The present state of the princes and republicks of Italy with observations on them / written originally in English by J. Gailhard ... Gailhard, J. (Jean) 1671 Approx. 304 KB of XML-encoded text transcribed from 136 1-bit group-IV TIFF page images. Text Creation Partnership, Ann Arbor, MI ; Oxford (UK) : 2004-05 (EEBO-TCP Phase 1). A41525 Wing G125 ESTC R40437 19320043 ocm 19320043 108607 This keyboarded and encoded edition of the work described above is co-owned by the institutions providing financial support to the Early English Books Online Text Creation Partnership. This Phase I text is available for reuse, according to the terms of Creative Commons 0 1.0 Universal . The text can be copied, modified, distributed and performed, even for commercial purposes, all without asking permission. Early English books online. (EEBO-TCP ; phase 1, no. A41525) Transcribed from: (Early English Books Online ; image set 108607) Images scanned from microfilm: (Early English books, 1641-1700 ; 1670:29) The present state of the princes and republicks of Italy with observations on them / written originally in English by J. Gailhard ... Gailhard, J. (Jean) The second edition corrected and enlarged [24], 240 p. Printed for John Starkey ..., London : 1671. "Licensed, Roger L'Estrange" --P. [24]. Pages 170 and 174 misnumbered as 136 and 474, respectively. Reproduction of original in the Bodleian Library. Created by converting TCP files to TEI P5 using tcp2tei.xsl, TEI @ Oxford. Re-processed by University of Nebraska-Lincoln and Northwestern, with changes to facilitate morpho-syntactic tagging. Gap elements of known extent have been transformed into placeholder characters or elements to simplify the filling in of gaps by user contributors. 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Copies of the texts have been issued variously as SGML (TCP schema; ASCII text with mnemonic sdata character entities); displayable XML (TCP schema; characters represented either as UTF-8 Unicode or text strings within braces); or lossless XML (TEI P5, characters represented either as UTF-8 Unicode or TEI g elements). Keying and markup guidelines are available at the Text Creation Partnership web site . eng Popes -- Election. Italy -- History -- 1559-1789. Italy -- Kings and rulers. Spain -- Social life and customs. 2003-12 TCP Assigned for keying and markup 2004-01 Apex CoVantage Keyed and coded from ProQuest page images 2004-02 Mona Logarbo Sampled and proofread 2004-02 Mona Logarbo Text and markup reviewed and edited 2004-04 pfs Batch review (QC) and XML conversion THE Present state OF THE PRINCES AND REPUBLICKS OF ITALY , VVith Observations on them . The Second Edition Corrected and Enlarged , with the mamnner of the Election of Popes , and a Character of SPAIN . Written Originally in English by J. GAILHARD , Gent. LONDON , Printed for John Starkey , at the Miter near Temple-Bar in Fleet-Street , 1671. To the Right Honourable , ROBERT , Earl of Sunderland , Baron Spencer of WORMLEIGHTON . My Lord. 'T Is usual with some when they publish any of their works , to pretend they were forced to it by the importunity of Friends , which is often true , and sometimes it is allowable ; but 't is no great modesty to boast of it upon every occasion . Others do prefix to their Books , to give them credit , the name of some considerable person ; this is well done , if the worth of the Piece be any wayes suitable to the qualifications of that Person ; else ( to speak in Solomons words ) it will be as a Jewel of Gold in a Swines snout . I hope , My Lord , I have at present in some measure hit upon that necessary proportion ; Your Lordship is in every account one of the most Eminent Noblemen of the Kingdome , and my Subject ( though I handle it with several defects and imperfections ) is of potent Princes and Republicks , a hard task indeed it is ; for when a private man is to speak of the persons and actions of Kings and Princes , specially of so many as I have occasion to mention , he walks upon the edge of Rocks and Precipices ; for of one side Princes are jealous of their Authority , and the people of their Liberty ; on the other , if he gives Monarchies such Commendations as that manner of Government deserves , he must be careful to say nothing to the disparagement of Republicks : Every one of these Governments is good in it's kind , yet not in every Countrey , only as it sutes the temper and constitution of the people ; but I cannot forbear to say , that Monarchy hath of all Governments most conformity to the pattern of all , or to the Empire which God hath over the World. 'T is not an easie matter to speak of a subject which hath been treated of by several others , however there are different wayes to do it , and new observations may produce new Notions . Sometimes one hath occasion to tell his opinion of things , and herein he is himself liable to the censure of thousands of different judgement and affections ; but as these things are unavoidable to those who appear in publick ; so they ought to be resolved to undergo any thing of that kind : the approbation of such persons as your Lordship , is that which writers should mind most of all , and use their utmost care to obtain . 'T is a known truth , and I declare it , My Lord , that your Natural parts , joyned to the experience you have gained by your travels , have fitted your Lordship to pass a judicious Sentence upon any thing that deserves it . I say nothing in this Relation , but what your Lordship hath more accurately by far , & more exactly observed : You have been , My Lord , upon the places highly esteemed by some Princes who knew your worth and quality , and where to my own knowledge ( if I may so say ) you omitted nothing that might conduce to the improvement of your self , as a person who by vertue of your Birth , Parts and Merits , will find no imployment in your Countrey too high for you , when some occasion shall be offered for your Prince to do you that favour and justice ; to the end , the Nation may have some benefit of that treasure of wisdome and Experience which is in you ; and I in particular the satisfaction to see your Lordship as great as you deserve ; which is the earnest desire of My Lord , Your Lordships most Humble and Devoted Servant , Gailhard . TO THE READER . WOnderfull and much to be admired is the goodnesse and wisdome of God , in that various distribution he hath made of his favours to Nations and Countries , for the benefit of humane Society , that men seeing every where some tokens of his goodnesse , after a serious reflection on the same , they should reduce all to that ultimate end , which is to give him Glory and Praises for it . Non omnis fert omnia tellus , So that one Country lies under a kind of necessity of keeping correspondency with another , either for necessary or for delightfull things , if not for the being , yet for the well-being ; for this end hath the Art of Navigation been discovered , Trade ( which makes Countries so flourishing ) settled , and all manner of correspondency kept between those who live at a distance . I do not deny but that it is convenient to have things brought home to us out of Forreign parts , without taking any pains , or running any hazzard , yet to have things right , we must go to fetch them upon the places where they are produced ; 't is best to have things at the first hand , and to have pure water , we must go to the spring , if it can conveniently be done , for it looses something of it's worth , either through the defect of the Vessell , or some other accident , if it be brought to us : We observe in Vegetables , if they be transplanted , after a while they degenerate , and loose part of their Vertue , the climate and the soyle are not so sutable to their nature as that wherein they grew ; no Balm was so good as that which was in Gilead ; that Vine-tree which in one place doth produce good Grapes , in another will yield nothing but wild Grapes . Experience also doth demonstrate this in sensitive Creatures , horses and dogs , when carried from their own climate , loose their good qualities , at the furthest at the second or third breed . This holds in rational creatures ; we know there are Nations which for the generality have quicker apprehension , and sharper wit than others , yet let a man remove from his Native Countrey , when he hath been any considerable while in another , his temper will be like that of those amongst whom he lives , imperceptibly such an alteration is wrought , so that he will grow dull and flegmatick if the climate bears it ; this may be caused by a constant conversation with people of that constitution ; by the very diet , for those aliments which are course , make gross and thick bloud , which doth not breed quick and lively spirits ; and a man by the change of Air , will find a great alteration in himself ; the breathing of a pure Air refreshes the Lungs , chears up the Heart , and upon a suddain inspires an inward joy , which can hardly be expressed : in this I speak after my own experience , I specially took notice of it when I came to Puzzuolo and Baya in Italy , neither was I alone to make that observation , which obliged me to think that there had been a particular reason of this nature , why some Roman Emperours , and others of the greatest persons amongst them , took such a delight to be there . 'T was in such places as this , and Tivoly , with the like , that Cicero , Virgil , and other eminent men for learning , composed the greatest part of those works which to this day we have amongst us . That which I have said of low and Mechanicall things , will hold in those of a more noble and higher nature . What Merchants do for their profit , Gentlemen ought to do for their honour ; the one brings riches into his Countrey , the other ought to bring good observations and maximes that may contribute to the good order and right Government of his Nation , if by his quality or abilities he comes to be called to havè a share in it . The great Law givers in Greece , sent into several parts of the world those who gathered for them the quintessence of those Laws which other nations enjoyed . The Romans in the times of the Decemvirs did the same , and others have followed their example ; 't is true , one must be very judicious and skilful in the application of the same ; for every Law doth not suite every Nation ; but I say , that mutatis mutandis , there is never a Monarchy , Aristocracy , or Democracy , but they may make an exchange of some of their Laws and Customes : Monarchy may afford Democracy some beneficial Statutes , so may well regulated Democracy to Monarchy ; for all governments , by what name soever distinguished , have or ought to have , but one and the same end , which is self preservation first , and then the promoting of publick good , every one in his station and calling , although these different governments use different means and waies to come to that end . Out of this I suppose 't will appear to any rational man how necessary and beneficial travelling is to the compleating of a Gentleman , if it be well directed and improved ; and as Nations are obliged to those Merchants , who through many and great hazzards do bring home the best of other Countries to inrich their own , certainly they must needs be much beholden to those Patriots , who have been at charges and pains to collect and bring them those wholesome counsels , by the right use of which they may secure themselves in the enjoyment of their plenty , riches and happiness , to the preventing of disturbances which might happen to arise against it : It ought therefore to be the endeavours , as it is the duty , of every one to fit himself as much as he can for the service of his King and Countrey . I said just now , how beneficial travelling is , if one hath good directions ; this lays an engagement upon me to say something to that effect for the satisfaction of those who stay at home , and for the instruction of them who go abroad ; not that I think my self wise enough to advise others ; only I say my naturall propensity joyned to that manner of life I have led hitherto , hath much inclined me to travel into most parts of Europe , wherein I have spent most of my time ; but whether this hath fitted me to give my opinion upon this subject , I am not to be the judge : however I dare say 't is difficult for a Gentleman , let him have never so good parts , to get any considerable benefit by his Travels upon his first going abroad , except he hath along with him the advice of one who knows Countries and fashions ; for the time allowed him to stay abroad is almost expired , before he can recover himself of the surprizal and astonishment which daily difficulties and inconveniences have cast him into : but when he is to act according to advice , and this advice is grounded upon knowledge and experience , he will find his task more easie , more pleasant and more profitable . And here I must say something in general of those who undertake to be such directors , which may well be applyed to all sorts of persons . God , whom men pray ( or ought to pray ) every day to give them their daily bread , hath commanded them to work for it , and he who doth not work , ought not to eat , as the Apostle saith . As the difference of faces , and the diversity of tempers in men do express the wisdome of God , so doth that variety of employments which he calls them to , according to their genius , inclination and abilities in some measure to perform their undertakings : Let every one abide in that whereunto he is called , saith St. Paul. ; so that men ought to follow it after they have imbraced it , either out of choice or by necessity , especially if besides the benefit they reap by it , they are any wayes usefull to others knowing we are born not so much for our selves , as for others ; and though a constant kind of employment be necessary for one , yet this doth not exclude the use of that capacity he may have to several sorts of calling , it being well for those who have many strings to their bow , that if one breaks the other may be useful . Men must ever be doing something , if it were for nothing else but to keep themselves from Idleness , which is the Mother of Vice. But to come to that kind of Employment which gives occasion to this discourse , 't is usually attended with great and many difficulties , besides the hazzards which one runs in forreign Countries ; for if dangers come often to men when they are at home , what will it be when they go as it were to meet with them , when almost every day they see men of all Nations , and of all sorts of tempers : certainly one must very much excercise his prudence in avoiding the perils he meets withall , and must have much courage to come off when they be unavoidable , but above all , an extraordinary protecting providence of God is absolutely necessary : yet there are more uncomfortable difficulties to struggle withal , than are the fore-expressed . The extravagancy of a young man , who will not be advised by a Governour , nor ruled by a Father ; this Governour is to please a Father who loves to spare , and a Son who delights to spend , a Father who would have him to learn and improve himself , and a Son who in his travels hath no other end but to take his pleasure ; and after he hath fenced a long while against the wild nature , the vicious inclination and unreasonableness of a Son , he is also exposed to the hardness and unthankfulness of Parents . I have wondred at many who take this charge upon themselves , and consider not whether they be qualified for it , when no honest man will undertake any thing , except he knows himself in some measure able to perform it : 'T is enough for them to know they shall thereby get a competent allowance , to run headlong upon any employment that lies in their way ; how can they expect in conscience or reason , that a young Gentleman can improve under their conduct , that his relations can have any satisfaction , or themselves get thereby any credit or reputation , if they have no capacity somewhat suitable to their undertakings ? for how can such a one be able to direct another how to benefit himself , and to travel in forreign parts , except he hath some knowledge of the language of the countrey , and fashions ? Every Nation hath some particular Vices and Virtues , the one to be avoided , and the other learned ; what these things are I must be told , and how can be that knows it not tell me of it ? this ignorance will make him contemptible to me , and he must learn it himselfe before he can teach it me ; so that for the whole time allowed to travel , he is onely a learner who should have been a Teacher . I am a bashful English man , I will learn confidence , and a handsome carriage in France , so riding the Great Horse , Fencing , Dancing , and other bodily Exercises which contribute to compleat a Gentleman , thence if I pass into Italy , that Air will fix the French Quick-silver , there I will learn Sobriety , Frugality , and to be circumspect in words and actions , so Musick Picture drawing , Architecture , &c. Yet I must have some knowledge of persons and places , of whom and where these things may be learned best of all ; I must know also how to benefit my self in going by , or staying at a place . 'T is not enough for a Gentleman to say , in such a City there is a stately Church , a fine Palace , and the ruines of a most antient Amphitheater ; this I confess ought to be taken notice of : but further , I must observe the quality of the Climate , and of the soyle , the Scituation of the Countrey , and ( if I understand Fortifications . ) the strength and the weakness of the Cities and Countries I go through , and take notice of the advantage or disadvantage of Rivers , Ways , and Grounds ; so I must be acquainted with their Manners , Forces , Riches , and wherein they consist , to see whether any thing out of it may be useful to my Countrey ; but above all I must observe their Government , and if it be possible their mysteries of State , so I must endeavour to know the persons and qualifications of Princes and Ministers of State , and any thing else that may be both for my own benefit , and the service of my Countrey ; so at length my travels having ripened my judgement , quickned my apprehension , and sharpned my wit , I shall not be unprofitable , nor of the number of those the Poet speaks of , Nos numerus sumus fruges consumere nati . This I do insist upon , not to boast of any abilities of my own , for I ingeniously confess my weakness in this , yet I profess a desire to learn it , though it was for no other end than to impart it to others , that with me they may reap some benefit of it ; this I say still , that another cannot teach me that which he knows not , but his knowledge , experience and practice of any thing enables him to infuse it into me ; and indeed 't is a fault I have accidently observed in some when they be in a strange Countrey , they keep company with none but the masters of their exercises , they ought indeed constantly to follow these exercises , but if they see no body else , at last they will learn to dance , to fence , &c. and nothing else ; they ought to make acquaintance with men of quality , and frequent their company ; of them a handsome carriage and good fashions are to be learned , they must also take care to finde themselves company for their honest pleasures , and lawful recreations ; but a hateful thing it is to see one brought up in a timorous and pendantical way , which makes a Gentleman unfit for any thing of concernment ; a Gentleman must be taught as to do no wrong , so to suffer no wrong as long as his honour is concerned in it , for he is not worthy to live who prefers his life to his honour ; not that imaginary honour as 't is conceived in these dayes , but that honour which is really so , not contrary to our duty to God , or obedience to Superiours ; therefore a great wisdome is required in the use of a bridle or of a spur to work upon youth , to infuse courage into them , so as not to make them rash , and so to curb them , as not to dishearten them . But I am carried further than I intended upon this subject , 't is time to speak directly to my present design ; I give thee Reader , the present state of the Princes , and Republicks of Italy : 'T is a worthy subject , if we consider their number , jealousies , and policy ; 't is certainly one of the most politick Nations of the world , and I doubt very much whether any other can compare to it . What I express is gotten not so much by reading , as by travelling upon the places , seeing and conversing for a competent time with those who were able to instruct me : some things also are of my own particular observation . In the following discourse , I do not speak of the Scituation , or of the boot-like shape of Italy , which any ordinary Mappe can shew ; to mention the quality of the Climate , or of the soyle of every part of that Garden of Europe , 't would prove tedious , and contrary to the narrow bounds I doe here prescribe my self . The manners of the Inhabitants , their outward form of Government , their Riches , Force and Religion , are matters for Historians ; hence it is that I do not insist upon Descriptions , however that which I thought fit to be known upon the matter in hand I express ; I think ( I know not whether I am mistaken ) that the variety I use in it will please thee , for in some parts I insist upon the person of the Prince , in others upon the manners of the Inhabitants , and in some others I briefly mention what is particular in their Government ; so that I have not a constant or affected method ; contrariwise I endeavour some time to conceal it : Upon every particular , I speak , either that onely which I thought necessary to be known , and so I passed by some things I could have told , or I speak according to the degree of knowledge I had of the thing ; and if amongst a thousand things unprofitable , there be but one useful , I will not grudge my time nor my pains . J. G. LICENSED ROGER L'ESTRANGE . THE Present STATE OF ITALY . THAT must needs be a Rare Countrey which is pleasant and plentiful , watered with many Rivers ; at the season adorned with Corn in the fields , and Grass in the Meddows , with delightful Land-skips , that in most parts hath a wholesome Air , that abounds in strong and stately Cities , where the eye is delighted with most sumptuous buildings , recreated with variety of Pictures and Statues , the ear pleased with as great a variety of harmonious musick as can be upon earth ; where the Palate is satisfied with the best fruits , and other delicacies , and the rarest Wines of Europe ; where in a certain season , the nose enjoyes the sweet smell of Orange and Jasmin flowers , which lay over head or under feet ; and at the same time , and in the same place to behold fine perspectives , and hear the murmur of several fountain waters : in a word , that Countrey which produces plenty , and variety to please all the Senses , and which hath the Alpes of one side for Walls , and the Sea on the other for bounds , must needs be an excellent Country ; such is Italy . The length of it , is a Thousand miles , or thereabouts ; beginning from Susa , a Town cited at the foot of the Alpes , at the coming into Piemont , and ending at Reggio , in the furthest parts of Calabri , in the Kingdom of Naples . As to the breadth , 't is more or less , according to the places , it being not full four hundred any where , nor less than sixteen . Parts of France and Savoy lay on the West of it , parts of Germany , namely , Tyrot and Swisserland on the North , and the Mediteranian Sea on the East and South , though for distinction , some call the one Jonian , and Adriatick ; and the other Tirrenean : most passages into Italy , are hard and difficult . The whole Country which we call Italy , is , by the Italians themselves , divided into Italy , the Kingdom , and Lombardy ; Italy comprehends the dominions of the Pope , of the grand Duke , and of Luca. Naples is that which they call the Kingdom , and Lombardy contains great part of the State of Venice , the Dukedoms of Milan , Mantua , Parma , Monferrat , Piemont , and the State of Genoa . But to make use of the ancient Division , and to descend to particulars ; I say , that in Italy some are great Princes , considering the Extend of their Dominions ; and others of an inferiour Orb , may be called petty Princes : The former sort come to the number of seven , and with the four Republicks , to eleven . The Pope , King of Spain , Dukes of Savoy , Tuscany , Mantoa , Parma , Modena ; for though some do reckon the Bishop of Trent , which stands between the Venetians and Tyrol , yet being a Prince of the Empire , having a perpetual alliance with the House of Austria , and often of the same Family , He may be taken for a German more than for an Italian Prince ; and seeing little can be said concerning him , we shall pass it by to come to the Republicks ; which are Venice , Genoa , Luca , and San Marino : For the order of precedency , Venice hath place after Spain , Genoa after Tuscany , though they pretend to be used as Crowned heads , being Masters of Corcica , formerly a Kingdom ; the other two Republicks take place after all the forenamed Princes , who also do not agree amongst themselves about Precedency ; Tuscany pretends it from Savoy , though he be much inferiour in antiquity , and extent of Dominions ; and Mantoa from Tuscany , neither will Modena yield it to some named before him . I should also say , that France having acquired Pignorolo , a door into Italy , and a strong place , from the Duke of Savoy , that King having an Interest in Italy , is to be reckoned amongst the Princes of it . The State of Rome . THE Pope hath great Dominions conveniently seated to disturb others , specially , Naples ; for all from Ostia , upon the Coasts of the Mediterranean Sea , to Loretto , Ancona , &c. is his : All the Lands together are called , Lo Stato Della Chiesa , in particular , old Latium , now Campagna Romana , il Patrimonio , di San Pietro , of which the chief City is Viterbo , part of ancient Tuscany , Terra Sabina , Umbria , ducato di spoletto , la Marca di Ancona , la Romagna , il ducato di Urbino , ducato di ferrara , Perugia , Orvieto , and Bolognese ; he is Soveraign of Naples , and Sicily , which he gives the investiture of , and receives homage for , as he doth for the Dukedoms of Parma and Piacenza , pretending the same over the Islands of Sardegna and Corcica : He is in possession of the Dukedom and City of Benevento in the Kingdom of Naples , and he pretends that in time of minority of the Kings of Spain , he hath right to Govern that Kingdom by a Legat : He also enjoyes the County of Avignon in France , and Ceneda within the state of Venice . These Countries , ( I mean those who are united together ) especially from Ancona to Ravenna and Ferrara all along the Coasts of the Gulfe of Venice , do afford good Souldiers , which upon case of an urging necessity may be gathered to about the number of 60000 , though 20000 foot and 3000 horse , as had Clement the 8th . in the War of Ferrara , were much to be kept on foot any long while : Urban the 8th . in the War of Parma had 30000 , but if the whole Countrey was in Armes , then 't would be upon 400000. The Pope indeed may be accounted , as he is really , a strong Prince , which strength consists in the extent of his Territories , in their Scituation , being all united , and there being no safe nor convenient places towards the Mediterranean , to make any landing ; and towards the Gulf they trust to the Venetians , who are to keep it clear ; upon which condition they are acknowledged to be the Lords of these Seas ; further all along the Coasts of the Mediterranean , and the whole Campagna Romana , there is a bad air , which would soon work upon any Army , either in Spring , Summer , or Autumn : This strength further consists in the temper of his Subjects and Soldiers , who are esteemed to be the best Foot in Italy : The Italian Proverb calls them , The best of Soldiers , but the worst of Subjects : so this strength consists in his strong holds , as Ferrara , Bologna , Fortezza Urbana , &c. in his Arsenals , or Magazeens of Arms ; the Vatican or St. Peter hath for 5000 men , in the Castle St. Angelo for 15000 , in Ancona for 10000 , in Ravenna for 5000 , in Ferrara 25000 , and Bologna for 10000 , and a new one a making at Tivoly , by the late Don Morto's Order , for 16000 men , with 80. pieces of Ordnance , where he employed continually above 300 men , so that they are spread up and down the Countrey to arme the People upon occasion to the number of 100000 men . Upon the Mediterranean he keeps five Gallies , which harbour in Civita Vecchia , they are not handsome , nor very good , but are well maned . But that which another way strengthens much the Pope , is , that Respect and Devotion which Popish Princes and States bear him , acknowledging him ( though falsly ) to be the Vicary of Christ , God on Earth , and the head of their Religion ; so that if a Prince had seized upon any of his Dominions , the Pope who had provoked him to make War being dead , it would be restored to the new Elected , all of them being perswaded , that it were a Sacriledge , to detain from that Church , that which did belong to it ; besides that every Prince of that Religion intending any such thing , would find it to be a hard work ; for the Pope hath ever an Army quartered upon their Land , which are that vast number of Secular Priests , and Regular Friars , who depend on the Pope upon several accounts , who having all sworn an Obedience to their Generals , who usually kept at Rome , they would act according to the Orders sent them from thence . So that having their Pulpits , Confessions , and Introduction into houses of all ranks , they could make strange worke ; Hence to me doth appear the happiness of those Princes , who having shaken off that Roman yoke , and turned out those Emissaries , are freed of those dangers , which those of that Religion are exposed to , though often they are liable to their private attempts . Another politick strength of Popes , consists in the Colledge of Cardinals , who are most of them chosen , either to gratifie Princes , or who depend upon Princes , ( without whose knowledge Princes hardly resolve any thing of importance about Popes ) or else are Relations to Princes ; and it is certain , when these Princes interests come to be in competition with the Pope's and Churches , this last swayes with them above all , because every one of these Cardinals is not without hope of being chosen Pope one time or other . Now I say , that Popes , as they are Temporal Princes , though they be Elective , ought to have that respect which deserveth the character which God hath set upon the forehead of Soveraigns ; but as he is a Tyrant over the Church , and an Usurper over the Heritage of the Lord ; all good Christians and reasonable men ought to abhor him , not his person , but that Tyranny , Usurpation , and unlawful Actions of his . I said , that 25000 or 30000 men , is a great number to be kept on foot by Popes any long while ; not for want of monies , for as Sixtus Quartus used to say , The Church can never want money in her purse , as long as the Pope doth hold a pen in his hand . Indeed , besides the ordinary income to the Camera , for the occasions of the Church ( so they call that State ) the Office of the Diataria , brings to Popes for their own use , exceeding great Treasures out of all parts , which own his Religion ; besides the private wayes they have to get monies , of which I shall speak ; some reckon that Popes have 6000 l. sterling a day , besides the casual incomes , which are very great : every time a Legat a Latere is sent abroad , he is allowed 250 l. sterling a day : for proof of this vast Revenues , Sixtus the 5th , who Reigned but five years of a poor Countrey Family Peretti , yet he builded the Palace of St. John of Lateran , began that of Monte-Cavallo , fortified Civita Vecchia , built many Colledges , made chargeable Aqueducts ; did many other costly works and reparations , wherein 't is thought he spent a matter of 15 Millions of Crowns , or upon 4 Millions of English pounds , and left f●ve Millions of Crowns in the Castle of St. Angelo , and did not charge his people with heavy Taxes ; and then the Popes had not the Dukedom of Urbino , nor that of Ferrara , and in a time that Reformation was carried on in a great measure in these three Kingdoms , France , Holland , Switzerland , Germany , Sweden , Denmark , and other parts of the North. And Paul the 5th . who indeed Reigned longer , left to the Prince of Salmona , one of his Nephews , 1000 Crowns a day , besides what he gave to several others of his Relations . And Gregory the 15th . of the family of Ludovisio , reigned only one year and a 11 moneths , and left to his Family 250000 crowns a year , or 62000 and 500 l. besides . Thus as Popes are temporal Princes , so they lay Taxes upon their Subjects , and heavy ones too . The late Popes , since his falling out with France , within the space of two years , laid Gables or Taxes upon 16 sorts of Commodities , which were free before : So 't was done upon the Soldiers , kept within the State , for every common Soldier was Taxed one Crown of his yearly pay , which came to between 5 and 6000 crowns , according to their number ; and the whole people in the City and Country were exceedingly oppressed : The selling of Offices is now a setled custom in the Court of Rome , which is very beneficial to Popes : I shall give but an instance of the Camera Apostolica , or the Apostolick Chamber ; the places of the Treasurer General , and of the Auditor , are sold for 80000 crowns a piece . There are Twelve places of Chierici , Clarks worth 42000 a piece ; the Presidents is 30000 , and so of others : the two forenamed Offices are the next step to the Cardinal ; so that if the Pope will have 160000 Crowns he makes Cardinals those who have them , and from others he finds ready money for the places . And what shall we say to that vast Treasure of Loretto , which is inesteemable : every week , nay , almost every day , one gift or other is brought to it from Kings , Queens , Princes , and other great Persons , Cities , and particular men ; they have whole Chambers full of Gold and Silver plate ; but this is nothing to that vast number of Diamonds , and other precious stones , which they keep in a place made a purpose : in the Castle of St. Angelo , are ever 5 millions of Gold , and one and a half in Jewels . Were it not for want of exercise of the Protestant Religion , Rome is as fit a place to lead a quiet and a contented life , as any is in the world , a man may live there as he pleases ; and no body meddle with him ; offend no body , and no body will offend you ; and though the inquisition be there , strangers are not troubled with it , except they speak against their Religion , which it were a great imprudence to do ; 't were a madness for a man to go tell the Pope he is Antichrist , this were to tempt God , and contrary to the wisdom of the Serpent , which is commanded us . 'T is an old and common saying ; Cum fueris Romae , Romano vivito more , &c. A stranger and a Traveller must be all eyes , and all ears , but hardly any tongue at all , he must hear , he must see , and hold his peace . I say , at Rome there is a very great liberty ; if a Protestant pleases , all Lent he may eat flesh , by the means of a License , which he may get for two shillings ; You are not obliged to go to Mass , to Confession , nor to any of their Superstitious wayes . One thing there is , which a stranger may do to satisfie his curiosity , which is , to go to their Stationi , as they call it , that is , their Devotions to certain Churches , which happens in one or other every week , where is a great concourse of people of all sorts , and constantly excellent good musick ; so every Saturday at the Cardinal Padrone's , the Popes Nephew , lodging at Monte-Cavallo , all men of good fashion use to meet , to tell and hear news ; so one day or other in the week , people use to meet at the Pallace of the Preferto of the Church , which is either the Popes Brother or Nephew . So at Monte-Cavallo , the Popes Palace ; when the Consistory of Cardinals is kept . So one may have the company one time or other of their Academists or Virtuosi , which in Rome are of three sorts , Humoristi , Lincei , Eantastici . One thing more is , to follow the Corteggio of some Cardinal and Ambassadour first for Protection ; for if any mischance should befall a man , when 't is known such a Gentleman is of the Corteggio of such a Cardinal , he is respected , and no harm done to him without the leave of such a Protecture , into whose house one may fly for sanctuary . Secondly , going with them ( after the warning you have of it at your lodging ) when they receive or make visits , or go to their audience , one may see their formalities and Ceremonies which are very great ; they never visit one another but they send before , one to know whether such a one be disposed to receive the visit of another at such an hour , and as Italians , give high names to things ; they call this Ambassage . Further , they receive not at the same time visits from two persons ; it must be known also , whether such a person intends to come Incognito , or whether he will be known , which only consists in the putting on or off of a superfluous garment , and the Loops which are about the Horses heads , which are of gold , if the Cardinal be a Prince , a Roman Baron , or of the Family of a Duke and Peer of France , or other Kingdoms ; so that according as they come , they are received nearer the Stairs , and with more Ceremonies , for every step they are to make is regulated , and they would not go an inch further ; so that all that passes between them , is more belle parole then realities ; I say , belle parole , not onely because they be Complements , but also they are accurate expressions , well pronounced , according to their proverb , Lingua Toscana in bocca Romana . One thing I must needs observe of their civility to strangers who are of their own Corteggio , that although they know them to be Protestants , yet they never trouble them with any discourse of Religion . 'T is certain , that this Court is as politick as any in the world , and where by a reflection you may know all what passes in Europe : for no Prince in the world hath better intelligencies then the ' Pope , who hath Legates or Nuncio's in most Courts , and spies every where . Cardinals do receive their Letters from the Courts of the Princes whose interests they own ; and the general of every Regular Order being usually at Rome , and receiving a constant weekly intelligence out of all those parts where are any of his Order ; and sometimes from the Confessors to Kings , Queens , and other high persons , do signifie what things they hear , to the Pope . One may judge of this by what they do at home ; that which is to be admired at Rome , is that exceeding great number of spies under pay , which are there up and down in all houses , publick places , and at every corner , the Pope hath his ; every Cardinal , and Princes ( I put them before , for they take place of them ) have theirs ; one Cardinal and Prince will have his spie in the house of another , though some of them go like gentlemen of good fashion ; and others who are of a higher form keep their Coaches ; some of them have keys to come in at any hour by the back door to the persons whose spies they are . Some as Staffieri , or Footmen , serve strangers ; others are Masters of Excercises , nay , several Cortegiane or Prostitute women are under pay ; so that by these means , no particular business comes to pass , but 't is presently known . One day I had occasion to enquire for a mean person about an ordinary business , very far from my lodging , and from that of a third person concerned in 't , in a corner of a street , one that was with me inquiring for such a one , in came to us an unknown man , who stood by , I admired to hear him say , what , you look for him about such a thing , he is gone to such a place : Every one of their great men who know this custome , do suspect every new servant they take . I have been told by a person who stood by , that the late Duke Cezarini , sent one day for a Notaro ( or one of those Scriveners , who kept the List of some spies ) whom he trusted , and haveing shewed him the names of all his Domesticks , how doth it go said he ? the other answered , well ; then said he , 't is a wonder , I am here the only man ; this Language is obscure , but he who stood by , knew the meaning of it . As to strangers , none come to Rome , but 't is presently known who it is , whence he comes , what company he frequents , and the like . Not long since I hapned to be at Rome , at the same time that there was a considerable number of English-men ; the late Pope told an English Priest , and an English Gentleman , who being a Papist , went thither for Devotion sake , That he wondered , that some of the English men that were then in town , did not come to his Palace upon the dayes he gave Audience , though it was but for curiosity ; but said he , I know they are so taken up to drink , that they have no time to spare : He was well informed , yet this did not proceed from any contempt he had for the Nation ; contrariwise he used to speak with respect of England , calling it the Land of Wonders : though this may be ambiguous , yet I believe he took it in a good sence , and he hath expressed the desire he had to have come to see it when he was Nuncio in Germany , if he could have done it with safety . In Rome are to be seen several ancient and modern Curiosities ; there are particular guides for antiquities , the modern do consist in Churches , Palaces , Houses of Pleasure , called Villa , where you may see the utmost of Art in Architecture , Pictures , Statues , Gardens , Water-works ; so there are Libraries , as that of the Vatican , enriched with a number of Excellent Books , and rare Manuscripts in several tongues , and increased with the ruines of that of Heildelberg , and with that of Urbino : this Library can be compared to none but that of Oxford , yet with some difference : there are also private Libraries and Cabinets , of all , which as of the curiosities of Tivoly and Frescati , places 12. and 18. miles from the City , there are exact relations in their Language , so that it were needless for me to name or to describe any . Therefore I come to speak how Popes stand affected to their Neighbours ; some grounds of this might have been laid formerly , when the Apostolick Chamber had the direction of affairs : but since Popes are come to be so absolute , that the Chamber must do almost all what they please , now their interest , natural in●●ination , fancy or Capricio , as they call it ; and sometimes the suggestions of a Kinsman and favourite , such as was Don Mario , though 't was a woman , as Don Olympia , are the rule of it . Some Popes have had fallings out with the Venetians , as had Paul the 5th . concerning Ecclesiastical Jurisdiction , and other things ; Clement the 8th . with the Dukes of Modena about Ferrara ; Urban the 8th . with the Duke of Parma about Castro ; and so of late Cardinal Franciotti , Bishop of Luca , was like to be the occasion of a great falling out between the Pope and that Republick . Urban the 8th . was a great friend to France , but not to Spain , nor to the Grand Duke . Innocent the 10th . the half of his Reign was for Spain , and then he turned to the French ; and the late Alexander 7th . was all along an enemy to France , chiefly upon the account of Mazarini , whom he hated with all his heart ; but the present Pope carries himself even between all , although before his Election he were suspected to be partial for Spain , but upon no sollid grounds ; for those who pretend to the Popedome stand neutrals , and declare themselves of no party The maximes of Pope's are different , according to their interest and temper ; so that this being an Elective Dignity , no general rule but this can be given , that all endeavour to raise their Families to Honour and Riches ; however their Raggioni di Stato are , to hinder Naples from falling into the Emperours hands : for Clement the 7th . made penance for the fault which Leon the 10th . had committed to favour Charles the 5th . A second maxime is , still to give hopes of being promoted , to the dignity of a Cardinal to those potent Prelates that are at Rome , and elsewhere , to keep them in dependency , and from discontents and disturbances . Another is to confine the number of Cardinals to 70. which was an invention of Sixtus Quintus , to avoid the importunities of several Princes , who solicited him to confer that dignity upon some whom he would not bring into the Colledge . Of the same nature as this is , another Arcano di Stato , concerning the Examen of Bishops , which was ordered by Clement the 8th . to stop the designes of Princes , who intended to promote to Prelacy many of their Creatures : for then they had been ashamed to present those who had no learning , nor other qualifications fit for the place . A further secret of state is , that of the Bull of Residency , whereby Bishops are obliged to reside in their Bishopricks ; by the means of this , Popes do remove from their Court those Cardinals and others whom they dislike : By these means Urban the 8th . kept out of Rome Cardinal Borgia , and others of the Spanish Faction , who spoke too boldly to him : So did Alexander the 7th . keep away Cardinal Rossetti , who stifly opposed his Election . A further maxime of theirs is , to refer to Congregations , the demands of Princes about Ecclesiastical Laws , Jurisdiction , and other things which Popes are not willing to grant , for so they lay the denial upon others . Another Raggioni di Stato , is , that Cardinals may not go out of the state of the Church without leave from the Pope , for so they prevent those Counsels and Assemblies before the which formerly they have at several times been summoned to appear . Further , as former Popes have humbled and brought down those noble and potent Families that were in Rome , which had given a great deal of trouble to their Predecessors ; so at present Popes keep them low ; by which means , they have so degenerated , that instead of those great and brave Captains , now out of these Families come out idle , vicious , and effeminate persons . Lastly , t is a very politick maxime of Popes , to send their Legate to Princes , to pacifie the quarrels arising between them , although they know 't will effect nothing at all ; and that sometimes 't is their interest that such quarrels should last , for hereby they shew themselves to be zealous of the publick good and peace ; and thus they maintain themselves the Arbiters of Princes . The Cardinals Nephews have also their particular maximes , namely to keep from preferment , and to remove from the Pope's person those whom they do not affect : on the contrary , to raise to dignities , and to procure places of trust to their friends and creatures . Publick Ministers at that Court know so well the jealousie of Nephews , who will have nothing communicated to Popes , but by their means , that usually they impart first to them , that which they are to speak of to the Pope , and commonly they give them an account of what answer they had , taking Cardinal Padrons lodging from the Popes in their way homewards . A policy of the Cardinals , who are contrary to the Court , is to get some Eminent one disaffected as they are , to be their Head ; and now 't is a custome passed as it were into a Law , to choose none but Italians to be Popes . Before the late Election , the Colledge of Cardinals was divided into the Ghigian party , which were all the creatures or friends of Alexander the 7th . six of them are of Siena , the City he was born in , the Squadra volante , the flying Squadron composed of the creatures of Innocent the 10th who having left no Cardinal of his Name or Family , Cardinal Imperiale was look't upon as the Head of them , and most part of these were brought in to this present Pope by Azzolino , one of their chief members ; but the 3d. party was that of Barbirini Francesco the Dean of the Colledge being the head , and several of Urbans Creatures the members with some others , who being poor , received pensions from Francesco ; now a fourth part is rising , which is that of the present Pope . Before I leave this subject , I must say something of him ; He is called Clemene the 9th . which name he took , as he assured the Princess of Rossano , out of respect he doth bear to the memory of Clement the 8th . Aldobrandin ; his name is Giulio Rospigliosi of Pistoia , an indifferent good City , about 20 miles from Florence , and in the Grand Dukes Dominions . This man was chosen the last year , in the 71. of his Age ; he was employed as Nuncio in Spain , and then by the late Pope was chosen Secretary of State ; he had a very sore fit of sickness a little while afore the Pope died ; he was once given over by Physicians , and when he came to recover , and before the Popes death , he had thoughts to leave his place . He is a man of a middle stature , and very gray ; being a Cardinal , he was accounted a wise Statesman , and of great parts ; I say he was , for I cannot tell whether he doth or will continue so , for often have we seen in that place that Honours have changed manners ; as it was well observed of the late Pope Alexander , of whom it was said , as of Galba , He had been worthy of Reigning , if he had not Reigned ; Dignus Imperio , sinon imperasset ; and of all other sayings , this most of all was fastned upon him ; he was maximus in minimis , and minimus in maximis . This Pope , since his Election to that Dignity , hath made a judicious Creation of Cardinals ; he hath chosen his own Nephew to express his affection to him ; the late Pope's Nephew , Don Sigismond , to express his thankfulness for the Obligations he had to that Family ; and herein he hath given an example contrary to that so much blamed of Innocent the 10th . who did so bitterly persecute the Relations of his Predecessor . The third Cardinal Created , is Leopold , of the family Medici : Thus he hath repaired the fault of Alexander , acknowledged the kindness he received from the Grand Duke in the late conclave , and shews that he remembers he hath been his Subject : Further , this Pope hath done two things contrary to the practices of his Predecessor , who , at the beginning , would own none of his Relations , nor have them about his person , or raise them to preferments , till he seemed to be forced to it by the earnest solicitations , and constant importunities of Cardinals , and publick Ministers ; yet it is well known how indulgent to them he hath been all along ; therefore , said the Romans , Alexander was as good as his word , that he would not receive his Relations at Rome , for he went to do it at Castle Gandolfo , a house of pleasure 12. miles from it : but the present Pope sent for his immediately after his Election , and would make no new Creation ( as they call it ) of Cardinals , nor distribute several favours till his Nephew was come back to Rome , that others might have to him the Obligation of it : The other thing he hath done is , that he hath suppressed in part those heavy Taxes which his Predecessour , or Don Mario , hath laid on the people ; this hath much gotten him the love of his Subjects . Should I now go about to give a character of Don Camillo his Brother , his Nephews , and other Relations , it would be too much like a relation , therefore I forbear it ; and indeed I have been so long upon this particular , that I must be shorter in what follows . In Rome are still some Noble and Ancient Families , as Colonna , which do possess three Principalities , Ursini hath two more . Savelli , whereof the chief is perpetual Marshal of the Church , and Prince of La Rizza , bought by the late Pope , and of Albano . Muti , Duke of that name , and Prince of Rignano , Cezarini , Prince of Jansano and Ardea . Conti , of which is the present Duke Pauli . Caetanis of which is the Prince of Caserta , Son to the Duke of Sermonetta . Frangipani , which is extinct , for the late Marquess left out one Daughter , who hath been married to one of the name , who lives in Hungary . The others are Bentivogli , Baglioni , Peppuli , Vitelli , &c. The new Families , to begin with that which now Rules , are , Rospigliosi , Ghigi , Pansilio , Barberini , Ludovisio , Borghese , Altemps , Cezi , Farneze , Aldobrandini , Buoncompagnio , &c. raised by Popes of th●ir family , as now Rospigliosi of Clement the 9th . Ghigi of Alexander the 7th &c. Matthei also , and Lanti both Dukes in Rome , are both of good Famiies . But now Clement the 9th . is dead , after somewhat above two years Reign ; he was old and weak , but the loss of Candia , hath probably hastened his death : his Relations had no time to rise very high , and they must leave the place to his kinsman , who is now to be chosen Pope : about whose Election the Conclave is now much divided ; the Factions being great and stiff , every one driving on her Interest and advantage . The Cardinals amongst themselves being divided into four parties , because they are all the creatures of so many Popes , Urban the 8th . Innocent the 10th . Alexander the 7th . and Clement the 9th . besides the Grand Dukes Interest is great in the Conclave : the Spanish is considerable in number , by reason of many of his Subjects in 't ; but as Cardinals mind themselves more than the Crowns ; and as Spain is not mony'd , very probably many will fall off : on the other side , the French having some of the best head-pieces in the Conclave , and ready monys , will go very far ; and because the last time they were disappointed , and could not raise Farnese to the Popedome , they will strive very hard for it . The Emperour , and King of Poland have also their Parties among the Cardinals , but not considerable in themselves , only they may joyn with others . These Princes , as the French and Spanish Crowns Interests , are managed by those Cardinals who are their Protectors , and the Ambassadours who are at Rome : of late the Crown of Portugal is also come in . There are also those Cardinals called Neutrals , of those , who pretending to the Popedome , declare themselves ( at least , not openly ) for no party . Cardinals first of all were called Roman Priests , sent by Popes , to Preach and do other offices in the Churches , who owned their Authorities : There were but six upon their first Institution . Calpurnius Poncinus , in the year 231. raised their number to 10 , so by degrees they were 70. but as Popes may alter the orders of their Predecessors , so they have lessened , or increased this number . They were very inferiour in dignity to Bishops , to whom , and to the people the Election belonged formerly ; but Innocent the 2d . gave it wholly , and only to Cardinals , in the year 1135. yet left it at their liberty to choose one of their number , or another Prelate . But in the year 1464. Paul the 2d . ordered that none but a Cardinal should be chosen Pope . Innocent the 4th . was the man , who in the year , 1242. altered the precedency between Bishops and Cardinals , to the advantage of the last : the same gave them the red Hat : Bonifacius the 9th . the Habite : and Paul the 2d . the Cap of Scarlet : to shew , ( as they say ) how ready they are to shed their blood for the Service of the Church ; though I think , that this colour and Purple which they use too , are to set forth their Pomp and Magnificence . These Cardinals are chosen by the Pope , according to his intimation , and some few upon the commendation of the Emperour , and the King of France , Spain , and Poland , out of the German , French , &c. Nations ; according to the choice of those Princes , who have liberty to commend , one two , or three , of what Nation they please : All these Cardinals are divided into three Orders , six Bishops , 50 Priests , fourteen Deacons : every one of them takes place of all Embassadours whatsoever , and pretend the hand from all Princes , except Crowned Heads . Thus much I thought fit to speak of Cardinals , especially now upon the occasion of the Sede vacante , for they are met to make a new Election , of which 't is necessary to say something . The Pope being dead , Nine days are employed towards his Funeral , and other formalities depending thereupon : On the ninth day after , Mass is said , a speech is made in commendation of the deceased , the Cardinal Padrone , that is Master , ( a Title introduced by Paul the 5th . but fully confirmed by Urban the 8th . ) who is a nigh relation of the late Pope , acqaints all Cardinals abroad with his ●eath , who thereupon make all possible haste to come to Rome . On the 10th day after the Popes death all the Cardinals who are able , meet at St. Peters Church , where the Mass of the Holy Ghost , as they call it , is sung by the Dean of Cardinals , he who is of a longest standing , or the next to him , if he be not well ; there is also made a speech upon the subject of the Election of a new Pope , with a great concourse of people to hear it ; after this , all the Cardinals go in a Procession towards the Conclave , following a Priest who carries the Cross , the Musicians singing their Veni Creator Spiritus . This Conclave is a place in the Vatican near St. Peters Church , all made a new by order of the Cardinal Chamberlain , or Chamerlengho , all of wood , which after the Election , is disposed of by the said Chamberlain , where a small Lodging is made for every Cardinal , and every one hath his by lot . The Cardinals , some Prelates , and Volaries go in then , whereof one reads with a loud voice the Bulls concerning the Election of Popes , which being done , all Cardinals take an oath to observe what is therein contained , in the hands of the Dean , and of Prince Savelli , who upon this action hath leave to enter into the Conclave , of which he is keeper , and perpetual Marshal of the Church , for himself , and successors : After this Ceremony every one goes to his dinner , and hitherto the doors are shut up , but after dinner all Ambassadors and Roman Princes have liberty to go in , and for the space of four or five hours they treat and negotiate with Cardinals , within their private Lodgings , which time being past , they ring a little bell , whereupon every one is to go away , excepting the Cardinals , and the Deputies or Deputati of the Conclave , to wit , two servants are allowed to every Cardinal , who chooses whom he likes , the old and weak ones are allowed three ; for publick use , are one Sagrista , and Oschaltarra ; and Solo Sagrista , who take care of things relating to their Devotions , and belonging to the Altar ; five Masters of Ceremonies , the Secre●ary of the Conclave , a Confessor , two Physicians , an Apothecary , and two to help him ; a Surgeon , two Barbers , two Masons , two Carpenters , and sixteen Porters . Assoon as all others are gone , and these are within , the Conclave is walled in and out , after which , the Cardinals , Dean , and Chamberlain , go about it to see whether it be well : it hath formerly been ordered by some Popes , that after this , no Cardinal should be admitted , but 't is not strictly observed , if they come soon after , and if the Election is like not to be ended so soon : Before they are shut up , orders are issued by them , for the peace and quiet Government of the City , it being very necessary so to do , upon such a conjuncture , to prevent great and many mischiefs ; now all that time the City Officers have a great power , so that if a Malefactor be taken , he is soon made away . 'T is not usual with the Cardinals to discharge the Officers entrusted by the late Pope , but 't is necessary they should be confirmed by them . Within the Conclave , is kept an exact Guard , under the Command of the High Marshal ; first at the Ruota , seven in number , which are some holes left unwalled , to take in the Victuals which are brought in to every Cardinal ; These Ruota's are used at Rome , in every Monastery and Nunnery ; the use whereof is to receive what things are brought from without , and given from within : For at the inside of the Wall are some few boards joyned together , of five or six foot high , and three or thereabouts in breadth , some more , some less ; but being all of an equal bigness ; and this is so suspended , that it turns about like a wheel , which in Italian is called Ruota ; 't is hollow within , so that it is capacious of receiving great dishes , baskets , and some can hold a child of twelve yeares old ; Then upon the Staires in the Courts , and at all passages , Guards also are set with four great corps de guard in the great place before St. Peters Church ; every time dinner is sent in to a Cardinal , 't is attended by some of his servants , and a Mace-bearer , with a Silver Mace , with the Cloth and other things used at Table ; this is done twice a day , and besides the Soldiers , four Prelates stand at every Ruota , to search strictly every thing which is sent in , the very bread is all cut in small pieces for fear their should be any bills in 't , and those four Prelates are changed every day by the Marshal , to whom these bills shall be given , in case any be intercepted , which he will keep till the Election be over ; but this is searched , not only without , but also within , by the Masters of Ceremonies ; who have taken an oath of fidelity , and after the meat is in , these ruota's are sealed with paper , both at the in and out-sides : at every one of these holes , twelve Soldiers are of Guard in the day , and twenty five in the night time . Every Cadinal eats and drinks alone with his domesticks , and all their victuals are dressed by order of the Martial , but the Church pays for 't , and one buyeth as much as the other ; there is also an allowance for others , who are shut up , some more or less according to their quality , but usually the Cardinals servants have the rest of their Masters , and the Guards every where are mounted every day according to the Marshals order , who also according to the Bulls doth lessen the victuals of Cardinals , when ten days are over , since they , being shut up , in case the Election be not made , and this is to force them to hasten it , and to come to an agreement about it ; which to effect , once a day they meet at the Chappel of the Conclave , and he who at last is chosen , ought to have two parts of three of the Votes , so that if of sixty he had but thirty nine , it would not be a right Election . The Cardinal Dean , hath the command of Cardinals , as the Camerlengo of others who are shut up , and and at last they must agree about him who is to be chosen , and all this while , all within the Conclave are ignorant of what passes in the City . Assoon as 't is known within the Conclave who is the Pope , the Cardinal Decano desireth him to approve of the choice which the Colledge hath made of him , which he consents to , and takes what name he likes , as Innocent , Clement , Alexander , or the like : then standing between the two chief Cardinals , he is led behind the Altar , where they take off his Cardinals clothes , and give him the habit of a Pope ; immediately after is sung the Te Deum : then all the Cardinals one after another , falling upon their knees , do ( to use their words ) adore him , kissing his foot , then the right hand , and then he gives them osculum pacis , upon both cheeks , so they give him signs of submission , which is meant by kissing of the feet , they expect from him Protection , in kissing his hand , and they receive from him a sign of affection , being kissed on the lips or cheeks . These things being performed , one of the Masters of Ceremonies , takes the Cross , and carries it before him , whilst the Ecce Sacerdos Magnus is sung , and they go towards the Balcone which looks upon the great place before St. Peters Church , called La loggia della benedictione ; and the Masons beat down the Wall of partition , and there the Pope being between two Cardinals , they shew him to the People , who stand below in the great Place , one of the Cardinals with a loud voice pronouncing these Latin words , Annuntio vobis gaudium magnum , habemus Papam Eminentissimum & reverendissimum N. N. qui sibi nomen imposuit , N. N. Hereupon , the People cries out , God save the new Pope , God bless the Family , N. N. and at the same time , one can hear the Artillerie of the Castel San. Angela go off , there being constantly some to observe the pulling down of the Wall ; then all the Soldiers give their Vollies ; the Drums beat , the Trumpets sound , and all the Bells in town ring . Assoon as the people hear who is chosen , they run to his Palace and Plunder it , it being the custom so to do ; but those Cardinals who are likely to be chosen before they go to the Conclave , have removed the best things they have . The Ceremony at the window of the Balcone being ended , all the Cardinals wait upon the new Pope to his Palace in the Vatican , whence every one goes home : in the mean time , the Pope receives no publick visits , only private ones from his relations , if they be at Rome , and those who have been his friends in the Conclave , who come to receive the effects of the promises he made to them to get their assistance , for usually they engage upon such conditions of interest and preferment : about a fortnight's time is allowed to prepare things , in order of his being carried in a Chair on mens shoulders to St. Peters Church , to take possession of the Popedom , which is done with much pompe and magnificence ; and about a fortnight after he goes in a Cavalcata to do the same at the Church of St. John of Lateran : but from the first day of his Election , he begins to give his Orders about the Goverment of all his Dominions . 'T is usual with every Pope to take an Oath before the Cardinals , about several things , the chief whereof are , 1. To labour to keep peace between all Christian Princes . 2ly . They will promote to the dignity of Cardinals , none but those who are worthy of it . 3ly . To call to an account all the Officers of the State , of the Church , when their time is expired . 4ly . They will not make two Brothers Cardinals , which was the Decree of Julius the Second . 5ly . Not to alienate any thing belonging to the Church , which things all the World knows how well they are observed , but if Popes may ( as they think ) dispence others from their oathes , why not themselves too ? so that after this Principle of the Popes Infallibility , men who believe it , must not complain against him , for if he be infallible , he can do nothing amiss ; these were the words of the late Duke Cezarini to two Jesuits , who complained to him , that the Pope Alexander the 7th . had perswaded Father Oliva their General , to fell to him land for 100000 Crowns . I thought it would not be amiss to mention so much about the Election of a Pope , it being seasonable now , in the time of a Conclave , for those who have a mind to be informed of their wayes about it , for as to many other practices of that Court , I wholly wave it off , as are their Formalities in visits , their change of cloths , creation of Cardinals , and things depending therefrom ; of their Jubilees , Indulgences , Blessing ofSwords , Agnus Dei's , and Roses , Cavalcataes , and Processions , Washing of the Feet , Beatification , Canonization , and so many other things which we account to be vain or Superstitious . I judge it unnecessary to mention the order setled in the Popes Court and Family , but withal think it not amiss to say few words about their great Courts and Offices , which I will only mention , they being not material for any Protestant State who have nothing to do there , by way of Publick Ministers . All businesses there are managed by certain Councels or Commitees , which they call Congregationi , to the number of sixteen . The First , is that Del Sant Officio , or Inquisition , which as all the rest hath a Secretary , by whom are given all dispatches , which he seals also with the seal of the Cardinal , who is the President of it ; in it are treated Matters of Religion , conducing to what they call Heresie , Prophanation , Blasphemy , &c. This ever is Governed by the Dominicans , and meets three times a week , on Monday at the Palace del sant Officio , on Wednesday , at the Dominicans Church , called , La Minerva ; and the Thursday , before the Pope . The 2d . is that which takes cognizance of affaires concerning Bishops and Regular Priests , or other of their Diocess's , of this , as of all the rest a Cardinal is the Head ; into it enter 24 Cardinals , which is the greatest number of any , yet never under six in any other ; whensoever Friars have any falling out with Bishops , they presently threaten to bring them before this Congregation , which meets every Friday in the House of the Cardinal , President of it . The 3d. is del concilio , the jurisdiction of which , is to give interpretation to the Text of the Council of Trent , it meets every Sunday in the House of the Cardinal President of it , or a Thursday if he hath a mind to it . The 4th . is della immunita Ecclesiastica , instituted by Urban the 8th . to judge of Ecclesiastical Priviledges , which is kept every Thursday , at one of the Popes Palaces , a Cardinal being the Head of it , for which the Camera allowes him 1000 Crowns a year . The 5th . is di stato , which handles matters of State ; all the Cardinals , who have been Nuncios and Ambassadours , come in to it , and the Secretary of State : there is no prefixed day , but it depends upon the pleasure of the Pope , or his Nephew Cardinal , in whose presence it meets . The 6th . is de propaganda fide instituted by Gregory the 15th . it consults about all manner of wayes , how to promote the Roman Faith throughout all parts of the World ; all their Emissaries depend upon this , so that what Jesuits and Priests soever we have here , have their mission from this Congregation , whereof Cardinal Francesco Barberini is President ▪ it meets usually once a moneth upon a Munday , either in the presence of the Pope , or in the Colledge called de propaganda fide , which is , in Piazza d' Ispagna . The 7th . is de' Riti which judges of all differences about Ceremonies , Formalities , Places , Canonizations , &c. it sits once a month , and more if needs be , in the House of the Cardinal President of it ; who is ever the Senior of the Deputies , who is to summon it , as do all other Cardinals , Presidents of other Congregations . The 8th . is del acqua wherein are treated Matters concerning Rivers , Channels , Bridges , and the like ; there is no certain day to meet , but when occasion requires it , the Cardinal who is the Head of it , sends out his summons about it . The 9th . is ; delle Strade , whereof the Camerlengo is the chief , all things relating to the necessaries and ornament of Streets , is treated of in 't , under its jurisdiction are matters of Aqueducts and Fountains ; the distribution , whereof is made by this Congregation as they think fit and convenient : and meet only upon occasion . The 10th . is della consulta per governo , dello stato di S. chiesa , is of a great concernment , it takes cognizance of any thing relating to the Government of the whole State of the Church ; all Legats , Governours of Cities and Provinces give an account of what things of concernment happens in their Government to this Congregation , who orders them to act as they think fit : yet by especial priviledge , the Legats of Avignon , Ceneda , Benevento , and the Governor of Fermo , and Spoleti are free from her jurisdiction . The Cardinal Padron , for the time , who is ever a nigh relation of the Pope , and who rules all under him is the head of it , at whose pleasure it usually meets in his Lodgings . The 11th . is dell , indice , into it are brought Matters of Books , Printed , or to be Printed , to be examined , Corrected , and Licensed ; it usually meets once a month or seldomer , as the Cardinal President of it is pleased to order . The 12th . is degli Syravii , or grievances , otherwise , De buono Regimine , 't is a Court of redress and equity , this , particular subjects , and whole Corporations apply themselves to , when they are wronged , or oppressed by their Governours ; this Cardinal Padron , is the Head of , who orders it to meet at his house when he hath a mind to 't . The 13th , is Soprale Zecche , about the mint ; sees all monies to be coyned , and sets the price of forreign Coyns , and all currrent moneys . This Congregation upon occasion , meets at the house of the Cardinal , head of it . The 14th . is Dell , Essame . All they who are to be promoted to any Bishopricks in Italy , and not one of it , are to be examined by these ; it is usually done in the Popes presence , and at his pleasure , for the time , he who is examined kneeling all the while upon a stool opposite to the Pope ; the Cardinals only are free from this examen . The 15th . is de negotii consistoriali , about consistorial affairs ; of which the Cardinal Docano , Senior , or Eldest as to Election , is the head : at whose house 't is kept but very seldome , because it treats only about matters referred to it by the Pope , as are resigning of Bishopricks , Abbeys , Ecclesiastical Taxes and Impositions . Having already mentioned Consistorial Affairs ; one is to know that the Consistory is the Assembly of all Cardinals then at Rome , whereat the Pope is ever present : it being kept at Monte Cavallo on Mundays , Wednesdays or Frydays ; where more general and serious Affairs are treated of : and what things the Pope is pleased to lay to their consideration , upon a consistory day , no Congregation is kept except it had been summoned before the Pope had intimated the Consistory ; and in such a case the Congregation is put off till the afternoon ; for Consistories are ever held betimes in the morning . Of Consistories , some are publick ; when by example , hats are bestowed upon Cardinals after a publick Cavalcata , or when Audience is given to Ambassadors , and forraign Ministers ; or else private , according to the Affairs they are to treat of ; and this last sort are kept more often than the former . That which they call Collegio , is the whole body of Cardinals ; among whom ever is one Camerlengo of the Sacro Collegio , to distinguish it from the Popes Chamberlain , and is but for a year : there is also a Secretary , a Clerk , and Controller● the Secretary is ever an Italian ; but the Clerk is one year a German , another a French man , and then a Spaniard . But there is the 16th . and last Congregation , Della visita Apostolica , whose care it is to see all Churches , Chappels , and places of devotion in and about Rome , that nothing be wanting in 't , tending to the necessaries , ornaments and decorum thereof ; and to cause every thing to be duely and orderly performed in 't . Besides all these Courts , there is a considerable one called la Ruota , composed of twelve Prelates ; whereof there is one German , one French-man , two Spaniards ; one of Bologna , one of Ferrara , one Venetian , one Toscan , one Milanese , and three Romans . They judge of all causes about Benefices , whether they be in those Countries which own the Popes authority , or else-where . About which they use to meet in the Apostolical Palace twice a week , on Mondayes and Fridayes ; and although the place of Auditori di Ruota be not very beneficial in it self , it being not worth much above one Thousand Crowns by the year , yet the Pope , bestowing upon them other Ecclesiastical preserments , it makes it very considerable , the more as to honour , that sometimes some of the Auditory are made Cardinals . There is also the Camera Apostolica , or Apostolick-Chamber , consisting of the Cardinal-Chamberlain , the Governor of Rome in quality of Vice-Chamberlain , the Treasurer-general , the Auditor and the President of the Chamber , the Advocate of the poor , the Solicitor-general , and Attorney-general , the Commissary & o twelve Chierici or Clerks ; whereof four ever are Over-seers or Prefetti , the one dell Annona of all manner of Corn , and price the other della grajua over the price of all sorts of Flesh and Fish ; the third over all the Prisons which he visits , with others , every Thursday ; and the fourth is to oversee the Streets . The Jurisdiction of this Court is extended upon every thing relating to the Church , in the way of Bonds , Leases , In-comes , Expences , matters of Rights , Customes , Impositions , and all Rights , Possessions and Priviledges ; in a word , when Popes were not so absolute , as they are now , these Camera , was as the Guardian of the State of the Church , to see that it should not be imbeciled , wronged or a lienated ; so that 't is indeed the true Treasury of the Church , all Tributes due to it being paid here . There is also another Office called Diataria , which is administred usually by a Cardinal , who hath one under him called Sotto Datario , throughout whose hands pass the vacancies of all benefices , which bring yearly very great In-comes to the Pope , who allows 2000 Crowns to the Datario , and 1000 to the Sotto Datario . This Office is not the same as that of the Secretary of the Pope , as some do imagine ; for he who is properly the Secretary of State is the Popes Nephew , or Nephews sometimes , who hath several under him : to him all Ambassadors , & publick Ministers make their addresses . This writes and subscribes by the Popes orders , all Letters to Kings , Princes , Nuncioes , and others , and signs the Patents of several Governours , and other Officers of the State of the Church ; yet the Patents and Commissions of Legats , Vice-Legats , Governors of great Cities &c. are signed by the Pope himself , and sealed sub annalo piscatoris . But there are other great Offices granted for life . First , The Popes Vicar , now Cardinal Gimetti above 84 years of age , a coveteous man , who hath many Kinsmen , which two things have made him lose the hopes of ever being chosen Pope . His Jurisdiction is extended upon regular Priests & Nunneries : the Jews , and deboist women which in Rome are publickly allowed , for which toleration , 't is the common opinion , they pay a Tribute , and certainly there is more than opinion in 't , because every one who is a House-keeper , & a known Whore must have her name registred at the Office of the Vice-Gerent , who is one of the chief Officers of the Vicario , who is also the Judge of them as such : so that all the year long they enjoy the liberty of their licentious life , except at certain times which they call Uacanze , as about Christmass and Easter , for then the Sbirri or Bayliffs go to search their houses , and if they find any there , they may if they will carry them and her to prison ; Therefore to prevent this inconveniency , these women send to the Office , and by the means of some moneys , obtain a defence to those Officers to come to their houses , and to molest them . And in the dayes of Alexander the 7th . there was a talk of suppressing these infamous houses ; a sign of the Popes protection , which gave occasion to this impious pasquinata , laudata Dominum pueri . Another great Office is that of the Sommo penitentiere , at present Cardinal Ludovicio , a person of mean parts ; his Jurisdiction is about Penances , Absolutions , and Confessions ; for he having many under him in great and weighty cases , they acquaint him with the faults , though not with the name of the party , to know of the penance to be said upon . The Vice-Cancelliere , or Vice-Chancellor so called , because the Pope reserves to himself the Title of Chancell or of the Universal Church , hath the whole ordering of the Chancery . The Camerlengo , now Cardinal Antonio Barberini , hath a very Honourable and beneficial place , for the Chamberlain takes cognizance of every thing belonging to the Camera , and in the time of Sede Vacante , or when there is no Pope , he takes the Popes Lodgings , is attended with his Guard , and causes money to be coyned in his Name : This place is worth 15000 Crowns by the year ; besides of three Keys of the Treasure of the Castle Saint Angelo , he hath one , the Pope having the other , and the Cardinal Decano the third . The Prefetto della signatura di giustitia , must see all Petitions about matters of Justice , and answers them , ordering what he thinks fit to be done about it . The like is done in matters of grace , pardon , &c. by the Prefetto della signatura di gratia . The Prefetto de brevi peruses and signs all the Apostolical Writs and Orders . The Bibliothecario is Over-seer of the Presses and of the Library in the Vatican , and commands those who have any thing to do in it . These four last Offices I mentioned only because they are in the hands of Cardinals as well as the four former , though lesse honorable and beneficial . So are the three following bestowed upon Cardinalls , and all is for life , to wit , The three Arch-Priests ; of St John of Lateran , now Cardinal Ghigi ; of St. Peter in Vatican , at present Cardinal Francesco Barberini ; & of Santa Maria Maggiore , now Cardinal Rospigliosi , by the late resigning of it up by Cardinal Antonio Barberini , who received some satisfaction for it . Now these three Arch-Priests have an absolute power over all the Canons , Priests , Curats , and Beneficiaries of their Churches ; which Benefices they may bestow upon whom they please when they are vacant ; besides this , he of Lateran hath the administration of Justice in civils and criminals over all persons within the Jurisdiction of his Church , Having already insisted so long upon this Subject , I must forbear speakingof othergreat charges , whether they belong to the Court , as the Master of Ceremonies , Master of the S. Palace , Secretaries , Steward , &c. Or be Military , as General of the Galleys of the Popes Guards of the Church , who hath four under him , to wit , of Avignon & Ferrara , and the Generals of the Horse , and of the Artillery . This great place is ever given to a nigh relation of the Pope ; and he , with him of the Galleys , and the Governour of the Castle Saint Angelo , are answerable of their actions to the Pope alone ; or whether they be Ecclesiastical , as Almoners , Chaplains , &c. or at last , whether they be Civil , as Governour of Rome , divided into 14 Rioni or Quarters ; namely , Monte , Colonna , St. Eustacio , Ponte , Regota , Ripa , Trastevere , Trivio , Campidelli Parione , Pigna , Campo Marzo , St. Angelo , Borgo ; but this last is actually depending upon the Governour of St Angelo , and also Senator , and Conservatours of Rome , &c. The King of Spain comes next to the Pope in Italy ; he hath Naples , and the Islands of Sicily and Sardegna upon the Coasts , with Milan in Lombardy , and Finale the head of a Marquisate upon the Coasts of Genoa , and nearer to Tuscany , he hath Portolongone , and Orbitello . The State of Naples . NAples containes twelve Provinces which are a division of the three ancient , their names are Terra di Lavora Principato citra , Principato Ultra , Basilicata , Calabria citra , Calabria ultra , terra d'Otranta , terra di Bari , Capitanata , Contato di Molisse , Abruzzo citra , and Abruzzo ultra . ; Most of these parts are inhabited by very dangerous people , the more by reason of the abundance of Woods which do shelter those Rogues , whom the Crimes they have committed have driven from the Cities , whither they are not safe to return ; whence they have the name of Banditi , and whom the protection of Great Men to make use of them one against another , by reason of their animosities , keeps there : those of Calabria , specially along the Coasts , have the name of being the worst of all , so ha t 't is turned into a Proverb , He is as wicked as a Calabrese . The best part of the Kingdom is , Terra di Lavoro , which is all the Countrey about Capua and Naples : There are but three good Havens able to receive at Fleet , Brundisi , Taranto , and Trani ; for Gaeta , Napoli , Puzzuolo , Bari and Otranto , are neither safe nor great enough . 'T is said , that the Cities , Lands , or Castles in the King dome come to 2573 , the least of which will make 500 Souls , or there abouts : They have good Souldiers , but proud , treacherous and inconstant for the generality ; yet there are brave men amongst the Nobility , I mean for Civility , Courage and Valour . The chief strong Holds of the Kingdom have Garrisons of Natural Spaniards , by whom they are strangely oppressed , as by them they were conquered . They are Governed by a Spanish Vice-King , to whom this people is given as a prey , that he may make himself amends for the Expences he hath been at in some chargeable Embassage , or a reward for some service he hath done to the Crown ; so that in three years , which is the usual prefixed time for the exercise of that Authority ( because the Court of Spain would not have Subjects to grow too potent in those parts ) they squeeze and oppress that people with an infinite number of Taxes , and other heavy burthens ; the Nation being look't upon by them as Factious , Seditious , reckoned and desirous of Novelties ; there being 30 notable Rebellions within the space of 500 years : So that the Vice-Kings rule with a Despotick Authority ; and let him do what he pleases in this kind , people must never look for redress , he not being accountable for things of this nature ; Besides that , the City , or any part of the Kingdom may not send upon any occasion an Agent or Deputy into Spain without a special License from the Vice-King , which he grants very seldome : Neither are the Nobility free from oppressions , being dragg'd into Prisons , or driven into Exile upon the least suspicion that they grow too potent , or are any ways disaffected . The insolencies of the Spanish Souldiers , and others of that Nation are not at all punished ; the very High-way-men , and other Rogues , who are as thorns in the sides of the people , and who vex , disturb , and plague them , are winked at , except it be upon a jealousie of State : So that , that formerly flourishing Kingdom , and full of all manner of necessary and delightful things , is at this day brought to an utmost misery ; that Nation not being allowed so much as liberty of trading with strangers , on selling their Inland Commodities , but upon certain Conditions , and a Licence well paid for ▪ and all the Gold which can be gathered there , is sent into Spain , which doth amount to vast sums . The Duke Medina delas torres los volez , told one day the Cavaliero Damenico Zane , then Embassadour at the Spanish Court from Venice , that in six years of his Government of that Kingdome , he raised 44 Millions of Crowns to supply the occasions of the Dukedome of Milan , and of Flanders , Moneys are drawn from thence , with a number of Souldiers to serve in the wars that are made in the forenamed Countteys : These and many other intollerable oppressions caused the great and many insurrections that have been there , which cost so much blood , not only in the times of troubles , but long after , it being the custome of Spaniards to punish to the Tenth Generation those faults which have been committed against the State. For all this , the Nobility of that Kingdom triumphing over their miseries , and boasting of their slavery , are high and proud , and yet gentle and courteous in their carriage , though they insult over the common people , they spend beyond their estates , are splendid in an outward shew , but frugal at home , loyal to the King , Enemies to the people , slaves of Royal Ministers , and very hard to their Vassals , whom they pinch to the very bones : with all this they hate the Spanish Nation . Out of this , one may judge of that enmity which is between the Napolitans , specially the people and the Spaniards ; there is never a year but hundreds of these last are killed by others , either at night in the streets of Naples , or in the fields , when Fruits and Grapes grow ripe ; this people , and so those of Milan , are grieved to see how those same Spaniards who come to them in a low and poor condition , and with Capatos de Cuerda , within a year or two do live very high , out of the blood and substance of the Countrey . So that the Spaniards being so hard Masters , they keep what they have in this Kingdom only , by the means of the division which is in it ; so they keep all what they have in Italy , only because the Italians suffer them to enjoy it for fear of falling into the hands of worse Masters , not that they can have worse , but because they are not so sensible at injuries received from Spaniards , as those which they have suffered from some other Nations , not as to the things , but as to the manner of doing them ; the Spaniard layes heavy burthens and impoverishes them , and upon suspicions and jealousies of State takes away mens lives ; nay , he attempts upon the Honor of families , but he carries it with more secresie and circumspection than other lighter Nations , whose manner of proceeding seems more insolent ; besides that , the Spanish haughtiness and gravity is more sutable to the Italian temper . Further , Spain and other Dominions belonging to it , being remote from Italy ; the Italians do not account them altogether so dangerous , as other Martial Nations who are at hand . However , if the late Duke of Guise had play'd his game well in Massanillo's time , and well used that conjuncture , he could have given them a great check in that Kingdom , but unadvisedly he left the City , which was at his Devotion , and he kept a number of insolent persons about him , which ever undid the French affairs in Italy . There goes a story of this Duke , that several persons of Quality and Interest , to the number of 2000 , appointed a Marquess to go in their name , and tell him , they were unanimously resolved to stand by him , and settle the Crown upon his head , if he would come to them ; but he was fast asleep when that Person came to his Palace ; Who said , he had matters of great concernment to impart to him ; but his people being loath to awaken him , he was forced to stay a long while ; at last being awaken'd , the other was called in , but before he was come to the Chamber , the Duke had began to Dance a Courante ▪ and would not speak with him till he had Danced ; which the other being arnazed at and offended , said to him afterwards in few words , I was come to you upon such an Errand ; But said he , by my so long waiting here , the time and opportunity are lost , therefore know that , Co'l balare non se quadagnano li Regni , Kingdoms are not gotten by Dancing : So he went to those who sent him , and told them what he had seen ; so that every one went home , and this person soon after forsook the Kingdom to avoid the punishment which the Spaniard would have inflicted upon him : If this be true , how did he strangely miscarry in 't , for so he lost all the Nobility , who afterwards closed with the Spaniard . The City of Naples is great and populous , they reckon , that with the late Plague 200000 died in it . Churches there are a Sanctuary to Malefactors , which hath been often an occasion of falling out between the Vice-Kings and Card. Filomarini late Arch-Bishop , for some of those having upon occasion caused these Malefactors to be taken by force out of ; these Churches ; he threatned , and did actually excommunicate some for breaking , as he pretended , the priviledges of those Churches , as if the House of God ( if such a name may be given to such places ) was to be a Sanctuary to , and a den of Thieves . There are three Castles in this City , one is St. Elme upon a Mountain , built by King Robert the first ; the other is Castel Novo , in the Port which keeps communication with the Palace of the Vice-Kings nigh to it , this was built by Charles , brother to Lewis the 9th . of France ; the third is , Dell-Ovo , which is upon a Rock in the Sea , William the third of Normandy built it . There are also several fair Churches embelished with rare Pictures , and other ornaments , so ther are two Cabinets worth seeing . At the end of one of the Suburbs , in the way to Puzzuola , is , la Grotta di Lucullo ; a way made through the Rock of almost a mile in lenth , and broad enough for three Coaches when they are gotten in 't : I shall not mention all the relicks of Antiquity which are seen in the way to Puzzuola , when one is at it , and at Baya , as the Elysian fields , and those other things so often mentioned in the Poets ; nor the mount Vesuvius , now la Montagne di Somma , these things are out of my purpose . I return to Naples , and say , that the Virtuosi there are called some Ardenni , others Intronati ; and 't is to be observed , that when these Societies take a name , 't is either a Title of imperfection , which betokens a privation , or of a moral Virtue , or of some habit of the Intellect , and all this to shew that they esteem and study the perfection , contrary to the defect signified by the name . Their great Offices of the Kingdome are either given or sold according to the Kings pleasure , but the last rather than the first ; and this for life : They are the High-Constable now a Rom an Prince , of the Family Colonna , the high Judge , high Admiral , high-Chamberlain , Gran Pronotario , a kind of a Principal Secretary , Gran Sinisculco , or high-Steward , and high-Chancellour , all which are given some to Italians , some to Spaniards . All the High-Courts do sit in the City of Naples , for there are the Seggi , which are the Assemblies of the Nobility of the whole Kingdom , divided into five Classes : The first is Seggio Capoano . The second , Di Nido ; the third , Di Montagna ; The fourth , Di Porta : and the fifth , Di Porta nuova , so that except one be admitted into one of those Seats , he cannot pass for a Nobleman or Gentleman ; the Nobility and Gentry there differing only in Degree , and not in Order ; now some enter into several Seggi , so that to be admited in , he must be past 20 years of age , and have the greater part of the Votes of all the Nobles of the Seggio . Out of these 3 Seggi are chosen 3 Gentlemen , who with one chosen by the people , make up the Body , called the Magistrate of the City , through whose hands do pass all manner of Taxes and Impositions which the Vice-Roy hath a mind to lay upon City and whole Kingdom : they also finde out means how to bring it about . There is also in Naples that Tribunal so much talked of , called , La Vicaria , which matters of the greatest importance are brought unto , and receive ; appeals from all parts of the Kingdom . The greatest of all is also kept there , called it Collaterale , whereof the Consigliere , or Counsellors have the Title of Regenti , and for distinction-sake , they wear a long gown , this under the King is the Supreme Court of Justice , treating of several important matters ; these Regenti are chosen by the King , part Napolitans , and part Spaniards , and 't is for life . It also hath a Councel of State , which judges of things concerning War composed , of six persons , whereof three are Spaniards , and three Italians , half Souldiers , and half gown-men , chosen by the King ; over this as all the rest is the Vice-King , whose authority is very great , and the profit arbitrary . I am loath to omit speaking of a custome of the Napolitans , for all their reserved temper once a year , at Vintage-time , they allow themselves a very great liberty of jesting one with another ; the meanest person is then allowed to jear the Noblest man of the Land , who use to begin with them : they give one another all the bad names which their Language doth afford , whereof the least at another time would cause murthers and stabbings . This calls to my mind a singular custome they have at Rome , when there is fallen some snow , at which time the most reserved and vertuous men and women throw Balls one at another ; the Princes and their Wives practise it one with another within their Palaces : Neighbours throw it through the windows into the Chambers one of another ; if one hath any kindness for another , 't is the fashion to go under the window , and throw in some , as they receive some , if they go by the door of any of their acquaintances ; and this is amongst them a token of civility and favour , and so much observed , that if any Gentleman or friend of mine comes to me , the most vertuous woman that happens to be my Neighbour , can shew me no greater respect nor kindness , than to throw at him snow balls . Before I speak of the secrets of State , which the Spaniards have in relation to this Kingdom , 't will not be amiss to speak few words of some Maximes they have in general ; relating to the rest of their State-Dominions in Italy . At Madrid for the affairs of Italy , there is a particular Council consisting of six Counsellours , whereof two are Napolitans , two Sicilians , and two of Milan , besides the President , who ever is a Spaniard , and now the Marquess of Vellada by name ; This Council was instituted by Philip the Second , no other affairs but those of Italy are treated of in it , which formerly belonged to the congnizance of the Council of Aragon . When first of all the Spaniards came to Italy , and had gotten footing in it , they went about by fair means to insinuate themselves into the affection of the Nation , to turn it upon occasion to their own advantage ; but the Italians , who , as they say of themselves , Dormono Co'll Occhio aperto , who are constantly awake , stood upon their guards , and observed the Spanish motion , which being taken notice of by the House of Austria , Charls the 5th , & then the Council I spake of just now under his Son Philip the second , took another course , and went about to terrifie them with their Arms , to draw some to them with fair promises , to threaten others , to sow divisions amongst them , but above all they lookt upon the Republick of Venice as a great let to their designs , having ever appeared to be the Champion of the Liberties of Italy ; the troubles which this raised in those parts sometimes against Mantoa , other times , against Savoy , &c. are well known ; but now a constant maxime they hold , is , to get at Rome as many Cardinals as they can to be their friends , that if possible they may every time have a friend of theirs chosen Pope , the truth is , they are potent in the Conclave , because of several Napolitans , and Milaneses who are in it , the several means they have to gratifie Church-men , by conferring Benefices on them within their Dominions in Italy , and by selling Lands and States to others within the same , besides the many pensions which they allow to several of them : so that whilst the French hath but eight or ten of his side , namely , D' Este , Ursini , Antonio , Grimaldi , Mancini , Maldachini , de Rets , Bouillon , the greater number of them are for the Spaniard ; 't is true , 't is very chargeable for them to keep this party , and a Spanish States-Man had reason to say , It were better for his King to buy Popes ready made , than to make them . But now in few words , Spaniards do govern Naples with these few rules ; the first is , to hold good correspondencie with the Pope , not only because they do him homage for it , but because he is a next neighbour , much able to trouble it , and to foment and assist Insurrections in it . The second is , to foment Divisions between the Nobility and the people , and between the Nobility themselves who being all together united , could for certain drive them out ; and though the Napolitans Horse's back be much gall'd , if he could gather his strength together , he would be able to shake off the Rider . The third Maxime is , as much as they can doe to make great States fall into the hands of women , whom they marry afterwards to Spanish Noble-Men . The Chief Families of that Kingdom are at present Caraccioli , where of the Duke of Auelina is the Head ; Caraffa , of which Family is the Duke Matalone ; Pignatelle , who had the title of Duke of Monteleone , Monaldesqui , Aquaviva , Brancaccio , and several others who have the name of Princes , as , Marana , &c. The antient family of the Princes of Salerno is extinct as to the name , and their Palace at Naples ; which was very stately , hath these several years been possessed by the Jesuites . I shall not say much of Sicily , 't is governed by a Vice-King at present ; the Duke of Albuquerque , as Don Pedro d' Arragon is he of Naples : This Island is known to be plentiful ; and as formerly it was the Granary of Italy , so 't is still of part of it , but specially of Maltha , for the Gallies of the Order come almost every week to transport Corn cut of it . Messina drives a great Trade of Silks ; the Inhabitants have still their est & non est , that is , when any thing is proposed by the Vice-King or his Order , after a debate had thereupon to satisfie the people , they cry out non est , if it be not contrary to their Priviledges ; if it be , they say , est , then every one gets to his Arms. This City hath several priviledges , but cannot get them confirmed at Madrid ; neither do the Vice-Kings dare to trust themselves amongst them ; therefore they reside at Palermo , which was the landing place of Don Pedro d' Arragon , when the moneys he had received from Lewis the 9th of France , to make war against the Infidels in Affrica , he went to drive Charles d' Anjou , Lewis's Brother , out of the Kingdome whereof he was lawful Sovereign . The peoople of this Island speak a very corrupt Italian Language , mixed with some words of corrupt Greek ; & as their Luanguage is , so are their manners , and nature , which how treacherous it is let the Sicilian Vesspers bear witness ; by which action they are become not only odious , but also a proverb to Italy , having thereby been the author of all the disturbances where-with the Spanish Nation have since afflicted those parts of the world ; it had been something in withdrawing from the subjection of one ( who though he was their lawful Prince , yet he was of a Forein Nation ) they had gotten their liberty ; yet Princes may see of how dangerous a consequence is this president : but to leave the bad for the worse , 't is to find a pain , wherein they look't for a pleasure , that is , to be no more reasonable than were the Frogs , who rejected the Reed , to have the Stork to rule over them ; they should have learned of the Fish , how it is better to keep in the Pan , though amidst boyling water , than to leap out and fall into the burning flames and fire . Mount Aetna , now Gibello , with some of his flames , is still to be seen ; its horrid late casting up stones , flames , cinders , as far as Catania , and the running of Rivers as it were of fire and brimstone , are known to all Europe ; Such as we cannot read ever there was the like . Syracusa is not very far from it , which is much decay'd , they shew some old standing ruines of a Castle , as they say of Dyonisius ; they affirm 't was in the shape of a shell ; in the Centre of which was the Tyrants Closet , whence by the means of some pipes , which conveyed the voice , he heard ( if we believe the Tradition ) every word spoken by the prisoners ; 't is probable that such a thing may be , there being things of that nature in several parts ; though these prisoners were at a great distance from the Closet . The Spaniards govern this Land almost by the same Maximes which they use in Naples , only they let them have some few Priviledges , in consideration of their withdrawing from the French , and giving themselves up to them ; nevertheless , the Spaniards are much odious to them by reason of the great and many oppressions they suffer from them , for the which no body pities them , since they brought it upon themselves ; however , 't is the division of the two Chief Cities Messina and Palermo about precedencie and other things , which upholds the Spaniards authority in the Island ; for when one of these Cities stands up , the other stoops , and they do every thing in opposition one to another ; the Spaniard therefore knoweth how much it imports to his interest to see these differences continue , he foments it with the best of his skill , and to the utmost of his power . It were in vain to speak of Sardegna , seeing the people in it are become Spaniards in every thing . There hapned in it not long since a great division caused by falling out between two of the Chief persons of the Island , but having been both transported into Spain , the Factions were dispersed , and gave way to a general tranquility . This is a Kingdome , and therefore is Governed by a Vice-King , who was lately Prince Ludovisio . Of late they have stirred very much , having killed a Vice-Roy ; for which act some have been executed , which their Friends and Relations highly rescenting , are causing new Disturbances ; so that the present Vice-King not thinking himself strong enough , hath desired more Forces out of Spain , specially his Enemies being potent in Cagliari , hereby are laid the foundations of an eternal hatred , for their Children inherit of the quarrels , and desire of vengeance , as of the states of their parents , this had been a fair occasion for any forrein Enemy of the Spaniard . This Island , as that of Sicily and Naples , maintain a number of Gallies , which of late is much diminished , for put them altogether with the squadron of the Duke of Tursi , they do not come to above twenty . The state of Milan . VVEsterly it borders with Piemont and Monferrat , Sur Southerly with the Republick of Genoa , Westerly with the Duke of Parma , with the Republick of Venice and the Duke of Mantoa , and Northerly with the Valtoline . The Dukedome of Milan is as good and as plentiful a Countrey as any in Italy , full 300 miles about , plain and even ground ; in it are many Lakes full of Fish , and is watered by considerable Rivers , which make it pleasant , plentiful and strong ; Po runs by Cremona , the Tanaro by Alessandria , and the Bormia , which is a little one not far off . Adda , nigh to Lodi and Ticcino by the walls of Pavia , by Milan run two Channels , one of which is of great use ( and this goes through it ) and both for watering of grounds , whence it is that they have so good pastures ; hence it is that this Dukedom doth furnish with Cheese all Italy , and other places ; the best sort of that which goes under the name of Parmesan is made at Lodi , one of the Cities of the Dukedome , and its Territory . This Countrey doth also produce abundance of all manner of Corn , good Fruits , and good Wines ; this goodness of the Soyle , joyned to the industry of the people , makes it very rich ; it contains many Cities , as Milano , Pavia , Tortona , Alessandria , Della Paglia , Novarra , Mortara , Vigevana Cremona , Lodi , Como and Lomellina , every one strong , and except Mortara , the head of a Territory , which borrows its name from the Town . This Dukedome is Governed by one sent from Spain , and hath the name of Governour , who was Don Lewis de Gusman ponce de Leon : And now the Marquess de Los Balbases : These Governours improve well their time , which , as I said in the case of Naples , is for three years , or thereabouts , except they be confirmed ; and this makes part of the misery of that people , that every three years they have new and greedy Ministers , who make haste to be rich , and when they begin to be full , they are gone to give place to one who is as hungry as they were . The King of Spain raises here one Millions ofCrowns a year , but it goes all for the necessities of the State. In time of peace there are kept 5000 men ; there was a strong hold , called the Fort Sandoval , which commanded the way into one of the Gates of Vercelli , which is but a Cannon-shot off , and 't was raised to bridle that place ; but the Spaniards after the taking of Vercelli demolished it not long since as a thing chargeable , and nor necessary ; but by the late Treaty of Peace with France , they restored Vercelli to the Duke of Savoy . The City of Milan is called the great , for 't is of a large circumference , full of people , to the number of about 300000 , and of handy-craft-men , almost of all fort , in so good repute amongst the Italians , that when any sumptuous clothes or furnitures are to be bought , or any considerable equipage is to be made , to the very Liveries , they send thither to have it done : They work much in Silks , Gold and Silver thread , and make admirable good Gun-barils ; all this maintains abundance of weak and poor people . In this place is a Castle , esteemed one of the strongest in Europe , well provided with Ammunition and Artillery ; there is a particular Governour of it , who doth not depend upon the Governor of the Dukedome , but hath his Orders immediately from Spain . In this City is a very great number of stately Churches , specially the Domo , all built with white Marble ; they say , about it are 600 Statues , which cost 1000 Crowns a piece : if this Church be once finished according to the design ; none but St. Peter in Rome will be able to compare to it ; till then , this last will be the fairest in Europe , and I believe , of the world , for all the great commendations given to that of Santa Sophia in Constantinople . I returnto Milan , and say , not only there are in 't fair Churches , but also sumptuous Cloysters , Hospitals , Palaces , and other Noble Buildings : A Church-man there hath a fine Cabinet full of Rarities , most of his own invention and making . Virtuosi in Milan have the name of Nascosti ; but I must not omit to say that the house which the Cartusians have fifteen miles from Milan , and five from Pavia , is the best of their Order . Notwithstanding the Proverb tha● the King of Spain governs Sicily in meekness , or Dolcezza Naples by fraud , or con Inganno , and Milan by Authority , con Authorita ( which may be understood in relation to the strong holds he hath in it : ) 'T is his maxime of State , to Rule this Dukedome with more gentleness , than the rest of his Dominions in Italy ; This practice is inforced by the temper of the people , who are nor so willing nor so apt as others to suffer abuses , burthens exceedingly heavy , nor other great opresfions , their spirits can hardly bear it ; they are of an humour free , open , plain , and as they call it , Rozzo , being usually called the Lombarad's temper : That which makes further the Spaniards more circumspect in this , is that many Neighbour Princes would willingly receive and assist them , if they came to have a pull for their liberty , for they joyn with the Duke , of Mantoa , the Venetians , with Parma , Genoa , Piemont , and with the Grisons , by the Ualteline ; therefore the Spaniards , who knew the importance of that passage to them , struggled so hard for it , and set all Europe in an uproar about it : yet for all this gentleness of theirs used to the Milenesi , that people is not free from grievances and oppressions . That Countrey which for a long while together hath been the seat of War , hath been obliged to maintain in a good measure the Spanish , Germans , French , Savoy , Modena , and Mantoan Forces , the perpetual lodging , quartering , and contributing , for the Souldiers hath wasted them ; and all this hath been a pretence for the Spanish Ministers to oppress them : The Italian Proverb saith , that the Spanish Ministers in Sicily Rodono they Gnaw , in Naples Mangiano they eat , but in Milan Divorano they devour : but they bear it , seeing that excepting the Republicks , the Subjects of other Princes are used no better than they . At first the Sforzi got this Countrey from the Visconti , and the House of Austria hath gotten it from these , yet the Venetians have of it Brescia , Bergamo , and Crema : I will not shew whose right it is to have it , if the Heirs of Valentina have it not . The Chief Families of it are now Borromeo , Trivultio , Stampa , Trotti , Sforza , Homodei , Litta , &c. Finale is a Town well fortisied , of great concernment to the Spaniard , for 't is the only door they have to get into Milan from Spain , Naples , Sicily , &c. It is also a bridle to the Genoesi . Portolongone and Orbitelle are also upon the Coasts , the one on the Continent , the other close by upon a Rock in the Sea , of great importance to bridle the Grand Duke , Viareggio belonging to Luea and the Genaesi . The state of the Duke of Savoy . THe Duke of Savoy is the most considerable Prince of Italy , after the Crowned Heads ; He comes from Humbert , a younger Brother of Saxony , and a man of fortune : Amede the great , or , le Comte Verd , or Green Earl , so called , because usually his Clothes were of that colour , as were those of his Followers ; by his merits and good fortune raised himself to a great credit ; he did great Services against Infidels , specially at the taking of Rhodes from the Infidels , and then he took the Motto about the Coat of Arms which to this day that Family retains ; F. E. R. T. signifying , Fortitudo , Ejus , Rhodum Tenuit . His History is in Fresco at the pleasure-house of the Dukes at Rivoli . This Family was first Earls of Moriene , then by Marriage and favour of some Emperour , Princes of Piemont , and Dukes of Savoy ; and of late from the Duke of Mantoa , they have gotten Trin and Alba in Monferr at by the Treaty of Chierasco , so that besides Piemont with its Vallies , and Savoy , the Duke hath upon the Sea-coasts , Villa Franca , Oneglia , and Nizza di provinza , with as strong a Castle as any in Europe , his Dominions indeed are large , though to speak the truth , Savoy is a barren and a mountainous Countrey , which defect is somewhat made up by the indefatigable laboriousness of the people , and by the populousness and plenty of Piemont . His Court is for certain the Ornament of Italy , not composed of a vast number of persons , nor solitary neither ; there is in it a variety without confusion , well compacted , consisting of choice persons , well qualified for a Court in a handsome and orderly way ; In it the French and Italian languages are commonly spoken , and the free French manner of life is practised in it . These Princes have been , and are still very Honourable in Europe ; for this long while Emperors and Kings have given them the Title of Serenissime , when some other Princes of Italy did not so much as pretend to it : but it happened in the days of Pope Urban the 8th , that he ( it may be to please his Nephews ) gave a higher title to Cardinals than they had before , the title of Illustrissime was changed into that of Eminentissime ; this obliged some Princes to take the title Serenissime and of Highness ; upon which account still to keep a distinction between them and other Princes , the Dukes of Savoy added Reale to Altezza to make up Royal Highness , which they pretend to , as being Titular Kings of Cyprus , and so by vertue of a match with France , the French did not oppose it ; and this Duke is now in hopes that the King or Prince Regent of Portugal ( being now himself own'd to be a Crowned Head ) by reason of the late Marriage , or that which is to be made with that Prince Regent , and the Dutchesse's Sister , will approve of it , but upon what grounds I dispute not . This Duke is Vicar of the Empire in Italy , he could not yet obtain from the Emperour the Investiture of what he hath in Montferrat ; however of late the Electoral Colledge at the Sollicitation of the House of Bavaria , whose present Elector married his Sister , did something on his behalf , to wit , made a Decree , that his not being invested by the Emperour shall be no prejudice to his Right , seeing he had used his diligence to obtain it . 'T is a thing which raises much the Glory of this Prince , that he hath several of his Subjects descended from Emperours of East and West Kings , other Sovereign Princes , and of the Chief Families of Italy ; in Piemont alone are above fifty Earles , fifteen Marquesses at least ; this makes him the more Considerable , and adds something to his strength , which on the other side doth consist in the largeness of his Dominions , the Number , Affection , and Fidelity of his Subjects ; and in his strong places , of which the Castle of Montmelian , though taken by the French , is one of the chief in Savoy ; they use to say , that their Prince hath a City which is 300 miles about , to shew how thick Towns are in it , and how populous it is ; in Piemont alone are 8 Episcopal Cities , and 130 very populous places . Another thing is , that the Duke is as absolute as any Prince in Europe . 'T is said of Charles Emanuel , this Dukes Grand-Father , that one day discoursing with Henry the fourth of France , and the King having asked which of the two Pistols ( pieces of Gold ) the French or Spanish he accounted the heaviest ; his answer was , That which I shall give my grain to , meaning that of the two Kings , he whom he would assist should be the strongest . His Riches I will not mention , his yearly income is said to amount to one Million , and Eight Hundred Thousand Crowns , out of which Savoy and the Vallies yeild him but Four Hundred Thousand , all which is Nobly spent . I must say however , that Gold and Silver are scarce in his Dominions , which on the other side afford him a great plenty of all things , whereby all manner of provisions are at a low rate . Upon consideration of this , two several proposals were made to the present Duke by a judicious person ; the first and less important , was to settle a fixed and a constant Office for the conveniencie of Travellers , so that giving so much , they should be defrayed for their Diet , and should be provided with Horses ; to this effect a Correspondencie was to be setled at Lyon , as this had been convenient for strangers and safe , so it had made the moneys of all those who enter Italy that ways to pass through the hands of the Dukes Officers ; and these sums had been very considerable , seeing all those , who go by land into Italy out of Spain , in time of peace out of France , and pats of Germany , come by the way of Lyon , this would have encouraged many to go that way who do not , helpt the sale of provisions , and brought Moneys into the Countrey : but this Proposal , though approved , yet wanting a further encouragement came to nothing . The second is to make Nizza , or Villa Franca a Free port , any of these lies convenient for ships , this would bring in Trade , and consequently Moneys , and would help the sale of the Lands Commodities : but I omit the reasons which are given to inforce this proposal , for I must come to other things . Turin is the Metropolis of Piemont , and the ordinary place of the Dukes Residence , when he is not at his houses of pleasure , of which he hath as great a number of fine and convenient ones , as any other Prince : This City is well seated in a plain , the Rivers Po and Doire running not far from it ; in the Court is an Office of the Admiralty , as they call it of the Po , which is more for formality-sake , than for any benefit . In Turin are to be seen the Old and New Palaces , with the Garden , from the place to the New Palace to that of St. Garloe , is on both sides a row of fine Houses all uniform . I shall say nothing of Churches there , nor of the Countrey-houses , as Rivoli , Moncallier , le Valentin , Millefleur , and la Venerea , which is the present Dukes delight : but I must take notice that there is as good a Citadel as any in Europe , in which there is a Well , into which one may go down to water a Horse , and at the same time , one can come up thence and not see one another . There are also Armes for 40000 men . Many things I omit here to tell , that Carlo Emanuele , the present Duke , is a Prince well made of his person , of a middle stature , full face , with that natural red , which only doth embelish it ; his sight is none of the best , as may be observed when he eats or reads ; he loves hunting with some kinde of excess , the scorching heat , nor the foulness of weather , being not able to divert him from it : and by this constant course he hath brought himself into a capacity to endure any hardship ; yet this passion doth not take him off his important businesses , which he is vigorous in , and follows it very close : He hath set days to give Publick Audience , at which time the least of his Subjects may speak to him without any disturbance at all , and he hears them very patiently , as he is an active man , so he takes cognizance of every thing , and imparts all to his Lady , who being a judicious Princess , and exceedingly complying with his Highness , she ever hath a place in his Closet , as in his Bed. He is a Prince very civil to Strangers , and now frugal at home , for he finds his Ancestors have been too free so he hath been himself , but now says for a reason of his alteration , that as to Frugality he cannot imitate a greater Monarch than the , King of France , with whom he hath a conformity of temper , joyned to a natural affection . His inclination to Women hath been discovered by his actings with the Marchioness of Cahours , and is daily observed by those who follow his Court. His first Minister of State is the Marquess of Pianezza , of the Family d' Allie , and Brother to Count Philip ; a great Polititian he is , and a greater Enemy to the Protestants of the Vallies of Piemont : His Son the Marquess of Livorno , kept the place when he was lately retired for some distasts , though under pretence of Devotion . The Marquess San Germano Governour of Turin , is of the same Family ; The Marquess Palavesin ( Successor to the Marquess de Fleury , who was turned out for his privacies with the Marchioness de Cabours ) Captain of the Guards , is also much in favour ; so is the Old Marquess of Voghera , whose Lady hath the oversight of the Maids of Honour , but none can boast of being his special Favourite . The Princes of the Blood are few , the Young Prince of Piemont , Son to the Duke by this Wife , and Prince Philibert , with the Earl of Soissons , Sons to the late Prince Thomas . There is at Court a Princess , the Dukes Sister unmarried : there is a Natural Uncle of the Dukes , Don Antonio , Governour of Villa Franca , and a Natural Son of the late Victor Amedeo , who lives privately in France . This Princes Countrey is much exposed to the French power , whereby they have been stript twice , and therefore his interest is to agree with France , for fear of bringing himself into the sad condition which the Duke of Lorrain is in , for the 18 or 20000 men , which without any great inconveniencie he can keep on foot , could hardly save him ; he is withal as handsomely as he can to prevent the French from setling in Milan , for then he would be shut up by them every way . The State of the Grand Duke . THe Family of Medici , of which are the Grand Dukes of Toscany , hath not been very long possessed of that Dignity , neither is it so antient as are many others in Italy ; when Florence was a Republick , 't was one of the Chief , but no more than the Strozzi , Pitty , and some others were . Alexander began the work , but was quickly dispatched by his Cousin Lorenzo : then came Cosmo , who was the first named & Crowned Grand Duke by Pope Pio Quinto of his Family , Ferdinand who left off the Cardinals Cap after the death of his Elder Brother , Cosmo 2d . and Ferdinand 2d . who is the present Grand Duke , who married Donna Vittoria della Rovere , last heir of the late Duke of Urbino . Some say a Physician was the first who raised that Family , and that in token of it , they took the Pile ( but 't is the Balls or Globes ) for their Armes ; they were raised by Charles the 5th . the Emperor , who gave Margarita his Natural Daughter to Alessandro , and so forced the Florentines to submit to him . The Grand Dukes are Creatures of Clement the 7th . and of Charles the 5th . Emperour , with whose arms and countenancing , they became Masters of Florence ; at present they are in possession of three formerly potent Republicks , to wit , Florence , Pisa , and Siena ; they have all antient Toscany , except Luca and Sarzana ; hence is the Proverb , which saith , If the Grand Duke had Luca , and Sarzana , Sarebbe , Re di Toscana , for he hath also the Cities of Pistoias Volterra , Cortona , Arezzo , Montepulciano , and several other lands and Castles of a lesser importance , besides part of the Island Alba , where is Cosmopoli , and Porto Ferrario . When the Dukes came to the Government , the Florentines had subdued Pisa , wherefore the condition of that City is the worst of the three , for being a conquer'd Countrey they are under the Jurisdiction of Florence ; but Siena is Governed in the same way , as when it was a Republick , owning none but the Grand Duke , or the Governour sent by him ; thus they have nothing to do at Florence , even they are used better than the Florentines , who being look't upon at sactiout men , and desirous of liberty , are not only disarmed , as all other Subjects are , but are more bridled too : A further reason is , that the Duke doth homage for it to the Crown of Spain ( as he doth for Radicofany to the Pope ) therefore he dares not take altogether the same liberty there , which he uses in other places . Pisa is void of inhabitants , but well seated , and hath in it several things worthy to be seen ; the Grand Duke delights to be in 't , therefore he comes to it , having the conveniencie of a Forrest , which lies not far from it . Siena is a fineCity , in a good Air , with good store of people in it , the Italian tongue is well spoken , the Virtuosi that are there , are called Intronati . Florence , the place of the Courts ordinary residence , is a stately City , and very populous , there being accounted to be 100000 souls in it ; the Gentry in it doth not think it below themselves to follow trade , which is specially of Silks , so that it may pass for a rich town ; there are in it 10 or 12 Families , accounted to be worth one Million of Crowns . There are three Castles , fine Churches , specially the Domo , which on the outside is all of white and black Marble , and that incomparable Chapel of San Lorenzo , for the which Marble is not rich enough to enter , as one of the Materials , but Jasper , Agatha , Porphiry , &c. There are further rare Palaces , and the Dukes Galleries exceedingly rich , the River Arno runs through it , there is that learned Society , called la Crusca . The Grand Duke trading much underhand , as its thought , and being very frugal , must be very rich ; not to mention those rich Galleries of his esteemed worth above three Millions , but he draws to himself the best of his Dominion , there being hardly in the World a Countrey more oppressed with Customes and Taxes than this is ; hence it is , that except Florence , where trade doth flourish , and Siena , where is still some rest of liberty the whole Country is the Grand Dukes , very little inhabited , and full of poverty , and this for fear those Toscan active wits should cause some disturbance ; therefore he hath several strong holds , with a 1000 horse commanded by strangers , and about 4000 foot , besides the Militia's , which upon occasion ought to be ready . 'T is a priviledge of the Horse-men , that they may not be arrested for any debt whatsoever ; so that any one that 's affraid and in danger of it , uses all possible means to get in amongst them . This Prince for his person is a judicious man , and upon all occasions carries himself very politickly , besides the general genius of the Nation , the particular one of the Florentines , which goes beyond others , and his own natural parts ; Having ruled these many years , he hath gotten a great deal of experience ; therefore he knows admirably well how to far fatti Suoi , to mind and do his businesses , whereat he is as a Cervellone , Italiians call it . He carries his whole Council along with him , for he hath no constant nor fixed Councellours , but upon occasson he sends for whom he pleases to have their advice , but all resolutions do absolutely depend upon him ; so that the whole manner of his Government is to be attributed to him alone . He is extraordinary civil to strangers , specially if they be persons of Quality , and after they have had the Honour of waiting on him , he sends them a Regale , or a present of Fruits , Wines , &c. But of all Nations , Germans are those who have the greatest priviledges about his person , and in his Dominions , strangers of other Nations having any thing to do with his Searchers , and the like Officers , do free themselves of toyl and trouble , by saying they are Germans ; and at present , amongst those many of that Nation who are at his service , there is one who is much in favour with him . He is very careful to know the affairs of other States , to be able the better to rule his own , to that end he spares no charges that he may be well informed of it , knowing it is the deepest policie of Princes to dive into the affairs of others : so every year he spends great sums of moneys to maintain the Spies he keeps abroad , there being no Court , and hardly any considerable City , but he hath some to give him intelligences of what passes in 't . He will have an exact knowledge of the state of every thing within his dominions , therefore in 1645 , having a mind to know the yearly Income of his Clergy , he caused an account to be made of it ; 't was found to amount to 765000 Crowns , whence one may guess he doth not neglect to know his own , which is thought to be of half a Million of English pounds , besides Casualities , of which he hardly spends the half ; so that he must needs have many a Million in his Coffer ; Indeed Legorn alone is worth a treasure to him , it being the most noted Store-house of all the Mediterranean , there being at it an extraordinary concourse of Ships from all parts , and 't is a place well fortified ; there is in it the Statue of Ferdinand the first , with four slaves in Brass , then the which nothing better can be seen in that kind . But to return to the Grand Dukes riches , he daily improves them with his frugality , for to save charges he hath lessened the number of his Gallies , having now but four , two of which are unfit for service ; and to get monies he hires the others to Merchants to transport their Wares ; formerly his Gallies lay along the Coasts to secure them from Pyrates ; now they have Towers along the Sea shore , where they use tolight fires when any Enemies or Pyrates appear , which gives a warning where the danger is . This Prince gathers monies on all hands , for at Florenee , Legorn , and other places , he receives Contribution from the Cortegiane , or prostitute women , for the tolleration and protection he gives them ; so that an injury done to any of those Infamous persons shall be punished , as if it had been done to the most virtuous in the world . But the Grand Duke is not satisfied to be frugal himself , he hath often exhorted the Grand Prince his Son to the practice of it ; Son , saith he , Non spender ' quell ' che tu hai perche , chi non ha none ; Do not spend what thou hast , for he who hath nothing , is nothing . Another way of this Grand Duke to get monies , and wherein lies his great maxime of policy at home , is to keep his Subjects low ; no people in the world lye under heavier Taxes and burthens than this doth ; every house that is Let out , payes him the tenth part of the rent ; every Contract of Marriage , Eight by the hundred of the portion ; and every one who will goe to Law , afore he begins must pay two for the hundred , out of this one may judge of the rest ; this usage makes that Prince to mistrust his Subjects , who are active , stirring , and men of pregnant parts , exceedingly desirous of , and breathing after liberty , for 't is very hard for a people who lived a long while in a way of Republick , to bring themselves to live under a Monarch , so absolute and so hard as this is ; so that upon this account the Grand Dukes strong places are all well furnished with Armes , Ammunition , and Provision , not only to resist a forreign Enemy upon occasion , but to bridle his own Subjects ; which is indeed a sad case , when a Prince hath as many Enemies as he hath Subjects ; how can he think himself sure with those who hate and fear fear him , seeing any one who out of despair caresnot for his life , is ever the Master of anothers , specially in those parts where 't is so much used , and where men are so skill'd at it ; and the Devil who is a murtherer from the beginning , omits no occasion to infuse bloody motions into his Hirelings . Happy is that Prince whose strongest fortress consists in the love of his Subjects , who hath not only their hands but their hearts along with him ; 't is certain that of all Enemies the Domestick is the most dangerous , and the most to be feared . Oderint dum metuant , was a fit expression for such a man as Tyberius . Yet though the Grand Duke keeps his people so low , he hath left them a shaddow of liberty , whereat they be somewhat satisfied , it consists in the use of those common Laws of Justice which they had in the time of the republick . Now to the maximes of State of this Prince in Relation to his Neighbours , the first is apparently to be united with Spain , yet in private to keep friendship and correspondency with France , which the Spaniards often times have been much displeased at , and had some thoughts to resent it , but fearing least the remedy might prove worse than the disease , they have chosen to sit still . What he doth in France , the same he practises with the Republick of Venice : but that which he minds most of all , is to have a good number of Cardinals , and other useful persons of Quality his pentioners at Rome , to have none but those who be his friends chosen Popes , for the great'st stormes he is afraid of are from thence , for knowing how matter is combustible at home , he fears least Popes would encourage and assist his people to recover that liberty which they are so much longing after ; and there hath been some Popes who were born his Subjects , as one of the Clements , and lately Urban the 8th . who have given him or his Ancestours trouble enough . Of his Family , Prince Matthias his Brother died lately , Governour of Siena , and now Prince Leopold is created Cardinal , his Son the Grand Prince his Heir Apparent is called Cosmo , who hath married the Princess of Voalis , of the French Royal blood : for a long while there hath been an unhappy falling out between them , but now all differences are composed ; by some the fault was laid upon one , and by others upon the other ; 't is not fit for men to search into the causes of falling out between Husband and Wife , specially when they are Princes ; some particular ones I heard , which I doe not minde , onely one may say that the retired manner of life practised in Florence differs very much from that which is lead at Paris , so that an Italian may happen to require a thing which a French Woman will have no mind to grant : I know in Toscany there are still some Noble and Ancient Families , but as the Grand Dukes have been very jealous of their Aurhority , they have either rooted out , or brought very low the Chief , and those of whom they were the most jealous . The state of Mantoa . THe Family Gonzaga hath possessed the State of Mantoa since the year 1328. at which time Roberto Gonzaga having expelled some petty Usurpers , he made himself Master of it ; they enjoyed it without any Title till the year 1432. when the Emperour Sigismond Created Giovanni Francesco Marquesse , and Charles the 5th . in the year 1530. made Federico Duke of it ; this Married Margarita Paleologa Heir to the Marquesate of Monferrat . The Titles of this Prince are these , Duke of Mantoa , Marquess of Monferrat , Prince , and perpetual Vicar of the Empire in Italy , Marquess of Gonzaga , Viadane , Gozzolo , Dozzolo , Earle of Rodiga , and Lord of Luzara . These Dukes could formerly live in as great a splendour as any Prince in Italy , their equal , specially since Monferrat was united to their State , but since the late Warre made against the Duke Charles the first , in the year 1630. by the House of Austria , under pretence that he had not done homage to the Emperour , nor acknowledged him for his Soveraign , though the true reason was , because being born in France , he was by them suspected to be wholly inclined that way , and by the Duke of Savoy , who would have stript him of Monferrat , which is joyning to Piemont : their Strength is so weakned , and their Revenue , and yearly Income so lessened , that without the help of other Princes they cannot maintain their Garisons , as it is in the case of Cazal that strong place , so that from above 300000 Crowns they had a year , they are brought to 80000. which yet are not clear . Mantoa , formerly a most flourishing and very populous City , hath at present but few Inhabitants , and is full of misery , not caused by their Princes who have been the meekest of all Italy , but they could not rise up again since they were taken and plundered by the Imperial Army . The best Ornament of that City was , and is , still the Dukes Palace , where they reckon at least 550. Chambers very richly furnished with hangings and bedding , there are 1000. Beds , and many rich Statues ; but before the taking of the City , 't was as they say , more stately and rich , then the Mills only of the City were worth 10000. Sterling a year . Upon occasion this Duke can raise 10000. Foot , but not to keep them very long , and 800. Horse : now the Mantoan Horse is esteemed the best of Italy . There are more Sovereign Princes of this Family , than of any other in Italy , because Duke Alfonso having many Sons , would make every one of them a Sovereign ; therefore by the Emperours consent , some Lands he separated from the Jurisdiction of Mantoa , and others he bought ; so that the Eldest Sonne was Duke of Mantoa , another Prince of Bozzolo , a third Prince of Sabionetta , another Duke di Guastalda , a fifth Duke of Novellara , and a sixth Marquesse of Castiglione della Stivere : but now Sabionetta as a Doury hath been alienated by a Marriage to the House Caraffa in Naples , and since , the Princess of Stigliano of this last Family being married to the Duke Medina de las torres los Velez , brought this State into his Family . The late Duke Charles the 2d . to unite himself the more to the House of Austria , ( for the late Emperour had already married a Princess of his Family ) took one of the Princesses of Insprack to his Wife , but for all this he neither was much trusted to , or rewarded ; the truth is , he was affected to France , whose interests he would not have separated from , if he had not thought himselfe slighted at Paris , and less respected then was the Duke Francis of Modena . This Duke of Mantoa died not long since in the flower of his Age , leaving only a Son of 12 , or 13. years old , who hath succeeded him . He was generally inclined to Women , but in particular to the Countess Margarita di Cazale : He was a great Gamester , and lost much money at Venice : Upon all occasions he was supplyed by a Jew of Mantua , who almost ruled the Dukes Affairs to his own advantage , and to the Princ's loss . Jews are tollerated in Mantoa to the number of above 5000. for which they pay 20000. crowns , or 5000. Sterling a year , the more willingly because they are obliged to no marks of distinction , as they are in all other places . The City of Mantoa , as all others that are consideralile in Italy hath some Virtuosi called Invaghiti , It hath been a maxime of State of these Princes to be united to France , where they had the Dukedoms of Nevers , Rethel , and Mayene which Cardinal Mazarine bought , the last for himself , the other two for one of his Nepews , and also to be united to the Venetians ; to the first , because that King could fall heavy upon the Duke of Savoy , the perpetual and unreconcileable Enemy of his Family ; to the last , because being his next Neighbours , they could assist him upon any occasion . The Friendship which seems to be between this Duke and those of Parma and Modena is not real , by reason some State-differences which happened formerly between them : With the Grand Duke he hath had fallings out about the Precedency of their Ministers : though the Grand Duke hath larger dominions , the others Family hath been more Noble , and is more Antient ; besides the other reason of the enmity is , that the Grand Duke hath several Goods of his for the portion of the Princess Catharina di Medici , married to Duke Ferdinando . But the greatest Enmity of this House , is , against that of Savoy about Monferrat , and other things ; their differences are so great , that no means can be found out to compose them : and here I must not omit to speak of the Treaty of Chierasco in reference to these differences : thereby the Duke of Savoy is put in possession of two good Cities of Monferrat , but some satisfaction is to be given for them to the Duke of Mantoa , therefore the French doth oblige himself to pay the Duke of Mantoa 494000. Crowns of Gold pretended by that House from Savoy for portions ; but for the forenamed Summe , the French is put in possession of Pinarolo , and yet the Duke of Mantoa never asked those Monies , protesting against that Treaty ; so that upon occasion this may happen to be a ground of troubles in Italy . The State of the Duke of Parma . THe Dukedoms of Parma and Piacenze , two of the best Cities of Italy , have been possessed by the Family Farneze above these 122. years , after several revolutions they fell to the Church , and were at last by Pope Paolo tertio , given to Pietro Luigi Farneze his Son born afore he was a Church-man . Charles the 5th Emperour opposed it at first , but after the marriage of Ottavio 2d Duke with his Natural Daughter he approved of it ; besides the Dukedoms of Parma and Piacenza in Lombardy , he hath the Dukedome of Castro , and County of Roncigliont within the Sate of the Church , which the first was pawned to , and for want of paying the monies in the prefixed time , it was united and entailed to the Church , which is the worst that a Turk or a Jew can do a Christian : yet notwithstanding the sufficient reasons to the contrary given by the Duke , that pretended Father of Christians played this unmerciful trick ; and though of late by the means of the French King , this Entail was cut off , as yet they could not bring the Pope to part with it , as he is obliged by the Treaty of Pisa ; so well these Popes agree , the one to get , and the other to keep . Besides this the Duke of Parma hath some Lands in the Kingdome of Naples for the Doury of Margarita of Austria married to Prince Ottavio . This Prince is perpetual Standard bearer of the Church , to which his State is to fall incase he should die without Male Issue . Although he doth homage to the Church for the whole , he is nevertheless absolute for that ; after the homage received , Popes having nothing to do in his dominions . Urban the 8th was a great enemy to this Family ; he took Castro , and had it demolished ; he would have ruinated Odoardo then Duke , and Father to this present , who was a wise and a valiant Prince ; but Italian Princes expressing to be dissatisfied at it , he was obliged to be quiet , having raised upon the Frontires of Parma , that strong place called la Fortezza Urbana . This Family hath given the world some men of great repute , specially him who was Governour of the Low-Countries ; the loss of Castro hath been a great prejudice to the Duke , yet he hath still a matter of 400000. Crowns a year : the Apennini are as a Wall to his State , which joyned to many Rivers , and some strong Holds , makes his Countrey considerable ; he keeps nigh upon 5000. men , but in case of necessity he could bring into the field 20000. Foot , and 1000. Horse , the half he can bring forth without inconveniency ; he hath much Nobility in his dominions , and he is very jealous of them , specially of those of Piacenza , because the first Duke was kill'd there . What manner of Cities are Parma and Piacenza I will not describe , nor the curiosities to be seen in them ; I name nothing , only let this general rule be taken ; in every good City of Italy , one is to see the Churches wherein consists their Glory , their Palaces , Gardens . Houses of pleasure , Cabinets , &c. all which are embelished with Statues , Pictures in Oleo , in Fresco , and Mosaick works , wherein Porphiry , Marble , and such rich materials are often used ; this I say to free my self from making descriptions which might make up a great Volume , I only take notice that in Parma are some Academists , called Innominati . The present Duke Ranuccio , a man of a fat complexion , as yet hath no children , his first Wife being-dead , he is again married to the Sister of the late Duke of Modena , he hath Prince Alessandro Farnese his Brother , who hath been in the service of the Venetians , and came off with some discontent ; at present he serves in Spain . There is now at Rome Cardinal Farneze , but he is not very nigh Kinsman , I am sure he did not act the part of a good Kinsman , when he found out some ways to sell his Principality of Farneze to the Pope for Don Mario for 80000 Crowns , and a Cardinals Cap , excluding thereby the Duke of Parma from that Succession , in case the Branch should fail ; but an Entail having afterwards been found out , the Pope called for his monies , and restored the Principality , however he is Cardinal by the bargain ; the best Palace in Rome is Farneze , built after the direction of Michel Angelo Buonarotta ; and one of the best Countrey-pleasure-houses of Italy , is Caprarola in the County of Ronciglione , belonging to the Duke of Parma . Till of late , since the dayes of Charles the 5th , 't was a constant maxime of State of these Princes to keep close to the House of Austria ; but Odoardo the late Duke being unsatisfied with the Earl and Duke of Olivares , he left that Union , and they have since sided with France , as the fittest power to uphold them in their Quarrels against the Pope , which will be a continual ground of troubles in Italy , and an occasion of bringing the French into it . One thing more is , that these Dukes do more willingly make use of Strangers to be their Ministers when they find them qualified for it , than of their own Subjects . The state of the Duke of Modena . THe Family D'Este , though we put it here last , is much more Antient and Richer than the two former , yet according to that period which is set to Families of Princes , and their Dominions , this hath lost something of its Antient Greatness . They derive their Pedigree from Atto Marquess of Este , who took the Surname , which now his Family keeps , from the City Este , which doth still belong to it : This Married Alda , Daughter to the Emperour Othon the First , in the year , 1000. and had with her , Modena and Reggio . Theobaldo d' Este Othon's Grand-Child , had in the year 1055. Ferrara from Pope John the 12th , which was in the Year , 1598. taken from them by Clement the 8th , after the death of Alfonso the 2d , for want of Lawful Heirs Males : yet there was Cesare d' Este whom Alfonso had from Laura Ferrarese who would have proved that his Father had Married his Mother , and so that he was a Lawful Heir , but the proofs of the Pope who had already taken possession of the place , were the strongest : Yet that Family still pretends to it , affirming they come from a Lawful Heir , though Popes will have him to have been a Natural Son ; and this as to precedency wrongs that Family , for other Princes will not grant them as Dukes of Modena only , what they had as Dukes of Ferrara , although their standing Dukes of Modena be from Barso d' Este , who had the title given him by Frederick the 3d Emperour in the year 1460. The City hath been a great looser by this change , for instead of the Seat of a Court , 't is now made a City of War , and of 80000. soules that were in it under the Dukes , there 's now hardly 20000. However this Duke is still in possession of the Dukedomes of Modena and Reggio , the Principalities of Carpi and Correggio , the Earldome of Roli , and the Lordships of Sassevil , Garfagna and Frignano , by the late Treaty of Pisa ; his dispute with the Pope about the Vallies of Gommachio was decided , being to receive as he did 400000. Crowns for them , 40000. more of damages , and some other advantagious , conditions : all these lands with others which he hath still in the Dukedom of Ferrara , yield him every year full 500000. Crowns ; all his Dominions joyning one to another , makes him the more considerable ; his strength therefore consists in the number of his people ; the only Province Carfagnana is said to contain 80. places walled about ; he hath also several strong Holds ; upon extraordinary Occasions he is able to bring into the field 20000. Foot , and 1000. Horse , and he can without inconveniency keep the halfe of the number , however his Country lies somewhat open to several neighbouring Princes , not for want of good places , of which he hath many , seated at a proportionable and convenient distance one from another , but because that Country lies upon an even ground ; in his Citadel of Modena , are as they say , Armes for 40000. men ; this City is not in repute with other Italians , who call it Modena la pazza . These Princes observe the general maximes of their Neighbours , to have a good correspondency with Venice , which was ever lookt upon as the Protectour of the liberties of Italy : Since the loss of Ferrara they kept close to the Spaniards , but of late their Interest made them change their affections , for Duke Francis was in the late Italian War , made General of the French , and Mazarine's Neece married to Prince Almerigo his Son , who hath left a young Prince to succeed him . At present all things are done after the advice of Cardinal D'Este , Protector of the French Interest at Rome , and the promoter of the late Union of his Family to France ; He is a Prince very active and stirring , who lives at Rome , when he comes there , with greater pomp , and more splendour then any other Cardinal whatsoever ; he is zealous for the French , by whose Friendship his family is much better with monies , being enriched with the late Generalship : So is the Country , for in winter the Head Quarters were in Modena , whereto resorted all the great Officers , and a great number of inferiour ones ; this somwhat helped the poor people to pay those Taxes that are laid so heavy upon them ; at present there is one of their name , and kinsman afar of , Don Carlo D'Este , if I mistake not , a Subject born to the Duke of Savoy , who is a Knight of the Order of the Fleece , whom I have seen attending on the Empress at Alexandria , Pavio , &c. The Duke of Modena hath this advantage above most Princes in Italy , that he hath some of his Subjects who have Feudi Fiefs of the Empire ; we find many great Families in his Dominions , as the rich Earls , di San Paolo , the Bentivogli-Ragoni , Buoncompagni , the Marquesses Spilimbergo , Peppoli ; Gualengo , di Vignola and Gualteri . The Earls Caprari , San Martino , di Molsa , di Maluisia , Montecuculi , Tassoni Ferrarese di Conoscia , and few others ; the present Duke being very young , we have nothing to say as to his person ; and though he were older , we could say of him that which must be spoken of some others , they are reserved , and live retiredly ; so that strangers , for any long while have not free excess to their Courts and Persons . The state of Venice . NOw to go on , I must say something of the Republicks . I do confess I am much at a stand when I see my self obliged to speak of Venice ; the abundance of matter is often to a man a greater hindrance then help , when he must pick out that which is onely fit for his purpose ; to speak well of a Republick esteemed a miracle of Nature , and a Prodigy of Art , the tongue of an Angel is necessary : 'T were too trivial to say , that this Republick was founded above 1246 years ago , by those who from Aqueleia , Padoa , &c. fled from the cruelty of Attila : they were governed by Tribunes till the year , 697. at which time they made a Head called Doge , and they chose San Marco to be their Protectour ; wherefore a Lyon holding a Book , is their Arms , with this Motto , Pax tibi Marce Evangelista . The Government was part Aristocracy , and part Democracy , but at the time when Pietro Gradenigo was Doge in the year , 1280. It was resolved in the Senate , that the Government should hereafter belong to the Nobility alone ; and to avoid oppositions , all the Families that were in some esteem amongst the people , were declared Nobles , as it hath been practised afterwards upon urging occasions , as in the Wars against Genoa , and lately in the Wars against the Turk , 100000. Crowns being paid by every one who is made such , besides that he must be otherwise qualified for it . In the Majesty and perpetuity of the Duke , there is a shadow of Monarchy , but the strength and the Authority resides in the Senate ; their Dominion is of a great extent . In terra ferma they have Dogado , La Marca Trevigiana , Padoano , Vicentino , Veronese , Feltrino , Bellunese , Bresciano , Beragamasco , Cremasco , &c. there is further il Fruili , with many considerable Cities in it , as Udine , Palma , and that strong hold Palma Nova . Istria with four good Cities , and many Lands and places . Out of Italy they have Dalmatia , with the Islands thereto belonging , and the chief Cities of Zara , Clissa : Cataro , and few other places in Albania ; in the Levante , Corfu , Cefalonia , Cerigo , Zante , and some other Islands in the Arcipelago ; and the Sovereignty of all the Golfo from Venice to Otranto , and to la Vallona , which is seven hundred miles in length ; of the Kingdom of Candia , they have nothing but the City . It would require whole Volumes , if one would insist upon the manner of their Government in general , seeing they have been curious to gather the quintessence of all the good Laws and Statutes which antient and modern Republicks had , which they make use of upon occasion : they have above 60. Courts of Judicature , such a diversity being necessary for them to employ so many Noblemen they have . I will hardly mention the Gran ' Consiglio , wherein are usually 1500. Votes , besides other 500. Nobles who are in Offices else-where , either by Land or Sea ; nor the Pregadi composed of ' 200. or thereabouts , or the Collegio , or the Consiglio di Dieci , nor what manner of bus●inesses they treat of : Why should I tell who are the Procuratori di San Marco , Sesteri , tre capi di Quaranta Savi di Mare , Savi di terra , Savi grandi , and so many Officers ; this with an exact description of that Republick , and of all her dependencies I could undertake , if I saw occasion , but 't is a thing that deserves to be by it self , as well as the account of the Forces , and Riches of the Republick , and wherein they consist ; I shall not speak of the City which is full of wonders with antient and modern curiosities , only I shall name the Arsenal , which is certainly the best in Europe , and the Treasure hath many rich and precious stones , however I will not omit to say , that in the City are two sorts of Virtuosi , one is called Discordanti , and the other Gussoni . I must come to something of the political part of that Government , but before , I must name some of the Chief Families of that Republick . I believe the number of the Nobles exceeds that of 3500. though 40. or 50. Families with their friends and relations , whose leaders they are do govern the whole , the most considerable of these are Contarini , now Doge , Sagredo , Corraro , Capello , Moccenigo Morosini , Cornaro , Gradenigo , Grimani , Querini , Loredano , Marcello , Pesaro , Giustiniano , Foscari , Bembo , Delfini , &c. Now I proceed , the Venetians take a great care to have their young men instructed in those things which concern their Republick ; in part to this effect they have found out such a variety of employments , to the end that applying themselves to these , they may in time be fitter to administer those of a higher nature , so that there is hardly any one without some employment suitable to his Genius and Capacity ; they also have an usual way to speak familiarly of policy , so that after a long use , and earnest application , and an often hearing of those who understand things well , they must needs make improvement in it . The Venetians also most of any Italians do travel abroad , and hardly an Ambassadour ever goes to any place , but he is attended by some of the young Nobles , who go to learn the politick part of the Government of the Countrey which the Ambassadour is sent to ; and that which is the chief , to the end that the Senate may be instructed of the present state of affairs of any Court , we may observe that almost everywhere they have Ambassadours ( not mattering what charges they come to ) who all the time of their residence , by a constant Intelligence do acquaint the council with every particular thing that falls out in the Court they live at ; who not only leave instructions to those who succeed them in the place , but who also when they come home , are obliged to make in Pregadi , a full relation of the state wherein stands the Court whence they come . One thing above all , which I find extraordinary , is that secresie so inviolably observed amongst them , that amongst so many heads there should be no tongue , nay there have been those who were present at the Council , when violent resolutions were taken against some friend or relation of theirs ; they have conversed with them after that , and yet never discovered any thing . Publick Ministers of Princes who reside there , do confess it is more difficult to penetrate into those results made sometimes by above 1500. men , than into those which are made by three or four : 'T is true , this is look't upon as a part of their wisdome , that publick affairs are communicated to all , for then when the resolutions they have taken , require secresie , they think themselves obliged to observe it , though it were only upon this account that they are true and faithful to themselves . Thus their general aime is , or at least their Laws tend to maintain peace , union , and liberty . We must not wonder therefore if this Republick is come to such a height , and maintains herself in it , with the excellency of her Counsil , the observation of the Laws , the gravity of manners and customes , and the common desire of maintaining liberty with a severe punishment of all innovations which could disturb the publick peace . Laws ought not to be Despotick or Arbitrary , nor after the suggestions of sycophants , and the byassed parasites , but inconformity to those of the great Law giver ( who though he have an absolute and unlimitable right and power over all , yet he is often times graciously pleased to give reasons of what he doth ) they ought to be grounded upon Justice , Reason , and Equity , and to tend to the publick good , which should be the end of all civil and municipal laws , and not to be turned into private Channels , to run to particular ends , which hapning , let him look to 't who bears not the Sword without cause , for all private ends ought to be subservient to the publick interest : to this effect , when first all men contracted Societies , and united themselves in Corporations , they knew well they could not subsist without order , which can never be observed without Laws , tending to protect the good in the enjoyment of that peace and quietness they desire , & to terrifie the evil with those punishments threatned them , in case the , go about to disturb it . And the truth is , that such Laws being enacted , they look to future ages more than to that time wherein they are made , because those who made them being free agents , and entring willingly ; and with their own accord into such Societies as every one of them had a hand in the passing of the Laws , if not in the framing , at least in the approving and confirming of the same ; for that which is to be above all , as Laws are , is to be made by the consent of all ; So 't is to be supposed they would not break the Lawes which they made themselves , upon grounds of Reason and Justice ; Hence it is , that as they have made use of the Legislative Power they had , and that they have bound themselves to the execution of them , which being once done , the bond cannot be loose or untied but by the general consent , and in such a case it may be done according to the maxime , that he who makes the Law , can disanul it ; ( but it must be the whole Legislative Power ) for as grounds and reasons sometimes do alter , so may the Laws accordingly , because as a Law doth not sute in all places , so neither at all times , neither may they be allowed , but as much as they conduce to the publick good , which as I said , before is the end for the which they were roade ; but if they turn to be destructive to these ends for the which they were made , they ought certainly to be abrogated and made void ; and this shews that every Law is not of the nature of those of the Persisians and Medians , which might not be altered ; but because the life of the Law doth not so much consist in the Legislative Act , but specially in the executive part , not only in wisdome , but also in powers therefore they who made the Lawe do appoint those who are to see them executed ; and because at first Law-givers could not foresee all cases and accidents which might fall out , there is a certain power reserved to interpret , to explain and to amplifie those Laws , yet upon this condition that sense shall be given to the words of the Law which is most conducing to the end of the Law , that is , to the publick good : For those rules that are imposed by Conquerours as such , and do deserve the name of Laws , but are only despotick orders and commands ; the Conquerour after his Victory imposes what he pleaseth upon the Conquered ; sometimes nothing but Martial and Arbitrary Laws , as it is this day practised in the Turkish Empire , for as he hath gotten it , so he must keep it either by force or fraud ; this is by virtue of a right used between wild beasts , who will tear or spare those that are weaker than themselves . The Laws of Venice , which are the occasion of this discourse , abhor these last , and are of the nature of the former , the happiness which they have enjoyn'd under them , do highly declare the wisdome of their Law-givers . I believe it were of no little use , if every Countrey were acquainted with the same ; I altogether for bear speaking of them that are common and ordinary , one kind excepted , which is very beneficial , and might prove so to other Countries , being introduced therein , I mean the sumptuary Laws against excess in Clothes , Jewels , Equipage , &c. which though vain and superficial things do consume & wast the state & substance of many ; the servant is not to be known by his cloaths from his Master ; and of these how many have we who are more sollicitous of getting Perriwigs , gaudy Cloathes , and the like , than careful to acquire knowledge , virtue and experience , not knowing that those things are borrowed , and not their own , which make no difference between an honest man and the vilest wretch in the world , however they are satisfi'd with the shew , and are like those Apples that grow about the Lake of Sodom , which have a fair shew , but have nothing within , blow upon them and they fly into dust and ashes . As there is a difference of quality in persons , so there should be some distinction in cloathes , or the like ; the very Stars shew greater brightness some than others . Men should strive to goe one beyond another , not in clothes but in virtue , and good quality . But I 'le leave this discourse , not for want of matter , one who hath but common sense and reason could have much to say upon 't , but because I avoid to be accounted too censorious and critical , and that some times every truth must not be spoken , or when it is odium parit : but to come to my subject , I say , 't is not so in Venice , they minde more solid and substantial things than these , and they practise certain refined maximes , which I have observed . First , their Doges may not ally themselves to any forreign Princes , to preveni receiving from abroad Councils tending to the destruction of liberty at home . Neither is it lawful for any of the Nobles to converse with any forreign Ministers , or any one that hath any relation to them , or to keep communication with them by way of letters , or any other direct or indirect way , to remove all occasions of being bribed , and so of betraying the State or their Councils ; for this cause 12. or 13. years agoe was put to death one of the Family of Carnaro , it being found out that he had been several times at the lodging of the Spanish Ambassadour . Further , as they know that the greatness of the Republick comes from their power upon the Seas ; so all the Nobles apply themselves specially to Sea Affairs : as for Land service they usually take strangers of known valour and experience out of Germany , Italy , and other places . To preserve union between the Nobles and the people , and that these may have where to apply themselves ; the Noble ; do not roeddle with publick Schools , or ruling of Parochial Churches , or the like ; and more than this , the direction of the Chancery of the Republick , which is a high dignity that hath the ordering of all publick expeditions , and the Secretaries places are ever given to some of the people , to whom also they allow liberty of fishing , coursing , shooting , and the like , there being no propriety in things of this nature , and that they may yet the more get the love and affection of the people , they converse together in Walks , Play-houses , Gaming-places , and upon all occasions and meetings ; so also they take Citizens Daughters to be their Wives : yet for all this the Nobles are so far from hindring , that rather they encourage the divisions which are in the City of Venice of one part against another , that is , between the Castellani and Nicolotti , who use to meet specially in the Month of September , upon the Bridge of St. Barnabas , which they flock to in great numbers , and the Nobles who happen to be there do encourage every one of those of his side ; there they Kick and Cuff one another , but have no Armes : this to some is an eff●ct of animosity , to others ' a sport , to others a shew , and to all a diversion from other things . Upon this account , they suffer the insolencies of Scholars at Padoa with their Chi va li at night to keep a division between them and the Citizens , who also are looked upon as a factious people . Another maxime which they have , is to keep the scales even between warring Princes , specially in Italy , as they have done in the wars of Milan , to preserve the Publick Liberty , that one Prince do not grow too potent by the loss of another ; but a thing which they study most of all , is , to know the Genius , Customes , Strength , and to find out the Designes of all Princes and Republicks , by which diligence many a time they have found out and avoided great dangers impending over themselves and others . But a very useful maxime they have , and which is very wise , it is ever to hearken after peace , and fit themselves constantly for war : Afore they were involved in this last with the Turk , their policicy was by all means to avoid a falling out with so dreadful an Enemy ; but it seems at this time providence hath made use of the perfidiousness of those of Candia , and of the Turks ambition , to make this maxime to be null and void . But to withdraw from this Ocean , I will say , that out of policy they suffer the delayes of doing Justice , and the tedious proceedings at Law , to keep people in exercise , and the Courts of Justice in credit : By the same reason they are so severe in punishing faults against the State upon all sorts of persons ; and to avoid Innovations and Disorders ; contrariwise , they be very remiss to those which proceed from humane frailty : So 't is to punish more rigourously the faults of the Nobles , than those of the people , to the end that the former do not grow insolent , nor these last discontented . Further they are careful to maintain their priviledges to Provinces and Cities , that they may continue in their Loyalty and affection . Lastly , 't is a part of their Justice , as of their policy , not to punish the crime of the Fathers upon the Children , nor e Converso , the person only which is guilty suffering . I have one thing more to say before I leave it : Of all States in Italy this of Venice hangs loose from the Pope most of all , therefore they meddle not in the Court of Rome , neither do they care to bestow Pensions upon Cardinals to have a favourable Election , & indeed 't is not much material to them , seeing they extend their Jurisdiction upon all Regular & Ecclesiastical persons within their Dominions , notwithstanding the endeavours of several Popes to the contrary : and they have good Laws to bridle the power of Popes within their State , as I will instance only in two Cases ; the first is , though the Inquisition be amongst them , yet they have taken away its sting , there being constantly three of the wisest and more moderate Senators named to be present at their Consultations ; and it is further ordered , that nothing shall be resolved in it , except there be present one of these Senators , who qualifies things , reduces them to moderation , and in case of extremity telling , the Senate must be acquainted with such and such things . The Second Case is , the nomination which Popes make , of whom they think fit to some , Church-livings and benefices within their State , the Pope pretends he hath right so to do , which they deny ; however because they will not openly cross him , they have found out an indirect way , which is this , there is an Order , that no man whosoever shall be put in possession of any Benefice by virtue of any Grant or Nomination from the Pope , except the same be first approved of by the Council , so that the Patent being brought to the Council , there it lies till either the person who had it , or the Pope who granted it , be dead , which maxime now being known , none of their Subjects will be at the charges and trouble to Sue at Rone for any such thing . The wisest amongst them laugh at the pretended Authority and Jurisdiction which Popes arrogate to themselves within the limits of their Republick : he may ( say they ) play Rex at Rome , and have his Patriarchal Churches , namely St. Peter representing the Patriarch of Constantinople ; St. Paul of Alexandria , St. Mary the greater of Antiochia , St. Laurance without the walls of Jerusalem , and set over these four , St. John of Lateran , representing the Pope , who is over all ; but say they , such liberty is not allowed him in the States of other Princes . From time to time there hath been Quarrels between Popes and this Republick ; Paul the fifth's Excommunication is not yet forgotten there , nor the Principles of padre Paolo , and padre Fulgentio rooted out ; though the Gospel be not taught there in publick , one may hear it sometimes in private . 'T is true , of late the Jesuites were re-admitted there , but meer necessity of State obliged them to it , though their re-admission was carried on but by few Balls or Votes , the late Popes Letter earnestly entreating them to do it , and saying , that if he could have gone in person to ask it , he would have done it , was not so efficacious as the promise of keeping 3000 men at his own charges in Dalmatia , for theservice of the Republick ; and upon occasion the use of his Gallies , with some other advantages : however , they are still odious in that City to all sorts of people , and a small matter will send them out again : In a private Conversation between the late Popes and a Venetian Ambassadour then at Rome , upon the question moved by the Pope , Where was their Title to the Soveraignty of the Gulf ? the other answered him smartly , 'T is upon the back of Constamines donation ; this shews somthing in the bottom of the Venetian hearts not favourable to Rome , whence they have received so many grounds of displeasure ; We have seen of late how much trouble a Nuncio of the Popes at Venice was like to have raised between the Duke and Senate about the Barigello , who had seized certain of the Nuncio's Servants when they had done some insolencies , though he said he knew not they were his Servants , and though things had been composed so , that the Barigello should not appear in the Church of St. Mary , where the Nuncio was to be till the last holy day of Christmass , yet upon that very day against the agreement , within the Church the Nuncio prevailed with the Duke to order him to go out , whereat the whole Senate were highly incensed that the Duke would do such a thing without their advice : and now the late grudge about the turning of the Channel of the Po another way , might produce somthing , were it not for the War of Candia , however there remains a cause of falling out hereafter . The state of Genoa . BUt 't is time to speak of Genoa , formerly the dangerous Rivall of Veuice ; History shews us the several & great Revolutions of Government in this City ; it was by Charles the Great made an Earldom , and under one of their Earls won the Island Corfica from the Saracens ' , afterwards they became a Republick , they asked the Protection of Charles the sixth King of France , and having rejected this , they submitted to the Duke of Millan , and then would have withdrawn from his Obedience , but he being too hard for them , they were kept under till the days of Andrea Doria , who having pacified the intestine divisions , instead of making himself Prince of it , as some think he might have done , he got them the liberty wherein they stand at present : This Republick is no more now what it hath been , that Genoa which hath formerly been so potent at Sea , as to beat the Venetians , take one of their Dukes prisoners , as they did in 1258. run victorious up and down , taking several Cities belonging to them , and block up Venice it self . Furthermore , in the year 1337. they Conquered the Kingdome of Cyprus , took the King and Queen prisoners , but restored them upon certain conditions ; the reason is , because though the Countrey be the same , yet that people hath exceedingly degenerated ; in those days every one minded the publick good , and the honour of the Nation , but now every one seeks his private ends and interests , let what will become of the publick , which is a meer folly , for when the publick goes to wrack , particular men cannot thrive very long ; but if all particular men strive together to promote the publick , as they are members of that body , so they will find the benefit of it ; when we have seen in the Roman Commonwealth men sacirfice States , Friends , Relations and Lives for the Republick , when nothing was so dear to them , but they could part with it for the good and safety of the Republick , then were all things in a flourishing condition , but when they began to seek their own , and every one to set up for himself , all things began to totter : How can the parts be saved , if the whole perish ? The Bees and the Ants natural instinct goes beyond some Mens reason , they may be Hyerogliphicks to us , and their example teach us to be publick spirited Men , but it seems the Genoesi are not so . This Republick is in possession of what was formerly called Liguria , now 't is Riviera di Genoa , from the City of Genoa to Porto di Luna , is called , la Riviera di Levante , or of the East , and from Genoa to Monaco 't is Rivieradiponente of the West , which makes 150. miles in length , though the breadth is hardly above 25. in any place : 't is true , that upon the ponente is Finale belonging to the Spaniarols , and three places to Savoy , but withal beyond Monaco it hath St. Remy and Ventimiglia ; towards Milan they have Gavi with a strong Castle , and Novi not so good as the other ; they have also the Island Corsiea : Formerly Trade did much flourish in Genoa , but now Legorn hath spoiled it , as Genoa had spoiled that of Savona , they suffered extreamly by the late great plague that was there ; so that to make themselves amends , and to keep up Trade , they have thought fit to bring in the Jews , by whose means they hope in time to bring Trading back again from Legorn ; but others are in expectation to hear how they will agree , for between a Jew and a Genoese ( setting aside baptism ) there 's no difference ; and if they do 't will pass for a wonder . But not to be tedious upon this , I say , that although the City be very fair , and the Palaces stately , it is inhabited by men , then whom ( few excepted ) there cannot be worse , this is the opinion which all other Italians have of them : There goes a story , ( which how true 't is I will not dispute ) that when the Grand Duke first of all made Livorno a free Port , he gave leave of Trading in 't to all Nations , as English , French , and to all Merchants , even out of Turkey , Anch ' ai Genoesi , having named several Nations , amongst whom there were Infidels ; those of Genoa are put the last , as being the worst of all . Indeed they are proud , revengeful in an extraordinary way , and enemies to strangers , though out of that City they goe almost into all parts . I do not think there is a City in Italy where more mischief is done than in this , one hears of it almost every day : In the way of Trade they are very skilful , yet so interessed , that there are those in it who could prefer one 5 s. to twenty lives ; their temper is such , that they cannot agree with any sort of people , nay , not so much as amongst themselves ; their unsettledness appears in this : from Earles they came to Consuli , from these to Potesta , then to Capitani , to Governatori , Luoghitenenti Rettori di populo , Abbati di populo , reformatori , protectori , duchi Nobili , and duchi Popolari . Civil Divisions ever regarded amongst them , for they are no sooner come under one sort of Government , but they wished for another . When Francis the first heard they would desire his Protection ; Let them go to Hell , said he , for I am not willing to needdle with such people . The Italian Proverb of them is , Mare senzapesci , they have Seas without Fish , Montagne senzalegno , Mountains and no Woods , Huomini senza fede , Men without faith , and Donne senza vergogna , women without shame ; yet some brave men are come out of it . The Government is Aristocratical , with a Doge , only for two years , who with the 8 Governatori , is called the Signoria , then the little Council of 100 men , and the great of 400. they have also the Sindici Over-seers of the actions of Governours , as Censors were at Rome : the Doge hath a Guard , which he of Venice hath not ; their Forces are much decayed from what they were , when they reduced Venice to an extremity ; still they continue to be good Sea-Souldiers , and keep eight Gallies , which do dispute the hand with those of Maltha , but they are not esteemed by Land. 'T is a thing which will seem an extravagancy , yet 't is a truth , that there hath been persons , and there are now Families in Genoa , more esteemed abroad than is the Republick it self , and some are as rich , if not richer , who keep Gallies of their own . The Republick hath not above 200000 Crowns a year , because part of the Dominion , and of the Revenue , doth belong to the company of St. George , which is , as it were another Republick within that ; yet some make the yearly Income greater ; but confess that it doth not exceed the Charges . Silks are the Staple Commodity , which they work very well in Velvet , Plush , Satin , Taby , Taffitie , and the like Silk-works , which they send into all the Northern parts of Europe . St. George is their Champion , and the Red Cross is their Coat of Armes . The City as 't is usual with Republicks , draws the best of the Land to it self , and hath destroyed the trading of other places , as Savona to advance its own ; In it are a sort of Virtuosi , who call themselves Addormentatis the City is not strong . The great secret of State of this Republick hath been to keep Herself United to , and depend upon Spain since Charles the fifth ; and Philip the 2d of Spain to keep them to her self , hath borrowed vast sums of monies , and assigned Lands in Naples and Milan for the payment ; so that they must keep fair with the Spaniard , for fear of loosing the Principal ; on the other side , as the King of Spain hath occasion of them , in relation to Finale and Milan not to loose them , he allows very great use for this money , so that they are even , and think to have over-reached one another ; most of the monies which are currant being Spanish Coine , it shews there hath been very great dealings between them . However now the Spaniard hath much lost the Great Authority he had first amongst them , for formerly they so far depended upon him , that they might not receive within their City the Embassadour of any Prince but his own , who might come as he did often into the Consultations of the Senate ; but now there is no such matter ; they being exposed to so many alterations , there are no fixed nor constant maximes of policy among them . I think 't is a Republick great by Name , but small in Srtength , despised by her Superiors , hated of her Equals , and envied by her Inferiors , which doth subsist only because one Neighbour would not have another to get it , the Interest of every one being to have it remain in a third hand ; Genoa is very jealous of two of her Neighbours , Savoy and Toscany , of the former , who hath aimed and attempted to bring her under his Yoake ; of the latter , by reason of his pretentions to Sarzana , which formerly belonged to Florence , and of both , because she is odious to both , and that upon the account of State , and of private interest , they wish to see her brooght low . In it are many Noble and Rich Families , as Doria , of which are the Marquess of Toreglia , Prince of Melfy , of the branch of Andre Doria , and the Duke of Tursi ; Spinola the Marquess , and de Duke of Sestri , Marquess de los Balbases , a Spanish Title , because a Grandee of Spain ; other Families are Fieschi , Grimaldi , Giustiniani , Pallavicini , Cibo , Carrieri , Imperiale , and some others . Now the Marquess Hyppolito Centurione with his Ships and Gallies , is entred into the French service . Of the state of Luca. I See I do fall from an Ocean into Rivers , yet there is water enough for me to swim in , in some places , if not every where . You will not be troubled with hearing a long enumeration of places and Dominions ; yet 't is to be admired of the places I am now to speak of , not how they can preserve themselves ; this the jealousie between , and the interest of their Neighbours , joyned with watchfulness on their side , doth for them ; but how formerly in times of conquest they could free their necks from the yoke of their potent Neighbours . Luca is one of these places which hath sometimes been possessed by the Goths , the Emperours of Constantinople , the Faseoli , Castrucci , Spinoli , by the Family Della Scala , by the Fiorentini , Pisani , and by one Carlo of Bohemia , who having made a Bishop Governour of it , this Bishop received 25000 Crowns , and left them the liberty they are now in , their Dominion is extended upon few Mountains , not much inhabited , upon the top of which they have some strong holds , as Monte Ignoso , Castiglione , Minuoiano , with Camagiore and Via Reggio upon the Sea ; but the best they have is the City well seated , people'd , and fortified with the territory belonging to it , which produces abundance of Olives , the best of Italy ; and the industry of the Inha bitants about Silk-works makes the City flourish and grow rich , every one in it hath something to live upon ; there are in it a matter of 10 Families esteemed at least worth 20000 Crowns a year ; others to the number of 30 have some 15000 , some 10000 a year , and above 60 have been between 4 and 5000 ; the yearly Income of the Commonwealth comes to not much above 100000 Crowns , with a treasure they have esteemed a Million , with certain Plate and Jewels , which upon occasion might bring in some monies . They are governed by a Council of 150 of the chief Citizens , the City is divided into three parts , which they call Tertieri , out of every one of which the General Council doth Elect three men , in all , Nine , called Senators , who joyned with the Gonfaloniero their head are called la Signoria : The Senators do command by turns every three dayes , the Gonfaloniero hath a bare Title , and nothing but the precedency above the rest , he is himself commanded by the Senators ; he keeps his place but two months , then another is chosen , but within that time he may not go out of the Palace under pain of death : As for Warlike affairs they are in a good condition upon the defensive , their listed Militia's are of 18000 men , besides the City contains 30000 Inhabitants , and is constantly Guarded by 300 good Souldiers , whereof 200 are born in the City , and have the keeping of the Gates , Walls , and other places , the other 100 are all strangers , born 50 miles at least from the City ; amongst them they admit no Florentine ; their Captain is a Stranger too , the Palace is committed to their Guard , and under pain of death they may not come nigh the Walls . The City keeps a constant provision of mouth , and ammunition of War for whole 7. years ; their few strong Holds are well provided , and their Souldiers well paid , which is the onely way to keep them upon duty and obedience ; so that their care , and the plenty of their Territory about the City do supply the narrowness and littleness of it : In a word , if they come short of other Princes and Republicks , as to the extent of dominions they have great advantages above them another way . First , they are not revengeful , as all the rest of Italians are , they casily forgive offences received , which doth argue the goodness of their nature , upon this account they are a proverb to other Italians , Riceve gli affronti come un ' lucbese . 2dly , their women are very modest , and inclined to chastity , and their young men sober and temperate , some out of a Natural inclination , and others by virtue of the good order kept amongst them : for 24 men , known to be of a good Life and Conversation are chosen out of the Council to be inspectors over the manners of Youth , ( this they call consigliodi discoli ) specially of deboist persons , and every time they meet , which happens once a year , every one puts in his Bill with the names of those whom he hath found and observed to be unruly ; and if the name of one be put in the little Box by the two thirds , that is by sixteen ; herein is his sentence conteined of 3 years banishment , he must go out of the City the next day after he hath had warning , and within 3 dayes after out of the State : So that by the observation of these good Orders , God fits them the better for conversion and reformation , after the reading of Scriptures , which they are much inclined to : hence it is , that we have seen so many families leave Luca and go to Geneva to enjoy the liberty of the Gospel , and to make an open profession of the truth : after these commendations 't were superfluous to say , they have also amongst them two sorts of Virtuosi , the one called Oscari and the other Freddi . They might boast of the antiquity of their City , which was built by Lucamon King of Toscany , but they have a greater advantage which they glory in , that this is the first City of Toscany , which received the Christian Faith ; though they be united amongst themselves , they are not sometimes without troubles at home , caused by the pride of their Clergy which is so far protected by Popes , that Urban the 8th for their sake excommunicated the Republick . This people is Civil to Strangers , and very courteous to those who come into the City , yet so watchful over them , that they have the council Della Vigilanza to know what they come for , whence they come , and whether they go , not allowing them to wear swords in the streets without a special leave , yet they give them liberty to walk upon the Moat , by the Walls , and to view the same ; in this City , the tongue is spoken in the purity of it . All their maximes of State are onley about the defensive part , and how to preserve themselves from their great Neighbour the Gran ' Duke , who would be glad to bring Toscany to her old limits that way , wherefore the Republick hath a strict correspondency with Genoa , which fears the same ; however as I have observed , one Neighbour would cross another , if any thing was design'd against Luca : their care hath provided against open attempts , they being in a readiness to oppose them , all what they must do , is to take heed of surprisals . The state of San Marino . SAn Marino is , I believe , the least Republick of Europe , when the Empire was transferred out of Italy into Germany ; this City , with some others made her self a Republick ; it lies on the West of the Dukedome of Urbino , under whose Dukes protection it remained , till this State fell to the Church , so that now it is shut up within the Popes Lands , and under their protection , yet some of them , specially the late Alexander the 7th , have done what they could by promises and fair means to make their Nephews Princes of it , but she would not part with her liberty ; and though the Pope could easily force them to it , yet he dares not , it being certain that the Venetians , and the Grand Duke would oppose him in it , specially now when Italian Princes do dislike Novelities and Innovations : when this Republick hath written to Venice , she hath called her Carissima Sorella , very dear Sister , a weak one indeed , for having but the City , and two or three Villages besides , her strength and riches are but small , which must be supplyed with their care of themselves , and watchfulness over their Neighbours . Of the Petty Principalities THis is all as I think , that needs be said upon the subject of great Princes , and Republicks of Italy . I must therefore now speak to the Petty Princes , or rather continue it , for the last Republick I have mentioned may have her place amongst these , rather than amongst the great ones : But I desire not to be mistaken , when I call some petty Princes , 't is not to be understood , as if they depended from others , and were not Sovereignes , for every way they act as such : In their Lands there is no appeal from their sentence , they dispose of Life and Death , as well as the greatest Princes , they Coyn , or may Coyn monies , Elect Officers , make Laws , and when there is occasion for it , they treat of Peace and Warre . I call them Petty Princes , because their States are but small in comparison of those whom I call great ones . 'T is true , that there are very many who have the name of Princes , who are not Sovereigns , but are Subjects to others ; the number of these all Italy over is between 75 and 80 ; between 90 and 100 have the titles of Dukes , and of Marquesses and Earls , there are above 500 ; but I speak onely of Sovereigns . The Duke of Della Mirandola is one of this sort ; the City La Mirandola is seated upon the confines of Modena towards the River Po ; the family Pico , one of the most antient and famous of Italy , have been Lords of it , and of Concordia since the year , 1110 till now ; that line failed in the year , 1637 , and therefore another was invested of it by the Emperour . Of this sort are also the Princes of Bozzolo , and of Sabionetta , the Dukes of Guastalda , and of Novellara , and the Marquess of Castiglione ; all within the State of Mantoa , as we said before , they have been such for these 100 years past , and are all of the family Gonzaga , he of Sahionetta excepted , which in the year 1540 was given with a Daughter , and Heir to General Caraffa , and now in the hands of a Spaniard . The principality of Monaco is another , this is a strong City by Nature , seated upon the Mediterranean , between Nizzadi , Provenza and Genoa , this makes the Prince more considerable than any other of his sort ; there is an indifferent harbour ; the way up to it is very steep and difficult , and several Guards to speak with , before one can get to it . At the comming in there is a broad place with a prospect as pleasant as can be ; within few miles from it , is another place , good enough , called Menton , depending from the said principality : there was in Monaco a Spanish Garrison , but the late Prince having partly by a stratagem , and partly with help from the French driven it out , he desired the French protection , and now there is in it a French Garrison , he is Duke de Valentionis , and Peer of France , whose coin is currant in that Kingdom . This Princes family is Grimaldi , who derive their pedegree from Grimald , Son of Pipin King of Austrasia , and Brother to Charles Martel : this Pipin as they say , gave the Lordship to Grimald , in the year 713. but they were declared Princes in the year , 1411. Cardinal Grimaldi yet living , and brother to the late Duke , was in great part the occasion of the admitting in of the French , induced to it by the persecution which the Barberini suffered from the Pope at the secret instigations of Spain , and by the protection which the French gave to that family , whose passionate creature this Grimaldi is , and also by the interest he hath gotten in France , to be Arch-bishop of Aix , and other good benefices he enjoys : He is of an active spirit , therefore he hath been much spoken of at Rome ; their family , or a branch of it is named amongst the greatest in Genoa , where some of the name are admitted to the highest charges : the present Prince of Monaco is not much passed twenty five , he hath married Marshall Grammonts Daughter , who prefers the pleasure of Paris , to the Soveraignty of Monaco . Massa is in Toscany , seated part ' of it at the bottom of a great Mountain , part upon the Mountain , and highest of all is the Princes Castle , yet he is a building a Palace in the lower Town , and 't is almost finished ; this is but a Post from Sarzana : The family Malaspina possessed it along while , till by the marriage of Ricarda Malaspina , with Lorenzo Cibo , it came to this family , because she was the Heir of it : They were Marquesses till the year , 1499. at which time Innocent the 8th of the same family being Pope , Alberico Cibo , was by the Emperour Maximilian made Prince of the Empire . Bonifacius the 9th was of the same family , which coming from Grecia , where they had possessed some Islands , Principalities , and other Territories , they seated in Genoa , there is a Cardinal of the name and family . Massarana is in Monferrat , not far from Veroelli , this Principality hath been in the hands of the family Scala , but in the 1568. 't was bought from them by the Ferreri , who are at present in possession of it . Upon 15 miles from Genoa is another Sovereignty , the Marquesate of Torreglia , it was given by Charles the 5th to Andrea Doria , who had left the service of Frances the first King of France , and done many eminent services to the Emperour ; the same family doth also enjoy the principality of Melfey in the Kingdom of Naples , but not in Sovereignty : This family Doria hath for 500 years been esteerned in Genoa , one of the most noble , if not the first of that Republick : The head of the family is young at present there are two branches of it flourishing in Genoa , who hath each of them a stately Palace , though one is more antient and more sumptuous than the other . Another principality is , Piombine , in the Island Alba , whereof part belongs to the Grand Duke , as Cosmopoli , &c. Prince Ludoviso hath it now , it was bought for his Father by his Uncle Gregory the 15th of the same family ; not long since the Princes Father died in Sardegna , where he was Vice-King for Spain , having layed before noble and stately foundations of a Palace in Piazza Colonna at Rome . This Prince underwent his Fathers displeasure unto the time of his death by reason of a strong passion he had for a mean person in the Island : At present there is Cardinal Ludoviso great Penitentiere of the Roman Church , which is one of the most eminent dignities of it : he is of Bologna of this Family by the side of late Prince Ludovisio's Mother ; he is a man of no considerable parts . Speaking of this sort of Princes , I say nothing of Strength , Riches and Policy , things so inconsiderable with them , that they are to be not so much as mentioned ; all are under the protection of those within whose dominions their principalities stand , or of some other ; the inconsiderableness of others , and the affection of their few Subjects are a security to them , and happy are they if satisfied with their condition ; they are free of fears and of ambition ; as they have little , so they have little to care and to answer for ; they have the satisfaction to command , and not be commanded , and enjoy what sweetness there is , giving Law , without being exposed to the inconveniencies of it . But now we must come to those principalities which are seated within the state of the Church , and first to those which belong to the family Colonna , now divided into two branches , one of which hath the Principality of Carbognana , whose eldest Son hath married his Sister , who is at present the head of the other branch , whereof however the late Cardinal Colonna , who died at Finale , attending on the Empress , and who was Protector of the Empire , was the chief , and with his frugality acquitted the debts , and cleared the state of his family : his Nephew Don Lorenzo Colonna ( who hath married the Mancini , one of Mazarins Neeces ) commonly called Contestabila Colonna , because he is High Constable of the Kingdome of Naples , is now the head of that branch , a man whose Inclination agrees better with the French than with the Spanish temper ; yet he must keep fair with these by reason of his place , and of the Land he hath in Naples : his free and frequent conversation with the Duke of Crequi Ambassadour to Rome , gave the Spaniards much jealousie , some think he left Rome in part upon this account but the aversion he had for the late Popes family by reason of some discontents he had received from them , was a sufficient ground to oblige him to leave Rome for two years time , as he did lately ; he is a man who lives in his pleasure , yet he hath so High and so Noble a spirit , that he could not stoop to the Popes Kinsmen , as few others did ; he hath a brother called Don Domenico Colonna , and is Sovereign of Pagliano and Prince of Marini , the antiquity of his family is well known : their Arms are a Colonna , or a Pillar , crowned because Stefano Colonna the Roman Senator did crown Lewis of Bavaria Emperour , in the year 1260. they say they come from Columnius an antient Roman . The Rival , and antient Enemy of this family hath been Casa Ursini , most Noble and very antient , of which was that proud Nicholas the 3 d ; this family hath been much decayed in her state , though of late 't was somewhat restored by the means of some rich Matches made with other families , which yet for want of Children may at last prove disadvantagious : Their Palace at Rome in Monte Jordano is very antient : the eldest of the family is now Cardinal Ursini Protector of Poland , Portugal , and Com-protector of the French Interest at the Court of Rome ; a man of no extraordinary parts , who not long since was obliged to take a journey to Paris to pacifie that Court , angry with him for not acting according to directions in the business of Crequi at Rome ; and therefore had taken from him his pension of 5000 Crowns a year , and bestowed it upon Cardinal Aldobrandini , who being dead , Ursini posts away to Paris , and obtains his desire , the head of this family is now the Duke of Bracciano , who is also Conte di Petiglione , two Soveraignties belonging to the family by an antient gift of some Popes for services done to the Church ; this Duke is the head of the antient Nobility of Rome , as all other Roman Princes do , he stands much upon the points or punctillio's of ceremonies ; hence it is , that lately he had a kind of a Broglio , or falling out with Cadinal Sforza , though some think it was not so much his fault as the Cardinals ; he hath a younger Brother , called Don lelio Ursini Prince of Vic●varo . Another antient family is that of Cezarini Duke of the name , and Prince of Fansano , and of Ardea he derives his pedigree from the Cezars , the family , as to a Male Issue , is like to be extinct : the late Duke , a man of 50000 crowns a year could afford his Cook 4Giulius , two shillings for his dinner , and no more . He appeared so high for the French in the business of Crequi , out of an enmity he had for the Popes Relations , that he was obliged to retire into the Kingdom of Naples till the peace was made ; he was one of those whom Italians call Matti porta a casa , he died lately , and left three or four Daughters in Monasteries , who had made no profession ; his brother the Abbot Cezarini hath succeeded him , a man of a most loose and dissolute life ; when I came from Rome he was upon marrying a Lady of Milan , without hopes on his side , by reason of his former deboistness of having any Children ; yet with what he had before he is worth 60000 Crowns a year . Rignano is a Principality belonging to the Duke Muti , of a very antient family , for they derive themselves from Mutius Scevola , and a proof of it is the possession of Campi Mutii , wherein Porsenna was encamped , given by the Senate to Mutius and his posterity : The present Duke is not married , though he begins to be antient , he hath much squandered his state with Gaming and Women , he hath a brother a Prelate , and another called Marquess Muti , a very ingenious person to my knowledge , and of good parts , their Palace as that of the forenamed family is in Rome . I will make no further mention of the Sovereignty of Farneze , I said what was fit to be known of it speaking of the Duke of Parma , the Cardinal of that name is Prince of it . I will only name the Marquess di Monte another Sovereign , and the Noble Family of Caetani who have a stately Palace at Rome . Of this Family is the Prince of Caserta , who for an unhappy business was obliged to fly from Rome , where he was lookt upon as the best qualified of all other Princes , as to his personal worth . Pope Clement the 8th a Florentine , in the year , 1595 , bought the Marquesate of Meldola , and gave it to his Nephew Ottavio Aldobrandini , which is a Sovereignty ; this family hath lived at Rome with great pomp , and much splendour , where they have three or four fair Palaces : now there being no Males , the great Heir of that family is the Princess of Rossano married first to the late Prince Borghese his Father that now is , and after to Prince Panfilio , Nephew to Innocent the 10th , of which she is now a widow ; this match with those two families is like in time to cause great clashings between them , about a clause in the contract of marriage with the former ; both are very potent , for Borghese hath 300000 Crowns a year , and Pansilio little less : So we are now come to late families raised at Rome by Popes . Urbanus the 8th , subject born to the Grand Duke , by the means of his long Reign : had time enough to settle his family Barberini ; he had three Nephews , Francesco , whom he made Cardinal Padrone , that is Master , Antonio who for a while was the head of the Family , but desired at last to be made a Cardinal , and Don Thaddeo : Francesco was made Arciprete of St. Peters Church . Antonio of St. Mary the greater , and High Chamberlain , and Don Thaddeo Prefetto , or General of the Church ; this last being made the head of the family , they bought him the principality of Palestrina , formerly Praeneste , which is now in the hands of his younger Son , the eldest having voluntarily resigned his Birth right to his brother to be made a Cardinal , who at present is called Cardinal Carlo Barberini , he is the third of the family who hath that Dignity , which is very rare at the same time ; and that which is the more to be admired is , that he was Elected by Innocent the 10th , who made it his task to persecute and destroy this family ; but this was the work of Donna Olympia , who recollecting her self , and being affraid least the next Pope might prove a friend of the Barbarines , whose faction was then potent , and so retaliate the Panfilio's what they had done to the Barbarines , she thought it fit to reconcile both families , and this Cardinals Cap was the Seal of that Reconciliation ; though this family was persecuted by Innocent , it is still flourishing ; the Prince of Palestrina being already in possession of a vast Estate , and in expectation of a great addition to it , after the death of his Uncle Francesco , who is very rich , and at present the Dean of the Colledge of Cardinals , and titular Protectour of the English Interest at Rome ; but how much more would he get if he were made a Pope , as he pretends to it in case of a Sede Vacante : this Princes Palace is in as good air , and as pleasant a seat as any in Rome nigh to Monte Cavallo , which Innocent was upon taking from them , had not Cardinal Grimaldi prevented it by setting the Armes of France over the Gate . But we must come to the late reignning family of the Ghigi's , that Pope at first was seemingly unwilling to do any thing for his relations , but at last he was as busie as any of his Predecessours had been , to raise them up ; to this purpose he bought , as we said before , the Principality Farneze , but afterwards he parted with it for the reasons before expressed . He perswaded Father Oliva , the General of the Jesuites , to enduce those of their Colledge who had Authority to sell him the best land belonging to it , to the summ of 100000 Crowns , under pretence of getting monies to pay their debts ; and this was bought for Don Augustino , whereat the Jesuites were much grieved , when they saw their fault at a distance ; then did he secretly tamper to get those of San Marino to receive a Prince over them ; then did he proffer to Duke Muti for his principality of Rignano a Cardinals Cap , and a great summe of money ; and after the death of Duke Cezarini , he offered the Cardinals Cap to his brother and heir with 200000 Crown , if he would give one of his Neeces that are in the Cloister to Don Sigismond the youngest of his Nephews , and resign the principality , but he not willing to marry , nothing of this could take effect ; however the head of his family is provided for , because the Noble Family of Prince Savelli being exceedingly decayed , want of monies obliged him , who now is to hearken after the proposals , made by the Popes Agents , to sell his principality of la Rizza and Albano , which he did not absolutely , reserving for many years to come for himself and his heirs ( having already a fine young Son ) to enter again into his right and possession , paying the summe received , which there is no great probability as yet to effect , except in case of some very great match , or of a Popedom in their family , which yet is not very probable , though at present there be a Cardinal of the family , who had some things left him by Cardinal Mont ' alto : however the Pope is dead , and Don Maria , who at Rome ruled the rost , hath soon followed him , and a spend-thrist of no parts is left after them ; the prsent Pope as yet hath gotten no principality for his Nephews , and he hath hardly had time to do it ; what he will do hereafter time will reveal . All Princes and Republicks in Italy do homage , or pay tribute either to the Pope or to the Emperour , except the Venetians , who yet for some Islands pay a tribute to the Turk . Namely , first , the King of Spain is Feudatario of the Pope for the Kingdom of Naples , and of the Emperour for the Dukedom of Milan . The Duke of Savoy depends from the Emperour of Piemont and Monferrat , by virtue of which last he is Vicar of the Empire . The Grand Duke acknowledges the Pope for Radicosans , the King of Spain ; for Siena , and the Emperour for Florence , and the rest . The Republick of Genoa doth homage to the Emperour for her whole state ; the Duke of Mantoa , who is also Vicar of the Empire , by reason of Monferrat to the Emperour , for what he hath of Moferrat , and for the Mantoan . The Duke of Parma to the Pope for Parmas Piacenza , Castro and Riociglione . The Duke of Modena to the Emperour for his whole state ; so doth the Republick of Luca. The Prince of Monaco doth homage to the French King for what he hath in Fance . The Duke Della Mirandola , the Princes di Piorulino , and all those of the family Gonzaga , with the Marquesses di Massa and Torreglia , depend from the Empire , as due from the Pope , the Republick of San Marino , the Prince di Massarano , the Duke di Itracciano , and Earl di Petigliano , the Marquesses di Moldota and di Monte , and the Princes di Palestrina , di Pagliano , and di Farneze . Now the difference of those Papal and Imperial Fiefs or Feudi , consists in this chiefly , that most of the last pass by succession from the line male , to the female , but 't is not so off the others , for the lawful masculine line hapning to faile , 't is presently devolved to the Church , as in cases of Ferrara and Urbino . Thus far have we spoken in particular of the several Princes and Republicks of Italy ; now I have some few things to observe in general , relating to the whole Nation : First , their Language , which is a corruption of the Latin , caused by the irruption of the Goths , Huns , Vandals and Lombards , who setling in it for a while , and using their own Languages , the Countrey Tongue , which was in Latin , came to grow corrupt by degres , and to be somewhat forgotten , and which is a mixture of the French , and some of the Spanish , because these Nations have been there with their Armies , and have ruled over parts of it for a long while ; hence it is , that about Piemont , Milan , and Genoa , they speak a corrupt Italian , which hath most of the Provenzal in it , and except in part the State of the Pope , in Toscany and at Leuca , the right Italian is spoken no where else ; I do not speak as to the pronunciation , which is very different , at Genoa 't is pronounced much with the lips , in Naples with the teeth , in Venice with the palat ; and the Florentine pronunciation is well enough known , how ever the right Italian language , or Toscan , as they usually call it , is very Sententious , and full of Judicious and Significative proverbs ; 't is very sweet , and doth abound in fine and civil expressions , as for instance , if I desire to speak with one , the first words he will say to me will be these , Che commanda US , what are you pleased to command me ; if they answer to a question , 't is in these words , Daservitore non lo so , as I am your Servant I cannot tell ; If I desire one to do any thing for me , he will say , Sara Servito , I will do it ; or if I buy any thing , and we cannot ag●ee about the price , the parting words will be to me , Mispiace di non poter servirla , I am sorry I cannot afford it , and the like ; all which expressions in their Original , have more of civility then in any other Language . I need not to penetrate into the sincerity of their discourses , which is not material to the purpose . I know the saying , The French do not speak as they write , nor the Italians as they think : I speak only as to the sweetness of the Language , whereupon one said , If I was to speak to Senators or Ambassadors , I would do it in Spanish , if to Souldiers in High Dutch , to Courtiers in French , but to Ladies in Italian . There is indeed a kind of excess in their civil expressions , for they use to say , Schiavo di V. Sigria , I am your slave instead of your servant ; and the word Vosignoria , your Lordship is ordinary with them ; so is the title of Molto magnifico given to inferiour persons , as that of Illustrissimo to those of a higher quality , yet 't is given to many who are no great matter : a stranger with them is presently Sigre Conte , or Barone , or at least Sigre Cavaliere ; they call men by the Christian name , Sigre Francesco , Giouanni , Francis , John , when they speak to them , onely adding the word Don , to those of the highest quality , as Don Domenico , Don Lelio , yet they speak in the third person , when 't is with one whom they will shew respect to , thus , Dove vanno loro sigri , but in Naples 't is usual with men of the highest quality to do 't in the second person of the singular , thou , as Che fai , sei tu stato , which with other Nations is a sign either of great familiarity , or of much contempt . Neither must I omit here how fit and proper Epithets they give to things and places , as in the case of every one of their Chief Cities , so they call Roma la santa , the holy , according to their opinion , Venice , la Ricca the rich , Padoa , la Dotta the learned , Ravenna , l' Anticha the antient , Fiorenzala bella , the fair , Milan la grande the great , Genoa la superba the proud or stately , Bologna la grassa the fat , Naples , la Gentile the Gentile , Capua la deliciosa , the delicious , &c. I will not insist upon their customes , which is a subject of which many have treated , however by the by let me say in few words , that in their division of the artificial day , they differ from the general practice of Europe , excepting only ( as far as I could observe ) Prague in Bohemia , instead of our reckoning from 12 to 12 hours , they reckon from 24 till 24 , and their first hour begins at night an hour after Sun setting , wherein they imitate the Jews , who after the method of the creation reckoned the night afore the day , for saith scripture , The Evening and the Morning was the first day , the second day , &c. Another custome of Italians wherein they differ from us , is in the sign we use to make with the hand to those whom we call , for here we do it with our fingers upwards , but there it would be taken for an affront , my hand must be downwards , and move gently when I make a sign with it ; here we take that to be the upperhand which is next to the wall , but there they judge of it by the hand it self , the right hand though next to the Chanel is with them the upper hand ; and in the case of riding in a Coach , a place in the Boot in their way , is before one in riding backwards , but in Venice the left hand in the Gondola is the upper hand ; but when three walk together , the middle is the most honourable , hence it is , that when they walk upon a place to and fro , they are careful to let every one take his turn in the middle : A strange way they have to retort affronts upon others , which is , to break a bottle of Ink upon one , specially women , or else over the door of the house , so that it remains spotted with it , 't is the greatest note of infamy that can be laid upon any one . Italians , both men and women , have a general and a natural inclination to play upon the Gittar ; and I admired sometimes to hear those play who never learned at all ; the very inferiour sort of people without any direction , only with a constant application do get it , and they are so taken with it , that as they travel upon the high way from town to town , they play upon it ; and at the same time to play , to sing and to dance , is usual with them . I cannot well omit to speak some few words about their temper and manners , but before I do 't , some passage I observed somwhere there ( for in things of this nature I name no places nor persons ) which gave occasion to my following reflection , how fit it is for Princes to be careful what manner of men they bring about their persons in private . When a Prince comes into a place of retirement , he puts off that Majesty and Gravity which he hath when he appears abroad ; they are but men , and so they must allow ' themselves some liberty in ther Chambers when they are withdrawn from the croud of men and business . Now if when they are thus retired to be private , every action of theirs , and every word they speak be vented abroad by those who are present , in this the condition of Princes of all men in the world were the most miserable , Quisque suos patitur naevos , every one hath his failings , and the feailties of humane nature , so that Wisdom consists in the concealing of it , and not in the not having of it , besides that Nemo sapit omnibus horis : So that if standers by who see things , spread them abroad , then additions and glosses are made upon 't , and as the actions and words of Princes are exactly taken notice of , so every one passes his judgment upon them . How necessary is it then for Princes to have no rash or giddy , but wise , sober and discreet men to wait on them in their retirements , who without being told , may know what 's fit to be spoken , and what to be concealed , those things which may give a good opinion of a Prince must be published , but not the contrary , or else I say , that those who have the honour to be admitted into the presence of Princes , so as to be private to their retirement from the croud of affairs , to ease , chear up , and refresh their spirits , if they allow their tongue as much liberty as they do to their ears and eyes , they are very unfaithful or very imprudent , and so not fit to be in such places . Certainly Domitian himself never told , that when he was in his Closet , he was busie about killing of flies ; the first report of it came undoubtedly from some other hands , which brought a great deal of disparagement upon him ; I know in this he took his pleasure , as Nero , and other Emperours took it , in the company of Buffoons , and things of that nature ; but they forgot that their honour was to have been to them dearer then their pleasure . I do not deny however , but that one friend may sometimes whisper in the ear of another private things of this nature , and impart in secret some such things to them as they have seen , for this manner of reposing confidence in the discreetness of another is a strict bond of friendship : I disapprove here those who speak at random , before those whom they scarce ever saw , whom they do not know well , or when they speak it unseasonably , for there is a time for all things , and to know it is not the least part of wisdom . But upon the subject of the nature of Italians , I must observe that the people of those parts which are on this side the Appennini Mountains , as Piemont , Monferrat ; all Lombardy , part of the state of Venice , and la Romagna , have some things of the French humour , but on the other side , as the Gonoeses , Toscans , Romans and Napolitans , they have much of the Spanish temper , however they are all in General , dextrous , subtil and prudent , those who are good , know all the tricks that are put upon men ; there is no leading of them by the nose , neither will they be easily cheated , but they who are bad apply their whole wit to hide it ; so that one is easily mistaken in them , and 't is very difficult to know them well , but after a long dealing and conversing with them . Italy the Mother of Arts and Sciences , I look upon as a nurse , who hath vertue in one breast , and vice in another , and as ever one extream joyns with another , so best and worst are to be learned there ; this is according to the constitution of the people , who when they be good they are very good , when bad extraordinarily bad , Corruptio optimi est pessima ; however a judicious man will benefit himself by the good which there he will meet withall , but also like an experienc'd Artist he will extract wholesome cordials out of the worst of poisons ; though the corruption of humane nature is so strong , that it inclines and draws us to evil , rather then to good , but the beams of grace , the light of nature , and the testimony of ones conscience , may teach us the right way . However , to speak first of the best , I say the conversation of Italians is not easie to be had , but when it is , 't will be found sweet , civil and obliging , very circumspect not to give offences to any one in the Company , or any one else that hath a relation to it , ever respectful one to another ; the greatest familiarity doth not make them recede from a courteous carriage , so that such persons have one of the best qualifications to make friends , for friendship without respect is not to be cared for : Furthermore a thing very commendable in point of conversation is , that though they be many in company , they never speak together , which is the Vice of some other Nations , and fit only for Children ; let a man make a discourse never so long ; they will hear him quietly , and not interrupt him , as they will not be interrupted when it is their turn to speak ; 't is true , that most of them speak rationally and juditiously ; and as they are a people who love exceedingly their liberty , for which cause their Princes , to keep them under , have built so many strong Holds and Castles , so the ordinary subject of their discourses are affairs of state , which by a constant custome of speaking and hearing of , they have brought themselves to an ordinary knowledge in , as the example of that poor Fisherman at Naples , Mas ' Anello so cunningly blowing up the fire of that Insurrection , which made so much noise in the world , doth demonstrate ; upon this account , Books treating of any state revolutions are so strictly forbidden them , knowing that this is to add fewell to the fire ; and in some places , where most of all Princes are jealous of their Authority , as in Naples , discourses of this nature , if known , are severely punished . But there are two extremities upon this subject , some Princes of the East and North east parts of the world , namely the Tartars and Muscovites , keep their people in a beastly ignorance , and have exiled all manner of Arts and Sciences out of their Dominions , and this under pretence , that hereby having not so much the use of reason , they are not apt to cavil at , or to disobey the orders of their Superiours , as do other Nations , who have more knowledge and understanding ; but this hath no more consequence , then if one should say , meat and drink are not to be used , because there are gluttons and drunkards ; because there are somtimes knowing and judicious subjects , who are disobedient , 't is not to be concluded , that knowledge and judiciousness are the cause of disobedience , so far from it , that these letting a man know of his duty , do fence against any thing that goes about to withdraw him from it : Pride , Ambition , Discontents , Covet ousness , Cruelty and the like , are the caufes of Risings against Lawful Authority , and not Wisdom and Understanding , so far from it , that where they are not , the use of reason is suspended , and men act onely out of a natural impetuosity , and out of a sensitive principle , wherein they differ nothing from beasts ; so that the same ignorance and violent motion which leads them to obedience upon the lesse shadow and fancy , will spur them to disobedience ; and one alone , if not quickly taken off , is enough to turn away whole thousands , for who can more easily be mislead , then he who receives falsehoods for truths , and who hath not a spirit to discern good from evil ; these are Mules , which will as soon kick their Master as a stranger ; or like those Elephants , who having once felt the smart of a wound , in spite of their Rider turned from upon the Enemyes , and fell foul upon their own Army : I am further of the mind , that ignorance is the great prop of Rebellion ; for as there is nothing so natural to men as the desire of liberty , and that there is nothing in men to oppose the motions and desires of it ; and seeing they obey onely out of fear of punishment , upon all occasions , they will embrace any means let them be never so wrong , to attain it : Like Lyons and Tygers used to be chained up , when they break loose they tear and devour any thing that lies in their way , and like violent torrents they over-flow all ; from the fury of such people , Libera nos Domine . As to those barbarous Countries where they have such Erronious principles , contrary not only to reason , but also to common sense , they bear the punishment of this fault , for all their subjects are generally incapable to do them service , having neither parts nor abilities to effect it ; and in the managing of their Warres , which is the chief thing they minde , they are obliged , specially in Muscovite , to get Officers of other Nations to carry it on , their own Subjects , few excepted , wanting knowledge and experience in it . Arts and Sciences , not only make a Kingdom flourishing , but also do fit Subjects to obey and to command ; over-rules with the use of reason , that bruitish impetuosity which is in some men , not only teaching them their duty , but also strengthning it in them with reasons & examples . But 't is not enough to disapprove this singular errour , for there is another extream to be condemned ; 't is the too great curiosity of private men . I know particular persons are concern'd in publick transactions , as being members of that politick body , which can never fare well or suffer , but they must be sensible of it : yet some more and some less , according as they are eminent in their places , and called to it by the favour of their Prince , for every one must know his station , and act within that sphear , Ne ultra crepidem ; for if every one were his own carver , and had that share which he wishes in the Government , then all would command , and there would be none to obey , so that all would degenerate into a confusion and Anarchy . Men ought to refer themselves to their Rulers , for the direction and steering of publick Affairs , knowing that God who hath called them to it , hath not been wanting to endue them with necessary abilities : Therefore those subjects are to be blamed , who would penetrate into the secrets of Princes , and dive into their Coucils , and consequently cavil at their actions , and censure their proceedings : they see indeed the effects , but know not the causes , which if they knew , they would be satisfied and approve of them , if they were capable to understand them , but oftentimes they will judge of an undertaking by the event , which is a great mistake ; as we could give examples of designs , which were as rationally grounded as could be , carried on with all imaginable dexterity and secresie , yet miscarried upon the point of execution ; on the other side , rash attempts managed with the greatest imprudence in the world have proved successful : What then ? were the former to be blamed , or the latter commended ? No , we must look upon men to be no more than instruments , if according to the reason they have , they make use of the means afforded them , 't is all that may justly be required from them , for success of things depends upon the over-ruling hand of providence , which disposes of all things as it seems good unto her : It is true , 't is said a successful man was never a fool , nor an unfortunate a wise man ; but this is a vulgar errour as well as this other , the strongest is never the traytour . Out of this I deduce , that for the most part 't is beyond the sphear and capacity of subjects , specially those of an inferiour Orb , to judge aright of the actions of Princes ; they have certaine motions whereby they act , which are invisible to particular men , they are acted by an intelligence which is hidden from the eyes of the commonalty ; and as they stand nearer to God , so they receive more of his influences : But some sort of people do proceed to an excess of unreasonableness , in that as much as in them lies , they will not give Princes that liberty which they allow themselves , as if they were Servants more then Masters of the Sate ; 't is true , certain faults of Princes are more unexcusable than those of private men , because by these last , none but themselves or few else do suffer , but by the former , whole Nations are sometimes the worse , and share not only in the disgrace before men , but also in the punishment from God ; however a distinction is to be made ; some failings are natural to them as men , and others as they are Princes , and neither are to be examined by subjects , for to their great Master they must fall or stand . Now I must return to my principal subject , to some other virtues practised by Italians , which are sobriety , and frugality ; I will joyn them together , for they have a great dependancy one upon another , only the latter is of a larger extent : Sobriety is a thing so much in request amongst them , that with them 't is accounted to be , as indeed it is , a great shame to practise any thing contary to it , specially in point of drinking ; so that to call one there Imbrioco , a drunkard , 't is to give him one of the greatest affronts he can receive ; and 't is a certain truth , that they are very temperate in their meat and drink , and whole diet , as I will give some particulars by and by upon the point of their frugality ; in the mean while some make a doubt , whether their Sobriety bean effect of their temper , or of the Climate : I confess in hot Countries , such as this is , men have no such stomack to their meat , as they have in those which are colder , and though they had , the stomack could not have the facility to digest much of their aliments , which are very nourishing , and some of a hard concoction ; however this argues nothing at all against Italians sobriety in matter of drink , for the hotter the Climate is , the more apt men are to drink , and no Nation hath more enticements to it than they , if by nature they were inclined to it , they having as rare and excellent Wines as Europe can afford ; but since they forbear , I will not deprive them of that praise which they deserve for this virtue ; as for eating , they have as delicious meats as can be wished for , which are both pleasant to the palate , and light to the stomack , in the use of which they forbear all excesses . This will better appear by their frugality , which yet some who are used to misname every thing , and give the worst construction to all , do call covetousness , when 't is known , that in certain things no Nation is more Noble and more splendid than they are ; this frugality is extended to their cloaths and diet , they go very plain , men of vast Estates , yea , their very Princes , except upon extraordinary occasions , very seldom exceed 10. ponunds in a Sute of Clothes . I know Princes and Cardinals , who when they have received a present of sweet Meats , Fowls and the like , send it to their Confectioners , Poulterers , &c. who by it of them ; this here would be look't upon as the effect of a miserable and covetous nature , but there 't is their way ; from the highest to the lowest they are very private in their diet , there is no coming to them at such hours , and the meanest of the people would not be interrupted by the best man in the Land : the most part of Noblemens Servants do not diet in their houses , but are allowed bord wages instead of it . But Italians delight in rich and fine Coaches drawn by stately horses , and to be attended by a number of Staffieri , or men in Liveries ; Coaches of 800 or 1000 pounds are not rare there , and there is never a King in Europe that hath Coaches so rich as hath the Grand Duke , and the Duke of Parma , the formers Coat of Armes , which are the six Balls , are set over head in his Coach , for every Ball a precious Stone , valued at 10000 l. Sterl . and if we will believe them , the whole Coach comes to 40000 l. Further they delight in buildings , and stately Palaces built up after the Symmetry , and exact Architecture ; So in Gardens and Water houses , Ornaments and Furnitures of Houses , as Statues and Pictures ; hence it is that they are so passionately in love with Pictures , that they will give any thing for one when they like it , 4 or 500 l for one Picture is no extraordinary rate amongst them ; there hath been some Princes who have offered in Siver the weight of some Statues , and could not have them ; in a word , Italians delight in those things which make a shew . 'T is not to be admired that in Italy they are such lovers of Pictures , for that Art is there brought to the height of its perfection , and that Country is absolutely the best , if not the only Shcool of it , where within this age or thereabouts , have flourished those Eminent Picture-drawers who have filled Europe with their Names , but most of their Works are safely and dearly kept there , whether they be in Fresco or in Oleo : what excellent Artists have been Bassano , Ticiano , Michel Angelo , Rafaele di Urbino , Tintoretto , all the Caracci , Coregio , Paola Veronese , Dominichino , Lan Franco Guarcini , Guido Reny , and a great number of others , who excelled , almost every one in something ; some in invention , others in the mixture of Colours , in the proportions , exactness of Features , and after the natural ; and in designing , drawing and touching or perfecting : in great or short , in Mignatura with the Pen or Pencil , or otherwise , Fights , Land-skips , Flowers , Perspectives , Sea-prospects , great and small Figures , and in other wayes and things depending upon that curious profession ; in this , for certain Italy goes beyond all the World. Now we will come to what is worst in them , but we must premise this , that their youth is very fiery , which is the cause of Murthers and other mischiefs committed in those parts ; however this heat doth not last usually after they are passed 25 years of age , or a little more : as for the meanest sort of people , they are generally civil in their carriage , if one be so to them , but if a stranger speaks a hard word to them , they take fire and grow very insolent , yet so , that if they see themselves the weaker , and not in a place convenient for them , they hold their peace and for bear till they have opportunity of time and place ; but let 's come to their Vices . As the natural propension of men is to evil more than good , so many who travel into Italy do quickly take notice of their Vices , but do not minde their Virtues ; so when they come from thence , all that they can say for it is , they are given to such and such evil courses , and are so and so qualified , but Virtue and Vice with Nations are as Corn and Tares in the Field , and like Wheat and Chaff in the Barn , one must have skill to pick out the right and leave the wrong : Some Vices as the Apostle speaks , are not so much as to be named , and as he saith in another place , It is even a shame to speak of those things which are done of them in secret ; a certain modesty in speaking is required , which if a man doth not observe , I judge him to be disposed to evil doing ; some Vices there are so odious in themselves , that they defile the tongue of the speaker , the ear of the hearer , the pen of the writer , and the eye of the reader , yea , the very thoughts ; this consideration obliges me to pass by some things to come to others . Some will tell me , 't were well also to omit speaking of jealousie , which both Sexes there are subject unto , though that of the men , as being the strongest , doth produce the saddest effects ; I confess 't is a very unpleasant subject , which I leave after few words speaking ; this extravagant passion which is caused by love , but destroys it , and which as Solomon saith , The rage of a Man , doth so blind , possess and alter men in Italy , that from Husbands it turns them into Goalers and Tyrants , and Murtherers of their Wives , who become thereby their prisoners and slaves upon this consideration , Ariosto one of their most eminent Poets , hath the expressions here inserted : Che dolce piu , che piu giocondo stato Saria di quel ' d'un amoroso cuore ? Che viver ' più felice , e più beato Che ritrovarsi in servitu d' amore . Se non fosse l' huomo sempre stimolato Da quel ' sospetto rio , da quel ' timore , Da qvel ' furor ' , da quella frenesia , Da quella rabia detta gelosia . Another Vice of Italians which I am more free to speak of , is that desire of revenge , which is so strongly seated in them ; they are certainly of a most revengeful nature , and therefore 't is very dangerous to offend them , they profanely say , that Vengeance is so sweet a thing , and so great a good , that upon that account God doth reserve it to himself , as a thing wherein he will not have men to share with him ; and as Italians to attain it , use all possible means , let them be lawful or unlawful , and as it carries them to the utmost extremities ; so I am of opinion , that there is a cruelty in that nature which is so bent to the execution of it ; out of this principle , I mean of cruelty , Pope Sixtus Quintus used to say , upon the occasion of a great Princess , who in his dayes was brought upon the Scaffold , Che Gusto , said he , di tagliar teste coronate what a pleasure is it to cut off Crowned Heads ! Northerly people do blame the wayes which they use to be avenged , as poysoning , stabbing and the like ; but they and the Spaniards too laugh at us , and call Germans , French and other Nations , fools , who use to challenge and fight duels one with another , for so doing ; for say they , if one hath been offended , is he not a fool to take the way , perhaps of receiving a greater offence , instead of a satisfaction , and to venture his life upon such an account , but men ought to take their advantage : the truth is , the Italian is a dangerous person upon this account , for he appears cold in his anger , constantly thinking upon the means how to be avenged , he keeps the injury in the bottom of his heart , and the worst is , that he dissembles and conceals his desire of revenge , which aims at no less than the death of the offendor , by the means of poison , dagger , or any other way , leaving nothing unattempted to bring his design to pass . Neither will they hearken sincerely after a reconciliation ; for their proverb , saith , Amicitie reconciliate , eminestre riscaldate non furono mai grate , there was never any pleasure in reconciled friendships , nor in warmed pottage ; and this is so deeply fixed in their hearts , that many die obstinate in that resolution . Upon this subject there is a very notable passage of an Italian Gentleman , who being strongly exhorted by a Franciscan Fryar , to be reconciled to his Enemy , answered him in these words , You exhort me to forgive as a Christian , and I cannot do 't being a Gentleman ; I was born a Gentleman before I was a Christian , for I am the one by nature , and the other by virtue of my baptisme ; therefore I will first be avenged as a Gentleman , before I forgive as a Christian. From what hath been said , we make some few general observations , namely that the Italian Nation is not only fallen from that great power it had formerly , but also it hath much degenerated from that heroick virtue and martial spirit it had before ; for a thousand eminent men it produced formerly , there is hardly one now ; and that generosity of the Lion which they had heretofore , is turned into the cunning of the Fox ; so their businesses are mannaged with dexterity , ( not to speak worst , ) more than with strength : hence it may be concluded , that virtues , though but moral ones , make glorious States , Kingdomes and Republicks , and Vices are the cause of their decay , as it hath happened to the Roman Empire ; Virtue gets honour , strength and riches ; and as the best things are apt to be corrupted in their use , so these produce pride , ambition , idleness , covetousness , and other vices , which causes destruction one time or other . It appears also from hence , how unfortunate the condition of those petty Princes are , who depend upon others , for their preservation , their protectors do often turn to be their oppressors , and yet they dare not camplain of it ; how watchful must those be who have ambitious , and much more potent Neighbours than themselves , 't is a sad case to think what straights they are sometimes brought to , to provide for their safety , and how many real evils they are exposed unto , to maintain that vain shadow of liberty which they are so taken with , and that dream of a Sovereign Authority , of which they be so fond of ; they waste and consume themselves in charges for their preservation , and are besides obliged to observe the humours of friends and foes ; and what is this to the odium and disaffectedness of their Subjects which they often bring upon themselves , who must bear the burthens , and be at the charges of upholding this Authority , which makes also the condition unhappy of the people who lives under such Princes as have no power to protect them ; and as the right use of these two Princely virtues , Valour and Prudence , do consist in these two things , to free his States from forreign , and to avoid civil wars ; certainly if they can prevent neither , but with much difficulty , by reason of weakness and discontents , they must needs be constantly offended with dangers and fears , which makes to them their life uncomfortable ; and let things fall out how they will , if ever they be engaged in any troubles at home or abroad , what success and advantage can they get either from those who are much more potent then they , or from those in whom their strength ought to lie ; by this last they act against their own interest , and do as it were tear themselves in pieces , for 't is not enough for a war to be just , 't is necessary it should also be beneficial and advantagious . I must make one observation more , that the number of petty Princes ( such are all Italian ones , in comparison of potent Kings and Kingdoms , as England , France and Spain ) doth much contribute to their common safety and preservation , for every Prince watches constantly the design of another , not only upon his own States , but upon that also of his Neighbour , for he is much concerned that the dominions of one of his neighbours should not fall into the hands of another , who would thereby grow too potent for him , and one time or other bring him upon the Stage ; and 't is a necessary maxime , not only to remove the will and inclination he hath to do him hurt , but also to hinder and prevent his being able to do it ; So then , that mutual jealousie which they have one of another , keeps the scales even between them ; and if a single one would attempt something upon him who is weaker , then the others whuld not fail directly or indirectly to assist the weakest ; and if the Prince should happen to be stronger than all the other together , rather than be made a prey to such a one , they would call in a forreign power to ballance him , as it hath been of late done in Germany , for Princes there being grown very jealous , and not without cause , much affraid of the Emperours power , they brought in the French and the Swedes , who having gotten an interest in the Empire , the one in Alsatia , the others in Pomerania and Bremen , and are now concern'd to curb the Imperial Authority if it would over-flow the banks of its just and limited power : this is also the case of Italy , where the French and the Spaniard have each some interest , though the former not comparable to the latter , as to possession of Lands , but when he pleases he can pour thousands of his Subjects into it , having in his hand a door into it , then the differences between the houses of Savoy and Mantoa , and of Parma and Modena with the Pope , will be now and then an occasion for the French to meddle in Italy . And although the Princes of Italy care neither for French nor Spaniard , yet they care for their interest , which is ever to make use of one to oppose the designs of the other . So that publick persons , as well as private men , may learn from Italians , the rules and practise of Oeconomy and Policy ; the greatest of Princes , as the meanest of Subjects , need to be frugal and saving , for let their Incomes be never so great , the charges of the State , and their own , are sometimes greater : often there happens extraordinary , and undispensible occasions and necessities to be supplyed , or else the State will run into a palpable danger . Men from the highest to the lowest , have nothing but what they save and spare , and let them receive never so much , they will not want unnecessary occasions of laying out more then that comes to . Monies are the sinews , not only of war , but really there cannot be any politick motion without it , wherefore we use to see that of Princes , he is the strongest who is the richest , if he knows how to make use of that advantage : by these means he will draw the greatest and the best Armies into the field , and will keep them upon duty and in obedience , and so in a fit posture for service ; the best experienced Officers , and the stoutest and most undaunted Souldiers , will ever follow an exact and a good pay ; he will not only secure his own places , but also work within the Garisons of his Neighbours , and even have influences upon their very Councils ; The rich Prince will tire out and consume him who is poor ; how much then are they concerned , when present occasions of State allow it , to lay up in their Coffers that which may serve for the future necessities of it ; that Prince who is in this condition , is feared , respected , and admired at home and abroad , if he hath learned well how to improve this advantage . As to that part of a Princes policy , which consists in this , Not to discover the bottom of his heart , nor the utmost of his Power ; we have it from Italians , not the former , for when the inclinations of a Prince come to be found out , and his heart can be known , then all his neighbor Princes will work upon him that way ; they will give him monies if he be covetous , praises and flatteries if he be proud and vain ; they will go about to strike fear into him if he be umorous , or in a contrary way to please him in that passion , which they know to be predominant in him ; and hereby many a time he will be drawn to act or comply in those things which are contrary to his honour and interest : At home he is also exposed to the attempts of Parasites and Flatterers who for their own ends ; ever study to please him in that which they know him to be most of all prone and given to , by which , compliance with him , he becomes a prey unto them : the latter part of this policy , for a Prince not to discover the utmost of his power , is to be learned from Italians , as well as the former . Some Princes and States do subsist and are upheld by credit and reputation more then by a real strength ; 't is more by the opinion which others have of them , then by any true cause in themselves ; and 't is well for one never to do so much , but to give others to think that he can do more , for when 't is once found out how far one may go , others will be more apt to cross him , and will take courses sutable to their designs against him ; so that in this a Prince lies open to the attempts of others . Another thing neecssary for publick and private persons to be learned from Italians , as much as from any other Nation , is , Not to discover the utmost reach of ones capacity , and of that faculty of the soul , called understanding or intellect : this learned men do so observe , that in the solution of questions , though sometimes they have said as much as they are able , yet they will tell one , that much more might be said to that purpose , and the like ; for above all things they would avoid to be suspected of ignorance by others , seeing they make an open profession of learning . So 't is a matter of high concernment to Princes to be accounted to be men of parts , judicious and understanding , which are qualifications necessary to those who rule Kingdomes and Nations , therefore they are so careful not to give the least grounds to make people suspect they want , abilities to govern , seeing nothing can be so injurious and prejudicial to them , as to be accounted soft and shallow heads . Solomon the wisest of Kings , pronounces a woe to that land whose Princes are children , not so much in years as in wisdom and understanding , as was his son Rehoboam , who was said to be young at 40 years of age , for want of knowledge and experience : a wise Prince therefore will chuse not to speak at all , rather then not to speak to the purpose upon a subject : hence it is also that he sits in Council , not only to hear the several advices given him there , but also to judge of them himself , and having digested it in his mind , to give them a form , chuse the best , and be himself the Author of his resolutions in consequence of Councils given him , which thus he makes to be his own . It is then a great part of wisdom to conceal his ignorance , and in capacity of any things , specially of those which ought to be known , and to give as good opinion as one can of his abilities , and rather forbear speaking of a thing then not to do it well , or instead of praises which every one is desirous of , one brings himself into slight and contempt , for I think that one of the greatest discommendations of a man is this , he was so put to it , that he knew not what to say . Silence also , and Secreste , which are qualities so essentially necessary to all sorts of persons , are to be learned from the same Nation ; as nothing makes a man so vile and so contemptible , as not to be able to hold his peace ( an imperfection and defect to be excused only in children , fools and drunken persons ) so nothing argues so much the infidelity and rashness of a publick person , as the revealing of secrets ; as I am the Master of my own secret , I may declare it to a friend ; but my friends secret I may not tell it to another , because 't is not my own ; much less may a publick Minister betray his masters secret , wherein not only one or few persons , but whole Nations for the most part are concerned . Many great designes have been obstructed , and many great evils caused or prevented , either by an yntimely discovery of resolutions , or by some few words spoken unadvisedly ; one word dropt from a mans mouth is sufficient at least to breed a suspition , which usually puts men upon further inquiries and discoveries ; therefore want of secresie is a great breach of prudence , which is the Salt , the Spirit and the Life of Moral and Politick Vertues . One thing more to be learned is , Constancy and Settleness of Mind , so necessary to private men , in both fortunes , and to publick persons in times of troubles and difficulties . A skilful Pilot is not moved so , as to despair amidst the roaring of the winds , the tossing and tumbling of the waves , and the raging of the storm ; contrariwise he sticks the closer to his work , grows more careful , and minds the more the safety of the Ship , wherein his own and all others in it are included : So an experienced Minister of State , amidst all troubles , crosses and conspiracies against the State , doth retain that soundness of mind , and tranquility of soul , which at last may bring him out of all dangers , instead of falling into confusion and disorder , or yielding to fear , he uses those means which are lawful , possible , and likely to quiet and pacifie things ; he is not moved at different reports , he is neither incredulous nor over credulous , but hears every thing , examines and weighs all , receives that which to him appears to be the truest , and resolves upon that which he thinks to be the best . That Italians have known and practised these things , the history of antient Rome , and the experience of these last times do justifie it , and some able States-men , and great Polititians , whom that Nation hath afforded Germany , France , Spain , and other Countries , do clearly convince of this truth , and are presidents of it , and one single Proverb of theirs ( to shew how solid and substantial they are ) doth teach us all the Vertues aforesaid in these words , Non spendor ' cio che tu hoi , non far ' cio che tu puoi , non creder ' cio che tu udi ; that is , One must not spend all that he hath , nor do all that he can , nor tell all that he knows , nor believe all that he hears . THE CHARACTER OF SPAIN . IN the South-west parts of Europe , between the 37. and 42. degrees of latitude , lies a potent Kingdome , named Spain , or Spains in the plural number , for so Philip II. called himself , Rex Hispaniarum , after the acquisition he made of Portugal , in the year 1550. it fell into the hands of the House of Austria by the match of Philip the xi . first son to Maximilian of Austria , with the daughter of Ferdinand of Aragon , and Isabella of Castilla , heir of those Countries , united by the marriage of the said Ferdinand and Isabella . These dominions have in time been so enlarged by marriages and conquests , as to reach some things in Africa , a great part of Europe , and almost all America , which hath given occasion to say , That the sun never shines out of the Spanish dominions . The struglings of this Nation after an Universal Monarchy , have proved so lusty and so hard , that at one time or other , whole Europe hath been shaken with it : whereby the Spanish name is become so famous , that 't is not to be admired at , if curiosity of seeing a Countrey where so great designs were continued , hath put several men upon travelling into it . I confess , with many others , I have been taken with that itching desire , in hope of seeing an extraordinary land , peopled with none but Heroes , but with what successe , the following discourse shall witnesse , being sure that no curiosity was ever more severely punished then mine , nor pleasure more constantly attended with pain : if this be a sin , I vow never again to fall into it , and herein I ought not to be accounted singular , for I protest I found all those whom I conversed with , and who have been there , to be of my opinion ; but patience . In this World one must see not only good but evil also , things better judged of by their contraries , yet to go thorough , one must be stored with monies and patience . Let a man begin this Journey which way he pleases , he will find it very tedious , and must resolve to suffer many inconveniences : whither he goes from Bayone to Yrun , San Sebastian , and thence the straight way to Victoria , Puerto de sant Adrian , or on the left , to Pamplona in Navarra by Estella de Navarra ( where is an University ) la Puente de la Reyna and Viana passing by Logrono , whence some go to Santo Domingo de la Calcada , in the Church whereof are seen a Cock and a Hen of the breed ( as 't is reported ) of those which ( if you will believe it ) came to life again after they had been roasted ; and to be short , thence to Burgos Valladolid , Medina del Campo , Salamanco Scyonia , el puerto de guadarrama , Iscuriale el Pardo and Madrid , Alcula de trenares , Aranjues , Toledo , &c. Or whether a man goes into Spain by Catalonia , Valenza Murcia , Grenada : one shall be ill horsed , hardly used , and have bad accommodation ; of which three things , one alone is enough to vex a Traveller . Although Spanish Horses be very good , there are so few , that they are not employed in ordinary uses , Mules must doe the worke , which are very slow creatures , very ill harnessed , and very dangerous for biting kicking ; to these inconveniencies , let a Spaniard be joyned as a guide , who as well as the Mule , keeps to his slow pace , caused not only by his natural gravity , but also ( when they walk as many do ) by shooes made of little cords , which the generality of them doth wear , so that the sand and drye ground they walk upon being already much heated by the Sun , must needs gall and burn their Feet , let them be never so used to 't , this must needs be very tedious to those who are used to ride good Horses . But there are other difficulties caused by the rudeness and barbarity of men , all rational people will shew themselves civil to Strangers who pass thorough their , Countrey , to give them cause to commend the Inhabitants when they are out of it ; but here no such thing is thought upon , they are called by the nick-name Gavachos , and assoon as a man comes into Spain he must shew all the moneys he hath about him , and every thing else , and must pay for 't according as he is taxed by those unreasonable men , whether it be a silver Sword , a Watch , a Ring , silver Buttons and the like , so that nothing goes free ; and then if any thing lyes in the way of these Searchers , they will make conscience to take it as dexterously as they can , and though one should take notice of it , yet he dares hardly say any thing for fear of the worst , because sometimes they send one or other upon the passage to rob or kill as they have a minde to . After this they give a note , which some call Albaran , and others Aluala , to certifie to other searchers that the things have been payed for ; yet for all this , others if they please ( and they do 't very often except monies be given them ) they cause one to open all again , they search all , and make pay for all ; and the worst is , that this sort of men ever lies at the coming in and going out of every Province , which in those parts ( for greatness sake ) they call Kingdomes , so that after this rate one is to pass thorough several Kingdoms before he can come to Madrid . At the coming out of Spain one meets with the like ( or worse usage if it be possible ) as he found at the going into 't . But after all , the worst is , that one hath no accommodation by the way , for sometimes you shall ride 30. miles and not see a house , nor meet with a man , so that in some places one must carry for himself something to eat , and Oats for the Mule , and so lie sometimes under a Tree : how uncomfortable this is in Winter , and the heat of Summer , I leave every one to judge . And the misery is , that when one comes to an Inn , he is hardly the better for 't , for excepting some Alcoues which are used onely by persons of quality , all the bed you can get , is some formes or few boards lay'd close , with straw or wooll at the most , within a matteress upon 't , without Bed-steads or Curtains , for they know not what such things mean , and if one will have clean sheets , the surest way is to carry some along with him . Yet this is but beginning of trouble , for these Inns ( if I may so call it ) afford nothing to eat , and if you will have bread , you must send for 't out of the house into one place , for Wine into another , for Meat into another , for one can hardly find two such different things in one place ; after all , if you will have it well dressed , I advise you to have a Cook of your own . Now see whether or not I have reason to wish my self out of this Countrey , but I must go throughout , seeing I am so far engaged in 't , and give some observations I made of their nature , and of some manners and customes of theirs . Though the Spaniard be not very sociable , yet'tis easy for a man to know his natural Genius and Inclination as to the generality : I confess amongst the true Castillans , some Generous and Gallant men are to be found , but these are so scarce , that we may say of it , as of Bread , the Countrey affords it very good , but so little of it , that though the Countrey ( Catalonia excepted ) be very void of Inhabitants , there is hardly enough of it to serve 3. months in the year , so of 10000. men , hardly one will be found to have a right principle of honesty . If at any time a man hath offended them , though it be an offence taken rather than given , they will seem not to take notice of it , but they will watch one so long , and so well , that at last he must fall into their Clutches ; then they give no quarter , but one night or other as a man is going to his Lodging , they will shoot him dead in a treacherous way , and when he is not aware of them . Their Pride is known by the contempt they have for all other Nations , therefore they say their King alone is El Roy de los hombres ; the same they affirme of their Language , but most of all 't is known by their carriage ; they have an affected gravity which goes beyond the natural , and make themselves valiant with oftentation . They walk up and down the Streets like Peacocks and Turkies with a great deal of pride , staring upon others , and looking on themselves from top to toe with a losty , scornful and braving courtenance ; and yet when there is occasion to go to it , except there be three or four against one , Toman las oulcas de villa diego , as they say , that is in plain English , they run away , till they have an opportunity of being avenged ; and this is most of all practised in Valenza , Arragona , Catalonia , &c. in Castilla , and some other places , there being more generosity than in others . In Summer , they wear long Cloakes of black London Serge , specially those who are of any fashion , but I have seen some of Cloth and very heavy , for they say , that which keeps from cold , preserves also from the heat ; their shooes for the most part have no heele , or a very little one ; the clock of their stockings comes up to the fat of their legg . It were needless for me to make an exact description of their cloathes , seeing they often have been seen in England , specially in Eighty Eight . I shall not dispute whether they are becoming or not , much of it depending upon custome and fancy , yet they are so taken with it , that still they keep to their fashion in most Countries where they live , and very hardly can resolve upon changing in some Courts where they have Ambassadours , for else they have so good opinion of their Countries that they scorn almost all others , and account them not worthy to be seen , except the low Countries , Naples , Sicily , Milan , the West-Indies , &c. where they goe to feather their Nest and to grow rich , and often they take such courses , as makes them speed well in 't in a very short time . They use to wear Sword and Dagger , and though their Cloak be new , very often they make a hole in it , that the Dagger may be seen ; the lowest sort of tradesmen , as Carpenters , Shooe-makers , &c. never sit at their work without a Dagger by their sides . Thus the Commonally is possessed with pride , witness the story of the Woman , who being a Begger , yet would not have her son to serve an Ambassadour ; I will not said she ( being spoken to about it ) undervalue my son so much , who knows whether one day he shall not be King of Spain . Hence it is that we do not see Spaniards to be servants of men of other Nations , nor to travel but upon the account of necessity . Now this vanity follows them to their grave , as we hear of the Cobler , who being upon his death-bed , having called his Children to him , said to them , Take heede you do nothing to disparage your selves , or to dishonour your Family . To see the meanest of them in their cloathes , and to act their gravity , is a thing to make any Sranger mistake their quality , insomuch , that one day in their late Kings time , a foreign Minister being private in his Lodging , took one of them for a Grandee , who ( as he thought ) came to give him a visit incognito , as 't is usual in those parts , and received him with a great civility , but at last this proved to be a Glasier , who went to mend a window : and they so much affect gravity in their march , that one of them being once whipped at Paris , ( you may conceive not for any good he had done ) and being told by some spectators who pittyed him , to mend his pace , that he might sooner come out of his pains , he turned about , and with much gravity , told them , that he would not go an inch the faster , though all the Hangmen of France were at his heels . But to goe on in telling of their good qualities , I must not omit to say that idleness , and lasiness are some of those which most of all they are subject to : I cannot tell whether it be meerly an effect of their natural disposition , or a trust they put to the Harvest they receive from the Indies ; or , as I believe , of both ; but the matter is such , that their Land which in many places is good , and could be made fruitful , nor only in Fruites and good Wines , but also in other Necessaries , for want of being manured , is barren and useless . Now the Ground doth not produce without the care of man ; at present God doth not shew us such Miracles , as he hath done sometimes in the dayes of old . If Tradsemen amongst them , do work 2 or 3 hours in the day , they will think themselves the greatest workmen in the world ; and they who set them at work , must pay as dear , as if they had been a whole day at it : when this is done , they go to play or iport themselves one way or other , but those that live in Sea-Towns never fail to walk by the Sea-side , to see Ships coming in , to enquire what parts of the world they come from , and what news they bring : and here Passenger : do find some office of the Inquisition summoning them to go and give an account of their Faith to the Office , but their chief end is to get a piece of money , and then they let people alone . Others there are in these Sea-Towns , who drive another sort of Trade , they come aboard and offer to Passengers wine and other provisions at a very low rate , only to oblige them to go to their houses , where they shew them Spanish flesh rather than Victuals . No Nation hath more ceremony , and less reality than the Spanish , when they think to cut one's throat , then they make the greatest protestations of love and friendship : they stand so much upon titles and places , that as Boccalini saith , it is a particular custome of Spaniards , to visit others more to affront , than to honour them . Complements also are so mixed with their ordinary discourses , that they wholly take away the pleasure of Society , & banish Liberty , wherein doth consist the sweetness of Conversation : An English Nobleman having often been troubled at Madrid with such a way of dealing , by one of their Great men , resolved one day to be avenged on him , therefore once when the other was come to him , he caused a great fire to be made , and both being drawn near to it , with their backs towards the Chimney , the Nobleman engaged the Spaniard in discourses of Civility , who many times bowed towards the fire , which he did so often , that at last feeling the heat , he clapt his hand upon the back side , and found the fire had burned part of it , he was as amazed , as the other who sitting by a fire , and feeling the heat thorough his Boots , said , I am a fraid of burning my Boots , when another who stood by answered , Sir , do not mind your Boots , for already they are gone , onely look to the Spurs . They profess a new Divinity , to allow of a certain evil , that an uncertain may be avoided thereby , that is to practice a Peccadillo as they call it , a little sin , to avoid falling into a greater , and for fear of Sodomy , to indulge themselves in their Leachery ; a thing so generally used amongst them , that he who hath not his love in that kind , is accounted a man without wit and merit ; and the generality of them goes as openly and freely into such places , as here one will goe to a Tavern , or an Ale-house : they consuetudo peccandi , tollit sensum peccati , the custom of Tinning , takes away the sense of sin ; their Proverb is , El fatigado con cosas deveres , recreese con donagres , he who is a weary of serious things , must betake himself to his pleasures ; of which , as of Wines they allow themselves a Calabrada , a mixture and variety , wherein they so much indulge themselves , that rather than be deprived of the least , they will loose any thing ; whereupon they use to say , Siempre en las tardangas a'y peligro , y. vale mas paxaro en mano que buy tre volando , A bird in hand is better than two in the bush ; which they mean of their pleasures . Sometimes I have seen some of their Priests come to Strangers Lodgings ( provided they be acquainted with the Landlord ) to play with them , in a disguise , not out of any shame , but only to have more liberty with those who know them not , except a Landlord , or some body else tells them what they are . There be also some Priests and Fryars carrying up and down the Streets , the Image of one or other Nuestia Sennora , as they call it , for whom they beg , & yet the poor Lady is never the better for it ; for most part of the time , what they have gotten , they bestow upon their own pleasures , and other uses ; and once I saw at Alicant , one of them , who played at Cardes what monies he had then about him , and lost it to an English Master of a Ship : whereby we see now ready they are to sacrifice their shew and pretence of Devotion , to their pleasure or covetousness ; and sometimes they dispose of it another way , which is , to make a mock at what they call piety themselves , and which we , with a more proper word , do name superstition . Many of these Secular , and Regular Priests , are very offensive to the Laity , by reason of the great power theClergy hath in those parts , who assert their priviledges with a great severity , by the means of the Inquisition , which is formidable to the greatest men in the Land , as to the lowest ; so that under this shelter , they commit many unjust and unlawful things . But in general , to return to the Nation , they are very singular in their Diet , still making good the Proverb which saies , A Spaniard is not sober when he lives at the costs of others : but else they are very sparing and I am very much of the opinion of one , who thinks that in London , there is more Meat eaten in one Month , than in whole Spain in one Year . They do not roast whole Capons , and Pullets , but Leggs , and Wings by themselves , and then spread the feathers before their doors , to make others think thatgood chear is made in that house ; a Crust ofBread rubbed with Garlick , or an Onion , is an ordinary and a good diet for them , which , if a Stranger sees them to eat , they presently fall upon commending of Sobriety , and how wholsom a thing it is : many a time I have seen numbers of them dine so , close by a wall , to enjoy the heat of the Sun , which is their ordinary fire in those parts , so saving they endeavour to be in every thing ; yet if any one will have the pleasure , how well they can eat , or rather devour , let him treat them at his own charges . For certain flesh isvery nourishing there , but this is not the onely reason of their sobriety , 't is also dear , in part , because 't is scarce , and also by reason of a great Tax laid upon Butchers : Fruits , herbs and roots , are things which they feed upon most of all , and in every thing almost , they use much Pimiento , a kind of red Pepper which grows in the country ; but they are not used to see any quantity of meat upon a table ; this is the reason why Gondomour being gone back into Spain from his Ambassy in England , and being asked by his Master about several fashions used here in the Court , amongst the rest , being very inquisitive to know what ceremonies were used here when the King was at table ; he answered , for his part , he could not well tell , though he had been in the Dining Room when his Majesty was at Dinner , because , said he , he was hidden from him by a great piece of Beef which was laid upon the Table . They allow not their wives to sit at table with them , those persons of quality are private in a chamber and by themselves , but others of the common sort of people , do usually keep in the same chamber where their husbands dine , at a table with their children , or else there is a place raised half a foot or thereabouts above the flower , with a Carpet laid over it , thereupon the wife , and children either kneel or sit without Chairs , and eat what the husband is pleased to send them from his Table , so that to speak the truth , they are deprived of their liberty and kept in great subjection , little different from slavery . Which hard usage they are sensible of , upon occasion doing them all the turns of unfaithfulness which they are able , being naturally by the influences of the climate , the hot things they eat and drink , and out of a desire of the liberty they see themselves abridged off , much inclined to luxury ; they take care to curle their hair , keep their breast naked , yet not so low as the shoulders , they paint much with red their lips and cheeks , a custom so general amongst them , that they hide it not one from another ; they wear above their wast a fardingale , or Guarda infanta , as they call it , which is like a circle of a good breadth , and very fit to hide a big belly ; when they go thorough a narrow door they must strike it down of one side ; those of an inferiour quality , when they are abroad , do usually wear a black Hood which falls lower then their breast and shoulders , and hides the whole face , except one eye , which is all one is able to see of it , whereby they are so hard to be known , that towards evening a husband going by his wife shall have much ado to know her ; though they be more civil to those strangers or others whom they intend to favour , by uncovering the whole face when they come nigh to them : they improve the few moments they have of liberty , and they endeavour to hazer su Agosto , to speak in their own words , or as we say , Make Hay whilst the Sun shines , and they do it de la buena gana , with a good will. Men there , are extraordinarily careful of their Beards , which are black and thick with Mustacchio's 〈◊〉 Tusks ; to save them at night , they have las bigotes , that is a kind of a waxed Case which they lay upon it , and which to one who knows not what it is , seems very strange in a morning when they appear with it at a Window : they also make a Beard so essential to a man , that if he be altogether shaven , as now we are in England , they will doubt whether or not he be an Eunuch : and in the streets of Madrid , I have seen an outlandish man of about 30 years of age , taken by the arme by a woman who never saw him before . and asked him very boldly , tien los Cojones voste , Sir , are you a whole man , because he was wholly shaven . A thing which most of all seemed strange to me in Spain , is the custome of some to walk in the streets with Spectacles on their Noses , which with a little thread they tye to both ears , and there is a two-fold reason for it ; the one is the scorching heat of the Sun which heats so much the ground , that the reverberation of it is hurtful to the eye , but as in Winter the sun is not so hot as in Summer , so methinks the use of these Spectacles should cease ; therefore besides the former there is an inward reason , arising from the immoderate luxury which they are given to , for by reason of the strict communication there is between those parts and the head , specially the Opticks , the Organ is much offended , and consequently weakned , so that this people becomes short sighted ; and I think that the fresh waters with Ice , which they so much drink of in summer , are used to cool their lust more then to quench their thirst . The extraordinry long swords they have must needs be very inconvenient , specially by reason of the long cloaks they wear them under , insomuch that most part of time they must turn up their cloaks of one side when they walk , and the other hand they must lay upon the hilt of the sword , that thereby the point of it be lifted up , otherwise it would constantly trail upon the ground , and often the crosse above the hilt being of one side turned upwards , and downwards on the other , seems at the same time threatning heaven and earth . Formerly they used to wear Ruffs about their necks , which were forbidden , because in Arragon a great man was strangled with it , so that since that time they have been lookt upon as a halter about ones neck , and instead of it , they use a little band stretched and stiffned with a little wire . In their discourses they would be taken for Senators , for upon every occasion they play the Statesmen , they dispose of Crowns Scepters and Kingdoms , just as if they were of Gods council , they decide the fortune of Princes , censure the actions and carriage of Ministers of state , and when they are three or four together , one would think that like so many Gods they sit in council to resolve upon the fare , and dispose of all States and Empires of the world , and this not by conjectures , but out of a certain and infallible knowledge , and whilest they fancy Mountains of Gold , and think how to dispossesse other Nations of their Country , they take no notice how void of people their own is , by reason of their driving the Moores out of Granada , of their Plantations in the Indies , their wars in Flanders and Italy , and of the many Garrisons they must keep in sundry places ; thus they make good their Proverb , cada loco con su tema , every fool hath his fancies . Benefit and pleasure are the two great ends of Travellers , but in Spain neither is to be had , the people of it not being sociable , and there is hardly any thing worthy of a mans curiosity , or at least the pains to go to see it ; all Spain doth not afford one noble and stately City . Pamplona in Navarra is noted for the Citadel in 't , Burgos the Metropolis of Castilla the old for the great Church , and an inconsiderable Castle ; Valladolid where formerly the Court hath resided for a considerable time , is a proverb , Villa per villa , Valladolid en Castilla , but there are not so much as walls about it . Salamanca hath the famous University of Spain , their is the Bridge built by the Romans , and the Bull at one end of it ; Segovia hath without the Monasterie , called Parral , the Mint , a Palace and the Aqueducts , & the fine Cloth made there : Toledo the chief Arch-bishoprick of Spain hath a great Church & a thing called the Treasure within it , & Water-works ; so at Granada is the Palace of the Palace of the Kings of the Moors , the Altrambra : Cordova hath the Mosquea or Church of the Moors , Sarragossa is a good place , and to be short , their Sevile the chief of Andaluzia , of which their Proverb says , El que non ha vista Sevilla , non ha vista Maravilla : indeed about it grow good fruits , the River Guadulquivin , runs by , and after falls into the Sea by San Iuan de Burrameda , but certainly in other places are much better Churches , Palaces . Bridges , Universities , &c. and I say that all these things together are not worth the pains and the charges of going so far to see them , except a man hath absolutely a mind to be able to say , I have seen ; neither is a good breeding to be gotten there . Indeed there are in Spain two things worth seeing , and no more , one is a work of nature , the River Guadiana in Estramudara , sinking under ground beyond Placio del Rey , and then raising about Miajada nigh upon 14 short leagues off ; upon this account 't is said they have the best bridge of Europe : the other is the Escurial , the Master-piece of the great and wise King Philip 11. though 't was no part of wisdome in him to have at once 3 such great designs , to conquer England , uphold the league in France , and to recover the Low-Countries , all which came to nothing , because as the Italian saith , Chi troppo abraccia nulla stringe ; however he built the Iscuriale where the Courts , the Kings and Queens Lodgings , the Fryars Cloysters , the water , the Gardens , the Library , the Chappel , in a word , the whole is a rare thing , but not so miraculous to those who have seen other parts of the world ; the Pardo , buen retiro and Aranjuez , I will hardly mention , those forenamed are the best things in Spain , but he who hath a mind to suffer so many inconveniences before he comes thither must do it by way of Penance ; as for Cities , Barcelona is certainly the most populous of any in Spain . The rest of these towns are full of pride , idleness , misery , cheats , treachery murthers and other oppressions , caused by their ambition , animosities , covetousness , desire of revenge , luxury and jealousies about Wives , Concubines , Daughters , Sisters , Neeces , and what other relations they have of that Sex , they account themselves obliged to be watchful over : yet for all their poverty they are taken with the vanity which is too common in other places , nor to observe a distinction of cloaths according to the quality of persons , for I have seen Carpenters and Shooemakers in Silver cloath doublets , and in extraordinary fine cloath ; but I know it to be their humour , that the poorer they are , the more they indeavour to hide it , the best countenance they put on , and the greatest shew they make : their very Alguazils or Bailies , who are the vilest sort of People , think themselves as good as the best in the land , and to see them walk with a switch lifted up in their hand , one would perceive in them as much lostiness , as if they were high stewards , or high chamberlains of the Kingdome . But to speak of somthing which is or ought to be the best in Spain , we must come to Madrid , the ordinary place of the Courts residence , which is far from being numerous , and their way is particular and different from others ; the generality of Women about it , are antient and tanned , but they use painting very much as a remedy to it : Yet I confess I have seen in Spain some with a very white skin , ( but these are scarce ) a brown hair , and a lively black eye , but there is not that honest Society of both Sexes which is found in other places : and great men do so affect gravity , and stand so much upon their formalities and points of honour , that amongst them there can be no sincerity nor satisfaction . Coaches in Madrid are drawn by mules , in them Ladies sit in the same Gravity which men do affect , they are almost like Statues without motion , and when they think fit to move the head , 't is done in so slowand so lingring a way , that one who is not used to it , would admire to see it ; for all this I believe if they had the liberty which others enjoy in other places , some of them would prove the wittiest and most gallant Women in the World , even as were the Moors in Granada , but as things stand they must live a very retired manner of life . On the other side , no greater prostitution in the world then there is in that Town , for the generality of Women : mothers make no difficulties to sell their daughters maidenhèads four or five times , and as often as they can to cheat men ; young girles begin to keep mens company when they are but ten , eleven , or at the most twelve years old , this is the cause of so much infection there in that kind , that it is a lamentable thing for any one who hath the curiosity to see their Hospitals of incurables , besides that horrid sin which to punish sufficiently no pain was found upon earth , but God was pleased to pour down , as it were , hell from heaven , causing fire and brimstone to rain and shower down upon earth ; about this horrid sin they have this proverb in their language , En Spania los Cavalleros , en Francia los pedantos , en Italia todos . A thing observable in the Court is the way of their Grandees , who sit down and put on their hats in the Kings presence ; of these men there are three sorts , some have it by a personal priviledge and special favour of the King , others have it as an hereditary right and propriety derived from their parents , and others in the third place , have it by a right of their charge and place , as namely the President of the Council of Castilla , who though he be not a Grandee , yet enjoys the same priviledge as they do . Charles the fifth was the Author of these Grandees , to gratifie the Spanish Nation , and in some kind make some of them equal with some German Princes who followed him in that voyage , and who by their quality and extraction , had the right of sitting and being covered in his presence , a thing which other European Kings do not allow of , Portugal excepted . Again , at Madrid is to be seen that cruel Bull-fighting , a remainder of those bloody spectacles used by the Romans for to give a pleasure to the spectators , men as mad as the Bulls they fight against , must encounter those wild creatures , and hazard in a combate which hath proved fatal to the lives of so many . What shall I say of Madrid it self , where are neither good streets nor stately buildings , antient or Modern , not considerable for the materials or for the rules of Architecture ; in winter there is nothing but dirt , and dust in summer , so that if for the space of three or four hours men have been to walk , their cloaths shall be as white for dust , as if they had been at the Mill , so that 't is no wonder if their cloaths and Taffity hats ( that is overlaid with Taffita ) grow greasie so soon . Above all , let not one who is there walk abroad late at night , nor very early in the morning , for as they have no houses of office they fling it up and down the streets , and how unpleasant these objects are to the Nose , and the Eye , let any one judge , yet about 9 or 10 of the Clock there is nothing to be seen , but all is dissolved into dust , & as men say , that one stench & poison drives away another , so their use of Onions and Garlick is by them thought to be a sovereign remedy against these Spanish Perfumes we are now speaking of ; the Air indeed is the only good thing at Madrid , for 't is very pure and free from the Plague . But if for all this men have a mind to go to see that stinking place , I will say to them in Spanish , Sea con pie derecho , that is in an English sence , Much good may 't do to them . FINIS .