An account of a late voyage to Athens containing the estate both ancient and modern of that famous city, and of the present empire of the Turks, the life of the now Sultan Mahomet the IV, with the Ministry of the Grand Vizier Coprogli Achmet Pacha : also the most remarkable passages in the Turkish camp at the siege of Candia and divers other particularities of the affairs of the port / by Monsieur de La Gvillatiere, a French gentleman ; now Englished. Athènes ancienne et nouvelle et l'estat présent de l'empire des Turcs. English Guillet de Saint-Georges, Georges, 1625-1705. 1676 Approx. 576 KB of XML-encoded text transcribed from 213 1-bit group-IV TIFF page images. Text Creation Partnership, Ann Arbor, MI ; Oxford (UK) : 2009-03 (EEBO-TCP Phase 1). A42320 Wing G2218 ESTC R13895 12850087 ocm 12850087 94489 This keyboarded and encoded edition of the work described above is co-owned by the institutions providing financial support to the Early English Books Online Text Creation Partnership. This Phase I text is available for reuse, according to the terms of Creative Commons 0 1.0 Universal . The text can be copied, modified, distributed and performed, even for commercial purposes, all without asking permission. Early English books online. (EEBO-TCP ; phase 1, no. A42320) Transcribed from: (Early English Books Online ; image set 94489) Images scanned from microfilm: (Early English books, 1641-1700 ; 714:11) An account of a late voyage to Athens containing the estate both ancient and modern of that famous city, and of the present empire of the Turks, the life of the now Sultan Mahomet the IV, with the Ministry of the Grand Vizier Coprogli Achmet Pacha : also the most remarkable passages in the Turkish camp at the siege of Candia and divers other particularities of the affairs of the port / by Monsieur de La Gvillatiere, a French gentleman ; now Englished. Athènes ancienne et nouvelle et l'estat présent de l'empire des Turcs. English Guillet de Saint-Georges, Georges, 1625-1705. [2], 422 p. Printed by J.M. for H. Herringman ..., London : 1676. Translation of Athènes ancienne et nouvelle et l'estat présent de l'empire des Turcs. Reproduction of original in Huntington Library. 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Understanding these processes should make clear that, while the overall quality of TCP data is very good, some errors will remain and some readable characters will be marked as illegible. Users should bear in mind that in all likelihood such instances will never have been looked at by a TCP editor. The texts were encoded and linked to page images in accordance with level 4 of the TEI in Libraries guidelines. Copies of the texts have been issued variously as SGML (TCP schema; ASCII text with mnemonic sdata character entities); displayable XML (TCP schema; characters represented either as UTF-8 Unicode or text strings within braces); or lossless XML (TEI P5, characters represented either as UTF-8 Unicode or TEI g elements). Keying and markup guidelines are available at the Text Creation Partnership web site . eng Athens (Greece) -- History. Turkey -- History -- Mehmed IV, 1648-1687. 2007-11 TCP Assigned for keying and markup 2008-02 SPi Global Keyed and coded from ProQuest page images 2008-03 Emma (Leeson) Huber Sampled and proofread 2008-03 Emma (Leeson) Huber Text and markup reviewed and edited 2008-09 pfs Batch review (QC) and XML conversion AN ACCOUNT OF A Late Voyage TO ATHENS , CONTAINING The Estate both Ancient and Modern of that Famous City , and of the present Empire of the TURKS : The Life of the now Sultan Mahomet the IV. With the Ministry of the Grand Vizier , Coprogli Achmet Pacha . Also the most Remarkable Passages in the Turkish Camp at the Siege of CANDIA . And divers other particularities of the Affairs of the PORT . By Monsieur de la GVILLATIERE , a French Gentleman . Now Englished . LONDON , Printed by J. M. for H. Herringman . at the Blew Anchor in the Lower Walk of the New Exchange . MDCLXXVI . ATHENS Ancient and Modern : WITH A DESCRIPTION OF THE PRESENT STATE OF THE EMPIRE OF THE TURKS . BOOK I. SInce it is Your Desire , I shall send you some other time the Relation of My Adventures at Tunis , and the Four Years Slavery which I endured in Barbary ; and I hope you will not repent of your inclination to see that part of my History , for my Imployment was under such Masters as have enabled me much for the satisfaction of your Curiosity : But your Request at present , is , News from the Famous City of Athens , and the Coasts of Greece , which I viewed before my Arrival at Athens ; It is your pleasure likewise that I send you an Account of my Remarks in the Turks Camp before Candia , where I was present at that time . I shall out-do your Proposals , and give you the particulars of the Life of Sultan Mahomet IV. and of the Ministery of the Grand Visier . It is pleasant to me , and reasonable , not only to satisfie , but exceed the desires of a Brother , who ( like you ) by a thousand good Offices in my absence , perswade me that the bonds of our Friendship are straiter than the bonds of our Birth . The truth is , a Person of your Curiosity could not have Addressed himself more properly than to me ; and , as it seems , you have already had some intimation of my Conduct in my Travels : Whilst my Companions were pursuing their Affairs , and employed where their Commerce required , I entertained my Curiosity , sometimes with Merchants , to whom I was recommended ; sometimes with mine Host , and sometimes with our Guides , especially if I found them any thing ingenious ; in that case I brib'd them to procure me the Conversation of the most Considerable Persons in those Quarters ; and where ever I came , my business was to inform my self of every thing . About the end of February 1669. I parted from Tunis in a Vessel belonging to Alexandria , call'd the St. John Baptist , which Vessel , though of Legorn , carry'd the Colours of Genoa , and was commanded by the Captain Crivellieri of the Isle of Corsica , which as you know belongs to the Common-wealth of Genoa : Crivellieri was a Gentleman , with some tincture of Learning , which is rare in his Country : He took pleasure in my Conversation , and during my Voyage , having made some benefit of my Experience in Navigation , he did me a thousand civilities ; told me that the Fraight was already paid for his Ship to Constantinople as soon as she had unladen at Genoa ; and endeavouring to oblige me to go along with him , as an inducement , he told me his Vessel was to touch at Porto-lione a league and half from Athens , to the sight of which place I was formerly most ardently inclin'd : But two years Service in the Wars of Hungary , and four years slavery in Barbary had cool'd me , and taken off much of my rambling Fancy which indeed was the great infirmity of my Mind : I had then thoughts of reposing it for a year or two , and to go try in my own Country whether I could not cure it by the pleasures of a retir'd life , and applying my self afresh to my former studies . However the Captains proposition startled me , and rais'd no small combate betwixt my Resolution and Inclination . The same day we came to an anchor at Genoa , he was visited by two Germans , two Italian , and one English Gentleman , who came in company from Rome , where they had contracted a friendship , and agreed among themselves to pass together into Turky . They had been tempted to Genoa , upon intelligence , that our Ship was to arrive very suddenly , and to pass from thence to Athens : Those who had advertis'd them of that convenience , had told them withal , what an advantage it would be to them to make their Voyage in a Vessel belonging to that Republick ; for since the Year 1665. it had been at Peace with the Port , and obtained a Priviledge of carrying out its own Colours ; whereas till that time She had managed her Commerce into the Levant , under the Standard of the French. The next day being come on Shore , the Captain return'd a Visit to the Travellers , and took me along with him . I found presently that they were Learned and Curious . They had provided themselves of a Quadrant well enough made , and a Perspective-Glass that was sold them for one of Eustachius Divinus his making , who was famous in Rome for those kind of things , and Competitor with the admirable Campani . The Captain knew these Gentlemen were for my turn , and smiling upon me , put the Perspective-Glass into my hands ; I eyed it a little , and looking gravely , to give my self Authority , I blunder'd out two or three Optick terms , that put my Gallants into a surprise , to find a person of their own Learning and Curiosity in the habit of a Slave ; but having deliver'd my Opinion of it to the Captain in the Turkish Language , the English-man and the two Germans embraced me ; profess'd they had found a Treasure , and would needs oblige me to go along with them into Greece : The truth is , the Languages that I spoke , and the Experience which I had , perswaded them they should be very happy to have me with them , and they express'd their Opinion in that point by a thousand Caresses , and a thousand importunities to tempt me . It is no shame to me to confess , that the Stock of one who had been four years a Slave , was too short to defray the charge of that Voyage ; and the sudden departure of the Ship would not suffer me to attend till the Trustees for my Estate could make me any Returns from my little Patrimony in Auvergne : But my Fellow-travellers supply'd me , and all things went on very well , and very honourably for me : They were content to take my Bill for a summ of money which they advanc'd . Could I have dispenc'd with my Natural Pride , I should have accepted of the offer they made of bearing my whole Charge , to the very Taxes which the Turks in roguery do exact from the Christians upon several unreasonable pretences : However , I would needs have it thought I borrow'd it only , though perhaps they might have given it as well . Our Ship was of Two hundred and fifty Tun , mounted with sixteen pieces of Canon , and set sayle the 20. of March 1669. At first we were carried with a N. W. wind with which that very night we doubled the Cape Corso , Coasting along by the Shore of Corsica , with design to put in at Porto-Vecchio , which lies in the Gulf of Arfiano , due East of the said Island . You see Sir , according to your Advice , I make use of Sea-term● , though my Discourse reaches no farther than the Navigation in the Streights : You justifie me by an irrefragable Argument , in telling me that writing principally for my own private acquaintance in Paris , I may well use such terms as are already familiar to them : Besides you are not ignorant , that unless it be those of the Provence , all our Pilots do use the same phrases which I make use of to you . Our little Troop of Travellers retir'd into a Cabin appointed them by the Captain in the Stern of the Ship , to free them from the noise and clutter of the rest : The Italians were call'd , one of them Bocca-negra , and the other Bianchi ; the two Germans , one of them Hermerstat , and the other Hoeninghen , and the English mans name was Drelingston . You may imagine , that persons who had voluntarily undertaken a Voyage to Athens , had at the least some smattering of Learning . The Country is so poor there , there is little of profit to tempt a Man thither ; nor would it indeed satisfie any Mans pains or expectation but a Scholars . Two of our number were excellent in Mathematicks and Chymistry , and all of us well versed in History , both Ancient and Modern , which was of great use to us in our Voyage ; for having provided our selves with certain Greek Authors , we consulted them with as much exactness as possible , to inform our selves of the Situations , and Models of several great Fabricks , which time had so perfectly demolish'd , that they were lost beyond the very tradition of the Inhabitants . Our usual pains and impatience in matters of Navigation , we sweetned sometimes by pleasant and agreeable Recreations ; and when we were tired with any thing that was intricate and knotty , we diverted our selves upon the Interests of the Princes of Europe ; For matters of State are alwayes the last part of the Conversation of Scholars , as well as of the entertainment of the Common People . The wind being contrary , and our Ship ( with much Veering sometimes on one side , and sometimes on the other ) got up into the mouth of the Gulf Arsiano , our Captain took his Shallop and went on Shore at Porto-Vecchio : He would not acquaint us upon what score ; but I understood since , it was by Express Orders from the States of Genoa to see what they did there in the business of the Magnotti or Mainottes ( for they are pronounc'd both wayes . ) These Magnotti are a People of Greece inhabiting part of that Country which belong'd anciently to the Lacedemonians ; and the only persons of all Greece that have to this present preserv'd themselves a Common-wealth in spite of the great Power of the Turks : But of late they are grown apprehensive lest Candia should fall into the Enemies hands , and after the taking of that Town , the Grand Visier should address himself to the subversion of their Government : Insomuch as the Magnotti have some thoughts of quitting their own Country , and establishing in the Isle of Corsica ; to which purpose they have lately sent underhand to the State of Genoa , to desire that admission near Porto-Vecchio which they were formerly offered ; so that our Captains business on Shore was only to inform himself how the Commissioners deputed by the Republick proceeded in the distribution of such Lands as were assigned them . Our Captain return'd , we sail'd directly for Malta , and , for the dispatching of certain Affairs , remain'd at Anchor half a day within sight of the Chief Port in that Island . About Evening a Shallop came on board us with an Italian and a Turk , who desir'd , by the convenience of our Vessel to be set down in some Island of the Archipelago , or some Port of Morea . The Turk seem'd a person of Condition , though just then coming out of Slavery . The Italian and he had both of them had relation to a Knight of Malta lately dead , who to recompence the Services of the Italian had given him the Turk for a Legacy . The Turk pretended to be considerable in his own Country , and gave sufficient testimony that he had been honourably imploy'd in the Wars both of Hungary and Candia : But with all his Merit , and all his boasting , he had not been able to ransom himself , though he had sent many Letters to his Friends ; the Italian hereupon ( his new Master ) was about selling him to a Captain who was recruiting his Gally ; but the Turk unwilling to keep longer at the Oare , if it were possible to prevent it , had so cox'd the Italian with assurances of honesty , and hopes of a good ransom , that they came lovingly from Malta , with intention to have pass'd together in our Vessel into Turky , where the Ransom was to be readily paid , and an inviolable Friendship to be contracted between them . We were at that time by accident upon the Deck , and heard them give an account of their design ; most of our Equipage fell a laughing , and derided the simplicity of the Italian , upon whom they look'd as a person little better than a fool . In short , though in those cases little heed is given to the stories of a Slave , yet they are never sparing of their promises , and to get leave to go and solicite their Ransoms , are never short in magnifying and protesting their own probity and gratitude . A Secretary who was with us , gave us an instance , and told it on purpose that the Italian might hear it : His account was this , That he had at one time seven Slaves of Acrioteri in Natolia ; that he had been perswaded to trust five of them to return into their own Country , and to go along with them to raise the Ransoms of all , and that he kept the other two as Hostages for performance of Articles . They pretended that at Smirna they should find Friends enough who would treat them handsomly , and supply them with Camels and Money to compleat their Journey ; and yet when they came there , and all the way beyond , they had nothing to trust to , but what they begg'd ; and when at length they came to Acrioteri , all their Relations were either gone or dead , or so poor that they were not able to relieve them : In a word , instead of paying him as they had ingaged , it was once in debate to sell their Master , and it was no small happiness for him that they chose rather to give him the slip : He had a thousand fears upon him ( till their Hostages were restored ) that they would have secured him : He added also that at his return he used the two Hostages very severely , but to no purpose , it neither brought the other back , nor constrained the two poor Creatures to ransom themselves . This Story quite altered the Italian , and expunged all his former sentiments of Generosity and Confidence . The Vessel that brought them from Malta , was still with us , attending an Answer to certain Letters which our Captain had received ; so that the Italian prepared to carry his Slave back , resolving to dispose of him to some other person : This he insinuated to the Turk , who to speak truth , at that time testified the greatness of his mind ; he seemed not at all surpriz'd , but having asserted his quality with all the modesty in the world , and protested that he would have sincerely kept his Parole ; he exprest himself very ready to return to Malta , if his Master pleased . This modesty and resignation in him , wrought compassion in me ; and by good fortune it came into my mind to speak to my Camerades of a thing which I had gathered from his Discourse . This Turk had told me that he was born in a place not far from Athens , in a Country to which all of us had a curiosity to go , and indeed would have purchased such a Person at a dear rate , if for nothing but his assistance during our residence there . I acquainted our friends how useful he might be , and advising them not to slip so fair an opportunity ; I prevailed with them to buy him : It was only the hazard of so much money as his Ransom would cost , which might be possibly repayd , however it would not be absolutely lost , seeing it would give us at least a fair pretence into that Country , and afford us convenience of seeing that securely , which we would otherwise have done , though with more danger . We propounded it to the Turk , not doubting but he would gladly embrace it : He finding himself returning to the Galleys , and that we offering so honourably to redeem him , expressed great sense of our kindness , and ●esolutions of gratitude . He assisted to make the bargain , and to beat down the price as much as he could . He had been ●ong enough in Malta to speak Italian ve●y well : We paid him Four hundred Franks , ●nd the Italian return'd by himself , and ●eft his Turk to make his Voyage with us . The first thing that confirmed my good opi●ion of this Slave , was the civility which ●e showed immediately to the person who ●ad told the Story of the five Slaves which had cheated him ; He was sensible enough that it had hindered his return with his old Master , and hazarded the continuation of his slavery ; yet he was so far from being provoked , that he came to him , embraced him with both his Arms , and thanked him for being instrumental in delivering him from so rigid a Master , and placing him with such persons of worth : We used him very civilly , and I entered into a more particular friendship with him , by reason of my smattering in the Turkish language , which was the occasion of our frequent discourse . His name was Osman Chelebi , which last word is a Title of honour , and given only to considerable Persons . Being got up to the height of Capo-Passaro , which is South-east of Sicily , we descryed a Vessel that gave us an alarm : We discovered by her Hull she was a Christian Frigot , but she carryed the Colours o● Barbary , which sent us immediately to our Arms , and our Port-holes were opened to make room for our Canon : We had no● sooner done that , but she put up the English Colours , after them the Portugal , and nex● the Colours of Ragusa : We were all this while upon the Decks , no whit delighted with this kind of sport : but the Frigot being as little desirous to put an end to our confusion , put out new Colours still , as the Colours of Genoa , Holland , France , and Hambourg , which last are very rare to be seen in the Levant Seas : Not long after we observed the Standard of Savoy , as great a rarity as the other ; and after that the Pope's , with the Arms of the Family of the Rospigliosi , out of which his Holiness was descended . Having taken down those Colours , the Frigot continued some time without any , as we supposed , employ'd in looking out the Colours of Algier , and Venice , which were hung up afterwards . Thus have I given you in part an Inventory of the Goods of the Pyrats , who by a new name , from an old word , are at this day called Capers , of which sort of Cattel there is scarce one but is furnished with all sorts of Colours ; by which means the poor Merchant is many times deluded , suffering them to come so near , upon an imagination they are Friends , that 't is then too late to get off , and they are forced to submit . We were not so taken up with these extravagant changes , but we could observe the Enemy preparing all the while to attack us ; and indeed we had but few of our crew that were desirous of that . When the Frigot came within distance of twice Canon-shot she slackned her Sails , to give us notice by their Shalop , that we should take down our Standard , and salute them with all the Guns we had in our Vessel , otherwise they would sink us to the bottom : In contempt , they sent this Message to us by the most inconsiderable persons among them ; yet one of them , more rational and civil than the rest , took our Captain aside , and told him the Frigot was commanded by a Christian , but a haughty insolent person who affected to make himself terrible , and his name you shall have hereafter . All his crew were drunk , it being their third day of rejoicing for two Prizes which they had taken from the Turks of a considerable value . Whilst we were in this suspence , the Frigot gave us two Guns with Bullet , and had like to have brought our Fore-Mast by the Board . Their Messenger told us we might perceive with what kind of Persons we had to deal ; that their fingers itcht to be at us , and that whilst they were under the fury of their debauch , it would not be discretion in us to provoke them . He told us likewise , that before he came away , they had prepared to burn our Sails , and to that end had ram'd into their great Guns Rags of Linen steep'd in Oyl and Strong-waters . Our Captain called a Council , and made it appear how sensible he was of , and how willing to revenge so great an affront , if we thought him in a condition to do it , but he refer'd to our advice , and was not much offended when we gave our judgments , that we were in prudence to quit our selves of those desperado's , though at the expence of a little Formality ; and to do it with as little dishonour as might be , we insisted that when we struck and saluted them , the Frigot should hang out either the French or English Colours ; But the Messenger told us it was not to be expected , his power was limited ; and that we must strike either to the Hambourg or Ragusa Colours , ( which were the most inconsiderable of them all ) and to no other ; and observing the Frigot working her side to us , he required us peremptorily to salute the Standard of Ragusa , increasing the injury by taking away the liberty of our choice , even of those contemptible two ; but the inequality of our force made our Captain constrain himself . We sent their Shallop on Board again , and they causing the Banner of Ragusa to be set up ; we Lowr'd our Top-sails , saluted them with all our great Guns , and to satiate their ambition , if possible , came under their Lee , which is the basest and most abject Formality upon the Seas . In this manner the madness of the Corsair brought us acquainted with the greatest part of the Standards belonging to the Mediterranean ; but his Ceremony at parting was nothing inferiour , and one must have spent some time in a considerable Fleet to understand what he meant : he hung out the several Flags that are used to distinguish every particular Ship , according to the rank and dignity of the Officer ; For having set up the Spanish Standard , he represented an Admiral by clapping his Colours upon the Main-Mast ; taking them down there , he personated a Vice-Admiral by setting them up in his Misne , and then the Reer-Admiral by removing it to another : In short , after this , he made himself another Officer , by hanging out a Flame at his Main-Mast , and at last , the Commander of a Squadron , by his Cornet , and with that he vanished . The Italians being naturally jealous , our Captain suspected there was more than ordinary in this insolence ; for my part I was not at all troubled to find there were people in the world that could mortifie the Vanity of Genoa , since they had a new Standard of their own . They have made no great advantage of it these three years past , since which time they have laid aside the French ; nor has this whimsie been capable of restoring the authority which they had formerly in those Seas , where doubtless they have been more potent than the Venetian . But how remarkable soever these passages are , our Physitian Boccanegra ( who for his divertisement kept a Journal of our Navigation , after the manner of a Pilot ) took no notice of them in his Book , where our Captain would many times look in curiosity , but could never find any thing , but by what wind we were carryed , and how many fathom water . On Saturday the 6. of April , and 18. of our Voyage , we discovered the Coasts of Greece , and by ten in the morning were got within sight of the old Castle de Maina , which denominates the Canton of Brazzo di Maina . We were obliged to keep at a distance of two miles from the shore , where we came to an Anchor in fifteen fathom water , ( for nearer there was no ground for greater Vessels ) the Castle lying to the N. W. Here we understood we were not above eighteen Leagues from Misithra , which is the name at present of the famous City of Sparta . In a word , the Greeks , like the Turks , measure their way by the hour ; and an hours distance is as much as a Footman can make in an hours time at the ordinary walk of a Horse , which is near as much as a French League or three Miles in Italy . The Brazzo di Maina is the Southerly part of the famous Country of the Lacedemonians , inclosed betwixt two rows of Mountains that run into the Sea almost full North and South , and form the Cape of Matapan , called anciently Tenara ; so that Westward the Cape makes the Gulf of Coron , formerly called the Gulf of Messena ; and Eastward the Gulf of Colochina , called by the Antients the Laconick Gulf. The Western Coast of Greece , begins at the Port of Calamata , which is the most Northerly of that Country , and runs on to the Cape de Matapan , where the Eastern Coast commences , and runs along bending insensibly towards the North , till at last it ends at Port-Rapani , the farthest Port in the Brazzo di Maina . The Port de Calamata , and the Port de Coron lie seven Leagues asunder , one of them W. N. W. the other E. S. E. But the ordinary way from Calamata to Cape Matapan is S. S. E. and about Fourteen Leagues . The Eastern Coast runs N. E. about ten Leagues from Cape Matapan to Pagana , from Pagana to Colchina it runs Eastward about four Leagues ; from Colchina to the Point of Porto-Rapani ( where the Coast is most bending ) it inclines Eastward for about five Leagues together . It may well be said that on the Western Coast the anchoring is not so good as on the Eastern ; for on the Western Coast the Ground is false , and consists much in banks of Sand , so that to Cruise upon that Coast at the distance of a League , it is necessary to have a Greek Pilot , or otherwise you must be perpetually Sounding . I could describe all the Soundings , did I not fear to be troublesom , for I have them in my Memoires as they were given me by one of the best Pilots in that Country . Calamata retains much of its old name Calamiae , of which Polybius makes mention . Passing from thence to the Cape , de Matapan , the first Village we came to is called Christo , which name was given it from a miraculous Crucifix , which the Grecians have erected in that place . The Greeks do not use emboss'd work , and therefore this Crucifix was only painted upon Wood. Christo of old was called Gerenea , and was the place of the Nativity of Nestor , whose prudence contributed so much to the taking of Troy. From Christo the Coast leads to Chiores , which is a little Chorion , as the Vulgar Greek call a Village . The Houses of Chiores stand scatter'd and dispers'd in a Wood full of Fountains , for there are more Springs of Water in the Country of the Magnotti , than in any Country of Europe besides . About half a League from thence lies the small Village Cardamile , which has kept its name from the time of Agamemnon ; it is one of the richest little Towns in the Brazzo di Maina , wherefore the Greeks do not call it a Chorion but a Chora , which is their word for a Town . The Banks about Cardamile are famous in memory of those delicate Nymphs which came out of the Neighbouring Waters to be present at the Nuptials of Pyrrhus the Son of Achilles , when he came into those parts to solemnize his Marriage with Hermione . The great Village Istechia is not above three small Leagues from Cardamile upon the Coast , but is not to be confounded with another large Town of the same Name not far from Thebes , and eminent for the great Battel Epaminondas gained there against the Lacedemonians . Our French Geographers will needs have the Castle of Maina to be the old Town of Leuctra , but they are much out in their description of that Country . About Canon shot from Istechia , the little Rock of Pecno is to be seen , about a Musket shot distance in the Sea ; the Ancients called it formerly Pephnos , and 't was a wonder to me that they should denominate an Island from so pitiful a Rock , whose top is no larger than the top of Mont-Martyr : However , in this Country it was that Castor and Pollux were born . It was told us as a great wonder , That upon the top of that Rock an infinite number of Pismires were to be seen ; our Virtuosi falling presently to their Philosophy , and canvasing the causes of so unusual a thing , the sagacious Bocca-negra demanded of a Seaman who had been there , if the top of it was not sandy , and what colour the Sand was of ? The Seaman had no sooner told him that it was very sandy , and the Sand extraordinary white , but he cryed out , That we need trouble our selves no farther for a reason , for the whiteness of the Ants : That ancient History was much to blame to have omitted so evident an Argument ; and for our further conviction he urged the example of the Bears and Foxes which are white , in Nova Zembla , and those Northern Countries by perpetual reflection of the Snow ; concluding at last , that either quick transpiration of the little particles in the body of the Insect , attract by their activity the colour of the Sand ; or else the colour of the Sand does of it self penetrate the substance of the Insect , by means of the humidity of the place . Pecno is equidistant from the Port of Istechia , and the Port of Prestean , which last is built upon the ruines of the Ancient Thalamae , a Town never very Eminent , but now most miserably poor . The Greeks call it indifferently Prassia or Prestean . Upon the Coast betwixt Prestean and Bytilo by the Sea side , there is an excellent spring of fresh water , very well known to the Corsaires . It was formerly Consecrated to the Moon ; and not far from it was the Temple of Juno , remarkable for the Oracles , which by way of dream , resolv'd all those who consulted it concerning future Events : I know not whether any thing of this Temple be remaining , as they assure us ; but this is certain , that in the Brazzo di Maina there are the ruines and reliques of many Noble and Magnificent Buildings to be seen , preserv'd as well by the valour of the Inhabitants , as the barrenness of the Countrey , which has taken away either the power or inclination of Forreign Nations to invade and destroy them . Nor have the Turks been able hitherto to supplant them . Bytilo is a large Village call'd formerly Oetilos : and as out of Oetilos is form'd by corruption Bytilo ; so the Italian Pilots have corrupted the name of Bytilo , and call'd it Vitoulo . The Harbour is large , and we anchor'd there at sixteen or eighteen fathom water , which would make it an excellent Port , were the bottom accordingly , but 't is cover'd with great flints , or little pebbles that hinder the anchoring , and many times cut the Cables . The wind that brings a Ship out of this Harbour must be S. W. and we would think should rather run it upon the Shore . If there be any good Swimmers in the world , or any Thieves more famous than ordinary either at Land or Sea , they are at Bytilo , in which respect the Greeks call that Town the Grand Algier . Next to Bytilo keeping close to the Coast , we came to Corotta , a place little considerable , either for Antiquity , or Port , which is capable only of small Vessels . From Bytilo to Maina is near seven hours passage , and Corotta is exactly in the midst . From Maina to the point of Matapan is only two hours ; and at the foot of this Cape , lies a small Village call'd Caibares , where stood formerly the little City of Cenepolis call'd otherwise Taenarium , from the name of that Promontory ; and thus ends the Western Coast of Brazzo-di-Maina . The Castle of Maina , is on the same place where formerly stood the City of Messa ● not much known amongst the Ancients but for its Neighbourhood to the ruines o● Hyppolae ; and a hollow part of the Coas● call'd by them Thyrides or the Windows ▪ By the view of this Coast we concluded ▪ that Maina is the same that Messa was formerly , and could easily collect why it wa● call'd Thyrides ; for observing the Coast from our Ship , we discerned several Grottos cut in it , and dispos'd in such a manner , that they look'd like a continued row of windows , and I will tell you hereafter how they are us'd to that purpose . There are three dangerous Rocks at the mouth of the Haven of Maina ; besides that it is otherwise very bad , there being scarce water enough for a Shallop , in respect o● the many quick-sands and sand-banks therein : The Town is built round about the Port , but open every where towards the Land , as all the Towns of the Magnotti are , and indeed it is generally so all over Greece , where , unless it be Constantinople ▪ and the old circumference of Andrinople , there is scarce a City that has a compleat Wall about it : formerly they had all very good Walls . The Famous Sparta was the only Town that refused them , as looking upon the Valour and Bucklers of her Inhabitants to be her best Rampart and Fortification . Our Vessel having been at anchor about two hours , sent her Shallop with a white flag within Canon shot of the Castle , which is the formality used when Pratique or Commerce is desired with a suspected people : The Inhabitants hung out likewise a white flag ; and a while after two or three of their Barks came on board us : Our Captain had no mind we should know his Negotiations with them , and to take off our curiosity of going a Shore , he endeavour'd to terrifie us with stories of the frequent insolence and rudeness of those people toward strangers ; but Osman Chelibi assured us the contrary , though there were several affirm'd that he himself would be in as much danger as any of us : However our own inclinations , and his confidence prevail'd , and he put himself with us into one of the Boats of the Magnotti : we landed about a hundred paces from some of the aforesaid Grottos , out of which we quickly perceiv'd five or six lusty Fellows to come forth , arm'd with Musquetons and making towards us , which gave us no little alarm ; their faces were black as Devils , but their clothes or the same colour with the ground , which they chose on purpose for the more easie circumvention of passengers , that is to say , of one another , for there are few Travellers to be seen in those Quarters . These Rascals do lye flat upon their bellies about fifty paces from the Rode , and appearing at that distance like so many little heaps of rubbish , a man suspects nothing , and is strangely surpriz'd to see them leap up suddenly , and come and catch them by the coller . The Magnott who conducted us , had a little barrel of Brandy in his hand that we had given him ; he proffer'd it to these honest Fellows to drink , who being much pacified thereby , each of them took two hearty gulps , and invited us very civilly into their Dens : Osman Chelibi encouraged us to go along , but we durst not trust him , and for more surety sate our selves down upon the bank . At first I was receiv'd but coldly with my Turkish Language , which at Osman's request I distributed very freely among them : I thought to have insinuated mightily thereby , but they pretended not to understand me , that I might conceive a better opinion of their Religion , and be taken with their contempt of the Mahumetans : This policy of theirs made me believe they were some of those who were to pass into Italy ; and when I asked them , they confessed as much . By degrees we grew something better acquainted , and in time came to some kind of confidence : We walked up and down together , and at last they brought us some of their salted Quails , which indeed are admirably good : There ●s no Countrey in the world that has more plenty of Quails , or better than theirs , and ●hey are careful to salt them up to serve ●hem the whole year . A Papas , or Greek Priest gave us Wine of his own growth , not ●t all inferiour to the Wine of Lepanthe , which at this day is the famousest Vineyard ●n the West of Greece : by degrees they grew very communicable , and inform'd us ●eadily of their Customs . It is supposed there may be about thirty ●housand Souls in the Brazzo-di-Maina ; ●ut as to their Manners , never any people were represented so diversly as they are at ●his day : Some will have them brutish , ●erfidious , and naturally addicted to rob●ery ; others consider them as the true Po●erity and remainder of the Magnanimous Greeks , who prefer'd their Liberty to thei● Lives , and by variety of great actions mad● themselves terrible , or at least respected t● other Nations ; insomuch that their Champions maintain , that the violences and ferocity of the Magnotti is but the effect o● their just indignation to which they a●● daily provok'd by their barbarous persecutions both from the Turks and the Christia● Corsaires . Be it how it will , of all the People in Greece , there were none but the Ep●rots ( call'd the Albanians at this day ) an● the Magnotti ( the lamentable remainder ● the Lacedemonians ) that were able to be●● up against the Turks . The Albanians we●● subdued 1466. in which Year their R●nowned Prince Scanderbeg dying ; at th● dispersion of his Subjects and Troops , ● good part of them retiring to the Magnot●● were kindly receiv'd , and had Quarte● given them in their Caverns and Mou●tains . As to their Religion , they preserve th●● of the Ancient Greeks ; they have amo●● them many Calogers , which are Monks ● the Institution of St. Basil , and several th● they call Papa's or Priests : But the oth●● Greeks have so little esteem of their Piet●● that when they speak of them , they say ● derision , If you would be a New Saint , yo● must go and live among the Magnotti . They have a particular Veneration for the Virgin Mary , for St. George , and for St. Demetrius , who is the Protector of Greece . Upon the top of their Mountains they have a multitude of little Chappels dedicated to the Prophet Elias , whom they account the first person that imbrac'd a Monastick Life . The whole Coast is full of Grottos cut in ●he Rock , which are used as Cells or Hermitages for their Calogers , who are as so many Sentinels to discover the Ships at Sea , and when any appear , they repair immediately to the Town to give Alarm to the Governour , and prepare the people either for their Defence or Prize : This is the use that is made of the Thyrides or Windows that we have mentioned before . The Calogers in the other parts of Greece by the Rules of their Institution , have the priviledge of Commerce , and may trade for Wines , Fruit , Honey , Oyles , and in general , for all the effects of their own industry and labour : But the Calogers of the Brazzo-di-Maina go farther , and have liberty of Piracy , and in excuse of their hostilities , they pretend slily when they go to Sea , that they go only to secure the tenths of the Prize in behalf of the Church ; whereas in truth there is nothing excites them so much as the desire of plunder ; and when they meet with any Prize , they need no● speak twice to bid them lay them aboard ▪ and yet there are among them very Piou● Men , and strict in their Lives . The Greek that is vulgarly spoken among the Magnotti , is the most corrupt of al● other ; for having a constant Trade by reason of the Commodities which they take by Piracy ; and Trafficking one day with on● Nation , and another day with another● they are much accustom'd to the Languag● which they call the Franck ; an ill favour'd kind of Italian that makes use of the Infinitive of every Verb , to express all the Tenses and Moods of every Conjugation ; and yet for all that lame and imperfect way , i● understood and spoke in most parts of the Levant . The greatest Trade of the Magnotti is slaves : They take all the Prisoner they can catch , both Christians and Turks ● the Turks they sell to the Christians , an● the Christians to the Turks . They are so far from concealing , or being asham'd of their Piracies , that they boas● of them , and take delight in giving a Relation . I found by their vanity in thos● descriptions that they were true Greeks ● and had learn'd of their Ancestors the A●● of flourishing and embellishing their Exploits : They carried me to one of their Grand Corsaires , and shew him as a person who had done strange things above the ordinary rate . When in the Countrey it was known that he was preparing to go to Sea , the Alarm was generally taken , the Parents that had handsom Children , and the Husbands that had handsom Wifes lock'd them up carefully for fear this good Gentleman should spirit them , and sell them into other Countries : they are in the same apprehension when any strange Vessel comes in ; for if any of the Magnot Corsaires has a quarrel to any of his Neighbours , their Wives or Children pay for it , and are stolen the next opportunity . When I was a slave at Birette , I had for my Comrade a young Greek who had been sold by the Magnotti ; he was only Son and Heir to the best Family in Modon , which is a considerable Town in Morea . A rich Turk in that City , famous for oppressing the Christians , had an itching after the young Mans Estate , and not finding a cleaverer way , he contracted with the Magnotti , who took their opportunity , whipp'd him away , and sold him to a Vessel belonging to Bizerti . Not many dayes before we came to an anchor in the Road of Maina , there happen'd a pleasant accident in the Cabans betwixt Maina and Bytilo : Two of the Magnotts , one of them call'd Theodoro , the other Anapliottis ( both great Corsaires , both married , and formerly great friends ) falling out about the division of a Barque which they had taken from the Venetian , and pillaged ; in revenge , unknown to one another , at the same time they enter'd upon a design of stealing one anothers Wives ; and it succeeded on both sides : They knew there was in the Road at the same time a Corsaire of Malta : Theodoro got the Wife of Anapliottis , and away he went with her to the Ship , but could by no means come to an agreement with the Corsaire about the Prize ; for having viewed and considered her well , the Corsaire refused to give what he demanded , and told him , it was not two hours since he had bought another much handsomer for half the money ; and that Theodoro might be satisfied he spake truth , he commanded her to be brought up ; She was produc'd , and Theodoro found it was his own Wife , and that Anapliottis had been before-hand with him ; He was strangely surprized , yet thought not so much of rescuing his own Wife , as pressing the Maltese to take the other at his own rate ; that when the whole story came out , ( as one day it was likely it would ) it might be known that both the good Women were sold at the discretion of the Pirate , and that he might not be alone the perpetual subject of mockery and disgrace : But Anapliottis missing his Consort , and understanding her condition , armed out a Shallop ( and Theodoro in spight of the quarrel joining with him ) they made up to him , and so hectored the poor Pirate , that he was forced to deliver them , or otherwise he must have ruined the rest of his Affairs in that Country . The Husbands , by interposition of their friends , were so perfectly reconciled , that two days after they were Cruising again together in the same Vessel , and looking for Prize : They might have been Divorced from their Wives if they had desired it ; for nothing is more common among the Greeks ; but they were both good natured and took them again . Not far from Maina we were carried into a long Cabin , in which there were two large Rooms hung with Cloaths , one side a la Turque , the other a la Françcois ; here hung the Turbans , there the Calpas or Greek Bonnets ; here the Sabers , there our Couteaux or short Swords ; here our Shoes , and there the Turkish Chippins . This Wardrobe was the Spoils and Trophies of many victories at Sea , where sparing no body , they make all Fish that comes into their Net. They offered us very good peny-worths , and a young Piemontois of our company , called Bertaldi , bought a very fair Vest that had been taken from a Greek Merchant of the Isle of Engia , which is an Island not far from Athens : For my part I had not the courage that Bertaldi had ; Cloths that are gained in that unjustifiable manner , are many times owned , and great mischiefs do fall out to the buyers . The Turks are every day sensible of the Cunning and Courage of the Magnotti , seeing their Vessels with Officers and Provisions for their Camp before Candy , many times intercepted by them . The Turks , however provoked , durst never formally invade them , or ingage their Troops in those hideous Mountains : instead of downright attacks , they have thought it more prudent to debauch some of the most mutinous of the people , and make a Faction among them . The Grand Visier has recieved and swallowed a thousand insolencies from them , which they did to revenge the death of ten or twelve of their Corsairs taken in the year 1667. and impaled in Candy by his order . They have come often in the night and burned his Ships under the very Canon at Canea , and got off without much difficulty ; for their Vessels are nimble sailers , draw but little water , and will run any where , where another will strike . To pacifie them , and furnish himself the better , the Grand Visier offered them double the price for all Provisions they will bring in ; but his proposition being rejected , he sent a Squadron to infest their Coast under the Command of Ássam Baba the famous Corsair and best Seaman the Turks have ; and indeed the very man , who having committed so many insufferable Violences upon several French Vessels , gave just occasion for the Complaints which our Ambassadors made against him , and was a great cause of the jealousies betwixt the two Crowns . Assam Baba having appeared with his Squadron of four Ships before Maina , hung out his White Flag ; promised an amnesty , and proposed to them to send Commissioners to Treat with him . They suspected it was but a design , and those of the Magnotti who were most disposed for Mutiny , replyed only with their Muskets and long Guns , of which they have great store . The Alarm was taken all over the Country , and they sent in great confusion to raise the third man quite thorow that Canton , appointing several Rendezvouses at Sytrè and Adrabysta , two of their principal Villages : In the mean time the Inhabitants of Maina carried all the best of their Goods to the top of their Rocks . It was a spectacle of strange confusion to see them haling their Wives and Children along those terrible Precipices ; and the Old and the Lame limping along , with each of them a great bundle at their backs , and driving before them their Flocks of Goats , which is the chief wealth of that Country . But the Women came back , and were present at the defence of their Shore , and by an accident that I cannot omit . It hapned that a young man in the middle of their March , overtaking one of the Women who had a Child of three days old at her breast , told her that her Husband had sent him after her to enquire where she had laid his Sword and Fuzil in the hurry . Tell him ( replied the woman in a passion ) that he come and look to my Goats , and my Child , and I will fetch his Arms and use them better than he ; and thereupon having put her Child into the arms of an old woman that was next her , she took her course directly to the Shore , and gave an Example to all the rest , who following her unanimously , came and put themselves at the head of their Militia that was already arrived at Adrabysta , and Syrtè ; it fell out to be at the same time as Assam-Baba was sending his Shallops on shore with Armed Men to repel them ; but the cries and comminations which these women sent up to Heaven ; and the marks of courage and undauntedness which she showed , did exceedingly incourage the Magnotti , and made Assam-Baba unwilling to hazard a descent . The Woman who animated them in that manner was of the House of Giracaris , which was the most ancient and most considerable Family in that Quarter . The next night ten or twelve of the Magnotti swam secretly to the Turkish Ships , and cut their Cables in such manner , that being dashed together by the agitation of the Sea , they fell foul upon one another ; were driven violently upon the shore , and several of their Men taken Prisoner , where they were plundered in sight of the two other Ships , which , by reason of the shallowness of the Water durst not attempt to relieve them . This way of infesting of Ships is ordinary among the Magnotti , who are excellent Swimmers . The Vessel where Assam-Baba was in person was saved ; yet this advantage obtained against a man that was the very Soul of the Turkish Fleet , gave the Magnotti such incouragement that they took the confidence to intrench themselves regularly at Cerifo , Maina , Collocythia , Cardamile , and Sytrè ; for till that time their Mountains were their refuge upon all occasions . The Grand Visier , who did not think this an Enterprize worthy of his Force , betook himself to an Artifice : He had certain of the Magnotti Prisoners , and among the rest one Lybiracis a considerable Person in his own Country . He found out a way to seduce them , and having discharged them , after he had loaden them with money and private instruction , they undertook their design , and by their practises , with their acquaintance in the Brazzo , brought it about , that the greatest parts of the Inhabitants being frighted or corrupted , consented that the Grand Visier should build a Cittadel at Porto-Caglie , and another at Bytilo , under pretence of securing the liberty of Trade ; for at first they were unwilling to alarm them with the name of Dominion . When the two Cittadels were defensible , the persons whom the Turk had debauched , seized of all such as they thought capable of opposing their Treason , and hung up five or six of the most active among them . In this the Turks gave great evidence of their cunning ; nothing appeared to be done by their order ; great formality was used in forming the process against those poor Creatures , who were condemned ( forsooth ) as disturbers of the publick repose ; and Execution done in the name , and by the authority of the whole body of the Magnotti . But their Eyes being opened at last , in spight of their subtilty , there grew to be two Factions among them , one of the Giracaris , the other of the Lybiracis ; and this at present is the great object of the Turkish designs , who would fain reduce this people to a condition of destroying themselves , without any Force or Invasion from them . The Posts which the Turks have fortified in the Brazzo , are each of them secured by an Aga , with a certain number of Janizaries under his Command . But this new servitude growing insupportable to the Magnotti , they have had thoughts of transplanting into Italy ; and that inclination is increased as oft as they see those Cittadels , which they look upon as the first step to their slavery : However , they are as yet irresolute , and who can admire it in an affair of so tender an importance ? 'T is probable the success at Candia will settle their minds , and what that will be , God only knows ; If it be fatal to the Turks , they will not venture to attack them , but seem to disown the Mutineers who will doubtless be supported by the Venetian . If the Grand Visier takes the Town , his Victory there wil● draw on the subversion of the Republick o● the Magnotts , either by means of the Consternation it will cause among them , or o● the Effort the Turks will be constrained to make , that they may leave nothing in all Greece considerable enough to give them apprehension . The Creatures which the Grand Visier imployed among the Magnotti , were every day insinuating into the people , and especially the Papas , and Cologers , that the Turks would allow them their Churches and Crosses upon their Steeples , and publick Market places , a priviledge of which the Greeks are generally very fond ; and all those who are dependent of the Turk , have often endeavoured to purchase at no inconsiderable rate . They do likewise promise the Magnotti exemption from the Tax upon Children , and that they shall pay but one half of the duty exacted in Morea , where every Male pays two Crowns a head . At Constantinople the Males pay three Crowns . On the Terra firma the Women pay nothing , but in the Isles of the Archipelago Men and Women pay equally two Crowns a piece ; and all this without diminution of their other Taxes , of which I shall speak elsewhere ; all which were to be excused to the Magnotti : and to inveigle them yet farther , they assured them that no Turk shall ever be permitted to live in their Country , but such Janizaries as will be necessary for the Garrisoning their Forts . These fair promises are the more plausible , having the reputation of the Grand Visiers word to secure them , who passes among them as a Man of great Sincerity and Honour ; on which score they cease not to cry up his rare Qualities to the skies , who in our dayes has found out a way ( as the Turks themseves say ) of distinguishing himself with advantage from the Greatest and Most Heroick Persons of their Nation : He has as they say , the infallibility of Conquering , with a peculiar Gift of keeping his Parole . Nevertheless among the Magnotti this reputation has no great influence upon such as have an aversion to the Turks , who to support those that are tottering , do as often inculcate the resolution of the Turks , to allow them but one Church in a Town , which is a menace that makes them commonly tremble . In a word , the most prudent and best disposed of the Magnotti do intend to transplant , rather than be subject to the Tyranny of the Turks ; and accordingly they have sent to the Pope to beg admission into the Patrimony of the Church ; and to the Great Duke into Tuscany ; but having been denied by both , they Addressed to the Republick of Genoa , which State reflecting upon the brutishness of the Inhabitants of Corsica , was the more inclinable to gratifie them , upon consideration that the barbarity of the Magnotti must be very great , if it out-did the rudeness of the Corsicans : This is most certain , if the late Treaty succeeds , never Nations will be better matched ; their intermarriages must needs produce Children which will be so many Master-pieces of ferocity ; for , which of the Corsicans is it , that having the least quarrel with another , begins not his declaration of hostility with a stab ? and if he misseth , his Adversary will be sure of him ; so natural to them is the spirit of revenge : Some of these Corsicans have been known upon an injury received to lye hid a fortnight together in the bushes , contenting themselves to brouze all that while upon Raisins , so they did but prosper in their ambush . This then is the present condition of the last Common-wealth among the Greeks , and if you will have the truth , the matter is not great ; for were it not in so much danger of the Turk as it is at this time , it would be always within two fingers breadth of destruction , by animosities among themselves , and the small reputation they have among strangers , who having no alliances with them , have no obligation of interest to relieve them , unless upon some pressing necessity , as there lies now upon the Venetians . On the seventh of April our Astronomer Bianchi took the height of the Pole at Maina , and made use of all possible precaution to reduce its Meridian to the Meridian of Vranisburgh , establishing their difference of 54 minutes of time ; for he Calculated the place of the Sun , by the Radical Tables of Kepler : He found the Pole Elevated ●4 degrees and 25 minutes . You know very well , that in the Mediterranean , the Elevation of the Pole is never taken but in curiosity . Those practises are used only in ●ong Voyages . But in the Levant-Seas , be●ng almost continually in sight of Land they ●ectifie their Course by the prospect of the Coasts ; and when by foul weather , or the ●owness of the shore they are not visible , ●hey take advice of their Pilots , and point ●heir Chart accordingly ; so by their Com●ass they guess probably of the course of ●heir Ship , and by their judgement and experience they pronounce of the place whe● they think they are arriv'd , but many tim● they are guilty of very foul mistakes . O● Bianchi would needs make experiment like wise about the variation of the Needle , an● was amaz'd at the Opinion of several Pilot● who maintained , that at the Point of M●rea the Needle would not vary at all : H● tryed the Experiment two or three seven wayes , and found by all of them , that ● declin'd two degrees fifteen minutes fro● North to N. W. The seventh of April in the Evening w● had scarce got on Board , before our Bo●● was furiously tossed , and for three hou●● together suffered great agitation by th● strong current of waters that is frequent i● all the Western Coast of Greece : The w●ters do run naturally towards the shore , an● when their violence is opposed by th● winds from the shore , the Ships are alwa●● tossed as ours was at that time by a stron● N. N. W. wind which blows constant● from Land : But the Sea was nothing ● rough in that Quarter , as I observ'd it tw● years since upon the Coast of Natolia : ● was then in a Galley of Bizerte passing fro● the Isle of Cyprus to Rhodes , where o● Slaves had opportunity to exercise the● Arms , and show their dexterity at the Oa● against the impetuosity of the current from the Gulf of Satalia , which reaches from Cape Sardeni upon the Terra firma to Cape Saint Epiphano at the Western Point of Cyprus . I hope in the continuation of my Voyage , I shall have occasion to observe the Currents which come down the Channel from the Black Sea to the Mer-de-Marmora , and from thence into the Archipelago by the mouth of the Dardenelles ; then I shall be able to give you an account of them ; but for those upon the Coasts of Maina , and in the Gulf of Satalia I can assure you by my own observation , and the report of the best Pilots in the Countrey , that they have three different sorts of Motion conformable to the nature of the Tydes in the Ocean , which have their dead waters , and their quick waters in three several fashions , yet all those motions equally proceeding from the impression of the rays of the Moon upon the mass of the waters . These Currents therefore have a peculiar Motion every day , for their force redoubles according to the propinquity of the Moon to the Meridian , and relaxes when She is farther off . They have a Motion likewise for every month which increases towards the New or Full Moons , and towards the first and last Quarter ; and the third Motion ( which is the most impetuou● of all ) is a sort of Motion that happen● eight times a Year , that is to say , in the New and Full Moons , at the two Aequinoxes , and the two Solstices . Not having had a Full Moon of twenty dayes near the Vernal Aequinox , I was curious to enquire of the Seamen at Maina how the force o● the Current had been there during that time , and they assured me , that for two dayes together , ( viz. ) the 19. and 20. o● March the waters came down upon the Coast with more than ordinary violence , and they shew me a place in the Banks where the water had got in , and transgrest its old limits above a Musket shot , and this without any wind either to assist or oppose it , for commonly the wind contributes much either one way or other . Our Captains private Affairs being dispatch'd , and the Magnotts having nothing farther wherewith to detain us ; we weighed Anchor the seventh of April in the Evening , the Sea being something calmer , and took our leaves of this rude kind of People . Having left the Old Castle de Maina to the Eastward , to gain the Wind and double the Cape of Metapan , we were forced to stand out to Sea , and fetch a greater Compass with our Ship : As we were steering to the South to avoid the dangerous Rock of Renesta ( which lies about a good League from the shore ) we heard a great thundering of Canon that way towards which we were sailing : The Soldier that was Sentinell upon the Scuttle could see nothing by reason of the height of the Coasts , but we , having no maw to ingage in other mens quarrels , declin'd them , slackning our sails because we would not straggle too far from the place where we were : But the noise of the Guns ceasing , we sail'd on to the Eastward , and doubled the Cape that was formerly so Famous for the adventure of Arion , to whom we are obliged for our Consorts in Musick , he being the first who taught us to sing in Parts . The story how the Dolphin preserv'd him when he was Ship-wrack'd not far from Tenara , is too well known to be troublesome to you here . The Mountains of this Cape , and generally all of them that inclose the Brazzo-di-Maina had their tops cover'd over with Snow , but at the foot of them great Herds of Cattle and Goats . The Skie was full of Crows , and they came so near us , that we were sufficiently molested with their noise . It is not imaginable what abundance they have of Deer , wild Boars and Bears . Not far off , we saw a vast number of Sea-hogs , or ( if you will have them under a better title ) Dolphins following our Ship , and rang'd , according to their custom , two and two , a Male and a Female , and the Male always behind : They did not swim quietly as other fishes do , but were still leaping up and falling down again into the waters , which our Seamen interpreted an infallible prognostick of ill weather . I never saw so many Dolphins as in that place , more camus'd , nor flatter heads , which is the beauty of that sort of fish : It was easie to distinguish which of them were most handsom ; several of them had long heads which were not so comely , but all of them threw up their noses into the air , and gave us ou● choice . Our Seamen would needs have it , that they threw up their heads in that manner , the better to hear the word Simon ● which they roar'd out as loud as they could call , supposing they follow'd them thereby : For my part , I think they did it for more convenient respiration ; for the Dolphin is a foggy fish , and almost stifled if i● lies long under water without air . I wil● not meddle with the secret sympathie whic● renders this fish naturally kind to Man , and tames it so easily to our hand : Such Problems as these , are the rocks of Reason , upon which the curious do too frequently split . Our Virtuosi ( being full of their Learned Ideas , and lying as it were at catch for any thing that might give new light to their old Notions ) proposed to themselves an Experiment about these Dolphins ; they resolved to take two or three of them with their harping-irons ; ( and if they took one they might take a hundred , their amity one for another , not suffering them to part ) the design was to dissect a Female , and examine the form of her belly , her breast , the situation of her Aspera arteria , and the communication betwixt her lungs and her nostril ; that if possible we might find out whether in the structure and fabrick of this fish , there might not be some secret analogie with the Inwards of a man , to which ( for want of better reason ) we might ascribe their kindness , and strange inclination to our Sex : But we discover'd that the inclination of Man was more powerful to them ; for the Italian Marriners would not endure that we should do them any mischief , calling them the Companions of their Voyage , and the faithful Sentinels , who by their leaping and playing upon the Waters , do give them constant notice of any tempest approaching ; and by this means our Experiment was lost . But the sight of Tenara gave us another contemplation . The passage into Hell ( if you will believe the Antients ) is there , and Cerberus tyed there by Proserpine to guard it . This is certain , on the middle of the Mountain there is a dismal hole to be seen , that was formerly consecrated to Neptune : the entrance is so horrid , and the depth so immense , that it gave occasion to that opinion that it went down into Hell : That it was by that Hercules descended , Hector'd Pluto in the midst of his Estates , and in defiance of him , brought away his Three-headed Dog. 'T is the common opinion at this day , quite through the Brazzo di Maina , that by this hole the Devil comes out a hunting every day in the shape of a Hound . In this Mountain Tenara there was found formerly good Crystal of the Rock , several sorts of Metals , and some Precious Stones ; The Greeks say the Veins are as fruitful as ever , but that the Inhabitants conceal it , for fear it should invite the Turks , and bring them sooner into their Country . At the foot of Cape Matapan towards the N. N. E. the old Castle is to be seen ; from this Castle the Coast runs two Leagues N.E. as far as the Port of Colocythia , called anciently the Port of Achilles : There the anchoring is good , but not so good as at Porto-Caglie , a Haven about seven Leagues distance from the Cape . To enter into the Harbour at Porto-Caglie we kept to the Southward Coast , where we found sixteen Fathom water : Towards the North , within Pistol-shot of the Shore , great care is to be had of a Rock , which is the more dangerous because it lies almost just level with the water . Our Anchorage here is in danger of nothing but a South-East wind ; The Town is large , ( and in it one of the best Fountains in the world ) it was called in former days Teuthrone , and was once a Colony of Athenians . Here it is that the Sea makes a great Arch in the Shore , to form the Gulf of Colochina , heretofore called the Gulf of Laconia . In this manner our Vessel sailed on to the Southward of Saint Angelo , where we were to double the Point . On the Shore from Porto-Caglie , towards the North , we found the place which was called in former times the Temple of Jupiter , and two large Rivers , where the Barks did frequently supply themselves with fresh water . The River that lies Northward of the other , retains still the quality of its water , which passed among the Ancients for the most pure and delicate , and least subject to corruption in all Greece . The Inhabitants call it only Potamo , which signifies a River ; but Pyrrhus called it Scyras , from the name of the Island Scyros , where he Imbarqued when he came into this Country to his Nuptials with Hermione . Beyond the River , the Coast runs into a Point , upon which stands the Town of Pagana , which name though it be the most commonly given , it is called likewise Pago , Gade Pagou , or to pronounce it more justly , Cape de Pago ; the Ancients called it the Promontory of Diana Dictynna , and the Town is built of the ruines of the old City Las ; its scituation is easily known by three Mountains , Hama , Ilion , and Cuacadion ▪ formerly famous for the Trophies erected there after the Macedonian defeat ; as likewise for the Temples which Castor and Pollux built in that place , at their return from the Conquest of the Fleece . About half a League S.W. from Pagana , is the little Island called Spatara , and three Leagues E. N. E. o● Spatara lies the City of Colochina , upon the firm land near the mouth of the famous River Eurothas , which passes by Mysithre o● Lacedaemon , as you please . On the eighth of April in the morning ▪ as we were within sight of Pagana , the win● began to rise , and increased so fast , tha● we grew fearful of a Storm . It drove us near enough the Shore to discover the large and long Reeds which grow in the mouth of the Eurotas , and they put us in mind of the Lacedemonians who made Mats of them formerly to lie upon . This River is now called Bazili Potamo , or , the Royal River , and might be made Navigable seven or eight Leagues up , for there is water enough , but then it is so narrow there is not room to turn , and scarce for another Vessel to pass . Our apprehension of ill weather , made us resolve to put in at the little Isle of Spatara , formerly famous by the name of Cranaz : But what think you did we find in a little Creek where we put in for shelter because the anchorage was good ? We found two Vessels , who coming the same road with us , and driven with the same wind , had put in there not above two hours before . You will be surprized when I tell you that one of those Vessels was the Christian Corsair who had changed his Colours upon us so often , and treated us so insolently . The other was a Turkish Vessel laden with Janizaries for Candia , that the Corsair had taken after very great resistance ; and it was the noise of that Combate that we had heard when we were off of Matapan . Lest the Corsair should begin a new Quarel with us , on point of Ceremony , we Saluted him , and Lowr'd our Sails : We had scarce come to an anchor , when by good fortune the Wind veer'd to the South , and a great Rain falling , the Storm ceased . Our Captain sent his Shallop a shore , and in it his Mate , to salute the Pirate ; our curiosity would needs make us accompany the Mate , where we found the Pirate very busie ; his Vessel shot through and through in several places , took water in such plenty , that all her Pumps ( though they wrought continually ) were not sufficient to clear her : This was a manifest sign that the Turk had defended herself well ; but we perceived also that the Turk had been as ill treated , for her Tackling was in the greatest disorder imaginable ; no Sails , no Cables , no Masts , but every thing in most desperate condition , and the relation we had of it was this . The Sangiac or Governour of Modon , had sent a Turkish Vessel with Ammunition and three hundred Janizaries to the Siege of Candy . It was the misfortune of this Ship , to meet our Corsair in the same height of debauchery , and the same impatience of being at mischief as we left him ; so that without the least scruple or hesitation the Corsair fell to work upon the Turk , who defended herself very well ; received and returned some hundreds of shot . But the Corsair observing store of Janizaries upon the Deck , changed his design of laying her on Board as he intended , and betook himself to his Granado's and Bosses ( which are a sort of Glass-bottles very thin and square , and holding about six pounds of Pouder , ●o which they give fire in four several places , by so many pieces of Match fastned ●hereunto . ) Their execution was so terribly great , that it burned or lamed the greatest part of the Janizaries ; this was evident by the strange consternation and terrour that it produc'd in those that were left , who not knowing how to secure themselves against them , sate down quietly one by another with their arms a-cross , and their heads hanging down , as people that were utterly lost , and had nothing to do but to submit to their destiny . All their refuge was in the word Alla , Alla , which they repeated often to themselves with a low and humble voice ; so that their Vessel being surrender'd , they were immediately clap'd into Chains . The Conquerour , forced by the violence of the wind , and the necessity of mending , was come to an anchor at Spatara . We arrived just as her Equipage quitted the Turkish Shi● which was ready to sink under them . Ou● Companions knew nothing , but by hear● say , of the obduracy and natural insolenc● of the Corsairs , but they had then time t● inform themselves . The Christian Seame● in the mean time did but deride and moc● at the Janizaries , jeering and imitatio● their cries and their postures ; sometime● hanging down their own heads , and sometimes forcing them to hang down theirs ▪ and when it was resolved ( their Ship being sinking ) to put them on Shore , they shuv'd them into a Boat together in a heap , lam● or wounded as they came to hand , with ● out any compassion ; and certainly they would have done it more gently had they been removing of Billets . The cruelty o● this spectacle began to work upon us , and Bianchi could not but beg of the Seame● to show more pity to those miserable creatures . But one of their Officers looking sternly upon him ( in a word ) with the eye of a Corsair , Would to God , said he , you were to pass only three or four months in the clutches of an Algerine , we should the● see what your tenderness would be for these dogs : The poor Italian had not a word more to say , but shrunk up his shoulders and went off . Not but many Christian Officers may be found who abhor such barba●ity in their Souls , but in policy they are obliged to dissemble it to incourage their Men , to flesh them upon the Turks , and to ●earn them to give no better quarter to those Infidels , than they are to expect from them . Whilst we were in this Island , one of our Cabal remembred that here it was where the famous Helen condescended , and gave Paris the first undeniable evidence of her kindness ; He assured us likewise , that upon the Continent right against the said place of his first fruition , the happy Lover erected a Temple to Venus , as a testimony of his gratitude and felicity . He gave likewise to Venus the attribute of Migonitis , and call'd her Territory Migonion , referring to the amorous mystery that had been accomplished there . Menelaus the unhappy Husband of that delicate Princess , eighteen years after she was carried away , made a visit to that Temple which was then a Monument both of his misfortune , and the disloyalty of his Wife . He would not demolish it , only upon each side of the Statue of Venus , he caused to be erected the Images of another Goddess ; that is to say , on one side Thetis , on the other side Praxidice , or the Goddess of Correction ; to shew that he desired she would not leave● his Wives infidelity unpunish'd : But Hellen survived him for all that , and he neve● lived to see that injury reveng'd ; she out-liv'd him , as is said before : but being a● length banish'd by Nicostrates and Megapenthe , she repair'd to Rhodes to a near Relation of hers call'd Prolixo , who Commanded in that Isle ; but instead of being treated as she expected , he caused her to be hanged upon a tree : Thousands have mentioned the story of Helen , who never knew any thing of her end . There was another object which much delighted us likewise , and that was , when directing our eyes on shore towards the place where we conceived the Temple of Venus had been , we were entertained with the sight of Mont Larissus , ( at about a quarter of a Leagues distance ) which is at this day an excellent Vineyard . We were told , the first ripe Grapes that were found in all Greece , was upon that Coast . We saw also a small Chappel and a little Cell of Calagers , probably in the same place where the Temple of Bacchus was built , that was anciently so famous for the Feasts which the Grecians from all parts of Greece came thither every spring to solemnize in memory of that great discovery . The prospect of this beautiful Coast , and ●he pleasant reflections which it gave us , would have entertained us much longer , ●ad not our Captain given us notice to re●urn . He had intelligence that the Chri●tian Corsaire began to be jealous of us ; ●nd that being conscious he had offended ●s , and withal sensible , that his own weak●ess and embarasment might incourage us ●o revenge it , he might well be tempted ●s by way of prevention ) to endeavour ●omething ( unexpectedly ) upon us ; where●ore we took the hint , and went immedi●tely on board : Besides we were afraid ●hat the Corsaire returning our Visit , his ●●nvoys should find Osman Chelebi , and seize ●n him as one of his prisoners that had ●scaped . Osman was much troubled at the misfor●●ne of the Janizaries , but he said nothing ●hatever he thought . The weather began ● be fair and favourable , so we hoised our ●ils , and took our leaves of the Pirate , who ● we heard since mended her Ship , burn'd ●e Turk , sold half her prisoners to the ●agnotti , and carried the rest along into ●hristendom . Sailing towards the East , we left Colo●ina to the North of us ; the Ancients ●●ll'd it formerly Gytheon , and it was the Arsenal for all the Lacedemonian Sea. T●● Inhabitants of this place would never o●● their Original to any People of the Eart● but boasted themselves a Colonie from He●ven , and that Apollo and Hercules who h●● great Controversie in this Country , bei●● at last reconcil'd , they built this Gythe●● and peopl'd it themselves . The Country ● uneven , full of hills and dales , but abou●● with admirable fountains of fresh water . ● would not have it thought impertinent th●● I make mention so frequently of the Sprin● 't is the best instruction that can be given ● such Ships as sail that way . The Turks call Colochina by corrupt●● Koutguina ; from whence to the Cape ● St. Angelo that Coast runs E. S. E. Up●● the Sea side stands Tsyli in the same pla●● where Trinasus stood of old ; and next ● that stands Sapico built out of the ruines ● Acriae . The next Town to Sapico is Por● Rapani or Rapini , where the City of ● ronthrae stood formerly , where there ● also excellent springs . The Port of Rap●●● is discernible afar off , especially from ● S. S. E. by reason of two very round Mo●●tains in the mouth of the Harbour . Ab●●● two Leagues distance towards the S. E. ● the Esapo or Esopo , which was the Anci●●● Asopu● . The Inhabitants of which place ● the time of the Roman Dominion , having Observ'd that many great Towns had Consecrated Temples to particular Emperours , erected a new one , and dedicated it to all the Emperours past , present , and to come . Eight Leagues S. E. of Asopus lies the Cape of Sancta Maria ; which Cape was by the Ancients call'd Onugnato , or the Jaw-bone of an Ass . South West of the Cape de Sancta Maria in the Chanel of Cerigo lies the Island of Cervi , call'd formerly Platanistunte : This Island , and the Island of Cerigo lie North East and South West one of another . The Isle of Cervi lies a good League from the Terra firma , and the Isle of Cerigo from the Isle of Cervi four Leagues . The froth of the Canal that formerly parted these two Islands , was the occasion of the birth of Venus , who was carried in the shell of a Fish to the Isle of Cerigo , call'd formerly Cythe●ea . The Venetians , the present Masters of this Island , have a good Castle upon the top of a Mountain ; the Coasts of it are all very high , particularly those towards the firm Land : The anchoring in some places is but indifferent , but on the East and South side it is very good . To the Eastward of Sancta Maria , not far from the Cape of St. Angelo lies the Gulf of Lavadia , with a great Town of the same name . Here was the Ancient City o● Boeae , built of old by one of the Sons o● Hercules . The whole Coast abounds with Myrtles as formerly , when Diana her sel● made choice of it . For her Town of Boeae ● and the Town of St. Angelo ( which give● name to the Cape ) are not far from it . Thi● Cape was call'd Anciently Malea , and is a● this day call'd Maleo by several good Pilots : It lies E. N. E. of the Cape de Matapan , affording a large Spring which run● out of a Cave , and great store of people . On Wednesday the 10. of April , the wind blowing cross from the Eastward , we wer● obliged to slacken our sails ; but coming fair the next day , we doubled the Cape , and steer'd Northward in sight of the Wester● Coast of the Country of the Lacedemonians or Laconia , which in vulgar Greek i● at this day call'd Tzaconia , and sometime● Saccania . The thirteenth of April , the da● before Palm Sunday we met an English Vessel betwixt the Isle of Caravi ( eight good Leagues from the Cape de St. Angelo ) an● the Island of Bella Pola that is ten . Th● Island or Rock of Caravi is a black Roc● of the figure of a Ship , from whence it receives the name of Caravi , which in common Greek is a Ship. The English Vesse● had furl'd the sails of her main Mast , attending another English Ship of her Company , but not so good a sailer ; not long after the wind came about to the East , but blew so gently , that we were becalm'd for some hours : This gave opportunity to the English Gentleman ( call'd , as I take it , Dreslington ) to go on board that Vessel , to see if he could find any of his Friends that could give him any news from Constantinople , from whence that Vessel came ; and the wind beginning to blow again , in six hours he returned : The said Gentleman had learn'd there , that every moment news was expected of the surrender of Candia : That for some dayes it had been reported and believed , that the Grand Signior was killed by a fall from his horse , as he was hunting upon the Mountains of Thessaly not far from Larissa ; but that the last Post had assured them that the fall was not considerable , and that the Grand Signior was very well . After this he gave us a relation of a great insolence that had been committed at Pera towards Monsieur Hodges Treasurer to the English Company in the Levant : Hodges ( being return'd from taking the air with some other persons of Quality of his own Nation , and not giving way to a black Eunuch who belonged to the Seraglio , and was passing on horseback thorow the same street ) was treated with insufferable ill language , and indeed such as strangers may well expect from the ferocity of the Turks ; upon which our English Camerade took occasion to enquire how a man was to comport himself in Constantinople : other advised him above all things to be cautious of entertaining intrigues with the Ladies , and remonstrated the danger of them by an account he gave of an amorous adventure , in which the person that related it , had a particular share : It is fresh enough in my memory , and I will give you a recital , but with no farther assurance that it is true , than the bare asseveration of the Gentleman who told it : And this I hope will be a testimony of my complacency , and how much respect I bear to your desire , that I should communicate eve● the slightest adventures in my travels . An old shew Jew , who traffick'd in Jewel● in the best houses of Constantinople , drov● a Trade likewise with such strangers as arrived at Pera ; and her access was the mor● easie , because she spake Spanish perfectly well , which , as you know , is at this day ● language common to all the Jews in Greece She was a Woman of intrigue , and he● brains were not alwayes working upon he● Jewels . Her greatest Commerce was with young Ladies , whose Husbands were either slain , or absent at Candia : Among the rest She had a particular intimacy with a very pretty one called Majunama , whose Husband was at that time attending the Grand Visier : About six months before , the good old Jew had fixt her eye on a young Neopolitan Gentleman who was arrived at Constantinople to take a view of that place , and proceed afterwards in his Journey quite thorow the Grand Signiors Country : He was a handsom man , about eight and twenty years old , and appeared to be a person of Quality . The old Jew immediately had her designs upon him , mentioned Majunama to him , and him to Majunama , and order'd things so , that Majunama had as great curiosity to see him . It is most certain these practises are more difficult there than any where ; yet it does not follow , that every thing that is difficult is impossible : and the greatest obstacles were removed by a certain dexterity the old Woman had , in disguising young men in the habit of her Slaves , when she had a mind to introduce them among the Ladies . The Neopolitan was timerous and circumspect , and would not be brought to such an enterview but with great caution and forecast . Besides the fear of her Relations , and the unexpected return of her Husband , he consider'd she might grow weary of her Gallant , and by an effect of her penitence or inconstancy , follow the custom of most of the Turkish Dames , who in like cases , do take such course with their Gallants , that they are never more to be heard of ; a Sack , and the neighbourhood of the Sea are of great use to them in those occasions . He confessed frankly his apprehensions to the Jew , who laughing at his fears , asked him whether he would be contented if the Ladies Father and Mother were sent to him in hostage ; if that would not do , he should have the Governour of the Town , but at length she prevailed over him so far that he ventured . Having been assured , that the Ladies do never rid themselves but when the performance of their Gallants is not answerable to their undertakings , he managed his stock with great prudence and oeconomy , like usurers who will generally promise more for the next day than they will give in the present : But he relapsed , and was always in his fears . After he had been eight days together locked up in his Mistrises Lodgings , lest she should cut his throat , he declared he would be gone , unless all the Swords and Daggers , and even the knives in the house were brought to him at night , and laid under his bolster . Majunama offer'd in rallery , if he suspected her , to lye by him with her hands and legs bound , but all that could not shame him into better security : The good Lady , to incourage him , gave order he should have what Wine he pleased , though at first out of a principle of Religion she scrupled to let any come into her house ; but in spite of her scruples , he found out a way to make her drink it her self : He was so fear-full of being poison'd , that he would neither eat nor drink any thing but what she tasted in his presence : She must take the first sip still , or nothing could satifie him : In the mean time an alarm was spread abroad that her Husband was return'd from Candia : The Neopolitan was dismissed , and he went away in such a fright , that he left Constantinople immediately : This report was only an invention to be quit of him , and Majunama being accustomed , and much taken with the Society of strangers , continued that Commerce by the industry of the officious Jew , who not long after brought her a French Gentleman , whose brisk and airy way was quite contrary to the timidity of her Neopolitan The first ●ime the Monsieur was slipp'd into her Chamber , they had all the trouble in the world to keep him from striking up with a Flagelot he had brought in his pocket , and from running over some Corants which he by all means would have been teaching his Mistress . More than once he would have been kicking down the stairs a deaf Slave , who had not come in as soon as he was called . But this Gallant was less pleasing to the Lady than the others ; she would have them brave , but not vain and obstreperous : So that Majunama was not much sorry that his Affairs called him away , and that he was obliged suddenly to leave her . He was no sooner gone , but the Jew began a new intrigue with an English Gentleman , who pretended himself a relation of the Earl of Winchelsy , Ambassador from England in that Court : The Gentleman was a resolute person , but no● so hair-brain'd and extravagant . Thes● two Lovers no sooner saw one another but they liked exceedingly , and having a mutual desire to continue their intimacy , made it their study to understand one another ● thereby to increase their kindness and reciprocal complacence . This Care and circumspection inspired them with designs no● altogether unpleasant . It came into thei● minds to make experiment how each o● them would , behave themselves in case it should happen , the Husband arrived and surpriz'd them together . To clear the point , each had his plot . After the English Gentleman had been a week together in her Quarters , as he was going abroad for refreshment , word was brought that two English Vessels were expected from Canea , and that undoubtedly if the Husband had any inclination to return , he could have no opportunity like that ; That if so , there could be no danger in their meetings , because care was taken that notice should be given of their arrival , and of the number and quality of the Passengers . This was his contrivance , and by it he designed when he pleased to alarm her with a report that her husband was come , and to see thereby what shift she would make to disintangle her self in case it were true . Among all the Family of Majumana , none was so privy to her secrets as a certain young Slave called Ketevan , who was a witty lass , and had made all the Servants of her party very cunning , to the end that being all Accomplices in the intrigue , it might be their common interest to conceal it . Ketevan was fair and young , and being taken with the bonne mine of the English Gentleman ; she had a snickering after him , and pleased herself much in promoting his affairs , in hopes some kind opportunity might happen in which she might be requited . She it was who discovered to him the late intrigue with the Neopolitan and Frenchman ; imagining that that relation might lessen his affection for her Mistress . They had many Consultations to consider of his Escape in case of necessity ; and in what part of her Lodgings he might be concealed to avoid the sudden return of her Husband . There was not a corner in the whole house but was examined , and the convenience and inconvenience of it thoroughly debated ; at length it came into Ketevan's head , that a Sofa in the Hall might be useful : ( The Sofas are holes about a foot high , of a competent breadth , and covered over with Tapestry . ) To make Experiment whether that would be commodious or not , Ketevan crouded herself into it , but found herself so close , she was in danger of being stifled . Whereupon she shifted out again as well as she could , with her heels foremost : the hole was so strait that she bruised herself with struggling to get out , and was forced to keep her bed . The English Gentleman was troubled , and indeed something too much , for the jealous Majunama did not like it , and their little apprehensions ●edoubled their desire of putting one ano●her to the Test . One day as the Gallant was in Majunama's Lodgings , attending till ●he returned from Bathing ( which accord●ng to the Custom of the Turkish Ladies , ●he did use constantly every Friday ) he ●aused an Alarm to be suddenly brought ●rom the Harbour , that the Husband was ●rrived in an English Vessel . The report was brought to another young Slave an Ita●ian ; ( for Ketevan was at that time in a ●ever in bed . ) The poor Italian believed ● real , and in great fright came running with the News to the English Man who dis●embled it very well . A while after , Ma●umana ( who had a mind likewise to put ●he same trick upon her Gallant ) returned ●rom the Bath in great terrour and confu●●on . Her head being full of her own premeditated fear , she took no notice of the ●retended terrour of the English Man , or ●er Slave ; but cryed out as soon as she saw ●hem , That all was undone , That her Gal●ant was very unfortunate to have depend●d for his intelligence upon his friends in ●he Harbour , for her Husband was cer●ainly arrived . The Englishman who had ●repared the same train for her , and was ●eady to have given fire , was exceedingly ●stonished , and catcht in the same trap which he had laid for his Mistress . H● found his case desperately terrible ; and ● the height of his surprise admired ( as muc● as he had time ) the subtilty of Fortun● that at her own pleasure could make a tr●● story of an invention . He could not spea● a word himself , but the Italian Slave ha● composedness enough to tell her Mistre●● that it was but too true her Master was ● turned , and that the English Gentlema● friends had been exact in giving him n●tice , and thereupon gave her the partic●lars of what she had heard before : Maj●nama was in strange consternation , imagi●ing that by a kind of prodigy , she had to ● truth when she never intended it . In t●● cruel agitation of mind that this doub●● imposture and fraud had produced in the●● both , they passed a quarter of an hour ● the greatest confusion imaginable ; the ● were all at their wits end , and not one ● the three but wished themselves sick in b● as Ketevan was at that time . Majunam● tearing her hair off her head , confessed th●● she had invented the news , and cursed h●● stars that had turned it into truth . T●● Gallant hearing that , began to recollec● and with incredible joy acknowledged th● same stratagem on his side : This discove● calmed their spirits immediately , and w●● ●he occasion of a thousand Caresses ; they ●ook a thousand Oaths never more to surprise one another with those sorts of trials , so much had the short moment of their uncertainty discomposed them . She asked him what he would have done if her Husband had been really at the door : He pulled but his Dagger , and told her that if he could not have stab'd it to the heart of her Husband , he would have done it to his own . She liked not that way , but told him , by so doing , he would not have in the least provided for her safety , but rather incensed the common Enemy against them both ; and thereupon she shew'd him a Cabinet of Jewels , and a little box of poison . The Jewels were designed to go along in case their escape was practicable ; and the poison to be taken when things were desperate , to put an end to all their troubles at a blow . They repeated their protestations never to be so ingenious for the future . But what do you think happened in the very moment ? The Husband being in good earnest returned from Candia , was knocking at the door , the Italian Slave who had left them to their endearments , and perceived her Master coming by a window that looked into the street , came running with the news in an incredible fright . They thought at first that either one or the other had a mind t● divert themselves at the old rate , but the cryes and paleness of the Italian dispelled that fancy quickly , and perswaded them i● was true . Majunama , who before had disliked the expedient of the Dagger , wa● the first that got it in her hand , but the English-man in pure love snatch'd it away again , and secured the box of poison les● she should have taken it down . When he had so done , he advanced with undaunted courage , and took his Post at the door with the Dagger in his fist , and his arm u● ready to strike it into any man that should enter : The Husband knock'd on , and the Italian pressed her Mistris to go and open it her self , and entertain him for some time below stairs as well as she could , but the poor Lady had not strength enough to convey her : In this inconceivable distraction , in spight of her Feavor , Ketevan crawl'd to them , and proposed to hide the poor Gentleman in her bed , having no time to consider of a better expedient , in he went clothes and all , but his Dagger still fast in his hand . Majunama was pacified for the present ; but as she was going down the stairs , she changed her Opinion , and gave way to one of the most unseasonable fancies in the world : Unhappy Woman that I am , ( said she to the Italian ) I cannot but be jealous : Never Lover went so nimbly ●o bed to another Woman : Never did ●ick person speak so heartily as Ketevan ; ●nd never did Mistris press her Gallant so ●arnestly to anothers embraces , Ha , Ma●am , said the Italian , recommend your self ●o the Prophet , and lay aside these unsea●onable whimsies : Hereupon Majunama went directly to the door , and let in her Husband , who look'd upon her surprize as ●he effect of her Conjugal affection ; having ●onducted him up stairs , she was tempted ● partly out of jealousie , and partly weak●ess ) to have gone back to her Chamber , ●nd reposed her self upon Ketevans bed : ●ut her Italian had provided very wisely ●gainst that , and lock'd the door , by which ●eans all was well , and the old Jew found ●way to convey the English Man that night ●ut of the House ; the young Gentleman ●eing happily delivered stood not much ●pon Constancy , changed his haunts , and ●as never afterwards to be found either by ●he Jew or Italian . From Pera where he ●dged before , he removed to the Poland ●mbassadors house in Constantinople , and ● few dayes after , having heard of this ●essel that we met betwixt the Isles of Bella●ola and Caravi , he took the opportunity , and Embarked in it for London . This sto●● the Gentleman himself told to Master Dr●slington . Our Vessel continuing its course , th● Gulf of Napoli de Romania , the Isle of s●dra , and the Cape de Schilly continued ● the Westward , and the Islands of the A●chipelago to the East : Of these Islands , a● the whole Country of Morea I shall ha● more convenient opportunity to discour●● hereafter . At length , to our great sati●faction , we found our selves on the 15. ● April , at the mouth of the Gulf d' Eng●● about sixteen Leagues from Athens . W● met a Saique ( or small Greek Vessel ) to t●● Westward of St. George d' Arbora , whi●● the Italians called Capello Cardinale , a●● the Ancients Albona : It is an Island ve●● low on the Northside , but on the South ● has several steep pointed hills , that disti●guishes it easily from the other Islands : T●● Saique was fraighted with Oyls , and Ski●● and bound for Porto-Lione , which ( as I sa●● before ) was anciently the so famous Ha●bour of Athens . Our Captain had hea●● news that the Cadi and other Turkish O●ficers , had of late imposed new Duties u●on all Vessels that came to anchor in th●● Harbour ; and being desirous to infor● himself better , he hall'd the Saique ; t●● Master of the Saique confirm'd what he had ●eard , and assured us they would make us ●ay at the rate of Six per Cent. for all our Goods . That our Timins ( for so they call ●ur five Sols pieces ) were decried , and that we could utter nothing there now but ●eales , or pieces of Eight full weight , and ●hat of them too they had lessened the ●rice ; for having always passed there for ●hree and thirty Parats , they were reduc'd ●ow to twenty seven ; every Parat is worth ●hree Aspers , and every Asper six or seven French Deniers . This being a great grie●ance to the Genois , and contrary to their Capitulation at Constantinople in the year ●665 . our Captain resolved to stay at St. George d' Arbora ( though the anchor●ng was not very good ) and to write to Athens to understand the truth , concluding ●o go to some other Port , if the Turkish Officers would not admit him upon better conditions : He sent his Pinnace to Porto-Lione , with a Letter to the Genoa Consul , who at that time stood very tottering in his Office , it being not only disposed of , but almost executed by John Giraud a French-man , born at Lions , and formerly Consul For the French Nation in Athens . This Giraud is a nimble man , and understands well enough , but he loves his pleasure , and particularly play ; for there a●● Gamesters at Athens as well as at oth●● places : When he was turn'd out of th●● Consulship for the French , he struck in wi●● some People , and got himself made Co●sul there for the English and Dutch. He ● a person that loves to make a noise and ● Parade , and with his bustling got into ● young Lady of the house of the Paleolog● and married her much to his advantag● for there is still a branch of that Illustrio●● Family in Athens . The present French Consul at Athens , ● of Marseille , and his name Christopher Ch●staigner , a Vigorous man , and one th●● stands stifly for the Interest of his Cou●trey . Upon our Captains Resolution of sta●ing at St. George d' Arbora till his Pinna●● return'd , Osman Chelebi ( who understoo● perfectly the humour of the Turks in tho●● parts ) came to him , and advised him ● threaten the Athenian Officers with th● loss of a Present which he design'd the●● for his anchoring ; and that to let them s●● how indifferent he was for coming in the●● he should put off again to Sea , and ma●● either for the Port de Raphti ( which li●● N. E. of the Cape de Colonnes ) or the Islan● of Zea , about five Leagues from the sai● Cape : He assured us that those two Ports were the safest in all those Seas , which was very true , besides that in either of them a Vessel may be supplyed with Water , or Bisket , or Wood. Afterwards Osman Chelebi grew more open to us , confessed he was married , and that he was not above five or six Leagues from the place where his Wife lived , adding with great circumstances of kindness , that if we would hazard our selves with him , he would shew us a very fine Countrey as ( possibly ) we had seen ; we all lik'd his proposition : The Captain sent his Pinnace to Athens , commanding it to meet him at the Island of Zea whither he was steering his course : We took the opportunity of a little Bark bound for St. George de Arbora : The Captain being informed of the place to which Osman Chelebi had tempted us , told us that he would stay five dayes for us at Zea ; that if from thence he was invited to Athens , he would give us notice by an Express ; but if the avarice of the Turks at Athens obliged him to pass on to Smyrna , he would send our things to Baphti , from whence we might easily convey them to Athens . Upon ●his incouragement we habited our selves ●ike Grecians , and away with the Bark that was going to Capo Colonne , which is the same that the Ancients called the Promontory of Sunion . It was not long before we got sight of the Columns of white Marble that are to be seen upon the point of that Coast , and give it that name . On the West side towards the lower parts of that Coast , Nature has form'd a little Harbour , where both anchoring and shelter is exceeding good : For the hills of the Terra firma do cover it on every side but the South , and on that side it is secur'd by the Island o● Garderonis , of old call'd Gadalone . Nevertheless there are sand-banks upon th● Western point , and our Master had like to have run us upon them . Here it was tha● we Landed , and believed our selves first i● Greece , for we reckon'd as nothing our debarkment at Maina . 'T is not to be imagined how all of us were pleased . Drelingston our English Camerade , to signali●● his curiosity , clamber'd along upon tho● hills that conducted to the Columns , a● being impatient to be admiring their Workmanship ; we all follow'd , and made it ● a good half League before we came a● them . The present Greeks , and the Italia● Pilots perswade us , that they are the r●liques of a Magnificent Palace built there b● Alexander the Great : But that is a m●stake , they being the remainder of a Gl●rious Temple built by the Athenians , and Dedicated to Pallas . We could observe , that the Palace had been twice as long as broad , and had Pillars round about it , which other Temples had only in their Fronts . Hereafter you may have a sight of a draught that I took upon the place , which will give you the dimensions exactly . Those who are skill'd in Architecture , and would know the true proportions of the Dorick Order , will be able to judge whether this was the work the Most Famous Architect hath so highly commended . Let it not displease , I beseech you , that I make my self the depository of my designs , and chuse to bring along with me when I return into France , all the Monuments , Bas-reliefs , Inscriptions and Figures that I have met , in Crayons of my own doing ; and upon this account it is , that I do not here trouble you with the Description of any one of them . There could not be a pleasanter prospect than we had among the Pillars ; the whole Archipelago was on our left hand , and nothing could entertain us better than to see , and consider the multitude of Isles wherewith it is furnished ; and our Perspective-Glasses were of great use in our view : forward we saw the way which we had come ; on our right hand the Gulf of Engia gave us occasion to guess in what part of its shore the City of Athens was situate ; and then looking Northward up the Country , we had a view of a good number of Cabanes , and the entrance of the famous plain of Marathon where the Persians were defeated . It came into Osman's head that he could discern the house where his Wife lived ; and that fancy redoubling his impatience , he took us off from our contemplation much sooner than otherwise we should have been . We made directly to the Cabanes , designing to lye there that night ( for it grew late ) and to take Waggon the next Morning to convey us to Osman Chilebi's house . These Cabanes were inhabited by those kind of people which are known to the Turks and Greeks by the name of Arnautes , and to others by the name of Albanians : Part of them came Originally from the Frontiers of Macedon not far from the Towns of Apolimena and Sapoza , and part of them from Epirus towards the Mountains of Chimera . These Arnautes are naturally brave , resolute and indefatigable , great thieves , and the same at Land , that the Magnotts are at Sea. If there be fifty Robbers taken , and impal'd in Turkie , 't is odds but forty nine of them are Arnautes . About the declension of the Empire , the Greek Emperours transplanted them , as finding them turbulent , and inclining to revolt ; it was thought they would have chang'd their humour with their soil , but they were mistaken : the worst of them were removed into Morea , and about Athens : Upon the death of Scanderbeg , part of his Subjects came to them , part of them removed into Poüille , and part into Dalmatia under the Government of the Venetian : Those in Greece are dispersed into an infinite number of little Villages , consisting of twenty or thirty houses apiece . Those who live near the Sea are much given to fishing ; those who are farther up upon the Land , have great herds of Cattle that maintain them ; but both of them are excellent at thieving , and whatever they lay their hands on is their own . In Greece they are of the Greek Church ; in Italy of the Roman Catholick . They speak three sorts of Languages , the Turks , the Greek , and a kind of Jargon of their own made up of broken Sclavonian . We had received so ●ismal an impression of the brutality of the Arnautes , that we expected they would have ●allen upon us , and pillaged us : But they were not so bad as we looked for . The ●●rst house we came to , we found the Master newly dead , and the Neighbours coming out who had been with him when he died . The dress of the Women was very odd , and 't is possible I may make you laugh one day at the sight of one of their pictures . After Osman and I had passed our Salamalekum , and saluted them , being wrought upon by Osman's good language and Mine , they received us pretty well . One of them carried us to his Cabane , and it happened to be at a time when it was clean and unpestered ; for the Cattle were by acciden● at grass , and there was nothing amiss in th● house , but the remainder of their fodde● In those Countries , the Master and his Cattle are Inmates , and lye higgledy piggled● in the same room . We had a Collation o● Milk and Cheese , and certain little Cake● made up with Honey and Almonds by on● Landlord ( who was Baker for the Town ) and to be put into his Neighbours Grav● according to the custom of that Country , They use them likewise to please the Children , who for that reason will be sure t● flock to every Funeral , and assist at th● singing the Eleyson . The door of the Cabbin was thronged with multitudes of people , and the Funeral Pomp being a rarity among us , is well worth our particular Relation . The Body was extended upon a piece of course cloth before the door of his Hutt , with a large Sheephook on one side , and a Carabine on the other , which ( being their whole equipage in Peace and in War ) are display'd constantly on the sides of the Corps upon those occasions . His Widow was not wanting with her shreeks and expressions of sorrow ; but in so dismal a Tone , that they provoked more to terrour than pitty : Her hair hung down loose upon her shoulders , only some few handfulls she had pulled off , more in formality than any thing else : Her yells were seconded by the consort of the whole Neighbourhood , after which they intermitted for some time , till the eldest began again , and was answered by the rest . The Men in their turns came up to the Corps , and every one in his degree accosted it with some saying or other that testified his regret . I do assure you , without the testimony of mine own senses , I could not have believed a thing so sottishly ridiculous . Why wouldst thou dye ? said our Host to him : what was it you wanted ? the purses of all Passengers were at your mercy ; and if it had been money you lookt for , they might have supplyed you . Another Apostrophised thus ; You were a terrour to the whole world , and do you not think that dying so indiscreetly , you have done a pleasure to your enemies in taking from them the only cause of their fear ? Your Wife that stands by you , never offended you in her life ; your Children never disputed your Commands ; your Servants were alwayes obedient , so that no man being more absolute in his Family , what was it that could provoke you to dye ? And the rest of their exaggerations being suitable , I was of Opinion , that they had been suggested by Osman Chelebi , on purpose to entertain us : But the truth is , the Arnautes do in this manner boast of their Out-rages , and ( which you would hardly believe ) design them as documents and stimulations to their Children , who dare not be absent from these excellent Panegyricks . One of the Neighbours had a particular way by himself , and it was thus ; Seeing you are dead , ( says he ) and that business is done , let me recommend it to you to desire Saint Peter to let you into Paradise , that you may look down into Hell , and see how the Devils do revenge us of those miscreant Turks who have so barbarously treated us . During all these Harangues , Osman Chelebi was attending at our Landlords house , otherwise the last good Gentleman durst not have used that expression in his presence . As soon as the body was interr'd , Osman came up to us , and told us , That if we pleased he would go before the next morning , to see what condition his Family was in , and prepare for our reception : We consented , and he departed before day with a Guide , which he sent back for us with horses about Noon : We mounted immediately , and passed on under the Conduct of our Calaous or Guide . Our Virtuosi ( who had imployed themselves very studiously in taking an account of the Country ) found that those Cabbins which we left , were not far from the place where formerly stood the Town of Cephale , so famous among the Ancients for the Veneration which its Inhabitants had for Castor and Pollux ; which Town was of the Acamantide Tribe ; the People of Athens being divided into Ten Tribes , as the Romans were into thirty five , and the Jewes into twelve . We left on our right hand towards the East the Port de Raphti called formerly Potamus , of the Leontide Tribe . Pausanias observed nothing in it remarkable but the Tomb of one of the Sons of Xuthus : But the Inhabitants were of old great Subjects of the Raillery and Comedy of the Athenians by reason of their giddiness and inconstancy in their Election of Magistrates : In short , the place to which we were to go , was a little on the other side of th● Mountain Anchesmus which was then in ou● Eye . This Mountain was covered with Thickets and little Woods , abounding wit● great store of Bears and wild Bores , whic● made it taken notice of at Constantinople whereas among the Ancients it was memorable only for a Statue of Jupiter that wa● set upon the top of it . When the Gran● Visier had perswaded the Grand Signior t● leave Andrinople and remove into Greec● that he might be nearer his Affairs in Candid and by his proximity give more life an● vigour to the Siege ; he proposed to him fo● the places of his Residence , either Larissa o● Athens ; and to invite him to the election o● Athens , they inculcated the great convenience for his Hunting ( which is his chiefest delight ) and the vast store of Gam● wherewith Anchesmus would furnish him ▪ But the Grand Signior had the same accommodation at Larissa from the Mountains o● Thessaly , and therefore in that respect , th● Arguments being equal in both places , h● rejected Athens , for fear the Venetians ● who were Masters at Sea , should come an● block up Porto-Lione , and in bravery b● tempted to land in some place under hi● nose to his insufferable dishonour . On the other side of the Mountain Anchesmus we met Osman Chelebi who was come to receive us attended with a couple of Slaves : we found him very jolly and pleasant , having found his Wife well , and his Affairs in a good condition ; as a testimony of it , he paid us down upon the Nail in the very Field where he met us , the money which we had laid out for his ransom , gave us a thousand thanks , and told us he had fixed our Caunac ( or Quarters ) for a fortnight at his own house , and that afterwards he would assist us in our journey . He carried us directly home to a Country-house , in a place called Emporion , which is the Greek word for a Fair ; for by relation , there was formerly a great Fair kept there , which was long since removed to Raphti . The house belonged to Osman's Father in Law , after the rate of propriety in Turkie ; for to speak strictly , among the Turks there is no such thing , Houses , and Lands , and immoveable Goods devolve still to the Grand Signior , and the Occupant is only his Steward , and is changed as often as the Grand Signior pleases . Nevertheless , if a man has friends at Court , he may be sure to renew , and Estates do often pass by that means from Father to Son ; but if they have no friends , they must march and give room to another . Osman's Father in Law was a jolly old Gentleman , he had been formerly Bey o● Negrepont , but his age having rendered him unserviceable , he was retired to spend the rest of his days with his Wife , and two Maiden-daughters , besides that which Osman had married . He had two Sons , bu● they were both at the Siege of Candy with the Grand Visier . It is reckoned very dishonourable for young men , in those parts , to live quietly at home , though in the nature of Citizens , when the Army is so near ; so that we saw scarce one Turk that was not dispenced with by reason of his age , infirmities , or employments . Osman's Father in Law ( who was called Mustapha Bey ) received us with great kindness in regard of his Son in Law , who had magnified his obligations to us . To do us the more honour Mustapha Bey had sent for three or four of his Neighbour Turks to entertain us , which was a mighty punctilio : for in those parts Turks are so rare , that for one of them you shall see five hundred Greeks , besides the Arnautes : As you come nearer Constantinople their numbers increase , and in Asia you shall meet as many Turks for one Grecian . Mustapha Bey accosted us very pleasantly in the Language of the Franks ; His Complement was this , In your Country we Turks do pass for very barbarous people ; and truly as it happens I am not at all ●roubled at your prejudice against us . For were you not already possessed of our ill Manners , you could not so easily pardon ●he ill entertainment that you are like to ●ncounter . He left us with his Son in Law ●nd his four Neighbours , who conducted ●s into a fair Hall , in the forepart of the ●ouse ; for you must know all their Houses ●re divided into two apartments ; that ●hich is forward , for the Men ; that which ● backward for the Women , who without ●eing seen may pass privately to the Mens ●partment , and by the help of little Galle●es and Lettices behold all that is done ●mong the Men. With inferiour people ●●eir apartments are less , and the women are ●ore shie and unwilling to be seen to a ●●ranger . Our Fellow-Travellers , in their whole ●ur , had not seen any gravity comparable ● the gravity in our four Turks ; no coun●●nance could be more composed , nor no ●●scourse more formal and starch'd . And ●nly if they find a Christian observes them , ●●e Spaniard himself is nothing so serious ; ●●t when they are among themselves they are like other men , as flippant and men● as we for our lives . According to the●● custom , Perfumes were brought in by certain of their Slaves , who threw a kind o● Napkin over each of our heads , that ( forsooth ) the odour might not so quickly evaporate . They presented us with tw● sorts of Liquor , one they called Coffee which is only hot water with the Fruit o● a certain Tree ( called by them Bun ) put i● to it , and boiled up till it receives a so●● taste , and an ugly black tincture , but they re●kon it an Excellent Cordial ; the other w●● Sherbet , which is a kind of Lemonad● Wax being very plentiful about Athen● they make little use of any lights but Wi●● Candles of five or six foot long . We ha●● but one among us , but it was so large as ● lighted the whole room . The Soffa w●● covered indeed with very good Tapestry ● but the Walls were as the Mason had le● them ; they think themselves extraordin●ry fine when they have them painted wi●● Flowers ; for the Figures of Men are n●● consistent with the Religion of a Mahum●tan . Upon the Soffa , in order to supp●●● were placed two Round Tables , each ● them about a foot high , which to Stra●gers is a great incommodity , for they a●● forced to sit cross-legg'd , and we began a●● of us to be afraid of that posture . To mortifie us the more , whilst we were standing in our dumps , a great Platter of Rice was brought in , and clapp'd upon the Table before any Cloth , Napkins , or Trenchers were laid , ( for among them they are altogether superfluous ) They have a long List of striped Cotton Cloth that runs round the Table , and serves any that has a mind to it , to wipe his mouth and his hands . For Plates , and Salts , and Forks , they are utterly unknown : They say that whatever is big enough for a Table , is big enough also for a Trencher ; and that Saltsellers do always suppose ill Cooks ; against Forks their objection is no less weighty , for , say they , what is it less than to repine at Heaven , and be unsatisfied with what Nature has given us , to make use of other fingers than those with which we were born ? The little meat in the Platter each of them took up in his hand , and biting off two or three good morsels , they put it in again , and then told us very civilly , that if we pleased , we might do as much ; but that great priviledge , considered with all their other circumstances of neatness , could not prevail with our appetites in the least . We had not been long at it before the Dish was taken off the Table , under pretence of warming it again , during which time we were desired to take a turn in another Room to which Mustapha Bey , Osman , and the rest of the Turks accompanied us . Ou● Conversation was very dry ; the Turks stoo● still fixed to their places , and would no● endure to walk : Having spoke each of them three or four words , they held their peace● and continued in most profound silence fo● a long time ; about a quarter of an hou● after , one of them began an Harangue , bu● stopped before he had spoken ten words ● and was as silent as before ; at length the● fell to their Beads ( for the Turks have thei● Chaplets also , and do pronounce Alla a● the dropping of each of their Beads ) I wis● with all my heart you had been a spectato● of Drelingston's mortification ; he that before was all life and fire , stood now as h● had been nailed to the Wall , cursing in hi● thoughts the manners of that Countr● which were so cold , and insipid , and so directly contrary to ours . He told me privately that he was weary , and that h● would get off as well as he could , and entertain himself somewhere else ; accordingly he shrunk from us , and was stealing ou● at the door : But the Turks stopt him , an● thinking the past raillery sufficient , Mustapha Bey put up his Beads , and carried u● back into the Room that we had left , where we found a Table spread , and a supper ready , as good meat , as well dressed , and in as good order as we could have it in France . The Christian Slaves had shown the utmost of their skill , and had borrow'd of the Greeks what was wanting in their own conveniences . Wine we had good store ; the Turks indeed drank none of it that day , but they made it up in their Rossolis , and the whole Company was in a very good humour . The Glass went merrily about , and the word Eskina ( which is with them a Good health to you ) was often repeated , and answered with Afietler , I thank you , Sir. Mustapha had given private Orders , that his Wifes she Slaves should appear suddenly at a little Window that opened into the Hall. Osman told us in our Ears , that his Wife and her Sisters had a mighty curiosity to see us , and it was possible would be peeping . We cast our eyes very often up to the Window , and could see sometimes the faces of Women , which immediately slunk away laughing . Our curiosity to see them kept our Eyes fixt upon the Window , whilst in the mean time they played us several little tricks . The Slaves that were waiting whipt away our Plates full of excellent Ragouts that they had given us , and stole into their stead the stalks of Coleworts and Turneps , and little Kittlings newly born ; whilst our eyes being fixed upon the window , we put them up to our mouths before some of us perceived the change . Not long after , the Women began to sing ; their Airs were soft and languishing , according to their way , but their voices excellent , to which they added the sound of little Brass Drums ( and they plaid musically and well . ) They danced likewise in Complement to us , but it was behind the Lattice , so that our Eyes had but little pleasure in the entertainment . In a word , never people were more pleasantly treated ; for repasts among the Turks being generally poor and niggardly , they lay it on upon these occasions , and are never so frolick ▪ nor will they ever refuse to be treated by a Christian . One of the four Turks had brought along with him a Son of his about six or seven years old , and a very pretty Child : His Father took it up in his Arms ▪ and hugging it , said to it , My Child , is you desire to be happy whilst you live , remember to do two things as often as you can , that is , to pray like a Turk , and feed like a Christian . In this manner we passed away our time with extraordinary mirth , till one of ou● Italians remembring it was the Holy Week ▪ began to take up , and admonish us to be more serious : I believe also we had forgot our Journey to Athens , had not on good Friday the 19. of April a Messenger on horseback arrived to us from our Captain , with news , that he would send his Pinnace for us a little above the Port de Raphti , to bring us to him at the Port de Zea ; for having adjusted his differences with the Officers at Athens , he staid only for us , and as soon as we came he would set sail , which put us upon thoughts of our return . We regal'd the Ladies of the house , and in the name of our fraternity presented them with a handsom Clock ( that we had brought on purpose , if we liked our entertainment ) and some other little things . When we took our leaves , Osman Chelebi assured us , he would make us a visit e're long at Athens : He acquainted us that it was his resolution to repair to Candia , and make use of his Friends about the Visier to be restored to his Timariotship , which was given to another during his absence . In the Turkish Army nothing but sickness can excuse any Man from being present at his Command ; and most commonly , when unable ( by reason of sickness ) to serve in person , they oblige him to find another ; in short , we parted with Osman in hopes of seeing him suddenly again , taking our way upon the Coast , and leaving Raphti to the North West . Our Boat attended us in a Creek where no Inhabitants were near , it lies S.W. of the Isle of Negrepont , at the end of a Canal or River that bears the Name of the Island , and was famous in Ancient Times under the name of the Euripus . Our Boat passed within less than a League of Raphti , which ( as I said before ) was called anciently Potamus , and is denominated from the multitude of Fountains thereabouts , which make several little Brooks , and fall all in together at Raphti . The Harbour at Raphti is the safest in all Greece , good anchoring , and seven or eight fathom water ; but its excellence consists in the shelter , being covered round by a small Island , which leaves only as much space open as is necessary for the entrance of a Ship. Upon the point of this Island , there is a large Figure of Marble ( of which I shall bring you the design ) and another Statue upon a little eminence hard by , but the best anchoring is under a little low Island that lies within the Port. Having left Raphti to the North , we avoided the Sand-banks which are very dangerous , and lye to the N.E. of Macrinosi , called by the Italians Isola Longa , which is the same with the Greeks . It is in length two Leagues , and runs from the N. E. to the S. W. It was called anciently the Island of Helen , because Helen landed there in her return from Troy. It is inhabited only by Calogers which live there with great austerity . From Macronisi we directed our Course to Zea , which is an Island that lies S. E. and N. W. with the other . We saw our Ship preparing and under sail to pass into the Gulf of Engia ; and we were no sooner on board , but she made all the way she could thither : About three hours after with our Perspective-Glasses we could discover the Coast of Macyna or Munychia that is not above a league from Athens . ATHENS Ancient and Modern : WITH A DESCRIPTION OF THE PRESENT STATE OF THE EMPIRE OF THE TURKS . Book II. THe Gulf of Engia is that which anciently was called the Saronick Gulf from the River Saron which discharges it self into it , on the West side towards Hexamele the present name for the Isthmus of Corinth . This Gulf is denominated from the Isle of Engia ( formerly famous by the name of Egina ) and so powerfull at Sea , that the Inhabitants of that Island were once in a condition to dispute for Soveraignty with Athens it self . The length of the Island is near four and twenty leagues , bounded on the East by Saint George d' Arbora that lies in the mouth of it , and on the West by the ruines of the Castle of Policastro , which is but two leagues from Corinth . From the Cape de Colomnes to Porto-Lione is twelve leagues , and they lie S. E. and N. W. one of another . This Coast has been so much infested by the Christian Corsairs , especially since the Wars in Candia , that their habitations at present are all removed a full league from the Sea. Our Modern Geographers injure them as much , for 't is strange that a Gulf so famous in old times among the Ancients , should at present be utterly forgotten , and that our Maps should agree so little about the position of Laurion , Munichia , Salamis and Egina . We have affirmed that Laurion lies three leagues to the Westward of the Cape de Colomnes , and convinced those Maps of errour which have placed it on the side of the Euripus , and this we have done , not only by the sight of the Mountain of which Thucydides makes mention when he speaks of the other , but also by ●he nature of the ground where formerly ●here were Silver Mines ; for some of our Virtuosi caused several pieces of that Earth to be brought to them , and found in the darkness of the colour , in the weight and dissolution , all the qualities of Ore , and Earth mingled with Veins of Silver . When our Vessel was North and South of the Mountain of Laurion , we could see the Sands upon the Shore , and the sharp Rooks in the Island of Engia , which render it ●naccessible on all sides but the North-West where the Town is placed that gives name to the Island ; the condition of which City ● shall give you more conveniently here●fter . The length of the Island from East ●o West is five good leagues ; the breadth ●n the widest place is but three : It lies ex●ctly in the midst of the Gulf , and the Gulf ●s twelve leagues over : As soon as we were ●n the Canal , we had a sight of Phalerum ●he Old Port of Athens , before Themisto●les advised to fortifie the other . There ●s now nothing left about that Harbour but ●hree or four Cabbins , forsaken by the Inhabitants , and pulled down and ruined by the Corsaires : The anchoring is very good , and a Ship ride in it at ten or twelve fathom water : Upon the Banks there are several Excellent Springs to which the Ship● that pass by do frequently send for fre● water . From this Phalerum to Athens i● but a league and a quarter , and in that plac● the City is nearest the Sea. Our Captai● had much ado to restrain our Gallants , wh● would fain have been landing at Phaleru● because the Learned Museus who invente● the Sphere , and discovered to us the use o● it , was buried there about three thousan● years since . Drelingston declared that h● had come from Orleans to Paris on purpos● to see in the Church of St. Nicholas d● Champs the Tomb of the Excellent Gassendus , who in his Astronomical Observation ● has followed the footsteps of the said M●seus , and that with the same curiousity h● had visited in the Church of Saint Gen●viesve the Tomb of the incomparable do● Cartes , whose new Hypothesis is the wonder and envy of all Scholars . He affirme● it was an honour due to the memory of grea● persons , and that the Emperour Charle● V. being in the Low Countries , disdained not to visit the Sepulchre of Buckeldi● the famous fisher for Herrings , who firs● found out the way of keeping them i● pickle , and salting them ; and as if his ow● ●●ngle visit had been too little , he took a●ong with him his Sister Mary Queen of ●ungaria . About a quarter of league Westward , ●n the bank of the River is to be seen the ●lace where formerly was the Fortress of Munychia so often mentioned in History ●or the beauty of its Harbour , and the Temple of Diana . The most part of our Maps do place Mu●ychia four leagues from Phalerum , mista●ing its distance , and Angle of position . ●t is called at present Macyna , but deserted ●s the rest of those Towns are . It is situa●ed so as to hinder the sight of the other Harbour where we designed to have come ●o an anchor , but the wind rising , we were ●riven upon the Isle of Salamis called now ●ndifferently Colouri , and Santa Broussia : The Proverb sayes , It is an ill wind that ●lows no body profit ; and it was verified with us , for our Virtuosi had a great cu●iosity to be peeping about that Island , be●ause it was of old under the Dominion of Telamon and Ajax , and was famous for the ●irth of Euripides , and the defeat of Xerxes ●is Fleet : But the weather was bad , and continued so all Easter day , so that we could ●ot get a shore as we desired . Easter day was Celebrated very devoutly , the whole crew were at publick Pray●● with great decency and attention : O●● two Germans being Lutherans , did thei● Exercises of Piety by themselves : Thei● Easter day , and the Greeks falling out tha● Year on the same day with ours , with th● difference only , that they reckoned it th● Eleventh , and we the One and twentieth ● April . We came to an anchor betwixt the littl● Isle of Psytalle ( which indeed is but a Rock ● and the Island of Colouri . The Rock ● Scyradion lying East of us , towards th● Coast of Athens . I shall not trouble 〈◊〉 self to tell you the great noise that Psyt●● and Scyradion made formerly among th● Ancients , for I am now in a place so ferti● in Miracles , I need no more than ask whe● you would have me begin . We could easily perceive the Rock calle● Ceras , upon the point where the Canal 〈◊〉 Colouri is most narrow , and nearest th● Country belonging to the Ancient Eleu●● and Megara , which Rock is memorable fo● being the place where Xerxes upon his Si●ver Throne beheld the Battel betwixt hi● Fleet and the Grecian . To the N. E. of this Rock there is ● good Harbour called Porto-Longo , or th● Harbour for the Gallies . Here there is con●tantly a passage-Boat that goes from Co●●uri to Athens and back again , the di●tance betwixt them being no more than ●wo leagues . The next morning being the 22. of April , ●ur Troop of Travellers put themselves on ●oard a Shallop to go ashore at Coluri : I ●ore them Company , and we came into a ●arrow Creek to the Southward of the Isle : We landed at the farther end of the Creek , where we found about a hundred Caves , ●nd about twice as many pittifull Cabbins , which is all they have to show for their Capital City , and is the miserable remain●er of the whole Kingdom of Ajax . The ●umber of the Inhabitants amounts not to ●bove four hundred : When ever they decry a Vessel at Sea ( though never so small ) ●hey betake themselves immediately to their ●oles , and if possible , those holes that are ●●rthest off , for fear it should prove a Cor●aire , by whom they are frequently visited , ●arried off , and sold in foreign Countries : They no sooner perceived us , but they fled ●n mighty confusion , and we could easily ●ear the noise which they made in driving ●heir Cattel , and forcing them into their Caves . One of our Company over-took ●n old man whose legs were too feeble to ●arry him off ; we comforted and convinced him by our Caresses and Behaviour that ● were no Corsaires , insomuch that he carri●● us to the mouth of a Cavern , and havi●● secured them upon his word , five or six ● the Islanders came out to us : We used the●● kindly , demanding Victualls only for o● Money , and something we gave them o●● and above ; upon which a Signal being ●ven , the Men and Cattel , and all began ● appear : We bought very good Partrid●● at the rate of a Timin a douzen , and as ● were told we bought them too dear ; th●● the Timins were currant , but they told ● they would not pass at Athens , ( where th● were cryed down , because the Italian M●●chants had brought thither great quantiti● of false , which they had coyned private ● upon the Mountains of Genoa ) howev●● they knew how to put them off in the Is●● of the Archipelago . They brought us ● feed in a little Church , but the Vicar w● gone to Athens . We scrupled it much , a● told them , that to eat there could not co●sist with our reverence for the place : The● were much pleased at our preciseness , b● told us , That seeing it was God that ga●● us to eat , they saw no reason why we shou●● refuse to make use of it in his house . T●● Wine they provided was indifferently goo● but their water was excellent , and fetch●● from a spring not far from the Church : But these poor wretches have cursed that Spring a thousand times , for being the occasion of so many Visits from the Corsaires . I do not question but in our walk we met ( though we did not know it ) with the Closet where Euripides composed some of his Tragedies ; for History tells us , that for fear of interruption , he made them in one of the privatest Caverns of the Island , and we saw good store of them . Euripides was born in this Island of a poor Woman , who got her living by selling of Herbs : to expiate the meanness of his Extraction , he came to Athens , where he studied Physick under Anaxagoras , Rhetorick under Prodicus , and Morality under Socrates ; so that in that Age Learning was necessary to compleat and adapt any thing for the Stage . We returned to our Ship again about ten of the Clock , where we found the Consul of Genoa and his Dragoman or Interpreter ( for every Consul has one allowed him , to facilitate his Negotiations with the Turks ) our Captain agreed with them concerning the ordinary Duties that each Vessel pays at Porto-Lione , that is to say , two per Cent. to the Consul ; as much to the Dragoman , and three per Cent. to the Vaywode , who is the Master of the Custom-house at Athen● They agreed likewise about the Presents ● be made to the Turkish Officers , and part●cularly to the Cady , who having a powe● to lay what Tax he pleases upon Merchan● Goods that are brought into that Harbou● by Strangers , does many times use hi● own Liberty , and act without any regar● to justice if he be not presented . Fro● Athens the Commodities exported are pri●cipally Silks , Oyls , Skins , and a kind ● Gauls which in times of Peace the Ve●tians buy in great quantities , and use in d●ing . If a Ship puts into that Harbour● though it neither buys nor sells , nor exercises any sort of Commerce , yet it pay ● Crown for anchoring to the Consul of i● own Country ; but paying two per Cen● the Consul is obliged to look after thei● Effects , and to a particular care of the Interest of their Nation . He is Judge , an● determines in all Controversies about Trad● betwixt the Merchants of that Country b● whom he is imployed : He is the Chi●● Person concerned to extend their Jurisdict●on , and vindicate their Priviledges : 〈◊〉 short , his Authority is so considerable , tha● it is the occasion of great jealousies , an● many times the ruine of the Competiton ▪ For those Christian Countries ( who hav● no Ambassador nor Resident at Constantinople , and are constrained to put themselves under the protection of some setled and established Consul ) are in perpetual difference , and obliged to be continually presenting and greasing the Bassa's and Sangiac's to countermine their Competitors : And it is no small part of the cunning of the Turkish Officers to seem to incline to one Nation , to spur up the rest in their Contributions . By this Artifice they squeez Money out of the Merchants of all Countries , pretending sometimes to take cognizance of their disputes , and to bring them before their Turkish Tribunals , and the surest way to divert them is to present them liberally . The Armenians do likewise create us much trouble , for having no right of Consulship of their own , the other Consuls repine to do their business , which turns often to their ruine . Formerly there was only the Emperours Ambassaddor Resident at Constantinople , and he medled not in matters of Trade ; but for these four or five years , since the taking of Newhausel , and the peace that followed thereupon , a Company was erected in Vienna that Traded by the Danube into Turky , and the Emperours Ambassador there invested with the priviledges of the Consulship ; for in that Court there are no other Consuls , but Ambassadors and Residents . The French Nation being allowed a Church in Athens ; for the maintenance o● it , every French Vessel is forced to pay five Crowns , besides what the Vaywood exact of us more than of other Nations : But 't is probable the Reputation of our King , and his Arms , and the prudence of our Ambsassadours will put a stop to their Extortio● in a short time : Nevertheless hitherto thi● has been no advantage to the Affairs of ou● Consul Monsieur Chastagner , though he retains the Title and Priviledges of Consu● of Morea , and has under him Vice-Consul at Patras , Napoli , and other places ; upo● which score he is about resigning to one o● his Brothers : All charges born , the Consulship brings him not in clearly above fiv● hundred Franks per Annum . He complained much of Monsieur Giraud , attributin● most of our losses in that nature to his private intelligence with several Merchants o● other Nations , by which they have bee● perswaded to commit their Affairs to th● Protection of the English Consul , to th● no small detriment of our own : And doubtless it will be much worse if Girau● be made Consul for Genoa , as I was advised he would be before I came from Athens ; whereupon I took a resolution , and was much incouraged in it by my friends . The love and interest of my Country working strongly upon my mind ( though with Monsieur Giraud they seemed utterly forgotten , otherwise he would never have promoted the Interest of another Country at that time in Hostility with France ) I thought it discretion to provide in time against the Rencounters I might have with him . I considered that if I passed for a Frenchman in Athens , I should be obliged in duty and inclination to defend the rights , and propagate the Interest of our Consul in all our Conversations ; and the little Figure I made in the World , would add but little to the advantage of my Country by all the clutter I could make : Besides , I had occasion to be beholding to our Captain , with whom that would have put me at variance ; so that I spake to all our Crew to let me pass for a Genoese to avoid those unprofitable Contests , and they did as I desired . In a word , about one a Clock at noon we arrived at Porto-lione , it being not above three Leagues from thence to Coluri ; yet in that little distance we observed there were Currents that ran directly upon the Coast . The Shore at Porto-lione bends into three several bows , which do make so many Harbours , all of them excellent for anchoring shelter , and largeness , and sufficient to justifie the wisdom of Themistocles , who preferred them to the Haven at Phalerm . Fou● hundred Sale of Ships may ride there very safe at nine , ten , twelve , and in some places at fifteen fathom water . To the Westward they are covered by the Island of Belbina , now called the Island of Blenda , no inhabited at present , and useful only in furnishing wood for the Ships . Of the thre● Harbours the middle is properly Porto-lione , and runs N. N. E. the entrance is narrow , and it is that which makes it so safe ▪ Upon the Rocks in the Sea may be seen th● piles of stone to which the Chain is fastne ▪ for the stopping up of the Harbour . In th● bigger Harbour there is a lesser for the Gallies , and that is it which the Italians ca● Darse , or Darsine . The Ancients calle● one of these three Ports Aphrodiston becaus● of the Temple of Venus that was near it ▪ another they called Cantharon from Canth●rus , and the third was called Zea , as bein● designed for the unlading of Corn. W● were no sooner landed , but the first thin● we did was to Curse the Romans and thei● barbarous Consul Sylla , who having abo●● 1754 years since sacked the City of Athens , destroyed Pyraeum into the bargain . It was with great displeasure we surveyed the solitude and desolation of Porto-lione ; we were all of us inquisitive after the famous Temples of Jupiter , Minerva , and Venus , and the five Portico's , which being joined together , were called Macra Stoa , in imitation of that which was at Athens : We enquired after the Theatre of Bacchus , of which Thucydides and Xenophon made men●ion . Of the Tribunal of Phreattys , and ●he famous Library of Appollicon where his ●ncomparable Writings were found , which ●re now lost , and memorable by nothing ●ut the mention made of them by Diogenes Laertius . We enquired after the magnifi●ent Arsenal , a Master-piece of that inimita●le Architect Philo , for the admirable con●eniences made for the receipt and security ●f the Gallies : after all which we required ●ery earnestly one among another , ( for ●esides our selves there was not one person ●o be seen ) where those times were when ●our or five hundred Ships sailed out of ●his Port together : when multitudes of ●eople on one side , and Seamen on the o●her , were heard reciprocally to shout out ●●ier Agati tuki , Farewell to you : Euploia , ● good Voyage to you : and Pronoia Sozouza , Providence keep you . What are become , said we , of all their famous Admirals , their Commanders of Squadrons , and the two Magistrates which they called Apostles , or Commissioners of the Navy ? In a word , where are all those Trierarques or rich Citizens , who were obliged to build at their own expence a certain number of Ships according to their respective Estates ? What a most excellent order , and how beneficial to the publick was it , as soon as a Citizen was arrived at an Estate of 18000 Livers to have him denominated a Trierarque , and obliged at his own charge to set out a Ship ▪ If his Fortune was double , he furnished out two , but he was not constrained to se● out above three though his Estate was never so immense . When there were no● Citizens enough to be found able to expend 18000 Livers , several of them wer● laid together , and built a Ship among them ▪ but then it was laid so impartially that n● body could complain . If any though● himself aggrieved , he had no more to d● but to make it appear that his Neighbou● was better able than himself , and he tha● was proved so , was sure to be put in hi● place . Thus was this noble and ingenious people as it were distracted betwixt th● love of Literature and Navigation , whil● each Parent was enjoined to teach his Children both to Read and to Swim . Pyraeum had formerly the glory within the compass of its walls to see some of the first Schools of Philosophy in the world : For in that , as in other Countries , the gross ignorance and brutality of former Ages having contracted a strange depravity and corruption in their Manners ; in process of time there came forth a small number of virtuous and ingenious persons , who applied themselves to more regularity in their lives , and to discover what was most rare and obscure in the nature of things , and for their good inclinations , and the happy progress they made , were called Philosophers . I shall tell you once for all , You must not be surprized if you meet in this description some slight and imperfect touches of the Ancient Philosophy , which do sometimes fall in naturally enough , and without any Violence or Constraint ; and indeed we had as good never have gone to Athens , if contenting our selves with an Inventory of the old pieces of Marble , we should have neglected that which made them so glorious whilst they were united and standing . Nor can I bring my self to believe that men of any Curiosity or Learning would ever have forgiven me , should I have passed by several things , because they were nor visible to my eye . Athens then having produced several Philosophers , it was at Pyraeum that one of them called Antisthenes , undertook to set up a particular Sect : For still as the most Learned among them established any new Hypothesis , those of his party and opinion asserted his Principles , and formed themselves into several Sects under different appellations . Antisthenes was the first of the Sect of the Cynicks . The word imports originally a Dog , from which their doctrine is not altogether abhorring , as being much less gentle and refined than the rest . It admits nothing of Natural Philosophy , Logick , nor Mathematicks ; it relies wholly upon Morality , and that the most austere and rigid in the World. To render a man wise , it requires that he begins with an extream contempt of himself , and to enure him to it , the Rules prescribed have in them more of insolence that instruction : For to decry their Vices , they reproach men with scandal , so that it is from their barking and snarling at every mans miscarriages that they are called Cynicks . The History of Crates and Hyparchus justifies that appellation by other reasons that I shall not mention in this place ; and it is possible it was given them likewise from the place called Cynosarges , which was a part of the Suburbs in Athens , where they settled themselves after they had quitted Pyraeum . All that is now to be seen of Pyraeum is only a fair Marble Statue of a Lion that gives the present name to that famous Port. It is placed gaping with his face towards the Sea , and as it were ready to leap into all the Vessels that come in there to anchor , Themistocles his Tomb was formerly not far from it . There is a little Caravanserael ( but not built as in Turkie ) which serves for the ●odging and entertainment of Passengers , and to lock up their goods ; and being therefore so inconsiderable , I will not trouble you with its description . That at Porto-lione is but an ill favoured kind of Hall , where , in case of Rain , they lay by what is unladen there , to be carried to Athens , or what is brought from thence to be shipp'd in that Port. All the settled and established Caravanseraels in Greece , are these which follow : Two at Thebes , one at Megara , one at Corinth , one at Arcadia , one at Napoli de Romania , one at Tripolissia or Dropolissia , two at Messitra , and one at Lacedaemon . Upon an eminence on the Shore stands an old Town , or Phanal , which the Athenian call Pyrgo , and the Italians Torre del foc● For the whole Town of Pyraeum two po●● Greeks are perpetually upon the Watch i● that Tower of Pyrgo , whose business it is t● give warning of the Corsairs , setting u● their Colours by day as soon they deser● any Ship at Sea , and in the night hanging ou● lights , to give alarm to the Country about besides which there is a fire made constantly every night upon the Platform . All along upon the Shore , at a competent distanc● there are several Pyrgo's for the same purpose , and two men always as Sentinels ▪ The Tower that makes the first discovery of a Man of War , throws down a lighted Fire-brand over the Wall to give notice to the rest ; and doing all of them the same the Signal is taken : The whole Country immediately in Arms , and the word passing from one to another to know where the Signal was first given , they repair thither with the greatest part of their strength . If nothing be discovered , the fire is suffered to go out in each Tower , and serves only to admonish the Corsairs that they are upon their Guard. But to elude their diligences , and frustrate their Signals , the Corsairs do frequently furl up their Sails , otherwise a Vessel of two hundred Tun will be seen by those Sentinels six or seven leagues . A larger Vessel is seen farther , and if two Ships be at Sea , they can discover one ano●her three or four leagues , unless they furle up their sails . At Pyraeum there are still to be seen great quantity of square stone of which the Walls were made that joyned it to the City , and upon the Road to Athens there were many more : They are generally Cubique , and those of the Foundation cramped together with iron , which was the Workmanship of the old and eminent Athenian Conon . But that which was most wonderfull in the Fortifications about Pyraeum , was , the Famous Wooden Tower that Sylla could not burn ; the Wood of which it was built having been prepared with a Composition of Alume that the Fire could not touch ; but though fire could not , it is now quite devoured by Time. Having walked for some space , we had Horses brought us from Athens , and mounting , had not rid far , before the Magnificent Temple of Minerva ( which stands in the Castle , and appears very statelily over the Walls ) presented it self as the first considerable object to our view . And here I cannot but acknowledge my own weakness , you may call it folly if you please : At the first sight of this Famous Town ( struck as it were with a sentiment of Veneration for those Miracles of Antiquity which were Recorded of it ) I started immediately , and was taken with an universal shivering all over my Body . Nor was I singular in my Commotion , we all of us stared , but could see nothing , our imaginations were too full of the Great Men which that City had produced . We fancied every step we made , that we met either Theseus , or Socrates , Alcibiades , or some other of those Reverend Persons : I could not contain my self , but cryed out , Adsunt Athenae , unde Humanitas , Doctrina , Religio , Fruges , Jura , Leges ortae , atque in omnes Terras distributae putantur , de quarum possessione proper pulchritudinem , etiam inter Deos certamen proditum est . Vrbi ( inquam ) quae vetustate eâ est , ut ipsa ex sese suos Cives genuisse dicatur : Authoritate autem tantâ , ut jam fractum prope & dehilitatum Graeciae Nomen , hujus Vrbis laude nitatur : You may remember it in Tully . The ruines of the Walls were called formerly the Long Rampires , of which there were two , the Northern by which we passed , and the Southern that ran along by the Sea to Pyraeum ; from thence to Munichia , and from Munichia to Phalerum , and so to the Walls of the Town ; so that the circumference of the Ancient City of Athens was compleatly two hundred Fur●ongs , which is about seven Leagues . And History mentions , that at convenient distances these Rampires were flanked by little Towers that were inhabited . The rode by which we passed along upon the Northern Rampire , was called formerly These●us his way ; of which Boccaneyra remembered us in the Verses he cited out of Propertius : Inde ubi Pyraei capient me littora portus , Scandam ego Thescae brachia longa viae . Accordingly there was a Temple consecra●ed to Theseus , and a little farther two Monuments , one of the Famous Poet Menander , the other of Euripides . About the midway betwixt Athens and Pyraeum there was a great Well set round very handsom●y with Olive Trees , which rendered it very pleasant : We took this Well for the Fountain , that was formerly by a certain Chappel Consecrated to Socrates ; for in those days Temples were Dedicated to Illustrious Men , as well as to the Gods. The descents and incursions of the Christian Corsaires is the cause that there are no Country-houses above a League from Porto-Lione ; but beyond that distance towards Athens , there are many little House set about very beautifully with Vines an● Olive Trees ; and behind them each has i● Garden full of Oranges , Citrons and Pom●granats ; they have plenty of Fountains an● Water-works , most of their Gardens bein● furnished with Engines to break and d●sperse the waters as it comes out of th● Pipes ; and the Engines are generall● wrought by a Horse . The Athenians a● present call a Country-house Spititon Ch●rion , and a Garden Perinoles . We could scarce see the Town before w● were in it , because it stands upon a littl● Eminence behind the Castle , which bein● just in our face , hindered the prospect there of . We alighted at a house taken up fo● us not far from a Church , which they ca● Agios Jannis , or the Church of St. John. And now being arrived at Athens , whic● was the main object of our Voyage , yo● would have just cause to be offende● should I neglect an opportunity that offen● it self so freely for your entertainment , an● not endeavour to give you the most faithfull and succinct description both of he● passed fortune , and present condition , seeing that what has been said hitherto , seem● but preliminary , and as it were to prepare ●he way for the knowledge of that . I do ●ot question , but in other Authors you may find a considerable part of what I have ●resented to you here : It would be strange ●n speaking of the place where Athens stood formerly , I should write of nothing but what was new of a Town so universally famous , and reputed the Mother of Arts , and ●he Theatre of Valour and Policy . The happy times in which this City flou●ished , were so fertile in wonders , and we ●ave had so few Ages since that have pro●uced such Eminent Men , that I do not doubt your excuse , if I give you a parti●ular specification of those memorable years ●hat remain still Sacred by so great and so glorious Events : But not to interrupt or ●ivert my Discourse , you will find in the Margin of these Memoires the number of Years reduced from the Epoche of the Olym●iads to our own ; by which you will dis●ern the time passed betwixt such an acci●ent and the time present . Of all the Ancient Cities in Greece , none ●as preserved its name with better success ●han this City of Athens . Our Geographers have thought good to alter it , and ●all it Setines : The Greek and Turkish Inhabitants , and the Neighbours about , call ●t Atine . I will not trouble you with the differe●● names it bore , before the Goddess Miner●● ( whom the Greeks called Athena ) gave ● her name in despite of the jealousie and o●● position of Neptune , who would have giv●● it his own . It is most certain , the Inhab●tants of old , called it by way of Excellen● Asti , or the City : And the Romans , ●● the same Spirit of Ostentation designed t●● same . The year of its Foundation was n●ver yet known . In the time of Cecrops ( t●● first of Her seventeen Kings ( wh● Reign began 3226. years since ) ● was but a Burrough , though h●noured with the Residence of its King , a● the Title of Metropolis in that Countre●● so that Athens was built above eight hu●dred years before the City of Rome . Theseus their Tenth King observing t●● People to be affected with Countrey liv●● and by the means , being dispersed up a●● down at a distance one from the other , a●● consequently exposed to the irruptious ● their Nighbours ; he incorporat●● the wealthiest of them into a Cit●● and by that Union gained to hi●self the Title of Founder of Athens . Th● City and Country was a long time G●verned by Kings , but with a limited A●thority ; nevertheless the people , in lo●● with their Liberty , abolished Monarchy , and in the place of their Kings , Created their Archontes , whose Power was almost equivalent with the power of the Doges or Dukes of Venice ; thirteen of them were perpetual , and succeeded one another , and seven had their Authority limited to Ten Years : After these , the Sovereign Power was put into the hands of Nine Magistrates , the first with the Title of Archonte , the second of King : Their Dignity lasted but a Year , yet these latter Archontes were so considerable , that the Athenians reckoned their Years , and distinguished their times from the Order of their Creation . In process of time Draco gave them those Famous Laws that were said to have been written in blood , by reason of their excessive rigour : But twenty four years after , they were abolished by Solon , who supplyed them with Laws much more gen●le and humane . The Laws of Solon Established a Popu●ar Government , till Pisistrates usurped the Soveraignty of Athens , and having left it ●o his Two Sons Hipparchus and Hippias , ●he first was slain by Harmodius and Aristogiton , with the assistance of a fair Athenian called Leena , to whom they had made great Courtship : This Leena being taken into Custody by the Tyrants Guards , and threatned the torture , unless she discovered her Accomplices , she chose rather to bite out her tongue , than suffer it to betray he● Gallants : And this Heroick action of Leena's hapned the same year that Lucretia was the cause that Tarqui● was banished out of Rome . Liberty being restored to the Athenian● three years after , by the flight of Hippia● , he called in the Persians who lost the Famous Battel of Marathon : Ten years after they returned , with intention to Sac● the City of Athens , but in a few months time they were defeated again in a Sea-fight at Salamis . After the Victory at Salamis , the Republick of Athens was in its highest elevation : It s greatest Captains , its greate● Philosophers , and its most Ingenious Artists were living in that time ; and neve● was any City so fertile in Illustrious Men Pericles was the person by whose Conduc● it arrived at that Grandeur . But the Lacedemonians growing jealou● of their greatness , made War upon the Athenians , and after several ingagements Lysander the Lacedemonian General , havin● rather surprized than vanquished them in ● Sea-fight , came afterwards to besiege th● City of Athens , and forcing it to surrender upon very hard Conditions , he established in it the thirty Tyrants , ●o famous in History . After four Years Servitude , Thrasibulus ● Citizen of that City , slew the ●hirty Tyrants , drove out the Lacedemonian Garrison , and by degrees ●onquered the Lacedemonians , partly by ●he Arms of his own Country-men , and ●artly by exciting the Thebans under the Command of Epaminondas . Not long after , this City was forced to ●ontend with the whole strength of a puissant League of the Inha●itants of Byzantium , Rhodes , and other Islands , who were not able to sup●ort the Tribute which was exacted in the dellespont , which Tribute was the foundati●n of its ruine . Afterwards she suffered much ●y Philip of Macedon , who gained ●he Battel of Cheronea against the Athenians and Beotians . Neither was Alexander the Great a bet●er friend to them at first , but he was kind ●o them afterwards ; however Alexander ●ied , and two years after his death , two ●f his Successors Antipater and Craterus ●btained a great Victory over them , and put ● Macedonian Garrison into Mynichia ; and to weaken them yet more , Antipater transported 22000 Athenians into Thracia . Cassander , another of Alexander's Successors usurped upon them , and invaded that Liberty which had been recovered b● Antigonus and Demetrius great Enemies t● Cassander ; after which the said Demetri●● besieged the said City , and took i● from Lacharis a Citizen , who ha● made himself Absolute , and his Setting up for himself , gave occasion for th● discovery of the valour of Olimpiador●● who by unparallel'd bravery and conduc● delivered the said Country from the Macedonians , defeating and dispersing abov● 12000. of them : Upon which the Magnanimity of these Inhabitants resuming i● ancient force , they made us Gauls sensibl● of the fury of their Arms ; for the Ath●nian Callipus defended the passage at The●mopilae against a numerous Arm● under the Command of two of on● Kings , Brennus and Acichorius , an● constrained them to try other ways , whic● proved afterwards their ruine . This was the last of the Athenian Tr●umphs ; afterwards the Gauls tired the● out , and exhausted their strength , so a● from that time they never attempted an●thing considerable in their own name , nor signalized themselves but by their Learning and Science : They fell again under the Dominion of the Macedonians , and could never free themselves but by the supplys of Aratus ; and yet it must be confessed , that ●hey were the chief cause of the ●uine of the Macedonian Monar●hy , by exciting the Romans , who Triumphed over Philip and Perseus . At length Aristion a Citizen of Athens , ●nvolved that Common-wealth in the great●st Calamity that ever befell it : The Hi●tory is visible at large in the Life ●f Sylla , who took the said City ●nd pillaged it . But Pyraeum was ●he more unfortunate of the two , for Athens was afterwards repaired , but Pyraeum was ●acked and never built since . After this Desolation , it had continued ● most deplorable solitude , had not the ●ame of its Philosophers invited thither ●ost of the Learned Men in the World , ●nd twenty years after , Pompey the Great called so meerly upon account of the Athe●ians ) discontinuing his pursuit of certain ●irats which he had undertaken to dis●erse , came to an anchor in Pyrae●m , visited the Philosopher at A●hens , and restored that City to the exercise of their Old Laws ; in acknowledgement of which , the Athenians espoused Pompey's Party ; followed him in h●● Civil Wars , and fought for him in the Battel of Pharsalia . Their Ingagement with Pompey woul● have been fatal to them , had not Caesa● been more generous than Sylla : He pa●doned them after his Victory , using this e●pression ( which is so memorable in History ▪ These present Athenians ought indeed to ● punished , but for the merit of their Anc●stors I will pardon them for once : For whic● they were not so grateful as they ough● joyning , afterwards with the Forces of Br●tus and Cassius against Augustus and Anth●ny : Nevertheless , though at th● Battel of Philippi Anthony remai●ed Conquerour , he treated the Athenians with much favour , vouchsafing ● the very height of his Fortune , not on●● to afford them his Company for some tim● but he caused himself to be Created A●chonte , and accommodated so exactly wi●● their Old Customers , that they called hi● frequently Philellen or Lover ● the Greeks ; and when he w●● beaten by Augustus at the Batt●● of Actium , the only request he made ● him , was , that he might be permitted ● live privately at Athens , but he was not able to obtain it ; after which Augustus continued to them their Ancient Laws , but he took from them certain Islands that Mark Anthony had given them . From that time they continued true to the Romans , only now and then some small Seditions happened of little importance : But of all Men , the Emperour Adrian was the greatest Lover of Athens ; that Prince being universally skilled both in their Learning and Arts , ( working with his own hands so exactly , that the best Workmen could not equal him ) was pleased to be the restorer of their Magnificent Buildings : He lived there as a private Citizen , aspired to the Dignity of Archonte , Executed that Office in the habit of an Athenian , and revived the Laws of Solon : With his Empire he left his Inclination to Athens to his Successor Antoninus Pius , by whom it was transmitted to Verus , both of which came and lived personally in Athens , and made themselves popular by their beneficence : But about thirty years after , the Emperour Severus came thither , and retrenched their Priviledges in revenge of some injury which he had received formerly when he was a Student there in a private condition . Three hundred and fifty years after Sylla had demolished them , the Emperour Valerian caused their Walls to be repaired , which hindered not , but a while after under the Reign of Claudian , successor to Galenus , it was sack'd by the Scythians ; and about One hundred forty years after that , under the Reign of Honorius , it was taken again by Alaricus at the instigation of Stilicon . And yet these Revolutions rendered it not to abject and contemptible , but that the Illustrious Families that were left , supplied the Eastern Empire with several Emperesses , as I shall observe hereafter . And those Emperors contracted no inconsiderable alliances ; for in process of time , when the Empire began to decline , two of its Emperors , Alexis and Andronicus , successively married Agnes , the Daughter of Lewis le Gross . These two Marriages , and the Misfortunes that attended them , having brought the French into those parts , Baldwin the Emperour brought his Army before Athens , but he raised his Siege , and was afterwards taken Prisoner by the Marquess Boniface . The French however had possession , and kept it till the Sicilian Vespers in the year 1282 , when the Catalonians and Aragonois beat them out ; but the Title of Duke of Athens remained to the French a long time . Our curious Dreslington remembred that ●t the Abbey of St. Denis , two Leagues ●rom Paris , upon a flat Tomb in the Chap●el , called Nostre Dame la Blanche , he had ●ead and transcribed this Epitaph , Cy gist Madame Jeanne d'Eu , jadis Cantesse d' E●tamps , & Duchesse d'Athens , Fille de tres ●oble homme Mons . Raoul , Comte d'Eu , & ●e Guines ; laquelle trepassa en la Cité de ●ienne le 6 de Juillet 1489. Here lies the ●ody of Madam Joan d'Eu , formerly Coun●ess of Estamps , and Dutchess of Athens , Daughter of the thrice Noble Monsieur Ra●ul , Earl of Eu , and Guines ; she died in ●he City of Sienna , the 6. of July 1489. ●nform your self of some Herald who this Dutchess of Athens was , and how that Title ●ame into her Family . From the dominion of the Spaniard , Athens passed to a Family ( originally of ●lorence ) called Acciaoli , which Family ●ad the Soveraignty both in Corinth and ●hebes . Francus or Francis the Eighth , Prince of that House , was at length con●trained in the year 1455 to yield it up to ●he Valour and Fortune of Mahomet the ●econd , the greatest Conquerour of all the Turks . So then it is now two hundred and thirteen years since it has been in the han● of the Mahumetans . It is true in the ye● 1464 Capello the Venetian General surpriz●● it , but not taking the Castle , he could n●● keep the Town . This then is one of t●● two hundred Capital Cities which the sa●● Mahomet took from the Christians ; 〈◊〉 did it submit till it had seen two Empin● and twelve Kingdoms subdued by 〈◊〉 Sword. And it was some kind of lus●● and reputation to the surrender of Athen● ● that it was not conquered by an ordina●● or inconsiderable Prince . It is remarkab●● in History that when the said Francus w●● expulsed , the chief Citizens of the To●● conspired to restore him ; which Cons●●racy was the cause that the Turks made the● Exemplary , and took from them the Sov●raignty of Thebes , which they had allow●● them till that time . Mahomet was na●●rally bloody and vindicative , neverthel●●● he treated Athens with great humanit●● professing one day as he was walking abo●● the Town , That his desire to be master ● it sprang not so much from his Natural a●bition , as from a delight he took in vie●ing the pleasantness of its scituation , a● the magnificence of its buildings ; and ● his great favours the Athenians are s●● mindful to this day . The better sort of t●● Inhabitants will never discourse with you upon any thing of Religion , but they will be sure to tell you of St. Paul , and St. Denis the Areopagite : They will show you none of their Antiquities , but they will tell you of Themistocles and Adrian ; nor can they mention their State-Affairs , but with a reverend Commemoration of Sultan Mahomet the Second . Before we come to their form of Government as it is established at present , it will not be improper in two words to give you an account how Christianity was first introduced into that City . Saint Paul the Apostle concerned himself , and took great pains in its conversion ; for coming out of Macedonia he came to Athens , and disputing against the Stoicks and Epicureans , he explained to them the new doctrine of the Resurrection , and shew'd that the God which he preached to them was the same Unknown God to whom their Altar was erected . Saint Dionysius , ( of the Famous Society of the Areopagites ) and Damaris were two of the most considerable who embraced Christianity ; the History of which is recorded in the 17. Chapter of the Acts of the Apostles , and when a stranger is at any time present at the Celebration of Mass , they will be sure instead of the Epistle for the day to read that Chapter , thinking thereby ( with a piou● kind of Vanity ) to enhaunce their reputation with the Stranger , according to the natural genius and affectation of that people . In Civil Affairs , when by the Judges a● Oath is to be administred to an Athenian , they open the New Testament at the 17th ▪ Chapter of the Acts , and laying the hand● of the Deponent upon that Leaf , they fancy it adds much to its Religious Obligation ▪ They look upon St. Dionysius as their firs● Bishop . In the infancy of Christianity it was famous by the Martyrdom of several persons , particularly in the year 125 there were many Athenians that suffered for the Truth , being animated by the Example of Publi●● their Bishop . The Emperour Adrian was then at Athens , and entered himself into the Priesthood of Ceres Eleusina ; but three years after , Quadratus succeeding Publius , stopped the course of the persecution by an excellent Discourse which he made to the said Emperour at that time returned to Athens , in order to the Consecration of a stately Temple to Jupiter Olympius , and repaired by his care . The Eloquence of Aristides the Philosopher ( who was a Christian ) confirmed the Doctrine of Quadratus , and he mollified Adrian very much by a learned Apology he exhibited in defence of Christianity , and dedicated to him . Some of the Calogers pretend to have the said Apology still in a Library in a Monasteryl at Medelli , some six miles from Athens . The Church at Athens produced several considerable men , and was erected into an Arch-Bishoprick depending upon the Pa●riarch of Constantinople . The Metropolitan of Athens has under him at this day seven Bishopricks , two in the Archipelago , Scyros and Andros ; one in the Island of Negro●ont called Carystehi , and four upon the Continent , Porthima , Diaulis , Heterotopia , ●nd la Valone . The Archbishoprick is va●ued at about thirteen or fourteen thousand Crowns a year , out of which a good part ●s paid constantly to the Sultan . The pre●ent Archbishop is a witty man , but no great Clerk , nor Friend to the Church of Rome : He is a Caloger , not far from Constantinople , ●or you must know , none but Calogers are ●dmitted to the Prelacy in Greece . It is not ●ong since he was advanced to that Digni●y ; his Predecessor is still living in Athens , ● man of an exemplary Life , but dispossessed by the violence of the Port , who choosing or removing the Patriarch of Constantinople at their pleasure , have a great influence● in the Election of Rejection of the Inferiour Prelates . For the most part , that Caloger who has most money in his pocket and parts with it most freely , is advance● to be Patriarch ; and to reimburse himself he is glad to make such his Bishops and Archbishops as give him the largest Contribution ; and they in their turns take the same measures with their inferiours , so tha● from one to another every Priest , Papas , Bishop , and Archbishop contributes to th● making of the Patriarch : And the bette● to satiate the avarice of the Turks , ther● are commonly resident at Athens fou● Grand Penitentiaries deputed by the Archbishop to hear Confessions , and to prescribe● certain Mulcts and Taxes to their penitent● according to the quality of the crime fro● which they are absolved . The former Archbishop is one of these four Penitentiaries and Director of a Monastery of Caloger● or Nuns of the Order of Saints Basil , o● which there are three Monasteries in Athens . There are in Athens a hundred and thre● Churches , of which four are Dedicated t● the Virgin Mary , and called Panagia , and three more Dedicated to Saint George . Th● Chiefest among them are Agios Dimitrios Agios Jannis , and Agios Chiriachis . But be●ides these one hundred and three within ●he Walls , there are double the number within a league about the Town : 'T is ●rue , the least Chappel passes with them for ● Church , and sometimes one single Papas ●upplys two or three of them . There is but ●ne Altar in each of them , and some there ●re in which Mass is not said above three ●r four times in a Year . The Rich Men of ●he Town have each of them Chappels at ●ome , and the great reason is , to keep their Wives and Daughters from being ga●ed upon in the streets , by which means it ●appens , that unless it be on great dayes , ●he Great Churches are quite unfrequent●d ; and to take off all pretence of Gos●ping , the Good-wives are not permitted ●o go to Church out of their own Parish . Their Zeal for Christianity is very extraor●inary , and though there are few of the ●thenians , or none that follow the Disci●line of our Church , yet one full third of ●he Town , admit the Procession of the Holy Ghost , the Supremacy of the Pope , ●nd the most essential points in Controver●e betwixt us and the Eastern Church . Fa●her Simon de Compeigne a Religious French ●apuchin , and one of the Missionaries at Athens , is sometimes admitted to hear the Confessions of the Arch-bishop ; the grea●est part of the Calogers of Medelli , and th● most considerable of the Laity in th● City ; as particularly the Paleologues , t●● Bininzelles , the Capitanakis , the Calch●●diles , and several others . Before the Old Archbishop was dispo●sessed by the Turks , he many times signifie● to our Capuchins at Athens , the great d●sire he had to see our differences compose● telling them expresly , that if he could see ● United with the Eastern Church , he cou●● chearfully resign to the person who at Rom● is made Arch-bishop of Athens , in partil● infidelium ; and he inquired very earnest after his Name and his Parts . Our Rom● Archbishop is called Carlo Vecchi ; he h●● four considerable Dignities in the Court ● Rome ; He is Secretary of the Congreg●tion of Bishops , a Member of the Sacr●● Office , Counsellour to the Penitentiar● and Secretary to the Congregation de pr●paganda fide : He is an Ancient Man , ● weak and declining , that the Physicians ● way of Regiment have prescribed him thr●● dishes of Chocolat a day . This Grave Archbishop , preferred to th● Title out of the Monastery at Medelli 〈◊〉 his Piety as well as learning , is much ple●sed when our Capuchins which are thei● ●o tell him that the City of Paris esteems ●t a singular honour that Saint Dionysius the Areopagite was their first Bishop . The good Old Man in a rapture of Joy , and with great pleasure to himself replyes , You must confess then that but for Athens , France ●ad possibly never had an Apostle . Some of our Learned Countrey-men , re●osing too stifly upon the Doctrine of our Times , have maintained , that the Conver●●on of the French was not ascribable to ●aint Dennis the Areopagite , and that he was not the first Preacher of the Gospel amongst us : However our Chronology may ●ustifie them ; the Universal tradition at Athens is against them , as I found by par●icular inquiry and disquisition . They are ●ll full of his Mission into , and his Martyr●om in France . It is observable , with what heat and eagerness the Common People of Athens will hear and discourse of 〈◊〉 ; for being naturally proud and passio●ate , they do exceedingly magnifie and ex●ggerate the humility of that Saint , in lea●ing so Noble and Illustrious a Diocess , to ●stablish himself in France . Not far from ●he Archbishops Palace there was a little Chappel Dedicated to Saint Dennis , which ●as been ruined by the fall of a Rock ; and ●he Athenians have frequently solicited our Missionaries to intercede to the King o● France to repair it , and revive the Glory o● their Nation among them . As to the number of its Inhabitants , I admired to have read and heard a thousan● times that Athens was a desart : Certainly the Travellers that have reported it , onl● passed thorow it , and that perhaps in a rain● day , when no body was in the streets , 〈◊〉 in the time of a Contagion , which send● them packing to their Countrey house● The Town consists of at least fifteen or si●teen thousand Inhabitants , of which ten o● twelve hundred are Turks . No Jews coul● ever be admitted , though there are many , o● them in the Neighbourhood , and partic●larly at Thebes and Negropont ; and to spea● truth , in the whole Turkish Empire , 〈◊〉 places but Athens and Trebizond have preserved the priviledge of excluding the Jew● though the Turkish Officers have attempte● several times to introduce them ; but to oppose them , the Christians underhand mad● friends to the Mahumetans of the said Citie● pretending that the Jews would ingro● the whole Trade , and ruine the rest of th● Inhabitants : Sometimes they have threatned the Jews which solicited their admittance , and the fear of being cudgelled prevailed with them to desist , for at Athen● they are in a great deal of danger . About 1986. Years since , Cassander the Macedonian having given the Administration of Affairs of this City to the Philosopher Demetrius of Phalerum , he found the City to consist of twenty one thousand Citizens , ten thousand Strangers setled in the Town , and four hundred thousand Slaves ; and this account was testified by Ctesicles : and it is to be observed , that by the word Citizen is intended the Masters of Families , which must needs suppose a great number of Servants and Dependants . At present , as formerly , the people of both Sexes are well shaped , and of an Excellent Contexture , which is the reason they ●ive to be very old : We attributed much of their vigour to their diet , and their use of Honey , which the Athenians use very frequently , being excellently good . Their Physicians account their Honey for the wholsomest of their Food : But the Common People ascribe much to the Situation of their Mountains which shelter them so commodiously , from the winds ; did they understand the virtue of their Simples which are there in great abundance and excellence , much would be attributed to them . The People have generally very strong and clear voices , and their Memories are admi●able . Philip of Macedon described them well ▪ when he compared them to the Images o● Mercury , which the Ancients put up in the●● Markets , and other publick places ; hi● expression was , that they were all mouth ● implying , that they were good at nothing ● but Oratory and Talk. It is a saying among those who are acquainted , with them ● that as there is not a Countrey in the worl● where Honey is more nourishing , nor Hem● lock more pernicious ; so there is not a Cit● where the People that are disposed to goo● are better ; nor where they apply themselves to ill , they are worse : Naturall● they are very selfish , and great dissembler● Their Women are Virtuous , Pious an● Chaste ; they never admit of Conversatio● with any Man , unless they be well assure● of his Virtue . The Common People hav● no kindness either for Us or the Italians ▪ the frequent injuries which they receiv● by the sudden descents of our Corsaires , ha● so incensed them against us , that in time o● War they hate us worse than the Turks ● Our Privatiers appear no sooner at Sea● but they are immediately in Arms , and the● the Turks themselves do not use a Fra●● with worse language than they ; so tha● our infesting them , makes us mortally odious : Nevertheless this has no influence upon the better sort , who are kind and civil to strangers that live with any kind of sobriety and reputation : Nothing is more generous than they ; they are the first that will salute a stranger , the first that will propose a friendship with him ; and in a word , no Man can be long a stranger in Athens ●hat has the least spark of Society : Some of our Merchants will tell you other things , ●ut then they conceal the great Reasons whereby they have provoked the Atheni●ns . When a man has rendered his friend●hip suspected at Paris , he shall find how ●nwilling people are to continue their cor●espondence . To be short , the Athenians ●o with admirable reputation maintain the Hospitality that was so honourable in their Ancestors . Their Language at Athens is the most ●ure and incorrupt of all the Cities in ●reece ; It is no where spoken or under●tood in its primitive purity but at Athens . ● T is true , when they speak any thing , they ●o it with a tone as if they sung , which has ●iven occasion to many people to say that ●hey spoke very ill ; but it is now a Pro●erb among the Greeks , That he who would ●peak well must have the elocution of A●hens , and the accent of Napoli , for Napoli ●e Romania is the Town in all Greece where the variation of the voice is most natural● and sweet . Most part of the Mahumetans in Athens speak nothing but Greek , fo● want of Commerce with the Turks abroad ▪ Of the Turkish Language they have seldo● more than seven or eight words in part o● their Creed , La hillah allah , Muhamet h● resoul ullah . When they meet a Turk o● another Country , they accost him by holding up their thumb in the air , and if he answers not in Greek , their Conversation i● at an end . Their habit is almost the same ▪ and scarce sufficient to distinguish them , fo● except their Turban , their habit is perfectly Greek ; and for the Turkish Women , they have no difference at all . There are three Mosquo's in Athens , one in the Castle , an● that was the Famous Temple of Minerva ▪ the other two in the City , and the Chief o● them was the magnificent Pantheon built by Adrian . As to the Form of their Government i● Athens , there are four Jurisdictions tha● manage the whole business of that City , o● which three are Executed by Turkish O●ficers , viz. the Sardar's , Disdar's and C●di's ; the other called the Vecchiados is i● the hands of the Christians . The Sarda● is Governour of the City , Commands th● Janizaries , and the Militia round abou● the Town : The Disdar is Governour of the Castle , and lodges in it , he has Command over the Janizaries in the City : The Cadi has his Residence in the City likewise , and is Judge both in Civil and Criminal Causes : The Vecchiados are four and twenty Seniors selected out of the best Christian Families to Regulate private Affairs betwixt Christian and Christian : The Vaywode or Farmer under Keslar-Agasi has some little Jurisdiction likewise , which he makes use of when the interest of the Farm requires it . I inquired of the most Venerable of the Vecchiados how it came to pass that their City being as populous as any in Greece , was not the residence of some Sangiac or Bey . They told me , it was an instance of the kindness which Mahomet II. had for Athens , because Officers of that Great Quality having alwayes great Trains and Retinues , must needs be a great charge to the Cities where they reside ; upon which consideration Mahomet would not permit that the little Officers , that make up the Family of the Sangiac's , and are indeed so many Leeches , sucking up the blood of the Inhabitants , and incessantly stretching the Jurisdiction of their Masters , to build up their own Fortunes , should have the pillaging of Athens , under pretence of advancing the dignity of their Lords . The Jurisdiction of the Vecchiados extends only to the Civil Affairs of the Christians , from whose Sentences there lies an appeal to the Cadi ; but to prevent those appeals , and conceal their differences from the Cadi , the Vecchiados do oftner act as Mediators than Judges , endeavouring in an amicable way to compose their controversies . The most considerable among the Vecchiados are the two Paleologi , Stamatis , and Jannis . The two Beninzellos , Jannis , and Demetrios . Janachis Coro●lis , Dimitrios Periolis , Leonardus Scliros , Dimitrios Macola , Panajotti Cavalleiris , Janis Verdogonis , Polimenos Zarlis , Stamatis Calchondile , and an excellent person called Capitanakis , a rich Merchant that speaks Italian very well , and has a great kindness for the Franks . He lived a long time in Zant , where he contracted a friendship with Taulignan the French Consul : He has a Son a very fine Gentleman . The Vecchiados are distinguished from the rest of the Inhabitants by a little Hat which they wear upon their heads : They hold their Offices for life , and when any of them die , his place is supplied by the suffrage of the Survivors , but with the approbation of the Cadi . They have no precise Court , or fixed place where they assemble ; sometimes they meet at the houses of the Paleologi ; sometimes with one , sometimes with another , but commonly at the houses of the ancientest and most considerable among them . Their Clerk or Secretary keeps the minutes and Register of all Causes or Contracts passing betwixt the Christians in Athens for Houses , Lands , or immoveable goods , ( for by their Articles with Mahomet they were continued in the possession of their Estates ) and their Bargains are all ratified by the Cadi . The Christians are not exempt from the duty upon Slaves , but for a small sum of money they enfranchise themselves , and for reasons which I shall tell you hereafter , even that is not collected with so much severity as in other places , this Tax having been remitted or neglected since 1666. Their Pole-money , or Tax by the Head , which they call Caratge , is at Athens two Crowns per annum , but the Women pay nothing . There is also another Tax called Avalis which the Grand Signior exacts for the security of the Seas , and this is levied upon their Chimnies , but several persons are exempt , and particularly all that are any ways serviceable in the Castle , as those who are employed about repairing the Walls ; conveying or securing the Waters ; scouring the Arms ; fitting the Carriages for the Cannon , and such things . When this Avalis is collecting , you shall see all the Priviledged Persons with their Patents and Letters of Exemption thronging about the Receiver : But you must know that all thei● Exemptions derive not from one Prince ; some were granted by Mahomet II. some by Solyman the Great ; and others by Am●rath ; however they will be sure to have them ratified , and that ratification is to be done at the Port by the Officers of the Divan . The great favours that they received from Mahomet ( a Prince severe enough to all other Christians ) made the Athenians uneasie under the domination of the Christian Princes , and I have been told they retained an aversion to them a long time : But of late they are come to themselves , and as weary of the Barbarity of the Turks , who have for some time used them worse tha● the rest of the Cities in Greece ; so as now they would willingly hearken to their ol● temptation of Liberty , if Christendom could espouse them , or propose any power that was likely to sustain them . The Malteses , and other Christian Privateers never make any descent , or take any Prizes upon their Coasts , but the Turks charge them with Intelligence and Combination , and attribute the whole mischief thereto . Upon these pretences , they immediately take the most wealthy of the Inhabitants into Custody , and force them to great Compositions before they are dismiss'd . There are great Factions among the Vecchiados , and at present even among the three Paleologi ( for besides the two that are Vecchiados , there is a third who has devoted himself to an Ecclesiastical life ) For some three or four years since , upon a difference about the division of Goods , they conceived so great a displeasure and animosity to one another , that they accused one another of Treason to the Grand Signior , and of holding Intelligence with the Venetian . But the Family of the Beninzellos being nearly allied to them , has interposed , and with the exhortations and admonitions of Father Simon , in some measure lessened their Pique . And at length that Star , which some Ages since was so propitious to this City , shines again upon it with the same rays and emanations of Kindness ; it being at this hour the happiest City in Greece , and the best protected . It s dependance is upon Keslar-Agasi , a black Eunuch that has the superintendency of the Odaliques , or Ladies of the Seraglio . He it is that has the sole and absolute Command of that secre● appartment , an Office which the Grand Signior intrusts to none but the Negro Eunuchs , and of them he chooses the most deformed , to give his Misses the less temptation . This Eunuchs kindness for Athens , may possibly respite its Calamities for some time , his Office being one of the most considerable in that Empire , conducting much of the Sultan's private Pleasures , and approaching him in the sweetest moments of his life , and most proper for obtaining a Boon . The present prosperity of Athens , may be ascribed to a young Virgin of this City , born in the Reign of Mahomet III. who died in the year 1604 , and was Great-Grandfather to Mahomet IV. the present Emperour of the Turks . This young Athenian Virgin was called Basilia ; but the excellence of her beauty having brought her into the Seraglio , the Turks gave her a new name , and called her Johahi . She missed narrowly of being made Hunkiar Asaki , or chief Sultaness ; but she was not altogether so happy as three other Virgins of the same City , which came to be Empresses of the East . Anno 421 Theodusius , the second Son of Arcadius , married Athenais the Daughter of Leontius the noble Philosopher of Athens , and changed her name from Athenais to Eudoxa , under both which she passed for the most learned , most prudent , and most beautiful Lady of her time . Anno 769 After her , Leo , Son of Constantine Copronymus married Irene of the same City , but neither so fair nor so well qualified as Athenais . Anno 808 Not long after Stauracus Son of Nicephorus ( who governed the Empire but few months ) married Theophan , a beautiful young Virgin of Athens likewise . This Basilia was of Christian Parents , and torn from them in her minority by the Turkish Officers that collected the Duties upon Children in those Parts , and had been informed of her excellent beauty . Her Mother , when they were carrying her away , weeping over her most bitterly , and clipping her in her Arms , conjured her to be always mindful of her Religion , and the calamities of her Country ; and the good Creature never forgot what her Mother so earnestly recommended . She was put into the Seraglio about the beginning of the Reign of Achmet , an effeminate and voluptuous Prince , and one , who of all the good qualities convenient for a Soldier , had none but a faculty in making of Arrows ; which rendered him so contemptible to his Janizaries , that in a Tumult , by way of insolence and decision , they told him he need not trouble himself to make his Arrows extraordinary , seeing he had not courage enough to try them upon the Christians . This being the most sensual Prince , and perhaps person of his time , it was not strange if in his Reig● the Seraglio was fuller of Beauties than ever : All the Beglerbegs or General Governours of Provinces ; all the Sangiac's o● particular Governours ( convinced it would relish him very well , and was the ready way to keep them in their places , if not to advance them ) sent to him daily the choisest Beauties they could find , adorned with rich Jewels , and furnished with Presents to be distributed among the Officers of the Seraglio and the Eunuchs , to engage them in their Interests , and to the protection o● those who had sent them . The Keslar-Agasi was always to have the best share , for it is as he pleases , that these Beauties are admitted or not to the Caresses of the Sultan . She that can make him her friend , ha● put her Affairs in a good way , and the Belgerbegs that sent her ; for the Keslar-Agasi knows well enough how and whe● to recommend them to his Master . But Basilia or Johahi came to the Seraglio without Jewels or any advantage but her own beauty ; Fortune had given her no better Patrons than the inferiour Officers at Athens who had taken her by force from her Parents , upon which score detesting their Persons , and abhorring their Violence she would not have taken their Presents , had they been in a condition to have given them . Nevertheless Custom obliged , and she ought to have done it ; whereupon at her entrance into the Seraglio one of the black Eunuchs whispered her in the Ear , and told her , You must by no means do as the last did that came in before you ; she made no Presents to the Officers , and so fell ●nto disgrace . She had not gone six steps , before another , an old Kadun or Governess ( each of which has five Damoisels under her Tuition ) being taken with the beauty of Johahi accosted her thus : What Basha is it that you desire to befriend ? Your Beauty is sufficient to attone for any Crime he shall commit ; Your Eyes carrying with them a protection for all his enormities . The custom of Flattery is universal , and ●he appetite of Lucre is as great , and disposes of all things as powerfully in the Seraglio as any where else . But 't is very strange the Eunuchs should be so covetous in these places , having their Fortunes settled for their lives , and no Children when they are dead to inherit the vast Treasures which they amass : This shows clearly that no reason is to be required of that general weakness in mankind , and that our Vices d● flow rather from the corruption of our Natures , than the necessities of Life . Johahi returned no answer to these Mercenaries , but in these words , which she repeated often in the Seraglio ; I should d● you no service if I should tell you the City where I was born , seeing it is too poor t● afford you any considerable advantage ; managing by little and little with great prudence what her Mother had so seriously recommended for the advantage of her Country . She was put immediately into the Custody of the Kadun Kiaia , which is the Principal Governess of all the Damoisell● and as she was carrying her into the Chuck chuck Oda or Chamber of new Comers , th● Sultan was by the way recreating himsel● with seven or eight of his Favourites : A● the news of her arrival , he put an end to his sports , all the preparation was laid by and a mortal jealousie seized upon the re●● of the Nymphs , who upon such occasion are , betwixt fear and curiosity , under strang● agitations ; and indeed where are the Rivals that would not tremble upon such an Alarm ? Those only who are rejected are pleased with such accidents , and do commonly pronounce the new Comers the handsomest they ever saw in despite to those for whom they had been refused . It was observed , the Sultan expressed no great impatience to see her , which gave some satisfaction to the Favourites : He only demanded whether she was as handsom as was reported , and immediately four of the Odaliques proffered their service to go see , and their report was already determined , at least the Sultan believed it so ; for being well acquainted with the humours of that Sex , he conceived they would readily speak against their minds , and being envious of one anothers greatness , commend that cunningly which perhaps they did not approve ; and condemn that which privately they admired . The Sultan understood well enough the power of their jealousie , and knew how to interpret their character of Johahi . But he had no occasion to make ●se of his skill ; the Messengers never came back , which was of great advantage to the Athenian , for he concluded they were unwilling to give him a description of the ●ranscendency of their Rival . Upon this presumption he ran to her himself ; he saw her , surveyed her , and liked her so well , he entertained himself two whole days with her , and for a long time made all his Courtship to her . The first thing she did was to enquire into , and consider all the Caballs , and Intrigues of the young Damoiselles , resolving to take her measures a quite contrary way . Being one day with the Sultan in a Kiosque or Pavillion that looked upon the Sea , she slily took opportunity to insinuate the ambition and Corruption of his favourites who sold all the Offices of the Empire by the mediation of his Eunuchs bartering for all publick Employments both of War and of Peace . The Sulta● being then in a good humour , had sent fo● five or six of his beloved Odaliques to ad● to his mirth : When they came near , Joh●● presented them to the Sultan in a smilin● but malitious way , adressing herself to hi● in this manner ( which sufficiently shows th● great veneration the Turks have for thei● Emperour ) God prolong your blessed day● The Holy Prophet preserve you ; See , Sir , 〈◊〉 troop of fair Ladies , ambitious to approac● the King and Soveraign both of the Lan● and the Sea : and then ( not staying for th● Sultan's answer ) she presented them to hi● one after another , adding with profound respect , The blessing of God go with you : The peace of the Holy Prophet make your days happy : This , Sire , is the Basha of Alepo , presenting one to him who but two days before had obtained that Bashaship for a person who had bribed her sufficiently . This , Sire , is the Bey of Mesitra , and this the Cadi of Trebazond , but he has but two days to be Cadi , for there is another offers a thousand Sequins more . For my part , Sir , ( the great Prophet bless your Reign ) I aspire to nothing but a place in your favour and affection ; and that I would purchase with the best and dearest of my blood : I leave the disposal of the great Offices to my Companions ; let them leave me the heart of my Soveraign and we shall be all contented . The Sultan smiled , and being alwayes ready to gratifie his Odaliques , he commanded Johahi to ask something of him , and in merriment reproached her by her Generosity . Johahi ( who to compass her designs , had proposed other Methods than what were practised by her Companions ) instead of snatching at the opportunity , replyed with great modesty to the Sultan ; The favour of our Prophet protect you , the Great God preserve you : Do not divert me , Your Majesty is not sensible of my avarice , my Petition is for your heart and affection ; in gaining that I should be more rich , and in requesting it I have been more selfish than all the rest of your slaves ▪ In this manner she dallied a long time , refusing the liberality of the Sultan , insomuch that he was forced to delude her , and caus● presents to be delivered underhand to the Eunuchs and Caduns in Johahi's name , a●● if they had been sent from her : Whe● they came to return their thanks , she wa● amazed , and for some time believed it be ● mockery , and done to reproach her for th● omission of a Custom that had been practised by every body else : But by degrees she perceived it was the generosity of her Gallant who had prevented her desires : Al● this did not transport her , or tempt her beyond her former Moderation : But at length he grew angry , and being impatient of expressing his Love to her by some consider able boon , he told her in some heat , that h● could be as proud as She , and that since Johahi despised his favours , he was resolve● to receive no more favours from her . Johahi saw now was her time , she repaire● immediately to the Keslar-Agasi , and desired him to go along with her to the Emperour , and being come into his presence , sh● addressed in this manner ; Behold , Sir , you● slave , I am now in need of your bounty , the great Prophet sanctifie your days , and showre down perpetual health and happiness upon Your Sacred head : I shall beg nothing of Your Majesty , but for those persons that are nearest Your most sublime Throne : Why should Your Majesties vast Bounty exhaust it self abroad , when in Your own Court You have such excellent objects ? My first Petition is for Your Majesties most sublime and incomparable self , that You would have more care of Your own health , and ease , and satisfaction . In my own particular , I should be too happy if Your Great Majesty would vouchsafe to Grant my Petition ; but most of all , if any pains or diligence of mine could procure , or , but in the least contribute to them . God make you victorious over your Enemies , and may our good Prophet pour down his blessing into your heart . There is not a person in Your Majesties vast Empire to whom I can pay any thing more justly ●han to this Keslar-Agasi before you : And I know nothing that I can ask for him so properly , as the Government of the City where I was born . Confer , I beseech you , upon a Slave that has been so faithfull to Your Sacred Majesty and Your Interests the Revenue of Athens , and permit him to sub●titute under him Kiais and such Officers as may not abuse Your Divine Authority , as other have done before them , of whose violences and extortions my miserable Parents have many times given me sad and deplorable Relations . Her request was immediately granted , yet not without regret in the Sultan , to see that she was not to have the profit of it her self , and that she had found out a way to draw a boon from him , without being obliged her self to call him Benefactor . By this means , the City of Athens became dependant upon the Keslar-Agasi , and the Revenue ever since accrued to the Successors in that Office. That Keslar-Agasi sent thither a Deputy or Farmer with express Order against Rapine and Extortion , which Order was not only executed then , but has been observed ever since . After she had laboured so happily for the benefit of her Countrey , Johahi proved with Child , and the Sultans Love ( which formerly was volatile ) being fixed in her , transported with hopes of a Son to inheri● his Empire , he was so forward as to settl● him a Family . He appointed him a Validi-Agasi , or Chief of the old Sultanness black Eunuchs , and an Eschatradeler-Agasi o● black Eunuch that has the Tuition of the Sultans Children ; but She died in labour and the Child , which was a Son , with her who had doubtless been concerned in the Empire , being born a full Year before the unfortunate Osman who succeeded Achmet . The Sultan was infinitely grieved for the loss of Johahi , and being jealous that some of his she-favourites had given her a lift , ( which is a practise too common among them ) he clapped two or three of the most suspected of them into the Old Seraglio , which is never done but when the Sultan dies , to whom they were Favourites . This Grant which was given by Achmet to the Keslar-Agasi , has been ever since continued to that Office ; but he who was most Generous , and from whom the City of Athens received the most honourable protection , was slain in that great and dangerous Sedition in Constantinople in March 1655. This is the Story that was told by a black Eunuch , that the Keslar-Agasi sent to Athens to take possession of his new Demeasnes : What honours would have been shown ? what Statues and Monuments erected to this Johahi by the City of Athens , had she been born in an Age when that poor Town was more flourishing and gratefull ? At present it is content to receive any benefit , without inquiring from what hand it comes . The good man Capitanakis , and a Caloger called Hyeros Monachos Damashinos ( who gave us this account ) seemed to be much concerned that the memory of this Johahi was almost lost in that City , though in other things ( perhaps less considerable ) not only events , but names , and other circumstances of above 3000. Years standing , are Recorded . The Revenue of this Demeasn is Farmed every year to him who gives most , and yet it seldom amounts to above 7 or 8000 Piasters ; and though he who Rents it , is but really a Farmer , yet he takes upon himself the quality of a Vaywode . The best part of the Revenue is the Customs ; he receives likewise the tenth of their Avelanade that grows about Athens . This Avelande is a kind of Akorn which they use for Dying , but it is most proper for Tanning of Leather . When this Vaywode is an austere man , and values himself , as he does who is at present in the place , all people fear him , and even the Cadi himself . To give you an instance . Father Lewis of Paris ( a zealous Capuchin now , though formerly a Lieutenant Colonel in the Regiment of Monsieur le Mareshal de la Motte Fauda●cour ) being Catechising one day in Athens , as an incouragement to a Boy in whom he found great hopes both of Memory and Judgment , he gave him an Agnus . As the Lad was going from him , a Turkish Boy snatched the Agnus away out of the hands of the Christian . Father Lewis being by , and apprehending Profanation , stopped the Turk , would have it again , and laying hold of his Vest , the Boy struggled , and his Vest was torn . Some Mahumetans standing by , and glad of the occasion , cried out a Christian is beating of a Turk , which with them is no less than Capital . A Tumult was immediately raised , the Cadi sent for , and immediately he gave Sentence against the poor Father , who submitted with all meekness . The Consul privately sent a dozen Loaves of Sugar to the Vaywode , and gave him an account of Proceedings : The Vaywood repaired to the place , reprehended the Cadi for his forwardness , and told him he would examine the business himself , and see it decided next morning : Immediately he discharged the Father out of Prison , and delivered him to the custody of the Consul ; at night he went himself to the houses of the Informers , and threatning to drub them , he made them recant , by which means he rescued the poor Capuchin in despight of the Cadi . This Father is at present very well , and lives in Napoli di Romania . Tuesday the 23. in the Morning , the first thing we did was to secure our selves of the protection of the Turkish Officers , to whom we presented several curiosities , and afterwards made them a Visit our●●lves : Bianchi would by no means be perswaded along with us for reasons that he kept to himself . For our Interpreter , we made choise of a Janizary , a haughty supercilious fellow , but one who knew every body , was well known himself , and spake Italian very well . In a word , our confidence in him was so great , that we refused Cajetas the English , and Baptista Jannis the French Dragoman , who were each of them proposed to us . The Sardar and the Cadi were not then in Athens ; some three or four days before the Sardar was gone to one of his Country Houses not far from Lepsina ; We therefore addressed our selves to the Disdar in the Castle , but more in curiosity than duty . When a Stranger or Greek himself desires to go into the Castle , he must have the consent of the Disdar , who sends his Ring for their safe Conduct ; and the Servant by whom his Ring is sent ( receiving a Present , either from Greek or Stranger ) showing his Ring , the Guards suffer him to pass , as we found by experience . In the time that Athens flourished , the Castle stood in the middle of the Town , and was called indifferently Glaucopion , Parthenon , Cecropia , Polis , and Acropolis , at present they call it Castro . It is situate upon a Mountain which the Ancients called Tritonion , because dedicated to the Goddess Minerva , called formerly Tritonia , or Tritogenia . As we were making our Tower , to get up to the Castle , we saw at the top of the Rock a Caloger or Nun of the Order of St. Basil , who kept the door of a much frequented Church that stands in the hollow of the said Rock : The Church is called Panagia , as being dedicated to the Virgin Mary , we being willing to bestow the first fruits of our curiosity upon it , went in , and found it very handsom , and richly adorned by the care of the Lady Governness . As soon as we were come forth of the Panagia , I perswaded our Companions to look about them more seriously , for it was thereabouts that the Grotto was , which among the Ancients was so Famous for the adventures betwixt Apollo and Creusa , Daughter of a King of Athens ; which Grotto was afterwards by the Athenians turned into a Temple , and dedicated to Apollo and Pan : And thanks to the hardness of the Rock , there is the most entire relique of all the Monuments remaining of the Old Athens ; and of this Grotto Euripides makes mention in two or three of his Tragedies . The hollow Rock that is near it was called Macrae Petrae , and it was admired by some of us ( more verst in Warlike Affairs than the rest ) that the Christian Corsaires , among their many Designs and Enterprizes upon the Turks , never thought of making use of that hole as of a Mine half made to their hands for blowing up the Castle , which in their judgment ten or twelve Barrels of Powder would easily and effectually have done : but this was only whispered among our selves , for the Turks are very shy in those points , and we had our Janizaries always at our heels . It is most certain , that about eighteen months since , a Greek of the Island of Candia who had lived long in Athens , came privately to Daniel Justiniani , Commissary and Treasurer-General for the Venetian Fleet , and proposed to him the pillaging of Athens , which being an open Town would have been no hard matter , and for the Castle , he would have taken that by the hole I mentioned before ; to effect this , the Candiot desired only eight hundred Men , and three or four Field-Pieces ( more for terrour than execution ) with ten barrels of Powder for springing the Mine . It is said , that at first Justiniani rejected his proposition , upon the score , that the Plague was in Athens , and he was fearful the Troops which he imployed in that Enterprize should bring the Sickness into the Venetian Fleet : But afterwards having considered it better , he Communicated with Francisco Cornaro , and Zorz Foscarini , two Noble Venetians that served in Candy , and all three of them resolved to have broke it to General Morosini , and the Proveditor Cornaro ; but in the very nick , the Venetians , having the better against the Turks in a Sea-fight upon the Coast of Candia , changed their minds and took other measures . For my own part , when I heard of this design , I concluded it rejected upon account of difficult execution , for the Guards in the Pyrgo or Watch-Tower in Porto-Lione , are too diligent to have been surprized , or to have failed giving timely Alarm to the Athenians , though dispersed up and down in the Country by reason of the Plague : Besides , the distance betwixt Athens and Porto-Lione ( where their descent must have been made ) would have given the Athenians leasure to have got into a body , and endangered the retreat of the Venetians , though they had come in a body of four thousand men ; and as to the blowing up the Castle by that hole in the Grotto , I thought it unpracticable in respect of the height of the Rock , which is of such a nature , that the breach cannot be favourable ; for let the Rock fall which way it will , it will fall into the Mine , and leave such heaps of rubbish as will require another Mine to remove , which is not to be done without more time than is consistent with those sudden attempts ; in a word , the Venetians durst not venture upon it . From the Panagia we passed on towards the Castle , and nothing could be more remarkable than the way by which we went : It was made of the ruines of the old Lyceum , the Famous School where Aristotle taught his Philosophy . It is now level , and very pleasant , but nothing to be seen of the old Palaestra where their Champions wrestled . Upon this flat it is , that in time of War , their new raised men are exercised , and prepared for the Field . Upon certain dayes in the year , the Athenians dine publickly upon it , where they have no want of water , being supplyed by the ruines of an old Aquaeduct . We fell into mighty Topographical disputes about the place where formerly stood that Famous Fountain called Panopis , whose waters have been since diverted . That Fountain was called also Diocharis , as being not far from a Gate of the City of that Name : There are some wooden Pipes to be seen , but nothing so big as has been mentioned by very credible Authors . The Trees which have been planted are so shady and delightful , that it is become the common walk of the Town , and is therefore called Peripatus , and questionless , it was the convenience of that , which invited Aristotle , gave him opportunity of teaching his Disciples as he was walking , and the name of Peripateticks to his Followers . To dilate upon their Doctrine would be superfluous , seeing it is at this day the great Theme of our Schools : I shall only say , that their great study is to understand the proprieties of Nature , and the force of second causes . Their Morality is pleasant , affirming , that to arrive at the Summum Bonum , and make our lives happy in this World , our Virtue must be beholding to the advantages and commodities of our Bodies : Corporis commodis compleri vitam beatam putant . As to passions , they are so far from eradicating them , that they believe them necessary . Theophrastus upon the flight of Aristotle taught in the same School , and had above two thousand Scholars . In this Lycaeum was also kept the Court of the Polemark , who is the third of the nine Archontes : The first of the Archontes by way of excellence was called Archonte ; the second , King of the Sacrifices ; the third Polemarque ; and the six others promiscuously by the name of The smothetes . This Tribunal in the Lycaeum was principally for strangers , for in time of War the Polemarque was Captain-General of all the Forces of that Common-wealth ; and in time of Peace , he was Judge in all Causes and Controversies betwixt Strangers and the Inhabitants of that Town . Not far from this Tribunal stood a Statue of Heros Lycus or Lycius the Son of Pandion ; which Statue represented a Wolf , and by every Tribunal in the City there was a Statue of the same Figure . About sixty yards from thence , upon a● Eminence , as Herodotus observes , are to be seen the ruines of the Areopagus , that Renowned and Majestick Court , whose Members are never mentioned in History , but with great Veneration for their transcendent Integrity and Justice . It was denominated Areopagus from Ares , a Name which the Greeks had given to Mars ; and the first Cause that was ever heard in it , was an Impeachment against him , for having slain one of the Sons of Neptune . Perhaps you may remember how those Pagans are reproached with it by Lactantius ; Vos homicidam Martem consecrastis ut Deum , quod tamen non fecissetis , si illum Areopagitae in Crucem sustulissent . But Lactantius prevaricated , and did not say all , for this Homicide was judged by twelve of their Gods before the Court of the Areopagitae was erected . Authors do not agree upon their number ; some will have them Thirty one , others Fifty one , and others above Five hundred , which makes it probable that in different times their number was different . All the rest of their Magistrates were annual , only the Areopagitae were for life . They held their Court always in the night , and in the dark , that they might dispatch their business with more intention and impartiality , when free from all objects that might work upon their affections , and dispose them unjustly either to severity or pity . But it was a general practice in all Courts for the Judges to sit in the open air in places uncovered : Their Salaries were all equal , and paid out of the Publick Money , besides a Fee of about Three half pence in every Cause . In Cicero's time the Romans entered themselves among these Areopagitae , and referred several knotty and ambiguous Causes to their decision . On the left hand of the Areopagus we passed by a Hill exactly of the height of the Castle , it is called Trajans Arch , from the ruines of a Triumphal Arch which Trajan caused to be erected upon it : but anciently it was called Museon , from Musaeus who used to recite his Verses there . The Cittadel which the Macedonians built there to bridle the Town ; and the brave exploit of Olympiadorus , who ( with twelve more ) beat out the Garrison , have made the place very memorable in History . Some of our Fellow Travellers having taken a fancy ( from the great noise that at this day the name of Adrian makes in that City ) would needs have it that that Arch was dedicated to him , but it is a mistake of you will believe common report , which calls that Hill at this hour Trajans Arch. There is but one avenue to the Castle and that not imbellished as of old with the famous Ante-Port called Propylaea , whose magnificent structure cost as many Talents as amounts of our money to Two Millions and six hundred Livers , which went very high in an age when the Salary of one of their Soveraign Judges was but 4 d. per diem . This Propylaea is at present nothing but rubbish , yet even that shows it to have been noble and great . On the side of it there is built a place for a double Court of Guard , but the building is very indifferent . Formerly the Keys of this Fort were deposited in the hands of some considerable man , who notwithstanding ( by a certain diffidence in the Government ) was to keep them but one day : and the person was chosen by lot . Afterwards it was intrusted with one of the Epistatae or Prytanes , of whom you shall hear more hereafter : Only this by the by : There were three sort of Animals that never were admitted into this Castle ; Dogs , because of their nastiness ; Goats , lest they should crop the branches of the sacred Olives ; and Crows , as being forbiden by Minerva . The reasons you shall have afterwards . Part of the Garrison was in Arms at the Gate , not so much in complement to us as to show the exactness of their Guards , though we had sent them a Present before . The whole Garrison consisted of about 300 men ; they would have them thought to be Janizaries , but they were but so many dead pays , and the Soldiers when called to their Arms , were born and bred in that Country , and far short of that Martial Order , of which more another time . In all the Turkish Territories there are such sort of people which take upon them that name to make them more formidable ; and all along upon the Frontiers where the Garrisons are inforced with Janizaries , and where there is a necessity of good Soldiers , these are looked upon as the refuse of their Militia , and called by way of contempt Muhanat or Poultrons , as I said before . In the Castle of Athens there are about three hundred of them ; they are upon the Guard only in the day time ; for as soon as it is night the Children of these Janizaries walking round within the Works , with continual shouts and cryes would perswade us of their vigilance and readiness , and especially upon the arrival of any strangers they are more clamourous than ordinary , to signifie the carefulness of their Parents , and strike us with greater terrour , and apprehension of them , whilst in truth the good men are either asleep in their beds , or abroad about their business , being most of them Mechanicks . That part of the Wall which they call Cimonion ( which is towards the South ) is covered over with a kind of Herb they call Parthenon or Matricaria like our Mother-wort , of which you may see more in Plutarch in his Life of Sylla . There is nothing so much of it on the other Wall called Pelasgicon : These Walls are old and decayed , but well supported by Buttresses in several places : The Greeks are obliged to keep them in repair , and their Priviledges are preserved to them for their pains . The Artillery belonging to the Castle , consists of twenty Pieces of Canon ; their Carriages are alwayes in very good Order , and it is part of the Christians Duty to keep them so : We made our Visit to the Disdar , who received us very civilly : He was a corpulent Man , well enough behaved , and had two Sons , one already in the Army in Candia , and the other preparing to go thither : The latter was a very handsom Youth , with a great skar upon his lip , that he had got with darting of a Javelin after the manner of the Turks , and being cured by a balsom which Father Simon gave him , he retained a great kindness for him , and did him many good Offices to his Father ; and his Father was so sensible of what he had done for his Son , that he never since comes that way , but he stops at his door , and salutes him in Greek with a Callimera Patera , or , Good Morrow Father , which is frequently followed with a Visit , and great expressions of favour . He treated us with Sherbet and Perfumes , and other kind of Civilities , which we had bespoke by our more solid Presents : His Ceremonies were not long , but they tired our whole Company , which the Disdar perceiving , understanding our Curiosity , and observing our eyes still sixt upon the Temple of Minerva , he commanded it should be opened , and Ordered the Kiaia to attend us . This Temple was built by Pericles ( in the place where the Old Temple was burnt by the Persians ) and all People and Creatures were imployed in the building of it , as you may see in Plutarch in his Life of Cato the Censor . Callicrates and Ictinus were the Chief Architects , and Ictinus ( being of the greater reputation of the two ) left us a description of it in a Book which he writ expresly , but it is lost ; and indeed the building it self is little better , for before this time nothing considerable would have been left of it , had not Adrian applyed his care , and repaired it ; to whom we are obliged for whatever is memorable or antique in Athens : I wish Posterity may find the Turks as well inclined to preserve them . After this Temple had for a long time been made use of in the worship of Minerva , the Christians turned it into a Church , And called it Santa Sophia : The Turks have turned it since into a Mosque . I hope one day to show you a draught that I took of it , by which you will at one glance discover so much beauty and magnificence , as will attone for the resolution I have taken of losing no more time in describing it thus , than barely in letting you know , that the Dorick Order is no where so excellent as there . That it is so Noble and Magnificent without , that the very Sea-men betake themselves to their Perspective-Glasses as far as they can see : That the Frontis-piece is most beautifull , and the Portico's ( which make the Wings ) with the Figures wherewith they are adorned , do add exceedingly to it . Upon this Frontispiece it was , that with great Joy and Veneration we read that Famous Inscription mentioned in Scripture , To the unknown God : It is not ingraven upon the door of a little Chappel , as some People would have it , who do not remember , that in the Mosco's there are neither Chappels nor Altars permitted to remain . Nevertheless you must not conceive that this was one of those Inscriptions which gave occasion to Saint Paul to discover to the Athenians that God of whom till then they had been ignorant . The Christians of the third Century had set them up in memory of the Ancient Inscriptions which Epimenides caused to be ingraven on the Altars in the time of Solon , as we are told by Diogenes Laertius ; and Pausanies gives us an account of the situation of those Altars in Phalerum , and in the Province of Elis. Among the Statues on the out-side of the Temple , the best work is a Marble Statue of a Lion. They have all of them been in great danger of pulling down by the scrupulosity of the Mahumetan Religion , which forbids the Image of any Animals , and upon that score several of them are maimed ; but at length some civiler than others , explained their Law with more favour to the Statues , and preserved those of them which are left ; and yet the kindness of the Officers could not have done it , had not Divine Providence Cooperated ; for at our entrance into the Mosco , the first thing our Janizary shew'd us , was , a Picture of the Virgin Mary , one of her Eyes being shot out with a Musket bullet by a Turk : The Story ( though not at all to their advantage ) is commemorated by the Turks as well as by the Christians ; the Turks aggravate it , and will tell you that the sacriledge was punished miraculously , the bullet rebounding upon the Malefactor with such violence that it struck out his brains ; but the Christians ( whose testimony is looked upon as more credible ) say only that he immediately lost the use of his right Arm , and continued lame ever after . The building within is not so rich as without , but it is as regular ; It is but of late years that it has been discernable , and that was by removing the trash wherewith it was full by reason of the Mahumetan Offerings : For it seems the place where this Temple stands has had in all Ages a Power to incourage and spur men on to Devotion , there being a certain kind of fatality that determines Men and Cities to peculiar Practices and Customs . The same Star that made Athens superstitious in times of Idolatry , that made them so fervently pious in times of Christianity , has made them as zealous under the Discipline of the Turks . 'T is not above fifteen years since this Temple of Minerva was one of the most Celebrated Mosquos in all Turkie ; to which Reputation it was advanced by the Dervices , which are a sort of Religious Turks ; and before the present Grand Visier ( Chief Minister in the Port ) provoked by their frauds and collusion in matters of Religion , had banished them out of Europe to Cogna where they were Originally Instituted , they made no reckoning even of their Dervices till they had been in Pilgrimage at the Mosque in Athens : These sort of Pilgrims had ( as they thought ) adorned the inside of this Temple with pieces of Taffaty and old Scarffs which they had hung up and displayed in every corner . There was not any of their Devotes ( for each Order has its Devotes ) but fastned to the Walls some little Banner or other of Red and Yellow Taffaty , and now and then of Yellow and Green , which are the Colours the Spahi or Turkish Cavalry carry in their hands upon any solemn Cavalcade . Others of them who had been in Foreign Parts , would hang up some bauble they had brought from thence ; and others that were Artificers , when they had made any thing extraordinary , would give some of them to their Mosque , and hang them up against the Wall : but this clutter of Offerings is almost quite laid aside . Standing so high as it did , it was strange , me thought , to find it so dark ; but by the wisdom of that excellent Architect Ictinus it was contrived with very few windows , that it might with more force and solidity resist the assaults of the winds , which for want of free passage do many times make a great noise in the Mosque ; and the Lamps , according to the Custom of the Turks , being very numerous , and hanging thick with gilt wires , the wind strikes them one against another , and makes a noise very unpleasing to the ear . It is only at Prayer time these Lamps are lighted , and indeed they give but little advantage to the common light of the Temple ; and yet we were no sooner entered , but we were suprized with a more than ordinary lustre , refracted from two bright polished Stones , placed close by one another in the main wall towards the bottom of the Mosque . They seemed to be two large Lamps that cast an extraordinary light , and as we advanced the light seemed to increase . Their Colour was not unlike the Carbuncle , and some body had had the curiosity to examine them ; for in one of them there is a little hole , made I suppose to that purpose . The jet Mirror or Looking-Glass in the Abbey of St. Denis is nothing so illustrious . Their Figure is rectangular , or a long square , each of them about three foot long , and a foot and a half broad . We having observed that the Turks which were with us looked upon them with more than usual respect , had not the confidence to touch or examine them any farther lest we should have been guilty of some great profanation . Besides the Kiaia interposed , and we were obliged to the more formality , the Iman of the Mosque making towards us himself , accompanied by the Talismans and his Kodgias , which are one to the other in the same subordination as the Parsons , and Vicars , and Curates among us . It was no little favour which the Disdar had done us in preparing the Iman , and disposing him to be civil to us , who of himself was a severe and rigid man , having been a Kodgias in Asia , where the Mahumetans are so scrupulous , that if a Christian be taken in any of their Mosques , he has no way to get off , but either by apostasie or death . These Officers advancing with great gravity towards us , attributed the cause of that light to a Miracle of their Prophet Mahomet ; for the Religion of the Turks runs much upon Miracles , and we thought neither safe , nor indeed civil to contest the truth of it . The Stones being transparent , one of these two things must of necessity produce that light ; either there must be two Lamps behind it , whose light is seen through , or else the two Lamps before it being placed exactly in the opposite Wall , dart their rays upon those Stones , which rays are reflected again as from a Looking-Glass . We could discern nothing behind that might be the cause , though on the sides of it , according to the Turkish Mode , there hung great numbers of Austriges Eggs ; several little Lamps without lights , and several little Globes of Crystal . Be it from which it will , it is probably designed to perpetuate the prodigy of that Golden Lamp which was placed there by Calimachus , the famous Sculptor , who was the first that invented the way of piercing Stone with an Augar . This Lamp was supplied with Oil but once a year , though it was to keep a constant light night and day before the Statue of Minerva : But the Ancients ( though otherwise sufficiently superstitious ) made no Miracle of it , supposing the duration of the light proceeded from an occult property in the nature of the Wick , which as they thought was made of a sort of incombustible Cotton ; nevertheless it burned not without smoke , for to carry it off , Calimachus had made a most admirable Pipe that conveyed it out at the top of the Temple . At present it is quite otherwise : But to settle our thoughts : with an eager and decisive tone , the Iman told us , that the first appearance of the Miracle of the two Lamps , was the very day that Sultan Mahomet II. turned that Temple into a Mosque . In a word , Mahomet II. is in Athens of so great reputation , that they think all things extraordinary that are done either by him or for him . Before these two Stones there stands a white Marble Chair formerly imployed by the Arch-Bishop , but now it is the place from whence the Iman dispences his Alchoran ; and in each side of the Chair , in the main Wall there are two Cupboards , covered with two Tables of Marble , in which the Christians used to put the Ornaments for their Altar . One of those Cupboards has not been opened since the Christians had possession of that Church ; and the other being rashly and audaciously opened not many years since by a Turk , there came forth so mischievous and pestilent an Air , as brought the Plague into the City , and was the occasion of a great Mortality . This is confessed by the Turks themselves , and since that time no body has had the courage to open them . When we came out of the Temple , at a distance of about fifty paces , we saw that famous Well that is recorded as one of the Wonders in Nature ; and even at this day the Athenians do esteem it one of the greatest Rarities of their Country . It s water is salt , and of the same colour with the Sea ; every time the South wind blows , it is mightily agitated , and makes a great noise in the bottom of the Well . Our Fellow-Travellers being impatiently and incessantly addicted to Natural disquisitions , had not found a fairer subject for their dissertations . Some were of opinion that from the Sea to the Well there was some secret and subterraneous Meatus , into which the wind forcing it self , made an ebullition , or else the Sea was driven thereby violently up to the Well , and supplied it with Salt waters . Others objected that the Spring must be there , and proceeding upon Hydraulick Principles , concluded that the Water rising naturally no higher than the level of its Fountain , could not be carried from the Sea so high as to the top of the Castle Hill , but would rather have disgorged into the Pits in the lower Town , where yet there is not the least semblance of any such thing . But all agreed that the noise proceeded from the force of the wind dispersing the vapours which the saltness of the Water exhaled , and that it was from the disposition of the Sea-banks , that only a South wind could come at it . In a Country proper for Experiment , we should have weighed it with Rain and Sea-water , examining how they would have incorporated , and which of the three had fallen down to the bottom : We should have tried whether Fresh-water Fish would have lived longer in it than Sea-Fish ; and causing both of them with a gentle fire to evaporate , have seen which had left the most Salt. Had it been Winter we should have tried which would have been first frozen . We should have likewise observed whether the bottom of the Well had been Chalky , Gravelly , Turfy , Rocky , or Sandy ; and perhaps have proceeded so far in our Curiosity , as to have taken some Criminal out of Prison , and causing him to drink it , have seen whether it would have put him into a Dysentery according to the propriety of the Sea-water . From the Castle Hill , we could discover all the Isles in the Gulf of Engia , without the help of our Perspectives , of which indeed we durst not make use to look about as we would have done , because we were very near a steep place that is to this day memorable for the precipitation of a King , and might well be a place of punishment to people that are over-curious . It was Egeus , Father of Theseus , who threw himself down headlong 2905 years since , having from the same place where we stood , descried a far off at Sea , the black Sails of that Ship which brought back from Creet his Son , whom he supposed the Minotaure had devoured ; Plutarch gives you a particular account . At a small distance upon the plain or flat of the Castle there is a small point of a Rock with nothing about it , which probably was the place where Silenus disposed of himself when he came along with Bacchus into this Castle : In the same Court there were formerly a hundred remarkable things to be seen , and as many more in the houses that are now set apart for the entertainment of the Janizaries : Upon the Plain there were several Altars dedicated to Friendship , Modesty , Integrity , Oblivion , Jupiter , Vulcan , Neptune and Minerva ; so that you may observe , that in old time their Altars were not alwayes within the Precincts of their Temples : Many were in the Field , and uncovered , which the Romans called Sub Dio. On that side where the Janizaries are lodged , nothing is to be seen but ruines , except the Arsenal built by Lycurgus the Son of Lycophron , which Arsenal appears still very Magnificent and Lofty , especially the great Tower , which is one of the first things that discovers the Castle to the Ships at their entrance into the Gulf of Engia ; and I have an Opinion it was upon that Tower that the Statue of Minerva was placed , which Statue was of such a vast bigness , that from the Promontory of Sunion , the casque and lance of it might easily be descried . Lycurgus built this Arsenal of Marble , and among the rest of the Ammunitions , there is constantly in readiness a provision of fifty thousand Arrows . Quite through the Janizaries Apartment there is nothing to be seen but ruines of houses , that in appearance have formerly been very Magnificent ; but the Greeks frequenting those places but seldom , we had not the help of Tradition to inform us where stood the Temples of Jupiter Tutelaris , Minerva the Protectress , Neptune , Aglaura , her Sister Pandrosa , and Victoria ; as likewise the Temple of Venus , which Phaedra caused to be Erected , to acquit her self of a Vow that she had made for her recovery from loving Hippolytus : These Famous Places , where of old so many Gods had Incense burned to them , are now defaced and profaned with the Tobacco of the Turks , at present the greatest smoaken in the world : I ventured among then rubbish of one of those ruined houses ; In my life time I never saw so many Choughs as I saw there , which Birds are more common in Athens now than formerly , but nothing so considerable . This great demolition considered , I do not think you can reasonably inquire after the Olive-Tree which sprang up so miraculously in the Castle when Minerva and Neptune had their great difference about the possession of that Country . Nor do I believe you will be more eager to inform your self of the Opisthodomos , or place of their publick Treasurie , in which there was always in deposito a thousand Talents of ready Money , kept with so much rigour for the extreamest dangers , that unless the City were in imminent hazard of pillage●ing , or fire , it was no less than death for any man to propose the medling with it . To be short , nor is there more to be seen of the apartment belonging to the She-Priest of Minerva , to whom it was forbidden to eat any coagulated Milk , but what was brought from the Island of Salamis . The House belonging to the two Virgins dedicated to the said Goddess , is under the same desolation ; and , which is more regretable , the admirable Statue of Diana done by Praxitiles ; the three Statues of Minerva by the inimitable Phidias ; the Statues of the Graces by Socrates ( which , by the way , would have justified the consistency of Mechanicism and Philosophy ) the rich Sculptures , and admirable Master-pieces of Daedalus , Leocaris , Cleetas , Endeus , and Calamis , are all lost and gone , as are the excellent paintings of Polignotus , Micon , Parrhasius and Timenet ; Pieces that were anciently the renowned Ornaments of the Castle of Athens , and doubtless would now be esteemed a rich Treasure , by all the Princes of Europe ; But time has devoured them , and they are become only only the vain Images of a Dream , subsisting like in the same and memory of their Authour . As we were going out of the Castle , we understood it was noon , by the preparation the Turks made to go to their Eoüyli , which is a prayer they make precisely at 10 a Clock , at which time an Officer on purpose , called Muczin , gets up on the top of the Mosque , and calls the Mahumetans to prayer , which is done by proclaiming in their language that God is great ; That there is no other God but he , and that it imports every man in time to look to his Salvation : and this is the whole language of their Clocks ( for in Turkie among the Mahumetans there are no other used ) and upon this score i● is , the Turks in Athens , when they woul● deride or upbraid the Greeks by their verbosity or babble , do tell them in mockery , Our Clocks ( if you had wit ) would teach you to speak better : And the Renegades think they hit the Nail on the head , when in roguery they boast that their Women wear better Breeches than our Men ; their Men are better shod than our Horses , and that their Clocks are better Oratours than our Advocates ; and the reason of all is , because their Women wear a sort of Stuff-Drawers ; their Men have a kind of Half-moon of Iron upon their Shoes ; and their Clocks deliver themselves with the aforesaid articulation . As we came from the Castle we left the ruines of the Lycaeum upon our left hand , and being dinner time , we went directly to our lodging , without any farther observation by the way . We found our Bianchi very busie in the Garden ; for having found the Sky clear , and all things convenient for his design , he had taken the opportunity , and was preparing for his Astronomical Observations ; We found he had made his Horizontal , and was fixing his Meridian with such ease , that we could not get him to dinner till he had done , telling us he was resolved by the benefit of the first fair night to take the height of the Pole in Athens , by the elevation of some fixed Stars which he had observed . After dinner we went abroad again to view that part of the Suburbs which lies Eastwardly of the Lycaeum , and Court of the Araeopagitae . We passed by the House of Monsieur Giraud , and afterwards by the House where the Jesuites lived before they were persecuted in Athens . About the Year 1641. Father Blezeau was eminent i● that Town for his zeal and abilities in opposing their Errors and Schism ; and ( not to mention any more of those Reverend Fathers called thither by the providence , and for the service of God ) the Fathers , Richard and Tessier , of late years have very gloriously asserted the Catholick Cause , till certain Athenian Priests jealous of the progress of their doctrine , excited the rascality against them , which being much encouraged by the artifice of some Protestant Merchants at that time in Athens , the common people besieg'd the poor Fathers , forc'd them out of the Town , and plundered their House : but they were better treated at Negropont , where , Father Richard has already brought over several Families from the Grecian Church , and preaches daily to the Bey's Gally-Slaves which are most of them French. About this time there hapned a remarkable passage to this poor Father Richard. The Basha Caterzo-Ogli Caraman Beglerbeg ▪ was by accident at Thebes , and upon his return to Candy , where he was Surveyor General of the Works under the Grand Visier , Father Richard went to make him a Visit , and took the opportunity to beg of him a protection against some desperate people that were exasperated against him by the Priests of Negropont ; and having obtained it as he desired , the Basha ( a gentile well-bred man ) among other discourse , asked him if it was true that the Monks in France never drank Wine but in their Mass , and seemed much satisfied with their temperance : But the good Father , with a pious confidence , becoming the zeal of the Primitive Church , replied , If we never drank Wine but at Mass , we should never drink any , for what is drank there is transubstantiated , and ceasing to be Wine , becomes the real blood of Christ the Son of God ; to which with a most Christian eagerness he added , that all opinion to the contrary was damnable . The throng of Turkish Officers that were about the Basha , would fain have rebuked the confidence of the Father ; But the Basha being more moderate than all of them , smiled and corrected them with this gentle answer : Do you not see he is a stranger , and can scarce speak the language of the Country where he is ? Let us be gone and take Candy , and when we come back he will be better able to explain himself : and had it not been for the generosity of the Basha , it was not unlikely but the poor Father might have been added to the number of the Martyrs . Not far from this house of the Jesuites , there is another where the Calogers of Medelli are lodged when they come to Athens ▪ The Sardar's Palace is at the end of the same Street , and his Seraglio over against his Palace ; all the Chelibi's of Athens have every one their Seraglio over against their Lodgings . On the right hand towards Panagia stands the Temple of Jupiter , a magnificent Structure , but there having been formerly five or six Dedicated to the same God , we could not inform our selves whether this were the Encyclios , the Epopete , or the Phratrios ; be it which it will , it is at present a Greek Church , and stands at the end of the street . And this let me tell you by the by , at this day the streets of Athens have no name but what they receive from some Church , Mosque , or Palace of some great Man. The Vecchiados Capitanakis ( next neighbour to the Capuchins ) knew not the name of the street where he lived , but called it my street : So that we were left to our selves to distinguish the streets of Vesta , the sacred Tripos , or Trivet , Polemion , and certain others which we found mentioned in History : Of all the old streets , there is none that retains its old name but the Ceramicus ; and even that is not like to keep it long , now frequently called the street of Bazar , which in probability in a short time will obtain against the other , and extinguish it . Unless it be this street , there is none of the rest either broad or streight , and the crookedness and oddness of their turnings at this day , answers very much to the description given of it long since by Dicaearchus the Geographer . Atheniensium urbs amaena & humanitatem prae se ferens ; at sicca tota , neque aquis bene instructa , neque rectè item in plateas secta ob vetustatem : Athens is a pleasant City , and pretends much to civility ; but it is dry and ill supplyed with waters ; nor are the streets so streight as they should be by reason of their antiquity . The Suburbs that lye Eastward of Lycaeum , are full of Gardens , which run along as far as the Ancient Village called Amazonion , from the great Battel fought there betwixt Theseus and the Amazons . The Athenians set up a Pillar in the place , and called it Amazonia , where also those Martial Women Erected a Temple , and called it Amazonian ; In the same place where stood the Gate of the Ancient City of Ithonia , which is now in the way to Phalerum . These Gardens lye likewise where formerly was that famous place for publick Assemblies , called Pnyx , in which there were frequent and great concourses , in which many a great Orator has recommended himself to them in an excellent harangue . About the Bench or Tribunal ( which stood in the middle of the Court ) there was a competent proportion of Ground called Periscaenisma , for that it was roped about to keep the Multitude off from incommoding the Judges : The Lithos was on the side of it , being a high Stone upon which the Publick Cryer stood , when he commanded silence : Not far from it there was a Sun-dial , and at one Corner a Temple Dedicated to the Muses : On the other side stood the House where Cimon dwelt and Elpinice , from whence we passed to another Quarter called Chrysa , and famous , as being the place where the Amazons incamped . We returned into the City by the Gate which is hard by the Covent of Capuchins , and to speak truth , we might enter as we pleased , for there was not above a pane or two of Wall standing together by the Gates of the City , and they pitifull things in respect of the Ancient Gates which were very magnificent ; one of them , it is true , is tolerably well , but of that hereafter : As we entred into the Town , on the right hand there stands a Monastery of Calogers , whose Church is Governed by a particular Caloger ; on the other side of the street is a Cloister of Capuchins ; the Cloister was shut , and leaving it on our left hand , we passed by the house of Vecchiados Capitanakis , where we saw one of his Sons , but not like to be so accomplished as his Father . Not far from it we were shown a little building , which the Athenians called To Phanari tou Diogenis , or Diogenes his Lanthorn : It is used at present for the reception of Water from one of their Fountains , the Ancients called it Analogaean , because it was built like a Pulpit ; but there being a Cupola like a Lanthorn on the top , the Common People called it Diogenes his Lanthorn , in allusion to a capricious humour of his , when to upbraid the effeminacy of those Times , he took a Lanthorn at Mid-day , and pretended he was looking for a Man. Julius Pollux speaking of this Analogaean , would perswade us it was Erected by Diogenes ; but I cannot think he intended the Philosopher , who was not Architect enough to repair his own Tub when broken by the Tumult ; for the Athenians were fain to supply him ; so that probably Plutarchs Opinion is the best , that it was set up by Diogenes , a Governour of the Macedonian Garrisons in Attica , who drove the Athenians out of Pyreum , Munichia , Salamis , and the Castle of Sunion . From thence we passed by the house of the French Consul , which stands at the corner of a Market-place , with the Dining-room jetting out into the street , and supported by Pillars : There is a fair Fountain in the Wall , and under the Fountain a large watering-place . There is a Story told very confidently at the Consuls house , but laught at by most of the Athenians : They perswaded us that every night the Fairies came into the Consuls Stables , dressed his Horses , gave them many and terrible blows with their whips , and when they had done , led them out to water to a Fountain that is within his Court. A little above the French Consuls House towards the street called the Bazar , we saw the second great Mosque of that City . It was anciently the Temple of Venus Vrania , built by Egeus , and repaired by Adrian . It was famous for the Statue of Venus done by Phidias : Vulcans Temple , called at present the Catholicon , ( and now the Archiepiscopal Church in Athens ) is not far from it ; and it was some pleasure to us to observe that their proximity agreed with what Pausanias said of it . From this Mosque , we went to see the House which is vulgarly called Anemoi ; it was formerly the Tower of Andronicus Cyrrhestes : Pausanias makes no mention of it , and Meursius confesses he knows not where it was ; but it is hard by a noted place , of which I shall speak largely elsewhere . This Tower is built of Marble , in an Octangular Figure , as Vitruvius has described , and upon every Angle Cyrrhestes caused the Figure of that wind which blew directly upon it , to be engraven : The work in Bas-relief is incomparable ; but the Triton of Brass is down , that stood on the Top of the Tower , and turning freely with the wind , with a stick which it held in his hand , shew'd the place where the wind was : Nevertheless there is something more than either Varro or Vetruvius have told us of ; and that is Eight Sun-dials , upon each of the flats of the Octogone one ; yet only seven of them are visible in the street , the eighth being inclosed in a Turks house that is built against one of the Angles . And here I fancy you most eagerly inquisitive whether the Athenians do reckon their hours now as they did formerly , and as they reckon them in Italy , that is , by the number of four and twenty , from Sun-rise one day , till Sun-set the next : To satisfie your Curiosity , that is not now the Custom . The Common People regulate their intervals by the Cryes which the Muczins make from the top of their Mosques , at Day-break , at Noon , and at six a clock at Night : But the better sort have watches from Venice , or hour-glasses which are very common among them . The House of Vecchiados Panajotti Cavalieri is right over against the House of the winds ; and the famous place I hinted before is a little higher toward the Vicus Ceramicus , and called Poecile , or Porticus varia . Of all the Porticoes that adorn this great City , this was the most considerable , and to distinguish it from the rest , it was called by way of Excellence the Portico ; Anciently it was called Pisianactios . Whilst Athens was in its Glory , the Painters of those Times had represented with great accuracie upon the Walls of this Portico , the memorable Exploits of all the Great Captains of this Common-wealth ; and which is remembred both by the Greek and Latin Authors , the Famous Artist Polignotus drew one of his Master-pieces there , and gave it freely to the City . But if you will take the Judgement of the great Scholars , they will tell you the thing that made this Portico so Eminent , was the Philosopher Zeno , who built a School there for the Stoicks , a Sect that was Instituted by him , and called at first Zenonians , till this Stoa or Portico was Erected that changed their Appellation : And here it was that sustained by the Testimony of Antiquity , I convinced our Camerades of the errour of Common Tradition , that at this day calls the School of Zeno a certain place without the Town , betwixt the Temple of Theseus and the Academy upon the way to Thebes at the foot of the Mountain of St. George . The Doctrine of the Stoicks tends principally to the subduction of our Passions , by which they affirm it possible to take off the sting and affliction of grief and sorrow , &c. and make them unpainful . But impugning the frailties and softness of our Inclinations , with Maximes too rigid and severe , they are reproached by the other Sects for Dogmatizing against Truth , and the Experience of Sense : Doctrina non moderata , nec mitis , sed paulo asperior , & durior quàm aut veritas , aut Natura patiatur : maintaining that a Wise Man is not susceptible of Adversity , and that Calamities are necessary for the exercise and tryal of our Vertue , which without agitation would languish and relax . They place in themselves the Principle of the highest Felicity , affirming , that the Soveraign Good has no need of Forreign Acquisition , if it had , it would be subject to Fortune ; so that the greatest disgrace or dishonour that could befall another man , ought not to affect , or make the least impression upon a Stoick , because all that is good or necessary is within him , as Temperance , Prudence , Justice , &c. They do confess themselves subject to , and sensible of misfortunes ; but then they master and subdue them , and though their humanity will not suffer them to be totally exempt , yet they are impregnable to them ; adding that their Doctrine , though charged with austerity and rigour , is worthy and suitable to the courage and magnanimity of a Man ; whereas the soft and tender maximes of other Sects are only proper for the delicacy of a Woman : In short , they affirm , that the difference betwixt the Stoicks , and the other Sects of Philosophers is as great as the difference betwixt Man and Woman , the one being Created for Command , and the other for Obedience . The Learned dissertations of these Philosophers , though they denominated this Portico , Porticus sapiens , were not sufficient to secure it from the publick diversions , for Apuleus observes , that hither the Athenians did usually come to behold their Vaulters , and persons of Activity ; and at this day these sort of Spectacles are exhibited to the People in their Festivals of the Bayram . This Portico put an end to our walk that way , for you cannot imagine that we would spend much time in contemplating places that were utterly void , though formerly there had been many Curiosities in them , nor trouble our selves with the examination of every particular relique . It would have been the ready way to have drawn all the rascality after us , who followed us up and down , and perhaps would not have let us escape with a bare derision : To prevent it , rather than to make one tedious walk of it , we chose to come again two or three times , that they might not think us ridiculous and affected . The next night being fair and serene , we imployed a good part of it in Astronomical Observation . We took the height of three several Stars as they were to pass the Meridian , ( viz. ) of Azimech , Zubana Gienoubi , and Antares : We rectified their Longitude by the Table of their peculiar Motions , and found their Declinations by their Spherical Triangles ; Zubana Gienoubi being my Province I will give you my Calculation : Its Longitude answers to 10 Degrees and 30 Minutes of Scorpio : Its Latitude is Septentrional , and is but of 26 Minutes : Its declination Meridional is of 14 Degrees and 37 Minutes , and its Meridional Elevation 37 Degrees and 42 Minutes , and adding that height to its Declination , there remained 52 Degrees and 19 Minutes for the Elevation of the Equator , whose Complement ( that is to say , 37 Degrees and 41 Minutes ) is the height of the Pole at Athens . The rest of their Observations accommodated with mine , and we found all the three Stars without the limits of refraction ; and the Moon not rising till midnight , her light gave us no impediment . The exact time of my Observation was about 25 Minutes after Midnight , which agreed not only with our watches , but with the Observations the rest made the following days about the position of the Sun , which was in 4 degrees and 16 minutes of Taurus , and its right ascension in 31 degrees and 59 minutes ; and my Star being 218 degrees 15 minutes , determined the moment of my observation . The 24. of April in the morning we went to hear Mass of Father Simon de Compiegne , at the Covent of Capucins who were then Missionaries at Athens . Father Barnaby , whose Residence is at Napoli de Romania , is President of that fraternity : Father Simon lived in a small house of Marble , though little , yet very good building : neither Meursius nor any other ancient Authour has taken notice of it , though it be called by the Common people indifferently , To Phanari tou Demosthenis , and To Palati tou Demosthenis , sometimes Demosthenes his Lanthorn , and sometimes his Palace . The Athenians never mention him , but they speak of ( what Plutarch reports in his History ) the thickness of his Tongue that hindered the grace and liberty of his pronunciation ; and as they tell us , there it was that he made use of his pebbles to help his imperfection . The workmanship of this Phanari is excellent . This House Father Simon bought of a Greek for a hundred and fifty Crowns , but a while after the Greek would have put a trick upon him , pretending that he had since been informed he could not by the custom of Athens put a Stranger into the possession of any Antiquity , lest the Stranger should demolish it : The Father replied , as he might very well , That he was no Stranger , and in effect he had been admitted Citizen of Athens , and got Letters of Infranchisment to obviate such kind of Cavils ; however the business was brought to a hearing before the Vecchiados , who condemned the poor Capuchin , but appealing to the Cadi , it was confirmed to him upon condition he should not impair it , and that he should show it to any man who had the curiosity to see it , which shows the esteem they still have of their antiquities in that Town : and the poor Father was so unwilling to disoblige them , and so careful to gain their good will by any reasonable compliance , that he removed his Altar and Oratory into a low Parlour within the said Phanari . But this ceremony and respect that he shewed to the Athenians did not hinder , but that at first he was treated with the same insolence that had been used to the Jesuites there ; for the Capuchin being settled in his house just about the time that the Grand Visier had banished the Dervices out of all the Turkish Cities in Europe , the Boys in Athens , who had been used to those Dervices ( supposing the poor Capuchin had been one of them in disguise , that would not submit to the Grand Visiers order ) flocked about him in the Streets , and crying out a Dervice , a Dervice , had like to have stoned him to death . But the graver sort of Athenians , nay the Turks themselves , and particularly the Disdar , rescu'd him from their outrage , which he gratified abundantly by his care of their Children afterwards ; teaching them to Read , Write , cast Accompt , and speak Italian ; and which was much more , he taught them their Catechism according to the Council of Trent , being translated into the vulgar Greek , and Printed at Venice : and though in it the Errors of the Greek Church were formally condemned , their Parents regarded it not , nor took notice of the dissuasion of their Archbishop who was highly against it . Nay they proceeded so far to the contrary , that according to their custom the Apostles Creed , as received among us , was put in measure and set to their Musick , in so much that we heard them sing it frequently in the Streets ; and this may very well be attributed to the diligence and insinuation of the said Father , who by his Piety , and a certain affability peculiar to that Order , wrought himself so happily into their affections , that both Turks and Christians invited him frequently to their Houses , with so great an opinion of the integrity of his life , that during his Visits they never sent away either their Wive● or Daughters , which was a confidence they never used either to the Calogers or Imans ▪ Nay farther , twice a year he was certain to be visited by the chief Kaduns and Mahumetan Ladies both of the City and Castle and that was during their pastimes and liberties at the Feasts of their Bayrams ; a● which time transported with their freedom they took delight in those little extravagancies , and would come to his House t● play their innocent tricks , and he coul● not quit himself of them till he had opene● his Garden door , and sacrificed his whol● stock of Flowers to their service ; He kep● Sherbett always ready for their Slaves , an● the Ladies were so kind as many times 〈◊〉 drink of it themselves ; for which boun● of his they did him a hundred good Offic● to their Husbands and Parents , protecti●● him against the Enemies of his Religio● for which , in merriment they would t● him , they would make another inroad into his Garden . In the Chapel of this Monastery there was a Pew and a Stool to kneel upon for the Consul Chastagner ; Monsieur Giraud the English Consul had only a little Seat in a Corner . Father Simon passed only for the French Consul's Chaplain , that thereby he might oblige the King's Ministers , and ingage them to favour the progress of his Mission ; and he succeeded so well , that it is there only that Chastagner appears in his character , and shows himself with all the Formalities of his Consulship ; and this he did effectually some three or four years since to a Deputy from Genoa , who came to Athens to settle a Consul there . This Deputy was of the House of Doria ( a great Family as you know ) and looked upon himself as a Prince : The truth is , he had a very good train , which followed always in good order when he went abroad to see the antiquities of the Town , and that kind of Ostentation goes a great way with the populacy . He gave and received Visits from all the Turkish Officers : Chastagner in his turn went to pay his respects , and expecting that Doria would have given him the Fauteüil , he was nettled to find that honour omitted to a Consul of France : Chastagner resented it highly , and watched an opportunity of returning his kindness , with which in a short time the Genois themselves presented him . Doria sent one morning very early to Father Simon , to desire he would be ready to say Mass to him precisely at Eight a Clock . The Father , as Chaplain to the French Consul , was obliged to acquaint Chastagner , and to know whether he would be present . Chastagner understanding it was at the request of Doria , thought that a fit time to be revenged , and sent word he would be there , and Father Simon should attend him . The Clock struck Twelve and no Chastagner ; during which time the Genois continued in very great impatience : at length in a formal procession they perceived six Janizaries marching a-breast with their Truncheons in their hands ; the Interpreter Baptista Jannis followed them , after whom came ten or twelve French Merchants , and some of the Vecchiados who were friends to our Consul ; last of all with his train or Attendants came the Consul himself in a Red Sattin Gown lined with a rich Fur , and entering sternly ( without saluting of any body ) into his Pew that was covered with Tapestry wrought with the Arms of France , he fell to his Prayers . Monsieur Giraud was so civil as to give Doria his Pew ; when Mass was done , Father Simon according to his usual custom made a little harangue ; at that time it hapned to be in Italian , and addressing himself first to his own Consul , he gave him the Title of Illustrissimo Signore , and paid him some little Complement , after which he faced about , and addressed himself very emphatically to the Prince . Chastagner pretended to be surprized , and that he had neither seen Doria nor his Equipage ; and turning short , saluted him , and offered him place in his Pew , but without any precedence ; the Prince refused his offer , and went out of the Church before the last Gospel was done . Mass being done we went home , only one thing I forget to tell you , that the Lutherans that were present made no scruple of staying out Mass ▪ After dinner we resolved to go● e●the● ●cademy , I mean the old Academy that gave name of Academicks to the Schools all Europe over , that lab●ured to propagate and compleat all Su●●●ces and Arts. Our Fellow-Travellers expected nothing but rubbish in their walk , declaring publickly it was not to be thought that that Incomparable Fountain of Science should remain clear and pellucid to this day , considering the dulness and muddiness of the Genius of the Modern Greeks . I who had conversed them abroad , had not found any thing of that stupidity in them : The Capuchins who took great pains in the Instruction of their Children , are witnesses not only of their vivacity and quickness , but that they are more than ordinarily docile , and disposed to any kind of Learning : For as they told me , a young Athenian Boy that in two dayes time gets not by heart twenty pages of his Catechism , believes himself so negligent or sottish , that he has not the confidence to appear again to his Tutor without great Mediation . ATHENS Ancient and Modern : WITH A DESCRIPTION OF THE PRESENT STATE OF THE EMPIRE OF THE TURKS . BOOK III. OUR Janizary went out with us in the afternoon , but in the morning he was absent , in order as he pretended , to provide entertainment for us after dinner : I told you before , he was an ingenious person , and having found our humours to be inquisitive and generous , he studied all ways of gratifying them . We left the Bazar on the left hand , and cross'd the Ceramick Street without any remarks ; and being got as far as the Temple of Theseus , which is in the way to the Academy , and one of the last houses in the Town , our Janizary proposed to us to go see a Greek of his acquaintance who was a Didascalos or School-Master : We desired no better , and were upon thorns till we were with him , but alas , how were we disappointed , ( who expected nothing but the sublime notions of Plato , Zeno , and Aristotle , ) when the Janizary told us he was a mechanick ; how were we surprized to consider a man of that quality should succeed in the place of such excellent persons . We found about thirty young Lads sitting upon Benches , and their Master at the head of them teaching them to read ; he rose up when we came in , and received us very civilly , in which , to give them their due , that Nation is not sparing . The Janizary desired him to go on with his Boys , and give us the liberty of seeing his method , which was pretty , and much beyond ours ; the Master causing the whole Classis to read at a time without confusion , every Scholar being obliged to attention , and to mind what his next neighbour reads : They had each of them the same Authour in their hand , and for example , if he had thirty Scholars , he chose out some continued Discourse , and gave them but thirty words to read ; the first Boy reading the first word , the second Boy the second word , the third Boy the third , and so on . If they read roundly and right , he gave them thirty words more . But if any of the Boys were out or imperfect , he was corrected by the next who was always very exact in observing him , and he his neighbour , till the whole number of words were read : So that the thirty Scholars lying all of them at catch , and ready to take advantage of any defect in their neighbour , stimulated by an ambition of being thought the best Scholar , every one's Lesson was the Lesson of all ; and happy was he that could say it the best . To obviate any of the Scholars in eluding that order by preparing himself for any single word ; their places were changed , and he who at one reading was in the first place , was removed a good distance in the next . Thus one Lesson was enough for a whole Form how numerous soever , and which was very convenient for the Master , the Boys were not constrained to come to him one after another , for every one was a Master to his Neighbour . Supposing we had a mind to be at liberty , our Janizary was so civil as to leave us to our selves , pretending some little affairs of his own , but with promise to return in a very short time . The Civility of the Didascalos was so great , that he would not suffer us to refuse a Collation that he offered ; and to accommodate us the better , he conveyed us into his Chamber , from whence he had carefully removed his Wife to a Neighbours house , by an effect of the Grecian Jealousie : But he sent for two Calogers of his acquaintance to entertain us in her stead . They were reputed two of the gravest men of the Town , and our Landlord had enlarged much upon their parts . Our first dish was Botargo of Larta , which is a kind of Sausage made up with eggs and the belly of a Fish they call Cephale , and we a Pollard ; it is an excellent Ragoust , and nothing in the world better to drink withall . The best Botargo is made at Larta , which is the Ancient Town of Ambracia , betwixt Epirm and Acarnania ; after our Botargo , came is a dish of incomparable dry'd Neats Tongues brought from Constantinople , than which no place affords better . Our minds were fixt upon our Antiquities , and we were impatient to be gone , nevertheless in complaisance we were glad to feed , or at least to pretend to it . The Calogers eat nothing , for you must know , they never eat flesh : The Wine was better than ordinary , for generally in Athens it is blackish and not fine , which is their own fault , for their Wine would be good enough , if when they press their Grapes they did not put in so much water : the best Wine in these Parts is the Wine of Lepanthe . On the South-side of the House where we were , and as it were just under the window , there was a little inclosed Vineyard pitifully managed , though the stocks of the Vines were thick and well grown enough to have invited the Didascalos to more care , and better cultivation ; and when he told us the Wine that we drank came out of such another Vineyard , I could not forbear rebuking his negligence in not improving of that : One of the Calogers , and he that the Didascalos had recommended ( for the greater Conjurer of the two ) replyed in Italian , which he spake very well , that the ground indeed was very good , and would produce very good Grapes , but they might hang 10000 Years before the Wine would be fit to drink . We stared one upon another to hear him talk at that rate , and thought it odd and ridiculous , especially coming from an Athenian , and one who had been magnified so highly . We proceeded afterwards to their Bread , and found fault it was no better made : The Didascalos told us the fault was in their Mills , and that at present the River Illisus was parted into so many cuts , that there was not water enough to grind the Corn. And why then , said Dreslington , do you not make use of Wind-Mills ? Why , said the Caloger very gravely , we caused five or six to be set up in a large Vale hard by , and scarce any of them was serviceable : That Answer me thought cleared the point , and quite took away my Opinion of those Greeks ; we could not forbear blurting to one another , and declaiming in Latin against the ignorance of the present Greeks : They in the mean time kept their countenance , and looked very demurely ; we thought them affected , and that by their looks they had been highly pleased at what they had said , and we laughed at them the more : The School-Master smiled , and said not a word . Bu● Beraldi who had said nothing till then , advised us not to be too rash in our Judgements , for in his Opinion the Greeks did but droll upon us , and by their trifling answers rebuke our impertinent chat , and desire to rid themselves of the importunity of our questions ; adding that no rallery was more biting than that nonsencical way of theirs , where by cross and improper answers they seemed to correct , and many times confound such People as pretended to be so subtil . But Beraldi might say what he would , he could not perswade us but they were as very Coxcombs as they appeared ; and to mend the matter , there was so much starchedness and formality in their look , that the wit of Man could not have bettered our impression ; especially when giving them an account of an Ancient Athenian called Alcibiades , who sacked Constantinople , called formerly Bizantium , they stood gaping upon me as men in a maze : Men I named several of their most illustrious Ancestors , as Olympiodorus , Thrasibulus Harmodius and Aristogiton , they stopped me in my cariere , and asked whether they were Christians ; whether they were of kin to Constantine ; and whether in their dayes they were as considerable as their Dimitrios Beninzellos Stamatis Paleologuos , or Polimenos Zarles ? still opposing some of their Vecohiados to every one of those brave men as I named them . At length the Caloger pulling off his mask , and justifying what Beraldi had conjectured , I cannot but laugh ( said he with some eagerness ) at your Alcibiades and your Olympiodorus ; He that should attribute our present subsistence to their bravery , or to the Wisdom of Photion , would be more remarkable for his folly , than Socrates was formerly for his Sagacity . There is not a stranger comes to Athens , but observing the present condition of the Country , he deplores our misfortunes , with grea● expressions of sorrow , to see so Famous a City in the clutches of Barbarians , and i● a Pious Zeal cryes out against that ambition which animates your Princes , and prompts them rather to tear one another i● pieces , than to confederate as well for thei● own interest , as ours against the tyranny o● the Turks . This is the common sentimen● and discourse of all Travellers that com● hither . But what does it signifie ? 't is bu● impertinent talk , and I do not question bu● five or six hundred years hence they wil● complain to as little purpose of the ill management of the Liberty and Power amon● you , and the remedy will be as near . Th● half-witted people in your Country laug● at our ignorance , but I beseech you wit● what Justice ? were we not ready in O● Times to communicate with you , and impart our Notions in all the Excellent Sciences . When you had forgot what you received from Plato , and Aristotle , and Epicurus , we were so kind in the middle of the fourteenth Century , to supply you again with the Learning of Argyropolis , Theodore Gaza , George Gemisto , and Antonicus : You look as you were surprized , but for whom do you take us Athenians ? To silence you quite , I reserve for the last the poor but incomparable Caloger Bessarion , who by one of your Popes was made a Cardinal , and sent Legate into France 1472. to accommodate the difference betwixt Lewis XI . and Charles the last Duke of Burgundy . You pretend to be the greatest Historians in the world , and yet possibly you may be ignorant that the Pope did that at the Funeral of Bessarion , which was never done before at the Funeral of any Cardinal , for he in person attended his Corps to the Grave , contrary to the constant practice of that Court. I will not swear , that with your skill in the Latin Gibbrish you ever heard this Story that I shall tell you ; George Gemisto was a Platonist , George of Trapezund a Peripatetick : these two Sects were formely in great emulation , and perhaps are none of the best friends at this day ; George of Trapezund writ against the Doctrine of Plato , and I question not but some of his works falling into your hands has been the occasion that Aristotle has been of late received into your Schools . Come to Constantinople , come to Sinopi a Famous Port in the Black Sea , and you will find Professors in Philosophy that will discourse with you seven years together . My modesty will not suffer me to speak of those in Athens ; In those three there are publick Schools for the teaching of those Notions ; but in the rest of the Towns of Greece , we have no Science but what teaches us contempt of this world , and preparation for the next . Our Philosophy teaches us to detest Sin , and our Theology to Pray . The great Apostle , to whom this Town is indebted for its Conversion , insinuates nothing else , and that is the main drift and scope of his Epistles to us . For you , I beseech you , what fruit is there of your Artificial Eloquence ? of the confused tumult in your Schools ? of the vain and obstinate contests of your Doctors , your chimerical dissertations upon what you call Criticisms , and we nothing but fooleries ? Your great questions in Philosophy are rather subtilties and curiosities , than matters of use ; in a word , meer Metaphysical reflections beyond , if not contrary to natural experience , serving rather to perplex and obumbrate , than to illustrate the Truth , whilst the niceties of your Great Colledge are either the cause or support of New Heresies , extravagant Sects , monstrous Opinions , Confederacies , Civil Wars , and corruption in matters of Justïce . Since Plato was rejected , and Aristotle received into your Schools , how many of your Learned Doctors have there been , who would make the Peripatetical Doctrine the foundation of their Christianity , declining the Authority of the Scripture , and not only doubting , but questioning and disputing Pro and Con with great ardency whether there be a God or not ? You will ask perhaps , have not we the same difference and respect for these Philosophers ? No , they were our own Countrey-men , and taught publickly here ; yet when Reason dissents , we are the first in the Lists against them . And having spoken thus freely of our exercises in Peace , let us now see how we can match you in enterprizes of War : We will not look back to former Ages , in that Oase you have little to pretend ; but it is not above 464 years since we defeated one of your most Considerable Fleets at the Mouth of the Strymon , which is a River in Macedonia . Your Arms had never any advantage over the Greeks , but at the taking of Constantinople , and even that was done by fraud and impiety ; for the Army which your Allies assembled ( about 15 years after the defeat at Strymon ) for the recovery of the Holy Land , being arrived at Zara in Dalmatia , instead of reducing Palestine as was declared , changed their design , and undertook the Enterprize against Constantinople , and thereby betraying and falsifying the Oath of the Croisade , and perverting the Charity of those Christians who had so bountifully supplied them , they Marched unexpectedly against Constantinople , surprized it contrary to their publick Profession , and the pious hopes and intention of the good people of your Nations ; afterwards you set up two or three Emperours , of which one paid his head to expiate his Usurpation . When first our Empire became sensible of the Ottoman Arms , had you consulted either your own Interest or Religion , you would have joined your Forces with ours , and endeavoured to have stopped in the source an evil that must needs draw such ill consequences upon your selves . If it should ever happen ( which God forbid ) that Sicily should fall under the same Calamities as are at present upon Candia , what would become of poor Italy , Where there is not one strong Town , and scarce a man worthy to be the posterity of those ancient Heroes ? and yet you do not object it to them that they are at this day as ill furnished with Caesar's and Scipio's , as we are with Alexander's and Olympiodorus's . The Genois , with immortal scandal to the name or Christianity about 130 years since supplied Amurath with the Ships that transported the first Turkish Troops into Christendom : Your Cabals and your Factions have frustrated us even of our own proper succours and relief ; and when we thought to have found our only protector and deliverer in the person of Scanderbeg , Pope Pius II. though he saw him balancing the fortune of the Turks , interrupted his progress , and would not be quiet till he had taken him from that Holy War , and brought him into Italy to concern himself in those quarrels among the Christians , and drive the French from Naples . Not long after , what unworthy reception , what infamous treatment did you give to Prince Zizim , eldest Son to Mahomet II. and Protector of our City ? The unhappy Gentleman finding himself rejected by a seditious part of the Army , threw himself into your Arms , and opened a way thereby for your Forces to have marched into the very bowels of Turkie . In the judgment of all Christendom it was fault enough to have slipped so fair an opportunity , but you added treachery to your negligence , and suffered , I may say , caused that poor Prince to be poisoned . I shall be so favourable to your honour as not to name the Persons , but this I shall say , you disappointed us Greeks , who expected his company , and looked upon him as the only hopes of our re-establishment , and you ruined his friends in his own Country : This may be forgotten among you , but the Ottoman Princes will remember it ; and after the miscarriage of Zizim not one of them will be tempted for refuge to you , let what persecution soever arrive . So then as to us , it is opportunity , not courage that is wanting . Our Nation is not degenerated ; are not they our Soldiers which at this day fight your Armies , and over-run your Provinces ? you cannot deny but the Ottoman Force consists principally of persons forced or stolen from us , and that the name of Janizary does not absolve them from being Greeks , or divest them of their natural vigour . Tell me I pray you , what Country-man is the Grand Signior himself , since so many Generations ●● the Ottoman Family has been established in Constantinople ; and their heirs have proceeded out of the loins of young Grecian Damoisels that have been presented to the Seraglio : The Hunkiar Asaki , the Emperours chief Sultaness , at this day the only delight of Mahomet IV , and Mother of the young Prince that is like to succeed him , is a Grecian born , and was taken at the sacking of Retimo in Candia about Twenty one years since . To be short , we are become ●ne people , and it is with us and them as it was formerly with the Saxons and English ; the Goths and the Spaniards ; the Gauls and the French ; and if it would please God to permit the doctrine of Christianity to be received at the Port , and the diversity of Religion betwixt us to be abolished , ( which makes our moral differences irreconcileable ) we might say , and say true , That the Emperour of the Greeks is at this day greater and more puissant than the Emperours of Constantinople have been formerly . Moreover , I do believe you are unacquainted with a thing that our Historians do justifie , and that is , that the Ottoman Family are now Emperours of the East more by descent and lineal succession than Conquest ; for you must know the present Princes of Turkie do derive from the Emperours of Greece by a younger Son of the Imperial Family , who upon some discontent retired to the Sultans of Iconium , where he married , and gave original to the House of the Ottomans : So that the Greeks may assume some part of the honour which has been gained upon you by the Valour and the Conduct of the Turks . I call it their Valour and Conduct with the more confidence , because I cannot think that you believe all those Victories and Advantages obtained by your Enemies , are but the effects of their good Fortune : Certainly Fortune is never so constant , but where there is Judgment and Conduct to fix it ; but so much the worse for you if their prudence has no part in their prosperity . Are you not ashamed that the stupidity of the Turks should be so much too har● for your great managery and cunning ? You will say God has a mind to chastise you for your exorbitancies ; if it be so and you know it , why do you not correct them , and let your Conversion make your attonement ? No no , you will scarce ever be wiser , and we shall have still reason to demand where is that prodigious wisdom , and transcendant address , that in your own thoughts advances you so infinitely above the Greeks ? The Caloger having ended , the School-master took the word out of his mouth , and addressing to us , told us that he had forgot to speak of the great Valour of the Grecian Janizaries ; If we would make a noise , and boast of our Courage , we need no more than name three of our Heroes , whose undauntedness has been so conspicuous in Canadia , I mean , Zimbi , Balzama , and Calamo : The two first had each of them the Command of a Regiment , the third of a Company ; all three serving the Venetian with so much gallantry and prudence , that they were equally venerable both to the Turks and the Christians : If your curiosity carries you into that Island , you will hear more of them . Imagine if you can how strangely we were astonished at this apology of the Greeks , and how we stared one upon another to hear so many good things from a man we had concluded little better than a Statue . He humbled our Virtuosi , and brought us unanimously to ask his pardon for the unjust conception we had made of his parts . I have mentioned him to you before , his name was Hyeros Monachos Damaskinos ; Bertaldi was very well pleased that he had judged of him so right : and Damaskinos confessed with such kind of harangues he had confounded several Travellers , and corrected their vanity . Had he many such Rencounters , the honour of that Country would quickly be vindicated ; but most of the Franks will not give him their attention , and if at any time they happen into discourse , and he presses them with any thing , they are immediately in a huff ; he is a Sot , and a Fool , and there 's an end of the Conference . We presently found that our officious Janizary had got him thither on purpose to entertain us to our minds . Damaskinos spake the Greek , Turkish , Latin and Italian Languages very well ; he had a smattering likewise of French , having gained some words by his conversation with Father Simon , with whom he had great intimacy . Damaskinos was one of the three Professors of Divinity and Philosophy who read publickly in Athens , though to us in modesty he concealed it . The Archbishop and Demetrios Beninzellos were the other two . The Doctrine of the Archbishop being proscribed , his Lessons are only exhortations to Christianity ; both of them read in their own Houses , without any Salary but what comes from the good will of the Scholars : Damaskinos and Beninzellos have not nevertheless been so successful in Scholastick points , and criticisms of Divinity , as in matters of Philosophy ; yet there is no stranger comes near them at expounding the Greek Fathers . At length we took our leaves both of our Didascalos and Calogers , we parted with great friendship , and followed our Janizary who was returned , and tempted us away . He conducted us towards the Dypilon , which was the only Gate remaining of the old City . There were three Gates one within another , great , well built , curiously wrought , and deserved to be reckoned among the best Antiquities in Athens . Thucydides , Polybius , Plutarch , and all the ancient Historians have mentioned them , but none of them more particularly than Titus Livius , who speaking of Philip King of Macedon has this passage , Ad Dypilon accessit , porta ea velut in ore Vrbis posita , major aliquantò , patentiorque quam caeterae , & intra eam , extraque latae sunt viae . He advanced to the Dypilon , a Gate that stands in the very mouth of the City , bigger something , and broader than the rest , and the Streets large both withinside and without . Lucian tells us that there stood formerly the Tomb of the Physician Toxaris , who among the Athenians was in great veneration , and often invoked by them upon any violent Feaver ; and he ventures upon the very place , assuring us it stood on the left hand as we passed to the Academy , not far from the Temple of Theseus . There is to be seen likewise the Tomb of Anthemocritus the Herald at Arms , whom the Megarians killed against the Law of Nations : This Gate had also been called Thryasia , Thracia , and Ceromica . On the right hand from Dypilon , we had the sight of a very ancient and fine Wall , with the ruines of an admirable Gate : It had formerly been the Gymnasium of Ptolemy King of Egypt , in which , among many Brass Statues , there was one of Mercury in Stone , an excellent piece that passed fo● one of the best in the whole Town . You must know that by the word Gymnasion , the Athenians understood equally such places as were designed for the Exercises of the Body and the Mind ; and accordingly here it was that for some time Cicero studied under Antiochus the Philosopher . If there be any place in all Athens where Travellers are more than ordinarily critical it is here : some will have these to be the ruines of the Temple of Jupiter Olympus ● which indeed was quite at the other end o● the Town ; others will have them to hav● been the Palace of Themistocles ; but that is but fancy , and uncertain , for there are several Palaces bestowed upon him in Athens , and particularly an old relique near the Temple of Neptune , of which more by and by . The most probable opinion is , that Themistocles his Palace was on the South-side of Ptolemy's Gymnasion , not far from Melita , as Plutarch has described it . On the side of these ruines there are the remains of an old Brick Wall , of which Vitruvius speaks , and looks , as he says , upon the Mount Hymettus , not far from the Mountain of Saint George . On the right hand towards the Academy , and near the Dypilon stood the ancient Temple of Theseus , remarkable for the Feasts which the Ancients solemnized in honour of that Heroe , and for the distribution of Meal which was made among the poor of that Town : But the greatest testimony of their veneration for their Founder , was their making an inviolable Asylum of his Temple , in which all Slaves were received and protected from the ill usage of their Masters : It was built after the Battel of Marathon , Consecrated during the Victories of Cimon , and repaired ( as the rest ) by the orders of Adrian , since when , by the bounty of certain certain Christian Princes , it has been turned into a Church ; at present it is much decayed , and not likely to be repaired but by the misfortune of making it a Mosque : Hitherto the Turks have attempted it , but in vain ; The Christians is have been so happy as to keep it , by their Interest with the Keslar Agasi . The Turks in madness pretend they would not be troubled with it , and that being without the Town it would not be convenient for them . Because it stood without the City , some of our company would not believe it was the same that is so much mentioned in ancient History , in respect that Plutarch has placed it in the middle of Athens ; not considering how much this City is altered since Plutarch's time , nor observing the vast demolishment before the Temple towards the Field , and perhaps not knowing that all that side was inhabited and divided into three great Wards , called Kyera Siki , The Academy , and the Colonos Hippios : and it could not be more exactly in the midst of Athens , than by lying betwixt the present Town , and that place which they call now Asti , or the City . But besides these convictions , the very Walls and Building are sufficient to perswade us of its antiquity . About this Temple there were formerly four considerable places ; a Court or Tribunal , a Prison , the Horcomosion ( where the Peace was concluded betwixt Theseus and the Amazons ) and the Theatre of Regilla , which Theatre was built by Herodes Atticus , because the Theatre of Bacchus , though great and magnificent , was not sufficient to receive the vast multitude of spectators that came to see their publick representations . At this day , hard by the said Temple , is to be seen a large and fair Marble Statue of a Lyon couching upon the ground , and as it were asleep ; to distinguish it from that upon the Coast , and that other in the Castle , who are both Rampant , and as it were in a rage : Upon which score the poor people of Athens , as they pass by this Lyon , they whisper it in the Ear , and tell it , You may sleep on , Lyon of Athens , and take your rest , for the Lyon upon the Coast and the Lyon in the Castle watch for you . Some four or five years since , this Lyon was the occasion of a Prodigy in that City . The Wife of one of the Janizaries of the Castle passing many times with her Husband by this Lyon , rested herself one day before it , and fixing her eyes firmly upon it , she hapned to conceive at the same time , by which means her imagination impregnated with that Object , and re-inforced every day by the sight of the Lyon in the Castle , it had so strong an impression upon her , that at the end of Nine months she was brought to bed of a Monster with a head like a Lyon , which the Disdar caused to be stifled . Having passed by that , we went on by the Gardens in the ruines of the Faubourg of the Academy or the Ceramique , for it is called equally by both names . Before I came to Athens , I have admired a hundred times that among so many Learned men as have Translated and Commented upon Pausanias , and particularly Amazeus and Meursius , never any of them gave us a Plain of that City : But my astonishment ceased when I was in this Faubourg , and considered the ground , and I could not but acknowledge they had done well . I shall give you but one instance . Pausanians having given us a description of the Areopagus , jumps immediately to the Academy , and who would not upon probable conjecture believe but two places that are so jumbled together in his Writings , should be next neighbours in their scituation ? and yet there is no more communication nor proximity betwixt them than there is betwixt the Cours de la Reyne and the Place Royalle in Paris , or St. Peter's Church and the Porte Latine in Rome , for there is a compleat League betwixt them , and to pass from one to the other you must cross the whole City . The Academy was called so for being the Inheritance of one Academus , who lived in the time when Theseus , after his infidelity to Ariana , stole away Hellen , and carried her from Lacedaemon : Castor and Pollux her two Brethren , pursued with what Forces they could make , and came as far as Athens ; but not being able to discover where she was , they were privately advertized by this Academus , which was a kindness so well taken by the Lacedemonians , that in all the Wars and depredations committed by the Lacedemonians afterwards upon the Athenians , their Armies still spared the Academy , for Academus his sake . Sylla was not altogether so civil , for he sacrificed to the Laws of War , and the liberty of the Soldier all those brave Groves and pleasant Walks which Cimon had made for the entertainment of the Philosophers , and imployed the Timber to make Engines for the battery of the Town . There it was that such men were interred ●s had done any great Service for their Country ; among others , Harmodius , Aristogiton , and Thrasibulus . Upon the two Wings of this Faubourg there was a kind of Forrest , of Marble Pillars , loaden with so many Statues and Epitaphs , that he , who in a short time had a mind to understand all the great actions of that Common-wealth , had no more to do than to read over all those Elogies and Inscriptions . Among the rest of the Tombs there was one for Zeno the Philosopher , which his old friend Antigonus obtained from the Athenians as a considerable favour . Plato had his Monument too , but nor so magnificent , for which he may thank himself , for it was he that regulated their exorbitancy in their Tombs , affirming that a Stone big enough to have four Verses engraven upon it , was big enough for the recording of any mans memory after he was dead . Not far from this Academy there stood a little Temple , dedicated to Bacchus Liber ; a little consecrated Inclosure , in which they worshipt Diana , sirnamed Calista ; and Monuments to the honour of Theseus , Oedipus , and Pirithous . Among several Altars dispersed up and down , Minerva , Vulcan , Neptune , Hercules , the Muses , Love , and Prometheus had every one one . That was the first that ever was dedicated to Love , and the first man that ever came thither to sacrifice was Charmus , the favourite of Pisistrates . The Altar of Prometheus was famous for a Course which was run there during the Festivals consecrated to Minerva ; for the Athenians sometimes on foot , and sometimes on Horse-back , started at this Altar ( each with a light Torch in his hand ) and running quite along the Faubourg to an appointed place , he who made his Course without putting out his Torch , had a Prize for his pains , and was in great reputation with the people . Plato being the first Philosopher that ●aught in the Academy , gave the name of Academicks to all of his Sect. After his death ( which is now 2016 years since ) Learning increased in Athens so considerably , that two other Academies were erected , as well to accommodate the multitude of Scholars , as by reason of diversity of Opinions that began to spread among them : Arcesilas founded the second Academy , and Lecydes the third . Their Doctrine in general consisted in ●hese Principles , That nothing ought to be positively affirmed , because nothing could be certainly known . That there were of all things certain Species which they called Phantasies ; which Species were not formed according to the nature of the things , but according to the disposition of the body or object to which those Species were carried : From whence they maintained that nothing subsisted actually in it self , or had any proper or peculiar Essence , but subsisted only by reference , as they were formed in our Senses , not in the subject from whence they flowed , and this you may find in Aulus Gellius . Their Morality bore the character of Piety and Religion , and the doctrine of the Academy obtaining a long time , was taught in the University of Paris . At length the doctrine of the Peripateticks was introduced , and the Lycaeum prevailed with us as more subtil and consentaneous with Nature . When we arrived at this famous School , how strangely were we surprized ? how sadly were we affected to behold its ruine and desolation ? There was nothing to be seen but heaps of Rubbish , and great splinters of Stone over-grown with Grass , or covered over with Earth . Here and there were a few Fig-Trees and Olive-Trees , and pittiful Cabins where the Gardiners were lodged . If in so melancholy a spectacle any thing occurred of consolation , it was , to think that the name of that place , and the qualities of that Genius which presided there , were transplanted to Paris ; for in short , we must acknowledge as Rome did of old , Omnis ubertas , & quasi sylva dicendi , ab Academia ducta est . All our Elegance , and exactness of expression , is deducible from the Academy . But the name of Academy is almost lost in Athens , and it is called at this day The School of Plato . It is scarce possible to dig six foot deep into the ground , but you must find some considerable piece of Antiquity . Some three or four years since a Gardiner digged up a Pallas of white Marble , which he sold to Giraud for two Crowns . Giraud's Wife was , as I told you , an Athenian , of a pleasant merry humour , as appears by a trick she put upon Father Simon . She laid this Statue in a Bed betwixt a pair of Sheets , and sending for the Father , told him one of her Maids was sick , and desired to be confessed . The Statue was dressed very decently in night linnen , and the Father turned alone into her Chamber . The Father was grave and modest , and kept himself at a distance , and his modesty contributed to the Cheat. He fell immediately to his pious Exhortations , endeavouring thereby to dispose the poor Creature to Repentance , and the examination of her Conscience . The Mistress of the House called out to him , from behind the door , to speak out , for the Maid was deaf , and had been so a long time . The good man elevated his voice , and went nearer to the Bed , when the good woman entring hastily into The Room , Let us see , Sir , said she , 't is possible she may be dead , and then she has no need of your Confession , and so running to the Bed side , she turned up the Cloaths and shew'd him the Pallas , which put the whole company into a laughter . The House the Famous Misanthropos , is to be seen about a hundred paces from the ruines of the Academy : The place is now full of Fig Tree , and if you would entertain your self with the story of that renowned Enemy to mankind , read what Plutarch says in the Life of Mark Anthony . Returning towards our Lodging , we came on the left hand to the foot of Mount St. George , where we saw the ruines which at this day they call the School of Zeno , though indeed it was nothing but his Tomb : You may remember what I have said of it in speaking of the Porcile or Stoa . About half a mile from the Town ; the great Road is cut in the midst by two other , and make a Carrefour , where there stood formerly a Statue of Mercury , sirnamed the Tetracephalos . The Oratour Ephialtes ( who if you will believe Pericles , was a great lessening and diminution to the authority of the Areopage ) had his Tomb within a small distance . On Thursday the 25. of April , we marched out in the morning to visit the ruines of Stadion Panathenaicon , and the Palace of Adrian . By the Gate through which we passed to Raphti , we saw the Triclinion , an excellent piece of Antiquity , not yet taken notice of by any Authour : It is a large Stone , digged some years since out of the Earth , and embellished with incomparable Bas-relief representing a Hall and a Banquet of the Ancients , from which Picture it is called Triclinion . A Greek has placed it in the wall of his House as an Ornament to it . Without the Port de Raphti we left the Palace of Adrian on our left hand , and on one side the place which they call Ta Mnimuria ; it is a Cemetery of the Turks , who quite through the Levant , are buried without the City . The ancient Athenians practised the same Custom , and it was by particular favour when they suffered any of their Tombs to be within the compass of their Walls . But now a days the Christians are buried in their Churches . As we passed to the Bridge over the River Ilissus , we observed a place where formerly was the Tribunal called Ardettos , where the Judges took a solemn Oath to Jupiter , Apollo , and Ceres , to administer Justice according to the Laws of the Land , and where the Laws were defective to proceed according to their Conscience . There it was that there was an Altar consecrated to the Muses called Ilissiades ; and there it was that Codrus King of Athens was slain . Near the Bridge we saw another place , the ruines of a Chappel which they called Agios Phrancos , where the Image of St. Francis is to be still seen painted upon the Wall. When the Accioles were Masters of this Country , they erected a Chappel in honour of this Saint , which is yet in so great veneration , that the Christians do at this day give that name to their Children in Baptism . The Bridge stands upon three Arches , through which the River Illisus passed in former times , but at present it is dry , having been diverted and divided by an infinite number of little Rivulets , cut on purpose to supply the Water-works in the Gardens about the Town ; and it was a wonder to us to consider , that whereas commonly Fountains were contracted , and their Waters brought together to make Rivers ; here the Illisus was exhausted and annihilated to furnish their Fountains . The Bridan that passed of old through Athens , had a worse destiny , for its Chanel is lost , and nothing of it now to be seen . On the other side of the Bridge is the quarter which they call indifferently Agra and Agrae ; where Boreas one of the Gods of the Winds stole away Orythia a Daughter of the King of Athens : and Diana the Goddess was first delighted with the recreation of Hunting . The Soil is Sandy , and great plenty there is of Partridge , but they are not so good as ours . Not far off there is a little eminence , upon which are to be seen the ruines of the Goddess Diana , sirnamed Agrotera or the Huntress ; to whom the Athenians annually made a Sacrifice of 500 male Goats , to acquit themselves of a Vow into which they entered before the Battel of Marathon . From this little Hill , we surveyed the ruines of the Stadion Panathenaicon ; they are still so magnificent , that we were amazed to behold them , and could not but among our selves say of that morsel that was left , what Pausanias said of it when it was entire , That it was not to be looked upon without admiration . This Stadion was the place where the publick Courses were kept ; its figure was oval , and as exact , as if Nature had intended it on purpose as a list and bound of their Cariere . The rows of Stairs that are still visible , are of white Marble : and the Area was so large , that Adrian the Emperour ( as a spectacle to the people ) caused in one day a thousand Wild Beasts to be baited in it . At the foot of this Hill of the Temple of Diana , stands a Temple of Ceres , built of white Marble , as neat and spruce a piece of work as is in the world . It is now made use of by the Greeks for a Church , and in it there is the Picture of our Saviour upon the Cross , as well done as ever I saw . Here it was that Hercules was first initiated to the smaller Mysteries of Ceres , for the grand Mysteries were celebrated in another Temple dedicated to the said Goddess , but with the Title of Elusinion . From thence we passed to the Temple of Agne ; I would not judge rashly of the devotion of our Company , but I am afraid it was not so much that that carried them thither , as curiosity to see the place where Hercules had been . From thence turning to the right , we went to see the stately Pillars , and magnificent Portail remaining of the Palace of Adrian ; the common people call it Didascalion . The Emperour Adrian having turned it into a Gymnasion , had spared no cost either in the choice of his Marble , or the gilding and decoration of the Seeling and Wainscot ; and when finished he put into it the Library of Pisistrates , who was the first that ever made so accurate a collection of Books : and to speak truth never poor Books made so many peregrinations . Xerxes carried them first into Persia , from whence , a long time after , Seleucus Nicanor returned them to Athens ; in the days of Sylla they transmigrated to Rome , but could not rest there , for Adrian sent them back to adorn his Gymnasion . Near these Pillars we saw the Ta Mnimouria or Cemetery of the Turks , and on one side , the rubbish of the Temple of Juno , being the remains of a large one built by Adrian , and dedicated in common to Juno and Jupiter , it was called Pan-Hellenien , and is at present a Greek Church . Hard by there was a little Plain where the Turks used to gallop their Horses , which minds me of a story of Father Lewis , who as I told you before , had been a Lieutenant Colonel , and as good a Horseman as was in the Army . This good Father returning one day from Medelli on Horse-back , booted and spur'd , and with a long Greek Vest over his habit ( which is permited when their Mission appoints them any extraordinary Voyage ) passing over this place , he saw a mad-headed furious Jade throw five or six Turks one after another , and all of them reputed very good Jockies . The Sardar , Vaywood , and several Cheliby's were by . The Father could not but smile , and the Vaywood observing it , asked him if in France their Horsemen were better : The poor Father answered with another smile , which being looked upon as a contempt of their Skill , and a defiance of their Nation , the Cheliby's were nettled , and cried out to have the Caloger get up : The whole company concur'd , and nothing could serve , but he must immediately mount , not doubting but the Horse would serve him in the same kind , and that in a short time they should see his divinity upon the ground . The Father pretended to excuse himself , but the Sardar was the more obstinate : I cannot say but in despight of the mortification of his Order , the good man might have some little vanity upon him , and be touched too much for the reputation of his Countrymen . Be it how it will , he alighted from his own , and mounting the mad Horse , he Gallop'd and chang'd , rid him all the Airs of an Academy , and all the Exercises of the Army , and , contrary to the expectation of the Turks , mastered him with so much comliness and dexterity , that the Vaywood telling the Cheliby's he had been a Souldier , and made several Campagnes in his own Country , they called him ever after the Colonel Caloger . We came home the sooner , that after dinner we might take a larger walk , and we began it by the great Street called Ceramicus or Basar , which at this day is the fairest in the City : It took its name from Heros Ceramos , the Son of Ariana and Bacchus . But for the Vicus Ceramicus in the Suburbs as you go along to the Academy , it was called so from the Pot-makers that lived in that Faubourg , as the Greek word implies . Our Janizary carried us into the Pantheon which stands on one side of this Street : I thought it much more magnificent than the Rotund at Rome , which was also a Pantheon , and built by Agrippa : That at Athens was built above Six-score years after by the Emperour Adrian . For a long time it was a Greek Church dedicated to the Virgin Mary by the name of Panagia , but it is since turned into a Mosque by the Turks . There were two very fine Horses of the work of Praxatiles which Adrian caused to be set up ; they are still to be seen , but they begin to decay , and must erelong yield like other things to the mischievousness of time . The Porticoes that of old time ran along from thence to the Gate of Dypilon , were remarkable for nothing more than for being the Walk and Rendezvous of all the Prostitutes of the Town , many of whose names are with the names of their Gallants written upon their Pillars and Walls ; of which you may see more in the Dialogues of Lucian . The Bazar formerly the Market-place of the Ceramique , is still in that Street ; in the middle of which there is a little Hall , with a Fountain on one side of it . On the ground where the Hall is built , there stood anciently an Altar consecrated to Mercy , and at a little distance another called Dodecatheon , being dedicated to twelve Gods. On one side of the Dodecatheon was their Cyclos or place where they sold their Prisoners of War. The richest of the Inhabitants , and particularly their Vecchiados have their houses near this Bazar . The House of Dimitrios Beninzellos is on one side of the Pantheon : The House of his Brother Janis Beninzellos is over against it . I had the curiosity to see the Lodgings of Stamantis Calchondilos , in memory of the famous Historian Laonicus Calchondilos who was an Athenian , and of the same Family . This Stamatis is one of the Vecchiados , and rich ; but the rest of his Relations are very poor men , and one of them a Taylor in the Town . The publick Butchery separates the Bazar from another great Market-place , which the Ancients called simply Agora ; but touching upon the two Streets of Colonos and Colytos , the two ends of it were called by their Names . There is an excellent Statue to be seen in it , it is called Agoraeus , much like the Statue of the same Mercury before the Poecile : At present this Agora is called the Cadi's Place , because he has a House there himself , and his Seraglio looks out upon it . Over against this Place stands the Catholicon which the Christians call their Ca●hedral , or Archiepiscopal Church . It is ●ot much greater than the Church of St. Innocents in Paris . The Caloger Damaskinos is one of its principal Dignitaries , being Grand Vicar to the Archbishop . Tradition tells us that this Catholicon was a Temple dedicated to Vulcan , and the same that was consecrated promiscuously to Vulcan and Minerva : Minerva had a Statue in it with blew Eyes , of the same colour with the Waves of the Sea , because , as Plutarch affirms , she was thought to be Neptune's Daughter . St. Austin tells us of a Child exposed in this Temple , and of a Dragon that hugg'd and defended it : Plato says that the Souldiers listed in Athens for their Wars , had their Quarter in this place . In a direct line from the Catholicon , over against the Cadi's Place , stands the Phylaki , or publick Prison . The Temple of Venus Vrania stands behind the Phylaki , and is turned into a Mosque . It was no little satisfaction to us , to find the scituation of all these Buildings exactly to the description we met withal in the old Athenian Orators ; for you must not imagine tha● only their Historians make mention of them . As we never went to see any quarter of the Town till we had considered and studied it very well in our Chamber ; it was , methought , very pleasant to hear us as soon ●● we came near any place , to tell one another This is such a Temple ; this such a Building ; and this such a Ruine ; and our great satisfaction was to hit generally right . The Colytos is a quarter below the Cadi's place , and stands towards the South ; Plato , and that great Misanthropos Timon were born in it : Eschines the Oratour , contemporary with Demosthenes , lived in it : You may see in Plutarch the ingenious answer of Demosthenes when he accused Demades the Orator for having been taken in Adultery in the Colytos . Tertullian has a considerable observation of this place ; he tells us that Children do sooner learn to speak there , than any where else ; and Philostrates affirms that they are generally born handsomer and more beautiful there , for which reason they are called the delights of Greece : I astonished the Inhabitants when I told them these things ; but as to the beauty of their Children , Experience does at this day confirm the testimony of the Ancients . And thus I have brought you through a quarter , of which Pausanias has not mentioned a word , no more than of that of Melita which came so near the Colytos that there was nothing but a Pillar that distinguished them . It was the Nymph Melita , one of Hercules his Mistresses that gave that name to that place , in which there was a Temple consecrated to Hercules , and an excellent Statue of him done by the famous Gelidas , who was Phidias his Master . Besides that , there were likewise three other Temples , one dedicated to Diana , sirnamed Aristobul● , and built by Themistocles ; another to Heros Melanippos the Son of Theseus ; and the third to Heros Eurysaces the son of Ajax , from which Eurysaces Alcibiades was descended . Finding in this quarter several Greek Churches , and particularly two Covents of Calogers , or Religious of the Order of St. Basilia , we were very inquisitive whether none of them were built upon the ruines of some of these Temples , but tradition failed us , and we could not have that satisfaction which we found in other places , where examining the Cornishes and Chapters , and Frizes betwixt the Pillars , we found sometimes Eagles , sometimes Thunderbolts , as the symbols of Jupiter ; sometimes Serpents and Clubs as the symbols of Hercules ; Harps of Apollo , and so of the rest ; but here we could find nothing o● them : However we were assured that there was the Palace of Themistocles ; that Epicurus and Photion had their Houses there ; and History tells us of a great Building there where those persons assembled who prepared any thing for the Stage . The other ancient quarter called Colonos , is near the Melita , and divided only by a large Portico called Macra Stoa , because composed of five others joined together . In this Colonos it was that anciently the old Artificers and such people lived as wrought for the publick ; for which reason it was likewise called Misthi●s ; but without the Town there was another Colonos , called Hippios , which the Translators of Pausanias call Equestre ju●um ; it is below Zenon's School , and Eastward of the Academy ; from thence we directed our walk towards Mount Pentelicus : and by the way We passed by an ancient Gate they called Pilae Hippades , or the Horse Gate , because in that Colonos Hippios there were store of Horses to be lett : On the right hand we left the ruines of a magnificent Aquaeduct , begun of old by Adrian , and ●inished by his successor Antoninus Pius : This Aquaeduct served for conveyance of water from the Didascalion to Adrian's Palace . In the way from hence to Raphti , not far from this Aquaeduct , on the right hand we saw the place where stood the ancient Gate of Acharnae ; and more to the South the Gate of Melita , which they called Pylae Melitides ; beyond which Gate lay the Faubourg of Coela , where were the Tombs of Cimon and Thucydides . The Colonos Hippios seemed a very pleasant place to us ; Pausanias only names it , without any mention of four remarkable Temples to be seen there : one of Venus , another of Neptune , a third of Prometheus , and fourth of the Eumenides or infernal Furies . In this last it was that Oedipus took Sanctuary , when full of remorse for his Parricide and incestuous Marriage , he betook himself thither implore the mercy of the Athenians , who received him with their natural hospitality . At the foot of the Mount Pentelicus we found an old reservatory of waters that were conveyed by the Aquaeduct to the Palace of Adrian : We found a Spring there whose waters were very pleasant , and of ● more than ordinary freshness , they called it Brisis or Vrisis , for they pronounce ● both ways : the Mount Pentelicus they cal● To Vouni tou Agion Georgiou ; but they pronounce Ahyou for Agyou , and Hyoriou fo● Georgiou . We ascended the Mountain but slowly , because our Physician entertained us as we went along with a discourse upon the several Simples and Plants which grew there in great excellence : We saw also the Quarries , out of which was taken a great part of the Marble imployed in adorning the City of old . Upon any great Rain the fall of Water from this Mountain was very great ; and searching for the Chanel of the Torrent called Cycloborus , we found three or four that were dry , and probably all of them that which we looked for , because if we will believe the Poet Aristophanes , that Torrent did frequently change its Chanel , and run down with a more than ordinary noise . Upon the top of the Mountain there was a Chapel called Agios Georgios governed by a Caloger ; the Chapel stands in the place where Pausanias tells us there was anciently a Statue of Pallas . The common people at this day do by mistake attribute that to this Statue , which Antiquity with more justice ascribes to the Statue of Pallas in the Castle , viz. that on the top of her Lance she carried a Banner that might be discerned as far as the Cape de Colonnes . This Chapel is a place of devotion for the Athenians , to which they often repair in Pilgrimage . From this Mountain we discovered with ease the whole circumference both of the Old and New Athens : And casting our eyes upon two or three Monasteries of the order of St. Bazil , not far from the Mount Hymetta , and upon certain Villages upon the roads to Thebes and Megara , one of our Company pointing us to a Mountain about a League off , acquainted us that that was the Mountain which the Ancients called Icaria , at the foot of which there was a Town call'd by that name where the first Comedy was invented . This put it into our heads to Visit the next morning the Theatre of Bacchus , and thereupon coming down from Mount Pentelicus , we entertain'd our selves with the consideration of the Village of Icaria , It is most certain the inhabitants of this Town were the first inventors of Comedy : Icarius , Lord of the Mannor , and famous for being the first Planter of Vines in those parts , having one day caused his people to fley a Goat that he took spoiling his Grapes , he caused the Skin to be blown up , and giving it to the Peasants , they in merriment leaped and skipped upon it having dressed themselves with Vine leaves , and besmear'd their faces with the Lees of Wine : Which sort of Dancing grew to a custom in Vintage time , and was used in all the neighbouring Villages : and the fumes of the new Wines having at such times an ill-effect upon their brains , because it often happened that they were ill treated by the rich Citizens of Athens , who had lands in the said Towns ; the Peasants took the opportunity of these Feasts to affront and retaliate upon their adversaries . When night came , attended by throngs of people that this divertisement had drawn together ; they marcht along together in a tumult to inveigh and clamor against those who had done them any injury , advancing to their very doors , and upbraiding them publickly : Those who had authority in those Villages failed not the next Morning to inquire into the Riot , and to commence an Action against all those who were so enormous the night before ; and comonly the tumult ceased either for fear of punishment , or shame . This expedient succeeding so well in the Country , and appearing a good remedy against those disorders , the same custom was taken up in Athens : The Rendezvous or Confluence of common people was generally in a Medow called Lenaeon in the quarter called Lymnae ; and because it was near the Ancient Temple of Bacchus , by degrees these kind of Pranks grew into the ceremonies of Religion , became part of their divine worship , and by little and little to be a particular part in the Festivals of that God. As occasion served they continued their invectives ( under that pretence ) against such as had offered them Violence . At length the Poets took up the same Method to upbraid particular vices , or to turn their follies into ridicule : Then it was that the Athenians withdrew their representations from their Market place ; and Exhibited them in a large Room which they called a Theatre , and dedicated it to Bacchus , to instruct Posterity , that it was the Vintage time that gave the first occasion to Comedies . At first their whole action was performed by the Chorus , which was the whole body of their Musick both instrumental and vocal . Thespis the Poet was the first man who , dissatisfied with the singing of the Chorus , brought in one Actor , with the natural way of recitation : And Eschiles as much offended to see one person ingross the whole Play , brought up the way of conversation , and exhibited two Actors upon the Stage . The Poet Cratinus introduced three ; and afterwards their number was advanced to five , which was the reason they divided their whole Play into five Acts. Then was the whole action performed betwixt the Comedians , the Mimicks , the Chorus , and the symphony or Musick : and the whole show seen upon two Elevations or Platforms , which served as Posts or particular places for the several persons : The Comedians Quarter was called Proscenion , and was peculiar to them : The other was in common , and called sometimes the Orchestra , and sometimes the Logaeon . There were five intervals betwixt the five Acts , in which the Spectators were entertained either by the Chorus , or the Mimicks . The word Mime was used promiscuously for the name of the Poem , or for the Actor who danced as he recited , and made his postures and gesticulations as he was prompted by the subject . Sometimes the Mime was called Pantomime , which is but a term of exaggeration that puts greater force upon the thing , for Mines is an Imitator , and Pantomimos is an imitator of every thing . Sometimes their representations were Heroick , to excite to generosity , but for the most part they were upon amorous Intrigues ; and criminal prostitutions : At such times their Dances were lascivious , their Gestures indecent , and their Songs immodest , according to the obscenity of the subject , in so much that the Orchestra began to be infamous . But above above all , none was so impudent as the Dance they called Lamprotera , in which they not only danced stark naked , but added the filthiness of words to the effrontery of their postures : So that though the Proscenion was not guilty of these impurities , yet it became disgustful to the adversaries of Comedy , who were not willing to distinguish it from the Orchestra ; whereby the Comedian has suffered much among those who will not allow any difference betwixt him and the Mimick ; but the Proscenion may easily be justified ; for we need no more but cast our eyes upon the Tragedies transmitted by the Ancients , and we shall see that in the action of those heroick parts it is impossible the Comoedian should introduce that baseness of Gesture , or be guilty of a dissolute Dance , in so magnificent a matter . And if in time that Corruption has crept into Comedy , if sordid expressions have mingled with good instruction , and scandal gone along with their documents , it does but infer that few things are so pure , but they are subject to be altered , and those that are altered may by good customs be rectified again . And indeed we are not to admire if St. Cyprian and other Fathers of the Church declaim against Stage-plays , and on the other side Thomas Aquinas , Antoninus , Cardinal Cajetan and Raynerius do magnifie the use of them , seeing both sides have spoke according to the different ways of writing in their several times . These are the reflections with which the fight of Icaria inspired us ; and indeed Comedy being a thing which originally we received from Athens , it was but reasonable we should consider whether it was proportionable to the other great faculties that we derived from thence ; and whether we were not justly to admire that wisdom and contrivance which invented so pleasant a way of relaxing our cares , diverting the activity of our Spirits , and sweetning our ferocity and moroseness by the concourse and society of Spectacles . On Friday the 26. of April , in the morning we took a large Breakfast by way of precaution against the long walk which we proposed to our selves . Besides that , our Janizary had sent two men before to attend us at the Fountain of Enneacrunos with more belly-timber , and two or three lusty Flasks of Lepanthe Wine , esteemed the best in those parts . These Flasks among the Athenians are a kind of Glass-bottles that hold each of them three or four pints . The Venetian calls them Bosse's ; but our common Bottles the Athenians call Laghenis . Our Janizary carried us first into the Chief Monastery of the Calogers , but without his Interest we had never been admitted into their Church : Their Church is one of the best buildings in Athens , and the Calogers have a particular care of it . There are many Shoomakers in the street where this Monastery stands , in the midst of which there is an excellent Fountain . Behind this Shoomakers-row stands the house of Baptista Janis Traperi , a Native of Chio , and Interpreter to the French Consul . This Interpreter is one of the subtillest and most dangerous Wits in the whole Levant : He is Turk among the Turks , Greek among the Greeks , Franc among the Francs , and hypocritical with all the world : In matters of Commerce , he is particularly intelligent ; never tells the mystery and bottom of his affairs to any body , to make himsel● necessary the longer ; and indeed that necessity has preserved him a hundred time● both from the Kangiar and poison . He ha● two Brothers in Athens not altogether so rich , but of better reputation . The Consul is as happy in his Janizary as in hi● Dragoman , for he has got a true Soker tha● will drink more Wine than four of our Mariners of Provence , and his Wine is nothing so good . This honest Mahumetan is called Ibrahim Bassa , but you must not think that with such a fellow the word Bassa passes for a Title of Honour . The house of the old Archbishop is over against this Monastery , over which he has the superinspection , for besides him they have no Superiour : Their habit is black , and their subsistence partly from their Foundation , and partly from what they earn with their needle ; but should that fail them , the charity of their neighbours would not , for in that Town no body begs ; if any be indigent , some body or other takes him home to his house , and there is never an Hospital in Athens . Some of our Travellers are to blame , and their character not to be believed when they report that the Calogers of Athens are exorbitant and irregular ; certainly they have taken that scandal from the Turks , or some other Libertines of that Country , and we our selves are not free from such sort of calumniators with us . About two hundred paces from this Monastery they shewed us a little house , where not long before an accident happened that evinces the Piety of the Athenians , and proves that the Zeal of Christianity is not more fervent among the Ecclesiasticks than ●mong the Laity of that Town . There lived in that house a good Man and his Wife , who had only one Son of about ten or twelve years of Age , but excellently handsom , and very well educated . The Turkish Commissioners that raised their tribute of Children , put this Boy down for one into their List : the Father and Mother were poor people , and had not wherewithall to ransom their Son ( for in Athens that is one of their priviledges , and any man who is able , has liberty to redeem his Children ) terrified with this misfortune , they conveyed away their Child , but the Turks seized the Father in the Sons stead , and to force him to discover , they clapt him in irons : The poor Woman followed after her Husband , crying and lamenting as if she were mad ; the Turks turned back and beat her , her Husband comforted her what he could , beg'd of her to be contented , and to return to her Family . The Son understanding how his Parents were used , came home to his Mother , and with tears in his eyes , Do you suspect my courage dear Mother ? said he , I will after my Father , and save his life though with the loss of my own : The Mother overwhelmed with grief , and divided cruelly betwixt her Husband and her Son , knew not what to advise , but at length leaving him to himself , he came to the Commissioners of the Tribute , and told them , If the service of the Sultan be the only thing in question , I will readily lay down my life at his feet ; but my Religion I cannot change , nor is it necessary , for perhaps I may serve him as a Christian , as well as any of your Agemoglans . The Commissioners cox'd him , and caress'd him ; He desired his Father might be discharged , and having kiss'd and embrac'd him , presented himself to the Irons , speaking still with great reverence to our Religion , and reflection upon the Turkish : persisting so eagerly in that discourse , the Turks began to be angry , but still endeavoured to reclaim him ; however he continued firm to his Principles , declared , and repeated it over and over , that he would dye a Christian ; and remained so positive , that the Turks fell into a rage , and upbraided him with blasphemy , and having accused him of it , and made some formal process before the Cadi to countenance their cruelty , they cut ●he poor Child to pieces with their Swords ●n the middle of the Bazar . This occasion presenting it self , I shall give ●ou the Relation of the Zeal and Piety of ● Young Athenian Damoisel ; that at the ●ame time you may have a double Example , ●nd be satisfied of the Virtue as well of one ●er as the other . This Virgin was one of the handsomest in all Athens , and yet her prudence and sagacity was greater than her beauty : From her minority she had alwayes expressed a great deal of Devotion , and yet she durst not follow its motions , which prompted her exceedingly to the Church . For apprehending the insolence of some Turk as she passed thorow the streets , she went thither seldomer than otherwise she would have done ; and the truth is , when ever they appear , the Turks will take the first opportunity to accost them . In spite of her caution , a spruce young Turk got a sight one day of this Virgin , and fell in love with her ; having made his address to no purpose , as he lost his labour , he lost his patience with it , and conspired with certain of his Accomplices like himself , to gain her by force . They have a certain Feast ( like our Easter ) which they call Bairam Coutzong , at which time , having more freedom of debaucherie than ordinary , they resolved to put their designs in practice , and accordingly entred by force into the young Athenians house , who was at home along with no body but her Mother who was a Widow : In apprehension of their violence , they both of them cry'd out as soon as they saw them , but no body came into their rescue ; for , besides that , during the liberty of the Bairam , the Christians do generally keep themselves close , their house was in a by-place , and somewhat out of the way : The resistance , and refractoriness of this young Damoisel inraged them to such a degree , that finding their importunity unsuccessful they fell to blows , and gave her seven or eight stabs with a poinard : that which was most admirable in the passage , was , that still as they stab'd , she presented her face , as if she had been desirous to be wounded there , to ruine that part which had caused such extravagant passion in those Brutes : They left her for dead , and 't is reported that the only thing that recovered her , was the joy she conceived to find her self disfigured beyond any such influence for the future : But the Assassines were glad to fly , and never appeared since ; for complaint was made to the Keslar-Agasi , who would without all doubt have punished them severely . Since this accident , in ●ll the Families of Athens , ( both Turk and Christian ) no discourse is held among the ●oung Maidens , but up comes this story ; ●nd the good women have no better lesson ●o each their Daughters , than to imitate ●his Damoisel ; nor better memorial for ●hem , than to show them the scars of her face . When we were in Athens , the poor Girle was living in the Isle of Engia , If the Christian Religion was not sufficient to move these Athenian Damoisels to Chastity , the fear of punishment would do it effectually . Those who are defective that way , are condemned to be sold for slaves , and upon conviction 't is not easie to escape . 'T is the Cadi's interest to see that Law strictly executed , for the profit is his , and upon the least accusation he causes them to be inspected by the Midwives : Not but there are wayes of evading it , and a thousand artifices are found out to prevent their slavery ; sometimes the Confessor intercedes , and suggesting the danger of their turning Mahumetans , abates the rigour of their Laws , and conceals the dishonour of their Families . In a word , in all Greece manifest immodesty is no where so severely punished as in Athens . The Virgins in Athens are generally handsom , witty , and vindicative ; you may judge what they were formerly , by the single example of Thais , who followed Alexander the Great in his Expedition into Persia : Being with that Monarch one day when he was in a good humour , she proposed to him to burn the Palace-Royal at Persepolis , and was so plain as to profess a desire of putting fire to it her self , that the world might say , that the very Damoisels which attended in his Conquests in Persia , had revenged the burning at Athens , when of old it was set on fire by Xerxes ; and her beauty and eloquence so far recommended her ambition , that she was gratified in her motion , and the Palace set on fire that very night . Our curiosity carried us from thence out of the Castle to the Southward betwixt the Phalerum and the Porto-Lione , where was anciently the old City of Athens , called by way of excellence Asti , or the City , the foundation of which , according to the testimony of Pliny , began there . The two Brothers , Euryalus and Hyperbius were the first who built houses there , before which time they were lodged in Grottos , still to be seen at the foot of the Castle . The quarters of Lymnae , Coepi , Diomea , Cynosarges , and Alopece are still on that side , and were all we saw that Walk . We returned by the Temple of Jupiter , and keeping still by the foot of the Castle , we passed behind the house where , the Jesuites had formerly their retreat , and on our right hand we saw the remains of a building , at present called , To Palati tou Themistocles , or Themistocles his Palace . Among the Ancients there was nothing could give Authority to the Modern Appellation , for by them it was called the Palace of the five hundred , which was the number of Select Men chosen every year by the Ten Tribes of Attica , each Tribe naming fifty , who alternatively , and according to the rank of their several Tribes had the supreme management of affairs for five and thirty dayes together , and their Court being held in the place called Prytane , gave the name of Prytanes to the said fifty Senators . Cajetan , Drogoman to the Consul Giraud , had his Lodgings in this Palace of Themistocles . A little beyond it we saw the Temple of Neptune , a very admirable Structure . Of the three Temples Dedicated anciently to that God , we could meet nothing that could assure us whether this was the Elates , the Cynades or Asphalius . It is at present a Greek Church , govern'd by the Caloger Damaskinos , whose house being hard by , and upon the brow of a Rock , is the highest in the whole City . 'T is reported , that many rare Manuscripts are kept in that house . Near the Temple of Neptune there is a Fountain of the same name , whose waters are turned for the benefit of the Castle : From thence we came into the Vicus Ceramicus , where we saw on our right hand the place where formerly stood the Leocorion , or Monument of Leos , who having sacrificed his Daughters for the safety of the publick , deserved well to have a Tomb in the City . Facing about to the left , we saw the ruines of a magnificent Building , called the Kings Portico , that is to say , the Portico of the King of the Sacrifices , or the second of the Archontes . The Portico of Jupiter Elutherion was behind it , and Eudancon , or the Tomb of Heros Eudanos was hard by , which Eudanos was sirnamed Angelos the Son of Neptune . Thence towards the Castle , we observed the Metroon or Chapel of the Mother of the Gods , in which place died Lycurgus the Son of Lycophron , as famous in Athens , as the Legislator Lycurgus was in Sparta . The Barathron or Orygma , that famous dungeon into which their criminals were tumbled , was behind that Metroon at the foot of a steep Rock in the Castle ; and near the Barathron , was the Tribunal called Parabysthus , in which only small Causes were tryed ; and that Court consisted of eleven Judges : The nearness of this Court to the Barathron ( which was an ignominious place ) was the occasion that some Authors have said , that the Parabysthus stood in a vile and abominable place . At small distance from the Kings Portico , we saw the Bucoleon or Court where the King of the Sacrifices had his Tribunal : Not far from that we saw the ruines of a small Chapel , called Agios Dionysios , where Mass is said constantly upon Saint Denis his day . To restore that Chapel one would have need not only of Money , but good interest at the Port , where they suffer Christians to repair their Churches , they will not suffer them to rebuild them when they are down : This Chapel joyns to the Archbishops Palace , which they pretend was the Palace of Saint Denis . The place is very pleasant , and is the lodgings of the Archbishop and five Calogers that make up his whole Family . They shew us a Well there , which among the Christians is in great Veneration , because as their tradition tells them , Saint Paul was a prisoner in it , and rescued by the Authority of Saint Denis . Not far from the ruines of the Prytaneum we saw the Court where the fifty Senators Assembled who had the Administration of the Publick Affairs : The perpetual Fire was kept there . The Laws of Solon were there in deposito , and such illustrious men as had done any signal service for their Country were maintained there , and their Posterity at the Publick Charge . On the right hand towards the Temple of Theseus , there was a Grove dedicated to the Heroina Aglaura daughter to King Cecrops , and behind the Grove was a field Consecrated to Famine ; the field was called Limoupedion . Formerly the Gate called Hiera stood at the end of this field : Hiera is as much as sacred , and it was called so , because it was the way to Eleusis , by which they passed in their famous Procession belonging to the mysteries of Ceres . ●n this place they had erected a fair Statue of Anthemocritus , for whom they had also set up a Tomb by the Gate Dipylon . Without the Port Hiera was anciently a large ●eubourg , whose ruines are still visible . It was called Hiera Siki , or the Holy Fig●●●e ; and the way to Eleusis was called Hi●ra Odos . The Port Dipylon lies Eastward of the Hiera , and betwixt them is another called the Ceramick Postern ; not far from whence is a place called Oenos , where they sold their Wine , which gave it its denomination ; for in Athens most of their chief streets are called from the principal Commodities that ●re sold there . That space of the old Town that lies betwixt Dipylon and the Ceramick Postern , was called Oeon or the Desert , because , though it butted upon the Ceramicus , yet no part of the great affluence of people that passed there could be seen . The Famous Temple of Anaceon was not far off , which was Consecrated to Castor and Pollux by the name of Diosc●res . Formerly Slaves were sold in it , and when Pisistrates disarmed the Athenians , he cause'd them to assemble in that place . Westward of the Porte Hiera was the Pyraeum , and the part of the Town betwix● them , was called Heptachalcon , through● which Sylla came when he surprized Athens . We contented our selves to view all thi● from a little Hill near the Arch-Bishop'● Palace , without troubling our selves to go to them : that day we thought of nothing but running from one place to another , a● if we had intended that way to have tyre● our curiosity ; besides , people are quickly satisfied where nothing but ruines are to be seen . Advancing from thence towards the ancient Gate called Pyraeum , we saw severa● Portico's ; that of Attalus where the R●mans erected a particular Court , and calle● it by their own name : The Portico of Trecon called by Aristophanes Alphiton St●●● because they sold Meal in it : In it there was an excellent Picture of Helen drawn by ●euxis . The Chapel of Heros Chalodos ( of which Plutarch speaks in the life of Theseus ) was not far off , and by it a house where we saw several Statues of Potters Earth , and among the rest the Statue of Amphictyon King Athens . We saw likewise where stood the house of Polytion , remarkable for the libertinisme of Alcibiedes when he prophaned the Mysteries of Ceres with the young Debauchees of the Town : In process of time this house was turned into a Temple and dedicated to Bacchus . Not far off was a Gymnasium of Mercuries with a Porticoe and Market-place of the same name ; and because nothing of Antiquity ought ( at least in my fancy ) to be lost , and the least observation is to be recorded in that case ; it is not amiss to let you know that near the Portico there are to be seen the ruines of a large Courèon or Barbars Shop , of which Lysias makes mention . Behind this Portico , is the Garden of Melanthus the Philosopher , in which Garden the Orator Lycurgus was buried ; a little beyond we saw Statues representing a Combate betwixt Neptune and the Giant Polybot : Not far from the Port du Pyraeum we saw a Temple , considerable only for some certain Statues of Praxitiles his work ; from thence we went to the Pompeon , which is the place where they deposite all the Implements and Utensils belonging to their publick solemnities . Beyond that Gate there is a Tomb adorned with the Statue of a Horsman , by Praxitiles own hand . The old Pyraeum Gate was twice Musquet shot from where the new one stands now . From thence we turned towards the Castle , following a Path on the right hand that led us towards the ruines of the Temple of Jupiter Olympicus . Titus Livius has very elegantly expressed its magnificence in these , Templum unum in terris inchoatum pro magnitudine Dei : The only Temple in the world begun with proportion to the Grandeur of a God. But it was not finished in his days , for the greatness of the design kept it unfinished for above seven hundred years , though several Kings contributed largely to have it finished ; the Emperour Adrian perfected it at last , at the expence of more than nine Millions . It s circumference was about half a mile , and in its whole extent scarce a place but was embellished with some excellent Statue , more valuable for the curiosity of the work , than for the Gold or Ivory which had been prodigally lavished upon them . There was also to be seen the Temple of Saturn and Rhea ; the Grove of Olympia , and a Ditch that has been famous ever since Ducalion's Flood ; for it is from tradition believed that the waters of that deluge were carried off through that , and they fancy it the more credible , because there is Ducalion's Tomb hard by . There is also the house of Morychia , and another of Charmidas , who was a man of a most prodigious memory . Southward of this Temple stood another dedicated to Apollo and called Delphinion ; it was also a Court that took cognizance of , and judged finally in Causes where Murder was evidently committed and confessed , but justified to have been done according to Law. The old Port of Eugeus was hard by , and his Palace not far off : A little lower was the Quarter called Coepi or the Gardens , where there was to be seen a Statue of Venus of Alcamenes his making ; in the opinion of Phidias , the choicest of his work , and esteemed rather a Miracle than a Master-piece , There was likewise a Temple dedicated to Venus Vrania , and by it , another to Euclaea , another to Proserpine , and another to Ceres , which last was called by way of excellence Eleusinion , because the Grand Mysteries of that Goddess were celebrated there , in which only women were assistant , though several of the Ceremonies were very licentious : You may read elsewhere ( if you please ) the Intrigues betwixt Ceres , Baubo , and Bacchus , which made a great part of the representation in that solemnity . One thing is remarkable in the Quarter called Asti , that it is so full of Temples , and Monuments of Piety , that there is scarce room for private Houses : You have something like it in Paris ; from the Palais to Nostre Dame ( which lies as it were in the Arms of the Seine that runs of each side of it ) the Churches are so thick , as almost to touch one another : You may number them at your leisure . To the Eastward of the Temple dedicated to Jupiter Olympicus , there was another dedicated to Lucina , called by the Greeks Elithia , and another to Serapis . The place where Theseus and Pyrithous swore amity , was not far from it . The Street of the Sacred Tripods ran from thence to the Prytaneum , and crossed another place called also the Sacred Tripods , in which there had been a stately Temple of the same name , adorned with the Statue of a Satyr , one of the most excellent of Praxitiles his pieces , is will appear by this following Story . Praxitiles was enamour'd of the incomparable Phryne , who for a long time imployed all her entreaties and caresses to make him tell her which was the best piece he ever had made ; not being able to prevail that way , she got it out of him by an artifice . She corrupted one of his Servants , and obtained of him to come running in to him in a great fright , and surprize Praxitiles with the news , that his Work-house had been on fire , but that only a certain number of his Pictures were burned : In extraordinary discomposure Praxitiles cryed out , Unhappy man that I am , I am utterly ●ndone , if either my Satyr or Cupid be among them . Phryne had her design , to settle his mind , told him it was but a trick of hers , and having taken his Cupid for her self , he dedicated his Satyr to Bacchus . In this Street there was formerly a triangular Market-place , in which there stood a Court or Tribunal , called in those days Trigonon , and at some distance Southward of the Prytaneum there were three other Tribunals that had been anciently very famous . I cannot more properly compare the proximity of these Tribunals than to those in Paris , where you have three soveraign , and several inferiour Courts within the circumference of the Palais . One of these three Courts in Asti was called Heliaea ; which was so much frequented by the Athenians , and had so many Causes pleaded in it , that the other Courts were many times obliged to remove thither : It was an open Court , as is impiyed by the name ; for Heliaea in Greek , is the same that Sub Dio was among the Romans . The second was called Strategion , and was the place where the Archontes sate : and the third was called Thesmothesion , because the six last Archontes presided there , and as I said before , called themselves Thesmothetes . To the Eastward of these Courts we saw the Statues of the ten Eponymes , who were the Ten Heroes that did anciently denominate the several Tribes of the Country of Attica : For the first of the Archontes , that is to say he who presided in the Strategion , called himself Eponyme . Behind the Statue of these ancient Eponymes was a place called Tholus , where the Prytaneis made their solemn Sacrifices , and by it ( passing by the Castle ) we saw the Temple of Mars . The wall of the Castle behind the ground where this Temple stood , was properly that part which they called Cimonion , or the South wall , where formerly was to be seen Medusa's head , and Jupiter's Buckler called Agys . In the Rock beneath it we saw the Vault , where stood the Tripos consecrated to Apollo and Diana : A little farther we saw several other Caverns , into which the poor Shepheards hurry their Flocks upon any alarm or apprehension of the Corsairs landing . Not far from thence were the ruines of the Odeon or Musick School , a magnificent Building formerly , where many eminent Musicians have contended for the Prize that was allowed by that Republick to the most skilful among them : and within a small distance there was anciently a Market-place where they sold Meal , and a Court or Tribunal where many times the Archontes heard Causes . In his Wars with Mithridates , when Syl●● threatned Athens with a Siege ; the seditious Aristion burned all the Wood-work of the Odeon , lest it should commode the Romans in their approaches to the Town ; but it was afterwards repaired by the boun●y of Ariobarzanes King of Cappadocia . At a small distance from thence we passed into the Quarter of Lymnae , considerable for the Famous Temple of Bacchus . In that Quarter we saw a place called Lymnomachiae , where the youth of the City were accustomed to exercise themselves at Wrestling and Fisty-cuffs . We saw another place that was again become a Meadow after a long intermission , having been drained and built with many fair houses . This Meadow was anciently called Lenaeon , and had on one side of it a famous Grove of Poplar-Trees called Aegyron . The Peasants when they brought their Comedies to Athens , began their Recreations there ; and the people of the City made use of the Trees in that Aegyron to build the Scaffolds upon which they placed themselves to behold their rustick representations . In that Meadow we observed a little River and followed it against the stream , in curiosity to know whither it would lead us ; it brought us to the famous Fountain Enneacrunos , called anciently Callirhoe ; it is much fallen from its ancient magnificence . In stead of the cost and new Tyle that Pisistrates bestowed upon it , there is nothing to be seen now in it , buy the green Turf of the Meadow . Being desirous to tast of the Waters , I found them excellent ; and our Germans , contrary to the Genius of their Nation , in spight of the Lepanthe our Janizary had brought in his Flasks , fell as heartily to the Water and were as well pleased with it as my self . But among all these variety of objects , we were sensible there was one still wanting , and casting our Eyes up and down , we discovered behind the Trees , among the Grass , what we sought for , and that was the reliques of the first Theatre in the world . We had no sooner got to it , but Dreslington cryed out in his facetious way , At length we have found it , and are arrived at the illustrious Throne of four great Empresses , Melpomene the Empress of Tragedy ; Thalia of Comedy ; Euterpe of Pastorals , and Calliope of other Verse . The circumference of this Theatre is still visible , and we judged of the magnificence of the whole by the ruines that remained . Most part of the ancient Buildings in Athens or Rome that are either half , or utterly demolished , may one day possibly be repaired , or something built in imitation ; but this excellent piece of Antiquity is of a sort that can never be restored : For though both Princes and People do still retain their old love and inclination to those kind of shows , yet now adays they rather affect and endeavour convenience than magnificence in their Theatres , I hold my self obliged therefore as much as in me lies to preserve the memory of so unimitable a Fabrick , and to pick out of Ancient Authors , and from my own observation of the place , the different parts that composed it , seeing scarce any one of them has given us a particular description : I must be free with you in this , and acknowledge , that if any where , here it is that I expect you should value my observation , and the curiosity of my Travels . Among all the things of which Ancient Authors have treated , the construction of their Theatres is the most obscure and imperfect , and delivered with most contradiction . Vitruvius has left us in the middle , and given us no account of its dimensions , situation , nor number of its principal and constituting parts , presuming I suppose that they had been well enough known , or could never have perished . For example , he does not determine the quantity of the Diazoma or Praecinctiones , which we call Coridors , Retraittes , Paillers , which are several rows of Benches . Besides , in things that he does specifie , he sets down such rules as we find actually were never observed ; as when he tells us of two sorts of heights observed in the building of their stairs , it is manifest that neither the one nor the other have any proportion with what are still remaining of the Ancient Theatres and Amphitheatres . Among our Modern Writers , the Jesuite Gallutius Sabienus , and the learned Scaliger have omitted the most essential parts ; and the unformed mass of Bulengerus his citations , are enough to fright any mans curiosity ; some of them we have consulted our selves , as Atheneus , Hesychius , Pollux , Eustathius , Suidas , and others , but all their light is so weak and imperfect , that had we not viewed the ground , we had been still in the dark : But our curiosity putting it into our minds to take an exact plane of it in Profile , we had opportunity to consider th● real measures and proportions of the parts still visible in Athens , and comparing them with rational presumptions taken out of such Authors as had imparted to us the use of such parts as were absolutely demolished , they supplyed us with probable conjectures of all their dimensions . We made use of Rule , divided according to the common foot among the ancient Athenians , not much differing from that we use now in France , which exceeds the present measure in Athens about eight or nine lines ; so that three of our feet in France , is more than three Athenian feet by above two thumbs breadth ; so then a hundred of their feet answer to about ninety four of ours , and some six inches , resecting the little fractions to avoid cavil in our Calculation ; so that you must remember to judge of all the following measures by the French computation . By this expedient we found with what equity the Ancients called this Edifice Hecatompedon , for we perceived that the semidiameter of our Plane or Ground-plat was forty seven foot and three inches , which made the diameter to arise to a hundred of their feet , and gave it the name of Hecatompedon . By the word Theatre , the Ancients intended the whole building where the People Assembled to see any of their publick representations . The famous Architect Philo built this in the time of Pericles , above two thousand years since ; and Philos design was followed by Ariobarzanes King of Cappadocia , who repaired it the first time , as the Emperour Adrian did afterwards . It consisted without , of three rows of Portico's o● Galleries , one above the other , and within there were two principal places , one for the Spectators , and the other for the Spectacle themselves . The parts designed for the Spectators were the Conistra or Pit , the rows of Benches called the Diazoma , the little stairs , the Circys , and the Echea ; the parts appropriated to the Actors were the Orchestra , the Hyposcenion , the Logeon or Thimele , the Proscenion , the Parascenion , and the Scene . To take a Plane of this Edisice , a circle was drawn whose semidiameter consisted of forty seven foot and three inches : Having made our Circle , we retrench'd a fourth part , and drew a line of ninety degrees , which line determined the front of the Scene , that is to say , the front or face of the Decorations , for properly the word Scene imports nothing else . The small part of the diameter , which the line of ninety degrees had cut behind the Scene was about fourteen foot ; and about eighteen foot from the said Line towards the centre of the Circle , a Line was drawn parallel with the face or front of the Proscenion , ( for ( as I said before ) so it is that they call an elevation or plat-form that was peculiar to the Comedians ) so that the breadth and depth of that place was eighteen foot compleat ; and the face or front of the Proscenion retrenching one hundred forty two degrees and forty six minutes of the circumference of the Circle , the remainder , that is to say , two hundred and seventeen degrees and fourteen minutes was the full circumference of the inward part of the Theatre ; so that the draught was more than a semicircle , contrary to the general Opinion that it was a perfect Hemicycle . The bottom or lower part of this circumference they called Conistra , or the Pit ; the Romans called it Arena . In Athens the Orchestra took up some part of the Conistra , insomuch that some have mistaken a part for the whole , and called it all Orchestra : This corruption , or promiscuous use of words proceeded especially from the Romans ; and it is remarkable , that though the Roman Theatres had almost the same parts with the Athenian , and those parts had almost the same names ; yet there was great difference betwixt their proportions , situations and uses : But it is our Province to describe the Greek Theatres , and to meddle no farther with the Roman . The inward building of the Threatre ran along like the arch of a Circle to the two corners of the Proscenion ; and in that part of the circumference were erected four and twenty rows of seats or benches which went round the Conistra or Pit , and were intended for Spectators : These benches were distinguished , eight and eight , by three Coridor's or passages ▪ which the Athenians called Diazoma ; they were of the same figure with the rows of seats , and were contrived for the passage of the Spectators from one story to another , without incommoding those who were placed before ; and for the same convenience there were little stairs that passed from one Coridor to another cross the several rows ; and not far from those stairs there were doors by which the people entred from the Galleries on the outside , and took their places as they thought fit . The best places were reckoned upon the eight ranks betwixt the eight and the seventeenth , and that space was it which they called Bouleuticon , designed for the particular Offices of Justice : The other rows were called Ephebicon , and were proper to the Citizens after they were eighteen years of age . The height of each of these rows of benches was about thirteen inches , their breath about two and twenty ; but the lowest bench was near four foot high from the level of the floor : each step of the stairs was but half the height of the benches , and as their height was but half , so was their breadth . The height and breadth of the Coridor's or passages was double the height and breadth of the benches ; but the stairs were not parallel , for the spaces betwixt them grew sharper as they came near the Pit , and ended in the figure of a wedge , from whence by the Romans they were called Cunei ; and to prevent the falling down of the rain upon those steps , there were certain pent-houses set up to carry off the water . Along the Coridors at convenient distance in the thickness of the wall were certain holes , in which were placed little vessels or kettles of brass open towards the Scene , and with little holes for an use that I shall mention by and by . These holes or cells were called by the Athenians Echaea . Above the upper Coridor there was a Gallery called Cercys , where their Women were placed ; but those who were infamous or irregular in their lives , had another place by themselves . In this Cercys they placed likewise such Strangers and Allies as were free of that City ; for none could be admitted there but such as had their freedom . There were other place● proper to particular persons , and those places descended by succession to the eldes● of the Family . This Theatre was not so capacious a● that which was built in Rome by Marc●● Scaurus the Edilis ; for in that there was room for seventy nine thousand persons ; a good Geometrician will easily compute the number of persons that this would hold , and he who desires it may take the pains to inform himself : there was a foot and half allowed for every mans place ; and this we may conclude , that the people assembling there many times to regulate disorders in the State , there must be room at least for six thousand men ; for by the Attick Laws there were of necessity to be six thousand suffrages to make a decree of the people authentick . Thus much for the place appointed for the Spectators . As to that which was designed for the Actors , the Orchestra ( being an elevation out of the Conistra or Pit ) began about fifty four foot from the front of the Proscenion or Post of the Comedians , and ended at the Proscenion . The height of the Orchestra was about four foot from the ground : Its figure was a long square divided from the seats of the Spectators : In certain places of this Orchestra were the Musick , the Chorus , and the Mimicks conveniently disposed : Among the Romans it was put to a more honourable use , for the Emperour , the Senate , and the Vestals had their places upon it . Upon the flat of the Orchestra at Athens towards the place of the Comedians , was another elevation or plat-form called Logeon or Thimele , which among the Romans was called Pulpitum ; from the Conistra or Pit this Logeon was raised about nine foot , and five from the Orchestra ; the figure of the Logeon was square , and had four and twenty foot of a side : there it was the Mimicks practised their Interludes , and the Chorus made their Recitations . At the foot of the Logeon upon the Orchestra was a row of Pillars incompassing a place called the Hyposcenion , and this was a part of the Greek Theatres that Modern Writers have not well understood ; some have confounded it with the Podion , or place within the Ballisters , betwixt the Proscenion and the Scene in the Roman Theatres : But that Opinion is manifestly absurd , from the difference both of their uses and situation : I will make it more clear to you if ever I return to Rome , from whence I design you a description of the Theatre of Marcellus ; others will have the Hyposcenion to be the forepart of the Proscenion contained in the space betwixt the floor of the Orchestra , and the flat of the Proscenion , but I shall confute that fancy hereafter . The Hyposcenion therefore was a place upon the Orchestra for the convenient repose of the Musick , and persons belonging to the Logeon ; for the Chorus and Mimicks kept still in the Hyposcenion till their parts in the representation obliged them to ascend into the Logeon . The Poets themselves sate likewise in the Hyposcenion , and what I say , is justified by Atheneus , when he tells us that Asopodorus Philiasius derided the unjust acclamations of the people , among whom all things are many times applauded ; for he observes , that Asopodorus being in the Hyposcenion , and hearing the obstreperous approbation that was given to a player upon a Flute , What is this for ? cryed he , my life for it , it is some new sotticism that they are taken with ; from whence it is plain , it passed not for a front or outside , but for a certain place where Asopodorus had placed himself , either to sit out the whole Play , or perhaps only in his passage to some other place , which indeed it probably implyed , for his words are , being already in the Hyposcenion . The compass of the Hyposcenion was the same with the Logeon ; its breadth was about six or seven foot : but to be short , the Logeon , the Hyposcenion , the Orchestra , and the Conistra are four distinct places which many persons have by mistake comprised under the word Orchestra , as the following places have been signified under the name of the Scene . The Proscenion or place for the Actors was raised two feet above the Logeon , seven foot above the Orchestra , and eleven above the Pit ; and it is not to be imagined so great an Architect as Philo would without reason have given such different heights to all those different places ; besides thei● being seen , he contrived those places so , that the sound of the Musick , and the melody of their Voices might be conveyed with more advantage , and more equal distribution to the ears of the People , according to the different elevations and degree● in which they had placed themselves : Upon the Proscenion there was an Altar , called by the Athenians Agyeus , and dedicated to Apollo . The Scene , as we observed before , wa● nothing but the Columns and Ornament● in Architecture raised from the foundation ▪ and upon the sides of the Proscenion , fo● its beauty and decoration . When ther● were three rows of Pillars one above another , the highest row was called Episcenion . Agatarchus was the first Architect wh● found out the way of adorning Scenes by the Rules of Perspective , and Eschilus assisted him . Parascenion was a general word for the whole space before and behind the Scene , and the same name was given to all the avenues , and passages from the Musick-room , to the place where the Actors kept . And thus by the word Scena they confounded the Parascenion and the Scene . The Athenians oftentimes made use of Machines , the principal of which was called Theologeon ; it was generally in the air , and brought in the Gods when the Poets thought fit to introduce them : For that reason it is , that among the Learned Ancients they are so much decryed , being ( as they believed ) of no other use but to relieve the sterility of the Poet , whose brains growing muddy , and unable by natural or ingenious extrication , to clear himself of some indecorum or perplexity in his plot , brings himself off in a moment by bringing in one of the Gods upon a Theologian , who by his pure authority , and an unseasonable and ridiculous contrivance , in a moment , from some remote place brings a man home to his own Country ; restores a man to health who had been sick , or rescues some body from the calamities of a Prison ; a fancy so insufferably idle , that the Athenians have in raillerie turned it to a Proverb , and when they see a man at a non-plus , and ignorant what to do , they cry out in derision , Apo Micanis , as the Criticks in Rome upon the same occasion were wont to say , Deus è Machina ; Now for a God from a Machine . Nevertheless , we are not to believe the Comedies of the Ancients were altogether so profane as some would represent them ; for when their Gods came forth in the Theologeon , Tully tells us , Ex ea ( Machina ) Dii effata saepe fabantur , homines ad virtutem excitabant , à vitio deterrebant : From thence the Gods did many times deliver their Precepts , exciting men to Virtue , and deterring them from Vice. The outward building was of Marble , and consisted of three Porticoes or Galleries one above another , of which the highest was called Cercys . Were I not tired with calculating already , I would have sent you the exact models and dimensions of them all . This Theatre was open at top . The Theatre of Regilla not far from the Temple of Theseus was covered magnificently , and had a fair roof of Cedar . The Odeon or Theatre for Musick was covered likewise , and Plutarch will tell you it was that which gave occasion to the Poet Cratinus to droll ●o ingeniously upon Pericles , who had taken the care of it . In the Theatre of Bacchus there was no covering but over the Proscenion and Cercys , and therefore the Athenians being exposed to the injuries of the weather , came usually with great cloaks thrown over to secure them from the rain and the cold ; and to defend against the Sun , they had the Sciadion in fashion of our Parosols , which the Romans used also ● their Theatres by the name of Vmbrellae ; ●ereupon when any sudden storm arose , ●he Play was interrupted , and the specta●ors dispered ; some sheltered themselves in the outward Galleries ; some in the Por●ico of Eumenicus that joyned to the Thea●re ; but in the Temple of Bacchus ( though ●ear enough ) no protection could be had , ●ecause it was opened but once a year ; ne●ertheless in fair weather their Comedies ●ere extraordinarily magnificent , and in●iched and recommended to the people by ● thousand Artifices , as exhalation of o●ours all over the Theatre ; diffusion of li●uors in little odoriferous showers upon the ●eads of the People ; the uppermost Cori●or , and the Cercys being adorned with ●ultitudes of Statues , which being hollow , ●nd full of concealed Pipes , squirted or shower'd down Rose-water , and other sweets among the People , thereby tempering and moderating the excessive heat of so numerous an assembly . Their Plays were acted alwayes by day-light . When Lentulus Spinter had covered the Roman Theatres with Tile , they played now and then in the night . The priviledge of entring into the Theatre o● Bacchus cost each Citizen at least two Oboli● sometimes three : An Obolus with them ▪ was about as much as a Son Marque o● French Money ; which payments were lai● out wholly upon repairs ; for all the apparatus , and pompous preparation of clothes and other ornaments , was provided by persons of quality who exhibited the Play ▪ At the Creation of the Archontes ther● were five or six several Comedies acted publickly , in which the emulation of the competitors was sometimes so great , that in ● contest for the prize of Poetry and Musick Alexis and Cleodemus died upon the spo●● with meer transport and rapture for th● applauses of the People , and the Prizes the● had won : But favour and faction did man● times rob the Victors of their just Prize● w ch was the occasion of Menander's sarcas● who , finding himself wronged , and the Po●● Philemon triumphing unjustly upon him b● the corrupt and debauched suffrage of the people , came to Philemon in the midst of his acclamations , and whispering in his Ear , asked him , whether he was not ashamed of his Victory ? This Menander was a famous Poet , had made a hundred and five Comedies , but never gained the Prize but for eight : Euripides was another who had made sixty Comedies , and fifteen Tragedies , yet never came off Conquerour but in five . Thus have I given you a description of the Theatre of Leneon or Bacchus , which Theatre was imployed not only for their publick Plays , and spectacles , and assemblies of State ; but sometimes as Schools for the eminent Philosophers to read in to their Disciples ; nor were Theatres so much decryed in the Primitive times as some would perswade us : The Doctrine of Christianity was originally taught there ; Cajus and Aristarchus were carried forcibly out of the Theatre at Ephesus as they were expounding the Gospel ; and St. Paul was intreated by his Disciples not to hazard himself there for fear of the like violence . Before I had seen and considered this Fabrick in Athens , I could not believe that the excellence and curiosity of Architecture , was to be shown only upon a Theatre : It was not enough for Philo , like an admirable Architect , to regard the just symmetry and proportion of parts , and to make one side and the other , the upper and lower part of the Building suitable and concurrent ; but as well as in Architecture , he shew'd great judgment both in Musick and Physick , and indeed there was a kind of necessity for it ; for the Voice being like to be lost in an open and spacious place , where the Walls , though of Marble , at that distance could give little or no repercussion to make it audible to the People , Philo contrived those Cells or Holes in the thickness of the Coridors , and in those Cells he placed the Brass Vessels that I mentioned before , each of which Kettles was supported by a wedge of Iron , and placed in their several , so as not to touch the Wall , that the voice proceeding from the mouth of the Actor as from a Center , and being carried circularly to the Coridors , might strike upon the concavity of those Vessels , and from them be reverberated with more clearness and force : But the Musick in the Hyposcenion had more advantage ; for the Brass Vessels being disposed Mathematically , and at a distance that agreed exactly with the intervals and modulation of the Musick , every Note was sustained and reinforced by repercussion from those Vessels placed there methodically on purpose ; their number in all were twenty eight . To his care for improving the harmony to the people , he added his care for their healths ; for carrying always in all his Buildings great regard to that where-ever he lodged or disposed them , he thought it no improper reflexion to consider that without some smattering in Physick ( to understand how the Weather and the Sun affected mens bodies ) it would be impossible but the pleasure and transport at those spectacles , impetuously agitating the spirits of the spectators , must needs cause an alteration in their healths , against which he provided very well by a judicious placing of the Windows and Columns , and by a learned Oeconomy and disposition of the Winds and Sun , which were admitted or rejected as he pleased : but his chiefest regard was to the Westerly Wind , which was received with great care for a particular efficacy it has in carrying things far , and distinctly to the Ear : But this Wind being commonly infested with Vapours , it was his Master-piece to turn the Lights of the Galleries with such exactness , that the in●temperance of that Wind might produce no rheums nor defluxions among the people . The Scene looked out upon the Castle Hill , and had the Cynosarges behind it ; the Musaeon was on the right hand of it , and the Caussey to Pyraeum on the left . At this day there is nothing remaining of Eumenicus his Portico , which consisted formerly of a double Gallery divided by certain rows of Pillars . The Floor of this Portico was raised a good distance from the ground , so that from the Street they ascended to it by Stairs : It was of a long square Figure , embellished with green Palisado's ▪ to please the eyes of those who walked i● it . Here it was that their repetitions were made and prepared for the Theatre , a● their Musick and Symphony was in th● Odeon . And here we could not but wish that i● our Countries we had such a Portico as thi● of Eumenicus , not only to regulate ou● Theatres in point of Architecture , and reduce them to the Athenian Model ; bu● even for reformation of our customs , b● subjecting our Poets to the rigour of th● Laws , or at least condemning them to s●lence , who by profane and scandalous gestures or jests , do make a mockery of Religion , wound the modesty of the auditor● and deprave and debauch the manners of all that are present . Having examined the Theatre of Bacchus , we proceeded to the Fountain Enneacrunos , where our Flasks of Lepanthe proved as necessary as delicious : From thence we passed into the Quarter of Asti , to trace out the School of Epicurus ; for as to his House Laertius tells us it was in the Quarter of Melita , not far from the School of Themistocles . And here I must tell you , that neither History nor tradition could give us the least light where it stood ; only it is agreed by common consent it was in a Garden belonging to the old Town . Pliny assures us that Epicurus was the first that ever made a Garden within the Walls of that City , and that he did it for the convenience of his School . The Sect of Epicuraeans , though generally exploded , have notwithstanding found certain reasons to excuse or palliate their doctrine ; for though their principal proposition is , That pleasure is the chiefest good ; yet his Disciples will tell you that you must not be frighted at words , but search deeper into the merits of the Cause , and then you will find that pleasure is the chiefest good , but that that pleasure consists only in being virtuous : But however his Enemies have disparaged and reproached his Doctrine , it is certain many illustrious persons among the ancient Romans have followed it , as Julius Caesar , Cassius , Mecenas ; and it is remarkable that Seneca in his Morals was never so plausible or acute , as when he began with some grave sentence out of Epicurus . We continued our walk and visited the Quarter of Diomea , where there was formerly a Tribunal or Court consisting of sixty Judges , as also a Temple dedicated to Jupiter , and called the Diomean . The ancient Diomean Gate was at the foot of the Hill Cynosarges , which we ascended by degrees , and had the prospect of several ruines . Upon the top of this Hill it was the Cynick Philosophers kept their School : From the top of this Hill we surveyed the whole Quarter of Asti , which put us in mind of a story of Diogenes the Cynick . The Athenians upbraiding his poverty , and interrogating him about his House , because he had none to live in , he replied , That they themselves had provided him with variety of noble Buildings , showing them the magnificent Cloisters in the Temple of Jupiter Olympicus , and the Palace of Polition : We could easily discern the foundation of this Temple , and I mention it only to advertise you of the errors of several Travellers in their description of its situation . Upon this Cynosarge it was , that illegitimate and spurious Children were exposed , and a Gymnasion or place of Exercise erected for them ; for the Children of Freemen , and Strangers , the Athenians confounding them all together . Plutarch will tell you with what subtilty and address Themistocles extinguished the distinctions of Birth and Quality in that place . There was also a Temple consecrated to Hercules , who , though the Son of an Adulteress , was adored and invoked on that account . Not far from the said Temple , was a Court to which any Bastard that had suspicion of his Father , might cite him , and constrain him ( if he could prove it ) to own him . If you will believe the Athenians , it was an Advocate or Lawyer in this Court who was the occasion of that smart wipe that Diogenes gave the Lawyers and Physicians of his time : For a great contest hapning in the presence of Diogenes betwixt an Advocate and a Physician about places ; it being referred to his arbitration , he decided it in his manner , Praecedat Fur , sequatur Carnif●x . Let the Thief go before , and the Hangman follow . Not far from this Court we saw several Altars consecrated , some to Hercules , some to his Mother Alcmene , some to his Wife Hebe , and some to his friend Iolaus who was a partner in his Victory over the Hydra . Eastward of this Hill we saw several Tombs , among the rest , the Tomb of Isocrates the Orator , and the Lacedemonian Anchimolus , of whose combate and death you may read in Herodotus . The Quarter of Alopece is at no great distance , in which Socrates and Aristides were born : There is now a large but dry Canal where the Waters of the Ilissus did formerly discharge themselves for the communication betwixt the City and Sea ; in so much that Vessels came up to the very foot of the Musaeon . There is likewise a Grove of Olive-Trees that runs along half way to Porto-Lione ; and on the other side it extends it self from North to South , makes a kind of a Semicircle , and is a great Ornament to the Town . Descending from the Cynosarge , by that part where the old Monuments were to be seen , we found ( upon the declension ) where the Ereae stood formerly , or the Gate of Sepulchers ; from whence steering back again to the Town , we left the Theatre of Bacchus on our left hand , and passed by the Tomb of Talus , an excellent Artist , who invented the Saw , and Passer , and several other Instruments . Not far from this Tomb we viewed the Temple of Aesculapius , and within its Walls the Fountain of Hallirrothius , Neptune's Son , slain by Mars in that place . Antiquity believed that there was a subterraneous passage from this Fountain to Phalerum , through which such things as were thrown into the said Fountain , were convey'd underground to Phalerum . In our way from thence to the Castle we saw the Temple of Themis , and hard by it the Tomb of the beautiful Hippolytus the Son of Theseus , by the Amazon Hippolyta ; The same Hippolytus that was so much in love with Phaedra . Towards the Castle , we saw likewise the Temple of Ceres , sirnam'd the Courotrophos ; but now it is called the Temple of the Goddess Terra . Passing betwixt the Castle Hill and Trajan's Arch ; that little interval was remarkable for the Temple of Perdrix Sister to Daedalus ; as likewise for the Temple of the Eumenides or Erymnes , or infernal Furies . The Fountain Panopis was anciently there , but now it is dried up , and not far from it was the ancient Gate called Diocharis , but we left that on our right hand , as we did the Areopagus , and the Gate Ithonia . The Palladion ( a Court consisting of a hundred Judges called Ephetes , half of Athens , and half of Argos ) was a little lower in the way to Phalerum . When we had reposed our selves a little at our Lodgings , as our custom was we fell to our Memoirs , and set down what we had observed . The next day we reviewed with more curiosity and application what we had but run over the day before ; copying several ancient Inscriptions ; taking draughts of the Temples and most remarkable pieces of Architecture ; searching for Meddals ; discovering the most honourable of the Vecchiados ; regaling our Equipage who came to see us ; and making our Visits to the Sardar and Cadi just then returned to Athens . I tell you our business , and you may easily judge how we were pleased : I do assure you we passed our time very merrily , having nothing but good Cheer and good Company to molest us : and as I have told you the virtues , so I must tell you the vanity of some of our people ( and it is common among strangers ) nothing could serve the turn , but the Marble and Brass must mention them hereafter in Athens , whereupon several of them writ their names upon the most conspicuous Pillars , for want of tools to ingrave them ; and in revenge for my laughing at them , they writ mine in two or three Languages , and two or three different terminations . In the evening on Saturday the 20. of May , when we thought nothing of Osman Chelebi , we saw him brought into our house by our Janizary , to whom the other Turks had applyed themselves to know what he was . Never was surprize so acceptable , we ran all of us to embrace him . He told us he was going for Candia in a Saique that unladed certain Goods at Parto Lione , where he hoped to embarque again next morning , and find a company of brave Turkish Officers that he had left there . I was the man of our whole Gang who made him the least Caresses , being taken with a sudden desire to go along with him to Candia , and take a view of that famous Camp which is not at all understood in Christendom , though the condition of the Town be very well known . I took Osman aside , and desired I might go along with him as his slave ; at first he was averse , pretending it was unsafe for us both in respect of the small acquaintance he had in the Turkish Army , being uncertain whether he should find any of his old Camerades that were with him in Hungary , and if not , the least suspicion would be dangerous to us both . But I was prepared against those objections , and asked him what it was he could apprehend at Athens where his person and design was utterly unknown , and if there were no danger there , there was less in the Camp , from whence Slaves and Renegades came and went securely every day , who in regard of their carriage and language were more suspicious than I. With these and some other Reasons he was satisfied , and assisted me with a contrivance much better than I could devise for my self : He had left at Porto Lione a Turkis● Officer , who was a suitor to one of Mustapha Bey's Daughters , and looked upon him as his Brother in Law already . Upon the score of the intimacy betwixt them , Osman did not question but he would do me all possible kindness , and undertake to secure me in my Voyage . This Officer was called Amurat Aga , a person who had about two months before been sent from the Camp upon business of importance that required his speedy return . I was much pleased with the expedient , and conjuring their secresie , acquainted my companions with my design . My Companions were troubled to lose me , and the more , because I was their principal Interpreter . They askt me how I could leave Athens at time when they were proceeding to such excellent discoveries ; but I answered them as Isocrates did those of old , who demanded if there was any Town in the World so pleasant as Athens : Isocrates intimating , that their entertainments were pleasing indeed , but not solid enough to detain a man long , replyed very facetiously , That Athens was fitter for Courtship than Marriage ; melior Meretrix quam Vxor . So Osman and I getting up betimes , I took my leave of my Camerades , and having given them hopes of seeing them shortly again , and setled our Correspondencies at Emporion , Zeithon , Volo , and particularly at Larissa , embracing with great kindness , we parted . Taking my leave of Athens thus abruptly , I could do no more than send you this Description , which I hope you will not think altogether unexact ; for doubtless those things which escaped our curiosity , may have the same success with those who come after us : however they will do very well if they can discover where those Antiquities stood that we over-passed , particularly the Phorbantheon or Temple dedicated to Phorbas ; the Eacontheon or Temple of Eacus ; the Temple of the Charltes ; the Temples of Celeus , and his Wife Metanira ; the Temples of Leena , Lamia , Pherea or Hecate ; of Burychius , Adimanthe , and Oxythemis : We shall be beholding to them , as the Town now lies , if they can inform us of those sacred Vallies so obvious among ancient Authors . We must ingenuously confess we could find nothing of them , nor of the three hundred and sixty houses , called Leschae , where the poorer sort of Athenians were provided for by the publick ; those Authors having given us no light where they stood : Nor can we be so audacious , as to prescribe the precise place of the Ceramicus , where the Plane-tree stood , to which they fastned their sentences against Women that were seen dirty or undressed in the street ; for in such cases every such Woman was condemned in a penalty of a thousand drachmes , and the condemnation with the name of the Woman transgressing in that manner , affixed to the said tree : Their thousand drachmes amounted to about three hundred seventy five Livers French. A true and faithful discovery of these places , would ( I confess ) be a great curiosity , and very grateful to all people that are inquisitive . And now let me intreat you not to be dissatisfied if you find not my Plat-form answerable to Hilduinus his description of Athens , which description being taken up wholly upon trust , and upon the credit of one Aristarchus , is certainly the lamest and most imperfect I ever saw ; for abating the came of Athens , and the Areopagus , the rest , by general consent , and the present condition of the ground , is utterly false . I have been so curious as to make a Critical Selection of the faults in it , which shall be sent you when you please . ATHENS Ancient and Modern : WITH A DESCRIPTION OF THE PRESENT STATE OF THE EMPIRE OF THE TURKS . Book IV. ON Sunday the 5 th . of May early in the Morning , Osman Chelebi and my self departed from Athens , and in the mid-way betwixt that and Porto-Lione we overtook Father Simon marching upon the same design , but he being on foot and we on horse-back , we quickly left him behind . His business was to go on board a Genoa Vessel that was then in the Harbour , and take care of the Consciences of its Crew ; for when ever any Christian Vessel puts into that Harbour , it is incumbent upon the Capuchins ( in respect of their Mission ) to look after them , there being alwayes some or other sick , and in need of their Ministery , even in Protestant Ships . About a quarter of a league farther we met a poor miserable French Man , a Burgundian , who had been a Drummer in Candia , and running away , got off into the Turks Camp , from whence they conveyed him to Napoli di Romania : Being arrived there , he turned Renegade , took the name of Maherem , married , and at last , by consent of his Wife , ( who cared but little for him though she had had a young Turk by him ) removed his quarters , came to Athens , and entred himself into the service of the Consul Chastagner . Every person that runs from Candia to the Turks Camp , has a Crown of the Grand Visier , and a good Pass-port whether he see him or not ; but if admitted into his presence they are sure of ten or twelve Crowns , a Pass-port , and a good Vest into the bargain ; commonly they are transported to Morea , where the Christian Consuls and Vice Consuls are obliged by the Cadi's to take care of their passage into their own Countries , but for the most part they leave their Religion , as well as the Town ; our Janizary shew'd us five or six of them at Athens , who were going to Larissa : One of them was an Italian , a witty man , and his name Francesco Bernardino . His whole ●istory would be troublesom to tell ; He expressed great sense of his fault , and I am ●● hopes he may return ; however , he told ●e many particularities of the Siege . Being within Musket shot of our Inn in Porto-Lione , Amurat Aga being walking with other Turkish Officers , having spied ●sman , came running to meet him : Os●an presented me to him very civilly , told ●im that I had belonged formerly to Musta●ha Bey , and lived some time at Emporion ; ●hat at present my Relation was to a Tur●ish Officer in Candia , to whom I was re●iring , and that being a person of some ●erit , he desired him to take care of my ●rotection , if there should be need of it in ●y Voyage ; and Amurat promised it as ●enerously . I went directly on board the Saique that was to carry us to Candia , ( for fear I should meet upon the shore any of the Genoeses of my acquaintance ) and about ten or eleven of the clock , with a favourable N. W. wind we set sail , and in two hours time we getting sight of the Cape de Colonnes , in a short time we left it to the N. E. A Saique is a Greek Vessel , with a Main mast twice as high as other Ships , whic● makes them discovered much farther ; whe● they are in apprehension of the Corsairs they furle their sails , to keep themselve● from being descried . Their manner o● building , and the height of their Mast hi●ders them from sailing with a side-wind , b● with a full wind it is impossible to reac● them . We were chased by a small Christian Ve●sel within sight of St. George d' Arbora . W● had on board twenty Turkish Officers ● more , all of them in appearance very read to defend themselves , but none so muc● ( in my fancy ) as an old black Eunuch th● belonged to Fateima Kadun , Mother ● the Vizir Azem or Grand Vizir ; the E●nuch was returning to Fateima in Candi● where that Masculine Lady was assisting h●● Son with a care and activity above both h●● Age and her Sex. All the Passengers pa●● great respect to this Eunuch , and knowi●● well of what moment the countenance and protection of such great persons are , and of what importance their character of an Officers Conduct ; seeing him so brave and couragious , they all of them put on a good face , but more out of complaisance and design upon him , than any natural valour . He called them together , spake to them with his Sword naked in his hand , and his Military Oration was a Prayer : Muselmen ( said he ) This is the day of Gods infinite Mercies , he who is Lord both of our Alcoran ●nd Time : Blessed be his Omnipotent Majesty : Who knows but we may this day be Martyrs ? Methinks his Divine Majesty has opened the eyes of his Slave , and I see five thousand Angels drawn out and ready for the relief of every Muselman that fights couragiously against those Infidel Christians : Blessed be that holy Light ; may his Mercy , his Arms , and the Gates of Paradise be open to the Soul of every Muselman that dies in this Combat . Let us not put off the preparation of our souls , till we be mortally wounded ; and yet of this we may be certain that none of us can fall , till God Almighty has determined our days . Let us fight then couragiously for the Glory of the High God! Let us cast our selves , and repose wholly upon the strength of his Arm : It is he that must strengthen , 't is he that must inspire us ; and doubtless had not be sided with us in this War with the Christians , we could never have conquered so many Provinces , nor saved so many millions of Souls . Their Officers are full of such sort of sentences taken out of their Azoares , which is as much as to say , the Chapters of their Alchoran . When his Speech was done , they all embraced , promised amendment of their Lives ; and an Officer of the Topigi Bassi , or Grand Master of the Artillery , who had had formerly some quarrel with Amurat-Aga , came to him , asked his forgiveness , and reconciled himself so effectually , that ever since they have been the best , and most sincere friends in the world : But all their Devotions were lost , for the Christian being an ill sailer , and finding himself unable to come up with us , gave us over , and tacked about towards the Archipelago . A French Renegade of Provence , that was aboard us , told us , the Christians were gone to double the Cape de Grip , which it seems is a phrase among the Christian Privateers , and implys that they are Pirates , and in pursute of their Calling . One thing I was much amazed at in our great Officer of the Artillery ; before we were chased by the Christian Privateers , all his discourse was of the use and execution of Canon , how excellently he could manage them at Sea , and hit his mark in spite of the tossing and agitation of the waters ; yet when it came to the Test , he had not wit enough to open a Port-hole : and certainly the Turks are the worst Canoniers in the world , and the most unfit to manage a Sea-fight : You may judge then to what purpose our valour would have been . We had in our Saique a young Turk not above three years old , carrying by his Father into Candia , to beg a boon of the Grand Vizir ; the Eunuch , upon appearance of the Christian Corsaire , put a little bow in his hand , and set him upon the Decks to threaten the Christian , incouraging him as soon as they came within distance to call them Giaours , ( as well as he could ) by way of provocation and defiance . Nor is it a new thing to see younger Soldiers than he in the Turkish Armies ; a Child , of what age so ever , is no sooner possessed of a Ziamet , or a Timar upon the death of his Father , but in ostentation and complement to the Grand Signior he is carried to the Wars : I saw one of them in Hungary carried upon a Camel in a Pannier , and a Goat along with him , to supply the young Janizary with milk ; and the Grand Vizer many times diverted himself with him . The Ziamets and Timars are certain pieces of ground that the victorious Turks have taken from the Clergy and Nobility in the Countrys that they have conquered , which Lands being confiscated , are given by the Grand Signior for the maintenance of some Zaim or Timariot ; Zaim or Timariot being the Title of the Man , and Ziamet or Timar the appellation of the ground : The difference betwixt a Ziamet and a Timar is only in the quantity of Acres , and the value of them ; for a Ziamet is seldom worth less than twenty-thousand Aspers per Annum , if it be under it is called a Timar : Twenty thousand Aspers are worth about seventeen hundred Lievers French Money , both of which may be transferred by the consent of the Beglerby , or Governour-General of the Province ; but if they be of more than ordinary value , and lye upon the Frontiers , they belong to the Grand Vizer , and cannot be transferred but by his approbation . The young Soldier that was with us in the Saique , went to Candia to solicite for preferment , which he was very like to obtain , having had his Father and two Brothers slain in the Service . I was much confounded at our first coming on board to find that Osman Chelebi gave out underhand that he was going to Candia to beg the same Ziamet from that young Child ; every body blamed his design , and I , who had alwayes an Opinion of his Prudence , thought him indiscreet in that , as believing the Grand Vizer a person of too much Justice and Consideration to give it away from a person whose Relations had purchased it so dearly : But Osman told me privately his design was upon another Ziamet that was vacant ; of which having secret notice , he thought fit to publish his pretences to the other , to prevent solicitations for that . It is not to be imagined with what industry and cunning the Turks do pursue those kind of preferments . Only the Janizaries are excepted , as being uncapable of that sort of preferment . One would have thought those persons who design upon Benefices in France have learned from the Ziams and Timariots to keep their scouts in the Country to give them private advertisement of Vacancies . In Candia the Spahi's ( who are in some favour with the Grand signior ) are very diligent in informing themselves of the number of Zaims and Timariots actually in service , and have alwayes their spies in ambushcade upon any desperate service to give them Lists of the slain , that they may imploy all their interests to succeed them . In our passage I understood many Intrigues both of the Ottoman Court and the Army ; for though the Turks are not very talkative , and the presence of the Eunuch made them careful what they said ; yet the Renegado of Provence being displeased at their reservedness , and not yet come up to the closeness and mortification of the Turks ; caused them to talk in spight of their teeths . He was come lately from Larissa , and some of them were very inquisitive about Affairs of the Court ; for my own part I spake very little , as fearing I might be suspected , but I put Osman Chelebi upon asking him several questions that gave me great satisfaction . About the height of Cerigo ( which we left sixteen or eighteen Leagues to the West ) we met a Saique that came on board us : She had been at Canea with Victuals , and being upon her return , gave us notice that the Turks expected that Town would be suddenly besieged , all the Christian Fleets being united in order to that design . Those Turks who were most concerned in the occurrences of the War , arguing among themselves about the preparation of the Christians , could not imagine they would attempt the Vizer in his Camp with a less Army than 50000 Men : of which number all their Auxiliary Troops coming much short , they concluded the design of the Christians would be rather to give the Candians some diversion by besieging Rhodes or Canea . And indeed to besiege Canea would have been in effect to have besieged the Besiegers , and force the Vizer to remove lest he should be shut up in the Island ; for the Conquest of that Town would have cut off his communication with Morea , and intercepted his supplies . But 't is a private Maxim among the Venetians , not to be long obstinate in a War : They will have Peace ( when they see their time ) at any rate , and accordingly they dispose of their relief . We believed therefore ( upon this Saiques intelligence ) that before we should get there , Canea would be blocked up ; whereupon we stood off as far as we could , steering our Course to the S. E. to put in at Fraskia which lies to the Southward of Cape Sansona about nine or ten Leagues from the City of Candia . Being got within five Leagues of Fraskia , we discovered the Mountains covered with Snow , and particularly the Mount S. Paul. Not long after we perceived the famous Mountain of Jupiter that is hard by Candie . We passed betwixt the Isles of Pelagia and Standia , which lie N. E. and S. W. one of another : at length , the 8. of May , we came to an Anchor in Fraskia , one of the best places in all Candia for shelter and anchoring : at present there is very good Water , and formerly there was store of Wood , but the Siege has exhausted it : 'T is a Port very commodious for the Turks , but yet much infested by the Venetians , who are for the most part Cruising on that side , because though on the other side Policastro be nearer Candia , yet there is no anchoring but for small Vessels . From Porto-Lione , or if you will , from Athens to Candia , is much the same distance as from Brest to Haver de Grace , or from Marseille to Ligorn , that is to say about 90 Leagues . It is observable that the stream run● strongly upon the North Coast of that Island , and is caused by the violence of the Current out of the Archipelago . This Isle of Candia is that which formerly was called Crete , famous for the nativity of Jupiter , whose Sepulchre is to be seen there at this day , but I must confess I did not see it . The Paganism and Piracy of this Island , have rendered the Inhabitants equally famous , and Minos their King was the first who made them considerable at Sea. It is situate betwixt 34 and 35 degrees of Latitude ; I did not trouble my self to examine its position by my Instruments ; and besides , Osman Chelebi had advised me not to discover the least skill in Mathematicks , for fear I might be taken for an Engineer or a spie . On the North-side it looks towards the Isles of the Archipelago ; on the East toward Cyprus ; on the South toward the Country of Barca ; and on the West towards Sicily . 'T is something larger than Cyprus , but lesser than Sicily : Its length from E. to W. that is to say , from Cape Solomon to Cape des Gabarouses is about 70 Leagues : Its breadth from Cape Sansona to the Port of Girotela , is something more than 20 Leagues . About 144 years before Christ , Metellus subdued it to the Romans , after which it was a part of the Eastern Empire : eight hundred and forty three years since , it was Conquered by the Sarazins : two hundred years after , it was taken from them by the Genoeses : next it fell under the domination of the French when they conquered Constantinople , under the Conduct of Baldwin . The new Emperour settled it afterwards upon the Venetian for what they had contributed to his Conquests , and they have enjoyed it about 464 years . Since the Year 1645 , the Turks having taken Canea ( called anciently Sidonia ) it has been much infested by them ; and this is like to be a critical year , for God knows who will be Master of it before the year be out . The humour of the Candians is very justly described by St. Paul , Cretenses semper mendaces , malae bestiae , ventres pigri , testimonium hoc verum est . We could not any way more certainly provoke their Calogers ( for they follow the Greek Church ) than by repeating the words of St. Paul in Greek . Their Prophet , mentioned by St. Paul , was the great Philosopher Epimenides , who was invited by Solon into Candia , to digest , with him , those Laws which he gave afterwards to the City of Athens , where Epimenides erected several Altars to the unknown God. We were no sooner on Shore at Fraskia , but ten or twelve Spahi or Horsemen came up galloping to examine us ; for since the report of the approach of the Christian succours , they keep exact Watch upon the Coast , and having but few Cavalry in their Camp , the greatest part are distributed upon the Roads , and near all the Harbours in the Island , but in such Parties add Brigades , that they could easily unite and march according to their signals from their Sentinels , which were placed all along the Rocks upon the Coast . In the Town of Fraskia we found nothing but rubbish ; the Venetians having sacked it themselves , and demolished a Mo●astery of Calogers not far from the Port ; however we staid 3 or 4 hours in those ruines and the next day we saw several Vessels come in thither with recruits of Janizaries and Spahi's . The old standing body of Janizaries consists at present of 30000 men ( twice the number it was in its primitive institution ) besides what assume that ●itle in the Garrisons of that vast Empire , who are thought to be rather more than ●00000 . Of these 30000 established Janizaries , there are near 20000 in Candia at present , the rest remain in Constantinople ( to secure the Grand Signiors Brothers ) ●nd at Larissa to attend upon his person : ●ut not a third part of them that ever had ●een Agemoglans , or Christians Children ; ●any Renegado's and natural Turks being ●dmitted daily into their numbers , besides ●he Pastors from Asia , with whom they are ●leased to dispence for four or five months ●ervice in the Seraglio , instead of an Apprentiship that they should serve in other places . When a Chorbachi or Captain has a Commission for raising a Company in any City or Town , the Sangiac Bey or Cadi , places a Chiaoux , or some other Officer at the door of their Mosco , or else in the Market-place , and makes proclamation that so many Soldiers are to be listed : If they come not in freely , the Cadi ( knowing the number of every Family ) sends to them and commands whom he lists , sometimes every second Man as occasion requires . In the same manner they raise their Belonk Spahi's or common Troopers , distinguishing them from their Timar Spahi's , who are obliged to maintain themselves upon their Timar● or Ziamets . Those recruits which we saw at Fraskia , were of these Belonk Spahi's ● for the other sort are never recruited ▪ Their arms are a Saber or Sword , a Zaga● or Launce , a Giled or Javelin , and a Bo● and Arrows ; for none but Janizaries Az●pes , and Forlorn-Hopes are permitted to ca●ry Muskets . They have commonly fif●● Arrows in a Quiver , and every Arrow co●● two Aspers , which is something more th●● a Penny. The whole Accoutrement , Bo●● and Quiver , and Arrows , costs 1440 Aspe●● which in French money is about 37 Live● and upwards , and these are all furnished at the Grand Signior's charge . Some of their Quivers are so richly imbroidered and adorned , that they cost 4 or 500 Franks alone . Their best Arrows are made at Caire . The Officers imployed for recruits , use the same artifice as they do in France , inveigling their men with hopes of making some Brigadiers , others sub-Brigadiers , and ●ll Commanders . Not one of these new ●aised Spahi's but was promised to be incorporated with the Silhataris , or Spaha●glaris , which two are of six sorts of their Cavalry the most considerable , as being ●tanding Forces , and duly paid out of the Exchequer ; the meanest , twelve Aspers a ●ay , and those that are brave and do any ●hing remarkable , a hundred : So that not ● man of these new Spahi could talk of any ●hing but of the Yellow Colours which is the ●tandard of the Silhataris ; or the Red Co●ours which is the Standard of the Spaha O●aris . When in truth they were designed for ●e lowest of the six sort of Cavalry , never ●ised but upon extraordinary necessity , and ●ivided into four Squadrons . One carries White and Red Colours , another White and ●ellow , the third Green , and the fourth White , under the Titles of Houlefigi , Solk ●●uleifi , Solk Hourebak , and Sak Kourebak . We could not find the least convenience to convey either our old or young people to the Camp ; all the Islanders being retired to the Mountains with their Cattel , so that we were glad to make use of our feet . Upon our left hand we left Policastro standing upon a Rock on the Shore , and passed a small River called Armiro , to Cazal de Gangra , which we found burned down to the ground . We heard the thundring of the Canon , and though till within half a league of Gangra we had passed pretty well without any dismal conceptions of the War , yet then we began to understand better , and had no need of direction in our way to the Leaguer . We could easily gues● where it was , by the thick smoke that was raised by springing the Mines about the Fort of St. Andrew which was directly before us : the Grand Vizer's Quarters was just in our way . Then it was I began to fancy my self in Turky , and to prepare my self to behold the splendour of the Ottoman Court , and the terrour of the East ● and doubtless the whole force of the Ottoman Empire was assembled in that siege . ●● would have been in vain either at Constantinople , Adrianople or Larissa it self to hav● sought the soul that acted this great body ▪ The absoluteness of the Grand Vizer , th● courage of his Troops , and the gravity of his Counsel might well pass for the Grandeur of the whole Empire . It is here therefore I must take the liberty to give a general character of their present State , and particularly of their great General who commands it , for 't is not possible to think of Candia , but the Turks and their whole Government will immediately occur to our reflexion . To give a deeper impression of the greatness of this Prince , we cannot proceed better than by considering the number and quality of the persons who tremble at his displeasure : apply it if you please to the immense Power of the Sultan when he makes any great preparation : Malta trembles , Spain is fearful for his Kingdoms of Naples and Sicily , the Venetian anxious for what he holds in Greece , Dalmatia and Friul ; the Germans apprehensive for what remains to them in Hungary ; Poland is alarmed , and the consternation passes on as far as Moscovie , and ( not resting there ) expands its self to the Christian Princes in Gonrgistan and Mingrelie : Persia , Arabia , the Abissins , are all in confusion , whilst neither Man nor Woman , nor Beast in all this vast Tract , but looks out for refuge till they be certain whither his great Force is intended . A strange torrent , that runs with that rapidity from Spain to Persia , from Germany to Aethiopia : Vienna in Austria , and Tartach near the Kingdom of Aden are become Neighbours ; and what say you of two of his Neighbours that have alwayes been at more than thirteen hundred leagues distance ? you have not often heard of such prodigious vicinity : And yet for all this , there being nothing so strange as the destiny of the Sultans , who in this latter Age have governed this puissant Empire , it will not be impertinent to explain it by the History of Mahomet the fourth the present Emperour . Sultan Achmet , Grandfather to this Mahomet IV , died in the year 1617. and left five Sons . Osman , Amurath , Orcan , Bajazet and Ibrahim : Of these five Brothers , four were strangled , and two of them after they were Emperours , that is to say , Osman and Ibrahim . Osman succeeded to the Empire 1617 , and was cut off by his Rebelliou● Subjects in the year 1621. Amurath succeeded him , ( for the Reign of his Uncle Mustapha is reckoned for nothing ) and having taken Bagdat ( commonly called Babylon ) was the only person of the five tha● died a natural death . Orcan and Bajazet were murdered by him , according to the barbarous policy of those Emperours ; and yet as bloody as he was , he spared Ibrahim , looking upon him as a weak person , and by consequence not dangerous . Amurath dying upon his debauches in 1640. Ibrahim , Father to Mahomet IV , was advanced to the Throne , and his destiny ( attending till he was Emperour , before it would suffer him to fall ) left him over to the cruelty of his Janizaries , who in a Mutiny strangled him in the midst of Constantinople in the year 1648. His Son Mahomet IV , being but seven years old , was received to the Crown , and is the present Emperour 1669. having had in his Family three Uncles , and his own Father strangled . Ibrahim , though plunged in the delights of the Seraglio , more than any of his Predecessors , formed his design against Christendom in the year 1644 , being provoked by the Chevalier de Bois-Baudran a French-man , who was at that time at Sea in a ship of Malta , and happened to intercept a great Gallion which the Sultan had sent for Aegypt laden with very rïch Presents intended for Meccha : There were also several Turkish Women of Quality , and a young Boy that many believed was Ibrahim's Son : The Boy was Christened in Malta 1656 , and in 1658 took upon himself the habit of a Jacobin under the name of Dominik Othoman . The noise of this loss alarmed Ibrahim in his Seraglio , and incensed him so highly , that the next year he fell upon Canea . How formidable then ought the ambition and puissance of the Turks be , when the softest and most effeminate of their Princes durst undertake so dangerous a War , upon so small an occasion ? Ibrahim died four years after he had begun that War , and left four Sons , and several Daughters : His Sons were Mahomet IV , Soliman , Bajazet and Orcan : These four Princes were by three several Women , Sultan Mahomet's Mother is alive at this day , and called in honour Validè Sultan , which is as much as to say the Sultanness Dowager ; Bajazet and Orcan are by another , and their Mother is likewise alive ; but the Mother of Soliman is dead : Soliman is second by birth , a hopeful Prince , and Bajazet as forward as he , which recommends them highly to the Janizaries ; Orcan is of another genius , more addicted to Piety and Religion , and therefore , as the Turks say , good for nothing but a Priest ; but 't is possible his dulness and devotion is but a pretence to keep him from strangling by taking away all suspicion from the Emperour , or rather from the Grand Vizer who Governs all at present , and whose interest it is not to endure any active or turbulent Princes , lest they should eclipse , and perhaps ruine his Fortune . Mahomet IV. has a scar in his face , which scar he received from his Father the last year of his Reign ; and the occasion was thus , This young Prince was brought up in the Seraglio among the she-slaves , where till they are about twelve years old , the Chez-adde are generally brought up ; Chez-adde is the name given to all the Sultan's Sons whilst their Father is living . Mahomet was alwayes in the Arms of the fair Odaliques ; and she who caressed him most , be would be sure to be withal : They would make him talk a thousand smart things , sometimes against one , sometimes against another , as quarrels arose among them , ( and their jealousie would seldom suffer them to be long without ) with this custom of pra●ing freely among the Women , the Boy got a habit of speaking sharp things . Ibrahim being one day walking in the Garden of the Seraglio , caused two of those Mutes , called Bizchami to dance before him ; those Bizchami must be Negro's and Eunuchs , or they cannot be admitted into that private apartment . It is a custom , when the Sultan has been pleased with any divertisement , to present those who entertained him ; and all persons at that time about the Sultan , do constantly do it . Ibrahim , the Keslar-Agasi and the Odaliques , presented the Mutes immediately , which being neglected by the young Prince , ( though to that purpose one of the Odaliques had thrust some pieces of Gold into his hand ) Ibrahim was angry , and turning to him , demanded why he did not present the Mutes as other people had done ; because , said the young Prince very briskly , I am not so much a fool as other people ; the sharpness of his answer put Ibrahim into a passion ; in the heat of which , forgetting the Ring upon his finger , he struck him with his hand so hard upon his face , that his Diamond cut the skin , and left a scar that is to be seen at this day . The Keslar-Agasi carried away the Child immediately with the blood running about his face , and roaring as loud as if he had been killed : The passion of the Emperour being over , and he much troubled at what he had done , ran after the Child , and in such hast , that not minding where he went , he tumbled into a Fountain that was in his way ; which accident doubling the confusion , the Odaliques that were thronging after the Child , came back , and pulled the Sultan out of the water . The Sultan Mahomet is of a tender and delicate complexion , but he manages it very ill . The Malecontents ( who are very numerous in that Country ) call him in derision the Hunts-man or Aviegi . He takes great delight in the noise of Canon , and has them often shot off only for his entertainment . He shoots very well both with the Bow and the Musket : He is very couragious , and extreamly desirous to be in person with his Army , whatever the Christians publish to the contrary , imagining that his great affection to hunting , and his propensity to the pleasures of Women , makes him apprehensive of the hazards of War. Would his Council have permitted it , he had been long since in Candia ; such was his zeal to be in the Army , that he threatned oftentimes to steal to them in disguise ; and when being a hunting , he was at any time lost , and failed to return at his accustomed hours , the whole Court was afraid he had given them the slip : But besides that his being in the field would have eclipsed the Glory of the Vizer , and rendered him of less importance to his affairs ; the absence of the Sultan , and the dangers to which he would have been exposed , would have enhaunced the courage of the Malecontents , and such who having been instrumental in the murther of his Father , were afraid of his revenge , and did ardently desire his death . The Turks will tell you wonders of his Wit : But every Nation cryes up the vivacity of their Prince ; This is most certain , he had for his Tutor a person called Vani Effendi , one that passes for so worthy and so learned a Man , that if any one pretends to extraordinary Judgement or Sagacity in any thing , the Turks by way of Irony will tell him , Yes , you are wiser , and understand more than Vani Effendi . Among all the Brothers of the Sultan , the Peoples eyes are fixt most strongly upon Soliman , whose Mother being dead , has procured him the compassion of the Army more than any of the rest , and by consequence exposed him more to the jealousie of the Sultan , who had like to have stabbed him with his dagger at Adrianople in the year 1666. some months before the Grand Vizer went for Candia , where he has continued ever since : The particulars you shall have hereafter . Since that accident the Janizaries have taken a greater care of the lives of Soliman and his Brothers , and by an action as couragious as prudent , have put them under the tuition of the Sultaness Validè the Mother of Mahomet , but with caution that she be responsible for them , though they do well understand that she would sacrifice them all to the interest of the Sultan : And indeed nothing can be more strange than to see the Sheep committed to the custody of the Wolf. This Sultaness is a Lady of great Magnanimity and Spirit . In the beginning of her Sons Reign she caused the old Validè widow to Achmet to be strangled . That old Lady was an ambitious Woman , who to keep her self in the Supreme Conduct of Affairs fomented the division betwixt the Spahi and the Janizaries , who were the death of her Son Ibrahim . The Sultan Mahomet has had two Sons besides Daughters , his eldest Son died , and was a Child of great hopes : The Mother of the young Prince is dead also , and much lamented by all the Officers of the Seraglio for her extraordinary bounty . She was exceedingly beautiful , but her Countrey and Extraction were never known ; she was taken and brought away by the Tartars when she was but four years old , and in a short time sold to a Bassa , who designed her immediately for the pleasures of the Emperour , and brought her up accordingly . 'T is true , the Tartars are obliged by express order from the Grand Signior to ke●● an exact Register of what Slaves they take either of one Sex or the other , of their age , their names , and their Country , thereby to justifie that they have brought away none of the Grand Signiors Subjects , which before that Order they did frequently do ▪ These Tories bring to Constantinople sometimes thirty , sometimes forty of these poor Girles , all of an age , but of different Countries ; being arrived there , their first business is to renounce their Christianity , and take upon them the Mahumetan Religion ; after which the Tartar gives in his Register ; and receives his discharge from the Cadi : But their Register is not regarded when they are gone , and by consequence the Countrey , Pedigree , and all other circumstances of their Slaves quickly forgotten , so as it is but seldom known from whence their great beauties come . By consent of all Travellers , there is no Countrey in the World produces so fine Women as Circassia , a Countrey in Asia upon the Mer major betwixt the lesser Tartars and Gourgiston . It is death for a Christian to buy a Circassian Slave , the Turks reserving them for themselves ; but when they are brought into the Seraglio , and grow eminent for their Beauty , their friends will quickly find out the place of their Nativity , and in flattery pronounce them Circassians , so much has that Countrey the reputation for bringing forth the most excellent Beauties . Thus the charms of this Lady discovering her birth , gave occasion to all about her to perswade her she was a Circassian , and she was pleased with it so well , that she would smile , and be much delighted when they called her so . Sultan Mahomet has now but one Son , about five years of age , born in the year 1664. but he has yet no name , for he was not Circumcised : The Mother of the said Prince was a Greek of Candia , and born in Petrino , where , when she was very young , she was taken and made a slave in the year 1647. when the said Town was subdued , and plundered by the Turks . She has at this time a great Belly , and follows the Sultan where ever he goes , and he loves her very passionately . She is reported to be very handsom , though a little disfigured with the small Pox. It is thought she will suddenly remove from Larissa to Constantinople , to lye in near the Sultana Validè , who , as I said before , continues in that City to have an eye over the Sultans three Brothers , and to keep the Spahi and Janizaries at variance . The present Favourite Sultana , is by the Turks called commonly Assaki , or Mistris to the Prince . She is very jealous of the Sultan , and in the year 1667. caused at Adrianople a young Georgion Damoisel to be strangled , because the Emperour began to delight in her company . My description of these particularities in the Ottoman Affairs , would be very imperfect , should I not give you some general hint of their Matters of State , by giving you an account in two words of the two last Vizers , or Chief Ministers ; and this i● of the more importance , because Ibrahim and his Son Mahomet have as it were associated their Vizers in their Empire , or rather contented themselves with a vain hereditary title , to leave to their Vizers an Authority so absolute and vast , that by way of inversion the two Sultans might be called , and not improperly , their two Ministers chief Slaves . Gioan Capigi Bachi by a good fortune peculiar to his house , was the seventh Vizer of his Family , though that honour never descended immediately from Father to Son , as it has done of late in the Family that possesses it now . Gioan Capigi Bachi Governed without controule during the animosity betwixt the Spahi's and the Janizaries ; but the story of this Vizer , of Salik , Pacha , and the rest being either obsolete or well known to you already , I shall only give you a touch of Coprogli Mehemet Pacha who was Vizer during the minority of Mahomet IV , and speak afterwards of his Son Coprogli Achmet Pacha who commands at present in Candia , and governs the whole affairs of the Empire with great authority and reputation . Coprogli Mehemet Pacha was made Vizer 1653 , when the Sultan Mahomet was entring into the Twelfth year of his age : He had been Sangiac Bey of Baruth a City in Syria , to the South of Mount Libanus . Those Governments are bought , and he of the Competitors who bids most , does usually carry them : Their way of bidding is by Purses , and he who gives the Sultan most Purses is the man : every Purse is reckoned worth five hundred Crowns . You may ea●y imagine that this way of selling the chief Offices of State , redounds more to the prejudice and oppression of the people , than the profit of the Prince , for the Officer will be sure to make himself whole at their cost whom he governs , and the Prince cannot in equity reprove him . At the end of three years ( which is the common duration of those Sangiacats ) Coprogli not having been able to pay all the money to the Emperour for which he had contracted , was a fair way to have lost his head , had it not been for the friendship of some in the Divan or Council of State , who obtained for him the Government of Alepo to see how that would inable him ; but he was no happier there than where he was before , or rather he was no more corrupt or exacting , for the people do magnifie him for his moderation ; but that is not so good as ready money with the Turks , especially now a-days , when the whole Treasure of that Prince is nothing but the fruit of Violence and Extortion . He returned to the Port unable to pay those Purses which he ought to the Grand Signor as before : The Tefterdar or Super-Intendent of the Finances , caused him to be arrested , and he was made close Prisoner with several other Officers of Quality accused of corruption ; who taking the imprisonment of Coprogli for a● evidence of his ill principles , entred into a strict intimacy with him . Coprogli was cunning , and to fish them , pretended to impart to them certain of his own counterfeit exorbitances , whereby he drew then into such a confidence as prevailed with them to discover to him all that they had really done . The Keslar-Agasi ( who at that time had a great share in the publick Affairs , and the Caimacan or Lieutenant Generalship of the Vizer ) came many times to interrogate the Prisoners , by order from the Sultana Validè . Upon occasion , the Keslar-Agasi having some private discourse with Coprogli , Coprogli told him as a secret , that if he would be a means to procure his liberty , he had an infallible way to fill the Sultan's Treasury . The Keslar-Agasi found him to be a man of parts , and recommended him so effectually to the Validè , that he was not only discharged but the very same day made Vizer Azem , that he might be invested with a character requisite for tak●ng an account of the Finances . And those revolutions are frequent in Turkie , where a man often transmigrates from an inferiour condition to the highest . This new Mini●ter was not advanced two days to his dig●ity , but he called before him above twen●y of those Officers with whom he had been ● fellow prisoner , and in that condition , ●een made privy to all their corruption ; ●pon their own confession he seized upon ●ll they had , and when he had done , in a ● large Hall through which the Sultan did ●ften pass , he caused all the money that he ●ad taken from those Prisoners to be put up into Bags , and disposed upon a Table covered over with a Cloth , under which there appeared to be something else . He attended the Sultan's coming by , and the young Prince having pleased himself very well with surveying the Bags , taking up the Cloth in expectation to have found more underneath , he saw about twenty heads reeking in blood as being newly cut off . The Sultan amazed at the sight , demanded whose they were , and what they did there ▪ The Vizer replyed , They are vomiting up the blood of your Subjects , which your Majesty will find in those Bags , for that is nothing but the money which they have robbed ; but they are not like to do so again . This was an odd way of proceeding but he was more sanguinary , and governed with much more severity than his Son ▪ He had one of his teeth that stuck out o● his mouth like a Bore's Tush , and frighted people to look opon it . He was a grea● lover of Wine , and laught at all Religiou● scruples thereupon ; but in that he was quit contrary to his Son , who abhors it abor● all Liquors . The great design of this Vizer was to a●vance the authority of his Master , muc● diminished by the frequent seditions of th● Janizaries , whose insolence he endeavou●ed to repress for the security of his own fortunes as well as for the Sultan's advantage . The Janizaries instead of being satiated with the blood of Ibrahim , taking encouragement from the youth of Sultan Mahomet , and the weakness of his former Ministers , ( of whom they had either strangled or deposed the greatest part ) refused the service in Candia upon pretence of certain priviledges that exempted them from any service at Sea ; but the truth is , they were afraid to trust themselves so far from Constantinople , where they were quartered conveniently , and had their Cabals constantly in their Oda's ; and indeed that was the great consideration that kept the Grand Signior from returning to Constantinople . Coprogli was constrained to interrupt his progress in Candia ; but to find the Janizaries work where they could not excuse themselves , and which he was sure would revenge his Master upon those mutinous Cattel , he took opportunity from the ambitious projects of Ragoteki , Hospodar or Prince of Transilvania , who contrary to the orders of the Port , had made War upon Poland , and entred privately into confederacy with the Swedes . Hereupon the Vizer sent into Transilvania the old Bands of the Janizaries , and all the most turbulent Officers among them ; most of which were cut off either at the taking of Waradin , or in the several skirmishes of Ragoteki . Afterwards they were forced to raise their Siege from before Clausembourg ( the usual residence of the Hospodars ) but however that Enterprize proved ineffectual , it devoured many of their best men . The affairs of Transilvania gave some respite to the Wars in Candia . Every Bassa that was sent General into that Island , secured the Army to himself , and gave obedience to Orders from the Port , no farther than they agreed with their own private designs . They were unanimously bent upon affrighting the Emperour , and if possible , destroying him . Coprogli Mehemet to obviate their designs , and make an Example of these seditious Officers , had caused the famous Delli Vssani Pacha ( General in Candia , and as brave a man as ever was among the Turks ) to be strangled . And certainly it was great imprudence in the said Delli Vssani Pacha , after he had disobeyed his Orders in Candia , and in a manner revolted from the Sultan , to be so wheedled and blinded with the fair promises of the Vizer as to come frankly to Constantinople , and put himself into the Vizer's hands , by whom he was immediately committed to the Castle of the seven Towers , with several Christian Officers taken in the Wars of Candia , and sent Prisoners thither . The Executioner strangled him in the presence of the said Officers by particular direction form the Vizer , to torment and excruciate him the more . Coprogli was married to an illustrious Lady , who as I told you is still living , and in Candia promoting the affairs of her Son. She is called Fateima Kadun ; She is a Lady of a large Soul , and a Wit infinitely above the rest of her Sex , as appeared by her subtilty in advancing her Son to the dignity of his Father , which was without president , for till that time it was never known that the Son succeeded the Father in so important a charge . The Father being upon his Death-bed , the Validè Widow of Sultan Ibrahim , understanding there was no hopes of his recovery , sent to visit him the six other Vizers who made up the Divan , of which they were members , but the Grand Vizer , the head , and indeed absolute Master : Their order was to confer with him about the mysteries of State which had been committed only to him . Fateima Kadun having notice of their Visit , and designing to make the Fortune of her Son , perswaded her dying Husband to pretend himself speechless , which he did , and the Vizers being admitted , believed him really incapable of any such discourse , and accordingly complained very heavily how much his being speechless would be prejudicial to the interest of the Empire . Fateima interrupting them , told them , You see by misfortune my Husband is unable to advise you any farther , but there is his Son with whom he has deposited all those secrets that concern the State ; he is the only person can advance , he is the only person can perplex the Publick Affairs ; my humble advice to the Sultan is , that he would speedily consider what he is to do , and either prefer my Son to the Dignity of his Father , or strangle him ; that if he may do his Majesty no service , it may not be in his power to hurt him . Her Counsel being reported to the Validè , who was well acquainted with the abilities of Achmet Pacha , it made such an impression upon her , that she gave ear to Fateima's Proposition , as having loved her very well , and conversed her often when her greater Negotiations brought her to the Grand Vizer . By this Stratagem Achmet Pacha was sworn Vizer Azem in the place of his Father , and ( as an addition to the wonder ) when he was scarce thirty years old , whereas till him , never any was advanced to that Honour before forty at the least . This happened in the year 1662. The new Vizer Coprogli Achmet Pacha following the maximes of his Father , resolved to prosecute the War in Transilvania , if possible to extinguish the Mutineers that remained among the Janizaries , before he revived his old quarrel in Candia . But the interests of Hungary having ingaged the Emperour of Germany in its relief , the new Vizer in the year 1663. came in person to the Army , which before was commanded by Ali Pacha , and that Campagnia took New-hausel : The next year 1664. he raised the Siege of Canisia , and carried a Fort by storm from Count Nicholas de Serini ; after which he attempted to pass the River Rhaab under the noses of the Christian Army , with design to have made an excursion into Austria , and harassed that Countrey ; and he had proceeded so far as to have broken and cut off a considerable body of the German Forces , under the Command of the Prince of Baden , when being incounter'd and stop'd in his Carier by a Squadron of French , who ( animated by the bravery of the Duke de Fuillade ) took the Post which the Germans had abandoned , defeated a select body of the Turks , and beat the whole Party over the River . This great Victory obtained in the latter end of the year 1664. obliged the Vizer Azem to conclude a Peace with the Emperour of Germany ; after which returning to Constantinople , the consideration of his services , and the qualification of his person recommended him so highly to the Sultan , that ever since he has had the sole Government of his Affairs . The next year 1665. was spent in ratification of the Peace , in suppressing privately , and defeating the design of the discontented Party ( who had espoused the interest of the Sultans Brothers ) and in preparation for the War in Candia . All the Officers about the Sultans Person , and all the Members of the Divan , who were any wayes suspicious , were removed by a thousand pretences , and their places supplyed by his Creatures : But in the Army he retained the old Officers on purpose to destroy them . It is most certain , no solid preferment is to be got , or at least enjoy'd long , without his protection . When upon necessity of his absence he has disposed about the person of the Sultan certain young Favourites to entertain and attend the Grand Signior in his Sports , if by imprudence , or inadvertency they have given the Grand Vizer any occasion of jealousie , he has found wayes immediately to supplant them . He has at present , as Favourite to the Sultan , placed about him a young Gentleman of Cogna in Natolia , his name is Koulogli Mousaip , which is as much as to say , the Favourite Son of a Slave . He is of his person a very handsome man , an excellent Huntsman , rides well , and in a word , performs all the Turkish Exercises with great dexterity . This Koulogli Mousaip ( being much more discreet than any of those who had been before him in the same station , and been strangled by the Vizer ) is very well satisfied , that to continue a Favourite with the Sultan , he must not give the least umbrage to the Vizer ; and therefore he avoids all occasion of mentioning Publick Affairs to the Grand Signior , unless it be to magnifie the Exploits of his Chief Minister . 'T is reported of him , that he never concerned himself in any great thing but once , and that was when meeting one day in the streets of Adrianople a poor Greek Priest of his own Town Cogna , with whom he had been well acquainted in his minority , he called him to him , and after several caresses and expressions of kindness , offered to make him Patriarch of Constantinople , which the poor Papas thought too great for his conduct , and contented himself with an Alms. The Port resolving to make a strong Attach upon Candia , the Sultan left Constantinople in March 1666. and is not yet returned , nor like to be in a long time ; and all , to humble the Citizens of Constantinople , who have been too forward in their concurrence with the Janizaries , designing thereby to chastise their malevolence , and make them sensible of the incommodities that ensue upon the absence of their Prince . The Grand Vizer attended him as far as Adrianople , from whence the Sultan removing to Methoca a City in Romania , in an excellent Countrey for Hunting , the Vizer took his leave , and crossing Macedonia , and Thessalia , he arrived at Thebes , where he continued for some time , till the Troops that were to attend him could be brought together . They took their March by the Famous Isthmus of Corinth , called at present Hexamile , and came to imbark some at Napoli di Romania , anciently called Nauplion in the Province of Argos , and part at Porto-delle-Botte which is the old Town of Cyphanta . The Vizer himself imbarked at Malvezie ( called otherwise Monembazie ) and not at Napoli di Romania , as some people have published . This Malvezie is the ancient City of Epidaurus called Limera , whose Harbour is so bad , that a Vessel that draws but six foot water , cannot enter without striking : But the Vizer was carried off in a Tartan to a Galley that attended him with five and forty others for his Convoy to Canea , where they landed him safely . His Mother Fateima Kadun had been conveyed thither four dayes before by four Galleys . Kadun I have told you ( if I be not mistaken ) is as much as Madam with us . This Fateima has made it appear , that in Turkie , her Sex is neither so contemptible nor so much contemned as has been reported . Her Magnanimity is so great , that I must tell you , as the whole Eastern world is convinced of the Potency of her Son , so they are sensible her interest with him is such , that she governs him absolutely , and by consequence manages the whole Affairs of the Empire . The Vizer remained four months at Canea to inform himself of the condition of the Venetians , and prepare himself for the Siege of Candia . The beginning of May 1667. he brought his Army to a Rendez-vouz at New Candia , an old Castle with a few pittiful houses about it , some two leagues from the City . About fifteen or sixteen years before , the Famous Delli Vssain Pacha leaving that Island to go ( as I said before ) and finish his dayes miserably at Constantinople , the Troops that he left behind him , intrenched themselves at New-Candia , and called it Eina-die , which is as much as to say , harm watch , harm catch ; For the Venetian Garrison making frequent Excursions , and the Turks being as busie from thence , gave it the name of Eina-die , and in my judgement with a great deal of propriety . The Genzar-Aga , or Maistre de Camp to the Janizaries , being a Creature of the Vizers , took a general view of his Army at Eina-die , and found them complete fifty thousand men , besides about fourteen thousand Pioneers , and several Victualers , and such kind of people following the Camp. Most of the Pioneers were forced out of the Islands in the Archipelago and Morea ; the Army having ruined their Huts at Fina-die , advanced against Candia , where the Vizer met them from Canea . The City of Candia was called formerly Cytaeon , not much differing from Cytion in Cyprus , where Zeno was born , who was the Founder of the Sect of the Stoicks . This Candia ( in Ancient Times so Famous for its bigness and wealth , that in the Reign of the last Emperours of the East it denominated the whole Island ) is scarce cognoscible now but by the glorious reliques of its ramparts , which notwithstanding have , and do still resist the strongest Efforts that ever the whole Ottoman strength has been able to make . 'T is the common talk of those parts , that never City has sustained so fierce a Siege so long a time ; perhaps they may reckon for one Siege all the Encampments that the Turks have made there from the year 1647. when they belcaguered it first , for when they discontinued their formal Leaguer , they blocked it up so close for above twenty years together , that the Garrison durst not stir out above Cannon-shot from the Walls ; and in that sense it has been effectually the longest Siege that has been mentioned in History . The Town is fortified with seven Bastions , five towards the Island , and two ( viz. St. Andrew , and Sabonniera ) towards the Sea : These two are in a streight Line at the two ends of the Harbour , which is called Dramata , and looks toward the North. About a year since , the Turks quitted their old Works that they had raised to no purpose against the Bastions towards the Island , and turned their approaches upon the two Bastions towards the Sea. On the Sabonniera side they press not so hard , by reason the ground consisting much of sand , their Works are apt to moulder as fast as they make them : But the hottest service is on the side of St. Andrew , where their approaches are carried on by the Sea side , under the protection of an Artificial Mountain which they removed thither from another place . The Post of St. Andrew is a kind of half Bastion , built only with a Flank that scoures towards the Fort of Panigra , but towards the Sea , it is only a Plat-form that flanks nothing , and has nothing to flank it . 'T is a strange thing , that for twenty years together , both besiegers and besieged should have neglected this Post . Standing upon a hard Rock , the Turks thought it unminable , and therefore unapproachable ; and the Christians believed themselves safe there by the meer nature of the place : But both of them were mistaken , and the Christians worst of all , for the place must be suddenly relieved , or it will be certainly lost , and had it not been for an opportunity , in which the French signalized their experience and courage , the Town had been taken on that side by a demy Gorge , which is a piece of Fortification , that till then was never used in any Town , to the great disparagement of the Venetian Engineers ; the first discovery of that place was made by certain Renegadoes that ran into the Turkish Camp , where there are but too many of them : About the latter end of the year 1668. the Duke de Feuiliade brought to the succour of the Town four Brigades of French Gentlemen Commanded by the Count de S. Paul ; the Duke of Chasteau-Thierry ; the Duke of Caderouse , and the Count de Villemor . The Marquess de la Motte Tenelon , had not the Command of a Brigade , as being left free to execute the extraordinary Commands of the Duke de Feuillade , who advised with him in every thing ; and this by accident gave him means to do the besieged the most signal piece of service that could be expected from any one Man ; for viewing the Works on that side , he perceived the Turks were Masters of all the ground betwixt the Fort St. Andrew and the Sea ; had planted their Batteries , fixed their Lodgements , and provided very well for the security of their Posts ; and which was most dreadful to him , they were battering the Scotch Work , which was the only place that could give any defence to a breach they had already made in the Demie-Gorge . The Scotch Work was an old Tower in the middle of a Wall that flanked the Demie-Gorge so effectually , that if that Flanker was made unserviceable , the Town was impossible to be defended . The Marquess de la Motte Tenelon having remonstrated all this to the Venetians , and convinced them of the importance of that place , they left it to his care to prevent the great danger which at that time was very pressing upon them . The first thing to be done , was to repair the old Capponnieres towards the Sea which they themselves had destroyed , and quitted not long before . A Capponniere is a little Lodgement or Post for their outermost Guards to lye in , it is made of Planks , driven half way into the ground , and lined with earth , in which there was room for about a dozen or fifteen Musqueteers , that sired upon occasion out of little holes made to that purpose . The Turks had brought vast quantities of earth , and thrown them upon the Capponniers , and thereby brought their approaches to the very foot of the breach . The Marquess was present at the recovery of these Capponniers , and had the Turks alwayes in his teeth with only nine or ten foot of earth betwixt them : Having recovered , and refitted his Capponniers , he ran a Gallery under the Batteries and Lodgements of the Turks , and blew them up into the air , thereby giving the besieged convenience to repair the Scotch Work , from whence they shot so effectually with their Cannon , that it has been too hot for the Turks , and they have not attempted it since . But for this Work , the Town had been taken above three months ago . You would not believe it , and yet it was certainly true , the French were at that time forced to preach Moderation and Temper to the Venetians , whose Commanders were then so full of animosity and emulation , ( especially Morosini and Cornaro ) that their Councils of War were nothing but Threats , and Exprobrations , and Manifesto's , and Protestations one against the other ; our great Officers ( who were admitted to those Councils ) were amazed at their own prudence and temper , in respect of those who had alwayes reproached our Nation by its heat and activity . Had I not been ▪ told this by more than one or two of the Renegades , I should never have believed it . The Turks understood it very well , and laught at the Venetian Pantalons , for that was the name they gave the Venetian Officers . This is certain , the Garrison has never effectually seconded the Efforts of their Auxiliaries . The Venetian , as it is thought , being unwilling to be relieved by such inconsiderable supplyes , have fancied , that by exposing them , and suffering them to be cut off , their Masters , the Christian Princes would be provoked to espouse them more vigorously to repair their own Honours , and by degrees grow to make the Venetian Quarrel their own . Upon Friday the 10 th of May 1669. ( which the Turks count the 9 th of their Douleggaide , and of their Egire 1080. ) I arrived at the Camp , two days before their little Bairam , which fell out the 11 th of May ; for there being that year seventy compleat days from the end of the Moon of Ramaden , to the tenth of the Moon of Douleggaide , the little Bairam happened the tenth of that Moon , and the Ramaden concluded the last day of our February . The Turkish Camp had no Lines either of Circumvallation or Contravallation ; a Line of Circumvallation would have been utterly useless , because they feard no succours by Land. And the Garrison thinking themselves very happy if they can keep their own ground , there was no great need of any Contravallation against their Sallies ; only about Cannon-shot from the two Bastions , the Turks thought fit to cast up a few pittiful Lines , to shelter their place of Arms , where they draw up , when commanded out upon any considerable Service . These Lines , instead of being brought up streight one to another , as with us , are turned with a bow at both ends , which seems repugnant to our Rules ; but our curiosity is not so usefull among them , for the Enemy never going directly towards an attack , nor many times together the same way , the pedantry of our methods would be to no purpose . The whole strength of their Camp consists of great Plat-forms , which those Infidels have raised upon the shore , and planted them very liberally with Cannon to play upon the Christian Ships . There are also Plat-forms that lie low , and even with the water , made on purpose to hinder the descent of the Venetians . I went first to the Vizers Quarter , which among us would have been called the Royal Quarter . It lies towards the Fort of Saint Andre westward of the Town ; and in that quarter most of the Janizaries and select Troops of the Army are disposed . The Quarter of the Romiliots , or European Troops under the Command of the Beglierbey of Sophia was before the Fort of Panigra on the S. W. side of the Town . The Messerliotts or Troops out of Aegypt and Arabia were quartered on the South ; the Natolians or Troops out of Asia on the South East : And towards their Lazaret or Hospital , over against the Post of Sabionera directly to the East , lay a considerable body of Janizaries , with detachments , and commanded parties out of all the other Quarters . The Chief Officers commanding in those several Quarters , have no certain place allotted to themselves , as with us , for the Vizer changes them as he pleases , and many times removes the whole Brigade from one Quarter to another . The Bassas , who at my coming were in principal Command , were the Vizer du Camp , which is as much as the Vizer Azem's Lieutenant-General : the Beglerbey of Romulia ; the Capoudan Bassa Brother in Law to the Grand Vizer ; the Genizar-Aga , a brave Man , and his Creature ; Zambatag Ogli-Houssekni Son to one of the Sultans Sisters ; Zatt-Patat-Ogli , for a Turk a very understanding man in all Foreign Affairs , and designed to be Bassa of Cairo ; Frane Mehemet Pacha , a Renegade Portugesse , to whom the Grand Vizer has promised tho Government of Candia when taken : And Bebyr Pacha , a man of Execution , and one who speaking very well the Language of the Franks , would be a proper person to Treat with the Christians . The General of their Horse called Spahilar-Agasi , continued at Canea , from whence he made frequent Cavalcades about the Island to keep an eye over his Horse which were quartered all along upon the Coast under the Command of six Colonels , or Boulouk Agalar's . It is not above four years since this person was made General of the Cavalry ; his predecessor was slain by the French at the passing of Raab near St. Gothard in the year 1664. The Quarters of the Vizer Azem is the only fix'd Quarter in the Army , and chosen with all the convenients that is consistent with the security of the Camp. The little Turkish Vessels can land just by him , without passing before the Town ; it lies upon the Road to Canea and Policastro , and there is no Forrage but on that side : His Troops are sheltered from the City by a little hill , which gives also to the Besiegers an advantage to raise Batteries : But its greatest Commodity is from the River Giofro , which runs at the foot of the said Hill. The River is not much bigger than the Gobelins at Paris , and yet it contributes exceedingly to the miseries of the City of Candia , for without those waters the Turks could not have subsisted so long . At the beginning of the first Siege in the year 1648. some of the Venetians poisoned those waters , without advising with their General , and it was the destruction of above twenty thousand Turks ; which being no fair action , according to the punctilio's of War , the Turks ( who of themselves are not over-apt to give quarter ) revenged it effectually by most incredible barbarities . I was astonished at the number and beauty of the Tents in that Quarter : For the Hutts and Cabins for the common Soldiers , I saw three great Boards that had served to make ten thousand of them . You will ask what kind of things those Cabins are among the Turks , and how they are built : They take of the fattest earth they can find , sprinkle it with water as they do Mortar , and having marked out a proportion of it of about seven foot in length , and six in breadth , they take three large Planks , and fasten them round , as they were to make a Chest : The Planks are used as a kind of Mould for the casting of these Cazernes , for when the Boards are disposed right , they throw more water upon the Mould , and then let it stand till it be dry : when it has stood long enough , is grown to a consistence , and is sufficiently stiff to stand by it self , the Planks are taken away , and imployed in another place . Every one of these Cazernes or Cabins is allowed to be five foot high , covered a top with certain old pieces of Wood , over which they lay a little of their prepared Mould , which they suffer to dry , and with very good effect ; but for thatch , it is not to be thought on in Candia , where they have neither sowing nor reaping , and trees are more scarce than straw ; the great ones have been all cut up to make their Palisadoes and Fortifications , and the little ones have been burned : In short , each of those Caverns built according to the above-mentioned dimensions , will receive twelve Souldiers ; but for greater numbers , they are proportion'd accordingly . The Grand Vizer was not lodged in a Tent ; they had built him a Serrai or Palace half a quarter of a league about : The Turks presumed when he once sate down before the Town , he would not suddenly rise again , and therefore they thought fit his Quarters should be made durable . The Walls of his Palace were of stone some six or eight foot high from the floor ; the rest of the House ( which in some places was two stories high ) was made of that sprinkled dirt dryed , and a little old Timber . In the Camp there were at least a hundred of these Serrai's set up by the Principal Officers for themselves . The Serrai or Palace of Delli-Houssain-Pacha , built in the time of the first Siege over against the Fort of Martinengoe , was the most considerable of them all : When the Army was drawn off , and the Siege discontinued , it was set on fire by the Venetians , but the Beglerbey of Romulia has repair'd it again . Before the Grand Vizers Serrai was a kind of a Gibbet set up with seven horse tails upon it ; each Beglerbey in the Army has six before his door : But those are honorary and no more , the Grand Vizer's is a great mark of authority . When the Sultan in person is in the Camp , he ha● nine tailes before his Tent or Palace , or where ever he lies . The Aga of the Janizaries has no such thing before his , though he be one of the most considerable Officers in the Army : Before the Tents of the other Bassas there are two , and six before the Caimacan of the Vizer , who is in the nature of Super-intendant of the Army . The Gibbet set up for these Tails before the Grand Vizer's Tent is four square , and when the Army marches , the square in which the Horse tails are fastened , directs the way the Army is to take : for if the tails be fastned towards the East , their motion is to be that way ; and so in general all their Campments and Lodgements in their march are signified by that part of the horizon towards which the tails are hung . Being got into the Camp , each of us found some of our friends , and immediately dispersed . Amuret-Aga went one way and we another ; I continued with Osman Chelebi in a Hutt that was offer'd him ; his two Brothers in Law ( Sons of Mustapha Bey ) that he thought to have found before Candia , and quartered with them , were sent in Garrison not long before to Girapietra , a Post that they have fortified in that Island . In the Turkish Army , though it be very numerous , any body that one inquires for is easily found out . Their Oda's are known and distinguished by their succession and order of their numbers , as first , second , third , and so on : But for greater instruction , at the door of every Chorbagi is hung up the name of some animal or other , as a Lion , a Camel , an Eagle , &c. and a great paper with the name of it in large Characters . We were scarce setled in our Hutt , but the silence that is alwayes very remarkable in the Turkish Army , was on a sudden interrupted by a most dreadful noise in springing their Mines that were ready under the Fort of St. Andre , and the Yells of the Turks advancing to the Assault : The Cannon both in the Leaguer and City , made up the Consort . This was the first time I ever saw the Grand Vizer , he was got a top of a little eminence out of Cannon-shot from the Town , to see the execution of the Mines , and success of the attaque : The sight of this great person struck my heart more violently than mine eyes : He is but of a middle Stature , yet very vigorous and strong ; his Face is something pitted with the small Pox , and his Cheeks very red ; his Eyes are black , and hollow , and stern ; his Complexion is tauny ; his Beard long and very black ; he was on foot in the midst of fifty or threescore of his Guards armed like Albanians , with their Captain Delli Bachi at the head of them . The Vizer was discoursing with Zambatag-Ogli-Housekni , a young Gentleman , and as they said there , much like the Grand Signior who is his Uncle : The Vizer had no sooner placed himself , but all his Officers came about him . It is concluded by all hands , that he is personally brave , and as great a Souldier as ever they had ; yet he is cautious , and runs not head-long himself upon every occasion , to visit the Works ; with a small , but excellent Perspective , he was viewing the order of their attaques ; but because the dust and the smoke did many times obstruct him , he sent ever and anon some body to understand how things went in every Post ; which messengers , to give him an exact account , exposed themselves so freely to the Enemies shot , that of thirty sent out , there was but four returned . This was one of the hottest attempts during the whole Leaguer ; the Turks had sprung three Mines under the Fort of Saint Andre . Whilst the Vizer was imployed with his Perspective-Glass in observing the execution of the Mines , wagers were lai'd by the Officers about him that the Work was blown up , and a gale of wind blowing away the smoke discovered who had won : The execution was great , carrying away a whole row of Palisadoes from the besieged , and making a breach in which the Turks endeavoured many times to lodge themselves , their swords in their hands , but were repulsed with great slaughter . They gave out that they had slain the General of the Christians , but the repulsed Troops never return without some such story for preservation of their Honour : but at this time there was some reason for their report , for a day or two afterwards we understood by a fugitive , that the Marquess of Saint Andre , a French Man , and Governour of the Town was in that action wounded in the face by the splinter of a stone : This happened the 9 th of their Douleggiade , and according to our Kalendar on the 10 th of May 1669. The Troops that are daily designed for the Guard of the Trenches , are relieved every twelve hours : And when an Oda is appointed for the whole day , the Chorbaggi takes one half of them to mount the Trenches , and twelve hours after is relieved by the Oda Baschi with the other moity . But an Oda consists commonly of three or four thousand men , which are easily divided for service . In the evening two Chiaouxes having placed themselves before the Grand Vizers door , one of one side , and the other of the other ; they make proclamation as loud as they can , and cry out Allah , Allah ; upon which the Souldiers assembling in great numbers , the Chiaouxes set certain prices upon the heads of the Christians for the next day ; this is their custome every night , that the hopes of reward might animate their men , for nothing is better money than the head of a Christian ; but their heads are not alwayes at a rate ; when the Christian Army is strong , and heads harder to come by , a head is worth 25 or 30 Crowns ; but when their Army is weak , and heads are like to be plentiful , nine or ten Crowns is a good price , and they think it well if the Market would hold there . The next day being a Festival , and their Bayram , they set twenty Crowns upon a head . There was also a rate set for every piece of a Palisade that could be forced from the Works of the City , and brought to the Vizer , and the price for the next day was set at three Crowns . The Venetians set their Prices in the same manner upon the heads of the Turks ; but they are not so good Chapmen , for ten or twelve Livers is as much as they give for a head ; and at that rate they come in sometimes so plentifully that they have been known to set their Walls round with them , and all such other places as have been within sight of the Enemy . But there was a time once when these kind of Trophies were prohibited in the Town , and that was when the Plague was in the Turks Camp , then the head of one Infidel might have been enough to have infected ten thousand Christians . In the year 1667. an accident hapned in the Vizer's Camp that was very rare ; There was in the Quarter of the Messerhots a great heap of Christian heads , and it was reported that one of those heads moaned and complained every night , and that half the Army in that Quarter had heard it : and it was the more wonderful with them , because they believe nothing of the return , or apparition of Spirits , but laugh at those stories . This accident made such a noise that it came to the Ears of the Vizir . The Vizir being a curious , but no credulous person , went himself to the place , and heard an odd kind of noise from out of one of the heads that lay uppermost upon the Pile : The Vizir was a quick man , and observed that the Head standing with the Face to the wind , the wind blew strongly into the Nostrils , and not being able to get out but with difficulty , by its working and agitation in the Skull produced that sound . He caused the Nostrils to be stopt with Clay , but the Soldiers reporting still that the Head was heard to complain , and that it was doubtless some among the Christians who had dyed a Turk , the Vizir caused that and the whole heap to be thrown into the Sea. Every morning at five a clock the Soldiers are called to their prayers by sound of Trumpet ; the Troops in their several Quarters repair immediately to their place of Arms : To begin their Devotions they cry out as loud as they can Allah three times , and they make a noise with it that may be heard two Leagues ; and in this it is that they may well reproach the carelesness of our devotions . He that should behold their modesty and humility at their prayers , would wonder it should be possible that so much courage and piety could consist . They have a larger sort of Drums than ordinary that call them from their Prayers , of which there is but one in every Quarter , and that is either placed upon a piece of wood to that purpose , or else upon a Camel before the Vizer or Beglerbey's Tent who Commands in chief . Their noise is almost like Thunder , and heard two or three Leagues , and the profound and universal silence of their Camp , makes it heard the farther . The smaller Drums are for the Soldiers commanded by the Beglerbeys ; for the Janizaries use no Drums , nor indeed any other Instrument in the room of them , no not so much as in their March. There are Chiaouxes on purpose , who carry Orders to the Janizaries when at any time they are commanded . In that case they hang up Colours before the Tent of the Chorbaggi , and the Word passes from one to the other . In their Marches they follow the directions of the great Drums which belong to their General Officers : The common Drums are beaten at both ends , with two sticks of an unequal bigness , With their right hand they beat quick and strong , with their left they strike more slowly , and make a sound in my judgment more solemn and martial than ours . Every Beglerbey has his Company of Guards , composed only of his own Footmen called Moulaggi : Upon a March the Moulaggi are always mounted , and on Horse-back , but in Candia they serve on foot . These Moulaggi have their Bagpipes , their Haut-bois , their Trumpets , and Kettle-Drums , and upon several occasions do make use of them all . The Zaims and Timariots have likewise their Kettle-Drums . As to their Colours or Standards , every Oda has its Bairakter or Ensigne . This Officer is never without several Colours , to set up and display upon the Platform of their Batteries , upon their breaches or their logdments in an Attack . The Colours are commonly charged salterwise with Symetars vert upon a Field Or : sometimes Gules in a Field Argent . Sables is forbidden as altogether ominous . Sometimes they inscribe in Arabick Letters , the name of God , or some of his Attributes . In their skirmishes with the Christians they are very proud if they can get any of our Colours , because they know it is a loss highly regretted among them , and very dishonourable : but they do not show them , nor hang them up publickly as we do ; only now and then the Renegadoes will keep them and hang them up in their houses , as retaining our Customs , though not our Religion . The Order observed by the Turks in their night-Guards , is different from ours ; they have indeed their Horse-Guards petrolling about all night long ; but with their Foot it is quite otherwise : They never put one single man upon a Sentinel , but place little Squadrons of thirty and forty men in a Squadron about their Camp , and especially towards the Enemy , on which side they place their Squadrons or Parties about two or three hundred paces distance at the most . They have none of our Perdue's , thinking it little less than madness to trust the lives of 100000 men to the vigilance or fidelity of a single person , contrary quite to our opinion , who think it as extravagant to disturb a whole Army to watch , when one man may do it as well ; but I am rather of their judgment than our own . Their opinion is sober and cautious , ours more vain and secure . Let the occasion be what it will , their Foot never go the Rounds , and therefore are never trusted with the Word . When these little bodies upon the out-Guards descry any body near them , they cry out Kimpsem , who goes there ? which is followed immediately with Dourbourda , stand . Their common answer is Biz-iz , 'T is we ; for they suppose no man will come alone with a good design , and therefore our complement , A Friend , would not pass with them . If there be two or three in the company , and none of them replies , the next Word from the Guards is Vldurun , or kill them , kill them , and commonly they are as good as their word , and then give the alarm to the whole Camp. At the beginning of the Siege they were not so strict , there being no talk of succours from Christendom , nor no apprehension from the Islanders ; then if any of their Guards had espied a man , after their Allah Allah three or four times , they called out in the Frank language , A Largua , A Largua , which is a Sea phrase , and as much as who are you for ? Those who are questioned , do answer immediately Alla ; otherwise the Court of Guard cryes out Alla again , and fires upon them . It would be no easie matter for the Venetians to think to surprize the Turks by crying out Alla ; for the Turks have a peculiar way of speaking that word , pronouncing it in the throat , according to the way of the Arabians . In the same manner the Spaniard pronounces Muger , in which it is not possible for a French man to imitate him . Our Christians that are not used to the Turkish articulation , will tell you , that when those Infidels go to an ingagement , they do it with strange yells and noises , which indeed is nothing but their pious invocations : However at those times the word Alla is alwayes in their mouths , and I doubt the fear that seizes us commonly at those times , makes the Turkish Musick less gratefull to our ears . Those who have skill in Souldiery , will perhaps condemn this custom of the Turks , and object , that the Romans ( who were greater Conquerours of the two ) observed better Order in their Camps . I will not meddle with the speculative part , let us come to the active : 'T is true , the Turks have not that regular way of incamping , as the Romans had , nor their method of fighting ; for the Turks understand nothing of wheeling , or the other Military Motions that the Greeks and the Romans have derived to us , and yet in three hundred years they have won more Battels , and made larger conquests than the Romans in eight hundred ; 't is true , afterwards the Romans out-did them , but the more shame for the Christians now , who understanding the way of facing about , the way of countermarches , doubling of ranks and files , and several other Motions , are yet so often beaten by the Turks . There is one thing which to me has been alwayes very admirable ; Most Authors that write of the Turks , and other People ambitious of Honour , are perpetually counselling to make War upon the Turks , representing them Cowards , and Sots , and easily conquered : By their account the taking of Constantinople is a trifle , and so easie , 't is not worth the name of an Enterprize ; I wonder they can forbear disposing before-hand of the plunder of that great City , and that every one of them has not reserved three or four of the Principal Odaliques in the Seraglio for himself . What then must be the odds betwixt us in Martial Discipline ? Why ? the Turks are more obedient to their Officers , are more at unity among themselves , more sober , and less fugitive ; and this certainly must be the reason , for their skins are no harder than ours , unless possibly it be that Empires have their periods like particular men . On Saturday 11. of May , on the morning the whole Camp put themselves in arms to begin the Festivity of their Bayram , which they signified to the Christians by three rounds of great shot from their Batteries , and as many salvoes of small shot from their Infantry who gave very good fire : But the whole Army was not drawn up as I expected . Every Quarter rejoyced by it self . I think there could not be braver men seen in the world than the Grand Vizer's Janizaries : Their Arms were so bright , they were able to dazle a mans eyes : the fierceness of their looks , and the Majesty of their Motion presaged their success : their Dolimans or Coats were as good as new , very well shaped , though made of a course cloth from Salonica ; they had not had them above two months : Once every year the Sultan gives them new Coats at his own charge , and the time that they are delivered is about the month of Cheuval , that they may be neat and spruce against their Grand Bayram : they had not their Zercola's or long Coifs upon their heads which they wear upon Solemnities ; in the Army they would be troublesome ; they had only Bonnets or Caps of wooll or coloured cloth , with their handkerchiefs roll'd about them to make them look like Turbans : They wear no beards , but not upon the score that we pretend , who would have it a mark that they are the Sultan's real slaves , for , as they say , he who is a Musleman , what is he else ? All the rest of the Sultan's Subjects , wear their Muschatoes very long , and they would let their under lips grow so too , were not they fearful of being taken by the beard in their Battels , and so put to the worst . 'T is most certain , that for the same reason Alexander the Great commanded his Captains , that all the Macedonian Souldiers should cut off their beards : And the Abanthes , a war-like People of Eubea , do use it at this day . In the Grand Vizer's Quarter there was near fifteen thousand Janizaries , besides a party of them sent about to the Post of Sabonniera : I judged the whole Army to consist of about forty five thousand men , and near as many others , Cannoniers , Pioniers , Sutlers , half of which upon occasion were able to bear Arms : Should I tell this among the Christians , I should hardly be believed ; for they please themselves in debasing the numbers and courage of the Turks , and perhaps it is a stratagem of the Venetians to wheedle their Allies : So among them the Turkish Army must not be above thirty thousand strong . 'T is true , about a year since , the Plague and incommodities of the Army had reduced them to that number : and I know at Tunis ( where I was at that time ) the Turks confessed it themselves , to excuse the smallness of their Progress ; they pretended likewise that the Town of Candia stood upon an impenetrable , inaccessible Rock , and was defended by a Garrison of sixty thousand men . It was great pleasure to hear how they magnified our numbers , and the strength of the City , and yet kept us all in with an Army of twenty five thousand men at the most : Not that the Emperour could have wanted more men , but the Vizer in gallantry had made an Oath , with that small number of Turks to beat and destroy the sixty thousand lubberly Christians that had pin'd themselves up in that inaccessible Rock . That was a day of great Execution ; one of the Turks Mines blew up a Post of the Christians near Saint Andre , where many a brave man of the Garrison perished ; the Vizer was in no little danger himself , for having laid aside his Perspective , and advanced in the Trenches to the very Ditch of the Town , to survey their Works , and observe his advantage , he stood personally exposed to all the fire from the Garrison for a complete half hour together , and Kiaca-Bey the Lieutenant General of the Janizaries was shot in the Arm , not two steps from him ; the Vizer when he saw it , with an angry kind of smile , said , I think these rude Christians would not have us Celebrate our Bayram to day : but for all that , he stirred not till a Lodgement was finished that he had ordered , and to that end , he caused his dinner to be brought to him into the Trenches . The rest of the day was spent in Dounama , or publick rejoycing : The Turks according to their custome on their Bayrams send one another Presents , as we do at New-years-tide . One Janizary gives his Camerade Tobacco , and he to requite it , takes him to the Sutlers , and gives him a dish of Coffee , or strong waters . The Vizer augmented the pay of those who did any thing signally ; if their pay was six Aspers before , he advanced it to twelve ; and God knows what emulation and courage that raised in the several Oda's : The Principal Officers regal'd the Grand Vizer . The Beglerby of Natolia sent him six black Eunuch Boys , and received from him a rich Saber or Sword of a more than ordinary temper . The Vizer sent a noble Tent to Zambatag-Ogli-Houssekni . Such of the Spahi as had been defective in their duties , and were to be drubb'd , according to their discipline of War , were pardon'd in respect of that day ; as also such of the Janizaries , as for their misdemeanours were condemned to be beaten with cudgels on their buttocks . A Timariot or Teskerectis that before was worth but five or six thousand Aspers a year , was advanced to a Teskereber , or a Timar of twenty thousand pound . Some of the Janizaries produced the heads of Christians that they had concealed three or four days together , to have their recompence inlarged that day . The Kaimacan gave three Sequins to a Pioner for having taken a pair of Gloves from a Christian ; and to take a pair of Gloves is looked upon as a great prize , for the Turks wearing none themselves , 't is no easie matter to come by them any other way . I saw the Vizer as he passed to the Eouylai , ( which is one of their services of devotion ) he was talking to Mehemet-Aga his Kiaia , or Intendant of his house , an honest man , moderate , and one who has done many good offices to the Christians . The Grand Vizer was going to his own Mosque , for he had one belonging to his own Quarters , to which none but his own servants resorted . He has alwayes five or six Imans or Priests which attend him in the Army to perform Divine Service , and every great Officer has two or three . The Vizer was attended by a throng of Officers , and select men of his Troops that followed him in confusion . At the head of the Procession were ten Trumpets , and as many Bag-pipes playing and sounding before him : There was likewise a Touke or kind of a Banner with seven horse tails fastned to a Pike ; but the other Touks carried before the other Officers had fewer according to the difference of their qualities , six tails before a Beglerbey , and two before a Bachas . When prayers were done , he treated all the Officers and three Oda's or Companies who had performed very well in a late action . He never dines alone , but sends alwayes for the Officers that come off the Guards , that either at dinner or afterwards they may give him an account of their proceedings . He loves good Meat , but abhors Wine ; contrary to the humour of his Father , who delighted in it exceedingly . He diverts himself sometimes a Hunting , sometimes at Chess , and takes great pleasure in seeing his Officers dance . He had with him besides , seven or eight Hoingi , or Dancing-Masters , who danced to two or three Base-Vials , or Instruments very like them : Sometimes they danced alone , sometimes two and two , and sometimes more : They dance likewise with a sort of Castignettes , and do very well : These dancers have upon them little strait wastcoats that come down to their girdle , from whence they have a kind of petticoats ( like our Women ) which come down to the ground , and are very wide ; and their great dexterity being in turning swiftly and long upon one foot , the wind getting under their petticoats fills them up like a sail : In this posture the Hoingi will bow , plunge , leap up again , appear and disappear with strange promptitude and exactness . There was one thing I thought remarkable ; Not long since in Turkie there was a sort of Religious Mahumetans called Dervis , whose Devotion consisted in dancing in their Mosques , which they would perform with indefatigable swiftness : The Vizer having driven them lately out of Romulia , those who had no mind to go so far as their Principal Covent at Cogna in Asia , turned Hoingi , and danced as eagerly for Money as ever they had done for Devotion . In the Evening the Grand Vizer took Horse , and rode to Eina-die , or New-Candia , to confer with Fateim Kadun , who was come thither to meet him , from her Quarters at Philopoli , which is a great House standing upon the Road betwixt Candia and Girapietra . Nothing passed in the Siege , nor indeed in the whole Empire , but the Vizer imparted it to his Mother . She brought with her into Candia forty or fifty Eunuchs , two thirds of which number are imployed constantly all over Turkie for intelligence : All news from Larissa is conveyed by some or other of them , I say news , because Orders are sent always by other people . The greatest resolves are still concerted betwixt her and her Son ; and the supplyes of Men or Money were managed for the most part by their Eunuchs , for which the Vizer's Slaves bare them no good will : It was so much money out of their pockets , and their gain was so great , that it was reported some months since , two single Voyages were worth to one of Fateima's Eunuchs above twenty thousand Crowns . The Eleventh at night , the Vizer's Quarters was all in Arms , upon Alarm of a Mine which the Venetians sprang before the Fort of Saint Andre : There were slain in that business above sixty Janizaries , most of them Officers , as good as any in the Army , and all of them the Vizer's Creatures ; and it was reported , that the Venetians to improve their advantage , were sallying out of the Town ; but that was but a report . The twelfth of May in the Morning I saw several Companies of Janizaries come to bid their Chor-baggi's or Captains good morrow , and 't is it seems their custome every morning . To requite their Civility , the Captains present every Souldier with a dish of Coffee , which is the only thing that ever they return them . When a Souldier is killed , his cloaths go to the Chor-baggi , but his Arms and the Money about him is delivered to the Treasurer-General of the Army , who is accountable for it to the Vizer : But the Money passing through the hands of the Chor-baggi , to whom the body is brought off to be stripped , does many times stick to his fingers , and come short to the Treasurer . But if a Janizary be mortally wounded , and has time to make his Will , he may bequeath what he pleases to the Souldiers of his own Oda , to supply their necessities : They are paid but once in three months , and , as I said before , their pay is unequal . The new raised men have but six Aspers a day , which is about three pence half penny of ours ; and those who have most have but twelve pence , but then the Grand Signior finds them Victuals : Their allowance to six Souldiers is a dish of Rice , and about a pound of bread to a Man ; every fourth day they have six ounces of flesh , and their drink is all out of the River of Giofiro : they may supply one another out of their pay or their plunder , but they must be sure to keep touch with their Sutlers , and have a care of committing the least insolence towards them . At first it was death for a Janizary to drink Wine , and they made it a point of Religion , because of the Seditions which their drunkenness had produced ; but of late , the severity of that Law has been turned upon the Sutlers who furnish them ; and the Janizary escapes with fifty good blows upon the buttocks , inflicted punctually by the Oda Baschi , or Lieutenant of the Company , with a good cudgel . When a Turkish Souldier has done any thing that deserves death , they dare not execute him publickly , but he is strangled in private , which in my judgement argues a weakness in the Government and Authority of their Officers : But the Janizaries look upon it as a respect to men of the Sword ; for the whole Empire being nothing but their conquest and acquisition , it is but suitable to the Dignity and Justice of their Monarch , to have their errours and offences concealed , and their persons preserved from publick infamy and disgrace . I had alwayes hitherto a great curiosity to be prying into their Trenches , and observe the disposition of their Works ; but it fell now to my share , and I could not avoid it . The danger was great , and death never so manifest to me as now . The being exposed to the continual shooting from the Town , was the least of my trouble ; but the fear of being discovered by the Turks , and punished as a spie , was a thing that stuck very close to me , and made me almost repent my curiosity that had brought me to Candia . I repaired forthwith to my old Confident Osman Chelebi , and told him how it stood , who smiling , told me , If I could secure my self from the one , he would bring me off from the danger of the other . His Friends had solicited so effectually for his Timar , that it was time for him to think of doing something extraordinary : Every Timariot is obliged to bring as many men to the War , as he has times three three thousand Aspers in the revenue of his Timar , and those ●hen are called Gebelous . In Candia the●r imployment was only to carry Earth , or be serviceable to their great Guns : Osman Chelebi according to his share was to find four of these Gebelous : In complement I must needs make one of them , to save him that expence . I did not at first consider the thing , nor imagine I had been serving against the Christians ; if I had , I should have made more scruple , and perhaps pretended conscience in the case . I expected , that by the favour of some Officer of his acquaintance , I should have been excused , if I had advanced about a hundred paces into the Trenches , when the Guards had been relieved , which might have been done without any great hazards , that time being the least dangerous , for if the Christians had sallied to disturb them , they would have had upon their hands the Troops that came off , as well as those that went on to relieve them ; but I reckoned without mine Host . I attended Osman Chelebi to the Tent of the Grand Engineer of the Ottoman Army called Isouf Meymar Azem , Meymar being the title which they give to any Eminent Engineer or Architect . We went with him to the Seraile of the Topigi Bachi , or Grand Master of their Artillery . This Officer ( one of the most considerable in the Empire ) was a poor Mariner at Constantinople who lived upon ten or twelve pence a day , by crossing the water betwixt Constantinople and Pera : He put himself among the Officers of the Artillery , and passed with them into Candia , where the Grand Vizir having displaced the Topigi upon some exception against him , and observing this Mariner to be very handy and dexterous at removing and ordering the Cannon for the Batteries , advanced him to that Office , and made him Topigi Bachi , quite contrary to the practice in our Countries . Among the Christians a man of Birth and no Merit , shall be sure to make his Fortune ; among the Turks a man of Merit , let his Extraction be what it will , shall be sure to be preferred . With the Topigi Bachi we found a great number of Topigilers or Cannoneers and Gebegilers , or people that have care of keeping the Arms , and preparing their Fire-works ; to be short , every man being to be imployed , they clapped a Scuttle at my back , and a Mattock into my hand , and thought they did me a great deal of honour , for of three hundred Ziams , Timars , and Gebelous that were waiting for Orders , I was the first that was provided : Osman Chelebi himself put on the same harness , and being to furnish three more Gebelours , he picked out three miserable Greeks , who for six Aspers a piece , suffered themselves to be tied by the legs with a thick Cord ( like Pigs leading to the Market ) for fear they should escape into the Town , which they do as often as they can . I had been tied with the rest , but that Osman Chelebi undertook for my Fidelity , which turned much to my disadvantage ; for the Meymar believing me well affected thereupon , did me the favour to put me among those who were to throw the Grenadoes , and at that time were appointed to run up to the Christians Works , and pull away their bags of Wool and Earth , wherewith they had faced their Redoubts ; and this was to be done in haste , when the Enemy was hottest a firing ; to coxe me , they told me by this means I should have opportunity to be one of the first that should cut off the Christians heads ; and indeed of fifty heads that were brought off , above thirty were cut off by those Grenado men ; and they perswaded me moreover , that two heads wou●d do my business , and make my Fortune for ever . Then it was I began to repent me of my forwardness , and I vowed solemnly to God Almighty , that if I went on with these Grenadeers , I would if possible , escape into the Town , and lose my life there to expiate my impious curiosity : In order to my Grenadiership , they had taken my Scuttle off my back , and put a linnen bagg full of Grenadoes about my shoulders like a scarff ; but it came into my mind to tell them , that I feared I was not dexterous enough for that service , and desired that they would rather put me among those who were to pull down the Palisadoes ; for , lest I should render my self suspected , I thought it not sit to decline one service , and recommend my self to another that was not so dangerous ; yet I had my reason , for that time was not altogether proper for pulling down Palisadoes ; the best time for that being after a rain , when fastning ropes to them , they can loosen them with more ease ; or else in a great wind , by firing Bavins under them : To gratifie my request they let me alone with my Scuttle and Mattock , and away I marched with a Rascally Renegado , who , during our attaque , had orders to run away into the Town , and inform himself of its condition . They had given him his Lesson , as Osman Chelebi told me , and directed him to tell strange stories out of the Camp , to make him the more credible to the Christians . He had instructions to tell them , That the Vizir inraged at the cowardize of his Troops , had killed three Officers with his own hand ; that they were almost starved in the Camp , the Soldiers mutining every day , and the Grand Signior resolved to cut off the Vizir's head , if the Town were not taken in a month ; and that as a mark of his displeasure to the Grand Vizir , he had sent to him to deliver a rich Vest and a Sabre that he had given him not long before ; by such stories as these they too often delude the poor Christians . By the way we met a party of Gionoullous or Voluntiers , who follow the Army at their own charges in hopes by some great action to merit a Timar , which is the usual recompence the Vizir bestows upon such persons ; but then they must wait for a vacancy , and they will be sure to have an eye upon them . As we passed them we heard two or three of these Gionoullous , seeing our Ziams and Timariots marching upon service , wish good luck to the Christian Musquets , that they might make room for them ; and indeed those Timariots are never drawn out for an attaque , but the Ginoullous send their prayers along with them , that they may never return . We passed on to the first Trenches which the Turks had made upon the Rock , for having brought their Approaches so far , they could not any way secure themselves but by bringing Earth from other places . When I saw their Trenches , I was amazed to think how the Christians had described them : 'T is true , they are not made so methodically as ours , with lines parallel to the front of the place besieged . The way of the Turks is to advance as much as they can , and every forty paces to make an elbow or little turning , which yet does not hinder their line . Their Intrenchments or Approaches are twice as broad as ours , which at the bottom are at most but seven or nine foot ; whereas the Turks Trenches , when the ground will permit , are fifteen or sixteen foot wide , that the Troops appointed to sustain the Pioneers , may make a large front the better to repel the Salleys of the Garrison . One thing I observed among them that is practised among us , They never begin to post their Soldiers in the Trenches till they have brought their approaches to the Counter-scarpe ; for till they be advanced thither their Troops are lodged in the Redoubts , or places of Arms. Their places of Arms are open behind like ours , for the better drawing themselves into Battalia to repulse a Salley . Their Redoubts are generally faced with Stone : Their Trenches are made with Blindes , and their Blinds are made with thick pieces of Timber covered over with Faggots , and Earth upon them to shelter the Pioneers while they are at work . We drew out about fifty or sixty Pioneers to repair a battery which the Canon from the Town had beaten down . I saw some of their Guns there that carried six and twenty pound Bullet . From this Platform it was , that looking towards their works , I saw as it were a Forest of Palisado's that frighted me exceedingly : Imagine you saw a great Battalion of Pikes , with their Pikes advanced ; their works were set as thick with Palisado's , whereas in some places , the Palisado's in the opposite works were ten foot asunder . The ground had been blown up a hundred times by the Mines of one side or the other . In short there was not one foot to spare , but immediately some Trench or other was thrown up in it ; either a Bonnette , a Caponniere , or an Antestature , and that you may not be perplexed with those terms , being a sort of works almost quite unknown in France , I shall explain them as follows . The Bonnette is a kind of Ravelin set round with Palisado's ; 't is filled three foot thick with Earth to cover them from shot , but without any Ditch . The Antestatures are little Traverses or Retrenchments thrown up in haste with bags of Earth , or Palisado's in some place that they cannot keep entire , but the Enemy having possessed themselves of one part they would willingly preserve the rest . In spight of the danger I was in , I could not but admire that prodigious ground where more than once or twice ten thousand men had been imployed a month together , to force a single man back but four yards . No ground in the world did ever cost so dear , though it were a Mine of Gold. The possession of four Fathoms of ground in Candia , had been in dispute above twenty years , and gained at last with Rivers of blood , and many times the best blood in Europe . But I was taken from my contemplations to work in a Gallery that was to be carried on to the very wall of the Town . A Gallery is a way under-ground carried on under the Enemies works for the passage of the Miner when he goes to prepare the Chamber of the Mine , with intention to blow up some work . The Galleries of both parties do often meet , and then they who can drive out the other , either with sire or smoke , are masters of both , and the vanquished must retire . We no sooner struck a stroke with our Mattocks , but we clap'd our Ears to the ground to listen whether the Christians were not at work as well as we ; for many times both sides are working not above a foot from one another . At some times , and in some places the Pioneers for fear of being heard , have been glad to loosen the Earth with their Nails , or work it out with the point of their Knives . If any Mine be near , 't is immediately sprung , to blow up the Pioneers , and oftentimes the condition of the Earth deceiving the Engineer that causes it to be blown up , falls back upon those who gave fire to the Mine , and the great art is to make them evaporate . In the little time I was digging there , I met more bones and carkases of men than shovels-full of earth ; Sometimes I digged a man up from under my feet , and perhaps had I digged there but one hour before , I might have found him alive , and had him begg'd of me to pull him out . I must confess I had at that time great horrours upon me , and being perceived by a young Turk that had been used to the Trade , I was laught at for my pains . Upon the same occasion he had many times leaped into the Christians Galleries , and brought away several of their Heads : He told our Camerades aloud that I was so afraid of the Swords of the Venetians , that he saw me three or four times put my hand to my neck to feel whether my head was not cut off . I opened my Eyes as well as my Ears to inform my self whether the Christians were not at work near me , and to speak truth , for the security of my head I found an obligation upon me to have a care how I slept in that Quarter . At length the Mine being fitted , we retired to see it play ; when we came forth of the Gallery we saw several Janizaries laughing to see us in that condition : There is a mortal hatred betwixt the Janizaries and the Timariots , for the Janizaries being never imployed but at handy-strokes , have them in contempt who are imployed in the Mines . Osman Chelebi was not a person that would be abused , and therefore seeing one of the Janizaries deriding him , told him , You are a happy man , for I have digg'd you a hole to hide your self in . Another Timariot that was not commanded along with us , but expected us when we came off , at the end of the Gallery , came to congratulate with one of his friends , and embracing him , demanded , Do you come back empty handed ? have you made your fortune upon the Christians , and brought ever a head along with you ? Yes one , ( replied his friend ) and that is my own , which I assure you was in no little danger . 'T is not to be imagined how much the Janizaries despise the Timariots , and all the Spahi in general . They call them in derision Sinek , which is as much as Flies , and this the Spahi are forced to indure , because of the authority and strict union among those sort of people : The nick-name that the Spahi and Timariots give the Janizaries , is Toslouk , or Buskins , because they wear such kind of things about their Legs , but then they will be sure to be the stronger , or they will never venture to provoke them . At the same time that we gave fire to our Mine , the besieged sprung two of their own : It was a dismal spectacle to behold the Men and the Earth thrown up promiscuously into the Air , and the smoke being but little , gave us that lamentable convenience . Some of the Christians were blown alive into the Trenches of the Turks ; and some of the Turks wasted into the Ditch , others upon the Ramparts of the Town with their Arms in their Hands . It was like a horrible shower of flesh to behold the separated Members come down , whilst others were bruised and blown about from one side to another . We ran with all speed to disingage such as were buried alive ; some we found only frighted , without any hurt . They shew me an Azappe , or one of their Perdu's , who had been twice digged out of the ground ; but all were not so happy , for some of them were half buried , stuck fast from the Girdle downwards , and cried out with all their might , but they had as good have been quite under ground , for the Christians ran out and chopped off their heads . The effect of these three Mines was only to have blown up some of the Guards ; to have destroyed some Works ; and in some measure inlarged the Breaches . The quantity of Powder required for a Mine , is fifteen , sixteen , sometimes Twenty , and Five and Twenty Barrels , according to the weight and thickness of the ground they would blow up . The Venetians to blow up the Placca made use of a Hundred and Fifty Barrels , and they were no more than was necessary , being to blow up a Rock of Two and Twenty foot thick . It was in my power to have learned the construction of their superficial Furnaces as they called them in Candia where only they are in use ; but I had not that curiosity , and indeed I found I had had already too much . Osman Chelebi came to Complement me at my coming out of the Works ; and to cajole me , told me I had done wonders . That it was taken notice of by the Turks , that I was to value my self much upon their approbation : That I should doubtless have the honour to be continued , and be by degrees infallibly advanced to some imployment more worthy my address . He told me moreover , that there was a design on foot , to commit the conduct and firing of one of their superficial Furnaces to me ; and the manner of those Furnaces is thus . Three or four Bombes or Fire-balls are shut up close in a Wooden Box , and the Box conveyed as near the Enemies Work as possible ; when 't is as near as you can get , you hide it in the ground , and cover it over with earth . There is nothing in the world better , nor quicker at ruining an Approach : There is no great difficulty to give fire to it , because it may be done with a Saucidge ( as they call them ) or a Train , at what distance you please . The great danger is in placing the Box , which though done for the most part in the night , does not make it altogether safe ; for the Engineer is obliged to have a special care of his head . Osman Chelebi presented me with one of them , but God knows how joyfully I received it . The Christian Engineers have no sooner invented a new way , either for their Fortifications or Fire-works , but the Meymars have present advertisement by some of the Renegado's from the Town . The stories they have told of him in the Camp , have not only discovered but recommended to the estimation of the Turks , the Inventions and Experiments of the Chevalier Verneda , who commands all the Engineers in the Garison ; and the address and dexterity of Giovine who is excellent at Countermines . I found it was not true ( though I had often been told it ) that there were certain well disciplined Troops of Christians in the Turkish Service . At the beginning of the Siege indeed , the Turks being willing to have wheedled the Greek Nobless that belonged to the Isle of Sfacciottes , did promise them free exercise of their Religion if they would serve against the Venetian ; but they were so far from accepting the Proposal , that to show their detestation , during the first years of the Mahumetan Invasion , they made the Turks sensible of their indignation and courage , by many atchievements against them . Of this Island of Sfacciottes were the famous Colonels , Zymbi , Balzamo , and Calamo , of whom the Caloger at Athens had given so fair a character , and of whose bravery I may perhaps give you a relation hereafter . Many of the Inhabitants were Originally Italians , from whence their Fore-fathers had been invited by the Grecian Emperours into the said Island after the devastation made in it by the Sarazens . I must needs confess I have slept better than I did the twelfth of May at Night ; I fancied my self called every moment to go away with my superficial Furnace , and see it do execution : I had no maw to the Service , I found my Conscience not so good proof against the remorses I felt for having served against the Christians already ; and if you will have the truth , perhaps there was some little mixture of fear . But the 13 th of May in the morning beyond my expectation , Osman Chelebi having left me three hours before , came back again to me in great haste , and told me he had a request to me that I must not deny him : I thought of nothing but that I had been to go along with him upon service , to enter some Breach , or spring some Mine with him ; but he told me I must needs do him the favour to return to Emporion for him , for the Grand Vizer had given him a very good Timar in those parts ; he himself being unable to quit the service , was constrained to desire the courtesie of me to carry his Letters of Provision to his Father in Law , and to press him to take possession of the Timar , by turning out a person who by surprize had got a Grant of it from the Beglerbey of Romulia ; My Spirits began immediately to revive : He needed no such fine language to perswade me , I offered my self with the greatest willingness imaginable , not so much as straining a complement so far as to let him know how much pain and trouble it would be to me , to leave him behind : He gave me his dispatches under the hand and seal of the Vizer's Caimacan . The Caimacan is an Officer considerable , has a share in the Civil Affairs , and manages them in part . In all Turkie there are never but three contemporary Caimacans , and sometimes but two : One is constantly Resident at Constantinople ; another alwayes attends the Grand Signior , and if the Grand Vizer be remote from the Court , he has another with him ; but when he returns to the Sultan's Court , that Caimacan is suspended . The Grand Vizer's Caimacan was like a Secretary of State , or President of the Council , and at that time had the Superintendency of the Army in Candia . A Saique being in ten dayes time to depart from Fraskia , it was resolved I should take that opportunity to pass into Greece , so that as it pleased God , I sate still in the Camp all the 13 th of May , not troubled with the fatigues or dangers of the Mattock and Scuttle ; and Osman hired some of the Azappes and Greek Pioneers to discharge the Duty that was upon him in respect of his Timar . In the Evening one of the Christians running to us out of the Town , brought News that one of our Bombes falling into the Bas●ion of Saint Andre had killed the Magnifico Cornaro Proveditor General for the Republick of Venice , a Person , who being the very Soul of their Army , gave the Christians the greatest occasion of Consternation that they had hitherto expressed ; and the Turks on the other side , that their Joy might hold some proportion with the sadness of their Enemy , testified it by their continual Salvo's both from their Cannon and Small-shot . It was above a Twelvemonth since the Vizer had Summoned the Town . Upon this accident he caused a White Flag to be hung out , and sent them a Summons ; but the Christians reposing still upon the Conduct of the Marquess de Saint Andre , by their great Firing gave him to understand that they were not yet reduced to Terms of Capitulation : Whereupon for the incouragement of his Camp , the Vizer caused it to be spread abroad , that he expected within three or four dayes an Ambassador from Venice to beg Peace upon his knee ; adding , that Venice it self was Tumultuous and full of Factions upon the protraction of the War ; and that the People being ruined and exhaust with insupportable Taxes , were ready upon the first opportunity to throw themselves under the protection of the Turks : This was the great Artifice of their General , and the common discourse and belief of his whole Army . To conclude , I departed from the Camp the 21. of May , with a Pass-port from the Caimacan , and Letters from Osman Chelebi : About midnight I arrived at Fraskia , where I embarked in the aforesaid Saique , and left the Coast full of Horsemen , who at that time kept better and more exact Guards than formerly , upon expectation of a descent by the Troops of the League , and the Christian Princes : They had News already that their several Fleets were come out , some from Thoulon , some from Civita-Vecchia , and some from Malta ; and the Renegadoes had made the Camp ring with the names of the Generalissimo Vincenzo Rospigliosi , of the Duke de Beaufort , the Duke de Navailles , the Comte de Vivonne , and the Chevalier Acarigi General of the Gallies of Malta ; So that 't is an errour to believe the Turks are ignorant of the very particulars of our Affairs , when it is their interest to know them : The English and Dutch Vessels which are imployed daily in carrying over Men and Ammunition to Canea , do tell them all our designs : 'T is true , by an effect of their great courage and prudence , the Turks do not seem to regard it ; yet they have their constant Intelligences , and make preparations privately against them ; and sometimes 't is possible they are abused , as the Christians are : however let their reports or assurances as to this approaching great action be what it will , God grant there may be a good understanding betwixt the Commanders of the several Nations which make up the Succours expected ; If there be , it may please God they may prosper , if otherwise , there is great danger they will miscarry . 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