A MOST DELECTABLE AND TRUE DIScourse, of an admired and painful Peregrination from Scotland, to the most famous Kingdoms in Europe, Asia and Africa.  
WITH The particular Descriptions (more exactly set down then hath been heretofore in English) of Italy, Sycilia, Dalmatia, Ilyria, Epire, Peloponnesus, Macedonia, Thessalia, and the whole Continent of Greece, Creta, Rhodes, the Isles Cyclades, with all the islands in the jonean, Aegean, and Adriatic Seas, Thracia, the renowned City Constantinople, Colchis, Bythinia, and the black Sea, Troy, Phrygia, and the chiefest Countries of Asia Minor.  
FROM THENCE, To Cyprus, Phoenicia, Syria, Mesopotamia, Arabia Petrea, and the Desert of Egypt, the Red Sea, Grand Cayro, the whole Province of Canaan, the Lake of Sodom and Gomorrha, the famous Rivers, Nilus, Euphrates, and jordan, and the sacred City jerusalem, etc.  
Coelum non Animum.  
The second Impression, Corrected and enlarged by the Author WILLIAM LITHGOW.  
LONDON, Printed by Nicholas Okes, and are to be sold by Thomas Archer, at his Shop in Pope's head Palace. 1616   

To all Noble-minded Gentlemen, and Heroic Spirits in Court, City, and Country.  
COurteous Reader, of these my double pains of a twofold Pilgrimage: first, in my personal progress, to these famous places; and next, a second Peregrination of mind, in reviewing the same in the Map of my own Memory. I have, for thy more easy understanding, divided them in six several parts: Accept them therefore with the same love that I offer them to thee, since they cost thee nothing but the Reading, how dear soever they are to me. I could have furnished this History with more new-coind Language, but I detest the ornament of such an ecclypsed shadow, that would obumbrate the beams of a glorious Subject: Let other fantastical brains dote, and prosecute the path of smooth invented phrases, and new devised dirivations; to soar aloft with the waxed feathers of flitghthered eloquence, wanting matter, which is the heart of the work: I have in my own disposition, and for thy better satisfaction (Gentle Reader) set down the same in the vulgar tongue of this Northern I'll; Protesting, if (peradventure) I find thy kind acceptance, I shall produce to thy eyes, the second Lamp of this new light, which shall sh●w thee the distance of miles from place to place, and the value of money in every Kingdom, Dukedom, Republic, Territory, or Island, wheresoever I have been; with the particular narration of the great Tributes and Charges a Traveller must defray in such a voyage; which for the present I have abridged, and partly omitted, for divers weighty causes. As for these gnawing worms, which carp the merits of braver Spirits, and contemn that virtue in others, that they cannot attain unto themselves, I crave they would forbear their sinistruous censure, until such time, that by their own industry, they achieve the like attempts: Wishing such like vomiters of venom no greater punishment, then to be plagued with the experience of that which I sustained in my Travails.  
Thine as thou merits, W. Lithgow.   

To my dear friend, Countryman and Condisciple, WILLIAM LITHGOW.  

REst Noble Spirits in your Native Soils,  
Whose highbred thoughts on dear-bought fights are bend;  
Renowned LITHGOW by his brave attempt  
Hath eased your bodies of a world of toils.   

Not like to some, who wrongfully retain  
God's rarest gifts within themselves engrossed,  
But what thou hast attained with care and cost,  
Thou yield'st it gratis to the world again.   

Upon the banks of wonder-breeding Clide,  
To these designs thy heart did first assent;  
One way, indeed, to give thyself content,  
But more to satisfy a world beside.   

Thy first attempt in excellence of worth,  
Beyond the reach of my conceits confined,  
But this thy second pilgrimage of mind,  
Where all thy pains are to the world set forth  
In Subject, Frame, in Method, Phrase, and Style,  
May match the most unmacthed in this I'll:  
But this renowns thee most, t'have still possessed  
A constant heart within a wandering breast.   
ROBERT ALLEN.   

To his most affectionate friend, W. Lithgow.  
NO Arabs, Turks, Moors, Saracens, nor strangers,  
Woods, Wilderness, and dark vmbrag'ous caves,  
No Serpents, Beasts, nor cruel fatal dangers,  
Nor sad regrates of ghostly groaning graves,  
Could thee affright, dissuade, disturb, annoy  
To venture life to win a world of joy.  
This Work, which pompe-expecting eyes may feed▪  
To us, and Thee, shall perfect pleasure breed.  
W. A.   

A Dire made by the Pilgrim in the I'll Nigroponti, when he was constrained by greeks to keep Sentinel six days (according to the times) who then stood in fear of two Turkish Galleys.  
Carmina secessum scribentis, & otia quaerunt  
Me mare, me venti, me fera iactat hyems.  
I Wander in exile,  
As though my Pilgrimage  
Were sweet Comedian Scenes of love  
Upon a golden Stage.  
Ah I, poor I, distressed,  
Oft changing to and fro,  
And forced to sing sad Obsequies  
Of this my Swanlike woe.  
A vagabonding Guest,  
Transported here and there,  
Led with the mercy-wanting winds  
Of fear, grief, and despair.  
Thus ever-moving I,  
To restless journeys thralled,  
Obtains by Times triumphing frowns,  
A calling vnrecaled:  
Was I praeordained so,  
Like Tholos Ghost to stand,  
Three times four hours in twenty four,  
With Musket in my hand.  
Ore-blasted with the storms  
Of Winter-beating snow,  
And frosty-poynted hailstones hard  
On me poor wretch to blow.  
No Architecture lo  
But whirling-windy Skies,  
Ore-seeled with thundering claps of clouds,  
Earth's centre to surprise.  
ay, I, it is my fate,  
allotteth this fatal Cross,  
And reckons up in Characters  
The time of my times loss.  
My destiny is such,  
Which doth predestine me  
To be a mirror of mis-haps,  
A Map of Misery.  
Extremely do I live,  
Extremes are all my joy  
I find in deep extremities,  
Extremes extreme annoy.  
Now all alone I watch  
With Argoes eyes and wit.  
A cipher twixt the greeks and Turks  
Upon this rock I sit.  
A constrained Captive I,  
'mongst incompassionate greeks,  
Bareheaded downward bows my head,  
And liberty still seeks.  
But all my suits are vain,  
Heaven sees my woeful state:  
And makes me say, My world's eyesight  
Is bought at too high rate.  
Would God I might but live  
To see my native soil:  
Thrice happy in my wish,  
To end my endless toil:  
Yet still when I record  
The pleasant banks of Clide,  
Where Orchards, Castles, Towns, and Woods,  
Are planted by his side.  
And chiefly Lanerke thou   


the latter Age. Philosophers, Poets, Historiographers, and learned Divines, how they have peregrinated to know the life of States, and the fashions of far Countries would be an endless task for me to relate. Many (I confess) long to see the remotest regions of the earth, but dare not undertake the dangers of sight, the chargeable expenses of tributary journey, the hard endurance of flintstones for a soft featherbed, the extremities of thirst, nor the parching heat of the Sun, hunger in the belly, nor the moist distilling dew to be a humid coverlet to their tender skin, with innumerable other ensuing miseries. But Ixion-like, mistaking juno, would by a mere imagination, run out the sleeping course of an endless peregrination. For my part, what I have reaped, is by a deere-bought knowledge, as it were, a small contentment, in a never contenting subject, a bitter pleasant taste of a sweet-seasoned sour, and all in all, what I found was more than ordinaray rejoicing, in an extraordinary sorrow of delights. The contemplation of this delightful and painful pilgrimage, did incite my mind to adventure upon my meditated attempts; not only for my own contentment, but also to animate other forward spirits to the like resolute designs. The commodity of which being by me duly pondered and weighed (as it were) in the balance of my own contemplating thoughts, from Paris, Anno Domini 1610. I attempted my voyage, bequeathing my proceedings to the protection of God, my body to turmoiling pains, my hands to the Burdon, and my feet to the hard bruising way: And as unwilling to make relation of my passing through France, Savoy, the Ligurian Alps, and almost all Italy, sith it is manifested unto many in this Island both by sight and report, I would shun, so far as possible I can, all prolixity of known, and therefore unnecessary discourse. Upon the 40 day after my departure from Paris, I arrived at Rome, of which I will memorise some rarest things, 
 & so proceed. This City of Rome, now extant, is not that old Rome which Romulus founded, for after the Monarchy of the Romans had attained to the full height, the Goths, a base and unknown people, displaying their banner against this glorious and imperial City,, in the end razed, and subverted their Palaces, equalizing the Walls with the ground. After the which detriment and overthrow (the late subdued Romans recovering their ruinous habitation) were enforced to withdraw the situation of the Town a little more downward, near the banks of Tiber: And transported the stones of these ransacked buildings, to re-edify their new dwelling places.  
Hic ubi nunc Roma est, olim fuit ardua silva,  
Tantaque res paucis, pascua bobus erat.  
Many have wrote of the singularities of old Rome, and I will also receipt some decayed Monuments thereof, which I have seen: The special object of antiquity I saw, being never a whit decayed to this day, is the Templum omnium Deorum, but now, omnium Sanctorum, builded in a rotundo, and open at the top, with a large round, like to the queire of the holy grave. A pretty way from this, are the remainants of that ancient amphitheatre beautified with great Columns, of a wonderful bigness and height; the reason why it was devised, the Ghosts of the slaughtered Sabines may testify. To be brief, I saw the decayed house of worthy Cicero, the high Capitol, the Palace of cruel Nero, 
Monuments of Antiquity.  the Statues of Marcus Aurelius, Alexander and his horse Bucephalus. The green Hill like unto mount Cavallo, that was made of the Pottars shards at one time, which brought the tributary gold to this imperial seat, the seven Hills whereon she stands, and their seven Pyramids, the Castle S. Angelo, which Adrian first founded, and their doubtful transported Relics from jerusalem, with many other things I diligently remarked, some whereof were frivolous, some ambiguous, and some famous. Besides all these, I saw one most sight-worthy-spectacle, which was the Library of the ancient Romans, being licentiated to enter with two Gentlemen, sir William Kerre, and james Aughtermuty my Countrymen; where, when I was come, I beheld a world of old books, the first whereof was an infinite number of Greek Bibles, subscribed with the hands of these Fathers, who (as they say) translated them out of the Hebrew tongue.  
I saw also the Academies of Aristotle, wherein he treateth of the Soul, Health, Life, Nature, and Qualities of Men, with the Medicaments of Galen for the diseases and infirmities of man: the familiar Epistles of Cicero, the Aeneidos of Virgil, the Saphick verses of that Lesbian Sappho, the works of Ovid, 
Famous Authors.  Pliny, Plutarch, Titus Livius, Horatius, Strabo, Plato, Homer, Terentius, Cato, Hypocrates, josephus, Pythagoras, Diodorus Siculus, Eusebius, Saint Augustine, Saint Ambrose, Saint Cyprian, Saint Gregory, and likewise the works of other excellent Philosophers, Divines, and Poets: all wrote with their own hands, and sealed with their own names, and manual subscriptions. I saw also the form of the first ancient writing, which was upon leaves of trees, cakes of lead, with their fingers on ashes, barks of trees, with strange figures, and unknown letters, that was brought from Egypt: for the Egyptians first devised the use thereof, and the sight of infinite obligatory writings, of Emperors, Kings, and Princes, which I omit to relate, referring the same to be registered by the next beholder.  
Bidding adieu to my Company, and this Library, I longed to view the gorgeous, Mosaical work of Saint Peter's Church: The matter was no sooner conceived, but I went to the door, yet afraid to enter, because I was not accustomed with the carriage and ceremonies of such a Sanctum Sanctorum. But at the last, abandoning all scrupolositie, I came in boldly, and on my right hand as I entered within the door, 
The brazen Image of S. Peter.  I espied the portrayed Image of Saint Peter, erected of pure brass, and sitting on a brazen Chair. The fashion of the people is this, entering the Church, they go strait to this Idol, and saluting with many crosses his senseless body, kiss his feet, and every one of his several toes: next, they lay their heads under the sole of his right foot; and arising, rub their Beads on his hard costed belly: thus adoring that breathless mass of metal, more than though it were a living creature. O wonderful and strange spectacle! that these only titular Christians, should become worse of knowledge then Ethnic Pagans, to worship and reverence the workmanship of men's hands. Woe and shame be unto you all blind heretical Papists, why should you make to yourselves Idols and Images of Iron, Silver, Gold, Steel, Brass, Stone, Earth and Tree; and notwithstanding would excuse the matter with a superstitious reason, aledging, you do it only in remembrance, where otherwise it is a damnable sign of wilful obdurate ignorance. May not the prohibition of the second Commandment of God's law, confound the error of this idolatry, engrafted in your hardened hearts.  
What virtue can be in a lump of Brass? or what comfort in the devices of Handy-craftsmen? Alas, nothing but eternal sorrow and condemnation. This was one of the lamentable errors I saw in the Romane-Sea, amongst many other thousands. When the foolish Listranes or Licaoneans would have sacrificed Bulls to the honour of Paul and Barnabas, 
Superstition of Papists.  they rend their clothes, and ran in among the people, crying, and saying; O men why do ye these things? we are even men subject to the like passions that you be: How is it then, that the Apostles being alive, would have no acknowledging by any homage of man; yet when they are dead, the Romanists will worship their counterfeit similitude, in stone, or tree. What unworthy-fained traditions, and superstitious Idolatry? what strange new devising tricks they use, to plant idle monasterial Loiterers? How many manner of ways these Belly-minded slaves Epicure-like lead their lives? And what a Sea of abominable villainy they swim into, practising even unnatural vices, I mean of their wrongfully called Religious Bishops, Priests, Friars, Curates, and all the hypocritical crew, of these perverse jebusites; no heart can express, nor the most eloquent tongue, can sufficiently unfold. But for fear of excommunication, from that Antichristian Courtesan, I dare not persever longer herein: Although I can, yea, and so truly bewray their all-corrupted estate, that I need no information of any Romane-novice-traveller. Of whose sight and experience, would God all the Papists in Britain had the like eie-witnessing approbation as I have had, I am certainly persuaded, with tears and sighs, they would heavily bemoan the terrible fall of that Babylonian whore, which (in a profane estimation) is their holy mother Church. For I sincerely swear to thee, O faithful Christian (as the Italian usually doth in his humours) by the golden-tripled crown of my ghostly father, Paulo Papa Quinto, whatsoever, sacrilege, incest, or villainy a Papist committeth; let him come here, and fill the bribing hands of the Simoniacal Mineons, of the thrice-crowned Priest, (for Roma non captat ovem sine lana.) And he shall have Indulgences, Dispensations, adjoined penances, or absolved Offences, for hundreds, thousands, less or more years. The period of Time, after eight and twenty days abode, wishing my departure, I hardly escaped from the hunting of these bloodsucking Inquisitors, of whom the most part were mine own Countrymen: for I may justly affirm it, man hath no worse enemy, than his own supposed friend. And the Italian saith in his Proverb: God keep me from the hurt of my friends, for I know well how to keep my from mine enemies. From thence bound Eastward, I visited Naples, the commendation of which, I only revolve in this verse; 
Inclyta Parthenope gignit Comitesque Ducesque   
Among many other remarkable things, near to this City (as Lacus Avernus, Sibilla's Cave, Purcoli; the Sulphurean Mountain, Capua and Cuma, where banished Aeneas from Troy, and Carthage arrived) I saw the Monument of Virgil's burial, and affixed these lines thereupon; 
In Mantua from mother's womb,  
I first conceived breath;  
Parthenope reserves the Tomb,  
My Sepulchre of Death.   
In the mean while, having always a regard, of my hasty dispatching from Christendom, I returned, addressing myself to Venice for transportation. But by your leave, let me lay down before your eyes, some notable illusions of Madonna di Loretta, which I found in my wayfaring journey, to amplify my former Discourse, concerning the errors of the Roman Church, and as yet was never Englished in our Language.  
Before I came near to Loretta, by ten miles, I overtook a Caroche, wherein were two Gentlemen of Rome, and their two Concubines; Who, when they espied me, saluted me kindly, inquiring of what Nation I was, whither I was bound, and what pleasure I had to travel alone? After I had to these demands given satisfaction, they entreated me to come up in the Caroche, but I thankfully refused, and would not, replying the way was fair, the weather seasonable, and my body unwearied. At last they perceiving my absolute refusal, presently dismounted on the ground, 
Four Roman Pilgrims.  to recreate themselves in my company: and incontinently, the two young unmarried Dames, came forth also, and would by no persuasion of me, nor their familiars, mount again; Saying, they were all Pilgrims, and bound to Loretta (for devotions sake) in pilgrimage, and for the penance enjoined to them by their Father Confessor. Truly, so far as I could judge, their penance was small, being carried with horses, and the appearance of devotion much less: for lodging at Riginati, after supper, each youth led captive his dearest Darling to an unsanctified Bed, and left me to my accustomed repose.  
When the morning Star appeared, we embraced the way marching towards Loretta, and these Uermilion Nymphs, to let me understand they traveled with a cheerful stomach, would oft run races, s●ipping like wanton Lambs on grassy Mountains, and quenching their follies in a Sea of unquenchable fantasies. Approaching near the gate of the village, they pulled off their shoes and stockings, walking barefooted through the streets, to this ten thousand times polluted Chapel, mumbling Pater Nosters, and ave Maria's on their beads. When they entered into the Church, wherein the Chapel standeth, I stood at the entry beholding many hundreds of barefooted blinded bodies, creeping on their knees and hands: Thinking themselves not worthy to go on foot, to this idly supposed Nazaretane House, like to this saying; 
Lauretum nudis pedibus, plebs crebra frequentat,  
Quam movet interius religionis amor.   
Unto this falsely patronized Chapel, they offer yearly many rich gifts, amounting to an unspeakable value, as Chains, and Rings of Gold and Silver, Rubies, Diamonds, silken Tapestries, and such like. The jesuitical and Penitential Fathers, receive all, but who so enjoy all, let Camera reverenda Romana, grant certification to this Lorettan avariciousnesse, who fill their coffers twice in the year therewith. My four Pilgrims, having performed their ceremonial customs, came back laughing, and asked why I did not enter? But I, as unwilling to show them any further reason, demanded what the matter was? O (said the Italians) jurando per il Cielo è Iddio Sacratissimo; This is the house wherein the Virgin Mary dwelled in Galilee: And to the confirmation of these words showed me a Book, out of which I extracted these Annotations.  

Damnable illusions of Loretta.  This Chapel, they hold it to be the house, in which Mary was annunced by Gabriel, and wherein she conceived jesus, by operation of the Holy Ghost. And in the meantime, that devotion waxed scant, amongst the Christians of the Primitive Church in the holy Land; Many strangers tyrannising over the Territories of Canaan, as Heraclius, Costroes' King of Persia, Saracens, and Harancone King of Egypt; it came to pass in the year of our Lord, one thousand two hundred four score and eleven years, and in the time of Pope Nicholas the fourth, that it being shaken off the foundation, 
A false Assertion.  was transported miraculously by Angels in the night, from Nazareth in Galilee, to Torsalto in Slavonia. And in the morning, Shepherds coming to the place of pastorage, found this house, wherewith being astonished, they returned in haste, and told S. George Allesandro, the Prior of Torsalto, who in that mean while was lying sick. 
A Simoniacal Vision.  He being stricken in admiration with these news, caused himself to be borne thither, and laid before the Altar, and falling in a marvelous trance, the Virgin Mary by a heavenly Uision appeared to him, saying, after this manner.  

BEhold, thou hast often pierced the heavens, with invocations for thy reliese, 
A Papistical dreamed of Oration.  and now I am come, not only to restore thee to thy health, but also to certify thee, that thou doubt nothing of this house; for it is holy in respect of me, the chaste immaculate Virgin, ordained before all eternity, to be the mother of the most High: It was in this Chamber my Mother Anna conceived me, nourished me, and brought me up, in singing Psalms, Hymns, and Praises, to the glory of God; and also I kept in this room the blessed Infant jesus, very God, and very Man, without any grievance or pain, brought him up with all diligent observation: And when cruel Herod sought the Babes life, by the advertisement of the Angel, I, and my husband joseph, who never knew my body, fled with him down to Egypt. And after his passion, death, and ascension to Heaven, to make a reconciliation of human nature, with the Court Celestial: I stayed in this house with john, and the other Disciple: Who considering after my death, what high mysteries had been done in it, consecrated and converted the same to a Temple, for a comemoration of Christ sufferings, the chief of Martyrs. Also that resplending image thou seest, was made by Saint Luke, (my familiar) for eternising the memory of my portraiture as I was alive, by the commandment of him, who doth all things, and shall conserve this sacred Image to the world's end: That Cross of Cedar, which standeth at the side of the little western Window, was made by the Apostles: These Cinders in the Chimney touch not, because they are the fragments of the last fire I made on earth: And that Shelf whereon my linen clothes and prayer Books lay, let no man come near it: For all these places are sanctified and holy. Wherefore my son, I tell thee, Awake, and go recite the same which I have told thee unto others; and to confirm thy belief therein, the Queen of heaven giveth thee freely thy health.   
Friar Alexander, being ravished (say they) with this Uision, went and reported it to Nicholas Frangipano, Lord of that Country: 
The shameful opinions of the Papists concerning Loretta.  And incontinently he sent this Prior and other four Friars to Nazareth, whereby he might know the truth thereof, but in that journey they died. The Virgin Mary perceiving their incredulity, caused Angels the second time to transport the house over the gulf of Venice, to a great wood near by the sea side, in the Territory of Riginati. Which, when the Countrymen had found, and remarking the splendour of the illuminating Image, dispersed these news abroad. And the Citizens of Riginati, having seen what great miracles was daily done, by the virtue of this Chapel, imposed to it this name, Madonna di Loretta. A little while after the people resorting to it with rich gifts, there haunted in the Wood many thieves and cut-throats, who rob and murdered the Pilgrims: Which innocent spilled blood, pricking her to the heart, she made the Angels transport it the third time, and set it on the top of a little Mountain, belonging to two brethren in heritage: But they upon a day quarreling, 
Four times transported.  and discording, about the utility of the Offerings to this House, the Angels did remove it the fourth time, and placed it in a high broad way, where it standeth unremoved to this day. This was confirmed by the Papal Authority to be of an undoubted truth, 
A confirmation by the Popes.  after a hundred and fifty three years deliberation. Lo, as briefly as I could, have I laid open to thy judicious eyes, the Transportations, Original, and Papistical Opinions of Loretta. Protesting I have added nothing to the Author's description, but only collected these special Warrants, omitting other infinite foolish toys, conceived for their blindfolded credulity.  
O strange and wonderful frailty of men! what damnable imperfections domineer over their brainsick knowledge: Satan, thou Prince of darkness, hast so over-sylled the dimmed eyes of their wretched souls, that notwithstanding God's eternal word, ordained to call them (through the spotless blood of Christ jesus) to be the heirs and adopted Sons of Salvation: yet thou all-abhominable enemy of mankind, overthrowest both their spiritual and natural understanding in a bottomless Ocean of dark ignorance; promising to thy obdurate soldiers, to build Castles in the Air; and contrariwise are busy, digging down dungeons, to welcome thy hellish eternised guests, with horrible torments, and never-ceasing flames of everlasting fire. What wilfull-hearted man, can be so apt to believe, that our blessed Lady, had such estimation of mortar and stones, as to have (although she had, had power) caused Angels to transport a rotten house so often? No, I say, believe it who so will, questionless the judgements of God in the truth of his allseeing justice, shall reward their too credulous minds accordingly: Then shall they know their foolish and superstitious errors.  
Leaving this, 
Born at S. Andrew in Scotland.  and returning to my purpose, I embarked at Ancona, in a Frigato; And by Accident here I encountered with a most courteous, and discrete Gentleman, james Arthur, whose company was to me most acceptable; our acquaintance being first made, at the beginning of the same voyage, upon the Mountains of Terrara in Burgundy: He had also been at Rome, and bound to visit Venice, in his returning home to his native Country of North Britain. This City of Ancona, in the time of Traianus the Emperor, flourished mightily in fame, and reputation, and yet a gallant place to this day; 
Contemnunt omnes Anconae moenia Turcas.   
Along this Adriatic Coast, I saw no remarkable thing, save the two Cities Rimini and Ravenna: which were famous in the days of Octavius Caesar, but now somewhat impoverished, in regard of divers incursions sustained. Sailing by the mouth of Rubicon, called now Pissatello (which julius Caesar passed over, against the ordinance of the Senate, and afterward seized upon Rome, putting Pompeius to flight) I saw the place where the bloody battle was fought between the French and Spaniards, Anno Domini one thousand five hundred and twelve, 
A battle.  but the victory fell to the Gauls, with the loss of nineteen thousand men on every side, and they have erected singular Monuments there, in a perpetual memory thereof. After three days sailing (having passed by Malamucko, which is the Haven of the great Venetian ships) we arrived at Saint Marks place in Venice.  
Cingitur urbs Venetum pelago, ditissima nummis▪  
Venice is a Garden of riches, and worldly pleasures, the chief flower of Commonweals, and the perfit mirror of Civil and Politic Government. This sequestrate City, is situate in the bosom of Neptune, and divided from the world, with a part of his main body, which environeth the Island: The provision of their magnificent Arsenal, Artillery, Munition, and Armour, the division of streets with Channels, the innumerable Bridges of Stone, and Timber, their accustomable kind of living, apparel, courtesies, and conventions; and finally, the glory of Gallants, Galleries, Galleys, Galleasses, and Gallouns, were a thing impossible for me briefly to relate. Wherefore since the situation thereof, and the decorements of their beautiful Palaces, are so well known by the better sort, I desist, concluding thus; this incomparable mansion is the only Paragon of all Cities in the world. In the time of my staying here, I went forth to Lombary, and visited the famous Cities of Padua, Verona, and Ferrara. The commendation of which is celebrated in these verses: 
Extollit Paduam, juris studium, & medicinae.  
Verona, humanae dat singula commoda vitae.  
Exhaurit loculos Ferrarea ferrea plenos.   
I commend the devotion of Venice and Genua, beyond all the other Cities in Italy: 
A true comparison of the jews and the Jesuits.  For the Venetians have banished the Jesuits out of their Territories and islands; And the Genueses have abandoned the society of jews, and exposed them from their jurisdiction. The jews and the Jesuits are brethren in blasphemies; for the jews are naturally subtle, hateful, avaricious, and above all the greatest calumniators of Christ's name: And the ambitious Jesuits, are Flatterers, Bloudy-gospellers, treasonable taletellers, and the only railers upon the sincere life of good Christians. Wherefore I end with this verdict, the jew, and the jesuit is a Poltroon and a Parasite.   

A Description of the Adriaticall and jonean islands, how they have been first named, and now governed, of Istria, Dalmatia, Slavonia, Epire, Peloponnesus, and Athens, of a Monster borne in Lesina, and what dangers befell him in his voyage to Creta.  
AFter 24 days attendance, and expecting for passage, I embarked in a Carmoesalo, being bound to Zara Nova in Dalmatia: Scarcely had we lost the sight of Venice, but we encountered with a deadly storm at Seroco è Levante. The master had no compass to direct his course, neither was he expert in Navigation; because they use commonly, either on the South or North sides of the Gulf, to hoist up sails at night, and against break of day they have full sight of land, taking their directions from the topped hills of the main continent. The tempest increasing, and the winds contrary, we were constrained to seek up for the Port of Parenzo in Istria.  
Istria was first called Giapidia, according to Pliny: Cato affirmeth, that it was Istria of one Isiro; but by the modern writers, l'ultima regione di Italia. By Ptolomeus it is said to be of length 120 miles, and 40 large.  
That part which bordereth with the sea, belongeth to the Venetians, but the rest within land holds of the Emperor, and the Archduke of Austria. The country itself aboundeth in Corns, Wines, and all manner of fruits, necessary for human life. Near to this haven wherein we lay, expecting room winds; I saw the ruins of old justinopoli, so called of justinian the Emperor, who builded it upon an Island of a miles length, & three acres broad. And to pass betwixt the City and the firm land, there were seven bridges made. It was anciently strong, but now altogether decayed. The principal Cities in Istria at this day, are these, Parenzo, Humago, Pola, Rovigno.  
The winds favouring us, we weighed anchors, and sailed by the Isles Brioni, so much esteemed for the fine stones they produce, called Istriennes: which serve to beautify the Venetian Palaces. About midday I saw Mount di Caldaro, on the foot of which, the ancient City of Pola is situated, having a harbour wherein small ships may lie. True it is, this Port is not much frequented, in respect of a contagious Lake near to it, which infecteth the air with a filthy exhalation. I saw hard by this place, the ruins of the Castle Di Oriando; the Ark triumphant, and the relics of a great amphitheatre. 
Pola.  This Pola was called by Pliny, julia pietas, and it standeth on the Southeast part of Istria. Continuing our course, we passed the perilous gulf of Carnaro, and sailed close by the I'll Sangego, called formerly Illirides: This I'll is of circuit four score, and of length thirty miles. Our fresh water waxing scant, and the winds falling out contrary to our expectation, we sought in to Valdogosta in the I'll of Osero, which is a safe haven for ships and Galleys. This Osero was first named Asphorus, and then Absirtites, of a captain Absertus, who came from Colchos, accompanied with many people, to bring back Medea's to his father Acetus. Whose purpose being frustrated, stayed still, and inhabited this land, as witnesseth Apollonius Rhodius. A fit opportunity obtained, upon the eight day we arrived in the road of Zara in Dalmatia; for there the Carmoesalo stayed, and I was exposed to seek passage for Ragusa.  
By the way I recall the great kindness of that Dalmatian Master, 
The kindness of a Dalmatian.  for offering my condition, I found him more than courteous, and would have no more but the half of that which was his bargain at Venice. Besides this, he also entertained me three days, with a most bountiful and kind acceptance: My solitary traveling he oft bewailed, wishing me to desist, and never attempt such a voyage; but I giving him absolute and constant answers, appeased his imagined sorrow.  
The affable dealing of this stranger made me remember the kindness of my aforesaid Countryman, M. Arthur, whose external show (for that time we traveled sociably together) gave me the deep measure of his internal affection: for as man oweth no less to his native Country, than what his breath and blood are worth; so I, for many weighty considerations (and especially for that high respect) endeavoured myself to the utmost of my power, to attempt this fastidious wandering, whereby I might manifest to my natives, that zeal I bore, in undertaking such dangers (as it were) for that never-conquered kingdoms sake; leaving him to be the last witness of that innated duty, which I did owe unto my dearest Nation, whether I returned or died in my achievements. I also recall our discontented parting at Venice, engendered divers languishing conceits, which I strove to mitigate by odd devised merriments; yet notwithstanding could not well expel his melancholy: for often at our encontrings before into Italy and France, I have heard him sigh in a most melancholious humour, which (as I did conjecture) was for some lovesick passion, or some such like male-contentment, that had enforced him in pilgrimage, two times to cross the snowy Alps.  
Zara is the Capital City of Dalmatia, called of old jadara: The inhabitants are governed by a Camarlingo, in the behalf of Venice: the walls whereof are strongly rampired with earth, surpassing the tops of the stone-worke: and fortified also with high Bulwarks, and planted Canons on elevated rampires of earth: which are above forty cubits higher than the walls and bulwars, standing in the four several corners of the City,  
There lie continually in it, a great garrison of Soldiers, to defend the Town and Citizens, who are maintained by the Duke of Venice: for he is Signior thereof. They have endured many invasions of the Turks, especially in the year 1570, when for the space of fourteen Months they were daily molested and besieged, but the victory fell ever to the Christians. If the Turks could win this place, they might easily command the Adriaticall Seas, in regard of that fair haven which is there, to receive Ships and Galleys: which maketh the Venetians not a little fearful. Yet they licentiate the neighbouring Infidels to traffic with them; but when they enter the gates, they must deliver their Weapons to the Corporal of the squadron company. Neither may they stay within all night, under the pain of imprisonment. Dalmatia was called so of Mauritius the Emperor. The four principal Provinces whereof are these, Atheos', Senebico, Spalleto, and Tragurio. A part of which belongeth to Venice, another part to the Duke of Austria, and the third part unto the Turks. Zara is distant from Venice 200 miles.  
From Zara I embarked in a small Frigate, bound for Lesina, with five Slavonian Mariners: who sometimes sailed, and sometimes rowed with their oars. In our way we passed by the I'll of Brazza, which is of no great quantity, but fertile enough for the Inhabitants, and kept by a Gentleman of Venice. It lieth in the mouth of the gulf Narento, that divideth Dalmatia from Slavonia: Many conceive in effect, that these two kingdoms are all one: but I hold the contrary opinion, both by experience, and by ancient Authors. Having passed Capo di Costa, which is the beginning of Slavonia, I saw upon my right hand, a round rock of a great height, in form of a Pyramid: It is cognominated by Eastern Mariners, Pomo, anciently Salyro, for the good Falcons that are bred therein. It standeth in the midst of the gulf between Slavonia and Italy.  
A little beyond that rock I saw the three Isles Trimiti: 
The Isles Tremiti.  the chiefest whereof is called Teucria, but they are vulgarly called the Isles of Diomedes, who was King of Etolla. They are right opposite to Mount Gargano, now called S. Angelo, and distant from the main land of Pulia in Italy about nine miles.  
The poor Slavonians being fatigated in their hunger-starued-Boat, with extraordinary pains, (for we had three days calm, which is not usually seen in these seas) were enforced to repose all night in the barren I'll of Saint Andrew this I'll is of circuit four miles, but not inhabited. The excessive rain that fell in the evening, made us go on shore to seek the coverture of some rock; which found, we lay all night on hard stones, and with hungry bellies: for our provision was spent. The breach of day giving comfort to our distressed bodies with favourable winds at the Garbo è ponente, we set forward, and about midday we arrived in the port of Lesina, of which the Isle taketh the name.  
This I'll of Lesina is of circuit 150 miles, and is the biggest Island in the Adriatic sea: it is exceeding fertile, and yieldeth all things plentifully that is requisitite for the sustenance of man. This City is unwalled, and of no great quantity, but they have a strong fortress, which defendeth the town, the Haven, and the vessels in the road. The Governor who was a Venetian, after he had inquired of my intended voyage, most courteously invited me three times to his table, in the time of my five days staying there. And at the last meeting he reported the Story of a marvelous misshapen creature borne in that Island, ask, if I would go thither to see it: Wherewith (when I perfectly understood the matter) I was contented: the Gentleman honoured me also with his company, and a horse to ride on, where when we came, the Captain called for the father of that Monster, 
A Monster borne in Lesina.  to bring him forth before us. Which unnatural child being brought, I was amazed in that sight, to behold the deformity of Nature; for below the middle part there was but one body, and above the middle there was two living souls, each one separated from another with several members. Their heads were both of one bigness, but different in Phisnomy: the belly of the one joined with the posterior part of the other, and their faces looked both on one way, as if the one had carried the other on his back, and often before our eyes, he that was behind, would lay his hands about the neck of the foremost. Their eyes were exceeding big, and their hands greater than an infants of three times their age: the excrements of both creatures issued forth at one place, and their thighs and legs of a great growth, not semblable to their age, being but six and thirty days old; and their feet were proportionably made like the foot of a Camel, round, and sloven in the midst. They received their food with an insatiable desire, and continually mourned with a pitiful noise; that sorrowful man told us, that when the one slept, the other awaked, which was a strange disagreement in nature.  
The Mother of them bought dearly that birth, with the loss of her own life; and as her husband reported, unspeakable was the torment she endured, in that woefull-wrestling pain. I was also informed afterwards, that this one, or rather twofold wretch, lived but a short while.  
Leaving this monstrous shapen Monster to the own strange and almost incredible nativity, we returned to Lesina. But by the way of our backe-comming, I remember that worthy Gentleman showed me the ruins of an old house, where the noble King Demetrius was borne; and after I had yielded my bounden and dutiful thanks unto his generous mind, I hired a Fisher-boat to go over to Clyssa, being 12 miles distant. This I'll of Clyssa is of length twenty, and of circuit threescore miles: it is beautified with two profitable Seaports, and under the Signiory of Venice. There are indifferent good commodities therein; upon the Southside of this Island lieth the Isle Pelagusa.  
Departing from thence in a Carmoesalo bound to Ragusa, we sailed by the three Isles, Brisca, Placa, Igezi; and when we entered in the gulf of Cataro, we fetched up the sight of the I'll Melida, called of old Meligna: Before we could attain unto the Haven, wherein our purpose was to stay all night, we were assailed on a sudden with a deadly storm: In so much, that every swallowing wave threatened our death, and bred in our breasts an intermingled sorrow of fear and hope. The winds becoming calm, and our desired safety enjoyed, we set forward in the gulf of Cataro, and sailed by the I'll Curzola: In this Island I saw a Walled Town called Curzola, which hath two strong fortresses to guard it. It is both commodious for the traffic of Merchandise they have, and also for the fine wood that groweth there, whereof the Venetian Ships and Galleys are made: An Island no less delightful than profitable; and the two Governors thereof are changed every eighteen months, by the State of Venice.  
It was of old called, Curcura, Melana, and of some Corcira nigra, but by the Moderns, Curzola. Continuing our course, we passed by the Isles, Sabionzello, Torquolla, and Catza Augusta, appertaining to the Republic of Ragusa. They are all three well inhabited, and fruitful, yielding corns, wines, and certain rare kinds of excellent fruits. It is dangerous for great vessels to come near their coasts, because of the hidden shelves that lie off in the Sea, called Augustini, where divers ships have been cast away in foul weather; upon the second day after our losing from Clyssa, we arrived at Ragusa.  

Ragusa.  Ragusa is a Commonweal, governed by Senators, and a Senate Council: it is wonderful strong, and also well guarded, being situate by the sea side, it hath a fine haven, and many goodly ships thereunto belonging. The greatest traffic they have, is with the Genueses: Their territory in the firm land is not much, in respect of the neighbouring Turks, but they have certain commodious islands, which to them are profitable: And notwithstanding, of the great strength, and riches they possess, yet for their better safeguard, and liberty, they pay a yearly tribute unto the great Turk, amounting to fourteen thousand Chickenes of Gold: yea, and also they pay yearly a tributary pension unto the Venetians, for the Isles reserved by them in the Adriaticall Gulf. The most part of the civil Citizens, have but the half of their heads bare, but the base sort are all shaven.  
This City is the Metropolitan of the Kingdom of Slavonia: Slavonia was first called Liburnia, next, Iliria, of Iliro the son of Cadmus: But lastly, named Slavonia, of certain slaves, that came from Sarmatia passing the river Danubio, in the time of the Emperor justinian. So much as is called Slavonia, extendeth from the River Arsa in the West, the River Drino in the East, on the South bordereth with the Gulf of Venice, and on the North with the Mountains of Croatia: These Mountains divide also Ragusa from Bosna.  
The next two special Cities in that Kingdom, are Sabenica, and Salona. The Slavonians are of a robust nature, martial, and valiant fellows, and a great help to maintain the right and liberty of the Venetian state. From Ragusa I embarked in a Tartareta, loaden with corns, and bound to Corfu, being three hundred miles distant.  
In all this way we found no Island, but sailed along the main Land of the Ilirian shore: having passed the Gulf of Cataro, and Capo di Fortuna, I saw Castello novo, which is a strong Fortress, situate on the top of a Rock: wherein one Barbarisso, the Captain of Solyman, starved to death four thousand Spaniards. Having left Iliria and Valona behind us, we sailed by Capo di Polone. This high land is the furthest part of the Gulf of Venice, and opposite against Capo di Sancta Maria, in Pulia, each one in sight of an other, and fourteen leagues distant. Continuing our navigation, we entered into the Sea jonium, and sailed along the coast of Epire, which was the famous Kingdom of the Epirotes. This is the first land of Greece, and upon the sixth day after our departure from Ragusa, we arrived at Corfu.  

Corfu.  Corfu is an Island, no less beautiful, then invincible: It lieth in the Sea jonean, the inhabitants are greeks, and the Governors Venetians: This Isle was much honoured by Homer, for the pleasant Gardens of Alcino, which were in his time: It is of circuit one hundred and twenty, and fifty miles in breadth. The City Corfu, from which the Isle hath the name, is situate at the foot of a Mountain, whereupon are builded two strong Fortresses, and environed with a natural Rock: 
Two strong Castles in the I'll Corfu.  The one is called Fortezza nova, and the other Fortezza Vechia: They are well governed, and circumspectly kept, least by the instigation of the one Captain, the other should commit some treasonable effects: And for the same purpose, the Governors of both Castles, at their election before the Senators of Venice, are sworn; neither privately nor openly, to have mutual conference; nor to write one to another, for the spare of two years, which is the time of their government. These Castles are inaccessible, and unconquerable, if that the Keepers be loyal, and provided with natural and martial furniture. They are vulgarly called, The Forts of Christendom, by the greeks, but more justly, The strength of Venice: For if these Castles were taken by the Turks, the Trade of the Venetian Merchants would be of none account; yea, the very mean to overthrow Venice itself.  
From thence, I embarked in a Greekish Carmoesalo, with a great number of passengers, greeks, Slavonians, Italians, Armenians, and jews, that were all mindful to Zante, and I also of the like intent; being in all forty eight persons: having room, winds, and a fresh gale, in four and twenty hours, we discovered the Isle Cephalonia: In this mean while the Captain of the vessel, espied a Sail coming from the Sea, he presently being moved therewith, sent a Mariner to the top, who certified him she was a Turkish Galley of Biserta, prosecuting a strait course to invade our Bark. Which sudden affrighting news, overwhelmed us almost in despair. Resolution being, by the amazed Master, demanded of every man what was best to do; some replied one way, and some another: Insomuch that the most part of the passengers, gave counsel, rather to render, then fight; being confident, their friends would pay their ransom, and so relieve them. But I, the wandering Pilgrim, pondering in my pensive breast, my solitary estate, the distance of my Country and Friends, could conceive no hope of deliverance. Upon the which troublesome and fearful appearance of slavery, I absolutely arose, and spoke to the Master, saying: The half of the Carmoesalo is your own, and the most part also of the loading (all which he had told me before) Wherefore my counsel is, that you prepare yourself to fight, and go encourage your passengers, promise to your Mariners double wages, make ready your two pieces of Ordinance, your Muskets, Powder, Led, and halfe-pikes: For who knoweth, but the Lord may deliver us from the thraldom of these Infidels. My exhortation ended, he was greatly animated therewith, 
A preparation to fight.  and gave me thanks; whereupon, assembling the passengers and Mariners, he gave good comfort, and large promises to them all: So that their affrighted hopes were converted to a courageous resolution; seeming rather to give the first assault, then to receive the second wrong.  
To perform the plots of our defence, every man was busy in the work, some below in the Gunner-roome, others cleansing the Muskets, some preparing the powder and Balls, some dressing the halfe-pikes, and others making fast the doors above: for so the Master resolved to make combat below, both to save us from small shot, and beside for boarding us on a sudden. The dexterous courage of all men was so forward to defend their lives and liberty, that truly in my opinion we seemed thrice as many as we were. All things below and above being cunningly perfected, and every one ranked in order with his harquebus and Pike, to stand on the Centenall of his own defence, we recommended ourselves into the hands of the Almighty, and in the mean while attended their fiery salutations.  

The assault of a Turkish Galley.  In a furious spleen, the first Hola of their courtesies, was the progress of a martial conflict, thundering forth a terrible noise of Gally-roaring pieces. And we in a sad reply, sent out a backe-sounding echo of fiery-flying shots, which made an equivox to the clouds, rebounding backward in our perturbed breasts, the ambiguous sounds of fear and hope. After a long and doubtful fight, both with great and small shot (night parting us) the Turks retired till morning, and then were mindful to give us the new rencounter of a second Alarm. But, as it pleased him, who never faileth his, to send down an unresistible tempest; about the break of day we escaped their furious designs, and were enforced to seek into the bay of Largostolo in Cephalonia; both because of the violent weather, and also for that a great leak was stricken into our ship. In this fight there were of us killed three Italians, two greeks, and two jews, with eleven others deadly wounded, and I also hurt in the right Arm, with a small shot. But what harm was done by us amongst the Infidels, we were not assured thereof; save only this, we shot away their middle Mast, and the hinder part of the Puppe: For the greeks are not expert Gunners, neither could our Harquebusadoes much annoy them, in respect they never boarded: But howsoever it was, being all disbarked on shore, we gave thanks to the Lord for our unexpected safety, and buried the dead Christians in a Greekish Churchyard, and the jews were interred by the Seaside.  
This Bay of Lorgostolo is two miles in length, being environed with two little Mountains: upon the one of these two, standeth a strong Fortress, which defendeth the passage of the narrow Gulf. It was here that the Christian Galleys assembled, in the year 1571 when they came to abate the rage of the great Turk's Armado; which, at that time lay in Peterasso, in the firm land of Greece, and had made conquest the year before, of noble Cyprus from the Venetians.  
This I'll of Cephalonia was formerly called Ithaca, and greatly renowned, because it was the heritable Kingdom of the worthy Ulysses, who excelled all other greeks in eloquence and subtlety of wit. Secondly, by Strabo it was named Dulichi: And thirdly, by ancient Authors Cephalonia, of Cephalo, who was Captain of the Army of Cleobas Anfrittion: The which Anfrittion, having conquered the Island, gave it in a gift to Cephalo: The Land itself is full of Mountains, yet exceeding fertile, yielding Malvasy, muscadine, Vino Leatico, Raisins, Olives, Figs, Honey, Sweet-water, Pine, Molbery, Date, and Chypre-trees, and all others forts of fruits in abundance. The commodity of which redounds yearly to the Veneians; for they are Signiors thereof.  
Leaving this weatherbeaten Carmoesalo, laid up to a full Sea, I took purpose to travel through the Island: In the first days journey, I passed by many fine villages, and pleasant fields, especially the vale Alessandro, where the greeks told me, their Ancestors were vanquished in battle by the Macedonian Conqueror. They also showed me, on the top of Mount Gargasso, the ruins of that Temple, which had been of old dedicated to jupiter: And upon the second day I hired two Fishermen in a little Boat, to carry me over to Zante, being twenty five miles distant.  
The I'll of Zante was called Zachinthus, 
Zante.  because so was called the son of Dardanus, who reigned there. And by some, Hyria. It hath a City of a great length, bordering along the Sea side; and on the top of a Hill, above the Town, standeth a large, and strong Fortress (not unlike to the Castle of Milan) wherein the Providitore dwelleth, who governeth the Island. This City is subject yearly to fearful Earthquakes, especially in the months of October and November, which oftentimes subvert their houses, bringing harm and damage to them. This I'll produceth good store of Raisin de Corinth, commonly called Currants, Olives, Pomegranates, Cytrones, Oranges, Lemons, Granadiers and Melons. The Islanders are greeks, a kind of subtle people, and great dissemblers; but the Signiory thereof belongeth to Venice. And if it were not for that great provision of Corn, which is daily transported from the firm Land of Greece to them, the Inhabitants in a short time would famish. Bidding farewell to Zante, I embarked in a Frigato, going to Peterasso in Morca, which of old was called Peloponnesus: And by the way in the Gulf Lepanto, (which divideth Etolia and Morca: The chiefest City in Etolia is called Lepanto: from thence Westward by the Seaside, is Delphos famous for the Oracle of Apollo) we sailed by the Isles Echinidi, but by the Modern Writers, Curzolari; where the Christians obtained the victory against the Turks, for there did they fight, after this manner.  

The battle between the Christians and Turks at Lepanto.  In the year 1571, and the sixth of October, john Duke of Austria, General for the Spanish Galleys, Marco Antonio Colonna, for Pope Pio Quinto; and Sebastiano Venieco for the Venetian Army, convened altogether in Largostolo at Cephalonia: having of all 208 Galleys, six Galleasses, and five and twenty Frigotes. After a most resolute deliberation, these three Generals went with a valiant courage to encounter with the Turkish Armado, on the Sunday morning, the seventh of October; who in the end, through the help of Christ, obtained a glorious victory. In that fight there was taken and drowned 180. of Turkish Galleys; and there escaped about the number of six hundred and fifty Ships, Galleys, Galeots, and other Uessels: There was fifteen thousand Turks killed, and four thousand taken prisoners, and twelve thousand Christians delivered from their slavish bondage. In all, the Christians loosed but eleven Galleys, and five thousand slain. At their return to Largostolo, after this victorious battle, the three Generals divided innumerable spoils, to their well-deserving Captains, and worthy Soldiers.  
After my arrival in Peterasso, the Metropolitan of Peloponnesus, I left the turmoiling dangers of the intricated Isles of the jonean and Adriaticall Seas, and advised to travail in the firm Land of Greece, with a Caravan of greeks, that was bound for Athens. But before he admitted me into his company, he was wonderful inquisitive, for what cause I traveled alone, and of what Nation I was? To whom I soberly excused, and discovered myself with modest answers: Which pacified his curiosity, but not his avaricious mind; for under a pretended protection he had of me, he extorted the most part of my money from my purse, without any regard of conscience.  
In the first, second, and third days journeying, we had fair way, hard lodging, but good cheer, and kind entertainment for our money: But on the fourth day, when we entered in the Hilly and barren Country of Arcadia; 
Although Arcadia in former times was pleasant, yet it is now for the most part, waist and disinhabited.  where, for a days journey we had no village, but saw abundance of cattle without keepers. In this Desert way, I beheld many singular Monuments and ruinous Castles, whose names I knew not, because I had an ignorant guide: But this I remember, amongst these Rocks, my belly was pinched, and wearied was my body, with the climbing of fastidious Mountains, which bred no small grief to my breast. Yet notwithstanding of my distress, the remembrance of those sweet seasoned Songs, of Arcadian Shepherds which pregnant Poets have so well penned, did recreate my fatigated corpse, with many sugared suppositions. These sterile bounds being past, we entered in the Eastern plain of Morea, 
Lacedaemon in Sparta.  called anciently Sparta, where that, sometimes, famous City of Lacedaemon flourished, but now sacked, and the lumps of ruins and memory only remains. Marching thus, we left Modena, and Napoli, on our right hand, toward the Seaside, and on the sixth day at night, we pitched our Tents in the disinhabited villages of Argo and Micene, from the which, unhappy Helen was ravished. here I had the ground to be a pillow, and the world-wide-fields to be a Chamber, the whirling-windy-skies, to be a roof to my Winter-blasted lodging, and the humid vapours of cold Nocturna, to accompany the unwished-for-bed of my repose.  
In all this Country I could find nothing, to answer the famous relations, given by ancient Authors, of the excellency of that Land, but the name only; the barbarousness of Turks and Time, having defaced all the Monuments of Antiquity: No show of honour, no habitation of men in an honest fashion, nor possessors of the Country in a Principality. But rather prisoners shut up in prisons, or addicted slaves to cruel and tyrannical Masters: So deformed is the state of that once worthy Realm, and so miserable is the burden of that afflicted people: Which, and the appearance of that permanency, grieved my heart to behold the sinister working of blind Fortune, which always plungeth the most renowned Champions and their memory, in the profoundest pit of all extremities and oblivion.  
Departing from Argo, upon the seventh day we arrived at Athens: Athens is still inhabited, standing in the East part of Peloponnesus, near to the Frontiers of Macedon: It was first called Cecropia, and lastly Athens of Minerva. This City was the mother and wellspring of all liberal Arts and Sciences, 
Athens.  but now altogether decayed: The circuit of old Athens hath been, according to the fundamental walls yet extant, about six Italian miles, but now of no great quantity, nor many dwelling houses therein. They have abundance of all things, requisite for the sustenance of human life, of which I had no small proof: for these Athenians, or greeks, exceeding kindly banqueted me four days, 
Kind Athenians.  and furnished me with necessary provision for my voyage to Creta. And also transported me by sea in a Brigandino freely to Serigo, being four and forty miles distant.  
After my redounded thanks, they having returned, the contemplation on their courtesies brought me in remembrance, how curious the old Athenians were to hear of foreign news, and with what great regard and estimation they honoured travelers. Serigo is an Island in the sea Cretico: it was anciently called Cytherea of Cythero the son of Phaenise: and of Aristotle Porphyris, or Schotera, in respect of the fine marble that is got there. It is of circuit 60 miles, having but one Castle called Capsallo, which is kept by a Venetian Captain. Here it is said, that Venus did first inhabit, and I saw the ruins of her demolished Temple on the side of a mountain yet extant. A little more downward below this Temple of Venus, are the relics of that Palace, wherein Menelaus did dwell, who was King of Sparta, and Lord of this I'll. The greeks of the I'll told me, there were wild Asses there, who had a stone in their heads, which was a sovereign remedy for the falling sickness, and good to make a woman be quickly delivered of her birth.  
In the time of my abode, at the village of Capsalo (being a haven for small barks, and situate below the Castle) the Captain of that same fortress killed a Seminary Priest whom he had found in the night with his whore in a brothelhouse: 
A Priest killed in a Brothell-house, lying with a whore.  for the which sacrilegious murder, the Governor of the I'll deposed the Captain, and banished him, causing a boat to be prepared to send him to Creta. O, if all the Priests which do commit incest, adultery, and fornication, (yea and worse, Il peccato carnale contra natura) were thus handled, and severely rewarded; what a sea of Sodomitical irreligious blood would overflow the half of Europe, to stain the spotted colour of that Roman Beast. Truly, and yet more, these lascivious Friars are the very Epicures, or off-scouring of the earth; for how oft have I heard them say one to another? Allegre, allegre, mio caro fratello, chi been mangia, been beve, etc. that is, Be cheerful, be cheerful, dear brother, he that eateth well, drinketh well; he that drinketh well, sleepeth well, he that sleepeth well sinneth not; & he that sins not, goeth strait through Purgatory to Paradise. This is all the care of their living, making their tongues to utter what their hearts do thus profanely think, Ede, bibe, dormi, post mortem nulla voluptas. In the aforesaid boat I also embarked with the Captain, and sailed by the I'll Serogota. Leaving Capo di Spada, on our left hand we arrived at Carabusa with extreme fortune, being fiercely pursued by three Turkish Galliots.   

A Description of the Kingdom of Creta, of his dangers and hard fortunes amongst the Isles Syclades, of Thessaly, Mecadonia, the hill Parnassus, Achaia, Tenedos, Troy, Phrygia, Colchos, Sestos and Abydos, the Gulf of Hellespont, and of his voyage to Constantinople.  
THe I'll of Candy was called Creta: It is a most famous and ancient Kingdom: By Modern Writers, it is Queen of the Isles Mediterrene. It had of old a hundred Cities, whereof it had the name Hecatompolis, but now only four, Candia, Canea, Rhethimos, and Schythia, the rest are but villages and Bourges. It is of length, to wit, from Capo Ermico in the West, called by Pliny, frons arietis, and Capo Salomone in the East, 240 miles, large threescore, and of circuit 650 miles. This is the chiefest dominion belonging to the Venetian republic: In every one of these four Cities there is a Governor and two Counsellors sent from Venice every two years. The Country is divided into four parts, 
A description of Candie.  under the jurisdiction of the four Cities, for the better administration of justice: and they have a General, who commonly remaineth in the City of Candy (like to a Uiceroy) who deposeth or imposeth Magistrates, Captains, Soldiers, Officers, and others whatsoever, in the behalf of Saint Mark, or Duke of Venice. The Venetians detain continually a strong guard, divided into Companies, Squadrons and Garrisons, in the Cities and Fortresses of the Island, which do extend to the number of twelve thousand Soldiers, kept, not only for the incursion of Turks, but also for fear of the Cretans, or inhabitants, who would rather (if they could) render to the Turk, then to live under the subjection of Venice. This I'll produceth the best Maluosey, Muscadine, and Leaticke, that supposedly are in the world. It yieldeth Oranges, Lemons, Melons, Citrons, Grenadiers, Adam's Apples, Raisins, Olives, Dates, Honey, Sugar, Vua di tree volte, and all other kinds of fruit in abundance. But the most part of their Corns are brought yearly from Archipelago and Greece. Thus much of the I'll in general; and now in respect of my traveling two times through the bounds of the whole Kingdom, which was never before achieved by any traveler of Christendom, I will as briefly as I can in particular, relate a few of these miseries endured by me in this land, with the nature and quality of the people.  
The aforesaid Carabusa is the principal fortress of Creta, being of itself invincible, and is not unlike to the Castle of Dunbertan, which standeth at the mouth of Clyd; upon which river the most worthy, 
The old and famous City of Lanerke.  renowned, and anciently ennobled City of Lanerke is situated. For it is environed with a rock higher than the walls, and joineth with Capo Ermico: having learned of the thievish way I had to Canea, I advised to put my money in exchange, which the Captain of that strength very courteously performed; and would also have dissuaded me from my purpose, but I by no persuasion of him would stay. From thence departing, scarcely was I advanced twelve miles in my way, when I was beset on the skirt of a rocky mountain, with three Greek Renegadoes, and an Italian Bandido: who laying hands on me, beat me most cruelly, rob me of all my clothes, and stripped me naked, using many invective speeches. At last the Italian perceiving I was a stranger, and could not speak the Cretan tongue, began to ask me in his own language, where was my money? To whom I soberly answered, I had no more than he saw, which was four score bagantines: but he not giving credit to these words, searched all my clothes and Budgeto, yet found nothing except my linen, and letters of recommendation, I had from divers Princes of Christendom: which when he saw, did move him to compassion, and earnestly entreated the other three thieves to grant me mercy, and save my life. A long deliberation being ended, they restored back again my Pilgrims clothes, and letters, but my blue Gown and Bagantines' they kept. Such also was their thievish courtesy towards me, that for my better safeguard in the way, they gave me a stamped piece of clay, as a token to show any of their companions, if I encountered with them; for they were about twenty rascals of a confederate band, 
A happy deliverance from thieves.  that lay in this desert passage. Leaving them, with many counterfeit thanks, I traveled that day seven and thirty miles, and at night attained to the unhappy village of Pickehorno, where I could have neither meat, drink, lodging, nor any refreshing to my wearied body. These desperate Candiots thronged about me gazing (as though astonished) to see me both want company, and their language, and by their cruel looks they seemed to be a barbarous and uncivil people: For all these High-landers of Candy are tyrannical, bloodthirsty and deceitful. The consideration of which made me to shun their villainy, and privately sought for a secure place of repose in a dark cave by the sea side; in which I lay till morning with a crazed body, and a hungry belly.  
Upon the appearing of the next Aurora, I embraced my unknown way, and about midday came to Canea: Canea is the second City of Crect, exceeding populous, well-walled, and fortified with Bulwarks: It hath a large castle, containing ninety seven Palaces, in which the Rector and other Venetian Gentlemen dwell. There lie continually in it seven Companies of Soldiers, who keep Centenall on the walls, guard the gates, and market-places of the City: Neither in this town nor Candia, may any Country Peasant enter with weapons (especially Harquebuses) for that conceited fear they have of treason. Truly this City may equal in strength, either Zara in Dalmatia, or Luka, or Leghorn, both in Tuscana: for these four Cities are so strong, 
Four strong City.  that in all my travels I never saw them matched. They are all well provided with Artillery, and all necessary things for their defence, especially Luka, which continually reserves in store provision of victuals for 12 years siege. Being here disappointed of transportation to Archipelago, I advised to visit Candy; and in my way I saw the large haven of Suda, which hath no town or village, save only a castle situated on a rock in the sea, at the entry of the Bay: the bounds of that harbour may receive at one time above 2000 ships and galleys, and is the only key of the Island: for which place the King of Spain hath oft offered an infinite deal of money to the Venetians, whereby his navy which sometimes resort in the Levante, might have access and relief; but they would never grant him his request.  
Upon the third days journey from Canea, I came to Rethimos; This City is somewhat ruinous and unwalled, but the Citizens have newly builded a strong Fortress, which defendeth them from the invasion of Pirates. It standeth by the Sea side, and in the year 1597, it was miserably sacked and burned with Turks. Continuing my voyage, I passed along the skirt of mount Ida, accompanied with greeks who could speak the Italian tongue, on which first they showed me the cave of king Minos, but some hold it to be the sepulchre of jupiter. This groto is of length 80 paces, 
Minos.  and 8 large. This Minos was said to be the brother of Radamanthus, and Sarpedon; who, after their succession to the kingdom, established such equitable laws, that by Poets they are feigned to be the judges of Hell. I saw also there, the place where jupiter (as they say) was nourished by Amalthes, which by greeks is recited, as well as Latin Poets.  

Saturn.  Thirdly, they showed me the Temple of Saturn, which is a work to be admired, of such Antiquity, and as yet undecayed; who, (say they) was the first King that inhabited there. And near to it, is the demolished Temple of Matelia, having this superscription above the door yet to be seen: Make clean your feet, wash your head, and enter. Fourthly, I saw the entry to the Labyrinth of Dedalus, which I would gladly have better viewed, but because we had no candlelight we durst not enter: for there are many hollow places within it, so that if a man stumble or fall, he can hardly be rescued. It is cut forth with many intricating ways, on the face of a little Hill, joining with Mount Ida.  
Mount Ida is the highest mountain in Creta, and by the computation of shepherds feet, amounteth to six miles of height. It is over-clad even to the top with Cypretrées, and good store of medicinable herbs: insomuch that the beasts which feed thereupon, have their teeth guilded like to the colour of gold. It is said by some Historians that no venomous animal can live in this Isle; but I saw the contrary: for I killed upon one day, two Serpents and a viper: Wherefore many build upon false reports, but experience teacheth men the truth. Descending from this mountain, I entered in a fair plain, beautified with many villages; in one of which I found a Grecian Bishop, who kindly presented with grapes of Malvasy, and other things, for it was in the time of Uintage. To carry these things he had given me, he caused to make ready an Ass, and a servant, who went with me to Candy, which was more than 15 miles from his house. True it is, that the best sort of greeks, in visiting other, do not use to come empty handed, neither will they suffer a stranger to depart without both gifts and convoy.  
Candy is a large and famous City, 
Candie.  situated on a plain by the sea side, having a goodly haven for ships, and a fair Arsenal wherein are 36 Galleys. It is exceeding strong, and daily guarded with 2000 Soldiers, and the Walls in compass are about three leagues. Candy is distant from Venice 1300 miles, from Constantinople 700. from Famagosta in Cyprus 600. from Alexandria in Egypt, 500 and from the City of jerusalem 900 miles. The Candeots through all the Island, make muster every eighth day, before the Sergeant-maiors', or Officers of the General, and are well provided with all sorts of Armour; yea, and the most valorous people that hight the name of greeks. It was told me by the Rector of Candy, that they may raise in Arms of the inhabitants (not reckoning the Garrisons) above sixty thousand men, all able for wars, with 54 Galleys, and 24 Galliots for the sea. In all my travels through this Realm, I never could see a Greek come forth of his house unarmed: and after such a martial manner, that one his head he weareth a bare steel Cap., a Bow in his hand, a long sword by his side, a broad poniard overthwart his belly, and a round target hanging at his girdle. They are not costly in apparel, for they were but linen clothes, and use no shoes, but Boots of white leather: by nature they are crafty and subtle, as Paul mentioneth, Titus. 1.12. Their harvest is our Spring: for they manure the ground, and sow the seed in October, which is reaped in March and April. Being frustrate of my intention at Candy, I was forced to return to Canea, where I stayed 25 days before I could get passage, for I purposed to view Constantinople. I traveled on foot in this I'll more than 400 miles; and upon the 50 day after my first coming to Carabusa, I embarked in a fisher-boat that belonged to Milo, being a hundred miles distant, which had been violently driven thither with stormy weather.  
Milo was called by Aristotle, Melada; and by others, Mimalida, Melos: And lastly, Milo, because of the fine Millstones that are got there, which are transported to Constantinople, Greece and Anatolia. This I'll is one of the Isles Cyclades, or Sporades, but more commonly Archipelago, or the Arch-ilands, and standeth in the beginning of the Aegean sea: The inhabitants are greeks, but slaves to the Turk, and so are all the 53 Isles of the Cycladeses, save only Tino, which holdeth of the Venetians.  

Milo.  From Milo I came to Zephano, an Island of circuit about twenty miles: The inhabitants are poor, yet kind people. There are an infinite number of Partridges within this I'll, of a reddish colour, and bigger than ours in Britain: they are wild, and only killed by small shot; but I have seen in other islands flocks of them feeding in the fields, and usually kept by children: some others I have seen in the streets of villages, without any keeper, even as Hens do with us. I saw fountains here that naturally yield fine oil, which is the greatest advantage the Islanders have.  
From thence I embarked, and arrived at Angusa in Parir: This I'll is forty miles long, 
Parir.  and six miles broad: being plentiful enough in all necessary things for the use of of man: In Angusa I stayed 16 days, storme-sted, with Northerly winds; and in all that time I never came in bed: for my lodging was in a little Church without the village, on hard stones; where I also had a fire, and dressed my meat. The greeks visited me oftentimes, and entreated me above all things, I should not enter within the bounds of their Sanctuary, because I was not of their Religion. These miserable Islanders are a kind of silly poor people; which in their behaviour showed the necessity they had to live, rather than any pleasure in their living. From thence I arrived in the I'll of Mecano, where I but only dined, & so set forward to Zea. Zea was so called of Zeo, the son of Phoebo; and of some Tetrapoli; because of the four Cities that were there of old. Simonides the Poet, and Eristato the excellent Physician, were borne in it. The next I'll of any note we touched at, was Tino: This Island is under the Signory of Venice, and was sometimes beautified with the Temple of Neptune. By Aristotle it was Idrusa; of Demosthenes, and Eschines, Erusea: It hath an impregnable Castle, builded on the top of a high Rock; so that the Turks by no means can conquer it.  
From this I'll I came to Palmosa, sometime Pathmos, which is a Mountainous and barren Island: It was here that Saint john wrote the Revelation after he was banished by Domitianus the Emperor. Thence I embarked to Nicaria, and sailed by the I'll Scyro; which of old was the Signory of Licomedes, and in the habit of a woman, was Achilles brought up here: who in that time, begot Pyrrhus upon Deidamia, the daughter of Licomedes, and where the crafty Ulysses did discover this fatal Prince to Troy. 
Nicaria.  As we fetched up the sight of Nicaria, we espied two Turkish Galliots, who gave us the Chase, and pursued us, strait unto a bay, betwixt two Mountains, where we left the loaded Boat, and fled to the Rocks: But in our flying, 
greeks taken captives.  the Master was taken, and other two old men; whom they made captives, and slaves: and also seized upon the Boat, and all their goods: The number that escaped, were nine persons. This Isle Nicaria, was anciently called Doliche, and Ithiosa, and is somewhat barren; having no Seaport at all: It was here, the Poets feigned, 
Icarus.  that Icarus the son of Dedalus fell, when as he took flight from Creta, with his borrowed wings, of whom it hath the name. Expecting certain days here, in a village called Lephantos, for passage to Sio, at last I found a Brigandino bound thither, that was come from the fruitful I'll of Stalimene, of old Lemnos, wherein I embarked, and sailed by the I'll Samos, which is opposite to Caria, in Asia Minor: It is of circuit one hundred and sixty, and of length forty miles: It was of old named Dri●sa, and Melanphilo, in which was Phythagoras the Phylospher, and Lycaon the excellent Musitien borne.  
As we left the I'll Veneco on our left hand, and entered in the Gulf between Sio, and Eolida, there fell down a deadly storm, at the Greco è Levante, which split our Mast, carrying Sails and all overboard: Whereupon every man looked (as it were) with the stamp of death in his pale visage. The Tempest continuing (our Boat not being able to keep the Seas) we were constrained to seek into a creak, betwixt two Rocks, for safety of our lives; where, when we entered, there was no likelihood of relief: for we had a shelfie shore, and giving ground to the Anchors they came both home. The sorrowful Master seeing nothing but shipwreck, took the Helm in hand, directing his course to rush upon the face of a low Rock, whereupon the Sea most fearfully broke. As we touched, the Mariners contending who should first leap out, some fell overboard, and those that got Land, were pulled back by the reciprocating waves: Neither in all this time durst I once move; for they had formerly sworn, if I pressed to escape, before the rest were first forth, they would throw me headlong into the Sea: So, being two ways in danger of death, I patiently offered up my prayers to God.  
At our first encounter with the Rocks (our fore-deckes, and boats Gallery being broke, and a great leak made) the recoiling waves brought us back from the Shelves a great way; which the poor Master perceiving, and that there were seven men drowned, and eleven persons alive, cried with a loud voice: Be of good cheer, take up Oars and row hastily; it may be, before the Bark sink, we attain to yonder Cave. 
Shipwreck.  Every man working for his own deliverance (as it pleased God) we got the same with good fortune: for no sooner were we dis-barked, but the Boat immediate sunk. There was nothing saved but my Coffino, which I kept always in my Arms; for the which of my things, the greeks were in admiration. In this Cave, which was thirty paces long, within the Mountain, we abode three days, without both meat and drink: upon the fourth day at Morn, the Tempest ceasing, there came Fisher-boats to relieve us, who found the ten Greekes almost famished for lack of food; but I in that hunger-staruing fear, fed upon the expectation of my doubtful relief. True it is, a miserable thing it is for a man, to grow an example to others, in matters of affliction, yet it is necessary that some men should be so: For it pleased God, having shown a sensible disposition of favour upon me, in humbling me to the very pit of extremities, taught me also by such an expected deliverance, both to put my confidence in his eternal goodness, and to know the frailty of my own self, and my ambition, which drove me often to such disasters.  
The dead men being found on shore, we buried them; and I learned at that instant time, there were seventeen boats cast away, on the Coast of this Island, and never a man saved: in this place the greeks set up a stone Cross in the memorial of such a woeful mischance, and mourned heavily, fasting and praying. I rejoicing, and thanking God for my safety (leaving them sorrowing for their friends and good) took journey through the Island to Sio, for so is the City called. In my way I passed by an old Castle standing on a little Hill, named Gasbos, or Helias; where (as I was informed, by two greeks in my company) the Sepulchre of Homer was yet extant: For this is one of the seven Isles that contended for his birth: 
The Tomb of Homer.  And I willing to see it, entreated them to accompany me thither; where we came, we descended by sixteen degrees into a dark Cell, and passing that, we entered in another four-squared room, in which I saw an ancient tomb, whereon were engraven Greek letters, which we could not understand for their antiquity; but whether it was his Tomb or not, I do not know, but this they related.  
This Isle was first called Etalie, and Pythiosa: next Cios, Acts 20.15. And by Methrodorus, Chio, of Chione: but at this day Sio. 
Sio.  Not long ago it was under the Genueses, but now governed by Turks: It is of circuit, an hundred miles, and famous for the medicinable Mastic that groweth there on Trees: I saw many pleasant Gardens in it, which yield in great plenty, Oranges, Lemons, Apples, Pears, Prunes, Figs, Olives, Apricockes, Dates, Adam's Apples, excellent herbs, fair flowers, sweet honey, with store of Cypre and Mulbery-trees, and exceeding good silk is made here.  

The pride of Greekish Whores.  The women of the City Sio, are the most beautiful Dames, of all the greeks in the world, and greatly given to venery: They are for the most part exceeding proud, and sumptuous in apparel, and commonly go (even Artificers wives) in gowns of Satin and Taffeta; yea, of Cloth of Silver and Gold, and are adorned with precious stones, and Gems, and jewels about their necks, and hands: Their husbands are their Panders, and when they see any stranger arrive, they will presently demand of him, if he would have a Mistress: And so they make whores of their own wives, and are contented for a little gain, to wear horns: such are the base minds of ignominious Cuckolds. After some certain attendance, I embarked in a Carmoesalo, bound for Nigroponti, which was forth of my way to Constantinople; but because I would gladly have seen Macedonia, I followed that determination: In our way we sailed by Mytelene, an Island of old called Isa: next Lesbos: and lastly Mytelene, of Milet the son of Phoebus, Pythacus, one of the seven Sages of Greece, the most valiant Antimenides, and his brother Alceus the Poet, Theophrastus the Peripatetic Philosopher, Arion the learned Harper, and the she Poet Sappho, were borne in it.  
The Isles Sporades, are scattered in the Egean Sea, like as the Isles Orcadeses are in the North Seas of Scotland; but different in climate and fertility; for these Southeasterne Isles in Summer are extreme hot, producing generally (Nigroponti excepted) but a few Wines, Fruits, and Corns, 
The Isles of Orknay and Zetland.  scarce sufficient to sustain the Islanders. But these Northwesterne islands, in Summer, are neither hot nor cold, having most wholesome and temperate air; and do yield abundance of Corn, even more than to suffice the Inhabitants; which is yearly transported to the firm Land, and sold: They have also good store of cattle, and good cheap; and the best fishing that the whole Ocean yieldeth, is upon the coasts of Orknay and Zetland.  
In all these separated parts of the earth (which of themselves of old, made up a little Kingdom) you shall always find strong March Ale, and surpassing fine Aqua Vitae, with an infinite number of Coneys, which you may kill with Crossbow, or harquebus, every morning forth of your Chamber window, according to your pleasure in that pastime, which I have both practised myself, and seen practised by others; for they multiply so exceedingly that they dig even under the foundations of dwelling houses. 
The Orkadians are kind to strangers, bountiful in Table-cheere, and carousing of healths, and their women are generally fair, kind, and well complexionate.  Such is the will of God to bestow upon several places particular blessings, whereby he demonstrateth to man, the plentiful storehouse of his gracious providence, so many manner of ways upon earth distributed: all glory be to his incomprehensible goodness therefore. I have seldom seen in all my travels, more toward, and tractable people (I mean their Gentlemen) and better housekeepers; then be these Orkadians and Zetlanders: whereof, in the prime of my adolescency (by two voyages amongst these Northern Isles) I had the full proof and experience.  
Nigroponti was formerly called Euboea, next Albantes, and now is surnamed the Queen of Archipelago: It is separated from the firm Land of Thessaly with a narrow channel, over the which in one part there is a bridge, that passeth between the I'll, and the main continent, and under it runneth a marvelous swift current, or tide; Within half a mile of the bridge, I saw a Marble column, standing on the top of a little rock, whence (as the Islanders told me) Aristotle leapt in, and drowned himself, after that he could not conceive the reason, why this Channel so ebbed, and flowed. This I'll bringeth forth in abundance, all things requisite for human life, and decored with many goodly villages. From thence I arrived at a Town in Macedonia called Salonica, 
Salonica.  but of old Thessalonica, where I stayed five days, and was much made of by the Inhabitants: It is a City full of rich commodities, and is the principal place of Thessaly, which is a place of Macedon, together with Achaia, and Myrmedon, which are the other two Provinces of the same. There is an University of the jews here, who profess only the Hebrew tongue. About this City is the most fertile Country in all Greece.  
Greece of all the Kingdoms in Europe, hath been most famous, and highly renowned for many notable respects: It was first called Helles, next Grecia, of Grecus, who was once King thereof: The greeks, of all other Gentiles, were the first converted Christians, and are wonderful devout in their professed Religion: The Priests wear the hair of their heads hanging over their shoulders: Those that be the most sincere Religious men, abstain always from eating of flesh, contenting themselves with water, herbs, and bread: They differ much in ceremonies, and Principles of Religion, from the Papists, and the Computation of their Calendar, is as ours. They have four patriarchs, who govern the affairs of their Church, and also any civil dissensions, which happen amongst them, viz. one in Constantinople, another in Antiochia, the third in Alexandria, and the fourth in jerusalem. It is not needful for me to penetrate further in the condition of their estate, because it is no part of my intent in this Treatise. In Salonica I found a Germ, bound for Tenedos, in the which I embarked: As we sailed along the Thessalonian shore, I saw the two topped Hill Parnassus, where it was said the nine Muses haunted; 
Parnassus.  but as for the Fountain Helicon, I leave that to be searched, and seen by the imagination of Poets: For if it had been objected to my sight, like an insatiable drunkard, I should have drunk up the streams of Poesy, to have enlarged my poor Poetical vein.  
The Mountain itself is somewhat steep, and sterile, especially the two tops, the one whereof is dry, and sandy, signifying that Poets are always poor and needy: The other top is barren, and rocky, resembling the ingratitude of wretched and niggardly patrons: the vale between the tops is pleasant, and profitable, denoting the fruitful and delightful soil, which painful Poets, the Muse's Ploughmen, so industriously manure. A little more Eastward, as we fetched up the Coast of Achaia, the Master of the vessel showed me a ruinous village, and Castle, where he said the admired City of Thebes had been.  
Upon the third day from Salonica, 
Thebes.  we arrived in the road of Tenedos, which is an Island in the Sea Pontus, or Propontis: It hath a City called Tenedos, built by Tenes, which is a gallant place, having a Castle, and a fair Haven for all sorts of Uessels: It produceth good store of Wines, and the best supposed to be in all the Southeast parts of Europe. The Island is not big, but exceeding fertile, lying three miles from the place where Troy stood, as Virgil reported, Aenid. 2.  
Est in conspectu Tenedos, notissima fama insula.  
In Tenedos I met by accident, two French Merchants of Marseills, intending for Constantinople, who had lost their ship at Sio, when they were busy at venereal tilting, with their new elected Mistresses, and for a second remedy, were glad to come thither in a Turkish Carmoesalo. The like of this I have seen fall out with Seafaring men, Merchants, and Passengers, who buy sometimes their too much folly, with too dear a repentance. They, and I, resolving to view Troy, did hire a janisarie to be our conductor and protector, and a Greek to be our Interpreter. Where when we landed, we saw here and there many relics of old walls, as we traveled through these famous bounds. And as we were advanced toward the East part of Troy, our Greek brought us to many Tombs, which were mighty ruinous, and pointed us particularly to the Tombs of Hector, 
The Tombs of Troyans'.  Ajax, Achilles, Troilus, and many other valiant Champions, with the Toombs also of Hecuba, Cresseid, and other Trojan Dames: Well I wot, I saw infinite old Sepulchres, but for their particular names, and nomination of them, I suspend, neither could I believe my Interpreter, sith it is more than three thousand and odd years ago, that Troy was destroyed: He showed us also the ruins of King Priam's palace, and where Anchises the father of Aeneas dwelled. At the north-east corner of Troy, which is in sight of the Castles of Hellesponte, there is a gate yet standing, and a piece of a reasonable high wall; upon which I found three pieces of rusted money, which afterward I gave to the two younger brethren of the Duke of Florence.  

A description of Troy.  Where the pride of Phrygia stood, it is a most delectable plain, abounding now in corns, fruits, and wines, and may be called the garden of Anatolia: yet not populous, for there are but only five scattered villages, in all that bounds: The length of Troy hath been, as may be discerned, by the fundamental walls yet extant, about twenty miles: the ruins of which are come to that Poetical Proverb: Nunc seges est ubi Troia fuit.  
Leaving the fields of noble Ilium, we crossed the River of Simois, and dined at a village named Extetash: I remember, discharging one covenant with the janisary, who was not contented with the former condition, the Frenchmen making obstacle to pay that which I had given, the wrathful janisary be laboured them both with a cudgel, till the blood sprung from their heads, and compelled them to double his wages. This is one true note to a traveler (whereof I had the full experience afterward) that if he can not make his own part good, he must always at the first motion content these rascals, otherwise he will be constrained doubtless with strokes to give twice as much: for they make no account of conscience, nor ruled by the law of compassion, neither regard they a Christian more than a dog: but whatsoever extortion or injury they use against him, he must be French-like contented, bowing his head, and making a counterfeit show of thanks, and happy too oftentimes, if so he escape. Hence we arrived at the Castles called of old Sestos, and Abydos, which are two Fortresses opposite to other, 
Sestos and Abydos.  the one in Europe, the other in Asia, being a mile distant: They stand at the beginning of Hellesponte, and were also cognominate the Castles of Hero and Leander, which were erected in a commemoration of their admirable fidelity in love. But now they are commonly called the Castles of Gallipoly, yea, or rather the strength of Constantinople, between which, no ship may enter, without knowledge of the Captains. And at their return they must stay three days before they are permitted to go through. Betwixt the Castles and Constantinople, is about forty leagues: Here I left the two Frenchmen with a Greek Barbour, and embarked for Constantinople, in a Turkish Frigato.  
The first place of any note I saw, within these narrow Seas, was the ancient City of Gallipolis, the second seat of Thracia, which was first builded by Caius Caligula, and sometimes hath been inhabited by the Gauls: It was the first Town in Europe that the Turks conquered. As we sailed between Thracia and Bithynia, a learned Grecian that was in my company showed me Colchis, 
Colchis.  whence jason with the assistance of the Argonauts, and the aid of Medea's skill, did fetch the golden fleece. This Sea Hellespont took the name of Helles, and of the Country Pontus, joining to the same Sea, wherein are these three Countries, Armenia, Colchis, and Cappadocia. After we had fetched up the famous City of Chalcedon in Bithynia on our right hand, I beheld on our left hand, the prospect of that little world, the great City of Constantinople, which indeed yieldeth such an outward splendour to the amazed beholder of goodly Churches, stately Towers, gallant Stéeples, and other such things, whereof now the world make so great account, that the whole earth cannot equal it. Beholding these delectable objects, we entered in the Channel of Bosphorus, which divideth Perah from Constantinople. And arriving at Tapanau, where all the munition of the great Turk lieth, I bade farewell to my company, and went to a lodging to refresh myself till morning.   

A brief Description of the renowned City of Constantinople, together with the customs, manners, and religion of the Turks, their first beginning, and the birth of MAHOMET; and what opinion the mahometans have of Heaven and Hell.  
COnstantinople is the Metropolitan of Thracia, so called of Constantine the Emperor, who first enlarged the same: It was called of old Byzantium, but now by the Turks Stambolda, which signifieth in their language, 
The first building of Constantinople.  a large City. It was also called Ethuse, and by the greeks Stymbolis. This City (according to ancient Authors) was first sounded by the Lacedæmonians, who were conducted from Lacedaemon, by one Pausanias, about the year of the world 3294, which after their consultation with Apollo, where they should settle their abode and dwelling place, they came to Bithynia, and builded a City which was called Chalcedon. But the commodity of fishing falling out contrary to their expectation, in respect the fishes were afraid of the white banks of the City, the Captain Pausanias left that place, and builded Byzantium in Thracia, which first was by him entitled Ligos. By Pliny, justine, and Strabo, it was surnamed Vrbs Illustrissima, because it is replete with all the blessings earth can give to man; yea and in the most fertile soil of Europe. Zonara's reporteth that the Athenians in an ambitious and insatiable desire of Sovereignty, wonno it from the Lacedæmonians: they thus being vanquished, suborned Severus the Roman Emperor to besiege the same: but the City Byzantium being strongly fortified with walls, the Romans could not take it in, until extreme famine constrained them to yield after three years siege: And Severus to satisfy his cruelty, put all to the sword that were within, 
Byzantium ruined by Severus the Emperor.  and razed the walls, giving it in possession to the neighbouring Perinthians. This City thus remained in calamity till Constantine (resigning the City of Rome, and a great part of Italy to the Popish inheritance of the Roman Bishops) re-edified the same, and translated his Imperial seat in the East, and reduced all the Empire of Greece to an unite tranquillity, with immortal reputation, which the Parthians and Persians had so miserably disquieted.  
But these disorders at length reform by the severe administration of justice, for the which, and other worthy respects, the said Constantine, son of S. Helen, and Emperor of Rome, (which after the Popes usurped) was surnamed the Great. He first in his plantation called this City New Rome; but when he beheld the flourishing and multiplying of all things in it, and because of the commodious situation thereof, he called it Constantinopolis, after his own name. This Emperor lived there many prosperous years, in a most happy estate: Likewise many of his successors did, until such time that Mahomet, the second of that name, and Emherour of the Turks, living in a discontented humour, to behold the great and glorious dominions of Christians, especially this famous City, that so flourished in his eyes, by moment all circumstances, collected his cruel intentions to the full height of ambition; whereby he might abolish the very name of Christianity, and also puffed up with a presumptuous desire to enlarge his Empire, went with a marvelous power both by Sea and Land, unto this magnificent mansion. The issue whereof was such, that after divers batteries and assaults, the irreligious Infidels broke down the walls, and entered the Citle, where they made a wonderful massacre of poor afflicted Christians, without sparing any of the Roman kind, either male or female. In the merciless fury of these infernal Imps, the Emperor Constantine was killed, whose head being cut off, 
The death of Constantine the Emperor.  was carried upon the point of a Lance, through all the City and Camp of the Turks, to the great disgrace and ignominy of Christianity. His Empress, Daughters, and other Ladies were put to death after a strange form of new devised torments. By this overthrow of Constantinople, this Mahomet took twelve kingdoms, and two hundred Cities from the Christians, which is a lamentable loss, of such an illustrious Empire. Thus was that Imperial City lost, in the year 1453. May 29. when it had remained under the government of Christians 1198 years. It is now the chief abode of the great Turk Sultan Acomet, the 15 Grand Can, of the line of Ottoman, living at this day, who is about 23 years of age; a man more given to venery then martiality, which giveth presently a greater advantage to the Persians in their instant wars.  
The form or situation of this City, is like unto a triangle, the South part whereof, and the East part, are environed with Hellespontus, and Bosphorus Thraicus; and the North part adjoining to the firm land. It is in compass about the Walls, esteemed to be 18 miles: in one of these triangled points standeth the Palace of the great Turk, called Seralia, and the Forest wherein he hunteth, which is two miles in length. The special object of antiquity I saw within this City, was the incomparable Church of S. Sophia, whose ornaments and hallowed vessels were innumerable, in the time of justinian the Emperor, who first builded it; but now converted to a Mosque, and consecrate to Mahomet after a Diabolical manner. I saw also the famous Hypprodome, and the Theatre whereon the people stood when the Emperors used to run their horses, and make their Princely shows, on solemn days, which is now altogether decayed. There is a great Column in that same place, in the which all those things memorable that have been done in this Hyppodrome, are superficially carved.  
Upon the West corner of the City, there is a strong Fortress, fortified with seven great Towers, and well furnished with munition, called by Turks, jadileke: In this prison are Bashaws and Subbashaws imprisoned, 
Presoun.  and also great men of Christians, if any offence be committed. Their place of exchange is called Bezastan, wherein all sorts of commodities are to be sold; as Satins, Silks, Velvets, Cloth of Silver and Gold, and the most exquisitely wrought handkerchiffes, that can be found in the world; with other infinite commodities, the relation of which would be tedious.  
I have seen men and women as usually sold here in markets, as horses, and other beasts are with us. The most part of which are Hungarians, Transylvanians, and Bohemians, captives, and of other places beside, which they overcome. Whom, if no compassionable Christian will buy, or or relieve; then must they either turn Turk, or be addicted to perpetual slavery. In Constantinople there have happened many fearful fires, which often have consumed to ashes the most part of the rarest monuments there, and the beauty of infinite palaces, as Zonoras' the Constantinopolitan Historiographer in his Histories mentioneth. And now lately in the year 1607. October 14. there were burned above 3000 houses, of which I saw a number of ruins (as yet) unrepaired. It is subject also to divers earthquakes, which have often subverted the Towers, Houses, Churches, and walls of the City to the ground. Especially in the year 1509. in the reign of Bajazeth the ninth Emperor of the Turks, in which time more than 13000 persons were all smothered and dead, and laid up in heaps unburied. And commonly every third year, the pestilence is exceeding great in that City, and after such an odious manner, that those who are infected (before they die) have the half of their one side rot, and fall away: so that you may easily discern the whole entrails of their bodies. It is not licentiated that any Christian should enter in a Turkish Moskée, without the conduct of a janisary, the trial whereof I had when I viewed S. Sophia.  
Perah is over against Constantinople, called of old Cornubizantium; but by the Turks Galata: It is the place at which Christian ships touch, and where the Ambassadors of Christendom lie. From thence I went to the black sea: but commonly called, Mare Euxinum, where I saw Pompey's pillar of marble, standing near to the shore, upon a rocky Island; 
Lantern.  and not far from hence, is a Lantern higher than any steeple, whereon there is a pan full of liquor, that burneth every night, to give warning unto ships how near they come to shore: It is not much unlike these Lanterns of Lighorne and Genua. The water of this sea is never a whit blacker than other seas; but it is called black in respect of the dangerous events in dark and tempestuous nights, which happen there; and because of the rocks and sands which lie a great way from the main shore; upon which many vessels are cast away. The black sea is not far from Galata, for I both went and returned in one day.  
The Turks have no bells in their Churches, neither the use of a clock, nor numbering of hours; but they have high round Stéeples, for they contrafact and contradict all the forms of Christians; when they go to pray, they are called together by the voice of crying men, who go up on the bartizing of their Stéeples, shouting and crying with a shrill voice: La illa, Eillala, Mahomet Rezul alla, that is, God is a great God, and Mahomet is his Prophet, or otherwise there is but one God.  
In Constantinople, and many other places of Turkey, I have seen three Sabbath days together in one week: the Friday for the Turks, the Saturday for jews, and the Sunday for the Christians; but the Turks Sabbath is worst kept of all: for they will not spare to do any labour upon their holy day. They have meetings at their public prayers every day five several times: the first is, before the rising of the Sun: the second is, a little before midday: the third is, at three of the clock afternoon: the fourth is at Sunsetting, Summer and Winter: Fifthly, the last hour of prayer is always two or three hours within night. Many of them will watch till that time, and not sleep, and others sleeping, will awake at the voice of the Crier, and go to Church.  
In sign of reverence, and in a superstitious devotion, before they go into their Mosques, they wash themselves in a Lavatoire, beginning at the privy members, next their mouths, faces, feet and hands: And entering, they incline their heads downward to the earth; and falling on their knees, 
Superstition.  do kiss the ground three times. Then the Talasumany, which is the chief Priest, mounteth upon a high stone, where he maketh many Orations to Mahomet: and the rest to assist him, continue a long time shaking their heads, as though they were out of all natural understanding, repeating oft this word, Haylamo, Haylamo; and after that will sigh grievously, saying Houpek. And sometimes will abruptly sing the Psalms of David in the Arabic tongue, but to no sense, nor verity of the Scriptures. And at their devotion, they will not tolerate any women in their company, lest they should withdraw their minds and affection from their present zeal. The Churchmen are called Hadach Casseis, or Daruises, who wear on their heads green Sashes, to make distinction between them and others: for they are accounted to be of Mahomet's kindred.  
They hold all mad men in great reverence, as Prophets, or Saints, and if they intent any far journey, private purposes; or otherwise, before they go to battle, they come to crave counsel of these Santones, to know if they shall prosper, or not in their attempts. And whatsoever answer these Bedleem Prophets give, it is holden to be so credible, as if an Oracle had spoken it. The Turkish Priests are for the most part Moors, whom they account to be a base people in respect of themselves, calling them Totseks. All Turks do detest the colour of black, and think those that wear it, shall never enter into Paradise. But the colour of greatest request among them, is green; wherewith if any Christian shall be appareled, he shall be sure of Bastinadoes, and other punishments: Neither may he use the name of their Prophet Mahomet in his mouth, (under the pain of a cruel censure to be inflicted upon him) whom they so much adore and honour.  

The birth of Mahomet.  This Mahomet was borne Anno Dom. 591. in Itraripia, a beggarly village in Arabia, whose father was Abdallas, an Ismalite; and his mother Cadiges a jew; both different in religion, and also of divers Countries. In his youth he was partly taught the judaical law, and partly the superstition of the Gentiles. Many allege his parentage was never known (being so base) until his riper years bewrayed the same. I also learned, that his parents died whiles he was a young child, and was turned over to his uncle, who after sold him to one Abdominoples, a Merchant in Palestina: And he, after a little time, having remarked his ready and prompt wit, sent him down to Egypt, to be a Factor in his merchandise; where, by his dissimulate behaviour he crept in favour with Christians, jews, and Gentiles. He was in proportion of a mean stature, lively faced, big-headed, eloquent in language, of a sanguinical complexion, and a courageous stomach, in all attempts exceeding desperate: he was also deceitful, variant, and fraudulent, as may appear in his Satanical Fables, expressed in his Alcoran, where oft one saying contradicteth another, both in words and effect.  
About this time there was one Sergius, an Italian Monk, banished from Constantinople, because he allowed of the Arrian sect: who afterward came to Palestina, and frequenting the house of Abdeminoples, fell in acquaintance with the young man Mahomet; and this Friar perceiving the aspiring quickness of his brain, bore a great affection to his natural perfections. Shortly after this, his Master dying, without heirs, and his Mistress enjoying many rich possessions: she, for these his extraordinary qualities, from the degree of a servant, advanced him to be her own husband. That unhappy match was no sooner done, but she repented it with tears; for he being subject to the falling sickness, would often fall flat on the ground, before her, staring, gaping, and foaming at the mouth, so that his company became loathsome and detestable: The which begun contempt in his bedfellow, being to him manifested, he strove (under the shadow of invented lies) to mitigate the fury of her hateful disdain, feigning and attesting, that when he fell to the ground, it was the great God spoke with him, 
The dissimulation of the false Prophet Mahomet.  before whose faith (saith he) I am not able to stand; such is his soliciting of me, with words of terror and Majesty, to reform the ways of the degenerate people with fire and sword, sith Moses and Christ (notwithstanding of their Miracles) have been rejected by the world. The old Trot believing all these flattering speeches, was not only appeased of her former conceit, but also loving him more than a husband, reverenced him for a divine Prophet, imparting the same unto her neighbours and Gossips. After they had lived two years together, the bewitched Matron dying, left all her rich possessions to Mahomet; both because she accounted him to be a Prophet, and next for that loving regard she had of his tender body, being but thirty years of age. He being thus left with great riches, was puffed up in pride, and haughty desires, striving by all inordinary means, to bring his new devised plots to perfection: For the better performance whereof, he consulted with this Sergius, 
Mahomet, Sergius, & a Thalmudist a jew, the three treacherous companions, and main pillars of a damnable Alcoran.  and another Thalmudist, a diverted jew; hereupon these two hellhounds, and the other perversed Runagate, patched up a most monstrous and devilish Religion to themselves, and to their miscreant believers: partly composed of the judaical Law, partly of arianism, and partly intermixed with some points of Christianity.  
This new coined doctrine, was no sooner wrapped up in his execrable Alcoran, but he began to spit forth his abominable and blasphemous heresies: Affirming, that Christ was not the Son of the most High, nor that Messias looked for; denying also the Trinity, with many other profane blasphemies. The work concluded, for the better advancement of his purpose, he married the daughter of the chief Prince of his own Tribe: By which new affinity, he not only seduced his Father-in-law, but also the whole lineage of that family; by whose acceptance and conversion, he also confederated with other associates, and waxed daily stronger. Contending continually to divulgate his name, ay more and more, he assembled his new Alcoranists, exhorting them to assist him in the besieging of Mecha, which Citizens had in derision rebuked his Law, and absolutely disdained his mahometical illusions: and promised to them, in such a well-deserving attempt, both etenall felicity, and the spoils of his contradictors; perswasively assuring them, 
Illusions of Mahomet.  that God would deliver all the gainsayers of his Alcoran into his hands. By the which allurements they being moved, rose to the number of three thousand in Arms, and menaced Mecha, but the Citizens put him to flight, and so was he thrice served; till in the end he won their City: wherein, after his death, he was entoombed in an Iron Coffin: Which between two Adamants hangeth to this day (as I have been informed of sundry Turks who saw it) which confirmed in them a solid belief of his erroneous doctrine.  
I have seen sometimes two thousand Turks traveling to Mecha, in pilgrimage; which is in Arabia Felix; where many in a superstitious devotion, having seen the Tomb of Mahomet, are never desirous to see the vanities of the world again: for in a frantic piety they cause a Smith to pull forth their eyes: And these men are called afterward Hoggeiss, that is, Holy men▪ whom the Turks much honour and regard.  
Some write, that Mahomet in his youth, was a Soldier, under the conduct of Heraclius; and some mutinies happening in the Army, he, with certain Arabians, his Countrymen, by faction, separated themselves: whereupon, Mahomet, encouraging them in their defection, was chosen their Captain; and so for a certain time they continued rebellious Runagates, thieves, and Robbers of all people.  
The subtlety of this dissembler was admirable; who knowing that he was destitute of heavenly gifts, to work miracles, feigned that God sent him with the Sword. He also promised, at the end of a thousand years to return, and bring them to Paradise; but he hath falsified his promise, for the time is expired twenty three years ago. And they imagining, that he is either diseased, or become lame in his journey, have ascribed to him another thousand years to come. But long may their wicked and faithless generation gape, before he come, till such time, that in a general convocation, they be partakers of his endless damnation in hell; unless it please the Lord in his mercy, to convert them, before that time.  
Mahomet, chiefly prohibiteth in his Alcoran, the eating of Swine's flesh, and drinking of wine, which indeed the best sort do, but their base kind are daily drunkards: Their common drink is Sherpet, composed of water, honey, and sugar, which is exceeding delectable in the taste: And the usual courtesy they bestow on their friends, who visit them, is a Cup of Coffa, made of a kind of seed called Coava, and of a blackish colour, which they drink so hot as possible they can, and is good to expel the crudity of raw meats, and herbs, so much by them frequented. And those that cannot attain to this liquor, must be contented with the cooling streams of water.  
It is incident to Turks, which have not that generosity of mind, to temper felicity, to be glutted with the superfluous fruits of doubtful prosperity: Neither have they a patient resolution to withstand adversity, nor hope to expect the better alteration of time. But by an infused malice in their wicked spirits, when they are any way calamited, will with importunate compulsion, cause the poor slavish subjecteth Christians, surrender all they have, the half, or so forth, sometimes with strokes, menacings, and sometimes death itself; which plainly doth demonstrate their excessive cruelty, and the poor Christians inevitable misery.  
I have often heard Turk's brawl one with another, most vilely, but I never saw, or heard, that they either in private or public quarrels, durst strike one another; neither dare they, for fear of severe punishment imposed to such quarrelers: But they will injure and strike Christians, who dare not say it is amiss, 
Cruelty of Turks toward their servants. They also punish malefactors three manner of ways, according to the heinousness of the offence most severely, which I have here omitted to relate.  nor strike again. It is a common thing with them, to kill their servants for a very small offence, and when they have done throw them like dogs in a ditch. And oftentimes (if not so) will lay them down on their backs, hoisting up their heels, bind their feet together, and fasten them to a post, and with a cudgel give them three or four hundred blows on the soles of their feet; whereupon, peradventure, some ever go lame after.  
Their servants are bought, and sold, like bruit beasts in markets; neither can these miserable drudges ever recover liberty, except they buy themselves free, either by one mean or other.  
Their wives are not far from the like servitude, for the men by the Alcoran are admitted to marry as many women as they will, or their ability can keep. And if it shall happen, that any one of these women (I mean either wife or concubine) prostituteth herself to another besides her husband; then may he by authority, bind her hands and feet, hang a stone about her neck, and cast her into a river, which by them is usually done in the night.  
But when those Infidels please to abuse poor Christian women against their husband's will, they little regard the transgression of the Christian Law, who as well deflower their daughters as their wives, yet the devout Mahometans never meddle with them, accounting themselves damned to copulate (as they think) with the offspring of dogs: The Turks generally, when they commit any copulation with Christians, or their own Sex, they wash themselves in a South-running fountain, before the Sunrising, thinking thereby to wash away their sins.  
But now to return to the Turks: 
The marriage of Turks.  Their custom and manner of marriage is this: If a man affecteth a young maid, he buyeth her of her parents, and giveth a good sum of money for her, and after she is bought, he enrolles her name in the Cadies' book, witnessing she is his bond wife, bought of her father. Lo this is all the form of their Marriage: This being done the father of the woman sendeth household-stuff home with the Bride, which is carried through the streets on Mulets or Camels backs, the two new married folks marching before, are conveyed with Music, their own acquaintance and friends, unto his house.  
The Turks in general, whensoever they loathe or dislike their wives, use to sell them in Markets, or otherwise bestow them, on their men-slaves: And although their affection were never so great toward them, yet they never eat together, for commonly the women stand, and serve their husbands at meat, and after that they eat apart by themselves, secretly, without admission of any mankind in their company, if they be above fourteen years of age, They go seldom abroad, unless it be each Thursday at night, when they go to the Graves to mourn for the dead, always covering their faces, very modestly with white or black masks, which are never uncovered, till they return to their houses.  
Many other ceremonies they have, which would be too prolix for me to recite. And notwithstanding of all this exernal gravity, amongst these hirelings, yet there are in Constantinople, above 40000 brothelhouses, Turqueski, 'tis Libertines; in any of which, if a Christian, (especially Franckes) be apprehended, he must either turn Turk, or lave, all his life: But the women by a policy apply a counterpoison to this severity, for they accustomably come to the Chambers of their Benefactors and Well-willers, or other places appointed secretly, where so they learn either a French Syncopa, or an Italian Bergemasko.  
The Lent of the Turks is called Byrham, which continueth the space of a month once in the year: in all which time, from the Sun rising to his setting, they neither eat nor drink: And at their prayers (especially in this fasting) they use often to reiterate these words, Hue, hue, hue, that is; He he he, alone is God; or There is but one only supreme Power; which they do in deriston of Christians, who (as they say) adore three Gods. They have also this sinister opinion, that at the day of judgement, when Mahomet shall appear, there shall be three displayed Banners, under the which all good people shall be conducted in Paradise. The one of MOSES, under the which the children of Israel shall be: The second of JESUS, under which Christians shall be: The third of Mahomet, under the which shall be the Arabs, Turks, Moors, and Musilmans: All which, they think, shall be elevated to several honours; And they in promotion shall be discerned from the rest, by chambers made of replendant light, which God will give them; wherein they shall have banquet, feastings, dancing, and the best melody can be devised.  
They hold also this, as a confident Article of their Belief, that there are seven Paradises in heaven, the pavements whereof are laid with gold, 
Seven Paradises.  silver, pearls, precious stones, and garnished with stately buildings, and pleasant gardens, wherein are all sorts of fruit, and Princely Palaces; through the which run rivers of milk, honey, and wine. The first Paradise, they call it Genete Alcholde, the second Alfirduzy, the third Anthinak, the fourth Reduasch, the fifth Azelem, the sixth Alcodush, that is, holy; and the seventh Almega, that is, the greatest. And that in the midst of this last Paradise, there is a stately tree called Tubah, the leaf of which, is partly of gold, and partly of silver; whose boughs extend round about the walls of this seventh Paradise, whereon the name of Mahomet is written, near to the name of God, in these words, Alla, illa, he, allah, Mahomet Rezul allah. The which words are in such reverence amongst the Turks, that a Christian should happen, unadvisedly to repeat them, he is adjudged to a most cruel death, or compulsed to renounce his Christian Religion.  
As concerning their opinion of Hell, 
The opinion Turks have of Hell.  they hold it to be deep Gulf, betwixt two Mountains: from the mouth whereof are Dragons, that continually throw fire, being large eight leagues, and hath a dark entry, where the horrible fiends meet the perplexed sinners, convoying them till they come to a Bridge that is so narrow as the edge of a razor: whereupon those who have not committed heinous offences, may pass over to hell, but those who have done buggery (as the most part of them do) and homicide, shall fall headlong from it, to the profoundest pit in Hell, where they shall sometimes burn in fire, and sometimes be cast into hot boiling water to be refreshed. And for the greater punishment of the wicked (say they) God hath planted a try in Hell, named Saiaratash or Roozo Saytanah, that is, the head of the Devil, upon the fruit of which, the damned continually feed: Mahomet in one of the chapters of his Alcoran calleth this try, The try of Malediction.  
They also think the tormented souls may one day be saved, providing they do endure the scorching flames of Hell patiently. Thus, as briefly as I could, have I laid open the opinion of the Turks, concerning their Hell and Heaven, before the eyes of these, who peradventure have never been acquainted with such a Ghostly Discourse.  

The beginning of the Turks.  The original of the Turks, is said to have been in Scythia, from whence they came to Arabia Petrea, and giving battle oft to the Saracens, in the end subdued them, and so they multiplied, and mightily increased: the appearance of their further increasing, is very evident except God of his mercy towards us prevent their bloodsucking threatenings, with the vengeance of his just judgements.  
The Saracens are descended of Esau, who after he had lost the blessing, went and inhabited in Arabia Petrea; and his posterity, striving to make a clear distinction between them, the Ismalites, and jews, called themselves (as come of Sara) Sarazens; and not of Hagar, the handmaid of Abraham, of whom came the Ismaelites, neither of the race of jacob, of whom came the jews. But now the Saracens being joined with the Turks, their Conquerors, have both lost their name, and the right of their descent.  
The puissance of the great Turk is admirable, yet the most part of his Kingdoms in Asia, are not well inhabited, neither populous, but these parts which border with Christians, are strongly fortified with Castles, People, and Munition: If Christian Princes could concord, and consult together, it were a easy thing in one year, to subdue the Turks, and root out their very names from the earth; yea, moreover, I am certified, that there are more Christians, even slaves and subjects to the great Turk, which do inhabit his Dominions, than might overthrow and conquer these Infidels, if they had worthy Captains, Governors, and furniture of Arms; without the help of any Christian of Christendom.  
Amongst the Turks there is no Gentility nor Nobility, but are all as ignoble and inferior members to one main body the great Turk, lineally descended from the house of Ottoman: 
His concubines convene once a day, and are ranked in a Hall, which he doth survey after his own pleasure, making a sign to her whom he affecteth, who goeth presently with him to his adulterate cabin of lascivious lechery.  whose magnificence, puissance, and power, is such, that the most eloquent tongue cannot sufficiently declare: his thousands of janissaries, Shouses, and others daily attending him, his hundreds (besides his Queen) of Concubines hourly maintained by him, his Armies, Bashaws, Garrisons and forces here and there dispersed amongst his dominions, would be impossible for me briefly to relate. The inhuman policy of the Turks to avoid civil dissension, is such, that the seed of Ottoman (all except one of them) are strangled to death: wherefore as Augustus Cesar said of Herod in the like case, It is better to be the great Turk's dog, than his son. His daughters or sisters, are not so used, but are given in marriage to any Bashaw whom so they affect; yet with this condition; the King saith to his daughter or sister, I give thee this man to be (at all times) thy slave; and if he offend thee in any case, or be disobedient to thy will, here I give thee a dagger to cut off his head; which always they wear by their sides for the same purpose.  
The Persians differ much from the Turks, in nobility, humanity, and activity, and especially in points of religion, who by contention think each other accursed; and notwithstanding both factions are under the mahometanical Law. Neither are the sons of the Persian Kings so barbarously handled as theirs: for all the brethren (one excepted) are only made blind, wanting their eyes, and are always afterward gallantly maintained, like Princes. And it hath oftentimes fallen out, that some of these Kings dying without procreate heirs; there have of these blind sons succeeded to the Empire, who have restored again the seed of that royal family.   

A Description of his Travels into Asia Maior, Cyprus, and the Carpathian Isles, the reason why he was disappointed of his purpose, being so near Babylon, of the beauty of Damascus, of the nature of Arabians, and of his return to jerusalem.  
DEparting from Constantinople; I came to Cenchrea, being 300 miles distant, where S. Paul cut his hair, after his vow was performed, Act. 18.18. From thence I went to Smyrna, 
Smyrna.  in Carmania, a famous Kingdom in Asia the lesser: This City was one of the seven Churches mentioned Revel. 2.8. It is a goodly place, having a fair haven for ships: they have great Traffic with all Nations, especially for the fine Silk, cotton-wool, and Dimmetie, brought to it by the Country Peasants, which strangers buy from them. Truly near unto this City, I saw such a long continuing Plain, abounding in Corn, Wines, all sorts of fruitful Herbage, and so infinitely peopled, that me thought Nature seemed, with the people's industry to contend, the one by propagating creatures, the other by admirable agriculture.  
Thiatyra, now called Tiria, one also of the seven Churches, is not far hence.  
From this City I embarked in a Turkish Carmoesalo, bound for Rhodes. In our sailing along the coast of Asia Minor, the first place of any note I saw, was the ruinous City of Ephesus; 
Ephesus.  yet somewhat inhabited, and pleasantly adorned with Gardens, fair Fields, and green Woods of Olive trees, which on the sea do yield a delectable prospect. It was one of the seven Churches, Revel. 2.1. overagainst this City is the I'll of Lango, anciently called Coos, wherein the great Hypocrates was borne, and Apelles the most excellent Painter. It is both fertile and populous, and of circuit about four score miles. There is a kind of Serpent said to be in it, so friendly unto the inhabitants that when the men are sleeping under the shadow of trees, they come crawling, and will link or clasp themselves about their necks and bodies, without doing any harm, neither when they awake are the beasts afraid. And near to Lango is the Isle Nixa, 
Nixa.  of old, Strangoli; and by some Dionysia, and Naxus, an Island both fruitful and delightful. As we failed by the West part of the I'll, a Greek passenger showed me the place, where (as he said) Ariadne was deceived of Theseus, which is not far from the irriguate plain of Darmille. Continuing our navigation, I saw a little Isle called Ephdosh, where the Turks told me, that all the Islanders were naturally good swimmers, paying no more tribute to their great Lord the Turk, save only once in the year, there are certain men and women chosen by a Turkish Captain, who must swim a whole league outright in the sea, and go down to the bottom of the waters, to fetch thence some token they have got ground: And if they shall happen to fail in this, the Island will be reduced again to pay him yearly rent. This I saw with mine eyes, whiles we being calmed, there came a man and two women swimming to us, more than a mile of way, carrying with them (dry above the water) baskets of fruit to sell, the which made me not a little to wonder. Contenting them for their ware, upon the ninth day after our departure from Smyrna, we arrived at the City of Rhodes, so called of the Island wherein it standeth.  
Rhodes lieth the Carpathian sea: It was of old called Ithrea, 
Rhodes.  Telchino, and Phiula: Pliny saith it was called Rhodes, because there were certain fields of roses in it; for Rhodes in the Greek tongue signifieth a flower; Not far from the City, I saw the relics of that huge, and admiredly-erected idle, named Colossus, from the which Saint Paul termed the inhabitants Colossians. 
The great Colosse.  It was builded by the worthy Canete Lindo, others have said, of Callasses the disciple of Lisippus, taking the name Colossus of him, and it was thought worthy to be one of the seven earthly wonders, and so it might justly have been: The quantity whereof (as yet) may amaze the mind of the beholder. This I'll belonged once to the Knights of Malta, and were then surnamed Knights of the Rhodes, but they came first out of Acre in the Holy Land; who were called Knights of Saint john. The City hath two strong Fortresses, in one of which these Knights (who were about five hundred only, and five thousand Rhodians who assisted them) were besieged with an Army of two hundred thousand Turks, and three hundred Galleys, for the space of six months. The chief obstacle and impeaching of so great an Army from taking it, was only the resolute valour of the defendants. But in the end, the Cavalieri di Rhodo wanting furniture to their munition, and being penurious of victuals, were constrained to render, upon the conditional safety of their lives, goods, and transportation; and remained a long time without any habitation, till the King of Spain gave them the barren I'll of Malta to inhabit. This I'll of Rhodes was lost by the Maltazes, Anno Dom. 1522. and ever since is in the fruition of Turks. The Fortress of Rhodes, and that Fortress of Famagosta in Cyprus, are the two strongest holds in all the Empire of the great Turk.  
After I had contented the Master for my fraught and victuals (who, as he was an Infidel, used me with an extraordinary exaction) I found a Bark of the Arches purposed to Cyprus, 
Tharsus, a decayed City in Cilicia, where Saint Paul was borne, in the chiefest seat of that Country  with the which I embarked, being 400. miles distant. Having past the gulf of Sattelia, we boarded close along the firm land of fruitful Pamphilia, and on the fifth day thereafter we fetched up the coast of Cilicia, sustaining many great dangers both of tempestuous storms, and invasions of damnable Pirates.  
Twelve days was I between Rhodes and Limisso in Cyprus; where arrived, I received more gracious demonstrations from the Islanders, than I could hope for, or wish, being far beyond my merit or expectation; only contenting my curiosity with a quiet mind, I redounded thanks for my embraced courtesies. The second day after my arrival, I took with me an Interpreter, and went to see Nicosia, which is placed in the midst of the kingdom. But in my journey thither, extreme was heat and thirst I endured; both in respect of the season, and also want of water. And although I had with me sufficiency of wine, yet durst I drink none thereof, being so strong, and withal hath a taste of pitch; and that is, because they have no barrels, but great jars made of earth, wherein their wine is put. Nicosia is the principal City of Cyprus, & is environed with mountains, like unto Florence in Aetruria; wherein the Uizier Bashaw remaineth. The second is Famagosta, the chief strength and seaport in it: Selina, Lemisso, Paphos, and Fontana Morosa, are the other four special Towns in the Island.  
This I'll of Cyprus was of old called Achametide, 
Cyprus.  Amatusa, and by some Machara: It is of length 210, and large 60. and of circuit 600 miles. In this I'll was Venus greatly honoured: It yieldeth infinite Canes of Sugar, strong Wines, and cotton-wool, besides all other sorts of fruit, in abundance. The Dukes of Savoy were once kings of Cyprus; but the inhabitants usurping authority, elected kings to themselves, of their own generation; & so it continued till the last king of Cyprus (marrying the daughter of a Venetian) died without children; & the Venetians taking the opportunity of time, brought home his wife to Venice, and sent Governors there to bear the sway in their behalf: It was under their jurisdiction 120 years & more, till that the Turks, who ever oppose themselves against Christians (finding a fit occasion in the time of peace, and without suspicion in the Venetians) took it in with a great Armado, in the year 1570. and so till this day by them is detained. Oh great pity! that the usurpers of God's word, and the world's great enemy, should maintain (without fear) that famous kingdom, being but 1500 Turks in all, who are the keepers of it: unspeakable is the calamity of that poor afflicted Christian people, under the terror of these Infidels: who would, if they had Arms or assistance of any Christian Potentate, easily subvert and abolish the Turks without any disturbance; yea and would render the whole Signiory thereof to such a noble Actor. I do not see in that small judgement which by experience I have got, but the redemption of that Country were most facile, if that the generous heart of any Christian Prince would be moved with condign compassion to relieve the miserable afflicted inhabitants. In which work he should reap (questionless) not only an infinite treasure of worldly commodities, that followeth upon so great a Conquest, but also a heavenly and eternal reward of immortal glory. 
An enterprise of the Florentines.  The which deliverance the Duke of Florence thought to have accomplished (having purchased the good will of the Islanders) with five Gallounes', and five thousand Soldiers: who being mindful to take first in the Fortress of Famagosta, directed so their course, that in the night they should have entered the Haven, disbarke their men, and scale the walls. But in this plot they were far disappointed by an unhappy Pilot of the Uiceadmirall; who mistaking the Port went into a wrong Bay: which the Florentines considering, resolved to return and keep the sea till the second night; but by a dead calm they were frustrated of their aims, and on the morrow discovered by the Castle: whereupon the Turks went presently to Arms, and charged the Inhabitants to come defend that place: But about four hundred greeks in the West part at Paphos, 
About 400 greeks were slughtered by the Turks in the year 1607  rebelled; thinking that time had altered their hard fortunes, by a new change: but were they prevented, and every one cut off, by the bloody hands of the Turks. This massacre was committed in the year 1607. Such always are the torturing flames of Fortune's smiles, that he who most affecteth her, she most, and altogether deceiveth: But they who trust in the Lord shall be as stable as Mount Zion which cannot be removed; and questionless, one day God, in his all-eternall mercy will relieve their miseries, and in his just judgements recompense these bloody oppressors with the heavy vengeance of his all-séeing justice.  
In my return from Nicosia to Famagosta, with my Trouchman, we encountered by the way with four Turks, who needs would have my horse to ride upon; which my Interpreter refused: But they in a revenge pulled me by the heels from the horse back, beating me most pitifully, and left me almost for dead. In this mean while my companion fled, and escaped the sceleratenesse of their hands; and if it had not been for some compassionable greeks, who by accident came by, and relieved me, I had (doubtless) immediately perished. From Famagosta I embarked in a Germ, 
Tripoli.  and arrived at Tripoli. Tripoli is a City in Syria, standing a mile from the marine side, near to the foot of Mount Libanus: since it hath been first founded, it hath three times been situated and removed in three sundry places: First, it was overwhelmed with water. Secondly, it was sacked with Cursares, and Pirates. Thirdly, it is now like to be overthrown with new made mountains of sand. There is no Haven by many miles near unto it, but a dangerous road, where often when Northerly winds blow, ships are cast away. The great traffic which now is at this place, was formerly at Scanderona, a little more Eastward; but by reason of the infectious air, that corrupteth the blood of strangers, proceeding of two high mountains, who are supposed to be part of mount Caucasus, which withhold the prospect of the Sun from the Indwellers, more than three hours in the morning. So that in my knowledge, I have known die in one ship, and a months time, twenty Mariners: for this cause the Christian Ships were glad to have their commodities brought to Tripoli, which is a more wholesome and convenient place.  
The daily interrogation I had here for a Caravans departure to Aleppo, was not to me a little fastidious, being mindful to visit Babylon. In this my expectation I took purpose with three Venetian Merchants, to go see the Cedars of Libanon, which was but a days journey thither. As we ascended upon the mountain, our ignorant guide mistaking the way, brought us in a labyrinth of dangers; insomuch that wrestling amongst intricate paths of rocks, two of our Asses fell over a bank and broke their necks: And if it had not been for a Christian Amaronite, who accidentally encountered with us, in our wilsum wandering, we had been miserably lost, both in regard of rocks, and heaps of snow we passed, and also of great torrents which fell down with force from the steepy tops, wherein one of these Merchants was twice almost drowned. When we arrived to the place where the Cedars grew, we saw but 24 of all, growing after the manner of Oak trees, but a great deal taller, straighter, and greater, and the branches grow so strait out, as though they were kept by Art.  

Cedars.  Although that in the days of Solomon this mountain was over-clad with forests of Cedars, yet now there are but only these, and 9 miles Westward thence 17 more. The nature of that tree is always green, yielding an odoriferous smell, and an excellent kind of fruit, like unto Apples, but of a sweeter taste, & more wholesome in digestion. The roots of some of these Cedars are almost destroyed by shepherds, who have made fires thereat, and holes wherein they sleep; yet nevertheless they flourish green above in the tops, and branches. The length of this mountain is about forty miles, reaching from the West to the East; and continually, Summer and Winter reserveth snow on the tops. It is also beautified with all the ornaments of nature, as herbage, tillage, pastorage, fructiferous trees, fine fountains, good Corns, and absolutely the best wine that is bred on the earth. The signor thereof is a freeholder, by birth a Turk, and will not acknowledge any superior, but the most part of the inhabited villages are Christians, called Amaronites, or Nostranes, quasi Nazaritans, and are governed by their own Patriarch. There are none at this day, do speak the Syriack tongue, save only these people of Mount Libanus; & in that Language the Alcoran of Mahomet is written. The kind Amaronite whom we met, and took with us for our best guide, in descending from the Cedars, showed us many caves and holes in rocks, where Colliers, 
Colliers' religious Greekes.  religious Sirens and Amaronites abide: Amongst these austere Cottages, I saw a fair Tomb all of one stone, being seventeen foot of length, which (as he said) was the sepulchre of the valiant joshua, who conducted the people of Israel in the land of promise.  
The Mahometans esteem this to be a holy place, and many resort to it in pilgrimage, to offer up their Satanical prayers to Mahomet. I saw upon this Mountain a sort of fruit, called Amazza franchi: that is, the death of Christians; because when Italians, or others of Europe, eat any quantity thereof, they presently fall into the bloody fluxes, or else engender some other pestilentious fever, whereof they die. The Patriarch did most kindly entertain us at his house; so did also all the Amaronites of the other villages, who met us in our way before we came to their Towns, and brought presents with them of Bread, Wine, Figs, Olives, Salads, Capons, Eggs, and such like, as they could on a sudden provide. About the village of Eden, is the most fruitful part of all Libanus, abounding in all sorts of delicious fruits. True it is, the variety of these things, maketh the silly people think, the Garden of Eden was there: By which allegiance, they approve the apprehension of such a sinistrous opinion, with these arguments; that Mount Libanus, is sequestrate from the circumiacent Regions, and is invincible for the height, and strengths they have in rocks; & that Eden was still re-edified by the fugitive inhabitants, when their enemies had ransacked it: Also they affirm, before the deluge it was so nominate, and after the flood it was repaired again by japhet, the son of Noah, who builded joppa, or japhta, in Palestina. Lo these are the reasons they show strangers for such like informations.  
There are with this one, other two supposed places of this earthly Paradise: the one is by the Turks, and some ignorant Georgians, holden to be at Damascus, for the beauty of fair fields, gardens, and excellent fruits there, especially for the tree called Mouslee, which they believe hath grown there since the beginning of the world. Indeed it is a rare and singular Tree, for I saw it at Damascus, and others also of the same kind, upon Nilus in Egypt: The growth whereof is strauge; for every year in September it is cut down hard by the root, and in five months the Tree buddeth up a pace again, bringing forth leaves, 
This Tree hath several virtues bearing but one Apple at once.  flowers, and fruit. The leaf thereof is of such a breadth, that three men may easily stand under the shadow of it, and the Apple is bigger than a football.  
The third place by the Chelfaines, is thought to be in the East part of Mesopotamia, near to the joining of Tigris, and Euphrates; where, so they inhabit. I have oft required of these Chelfaines, what reason they had for this conceived opinion: who answered me they received it from time to time, by the Tradition of their Ancestors; And because of the river Euphrates, and others rivers mentioned in the Scriptures, which to this day, detain their names in that Country. Some hold that Garden of Eden extended over all the earth. But contrariwise it manifestly appeareth by the second chapter of Genesis, verse twenty, that this Garden which we call Paradise, wherein Adam was put to dress it, was a certain place on earth, containing a particular portion of a Country, called Eden, which boundeth on the river Euphrates. To this, and all the rest, I answer, no certainty can be had of the place where Eden was, either by reading or traveling, because this river hath been oft divided in sundry streams: And it is said, that Cyrus, when he won Babylon, did turn the main channel of Euphrates to another course. But howsoever, or wheresoever it be, I resolve myself, no man can demonstrate the place, which God for the sins and fall of man, did not only accurse, but also the whole face of the earth.  
Many ancient Authors have agreed with the opinion of Plato and Aristotle, 
Divisions.  constantly affirming, that Mountains, islands, and Countries, have received great alteration by the inundation of rivers, and violence of raging seas. Thracia, hath been divided from Bithynia: Nigroponti, from Thessalia: Corfu from Epire: Sicilia, from Italy: The Isles Orcades, from Scotland, and many other islands, and Countries, cut through so in divisions after the same form. Wherefore the more a man contemplates to search the knowledge of Eden, and such high mysteries (appertaining only to the Creator) the more he shall fail in his purpose, offend God, and be esteemed fantastical for his pains.  
But to be brief, after my return to Tripoli, I departed thence Eastward, with a Caravan of Turks to Aleppo, being ten days journey distant. In all this way (leaving Scanderon and Antiochia on our left hand) I saw nothing worthy remarking, save only a few scattered villages, and poor miserable people, living in Tents, and following their Flocks, to whom I paid sundry Caffars: who remove their women, children, and cattle, where so they find Fountains, and good pastorage: like unto the custom of the ancient Israelites: which in their vagabonding fashion, did plainly demonstrate the necessity they had to live, rather than any pleasure they had in their living. The recitation of their ridiculous ceremonies, and devilish religion by them used, to avoid tediousness I omit.  
Before my arrival in Aleppo, 
Aleppo.  the Caravan of Babylon was from thence departed, which bred no small grief in my breast: the Venetian Consul, to whom I was highly recommended, by the aforesaid Merchants (having had some insight of my intended voyage) informed me that the Caravan stayed at Beershak on Euphrates, for some conceived report they had of Arabs, that lay for them in the Deserts, and willed me to hire a janisary, and three soldiers, to over-hie them; whose counsel I received: but was merely frustrated of my designs. True it was, they stayed, but were gone three days before my coming to that unhappy place. These my perjured consorts perceiving there was no ability to follow the Caravan any further, informed me, another company would arrive there shortly. But to what end did they this; Only, that by long attendance, they might suck the money from my purse, 
The abuses of Infidels.  which indeed was extraordinary chargeable. The abuses of these damnable helhounds my Protectors, the dangers I sustained in that barbarous village, and in my constrained return to Aleppo: to express I will not; but rather sepulchrize it in the pit of oblivion, lest the remembrance of former miseries, should be a renewing of fresh sorrows: knowing that I endured more trouble in that lost time, then in all my succeeding travails.  

A new intended voyage.  To be a recompense to this my former loss, I determined (God willing) not only to visit Babylon, which I so nearly lost, but also all the most famous kingdoms that border with the Indian, Persian, and Caspian seas. This Beershak is in Mesopotamia, and thought to have been Padan-Aram, where Laban dwelled: It standeth near to the joining of Tigris, 
Ninivy.  and swift running Euphrates, and not far hence is the demolished City of Ninivy on Tigris, whose very ruins are now come to ruin; the decay whereof, is semblable to that sacked Lacedaemon in Sparta.  

Mesopotamia.  Mesopotamia is seldom watered with rain, but by the nature of the soil is marvelous fruitful: It is boarded with Caldea, on the East: Euphrates, on the South: Syria, on the Norch: and Arabia Petrea on the West. This Aleppo is a City in Syria; the name of which hath been so oft changed by Turks, that the true Antiquity of it can hardly be known: It is both large and populous, and furnished with all sorts of Merchandise, especially of Indigo and spices, that is brought over land from Go, and other places in India, which draweth a concurrence of all Nations to it.  
In my expectation here (being disappointed of my desired aims) I pretended to visit jerusalem in my backe-comming; and for the furtherance of my determination, I joined with a Caravan of Armenians, and Turks, that were well guarded with janissaries, and Soldiers; of whom some were to stay at Damascus by the way, and some mindful to the furthest mark. And for my better safeguard (being always alone, which by all was ever much admired) the Uize Consul took surety of the Captain, that he should protect me safely from thieves, cut-throats, and the exactions of tributes by the way, delivering me freely into the hands of the Padre Guardiano at jerusalem: which being done, I hired two Mulets from a Turk▪ one to ride upon, and another to carry my victuals; and so set forward with them. The number of our company were about 900 Armenians, Christian pilgrims, men and women, 600 Turks, trafficking for their own business, and 100 Soldiers, three Schowsses, and six janissaries to keep them from invasions.  
Between Aleppo and Damascus, we had nine days journey, in five of which, we had pleasant traveling, and good Canes to lodge in, that had been builded for the support of Travelers, and are well maintained: But when we passed Hamsek, which is a little more than midway, we had dangerous traveling, being oft assailed with Arabs, fatigated with rocky Mountains, and sometimes in point of choking for lack of water. The confusion of this multitude was not only grievous in regard of the extreme heat, providing of victuals at poor villages, and scarcity of water to fill our bottles, made of boar skins, but also amongst narrow and stony passages, thronging, we oft fell one over another, in great heaps, in danger to be smothered: yea, and oftentimes, we that were Christians, had our bodies well beaten, by our conducting Turks. At our accustomed dismounting, to recreate ourselves, and refresh the beasts, I would often fetch a walk, to stretch my legs, that were stifled with a scumbling beast; wherewith the Turks were mightily discontented, 
The reposing of the Turks.  and in derision would laugh, and muck me: For they cannot abide a man to walk in turns, or stand to eat; their usage being such, that when they come from the Horse back, presently sit down on the ground, folding their feet under them, when they repose, dine, and sup. So do also their Artisans, and all Turks in the world sit always crosslegged, wrongfully abusing the commendable consuetudo of the industrious Tailors. In their houses they have no bed to lie on, nor chairs to sit on, nor Tables to eat on, but a bench made of Boards, along the house side, of a foot height from the floor, spread over with a Carpet, whereon they usually sit, eating, drinking, sleeping, resting, and doing of manual exercises, all in one place.  
They never unclothe themselves, when they go to rest, neither have they any bedcloathes, save only a coverlet above them: I have seen hundreds of them, after this manner, lie ranked like dirty swine, in a beastly sty; or loathsome jades, in a filthy stable. Upon the ninth day (leaving Cotafa behind us on the Mountains) we entered in a pleasant plain of three leagues in length, adorned with many villages, Gardens, and Rivers; and arriving at Damascus, we were all lodged (some in Chambers wanting beds, and others without, on hard stones) in a great Cane called Heramnen, where we stayed one day.  

Damascus.  Damascus is the capital City of Syria, called by Turks, Shamma, and is situated on a fair plain, and beautified with many Rivers on each side, (especially Pharpar and Abdenah) excellent Orchards, and all other natural objects of elegancy: That for situation, Artizens, all manner of commodities, and variety of fruits, in all the Asiaticall Provinces it is not paralleled. By Turks it is called the Garden of Turkey: Some hold this City was built by Eleazar the servant of Abraham; & others say it is the place where Cain slew Abel. But howsoever, I persuade thee it is a pleasant and gallant City, well walled, and fortified, with a strong Castle: the most part of the streets are covered, so that the Citizens are preserved in Summer from the heat, and in Winter from the rain. The like commodity (but not after that form) hath Padua in Lombardy: Their Bazar, or market place is also covered, so are commonly all the Bazars in Turkey: 
Fruits.  The best Carobiers', Adam's Apples, and Grenadiers that grow on the earth is here: Near unto the Bazar there is a Moskie, called Gemmah, wherein is (as my guide said) the Sepulchre of Ananias, and the Fountain where he baptised Paul: In another street, I saw the house of Ananias, which is but a hollow Cellar under the ground, and where the Disciples let Paul down through the wall in a basket. In the street where they sell their Viano, my Interpreter showed me a great gate of fine metal, which he said was one of the doors of the Temple of Solomon, and was transported thence, by the Tartarians, who conquered jerusalem about three hundred and eighty years age. I saw such abundance of Rose-water here in barrels, to be sold as beer or wine, is rife with us. For the custody of the aforesaid Castle, and neighbouring Countries, there are two thousand janissaries appointed, insomuch that the Bashaw of Damascus is the greatest in authority of all the other Bashaws in Asia: for under his commandment, in behalf of the great Turk, he detaineth Syria, Phoenicia, Samacia, Galilee, jerusalem, and all Palestina, even to the Deserts of Arabia: The means of the preservation of so great a state, is only by an induced confidence upon the power and force of those janissaries, who as well have their pay in time of tranquillity, as wars, to defend these Countries, from the incursions of the wiloe Arabs, which evermore annoy the Turks, and also Strangers; and can not possibly be brought to a quiet, and well-formed manner of living; but are continual spoilers of these parts of the Turks Dominions. That mischief daily increaseth, rather than any way diminisheth: 
The wickedness of Arabs.  They taking example from the beastly Turks, add by these patterns more wickedness, to the badness of their own dispositions: So that every one of these Savages, according to his power, dealeth with all men uncivilly and cruelly, even like a wilderness full of wild beasts, living all upon rapine, wanting all sense of humanity, more than an outward show of appearance: Whereby combining themselves in strength together, do tyrannize over all, even from the red Sea to Babylon.  
Thus, they in that violent humour, invading also these of Africa, hath caused Grand Cayro to be furnished with fifteen thousand janissaries, which defend the frontiers of Egypt and Gozan. Leaving all the Turks at Damascus (save only our janissaries and Soldiers) within the space of two hours after our departure from thence, traveling in our way to jerusalem the whole company of the Armenians fell on the ground, kissing it, and making many sincere demonstrations of unwonted devotion. At the which I being amazed, stood gazing, ask my Trouchman what news? who replied, saying, it was the place where Saint Paul was converted, which they had (and all Christians should have) in great regard. Three days were we betwixt Damascus, and the East part of Galilee, which is the beginning of Canaan, in two of which three, we encountered with Marshes and Quagmires, being a great hindrance to us: 
Arabia Petrea.  This barren, and marish Country, is a part of Arabia Petrea, coming in with a point between Galilee and Syria. It is undoubtedly a most thievish way; for as we traveled in the night, there were many of us forced to carry burning Lights in our hands, and our soldiers had their harquebusses ready to discharge: all to affray the bloodthirsty Arabians, who in holes, caves, and bushes, lie obscured, waiting for the advantage upon travelers: Truly with much difficulty, and greater danger passed we these Petrean journeys. Here I remarked a singular quality, and rare perfection in the careful conduction of our Captain; who would, when he came to any dangerous place, give the watchword of S. johann, meaning as much thereby, that none should speak or whisper after that warning, under the pain of a Harquebusado. And no more we durst, unless he had stretched out his hand, making us a sign when occasion served of liberty, lest by tumultuous noise in the night, our enemies should have the foreknowledge of our coming; and knowing also that the nature of a multitude, bred all times confused effects, without some severe punishment. Himself rod still in the vanguard, upon a lusty Gelding, with two janissaries, and forty Soldiers, and the other four janissaries, and threescore Soldiers were appointed to be the back-guard, for fear of sudden assaults. Thus most dexterously discharged he the function of his calling, not with insolency, but with prudency, and magnanimous virility: for my part I must needs say, the diligent care of that benign Caravan extended over me, was such, that whensoever I remember it, I am not able to sacrifice congratulations sufficiently to his well-deserving mind: yet in the mean while, my purse bountifully rewarded his earnest endeavours, and notwithstanding of this high-conceived regard, yet in some frivolous things, and for a small trifle, he privately wronged me, which I misknew, as unwilling (knowing his disposition, and that my life hung in in his hands) to be too forward, to seek a redress. Thus it was, 
Deceitful dealing.  at the paying of my tributes, by the way, for my head, he caused me oft to pay more than reason to the Moors. Turks, and civil Arabs, receiving secretly back from them the overplus; which my Turkish servant perceiving, made my Trouchman tell me, that I might be foreseen therein.  
But such is the covetous nature of Man, that with his covenant he cannot be contented, unless he seek otherwise by all unlawful means to purchase himself an unjust gain: but the high respect I had of his other perfections, made me oversée and wink at that imperfection of avaritiousnesse in him; and especially remembering myself to be under his protection, I always endeavoured myself so, that in his sight, I won extraordinary favour: insomuch that in danger, or security, he would ever have me near by him, which I also craved, and strove to observe the points of his will, and my own safety. The Obligation of my bounden duty, taught me to no other end, than ever to respect the benevolence of his affection, and to suppress my own weak judgement, which could never mount to the true acquittance of his condign merit.  
But to proceed in my Pilgrimage, on the aforesaid third day, in the afternoon, we entered into Galilee, passing along a fair bridge that is over the river jordan, which divideth Syria from Galilee. This bridge by the Armenians, is called Jacob's bridge; and not far hence, they showed me the place where jacob wrestled with the Angel, and where Esau met his brother jacob to have killed him. jordan is scarcely known by the name in this place: but afterward I saw his greater growth, ending in Sodom, whereof in the own place I shall more amply discourse. Between Jacob's bridge and jerusalem we had six days journey.  

A Description of the Holy Land.  April the seventh day, according to the computation of the Roman Calendar, and by ours March the 28, I entered in Galilee, a Province of Canaan, that sometimes flowed with Milk and Honey. It is commonly called Terra sancta, but by the Scriptures, the Land of Promise. Canaan is divided into five Provinces, viz. judea, Galilee, Palestina, Samaria, and Phoenicia. Some divide it only into three, Palestina, judea, and Galilee. It hath been by others also nominated in general, Syria, by which calculation they gathered all the Countries from Cilicia to Egypt under that name. By later Writers the Holy-Land hath also been termed Palestina. But howsoever they differ in descriptions, it is most certain, that at this day it is only and usually divided into these five particular Provinces. Galilee and Palestina for the present are the most fertile and largest Provinces thereof.  
After we had traveled a great way along the lake of Genesareth, which is of length 8 leagues, and large 4. where I saw the decayed Towns of Bethsaida, and Tiberias, lying on the North side of the same Sea, we left the Marine, and came to Cana, to stay all night; in which we had no Caves to save us from the Arabs, nor coverture above our heads, but the hard ground to lie on, which was always my bed, in the most part of Asia: In the night when we slept, the Soldiers kept centenall, and in the day when we reposed, they slept, and we watched. This Cana was the Town wherein our Saviour wrought the first Miracle, converting, at the Marriage, Water into Wine. The day following, embracing our way, we passed over a little pleasant mountain, where the Armenian Patriarch (for so was there one with them) went into an old Chapel, and all the rest of the Pilgrims thronged about him, using many strange Ceremonies, for it was in that place (as it is said) That Christ fed five thousand people with five Barley loaves and two fishes. Continuing our journey we saw Mount Tabor on our left hand, which is a pretty round Mountain, beset about with comely trees: I would gladly have seen the monument of that place, where the transsiguration of Christ was, but the Caravan mindful to visit Nazareth, left the great way of jerusalem, and would by no persuasion go thither. That night we lodged in a poor village called Heerschek, where we could get neither meat for ourselves, nor provender for the beasts; but some of our company had for their suppers, a hundred strokes from the Moors and Arabs in that place, because the Christian Pilgrims had trodden upon the graves of their dead friends, which by no means they can tolerate: They made no small uproar amongst us, desperately throwing stones and darts till we were all glad to remove half a mile from that place.  
April the tenth day, about ten of the clock (passing the river Kyson) we arrived at Nazareth, and there reposed till the evening, providing ourselves of victuals and water: In this Town dwelled joseph and the virgin Mary; and in which also our Saviour was brought up.  
After we had dined, the Armenians arose, and went to a heap of stones, the ruins of an old house, before the which they fell down upon their knees, praising God: and that ruinons' lump (say they) was the house where Mary dwelled when Gabriel saluted her, bringing the Annunciation of salvation to the world: I am fully persuaded they carried away above five thousand pound weight to keep in a memorial thereof. Then did I remember me of the Chapel of Loretta, and told the Caravan that I saw that house standing in Italy, which (as the Romanists say) was transported by the Angels: O, said he, we Armenians cannot believe that, neither many other assertions of the Roman Church; for we certainly know by Christians, that have from time to time dwelled here ever since, that this is both the place, and stones of the house: Let Papists coin a new law to themselves, we care not: for as they err in this, so do they in all, following merely the traditions of men, they run galloping post to hell. The Patriarch being informed by the laughing Caravan of these news, ask me in disdain (thinking it had been an Article of my belief) if I saw the house, 
Speeches of the Patriarch.  or believed that the Chapel of Loretta was such a thing: I answered, I did not believe it, affirming it was only but a devilish invention, to deceive the blindfolded people, and to fill the Coffers of the Roman Priests. Now thou bottomless gulf of Papistry, here I forsake thee, no winter blasting Furies of Satan's subtle storms can make shipwreck of my faith, on the stony shelves of thy deceitful deeps.  
In the time of our staying here, the Emeere or Lord of the Town sent six women, conducted by twelve of his servants, to an Armenian Prince, that was a Pilgrim in our company; to be used by him, and others, whom so he would elect to be his fellow labourers: which indeed he did kindly accept, and invited me to that feast; but I gave him the refusal, little regarding such a frivolous commodity. He and some of the chiefest Pilgrims entertained them for the space of three hours, and sent them back, giving to their Conductors 15 Piastres in a reward. Truly, if I would rehearse the impudence of these whores, 
The villainy of Armenians.  and the brutishness of the Armenians, as it is most ignominious to the actors; so no doubt it would be very loathsome to the reader. Such is the villainy of these Oriental Christian-flaves, under the Turks; that not only by conversing with them, learn some of their damnable Ethnic customs, but also going beyond them in beastly sensuality, become worse than bruit beasts: but God, in his just judgements, that same night, threatened to have punished both the doers, and the whole company for their sakes: for we having resolved to travel all that night; and also because the way was rocky, and hard to be known, and perilous for Arabs, we hired a Christian Guide, named joab, and agreed with him to take us to Lidda, which was two days journey. But before we took horse, joab had sent a privy messenger before us, 
A strange conspiracy.  to warn about 300 Arabs (who had their abode on the South side of mount Carmel) to meet him at such a place as he had appointed; giving them to know we were potent and rich; and that he should render us into their hands, to be made the miserable object of their cruelty. This being done, and unknown to us, we marched riding faster than an ordinary pace; which our guide suspecting, that by our celerity we should go beyond the place appointed for his treacherous plot, began to cross us grievously, leading us up and down amongst pools and holes, whither he listed; where many of our Camels and Asses were lost and could not be recovered, because we all began to suspect and fear; which was the cause that the owners durst not stay to relieve their perishing Beasts.  
In the end the Captain and janissaries en treated him earnestly to bring us in the right way; but the more they requested, the more obdurate was his heart, replying, he was mistaken, and could not find it till day light: upon the which words the company was stayed, and in the mean while there came a Turk, one of our Soldiers, unto the Captain, saying; He saw the guide, before our departure from Nazareth, send a Moor before him, for what respect he knew not, being long at private conference. Whereupon they strait bound him with ropes on a horse back, threatening him with death, to cause him confess the truth.  
In the midst of this tumult, I having got sight of the Northstarre, considered thereby, that the villain had led us more to the Southward then to the Westward, which was our way to jerusalem: Whereupon I entreated the Caravan to turn our faces Northward, otherwise we should be cut off, and that suddenly: for although (said I) it may peradventure be, that we are 3 or 4 miles short of the place intended for our massacre; yet they missing us, will like ravening Wolves hunt here and there; wherefore if we incline to the North (God willing) we shall prevent their bloody designs. To which advice (being duly pondered) they yielded; and so I became their guide in the darks night, till morning: for none of them knew that star, neither the nature of it. At last this desperate wretch, considering that either by our vanquishing, or the enemy's victory, he could not escape, sith his treason was revealed, began to beg pardon of the Caravan saying, that if he could have any surety of his life, he would sufficiently inform us how to escape these imminent dangers. The Captain being distracted with fear, replied he would; and thereupon swore a solemn oath, so did the janissaries swear by the head of Mahomet for the like effect: which being done, he was untied, and confessed, that if we had continued in our way he led us, we had been all put to the edge of the sword, and falling down on his knees, cried oft with tears, mercy, mercy, mercy.  
All that night we went with that star, 
The desolation of Tyrus.  and against morning we were in Palestina, near unto Tyrus, called now Sur: which Alexander had so much ado to conquer; being then separated from the main Continent by the Sea, but now joined to the firm Land; and before you come to the City, there lieth a great bank of Sand, where it is likely the sea hath been in Alexander's time, though now, as time altereth every thing, the sea be fled from that place; which maketh that ruinous Town more desolate. Aurora no sooner appeared, but we were all encouraged, for the light of day lends comfort. The Captain (sending back that false judas, for so was he sworn to do) sent a Post to Tyrus for a new Guide, who came forthwith, and brought us in our way to Mount Carmell, for by it we behoved to go.  
Great are the mercies of God for as he hath made man an excellent creature, so hath he also endued him with two great powers in his mind: the one a wise power of understanding, by which he penetrateth into the knowledge of things; the other a strong power of dexterous resolving, whereby he executeth things well understood, for we having judged the worst, resolved the best; and by his Almighty providence were freed from that apparent danger, although the former days whoredom, & unnatural vices deserved a just punishment. This I intimate to all travelers in general, that if they would that God should further them in their attempts, bless their voyages, and grant them a safe return to their native Countries (without the which, what contentment have they for all their pains) that they would constantly refrain from whoredom, drunkenness, and too much familiarity with strangers: For a traveler that is not temperate, and circumspect in all his actions, although he were headed like that Herculean Serpent▪ Hydra, yet it is impossible he can return in safety from danger of Turks, Arabs, Moors, wild beasts, heat, hunger, thirst and cold.  
Approaching to mount Carmell, I beheld a far off upon the top of the hill, the place where Elias ascended to heaven when he left his Cloak behind him to Elizeus his Disciple. This mountain is four miles of length, lying South and North, the North end bordering with the sea, near to Acre, called anciently Ptolomais; and the South end joining with the borders of Samaria.  
Leaving Samaria on our left hand, we entered into a fair plain, adorned with fruitful trees, and all other ornaments that pleasant fields afford, but no village we saw. Marching thus, about the declining of the Sun from the Meridian, we came in sight of two hundred pavilions, all pitched in ranks, yielding the prospect of a little City, by a brook side of water: which being perceived, the Captain began to censure what they might be, and immediately there came riding towards us, six naked fellows, well mounted on Arabian geldings, who demanded what we were, and whither we were bound; and if there were any, Frankes of Christendom in our company. To whom the janissaries replied, we were purposed to jerusalem, and that there was but one Frank with them: upon the which they presently sought me, 
Caffar, tribute.  demanding Caffar, Caffar, and caused me perforce to pay seven Chickens of gold for my head; because (say they) our King is now resident in these Tents, he must pay therefore so much the more extraordinary.  
They returning back to their Prince with the malediction of a Pilgrims purse, and we marching on our way, that day we traveled above 34 miles, and pitched at a village called Adoash; where we found good herbs to eat, and abundance of water to drink, and also to fill our emptied bottles: As we lay down to sleep after a hungry supper, on the hard ground, and our guard watching us, that same King of the Arabians, came a little before midnight with 24 well horsed Runagates, and naked Courtiers, being armed with bows and arrows, and halfe-pikes, pointed at both ends with hard steel; and asked for the Caravan who presently awoke, 
The courtesy of Turks.  and went to salute him, laying his hand on his breast, bowed his head very low; which is the usual courtesy amongst the Infidels and Christians in these parts: for they never uncover their heads to any man; and after some short parley, they sat all down on the grass. The Caravan presented his rude-like Majesty with water, bread, herbs, figs, garlic, and such things as he had. As they were thus merry, at this poor banquet, the awful King took the oath of our Conductor, if there were any more Frankes there then I; and he having sworn the truth, the King by a malignant informer, incontinently, caused me to be brought before him; and staring me in the face, asked my Interpreter where were my companions? who replied, I had none: Then, said he, tell that dog, he must acknowledge me with five pieces of gold more, 
The extortion of the Arabian King.  otherwise (making a sign to his own throat) I shall cut off his head: The which I being informed, and knowing that by no condition, there was resistance against such a scelerate Prince, gave it to him presently with a half smiling countenance; which he remarking, told the rest, it seemed that I gave it with a good heart; and to recompense my outward behaviour, he drunk a great draft of water to me, thinking thereby, he had done me more honour, than all the chickens of gold I gave him now, and in the morning, would do him profit. Truly, this was one of the greatest tributes I paid for one days journey, that I had in all my voyage, in Asia. There are two Kings in Arabia, the one who liveth on Euphrates, the Deserts of Mesopotamia, sometimes in Arabia Felix, and in some parts of Syria: And the other (which was the King to whom I paid this money) wandereth with his Tribes, Tents, and Bestial) one while in Arabia Petrea, and Deserta, and sometimes in the Holy Land, as he findeth good Pastorage, and fresh fountains. These two Kings are mortal enemies; and if by accident they meet, they fight most cruelly, bringing damage, rapine, and destruction to themselves, and their followers; for it is a difficult thing in them to dominate their inordinate passions, being untamed Savages, and mis-regarders of civility; who continually contend to corroborate the malignity of their dispositions, with bloody and inhuman enterprises.  
The next morning, leaving Jacob's Well, and the Town of Sychar on our left hand, 
Sychar, of old the chiefest City in Samaria, is now altogether ruinated.  we marched through a part of the fields of Basan, and had exceeding pleasant traveling, and at night we pitched by Lydda on the fields: Lydda is not above ten miles from Caesarea. The Towns situated by the Sea side in Palestina are these; Sydon, which standeth on the borders of Zebulon, and Nephtalim, or Phoenicia, being a goodly City and well peopled: Tyrus, which is miserably brought to ruin: Acre, that hath yet some indifferent Trade of Merchandise: Caipha, called commonly Castello pellegrino, which hath nothing but the remnants of an ancient abbey: Caesarea, who reserveth but only the memory; for there is no hospitality in it, except it be to wild beasts: joppa, or japhta, is a seaport of small Barks, but the decayed Town containeth not one dwelling house, save only a high Tower, which defendeth the port from Cursares: And Baruti is also thought to be within Canaan, but that I suspend, as not having had the certainty thereof. These are all the havens in the Holy Land.  
April the thirteenth, before the breach of day, setting forward, scarcely were we well advanced in our way, till we were beset with more than three hundred Arabs, who sent us an unexpected shore of arrows, to the great annoyance of all our company: for if it had not been, that our soldiers shot of their Guns on a sudden, surely we had then miserably perished. But the nature of the Arabs is not unlike to the jackals: for when any of them hear the shot of a harquebus, they run back with such speed, as if the fiends of the infernal Court were broken loose upon them. 
A massacre of Armenian pilgrims.  In that momentany conflict, on our side, there were killed nine women, five men, and about thirty persons deadly wounded, which to our worthy Captain bred no small grief. Till bright day came, we stayed still in that same place, and buried the slain people in deep graves, rolling above them heavy stones, whereby jackals should not open their graves to eat the corpse: for such is the nature of these cruel beasts, that they only love to live on man's flesh: These ravenous beasts (as is thought) are engendered of a Fox and a Wolf.  
Proceeding in our journey, in the Hilly Country of judea, we entered, leaving Rhama on our right hand: Rhama is a Town inhabited by Christians, Arabs, and Moors; not black Moors, as the Africans be, but they are called Mori, which are a kind of Egyptians, and not naturally black, but sunburnt, with the parching heat: The whole Territory of Canaan, is inhabited with these Moors, some Turks, civil Arabs, and a few Christians and scattered jews. The Arabians are, for the most part, thieves, and Robbers, the Moors cruel, and uncivil, hating Christians to the death: The Turks are the best of all the three, yet all sworn enemies to Christ. But when they know how to make any gain by strangers, O what a dissimulate ostentation shall appear in these detestable villains.  
About two of the clock in the afternoon we arrived at Berah, called of old Beersheba, being eleven miles distant from jerusalem. Having a little reposed, we embraced our mountainous way as cheerfully as we could, for we were exceeding faint, and traveled that day above three and forty miles, whereby we might arrive at jerusalem before the gates were shut, sustaining drought, heat, hunger, and not a few other inconveniences. At last we beheld the prospect of jerusalem; which was not only a contentment to my wearied body, but also being ravished with a kind of unwonted rejoicing, the tears gushed from mine eyes for too much joy. In this time the Armenians began to sing in their own fashion, Psalms to praise the Lord; and I also sung the 103 Psalm all the way, till we arrived near the walls of the City, where we ceased from our singing for fear of the Turks.  
The Sun being passed to his nightly repose, before our arrival, we found the gates locked, and the Keys carried up to the Bashaw in the Castle; which bred a common sorrow in the company, being all both hungry, and weary; yet the Caravan entreated earnestly the Turks within, to give us over the walls, some victuals for our money, showing heavily the necessity we had thereof, but they would not, neither durst attempt such a thing: In this time the Guardian of the Monastery of Cordeleirs, 
Monastery of Friars.  who remaineth there to receive travelers of Christendom, having got news of our arriving, came and demanded of the Caravan, if any Franks of Europe were in his society; And he said, only one. Then the Guardiano called me, and asked me of what Nation I was? and when I told him, he seemed to be exceeding glad: yet sorrowful for our misfortune. He having knowing my distress, returned, and sent two Friars to me with bread, wine and fishes, which they let over the wall (as they thought, in a secret place) but they were espied, and on the morrow the Guardiano paid to the Bashaw a great fine, otherwise he had been beheaded; for the Turks alleged, he had taken in munition from the Christians, to betray the City: This they do oft, for a lesser fault than that was, only to get bribes, and money from the Grey Friars.  
April the fourteenth day, upon Palme-sunday in the morning, we entered into jerusalem, and at the gate we were particularly searched, to the effect we carried in no furniture of Arms, nor powder with us, and the Armenians (notwithstanding they are slaves to Turks) behoved to render their weapons, to the Keepers, such is the fear they have of Christians: The gates of the City are of iron outwardly, and above each gate are brazen Ordinance planted, for their own defence.  
Having taken my leave of the Caravan and the company, who went to lodge with their own Patriarch, I kept my way to the aforesaid Monastery; and at the entry of the house, the whole Friars met me, receiving me joyfully, and rejoiced that a Christian had come from such a far Country to visit jerusalem: I found here ten Franks newly come from Christendom, and nine others which dwelled in Syria and Cyprus; who were all glad of me, showing thesemlues so kind, so careful, so loving, and so honourable in all respects, that they were as kind Gentlemen as ever I met withal; such is the love of strangers when they meet in foreign Countries; they had also in high respect the adventures of my travel beyond jerusalem; troubling me all the while we were together, to tell them news; and were always in admiration that I had no fellow-pilgrime in my long peregrination.   

A Description of jerusalem, and the memorable things he saw there, and in judea: of the Holy Grave, Sodom and Gomorrha, jordan, the Deserts, Grand Cayro, Egypt, the River Nilus, and of his return to Christendom.  
JERUSALEM, is now called by the Turks, Kuddish which signifieth in their Language, a Holy City: It was first called Moriah of Moria, one of the seven heads of Zion, 
Antiquity of jerusalem.  where Abraham would have sacrificed Isaac, Genesis 22.2. and upon his offering it was called jerusalem, Gen. 14.18. It was also named Salem, where Sem and Melchisedech dwelled; and jerusalem was also called jebus 2. Sam. 24.16. And it is the place where Solomon was commanded to build the Temple, 2. Chron. 3.1. which afterward was termed Heiron Salomonis, whence came, by corruption, that word Hierosolyma. David, also in his Psalms gave it divers names.  
jerusalem standeth in the same place where old jerusalem stood, but not so populous, neither in each respect of breadth, or length, so spacious: for on the South side of jerusalem, a great part of Mount Zion is left without, which was anciently the heart of the old City; and they have taken on the North side, now both Mount Caluarie, and the holy Grave within the walls, which were built by Sultan Selim: So that thereby the difference of the situation is not so great, though a part thereof be removed; but a man may boldly affirm, that the most part of this City is builded on that place where the first jerusalem was: As may truly appear, and is made manifest by these Mountains, mentioned in the Scriptures, whereupon jerusalem is both situate, and environed about, who reserve their names to this day, and are still seen, and known by the same; as Mount Zion, Mount Caluarie, Mount Moriah, and Mount Olivet. The form of the situation of jerusalem, is now like to a heart or Triangle, the one point whereof looketh East, extending downward, almost to the valley of jehosaphat, which divideth jerusalem, and Mount Olivet: The second head of point, bendeth out south-west upon Zion, bordering near to the Ualley of Gehinnon: The third corner lieth on Mount Moriah, toward the North, and bywest, having the prospect to the burial place of the Kings of Israel. The walls are high, and strongly builded with Saxon quadrato, which adorn jerusalem more than any thing within it, the holy Grave excepted. It is of circuit about three miles, and a half, of our measure. As touching the former glory of this City, I will not meddle withal, nor yet describe, sith the Scriptures so amply manifest the same; and concerning the lamentable destruction of it, I refer that to the famous Historiographer josephus, who largely discourseth, of many hundred thousands famished, and put to the sword within this multi-potent City by Vespasian, and Titus his son; being the messengers of Gods just judgements; which by his computation, amount beyond the number of eleven hundred thousands.  
This City hath been oft conquered by enemies: first, by Nebuchodonosor, 
The oft conquering of jerusalem.  the Assyrian King: Secondly, by the greeks, and Alexander the Great, and also marvelously afflicted by Antiochus: Thirdly, it was taken in by Pompeius: Fourthly, destroyed of Vespasian, and Titus: Fiftly, it was reedifyed by Adrian the Emperrour, and won again by Gosdroes', the Persian King: Sixthly, it was overcome by Homar Califf the successor of Mahomet: Seventhly, by the great soldan of Egypt, and by Godfrey de Bulloyne, a Christian Prince: Eightly, by Salidine the Caliph of Egypt, and Damascus; who reserved successively the Signiory thereof, for a long time: And lastly, it was surprised by Sultan Selim, or Solyman the Emperor of the Turks, who fortified the same, being by Infidels detained to this day: And by liklyhood shall keep it to the consummation of the world, unless God of his mercy deal otherwise, than the hopes of man's weak judgement can expect. But, to the intent the Reader may the better conceive, and plainly understand the Monuments I saw within jerusalem, and the circumiacent places of judea; I thought best to prefix the description thereof, by the several days, as I saw them, not much condemning, neither absolutely qualifying them, but shall (as it were) neutrally nominate and recapitulate these places, as I was informed, by the Padre Guardiano, who is every third year changed, and especially john Baptista, the Trouch-man, who hath dwelled at jerusalem 25 years: for he that understandeth not promptly the Italian tongue, 
The ignorance of Pilgrims, who can not speak Italian.  which they usually speak when they demonstrate these places to us; he shall conceive ignorantly, dispose his judgement blindfoldedly, & knows not how to distinguish the circumstances and qualities of the things delivered. As I have known some of these Frankes in my company, simply mistaken, even when the exposition of every object was largely manifested unto them; and precisely declared such a thing to have been there, although perhaps the matter itself be evanished and transported.  
April 14. on Palm-sunday after dinner, the Guardiano departed from jerusalem to Bethphage, accompanied with twelve Friars, and many other Oriental Christians, which were come thither to that festival time, but I by no means would go, reposing myself till their return. The ridiculous ceremony which that day they use, is thus. In an Apish imitation of Christ, at the foresaid Bethphage, there was an Ass brought to the Guardiano, whereupon he mounted (being as it were, the greater Ass riding upon the lesser) and came riding to jerusalem, the people cutting down boughs of trees, and also despoiling themselves almost to the skin, bestrewed the way as he road along, crying, Hosanna, Hosanna, the son of David, blessed is he, that cometh in the name of the Lord, until they came to the South gate of Zion, where he dismounted. At night after supper, the Guardiano knowing that I was a Protestant, and also some other Frankes, made an Oration, saying, You Pilgrims, who refuse to be participant with us in the Sacraments, or will not adhere to the processions & ceremonies, which we follow of the Roman Church, I would therefore entreat you (your liberty being here as much as mine, whereby you may do whatsoever seem good in our own eyes) only to abstain from scandalising and mocking our rites & ordinary customs, which at this great feast we must perform. To the which we condescended, and promised to give no occasion of offence. In the conclusion of his long exhortation, he disclosed this admonition, saying, All you travelers must in general be endued with these three worthy gifts, Faith, Patience, and Money; Faith, to believe these things you shall see and hear at jerusalem; Patience, to endure the apparent injuries of Infidels; and Money, to discharge all tributes and costs, which here (meaning in his own Monastery) and about this City, must be defrayed. His Sermon he concluded like a grey Friar, as indeed he was; for I am fully persuaded he little cared for our Faith and Patience, providing that our Purses could answer his expectation, as truly we found the trial afterward.  
Monday early, we Pilgrims went forth to view the Monuments within the City, being accompanied with the Padre Viccario, and a French Predicatore: the places of any note we saw, were these; First they showed us the place where Christ appeared to Mary Magdalen, who said, Touch me not, for I am not as yet ascended to my Father, joh. 20, 15. and in this place by them is supposed to be the centre, or middle part of the world. Next, where S. james the first Bishop of the primitive Church was beheaded; then the house of S. Thomas, but that is doubtful (say they) because it is not yet confirmed by the Papal Authority; from thence they brought us to the place where Anna's one of the high Priests dwelled, and also the tree to which our Saviour was bound, whiles Annas was making himself ready to lead him to Caiaphas, but that I will not believe, for that tree groweth yet, being an Olive tree. They showed us also the house where S. Peter was imprisoned, and where Zebedeus the father of james and john dwelled, which are nothing but a lump of ruins. 
The Abisines are borne naturally black, and these silly religious men of them that stay at jerusalem, wear on their heads flot round caps of a blackish colour, & on their body's linen clothes.  Thence we came to the decayed lodging of Caiphas, without the City, upon the mount Zion, whereupon there is Chapel builded, and at the entry of that little domo, we saw the stone on which the Cock crew, when Peter denied Christ. Within the same place is the Stone that was rolled to the Sepulchre door of our Saviour; being now made an Altar to the Abasenes, a kind of people which came from Prester jehans' dominions. And within that Chapel they showed us a narrow pit, wherein (say they) Christ was incarcerate the night before he was brought to the judgement Hall.  
Upon the same side of Zion we saw the place where Christ Christ did institute the Sacraments; and not far hence, a decayed house, where (say they) the Holy Ghost descended upon the Apostles, and also the Sepulchre of David, and his son Solomon: over the which there is a Moskée, wherein no Christian may enter to see these Monuments.  
From thence we returned, and entered in via dolorosa, the dolorous way, by which our Lord and Saviour passed, when he went to be crucified; and at the end of the same street, here (say they) the Soldiers met Simon of Cyrene, and compelled him to help Christ to bear his Cross when he fainted. Pilat's judgement Hall is altogether ruinated, having but only between the two sides of the Lane, an old Arch of stone, under the which I passed, standing full in the high way. Here they showed us the place where Christ first took up his Cross, and on the top of that Arch we saw that place called Gabbatha, where jesus stood, when Pilate said to the jews, Ecce homo. A little below this, they brought us to the Church of S. Anna, where (say they) the virgin Mary was borne. And going down another narrow lane, they pointed unto a house, and said, here Dives the rich Glutton dwelled, who would not give to Lazarus the crumbs of bread that fell from his table; this I suspend, amongst many other things, for all hold it to be a Parable, and not a History: and although it were a History, who can demonstrate the particular place, jerusalem having been so often transformed by alterations. This I must needs say, with such lying wonders these flattering Friars bring strangers into a wonderful admiration, and although I rehearse all I saw there, yet I will not believe all, only publishing them as things indifferent, some whereof are frivolous, and other somewhat more credible: but as I said before, I will make no (or very small) distinction in the relation.  
From thence we came without the Eastern gate, unto an immovable stone, upon the which they said S. Stephen was stoned to death; and near to that we saw Porta aurea, that is, the golden port, called in former times, the beautiful Gate of the Temple: which the Turks have filled up with stones, because of a prophesy, viz. That the City was once won there, and shall be won again at the same place.  
As we returned to the Covent, they brought us to mount Moriah, and showed us the place where Abraham offered up Isaac, which is in the custody of Nigroes, or Aethiopians. Next, the place where jesus said, Daughters of jerusalem, mourn not for me, etc. And near unto this, where the virgin Mary fell into an agony, when jesus passed by carrying his Crosse. Also not facre hence, we beheld the place, where (as they say) jesus said, Mother, behold thy Son.  
Ascending more upward, they showed us the house of Veronica Sancta, and said, that our Saviour going by her door, all in a sweat, to mount Calvary, she brought him a napkin to wipe his face; which he received, and gave it her again: in which (say they) the print of his face remaineth to this day, and is to be seen at Rome. It is also said to be in a Town in Spain, wherefore I believe the one as well as the other. As touching the Temple of Solomon, which was destroyed, there is another great Temple builded in the same place, reserved by Turks, for that affection they carry to Solomon; near the which no Christian may come, under the pain of losing his head. These are all the monuments which in one day I saw within jerusalem; but as for Mount Calvary, and the Holy Grave, I saw them afterward, which in their own place shall be orderly touched. As we were spending that day in these sights, the Guardian had prepared an hundred Soldiers, sixty Horsemen, and forty footmen to take with him the day following, for his conduction to jordan, and the Mountain in the Wilderness whore Christ fasted; which is his usual custom once every year, between Palme-sunday and Easter, returning again before Good-Friday. These places cannot be viewed, save only at that time; neither may a Pilgrim go along with the Soldiers unless he give the value of seven French Crowns (as a propyne) unto the Lieutenant: that same night after supper the Guardian demanded of us travelers, if we would go with him to see these memorable and singular things, upon the former condition: To whom we answered in a general consent, We would.  
Early upon Tuesday morning (being all of us, both Friars and Pilgrims, well mounted, and Mulets laden for our provision) we departed from the City with our Soldiers; and traveled all that day through a barren and desert Country, till sunset, where we reposed by a standing well, till an hour within night. After that the Captain had cried Catethlanga, that is, march away; we set forward, being well guarded round about with our keepers, because we entered into a dangerous way. In all this deformed Country we saw neither house nor village, for it is altogether desartous, and inhabited only by wild beasts, and naked Arabians. Before we came near to Sodom and Gomorrha by seven miles (for so we behoved to pass by the East end of it, before we could arrive at that place of jordan which we intended) we I say encountered with such deep sandy ground, that the Mulets were not able to carry us through: whereupon we all dismounted, wrestling and wading above the middle part of our bodies, and sometimes falling in over our heads, we were in great danger of perishing. Even in the midst of this turmoiling pain (the night being dark) the unwelcomed Arabs environed and invaded us with a storm of arrows which they sent from the tops of little hard hills, whereupon they stood, 
Invasions of Arabs.  for knowing the advantage of the ground, they took opportunity to give the more fearful assaults; yet they prevailed nothing (although they wounded some of our Soldiers) such was the resolute courage of our valorous defendants. True it is, that in all my travels, I was never so sore fatigated, or fearfully endangered, as I was that night.  
A little after midgnight, 
A true description of Sodom and Gomorrha.  we left this troublesome way, and marched along the Lake of Sodom: This Lake is called Mare Mortuum, the dead sea: for of itself it is unmoneable, such is the stability of the water: It is also called so, because if a bird fly over it, she presently falleth down therein dead: and, as Solomon reporteth of it, Wisd. 10.7. it smoketh continually; from whence proceed filthy vapours; which deform the fields lying about for certain mills, as it were blasted, scorched, and made utterly barren: This smoke I take only to be but the exhalation of jordan; for this river falling into it, and there ending his course, the two contrary natures cannot agree: the one being a filthy puddle, and the other a pure water, as I shall more approbably record. This Lake is eighty miles in length, and six in breadth, being compassed with the rocks of Arabia Petrea on the South: on the North, with the sandy hills of the wilderness of judea: on the West, with the steepy Mountains of Arabia deserta: and on the East, with the plain of jericho. How cometh it to pass therefore, that the fresh running flood of jordan, falling evermore into this bounded sea; that the Lake itself, never diminisheth, nor increaseth, but always standeth at one fullness: neither hath it any issuing forth, nor reboundeth backwards on the plain of jericho, which is one of the greatest wonders in the world. Wherefore, as I have said, it must needs either exhale to the clouds, or otherwise run down to Hell; for if it ran under the rocks, and so burst forth in the deserts, it would soon be known; but in all the bounds of Arabia deserta, which betwixt this Lake and the red Sea, extend to three hundred miles; there is no such matter, as brook, or strand, much less a river.  
It breedeth nor reserveth no kind of fishes; and if by the swelling of jordan, any fishes be carried to it, they immediately die. Although josephus witnesseth, that in his time there was an Apple grew upon the banks thereof, like to the colour of gold; and within was rotten, and would consume to powder; yet I affirm now the contrary: for there is not such a thing (whatsoever hath been in his days) as either trees, or bushes, grow near to Sodom by many miles: such is the consummation of that pestiferous gulf: divers Authors have reported, that nothing will sink into it, of any reasonable weight, as dead men, or carcases of beasts; but by experience I approve the contrary: for it beareth nothing above at all; yea, not the weight of a feather. The water itself, is of a blackish colour, and at sometimes in the year, there are terrible shapes, and shows of terror in it, as I was informed at jericho, which is the nearest Town that bordereth thereupon.  
This contagious, and pestilentious lake of Sodom, resembleth much (as may be supposed) that infernal gulf of Hell; but in my opinion, I hold it to be the purgatory of Papists: for they say Limbus Patrum is near, or in the second room to hell, which I think must needs be Sodom for although it be not Hell itself, yet I am persuaded, it is a second Hell, having (as some report) no bottom. Wherefore I conclude thus, that since Papists will have a Purgatory, I absolutely affirm, it must be such a Purgatory, as the purging of Sodom and Gomorrha; which was with fire and brimstone.  
About the breach of day on Tuesday morning, we passed by the ruins of an old house; where (as they say) Saint john the Baptist remained, when he baptised those that came from jerusalem, and other Regions about, which is but the flight of an arrow from jordan. 
Iordans water is of a whitish colour.  Approaching to the bankside, we dismounted, and unclothed ourselves, going in naked to the river, we washed, us to refresh our bodies: In this place, as the Guardiano said, was Christ baptised of Saint john, when the Holy Ghost came down in a bodily shape, like a Dove upon him, and there was a voice from heaven, 
Luke 3.22.  saying: Thou art my beloved Son, in thee I am well pleased. I saw also an apparent like testimony, of a quadrangled stone, lying on the bank side, whereupon are engraven letters, of Hebrew, Greek, and Latin, testifying the same thing; and may also be so conjectured, in regard of the ancient Habitacle, of that precursor, which is not far from thence.  
This River jordan beginneth in Mount Libanus, two Fountains, jore, and Dan, which run separated, till they come to the lake Maronah; and hence it maketh one body, keeping his course through the Lake Genesereth, endeth in Sodom. The river Tiber at Rome, and jordan, are not much different in quantity and colour; and not unlike in their courses: 
A comparison betwixt jordan and Tiber, whose colour and growth are both alike, and their courses agreeable thereunto.  for jordan falleth in the old Gomorah, and Tiber runneth through the new Sodom; A History of such evidence, as travel taught me by experience: for it is the Priest's confluence, which breeds in the Italians insolence: If I err, I will beg indulgence of the Pope's Aureat Magnificence. The water of jordan hath been transported to Venice in barrels, for that purity it hath; which will reserve unspoiled, both months, and years, and the longer it is kept, it is the more fresher; and to drink, it is an excellent remedy for the fever Quartan, and Quotidian.  
Considering the ancient reputation of this famous River, and the rare fight of such an unfrequented place, I climbed up to the top of a Turpentine Tree, which grew within the limited flood, even naked as I came from swimming, and cut down a fair hunting rod, which afterward, with great pains, I brought to England, and did present it (as the rarest gem of a Pilgrims treasure) to his Majesty. But I remember in the choosing thereof, an unexpected accident fell out: for I being sequestrate from the sight of the company, upon his solitary tree, with broad obscuring leaves, the Friars and Soldiers removed, keeping their course towards jericho; but within two furlongs from jordan, they were baset with the form Nocturnal enemies, who assailed them with a hard conflict: For I heartng the harquebus go off, was strait in admiration, and looking down to the place where I left my associates, they were gone; so bending my eyes a little further in the plain, I saw them at a martial combat: which sight, gave me suddenly, the threatening of despair, not knowing whether to stay entrenched, within the circumdating leaves, to approve the events of my auspicious fortunes: or in prosecuting a relief, to be participant of their doubtful deliverance. In the end pondering, I could hardly, or never escape their hands, leapt down from the Tree, leaving my Turkish clothes lying upon the ground, took only in my hand the rod, and Shasse which I wore on my head, 
The danger of the Author being left alone upon the banks of jordan.  and ran stark naked above a quarter of a mile, amongst Thistles, and sharp pointed grass, which pitifully be-pricked the soles of my feet. Approaching on the safe side of my company, one of our soldiers broke forth on horseback, being determined to kill me for my staying behind; yea, and three times he struck at me with his half pike, but his horse being at his speed, I prevented his cruelty, first by falling down, next by running in amongst the thickest of the Pilgrims, recovering my beast: Which when the Guardiano espied, and saw my naked body, he presently pulled of his Gown, and threw it to me, whereby I might hide the secrets of nature: By which means (in the space of an hour) I was clothed three manner of ways: first, like a Turk: secondly, like a wild Arabian: and thirdly, like a Grey Friar; which was a barbarous, a savage, and a religious habit.  
The Captain mitigating the fury of the Arabs, by some contributing promises, we marched toward jericho: where we reposed, and dined, on the provision carried with us. After dinner we arose, and went to the house of Zacheus, (this was he who sat upon a Tree to see our Saviour as he passed by) the walls whereof stand to this day. jericho is now a poor Village only of nine dwelling houses, inhabited by a kind of Arabs (which are in subjection under the Governor of jerusalem) but I saw many ruivous lumps of the walls, and demolishings of the old Town. Here I saw two most dainty kind of fruits, the one was a little lesser than an Apple, 
A rate kind of Apples.  but more round; whose colour was like to gold without, and within it was white as snow, and sweet like sugar. I would gladly have eaten of them, but the Friars forbade me, saying; they were the only pest and death unto a stanger. The other Apple was like to a green lemon, long, and full of knots, of a reddish colour, like to a Mellone, being both delicate and wholesome; of which we did eat to satisfy the Natural appetite. From jericho we set forward in the way of the Wilderness, our determination being such, as to view the Mountain whereon Christ fasted forty days: where arrived, being late, we durst not go up till morning. Wherefore we pitched that night by the fountain of Elizeus; the water of which was of old naturally bitter, but by the prayers of that divine Prophet, was restored to a sweet taste: It is also excellent in digestion, and will do a man no harm: for I esteem it to be the lightest water the earth yieldeth. Having on the morrow filled a Boars skin of it, to carry with me to the mountain, I found it so light, that I had no weight nor pain in the bearing it on my shoulders, notwithstanding the way itself was fastidious.  
This Mountaie is called Quarantanam, or Quaranto, being of height, 
The mountain in the wilderness, whereupon Christ fasted 40 days.  by the computation of my painful experience, above six miles, and groweth from the bottom still smaller and smaller, till that the top is covered with a little Chapel, not unlike to the proportion of a Pyramid. There is no way to ascend upon this Hill, save one, which hath been hewn out of the rock, by the industry of men experimented in Masonry; (which was done at the cost of Queen Helen) going up by the degrees of 45 turns. In all our company there were only three Friars, four Pilgrims, and I, that durst attempt to climb the mountain. After divers dangers, and narrow passages, having come to the top, we entered into a cave joining to the Chapel, where (say they) in this place did Christ fast, and here it was that he rebuked Satan. In our return again, we had a most fearful descending: for one Friar Laurenzo had fallen five hundred fathoms over the rock, and broke his neck, if it had not been for me, who rashly and unadvisedly endangered my own life for his safety; as my patent under the great seal of jerusalem, beareth sufficient testimony thereof. To recite all the circumstances of his deliverance, would move some merriment to the reader, which I purposely omit to avoid tediousness.  
Having saluted our Padre Guardiano, and the rest of our expecters, in our way as we returned to jerusalem, we road by a ruinous Abbey, where (say they) S. Jerome dwelled, and was said there by wild Lions. Upon Thursday at night before Good-Friday, we went to the Holy Grave, where we stayed Friday, Saturday, & on Sunday, which was Easter day, we came forth: first, before we entered the Church, we gave every one of us Pilgrims, nine Chickens of gold to the Turks, who are keepers of the door: next, two Chickens for our first entering the City: Thirdly, unto the Padre Guardiano three pieces of gold, for the candles; and other things he spent in their own ceremonies, which we behoved to pay. Both mount Calvary and the holy Grave are comprehended within one Church.  
After we entered, the first place of any note we saw, was the place of Unction, which is a four squared stone, enclosed about within an Iron reveal, on which (say they) the dead body of our Saviour lay, and was embalmed, after he was taken from the Cross, whiles joseph of Arimathea was preparing that new Sepulchre for him, wherein never man lay. From thence we came to the holy Grave.  

A plain description of the Holy Grave.  The holy Grave is covered with a little Chapel, standing within a round Choir, in the west end of the Church: It hath two low and narrow entries. As we entered the first door, the Guardiano fell down, ingenochiato, and kissed a stone, whereupon (he said) the Angel stood when Mary Magdalen came to the Sepulchre, to know if Christ was risen on the third day, as he promised. And within the entry of the second door, we saw the place where Christ our Messias was buried, and prostrating ourselves in great humility, every man according to his religion, offered up his prayers to God. The sepulchre itself is eight foot and a half in length, and advanced about three foot in height from the ground, and three foot five inches broad, being covered with a fair Marble stone of white colour. In this Chapel are always burning above fifty Lamps, maintained by Christian Princes, and they stand within a band of pure gold, which is exceeding sumptuous; having the names of those, who sent or gave them, engraven upon the upper edges of the round circles. I demanded of the Guardiano if any part of the Tomb were yet extant, who replied, there was; but because (said he) Christians resorting thither, being devoutly moved with affection to the place, carried away part thereof, which caused S. Helen to enclose it under this stove; whereby some relics of it should always remain. I make no doubt but that same place is Golgotha, where the holy Grave was, as may appear by the distance between Mount Calvary and this sacred Monument; which extendeth to forty of my paces. This Chapel is outwardly decored with fifteen couple of Marble Pillars, and of 22 foot high; and above the upper Coverture of the same Chapel, there is a little sixe-angled Turret made of Cedar Wood, covered with lead, and beautified with six small Columns of the same tree.  
The form of the Choir wherein it standeth, is like unto that ancient Rotundo in Rome, but a great deal higher and larger, having two gorgeous Galleries one above another, and adorned with magnificent Columns, being open at the top, with a large round, which yieldeth to the heavens the prospect of that most sacred place. From thence we marched to Mount Calvary, where we ascended by one and twenty steps, made partly of Wood, and partly of Alabaster stone: and there I saw a hole in a rock of a cubit deep, beautified with thick boards of silver, and engrafted letters; in which (say they) the Cross stood whereon our Saviour was crucified. Leaving Mount Calvary on our left hand, we came to the Tomb of Godfrey de Bullion, who was the first proclaimed Christian King of jerusalem, and refused to be crowned there, saying, it was not decent, the servants head should be crowned with gold, where the Master's head had been crowned with thorns; having this inscription engraven on the one side:  
Hic jacet inclytus Godfridus de Bullion, qui totam hanc terram acquisivit cultui divino, cuius anima requiescat in pace.  
And over-gainst it, is the Tomb of King Baldwine his brother, which hath these Verses in golden Letters curiously indented.  
Rex Baldevinus, judas alter Machabeus.  
Spes patriae, Vigour Ecclesiae, Virtusutriusque;  
Quem formidabant, cui dona, tributa ferebant.  
Caesar Aegypti Dan, ac homicida Damascus.  
Proh dolour! in modico clauditur hoc Tumulo.  
The other things within the Church they showed us, were these, a marble pillar, whereunto (say they) our Saviour was bound, when he was whipped and scourged for sakes: the place in a low Cellar, about 14 degrees under the ground where the Cross was hid by the jews, and found again by S. Helen: the place where Christ was crowned with Thorns, which is reserved by the Abasines, and where the Soldiers cast lots for his Garments; the place where he was imprisoned, whiles they were making of his Cross, and where the Cross being laid along upon the ground, our Saviour was nailed fast to it; the Rock, which (as they say) rend at his crucifying, which is more likely to be done with hammers, and set one piece a foot from another, for the slit looks, as if it had been cleft with wedges and béetles.  
And lastly they take upon them below Calvary to show where the head of Adam was buried. These and many other things are so doubtful, that I do not register them for truth (I mean in demonstrating the particular places) but only relate them as I was informed.  
There are seven sorts of Nations, 
The life of religious Christians.  different in Religion and language, who continually (enduring life) remain within this Church, having encloistered lodgings joining to the walls thereof: Their victuals are brought daily to them by their familiars, receiving the same at a great hole in the Church door: for the Turks seldom open the entry, unless it be when Pilgrims come: for this purpose each family have a Bell fastened at their lodging, with a string reaching from thence to the Church door, the end whereof hangeth outwardly; by the which commodity each furnisher ringing the Bell, giveth warning to his friends, to come receive their necessaries. The number of those, who are tied to this austere life, are about 350 persons being Italians, greeks, Armenians, Aethiopians, jacobines, a sort of circumcised Christians, Nestorians and Chelfaines of Mesopotamia. The day before the resurrection, about the hour of Midnight, the whole Sects and sorts of Christians Oriental (that were come thither in Pilgrimage, and dwelled at jerusalem) convened together, which were about the number of 6000 men, women and children: for being separated by the patriarchs in two companies, they compassed the Chapel of the holy Grave nine times; holding in their hands, burning Candles, made in the beginning pitiful and lamentable regréetings, but in the ending, there were touking of Kettledrums, sounding of horne-trumpets, and other instruments, dancing, leaping, and running about the sepulchre, with an intolerable tumult, as if they were all mad, or distracted of their wits. Thus is the progress of their procession performed in mere simplicity, wanting civility and government. But the Turks have a care of that; for in the midst of all this hurly burly, they run amongst them with long rods, correcting their mis-behaviour with cruel strokes. Thus are the slavish people, even at the height of their ceremonious devotion, strangely abused.  

An order of Knighthood.  Here the Guardiano offered for ten pieces of gold, (although my duébe 30 Chickens said he) to make me knight of the holy Grave, or of the Order of jerusalem, which I refused, knowing the condition of that detestable Oath I behoved to have sworn; but I saw two other Pilgrims receive that Order of Knighthood. The manner whereof is thus; First they bind themselves with a solemn vow, to pray (enduring life) for the Pope, King of Spain, and Duke of Venice, from whom the Friars receive their maintenance; and also in special for the French King, by whose means they obtain liberty of the great Turk to frequent these monumental places. Secondly, they are sworn enemies to all Protestants, and others, who will not acknowledge the superiority of the Roman Church. Thirdly, they must pay yearly some stipend to the order of the Franciscans. These attestations ended, the Friar putteth a gilded spur on his right heel, causing the young made knight to stoop down on his knees, and lay his hands on the holy Grave: after this he taketh a broad sword from under his gown (being privately carried for fear of the Turks) which is (as he said) the sword wherewith victorious Godfrey conquered jerusalem, & giveth this new upstart Cavaliero, nine blows upon his right shoulder. Lo here the fashion of this Papistical Knighthood, which I forsook. After our Guardiano had ended his superstitious rites and ceremonies, upon Easter day we returned to the Monastery, having stayed three days within that Church.  
April the two and twenty, on Monday morning, the Padre viccario, and the aforesaid john Baptista accompanying us, we road abroad in the hilly Country of judea. In this days journey, the places of any note we saw were these; First, where the Daughters of jerusalem came forth to meet Saul, crying Saul hath slain his thousand, and David his his ten thousand. Next, the valley of Trebin, where David slew the great Goliath. Thirdly, Bezura, where Absalon killed his brother Ammon for Thamar's sake, whereof nothing but the name is only reserved. Fourthly, the Castle of Emaus, in which our Saviour was known after his resurrection, 
Emaus, or Nicopoli.  by the two Disciples, in breaking of bread. Fifthly, the valley of Gibeon, where the Sun stood at the voice of joshua, from his natural course, joshua 10 12. Sixthly, the Tomb of Samuel, over the which Moors have a Moskee erected. 
A Turkish Church.  Seventhly, the Tombs of the valiant Captain judas Macchabeus, and his children, whereupon are now only the ruins of an old Chapel. And last of all, the burial place of the Noble Family of the Kings and Queens of Israel, or jerusalem: The entry whereof was so strait, that on our backs we behoved to slide down, above ten paces under the ground, with light Candles in our hands. In that spacious place we saw 24 Chambers hewn out of a marble rock. Each room hath a hanging stone door of a great thickness, so artificially done by the skilful Art of Masons, that the rarest spirit of 10000 cannot know how these doors have been made, so to move as they do, being afirme rock both below and above; and the doors have neither iron nor timber work about them: but by cunning are made so to turn, and in that same place where they grew they are squared; yea, and so exquisitely done, that the most curious Carpenter cannot join a piece of board so neatly, as these stone doors join with the Rock. In each of these rooms are two Sepulchres, wherein I saw the bones of some of these dead Princes.  
Tuesday the tenth day of my being at jerusalem, we issued forth of the City early, with our aforesaid Guides, riding Westward: The first remarkable thing we saw, was the place (as they say) where the Cross grew, whereon Christ suffered; being reserved by greeks, who have a Covent builded over it. That Cross is said to have been of four sundry kinds of wood, and not of one Tree, for they showed us but one hole wherein it grew, and so they hold it to have been all of one piece of Olive tree; but this I suspend, leaving it to be searched by the pregnancy of riper judgements than mine. About five miles further, we arrived at a village on the mountain of judea; where we saw a dis-inhabited house, in which Elizabeth the mother of S. john Baptist dwelled when Mary came up from Galilee to salute her; and near to this we beheld (as they say) the Sanctuary wherein Zacharias was stricken dumb till Elizabeth was delivered. Two miles further, on a rocky mountain, we arrived at a cave, wherein (say they) S. john did his penance till he was 19 years of age, after which time he went down to dwell at jordan: It is a pretty fine place hewn out of a rock, to the which we mounted by 12 steps, having a window cut through of a great thickness of firm stone, whence we had the fair prospect of a fruitful valley: and from the mouth of this delectable Grotto gushed forth a most delicious fountain.  
Returning thence, we passed over an exceeding high Mountain, from whence we saw the most part of judea; and to the Westward in the way of Egypt, the Castle of the Prophet Elisha. Descending on the South side of the same Hill, we arrived at Philip's fountain, in which he baptised the Eunuch of Ethiopia, standing full in the way of Gaza. Here we paid some certain Madins unto the Moors of the village, so did we also for the sight of every special Monument in judea.  
At night we lodged in Bethleem in a Monastery of the same Franciscans of jerusalem: after supper we went all of us (having Candles) to the place where our Saviour was borne; over the which there is a magnificent Church builded: But before we came where the Crubbe had been, we passed certain difficile ways; where (being arrived) we saw no Monument thereof, save only they did demonstrate the place, which is adorned with Marble, Sapphire, and Alabaster Stones. Not far from that they showed us the place over the which the star stayed, that conducted the three Wisemen from the East. From thence they brought us to a Cave without the Town, wherein (say they) the virgin Mary was hid, when Herod persecuted the Babes life (from which also being warned by the Angel) She, and joseph, fled down into Egypt with the Child.  
The earth of this Cave is white as snow, and hath this miraculous operation, that a little of it drunk in any liquor, to a woman that after her childbirth is barren of milk, shall forthwith give abundance: which is not only avalieable to Christians, but also Turkish, Moorish, and Arabianish women, who will come from far Countries, to fetch of this earth. I have seen the nature of this dust practised, wherefore I may boldly affirm it, to have the force of a strange virtue.  
Wednesday following, we hired four and twenty Moors, to conduct us unto Salomon's fish ponds, which are only three, being never a whit decayed; And to Fons Segnatus, whence cometh the water in a stone Conduit, along the Mountains that serveth jerusalem, which work was done by Solomon. Returning thence, and keeping our way Southward, we passed through the Ualley of Hebron, where jacob dwelled, 
Abraham, Isaac, and jacob were interred at Hebron.  and entered into the fields of Sychem; where Jacob's sons kept their father's sheep: and not far hence, they showed us a dry pit, which they called Joseph's pit, that was at Dothan, wherein he was put by his brethren, before they sold him to the Ismaelites. In our back coming to Bethleem, we saw a Cave in the Desert of Ziph, wherein David hid himself, when he was persecuted by King Saul, and the field Adra, where the Angels brought the glad tidings of salvation unto the Shepherds.  
Bethleem, 
Bethleem.  is the pleasantest village in all judea, situated on a pretty hill, and five English miles from jerusalem: It produceth commodiously, an infinite number of Olive, and figtrees, some Corns, and a kind of white wine, wherewith we were furnished all the time of our abode there; also in, and about jerusalem. In our way as we came back to the City, the Viccario showed us a little Moskee, kept by Turks, in which (said he) was the Tomb of Rachel, Jacob's wife, who died in that place, as she was traveling from Padan-Aram, with her husband jacob. The foundation also of a house, where Habacuck the Prophet dwelled; a Tree growing yet by the way side, under the which (say they) the Virgin Mary was wont to repose her herself in traveling. We saw also a natural rock in the high way, whereon (say they) Elias oft slept, and is not ashamed to say, that the hollow dimples of the stone, was only made by the impression of his body: as though the tender flesh of man could leave the print of his portraiture on a hard stone. And not far from this, they showed us the place, where the Star appeared to the Wisemen, after they had left Herod, to seek for the Saviour of mankind. Approaching Mount Zion, we saw a quadrangled dry pond, wherein (say they) Beershaba the wife of Urias, was washing, when David looked forth at his window, and was bewitched by her beauty. Over against this place, on the North side of Gehinnon, we saw the ruins of a Palace wherein David dwelled, which hath been one of the angles of the ancient City, and standeth at the division of the valley Ennon, which compassed (as a ditch) the North part of Mount Zion, even to the valley of jehosaphat, being now filled up with fragments of old walls, and the valley of Gehinnon lying West, and East, bordering along the south side of Zion, till it join also with the valley of jehosaphat, which environeth the East, and devalling parts of jerusalem. Near to this demolished Tower, we saw the habitation of Simeon, who having seen the blessed Messias, said: Now Lord let thy servant depart in peace, for mine eyes have seen thy salvation.  
April 25. and the twelfth day of my abode there, early on Thursday morning, the Guardiano, twelve Friars, and john Baptista (because that was the last day of seeing any more Monuments, or was to be seen there) accompanied us: as we issued at the South gate of the City, we came to a place, on the skirt of Zion, where (say they) Peter after his denial of Christ, wept bitterly.  
Descending by the side of that same Hill, we crossed the valley Gehinnon, 
Acaldema.  and came to Acaldema, the Potter's field, or field of blood, which is a little four-squared room, three parts whereof are environed with a natural rock, and the fourth square bordering with the valley, is made up of stone work: The top is covered, and hath three holes, wherethrough they let the dead Christians fall down; for it is a burial place of Pilgrims to this day. As I looked down, I beheld a great number of dead corpses, some whereof had white winding sheets, & newly dead, lying one above another in a lump, yielded a pestilent smell, by reason they were not covered with earth, save only the architecture of a high vault, which maketh, that in a long time the corpses cannot putrefy and rot.  
near unto this Campo, we entered into a dark Cave, where (say they) the Apostles hid themselves, when Christ was taken. At the foot of the same Ualley, we came to Ponto Nehemia, in which place the jews did hide the holy fire, when they were taken captives to Babylon; walking more downward, toward the valley of jehosaphat, we saw a dark cellar under the ground without windows, wherein (said the Guardian) the Idolatrous jews made a sacrifice of their children unto a brazen Image called Moloch, 
The Idol Moloch.  which being made hot, they enclosed them in the hollowness thereof, and so slew them: and lest their crying should have moved any compassion towards them, they made a thundering noise with drums, and other instruments, whereupon the place was called Tophet, mentioned in jer. 7.31. Hence we came to the Pool of Siloam; in which we washed ourselves, the water whereof falleth down through a Rock, from the City above, running straight to the valley of jehosaphat, and there we saw also the remnants of that sacked Tower of Siloam. near to this we saw a Fountain, where (say they) the Virgin Mary used often to wash the Babes clothes and linen clouts. From thence we crossed the Brook Cedron (which of old ran through the valley of jehosaphat, but now is dry) and came to the Tombs of Absolom and Zacharias, and the Cave wherein S. james was wont to hide himself from the persecuting jews. Ascending more upward on the hill, in the way of Bythania, we saw these places; where judas hanged himself, the withered fig-trée grew, and the house of Simon the Leper.  
Arriving at Bythania, we saw a Castle and Tomb of Lazarus, on whom Christ showed a miracle, in raising him from the grave, after he had been four days dead: Not far thence in the same village, we saw the decayed house where Martha, and Mary Magdalen inhabited, and the stone whereon Christ sat (say they) when he said to Martha, Mary hath chosen the better part. Returning thence, we left Bethphage on our left hand, and about midday, arrived on the top of Mount Olivet, 
Mount Olivet.  where we dined, and proceeded in our sights. From this place we had the full prosspect of jerusalem: For the City standing upon the edge of a hill, cannot be seen all at one sight, save on this Mountain which is three times higher than Mount Zion. These are the Monuments shown us upon the Mount of Olives: First, the print of the left foot of our Saviour, in an immovable stone, which he made, when he ascended to heaven; The Guardiano told us further, that the right feet print was taken away by Turks, and detained by them in the Temple of Solomon; But who can think our Saviour trod so hard at his Ascension, as to have left the impression of his feet behind him. Next the place where he foretold the judgement to come, and the signs, and the wonders, should be seen in the heavens before that dreadful day. Thirdly, the place where the Symbolum Apostolorum was made, which is a fine chamber under the ground, like a Church, having twelve pillars to support it. Fourthly, where Christ taught his Disciples the Pater noster, and where he fell in an agony, when he sweat blood and water. Fiftly, where Peter, james, and john slept, whiles our Saviour prayed, and returned so oft to awake them, and also below that, where the other Disciples were left. Sixthly, the Garden of Gethsemane, where Christ used commonly to pray, in the which place he was apprehended by the officers of the high Priests, and was also where judas kissed him, and the Sergeants fell backward on the ground. Seventhly, they showed us a stone marked with the head, feet, asd elbows of jesus, in their throwing of him down, when as they bound him, after he was taken, and ever since (say they) have these prints remained there. And lastly, at the foot of Mount Olivet, in the valley of jehosaphat, we descended by a pair of stairs of 43 steps, and 6 paces large, in a fair Church builded under the ground, where (say they) the monument of the assumption of the virgin Mary is, whom they think was borne in jerusalem, dwelled at Bethleem and Nazareth, and died upon Mount Zion. I saw also there, the Sepulchres of joseph her husband, joachim her father, and of Anna her mother. The valley of jehosaphat is two miles of length, lying South and North.  
Lo, I have plainly described, the whole Monuments I saw within, and about jerusalem, by the order of these 12 several days: the like heretofore, was never by any Pilgrim, so lively manifested. But as I said in the beginning of my description, so say I now also at the conclusion; some of these things are ridiculous, some of manifest untruths, some also doubtful, and others somewhat more credible, and of apparent truth. The recapitulation whereof, is only by me used, as I was informed by Gaudentius Saybantus the Padre Guardiano, Laurenzo Antonio il Viccario, and the Trouchman john Baptista.  
After this wandering up and down judea, I stayed in jerusalem three days, both reposing myself, and also preparing my necessaries for a new voyage; being determined to go down to Egypt, with a Caravan of Grand Cayro. In the last night of my staying at jerusalem, which was at the holy Grave, I remembering that bounden duty, and loving zeal, which I owe unto my native Prince, whom I in all humility (next and immediate to Christ jesus) acknowledge, to be the supreme Head, and Governor, of the true Christian and Catholic Church; by the remembrance of this obligation I say, I caused one Elias Bethleete, a Christian inhabior of Bethleem, to engrave on the flesh of my right arm, The Never-conquered Crown of Scotland, 
The Crowns of the two Kingdoms, and the great Arms of jerusalem, are to be seen engraven on his right arm.  and the now Inconquerable Crown of England, joined also to it; with this inscription, painfully carved in letters, within the circle of the Crown, Vivat jacobus Rex. For the which the old Friar was mightily discontented, and railed upon me, that I should (as he said) have endured so much pain for such an Arch-enemy of the Roman Church; but he not knowing how to mend himself, in the end I quenched and abated his calumnies, by a recitation of the incomparable virtues of our dread Sovereign, who for his bounty, wisdom, learning and government, was not equaled, nor paragonized amongst all the Princes of the earth: which he deeply conceiving, was stricken in admiration, and began to entreat me (if I lived) to return to my native Soil, that I would make it known unto his Majesty, the great tribulation and oppression they sustained under Infidels, to preserve the memory of these Monuments, especially of the holy Grave; for the maintaining whereof (said he) that great Monarch gave never any allowance, nor supported the poor afflicted Christians at jerusalem; which indeed, I promised to do, and also performed his request: For after my first arrival in England, most humbly did I report it to his Highness, in the privy Garden of Greenwich; who indeed gave me a most gracious and compassionable answer, saying: They never sought any help of him, and if they had, he would have supported their necessity.  
April 29. and the 16. day of my staying there, ay, and other ten Frankes, made covenant with the Caravan of 900 persons, bound for Egypt, for nineteen Piastres, the man to furnish us with Camels, or Dromidories to ride on, & to exoner us of all Caffars and tributes, in our voyage to Cayro: By which condition we had the advantage of two commodities: first, it freed us from the wrongs and extortions of savage Rascals by the way: Next, we prevented all cozening and deceitful dealing that might from the Captain have proceeded, whose fidelity in him, or such like, is seldom sufficiently to strangers approved.  
In the beginning of this journey greatly was I animated with the company of these Frank Pilgrims, which I found in jerusalem; but alas! no sooner was their society dear and acceptable to me, but as soon by death, was I robbed of all the ten, such was the will of the Almighty: some whereof died in the Deserts, 
The death of ten Pilgrims.  and the rest in Grand Cayro, leaving me, even as I was before, a solitary wanderer amongst ravenous Wolves, the particular rehearsing of which, would but aggravate my sorrow, and renew the remembrance of my bypassed melancholy. Not that I stood in need of any help, to stir up the alacrity of my mind, which of itself was innated by nature, and fortified in maturity, by propagating divers aspiring, and alacrious conceits; but my excessive grief was, because they daily pretended my good, whereby I was infinitely obliged to their kind, and undeserved courtesies. For where such proffer of love remaineth in the disponers, it breedeth always in the receivers a kind of dutiful obligation; and as it was in some honourable fashion extended towards me, so the remembering of it, shall add a greater grace, and reputation to strengthen the memory of their untimely death. Neither will I rely so much upon my own worthiness, as to think that benefit of the procrastination of my life, was by any merit of mine deserved; but that God so much the more might show his incomprehensible greatness, by that deliverance in my natural imbecility. For all the beginnings of man are derived from God, whose ends are either perfected or disannulled by his determination: and nothing we possess is properly our own, or gotten by our own power, but given us only through his munificence. And all the spaces of earth, which our feet tread over, the light we enjoy, and the excellent faculties we are endued withal; or what we can do, say, or think, is only raised, guided, and distributed by God's impenetrable counsel, will, and providence; which although the pride of our wicked nature, doth not yield the true attribution thereunto, yet the powerful working of the counsel of God is such, that in itself, it proveth an eternal wisdom, and confoundeth the foolishness of the world.  
Between Gaza in Palestina, and Saleak on the frontiers of Gozan, I had no sight of any remarkable object: for in all that six days journey, we traveled still in the night, to shun the intolerable heat of the Sun by day; wherefore it withheld from our eyes, the visible show of sandy and barren deserts, whiles our bodies felt the painful fruit of that mountainous ground, in the silent night: yet not so silent, but we saw often a concurrence of naked Arabs, partly living in haircloth tents, 
Arabs.  and partly in holes and Caves, who gave us divers assaults, and sometimes intercepted our forward going, notwithstanding of that refuge we had of the Castles in that waste wilderness, which are maintained by the Sultan of Egypt, for the succour of travelers.  
At Saleak we encountered with a great company, and 1200 Camels and Dromidores, which were laden with the wares of Damascus, and going to Cayro. A Dromidore, and Camel, differ much in quality, but not in quantity, being of one height, breadth, and length; save only their heads, and feet, which are proportionated alike, and the difference of quality is such, that the Dromidorie hath a hard-reaching trot, and will ride above sixty miles in the day, if that his Rider can endure the pain. But the Camel is of the contrary disposition: for he hath a most slow and lazy pace, removing the one foot from the other, as though he were weighing his feet in a balance; neither can he go faster, although he would: But he is a great deal more tractable than the other; for when his master loadeth him, he falleth down on his knees to the ground, and then riseth again with his burden, which will be a marvelous great weight.  
The red sea, which we left to the Westward of us, is not red, as many suppose, but is the very colour of other seas: The reason for which it hath been called Mare rubrum, is only because of the banks, rushes, sands, and bushes that grow by the shore side, which are naturally red. Some others have called it so, in respect of the brooks which Moses turned to red blood, who misconstruing the true sense, took seas for rivers.  
Arriving at Cayro, I lodged in the house of a French Consul, and on the second day, I went with two French Merchants, to view the three Pyramids, surnamed, The World's Wonders; which are distant from Grand Cayro, about four leagues, standing near to the banks of Nilus. In proportion they are quadrangled, growing smaller and smaller towards the top, and builded with great and large stones, the most part whereof are five foot broad, and nine foot long. All the Historians that ever wrote of these wonders, have not so amply recited their admirable greatness, as the experience of the beholder may testify their excessive hugeness and height. The first we approached unto, is biggest, whose height amounteth to (according to the computation of our Dragoman) 1092 foot. And at the bottom every square of the four faces is of breadth 450 foot. Having outwardly mounted by degrees, with great pain to the top, I was marvelously ravished to see such a square platform, all of one piece of stone, which covereth the head; each side whereof extendeth to 17 foot of my measure. It is yet a great marvel to me, by what engine they could bring it up so safe to such a height. Truly, the more I beheld this strange work, the more I was stricken in admiration: for before we ascended, the top of this Pyramid did seem so sharp as a pointed Diamond; but when we were mounted thereon, we found it so large, that in my opinion, it would have contained a hundred men. The middle Pyramid did look a far off somewhat higher than the other two: but when we came to the root thereof, we found it not so: for the stone-worke is a great deal lower, but the advancement of the height is only because of a high ground whereon it standeth. It is of the same fashion of the first, but hath no degrees to ascend upon: neither hath the third Pyramid any at all; being by antiquity of time, all worn and demolished, yet an admirable work, to behold such great masses, and (as it were) erected mountains all of fine marble. The reason why they were first founded, is by many ancient Authors so diversly conjectured, that I will not meddle therewith.  
Between the biggest Pyramid and Nilus, I saw a coloss, or head of an Idol, of a wonderful greatness; being all of one marble stone, erected on a round rock: It is of height (not reckoning the Columns) above 815 foot, and of circuit 68 Pliny gave it the name Sphingo, and reported much more of the bigness, largeness, and length of it. But howsoever he erred in his description, yet I resolve myself it is of so great a quantity, that the like thereof (being one entire piece) the world affordeth not; and may be reckoned amongst the rarest wonders. Some say, that anciently it was an Oracle, the which so soon as the Sun arose, would give an answer to the Egyptians of any thing by them demanded.  
In our way as we returned, our Dragoman showed us (on the bank of Nilus) where a Crocodile was killed by the ingenious policy of a Venetian Merchant, being licentiated by the Sultan. The match whereof for bigness and length, was never seen in that river, whose body was 22 foot, and in compass of the shoulders 8 foot. This cruel beast had devoured above 46 men and women, besides other creatures: and in his belly were found more than 60 rings of gold and silver, which the miserable bodies had worn in their noses, through their cheeks and under lips: for such is the custom of the people to wear their jewels. And if the base sort cannot attain to such like, than they sergeant their betters with rings of brass and lead, wearing also on their arms and ankles, broad bands of Iron continually.  
The garden wherein the only and true Balsamo groweth, is enclosed with a high wall, and daily guarded by Turks, who hardly will suffer any Christian to enter within, much less the jews: for not long ago they were the cause, that almost this Balm was brought to confusion. The tree itself is but of three foot height, which keepeth evermore the coloor green, having a broad three pointed leaf, and twice in the year it being incised, yieldeth a red water, which is the natural Balsamo. Not far hence, there is a place called Mommeis, lying in a sandy desert, where are innumerable Caves cut forth of a rock, whereunto the corpse of the most men in Cayro, are carried and interred, which dead bodies remain always unputrified, neither yield they any stinking smell.  
Grand Cayro is an admirable great City, and larger of bounds than Constantinople, but not so populous, neither so well builded: It was of old called Memphis, & was the furthest place that Ulysses in his travels visited, so well memorised by Homer; yet a voyage now of no such estimation, as that Princely Poet accounted it: for his travels are not comparable to some of these days wherein we live: It is situate in a pleasant plain, and in the heart of Egypt, being distant from Nilus about an English mile. It was called Cayro Babylonia: for there are two Babylon's, one in Assyria, which by the Turks is called Bagdat: and the other is this, which joineth with Cayro novo. The circuit of new Cayre is about 22 miles, not speaking of Cayre de Babylon, Medin, Boulak, & the great Town of Caraffar, being as Suburbs, & of many smals maketh up a little world, the length whereof in all is thought to be 28 miles, & of breadth 14. The principal gates are these, Babeh Mamstek, which is toward the Wilderness of the red sea: Bebzavillah, toward Nilus, and Babel Eutuch, toward the fields. The streets are narrow, being all of them almost covered, and the foundation of their buildings is raised upon two Stages height, to keep the people from the parching heat. The Bazar, or exchange beginneth at the gate of Mamstek, and endeth at a place called Babesh. At the corners of chief places there are horses to be hired, that for a small matter, a man may ride where so he will, to view this spacious spread City, and change as many horses as he listeth, having the masters which owe them, to convoy them.  
There is a great commerce here with all Nations under the heavens: For by their concurring thither, it is wonderfully peopled with infinite numbers. Such a multitude, and the extreme heat, is the cause why the pest is evermore in it; insomuch, that at some certain times 10000 persons have died thereof in one day.  
In this Town you shall ever find all these sorts of Christians, Italians, French, greeks, Almains, Georgians, Aethiopians, jacobines, Armenians, Syrians, Nestorians, Amaronites, Nicolaitans, Abessenes', Nubians, Slavonians, Gofties, Ragusans', and some captive Hungarians, the number of which is ever thought to be beyond an hundred thousand people; besides all other sorts of Infidels, as Turks, black and white Moors, Musilmans, Persians, Tartars, Indians, jews, Arabians, Barbarres and Sarazens. From the Castle wherein the Sultan habitateth, (which is builded on a pretty hill) you have the prospect of the whole City, the Gardens, and villages bordering on Nilus, and of the most part of the plain, and fertile places of Egypt,  
Egypt bordereth with Aethiopia, and the Deserts of Libya, on the South: on the North, with the sea Medirerrene: the chiefest ports whereof, are Alexandria, and Damietta: Toward the Occident with the great lake of Bouchiarah, and a dangerous Wilderness confining therewith; so full of wild and venomous beasts, which maketh the West part unaccessable: On the East, with a part of the red Sea, and deserts of Arabia, through which the people of Israel passed. In all the land of Egypt, which is a great kingdom, there is no Well or Fountain, save only the river Nilus, neither do the inhabitants know what rain is, because they never see any.  
This flood irriguateth all the low Plains of the land once in the year; which inundation beginneth usually in july, and continueth to the end of August, which furnisheth with water all the Inhabiters. 
The nature of Nilus.  There is a dry Pond called Machash, in the midst whereof standeth a Pillar of eighteen brasses height, being equal with the profundity of the ditch, whereby they know his increasing, and if in the year following they shall have plenty or scarcity of things. For when the water beginneth to flow above the ordinary course, it falleth down incontinently in this place, where it ariseth every day upon the pillar, sometimes a span, a foot, or two foot. At the time of his inunding, there are certain people appointed to watch the limits of his growth; For when the water waxeth to fifteen brasses, it is a sign that the next year shall be fertile: If if amounteth but to twelve, that year shall be indifferent; and it surpass not nine brasses, it presageth a great dearth and famine; and if it shall happen to flow to the top, all the country of Egypt is in danger to be destroyed.  
From Nilus are many ditches drawn along to the scattered villages in the plains, the water whereof entering in these narrow channels, the people have cisterns made of purpose, wherein they receive it, and conserve the same till the next inundation. At which time also they make great feastings, and rare solemnities, dancing, eating, drinking, singing, t●uking of drums, sounding of trumpets, and other oftentations of joy. There are infinite venomous creatures bred in this river, as Crococodiles, Scorpions▪ ugly misshapen worms, and other monstrous things, which annoy oft the inhabitants, and also those who trawick on the water. This famous flood beginneth under the Equinoctial line in Aethiopia, whence it bringeth the full growth down into Egypt, and in a place of the Aethiopian Alps, called Catadupa; the fall and roaring of this Nile, maketh the people deaf who dwell near thereunto: The common opinion is, that Prester jehan may impede the course of Nile to run through Egypt, which breedeth the cause wherefore the great Turk payeth him a yearly Tribute, lest by a malignant hatred he should turn the main Channel another way; and so bring Egypt to desolation. This Kingdom produceth no Wines, neither is garnished with Uineyards; but that which strangers do make use of, are brought from Candy, Cyprus, and Greece.  
In Cayro I stayed seven days, and embarked at Boullacque in a Boat: and as I went down the River, I saw these Towns, Salomona, Pharsone, Fova, an Abdan: In these parts there is a stone called Aquiline, which hath the virtue to deliver a Woman from her pain in Childbirth. In all this way, the greatest pleasure I had, was to behold the ●●re beauty of certain Birds, called by the Turks, Elloc●e; whose Feathers being beautified with the diversity of ●●rest colours, yield a far off to the beholder, a delectable show: having also this property, the nearer a man approacheth them, the more they lose the beauty of their Feathers, by reason of the fear they conceive when they see any man. Upon the fourth day I landed at Rosetta, and came over land with a company of Turks to Alexandria.  

Alexandria.  Alexandria is the second Port in all Turkey: It was of old a most renowned City, and was built by Alexander the great, but now is greatly decayed, as may appear by the huge ruins therein: It hath two Havens, the one whereof is strongly fortified with two Castles, which defend both itself, and also Porto vechio: The fields about the Town are sandy, which engender an infectious air, especially in the month of August, and is the reason why strangers fall into bloody fluxes, and other heavy sicknesses. In my staying here, I was advised by a Christian Consul, to keep my stomach hot, to abstain from eating of fruit, and to live soberly with a temperate diet. The rule of which government I strove diligently to observe: so did I also in all my travels, prosecute the like course of a small diet, and was often too small against my will; by the means whereof (praised be God) I fell never sick till my return into France.  
Twelve days abode I in Alexandria, and on the thirteenth I embarked in a ship belonging to Ragusa, in which I was kindly used, and Christian like entertained. The winds somewhat at the beginning favouring us, we weighed anchors, and set forward to Sea. In the time of our navigation, there died seventeen of our Mariners and Passengers, which bred no small grief and fear to the rest; being cast overboard in a boundless grave to feed the fishes. Five sundry times were we assailed by Cursaires, of Tunneis, Algiers, and Biserta; yet never captivated, or seized upon: such was the pleasure of God, and the resolute minds of the Ragusans, which are a kind of martial people. Fifty days were we crossed with contrary winds, tackling and boarding; in all this time we saw no land. And as Ovid said in the like case, Nil nisi pontus, & aer. Our fresh water being spent, we were constrained to bear into the I'll of Malta, where having given ground to the anchors; I dis-barked and bade farewell to the Captain and ships company.  
Malta was called Melita, mentioned Acts 28.1.2. where the viper leapt on Paul's hand; I saw also the creek wherein he was ship wracked. This Island may properly be termed the Fort of Christendom, yet a barren place, and of no great bounds, for their Corns and their Wines come d●●ly ●● Barks from Sycilia: But it yieldeth good store of P●●●●granates, Citrons, Cottons, Oranges, Lemons, ●●●es, Melons, and other excellent Fruits. The chief City is called Malta, from which the Island hath the name, having a goodly haven, and fortified with an impregnable ca●●●. The Maltazes had their beginning at Acre in Palest●● from thence to the Rhodes, & now exposed to this Rocky I'll. They are pertinacious Enemies to Infidels, continually making war and incursions against them, to their power: being strengthened also with many soldiers, and their Captains are surnamed Knights of Malta, and so through a great part of Christendom, it is a most honourable Order From thence I embarked in a Frigato, and arrived at Syracuse in Sycilia.  
Sycilia hath been famous in all former Ages, for by Diodorus Siculus it was cognominated, the paragon of Isles: by Titus Livius, the Garden of Italy. The greeks have celebrated much commendation to this I'll. It also was anciently called, the Grange of the Romans, and is never a whit decayed to this day: It excelleth in all sorts of grain, as corns, wheat, wine, sugar, rice, all kinds of fruit, wholesome herbs, sweet honey, excellent good silk, and the best Coral in the world is found here, growing under the water, green, and tender, but when arising above, it becometh red and hard: The like whereof is said to be found in the red Sea, and gulf of Persia. The chief Cities contained therein are these, Polermo, in which is the residence of the Uizeroy, a Spaniard: The second is Messina, wherein standeth the statue of john Duke of Austria, for that notable victory God gave him in the gulf Lepanto, against the Turks: The third is Syracuse, lying in the Southeast part toward Malta: And the fourth is Trapundy, which yieldeth surpassing fine salt, that is transported to Venice, Italy, Dalmatia, and Greece, made only by heating of the Sun, being drawn into certain pools. That sulphurean mount Gebello, called of old Aetna, burneth continually therein, yielding a terrible smoke, and fire, which by the nature of the thundering noise, and heat congealed in that Vulcan's furnace, it throweth from the horrible vents, huge stones of natural brimstone, insomuch that no people may resort near thereby. I saw also there a fountain, that a dog being cast therein, will presently die, but being taken forth dead, and slung into an other pool, shall forthwith revive. The I'll is of circuit six hundred, and large fifty miles: It was sometimes under the subjection of the Gauls, but now under subjection to King Philip of Spain: It is the only Girnelle of Malta, and a great help to the Napolitan State: The length of the Island lieth West and East, and is distant from Napolis fifty leagues; so much also from Sardinia, and forty leagues from Malta: The Sycilians are very industrious, much given to labour, and Mechanic Arts. Sycilia, Candie, and Cyprus, are almost all of one quantity, being the most commodious and noble Isles, within the straits of the Mediterranean Sea.  
From Polermo I embarked, and sailed close aboard the Coast of Calabria, and on the third day I arrived in Italy at a Town near unto Ostia, called Civitta-vechio; where having thanked God for my safe return to Christendom, I undertook a new Land-voyage. The special Cities I surveyed in Italy after my backe-comming, are these, Sienna, Florence, Luka, Pisa, Genua, Bullogna, Parma, Pavia, P●acen●a, Mantua, Milane, and Torino: The commendation of which is involved in these verses: 
jullustrat Saenas patriae facundiae linguae,  
Splendida solertes nutrit Florentia cives,  
Libera Luca tremit, ducibus vicina duobus.  
Flent Pisae amissum dum contemplantur honorem,  
Gewa habet portum, mercesque domosque superbas,  
Excellit studijs foecunda Bononia cunctis,  
Commendant Parmam, lac, cas●us, atque butirum,  
I●alicos versus prefert Papia Latinis,  
Non caret hospitijs perpulchra Placentia caris,  
Mantua guadet aquis, ortu decorata Maronis,  
Est Mediolanum jucundum nobile magnum,  
Taurinum exornant virtus, pietasque fidesque   
Having passed Torine, I kept my way through Piedmont, or Pede montano, and came over the steep and snowy mountain of Mount Cola di Tenda; after that I had two days journey, amongst the Rocky and intricating hills of Liguria, in which Hannibal had so much ado to conduct his Army to Italy. From thence I continued my voyage to Barselona in Spain, where I gave over my purpose in going to Madrile, and returned through a part of the Kingdom of Navarre: Crossing the Pirenei Mountains, I visited Langadocke, and Gascony; and keeping my way to Bordeaux, and the invincible Rochel, I arrived at Paris, from whence I first began my voyage, and there also ended my painful Pilgrimage.  Six years was I forth of Scotland, two years whereof I was clear out of Christendom: The computation of the miles I traveled from Paris till my return thither again, amounteth to thirteen thousand eight hundred fourscore and odd miles. 
Semper sit DEO laus.   
FINIS.