GUIDE FOR i MOTOR BOATS — AN D YACHTS GUIDE FOR cTVlOTOR BOATS AND YACHTS » * Compliments of INSURANCE COMPANY OF NORTH AMERICA PHILADELPHIA, PA. Copyright, igii.by Insurance Co. of North America Philadelphia LC Control Number tmp96 026224 ©CLA289229 INDEX PAGE Gasoline 5 The Carburetors 5 The Gasoline Piping 6 The Tank 7 Hints on Ignition Apparatus 7 Helps for Starting a Motor 8 General Information 9 Fire Precautions 11 Don'ts II Sound Signals 13 Signal System to Engineer 13 Distress Signals 13 Night Signaling by Morse Code 14 Boxing the Compass 15 The Watch as a Compass 15 Wind Barometer Indications 16 Buoys 16 Duty to Stand By After Collision 17 When the Boat Overturns 18 Rules for Reviving Persons Rescued from the Water 18 Nautical Terms 19 Knots and Miles 20 Table of Distances 20 Average Rise and Fall of Tide 21 Laws for Preventing Collisions, and to Regulate Equipment of Motor Boats 21 Pilot Rules for the Inland Waters of the Atlantic and Pacific Coasts 24 GASOLINE SPECIFIC GRAVITY Commercial gasoline has a specific gravity of from 0.7 to 0.74. It does not mix with water but floats on it, and spreads indefinitely over the surface. VAPOR Gasoline evaporates rapidly when warm, but very slowly in freezing weather. The vapor (not the liquid) is highly inflammable, and may be ignited by an electric spark, a flame, or red-hot metal. WHEN EXPLOSIVE Mixtures of gasoline vapor and air in the right proportions are explosive. Pure gasoline vapor, on the contrary, will burn only as it finds air. It is the heavy, rapidly-forming vapor, spreading from bow to stern of the boat, that makes gasoline in the bilge so dangerous. The smallest accidental spark, a back-fire, or a lighted match will explode the mixed vapor and air, and set the bilge afire. A gasoline fire cannot be extinguished by playing water on it, but only by the use of chemical extin- guishers, several of which should be handy in every motor boat. THE CARBURETOR Principle — The carburetor is a device for vaporiz- ing liquid gasoline and mingling the vapor with air in explosive proportions. It operates usually on the principle of an atomizer. A stream of air is drawn by the piston suction past a minute nozzle, from which a spray of gasoline is sucked and evap- orated by the rush of air. To maintain a uniform supply of gasoline, a float chamber is interposed between the tank and the spray nozzle. Gasoline enters the float chamber by gravity, and a float valve opens and closes to admit or shut off the supply of gasoline, thereby maintaining a constant level in the float chamber. HEAT REQUIRED Gasoline, like all other liquids, absorbs heat on evaporation. If the air is warm enough to evaporate the gasoline, no added heat is required, otherwise the air must be heated, or heat must be applied to the intake pipe between the carburetor and the en- gine. This heat is usually supplied by a portion of the exhaust gases, which is passed through a jacket surrounding the intake pipe. STARTING When an engine is started cold, an excess of gaso- line is supplied to the carburetor in order that enough may evaporate. This is done by depressing the float to flood the "mixing chamber," or by strangling the air intake, thereby sucking an abnor- mal quantity of gasoline from the spray nozzle. COLD WEATHER In cold weather heat is required to evaporate sufficient gasoline for starting. This is supplied by pouring hot water over the carburetor. Another and simpler expedient is to have on hand a squirt can of sulphuric ether, which is volatile at low temperatures and very inflammable. This ether is squirted into the intake pipe, or into the cylinders themselves, if the latter are provided with relief cocks. SHUT-OFF VALVE As carburetor float valves sometimes leak, a shut- off valve close to the tank is essential. This valve should be so placed that by closing it and discon- necting two or more unions, the gasoline pipe can be taken out bodily in order to clear out stoppages or to repair leaks. THE GASOLINE PIPING Sweated Pipe Joints — All joints (not unions) in the gasoline piping should be sweated solidly to- gether. Mere screw-joints cannot be trusted. PROTECT THE GASOLINE PIPE The gasoline pipe should be fully protected against shifting ballast and careless feet. It may be run either under the floor or along the inner side of the hull, but should be covered throughout its length by a grooved strip of wood or the like. Next to the 6 engine it should have a coil to allow for vibration. On no account should the pipe be left without sup- port at frequent intervals, as this will cause sagging and straining at the ends. THE TANK Installation — The gasoline tank should rest in a drip pan drained outboard above the water line, and this pan should be separated by a water-tight bulk- head from the rest of the boat, so that a leak cannot endanger the latter. The gasoline pipe should be carried through a stuffing box in the bottom or side of the drip pan. Tank and drip pan should be rigidly secured together, to avoid straining the pipe connection at the stuffing box. STRAINER It is very desirable to have a double wire gauze screen inside the filling opening, so that, if gasoline poured from a can should catch fire, the flame will not strike through the gauze to the tank. The same gauze will act as a strainer also. HINTS ON IGNITION APPARATUS The ignition system may be of the make and break or the jump spark type. The former requires only a battery or low tension magneto, a gas lighting coil, and igniters by means of which sparks are pro- duced in the cylinders by making and breaking electric contact at the proper moment inside the cylinders. MAKE AND BREAK SYSTEM The make and break system requires no great care in insulation. The igniters, however, wear rapidly, and their contact points are burned by the sparks. Steel contacts last only a short time and must be frequently filed clean. Occasionally the installation of the fixed sparking point becomes coated with soot from half burned gasoline and oil, and must be cleaned with gasoline and a tooth brush or fine sandpaper. If mica is used, the soot in time collects between the mica leaves and a new insulator is required. Mis-firing in this ignition system may be due to soot on the insulation, to badly burned contact points, or to weak batteries. JUMP SPARK SYSTEM In the jump spark ignition system the low tension current is not delivered directly at the sparking points. Instead, it is carried through an induction coil, in which is induced a current of tension high enough to jump a fixed air gap of one-quarter inch or more. This high tension current is led by heavily insulated cables to spark plugs screwed into the cylinders and having fixed sparking gaps at their inner ends of about one-fiftieth of an inch. The reason for the small gap is that the electrical re- sistance of air is increased considerably by compres- sion. SPARK PLUGS Porcelain is the usual insulating material of spark plugs. It is fragile, therefore extra porcelains should be carried, together with asbestos gaskets for same, and complete spare plugs. The easiest way to de- termine whether or not a plug is defective is to take it out and screw in another. The jump spark ignition system depends for suc- cess on scrupulous insulation of the high tension circuit. A little water, or even moisture, on the spark plugs or the terminals of the cables, or on the distributor, if there be one, will cause leakage of the high tension current. ADJUSTING THE VIBRATORS Where batteries are used with the ordinary type of coils, the vibrators, or tremblers, as they are some- times called, require careful attention to see that the contact points are kept clean and are properly ad- justed. They should be adjusted to make as light a contact as will produce steady vibration. Occasion- ally the platinum contact points should be dressed down with a very fine jeweler's file. There is now to be had a type of battery appa- ratus producing a single spark per explosion with great economy of current. It employs no trembler and is free from the necessity for delicate adjust- ment of that member. HELPS FOR STARTING A MOTOR One of the first things to know is the condition of the spark; test the batteries if you have a meter and if there are any dead cells throw them out. See that the connectors do not touch each other, then try your spark; if you have a one-quarter 8 inch good jump, or if it is make and break, snap the wire on the engine frame, and if the spark shows hot and lively, look further for your trouble. Take out the spark plugs, see that they are clean ; set the points a little less than the thickness of a dime apart; see if the spark jumps across the points when the plug is laid on the cylinder, then insert a piece of mica or a good thick card between the points, and if the spark goes around it, the plug is all right, but if it disappears, the plug is leaking somewhere and it is worthless. If it is make and break, the ignition points may be corroded ; frequently there is a plug in the side of the cylinder which, when it is taken out allows one to see the sparker in action, but beware of this hole, for if there is any gas in the cylinder, the resulting explosion is liable to send out a stream of fire into the investigator's face. Other makes have removable igniters, and on some it is necessary to remove the cylinder head to see the spark. The moving parts must all move freely with no catching or binding, as their successful action de- pends upon their breaking the circuit instantane- ously ; if there is any hang or slow action, the re- sulting spark will be weak and poor. GENERAL INFORMATION When using acetylene lamps in a fog it will be found best to tie a white handkerchief over the front of the lamp, both for seeing and to be seen. If a nut is from any cause so fixed that it becomes difficult to get it off, a little gasoline or kerosene squirted over it will sometimes help it. Failing in this, heat must be applied. Attention cannot too often be called to novices in motor matters tO be extremely careful that the ignition lever is retarded before they attempt to start the motor. Otherwise the nasty blow from a backfire may be experienced. Black smoke issuing from the muffler pipe may be taken as an indication that much too rich a mix- ture is being fed to the motor. Blue smoke indicates a surplus of lubricating oil. White smoke usually occurs only when overflow water is passed through the muffler to any appreciable amount, forming a steam. When your motor suddenly stops, if you find no electrical trouble and when you attempt to start a "kick" occurs with the spark lever properly retarded, it is probable that there is some trouble with the commutator or timing gear. The connection of the timer shaft to its driving member may have slipped or broken, causing the contact to occur at an im- proper time. USEFUL HINTS Couplings — When a motor is new, watch the coup- lings of the exhaust pipe very carefully. They are apt to work loose at first owing to the expansion of the exhaust pipe when hot and its subsequent cooling. Occasionally tighten the couplings with a wrench and this will soon set them, after which they should require no further attention. Insulation of Wire Terminals — A good varnish is had by dissolving some ordinary red sealing wax in gasoline, adding a few drops of linseed oil. Shake well, with the cork out, the bottle containing this mixture. When you find the varnish reduced itself to a working consistency, replace the cork. Filling Gasoline Tanks — In replenishing gasoline, do so with a funnel, fitted with fine gauze. As an additional precaution it is wise to place a piece of chamois over the top of the funnel, as this not only prevents impurities passing, but will also stop any water which may be present in the gasoline. How to Remove Grease Spots before Painting — Wash over smoky or greasy parts with saltpetre or very thin lime whitewash. If soapsuds are used, they must be washed off thoroughly, as they pre- vent the paint from drying hard. To Remove Rust from Steel — Rub the steel with sweet oil ; in a day or two rub with finely powdered unslacked lime until the rust all disappears; then oil again, roll in a woolen cloth and put in a dry place, especially if it be table cutlery. Bronze may be Renovated and recolored by mix- ing one part of muriatic acid and two parts of water ; free the article from all grease and dirt and apply the diluted acid with a cloth; when dry, polish with sweet oil. For Waterproofing Canvas — In covering boats for the winter, or in making canvas covers for engines of open boats, it is usually desirable to treat the canvas in some way to make it waterproof. There are a number of ways to do this. Some owners paint the canvas, others treat it with a coating of boiled linseed oil, and there are numerous other com- positions that give more or less satisfaction. The following formula should make an absolutely water- 10 proof coating: Get a small ten cent bottle of rubber cement, such as is used for patching rubber boots, etc., and dissolve it in a pint jar filled nearly- full of gasoline, shaking the bottle well until dis- solved. Apply this on one side of the canvas with a paint brush, brushing in evenly, and let it dry thoroughly in the sun. This will leave the duck soft and pliable, doing away with the stiffness insep- arable from paint or linseed oil ; and while it may discolor slightly with the weather, it makes a good waterproof coating. FIRE PRECAUTIONS One of the greatest dangers of a motor boat is fire, and you cannot be too careful in trying to prevent such a calamity. Get in the habit of using nothing but safety matches. Often a boat has been burned to the water's edge by throwing a lighted match into the bilge. Keep your bilge as dry as possible, and don't try to see whether it is gasoline or water in it by strik- ing a match. In employing this method you may never find out, but your friends will. Always clean up your boat before leaving it, and be sure there is no waste lying around the boat. Fires have often been started by the sun's rays being focused through a cabin window or from a piece of tin on to some oily waste or rags. Spontaneous combustion often arises from oily waste or rags. It is cheaper to throw them away after using than to have a fire. There are no specific means of promptly and effectually extinguishing burning gasoline. Besides the usual fire extinguishers, suitable chemical, or bags of coarse flour or sand will serve the purpose. DON'TS Don't expect your engine to run without oil. Don't use a dirty stick to measure the depth of gasoline in tank. Don't set sail without measuring the fuel on hand, noting your stocks of oil and grease, and satisfying yourself that the battery will get you home. Don't forget to strain the gasoline; the engine won't run on water or dirt. II Don*t hunt for a gasoline leak with matches. Have an electric flashlight; the kind with long flexible cord, that attaches to battery, is best. Don't forget to include a battery tester, set of spark plugs, and several yards of spare insulated wire in your equipment. Don't forget to shut off the gasoline at the end of every run. You never know when the carburetor float valve may start leaking. Don't neglect a carburetor leak; it's more danger- ous aboard a boat than gunpowder. Don't conclude that the carburetor adjustment is wrong if the engine does not start on the first turn. You may have forgotteir to close the switch or open the shut-off valve at the tank. Don't use the same measures or funnels for gaso- line that you have been using for lubricating oil, kerosene or water. Don't fill acetylene gas lamps with carbide until they are to be used, as carbide is very susceptible to moisture and slacks rapidly on exposure to air. Don't monkey with the carburetor adjustments ever before the engine starts. If the engine has run once with a certain adjustment and fuel it will do so again. Hunt for the trouble elsewhere. If a cold day, try hot water on the carburetor. If a hot day, try less priming — you may have a mix- ture too rich to Ignite. Don't forget that the way to adjust a carburetor is to get the engine started first, and then change only one adjustment at a time, very slightly, and note its effect on the engine. Don't festoon the ignition wiring all over the bat- tery engine, and all that lies between. Prove your intelligence by making a ship-shape job. Good insulation, snug connections, coils where flexibility is needed, and proper support, all play a part. Don't wait until you have used your last fresh spark plug before cleaning the sooted ones. Don't wait until the pump chokes up before you learn how to take out and clean the valves. Don't try to pump bilge water through the circu- lating pump. 12 SOUND SIGNALS — Short Blast : One second. — Long Blast : Three seconds. : I am directing my course to starboard. : I am directing my course to port. : My engines are going full astern. : You are standing into danger. : I want assistance; remain by me. — : Your lights are out or want trimming. SIGNAL SYSTEM TO ENGINEER 1. When engine is stopped, one bell means ahead slow. 2. When running ahead slow, jingle means full speed ahead. 3. When running full speed ahead, one bell means slow down. 4. When running ahead slow, one bell means stop. 5. When, stopped, two bells mean astern slow. 6. WJien running astern slow, jinglp .'mea^s t-ull speed astern. 7. When running astern slow or at full speed, one bell means stop. 8. When running full speed ahead, four bells mean astern. 9. With jingle, full speed astern. When no jingle bell is provided the following sig- nals will suffice: 1. When stopped, one bell means ahead. 2. When running ahead, one bell means stop. 3. When stopped, two bells mean astern. 4. When running astern, one bell means stop. 5. When running ahead, four bells mean astern. DISTRESS SIGNALS Skyrockets and Coston Signals should be carried for emergency use in case of accident or distress. At least a dozen good skyrockets should be carried aboard. These should be wrapped in oiled silk and kept in a waterproof case. Coston Signals burn different colored lights in succession. An unlimited combination of colors can be effected and distinguish- 13 ing signals produced. The use of these signals is regulated by the government and individual ships and companies are allotted their private signal. A book containing a list of these signals should be kept aboard. Every yacht club applying for the same is allotted by the government a distinguishing Coston signal. These are not necessarily used for distress signals, but are often used for reporting position or arrival at night. Several of these sig- nals should be carried aboard and kept dry with the skyrockets. NIGHT SIGNALING BY MORSE CODE The attention of Masters and Pilots of vessels is drawn to the great facilities afforded for communi- cating at night time with Signal Stations by Morse Lamp ; but there are certain points which should be carefully borne in mind when signaling, so that signals may be clearly read at the Reporting Station. 1. All other lights in the vicinity of the Flashing Lamp should be obscured. 2. The Flashing Lamp should be kept continually pointed directly towards the Station. 3. Care should be taken that proper regularity is observed in the lengths of flashes and spaces, and that the spaces between the words are considerably longer than those between the letters. 4. Vessels should, if possible, avoid coming within the rays of a Light-house while signaling. 5. When **Morsing" a vessel's name, it is desirable that the name should be spelled in full. 6. If you have not a flash light aboard, the same effect can be procured by moving a piece of card- board up and down in front of an ordinary lamp, or using a whistle. The Morse Code of signals and signal characters universally adopted is as follows : Indicates a Long flash of about 3 seconds' duration. — Indicates a Short flash of about i second duration. Preparative signal to attract attention, , etc. Answering signal, or I understand, — — , etc. Interval between each flash or sound. . . o . . .1 second Interval between each letter 3 seconds Interval between each word or group 6 seconds 14 The Letters are Indicated as Follows: A N B- O C— P D Q E — R — G T — H U I V J W K X L Y M Z — BOXING THE COMPASS Every yacht, no matter how small or how confined the waters in which she sails, should have a mari- ner's compass on board. The compass should be placed as far as possible from the motor or any iron work on the boat. Inside the bowl of the compass will be found a vertical line called the 'iubber line." This, with the centre of the card, indicates the boat's longitudinal centre line. The "lubber line" should be toward the bow, then the points on the compass card will indicate the direc- tion the boat is pointing. The names of the "points" reading in the direc- tion the hands of a watch move are as follows : NORTH, North by East, North-Northeast, North- east by North, Northeast, Northeast by East, East- Northeast, East by North. EAST, East by South, East-Southeast, Southeast by East, Southeast, South- east by South, South-Southeast, South by East, SOUTH, South by West, South-Southwest, South- west by South, Southwest, Southwest by West, West- Southwest, West by South. WEST, West by North, West-Northwest, Northwest by West, Northwest, Northwest by North, North-Northwest, North by West, North. The above is called "Boxing the Compass." THE WATCH AS A COMPASS The points of the compass may be determined with the aid of an ordinary watch. It is simply neces- sary to bring the watch in a position so that the hour hand is directed toward the sun. The south then lies exactly midway between whatever hour it may happen to be and the numeral XII on the dial. IS Let us suppose, for instance, that it is four o'clock, and that the timepiece is held in the position indi- cated. The direction of the numeral II will then be the exact south. If it be eight o'clock, the numeral X will indicate the exact southerly point. WIND-BAROMETER INDICATIONS When the wind sets in from points between south and southeast and the barometer falls steadily a storm is approaching from the west or northwest, and its centre will pass near or north of the observer within 12 to 24 hours with wind shifting to northwest by way of southwest and west. When the wind sets in from points between east and northeast and the baro- meter falls steadily a storm is approaching from the south or southwest, and its centre will pass near or to the south or east of the observer within 12 to 24 hours with wind shifting to northwest by way of north. The rapidity of the storm's approach and its intensity will be indicated by the rate and the amount of the fall in the barometer. ABOUT BUOYS The following system of buoyage as adopted by the United States in waters under Government sur- vey, should be familiar to every owner of a motor boat. Too much reliance should not be placed upon the light draught of motor boats. Sometimes the obstructions at low water are awash, or nearly so, and the difference between going upon the right side of a buoy or upon the wrong side may mean the safety or loss of your boat. Red Buoys — In approaching a channel from sea- ward, red buoys, with even numbers, will be found on the starboard side of the channel, and must be left on the starboard hand in passing in. Black Buoys — Black buoys, with odd numbers, will be found on the port side of the channel, and must be left on the port hand in passing in. Red and Black Horizontal Striped Buoys — Buoys painted with red and black horizontal stripes will be found on obstructions, with channel-ways on either side of them, and may be left on either hand in passing in. White and Black Perpendicular Striped Buoys- Buoys painted with white and black perpendicular stripes will be found in mid-channel and must be passed close-to to avoid danger. 16 All other distinguishing marks to buoys will be in addition to the foregoing, and may be employed to mark particular spots. Perches, with Balls, Cages, etc. — Perches, with balls, cages, etc., will, when placed on buoys, be at turning points, the color and number indicating on what side they shall be passed. Different channels in the same bay, sound, river or harbor, will be marked, as far as practicable, by different descriptions of buoys. Principal channels will be marked by nun buoys; secondary channels by can buoys, and minor channels by spar buoys. When there is but one channel, nun buoys, properly colored and numbered, are usually placed on the star- board side, and can buoys on the port side of it. Day beacons, stakes, and spindles (except such as are on the sides of channels, which will be colored like buoys) are constructed and distinguished with special reference to each locality, and particularly in regard to the background upon which they are pro- jected. Motor boat men should study this code. DUTY TO STAY BY AFTER COLLISION An Act in Regard to Collision at Sea. Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Repre- sentatives of the United States of America in Con- gress assembled. That in every case of collision be- tween two vessels it shall be the duty of the master or person in charge of each vessel, if and so far as he can do so without serious danger to his own vessel, crew and passengers (if any), to stay by the other vessel until he has ascertained that she has no need of further assistance, and to render to the other vessel, her master, crew and passengers (if any) such assistance as may be practicable and as may be necessary in order to save them from any danger caused by the collision, and also to give the master or person in charge of the other vessel the name of his own vessel and her port of registry, or the port or place to which she belongs, and also the name of the ports and places from which and to which she is bound. If he fails so to do, and no reasonable cause for such failure is shown, the col- lision shall, in the absence of proof to the contrary, be deemed to have been caused by his wrongful act, neglect, or default. Sec. 2. That every master or person in charge of a United States vessel who fails, without reasonable 17 cause, to render such assistance or give such in- formation as aforesaid shall be deemed guilty of a misdemeanor, and shall be liable to a penalty of one thousand dollars, or imprisonment for a term not exceeding two years; and for the above sum the vessel shall be liable and may be seized and pro- ceeded against by process in any District Court of the United States by any person; one-half such sum to be payable to the informer and the other half to the United States. Sec. 3. That this act shall take effect at a time to be fixed by the President by Proclamation issued for the purpose. Approved September 4, 1890. To take effect on December 15, 1890. WHEN THE BOAT OVERTURNS Don't go out in a pleasure boat without being assured that there are life-saving buoys or cushions aboard sufficient to float all on board in case of an upset or collision. All persons should be seated before leaving shore, and no one should attempt to exchange seats in mid-stream or to put a foot on the edge or gunwale of the boat to exchange seats. Where the waters become rough from a sudden squall or passing steamers, never rise in the boat, but settle down as close to the bottom as possible, and keep cool until the rocking danger is passed. If overturned, a woman's skirts, if held out by her extended arms, while she uses her feet as if climbing stairs, will often hold her up while a boat may pull out from the shore and save her. A non-swimmer, by drawing his arms up to his side and pushing down with widely-extended hands, while treading water with his feet, may hold himself up several minutes, often when a single minute means a life ; or throwing out the arms, dog fashion, forward, overhand and pulling in, as if reaching for some- thing — that may bring him in reach of help. RULES FOR REVIVING PERSONS RESCUED FROM THE WATER I. Loosen the clothing; place the face downward, with the forehead resting on one of the wrists, and the face turned to one side. Open the mouth; seize the tongue between the fingers, covered with a piece of cloth, and draw it forward between the teeth; clear the mouth and throat from mucus by pass- ing the forefinger, covered with a handkerchief or 18 piece of cloth, far back into the mouth, thus open- ing a free passage to the windpipe. 2. Turn the body face upward, shoulders resting on a folded coat or pillow ; keep the tongue drawn forward ; raise the arms backward and upward to the sides of the head (this expands the chest and allows the air to enter the lungs), then slowly move them downward, bending them so that the elbows will come to the sides and the hands across on the pit of the stomach, and press them gently but strongly against the sides and chest (this forces the air out of the lungs). Continue these two move- ments (which produce artificial breathing) very de- liberately about ten or twelve times in a minute, and without ceasing, until the patient breathes naturally, or until satisfied that life is extinct. 3. While this is being done a little friction on the chest may be produced by rubbing gently with a warm flannel, and the body may be stripped and wrapped in dry blankets. After natural breathing begins, continue very gently, for a few minutes, the two movements which produced artificial breathing. After natural breathing is fully restored, give the patient a teaspoonful of brandy, hot sling or tea, two or three times a minute until the beating of the pulse can be felt at the wrist. Rub the arms and legs upward, and the feet and hands with a warm or dry flannel. Apply hot cloths to the body, legs and arms, and bottles of hot water to the feet. Do not be discouraged if animation does not re- turn in a few minutes. The patient sometimes recovers after hours of labor. Do not allow the tongue to fall back and close the windpipe while the arms are being worked. Do not rub the legs and arms until natural breath- ing is restored. Do not put any liquid in the mouth until natural breathing is fully restored. Do not roll the body or handle it roughly. Do not allow the head to hang down. NAUTICAL TERMS The bow is the extreme forward part of the ship. The stern is the after part. Foreward is the fore part of the vessel. Aft is the rear part. Amid- ships is the central part of the vessel. Starboard is the right side of a ship, looking forward. Port is the left side. 19 KNOTS AND MILES The statute mile is 5280 feet. The British Admiralty knot or nautical mile is 6080 feet. The statute knot is 6082.66 feet, and is generally considered the standard. The method of computing the number of feet in a statute knot is as follows : The circumference of the earth is divided into 360 degrees, each degree containing" 60 knots or (360 X 60). 21,600 knots to the circumference, 21,600 divided into 131,385,546 — the number of feet in the earth's circumference — gives 6082.66 feet — the length of a statute knot. Knots Miles I 1,151 2 2,303 3 3,454 4 4,606 5 5,757 10 11,515 20 23,030 25 28,787 TABLE OF DISTANCES Nautical Miles C/5 ^ C3 P^ r^ & s t: § g CO 4-> U s a ^ ^ tfl t: u ■M rt (U