Remarks upon the manners, religion and government of the Turks together with a survey of the seven churches of Asia, as they now lye in their ruines, and a brief description of Constantinople / by Tho. Smith ... Epistolae duae. English Smith, Thomas, 1638-1710. 1678 Approx. 383 KB of XML-encoded text transcribed from 176 1-bit group-IV TIFF page images. Text Creation Partnership, Ann Arbor, MI ; Oxford (UK) : 2005-12 (EEBO-TCP Phase 1). A60582 Wing S4246 ESTC R4103 12085078 ocm 12085078 53701 This keyboarded and encoded edition of the work described above is co-owned by the institutions providing financial support to the Early English Books Online Text Creation Partnership. This Phase I text is available for reuse, according to the terms of Creative Commons 0 1.0 Universal . The text can be copied, modified, distributed and performed, even for commercial purposes, all without asking permission. Early English books online. (EEBO-TCP ; phase 1, no. A60582) Transcribed from: (Early English Books Online ; image set 53701) Images scanned from microfilm: (Early English books, 1641-1700 ; 580:13) Remarks upon the manners, religion and government of the Turks together with a survey of the seven churches of Asia, as they now lye in their ruines, and a brief description of Constantinople / by Tho. Smith ... Epistolae duae. English Smith, Thomas, 1638-1710. [15], 328 [i.e. 326], [10] p. Printed for Moses Pitt ..., London : 1678. Errata: prelim. p. [15]. Advertisement: p. [1]-[10] at end. Marginal notes. Translation of the author's Epistolae duae, London, 1672. Reproduction of original in Union Theological Seminary Library, New York. Created by converting TCP files to TEI P5 using tcp2tei.xsl, TEI @ Oxford. Re-processed by University of Nebraska-Lincoln and Northwestern, with changes to facilitate morpho-syntactic tagging. 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D. Hen. Epis . 〈…〉 a Sacris Dom. ●●●7 . REMARKS Upon the MANNERS , RELIGION And GOVERNMENT Of the TURKS . Together with A Survey of the SEVEN CHURCHES OF ASIA , As they now lye in their Ruines : AND A Brief Description of CONSTANTINOPLE . By Tho. Smith , B. D. and Fellow of St. Mary Magdalen College Oxon. London , Printed for Moses Pitt , at the Angel in St. Pauls Church-yard , M. DC.LXX.VIII . TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE , Sir Joseph Williamson KNIGHT , ONE OF HIS MAJESTIES Principal Secretaries of STATE , AND Of his most Honourable PRIVY COUNCIL : These Observations of Travels in Turkey are humbly presented by the AUTHOR , His HONOVRS CHAPLAIN . TO THE READER . IT had been a matter of no great difficulty to have presented you , instead of this short Essay , with a large Volume , if I had either affected or designed , when I first took my pen in hand , to have written a full history of the Religion , Manners and Government of the Turks , or had tho●ght fit to have stuffed these M●moires with accompts of things trivial and common , which have been said too often already and which are to be met with in every little Relation . But I was not in the least tempted to such a piece of vanity and ostentation : and indeed I thought it very much beneath ●ne to do this ; especially when I reflected I was writing Letters to an Excellent Person , who by his studies and travels , and many honourable employments both at home and in forrain parts had acquired a perfect knowledge of the state of affairs , not only of Christendom , but also of all other remoter Countries ; and who deserved to be treated with greater respect and ceremony , by me especially , that owe the opportunity I gained of travelling into the Levant to his most obliging and effectual recommendation . So that brevity was my choice , and I was oftentimes more sollicitous and concerned to consider what not then what to write . That I have done what I proposed to my self , and have made good my pretensions , neither my fears nor my modesty will permit me to be over-confident : But I have this , I will not say to justifie , but to excuse at least my presumption and forwardness , that if I had known these things to have been satisfactorily accompted for by others , I should not have troubled either my self or you . These accompts , which upon my return home to Oxon I published there in Latine , I am in a manner necessitated to translate into English , tho with some few enlargements , to prevent the doing of it by another , which I had just reason to apprehend . For a worthy person , who has often condescended to this kind of drudgery for the publick benefit , was so just and civil , as to ask my leave to do it ; which I did not think fit to grant : but whether for the better or the worse I must not say . If the thread of a Church-man be perceived to run through the whole Relation , I hope this will be so far from being a just exception or prejudice to it , that it may gain some little credit and reputation with you upon that accompt ; if not the performance , the design at least , I easily perswade my self will not be disallowed . It is not only to gratifie your curiosity , but to serve you in better and nobler ends ; whereof this is the chiefest , that being more and more convinced by such kind of relations , of the brutish ignorance and horrid barbarousness of the Turks , and of the dotages and follies of their worship , you may the more thankfully and seriously reflect upon that most blessed and merciful providence , which has cast your lot in Christendom , and in a Countrey especially , where the Christian Doctrine is profest in its primitive purity and integrity , and where civility and learning , and all ingenuous Arts flourish , and are in their heigth and perfection . The accompt of my voyage to the Churches of Asia , all but the begining and end , I wrote in Smyrna out of my Diary , for the satisfaction of my fellow-travellers , who were pleased to demand Copies of me . And I hope what I have done in this kind will not in the least hinder any of those worthy and ingenious persons , who have made the same tour before or since , from publishing their Journals : this argument being capable of continual enlargements , especially in the matter of Inscriptions . This would be of very great advantage to learning , of which there cannot possibly be a greater proof than in those marbles which were brought out of Greece , and the lesser Asia at the expence of that great man , Thomas Earl of Arundel , and which by the most generous favour of the illustrious , Henry Earl of Norwich and Earl Marshal , now serve to adorn the area about the Theater at Oxon : and especially the Parian marble , which contains the most famous Epochas of the ancient Greeks , by the help of which many difficulties in History and Chronology have been cleared ; as Mr. Selden , Mr. Lydiat , the right Reverend and most profoundly learned , the present Lord Bishop of Chester , the most accomplisht Sir John Marsham , and Mr. Prideaux , the learned Publisher of the Marmora Oxoniensia have shewn in several instances . And of what great use several other inscriptions are , for the adjusting and settling the accompts of time , and rectifying the Fasti Consulares , will better appear , when the Reverend and most judiciously learned Doctor William Lloyd Dean of Bangor shall think fit to publish those things of this kind , which he has been pleased to shew me in his Collections . An incredible number of marbles still remain behind in those parts , and others are continually dug up , ( the erecting of these having been formerly the pride and gallantry of the Greeks ) and what might be purchased upon no very hard terms , if some excellent persons would be at the expence of enriching their Countrey with the spoils of the East . I have often lamented the misfortune , which drove me from Hierapolis after the short stay of two or three hours , where I believe I could have employed my self for a week or fortnight to very good purpose : and that neither my necessary attendance npon the Ambassador and the Nation , nor my small stock of money afterward , when I was at liberty , would permit me to travel to Nice , Nicomedia , Ancyra , Iconium , and several other places , where I heard were numerous and famous ruines ; but especially to Monte Santo , as they call Mount Athos , to look after Greek Manuscripts . But I hope other Travellers will be more fortunate , and better encouraged than I have been , and will one day make the world happy with their discoveries , and receive the reward of their generous adventures and undertakings , when God shall restore them to their native Countrey . Lastly , I have added a short description of Constantinople , which I readily acknowledge to be far from accurate and perfect , not designing in the least , when I was upon the place , to have done any such thing ; and therefore I contented my self only to put down some short notices to relieve my memory . I soon was made sensible , by passing up and down the streets of that great City , that the scite and sceleton , if I may use the word , of the ancient buildings only remains , the beauty and glory of them being lost , since the Turks became Masters of it : And as when I was at the Churches ( an idea of which they may easily have , who have seen the Abbey of Glastenbury or Thetford , or will but call to mind the deplorable ruines of London after the dismal fire ) so when I considered the present state and condition of Constantinople , I was oftentimes perplext and in doubt , whether I was more to admire the piety and munificence of those , who raised such stately and glorious structures , or the brutishness and barbarousness of those , who pulled them down . But I soon laid my hand upon my mouth , when I further considered , that sacriledge had done the like to several goodly houses of Religion and Learning in Christendom , and that it was wholly owing to the miraculous providence of God , who laid a restraint upon the mad and impious zeal of some of the prevailing faction in the late times of usurpation , ( when the revenue of the Church became a prey to their covetousness ) that the Cathedrals , which are the wonder of all ingenious forrainers , and one of the standing glorys of England , had not been laid wast and levelled with the ground , and turned into confused heaps of stone and rubbish , like Ephesus or Laodecea . A reflexion upon which sad times should make us detest those seditious and fanatical principles , which if they should once prevail , and be received as good Christian Doctrine , as they were most unhappily not many years since , we have just reason to fear they would bring as great desolations along with them as any that are now in Turkey . T. S. Stanhop-house , All Saints day . 1677. ERRATA . PAge 1. line 14. for hath , read have , p. 5 l. 16. r. do , p. 7. l. 7. r. estates , p. 13. l. 25. r. the mysteries of the Christian Religion , p. 17. l. 14. r. Omar , sp . 18. l. 2. r. taken , l. 13. for that , read as , p. 27. l. 17. r. and which , p. 32. l. 26. r. on , p. 30. l. 10. r. the Emp●e , p. 13. l. 17. 22. r. were , p. 36. l. 8. dele out , p. 45. l. 19. r. in the afternoon , though not constantly , p. 50. l. 20. r. how far , p. 75. l. 24. r. on which , p. 80. l. 5. for some , read several , p. 71. l. r. convenience , p. 77. l. 24. as it is , p. 86. l. 15. Rum-ili ▪ p. 105. l. 4. provision made for them , and water , p. 119. l. 19. fear , p. 123. l. 18. the first , p. 131. l. 21. ( as well as at Buda and Bagdat ) p. 137. l. 20. for but , read as , p. 149. l. 15. for sorts , read arts , p. 165. l. 19. of , p. 167. l. 25. dele his , p. 190. l. 4. such a , p. 196. l. 17. heard , p. 203. l. 20. upon hearing , p. 243. l. 15. l. 19. I found , p. 247. l. 13. turn , p. 248. l. 7. . , 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 , p. 181. l. 2. read past , p. 301. l. 14. nor , p. 302. l. 22. jetting . p. 281. l. 2. past , p. 318. l. 14. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 , p. 320. l. 1. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 , p. 321. l. 15. a long time since . REMARKS upon the MANNERS , RELIGION , and GOVERNMENT of the TURKS . THE Turks are justly branded with the character of a Barbarous Nation ; which censure does not relate either to the cruelty and severity of their punishments , which their natural fierceness , not otherwise to be restrain'd , renders necessary and essential to their Government ; or to want of Discipline , for that in most things is very exact , and agreeable to the Laws and Rules of Polity , which Custom and Experience hath established as the grand support of their Empire ; or to want of civil Behaviour among themselves , for none can outwardly be more respectful and submissive , especially to their Superiors , in whose power it is to do them a mischief , the fear of which makes them guilty of most base compliances : But to the intolerable Pride and Scorn wherewith they treat all the World besides . Their Temper and Genius , the Constitution of their Government , and the Principles of their Education enclining them to War , where Valour and Merit are sure to be encouraged , and have their due reward ; They have neither leisure nor inclination to entertain the studies of Learning or the Civil Arts , which take off the roughness and wildness of nature , and render men more agreeable in their conversation . And though they are forced to commend and admire the ingenuity of the Western Christians , when they see any Mathematical Instrument , curious Pictures , Map , or Sea-Charts , or open the Leaves of any Printed Book , or the like ; yet they look upon all this as a curiosity , that not only may be spared , but what ought to be carefully avoided , and kept out of their Empire , as tending to soften mens minds , and render them less fit for Arms , which they look upon as the best and truest end of life , to enlarge their Greatness and their Conquests . But it is not so much their want of true and ingenuous Learning , which makes them thus intractable and rude to Strangers , as a rooted and inveterate prejudice against , and hatred of all others who are of a different Religion . It is not to be expected , that where this principle prevails , and is look'd upon as a piece of Religion and Duty , they who embrace it should be guilty of any act of kindness and humanity ; except when they are bribed to it with hope of reward and gain , or forced to it by the necessities of state , or wrought upon more powerfully , as it were against their wills by the resentments of some favours and kindnesses receiv'd , which may happen now and then in some of better natures and more generous tempers . How mean and contemptible thoughts and opinions soever we have of any , yet common humanity obligeth us to restrain and keep them in from breaking out in scurrilous and reproachful language , especially when there is no provocation ; but the rude malice of the Turks scorns to submit to these general rules of civility , who are so far from being sensible of the indecency of it , that they triumph and glory in it , as if it were not only an act of bravery and gallantry , but a just proof of their zeal , and most becoming and worthy a Musulman . This hatred they are very careful to instil into their Children from their very infancy , as a most necessary part of their Education , next to the belief of one God , and of Mahomed his Apostle and Messenger . I must profess , it raised my wonder oftentimes to see little Boys , whose tender age seemed no way capable of such resentments , upon the sight of Franks ( for by that general name they most confusedly call the Western Christians ) passing by , to leave their sport and play , and with great vehemency of passion , and with a fury above that of Children , exclaim upon them , and not satisfied with this , throw stones at them , with a most strange and serious concern , upbraiding them with their infidelity , as if they had learned nothing else from their Parents . This is the general civility of the Turks , who vouchsafe us no other title when they speak of us in their ordinary discourse , when they seem most calm and mild , when their zeal and malice does not boil over in fury and madness , then that of Gaour , or Infidel ; and to disgrace and deride us the more , they usually preface it with some obscene words , which are now grown a common mode of speech among them , and so frequent in their mouths , that upon any the slightest accident that crosseth them , if a stone that lies in their way does offend them , if their Horses are unruly or do but stumble , if their Buffaloes and Asses trip or stand still , they vent their passion and displeasure in the same beastly language . When their passion swels and rages , and prompts them to shew a higher degree of contempt and hatred of us , then bre Domuz , you Hog , is the word ; ( the very mention of which adds to their disorder , and gives their blood a new fermentation ) ranking us with those impure Creatures , which they account so execrable , ( as if we were equally impure ) , and from whose sight and touch when they are alive , and no less from the taste of their flesh , they so carefully and religiously abstain . We are not yet arrived at the height of their rudeness and barbarity ; this is not the worst reproach and abuse they put upon us ; it is not enough they think to compare and rank us with Beasts , unless they pronounce us Devils too ; and maintain with great noise and confidence , that we stink in the Nostrils of God Almighty . In Cities , and places of Trade , where Merchants reside , there is provision made by capitulations and articles , accorded by the Grand Signor to their respective Soveraigns , for the security of their persons and estate , which interest alone makes them submit to . For as dull and as heavy as they are , they are mighty sensible of the benefit and advantage they receive by foreign Trade . They themselves not caring to traffick out of their own Empire , either out of a principle of pride , as if there were more of state in it , that all sorts of Merchandises are brought to their doors , without their seeking or fetching ; or of laziness and fear , not willing nor daring to undergo the hazards and fatigues of Sea-voyages ; or for want of skill in the art of Navigation , in which they are very blockheads and bunglers , confessing , that God has given both the knowledg and command of the waters to the Christians ; all which added to the natural dread and aversion they have of the Sea , make them content themselves for the most part with the Trade of the Black-Sea , sailing for the most part terra terra , or of Alexandria , the great Scale and Port of Caire , and the other parts of Egypt which lye toward the Mediterranean ; though oftentimes molested in the one by the Cossacks , who in times of war come down the Borysthenes with their Fleet of Boats , and thence coast all along to the very mouth of the Bosphorus , as by the Malteses in the other . And I am induced to believe , by arguments of very great probability , that if the Trade of Christendom were wholly interrupted by wars , and the Silk-trade particularly diverted and turned out of the Dominions of the Turk , either by the way of the Caspian Sea , or which would be more feisible , by lading it at Gombroon , and so joined to the Indian Trade , ( both which projects were mightily approved of by Abbas that victorious King of Persia , and great enemy of the Turks ) , to avert so great a mischief , they would quickly vail their Turbants , and descend from their high terms , and quit their disdainful and proud thoughts , as if the Christians could not live without their friendship , and submit to more advantageous conditions of peace and commerce . But notwithstanding these priviledges , and the superaddition of the Law of Nations to that of common nature and humanity , as if their tongues lay not under the restraint of an Edict , and Religion gave them a licence to be rude , they do not abstain oftentimes from reviling Ambassadors themselves , as they pass along the Streets , with their Nation and their Retinue to their Audidience , though the Janisaries who are their Guards and in their pay , are concern'd and think fit to discountenance and chastise such an insolence . Here is not indulged the liberty of Christendom , of running up and down the Streets and by-Lanes of Constantinople , and being too curious ; for besides the affronts that are every-where to be met with , there is danger of being thrust into some private House , and after some days or weeks sent over to Asia , or ship'd for Tartary ; and though examples of such violent seizures are but few , yet custom grounded upon such like fears , makes it necessary to have the company and attendance of a Souldier , which is necessary to desend one from the open assaults of Turks , either spirited with Wine and Rackee , or with the zeal they have brought with them from Mecca , ( for these religious Pilgrims , who have visited the Tomb of their Prophet , are very fierce ) who will draw their Knives and Ponyards ; and whatever the design be , whether only to affright , and to shew what they would do , if their Emperor had not forbid it ; yet in such a scuffle the accident may prove very dangerous and fatal too , and only this way is to be provided against . Their prejudices lying so deep as not easily to be removed , a Christian who is not a Slave as the Greeks and Armenians are , who seem to be below their hate and scorn , will be liable to continual affronts , which he must put up and digest with a patience becoming his Religion and his prudence , and not seem much concerned , but be deaf rather to the noise and ill language . However , if curiosity carries one twenty or thirty miles into the Country , the danger is really great and certain , ( for it is usual to seize upon straglers , if they meet them in the Fields and Woods separated from their company , where there is such great probability of securing their prey , and of their being undiscovered ) , unless he throws off his Christian Habit , and puts himself into that of the Country , and goes armed and well attended . In places where Christians seldom appear , they are had in greater horror and execration ; and if they meet with any civility , it is for the sake of the Janizaries who accompany them , whom they are afraid to displease ; though sometimes the ill humour will break forth into such obstinacy and peevishness , that the Janizaries themselves shall sare the worse for the Christians , whom they wait upon . I remember , when I was at Sardes , not caring to lodg in the Caravanserai with our Horses , we employed our Janizaries to procure us a Lodging for a night or two in any Turkish Cottage , which the barbarous people would not give way to , ( though they had the assurance of a gratification above what so slight a courtesie could possibly merit ) as soon as they understood we were Christians ; but rejected the overture with a great deal of indignation and scorn , saying , that they would upon no condition or reward suffer their Houses to be defiled by Infidels . This opinion they generally bear of Christians ; but they entertain a far worse of the Jews ; and herein they think they mightily oblige us , and would have it taken not only as an argument of their justice , but of their good will , that they prefer the Christians , whose valor they have so often experimented to their great cost , before them whom I found by just and frequent observation they esteem as the basest and most contemptible people upon the face of the Earth , and as a company of pitiful and low-spirited wretches , who dare do nothing that is generous and brave , and worthy of men . It is usual with them to say , 't is matter of great wonder to them , that the Christians who pretend to so much wit and understanding , should believe the just and great God should give up a Prophet so famous for the holiness of life and miracles as was their Messiah ( for this character they acknowledg as most due to our B. Saviour ) into the hands of so vile a Nation as the Jews , to be crucified ; and therefore in compliance with their gross conceptions , which are no way capable of understanding the Christian Religion , they imagine , that Christ escaped out of their hands , and was assumed privately into Heaven , and another very like him in stature and shape , and the other signatures of his body , substituted in his room , upon whom they executed their utmost malice and fury in putting him to so ignominious a death . They call them generally by the name Gephut ; which word is corrupted from the Arabick , and though originally it might denote nothing but the name of that people , yet now they use it in a most disgraceful and ignominious sense , as if there could not possibly be a greater disgrace or reproach than the bare title of a Jew ; tho sometimes for merriment sake , and to shew their scorn , they usually prefix some opprobrious term or other , to make them more contemptible and ridiculous . But when they grow a little more serious , and recollect themselves somewhat , and change their scorn into anger , they will upbraid them with their obstinacy and insidelity in rejecting and disbelieving the holy Prophets sent by God , and particularly our B. Saviour , whom they place next their false Prophet Mahomet . The Jews are very obnoxious to the insolencies of the Janizaries , who oftentimes to make themselves merry , throw and kick them to the ground , and pull them by the Noses and by the Ears . Against which they dare not so much as open their lips , for fear the sport should by the least ill word be turned into fury and madness . And very often , to do them the more dishonour , when any Criminal has received the sentence of death , they presently hurry him away , and make the first Jew , rich or poor , they can light upon , walk with the Rope in his hand , tyed about the neck of the other , till they come to the next Tree out of Town , and then hang him . It is a great mistake to think , that the Turks admit them into their Divans , or publick Councils , as if they were privy to any of their designs they have upon Christendom , or valued their information , or thought they could reveal the secrets of Government used among the Christian Princes . Their pride will not suffer them to stoop so low ; and the policy of the Jews in such like affairs , is far less than their malice and ill-will ; and their wit and cunning is shew'n and exercised better about Merchandise , and Brocage , and Usury , wherein they do great service to the Turks , who are pitiful Accomptants ; and are employed by them in collecting their Customs , and the making even their accounts , as knowing that their Talent lies this way , and that they are crafty and subtil in making bargains , and understand money matters very well , there being no Basha , or scarce any of fashion , who has a numerous Family , but retains a Jew with him or about him , whose only business is to look to the expences of the House , and buy all things necessary , as Cloaths , Provisions , and such like . Above all they retain an immortal hatred of the Persians , though they are their Brother Mahometans , and pay a like respect and reverence to the Alcoran , and embrace the dotages , and follies , and impostures of it , with the same concern of zeal . The original and fundamental difference is about the Succession , which the Persians contend to belong to Ali , not only in right of his Wife Phatima , who was Daughter of Mahomet ; and by the last Will of Mahomet himself , whose Favourite he was ; but also upon the account of his Valour , and other personal excellencies . Agreeable to this opinion they have of Him and his Title , they exclaim upon Abu Beker , Osman , and Omer , who were successively Chiefs of the new Religion , as meer Usurpers , and as Corrupters of the holy Text ; they are one great argument and subject of the raillery of the Persian Poets , who make odd and ridiculous representations of them ; whereas the Turks look upon them with all possible veneration , esteem them not only as the ornaments , but as the props and supports of the Musulman faith , and their memories are so sacred among them , that their names are usually inscribed upon the inside of their greater Moschs , as I have often took notice of . This difference is heightned by different interpretations of some ambiguous Texts in their Law , and by the introduction of different Rites and Ceremonies in their Religious Worship , each fiercely accusing the other of perverting the mind of their Prophet , and of innovation . Their disputes and grudges , and mutual censures and recriminations have some ages since broke out into such quarrels and feuds , that seem no way likely ever to be peiced up and reconciled . If any discourse happen concerning the Religion of Persia , the zeal wherewith the Turks are presently set on fire , does furnish them with sufficient arguments of reproach . A Persian , they will tell you , is a desertor of the true faith , and an Apostate ; an Heretick , who follows his own fancy , and rejects the establisht and ancient Ceremonies of Religion ; is altogether impure , as neglectful of those washings , which their Prophet requires as necessary preparations to prayer ; one who does not know how to say his prayers as he ought , void of all sense of the true Religion ; lastly , a very Infidel , kizel bash Gaour , the Infidel with the red head , alluding to the Turbants or Shashes they wind about their heads , which are usually of that colour ; whereas the colour the Turks most affect is white , except the kinred and posterity of Mahomet , whose special priviledge alone it is to wear green , a colour they pretend he most delighted in , and used to go in when he was old ; his name is writ with that colour in the Alcoran . However this animosity might begin upon a Religious account , yet it is mightily supported by interest , and managed with a great deal of dexterity and cunning by the Turks , who cherish these evil opinions and prejudices in the minds of the people and Souldiers , especially against both Christian and Persian , the two extremes of their Empire confining upon their Territories , and so easily either find or take frequent occasion to quarrel and war with both . By these arts they work upon the minds of the Souldiers to a greater willingness of undergoing the hardships of war. With this politick Engine they thrust them upon any design , though never so unlikely or desperate . For who is so cowardly and faint-hearted , or so much in love with life , as not to venture the loss of it in the cause of Religion , when the true Faith either is in danger , or is to be propagated ; when they take up Arms to chastize and punish Hereticks and Apostates ; when they fight for God , and the advancement of his cause against the profest Enemies of it ? This perswasion inspires them with desperate and brutish valour , when they turn their faces upon Christendom ; as I shall have occasion to shew hereafter . And the same argument they use as successfully , when reason of State or ambition oblige them to make a War in Asia ; a famous instance of which we have in the taking of Bagdat , in the year of Christ 1638 , by that warlike Emperor Morat , who was present there in person , and not long after died of excessive drinking of Wine , to the great joy of Poland , which he threatned to invade with his well-disciplin'd Troops , full flesh'd with blood , enraged to revenge the affront and disgrace of his Brother Osman . For as soon as an expedition into Persia was resolv'd upon , and determin'd in the Seraglio , the Church-men had orders to sound the alarum in their Pulpits , for the better animating and encouraging the Janizaries , who otherwise would have had no very great mind to it . And they performed their part mighty well by their popular and furious preachments , telling them over and over , that the Persians had made a defection from the true Faith ; that they had perverted the sense of the Divine Law , by their wicked and false interpretations and glosses ; and how highly they would deserve of the great God of Heaven and Earth , of Mahomet his Prophet and Apostle , and of the whole Musulman Religion , if they would fight stoutly . Every Mosch rung with zealous exhortations to fight for the cause of God , and the Souldiers longed to be at it before the time . And to keep firm their good resolutions , the Mufti , whose sentence and determination they revere as most sacred and binding , and little less than infallible , having orders from Court so to do , sends forth his Brief all the Empire over , ( a Copy of which in the original language I have laid up in that great Repository of all curious as well as useful and necessary Learning , the most famous Bodleian Library at Oxon ) wherein he thunders upon the heads of the poor Persians , charging them with Apostacy . He makes them guilty of damnable Heresies and Errors , which he endeavours to shew in several branches and particularities ; he solemnly pronounces them accursed of God , and not worthy to live upon Earth , assures them that it is a meritorious work , and what will be rewarded in Paradise , to root them out , and more meritorious than if they destroyed the Christians ; and not contented with this peremptory sentence , as bloody and cruel as it is , but as if it were too mild , he condemns them to the pit of Hell , and very devoutly prays God , that there they may serve for Asses , and be condemned to the drudgery of carrying the Jews upon their backs , not being able to wish them a more vile or more disgraceful employment . Thus extreme violent and deadly is their hatred of Sects ; and I would to God the false Religion of Mahomet only afforded instances of it . This contempt and disesteem of all others is the natural result of the over-weening conceit and false valuation they have of themselves ; they proudly stile their Port the Refuge of the World ; and fancy the glory and majesty of the Roman and Greek Empire to be devolved upon them by a most just right ; and that other Princes stand in awe of them , and are no better than Tributaries , and do them homage , because they judg it their interest to send their Ambassadors and Ministers to reside among them ; custom that had its beginning from the too forward compliance and condescension of those who courted the favour of the Grand Signor , this way passing into right , that no Ambassador can in the least assure himself of a civil reception , except he bring his presents along with him , upon his arrival at the Imperial City . The chief ground of this their arrogance is a mighty confidence and persuasion , that they are the chosen of God , to whom he has revealed his Will and his Law by Mahomet the Seal of the Prophets , as they stile him ; that they are in the right way which leads to Paradise , while others wander in by-paths of error , and consequently are the only true Believers ( for so Musulman signifies ) which is become the general name , by which they distinguish themselves as Mahometans , of such a particular denomination from all other Religions in the world . They are ashamed of their Scythian original ; it does not comport with their present grandeur , to look back and remember what poor vagabond lives their Ancestors lead upon Mount Imaus , how they wander'd to and fro with their Goats and Kids , and how not being able or willing to support their poverty by their labour and industry , they betook themselves to the more gainful trade of spoil and robbery . For the old name of Turk is altogether laid aside and despised by them , as ominous and of an evil sound , as if an alteration of condition had made them quite another Nation , and they seem desirous to forget it , and therefore never mention it themselves , and take it amiss and are very angry and look upon it as an affront , if any Christian call them by it . Such as depend immediately on the Emperor , and are enrolled in his service , and receive his pay , for distinction and for honour assume to themselves the title of Osmanli , out of respect to the name and memory of Osman , to whose valour and prudence they owe the first beginning of their Empire ; and to shew their duty to the Ottoman Family , whose Slaves they glory themselves to be ; but the name of Musulman , which Religion bestows on them , and equally respects all , is that they are most pleased with , and desire chiefly to be known by . They say , as well as the Jews , we have Abraham to our Father ; all the Prophets are theirs , Moses , Samuel , David , and the rest . A Jew thinking to put a trick upon a very zealous but ignorant Turk , who was discoursing upon this argument , told him , that they had one Prophet however peculiar to them , which they could not pretend to or challenge in the least , naming the Prophet Habakkuk ; to which the other could not tell what to reply , having never heard of him , till having recourse to his Imaum , or Parish-Priest , and understanding from him , that Habakkuk was a good Musulman , he finds him out , and beats him soundly for daring to go about to rob them of one of their greatest Prophets . In this they triumph and applaud themselves ; this is the continual subject of their most solemn thanksgivings to God , that he has made them Musulmans , in such like form as this , which I have met with , Praised be God who has made us to be of the stock of Abraham , and of the seed of Ishmael , and hath given to us an holy Religion , and a House to which all Strangers resort , and has appointed us to be Judges over men . In a Religion , which is made up of folly and imposture and gross absurdities , which abstracting from the common and fundamental principles and notices of Natural Religion , has nothing in it to recommend it self to the choice and acceptance of any sober and wise man , no subtil , no grave discourses of learning or reason , not so much as an argument , that looks like probable , is to be expected for the defence of it . Their strength lies more in attacking other Religions , than establishing their own . What they commonly object against the Christian , argues a stupidity only befitting Turks , as being the result of a gross fancy , that entertains no other idea's of things than what are derived from material and sensible objects . With their foolish and idle imaginations the great mysteries of our Religion can no way suit ; concerning which they ask blasphemous and most shameful questions , and they think this a sufficient confutation ; though it must be sadly confessed , that for the sake of some novel Doctrines , and especially that of Transubstantiation , which interest and a misapplied zeal and a superstitious fancy have brought into the Church , they loath and abhor the very name of Christianity , for this reason , because they think they cannot be Christians but upon the hard and impossible condition of first disbelieving their very senses . The liberty their Religion allows in gratifying the corrupt inclinations of nature , is so far from being a bar and a prejudice to it , that it sets it the more closely upon their minds ; the doctrine of it being so agreeable to the example of their Prophet , who was of a hot lustful temper , and pleased himself with variety of women . By this with an equal cunning he both justified his own practice and drew in such great numbers of men , of as bad a temper and complexion as himself , to embrace a Religion so charming and so pleasing to flesh and blood , which proposed the grossest satisfactions of sense in Paradise as the reward of their belief . And least virtue and modesty should make opposition against this brutish licentiousness and sensuality , as well as reason and discretion dislike and find fault with the gross follies of it , he takes his Sword into his hand , and strangely infatuated with Enthusiasm , to which a distemper of body inclin'd him , ( for that he first cheated himself , seems to me as plain as a demonstration ) and mistaking the dreams of folly for Divine inspirations , pretends God having tried several ways , which the obstinacy and wickedness of men had render'd ineffectual , was resolved at last upon this , and bring men over to the true Faith by violence and force of Arms , whom tenderness and mildness could not move and work upon . This was his chief warrant ( for he pretended but little to Miracles , and those few he is said to do are very idle and frivolous ) taking advantage of the distractions of the time he lived in , and of the horrid ignorance of his Countrymen of Arabia , which fitted them for any new impression , when Religion was broken into so many Sects and Parties , and a horrid dissoluteness and corruption of manners had overspread their Empire . This is the ground of their confidence ; the whole stress of their arguments lies in their Scymitars ; their Religion , they will tell you , cannot but be true , which has extended it self so far , and has been blest with so mighty success ; that God himself has clearly decided it in their favour , as being his Champions , and the propagators of his truth and worship against the Infidels ; witness those triumphs and victories they have gained over the Christians , the Empires and Kingdoms they have subdued by their all-conquering and irresistible Arms ; what are all these , say they , but full and satisfactory proofs and demonstrations , that Mahomet was sent by God , and that particularly they ( Turks ) are his true followers , who have so great a share and part of the world ; as if the Sophi and Mogul had little or nothing , and that there was no such Empire as that of China , and America they hear the Franks talk of lay out of this world ; and as if all Christendom , though brancht into so many distinct Monarchies and Governments , was but a little scantling in comparison of their Empire , which by degrees has encreased to that vast bulk , next to the just judgment of Almighty God , by the follies and divisions of Christians themselves . Sometime out of an excess of zeal , they will ask a Christian civilly enough , as I have been askt my self in the Portico of Sancta Sophia , why will you not turn Musulman , and be as one of us ? The usual answer is , that my Father before me , and my Grandfather before him were Christians , and that I think it best for me to continue in the Religion of my Country , in which I was born and bred . And indeed as they are scarce capable of any other answer , so neither is it safe or prudential to give it . It would be a piece of unwarrantable zeal and indiscretion ( not to call it by a worse name ) to upbraid them of their follies to their faces , without the least hope of success , and dispute with them in the Streets , and in their Moschs , when such like questions are proposed , about the purity and truth of the Christian Religion ; and supposing that zeal should transport any one so far , that he were knockt in the head in the pursuit of his argument , he would deserve pity , and his courage that the fear of death could no way mate , were to be admired ; but I question whether he could challenge the glorious title of a Martyr , who without any just occasion , much less necessity , has brought his death upon himself . The case of that poor Christian is vastly different , who having renounced his Faith and his Saviour , being perplexed in conscience for the great sin he had been guilty of , and informed by his Confessor , to whom he had disburthened his grief which lay so heavy on him , that he could no way expiate it , but by publickly professing himself a Christian again , went boldly to the Cadi , and persisting in his new resolution , received the sentence of death with great comfort and satisfaction . This shadow of an argument , added to the force of education , has such a mighty influence upon their minds , that it stifles all the exertions of reason and natural conscience , and makes them perverse and obstinate , and so secure withall , that 't is a sin to doubt of the happiness of their condition , as to the other world as well as to this ; in justification of which confidence it is most severely forbid by the Government to go about to convert a Musulman , and the doing of it is adjudged a capital crime , without the least hope of favour and mercy . The Turks indeed knowing how generous the Franks are in order to the sfying of their curiosity , as if Money sprang up in their pockets ready coined , make their superstition and their hatred vail to their covetousness , and will admit them into their very Churches ; though sometimes I have met with a repulse at Sancta Sophia , where I used to go often to please my self with the sight of that glorious Structure ; they telling us , the Caymacam , who had taken frequent notice of the resort of Christians , had sent orders to keep them out , which they durst not but comply with , for a time at least . Being at Prusia in Bithynia , the Imperial City before they crost the Hellespont and took Adrianople , we procured a Priest to let us into a Mosch , which had been formerly a Christian Church , hard by which is the Tomb of the Emperor Vrchanes , who took the City . After we had viewed it , we presented the old man , who was waiting at the door , with about half a Dollar , who perchance exspecting but a few Aspers , was so surprized with it , that to shew his sense of the unexspected civility , with great earnestness and devotion , lifting up his eyes to Heaven , he prayed God in his good time to make us Musulmans . This is the only way of taming their fierceness , by presenting them money , and bribing them with gifts to be civil ; and so long as this pleasant force is upon them , they will pretend great kindness ; but if they do not depend upon you , or if you withdraw your hand , they return to their natural rudeness and hatred with greater violence , which hope of gain and some present advantage had restrained ; for to be kind to Christians is against the very principles of their Religion . Here and there may be a few , whom a sense of gratitude for received kindnesses , and a freer conversation with Christians , by reason of commerce , have soft'ned out into better manners . As I and my Companion were walking in the Streets of Bursia , as they now call it , to see what remains of Antiquity we could meet with , a Gentleman-Turk ( for so he shewed himself ) guessing by our complexions , that there was something of Christian under our Turkish Clothes , asked our Janizaries , if we were not Franks . They readily confessed it , and upon further demand of what Country of Phrenkistan or Christendom , knowing that we were English , he invites us to his House ; which civility as we were unwilling to accept , so did we not know how to refuse ; but after a little consultation with our two Janizaries , who were very forward for it , we went with him . Upon our first coming in , he bids us heartily welcome , and exprest such respect and kindness , as fear of being taken notice of did not permit him to shew in the publick Streets . He entertained us with Coffee and Sherbet and Sweet-meats , according to the custom of the Country ; our wonder at this unusual and extraordinary treatment was the more heightned , when we understood that he had been a Haggi , or Pilgrim , and had visited Mahomets Birth-place at Medinat Alnabi , the City of the Prophet , and Sepulcher at Mecca ( from which places they use to bring back greater measures of zeal and fury against the Christians ) . But to satisfie us , he told us , that he had formerly received very great kindnesses from an English Merchant at Smyrna , and that he was resohttp : / / www . thecatseyes.com / show . asp ? show_id = 2460ved for his sake to be civil to his Countrymen where-ever he met them . Not content with this , he would scarce give us leave to depart , proffered us the use of his House , while we stayed in 〈◊〉 ; and upon our refusal , took a solemn farewell of us , and sent one of his Slaves to attend upon us to the Seraglio , which we had a great mind to look into . One may travel from the Danube to Euphrates , and perchance not meet with the like instance of generous civility . They observe most strictly the Rite of Circumcision , as the Seal of the Covenant , which God made with Abraham and Ismael , which gives them a right and title to all the priviledges of the Musulman Faith. This Sacrament the Impostor Mahomet thought fit to receive , as well in compliance with the Jews , as with the custom of his Country and many other Nations in the East , who were punctual in the observation of it , out of a strict adherence to the traditions of their Fathers , and the usage of ancient times , without any remembrance of the true ground of its orignal institution . They do not circumcise Children in their infancy , much less think themselves obliged to the eighth day ; no Canon tyes them to a set time , but they are left wholly to their liberty , and to consult their convenience , so it be not defer'd beyond the thirteenth year , which is the utmost limit , ( that is , if they be not deprived of an opportunity of doing it for want of a skilful hand ) in memory of the Circumcision of Ismael , which as they alledg agreeably to the holy Scriptures , was done when he was at that age . Till which time the Boys wear their Hair long , but made up into curled knots hanging over their Shoulders . The Ceremony is perform'd with great noise and tumult , which with them are the only expressions of their festival joy and mirth ; all their solemnities being disorderly and rude , and without any decorum or discretion to manage them . The whole day is spent in entertaining their Relations and Neighbours , who are to be witnesses of the operation ; for at this time they think they may fairly and lawfully lay aside their gravity , and wholly give themselves up to merriment . But as soon as Evening-prayers are over , they prepare sor the business , which is committed to the care of a Chirurgeon , or Barber , or any other who has an easie and dextrous hand . In the mean while the Boy is brought in by his Father and Kinred , in his new Vest and Turbant , whom they flatter and caress to divert him from melancholy and fear , and to prevent him from fainting before he feels the sharpness of the Rasor ; telling him , that in a few minutes he will be enrolled among the followers of Mahomet , and be made capable of the favour of God and the joys of Paradise . Sometimes they cast the Boy into a sleep with an Opiat potion , when they think he has not courage enough to endure it ; or do it by a surprize , before he is aware , having first prepared all things in order to it , and then making as if it were to be deferred till the next day , quickly return and finish the intended work . Yet notwithstanding the great stir they have made in the day-time , and that by this they are initiated into their Religion , they do not use to have any solemn prayers at it ; only the Operator in the very act cries out , Bismillah , in the name of God , three times , the Musick playing to drown the noise and howling of the young Turk , bleeding under his wound . At the Circumcision of the Son of the Grand Signor , or any other considerable Bassa or Officer , for the greater pomp and solemnity , and for example sake to encourage him to endure what they have undergone before him , several others are circumcised at the same time ; between whom upon the account of this Religious solemnity , there is contracted such a dearness and friendship , beyond all tyes of natural relation , that it is only dissolved by death , and ever after they call themselves by the title of Sunnetdash , or Associate of Circumcision , which they value above that of Brother . In the night they repeat often the same rude mirth , as they had in the day . Those Villains who out of desperation or a desire of living in all bestial sensuality , turn Renegados , are compelled to be cut . They first appear before the Cady or Justice , and acquaint him with the design of becoming a Musulman , and desire to be admitted to the favour and priviledg . Immediately he commands their heads to be shaven , and the matter being usually known before , Clothes and Turbants are provided and freely bestowed upon their Proselytes ; and sometime upon his first coming out in his Musulmans Habit , they set him upon a Horse , and carry him in triumph through the Streets of the Christians , with a Lance or Dart in his hand , to signifie they are ready to fight for and defend the Religion they have newly taken up , with the utmost hazard of their lives . Some few , perchance out of a natural horror of pain ( I intend it only of the Apostate Christians , for the natural-born Turks never omit it ) have by several artifices and wiles eluded the sentence of the Law , and remain uncircumcised , and abhor this invisible sign of a Mahometan ; and old men especially , to whom this wound might prove deadly and fatal ; but then they must keep it mighty private and secret , lest it come to the Cady's ear , whom they must otherwise bribe , or else be forced to submit to this piece of religious severity . It was one of the great policies of Mahomet , that he might the better establish the fancies that were to be the peculiar characters of his Religion , to press upon his followers the frequent practice of those great duties of Nature , which refer to the worship and service of God , as if in this they were to out-do both Christians and Jews . For they are obliged to make their solemn prayers five times a day , at set hours ; which vary according to the different seasons of the year . They do not divide the natural day into so many equal portions , as not understanding the use of Aequinoctial hours , or the benefit of Sun Dials , to measure and adjust their time ; but only have regard to the rising and setting of the Sun , and its longer or shorter stay above the Horizon ; though of later years they are mightily taken with the invention of Watches , there being scarce a Turk in Constantinople of any fashion , but is master of one , and besides has a striking Clock in his House ; a considerable number of Artizans of the French Nation reaping good advantage from this their curiosity . The times are at Sun-rising , Noon , the Middle-time between Noon and Sun set , Sun-set , and an hour and half in the Night ; only upon Friday , which they call Giumahgun , or the day of their Religious Convention , they add to their devotion , and go to Church about the middle of the Forenoon ; at which time the more devout shut up their Shops , but afterwards return to their trade and business . This being the only distinction and solemnity of the day , and no other reverence paid it . Otherwise there is the same noise in the Streets and Markets , the same chaffering of wares , their Magazines as much frequented , and no difference as to the neatness and fineness of their Habit ; they thinking they have done enough , if they step to the Mosch at that peculiar time for a quarter of an hour . In the time of Ramazan , which is the most solemn time of the whole year , wherein they pretend to most devotion , and wherein the most careless will endeavour to expiate the miscarriages of the year past , some will rise two hours before day to praise the name of God in a set form , this being a holy month , devoted to fasting and the more strict exercises of Religion . In the greatest Moschs on Friday in the Afternoon , such of the Priests as have acquired the fame of Learning and Eloquence , enlargeing upon some words of the Alcoran , entertain the people with harangues in their way , with a great deal of noise and seeming zeal , tending to the advance of Piety , Justice , Charity , and the other vertues of conversation and society . But this is extraordinary , which they are not bound to , their part being to read several Surats or Chapters of the Alcoran , and recite the prescribed office of Prayer : A little stock of Learning serving to qualifie them for this function . Before they make their prayers , whether publickly in their Moschs , or privately in their Houses , they are very solicitous to wash themselves , as thinking , that without this previous lustration God will be deaf to their requests , and that all their devotion will be ineffectual and to no purpose . This being so necessary a qualification of prayer , that they might not be destitute of conveniencies , and so be forced to omit their devotion for want of due preparation this way , besides the vast number of them every-where in their Streets , there are Conduits and Fountains with great variety of Cocks adjoining to the greater Moschs for this purpose . It is not enough to wash themselves , except they do it after a particular manner , which though difficult in it self , yet custom and use have rendred so easie and familiar to them , that they do it without delay and without error ; the manner is this , as I made a Turk , whom I had oblig'd , shew me particularly in my Chamber . Tucking up their Vests and short Sleeves above their Elbows , they take up as much water as they can hold in the hollow of their hands , which they wash thrice , and then putting their forefinger inro the left side of their mouth , and their Thumb into the right , wash that three times also . Snuffling up water with their Nostrils , they gently stroke their Face from the Forehead to the Chin , and back again ; next their Arms to the bending ; taking off their Turbant they rub with the inside of their Hand the forepart of their Head , from the Crown to the Forehead , putting their fore and middle Finger into the cavities of their Ears , and their Thumbs behind , washing their Necks with three Fingers of both Hands reversed . Their publick Bagnos or Baths usually are built very handsom and stately ; all great men have them in their Houses for their own use , and the uses of their Women , being frequented not only for health and cleanliness , but for Religion in several particular cases , in which they are obliged to cleanse other parts of the Body , not to be named , which yet I have seen them do at an open Fountain in the Streets . This ceremony , be their occasions never so great and urgent , they cannot omit without great scandal and guilt . Before which purgation they look upon themselves as unfit not only to go to Church , but to converse or to be conversed with . But how shall such as travel in the Desarts of Arabia or Libya comply with this fundamental Article of Mahometism , where they cannot be profuse with the provisions of water they carry with them for the necessities of life , where they meet with no Springs to supply themselves ? Are they wholly freed from the obligation of prayer ? No. The subtle Impostor has herein provided a remedy against this contingence ; in case of the faileur of water , Sand or Ashes or a Morter-clod crumbled into dust shall do as well , and shall convey the same cleansing virtue , as much as if they had made use of the clearest Fountain-water . They use cold water , except in case of sickness and weakness , when they are indulged to warm it , for fear otherwise the cold should strike into their bodies and encrease their malady . But see the madness and folly of their superstition ! by the sprinkling of a few drops of cold water , they think their minds are as much purified as their bodies , and that this is a sufficient purgation from the defilements of sin , and a most effectual remedy against brutality , and the most horrid impieties they can possibly be guilty of . To put them in mind the better of these duties of Religion , that neither pleasure nor business may divert their thoughts , the Priests or their Servants give notice to the people publickly of the approaching times of prayer . And for their better accommodation , about the Menar or Pyramid raised from the ground adjoining to the Mosch , is built a Gallery , to which there is an ascent by a winding pair of Stairs , the door whereof always looks towards Mecca . Here walking round and straining their voices in a kind of singing tone , which they lengthen out , they invite them in a peculiar form of words , which is common to all , and from which they do not depart a tittle , to come and make their prayers ; and by this way they supply the want of Bells , which they neither use themselves , nor permit the poor Greeks . It is scarce credible how this noise , by reason of this advantage of heigth , in a clear evening may be distinctly heard . The words are exactly these ; God is great , God is great ; there is no God but God , there is no God but God ; I confess that Mahomet is the Messenger of God , I confess that Mahomet is the Messenger of God ; come to prayers , come to prayers ; come to worship , come to worship ; God is great , God is great ; there is no God but God. In the morning sometimes they remind them , that prayer is better than sleep , and bid them repeat the Phatiha or first Chapter of the Alcoran , which they use as frequently as we do the Lords Prayer . In the Royal Moschs , where there are usually four Pyramids , ( only that of Achmet , the Grand-Father of the present Emperor , in the Atmidan or Hippodrome in Constantinople having six ) this proclamation is made with greater solemnity by several Priests jointly at the same time , but without the least variation of words , and agreeable to the same number of repetitions . Their prayers are in the Arabick language , the language of Mahomet and his Alcoran , which by reason of their daily use are easily understood by the people ; to which also the frequent mixture of Arabick words in the Turkish does not a little conduce . The matter of them is generally pious , and what might not misbecome those who worship the true God ; but that they are defective ; except where they reflect most impiously upon the most sacred and venerable mysteries of the Religion of Jesus , by making a deprecatory appeal to God , with a far be it from thee , O Lord , what the Christians impute to thee ; meaning , that thou hast a Son. These prayers , as several other parts of their worship , have for their foundation not only the Alcoran , in which , as they speak , are contained the commands of God , but the practice and example of Mahomet derived down to them by tradition , which they call Sunna . By which pretence they have introduced several customs , though in matters of less moment , of which there is not the least intimation in the Book of their Law ; and the people , out of a blind reverence and ignorant zeal , esteem them to have the same authority and to be equally binding . They direct their prayers only to God Almighty , acknowledging his infinite power , soveraignty , and right over Angels and Men and Devils , and the whole comprehension of all other Beings . They put up no prayers to Mahomet , nor do they bow their knees , as ever I could observe , as some write , at the mention of his name , it being one of their principles , that God is only to be adored and worshipped , which makes them so severe upon us , arraigning us of Idolatry for worshipping Christ , who is God blessed for ever ; Arianism , which Mahomet learned of the Monk Sergius , being one main ingredient of their Religion . In what a fair way are a great number of false Christians ( especially inferior persons , who are taught to renounce the Lord God their Saviour , who bought them ) in Poland and elsewhere , to become Mahometans , if the Grand Signor should enlarge his conquests among them , which God avert for the good of Christendom ! Only as to what concerns Mahomet , they wish God would be propitious to him and his Family , that peace and mercy and the benediction of God may be upon him ; which civility of expression Mahomet himself uses in the Alcoran toward the holy Patriarchs and Prophets and our B. Saviour , in imitation of whom their writers take up the same form , joining the name of the blessed Virgin to his , as Isa the Son of Miriam , on whom be peace . They do Mahomet no other honour in their offices of Prayer , besides frequent acknowledgments of his mission from God as his Apostle and Messenger . There is a great semblance of devotion in their Churches . This is the only representation that can be made of them to their advantage . Take them in their Streets and Houses , they are rude and fierce and ill-natur'd ; but their modesty here triumphs over their fierceness of temper , and a sence of Religion influences their behaviour , and makes it extraordinary humble and reverent . I happen'd to be present at Evening-prayer in the time of Ramazan in the new Mosch built by the Mother of this Emperor , where might be an Assembly of no less than two or three thousand . Lifting up the Antiport , and advancing a little forward , I could not perceive the least noise ; no coughing or spitting , no disorderly running up and down , no gazing one upon another , no entertainments of discourse , nothing of irreverence or heedlesness , as if they had forgot the business they came about ; but all were mighty intent and serious , and listening with great diligence to the Priest , or busie at their private prayers , with that profound silence , as if it had been not only a sin , but a crime that drew after it bodily punishment to be inflicted immediately , to misbehave themselves whether in discourse or gesture in that place . When they make their prayers , they turn their faces toward that determined point of the Heavens , under which Mecca is placed , as the Christians do to the East , & the Jews to Jerusalem , in what Climate or position of Sphere soever they are ; standing almost erect , only that their heads do encline somewhat forward ; their eyes being fixt upon the ground , and their hands close to the breast , almost in the figure of a Cross , without any the least motion , as if they were in an extasie . But soon after , upon the repeating of some words , they at set intervals incline their heads , and bend their bodies , and prostrate themselves upon the pavement , cover'd with Carpets or Maps of Grand Cairo , several times together ; then sitting cross-leg'd , their hands placed upon their knees , but not exactly in the same easie posture as in their houses , but as it were somewhat higher , and upon their right heel . They often pass from one gesture to another , and make often interchanges , which tradition and custom have made necessary in order to the right performance of this duty . Besides , they have a trick to move their heads several times from one shoulder to another , as if they shewed the expectation they have of the coming of Mahomet , who promised to appear at the last day at the time of prayer ; or else ( which is the reason Albert Bobowski , a learned Polonian , who had been kept in the Seraglio full nineteen years , and a person well-skill'd in all the Rites of the Mahometan worship , gave me upon enquiry ) to shew respect to their Angel-keepers , whom they foolishly believe at that time to sit upon their shoulders . They make use of Chaplets of Beads , upon which they number their short prayers , such as Sabhan Allah , blessed be God ; Allah Ekber , God is great ; Alhemdo lillah , praise be given to God ; Bismilla , in the name of God ; which they will repeat sometimes a hundred times , as they will likewise the several names of God , with great noise and fervency . We heard in Sancta Sophia six or seven Priests crying out several times till they were even hoarse again , We believe , we believe ; as if they thought God Almighty had been to be wrought upon by such loud and vain repetitions . In making bows and prostrations , which they look upon as necessary appendages of prayer , their devotion does chiesly consist ; to omit them is very scandalous , there being not a greater disgrace and reproach among themselves than to be accounted Binamaz , one who does not say his prayers . It is enough however they do it in their Houses , so they do not neglect the Mosch too much , and especially in their Month of Fast ; but the Janizaries particularly , who by the obligation of their Order fight for the propagation and advancement of the joint-interest of Religion and the Empire , think this their zeal and readiness enough to excuse them from going thither too often , and dispense with themselves for not going above once or twice in a year , except such as live in the two Oda's , or publick Chambers in Constantinople design'd for their Lodgings , adjoining to which is a Mosch peculiar to them . But some on the other side , who would be taken for Saints , are as extravagant in the excess , as the Janizaries are usually neglectful : For at the times of Prayer they will dismount from their Horses , leave their shooting and hunting , spread their Handkerchiefs in the open streets , as well as in the Fields and Woods or Sea-shore ; as I have known them do , when crossing the Propontis we were forced by violence of weather , to make into a Cove between two Rocks , where I found several Boats of Turks got thither before me , being the only Frank in the company . After their prayers , they fell to drinking of Coffee , and observing that I was wet and cold and indisposed , by reason of the ill-weather , they bid one of their Slaves give that Infidel who was in the Cleft of the Rock , where I had shelter'd my self against the wind , a Dish of Coffee , which was very welcome , not daring to offend them by making use of the Wine I had laid in the Boat to serve me during my Voyage to Constantinople . In some this devotion certainly flows from a principle of conscience , and is very hearty and sincere , as both justice and charity oblige us to believe ; but it would be as great folly and weakness not to censure others of gross and ridiculous folly and dissimulation , as this following instance will fully demonstrate : My Lord Ambassador one day entertain'd at Dinner one Husain Aga , who had formerly been Customer at Smyrna , and at that time one of the great men of Constantinople , by reason of the relation that his Father-in-Law had to the Vizir then in Candia , but as very a Turk as is in the whole Empire , together with five other Hogs fatning up for the slaughter . They drank mighty freely of Wine and Strong-water , which had been distilled in Christendom , for the sake of which they chiefly came ; though they would jestingly at Table check themselves for daring to transgress the Law of their Prophet : But being once in , they drank on , a drop of each defiling them as much as the greatest load they could stand under . But however , to shew that for all this extravagance they were Musulmans , as soon as they heard the Priest from the Spire of a neighbouring Mosch at Ikindi , that is , the middle-time between mid-day and Sun-set , call to prayers , they desired a Carpet might be spread in the Court-yard upon the ground , where they went very devoutly to their prayers , and left us to wonder at their stupid and irreligious hypocrisie . This is no very rare or unusual thing among them , it being what I have seen also practised before a great number of Christians in other places . The Fast , which every year is observed in the month of Ramazan , is another great fundamental of the Mahometan Religion . Which though it be fix'd as to the month , yet because the years they make use of in their Religious and Civil accompts are Lunary , without any intercalation to adjust the different periods of the motions of the Sun and Moon , there is an anticipation made every year of eleven days , and by consequent it does not return to the same beginning , till after a Circle of thirty three years has expired . In determining the beginnings of months , not troubling themselves with the nice calculations of Astronomy , they only respect the Phasis of the Moon , not in the least its Conjunction ; and accordingly , as it must needs often happen , they begin the month one day sooner or later , as the Moon appears . Sometimes they have caused their Lamps at their Moschs in Constantinople , which is the usual signal in this month , to be lighted at midnight , as soon as it has been attested by credible Witnesses , who either have had better eyes or a clearer Horizon , that they have seen the Moon that night . But however to prevent confusion , in rainy and cloudy weather , after a days expectation and forbearance , they begin it the next , when the thickness and haziness of the Sky hinder it from appearing . Generally upon the sight of the New-Moon they bow their bodies , gently stroking their faces and beards , and put up prayers to God. During this month , as long as the Sun continues above the Horizon , a total abstinence from all manner of sustenance is injoined ; in the very heat of Summer , when the length of the days adds to the trouble and irksomeness of it , they dare not so much as put one drop of water into their mouths ; and indeed herein their strength and their patience are both equally to be admired ; such restraints a fear of violating this severe Law of their Prophet lays upon their very natures , that a natural Turk , though at other times brutish enough , and apt to indulge his appetite , will choose rather to perish with thirst , and faint away by reason of an empty stomach , than commit such a great sin , though in private and out of the sight of the world . Their constancy or rather obstinacy have been so great , that their Histories relate , that the Janizaries themselves , who in several other matters do not use to be over scrupulous , when they have been in the Field and preparing to engage their enemies , have abhorred the very thought of eating and drinking in Ramazan time , till they have been dispensed with by the Mufti , assuring them by his infallible authority , that it is more acceptable to God , to defend his Religion against the enemies of it , than to observe its precepts to the prejudice of it , in weakning themselves by such excessive and immoderate fasting ; and the Emperors own example has prevailed with them above the necessities of nature . The Renegadoes perchance , who have embraced Mahometism , that they may wallow the more securely in all manner of sensuality and lust ( for no one can be supposed so sottish , or void of reason and common sence , as to embrace it upon conviction , as if he had found by strength of argument , that it was true , and upon that account ought to be embraced ) do not use this severity upon themselves ; but then their great care is , that they be not discovered . For though it be not a capital crime , yet the irreligious criminal , if convicted before the Cady , is oftentimes drub'd , and by way of expiation and penance , is to fast a considerable number of days . To prevent the scandal and the punishment of it , they durst not so much as enter into a Cabaret ( when the Greeks were allowed to sell Wine ) which would have been a double crime , remembring the sad fate of him , who being got drunk in the Ramazan time , had hot melted Lead poured down his Throat and into his Ears by Nassuf , who was chief Vizir under Achmet , who judged his bad example merited this severity : though some , out of their excessive love to it , will venture to drink in Christians Houses , where they may be free and can have it . Their luxury , instead of being repressed by this total abstinence , is the rather heightned and inflamed ; for as soon as the Sun is set , and their Lamps flame round about the Towers of their Moschs , which they place in several figures , as of a Gally , and the like , which make a very diverting shew ; and that prayers are ended , from which none who are well are to be absent , who have any care of their reputation , they play the gluttons more solemnly , and spend the whole night in entertainments and revellings . They pass over the day with a great deal of weariness and drowsiness , wishing and yawning till the Evening-Star appears ; but in the night they enjoy themselves doubly for their forced abstinence and forbearance ; which is therefore the more shameful and ridiculous , because it is but an introduction to riot . Sick persons and Travellers are dispensed with , but upon this condition , that when they have regained their health , or have finished their voyages , they fast so many days in another month , till they have filled up the number . Some out of a foolish opinion of merit , begin their Fast in the month preceding , but which is always to be concluded with the last day of Ramazan , and never to be extended beyond this limit . No Children are tyed to this hard Law , though sometimes they make Boys of five or six years of age , that they may learn to accustom themselves , fast two or three days together , after some little intermissions . This month was consecrated by Mahomet to this solemnity , because in it he pretended to receive the Alcoran from Heaven . In this they all pretend to a greater devotion than ordinary ; and he who at other times scarce cared to go to Church , thinks now to redeem his former neglects by his greater diligence and frequency . The last day of it is devoted to the memory of their dead Friends and Relations , whose Graves marked with red Oker they usually visit , and put up their prayers and suffrages for their Souls , that it may be well with them ; with which ceremony they end the day and the Fast together . The following Moon begins the Feast of the great Bairam , which is a time of great mirth and joy , lasting only for three days . In the morning of the first of which the great Guns are discharged , and Drums beat . There is nothing but joy and triumph in the Streets . They seem to be quite another sort of men than they are all the year besides , diverting themselves in the open Streets with Musick and Dancing , making invitations and entertainments at their Houses , and sending presents to their Friends . A great number of Sheep are killed too upon the first day of this Festival ; which they call Kurban , or the Offering , hereby thinking that God will become propitious and favourable to them , this being no obscure Relique of the Mosaical Worship , ( Mahomet borrowing something out of the Religions then most in vogue , when he first started up a Prophet ) and is questionless looked upon by them in the nature of an expiatory Sacrifice , which they use at other times upon solemn occasions . As Solyman , when he enter'd Buda 1541 , sacrificed in the great Church dedicated to the V. Mary , turned into a Mosch ; and so at Strigonium two years after , in 1543 ; As Selim his Father did at Jerusalem , for good success in his expedition into Egypt . Every man is his own Priest , and may slay his Sheep at his own House . They distribute the several parts of it among the poor , reserving nothing in the least to their own uses , which will take off from the merit of the Sacrifice ; which also ceases and is rendred ineffectual , if these Victims be purchased with money , got dishonestly either by fraud or violence . I have been assured of a Turk , who was so scrupulous this way , that instead of satisfying for the injustice he had been guilty of , and restoring what he was wrongfully possessed of , only desired an English Merchant to change such a number of Dollars for others of the same species , fancying those that were got honestly in the way of industry and Merchandise would thrive better with him than those he parted with , as if the money only were in fault , and drew a curse after it , which he fancied thus easily avoided by an exchange . The Sheep thus sacrificed , they fancy enter into Paradise , and there graze all along the flow'ry Meadows upon the Banks of Rivers flowing with Milk and Honey . Seventy days after is the Feast of little Bairam , which is not observed with half the pomp and noise as the former . In the intervening space the Pilgrims prepare from the farthest quarters of the Empire for their journey to wards Mecca , that they may enter that City in procession the first day of this Feast . In this pilgrimage all perswasins of Mahometans agree , the obligation lying upon all indifferently to perform it , once at least in their lives . The concourse of Pilgrims is extraordinary great ; and for the greater pomp and shew , and for better security and conveniency of travel , there are places assigned confining upon the respective Countries whence they usually come , where they meet first either alone or in dispersed companies ; such is Damascus for those of Europe and the lesser Asia ; Cairo for the Inhabitants of Africa ; Zibet , a City in Arabia Felix , for the people of Arabia and the Islands of the Indian Ocean ; and Bagdat for the Persians , Vsbeck Tartars , and the Subjects of the Mogul . But this obligation and command is dispensable in several cases . If they are employed in the necessary service of the Emperor , either about his person , or in the Wars , or in the Government of any Province . If they be sickly , and so their health like to be endangered by long travel ; if they are poor , and have not wherewithall to maintain their Families in their absence , or cannot furnish themselves with necessaries for the Voyage , and the like ; so that it is in a manner wholly left to their liberty and choice , and is to be measured and directed by their convenience and interest . Yet notwithstanding there is so much of merit in it , and such reputation gained , every one thinking himself , as the more holy , so the more fortunate , as if they had gone to take possession and secure themselves of a particular place in Paradise , that several thousands flock there continually every year , and in their numbers at least out-do the Christians , who live among them , whose zeal and devotion carry them to visit the holy Sepulchre of Jesus in Jerusalem at the time of Easter . The ceremonies are too many and too idle to be put down here minutely and in detail ; the chiefest and most remarkable are these which follow , as they were communicated to me by a curious and learned Renegado : They all afterward meet on the Mountain Arephat , not far from Mecca , and are there at the farthest by the ninth day of the month Dulhaggi , where they sacrifice , and put on their holy Covering or Blanket , of which presently . The Haggiler or Pilgrims put on a white woollen Coat , and hang about their necks a white Stole , all their other Clothes being cast off , pairing their Nails , cutting their Mustachios and Beards , and shaving their Pubes , Head , and Body , or washing their Body , at least their Head , Feet , and Hands , and after perfume themselves and say their prayers . By this they become Muharrem or devoted , and are obliged to abstain from all obscenity of language and strife , even from hunting and looking after game , & do not dare so much as to kill a Louse , or put on their other Clothes , Turbants , or Caps . Yet they may go to a Bagno or House for shade , or into a Bed. Upon their entring Mecca , they go strait to the first Mosch , and then to the Black Stone , which they foolishly imagine the Patriarch Abraham used to step upon to mount his Camel , and say their prayers there , and kiss it and rub their Chaplets of Beades upon it . The whose remaining Ceremony consists in sacrificing Sheep , in processions about the wall of the Sepulchre of Mahomet , and to the neighbouring Mountain , and to the Rock , in which as they pretend with the like certainty , are still to be seen the footsteps of that Patriarch . Several in their return , to make their pilgrimage compleat and more meritorious , visit Jerusalem , for which they preserve a great veneration ; the ordinary name whereby it is known and called in their discourse , being Kuds , or the Sanctuary , or the holy City ; to which they add the additional titles of Sherif and Mubarek , or the noble and blessed holy City . Here they come to worship and say their prayers in the Mosch , which is built upon the top of Mount Zion , in the very place where Solomons Temple stood , once the Mountain of Gods holiness , and the joy of the whole Earth , and still beautiful for its situation . This like the Chappel at Mecca , they esteem so holy , that it is only lawful for a Musulman to enter into it . If a Christian or Jew should but lift up the Antiport , and set one step into it , he profaned it , and indeed the penalty of such a curiosity would be , as they give out , no less than death , or at least they would force them upon a necessity of redeeming their life with the loss and change of their Religion . Yet some Greeks have been so curious , who have spoke Turkish admirably well , and known all the Rites and Customs used in their Worship , as to put on a Turbant and dissemble their Religion , and enter boldly therein , who report upon the best survey and observation they could make , they could see nothing extraordinary or differing from what was in their other Churches . So that it seems nothing but the holiness of the ground in which it stands , derives upon it this great lustre and veneration , and makes the Turks so cautious and superstitious how they admit strangers . All upon their return are mighty zealous in the observations of the least punctilio's of the institutions of Mahomet , and particularly abhor the very thought of Wine , or any other prohibited liquor , and would not drink a drop of this , if it were to save their lives . Some put out their eyes , who have been blest with the sight of the Tomb of their Prophet , as if they cared for nothing in the world afterward . Others impose upon themselves a silence of two , three , or four years , and sometimes longer , and upon no provocation or danger will open their mouths to speak a word . This is to several the great comfort and triumph of their lives , that they have been at Mecca ; and for the merit of those weary steps they have taken , and of the prayers they have offer'd up at Mahomets Shrine , they flatter themselves they shall not fail of entring Paradise , though in all other things they be as very Turks as they were before they set one foot forward upon their journey . The Grand Signor every year sends a considerable present to Mecca , and Clothes for the covering and adornment of the Temple Kaabe , at which time the old is taken down ; and happy is he who brings home a rag of it with him , which he preserves ever after , as a holy relique and a powerful Amulet against all danger whatever ; and with the same care , as the Inhabitants of Catanea do the Vail of St. Agatha against the eruptions of Mongibel . The other principal Festival days are these . On the twelfth night of the month of the former Rabbia , they celebrate the Birth of Mahomet , hanging out Lamps at their Moschs , which with them is the most usual sign and expression of their triumphs and rejoicings . At this time they employ all the wit and eloquence they have , as little or as great soever it is , but far different from European , and indeed consists only in phantastick and swelling expressions after the Eastern way , flowing from a gross and uncultivated fancy , without any great depth of reason or sence ; which practise might put several Christians to the blush , if they were not hardened into immodesty and an obstinate humour by their conceitedness , who refuse to pay that respect to the memory of the Birth-day of their Saviour , which the Turks so zealously pay to that of their false Prophet . On the twenty-seventh night of the month Regeb , is the Feast of the Ascension of Mahomet into Heaven ; a Fable so ridiculous in its whole composition and circumstances , that nothing but absolute sottishness can admit it as credible ; but yet as gross and foolish as it is , they believe it with the same certainty , as that there was such a man. The fifteenth night of Shaaban is called Baratghege or the Night of Priviledge , in which they say was conveyed a Sword out of Heaven into the hands of Mahomet , and an Instrument at the same time , commissioning him to draw it , and make use of it against the Christians and all others , who should oppose the propagation of the new Religion . In the twenty-seventh night of Ramazan , is the Feast of the Descent of the Alcoran ; which is the cause why the Impostor thought fit to consecrate the whole Month to more than ordinary devotion , being the holiest time of the year . And to encourage them to spend this Festival in the exercises of Religion , they keep up and support the credit and reputation of it with a pretended priviledge from God , that whatsoever petitions they put up from Jatzi , or an hour and half in the night , until the Sky opens , ( as they speak ) and the day appears , shall be infallibly granted , and that God has decreed and determined this ; and therefore they call the prayer at this time Kadar namasi , or the prayer of predestination . There is a fixt and established distinction of order and degree among the Ministers of their Religion ; the chiefest of which is the Mufti , who is often too consulted in Civil affairs and controversies , which seem to have little or no respect and dependence upon Religion ; and so may be lookt upon under the notion of a supreme Judge under the Emperor , as well as of a Chief Priest . He is the great Doctor and Oracle of their Law , and Heir ( as they speak ) of the Doctrine of the Prophets and Apostles , the Fountain of vertue and knowledge , one who can resolve all the difficulties of Religion , and who has a Key to open all the treasures of truth ; for by these and such like foolish characters do they represent him . Let him be never so dull and stupid otherwise , either through a natural incapacity , or age , or any other defect , if he be preferred to the Muftiship , as some have been out of a capriccio by some Emperors , presently he becomes infallible ; his decisions are sacred and authentick , and his authority is unquestionable and received without any dispute or debate , and his dreams are lookt upon as inspiration , as being Mahomet's representative . Though he poor man , conscious to himself of the Cheat , uses to be over-modest , and is ashamed to assume this inerrable power , and subscribes his Sentence with this usual Expression , God knows better ; which is yet no bar to the Peoples opinion and esteem of him ; and no one under the Emperour dares pass judgment contrary to his determination . To keep up this veneration of the Musti in the People , the Emperour descends from his State , and as soon as he appears before him , rises up and advances leisurely six or seven steps towards him , and permits him to kiss his left Shoulder ; whereas the chief Vizir is only permitted to kiss and salute the hem of his Vest , though to do some little honour to his first Minister he makes a step or two forward to meet him . The Emperour makes great use of him in his private Councils , and scarce sits upon a great design without his advice , to make it take the more among the Souldiers and People , who assure themselves both of the lawfulness , and convenience , and necessity of an Expedition , and flatter themselves too with the good success of it , if it be ratifyed by his consent , and blest by his Prayers and encouragement . If reason of State judg it necessary to strangle or take off the head of a Vizir , any other Bassa or General of the Janizaries ; the Mufti 's consent will vindicate the execution , and stop the clamours and discontents of the Soldiers and People : who by this are made to believe , that the person cut off deserved to die according to the Law ; and that it is a piece of Religion to submit to the Emperours Pleasure , and the Mufti 's determination noless than to the Will of God. The Authority of the Mufti being so great , the Emperour will not trust a matter of that consequence to an election , knowing that the keeping up his Prerogative in the disposal of such an office to a fit person , who shall comply with his humour and the necessity of State , is a just piece of Policy , on which may oftentimes depend the safety and security of his Person and Government . Although usually he prefers one of the Cadileskires into the place of the deposed or dead Mufti , if he be for his turn ; But in case the Mufti should prove resractory and disturb his Councels by throwing in scruples of Conscience , and refuse to obey and confirm his Orders , though they be never so unjust and unreasonable , they are not long to seek for a remedy ; and as if the spirit of infallibility , wherewith he was before invested , immediately upon this foolish act of disobedience , left him to his pure natural condition ; then he is said to dote , and to be infatuated , and to forfeit his discretion and understanding , and is hereby rendred unworthy of so holy and supereminent a dignity ; and one presently is substituted into his place , who understands better the Arts of compliance and Courtship , and will receive as an Oracle whatever comes proposed to him out of the Seraglio . The Mufti by his place always moves with the Emperour ; none of his Retinue more constantly attends him , that he may be ready to assist with his Councel at all times in case of doubt or difficulty . This high place lies in common to any one , whom the Emperour shall think fit to dignifie and honour with it , and is not confined to the Kindred and Posterity of Mahomet , as some through a mistake have affirmed . I am fully assured the Mufti sometimes acts as a meer Politician and Counsellor of State , though the advancement of Religion is always the pretence , as it happened upon a debate before the Emperour much about the year 1669. when there were dispatched two Gentlemen out of Croatia with full Commission to treat about their becoming tributary to the Grand Signor , from several of the Nobles of the Roman communion , who afterwards had their heads struck off at Newstadt , upon the assurance of his assistance and protection against the Emperour of Germany , whose Government they had shook off , and thought to justifie and secure their Rebellion this way . Mustapha Caimacam of Adrianople was against their being received , as being against the Peace made so solemnly after the battel of Rab ; and besides very politickly remarqued , it was no fit time while they were involved in so troublesom and expenseful a War with the Venetians in Candia , to bring the Germans upon their backs , which would inevitably follow ; but the Mufti was as zealous and fierce for their being taken into protection , alledging that the Port was the refuge of the world , and that the Interest of Religion as well as of State would be advanced by such an acquist , which the Christians themselves would maintain and make good to them , and that this was of greater obligation , than the strict observing of a Treaty , that the misfortunes of the last Hungarian War forced them to submit to . The Emperour distracted with such different Counsels , would resolve nothing till he had received the opinion of the Vizir then before Candia ; but before that could be brought back , they had certain intelligence , that Croatia was over run with an Army of Thirty thousand , and the whole force of the discontented and rebellious Nobility defeated , and not an Acre of Land left to plant a Turkish Garrison in . Next to the Mufti are the two Cadileskires , the one of Anatolia , who has the precedence , and the other of Rumuli or Thrace ; the authority of which latter , notwithstanding , the seeming restraint of the name , is extended as far as the Turk has any Dominions in Europe . These formerly were , as their titles literally signify , Judges of the Army ; and perpetually attended the Camp to administer Justice among the Souldiers , that so the Discipline of War might receive support , and be maintained , and kept up better by the assistance of the Law ; and little quarrels that might arise among them , might be the more fairly determined , and capital punishments inflicted according to the demerit of the Criminals . This was the design of their Original Institution ; but at present they only assist the Vizir or his Deputy , in deciding civil Causes , and exercise no authority and power over the Souldiers , who have long since extorted this Priviledge from the Grand Signor , to be tryed only by their respective Commanders and Officers , They have carried before them a Pole or Spear , on the top of which hangs horse-hair , as an Ensign of Honour ; to support which , besides what they get by bribes and fees from the parties contending , which are greater or lesser proportionally to the quantity of the Sum , about which the Suit is commenced , They have a daily allowance of Five hundred Aspers out of the Exchequer , according to the Canon established by the Emperour Suleiman . The Mollas challenge the third place : who , under the Bassas , are Judges and Presidents of Provinces : in the chief Cities of which they reside , and to whom the Cadies or inferiour Judges are obliged to give an accompt of their Judicature . Their pay is out of the Publick Treasure , which is never less than Three hundred Aspers a day , but always under the allowance of the Cadileskires . The first design and intent of the allowance was agreeable to Equity and Justice , that they might live handsomly and well , and never be forced to descend to base Arts and ways of gain , unworthy their places , or be under the temptation of perverting the Law for reward and gain . But this does not satisfie and content their avarice , who are not ashamed to extort Money and Presents from the several Parties , who must this way defend their Cause , if they would not have it miscarry , be it never so just and equitable in it self . This is the best and most effectual Plea they can possibly make : for certainly if Justice be to be sold in any part of the world , it is in Turkey . For though they may pretend Religion and Conscience , and may seem nice in determining some Suits ; yet it is both known and sadly experienced , by poor Christians especially , if they implead any Turk , that they are horribly corrupt , and men of no faith or honesty , and judg the cause on his side , who has given the greatest bribe ; though to free themselves from the infamy and guilt of injustice , they alledge several trickish subtilties out of the Alcoran , and from Tradition , and to stave off the injured person from pursuing his right , and prosecuting his complaint . These are reckoned among the number of Church-men , the Law by which they judge and determine Cases , being as much a part of their Religion , and founded in their Alcoran and Sunna or Tradition , as the Rites of their Worship : and although they have nothing to do in the Moschs , and sustain only the office of Civil Judges ; they are accordingly advanced to the highest dignity a Church-man is capable of . Every Mosch has a Priest peculiarly belonging to it , who is called Imaum . In the royal Moschs and others that be endowed , several are maintained , who take turns in celebrating their office , or else for greater Decorum and State officiate together . A small proportion and measure of Learning is a sufficient qualification of a Turkish Priest ; there is no great need of any praevious study , or a peculiar education and designment to make any candidate fit to take the care and Government of a Mosch upon him . For the most part if he can but read the Prayers , and write and recite a few Versicles out of the Alcoran , and be no way scandalous in his life , though he has been at a Trade all his life long , he is very capable , if he can get to be nominated to fill up any vacancy ; and in case of any miscarriage or unfitness degraded as it were from his function , and he contentedly returns to his Trade again , and one of his Neighbours is preferred into his place . The great Vizir is Patron of most of the richest Moschs ; the chief Mufti disposes of others ; the Kizlir-aga or chief of the black Eunuchs recommends persons to succeed in the vacant places of the royal Moschs ; the Capi-aga challenges a right , where any of the Pages of the Haz-oda or Chamber have been founders , as having been bred up under the care of his Predecessors . To other places of lesser value the recommendation of the people is sufficient , who upon producing his Letters Testimonials to the Vizir , or any of his Deputies appointed for this purpose , are forthwith admitted and confirmed . The greatest allowance as far as I could learn any of these could pretend to , is Sixty Aspers a day ; though some are content with a sixth part . The vast number of Priests may be collected from the great number of Churches , which are every where to be met with . They stand very thick in Constantinople , Pera and Galata , and the Towns situated upon the Bosphorus . In the Country the poorest Village whatever has a Mosch in it ; and if it be large , two or three ; if the Inhabitants be Turks , which I add , because some Christians are permitted to live by themselves , without the mixture of any Turks ; which is particularly indulged to those , who live in Villages about eight or ten Miles from Constantinople toward the Bosphorus , and not far from the black Sea ( in one of which , Belgrade , seated in the middle of a Wood , my Lord Ambassador had his Villa or Countrey-house ) who are obliged to take care , that the several Channels , which convey the water from the numerous Springs arising not far off , be kept clear and unobstructed , and the water have a free passage to the Aqueducts , the glorious work of Valentinian , and long after restored to their former usefulness and magnificence by Suleiman , who for this one thing , if there had been nothing of Victory and Conquest else in his Reign , had deserved the title that usually is bestowed upon him . All the Moschs are endowed by their respective Founders : for upon no other condition are any allowed to build . To preserve order and unity among so great a number of Priests in every great City , as Adrianople , Prusia , Smyrna , and the like ; there is one who presides and exercises authority over the rest , who is called Mufti , whom they consult in all cases of ambiguity and doubt , and whose Sentences and Orders they dare not disobey . Sometime in the greater Churches Harangues and Discourses are had before the People , but not weekly upon a Friday , or any other fixt day , this not being the proper employment of the ordinary Imaum , or Parish-priest , whose Talents and parts do not usually lye that way . They are performed with a great deal of seeming zeal , earnestness , and devotion ; their chief Argument being a Religious or Moral duty , as frequency of Prayer , Justice , Charity , and the like . These Preachers , whom they call Scheicks , who have had their Education in a Colledge or Convent , and have spent their time in the study of the Alcoran , and its several Commentaries , are mightily followed , and had in great veneration , and what with their fluency of language , and pretensions to extraordinary measures of devotion and cunning , have a strange kind of influence upon the people , and sometime are made use of as fit and proper instruments to work upon them . Besides these , several are by their places and offices to read the Alcoran . Of which sort are about thirty in number in some of the royal Moschs , who either there , or in the Chappels adjoyning , where the Emperours and the Great Men lye interred , read over the Alcoran every day , each one taking his Section . To which are joyned others , who have a Pension allowed them to come there , and say daily Prayers for the dead . The rest who belong to their Moschs , are inferiour Officers and Servants of the Priests , whose employment is to call to Prayers , to look to the Alcoran and Prayer-Books , to take care of the Mats and Carpets , to light the Lamps , to keep the Church neat and clean , and the like . The Cadyes are the inferiour Justices , placed almost in every Village to see good order kept among the people , to administer Law and Justice , to decide Differences , and to punish Offenders , which they do with severity enough , unless they buy off their punishment . This power they usually buy at a dear rate ; and that they may be no losers by the bargain , they sell Justice as dear , and upon every slight occasion , oppress the poor Christians , make Avanias , and demand Sums of Money upon a pretended fault or breach of the Law , and oftentimes force Travellers to give them so much Money in specie , as they set upon their heads . Such greedy Extortioners are they , as most Francs know , who have travelled far into the Countrey , by their sad experience . As for Presents , they expect them of course upon their first coming into their Towns ; and as if they were due and recoverable by Right and Law , as well as by injustice and violence , if we have been a little slow in making them , they have sent an Officer to demand them . For as soon as the News of the arrival of any Western Christian is brought to the Cady , he seems sure of a prey . Before we stirred out of our Caravan-serai , which the piety of the Turks hath built for the use and accommodation of Travellers , to view the Antiquities of any place , we were first to obtain the leave of the Cady by a Present of Coffee , or Pepper , or Sugar , and sometime of all three ; and unless we had done so , we could have had no security , ( for by some devilish trick or other he would have put us to a greater trouble and expence ) which together with the necessary guard of Souldiers to attend , makes travelling so dear and chargeable in Turkey . Coming to Anchor on the North-side of the Castles at the Dardanels , where is the narrowest strait of the Hellespont , as they force all Ships to do that come from Constantinople , and to lie there three Suns to search them , if they have no Contraband Goods or Slaves , which have made their escape from their Patrons ; we went ashore , and had scarce past through a Street or two in Sestos , but we were overtaken by an Officer sent from the Governour to bring us before him : we understood the meaning of it , and therefore in our way to the Castle bought some Coffee Powder , for a Present , which we put into his hands , who after some idle questions dismist us . But for the most part in our Land-voyages , we prevented the demands of the several Cadyes , out of which number I except the rascally Cady of Sardes : He hearing that there were several Franks got into the publick Chane , very imperiously sent for his Present ; we replied , that we had the Emperor's Pass to exempt us from all injury and exaction , and to travel unmolested ; for such a one two English Gentlemen had procured at Constantinople , passing thence over land to Smyrna , which they gave us to make the best use we could of it in our Voyage to the Churches . But the truth is , we did not rely so much upon the Pass , as our number and the weakness of the Village : For this once glorious City the Metropolis of Lydia , which has nothing of its ancient glory and state left , unless that the great ruines shew what it has been before Earthquakes and War , and the barbarousness of the Turks had caused those horrid and frightful desolations there , is become a very pitiful and despicable place , made up of a few Hutts and Cottages . Pretending to be satisfied with the sight of our Passport , he counterfeits respect and civility , and desires us to give him but half a Dollar ; but by the advice of the Janizaries , we did not think fit to give him , being such a low-spirited Fellow , not so much as a single Asper ; upon which denial he could not contain his weak passion , and therefore severely forbids a poor Christian , that we employed in buying us some Provisions , to be any way assisting to us . Afterward when we were at leisure to reflect upon what we had done , we began to condemn our selves or our Imprudence , that might have given us so much trouble , which for so small a Sum as was demanded , might have been better prevented , being afterward sensible , that neither our Swords nor Pass might have been of sufficient proof against his rage and madness . They look upon the Alcoran as containing not onely the Word and Will of God , dictated by the Angel Gabriel to Mahomet , concerning the Rites and manners of his Worship , but the body of the Civil Law referring to matters of Justice and Government ; and therefore , as I said before , use its authority in the decision of Cases that happen daily in conversation and commerce ; and where it is defective , as it must needs be , they call in to their assistance their Sunna , made up of the Sayings and Acts of their Prophet , derived down to them by Oral tradition , from Father to Son , as they pretend , and of equal authority with the holy Book : and because innumerable cases happen , that are so perplext and confused , that neither written nor traditional Law have made any provision for them , equity and right reason are to interpose and determine , but no where are less practised than in Turkey , where the Cadyes make all to bend to their covetous humour ; and yet to keep the fraud from being discovered , wrest some obscure sentence of the Alcoran in defence and favour of their unjust determination . The Cadyes are necessarily bred up in the knowledge of the Mahometan Law , to qualifie and fit them for their office ; to which purpose there are Colledges , endowed by Emperors and great men in most of the great Cities , for the Education of Youth ; and Professors , men of great age and experience and learning , appointed to direct and govern their Studies , whose office and place procure them great respect among the people , they seldom walking in the Streets , but are mounted upon excellent horses , richly caparison'd , which is indeed the usual Grandezza of the Turks , and what all men of authority and fashion use , having two or three Slaves walking by . Some of these receive for their Salary about three hundred Aspers a day , and oftentimes are preferred to a Mollaship , whom they presume by their long study to have digested the whole Law , and to be perfect Masters of it : They are obliged to teach publickly the young Students twice a week , on Saturday and Monday , and to exact an account of their behaviour , and of the progress of their Studies : and if upon examination they find the success answerable to their expectation ; after a set time they have the degree and title of Danishmend or Learned conferred on them . Each has his Cell , over a set number of which is placed a Supervisor to prevent idleness and the practice of worse vices . According to the fame of their merit , some are preferred to places of Judicature ▪ others to rich Moschs , who together with some of the Dervises bred up in their Convents , prove the great Preachers , and have that mighty influence upon the people , as before was mentioned . Every Cady , besides an Actuary and Apparitor , and such like Officers , has his Naip or Assistant , who sees that the Weights are just , and the Provisions which are brought to the Market , be wholsom , and sold at a moderate price ; for which purpose they walk the Streets and enter into Shops , and those of Bakers especially , whose bread if they find wanting of its just weight , besides a pecuniary mulct they impose , they oftentimes throw them into Prison ; or if the fraud be but light , they bring them out and drub them upon the place . But for all this pretended justice and severity , if they bribe but the Officer before-hand , they may cheat the people securely . I found the Turks excessively pitiful and good natured towards dumb creatures , soon putting them out of their pain , if they were necessitated to kill them . Some buy birds on purpose to let them fly away and return to the liberty of the Woods and open air . The Vultures fly up and down the Courts of the great houses in the City , as if they had perceived by natural instinct , that Mahomet , whose birds they are fancied to be , had forbid under a penalty any one to shoot at them . The Storks , which in the Spring-time return out of the Southern Climates to the very same Nests the sharpness of the Winter drove them from , enjoy their natural liberty without the least molestation ; and if at any time in our travels we shot at them , our Janizaries would take it amiss , and look upon it as ominous , as if some mischief would certainly befall us for our cruelty to the poor innocent birds . For though they use hawking , and take them with Birdlime , and sometime use their Guns and eat their flesh , yet they are not very much accustomed to such dainties , and never kill them for the sport and pleasure of it , especially if they are not proper and good for food ; which is the reason of the great number of Cormorants and other revenous Fowl hovering over the Bosphorus , and the arm of the Sea that divides Pera from Constantinople . But above all they seem to have a peculiar love and kindness for Dogs , which yet are the ugliest and of the worst Race that ever I saw . They will not indeed admit them into their houses , because they are unclean creatures ; but however lest the Winter-air should be too sharp and piercing , there are distinct Kennels in every street , to which they peculiarly belong , and a daily provision is made of water put into hollow Pits . I have observed some mighty tender-hearted Janizaries go to a Bakers shop and buy an Asper or two of bread to bestow by way of charity upon them : when at the same time , if a poor Christian had been ready to perish for want of a little relief , the sight of such a miserable object would have no way moved them to pity : and though they are so troublesom , in the night especially , no one dares either stab them or poyson them without danger of being stabb'd himself if the fact were discovered . How idly and fondly superstitious they are herein , will appear by the ensuing relation , which though it hapned in the time of Achmet , yet still holds true , and represents their present temper . The Plague raging very hot , the Emperour and the Bassas at last seemed to make a mighty discovery , that it was necessary to destroy the Dogs in and about Constantinople , to prevent the further spreading of the Infection : but the Mufti , who was consulted in this weighty Affair , would by no means give way to so bloody and cruel a sentence , maintaining it was altogether unlawful ; and that he might not seem to be peremptory without cause , he added this momentous reason , that Dogs had souls , and therefore were to be exempt from this universal and horrid carnage . But it was a plain case , so great a number of Dogs was a real mischief : what therefore was to be done in this great strait and perplexity of mind ? Upon the Mufti 's sentence they recalled the former order about their slaughter , and resolved to transport them over the Water to Asia-side ; above fifty thousand were found upon the Muster , and carried over to Scutary and the Neighbouring places : but though they were out of sight , yet they were not out of mind ; and their care of them seemed to be doubled , and Provisions were sent daily over to keep life and soul together , in compliance with the Mufti 's learned and philosophical determination ; till at last growing weary of the expence and trouble , and fearing they might infect the places where they were , with great trouble and reluctancy of mind they conveyed them to some of the uninhabited Islands that lie in the Propontis toward the Bay of Nicomedia , where they were famished . But the City since is so pester'd with them , that I believe if a new Muster were now made , the number would be found to be greater . No one must offer to kick or touch any of them ; if a Christian does this by chance , they impute it to his hatred and ill will , and will be sure to chide , if not beat him for it : as one in a great fury askt a Christian , who through great haste and carelesness trod upon a Mangey Curr , that lay in the way , Thou Infidel , how dost thou know , but that thy fathers soul is in that poor dog ? shewing by this his love to the dog , and his zeal for his opinion : for he was one of those who maintained the idle Pythagorean dream of a 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or transmigration of Souls . They still retain the absurd principle of fate , which is the genuine issue of their gross ignorance and barbarousness . This makes them encounter the greatest dangers of Death with such desperate boldness ; fearless and secure , as to their thoughts , in the time of a raging Plague . The contagion does not hinder them from visiting persons infected , with the same freedom , as if they were only sick of an ordinary Fever ; they wipe their faces with the Handkerchiefs of their dead Friends , and put on the very cloaths they but lately died in : their confidence being grounded upon this foolish belief , that every man's destiny is written in his forehead , and not to be prevented or kept off by care or Medicine , that the term of life is fatal and peremptory , and that it is in vain to go about to extend it beyond the set Period ; and that Physick is to be taken not to prolong life , but to take off from the anguish and bitterness of death , and to make the pangs of it the more tolerable and easie : and that it is a piece of folly to think to escape . This error destroys thousands of them yearly , who hasten their own death by their conceitedness and folly : which is true of the common people especially , in whose minds this fancy is so rooted , that they think it a kind of Sin as well as weakness to relinquish their houses , and retire to more wholsom air ; what , say they , is not the Plague the dart of the Almighty God ? and can we escape the blow that he levels at us ? is not his hand steady to hit the persons he aims at ? can we run out of his sight , and beyond his power ? thus calling in the belief of some of the Divine Attributes to the maintainance of it . Indeed some of the Cadyes , who seem to be the only men of deep sence and understanding among them , are aware of the pernicious consequences of this Doctrine , and when the Plague grows hot and violent , provide for the safety of their Families by a timely flight into the neighbouring Villages , where they keep them till the fury of it is spent ; while entire Families ( and one I heard of in our time in Galata consisting of six and thirty persons ) which have stay'd behind , have been destroy'd . The Plague necessarily diffuses its Poison among them , having no Antidotes and Preservatives against it , or Remedies to make use of when it has seized upon them : By such a general neglect and promiscuous mixing one with another the distemper is heightned , and makes great wastes , especially toward the end of Summer , when the heats are so excessive , and the Fruits , and the Melons and the Gourds ripen , which both Turks , Greeks and Armenians much indulge themselves in . Constantinople is scarce all the year long free from the Plague , although it remits of its fury in the cold weather , the nastiness of several places of the City , and the stoppage of their common shores , and the dead dogs putrifying in their streets contributing much to it ; which the wiser sort cannot but acknowledg ; but they are so used to the Plague , that they are not much solicitous about it . They do not think of making any publick Prayers and Intercessions , till a thousand bodies are carried daily out at Adrianople Gate to the publick places of Burial , which lye in the plain without the City , and are extended from the Propontis to the Haven . For though it be an arrow that cannot be put by , yet they acknowledg it is in the hand of God , and that he can stop it if he pleases ; and so are forced at last to acknowledg the weakness and falsity of their own Principle . At such times , as also when the affairs of the Empire are in an ill posture by reason of War , the Grand Signior and Mufti attended by the Bassas , and a great number of Priests in solemn procession , pass over the Water to Pera-side , where upon a high hill a little above Kasim Basha in that part of it they call Okmidan , where at other times the better sort of Turks use to shoot ( which is one of their greatest exercises ) on the edge of it toward the South-east is a little Square of about twenty paces long , andas many broad , hemm'd in with Freestone about two foot from the ground , where I found a stony Pulpit ascended to by ten steps ; on the top of which the Mufti makes his prayers : after which Ceremony is over , they think they have done all they can do , and leave off all further care . This is their great argument of comfort upon the death of their friends , that it is the decree and pleasure of God , which they are to submit to , and that all humane counsels and remedies are ineffectual against his will , ( which is a great truth in it self , but very much misapplied by them ) and that so long they are to live , and not a minute longer : as I remember a Turk who escaped being buried under the ruines of a wall , that fell as he past by , said , when he was recover'd from his surprize , Egel ghelmedi , that the hour of his death was not yet come , without giving God thanks for his great deliverance . Some of them indeed seem to have a great reverence and fear of God , which they shew both by their gestures and discourses , whensoever they have occasion to mention his name ; referring all things , not only the events of war , or any great undertaking , but of a journey , and the private concerns of their life , to his will and disposal , ratifying their promise and purpose with this condition , In Shallah , if God will ; beginning nothing of any moment , not stepping out of their door , nor mounting a Horse but in the name of God. In any danger or distress they quiet their fears , and encourage others not to despond , with the remembrance of the mercy , power , and goodness of God , often crying out , Allah karim , God is gracious , Allah ekbir , God is great , and the like ; out of a sense of their own weakness , flying to God to help and protect them ; and when the danger is over , the journey finished , or the design accomplisht to their satisfaction , they repeat often these words , Alhemdo lillah , praise to God , by way of gratitude and acknowledgment . This is the temper of some of the more religious among them . There are others who run into the extreme of irreligion ; Atheists in their hearts and in their lives ; among which I may reckon justly enough the greatest part of the Cadyes , and almost all the Apostate Christians . These latter , who conscious to themselves of horrid crimes , which the Laws of Christendom have made capital ; or else of dissolute lives , and wallowing in brutality , that they may enjoy their lusts more freely , and without check and remorse of conscience , embrace the Mahometan Religion , look upon it and all other Religions as a meer cheat , and by their lives shew the disesteem of them . The other being men whose understandings are somewhat refined by their education from the stupidity and dulness of the ordinary Turks , sensible of the idle fopperies of the Alcoran , and of the imposture of Mahomet , and of the absurdities of his Doctrine , and the inconsistency of it with the principles of right Reason , rashly conclude of Religion in general , that it is a trick of State , and an invention of Policy ; and that the belief of a God and of Providence is wholly owing to the credulity and superstition and unjust fears of mankind . Only they are so wise and cunning to conceal their Atheism , which they are so justly suspected to be guilty of , for fear of the great danger an open profession of it would involve them in . For the Turks are mighty zealous for the existence of a Deity against the Atheist , and think such a person not worthy to breath in the air , who dares deny this fundamental principle of nature . And the example of such a just severity is very fresh in their memories , as hapning in the year of Christ M.DC.LXI , upon a certain Mahometan , which I shall here put down from the mouths of credible persons , who knew the man very familiarly . This Mahomet Ephendi ( which is a title of respect they usually bestow upon men of learning and authority ) was born in Larr in Armeuia major , a man of great esteem in Constantinople among all who knew him , for his skill in the Law , and in the Arabick and Persian languages , of a temper mild and sociable , which made him covet the acquaintance and friendship of several Western Christians , from whom he could learn somewhat , and whom he acknowledged to understand the laws of discourse , and to reason much better than his Brother Turks , whom he lookt upon as very dull and heavy fellows . His inquisitive genius put him upon the search of several things , and his pride and conceitedness were so great , that he thought he had found the secret indeed , which all the Atheists have been seeking after to quiet and banish those fears which perpetually haunt their guilty minds . Ambitious of fame and applause , he sets up for a profest Atheist , being so far from suppressing these extravagant fancies , the effect of the greatest madness whatever , that he takes care to divulge them in all companies where he thought to meet with opposition , and disputes fiercely against the being of a God. Whenever he went to visit Signor Warner , whose extraordinary learning and worth derived a great lustre upon his publick character , the first salute upon the very sight of him was , there is not , meaning a God ; to which the Resident would immediately reply , there is ; after which they would often descend to a close dispute about that dictate of universal nature , and right reason ; but he had so hardned his heart against all conviction , and blinded his mind and understanding with absurd and irrational prejudices , and foolish and vain imaginations , that though he could not well sustain the mighty shock of arguments which the learned Resident level'd at him , yet he flatter'd himself he could fully satisfie them all , and that he had the better of him . But in the miserable end of this wretch the Divine justice was as much seen as if he had been consum'd by Lightning from Heaven . There hapning in the publick Caravanserai , where he lodged , a quarrel between him and some Armenian Christian Merchants , they carried him before the Caimacam , who is the Governour of Constantinople , who had for his Assistant the chief Justice of the City , whom they call Stambol Ephendi . The injury he had done the Armenians was proved by several Witnesses ; and in the close the Turks , who were present , acquainted the Judges of the temper of the man , and accused him of several impieties he was guilty of , as that he never came to the prayers of the Mosch , neglected the other rites instituted by their Prophet , drank Wine freely , and that in the time of Ramazan ; and besides , that he openly maintained that there was no God. The contestation through the zeal of the Turks grew very hot , and matter of fact seemed to be fully made out by just proof . Whereupon the Governour demanded of him , what he could say for himself ? whether the evidence against him were true or no ? here several unanimously agree , that you deny the being of a God. He replied without any demur or feat , you would be of the same mind if you knew as much as I know . They advise him , if he valued his life , to retract his foolish and impious opinion , otherwise they would pass the sentence of death upon him . They give him time to consider of it , and expect that whatever his private sentiments were , fear of death would make him confess his belief of a Deity . But it seems he would be a Martyr for his Atheism , and chose rather to dye than confess he was in an error , and dissemble his inward thoughts ; whereupon he is sentenced to dye ; he continues as perverse and obstinate as ever , even in the last moments of his life . For being set upon a Mule with his face toward the tail , and carried to the place of punishment , and admonisht by the Subashi or Officer , who attended upon the execution , to recant his error ; his only answer was , that the filth ( for so I chuse modestly to express it ) he was to eat he would eat presently ; meaning by the rude Proverb , that he was willing to dye as soon as might be . Thus he perisht in his folly , being between fifty and sixty years of age , and leaving a considerable sum of money behind him , infatuated by the just judgment of God , which became most visible in his deserved ruine . The Janizaries are the strength of the Turkish Empire ; anciently the Sons of Christians , violently taken from their Parents at six and seven years of age , as it pleased the Collectors , sent into Bosna and Servia and the other Provinces of Europe ( for by common observation they find the Asiaticks to make the worst Souldiers , the pleasantness of the Soil , and the mildness of the Air having an influence upon their tempers ) who take one or two out of a Family , if it be numerous ; and these afterward embracing a new Religion , razing out the obligations of nature , and by their severe education hardned against all impressions of pity and good nature , prove the greatest plagues and tormentors of their Relations , and are the cruel instruments of their servitude . The collection of these Children of Tribute , is not triennial , as some have fancied , but happens sooner or later according to the necessities of State , and as the number and proportion of Souldiers is to be more or less supplied . Constantinople , and very many other places are to the great joy and comfort of the poor Christian inhabitants exempted from this dismal exaction , and particularly all Moldavia and Wallachia ; but these Countries being tributary and under the Turkish Government , the respective Princes , which they constitute and put out as they please , are obliged to appear with such a number of Horsemen in the Field , when the Scene of the War lies either in Hungary or Poland , and by this means they enlarge their Conquests in Christendom by the Arms of professed Christians . These Children are called Agiamoglans , that is , rude and unexperienced Boys , whereof some are dispersed into several parts of the Country , that they may the better be enured to want and labour and hardship , and initiated in the Principles and Rites of Mahometanism , and learn the Turkish language . Others are placed in certain Colledges , built on purpose for their reception , ( of which sort is that at Constantinople , and another at Pera , hard by the Palace , the ordinary Mansion of the English Ambassadors successively ) which are the Seminaries of the Youth of this Order , and where they pass their novitiate . Here they are under the eye of most rigorous , severe and cruel Masters , and are forced to the vilest offices , to mortifie them , and make them humble and obedient ; here they are taught to be at the command of a beck or nod , and if any way faulty , are sure to receive a severe chastisement ; here they learn the first principles and rudiments of War. This is according to their original institution by Morat , the first who setled this new Militia or Army , as the word Janizary signifies ; which out of respect to the Founder and Order is still retain'd . But there discipline of late years has not been kept up to this great height of severity , but is very much relaxed and corrupted . And because that according to the usual maxime of policy , which experience hath so often confirmed and rendred little less than infallible , Empires are kept and preserved by the same arts wherewith they were first establisht , which ceasing , they begin to moulder into pieces : We may look upon this decay of discipline as a good omen , that the Turkish Empire , which has been rais'd to that great pitch and degree of glory , upon the ruin of so many Kingdoms and Governments , grows towards an end ; the same fate usually attending Governments , as single persons , that after a set period of years , broken with intestine factions and divisions , or weakned with idleness and the charmes and delights of a long and uninterrupted peace they perish and decay . They are not now so solicitous to fill up those seminaries with Agiamoglans , which anciently were accounted the hope and growing strength of the Empire ; and indeed of late years they have spent such a vast number of Soldiers in the Wars , that they cannot get supplies hence fast enough to serve the necessities of War. A very considerable part of the veterance Soldiers was lost in Candia , which they themselves have called the burying place of Musulmans . For by a very just calculation from their first landing in the Island , and sitting down before Canea to the surrender of the chief City , what by Plague and what by Sword and Mine above four hundred thousand perisht there ; the tediousness and disadvantages of the War were so grievous and irksome to them , that the Janizaries went thither very unwillingly and without any heart to fight , who dread all expeditions by Sea , upbraiding the Emperor with the misfortunes and ill success of the design , while their Country was impoverish't by the Temins , a false Coin of mixt and base mettal , ( which were imported in vast quantities by the French & Italian Merchants ) & that the Soldiers were thrown away in Crete , & yet for all this , that he went a hunting . To supply the Siege , which made such continual wastes of them , I have known several country fellows taken from the plough , and enrolled Janizaries without any previous exercises of arms . Formerly all the Constantinopolitan Janizaries were quartered in two spacious houses under the banners of their respective officers , and kept guard and watch ; but now for a little present they are dispenst from this attendance , and are permitted to marry , and accordingly several make use of the indulgence ; the cares of the world put them upon arts of gain to maintain themselves and their families ; and natural affection takes off their minds from the pursuit and love of armes , and makes them chuse rather to lye at home in their houses than go into the field . They are busied in the management of trade , and turn shop-keepers , and by an idle and sedentary kind of life remit much of their warlike ambition and fierceness , and are become soft and effeminate ; all their thoughts and wishes being for peace and quiet . But however , the privileges of the Janizaries being so great and the name honourable , they get their children admitted into the same order ; of which they are very tender and solicitous ; and lest they should any way be diminish't by any publick council or trick of State , there are several of their order , ( I think about twelve , whom they call Ogiack Agaler ) constituted as so many Tribunes to take care of them . These Agitators are the men whom they respect as their Patrons and defenders , and who have such a great power and influence upon them . If they give but the word , they are presently up in arms , and the Piazzas and Streets are full of seditious tumults , and the Seraglio it self not safe from their assaults . For they know well enough that the Government is jealous of their strength , that it is in their power either to depose or make what Emperor they please , that they are the safeguard of the Empire ; that Osman uncle to this Emperor had a design of destroying their whole order , and setting up another , which should be more at command and not so dangerous to the publick , as they are upon every discontent ; that his successors carry on the same evil designs against them , and that it is want of a good opportunity , that hinders them from putting the same in execution and practice . Whence arise their care and their fears ; and proportionably their pride and insolence and extravagant demands of greater priviledges encrease , and the distrust they have of the Emperor makes them unite more closely and shew a greater regard and respect to their officers , who manage their interest . They are wholly exempt from the civil jurisdiction , be the crime never so directly contrary to the Laws ; they are only triable among themselves : if it be judged and proved capital , before they execute the sentence , they first strike his name out of the Register , and then do it privately and in the night , to prevent the disorders this unruly sort of men are too apt to be guilty of . In every City and large Town , where they abound , there is a superior officer , whom they call Serdar , to whose jurisdiction they are obnoxious . He according to his orders , sent either from the Vizir or Janizary Aga or General , musters those who are within his Province , and disposes of them according to the exigences of the present circumstances . If any quarrel happen among themselves , they must stand to his decision ; before him they can only be impleaded by others ; and the partiality they shew to them is so great , that it is much better to take an injury patiently , than to go about to redress it by a complaint , which oftentimes too is resented and revenged . Such an opinion they have of themselves , that they think they may do any thing , and for all that go unpunisht . It is the grand concern of the Emperor to make a wise choice of a General over these masterful Slaves , of whose fidelity he may rest assured , knowing the great mischief he may do by his influence and authority ; and if there be but the least shadow of suspicion , he will take care , upon some plausible pretence , to put him out of his command ; the very least compliance and popularity among the Souldiers would draw him within the danger and guilt of treason ; so that he is forced to be stiff and fierce , and to draw upon him their ill-will and hatred , to keep himself in the good graces of the Emperour , who yet has a watchful eye over him , and entertains continual jealousies and fears of him , though never so much at the devotion of the Seraglio . He has the Government of no Province , City , or Castle ; has no share in the management of State-affairs ; is accounted inferior not only to the Vizir Azem , but to the other Bassas of the Port. If sometime he be admitted into the Divan or Council , he is only to hear , and never to speak , but when his opinion is askt . They will not suffer him to nominate his Lieutenant-General , for fear they should conspire , and make new alterations in the Government ; and justly ; for considering the power and insolent behaviour of the Janizaries , it is far from being improbable , that as they have rais'd the Empire to that heigth of honour and greatness by their valour , so they will one day be the ruine of it by their mutinies and seditions . They are continually in pay , which is various , according to the quality , age , and merit of the person , from three Aspers a day to twenty , which they receive four times a year quarterly . They are usually reckon'd of late years about fifty thousand ; scarce a third part go into the wars together , the rest being in Garrisons upon the confines of Hungary , Persia , and Dalmatia , and are drawn out upon occasion . And great numbers of them are found at Cairo , Buda , and Bagdat , to overaw the Egyptians , who are of a very unsetled and inconstant temper , very prone to sedition , and desirous of shaking off the Turkish Government , and only to be restrained by force . Before they meet at the general place of Rendezvous , a proportion of money is distributed among them , to provide themselves with necessaries against evil events ; but their chiefest care is to get warm Clothes , to defend themselves from the violence of the wind and cold , and to lay in provision della bocca , as the Italians call it , to pass the time of their lying in the field , or before a besieged place a little better . Each has his Tin-pot and his Coffee , and a quantity of Pulse , Rice , Flesh dried in the Sun , and beaten into powder for his broth , Onions and Salt in his little Sack ; this is the usual entertainment of the Camp. Every Fountain supplies them with drink ; for it is a crime punishable with death , and as rigorously executed at such a time , to bring Wine among them . They go soberly to destroy their enemies . They permit no women to come nigh the Army . All private quarrels are forbid under pain of death ; the least provocation is severely punish'd . Their marchings and encampings are done without noise ; silence being one great part of their military discipline . They ever are in a readiness to charge , and go wherever they are commanded , being fearless of danger and of death it self . The Spahyes are another great support of the Turkish Empire ; Soldiers who are obliged to serve on Horseback by the tenure of the Lands ( Timars ) and Estates they are possest of ; these being not only the reward of their sweat and blood , but tyes and obligations to further service in the field upon the first summons ; each bringing so many Horses with him according to the value of what he holds , which is the reason they do not receive an Asper of pay out of the Grand Signiors Exchequer , and are therefore known by the name of Timar-Spahyes , or Feudatory , to distinguish them from other Spahyes who live in the Cities , and have not obtain'd a piece of Land ; whose daily pay is very different , proportionably to the worth and merit of the persons , as was said before of the Janizaries ; some receiving twelve Aspers , and others an hundred . Of these they reckon about twenty three thousand in Europe , and as many or more rather in Asia ; for their number is uncertain , and encreases with their victories ; and sometimes a rich Timar is divided upon the death of the former possessor into many parts ; besides such as live about Buda on the one side , and Etzrum and Bagdat on the other , who are not obliged to go out of their Quarters . We must not think that when they war against Christendom , they make bare the limits and frontiers of the Empire towards Persia . These Spahyes are no better than Country Farmers ; their minds are so taken up with the study of good Husbandry , and the pleasure of enjoying what they have has so taken off their minds from the fatigues and hardships of a Souldiers life , that by money and presents oftentimes they labour to get themselves exempted from that personal service they owe their Emperor ; which is one reason ( the success of a Battel depending more upon discipline than number ) they do not care to bring such vast Armies into the field , as in the last age , when Suleiman carried a hundred thousand Horse with him in the Hungarian war , when he flattered himself he should become Master of the Imperial City of Vienna . Every Spahy is so loaden with Arms , that he seems to carry an Armory with him , having a short strong Bow , the same questionless which the old Parthians made use of , with his Quiver of Arrows , Sword , Gun , Sheild , Lance , at the top of which hangs a little Banner , which shews to what order he belongs . For there are six orders and degrees of them , distinguishable by the different colours of their Banners ; Red which is that of Spahioglauleri , Yellow that of Selichtari , Green , White , White and Green , Red , and White . Long experience has taught them the use of these several weapons , which they manage dextrously upon occasion ; as they do their Horses , which they can stop upon a full career at the distance of a foot . It is a pleasant sight to see them divert themselves by throwing darts on Horseback , which they do with great strength and dexterity , turning and winding their Horses at pleasure . There is another sort of Feudatories , whom they called Zaims ; fewer in number than the Spahyes , obliged to the same services , but with greater proportions of men , having considerable Lordships . To qualifie their Children to inherit , their great care is to send them to the Camp , and breed them up Souldiers . In all their warlike expeditions great numbers of Volunteers offer themselves ; some out of a design to succeed into the places of the Janizaryes and Spahyes , who shall happen to be knockt on the head , which they judg worthy of their adventure ; for if it be their fate to dye in the field , they believe they shall directly go into Paradise ; and if they survive a Battel , they are sure to be enrolled in the Grand Signiors pay , which is the only ambition they seem capable of . Others out of a principle of zeal , for the propagation of Religion , who usually prove the most desperate , and seldom come off alive ; and to make the act meritorious , maintain themselves , and think the service it self a sufficient reward . The Auxiliary Forces are the Christians of Moldavia and Wallachia , of whom before . Next , the Tartars , not so much by virtue of an old compact , that in case of faileur of the Ottoman line , their Prince shall succeed , as some pretend , but out of an interest to gain by the war , come in to their assistance . They are more for their prey than for fight , which they endeavour to avoid , till necessity and shame put them upon it . They carry with them usually a great number of lead Horses , which are of double use , either to set their miserable Captives upon , or in case their provision should fail , to serve them for food ; Horseflesh being one of the Tartarian dainties , and which is sold in the Market an Asper in the pound more than Beef or Mutton . Thousands of poor miserable Christians are forced into the wars , and serve only for Pioners , having no other Arms than a Mattock and a Spade ; sometimes placed in the front of the Army to break the fury of the onset ; or else in a Siege , when they go to storm , thrust forward , that upon their bodies the Janizaries may pass the more securely . The Turkish Souldiers do not care to go out of their Winter-quarters till the Spring , when they may find grass for their Horses ; nor will they keep in the field after October , unless bribed with promises of reward , or forced to it by some urgent necessity . Among their Baggage there are usually great quantities of metal , to cast great Guns upon occasion ; which they find more convenient oftentimes , than to carry Artillery with them , especially in long and tedious marches , where there is no conveyance by water . The many great victories the Turks have gained over the Christians , are too sad and convincing a proof of their valour , which is heightned and rendred desperate by a concurrence of causes added to the severity of their discipline and education . Before they engage , if there be any opportunity , the Surat or Chapter of the Sword is read out of the Alcoran ; which contains a warrant from Heaven to exterminate and destroy all who set themselves against this new Law , revealed by God to Mahomet ; hence their perswasion and their zeal receive new vigor and force , that they fight in the defence of Gods cause , which makes them look upon cowardise and faint-heartedness as a sin . For who can be so base and unworthy as not to be ambitious of dying at such a time , when they are the Champions of God ? The signal being given , they run upon their enemies with the name of God in their mouths , confusedly repeating it several times , and invoking him to assist and maintain his own cause , which they are fighting for . The doctrine of Predestination and Fate contributes not a little to their fury ; upon confidence of which principle they expose themselves to certain dangers , believing themselves safe in the midst of them , if God has so decreed it ; which they do not know , whether he has or no , but by the event ; and if so , all their wariness and endeavours to escape signifie nothing in the end . They are convinc'd by a thousand examples before their eyes , that this is the readiest way to rise to a command , that there is a certain reward due to valour , and that the Bassas and all the other great Officers owe all to their Scymitars . Thus solicitous of fame and honour , they value not their lives in fighting , knowing , that if they come off , they are sure to be preferred . But the most effectual and efficatious machin to skrew up their courage to the highest degree and pitch of desperation is an opinion , which by the artifices and insinuations of the Churchmen passes for infallible among the Souldiers , that whoever dyes in the wars , is in the account of God and Mahomet a Martyr ; his death expiates and atones all his sins of what nature soever ; that ipso facto he merits the joys and pleasures of Paradise , and his Soul shall not be kept to attend upon the body in the grave , to undergo the examination of the two Angels , which they are so terribly afraid of . A Mufti being consulted in what order the followers of Mahomet shnuld enter into Paradise , determined it in favour of the Souldiers slain in the wars , that they were to have the precedence ; then the honest plowmen ; afterward the Lawyers and Priests ; and the rest promiscuously without any order at all , as they can pass and get in in the croud . Animated with these hopes , they are almost unwilling to live ; no danger terrifies , death does not mate their courage ; the pleasant and wanton thoughts they entertain of their Fools Paradise do so run in their minds . They shew the same , if not a greater , courage in keeping a fortification , where they have fixt their Half-Moon Standard ; much more a Town or City , where they have built a Mosch , when besieged by Christians ; chusing rather to undergo all the hardships of a Siege , or the most dismal consequences of an assault , then any way think of a surrender . This is a mighty piece of Religion among them , that Mahometanism may loose no ground ; rather than so , they will perish , not only without complaint and murmur , but willingly and with joy too . Such a fatal obstinacy are they wrought up to by their superstition . The great wasts , which are made by plague and war , are supplied by the Slaves which are continually brought into the Empire , and by the multitude of women allowed by the Law of Mahomet . It is enough to rend any heart , that gives way to the least impressions of pity , to consider the sad condition of poor Christian Captives in Turkey . They are chiefly brought in yearly by the Tartars , who make excursions into Poland and Russia for several days journeys , and upon their return sweep and carry all before them ; several Ships laden with them in the Ports of the Black Sea ( the old name of Euxine being wholly lost and forgot ) in the months of June and July arriving at Constantinople . This is the great Mart for Slaves , where they are sure to meet with a quick and a good Market , for no commodity is more vendible or merchantable . Or else they are brought along with the Caravans from the farthest parts of the Empire in Asia , out of Georgia and Mengrelia ; wholly intent upon their private gain in the sale . The Tartars while they enrich themselves with this kind of spoil , advance the publick interest of the Turks ; that part of Christendom , which they ravage , being much weakned by the loss of thousands , thus barbarously carried into captivity , and their own Empire enlarged and strengthened by such great accessions . For few ever return to their native Country ; and fewer have the courage and constancy of retaining the Christian Faith , in which they were educated ; their education being but mean , and their knowledg but slight in the principles and grounds of it ; whereof some are frighted into Turcism by their impatience and too deep resentments of the hardships of the servitude ; others are enticed by the blandishments and flatteries of pleasure the Mahometan Law allows , and the allurements they have of making their condition better , and more easie by a change of their Religion : having no hopes left of being redeemed , they renounce their Saviour and their Christianity , and soon forget their original Country , and are no longer lookt upon as strangers , but pass for natives . Every Wednesday morning they are exposed publickly to sale , like so many Horses or Sheep in a Fair , in a peculiar place of Constantinople , which has the name of Jazir Basar , or the Slave-Market , where is an establisht Officer to register the sales . The Area of which is about fifty paces square ; on the sides of it are Chambers , where usually they put the women . Here I have seen , not without horror and confusion of mind ( for pity was too mean a passion , and soon swallowed up with so dismal and frightful a spectacle ) above five hundred at the same time , as so many victims , ready to be offered to Moloch . The poor Children , scarce yet sensible of their misfortune , modest and silent ; and the women , who had any skill in Embroidery , at work with their Needle ; by which artifice the Patrons think to put them off at better rates ; feeding them well before hand , that they may look plump and fat , and seem to be in good case , and putting them on handsom clothes , the better to attract a Chapman . There is scarce a Turk , if he be of any fashion , but has one Slave at least , and some of them twenty , according to the greatness of their estates , and the occasions they have of them . They are their proper goods , and let them out to hire sometime ; whatever they get , is their Masters , who have an absolute power and command over them in all things , except in the case of life and death ; otherwise be their usage never so cruel and barbarous , the poor wretch has no remedy left but patience and submission . It is interest more than good nature and humanity which makes them use them well , and puts them upon providing clothes , victuals , and whatever is necessary to sustain life , that they may yeild them the better service , and for fear they should sicken and dye ; which would prove their loss : the care of them being only the same with that they bestow upon their Cattel . The Bassas and other great men enjoy themselves unto the height , out of foresight , that in an Empire , where all things are so uncertain , and where happen daily such sudden changes and traverses of fortune , they may be soon stript of all ; they will not lose one jot of their grandeur , but mightily pride themselves in it . In their Houses indeed they do not consult pomp and beauty , so much as largeness and convenience ; their riches is more to be seen in their Stables than in the furniture of their Rooms . No Porticos , no Courts laid out in exact proportions , no Galleries adorned with costly pieces of art , nothing either for state or pleasure ; accommodation being chiefly lookt after ; their diet too is course and mean , and far from luxurious , and little differing from that which ordinary persons content themselves with . Their magnificence appears in the number of their Women , of their Servants , and of their Slaves . Being bred up Souldiers , their care and glory is to provide for the security of their Provinces by stores of Arms and other warlike Provisions ; to get an excellent breed of Arabian Horses , whose race they will run you up to several scores of years ; and to have a considerable number of brave , tall , and well proportion'd young men to mount them , and to be of their constant retinue . In this piece of gallantry they strive who shall out-do the other ; which they think is true greatness . The law confines them to a set number of Wives ; but for Women-Slaves they are left to their own choice and liberty . They may heap up as many as their lust and their estate will and can give way to . It is wholly indifferent of what Religion they be , so they be not very heathen . Over them they have a full power , and can dispose of them according to their humour and pleasure ; and send them to the Market , when they are weary of them ; it being no unusual thing for a poor miserable Christian woman to be sold five or six times . I observed a piece of cunning in the Jews , who are well versed in all the little tricks and shifts of gain , and who usually thrive under all Governments , where-ever they are tolerated : They buy little Girls of five or six years of age at the rate of thirty or forty Dollars , and are mighty careful in their education ; teaching them to dance and sing , and instructing them in all the sorts of a winning behaviour ; and the advantage they receive does fully answer their labour and expence ; these accomplishments rendring them valuable at twenty times more than what they cost ; being oftentimes taken into the Seraglio , or into the Families of the Bassas , the ordinary Turks having not wherewithall to make such a purchase . And these mindful of the kindness of their Educators , whose chief design was their own profit , which has been the happy occasion of their preferment , do them , by the interest they get in their respective Patrons , many real and great kindnesses . For the Captive-women there is scarce any possibility to escape ; they are forced to keep at home , and only divert themselves by looking through a lattice of an upper Chamber , if they belong to a person of any condition , who usually keeps a Bagno in his house ; the meaner sort only going abroad , it being disgraceful and scandalous to be seen in publick , except in the Summer time when they are permitted now and then to go into the fields , or pass the strait to Scutary , or enjoy the cool refreshing air of the Bosphorus in a Boat , as I have seen them sometimes , with a black Eunuch in their company , not so much for a guard , as a spy to secure the fears and suspitions of their jealous Lord and Master . Fury and impatience oftentimes drive the Men-Slaves upon desperate attempts of escaping , preferring their liberty to the great hazard of being retaken and the ill consequences of it . Some have lain so long in the woods , and other places , till they have been forced by hunger into the highways , which lead to Towns. The Turks suspect all straglers , and seize upon them either for their own use , or upon the first notice given , to restore them to their Patrons , unless they produce an Hogiet or Paper under the Cadyes hand , that they are free-men . Upon the absence and flight of a Slave they give notice far and wide , and order several to watch at Bridges , which they must necessarily pass . When I pass'd the Bridge laid over the Cayster , not far from Ephesus , too deep to be forded , several Turks had fixt their station there , hoping at that pass to intercept the Slaves they were in quest and pursuit of , and taking us to be as good Musulmans as themselves , desired us , that if in our travels we met with any such , whom they described , we would stop them and carry them before the next Cady . But for all this care on the one side , and hazard on the other , some are so happy to get away , and are mightily favoured in it , by the Western Christians especially , in a Sea-Port Town , when the Ships are upon their departure for Christendom . There is such a visible appearance of Providence in the following stories , that I should not pardon my self if I omitted them . A poor Russ Lad , about twelve years old , being evil intreated of his Master , was resolved to try his fortune , and upon the next opportunity in the evening stole away . He gets hastily over the water out of the City , altogether ignorant whither he went ; a good providence carried him to a Christian Village about a mile from Pera ; he wanders up and down as a Stranger , not knowing in that sad perplexity of mind , where he was , or what he had to do , being equally afraid to go or stay ; it hapned , that one of our Druggermen had at that time business there , and easily guessing him to be a poor Christian run away from his Master , the Lad confest it , and beg'd of him for Christ's sake to take pity on him . The good man promised him to take care of him when it was a little darker , when he could do it with greater security , and with better hope of success . About an hour and a half in the night , he brought the Boy to our House to kiss my Lord Ambassador's Vest ; immediately he was put into a Livery , and a Perruke given him , and kept within doors for some time : but after he began to talk English , he walked the streets securely ; so disguised in his looks and habit , that if his Turkish Master had met him , he would not have known him , he passing for one who had come out of England with us . The other is this , A few days before we set sail for Italy , lying at Anchor in the Bay of Smyrna about a League without the Castle , about midnight the Seamen , who were upon the Watch , heard a mournful voice of one in the water , calling for help ; they immediately run to the sides of the Ship , and spy one almost quite spent with swimming , and ready to sink through weariness ; they throw out a Rope , and get him aboard . We then lay fourteen miles from the City , and about a mile and a half from the shore . When they had recovered him with strong-water and a warm bed , he told us next day , that he was a poor Christian of Russia , of nineteen or twenty years of age , who was resolved to make use of that opportunity of recovering his liberty ; that he got in the evening out of Smyrna , and kept along the shore , till he came to the place over against which our Ship rode : a calm Sea and a bright Star-light night favoured the bold adventure , so that he had the Ship always in his eye ; but the distance deceived him , proving greater than he expected . He throwing away his upper Vest into the Sea , that it might be no hinderance to him in swimming , committed himself to the goodness of God and the water , and with much a-do got to us . We put him into Christian habit , like one of the Seamen ; but for his and our greater security , the Turkish Customers being within a day or two to search the Vessel , lest they should give us or the Merchants any trouble , if they found him with us , our Captain desired the Commander of a Dutch Man of War , that lay in the Bay , to receive him till we set sail : within four days , when we were out of all danger , we received him again , and brought him for England . The condition of the Slaves is more or less tolerable , according to the temper and humour of their Patrons . But of all , a Gally-slave leads the most sad and miserable life : when they are abroad at Sea , perpetually labouring at the Oar , and chained to their seats ; there they are fixed in all weathers ; their only hope being this that violent storms are not very lasting . They must make a virtue of necessity , and are forced to be patient . A love of life and hope one day of being freedmake them submit their backs to the cruel whip ; otherwise death would be a real advantage to them : and some indeed out of a weariness and loathing , of life have been so desperate as to get loose and leap into the Sea. They who are taken in the wars are the Grand Signiors Slaves , and seldom or never get their liberty , unless when a Christian Ambassador intercedes powerfully in their behalf , or that this condition be inserted in the Articles of a Treaty renewed after a rupture by war ; a point the Signoria of Venice in the late accord upon the surrendry of Candia pursued with great zeal , and by the prudent conduct of their Bailo so happily effected , to the great honour of St. Mark. They judg it an indecorum , that the Exchequer should be one Asper the richer for ransoms . No , their Prisoners must linger out their time , and grow old either in their Gallies or Prisons , unless they are met with and over-powered in fight by the Knights of Malta , who are obliged their by their Order to be in perpetual enmity with the Turks , and are a great thorn in their side , and so have their liberty given them by the Conquerer ; or else when their Gallies are halled ashore into their Voltas , by some unexspected chance get away . At such time they are shut up in a spacious Area by the Arsenal , on the North-side of the Haven at Constantinople , enclosed with very high walls , and strict guard kept at the entrance ; and for the greater security , they shackle them in couples . Here I had occasion to go often , to visit and relieve four or five poor English men ; some of which had served Captain Georgio , a famous Greek Pyrate , who was a plague to the Infidels ; but at last by a surprize he fell into their hands , though after a most brave resistance , himself being killed in the encounter , to the great joy of all the inhabitants of the Sea-coasts , whose often visits were so terrible to them : his head was sent as a present to the Emperor , for which the Messenger was considerably rewarded , and the service of the Captain Bassa , who with his whole Fleet of Gallies , assisted by some Ships of Tripoly , set upon his two Ships in a Port of Mitylene , highly magnified , and Songs made upon the victory : my business being to confirm them by my advice in their profession of the Faith of Christ , that no hardship might work upon their troubled minds to make them turn Turks , and to relieve them as I saw their necessities required , with the money that was put into my hand for such Christian uses . The Turks allow them only black bread and water , but for other necessaries of life they are beholding to their Fellow - Christians ; though some of the more handy and ingenious , by some kind of work or other do scrape together a few Aspers to lay in a little provision against the time of their going to Sea. The Christian Commanders and Officers are imprisoned in the Seven Towers , scituated upon the Propontis in the South-East corner of Constantinople . These Gentlemen are the great trophies of their victories ; with these , and their perpetual servitude they seem satisfied in the loss of many thousands killed in the war. They have a daily allowance of fifteen Aspers made by the Emperor , and this is esteemed a mighty piece of bounty , which they cannot safely reject , though the Governour usually gets a third part of it : but being most of noble Families , they are well maintained , not only by their Relations , but by the respective Governments and States under which they served ; considerable sums being yearly sent toward their relief , which is distributed in due proportion according to their quality and character : only I could wish the Hungarian and German Gentlemen , who are Protestants , had a little more justice done them in the distribution , and did not suffer upon the account of their Religion . Here I went three or four times a year to give them the Holy Sacrament , and found easie admission into the Castle , as did the Religious of the Roman Church , to say Mass to those of their Communion , who were far more numerous ; visits were continually made them by their friends ; they had the free use of the Castle , so as they kept within their due limits ; and free liberty of keeping one another company ; and thus they deceived the tediousness of their imprisonment by mutual kindnesses and civilities of conversation ; the Governour of the Castle letting out a Garden to a noble Venetian , who had been taken in Corso , which favour he admitted his fellow-prisoners to . Nothing seemed to be wanting but their liberty to make their life pleasant ; many of them were allowed to keep their Servants , and lay in what provision they pleased ; the Governour being a mild man , and extraordinary indulgent , besides the usual custom of Turks , who think that the right of war will justify the most horrid act of barbarity and brutishness toward their Prisoners , who are to look upon it as a great favour and mercy that their throats are not cut . But after that a French Gentleman a Knight of Malta made his escape in the latter end of the year 1670. in the French-Men of War , which brought their new Ambassador ; the Turks , mad at their remissness , were resolved to revenge themselves upon the remaining Prisoners , treating them with all imaginable despight and cruelty , thrusting them ( having first put iron-bolts upon their legs ) into loathsome Cellars and Dungeons , without the least regard to their quality , and suffering no Christian to come nigh them : and indeed the cruelty and insolence were so great , that without the divine assistance it had been altogether insupportable . The other Slaves , who are in private mens hands , are redeemable at a good price ; but then there must be artifice used in the buying of them . The more forward the Western Christians are to redeem their Countrey-men , the greater price their covetous Masters set upon their heads ; a seeming indifference , whether they are redeemed or no , does very much beat down the ransome . They have rowing in their Galleys Christians of almost all European Nations ; English , and French , and Dutch , and the like . Which must not seem strange , though we have a league of commerce and trade with the Grand Signor and Ambassadors reside in the Port , and the effects and persons of the Merchants are secured by virtue of capitulations , and our Ships pass securely in their Seas . For these foolish men enticed with hope of prey and good pay , deserted the Merchants Ships of their own Countrey , and served under the banners of the Venetians and Malteses , or else privateering Pyrats : the trade being usually gainful , either by intercepting the Alexandrian Saikes in the Archipelago , or by making a descent upon the land : ( the Turks till of late awakened by their losses , not fortifying their Sea-Coasts , and lying naked to the assaults of every bold invader ) but now and then they are snapt themselves , and catch a Tartar ; which hapned to Captain Georgio's men , who were all considerably rich with their plunder ; but greedy of more , lost all , and their liberty to boot : a continued success not being to be hoped for in the uncertainties of War. I remember , that when I was at Smyrna , I attended our Consul in his visit he made Kaplan Bassa , a Georgian , the Admiral of the Turkish Armata . He interceded with him in behalf of several English Sea-men which were in the Galleys ; his answer was , that he had a command from the Emperor to torment such rogues ( for he was out of all patience when he spake of them ) who assisted his enemies ; that they were to thank themselves for their slavery ; that this severity was justifiable by the rights and laws of War ; and that he ought not to supplicate for such , who deserved greater punishment than what they endured . The Bassas and Beyes of the several Islands , which are scattered up and down the Mediterranean , hold their Places and Governments upon condition of furnishing out so many Galleys , according to a fixt proportion , every Summer-expedition at their own expence . If when they are separated from the Fleet , they master an Enemy , both ship and men are their own ; but this hapning but seldom , they are forced to hire or buy Slaves to man their Galleys . These were the men we were forced to deal with . I should here injure my conscience as well as the reputation of my Lord Ambassador and the worthy Factories of Constantinople and Smyrna , if I should conceal with what earnestness and zeal they would lay out great sums of Money in this most Christian piece of Charity , consulting herein very generously the honour of their Religion , and the honour of their Countrey , as it became Christians and English Gentlemen . Fifty pounds sterling is an ordinary price for a Slave ; and so much we have given , and sometimes more . We had a great mind to set at liberty one honest man above the rest , and offered a considerable sum of Money for his ransom ; but it was refused , and would have been , though we had doubled it . For they could not , it seems , well spare him , he being a Sail-maker by his profession , whom they continually employed ; and being sensible how useful he was to them , they used him very kindly ; so that he could complain of nothing but the bare want of liberty . Others of these Beyes out of pride and peculiar hatred to the Christian name and of our Nation , were so obstinate and inflexible , that they were not to be moved or wrought upon , by any overtures of Money , to part with their Slaves ; which distemper we found most raving in the Bassa of Rhodus ; whose example is an instance of the lasting revenge of Turks , which only death can extinguish . His Father had been Captain Bassa , and having according to the usual custom , visited the Islands and the coasts of Greece , went with his Fleet into the Sinus Euboeensis , now called the Gulph of Volo , to the N. of Boeotia or Negropont , where were two English Ships at anchor , taking in Corn , which was contraband , for Christendom ; which he made sure of , as lawful prize , and promised himself an easy victory . The poor Mariners who knew the danger , and the inconvenience they were put to for want of Sea-room , being not able to turn and wind their Ships , were resolved however to fight and die , rather than tamely yield ; there was no hope of flight , or safety , or victory ; which made them the more desperate . He sends them an insolent summons to deliver up themselves immediately ; otherwise he would beat their Ships about their ears ; and threatens them with present death . This most dismal accident , instead of abating , increased their strength , and made them the more furious . The Turks fight for prey , the Christians only for revenge ; and overprest with the disproportioned number of the Infidels , most of them die bravely , some few unhappily surviving to be the triumph and sport of their cruelty . But the Captain Bassa , who thought to gratify his covetous , proud , and revengeful humour , was killed in the fight with a Musket ; the manner of whose death the Son so implacably resented , vowing revenge upon the whole Nation for the misfortune of it , though it hapned above forty years ago ; getting as many English as he can , either by money or violence , into his hands , and using them with all imaginable cruelty and despight to please his Father 's angry Ghost . He had about ten in his Gallies , whom he would not part with at any rate , though we often tried him ; and he a man otherwise very covetous ; but his hatred , and ill will , and revenge , were in him more prevalent passions . The Enthusiasm wherewith Mahomet was so infatuated , did not deprive him of the use of his reason in other matters , relating to the establishment of his Religion , which was to be kept up and propagated by the joynt aids of ignorance and arms : wisely considering the horrid effects of intemperance in a Camp , how inconsistent with the discipline of War , in which his followers were to be trained , ( there being no likelihood of its prevailing upon the understanding of any wise or sober people otherwise ) how the Greeks and Asiaticks had given up themselves to the excessive love of Wine , which introduced softness and effeminacy in their manners , took them off their natural strength and courage both of body and mind , and rendred them less able to endure the hardships that necessarily attend a warlike life ; how the extravagant mirth they were guilty of in their cups , made them unlike men , and ended for the most part in quarrels and blood ; he forbad the use of Wine wholly , as if there had been a Devil in every grape , and that he diffused his evil influence in the juice . No , those who were to be Champions of the Almighty were to be grave and sober , and not any way expos'd to the danger of losing their reason , or having their souls defiled with so prophane a liquor . This he pretends was the command of God , which might easily enough prevail upon a blockish and stupid people , wrought upon by his wiles and artifices , to deny themselves this satisfaction , ( though their taste could not but be affected with the pleasantness , and sweetness and refreshing qualities of Wine , ) and even force their very natures and inclinations to a submission . I expected to have found them as abstemious as they have been fam'd to be , and that no such thing as drunkenness was to be seen among them , or but rarely at least ; this being the peculiar vice wherewith they used to upbraid the Christians and Jews : but I quickly found , that riot and the love of Wine were too strong for their first belief and education ; and that the inclinations of Sense had beaten down the commands of Religion ; that generally all , not only the Renegados but natural Turks , Citizens and Souldiers , were excessively given to it ; except the Priests and old men , and such as had been at Mecca , whose age , and profession , and manner of life rendred them averse from doing a thing so indecent and scandalous ; and that a man could not do a Turk a greater civility and kindness , or more oblige them , than by giving them Wine . For the sake of this they would visit the houses of Christians , and not be satisfied without it . They are for the pure blood of the grape , and wonder at our spoiling the Wine by our mixtutes of water , and think they have not drank enough , till they are able to drink no more . The late Vizir himself was not free from this vice of excessive drinking . For being perswaded ( much about the time of the taking of Candia ) by his Physician a little to transgress the law of his Prophet for his health sake , he no sooner had tasted the sweetness of Wine , ( for till that time he was utterly ignorant whether it were sweet or bitter ) but he loved it ever after ; and was almost angry with his Prophet , for forbidding a liquor so grateful to the palate ; as I believe he was with himself , for living in ignorance so long : it being his constant practice , upon his return from that Island , to indulge himself in it in the afternoon , when he had dispatched the weighty affairs of the Empire , relying , I suppose , upon the strength of a Proverb that holds as true in Turkey as in Christendom , That he who is a wise man in the day , will not be accounted a fool at night . This defection was so gross , general , and notorious , that it alarm'd the Church-men , and filled them with anger and zeal , which broke out in bitter invectives ; they thunder out of their Pulpits , that their Religion and Empire were both like to be at an end speedily , that the violation portended nothing but ruine and desolation ; that the crime grew to that excess and height , that it seemed almost to be above expiation . But the Janizaries , no way moved with their zeal , drink on still . At last a certain Priest , one Vani Ephendi , famous for his eloquence , and who had gained a mighty opinion in the Court for his pretensions to extraordinary piety , ( consisstent , by the practice and law of the Countrey , with a multitude of women , which he kept ) upon Mahomet's birth-day , took the liberty in an harangue before the Emperor , to put him in mind of the quarrels of the Janizaries , occasioned by this devillish liquor , almost in his very sight , and near his Tent ; that this was of evil Omen to the Government ; that the state of affairs were in an ill condition ; that God and Mahomet were highly angry and offended at the practice of so much lewdness , which was universally tolerated ; and that their holy Religion was in great danger of being lost by such prophanation . He very tragically and passionately laments the miscarriage ; then entreats and beseeches with mighty earnestness and zeal the Emperour , to think of a fit remedy , that may put a stop to this growing evil : and for fear his perswasions might be ineffectual , he tells him he shall never enter into Paradise , and thereatens him with everlasting punishment in the other World , unless he removes this grievous Scandal . The Grand Signior was then at Adrianople , who commands immediately the Taverns of the poor Greeks to be shut up ; and the Casks of Wine , the occasion of this great disorder , to be staved in the open streets ; and issues forth his Royal command , that no more Wine should be drank all the Empire over . I cannot but remember , with what horrour the Greeks of Constantinople received the news , how amazed and disheartned and how they lamented and deplored the misfortune , being ready to act the Desperadoes : but their trouble and solicitude are to no purpose , the Emperour commands , and he must be obeyed . The Turks enter the Cellars of the publick houses , and spoil all the Vessels they light upon , where the Greeks and Armenians had not prevented them by their over hast , for fear they should be thought to have disliked or disobeyed the Edict ; for that was universal , and took in Jews and Christians as well as Turks . For they for the future must abstain from Wine out of respect to the Emperour's command , as the Turks out of respect to Mahomet . The Turks are always guilty of Extreams ; when once they have determined upon a thing , though never so rashly and without the due examination of circumstances , or the mischiefs that may follow , they presently proceed to execution . Whatsoever they do , they do it with so much impetuosity and fury , that equity and clemency and civility are wholly laid aside . To add geater force and authority to the command , and to strike a terror into the people , a severe penalty is threatned to be inflicted upon the transgressor : the fear of which made them forbear drinking Wine in private , lest their very breath should betray them . The Christians , who were less careful herein , suffered the punishment of their own folly . For I knew several of them faulty herein seized upon in the streets , and condemned to the Galleys . Our Drugger-men would never venture to drink a glass of Wine , whensoever they crossed the waters and went , as they had occasion , for the business of my Lord Ambassador and the Nation , to the Caimaicam's house ; for this had been an affront , and consequently an aggravation of their fault , for a Christian reeking with Wine to breath in a Bassa's face . In the mean while the Christian Ambassadors were concerned , lest they and their Families , if there were no Vintage the following Autumn , should be involved under the same Inconveniencies ; for the Greeks out of despair left off cultivating their Vineyards , not thinking the bare Grapes , whereof there is such plenty , worth the labour and cost and time ; and it was justly to be feared , lest the Customers in the Sea-port Towns would prove froward and troublesom , and not permit any Vessels of Wine sent for Presents out of Christendom to be carried to their Palaces . The Cadyes too were very fierce in the execution of this Order ; some out of zeal to Religion , others out of a principle of obstinacy and ill will to the Christians ; others out of covetousness to get money for a Licence and Dispensation . This last made the Cady of Jerusalem so fierce upon the poor Religious of the several Communions of Christians there , so as to forbid them the use of Wine in the Holy Sacrament , pretending he did but his duty to the Emperour , when it was a lusty Bribe the Villain aimed at , knowing the obligations their Religion and their vows laid upon them of celebrating a daily Mass , as the event soon shewed . During this disorder the Ambassadors send their Druggermans ( for so they call the Interpreters they make use of in transacting their concerns ) to represent to the Visir and other Bassas the injustice of concluding them under the prohibition ; that it would be a prejudice to their health , to be forced upon the liquors of the Countrey , to which they had not been accustomed ; and that it was against the law of Nations that they should be deprived of the conveniences of humane life ; upon a debate in their Divan , the request seemed just and reasonable , and fit to be complied with , that they should have a liberty of making what quantity of Wine they pleased for their own uses ; for they would extend the priviledge no further . The Ambassadors were unsatisfied with this order , but made further demands , that all the Western Christians , who were under their protection , dispersed in the several Factories of the Empire , might enjoy the same favour . The Bassas demur upon it , and pretend this would enervate the force of the Emperor's edict ; and that such a concession would have an evil influence upon the Government , which is preserved by a punctual submission to his will and pleasure , which was the highest reason of a law . All likelyhood of success seemed to vanish ; our Druggerman however was commanded to attend , and take all opportunities of making new proposals in his Master's name : The matter is put off from day to day , but at last ( for it was four months first ) being wearied with continued demands , they suffered their obstinacy with great difficulty to be overcome . The drinking of distilled liquors was equally forbid ; for the Turks seemed more pleased with them than with Wine , as affecting their stomacks and brain with greater heats and tittillations . Neither Turks nor Greeks are skilful in the arts of distillations ; but do it in so rude and gross a way , as that it rather seems a boyling of liquors , than a separating the pure and spirituous parts from the gross and saeculent ; which makes a company of Brutes , who make sense if not the only yet the leading principle of life so mad for strong waters sent out of Christendom , distilled with so much art and cost , out of spices , herbs , and such like hot materials and ingredients . They have no moderation and command over themselves or appetite , and think it can never be satisfied , unless cloyed with excess . And if any Turk , who indulges himself in the drinking of Wine or strong Waters , does not lose his reason , and returns sober from such a debauch , it must be wholly imputed to the strength of his brain , not to his good will , much less to his virtue . Besides their Coffee and Sherbet , which last is used by the better sort in the heats of Summer to quench and allay their thirst , the ordinary people drink sometimes other liquors ; one they call Bozza , made of a kind of Millet ; another made of boyled raisins and honey mixt ; another of water and honey , and with eggs macerated in them ; besides a syrup made of preserved grapes . But which is most peculiar to them , is the use of crude Opium , which they swallow whole in little pills without any the least mastication . The stomack performing its vital function in the opening and dissolving this concreted juice , the brain feels the violent operation of it ; the spirits are put into a rapid motion ; a vertigo seizes upon the person ; and a kind of delirium , which takes away the free and sober use of reason ; if they walk , their motion is very unsteady , like men who are drunk or mad ; and their tongues faltering , and the whole body disordered . A thousand foolish ideas of things possess their imagination ; their fancies are then most raving , as if all that time they were as happy as the Grand Signor himself . They think this the greatest pleasure of life , which they can purchase at the rate of a few aspers ; for to this purpose some vile persons take it , as they do Wine , being capable of no greater pleasure than what arises from a preternatural state of the body . Others to strengthen them in their lust ; others to deprive them of their understanding , so as to be less sensible of danger , or the impressions of hunger , or the cold air , and the other severities of Winter , and especially when at such times they are obliged to travel . This is the constant viaticum or provision of the Messengers , especially Arabians by Nation , who like our foot-posts are employed by the Ambassadors and Merchants from Constantinople to their several Factories ; there being no establisht conveyance of Letters all Turkey over , ( which is one argument of their barbarousness ) their service is very useful and necessary . They are reduced to a set company , and have a Chief over them , who dispatches them to the several parts of the Empire ; and they perform great journeys with incredible haste , unless when the ways are rendred unpassable by deep snow or great rain and inundations of waters , and are very faithful in the discharge of their trust . Dozed and intoxicated with Opium , they go on their way , and have just so much sense left as to know they are not out of it ; at first they shake off the drouziness , which the poisonous medicament brings upon them , by a continual agitation of the body ; and when they are tired and forced to rest , they are content with as little sleep as possible , not lying stretcht out to their full length , but leaning down with their backs against a wall or banke , with their knees against their belly to keep it warm ; every one knows his convenient dose according to his strength and temperament ; some will receive the quantity of a little pea , as ordinarily as they do their daily food , or rather make that serve for it ; stronger stomacks and constitutions require as much more , which one would wonder how they should concoct , but that we know , to some by a peculiarity of constitution , which nature hath given , or use introduced , occasioned by necessity or wantonness , poisons have served for aliment . How small a part of that , which custom has made so necessary to their lives , as that they cannot forbear so much as one day , would put us into our last sleep , and awaken us in another World ! This affected phrenzy has this event usually , the spirits being so often fired and put into a preternatural motion , their whole force being spent , grow dull and torpid ; their looks pale and frightful , like men distracted ; their eyes sunk in their heads ; a palsy in their hands , and all the infirmities of old age seizing upon them in the time of their manhood : so that they appear to be as so many walking ghosts . Which horrid and necessary effects of it have of late made the use of it less frequented among the more considering Turks , who are sensible their excesses and debaucheries with Wine are less dangerous and pernicious to their health . I know not how true the experiment is , but this is certain , that those who use Opium abstain most carefully , for some time at least , from drinking cold water , : which they say would cause death incurably , though without any convulsion or agonies . This is the only use of Opium with them , ignorant of correcting its noxious and stupifying qualities , and so making it fit for medicine . There is so great and universal a regard had to Mahomet's prohibition of eating Swines-flesh , that the transgressor is counted sacrilegious and void of all conscience , who dares defile his soul with it , as they firmly believe it does ; which opinion is so rooted in their minds , that they may be sooner brought to renounce any part of their Religion , than this particular institution . Those who will indulge themselves to drinke Wine , abhor the very thought of touching , much more of eating the least bit of Pork . To breed an antipathy in their children toward it , they teach them , as soon as they can speak , to call Christians by the opprobrious name of Hogs ; which hatred grows up with their years ; so that they had rather die with hunger , than meddle with such profane and cursed diet , in what strait or necessity of life soever . The very sight of a Hog puts some into a fright and trembling , which soon passes into fretting and indignation ; and woe to the poor Swine , if the Souldiers come in their way ; for they are sure to come by the worst of it , if they escape being killed with their small shot ; the steams of the dressed flesh are hated worse than any pestilential air ; and therefore if any good-natur'd Turk condescends to be entertain'd by a Christian , great care is taken that nothing may be served up of Hogs-flesh , however disguised : for this would be an affront not only to his Person , but Religion , and would fright him from the table . Which I remember hapned particularly at a worthy English Merchant's House at Galata , who prevail'd with a gentile Turk to stay and dine with him . The Cook not knowing there was such a Guest in the company , sent up a mess of Pork , which one of the servants as ignorantly put upon the table . The Turk suspecting what it was , asked the question , the thing being confessed , ( for there was no possible denying or dissembling it ) he rises from his seat in great haste as one out of his wits , looks about for water , and observing a little Cistern in one corner of the room ( as is usual ) washes his hands , mouth , and nostrils , as if all had been polluted , and left us immediately in great disdain , though fully satisfied it was a mistake , and no way out of design . The Greeks who live in Villages apart from Turks , breed up these creatures not so much for their own use , as to sell them to the We , stern Christians , and to Masters of Ships for their Sea-provision ; a priviledg which they are forced to buy with their Money . But to do this with greater security , the Druggermans are forced to procure a warrant from the Caimacam every year at the beginning of Winter ; and then the Swineherd must remain in the fields , in some by-place out of the road , till the dusk of the evening ; at which time the Turks , not used to stay out late , retire to their houses ; there being as great silence at an hour and an half in the night as at midnight . This great care must be taken to prevent and take off all occasion of scandal , offence , and tumult , which would necessarily arise , if they were brought into Constantinople as it were in triumph by day-light ; and would be sadly misconstrued , as an evil Omen of the downfal of their Empire by the Christians . They are at present strangers to luxury and high feeding ; the Kitchen-arts have not as yet got among them ; no poignant sauces to provoke the appetite , besides popper and garlick to heat their stomacks ; no curiosity of diet , little decency in their entertainments : They understand not the use of knife and fork , tearing the flesh asunder with their fingers ; a wooden spoon being the chief furniture of their table . There are some dishes peculiar to the great mens tables , which an European stomack , though not nice and curious , would reject ; fish and soul , though they have in abundance , they do not much affect . They cut the flesh they roast into little mammocks , and put them upon wooden spits . The common food of the Levant from Constantinople to the walls of China and beyond , is Rice ; which they disguise with several colours with saffron and several sorts of seeds and juices which yields hearty nourishment . The usual time of dinner is about nine of the clock in the morning ; they sit close and round a copper vessel , placed upon a stool a foot and half high from the ground , which contains their plates and dishes either of tin or earth ; ( for the Emperor does not use silver ) and eat their meat in great haste , as if they strove who should eat most , or have done first . This Paragraph of their diet I should altogether have omitted , as of too poor and mean a consideration , if it did not conduce somewhat to the better understanding their manners and tempers . Their Weddings are celebrated with great noise and tumult ; the Bride muffled up and covered with a red veil is brought home on horseback riding astride , attended by her relations and friends , and Musick playing before , and the boys running up and down and making a confused noise . This is the first day of their coming together ; the whole business of the contract and marriage being managed in their absence by the friends of each party . But forasmuch as the Mahometan law permits the man to put away his wife upon every slight occasion , that they may not leave their Daughters wholly at the mercy of their Husbands , whose humours are so fickle and inconstant , but prevent such an accident , at least to provide better against it , a Writing is signed before the Cadi , whereby they oblige themselves to make such daily allowance to their Wives , in case they are weary of them and turn them off : which allowance is exacted as a just debt and always payable . The paper of contract being ratified , the Proxies of both parties go to the Parish Priest , who is invited to the Nuptial entertainment , who there bestows his blessing on the married couple ; and then begins the mad mirth , which lasts for three entire days and nights together . They are confined to the number of four Wives , who have some little command over the women Slaves , though otherwise not much better treated ; for their condition is servile , being shut up in their houses as so many prisons , scarce permitted to go abroad without a keeper ; barr'd from all outward conversation ; their Brothers grown up to be men , denied access to them , or else but twice or thrice in a year , and then in the presence of their jealous Husbands : forced thus to live an idle and melancholick kind of life at home , their chiefest diversion is to bath often , or to stand at their lattice-window to observe the passengers ; but the good Housewives , who are almost dead with this idle and dull kind of life , deceive the slow hours by embroidering Handkerchiefs and Quilts . Their chiefest care is how to please their Husbands , in whose favour they place their happiness ; it being in their power to retain them , or put them away ; so that their observance and love spring wholly from a principle of fear . Examples of which severity are frequent ; after the first or second divorce a reconciliation is allowed ; but if their fury and inconstant humour carry them on farther , then they lye under an interdict . It is a sin , and no less than that of Adultery , to reassume them , unless after anothers embraces ; this punishment of folly is establisht by law , and is horribly disgraceful ; a greater curse or infamy than which , Bayazid the first thought he could not wish upon himself , when he was challenged by Tamerlan to fight , if he did not meet him and joyn battel upon a certain day . The Jews practice the same liberty of divorcing themselves from their Wives , allowed by Moses for the hardness of their hearts . A certain Jew had bebauched a Jewess , Wife to another of his own Religion ; which being known , the man was excommunicated , and turned out of the Synagogue , and the woman lockt up and deprived of her liberty . But they were resolved to keep company together , and by mutual consent turn Turks , to the great forrow and regret of the Husband , from whom she was violently forced away . At last being convinced of her sin , and her Jew-Turk-Gallant weary of her , she is willing to return to her first Husband ; but this was inconsistent , she being an Apostate , with the law of Moses , and with the law of Mahomet , which forbids any Turkish woman to marry either Christian or Jew . The man is mad for his Wife , and to put himself into a condition to receive her , he turns Turk , and marries her , the other having given her a Bill of Divorce . After some time they both go to Salonichi , where is the greatest concourse of Jews in the Empire ; next to Constantinople and Cair , and turn Jews again , hoping in such a multitude to pass undiscovered . The women may sue for a Divorce from their Husbands , when they are not maintained according to the law , and according to contract , and when they suffer an injury too great to be endured ; which if they obtain , they only carry away their Clothes and Dowry , and lose all future allowances , and take the Girls with them ; but these cases are rare , and very feldom happen . They are very kind and assisting to their sick friends , accounting it a matter of piety and religion : the frequency of visits renders them troublesome , every one bringing fruits or medicines , which they judg proper in the case . This care and kindness continue as long as there is hope of life ; but when that is past , and the pangs of death seize upon the person , the Priest or any other whispers several times in his ear , and puts him in mind of that usual form , of the profession of Mahometism , that there is no God but God , and that Mahomet is his Prophet . They are much concerned for them in their agonies , and express it by their looks and by their moan ; but when once they are dead , their mourning and trouble are at an end ; they cease from all complaints , and scarce a sigh to be hard , looking upon this , as a finding fault with the decree of God Almighty and a resisting his will. The dead body is perfumed with Frankincense , carefully washed with clean soap and warm water , and sowed up in linnen : unless towards the head and feet , ( which are left free , that the person may stand on his legs , and shew himself in the grave , when he gives an account of his faith to the Examining Angels ) and not kept long above ground . They have not the art of embalming . Their Funerals are solemnized without Obsequies ; no shew , or pomp , or expence in the least ; they do all in the day-time , and usually in the morning ; deriding the Greeks , who at such times carry lighted Tapers and Torches , and the Priests their Censers , and hire women to cut and tear their hair , and is a necessary part of the solemnity . The Priest usually goes before the corps mumbling out somewhat , who says peculiar prayers for the soul of the dead person at his grave ; nigh which he stands alone by himself , the rest about twenty foot distant , and there reads some short Chapters of the Alcoran . Then he gravely admonishes him about the fundamentals of his Religion , that the Angel Inquisitor may not surprize him , and find him unprepared with sutable answers ; and that he boldly confess that God is the Creator , and Mahomet his Messenger , and that he used in his prayers to turn his face towards Mecca , and the like ; which ceremony being finish'd , they lay the body in the ground , and wish the man a good success in his examination . Their care and respect is not confined to the grave ; for they bestow Money to the poor to pray for their souls , which they believe find ease and benefit by their suffrages , and often go themselves to their graves , out of love and respect to their memory . Some Emperors and great men have left lands for these very purposes , that these religious offices may never be omitted . Their women are not permitted to be present at a Funeral ; only the last day of Ramazan , as I said before , they are allowed to go to the publick burying places . These burying-places are without the City , and usually nigh the high-way ; somewhat perchance for pomp and more for use , to put passengers in mind that they must dye also , and serve for examples to others : Their graves are somewhat hollow , that they may the better rise and sit before the Angels , planks being laid athwart to keep the sand and dust , that cover them , from falling upon them . At the extremities are erected two broken pieces of pillars ( which formerly belong'd to Christian Churches ) or great stones , some of which are between four and five yards high , as I found by measure in the burying-place of Galata . They avoid doing any possible injury to the dead ; their bones lye quiet and undisturbed ; they do not dig up a grave a second time ; every one has his grave apart ; no mixture of ashes or bones , which are as safely preserved as if they were in distinct urnes and peculiar vaults and repositories : The sepulchral monuments of the great men are made of free-stone , well cut and smoothed , in the fashion of a chest , whose cover is taken off , with a stone-step running round and jetting out . Both sides are adorned with gilt circles , and one at each end , the intermedial spaces being filled up with flowers , very handsomely wrought ; for here as in their cielings they shew their skill of engraving and painting . Statuary and drawing a mans face they do not pretend to in the least ; this being altogether unlawful ; which makes them so brutishly fierce against all humane figures , whether wrought by the chezil or pencil . In either of the extremes is placed a pillar , which rising from a square , ends in a cone ; on the tip of which is plac'd a turbant , or a cap , such as the women wear , to distinguish whose the monument is . These monuments are in the open air . The Emperors and great men lie buried in Cities , in covered Chappels , which they have purchased & built for this very purpose . An Oath is of great force with them in deciding pecuniary and capital causes ; they lay their hands upon the Alcoran and call God to witness to the truth of what they shall attest , which they kiss and then put to their forehead , having first washed their hands ; for no unclean person must dare to touch it , as they are warned by the inscription , that is always on the outside cover of the book . If any Christian or Jew are to give in witness upon Oath , they adjure them to tell the truth of what they know , making them also lay their hands upon the holy Gospels or books of Moses . An English Gentleman being cited before a Cady as a witness of a bargain , readily appeared , and was very willing to take his Oath , as he could do most conscientiously and religiously ; but they wanted a book to swear him , which put a sudden stop to the contestation and trial ; after much search among the neighbouring Christians , they brought in an old Latin book , which they took for the Gospels ; He quickly perceiving what it was , began to refuse , till his Interpreter , from whom I received this account , told him , that such a scrupulosity would spoil the cause , and make the Turks suspect the truth of his testimony ; that it was brought there instead of the book of the Gospels , and that it was believed by them so to be ; and that it was the same thing in effect , as if the original hand-writing of the Evangelists were put into his hands ; wrought upon by these arguments , he took his Oath accordingly . Some of them will swear horribly in their private discourse ; sometimes out of design to gain belief , and sometimes in their passion ; and the forms are very odd , and which are not worth being recited or known . But it is the highest unkindness in the world not to believe them , when they swear one particular Oath ; for then they are most serious , and desire to remove all possible suspicion of falshood ; which is , by the truth of the four books the thing is so or so , or I will do this or that ; meaning the law of Moses , the Psalter of David , the Gospel of Jesus , and the Alcoran of Mahomet : for they look upon the three first also as sacred , and reverence their authority . They acknowledg Moses and David and our blessed Saviour Christ to be great Prophets , and do not speak of them without a preface of respect and honour ; following herein the example of Mahomet himself , who has left them abundant witness in his Alcoran of the most holy life and stupendious miracles of Christ . To whose holy name the better sort shew so great a reverence , that if any cursed Jew go about to blaspheme it , they will be sure to revenge the affront : as it hapned not long since at Gallipoli , a maritime City of Thrace upon the Propontis , where a Jew , quarrelling with an English-man , broke out into most scurrilous language against our Saviour ; but the Turks , who were present , were so concerned at the blasphemy , that they carried the wretch to the Justice , who hearing of the evidence , without delay commanded him to be severely drubbed before him , to teach him more respect and duty to the name of so holy and great a Prophet . A Survey of the Seven Churches of Asia , as they now lye in their ruines . THE curious surveys every where extant of Bethlehem , Nazareth , and Jerusalem , places so famous for the birth , education , and sufferings of our Blessed Saviour , ( which are owing to the industry and learning and curiosity of devout Pilgrims , who from the first ages of Christianity to this present , not without the design of providence , as I verily believe , have visited mount Calvary and the holy Sepulchre ) suffer us not to be unacquainted with their situation and state : every one , who has but the least gust for Antiquity , or History , or Travel , or insight into Books , greedily catching at such relations . But a sadder fate seemed to hang over the Seven Churches of Asia , founded by the Apostles , and to which the eternal Son of God vouchsafed to send those Epistles recorded in the book of the Revelation of St. John , which by the unpardonable carelesness of the Greeks , ( unless that horrid stupidity , into which their slavery has cast them , may plead some excuse herein ) have lain so long neglected ; they giving us no account of their ruines , and the Western Christians either not caring or not daring to visit them . The English Gentlemen who live in Smyrna , out of a pious zeal and a justly commendable curiosity , some few years since were the first who made a voyage thither , to see the remainders of that magnificence , for which those Cities were so renowned in the Histories of ancient times : and their practice and example have for the most part every year since in the Autumn been taken up and followed . During my stay at Smyrna , where I arrived about the middle of February 1670. from Constantinople , in order to get a safe passage for Christendom in our Fleet of Merchants Ships , then lading at that Scale , ( the Corsairs of Algiers infesting the Mediterranean with their number and strength , and making all sailing in a single Vessel very dangerous ) I was seized with the same curiosity . But an opportunity did not so easily present it self : the waters were not then quite down , and the plains in several places scarce passable : besides , I wanted company , which is highly necessary in those Countreys both for security and convenience ; having had sad experience by my travels in other parts of Turkey of the difficulties and hazards of such voyages : and especially in a voyage I made to Prusia in Bithynia , in which I narrowly escaped having my throat cut upon mount Olympus by several Janizaries newly arrived from Candia , and travelling toward Constantinople . But our Ships not departing till July following , the love and respect I had to Antiquity , and to the memory of those Churches , once so famous , made me not only forget but despise danger : and it hapned very luckily , that three worthy English Gentlemen , Mr. Lewis , Mr. Rudings , and Mr. Jolly ( which last with one and fifty more most sadly perished by Shipwrack neer Mounts Bay in Cornwal in October 1671. ) not long after acquainted me that they had taken up the same resolution , and would risque it too . The Spring was now advanced ; and we were to set out with all convenient speed , before the heats encreased and grew excessive : and for our better safety , we hired two stout and honest Janizaries , well known to our Nation ; two Armenian Christians , a Cook , and three Grooms to look to our Horses ; in all twelve of us . Which number was but necessary ; for at that time of the year , when there is grass in the fields for their horses , the roads are infested with Robbers in strong and numerous parties , well mounted and armed , who take all advantages of assaulting passengers , and kill first , and rob afterwards : sometimes coming twenty or thirty days journey out of the mountains of Cilicia , and from Georgia , to the furthermost Provinces of the lesser Asia lying toward the Archipelago for this purpose . I cannot here conceal the extraordinary civility and courtesie of the Cady of Smyrna , then newly promoted to that Office , who hearing of our intended voyage , to oblige and gain the love of our Nation , sent one of his Servants to advise us to be well arm'd , and to have a good Guard with us ; for that he was assured there were murdrous Villains abroad on the high-ways , and that several had fallen into their hands . This advice was seasonable and most obliging : and accordingly we provided against all evil accidents as well as we could , relying chiefly upon the good providence of God , as our greatest and best security . April the third 1671. we set out from Smyrna , and went about to the Northern-side of the Bay , which runs in a good way to the North-east , riding for several hours neer the shore under the rocky mountains of Gordilen , which with the opposite mountain Mimas , there being high hills also to the East , makes the Haven so secure for Ships , which lye as it were land-lockt . Our way lay Northward , and somewhat to the West . For that we might the better observe the turnings and windings of our journey , and the bearings of places , we took a Sea-Compass with us . Leaving Menamen , which I suppose is the Temnos of the Ancients , on the right-hand , a Town well situated , and considerable for the trade of Dimity and Scamity , we rode down to the River Hermus , not far distant from it , ( having in our way a very pleasant prospect of rich plains and meadows ) where we arrived after six hours and a half . Hermus hath its rise in the greater Phrygia , and passing through Lydia and Aeolis , pours its waters into the Bay of Smyrna over against Vurlaw , ( famous for its hot waters , mentioned by Strabo under the name of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 , and much frequented by Turks and Greeks in the Summer-time ) and not far from Foggia-vecchia the Phocaea of the Ancients , where the Athenians first setled a Colony . The Channel as wide as the Thames at Windsor , and deep withal , and not being fordable thereabouts , we were ferried over it , the current being somewhat strong . We rode along the banks of it towards Chiaus-kuy , situated about a mile from it , where we made our first Conac or nights lodging , having travelled this day about eight hours . On the 4th , within three hours after our setting forth , we had a sight at some distance of the Bay of Elaea : and avoiding Guzelhisar , which from its distance and situation I take to be the old Aegae , * a Town well situated on the rising of a hill , we came to the bottom of it , and went round it , it running in considerably to the N. W. and not being able to reach Pergamus with any convenience , we ascended to a little Village , called by the Turks Clisia-kuy . Our days travel being almost ten hours ; our way lying still Northward . On the 5th . having rode through a wood for half an hour , we got into the plain of Pergamus ; a most delightful and fruitful plain ; several parts of it plowed up , the rest yielding excellent Pasturage : it extends it self to a very considerable length to the South-east ; in some places abovt five miles over . On the North-west of the plain we left the river Cetius , which hath but a very small channel , and the Caicus to the Southward of it , which we past over at a miles distance from the City on a Stone-bridg of thirteen Arches , the City lying to the North-west of it , where we arrived after four hours . The Caicus runs with a very smooth stream , the channel about half the bredth of Hermus , but very apt to overflow its low banks upon the descent of rain and the melting of the snow upon the mountains , which makes those plains to be scarce passable for some time of the year . It runs into the Bay not far from Elaea , a City of Aeolis , ( from whence it hath its denomination ) called by the Turks Ayasman , on the western-side of it , the Scale of Pergamus ; from which it may be distant about twelve or fourteen miles : this river separating Mysia from Aeolis . Pergamus the chief City of Mysia Hellespontica ( called by the Turks with a very little variation Bergamo ) is about sixty four miles from Smyrna to the North North-west of it . It lies under a very high and steep hill , by which sufficiently secured from the cold Northern blasts . On the top of it is a Castle built according to the old way of fortification , which the Turks in a manner neglect , it being without any Artillery or other provisions of War : they being altogether secure and free from the fears of having an enemy in those parts . This inscription is to be seen there on some ruines of Marble . 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . From the Castle there runs down Eastward a good part of the hill a stone-wall ; at the end of which some ruines of a fortification , that seems to have been built for the security of it that way . The ancient Stone-buildings , now the ordinary dwelling houses of the Turks , still continue in several streets ; the City by this means retaining somewhat of its former glory , amidst those many and vast ruines that lye about it , contrary to the fate of other Churches ; most of whose ancient structures are wholly ruined , and pitiful Turkish houses built of earth baked in the Sun , and beggerly Cottages raised upon their foundations . We went first to see the ruines of a Palace , ( as it is judged to be ) which lye in a street to the East part of the City ; where we found five Pillars of polished Marble , of about seven yards in length , the Chapiters curiously wrought , in a line equally distant : and further on , there being a larger space between , two other Pillars ; all which serve now only as so many props to support a wall that is built close to them . They are confronted on the other side of the street with other Pillars of the same make , but whose Chapiters are broken , two lying along upon the ground . More Eastward toward the plain lye very famous ruines of a Church dedicated to St. John , built of brick ; about fifty six paces in length , and in bredth thirty two ; the walls of a very great heigth , two rows of windows on each side . Several Pillars fixt within the body of the Church , but broken of , and wanting much of their due height : the Turks not willing to be at any pains to clear the earth where they are fixt , and the broken pieces serving their purpose as well ; which is to place them at the extremities of their graves : abundance of which we found in their burying-places in our travels where ever we came . Under the East end , a large Vault . On each side of the Church is a round building , the one exactly agreeing with the other . The doors very high ; opposite to which is a great Nicchio or cavity in the wall ; a Vault underneath sustained by a great Pillar ; the foundation strengthened by several arches and pillars ; it is eighteen of my paces in diameter within ; the walls very thick . In the upper part of the City is the Rivolet Selinus , whose stream is very swift , running toward the South South-east into the Caicus ; over which are built several Stone-bridges ; some with two , some with three arches . By the stream not far from the great Church , part of a wall is yet standing of about ninety paces . On the other side of Selinus is a very handsome and large Church , formerly called Sancta Sophia , into which you ascend by several stone-stairs ; now polluted by the Turks , and made a Mosch . We observed a passage under ground from the Castle to the Selinus , by which they supplyed themselves with water . Along the side of a hill from the South-west are the remainders of an Aqueduct . On a hill to the west of the City we met with several vast ruines with six great arches over a water , which seems to have been formerly a common-shore ; and South of this another range of six arches more , with two large rooms . The former of these ruines the Turks call Kiz-serai or the Womens Seraglio ; telling us , that anciently they were kept there , accommodating according to their rude conception of things , who have not the least knowledg of Antiquity , the customs of former ages to the practice of their Emperor at Constantinople , and fancying them to have been the very same . More Southward is another great ruined building with arches , situated pleasantly upon a hill ; from whence we had a good prospect of the City and the neighbouring Plain ; hard by which is a Theatre , that opens to the South , the marks of the steps still remaining . In the declivity of which almost at the bottom is a Marble-stone about seven spans in length and two in bredth , with this inscription , 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . On the opposite side a Marble statue about two or three foot in the rubbish , which we caused to be removed by a poor Christian ; this being the only way to preserve it ; the Turks being such profest enemies to all humane figures , whether painted , or in Mosaick , or wrought in Brass or Marble , that it would quickly be defaced and broken , if it appeared above ground . As we walk'd in the streets , we observed several Vaults almost every-where . We went to see several ruines about a quarter of a mile out of Town , to the S. W. which seem to have been a fortification ; under which are several Vaults that open one into another , which serve not only for the foundation of the building , but might also very conveniently be made use of for a granary to lay their stores in , though now only a receptacle of cattel . To the South much about the same distance are two mounts opposite one to the other , raised artificially to command the passage , and secure the Avenues that way ; in the mid way lies the road : and the like toward the East . The state of the Christians here is very sad and deplorable , there being not above fifteen families of them : their chief employment is gardening , by which they make a shift to get a little money to pay their harache , and satisfy the demands of their cruel and greedy oppressors , and maintain a sad miserable life . They have one Church dedicated to St. Theodore ; the Bishop of Smyrna , under whose jurisdiction they are , taking care to send a Priest to officiate among them . In the Bagno we found an excellent jarr of marble , not unlike a font ; about five or six foot from the pavement , very neer seven yards in compass , with figures of horsemen in relievo round about it , but broken somewhat at top : neer which is a curious marble-basin about two or three foot higher than it . In the yard adjoyning we found this inscription upon a stone-pillar sunk in the ground . MA. AEMILIO . AVR. PVB. PROCVLO PRAEF . FABR. MA. LEPIDI . AVG. PROCVR . SACRVM . On it is engraven a Bulls head . On a stone very high upon the wall is the figure of a dog , with these two verses under it . 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . Having satisfied our selves with the view of Pergamus , on Thursday the 6th . about Sun-rise we set forward in our journey toward Thyatira , our way lying almost due East , repassing the Cetius and Caicus ; which last we forded at about two miles distance from the City . After four hours we came to a river , whose channel was somewhat broad and banks very high , which we left on our left-hand ; perchance the river Hyllus . After seven hours we arrived at Soma , a very large Town , situated under a high hill , and from thence passed in three hours to Kirk-agach , or the Town of forty trees , placed under a hill also ; the plain lying to the North of it : and so to Bak-hair , a Village so called from the pleasantness of its situation ; those words signifying a fair prospect ; where we took up our lodging after eleven hours travel . On the 7th . from Bakhair after four hours we came to a Village called Mader-kuy , seated on a little hill , under which runs a little river , which loseth its waters in the Hermus . In the plain before it we saw several pillars ( about forty or fifty ) some fixt in the ground , and others lying upon the grass , no other ruines being near . From this Village to Thyatira in one hour . Thyatira ( called by the Turks Akhisar or the white Castle ) a City of Lydia , is distant from Pergamus about forty eight miles ; almost South-east , situated in a spacious plain about two miles and an half in compass . Very few of the ancient buildings remain here ; one we saw , which seems to have been a market-place , having six pillars sunk very low in the ground , about four spans only left above . We could not find any ruines of Churches ; and enquiring of the Turks about it , they told us there were several great buildings of stone under ground , which we were very apt to believe from what we had observed in other places , where digging somewhat deep , they met with strong foundations , that without all question have formerly supported great buildings ; but the descriptions of the Ancients and the several inscriptions that we found there put it out of doubt , that this is the true Thyatira : though the Greeks , who are prodigiously ignorant of their own Antiquities , take Tyreh , a Town twenty five miles to the South-east of Ephesus , to be the place , being deceived by the neerness of the sound the one has with the other ; upon the same weak pretence , as they have mistaken hitherto Laotik , a Town not far from Ancyra ( Angury the Turks call it ) in Galatia , for Laodicea ; when we have most authentick proofs that it is placed neer to the river Lycus , and not far from Hierapolis . On the pedestal of a pillar in the middle of a market-place covered , we found this inscription engraven in very fair characters . 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . On the side of a large stone-coffin in form of a chest , the cover taken off , in the middle of a Court of a Seraglio , is the following inscription of six very long lines , the letters engraven small , and very close ; where there is mention made twice of the City of the Thyatirenians . 1. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 2. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 3. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 ▪ 4. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 5. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 6. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . On another such sepulchral-stone now made use of by a Tanner , in his house might be read these words . 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . We found several other inscriptions , some of which I took , not being able to take all for want of time and convenience ; the Turks in great companies , both men and boys , pressing upon me ; ( several stones being placed upon the walls reversed by these great enemies of Learning and Antiquity ) who wondred at us , and thought us little less than mad for coming from so far as Smyrna to look upon a few old stones , which they make no other use of than to put into the walls of their houses , breaking them off in the mid'st oftentimes , as they have occasion . I find by several inscriptions , that the inhabitants of this City , as well as those of Ephesus , were in the times of heathenism great votaries and worshippers of the goddess Diana . In the corner of a street neer a fountain upon a broken stone put into a wall : 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . To Diana goddess of the mountains : and in the burying-place of the Turks ( who always bury their dead out of Town , and neer the high-way , except their Emperors and their relations , or some great men , as Bassas or others , who have merited well by their services of the Empire , who have the priviledg to be interred in Cities , as Constantinople , Adrianople , or Prusia , neer the Moschs , or chanes in their own ground , which they had purchased ) to the North-west of the City , where there are a great many stately pillars , which were designed to another use , is a very fair stone erected to the honour of one of her Priestesses Vlpia Marcella by the Senate and People . 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . Upon a Tomb-stone in the said burying-place 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 We saw several old pillars with inscriptions in a Chane ; but the letters were so effaced and broken , that they could not be well read . In a back yard belonging to a Tanner . 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . With these four Latin verses under . VOTA SUPERVACUA FLETUSQUE ET NUMINA DIVUM NATURAE LEGES FATORUMQUE ARCUIT ORDO SPREVISTI PATREM MATREMQUE MISERRIME NATE ELYSIOS CAMPOS HABITANS ET PRATA VEATUM In a back lane not far from the corner to the North-east of the Basar . 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . This City has a very great convenience of water , which streams in every street , flowing from a neighbouring hill to the Eastward of it about a mile off ; there being above three thousand five hundred pipes , if the Turks may be credited , to conveigh it to every part of it . It is populous , inhabited most by Turks , who have eight Moschs here , few Christians residing among them ; those Armenians we found there being strangers , who came thither to sell shashes , handkerchiefs , &c. which they bring out of Persia . They are maintained chiefly by the trade of Cotton-wool , which they send to Smyrna , for which commodity Thyatira is very considerable . On the 8th we left Thyatira , and about a mile from the City in the plains , we found a stone-coffin that had this inscription . 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . As in the City we found several stones that had the name of Antoninus engraven on them . Within two hours we past a small river , which crost the plain from East to West ; and a mile off another stream , which we supposed might arise from the same spring , and be divided from it . After two hours more we arrived at a Village called Selinte-kuy , where were to be seen several excellent pieces of polished marble up and down , and some few ruines , which assure us sufficiently , though we had but just time to look into it , that it is not originally a Turkish Village , but was once inhabited by Christians , especially considering the situation of it within a mile of a river , I suppose the Cryon , or rather the Halys , so fatal to Croesus formerly King of this Province ; whose stream we found very swift , according to the ancient account given of it , passing thence into Hermus . About six or seven miles beyond is the Lacus Gygaeus or Colous , of about five miles in length from East to West , which we viewed upon the banks of it ; after we had ascended the hill that leads to Marmora , ( probably the Exusta of the ancients , so famous formerly for the sepulchre of Halyattes the Father of Croesus : admirably well situated , a spacious and fruitful plain lying under it ) still a very handsome Town with several Moschs in it , one fairer than the rest , with a Tekeh or Monastery belonging to it . Hence we came into the plains of Magnesia , where the famous battel was sought between Antiochus and Scipio , victory after many turns and traverses , uncertain to which side to encline , ( the dispute being a long while maintained with equal fierceness , prudence , and valour ) at last falling to the latter , who hereupon had conferred upon him by the Souldiery first , and after by the Senate , the glorious title of Asiaticus ; which title he justly merited : the victory being of so great a consequence , that several of the Asian Provinces , terrified with this success of theirs , immediately yielded , and became an accession to Rome's greatness . Leaving at some distance mount Mastusia and mount Sipylus , upon the rising of which stands Magnesia , a Bashalick , though of late years governed by a Moselim or Deputy , which separates Ionia from Lydia to the East , we crost the plain toward mount Tmolus , called by the Turks Boz-Dag or the icy mountain . In our way we repast the Hermus over a large stone-bridg , that seems to have been built of late years , and after two hours and a half passing through a Village called Jarosh-kuy , that lies about two miles on this side , we arrived at Sardes , having been eleven hours on horseback : our way all along from Thyatira lying almost due South . Sardes ( retaining somewhat of its name still , though nothing of its ancient glory , being called by the Turks Sart ) is situated at the foot of the famous mountain Tmolus on the North side of it , having a spacious and delightful plain before it , watered with several streams that flow from the neighbouring hill to the South-east , and with the Pactolus , arising from the same , on the East , and encreasing with its waters the stream of Hermus , into which it runs ; now a very pitiful and beggerly Village , the houses few and mean ; but for the accommodation of travellers , it being the road for the Caravans that come out of Persia to Smyrna with silk , there is a large Chane built in it , as is usual in most Towns that are neer such publick roads , or have any thing of trade ; where we took up our quarters , the Turks refusing to admit us into their houses and lodg us , hearing from our Janizaries , that we were Franks . The inhabitants are for the most part Shepherds , who look to those numerous flocks and herds which feed in the plains . To the southward of the Town at the bottom of a little hill , the Castle lying eastward of them , are very considerable ruines still remaining , which quickly put us in mind of what Sardes was , before earthquakes and war had caused those horrid desolations there ; there being six pillars standing of about seven yards in compass ; and about ten in heigth ; besides several vast stones , of which the other pillars that are thrown down were made , one placed upon the other , and so exactly closed in those that stand , as if they were one entire piece , now lying by in a confused heap ; the first row of pillars supporting huge massy stones that lye upon them . From hence we went up to the Castle which lies eastward ; the ascent very steep , in some places almost perpendicular ; so that we were forced to take a great compass about to gain the top of the hill , whereon it stands ; easy enough to be undermined , having no rock to support it ; but what might be as well impregnable for its strength , as inaccessible for its heigth in former ages , which knew nothing of the prodigious effects of the mixture of brimstone and salt-peter ; and when they made use of no other artillery than cross-bows and slings . The wall still remain with several arched rooms , though somewhat narrow . Hard by the entrance on the left-hand there is this inscription . 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Within the Castle we found this inscription upon the Chapiter of a pillar . 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 By which it appears that it was erected in honour of Tiberius the Emperor , whom Sardes ought to acknowledg as a second Founder ; he having taken care to repair the breaches caused by an earthquake , and having given it the form of a City again , as Strabo has recorded . Easterly of the Castle lie the ruins of a great Church ; and North of them other vast ruins , the walls still remaining of a very considerable length , with several divisions & apartments ; all which take up a great compass of ground : whether it was the chief Seat of the Governour , or the publick Court of Justice , or the place where the Citizens used to convene at this distance of time and in so great a confusion wherein it is involved , is difficult to conjecture : but whatever it was when it stood , it must needs have been very stately and glorious . We met with other ruines all along this tract , which made us quickly conclude , that the greatest part of the City lay this way . The Turks have a Mosch , which was formerly a Christian Church ; at the entrance of which are several curious pillars of polished marble . Some few Christians there are who live among them , working in gardens and doing such like drudgery ; but who have neither Church nor Priest to assist them and administer the holy Sacraments to them : into such a sad and miserable condition is this once glorious City & Church of Sardes , the Metropolis of Lydia , now reduced . On the 10th we set out from Sardes , and in our way past over several streams running down from Tmolus , which enrich the pleasant plains we rode through . After six hours we found in a burial-place of the Turks full of pieces of pillars and marble-stones ( among several others , but what were scarce legible , and required more time to transcribe than we could conveniently bestow ) this that follows . 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 ▪ ...... ..... Three hours after we arrived at Philadelphia . Philadelphia distant from Sardes to the South-east about twenty seven miles , is situated upon the rising of mount Tmolus ; the streets to a good heigth lying one above another , which gives it a very advantageous prospect from most parts into the plain both toward the North and East . It is called by the Turks Alah shahr or the fair City ; which must be understood only in reference to the situation ; for there is nothing of building in it to make it deserve that name . A City formerly of as great strength as beauty , having had three strong walls toward the plain ; a great part of the inmost wall yet standing , though decayed and broken down in several places , with several bastions upon it . Defended by them , but more by the valour of the inhabitants , it maintained its liberty , and held out against Vr-chan and Morat the first , when all the lesser Asia besides had been over-run by the Ottoman forces ; but at last in the reign of Bayazid the first , whom the Turks call Yilderim or Lightning , after a long distance the Philadelphians having made several sallies , but all in vain , to remove and raise the siege , it was forced to submit to the fate of other Cities , and became a prey to the barbarous Conqueror , who was not wanting in cruelty to express his revenge and furious rage against the distressed Citizens for daring to withstand so long his victorious arms : there being about a mile and a half out of Town to the South , a thick wall of mens bones consusedly cemented together with the stones ; in all probability raised by his command : ( for sure none but such a Barbarian would have done it ) in complyance perchance with some rash vow that he had made , when he lay fretting and storming before it . The Churches felt the terrible effects of his fury as well as the inhabitants ; most of them being demolished and turned into dunghills ; as it that of St. Johns to the South-east , most probably the Cathedral for its largeness , where they throw their rubbish and filth , and the rest made Moschs . Southward is the river Cogamus flowing from the hill ; abundance of Vineyards all along , which the poor Greeks used to cultivate , but were at that time deterred from making Wine , by reason of the severe prohibition of the Grand Signor ; so that here , as a Greek Pappas told us , they had scarce wine enough for the Sacrament . The City is very populous , there being above five hundred Janizaries in it , who according to their priviledges ( the government being so much in their favour ) can be judged only by their Serdar or Captain ; the Cady or Civil Governour having no power over them in the least . Next to Smyrna , Philadelphia has the greatest number of Christians above the other Metropolitical Seats , there being above two hundred houses of them there , and four Churches ; whereof the chief is dedicated to 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 , or to the holy Virgin St. Mary , the other three to St. George , ( a great Saint among them ) St. Theodore , and St. Taxiarches . We found several stones here with inscriptions , but what were either turned up-side down and so clapt into walls , or else horribly defaced and broken . These six verses found entire upon a monumental stone in a Church-yard of the Greeks . 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 On the 12th , after three hours riding from Philadelphia , we past over the river Cogamus , whose channel was narrow , but stream deep and full ; and leaving the plains some hours after , we climbed up the Tmolus , which we found in some places very sleep and rocky ; on each side covered with vast numbers of Pine and Firr-trees : and having gain'd the top , we entred into a wood very dangerous to passengers , there being that shelter for thieves in it , and that advantage they have , keeping together upon the hills , between which the road lies , to pour down their shot upon them , and after three hours past out of it , and getting on the other side of the mountain , we came at last to a Village called Koshyenigeh-kuy , where we lodged that night , having travelled twelve hours compleat . On the 13th , about a quarter of a mile hence , we went to see several ruines , which in all probability , by their distance from Hierapolis , must be those of Tripolis ; of which nothing left but huge massy stones lying confusedly in heaps , and the appearance of a Castle and Theatre ; neer to which we forded the Maeander , and about four hours after we came to Hierapolis . Hierapolis ( now called by the Turks Pambuck-Kulasi or the Cotton Tower , by reason of the white cliffs lying thereabouts ) a City of the greater Phrygia , lies under a high hill to the North , having to the Southward of it a fair and large plain about five miles over , almost directly opposite to Laodicea , the river Lycus running between , but neerer the latter ; now utterly forsaken and desolate , but whose ruines are so glorious and magnificent , that they will strike one with horror at the first view of them , and with admiration too ; such walls , and arches , and pillars of so vast a heigth , and so curiously wrought , being still to be found there , that one may well judge , that when it stood , it was one of the most glorious Cities not only of the East , but of the World. The numerousness of the Temples there erected in the times of idolatry with so much art and cost , might sufficiently confirm the title of the holy City ▪ which it had at first , derived from the hot waters flowing from several springs , to which they ascribed a divine healing virtue , and which made the City so famous ; and for this cause Apollo , whom both Greeks and Romans adored as the God of Medicine , had his Votaries and Altars here , and was very probably their chiefest Deity . In the Theatre , which is of a large compass and heigth from the top , there being above forty stone-seats , we found upon a curious piece of wrought marble belonging to a portal these words 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 To Apollo the chief President , a title peculiar to him . Where these springs arise , is a very large Bath curiously paved with white marble , about which formerly stood several pillars now thrown into it . Hence the waters make their way through several channels which they have formed for themselves ; oftentimes overflowing them , and which cursting the ground thereabouts , which is a whitish sort of earth , turns the superficial parts into a Tophus . Several Tombs still remain ; some of them almost entire , very stately and glorious , as if it had been accounted a kind of sacrilege to injure the dead ; and upon that account they had abstained from defacing their monuments ; entire stones of a great length and heigth , some covered with stones shaped into the form of a Cube , others ridge-wise . Some inscriptions we took , which here follow : the shortness of the time we staid there , and great danger we were in , not permitting us to take more . 1 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 2 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 3 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . 4 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . Three hours and a half after we forded the Lycus ; and having ascended a very high hill , after an hours riding through a very pleasant plain overspread with Olive-trees and Fig-trees , we came to a poor Turkish Village , where we lodged . On the 14th in the morning , we set forward for Colosse , where within an hour and a half we arrived Colosse , by the Turks called Chonos , is situated very high upon a hill , the plains under it very pleasant ; but we were no sooner entred into it , but we thought fit to leave it ; the inhabitants being a vile sort of people ; so that we doubted of our safety among them . There still remain some poor Christians , notwithstanding those horrid abuses they are forced to endure : but without any Church or Priest : poor miserable Greeks , who amidst that ignorance and oppression they labour under , retain the profession of Christianity still , though they have forgot their own language , and speak only Turkish . Hastily quitting the Town , not long after we met the Vaivod of Dingilsley , a very large and handsome Turkish Town about four miles to the South from Laodicea , with about three hundred horse in pursuit of a famous robber called Inge Morad , who with a party of two and twenty horse had alarmed the whole Countrey . Our way lay almost West to Laodicea , where we arrived after six hours and a half , and passing down the hill , lodged at the bottom of it to the North of the ruines in a poor Village called Congeleh . Laodicea ( called by the Turks Eski Hisar or the old Castle ) a City of Lydia according to the Geography of the ancients , is above twenty miles distant from Colosse , situated upon six or seven hills , taking up a vast compass of ground . To the North and North-east of it runs the river Lycus at about a mile and a half distance : but more neerly watered by two little rivers , Asopus and Caper ; whereof the one is to the West , the other to the South-east ; both which pass into the Lycus , and that into the Maeander . It is now utterly desolated , and without any inhabitant ; except Wolves , and Jackals , and Foxes : but the ruines shew sufficiently what it has been formerly : the three Theaters and the Circus adding much to the stateliness of it , and arguing its greatness . That whose entrance is to the Northeast is very large , and might contain between twenty and thirty thousand men , having above fifty steps which are about a yard broad , and a foot and a quarter in heigth one from another , the plain at the bottom being about thirty yards over . A second that opens to the West ; and a third , a small one , whose entrance is to the South : the Circus was about two and twenty steps , which remain firm and entire , and is above three hundred and forty paces in length from one end to the other , the entrance to the East . At the opposite extremity is a Cave that has a very handsome arch , upon which we found this inscription . 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . To the South-east are the ruines of a fortification ; not far an Aqueduct , the channel of which is cut through massy stones : formerly there were two rows of pillars from South-east to the North-west , the bases only remaining , continued on a great way , and other rows from North-east to South-west , which probably might bound the walk leading to some Palace . The walls of a very large Church still remain ; to the West-side of which are adjoyning three very curious arches . More to the Southward two rows of arches , five on each side . On the Chapiter of a pillar I found these verses engraven . 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . Upon a piece of white marble . 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 On the 16th we left the Village an hour after Sun-set , the Moon favouring us ; and after six hours and a half , at the bottom of a small hill , but not far distant from a very high one we saw a boyling Fountain , whose waters were extraordinary hot and scalding ; it sent forth a very thick vapour like the smoke of charcoal , which diffused it self over the plain . About half a mile thence we crost again the Maeander over a very rotten and dangerous woodenbridg , a fair and large bridg of stone somewhat above it being so broken in the midst , that there is no passing over it , and so entred upon the pleasant and fruitful plains of Apamea , watered by the Maeander , whose various windings and turnings we observed with great pleasure and satisfaction : riding all along its banks for several hours . After almost seventeen hours riding we arrived at Nozli . On the 18th , after we had rode three hours from Nozli we came to a Village called Teke-kuy , very pleasantly situated , and about a quarter of a mile thence on the right-hand went to see several great ruines that lye on the North upon a hill ; between which and the opposite great hill is a very lovely plain . We made up to the ruines of the Castle , and a great Aqueduct : other vast ruines lying dispersed up and down for a great way : these ruines are called by the Turks Sultan Hisar or the Sultan's Castle ; and can be no other than those of Tralles , formerly the seat of a Bishop , and a famous City in the first beginnings of Christianity : situated about three quarters of a mile from the Maeander . Having travelled eight hours this day , we came to Guzel-Hisar , where we took up our lodging in a Chane . Guzel-hisar or the fair Castle , a very great and well built Town , walled , and having very handsome gates , with several Moschs . We found in it several pillars and ancient buildings , which made us conclude from its distance from Tralles , that it is Magnesia ad Maeandrum , formerly the seat of a Bishop , to distinguish it from another City of that name in the same Province , upon mount Sipylus . It is now maintained by the trade of Cotton yarn , which they send to Smyrna , caravans going weekly hence . On the 19th , from Guzel-Hisar to Gherme-aule we made it six hours ; our way lying North-west . On the 20th , our way lay hence West by North , till we came to descend the hill , upon the top of which we had seen the Island Samos to the North-west ; at the bottom is a very large Aqueduct with three great arches below , and five above to convey the water from one side of the hill to the other , and so to Ephesus , where we arrived after six hours . Ephesus called by the Turks Ayasaluk , formerly the chief Metropolis of the Lydian Asia , and the seat of the Roman Proconsul , ( who had the government of these parts ) as being the principal City subject to his jurisdiction , was not then so famous in its flourishing and glory , as it is dismal and despicable at present ; being reduced to an inconsiderable number of poor cottages , wholly inhabited by Turks ; distant from Smyrna to the South-east about forty six miles . It lies to the South of the river Caystrus in a plain ( abounding with Tamarisk , growing to such an heigth as to hide a man on horse-back ) under two hills ; the one to the South-east , which runs out but a little way ; the other , which is very high , to the South ; under which lay the most considerable parts of the City : between which is a plain of about a quarter of a mile in bredth : upon the sides of both are very great ruines , the walls and some arches remaining : upon the latter are the ruines of a wall , which seemed to have bounded the City that way with several caves upon the declivity of it . There lye dispersed upon the ground in several places vast marble pillars ; some white , others speckled ; these latter hard by the Temple of Diana , of about seven foot in diameter , and about forty foot in heigth ; their Chapiters fallen off , and lying neer them proportionable , of about eleven or twelve foot square , and about four or five foot thick , the bases whereon they were fixed being alike thick . The Temple of Diana ( for so tradition and fancy will have it , though I suppose it might have been a Christian Church built upon the ruines of it ) is to the West North-west , where lye stones of a huge weight heaped one upon another ; it lies North North-east , and South South-west , the entrance from the former , as we conjectured by reason of a very fair gate that way still remaining , formerly enclosed with a wall ( taking up a good compass of ground , where they might have their gardens and other accommodations ) though most of it now broken down . To the West of it , having lighted our tapers , and made fast our cord , we went into the labyrinth on the right-hand , where after a descent of several foot , we crept through a narrow passage , and so past forward in a direct line ; on each side were several rooms , that open into others , built arch-wise ; the alleys being so low , that we were forced to creep through them too ; and having continued for above a quarter of an hour in these subterranean Vaults built very artificially , and intended only at first as a foundation of the Temple , ( though not undeservedly called a labyrinth , by reason of its several turnings , and the difficulty of finding a passage out of it without the help of a clew ) being somewhat solicitous of the ill effects of the damps and the thick air , which put us into an extraordinary sweat , we hasted to enjoy the fresh air and the comfortable light of the Sun. To the South-west of the Temple are the remains of a Watch-Tower or Castle , placed upon a high rocky hill , whence there is a very fair prospect of the South-west Sea , and of the Promontory Trogyllium . Tradition will have this to be the place where St. Paul was imprisoned , out of reverence to which it is so called ; though the situation , and the narrowness of it , it being not above eleven or twelve paces square , encline me to believe , that it was only intended for a Watch-Tower to observe what ships pass to and again in those Seas ; from which it may be distant about five miles . Here we observed to the North-west the various turnings of the Cayster , more crooked than those of Maeander , watering the plains below . On the North-east of Diana's Temple lies upon the ground a very large Font of porphiry , the inmost circle being about six foot in diameter , which is called by the name of St. John's Font , there being four pillars not far from it , upon which they suppose it was raised . A thing very unlikely , that in those sad times of persecution under Domitian and Trajan , when the poor Christians were forced to serve God in grottas , and Converts were baptized secretly , there should be such care taken to do it in so stately a laver . On the East are the Aqueducts . Upon the side of the Eastern hill is the Cave of the seven Sleepers , neer it several small arches ; and more forward of them a very large arch , within which are several little caverns . On the North is St. John's Church , turn'd into a Mosch ; about seventy paces in length , and five and twenty in bredth . In it are four pillars standing in a row of excellent porphyry , of about five foot in diameter , and much about the bigness of those that are in Sultan Suleiman's Mosch in Constantinople , and about forty foot in heigth , which support two Cuppolas , the glass windows still remaining ; before it a very large and fair entrance . Northward of the Church on the gate leading up to the new Castle are very curious figures engraven , representing several , who seem to be haled and dragged away , as if perchance the design had been to shew how the poor Christians were formerly seized upon and treated by their heathen persecutors . Here are two very spacious Theaters , the one under the Southern hill , the other to the West , neer which is a stately gate , where I found these words engraven in two places . ACCENSORENSI ET ASIAE . Upon a Pillar by the ruin'd Aqueduct . 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 On a marble not far from Diana's Temple . C. CLODIO . C. F. MAEC . NUMMO . TRIB . LEG . XIII . GEM . X. VIR . STL. IVD . .... PROVINCIAE ASIAE .... RTINIVS QUINTILIANVS .... IATIVS MATERNVS .... DIVS NVMMUS ACILIVS .... STRABO FILIVS FECIT . On another hard by . 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 On the 21th , within a mile of Ephesus we past over the Cayster , a very deep river ; and two hours after past through a narrow place of about thirty yards in length , cut very deep through a rock , I suppose , done out of a capriccio to exercise the Souldiers , and to shew that nothing is too difficult and impossible for art and industry to effect . The marishes that lye below it on each side of the cause-way , and the low ground so apt to be overflown , may make it unpassable that way at some time of the year ; but here , this lying upon the ascent of the hill , that cannot be pretended . From hence we clambered over the Alyman , which is extraordinary bad way ; part of the famous mountain Mimas , ( which runs as far as Cape Cornobbero , the Turks call it Kara-borun or the Cape with the black nose , at the entrance into Smyrna Bay ) which we past over in two hours . After ten hours we forded a little river called Halesus , that runs into the Sea at Colophon ; two hours beyond which is a Turkish Town called Giamo-bashee , situated in a spacious plain with several handsome Moschs in it ; where not meeting with any accommodation , we rode half a mile further to a poor Village called Karagick-kuy , where we lodged , and the next morning we arrived safe at Smyrna , being the twentieth day from our departure . Smyrna , called by the Turks Esmir , lyes in the bottom of a Bay , which is encompassed with high mountains on all sides except to the West , about ten leagues in length , where is good anchoring ground , and the water deep ; so that the Ships ride neer the Merchants scales , who for their convenience live to the water side . The bredth at the bottom may be , I ghess , about two or three miles . To the North is the river Meles . This is one of the most flourishing Cities of the lesser Asia , both for its great trade and the number of its inhabitants ; in which I include Franks , Jews and Armenians , as well as Greeks and Turks . Little of its ancient glory is left standing , earthquakes and fire and war having made as great desolations and wastes here , as in the other parts of Anatolia . 'T is certain from the numerous foundations continually dug up , that the greatest part of the buildings anciently were situated upon the side of the hill , and more to the South : the houses below toward the Sea being built , since Smyrna became of late years a place of trade . On the top of the hill , which overlooks the City and Bay , is an old Castle without any regular fortifications about it , and in a manner slighted ; there being only two or three guns for fashions sake mounted , with which they salute the new Moon of Bairam , and the Captain Bassa , when he comes into the Port with his armata of Galleys . Neer the entrance is a marble head , the nose of which is cut off by Turks out of their great zeal and hatred of all kind of humane figures especially . I found nothing in it observable but a Cistern or perchance Granary under ground propt by pillars , and the bottom curiously plaistered over ; the work of the ancient Greeks : but much inferior to one I saw in the long Island just within the Bay on the side of a hill , into which there is a descent of about eight or nine feet ; the buildings very regular and stately , having twenty pillars in length , and five in bredth , the distance between each about seven of my paces , that is above one hundred and sixty paces one way , and above thirty five another . At a little distance from which is another almost of the same bigness , but filled with water ; the Island being altogether uninhabited , but full of wild hogs and hares . On the sides of the other gate of the Castle are yet to be seen two Eagles , the ensigns of the Romans , delineated at large , and handsomely enough . In our descent to the South-east we entred the Amphitheatre , where St. Polycarp first Bishop of this City was martyred , the stony steps being removed for the most part by the Turks for their buildings and other uses . In the sides are still to be seen the two Caves opposite to each other , where they used to enclose their Lions ; fighting with beasts being in ancient times the great diversion of the people of this Countrey , and to which they usually condemned their slaves , and the poor Christians especially . On the side of the hill , but somewhat lower , is the sepulchre of this great Saint , which the Greeks solemnly visit upon the anniversary festival consecrated to his memory : in complyance with an ancient custom in use almost from the times of his martyrdom , as Eusebius relates in the 4th Book of his Ecclesiastical History , chap. 15. It is placed in a little open room , that possibly might be some Chappel : in the entrance of which I found this inscription upon a marble stone now placed in a chimney . 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 The poor Greeks are very careful in repairing this monument , if it any way suffers , either by the weather , it being exposed to the air , or by the Turks , or by the Western Christians , who break off pieces of marble and carry them away as reliques ; an earthen dish hanging by , to receive the aspers any either out of curiosity or veneration and respect to the memory of the blessed Martyr shall bestow for the repair of his Tomb. Nigh hereunto are several arches , stones of huge bigness lying upon the ground , and a great building having three large rooms upon a floor ; which perchance was a place of Judicature : the front having been formerly adorned with four pillars , the bases of which at present only remain . Not many years since in a lane towards the North-east , digging for a foundation they met with several rows of square stones placed regularly one above another , and in all probability it might be part of a Fane or Temple in the times of Heathenism . In the walls of the City I observed a great cavity almost in every square stone , resembling somewhat a Roman V , which some fancy might be in the honour of the Emperor Vespasian , who was a great benefactor to this City . But the figure not being always the same , but admitting great variety , I am apt to believe it was rather made by the Masons , that the stones might be the better cemented together . About a mile from the Town are the ruines of a Church , which the Franks call by the name of Janus's Temple : which I believe rather to have been dedicated to St. John the great Saint of the East , and that hence the mistake of the name is to be fetch'd . The Turks have here thirteen Moschs ; the Jews several Synagogues ; and yet tho Smyrna still retains the dignity of a Metropolitical seat ; the Greeks have but two Churches , the one dedicated to St. George , the other , if I do not misremember , to St. Photinus . The Armenians have only one Church : in the Church-yard whereof , I met with these inscriptions . In the Eastern division . 1 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . 2 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . In the Southern . 1 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 2 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 ... 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 3 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 4 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . For the other inscriptions , I must refer the learned Reader to the Latin copy . By this short and imperfect survey the curious Reader may be sadly convinced , in what a pitiful and deplorable condition these once famous and glorious Churches of Asia are at this day ; Churches , which had the Apostles for their Founders , and which yielded so many Martyrs , and which abounded with so many myriads of Christians , whose patience and valour tired out and wearied , and at last triumphed over the tyranny , the malice , and the hatred of their Heathen persecutors ; and which afterward , when the Empire became Christian , and the civil power submitted it self to the law and discipline of Christ , and when the Cross , which before was had in such execration , was held the highest ornament of the Crown , advanced in splendor and glory above what they had enjoyed in the times of Heathenism , & which upon a due consideration of circumstances one might have truly enough judged should have been eternal and placed almost out of all possibility of danger and ruine , now turned into heaps of rubbish ; scarce one stone left upon another , some of them utterly uninhabited , and the remains of all horribly frightful and amazing . I shall not here lament the sad traverses and vicissitudes of things , and the usual changes and chances of mortal life , or upbraid the Greeks of luxury and stupidity , which have brought these horrid desolations upon their Countrey : these are very useful but very mean and ordinary speculations . That which affected me with the deepest anguish and most sorrowful resentment when I was upon the place , and does still , was and is a reflexion upon the threat made against Ephesus mentioned in the second Chapter of the Revelations of St. John , who made his abode in that City , and died there . Remember from whence thou art fallen , and do the first works : or else I will come unto thee quickly , and will remove thy Candlestick out of its place , except thou repent . And upon a farther and more serious consideration , as I sorrowfully walked through the ruines of that City especially , I concluded most agreeably , not only to my function , but to the nature of the thing , ( and I am confident no wise or good man who shall cast his eyes upon these loose and hasty observations will deny the conclusion to be just and true ) that the sad and direful calamities which have involved these Asian Churches , ought to proclaim to the present flourishing Churches of Christendom , ( as much as if an Angel were sent express from Heaven to denounce the judgment ) what they are to expect , and what may be their case one day , if they follow their evil example , that their Candlestick may be removed too , except they repent and do their first works ; and that their security lyes not so much in the strength of their frontiers , and the greatness of their armies , ( for neither of these could defend the Eastern Christians from the invasion and fury of the Saracens and Turks ) as in their mutual agreements , and in the virtues of a Christian life . A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF CONSTANTINOPLE . COnstantinople seems to have the advantage of most Cities in the World for situation , either in respect of the pleasantness of its prospect ; or for security against the attaques of an enemy , it being naturally fortified , and might be made impregnable by art ; or for its narrow passage into Asia ; as if , in all changes and revolutions of government , designed by God for the chief seat of Empire and command . The high hills , upon which it is seated , add much to the beauty and glory of it ; several knots of Cypress-trees appearing 〈◊〉 set upon them , that to one sailing in the Propontis , it looks like a City placed in the middle of a wood : but in the haven it resembles a great Amphitheatre , the houses like so many steps rising orderly one above another ; the gilded spires of the Moschs reflecting the light with great pleasure to the eye : so that to all travellers it seems justly the most delightful , the most admirable , and most charming spectacle of nature : and what would even satisfy for the tediousness and fatigues of a Sea-voyage , were there nothing in it to please the fancy or curiosity besides . Though it lies upon the Sea , yet on both sides the passages to it are so narrow , that there can be no coming at it without great difficulty . The entrance to it toward the Mediterranean is by the Hellespont , which is there about five miles over : where is a perpetual current into the Archipelago , which is strong and violent , and especially when the wind is at North , which blows for the most part here and at Constantinople eight or nine months of the twelve : the want of a Southerly wind , which is necessary to get up the channel , making the passage very long and tedious . Neer the two head lands the Turks have , since the beginning of the war : of Candia , built two Castles , to prevent the landing of the Venetians , who before past unmolested with their ships and galleys up as high as the Dardanels . In the Castle on the level within Cape Janizary , anciently Promontorium Sigaeum on the Asian shore I counted six and twenty great guns in front ; and about sixteen on the side toward Tenedos . A little above at the end of a long sand is the river Scamander . Sailing directly in the middle of the stream , the guns can do no great execution . The Hellespont widens hence Eastward , till almost at an equal distance between the Aegaean and Propontick Seas ( for it ends at Gallipoli ) you arrive at the narrowest strait , being scarce three quarters of an English mile over : where are two strong Castles to command the passage ; which the Turks call Boghashisar , or the Castles in the strait or jaws of the channel , but better known to the Christians by the name of the Dardanelli ; directly opposite to one another . The Castle of Sestos on Europe side , lying under a hill , is triangular : having twenty five guns level with the water ; and a Bastion at each angle : in the middle an high Tower consisting of three semicircles , encompassing a square fortification . Abydus on the opposite shore lies in a plain ; the Castle square , having about sixteen guns , which almost touch the surface of the water . On the sides are raised round Towers , and in the middle an oblong work . The strength of these Castles is the great security of Constantinople ; no ships being able to get by without manifest danger of being sunk : and if at any time a ship or gally coming from Constantinople have part , helpt forward by the current and a brisk Northerly gale , it ought not to be ascribed so much to good fortune or a wily stratagem , as to the carelesness and stupidity of the Castellans . For any but Turks , who do not well understand fortification , and the use of great guns , to make them bear to the best advantage , would infallibly , humanely speaking , defend and secure the passage . On the other side the Euxine Sea , Constantinople is defended by the Bosphorus , whose channel is about eighteen miles in length . The first Castles , which guard each side of it , are about five miles from the City , built by Mahomet the great , from which about nine miles to the second , where the distance between the two shores is not much above a mile . The current so violent , especially when the wind blows hard at North , that the water-men , who pass toward the black Sea , are at such times forced to go ashore , and hale their boats . I observed in several places a ripling or bubbling of the water , as in the Race at Portland . In the several turnings and windings are large Bays for small Vessels , ( made by the Promontories , which run out so far , that they seem at a distance to stop the passage ) especially on the Thracian shore , upon which several Villages are situated , and where the Bassa's and other great men have their villas and houses of pleasure . The Bithynian shore , for the most part covered with wild Olive , Chesnut , and Cypress-trees , seems to be one continued wood or garden , and yields a pleasant and curious entertainment to the eye , Almost in the entrance or mouth of the Bosphorus are placed several rocks , the Symplegades of the ancients , which break the force of the waters continually poured out of the black Sea. On Europe side I counted four , which lye so close one to another , that the Sea at some little distance not being discerned to run between , they seem to joyn together . In the greatest of them remains still a pillar of white marble of the Corinthian order , about eighteen foot in height , commonly called by the Western Christians , Pompey's pillar , as if it had been erected by that great man , in memory of a victory gained over Mithridates King of Pontus . But this is the invention of an ignorant and trifling fancy , taken up without any ground of reason or old tradition , ( just after the same manner as they call the ruines , which are neer Belgrade a Village about four miles from the Bosphorus , by the name of Ovid's Tower ) and is sufficiently confuted by the inscription upon the basis , where is plainly legible the name of Augustus Caesar , though the remaining part is so effaced , that conjectures are different . But the best and truest I take to be this ; AVGVSTO CAESARI E. CLAV . ANNIDIVS . LE. CLASSIS I PONTO . On the neighbouring shore is a Pharus or Watch-Tower , a very stately and elegant structure , and built long before the Turks were masters of a foot of land in Europe , now serving for a light house to direct Vessels in the nigh to enter the Bosphorus with greater ease and safety : which I ascended that I might take the better view of the Euxine , which not so much for want of good Ports , as for their ignorance in the Mariners art , becomes in foul and stormy weather so dangerous and fatal to the Turks . This situation of Byzantium between two Seas rendred it a place of great trade & commerce long before the times of Constantine , who restored it to its ancient glory out of its rubbish , the Emperor Severus through indignation and revenge , for the long and stout opposition the Citizens made in favour of Pescennius Niger , having long before ruined and demolished it . All the products and commodities of Greece , Aegypt and Mauritania may with great ease and convenience of shipping be brought hither . It joyns upon the lesser Asia , where Souldiers and all sorts of provision may be conveyed in an hours space . Besides , the various nations which inhabit all along the coasts of the Pontick Sea , and the lake of Maeotis here find a quick vent for their merchandise : as do the several Christian Nations , as the Cossacks , Moldavians , and Wallachians , and those of Podolia , who live either toward the Sea or nigh the great rivers of Boristhenes or the Danube : beside the Persian and Armenian Merchants and those of Christendom . So that however the winds chance to blow , Ships may come in continually from the one Sea or the other : they are supplied especially from the black Sea with Corn , Furs , Wax , Honey , and the like . The present name of Constantinople is Istanpol , or according to the common and ordinary pronunciation , Stambol : which plainly shews it not to be originally Turkish , for Istamboul a City full of or abounding with the true faith , as some most ignorantly fancy , but corrupted from the Greek : the Turks for the most part retaining the old names of Cities , though with some little variation accommodating them to their own language , as Adriane , Bursia , Esmir , Budun , Saloniki , Conia for Adrianople , Prusia , Smyrna , Buda , Thessalonica , and Iconium . It lies over against Scutari , formerly Chrysopolis , about the distance of a league on the other side of the water on the Bithynian shore , which seems to be built out of the ruines of Chalcedon , not far distant from it : which is situated in the bottom of a narrow and shallow Bay. It is now a poor beggarly Village , having lost its old name , and known only by that of Kadi-kuy : though out of respect to what it was in ancient times , it still retains the dignity of a Metropolitical seat among the Greeks ; the curious and stately Church consecrated to the memory of Saint Euphemia Virgin and Martyr , being the only remainder of its formor greatness and magnificence . But to return to Constantinople . It is cast into a triangular figure ; the vertex of which is a point of land to the East , called by the Greeks the Promontory of St. Demetrius , on which is built the Seraglio or Palace of the Emperor . The greater side , which lies upon the Propontis , runs N. W. and S. E. about the space of six miles from the point to the seven Towers . The other side , which makes the haven , winding like a horn , called therefore by Strabo 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 , lies East and West ; and may be almost three miles in lenght . The basis is the Isthmus , which unites it to the Champaign and Continent of Thrace , and lies meridionally from the Sea to the upper part of the haven , almost four miles long , having three walls running in a strait line , as far as the ruines of Costantines Palace , ( neer which is the greatest eminence of the City ) where is a turning at a small distance from the Port , and only a single wall , like the other two sides , which are washed with the Sea. So that the compass of the whole is between twelve and thirteen miles ; the latitude various , and at about two miles at the widest , which is caused by the approach or distance of the several parts of the opposite angles . It is advantageously placed , as I said before , upon the rising of several hills ; seven of which are most conspicuous for their great heigth ; most of them have upon their tops very stately Moschs built after the model of Sancta Sophia , whose cuppolas and pyramids seem almost to reach the clouds . But of these Moschs I shall have occasion to speak distinctly . No place perchance in the World deceives a mans expectation more than Constantinople , it promising so largely at a distance both from the land and Sea : but when you enter into it , all the glorious outward appearance seems but a delusion of fancy . The streets narrow and unequal , and by reason of their steepiness in several places , troublesome to walk in , except one fair street , which crosseth the City from the Seraglio to Adrianople gate . And however the narrowness of the streets ( though it detracts much from the sightliness and beauty of a place ) may be excused for the benefit it affords in sheltering passengers from the rayes of the Sun , yet the filth and nastiness is intolerable ; dunghils and great wastes of ground , caused by fire , being every where to be met with . The ordinary houses are generally very low and mean , and without any ornament of building or strong materials ; only a few bords clapt together , and the walls of clay , baked in the Sun. Some few houses of the Greeks remain , which are built of stone , and high : which shew what Constantinople was before the Turks cut and broke down all the carved and stone-work with their scymitars , and axes , and hammers , and set fire upon the holy places and Palaces , and pull'd down the Cross , and set up their half-Moon instead of it . The Bassas houses are but little better : no portico or pillar at the entrance ; no curious walks adorned with rows of trees in their gardens ; no pictures or statues ; no hangings , no fret-work in their ceiling ; their outward Courts rude and irregular . They take up indeed a great compass of ground : and the portals are checkered with several colours , as red , blue , yellow : their rooms are above stairs , which lead into a gallery or hall ; the chambers little boxes , the chief furniture of which lies upon the floor : though sometimes the roof is gilt , and the sides covered with tiles , with flowers and foliage painted , and sometimes , though very rarely , with cedarwainscot : they being afraid to build rich and great Palaces ; not only because it would be lookt upon as an argument of a foolish and vain pride , but also of ostentation of their riches , and what might really prove a snare , and draw the envy and ill-will of the Emperor upon them . The walls are considerably thick and high , and serve equally for defence and ornament . Toward the Propontick there runs a ledge of rocks under water at some distance from the shore , which keeps off Ships of greater burthen , and only admits Galleys and Brigantines which draw but little water . Part of this wall , weakned by the violence of the waves , or thrown down by earthquakes , was repaired and rebuilt by the Emperor Theophilus , this inscription being to be found in several places : 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . Under the Seraglio-point , upon a platform , about four or five and twenty feet broad to the wall , gained from the Sea , are planted about fifty pieces of Cannon : one of which they are very chary of , as being the first which was discharged at the siege of Bagdat , which they afterwards so succesfully carried on : to which is opposite a small Castle not far from the other shore , which they call by the name of Kizkolasi or the Virgin Tower. These walls are built of free-stone , and only here and there pieced up with brick and uneven stones clapt in : a few breaches being left , I suppose , out of design , unrepaired in the wall to the landward , made by their guns when they lay before it . Here in the uppermost wall of the three are about two hundred and fifty square Towers with battlements , built at an equal distance : to the middle space of which , answer other Towers in the second wall , making so many isosceles triangles : the third a plain wall , now sunk very much in the ground ; the ditch from the high-way to the skirts of it being about five and twenty of my paces . Without are no suburbs , except two or three farm-houses , and toward the haven ; the Countrey lying open : which renders the prospect of Constantinople as pleasant and glorious to the eye upon the land as upon the Sea : and indeed the walk from the seven Towers , where I had occasion to go often , to the haven , all along these walls , seemed to be the most delightful and diverting of all that ever I took in my whole life . The gates are about five and twenty in number , whereof seven are toward the Propontis in this order , beginning from the Seraglio point : Achur-kapi , or the Stable-gate , nigh which are the stables of the Grand Signor . Chatlad-kapi , or the Cleft-gate . Kum-kapi , or the Sand-gate . Jeni-kapi , or the new gate . Daoud Bassa-kapi ; repaired by a Basha of that name , and hence it takes its denomination . Samathia-kapi . Narli-kapi , or the Pomegranate-gate . To the landward these , which front the West . Jedicoula-kapi , or the gate of the seven Towers : which some , wholly ignorant of the Turkish language , have through a gross mistake called Janicula . Selivrea-kapi , the gate which leads to Selymbria . Top-kapi , or the Gun-gate . Jeni-kapi , or the new gate . Edriane-kapi , or Adrianople-gate , as leading directly thither . Egri-kapi , or the crooked gate . Ivanseri-kapi , in the plain not far from the water side . To the Haven . Balat-kapi , I suppose , corrupted from Palatium ; leading up towards the ruines of the Palace of Constantine ; as they commonly call them . This gate is in the furthest recess of the Canal , or arm of the Sea , dividing Constantinople from Pera and Galata : into which run two little rivers , which have long since lost the ancient names of Cydrus and Barbyses . Petri-kapi , I suppose , from a Christian Church neer it , dedicated formerly to the honour and memory of St. Peter . Phanar-kapi , 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 , or the Lanthorn-gate . Here and at Gun-gate the Turks first broke into the City : the poor Greeks having raised a wall upon the side of the hill , not daring to trust to that by the water side , to this day called by them in their vulgar language , 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . Gebali-kapi , or the Hill-gate , or as others pronounce it , Giob-ali , the deep Well-gate . Vnkaban-kapi , or the Meal-gate ; neer which are the publick granaries . Odun-kapi , or the Wood-gate : over which may yet be seen this moral sentence , 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . Yemish-kapi , or the Fruit-gate . Balukbazar-kapi , or the Fishmarket-gate . Balkaban-kapi , or the Honey-gate . Zindan-kapi , or the Prison-gate . Bahchia-kapi , or the Garden-gate , hard by the Seraglio . The Emperor's Palace ; which the Turks call Padisha Serai ( from which latter word , which in the Persian language signifies any stately Mansion , the Italians , from whom we and the French borrow it form their Seraglio , and appropriate it hereto ) is situated partly upon the plain , and partly upon the rising of the hill , which overlooks the Promontory at the very entrance into the haven ; having the Thracian Bosphorus on the East : upon which point the current sets so violently , that Vessels oftentimes upon the slacking and scantiness of wind are cast upon it , and get off with very great difficulty . Two sides of it , taking in the gardens belonging to it , are washed by the Sea : the third to the land , flanked with Towers , which jet out . Here in all likelyhood stood old Byzantium : afterward in the succeeding ages of Christianity was placed here-abouts a Colledge of religious persons belonging to the neighbouring Church of Sancta Sophia . Several years past after the taking of Constantinople , before the Turkish Emperors made it their residence : Mahomet the great abandoning the Greek Emperor's Palace , either because demolisht in the time of the siege , or as ominous to himself and successors , having fixt his seat almost in the center of the City : called to this day Eski-serai or the old Palace , which has but one gate , and the walls very high : where the women of the deceased Emperor are conveyed and shut up as close prisoners without any hope of liberty , except when they are bestowed as wives upon the great favourite Bassas ; being only permitted at the feast of Bairam , to come and make their complements to the Hasaki Sultana or the chief woman of the Emperor , who has been so happy as to bring him a boy in the Seraglio . The whole enclosure comprehending the gardens and spacious Courts , may take up about two miles in compass . The gate to the landward , which is the usual entrance , ( the rest seldom opened , except upon great occasion ) is always guarded by Capigies , the in-side hung with shields , darts , guns , and spears ; without any great ornament , two pillars of course marble propping up the sides . It opens into a Court , whose area may be between three and four hundred paces in length , but not proportionably wide ; the whole lying rude . On the left-hand is a great building , where the Agiamgolaus , who do all the drudgery and all the vile offices about the Seraglio are quartered : as also a round building , supposed to have been a Sacristia of Sancta Sophia , but now turned into an Armory . On the right is an Hospital , where such as fall sick within the Seraglio , are brought for cure . At the second gate , guarded also by Capigies , ( over which there is the often mentioned form of the profession of the Mahometan Faith written in Arabick in large golden letters ) the chief Vizir must dismount , only the Emperor himself riding on horse-back into the second Court ; which is very stately . The area square , a portico covered with lead and sustained by pillars of Theban marble , whose bases and chapiters are bound with brazen circles , running round it . The walks curiously laid out into parterrs on the sides of the paved walks , and set with rows of Plane-trees and Cypresses , and a fountain in the middle . At the further end on the left-hand is the Divan or Council-Chamber ; where the great Vizir and in his absence his Deputy or Caimacam , assisted by the Cadileskires and other men of the law , administers justice four times every week , that is , Saturday , Sunday , Monday , and Tuesday ; from whose sentence there lies no remedy of appeal . At the upper end is a casement , which opens into it , where the Grand Signor often comes , ( though he cannot be seen there ) out of curiosity or design , to hear the determination of cases brought before them . This Court of Judicature is not thronged with idle spectators , here is no place for such curiosity ; only business or a particular citation draws company hither ; much less is it permitted to strangers to be present at such times . Mahomet Kupriuli Father to the late Vizir Achmet , who took Candia , one day espying several French Gentlemen present , demanded their business : they presuming upon the innocence of their curiosity , answered , they only came to see : which put him into a fit of passion , What , said he , do you take us for monkeys , which shew tricks , that you come here to gaze and stare upon us ? whereupon they were rudely thrust out , and upon their alledging they were strangers , and knew not the customs of the Countrey , with very great difficulty they escaped drubbing . To prevent the like affront or danger , I made a pretence of debt upon a Jew in Smyrna , and attended by our chief Interpreter , by whose contrivance the little plot was laid , went boldly into the Seraglio to demand justice ; my request was very plausible ; and upon the proposal of it , they granted me a warrant to arrest my Jew in case the debt was not speedily satisfied , the fees not coming to above one hundred or six-score aspers . The inmost part of the Seraglio beyond the third gate , and the womens apartment , is kept secret , and to Christians inaccessible , except upon extraordinary occasions . The whole , ( though not built according to the rules of modern Architecture , not to be compared with the Palaces of Christian Princes ) as to the outward appearance seems handsome and stately . For the better accommodation of Merchants and travellers , ( there being no such thing as an Inn in our acception of the word in Turkey ) Chanes or publick lodgings are erected in the chief streets of the City : from the free use of which no one of what Countrey or Religion soever is exempted or debarred , called for distinction either by the names of their several Founders , or from the peculiar sort of Merchandise , to which they are appropriated , as the Silk Chane , or the Rice Chane , and the like . The two best and stateliest I saw are those of the present Emperor's Mother neer her Mosch toward the haven , and of Kupriuli in Taouk-bazar or the Hen-market . But the figure and the use are the same in all . They are built for the most part of squared stone , in the middle of the area is a little Mosch . A stone-gallery above the stairs running round , and little narrow chambers opening into it ; and the like below in Chanes of a late foundation : for in those which are ancient , there is no division into stories or partition into rooms ; but all lies open like a great barn under the same roof : a little wall about a foot and a half high , and four or five feet broad , being raised round with chimneys at three or four yards distance . The Bezesten or Exchange is a square stone-building , where they sell linnen , cloth of London , as they call our woollen manufacturies , Furs , &c. but this must not be compared with that at Prusia either for greatness or ornament . The publick Bagnos , which are for the uses of strangers , and such as cannot furnish out so great an expence , as to have them in their houses , ( there being a continual necessity of bathing , not only upon the account of religion , but also of health in those hot Countreys ) are built of a courser sort of marble with a large cuppola . In the outward room there is a fountain , round which a seat of brick covered with mats , where they undress themselves : out of which you go through a narrow passage into a spacious room comprehended under the cuppola , little oblong squares setting out in the sides . Upon the first entrance , except care be taken before-hand to reduce the body to such a temper , so as to endure the heat , one shall scarce be able to fetch breath , unless with great difficulty , and be almost stifled with the hot exhalations , which are so gross , that oftentimes finding no vent and reverberated by the roof , they are condensed , and fall down in thick drops of water . Constantinople owes the chiefest part of its present glory to the great Moschs , which were either formerly Christian Churches , or else built and endowed by several Emperors and other great men . Of these and their Founders , who have adorned the profession of their Religion with such pomp and magnificence , the Turks , after the manner of their eloquence , which consists in foolish and indiscreet hyperboles , use swelling words of vanity . By the vastness of the structures they judg of their zeal and piety ; and the greatness of the revenue is an argument and proof of their successes and victories : custom by the bewitchery of the Mufti and the other Church-men prevailing , that no Emperor can assume the honour of building a Mosch , except he has gained so much ground in Christendom , with the revenue of which he may maintain the publick service of religion in it , in part at least , as if it were offering up a proportion of the spoil to God by way of acknowledgment and gratitude . Which consideration must needs have a mighty influence upon them to carry on their wars with all imaginable vigour , not only out of a desire of fame to imitate and equal the glory of their predecessors , but out of a principle of zeal and conscience . They make a fine shew , especially toward the haven , and are seen at a great distance ; situated for the most part on the hills ; and though not all in a strait line , yet the heigth takes off so much from the obliqueness of the angle , that the eye is at no trouble or loss to find them out . Aia Sophia ; for so the Turks call Sancta Sophia , without any other variation from the old Greek name . Achmets in the Hippodrome . Bayazids . Suleimans , neer the old Seraglio . Shahzadeh . This built by Suleiman also in memory of his Son Mahomet , the eldest he had by a Russian woman , whom we call from her Countrey , Roxolana , who died in his youth in his government at Magnesia . Mahomets , who took the City . This was formerly a Christian Church dedicated to the memory of the H. Apostles : in which many of the Greecian Emperors lye buried . Selims , who was the Father of Suleiman . He overthrew the government of the Mamalucks , and subdued Egypt . Another Mosch of Mahomet the great , which they call Phatih giame or the Conqueror's Mosch for distinction . This was a Christian Church dedicated to the B. Virgin St. Mary ; and after the taking of the City given to Gennadius Scholarius then Patriarch for the Patriarchal Church , but afterwards seized on by this Emperor for the services and uses of his own false religion . Sancta Sophia appears still a most glorious structure , though the Turks are not so careful about the beauty and ornament and reparations of it , as of the other Moschs . The contrivance and architecture are very admirable , fully answering the description given of it by Procopius Caesariensis , who was contemporary with the most glorious Emperor Justinian the Founder , and one of the officers of his Court. A stately portico at the entrance from the ascent ; five gates covered with plates of Corinthian brass lead into the nave of the Church . It s length about one hundred and twenty of my paces , and almost half as wide . The whole fabrick resting upon arches is upheld by three rows of pillars of different marble , Serpentine , Porphyry , and a kind of Alabaster , whose bases and capitels are bound about with brass wreaths . In the middle there arises a large cuppola , supported by four massy pillars , and encompassed without with many little cuppolas , some higher than the rest : several little Chappels of an oblong figure toward the sides . There is an ascent by a winding pair of stairs into the galleries , which take up three sides of the Church , supported by several curious marble pillars . The pavement both of the Church and gallery is marble , not made up of little squares , but of very large tables : the walls crusted over and slagged with the same . The roof of the Church and portico in mosaick ; though the Turks have defaced the faces of several figures ; yet notwithstanding several representations of sacred history may be clearly enough discerned . The two next best Moschs are Suleimans and Achmets . In the middle of the Court , which encompasses the former , is a large square fountain covered at top . The portico adorned with very curious tall pillars ; the pavement laid with large tables of porphyry : the cuppola propt up by four pillars of the same sort of marble , whose circumference may be about twenty foot , the spoils of a Christian Church : for such art and curiosity are above the reach and skill of Turks . Into Achmets Mosch there is an ascent of twelve stone-steps , the gate of brass curiously wrought : the four arches of the cuppola upheld by four pillars of cast marble , as I judg it to be , of a very vast bulk . It still retains the name of the new Mosch , though divers have been built since , and a stately one very lately neer the garden gate toward the haven by the Mother of the present Emperor , a Russ by Nation , and the daughter of a poor Priest . That which is common to all the Royal Moschs is this ; several gates open into the area ; within which are fountains or conduits full of cocks and basons for their cleansing , before they make their prayers ; close adjoyning an Hospital , and porticos built arch-wise , the little cuppolas covered with lead running all along in an even line : usually four spires or cylindrical towers of a great heigth , which the Priests ascend to call the people to their devotion , raised from the ground , and placed at a due distance and in opposite corners including a square space ; except at Achmets Mosch , where there are six . Each of these have a threefold gallery , one above another . the tops of these towers are gilt and end in a point like a pyramid , on which is placed a gilded Crescent , the ensign of the Mahometan religion , and so generally where-ever there is any Mosch or oratory ; though never so mean and little . The name of God or of Mahomet , or his four chief companions , or the form of the profession of the Musulman faith inscribed upon the inside of the walls : and lastly , several iron circles or hoops containing a vast number of chrystal lamps used to be lighted at their night prayers : so that with the reflexion from the arches and pillars , the Church seems to be of a light fire . Within the enclosure of the outward wall are the sepulchral monuments of the several Founders and their children : for no one lies buried in their Churches , no not the Emperors themselves . They are built of white marble with a cuppola . The marble coffins , which are very large and above the proportion of their bodies , lying in a space encompassed with iron-grates , two great tapers being placed at the end , are covered for the most part with a silk Pall of a deep green , having a good fringe , their turbants , which they renew every year , being placed over their heads . Their women lye neer them ; but their coffins are not so large , nor raised so high from the ground , covered with purple or violet cloth . The coffins of their children are bigger or less according to the age at which they dyed . Such as have been strangled by their Brothers , who usually since the reign of Bayazid the second lay the foundation and beginning of their Empire in fratricide , have a handkerchief tied about their necks , as a sign of their unnatural death . These little Chappels are frequented by several Priests and other pensioners , who are obliged to come and say prayers for the souls of the deceased . Several Emperors , who have not been Founders of Moschs , have their monuments neer Sancta Sophia , as Selim the son of Suleiman with his thirty seven children ; Morat the third , who had a more numerous issue : for I told about five and forty ; Mahomet the third , Mustapha the great Unkle , and Ibrahim the Father of this present Emperor , both by a strange fate preferred to the Empire , and both deprived of it ; alike in their lives and deaths : both foolish and frantick , and equally unfit to sustain the weight of the government , and both strangled . Hard by Achmet's Mosch lye buried his two sons Osman and Morat , both warlike Emperors , who endeavoured to reduce the souldiery , which through sloth and luxury had much degenerated , to their ancient discipline . The first made away with by the Janizaries , whose ill behaviour in his expedition against Poland , and other insolencies he could no longer support , and therefore designed to have destroyed the whole order , and to have instituted a new militia ; which they perceiving , they grew tumultuous and mutinous , and soon after had him bow-string'd : the other died with a debauch . Being at the Mosch of Mahomet the great , I had a curiosity to see the tomb of his Mother , who was no way shaken by the artifices and enticements of her Husband and son from her fixt resolutions of continuing in her religion , but lived and died a Christian , being the daughter of Lazarus Despot of Servia . Several Turks , who were there present in the area , perceiving I bade my Janizary enquire which was her Turbeh or Chappel , immediately before they were ask'd , pointed to it with their finger : which I entred , and found very plain and unadorned . The Turks care not to come into it : but several poor Christians frequent it at set hours , and have a small alms allowed them for the prayers they make there . This honour is indulged to some of the Bassas , who have by their valour and council highly merited of the Empire , to be buried in the City , and to have their sepulchral monuments in peculiar places they had purchased for this end : such as were the illustrious Bassa Ibrahim , to whom the Emperor Suleiman married one of his daughters , in whose praises the Turkish Historians are so foolishly lavish and extravagant , who lies buried neer Suleimania ; and Mahomet Kupriuli , who setled the government during the minority of the present Emperor , when it was almost torn asunder by the factions of the great men and the mutinies of the souldiery ; buried neer the Mosch he built in Taouk-bazar . In the suburbs to the West very neer the haven there are several of these Chappels : and among others the tomb of Sultan Ejub , a person of great fame among them , as being , as they pretend , Standard-bearer to Mahomet , a Prophet , and Martyr , of whose zeal and industry in propagating and defending the Musulman religion they tell a company of idle , foppish , and ridiculous stories . In the adjoyning area adorned with a portico , the new Emperor is inaugurated , the Mufti girting his sword about him , this being the only ceremony used at his investiture , and is instead of a coronation . This place I suppose is chosen out of respect to the memory of their great Saint , as if there were something of good omen in it , and to put the Emperor in mind of what he must do , if there be occasion , for the advancement of religion . The Janizaries by vertue of an old establishment , even in times of peace , that they might the sooner form themselves into a body , and prevent any sedition or tumult of the Citizens , were to live together : for which purpose there are two great Odas or buildings at a little distance one from the other at Constantinople to receive those who are quartered there . But by the connivence of the officers bribed with money and presents , several are permitted to be absent ; and the married men of the order turn shop-keepers and artizans to make better provision for their wives and children . Between these two chambers is their Mosch , where upon any emergence of state , that either may have an influence upon the Empire or their body , they have their meetings and consultations . The Acropolis or seven Towers , in the furthest angle of the City to the South upon the Propontis , serves rather for a prison , than a garrison : for though there be a few souldiers in it , yet I could observe no great guns or any other warlike furniture . In the garden belonging to the governour of the Castle is the tomb of Husain sirnamed Delli or the mad and furious , who had been Janizary-Aga or General of the Janizaries in Candia , where he was strangled by the command of the Vizir for several pretended miscarriages ; but the true cause of his death was believed to be his great merit , which the other envied , and could not brook with any patience , and accordingly contrived his ruine . But out of respect to his valour his body was sent hither to be interred , and to be honoured with a monument . I sought in vain for the several Palaces , Theaters , Baths , Conduits , Churches , and the other proud buildings with which this Imperial City was formerly adorned in the times of the Greecian Emperors , as I find them mentioned in ancient Histories and Surveys ; and indeed it would be just matter of wonder , that no more of the monuments , which the Emperour Constantine fetcht from Rome and the other places of Italy to adorn this City which was to be called * after his own name , and his successors emulous of the same glory afterward raised almost in every street , should now remain , if they had fallen into other hands than those of Turks , who make a greater ravage , where-ever they come , than either earthquakes or time it self . The few remaining pieces of Antiquity are these : The Circus or Hippodrome is about two or three furlongs in length , and almost half as wide . At one end of it is a large Colossus or Pillar , the top of it broken down , having suffered much by fire , and therefore called by the Franks la Colonna brugiata ; in whose basis these verses are engraven : 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 About the middle there remains an entire Aguglia or Obelisk of a kind of Granite or Theban marble , commonly called the Hieroglyphical pillar , by reason of the several figures of animals and other representations engraven upon the sides according to the Egyptian Priests and Philosophers , who used to involve some trivial slight notices of religion and nature in such dark and perplext characters . It is of a square figure , the four sides making so many equilateral triangles , which are sensibly contracted , as they rise higher and higher , till they end in a cone . That which makes it the more admirable , is , that it is one entire stone , 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 , as both Codinus and Manuel Chrysaloras call it ; whereas the Colossus consists of several pieces . The Emperour Theodosius raised it again upon its basis , after it had been cast down to the ground , ( in all probability by an earthquake , to which this City is subject ) as the double inscription attests , the one in Greek on the side to the West , the other in Latine to the East ; which while I read with so much ease , the Turks who stood by , ( such was their ignorance and stupidity ) were amazed , and enquiring after the sense and meaning , seemed hugely pleased and satisfied with what I told them . 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . DIFFICILIS QUONDAM DOMINIS PARERE SERENIS JUSSUS ET EXTINCTIS PALMAM PORTARE TYRANNIS OMNIA THEODOSIO CEDVNT SVBOLIVOVE PERENNI TERDENIS SIC VICTUS EGO DOMITUSQUE DIEBUS IVDICE SUB PROCLO SUPERAS ELATUS AD AURAS . In the same Piazza is a pillar of wreathed brass hollowed , at the top of which are the necks and heads of three Serpents , which shut out at an equal distance triangular-wise , This in all probability was designed a Talisman ( but whether made by that famous Conjurer Apollonius Tyanaeus , who resided here some time , is uncertain ) to preserve the City from Serpents , that might annoy them : this being one of the pretended wonderful effects of natural Magick , according to the credulity and superstition of those times ; which some fanciful men of late have very idly and foolishly gone about to make out and justify . The Porphyry pillar of Constantine the great , which he brought from old Rome , on the top of which he placed his own statue in brass , still remains in Taouk-bazar , bound about in several places of the shaft , where the pieces joyn with brass hoops ; but the marble is much defaced and blackened by fire , the statue having been long time tumbled down . In Aurat-bazar or the womens market upon an eminence stands another pillar , which is seen at a great distance by such as sail upon the Propontis : it rises to the heigth of about an hundred and forty feet , the top being broken off , to which they ascended by a winding pair of stairs ; several figures in basso rilievo are engraven upon it , which relate to a warlike expedition of the Emperour Arcadius , upon which accompt among the Frankes it has got the name of the Historical pillar . In the Western part of the City toward the Campaigne , but not far from the haven , are the remains of a certain palace called by the Turks Tekir Serai , and by the Greeks supposed to be that of Constantine , who was the last Emperour , and the Son of an Helena too , the last fate as well as first glory of Constantinople deriving from the same names . In the lower part there is only left standing a chamber adorned with curious wrought pillars of the Corinthian order , and above , a large stately hall . The other places are filled and stuffed up with ruines . That Constantinople , tho lying upon the Sea , might not be destitute of fresh water , which is so useful and necessary to life , was the chief care of the Emperour Valentinian , who caused aqueducts to be raised , by which the water is conveyed to the City from hill to hill in a winding compass the space of eighteen miles . But these by the sloth and carelesness of the Greeks and Turks falling to decay and rendred useless , were restored and refitted by the Emperor Suleiman , who was so intent upon this great work , that he said he would go on with it , although the laying every stone stood him in a purse of money , that is , five hundred dollars ; and it was one of the three things he so earnestly wisht he might live to effect , the other two being the finishing of the Mosch which bears his name , and the making himself Master of Vienna . The springs arise hard by a Village called Domus-deri , which lies toward the black Sea , whose waters are conveyed partly through little channels , and partly through pipes under ground into several large cisterns , nigh which are summer houses , floored , and sometimes the cieling painted , and the sides crusted with a kind of porcellane : the tops rising pyramidally , where the better sort of Turks in the heats of summer retire to enjoy the cool air , and for the shady walks , bringing sometimes their women with them , and spend there several days , pitching their tents for their better accommodation . Here it is , and here alone , that they seem to live gentily , and understand how to make use of the conveniences and delights of nature . Every one here is a Prince , and fancies himself for a time in Paradise . These cisterns are of different figures , square , round , oblong , hexagonal , made of free-stone , the bottom either paved or plaistered over , into which you descend by a pair of stairs sometimes twenty foot deep . Two of these above the rest are very stately , both within a mile of Belgrade , the one to the East , the other to the South-west . From this latter the waters are conveyed to the first Aqueduct neer a Greek Village called Pyrgos , the Christians of which , as of the neighbouring Villages , are free from paying haratch or head-money for their care in looking after the waters . This is a very magnificent pile of building , and of a great length , with a double range of arches about eight and forty or fifty in number , joyning two hills , and in the middle to the bottom of the valley it may be about one hundred feet : the water running in a covered channel at the top . Not far on the other side of the plain is another great Aqueduct , which makes an angle , having three ranges of arches one above another . On one line are two and twenty arches in the uppermost range , through which and the other below it are two galleries about five foot wide , in some places shut up on each side , in others open at the regular distance of about twelve foot : the contrivance was but necessary : for after the fall of rains or melting of the snow , which in some winters lies here very deep , there are such bogs below in the valleys , that no horse can pass that way : the other line is shorter , and consists of twelve arches , which grow less and less according to the greater or lesser steepiness of the hill . Hence about a mile you pass to a third Aqueduct : which indeed is a most splendid and glorious structure , containing only four arches in two ranges , the distance of the sides of the arches being above fifty foot . This Aqueduct is raised to a great heigth , whence the waters pass in an uninterrupted course , and fall into a large cistern in the City neer Sultan Selims Mosch , and so by earthen pipes are conveyed to the several houses . The Greeks have six and twenty Churches in Constantinople , and six in Galata ; of which I have given an account elsewhere . Galata , as it appears from an old survey in the times of the Emperors Arcadius and Honorius , made up the thirteenth and fourteenth Regions , that there might be the same number in new Rome , as Constantine would have his new City also called , as in the old . It is situated on the North side of the haven , by which it is divided from Constantinople . The passage is very easy , and a great number of boat-men get their living by carrying passengers to and again continually . This arm of the Sea is about half a mile wide , and in length from the Seraglio-point to the fresh water rivers between four and five miles ; of a great depth , that Ships of a considerable burthen may lye with their bolt-sprits ashore , and have several fathoms of water at the stern ; and so secure withal , being shut up with the several high hills and promontories , which break the force and violence of the wind and waves , that let the weather be never so ill , and the Sea boisterous in the Propontis , the Vessels are not in the least stirred with it in this narrow strait . The Arsenal is to the West , where there are several voltas or chambers built arch-wise , where they hall up their Galleys after the summer expedition is over . Galata of it self , both for the compass of the ground it takes up , and its strength , may be justly accounted a large City , and is very populous . It is encompassed with walls flankered with towers , built by the Emperor Anastasius , having a wide and deep ditch to the landward . It runs along the side of a hill , higher than those of Constantinople , and in several places is very steep . Formerly toward the declension of the Greecian Empire it was in the possession of the Genoueses ; the arms of some noble Families of that republick are still here and there to be seen engraven in the walls . Without which , both upon the ridge of the hill and upon the plain , farther in , toward and parallel with the haven , are several large streets , which whole tract of ground , by reason of its situation on the other side of the water , is therefore called by the Greek name Pera , where most of the Christian Ambassadors choose both for their convenience and privacy to make their residence . FINIS . Books sold by Moses Pitt , at the Angel in St. Paul's Church-yard . Folio . THE Six Voyages of John Baptista Tavernier , a Noble Man of France ( now living ) through Turkey into Persia , and the East-Indies , finished in the year 1670. Giving an account of the State of those Countreys . Illustrated with divers Sculptures : together with a new relation of the present Grand Seignior's Seraglio , by the same Author . To which is added a description of all the Kingdoms which encompass the Euxine and Caspian Seas . By an English Traveller , never printed before . Price 20 s. Theses Theologicae variis Temporibus in Academia Sedanensi editae , & ad disputandum propositae . Authore Ludovico de Blanc verbi Divini Ministro & Theologiae professore . In qua exponitur sententia Doctorum Ecclesiae Romanae , & Protestantium . 1675. Price 20 s. Dr. Henry Hammond's Sermons . 1675. A Table of ten thousand square Numbers , by John Pell , D. D. stitcht , 1 s. 6 d. 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Also two other Sermons , one Preached before the King at White-Hall , Jan. 30. 1676. by Henry Bagshaw , D. D. the other before the Lord Mayor , Decemb. 19. 1675. by John Cook. A Modest Survey of the most material things in a Discourse , called the Naked Truth . 6 d. A New Dictionary , French and English , by Guy Miege . 1677. Marshal Turenne's Funeral Sermon . 1677. Jer. Herrocii . Angl. Opusc . Astron . 1673. An Historical Vindication of the Church of England in Point of Schism by Sir Robert Twisden . The last Siege of Mastricht , Sept. 5. 1676. Dr. Tillotson's Sermon before the King , Apr. 18. 1675. Dr. Wilkins's Three Sermons before the King , March 7. 1669. and Feb. 7. 1670. Catalogus Librorum Regionibus Transmarinis nuper Editorum . Continuandus est hic Catalogus in singulos Terminos . Octavo . Dr. Jo. Tillotson's Rule of Faith. 1676. Rhetores selecti , Demetrius Phalerius , Tiberius Rhetor , Anonymus Sophista , Severus Alexandrinus Grece & Lat. per Tho. Gale , Soc. Coll. 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Praxis Barbettiana cum notis Fred. Deckeri , 1669. Herls Wisdoms Tripos . Dr. Wilkins Beauty of Providence . ‡ Pharmacopoea Royal , or the Royal Dispensatory , in Three Parts , the First Part the Galenical and Chymical Pharmacopoea ; the Second Part the Galenical Pharmacopoea ; and the Third Part the Chymical Pharmacopoea . Written by M. Charus , Apothecary to the King of France . And now rendred into English . Being now in the Press . Notes, typically marginal, from the original text Notes for div A60582-e1050 The Turks in what qualified sense Barbarous . Their contempt of Learning . Hatred of all other Religions , which is a principle of their Religion , and of their Education . Their behaviour toward Christians . Christians only secure in places of Trade ; yet obnoxious to affronts and abuses , and to be picked up , and made Slaves of , or assaulted . Patience & prudence necessary ; as also the Habit of the Country , when they travel . Their opinion of , and behaviour toward the Jews . Their hatred of the Persian greatest . The proud behaviour of the Turks arising from a false belief of their being Successors of the Greeks and Romans in the Empire . and only in the right way of Religion and Salvation . Musulman . The Prophets of the old Testament laid claim to by them . The Mahometan Religion gross , and brutish . The proof of it lying in their Swords , and in their success . No disputing with them . Most secure in their opinions and belief . Only to be pleased with money and presents . An instance of a generous civility . Circumcision . Their prayers at set times . Friday their day of Religious Convention . Their washings . Called to Prayers by the Priests or their Servants ▪ Their prayers in Arabick , and of what nature . Their publick Service in their Moschs . And the manner of it . Their prostrations . The excessive zeal of some Turks , and hypocrisie of others . Their Fast of Ramazan . The case of sick persons , Travellers , and Children . The Feast of great Bairam . Sacrifice Sheep . The Feast of little Bairam . Their Pilgrimage to Mecca . Their visiting of Jerusalem . Their care of their behaviour upon their return from Mecca . Their other Festivals . The Ministers of their Religion . Mufti . Cadileskires . Mollas . Imam , or Parish-Priest . The great number of Moschs . Sermons . Readers of the Alcoran . Cadyes . Alcoran . Sunna or Tradition . Colledges Professors . Their Allowance . Officers under the Cadyes . Turks pitiful to dumb creatures . Their love of Dogs . The opinion of Fate . The Plague rages among them often . Their reverence of God. Atheists among them . Janizaries . Their Collection . Agiamoglans . The General of the Janizaries . Their pay . Their number . Spahyes . Their number . Orders of Spahyes . Zaims . Voluntiers . Auxiliaries . Tartars . Their valour and the causes of it . Their Slaves . The Grandezza of the Bassas in what it consists . Number of Women-Slaves allowed . Men-Slaves often make escapes . How the Slaves are treated . Arsenal of Constantinople , where the Grand Signiors Slaves are kept . The Seven Towers a Prison for Gentlemen taken in the wars . Slaves in private mens hands Wine forbid to be drank by Mahomet . But notwithstanding this prohibition , the Turks generally debauched with it . Wine forbid by the Emperor to be drank all the Empire over . The concern of the Christian Ambassadors for this severe prohibition . Who remonstrate upon it . Strong waters equally forbid . Turkish Liquors . The common use of Opium among them The chief provision of the Arabian Messengers . Swines-flesh prohibited . Their diet . Their Weddings . How they treat their Women . Their Divorces . In what cases the women may sue for a Divorce . Their kindness to sick persons . Their Funerals . Their burying-places . Their Tombes . Their Oaths . Their respect to the name of Christ . Notes for div A60582-e15630 Surveys of Palestine common . But not of the Seven Churches of Asia . English the first who made solemn visits thither . Occasion of my voyage . The Cady of Smyrna's extraordinary civility . Bay of Smyrna : Menamen . Hermus . Vurlaw . Bay of Elaea . * As appears from Strabo , Geograph . lib. 13. Plain of Pergamus . Caicus . Pergamus . Selinus . Hyllus . Soma . Kirk-agach . Bak-hair . Mader-kuy . Thyatira . Selinte-kuy . Halys . Lacus Gygaeus . Marmora . The plains of Magnesia . Mastusia and Sipylus . Magnesia . Tmolus . Jarosh-kuy . Sardes . Pactolus ; Castle of Sardes . Philadelphia . Tripolis . Maeander . Hierapolis . Lycus ▪ Colosse . Dingilsley . Congeleh . Laodicea . Lycus . Asopus , Caper . Plains of Apamea . Nozli . Teke-kuy . Sultan-Hisar . Tralles . Guzel-Hisar . Magnesia upon the Maeander . Gherme-aule . Island Samos . Ephesus . Diana's Temple . The Labyrinth . St. Paul's prison , or rather a Watch-Tower . Cave of the seven Sleepers . St. John's Church . Smyrna . Meles . Old Castle . Amphitheatre . The sepulchre of St. Polycarp . Janus's Temple . Notes for div A60582-e26990 The advantage of its situation in general . Difficulty of access . Hellespont . Dardanelli . Sestos . Abydus . Bosphorus . Symplegades . Pompey 's pillar . Advantage of situation in respect of trade . Stambol . It s particular site . Chalcedon . Figure of Constantinople . Extent . Situated upon seven hills . Its inconveniences . Ordinary houses . Bassas houses . Walls . It s prospect from the land . Gates ▪ Seraglio . Divan . Caravanserais . Bezesten . Bagnos . Moschs . Sancta Sophia . Suleimania . Achmets Mosch . What common to all the great Moschs . Sepulchral monuments of the Emperors . Of the Mother of Mahomet the great . Of the Bassas and Of Sultan Ejub , where The Grand Signor is inaugurated . The chambers of the Janizaries . Seven Towers . Few ancient monuments left . * 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 as he writes himself in a letter to Euseb . Bishop of Caesarea , V. Theodoriti Hist . Eccl. l. 1. c. 16. Hippodrome . Colossus . Hieroglyphical Pillar . Serpent pillar of brass . The pillar of Constantine . Historical pillar . Ruines of Constantines palace . Aqueducts . Kiosks or summer-houses . Cisterns . Pyrgos . Greecian Churches . Galata . Haven . Pera ▪