〈◊〉 here's mine Effigy and Turkish Suit;  
My Staff my Shash, as I did Asia foot:  
P●●●d in old ●●●yum; Pria●s Sceptre thralls;  
The Grecian Camp designed; lost Dardan falls  
Girded with small Simois: Ida's tops, a Gate;  
Tw● fatal Tombs, an Eagle, sacked Troyes State.   

The Totall Discourse, Of the rare Adventures, and painful Peregrinations of long nineteen years' Travails from Scotland, to the most famous Kingdoms in Europe, Asia, and Africa.  
Perfited by three dear bought Voyages, in surveying of forty eight Kingdoms ancient and modern; twenty one Reipublicks, ten absolute Principalities, with two hundred Islands.  
The particular Names whereof, are described in each Argument of the ten Divisions or Parts of this History; and it also divided into three Books: being newly corrected, and augmented in many several places, with the addition of a Table thereunto annexed of all the chief heads.  
Wherein is contained an exact Relation of the Laws, Religions, Policies and Governments of all their Princes, Potentates and People.  
Together with the grievous Tortures he suffered by the Inquisition of Malaga in Spain: His miraculous Discovery and Delivery. And of his last and late return from the Northern Isles, and other places adjacent.  
By William Lithgow.  
Imprinted at London by I. Okes, 1640.   

To his dear repected Friend William Lithgow.  
SHall Homer sing of strayed Ulysses toil▪  
From Greece to Memphis, in parched Egypt's soil▪  
Planked with old Pyramids, and melting Nile,  
Which was the furthest, he attained the while:  
A length of no such course, by ten to one,  
Which thou thyself pedestrially haste gone:  
Then may thy latter days outstrip old times,  
That now hast seen, Earth's circulary Climes:  
And far beyond Ulysses, reached without him,  
Both East and West, yea, North and South about him▪  
Which here exactly, thou hast sweetly sung  
In ornate stile, in our quick-flowing tongue;  
Of laws, religion, customs, manners, rites,  
Of Kings and people: life-sublimest spirits  
In policies and government: Earth's spaces  
From soil to soil, in thy long wand'ring traces.  
But what my soul applauds! and must admire  
Which every zealous Christian, should desire  
To learn and know; is this, Spain's torturing Rack,  
And torments sharp, which for the Gospel's sake  
Thou constantly didst bear: O joyful pain!  
Whilst Grace in those sad pangs, did thee sustain,  
With love and patience: O blessed lively faith!  
That for Christ's cause, condemned was to death.  
Live then (O living Martyr!) still renowned  
Amongst Gods elect; whose constancy hath crowned  
Reformed Religion: And let Heavens thy mind  
Bless with more joys, than thou didst torments find.  
Walter Lindesay.   

To my dear Friend, Countryman and Condisciple, William Lithgow.  

REst Noble Spirits in your Native soils,  
Whose high bred thoughts on dear bought sights are bend  
Renowned Lithgow by his brave attempt  
Hath eased your bodies of a world of toils.   

Not like to some who wrongfully retain  
God's rarest gifts, within themselves engrossed,  
But what thou hast attained with care and cost:  
Thou yields it gratis, to the world again.   

Upon the banks of wonder-breeding Clide,  
To these designs thy heart did first assent  
One way, indeed, to give thyself content,  
But more to satisfy a world beside.   

Thy first attempt in excellence of worth,  
Beyond the reach of my conceit's confined,  
But this thy second Pilgrimage of mind,  
Where all thy pains are to the world set forth;  
In Subject, Frame, in Method, Phrase, and Style,  
May match the most unmatched in this I'll:  
●●t this renowns thee most, t'have still possessed,  
● constant Heart, within a wand'ring Breast.   
Robert Allen.   

To his kind Friend and Countryman W. Lithgow.  
THy well adventured Pilgrimage I praise,  
Although performed with peril and with pain,  
Which thou hast penned, in more than vulgar phrase  
So curiously, so sweetly, smooth, and plain.  
Yet whilst I wondering call to mind again.  
That thou durst go, like no man else that lives;  
By Sea and land, alone, in cold and rain,  
Through Bandits, Pirates, and Arabian Thiefs,  
I do admire thee; yet a good event  
Absolves a rash design: So hardest things,  
(When humane reason cannot give consent  
T' attempt) attained, the greater glory brings.  
Then Friend, though praise & pains rest both with thee,  
The use redounds unto the world, and me.  
JOHN MURRAY.   

In commendation of the Author William Lithgow.  
COme curious eyes that pierce the highest scopes  
Of sublime styles: come satisfy your hopes  
And best desires; in this prompe Pilgrims pains  
Whose deep experience all this work sustains  
With solid substance, of a Subject dear  
And pregnant Method; laid before you here  
In open bonds: Come take your hearts delight  
In all the colours of the world's great sight.  
Come thank his travels, praise his painful Pen  
That sends this light, to live, mongst living men;  
To teach your children, when he and you are laid  
As low as dust; how sceptered Crowns are swa'd;  
Most Kingdoms government: How ruled with Laws  
The South World is: their rites Religious saws:  
Town Topographick view, and Rivers courses,  
Bonts, Forts, and Cittadales: scorched Asia's sources:  
All you may see, and much more than I name  
Sealed in the Author's neverdying fame.  
Eleazar Robertson.   

In commendation of this History.  
THou art not hatched forth from an other brain,  
Nor yet Collected from others toils thy sight,  
The self same Man, that bred Thee bears the pain  
Of thy long birth: O weary wand'ring wight!  
It's careful he, by Knowledge gives thee light,  
And deep experience to adorn thy name;  
Both Pilgrim, Penman, so thy Master right;  
Who best can judge in what concerns the same:  
Then freeborn toil, flee forth with winged Fame  
Thy Country's Virgin, thou the first penned Book  
That in his Soil, did ever Pilgrim frame  
Of curious Travails, whereon the learned look:  
Then knit thy Maiden brow, with Garlands green,  
The first of times, the last this age hath seen.  
Alexander Boyde.   

The Author to his Book.  
GO painful Book, go plead thy own Defence,  
Walk with undaunted Courage stop the breath  
Of carping tongues; who count it small offence  
To bulge Thee up within the jaws of Death:  
Go lively charged, with stout historian Faith,  
And trample down, base Critics in the Dust:  
Make Truth thy sword to batter down their wrath  
So shall thy Grave discourse, triumph as just:  
Who yield thee credit, and deserving trust,  
There prostrate fall, give them their hearts content:  
Point forth the Wise, and Court them as thou must,  
Give them in sight as I give argument:  
Instruct the curious, enlarge the Servile mind,  
Illuminate, mis-understandings blind:  
Sound knowledge in their ears; deign to approve me,  
Since Friends and Foes, the World and I, must love thee.   

The Prologue to the Reader.  
Judicious Lector: If good Books may be termed wise guides, then certainly true Histories may be termed perfect Oracles; Secret Counselors, private Schoolmasters: Familiar friends to cherish Knowledge, and the best Intelligencers for all intendments, being duly pondered, and rightly used. This laborious Work then of mine, depending on this Preamble, is only composed of mine own Eyesight, and ocular experience; (pluris est occulatos test is unus, quam auriti decem) being the perfect mirror, and lively Portraiture of true understanding, excelling far all inventions whatsoever, either Poetic, or Theoric, And now to shun Ingratitude, which I disdain as Hell, I thought it best to exhibit the profit of my painful Travails to the desirous World, for two respects; for as my dangerous adventures have been wrought out from the infinite variety of variable Sights, innumerable toils, pleasures, and inevitable sorrows; so doth it also best sympathize with reason, and most fitting that I should generally dispose of the same, to the temperate judgements of the better sort, the sound and absolute opinions of the Judicious, and to the variable censures of calumnious Critics, who run at random in the fields of other men's Labour, but can not find the homebred way in their own close grounds; and therefore the different disposition of the good and bad, do best concur with the interchangeable occurrences of the matter.  
Nevertheless, for thy more easier understanding, I have divided this History into ten Parts, and they also into three Books; which being seriously perused, doubtless thy Labour shall receive both profit and pleasure. Accept them therefore with the same love, that I offer them to thee, since they cost thee nothing but the Reading, how dear soever they are to me. But understand me better, I scorn to draw my Pen to the ignorant Fool, for I contemn both. To the Wise I know it will be welcome, to the profound Historian yield Knowledge, Contemplation, and direction: and to the understanding Gentleman, insight, instruction, and recreation: and to the true bred Poet fraternal love, both in mean and manner. Now as touching the hissing of snakish Papists, a tush for that snarling Crew; for as this Work, being fenced with experience and garnished with truth, is more than able to batter down the stinging venom of their despiteful Waspishnes: so also they may clearly see therein, as in a Mirror, their own blindness, and the damnable errors of their blind Guiders, Deceivers and Idolaters: And above all the cruel infliction imposed upon me, by the merciless Inquisition of their profession in Malaga; which for Christ's sake I constantly suffered, in Tortures, Torments, and Hunger.  
And lastly, they may perceive Gods miraculous Mercy, in discovering and delivering me from such a concealed and inhuman murder.  
And now referring the well set Reader to the History itself, where satisfaction lieth ready to receive him, and expectation desirous of deserved thanks. I come to talk talk with the scelerate Companion: If thou be'st a Villain, a Ruffian, a Momus, a Knave, a Carper, a Critic, a Bubo, a Buffoon, a stupid Ass, and a gnawing Worm with envious Lips, I bequeath thee to a Carnificiall reward, where a hempen Rope will soon dispatch thy snarling slander, and free my toilsome Travails and now painful Labours, from the deadly poison of thy sharp edged calumnies, and so go hang thyself; for I neither will respect thy Love, nor regard thy Malice: and shall ever and always remain,  
To the Courteous still Observant: And to the Critical Knave as he deserveth. William Lithgow.   

To his singular friend Mr. William Lithgow.  
THe double travail (Lithgow) thou hast ta'en,  
One of thy Feet, the other of thy Brain,  
Thee, with thyself; do make for to contend,  
Whether the Earth thou'st better paced or penned:  
Would Malagaes sweet liquor had thee crowned,  
And not its trcachery; made thy joints unsound,  
For Christ, King, Country, what thou there induced,  
Not them alone, but therein all injured:  
Their torturing Rack, arresting of thy pace  
Hath barred our hope, of the worlds other face:  
Who is it sees this side so well expressed,  
That with desire, doth not long for the rest,  
Thy travailed Countries so described be,  
As Readers think, they do each Region see:  
Thy well compacted matter, ornat Stile,  
Doth them oft, in quick sliding Time beguile,  
Like as a Maid, wand'ring in Flora's Bowers,  
Confined to small time, of few flitting hours,  
Rapt with delight, of her eye-pleasing treasure,  
Now culling this, now that Flower, takes such pleasure,  
That the strict time, whereto she was confined  
Is all expired: whiles she thought half behind,  
Or more remained. So each attracting Line  
Makes them forget the time, they do not tine:  
But since sweet future travail is cut short,  
Yet lose no time, now with the Muse's sport;  
That reading of Thee, after times may tell,  
In Travail, Prose and Verse, thou didst excel.  
Patrick Hannay.   

TO THE HIGH and mighty Monarch, CHARLES By the Grace of GOD, King of Great Britain, France, and Ireland, etc.  
Gracious SIR;  
IF Loyal Duty may be counted presumption? then doubtless the be●t of my meanest worth must beg pardon for claiming so Royal a Patronage: Yet to whom should I prostrate my Pen and Pilgrimage? if not unto your Sacred Majesty: Nay, none so able to Receive it, none so powerful to Protect it; and none so justly to claim it, as your Sovereign Self. The subject treateth of my tedious and curious Travails, in the best and worst parts of the world; which being begun in Your hopeful Infancy, are now finally accomplished in the fullness of Your thrice blessed Majority.  
The general Discourse itself, is most fixed upon the Laws, Religion, Manners, Policies, and Government of Kings, Kingdoms, People, Principalities and Powers; and therefore so much the more sit for your Majesty. The defect resting only in me, the worthless Author, in handling rare and plentiful Subject, with a homely and familiar Style; no ways fit for Sovereignty to peruse.  
Yet (Royal Sir) vouchsafe to remember how thankfully Alexander received a small Cup of water; and what a high Value was set upon the Widow's Mite. If I have made use of my poor Talon, the profit redoundeth unto my Country; which being shadowed under your auspicuous Favour, shall leave a greater stamp to the work, and a deeper impression, of future-knowledge, to the curious Understanders. And how often want your ever blessed Father, graciously to peruse Lines of mine, of far lesser note than these be: Yea, and (viva voce) the punctual Discourse of all my three voyages, which are now laid open to the Vulgar world; and therefore I dare humbly expect a greater favour for a larger and more serious Task.  
So likewise your own Princely adventures beyond Seas, in measuring large Kingdoms, & the glassy face of the great Ocean: have invited me to lay prostrate my painful peregrinations at your Sacred feet. Humbly beseeching your Regal goodness, to remark the matter and manner of this Work; howsoever the Gift, & the Giver be deficient. And questionless as the Bee, gathereth sweetest Honey out of sourest Flowers, your Royal understanding may find something, to underprop the Defects of my nothing; and my soul to exult in the smallest spark of your Gracious Clemency. And lastly, the grievous Sufferings, tortures, and torments I sustained in Malaga, being taken as a Spy for your Late Father's Fleet, exposed against Algiers: and condemned to death by their bloody Inquisition for the Gospels' sake. These (I prostrate say) do command me to present the perfect passage thereof, unto your Royal & Religious consrderation. Sufficient Certificates, and infallible approbations are annexed to the Tragical discourse itself; and it also humbly bequeathing all, unto your Princely Piety and Pity, to commiserate both my case and cause. Wherefore (and as duty bindeth) I shall ever beseech God to preserve your Royal Reign from wicked Achitophells', to guard your Sacred person with Heavenly Angels, and to guide your Monarchicke State, with faithful and Religious Counsellors.  
AMEN.  
Your Majesty's most humble, and most obedient Subject, and Servant: William Lithgow.   

Lithgowes 19 years' Travail.  


The first Part.  
SEe Rome discovered, Italy made plain,  
The Roman Library, a golden gain:  
Hunns old Parthenope, with Venice met,  
And strong Brundisium in Ottranto set:  
Times rich Antiquities displayed abroad  
On circling Cume, Avernus lying odd:  
And Lorets' Chapel, four times been transported  
On Angels backs, from Nazareth detorted;  
Where for discourse on this false forged Lady,  
To tend you with inveiglins, shall be ready:  
Thus piece and piece, from soil to soil I'll go,  
And now begin, the end will deeper grow.  
IT was a saying amongst the Ancients, that thrice happy and blessed was that Kingdom, when Old Men boresway, and ruled the State; and Young Men travailed abroad: The first by long experience prudently to execute Judgement; and the later by sight and knowledge of foreign soils and Laws, growing more judicious; might when come to Age and Preferment, the more facilely, and dexteriously exhibit Justice at home. But what shall I say to these modern and dissolute times? when by the contrary means Travail is slighted, Government abused, & insinuating homlings thrust in high Offices, incapable of them; being prattling Parrots, and sounding Cymbals, who convert sound Judgement and Justice to their own greedy respects, and self mercenary ends; turning their chiefest felicity to avaricious ambition and vainglory, and their sweetest fortunes to their belly and their back. O miserable and effeminate age! when virtue by most men is despised, and neglected, and sensual vice every where exalted: Nay, Ruffian Panders, by hopeful youth and prodigal Gallants are now Clothed, Coatched, and richly rewarded; whilst best merits and highest deserts of rarest Spirits, are neither looked to, set by, nor regarded. And for approbation, and examples sake, of their valorous designs, let them think upon latter passages, not worthy to be thought upon, and they will find this future Caveat to stand needful, Hoec olim meminisse juvabit. So likewise now, every Capri-cullion from Caesar to the Pascorell, can crowd and chaw from his warbling waspishness, this stinging censure of absurd untruth, that Travellers and Poets may lie, and lie by authority, which they themselves perform at home without leave.  
By which traditional concession, 
Concerning sinistrous censures.  I being absolve in the first, and borne to the Muses, as to the World, a mongrel to both; may have a lawful (unlawful) liberty assigned. Any marvel? if men in this kind be so injuriously censured, when the very Gospel itself, by perfidious Atheists, Formalists, Sophisters, Romish-Rabines, Nullifidians, and Schismatical Sectaries, is quartered, mangled, and rejected; such be the Satanical opinions of this Hellborn age; whose confused conceits, blasphemies, incredulities, and imaginary devisions, have shamefully stained the better part of this now best World. Nay, good and godly Kings, so pricked at, and wounded by the viperous murmurings of miscreant villains, as though their Royal and just lives were the mere inordinate patterns of all impiety, and lewdness. Sith therefore the sacred Scriptures, the gods of the earth, Ecclesiastic columes; yea, the name and fame of the most righteous alive, be thus diversely taxed, and vituperously calumniated; can prevention in me escape the lawless horror of this empoisoned fury? No, I have had already the assault, and newly prepared patience proof to receive more; wrought by the piercing hammer of nineteen winters, as many Summer's dear bought toil. Let venome-thundring-Criticks contumeliously carp, infernal firebrand Cerberus bark, and the Hell-prepared off scour of true religion gnashing grudge I have a heart can smile at their backbiting Malice, a judgement to discern such wormish wasps, and if present, the weight of understanding truth, to confound their blind absurdities with reason. As for Chambercomplements, whose vast insides, like to the vaults of wasting Strombolo, are become thred-beare, having their outsides only adorned with rich ornaments. 
Such serving Ciphers, cipher childish censures,  
And shallowscal-patched pates, have fore-bald tonsures,  
Yet touch a C. flat in his face he'll start  
As though a Dame had graced him with a—  
Whose wrings, winks, whose curious smiles, and words,  
And scraping feet, lost blandement affords:  
Whence pride and lust become two servile Mineons,  
To top his thoughts with false and fond opinions:  
Then happy they who least frequent a Court,  
Nor in the fields of flattery love to sport.  To such bellowing Caves, wound with the borrowed rags of patched up Comedies, clouted compliments, stolen phrases, and lip-licked labours, of Lampe-living spirits, to such hollow Tombs, I say a tush for their kindness, & I justly hold it a manifest idolatry to honour or do homage to any of them: And this much for the misconstruous lackjudgment of emulating Clouds, No Courtiers. And as concerning the impostrate quagmires of this abortive Age, wherein so many simonaical Matchevilians, mercenary parasites, and arch-betraying Sycophants live, vindicating themselves excessively upon the advantage of time, I insufficient I, to dive into such bottomless businesses, bequeath them only to their own repining Consciences, just trials, and ignominious rewards. To satisfy the World in my behalf, as touching my Travels, I sincerely protest, that neither Ambition, too much Curiosity, nor any reputation I ever sought, 
The reaso● why the Author begun his Travels.  from the bubbling breath of breathless man (whose defective censure inclineth, as instigation or partiality moveth his weak and variable opinion) did expose me to such long perigrinations and dangerous adventures past. But the proceeding whereof, thousands conjecture the cause, as many the manner; ten thousand thousands the effect: The condition reserved I partly forbear to penetrate in that undeserued Dalida wrong; and reconciled times pleading desistance, moderate discretion inserteth silent patience.  
The mansuet Cup, the gods consuetly drunk,  
In me involved, straight hony-gald it sunk:  
That sweet Ambrosian Nectar, sound wrapped  
In my locked Closet, suspicious Envy trapped;  
And fierce-eyed jealousy, winged with wind  
Pierced staring Argos, turned his hundred blind:  
Mycenae fancy fraught, Lust's fond all arms,  
Cros'deye-stard Sparta, rapt with Phrygian charms,  
And teare-rent Sophyre, Synon-like betrayed,  
What votall oaths, loves stern fort, ne'er bewrayed  
But high bred drifts, the stormy Fates, grim night,  
And gloomy Hellespont, robbed Heroes right:  
As Illion's destiny, forced Numidia's Queen,  
To gore a Sceptre, a Diadem in teen:  
So hapless I beloved, O passion strange!  
May as amazed, admire, that time, this change.  
I changed a Wolf, once for a Tusked Boar,  
And changing Beast for Beast, triumphed the more:  
Strained to assume, in counter cumbiat breath,  
A dying life, revert in living death:  
Translate it so, my Metaphor is such,  
That Time, nor I, nor Fortune can avouch:  
Thus passion whirling in a cloudy vale,  
I trancing fly, I fall, I hover scale:  
And whilst from Phleg'ran fields the weirds me call,  
I in Elysian plains amforced to fall;  
Wherein some flowery fair enamild ground  
I'll place my Tomb, mine Epitaph shall sound  
Of traine-shut sluices, of the Thespian spring,  
Where chatring Birds, Dodonian trees do sing:  
And mild Hydaspes streams do gently flow,  
There shall my Lesbian Lays, sad Liticks show.  
And where the Botean Roses strew the Hall,  
Where flot-glassed Nymphs, the Circe-fled Greeks install;  
There shall shrill Triton sound, Armilla's stained,  
Whom foul affection preyed, and Lucre gained;  
Load with the filth of dallying Lust and Sin,  
Where bloody murder, like a Thief crept in;  
Yet shall the spotless HEART, triumph in truth,  
When worth reaps fame, and virtue conquers youth.  
And crown Dorasmos, faith-plight Delphian Bays,  
With more than Laurel praise, immortal rays.  
Than brass-browed Fiends, accursed by Minos' doom,  
Flee Fairy flight, to Pluto whence you come;  
And taste Phlegeton, Lethe, court Proserpina,  
Stern Radamanth attends, such stinking vermin;  
There Hippolytus, slain Pirothous stay  
Near t' Acheron, (all faithless Lover's way)  
To welcome Fiendly, fright Eremiall guests  
With flame-flashed firebrands, sulphur scorching tastes:  
Chained fury-brangling, in remorseless pain,  
Where Belzebub, and Lucifer remain.  
In this umbragious Cell, there lurks a hound  
To bear● Sarpedons Sceptre; help to sound  
Your Cleopatran clamours; and I think  
The Ferrier Charon, makes such wretches drink  
Upon the Stygian banks. Then gnashing Spirits  
That howling wail, Hell's inexpugnate merits:  
Where's all your Gentry? for I dare conclude:  
That virtue's better born, than noble blood:  
This epitomised Epilogue, I send  
To them who best can censured, there's an end.  
But by your leave let me enter into consideration of the intractable passage of my malcontents passed, and these importunate Designs thereupon ensuing: And thus (have I) in the late days of my younger years been grievously afflicted? Ah; yea; and with more than disastrous injuries overclouded, O heavy underproped wrongs. But hath not the like accident befallen to man before? yea; but never the like condition of murder: Nay, but then preponderate seriously this consequent? may not the scelerate hands of four bloodshedding Wolves, facilely devour, and shake a pieces one silly straggling Lamb? yea, and most certain, that unnawares, the harmless innocent; unexpecting evil, may suddenly be surprised by the ambushment of life-betraying foes. All this I acknowledge; but whereupon grew this thy voluntary wand'ring, and unconstrained exile? I answer, that being young, and within minority, in that occurrent time, I was not only inveigled, but by seducements enforced, even by the greatest powers, 
A Dialogue between the Author and Himself▪  then living in my Country, to submit myself to arbitrement, satisfaction and reconciliation. But afterward growing in years, and understanding better the nature of such unallowable redresses, and the heinousness of the offence; I choosed rather (voti causa) to seclude myself from my soil, and exclude my relenting sorrows, to be entertained with strangers; than to have a quotidian ocular inspection, in any obvious object of disastrous misfortune: or perhaps any vindicable action, might from an unsettled ranckour be conceived. O! a plain demonstrate cause, and good resolution; for true it is, that the flying from evil, is a flying to grace; and a godly patience is a victorious freedom, and an undaunted conqueror over all wrongs; Vengeance is mine (saith the Lord) and I will repay it. To this I answer; mine eyes have seen the revenging hand of God upon mine adversaries, and these night-gaping foes are trampled under foot; while I from strength to strength, do safely go through the fiery trial of calamities. My consolation arising from the eternal dictum, quos amo castigo, whom I love I correct: And to say my part in my soul's experience,  
I never find affliction fall on me  
Without desert, for God is true and just:  
Nor shall it come, and without profit be,  
For God is good, as merciful I trust.  
Then welcome all afflictions sent from God,  
He whom he loves he chasteneth with his rod.  
And as one of the Ancients speaketh well, Adversa corporis, animae remedio sunt, aegritudo carnem vulnerat, sed mentem curate: The Affliction of the body, is wholesome Physic for the soul: it woundeth the flesh, but cureth the spirit. Certain it is, that the Lord in chastising his own doth often move the wicked Reprobates of his wrath, to be the instruments of his correcting hand. I could involume as large a Discourse upon this heart-grieving project, as upon the late intolerable tortures I sustained by the treacherous Governor, and bloody Inquisition of Malaga in Spain; being in quality, though not in quantity alike. But constantly containing myself within the precinct of patience, referring such eminences to the Creator, which in a part belongeth not to the Creature; I may sigh to this World, as sorrowful Aeneas to his Dido.  

Infandum Regina, jubes renovare dolorem.   

Thou wouldst, I should renew my former grief  
To speak of sorrow, helpless of relief:  
He melts in woes, that uttereth grief with words,  
Whilst deepest streams the greatest calm affords.   
But now to proceed in my punctual purpose, the nature of man, by an inward inclination, is always inquisitive of foreign News; yea, and much more affecteth the sight and knowledge of strange, and unfrequented Kingdoms, such is the instinct of his natural affection. Navigation hath often united the bodies of Realms together; but Travail hath done much more; for first to the Actor it giveth the impression of understanding, experience, patience, and an infinite treasure of unexperimable virtues: secondly, it unfoldeth to the World the government of States, the authority and disposition of Kings and Princes; the secrets, manners, customs, and religions of all Nations and People. And lastly, bringeth satisfaction to the home-dwelling man, of these things he would have seen, and could not attempt. Travel hath been in more request amongst the Ancients, than it is now with us in the latter Age. Philosophers, Poets, Historiographers, and learned Divines, how they have perigrinated to know the life of States, and the fashions of far Countries, would be an endless task for me briefly to relate. Many (I confess) long to see the remotest Region of the Earth, but dare not ●ndertake the dangers of sight, the chargeable expenses of a Tributary journey, the hard endurance of flint stones for a soft Featherbed, the extremities of thirst, nor the parching heat of the Sun, hunger in the belly, nor the moist distilling dew to be a humid Coverlet to their tender skin, with innummerable other ensuing miseries. But Ixion-like, mistaking juno, would by a mere imagination, run out the sleeping course of an endless peregrination. For my part, what I have reaped is by a deer bought knowledge, as it were, a small contentment, in a never contenting subject, a bitter pleasant taste, of a sweet-seasoned sour, and all in all, what I found, was more than ordinary rejoicing, in an extraordinary sorrow of delights.  
But now to leave the contemplation of attempts, to come to the real adventure: After two voyages I made to the Orcadian, and Zetlandian Isles; in the stripling age of mine adolescency, and there after surveighing all Germany, Bohemia, Helvetia, and the Low Countries from end to end; I visited Paris, where I remained ten months. Divers contestations have I had about the equality of London and Paris, in quantity and quality: But having a more serious subject in hand than this parallel, 
A comparison between London and Paris.  I conclude thus, the infinite shipping, and commodious navigation of London (besides their universal commerce) is more of value, than the better half of Paris: compare you the quantity, for there is the quality of the argument. Paris I confess is populous, a mass of poor People, for lacques and pages, a nest of rogues, a tumultuous place, a noctuall den of Thiefs, and a confused multitude: where chose, London is adorned with many grave, prudent, and provident Senators, civil, well-taught, and courteous people, and absolutely, the best governed City on the whole face of the earth; as well by night, as by day, and nothing inferior in quantity to it.  
FRom Paris (in the the year of God 1609. March 7) I set forward, being brought three Leagues on my way, with a number of my Country gallants, young Aiton, young Hutonhall, and specially Monsieur Hay of Smithfield, now Esquire of his Majesty's body, with divers other Gentlemen: where when my kindest thanks had overclouded their courtesies, and farewell bid on both sides, I bequeathed my proceedings to God, my body to turmoiling pains; my hand to the burden, and my feet to the hard bruising way. And as unwilling to make relation of my passing through France, the Savoyean, & Ligurian Alps, sith it is manifested unto many in this Island, both by sight and report, I would shun, so far as possible I can, all prolixity of known, and therefore unnecessary discourse.  
Although I have a large reason, having crossed the Alps at six several parts, only in the one place, I mean to comment upon Italy in general. Upon the 40. day after my departure from Paris, I arrived at Rome, of the which I will memorise some rarest things, and so proceed. This City of Rome now extant, is not that old Rome, which Romulus founded that tempered the mortar with the blood of his brother Rhemus, who disdainfully leapt over the new walls; and was once the mistress of the Universe for her Triumphs and Antiquities, but is now only the Carcase of the other, of which she retaineth nothing but her ruins; and the cause of them, her sins.  
Rome which Romulus first founded, contained these two mountains, 
The Antiquity of Rome.  Capitolino, and Palatino, with the valley lying between both Hills; having three Ports: the first was called Trigonio, because of the triangle it made near to the foot of mount Palatin: The second Pandonio, because it was always open, and for the commodity of the passage, it was called the free Port: The third was called Carmentale of Carmenta, the mother of evander who dwelled there: It was also named scelorata, or wicked gate in regard of 300. Sabines put cruelly to death issuing thereat.  
Now after the Monarchy of the Romans had attained to the full height; the Goths, a base and unknown people, displaying their banner against this glorious and imperial City, in the end razed, and subverted their Palaces, equalizing the walls with the ground. After the which detriment, and overthrow, the late subdued Romans, recovering their ruinous habitation, were enforced to withdraw the situation of the Town, a little more downward, in Campus Martius, close by the banks of Tiber; and transported the stones of these ransacked buildings to re-edify their new dwelling places.  
Hic ubi nunc Roma est, olim fuit ardua silva,  
Tantaque res paucis, pascua bobus erat.  
Where Rome now stands, was sometimes desert woods,  
And soil to feed, some few● found bestial goods.  
And yet Rome was once the famous City of Europe, the mother and nurse of worthy Senators, the miracle of Nations, the Epitome of the world, the Kingdom of Mars, and the seven headed sovereign of many Provinces. The seven hills whereon she stood, 
Rome's seven Hills.  and now partly somewhere stands: for they are all contained within the vast bounds of the old walls, which as yet environeth the town, are these, Palatino, Capitolina, Viminale, Aventino, Esquiline, Coelio, and Quiraneno. Which certainly do demonstrate the whore of Babylon, sitting on the Beast with seven Heads, and cannot be understood but of Rome, being builded on these seven Hills: having a correspondence to seven Kings who reigned there; and also acknowledging seven several Rulers, Kings, Consuls, Decemviri, Tribunes, Dictator's, Emperors, and now Popes. During the felicity of the Romans, this City was never taken, but by the Gauls, which being recovered they made a Law that Priests (being otherwise exempted) should go to War, if ever the Gauls came again; with whom they fought not for dominion, but for their own preservation: But since it became pontifical, it hath been made a prey to all Barbarous Nations, and never was besieged by any that took it not.  
The River Tiber which runneth through her bosom, is not unlike to jordan and Tagus; yet not so big as either of them, being all three of a troubled and muddy colour: But it is exceeding outrageous, & often menaceth to drown the whole Mansions, as grieving to grace the Walls of such a wicked and imperious a place: who having lost her former preheminent glory, and domination over the world would not allege and ascribe a second prerogative over the souls of men, the Heavens, the Hells, the Silver-coyned Purgatory, the deposing and imposing of Kings: the former was done by the undaunted courage of the invincible sword, the latter by presumption, Avarice, insinuation, and absurd lies.  
I remember of a pretty observation of Saint Katherine, 
Sain● Katherine's observation.  of Sienna, who being stricken in devotion, went to venerate Rome, accompanied with a goodly train; and having visited all the Monuments, supposed Holy places, and Religious relics there, for the space of five days: At last she came to take view of the Pope's Palace, where having spent a whole day, strictly remarking the gesture and carriage of the Pope's servants: She saw nothing but abomination, prophannation, and irreligious living, and worse than in Rome itself: Whereupon suddenly, the next day she departed for Sienna, being an hundreth miles distant; pitifully bewailing her journey, and the miserable livers she saw in Rome. Protesting always after for sixteen years' time till her death, that the Wind never came from the East, 
Meaning of Sodomy.  blowing Westward to Sienna, but she thought the filthiness of the Pope's Palace, and the beastliness of Rome, ever stunk in her nose.  
This River of Tiber especially made muster of his extravagant disgorgements, at that time when Pope Clement the eighth was Crowned Duke of Ferrara, auno 1589. and that same night he returned to Rome, Tiber waxed so proud of his arrival, that impetuously inunding his banks to make him welcome, he overwhelmed the better half of the Town: And if it had not been for the infinite charges of the Pope, and desperate toil of the people, the violent force of his rage swelling courtesy, had absolutely subverted and carried away the rest of the City. The like inundation was never seen of Tiber, as after this Coronation, portending, that as the first Gomorah was destroyed by fire, so this second Sodom should be sommerssed by water. The beginning of this River springeth from the Ombrian and Aquilean hills, joining with the Alps Apennine: whose course is fourscore and sixteen miles; dis-burthening itself in the Sea Mediterrene at Ostia twelve miles from Rome. The mouth and haven whereof have been long dammed up, to stop the passage of hostile and Moorish incursions, lest the City should be surprised on a sudden. By which slavish Ecclesiastic fear, Rome is shamefully defrauded of Shipping and foreign traffic: and if it were not for the Clergy, which are the two parts of the Inhabitants (besides the jews, and Courtesans, which are the greatest implements of the other third part) it would become the most miserable Town in Italy.  
And notwithstanding that for the space of 12 miles round about Rome, there are neither Corns nor Wines, nor Village, Plantage, or Cultinage, save only plain and pastoragious fields; intermingled at all quarters with ancient Watchtowers, being an old policy of the Romans, to prevent any sudden surprise of their enemies insomuch that at my first view of Rome, I imagined the people were all famished, or in danger of famishing.  
But by your leave, being once entered the City, I found abundance of all things necessary for life, at so easy and gentle a rate, that never a Town in Europe hitherto could show me the like. The common Wine that is drunk in Rome is Vin Romanisco, the better sort Albano, Muscatello, Sheranino, but as for Lachrimae Christi, the tears of Christ, I drew so hard at that same weeping Wine, till I found my purse begun to weep also; and if time had not prevented the sweetness of such tears, I had been left for all the last miserable mourner. As for the place where the Pilgrims find one Dinner, called the Pope's Table, 
The Pilgrim's dinner at the Pope's table.  it is thus: there is a certain low room at Saint Peter's palace, and without the gate, where every day at our nine of the clock, there meet 21 pilgrims; 14 from the Trinity, one having a bullet for all, and seven from Saint Peter's penitentials: where being received, the seven Jesuit Pilgrims get the upper place, and sit alone, yet all of them alike served, each of them having four dishes of meat, besides bread and abundance of wine. The dinner done, their fragments are wrapped up in clean paper, which they carry with them, and so departing, they, or like company come no more there. They are daily served with a very venerable Prelate, and a few other serviceable Priests, but for the Pope's presence with them, there is no such matter. That liberty being spoilt by a drunken Dutchman about 60 years ago, who in presence of the Pope gave up again his good Cheer and strong Wines, with a freer good will than they were allowed him, whereat the Pope grew angry, notwithstanding the drunken fellow cried through his belching throat, Thanks Holy Father, Dear Holy Father, God bless your Holiness.  
Many have wrote of the singularities of old Rome, and I will also recite some decayed Monuments thereof, which I have seen: The special object of Antiquity I saw, being never a whit decayed to this day, is the Templum omnium De●r●m, but now, omnium sanctorum, builded in a rotund●, and open at the top with a large round, like to the Choir of the Holy Grave. And a pretty way from this, are the remainants of that Ancient Amphitheatre beautified with great Columns, of a wonderful bigness and height, and a Mile in compass; the reason why it was first devised, the Ghosts of the slaughtered Sabines may testify. 
Rome's Antiquities.  To be brief, I saw the decayed house of worthy Cicero, the high Capitol, the Palace of cruel Nero, the Statues of Marcus Aurelius, Alexander, and his horse Bucephalus. The green hill, like unto Mount Cavallo, that was made of the Potter's shards at one time, which brought the Tribute gold to this Imperial Seat: the seven Pyramids, some whereof, during her former glory, were transported from Egypt: The high and small Statues of Peter and Paul, the Castle St. Angel. which Adrian first founded, standing now in a moderate circumferent height, with encircling battlements, and their doubtful transported Relics from jerusalem, with many other things I diligently remarked, some whereof were frivolous, some ambiguous, and some famous.  
Near to Mount Palatin, and the decayed Temple of Romulus, I saw the Temple of Venus, converted now to the Church of Sancta Maria, Liberatrice Dalla piene di Inferno, The deliverer from Infernal pains, as Venus was the Censolatrix of amorous pains.  
Besides all these I saw one most sight-worthy Spectacle, which was the Library of the Ancient Romans, being licentiated to enter with two Gentlemen, Sir William Car, and Mr. james Aughmuty, my Countrymen, where when I was come, I beheld a world of old books, the first whereof, was an infinite number of Greek Bibles, subscribed with the hands of these Holy Fathers, who (as they say) translated them out of the Hebrew tongue.  
I saw also the Academies of Aristotle, wherein he treateth of the soul, health, life, nature and qualities of men, with the Medicaments of Galen, for the diseases and infirmities of man: The familiar Epistles of Cicero, the Aencidot of Virgil, the Saphicke Verses of that Lesbian Sappho, 
Famous Authors.  the works of Ovid, Pliny, Plutarch, Titus Livius, Horatius, Strabo, Seneca, Plato, Homer, Tirentius, Cato, Hypocrates, josephus, Pythagoras, Diodorus, Siculus, Eusebius, St. Austin, St. Ambrose, St. Cyprian, St. Gregory, & likewise the works of other excellent Philosophers, Divines and Poets: all wrote with their own hands, and sealed with their names, and manuel subscriptions. I saw also the form of the first ancient writing which was upon leaves of Trees, cakes of lead, with their fingers on ashes, barks of Trees, with strange figures, and unknown Letters, that was brought from Egypt: for the Egyptians first devised the use thereof, and the sight of infinite Obligatory writings of Emperors, Kings, and Princes, which I omit to relate, referring the same to be Registered by the next beholder.  
Still left untold, something there must be seen,  
For them, who trace our feet, with Argos eyen:  
Yet let them stay, and take this verbal note,  
They who would better write, must larger quote.  
Bidding adieu to my company, and this Library, I longed to view the gorgeous Mosaical work of St. Peter's Church: The matter was no sooner conceived, but I went to the door, yet afraid to enter, because I was not accustomed with the carriage, and ceremonies of such a Sanctum Sanctorum: but at the last, abandoning all scrupulosities, I came in boldly, and on my right hand, as I entered within the door, I espied the portrayed Image of S. Peter erected of pure Brass, and sitting on a brazen Chair. The fashion of the people is this, 
The brazen Image of Saint Peter.  entering the Church, they go strait to this Idol, and saluting with many crosses his senseless body, kiss his feet, and every one of his several toes: insomuch that those his comfortless feet are grown fiery red, while his body, save his breasts, remaineth brazen blue: and yet for soothe some of their learned Rabincs will not have this superstition, but an humble commemoration of their adored Saints, or the like, for procuring favour of intercession, whilst the erected Idol (interum) receiveth all their superfluous abominations of diurnal worship. Next, they lay their heads under the sole of his right foot, and arising, rub their Beads on his hard costed belly: thus adoring that breathless mass of mettle; more than though it were a living creature.  
O wonderful and strange spectacle? that these only titular Christians, should become worse of knowledge then Ethnic Pagans, to worship and reverence the workmanship of men's hands. Woe and shame be unto you all blind Heretical Papists; Why should you make to yourselves Idols and Images of gold, silver, brass, Iron, stone, earth and tree? And notwithstanding would excuse the matter with a superstitious reason, alleging, you do it only in remembrance, where otherwise it is a damnable sign of wilful obdurate ignorance: May not the prohibition of the 2. Commandment of God's Law, which absolutely you abrogate, dividing the last Commandment in two; confound the error of this Idolatry, engrafted in your hardened hearts.  
What virtue can be in a lump of brass? or what comfort in the devices of handycraftsmen; Alas, nothing but eternal sorrow & condemnation. This was one of the lamentable errors I saw in the Roman Sea, amongst many other thousands: When the foolish Listranes or Licaonians would have sacrificed Bulls to the honour of Paul and Barnabas, 
Superstition of Papists.  they rend their clothes, and ran in among the people, crying, and saying; O men, why do you these things? we are even men subject to the like passions that you be: How is it then, That the Apostles being alive, would have no acknowledging by any homage of man; yet when they are dead, the Romanists will worship their counterfeit similitude, in stone or tree. What unworthy feigned Traditions and Superstitious Idolatry? What strange new devising tricks they use, to plant idle monasterial Loiterers? How many manner of ways these belly-minded slaves Epicure-like lead their lives? And what a Sea of abominable villainy they swim into, practising even unnatural vices, I mean of their wrongfully called Religious Bishops, Priests, Friars, Curates, and all the hypocritical crew, of these perversed jebusites, no heart can express; nor the most eloquent tongue can sufficiently unfold. Whose luxurious lives are vulgarly promulga● in this Hispanicall Proverb: 
Vnnas' tienen de gatto, y el habito de beato,  
El cruz en los Pechos, y el diabolo en los hechos.  
They have a Cat's claws, and a blessed Saints weed,  
The cross on their breasts, the devil's in their deed.   
But for fear of Excommunication from that Antichristian Courtesan, I dare not persevere longer herein: although I can; yea, and so truly bewray their all-corrupted estate, that I need no information of any Roman Novice Traveller. Of whose sight and experience, would God all the Papists in Britain had the like eye-witnessing approbation as I have had, I am certainly persuaded, with tears & sighs, they would heavily bemoan the terrible fall of that Babylonish whore, which in profane estimation) is their holy mother Church. For I sincerely swear to thee, O faithful Christian (as the Italian usually doth in his humours) by the golden tripled Crown of my ghostly Father, Paulo Papa quinto, whatsoever sacrilege, incest or villainy a Paplst committeth; let him come here, and fill the bribing hands of the Limonaicall Minions, of the thrice crowned Priest, (for Roma non captat ovem sine lana.)  
And he shall have Indulgences, Dispensations, 
Pardons for pennies.  adjoined Penances, or absolved Offences, for hundreds, thousands, less, or more years. The period of Time, after eight and twenty day's abode, wishing my departure, I hardly escaped from the hunting of these bloodsucking Inquisitors, of which the most part were mine own Countrymen, the chiefest of whom, was Robert Mophet, a jesuit borne in St. Andrew's, David Chambers, and of our College there, one Gordon, and one Cuningham, borne in the Cannon-gate of Edinburgh: And to speak truth, if it had not been for Robert Meggat, borne near to Newbattle, then resident in Burgo di Roma with the old Earl of Tyrone, 
My escape from Rome.  who hid me secretly for three days in the top of his Lord's Palace, when all the streets and ports of Rome were laid form, who conveying me away at the fourth midnight, and leapt the walls of Rome with me, I had doubtless died as hot a death as a Lady Prioress of Naples did afterward in my second Travels: And for better record Patrick Baxster, now dwelling in Dundy, and then followed the Earl of Tyron can justify the same, my custody and mine escape being both within his knowledge. Yet I may justly affirm) it in these parts a man can find no worse enemy than his national supposed friend, Religion being the cause of it, and at home none more false nor deceitful than a bosom friend.  
men's minds, their praises, best loves, and kind conceits,  
They hurling come and go, like fish at baits.  
And the Italian saith in his Proverb; God keep me from the hurt of my friends, for I know well how to keep me from mine enemies. From thence bound Eastward, I visited Naples, the commendations of which, I revolve in this verse; 
Inclyta Parthenope gignit Comitesque Ducesque  
Most noble Naples, breeds but Dukes and Earls,  
And gallant Knights, and Ladies load with Pearls.   
Amongst many other things near to this City, which in the conclusion of this Historical discourse be more particularly expressed (were Lacus Avernus, Sibilla's Cave, Puteoli, the Sulphurean mountain Capua and Cuma, where banished Aeneas, from Troy and Carthage arrived) I saw the Monument of Virgil's burial standing in the fore face of his own Grotto, that is cut through the mountain of Cataia, being passable for Coaches, and a half mile long; and affixed these lines thereupon: 
In Mantua from mother's womb,  
I first conceived breath;  
Parthenope reserve the Tomb,  
My Sepulchre of Death.   
Italy was called so of Italus, a King in Sicily, which first taught the people agriculture: The more impropriated names were Hesperia, because it is situate under the evening Star Hesperus: Latium, because Saturn driven from Crect by his Son jupiter, hic latebat abditus; and Ae●otria in regard of the abundance of wines it produceth. This Country was first said to be inhabited by janus, Anno Mundi 1925. From whom sprung the tribes of the Samnites, 
The first plantation of Italy.  Sabines, Laurentani, and Tarentines: The second Plantation was by Evander, and certain other Arcadians, who being banished from their native dwellings, seated themselves here: Thirdly, by the trojans, under the conduct of Aeneas, who forsaking the delicious lives of the effeminate Africans arrived here, & were kindly entertained by King Latinus, whose daughter Lavinea, Aeneas married: So thus from the Trojans the Italians brag of their descent; and so likewise boast divers other nations to have descended from that Dardan stock, as glorying in such a famous pedigree. The length of Italy is nine hundred Italian miles, though some allot a thousand, it is false, for I have trod four several times from end to end of it on the soles of my feet, even from Vallese, the first Town in Piedmont, descending mount Synais from La Croix southward, which secludeth Savoy; and to Capo Biancho in Calabria, hemmed in with the gulf Tarento on the one side, and the Faro of Messina on the other, it being the furthest promontore of Italy.  
So in a false description, some blind Geographers, through base ignorance, make England longer than Scotland in their Maps, when Scotland, by the best judgements and mine own better experience, is a hundred and twenty miles longer than England: It is a deocular error; which I could wish to be reform, as in the conclusion of this work I shall more credibly make clear.  
The breadth of Italy at the root and beginning thereof, bending along the Alps from the Adriaticke coast, to the riviera di Genoa, or Ligurian shore, is but 240. Italian miles, growing narrower, and narrower, till it shut out itself in two horns, Calabria, and Terra di Ottranto. The breadth of which, or either, extendeth not above fourteen English miles from sea to sea, the gulf Tarento (which is unnavigable in respect of infinite craggy shelves) deviding the two horns. On the North side of Terra di Otranto, lieth Apulta, bordering with Mare superum, a very fruitful soil for corns; & Westward thence boundeth terra di lavoro, or proprium regnum Napolitanum. These four territories make up the entire Kingdom of Naples: 
The Kingdom of Naples.  The chief Cities of which, are Naples, japua, and Salerno, in terra di Lavoro: In Calabria, are Couzensa, the chief seat of the Precedent, or Subvicegerent, Rhegio Allauria, and Montecilione: In terra di Ottranto, or Otranto, the which Town being taken by Mahomet the great, Anno 1481. involved all Italy in such a fear, that for a whole year, and till the expulsion of the Turks, Rome was quite forsaken, the next are Lucia, and Brunducium beautified with a famous haven.  
And in Apulia, are Manferdo, Arpino where Tully was borne, Venusio, whence Horace had his birth, and Canno famous for the victory of Hannibal, against the Romans. The Churchland begins beyond Rome eighty miles at Terracina, being just opposite to Gayetta, the West-most confine by the Marine of the Neapolitan Kingdom, near to Mount Circello, and the utmost Marine limit Eastward of Campagna di Roma, or the Church's patrimony, embracing both seas, till it run to Ponto Centino in Tuscana: which divideth the precincts of Re di Coffin, & Aquacupadente, the last frontiers of the great Duke and Pope's land. All which bounds to Terracina, and in the way of Venice, from Rome to Spaleto is denominated Campagna di Roma, or Latium; and thence it reacheth along Northwest, by the Venetian gulf, to the uttermost bounds of the Duchy of Ferara, being thirty miles from Venice: Extending in length to three hundred & fifty miles, whose breadth is narrow, and where it joineth with both Seas, it is but sixty miles. The Churchland is divided in four territories, Compagna di Roma, or old Latium; Rome, Viterbo, Narni, 
The four Papal Territories.  Tarni, Viletri, Montefiascone, and Civitavecchia, being the chief Cities: Next, the Country of Ombria, or Ombrosa, lying between Rome and Loretta, the chief Cities are Spaleto, from whence it is reckoned a Duchy, Perugia, a Sacerdotal University, Fulino, and Asisi, where great St. Frances with his invisible Stigmata was borne. At the which Asisi, I saw the place (as they say) where the Angel appeared to his mother, telling her, that she should conceive and bear a Son, should be the Champion of jesus, & hard by they showed me the Crib or stall where he was borne, with many other foolish lies both sinful and abominable: every way representing his imaginary life, like to the heavenly tract and resemblance of our blessed Saviour. The third is Marca di Ancona by the sea side, Ancona being principal, the other Cities are Asculi, Marcerata, Tolentino, Reginati, Aguby, and Parasitical Loretta. The fourth is Romania, lying along toward Ferrara, between the Sea, and the Hills Appenine.  
This Ecclesiastic dowry of Romania, is disjoined from Marca di Ancona, by the Duke of Urbin's lands, which division by the sea side is thirty miles in length, containing Pesaro, Fanno, and Sinigalia, all Seaport Towns; the other of this Duchy are Vrbino, and Castel-durante. The chief Town in Romania, is Ravenna, which for antiquity will not bow her top to none in Italy: Here the Pope's Legate remaineth, the other be Rimini, Fereola, Bullogna and Ferrara, and this much for the Pope's four Ecclesiastic territories.  
Tuscana or Aetruria lying South from the middle of this Churchland is 100 miles in length, and as much in breadth, 
The Duke of Florence his Patrimony.  I mean of that belonging to the great Duke: Which hereditary bounds was but lately enlarged by Ferdinando, Father to late Cosmus, and brother to Mary of Medicis, the French Queen Mother now living: Who annexed thereunto the Reipublicks of Pisa and Sienna: The other sequestrate Tuscan jurisdiction, is the little commonwealth of Luca: The chief City is Florence, whose streets are divided by the River Arno; the other of this principality, are Pisa, Sienna, Pistoia, Empoli, Leghorn, and Arretzo.  
From Tuscany to the West, and Northwest, lieth Lombary, entitled the garden of the World, which is now divided (besides the Venetian territory, of which I will speak in the own place) in four principalities, Milan, Mantua, Parma and Modena: The other Cities be Cremona, Pavia, Lodi, Pleasance, Rhegio Brisiles, Palestra, Navarro and Allessandria di Paglia. This Province is mainly watered through the middle with stately Po, in which Phaeton was drenched, when he came tumbling down from Heaven. The Rivers Ladishe, Montanello, Della Guarda, and other forcible streams supporting the shoulders of it.  
West from Lombary lieth Piedmont, 
Piedmont and Genuaes' Jurisdictions.  between it and Savoy: The City whereof, and wherein the Savoyan Duke hath his Residence is Torino, situate on Po. The other, Aste Verseilles and Cowie. South from Piedmont and Lombary, lieth the Riviera of Genoa, along the Mediterrean Sea: the territory of which is narrow, but above one hundred miles in length: All which is exceeding rocky and mountainous, yet producing good store of Oranges, Lemons, Figs and Chestnuts, whereon the Mountaineri only live, being either rosied, or baked in bread: the chief Cities of this Genewesen Liguria, are Genoa, and Savona. Italy lying in form of a leg, is on both sides environed with the Sea, save only the Northwest part, and root thereof, which is divided from France and Germany, by the Ligurian, Savoyean, Grisonean, Zingali●n, and Tirolian Alps, which bend North-east, 
Italy lieth ●s the right arm, reaching forth from the main body of Europe.  and South-west, enclosing it from the body of Europe from Sea to Sea. Italy of all other Regions under the Sun, hath been most subject to the vicissitude of Fortune, yet not a little glorying in these famous Captains, Fabius Maximus the buckler, and Camillus the sword of Rome, Scipio, Pompey, and Caesar; for Venerable Poets Virgil, Ovid, and renowned Horace, famous also for the Orator Cicero, and the Historians Tacitus, and Livius: The soil is generally abundant in all things necessary for humane life, and the people for the most part are both grave and ingenious, but wondrous deceitful in their actions, so unappeasable in anger, that they cowardly murder their enemies rather than seek an honourable revenge, and so inclined to unnatural vices, that for bestiality they surpass the Infidels: the women of the better sort are slavishly infringed from honest & lawful liberty: They of the middle rank somewhat modest in carriage, witty in speech, and bountiful in affection: They of the vulgar kind are both ignorant, sluttish and greedy; and lastly the worse dregs, their impudent Courtesans, the most lascivious harlots in the world. This much in general for the brief description of this Region, and so I revert to mine itinerary relation.  
In the mean while, having always a regard of my hasty dispatching from Christendom, I returned through Terra di Lavoro, by the Sea side, Campagna di Roma, anciently Latium, and Ombria, now the Duchy of Spaleto, even to Loretta, standing in a Marca of Ancona, addressing myself to Venice for transportation. But by your leave, let me lay down before your eyes some notable illusions of Modonna di Loretta, which I found in my way-faring journey, to amplify my former discourse, concerning the errors of the Roman Church, and as yet was never Englished in our language.  
Before I came near to Loretta by ten miles, I overtook a Caroche, wherein were two Gentlemen of Rome, and their two Concubines; who when they espied me, saluted me kindly, enquiring of what Nation I was? whither I was bound? and what pleasure I had to travel alone? After I had to these demands given satisfaction, they entreated me to come up in the Caroche, but I thankfully refused, and would not, replying the way was fair, the weather seasonable, and my body unwearied. At last they perceiving my absolute refusal, presently dismounted on the ground, to recreate themselves in my company: and incontinently, the two young unmarried Dames came forth also, and would by no persuasion of me, nor their familiars mount again; saying, they were all Pilgrims, and bound to Loretta (for devotion s●ke) in pilgrimage, and for the penance enjoined ●o them by their Father Confessor. Truly so far as I could judge, their penance was small, being carried with Horses, and the appearance of their devotion much less: for lodging at Riginati, after supper, each youth led captive his dearest Darling to an unsanctified bed, and left me to my accustomed repose.  
When the morning Star appeared, we embraced the way marching towards Loretta, and these virmillion Nymphs, to let me understand they traveled with a cheerful stomach, would oft run races, skipping like wanton Lambs on grassy Mountains, and quenching their follies in a Sea of unquenchable fantasies. Approaching near the gate of the Village, they pulled off their shoes and stockings, walking barefooted through the streets, to this ten thousand times polluted Chapel▪ mumbling Pater nosters, and Ave mariaes on their beads. When they entered the Church, 
Ignorant devotion.  wherein the Chapel standeth, I stood at the entry beholding many hundreds of barefooted blinded bodies, creeping on their knees and hands: thinking themselves not worthy to go on foot to this idly supposed Nazaretan House, like to this saying; 
Lauretum nudis pedibus, plebs crebra frequentat,  
Quam m●vet interius religionis amor.  
To Lorett people haunt with naked feet,  
Whom religion moves with loves fervent spirit.   
Unto this falsely patronised Chapel, they offer yearly many rich gifts, amounting to an unspeakable value, as Chains, & Rings of Gold and Silver, Rubies, Diamonds, silken Tapestries, Goblets, imbroudries and such like. The Jesuitical and Penitential Fathers receive all, but who so enjoy all, 
Ro●●es Avarice.  let Camera reverenda Romana, grant certification to this Loretan avariciousnesse, who fill their coffers twice in the year therewith. My four Pilgrims having performed their ceremonial Customs, came back laughing, and asked why I did not enter? But I as unwilling to show them any further reason, demanded what the matter was? O (said the Italians) jurando peril Cieloe Iddio Sacratissimo; This is the House wherein the Virgin Marie dwelled in Galilee: and to the confirmation of these words showed me a Book, out of which I extracted these Annotations.  
This Chapel they hold it to be the house, in which Mary was annunced by Gabriel, and wherein she conceived jesus, 
Damnable illusions of Loretta.  by operation of the holy Ghost, & in the mean time, that devotion waxed scant amongst the Christians of the Primitive Church in the Holy Land: stranger's Tyrannising over the territories of Canaan, as Heraclius, Costroes' King of Persia, Saracens, and Haran●one King of Egypt; it came to pass in the year of our Lord, 1291. and in the time of Pope Nicholas the fourth, that it being shaken off the foundation, was transported miraculously by Angels in the night, from N●zareth in Gallilee, to Torsalto in Slavonia: the distance being by sea and land 17. hundred Italian miles. O! a long lift for so scurvy a Cell. And in the morning, Shepherds coming to the place of pastorage, found this house, wherewith being astonished, they returned in haste, and told Saint George Alessandro, 
A simonaical vision.  the ●rior of T●rsali●▪ who in that mean while was lying sick. He being stricken in admiration with these news, caused himself to be borne thither, and laid before the Altar, and ●alling in a marvellous trance, the Virgin Mary by a heavenly Vision appeared to him, saying after this manner.  
BEhold, 
A Papistical Dreamed of Oration.  thou hast often pierced the heavens, with invocations for thy relief, and now I am come, not only to restore thee to thy health, but also to certify thee, that thou doubt nohting of this House; for it is holy in respect of me, 〈◊〉 chaste immaculate Virgin, ordained before all eternity, to ●e the Mother of the most High. It was in this Chamber my Mother Anna conceived me, nourished me, and brought me up, in singing Psalms, Hymns, and Praises to the glory of God, and also I kept in this room the blessed Infant jesus very God, and very Man, without any grievance or pain brought him up with all diligent observation: And when cruel Herod sought the Babes life, by the advertisement of the Angel, I, and my husband joseph, who never knew my body, fled with him down to Egypt. And after his passion, death, and ascension to Heaven, to make a reconciliation of humane nature, with the Court Celestial: I stayed in this house with john, and the other Disciple●▪ Who considering after my death, what high mysteries had been done into it, Consecrated and converted the same to a Temple, for a commemoration of Christ's sufferings, the chief of Martyrs. Also that resplending Image th●● seest, was made by Saint Luke (my familiar) for eternising the memory of my portraiture, as I was alive, by the commandment of him, who doth all things, and shall reserve this sacred Image to the world's end: That Cross of Cedar, which standeth at the ●●de of the little Western window, was made by the Apostles: These Cinders in the Chimney touch not, because they are the fragments of the last fire I made on earth: And that Shelf whereon my Linen clothes, and prayer Books lay, Let no person come near it: For all these places are sanctified and holy. Wherefore my Son, I tell thee, awake, and go recite the same which I have told thee unto others; and to confirm thy belief therein, the Queen of Heaven giveth thee freely th● health.  
Friar Alexander being ravished (say they) with the Vision, went and reported it to Nicholas Frangipano, Lord of that Country. And incontinently he sent this Prior and other four Friars to Nazareth, 
The shameful opinion of the Papist● concerning Lor●tta.  whereby he might know the truth thereof, but in that journey they died▪ The Virgin Mary perceiving their incredulity, caused Angels the second time to transport the house over the gulf of Venice, to a great wood near by the sea side, in the territory of Riginati in Italy, being 300. miles distant. Which, when the countrymen had found, and remarking the splendour of the illuminating Image, dispersed these ●ewes abroad. And the Citizens of Riginati, having seen what great miracles was daily done, by the virtue of this Chapel, imposed then to it a name, Our Lady of miracles. A little while after the people resorting to it with rich gifts, there haunted in the woo● many thiefs and cutthroats, who robbed and murdered the Pilgrims. Which innocent spilt-blood, pricking their pitiful Lady to the heart, she made the Angels transport it ●he third time, 
Four times transported.  and set it on the top of a little Mountain, belonging to two brethren in heritage, being forty four ●iles distant from the former place. But they upon a day quarrelling, and discording about the utility of the offerings to this House, the Angels did remove it the ●urth time, and placed it in a highbroad way, where it ●●ndeth unremoved to this day, which place is now ●●led the Village of Loretta; and from the last Station 〈◊〉 miles distant. 
● confirmat●● of the Popes.  This was confirmed by the Papal authority to be of an undoubted truth, after one hundred ●nd fifty three years' deliberation. Lo, as briefly as I ●ould, have I laid open to thy judicious eyes, the trans●ortations, Original, and Papistical Opinions of Lo●etta; protesting I have added nothing to the Authors ●escription, but only collected these special Warrants; ●●i●●ing other infinite foolish toys, conceived for their blindfolded credulity.  
This Chapel, or rather dwelling House, as they ●ould have it, stood always alone, till of late, that Pope ●lement 8. caused built a glorious Church over it: And ●ere by accident I encountered with a very courteous and discreet Gentleman, james Arthur, whose company was ●o me most acceptable: Our acquaintance being first ●ade at the beginning of the same voyage upon the mountains in Ferrara in Paese du Bourbon, and bound to visit Venice, in his returning home for Scotland, as well as he had done Rome and other Cities of Italy.  
Now I remember here of a prettyjest, for he and I going in to see the inravile● Image with sparrets of Iron, and musing on the blackness of her face, and the richness of her gown, all set with precious Stones and Diamonds; and because she is sightless, four Lamps of oil they keep always burning before her face, that the people may see her, because she cannot see them. There was, I say a young lusty woman hard by my elbow, busy at her Beads, who with the heat of the throng, and for lack of air, 
A fleshly false spr●ng miracle  fell strait in a sound: the women about her gave a shout, and cried that our blessed Lady had appeared to her; whereupon she was carried forth and laid upon the steps, that descend from the Chapel to the Church-floore, five hundred more came to visit her with salutations of Saint, Saint, O ever blessed Saint. Now it was Friday in the forenoon, and the woman having traveled all night, and to save charges of fish, had eaten a cold bit of her own meat privately in the Tavern, with half a Buckale of red Wine: The people more admiring this imaginary heavenly trance, than the relief of the woman; at last said I, brother Arthur, I will go open yonder woman's breast, and I did so: and holding up her head before all the people, there sprung a flood of vingarbo down the Alabaster stairs, intermingled with lumps of ill-chewed flesh: Whereat the people being amazed, from a Saint swore she was a Devil: And if my friend and I, had not made haste to carry the sick woman from the Church to a Tavern, doubtless they had stoned her to death; and here was one of their miracles.  
Another time, coming back from my second Travels in Africa, it was my luck to stumble in here again, where I saw an old Capouschin Friar conjuring the Devil out of a possessed woman, who had stayed there, and two men keeping her above eighteen months, being twice a day brought before the Chapel. The Friar stood up before her, the two men holding both her arms; and said, 
A Capouchin Friar conjuring the Div●l.  laying his foremost finger on her brow; In nomine Patris, etc. Io vi cargo a dirmi, per quale cagione, ha vete posseduto l'anima di questae poveretta; & vatine via ●o ti adjuro, alla quei luogi, dionde tu sei venuto: I charge thee to show me for what cause thou hast possessed the soul of this poor wretch, and I adjure thee to go back unto those places from whence thou camest. Mean while the woman stood dumb and silent for the space of a quarter of an hour, not being usual before: the people gave a shout, and cried the Devil had left her, whereat he that held her right arm did let it fall down by her side: but by your leave, in the twinkling of an eye, the Devil in the woman gave the Friar such a rattle in the face, that he was struck down upon his back among the people: and if it had not been that she was borne down with strength of hands, she had torn the silly old Conjurer in pieces: crying, O false and dissembling knave, pretendest thou to have power to cast out evil Spirits when thou thyself is in a worfer case than I, and all thy profession too; Hell, hell, is your reward.  
This is another of our Lady of Lorettaes Miracles, though many moe I could recite: as for any more virtue of this Cymberian Image, I have known sick folks loaden with all kind of Diseases, Cripples, lame, maimed, deaf, dumb, and numbers possessed with evil spirits lie here before this Lady, till I returned again from Asia and Africa, that same way: imploring, fasting and penitentially weeping for health; But alas poor souls, they lost their labour. When they had both spent all their means, and perhaps the poorest of them three day's attendance, and forced to my knowledge to return again to their several ●tations with sorrowful and comfortless hearts.  
O strange and wonderful frailty of men! what damnable imperfections domineer over our brainsick knowledge? Satan, thou Prince of darkness, hast so overseiled the dimmed eyes of their wretched souls, that notwithstanding of God's eternal Word, ordained to call them (through the spotless blood of Christ jesus) to be the heirs and adopted Sons of Salvation: yet thou all abominable enemy of mankind, overthrowest both their spiritual and natural understanding in a bottomless Ocean of dark ignorance; promising to thy obdurate soldiers, to build Castles in the Air; and contrariwise is busy, digging down dungeons, to welcome thy hellish eternised guests, with horrible torments, and never ceasing flames of everlasting fire. What wilfull-hearted man can be so apt to believe, that our blessed Lady had such estimation of mortar and stones, as to have (although she had, had power) caused Angels to transport a rotten house so often? No, I say, believe it who so will; questionless, the judgements of God in the truth of his allseeing justice, shall reward their too credulous minds accordingly: then shall they know their foolish and superstitious errors.  
But now to leave them with their Idolatry to stones, mettle, and Images, I come to their blasphemies against the sacred Deity: Look to the works of Bernardini de Busti, Bonaventure, and Fereolus Lucrius, how shamefully they derogate the glory from God, and attribute all grace, mercy and omnipotency, to the Virgin Mary. So Ludolphus and Chrysostome affirm, that Velocior est non unquam salus invocato nomine Mariae, quam invocato nomine Domini, vinci filij ejus: Men may oftentimes be sooner saved by calling on the Virgin Mary, than on Christ. Omnia quae Dei sunt, Mariae sunt, quia mater & sponsa Dei illa est, all things which are Gods, are the Virgin Maries, because she is both the Spouse, and the mother of God, saith a Rabbin of theirs: and as many creatures honour the Virgin Mary, as honour the Trinity, saith another: So, Imperio Virgins, omniafamulantur & Deus, all creatures and God himself, are subject to the Virgin Maries command. And in their Bonaventure Ladies Psalter, Monstra te esse matrem, & coge illum peccatoribus misereri, Show thyself a Mother, and compel him (viz. Christ) to have mercy upon sinners. Infinite citations could I produce, of such like intolerable attributes, besides the dividing of her in 1000 styles, 
The Virgin Mary divide● in a thousand Ladies.  viz. The Lady of the wines, Lady of the oils, Lady of the corns, Lady of the woods, Lady of the Mountains, Lady of the meeds, Lady of the sheep and goats, Lady of the springs, Lady of the fire, Lady of the shepherds; from earthquakes, thunder and fire-flashes, Lady of the Angels which is at Asisi in Ombria, Lady of miracles in divers places, Florence, etc. Lady of life in Bullogna newly found, Lady of all noble Ladies, and Nuns, Lady of the galleyslaves, Lady of shipwrecking seas, Lady of rivers and waters, Lady of young children, and orphans, Lady of all consolation, Lady of pure Virgins, Lady of distressed widows, Lady of the sick, and women with child, etc. Besides the powerful Lady of Mountserrata in Catalogna, the aforesaid miraculous Lady of Loretta, and the clementious Ile-ruling Lady of Trapundy in Sicilia, etc. Thus they make it manifest▪ that She, that is Lady of the one, is not Lady of the other; each of them having divers gifts, divers graces; divers powers, as they allege, divers Chappells, divers offerings, and divers pilgrimages, according to the several Seasons, eminent or past-perills, peculiar invocations, and the particular need of each family, man, woman, and living creature.  
Whereby it plainly appeareth, by their dividuall acknowledgements, she is neither superior in power, universal in power, nor equal in power to God: for if she were, one Chapel, one name, one place, one pilgrimage, one offering would suffice for all. They chatter over on their beads ten Ave mary's to our Lady, and but one Pater noster to Christ: They make their Orations thrice a day in the streets to the Virgin, and none to God: they say God divided the Kingdom with the Virgin, reserving to himself Justice, granted to his mother mercy, whereby if any man be aggrieved with God's Justice, he may appeal to the Court of her mercy.  
But to conclude their blasphemies, and horrible lies, blessed is the blessed Virgin Mary (the Mother of Christ according to the flesh) above all women for ever and ever.  
Leaving both this and Loretta, and returning to my purpose, james Arthur and I embarked at Ancona (15. 
Ancona.  miles from thence) in a Frigato; this City of Ancona, in the time of Trajanus the Emperor, flourished mightily in same, & reputation, and yet a gallant place to this day.  
Contemnunt omnes Ancona moenia Turcas.  
This Sea-strong Town, set on a Promontore,  
Defieth the Turks with its defensive shore.  
It glories not a little in giving name to the whole province lying between Ombria and Romania, and is situate on a Hill that shooteth into the Sea like a Promontore, having a fair Haven built by Trajanus. It hath but one gate, whence arose the Proverb Vn proto nel Ancona, u● Petro nel Roma, eu● Torre nel Cremona, One gate in Ancona, one Peter in Rome, and one Steeple in Cremona being exceeding high.  
Along this Adriaticke Coast, I saw no remarkable thing, save the two Cities Rimini and Ravenna: which were famous in the days of Octavius Caesar, but now somewhat impoverished, in regard of divers incursions sustained, and shoaring along with them, the Duke of Vr●ines three seaport Towns, Sinigalia, Fanno and Pesaro, we sailed by the mouth of Rubicon, called now ●issatello which julius Caesar passed over, against the Ordinance of the Senate, and afterward seized upon Rome, putting pompey to flight) I saw the place, where the bloody ●attell was fought between the French and Spaniards, 〈◊〉 Domini 1512. but the victory fell to the Gauls, ●th the loss of nineteen thousand men on every side, ●●d they have erected singular Monuments there, in a per●tuall memory thereof. After three days sailing (ha●ing passed by Malamucko, which is the Haven of the ●eat Venetian ships) we arrived at St. Marks place 〈◊〉 Venice.  
Mine associate and I, 
A grey Fri●● burned for villainous Leachering.  were no sooner landed, and per●iving a great throng of people, and in the midst of them great smoke; but we begun to demand a Venetian ●●at the matter was? who replied, there was a grey Friar ●●rning quick at S. Marks Pillar, of the reformed Order 〈◊〉 S. Francis, for begetting fifteen young Noble Nuns ●ith child, and all within one year; he being also their ●●ther Confessor. Whereat, I sprung forward through 〈◊〉 throng, and my friend followed me, and came just to 〈◊〉 pillar as the half of his body and right arm fell flat●●gs in the fire▪ the Friar was forty six years old, and had been Confessor of th●t 〈◊〉 of 〈…〉 years': Most of th●se young Nuns were Senators daughters; and two of them were only come in to learn virtue, and yet fell in the midst of vice.  
These fifteen with Child, were all recalled 〈…〉 their father's Palaces; the Lady Prioress, and the rest of her 〈◊〉 crew, were banished for ever from the precincts of Venice. The Monastery was razed to the ground, their Rents were allowed to be bestowed upon poor families, and distressed age, and their Church 〈◊〉 be converted to an Hospital▪ Most part of all which M. 〈◊〉 and I saw, before ever we either eat, drank, or ●ooke our lodging in Venice: And I cannot forget, how after all this, we being in hungered, and also 〈◊〉, tumbled in by chance, All 〈…〉, the greatest 〈◊〉 in all Venice, near to which the Friars bones were 〈◊〉 burning: And calling for a Chamber, we were nobly and richly served: After dinner they laid up our budgets and our burdens, and abroad went we to see the 〈◊〉 Night come, we supped, and supped alone; the 〈…〉 I begun to remark the grandeur of the Inn, 
The chief Venetian Ordinary.  and 〈◊〉 was time that we were gone: I demanded our 〈◊〉 what was to pay? he answered, Vn s●udo all 〈◊〉 par 〈◊〉 ripasto, a Crown the diet for each of us, being ten juleps or five shillings 〈◊〉 Mr. Arthur looked upon me, and I laughed 〈…〉 a word our dinner 〈…〉 four Crowns, whereat my companion being discontented▪ ●ad the Devil be in the Friars ballocks, for we had paid sound for his Lechery: many like deaths, 〈…〉 causes▪ and worse have I seen in all my three 〈◊〉, if time could permit me to 〈◊〉 them. But from this thou mayst play the learned Geometrician till 〈◊〉 findest more; and opportunity give thee occasion.  
Cingitur urbs Venetum pelago, ditissima nummis▪  
This Town most rich, to dare the Main is shut,  
In Neptune's bosom, and sea-streeted cu●.  
Venice is a Garden of riches, and worldly pleasures the chief flower of Commonweals, and the perfect mirror of civil and politic Government. This sequestrate City, is situate in the bosom of Neptune, and divided from the world, with a part of his main body, which invironeth the Island.  
The Commonwealth of Venice, 
The territories of Venice.  containeth Marcha del Trevisa, which lieth in Lombardy, containing these Cities, Trevisa, Milan, Vincenza, Verona, Brisc●a, the second City for bigness and beauty in all Lombardy, Ber●●mo, Chizza and Rovigno. Friuli, formerly called Fo●●m julij, lieth in the strait between the East end of the alps, and the sea Adriaticke, in length fifty, & in breadth forty miles. It hath been often subject to the vicissitude of ●ortune: The chief town is Treista in the bottom of 〈◊〉 gulf, and Palma lately built by the Venetians 158●. ●eing the most impregnable, and best fortified town in ●●aly: Furili was a Dukedom, founded by the Lombard's 〈◊〉 the beginning of the Venetian Commonwealth: Afterwards Luitprandus one of the Dukes, envying the increase of the dominion of Venice, made war against them, which ended in the loss of his own country. The rest be Istria, a part of Dalmatia, the Lands of Candy, Corfue, Zante, ●ephalonia, Serigo, Tino, Valdi Campare, Lesina, and o●her of lesser note.  
The Venetians howsoever of old, they have been great ●arriers; they are now more desirous to keep then in●arge their Dominions, and that by presents and money, rather than by the sword of true valour; so that whatsoever they lose by battle, it is observed, they recover again by treaties. The Venetians are said to have descended of the Hennets in Asia lesser, who assisting the Trojans, and Troy being lost, their King Pterilimene slain, they fled away with Antenor, and arriving in this part of Italy seated themselves, till the report of the Huns design against Italy, 
The first plantation of Venic●.  made them, (avoiding the storm before it fell) to draw into these Lands and Marshes, where now it standeth. It was first founded, and begun, Anno. 411. March 25. being distant from the main land five miles, and defended against the fury of the sea by the bank, extending to fifty miles in length: through which in eight places, there is passage broken for small boats, but no way for vessels of any burden, save at Malamucco, and the Castle of Lio: Yea, and so dangerous, that there is neither out-going nor incomming, without a Pilot, which maketh the City unconquerable.  
This City is seven miles in compass, and from so base an abject beginning, it is grown (as it were) to be the chief bulwark of Europe: The Duke of this Adriaticke Queen, espouseth the sea, every Ascension day, by casting a golden ring into it. Which stu●titious ceremony by Pope Alexander the third was granted, when he fled to Venice for succour, being persecuted by Frederick Barbarossa: And the Venetians vanquishing Otho the Emperor's son, restored the Pope, and for a reward, was honoured with this espousal.  
The length of the Territory of Venice in Lombardy, lying along the foot and South side of the Alps, amounteth to six score & five miles: the breadth whereof in the planure is narrow, but stripeth larger among the hills and lakes, and very populous.  
The applauding Italian saith, that Europe is the head of the World, 
The Venetians are sprung of the 〈◊〉  Italy the face of Europe, and Venice the eye of Italy; and indeed, it is the strongest, and most active part of that powerful body: Whereby it would appear, that in the last subversion of the latter Monarchy, the Roman Genius made a Pythagorical transmigration into Venic●; whose peace hath procured the plenty, and whose Wars the peace of Christendom. The Laws of this City permit not the younger sons of the best Gentry to marry, lest the number increasing should diminish the dignity: yet nevertheless they permit them unlawful pleasures, and for their sakes allow public stews. The jews here, and in Rome, wear red, and yellow hats for notice sake, to distinguish them from others: which necessary custom (would to God) were enjoined to all the Papists here in England, so should we easily discern them from the true Christians, And finally, to discourse upon the provision of their magnificent Arsenal, Artillery, Munition and Armour, the division of streets with channels, the innumerable bridges of stone and timber, their accustomable kind of living, apparel, courtesies, and conventions; and finally, the glory of Gallants, Galleries, Galleys, Galleasses and Galliouns, were a thing impossible for me briefly to relate. Wherefore since the situation thereof, and the decorements of their beautiful Palaces are so well known, and their general Customs by the better sort, I desist, concluding thus; this incomparable mansion is the only Paragon of all Cities in the World.  
Mine aforesaid Consort and I having spent ten days in viewing and reviewing this City and circumjacent Isles, and my purpose reaching for Greece and Asia, as he was to recrosse the snowy Alps, my muse remembreth our sad departure.  
Now friendly Arthur le●t me, 
Mr▪ Arthur 〈…〉 f●om Venice.  courts the main  
Of pleasant Lombardy: by Trent again  
Bears through the Alps, in his 〈◊〉 ways,  
And past Bavaria, where Danub●o strays.  
He fell on Rhyne, and down these curl came;  
Then shipped for Albion, near to Ro●terdame:  
And coasting Is●s, viewed that royal court,  
Where once Apollo did in glory sport;  
Fraught with Ambrosian Nectar; crowned his day's  
O● Pindus' tops, to have Maecenas praise.  
This light obumbrat, Arthur courts the North,  
The Earl of Glencarne.  
And served a noble Earl of ancient worth  
Full eighteen years: till death that darts our woe  
First smote his Lord, and then his Countess so:  
Now they are fled, and he is left alone  
Till heavens provide his hopes some happy one;  
Which if to his desert such fortune came,  
A Princely service might his merit claim.  
Where wishing both his fate, and worth to be  
I'll Venice leave, and visit Lombardy.  
In the time of my staying here, I went forth to Lombardy, and visited the famous Cities of Milan, Verona, and Ferrar●. The commendation of which is celebrated in these verses:  
Extollit Paduam, juris studiam, & medicinae.  
Verona, humanae d●t singula commoda vitae.  
〈◊〉 loculos ferrarea ●errea 〈◊〉.  
In P●dua I stayed three month's learning the Italian tongue, and found there a Country Gentlemen of mine, Doctor john Wed●erburne a learned Mathematician, 〈◊〉 now dwelling in Moravia, who taught me well in the Language, and in all other respects exceeding friendly to me. Milan is the most melancholy City in Europe, the cause only arising of the narrow passage of the open streets, and of the long Galleries and darke-ranges of pillars, that go alwhere on every hand of you, through the whole streets of the Town: The Scholars here in the night commit many 〈◊〉 against their private adversaries, and too often executed upon the stranger and innocent, and all with 〈…〉: for beastly Sodomy, it is as rife here as in Rome, Naples, Florence, 〈…〉 
A comparison of jews and Jesuits.    

The Second Part.  
NOw step I o'er the gulf, to th' Istrian sh●are,  
Dalmatia, Slavonia, Ilyria, more,  
Valona, Albana, Epire in Greece,  
And Morea fat, where jason hurt his fleece:  
The Adriaticke, and jonean Isles,  
And Lesinaes' great monster; Athens styles;  
With Lacedaemon sacked, and Sparta rend  
From ancient worth: Arcadia poor and shent:  
Our gulf Lepanto, the Aetolian height,  
And all these coasts, till Candy come in sight.  
AFter my return from Pad●a to Venice & 24. daye● attendance devasted there for passage, ● embarked in a Car●●esalo, being bound to Zara Novo in Dalmatia; scarcely had we lost the sight of Venice, but we encountered with a deadly storm at Seroc●e Lenante. The Master had no compass to direct his course, neither was he expert in Navigation; because they use commonly, either on the South or North sides of the Gulf, to hoist up sails at night, and again break of day they have full sight of land; taking their directions from the topped hill● of the main continent. The tempest increasing, and the winds contrary, we were constrained to seek up for the Port of Parenzo in Istria.  
Istria was called Giapidia, according to Pliny: Cato affirmeth it was called Istria of one Isir●, but by the modern Writers▪ L'ultima Regione di Italia. By 〈◊〉 it is said to be of length 100 miles, and forty large, but by mine experience only 80. long and 20. large.  
Istria hath on the South Friuli and the Sea: on the West Stria: on the North Carniola: on the East the Gulf Carnary or Quev●ro. 
The antiquity of the Istrians  It is thought the Istrians were first a people of Colchis in Anatolia, who by King Aet●s being sent to pursue jason and the Argonauts (who had stolen the golden Fleece and his daughter Medea) either because of the long journey, or fear of the King's anger durst not return, and so remained in this Country, where they enjoyed a long freedom, till by many incursions of piracy, still molesting the Venetians they lost many of their Towns, Anno 938. & afterward the whole Country made tributary by Duke Henry Gondolo about the year 1200.  
That part which bordereth with the Sea, belongeth to the Venetians, but the rest within land holds of the Emperor, and the Arch Duke of Austria. The Country itself aboundeth in Corns, wines and all kinds of fruits necessary for humane life. near to this Haven wherein we lay, expecting room winds, I saw the ruins of old justinopoli 
justinopoli, decayed.  so called of justinian the Emperor, who builded it upon an Island of eight miles' length, and three acres broad: and to pass betwixt the City and the firm land, there was seven bridges made. It was anciently strong, but now altogether decayed: the principal Cities in Istria at this day, are these, Parenzo, Humag●, Pola, Rovigo.  
The winds favouring us, we weighed Anchors, and sailed by the Isles Brioni, so much esteemed, for the fine stones they produce, called Istriennes: which serve to beautify the Venetian Palaces. About midday I saw Mount di Caldaro, on the foot of which, the ancient City of Pola is situated, having a harbour wherein small ships may lie. True it is, this Port is not much frequented, in respect of a contagious Lake near to it, which in●●cteth the Air with a filthy exhalation. I saw hard by this place, the ruins of the Castle di Oriando, the Ark Iriumphant, and the relics of a great Amphitheatre. This Pola was called by Pliny, julia pietas; and it standeth in the Southeast part of Istria. Continuing our course, we ●assed the perilous gulf of Carnaro.  
This gulf or bay of Carnaro, runneth in North, and by 〈◊〉 50. miles within land, at the narrow entry whereof, it hath a part of Istria on the West, and Dalmatia on the East: The Venetians use to keep always certain Galleys at the mouth of this bay, on the Dalmatian side, to intercept the cursary of the Scoks: In the bottom of this Carnarian gulf are placed Senna, Gradisca, and Novagard, the chief Cities of Croatia: the people which inhabit these Towns, and the adjoining Country are called Scoks, a kind of Dalmatians, being of a robust nature, courageous and desperate: Their weapons are broad two handed swords, long Skins, carrying Targets at their girdles, and long Guns in their hands: they are marvellous swift on foot, and daily annoy by land their neighbouring Turks with inroads, fetching away great spoils and booties, of Corns, cattle and Horses: and by Sea with Frigates and Brigantines, 
The Socks live under the House of Austria.  did ever and often vex the Venetian commerce, in their own domestic waters: the great losses which from these incursive people the Venetians had from time to time received, and the other damages they inflicted upon the Turks in their Trafficking with Venice, for whom the Venetians are bound by former Articles of peace, to keep harmless within their own gulf from all Christian invasions, was the only and urgent cause that moved the Venetians to wage War with Ferdinando then Duke of Grass, and now Emperor, Anno Domini, 1616. And besieged Gradisca to their no small disadvantage, both of charges and loss of men: for the Town being strongly fortified with walls and munition, and ●000. Socks within to defend it, would often at the near approaching of the enemy make a sally forth on horse and foot, giving many miserable overthrows to the Assailants: to the which detriments, for twenty day's space I was a testator, being after my return from Africa in my second travels, as 〈◊〉 I was going for Hungary, Moldavia, Valecchia and Transilvania, taking this Country in my way: And one morning at the break of day, I saw 800. Scoks issuing out of Town, make bloody havoc of 3000. of the Venetian army: 
Croatia.  This part of Croatia is exceeding fertile, abounding in corns, wines, bestial and pastorage, though then by lawless, and turbulent soldiers, it was miserably defaced.  
The whole number of these Scoks that are able to car●y Arms, be not above six thousand men: they are wonderful kind to strangers, which to me in no small measure was extended, and that by the better sort their Captains and Commanders, and only for the affinity of Scoki, and Scoti, although I dare swear, there is little or none at all betwixt the two Nations.  
Having passed Carnaro, we sailed close by the I'll San●●go, called formerly Illrides: this Isle is of circuit four ●●ore, and of length thirty miles. Our fresh water waxing scant, and the winds falling out contrary to our expectation, we sought into Valdogosto in the Isle of Osero, ●hich is a safe haven for ships and Galleys. This Osero ●as firstnamed Asphorus, and then Absirtides, of a Cap●●●ne Absertus, who came from Colchis, accompanied ●ith many people, to bring back Media to her careful ●●ther: whose purpose being frustrated, stayed still, and ●●habited this land. A fit opportunity obtained upon the ●●ghth day, 
Zara no●●▪  we arrived in the road of Zara in Dalmatia; 〈◊〉 there the Carmoesalo stayed, and I was exposed to seek ●●ssage for Ragusa.  
By the way, I recall the great kindness, of that Dalmatian Master, for offering my condition, I found him ●●ore than courteous, and would have no more but a ●●lfe of that, which was his bargain at Venice. Besides this, he also entertained me three days, with a most bountiful, and kind acceptance: My solitary travelling he oft bewailed, wishing me to desist, and never attempt such a voyage; but I giving him absolute and constant answers, appeased his imagined sorrow.  
True it is, that ignorance and sloth, make every thing terrible unto us, 
Ignorance and Sloth.  and we will not, because we dare not; and dare not, because we will not: This makes us submit ourselves to any thing, that doth either flatter or threaten us: and some like sottish weaklings, that give the reins of their government into the hands of their Wives or Servants, thinking than they buy their peace when they sell it; thus do they grow upon us, I mean ignorance and sloth, and by composition, not force, become masters of the place, being just so strong, as we are weak. And as contrary news delivered at one time, maketh one to hear with joy, and remember with sorrow; even so an unresolved man, in high and heroic designs, though seeming forward is distracted here, set one fear there, and rend asunder every where with the flashing frights of desperation: But a constant resolution can courageously support all things; Vbicunque homo est, ibi beneficio locu● est. And congratulating this Skippers courtesy, I bad farewell to his counsel.  
Zara is the Cappitoll City of Dalmatia, called of old jadara. The inhabitants, are governed by a Camarlingo, or Chamberlain, in the behalf of Venice. The walls whereof are strongly rampired with earth; surpassing the tops of the stone-worke: and fortified also with high Bulwarks, and planted Canons on elevated Rampires of earth: which are above forty Cubits higher than the Walls and Bulwarks; standing in the four several corners of the City.  
There lie continually in it, a great Garrison of Soldiers to defend the Town and Citizens, who are maintained by the Duke of Venice; for he is Signior thereof. They have endured many invasions of the Turks, especially in the year one thousand five hundred and seventy, when for the space of fourteen months, they were daily molested and besieged, but the victory fell ever to the Christians: if the Turks could win this place, they might easily command the Adreaticall Seas, in regard of that fair Haven which is there, to receive Ships and Galleys; which maketh the Venetians not a little fearful because of their safeguard.  
Yet they licentiate the neighbouring Infidels to Traffic with them; but when they enter the gates, they must deliver their weapons to the Corporal of the Squadron company: 
Dal●  neither may they stay within all night under the pain of imprisonment. Dalmatia was called so of Mauritius the Emperor. The four principal Provinces whereof are these, Atheos', Sexebico, Spalleto and Tragurio. A part of which belongeth to Venice, another part to the arch Duke of Austria, and a third unto the Turks. Zara is distance from Venice two hundred miles.  
When the wand'ring night was chased from the inferior Lands, by the recoursing day, and the Sun had imparted his brightness to our under neighbours, and our dreams ready to possess the Theatre of the fancy, the wearisome creatures of the world declining to their rest; and under shadow of the pale Lady of the night; even then, from Zara I embarked in a small Frigate, bound for Lesina, with five Slavonian Mariners: who sometimes sailed, and sometimes rowed with Oars: in our way we passed by the I'll of Brazza, which is of no great quantity, but fertile enough for the inhabitants, and kept by a Gentleman of Venice. It lieth in the mouth of the gulf Nare●to, that divideth Dalmatia from Slavonia; many fond conceive that these two Kingdoms are all one, but I hold the contrary opinion, both by experience, and by ancient Authors: having passed Capo di Costa, which is the beginning of Slavonia, I saw upon my right hand, a round Rock of a great height, in form of a Pyramid; being cognominated by Eastern Mariners, Pomo, anciently Salyro, for the good Falcons that are bred therein. It standeth in the midst of the Gulf between Slavonia and Italy, and not habitable.  
A little beyond that Rock, I saw the three Isles Tremiti: the chiefest whereof is called Teucria, but they are vulgarly called the Isles of Diomedes, who was King of Etolia. They are right opposite to mount Gargano, now called Saint Angelo, 
Mount St. Angelo.  and distant from the main land of Apulia in Italy above nine miles.  
This Mount Saint Angelo standeth in Apulia, bending in the Sea with a large promontore, it is in compass ninety miles. Near to this Mountain was that great battle fought, between H●niball and the Romans: the overthrow fell to the Romans, under the conduct of Paulus Aemilius, and other Consuls, of whom were slain forty two thousand and seven hundred; and if Hannibal had followed this victory, he had easily that day subdued the Commonwealth of Rome: which made Maharball Captain of his Horsemen rebuke him thus, Vincerescis Hannibal victoria uti nescis.  
Thou canst o'ercome thy foes in bloody fight,  
But can not use the victory aright,  
The like said Caesar of Pompey, when he lost the first Battle they fought at Pharsalia in Greece; O Pompey, Pompey, If thou hadst known how to have used the victory, as thou hadst it, thou mightest have been this day Lord of the whole World.  
So to our lamentable memory, may that last battle be Recorded fought in Hungary, 
A woeful Batt●ll.  between the Turks and Christians, of whom Maximilian Duke of Isbrugh this present Emperor's Uncle was General: who having had a nocturnal victory, and the Infidels put to the flight, they remaining in the Camp more busy about the spoils then their own safety; the Turks returned again before day, the Christians being disordered with booties and the ravening of their whores, they put them all to the edge of the sword: O miserable confusion! Little better might I speak of the battle of Lepanto being abused even in the using of it, and that glorious victory no ways followed, as good fortune had given them an awful opportunity: for Don john of Austria their General had a greater mind to feaze upon the I'll of Corfu, and to rob Venice of her liberty, then to prosecute with vengeance the brave beginning of so notable a victory; and yet his treachery was discovered, and by the Venetian General speedily disappointed, to his eternal shame both ways.  
The poor Slavonians being fatigated in their hunger-starving Boat, ●ith extraordinary pains (for we had three days calm, which is not usually seen in these Seas) were enforced to repose all night at the barren I'll of St. Andrew: This I'll is of circuit four miles, but not inhabited: the excessive rain that fell in the evening, made us go on shore, to seek the coverture of some rock; which found, we lay all night on hard stones, and with hungry bellies, for our provision was spent. The breach of day giving comfort to our distressed bodies, with favourable winds at the Garbo e ponente, we set forward, and about midday we arrived in the port of Lesina, of which the Isle taketh the name.  
This I'll of Lesina is of circuit, a hundred and fifty miles, and is the biggest Island in the Adriatic Sea: It is exceeding fertile, and yieldeth all things plentifully, that is requisite for the sustenance of man. The City is unwalled, and of no great quantity, but they have a strong fortress, which defendeth the Town, the Haven, and the vessels in the Road. The Governor, who was a Venetian, after he had enquired of my intended voyage, most courteously invited me three times to his Table, in the time of my five days staying there: and at the last meeting, he reported the story of a marvellous misshapen creature borne in the Island, ask if I would go thither to see it: wherewith (when I perfectly understood the matter) I was contented: the Gentleman honoured me also with his company, 
A Monster borne in Le●●●▪  and a horse to ride on, where when we came, the Captain called for the Father of that Monster, to bring him forth before us. Which unnatural Child being brought, I was amazed in that sight, to behold the deformity of Nature; for below the middle part there was but one body, and above the middle there was two living souls, each one separated from another with several members. Their heads were both of one bigness but different in Phisnomy: the belly of the one joined with the posterior part of the other, and their faces looked both one way, as if the one had carried the other on his back, and often before our eyes, he that was behind, would lay his hands about the neck of the foremost. Their eyes were exceeding big, and their hands greater than an infant of three times their age. The excrements of both Creatures issued forth at one place, and their thighs and legs of a great growth, not semblable to their age, being but six and thirty days old; and their feet were proportionably made like to the foot of a Camel, round and cloven in the midst. They received their food with an insatiable desire, and continually mourned with a pitiful noise; that sorrowful man told us, that when one slept the other awaked, which was a strange disagreement in Nature, The Mother of them bought dear that birth, with the loss of her own life; as her Husband reported, unspeakable was that torment she endured, in that woeful wrestling pain. I was also informed afterwards, that this one, or ●ther twofold wretch, lived but a short while after we saw them.  
Leaving this monstrous shapen Monster to the own strange, and almost incredible Nativity, we returned to Lesina. But by the way of our backcomming, I remember that worthy Gentleman, who showed me the ruins of an old house, where the noble King Demetrius was borne; and after I had yielded my bounden and dutiful thanks unto his generous mind, 
Demetri●●▪  I hired a Fisherboat to go over to Clissa, being twelve miles distant. This I'll of Clissa is of length twenty, and of circuit threescore miles: It is beautified with two profitable Seaports, and under the Signiory of Venice. There are indifferent good commodities therein; upon the South side of this Island, lieth the Isle Pelagusa, a rocky and barren place.  
Departing from thence in a Carmoesalo bound to Ragu●●, we sailed by three Isles, Brisca, Placa, Igezi; And when we entered in the Gulf of Cataro, we fetched up the sight of the I'll Melida, called of old Meligna: Before we could attain unto the Haven, wherein our purpose was to stay all night, we were assailed on a sudden with a deadly strome: Insomuch, that every swallowing wave threatened our death, and bred in our breasts an intermingled sorrow of fear and hope: And yet hard by us, and within a mile to the ley-ward, a Barbarian Man of War of Tuneis, carrying two tire of Ordnance, and 200. men, seized upon a Carmosale of Venice, at the first shot, she being loaden with Maluasia and Muscadine, and come from Candy, and had us also in chase, till night divided our contrary designs. The winds becoming favourable, and our double desired safety enjoyed, both because of the Sea-storm, and of the stormy Pirate, we set forward in the Gulf of Cataro, and sailed by the I'll Cursola: 
Cursola.  In this I'll I saw a walled Town, called Curzola, which hath two strong Fortresses to guard it. It is both commodious for the traffic of Merchandise they have, and also for the fine wood that groweth there, whereof the Venetian ships and Galleys are made: An Island no less pleasant than profitable; and the two Governors thereof are changed every eighteen Months, by the State of Venice.  
It was of old called Curcura Melena, and of some Corcira Nigra, but by the Moderns Curzola. Continuing our course, we passed by the Isle's Sabionzello, Torquolla, and Ca●za Augusta, appertaining to the Republic of Ragusa. They are all three well inhabited and fruitful, yielding corns, wines, and certain rare kinds of excellent fruits. It is dangerous for great Vessels to come near their Coasts, because of the hidden shelves that lie off in the Sea, called Augustini, where divers ships have been cast away in foul weather; upon the second day after our losing from Clissa, we arrived at Ragusa.  
Ragusa is a Commonweal governed by Senators, 
Ragusa.  and a Senate Counsel; it is wonderful strong, and also well guarded, being situate by the Sea side, it hath a fine Haven, and many goodly ships thereunto belonging: The greatest traffic they have, is with the Genueses: Their Territory in the firm land is not much in respect of the neighbouring Turks; but they have certain commodious Lands, which to them are profitable. And notwithstanding, of the great strength and riches they possess, yet for their better safeguard and liberty, they pay a yearly Tributary pension to the great Turk, amounting to fourteen thousand Chickens of Gold: yea, and also they pay yearly a Tributary pension unto the Venetians, for the Isles reserved by them in the Adriaticall Gulf, so that both by sea and land they are made tributary Citizens. The most part of the civil Magistrates, have but the half of their heads bare, but the vulgar sort are all shaved like to the Turks.  
This City is the Metropolitan of the Kingdom of Slavonia: Slavonia was first called Liburnia, next Illiria, of Illirio, the son of Cadmus: But lastly, named Slavonia, of certain slaves that came from Sarmatia passing the river Danubio, 
Slavonia.  in the time of the Emperor justininian: Croatia lying northwest from hence, is the third Province of this ancient Illiria, and was formerly called Valeria, or Corvatia. It hath on the west Istria & Carniola: on the East and South, Dalmatia: on the north northwest a part of Carindia quasi Carinthia, and Northerly Savus: So much as is called Slavonia, extendeth from the River Arsa in the West, the River Drino in the East, on the South bordereth with the Gulf of Venice, and on the North with the Mountains of Croatia: These Mountains divide also Ragusa from Bosna. Bosna is bounded on the West with Croatia, and on the South with Illiricum, or Slavonia, on the East with Servia: and on the North with the River Savus.  
The next two special Cities in that Kingdom, are Sabenica and Salona. The Slavonians are of a robust nature, martial, and marvellous valiant fellows, and a great help to maintain the right and liberty of the Venean State, serving them both by sea and land, and especially upon their Galleys and men of war. From Ragusa I embarked in a Tartareta, loaden with Corn, and bound to Corfu, being three hundred Miles distant.  
In all this way we found no Island, but sailed along the main land of the Illirian Shore: having passed the Gulf of Cataro, and Capo di Fortuna, I saw Castello novo, which is a strong Fortress, situate on the top of a Rock: wherein one Barbarisso, the Captain of Solyman, starved to death four thousand Spaniards. 
4000 Spaniards starved to death.  Having left Illiria, Albania, and Valona behind us, we sailed by Capo di Palone, the large promontore of which, extendeth to eight miles in length, being the face of a square and main Rock. This high land is the farthest part of the Gulf Of Venice, and opposite against Capo di 〈◊〉 Maria, in Apulia, each one in sight of another, and fourteen leagues distant. Continuing our Navigation, we entered into the Sea jonium: and sailed along the Coast of Epire, which was the famous Kingdom of the Epiroles, and the first beginning of Greece. Epirus is environed on the South, with the Sea jonian: On the East with Macedon; on the West Northwest, with Albania; and on the North, with a part of R●scia, and the huge Hill Haemus: Of which Mountain Stratonicus was wont to say, that for eight Months in the year, it was exceeding cold, and for the other four it was Winter. This long Mountain devideth also Greece from Mys●a, called vulgarly Bulgaria, lying on the North of Haemus, and on the South of Danibio, even Eastward to the Euxine Sea: which River parteth Dacia from Misia the superior, the which Dacia being an ancient and famous Country, containeth these Provinces, Transilvania, Moldavia, Vallachia, Servia, and Bosna: Here in this Kingdom of Epire; was the ●oble and valiant Pyrrhus' King, who made so great wars upon the Romans, and at last by a Woman of Argos was killed with a stone: The most valorous Captain George Gastriot, surnamed Scanderberg, the great terror and scourge unto the Turks was borne here; 
Scanderberg.  of whom it is recorded, he slew at divers battles with his own hands, above three thousand Turks; obtaining also many fortunate victories against Amurath and Mahomet: After whose death and burial, his body was digged up by the Turks, and joyful was that man could get the least bit of his bones to preserve, and carry about with him, thinking thereby, so long as he kept it, he should always be invincible, which the Turks observe to this day, and likely to do it till their last day. And more, 
Renoun'd Epire, that gave Olimpias life,  
Great Alexander's Mother, Phillip's wife.   
In this Country are these two Rivers, Acheron, and Cocytus; who for their mineral colours, and bitter tastes, were surnamed the Rivers of Hell; and the sacred Mount Pindus, celebrated by Apollo and the Muses, so well memorised by Poets, is here. It is now called Mezzona, at the foot of which springeth the River Peneia, called modernly Salepiros, but more properly Azababa, and keeping his extremest course through the fields of pleasure, named by the Ancients Tempi, being five miles long, and as much large, lying between the two Hills Osso and Olympus; and watering the beautiful plain, the fair Peneian spring, or Azababan River, disburdeneth itself in the Gulf Thessolonick. This is the first kingdom of Greece, & of a great length consisting between the west, most part of Albania, as a perpendicular Province annexed to it, & the Arcadian Alps, which divide Aetolia and Acarnania, the East-most regions of it, from Sparta, Thessaly, and the old Myrmidons country of Macedon, amounteth to 408. miles, lying along by the sea side, whose breadth extendeth all the way along Northward to the hill Haemus above 68 miles. The chief Town of Epire, where the Kings had their residence, was called Ambracia, modernly Laerto named of a River running by it: And upon the sixth day after our departure from Ragusa, we arrived at Corfu.  
Corfu is an Island, 
The I'll of Corfu.  no less beautiful than invincible: It lieth in the sea jonian, the inhabitants are Greeks, and the Governors Venetians: This Isle was much honoured by Homer, for the pleasant Gardens of Alcino, which were in his time. This Alcino was the Corcyrian Poet, who so benignly received Ulysses after his shipwreck, and of whom Ovid said, 
Quid bifera Alcinoi referam pomaria? vosque,  
Qui nunquam vacui prodistis in aethere rami,  
Why blaze I forth Alcinoes' fertile soil,  
And trees, from whence all times they fruit recoil.   
This Isle was given to the Venetians by the Corsicans, Anno 1382. because they were exposed to all the injuries of the world: It lieth like to a half Moon, or half a circle East and North: The Eastern Cape is called Leuchino, the other Northward, St, Katerina; the second Town whereof is called Pogleopoli: It is of circuit 120. in length 52. & 37. in breadth, and 14. miles distant from Epyre. The City Corfu, from which the Isle hath the name, is situate at the foot of a Mountain, whereupon are builded two strong Fortresses, and environed with a natural rock: The one is called Fortessae Nova, and the other Fortezza vecchie: They are well governed, and circumspectly kept, least by the instigation of the one Captain, the other should commit any treasonable affect: And for the same purpose, the governor's of both Castles, at their Election before the Senators of Venice are sworn; neither privately nor openly to have mutual conference; nor to write one to another, for the space of two years, which is the time of their government. These Castles are inaccessible, and unconquerable, if that the keepers be loyal, and provided with Natural and martial furniture. They are vulgarly called, 
Two strong Castles.  The Forts of Christendom, by the greeks, but more justly, the The strength of Venice: for if these Castles were taken by the Turks, or by the Spaniard, who would as gladly have them, the trade of the Venetian merchants would be of none account, yea the very means to overthrow Venice itself.  
Corfu formerly Corcyra, was by some called Phaeacia, so denominate from a Virgin of that name, who was here supposed to have been deflowered by Neptune. This I'll produceth good store of Wines, Oil, Wax, Honey, and delicate fruits.  
From thence, after certain days abode, I embarked in ● Greekish Carmesalo, with a great number of passengers, Greeks, Slavonians, Italians, Armenians, and jews, that were all mindful to Zante, and I also of the like intent; being in all forty eight persons: having room winds, and a fresh gale, in 24. hours we discovered the Isle Cephaloni the greater; and sailed close along Cephalonia minor, or the lesser Ithaca, called now Valdi Compare, being in length twenty, and in circuit fifty six miles, renowned for the birth of Laertes son, Ulysses.  
From th' Ithac Rocks we fled Laertes shore, 
●●●thaca where ●lysses was ●orne.   
And cursed the land that dire Ulysses bore.  
For Illion's sake, with Dardan blood attired,  
Whose wooden Horse, the Trojan Temples fired.  
On our left hand toward the Main, we saw an Island called Saint Maure, formerly Leucas, or Leucada; which is only inhabited by jews, to whom Bajazet the second gave it in possession, after their expulsion from Spain: The chief City is Saint Maure, which not long ago was subject to Venice. This I'll Saint Maure was anciently conriguate with the continent, but now rend asunder, and environed with the Sea: In the mean while of our navigable passage, the Captain of the Vessel espied a Sail coming from sea, he presently being moved therewith, sent a Mariner to the top, who certified him she was a Turkish Galley of Biserta, prosecuting a strait course to invade our Bark. Which sudden affrighting news overwhelmed us almost in despair. Resolution being by the amazed Master demanded, of every man what was best to do, some replied one way, and some another: Insomuch, that the most part of the passengers gave Counsel rather to render than fight; being confident their friends would pay their ransom, and so relieve them. But I the wand'ring Pilgrim, pondering in my pensive breast, my solitary estate, the distance of my Country and friends, could conceive no hope of deliverance. Upon the which troublesome and fearful appearance of slavery, I absolutely arose, and spoke to the Master, saying: 
A counsel to fight.  The half of the Carmosalo is your own, and the most part also of the loading: (all which he had told me before) wherefore my Counsel is, that you prepare yourself to fight; and go encourage your Passengers, promise to your Mariners double wages, make ready your two pieces of Ordnance, your Muskets, Powder, Led, and halfe-pikes: for who knoweth, but the Lord may deliver us from the thraldom of these Infidels: My exhortation ended, he was greatly animated therewith, and gave me thanks; whereupon assembling the passengers & Mariners, he gave good comfort and large promises to them all: so that their affrighted hopes was converted to a courageous resolution; seeming rather to give the first assault, than to receive the second wrong.  
To perform the plots of our defence, every man was busy in the work, some below in the gunner-roome, others cleansing the Musket, some preparing the powder & balls, some their swords and short weapons, some dressing the halfe-pikes, and others making fast the doors above: for so the Master resolved to make combat below, both to save us from small shot, and besides for boarding us on a sudden. The dexterous courage of all men was so forward to defend their lives and liberty, that truly in mine opinion we seemed thrice as many as were. All things below and above being cunningly perfected, and every one ranked in order with his Harquebuse and pike to stand on the Sentinel of his own defence, we recommend ourselves in the hands of the Almighty; and in the mean while attended their fiery salutations.  
In a furious spleen, the first Hola of their courtesies, was the progress of a Martial conflict, thundering forth a terrible noise of Gally-roaring pieces. And we in a sad reply, sent out a back-sounding Echo of fiery flying shots: which made an Equinox to the Clouds, rebounding backward in our perturbed breasts, the ambiguous sounds of fear and hope. After a long and doubtful fight, both with great and small, shot, (night parting us) the Turks retired till morning, and then were mindful to give us the new rancounter of a sec●nd alarm. But as it pleased him, who never faileth his, to send down an unresistable tempest, about the break of day we escaped their furious designs; and were enforced to seek into the Bay of Largastolo in Cephalonia, both because of the violent weather, and also for that a great leak was stricken into our ship. In this fight there were of us killed three Italians, two greeks, and two jews, with eleven others deadly wounded, and I also hurt in the right arm with a small shot. 
A notable deliverance.  But what harm was done by us amongst the Infidels, we are not assured thereof, save only this, we shot away their middle Mast, and the hinder part of the poop; for the Greeks are not expert Gunners, neither could our Harquebusadoes much annoy them, in respect they never boarded. But howsoever it was, being all disbarked on shore, we gave thanks to the Lord for our unexpected safety, and buried the dead Christians in a Greekish Churchyard, and the jews were interred by the sea side.  
This Bay of Largastolo is two miles in length, being environed with two little Mountains: upon the one of these two, standeth a strong Fortress, which defendeth the passage of the narrow Gulf. It was here that the Christian Galleys assembled, in the year 1571. when they came to abate the rage of the great Turk's Armado; which at that time lay in Peterasso, in the firm land of Greece, and right opposite to them; and had made conquest the year before of noble Cyprus from the Venetians.  
The I'll of Cephalonia was formerly called Ithaca, and greatly renowned, because it was the heritable Kingdom of the worthy Ulysses, who excelled all other greeks in Eloquence and subtlety of wit. Secondly, by St●abo it was named D●lichi: And thirdly, by ancient Author Cephalonia, of Cephalo, who was Captain of the Army of Cleobas Anfrittion. 
Cephalonia of old Ithaca.  The which Anfrittion, a Theban Captain having conquered the Island, and slain in battle ●terelaus, King of Teleboas, for so then was the Island called, gave it in a gift of government to Cephalo. This C●phalo was a noble man of Athens, who being one day at hunting, killed his own wife Procris with an Arrow, in stead of his prey, whereupon he flying to Amphitrion, and the other pitying his case, resigned this Isle to him, of whom it taketh denomination: Cephalonia lieth in the mouth of the gulf Lepanto, opposite to a part of Aetolia and Acar●ania in the firm land: It is in circuit 156. and in length 48. miles.  
The Land itself is full of Mountains, yet exceeding fertile, yielding Maluas●●●, Muskadine, ●ino Leati●o, Raisins, Olives, Figs, Honey, sweet-water, Pine, Molberry, Date, and Cypre-trees, and all other ●orts of fruits in abundance. The commodity of which redounds yearly to the Venetians, for the are Signiors thereof.  
Leaving this weather beaten Car●oesalo, laid up to a full sea, I took purpose to travail through the Island; in the first day's journey I passed by many fine Villages, and pleasant fields, especially the Vale Alessandro; where the greeks told me their Ancestors were vanquished in Battle by the Macedoniah Conqueror. They also showed me on the top of Mount Gargasso, the ruins of that Temple, which had been of old dedicated to jupiter: and upon the second day I hired two Fisher men in a little Boat, to carry me over to Zante, being twenty five miles distant.  
Here in Zante a Greekish Chirurgeon undertook the ●uring of my arm, & performed condition within time.  
The I'll of Zante was called Zacinthus, because so was called the son of Dardanus, who reigned there. And by some Hyria. It hath a City of a great length, bordering along the sea side, 
Zante.  the chief seat and I'll, and named Zante, over the door of whose Praetorium, or Judgement Hall, are inscribed these Verses.  
Hiclocus, odit, amat, punit, conservat, honorat,  
Nequitiam, pacem, crimina, iura, probos.  
This place, hates, loves, chastens, conserveses, rewards,  
Vice, peace, felony, laws, virtuous regards.  
And on the top of a Hill, about the Town, standeth a large and strong Fortress (not unlike the Castle of Milan) wherein the Providitore dwelleth, who governeth the Island. This City is subject yearly to fearful Earthquakes, especially in the Months of October and November, which oftentimes subvert their houses, and themselves, bringing deadly destruction on all. This I'll produceth good store of Rasini di Corintho, commonly called Currants, Olives, Pomgranats, Cytrones, Oranges, Lemons, Grenadiers, and Melons, and is in compass 68 Miles, being distant from the Promontore of Morea some 16. miles.  
The Islanders are Greeks, a kind of subtle people, and great dissemblers; but the Signiory thereof belongeth to Venice. And if it were not for that great provision of corn, which is daily transported from the firm land of Peleponesus to them, the inhabitants in short time would famish.  
It was credibly told me here by the better sort, that this little I'll maketh yearly (besides Oil and Wine) only of Currants 160000. Chickens, paying yearly over and above for custom 22000. Piastres, every Chicken of Gold being nine shillings English, and every Piastre being white money six shillings. A rent or sum of money which these silly Islanders could never afford, (they being not above 60. years ago, but a base beggarly people, and an obscure place) if it were not here in England of late for some liquorous lips, who forsooth can hardly digest bread, pasties, broth; and (verbi gratia) Bagge-puddings, without these Currants: And as these Rascal Greeks becoming proud of late with this levish expense, contemn justly this sensual prodigality, I have heard them often demand the English in a filthy derision, what they did with such Leprous stuff, and if they carried them home to feed their Swine and Hogs withal: A question indeed worthy of such a female traffic, the inference of which I suspend: There is no other Nation save this, thus addicted to that miserable I'll.  
Bidding farewell to Zante, I embarked in a Frigato, going to Peterasso in Morea, which of old was called Peloponesus: And by the way in the Gulf Lepanto (which divideth Etolia and Morea. The chiefest City in Etolia is called Lepanto: From thence Westward by the Sea side, is Delphos, famous for the Oracle of Apollo) we sailed by the Isles Echinidi, but by the Modern Writers, Curzolari, where the Christians obtained the victory against the Turks: for there did they fight after this manner.  
In the year 1571. 
Christian Generals▪  and the sixth of October, Don john of Austria, general for the Spanish Galleys, Marco Antonio Colonna, for Pope Pio Quinto, and Sebastiano Venieco for the Venetian Army, convented altogether in Largostolo at Cephalonia: having of all 208. Galleys, six Galleasses, and 25. Frigates.  
After a most resolute deliberation, these three Generals went with a valiant courage to encounter with the Turkish Armado, on the Sunday Morning, the seventh of October: who in the end, through the help of Christ, obtained a glorious Victory. In that fight there was taken and drowned 180. 
●he battle ●epanto.  of Turkish Galleys; and there escaped about the number of six hundred and fifty ships, Galleys, Galeots, and other Vessels: There was fifteen thousand Turks killed, and four thousand taken prisoners, besides 4000 pieces of Ordnance, and twelve thousand Christians delivered from their slavish bondage. In all, the Christians loosed but eleven Galleys & 5000. slain. At their return to Largostola, after this victorious battle, the three Generals divided innumerable spoils, to their well-deserving Captains, and worthy soldiers.  
And notwithstanding Don john, led that Armado, yet ambition led him, who in the midst of that famous victory, conceived a treacherous design, to seize upon the Castles of Corfu, under show of the Venetian colours, which being discovered, and he disappointed, died for displeasure in his return to Messina in Sicilia; where his Statue standeth to this day.  
After my arrival in Peterasso, the Metropolitan of Pelopenesus, I left the turmoiling dangers of the intricated Isles, of the jonean and Adriaticall seas, and advised to travel in the firm land of Greece, with a Caravan of greeks that were bound for Athens.  
Peterasso is a large and spacious City, full of Merchandise, and greatly beautified with all kind of C●mmercers. Their chief commodities, are raw Silks, Cloth of gold and silver, Silken grow-grams, Rich-Damask, Velvets of all kinds, with Satins and Taffetas, and especially a store-house for grain. The Venetians, Ragusans, and Marseillians have great trading with them: Here I remember, there was an English Factor lying, whom the Subbassa or Governor of the Town a Turk, caused privately afterward upon malice to be poisoned, even when I was wintring at Constantinople, for whose death the worthy and generous Ambassador, Sir Thomas Glover my Patron and Protector, was so highly incensed, that he went hither himself to Peterasso, with two janissaries, and a Warrant sent with him from the Emperor, who in the midst of the Marketplace of Peterasso, caused one of these two janissaries, strike off the head from the shoulders of that Sanzack; and put to death divers others also, that had been accessary to the poisoning of the English Consul: And the Ambassador returning again to Constantinople, was held in singular reputation even with the Turks, for prosecuting so powerfully the sword of Justice, and would not shrink for no respect, I being domestic with him the self same time.  
Pelop●nnesus, now called Morea, a Peninsula, is all environed with the sea, 
Morea i● Greece.  save only a narrow strait where it is tied to the continent by an Isthmus of five miles in breadth: which the Venetian then Lord of it, fortified with five Castles, and a strong wall from creek to creek, which easily were subverted by the Turkish batteries, the defect only remaining in the defendants weakness, and want of men: Corinth and its gulf, lieth at the East end of this Isthmus, and the Gulf Lepanto on the West, dividing Aetolia and Epire: The wall which traversed this straight of Morea, was called Hexamite, five miles long: Truly it is one of the most famous destroit du terre en Europe. Morea itself is in length 168. and in compass 546. Miles, and is at this day the most fertile, and best inhabited Province of all the Empire of Greece: The chief Rivers here, are Arbona and Ropheos: Argos here also is watered with the River Planizza, near which standeth the Town of Epidaure, wherein the Temple of Esculapius was so renowned for restoring of health to diseased persons. It was anciently cognominate Agalia, from Agalius the first King, An. Mun. 1574. and also entitled from two Kings Sicionia, and Apia, then Peloponesus from Pelops, and now Moreah. It is divided in five territories, or petty Provinces, Laconia, Arcadia, Argolis, Miseni●, & Eliso, the proper territory of Corinth. Of which City it was said, 
Hor. Let men take heed of Lais, Corinth's whore,  
Who earned ten thousand Drachmas in an hour.   
It is said by Aeneas Silvius in his Cosmographical treatise of Europe, 
The 〈◊〉 of M●rea.  that divers Kings went about to dig through this Isthmus to make it an Island, namely King Demetrius, julius Caesar, Caius Calig●la, & Domitius Nero: of all whom he doth note, that they not only failed of their purpose, but that they came to violent and unnatural deaths.  
But before the aforesaid Caravan at Paterasso admitted me into his company, he was wonderful inquisitive to know for what cause I travailed alone? and of what Nation I was? To whom I soberly excused, and discovered myself with modest answers: which pacified his curiosity; but not his avaricious mind: for under a pretended protection he had of me, he extorted the most part of my money from my purse, without any regard of Conscience.  
In the first, second, and third days journeying, we had fair way, hard lodging, but good cheer, and kind entertainment for our money, which was the Country Laconia. But on the fourth day, when we entered in the hilly and barren Country of Arcadia; where for a day's journey we had no Village, but saw abundance of cattle without keepers; and in that place it is thought the great battle of Pharsalia was fought between julius Caesar, and Pompey the great.  
Arcadia is bounded on the East with Eliso, on the West with Misenia, on the North with Achaia inferior, 
Arcadia.  and on the South with a part of Laconia and the sea: It was formerly termed Pelasgia, and lastly it took the name from Arcas the son of jupiter and Calisto, the people whereof did long imagine they were more ancient than the Moon.  
This soil of whom Arcas great Patron was,  
In age the Moon excelled, in wit the Ass.  
But because it is a tradition of more antiquity than credit, I do rather note it than affirm it: And as men should dread the thunderbolt when they see the lightning, so ignorance and Idolatry placed amongst us, and round about us, may be a warning to the professors of the truth, to take heed of the venom, lest by their Arcadian antiquity, surpassing the Moon, they become novices to some new intended Massacre, for as powder failed them, but alas, not poison! so now with policy they prevail in all things: how long the holy one of Israel knoweth, but certainly our sins are the causes of their domineering, & our careless drooping.  
In this desert way I beheld many singular Monuments, and ruinous Castles, whose names I know not, because I had an ignorant guide: But this I remember, amongst these Rocks my belly was pinched, and wearied was my body, with the climbing of fastidious mountains, which bred no small grief to my breast. Yet notwithstanding of my distress, the remembrance of those sweet seasoned Songs of Arcadian Shepherds, which pregnant Poets have so well penned, did recreate my fatigated corpse with many sugared suppositions. These sterile bounds being past, we entered in the Eastern plain of Morea, called anciently Sparta, where that sometimes famous City of Lacedaemon flourished, but now sacked, and the lumps of ruins and memory only remains. Marching thus, we left Modena and Napoli on our right hand toward the sea side, and on the sixth day at night we pitched our Tents in the dis-inhabited villages of Argo and Micene, from the which unhappy Helen was ravished.  
This cursed custom of base prostitution, 
The rapt of Hellen.  is become so frequent, that the greater sort of her mercenary sex, following her footsteps, have outgone her in their loathsome journeys of libidinous ways: she being of such an infinite and voluptuous crew, the arch-Mistresse and ringleader to destruction, did invite my Muse to inveigh against her lascivious immodesty, as the inordinate pattern of all willing and licentious rapts.  

I would thy beauty (fairest of all Dames)  
Had never caused the jealous greeks to move  
Thy eyes from Greece, to Illium cast flames,  
And burned that Trojan with adulterate love:  
He captive like, thy mercy came to prove,  
And thou divorced, was ravished with a toy:  
He swore fair Helen was his dearest dove,  
And thou a Paris, swore for to enjoy:  
Mourn may the ghosts, of sometimes stately Troy,  
And curse the day thou saw the Phrygian coast:  
Thy lecherous lust did Priam's pride destroy,  
And many thousands for thy sake were lost.  
Was't nature, fortune, fancy, beauty, birth,  
That crossed thee so, to be a cross on earth.   

Some of thy Sex, baptised with thy cursed name,  
Crowned with thy fate, are partners in thy shame:  
Helen's are snakes, which breed their lover's pain,  
The maps of malice, murder, and disdain:  
Helen's are gulfs, whence streams of blood do flow,  
Rapine, deceit, treason, and overthrow:  
Helen's are whores, whiles in a Virgin Mask,  
They suck from Pluto stern Proserpina's task.  
Cursed be thou Hell; for hellish Helen's sakes,  
Still crossed, and cursed be they that trust such snakes.   
Here in Argos I had the ground to be a pillow, and the world-wide-fields to be a Chamber, the whirling windy skies, to be a roof to my Winter blasted lodging, and the humid vapours of cold Nocturna, to accompany the unwished for bed of my repose. What shall I say then, the solid, and sad man is not troubled with the floods and ebbs of Fortune, the ill-imployed power of greatness, nor the fluctuary motions of the humorous multitude; or at least, if he be sensible of his own, or their irregularities, or confusions, yet his thoughts are not written in his face, his countenance is not significant, nor his miseries further seen than in his own private suffering; whereas the face and disposition of the feeble one, ever resembleth his last thoughts, and upon every touch or taste of that which is displeasant, and follows not the streams of his appetite, his countenance deformeth itself, and like the Moon, is in as many changes as his fortune, but the noble resolution must follow Aeneas advice in all his adventures.  
Per varius casus, per tot discrimina rerum,  
Tendimus in latium, etc.  
By divers ways, and dangers great we mind,  
To vi●●t Latium, and Latinus kind.  
In all this Country of Greece I could find nothing to answer the famous relations, given by ancient Authors of the excellency of that land, but the name only; the barbarousness of Turks and Time, having defaced all the Monuments of Antiquity: No show of honour, no habitation of men in an honest fashion, nor possessors of the Country in a Principality, But rather prisoners shut up in prison, or addicted slaves to cruel and tyrannical Masters: So deformed is the state of that once worthy Realm, and so miserable is the burden of that afflicted people; which, and the appearance of that permanency, grieved my heart to behold the sinister working of blind Fortune, which always plungeth the most renowned Champions, and their memory, in the profoundest pit of all extremities and oblivion.  
Let the Ghosts of that Theban Epaminondas, that Mirmidonian Philip, 
Greek Champions.  and these Epirean worthies, Pyrrhus, and Scanderberg be witnesses hereto; but especially, that Macedonian Alexander, whose fortunes ever followed him, rather than fled him, till his last dissolution; wherein I may say his Greatness rose, like to a mighty and huge Oak, being clad with the exuvialls, and Trophies of enemies, fenced with an Army of boughs, garnished with a coat of Bark, as hard as steel; despised the force and power of the winds, as being only able to dally with the leaves and not to weaken the root: But the Northern wind, that strong Champion of the airy Region, secretly lurking in the vault of some hollow Cloud, doth first murmur at the aspiring Oak, and then striketh his Crest with some great strength; and lastly with the deepest breath of his Lungs, doth blow up the root: Even so was it with Alexander, who from a stripling came to be a Cedar, and from the sorrow of no more worlds, was soon cut off from the world he was into: For destiny is no man's drudge, and death is every man's Conqueror, matching the Sceptre with the Spade, and the Crowned Prince with the praiselesse Peasant: And in a word, there was never any to whom Fortune did sooner approach, nor never any from whom she did more suddenly fly, than from Alexander, leaving him a clear mirror of the world's inconstancy.  
Now as concerning the government of Greece, termed by the Turks Rum Ili, that is, the Roman Country: It is ruled by a Beglerbeg, 
The Beglerbeg of Greece  or Bassa, this word Beglerbeg imports Lord of Lords, in regard of the Sanzacks', or Subbassaes under them, who also are termed Lords; which is a Barbarous pride in an ambitious stile: This Beglerbeg of Greece, retaineth his residence at Sophia the Metropole of Bulgaria, formerly Dacia, and is the most greatest Commander of all other Bassas in the Turkish provinces of Europe.  
All other Beglerbegs are changed every third year, or continued according to the Imperial pleasure, neither may they return from their station during this time. But this Bassa of Greece, keepeth his government for his life-time, and remaineth most at Court: He reserveth under his command, forty thousand Timariot or Horsemen, led under the conduct of twenty two Sanzacks', or Judges deputies of Jurisdictions; to wit, two in Albania, at the Towns Iscodera, and Ancolina: two in Achaia, at Delvina, and Albassan: three in Tbessalia, at Priasim, Salonica, and Trichola: two in Sparta, at Misietra and Paleopatra: three in Macedonia, at Carmona, Selistria, and Giastandila: one in Moldavia, at Acheranma: in Bulgaria, one at Sophia: in Thracia, one at Viazza: in Epire, one at Ducagina: in Aetolia, one at joanina: in Peloponesus, one at Peterasso: the rest are Vsopia, Nycopolis, Corinth, and Bandera towards the Black sea, and to the Northward of Danubio, at his kissing the Euxine Waves: Thus much for the Begelbergship of Greece, and the Provinces thereunto adjoining.  
Departing from Argos, upon the seventh day we arrived at Athens: 
Athens.  Athens is still inhabited, standing in the East part of Pelopennesus, near to the frontiers of Macedon, or Thessaly by the Sea side. It was first called Cecropia, of one Cecrops, the first King thereof, who first founded it, Anno Mundi 2409. It was after mightily enlarged by Theseus, and well provided with good laws by Solon, and lastly Athens of Minerva: In whose honour for a long time were celebrate solemn plays, called Panathanaia: Athens is now termed Salenos, and wa● once the shrill sounding Trumpet of Mars, yielding more valiant Captains and Commandars than any City in the World, Rome excepted: It was a custom here, that when any man was grown too wealthy or potent, he was banished thence for ten years: This exile was entitled Ostracism, because his name who was abandoned was written in an Oyster shell: Great combustions and mutinies have happened between Lacedaemon and Athens; at last it was sacked by Lysander, and her Virgin body prostituted to the lust of 30. insulting Tyrants: not long after whose expulsion, it was utterly subdued by the Macedonians.  
And in a word, Athens being stained with intestine bloodsheds, and grievously discontented with the death of her Children; her babes were brought forth for the sword to glut upon, the bodies of her Ancients were made as pavements to walk upon, her Matrons became a prey and prize to every Ravisher, and her Priests and Sacrificers were slain before the gates of their Temples.  
This City was the Mother and Wellspring of all Liberal Arts and Sciences, and the great Cistern of Europe, whence flowed so many Conduit pipes of learning all where, but now altogether decayed: The circuit of old Athens hath been according to the fundimentall walls yet extant about six Italian miles, but now of no great quantity, nor many dwelling houses therein; being within two hundred firehouses, having a Castle, which formerly was the Temple of Minerva. They have abundance of all things requisite for the sustenance of humane life, of which I had no small proof: for these Athenians or Greeks, exceeding kindly banqueted me four days, and furnished me with necessary provision for my voyage to Creta. And also transported me by Sea in a Brigandino freely, and on their own charges to Serigo, being 44. miles distant.  
After my redounded thanks, they having returned, the contemplation of their courtesies brought me in remembrance how curious the old Athenians were to hear of foreign news, and with what great regard and estimation they honoured travellers, of which as yet they are no ways defective.  
Serigo is an Island in the sea Cretico: 
Serigo.  It was anciently called Cytherea, of Cythero the Son of Phaenise: And of Aristotle Porphyris, or Schotera, in respect of the fine Marble that is got there: It is of circuit threescore miles, having but one Castle called Capsallo, which is kept by a Venetian Captain: here it is said that Venus did first inhabit, and I saw the ruins of her demolished Temple, on the side of a Mountain yet extant.  
A little more downward below this old adored Temple of Venus, are the Relics of that Palace, wherein Menelaus did dwell, who was King of Sparta, & Lord of this I'll. The Greeks of the I'll told me there were wild Asses there, who had a stone in their heads, which was a sovereign remedy for the Falling sickness, and good to make a woman be quickly delivered of her birth. I made afterward deeper enquiry for it, to have either seen or bought it, but for my life I could never attain to any perfect knowledge thereof.  
In the time of my abode at the Village of Capsalo (being a haven for small Barks, 
A Priest slain in a Bordello.  and situate below the Castle) the Captain of that same Fortress killed a Seminary Priest, whom he had found in the night with his whore in a Brothell-house: for the which sacrilegious murder, the Governor of the Isle deposed the Captain, and banished him, causing a Boat to be prepared to send him to Creta. O! if all the Priests which do commit Incest, Adultery, and Fornication (yea and worse, Il peccato ca●nale contra natura) were thus handled; and severely rewarded, what a sea of Sodomitical irreligious blood would overflow the half of Europe, to stain the spotted colour of that Roman beast. Truly, and yet more, these lascivious Friars are the very Epicures, or off-scouring of the earth; for how oft have I heard them say one to another? Allegre, allegre, mio caro fratello, chi ben mangia, ben beve, etc. That is, Be cheerful, be cheerful, dear brother, he that eateth well, drinketh well, he that drinketh well, sleepeth well, he that sleepeth well, sinneth not, and he that sinneth not, goeth strait through Purgatory to Paradise. This is all the care of their living, making their tongues to utter what their hearts do profanely think, Ede, bibe, dormi, post mortem nulla volupt as, and as it is well observed of this Monarchal and licentious life.  
Non male sunt Monachis, grato indita nomina patrum,  
Cum numerent natos, hic & ubique suos.  
Injustly, no! Monks be called Fathers, Why?  
Their Bastard's swarm, as thick as stars in sky.  
In the aforesaid Boat I also embarked with the Captain, and sailed by the little Isoletta of Serigota: Leaving Capo di Spada on the left hand, we arrived at Carabusa with extreme fortune, being fiercely pursued by three Turkish Galliots. Between Serigo and Carabusa we had sevenscore and twelve Miles of dangerous and cumbustious seas.   

The Third Part.  
Now Creta comes, the Mediterren Queen,  
To my sought view, where golden Ida's seen:  
Cut with the Labyrinth of th' old Minatoure,  
Thence traced I all the Syclads fifty four:  
With Nigropont and Thessaly amain,  
Macedon, Parnassus, the Achaean plain;  
Tenedos and Troy, long Phrygia fixed,  
Sestos, Abydos, Adrianopole vexed:  
Colchis, fall'n Thebes, Hellespont, and more,  
Constantinople, earth's best sovereign glore:  
The Euxine sea, and Pompey's Pillar pressed,  
In Paru then, I'll take my winter's rest.  
THE I'll of Candy, formerly called Creta, hath to the North the Aegean sea, to the West the sea jonian; to the South the Libique Sea, and to the East the Carpathian Sea: It lieth midway 'twixt Achaia in Greece, and Cyrene in Africa, not being distant from the one, nor from the other, above two days sailing: It is a most famous and ancient Kingdom: By modern writers, it is called Queen of the Isles Medeterrene: It had of old an hundred Cities, 
The antiquity of Candy.  whereof it had the name Hecatompolis, but now only four, Candia, Canea, Rethimos, and Scythia, the rest are but Villages and Bourges. It is of length, to wit, from Capo Ermico in the West, called by Pliny, Frons arietis, and Capo Salomone in the East, two hundred and forty Miles, large threescore, and of circuit six hundred and fifty miles.  
This is the chief Dominion belonging to the Venetian Reipublicke: In every one of these four Cities there is a Governor, and two Counsellors, sent from Venice every two years. The Country is divided into four parts, under the jurisdiction of the four Cities, for the better administration of Justice: and they have a General who commonly remaineth in the City of Candi (like to a Viceroy) who deposeth, or imposeth Magistrates, Captains, Soldiers, Officers, and others whatsoever, in the behalf of St. Mark, or Duke of Venice. The Venetians detain continually a strong guard, divided in Companies, Squadrons, and Garrisons, in the Cities and Fortresses of the Island: which do extend to the number of 12000. Soldiers, kept not only for the incursions of Turks, but also for fear of the Cretes or inhabitants, who would rather (if they could) render to the Turk, than to live under the subjection of Venice, thinking thereby to have more liberty, and less taxed under the Infidel, than now they are under the Christian.  
This Isle produceth the best Malvasy, Muskadine, and Leaticke wines, that are in the whole Universe. It yieldeth Oranges, Lemons, Melons, Citrons, Grenadiers, Adam's Apples, Raisins, Oilves, Dates, Honey, Sugar, Wa tri de volte, and all other kinds of fruit in abundance. But the most part of the Corns are brought yearly from Archipelago and Greece. 
The Rivers of Candy.  The chief Rivers are Cataracho, Melipotomos, Escasino; being all of them shallow, and discommodious for shipping, in respect of their short courses and rocky passages: And the principal Cities of old, were Gnassus, where Minos kept his Court, 2. Cortina, 3. Aphra and Cydonia. This Country was by Marcellus made subject to the Romans. It was afterward given by Baldwin Earl of Flanders, the first Latin Emperor of Constantinople to Boniface of Montferrat, who sold it, An. 1194. to the Venetians.  
Thus much of the I'll in general; and now in respect of my travailing two times through the bounds of the whole Kingdom, which was never before attchieved by any Traveller in Christendom; I will as briefly as I can in particular, relate a few of those miseries endured by me in this land, with the nature and quality of the people.  
This aforesaid Carabusa, 
The old and famous City of Lanarke.  is the principal Fortress of Creta, being of itself invincible, and is not unlike to the Castle of Dunbertan, which standeth at the mouth of Clyd; upon which River the ancient City of Lanarke is situated: for this Fort is environed with a Rock higher than the walls, and joineth close with Capo Ermico: having learned of the thievish way I had to Canea, I advised to put my money in exchange, which the Captain of that strength very courteously performed; and would also have dissuaded me from my purpose, but I by no persuasion of him would stay. From thence departing all alone, scarcely was I advanced twelve miles in my way, when I was beset on the skirt of a Rocky Mountain, with three Greek murdering Renegadoes, and an Italian Bandido, who laying hands on me, beat me most cruelly, robed me of all my clothes, and stripped me naked, threatening me with many grievous speeches.  
At last the respective Italian, perceiving I was a stranger, and could not speak the Cretan tongue, began to ask me in his own language where was my money? to whom I soberly answered, I had no more than he saw, which was fourscore Bagantines: which scarely amounted to two groats English: but he not giving credit to these words, searched all my clothes and Budgeto, yet found nothing, except my linen, and Letters of recommendations, I had from divers Princes of Christendom, 
A happy deliverance.  especially the Duke of Venice, whose subjects they were, if they had been lawful Subjects: which when he saw, did move him to compassion, and earnestly entreated the other three thiefs to grant me mercy, and to save my life: A long deliberation being ended, they restored back again my pilgrims clothes, and Letters, but my blue Gown and Bagantines' they kept: such also was their thievish Courtesy towards me, that for my better safeguard in the way, they gave me a stamped piece of clay, as a token to show any of their companions, if I encountered with any of them; for they were about twenty Rascals of a confederate band; that lay in this desert passage.  
Leaving them with many counterfeit thanks, I travailed that day seven and thirty Miles, and at night attained to the unhappy Village of Pickehorno: where I could have neither meat, drink, lodging, nor any refreshment to my wearied body. These desperate Candiors thronged about me, gazing (as though astonished) to ●ee me both want company, and their Language, and by their cruel looks, they seemed to be a barbarous uncivil people: For all these High-landers of Candy, are tyrannical, bloodthirsty, and deceitful. 
Cruel Candiots.  The consideration of which, and the appearance of my death, signed to me secretly by a pitiful woman, made me to shun their villainy in stealing forth from them in the dark night, & privately sought for a secure place of repose in a umbragious Cave by the Sea side, where I lay till Morning with a fearful heart, a crazed body, a thirsty stomach, and a hungry belly.  
Upon the appearing of the next Aurora, and when the welkin had put aside the vizard of the night, the Stars being covered, 
Invinsibl● Can●a.  and the earth discovered by the Sun, I embraced my unknown way, and about midday came to Canea: Canea is the second City of Crete, called anciently Cydon, being exceeding populous, well Walled, and fortified with Bulwarks: It hath a large Castle, containing ninety seven Palaces, in which the Rector and other Venetian Gentlemen dwell. There lie continually in it seven Companies of Soldiers who keep Sentinel on the Walls, guard the gates and Market places of the City: Neither in this Town nor Candia, may any Country peasant enter with weapons (especially Harquebuses) for that conceived fear they have of Treason. Truly this City may equal in strength, either Zara in Dalmetia, or Luka, or Leghorn, both in Tuscana, or matchless Palma in Friuly: for these five Cities are so strong, that in all my Travail I never saw them matched. They are all well provided with abundance of Artillery, and all necessary things for their defence, especially Luk●, which continually reserves in store provision of victuals for twelve years' siege.  
In my first abode in Canea, being a fortnight, there came 6. Galleys from Venice, upon one of which there was a young French Gentleman, a Protestant, borne near Monpeillier in Langadocke; who being by chance in company with other four of his Countrymen in Venice, one of them killed a young noble Venetien, about the quarrel of a Courtesan: Whereupon they flying to the French Ambassadors house, the rest escaped, and he only apprehended by a fall in his flight, was afterward condemned by the Senators to the Galleys enduring life. Now the Galleys lying here six days, he got leave of the Captain to come a shore with a Keeper, when he would, carrying an Irom bolt on his leg: In which time we falling in acquaintance, he complained heavily of his hard fortune, and how because he was a Protestant, (besides his slavery) he was severely abused in the Galley; sighing forth these words with tears, Lord have mercy upon me, and grant me patience, for neither friends, nor money can redeem me: 
A Religious comfort.  At which expression I was both glad and sorrowful, the one moving my soul to exult in joy for his Religion: the o●her, for his misfortunes, working a Christian condolement for intolerable affliction: For I was in Venice, at that same time when this accident fell out, yet would not tell him so much: But pondering seriously his lamentable distress, I secretly advised him the manner how he might escape, and how far I would hazard the liberty of my life for his deliverance, desiring him to come a shore early the next morning. Mean while I went to an old Greekish woman, with whom I was friendly inward, for she was my Laundress; and reciting to her the whole business, she willingly condescended to lend me an old Gown, and a black veil for his disguisement. The time came, and we met, the matter was difficult to shake off the Keeper; but such was my plot, I did invite him to the Wine, where after tractall discourses, and deep draughts of Leatick, reason failing, sleep over-came his senses. Whereupon conducting my friend to the appointed place, I disburdened him of his Irons, clothed him in a female habit, and sent him out before me, conducted by the Greekish woman: and when securely past both Guard and Gate, I followed, carrying with me his clothes, where, when accosting him by a field of Olives, and the other returned back, we speedily crossed the Vale of Suda, and interchanging his apparel, I directed him the way over the Mountains to a Greekish convent on the South side of the land, 
A place of refuge.  a place of safeguard, called commonly the Monastery of refuge; where he would kindly be entertained, till either the Galleys, or men of War of Malta arrived: It being a custom at their going, or coming from the Levant to touch here, to relieve and carry away distressed men: This is a place whereunto Bandits, men-slayers, and robbers repair for relief.  
And now many joyful thanks from him redounded, I returned, keeping the high way, where incontinent I encountered two English Soldiers, john Smith, and Thomas Hargrave, coming of purpose to inform me of an Imminent danger, showing me that all the Officers of the Galleys, with a number of Soldiers were in searching the City, and hunting all over the fields for me: after which relation, consulting with them, what way I could come to the Italian Monastery Saint Salvator, for there I say; (the vulgar Town affording neither lodging nor beds) They answered me, they would venture their lives for my liberty, and I should enter at the Eastern (the least frequented) Gate of the City, where three other English men lay that day on Guard, for so there were five of them here in Garrison: where when we came, the other English accompanied with eight French soldiers their familiars, came along with us also: And having past the Market place, and near my lodging, four officers and six Galley soldiers run to lay hold on me: whereat the English and French unsheathing their swords, valiantly resisted their fury, and deadly wounded two of the Officers: Mean while fresh supply coming from the Galleys, john Smith run along with me to the Monastery, leaving the rest at pell mel, to intercept their following: At the last the Captains of the Garrison approaching the tumult, relieved their own Soldiers, and drove back the other to the Galleys. A little thereafter the General of the Galleys came to the Monastary, and examined me concerning the fugitive, but I clearing myself so, and quenching the least suspicion he might conceive (notwithstanding of my accusers) he could lay nothing to my charge: howsoever it was, he seemed somewhat favourable; partly because I had the Duke of Venice his Passport, partly because of my intended voyage to jerusalem; partly because he was a great favourer of the French Nation: and partly because he could not mend himself, in regard of my shelter, and the Governors' favour: yet nevertheless I detained myself under safeguard of the Cloister until the Galleys were gone. 
Cloisters are safeguards.   
Being here disappointed of transportation to Archipelago, I advised to visit Candy: and in my way I passed by the large Haven of Suda, which hath no Town or Village, save only a Castle, situated on a Rock in the Sea, at the entry of the Bay: the bounds of that harbour may receive at one time above two thousand Ships and Galleys, and is the only Key of the Island: for the which place, the King of Spain hath oft offered an infinite deal of money to the Venetians, whereby his Nav● which sometimes resort in the Levant, might have access and relief; but they would never grant him his request; which policy of his was only to have surprised the Kingdom.  
South-west from this famous harbour, lieth a pleasant plain, surnamed the Valley of Suda: 
The pleasant valley of Suda.  It is twenty Italian Miles long, and two of breadth: And I remember as I descended to cross the Valley, and pass the Haven, me thought the whole planure resembled to me a green sea; and that was only by reason of infinite Olive trees grew there, whose boughs and leaves over-top all other fructiferous trees in that plain: The Villages for loss of ground are all built on the skirts of Rocks, upon the Southside of the Valley, yea and so difficult to climb them, & so dangerous to dwell in them, that me thought their lives were in like peril, as he who was adjoined to sit under the point of a twohanded sword, and it hanging by the hair of a horse tail.  
Trust me, I told along these Rocks at one time, and within my sight some 67. Villages; but when I entered the Valley, I could not find a foot of ground unmanured, save a narrow passing way wherein I was: The Olives, Pomgranets, Dates, Figs, Oranges, Lemons, and Pomi del Adamo growing all through other: And at the roots of which trees grew Wheat, Malvasy, Muscadine, Leaticke Wines, Grenadiers, Carnobiers', Melons, and all other sorts of ●ruits and Herbs the earth can yield to man; that for beauty, pleasure, and profit it may easily be surnamed the garden of the whole Universe: being the goodliest plot, the Diamond spark, and the Honey spot of all Candi: There is no land more temperate for air, for it hath a double springtide; no soil more fertile, and therefore it is called the Combat of Bacus, and Ceres; nor Region or Valley more hospitable, in regard of the Sea, having such a noble Haven cut through its bosom, being as it were the very resting place of Neptune.  
Upon the third day's journey from Canea, I came to Rethimos; this City is somewhat ruinous, and unwalled, but the Citizens have newly builded a strong Fortress, but rather done by the State of Venice, which defendeth them from the invasion of Pirates: It standeth by the sea side, and in the year 1597. it was miserably sacked, and burned with Turks. Continuing this voyage, I passed along the skirts of Mount Ida, 
Mount Ida.  accompanied with Greeks, who could speak the Italian tongue, on which, first they showed me the Cave of King Minos, but some hold it to be the Sepulchre of jupiter. That Groto was of length eighty paces, and eight large: This Minos was said to be the brother of Radamanthus, and Sarpedon; who after their succession to the Kingdom, established such aequitable Laws, that by Poets they are feigned with Aeacus to be the Judges of Hell. I saw also there, the place where jupiter (as they say) was nourished by Amalthes, which by greeks is recited, as well as Latin Poets.  
Thirdly, they showed me the Temple of Saturn, which is a work to be admired, of such Antiquity, and as yet undecayed; who (say they) was the first King that inhabited there, and Father to jupiter. And near to it, is the demolished Temple of Matelia, having this superscription above the door, yet to be seen: Make clean your feet, wash your hands and enter. Fourthly, I saw the entry into the Labyrinth of Dedalus, 
Dedal●s Labyrinth.  which I would gladly have better viewed, but because we had no Candle-light, we durst not enter: for there are many hollow places within it; so that if a man stumble, or fall, he can hardly be rescued: It is cut forth with many intricating ways, on the face of a little Hill, joining with Mount Ida, having many doors and pillars. Here it was where Theseus by the help of Ariadne the daughter of King Minos, taking a bottom of thread, and tying the one end at the first door, did enter and slay the Min●taurus, who was included there by Dedalus: This Min●taure is said to have been begot by the lewd and luxurious Pasiphae, who doted on a white Bull.  
Mount Ida is the highest Mountain in Creta, and by the computation of Shepherd's feet, amounteth to six miles of height: It is over-clad even to the top with Cypre trees, and good store of medicinable herbs: insomuch that the beasts which feed thereupon, have their teeth gilded, like to the colour of Gold: Mount Ida, of old was called Phelorita, by some Cadussa, but modernely Madura: It is said by some Historians, 
Historia● erro●t●.  that no venomous animal can live in this Isle; but I saw the contrary: for I killed on a Sunday morning hard by the Sea side, and within two miles of Rethimos, two Serpents and a Viper: one of which Serpents was above a yard and half in length, for they being all three rolling within the coverture of the dry sands, my right leg was almost in their reverence before I remarked the danger: wherefore many build upon false reports, but experience teacheth men the truth.  
Some others also Historize, that if a Woman here, by't a man any thing hard, he will never recover: and that there is an herb called Allimos in this Island, which if one chaw in his mouth, he shall not feel hunger for four and twenty hours: all which are mere fabulous, such is the darkness of cloudy inventions.  
Descending from this Mountain, I entered in a fair plain, beautified with many Villages; in one of which I found a Grecian Bishop, who kindly presented me with grapes of Malvasy, and other things, for it was in the time of their vintage. To carry these things he had given me, he caused to make ready an Ass, and a servant, who went with me to Candy, which was more than fifteen miles from his house. True it is, that the best sort of greeks, in visiting other, do not use to come empty handed, neither will they suffer a stranger to depart without both gifts and convoy.  
I remember along this sassinous and marine passage, I found three fountains gushing forth of a Rock, each one within a yard of other, having three sundry tastes: the first water was exceeding light and sweet; the middle or second marvellous sour and heavy: the third was bitter and extraordinary salt: so that inso short bounds so great difference I never found before, nor afterward.  
Candy is distant from Canea a hundred Miles, Rethimos being half way betwixt both: so is Candy half way in the same measure, 'twixt Rethimos and Scythia; and Canea the like 'twixt Rethimos and Carabusa being in all 200 Miles.  
Candy is a large and famous City, 
The City of Candy.  formerly called Matium, situated on a plain by the sea side, having a goodly Haven for ships, and a fair Arsenell wherein are 36. Galleys: It is exceeding strong, and daily guarded with 2000 Soldiers, and the walls in compass are about three Leagues.  
In this time there was no Viceroy, the former being newly dead, and the place vacant, the Soldiers kept a bloody quarter among themselves, or against any whomsoever their malignity was intended, for in all the time I stayed there, being ten days, it was nothing to see every day four or five men killed in the streets: neither could the Rector, nor the Captains help it, so tumultuous were the disordered Soldiers, and the occasions of revenge and quarrelling so influent. This commonly they practise in every such like vacation, which otherwise they durst never attempt without death, and severe punishment; and truly me thought it was as barbarous a governed place for the time, as ever I saw in the world, for hardly could I save my own life free from their dangers, in the which I was twice miserably involved.  
Candy is distant from Venice 1300 Miles, 
Distances from Candy.  from Constantinople 700, from Famagusta in Cyprus 600, from Alexandria in Egypt 500, from Tripoli in Syria 700, from Naples 900, from Malta 500, from Smyrna in Car●●nia of Anatolia 400, and from the City of jerusalem 900 Miles. The Candeots through all the Island make muster every eight day, before the Seriant-Majors, or Officers of the General, and are well provided with all sorts of Armour; yea, and the most valorous people that height the name of greeks. It was told me by the Rector of Candy, that they may raise in Arms of the Inhabitants (not reckoning the Garrisons) above sixty thousand men, all able for wars, with 54 Galleys, and 24 Galliots for the Sea.  
In all my Travels through this Realm, I never could see a Greek come forth of his house unarmed: and after such a martial manner, that on his head he weareth a bare steel Cap., a Bow in his hand, a long Sword by his side, a broad Poniard overthwart his belly, and a round Target hanging at his Girdle. They are not costly in apparel, for they wear but linen clothes, and use no sho●es, but Botes of white leather, to keep their legs in the fields from the pricks of a kind of Thistle, wherewith the Country is overcharged like unto little bushes or short shrubs which are marvellous sharp, and offensive unto the inhabitants, whereof, often a day to my great harm, I found their bloody smart: The Women generally wear linen breaches as men do, and boots after the same manner, and their linen coats no longer than the middle of their thighs; and are insatiable inclined to Venery, such is the nature of the soil and climate. The ancient Cretans were such notable liars, 
greets turned critics.  that the Heathen Poet Epimenides, yea, and the Apostle Paul in his Epistle to Titus, did term them to have been ever liars, evil beasts, and slow bellies: whence sprung these proverbes, as Cretense mendacium, & cretisandum est cum cretensibus.  
The Candiots are excellent good Archers, surpassing all the Oriental people therein, courageous and valiant upon the Sea, as in former times they were; and they are naturally inclined to singing, so that commonly after meat, Man, Wife, and Child of each family, will for the space of an hour, sing with such an harmony, as is wonderful melodious to the hearer; yea, and they cannot forgo the custom of it.  
Their Harvest is our Spring: for they manure the ground, and sow the seed in October, which is reaped in March, and April. Being frustrate of my intention at Candy, I was forced to return to Canea the same way I went: when come, I was exceeding merry with my old friends the Englishmen: 
●n English runagate.  Mean while there arrived from Tunnis in Barbary, an English Runagate named Wolson, bound for the Rhodes: where after short acquaintance with his Natives, and understanding what I was, he imparted these words, I have had my elder brother, said he, the Master (or Captain) of a Ship slain at Burnt Island in Scotland by one called Keere; and notwithstanding he was beheaded, I have long since sworn, to be revenged of my brother's death, on the first Scots-man I ever saw or met, and my design is to stob him with a knife this night, as he goeth late home to his lodging desiring their assistance: but Smith, Hargrave, and Horsf●ild refused, yet Cook and Rollands yielded. Meanwhile Smith knowing where I used sometimes to diet, found me at supper in a Sutler's, a soldier's house, where acquainting me with this plot, the Host, he, and three Italian soldiers conveyed me to my bed, passing by the arch-villain, and his confederates, where he was prepared for the mischief: which when he saw his treachery was discovered, he fled away, and was seen no more here.  
Remarking the fidelity and kindness that Smith had twice shown me, 
Smith relieved from long bonda  first from freeing me from the danger of Galley-slavery, and now in saving my life, I advised to do him a good deed in some part of acquittance, and thus it was: At his first coming to Venice, he was taken up as a Soldier for Candy: where, when transported, within a small time he found the Captain's promise and performance different, which enforced him at the beginning to borrow a little money of his Lieutenant: the five years of their abode expired, and fresh Companies come from Venice to exhibit the charge, Smith not being able to discharge his debt, was turned over to the new Captain for five years more, who paid the old Captain his money; and his time also worn out, the third Captain came, where likewise he was put in his hands serving him five years longer.  
Thus having served three Captains fifteen years, and never likely able (for a small trifle) to attain his liberty, I went to the Captain and paid his debt, obtaining also of the Rector his licence to depart; and the allowance of the State for his passage, which was Wine and Biscot-bread: Thereafter I embarked him for Venice in a Flemish ship, the Master being a Scotsman, john Allen borne in Glasgow, and dwelled at Middleborough in Zealand, his debt was only forty eight shillings sterling.  
Here I stayed in Canea twenty five days before I could get passage for the Arch Lands, being purposed for Constantinople; but gladly would not have left the Monastary of these four Friars, with whom I was lodged, if it had not been for my designs; in regard of their great cheer and deep draughts of Maluasey I received hourly, and oftentimes against my will: every night after supper, the Friars forced me to dance with them, either one gagliard or other: Their Music in the end was sound drunkenness, 
Drunken ●riers.  and their Syncopa turned to spew up all, and their bed converted to a board, or else the hard floor, for these beastly swine were nightly so full, that they had never power to go to their own Chambers, but where they fell, there they lay till the morn: The Cloister itself had two fair Courts, the least of which might have lodged any King of Europe: The Church was little, and among the four Friars, there was but one Masse-Priest, being a Greek borne, and turned to the Roman Faction: his new name was Pattarras Matecarras, Pater Libenter, or Father of free Will, indeed a right name for so sottish a fellow, for he was so free of his stomach to receive in strong liquor, that for the space of twenty days of my being there, I never saw him, nor any one of the other three truly sober. Many cdde merriments and jests have I observed of these Friars of Candi, but time will not suffer me to relate them, only remitting the rest to my private discourse, a Fig for their folly.  
I travailed on foot in this Isle more than four hundred Miles, and upon the fifty eight day after my first coming to Carabusa, I embarked in a Fisherboat that belonged to Milo, being a hundred Miles distant, which had been violently driven thither with stormy weather.  
And in our passing thither, we were in danger to be over-runne two several times, with two huge broken Seas, which twice covered the body of the close boat: yet with extreme fortune we arrived at Milo in a bay of the East corner of the Isle, being about St. Andrews day, where the poor Greeks took me up to their Village, two miles distant from this Creek, and I abode with them four days.  
Milo 
Milo.  was called by Aristotle, Melada, and by others, Mimalida, Melos: And lastly Milo, because of the fine Millstones that are got there, which are transported to Constantinople, Greece, and Anatolia. This Isle is one of the Isles Cyclades, or Sporades, but more commonly Archipelago, or the Arch-Islands, and standeth in the beginning of the Aegean Sea: The Inhabitants are greeks, but slaves to the Turk, and so are all the fifty four Isles of the Cycladeses, save only Tino, which holdeth of the Venetians.  
From Milo I came to Zephano, in a small boat, an Island of circuit about twenty Miles, and ten miles distant from Milo: The Inhabitants are poor, yet kind people: There are an infinite number of Partridges within this Isle, of a reddish colour, and bigger than ours in Britain: They are wild, and only killed by small shot; but I have seen in other Isands flocks of them feeding in the fields, and usually kept by Children: some others I have seen in the streets of Villages, without any keeper, even as our Hens do with us. I saw Fountains here, that naturally yield fine Oil, which is the greatest advantage the Islanders have.  
Zephano 
Zephano.  did once produce the Calamita, and was renowned for the fine Mines of Gold and Silver, of which now it is altogether desolate: There is also fine Sulphur here, and exceeding good Marble: from whence Lucullus was the first that transported it to Rome: There is a certain ground in this I'll, where it is said, that if any take it away, or dig deep holes, the earth of itself in a small time will surcease without any aid of man. East from Milo and Zephano, lie the Isles Policandro, and Christiana, formerly Laguso, Sicandro; and Sasurnino, anciently Calistha, famous for the birth of the Poet Calimachus.  
From thence I embarked, and arrived at Angusa in Parir: 
Parir.  This I'll is forty miles long, and six miles broad: being plentiful enough in all necessary things for the use of man: It was anciently called Demetriado, whose length lieth South-west, and North-east: and hard by the high Mountain of Camphasia, near to Angusa, on a fair Valley standeth the ancient Temple of Venus, never a whit decayed to this day: This Isle was given to the Venetians by Henry the Constantinopolitan Emperor, and brother to Baldwin Earl of Flanders: and it was seized upon by Mahomet, when Nigropont, and divers other Isles were surprised from the Venetians.  
In Angusa I stayed sixteen days, storme-sted with Northernely winds; and in all that time I never came in bed: for my lodging was in a little Chapel a mile without the Village, on hard stones; where I also had a fire, and dressed my meat. The greeks visited me oftentimes, & entreated me above all things, I should not enter within the bounds of their Sanctuary; because I was not of their Religion. But I in regard of the longsome and cold nights, was enforced every night to creep in the midst of the Sanctuary to keep myself warm, which Sanctuary was nothing but an Altar hemmed in with a partition wall about my height, dividing the little room from the body of the Chapel.  
These miserable Islanders, are a kind of silly poor people; which in their behaviour, showed the necessity they had to live, rather than any pleasure in their living. From thence I embarked on a small bark of ten Tons come from Scythia in Candy, and loaden with Oil, and about midday we arrived in the I'll of Mecano, where we but only dined; and so set forward to Zea.  
This Mecano was formerly called Delos, famous for the Temple of Apollo, being the chief I'll of the Cycladeses, the rest of the 54. encircling it: Delos signifieth apparent, because at the request of juno, when all the earth had abjured the receipt of Latona: 
Latona's received in Delos.  This Island then under the water, was by jupiter erected aloft, and fixed to receive her, wherein she was delivered of Apollo, and Diana: 
— erratica Delos, etc.  
Ovid. Unsettled Delos, floating on the main,  
Did wand'ring Laton kindly entertain;  
In spite of Juno, fattened with love's balm,  
Was brought to bed, under Minerva's palm.   
In this I'll they retain a Custom, neither permitting men to die, or children to be borne in it: but always when men fall sick, and women grow great bellied, they send them to Rhena a small Isoletta, and two miles distant.  
Zea to which we arrived from Mecano, was so called of Zeo, the son of Phoebo; and of some Tetrapoli; because of the four Cities that were there of old. Simonides the Poet, and Eristato the excellent Physician, were borne in it. The next Isle of any note we touched at, was Tino: This Island is under the Signory of Venice, and was sometimes beautified with the Temple of Neptune. By Aristotle it was called Idrusa; of Demosthenes, and Eschines, Erusea: It hath an impregnable Castle, builded on the top of a high Rock, towards the East, end or Promontore of the Isle, and ever provided with three years' provision, and a Garrison of two hundred Soldiers: So that the Turks by no means can conquer it. The Isle itself is twenty Miles in length, and a great refuge for all Christian ships and Galleys that haunt in the Levant.  
From this Isle I came to Palmosa, sometimes Pathmos, which is a Mountainous and barren Island: 
The I'll of Pathmos.  It was here that Saint john wrote the Revelation after he was banished by Domitianus the Emperor. Thence I embarked to Nicaria, and sailed by the Isle Scyro; which of old was the Signory of Licomedes, and in the habit of a woman was Achilles brought up here, because his Mother being by an Oracle premonished, that he should be killed in the Trojan War, sent him to this Island; where he was maiden-like brought up amongst the King's Daughters: who in that time begot Pyrrhus upon Deidamia, the daughter of Licomedes, and where the crafty Ulysses afterward did discover this fatal Prince to Troy. As we fetched up the sight of Nicaria, we espied two Turkish Galliots, who gave us the Chase, and pursued us strait to a Bay betwixt two Mountains where we left the loaden Boat, and fled to the Rocks, from whence we mightily annoyed with huge tumbling stones, the pursuing Turks: But in our flying, the Master was taken, and other two old men; whom they made captives and slaves: and also seized upon the Boat, and all their goods: The number of us that escaped were nine persons.  
This Isle Nicaria, was anciently called Doliche, and Ithiosa, and is somewhat barren: having no Seaport at all: It was here, the Poets feigned, that Icarus the son of Dedalus fell, when as he took flight from Creta, with his borrowed wings, of whom it hath the name; and not following directly his father Dedalus, was here drowned.  
Dum petit infirmis nimium sublimiae pennis  
Icarus, 
Ovid, de 〈◊〉:  Icariis, nomina fecit aquis.  
Whiles Icarus weak wings, too high did fly,  
He fell, and baptised the Icarian Sea.  
So many more experience may account,  
That both above their minds, and means would mount.  
Expecting certain days here, in a Village called Laphantos, for passage to Sio, at last I found a Brigandino bound thither, that was come from the fruitful Isle of Stalimene, of old Lemnos. This Isle of Stalimene is in circuit 90 miles, where in Hephestia its Metropolis, Vulcan was mightily adored, 
V●lcans birth▪  who being but a homely brat, was cast down hither by juno, whereby it was no marvel if he became crooked, and went a halting: The sovereign mineral against infections, called Teera Lamnia, or Sigillata, is digged here: The former name proceedeth from the Island: The latter is in force, because the earth being made up in little pellets, is sealed with a Turkish Signe●; and so sold, and dispersed over Christendom. Having embarked in the aforesaid Brigandine, we sailed by the Isle Samos, which is opposite to Caria, in Asia minor, where the Tyrant Polycrates lived so fortunate, as he had never any mischance all this time, till at last Orientes a Persian brought him to a miserable death: Leaving us an example, that fortune is certain in nothing but in incertainties, who like a Bee with a sharp sting, hath always some misery following a long concatenation of felicities: It is of circuit 160, and of length 40 miles: it was of old named Driusa and Melanphilo, in which Pythagor as the Philosopher and Lycaon the excellent Musicioner were born.  
Upon our left hand, and opposite to Samos lieth the Isle of Nixia, 
Nixia.  formerly Maxos; in circuit 68 miles: It was also called the Isle of Venus, and Dionysia, and was taken from the Venetians by Selim the father of Solyman: East from Nixia, lieth the Isle Amurgospolo, in circuit twenty leagues, it hath three commodious Ports named St. Anna, Calores, and Cataplino: A little from hence, and in sight of Anatolia, lieth the Isle Calamo, formerly Claros, in circuit thirty miles: and Eastward thence the little Isle of Lerno, five leagues in circuit, all inhabited with Greeks and they, the silly ignorants of Nature: Southeast from this lieth the Isle of Coos, now Lango: 
The Isle of Lango.  by the Turks called Stanccow, the Capital Town is Arango, where Hypocrates and Apelles the Painter were borne: In this Isle, there is a Wine named by the Greeks Hyppocon, that excelleth in sweetness all other Wines except the Malvasie, and it aboundeth in Cypre and Turpentine trees: There is here a part of the Isle disinhabited, in regard of a contagious Lake, that infecteth the air both Summer, and Winter. There is abundance of Aloes found here, so much esteemed by our Apothecaries; the rest of this Isle shall be touched in the own place. And near to Lango, lieth the Isle Giara, now Stopodia, it is begirded with Rocks and desertuous, unto which the Romans were wont to send in banishment such as deserved death: In general of these Isles Cyclades, because they are so near one to another, and each one in sight of another there are many Cursares and Turkish Galliots, that still afflict these Islanders; Insomuch that the Inhabitants are constrained to keep watch day and night, upon the tops of the most commodious Mountains, to discover these Pirates; which they easily discern from other vessels, both because of their Sails and Oars: And whensoever discovered according to the number of cursary Boats, 
The dang● of Turkish Pi●ats.  they make as many fires, which giveth warning to all the Ports to be on guard: And if the Sea voyagers in passing see no sign on these Isles, of fire or smoke, than they perfectly know these Laborinthing Seas, are free from pestilent Raveners.  
As we left the Isle Venico on our left hand, and entered in the gulf between Sio, and Eolida, the firm land is called Aeolida, there fell down a deadly storm at the Grecoe Levant, or at the North-east, which split our Mast, carrying sails and all overboard: whereupon every man looked (as it were) with the stamp of death in his pale visage. The tempest continuing (our Boat not being able to keep the Seas) we were constrained to seek into a creek, betwixt two Rocks, for safety of our lives; where, when we entered, there was no likelihood of relief: for we had shelfie shore, and giving ground to the Anchors, they came both home.  
The sorrowful Master seeing nothing but shipwreck, 
A fearful shipwreck.  took the Helm in hand, directing his course to rush upon the face of a low Rock, whereupon the sea most fearfully broke it. As we touched the Mariners contending who should first leap out, some fell overboard, and those that got land, were pulled back by the reciprocating waves: Neither in all this time durst I once move▪ for they had formerly sworn, if I pressed to escape, before the rest were first forth, they would throw me headlong into the sea: So being two ways in danger of death I patiently offered up my prayers to God.  
At our first encounter with the Rocks, (our foredecks, and Boats gallery being broke, and a great Lake made) the reco●●ing waves brought us back from the Shelves a great way; which the poor Master perceiving, and that there were seven men drowned, and eleven persons alive, cried with a loud voice: Be of good courage, take up oars, and row hastily; it may be, before the Bark sink, we shall 〈◊〉 to yonder Cave, which then appeared to our sight: Every man working for his own deliverance (as it pleased God) we got the same with good fortune: for no sooner were we disbarked, and I also left the last man, but the Boat immediately sunk. There was nothing saved but my Coffino, which I kept always in my arms: partly, that it might have brought my dead body to some creek, where being found, might have been by the greeks buried; and partly I held it fast also, that saying my life, 
A happy deliverance from shipwreck.  I might save it too; it was made of Reeds and would not easily sink, notwithstanding of my papers and linen I carried into it for the which safety of my things the greeks were in admiration. In this Cave, which was 30 paces long, within the mountain, we abode three days without either meat or drink, upon the fourth day at morn, the tempest ceasing, there came Fisher-boats to re●●eve us, who found the ten Greeks almost famished for lack of food; but I in that hunger-starving fear, fed upon the expectation of my doubtful relief.  
True it is, a miserable thing it is for man, to grow an example to others in matters of affliction, yet it is necessary that some men should be so: For it pleased God, having shown a sensible disposition of favour upon me, in humbling me to the very pit of extremities, taught me also by such an unexpected deliverance, both to put my confidence in his eternal goodness, and to know the frailty of my own self, and my ambition, which drove me often to such disasters.  
The dead men being found on shore, we buried them; and I learned at that instant time, there were seventeen boats cast away on the Coast of this Island, and never a man saved: in this place the Greeks set up a stone Cross in the memorial of such a woeful mischance, and mourned heavily, fasting and praying. I rejoicing and thanking God for my safety (leaving them sorrowing for their friends and goods) took journey through the Island to Sio, for so is the City called, being thirty miles distant: in my way I passed by an old Castle standing on a little hill, named Garbos, now Helias; where (as I was informed by two Greeks in my company) the Sepulchre of Homer was yet extant: for this Sio is one of the seven Isles and Towns, that contended for his birth: 
Septem urbes certant de stirpe insignis Homeri.  
These Cities seven (I undername) did strive,  
Who first brought Homer to the world alive.  
Smyrna, Rhodos, Colophon, Salamis, Chios, Argos, Athenae:   
The which I willing to see, I entreated my associates to accompany me thither; where, when we came, we descended by 16 degrees into a dark Cell; and passing that, we entered in another four squared room, in which I saw an ancient Tomb, 
Homer's Sepuleher.  whereon were engraven Greek letters, which we could not understand for their antiquity; but whether it was his Tomb or not, I do not know, but this they related, and yet very likely to have been his Sepulchre.  
This Isle of Sio is divided into two parts, to wit, Appanomera, signifying the higher, or upper parts of it: The other Catomerea, that is, the level, or lower parts of the Isle: it was first called Ethalia: it aboundeth so in Oranges and Lemons, that they fill Barrels and Pipes with the juice thereof, and carry them to Constantinople, which the Turks use at their meat, as we do the Verges. And also called Pythiosa: next Cios, Acts 20. 15. And by Methrodorus, Chio, of Chione: but at this day Sio. Not long ago it was under the Genoveses, but now governed by the Turks: it is of circuit an hundred miles, and famous for the medicinable Mastic that groweth there on Trees: I saw many pleasant Gardens in it, which yield in great plenty, Oranges, Lemons, Apples, Pears, Prunes, Figs, Olives, Apricocks, Dates, Adam's Apples, excellent Herbs, fair Flowers, sweet Honey, with store of Cypre and Mulbery-trees, and exceeding good Silk is made here.  
At last I arrived at the City of Sio, where I was lodged, and kindly used with an old man, of the Genovesen race, for the space of eight days: I found here three Monasteries of the order of Rome, one of the Jesuits, another of Saint Francis, and the third of the Dominican Friars, being all come from Genoa; and because the greatest part of the City is of that stock, and of the Papal See, these Cloisters have a braver life for good cheer, fat Wines, and delicate Lechery, than any sort of Friars can elsewhere find in the World.  
The women of the City Sio, are the most beautiful Dames, 
The fair Dames of Sio.  (or rather Angelical creatures) of all the Greeks, upon the face of the earth, and greatly given to Venery.  
If Venus' foe saw Sio's fair-faced Dames,  
His stomach cold, would burn, in lust-spread flames.  
They are for the most part exceeding proud, and sumptuous in apparel, and commonly go (even Artificers wives) in gowns of Satin and Taffeta; yea in Cloth of Silver and Gold, and are adorned with precious Stones, and Jemms, and Jewels about their necks, and hands, with Rings, Chains & Bracelets. Their Husbands are their Panders, and when they see any stranger arrive, they will presently demand of him; if he would have a Mistress: and so they make whores of their own wives, and are contented for a little gain, to wear horns: such are the base minds of ignominious Cuckolds. If a stranger be desirous to stay all night with any of them, their price is a Chicken of Gold, nine Shillings English, ou● of which this companion receiveth his supper and for his pains, a belly full of sinful content. This City of Sio 
The Fortress of Sio.  hath a large and strong Fortress, which was built by the Genoveses, and now detained by a Garrison of Turks, containing a thousand firehouses within it, some whereof are Greeks, some Genoveses, some Turks, and Moors: The City itself is unwalled, yet a populous and spacious place, spread along by the Seaside, having a goodly harbour for Galleys and Ships. The chief inhabitants there, are descended of the Genoveses, and profess the superstition of Rome: The people where of were once Lords of the Aegean Sea, maintaining a Navy of eighty Ships: In the end they became successively subject to the Roman and Greek Princes; till Andronico Paleologus, gave them and their I'll to the justinianes, a Noble Family of the Genoveses: from whom it was taken by Solyman the Magnificent on Easter day 1566, being the same year that our late gracious, and once Sovereign Lord, King james of blessed memory was borne. This Citadal or Fortress of Sio, standeth full between the Sea, and the Harbour, was invaded be 800 Florentines, sent hither by the great Duke Ferdinando, brother to Queen Mother of France, and our own Queen Mary's Uncle, Anno 1600 August 7. The manner was thus, The Genovesen seed had sold the Fort unto the Duke of Florence, whereupon he sent his Galleys and these Gallants thither: Where, when arrived in the night scaled the walls, slew the watches, and unhappily ramforced all the Cannon; and then entering the Fort put all the Turks to the sword, and among them, too many Christians: The Galleys all this time, being doubtful how it went, durst not enter the harbour, but a storm falling down, they bore up to an Isolet for ancorage in the Aeolid gulf, and three miles distant: The next morning, the Turkish Bashaw, the City, and all the Islanders were in arms: The Florentines 
The heads of 800 Florentines cut off.  being dismissed of their ●alleys, grew discouraged, and trying the Canon, which they had spoilt at their first scallet, it would not be: Mean while, the Bashaw entered in parley with them, and promised faithfully, to send them safe to the Galleys if they would render. Upon the third day they yielded, and as they issued forth along the drawbridge, and the Bashaw set in a Tent to receive them as they came in, one by one, he caused strike off all their heads: And done, there was a Pinnacle reared upon the walls of the Fort with their bare skulls which stand to this day.  
But by your leave, Ferdinando in person, the year following, was more than revenged of such a cruel and faithless proceeding: He over mastered a Turkis● town and castle, put two thousand Turks to the sword, sparing neither old nor young, and recoiling infinite richesses and spoils of the town, he brought home their heads with him to Leghorn, and set them up there for a merciless monument.  
After some certain day's attendance, ●embarked in a Carmoesal, bound for Nigropont, which was forth of my way to Constantinople; but because I would gladly have seen Macedonia, and Thessaly, I followed that determination: In our way we touched at Mytelene, 
The Isle of Mytelene.  an Island of old called Isa: next Lesbos: And lastly, Mytelene, of Milet the son of Phoebus. Pythacus, one of the seven Sages of Greece, the most valiant Antimenides, and his brother Alceus the Lyrical Poet, Theophrastus the Peripatetic Philosopher, Arion the learned Harper, and the she Poet Sappho, were born in it.  
This Isle of Lesbos or Mytelene, containeth in compass, one hundred forty six miles: the East parts are level and fruitful, the West and South parts mountainous and barren: The chief Cities are Mytelene and Methimnos: it was long under subjection of the Roman and Greek Emperors, till Calo joannes, Anno 1355, gave it in dowry with his sister to Catalusio a Nobleman of Genova, whose posterity enjoyed it till Mahomet (surnamed the Greek) did seize on it, 1462.  
These Isles Sporades, 
A comparison of Isles.  are scattered in the Aegean Sea, like as the Isles Orcadeses are in the North Seas of Scotland; but different in climate and fertility: for these South Eastern Isles in Summer are extreme hot, producing generally (Nigroponti excepted) but a few Wines, Fruits, and Corns, scarce sufficient to sustain the Islanders. But ●hese North Western Islands in Summer, are neither hot nor cold; having a most wholesome and temperate air: and do yield abundance of Corn, even more than to suffice the inhabitants; which is yearly transported to the firm land, and sold: They have also good store of cattle, and good cheap, and the best fishing that the whole Ocean yieldeth, is upon the Coasts of Orknay and Zetland.  
In all these separated parts of the Earth, which of themselves of old, made up a little Kingdom, you shall always find strong March-Ale, 
The plentifulness of Orknay and Zetland.  surpassing fine Aquavitae, abundance of Geese, Hens, Pigeons, Partridges, Moore-fowle, Mutton, Beef and Termigants, with an infinite number of Coneys, which you may kill with a Crossbow or Harquebuse, every morning forth of your Chamber window, according to your pleasure in that pastime, which I have both practised myself, and seen practised by others; for they multiply so exceedingly, that they dig even under the foundations of dwelling houses. Such is the will of God to bestow upon several places, particular blessings; whereby he demonstrateth to man the plentiful store-house of his gracious providence, so many manner of ways upon earth distributed; all glory be to his incomprehensible goodness therefore. I have seldom seen in all my travels, more toward, and tractable people (I mean their Gentlemen) and better housekeepers, then be these Orcadians, and Zetlanders: whereof in the prime of my adolescency (by two Voyages amongst these Northern Isles) I had the full proof and experience.  
And now certainly, it is a sign of little wisdom, and greater folly, for a man to answer suddenly to every light question; so it is as great a shame and stupidity in man to keep silence, when he should, and may deservingly speak; Wherefore damnifying the one, and vilifying the other, I come forth between both (Pugno pro Patria) to have a single bout with the ignorant malice of an imperious and abortive Geographer, brought up in the Schools near T●ames, and Westward Ho at Oxford; who blindling in an absurd description of the World, hath produced many errors, & manifest untruths to the world.  
And these amongst thousands more, which I justly can censure to be false; namely, he reporteth the Orcadians to be a cruel and barbarous people, and that the most part of Scotland regarded neither King nor Law: terming us also to have monstrous backs, against the execution of ●ustice: and because (saith he) they resemble us somewhat in visage and speech, the Scots are descended of the Saxons; where when the black wings of the Eagle spread in the South, they fled thither, thinking rather to enjoy penurious liberty, then rich fetters of gold: Moreover, that the scurvy Isle of Man, 
False aspersion upon Scot●land.  is so abundant in Oats, Barley, and Wheat, that it supplieth the defects of Scotland; so venomous also is the Wormwood of his brain, that he impugneth Hector Boetius, to have mentioned a rabble of Scottish Kings before Kenneth, the first Monarch of all Scotland; but were he fast rabled in a rope, I think his presumptuous and impertinent phrase were well recompensed: Yea, further he dare to write, that if the Mountains, and unaccessable Woods, had not been more true to the Scots, than their own valour, that Kingdom had long since been subdued.  
Many other introductions flow from his shallow basebranded apprehension which I purposely omit: To this his perverse malignity (without partial or particular construction) I generally answer; that for courteous penetrating lenity; industrious tractability; prompt and exquisite ingeniosity; nobly taught, vivacious, & virtuous Gentility; humane, and illustrious generosity; inviolate, and uncommixed national pedigree; Learned, Academical, and Ecclesiastic Clergy; for sincere Religion, and devout Piety; affable and benevolent Hospitality; civil and zealous orders in spirituality; so docible a people to Supreme Regality; and for true valour, courage, and magnanimity; there is no Kingdom or Nation within the compass of the whole universe, can excel, or compare with it.  
Now what a self Losungeous fellow hath this fustian companion proved, when the flat contrary of his abjured impositions, is infallibly known to be of undoubted truth? And how often hath Europe, the seat of Christendom, and Mistress of the World, had the full experience in all her distressed corners, of the valiant, faithful service, and unresistable valour of the people, of that never conquered Nation? the testimonies are evident, for my part I desist, and will not meddle to preamble through peremptory inferences, on particular Kingdoms, although I acquittingly can; Howsoever a pertinacious Buffoon dare, and falsely will do it: 
Each base fantastic brain, 
Cartain replies.  dare forge new styles,  
And alter Regions, Customs, Towns, and Isles:  
Stripped in a bravad, he can join (disjoin  
Contig●at Kingdoms) distant lands in one;  
First Broker-like, he scrap's rags, snips and bits,  
Then plays the Ruffian shifting with his wits:  
Last Serpentlike, he casts a Winter skin,  
And like a Strumpet boldly enters in;  
This charling Ape, with counterfeits and lies,  
And blandements, would feed the world's wide eyes:  
Thus like a stupid Ass, this blockhead Fool,  
Must turn a Coxcomb, studying in the School:  
Would he be wise and exercise his brains  
Go travel first, experience knowledge gains:  
Dare he to write of Kingdoms, that ne'er saw  
His father's Ox, perhaps the plough to draw;  
And scarce can tell even of the bread he eats  
How many frames it suffers, toil, and sweats;  
Nor ne'er ten miles, was travelled from his cradle  
Yet fain would sit, the fleered Pegasian saddle:  
Whiles loitering in a College, thus he dare  
Sow lies, reap shame, build Lottries in the air;  
Go doting Gull; Go, blot away thy name;  
And let thy labours perish with thy fame.   
This Isle of Mytelena, is by the Turks called Sarcum, lying without the mouth of the gulf of Smyrna, and opposite to the Western coast of Phrygia minor; where besides excellent Wine and Corns, there are two sorts of dregs made there, which the Turks use to put in their pottage: In Turkish the one is called Trachana, the other Bouhort, which the Romans anciently named Crimnon and Mazza. Whence Losing from Mytelene in the aforesaid Carmosal, we touched at Dalamede, in the Isle Androsia, 
The Isle Androsia.  the Northmost Isle of the Syclades toward Thessalia: It is indifferent copious of all things necessary for humane life, and round sixty miles: The Athenians of old (as Plutarch mentioneth) sent hither Themistocles to demand tribute; Themistocles told them, he came to inflict some great imposition upon them, being accompanied with two Goddesses; the one was (Eloquence) to persuade them, and the other (Violence) to enforce them. Whereunto the Androsians replied, that on their side, they had two Goddesses as strong; the one whereof was (Necessity) whereby they had it not; and the other (Impossibility) whereby they could not part with that they never enjoyed.  
This Aegean Sea, or Mare Aegeum, had its denomination from Aegeus the father of Theseus, who misdoubting his son's return from the Minotaur of Crect, here leapt in, and drowned himself: The greatest part of these sixty nine Kings, that Agamemnon took with him to the siege of Troy, were only Kings of these little Lands: By some they are divided into two parts, Cyclades, and Sporades; the former containing fifty four, and the latter twelve Isles; modernly they are all cognominate Archipylago, or the Arch Lands.  
Hoisting sail from Dalamede, we set over to Nigroponti, being sixty miles distant, and bearing up Eastward to double the South Cape, we strait discovered two Turkish Galliots pursuing us: Whereupon with both sails and oars, we sought into the bottom of a long creek, on the West side of the Cape, called Baio di piscatori; whither also fled nine Fisher-boats for refuge: The Galliots 
Two Turkish Galliots;  fearing to follow us in, went to anchor, at a rocky Isolet in the mouth of the Bay, and then within night were resolved to assail us. But night come, and every night of six (for there six days they expected us) we made such Bonfires, that so affrighted them (being two miles from any Village) they durst never adventure it: Yet I being a stranger was exposed by the untoward Greeks to stand Sentinel every night, on the top of a high Promontory, it being the dead time of a snowy and frosty Winter; which did invite my Muse to bewail the tossing of my toilsome life, my solitary wand'ring, and the long distance of my native soil:  

Carmina secessum scribentis, & otia quaerunt  
Me Mare, me venti, me fera jact at Hiems.   

I Wander inexile,  
As though my Pilgrimage:  
Were sweet Comedian Scenes of love  
Upon a golden Stage.  
Ah I, poor I, distressed,  
Oft changing to and fro.  
Am forced to sing sad Obsequies  
Of this my Swanlike wo.  
A vagabonding Guest,  
Transported here and there,  
Led with the mercy-wanting winds  
Of fear, grief, and despair.  
Thus ever-moving I,  
Yo restless journeys thralled,  
Obtains by Times triumphing frowns  
A calling, unrecalled:  
Was I preordained so  
Like Tholos Ghost to stand,  
Three times four hours, in twenty four  
With Musket in my hand.  
Ore-blasted with the storms  
Of Winter-beating Snow,  
And frosty pointed hailstones hard  
On me poor wretch to blow,  
No Architecture Lo  
But whirling-windy Skies.  
Or'e-syld with thundering claps of Clouds,  
Earth's centre to surprise.  
ay, I, it is my fate,  
Allots this fatal cross,  
And reckons up in Characters,  
The time of my Time's loss  
My destiny is such,  
Which doth predestine me,  
To be a mirror of mishaps,  
A map of misery.  
Extremely do I live,  
Extream● are all my joy,  
I find in deep extremities,  
Extremes, extreme annoy.  
Now all alone I watch,  
With Argoes eyes and wit.  
A cipher 'twixt the Greeks and Turks  
Upon this Rock I sit.  
A constrained Captive I,  
Amongst incompassionate Greeks,  
Bareheaded, downward bows my head,  
And liberty still seeks.  
But all my suits are vain,  
Heaven sees my woeful state:  
Which makes me say, my world's eyesight  
Is bought at too high rate.  
Would God I might but live,  
To see my native Soil:  
Thrice happy in my happy wish,  
To end this endless toil:  
Yet still when I record,  
The pleasant banks of Clide:  
Where Orchards, Castles, Towns, and Woods,  
Are planted by his side:  
And chiefly Lanarke thou,  
Thy Country's Laureate Lamp:  
In which this bruised body now  
Did first receive the stamp.  
Then do I sigh and swear,  
Till death or my return,  
Still for to wear the Willow wreath,  
In sable weed to mourn.  
Since in this dying life,  
A life in death I take,  
I'll sacrifice in spite of 〈◊〉,  
These solemn vows I make,  
To thee sweet Scotland first,  
My birth and breath I leave:  
To Heaven my soul, my heart King James,  
My Corpse to lie in grave.  
My staff to Pilgrims I,  
And Pen to Poets send;  
My haircloth robe, and half spent goods,  
To wand'ring wights Ilend.  
Let them dispose as though  
My treasure were of gold,  
Which values more in purest prize,  
Then dross ten thousand fold.  
These Trophies I erect,  
Whiles memory remains:  
An epitomised Epitaph,  
On Lithgow's restless pains:  
My will's enclosed with love,  
My love with earthly bliss:  
My bliss in substance doth consist,  
To crave no more but this.  
Thou first, is, was, and last,  
Eternal, of thy grace,  
Protect, prolong, great Britain's King,  
His son, and Royal Race.   
AMEN.  
Upon the seventh day, there came down to visit us, two Gentlemen of Venice, clothed after the Turkish manner; who under exile, were banished their Native Territories ten years for slaughter; each of them having two servants, and all of them carrying Shables, and two Guns a piece: which when I understood, they were Italians, I addressed myself to them, with a heavy complaint against the Greeks in detaining my Budgeto, and compelling me to endanger my life for their goods: whereupon they accusing the Patron, and finding him guilty of this oppression, belaboured him sound with handy-blowes, and caused him to deliver my things, carrying me with them five miles to a Town where they remained, called Rhethenos, formerly Carastia, where I was exceeding kindly entertained ten days: And most nobly (as indeed they were noble) they bestowed on me forty Chickens of Gold at my departure, for the better advancement of my Voyage, which was the first gift that ever I received in all my travels. For if the darts of death had not been more advantageous to me, then Asiaticke gifts, I had never been able to have undergone this tributary, tedious, and sumptuous peregrination: The confluence of the Divine Providence allotting me means, from the loss of my dearest consorts gave me in the deepness of sorrow, a thankful rejoicing.  
Nigroponti was formerly called Euboea, 
The Isle Nigroponti.  next Albantes: and is now surnamed the Queen of Archipelago: The Turks cognominate this Isle Egribos: The Town of Nigropont, from which the Isle taketh the name, was taken in by Mahomet the second; Anno 1451, and in this Isle is found the Amianten stone, which is said to be drawn in threads, as out of Flax, whereof they make Napkins, and other like Stuffs; and to make it white, they use to throw it in the fire, being salted: The stone also is found here, called by the Greeks Ophites, and by us Serpentine. The circuit of this Isle is three hundred forty six miles. It is separated from the firm land of Thessalia, from the which it was once rend by an Earthquake, with a narrow channel, over the which in one place there is a bridge that passeth between the Isle, and the main continent and under it runneth a marvellous swift current, or E●ripus, which ebbeth and floweth six times night and day. Within half a mile of the bridge, I saw a Marble column, standing on the top of a little Rock, whence (as the Islanders told me) Aristotle leapt in, and drowned himself, after that he could not conceive the reason, why this Channel so ebbed & flowed: using these words, 
Aristotle's death.  Quiaego non capeo te, tu capias me. This Isle bringeth forth in abundance all things requisite for humane life, and decored with many goodly Villages.  
The chief Cities are Nigropont, and Colchos: The principal rivers Cyro, and Nelos, of whom it is said, if ● sheep drink of the former, his wool becometh white, if of the latter coal black. From thence and after 2●. day's abode in this Isle, I arrived to Town in Masidonia, called Salonica, but of old Thessalonica, where I stayed five days, and was much made of by the inhabitants, being jews.  
Salonica 
Salonica▪  situate by the seaside, between the two Rivers Chabris and Ehedora: It is a pleasant, large and magnific City, full of all sorts of merchandise; and it is nathing inferior in all things (except nobility) unto Naples in Italy: It was sometimes for a while under the Signory of Venice, till Amurath the son of Mahomet, took it from this Republic. And is the principal place of Thessaly which is a Province of Macedon, together with Achaia, and Myrmedon, which are the other two Provinces of the same.  
This City of Salonica is now converted in an University for the jews; and they are absolute Signiors thereof, under the great Turk, with a large Territory of land, being without and about them: It hath been ever in their hands since Soliman took in Buda in Hungary, Anno 1516, August. 20. to whom they lent two millions of money, and for warrandice whereof, they have this Town and Province made fast to them: They speak vulgarly and Maternally here the Hebrew tongue, man, woman and child, and not else where in all the world. All their Synagogian or levitical Priests are bred here, and from hence dispersed to their several stations.  
Thessaly 
Thess●ly.  a long the sea side, lieth between Peloponnesus, and Achaia: Wherein standeth the hill Olympus, on which Hercules did institute the Olympian games, which institution was of long time the Grecian Epoch, from whence they reckoned their time.  
Macedon is now called by the Turks, Calethiros, signifying a mighty & warlike Nation: Macedonia, containing Thessaly, Achaia, and Myrmidon, lieth as a centre to them; having Achaia to the East: Thessalia to the South: Mirmidonia, bordering with Aetolia to the West: And a part of Hoemus, whence it was called Haemonia, and some of ●isia superior to the North: it was also called Amathia, from Amathus once King thereof, and then Macedonia from the King Macedo: The chief Cities are Andorista, Andesso, Sydra, Sederaspen, where the mines of gold and silver be, which every the Turk so monthly, receiving thence sometimes 18000, 24000 & 30000 Ducats. And Pellia, where Alexander the Great was born, Bajazet the first, won this Country, from the Constantinopolitans. About this City of Salonica is the most fertile and populous Country in all Greece.  
Greece of all Kingdoms in Europe, 
The 〈◊〉 of Greece  hath been most famous, and highly renowned for many noble respects: yet most subject to the vicissitude of Fortune than any other: who changing Gold for Brass, and loathing their own Princes, suffered many Tyrants to rule over them, scourging their folly with their fall, and curing a festered sore with a poisoned plaster: whence succeeded a dismal discord, which beginning when the State of Greece was at the highest, did not expire till it fell to the lowest ebb; sticking fast in the hands of a grievous desolation: which former times, if a man would retrospectively measure, he might easily find, and not without admiration, how the mighty power of the divine Majesty doth sway the moments of things, and sorteth them in peremptory manner to strange and unlooked for effects: making reason blind, policy astonished, strength feeble, valour dastardly, turning love into hatred, fear into fury, boldness into trembling, and in the circuit of one minute, making the Conqueror a conquered person.  
Greece, now termed by the Turks Rum Ili, the Roman Country, was first called Helles, next Grecia of Grecus, who was once King thereof: The greeks, of all other Gentiles, were the first converted Christians, and are wonderful devout in their professed Religion: The Priests wear the hair of their heads hanging over their shoulders: These that be the most sincere religious men; abstain always from eating of flesh or fish, contenting themselves with water, herbs, and bread: They differ much in Ceremonies, and principles of Religion from the Papists, and the computation of their Calendar is as ours.  
They have four Patriarches, 
Four Pat●archs in the Greekish Church.  who govern the affairs of their Church, and also any civil dissensions, which happen amongst them, viz. one in Constantinople, another in Antiochia, the third in Alexandria, and the fourth in jerusalem. It is not needful for me to penetrate further in the condition of their estate, because it is no part of my intent in this Treatise. In a word, they are wholly degenerate from their Ancestors in valour, virtue, and learning: Universities they have none, and civil behaviour is quite lost: formerly in derision they termed all other Nations Barbarians: A name now most fit for themselves, being the greatest dissembling liars, inconstant, and uncivil people of all other Christians in the world.  
By the way, 
False testimonies of vagabonding Greeks.  I must give the King's Kingdoms a caveat here, concerning vagabonding Greeks, and their counterfeit Testimonials: True it is, there is no such matter, as these lying Rascals report unto you, concerning their Fathers, their Wives, and Children taken Captives by the Turk: O damnable invention! How can the Turk prey upon his own Subjects, under whom, they have as great Liberiy, save only the use of Bells, as we have under our Princes? the tithe of their Male children, being absolutely abrogated by Achmet, this Amurath's Father, and the half also of their Female Dowry at Marriges: And far less for Religion, can they be banished, or deprived of their Benefices, as some false and dissembling fellows, under the Title of Bishops make you believe; There being a free Liberty of Conscience, for all kinds of Religion, through all his Dominions, as well for us free borne Frankes as for them, and much more them, the Greeks, Armenians, Syriacks, Amoronits, Copties, Georgians, or any other Oriental sort of Christians: And therefore look to it, that you be no more gulled, golding them so fast as you have done, lest for your pains, you prove greater Asses, than they do Knaves.  
In Salonica I found a Germo, bound for Tenedos, in which I embarked: As we sailed along the Thessalonian 〈◊〉, I saw the two topped hill Parnassus, which is of a wondrous height, whose tops even kiss the Clouds.  
Mons hic cervicibus petit arduus astraduobus,  
Nomine Parnassus, 
Pernass●▪  super at que cacumine montes.  
Through thickest clouds, Parnassus bends his height,  
Whose double tops, do kiss the Stars so bright.  
Here it was said the nine Muses haunted: but as for the Fountain Helicon, I leave that to be searched, and seen by the imagination of Poets; for if it had been objected to my sight, like an insatiable Drunkard, I should have drunk up the streams of Poesy, to have enlarged my dry poetical Sun scorched vein.  
The Mountain itself is somewhat steep and sterile, especially the two tops, the one whereof is dry, and sandy, signifying that Poets are always poor, and needy: The other top is barren, and rocky, resembling the ingratitude of wretched, and niggardly Patrons: the vale between the tops is pleasant, and profitable, denoting the fruitful, and delightful soil, which painful Poets, the Muses, Ploughmen, so industriously manure. A little more Eastward, as we fetched up the coast of Achaia, the Master of the Vessel showed me a ruinous Village, and Castle; where he said the admired City of Thebes 
Thebes.  had been. Whose former glory, who can truly write of! for as the earth, when she is disrobed of her budding and fructifying trees, and of her amiable verdure, which is her only grace and garment royal, is like a naked table wherein nothing is painted: even so is Thebes and her past Triumph defaced, and bereft of her lusty and young Gentlemen, as if the springtide had been taken from the year: But what shall I say to know the cause of such like things, they are so secret and mystical; being the most remote objects, to which our understanding may aspire, that we may easily be deceived, by disguised and pretended reasons; whilst we seek for the true and essential causes: for to report things that are done is easy, because the eye and the tongue may dispatch it, but to discover and unfold the causes of things, requireth brain, soul, and the best progress of Nature. And as there is no evil without excuse, nor no pretence without some colour of reason, nor wiles wanting to malicious and wrangling wits; Even so, was there occasion sought for, what from Athens, and what from Greece, whereby the peace and happiness of Thebes might be dissolved, and discord raised to the last ruins of her desolation.  
This Achaia is by some ignorant Geographers placed in the middle between Epire, 
Geographical errors.  Thessaly, and Peloponesus: where chose it is the Eastmost Province of Greece except Thrace, lying along 'twixt it and Thessaly by the Sea side, which part of the Country, some late Authors have falsely named Migdonia, which is a Province, that lieth North from Thracia, East from Macedon, and South from Misia, having no affinity with the Sea: The chief Cities in Achaia, are Neapolis, Appollonia, and Nicalidi, where the famous Philosopher Aristotle was born. Here is a huge and high Hill Athos, containing in circuit 70 miles, and as some affirm three days jonrney long, whose shadow was absurdly said to have extended to Lemnos, an Island lying near the Carpathian Sea.  
Achaia was formerly called Aylaida, but now by the Turks Levienda: Athos in Greek is called Agros aeros, to wit, a holy Mountain; the top of it is half a days journey broad, and 14 Italian miles high. There are 20 Monasteries upon it of Greekish Colieres, a laborious kind of silly Friars, and kind to strangers: The chiefest of which Cloisters, are called Victopodos, and Agios laura, being all of them strongly walled and fencible.  
Upon the third day from Salonica, we arrived in the Road of Tenedos, which is an Island in the Sea Pontus, or Propontis: It hath a City called Tenedos, built by Tenes, which is a gallant place, having a Castle, and a fair Haven for all sorts of Vessels: it produceth good store of Wines, and the best supposed to be in all the Southeast parts of Europe, or yet in Asia. The Island is not big, but exceeding fertile, lying three miles from the place where Troy stood, as Virgil reported, Aeneid. 2. 
Est in conspectu Tenedos, 
Tenedos▪  notissima famainsula,  
In sight of Troy, a stately Isle I found  
Shut up with Pontus, from the Trojan land;  
Whose beauteous bounds made me wish there to stay,  
Or that I might transport the same away;  
Else like Tritonean rude Propontick charms,  
T'embrace sweet Tenes, always in mine arms.  And again: 
Insula dives opum, Priami dum regna manebant.  
An Isle most rich, in Silks, delicious Wine,  
When Priam's Kingdom did in glory shine.  
Where Ceres now, and Bacchus' love to dwell,  
And Flora too, in Berecinthiaes' Cell.   
In Tenedos I met by accident, two French Merchants of Marseils, intending for Constantinople, who had lost their ship at Sio, when they were busy at veneral rilting, with their new elected Mistresses, and for a second remedy, were glad to come thither in a Turkish Carmoesalo. The like of this I have seen fall out with Seafaring men, Merchants, and Passengers, who buy sometimes their too much folly, with too dear a repentance. They and I resolving to view Troy, did hire a janisary to be our conductor & protector, and a Greek to be our Interpreter. Where when we landed, we saw here and there many relics of old walls, as we traveled through these famous bounds. And as we were advanced toward the East part of Troy, our Greek brought us to many Tombs, which were mighty ruinous, and pointed us particularly to the Tombs of Hector, 
The Tombs of Trojans.  Ajax, Achilles, Troilus, and many other valiant Champions, with the Tombs also of Hecuba, Cresseid, and other Trojan Dames: Well I wot, I saw infinite old Sepulchers, but for their particular names, & nomination of them, I suspend, neither could I believe my Interpreter, sith it is more than 3000 and odd years ago, that Troy was destroyed.  
Here Tombs I viewed, old Monuments of Times,  
And fiery Trophies, fixed for bloody crimes:  
For which Achilles' Ghost did sigh and say,  
Cursed be the hands, that sakelesse Trojans slay;  
But more fierce Ajax, more Ulysses Horse,  
That wrought griefs ruin; Priam's last divorce:  
And here enclosed, within these clods of dust,  
All Asia's honour, and crossed Paris lust.  
He showed us also the ruins of King Priam's palace, 
Priamus' Palace.  and where Anchises the father of Aeneas dwelled. At the North-east corner of Troy, which is in sight of the Castles of Hellespont, there is a gate yet standing, and a piece of a reasonable high wall; upon which I found three pieces of rusted money, which afterward I gave two of them to the younger brethren of the Duke of Florence, then studying in Pretolino: The other being the fairest with a large picture on the one side, I bestowed it at Aise in Provance upon a learned Scholar, Master Strachon, my Country man, than Mathematician to the Duke of Guise, who presently did propine his Lord and Prince with it.  
Where the pride of Phrygia stood, it is a most delectable plain abounding now in Corns, Fruits, and delicate Wines, and may be called the garden of Anatolia: yet not populous, 
A description of Troy.  for there are but only five scattered Villages, in all that bounds: The length of Troy hath been, as may be discerned by the fundamental walls yet extant, about twenty Italian miles, which I reckon to be ten Scottish or fifteen English miles; lying along the sea side between the three Papes of Ida, and the furthest end Eastward of the River Simois: whose breadth all the way hath not outstriped the fields above two miles: The inhabitants of these five scattered Bourges therein, are for the most part greeks, the rest are jews, and Turks.  
And lo here is mine Effigy affixed with my Turkish habit, 
The Author portraiture.  my walking staff, & my Turban upon my head, even as I traveled in the bounds of Troy, and so through all Turkey: Before my face on the right hand standeth the Eastern and sole gate of that sometimes noble City, with a piece of a high wall, as yet undecayed: And without this Port runneth the River Simois (enclosing the old Grecian Camp) down to the Marine, where it embraceth the Sea Propontis: A little below, are bunches of grapes denoting the vineyards of this fructiferous place; adjoining near to the fragments and ruins of Priam's Palace, surnamed Ilium: And next to it a ravenous Eagle, for so this part of Phrygia is full of them: So beneath my feet lie the two Tombs of Priamus & Hecuba his Queen: And under them the encircling hills of Ida, at the west South-west end of this once Regal Town; and at my left hand, the delicious and pleasant fields of Olives and Figtrees, where with the bowels of this famous soil are inter larded: And here this piece or portraiture deciphered; the continuing discourse, enlarging both mean & manner.  
Whence Princely Homer, 
Homer and Virgil upon Troy.  and that Mantuan born,  
Sad Tragicktunes, erected for Troy forlorn;  
And sad Aeneas, fled to the Africa Coast,  
Where Carthage groaned, to hear how Troy was lost:  
But more kind Dido (when this wand'ring Prince,  
Had left Numidia, stole away from thence)  
Did worse groan; who with his shearing sword,  
Herself she gored, with many weeping word.  
O dear Aeneas! dear Trojan, art thou gone?  
And then she fell, death swallowed up her moan:  
They land at Cuma, where Latinus King  
Did give Aeneas, Lavinia, with a Ring:  
Where now in Latium, that old Dardan stock  
Is extant yet, though in the Descent broke.  
On the South-west side of Troy, standeth the Hill Ida, having three heads. 
Rash judgement.  On which Paris out of a sensual delight, rejecting juno, and Pallas, judged the golden Ball to Venus, fatal in the end to the whole Country. The ruins of which are come to that Poetical Proverb: 
Nunc seges est ubi Troja fuit.  
Now corn doth grow, where once fair Troy stood,  
And soil made fat with streams of Phrygian blood.   
Leaving the fields of noble Ilium, we crossed the River of Simois, & dined at a Village named Extetash: I remember, in discharging our covenant with the janisary, who was not contented with the former condition, the French men making obstacle to pay that which I had given the wrathful janisary belaboured them both with a cudgel, till the blood sprung from their heads, and compelled them to double his wages. This is one true note to a Traveller (whereof I had the full experience afterward) that if he cannot make his own part good, he must always at the first motion content these Rascals; otherwise he will be constrained; doubtless, with strokes, to pay twice as much: for they make no account of conscience, nor ruled by the Law of compassion, neither regard they a Christian more than a Dog: but whatsoever extortion or injury they use against him, he must be French-like contented, bowing his head, and making a counterfeit show of thanks, and happy too oftentimes, if so he escape.  
Hence we arrived at the Castles, called of old Sestos, and Abydos 
Sestos and Abydos.  in a small Frigate, which are two Fortresses opposite to other: Sestos in Europe where Thracia beginneth; and Abydos in Asia where Bythinia likewise commenceth, being a short mile distant, and both of them four leagues from Troy. They stand at the beginning of Hellespont, and were also cognominate the Castles of Hero and Leander, which were erected in a commemoration of their admirable fidelity in love.  
Which curling tops, Leander cut in two,  
And through proud billows, made his passage go;  
To court his Mistress: O Hero the fair!  
Whom Hellespon to stop, was forced to dare:  
Sweet was their sight to other, short their stay,  
For still Leander, was recalled by day.  
At last stern Aegle, puffed on Neptune's pride,  
And gloomy Hellespont, their loves divide:  
He swims, and sinks, and in that glutting down,  
The angry Fates, did kind Leander drown:  
Of which when Hero heard, judge you her part,  
She smote herself, and rend in two her heart.  
But now they are commonly called the Castles of Gallipoly, yea, or rather the strength of Constantinople, between which no Ships may enter, without knowledge of the Captains, and are by them strictly and warily searched, lest the Christians should carry in Men, Munition, or Furniture of Arms, for they stand in fear of surprising the Town: And at their return they must stay three days, before they are permitted to go through, because of transporting away any Christian slaves, or if they have committed any offence in the City, the knowledge thereof may come in that time.  
At that same instant of my abode at Abydos, there were fourscore Christian Slaves, 
Christian slaves fled from Constantinople.  who having cut their Captain's throat, with the rest of the Turks, run away from Constantinople with the Galley. And passing here the second day thereafter at midnight, were discovered by the Watch of both Castles, where the Cannon never left thundering for two hours; yet they escaped with small hurt, and at last arrived in the Road of Zante; desiring landing, and succour, for th●ir victuals were done: victuals they sent them, but the Governor would not suffer them to come on Land. In end, the Sea growing somewhat boisterous, the slaves for an excuse cut their Cables, and run the Galley a shore: Upon this they were entertained in service, but the Providitor caused to burn the Galley, fearing lest the Turks should thereby forge some quarrel. The year following, an other Galley attempted the same, but the poor slaves having past the Castles, had been so wounded and killed with the great shot, and the Galley ready to sink, they were enforced to run a shore, where the next morning being apprehended, they were miserably put to death. Betwixt the Castles and Constantinople, is about forty leagues. Over this strait Xerxes did make a bridge of Boats to pass into Greece, which when a sudden tempest had shrewdly battered, he caused the Sea to be beaten with 300 stripes.  
And at that same time Xerxes passing over the Hellespont, 
The sorrow of Xerxes.  and seeing all the Sea clad with his Army, his Horses, Chariots, and Ships, the tears burst from his eyes: and being demanded the cause of his grief? answered, O, said he, I weep because within a hundred years, all this great and glorious sight, shall be dissolved to nothing; and neither man, nor beast shall be alive, nor Chariot, nor Engine of War, but shall be turned to dust; and so I sorrow to see the short mortality of Nature. Indeed it was a worthy saying, from such a Heathenish Monarch, who saw no further, than the present misery of this life.  
Here I left the two French men with a Greek Barber, and embarked for Constantinople, in a Turkish Frigate. The first place of any note I saw, within these narrow Seas, was the ancient City of Gallipolis, the second seat of Thracia, which was first builded by Cajus Caligula, and sometimes had been inhabited by the Gauls: It was the first Town in Europe, that the Turks conquered; and was taken by Solyman son to Orcanes, Anno 1438.  
North from Thracia lieth the Province of Bulgaria, commonly Volgaria, and was called so of certain people. that came from a Country, near to the River Volgo in Russia, about the year 666. It lieth between Servia, Thracia, and Danubio, and by the Ancients, it was thought to be the lower Misia (but more justly) the Region of Dacia. The chief Town is Sophia, which some hold to be that Town, which Ptolomeus named Tebisca.  
Here in Thracia lived the Tyrant Polymnestor, who treacherously murdered Polidorus a younger son of Priamus: for which fact He●uba, the young Prince's mother scratched him to death. Here also reigned the wortthy King Cotis, whom I propose as a pattern of rare temper in mastering and preventing passion: To whom when a neighbour Prince had sent him an exquisite present of accurately wrought glass; he (having dispatched the messenger with all due compliments and gratitude of Majesty) broke them all to pieces: lest by mishap, any of his Servants doing the like, might stir or move him to an intemperate choler.  
The greeks here, and generally through all Greece, bear as much reverence and respect to Mount Athos, 
Mount Athos.  as the Papists bear to Rome: All of which Religious Colliers or Friars, must toil and labour for their living, some in the Vines, some in the Cornfields, and others at home in their Monasteries, or else where abroad, are always occupied for the maintaining of their Families: they are but poorly clad, yet wonderful kind to all Viadants; so that who so have occasion to pass that Mountain, are there lodged, and furnished of all necessary provision of food, by these sequestrate or solitary livers, whose simple and harmless lives, may be termed to be the very Emblems of Piety and Devotion, knowing nothing but to serve God, and to live soberly in their carriage,  
The chiefest Cities of Thrace, are Constantinople, Abdera, where Democritus was borne, who spent his life in laughing, Sestos, Gallipoli, Trajanople, Galata, and Adrianoplis, which was taken by Bajazet, Anno 1362.  
As we sailed between Thracia and Bithynia, a learned Grecian brought up in Milan that was in my company, showed ●ee Colchis, whence jason, with the assistance of the Argonauts, and the aid of Medea's skill, did fetch the golden Fleece. This Sea Hellespont took the name of Helle daughter to Athamas King of Thebes, 
The Sea Hellispont.  who was here drowned; and of the Country Pontus, joining to the same Sea, wherein are these three Countries, Armenia minor, Colchis and Cappadocia. After we had fetched up the famous City of Chalcedon in Bethinia on our right hand: I beheld on our left hand, the prospect of that little World, the great City of Constantinople; which indeed yieldeth such an outward splendour to the amazed beholder, of goodly Churches, stately Towers, gallant Steeples, and other such things, whereof now the world make so great account, that the whole earth cannot equal it. Beholding these delectable objects, we entered in the channel of Bosphorus, which divideth Perah from Constantinople. And arriving at Tapanau, where all the munition of the great Turk lieth, I addressed myself to a Greek lodging, to refresh myself till morning.  
But (by your leave) I had a hard welcome in my landing, for bidding farewell to the Turks, who had kindly used me three days, in our passage from the Castles, the Master of the boat saying adio Christiano: 
A h●rsh arrival.  There were four French Runagates standing on the Cay; who hearing these words, fell desperately upon me blaspheming the Name of Jesus, and throwing me to the ground, beat me most cruelly: And if it had not been for my friendly Turks, who leapt out of their boat and relieved me, I had doubtless there perished. The other Infidels standing by, said to me, behold what a Saviour thou hast, when these that were Christians, now turned Mahometans, cannot abide, nor regard the Name of thy God; having left them, with many a shrewd blow, they had left me, I entered a Greek lodging, where I was kindly received, and much eased of my blows, because they caused to oint them with divers Oils, and refreshed me also with their best enttrtainment, gratis, because I had suffered so much for Christ's sake, and would receive no recompense again. The day following, I went to salute, and do my duty to the right Worshipful Sir Thomas Glover, than Lord Ambassador for our late Gracious Sovereign King james, of blessed Memory, who most generously and courteously entertained me three months in his house, to whose kindnesses I was infinitely obliged: as hereafter in my following Discourse of the fourth part of this History, shall be more particularly avouched: for certainly I never met with a more complete Gentleman in all my Travels; nor one in whom true worth did more illustrate virtue.   

The fourth Part.  
NOw sing I of Byzantium: Bosphors tides,  
'Twixt Europe, and the lesser Asia glides:  
Their Hyppodrome, adorned with triumphs past,  
And blackish Sea; the Jadileck more fast:  
The Galata, where Christian Merchants stay,  
And five Ambassadors for commerce aye:  
The Turkish custome● and their manners rude,  
And of their descent from the Scythian blood:  
Their harsh Religion, and their sense of Hell,  
And Paradise: their laws I shall you tell:  
Then last of Mahomet, their God on earth  
His end, his life, his parentage, and birth.  
COnstantinople is the Metropolitan of Thracia, so called of Constantine the Emperor, who first enlarged the same: It was called of old Byzantium, but now by the Turks Stambolda, which signifieth in their language, a large City: It was also called Ethuse, & by the Greeks Stymbolis. This City (according to ancient Authors) was first founded by the Lacedæmonians, who were conducted from Lacedaemon, by one Pansanias, about the year of the World 3294, which after their consultation with Apollo, where they should settle their abode & dwelling place, they came to Bythinia, and builded a City which was called Chalcedon. But the commodity of fishing falling out contrary to their expectation, in respect that the fishes were afraid of the white banks of the City; the Captain Pausanias left that place, and builded Byzantium in Thracia, which first was by him entitled Ligos. By Pliny, justine, and Strabo, it was surnamed Vrbs Illustrissima, because it is replete with all the blessings, earth can give to man; yea, and in the most fertile soil of Europe.  
Zonoras' reporteth that the Athenians, in an ambitious and insatiable desire of Sovereignty, won it from the Lacedæmonians: They thus being vanquished, suborned Severus the Roman Emperor, to besiege the same: But the City Byzantium being strongly fortified with walls, the Romans could not take it in, until extreme famine constrained them to yield, after three years' siege: and Severus to satisfy his cruelty, put all to the sword; that were within, and razed the walls, giving it in possession to the neighbouring Perinthians. This City thus remained in calamity, 
Byzanti●● re-edified by Constantine.  till Constantine (resigning the City of Rome, and a great part of Italy to the Popish inheritance of the Roman Bishops) re-edified the same, and translated his Imperial Seat in the East, and reduced all the Empire of Greece, to a unite tranquillity, with immortal reputation, which the Parthians and Persians had so miserably disquieted.  
But these disorders at length reform by the severe administration of Justice, for the which, and other worthy respects, the said Constantine son of Saint Helen, and Emperor of Rome (which afterward the Pope usurped) was surnamed the Great. He first in his plantation called this City new Rome; but when he beheld the flourishing, and multiplying of all things in it, and because of the commodious situation thereof, he called it Constantinopolis, after his own name. This Emperor lived there many prosperous years, in most happy estate: likewise many of his Successors did, until such time, that Mahomet the second of that name, and Emperor of the Turks; living in a discontented humour, to behold the great and glorious Dominions of Christians; especially this famous City, that so flourished in his eyes, by momentall circumstances, collected his cruel intentions, to the full height of ambition; whereby he might abolish the very name of Christianity, and also puffed up with a presumptuous desire, to enlarge his Empire, went with a marvellous power, both by Sea and Land, unto this magnificent Mansion.  
The issue whereof was such, that after divers batteries and assaults, the irreligious Infidels broke down the walls, and entered the City, which breach was about forty paces long, as by the new colour being built up again, is easily known from the old walls, where when they entered, they made a wonderful massacre of poor afflicted Christians, without sparing any of the Roman kind, either male or female. In the merciless fury of these infernal Imps, the Emperor Constantine was killed, whose head being cut off, was carried upon the point of a Lance through all the City, and Camp of the Turks, to the great disgrace and ignominy of Christianity. His Empress, Daughters, and other Ladies, after they were abused in their bodies, were put to death in a most cruel and terrible manner.  
By this overthrow of Constantinople, this Mahomet took twelve Kingdoms, and two hundred Cities from the Christians, which is a lamentable loss, of such an illustrious Empire. Thus was that Imperial City lost, in the year 1453, May 29, when it had remained under the government of Christians, 1198 years. It is now the chief abode of the great Turk Sultan Achmet, the fifteenth Grand Cham, of the line of Ottoman, who was then about twenty three years of age; whose son Osman since, and after his death, 
Four Emperors one after another distressed.  was murdered by the janissaries, being 14 years of age, after his return to Constantinople, from Podolia in Poland: And in his place, his Uncle Mustapha made Emperor, whose weakness and unworthiness being eftsoons discovered, he was displaced, and Amurath Osmans' brother made Grand Signior, who presently reigneth; and not without great fear of his janissaries and Timariot, who twice in three years have lately made insurrection against him. This Emperor Achmet, who was alive when I was there, was more given to Venery, than Martiality, which gave a greater advantage to the Persians in their defensive wars.  
Concerning the Empire, we may observe some fatal contrarieties in one and the same name: For Philip the Father of Alexander, laid the first foundation of the Macedonian Monarchy, 
Contrarieties of fortune.  and Philip the Father of Perseus ruined it. So was this Town built by a Constantine the son of Helena, a Gregory being Patriarch, and was lost by a Constantine, the son of a Helena, a Gregory being also Patriarch. The Turks have a Prophecy, that as it was won by a Mahomet, so it shall be lost by a Mahomet.  
The form, or situation of this City, is like unto a Triangle, the South part whereof, and the East part, are environed with Hellespontus, and Bosporus Thraicus; and the North part adjoining to the firm land. It is in compass about the walls, esteemed to be 18 miles: in one of these triangled points, being the Southeast part, and at the joining of Bosphore and Hellespont, standeth the Palace of the Great Turk, called Seralia and the Forest wherein he hunteth; which is two miles in length.  
The special object of Antiquity, I saw within this City, was the incomparable Church of Saint Sophia, whose ornaments and hallowed Vessels, were innumerable, in the time of justinian the Emperor, who first builded it; but now converted to a Mosque, and consecrated to Mahomet, after a diabolical manner.  
I saw also the famous Hyppodrome, 
Hyppodrome.  and the Theatre whereon the people stood, when the Emperors used to run their Horses, and make their Princely shows on solemn days, which is now altogether decayed: There is a great Column in that same place, in the which all these things memorable, that have been done in this Hyppodrome, are superficially carved.  
Upon the West corner of the City, there is a strong, Fortress, fortified with seven great Towers, and well furnished with Munition, called by Turks, jadileke: In this Prison, are Bassawes, and Subbassawes imprisoned, and also great men of Christians, if any offence be committed. Their place of Exchange is called Bezastan, wherein all sorts of commodities are to be sold; as Satins, Silks, Velvets, Cloth of Silver and Gold, and the most tightly wrought Handkerchiefs, that can be found in the world; with infinite other commodities, the relation of which would be tedious.  
I have seen men and women as usually sold here in Markets, as Horses and other beasts are with us: The most part of which are Hungarians, Transilvaniaus, Carindians, Istrians, and Dalmatian Captives, and of other places besides, which they can overcome. Whom, if no compassionable Christian will buy, or relieve; then must they either turn Turk, or be addicted to perpetual slavery. Here I remember of a charitable deed, done for a sinful end, and thus it was; A Ship of Marseilles, called the great Dolphin, 
A French Palliard.  lying here forty days at the Galata, the Master Gunner, named Monsieur Nerack, and I falling in familiar acquaintance, upon a time he told me secretly that he would gladly for Conscience and Merits sake, redeem some poor Christian slave from Turkish Captivity. To the which, I applauded his advice, and told him the next Friday following I would assist him to so worthy an action: Friday comes, and he and I went for Constantinople, where the Market of the slaves being ready we spent two hours in viewing and reviewing five hundred Males and Females. At last I pointed him to have bought an old man or woman, but his mind was contrary set, showing me that he would buy some virgin, or young widow, to save their bodies unde flowered with Infidels. The price of a virgin was too dear for him, being a hundred Ducats, and widows were far under, and at an easier rate: When we did visit and search them that we were mindful to buy, they were stripped stark naked before our eyes, where the sweetest face, the youngest age, and whitest skin was in greatest value and request: The jews sold them, for they had bought them from the Turks:: At last we fell upon a Dalmatian widow, whose pitiful looks, and sprinkling tears struck my soul almost to death for compassion: whereupon I grew earnest for her relief, and he yielding to my advice, she is bought and delivered unto him, the man being 60 years of age, and her price 36 Ducats. We leave the Market and came over again to Galata, where he and I took a Chamber for her, and leaving them there, the next morning I returned early, suspecting greatly the dissembling devotion of the Gunner to be nought but luxurious lust, and so it proved: I knocked at the Chamber door, that he had newly locked, and taken the key with him to the ship, for he had tarried with her all that night; and she answering me with tears, told me all the manner of his usage, wishing herself to be again in her former captivity: whereupon I went a shipboard to him, and in my grief I swore, that if he abused her any more after that manner, and not returned to her distress, her Christian liberty; I would first make it known to his Master the Captain of the Ship, and then to the French Ambassador: for he was mindful also, 
The Dalmatian Widow relieved.  his lust being satisfied to have sold her over again to some other: At which threatening the old Pallyard became so fearful, that he entered in a reasonable condition with me, and the Ship departing thence six days there after, he freely resigned to me her life, her liberty and freedom: which being done, and he gone, under my hand before divers greeks, I subscribed her liberty, and hired her in the same Tavern for a year, taking nothing from her, for as little had she to give me, except many blessings and thankful prayers: This French Gunner was a Papist and hear you may behold the dregs of his devotion, and what seven nights lechery cost him, you may cast up the reckoning of 36 Ducats.  
In Constantinople there have happened many fearful fires, which often have consumed to ashes the most part of the rarest Monuments there, and the beauty of infinite Palaces; as Zonoras' the Constantinopolitan Historiographer in his Histories mentioneth. And now lately in the year 1607. October 14. there were burned above 3000. houses, of which I saw a number of ruins (as yet) unrepaired. It is subject also to divers Earthquakes, which have often subverted the Towers, 
Pestilence and Earthquakes.  Houses, Churches, and Walls of the City to the ground. Especially in the year 1509 in the reign of Bajazeth, the ninth Emperor of the Turks, in which time, more than 13000. persons were all smothered and dead, and laid up in heaps unburied. And commonly every third year, the pestilence is exceeding great in that City, and after such an odious manner; that those who are infected (before they die) have the half of their one side rot, and fall away: so that you may easily discern the whole entrails of their bowels. It is not licentiated here, nor else where in all Turkey, that any Christian should enter in their Moskies', or Churches, without the conduct of a janisary the trial whereof I had when I viewed that glorious and great Church of Sancta Sophia, once the beauty and ornament of all Europe; and is now the chief place, to which the Great Turk or Emperor goeth every Friday, their Sabbath day, to do his devotion, being accompanied with 3000 janissaries, besides Pashas, Chawses and Hagars'. Truly I may say of Constantinople, as I said once of the World, in the Lamentado of my second Pilgrimage; 
A painted Whore, the mask of deadly sin,  
Sweet, fair without, and stinking foul within.   
For indeed outwardly it hath the fairest show, and inwardly in the streets being narrow, and most part covered, the filthiest and deformed buildings in the world; the reason of its beauty, is, because being situate on moderate prospective heights, the universal tectures, a far off, yield a delectable show, the covertures being erected like the back of a Coach after the Italian fashion with gutterd tile. But being entered within, there is nothing but a stinking deformity, and a loathsome contrived place; without either internal domestic furniture, or external decorements of Fabrics palatiatly extended. Notwithstanding that for its situation, the delicious wines and fruits, the temperate climate, the fertile circumjacent fields, and for the Sea Hellespont, and pleasant Asia on the other side: it may truly be called the Paradise of the earth.  
Perah is over against Constantinople, called of old, Cornubizantii; but by the Turks, Galata, being both a quarter of a mile distant, and the Thraick Bosphore dividing the two. It is the place at which Christian Ships touch, and where the Ambassadors of Christendom lie. 
The Christian Ambassadors at Pe●ab.  The number of the Christian Ambassadors that then lay there, and now do, were these, first the Roman Emperors, than the French, thirdly, the English, fourthly, the Venetian, and lastly, the Holland Ambassadors, with whom often for discourses I was familiar, although with Noble Sir Thomas Glover I was still domestic for twelve weeks, whose Secretary for that time was my Countryman, Mr. james Rollock, who now, as I take it, is resident in Striveling, he was the last Scotsman I saw till my return to Malta, after my departure from Constantinople.  
From thence I went to the black Sea: but commonly Mare Euxinum, 
Pompey's Pillar.  where I saw Pompey's Pillar of Marble, standing near the shore, upon a rocky Island: and not far from thence, is a Lantern higher than any Steeple, whereon there is a pan full of liquor, that burneth every night to give warning unto ships how near they come the shore; It is not much unlike these Lanterns of Leghorn and Genua. The water of this Sea is never a whit blacker than other Seas: but it is called black, in respect of the dangerous events in dark and tempestuous nights, which happen there; and because of the Rocks and Sands which lie a great way from the main shore upon which many vessels many times are cast away. The black Sea is not far from Galata, for I both went and returned in one day, being forty miles out, and in: For I went by boat, and not by land, through the pleasant Euripus, that runneth between the Euxine Sea and Hellespont: And by the way, I cannot but regrate the great loss Sir Thomas Glover received by the Duke of Moldavia, who chargeably entertained him two years in his house, and furnished him with great moneys, and other necessaries fit for his eminency: This Duke or Prince of Bugdonia was derpaved of his Principalities by Achmet, and fled hither to the Christian Ambassadors for relief: To whom when all the rest had refused acceptance, only Noble Sir Thomas received him, maintaining him, and seriously wrought with the Grand Signior and his Counsel, to have had him restored again to his Lands, but could not prevail.  
In the end, Sir Thomas Glover's five years time of Ambassadry being expired, and the Duke hearing privately that Sir Paul Pinder was to come in his place, as indeed he came too soon: this Moldavian Prince, stole early away in the morning over to Constantinople; and long ere midday turned Turk, 
The Duke of Moldavia turned Turk.  and was circumcised, contenting himself only for all his great Dukedom with a Palace and a yearly pension of twelve thousand Chickens of Gold during his life. Which, when we heard, the Ambassador, and we were all amazed and discontented: He was indebted to the Ambassador above 15 thousand Chickens of Gold, yet ere my leaving Galata, I went twice over with Sir Thomas, and saw him and found him attended with a number of Turks, who when he saw me, took me kindly by the hand, for we had been two months familiar in the Ambassadors house before.  
The English Ambassador within half a year, recovered the half of his moneys, the other half he was forced to forgo for divers importunate respects. Nay, I must say one thing more of this Knight, he relieved more slaves from the Galleys, paid their ransoms, and sent them home freely to their Christian stations, and kept a better house, than any Ambassador did, that ever lay at Constantinople, or ever shall to the world's end  
His mother was a Polonian, who coming from Danzig to London, was delivered of him upon the Sea: Afterward he was brought up at Constantinople from a boy, and spoke, and wrote the Slavonian Tongue perfectly: And thence returning for London, he was the first Ambassador King james, of blessed Memory, sent ●o Constantinople, after his coming to the Crown of England: And thus much for this worthy and ever renowned Knight, whose praise and fame I cannot too much celebrate.  
The Turks have no Bells in their Churches, neither the use of a clock, nor numbering of hours, but they have high round Steeples, for they contrafact, and contradict all the forms of Christians: when they go to pray, they are all called together by the voice of crying men, who go upon the bartizing of their Steeples, shouting and crying with a shrill voice: Lailla, Eillalla, Mahomet Rezul allah, that is: God is a great God, and Mahomet is his Prophet, or otherwise there is but one God.  
In Constantinople, and all other places of Turkey, I ever saw three Sabbaths together, in one Week: The Friday for the Turks, the Saturday for jews, and the Sunday for Christians: but the Turks Sabbath is worst kept of all: for they will not spare to do any labour on their Holy Day. 
Times of Turkish prayers.  They have meetings at their public Prayers, every day five s●verall times: the first is, before the rising of the Sun: The second is, a little before midday: The third is, at three of the clock in the afternoon: The fourth is, at the Sunsetting, Summer and Winter: Fifthly, the last hour of Prayer, is always two or three hours within night. Many of them will watch till that time, and not sleep; and others sleeping, will awake at the voice of the Crier, and go to Church.  
In sign of reverence, and in a superstitious devotion before they go into their Mosques, they wash themselves in a Lavotoio, beginning at the privy members, next their mouths, faces, feet and hands: And entering, they incline their heads downwards to the earth; and falling on their knees, do kiss the ground three times. Then the Talasumany, which is the chief Priest, mounteth upon a high stone▪ where he maketh many Orations to Mahomet: and the rest to assist him, continue a long time shaking their heads, as though they were out of all their natural understanding, repeating oft this word Haylamo, Haylamo; and after that will sigh grievously, saying, Houpek. And sometimes will abruptly sing the Psalms of David in the Arabic tongue, but to no sense, nor verity of the Scriptures. And at their devotion, they will not tolerate any women in their company, lest they should withdraw their minds and affections from their present zeal: But the men observe their turns and times, and the women theirs, going always when they go, either of them alone to their devotion: The like custom, but not after the same manner have I seen observed among the Protestants in Transilvania, Hungaria, Moravia, Bohemia, and Silesia; who when they come to Church on the Sabbath day, there is a Taffeta Curtain drawn from the pulpit to the Church wall over against it: The men sitting on the right hand of the preacher, the women on the left; whose eyes and faces cannot see other during Divine Service, save only the Minister that overtoppeth both sides; and truly me thought it was a very modest, and necessary observation. The Turks are generally circumcised after the manner of the jews, 
The Turks are circumcised.  but not after eight days, but after eight years. The Churchmen are called Hadach Casseis, or Dervishes, who wear on their heads green Sashes, to make distinction between them and others: for they are accounted to be of Mahomet's Kindred.  
They hold all mad men in great reverence, as Prophets or Saints, and if they intent any far journey, private purposes, or otherwise, before they go to battle, they come to crave counsel of these Santones, to know if they shall prosper, or not, in their attempts. And whatsoever answer these Bedlam prophets give, it is holden to be so credible, as if an Oracle had spoken it. The Turkish priests are for the most part Moors, whom they account to be a base people in respect of themselves, calling them Totseks: Their principal Church Governor is called Mufti, Whose definitive sentence in Law or Religion is penetrable, and absolutely valiant: Neither abaseth he himself to sit in the Divano, nor affordeth more reverence to the Emperor, than he to him. The other sort of Churchmen are the Naipi or young Doctors, the Caddi, 
The Turkish Churchmen.  whereof there is two or three in every City to judge the offences; the Calsi or Readers, and the Mudressi, which use to oversee the Caddeiss in their Office: They were all formerly Idolatrous Pagans, and were fast initiated in Mahometanisme, when they got the Sovereignty of the Persian Sceptre; by the great Battle, and fortunate conduct of Tangrolipix, in overthrowing Mahomet a Saracenicall Sultan of Persia; who enthronized himself, in the Persian Chair of Estate, Anno 1030. This prerogative Title of Mufti, was first entitled Caliph, whose residence was in Babylon, and wholly supreme over the Mahometans: But the Egyptians after the death of Mot adi Bila, withdrew themselves from this Babylonian obedience, and choosed one of their own, to whom the Moors of Barbary submitted themselves.  
But now since Bagdat, or Babylon hath been recovered by the Persians, 
Babylon recovered by the Persians.  about four years ago, their Mahometanicall Mufti or Caliph, that then was resident there, is now retired to Constantinople, where he sitteth in a more securer place, thinking rather to follow the Grandeur of the Turk, than the broken Estate of the Persian, whence I may truly say, he is Fortune's Page, that favoureth them most, who have most favourers.  
This unwealdy body having two heads, began to decline; for Allan a Tartarian Captain, starved Mustatzem the last divided Babylonian Caliph to death and rooted ●ut all his posterity: And then Sarancon the first Turkish King in Egypt, brained the last Egyptian Caliph with his Mace, leaving none of the Issue, or Kindred surviving. The Office of the Caliph is now executed in Turkey under the name Mufti, or high Priest. All Turks do detest the colour of black, and think those that wear it, shall never enter into Paradise: But the colour of greatest request among them is green; wherewith if any Christian be apparelled, he shall be sure of Bastinadoes, and other punishments: Neither may he use the name of their Prophet Mahomet in his mouth, (under the pain of a cruel censure to be inflicted upon him) whom they so much adore, and honour.  
This Mahomet was borne, Anno Dom. 591. in Itraripia, 
Mahomet● birth.  a beggarly Village in Arabia, whose father whs Abdillas, an Ismaelite; and his mother Cadiges, a jew; both different in Religion, and also of divers Countries: In his youth he was partly taught the judaical Law, and partly the superstition of the Gentiles. Many allege his parentage was never known (being so base) until his riper years bewrayed the same: I also learned that his Parents died whilst he was a young child, and was turned over to his Uncle, who afterward sold him to one Abdeminoples, a Merchant in Palestina: And he, after a little time, having remarked his ready and prompt wit, sent him down to Egypt, to be a Factor in his Merchandise, where, by his dissimulate behaviour, he crept in favour with Christians, jews, and Gentiles. He was in proportion of mean stature, lively faced, big-headed, eloquent in language, of a sanguinicall complexion, and a courageous stomach, in all attempts exceeding desperate: he was also deceitful, variant and fraudulent, as may appear in his Satanical Fables, expressed in his Alcoran, where oft one saying contradicteth another, both in words, and effect.  
About this time there was one Sergius, an Italian born, binished from Constantinopole, because he allowed of the Arrian sect; who afterward came to Palestina, and frequenting the house of Abdeminoples, fell in acquaintance with the young man Mahomet; and this Friar perceiving the aspiring quickness of his brain, bore a great affection to his natural perfections. Shortly after this, his Master dying without heirs, and his Mistress enjoying many rich possessions; she, for these his extraordinary qualities, from the degree of a Servant, advanced him to be her own Husband.  
That unhappy match was no sooner done but she repented it with tears: for he being subject to the falling sickness, would often fall flat on the ground before her, staring, gaping, and foaming at the mouth; so that his company became loathsome and detestable. 
Mahomet possessed with the falling ●cknesse.  The which begot contempt in his bedfellow; being to him manifested, he strove (under the shadow of invented lies) to mitigate the fury of her hateful disdain; feigning, and attesting, that when he fell to the ground, it was the great God spoke with him, before whose face (saith he) I am not able to stand▪ such is the soliciting of me, with words of terror and Majesty, to reform the ways of the degenerate people with fire and sword; sith Moses and Christ (notwithstanding of their miracles) have been rejected by the world. The old Trot, believing all these flattering speeches, was not only appeased of her former conceit, but also loving him more than a husband, reverenced him for a divine Prophet; imparting, the same unto her neighbours and gossips. After they had lived two years together, the bewitched Matron dying, left all her possessions to Mahomet; both because she accounted him to be a Prophet, and next for that loving regard she had of his tender body, being but 30 years of age. He being thus left with great riches, was puffed up in pride and haughty desires, striving by all inordinary means, to bring his new devised plots to perfection. For the better performance whereof, he consulted with this Sergius a Nestorian Monk, and Atodala another Thalmudist, a diverted jew: hereupon these two hellhounds, & the other perverst Runagate, patchedup a most monstrous, and devilish Religion to themselves, and to their miscreant believers; partly composed of the judaical law, partly of arianism, partly intermixed with some points of Christianity; and partly of other fantastical, fopperies, which his own invention suggested unto him.  
The Book of this Religion is named the Alcoran, the whole body of which, is but an exposition, and gloss on the eight commandments he affixed; whereupon dependeth the whole Mahomet anicall Law: First, 
The Law of Mahomet.  every one ought to believe that God is a great God, and only God, and Mahomet is his Prophet. Secondly, every man must marry to increase the Sectaries of Mahomet: Thirdly, every one must give of his his wealth to the poor: Fourthly, every one must make his prayers seven times a day: Fiftly, every one must keep a Lent, one month in the year, this Lent is called Byrham, or Ramazan: Sixtly, Be obedient to thy Parents; which Law is so neglected, that never any children were, or are more unnatural than the Turkish be: Seventhly, thou shalt not kill, which they inviolable keep amongst themselves; but the poor Christians feel the smart thereof. Last and eightly Do unto others, as thou wouldst be done unto thyself, the performers of which have large Sophistical promises ascribed them.  
This new coined doctrine, was no sooner wrapped up in his execrable Alooran, but he began to spit forth his abominable and blasphenious heresies: Affirming, that Christ was not the son of the most high, nor that Messias looked for; denying also the Trinity, with many other profane blasphemies. The work concluded, for the better advancement of his purpose, he married the daughter of the chief Prince of his own tribe: By which new affinity, he not only seduced his Father in law, but also the whole lineage of that family; by whose acceptance, and conversion, he also consederated with other associates, and waxed daily stronger. Contending continually to divulgate his name, aye more and more, he assembled his new Alcoranist: exhorting them to assist him in the besieging of Mecha, which Citizens had in derision rebuked his law, and absolutely disdained his mahometical illusions: and promised to them, in such a well deserving attempt, both eternal felicity and the spoils of these his contradictors; perswasively assuring them, that God would deliver all the gainsayers of his Alcoran into his hands. By which allurements they being moved, rose to the number of 3000 in Arms, and menaced Mecha, but the Citizens put him to flight, and so was he thrice served; till in the end he won their City: 
Mahomet's Tomb.  wherein after his death he was entombed in an Iron Coffin: Which between two Adamants hangeth to this day (as I have been informed of sundry Turks, who saw it) which confirmed in them a solid belief of his erroneous doctrine.  
But now of late the Turks growing more circumspect than they were, and understanding the derision of Christians concerning their hanging Tomb, and because the Turkish Pilgrims were often suffocated to death with a fabulous desert in going to Mecha; they have transported Mahomet's Tomb now to Medina; which is a great deal nearer to Damascus, and at the entry of Arabia foelix; in a glorious Mosque where the Tomb being close ground set, and richly covered with a golden Canopy; they have inhibited that any Christian shall come near to it by two courses, to wi●, twenty four miles, under the pain of death: which indeed they keep more strictly in execution, then Princely Proclamations are obeyed, observed, or regarded with us: either for Regal Statutes, or general benefits of Commonwealth: their continuance being but like the miracle of nine day's wonder; return again from whence they came frustrate of power, and robbed of obedience. From this time that he vanquished Mecha, casting out the Greek Officers, (for then all Arabia was under the Constantinoplitan Empire) the Saracens began their computation of years (as we from Christ's Nativity) which they call Hegira, and begun about the year of our Redemption, 617. Concerning which time, that Mahomet compiled his devilish Alcoran, beginning his Empire; nigh about the sametime it is observed that Boniface the third begun his Empire, and Antichristian Title, for Phocas having killed the Emperor Mauritius, his wife and children: To secure himself of Italy, ready to revolt from such a Tyrant, made Boniface universal Bishop and Head of the Church.  
This Boniface was the threescore and fourth Bishop, and first Pope of Rome: 
The first title of Popes.  which was immediately thereafter confirmed by Pippin the French King, who also had murdered his Master and Prince; and lastly, was ratified by Paleologus, whose some Constantine about 14 years thereafter, had his head st●uck off, his Wife and Daughters put to cruel death, his Empire quite subverted, in the loss of twelve Kingdoms, and 200 Cities being the just judgements of God upon the some, for the father's sake, who assigned such an ambitious charge unto that perverst papality: After which predominant Titles and falsified power, what long controversies and disputes were between the Pope and the Counsels of Carthage, Chalcedon, Ephesus, Alexandria, and Nice. This Papal prerogative begun with blood, and murder, continueth in blood, and massacres, and (doubtless) in the end shall perish, and be confounded with blood, and abominable destruction.  
And what great debate was of old by the Roman Emperors, in abolishing out of their Churches, the Images and Idols of Stone, Iron, and Timber, etc. that for ma, nigh hundred years they were not suffered to be seen? And at the beginning of the Papality, 
Romish Idolatry.  and a long time after, the Emperors prohibit them, and divers Popes have confirmed, and approved the same: Yet succeeding Popes, and the Empire being divided in East and West, introducted again the dregs of their old Heathenish and Roman Idolatry: and yet they will not be content with the bare name of Images, but they impose a surname or epithet of sanctity, termimg them holy Images▪ Truly I may say, if it were not for these Images, and superstitious Idolatries, they assign to them, the Turks had long ago been converted to the Christian Faith.  
I have seen sometimes 2000 Turks travelling to Mecha, in Pilgrimage; which is in Arabia foelix: where many in a superstitious devotion, having seen the Tomb of Mahomet, 
Turkish Pilgrims.  are never desirous to see the vanities of the World again: For in a frantic piety they cause a Smith to pull forth their eyes: And these men are called afterward Hoggeiss, that is Holymen, whom the Turks much honour, and regard: and are always led about from Town to Town by men's hands, and fed, and regarded like unto Princes; or like the Capuchins that scourge themselves on good Friday, met, and homaged at every passing street, with prayers, gifts, and adorations.  
Some write, that Mahomet in his youth was a Soldier, under the conduct of Heraclins, who employing cert●ine Arabians in an expedition to Persla, not only denied them their wages, but told them, that, that was not to be given for Dogs, which was provided for the Roman Soldiers. Hence some mutinies arising in the Army, he, with certain Arabians, his Country men, by faction, separated themselves, and revolted: Whereupon Mahomet, encouraging them in their defection, was chosen their Captain; and so for a certain time they continued rebellious Runagates, Thiefs, and Robbers of all people. 
Mahomet hath broke his promise.  The subtlety of this dissembler was admirable, who knowing that he was destitute of heavenly gifts, to work miracles, feigned, that God sent him with the sword: He also promised, at the end of a thousand years to return and bring them to Paradise; but he hath falsified his promise, for the time is expired forty yares ago. And they imagining, that he is either diseased, or become lame in his journey, have ascribed to him another thousand years to come. But long may their wicked and faithless generation gape, before he come, until such time, that in a general convocation, they be partakers of his endless damnation in Hell; unless it please the Lord in his mercy to convert them before that time.  
Mahomet chiefly prohibiteth in his Alcoran, the eating of Swine's flesh, and drinking of Wine, which indeed the best sort do, but the base kind are daily drunkards▪ Their common drink is Sherpet, composed of water, Honey, and Sugar, which is exceeding delectable in the taste: And the usual courtesy, they bestow on their friends, who visit them, is a Cup of Coffa made of a kind of seed called Coava, and of a blackish colour; which they drink so hot as possible they can, and it is good to expel the crudity of raw meats, and herbs, so much by them frequented. And that those cannot attain to this liquor, must be contented with the cooling streams of water.  
It is incident to Turks, which have not the generosity of mind, 
Oppression of Turks.  to temper felicity, to be glutted with the superfluous fruits of doubtful prosperity. Neither have they a patient resolution to withstand adversity, nor hope to expect the better alteration of time. But by an infused malice in their wicked spirits, when they are any way calamited, will with importunate compulsion, cause the poor slavish subjected Christians, surrender all they have, the half, or so forth, sometimes with strokes, menacings, and sometimes death itself; which plainly doth demonstrate their excessive cruelty, and the poor Christians inevitable misery. And yea being complained upon, they are severely punished, or else put to death, for committing of such unallowed Riots, being expressly against the Imperial Law of the Turk, concerning the quietness and liberty of the Christians.  
I have often heard Turk's brawl one with another, most vilely but I never saw or heard that they either in private or public quarrels, durst strike one another, neither dare they for fear of severe punishment imposed to such quarrellers: But they will injure and strike Christians, who dare not say it is a miss, or strike again. It is a common thing with them, to kill their servants for a very small offence, and when they have done, throw them like Dogs in a Ditch. And oftentimes (if not so) will lay them down on their backs, hoisting up their heels, bind their feet together, and fasten them to a post, and with a cudgel give them three or four hundred blows on the soles of their feet: whereupon peradventure, some ever go lame after. Their servants are bought and sold, like bruit beasts in Markets; neither can these miserable drudges ever recover liberty, except they buy themselves free, either by one means or other. Their wives are not far from the like servitude, for the men by the Alcoran, are admitted to marry as many women as they will, or their ability can keep. And if it shall happen, that any one of these women (I mean either Wife or Concubine) proftituteth herself to an other man besides her Husband; then may he by authority, bind her hands and feet, hang a stone about her neck, and cast her into a River, which by them is usually done in the night.  
But when these Infidels please to abuse poor Christian women against their Husband's will, they little regard the transgression of the Christian Law; who as well deflower their Daughters, as their Wives; yet the devout Mahometans never meddle with them, accounting themselves damned to copulate (as they think) with the offspring of Dogs. The Turks generally, when they commit any copulation with Christians, or their own sex, they wash themselves in a South running Fountain, before the Sun rising, thinking thereby to wash away their sins.  
If a Turk should happen to kill another Turk, 
The Turks justice..  his punishment is thus; after he is adjudged to death, he is brought forth to the Market place, and a block being brought hither of four foot high; the malefactor is stripped naked; and then laid thereupon with his belly downward, they draw in his middle together so small with running cords, that they strike his body a two with one blow: his hinder parts they cast to be eaten by hungry Dogs kept for the same purpose; and the forequarters and head they throw into a grievous fire, made there for the same end: and this is the punishment for manslaughter.  
But for murder or treason he is more cruelly used, for being convicted and condemned, he is brought forth before the people, where in the street there is an exceeding high Stripad erected, much like to a Maypole: which tree from the root, till it almost come to the top, it all set about full of long sharp iron pikes, and their points upward: the villain being stripped naked, and his hands bound backward, they bind a strong rope about his shoulders and cleaving: And then hoisting him up to the pillow or top of the tree, they let the rope flee loose, whence down he falls, with a rattle, among the iron pikes, hanging either by the buttocks, by the breasts, by the sides, or shoulders; and there sticking fast in the air, he hangeth till his very bones rot and fall down, and his body be devoured being quick, with ravenous Eagles, kept to prey upon his carcase for the same purpose.  
But now I come to their Nuptial Rites, their custom and manner of Marriage is thus: 
Turkish Marriages.  If a man affecteth a young maid, he buyeth her of her parents, and giveth a good sum of money for her, and after she is bought, he enrolls her name in the Cadies' Book, witnessing she is his bond wife, bought of her father, Lo, this is all the form of their Marriage: This being done, the father of the woman sendeth householdstuff home with the Bride; which is carried through the streets on Mulets or Camels backs, the two new married folks marching before, are conveyed with music, their own acquaintance and friends unto his house.  
The Turks in general, whensoever they loath or dislike their wives, use to sell them in Markets, or otherwise bestow them on their men-slaves: And although their affection were never so great towards them, yet they never eat together, for commonly the women stand, and serve their Husbands at meat, and after that, that eat a part by themselves, secretly; without admission of any mankind in their company, if they be above fourteen years of age. They go seldom abroad, unless it be each Thursday at night, when they go to the Graves to mourn for the dead, always covering their faces, very modestly with white or black Masks, which are never uncevered, till they return to their Houses. Many other Ceremonies they have, which would be too prolix for me to recite. And notwithstanding of all this external gravity, amongst these hirelings, yet there are in Constantinople above 40000 Brothelhouses, Turqueski as Libertines; in any of which, if a Christian (especially Francs) be apprehended, he must either turn Turk, or Slave all his life: But the women by policy apply a counterpoison to this severity, for they accustomably come to the Chambers of their Benefactors and well-willers, or other places appointed secretly, where so they learn either a French Syncopa, or an Italian Bergamasko.  
As for the great Turk's Concubines, they are of number eight hundred, 
The Emperor's Concubines.  being the most part Emeeres, Pashas, and Timariot daughters: The third and inmost part of the Seraglios is allotted for their Residence, being well attended at all times with numbers of Ennuches, and other gelded officers: Every morning they are ranked in a great Hall, and set on high and open seats: where when he cometh, and selecting the youngest and fairest, he toucheth her with a Rod; and immediately she followeth him into his Cabin of Lechery, where if any action be done, she receiveth from the Head-Clerke her approbation thereupon, which ever afterwards serveth her for a conditional Dowry to her Marriage, with much honour and reputation besides: And if any of them conceive, and the child borne, it is suddenly dispatched from this life: The oldest hundreth, every first Friday of the month are turned out, and another new hundred come in to make good the number: Their entry and issue is always at one of the postern gates of the Park, toward the Sea side, and joining nigh to their Palace: 
A hundred Concubines changed every month.  Whence crossing Bosphore, in an appointed Barge, they both go and come in one day, from and too the Galata, which I myself did see three several times: The oldest and last hundred that are every month dismissed, they depart from the Galata, home to their Parents and several Countries, rejoicing that they were counted worthy to be chosen and entertained to be their Emperor's Concubines. The custom of the great Turk is, every Friday being their Sabbath day after their Service and Dinner, to run at the Glove in an open place before all the people, with some Hagars', or young striplings that accompany him; who have the Glove hanging as high on a stick, as we have the Ring with us: And truly of all the Turkish Emperors that ever were, this Achmet was the most gentle and favourable to Christians; who rather for his bounty and tenderness might have been intitulated the Christian Emperor, than the Pagan King: for he disannulled all the exactions that had been inflicted by his predecessors upon his tributary Christian subjects; and canceled the custom or tithe of their Male children, abrogating also that imposition on their Female Dowries.  
The Lent of the Turks is called Byrham, which continueth the space of a month once in the year: In all which time, from the Sun rising to his setting, they neither eat nor drink: And at their prayers (especially in this fasting) they use often to reiterate these words Hue, hue, hue, that is; he, he, he alone is God; or, There is but one only supreme Power; which they do in derision of Christians, who (as they say) adore three Gods. They have also 〈◊〉 sinister opinion, 
The Turks Paradise,  that at the day of judgement, when Mahomet shall appear, there shall be three displayed Banners, under the which all good people shall be conducted to paradise: the one of Moses, under the which the children of Israel shall be: the second of jesus, under which Christians shall be: The third of Mahomet, under the which shall be the Arabs, Turks, and Musilmans: All which, they think, shall be elevated to several honours; and they in promotion shall be discerned from the rest, by Chambers made of resplendent light, which God will give them; wherein they shall have banquet, feast, dancing, and the best melody can be devised; and that they shall spend their times with amorous Virgins, (whose mansion shall be near by) the men never exceeding the age of thirty years, and the Virgins fifteen, and both shall have their Virginities renewed, as fast, as lost.  
They hold also this, as a confident Article of their Belief, there are seven Paradices in Heaven, the pavements whereof are laid with gold, silver, pearls, precious stones, and garnished with stately buildings, and pleasant Gardens, wherein are all sorts of fruit, and Princely Palaces; through the which run Rivers of Milk, Honey, and Wine.  
The first Paradise, they call it Genete, Alcholde, the second Alfirduzy, the third Anthinak, the fourth Reduasch, the fifth Azelem, the sixth Alcodush, that is holy, and the seventh Almega, that is, the greatest. And that in the midst of this last Paradise, there is a stately tree, called Tubah, the lease of which is partly of gold, and partly of silver: whose boughs extend round about the walls of this seventh Paradise, whereon the name of Mahomet is written, near to the name of God, in these words, Alla illa, he, all ah, Mahomet Rezul allah. The which words are in such reverence amongst the Turks, that if a Christian should happen, unadvisedly to repeat them, he is adjudged to a most cruel death, or compulsed to renounce his Christian Religion.  
Their Lent lasteth 30 days, called Byrham, 
The Turks Lent.  some name it also Ramadan; enduring which time, they eat nor drink nothing from Sun rising to its setting down: but when night cometh they gourmandize at their selfe pleasures: Their month of Lent is our january, where every day after their several devotions, they go to solemn plays; and all kind of profane pastimes: counting that best devotion, which is most suitable to their dispositions; allotting fancy to follow their folly, and blindness, to overtop the ignorance of Nature, drawing all their drifts within the circle of destruction: But indeed, as they are blind, in the true way of sacred worship; yet are they masked with a wonderful zeal to their devoted blindness; surpassing far in show, and observations, the general Professors of Christianity, and all the Ceremonies can be annexed thereunto: Theirs running on with the floods of ignorant affection, and ours distracted with the inutile novelties of superfluous School questions: which indeed do more distemper the truth, than render God to be rightly glorified.  
As concerning their opinion of Hell, 
The Turks opinion of Hell.  they hold it to be a deep Gulf, betwixt two Mountains: from the mouth whereof are Dragon's, that continually throw fire, being large eight leagues, and hath a dark entry, where the horrible Fiends meet the perplexed sinners, conveying them till they come to a Bridge, that is so narrow as the edge of a Razor: whereupon these who have not committed heinous offences, may pass over to Hell, but those who have done Buggery (as the most part of them do) and homicide shall fall headlong from it, to the profoundest pit in Hell, where they shall sometimes burn in fire and sometimes be cast into hot boiling waters to be refreshed. And for the greater punishment of the wicked (say they) God hath planted a Tree in Hell named Sajaratash, or Roozo Saytanah, that is, the head of the Devil, upon the fruit of which, the damned continually feed: Mahomet in one of the Chapters of his Alcoran, calleth this Tree, the Tree of Malediction.  
They also think the tormented souls may one day be saved, providing they do endure the scorching flames of Hell patiently. Thus, as briefly as I could, have I laid open the opinions of the Turks, concerning their Heaven and Hell, before the eyes of these, who peradventure have never been acquainted with such a ghostly Discourse.  
And now I think it not amiss to reckon you up in general all the Roman and Greek Emperors, 
The numbe● of all the Emperors in East & West.  that have been from the beginning to this present time, both in the East, and in the West, with the number of the Turkish Emperors also: Beginning now at julius Caesar, the first dictator or Roman Emperor, to Constantine the Great, who transported the seat of the Empire from Rome to Constantinople, he was the three score and fourth Emperor: And from Constantine the Great in the East, to the first made Emperor in the West, there were thirty nine Emperors: of whom Constantine the sixth, son to Leo the third, with Irena his wife was the last sole Emperor, and she Empress of East and West: After whose death and overthrow, Charlemagne was called into Italy to Danton the Lombard's, who had oppressed that Region, and the peace of the Church for two hundred years: He chased them from Rome, Apulia, and from all Italy, and was therefore declared by Pope Leo, the Roman Emperor of the West: from Charlemagne to this present Ferdinando that now reigneth, Charlemagne being the hundred and fourth, there were forty and one Emperors: So in all, with this Emperor Ferdinando lately Duke of Grass, the number amounts to of these Emperors, counting from julius Caesar to Constantine the sixth, the last sole Emperor of the East, and after him, from Charlemagne the first Emperor of the West, to this time, their number have been a hundred and forty six Emperors.  
Some whereof were Greeks, which cannot perfectly be set down, in regard some were Empresses, and others suddenly elected, were as suddenly murdered or poisoned.  
Now to reckon the Turkish Emperors, I will first begin from the time that the Turks took a Monarchal name, under the name of Ottoman, even to Mahomet the Second, the first Grecian Emperor, beginning, I say at Ottoman, the son of Orthogule the first Emperor of the Turks, and the first that erected the glory of his Nation; there were nine Emperors to Mahomet the Second: And from him to this present Amurath, that now reigneth, there have been eleven Emperors: The number of which are only twenty, and before they come to thirty, they and theirs, I hope, shall be rooted from the earth.  
The Original of the Turks, 
The beginning of the Turks.  is said to have been in Scythia, from whence they came to Arabia p●tnea, and giving battle oft to the Saracens, in the end subdued them, and so they multiplied, and mightily increased: the appearance of their further increasing, is very evident, except God of his mercy towards us prevent their bloodsucking threatenings, with the vengeance of his just judgements.  
The Saracens are descended of Esau, who after he had lost the blessing, went and inhabited in Arabia Petrea; and his posterity, striving to make a clear distinction between them, the Ismaelites, and jews, called themselves (as come of Sara) Sarazens; and not of Hagar, the handmaid of Abraham, of whom came the Ismaelites, neither of the race of jacob, of whom came the jews. But now the Saracens being joined with the Turks, their Conquerors, have both lost their name, and the right of their descent.  
The Turks which are borne and bred in the lesser Asia, 
The Turks complexion.  and East-parts of Europe, are generally well complexioned, proportionably compacted, no idle nor superfluous talkers, servile to their grand Signior, excessively inclined to Venery, and zealous in Religion: their heads are always shaved, reserving only one tuft in the top above, by which they think one day to be caught to Heaven by Mahomet, and covered on all sides, counting it an opprobrious thing to see any uncover his head; they wear their beards long, as a sign of gravity, for they esteem them to be wise men who have long beards: The women are of a low stature, thick and round of growth, going seldom abroad, unless it be each thursday at night, when they go to mourn upon the graves of their dead friends, and then they are modestly masked: they are fearful and shamefaced abroad, but lascivious within doors, and pleasing in matters of incontinency; and they are accounted most beautiful who have the blackest brows, the widest mouths, and the greatest eyes.  
The other Turks which are borne in Asia Major, and Egypt (I speak not of the Moors of Barbary) are of a great stature, tawny, cruel, a barbarous and uncivil people. The better sort use the Salavonian tongue, the vulgar speak the Turkish language, which being originally the Tartarian speech, they borrow from the Persian their words of state, from the Arabic, their words of Religion, from the Grecians their terms of war, and from the Italian their words and titles of navigation.  
The puissance of the great Turk is admirable, yet the most part of his Kingdoms in Asia, are not well inhabited, neither populous, but these parts which border with Christians, are strongly fortified with Castles, people, and munition: If Christian Princes could concord, and consult together, it were an easy thing in one year to subdue the Turks, and root out their very names from the earth; yea moreover I am certified, that there are more Christians even slaves and subjects to the great Turk, which do inhabit his dominions, than might overthrow and conquer these Infidels, if they had worthy Captains, Governors and furniture of Arms, without the help of any Christian Prince of Christendom.  
And yet again, I think it not amiss to discourse more particularly of the Turkish manners, of their riches, and of their forces of wars, and the manner of their conducements.  
The Turks being naturally descended of the Scythians of Tartars, 
The Turks are Tartarians  are of the second stature of man, and robust of nature, circumspect and courageous in all their attempts, and no way given to industry or labour, but are wonderful avaricious and covetous of money above all the nations of the World. They never observe their promises; unless it be with advantage, and are naturally prone to deceive strangers; changing their conditional bargains, as time giveth occasion to their liking; They are humble one to another, but especially to their superiors, before whom they do not only great homage, but also keep great silence, and are wonderful coy during the time of their presence: They are extremely inclined to all sorts of lascivious luxury; and generally addicted, besides all their sensual and incestuous lusts, unto Sodomy, which they account as a dainty to digest all their other libidinous pleasures. They hold that every one hath the hour of his death wrote on his fore brow, and that none can escape, the good or evil hour predestinated for them: This ridiculous error makes them so bold and desperate, yea, and often, to run headlong in the most inevitable dangers: They are not much given to domestic pastimes, as Chess, Cards, 
Libidinous Turks.  Dice, and Tables; but abroad and in travel they are exceeding kind disposers of their meat and drink to any stranger without exception: The better sort of their women, are sumptuously attired, and adorned with pearls and precious stones, and some of them are accustomed to turn their hands and hair into a red colour, but especially the nails of their hands and feet; and are wont to go to bathe themselves in Stoves twice a week, as well as men.  
The true Turks wear on their heads white Turbans, save a few that are esteemed to be of Mahomet●s Kindred, and they wear green Sashes, being most part of them Priests: the better part of the Turks in Asia, care not for fish, but these Turks which remain in Europe love Fish better than Flesh, especially at Constantinople or Stambolda, where the best Fishes and most abundance of them are taken that be in the World, and that in the black Sea: They are ever desirous to seek advantage on their neighbours, which if they cannot by force, they will under colour of truce, accomplish it with perfidiousness. And if their enterprises, find no happy event, they are never a whit ashamed to take the flight, yet are they generally good Soldiers, and well taught in Martial discipline: Their Armies in marching, or camping (notwithstanding infinite multitudes) keep modesty and silence, and are extremely obedient unto their Captains and Commanders: When the great Signior is abroad with his Army at Wars, the Turks at home within Towns, use great prayers and fasting for him and them. They ingeniously describe the victories of their Ancestors, and joyfully sing them in Rhymes and Songs; thinking thereby that fashion in recalling the valiant deeds of their Predecessors, to be the only means to encourage their soldiers to be hardy, 
Turks are no Scholars.  resolute and desperate in all their enterprises: They are not given to contemplation, nor study of Letters or Arts; yet they have divers fair Schools, where the public Lecture of their legal Laws are professed, and Mahometanisme; to the intent that Children, being elected to be brought up there for a time may be instructed, to be profitable expounders of their Alcoran, and judicious Judges for the government of the Commonwealth: It is seldom, and rarely seen, that a Turk will speak with a woman in the streets; nay, not so much as in their Mosques one to be in sight of another; and yet they are Lords and Masters of their Wives and Concubines, from whom they receive as great respect, service, and honour, as from their bond and bought slaves.  
Now as concerning his riches, the chiefest three parts of Commerce of all kind of merchandise, and abounding in silver and gold in all the Turks dominions, as well in Asia, and Africa, as Europe, are these Constantinople in Thracia of Europe: Aleppo in Syria of Asia major; and Grand Cairo in Egypt of Africa: for these are the three Magezines of the whole Empire, that draw the whole riches, money, and traffic to them of all the Imperial Provinces: 
The Great Turks yearly rent.  It is thought that ordinarily and annually the Rent of the great Turk amounteth to sixteen Millions of Gold, notwithstanding that some do make it lesser: But because it is so hard to judge of any Monarch's Rents; being like the infinite concavities of the earth, sending, and receiving so innumerable ways their streams of riches, I'll desist from any other instances: And yet the great Turk's revenues, are no way answerable to his great and large Dominions: The causes arising hereupon are many, of whom I will select three or four of the chiefest reasons: First the Turks being more given to arms, to conquer, to destroy and ruin, and to consume the wealth of the people they overcome, leaving them destitute, of nuriture; rather than any way to give course for their increasing and stablishing of traffic, out of which should flow the Royal advantages. And the reason why they keep their subjects poor, and frustrate themselves of great profits; is only to weaken, and enfeeble them, whereby they should not have wherewith to move insurrection or rebellion against them. 
Certain reasons.  And on the other part, the Greeks are as unwiling to be industrious in Arts, Traffic or Cultivage; seeing what they possess is not their own, but is taken from them at all occasions, with tyranny & oppression. For what gains the sour, if another reap the profit? So in the Ottomans estate, there be great Forests, and desartuous Countries; proceeding of the scarcity of people to inhabit there, the multitudes being drawn from Asia, to strengthen the frontiers of his dominions in Europe.  
And besides there is another reason of the dispopulosity of these parts▪ to wit, when the Great Turk's Army is to march to a far Country to make wars, then must their vulgar subdued peasants, perhaps twenty or thirty thousands go along with them, to carry their victuals, and all manner of provision, being taken from the plough, are constrained to this servitude, and notwithstanding the half of them never return again: Partly, because of the change of food, and air, and partly because of their long travels and insupportable service, both in heat and cold: And to these of the first reason, there is an other perpendicular cause; to wit, that the whole commerce of all commodiites in Turkey, is in the hands of jews and Christians, to wit, Ragusans, Venetians, English, French, and Flemings, who so warily manage their business, that they enjoy the most profits of any trading there, dissappointing the Turks own subjects of their due, and ordinary traffic.  
The last and most principal reason is, 
Parcels of ground for Timariot.  which is a great deal of more importance than his Revenues; to wit, the great number of his Timars: for the Turkish Emperors, being immediate Masters of the lands they overcome, they divide the same in Timars or commandments: leaving little or nothing at all to the ancient Inhabitants; they dispose upon these proportions, to valorous Soldiers, that have done good service: And with this condition, that they maintain, and have always in readiness Horses for the wars: which is an excellent good order for the preservation of his Empire; for if these Timariot were not rewarded, with such absolute possessions of parcel grounds, the state of his power would suddenly run to ruin: for the profit of which lands, maintaining themselves, their horses and their families, maketh them the more willing to concur in the infallible service of their Emperor: These Timars or grounds, entertain through all his Dominions, about two hundred and fifty thousand horses, that are ever in readiness to march at the first advertisement, without any charge to the great Signior, being bound to maintain themselves in during the wars: And yet these Timariot, and their horses cannot yearly be maintained under the value of ten Millions of Gold: The consideration whereof, makes me astonished, when I recall, the relation of some ragged Authors, who dare compare the great Turk's Revenues unto our petty Princes of Christendom.  
This establishment of Timars, and the by past election of Azamglians, or young children to be made janissaries have been the two strong Foundations, that supported so inviolably the Turk's Empire. The Roman Emperors for a long time used the self same manner for the assuring of their persons, and estate, in election of young males to be their guard. They were called the Praetorian Army, and this taxation of children was the first thing that moved the Flemings, to revolt against the Romans.  
As for the Turkish Cavalry, they sustain two important effects, 
Policies of Turks.  first they keep under awe and subjection, the great Turk's subjects who otherwise perhaps would tevolt: And next they are ordained for any dependant enterprise for field Garrisons, yea, and the principal finewes of the wars: and yet the election of the grand Signior, lieth most in the hands of the janissaries, who cannot perfectly say he is Emperor before they confirm him in his Throne.  
The Turks have three things in their Armies which are very fearful, to wit, the infinite number of men, great Discipline, and force of Munition: And for Discipline, they are not only governed with great silence, and obedience, but they are ruled also with signs of the eye, and being tractable, they are tied to main condusements: And although their multitudes have often bred confusion to them, so that little Armies have broke and overcome them; yet in their flight they are so cautelous, that a small number can do them no absolute violence nor final overthrow: for as they assail, so they fly without fear.  
The first Residence of the Turkish Emperor after his coming from Egypt, was at Priusa in Bythinia: thence it was transported to Andreanople, and then to Constantinople, where it abideth to this day: Besides, all his great Bassaws in Europe, which are eight, one in Buda, in Hungary, another in Moldavia, the third in Dacia, the fourth at Bagaviliezza in Bosna, 
Beglerb●gs, or Bashaws.  etc. He hath also in Africa a Bassaw, in Algiers, another in Tuneis, the third in Tripoli, and the fourth in Egypt, etc. And in Asia major, and minor, to wit, one in Aleppo of Syria, one in Damascus, another at Balsera, the fourth at Mecha in Arabia foelix, the fifth in Carmania, the sixth in Cyprus, the seventh in the Rhodes, the eighth at Arzeron in Armenia major, the ninth and tenth at Teslis & Upon, on the Frontiers of Gurgestan and Persia, etc. For Arsenals he hath four for Sea, to wit, one at Perah, or Galata, containing a hundred thirty and three Galleys: The second at Gallipoli of twenty Galleys: The third Arsenal is at Savezza upon the Red Sea, consisting of twenty five Galleys: And the fourth is at Belsara in Arabia foelix, towards the Persian Gulf, depending of fifteen Galleys, which are kept there to afflict the Portugals, remaining in the Isle of Ormus; and other parts adjacent there.  
The Turks have a custom, when they are Masters of any Province, to extermine all the native Nobility, chiefly those of the blood Royal of the Country: And nevertheless they permit to all and every one of theirs to live and follow his own Religion as he pleaseth without violence or constraint.  
Amongst the Turks there is no Gentility, nor Nobility, but are all as ignoble and inferior members, to one main body the Great Turk, lineally descending of the House of Ottoman: whose magnificence, puissance, and power is such, that the most eloquent tongue cannot sufficiently declare: His thousands of janissaries, Shouses, and others daily attending him: which are the nerves and sinews of the Warlike body of his whole Monarchy and Imperial Estate: His hundreds (besides his Queen) of Concubines, hourly maintained by his means, and monthly renewed: His Armies, Pashas, Emeeres, Vizier-bashawes, Sanzacks', Garrisons, and forces here and there dispersed amongst his Dominions, would be impossible for me briefly to relate. The inhuman policy of the Turks to avoid civil dissension is such, that the seed of Ottoman (all except one of them) are strangled to death: Wherefore, as Augustus Caesar said of Herod in the like case, It is better to be the Great Turk's Dog, than his Son. His Daughters or Sisters are not so used, but are given in Marriage to any Bassa, whom so they affect; yet with this condition; the King saith to his Daughter, or Sister, I give thee this man to be thy slave; and if he offend thee in any case, or be disobedient to thy will, here I give thee a Dagger to cut off his head; which always they wear by their sides for the same purpose.  
The Persians differ much from the Turks, in nobility, humanity, 
●oble Persians,  and activity, and especially 〈◊〉 of Religion: who by contention think each other accursed, and notwithstanding both factions are under the Mahometanicall Law. Neither are the sons of the Persian Kings, so barbarously handled, as theirs; for all the brethren (one excepted) are only made blind, wanting their eyes, and are always afterward gallantly maintained like Princes. And it hath oftentimes fallen out, that some of these Kings, dying without procreate Heirs; there have of these blind sons succeeded to the Empire, who have restored again the seed of that Royal Family.  
And now▪ the great advantage, that the Turks have daily upon the Persians, is only because of their Infantry, which the Persians no ways are accustomed with, fight always on Horseback: neither are the Persians addicted or given to build Forts, or Fortifications, neither have they any great use of Munition, but exposing themselves ever to the field in the extreme hazard of battle, 
Babylon regained by the Persians.  become ever doubtful in their victories: whose courage and valour cannot be paralleled among all the people of the Eastern World, as Babylon in their late and last fortunes may give sufficient testimony thereof.   

The fifth Part.  
CLose bounded Hellespont, Earth's Mother sport  
I leave: ' longest the Aeolid lists, I Smyrna court:  
Thence Samothrace, and Rhodos, I accost,  
Which Lilidamus Viliers, manly lost:  
The Lycian bounds, and steep Pamphilian shores  
I strictly view: The sea Carpathian roars,  
I land at Cyprus: Seline is the place,  
Whence I that Kingdom, to Nicosia trace:  
From Famagust fair Asia, than I courted  
And Libanon; whence Cedars were transported  
For Zions Temple: And my toils to crown  
I sight great Aleppe, Syriaes' Lady Town:  
Then passing Mesopotame; Chelfanes land,  
I stay at Beershack, on Euphrates strand:  
Thence back by Damas', Arabia Petrea,  
Galilee, Samaria, mountainous Judea  
I toiling came: And at Jerusalem,  
I lodged near Moriah, in a Cloystred frame.  
THe Winter expired, and the Spring gone, time summoned me after three month's repose, to embrace the violence of a fiery faced season: where having dutifully taken my leave of many worthy friends, who both kindly, and respectively had used me; especially, the aforesaid English Ambassador, Sir Thomas Glover: And the new Ambassador, Sir Paul Pinder, who had lately arrived there before my departure, and had been formerly Consul in Aleppo five years.  
I left Constantinople, and embarked in a ship belonging to London, named the Allathya, whereof one Master Wylds in Ratcliff was Master, where indeed both he and his company kindly and respectively used me, for the space of 12 days; being bound for Smyrna, and so we sailed along the Coast of Bythinia in Asia minor.  
Bythinia hath on the North Hellespont: On the West Phrygia, on the East Pontus: and on the South Capadceia, or Leuco Syria: The chief Cities are Chalcedon, where, by command of the Emperor Martianus, the fourth General Council was assembled, to repel the Heresy of Nestorius. Nigh unto the side of Hellespont is Mount Stella, famous for that victory which Pompey had over Mithridates: And where Tamberlane with 800000 Tartarians encountered Bajazet, whose Army consisted of 500000 men; of which 200000 lost their lives that day: And Bajazet being taken, was carried about in an Iron Cage, 
Bajazet taken by Tamberlane.  on whose neck Tamberlane used to set his foot, when he mounted on horseback; and at last beat out his own brains against the bars of the Iron Cage: the the next Cities are Nicomedia, and Nyce, where the first General Council was kept, Anno 314 to which there assembled 318 Bishops to beat down the Arian Heresy, The other Towns are Prusa and Labissa; the former was built by Prusias King of Bythinia, who betrayed Hannibal when he fled to him for succour; in the latter Hannibal lieth buried. Prusa was along time the seat of the Ottoman Kings, till Mahomet the first began to keep his Residence at Andrianople: The chief Rivers are Ascanius, Sangaro, and Granico, nigh unto which Alexander obtained the first victory against the Persians.  
Having passed Bythinia, and the Phrygian coast, we fetched up Cenchrea, where Saint Paul cut his hair, after his vow was performed Acts 18. 18, Being a Town now inhabited by Greeks, with a Turkish Governor, and of small importance, in regard of other neighbouring places, that bereave them of their traffic; and because the jews do not much frequent here, the Inhabitants are rather turned spectators to Virtue, than any way inherent to necessary goodness: want of Strangers being let, one and vicious otiosity the other stop: This City standeth by the sea side in the North part of jonia but more truly on the East frontiers of Lydia. Lydia hath on the West Phrigia minor on the South jonia: on the East Paphlagonia, on the Northwest Aeolus, & a part of Phrygia mayor. The chief Metropole is Sardis, once the royal seat of Croesus the richest King in his time, who in his full prosperity was told by Solon, that no man could reck on upon felicity so long as he lived, because there might be great mutability of Fortune, which afterward he found true: The recital of which advertisement, when he was taken Prisoner by Cyrus saved his life: The next City is Pergamus, where Parchment was first invented, and therefore called Pergamenum: here was Galen borne, who lived so healthfully one hundred and forty years: the reason whereof, he thus affixeth, he never eat or drunk his full, & ever carried some sweet perfumes with him. The other Towns are Thyatira, Laodicea, and Philadelphia.  
Upon the twelfth day after the departure from Constantinople, we arrived at Smirna, being four hundred miles distant.  
This City was one of the seven Churches mentioned Revelation 2. 8. 
The City of Smirna.  And standeth in jonia: of this place was the famous Martyr Policarpus Bishop, who sometims had been Scholar to john the Evangelist: and living till he was of great age, was at last put to death for Christ's sake. It is a goodly place, having a fair Haven for ships: They have great traffic with all Nations; especially for fine Silk, cotton-wool, and Dimmety, brought to it by the Country Peasants, which strangers buy from them.  
Truly, near unto this City, I saw a long continuing Plain, abounding in Corns, Wines, all sorts of fruitful Herbage, and so infinitely peopled, that me thought Nature seemed with the people's industry to contend, the one by propagating Creatures, the other by admirable agriculture.  
That for Commodities and pleasure it is little inferior unto the Valley of Suda, in Candy, which maketh the inhabitants wondrous insolent: for as mirth is made of pleasure, 
Wealth is the ●other of ●vice.  and with pleasures all vices are baited; even so there is not a more incorrigible creature than man in prosperity, nor so modest nor reform an one, as he, to whom fortune hath lent but a sparing and crooked favour, which indeed I hold best of all: for it is the forming of the mind, not the tongue, nor hand, that can prefer us to true felicity: And would to God that these, upon whom none but fair winds have ever blown, in the career of their supposed happiness, could but see for all their high and over-topping places, their end, and resting place: since they are nought but the arrows of the Omnipotent arm, that are yet flying not at theirs, but his mark; and no more owners of their own proposed ends, than they are guilty of their own beginnings: surely they would cover their faces with another kind of mask than they do: and make their actions seem more clear, than the force of policy can obumbrate their wicked devices.  
Thyatira now called Tyria, one also of the seven Churches, is not from Smyrna above eighteen miles.  
From this City (having left my kind English men and their stately Ship that carried 24 pieces of Ordnance,) I embarked in a Turkish Carmosale, that carried nothing but her loading, being bound for Rhodes. In our sailing along the C●ast of jonia, 
Ephesus decayed.  the first place of any note I saw, was the ruinous City of Ephesus; yet somewhat inhabited with Greeks, jews, and a few Turks; but no ways answerable to its former glory and magnificence, being rather a monument for memory, than a continuing Town of any excellency: nevertheless it is pleasantly adorned with Gardens, fair Fields, and green Woods of Olive trees, which on the Sea do yield a delectable prospect: It was one of the seven Churches. Revelat. 2. 1. This was one of the most renowned Cities in Asia the lesser but the fame thereof arose from the Temple of Diana: which for the spaciousness, furniture, and magnificent workmanship was accounted one of the seven World's Wonders: It was two hundred years in building, being four hundred twenty five foot long, and two hundred broad: It was seven several times burnt, whereof the most part was with Lightning, and lastly, the final destruction of it, came by a base fellow Erostratus, who to purchase himself a name, 
Diana's Temple burnt.  did set it on fire. Timothy was Bishop of Ephesus, to the people whereof, Saint Paul directed one of his Epistles, and finally, it is famous for the burial of Saint john the Evangelist▪ It was said of this place, in the Acts of the Apostles, that all Asia, and the whole World did worship here Diana: Tully reporteth, De natura Deorum, that Timaeus being demanded the reason why the Temple of Diana was set on fire that night, when Alexander the Great was born: gave this jest thereof, that the Mistress of it was from home; because she being the Goddess of Midwives, did that night wait upon Olympias the mother of Alexander the Great, who was brought to bed in Macedonia.  
Over against this City is the Isle Lango, 
The Isle Lango, or Coos.  anciently called Coos, wherein the great Hippocrates was borne, and Appelles, the Painter most excellent. It is both fertile, and populous, and of circuit above fourscore miles. There is a kind of Serpent said to be in it, so friendly unto the inhabitants, that when the men are sleeping under the shadow of trees, they come crawling, and will link or clasp themselves about their necks and bodies, without doing any harm, neither when they awake are the beasts afraid.  
And near to Lango, is the Isle Nixa of old Strangoli; and by some called Dionysia and Naxus, an Island both fruitful and delightful. As we sailed by the west part of the Isle, a Greekish passenger showed me the place, where (as he said) Ariadne was deceived of Theseus, which is not far from the irriguate plain of Darmille.  
Continuing our Navigation, 
Excellent Swimmers.  I saw the little Isle Ephdosh, where the Turks told me, that all the Islanders were naturally good swimmers, paying no more tribute to their great Lord the Turk, save only once in the year there are certain men and women chosen by a Turkish Captain, who must swim a whole league right out in the Sea, and go down to the bottom of the waters, to fetch thence some token they have got ground: And if they shall happen to fail in this, the Island will be reduced again to pay him yearly rend. This I saw with mine eyes, whiles we being calmed, there came a man, and two women swimming to us, more than a mile of way, carrying with them (dry above the water) baskets of fruit to sell, the which made me not a little to wonder. For when they came to the ships side, they would neither board, nor boat with us, but lay leaning, or as it were resting themselves on the Sea, upon their one side, and sold so their fruits, keeping Compliments and discourses with us above an hour. Contenting them for their ware, & a fresh gale arising, we set forward, accosting the little Isle of Samothracia.  
This Isle of Samothracia, was called of old Dardania, and now by the Turks Samandracho; a place of small note, considering the quantity of the Isle, & the few number of Inhabitants: their lives being answerable to their means; ignorance and servitude, two strong commanders of infirm weaklings, and no less powerful, than they are debile in the debt of worthiness; which the younglings of understanding, and sucklings of far looked to knowledge, can never be able to escape, although a true profession covereth many natural imperfections; and in it a hope for blessedness, which indeed more wish for, then rightly understand it. And upon the ninth day after our departure from Smyrna, we arrived at the City of Rhodes, so called of the Island wherein it standeth.  
Rhodes lieth in the Carpa●hian Sea, 
The Isle of Rhodes.  it was of old called Ithrea, Telchino, and Phiula: Pliny saith it was called Rhodes, because there were certain fields of Roses in it; for Rhodos in the Greek tongue signifieth a Flower: Not far from the City, and at the entry of the Haven, I saw the relics of that huge, and admiredly erected Idol, named Colossus Rhodius, or the mighty Image of the Sun; which was made in honour thereof: from the which Saint Paul termed the Inhabitants Colossians. 
The Idol Colossus.  It was builded by the worthy Canete Lindo in the space of twelve years: others have said, of Callasses the Disciple of Lisippus, taking the name Colossus of him, and it was thought worthy to be one of the seven earthly Wonders, and so it might justly have been: The quantity whereof (as yet) may amaze the mind of the beholder: It was erected in the Image of a man, being eighty Cubits high, and so big that the little finger of it was as big as an ordinary man: between whose legs, (it standing in the Harbour's mouth, with a leg on each side of the entery) Ships were wont to pass under with taunt sails: When Mnavi General of Caliph Osman first united this Isle to the Mahometan Empire, and broke down the greatest part of this Statue▪ the brass whereof was said to be so much that it loaded nine hundred Camels.  
This Isle belonged once to the Knights of Malta, and were then surnamed Knights of the Rhodes, but they came first out of Acre in the Holy Land; who were called Knights of St. john; who viriliously expulsed the Saracens from thence, Anno 1308. who had formerly taken it from the divided Grecians: These Knights sorely in vested the Turks for the space of two hundred years, till Solyman the magnificent, at last invaded and subdued it: The Rhodians were ever good friends to the Romans, in somuch that when all the other Mediterranean Islands revolted to Mythridates of Pontus, this only adhered to the Romans.  
This Isle of Rhodes within the space of 25 years was three times mightily endangered by violent and extreme impetuosities of rain: in such sort that the last flood did drown the greatest part of the Inhabitants: 
Inundation of waters.  which beginning in the Springtime did continue to Summer, and in all this time, it broke violently down their houses, and in the night killed the people lying in their beds; and in the day time such as were sheltered under safeguard of their dwelling: which was a miserable destruction, and the like of it scarcely heard of since the universal Deluge.  
But true it is, as these Ominous judgements falling upon particular parts & parcels of people are justly executed; yet they serve for Caveats for all others in general (sin being the original of all) to take heed of offending the Creator, in abusing the bestuse of the Creature.  
The City of Rhodes hath two strong Fortresses, in one of which these Knights (Lilladamus Villiers being great Master, who were about five hundred only, and five thousand Rhodians who assisted them) were besieged by an Army of two hundred thousand Turks, and three hundred Galleys, for the space of six months. The chief obstacle, and impeaching of so great an Army from taking it, was only the resolute valour of the defendants. But in end, the multitude over-mastring valour, and the Cavalieri di Rhodo, wanting furniture to their Munition, and being penurious of victuals, were constrained to render, upon the conditional safety of their lives, goods, and transportation; and remained a long time without any habitation, 
Rhodes take● by Solyman.  till the King of Spain gave them the barren Isle of Malta to inhabit: This Isle of Rhodes was lost by the Maltezes, Anno Domini 1522. And on Christmas day Solyman entered the Town as conqueror, though he might justly have said (as Pyrrhus once said of his victory over the Romans) that such another victory would utterly have undone him; he lost so many of his bravest Commanders, and best Soldiers. It is ever since in the fruition of Turks: The Fortress of Rhodes, and that Fortress Famogusta, in Cyprus, are the two strongest Holds, in all the Empire of the great Turk.  
And by the way here I must record, that if the Great Turk, and his great Counsel, were not good paymasters to their janissaries, and speedy rewarders of their common Soldiers; it were impossible for him the Emperor, or them the Bassaws to manage so great a State, and to keep under obedience so headstrong a multitude, and such turbulent forces: 
Soldier's should be regarded and rewarded.  for by your leave, if a Soldier's industry be not quickened and animated with bountiful rewards; he hath less will to perform any part of Martial service; then a dead Coarse hath power to arise out of the Grave: for what can be more precious to man, than his blood, being the fountain and nurse of his vital spirits, and the ground of his bodily substance; which no free or ingenious nature will hazard to lose for nothing.  
And whosoever shall argument or discourse upon sound reason, and infallible experience, may easily prove and perceive, that these Commanders have ever best prospered, which have most liberally maintained, and had in singular regard, Military Arts and Soldiers; otherwise the honourable mind, would account it a great deal better to have death without life, than life without reward: yea, and the noble Commander, desiring rather to want, then to suffer worth unrecompensed.  
Rhodes joineth near to the Continent, over against Caria, now called Carmania, under which name the Turks comprehend Pamphilia, jonia, and Lycia: Caria by the Sea side, hath Lycia to the South, and Caria to the North: The chief cities are Manissa, and Mindum, which having great gates, being but a small Town, made Diogenes the Cynic cry out▪ Ye Citizens of Mindum, take heed, that your City run not out of your gates: The third is Hallicarnasso, where Dionysius was borne, who writ the History of Rome for the first three hundred years: Of which Town also the Province took the name; for Artemisia, who aided Xerxes against the Grecians was by some Authors named Queen of Hallicarnasso. This was she, who in honour of her husband Mausoloa, built that curious Sepulchre, 
Mausol●os Tomb.  accounted for one of the world's wonders; it being twenty five cubits high, and supported with thirty six admirable wrought pillars.  
After I had contented the master for my fraught and victuals (who as he was an Infidel, used me with great exaction) I found a Bark of the Arches purposed to Cyprus, with the which I embarked, being four hundred miles distant.  
This Tarterata, or Demigalleyeot, belongeth to the Isle of Stagiro, anciently Thasia, wherein there were Mines of gold, in these times that afforded yearly to Philip King of Macedon, about fourscore talents of gold, but now mightily impoverished and of no consequence: The chief Town whereof is Palmapreto, where divers greeks hold the opinion, Homer was interred, having a famous Seaport, which is a common resting place for all the Oriental Pirates, or Cursarces; which maketh the Isle half desolate of people; and these few scarce worthy of their dwellings.  
Having past the Gulf of Sattelia, 
Pamphyli● and Lycia.  and the Isle Carpathia, whence that part of the Sea taketh his Name: we boarded close along the coast of Lycia, and the firm land of fruitful Pamphylia; the chief City of Lycia is Patras, watered with the River Xanthus, whence the people were called Zanthi, afterward Lycians of Ly●us, son to Pandion: It lieth 'twixt Caria and Pamphylia, as Pamphylia lieth between it and Cilicia: The chief Town in Pamphylia is Seleucia, built by Seleucus, one of Alexander's successors: on the East of Lycia within land bordereth Lycaonia, etc. Having left Pamphylia behind us, we fetched up the coast of Cilicia, sustaining many great dangers, both of tempestuous storms, and invasions of damnable Pirates, who gave us divers assaults to their own disadvantages; our saylage being swifter, then either their swallowing desires could follow, or our weak and inresolute defence could resist.  
Here in this Country of Cilicia, was Saint Paul borne in the now decayed Town of Tharsus, who for antiquity will not succumb to any City of Anatolia, being as yet the Mistress of that Province, though neither for worth, nor wealth.  
All ancient things by Time revolve in nought  
As if their Founders, had no founding wrought.  
But tho● torn Tharsus, brooks a glorious name,  
For that great Saint, who in thee had his frame:  
So may Cilicians joy, the Christian sort,  
That from their bounds, rose such a mighty Fort.  
Twelve days was I between Rhodes and Limisso in Cyprus; where arrived, I received more gracious demonstrations from the Islanders, 
The description of Cyprus  than I could hope for, or wish, being far beyond my merit or expectation; only contenting my curiosity with a quiet mind, I read ounded thanks for my embraced courtesies.  
The people are generally strong and nimble, of great civility, hospitality to their neighbours, and exceedingly affectionated to strangers. The second day after my arrival, I took with me an Interpreter, and went to see Nicosia, which is placed in the midst of the Kingdom. But in my journey thither, extreme was the heat and thirst I endured; both in respect of the season, and also want of water▪ And although I had with me sufficiency of wine, yet durst I drink none thereof, being so strong, and withal had a taste of pitch; and that is, because they have no Barrels, but great Jars made of earth, wherein their Wine is put. And these Jars are all enclosed within the ground save only their mouths, which stand always open like to a Source or Cistern; whose insides are all interlarded with pitch to preserve the earthen Vessels unbroke asunder, in regard of the forcible Wine; yet making the taste thereof unpleasant to liquorous lips; and turneth the Wine, too heady for the brain in digestion, which for health groweth difficult to strangers; and to themselves a swallowing up of diseases.  
To cherish life and blood, the health of Man,  
Give me a T●ast, plunged in a double Can,  
And spiced with Ginger: for the wrestling Grape  
Makes Man, become from Man, a sottish Ape.  
Nicosia is the principal City of Cyprus, and is environed with Mountains, like unto Florence in Aetruria; wherein the Beglerbeg remaineth: The second is Famogusta, the chief strength and Seaport in it: Seli●a, Lemisso, Paphos, and Fontana Morosa, are the other four special Towns in the Island.  
This Isle of Cyprus was of old called Achametide, 
The six Cities of Cyprus.  Amatusa, and by some Marchara, that is happy: It is of length extending from East to West, 210, large 60, and of circuit 600 miles. It yieldeth infinite canes of Sugar, cotton-wool, Oil, Honey, Corns, Turpentine, Allom, Verdegreece, Grograms, store of Metals and Salt; besides all other sorts of fruit and commodities in abundance. It was also named Cerastis, because it butted toward the East with one horn: and lastly Cyprus, from the abundance of Cypress trees there growing. This Island was consecrated to Venus, wherein Paphos she was greatly honoured, termed hence, Dea Cypri.  
Festa dies Veneris tota celeberrima Cypro,  
Venerat, ipsa suis aderat Venus au re● festis.  
Venus' feast day, through Cyprus hallowed came,  
Whose feasts, her presence, dignified the same.  
Cyprus lieth in the Gulf between Cilicia and Syria, having Egypt to the West: Syria to the South: Cilicia to the East: and the Pamphylian Sea to the North: It hath four chief Capes or Headlands: first, Westward the Promontory of Acanias, modernly Capo di santo Epifanio: to the South the Promontory Phae●ria, now Capo Bianco: to the East Pedasia, modernly Capo di Graeco, to the North the high foreland Cramenion, now Capo di Cormathita: these four are the chiefest Promontores of the Island, and Cape di S. Andrea in the furthest point Eastward toward Cilicia: Diodore and Pliny say that anciently it contained nine Kingdoms, and fifteen good Towns: Cera●●a now Selina, was built by Cyrus, who subdued the nine petty Kings of this Isle: Nicosia is situate in the bottom or plain of Massara, and thirty four miles from Famogusta; and the Town of Famogusta was formerly named Salamus: I was informed by some of sound experience here, that this Kingdom containeth about eight hundred and forty Villages, besides the six capital Towns, two whereof are nothing inferior for greatness and populosity to the best Towns in Candy, Sicily, or Greece.  
The chiefest and highest mountains in this Isle, is by the Cypriots called Trohodos, 
Trohodos a huge Hill in Cyprus.  it is of height eight, and of compass forty eight miles, whereon there are a number of Religious Monasteries, the people whereof are called Colieroes, and live under the order of Saint Basile. There is abundance here of Coriander seed, with medicinable Rhubarb, and Turpentine. Here are also mines of Gold in it, of Chrysocole, of Calthante, of Allome, Iron, and exceeding good Copper. And besides these mines, there are divers precious stones found in this Isle, as Emeralds, Diamonds, Crystal, Coral, red and white, and the admirable stone Amiante, whereof they make Linen cloth, that will not burn being cast into the fire, but serveth to make it neat and white.  
The greatest imperfection of this Isle, is scarcity of water, and too much plenty of scorching heat and fabulous grounds. The inhabitants are very civil, courteous, and affable, and notwithstanding of their delicious and delicate fare, they are much subject to Melancholy, of a Robust Nature, and good Warriors, if they might carry Arms: It is recorded, that in the time of Constantine the Great, this Isle was all utterly abandoned of the Inhatants, and that because it did not rain for the space of six and thirty years. After which time, and to replant this Region again, the chiefest Colonies came from Egypt, judea, Syria, Cilicia, Pamphylia, Thracia, and certain Territories of Greece: And it is thought, in the years 1163, 
Comparison of Isles.  after that Guy of Lusingham, the last Christian King of jerusalem had lost the Holy Land, a number of French men, stayed and inhabited here; of whom sprung the greatest Race of the Cyprian Gentility; and so from them are descended the greatest Families of the Phoenician Sydonians, modernely Drusians: though ill divided, and worse declined; yet they are sprung both from one Original: the distraction arising from Conscience of Religion, the one a Christian, the other a Turk.  
The three Isles of Cyprus, Candy, and Sicily, are the only Monarchal Queens of the Mediterranean Seas: 
Cyprus replanted.  and semblable to other in fertility, length, breadth, and circuit: save only Candy that is somewhat more narrow than the other two, and also more Hilly and sassinous: yet for Oils and Wines, she is the Mother of both the other: Sicily being for Grain and Silks the Empress of all: and Cyprus for Sugar and cotton-wool, a darling sister to both; only Sicily being the most civil Isle, and nobly Gentilitate, the Cypriots indifferently good, and the Candiots the most ruvid of all.  
The chief Rivers are Teneo, and Pedesco: Cyprus was first by Teucer made a Kingdom, who after the Trojan War came and dwelled here: and afterward being divided between nine petty Princes, it was subdued by Cyrus, the first Monarch of the Medes and Persians. After the subversion of which Empire, this Isle was given to the Ptolemy's of Egypt: from whom Cato conquered it to the benefit of the Romans. The Dukes of Savoy were once Kings of Cyprus; but the Inhabitants usurping their authority, elected Kings to themselves of their own generation: 
The Dukes of Savoy were Kings of Cyprus.  and so it continued, till the last King of Cyprus, james the Bastard (marrying with the Daughter of a noble Venetian, Catherina Cornaro) died without children, leaving her his absolute heir. And she perceiving the factious Nobility, too headstrong, to be bridled by a female authority, like a good child, resigned her Crown and Sceptre to the Venetian Senate, Anno 1473. Whereupon the Venetians embracing the opportunity of time, brought her home, and sent Governors thither to bear sway in their behalf; paying only as Tribute to the Egyptian Sultan's 40000 Crowns, which had been due ever since Melecksala had made john of Cyprus his Tributary.  
It was under their Jurisdiction 120 years and more; till that the Turks, whoever oppose themselves against Christians (finding a fit occasion in time of peace, and without suspicion in the Venetians) took it in with a great Armado, Anno 1570, and so till this day by them is detained. Oh great pity! that the usurpers of God's Word, and the World's great enemy, should maintain (without ea●e) that famous Kingdom, being but one thousand and ●ifty Turks in all, who are the keepers of it: unspeakable is the calamity of that poor afflicted Christian people under the terror of these Infidels; who would, if they ●ad Arms, or assistance of any Christian Potentate, ea●ly subvert and abolish the Turks, without any disturbance; yea, and would render the whole Signiory thereof to such a noble Actor. I do not see in that small judgement, which by experience I have got, but the redemption of that Country where most facile; if that the generous heart of any Christian Prince, would be moved with condign compassion to relieve the miserable afflicted Inhabitants. In which work he should reap (questionless) not only an infinite treasure of Worldly commodities, that followeth upon so great a conquest, but also a heavenly and eternal reward of immortal glory. The which deliverance Ferdinando Duke of Florence, thought to have accomplished (having purchased the good will of the Islanders) with five Gallounes', 
The Florentines attempted to conquer Cyprus.  and 5000 Soldiers: Who being mindful to take first in the fortress of Famogusta, directed so their course, that in the night, they should hate entered the Haven, disbarke their men, and scale the walls.  
But in this plot they were far disappointed by an unhappy Pilot of the Vice-admiral, who mistaking the Port, went into a wrong Bay: which the Florentines considering, resolved to return, and keepethe sea, till the second night; but by a dead calm, they were frustrated of their aims, and on the morrow discovered by the Castle: Whereupon the Turks went presently to arms, & charged the Inhabitants to come to defend that place: But about four hundred greeks in the westpart, at Paphus, rebelled; thinking that time had altered their hard fortunes, by a new change: but alas, they were prevented, & every one cut off by the bloody hands of the Turks. this massacre was committed in the year 1607. Such always are the torturing flames of Fortune's smiles, that he who most affecteth her, she most and altogether deceiveth: But they who trust in the Lord, shall be as stable as Mount Zion, which cannot be removed; and questionless, one day God, in his all eternal mercy, will relieve their miseries, and in his just judgements, recompense these bloody oppressors with the heavy vengeance of his allseeing Justice.  
In my return from Nicosia, to Famogusta, with my Trench-●an, we encountered by the way with four Turks, who needs would have my Mule to ride upon; which my Interpreter refused: But they in a revenge, pulled me by the heels from the Mules back, beating me most pitifully, and left me almost for dead. In this meanwhile my companion fled, and escaped the sceleratnesse of their hands; and if it had not been for some compassionable Greeks, who by accident came by, and relieved me, I had doubtless immediately perished.  
Here I remember between this Isle and Sydon that same Summer, 
A Sea combat  there were five galleons of the Duke of Florence, who encountered by chance the Turks great Armado consisting of 100 gallees, 14 galliots, and two Galleasses: The Admiral of which Ships did single 〈◊〉 herself from the rest, and offered to fight with the whole Armado alone; but the Turks durst not, and in their flying back, the Admiral sunk two of their galleys; and had almost seized upon one of their galleasses, if it had not been for 20 Galleys, who desperately adventured to tow her away against the wind and so escaped.  
For true it is, the natural Turks were never skilful in managing of Sea battles, neither are they expert Mariners▪ nor experimented Gunners, if it were not for our Christian Runagates, French, English, and Flemings, and they too sublime, accurate, and desperate fellows, who have taught the Turks the art of navigation and especially the use of munition which they both cast to them, & then become their chief Cannoneers; the Turks would be as weak and ignorant at Sea, as the silly Aethiopian is unexpert in handling of Arms on the Land. For the private humour of discontented Castaways is always an enemy to public good, 
Christian Runagates.  who from the society of true Believers, are driven to the servitude of Infidels, and refusing the bridle of Christian correction, they receive the double yoke of despair and condemnation. Whose terror of a guilty conscience, or rather blazing brand of their vexed souls in forsaking their Faith, and denying Christ to be their Saviour, ramverts most of them, either over in a torment of melancholy, otherwise in the ecstasy of madness: which indeed is a torturing horror, that is sooner felt then known; and cannot be avoided by the rudeness of Nature, but by the saving grace of true felicity.  
From the Fort and City Famogusta, I embarked in a Germo, and arrived at Tripoli, being 88 miles distant, where I met with an English Ship called the Royal Exchange of London, lying there at Anchor in the dangerous Road of Tripoli, whose loves I cannot easily forget, for at my last good night, being after great cheer, and grea●er carousing, they gave me the thundering farewell of three pieces of Ordnance.  
Tripoli is a City in Syria, 
The City of Tripoli.  standing a mile from the Marine side, near to the foot of Mount Libanus: since it hath been first founded, it hath three times been situated, and removed in three sundry places: First, it was overwhelmed with water: Secondly, it was sacked with Cursares, and Pirates: Thirdly, it is like now to be overthrown with new made Mountains of sand: There is no Haven by many miles near unto it, but a dangerous Road, where often when Northerly winds blow, Ships are cast away.  
The great Traffic which now is at this place, was formerly at Scanderona or Alexandretta, a little more Eastward; but by reason of the infectious air, that corrupted the blood of strangers, 
〈◊〉,  proceeding of two high Mountains; who are supposed to be a part of Mount Caucasus, which withhold the prospect of the Sun from the Indwellers, more than three hours in the morning. So that in my knowledge, I have known die in ●ne Ship, in a month's time, twenty Mariners: for this cause the Christian Ships were glad to have their Commodities brought to Tripoli, which is a more wholesome and convenient place.  
The daily interrogation I had here, for a Caravans departure to Aleppo, was not to me a little fastidious, being mindful to visit Babylon: In this my expectation I took purpose, with three Venetian Merchants, to go see the Cedars of Libanon, which was but a day's journey thither. As we ascended upon the Mountain, our ignorant Guide mistaking the way, brought us in a Labyrinth of dangers; insomuch that wrestling amongst intricate paths of Rocks: two of our Asses fell over a bank, and broke their necks: And if it had not been for a Christian Amaronite, who accidently encountered with us, in our wilesome wand'ring, we had been miserably lost: both in regard of Rocks, and heaps of snow we passed; and also of great Torrents, which fell down with force, from the steepy tops: wherein one of these Merchants was twice almost drowned. 
The Cedars of Liba●us.  When we arrived to the place where the Cedars grew, we saw but twenty four of all, growing after the manner of Oke-trees, but a great deal taller, straighter, and greater, and the branches grow so strait, and interlocking as though they were kept by Art. And yet from the Root to the top they bear no boughs, but grow strait upwards, like to a Palmtree ● who as may-poles invelope the air, so their circle spread tops do kiss or embrace the lower clouds; making their grandeur overlook the highest bodies of all other aspiring trees: and like Monarchal Lions to wild beasts, they become the chief Champions of Forests and Woods.  
Although that in the days of Solomon, this mountain was over-clad with Forests of Cedars yet now there are but only these, and nine miles Westward thence, seventeen more. The nature of that tree is always green, yielding an odoriferous smell, and an excellent kind of fruit like unto Apples, but of a sweeter taste, and more wholesome in digestion. The Roots of some of these Cedars are almost destroyed by Shepherds, who have made fires thereat, and holes wherein they sleep; yet nevertheless they flourish green above in the tops, and branches. The length of this mountain is about forty miles reaching from the West to the East: and continually, Summer and Winter reserveth Snow on the tops. It is also beautified with all the ornaments of nature, as Herbage, Tillage, Pastorage, Fructiferous Trees, fine Fountains, 
The Prince of Liba●●●.  good Corns, and absolutely the best Wine that is bred on the earth. The Signior thereof is a Freeholder, by birth a Turk, and will not acknowledge any superior, being the youngest son of the Emeere or Prince of Sydon, who when his Father revolted against Achmet, and not being able to make his own pari good, fled into Italy to the Duke of Florence: And notwithstanding that the elder brother yielded up Sydon, and became a pardoned subject to the great Turk: yet this the other brother would never yield nor surrender, himself, the Fort, nor the Signiory of Libanus: The old Prince his father after two years' exile, was restored again to his Emperor's favour; with whom in my second Travels, both at Leghorn and Messina in Sicily, I rancountred: whence the Duke of Sona that Kingdom's Viceroy, caused transport him on a stately ship for the Levant to Sidon: The Sidonians or Drusians, were first of all French men, who after their expulsion from jerusalem, fled hither to the borders of Zebulon and Nephtalim, now called Ph●nicia, as I shall make more clear afterwards.  
The most part of the inhabited Villages are Christians, called Amaronites, 
N●●torians.  or Nostranes, quasi Nazaritans, and are governed by their own Patriarch. There are none at this day, do speak the Syriack Tongue, save only these people of Mount Lybanus; and in that language the Alcoran of Mahomet is written. The kind Amaronite whom we met, and took with us for our best guide, in descending from the Cedars: showed us many Caves and Holes in Rocks, where Colliers, religious syrians and Amaronites abide: amongst these austere Cottages, I saw a fair Tomb all of one stone, 
joshaes' to●be.  being seventeen foot of length; which (as he said) was the Sepulchre of the valiant Iosh●ua, who conducted the people of Israel to the land of Promise.  
The Mahometans esteem this to be a holy place, and many resort to it in Pilgrimage, to offer up their Satanical prayers to Mahomet. I saw upon this Mountain, a sort of fruit, called Amazza Franchi: that is, The death of Christians; because when Italians, and others of Europe, eat any quantity thereof, they presently fall into the bloody flux, or else engender some other pestilentious Fever, whereof they die.  
The Patriarch did most kindly entertain us at his house; so did also all the Amaronites of the other Villages, who met us in our way before we came to their Towns, and brought presents with them of Bread, Wine, Figs, Olives, Salads, Capons, Eggs, and such like, as they could on a sudden provide.  
This Bishop or Patriarches house, 
The Bi●●●p of Eden● 〈◊〉 Liba●●●.  is joined with and hemmed in, within the face of an high Rock, that serveth for three sides thereof, the fore and fourth part being only of Mason-worke: Near unto which falleth precipitately a great Torrent over the saffinous bank, that maketh a grievous noise night and day: which as I told him, me thought it should turn the Bishop Surdo or stark deaf: But the homely and simple man (not puffed with ambition, and glorious apparel, like to our proud Prelates of Christendom) told me, that continual custom brought him to dispose upon the day, and sleep better in the night, because of the sounding waters. Where reposing with him one night, my Muse the next morning saluted Libanus with these lines.  
Long and large Mount, whose rich 〈◊〉 mantle, see!  
Affords three colours, to my wand'ring eye;  
The first are Corns, in their expectant view,  
Fair Barley, Rye, and Wheat; O hopeful hue!  
That quickeneth the pressed plough: and for to eat,  
It makes new toil, begin again to sweat:  
The second sight are Wines, the best on earth,  
And most delicious, in their pleasant birth;  
They're Physical, and good t'expel all sorts:  
Of burning Fea●ers, in their violent torts  
Which Senators of Venice, drink for health,  
There's nought so rare, but is attained by wealth.  
The third is amiable, O verdure green!  
For pastorage, the best that can be seen;  
Drawn nigh the tops, where fire-worn Cedars grow,  
And here, or there, some cooling spots of snow:  
Whence Rills do spring and speedy Torrents fall  
To lose scorched flowers, that burning heat would thrall:  
Here Herds frequent, whose pleasant toils do rest  
Of Mountains all, on Liban, only best:  
Where piping Pan, and Sylvan do accord,  
To lurk with Ceres, and make Bacchus' Lord;  
Pitched under silent shades; whence Eden Town  
These bounds for Paradise dare firmly crown:  
And last, to count these colours; here's delight,  
The fields are green, Wines yellow, Corns as white.  
About the Village of Eden, 
The Nestorian Paradise.  is the most fruitful part of all Libanus, abounding in all sorts of delicious fruits. True it is, the variety of these things, maketh the silly people think, the Garden of Eden was there: By which allegiance, they approve the apprehension of such a sinistrous opinion with these arguments, that Mount Libanus is sequestra●●●●om the circumjacent Regions, and is invincible for the height, and strengths they have in Rocks; and that Eden was still re-edified by the fugitive Inhabitants, when their enemies had ransacked it: Also they affirm before the Deluge it was so nominate, and after the Flood it was repaired again by japhet, the son of Noah, who builded joppa, or japhta in Palestina. Lo, there are the reasons they show strangers for such like informations.  
There are with this one, 
The Georgian● Paradise.  other two supposed places of the earthly Paradise; The one is by the Turks, and some ignorant Georgians, holden to beat Damascus, for the beauty of fair fields, gardens, and excellent fruits there; especially for the Tree called Mouflee, which they believe hath grown there since the beginning of the World. Indeed it is a rare and singular Tree, for I saw it at Damascus, and others also of the same kind, upon Nilus in Egypt: The growth whereof is strange: for every year in September it is cut down hard by the root, and in five months the Tree buddeth up a pace again, 
The tree Mouf●●●.  bringing forth leaves, flowers and fruit. The leaf thereof is of such a breadth, that three men may easily stand under the shadow of it, and the Apple is bigger than a football, which is yearly transported for Constantinople to the Great Turk; and there is reserved for a Relict of the fruit of the forbidden Tree: whence he surstiles himself keeper of the earthly Paradise.  
But if he were not surer a greater Commander and Reserver of a large part, of the best bosom of the earth, than he is Keeper of that Adamian Garden; his styles of the Earth, and mine of the World, were both alike, and that were just nothing, save only this, two naked creatures living amongst naked people: or otherwise, if it were to be kept or seen, certainly I would wish to be a Postilion, to the great Porter, the Turk, but not his Pedagog, far less his Pilgrim.  
The third place by these Chelfaines, 
The ●belfain Paradise.  is thought to be in the East part of Mesopotamia, near to the joining of Tigris, and Euphrates; where, so they inhabit: I have oft required of these Chelfaines, what reason they had for this conceived opinion: who answered me, they received it from time to time, by the tradition of their Ancestors: And because of the River Euphrates, and other Rivers mentioned in the Scriptures, which to this day, detain their names in that Country. Some hold, that Garden of Eden extended over all the Earth. But chose, it manifestly appeareth by the second Chapter of Genesis 2. 20. that this Garden, which we call Paradise, wherein Adam was put to dress it, was a certain place on earth, containing a particular portion of a Country, called Eden, which boundeth on the River E●phrates. To this, and all the rest, I answer, no certainty can be had of the place where Eden was, either by reading or travelling, because this River hath been oft divided in sundry streams: And it is said, that Cyrus, when he won Babylon, did turn the main channel of Euphrates to another course. But howsoever, or wheresoever it be, I resolve myself, no man can demonstrate the place, which God for the sins and fall of man, did not only accurse; but also the whole face of the Earth.  
Many ancient Authors have agreed with the opinion of Plato and Aristotle, constantly affirming, that Mountains, Islands, 
Violence of seas & waters.  and Countries, have received great alteration by the inundation of Rivers, and violence of raging Seas. Thracia, hath been divided from Bythinia, Nigroponti, from Thessalia: Corfu, from Epire: Sycilia, from Italy: The Isles Orcades, from Scotland, and many other Islands, and Countries cut through so in divisions after the same form. Wherefore the more a man contemplate to search the knowledge of Eden, and such high mysteries (appertaining only to the Creator) the more he shall fail in his purpose, offend God, become foolish, and fantastical for his pains.  
But to turn back to mine itinerary relation, after my return to Tripoli, I departed thence Eastward, with a caravan of T●●kes to Aleppo, being ten days journey distant. In all this way (leaving Scanderon on our left hand) I saw nothing worthy remarking; save only a few scattered Villages, and poor miserable people called T●rcomanni, living in Tents, and following their flocks to whom I paid sundry Caffars who remove their women, children, and cattle where so they find fountains, and good pastorage: like unto the custom of the ancient Israelites: Which in their vagabonding fashion, did plainly demonstrate the necessity they had to live, rather than any pleasure they had, or could have in their living.  
They differ also in Religion from all the other Mahometans in two damnable points: 
The Turcomans opinion of God and the Devil,  The one is, they acknowledge, that there is a God, and that he of himself is so gracious, that he neither can, being essentially good do harm, nor yet will authorise any ill to be done, and therefore more to beloved than feared: The other is, they confess there is a Devil, and that he is a Tormentor of all evil doers: and of himself so terrible and wicked, that they are contented even for acquisting his favour and kindness, to sacrifice in fire their firstborn child to him: soliciting his devillishnesse, not to torment them too sore when they shall come into his hands: And yet for all this, they think afterwards by the mercy of Mahomet, they shall go from Hell to Paradise.  
In this immediate or aforesaid passage, we coasted near and within six miles of the limits of Antiochia, one of the ancient Patriarch Seas; 
Antiochi●●● the first Christians.  so called of Antiochus her first Founder, and not a little glorying to this day, that the Disciples of jesus and Antiochians were first here named Christians. Who (notwithstanding) of their grievous afflictions flourished, so that in 40 years they grew a terror to their enemies; who suggested by the Devil cruelly affected them with ten general Persecutions, under the Emperors, Nero, anno 67. Domitianus, anno 96. Trajanus, 100 Maximinus, 137. Marcus Antonius 167. Severus 195. Decius, 250. Valerianus, 259. Aureli anus, 278. and Dioclesian, anno 293 years. Notwithstanding all which Massacres and Martyrdom, yet this little grain of Mustard seed, planted by Gods own hand, and watered with the blood of so many holy Saints, (Nam sanguis Martyrum semen Ecclesiae est) grew so great a tree, that the branches thereof were dispersed through every City, and Province of the whole World.  
Before my arrival in Aleppo, the Caravan of Babylon was from thence departed, which bred no small grief in my breast: The Venetian Consul, to whom I was highly recommended, by the aforesaid Merchants, (having had some insight of my intended Voyage) informed me, 
Frustrate of Babylon.  that the Caravan stayed at Beershake on Euphrates, for some conceived report they had of Arabs, that lay for them in the Deserts, and willed 〈◊〉 to hire a janisary, ●and three Soldiers to over-high them; whose counsel I received, but was merely frustrated of my designs. True it was, they stayed, but were gone three days before my coming to that unhappy place.  
The distance from whence over land to Babylon, or Bagdat, being but six small or short days journey, the loss whereof and the damnable deceit of my janisary, made my Muse to express, what my sorrowful prose cannot perform.  
The doubts and drifts, of the voluble mind  
That here and there do flee, turn judgement blind:  
Did over-whelme my heart, in grim despair,  
Whilst hope and reason fled, stayed tim'nous care:  
And yet the grounds were just; my treacherous guide  
Did nought but cross me; greed led him aside:  
Still this, still that I would! all I surmise  
Is shrewdly stopped: At last my scopes devise.  
To make a Boat, to bear me down alone  
With Drudges two, to ground-changed Babylon:  
That could not be, the charges was too great,  
And eke the stream, did nought but dangers threat:  
My conduct still deceived me, made it square  
Another Caravan, O! would come there  
From Aleppo, or Damascus: till in end  
Most of my moneys did his knavery spend:  
Thus was I tossed long five weeks, and four days  
With struggling doubts: O strange were these delays!  
At last a Chelfain came, a Christian kind  
Who by my grief soon understood my mind;  
And told me flat, the Janissaries drift  
Was to extort me with a lingering shift.  
Come, come, said he, the Sanzack here is just,  
Let us complain, for now complain you must:  
He with me went, and for a Trenchman served,  
And told the Ruler, how my Conduct swerved:  
He's called, and soon convinced, and with command  
Forced to transport me back to Syria's land:  
I'm there arrived, and eftsoons made me bound  
For the Venetian Consul: there to sound  
My great abuses, by this Villain done.  
Which soon were heard, and eke repaired as soon:  
The Bassaw was upright, and for times sake  
He did me more, than conscience willed me take.  
My plaint preferred, he was in Prison laid  
And all my gold, to give me back was made  
Which he had falsely ta'en: where for his pains  
He had the loss, and I received the gains:  
For doubling his wrongs, done, to cross him more,  
I got my vantage, from his craft before:  
And for his ten week's fees, no more he had  
Than ●e, that's owner of a ditch-faln jade:  
Thus leaving him, I with the Consul bode,  
Full forty days, ere I went thence abroad.  
In the eleven days journey I had between Aleppo, and Beershack, through a part of Syria, the breadth of Mesopotamia, and Chelfaine, a Province of the same, joining with Tigris and Euphrates, and returning the same way again; I found nothing worthy of remarking save the fertility of the soil: 
Mesopotamia.  which indeed in Mesopotamia, yieldeth two crops of wheat in the year, and for a Bushel sowing, in divers places, they recoil a hundred again.  
The Country itself is overclad with infinite Villages, having no eminent Town of any note or consequence, except the City of Cara●●men the se●t of a Beglerbeg, who commandeth under him 14 Sanzacks', and 26000 Timariot. The people here are for the most part believers in Christ, but alas too silly, untoward and ignorant Christians: And yet though without learning, or great understanding therein, they are wonderful zealous in their profession, and great sufferers for it also.  
This barbarous Town of Beershacke, 
Beershack.  being situate on Euphratess standeth in the Chel●aines Country, and is supposed to have been Padan-aram, where Laban dwelled, and where jacob kept Laban's sheep, though some interpret all Mesopotamia then to have been called Padan-aram: from whence North-east, and not far hence are the demolished fragments of Nineveh on Tigris, whose very ruins are now come to ruin: The decays whereof being much semblable to that sacked Lacedaemon in Sparta, or to the stony heaps of jericho, the detriments of Thebes, the relics of Tyrus or to the final overthrow of desolate Troy. This Country of Chelfaine, is the place most agreeable with Scripture, where the earthly Paradise was once set, though now impossible to be found out.  
Mesopotamia is seldom watered with rain, 
Mesopotamia.  but by the nature of the soil is marvellous fruitful: It is bordered with Caldea, on the East: Euphrates on the South: Syria on the North: and Arabia Petrea on the West. This Aleppo is a City in Syria; the name of which hath been so oft changed by Turks, that the true antiquity of it, can hardly be known: It is both large and populous, and furnished with all sorts of Merchandise, especially of Indigo, and Spices, that are brought over land from Goa, and other places in India, which draweth a concurrence of all Nations to it.  
Here I remember of a notable obedience done to the Great Turk, 
A notable obedience.  by the Great Bassaw of Aleppo, who was also an Emeere, or hereditary Prince: to wit, the year before my coming hither, he had revolted against his Emperor, and fight, the Bassaws of Damascus, and Carahemen, overcame them: The year following, and in my being there, the Grand Signior sent from Constantinople a Show, and two janissaries in Ambassage to him: where, when they came to Aleppo, the Bassaw was in his own Country at Mesopotamia: The Messengers make haste after him, but in their journey they met him coming back to Aleppo, accompanied with his two sons, and six hundred Horsemen. Upon the high way they delivered their message, where he stood still, and heard them: The proffer of Achm●t was, that if he would acknowledge his Rebellion, and for that Treason committed send him his Head, his eldest Son should both inherit his possessions, and Bassawship of Aleppo, otherwise he would come with great forces in all expedition, and in his proper person he would utterly raze him and all his, from the face of the earth.  
At which expression, the Bassaw knowing that he was not able to resist the invincible Army of his Master, and his own presence, he dismounted from his Horse, and went to counsel with his sons, and nearest friends: where he, and they concluded, it was best for him to die, being an old man, to save his Race undestroyed, and to keep his son in his authority and inheritance: This done, the Bassaw went to prayer, and taking his leave of them all, sat down upon his knees, where the Show struck off his head, 
The Bassaw of Aleppo beheaded.  putting it in a Box, to carry it with him for Constantinople. The dead corpse were carried to Aleppo and honourably buried, for I was an eye witness to that Funeral Feast: And immediately, thereafter, the Show by Proclamation and power from the Emperor, fully possessed the son in his Father's Lands, Offices, Bassawship, and the authority of all the Eastern Syria, part of Mesopotamia, and the Assyrian Country; for this Bassaw of Aleppo is the greatest in commandment and power of all the other Bassaws in the Turks Dominions; except the Bassa, or Beglerbeg of Damascus; and yet the former in Hereditary power, far exceedeth the other; being a free Emeer, and thereupon a Prince borne: The force of his commandment reacheth to eighteen Sanzacks', and thirty thousand Timariot, besides janissaries, and other inferior Soldiers, which would make up as many more.  
This City is called in the Scriptures Aram-Sobab, 2 Samuel 8. 3. and Aleppo of Alep, which signifieth milk, whereof there is a great plenty here: There are Pigeons brought up here after an incredible manner, who will fly between Aleppo, and Babylon, being thirty day's journey distant in forty eight hours: 
Flying pigeon with letters.  carrying letters and news, which are tied about their necks, to Merchants of both Towns, and from one to another; who only are employed in the time of hasty and needful intendments; their education to this tractable expedition is admirable, the flights and arrivals of which I have often seen in the time of my wintering in Aleppo, which was the second Winter after my departure from Christendom.  
Syria hath on the East Armenia major: On the South Mesopotamia: 
Syria.  On the North Cilicia and the sea: On the West Gallilee and Phoenicia: in the Bible the Syrians are called Aramites, who were an obscure people subject to the Persians, and subdued by Alexander: after whose death this Country with Persia, and other adjacent Provinces fell to the share of Seleucus Nicanor; who also wrested from the successors of Antigonus, the lesser Asia. This Kingdom hath suffered many alterations, especially by the Persians, Grecians, Armenians, Romans, Egyptians, last by the Turks, and daily molested by the incursive Arabs.  
In my expectation here, and the Spring come, (being disappointed of me desired aims) I pretended to visit jerusalem in my backcomming; and for the furtherance of my determination, I joined with a Caravan of Armenians, and Turks that were well guarded with janissaries, and Soldiers; of whom some were to stay at Damascus by the way, and some mindful to the furthest mark. And for my better safeguard (being always alone which by all, was ever much admired) the Venetian Consul took surety of the Captain that he should protect me safely from thiefs, cut throats, and the exactions of tributes by the way, delivering me freely into the hand of the Padre Guardiano at jerusalem: Which being done, I I hired a Mule from a Turk, to carry my victuals, and so set forward with them. The number of our company were about 600 Armenians, Christian Pilgrims, men and women: 600 Turks trafficking for their own business, and 100 soldiers three Showsses, 
A Caravan of Armenians.  and six janissaries, to keep them from invasions.  
Between Aleppo and Damascus, we had nine day's journey, in five of which, we had pleasant travelling, and good Canes to lodge in, that had been builded for the support of Travellers; and are well maintained: But when we passed Hamsek, which is a little more than midway, we had dangerous travelling, being oft assailed with Arabs, fatigated with Rocky Mountains, and sometimes in point of choking for lack of water. The confusion of this multitude, was not only grievous in regard of the extreme heat, providing of victuals at poor Villages, and scarcity of water, to fill our bottles, made of Boare-skinnes; but also amongst narrow and stony passages, thronging, we oft fell one over another in great heaps; in danger to be smothered; yea; and oftentimes we that were Christians, had our bodies well beaten, by our couducting Turks. In this journeying I remember the Turk who ought my Mule, was for three days exceeding favourable unto me, in so much, that I began to doubt of his carriage, fearfully suspecting the Italian Proverb.  

Chi nri fa●iglior, che non cisuole,  
Ingannato mi ha, o ingannar mi Vuole.   

He that doth better now, to me than he was wont,  
He hath deceived, or will deceive me with some sad affront.   
But when I perceived, his extraordinary service and flattery, was only to have a share of the Tobacco I carried with me, I freely bestowed a pound there of upon him: Which he and his fellows took as kindly, as though it had been a pound of gold, for they are excessively addictted to smoke, as Dutch men are to the Pot: which ever made me to carry Tobacco with me, 
Pagan flattery  to acquist their favour, over and above their fials, more than ever I did for my own use: for in these days I took none at all; though now as time altereth every thing, I am (Honoris Gratia) become a courtly Tobacconist; more for fashion then for liking: The Turkish Tobacco pipes are more than a yard long and commonly of Wood or Canes, being joined in three parts, with Lead or white Iron; their several mouths receiving at once, a whole ounce of Tobacco; which lasteth a long space, and because of the long pipes, the smoke is exceeding cold in their swallowing throats.  
At our accustomed dismounting to recreate ourselves, and refresh the beasts, I would often fetch a walk, to stretch my legs, that were stiffed with a stumbling beast; wherewith the Turks were mightily discontented, and in derision would laugh, and mock me: For they cannot abide a man to walk in turns, or stand to eat; their usage being such that when they come from the horse back, presently sit down on the ground, folding their feet under them, when they repose, dine, and sup. So do also their Artisans and all the Turks in the World sit all ways cross legged, wrongfully abusing the commondable consuetude of the industrious Tailors. In their houses they have no bed to lie on, 〈◊〉 chair to sit on, nor table to eat on, but a bench made of boards along the house side, of a foot high from the floor spread over with a Carpet; whereon they usually sitting eating, drinking, sleeping, resting, and doing of manual exercises, all in one place. Neither will the best sort of Mahometans, be named Turks, because it signifieth banished in the Hebrew tongue, 
Turks are called Musilmans.  and therefore they call themselves Musilmans, to wit, good believers: where in deed for good, it is a false Epithet, but certainly for firm believers they are wonderful constant; and so are all ignorants of whatsoever profession: even like to the Spaniard, who in the midst of all his evils, yet he remaineth always fidele to all the usurpations, the Hispanicall Crown can compass.  
They never unclothe themselves when they go to rest, neither have they any bed-clothes, save only a coverlet above them: I have seen hundreds of them after this manner, lie ranked like dirty Swine, in a beastly sty, or loathsome Jades in a filthy stable.  
Upon the ninth day (leaving Cotafa behind us on the Mountains) we entered in a pleasant Plain of three leagues of length, adorned with many Villages, Gardens, and Rivers; and arriving at Damascus, we were all lodged (some in Chambers wanting beds, and others without, on hard stones) in a great Cane called Heramnen, where we stayed three days. Having all which time given us twice a day provision for ourselves, and provender for our beasts gratis; being allowed by the Grand Signior to all kind of strangers whatsoever, that come to Damascus with any Caravan; being a singular comfort and advantage to weary and extorted Travellers.  
Damas●us is the capital City of Syria, 
Damascus is called Sba●sma.  called by the Turks, Shamma, and is situated on a fair Plain, and beautified with many Rivers on each side, (especially Paraphar and Abderah) excellent Orchards, and all other natural objects of elegancy: That for situation, Artisans, all manner of commodities, and variety of fruits, in all the Asiaticall Provinces it is not paralleled. By Turks it is called, the Garden of Turkey, or rather their earthly Paradise, because of a fenced Garden there, where a Garrison of Turks lve continually keeping that Tree Mouflee, whereon they allege the forbidden Apple grew, wherewith the Serpent deceived Eve, and she Adam, and from whence the great Turk is also styled, keeper of the terrestrial Paradise.  
Some hold this City was built by Eleazar the servant of Abraham; 
The antiquities of Damascus.  and other say it is the place where Cain slew Abel, where indeed it is most likely to be so: for hard by Damascus I saw a pillar of Brass erected there for a commemoration of that unnatural murder of Cain executed upon his innocent brother. But howsoever I persuade thee it is a pleasant and gallant City, well walled, and fortified with a strong Castle, wherein the Bassaw remaineth: the most part of the streets are covered, so that the Citizens are preserved in Summer from the heat, and in the Winter from the rain.  
The like commodity (but not after that form) hath Milan in Lombardy: Their Bazar or Market place is also covered, so are commonly all the Bazars, or Bezestans' in Turkey: The best Carobiers', Adam's Apples, and Grenadiers that grow on the earth is here: near unto the Bazar there is a Moskie, called Gemmah, wherein (my Guide showed me) the Sepulchre of Ananias, and the Fountain where he baptised Paul: In another street I saw the house of Ananias, which is but a hallow Cellar under the ground, and where the Disciples let Paul down through the wall in a basket: In the street where they ●ell their Viano, my Interpreter showed me a great Gate of fine mettle, which he said was one of the doors of the Temple of Solomon, and was transported thence, by the Tartarians, who conquered jerusalem about three hundred and eighty years ago, who for the heavy weight thereof, were enforced to leave it here, being indeed a relic of wonderful bigness: And I saw also such abundance of Rose-water here in barrels, to be sold, as Beer, or Wine is rife with us.  
This Paradisiat Shamma, is the mother City, and most beautiful place of all Asia, resembling every way (the tectures of her Houses excepted being platform) that matchless pattern and mirror of beauty, the City of Antwerp. The only best Shables, or short crooked Swords, that be in the World are made here; and so are all other their weapons, as half Pikes, Bows, and Arrows, and Baluckoes of Steel, that Horsemen carry in their hands: their shafts being three foot long, their heads great and round, and sharply guttered; wherewith they used to brain or knock down their Enemies in the field. The Beglerbeg or Bassa of Damascus, 
The ●orces of the Bassas of Damascus.  is the greatest of commandment of all other Bassas in Asia: Having under his authority (as he is under his Emperor) twenty two Sanzacks', and they conducting under all the aforesaid three, forty thousand Timariot, or Horsemen, besides two thousand janissaries, which are the Guard of the Bassa, and Garrison of the City. His Beglerbegship extendeth over the greater half of Syria, a part of the two Arabiaes, Foelix and Petrea, Phoenicia, Galilee, Samaria, Palestina, judea, jerusalem, Idumea, and all the Northern parts of Arabia Deserivosa, even to the Frontiers of Egypt.  
The means of the preservation of so great a State, is only by an induced confidence upon the power, and force of those Timariot who as well have their pay and local grounds of compensation in time of tranquillity, as wars, to defend these Countries, from the incursions of the wild Arabs, which evermore annoy the Turks, and also Strangers: and cannot possibly be brought to a quiet, and well form manner of living but are continual spoilers of these parts of the Turks Dominions. That mischief daily increaseth rather than any way diminisheth. They taking example from the beastly Turks, add by these patterns more wickedness, to the badness of their own dispositions: 
Savage Arabian Robbers.  So that every one of these Savages, according to his power, dealeth with all men uncivilly and cruelly, even like a wilderness full of wild beasts, living all upon rapine and robbery, wanting all sense of humanity, more than a show of appearance: Whereby being combined to gether, do tyrannize over all, even from the red Sea to Babylon.  
Thus they in that violent humour, invading also these of Africa, hath caused Grand Cayro to be furnished with thirty thousand Timariot, which defend the frontiers of Egypt and Gozan: Leaving all the Turks at Damascus (save only o●r janissaries and Soldiers) within the space of two hours after our departure from thence, travelling in the way to jerusalem; the whole Armenians fell down on the ground, kissing it, and making many sincere demonstrations of unwonted devotion. At the which I being amazed stood gazing, ask my Trench man, what news? who replied, saying, it was the place where S. Paul was converted, which they had (and all Christians should have) in great regard. The place was covered with an old Chapel, and, 
More like some relict, of exstirped decay,  
Than for a monument, reared for the way.  
To blaze on Paul's conversion: yet it's true  
The work was done, even by the Christian jew,  
Or jacobine; a circumcised kind,  
Who bear to franks a most respective mind.   
Three days were we betwixt Damascus, and the East part of Galilee, which is the beginning of Canaan: two of which three, we encountered with marshes and quagmires, being a great hindrance to us: This barren, and marish Country, is a part of Arabia Petrea, coming in with a point between Galilee, and Syria, running along even to the South-west skirt of Libanus, which indeed in that place, far more than jordan divideth the true Syria from Canaan; this Petrean Country itself, devalling even down to the limits of Jacob's bridge, cutteth away the denomination of Syria, from this parcel of ground, till you come Eastward to the more laborious Plains.  
Through this passage, 
A dangerous way.  it is most undoubtedly a very thievish way; for as we traveled in the night there were many of us forced to carry burning lights in our hands, & our soldiers had their Harquebusses ready to discharge: all to affray the bloodthirsty Arabians, who in holes, caves, and bushes, lie obscured, waiting for the advantage upon Travellers: not unlike unto the Lawless Wood-Karnes in Ireland. This part of Arabia is called Petrosa, because it is so rocky, and some think of Petra the chief Town: It was anciently divided into regions Nabathia, and Agara, possessed first by the Hagarens, descended of Abraham and Hagar: It is also thought to be the land of the Midianites whither Moses fled to, and kept sheep, and Mount Horeb is here, whereon the Lord did show him the land of Promise.  
Divers of the Petrean Arabs, converse and dwell amongst the Turks; whom we term in respect of the other, civil Arabs. South from hence, lieth Arabia Foelix bordering with the Indian Sea; which is the most fruitful and pleasant soil in all Asia; abounding with Balsam, Myrrh, and Frankincense, Gold and Pearls, especially about Medina, the second City to Meccha: The other Towns of note are Horan, the chief Port of the South Ocean. And Alteroch, the only Town where Christians are in greatest number in that Country.  
Truly with much difficulty and greater danger passed we these Petrean journeys. 
Arabia Pe●●ea▪  Here I remarked a singular quality, and rare perfection, in the careful conduction of our Captain; who would, when we came to any dangerous place, give the watchword of S. joanne, meaning as much thereby, that none should speak or whisper after that warning under the pain of a Harquebusado. And no more we durst, unless he had stretched out his hand, making us a sign (when occasion served) of liberty, lest by our tumultuous noise in the night, our enemies should have the foreknowledge of our coming; and knowing also that the nature of a multitude, bred all times confused effects, without some severe punishment. Himself road still in the Vanguard, upon a lusty Gelding, with two janissaries and forty Soldiers, and the other four janissaries, and sixty Soldiers, were appointed to be the backgard, for fear of sudden assaults. Thus most dexteriously discharged he the function of his calling, not with insolency, but with prudent and magnanimous virility: for my part, I must needs say, the diligent care of that benign Caravan extended over me, was such, that whensoever I remember it, I am not able to sacrifice congratulations sufficiently to his well-deserving mind: yet in the mean while, my Purse bountifully rewarded his earnest endeavours; and notwithstanding, of this high conceived regard, yet in some frivolous things, and for a small trifle, he privately wronged me, which I misknew, as unwilling (knowing his disposition, and that my life hung in his hands) to be too forward too seek a redress. For often times an inconvenience is most convenient; and as the great corrupter of youth is pleasure, and the violent enemy of age is grief; even so are the inordinate desires of inconscionable strangers toward Travellers, who preferring avarice above honesty, care only for that part of a man which is his fortune, 
The Town of Sarepta.  whose friendship beginning only in an outward show, must end in the midst of a man's money; as who would say, such like were rather employed, as their employments rewarded, and therefore in unlawful things they must suck the honey of their own preposterous ends: And thus it fared with him, at the paying of my Tributes, by the way for my head, he caused me oft to pay, more than reason, to the Moors, Turks, and civil Arabs, receiving secretly back from them the overplus; which my Turkish Servant perceiving, made my Trenchman tell me, that I might be before seen therein.  
But such is the covetous nature of man, that with his covenant he cannot be contented, unless he seek otherwise, by all unlawful means to purchase himself an unjust gain: But the high respect I had of his other perfections, made me oversee and wink at that imperfection of avaritiousnesse in him; and especially, remembering myself to be under his protection, I always endeavoured my aims so, that in his sight I won extraordinary favour: insomuch, that in danger, or security, he would ever have me near by him, which I also craved, and strove to observe the points of his will, and my own safety.  
The obligation of my bounden duty, taught me to no other end, than ever to respect the benevolence of his his affection, and to suppress my own weak judgement, which could never mount to the true acquittance of his condign merit.  
But to proceed in my Pilgrimage, on the aforesaid third day, in the afternoon, we entered in Galilee passing along a fair Bridge that is over the River jordain, which divideth a part of this stony Arabia from Galilee. This Bridge by the Armenians, is called Jacob's Bridge; and not far hence, 
Jacob's Bridge▪  they showed me the place, where jacob wrestled with the Angel, and where Esau met his brother jacob, to have killed him being upon the East side of the River: jordain is scarcely known by the name in this place: but afterward I saw his greater growth, ending in Sodom whereof in the own place, I shall more simply discourse: between Jacob's Bridge and jerusalem, we had six day's journey, five whereof were more pleasant than profitable, in regard of the great tributes I paid by the way for my head, that at sundry places a●d into one day, I have paid for my freedom in passage twel●e Chickens of gold, amounting to five pounds eight shillings of English money: A journal tribute more fit for a Prince to pay, than a Pilgrim; the admiration only resting upon this, how I was furnished with these great monies I daily disbursed.  
April the eighteen day, according to the computation of the Roman Calendar, and by ours, March the eight and twenty, I entered in Gallilee, a Province of Canaan; this Country was first called Canaan from Canan the son of Cham: secondly, the Land of Promise, because it was promised by the Lord to Abraham, and his seed to possess: Thirdly, the land of Israel, of the Israelites, so called from jacob, who was surnamed Israel: Fourthly, judea, from the jews, or the people of the Tribe of judah: Fifthly, Palestine quasi Philistim, the land of the Philistims. And now sixthly, terra sancta, the holy Land, because herein was wrought many wonderful miracles, but especially the work of our salvation. It is in length 180, and in breadth 60 miles: yet of that salubrity of air and fertility of soil flowing with Milk and Honey that before the coming of the Israelites it maintained thirty Kings, with their people, and afterward the two potent Kingdoms of Israel and judah; in which David numbered one million and three hundred thousand fight men, besides them of the Tribe of Benjamin and Levi: It is most certain, that by the goodness of the climate and soil, 
Canaan greatly changed.  especially by the blessing of God, it was the most fruitful Land in the World: But by experience, I find now the contrary, and the fruitfulness thereof to be changed, God cursing the Land together with the jews, than the (but now dispersed) inhabitants thereof. Neither are the greatest part of these Eastern Countries so fertile, as they have been in former ages, the earth as it were growing old, seemeth weary to bear the burden of any more increase; and surely the two eyes of Day and Night, with the Planets, and Stars, are become neither so forcible, so bright, nor warm as they have been: Time from old antiquity, running all things to devasted desolation, making the strong things weak, and weak things feeble, at last it returneth all things to just nothing: and there is the end of all beginnings, and an infallible Argument of the dissolution to come by the day of judgement.  
As things that are, still vanish from our eye,  
So things that were, again shall never be:  
The whirlwind of Time, still so speedy posts,  
That like itself, all things therein it toasts.  
The jews are also termed Hebrai, or Hebrews from Heber one of Abraham's Progenitors, or Hebrae quasi Abrahaei: who at their descent into Egypt, were but seventy souls being the issue of jacob, and his twelve Sons. The posterity of which Patriachy, contained in bondage two hundred and fifteen years, till in the year of the World, two thousand four hundred fifty three: At which time, the Lord commiserating their heavy oppressions under the Egyptians, delivered them with a strong hand, and placed them here: which then was inhabited by the Hittites, 
The Holy Land.  Amorites, Perisites, and jebusites. Canaan is divided into five Provinces, viz. judea, Galilee, Palestina, Samaria, and Phoenicia: Some divide it only in three, Palestina, judea, and Galilee: It hath been by others also nominated in general, Syria, by which Calculation, they gathered all the Countries from Cilicia to Egypt under that name. But howsoever they differ in Descriptions, it is most certain, that at this day, it is only, and usually divided into these five particular Provinces: Galilee and Palestina, for the present, are the most fertile and largest Provinces thereof, especially Galilee, which in some parts, yieldeth grain twice a year, and for abundance of Silk; cotton-wool, delicate Wines, Honey, Oil, and Fruits of all kinds; I hold it never a whit more decayed now, than at any time when the glory of Israel was at the highest: This Province of Galilee is forty eight miles long, and twenty five broad, having Phoenicia to the North: Samaria to the West: jordan to the South: and to the East and North-East, a part or point of Arabia Petrosa, and the South-West of Libanus.  
After we had traveled a great way, along the Lake of Genasareth, which is of length eight leagues, and large four: where I saw the decayed Towns of Bethsaida, and Tyberias, lying on the north-side of the same Sea, we left the Marine, and came to Cana, to stay all night: in which we had no Canes to save us from the Arabs, nor coverture above our heads, but the hard ground to lie on, which was always my Bed, in the most parts of Asia: In the night when we slept, the Soldiers kept Sentinel, and in the day, when we Reposed, they slept, and we watched.  
This Cana was the town wherein our Saviour wrought the first Miracle, 
Cana in Galilee.  converting at the Marriage, Water into Wine: And is now called by the Turks Callieroes or Calinos, being a town composed of two hundred fire Houses: The inhabitants being partly Arabs, partly jews, and partly some Christian Georgians: the circumjacent fields, being both Fertile, Delectable, and plain.  
The day following, embracing our way, we passed over a little pleasant Mountain, where the Armenian Patriarch (for so was there one with them) went into an old Chapel, and all the rest of the Pilgrims thronged about him, using many strange Ceremonies, for it was in that place (as they said) Where Christ fed five thousand people, with five Barley loaves, and two fishes. And indeed was very likely to have been the place: the ancient Chapel, showing as yet some beautiful decorements, do dignify both the Monument, and the Memory of the Founder thereof.  
Continuing our journey, we saw Mount Tabor on our left hand, which is a pretty round Mountain, beset about with comely trees: I would gladly have seen the Monument of that place, where the Transfiguration of Christ was: but the Caravan, mindful to visit Nazareth, left the great way of jerusalem, and would by no persuasion go thither,  
That night we lodged in a poor Village called Heerschek, where we could get neither meat for ourselves, nor provender for our Beasts, but some of our Company for their supper, had a hundred strokes from the Moors and Arabs in that place, because the Christian Pilgrims had trodden upon the graves of their dead friends, which by no means they can tolerate: They made no small uproar amongst us, desperately throwing stones and darts, 
Caesarea Philippi.  till we were all glad to remove half a mile from that place; and the next morning we passed by Caesarea Philippi which is now so miserably decayed, that the ruined Town affordeth not above twenty four dwelling houses, being for ruins a second Town, to sacked Samaria, or another spectacle of time like to the now ragged Town of the Moorish Bethulia; it was built by Philip one of the Tetraches in honour of Tiberius Caesar, and now called by the Moors Hedarasco. Here was Herod smitten by the Angel, and eaten of worms, after the Sycophanticall people called his rhetorical oration; the voice of God and not of man. Here our Saviour healed the woman of the bloody flux, and raised from death to life the daughter of jairus: Here Saint Peter baptised Cornelius, and S. Paul disputed against Tertul●us in the presence of Felix.  
April the 20 day, about ten of the clock (passing the River Kyson) we arrived at Nazareth, and there reposed till the evening, providing ourselves of victuals and water: In this Town dwelled joseph, and the Virgin Mary; and in which also our Saviour was brought up under the vigilant care of joseph and Mary. After we had dined, the Armenians arose, and went to a heap of stones, the ruins of an old House before the which they fell down upon their knees; praising God: And that ruinous lump (say they) was the House where Mary dwelled, when Gabriel saluted her, bringing the Annunciation of Salvation to the World: I am fully persuaded, they carried away above five thousand pounds' weight, to keep in a memorial thereof: then did I remember of the Chapel of Loretta, 
A counterbu●●et for Loretta.  and told the Caravan, that I saw that House standing in Italy, which (as the Romanists say) was transported by the Angels: O, said he, we Armenians cannot believe that, neither many other assertions of the Roman Church; for we certainly know by Christians, that have from time to time dwelled here ever since, that this is, both the place, and stones of the House: Let Papists coin a new Law to themselves, we care not, for as they err in this, so do they err in all, following merely the Traditions of men, they run galloping post to Hell. The Patriarch being informed by the laughing Caravan of these news, asked me in disdain (thinking it had been an Article of my belief) if I saw that House, or believed that the Chapel of Loretta was such a thing: to whom I constantly answered, I did not believe it, affirming it was only but a Devilish invention, to deceive the blindfolded people, and to fill the Coffers of the Roman priests: Now thou bottomless Gulf of papistry, here I forsake thee, no Winter-blasting Furies of Satan's subtle storms, can make shipwreck of my Faith, on the stony shelves of they deceitful deeps.  
Thus, and after this manner too: are all the illusions of their imaginary and false miracles, first invented partly by monasterial poverty, then confirmed by provincial bribery, and lastly they are faith-sold for consistoricall lucre. In the time of our staying here; the Emeere or Lord of the Town sent six women, conducted by 12 of his servants, to an Armenian Prince, that was a Pilgrim in our company: to be used by him and others whom so he would elect to be his fellow labourers: 
Libidinous lechery.  Which indeed he did kindly accept, and invited me to that feast: but I gave him the refusal, little regarding such a frivolous commodity. He, and foam of the chief Pilgrims entertained them for the space of three hours, and sent them back, giving to their Conductors fifteen Piastres in a reward. Truly if I would rehearse the impudence of these whoors, and the brutishness of the Armenians, as it is most ignominious to the actors; so no doubt, it would be very loathsome to the Reader.  
Such is the villainy of these Oriental slaves under the Turks; that not only by conversing with them, learn some of their damnable Hethnick customs, but also going beyond them in beastly sensualnesse, become worse than bruit beasts: This maketh me remember a worthy saying of that Heathenish Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius, who in consideration of fleshly lusts, said; that although he were sure, that the gods would not punish him for the offence; yet he would forbear it, in regard of the filthiness of the fact itself: Indeed of a Pagan a noble and virtuous resolution, when such base and beastly Christians, these wretched Armenians, committed with these Infidelish harlots a twofold kind of voluptuous abomination, which my conscience commands me to conceal: lest I frequent this Northern World, with that which their nature never knew, nor their knowledge have heard hearing of the like: but God in his just judgements, that same night, threatened both to have punished the doers, and the whole company for their sakes: For we having resolved to travel all that night, and because the way was rocky and hard to be known, and perilous for Arabs; we hired a Christian guide named joab, and agreed with him to take us to Lidda, which was two day's journey. But before we advanced to our passage, joab had sent a privy messenger before us, to warn about three hundred Arabs (who had their abode on the South side of Mount Carmell) to meet him at such a place as he had appointed; 
A villainous plot.  giving them to know, we were rich and well provided with Chickens and Sultan's of Gold, and Piastres of silver, and that he should render us into their hands for such a recompense and consideration, as their savage judgement should think fit; according to the spoils and booties they should obtain, together with the miserable murder and loss of our lives. This being done, and unknown to us, we marched along, travelling faster than our ordinary pace, some on horse, and some on foot, for my pilgrimage was ever pedestriall: which our guide suspecting that by our celerity we should go beyond the place appointed for his treacherous plot, began to cross us grievously; leading us up and down amongst pools and holes, whither he listed; where many of our Camels & Asses were lost, and could not be recovered, because we all began to suspect and fear; which was the cause that the owners durst not stay to relieve their perished beasts.  
In the end, the Captain and janissaries, entreated him earnestly to bring us in the right way; but the more they requested, the more obdurate was his heart, replying, he was mistaken, and could not find it, till day light: upon the which words, the company was stayed, and in the meanwhile there came a Turk, one of our Soldiers unto the Captain, saying; he saw the Guide, before our departure from Nazareth, send a Moor before him, for what respect he knew not, 
A treacherous Guide.  being long at private conference. Whereupon, they strait bound him with ropes, on a horse back, threatening him with death, to cause him confess the truth.  
In the midst of this tumult, I having got sight of the North-star, (which seemed exceeding low to me) considered thereby, that the Villain had led us more to the Southward, then to the Westward, which was our way to Jerusalem: Whereupon I entreated the Caravan to turn our faces Northward, otherwise we should be cut off, and that suddenly: for although (said I) it may peradventure be, that we are three or four miles short of the place intended for our massacre, yet they missing us, will like ravening Wolves hunt here and there; wherefore, if we, incline to the North, (God willing) we shall prevent their bloody designs. To the which advice (being duly pondered) they yielded; and so I became their Guide, in that dark night, till morning: for none of them knew that Star, neither the nature of it. At last this desperate wretch considering that either by our vanquishing, or the enemy's victory, he could not escape, sith his Treason was revealed; began to beg pardon of the Caravan, saying that if he could have any surety of his life, he would sufficiently inform us, how to eschew these imminent dangers, for we were all in extreme peril of our lives; and not so much courage not comfort left us, as the very smallest hope of any relief.  
The Captain being distracted with fear, replied he would, and thereupon swore a solemn oath, so did the janissaries swear by the head of Mahomet, for the like effect: Which being done, he was untied, and confessed, that if we had continued in our way he led us, we had been all put to the edge of the Sword: and falling down on his knees, cried oft with tears, mercy, mercy, mercy.  
All that night we went with that Star, and against morning we were in the Western confines of Phoenicia, and at the beginning of Palestine, close by the Marine, and within half a mile of Tyrus. 
Tyrus is called Sur.  This sometimes renowned City of Tyrus, called now by the Moors Sur, was famous for her Purples, and Colonies dispersed over all the World by her Citizens; and once a Kingdom of great antiquity and long continuance. The most worthiest of her Kings, were Hiram in strict bond of Confederaie, with Solomon, and Pygmalion the brother of Dido, who built Carthage: This seat, giving way to the Persian Monarchy, was about the overthrow of Darius, beleaguered by Alexander: who had so much ado with extraordinary expense of men, money, and great labour to conquer it, being then separated from the main Continent, by the Sea, but now joined to the firm Land: and before you come to the City, there lieth a great bank of sand, where it is likely the Sea hath been in Alexander's time: Though now, as time altereth every thing, the Sea be fled from that place, which maketh that ruinous Town seem more desolate. At the break of day, I and certain Armenians went to visit this decayed Town, and found the most famous ruins here, that the Word for memory can afford, and a Delicious encircling Harbour, enclosed within the middle of the Town, fit to receive small Barks, Frigates, and Galliots: the compassing foreface whereof, being all of four squared Marble and Alabaster stones: the most part of all which Houses have stood on pillars of the same stones: the infinite number whereof may as yet be, 
The ruins of Tyrus.  (above and below the sands) perspective beheld. There be only some nineteen fire houses here, which are Moor's: and is now under the Emeere of the Drusians, who remaineth in Sydon. The East part of this Country aboundeth in Balm, Honey, and Oil, and was the Seat of Asher, of whom Moses prophesied, Deut. 33. 24. that he should dip his feet in Oil.  
Here these Egyptian Moors, for so they were first bred there: brought us a pillar lying upon the ground, of nine several colours of Marble, being one entire stone, and the length of it was twenty two of my measure, and eight in compass: Which said they, was one of the Pillars that Samson pulled down upon the Philistims at the hour of his Death. 
Sampsons' Pillar.  To whom I answered, that Samson died at Azath, the furthest South-west part of Palestine where he bore down the House of Dagon upon the Philistims: And I think the ancient Tyrians, said I, could not transport that Pillar so far hither: But they the more constantly affirmed it, and so did these Armenians that were with me confirm it also, some of whom, had been twice there before: yet howsoever it was, I brought home a pound weight of it, and presented the half thereof, to King james of blessed Memory.  
Here by accident, in returning back to the Caravan, I met with an English Factor, named Master Brockesse, who then remained at Sydon, eighteen miles from this place, and had been down at Acre about some negotiations: Who indeed eftsoons, and kindly took me into a Moorish House by the Sea side, and one of his acquaintance: where instantly we swallowed down such jovial and deep carouses of Leatick Wine, that both he and I, were almost fastened in the last plunge of understanding: Yet nevertheless, he conveyed me back to my company, and put me safe into the hands of the Caravan, with whom afterwards I divers times met with here at London: to whose kindness I celebrate the memory of these lines.  
But now the Sun discovering the earth, and the night banished to the inferior world, we were all encouraged, for the light of the day lends comfort: The Captain (sending back that false judas, for so was he sworn to do) sent a post to Tyrus for a new guide, who came forthwith, and brought us in our way to Mount Carmell, for by it we behoved to go; and in our way we met with the desolate Town of Sarepta nigh thereunto adjoining, where Elias was sustained in a great famine by a Widow, 
A corrupted Caravan.  whose son he raised from death.  
Great are the mercies of God, for as he hath made man an excellent creature, so hath he also endued him with two great powers in his mind: The one a wise power of understanding, by which he penetrateth into the knowledge of things: the other a strong power of dexterous resolving; whereby he executeth things well understood, for we having judged the worst, resolved the best: and by his Almighty providence were freed from that apparent danger, although the former day's whoredom, and unnatural vices, deserved a just punishment.  
This I intimate to all Travellers in general, that if they would that God should further them in their attempts, bless their voyages, and grant them a safe return to their native Countries (without the which, what contentment have they for all their pains?) that they would constantly refrain from whoredom, drunkenness, and too much familiarity with strangers: For a Traveller that is not temperate, and circumspect in all his actions, although he were headed like that Herculean Serpent Hydra, yet it is impossible he can return in safety from danger of the Turks, Arabs, Moors, wild beasts, & the deadly operative extremities of heat, hunger, thirst, and cold.  
Approaching to Moun● Carmell, and leaving it upon our right hand between us and the Marine coast, I beheld a far off upon the top of the hill, the place where Elias ascended to Hea●en, when he left his Cloak behind him to Elizeus his Disciple. This mountain is four miles of length, lying South and North, the North end bordering with the Sea, near to Acre, called anciently Ptolomaeis, and the South end joining with the borders of Samaria, through the which confine we passed.  
Leaving Samaria on our left hand, we entered into a fair Plain, 
Samaria.  adorned with fruitful Trees, and all other ornaments that pleasant fields afford; but no Village we saw. Marching thus about the declining of the Sun from the Meridian, we came in sight of two hundred Pavillians, all pitched in ranks; yielding the prospect of a little City, by a brook side of water: which being perceived, the Captain began to censure what they might be; and immediately there came riding towards us, six naked fellows, well mounted on Arabian Geldings, who demanded what we were? and whither we were bound with such a multitude; and if there were any Franks of Christendom in our company. To whom the janissaries replied, we were purposed to jerusalem, and that there was but one Frank with them: Upon the which they presently sought me, demanding Caffar, Caffar; that was tribute for my head, & caused me perforce notwithstanding of the resisting Caravan, and janissaries, to pay them presently for my life seven Chickens of Gold, seven times nine shillings sterling: And this is, because said they, our King is resident in these Tents, and therefore we have tripled his tribute: And yet were they discontented, because there were no more Franks in our company, for from the Armenians, they could not, nor would not seek any tribute, because they were tributary slaves and subjects to the great Turk: neithere also of any other Christians borne in his dominions, when they shall happen to fall into their hands.  
They returning back to their Prince, with the malediction of my heart, and the sorrow of a Pilgrims purse, we marching on in our way, that day we traveled above thirty four miles, and pitched at a Village called Adoash, being composed of threescore Moorish and Arabian Houses, standing in a fruitful and delicate Plain; and garnished with Olive, Date, and Figge-trees, which were both pleasant and profitable: where we found also good Herbs to eat, and abundance of Water to drink, and also to fill our emptied bottles: As we lay down to sleep after a hungry supper, on the hard ground, and our guard watching us; that same King of the Arabians came a little before midnight, 
The Savage Arabian King  with twenty four well horsed Runagates, and naked Courtiers, being armed with bows and arrows, and halfe-pikes, pointed at both ends with hard Steel; and asked for the Caravan, who presently awoke, and went to salute him, laying his hand on his breast, bowed his head very low; which is the usual courtesy amongst the Infidels and Christians in these parts: For they never uncover their heads to any man; and after some short parley, they sat all down on the grass. The Caravan presented his rude like majesty with water, bread, herbs, figs, garlic, and such things as he had.  
As they were thus merry, at this poor banquet, the awful King took the Oath of our Conductor, if there were any more Franks there then I; and he having sworn the truth: the King by a malignant informer, incontinently caused me to be brought before him; and staring me in the face, asked my Interpreter where were my companions? Who replied I had none: then said he, tell that dog, or Elishole, he must acknowledge me with five pieces of gold more, otherwise (making a sign to his own throat) I shall cut off his head, because (said he) I will not lose this night's travel for nothing: The which I being informed, and knowing that by no condition; 
Exaction of tributes.  there was resistance against such a scelerate Prince, gave it him forth of mine own hand, having consulted with my Captain before, and that presently with a half smiling countenance; which he remarking, told the rest, it seemed I gave it with a good heart and a cheerful gesture, and to recompense my outward behaviour, he drunk a great draught of water to me: thinking thereby, he had done me more honour than all the Chickens of gold I gave him now, and in the morning would do him profit or pleasure: pleasure they could do him none, for they were unlawfully and dishonestly got, and too delivered from the inward sorrow of my sighing soul; and no wonder, having spent two years great charges in Turkey, before this time, but that I should have been exceeding penurious of money, and thereupon desolate of relief and comfort.  
Truly this was one of the greatest tributes I paid for one day's journey, that I had in all my voyage, in Asia. There are two Kings in Arabia, the one who liveth on Euphrates, the deserts of Mesopotamia, sometimes in Arabia Felix, and in some parts of Syria: And the other was he to whom I paid this money) wandereth with his Tribes, Tents, and Bestial, one while in Arabia Petrea, 
Two Arabian Kings.  and Deserta, and sometimes in the Holy Land, as he findeth good pastorage, and fresh Fountains. These two Kings are mortal enemies: and if by accident they meet, they fight most cruelly, bringing damage, rapine, and destruction to themselves, and their followers: for it is a difficult thing in them to dominate their inordinate passions, being untamed Savages, and misregarders of civility, who continually contend to corroborate the malignity of their dispositions, with bloody and inhuman interprises. And yet all the rest of that night, after his return from us, we still expected some treacherous surprise, which made our Soldiers stand stoutly on their guard, and we Pilgrims to our vigilant and naked defence: For the Turks will not suffer Christians to carry weapons in all these Dominions, neither any where, where they command. And for all this great tribute, and night's danger of my life, here was my present resolution: 
The more I am beset, with dreadful snares  
Begirded round, in shelfie gulfs of wrack;  
And shipbroke left, on rocks of deep despairs,  
Where helpless care, with tort'ring thought me rack:  
Then stoutly stand I, hoping for the end,  
That time will change, and God will better send.   
And now by the way I recall the aforesaid Turk, the master of the Mule that carried my provision, and on whom in the journey I had bestowed the most part of my Tobacco: When I had no more to give him, and he suspecting the contrary, was counselled be his associates to beat me sound, and dismount my Victuals and Water from the Mules back, till I propined him with the rest. Which intention being by me understood; I forthwith run to the Caravan and complained: whereupon my friend was bravely belaboured with a cudgel, and my better safety procured: Thus was his former show of love quickly expelled, and an inward grudge suddenly conceived, for it was the smoke, and not myself he respected.  
Love's whirling fancies, mortals fond feed  
As marish roots dissolve, even as they breed:  
An humane creature, inhumanely taught,  
Is worse given to ill, than evil fraught:  
Things in themselves, be not so bad as ill,  
The cause exeem'd, corruption hath free will:  
Man's frail affection, is a cloudy mist,  
Whose vapours fall, and fog, as passions list:  
Bad counsel's worse, than nature ill applies,  
Weak judgement dulls, when fear in reason flies:  
Thus sad eclipsed, the dark eclipsed Moon  
Did change, ere mine eclipsed light was won.  
At last the Sunshine, of my silver day,  
Came crawling on, as Snails advance the way.  
The next morning, when the hopeful Aurore had foreshown the burning birth of glassy Thetis, and that Orient Majesty arising to overcirculate the earth, than marched we along in our way, and before midday pitched our Haircloth Tents round about Jacob's Well, 
Jacob's Well.  near the decayed City of Sychar in Samaria: This Province of Samaria, is now for the most part quite destroyed and overwhelmed with Mountains of sand: we found this ancient Well so wondrous deep, that scarcely all our ropes could sink our bucket in the water: The taste whereof was wondrous cold and sweet, and for Jacob's sake, the whole number of us drunk more of it, then need required: The fiery face of Phoebus declining to the West, we marched through a part of the fields of Basan, of which Og was last King, a man of such a large proportion, that his bed being made of iron, was nine Cubits long, and four broad: and all that afternoon we had exceeding pleasant travelling; and at night we encamped by Lydda on the fields: Lydda is not above ten miles from the ruinous Town of Caesarea by the Sea side, and is now called by the Turks and Moors Alferron, being a Village only of sixteen Moorish Houses. Here Peter healed the man sick of the palsy.  
The Towns situated by the Sea side in Phoenicia, 
The Seaport Towns of the Holy Land.  Palestine, and judea, are these: Sydon which standeth in the Borders of Zebulon, and Nephtalim, or Phoenicia, being a goodly City, and well peopled; and is governed by the Emeere, or Prince of the Drusians: who being the offspring of the Christians, which under the Conduct of Godfrey Duke of Bulloine, descended into these parts, do still maintain their liberty against the Turks: The Signior whereof being threatened by the Great Turk, fled to Cosmus Duke of Florence, Anno 1612, leaving his two Sons behind him, the eldest to keep Sydon, and the younger to remain in a strong Fortress, on the West end of Mount Libanus: The e●der brother forthwith yielded to the Great Turk, the Signory of his Lands, but the younger would never do it, and so retaineth absolutely the Country of Libanus to this day, making himself thereupon a mountainous Monarchal Prince. Tyrus, which is miserably brought to ruin: Acre or Acon, that hath yet some indifferent trade of Merchandise, called formerly Ptolomeis': Caipha, called commonly Castello Pellegrino, which hath nothing but the remnants of an ancient Abbey: Caesarea, who reserveth but only the memory of ruins, for there is no Hospitality in it, except it be to savage Moors: joppa or japhta, is a Seaport of small Barks, but the decayed Town containeth not one dwelling House, save only a high Tower, which defendeth the Port from Cursares: Here jonah took ship to fly from God: Here Peter raised Tabytha or Dorcas, from death to life: and where he lodging at the House of Simon the Tanner, was in a Vision taught the conversion of the Gentiles. And Barutis famous for so many Christian Armies that have besieged it, is now composed of 800 firehouses: Lying North-east of Sydon under Mount Libanus, formerly called julia Foelix, nigh unto which (as fabulous stories report) Saint George delivered the King's Daughter by killing the Dragon. It is also thought to be within Canaan, standing in the Frontier of Phoenicia, and is the b●st inhabited place of all the Holy Land, Sydon and Ier●salem excepted.  
Saturday morning before the break of day, setting forward from Lydda, through the curling plains of fat-faced Palestine, scarcely were we well advanced in our way, till we were beset with more than three hundred Arabs, who sent us from shrubby heights an unexpected shower of Arrows, to the great annoyance of all our Company: 
A dreadful conflict.  For if it had not been, that our Soldiers shot off their Guns on a sudden, and stood manly also to it, with their Bows and Arrows for our defence, we had then miserably, in the midst of their ravenous fury perished. But the nature of the Arabs is not unlike to the jackals: For when any of them hear the shot of a Harquebuse, they presently turn back with such speed, as if the Fiends of the infernal Court were broken loose at their heels.  
In that momentany conflict, on our side there were killed nine Women, five Men, and about thirty persons deadly wounded, which to our worthy Armenian Captain, and to the rest of our Heathenish Conductors bred no small grief: the mourning noise among the multitude, being also wondrous pitiful. Till bright day came, we stayed still in that same place, (expecting the dangerous mutability of our austere fortune) and at our departure thence, we buried the slain people in deep graves, whereby jackals should not open up their graves, to eat their Corpses: for such is the nature of these cruel beasts, that they only love to live on man's flesh: these ravenous beasts (as is thought) are engendered of a Fox and a Wolf.  
Proceeding in our journey, we entered about two of the clock in the afternoon, in the hilly Country of judea, having two of their courses to jerusalem, which is about twenty English miles: leaving Rhama on our right hand, which containeth some two hundred dwelling houses of one story high, and ten miles distant from joppa, from which it lieth in the way to jerusalem: Here remaineth the Dragoman, a Christian, who receiveth and conveyeth the Pilgrims to jerusalem, which land at joppa, each Pilgrim paying seven Chickens of gold, is furnished with an Ass to ride on, all the way tributes, at going and coming being discharged by their Conductor, to whom they resign this tributary money.  
Rhama is a Town inhabited by Christians, 
The Town of Rhama.  Arabs, and Moors: not black Moors, as the Africans be, but they are called Mori, which are a kind of Egyptians, and not naturally black, but Sunne-burnt with the parching heat. The whole Territory of Canaan, is inhabited with these Moors, some Turks, civil Arabs, and a few Christians, and scattered jews. The Arabians are for the most part Thiefs and Robbers; the Moors cruel, and uncivil, ha●ing Christians to the Death: the Turks are the ill best of all the three, yet all sworn enemies to Christ. But when they know how to make any gain by strangers, O what a dissimulate ostentation shall appear in these detestable Villains, whose outsides only they seem to affect, but entirely the insides of their purses? and that is their aim, and forcible end: wherefore they both toil with all, and conduct strangers through many perils, as eminent to themselves, as accessary unto our inevitable destinies: Time discussing all, and money overmastering time; for Coin is the thing they must have, though necessity sometimes may not spare it.  
About four of the clock before night, we arrived at Berah, 
Beersheba.  called of old Beersheba, being eleven miles distant from jerusalem. Having a little reposed there, giving our Camels, Mules, and Asses some provender, but could get nothing for ourselves, from these despiteful Moors, (for what we carried with us, was all spent) except a little Water: We embraced our Mountainous way, as cheerfully as we could, for we were exceeding faint, and traveled that day above forty three miles; whereby we might arrive at jerusalem before the Gates were shut, sustaining great drought, burning heat, pinching hunger, and not a few other the like inconveniences.  
And now about half way between Berah and jerusalem, I, and two Armenians, advancing our way a flight shot before the Company. We ay say, unhappily rancountred with four Moorish fellows, driving before them six Asses loaden with roots, and shrubs of Wood to burn: who seeing us, they thought alone, laid hands upon us, rob us of our pocket moneys: whereat I resisting, one of them pulled forth a broad knife, 
● grievous anger.  and holding me by the Beard, thought to have cut my throat, if it had not been for one of his fellows, who swiftly stayed him.  
Well, they leave us, and following their Beasts, our Soul●iers instantly appeared unto us; whereupon we shouting, the Moors fled to the Rocks, and our foot Soldiers following, apprehended two of the chiefest, and brought them to the Captain: One of which had my money, which I presently received back again, but mine associates money, was with them that escaped: the Captain and janissaries, mean while carried the two Moors along with them, thinking to execute them at jerusalem. But their friends and neighbours following fast on Horseback, and on foot relieved them from the Caravan, restoring back again the two Armenians money. Whereat all the Moors were exceeding glad, and we no ways discontented: for if they had not been redeemed, certainly their friends and followers, who were thick flocking together, would have cut us all off, before we could have attained to jerusalem.  
At last we beheld the prospect of jerusalem, which was not only a contentment to my weary body, but also being ravished with a kind of unwonted rejoicing, the tears gushed from my eyes for too much joy. 
A joyful harmony.  In this time the Armenians began to sing in their own fashion Psalms to praise the Lord: and I also sung the 103 Psalm all the way, till we arrived near the walls of the City, where we ceased from our singing, for fear of the Turks  
The Sun being passed to his nightly Repose, before our arrival, we found the Gates locked, and the Keys carried up to the Bashaw in the Castle; which bred a common sorrow in the company, being all both hungry, and weary: yet the Caravan entreated earnestly the Turks within, to give us over the Walls, some victuals for our money, showing heavily the necessity we had thereof, but they would not, neither durst attempt such a thing. In this time the Guardian of the Monastery of Cordeleirs, who remaineth there to receive Travellers of Christendom, who having got news of our late arrival, came and demanded of the Caravan, if any Frankes of Europe were in his Society, and he said, only one. Then the Guardian called me, and asked of what nation I was of, and when I told him, he seemed to be exceeding glad: yet very sorrowful for our misfortune.  
He having known my distress, 
A dear night's Supper.  returned, and sent two Friars to me with Bread, Wine, and Fishes, which they let over the Wall (as they thought in a secret place) but they were espied, and on the morrow the Guardiano paid to the Subbashaw or Sanzacke a great fine, being a hundred Piastres thirty pounds sterling: otherwise both he and I had been beheaded: which I confess, was a dear bought supper to the grey Friars; and no less almost to me, being both in danger of my Life for starving, and then for receiving of food, therefore suspected for a traitor: for the Turks alleged, he had taken in munition from me, and the other Christians, to betray the City: this they do oft, for a lesser fault than that was, only to get Bribes and money from the Grey Friars which daily stand in fear of their lives.  
Anno 1612, upon Palme-Sunday in the morning, we entered into jerusalem, and at the Gate we were particularly searched, to the effect we carried in no Furniture of Arms, nor powder with us, and the poor Armenians (notwithstanding they are slaves to Turks) behoved to render their weapons to the Keepers, such is the fear they have of Christians. And my name was written up in the Clerks Book at the Port, that my tribute for the Gate, and my seeing of the Sepulchre, might be paid at one time together, before my final departure thence.  
The Gates of the City are of iron outwardly, and above each Gate are brazen Ordnance planted, for their defence.  
Having taken my leave of the Caravan, 
A foolish Ceremony.  and the Company, who went to lodge with their own Patriarch, I was met and received with the Guardian, and twelve Friars upon the streets, each of them carrying in their hands a burning wax Candle, and one for me also: who received me joyfully, and singing all the way to their Monastery, Te Deum Laudamus, they mightily rejoiced, that a Christian had come from such a far Country as Scotia, to visit jerusalem.  
Where being arrived, they forthwith brought me to a Room, and there the Guardian washed my right foot with water, and his Vicar my left: and done, they kissed my feet, so did also all the twelve Friars that stood by: But when they knew afterward that I was no Popish Catholic, it sore repent them of their labour. I found here ten Frankes newly come the nearest way from Venice hither, six of them were Germane, noble Gentlemen, and they also good Protestants, who were wonderful glad to hear me tell the Guardian flatly in his face, I was no Roman Catholic, nor never thought to be: The other four Frankes were Frenchmen, two of them Parisians old men, the other two of Provance, all four being Papists: with nine other Commercing Frankes, also that dwelled in Syria and Cyprus, most of them being Venetians, who were all glad of me, showing themselves so kind, so careful, so loving, and so honourable in all respects, that they were as kind Gentlemen as ever I met withal, especially the Germains: Such is the love of strangers; when they meet in foreign and remote places. They had also in high respect the adventures of my half years travail, East, and beyond jerusalem: troubling me all the while we were together, to show them the rare Discourses of my long two years survey of Turkey, but especially of my furthest sights in the East of Asia: and were always in admiration that I had no fellow Pilgrim, in my long Peregrination.   

The sixth Part.  
NOw come my swift paced feet to Zion's seat,  
And fair Jerusalem: here to relate  
Her sacred Monuments, and those sweet places,  
Were filled with Prophets, and Apostles faces:  
Christ's Crib at Bethleem, and Mary's Cave,  
Calver, and Golgotha, the Holy Grave:  
Deep Adraes' valley, Hebron's Patriarched Tomb,  
Sunk Lazars pit, whence he rose from earth's womb:  
Judeas' bounds, and Deserts; that smoking Lake  
Which orient folks do still for Sodom take.  
Thence viewed I Jordan, and his mooddy streams,  
Whence I a Rod did bring to Royal James.  
The lump fallen Jericho, and th' Olive Mount,  
With Gethesamaine, where Christ to pray was wont:  
The Arabian Deserts, than Egypt land  
I toiling saw with Nilus' swelling strand:  
Where for discourse the seventh Part shall thee show  
What thou mayst learn, and what by sight I know,  
Of matchless Egypt; and her unmatched bounds,  
That twice a year, in growth of grain abounds.  
IErusalem, is now called by the Turks Kuddish, which is in their Language, a Holy City: It was first called Moriah, of Moria, one of the seven heads of Zion, where Abraham would have sacrificed Isaac, Gen. 22. 2. and upon his offering it was called jerusalem, 
jerusalem's antiquity.  Genes. 14. 18. It was also named Salem, where Sem, or Melchisedeck dwelled: and jerusalem was also called jebus, 2 same. 24. 16. And it is the place where Solomon was commanded to build the Temple, 2 Chron. 3. 1. which afterward was termed Hieron Salomonis, whence came by corruption, that word Hieros●lyma. David, also in the Psalms gave it divers names. And jerusalem in the Arabic Tongue is also called Beyt almo kadas: Beyt signifieth the House, almo kadas, viz. of Saints.  
jerusalem standeth in the same place where old jerusalem stood, but not so populous, neither in each respect of breadth, or length so spacious: for on the South side of jerusalem, a great part of Mount Zion is left without, which was anciently the heart of the old City; and they have taken on the North side, now both Mount Calvary, and the holy Grave within the Walls, which were built by Sultan Selim: So that thereby the difference of the situation is not so great, though a part thereof be removed; but a man may boldly affirm, that the most part of this City is builded on that place, where the first jerusalem was: as may truly appear, and is made manifest by these Mountains, mentioned in the Scriptures, whereupon jerusalem is both situate, and environed about, who reserve their names to this day, and are still seen, and known by the same; 
The four hills of jerusalem.  as Mount Zion, Mount Calvary, Mount Moriah, and Mount Olivet. The form of the situation of jerusalem, is now like to a Hart, or Triangle, the one point whereof looketh East, extending downward, almost to the Valley of jehosaphat, which divideth jerusalem, and Mount Olivet: The second head or point, bendeth out South-west upon Zion, bordering near to the Valley of Gehinnon: The third corner lieth on Mount Moriah, toward the North, and by West, having its prospect to the burial place of the Kings of Israel.  
The Walls are high and strongly builded with Saxon quadrato, which adorn jerusalem more than any thing within it, the Holy Grave excepted. It is of circuit about three miles, and a half of our measure. As touching the former glory of this City, I will not meddle withal, nor yet describe, sith the Scriptures so amply manifest the same; concerning the lamentable destruction of it; I refer that to the famous Historiographer josephus, who largely discour●eth of many hundred thousands famished, and put to the Sword within this multipotent City, 
The triumph of Titus.  by Vespasian, and Titus his son; being the messengers of Gods just judgements; which by his computation did amount beyond the number of eleven hundred thousands. But it is to be understood, they were all at one time in jerusalem; but came up by turns and times, from the circumjacent Countries about by thousands, and as they were cut off so their numbers were aye renewed again as necessity required.  
This City hath oft been conquered by enemies: First, by Nabuchodanezzar, the Assyrian King: Secondly, by the greeks, and Alexander the Great, and also marvellously afflicted by Antiochus: 
The over throwers of jerusalem.  Thirdly, it was taken in by Pompeius: Fourthly, destroyed by Vespasian and Titus: Fiftly, it was re-edified by Adrian the Emperor, and won again by Gosdroes' the Persian King: Sixtly, it was overcome by Homor Califf the successor of Mahomet: Seventhly, by the great Sultan of Egypt, and by Godfrey du Bulloine, a Christian Prince: Eightly, by Saladine the Caliph of Egypt, and Damascus: Anno 1187. who reserved successively the Signiory thereof for a long time: And lastly, it was surprised by Sultan Selim, or Solyman the Emperor of the Turks, Anno 1517. joining the Holy Land together with Egypt to his Empire, who fortified the same, being by Infidels detained to this day: and by likelihood shall keep it to the consummation of the world, unless God of his mercy deal otherwise, than the hopes of man's weak judgement can expect. Whence truly I may say, that when fortune would change friendship, she dis-leagueth conditional amity, with the senseless litargy of foul ingratitude. This City is now governed by a Sanzack or Subbassaw, being placed there by the Bassaw of Damaseus, whose Deputy he is; the other being chief Ruler under the Grand Signior over all the Holy Land and the half of Syria. There is a strong Garrison kept always in jerusalem, 
The Garriso of jerusalem.  to withstand the Arabish invasions, consisting of eight hundred Soldiers, Turks, and Moors, who are vigilant in the night, and circumspect in the day time, so that none can enter the Town without their knowledge; nor yet go forth without their trial. This is a memorable note, and worthy of observation, that at that time, when the Cities of jerusalem and Antiochia were recovered from the Pagans by the means of Godfrey of Bolloigne; the Pope of Rome that then was, was called Vrbanus; the Patriarch of jerusalem Heraclius, 
A notable observation.  and the Roman Emperor Frederick: And at the same time, and long thereafter, when jerusalem was re-inthralled and seized upon by Saladine; the Pope's name was Vrbanus; the Patriarch of jerusalem Heraclius; and the Roman Emperor Frederick: After Herod the Idumean, son to Antipater, in whose time Christ was born: Archelaus, Agrippa Herod, who imprisoned Peter and james, and was eaten of vermin, in whose time Christ suffered; and Agrippaminor (before whom Paul pleaded) the last King of the jews had reigned, (being strange Kings) in the last King's time jerusalem was overthrown, and the Kingdom made a Province of the Roman Empire, Anno 37. After which desolation, the jews were over all the World dispersed; but afterward in a zealous consideration, were banished from the most part of the Christian Kingdoms: out of France they were rejected by Philip the Fair, Anno 1307. out of Spain by Ferdinand the Catholic, 1492. out of Portugal by Emanuel, 1497. out of England by Edward the fifth, 1290. out of Naples and Sycilia by Charles the fifth, 1539. Yet they are found in great numbers in divers parts of Germany, Poland, and in some Cities of Italy, as Venice and her Territories, Florence and the jurisdiction thereof, the principalities of Parma, Mantua, Modena, Vrbino, and their extending limits; and finally Rome, (besides her Ecclesiastical papacy) wherein there are no less than twenty thousand of them: They are also innumerable over all the Turkish Dominions, who so misregard and hate them, for the crucifying of Christ, that they use to say in detestation of any thing, I would I might die a jew; neither will they permit a jew to turn Turk, unless he first be baptised: And yet live, where they will, the most part of them are the wealthiest people in the world, having subtle, and sublime spirits. Now for the several Kings and Rulers of judah and Israel, beginning at Moses, the Judges of the jews were 16, of whom Samuel was the last, at which time, the people desired to have a King like unto other Nations.  
The Kings of the jews were three; 
The jewish Kings.  Saul, David, and Solomon; And the Kings of judah were twenty, Zedechias being last, in whose time Nabuchadnezzar destroyed jerusalem. Of the Kings of Israel there were seventeen, of whom Oseas was the last, in whose time the Israelites were carried captives into Assyria, by King Salmanasser.  
The Dukes or Governors of jewry were fifteen, 
Dukes of jewry.  of which joannes Hircanius, was the last Governor of judea, which descended from the stock of David. During the government of which Captains, after the Babylonian captivity, the Jewish Kingdom was plagued on both sides, by the Kings of Egypt and Syria: who slaughtered their people, ransacked their Cities, made havoc of their goods, and compelled them to eat forbidden flesh, and sacrifice to Idols.  
To reform which enormities Matathias and his five sons valiantly resisted, and overcame the impetuous fury of Antiochus Epiphanes and his Syrians: Whereupon the jews chose judas surnamed Machabeus for their Captain, one of the World's nine Worthies; who thought not of the line of David, was yet of the Tribe of judah.  
The Machabean Princes of jury were only four: 
The Machabean Princes.  joannes Hircanus the last who was slain by the Parthians. Of the Machabean Kings of judah were other four, of whom Hircanus son to Alexander the Tyrant was the last, who being disturbed in his Reign by Aristobulus his younger brother, with his sons Alexander and Antiochus, he was firmly established in his Throne by Pompey; and the other carried captives to Rome. But afterward Alexander and Antiochus escaping, the other by favour of julius Caesar, villainously abused Hircanus: The former was slain by Scipio, and the latter for his villainy was slain by Marcus Antonius, and the Kingdom given to a stranger, Herod borne in Ascolon of Idumea, as I formerly recited, of which strange Kings there were four.  
The Christian Kings of Palestine, beginning at Godfrey of Bulloine were nine. Guy of Lysingham being the last King of jerusalem, 
Christian Kings of jerusalem.  and was surprised by Saladine of Egypt, 1187.  
And lastly, or at this present time, the Emperors of the line and race of Ottoman, are Lords and Kings over jerusalem, and the crossed, or rather now cursed land of Canaan: In whose hands it is faster kept, than the seventeen Belgian Provinces, remain totally subject to the Spanish power.  
But to the intent the Reader may the better conceive, and plainly understand the Monuments I saw within jerusalem, and the circumjacent places of judea; I thought best to prefix the description thereof, by the several days as I saw them, not much condemning, neither absolutely qualifying them, but shall (as it were) neutrally nominate, and recapitulate these places, as I was informed by the Padre Guardiano, Gaudentius, Saybantus a Veronesen born; whence he, and every one of them every third year are changed and recalled back to Christendom, and other new Friars sent in their places: And especially the information of john Baptista, the Trenchman, who dwelled and had stayed twenty five years in jerusalem, and from whom the Friars themselves have their informations: for a stranger that understandeth not promptly the Italian tongue, which they usually speak, 
The ignorance of Travellers.  when they demonstrate these places unto us, he shall conceive ignorantly, dispose his judgement blindfoldedly, and knows not how to distinguish the circumstances and qualities of the things delivered. As I have known some of these Franks, in my company, simply mistaken, even when the exposition of every object was largely manifested unto them; and precisely declared such a thing to have been there, although perhaps the matter itself, be evanished and transported.  
About two of the clock on Palm-sunday after dinner, for all of us eat, drunk, and lay in the Monastery, each of us paying a Piastre a day for our diet, six shillings sterling, besides all other costs and charges: The Guardian I say, departed from jerusalem to Bethphage: accompanied with twelve Friars, and many other Oriental Christians, which were come thither to that Festival time, but I by no means would go, neither would the six Germans, but reposing ourselves on the top or platform of the Cloister, we stayed till their return: And yet from this place, we saw their backcomming from Bethphage as they crossed the lower and South side of Olivet; devalling downward, toward the Valley of jehosophat to ascend Mount Zion, for the greater performance of their foolery.  
The ridiculous Ceremony which that day they use, is thus: In an Apish imitation of Christ, at the foresaid Bethphage, there was an Ass brought to the Guardiano, whereupon he mounted (being as it were, the greater Ass, riding upon the lesser) and came riding to jerusalem, the people cutting down boughs of Trees, 
A superstitious ceremony▪  and also despoiling themselves almost to the skin, bestrewed the way as he road along, crying, Hosanna, Hosanna, the Son of David, blessed is he that cometh in the Name of the Lord: until they came to the South gate of Zion▪ where the Guardian thought to have entered, riding through jerusalem to his Monastery, with this shouting Convoy of six thousand Oriental Christians, because their Patriarches have not that liberty to do so, as this Italian Guardian: Notwithstanding, the clamour of the people incensed so the Turkish Garrison lying at this Gate, that they not only abused the poor Christians in their ignorant devotion, but they pulled the Guardian also from the Ass' back, beating him most cruelly, and all the rest of the Friars and Francke Pilgrims that were with him: Where at last entering the Covent, most of them came in groaning, and loaden with black and bloody blows; whereat I, and the other Protestants, did laugh in our sleeves to behold their foolish Procession, so substantially rewarded. At night after Supper, the Guardiano knowing that I was a Protestant, and also these other Germans, made an Oration, saying: You Pilgrims, who refuse to be participant with us in the Sacraments, nor will not adhere to our Masses, Processions and Ceremonies which we follow of the Roman Church: I would therefore entreat you (your liberty being here as much as mine, whereby you may do as you please) only to abstain from scandaling and mocking our Rites and ordinary Customs, which at this great Feast we must perform▪ To which we condescended, and promised to give no occasion of offence, seeing our outwards carriage in going along with them to see their customs tended no way to hurt the inward disposition of our souls.  
In the conclusion of his long Exhortation, he disclosed this admonition, saying: All of you Travellers must in general be endued with these three worthy gifts, Faith, Patience, and Money: Faith, to believe these things you shall see here at and about jerusalem: Patience, 
A flattering beggary.  to endure the apparent injuries of Infidels; and Money, to discharge all Tributes, and costs, which here (meaning in his own Monastery) and about this City must be defrayed. His Sermon he concluded like a Grey Friar, as indeed he was: for I am fully persuaded he little cared for our Faith, and Patience, providing, that our purses could answer his expectation, as truly we found the condign trial thereof afterward: making our Patience to startle, our Faith to overtop his lies, and our moneys to be a slave to his greed; and we left the last tributary spoils of two extortionable flatterers, Avarice, and Ignorance; with the which our Reverend Guardian was fully invested.  
Monday early, we Pilgrims went forth to view the Monuments within the City, being accompanied with the Padre Viccario, and a French Predicatore: the places of any note we saw were these: first they showed us the place where Christ appeared to Mary Magdalen, who said: Touch me not, for I am not yet ascended to my Father, john 20. 15. and this place by them is supposed to be the Centre, or middle part of the World. Next, where Saint james the first Bishop of the Primitive Church was beheaded: then the House of Saint Thomas, but that is doubtful (say they) because it is not yet confirmed by the Papal Authority: From thence they brought us to the place where Anna's one of the High Priests dwelled, and also the Tree to the which our Saviour was bound, whiles Annas was making himself ready to lead him to Caiphas; but that I will not believe, for that Tree groweth yet, being an Olive Tree. They showed us also the house where Saint Peter was imprisoned, when his fetters were shaken off his legs, and the prison doors cast open, and he relieved: And where Zebedeus the Father of james and john dwelled, which are nothing but a lump of Ruins.  
Thence we came to the decayed Lodging of Caiphas, 
Calphas' Lodging.  without the City, upon the Mount Zion, whereupon there is a Chapel builded, and at the entry of that little Domo, we saw the stone, on which the Cock crew, when Peter denied Christ. Within the same place is the stone that was rolled to the Sepulchre door of our Saviour, being now made an Altar to the Abasines. These Abasines, are naturally born black, and of them silly Religious men, who stay at jerusalem, in two places, to 〈◊〉 here at Caiphas House, on mount Zion, and the other Convent on mount Moriah, where Abraham would have sacrificed Isaac: They wear on their heads flat round Caps of a blackish colour, and on their bodies long gowns of white Dimmety, or linen cloth▪ representing Ephods: the condition of themselves being more devout than understanding the true grounds of their devotion, blind zeal and ignorance overswaying their best light of knowledge. They being a kind of people which came from Prester jehans' dominions.  
And within that Chapel they showed us 〈…〉 wherein (say they) Christ was 〈◊〉 the night before he was brought to the Judgement Hall. Upon the same side of Zion, we saw the place▪ where Christ did institute the Sacraments: and not far hence, a decayed House where (say they) the Holy Ghost descended upon the Apostles, and also the Sepultures of David, and his son Solomon: Over the which, their is a Moskie, wherein no Christian may enter, to see these monuments. For the Turks do great Reverence, to most of all the ancient Prophets of the old Testament.  
From thence we returned and entered in via dolorosa, the dolorous way, by which our Lord and Saviour passed when he went to be crucified, carrying the Cross upon his Back: And at the end of the same street (say they) the Soldiers met Simon of Cyrene, and compelled him to help Christ, 
Pilat's judgement Hall.  to bear his Cross when he fainted. Pilat's Judgement Hall, is altogether ruinated, having but only between the two sides of the Lane, an old Arch of stone, under the which I passed, standing full in the high Way: Here they showed us the place, where Christ first took up his Cross, and on the top of that Arch, we saw that place called Gabbatha, where Jesus stood, when Pilate said to the jews, Ecce homo.  
A little below this, they brought us to the Church of Saint Anna, where (say they) the Virgin Mary was born. And going down another narrow Lane, they pointed into a House, and said, he Dives the rich Glutton dwelled▪ who would not give to Lazarus the Crumbs of Bread that fell from his Table: this I suspend, amongst many other things, for all hold it to be a Parable, and not a History: And although it were a History, who can demonstrate the particular place, jerusalem, having been so often transformed by alterations.  
Th●s I must need say, with such lying Wonders, these flattering Friars, bring Strangers into a wonderful admiration, and although I rehearse all I saw there, yet I will not believe all, only publishing them as things in different, some whereof are frivolous, and others some what more credible: But as I said before I will make no (or very small) distinction in the Relation.  
From thence we came without the Eastern gate, (standing on a low Bank, called the daughter of Zion, that overtoppeth the valley of jehosaphat,) unto an immovable stone, upon the which they said St. Stephen was stoned to death, the first Martyr of the Christian faith; and the faithful forerunner of many noble followers. As we returned to our own Convent, they brought us to Mount Moriah, 
Abraham's faith.  and showed us the place where Abraham offered up Isaac, which is in the custody of Nigroes or Aethiopians: to whom each of us paid ten Madins of Brass, the common coin of jerusalem, for our going in to that place. And the other monastery that these Abasines detain, is on mount Sinai in the Deserts, where the body of S. Katherine lieth buried, which is richly maintained, and strongly kept by the Aethiopian Emperor: There are 200. Religious Abasines in it, and 100 soldiers to guard them from the incursions of Arabs, who continually molest them, because Mount Sinai standeth in the midst of that desolate Arabian wilderness, 
Mount Sinai.  and far from any civil or inhabited place; being distant from jerusalem above 70 English miles. Next they showed us the place where jesus said, Daughters of jerusalem, mourn not for me, etc. And near unto this, where the Virgin Mary fell into an agony, when jesus passed by carrying his Cross: Also, not far hence, we beheld the place, where (as they say) jesus said to his mother, woman, behold thy Son, and to S. john behold thy mother.  
Ascending more upward, they showed us the House of Veronica Sancta, and said, that our Saviour going by her door, all in a sweat to Mount Calvary, she brought him a Napkin to wipe his face, which he received, and gave it to her again: in which (say they) the print of his face remaineth to this day, and is to be seen at Rome. It is also said to be in a Town in Spain, and another of them at Palermo in Sicilia: wherefore I believe the one, as well as the rest.  
So out of one, if Papists can make three  
By it, they would denote Heaven's Deity:  
But O! not so, these three revolved in one,  
Points forth the Pope, from him his tripled Crown  
He woven these Napkins, lying reared his seat,  
For which this number makes his number great.  
As concerning the Temple of the most High, built by Solomon (the description of which edifice ye may read in the 3 of Kings) it was destroyed by Nabuchadnezzar, at the taking of jerusalem, Anno Mundi, 4450. Secondly, it was rebuilded again by the commandment of Cyrus' King of Persia, 
The Temple of Solomon thrice builded and destroyed.  after the jews returned from the Captivity of Babylon; but not answerable to the state and magnificence of the former: For besides the poverty and smallness of it, there wanted five things which were in the other: First, the Ark of the Covenant: Secondly, the pot of Manna: Thirdly, the rod of Aaron: Fourthly, the two Tables of the Law, written by the finger of God: And fifthly, the fire of the Sacrifice, which came down from Heaven, which were the Symbols and ●adges of God's favour and mercy shown to them, and their forefathers in his covenant of Love.  
This Temple afterward growing in decay, Herod the Great, (that killed the young Infants for Christ's sake, who suffered for him, before he suffered for them) built another much inferior to the first, and superior to the second. And although some Authors would have him but to repair the second Temple, yet it is most certain, he did even from the foundation raise its greatest beauty and glory. For this Herod the Ascolinite, was an Edomite stranger, or Idumean, who having gotten the Kingdom contrary to the Law of Moses; and created King of jewry by Octavius Augustus; 
Herod's the Idumean Temple.  and knowing these people to be offended therewithal, to procure their favour did build to them a third Temple: This was it, in which our Saviour, and his Apostles did daily Preach; and was set on fire by Titus the tenth day of August; on which day likewise the first Temple, was burnt by Nabuchadnezzar. And lastly, there is another great Temple builded in the same place, by Sultan, Selim Seliman, reserved by Turks, 
Selim Selymans' Temple.  and highly regarded, for that respect they carry to Solomon; near the which, or within whose Courts no Christian may enter under the pain of losing his head.  
This present Temple hath two encircling Courts environed with high walls, having two entires: in the inner Court standeth the Temple, that is composed of five circling and large Rotundotes, rising high and incorporate from the ground with round tops: The outward fabric whereof we cannot see, save on Mount Olivet, which is over against the City, and twice as high as Mount Zion.  
These are all the monuments which in one day, I saw within jerusalem; but as for Mount Calvary, and the Holy Grave, I saw them afterward, which in their own place shall be orderly touched. As we were spending that day in these sights, the Guardian had prepared one hundred soldiers, sixty Horsemen, and forty Footmen, to take with him the day following, for his conduction to jordan, and the Mountain in the Wilderness where Christ fasted; which is his usual custom once every year between Palm Sunday and Easter, returning again before Good-friday. These places cannot be viewed, save only at that time; neither may a Pilgrim go along with the Soldiers, unless he give the value of seven Crowns or Piastres (as a propine unto the Lieutenant, being forty two shillings sterling: and if the Traveller will not go to that charge, he may stay there till their return, which I would not wish him to do, if possibly he may spare the money, for the sight of Sodom and Iordans sake. That same night after supper, The Guardian demanded of us Travellers, if we would go with him to see these memorable, and singular things, upon the former condition: To whom we answered in a general consent, we would, and so paid our moneys.  
Early upon Tuesday morning all the Friars and Pilgrims being mounted on Mules save only pedestriall I, 
A Voyage to jordan.  and two M●les loaden with our provision of victuals; we departed from the City, about nine of the clock in the forenoon, keeping our faces Southeast, and leaving Bethphage and By●hania on our left hand, we had pleasant travelling for seven miles; but in the afternoon we entered in a barren and desert Country till Sunsetting: where at last we arrived at a standing Well, and there refreshing ourselves and the beasts, we reposed till two house's within night. After that the Captain had cried Ca●e th●anga, that is, match away: we set forward, being well guarded round about with our Keepers, because we entered into a dangerous way, and a most desolate and ●abulous 〈◊〉.  
In all this deformed Country, we saw neither House, nor Village, for it is altogether desartuous, and inhabited only by wild Beasts, and naked Arabians. Before we came near to Sodom and Gomorrah, by seven miles: (for so we behoved to pass by the East end of it, before we could arrive at that place of jordan which we intended) we I say encountered with such deep sandy ground, that the Mulets were not able to carry our Company through: Whereupon they all dismounted, wrestling, and wading above the middle part of their bodies, and sometimes falling in over their heads, they were in great danger of perishing, although the robustnesse of my body carried me through on my feet, relieving also divers times some of these Friars and Pilgrims, that were almost choked and overwhelmed with Sand, but not for lack of Wine. Even in the midst of this turmoiling pain, (the night being dark) the unwelcomed Arabs, environed and invaded us with a storm of Arrows, 
A fearful danger.  which they sent from the tops of little hard hills, whereupon they stood, for knowing the advantage of the ground they took opportunity to give the more fearful assaults; yet they prevailed nothing (although they wounded some of our soldiers) such was the resolute Courage of our valorous Defendants. True it is, that in all my travails I was never so sore fatigated, nor more fearfully endangered, as I was that night▪  
A little after midnight, these Savages leaving us, and we leaving our troublesome way, we accosted the Lake of Sodom, and marched along the marine shore above nine miles before we came to jordan. This Lake is called Lacus Asphaltites, it yieldeth a kind of 〈◊〉, named Bitumen Asphaltum; the which bituminous savour no living thing can endure. And now Mare mortuum, a Sea because it is salt, and mortuum or dead, for that no living thing breeds therein: and more properly for this cause called the dead Sea, because of itself it is unmoveable, such is the Leprosy and stability of the water. It is also called so, because if a Bird fly over it, she presently falleth down therein dead: And as Solomon reporteth of it, Wisdom 10. 7. it smoketh continually: from whence proceedeth filthy Vapours, which deform the fields, lying about for certain miles, as it were blasted, scorched, and made utterly barren: this smoke I take only to be but the exhalation of jordan: For this River falling into it, and there ending his course, the two contrary natures cannot agree; the one being a filthy puddle, and the other a pure water, as I shall more approbably record.  
This Lake is four score miles in length, 
The length of Sodo●s Lake.  and according to its intervalling Circuit, sometimes two, three, four, or five miles in breadth: yet the body thereof; bending directly South-west; keepeth a glassy course, till it salute the austere conspicuosity of the fabulous and stony Deserts: being compassed with the Rocks of Arabia Petrea on the South: On the North, with the sandy Hills of the Wilderness of judea: on the West, with the steepy Mountains of Arabia deserta: and on the East, with the plain of jericho. How cometh it to pass therefore, that the fresh running flood of jordan, falling evermore into this bounded Sea, that the Lake itself, never diminisheth, nor increaseth, but always standeth at one fullness: neither hath it any issuing forth, nor reboundeth backwards on the plain of jericho, which is one of the greatest Wonders in the World. Wherefore, as I have said, it must needs either exhale to the Clouds, or otherwise run down to Hell: for if it ran under the Rocks, and so burst in the Deserts, it would soon be known; but in all the bounds of Arabia Deserta, which betwixt this Lake and the Red Sea, extend to 300 miles; there is no such matter, as Brook, or strand, much less a River, neither hath it any intercourse with the Ocean, unless it run through some secret passage of the earth under the Wilderness, unto the Red Sea. And that is doubtful, although it may appear probable, in regard of Nilus, that runneth a hundred miles under the ground in the exterior Aethiopia: and divers other Rivers also after the same manner, obscuring themselves under Rocks, Mountains, and planures for many miles: which particulars, by my own experience, I could denote.  
But as for this River, the question may arise, whether ran it during the time of these five Cities of the plain now overwhelmed with Water; 
The doubtfulness of Iordans ending.  or where was the issue thereof. To this I answer, was not the hand of the Almighty, that reigned down from the Heaven's Fire and Brimstone to consume them, able also, to drown their situations and intervalling plains with water: Yes and doubtless yes, and the course of the River keeping still its former condition: And for modern examples, how many Cities, Mansions, and Stations, have been sommerssed with water: nay innumerable, and so remaining to this day, place, beauty, and being, all defaced: As now in Scotland near to Falkirk, rests the last and latest memory of such woeful accidents, and superabounding disgorging.  
It breedeth nor reserveth no kind of fishes; and if by the swelling of jordan, any fishes be carried to it, they immediately die. Although josephus witnesseth that in his time, there was an Apple grew upon the banks thereof, like to the colour of gold, and within was rotten, and would consume to powder; yet I affirm now the contrary: For there is not such a thing (whatsoever hath been in his days) as either Trees, or Bushes, grow near to Sodom by three miles: such is the consummation of that pestiferous Gulf.  
Divers Authors have reported, that nothing will sink into it, of any reasonable weight, as dead men, or carcases of beasts: but by experience I approve the contrary: For it beareth nothing at all; 
Wrong informations made.  yea, not the weight of a Feather, nor the pile of withered Grass, but it will sink therein, with the which my hands made sundry trials; and dare approve it to be of truth, in spite of the lying World, and all doting varieties of ancient Relations.  
The water itself, is of a blackish colour, and at sometimes in the year, there are terrible shapes, and shows of terror in it, as I was informed at jericho by the Arabian inhabitants there, which is the nearest Town that bordereth thereupon.  
This contagious and pestilentious Lake of Sodom, resembleth much (as may be supposed) that infernal Gulf of Hell: but in my opinion, I hold it to be the purgatory of Papists: for they say Limbus Patrum is near, or in the second room to Hell, which I think must needs be Sodom: for although it be not Hell itself, yet I am persuaded, it is a second Hell, having (as some report) no bottom. Wherefore I conclude thus, that since Papists will have a purgatory, I absolutely affirm, it must be such a purgatory, as the purging of Sodom and Gomorrah, which was with fire and brimstone, to their destruction.  
About the break of day on Wednesday morning, we passed by the ruins of an old house; where (as they say) S. john the Baptist remained, when he baptised those that came from jerusalem, and other Regions about; which is but the flight of an arrow from jordan.  
Approaching to the bankside we dismounted, and unclothed ourselves, 
The River jordan.  going in naked to the River, we washed us to refresh our bodies; our Soldiers lying a little off from us, as pledges of our lives and their own safegards, stayed as Bulwarks for our protection, & a connivall obligation for two repugnant defences: Time presenting the awful opportunity of both occasions. In this place, as the Guardian said, was Christ baptised of Saint john, when the Holy Ghost came down in a bodily shape, like a Dove upon him, and their was a voice from Heaven, saying: Thou art my beloved Son, in Thee I am well pleased. I saw also an apparent like testimony, of a quadrangled stone, lying on the bank side; where upon are engraven letters of Hebrew, Greek, Latin, testifying the same thing: and may be also conjectured, in regard of the ancient Habitacle, of that precursor, which is not far from thence.  
This river jordan beginneth in Mount Libanus, of two fountains, jore, and Dan, which run separated till they come to the lake Maronah; & hence it maketh one body, keeping his course, through the lake Genasereth, endeth in Sodom. The river Tiber at Rome, & jordan are not much different in quantity and colour; and not unlike other in their courses: For jordan falleth in the old Gomorah, and Tiber runneth through the new Sodom. A history of such evidence, as travel taught me by experience: For it is the Priest's confluence, which breeds in the Italians insolence: if I err, I will beg indulgence, of the Pope's aureat magnificence.  
The Rivers themselves are both of a muddy colour, and their quantity not far different from other, which jordan for greatness retaineth, and the length of their courses are much semblable to other. The water of jordan hath been transported to Venice in barrels, for that purity it hath; which will reserve unspoiled, both months and years, and the longer it is kept, it is the more fresher; and to drink it, is an excellent remedy for the Fever quartan or quotidian, being near in virtue to the Wine of Libanon.  
Considering the ancient reputation of this famous River, and the rare sight of such an unfrequented place, I climbed up to the top of a Turpentine Tree, 
A Turpentine Rod brought from jordan, and given to King james.  which grew within the limited flood, a little above where I left my company even naked, as I came from swimming, and cut down a fair hunting Rod of the heavy and sad Turpentine Tree, being three yards long, wondrous strait, full of small knots, and of a yellowish colour; which afterward, with great pains, I brought to England, and did present it (as the rarest Gem of a Pilgrims treasure) to his Majesty. But I remember in the choosing thereof an unexpected accident fell out: For I being sequestrate from the sight of the company, upon this solitary Tree, with broad obscuring leaves, the Friars and Soldiers removed; keeping their course towards jericho: but within two furlongs from jordan, they were beset with the former Nocturnal Enemies, who assailed them with a hard conflict: For I hearing the Harquebuse go off, was strait in admiration, and looking down to the place where I left my associates, they were gone; so bending my eyes a little further in the Plain, I saw them at a martial combat: which sight gave me suddenly, the threatening of despair: not knowing whether to stay entrenched, within the circumdating leaves, to approve the events of my auspicuous fortunes: Or in prosecuting a relief, to be participant of their doubtful deliverance. In the end pondering, I could hardly, or never escape their hands, either there, or by the way going up to jerusalem, leapt down from the tree, leaving my Turkish clothes lying upon th● ground, took only in my hand the rod & Shasse which I wore on my head; and ran stark naked above a quarter of a mile amongst thistles, and sharp pointed grass, which pitifully be pricked the soles of my feet, but the fear of death for the present expelled the grief of that unlooked for pain. Approaching on the safe side of my company, one of our Soldiers broke forth on horseback, being determined to kill me for my staying behind: Yea, and three times struck at me with his halfe-pike; but his horse being at his speed, I prevented his cruelty, first by falling down, next by running in amongst the thickest of the Pilgrims, recovering the Guardians face, which when the Guardian espied; and saw my naked body, he presently pulled off his grey gown, and threw it to me whereby I might hide the secrets of nature: By which means (in the space of an hour) I was clothed three manner of ways: First, like a Turk: 
The Pilgrims three several habits in half an hour.  Secondly, like a wild Arabian: And thirdly, like a grey Friar, which was a barbarous, a savage and a religious habit.  
The Captain at last entering in parley with the Arab's, by some contributing promises did mitigate their fury▪ for their compounded acknowledgement was to be sent them from jerusalem: Whereupon, we marching toward jericho, reposed ourselves under a cooling shade, and dined there on the Wine and provision which we carried with us.  
After Dinner we arose, and went to the House of Zacheus: (this was he who sat upon a Tree to see our Saviour as he passed by,) the Walls whereof stand to this day, the tecture being only demolished. This new jericho is now a poor Village only of mine dwelling Houses, inhabited by a kind of Arabs (which are in subjection under the Governor of jerusalem,) but I saw many ruinous lumps of the Walls, and demolishings of the old Town, which is a little from this distant, about a short quarter of a mile. Here I saw two most dainty kind of fruits, the one was a little less than an Apple, but more round: whose colour was like gold without, and within it was White as Snow, and sweet like Sugar. 
Two sorts of rare fruits.  I would gladly have eaten of them; but the Friars forbade me, saying they were the only pest of Death unto a stranger. The other Apple was like to a green Lemmon, long, and full of knots, of a reddish colour, like to a Melon; being both delicate and wholesome, of which we did eat to satisfy the natural appetite, and so did all our Soldiers eat of them excessively: their Tre●s growing high and green by a Brook side of delicate Water that runneth from the fountain of Elizeus. From jericho we set forward, in the way of the Wilderness; our determination being such, as to view the mountain whereon Christ fasted forty days: where arrived, being la●e, we durst not go up till morning, Wherefore we pitched that night by the fountain of Elizeus, 
Elizeus Fountain.  the Water of which, was of old naturally bitter, but by the prayers of that divine Prophet, was restored to a sweet taste: It is good for digestion, and harmless for health; and it is the lightest water the earth yields; having on the morrow filled a Boars skin of it, to carry with me to the mountain; I found it so light, that I had no weight nor pain in the bearing of it on my shoulders: notwithstanding, the way of itself was fastidious. This mountain is called Quarantanam, or Quaranto, being of height, by the computation of my painful experience, 
Where Chri●● fasted forty days▪  above six miles, and groweth from the bottom still smaller and smaller, till that the top is covered with a little Chapel, not unlike to the proportion of a Pyramede.  
There is no way to ascend upon this Hill, save one, which hath been hewn out of the Rock by the industry of men, experimented in Masonry; (which was done at the cost of Queen Helen) going up by the Degrees of forty five turns. In all our Company there were only one Friar, four Germans, and I, that durst attempt to climb the Mountain.  
Thursday early at the break of day, we six made us for the Mountain, leaving our Soldiers to guard the passage below, lest some straggling Arabs should have stolen after us for our Destruction. Where after divers turnings, traversings, and narrow foot passages, having come with great difficulty to the top, we entered first into a umbragious Cave, joining to, and under the Chapel, where the Friar told us, that in this place Christ did fast forty days: and here it was, where he rebuked Satan. The Chapel which covereth the top of this high and steepy R●ck is covered, and also beautified, with an old Altar: between the outward sides whereof, and the craggy face of this Mountain, two men may only go side to side: Here we di●ed and refreshed ourselves with water that I carried on my back hither: From which place we saw the most part of all the Holy Land, except the North parts of judea, Palestine, and Phoenicia, and a great way in the two Arabiaes, Petrea, and Deserta, and all the length of jordan, even from Sodom to Maronah.  
At last in our Return and fearful descending, there would none of us go down foremost: For although the Friar led us freely upwards, yet first downward for his life he durst not go: and that because at the narrow end of every turning, there was aye between the upper and the lower passage, about my height, and some were twice my height, of the flat face of the Rock, whereon there was nothing but dimples and holes to receive our feet, which in descending was perilous. 
Dreadful danger in descending the Quarantaram.  Now the greatest danger, at every turn, was in the down going of the foremost, who was to receive them all, one by one, and foot their feet in the shallow dimples: of which if any of them had miss, his sliding down had miscarried them both over the Rock.  
Now for the noble Germans sake, two of whom were great Barons, Signior Strowse, and Signior Crushen, and borne Vassals to the marquis of Hanspauch, I resolved to embrace the danger: Where down I went, receiving every one of them, at every turn, first leading their feet by my hands, and then by inveloping them with mine arms: Well, having past half way downwards, we came to the most scurrile and timorous Descent of the whole passage, where with much difficulty, I set safe the four Germans in our narrow Road hewn ●ut of the craggy Hill; and then was to receive the Friar: Whence he coming down from above, with his belly and face to the Rock, holding his hands grumbling above, the fellow fell on trembling; and as I was placing his feet in the holes, distempered fear brought him down upon me with a rushling hurl: Whereupon strait I mainly closed with my left arm his body fast to the Rock, keeping strongly my right shoulder to the same place: For I could not have saved myself, and letting him fall, but he would have caught me headlong with him, over the Rock: And yet the Germans cried still to me, Lascia ti quel furfanto cascar alla fondo conil Diavolo, esalva caro fratello la vita vostra, viz. Let that Villain fall to the ground with the Devil, and save, O dear brother, your own life: But I neither would nor durst: at last his fear, by my encouragement having left him, I suffered him to slide softly down between my arm and the Ro●k, to the solid path: Where by and by, he fell down upon his knees, and gave me a thousand blessings, vowing for this, he would do me a great good deed before I left jerusalem.  
At last towards the afternoon, we safely arrived at the foot of the Mountain, and having saluted the Guardian, and all the rest, who then were ready to take journey, the Friar told his Reverence how I had saved his life: Whereupon the Guardian, and the other Friars, did embrace me kindly in their arms, giving me many earnest and loving thanks.  
And now the Soldiers and we being advanced in our Way, as we returned to jerusalem, we marched by an old Ruinous Abbey, 
Saint Ierom● Abbey.  where (say they) Saint Jerome dwelled, and was fed there by wild Lions: Having travailed sore and hard that afternoon, we arrived at jerusalem an hour within night, for the Gate was kept open a purpose for us and our Guard: and entering our Monastery, we supped, and rested ourselves till midnight; having marched that half day, more than 34 miles. A little before midnight, the Guardian and the Friars, were making themselves ready to go with us to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, called Sancto Salvatore; where we were to stay Good-friday and Saturday, and Easter-Sunday till midnight: They took their Cook with them also to dress our Diet, carrying Wine, Bread, Fishes, and Fruits hither in abundance. Mean while, a jew, the Trench-man of the Turkish Sanzacke, came to the Monastery, and received from every one of us Pilgrims, first two Chequins of Gold for our several heads, and entry at jerusalem: and then nine Chequins a piece, for our in going to the Holy Grave; and a Chickeen of gold a man, to himself the jew, as being due to his place.  
Thus was there twelve Chequins from each of us dispatched for the Turk: 
Our tributes for the Holy Grave.  And last one, and all of us, behoved to give to the Guardian two Chequins also for the Wax Candles and Fooleries he was to spend in their idle and superstitious Ceremonies, these three aforesaid nights: which amounted in all to every one of us, to fourteen Chequins of gold, six pounds six shillings sterling. So that in the whole from the six Germans, four Frenchmen, and nine commercing Franks in Cyprus and Syria, Venetians and Ragusans, and from myself, the sum arose for this night's labour to a hundred and twenty six pounds sterling.  
This done, and at full midnight we came to the Church, where we found twelve Venerable like Turks, ready to receive us, sitting in the Porch without the Door; who forthwith opened at random the two great Brazen halves of the Door, and received us very respectively: We being within, the door made fast, and the Turks returned to the Castle, the first place of any note we saw, was the place of Unction, which is a four squared stone; enclosed about with an iron Revele, on which (say they) the dead body of our Saviour lay, and was imbalmed; after he was taken from the Cross, whiles joseph of Arimathea, was preparing that new Sepulchre for him wherein never man lay: from thence we came to the holy Grave. Leaving Mount Calvary on our right hand toward the East end of the Church; for they are both contained within this glorious edifice.  
The Holy Grave is covered with a little Chapel, standing within a round Choir, 
The Holy Grave.  in the west end of the Church: It hath two low and narrow entries: as we entered the first door, three after three, and our shoes cast off, for these two rooms are wondrous little, the Guardiano fell down, ingenochiato, and kissed a stone, whereupon (he said) the Angel stood, when Mary Magdalen came to the Sepulchre, to know if Christ was risen, on the third day as he promised: And within the entry of the second door, we saw the place where Christ our Messias was buried, and prostrating ourselves in great humility, every man according to his Religion, offered up his prayers to God.  
The Sepulchre itself, is eight foot and a half in length, and advanced about three foot in height from the ground, and three foot five inches broad, being covered with a fair Marble stone of white colour.  
In this Chapel, and about it, I mean without the utter sides of it, and the inward incirclings of the compassing Choir, there are always burning above fifty Lamps of oil, maintained by Christian Princes, who stand most of them within encircling bands of pure Gold, which is exceeding sumptuous; having the names of those, who sent or gave them, engraven upon the upper edges of the round circles: each of them having three degrees, and each degree depending upon another, with supporters of pure Gold, rich and glorious. The fairest whereof was sent thither by King john of England, whereon I saw his Name, his Title, and Crown curiously indented, I demanded the Guardiano if any part of the Tomb was here yet extant, who replied, there was, but because (said he) Christians resorting thither, being devoutly moved with affection to the place, carried away a good part thereof, which caused S. Helen enclose it under this stone; whereby some relics of it should always remain. I make no doubt but that same place is Golgotha, where the holy Grave was, as may appear by the distance, between Mount Calvary and this sacred Monument; which extendeth to forty of my paces: This Chapel is outwardly decored, with 15 coupell of Marble Pillars, 
The glorious Chapel of the Holy Grave.  and of 22 foot high; and above the upper coverture of the same Chapel, there is a little six-angled Turret made of Cedar wood, covered with Lead, and beautified with six small Columns of the same tree. The chapel itself standeth in a demicircle or half Moon, having the little door or entry looking East, to the great body of the Church, and to Mount Calvary, being opposite to many other venerable monuments of memorable majesties.  
The form of the Quire wherein it standeth, is like unto the ancient Rotundo in Rome, but a great deal higher and larger, having two gorgeous Galleries; one above another, and adorned with magnificent Columns, being open at the top, with a large round; which yieldeth to the heavens, the prospect of that most sacred place.  
In which second Gallery we strangers reposed all these three nights we remained there: whence we had the full prospect of all the spacious Church, and all the Oriental people were there at this great feast of Easter day, being about 6000 persons: from this curious carved Chapel we returned through the Church to Mount Calvary▪ To which we ascended by 21 steps, 18 of them were of Marble, and three of Cedar-wood: where, when we came I saw a most glorious and magnific room, whose covert was supported all about with rich Columns of the Porphyre stone, and the over-seelings loaden with Mosaicke work, and over-gilded with gold, the floor being curiously indented with intermingled Alabaster & 
The beauty of Mount Calvary.  black shining Parangone: On my left hand I saw a platformed Rock, all covered with thick and engraven boards of silver; and in it a hole of a cubits deep, in which (say they) the Cross stood whereon our Saviour was crucified: And on every side thereof a hole for the good and bad thiefs, were then put to death with him. Descending from Mount Calvary, we came to the Tomb of Godfrey du Bulloine, who was the first proclaimed Christian King of jerusalem, and refused to be crowned there, saying; It was not decent, the servants head should be crowned with gold, where the Master's head had been crowned with thorns; having this Inscription engraven on the one side:  
Hic jacet inclytus Godfridus de Bullion, qui t●tam hanc terram acquisivit cultui divino, 
Two famous Sepulchers.  cujus anima requiescat in pace.  
And over against it, is the Tomb of King Baldwine his brother, which hath these Verses in golden Letters curiously indented.  
Rex Baldevinus, Judas alter Machabeus  
Spes patriae, Vigour Eccl●siae, Virtus, utriusque;  
Quem formidabant, cui dona, tributa ferebant.  
Caesar, Aegypti Dan, ac homicida Damasus;  
Proh dolour! in modico clauditur hoc Tumulo.  
The other things within the Church they showed us, were these, a Marble Pillar, whereunto (say they) our Saviour was bound, when he was whipped, and scourged for our sakes: the place is a low Cellar, about fourteen stone degrees under the ground, where the Cross was hid by the jews, and found again by S. Helen: the place where Christ was crowned with thorns, which is reserved by the Abasines, and where the Soldiers cast lots for his Garment; 
Where Christ was nailed to the Crosse.  the place where he was imprisoned, whiles they were making of his Cross, and where the Cross, being laid along upon the ground, our Saviour was nailed fast to it; the Rock, which (as they say) rend at his Crucifying, which is more likely to be done with hammers: and set one piece a foot from another, for the slit looks, as if it had been cleft with wedges and beetles. And yet the sacred Scriptures say that it was not a Rock, but the Temple that did rend in two from the bottom to the top, wherein these silly soule-sunke Friars are merely blinded, understanding no more than leying traditions; perfiting this their national Proverb; 
Con arte, et con inganno, ci vivono medzo l' anno  
Con inganno et con arte, ci vivono l' altera parte.  
With guile and craft, they live the one half year  
With craft and guile, the other half as clear.   
And lastly, they take upon them below Calvary to show us where the head of Adam was buried. These and many other things, are so doubtful, that I do not register them for truth (I mean in demonstrating the particular places) but only relates them as I was informed.  
There are seven sorts of Nations, different in Religion, and Language, who continually (enduring life) remain within this Church, having incloistered lodgings joining to the walls thereof: their victuals are brought daily to them by their familiars, receiving the same at a great hole in the Church door; for the Turks seldom open the entry unless it be when Pilgrims come, save one hours' space only every Saturday in the afternoon, and at some extraordinary Festival days: and yet it doth not stand open then, but only opened to let strangers in and shut again: For this purpose each family have a Bell fastened at their lodging, with a string reaching from thence to the Church-door, 
Seven religi●ous Families.  the end whereof hangeth outwardly; By the which commodity, each furnisher ringing the Bell, giveth warning to his friends, to come to receive their necessaries, for through the body of the Church they must come to the porch-doore, and return from it to the Cloister.  
The number of those, who are tied to this austere life, are about three hundred and fifty persons, being Italians, Greeks, Armenians, Aethiopians, jacobins, a sort of circumcised Christians, Nestorians, and Chelfains of Mesopotamia.  
The day before the Resurrection, about the hour of midnight, the whole Sects and sorts of Christians Oriental (that were come thither in Pilgrimage, and dwelled at jerusalem) convened together, which were about the number of six thousand men, women, and children: for being separated by the Patriarches in two companies, they compassed the Chapel of the Holy Grave nine times; holding in their hands burning Candles, making the beginning pitiful, and lamentable regreetings, but in the ending, there were beating of Kettledrums, sounding of Horn-trumpets, and other instruments, dancing, leaping, and running about the Sepulchre, with an intolerable tumult, as if they had been all mad, or distracted of their wits.  
Thus is the progress of their procession performed in mere simplicity, wanting civility, and government. But the Turks have a care of that, for in the midst of all this hurley burley, they run amongst them with long Rods, correcting their misbehaviour with cruel strokes: and so these slavish people, even at the height of their Ceremonious devotion are strangely abused.  
But our Procession begun before theirs, and with a greater regard, because of our Tributes: The Turks mean while guarding us, not suffering the other Christians to be participant in the singular dotage of the Romish folly, being after this manner: First, the Guardian, and his Friars brought forth of a Sacrastia, allotted for the same purpose, the wooden portraiture of a dead Corpse, representing our Saviour, having the resemblance of five bloody Wounds, 
An abominable Idolatry.  the whole body of which Image, was covered with a Cambric Vaile: Where having therewith thrice compassed the Chapel of the Holy Grave, it was carried to Mount Calvary, and there they imbalmed the five Timber holes; with Salt, Oil, Balm, and odoriferous perfumes.  
Then the Guardian, and the other twelve Friars kneeled down, and kissed each one of the five Suppositive Wounds: the Turks mean while laughing them to scorn in their faces, with miserable derision. Thence they returned, and laid the senseless block upon the Holy Grave, whence being dismissed the Papal Ceremony ended.  
Truly hereupon, may I say, if the Roman Jesuits, Dominicans and Franciscans, there Resident in certain special parts of the Turks Dominions, had only behaved themselves as their politic charge required, and dismissed from the Paganism eyes, only their idolatrous Images, veneration of Pictures, Crosses, and the like external superstitious Rites. These Infidels I say, had long ago (without any insight of Religion) been converted to the Christian Faith. For besides all this blindness, what infinite abominable Idolatries commit they in Italy and Spain; in clothing the Pictures of dead Abbots, Monks, Priors, Guardians, and the better kind of Official Friars and Priests, with Robes of Satin, Velvet, Damask, Taffeta, long gowns and cowls of cloth, 
Damnable & intolerable superstition.  shirts, stockings, and shoes: And what a number of liveless portrayed Prioresses, motherless Nuns, yet infinite mothers, be erected (like the Maskerata of Morris-dancers) in silver, gold, gilded brass, iron, stone, tin, lead, copper, clay, and timber shapes, adorned with double and triple ornaments: overwrought with silk, silver and goldlaces, rich bracelets, silk grograims, and Cambric Vails, chains, smocks, ruffs, cuffs, gloves, collars, stockings, garters, pumps, nosegays, beads, and costly head-geire, setting them on their Altars, O spectaculous Images! adoring them for gods, in kneeling, praying, and saying Masses before them: Yet they are none of their avowed, allowed, and canonised pontifical Saints: for although they be bastards and wooden blocks, yet are they better clad, than their lupish legitimate ones, no, I may say, as the best Kings Daughter alive. Which is a sinful, odious, and damnable idolatry; and I freely confess at some times, and in some parts I have torn a pieces those rich garments from their senseless Images & Blocks, thinking it a greater sin not to do it, than to s●and staring on such prodigal profaneness, with any superstitious respect, or with indifferent forbearance to wink at the wickedness of Idolaters.  
Here the Guardiano offered for ten pieces of gold (although my due be thirty Chequins said he) to make me Knight of the holy Grave, or of the order of jerusalem▪ which I refused, knowing the condition of that detestable Oath I behoved to have sworn; but I saw two of these other Pilgrims receive that Order of Knight hood.  
The manner whereof is thus: First, they bind themselves with a solemn vow, to pray (during life) for the Pope, 
The Knights of the Holy Grave.  King of Spain, and the Duke of Venice, from whom the Friars receive their maintenance; and also inspeciall, for the French King, by whose means they obtain their liberty of the Great Turk, to frequent these monumental places. Secondly, they are sworn enemies to Protestants, and others, who will not acknowledge the superiority of the Roman Church. Thirdly, they must pay yearly some stipend unto the Order of the Franciscans. These attestations ended, the Friar putteth a gilded Spur on his right heel, causing the young made Knight stoop down on his knees, and lay his hands on the holy Grave: after this he taketh a broad sword from under his grey gown (being privately carried for fear of the Turks) which is (as he said) the Sword, wherewith victorious Godfrey conquered jerusalem, and giveth this new upstart Cavaliero, nine blows upon the right shoulder. Lo here the fashion of this Papistical Knighthood, which I forsook.  
Indeed upon the Knighthood they have certain privileges among the Papists, of which these are two: If a Malefactor being condemned and brought to the Gallows, any of these Knights may strait cut the rope and relieve him: The other is, they may carry and buy silks through all Spain and Italy, or elsewhere, and pay no Custom, neither in coming nor going, nor for any silk ware, where the Romish Church hath any commandment.  
After our Guardiano had ended his superstitious Rites and Ceremonies, upon Easter day, before midnight, we returned to the Monastery, having stayed three days within that Church: And the next day thereafter, the nine Ragusan and Venetian Factors left us, returning back to their several Stations.  
About six of the clock on monday morning, the Padre Viccario, and the aforesaid john Baptista accompanying us, we travailed abroad in the hilly Country of judea. 
Certain 〈◊〉 of Monuments.  In this day's journey, the places of any note we saw were these. First, where the Daughters of jerusalem came forth to meet Saul, crying, Saul hath slain his thousand, and David his ten thousand: And for memory of this standeth a certain old pillar of Marble. Next the valley of grebin, where David slew the great Goliath. And for remembrance of that, there are a great heap of stones laid together in the bottom of the valley, like to the Relics of an old monument. Thirdly Bezura, where Absalon killed his brother Ammon for Thamar's sake, whereof nothing but the name is only reserved.  
Fourthly, the Castle of Emaus, 
〈◊〉▪  now altogether ruinated except only three firehouses of Moors; in which our Saviour was known after his resurrection, by the two Disciples, in breaking of bread; where now the remanent● of that house being vaulted, is turned over for a shelterage to sheep, and a soft paved lodging for quivering Goats.  
Fiftly, the valley of Gibeon, where the ray-beaming Sun stood still at the voice of joshua, from his natural course. joshua 10. 12.  
Sixtly, the Tomb or burial place of Samuel, that divine Prophet of the Lord: over the which the Moors have a Moskque erected, wherein we could not enter, but hard by and without it, we found one of the finest Fountains in all judea, and yet not a dwelling house near unto it by three miles, in regard of the sascinous and infertile ground about it, the water whereof was exceeding light, sweet and pleasant in digestion. Seventhly, the Tombs of the valiant Captain judas Macchabeus, and his Children, whereupon are now only the ruins of an old Chapel, which is converted in a hold for Sheep and Goats: And last of all, the burial place of the noble Family of the Kings and Queens of Israel, 
The burial● place of the Kings and Queens of Israel.  or jerusalem, being near unto the City, and within a short half mile. The entry whereto was so straight, that on our backs we behoved to slide down, above ten paces under the ground with light candles in our hands.  
In that spacious place we saw twenty four Chambers hewn out of a Marble Rock. Each room hath a hanging stone door of a great thickness, so artificially done by the skilful Art of Masons, that the rarest spirit of ten thousand cannot know how these doors have been made, so to move as they do, being a firm Rock both below and above; and the doors have neither iron nor timberwork about them: but by cunning are made so to turn, and in that same place where they grew they are squared; yea and so tightly done that the most curious Carpenter cannot join a piece of board so neatly, as these stone doors join with the Rock. In each of these rooms are two Sepulchers, wherein I saw the bones of some of these dead Princes.  
Thursday, the tenth day of my being at jerusalem, not reckoning the two days we spent in going to jordan the week, before: We I say, issued forth of the City early with our aforesaid Guides, riding Westward: The first remarkable thing we saw, was the place (as they say) where the Cross grew, whereon Christ suffered: being reserved by Greeks, who have a Convent builded over it: That Cross is said to have been of four sundry kinds of wood, and not of one Tree, for they showed us but one hole where it grew, and so they hold it to have been of one piece of Olive Tree, but this I suspend, leaving it to be searched, by the pregnancy of riper judgements than mine, howsoever opinio●s.  
And here I cannot forget a dissembling knavish Greek, 
The lying v●lany of a Rogish Greek.  who came here to London some eight years ago, to beg support for the reparation of this decayed Monastery of the holy Crosse. Well, Gundamore the Spanish Ambassador entertained him; and recommended his cause to our politic power: A contribution is granted, over all England for the same purpose, and also recoiled, besides the several acknowledgements of our Noble Courtiers: Opportunity come, I rancountred with this counterfeit Rascal in White Hall: Whereupon divers Gentlemen his Majesty's servants, desired me to try him, if he had been at jerusalem, or dwelled at the Cloister of the holy Cross: presently I demanded him, where the Convent stood, he replied within jerusalem, and upon Mount Moriah: which was false, for the Convent is remote from the City, about three English miles: I posed him further about the situation of jerusalem, etc. The quantity of this Cloister, of its Church, of the number of Friars, who lived in it, with many more questions, whose circumstances would be redious: To any one of which, he could not reply, but stood shivering for fear and shame; neither had he never been in Asia nor these parts: whereupon stealing out of the Court, he was no more seen abroad: for he had got at Court, and in the Kingdom, above twelve hundred pounds sterling, besides the advancement of the Papists, and Recusants: and here was a trick, that then the Spanish faction put on us and themselves also being deceived by a deceiver, deceived us with a double deceit, policy, and lies.  
About five miles further, we arrived at a Village, on the Mountain of judea, where we saw a disinhabited house, in which Elizabeth the mother of Saint john Baptist dwelled when Mary came up from Galilee to salute her; and near to this, we beheld (as they say) the Sanctuary wherein Zacharias was stricken dumb till Elizabeth was delivered: Two miles further, on a Rocky Mountain, we arrived at a Cave, 
Saint john the Baptists Cave.  wherein (say they) S. john did his penance till he was nineteen years of age, afterwhich time, he went down and dwelled at jordan: It is a pretty fine place hewn out of a Rock, to the which we mounted by twelve steps, having a window our through a great thickness of firm stone whence we had the fair prospect of a fruitful valley: and from the mouth of this delectable Grotto, gusheth forth a most delicious Fountain.  
Returning thence, we passed over an exceeding high Mountain, from whence we saw the most part of judea and to the Westward, in the way of Egypt, the Castle of the Prophet Elisha, and Idumea the Edomits land lying also between Egypt▪ and jerusalem: This cloudy height, is called, the Mountain of judea, because it overtoppeth all the rest of the Mountains, that circumviron jerusalem, Palestine, Gallilee, Phenicia, or Samaria. Descending on the South of the same Hill, we arrived at Phillip's Fountain, in which he baptised the Eunuch of Aethiopia, standing full in the way of Gaza. Here we paid some certain Madi●s unto the Moors of the Village, for accosting the place, and drinking of the water: So did we also for the sight of every special Monument in judea.  
At night, we lodged in Bethleem, in a Monastery of the same Fransciscans of jerusalem, being only six Friars: After Supper we went all of us (having Candles) to the place, where our Saviour was borne▪ over the which, there is a magnificent Church builded: yea, the ●ost large and royal workmanship that for a Church is in all Asia, or Africa, being decored with an hundred and fifty Pillars. But before we came where the Crib had been, we passed certain difficile ways; where, being arrived, we entered in a gorgeous room, adorned with Marble, Sapphire, and Alabaster stones; and there they showed us both the place and the resemblance of the Crib: 
Chri●●s Crib at Bethleem.  over which were hanging lamps of pure Gold, and within their circle's oil continually burning. Not far from that place, and within the body of the admirable Church, they showed us the part, over the which, the Star stayed, that conducted the three Wisemen from the East, who came out of Chaldea, to worship Christ, and presented gifts unto him. From thence they brought us to a Cave without the Townh, wherein (say they) the Virgin Mary was hid, when Herod persecuted the Babes life, (from which also being warned by the Angel) She and joseph fled down into Egypt with the Child.  
In this time of her fear, say they, the milk left her blessed breasts, so that the Babe was almost starved, but She praying to the Almighty, there came forthwith abundance, which overflowing her breasts, and falling to the ground, left ever since, as they allege, this consequent virtue to this Cave.  
The earth of the Cave is white as Snow, and hath this miraculous operation, 
Admirable dust.  that a little of it drunk in any Liqu●ur, to a Woman, that after her Child birth is barren of Milk, shall forthwith give abundance: which is not only available to Christians, but likewise to Turkish, Moorish, and Arabianish Women, who will come from far Countries, to fetch of this Earth. I have seen the nature of this dust practised, wherefore I may boldly affirm it, to have the force of a strange virtue. Of the which Earth I brought with me a pound weight, and presented the half of it to our sometimes Gracious Queen Anne of blessed Memory, with divers other rare Relics also, as a Girdle, and a pair of Garters of the Holy Grave, all richly wrought in silk and gold, having this inscription at every end of them in golden Letters, Sancto Sepulchro, and the word jerusalem, etc.  
Wednesday following, we hired four and twenty Moors to conduct us unto Salomon's Fishponds, 
Solomon's Fish ponds.  which are only three, being never a whit decayed; and to Fons Segnatus, whence cometh the water in a stone Conduit, along the Mountains, that serveth jerusalem, which work was done by Solomon. The ponds being ●ewen out, and made square from the devalling face of a precipitating Mountain; through which the stream of Fons Signatus runneth, filling the ponds till it come to its own aquadotte.  
Returning thence, and keeping our way Southward, we passed through the Valley of Hebron, where jacob dwelled, and entered into the fields of Sychem, where Jacob's Sons kept their Father's Sheep; and not far hence, they showed us a dry pit, which they called Joseph's pit, that was at Dothan; wherein he was put by his Brethren before they sold him to the Ismaelites.  
In ●ur back coming to Bethleem, we saw a Cave in the Desert of Ziph wherein David hid himself, when he was persecuted by King Saul; and the field Adra, where the Angels brought the glad tidings of salvation unto the Shepherds. Unto all which parts our Moorish guard and john Baptista, brought us and conducted us back again to Bethleem, 
The Town of Bethleem.  where we stayed the second night.  
Bethleem is the pleasantest Village in all judea, situated on a pretty Hill, and five English miles from jerusalem: It produceth commodiously, an infinite number of Olive and Figge-trees, some Corns, and a kind of white wine, wherewith we were furnished all the time of our abode there; also in, and about jerusalem. In our way, as we came back to the City, the next day following the Viccario showed us a little Moskee, kept by Turks, in which (said he) was the Tomb of Rachel, jacobus wife, who died in that place; as she was travelling from Padan-Aram, with her husband jacob.  
The ruins also of a house, where Habacuk the Prophet dwelled; a Turpentine tree growing yet by the way side, under the which (say they) th' Virgin Mary was wont to repose herself in travelling. We saw also a natural rock in the high way; whereon (say they) Elias oft slept, and is not ashamed to say, that the hollow dimples of the stone, was only made by the impression of his b●dy; as though the tender flesh of man could leave the print of his portraiture on a hard stone. And not far from this, he showed us the place, where the Star appeared to the wise men, after they had left Herod to seek for the Saviour of mankind.  
Approaching Mount Zion, we saw a quadrangled, dry pond; wherein (say they) Beersheba the Wife of Vriah, was Washing, when David looked forth from the top of his Palace, gazing on the aspect of his lust, gave the Bridle of reason, fast tied in the hands of temptation; and becoming subject to the subtlety of sin, was bewitched by her beauty; wherewith corruption triumphed in Nature, and Godliness decreased in voluntary consent; and from a royal Prophet fell in the bloody lists of Murder and Adultery.  
Over against this place, 
King David's Palace.  on the North side of Gehinnon we saw the ruins of a Palace wherein David dwelled, which had been one of the Angles of the ancient City; and standeth at the division of the valley Ennon, which compassed (as a Ditch) the North part of Mount Zion, even to the Valley jehosophat, and so Eastward, being now filled up with fragments of old walls, and the Valley of Gehinnon lying West, and East; bordering along the South side of Zion, till it join also with the narrow Valley of jehosophat, which invironeth the East, and devalling parts of jerusalem. near to this demolished tower, we saw the habitation of Simeon, who having seen the blessed Messias said: Now, Lord, let thy Servant depart in peace, for mine eyes have seen thy Salvation.  
And now lastly upon the twelfth day of my abode there, early on Thursday morning, the Guardiano, twelve Friars, and john Baptista (because that was the last day of ●eeing any more Monuments, or was to be seen there) accompanied us: as we issued at the South-gate of the City, we came to a place, on the skirt of Zion, where (say they) Peter after his denial of Christ his Master wept bitterly.  
Descending by the side of that same Hill, we crossed the Valley Gehinnon, and came to Acaldema 
Acaldema.  the Potter's ●ield, or field of blood; which is a little four-squared Room, oppositive to the devaling side of the South-falling Zion: three parts whereof are environed with a natural Rock, and the fourth square bordering with the Valley, is made up of stone work: The top is covered, and hath three holes, where through they let the dead Christians fall down, for it is a burial place of Pilgrims to this day. As I looked down, I beheld a great number of dead corpses; some whereof had white winding sheets, and newly dead, lying one above an other in a lump; yielding a pestilent smell, by reason they were not covered with earth, save only the artchitecture of a high vault, which maketh that in a long time the corpses cannot putrify and rot.  
Near unto this Campo, we entered into a dark Cave, where (say they) the Apostles hid themselves, when Christ was taken. At the foot of the same valley, we came to Ponto N●hemia, 
Ponto N●hemia.  in which place the jews did hide the Holy Fire, when they were taken captives to Babylon; walking more downward, toward the Valley of jehosophat, we saw a dark Cellar under the ground without windows; wherein (said the Guardian) the Idolatrous jews made a sacrifice of their children unto a brazen Image called Moloch, which being made hot they enclosed them in the hollowness thereof; and so slew them: and lest their crying should have moved any compassion towards them, they made a thundering noise with Drums, and other Instruments, whereupon the place was called Tophet, mentioned in jer. 7. 31. Hence we came to the Pool of Siloam, in which we washed ourselves, the water whereof falleth down through a Rock, from the City above, running strait to the Valley of jehosophat; and there we saw also the remnant of that sacked Tower of Siloam. Near to this we saw a Fountain, where (say they) the Virgin Mary used oft to wash the Babes clothes and linen clouts. From thence we crossed the Brook Cedron 
Brook Cedron.  (which guttereth through the Valley of jehosophat: and is always dry, unless it be in December, when the rain falleth there impetuously for a month together, which is all the Winter they have in these parts: during which time none may labour, nor travel, but forced to keep themselves within Houses: Having passed, I say, this Brook we came to the Tombs of Absolom and Zacharias, and the Cave wherein Saint james was wont to hide himself from the persecuting jews. Ascending more upward on the Hill, in the way of Bythinia, we saw these places, where judas hanged himself, over which there is a Vault erected, like a half Moon, in memory of his self murder: and hard by they showed us where the withered Figtree grew, the place being enclosed within a high stone Dike; and half a mile thence we came to the ruined house of Simon the Leper.  
Arriving at Bythania, 
Lazarus Tomb in ●ythania.  we saw the Castle and Tomb of Lazarus, on whom Christ showed a Miracle, in raising him from the Grave, after he had been four days dead. It is a singular and rare Alabaster Tomb, and so tightly done, that it excelleth (jerusalem excepted) all the Monuments in judea, erected for the l●ke purpose, being enclosed within a delicate Chapel under the ground. Not far thence in the same Village, we saw the decayed House where Martha, and Mary Magdalen inhabited, and the stone whereon Christ sat (say they) when he said to Martha, Mary hath chosen the best part.  
Leaving this moorish Bythania, being now a Village of no quality, we returned by beggarly Bethphage, and finding it far worse, about midday we arrived on the top of Mount Olivet, where we dined on our own provision carried with us, and then proceeded in our sights.  
From this place we had the full prospect of jerusalem: 
Mount Olive● and the places of note thereof.  For the City standing upon the edge of a Hill, cannot be seen all at one sight; save on this Mountain, which is two times higher than Mount Zion. These are the Monuments shown us upon the Mount of Olives: First, the print of the left foot of our Saviour, in an immovable stone, which he made when he ascended to Heaven; the Guardiano told us further, that the right feet print was taken away by the Turks; and detained by them in the Temple of Solomon: But who can think our Saviour trod so hard at his Ascension, as to have left the impression of his feet behind him.  
Next the place where he foretold the judgement to come, and the signs, and the wonders, that should be seen in the Heavens before that dreadful day. Thirdly, the place where the Symbolum Apostolorum was made, which is a fine Chamber under ground, like a Church, having twelve pillars to support it. Fourthly, where Christ taught his Disciples the Pater noster, and where he fell in an Agony, when he sweat blood and water. Fifthly, where Peter, james, and john slept, whiles our Saviour prayed, and returned so oft to awake them; and also below that, where the other Disciples were left. Sixtly, the Garden of Gethsemaine, where Christ used commonly to pray; in the which place he was apprehended by the Officers of the high Priests, and it was also where judas kissed him, and the Sergeants fell backward on the ground. Seventhly, they showed us a stone marked with the Head, Feet, and Elbows of jesus, in their throwing of him down, when as they bound him, after he was taken, and ever since (say they) have these prints remained there.  
And lastly, at the foot of Mount Olivet, in the Valley of jehosaphat, we descended by a pair of stairs of forty three steps, and six paces large, in a fair Church builded under the ground: Where (say they) the Monument of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary is, and did show it unto us, whom (they think was born in jerusalem, dwelled at Bethleem, and Nazareth, and died upon Mount Zion. I saw also there, the Sepulchers of joseph her Husband, joachim her Father, and of Anna her Mother. And for which sights paying sixteen Madins a man, 
Sacred and singular Tombs.  to certain Moors: we returned to our Monastery again night to repose us, having seen all the Antiquities and places of note, were to be seen, in, and about all judea.  
Lo, I have plainly described all these Monuments, by the order of these twelve several days: The like heretofore, was never by any Traveller so punctually, and so truly, and so curiously set down, and made manifest to the intellective Reader. But as I said in the beginning of my Description, so say I now at the conclusion, some of these things are ridiculous, some of manifest untruths, some also doubtful, and others, somewhat more credible, and of apparent truth. The recapitulation whereof, is only by me used, as I was informed, by Gaudentius Saybantus the father Guardian, Laurenzo Antonio il Viccario, and the Trenchman john Baptista.  
Then had we avaricious Baptista our Guide and Interpreter to reward every one of us propining him with two Chequins of Gold: And lastly, we gratified the gaping Steward, the Cerberian Porter, the Cimmerian Cook, and his Aetnean face, with a Chickeen of Gold the man, from each of us: amounting in all among the four Catz●cullioni, to twenty four pounds fifteen shillings sterling.  
Nay, 
Greedy and ●●attering Friars.  this was not all; for even when the Egyptian Caravan, was staying for us without the City, the Guardian made a begging Sermon to us, imploring our bounties to commiserate and support their great calamities, losses and oppressions inflicted upon them by the Infidels, with many other base and flattering speeches: which indeed nine of us refused, because of the great Extortion he had imposed upon us before; but the two Germane Barons gave him the value of six English pounds, or thereabouts.  
And now finally, ere I leave Mount Zion, I think it not amiss, to give the itching Traveller a frozen stomach, who perhaps soweth Words in the Wind, conceptions in the Air, and catcheth Salmon swimming on Atlas: I will now (I say) justly cast up to him the charges I defrayed within the Walls of jerusalem, not reckoning my journal expenses and tributes elsewhere abroad; arising to 18 pounds 16 shillings sterling. And there a cooling card for his Caprizziat, and imaginary inventions: And it may serve also, to damnify the blind conceit of many who think that Travellers are at no charges, go where they will, but are freely maintained every where; and that is as false, as an heretical error. May the 12, and the 18 day of my staying there, about midday, the other ten & I joined with the Caravan, who formerly had conditioned with us to carry us to Egypt, & to furnish the rest with Camels or Dromidaries to ride upon, (for I would never ride any) for 19 Piastres the man, discharging us also all Tributes and Caffars were to be imposed upon us by the way; 
The Author's good night to jerusalem.  & so we marched through the South-west part of judea towards Idumea; or the Edomites land; and meanwhile I gave jerusalem this good-night, etc.  
Thrice sacred Zion, sometimes blazed abroad,  
To be the Mansion of the living God;  
For Prophets, Oracles, Apostles dear  
And godly Kings, who raised great glory here:  
Where Aaron's R●d, the Ark and Tables two,  
And Mannaes' Pot, fire of sacrifice so  
From Heaven that fell: were all enclosed in thee  
Containing near, what not contained could be:  
To thee sweet Zion, and thine eldest daughter,  
Which Titus fiercely sacked with jewish slaughter:  
And to thy second birth, raised to my sight  
I prostrate bid, thy blessed bounds good night:  
Next for the Holy land, which I have traced,  
From end to end; and all its beauty faced;  
Where Kings were stalled, disthroned, defaced, renowned,  
Cast down, erected, unscepterd, slain, and crowned:  
The land of Promise, once a Sea of Oil  
Whence milk and honey flowed; yea, to a soil  
Where men, and might, like miracles were raised  
Sprung from a Garden plot: A wonder praised  
Above conceit: whose strength did for excel  
All other lands; take thou my kind farewell.  
And last Franciscan Friars, O painted Tombs!  
Where vice and lust lurk low, beneath your wombs;  
Whose hearts, like Hell, do gape for greed of gold,  
That have Religion, with your conscience sold,  
To you I say a pox, O flattering Friars!  
And damned deceivers, born and bred for Liars,  
Whose end my purse implores; O faithless fellows!  
And leaves you for your pains, cursed Hamans' gallows.  
Having bid farewell to Zion, we marched that afternoon in the way of Gaza; and arrived at night in a goodly Village, more full of jews than Moors, 
Kind jews to us Fra●ks.  called Hembaluda, situate on the face of a fruitful Hill, and the last limit of judea: Here the Germans and I were well entertained gratis, by certain jews that spoke Italian, and much rejoiced to see such strangers in these bounds, for two of them had been borne in Venice: The Captain, and our company were all Egyptians, all of them being Christians, called Copties, viz. believers: Their number was about 800 persons, who had come up from Egypt, to dignify for devotions sake this Easter time, being the greatest feast of jerusalem; of whom by the way we received great affability and kind respect without any offence.  
That night the whole Caravan lay in the fields, and we stayed within the Town making merry with our Hebraick friends, early the next morning we embraced our Idumean way, finding this Edomitish land sorely distressed by the Arabs, and yet the inhabitants were subject to the Turk: In this long days journey we found abundance of water, and all other necessaries for our relief, and yet the people were both rude and extreme barbarous, having no more show of humanity than the fourfooted Leopards of Berdoa.  
The Dutch Gentlemen grew afraid at these Savages, as being unacquainted before with such an awful fight; & to dispel their fear, tush, said I, courage Gentlemen, no scope, no hope, and flashed out these lines in Italian to them.  
To gallant minds, all kind of soils they be,  
Their native land; as fish embrace the Sea:  
For they who would traverse earth's variant face,  
Must take their hazard, as they find the place;  
And that's my soil; best means can me defray,  
But Sirs be glad, we came not here to stay.  
Again night we declined towards Gaz●, 
The ancient City of Gaza.  and there stayed in a fine Cane prepared for Travellers; where the whole Caravan, Soldiers, Camels, Dromidores, Mules, and Asses were all well satisfied and refreshed: The next morning we went to the Bezestan, or Market place, and there furnished ourselves with provision of Bread, Hens, Eggs, Garlic, and Onions, sufficient enough to carry us through the Deserts being ten days journey. Gaza now is called Habalello, and is composed of 1200 firehouses, and fensible against the incursions of Arabs: The chief Citizens, being Turks, Moors, jews, domestic Arabians, with a few Georgians, and Nostranes.  
There is a Garrison here of Soldiers, and a Turkish Captain, that commandeth the Town and Castle: In the afternoon, we set our faces forward to that fearful Wilderness, and traviled o'er night twelve miles, pitching our Tents beside a source or standing Well. Here our Guard kept a strict Watch about us all night; and I kept as well the Germans from langour, cherishing them with jovial merriments, for they were my inward friends yet of a faint and fearful nature. At the break of day we set forward, passing through divers Rockey and shrubby heights, till afternoon, and then we declined to a sandy Valley: Where when come, what with the deepness of the Way, 
Burning Sands.  and the great heat reflexing upon the Sand, and from the Sand to our faces, we were miserable turmoiled and scorched, especially I, who went always on foot.  
Having past this wearisome bottom, and before night marching along the skirt of a craggy Hill, two hundred Arabs broke out upon us from holes and bushes, and shrewdly annoyed our Company with Arrows, till a contribution of sixt●ene Piastres was sent to them. The half of that night we pitched our Tents, in a pastorable plain, 
Wild Arabs selling water.  where some scatering Arabs, sold us Water in Wooden Cups, carrying it in Wild Boars skins upon their naked backs. Two of which Savages our Captain hired, to guide us the next day to the first Castle of the three, that were built by the Turks, and a day's journey distant one from another; being each of them strongly guarded with Soldiers, and that for the relief of Caravans, being the most dangerous, and most desolate place in the Deserts.  
Our Guides the day following, brought us through the best and safest places of the Country, where we found ●ertaine profitable parts, planted with haircloth tents, and over-clad here and there with spots of Sheep and Goats: and yet were we not there without the invasion of straggling Arabs, and paying of tributes, which the Captain defrayed for us, our condition being formerly made so at jerusalem. Before night with great heat, and greater drought, we approached to the first Castle, where the Captain thereof received us kindly, causing our Tents to be pitched round about the quadrangled Tower. Here we had abundance of water (though I would rather have had Wine) to suffice the whole Company, drawn out of a Cistern, and reposing safely upon the hard ground, the Castle Garrison watched us, and our guard watched them.  
Thence with a new Guide the sequel morn, 
grievous and desertuous travelling.  we marched through a fiery faced plain scorched with burning heat, and deep rolling Sand, where divers of our smallest Beasts perished, with six men and Women also in relieving their overwhelmed Asses. Long ere midday, having got to a hard-heigth, we pitched our tents, reposing under their shadows till the evening, for we were not able to endure the intolerable heat of the Sun; and so did we likewise overshadow ourselves every midday. The vigour of the day gone, and the cooling night come, we advanced forward to the middle Castle, being led by our guide, and the pale Lady of the night leading him: Where when come, we found neither that Fort answerable to the former in strength, nor the Captain so humane as the other was here: we were all offended with the scarcity of Water, the Captain playing the Villain, crossed us because the Caravanship were Christians: at last about midnight some 30 Arabs, came to us loaden with Water, carried on their backs. To whom we paid for every Caraff, being an English quart, three Asper's of silver, ten Asper's going to a s●i●ling: Whereof my kind Dutchmen drunk too much, the Water being thick and of a brownish colour; and hot like piss, offended their over-wained stomaches; which as I supposed, was the chiefest cause the next day of some of their Deaths.  
After midnight, the Turkish Captain, and our Caravan fell at variance about Water for our Beasts, who were ready to choke, and if they had not been prevented with Soldiers on both sides, it had drawn us and them, to a ●inall mischief. The discord unpacified, before the following day, and within night, we embraced our wilsome and fastidious way, journeying through many dens & umbragious caves, over-shaded with mouldering heights; in some whereof we found Savage Women lying in their Barbarous childbed: having their bodies naked (the foreface of their Womb excepted) their beds were made of soft Sand, 
Savage women having their Childbed in Caves.  and endeavoured with leaves a foot thick; whose new borne babes lying in their arms, were swaddled with the same Leaves. And for all their sickness, which was very small, they had none of our wives sugared sops, burnt wines, Venison pasties, delicate fare, and great feasting, nor a months lying in, and then Churched, putting their husbands to in comparible charges. No, no, their food is only Bread, Garlick, Herbs, and Water, and on the third or fourth day instead of Churching, they go with Bows and Arrows to the fields again, hunting for spoils and booties from passing Caravans.  
Advancing in our course, we fell down from the hills in a long bottom of sand, above six miles in length: Wherein with sore wrestling against the parching Sun, and could get no ground to pitch our tents to over-shade us, three of our Germans, the two Barons, Signior Strouse, and Signior Crushen, with one Signior Thomasio, tumbled down from their beasts backs stark dead, being suffocated with the vigorous Sun, for it was in May, choked also with extreme drought, and the reflection of the burning sand; and besides their fair was grown miserable, and their water worse, for they had never been acquainted with the like distress before, though it was always my vade Mecum. Whereupon the Caravan s●aied and caused cast on their Corpses again, 
The death three Germane Gentlemen.  on their own beasts backs, and carried them to the side of a hard Hill, we digged a hollow pit, and disroabing them of their Turkish clothes, I did with my own hands cast them all three one above an other, in that same hole, and covering the Corpses with moulding earth; the Soldiers helped me to role heavy stones about their grave, to the end that the bloody jackals should not devour their corpses; and to conclude this woeful and sorrowful accident, the other Germans alive, bestowed on me their dead friends Turkish garments, because of my love and diligent care I ever did show them; which one of their empty Mules carried for me to Grand Cayro.  
Whence with divers assaults, 
The third Castle of the Deserts.  and greater pains accosting the third Castle, with as great bewailing the loss of our friends, as we had contentment in our own safety, we found this third Captain both humane and hospitable: Who indeed himself in person with his Garrison, watched us all night, and had a special care in providing Water for us all, propining our Captain and us eight Franks before supper, with three roasted Hens and two Capons: This Turkish Captain told us there were three inhabited Towns in these Deserts, the chiefest whereof was Sehan, situate on the Red Sea, having a harbour and shipping, that trade both to Egypt and Aethiopia, whose commodities are silken stuffs and Spices which they transport from Mecha, and carry to Melinda, and the aforesaid places in Africa: But now lest I sink in prolixity, discoursing of sinking Sands, and make good the Italian Proverb, Chi troppo abbraceo, nulla string, viz. That he who would embrace too much can hold nothing fast. I desist from this Journal proceeding, and punctual discourse of my laborious pen, wherein, notwithstanding the Reader (I having laid open more than half of the Wilderness) may (like that learned Geometrician, who finding the length of Hercules foot on the Hill Olympus, drew forth the portraiture of his whole body thereby) easily conjecture by the former Relation, the sequel sight of these Desartuo●s places, and therefore the rest, I will only Epitomise in general till mine arrival at Saleack on the Confines of Egypt.  
Arabia is bounded on the West, 
The bounds of the three Arabians.  with the Red Sea, and the Egyptian Isthmus: On the North with Canaan, Mesopotamia, and a part of Syria: On the East with the Persian Gulf, Chaldea, and Assyria: On the South with the great Ocean, and Indian Sea: This Country lieth from the East to the West, in length about 900, and some 3500 miles in compass. The people generally are addicted to Theft, Rapine, and Robberies: hating all Sciences Mechanical or Civil, they are commonly all of the second Stature, swift on foot, scelerate, and seditious, boisterous in speech, of colour tawny, boasting much of their triball Antiquity, and noble Gentry: Notwithstanding their garments be borne with them from the bare belly, their food also semblable, to their rude condition, and as savagiously tame (I protest) as the four footed Citizens of Lybia: They are not val●rous, nor desperate in assaults without great advantage, for a 100 Turks is truly esteemed to be sufficient enough to encounter 300 Arabs. Their language extendeth itself far both in Asia and Africa, in the former: through Palestine, Syria, Mesopotamia, Cilicia, even to the Mount Caucasus: In the latter, through Egypt, Libya, and all the Kingdoms of Barbary even to Morocco.  
This Arabia deserta, is the place where the people of Israel wandered forty years long, being fed with Manna from Heaven, and with water out of the driest rocks. In which is Mount Sinai, where the Law of the two Tables was promulgated. The most part of these Deserts is neither fit for herbage nor tillage, 
The scurrile Arabian Deserts.  being covered over with a dry, and thick Sand, which the wind transporteth whither it listeth, in heats and mountains, that often intercept and endanger fatigated Travellers. The Inhabitants here are few, so are their Cities, their dwellings being sequestrate dens and hair clothe Tents: The most of their wealth consisteth in Camels, Dromidories, and Goats.  
Before our arrival in Saleack, we passed the little Isthmus of ground which parteth Asia, and Africa, disjoining the Mediterranean and the red Seas: Divers have attempted to dig through this straight to make both Seas meet for a nearer passage to India, of whom Sesostris King of Egypt was the first: Secondly, Darius the great Persian Monarch: Thirdly another Egyptian King, who drew a ditch 100 foot bro●d, and thirty and odd miles long. But when he intended to finish it, he was forced to cease, for fear of overflowing all the lower land, the red Sea being found to be higher by three cubits than the ordinary plain of Egypt: Yet howsoever it was, the ditch is hollow in divers parts, and fastidious, because of sand to pass over.  
At Saleack we overtook a great Caravan of two thousand people, & twelve hundred Camels and Dromidores, which were loaden with the ware of Aleppo, and came from Damascus, intending their Voyage for Cayro, whose company we subtly left, and marched before them, for receiving of water by the way for ourselves and beasts out of Cisterns, which we left dry behind us.  
A Dromidore and Camel differ much in quality, but not in quantity, 
The nature of Camels & Dromidores.  being of one height, breadth, and length; save only their heads and feet, which are proportionated alike; and the difference is such that the Dromidory hath a quick and hard-reaching trot, and will ride above 80 miles in the day, if that his Rider can endure the pain. But the Camel is of a contrary disposition: For he hath a most slow and lazy pace, removing the one foot from the other, as though he were weighing his feet in a balance; neither can he go faster although he would: But he is a great deal more tractable than the other: For when his Master loadeth him, he falleth down on his knees to the ground, and then riseth again with his burden, which will be marvellous great, sometimes 600 or 800 weight.  
The Red Sea, which we left to the Westward of us, and our left hand, is not red as many suppose, but is the very colour of other Seas: The reason for which it hath been called Mare rubrum, is only because of the banks, rushes, sands and reeds that grow by the shore side, which are naturally red. Some others have called it so, in respect of the Brooks which Moses turned to red blood, who misconstruing the true sense, took Seas for Rivers.  
It is vulgarly termed Sinus Arabicus, whose length is 1600 miles. This Sea is famous for the miraculous passage of the Israelites through it, and the drowning of Pharaoh and his people: and because of Spices that were brought from India and Arabia to Alexandria, from whence the Venetians dispersed the same through all Europe and the Mediterran Coasts of Asia and Africa: But this Navigation is now discontinued by the Portugals, English and Dutch; which bring such Wares to their several homes by the back side of Africa: So that the Traffic of Alexandria is almost decayed, 
Indian Spices much weakened.  and the Riches of the Venetians much diminished; so is the virtue of the Spices much impaired by too much moisture contracted, with the long and tedious carriage thereof.  
This aforesaid Saleack, is thought to be seated on the lower and Eastmost end of Gozan, consisting of eight hundred dwelling Houses, being walled and fencible against the Arabs, and defended also with a Castle, and ten troops of Horsemen being janissaries. Here we rested and refreshed ourselves two nights, providing us fresh victuals for Grand Cayro, being four days journey distant; and at our leaving of Saleack, I saluted this new seen Country, with a greedy conceit of more curiosities.   

The seventh Part.  
NOw well met Egypt, so our fate allots,  
For we have appetite for thy fleshpots;  
But (ah!) the Season, is too hot to eat  
Of any viand, Kid, Mutton, or such meat:  
Yet for thy Cough made of Coave seed,  
we'll kindly dr●●k it, feed upon thy bread  
And fat ourselves, with thy best herbs and fruits  
For like to our faint stomaches, best besuits:  
Then mighty Kingdom, once the Royal Land,  
Where Kings were first erected, did longest stand;  
And letters Hyrogliphicks, Magic Art,  
Astrology, had first inventions part.  
For wonders, the Piramydes: Balm more good!  
The weeping Crocodile, Nilus swelling flood;  
Death's funeral Mommeis; the Sea-horse bred  
At Damieta: the Sphynx with grandeur clad:  
And where base Fortune, played the errand whore,  
In making mean men great, and great men poor:  
In thee, I'll dive, though deep is thine old ground,  
And further far, than I can search or sound:  
Yet when men shoot, O all the mark do eye;  
But seldom touched; enough if they come nigh:  
Even so must I, for nearer isle not claim,  
The best director, may mistake his aim.  
But as the land is now, I hope I shall  
Clear hardest doubts, and give content to all.  
Thence sought I Malta, Aetna's burning flame,  
And stately Sicily, Gibels greatest fame.  
Whence passing Italy, the Alps I crossed,  
And courting France, told Time, how I was tossed.  
DEparting from Saleack, and having past one of their courses, which is our twelve miles, we reencountred with infinite Villages on both hands, and in our high Way; all builded upon artificial Channels drawn from Nilus; and these Fabrics, only made up of Wood or Brick, being one or two stories high. The Captain, in divers parts at our midday's reposing, was constrained to buy water from the Egyptians, to satisfy the Company: yea, and that same night, the first of faure, ere we came to Cayre, at the Village of Bianstare, he paid five Sultan's of gold for Watering all us and the Beasts, amounting to thirty five shillings sterling.  
The next day journeying towards a goodly Town, named Saliabsteck, we travailed through a fruitful plain, fraught full of Fruit Trees, and abounding in Wheat, 
Two seasons of riping grain in Egypt  Rye, and Barley, being new cut down, May 14. For this was their first Harvest, the Land yielding twice a year Corns; and the latter, is in our December recoiled. This Land hath as it were a continual Summer, and notwithstanding of the burning heat, it produceth always abundance of Fruits and Herbs for all the Seasons of the year: So that the whole Kingdom is but a Garden, having ever one Fruit ready to be plucked down, and another coming forwards; or like to the best sort of Lemmon Trees, that as some are ripe, some are growing green, others budding forth, and some still in the flourish: Even so is the beauty and fertility of all the lower Egypt; which although the Country, be not often troubled with Rain, yet the rank serene or due of the night, in the Summer, refresheth all kinds of growing things: between Saliabsteck, and Cayre, being two days journey: We Franks, bad farewell to water, and drunk daily of Coffa, made of a seed Coava, which being taken hot, and is ever kept boiling within Furnaces in earthen pots, it expelleth the crudity of Fruits and Herbs so much there frequented.  
Arriving at last in, this little World, the great Cair●, and biding farewell to our Caravan, the three Germans and I lodged with one Signior Marco Antonio, a Consul, there for Venice; the other four Frenchmen, going to their own Consul, a Marsellian born and there stayed. Here with this Venetian for three days, the Dutchmen and I had great cheer, but they far greater, a daily swallowing down of strong Cyprus Wine, without mixture of water; which still I entreated them to forbear, but they would not be requested. The season being cruel hot, 
The last three Germane death in Cayre.  and their stomaches surfeited with burning Wine, upon the fourth day long ere noon, the three Dutchmen were all dead; and yet me thought they had no sickness, the red of their faces staying pleasant, their eyes staring always on mine, and their tongues were perfect even to the last of their breath.  
He who died l●st, and lived longest, was William Dilerganck, who left me all his own gold, and what the former five had left him: delivering me the keys of their three cloak bags before the Consul, declared by his mouth that he left me absolute heir, to intromet with all and whatsoever they had there: But eftsoons the treacherous Consul knowing that I was a stranger to them, and by accident met together at jerusalem, and that they were Gentlemen, and well provided with gold, forged a reason to himself, and for his own benefit, that he would meddle with all they left behind them, under this excuse, that he would be answerable to their friends for it, at his return to Venice: Well, I am left to bury them, and with great difficulty bought one grave for them all three in a Copties Chapel, where I interred them: paying to the Egyptian Christians for that eight foot of ground, ten Sultan's of Gold, besides six Piastres for carrying their corpse hither, being two miles in the City distant from the Consul's house. Whence, ere I had returned, the Venetian Factor seized upon all, and shutting his gate upon my face, sent me out my own budget: Whereupon I addressed myself to the French Consul, Monsieur Beauclair, who kindly received me, and having told him all the manner, how I was greatly wronged and oppressed by the other Consul; he strait sent for a jewish Physician, his familiar Oracle: Where having consulted together, the next day early we went all three, and their so lours to the Beglerbeg, or Governor of the City: we soon complained, and were as soon heard: the Venetian Consul is sent for, and he cometh: where facing, the Judge and pleading both our best, 
A favourable Turkish judgement.  (for there are no Lawyers in Turkey every man speaking for himself) the Bassaw with his Counsel upon sight of the keys of their Cloakbags in my hands, and my narration thereupon (and not withstanding favouring the Factor) immediately determined that I should have the two parts of their moneys, with all their jerusalem relics, and Turkish clothes, and the Venetian to have the former third part. It is done, and irrevocable, upon which the jewish Doctor, and I with two janissaries came to mine adversaries house; where I giving the jew the keys, the Cloakbags were opened, and the money being told, it came just to 1424 Chequins of gold besides certain rings and tablets: The jew delivered me my part, which came to 942 Chidkeens, the rest went to the inconscionable Consul, with the half of the rings & tablets And packing up all the relics, moneys, clothes, and Cloakbags I hired a Mule, and brought them along with me to the French Factors house. Where, when come, Monsieur Beauclair, and my fellow Pilgrims, were very glad that I had sped so well, none of us all knowing what was in the cloak-bags till they were viewed; & giving hearty thanks to the Consul, and ten pieces of gold to the jew and janissaries, I supped, and reposed till the morrow, thanking God of my good fortune: Yet was I exceeding sorrowful for the loss of these gallant Gentlemen, Religiously disposed, and so affable, that for familiarity and kindness they were the mirrors of noble minds, and virtuous spectacles of humanity; whose Deaths were to me a Hell, and whose lives had been my Paradise on earth. To whose memory and praise, I am not able to Congratulate the least Commendation, their Heroic dispositions, deserved at my hands.  
But what shall I say, their time was come, which mortality might sorrow, but sorrow might not prevent Death, whose power is deaf to all humane lamentations. Neither will I rely so much upon my own worthiness, 
God's provident mercies.  as to think the benefit of the procrastination of my Life, was by any merit of mine deserved, but that God so much the more, might show his incomprehensible goodness in delivering me, from the violence of such unexpected accidents, and to tie my soul to be thankful for his mercies. For all the beginnings of man are derived from God, whose ends are either perfited or disannulled by his determination; and nothing we possess is properly our own, or gotten by our own power, but given us only through his goodness and munificence.  
And all the spaces of earth which our feet tread over, the Light we enjoy, and the excellent faculties we are endued withal; or what we can do, say, or think, is only raised, guided, and distributed, by God's impenetrable Counsel, Will, and Providence: which although the pride of our wicked nature doth not yield the true attribution thereunto; yet the powerful working of the counsel of God is such, that in itself, it proveth an eternal wisdom, and confoundeth the foolishness of the World.  
This incorporate World of Grand Cairo, is the most admirable and greatest City, seen upon the earth, being thrice as large of bounds as Constantinople, and likewise so populous, but not so well builded, being situate in a pleasant Plain, and in the heart of Egypt, kissing Nilus at some parts.  
The City is divided in five Towns, first and foremost, Cairo novo, 
The great City of Gr●nd Cayre.  the new Cairo, which is the principal and chiefest place of all the other, lying in midst of the rest, having Walls and Ports, the circuit whereof is twenty two miles, containing all the chief Merchandise and Market places within it.  
The second is Cairo Vecchio, the old Cairo, called formerly Cairo the Babylonia, or Babylon Aegyptiorum: for there were two Babylon's, one in Assyria called now by the Turks Bagdat, and the other is this that joineth with the new Cairo: It was also anciently called Memphis, and was the furthest place Ulysses in his Travels visited, so well memorised by Homer: yet a Voyage of no such estimation as that Princely Poet accounted it; for his Travels were not answerable to the fifteenth part of mine:  
The third Town is Medin, joining to the backside of the old Cairo, toward the Pyramids: The fourth is Boulake, running a great length down along and near the River side, having three Market places of no small account: The fifth and last, is the great Town of Caraffar, bending Southward, in the way of the Red Sea for many miles: All which are but as Suburbs to the new Cairo, that of many smalls make up a Country, rather than a City: And yet all of them are contiguate one with an other, either to the left or right hand, or to them both, with innumerable streets: The length whereof in all, from the lowest end of Boulak, to the South-most part of Caraffar is by my deep experience twenty eight English miles, and fourteen in breadth; for trial whereof I tr●ad it one day on foot from Sun to Sun, 
The length of great Cayre & the bounds thereof.  being guide● and guarded with a riding janissary, which for my bruised feet on the streets, was one of the ●orest days journey that ever I had in my life.  
The principal gates of the new Cairo are Babeh Mamstek, looking toward the Wilderness and the Red Sea: Bebzavillah toward Nilus, and Babel Eutuch toward the fields: The streets are narrow, being all of them almost covered to save them from the parching heat with open vents for light; and their buildings commonly are two stories high, composed either of mud or brick, and platform on the tops; whereon usual in the night they use to sleep to embrace the fresh and cooling air. Their Bazar or exchange beginneth at the gate of Mamsteck, and endeth at a place called Babeso.  
At the corners of chief streets and market places, there are divers horses standing ready saddled and bridled, that for a small matter, or according to the way, a man may hire and ride where so he will, either to negotiate, or to view this spacious spread City, and change as many horses as he listeth, having the Masters which own them to convey them for less or longer way, which is a great ease to weary passengers.  
There is a great commerce here with exceeding many nations; for by their concurring hither, it is wonderful peopled with infinite numbers: for the Country aboundeth in Silks, Corns, Fruits, Wax, Honey, and the sovereign Balsamo good for all sores, besides many other Commodities of cotton-wool, rich Stuffs of cloth of gold and silver, and the best Satins, Damask, Taffetas, and Grograims that are made in the World are here.  
The infinite populositie of which place, and the extreme heat, is the cause why the pest is evermore in the City: in so much, that at some certain times, ten thousand persons have died in one day: Nay, the City is reputed to be in good health, if there die but one, or two thousand in a day, or three hundred thousand in a whole year, I mean, when the sore encroaching pestilence, which every third year useth to visit them, is ri●e here.  
In this Town a Traveller may ever happily find all these sorts of Christians, Italians, French, greeks, Chelfaines, Georgians, Ethiopians, jacobines, Syrians, Armenians, 
Divers Nations residing in C●yre.  Nicolaitans, Abassines, Cypriots, Sclavonians, captivate Maltezes, Sicilians, Albanese, and high Hungarians, Ragusans, and their own Egyptian Copties; the number of which is thought to be beyond two hundred thousand people: besides the infinite number of Infidels, whose sorts are these, Turks, tawny Moors, white Moors, black Moors, or Nigroes, Musilmans, Tartars, Persians, Indians, Sabunckes, Berdoanes, jews, Arabians, Barbares, and Tingitanian Saracens. All which are Mahome●ans, and Idolatrous Pagans.  
From the great Palatiate Mansion, where the Beglerbeg or Vicegerent hath his constant Residence, being builded on a moderate height; a man may have the full prospect of the better part of the Town, the Gardens, and Villages bordering on Nilus, and a great part of the lower plains of Egypt. Their Laws here and Heathenish Religion, are Turkish and Mahometanicall, and the Customs and Manners of the people, are like to their birth and breeding, beastly and barbarous; being great Sodomites, and Diabolically given to all sorts of abominations.  
The better sort of Women here, and all the Kingdom over, wear Rings of Gold or Silver, through the hollow of their noses, 
The Egyptian decorements.  both ends of their mouths, and in their under lips; hanging rich pearls and precious stones to them; wearing also about their arms fair Bracelets, and about their ankles below, broad bonds of gold or silver. To which if the base sort cannot attain unto, than they sergeant their Betters with Rings, Bracelets, and bonds of Brass, Copper, Led, and white Iron, and think themselves not worthy to live unless they wear these badges.  
They also use here as commonly they do through all Turkey, the Women to piss standing, and the men to coure low on their knees, doing the like. They wear here linen breeches and leather Boots as the men do, and if it were not for their covered faces, and longer gowns, we would hardly know the one from the other. As for the Religion of the Copties or Egyptian Christians, they are Circumcised, after the judaical manner, 
The Egytian Christians.  but not after the eight day, but the eight year. And it is thought, they follow the Religion of Eutyches, holding but one nature in Christ: which was defended by Dioscorus and the Counsel of Ephesus, in regard of Eutyches. But the Copties themselves say, they have their Religion from Prester jehan, and so it is most manifest, being no difference between the one and the other.  
They make frequently at all meetings the sign of the Cross to other, thwarting their two foremost fingers, lay them on their brow, and then on their breasts, & kissing them, the salutation is done.  
They will not suffer any Images, 
The 〈◊〉 Religion.  nor Pictures to be in their Churches, and yet they have an Altar, and a kind of Mass, said in their own Language, sacrificing the Ostia for the real Body and Blood of Christ; Yet they deny Purgatory, the invocation of Saints, and Prayers for the Dead, etc. Nevertheless auricular Confession is commonly used among them: so do the greeks in all these points the like, and all the people Oriental.  
The Inhabitants here, were the first Inventors of the Mathematical Sciences, of Letters, and of the use of Writing: Great Magicians and Astrologians, 
The nature of the Egypt●a● Moores.  and are yet endued with a special dexterity of Wit; but somewhat slothful, and given to Riot and Luxury: Merry also, great Singers, and sociable Companions; and no wonder, the land being so plentiful, and their nature libidinous, it increaseth both their insolence, and inordinate affections. Neither do they live long, in regard of the great heat they endure. Egypt being placed between the two Tropickes, under the Torrid Zone, bringeth to pass, that seldom will any there attain to threescore years of age.  
In all this Land of Egypt, which is a great Kingdom, there is no running Well or Fountain, save only the River Nilus: Neither do the Inhabitants scarcely know what Rain is, because they seldom see any, and if by rare accident, a Cloud happen to dissolve upon them, it bringeth to their bodies innumerable sores and diseases. And yet for abundance of Corns, and all kind of fruits the Earth yieldeth, there is no Country can brag with Egypt; whereupon it was called in the time of the Romans, as well as Sycilia, Horreum populi Romani. And notwithstanding this Kingdom produceth no Wines, neither is garnished with Vineyards, but that which strangers make use of, are brought from Candy, Cyprus, & Greece. The defect being thus, these Mahometanicall Moors observing strictly the Law of their Alcor an, will neither plant wines, nor suffer any to be planted, accounting it a deadly sin to drink wine; but for Coffa, & Sherpet, composed Liquors, they drink enough of.  
As for their Balsamo, 
The Garden of Balsamo.  the Garden wherein it groweth, lieth near to the Southside of Cayre, and enclosed with a high Wall, being six miles in compass, and daily guarded by Turks. To which when I came, being Conducted with a janisary, they would not suffer me to enter, neither any Christian, & far less the jews: For not long ago, they were the cause, that almost this Balm was brought to confusion, they having the custom of it for certain years.  
The Tree itself is but of three foot height, which keepeth evermore the colour green, having a broad three pointed leaf, which being thrice in the year incised in the body and branches; it yieldeth a red Water that droppeth in earthen Vessels, which is the natural Balsomo.  
And not far from this Garden, in a sandy Desert, is the place called Mommeis, which are innumerable Caves cut forth of a Rock, where unto the Corpses of the most men in Cayro, are carried and interred. Which dead bodies remain always, unpurified; neither yield they a stinkingsmell: Whereof experiments are plentiful at this day by the whole Bodies, Hands, or other parts, which by Merchants are now brought from thence, and doth make the Mummia which Apothecaries use: The colour being very black, and the flesh clung unto the bones.  
Now having viewed, 
The Pyramid of Egypt.  and reviewed this Microcosmus of the greater world, the four French Pilgrims and I, did hire a janissary to conduct us to the great Pyramids, surnamed the World's wonders; which are distant from Cayre about four Leagues, standing beside or near to to the banks of Nilus: Where, when come, I beheld their proportion to be Quadrangled, growing smaller and smaller to the top, and builded with huge and large stones, the most part whereof, are five foot broad, or there abouts, and nine foot in length, being of pure Marble.  
All the Historians that ever wrote of these Wonders, have not so amply Received their admirable greatness, as the experience of the beholder, may testify their excessive greatness and height. The first and East-most we approached unto, is highest, and by our Dragomans' skilful Report, amounted to eleven hundred and twenty six foot. The Basis, or bottom whereof, being twelve hundred paces in Circuit, allowing every square of the four faces three hundred paces, and every pace two foot and a half. Every Pyramid having outwardly to ascend upon (though now for the most part demolished) three hundred fourscore and nine steps or degrees; each degree being three foot high, and two foot and a half broad. By which computation, they amount in heigh, to the aforesaid Relation, allowing to every foot, twelve inches. At last having ascended upon the South side of this greatest Pyramid to the top, and that with great difficulty, because of the broken degrees here and there; I was much ravished, to see such a large four squared platform, all of one entire stone, which covered the head; each square extending to seventeen foot of my measure.  
It is yet a great marvel to me, by what Engine, they could bring it up so safe to such a height: But as I conceive it, they behoved certainly still to raise it, and take it with them, as they advance the Work, otherwise the wit nor power of man, could never have done it. Truly the more I beheld this strange Work, the more I was stricken in admiration: For before we ascended, or came near to this Pyramid, the top of it seemed as sharp as a pointed Diamond; but when we were mounted thereon, we found it so large, that in my opinion, it would have contained a hundred men.  
In the bottom whereof we found a great Cell, 
The greatest Pyramid of the three.  and within that through a strait and narrow passage, a four angled Room, wherein there was standing the Relics of a huge and ancient Tomb, where belike he that was the first founder of this Pyramid was enclosed. From the top of this Pyramid, our janisary did shoot an Arrow in the air with all his force, thinking thereby it should have fall'n to the ground; but as we descended downwards, we found the Arrow lying upon the steps, scarce half way to the ground: From this, we came to the middle Pyramid which a far off looked somewhat higher than the other two, but when we came to the root thereof, we found it not so, for the stonework is a great deal lower, but the advancement of the height, is only because of a high ground whereon it standeth.  
It is of the same fashion of the first, but hath no degrees to ascend upon, neither hath the third Pyramid any at all; being by antiquity of time, all worn and demolished, yet an admirable work to behold such Mass, and (as it were) erected Mountains all of fine Marble. The reason why they were first founded is by many ancient Authors so diversely conjectured, that I will not meddle therewith. They were first called Pharaones.  
Yet the first and greatest is said to have been builded by Cheops, who in this work employed 100000 men the space of twenty years: In which time, the charges of Garlic, 
The charges of the greatest Pyramid.  roots, and Onions only came to 1600 talents of silver; the Basis whereof in circuit, was sixty Acres of ground. It is recorded by josephus, and conjectured by many good witnesses, that the Bricks which the Children of Israel were enforced to make, where partly employed about the insides of these Pyramids, whose outsides were adorned with Marble; neither can I forget the drift of that effeminate Cheops, who in end wanting money did prostitute his daughter to all comers, by which detestable means he finished his building, and she besides the money due unto her unnatural Father, desired for herself of every man that had the use of her body one stone, of whom she got so many, that with them she builded the second Pyramid, almost equal to the first. Besides these three huge ones, there are a number of smaller, whereof some were transported to Rome in the time of her supreme domination.  
Between the biggest Pyramid, and Nilus, I saw a Colosse, or head of an Idol, of a wonderful greatness; being all of one Marble stone, erected on a round Rock: it is of height (not reckoning the Column) about 815 foot, and of circuit, 68 Plini gave it the name Sphingo, and reported much more of the bigness, largeness, and length of it: but howsoever he erred in his description, yet I resolve myself, it is of so great a quantity, that the like thereof (being one entire piece) the world affordeth not, and may be reckoned amongst the rarest Wonders: Some say, that anciently it was an Oracle, the which so soon as the Sun set, would give an answer to the Egyptians, of any thing by them demanded.  
In our way as we returned, our Dragoman showed us (on the bank of Nilus) where a Crocodile was killed the year before, by the ingenious policy of a Venetian Merchant, being licentiated by the Bassaw. The match whereof for bigness and length, was never seen in that River, whose body was twenty two foot long, and in compass of the shoulders eight foot, who thus was slain: This beast for four years together kept always about one place of the River, being seven miles above Cayre; where for a mile of ground, there was no tillage nor pastorage, being for fear of him laid waste: and nevertheless he had devoured above forty six persons: his custom was to come forth of the River every morning, about our eight hours; where here and there he would lurk waiting for his prey till ten, for longer from water he could not stay.  
This Venetian leaving his ship at Alexandrea, 
A resolute Venetian Merchant.  and coming to Cayre, was informed by the Consul my adversary of the great spoil done by this beast: and herewith generously he undertook to kill it, the Vice gerent licentiating him: Whereupon going to his ship, fetched thence his Gunner and a piece of Ordnance to Cayre.  
The next day in the afternoon, he being well horsed, and accompanied with twenty janissaries, the piece is carried to the Crocodiles accustomary place of forthcoming: where straight there was an Ass slain, and hung upon two standing and a thwarting tree, with his open belly to the flood, and same twelve score paces therefrom: Behind this carcase▪ about other twelve score, 
The kill of a great Crocodile.  the piece was planted, and levelled at the Carrion, being charged with cut iron; and a train of powder about the touchhole, and above it a night house to keep the train dry from the night's serene; having a cock fastened thereto, and in it a burning match, to which a string was tied: Then forty paces behind the piece, was there a pit digged to hide the Gunner; wherein he was put, holding the strings end in his hand, and his head veiled with a wooden cover.  
After this, and about midnight, the Horsemen retired themselves two miles off: The morning come, and the convenient time: the Crocodile courts the land: where when he saw the carcase, came grumbling to it, and setting his two foremost feet on the Carrions middle, begun to make good cheer of the entrails: whereat the squink-eyed Gunner perceiving his time, drew the string, and giving fire, off went the piece, and shot the Crocodile in three parts: well, his deadly wounded, and making a horrible noise, the Gunner lay denned, and durst not stir; meanwhile the beast striving to recover the water, tired and lying close on his belly there he died.  
After the shot, the horsemen drew near, and finding the beast slain, relieved the Gunner, and brought with them this monstrous creature to Cayre; where now his skin hangeth in the Consul's Hall, which I saw during my stay in his house. For this piece of service, the Merchant was greatly applauded, & scorned to take from the City 500 Sultan's of Gold as a reward for his pains, which they freely offered him, and he as freely refused.  
Now to discourse of Nilus, this flood irriguateth all the low plains of the Land, once in the year, which inundation, beginneth usually in the latter end of july; and continueth to the end of August: Which furnisheth with Water all the Inhabitants; being the only drink of the vulgar Egyptians; and of such virtue, that when Pescennius Niger saw his Soldiers grumble for Wine: What (saith he) do you grumble for Wine, having the Water of Nilus to drink? And now because many scholars, 
The true knowledge of the flowing Nilus.  and learned men, are merely mistaken about the flowing of Nilus, I will both show the manner and quality or course of its inundation, and thus. There is a dry pond called Machash digged near unto the brink of the river, in midst whereof standeth a pillar of eighteen Cubits height, being equal with the profundity of the ditch, whereby they know his increasing: and in the year following if they shall have plenty or scarcity of things.  
Now between the river and this pond, there are six passages or spouts digged through the Bank; where when the River beginneth to swell, it immediately falls down through the lowest passage into the Pond, and being discovered there comes forth of Cayre certain of the Priests called Darvishes, accompanied with a hundred janissaries, and pitch their Tents round about this Quadrangled pit. In all which time of the Inundation, they make great Feasting, rare Solemnities, with Dancing, Singing, toucking of Kettle drums, sounding of Trumpets, and other ostentations of joy.  
Now as the Water groweth in the River, and so from it debording, so it groweth also upon the Pillar standing in this pond, which pillar is marked from the root to the top, with Brasses, handfuls, a foot, a span, and an inch: And so if it shall happen that the water rise but to ten Brasses, it presageth the year following, there shall be great Death, Pestilence, and Famine. And if it amounteth to twelve Cubits, than the sequel year shall be indifferent. And if it swell to fifteen Brasses, than the next year shall be copious and abundant in all things: And if it shall happen to flow to the top eighteen Brasses, than all the Country of Egypt, is in danger to be drowned and destroyed.  
Now from the body of Nilus, 
Many Scholars mistaken about Nilus.  there are about three thousand Channels drawn through the plain, on which passing Ditches, are all the Boroughs and Towns builded; and through which Channels the river spreads itself through all the Kingdom: Which when scoured of filth and Worms, and the water become clear, than every house openeth their Cistern window and receiveth as much water, as is able to suffice them till the next Inundation: Neither doth ever the River flow any where above the banks, for if it should, it would overwhelm the whole Kingdom.  
All which Channels here, or there do make intercourse for their streams again, to the body and branches of Nilus. Now Stoical fools hold the opinion, that it overfloweth the whole face of the Land, than I pray you, what would become of their Houses, their Bestial, their Corns and Fruits: for the nature of violent streams do ever deface, transplant, and destroy all that they debord upon, leaving slime, mud and sand behind their breaches, and therefore such inunding cannot be called cherishings.  
There are infinite venomous Creatures bred in this river, as Crocodiles, Scorpions, Water-Snakes, grievous misshapen Worms, and other monstrous things, which oft annoy the Inhabitants, and these who Traffic on the Water. This famous flood is in length almost three thousand miles, and hath his beginning under the Equinoctial Line, from montes Lunae, but more truly from the Zembrian Lake in Aethiopia interior, whence i● bringeth the full growth down into Egypt, and in a place of the exterior Aethiopian Alps called Catadupa: The full and roaring of Nile, maketh the people deaf that dwell near to it.  
The infallible reason, 
The reason of the flowing of Nilus.  why Nilus increaseth so every year, at such a time and continuance, is only this; that when the Sun declining Northward to Cancer, and warming with his vigorous face, the Septentrion sides of these Cynthian mountains, the abundant Snow melteth: from whence dissolving in streams; to the Lake Zembria, it ingorgeth Nilus so long as the matter delabiates: For benefit of which River the great Turk is enforced to pay yearly the tribute of fifty thousand Sultan's of Gold to Prester jehan, lest he impede and withdraw the course of Nilus to the Red Sea, and so bring Egypt to desolation: The ground and policy whereof, begun upon a desperate War inflicted upon the Aethiopians by Amurah, which he was constrained to give over, under this pact, and for Nilus' sake.  
The River Nile had many names, for Diodore named it Aetoes, to wit, Eagle, because of its swift passing over the Catadupian heights: It was called also Egyptus of a King so named, that communicated the same to it and to the Country.  
Festus saith it was called Melos, and Plutarch termed it Mela: Epiphanio called it Chrysoroas, that is running or coulant in gold. The Holy Scripture termeth it Seor or Sibor, to wit, Trouble, because of the great noise it bringeth with it to Egypt; and the same Holy Letters call it Gehou, and Physon. The Egyptians wont to name it Nospra; and now presently the Abassines, and Inhabitants of Egypt, name it Abanhu, to wit, the River of a long coarse.  
This River maketh the Isle of Delta in Egypt; 
The Isle of Delta.  so likewise in Ethiopia, that Isle of Meroa so renowned. The ancient Authors, could not agree, touching the mouths of Nilus; for Melo, Strabo, Diodore, and Heredotus place seven; Ptolemy, and others nine; and Pliny eleven. And some modern Authors affirm it hath only four, as Tyrre and Behou allege, dividing itself two leagues below Cayre in four branches, the chiefest two whereof, are of these Damiota and Roseta, but that is false, and so are the opinions of all the rest, for it hath now eight several mouths, and as many branches drawn from its main body.  
The Water of Nile is marvelous sweet above all others in the World, and that proceedeth of the extreme vigour of the Sun, beating continnually upon, it maketh it become more Lighter, Purer and Simple; as likewise arrousing of so many Soils, and his long Course.  
And truly it is admirable, to see this River to grow great when all others grow small; and to see it diminish, when others grow great. So always it is no wonder, that the nature of this River should so increase, when even here, and at home the river of Rhine, hath the like intercourse: and at the same time, through the Town of Geneve, and so to the Mediterranean Sea: Their beginnings being both alike; from the impetuosity of reins, and dissolvings of Snow.  
Egypt was first inhabited by Mifraim, the son of Chus from whom the Arabians name the land Misre, in the Hebrew tongue Misoriae. It was also named Oceana, from Oceanus the second King hereof. Thirdly, Ostriana from Osiris; and now Aegyptus from Aegyptus the surname of Rameses, once a King of great puissance. It borders with Aethiopia, and the Confines of Nubiat on the South. On the North with the Sea Mediterrane: The chiefest ports whereof, are Damieta, and Alexandria, towards the occident, 
The confines of Egypt.  it joineth with the great Lake Bouchiarah, & a dangerous Wilderness confining therewith, supposed to be a part of Cyrene; so full of wild and venomous beasts, which maketh the West part unaccessable: And on the East, with the Isthmus, and Confine of Desartuous Arabia, and a part of the Red Sea through which the people of Israel passed.  
This Country was governed by Kings first, and longest of all other Nations: From Orisis (not reckoning his Regal Ancestors) in whose time Abraham went down to Egypt he and his Successors, were all called Pharaoes'; of whom Amasis, is only worthy mention, who instituted such politic Laws to the ancient Egyptians, that he deserveth to be Catalogized, as founder of this Kingdom.  
This Race continued till Cambyses the second Persian Monarch, made Egypt a member of his Empire: and so remained till Darius Nothus the sixth Persian King from whom they Revolted, choosing Kings of themselves. But in the eighteen year of Nectanebos the seventh King thereafter, Egypt was recovered by Ochus, the eight Emperor of Persia.  
In end Darius being vanquished, and Alexander King thereof, after his Death it fell to the share of Ptolomeus, the son of Lagi, from whom the Kings of Egypt were for a long time called Ptolomeis': of whom Queen Cleopatra was the last, after whose self murder, it was annexed for many years to the Roman Empire, & next to the Constantinopolitan: from whose insupportable burden they revolted, and became tributaries for a small time to Haumar, the third Caliph of Babylon.  
Afterward being oppressed by Almericus King of jerusalem; Noradin a Turkish King of Damascus sent Saracon a valiant Warrior to aid them, who made himself absolute King of the whole Country; 
The alteration of Egypt.  whose offspring succeeded (of whom Saladine was one, the glorious conqueror of the East) till Melechsala, who was slain by his own soldiers the Mamaluks; who were the guard of the Suldans', as the janissaries are to the great Turk, who lately, Anno 1622, have almost made the like mutation in the Turkish Empire, as the Mamaluks did in the Egyptian.  
They made of themselves Sultan's, where by the Mamaluke race continued from the year 1250, till the year 1517, wherein Tonembius, together with his predecessor Campson Gaurus, was overcome by Selimus the first; by whom Egypt was made a Province of the Turkish Empire, & so continueth as yet.  
The length of his Kingdom, is four hundred and fifty English miles, and two hundred broad: the principal seat whereof is the great Cairo, being distant from jerusalem sixteen days journey, or Caravans journals, amounting to 240 of our miles. Some hold that the space of earth, that lieth between the two branches of Damieta, and Roseta was called the lower Egypt▪ now called Delta, under the figure of a Greek letter triangular.  
The head of this great Delta, where Nilus divideth itself, was called Hoptapolis, or Hoptanomia; and Delta it self was called by the Romans Augustamia: Egypt besides the aforesaid names, it had divers Epithets of divers Authors; for Appollodorus termed it the Religion of Melampedes, because of the fertility of it: And Plutarch gave it the name Chimia, because of the holy ceremonies of the Egyptians in worshipping their Gods: The Etymology whereof Ortelius condignly remarked, deriving it from Cham, the son of Noah, so that some hold the opinion, that the Egyptians had their original from Misraim (for so was Egypt called) the son of Chus, that proceeded from Cham Noah's son: The circuit of Delta or the lower Egypt is thought to be 3000. of their stades, which maketh a hundred Spanish leagues.  
In the time of the Ptolomeis' the revenues of this Kingdom were 12000 talents; 
The revenues of Egypt.  so also in the time of the Mamaluks; but now through tyrannical government, and discontinuance of traffic through the red sea, the Turk receiveth no more than three millions yearly; one of the which is free to himself, the other two are distribu●nd to support the charge of his Vicegerent Bassaw, and presidiary soldiers, being 12000 janissaries, besides their thousand of Timariot, which keep Egypt from the incursions and tyranny of Arabs: In Cayre I stayed twelve days, and having bid farewell to Monsieur Beauclaire the Consul who courteously entertained me, the other four French Pilgrims and I embarked at Boulaeque in a boat: And as we went down the River, the chief Towns of note we saw where these, Salmona, Pharesone, Fova, & Abdan. I remember our boat was double hooked with forked pikes of iron round about the sides, for fear of the Crocodiles, who usually leap up on boats and will carry the passenger away headlong in the stream: And yet these 〈◊〉 themselves are devoured by a water-Rat, of whom they taking great pleasure, and play, and gaping widely, the Rat running into his mouth, the other out of joy swalloweth it down, where the Rat for disdain cometh forth at the broad side of his belly, leaving the Crocodile dead. In these parts there is a stone called Aquiline, which hath the virtue to deliver a woman from her pain in child birth. In all this way the greatest pleasure I had, was to behold the rare beauty of certain Birds, called by the Turks Ellock; whose feathers being beautified with the diversity of rarest colours, yield, a far off, to the beholder a delectable show: having also this propriety, the nearer a man approacheth them, the more they lose the beauty of their feathers by reason of the fear they conceive when they see a man. Upon the third day we landed at Rosetta, and came over land with a company of Turks to Alexandria, being 50 miles distant.  
Alexandria is the second port in all Turkey: 
The Town of Alexandria.  It was of old a most renowned City, and was built by Alexander the great but now is greatly decayed, as may appear by the huge ruins therein: It hath two havens, the one whereof is strongly fortified with two Castles, which defend both itself and also Porto vecchio: The fields about the Town are sandy, which engender an infectious air, especially in the month of August, and is the reason why strangers fall into bloody fluxes and other heavy sicknesses. In my staying here, I was advised by a Ragusan Consul, to keep my stomach hot, to abstain from eating of fruit, and to live soberly, with a temperate diet: The rule of which government, I strove diligently to observe, so did I also in all my travels prosecute the like course of a small diet, and was often too small against my will, by the means whereof (praised be God) I fell never sick till my return to France.  
This City is mightily impoverished since the Trading of Spices that were brought through the red Sea, to Egypt, and so over Land to Alezandria & its Seaport: Whence the Venetian dispersed them over all Christendom; but are now brought home by the backside of Africa, by the Portugals, English, and Flemings, which maketh both Venice, and Alezandria fare the worse, for want of their former traffic, and commerce in these Southern parts: whence Venice grew the mother nurse to all Europe for these Commodities, but now altogether spoilt thereof, and decayed by our Western Adventures, in a longer course for these Indian soils.  
This City was a place of great Merchandise, & in the Nycen Council was ordained to be one of the four Partiarchall seas, 
The four Patriarchal Seas  the other three are Antiochia, jerusalem, and Constantinople. Here in Alexandria was that famous Library which Ptolomeus Philadelphus filled with 700000 volumes: It was he that also caused the 72 Interpreters, to translate the Bible: Over against Alexandria, in the little Isle Pharos in the which for the commodity of sailors the aforesaid King builded a watch-towre of white Marble; being of so marvellous a height, that it was accounted one of the seven Wonders of the world: the other six, being the Pyramids, the Tomb Mausolaca, which Helicarnassus Queen of Caria caused built in honour of her husband: the Temple of Ephesus, the Walls of Babylon, the Colossus of Rhodes, and the Stat●e of jupiter Olympicus at Elis in Greece, which was made by Phidias, an excellent workmaster in Gold and Ivory, being in height 60 Cubits.  
Expecting fifteen days here in Alexandria for passage: great was the heat the French men and I endured in somuch that in the day time, we did nought but in a low room, besprinkled the water upon ourselves, and all the night lie on the top or platform of the house, to have the air; where at least bidding good-night to our Greekish Host, we embarked in a Sclavonian ship, belonging to Ragusa; and so set our faces North for Christendom; in which ship I was kindly used, and Christianlike entertained both for victuals and passage. The Winds somewhat at the beginning favouring us, we weighed Anchors, and set forward to Sea: leaving ●he Coast of Cyrene Westward from us, which lieth between Egypt by the Sea side, and Numidia, or Kingdom of Tunnis.  
The chief cities therein are Cyrene, 
The fabulous Country of Cyrene.  Arsin●a, and Barca whence the whole Cyrenian Country taketh the modern name Barca Marmorica, anciently Penta Politanat. The Soil is barren of Waters and Fruits, the people rude and theftuous: yet it hath bred the most ingenious spirits as Calimachus the Poet, Aristippus the Philosopher; Eratosthenes the Mathematician, and Simon of Cyrene, whom the jews compelled to carry our Saviour's Crosse.  
In this Province, which is now reckoned as a part of Egypt, stood the Oracle of jupiter Hammon, in the great Wilderness confining with Lybia: Whither when Alexander travailed he saw for four day's 〈◊〉; neither Man, Beast, Bird, Tree, nor River: Where, when arrived, the flattering Priests, professed him to be the son of jupiter: which afterwards (being hurt with an Arrow) ●ee found false, saying; Omnes ne vocant filium jovis, sed 〈◊〉 sagitta me probat esse mortalem. West from Cyrene ●ll the Kingdoms of Tunnis, Tremisen, Algiers, Fez, ●nd a part of Morocco even to the Gibilterre, or fretum Hercule●m, under a general name now called Barbary, and hardly can be distinguished by the barbarous Moors.  
In the time of this our Navigation for Christendom, there died seventeen of our Mariners, and all our four French Pilgrims, two of them being grey haired, and 60 years of age, which bred no small grief, and fear to us all, thinking that they had died of the plague, for it was exceeding rife in Alexandria from whence we came.  
The French men had only left unspent among them all, threescore and nine Chequins of Gold, which the Master of the Ship meddled with, and because they were Papists, and they and I always adverce to other, I could not claim it. Their dead Corpses were cast over Board, 
Four● French Pilgrims dead.  in a boundless Grave to feed the fishes, and we then expecting too the like mutation of Life; So likewise in our passage, we were five sundry times assailed by the Cursares and Pirates of Tunnis and Biserta; yet unprevailing, for we were well provided with good Munition, and skilful, Martial, and resolute Ragusans, and a Gallant ship.  
Our Ships burden being six hundred Tons, did carry twenty eight pieces of Ordnance, two of them brazen; and fourscore strong and strenuous Sailors, besides nine Merchants and Passengers. The greatness of our ship did more terrify the roguish Runagates, than any violent defence we made: for they durst never set on us, unless they had been three together; and yet we little reregarded them, in respect of our long reaching Ordnance, and expert gunner's: in these circumstances of time, I remember, almost every day, we should see flocks of flying fishes scudding upon the curling waves, so long as their fins be wet, which grow from their back, as feathered wings do from Fowls: But when they grow dry, they are forced to fall down and wet them again and then fly along. Their flight will be the length of a Cables Rope, untouching Water; and in this their scudding, it is thought the Dolphin is in pursuing them, who is their only enemy in devouring and feeding upon them; 
Flying fish.  whose bigness and length are like to Mackerel, but greater headed and shouldered. Meanwhile in these our Courses were we seven weeks crossed with Northernly Winds, ever Tackling and boarding from the Afric Coasts, to the Carminian shore, in all which time we saw no Land, except the boisterous billows of glassy Neptune: And as Ovid said, in the like case crossing the Ionian seas, Nil nisi pontus et aer, viz.  
Nothing but Waves I view, whereships do float  
And dangers lie: huge Whales do tumbling play;  
Above my head, Heaven's star-imbroidred coat,  
Whose vault contains, two eyes for night and day.  
Far from the Main, or any Marine Coast,  
'twixt Borean blasts, and billows we are tossed.  
If Ovid, in that straight jonean deep,  
Was tossed so hard, much more am I on Seas  
Of larger bounds; where staff and Compass Keep  
Their strict observance, yet in this unease  
Of tackling Board's, we so the way make short,  
That still our course, draws nearer to the Port.  
Between the stream, and silver spangled sky,  
We rolling climb, then hurling fall beneath;  
Our way is Serpent like, in Meeds which lie,  
That bows the Grass, but never makes no path:  
But fitter like young maids, and youths together,  
Run here and there, alwhere, and none know whether.  
Our way we Know, and yet unknown to other,  
And whiles misknown to us, before we di●e;  
The hand, and compass, that govern the Ruther  
Do often err: although the Pilots strive  
With Card and plot; their reckonings sometimes fall,  
Too narrow, short, too high, too wide, too small.  
To descon this, remark when they set land,  
Some this, some that, do guess, this Hill, that Cape;  
For many hours, their skill in suspense stand  
Terming, this sore, that head-land, points the Map:  
Which when mistake, this forged excuse goes clear,  
O such! and such a land, it first did peer.  
In all which strife, stressed Sailors have the pain  
By drudging, pulling, hailing, standing to it  
In cold and rain, both dry a●d wet, they strain  
Themselves to toil, none else but they must do it:  
We passengers behold, with belching throats  
Only their task achieved in quivering Boats,  
Then since but air and water I perceive,  
One's hot and moist, the other moist and cold;  
It's earth that's cold and dry, I longing crave,  
And fire that's dry and hot, I wishing would;  
Then thundering Aeole, from thy seven rigged Towers,  
Soon waft us o'er, forth from these glassy Bowers.  
My wish is come, I set each bulging sail  
For pride begins to swell, between two sheets;  
She ticklish grows, as wanton of her tail,  
And lays her side, close where the weather beats;  
Both prone and puppe, do answer so the Helm,  
The Steersman sings, no grief his joy can whelm.  
By night our watch we set by, day our sight,  
And thirl our Sails, if Pirates but appear;  
We rest resolved, it's force makes Cowards fight,  
Though none more dare, than they that have most fear,  
It's courage makes us rash, and wisdom cold,  
Yet wise men, stout, and stung, grow Lion bold.  
Now we look out for Land, now we see Mal●!  
That little famous Isle, though sterrile soil;  
Where we'll some Bay, or Creek seek to assault  
Whence Anchorage, and safety Ships recoil:  
Now, now, let Anchor fall, we're in the Road,  
Safely arrived, by providence of God.  
This done, as time avouched, I kindly bad,  
My Consorts all adieu, then came ashore,  
Where I such plenty of great favours had,  
That scarce the like, I ever found before.  
These white crossed Knights, with their eight pointed crosses,  
Embraced my sight, with it, my toils, and tosses:  
So ends my Verse, and so I'll strait disclose  
The Isle, the Folks, their Manners, in plain Prose.  
The greatest cause of our Arrival here, was in regard of our fresh water that was spent and therefore constrained to bear into this Isle: Which was my sole desire, wishing rather to Land here, to see the Order of our Knights of Christendom, then to arrive at Ragusa in the Adriaticke Gulf, where I had been before. Our Anchor's being grounded, and our Boat ready to court the shore, 
A joyful arrival in Malta,  I ●ad farewell to all the Company, and in ● singular respect to my generous Captain, who would have nothing for my victuals and trnasportation from Egypt; except a few relics of jerusalem: The boat being launched, and we landed in the haven, I accosted a vulgar Tavern, and there lodged.  
This City is divided in two, the old and the new Malta, from which the Isle taketh the name; it is a large and populous place, and strongly fortified with invincible walls, and two impregnable Castles, St. Hermes, and St. Angelo; S. Michael, being distant from both: here the great Master, or Prince for that year being a Spaniard made much of me for jerusalem's sake; so did also a number of these gallant Knights, to whom I was greatly obliged. And withal to my great contentment, I rancountred here with a country Gentleman of mine, being a soldier there named William Douglas, who afterward for his long & good service at sea was solemnly Knighted, & made one of their order. Whose fidele and manly services have been since as plausibly regarded by the Maltazes, as Monsieur Creichton his worth in learning & excellent memory, rest admired in Italy, but especially by the noble Gonzagaes, and dependant friends of the house of Mantua; for whose loss & accidental death they still heavily bemoan; acknowledging that the race of that princely stock, by God's Judgements was cut off, because of his untimely death.  
Malta was called Melita, mentioned Acts 28. 1, 2. where the Viper leapt on Paul's hand; 
The Isle of Malta.  I saw also the Greek wherein he was shipwracked: This Island may properly be termed the Fort of Christendom, yet a barren place, and of no great bounds, for their corns, and Wines come daily by Barks from Sicilia: but it yieldeth good store of Pomegranates, Citrons, Cottons, Oranges, Lemons, Figs, Melons, and other excellent fruits. The Knights of Malta had their beginning at Acre in Palestina, from thence to the Rhodes, and now exposed to this rocky Isle. They are pertinacious foes to Infidels, for such is the oath of their order, continually making war and incursions against them, to their power: being strengthened also with many soldiers, and their Captains are surnamed Knights of Malta, and so through a great part of Christendom it is a most honourable Order: They are not permitted to marry, the most part of whom being younger brothers: the reason was, because not being entangled to wife and children, they might be the more resolute to adventure their lives in the Christian service; but therein they were mightily decayed, and their valour no way answerable to that it hath been when their ancestors lived in the Rhodes and holy Land; having had these eighteen years past little or no good fortune at all.  
This Isle was given in possession to these Knights of St. john, by the Emperor Charles the fifth, and King of Spain; being newly expelled from the Rhodes by Solyman the magnificent, Anno 1522. And afterward the Turk not contented therewith, and mindful all utterly to extermine their power, came with a huge Armado and assailed Malta, 
An invincible victory.  Anno 1565. when Valetta was great master, who so courageously withstood their fury, that the Turks were defeated, and forced to return.  
This Island is ten leagues in length, and three broad: the earth whereof being three foot deep, is the cause, why it is not so fertile, as the climate might afford▪ It containeth besides the City, forty seven Villages and nine Cassales; the peasants or natural Inhabitants whereof, are of the African complexion, tawny and Sunburnt: and their language semblable to the Barbarian-speech, without any great difference, both tongues being a corrupt Arrabick: And not unlike therein to the Italians from the Latin, or the vulgar Greek from the ancient; yet the modern Greek is nearer the ancient, than the Italian is the Latin: These rural Maltezes are extremely bend, in all their actions, either to good or evil, wanting fortitude of mind, and civil discretion, they can not temper the violent humours of their passions, but as the head strong-tide, so their dispositions turn in the superfluous excess of affections.  
They follow the Roman Church, though ignorant of the way, 
The nature of the Maltezes.  and their women be lovely fair, going head-covered with black veils, and much inclined to licentiousness; their beauties being borrowed from help more than nature: for now it is a common practice amongst decayed beauties, banquerouted by time or accidents, to hide it from others eyes with Art, and from their own with false glasses. But (alas) the graces and beauties of the soul ought more to be cared for, and to have the first place and honour, above these counterfeit or outward shows of the body; and the beatuy and lovely proportion of the body, should dreferred before the effeminate deckings, that the body doth rather carry then enjoy: since it often happeneth; that a foul and deformed carcase hath a fair and rich wardrobe. In this Town of Malta there are many Turkish & Moorish slaves, very rudely treated, yet not answerable to that cruelty the slavish Christians endure upon their Galleys in Barhary or Turkey: T●e description of Malta, I postpone to the succeeding relations of my second Travels; and after twelve days staying here, limbarked in a Frigar with other passengers, and arrived at Sicily in the Southeast corner of Sicilia, being threescore miles distant.  
From thence coasting the shore fifty miles to Siracusa, Irancountred by the way, in a clifty Greek close by the seaside, a Moorish Brigantine, with twelve oars on each side, charged with Moors, who had secretly stayed there a night and a day stealing the people away labouring on the fields: At which sudden sight, and being hard by them, I stopped my pace. Whereupon, about twenty Moors broke out upon me, with shables & slings: But my life and liberty being dear to me, my long traced feet became more nimble in twelve score paces, than they could follow in eighteen; for I behoved to fly back the same way I came: where when freed, I hastened to the next Watchtower marine set, and there told the Sentinel, how a Moorish Brigantine was lying within two miles at an obscure cleft: 
A Moorish Brigantine.  and how hardly I escaped their hands: where upon he making a fire on the top of the tower, and from him all the Watchtowers along, gave presently warning to the country; so that in a moment, them of the Villages came down on horse and foot, and well armed, and demanding me seriously of the truth, I brought them with all possible celerity to the very place: where forthwith the Horsemen broke upon them, wounding divers, before they were all taken, for some fled to the Rocks, and some were in the covered fields hunting their prey: At last they were all seized upon, and fast tied two, and two in iron chains, and six Sicilians relieved whom they had stolen and thralled: Whence they were carried to Syracuse: I went also along with them, where by the way the people blessed me, and thanked God for mine escape, and me for discovering them: from Syracuse, (being condemned to the galleys) upon the third day they were sent to Palermo, being 36 in number.  
They gone, and I reposing here, the Governor of that place, for this piece of service, and my travels sake did feast me three days, and at my departure would have rewarded me with gold, so also the friends of them that were relieved, which if I took or not judge you, that best can judge on discretion, This City is situate on a Promontory, that butteth in the Sea, having but one entry, & was once the capital seat of the Kingdom, though now by old tyrannies & late alterations of time, it is only become a private place. Yet girded about with the most fragrant fields, for dainty fruits, & delicate Muscatello that all Europe can produce.  
From this place, over-trafing other fifty miles to Catagna, situate at Aetna's foot; I measured the third fifty miles to Messina. Where now I cease to discourse any further of this Island, till my return from Africa, being my second voyage: For true it is, double experience, deeper Knowledge; where then punctually in my following order, the Reader I hope shall find his desired satisfaction.  
From Messina, I embarked in a Neapolitan Boat loaded with Passengers; 
An happy arrival.  whence shoaring along for four hundred miles, the higher and lower Portuguese Coast, with a part of the Lavorean lists, upon the twelfth day, we landed at Naples. Where being disbarked, I gave God thanks upon my flexed knees for my safe arrival in Christendom and meeting there with the Earl of Bothwell, and Captain George Hepburne, I embraced the way to Rome, being six score and ten miles' distance: where I stole one nights lodging privately, and on the morrow early departing thence, and crossing Tiber, I visited these Towns in Italy before I courted the Alps, Sienna, Florence, Luca, Pisa, Genoa, Bullogna, Parma, Pavia, Piacenza, Mantua, Milane, and Torine: the commendation of which Cities rest revolved in these following Verses.  
Illustrate at Saenas, patriae facundia Lingua,  
Splendida solertes, nutrit Florentia Cives;  
Liberaluca tremit, ducibus vicina duobus:  
Flent Pisa amissum, dum contemplantur honorem:  
Genua habet portum, mercesque domesque superbas:  
Excellit studiis, facundo Bononia cunctis,  
Commendant Parmam, lac, caseus, atque butirum,  
Italicos versus, prefert Papia Latinis;  
Non caret Hospitiis, per pulchra placentia caris:  
Mantua gaudet aquis, ortu decorata Maronis,  
Est Mediolanum jucundum nobile magnum,  
Taurinum exornant virtus, pietasque, fidesque.  
Having passed Torine, and its Princely Court, whose present Duke might have been the mirror of nobility, I kept my way through Piedmont or Pedemontano, the sister of Lombardy, and second Garden of Europe; and crossing the steep and Snowy Mountain of Mont Cola di Tenda, 
The Ligurian Alpe.  the highest Hill of all the Alps: I found on its top that it reserveth always Gradinian mist, for a mile of way long stakes, set in the Snow each one a Spears length from another to guide the Passenger his dangerous way; of the which stoops if he fail, he is lost for ever.  
After I had traversed this difficult passage; I had two day's journey in climbing and thwarting the Rockey and intricated hills of Liguria, over which Hannibal had so much ado to conduct his Army to Italy; making a way through the Snow, with Fire, Vinegar, and Wine When it was said of him, Viam aut inveniet Hannibal, aut faciet: Leaving these Mountains behind me, I arrived at Niece in Provance situate on the Mediterran Sea; and passing the Towns Anti●o and Cana, to night at Furges; there were three French murderers set upon me in a thievish Wood twelve miles long; one of which had dogged me hither from Niece: Where having extremely given me a fearful chase, for a long league, and not mending themselves, they gave me over. Well, in the midst of the Wood I found an Hostery, and in it, two Women, and three young Childerens, with whom I stayed and lodged all night.  
After I had supped and going to bed, in came these aforesaid Villains, accompanied with my Host; where, when seen, 
A happy escape from murder.  they strait accused me for my flight, and threatening me with strokes, and consulted my Death. Then I cried to my Host for help, but he stood dumb, for he was their Companion, and to second their intention his wife made fast the lower door. Whereat being moved with deadly fear, I pulled my Turkish gown from my back, and opening my Sacket; said; Now Christian Gentlemen, I know you are distressed, and so am I, come search my clothes and Budget, and if you find what you look for, let me die: Alas, I am a poor stranger, newly come from jerusalem, and the sepulchre of Jesus Christ, and after long travails, and lo there is my Patent: And concerning my flight, I swear, I only fled for the safety of my life, but not for the preservation of my money, for come see I have none: my grief is that I have it not for you: Good gentlemen consider the dangers that I have passed amongst Infidels, and let not your Christian hands rob me of my turmoiled life▪ having nought, wherefore you should, were a lamentable thing to do.  
This spoken, and much more, they never seatched me, nor touched my Wallet, but went to Counsel, where they concluded upon my forwardness in opening my body and other things to them, that I had no money, and therefore confirm my life, which for the former respect, and the Holy Graves sake was granted. Whereupon packing up my Relics again; they called for Wine, and drunk divers times to me, and after a long spent conference, their supper making ready, they dismissed me for my bed: Whither, when led by my Hostess, I privily made the door fast suspecting still a sudden death: Well they supped, and were jovial, & at the first Cock, went forth to the wood, and the high way for their own ends.  
All which time I stood Sentinel, and the morning come, my Host confessed, that only he had saved my life; for swearing himself of their former sight; but said he, certainly they are Murderers. Leaving him with dissembling thanks, I arrived at Furges: where I learned that my Host was suspected to be a Cansort with these and many more Murderers: 
A guard of Horsemen for a dangerous Wood  well afterwards I heard, he was arraigned, hanged, and quartered, the house razed, and his wife put to death; and ever since the French King, keepeth a guard of Horsemen there to keep that filthy and dangerous Wood free from Murderers. For now may I say, like to a ship that after a long Voyage, is either in greatest danger, or else cast away entering the Road and Heaven from whence she came, even so was I cast in the most eminent peril, that I had in all my Travails, being on the Frontiers of France, and as it were, (in regard of remoter places) entering the Town wherein I was born.  
Having given humble thanks and lofty prayers to the Almighty for my deliverance, I traversed Provance, and Langadocke, where near to Montpiellier, I met with the French gentleman's Father, whom I relieved from the Galleys in Canea of Candy; who being overjoyed with my sight kindly entreated me for eight days, and highly rewarded me with Spanish Pistols, lamenting for my sake that his son was at Paris: whence continuing my Voyage to Barselona in Catelogna of Spain, I gave over my purpose in going to Madrile, because of dear bedding and scarcity of Victuals: and footing the nearest way through Arragon and Navarre, I crossed at the passage of Sancto johanne, the Pyrhenei mountains: And falling down by Pau, and the river orts, I visited Gascony and Bearne; and from them the Cities of Bordeaux and Rochel: and arriving at Paris whence I first began my Voyage; I also there ended my first, painful, and Pedestriall Pilgrimage. Whence shortly thereafter visiting England's Court, I humbly presented to King james, and Queen Anne of everblessed memories; and this present Majesty King CHARLES, certain rare Gifts and notable Relics, brought from jordan and jerusalem. Where afterward within a year, upon some distaste, I was exposed to my second Peregrination as followeth.  
The end of the first Book of my first Travails.    

The eighth Part, etc.  
Containing the second Book of my second Travails.  

Patriam meam transire non possum, omnium una est, extra hanc nemo projici potest. Non patria mihi interdicitur sed locus, in quamcunque terram venio, in mean venio, nulla exilium est, sed altera patria est. Patria est ubicunque bene est. Si enim sapiens est peregrinator, si stultus exultat. Senec. dear, for.  
LEt not surmises think, ambition led  
My second toils, more flash flown praise to wed,  
Nay; there was reason, and the cause is known  
For Courtly crosses, seldom stay unshown:  
Well, I am sped; through Belgia than I trace;  
And footing Rhine, to Geneve kept my pace,  
Thence crossed I Sinais, Po, and Lombard bounds,  
The hills Apennine the Aetrurian rounds:  
And nighting Rome, Parthenope I passed,  
Even to Rhegio, of Towns Calabriaes' last:  
When Sicilia I viewed, and Aetna Mount;  
And Malta too; as I before was wont:  
Then sight I Tunneis, where old Carthage stood.  
And Scipio shed streams of Numidian blood.  
Hence Tremizen I traced, the Barber's shore  
To Algeir, great Fez, the Atlantic globe;  
The Berdoans Country, and the Lybin sands,  
The Garolines parched bounds, the Sabunck lands;  
And divers soils, of Savage Heathnick bounds,  
Whose names and styles, this Africa story sounds.  
Last in this Lybian lists I' me forced to stay,  
Whence I returned for Tuuneiss the next way;  
And resting there till Aeolus seven rig'd Towers,  
Pressed Triton's back, (crossed Neptune's Paramours)  
And wished me sail; O then with speedy flight  
I board the Ship, and bad the Moors good-night.  
TRue it is, that these who make distinction clearly, and the certain knowledge of things, divide all Sciences in Speculative and Practic. And again, Speculative in Physic, or Philosophy natural, in Mathematics and Metaphysic; placing Medicine under the first: Arithmetic, Music, Geometry, and, Astrology under the second: Uniting thirdly, Theologie, to the which they give also to be adjoined the right Canon.  
As for the science Practice, it doth first embrace the Moral that some divide in three, to wit, Ethicke, that doth form the manners of one man. Secondly in Eccenomick, that doth dispose the actions domestic: The third in Politic that comprehend the actions Civil; concerning the government of Commonwealths, which containeth under if the whole science of right civility. And with Practice, is also placed dialectic, the art of memory, the Grammar, the Rhetoric, to which also may be joined the Art Poetic, and of pillories. But for their particular divisions I am not prolixious, as inutile to my design in hand: divers dedicate themselves to the knowledge of these sciences, not knowing that they forget the most necessary, to wit, the science of the world.  
This is it above all things that preferreth men to honours, and the charges that make great houses and Reipublicks to flourish, 
The necessity use and honour of travels.  and render the actions, and words of them who possess it it, agreeable both to great and small. This science is only acquisted by conversation, and haunting the company of the most experimented: by divers discourses, reports by writs, or by a lively voice in communicating with strangers; and in the judicious consideration of the fashion of the living one with an other. And above all, and principally by Travellers, and Voyagers in divers Regions, and remote places, whose experience confirmeth the true Science thereof; and can best draw the anatomy of humane condition. For which, and other respects, it holdeth true that the heart of man is insatiable being set upon whatsoever object, his predominant affection listeth; neither may reason find place in the violent rapt of such passions for as judgement is seldom compatable with youth, but reserved to old age; so to an unconstant disposition, every accident is a constelation, by which best thoughts are diversified, & driven from the centre of deepest resolution: whiles chose the sound set man, though by opportunity altereth his pace, yet still keepeth his way, serveth time for advantage, not for fear; but as the Sun setteth to rise again, so he changeth his course, to continue his purpose. Wherein touching my particular, whether discontent or curiosity drove me to this second perambulation, it is best reserved to my own knowledge: As for the opinion of others, I little care either for there sweetest temper, or their sourest censure; 
The Author's Apology.  for they that hunt after other men's fancies go rather to the market to sell then to buy, and love better to paint the bare fashion and outsides of themselves, then to rectify or repair, there own defects and errors; where with I leave them. Then it is well, if it please me, it is enough; my pains are mine own, & not others; & therefore best worthy to judge of my own labours, being best known to myself who dearest bought them. And so to to make short this preamble, or conducing compliment, I come to the matter itself.  
Now as I began my first voyage from Paris, so from London must I begin this my second peregrination: whence leaving the Court, the Countery and Dover, I Courted Calais, & so to Gravelling, Dunkirk, & fatal Ostend, whose devasted sight gave my Muse this subject.  

To view the ruins of the wasted walls,  
Lo! I am come, bewailing thy disgrace,  
Art thou this Bourge, Bellona so installs  
To be the mirror for a Martial face:  
I, sure it's thou, whose bloody bathing bounds,  
Gave death to thousands, and to thousands wounds.   

What Hostile force, besieged thee poor Ostend:  
With all Engines that ever War devised:  
What martial troops, did valiantly defend  
Thine earthen strengths, and Sconces unsurprised  
By cruel assaults, and desperate defence,  
Thine undeserved name, won honour thence.   

Some deep interred, within thy bosom lie,  
Some rot, some rent, some tore in pieces small:  
Some warlike maimed, some lame, some halting cry:  
Some blown through Clouds, some brought to deadly thrall.  
Whose dire defects, renewed with ghostly moans,  
May match the Theban, or the Trojan groans:   

Base fisher town, that fanged thy nets before,  
And drenched into the deep thy food to win:  
Art thou become a Tragickestage, and more  
Whence bravest wits, brave Stories may begin  
To show the world, more than the world crave,  
Haw all thine entrenched ground, became one grave.   

Thy digged ditches, turned a gulf of blood,  
Thy walls defeat, were reared with fatal bones:  
Thine houses equal with the streets they stood;  
Thy limits come, a Sepulchre of groans:  
Whence Cannons roared, from fiery cracking smoke  
'twixt two extremes thy desolation broke.   

Thou God of War, whose thundering sound do fear  
This circled space placed here below the rounds,  
Thou in oblivion hast Sepulchrized here,  
Earth's dearest life, for now what else redounds  
But sighs and sobs, when treason, sword, and fire,  
Have thrown all down, when all thought to aspire.   

Forth from thy marches, and frontiers about  
In sanguine hue, thou died the fragrant fields;  
The camped trenches of thy foes without  
Were turned to blood, for valour never yields  
So bred ambition, honour, courage, hate,  
Long three years' siege, to overthrow thy state.   

At last from threatening terror of despair,  
Thine hemmed defendants, with divided walls  
Were forced to render, than came mourning care  
Of mutual foes, for friends untimely falls:  
Thus lost, and got, by wrong and lawless right  
My judgement thinks thee, scarcely worth the sight:  
But there's the question, when my Muse hath done,  
Whether the victor, or the vanquished won.   
To flee hence in a word, I measured all the Netherlands with my feet in two months' space; the description whereof is so amply set down by modern authors; that it requireth no more: only this, for policies, industries, strong towns, & fortifications, it is the mirror of virtue, & the garden of the Mars; yea & the light of all Europe, that he who hath exactly trod it, may say he hath seen the map of the whole Universe: 
Weiste taken by Spinola.  And now ascendimg to Cleve I came just to Grave Mourice Camp at Rhiese, as Spineola had taken Weisle; between which armies for five weeks I had free intercourse, being kindly respected by both the Generals: for Spineola set me at his own table, and I lay in his second Tent nine nights; the Duke of Newenberge & Don Pietrod Toledo being there both for the time: So with the Prince of Orange, with whom I discoursed divers times, was the Marquis of Brandiburg, certain Nobles, and foreign Ambassadors. All which time, O how it grieved me to see the tyranny of the Spaniards daily executed upon the distressed Protestants of Weisle, over whom they domineered like Devils: for these afflicted Citizens, being heavily oppressed, by their unsupportable usage, were beleaguered with their friends, when they were held captive by their enemies; and obeying necessity, stayed their bodies within the walls, though their minds were without, and entirely with the assailants.  
Bidding adieu to these Armies, and accompanied with a young Gentleman David Bruce, the L. of Clekmanan his son, whom I conducted to Italy: scarcely had we outstripped Rhineberg (where Colonel Edmond was slain) a Dutch mile, till we were both robbed of our cloaks and pocket-monies, with five soldiers French and Wallones; and that within a Village, women and children beholding us, but no man to relieve us, they being with Carts serving Spineolaes' Campe.  
Whence the next day approaching Culloine, 
The fabulous miracles of Culloin.  and bills of Change answered, we visited the falsely supposed Tombs of the three Kings that came to Bethleem, who as the Romanists say, lie interred there. O filthy and base absurdness for their holy Mother Church to confirm hellish and erroneous lies; for these Kings came from the East, and from Chaldea, and not from the North: Or if they will have them to die there and so buried, surely this is even such another damnable error, surpassing tradition, as their wand'ring jew, the Shoemaker of jerusalem is, of whom in Rome, they have wrote ten thousand fables and fopperies: from this we visited the 11000 Virgins heads, Martyrs, indeed we saw the Church-walls all indented about with bare skulls, but whose heads they were, the Lord knoweth, from thence a Gentleman brought us to a Chapel, within a vineyard, called the Chapel of miracles; the original whereof was thus. Upon a Festival day, being Vintage time, there came a Peasant to the Town, and passing by the Vines (as there is a number within the walls) did eat his belly full of the Grapes; and thereafter hearing a Mass, was confessed, and received the Sacrament: And returning the same way he came, and just where he had eaten the Grapes, he fell a vomiting, and casting up with what he had eaten, the Holy Sacrament, 
A forged miracle.  it strait turned in the likeness of a new borne Babe, being bright and glorious. Well, the amazed fellow, ran back and told his Confessor, what was done, and his offence who had eaten Grapes before the Reception of the Eucharist. The Confessor told the Bishop, where he, and other Prelates coming to the place, and beholding, as it were an Angel, grew astonished.  
In the end they wrapped up their little dead god in a cambric veil, & there buried it, building this Chapel above the place: where ever since there is a world of lying miracles done: Lo these are the novelties of Cullen.  
Thence ascending the Rhine, and coasting Heidelberg, I saluted the Princess Palatine, with certain rare Relics of the Holy Land. And leaving Monsieur Bruce there till my return, I went for Norrenberg to discover the fix Germane deaths, whom I had buried in the Deserts, and Grand Cairo of Egypt, for the two Barons were subject to the marquis of Hanspauch: Where having met with some of their Brethren, Sisters, and Kinsmen, and declared to them their deaths, I was presently carried to their Prince the marquis, to whom I related the whole Circumstances. Whereupon a brother of the one Baron, and a sister of the other, were instantly invested in their Land; and I likewise, by them all greatly regarded and rewarded. And after ten days feasting, reviewing Heidelberg, mine associate and I set forward for Helvetia, or Switzerland.  
This country is divided in thirteen Cantons, six whereof are Protestants, and six Papists, the odd Canton being likewise half and half. The most puissant whereof is Biern, whose Territory lying along the lake reacheth within a leagve of Geneve. The people, and their service to most Christian Princes, are well known, being Manly, Martial and trusty faithful.  
Here in the Canton of Bierne near to Vrbs, we went and saw a young woman, who then had neither eat, nor drunk, nor yet excremented for thirteen years, being truly qualified by her Parents, friends, Physicians, and other Visitors. She was always Bed-fast, and so extenuated, that her Anatomised body carried nought but Sinew, skin, and bones, yet was she always mindful of God. 
A woman fasting fourteen years.  And the year after this time, her body returned again to the natural vigour, in appetite and all things: and married a husband, bearing two children, died in the fifth year thereafter.  
The day following we entered Geneve, where viewing the Town, the chief Burgo-masters, the seven Ministers, and the four Captains were all familiarly acquainted with me. The Ministers one night propining me with a Bible, newly Translated in the Italian tongue, by one of themselves borne in Milane, told me there was a Masse-Priest six Leagues off a curate of a Village in Madame du longeviles Country, who had gotten in his own Parish, three Widows and their three several Daughters with child, and all about one time: and for this his Luxurious Cullions was brought to Dijon to be Executed: Desiring me to go see the manner, the next day (leaving Master Bruce with them) I went hither, and upon the sequel day, I saw him hanged upon a new Gallows, as high as a house: The three mothers & their three Daughters were set before him, being Gravidato, whose sorrowful hearts, and eye gushing tears for their sin and shame, were lamentable to behold: the incestuous Bugerono, begging still mercy and pardon for dividing their legs, & opening their wretched Wombs. Lo there is the chastity of the Romish Priests, who forsooth may not marry, and yet may miscarry themselves in all abomination especially in Sodomy, which is their continual pleasure and practise. Returning to Geneve, & acquainting the Magistrates with his Confession, for they are great Intelligencers, I wrote this literal Distich.  
Glance, Glorious Geneve; Gospell-Guiding Gem;  
Great God Govern, Good Geneves Ghostly Game.  
The lake of Geneve is sixteen Leaguhs in length, and two broad, at the South-west end whereof standeth the Town, 
The Lake of Geneve, and the River Rhone.  through whose middle runneth the River of Rhone, whose Head and body beginneth from the Lake among the very houses. The nature of which River is not unlike to Nilus, for when all other River's decrease (being in Summer) this increaseth. The reasons proceeding from the excessive Snow that lie upon the Sangalian and Grisonean Alps, which cannot melt, till about our longest day, that the force and face of the Sun dissolve it. And so ingorging the Lake, it giveth Rhone such a body that it is the swiftest River in Europe. The Town on both sides the stood is strongly fortified with rampired walls, and counter-banding Bulwarks; the Ditch without and about being dry, is mainly pallasaded with wooden stakes, for preventing of sudden Scallets. Many assaults have this handful of people suffered by Land and Water from the Savoyean Duke; the recital whereof would plunge me in prolixity; and therefore committing that Light shining Zion, and her Religious Israelites, to the tuition of the Almighty, I stepped over the Alps to Torine.  
Here is the residence of the Dukes of Savoy, 
The first beginning of the Dukes of Savoy.  whose beginning sprung first from the House of Saxon: For Berold or Berauld, being a near Cousin to the Emperor Otton the Third, and brother to the Saxon Duke; the Emperor gratified him with these Lands of Savoy, and parts of Piedmont; where he and his Successors continued four hundred years under the Title of Earls: until the Emperor Sigismond, at the Counsel of Constance, did create Amee, the eight Earl of his name Duke. And so beginning with him to this present Duke now living, named Charles Emanuel, there have been only eight Dukes, and some of them of short lives. And yet of all the Christian Dukes, the most Princely Court is kept here, for Gallants, Gentry, and Knights.  
At the same time, of my being there, this present Duke had wars with his own brother in Law Philp the Third, about the Marquesade of Montferrat, and Duchy of Mantua, the issue whereof, but retorted to the Duke a redoubling disadvantage; though now it be gone from the Gonsagaes to the French Duke of Naviers. This Country of Piedmont is a marvellous fruitful and plain Country, and wonderful populous, like to the River sides of Arno round about Florence: Insomuch that a Venetian demanding a Piedmont Cavalier, what Piedmont was? Replied, it was a Town of three hundred miles in circuit, meaning of the Habitations and populosity of the Soil.  
The rest of the surnames of the Italian Dukes are these, viz. that of Parma is Farnese, signifying Partridges; that of Modena is Astie, that of Florence de Medicis; that of Urbine, Francisco Maria, and the last Duke of Mantua, Gonsaga; the Duchy of Ferrara, being dissolved, is converted to the Pope's patrimony.  
Leaving Piedmont, and coasting the sassinious shore of Genoa's revieroe, I ported Ligorn, the great Duke's Sea-haven; where I left Mr Bruce with a Galley Captain a voluntary Soldier; and inclining along to Florence by the way at Pistoia, I found a comfortable cross; for I viewing the market place after supper, and carrying a French Poniard in my pocket, 
A comfortable cross.  the head of it was espied by a Badgello, Captain of the Sergeants, who strait gripped me, bore me to prison, and clapped me in a Dungeon robbing me of all my moneys and Poniard; and Posting that might to Florence; on the morrow show the Justice there a Stiletto of his own: upon which I was condemned to row in the Galleys for a year, else to pay a hundred Ducats: He stayed there three days in this time was I discovered to the Governor of Pistoia, a noble Gentleman, and being brought before him, and acquainting him with the undeserved cruelty of the Badgello: not that I never wore a Stiletto, but under pretext of that, had robbed me of threescore and twelve pieces of Gold: Whereupon the Governor perceiving the knavery of the Villain, and that he had not acquainted him with my apprehending, to whose place it belonged, he grew discontented and forthwith sent post to his Highness, showing him the truth of the business: Whereupon the Badgello was sent back to the Governor with whom I was domestickly reserved; and being accused before my face of his roguery, could not deny it: well, my gold and my Poniard is restored again, the Badgello banished the territory of Pistoia for ever, with his Wife and Children: and I received in compensation of my abuses, from his Highness' Chamber or Treasury there, fifty Florentine Crowns of gold, being modified by the Duke himself; where at I extolled the knave that wrought his own wrack in seeking my overthrow and brought me such a noble reward.  
Thanking God for this joyful cross, and approaching Florence, I found one john Browne there, whose company I embraced to Sicilia: Whence having privately past Rome, and publicly Naples, we footed along the marine by Salerno, 
Consenza is Calabria.  and courting Consenza the capital seat of Calabria where a Vicegerent remaineth, we reposed there certain days.  
The Town is of no quantity nor quality, in regard of the obscureness and solitariness of the Country, the better sort of their Gentry living at Naples: having left the lower, and entered the higher Calabria, we arrived at the Bourge of Allauria; and the next morrow traversing close and covert mountains twelve miles along, in the midst of our passage we were beset with four Bandits and four Guns: To whom holding up my hand, and imploring for our lives, showing them mine adventures and former travels, they unbend their firelocks, and reading my parent of jerusalem, uncovered their heads, and did me homage, notwithstanding they were absolute murderers: Our lives and liberty is granted, and for a greater assurance, they took us both into a great Thicket of wood, where their timber Cabin stood, and there made merry with us in good Wine and the best cheer their sequestrate Cottage could afford.  
And now because there were Forty more Bandits their companions among these mountains, one of themselves for our safeguard, came along with us, and as near Castellucia as he durst; making me swear that I should not show the Baron of that place of their private residence, neither that I met with them at all; which I freely did, and so gave him many hearty, and deserved thanks.  
These Bandits or men-slayers, 
The liberty of Bandits in Calabria.  will come into any free Town in the night when they please, and recovering either a Church or Hospital, they stay there as they list, conducing with their friends, their wives, and their affairs; being as safe in these places, as though they had not committed any criminal fact; neither may the power of Justice reach to them, so long as they keep themselves within doors.  
This is an ancient liberty which Calabria hath ever retained, and so is through the most part of all the Spanish Dominions: Having arrived at Castelucia, the Baron thereof made much of me, & wondered that I had safely past the mountains; for said he when I go for Naples, I am forced to go by sea, notwithstanding I have forty in train.  
The next day in passing Montecilione, the fairest & fruitfullest bounded Bourg in all Calabria superior; I saw a distecture house, which the people told me had been the School, where Dionysius the third & last Tyrant of Sicilia (after his flight from the Kingdom & Crown) taught Children privately nine years, ere he was known to be a King, but a poor Schoolmaster.  
The higher Calabria though mountainous, aboundeth in delicious Wines, fine pastorage, and exceeding good Silk: The Peasants always commonly here are addicted to eat Onions, whence rose this Proverb, I C●labrese magniano di Cepoli, the Calabrians feed upon Onions. Their women wear uncomely habits, being hooded from their brows to their backs behind, with six or seven sundry colours of cloth or stuff; whose upper gowns come no further down than there middle thighs: And their breeches and stockings being all one, and their legs half booted, they look like the ghostly Armenian Gargosons.  
I remember in passing this higher Country, I found divers Cassales or Terraes, (small Villages) of certain greeks called Albanese, whose predecessors had fled from Albania, 
Greek, Albaneses fled to Calabria.  when the Turk seized upon Epire, and this their Province; and was privileged here to stay by the Spaniard Philip the first: And though exiled from their natural Patrimonies (Omne solum forti patria est) yet are they exceeding kind to stranger, measuring largely their own infranchized fortune, with the voluntary exposement of many unnecessary Viadants: Declining thence to the marine Bourge of Molino, being by land which we footed distant from Naples 400 miles; we crossed the narrow Faro, or Sicilian Euripus, to Messina being two miles broad. Where, when landed and meeting with a young Scots Edenburgensen, William Wylie, come from Palermo, and bound for Venice, I fastened john Browne with him to accompany his return; and on the following day embarked them both back for Calabria.  
And now having followed the Italian saying Simeglior a star solo come mala accompaniato, it is better for a man to be alone, then in ill company; I traversed the Kingdom to Trapundie seeking transportation for Africa, but could get none: And returning thence overthwart the Island, I call to memory being lodged in the Bourge of Saramutza, belonging to a young Baron, and being bound the way of Castello Francko eight miles' distan and appertaining to an other young Noble youth, I rose and marched by the breach of day where it was my luck half way from either Town to find both these beardless Barons, lying dead, and new killed in the fields, and their horses standing tied to a bush beside them; whereat being greatly moved, 
Two young Barons killed at combat.  I approached them, and perceiving the bodies to be richly clad with silken Stuffs easily conjectured what they might be: My host having told me the former night, that these two Barons were at great discord, about the love of a young Noble woman; and so it was, for they had fought the combat for her sake, and for their own pride lay slain here. For as fire is to Gunpowder, so is ambition to the heat of man; which if it be but touched with self-love, mounteth aloft, and never bendeth downward, till it be turned into ashes.  
And here it proved for that Lady's sake that tropp● amore turned to Presto dolore: Upon which sight, to speak the truth, I searched both their pockets, and found their two silken purses full loaded with Spanish Pistols; whereat my heart sprung for joy, and taking five rings off their four hands, I hid them and the two purses in the ground, half a mile beyond this place: And returning again, leapt to one of their horses, and came galloping back to Saramutza; where calling up my host, I told him the accident; who when he saw the horse gave a shout for sorrow, and running to the Castle told the Lady the Baron's Mother: where in a moment, she, her children, and the whole Town run all with me to the place, some clad, some naked, some on foot, and some on horse: where, when come grievous was it to behold their woeful and sad lamentations. I thus seeing them all mad and distracted of their wits with sorrow, left them without good night: And coming to my Treasure, made speedy way to Castello Francko, where bearing them the like news, brought them all to the like distraction and flight of feet.  
Well, in the mutability of time there is aye some fortune falleth by accident, whether lawful or not. I will not question, it was now mine that was last theirs, and to save the thing that was not lost, I travailed that day thirty miles further to Terra nova. Whence the next morning being early embarked for Malta, and there safely Landed; 
A London ship called the Matthe●.  I met with a ship of London called the Matthew, bound for Constantinople lying in the Road; where indeed with the company I made merry a shore for three days, and especially with one George Clerk their Burser, who striving to plant in my brains a Maltezan Vineyard, had almost perished his own life.  
Upon the fourth day, they hoisting sail, and I staying a shore, it was my good luck within eight days to find a French ship of Tolon come from the Levant, and bound for Tunneis by the way in going home. With whom desirously consorted, within three days we touched at our intended Port. And now to reckon the gold that I found in the aforesaid purses, it amounted to three hundred and odd double Pistols; and their Rings being set with Diamonds, were valued to a hundred Chequins of Malta, eight shillings the piece, which I dispatched for lesser: But the gold was my best second, which like Homer's Iliads under Alexander's pillow, was my continual vade mecum.  
Tunneis is the Capital seat of its own Territory, and of all the East and lower Barbary, containing ten thousand firehouses: And it is the place where old Carthage stood, that was builded by the Tyrians and Phoenicians of the Holy Land, some threescore twelve years before Rome, and had twenty miles in circuit: Which City in these times, was the sovereign Queen of Africa, and the only envy, and predominiant malice of the Romans, being more than Rome's rival mate, in greatness, glory, and dominion: Nevertheless in end it was taken, sacked and burnt by Scipio the African Roman, some six hundred and two years after Rome was first founded & her ruins & large Territories without, made subject to the ambition of Rome.  
After which detriment, desolate Carthage was rebuilded by Caesar, 
The divers plantations of Carthage.  and a Colony of Italians transported there, flourished for a time, till it was destroyed and over-runne by the Goths and Vandals: And lastly subdued by the Saracens and Moors, it was by them transmitted to the Turkish power, who now is Master of it, being no way answerable to the six part of the greatness it had before. This Town is situate in the bottom of a Creek where the Sea for a mile having cut the bosom of the Land, maketh a large and safe resting place for ships and galleys: which Haven and t●wne is secured from Sea, invasions, by the great and strong Fortress of Galetto builded on a high Promontory, that embraceth the Sea and commandeth the mouth of the Bay, where in a Turkish Bassaw, and a strong Garrison of Soldiers remain; the Fort itself being well provided with arms, men, artillery and munition.  
The Kingdom of Tunnies comprehendeth once, the whole Country that the ancients called property Af●rick 〈◊〉 little Africa, being the old Numidia; and was divided then in these five Provinces Bugia Constantine, that of Tunneis, Tripoli, and Ezzebba. In the Town of Bugia, lying half way 'twixt Tunneis and Algiers, and 40 leagues from either, being now called Arradetz, there was ancient beautiful Temples, Colleges, magnific buildings, Hospitals, and convents after their fashion: but the Town being taken and razed Anno 1508 by Peter King of Navarre, it hath remained ever since without beauty or ornament, save a few rustic Inhabitants.  
The province of Constantine, lieth 'twixt Tunneis and Bugia; 
The marine Provinces 'twixt Tunneis and Algiers.  the Town Constantine, now Abiro●h, being Capital, and was surnamed Cortes and julia: It is begirded with Rocks, and ancient walls containing eight hundred firehouses, wherein are the relics of an Ark triumphant, formerly built by the Romans; and in this Province sixteen leagues within land, was the Town of Hippo, now Bosen, whereof St. Augustine was Bishop.  
The Territory of Tunneis, lieth between the borders of Abirouh Westward, and the limits of Tripoli Eastward, being of length fo●rescore miles: and on this Sea-coast lieth the Town Biserta, adorned with a commodious Haven, and six Galleys, the most scelerate of condition, and celerous in flying or following of all the cursares in Turkey: Tripoli in Barbary, (commonly called so) was once drowned by the Sea, but now its situation was transported safely a little more Southward; which sometimes was beautified with merchants of Genoa, Ragusa, and Venice, but now become a den of thiefs, and Sea-pirats and so are all the marine Towns 'twixt Egypt and Morocco.  
The last province of the kingdom of Numidia, is Ezzebba, lying East from Tripoli, and confining with Cyreno a pendicle of Egypt: The chiefest part whereof is Messaicke being twenty four Leagues from Tripoli containing many Villages, and Towns on the plains and Mountains, abounding in Silks, corns, and divers Fruits.  
All these five Maritine Provinces, have but narrow Inlands, not advancing southward from the Sea coast above forty miles. Here in Tunneis I met with our English Captain, 
A English Pirate Captain Ward.  general Ward, once a great Pirate, and Commander at Seas; who in despite of his denied acceptance in England had turned Turk, and built there a fair Palace, beautified with rich Marble and Alabaster stones: With whom I found Domestic some fifteen circumcised English Runnagats, whose lives and Countenances were both alike even as desperate as disdainful. Yet old Ward their Master was placable, and joined me safely with a passing Land conduct to Algiere; yea and divers times in my ten days staying there, I dined and supped with him, but lay aboard in the French ship.  
At last having obtained my passport from the Bassaw there, and surety taken for my life and monies, I embraced the Land way with his Conduct, consisting of forty Moors and a hundred Camels loaden with Silks, Dimmeties, and other Commodities, traversing the aforesaid Regions of Abirouh, and Arradetz. In all which way (lying nightly in a Tent) I found a pleasant and fruitful Country, abounding in Wine, Rye, Barley, Wheat, and all kind of fruits, with innumerable villages, and so infinitely peopled, that it made me wish there had been none at all; otherwise that they had been Christians, and so more civil.  
The greatest enemy this journey designed me, was the Sun, whose exceeding heat was intolerable to endure being in September Anno 1615. But for provision of Water, Wine and Victuals we had abundance. Upon the seaventh day of our course, we entered in the Country of Tremizen, formerly Maurit●nea Caesarea: This Kingdom hath to the West Mauritanea Tingitana, 
Tremizen in Barbary.  containing the Empire of Morocco and Fez. On the South Gotulia or desertuous Numidia. On the East with the Rivers of Mulvia and Amphlaga, the Marches of Arradetz. And on the North the Sea Mediterren opposite to Sardinia. The country is in length from the East to the West, some twenty five of their courses, and of our miles above three hundred; and of breadth between the Sea and Gotulia, no more than thirty English miles.  
This copious Kingdom in all things, hath been oft and ever molested with the Numidian Sarazens, or bastard Arabs, who falling down from the Mountains, do run their career at random upon the ground-toyled Moons, to satisfy their needy and greedy desires, Tremizen or Telensim, had of old four Provinces, but now only two; 'tis own Territory, 
The town of Tremizen decayed with Wars.  and that of Algiers: whose capital Town being too cognominated Tremizen, containing once eighteen thousand fire houses. But in regard of josephus' King of Fez, who besieged it seven years, overmastering it; and then subdued by Charles the fifth, and likewise the Turks investion of it, and finally because of the long wars 'twixt the Seriff, or King there, and the Turk; it is become a great deal lesser and almost disinhabited, and the most part of that Country subject to the authority of the Bassaw of Algiers.  
At last upon the twelfth day of our leaving Tunneis, having arrived at Algiers, and abandoning my Conduct with a good respect, I stayed in a Spaniards house, turned Runagate, who kept a roguish Tavern, and a ground planked Hospital. In all this way of twelvescore miles I paid no Tribute, neither had I any eminent peril, the Country being peaceable, though the people uncivil.  
This Town of Algiers, 
The thievish town of Algiers.  was formerly under subjecton to the Kingdom of Tremizen, but because of insupportable charges it revolted, and rendered to the King of Arradetz or Bugia: Afterwards it was under the King of Spain, from whom Barbarossa did take it Anno 1515, being now under the Turk, and is situate upon the pendicles of a flat devalling height, and standeth triangular. The Marine side whereof is strongly fortified, with earth▪ backed walls, Bulwarks, and artilley, but the semisquared land-walles, are of small importance, and easily to be surprised; and three miles in circuit, containing some thirty thousand persons.  
There is a Turkish Bashaw here and a strong Garrison of six thousand janissaries, with two hundred Cursary ships or Pirates, who ever preying upon Christian Commercers, by their continual spoils and prizes, have made the devilish Town wonderful rich; and become an inveterate enemy of Christendom; being now a Kingdom of itself, and in length from East to West between the Towns Terracot and G●argola, some six score miles. It had a long reaching mould in the Sea, that maketh a safe harbour for their ships against Northerly winds, which on that Coast are deadly dangerous. At this time, the greatest part of the Town were fled to the mountains, to shun the parching heat that beateth violently on the Plains, and Sea-shoare; so do all the maritine Towns of Barbary the like every Summer, for the months july, August, and September: which then being left half naked of defence, it were the only time for Christians to invade or surprise their Towns.  
I found here abundance of slaves, most of them Spaniards, whom they daily constrain within Town to bear all manner of burdens here and there, and without Town to drudge in the fields amongst their Vines, and Corns, and other toiling labours, abusing them still with buffets and bastinadoes as their perverstnesse listeth: Neither durst I leave my lodging, unless I had three or four Christian slaves to guide me, and guard me too from scelerate vulgars', who bear no respect to any stranger nor free Franck. 
A natural sublime policy.  Here I remarked a wonderful policy in the Turkish state, concerning these theftuous and rapinous Towns of Barbary; who as they are ordained ever to plague and prey upon the Spaniard, yet under that colour they licenciate them to make havoc & seize upon all other Christian ships, goods, and persons as they please, the French nation excepted: And so they do notwithstanding of our several Ambassadors lying at Constantinople, who rather stay there as Mongrels than absolute Ambassadors: for why should Christian Princes mediate for peace, and commerce with the Turk, when theirs, with his subjects the Barbarian Moors have no safety; they being obedient to his laws, and overruled by Bassawes, as well as these are of Asia and Eastern Europe: from which I gather, as from all other like examples, that there is a more sublime overmastering policy, subtlety, and provident foresight, in mere natural men as Turks be, then in our best Grandeurs, for all their Sciences, & school studies can either perceive or perform far less prosecute. To which avowed dangers if any small ship, ruled by rash fellows should adventure within the straits, as too many English do, being unable and unprovided for defence; and so are taken and captivated, and afterward redeemed by Contributions over the Land: I justly affirm it, they deserve rather to be punished, and remain therein punishment, than any relief or redemption to be wrought for them, who will nakedly hazard themselves in known perils, without Ordnance, munition and a burdenable ship.  
But reverting to my purpose, the marine Provinces which lie between Egypt and Sewty, over against Gibelterre being the Straits, 
The Barbarian Provinces 'twixt Egypt and Gibelterre  are these; Cerene, Barca, Marmorica, Ezzeba, the Trypolian Jurisdiction, the Kingdoms of Tunneis, Abiroh, Arradetz, Tremizen, Algiers, and a part of Fez; extending to two thousand and three hundred maritine miles: All which by ignorant Seamen, and ruvide Moores is termed Barbary, who cannot distinguish parts nor provinces, but even as the Oriental Turks do, that denominate all Asia minor, under the name Carmania, and know no further of their ancient not particular titles.  
Now as concerning their Customs, it is the fashion of all these Barbarian Moors, in marrying of their wives, that after the Bridegroom and the Bride are enrolled by their Totsecks or Priests in the Mosque before the Parents of each party, and the Bride presently brought home to the house of her husband, accompanied with all their Friends, Music, and Revelling: He immediately withdraweth her to a private Chamber, having only one old woman standing by them in a corner of the Room: where he lying with the Bride, and she being found a Maid by a certain cloth laid under her privy place, which being by the old Hag drawn out, and found sprinkled with spots of blood, she presenteth it first to him, as a token of virginity; and then forthwith runneth through the house, among all the friends of the new married couple, crying with a loud voice, and carrying the bloody napkin in her hand, the Virgin-bride is broken up; whereat they all rejoice, giving rewards and good cheer to the Crier: But if the bride be not found a Maid, than he returneth her back unto her parents, which they account as an immor●all shame, 
The trial of Moorish Brides.  and the nuptial feast, and all the assistants thereunto are suddenly dismissed: But if a Virgin, the banquet continueth all the first day, with great cheer, dance, revel, with Musical Instruments of divers sorts.  
The second night is only the feast of women for both parties; and the third banquet is made on the seventh day after the nuptial, the provision of which the father of the Bride sendeth to the house of his new son in law: where after this banquet, and the seventh day, in the next morning the Bridegroom goeth then a broad from his house (which he doth not till the aforesaid time) unto the market place, where he buyeth a number of fish to carry with him to his dwelling, as a sign of good luck, it being an ancient custom through the most part of all the Northern Africa.  
The men and women at such meetings dance a part, each of them having their own Music and orders of merriment.  
They have also a custom when that Infants begin to breed teeth, their Parents will make a solemn feast to all the Children of the town, with divers ceremonies, which custom they reserve yet, in divers parts of Italy.  
The women through all Barbary, wear abundance of Bracelets on their arms, and Rings in their ears, but not through the nose and lips as the Egyptians do; and turn also the nails of their hands and feet to red, accounting it a base thing to see a white nail: The men here for the most part, are the best Archers, and Horsemen that are in Africa, and take great pleasure in breeding of their Barbes: So are they both active, and courageous, and very desperate in all their attempts, being all of the Mahometanicall Religion, though more ignorant thereof than the Turks: some whereof are subject to the Turk, some to the Emperor of Morocco, and some to their own barbarous Princes.  
And now it was my fortune here in Algiers, after 12 day's abode, 
Monsieur Chatteline a French Lapidator.  to meet with a French Lapidator, Monsieur Chatteline borne in Aise du Provance, who intending to visit Fez, joined company with me, and we with certain Merchants of Algiers that were going thither: being in all 30 passengers, with two janissaries and a Dragoman.  
Whence advancing our way, some on Mules, and some on foot, with Asses carrying our baggage and provision; we left the marine Towns of Saly and Tituana, far to the West on our right hand, and facing the inland we marched for three days through a fruitful and populous soil: And although the people barbarous and disdainful countenances were awful, yet we two went still free of tributes, as not being a thing with them accustomary, to execute exaction on Francs as the Turks and Moors do in Asia; neither understood they what we were, being clad with company and after their fashion: save only that nature had set a fairer stamp on my face, than theirs, which oft I wished had been as black as their ugliness. In this misculat journeying of pain and pleasure, we found every where strong Wines, abundance of excellent bread, and the best, and greatest Hens bred on the earth, with plenty of Figs, Fruits, Olives, and delicious Oil, yea, and innumerable Villages, the Houses whereof are all builded with mud, and platformed on their tops; and so are they in Asia, and all Africa over.  
Upon the fourth day having past the Plains, we entered in a Hilly Country, yet pastorable; where I beheld here and there clouds of Tents, filled with maritine people, that were fled hither from the Sea coast for the fresh and cooling air.  
And upon these pleasant and umbragious heights, I saw the fields overclad with flocks of Sheep and Goats: which Sheep are wondrous great, having from their rumps and hips, broad and thick tails growing, and hanging to the ground, some whereof when sold, will weigh 16, 18, or 20 pounds' weight, and upwards. Here among the Mountains, 
My arrival at Fez.  our company knowing well the Country, took a great advantage of the way, and on the seventh day in the morning, we arrived at the great Town of Fez: where the French man and I were conducted by some of our company to a great Mobrish Inn or Tavern: and there received, we were as kindly and respectively used, as ever I was in any part of the Turks Dominions, being now out of them, and in the Empire of Morocco.  
This city of Fez is situate upon the bodies and twice double devalling faces of two Hills, like to Grenada in Andelosia in Spain; the intervale, or low Valley between both (through which the torrid River of Marraheba runneth Southward) being the Centre and chiefest place, is the most beautiful and populous part of the City; the situation of which, and of the whole, is just set under the Tropic of Cancer.  
Over which River, and in this bottom, there are three sco●e and seven Bridges of stone and Timber, each of them being a passage for open streets on both sides. The intervaile consisteth of two miles in length, and half a mile broad; wherein, besides five Chereaffs or Market places, there are great places, magnific Mosques, 
Great Colleges and Hospitals.  Colleges, Hospitals, and a hundred Palatiat Taverns, the worst whereof, may lodge a Monarchicke train: Most part of all which buildings, are three and four stories high, adorned with large and open Windows, long Galleries, spacious Chambers, and flat Tectures or square platforms.  
The streets being covered above, 'twixt these plaineset Fabrics, have large Lights cut through the tectured tops every where; in whose lower shops, or rooms are infinite Merchandise, and Beware of all sorts to be sold.  
The people of both kinds are clothed in long breeches and bare Ankles, with red or yellow shoes shod with iron on the Heels, and on the Toes with white Home; and wear on their bodies long Robes of Linen or Dimmety, and silken Waistcooats of divers Colours: the behaviour of the Vulgars' being far more civil toward Strangers then at Constantinople; or else where in all Turkey.  
The Women here go unmasked abroad, wearing on their heads, broad, and round Capes, made of Straw or small Reeds, to shade their faces from the Sun; and damnable Libidinous, being prepared both ways to satisfy the lust of their Luxurious Villains; neither are they so strictly kept as the Turkish Women, marching where they please.  
There are some twelve thousand allowed Brothelhouses in this Town, the Courtesans, being neatly kept, and weekly well looked to by Physicians; but worst of all, in the Summer time, they openly Lycenciate three thousand common Stews of Sodomitical boys: Nay I have seen at midday, in the very Market places, the Moors buggering these filthy Carrions, and without shame or punishment go freely away.  
There are several Seats of Justice here (though none to vindicate beastliness) occupied by Cedeis and Sanzackes, which twice a Week hear all differences and complaints: their chief Seriff, or Vicegerent, being sent from Morocco, is returned hither again every third year.  
The two Hills on both sides the planured City, East, and west, are over-clad with streets and Houses of two stories high, 
The beauty and greatness of Fez.  being beautified also with delicate Gardens, and on their extreme devalling parts, with numbers of Mosques and watchtowers: On which heights, and round about the Town, there stand some three hundred Windmills; most part whereof pertain to the Mosques, and the two magnific Colleges erected for education of Children, in the Mahometanicall Law.  
One of which Academies, cost the King Habahennor in building of it, four hundred and three score thousand ducats. jacob son to Abdulach the first King of the Families of Meennons, divided Fez in three parts, ●nd with three several Walls, though now environed with only one, and that broken down in sundry parts.  
The Citizens here are very modest and zealous at their divine service, but great dancers and revellers on their solemn festival days, wherein they have Bull-baiting, Maskerats, singing of rhymes, and processions of Priests. The Moors in times passed of Fez and Morocco had divers excellent personages well learned, and very civil; for amongst the Kings Mahometan one can not praise too much the Kings Almansor, Maunon, and Hucceph, being most excellent men in their superstition.  
In whose times; flourished the most famous medicines, and Philosophers that were among the Pagans, as Avi●enne, Rasis, Albumazar, Averro, etc. With other great numbers maintained by the King of Morocco, that then were Masters of all Barbary and Spain: As in Spain may be seen yet (though now fallen in decay) a great number of their Colleges, showing they were great lovers of their Religion and Doctrine, and are so to this day, save only in their drinking of Wine forbidden by their Alcoran. They were great devisers too of gallant sport, exercise, sturnaments, and Bull-baiting, which Spain retaineth to this time; yea, and the Romans did learn, and follow many of them.  
Here in Fez there be a great number of Poets, that make Songs on divers subjects, especially on Love, and Lovers, who they openly name in their rhymes, without rebuke or shame: All which Poets once every year, against Mahomet's birthday, 
Poets among Barbarians in great request.  make rhymes to his praise mean while in the after noon of that festival day, the whole Poets assembling in the market place, there is a Desked chair prepared for them, whereon they mount one after an other to receive their verses in audience of all the people; and who by them is judged to be best, is esteemed all that year above the rest; having this Epithet the Prince of Poets, and is by the Vicegerent and Town rewarded; But in the time of the Maennon Kings, the Prince on that day in his own Palace did conveine the whole Citizens, in whose presence he made a solemn feast to all the best Poets, causing every one of them to recite the praise of Mahomet before his face standing on a high seaffold: And to him that was thought to excel the rest, the King gave him 100 Sultan's of gold, a horse, a woman slave, & the long Robe that was about him for the time: And to each one of the rest he caused give fifty Sultan's, so that every one should have some recompense for their pains: Indeed a worthy observation; and would to God it were now the custom of our Europian Princes to do the like▪ and especially of this Isle; then would bravest wits, and quickest brains, study and strive to show the exquisite ingeniosity of their best styles and pregnant invention, which now is eclipsed, and smothered down, because now adays, their is neither regard nor reward for such excellent Penmen. Fez was anciently named Sylda, whose Kingdom hath Atlas to the South, the River of Burdraga to the East, and Tremizen: Morocco to the West: And the confines of Guargula and a part of the Sea to the North. Having spent in Fez 17 days, in all which time we daily conversed with some Christian Abasines, Heragenes, 
Heragens or Ethiopian Negroes.  or Aethiopian Nigroes, some whereof were Merchants, and some religious; and Monsieur Chattelines business not effected, seeking Diamonds and precious stones to buy, was seriously advised by them to go for Arracon, a great Town on the Frontiers of the Northern Aethiopia: where he would find abundance of such at an easy rate, giving him a perfect direction for his passage hither being 30 day's journey: he concluded with their counsel his resolution, and persuading me to the same intention, I yield, being over-mastred with the greedy desire of more sights.  
Mean while for our conduct, we hire a Dragoman Moor that spoke Italians to be our Interpreter, and with him a Tent and two Moorish drudges to guide, guard and serve us by the way for fifty eight Sultan's of gold eighteen pounds four shillings English: having six of their Kinsmen fast bound to a Sansak or Justice, for our lives, liberties, and monies.  
Hereupon having provided for ourselves with all necessary things, and a Mule to carry our Victuals, Water and Baggage, we discharged our conscionable Hostage, at twenty Asper's a day the man, being thirty four shillings to each of us and were brought on our way by the aforesaid Christian Heragenes some four Leagues. Where having left them with dutiful thanks, we set forward in our journey, and for seven days together we were not violently molested by any thing, save intolerable heat, finding tented people and scattered Villages all the way.  
The eight day, the way being fastidious and Rockey, and Chatteline on foot being weary, 
Chatteline the French Lapidator fallen sick.  and could not subsist, not being used to pedestriall travail; and for our better speed and his relief, we mounted him aloft on the top of our baggage. At last arriving at Ahetzo (where we reposed) being the furthest and South-most Town of the Kingdom of Fez, composed of a thousand firehouses, well fortified with Walls, and a Garrison of Moors in it, subject to the Emperor of Morocco: the Frenchman long ere day, fell sick of a burning Fever: Whereupon we stayed five days expecting his health; which growing worse and worse, and he mindful to return, which I would not: I left him in safe custody, and one of our Drudges to attend him. And bearing the charges of the other two, according to the former condition: I set forward for my purpose, which ere long turned to sad Repentance.  
Leaving Ahetzo behind us, and entering the Country of the Agaroes', we found the best inhabitants half clad, the vulgars' naked, the Country void of Villages, Rivers, or cultivage: but the soil rich in Bestial, abounding in Sheep, Goats, Camels, Dromidores, and passing good horses: Having an Emeere of their own, being subject to none, but to his own passions, and them to the disposition of his scelerate nature: yet he, and they had a bastard show of Mahometanicall Religion: Their Bestial are watered with sources, and the pastorable fields, with the nightly Serene, and themselves with the waterish concavity of the earth. In our six day's toil, traversing this Country, we had many troubles and snarlings from these Savages; who sometimes over-laboured us with Bastinadoes, and were still inquirous, what I was, and whither I went; yea and enough for the Dragoman to save my life and liberty.  
Having past the perverstnesse of this calamity, upon the seaventh day, we rancountred with another soil, and worse tribe of the Hagans or jamnites, 
The tribe of the Hagans or jamnites.  most part whereof were white Moors; a people more ugly than the Nigroes, yet some of the better sort had their members covered, but of condition far more wicked than the former.  
The Soil we daily traced, was covered with hard and soft Sands; and them full of Serpents, being interlarded with Rockey heights, faced with Caves & Dens; the very habitacle of Wild beasts, whose hollow cries, as we heard in the night, so we too often sighted their bodies in the day, especially Jackals, Bears, and Boars, and sometimes Cymbers, Tigers, and Leopards, against whom in the day time if they approached us, 
The wild beasts of the Lybian Deserts  we either shot of a Harquebus, or else flashed some powder in the Air▪ the smell whereof, no ravenous beast can abide.  
This vast Wilderness is a part of the Berdoans Country, one of the four tribes of the old Lybrians, the Sabuncks, the Carmines', and the Southern Garolines, being the other three. And now to help the expression of my grievous distress and miseries, my Muse must lament the jest.  
Ah! sightless deserts! filled with barren Sands!  
And parched plains; were huge and hilly la●ds  
Have stone-faced scurrile bounds: O monstrous fear!  
What destiny, drove my crossed Fortune here?  
By day I'm scoarched with heat, by night the grounds  
Are clad with beasts; whose rage sends horrid sounds  
Of dreadful death; whence we to shun their ire,  
Are forced to fright them, with bright Tara fire:  
For if it were not, that they scared at Light,  
No man could walk, or rest safe in the night.  
Then next and nigh, the crawling Serpent lurk  
Still under foot, some stung-swolne smart to work;  
Which move the Sands like Seas, in seeking shade,  
Where amongst their linking rolls, I'm forced to wade:  
Whose necks like legs are round their bodies strong,  
With black-spred backs, their length full two yards long:  
Yet whilst I cut, and crush their warbling womb,  
I point their death, their skin I make their tomb.  
But worst I'm hungerbit, and starving slain  
With pinching want, a sore-sunke gnawing pain:  
O helpless ●orture! seconded with great drought  
And fiery thirst, that scab my lips and mouth:  
Wherefor fine liquor, as my my heart would wish,  
Stressed wand'ring I, am forced to drink my piss:  
So turns my food to smoke, the smoke to ashes  
Which twice a night, we three do spend in flashes:  
Last casts my face the skin, my skin the colour,  
And spewing forth fled joys, I drink in dolour.  
Thus with the Torrid Zone, am I oppressed,  
And locked 'twixt Tropics two, which me invest,  
Wherefor relief I pierced the Heavens with cries,  
And cut the Clouds to grieve the azure skies  
With sighs and groans; ●et careful to regard  
My curious drifts, had got their just reward.  
But to shorten my Discourse, of barren Wildernesses, supposed to be apart of the Lybian Deserts, my Dragoman upon the fourth day of our seven being there, falling in despair, and wondering to see me endure such heat, such hunger, and such toil, did threaten me with death, to make me seek back for our nearest refuge: Whereupon holding our course North-east, my compasse-Dyall being our guide, we rancountred early on the eight day, with nine hundred Savages, naked Lybian Sabunks: five hundred whereof, were women armed with Bows and Arrows; who with their complices, the former night had put to the sword three hundred Berdoanes, their neighbour tribe: carrying away above six hundred Sheep and Goats besides other bestial: from whom after our sight of their Emeere or Prince, we had first liberty of life, and then relief of food; for he came up in the Rear, with a hundred Horsemen charged with half Pikes, headed at both ends with sharp Steel: The person of their Prince was only clothed from his breasts down to his middle thigh with a Crimson veil of Silk hanging on his naked shoulders with coloured Ribans, 
The Prince 〈◊〉 the Sabun●ks apparel.  and on his head, a party coloured Shash▪ set like a Garland: Both his knees were bare, so were his ankles, the calves of his legs being girded with Crimson Silk; and on his feet yellow shoes, his beard was like his face, burnt with the Sun, and his age like to my own, of 33 years, his Religion is damnable, so is his life, for he and all the four Tribes of Lybia worship only for their god, Garlick, having altars, Priests and superstitious rites annexed to it: Thinking Garlic, being strong of itself, and the most part of their food, to have a sovereign virtue in a herbal Deity. All his Courters were stark naked, saving his Page, who was even covered like to the King his Master.  
And now having dismissed his Army for the way, and falling in an hour's parley with us at his departure; he pr●pyned me with his Bow, & a Quiver of Arrows, which afterward, I presented to his Majesty, than Prince.  
There is a merry secret hear concerning the women, which often I recited to King james of Blessed memory, showing him also three Certificats of this my Desartuous wand'ring: one of which was confirmed by English Ward at Tunneis upon the Dragomans' Report; though now they with all my other Patents are lost, in the Inquisition of Malaga. This former savage Prince, sent a Guide with us for four day's journey, the condition of his man's Wages being made by himself, and frankly advised us that Tunneis was our best and nearest recourse. Which being forcibly considered, I was constrained to renew my bargain again with the Dragoman, at the rate of forty five Sultan's of gold to bring me safely hither.  
This Sabunck Guide, to whom I gave five Sultan's, thirty five shillings, brought us through the most Habitable valleys, and best clad passages of the Country with Tents: where every day once we found Water, Bread, Garlick and Onions, and sometimes Hens at twenty Asper's the piece, two shillings▪ which we would Rost, or scorch dry (if truth may have credit) at the very face of the Sun, and so eat them. Upon the fifth day, our Guide leaving us in the afternoon, well settled among four hundred Tents of Numidian Moors, or bastard Arabians, pitched in a pleasant Valley between two sources of Water, we stayed still there Reposing ourselves, and refreshing our bodies with Victuals, some nine days,  
here among these Tents, 
Moorish Smiths forging horsshoos out of cold Iron without fire, but the ●eat of the Sun  I saw Smiths Work out of cold Iron, Horseshoes, and Nails, which is only mollified by the vigorous heat and Rays of the Sun, and the hard hammering of hands upon the Anvil: So have I seen it also in Asia. I could be more particular here, but Time, Paper, Printing, and charges will not suffer me. And now from hence, renewing our Guides from place to place, and descending from Savage Moors to Civil Moors, we arrived (though with great difficulty and danger) safely at Tunneis.  
And to conclude this Eight Part, there are three Beglerbegships in the higher and lower Barbary: 
The Begler●begship of Ba●●bary.  The first is at Trypolis, which was taken in by Sinan Bassa from the Knights of M●lta 1551, and commandeth under him eight thousand Tymariots, besides six thousand janissaries. The second is at Tunneis, the Beglerbeg whereof, being of great Authority, commandeth under him twelve Sanzacks', and thirty five thousand Timariot. The the third is, that of Algiers, whose Bassa hath under him fourteen Sanzacks', and the commandment of forty thousand Tymariots. These are all the Beglerbegs the Great Turk retaineth in Africa, except the great Vizier-Bassa of Egypt: Asia-major and minor, he commandeth in several Provinces and Kingdoms, thirty Bassas, or Beglerbegs.   

The Ninth Part.  
TUnneis been sightless left, I sought the Isle▪  
Of little Malta: famous for the stile  
Of honoured Knighthood, drawn from great Saint John,  
Whose Order and the Manner, I'll expone:  
Whence Coasting Sicily, a tripled view  
I took of Aetna: Time discussing you  
A miracle of Metal; for its Kind  
Is nursed by Rain, and suffled up with wind:  
And thwarting Italy, the Venice Gulf,  
Carindia, Carneola, the stiffe-streamd Dolf;  
Headstrong Danubio, Vienne, Austriaes' Queen,  
And Kind Moravia▪ set before mine eyen.  
To Hungary I came, and Vallechie,  
The Transylvanian Soil, and Moldavie.  
Whence sighting Polle, and many Scotsmans' face,  
I Kissed Sigismonds' hand, at Warsow place:  
Whence Swethland I, and Denmark last bewray,  
Norvegia too, in my sought London way;  
Where been arrived, safe on the brow of Thames,  
To Court I came, and homaged Royal James.  
ANd now my Wish, and my arrival, being both desirous, for a while settled in Tunneis, I dispatched my Dragoman, and the other Barbarian hireling, with a greater consideration, than my two former conditions allowed me: Yet being urged to it by Captain Ward, I freely performed his Direction. My Conduct gone, and I staying here, Captain Ward sent twice one of his servants with me, to see two sundry Ovens drawn, being full of young Chickens, which are not hatched by their mothers, 
●he hatching of Chickens without their mothers.  but in the Furnace, being thus. The Oven is first spread over with warm Camels dung, and upon it the Eggs closing the Oven.  
Then behind the Oven, there is a daily conveyance of heat, venting through a passage beneath the dung just answerable to the natural warmness of the Hen's belly; upon which moderation, within twenty days they come to natural perfection. The Oven producing at one time, three or four hundred living Chickens, and where defection is, every sharer beareth a part of the loss; for the Hatcher or Curator, is only Recompensed according to the living numbers be delivered. Surely this is an usual thing, almost through all Africa, which maketh that the Hens with them are so innumerable every where.  
And now it was my good fortune, after five Weeks attendance for Transportation, being about the 14 of February 1616, to meet here with a Holland ship called the Mermaid of Amsterdam, being come from Tituana, and bound for Venice and Malta, touched here by the way. In this time of their staying, 
Captain Dansers' employment.  came one Captain Danser a Fleming, who had been a great Pirate and Commander at Seas, and the only inveterate enemy of the Moors; being employed by the French King in Ambassage, to relieve two and twenty French Barks that were there Captivated, done by the policy of the Bashaw, to draw Danser hither; notwithstanding that he was then Retired and married in Marseilles.  
Well, he is come, and Anchored in the Road, accompanied with two French Gentlemen: Two of which came a shore, and saluted the Bashaw in Dansers' behalf: they are made welcome, and the next day the Bashaw went frankly aboard of Danser, seconded with twelve followers: Danser took the presence of the Bashaw for a great favour, and mainly feasted him with good cheer, great quaffing, sounding Trumpets, and Roaring shots, and none more familiar than the dissembling Bashaw, and overjoyed Danser, that had relieved the Barks, for they were all sent to him that morning, not wanting any thing.  
After deep cups, the Bassaw invites him to come a shore the day following, and to dine with him in the Fortress: To the which unhappy Danser granted, and the time come, he landed with twelve Gentlemen, and approaching the Castle, was met with two Turks to receive him: where having past the drawbridge, & the gate shut behind him, 
The untimely death of Captain Danser a Fleming born.  his company was denied entrance: where forthwith Danser being brought before the Bassaw, was strictly accused of many ships, spoils, and great riches he had taken from the Moors, and the merciless murder of their lives, for he never spared any: Whereupon he was strait beheaded, and his body thrown over the walls in a ditch; which done, off went the whole Ordnance of the Fort, to have sunk Dansers two ships; but they cutting their Cables, with much ado escaped; but for the other Gentlemen a shore, the Bassaw sent them very courteously and safely aboard of the redeemed Barks, whence they hoist Sails for Marseilles.  
Lo there was a Turkish policy more sublime & crafty, than the best Europian a live could have performed. A little while thereafter, the aforesaid Hollander being ready to go for Sea, I bade good night to generous Ward, & his forward Runnagats, where being embarked with prosperous winds; upon the third day we landed at Malta, and there leaving my kind Flemings and their negotiation, I courted the shore, saluting again my former host.  
The fifth day of my staying here, I saw a Spanish Soldier & a Maltezen boy burnt to ashes, for the public profession of Sodomy, and long ere night, there were above a hundred Bardassoes, whorish boys that fled away to Sicily in a Galleyot; but not one Bugeron stirred, being few or none there free of it: The Knights that remain here, as they are of divers Nations, so have they divers manners and inclinations; how soever they of the better sort, are resolute in their achievements.  
The Maltezes anciently did adore the Goddess juno, whose Temple was superbiously adorned with rich decorements, and to which, for homage and devotion, came all the Inhabitants of the circumjacent Isles, bringing rich presents and gifts; and they were also honoured with the Temple of Hercules, the ruins of which appear to this day.  
Now as for the order of Knighthood, the oath which is made at their receiving the order of St. john, or of the Religion of the holy Hospital of jerusalem, 
The formal oath of the Knights of Malta.  is this: I vow and promise to God, to the most blessed Virgin Mary, the Mother of God, and to our glorious Patron St. john the Babtist, that by the grace and help of Heaven, I shall ever be obedient to the superior, that God and this Religion have appointed; and from henceforth that I shall live chaste, forsaking marriage and all other lusts, and to be without the proper possession of any thing that may be mine.  
After this, the Chapel clerk, a Priest of the order, receiving him with divers ceremonies, taketh a black Cloak in his hand, and showing him the white cross that is fixed thereon, demandeth if he doth not believe that to be the sign of the Cross whereon jesus Christ was crucified for our sins: he confesseth it, kissing the Cross: After which, his receiver putteth the cross of the Cloak upon the heart and left side of the new made Knight, saying, Receive this sign in the name of the trinity, the blessed Mother of God, the Virgin Mary, and of St. john the Baptist, for the augmentation of the Catholic faith, the defence of the Christian name, and service of the poor: Also we put this cross on thy left side, to the end that thou mayst love it with all thy heart, and with thy right hand for to defend it: And in fight against the enemies of jesus Christ, thou shalt happen to flee, and leave his holy Sign behind thee, thou shalt of good right be depraved of this holy religious order, and of our company: This done, he knitteth the Gordon of the cloak about him saying; Receive the yoke of our Lord that is sweet, and light and thou shalt find rest for thy soul: Thus spoke, he kisseth the Gordon, and so do all the circumstanding Knights, and there are made unto him divers Orations and precepts, contained in the Book of their Ordinances: They have a Priesthood too of this same order, being Masspriests that wear this badge of the white Crosse.  
Now bidding farewell to Malta, and to mine aforesaid Country Gentleman William Dowglas, I landed the next morning at Sicily in Sicilia, being twenty leagues distant. And now this being the third time of my traversing this Kingdom, (triple experience, deeper knowledge) I begin to give you a perfect description thereof.  
Sicilia was first named Trinacria (whose figure is Triquetria) for that being triangular, 
The first denominations of Sicilia.  it butteth into the sea with three Promontories Capo di coro, South Cap di passaro West: and Cap di faro East: The length of each triangle from point to point, being 200 miles.  
Terra tribus scopulis, vastum procurrit in aequor,  
Trinacris a positu, nomen adepta loci.  
a I'll with corners three, outbraves the Main  
From whence the name Trinacry it doth gain.  
It is now called Sicilia from the Siculi or Sicani who possessed it, and hath been famous in all former ages: By Diodorus Siculus, it was cognominated the Paragon of Isles: By Titus Livius, the Garden of Italy: It was also anciently called the Grange of the Romans, and is never a whit decayed to this day.  
The length of the Island lieth East and West, in circuit six hundred, large fifty, and in length two hundred forty Italian miles: 
The fertility of Sicilia.  The soil is incredible fruitful, excelling in all sorts of grain, as corns, Wheat, Wine, Sugar, Rice, Oil, Salt, Allom, all kinds of fruit, wholesome Herbs, exceeding good Silk, exquisite mines of metal, and the best Coral, in the world is found here, beside Trapundy; growing under the water green and tender, but when arising above, it becometh red and hard: The like whereof is said to be found in the Red Sea, and gulf of Persia.  
The most of the Towns and Villages within land, are builded on the highest hills and greatest heights in the Country; the reason is twofold; first it serveth them for strength: and a great defence in time of cursary invasions, of which divers be so straight in ascending that one man may easily resist and beat down five hundred. The second is, 
Towns set on heights reserve good air.  because their dwellings being far above the parching plains, these situations are good preservatives for their health, where on they have a sweet and cooling air, which in such a hot climate, is the sovereign salve to prevent sickness.  
Their Villages be far distant, some six, ten, fifteen twenty miles, one from another; in all which grounds there is no sequestrate house, unless (being a high way) it be a Fundaco or Inn. About the sides of the hills, whereon their Towns stand, grow all their Winds, and on the Plains nothing but red wheat, which for goodness is unparralleled, and the best bread and a abundance of it in the world is here. Sicilia was formerly divided in three Regions, to wit, the valley of Demonia, containing Aetna, Catagna, Messina, and that angle of Cap di faro, 
The ancient divisions of Sicilia.  of old Pelora: The other the valley of Neitia, containing Syracuse, Terra nova, and the angle of Cape di Core of old, Lilibea; and the third was the valley of Matzzara containing Palermo, Trapundy, Malzara, and the angle of Cap di passero of old Pachinum: Many think that Sicilia was rend from Italy by the violence of waters, at the general Deluge, some by infinite Earthquakes, and some simply conjecture the cause to have proceeded from combustious Aetna, which is mere ridiculous.  
There are divers grounds and valleys in this Isle, that abound so in Wheat, that the Inhabitants recoil a hundred measures for one, and commonly are called the fields of a hundred measures.  
The Sycilians for the most part are bred Orators, which made the Apulians term them, men of three tongues: besides they are full of witty sentences, & pleasant in their rencounters, 
Sicilians are brave Orators  yet among themselves, they are full of envy (meaning their former kindnesses was unto strangers) suspicious and dangerous in conversation, being lightly given to anger and offences, and ready to take revenge of any injury committed: But indeed I must confess, more generously than the Italians, who murder their enemies in the night; for they appeal other to single combat, and that manfully without fraudulent practices.  
They are curious, and great lovers of novelties, and full of quickness and rare inventions in all kind of Sciences, great intelligencers and lovers of histories: As I found in divers of them, who knew the passages formerly of my Country so tightly that I was astonished at their relations so agreeable with the truth and times past. The Parliament of Sicily hath a wonderful great authority, in so much that the Viceroy cannot have the free gift (as they call it) which is every third year, nor no extraordinary thing, nor the renewing of any matter concerning the commonwealth, without the general consent of the whole Kingdom: The general Counsel whereof is composed of three branches called by them the arms of the Kingdom: 
The great Counsel of Sicilia.  viz. first the Prelates, and inferior Clergy men named the arm Ecclesiastic: secondly of Barons called the arm Military: and the third the Commissioners of Cities and Towns intitulated the arm Signioriall: The Crowne-rent of this Kingdom amounteth, to a million and a half of Ducats yearly, which being disbursed ever for entertaining of Captains, Garrisons and of Galleys and cursary ships, the Badgeloes' and servants for the fields, the maintaining of Towers and watches about the coasts, the reparations of Colleges, highways, Lords pensions, and other defraying, there rests little, or nothing at all to the King.  
I remember in my twice being in this Kingdom, (especially the second time, wherein I compassed the whole Island, and thrice traversed the middle parts thereof from Sea to Sea) I never saw any of that self Nation, to beg bread or seek alms; so great is the beatitude of their plenty. And I dare avow it (experience taught me) that the poorest creature in Sicily eateth as good bread, as the best Prince in Christendom doth. The people are very humane, ingenious, eloquent and pleasant, their language in many words is nearer the Latin, than the Italian, which they promiscuously pronounce, somewhat talkative they are, and effeminate, but generally wonderful kind to strangers. In the months of july and August, all the Marine Towns every year, are strictly and strongly guarded with them of the inland Villages and Bourges, both on foot and horseback: who are compelled to lie there at their own charges, so long as this season lasteth; in which they fear the incursions of the Turks; but the rest of the year, these Sea-coast Towns are left to the vigilant custody of the Indwellers  
This Country was ever sore oppressed with Rebels and Bandits, 
The Duke of Sona Viceroy of Sicilia.  until such time that the military Duke of Sona, came to rule there as Viceroy, Anno 1611. where in the first year he brought in five hundred; some whereof were hanged, some pardoned, and some committed to the Galleys: So that within two years of his four years' government, there was not a Bandit left at random in all Sicilia; the like before was never seen in this Region, nor one in whom Astrea's worth was more honoured, infortitude of mind, and execution of true Justice that this Duke before whose face the silly ones did shine, and the proud stiffnecked oppressors did tremble.  
And in a word, he has no suppressor of the subjects (as many now be) to satisfy either licentious humours, or to enrich lightheaded flatterers, but serving Justice, he made Justice serve him: for the equity of Justice of itself, can affond none, neither of any will it be offended; unless the corrupt tongue and hand of the mercenary Judge suffer sound judgement to perish for temporary respects; which this noble Governor could never do, neither suffer any inferior Magistrate to do the like under him: As it well appeared by his 〈◊〉 proceedings against thy jesuits of Pale●●o and his authority upon them imposed in spite of their ambition. The circumstances whereof, were very plausible, if time did not slaughter my good will; and yet my patience could perform my pains with pleasure.  
And likewise against a Seminary Gallant, a Parochial Priest of that same City, 
An equitable Justice for injusticesake.  who had killed a Knight's servant in a Brothel house, the brother of a Shoemaker, which fellow, the Viceroy caused, to Pistol the Priest in spite of the Cardinal, and there upon absolved him for the dead.  
This Cardinal having only for the Priest's fact, discharged him to say Mass for a year, without satisfaction for the man's life: so the Duke inhibited the Shoemaker to make shoes for a year, and nevertheless allowed him two shillings a day to maintain him for that time.  
Many singular observations have I of his government, the which to recite, would prove prolixious, though worthy of note to the intellective man, he was afterward Viceroy of Naples, and now lately deceased in Spain. It is dangerous to travel by the Marine of the Seacoasts Creeks in the West parts, especially in the mornings, lest he find a Moorish Frigo● lodged all night, under colour of a Fisher boat, to give him a slavish breakfast: for so they steal labouring people of the fields, carrying them away captives to Barbary; notwithstanding of the strong Watch towers which are in every one sight of another, round about the whole Island.  
There arrivalls are usually in the night, and if in day time, they are soon discovered; the Towers giving notice to the Villages, the Sea-coast is quickly clad with numbers of men on foot and horseback: And oftentimes they advantageously seize on the Moors, lying in obscure cliffs and bays. All the Christian Isles in the Mediterranean Sea, and the Coast of Italy and Spain, inclining to Barbary, are thus chargeably guarded with watch Towers.  
The chiefest remarkable thing in this Isle from all Antiquity is the burning hill of Aetna, called now Ma●●e Bello, or Gibello, signifying a fair Mountain, so it is, being of height toward Catagna from the Sea side, fifteen Sicilian miles, and in Circuit sixty. The North side toward Rindatza at the Root being unpassable steep; yet gathering on all parts so narrow to the top, as if it had been industriously squared, having a large prospect in the Sea; about the lower parts whereof grow exceeding good Wines, Corns, and Olives.  
And now in my second Travails, 
My second view of Aetna.  and returning from Africa, I not being satisfied with the former sight, the kind Bishop of Rindatza courteously sent a Guide with me on his own charges, to view the Mountain more strictly. Ascending on the east and passable part, with tedious toil, and curious climbing, we approached near to the second fire being twelve miles high; which is the greatest of the three now burning in Aetna: whose vast mouth, or gulf is twice twelvescore long and wide, lying in a straight valley between a perpendiculur height and the main Mountain; whose terrible flames, and cracking smoke is monstous fearful to behold.  
Having viewed and reviewed this, as near as my Guide durst adventure (the ground mean while whereon we stood warming our feet, and is dangerous for holes, without a perfect Guide) we ascended three miles higher to the main top of Cima, from which the other two fires had their beginning. Where when come, we found it no way answerable to the greatness of the middle fire; the other two drawing from it the substance, wherewith it hath been anciently furnished; yet between them two upper fires, I found abundance of Snow (being in july) lying on the septentrion sides of the Hill. It was here in this upmost Furnace, that Empedocles the Philosopher cast himself in, to be reputed for a God.  
— De●s immortalis haberi  
Dum cupit Empedocles, arde●tem fervidus Aetnam  
Insiluit—  
To be a god this curious Wretch desires  
And casts himself, in the fierce Aetnean sires.  
As we descended on the North-east side, we came to the third and lowest fire, which is within a short mile of the Mountain's foot, over against Rindatza; and if it were not for a sulphurat River, which divideth the Town and the Hill, it would be in danger to be burned. This last and least fire run down in a cumbustible flood, 
The lowest and third 〈◊〉 of Ae●●●.  from the middle above, Anno 1614 june 25. Where the Sulphur streams, before it congealed, falling in a bituminous soil, where Wine and Olives grew there seized, and daily augmenteth more and more; having quite spoiled the Lands of two Barons in Rindatza: But the king of Spain, in recompense of their miserable mishaps, did gratify them with some of his Crown lands for their maintenance.  
I speak it credibly, I have found the Relics of these Sulphur streams, which have burst fo●th from the upmost tops of Aetna Westward, above twenty miles in the plain. The reason of such ardent disgorgements, is thus; that when the abundance of Sulphur, being put on edge with excessive Rain, and the bitumenous substance still increasing; which by the chaps, flits, and hollow chinks of the ground (rend partly by the Sun, and by t●e forcing flames) is blown by the Wind, as by a pair of bellows; the vault or vast bosom, of which ugly Cell; not being able to contain such a compositure of combustible matter, it impetuously vomiteth out, 
The combustious deval●ing of Aet●aes fire.  in an outrageous Torrent; which precipitately devalleth so long as the heat remaineth: and growing cold, it congealeth in huge and black stones, resembling Mineral mettle, and full of small holes, like to the composed Cinders of a Smith's Forge, where with the Houses of nine Towns Circumjacent thereunto, are builded.  
This is that place, which the Poets did report to be the shop of Vulcan, where Cyclops did frame the thunderbolts for jupiter: Whereof Virgil doth make his Tract, called Aetna. Under this hill the Poets feign the Giant Enceladus to be buried, whose hot breath fireth the Mountain, lying on his face; and to conclude of Aetna, the gross Papists hold it to be their Purgatory.  
The chief Cities therein are Palermo, 
Palermo.  the seat of the Viceroy, situate in the Northwest part over against Sardinia: It is a spacious City, and well watered with delicate Fountains, having goodly buildings, and large streets, whereof Stradoreale is principal, being a mile long. In which I ha●e seen in an evening march a long for Recreation above 60 Coaches, a pair of Mule●s, being tied to every Coach: the Galleys of Sicilia which are ten lie here.  
The second is Messina, toward the East, over against Regio, in Calabria; being impregnable and graced with a famous haven: having three invincible Castles, the chief whereof, is Saint Salvator by the Sea side; there be divers other Bulwarks of the Town walls, that serve for offensive and defensive forts, which is the cause (in derision of the Turks) they never shut their Gates.  
The third is Syrac●sa, standing on the Southeast Coast fifty miles beyond Aetna, and half way 'twixt Messina and Malta, 
The famous City of Syracuse.  a renowned City, and sometimes the Metropolitan Seat: It is famous for the Arthusean springs, and Archimedes that most ingenious Mathematitian: He was the first Author of the Spheere, of which instruments he made one of that bigness, and Ar●e, that one standing within, might easily perceive, the several motions, of every Celestial Orb: And when the Romans besieged Syracuse he made such burning glasses, that set on fire all their Ships lying in the Road: At last he was slain by a common Soldier in his study, at the sack of the Town, to the great grief of Marcellus the Romau General, when he was making plots, and drawing figures on the ground how to prevet the assaults of the Romans.  
The fourth is Trapundy in the West, over against Biserta in Barbary, 
Trapundy.  which yieldeth surpassing fine Salt, that is transported to Italy, Venice, Dalmatia, and Greece; made only in some certain Artificial Salt pools, by the vigorous beating of the scorching Sun, which monthly they empty and fill. The marine here excelleth in Ruby Coral, which setteth the half of the Town at work, and when refined, is dispersed over all Christendom.  
This City is in great request amongst the Papists, because of the miraculous Lady here, reputed the Islands Protector and sole Governor of these narrow seas, for Ships, Galleys, and Slaves: which indeed if an image cut out in wht Marble were so powerful, it might be credible; but besides this Idolatrous title, they superstitiously there unto annex a rabble of absurd lies.  
The first is Catagna, placed at the Marine foot of Aetna, that was so vexed by Dionysius the Tyrant. The sixth is Matzara South-west, over against the Barbarian Promontory of Lystra, the rest be Rindatza, T●rranova, E●●●a, where Pluto is said to have stolen Proserpina, Malz●ra, Francavilla, Bronzo, Terramigna, and Argenti once Agrigentum, where the Tyrant Phalaris lived, who tortured Perillus in the Brazen Bull, which he made for the destruction of others.  
The tyrannies which were used in Sicilia wherein times passed so famous, 
The Sicilian tyrants.  that they grew unto this poverbe, Invidia Siculi non invenire tyranni, tormentum majus. The elder and younger Dionysius, were such odious tyrants, and the third Dionysius worst of all, that when the people poured out continual execrations on the last, wishing his death; only one old woman prayed for his life: This reason she gave, since from the grandfather, his father and he, each succeeding worse and worse, and least (said she) he dying, the devil should come in his place, (for a worse never lived) I wish him to continue still.  
This Kingdom after it was rend from the Romans, remaining in subjection under the French till the year 1281 in which Peter of Arragon, contrived his purpose so close that at the sound of a Bell, to the evening vespers, all the French men in Sicilia, were cruelly massacred; since which time it hath ever belonged to the house of Arragon, and now of Spain; which exploit masketh under the name of Vesperi Siculi, For nobility this Island may compare with Naples, their styles (like unto Italy) are great, but their revenues wondrous small.  
The Sicilians have a Proverb, as having experience of both, that the French are wiser than they seem, and the Spaniards seem wiser than they are: 
A true comparison between the French ● the Spaniard  And even as the Spaniard is extreme proud in the lowest ebb of Forune: So is the French man exceeding impatient, cowardly desperate, and quite discouraged in the pinch of stern calamity. The Spaniard and the French man have an absolute opposition, and conditional disagreement in all fashions; and in their riding both different and defective: For the Spaniard rideth like a Monkey mounted on a Camel, with his knees and heels alike aside, sitting on the saddle, like to a half ballast ship, tottering on top-tempestous waves: And the French man, hangeth in the stirrup, at the full reach of his great toe, with such a long-legged ostentation, pricking his horse with neck-stropiat spurs, and beating the wind with his long waving limbs, even as the Turks usually do, when they are tossed at their Byrham, hanging between two high trees, reciprocally waving in the air, from the force of two long bending ropes.  
The women ride here straddling in the saddle, and if double, the man sitteth behind the woman: The women also after the death of their friends keep a ceremonious mourning twice a day, 
The Sicilian customs.  for a month's space, with such yelping, howling, shouting, and clapping of hands, as if all Sicilia were surprised by the Moors: Yet neither shedding tears, nor sorrowful in heart, for they will both hollow and laugh at one time: The same custom for the dead, the Turks observe, and all the Oriental people of Asia.  
This Island finally is famous, for the worthy Scholars she once produced: Archimedes the great Mathematician; Empidocles, the first inventor of Rhetoric; Euclid the textuary Geometrician; Diodorus Siculus that renowned Historian, and Aeshilus the first Tragedian of fame, who being walking in the fields, and bald through age, by chance, an Eagle taking his bald pate for a white rock, let a shellfish fall on it, of that bigness, that it beat out his braides.  
But to proceed in my itinerary relation having twice embarked at Messina for Italy, from Asia, and Africa, I have choosed the last time (double experience, deeper knowledge) for the discourse of my departure thence: After a general survey of this Island and Monto Bello, arriving at Messiva, 
My arrival at Messina.  Anno 1616 August 20,, I encountered with a worshipful English Gentleman Mr. Stydolffe Esquire of his Majesty's body accompanied with my Country man Mr. Wood now servant to james Earl of- Carlisle, who instantly were both come from Malta, the generous affability of which former Gentleman, to me in no small measure was extended, meeting also afterward at Naples, as in the one place shall be succinctly touched.  
Here I found some 60 Christian Galleys, assembled to the Fair of Messina, which holdeth every year the 17 of August: Wherein all sorts of Merchandise are to be sold, especially raw Silk in abundance: thirty of which Galleys went to scour the coasts of Greece. Messinai four miles distant from Rhegio in Calabria, and two miles from the opposite Maine. This Regium was that Town where Saint Paul arrived after his shipwreck at Malta in his voyage to Rome: it was miserably sacked by the Turkish Galleys of Constantinople, Anno 1609, but now by the Spaniards it is repared with stronger walls, and new fortifications, sufficiently able to gainstand any such like accidental invasions.  
In this time of mine abode here, their happily arrived from Italy my singular good friend Mr. Matthew Dowglas his Majesty's Chirurgeon extraordinary, being bound also for the Levant in the same voyage of the Christian incursions against the infiedls, whose presence to me after so long a sight of Hethnike strangers was exceeding comfortable, and did there propine him with this Sonnet (which I made on Aetna) as the peculiarbadge of my innated love.  
High stands thy top, but higher looks mine eye,  
High sores thy smoke, but higher my desire,  
High are thy rounds, steep, circled, as I see,  
But higher far this breast, whilst I aspire:  
High mounts the fury of thy burning fire,  
But higher far mine aims, transcend above:  
High bends thy force, through midst of Vulcan's ire,  
But higher flies my spirit, with wings of love.  
High press thy flames, thy crystal air to move,  
But higher moves the scope of my engine,  
High lieth the s●ow, on the proud tops I prove,  
But higher up ascends, my brave design.  
Thy height cannot surpass this cloudy frame  
But my poor soul, the highest heavens doth claim,  
Mean while with pain, I climb to view thy tops,  
Thy height makes fall from me, ten thousand drops,  
Here in Messina I found the (sometimes) great English Gallant Sir Francis Verny lying sick in a Hospital, 
The death of Sir Francis Verney.  whom six weeks before, I had met in Palermo: Who after many misfortunes in exhausting his large patrimony, abandoning his Country, and turning Turk in Tunneis; he was taken at Sea by the Sicilian Galleys: In one of which he was two years a slave, whence he was redeemed by an English jesuit, upon a promise of his conversion to the Christian faith: When set at liberty, he turned common Soldier, and herein the extremest calamity of extreme miseries, contracted Death: Whose dead Corpses I charitably interred, in the best manner, time could afford me strength, bewailing sorrowfully the miserable mutability of fortune, who from so great a Birth, had given him so mean a Burial, and truly so may I say, Sic transit gloria mundi.  
After sixteen day's attendance for passage, there fortunately accosted here twelve Neapolitan Galleys come from Apulia, and bound for Naples: in the one of which, by favour of marquis del Sancta Cruse the General, I embarked, and so set forward through the narrow Seas, which divide Italy and Sicilia: The straight whereof, is 24 miles in length, in breadth 6, 4, and 2 miles. This Sea, is called the faro of Messina, and fretum Siculum; at the West end whereof, we met with two contrary chopping tides, which somewhat rustling like unto broken Seas, did choke the Galleys with a struggling force.  

Incidit in Scyllam, Cupiens vitare Charibdim.   

Who strive to shun, the hard Portuguese coast,  
On sandy Scylla, wrestling they, are lost.   
Yet of no such eminent peril, 
A comparison of irrepugnable streams.  or repugnable Currents as be in the fifth. of Stronza & Westra; especially Pentland firth, which divideth Katnes from Pemonia, the main Land of Orknay; wherein who unskilfully looseth from either sides, may quickly lose sight, both of Life and Land for ever. As we entered in the Gulf of Saint Eufemit, we ●etched up the little Isle of Strombolo: This Isolet is a round Rock, and a mile in Compass, growing to the top like to a Pomo, or Pyramid, and not much unlike the Isolets of Basse and Elsey, through the top whereof, as through a Chimney arriseth a continual fire, and that so terrible, and furiously casting forth great stones & flames that neither Galley nor Boat, dare Coast or board it.  
South from hence, and in sight thereof, on the North Coast of Sicily lie the two Islands Valcan Maior and Minor; whereof the lesser perpetually burneth, and the greater is long since consumed. On the fourth day we touched at Ischa, the greatest Isle belonging to Naples, and 20 miles in Circuit, being strongly begirded with Rockey heights. The chief Town is Ischa, whither Ferdinando of Naples fled, being thrust out of his Kingdom by Charles the eight.  
There is a Fountain here of that incredible heat, 
A boiling Fountain in the Isle of Isha.  that in short time will boil any fish or flesh put in it, and the taste agreeable to digestion. Departing from thence, and coasting the main shore, we had a Moorish Frigate in Chafe, where seizing on her, we found 16 Moors therein, and six Christians, three Men, two Women, and a Boy, whom they had taken up, in going between two Towns by the Sea side. The Peasants were set at liberty, and the Moors immediately preferred to chains of Iron, bloody lashes, tugging of Galley oars, and perpetual slavery.  
near the marine, and in sight of Naples, we boarded close by the foot of the Hill Vesuvio, which in time past did burn, but now extinguished: It was here that the elder Pliny who had spent all his time in discovering the secrets of Nature, pressing near to behold it, was stifled with the flame, so that he died in the same place, which is most excellently described in the Book of his Epistles by his Nephew the younger.  
Arriving at Naples, I gave joyful thanks to God for my safe return to Christendom, and the day following, I went to review the ancient Monuments of Putzolo or Pute●li: Which when I had diligently remarked, in my return half way to Naples, I met the aforesaid English Gentleman and Mr. Wood, who neeedes would have me turn back to accompany them hither. When come, we took a Guide, and so proceeded in our sights: the first thing of any note we saw, 
The antiquities of Putzolo  was the stupendious Bridge, which Caius Caligula builded between Putzolo and Baia, over an arm of the Sea, two miles broad: Some huge Arches, Pillars, and fragments thereof remain unruined to this day: The next was the new made Mountain of Sand, which hath dried up Lago Lu●rino being by an Earth quake transported hither; at the foot of this ●abulous Hill, we saw the remnants of Cicero's Village.  
Thence we came to the Temple of Apollo, standing on the East side of Lacus Avernus, the Walls whereof, and pendicles (the Tecture excepted) are as yet undemolished.  
This Lake Averno is round, and hemmed in about with comely heights, being as our Guide reported infinitely deep, and in circuit a short mile. The West end whereof, is environed with the Mountain of Cuma, whither Aeneas arrived when he fled from Dido Queen of Carthage, and sister to Pygmalion King of Tyrus.  
Advancing our way, along the brink of the Lake, we came to Sybillaes' Cave, the entry being dark because of the obscure passage, between out and cut through the main Rock, our Guide struck fire, and so with a Flambo marched before us. The first passage was exceeding high Cim●, and the further end stopped with moulding earth. Inclining to our right hand, we passed through a very straight and low passage, and so arrived in Sybillaes' Chamber, which is a delicate Room, and Artificially decored with Mosaical Work: Here it is said, the Devil frequented her Company, and where she wrote her Prophecies. From thence he conducted us through a most intricate and narrow way, (wherein we were forced to walk sidling in) to a large and vast Room▪ The Rockey vault whereof, was hanging full of loose and long stones, many of which were fallen to the bottom.  
This great Cell or Hall, 
The old dining room of Sybill●.  is a yard deep of blackish Water, and was the dining Room of Sibylla. In which, hearing toward the further end, ascriking noise, as if it had been the croaking of Frogs, the hissing of Serpents, the bussing of Bees, or snarling of Wolves; we demanded our Guide from whence such a sound proceeded: Who answered, they were Dragoris and flying Serpents, praying us to Return, for the fellow was mightily afraid: Whereat I laughing, Replied, there was no such matter; and Mr Stydolffe desirous to know it, he only and I leaving the other two behind us, adventured the trial: Having more than half way entered in this Sale, stepping on huge stones because of the Water, and I carrying the Flambo, for lack of air, being so far under ground the light perished. Whereupon we hollowed to our Guide, but the Reverberating Echo avoided the sense of our words, neither would he nor durst he hazard to support us.  
Meanwhile it being Hell-darke, and impossible to find such a difficult way back, and tendering (as by duty) the worthy Gentleman, I stepped down to my middle thigh in the water, wrestling so along to keep him on the dry stones. Where indeed, I must confess, I grew affrighted, for my legs, fearing to be interlaced with water Serpents, and Snakes, for indeed the distracting noise drawn nearer and nearer us. At last, falling near the voice of our guide, who never left shouting, we returned the same way we came in, and so through the other passages, till we were in open fields.  
Here indeed for my too much curiosity, I was condiginly requited, being all bemired and wet to the middle, yet forthwith the vigorous Sun disburdened me quickly thereof: from thence (to be brief) we came to the Bagni, 
The ancient varieties of the antiquities of Putzolo.  the relics of Pompey's Village, to the fort of Baja, and the Labyrinth of Ciento Camarello, into the admirable fish ponds of Lucullus; (the coverture of which, is supported by 48 natural pillars of stony earth) to the detriments of Messina, Mercato sabbato, and the Elysian fields: Thence we returned by the sepulchre of Agricula, the mother of cruel Nero, who slit up her belly to see the matrix wherein he was conceived; and by the two decayed Temples of Venus, and Mercury: Crossing over in a boat to the Town of Putzolo, the chief monument we saw, was the ancient Temple of jupiter, who serveth now for their Domo, or Parochial Church: the latter Idolatry of which, is nothing inferior to the former.  
Meanwhile here arrived the French Galleys, fetching home Chevalier du Vandum, the Prior of France from Malta: Who scouring the coast of the lower Barbary, their fortune was to fall upon a misfortunate English ship belonging to Captain Pennington, which they, as a Cursaro or man of war, confiscated. Their Anchors fallen, I boarded the Queen's Galley, where to my great grief I found a Countryman of special acquaintance, George Gib of Burowtownnes (who was Pilot to the English) fast chained to an oar, 
The Master of a Scots ship distressed by evil misfortune.  with shaved head and face: Who had his own ship twice seized on by the Turks, at Mamora: which ship he lastly recovered at the Isle Sardinia, and sold her at Naples being miserably worm eaten. To whose undeserved miseries, in my charitable love, I made a Christian oath, that at my arrival in England, I should procure, by the help of his friends, his Majesty's letters to the Duke of Guyse Admiral, for hindeliverance. But soon thereafter, being of a great spirit, his heart broke, and so died in Marseiles.  

Tempora labuntur, tacitisque senescimus annis,  
Et fugiwnt fraeno non remorante Dies.   

Times slide away, grey heirs come postring on,  
No reign can hold our days so swiftly gone▪   
Departing from Putzolo, we came to the Selphatara, where the fine Brimstone is made, which is a pretty encircling Plain, standing upon a moderate height; having three vents, through two of which, the smoking flame ariseth, & the other produceth no fire; but after an excessive rain surgeth six foot high with black boiling water, which continueth so long as the rain lasteth.  
From thence (our Guide leaving us) we came to Grotto di can; wherein if a Dog be cast he well suddenly die, and taken thence, and cast in the Lake, he will forthwith revive: this Grotto or Cave, standeth on the side and root of a sulphur hill, the brink of Lago di Avagno: We desirous to make trial of a Dog; and finding the fellow that purposely stayeth there, somewhat extortionable, I adventured in stead of a Dog to make trial of myself; Whereupon Master Stydolffe holding up the quarrered door, I entered to the further end thereof, bringing back a warm stone in each hand from thence, whereat the Italians swore, I was a Devil and not a man: for behold (say they) there was a French Gentleman the former year, who in a bravado, would needs go in; whereupon he was presently stifled to death, and here lieth buried at the mouth of the Grotto, to serve for a caveat, to all rash and unadvised strangers to do the like.  
The relation indeed was true, 
The dangerous Dog's Cave near unto Putzolo.  put I counting nothing of it, would needs (sore against the Gentleman and Master Woods will) go in again, where entered to the bottom, being ten paces long, the moist and choking heat did so suffocate and benumb my senses, that with much ado I returned back; where receiving the fresh air, and a little Wine, I presently forgot my former trance: which when the Dog-keeper saw, he for an easy composition made trial of his Dog; and having tied a string to his hinder leg, he cast the Dog scarce half way in the Cave, where immediately his tongue hanging out, he fell down dead: And forthwith his Master repulling him back, cast him in the Lake, pouring in water in his ears, but he never could recover his life. Whereupon the poor man cried out, alas I am undone, what shall I do, the Dog that won my daily fo●d is dead; in compassion whereof, the worthy Gentleman doubled his wages.  
In our way and return to Naples, we passed through Virgil's Grot, being half a mile long, and cut through a the main body of a Rock, whereby the Mountain of Cataja by the Seaside is made passable; at the East end whereof near the Cyme of the vault is Virgil's Tomb: and arrived at Naples, Mr. William Stydolffe reporting to divers of his Country Gentlemen and mine, of mine adventure in Grotto di Cane, they could hardly be persuaded to believe it: But when avouched, they all avowed I had done that (so did divers Neapolitans) which never man had done before me reserving life.  
Bidding farewell to my generous friends, I marched through Terra di lavora, and in the way of Saint German, and Mount Cassino to Rome; within ten miles of Capua, I found the poorest Bishop (Nomen sine re) the world affordeth: having no more (nor never had he, nor any before him) than dui Carolini or juletti, twelve pence a day to spend. So is there many a marquis, Earl, Baron, and Knight in Italy, 
Great poverty under gr●●t titles.  who is unable at one time to keep a footman at his heels, a Dog at his foot, a Horse between his legs, a good suit of clothes on his back, and his belly well ●ed, so glorious are their styles and so miserable their revenues.  
Touching at Rome, I secretly borrowed one nights lodging there, and at the break of day, another hour's sight and conference, with my Cousin Simeon Grahame; who ere the Sun arose crossing Ponto flamingo, brought me on in my journey, till a high way Tavern like a jail, held us both fast, where leaving our reciprocal loves behind us, we divided our body's East and West.  
And now ere I leave Rome, I think it best to let our Papists hear at home, see the shameful lives & cruel deaths, of most of their Popes beyond Seas: which their own best Authors in France, Italy, and Spain, having justly and condignly avouched and recorded; & authorised also to light by their prime powers civil & spiritual. The Papists generally hold, that in their pope's, is all power, Super omnes Potestates, tam Coeli, quam Terrae; above all powers both in Heaven and Earth: They term him Alter Deus in Terris; a second God upon the Earth, Deus mortalis in terris, ei immortalis homo in Coelis; a mortal God upon the Earth, and an Immortal man in the Heavens: Some of them have allotted, that he is Non Deus, non homo, sed utrunque; neither God nor man, but both: The pope's former title was Servus servorum Dei; and they call him Rex Regum, Dominus Dominantium, King of Kings, and Lord of Lords.  
Paul the third, 
The false and arrogant titles of the Pope.  entering Tolentino in the vale of Ombria joining with Tuscany, had this salutation. Paulo tertio, Maximo, in terris Deo; to Paul the Third, the best and greatest God on earth. Then since they will have them Gods above the God of Gods; tell me I pray you, what a May pole Dancer, was john 12, alias 13, of 18 years old, who made the Lateran their great Church in Rome, a plain Stew or Brothel house?  
What a pope-boy of twelve years old, was Benedict the ninth? and after wrought by enchantments. Another Pope they had, whom they called Vnum pecus, in eo quod de mane faciebat gratiam, & de sero revocabat: A very Ass, for in the morning he would grant many great kindnesses, and at night revoke them all again. What a thief was pope Boniface the seventh? who rob St. Peter's Church? what a Sodomitical Pope was Sixtus the fourth? who builded Stews of both kinds, granting his Cardinals the use of Sodomy, for three whole months. What an Atheistical pope, was Leo the tenth, who called the Gospel a Fable? What a Heretical pope was Honorius the first? who by six general Counsels, was condemned for a Monothelite? What a perjured Pope was Gregory the twelfth? and openly forsworn: What a Necromancer was Silvester the second? who gave himself both soul and body to the devil, to attain the Popedom: What was Pope john the eleventh, but a bastardly brat to pope Sergius? What a sorcerer, Charmer, and Conjurer, was Hildebrand called Gregory the seventh? given to all beastliness and diabolical practices? this was he that threw the Sacrament in the fire: what was Innocent the third? who was branded with this black mark, non est Innocentius, imo nocens vere, he is not innocent, but very nocent: What a wicked and cruel murderer was john the twelfth a Roman borne, 
A tract of beastly Popes and cruel villains.  who caused to cut off the nose of one Cardinal, and the thumb of another Cardinal; only because they had wrote the whole tract of his abominable vices to the Emperor Otho.  
What an inhuman and homicidious Pope was Stephanus the seventh, who after he had canceled the decrees of his predecessor Formosus, caused to deter his dead body, cut off his fingers and lay him in the fields to be devoured by the fowls of the air? What a beastly pope was Sergius the third, that after he had imprisoned Christopholus his predecessor, he caused to draw out the corpse of pope Formosus his old competitor, from the grave, and cut off his head, as though he had been alive.  
What a cruelty was shown upon john the 17, who after he was deprived his papacy, had his eyes pulled out, his nose cut off and his members, and was hanged: What a poisonable pope was Damasus? who poisoned his predecessor Clemens the second, to attain the papality, and yet died within a month there after being pope: What a merciless pope was Boniface the seventh, that after he had Robbed St. Peter's Church and fled to Constantinople, hearing that Pope john the 14 was replaced, he returned and pulling out his eyes, did cast him in prison, where he died of extreme hunger. What a persecution had Gelase borne in Gaetta near Naples, who first by the Romans was imprisoned, then stoned through the City, miserably died: Gregory the 8 succeeding him, was Deposed by Caliste brother to the Duke of Burgundy, who imprisoned the other, and starving him to Death, made himself Pope.  
What devotion fell out from the brains of Rome, to stone Pope Lucius the second to Death: what a shameful division was in your Papality for fifty years, when Vrbanus lived Pope at Rome and his Successors, and Clemens 7 and his Successors at Avigneon. Nay, you have had three Popes at one time; even when Sigismond King of Hungary and Boheme was elected Emperor, 
Three several Popes living at one time.  to wit, Benedict 3 at Avignion: john the 23, at Bullogna; and Gregory the twelfth at Rimini: I pray you, could ever one of them open and shut the Gates of Heaven and Hell. What an Infidel was Pope john 22 who denied the immorality of the Soul.  
What was Clement the 5 but an open Whoremunger and a drunken sot. What was Boniface the 8 he was called a Thief, Robber, and rooted in all unspeakable sins, the eight Nero of Rome. What a furious and wicked Pope, was julius the second: who given more to War then to Christ, cast Saint Peter's keys (as they call them) into Tiber: what a profane skoffer of Christ, was Paul the third: who lying in bed with his own Cousin Laura Farnesia, was sore wounded by her Husband: he lay with his own Daughter, and poisoned her Husband; and then lay with his own sister, and after poisoned poth her and his own mother. What was julius the third, an open Sodomite, and horrible blasphemer. What was Pope Engenius, a damnable scandalzer of the Church, and condemned by the Counsel of Basil for an incorrigible and wilful Heretic. Pope john 23 was deposed by the counsel of Constance, for Heresy, Simony, Murder, Enchantment, Adultery, and worst of all, for Sodomy. What was Pope john 13 a vild monster in his life, committing incest with both his sisters & father's Concubine Stephana: 
The Papists may look here upon devilish Popes.  He was a gamester, and playing at Dice, did call for help to the Devil, and would drink to the Devil's health; he was replete with all abominable vices: at last being taken in the act of adultery, was wounded to death.  
Boniface the 8 aforenamed, came to be Pope by cozening his predecessor Celestine, in speaking through the Wall in a Reed (as if it had been a voice from heaven) admonished him to surrender his Papacy; whose Epithit was thus: Intravit ut Vulpes, Regnavit ut Lupus, Mortuus est ut Canis: He come in like a Fox, he ruled like a Wolf, he died like a Dog.  
At the sixth Counsel of Carthage, was not the treachery and falsehood of Pope Zosimus condignly sifted out in corrupting for ambitious government the Counsel of Nice. Bernard about 500 years ago complained much of the tyranny of the Popes in his time, calling them Defrauders, Raveners, Traitors, darkness of the world, Pilat's, Wolves and Devils.  
Albertus Magnus affirmeth, that they who now govern their Church are for the most part Thiefs and Murderers. And Platina, calleth some of their Pope's vile monsters, unclean beasts, and strange creatures. And I remember it was noted by an Historian; Episcopos Romanos ne peccata quidem sine laude committere: The pope's could do nothing, were it never so mischievous, but it was commendable.  
And even likewise their prime pardons, for Noxas, praeteritas, aut futuras: and their future potestatem, tam quoad commissa quam quoad committenda crimina absolvenda; That his Holiness hath all manner of power, as well to absolve them from crimes to commit, as from crimes committed. And I remember about twenty years ago, 
A false canonised Saint.  Paul, Papa quinto, Cannonized Carolo Borrameo, the late Bishop of Milan for a notable Saint, being known to be a notorious and scelerate liver, done sooner by fifteen years then their ordinary time, and that for the touch of forty thousand Ducats; allotting prayers, Miracles, pardons, and pilgrimages to him, erecting a new Order of Friars, and Monasteries unto him. And yet the poor Bishop of Lodi, a good & charitable liver by all reports, could never, nor cannot attain to the dignity of a Saint, his means was so small when dead, and his friends so poor being alive.  
And how wonderful absurd is the pope's Bulladi Santa Cruzada, pro defunctis in Purgatory, that for one Pater noster, at a Mass saying, or a Mass said them: Si cavano fuora dalla Purgatorio, tre anime qualche ci vogliano, viz. You shall relief any three souls out of purgatory whom you please. Nay I have seen the pope's Edict so gracious, that enduring one Mass, as many Pater's as you can recite, as many souls you free from thence.  
And thus me thinketh in one half year, he might soon empty that purging pit: Yet unless the Suppliant touch with his finger during his prayers a gaudy beede inraveled between five small fast made irons placed before the Altar; their Balla, their payment for it, their Pater's, their devotion for their friends souls, are all lost. They say if peradventure, the friends of the defunct be oblivious in this officiousness, and neglect both the Ceremony, and Pater noster, might not the Pope justly be reputed a cruel Monster, that for want of pattering an abridged Pater, his Cerberian Office in Hell, should detain any poor soul in such torments, as they say are in Purgatory.  
Infinite passages of the like kind could I recite, if I had longer time and larger leisure; and especially of their miraculous lies, or lying Miracles; in erecting of falsehood, and maintaining of perjury; but till a fitter occasion, I will revert to my Itinerary Discourse, and so proceed. Having left mine aforesaid friend Master Grahame at a Tavern at Bilbo near to Rome, I set forward through the vale of Ombria, and the Country Romania, whereof Ravenna is Lady, 
Ravenna the chief City of Rom●nia.  and the Pope Lord, I arrived (the way of Ferrara and Milan) at Venice. Who then was levying an army against the Croation Scokes of Gradisca, and the Duke of Grasso now Emperor, of which Army Count Mansfield was general, and with whom I crossed the Gulf to Pola in Istria, and from thence to the siege of Gradisea: The discourse whereof, I have here formerly avouched in the second part of my first Travails. Now to speak of a Soldier, certainly he is more than praiseworthy and fortunate, that hath faced the Low Countries, reviewed Briscia in Lombardy, and footed and sighted the Arsenal of Venice; then his eyes have first seen, the sons, the force, the policies and Kingdom of Mars: Secondly the fiery shop of Vulcan, where rarest Arms and Weapons are hammered out upon the Anvil, for the honour of Mars; and lastly the incomparable Armoury or store-house for Sea & Land, the Magazine and treasury of Mars.  
Now leaving both the armies barking at other like to Hercanian wolves, I traced the fertile soils of Carindia, Carneola and Stria, even to Vienna, all which were subject to the Emperor, save a part of Carneola, that groans under the Turk. Being arrived at Vienna, I found the Town, 
Vienna in Austria no way answerable to common fame.  and the flying fame of it far different, either for greatness, strength, or wealth: for the Town rising upon a moderate height circular, is but of small compass without, nor passing two English miles.  
The suburbs round about, being twice as great as the Town; and the strength of it is no way comparable to a hundred Cities that I have seen, neither is it for wealth so much to be admired, being depraved of Seas, shipping, and navigaion, having only the needful prosperity of dry land Towns.  
Here I found a Turkish Ambassador, going down the Champion Danubio of Europe, for Constantinople, and with him Gratianus a Greek his Interpreter, to whose familiar love I was much obliged; and with whom I embarked down the river to Presburg: a place where the Hungarian Crown is kept, and from thence descending the River to Comorre, the downmost Town the Emperor retaineth on Danubio, I left my noble interpreter, and traversed the Champain Country.  
The Chief Towns whereof I will briefly touch, & so proceed Buda: is the capital City of Hungary, wherein the Turkish Bassaw hath his residence and was taken in by Solyman the Emperor the twenty of August 1526. the other is the aforesaid Presburge anciently Bosonia; the rest are Belgrade or Albegreck, anciently Taurinum, in Dutch Griches: Weissenberg, that was taken by Soliman, 1520 Valpa, and Singidum, upon the Danubio, both under the Turk, and that of the seven Churches upon the River Drana taken in, in the year one thousand five hundred and forty three, and Zigeth taken also in the year one thousand five hundred sixty six.  
Moreover upon the Danubio, the town Strigonium commonly Grana, 
The speciali● towns of Hungary.  and Alberoyall, otherwise Stulvesenburg; a place destined for the Sepultures and Coronations of the Kings of Hungary, and was taken by the Turks Anno 1543.  
Near the same place is Stridon, whey they say Saint Jerome was borne: And now above all other, the strong Town of Gamorra, standeth in an Isle of the Danuby of that same name, which the Turks have so oft besieged, yet never could surprise it.  
There is also Tockay, and jawarin or Rab seated too upon Danuby, a Town as it were impregnable, yet it was overtaken by the Turks, and lastly recovered by the Christians.  
The Beglerbeg of Buda, 
The forces of the Bassa of B●da.  hath under his command, eight thousand Timariot, and twelve thousand common Soldiers which lie in Garrison, in continual pay on the confines of Hungary, Croatia, and Dacia, and these confines belonging to the house of Austria: The Bassa hath under his authority 13 Sanzacks', lying at these thirteen Towns here undernamed, to wit; Novaguard, Semendria Simontorno, Zetshen, Ecclesia, Sirnium, Capan, Zornock, Alba Regalis, Sigedin, Mucchatz, Zege●in, and Sexad.  
The other Begberbegship of Hungary is at Temesara, who retaineth under his command eight Sanzacks' and as many jurisdictions, spreading his authority over six thousand Timariot, and eight thousand foot soldiers, and these Sanzacks' lying at Temesara, Lippa, Itishinad, Mudania, etc. The great Turk hath eight Beglerbegs or Bassawes under him in Europe; that of Bosna being one of them, who commandeth ten Sanzacks' and eight thousand Timariot: the residence of which Bassa is at Bagivialezza, a commodious place lying in the midst of circulating Provinces, over which he spreads the Ballucco of his power.  
The soil of Hungary aboundeth infinitely in all things the earth can produce for the use of man; 
Hungary is a most fertile and fruitful soil.  and produceth admirable good Wines, the best whereof grow near and about the Town of Sermi●, and so sweet, that they may compare with the Wines of Candy, yea and aboundeth in all kind of bestial, that it is thought this Kingdom may furnish all Europe with Beef and Mutton.  
The Hungarians are descended of the Huns, a people of Scythia or Tartary. The ancient Inhabitants divided their hàbitations in nine circles, which the Germans named Hagyes, and impaled them with high walls, made of earth and wood being twenty foot high, and as much in breadth, 
The first plantation of Hungary.  being rampired with divers Bulwarks, and towers of earth, whereon grew all sorts of hear●s, and fructiferous trees.  
The space from side to side of each one of these circles, amounteth to twenty Dutch miles, the Towns, Villages and houses being within, and so contrived, that each one was within cry of an other, this was the first admirable plantation of the Huns in this Kingdom.  
The Hungarians have ever been thiftuous, treacherous and false, so that one brother will hardly trust another; which infidelity among themselves and distracted deceitful governor's, was the chiefest cause of their overthrow and subjection under Infidels: And so have corrupt Counselors, and insolent Princes been the ruin of their own Kingdoms; for if we would have a Prince fit to govern others, and so direct himself with the square rules of wisdom and judgement, to know how to become all places, and to use all fortunes, let him bind his tender youth with a disposition tempered with sadness: for such a man can never seduce his minority with ill examples, nor mar his waxen age with a false impression, too common a condition of these dess●lute times.  
Now as for the Hunger soil, 
The infinite riches of Hungary.  and Kingdom itself, & for the goodness of it, it may be termed the girnell of Ceres, the garden of Bacchus, the Pastorage of Pan, and the richest beauty of Sylvan: for I found the wheat here growing higher than my head, the vines over looking the trees, the Grass jusling with my knees, and the high-sprung Woods, threatening the clouds: surely if I should enter on particulars here, I have more subject to work upon, than any kingdom that ever I saw: The kingdom is diviped in two parts the higher and the lower, the lowest, largest, and best is under the Turk, and the other narrow proportion under the Emperor.  
The Hungarian miles are the longest upon the earth, for every one of theirs, is six of our Scots miles, nine English: so that the most that ever I could travel in one day, was but six miles: Their language hath no affinity with any other kind of speech, and yet the greatest part of the Country both under the Turk and Emperor, are Protestants, and are the best of all the rest, the rest being Arians and papists.  
There is a great Gentry in this Kingdom, but untravelled abroad, far less mannerly at home, being luxurious and ill taught, and damnably given to that Masculine misery, the whole Southern World is defiled with. Having now traversed all the country to Grana, and so to Gatterad in Valechia, I found the Country so covered with Woods, and them full of Murderers, (for I was robbed on these confines, and hardly saved my life) I was constrained I say, to return to Tockai in the higher Hungary, and from thence in one day I stepped into Transilvania.  
This done, and for their better security, they carried me a little out of the way, and bound my naked body fast about the middle to an Oaken tree, with wooden ropes, and my arms backward so likewise: swearing to me, that if I cried for help, or hindered them of their designs before the Sunset, they would turnback and kill me; promising then to set me free.  
But night come, 
A joyful deliverance from a desperate thraldom.  and I forgotten, was left herein a trembling fear, for Wolves and wild Boars, till the morrow; were at last, by God's providence, I was relieved in the morning by a company of Herds: who clothing me with an old long coat of theirs, and refreshing me with meat, one of them carried me five leagues unto the Lord of the ground, the Baron of Starholds a Moldavian Protestant, with whom I stayed fifteen days: And wa● more than repaired of all my losses, by his own bounty, and noble Kinsmen, his neighbouring friends, and would not suffer me to go any further in the Country, because of the Turks jealousy over strangers, in regard it was but lately wrested from a Christian Prince, with whom I was conversant at Constantinople in Sir Thomas Glover, the Ambassadors house.  
Well, I yield to the Noble man's counsel, and giving him all dutiful thanks for his kind regards, he sent a guide with me for two day's journey through a part of Podolia, the upmost Country of Polland, bordering with Tartary.  
The half of which Country, I found left disinhabited and desolate by incursions of Tartarians. Here I determined to have entered Tartary, but finding no conduct not assurance of my safety, I continued my course to Crocavia; situate on the upper Frontiers of Polland bordering with Hungary.  
Tartary is thought to be six hundred leagues in length, confining Eastward with China, to the South with the Caspian Sea, to the North with R●ssia, and to the West with Podolia, and Muldavia.  
The Tartars are not expert in War, 
The Tartars are mighty oppressors of Podolia in Polland.  neither are they so valorous as the Turks, not so manly as the Polonians, who counter blow them at rencounters; nevertheless by stealth of inroads, they mightily suppress the extremest parts of Poland. The Turks term the Cham or Emperor of Tartary, Vlakim, that is a great Prince and the Moscovites call him Catzar Cataiskci, to wit, the Caesar of Cataia: And he is so obeyed and reverenced among the Tartars, that they intitulate him the Son of God, the man of God, and the foul of God: yea, and the greatest Oath that they think can be sworn, which they usually do in ma●●ers of fidelity and great importance, is by his Throne Royal.  
This custom of idolatrous obeisance came first by one Rangavistah, who being chosen to be their Emperor, would try their promptness and good will of obedience towards him, commanding seven of his chiefest Princes, and head Governors under him of the people, to to kill their infants, with their own hands.  
And notwithstanding the Commandment seemed very rude and intolerable, yet they fearing the common people, who esteem their Emperors to be the divine Kinsmen (as it were) of God; they did cut the throats every one of them, of their own Children, before his own eyes, and the sight of the people.  
Insomuch, that ever since, the life and death of the Tartars, depend upon the goodwill, and word of the King, which no way they dare contradict; such is the ignorant reverence they carry toward him.  
The Tartarians, for the most part are small of body, their eyes gross, and bolstering out, their faces be broad and without hair, saving that in their upper Lip and Chin, they have thin and moist hair; they be commonly slender in the middle; they shave their heads from one ear to the other, by the top of the Crown to the hinder part, keeping long hair like unto a woman, whereof they make two folds or pleats, and so bind them both behind the ears; and so be all other shaved that live amongst them. They be excellent horsemen, and ill footmen; and therefore none goeth a foot, but rides either on horseback, or upon some other beast, as Oxen, or Cowes. They take great pride to hang Bells and other Tassels of silk about their horses necks, to make them show comely, and a means because of their Bells, to keep them from tiring, being hung at their ears: When they drink, they pour it in till they be drunken, which they take as a great glory or Conquest among them, who can carry most drink; a custom too much used here in England, which I could wish were left; For the glory of a drunkard is his own shame. They have no bread, nor use any baking, nor Tablecloths, nor Towels; they use no handkerchiefs, nor seldom or never do they wash their hands, body, or apparel. They eat no potherbs, nor pulse; but only the flesh of all kind of living things, not caring whether clean or unclean creatures, as dogs, horses, etc. They roast the bodies of such parties as they take in war, to show their cruelty, and desire of revenge: And where many meet together in the eating of them, they tear them with their teeth like Wolves, and drink their blood, which they reserved before in Cups, otherwise they drink Cow's Milk.  
It is a heinous thing with them to suffer any drink to be lost, or any meat cast away; and therefore they cast no bones to Dogs, before they have broken the bones and taken out the Marrow. In war they have swords of a yard long: their horsemen are very skilful in discharging their Pistols. Their Princes never enter into war, but standing afar off, they call unto their own company, to be of good courage, and exhort them to be resolute, and fight manfully. They most commonly carry their wives and children with them, because their wives are attired like men: they also carry Images of men on Horseback to their wars, which they think is a point of policy, that they may seem a great number, and to dishearten their enemies. They count it no dishonour or shame to run away from their enemies, if they find themselves to be too weak for them. And if they do get the victory, they spare none, neither women nor children, young, nor old: They give quarter to none, but only to those who are Artificers, and handicraft's men, whom they reserve for their own uses: They are very incontinent, and therefore they are suffered to take as many wives as they please; they except none, neither mother, daughter, or sister, and they are given much to Sodomy. They do not esteem of any other women as of their wives, nor do they think her worthy of any Dowry, before that she hath brought forth a child: They may refuse any wife which they have, if they be barren, and may take another. They that are taken in the act of Adultery, are surely put to death by their Law, having no pity showed them. No man maketh water in his house, if he doth, he is sure to be slain: if necessity compelled him, that he could not stay, than his Tent and other things therein, are purified and aired with fire, and other curious scen●s.  
When they choose and elect their Prince, they meet together in a large field, and then they set him a stately Throne richly guilded, placed in the view of all that are then present, and falling down before him, they proclaim all after this sort, and with one consent. We beseech, we will, and command, that thou bear rule over us. Then their new King which is chosen answereth: If you will have this done of me, it is necessary, that you be ready to do all that I shall command you: When I call▪ to come: and wheresoever I send, to go: and to commit and put the whale rule into our hands: when they have answered, We be ready; he saith again, Therefore my word shall be my sword; then all the people clap their hands with great rejoicing. Then the Noble men take him from the Regal Seat, and make him to sit softly upon a Cushion, or Carpet upon the ground, saying thus: Look up, and acknowledge God; and look downward to the Cushion whereon thou fittest: if thou dost govern and rule well, thou shalt have all things according to thy de●ire: But if thou dost ill, thou shalt be brought so low and so bare, that this small Cushion whereon thou fittest, shall not be left thee. At which saying, they adjoin unto him his dearest and best beloved wife, and lifting them both up with the Cushion, they salute them as their Emperor and head.  
Then to such as be present at this Ceremony, of other Nations, he commandeth gifts to be given them out of hand: there is also all the treasure and jewels which the late deceased Emperor left, wherewith this new Emperor rewardeth every Noble man; and that which remaineth he commandeth to be kept for his own use. The Seal that he useth to seal with hath these words engraven about it: God in heaven; and Chuithuth Cham on the Land; the strength of God in heaven, and the Emperor of men on earth. He himself speaks not to strange Ambassadors, nor come they at any time in his sight, except they, and their presents which they bring with them, have been first aired certain days. He giveth his answer by some of his meanest Noble men, to whom, when, and how long soever he speaketh, they ought to give ear upon their knees bowed, and so attend; and they that deliver the Emperor's mind, dare not err so much as in a word.  
As for the idolatrous Rites they use at his death, in enclosing or interring quick in a Vault near to his Tomb, 
A love not worthy things  one of every Office that he loved best, being alive, to go serve him in paradise; I will not meddle with it, neither with the vulgars' superstition, who religiously feast upon the Corpses of their aged parents, and then do burn their bones into ashes, giving them such a burial as we give our witches; for indeed the worms come short among the dead Tartars of their food.  
Being arrived in Cro●ko or Crocavia, 
The Count of Torn● fled from Prage to Poland.  the Capital City of Poland (though of small importance) I met with divers Scottish Merchants, who were wonderful glad of mine arrival there, especially the two brothers dickson's, men of singular note for honesty and wealth. It was my luck here, to be acquainted with Count du Torn, the first Noble man of Boheme, who had newly broke out of prison in Prage, and fled hither for safety, Mathias then being Emperor, against whom he had mightily offended, in boasting him in his bedchamber with hard and intolerable speeches; saying to Mathias in his face, and before his wife the Empress: Lo, there is the right hand that helped to put the Imperial Crown on thy head, & behold now there is my foot shall strike it off again. This fugitive Earl stayed me with him ten days, to discourse and bear him company, for than he had but only one follower that came post with him: I found him Princely disposed in all things, and very familiar in his carriage: At last his train and treasure coming with many more Bohemian Barons, and Gentlemen his friends, I humbly left him, and touching at Lubilina, where the Judges of Poland sit for half the year, I arrived at Warsow, the resident place for the King Sigismond, 
This Sigismond King of Poland did marry two sisters of Ferdinando's now Emperor.  who had newly married the other sister of his former wife, being both sisters to this Ferdinando now Emperor: A match I dare say more fit for the savage Sabuncks of Lybia, than for a Christian Prince, or Shepherd.  
But it is no matter, Pope Paul●s Quintus gave him licence, and in that liberty, a wild passage to purgatory: who, when dead, that incestuous guilt will be royally purged; lo there his pontifical absolution.  
Between Crocavia, and Warsow, Lubilina lieth half way; it is a hundred Polonian miles, or French Leagues: Here I found abundance of gallant rich Merchants my Countrymen, who were all very kind to me, and so were they by the way in every place where I came; the conclusion being ever sealed with deep draughts, and God be with you.  
Poland is a large and mighty Kingdom, puissant in Horsemen, and populous of strangers; being charged with a proud Nobility, a familiar and manly gentry, and a r●vidous vulgarity: They are all, for the most part, of square and thick bodies, having Bull-necks, great thighs and legs, grim, and broad faces, and commonly their shaved heads are finely covered with overthwarting strokes of crooked Shables: for they, and the Armenians of Asia are of stature and thickness the biggest and grossest people the world affordeth.  
The foil is wonderful fruitful of Corns, so that this Country is become the most fruitfulst place of Western Europe, for all sorts of grain, besides Honey, Wax, Flax, Iron, and other commodities; And for auspicuousnesse, I may rather term it to be a Mother and Nurse, for the youths, and younglins of Scotland, 
Poland is the Nurse of Scotland's younglins.  who are yearly sent hither in great numbers, than a proper Dame for her own birth; in clothing, feeding, and enriching them with the fatness of her best things; besides thirty thousand Scots families, that live incorporate in her Bowels. And certainly Poland may be termed in this kind to be the mother of our Commons, and the first commencement of all our best Merchants wealth, or at the least mos● part of them.  
And now ceasing to peramble through any more particulars of this familiar Nation to us, I was kindly transported from Warsow upon a Wagon to Dansicke, being fifty Leagues distant, with a generous young Merchant William Bailey, my kind Countryman, to whose courtesies I still rest thankful.  
Here in Dansick● I fell deadly sick for three Weeks space, insomuch that my grave and Tomb was prepared by my Countrymen there.  
Nevertheless, in end (it pleased Almighty God) I recovered my health, and then embarked for Alseynure in Denmark, where being better convalessed, I recoursed back in a Flemish Pink to Stockhollem: where, after five or six days being there, and finding my sickness like to return again, and fearing the worst, I made haste for England.  
At last finding the opportunity of an English ship belonging to Ratcliff, we hoist sail, & set forward through the Sound or Baltic Sea, for Alseynvere again: Whence, after three day's abode, bidding farewell to that Town and Castle, we coasted the scurrile and rocky face of Norway, at two several parts, but not without great storms, and contrary winds; yea, and once finally endangered with a threatening Shipwreck, which with good luck we happily escaped.  
These tempestuous dangers past, upon the seventh day the winds favouring us, we safely arrived at London, from whence I first began this Voyage, and there ended my second Peregrination.  
Magnum virtutis principiumest, ut dixit paulatim exercitatus animus visibilia & tran●itoria primum Commutare, ut post-modum possit derelinquere. Delicatus ille est adhue, cui patria dulcis est, fortis autem jam cui omne solum patria est: perfectus ver●, cui mundus exilium est.  
The end of the Second Book, of my Second Travails.    


The Tenth Part.  
Containing the third Book of my Third Travails.  
NOw swollen ambition bred from curious toil  
Invites my feet, to tread parched Aethiops Soil,  
To sight great Prester I●han, and his Empire;  
That mighty King, their Prince, their Priest, their Sire;  
Their Laws, Religion, Manners, Life and frame,  
And Amais, mount-raised, Library of ●ame.  
Well, I am sped, bids England's Court adieu,  
And by the way the Hiberne bo●nds I view;  
In whose defects, the truth like razor sharp  
Shall sadly tune, my new stringed Irish Harp:  
Then sound I France, and crossed the Pythen●ise  
At the Columbian heights which threat the skies;  
And coasting Pampelon, I 〈◊〉 all Spain▪  
From Be●obia, to Jubilee Taure again.  
Then rest'd at Malaga, where I was shent  
And taken for a Spy, crushed, racked, and rent.  
Where ah! (when Treason tried) by false position;  
They wrest'd on me their lawless Inquisition:  
Which after Tortures, Hunger, Vermin 〈◊〉,  
Condemned me quick, stake-bound, to burn in ashes.  
God's providence comes in, and I'm discovered  
By Merchant's means, by Aston last delivered:  
Where noble Maunsell, General of that Fleet,  
That I was racked for; did kind Haulkins greet,  
With strict command▪ to send me home for Court,  
To show King James, my torments, pangs, and tort:  
Lo I am come, to Bath I'm sent, and more  
Mine hopeless life, made Worlds my sight deplore;  
Which here I'll sing, in Tragic tune to all  
That love the Truth, and look for Babel's fall.  
BUt now having finished the two Descriptions, of my first and second Adventures; it rest n●w most necessary, to relate the Meritorious design, and miserable effect of my third Voyage. After I had (I say) by the great providence of God, escaped infinite dangers by Seas, suffering thrice shipwreck: by Land, in Woods, and on Mountains often invaded; by ravenous Beasts, crawling and venomous Worms daily encumbered; by homebred Robbers, and remote Savages five times stripped to the skin; excessive fastidiousness, unspeakable adversities, parching heats, scorching drought, intolerable distresses of hunger, imprisonments, and cold; yet all these almost incredible sufferings passed, could never abate the flame of mine austiere affection conceived; but ambitious curiosity, exposing me to a third Voyage, I may say as Aene●s did in his penitential Mood: 
O socij neque eni●i ignari sumus, ante malorum,  
O passi graviora, dabit Deus his quoque finem.  
O Socials! we're not ignorant of losses,  
O sufferings sad, God too, will end these prosses.   
But to observe a methodical order, I think it best to show the unacquainted Reader, a reasonable satisfaction for undertaking the third, and almost invincible attempt  
First, the most special and urgent cause, proceeded from a necessary good (the necessity of knowledge) in the requisite perfection of Europe's full and spacious sight, the ancient Tierce, and now most Christian world; wanting former no part thereof unseen, as well under the Turk as Christian, except Ireland and the half of Spain.  
The second cause was moved from a more insatiate content, 
Certain approved reasons.  that when I had, and having compassed all Europe, my resolution was to borrow a larger dimmense of ground in Africa than formerly I had done in twice before, even to Aethiopia▪ Prester▪ jehans' Dominions. For the same effect, and a great impression to my Resolution, I set pen to paper, drawing from the distaff of the retractable Muses, a Poetical pamphlet; Dedicated to themselves, to their profound Apollo, his then hopeful Heir, and divers Noble Peers of both Kingdoms.  
And having from a Royal favour obtained his Majesty's Letters and Seals of safe Conduct, and Regal recommendation to all Kings, Princes, and Dukes, etc. I in all obsequious humility bad farewell to this sequestrate and most auspicuous Monarchy; and arriving at Dublin in Ireland, the two and twentieth of August, one thousand six hundred and nineteen, I saluted the right Honourable Sir Oliver St. john's late Lord Grandison, and then Lord Deputy there, from whom for regard and singular courtesies, I was greatly obliged: So was I also to many of the English Nobility and Knighthood there: who through the whole Country where ever I came entertained me kindly, sending Guides with me from place to place; yea, and sometimes safeguards also; beside in their houses great good cheer and welcome. But in special a dutiful remembrance I owe, to the memory of that sometimes judicious and religious Lord Arthu●▪ late Lord Chichester, 
The matchless Lord of Chichester for virtue, wisdom, and valour.  Baron of Belfast, etc. Who in his time, for Virtue, Wisdom, and Valour, wore the Diadem of Love, and Garland of true Nobleness: Of whom, and for whose loss, if I should more praise, and longer lament, my ink would turn to brinish tears, and I to helpless sorrow: But leaving him who lived in goodness here, and now in glory for ever, I celebrate these Lines to his eternal Fame.  
If ever Bounty shined in loyal breast?  
If ever judgement, flowed from generous mouth?  
If ever Viceroy ruled this Kingdom best?  
If ever Valour, honoured hopeful youth?  
If ever Wisdom, Astrea's worth possessed?  
If ever Virtue, was inclined to ruth?  
If ever justice, enormities redressed?  
If ever Patron, pattern was of truth?  
Then noble Chichester, the Heavens assign,  
These gifts (thy honoured parts) were truly thine.  
And now after a general survey of the whole Kingdom, (the Northwest part of Canoch excepted) accomplished: from the first of September till the last of February; I found the goodness of the Soil, more than answerable to mine expectation, the defect only remaining (not speaking of our Colonies) in the people, and from them, in the bosom of two graceless Sisters, Ignorance and Sluggishness.  
This Kingdom is divided in four provinces, although some allude five, that is, Eastern and Western Maith, but they are understood to be annexed to Leinster: 
The four Provinces of Ireland.  Their names are these, Leinster, Munster, Ulster, and Canocht: The South-most whereof, is Munster a foil (and so is Leinster in most parts (nothing inferior, if seasonably manured, to the best grounds in England. The Island lieth almost in a Rotundo, being every way spacious; the greatest River whereof is Shannon, whose course, amounteth to eight score miles, enclosing within it many little Isles.  
And this I dare avo●, there are more Rivers, Lakes, Brooks, Strands, Quagmires, Bogs and Marshes, in this Country, then in all Christendom besides; for Travelling there in the Winter, all my daily solace, was sink down comfort; whiles Boggy-plunging deeps kissing my Horse-belly; whiles over mired Saddle, body, and all; and often or ever set a swimming in great danger both I and my Guides of our Lives: That for cloudy and fountaine-bred perils, I was never before reducted to such a sloting Labyrinth. Considering that in five months' space, I quite spoiled six horses, and myself as tired as the worst of them.  
And now I call to memory (not without derision) though I conceal the particular place and prelate, it was my Fortune in the County of Dunagale, to be jovial with a bishop at his Table, whereafter divers Discourses, my ghostly Father grew offended with me, for terming of his wife Mistress: which when understood, I both called her Madam, and Lady Bishop: Whereupon he grew more incensed; and leaving him unsatisfied: resolve me Reader, if it be the custom here or not? an di●amends shall repay oversight, a ghostly wife shall be still Madam Lady with me; if not, mine observed manner shall be Mistress.  
But now to come to my punctual Discourse of Ireland; true it is, to make a fit comparison, the Barbarian Moor, the Moorish Spaniard, the Turk, and the Irishman, are the least industrious, 
The ignorant and sluggish life of the common Irish  and most sluggish livers under the Sun, for the vulgar Irish, I protest, live more miserably in their brutish fashion, than the undaunted, or untamed Arabian, the Devillish-idolatrous Turcoman, or the Moone-worshipping Caramines, showing thereby a greater necessity they have to live, than any pleasure they have, or can have in their living.  
Their Fabrics are advanced three or four yards high, Pavilion-like encircling, erected in a singular Frame, of smoak-torne straw, green long pricked turf, and Rain-dropping watles. Their several Rooms of Palatiat divisions, as Chambers, Halls, Parlours, Kitchens, Barnes, and Stables, are all enclosed in one, and that one (perhaps) in the midst of a Mire; where, when in foul weather, scarcely can they find a dry part, whereupon to repose their cloud-baptized heads. Their shirts be woven of the wool or Linen of their own nature, and their penurious food semblable to their ruvid condition.  
And lastly, these only titular Christians, are so ignorant in their superstitious profession of Popery, that neither they, nor the greatest part of their Priests know, or understand what the mystery of the Mass is; which they daily see, and the other celebrate, nor what the name of jesus is, either in his divine or humane Nature: Ask him of his Religion, he replieth; what his father, his great Grandfather were, that will he be also: And hundreds of better than the commot sort, have demanded me, if jerusalem, and Christ's Sepulchre were in Ireland, and if the Holy Land was contiguat with Saint Patrick's Purgatory.  
They also at the sight of each New Moon, (I speak it credibly) bequeath their cattle to her protection, 
A foolish and superstitious error.  obnoxiously imploring the pale Lady of the Night, that she will leave their Bestial in as good plight as she found them: And if sick, scabbed, or sore, they solicitate her Maiden-faced Majesty to restore them to their health, in which absurdity they far surmount ●he silly Sabuncks, and Garolinean Moores of Lybia: Indeed of all things, (besides their ignorance) I only lamented their heavy bondage under three kind of Masters; the Landlord for his rent, the Minister for his tithes, and the Romish Priest for his fees: And remark when their own Irish Rent-masters have any voyage for Dublin, or peradventure superspended at home in feasting of strangers; then must these poor ones be taxed and afflicted with the supply of the devasted provision of their prodigal houses; otherwise in supporting their superfluous charges for Dublin.  
O! what a slavish servitude do these silly wretches endure? the most part of whom in all their lives, have never a third part of food, nature's clothing, nor a secure shelter for the winter cold.  
The miserable sight whereof, and their sad sounding groans, have often drawn a sorrowful remorse from my humane compassion.  
As for their Gentry, such as are brought up here at London, learn to become a great deal more civil, than those who are brought up at home after their own rude and accustomed manner: And this I observed, in my traversing the whole Kingdom I never saw one or other, neither could move any of that self Nation, to pledge or to present his Majesty's health; but as many other healths as you list; they will both fasten and receive from you, till they fall in the muddy hotch potch of their dead Grandfather's understanding: indeed for entertainment of strangers they are freely disposed: and their Gentlemen of any good sort reserve ever in their houses, Spanish Sack, and Irish Vscova, and will be as tipsy with their wives, their Priests, and their friends, as though they were naturally infeft in the eleven royal Taverns of Naples.  
And now amongst many, there are two intolerable abuses of protections in that Kingdom: 
Two intolerable abuses in Ireland.  The one of Thiefs and Wood-carnes, the other of Priests and Papists: I discourse of these corruptions now as I found them then.  
The first is prejudical to all Christian civilnesse, tranquil government, and a great discouragement for our collonized plantators there, belonging to both soils of this Island; being daily molested, and nightly incombered with these bloodsucking Rebels.  
And notwithstanding of their barbarous cruelty, ever executed at all advantages, with slaughter and murder upon the Scots and English dwellers there; yet they have and find at their own wills Symonicall protections, for lesser or longer times; ever as the confused disposers, have their law-sold hands, filled with the bloody bribes of slaughtered lives, highway, and house robbed people: And then thereafter their ill got means being spent, like unto dogs, they return back to their former vomit; so juggling with their in, and outgoings, like to the restless Ocean, that they cannot nor never did become true subjects to our King, not faithful friends to their Country: Unless by extremity of Justice, the one still hanged before the other, 
The filthy corruption of Irish Priests and Wood-Carns, thievish Rebels.  the remnant by the gallows may examplify amendment, chose, that Land shall never be quiet: for these villainous Wood-carnes are but the Hounds of their hunting Priests against what faction soever, their malicious malignity is intended: partly for entertainment, partly for particular spleens, and lastly, for a general disturbance of the Country, for the Priests greater security and stay.  
The other abuse is, their Libertinous Masses; the redress whereof, I first to the Heavens, and then to my Prince bequeath; whose Sabbath recusant money, whereof they brag (as they say) in derision of our lukewarm dispensation, tendeth to none other purpose, but to obombrate the true light of the Gospel, and to feed their absurd, and almost irrevocable ignorance.  
And nevertheless at their daily meetings (experience taught me) there was never a more repining people against our Prince and Church as they be: for in this presumption twofold cause arriseth, want of zeal and Church discipline in our parts and the officious nine penny Mass on their part: yea, all and each of them, so exacted and compounded with a higher or lower rates, as the officers in this nature please.  
The distribution whereof, I no ways parallel to the sleight concavi●ting veins of the earth, nor the sole supply of high-rising Atlas, neither to invelope the perpendiculars of long-reaching Caucasus: how soever ●ect-demolished Churches, unpassable bridges, indigent Scholars, and distressed families be supported therewith, I am as clear of it as they, although I smart by the contrary confusion.  
But leaving this, and observing my Method, I remember I saw in Ireland's North-parts, 
A bad & uncivil Husbandry in Ireland.  two remarkable sights▪ The one was their manner of Tillage, Ploughs drawn by Horsetails, wanting harness, they are only fastened with straw, or wooden Ropes to their bare Rumps, marching all side for side, three or four in a rank, and as many men hanging by the ends of that untoward Labour. It is as bad a husbandry, I say, as ever I found among the wildest Savages alive; for the Caramins, who understand not the civil form of Agriculture, yet they delve, hollow, and turn over the ground with manual and wooden instruments: But they the Irish, have thousands of both Kingdoms daily labouring beside them, yet they cannot learn, because they will not learn to use harness, as they do in England, so obstinate and perverse they are in their Barbarous consuetude, unless punishment and penalties were infl●cted; and yet most of them are content to pay twenty shillings a year, before they will change their custom.  
The other as goodly fight I saw, was women travelling the way, 
Northern Irish woman giving suck to their Babes, behind their shoulders.  or toiling at home, carry their infants about their necks, and laying the Dugs over their shoulders, would give suck to the Babes behind their backs, without taking them in their arms: Such kind of breasts me thinketh, were very fit to be made money-bags for East or West- Indian Merchants, being more than half a yard long, and as well wrought as any Tanner, in the like charge, could ever mollify such Leather.  
Ireland is an excellent Country to live in for cheapness and all variety of man's sustenance: therefore I would entreat the Reader to take this description of it, (though already spoken of before, but not so fully.)  
This Country of Ireland lieth far in the West Ocean, and is accounted by the most expert in that kind, 
The length of Ireland.  to be in length very near three hundred Miles, from North to South: in breadth, from East to West, one hundred and twenty Miles: It much resembleth the form of an Egg; being as it were blunt at each end, and smooth or plain on the sides; not extending itself forth to sea in Nooks and Arms of Land, as England doth.  
The Country itself lieth low, and is very waterish, And containeth in it divers little Islands, 
The manner of the Country.  and is much troubled with Bogs and Marshes. Some of their highest Hills, I have seen them had standing pools of water on their tops; the Country of itself is very fruitful in all sorts of cattle, and very plentiful of all manner of grain: The air is very wholesome, yet not altogether so clear and subtle as England. The inhabitants are much troubled with sickness, as defluxion of Rheums, and bloody Flixes; and for prevention and help thereof they drink Aquavitae, which they conceive doth dry up the Rheum, and keep them healthful: It hath been very full of Wood, and but little Champagne ground: It is mightily inhabited by our English, and much civilised of late, by the great care of those which are and have been their Governors.  
Sea-coal and Turf is most of their fuel; it hath great store of horses, but of no great stature, as they be in England: They have plenty of Fish and all manner of Fowl: Great store of Bees, which yields them no small profit: Sheep are the fewest and scarcest of all other cattle, and those are but small, and yield very course Wool, whereof the women spin and make their Rugs and Mantles, which they wear about them. No Venomous or Creeping Beast is bred, brought forth, or nourished there, nor can live there if it were sent in; and therefore the Spider of Ireland is well known not to be venomous or hurtful.  
The most part of the better sort of people are inclined to virtue, 
The nature of the people.  and Religion; wondrous kind, amorous, and loving, where they take their first love; but very revengeful and spleenful otherwise. There are many Sorcerers and Witches amongst this Nation. The gentlemen are excellent horsemen; delighted with exercise of warlike Arms, and are both stout and courageous; and very free and bountiful in their Alms, and hospitality. At the death of any friend or kindred, they follow the dead corpses to the Grave with howl and bitter cry; pitiful in outward show. They are very apt to believe and give credit to Miracles and old Prophecies, Relations and foolish sayings. They are very desirous of praise and honour; but very fearful of dishonour. They love an excellent Poet, who can or will extol Saint Patrick and their own Nation, and will bountiful reward them.  
As for any other customs they have, to avoid prolixity I spare; only, before my pen flee over Seas, I would gladly shake hands with some of our Churchmen there, for better are the wounds of a friend, than the sweet smiles of a flatterer, for love and truth cannot dissemble.  
Many dissembling impudents intrude themselves in this high calling of God, who are not truly, neither worthily thereunto called, the ground here arising either from a carnal or careless presumption, otherwise from needy greed, and lack of bodily maintenance.  
Such is now the corruption of time, that I know here even Mechanic men admitted in the place of Pastors: 
An Ecclesiastic corruption in unlawful Preachers.  yea, and rude bred Soldiers, whose education was at the Musket mouth, are become there, both Lybian grave, and unlearned Churchmen: Nay; besides them professed; indeed professed Scholars: whose warbling mouths ingorged with spoonefus of bruised Latin, seldom or never expressed, unless the force of quaffing, spew it out forth from their empty Skulls: Such I say, interclude their Doctrine, between the Thatch and the Church-wall tops; and yet their smallest stipends shall amount to one, two, three, or four hundred pounds a year.  
Whereupon you may demand me, how spend they, or how deserve they this? I answer, their deserts are nought, and the fruit thereof as naughtily spent: for Sermons and Prayers they never have any, neither never preached any, nor can preach.  
And although some could, as perhaps they seemeing would, they shall have no Auditor (as they say) but bare Walls, the plants of their Parishes, being the roots of mere Irish. As concerning their carriage, in spending such sacrilegious Fees, the course is thus.  
The Alehouse is their Church, the Irish Priests their Consorts, their Auditors be Fill, and Fetch more, their Text Spanish Sack, their Prayers carrousing, their singing of Psalms the whiffing of Tobacco, their last blessing Aqua vitae, and all their Doctrine sound drunkenness.  
And whensoever these parties meet, 
A flattering covenant 'twixt Ministers and Mass Priests.  their pa●ting is Dane-like from a Dutch Pot, and the Minister still Purse-bearer, defrayeth all charges for the Priest: Arguments of Religion, like Podolian Polonians they succumb; their conference only pleading mutual forbearance; the Minister afraid of the Priests Wood-Carnes, and the Priests as fearful of the Ministers apprehending, or denoting them; contracting thereby a Gibeonized covenant, yea, and for more submissions sake, he will give way to the Priest to mumble Mass in his Church, where he in all his life made never Prayer nor Sermon.  
Lo, there are some of the abuses of our late weak, and straggling ecclesiastics there, and the soule-sunk sorrow of godless Epicures and Hypocrites.  
To all which, and much more have I been an ocular Testator, and sometimes a constrained consociate to their companionry, yet not so much enforced as desirous to know the behaviour and conversation of such mercenary jebusites.  
Great God amend it, for it is great pity to behold it, and if it continue so still, as when I saw them last; O far better it were! that these ill bestowed Tithes, and Church-wall Rents were distributed to the poor, and needy, than to suffocate the swine-fed bellies of such idle and profane Parasites.  
And here another general abuse, I observed that whensoever any Irish dye, the friends of the defunct (besides other fees) paying twenty shillings to the English Curate, shall get the corpses of the deceased to be buried within the Church, yea often, even under the Pulpit foot: And for lucre inter in God's Sanctuary when dead, who when alive would never approach, one enter the gates of Zion; to worship the Lord, nor conform themselves to true Religion.  
Truly such and the like abuses, and evil examples of lewd lives, having been the greatest hindrance of that lands conversion; for such like wolves have been from time to time, but stumbling blocks before them; regarding more their own sensual and licentious ends, than the glory of God, in converting of one foul unto his Church.  
Now as concerning the conscionable carriage of the Hibernian Clergy, 
Ministerial officer strangely abused.  ask me, and there my reply: As many of them (for the most part) as are Protestant Ministers, have their Wives, Children, and Servants, invested Papists; and many of these Churchmen at the hour of their death (like Dogs) return back to their former vomit: Witness the late Vicar of Calin, (belonging to the late and last, Richard Earl of Desmond, who being on deathbed, and having two hundred pounds a year; finding himself to forsake both life and stipend, send strait for a Romish Priest, and received the Papal Sacrament: Confessing freely in my audience, that he had been a Roman Catholic all his life, dissembling only with his Religion, for the better maintaining of his wife and children. And being brought to his burial place, he was interted in the Church, with the which he had played the Ruffian all his life; being openly carried at midday with Jesuits, Priests, and Friars of his own Nation, and after a contemptible manner, in derision of our profession, and Laws of the Kingdom.  
Infinite more examples of this kind could I recite, and the like resemblances of some being alive; ●ut I respectively suspend (wishing a Reformation of such Deformation) and so concludeth this Cleargicall corruption there. Yet I would not have the Reader to think, that I condemn all our Clergy there, no, God forbid, for I know there are many sound and Religious Preachers of both Kingdoms among them, who make conscience of their calling, and live as Lanterns, to uncapable Ignorants, and to those straggling Stoics I complain of, condemnatory Judges; for it is a grievous thing to see incapable men, to juggle with the high mysteries of man's salvation.  
And now after the fastidious ending of a tempestuous Rain sacking toil, 
My departure from Ireland to France.  I embarked at Yoghall in Munster, February 27, 1620, in a little French Pinke bound for Saint Mallo in Bretagne. Where, when transported, I set face to Paris, where I found the Works of two scelerate and perverse Authors: the one of which had disdainfully wrote against the life and Reign of Queen Elizabeth of sempiternal Renown: the other ignominiously, upon the death of our late Queen Anne of ever blessed memory. The circumstances whereof, I will not avouch, since Malaga detaineth the notes of their abjured names, and perfidiate pains.  
A just reward (may I say) refounded, upon these fond conceits, you have of the fantastic French: Especially these superstitious stragglers here; who, when, they have sucked the Milk of their self-ends, and your lavish Liberalities without desert; return a kick with their heels (like to the Colt of an Ass) in your teeth again. And there your meritorious thanks, and their shameful slanders, in acquittance of your vain Expense.  
Tell me, 
The fantastic foolery of the French.  if you be tied like Apes to imitate their ever-changing humours? And can you draw from them (in any Art or carriage) a greater draught, than they draw from the Italian, for first they be Imitators; next Mutators; thirdly, Temptators; and lastly, your Plantators, in all the varieties of vanity. Have you a desire to learn modestly to Dance, skilfully to Fence, dexteriously to manage Great Horses, view Foreign Sights, learn Languages, Humane policies, and the like conducements: 
Then rather reach, the Fountain, whence they flow,  
Whence Science, Arts, and Practise lively grow;  
Than suck the streams, of separate distastes,  
He well derives, his labour never wastes;  
Fond Fools affect, what foolery Fools effect,  
The sequel sight, than sense, doth more infect.   
Besides these two infamous Authors, what hath Edee; the Idea of a Knave, (and Gentleman of the French privy-chamber) done; who like a Wood-weather-cock, and giddy headed Fool, (full of deficient Vapours) hath shamefully stained with his shameless pen, the light of this Kingdom, which now I omit to avouch till a fitter time.  
Thus, they fond Write, thus they prattle, thus they sing, thus they dance, thus they brangle, thus they dally in capritziate humours, and thus they vary, in the fleering conceit of sa, sa, sa, sa, sa, far beyond the inconstancy of all female inconstancies.  
But to conclude this Epitome of France, 
Certain caveats for strangers that go to France.  three things I wish Way-faring man to prevent there: First, the eating of Victuals, and drinking of Wine without price making; lest (when he hath done) for the stridour of his teeth his charges be redoubled. Next to choose his Lodging (if it fall out in any way-standing Tavern) far from palludiat Ditches, lest the vehemency of chirking Frogs, vex the wished for Repose of his fatigated body, and cast him in a vigilant perplexity.  
And lastly, unless early he would arise, I never wish him to lie near the fore-streetes of a Town, because of the disturbant clamours of the Peasant samboys or nail wooden shoes: whose noise like an aequivox resembleth the clashing armour of Armies; or the clangour of the Vlyssen-tumbling Horse to fatal Troy.  
But now to my purpose, leaving Paris behind me, I arrived at Pau in Bearne. This Province is a principality of itself, anciently annexed to the Kingdom of Navarre: lying between the higher Gascony of Guyan, and the Pyrhenei Mountains of Baske, bordering with the North parts of Navarre: Both of which, belongeth to the French King, except a little of Baske toward the Columbian Alps, and that the Spaniard commandeth.  
Pau is the Justice seat of Bearne, having a goodly Castle situate on an artificial Rock, and in this place was that Marshal Henry du Burbone la Quatriesme borne, than King of Navarre.  
Here be the finest Gardens in Christendom, the Gardens of Pretolino (5 miles from Florence) only excepted. Yet for fair Arbours, spacious over-siling walks, and incorporate Trees interchanging growths, it surpasseth Pretolino: but the other for the variety of fructiferous Trees, rare and admirable ponds, artificial fountains; Diana, and her Alabaster Nymphly-portrayed train, the counter-banding force of Aguadotti, and the exquisite banqueting room, contrived among sounding unseen waters, in form of Gargantus body, it much excelleth Pau.  
Hence I descended the River of Orthes to Baion and crossing the River Behobia, 
Biscay in Spain is a fertile Country.  which divideth France and Spain, I entered in Biscai june 29 1620. This is a Mountainous and invincible Country, (of which Victonia is the chief City) being a barren and almost unprofitable Soil, the special commodities whereof, are Sheep, Wool as soft as silk; Goats and excellent good Iron: corns they have none or little at all; neither wine but what is brought from Navarre in Pelagoes or swineskins, carried on Mulets backs.  
Leaving Biscai, I entered Navarre and came to Pampelona its Metropolitan City: here I found the poorest Viceroy (nomen sinere) with the least means to maintain him that ever the World afforded such a stile. Navarre is but a little Kingdom, amounting in length (with the South Pendicles of the high Perhenese) to twenty three leagues: that is between Porto di St. joanne in Baske, and Grono upon the River Hebro, dividing the old Castilia and Navarre. In breadth it extendeth to seventeen Leagues, that is between Varen in Biscai, and Terrafran● in Arragon: The soil is indifferent fertile of Corns and Wines. From thence I set Eastward to Syragusa, the capital Seat of Arragon.  
Arragon, hath Navarre to the West; South, Valents Kingdom; East, and Southeast, Catalogna; and on the North the Alps Pyrhenese. It is an ancient and famous Kingdom, under whose Jurisdiction were both the perty Kingdom of Valentia and Barselona: And not long ago, traduced to the Castilian King by marriage. For although Castilia, hath the language, they have the lineal dissent of the Romans; the inhabitants whereof, being instinctively endued with all humane affabilities. From thence returning from the old Castilia, or Kingdom of Burgos, in the way to St. jago of Compostella in Galitia: It was my fortune, as St. Domingo to enter the Town Church accompanied with two French Puppies, mindful to show me a miraculous matter.  
Where when come, I espied over my head, opposite to the great altar, 
A lying miracle.  two milk white Hens, enraveled in an iron Cage on the inner side of the Porches Promontore. And demanding why they were kept? Or what they signified? Certain Spaniards replied; come along with us, and you shall see the Story, and being brought to the (Choro) it was drawn thereon as followeth. The father and the son, two Burboneons of France, going in Pilgrimage to St. james, it was their lot to lodge here in an Inn: Where supper ended, and reckoning paid, the Host perceiving their denariat charge; he entered their Chamber when they were a sleep, and in bed conveying his own purse in the young man's Budget.  
On the morrow early, the two innocent Pilgrims Footing the hard bruising way, were quickly over hied by the Justice, where the Host making search for his purse, found it in the Son's bag. Whereupon instantly and in the same place he was hanged, and left hanging there, seizing on their money by a sentential forfeiture.  
The sorrowful Father (notwithstanding) continued his pilgrimage to Compostella, where, when come, and devotion made, our Lady of mount Serata, appeared to him saying: Thy Prayers are heard, and thy groans have pierced my heart, arise and return to Saint Domingo for thy Son liveth. And he accordingly returned, found it so, and the Sonne-hanged Monster, after 30 day's absence, spoke thus from the Gallows, Father, go to our Host, and show him I live, then speedily return. By which direction the old man entered the Town, and finding the Host at Table, in breaking up of two roasted Pullet's, told him and said: My son liveth, come and see. To which the smiling Host replied, he is as surely alive on the Gallows, 
A damnable delusion of a devilish miracle.  as these two pullets be alive in the dish. At which protestation, the two fire-scorched fowls leapt out suddenly alive, with heads, wings, feathers, and feet, and cakling, took flight thrice about the Table. The which amazing sight, made the astonished Host to confess his guiltiness, and the other relieved from the rope, he was hung up in his place, allotting his house for an Hospitality to Pilgrims for ever.  
There are still two Hens reserved here, in memory of this miracle, and are changed, as they grow fat for the Priests chaps, being freely given to the place. And I dare swearing say, these Priests eat fatter Hens, than Don Philippo himself, they being fed by the people's devotion, at their entrance to the morning and evening sacrifices, and are termed holy Hens. Infinite paper could I blot with relating the like absurdities, and miraculous lies of the Roman Church, but leaving them till a fitter occasion I proceed. From thence traversing, a great part of the higher Asturia, I entered in Galitia, and found the Country so barren, the people so poor, and victuals so scarce, that this impoitunate enforcement, withdrew me from S. jacques, to Portugal: Where I found little better, or lesser relief, their soils being absolute sterile, desartuous, and mountainous.  
Portugal was formerly called Lusitania, 
The kingdom of Portugal.  and Hispania ulteriora: It is in length 320 miles, large 68, and sometimes under: In the Moorish domination it was divided in two Kingdoms, the one reserveth the name of all; the other was called Agarbas: A word Arabic, that signifieth the part Occidental: And were divided with the River Guadion, and the two Castles Odebera, and Alcotino: Agarbas was toward the South, and Portugal Northward.  
Portugal is now confined on the South, and Southeast with Andolusia: West and South-west, the main Ocean. Galitia to the North: And Eastward the old and new Castilia. After twenty days fastidious climbing in this Kingdom, I returned to Salamancha in Castilia, Vecchia; the Sacerdotal University of Spain, whence springeth these Flocks of Students, that over-swarme the whole Land with Rogueries, Robberies, and Begging. From thence traversing the Alps of Siera de Caderama, (which divide the two Castiliaes') I descended the South side of the Mountains, and arrived at the Escurial; where then late King Philip the third, had his Residence.  
This Palace standeth alone, 
The palace of Escurial.  and founded upon the skirt of a perpendicular ●ill of Caderama, squared out from a devalling steepness, having a large prospect Southwardly towards the Evenise Mountains beyond Toledo. This palatiate Cloister is quadrangled four stories high, the uppermost whereof, is window-set in the blue tecture: The stone work below, having three Ranks of larger windows, encircling the whole quadrangles, and French like high rigged. At every spacious squadrate corner, there is an high Turret erected above the coverture, whose tops bear each of them a golden Globe. In the middle Court standeth a round incorporate Church, arising outward in a rotundo, with a wide Leaden top, and on each side thereof a squadrat Steeple, higher than the round, making a goodly show. It hath neither outward Walls nor Gates, but the two self Doors of the eleven incloysterd petty Courts, save only some Office houses without, and they stand alone by the Hill broken side. 
Escurial is rather a Monastery then Palace.  I may rather term it a Monastery then a Kingly Palace, having a hundred and fifty Monks, Carthusians, of Saint Hieronimoes' Order living within it; the King only remaining in a private corner, at his coming thither. Nay, at that instant, he was so private, that before I saw his face, I could not believe, that the Patron of so great a Monarchy, could be so quiet; yea, as quiet as a Country Baron is with us, and had lived so nine weeks before.  
The house itself, I confess, excelleth in beauty, that Constantinopolitan Seralia of the great Turk, though not in divisions, and ground distances, yet for a main incorporate house, and was builded by King Philip the second, standing seven leagues from Madrile, to which I arrived.  
Here is the residence of the Court though formerly at Valladoly: Madrid or Madrile, is the Centre or middle part of Spain, situate in the Kingdom of Toledo, the new Castilia. And distant from Lisbon in Portugal, Westward one hundred leagues: From Sevilia in Andoluzia ninety leagues: From Grenada Southward, sixty eight leagues: Barselona in Catalogna East, South-eastward one hundred leagues: From Valentia fifty leagues: From Siragusa in Arragon Eastward fifty three leagues: From Saint Sebastian in Biscai Northwestward seventy leagues: And from Pampelona in Navarre, North eastward, forty nine leagues.  
Spain generally, is a mass of Mountains, a barren ill manured soil: neither well inhabited nor populous: Yea, so desartuous that in the very heart of Spain, I have gone eighteen leagues (two days journey) unseeing house or village, except two Ventas or Taverns, and commonly eight leagues without a●y house: Villages be so far distant, the Rocky Seraes' or Alps so innumerable.  
It is miserable travelling, 
It is miserable travelling in Spain.  less profitable, in these ten Provinces, or petty Kingdoms, hard lodging and poor, great scarcity of beds and dear: And no ready dressed diet, unless you buy it raw, and cause it to be dressed, or dress it yourself, buying first in one place your fire, your meat from the Butcher, your bread from the Baker, your Wine from the Tavern, your Fruits, Oil, and Herbs from the Botega, carrying all to the last place, your bed-lodging: Thus must the weary Stranger toil, or else fast: And in infinite places for Gold nor money can have no victuals; but restrained to a relenting jejunation.  
The highminded Spaniard, and their high-topped Mountains have an infused contention together: The one through arrogant ambition, would invade the whole Earth to enlarge his Dominions: The other by a steep swollen height, seem to threaten the Heavens, to pull down jupiter from his Throne. And as I take it, the Spaniard being of a low stature, borroweth his highminded breast from the high-topped Mountains, for the one in quality, and the other in quantity, be extraordinarily infounded.  
Certain it is, as the Spaniard in all things standeth mainly upon his Reputation (but never to avouch it with single Combat) so he vaunteth not a little of his antiquity, deriving his pedigree from Tubal, the Nephew of Noe. Butler (especially as they draw it) how often hath the Line of Tubal, been bastarded, degenerated, and quite expelled by invasions of Phoenicians, oppressions of the Greeks, incursions of the Carthaginians, the Conquest and planting of Provinces, and Colonies of the Romans, the general deluge of the Goths, Huns, and Vandals: and lastly, by the long and intolerable Tyranny of the Moors, whose slavish yoke and bondage in eight hundred years, 
The long captivity of the Spaniards under the M●res.  he could scarely shake off; his own Histories bear sufficient testimony and Record. Then it is manifest, that this mixture of Nations, must of necessity make a compounded Nature, such as having affinity with many, have no perfection in any one.  
Their Manners are conformable to their descent, and their conditional Virtues, semblable to their last and longest Conquerors, of whom they retain the truest stamp.  
The most penurious Peasants in the world be here, whose Quotidian moans, might draw tears from stones. There Villages stand as waste like as the Sabunck, Garamont, or Arabian Pavilions, wanting Gardens, Hedges, Closes, Barns, or Backesides: This sluggish and idle husbandry, being a natural instinct of their neighbour or paternal Moors.  
As for industrious Arts, inventions, and Virtues, they are as dull thereof, as their late predecessors: and truly I confess, for the Spanish Nun, she is more holy than the Italian; the former are only reserved to the Friars, and Priests: the latter being more noble, have most affinity with Gentlemen. The Spaniard is of a spare diet and temperate, if at his own cost he spend; but if given Gratis, he hath the longest Tusks that ever struck at Table.  
After a doubtful and dangerous departure from Madrid, (as Sir Walter Aston his Majesty's Ambassador can testify with his followers, as some of his people have already here done the same,) being the drift of my own Countrymen, I came to Toledo, twelve Leagues distant from thence: This City is situate on a ragged Rock upon the River Tagus, being an Archbishop's seat, the Primate and Metropolitan See of all Spain: Yet a miserably impoverished and deformed place.  
And although the Spaniard, 
Naked condition conferred upon poor Toledo.  of all Towns in Spain, braggeth most of Toledo, it is neither (doubtless I know) for beauty, bounds, nor Wealth, if not for the Intrado belongeth to it, amounting yearly (as they affirm) to 200000 ducats; for there is no other Episcopal Seat in all Castilia; or Kingdom of Toledo. Giving back to Toledo, I crossed the crossing Siera de Morada, (which divideth the Kingdom of Grenada, from the Mansha of the new Castilia) and arrived at Grenada, the Capital of Andolusia.  
H●re had the Moors their last Residence in Spain, and was magnanimously recovered, Anno 1499 years, by Ferdinand the Castilian King, and his Wife Isabel. It standeth at the foot of Siera de Nevada, (the Snowy Alps,) who reserve continually Snow on their tops, and partly enclosed between two Snow-melting Rivers. In this City is the principal Seat, & College of justice of all South Spain: As Valladoli is for the North of Spain, the high Court of Madrid having Prerogative over both.  
It hath a spacious and strong Castle, which was builded by the Moors, a●d indeed a Kingly Mansion: Where I saw the Halls and Bedchambers of the Moorish Kings, most tightly over-sieled, and indented with Mosaical work; excelling far any modern industry whatsoever.  
The Emperor Charles the fifth, and King of Spain, after his return from that misfortunate Voyage of Algiers, left a monument here likely to have been accomplished, that is, the foundation of an admirable work advanced two stories high, without it is quadrangled, and within round; having two degrees of encircling promontories supported by Marble pillars, and Alabaster arches.  
Being dismissed here, it was my fortune at Antecara to encounter with a Merchant, (M. Woodson a Londoner,) newly come from Venice, and bound to Malaga. With whom desirously accompanied, the day following being Sunday, with sore travelling we came within night to Malaga, and there after parting to our several lodgings, the next morning I addressed myself to the shore side; where I had notice given me, of a French ship belonging to Tolon in Province, that was lying in the Mould, and shortly bound for Alexandria: And finding that Transportation most convenient for my design (my safest course lying through Egypt and the Read Sea, for Prester jehans' Dominions and Court) I presently made bargain with the Ships master, for my passage and Victuals.  
And now attending my departure thence, upon the fifth day after my coming hither Anno 1620 October 17 the English Fleet that went against the Pirates of Algiers, gave Anchor at midnight in ●he road. Whose sudden coming, yielded no small fear to the affrighted Town mistaking them for Turks; for the two Castle-hells Ringing backward, the thundering Drums resounding and the Town all the latter night in arms, bred such disturbant despair to their Families, and distraction to themselves, that their wives and children fled to the higher Castle, without the Town; and I a stayed Consort with the Defendants till day light. But morning come, and the English Colours discovered, Don jaspar Ruiz de Peredas the Governor, went aboard of the English General Sir Robert Maunsell; where after congratulating compliments, he being returned a shore, dismissed the Burghers and their Arms.  
In that afternoon, and the day following being Saturday, 
Malaga affrighted with the English ●leet.  there came hundreds ashore of my special friends, and old Familiars, Londoners, and Courtiers, with whom desirously met, we were jovial together, till Sunday morning: where then I went aboard of the Lion, his Majesty's ship, and saluted the General, who kindly entertained me to the next day that the Fleet was divided in three Squaders, and he under sail, and then unhappily came I ashore in a Fisherboat, to my dear bought destruction, being sore against the General's will, but that I should have gone with him to Algiers: Save only that my Linen, Letters, and Packet was lying in my Hostery, and so could not go: but what shall I say?  Quod fortuna dedit, nemo tollere potest. 
And so now followeth the sorrowful Relations of my Tragical sufferings, which as briefly as I may, I shall succinctly avouch, although the larger, the better to be understood.  
Sad soul mix truth, with grave and prompt discourse  
Let passions flee, this Tragic stile must rest  
On Faith and Patience, Columns of recourse,  
Which underproped my sufferings here expressed:  
Lord weigh my words, with wisdom give me grace  
In all this Work, to give thy glory place.  
I was no sooner entered the Town, and drawing up a private way to my lodging, to shun company and acquaintance, for that night was I to have embarked for Alexandria, but I was suddenly surprised in that narrow depopulated street with 9 Alguozilos, or Sergeants, who enclosing me on both sides, laid violent hands on me, wrapping me up in a black frizado cloak, and gripping my throat to stop my crying, they carried me on their arms to the governor's house, and enclosed me in a low Parlour.  
To which when the Governor came, 
A sad request to a merciless Governor.  for I was acquainted with him before, I sadly spoke, saying My most noble Governor, and worthy Lord, I humbly beseech your goodness to show me for what offence or cause, I am thus violently brought before you, knowing that in me, and from my carriage there is no injury committed. Whereat, without answer and shaking his head, he enclosed me in a little Cabinet within the parlour till he went to Mass, commanding them with all possible diligence to fetch hither, the Captain of the Town, Don Francisco de Cordava, the Alcademajor, and the States Scrivan, enjoining them to conceal my apprehending till further trial under the pain of death.  
At last he from the Mass, and they come hither, the Sergeants were dismissed, the doors made fast, and I was brought forth before these four Cavallieroes, all placed in chairs, and the Scrivan-table set, with pen and paper to write my Confession. Whereafter long silence, the governor asked me of my Nation, and how long, and how often I had been out of my Country, and whether I was bound? and how long I had been in Spain.  
To whom I punctually returned my dividuat answers: Whereupon being enclosed in my former Cabinet, within a while Don Francisco entered my Room, demanding me if I had been in Sivilia, or was come from it; and clapping my cheeks with a judas smile, made this entreaty. My dear brother, and gallant companion, confess freely that you have been in Sivilia, for your countenance bewrayeth, there are some hidden purposes in the closet of your breast, and Para fuyr mas malo, you had best in time relate to me the truth.  
Whereat I saying no, as truth acquired, he went back, resolving them of my stiff denial, and they therewith incensed, I was invited to their former presence, and main accusations ensuing. First, the Governor made me swear and hold up my hand, that I should tell the particular truth of everything he was to demand of me; which indeed I did according to my knowledge.  
Then he inquired if the English General, was a Duke, or great Signior, and what could be the reason, that he refused to come ashore there; for that was the first impression of their false conceived jealousy. Next; he asked me, if I knew his name, and the other Captains and what their names were? and what their intention was? or if I had known of their coming abroad, or preparation for it, before my departure from England.  
The Scrivan writing down meanwhile every word he spoke and what I answered: well; to all the former particulars giving condign satisfaction, and to the last, denying that I knew of the forth coming of the Fleet, they all four gave a shout in the contrary. Whereupon the Governor swearing, cursed and said, Thou liest like a Villain, thou art a Spy and a Traitor, and camest directly from England of purpose to Spain; and hath been lying nine months in Sivilia, getting sure intelligence, when the Spanish Navy was looked for from the Indies; and that thou expressly here, came to meet with the English Armado, (knowing of their drift) to give them credible knowledge thereof: And that by thy information, they might the more readily compass their ends, and thus thy treachery and subtlety, hath been employed.  
Whereat I being astonished, and seriously answering for the intention of the English Fleet, and my own innocence concerning them: He threatening said, I was seen familiar a Board and a shore, with the whole Captains, and known to be of their special acquaintance: besides three hundred other Gentlemen, and Mariners with whom, and they with thee, were so inward, that it far exceeded the kindness of accidental meeting.  
All this we saw, and hourly remarked (said he) and thou art newly come from the General when thou wast taken, where consulting with their Counsel of War this morning, (concerning what they assigned thee to accomplish) thou hast delivered thy opinion, and the expectation of Sivilia, touching the return of his Majesty's Armado di Plato; and therefore thou art a Spiono, a Traitor, and a scelerate Velacco: for we are not ignorant (said he) of the burning of Saint Thome in the West Indies; for there and then, we had a certain evidence of the English infidelity, and treacherous exploits in time of Peace: Wherefore these Lutherans and sons of the Devil, ought not from us, good Catholics, to receive no credit.  
Whereupon I besought him, to send for some sufficient English Factors, there sojourning, who would testify the contrary in my behalf, their Country and their Fleet, but that he would not, for my being discovered. At last seeing his damnable opinion, and to clear myself of such false imputations: I requested him to send a Sergeant to my Possado or lodging for my Cloak-bag, where he should see a more evident Testimony of my carriage and honest purpose, and thereupon, the approbation of my Prince.  
This demand liked him well, thinking thereby to find out all the secrets and practice of my Negotiation with the English Fleet: Whereupon forthwith, and with close Circumspection he had it brought unto him, my hostage House not knowing where I was. 
His Majesty's Letters and Seals misregarded.  The Cloak-bag I opened myself, and showing him his Majesty's Letters in parchment, and under his Hand and Seal, dated at Theobals 1619. july 17, and compiled and wrote by Mr. Thomas Read, than secretary for the Latin Tongue, done in my behalf, and my intended Resolution for Aethiopia, the King's safe Conduct he misregarded, giving it neither respect nor trust.  
After which, I showed him divers patents, Seals, and the great seal of jerusalem, Passports, and my Book of arms, called Liber amicorum, wherein I had the hand writs, and arms of sundry Kings, Dukes, Princes, Vice Royes, Marquesses, Earls, Lords, and Governors, etc. done in Prose and Verse, in Greek, Latin, or their maternal tongues, being as propitious pledges of their favour, in commendation of me, and of my Travails.  
But all these would not satisfy him, nay rather confirming a greater jealousy of his former suspicion: whereupon misconstruing all, they seized absolutely upon my Cloak-bag, viewing and detaining all I had at their pleasure; including me the third time. This done, and within night, being Represented again, the Governor commanding me to subscribe my Confession, which I voluntarily obeyed; though they still urged me further and further to confess. Mean while, these four Complices consulting about my Imprisonment, the Aleade or chief Justice, would have had me along with him to the Town Jail, but the Corregidor refused, saying Para non star visto con sus Pesanos': that he may not be seen by his Countrymen, it behoveth me to have a care of his concealment: and I warrant you (said he) I ●hall lodge him well enough.  
Upon the knowledge of this, 
An injust robbery by unjust Judges.  that I was secretly to be incarcerate in the governor's Palace, entered the Mr. Sergeant, and begged my money, and Licence to search for it: and liberty granted, he found in my pockets eleve● Philippoes' or ducatons; and then unclothing me before their eyes, even to my shirt, and searching my breeches, he found in my Doublet neck, fast shut between two Canvesses, one hundred thirty seven double pieces of gold. Whereat the Corregidor arose and cowting my gold, being five hundred forty eight Ducats, he said to the Sergeant, cloth him again, and enclosed him there in the Cabinet till after supper, meanwhile the Sergeant got the eleven duccatons of Silver; and my gold, which was to carry me for Aethiopia, the Governor seized upon, giving afterwards two hundred Crowns of it to supply the new laid foundation of a Capuschine monastery there, reserving the rest (being 348 ducats for his own avaricious ends.  
Whereupon beholding my inevitable misery, 
A miserable and helpless Lamentation.  and such monster-made irons, my sighing soul replied thus: Alas Sergeant, and you two Slaves, remark in me the just judgements of god; and lo how the Heavens have reducted me to this meritorious reward, and truly deserved; for I have dear and truly bought it; that I, whose legs and feet the whole universe could scarcely contain, now these bolts and irons keep then fast in a body length, of a stonepaved Floor. O foolish pride, O suppressing ambition! and vaporous curiosity! woe worth the fury of your aspiring vanities; you have taken me over the face of the earth, and now left me in a Dungeon hole: My soul, O my soul is leaguer unto this proverb Man proposeth, and God disposeth: O happ●had I been, thrice happy in a Shepehards' life.  
Thus and more lamenting the destiny of nature, they left me with solacious words, and strait returned again with victuals, being a pound of boiled Mutton, a wheat bread, and a small pint of Wine: which was the first, the best, and the last of this kind, that ever I got in that woeful Mansion. The Sergeant leaving me (never seeing him more, till a more unwelcome sight) he directed the Slaves, that after I had contented my discontented appetite, they should lock the door, and carry the keys to Areta, a Spaniard, and keeper of the silver plate.  
A little while after he was gone the other drudge left me also, who was newly turned Christian: where being alone with Hazier the natural Turk, who was to attend me, feed me, and keep me, lying nightly a constrained Sentinel, without the door of my imprisonment; he demanded me for what Cause I was committed, and what malefact I was guilty of? to whom I answered, only for a naked suspicion, mistaking the honourable intention of the English Armado, I am as a spy apprehended, and falsely accused.  
Where upon the silly Slave falling down on his knees, held up his hands, crying, Hermano, Hermano, es m●y grand menester, 
The mourning of Hazior a Turkish slave.  para tomar pacenza, etc. Brother, Brother, it is much needful for you to take all in patience, for it is impossible now you can escape some fearful trial, and there upon a horrible punishment even unto death; and alas to relieve you, if I durst, (as I dare not under death) to discover you to your Countrymen, I would do it upon my knees; and leaving me with a weeping goodnight, he made fast the doors, and transported the keys, as he was directed.  
The day following the Governor entered my Prison alone, entreating me to confess I was a spy, and he would be my friend, and procure my pardon, neither should I lack (intirim) any needful thing: But I still attesting my innocency, he wrathfully swore I should see his face no more, till grievious torments should make me do it, and leaving mèe in a rage, he observed too well his condition.  
But withal in my audience, he commanded Areta, that none should come near me, except the slave, nor no food should be given me, but three ounces of moosted brown bread, every second day, and a Fuleto or English Pint of water, neither any bed, pillow, or coverlet to be allowed me: And close up, said he, this window in his room, with lime and stone, stop the holes of the door with double Mats, hanging another locking to it, and to withdraw all visible and sensible comfort from him, let no tongue, nor feet be heard near him, till I have my designs accomplished: And thou Hazior I charge thee, at thy incommings to have no conference with him, nor at thy out goings abroad to discover him to the English Factors, as thou wilt answer upon thy life, and the highest torments can be devised.  
These directions delivered, and alas, too accessary to me in the performance; my room was made a darke-drawn Dungeon, my belly the anatomy of merciless hunger, my comfortless hearing, the receptacle of sounding Bells, my eyes wanting light, a loathsome languishing in despair, and my ground lying body, the woeful mirror of misfortunes, every hour wishing another's coming, every day the night, and every night the morning.  
And now being every second or third day attended with the twinkling of an eye, 
A speedy ● expedition for a merciless mischief.  and my sustenance agreeable to my attendance, my body grew exceeding debile and infirm, insomuch that the Governor (after his answers received from Madrile made haste to put in execution, his bloody and merciless purpose before Christmas Holy days, lest the expiring of the twelfth day, I should be utterly famished, and unable to undergo my trial, without present perishing, yet unknown to me, save only in this knowledge, that I was confined to die a fearful and unacquainted death: for it is a current custom with the Spaniard, that if a stranger be apprehended upon any suspicion, he is never brought to open trial, and common Jail, but clapped up in a Dungeon, and there tortured, empoisoned, or starved to death. Such meritorious deeds, accompany these only titular Christians: for the Spaniard accounteth it more to be called a Christian, then either to believe what he professeth, or to conform himself to the life of Christianity: yea, I sparingly avouch it, he is the worst and badst creature of the christian name; having no more Religion (and less respective to devation) than an external presumptuous show; which perfiteth this ancient Proverb, The Spaniard; est bonus Catholicus, sed malus Christianus.  
In end, by God's permission, the scourge of my fiery trial opproaching; upon the forty seventh day after my first imprisonment, and five days before Christmas; about two of clock in the morning, I heard the noise of a Coach in the fore street, marveling much what it might mean  
Within a pretty while I heard the locks of my Prison-doore in opening; 
My transportation from prison to the fields to be racked.  whereupon bequeathing my soul to God, I humbly implored his gracious mercy and pardon for my sins: for neither in the former night, nor this could I get any sleep, such was the force of gnawing hunger, and the portending heaviness of my presaging soul.  
Meanwhile the former nine Sergeants, accompanied with the Scrivan, entered the room without word speaking, and carrying me thence, with irons and all, on their arms through the house to the street, they laid me on my back in the Coach: where two of them sat up beside me, (the rest using great silence) went softly along by the coach side.  
Then Baptista the Coachman, an Indian Negro droving out at the Sea gate, the way of the shore side, I was brought Westward almost a league from the Town, to a vine-pressehouse, standing alone amongst Vineyards, where they enclosed me in a room till day light, for hither was the Rack brought the night before, and privily placed in the end of a Trance.  
And all this secrecy was used, that neither English, French, or Flemings, should see or get any knowledge of my Trial, my grievous Tortures, and dreadful dispatch, because of their treacherous and cruel proceedings.  
At the breach of day the Governor Don Francisco, and the Alcalde, came forth in another Coach: where when arrived, and I invited to their presence, I pleaded for a Trench-man, being against their Law, to accuse or condemn a stranger, 
A stranger ought not to be accused with strangeers without an Interpreter  without a sufficient Interpreter. The which they absolutely refused, neither would they suffer, or grant me an Appellation to Madrid.  
And now after long and new Examinations, from morning, to dark night, they finding my first and second Confession so run in one, that the Governor swore, I had learned the art of memory: saying, further, is it possible he can in such distress, and so long a time, observe so strictly in every manner the points of his first Confession, and I so often shifting him too and fro.  
Well, the Governors' interrogation and my Confession being mutually subscribed: He and Don Francisco besought me earnestly to acknowledge and confess my guiltiness in time: if not, he would deliver me in the Alcaldes hands there present: Saying moreover, thou art as yet in my power, and I may spare or pardon thee, providing thou wilt confess thyself a Spy, and a Traitor against our Nation.  
But finding me stand fast to the mark of my spotless innocency, he, invective, and malicious he, after many tremenduous threatenings, commanded the Scrivan to draw up a Warrant for the chief Justice: And done, he set his hand to it, and taking me by the hand, delivered me and the War●rant in the Alcalde Majors hands, to cause me be Tortured, broken, and cruelly Tormented.  
Whence being carried along on the Sergeants arms, to the end of a Trance or stone-Gallery, where the Pottaro or Rack was placed: The Encarnador or Tormentor, began to disburden me of my irons, which being very hard inbolted he could not Ram●verse the Wedges for a long time: Whereat the chief Justice being offended, the malicious Villain with the Hammer which he had in his hand, 
A merciless hu●t, before they begun to rack me.  stroke away above an inch of my left heel with the Bolt. Whereupon I grievously groaning, being exceeding faint, and without my three ounces of bread, and a little water for three days together▪ the Alcalde said, O Traitor, all this is nothing but the earnest of a greater bargain you have in hand.  
Now the Irons being dissolved, and my Torments approaching, I fell prostrate on my knees crying to the Heavens.  
O Great and Gracious GOD, it is truly known to thy alseeing Eye, that I am innocent of these fal●e and fearful accusations, and since therefore it is thy Good will and pleasure, that I must suffer, now by the scelerate hands of merciless men; LORD furnish me with Courage, Strength, and Patience, lest by an impatient Mind, and feeble Spirit, I become my own Murderer, in Confessing myself guilty of Death, to shun present punishment. And according to the multitude of thy mercies, O Lord be merciful to my sinful Soul, and that for jesus thy Son and my Redeemer his sake.  
After this the Alcalde, and Scrivan being both Chaireset, the one to examining, the other to write down my Confession and Tortures: I was by the Executioner stripped to the skin, brought to the rack; and then mounted by him on the top of it: Where eftsoons I was hung be the pare shoulders, with two small cords, which went under both my arms running on two rings of iron that were fixed in the Wall above my head.  
Thus being hoist, to the appointed height, the Torment or descended below, and drawing down my Legs, through the two sides of the three planked Rack, he tied a Cord about each of my ankles: 
The hams and lids of my knees were both broken.  And then ascending upon the rack, he drew the cords upward, and bending forward with mainforce my two knelt against the two planks; the sinews of my hams burst asunder, and the lids of my knees being crushed, and the Cords made fast, I hung so demayned, for a large hour.  
At last the Encarnador, informing the Governor that I had the mark of jerusalem on my right arm, joined with the name and Crown of King james, and done upon the Holy Grave; The Corridigor came out of his adjoining stance and gave direction to tear a sunder, the name and Crown (as he said) of that Heretic King, an arch-enemy to the Holy Catholic Church: Then the tormentor laying the right arm above the left, and the Crown upmost did cast a cord over both arms seven distant times: And then lying down upon his back, and setting both his feet on my hollow-pinched belly, he charged and drew violently with his hands, making my Womb suppor the force of his feet, till the seven several Cords combined in one place of my arm (and cutting the Crown, sinews, and flesh to the bare bones) did pull in my fingers close to the palm of my hands; the left hand of which is Lame so still, and will be for ever.  
Now mine eyes began to startle, my mouth to foam and froth, and my teeth to chatter like to the doubling of Drummers sticks. 
O cruel and inhuman murder.  O strange inhumanity of Men, monster manglers! I surpassing the limits of their national Law; three score Tortures being the trial of Treason, which I had and was to endure: yet thus to inflict a sevenfold surplusage of more intolerable cruelties: And notwithstanding of my shivering lips, in this fiery passion, my vehement groaning, and blood springing fonts, from arms, broke sinews, hams, and knees; yea and my depending weight on flesh-cutting Cords, yet they stroke me on the face with Cudgels, to abate and cease the thundering noise of my wrestling voice.  
At last being loosed from these Pinnacles of pain, I was handfast set on the floor, with this their incessant imploration: Confess, confess, confess in time, for thine inevitable torments ensue: where finding nothing from me but still innocent, O I am innocent, O jesus! the Lamb of God have mercy upon me, and strengthen me with patience to undergo this barbarous murder.  
Then by command of the Justice, was my trembling body laid above, and along upon the face of the Rack, with my head downward, enclosed within a circled hole; 
here begun my main tortures.  my belly upmost, and my heels upward toward the top of the Rack, my legs and arms being drawn asunder, were fastened with pins and Cords, to both sides of the outward planks; for now was I to receive my main torments.  
Now the Alcalde giving commission, the executioner laid first a cord over the calf of my leg, than an other on the middle of my thigh, and the third cord over the great of my arm; which was severally done on both sides of my body receiving the ends of the cords, 
The manne● how my body was first fastened to the Rack before my tortures were inflicted.  from these six several places through the holes made in the outward planks, which were fastened to pins, and the pins made fast with a device: for he was to charge on the outside of the planks, with as many pins as there were holes and cords; the cords being first laid meet to my skin: And on every one of these six parts of my body, I was to receive seven several tortures: each torture consisting of three winding throws of every pin; which amounted to twenty one throws in every one of these five parts.  
Then the Tormentor having charged the first passage above my body (making fast by a device each torture as they were multiplied) he went to an earthen jar standing full of water, a little beneath my head: from whence carrying a pot full of water; in the bottom whereof, there was an incised hole, which being st●pped by his thumb, till it came to my mouth, he did pour it in my belly; the measure being a Spanish Sombre which is an English Pottle: The first and second services I gladly received, such was the scorching drought of my tormenting pain, and likewise I had drunk none for three days before.  
But afterward, at the third charge perceiving these measures of water to be inflicted upon me as tortures, O strangling tortures! I closed my lips againe-standing that eager crudelity.  
Whereat the Alcalde enraged, set my teeth asunder with a pair of iron cadges detaining them there, at every several turn, 
A cruelty beyond cruelties  both mainly and manually; whereupon my hunger clungd belly waxing great, grew Drum-like imbolstred: for it being a suffocating pain, in regard of my head hanging downward, and the water re-ingorging itself, in my throat, with a struggling force; it strangled and swallowed up my breath from youling and gro●nong.  
And now to prevent my renewing grief (for presently my heart faileth and forsaketh me) I will only briefly avouch, that between each one of these seven circular charges I was aye reexamined, each examination continuing half an hour: each half hour a hell of internal pain; and between each torment, a long distance of life-quelling time.  
Thus lay I five hours upon the Rack, between four a clock afternoon, and ten a clock at night, having had inflicted upon me sixty several torments: Nevertheless they continued me a large half hour (after all my torments) at the full bending; 
A hellish an● insupportable pain.  where my body being all begored with blood, and cut through in every part, to the crushed and bruised bones, I pitifully remained, still roaring, howling, foaming; bellowing, and gnashing my teeth, within supportable cries, before the pins were undone, and my body loosed.  
True it is, it passeth the capacity of man, either sensibly to conceive, or I patiently to express the intolerable anxiety of mind, and affliction of body, in that dreadful time I sustained.  
At last my head being by their arms advanced, and my body taken from the Rack, the water regusned abundantly from my mouth; then they recloathing my broken, bloody, and cold trembling body being all this time stark naked, I fell twice in a founding trance: which they again refreshed with a little wine, and two warm Eggs, not for charity done, but that I should be reserved t● further punishment; and if it were not too truly known those sufferings to be of truth, it would almost seem incredible to many, that a man being brought so low with starving hunger, and extreme cruelties, cou●d have subsisted any longer reserving life.  
And now at last they charged my br●ken legs, with my former eye-frighting irons, and done, I was lamentably carried on their arms to the Coach, being after midnight, 
A lamentable remembrance of inhuma●e cruelty.  and secretly transported to my former Dungeon without any knowledge to the town, save only these my lawless, and merciless Tormentors: where when come, I was laid with my head and my heels alike high, on my former stones.  
The latter end of this woeful night poor mourning Hazier the Turk, was set to keep me, and on the morrow the governor entered my room threatening me still with more tortures to conferee; and so caused he every morning long before day, his Coach to be rumbled at his gate and about me where I lay a great noise of tongues, and opening of doors: 
A dreadful affrighting for 〈◊〉 to tures.  and all this they did of purpose to affright and distract me, and to make me believe I was going to be racked again, to make me confess an untruth; and still thus they continued every day of five days till Christmas.  
Upon Christmas day Mariana the Lady's Gentlewoman got permission to visit me, and with her licence she brought abundance of tears, presenting me also with a dish of Honey and Sugar, some confections and Reasons in a great plenty to my no small Comfort, besides using many sweet speeches for consolations sake.  
She gone, and the next morning of Saint john's day come, long ere day the Tower was in Arms, the Bells rin●ing backward, the people shouting, and Drums beat, whereon my soul was over joyed, thinking that the Moors had seized upon all: and in the afternoon the Turk coming to me with bread and water, being by chance the second day, I asked him what the fray was? who reply●d, be o● good courage, I hope in God and Mahomet, 
Alas, too go● new● not to have been true.  that you and I ere long shall be set at liberty for your Countrymen, the English Armado, and mine the Mooes, are joined together, and coming to sack Malaga: And this morning post came from Allagant to premonish the Governor thereof: whereupon he and the Town have instantly pulled down, all the Coppet shops, and dwelling Houses that were builded without the shore side adjoining to the Town's Wall: But yet said he, it is no matter, the Town may easily be surprised, and I hope we shall be merry in Algiers, for there is above a hundred sail seen coming hithtr; and therewith kissing my cheek, he kindly left me.  
Indeed, as for such news from A●lagant; the detriment of twenty eight houses, the shoar-planted Cannon, the suspicion they had of the English, and the Town four days in Arms, were all true, save only the confederacy of the English with the Moors, that was false.  
Witness Sir Richard Halkins, and the Captains of his Squader, who alittle after Christmas coming to the Road, went to the Governor to clear himself, and the Fleet of that absurd imputation laid to their charge. The twelfth day of Christmas expired, they began to threaten me on still with more Tortures, even till Candlemas: In all which comfortless time, I was miserably afflicted with the beastly plague of gnawing vermin, which lay crawling in lumps, within, without, and about my body: yea hangging in clusters about my beard, my lips, my nostrils, and my eyebrows almost enclosing my sight.  
And for a greater satisfaction to their merciless minds, the Governor caused Areta, his silver plate keeper, to gather and sweep the vermin upon me twice in eight days, 
No pain so grievous, as a lame man to be still tormented with gnawing vermin.  which tormented me to the death, being a perpetual punishment; for mine arms being broke, my hands lucken, and sticking fast to the palms of both hands by reason of the shrunk sinews; I was unable to lift mine arms to stir my fingers; much less to avoid the filthy Vermin: neither could my legs and feet perform it, being impotent in all. Yet I acknowledge the poor Infidel, some few times, and when opportunity served, would steal the keys from Areta, and about midnight would enter my room, with sticks and burning oil, and sweeping them together in heaps, would burn the greatest part, to my great release; or doubtless I had been miserable eat up, and devoured by them.  
And now some eight days before Candlemas, the slave informed me, that an English Seminary Priest, born in London, and belonging to the Bishop's College of Malaga; and a Scotish Cowper named Alexander Ley, borne in Dunbar, and there married were in Translating allmy Books and Observations out of English, in the Spanish tongue, bringing every other day's numbers of wrote Papers to the Governor, and for their pains had thirty ducats allowed, and that they were saying, I was an Archhereticke to the Pope, and the Virgin Mary.  
Having re-dounded him concealed thanks, I was assured of their bloody Inquisition, preparing myself in God, with Faith, and patience to receive and gain-stand it: for my spiritual Resolution was surely founded; being sightless of Company, and humane faces, I had entirely the light of my Soul celebrate to God Almighty.  
And hereupon the second day after Candlemas, the Governor, 
A politic enquiry of a damnable inquisition.  the Inquisitor a Canonical Priest, entered my dungeon accompanied with two Jesuits, one of which was Predicator, and superior of the Tiatinean College of Malaga: Where being Chair set, Candle lighted, and door locked; the inquisitor after divers frivolous questions, demanded me if I was a Roman Catholik, and acknowledged the Pope's Supremacy. To whom I answered, I was neither the one, or did the other. And what power (said I,) have you to challenge me of my Religion, since it is a chief Article, of the former concluded peace, that one of our King's subjects should be troubled by your Inquisition; but as you have murdered me for alleged Treason, so you mean to Martyr me for Religion.  
And you Governor, as you have Tortured and hungerstarved this helpless body, consumed with cold and Vermin to the last of my life; the Almighty God who revealeth the secrets of all things (although I be never relieved) will certainly discover it to my Country and to the World. And is this the best of your good deeds you repay to our merciful King, who then being only King of Scotland, in the time of your just overthrow of Eighty Eight, gave secourse to thousands of your Ship-wracked people for many months; and in the end caused transport them safely to their desired Ports. Leaving to the World's memory an eternal stamp of Christian Bounty, Mercy, and Royal Charitid: and your acquittance to him, is an imputation of treachery to his Fleet, detaining and mis-regarding his Letters and Seals, and now imposing to a tormented Innocent, your lawless Inquisition.  
To which the Governor answered, all tha● was true, but it was done more through fear then love, and therefore deserved the lesser thanks; but (interim) we will follow the uttermost of our ends. And the Jesuit Predicator to confirm his words, said, there was no Faith to ●ee kept with Heretics, which directly or indirectly is the sublime policy of conquerors, which our mighty and innumerable Nation evermore taketh notice of and observeth.  
Then the Inquisitor arising, 
A damnable Inquisitor applying ●alse attributes to our blessed Lady.  expressed himself thus: Behold the powerful majesty of God's mother, Commander of her Son, equal to the Father, Wife to the Holy-Ghost, Queen of Heaven, Protector of Angels, and sole Gubernatrix of the Earth, etc. How thou being first taken as a Spy, accused for Treachery, and innocently Tortured (as we acknowledge we were better informed lately from Madrile of the English intention) yet it was her power, her Divine power, which brought these judgements upon thee it that thou hast wrote calumniously against her blessed miracles of Loretta: an● against his Holiness, the great agent and Christ's Vicar on Earth: Therefore thou hast justly fall'n into our hands by her special appointment; Thy Books and Papers, are miraculously translated by her special providence with my own Countrymen: wherefore thou mayst clearly see, the impenetrable Mysteries of our glorious Lady in punishing her offenders: and for a humble satisfaction, Repent thee of thy wickedness, and be converte● to the Holy mother Church. And after many such like exhortations of all the four, the Inquisitor assigned me eight days for my Conversion: saying, that he and the Tiatines would twice a day visit me in that time, entreating me to be advised again the next morning, of these doubts and difficulties that withstood my Conscience.  
Then in leaving me, 
A Sycophanticall Oration from a juggling Jebusite.  the Jesuit Predicator making a Cross upon my crossed breast, said, My son, behold you deserve to be burnt quick; but by the grace of our Lady of Loretta, whom you have blasphemed, we will both save your soul and body: Spewing forth also this Feminine Latin; Nam mansueta et misericordiosa est Ecclesia, O Ecclesia Romana! extra quem non est salus: They gone, and I alone all this night, was I instant with my God, imploring his grace to rectify my thoughts, illuminate my understanding, confirm my confidence, beatify my memory, to sanctify my knowledge, to expel the servile fear of death, and to save my soul from the intangling Corruption of any private ends, illusions, or mundane Respects whatsoever.  
The next morning, the three Ecclesiastickes returned, and being placed with Chairs and Candles, the Inquisitor made interrogation, of what difficulties, errors, or misbelief I had: To whom ingenuously I answered I had none, neither any difficulty, error, nor misbelief; but was confident in the promises of jesus Christ, and assuredly believed his revealed will in the Gospel, professed in the Reformed Catholic Church; which being confirmed by Grace, I had the infallible assurance in my soul, of the true Christian Faith.  
To these words he answered, thou art no Christian, but an absurd Heretic, and without conversion, a member of perdition, whereupon I replied, Reverend Sir, the nature of Charity and Religion, do not consist in opprobrious speeches; wherefore if you would convert me (as you say) convince me by Argument: if not, all your threatenings of Fire, 
The fury of a mad Inquisitor to have almost slain me.  Death, nor Torments, shall make me shrink from the truth of God's word in Sacred Scriptures. Where upon the mad Inquisitor clapped me on the face with his foot, busing me with many Rail, and if the Jesuits had not intercepted him, he had stabbed me with a knife; where when dismissed, I never saw him more.  
The third day ensuing (and having broke their promise) the two Jesuits returned, and after a frowning silence the Superior asked me of my resolution: I told him I was resolved already unless he could show me good reasons in the contrary. Whereupon having passed with me some few superficial Arguments of their seven Sacraments, Intercession, Transubstantiation? Images, Purgatory, Miracles, Merit, etc. he begun to brag of their Church, her Antiquity, Universality, and Uniformity Ancient? no (said I) for the Profession of my Faith, hath been ever since the first time of the Apostles; And Christ had ever his own Church (howsoever obscure) in the greatest time of your darkness,  
So Rome four hundred years and upward, was the true Church; but afterward falling in apostasy by means of her corrupt leaders, we have left her in nothing, but what she hath left her former self. Universal? no, alhough she assumeth a Catholic name, was not the Church in the East, a greater Church than yours in the West for hundreds of yeared? and I pray you what are now the Oriental Churches in Asia, besides the Greeks and the Aethiopian Africans, that do not so much as know, or hear of your pope, far less his profession?  
With no small ado, Boniface the third ●btained of Phocas the Emperor to be called universal Bishop: which was assisted afterward by Pippin the Frenh King, and ratified by Paleologus, the Father of Constantine, who lost Constantinople: And what long controversies about this new power was between your Popes and the Counsels of Carthage, 
The Romish Church falls short of true antiquity, universality, and uniform●●●●.  Chalcedon, Ephesus, Alexandria, and Nice. Uniformable? no; some of your Priests give the Sacrament only in Bread, for real flesh and blood, some in wine without bread, and some in both.  
The Bavarians in their own language sing the Psalms in prose at their Masses, and not else where done: The second Commandment goeth currant amongst some of your Catholics in France, yet not in Britain, nor Provence; so doth it in Austri● and Bavaria, but not in Italy and Spain.  
It is most evident, what your former Popes have confirmed, the succeeding Popes have disannulled and daily do, as their present lives, and your ancient Histories bear a true record.  
And was there not at one time, three Popes in three several places? and oftentimes two at once: One professing one Heresy, and another Atheism? What mutinies and malice are daily among your Monasteries, each envying an others privilege, another's preferment, another's wealth: And your order (father) by all the ot●er monastics, is hated and vil●pended to death; besides diversities of Doctrine between your professors and the Dominicans: and hundreds of like disunities you have both in ceremony and order which now I suspend: So I pray you (father) where your uniformity, much less your universality and worst of all your antiquity.  
Having thus concluded, the fiery faced Jesuits, with boisterous menacings left me; and the eight day thereafter, being the last day of their Inquisition, they returned again, in a more milder disposition: where after divers arguments on both sides, the two Jesuits with Tears distilling from their eyes, solidly protested, they were sorry from their heart, for that terrible death I was to undergo, and above all, the losing of my Soul. And falling down on their knees, 
The Jesuits last allurements for my conversion to their sect.  cried, Convert, convert, O dear brother! for our blessed Lady's sake convert: To whom I replied, that neither death nor fire I feared; for I was resolved for both: yet thinking myself unworthy to suffer for Christ and the Gospel's sake considering my vileness and my own unworthiness: yet the spirit of God assureth my faith it is his divine pleasure it should be so that I must suffer: Wherefore if I should divert, trust me not, for I would but dissemble with you (through fear, flattery, or force) to shun present death.  
Whereupon they called the Governor, and after their privy consulting, he thus spoke; Dear brother, my greatest desire is to have thee a good Christian, a Roman Catholic, to which if thy conscience will yield, I will show thee as great courtesy, as thou hast received cruelty; for pity it were, that such an invincible spirit and endued with so many good parts, should perish in both worlds forever. Pluck up thy heart, and let the love of our blessed Lady enter in thy soul: Let not thy former sufferings dismay thee (for thy ●ores being yet green and curable) I shall transport thee to a fine Chamber; and there thou shalt have all needful things for the recovery of thy health and strength. Thy money and Patents shall he refounded, but thy heretical Books are already burned: And lastly said he, I will send thee with my own servant to Court, Counsel and King, with letters from the holy inquisition, and from me, faithfully promising thou shalst enjoy a Pension of three hundred Ducats a year.  
But having satisfied his bewitching policy with a Christian constancy; they all three left me in a thundering rage; vowing I should that night have the first seal of my long sorrows: And directing their course to the Bishop and Inquisitor (for the Governor had wrested the inquisition upon me, to free him of his former aspersion laid upon the English Fleet, and my trial therefore, converting it all to matters of Religion) the Inquisition (I say) sat forth with, 
A Condemnatory Sentence to death by the Inquisition.  where first I was condemned to receive that night eleven strangling torments in my dungeon: and then after Easter Holy days, I should be transported privately to Grenada, and thereabouts midnight to be burnt body and bones into ashes, and my ashes to be flung into the air: Well, that same night the Scrivan, Sergeants, and the young English Priest entered my melancholy stance: where the Priest in the English tongue urging me all that he could (though little it was he could do) and unprevailing, I was disburdened of mine irons, unclothed to my skin, set on my knees and held up fast with their hands: where instantly setting my teeth asunder with iron Cadges, they filled my belly full of water, even gorgeing to my throat: Then with a g●rter they bound fast my throat, till the white of mine eye turned upward; and being laid on my side, I was by two Sergeants tumbled too and fro seven times through the room; even till I was almost strangled: This done, they fastened a small cord about each one of my great toes, and hoisting me therewith to the roof of a high loft (for the cords run on two rings of iron fastened above) they cut the garter, and there I hung with my head downward, in my tormented weight, till all the gushing water dissolved: This done, I was let down from the loft, quite senseless, lying a long time cold dead among their hands: whereof the Governor being informed, came running up stairs, crying, Is he dead? O fie villains, go fetch me Wine, which they poured in my mouth, regaining thereby a slender spark of breath.  
These strangling torments ended, 
A Turkish slaves charity in the bowels of compassion.  and I reclothed, and fast bolted again, they left me lying on the cold floor praising my God, and singing of a Psalm. The next morning the pitiful Turk visiting me with bread and water, brought me also secretly in his shirt-sleeve, two handful of Rasins and figs, laying them on the floor amongst the crawling vermin, for having no use of arms nor hands, I was constrained by hunger and impotency of time, to lick one up with another with my tongue: This charity of figs the slave did once every week or fortnight, or else I had long ere then famished.  
After which sorrowful distress, and inhuman usage, the eye-melting Turk taking displeasure, fell five days sick, and bed fast: but the house Spaniard's understanding his disease made him believe, I was a Devil, a Sorcerer, a Necromancer, and a blasphemous miscreant, against their Pope, their Lady, and their Church; giving him such a distaste, that for thirty days, he never durst look me in the face, being afraid of witchcraft.  
All this time of his absence, one Ellinor the Cook, an Indian Negro-woman, attended me for she being a Christian drudge, h●d more liberty to visit me, than the slavish Infidel: who certainly (under God) prolonged then my languishing life, conveying me for four week's space, once a day, some less or more nourishment, and in her pocket a bottle glass of Wine. Being no ways semblable to the soul betraying tears of her Crocodilean sex, 
The deceitfulness of female inconstancies.  which the Spanish proverb prettily avoucheth: l●s mugeres, engannan a los hombres; dellas lastimandoles, consus lagrimas fingidas; dellas halagardoles, con Palagras lesongeras: to wit, women deceived men, some of them, grieving them with their feigned tears, and other fawning on them with flattering words. But; 
Kind Ellenor though black by nature borne,  
Made bounty (not her beauty) to adorn  
Her new changed Pagan life (though veiled by night  
Of Romish shades) to shine on me more bright,  
Then Sun scorched Aethiope beams; Art-glancing spangles:  
Or that Egyptian Bird, man's sight entangles  
With rarest colours: for her loving sight  
Though black as pitch, gave me transparent light:  
Food, and stolne-food, though little, yet enough;  
(The finer soil, the ebber tills the Plough)  
Second with Wine, a mutchkin, thrice a week  
Packed in her pocket, for it might not speak:  
Thus Females have extremes, and too we see,  
Either too wicked, or too good they be;  
For being good, no Creature can excel them:  
And being bad, no ill can parallel them:  
But sure this gift, from course of nature came,  
Raised up by Heaven to be my nursing Dame;  
For she a Savage bred, yet shows more Love  
And humane pity, than desert could move:  
Wherein she stained the Spaniards; they did nought  
But what revenge, on slaughtered sorrow wrought:  
Thus, they who turned her, went themselves astray,  
And she thought ignorant traced the Christian way:  
For which great God reward her, make her soul  
As white within, as she without is foul;  
And if I might, as reason knows, I would  
Her love, and praise, my deeds should crown with gold.   
Now about the middle of Lent, Hazier, my former Friend, was apppointed to attend me again, suspecting Ellenors' compassion; but as my miseries were multiplied, my Patience in God was redoubled: For men are rather killed with the impatience they have in adversity, than adversity itself: And of all men, that man is most unhappy, 
An impatient mind in trouble is a triple torture.  to whom God in his troubles hath not given Patience; for as the violent enemy of age is grief, so is the minds impatiency, the arch corruptor of all our troubles: But indeed in the weakness of judgement, when men seem lost by long affliction to themselves, than they are often and ever nearest to God: for who would have thought, that I who had seen so many sexes and varieties of Religion, dispersed over the face of the earth, could have stuck fast to any Religion at all: Travellers being reputed to be Vbique et ●mnibus parati. But I will tell thee Christian, it was the grace of God in me, and not mine: For as fire lying hid under ashes, and touched will flame; so I seeming to myself careless of Christianity, than God pricking my Conscience made trial of my Faith: For Christ forbid, that every Ship which coasteth the rockey shore, should leave her ruins there.  
This I speak not for any selfe-prayse, but to glorify God, and to condemn the rash censures of opinion, and with Photion, I mistrust myself, because of popular applause: Erubuit quasi peccasset quod placuerit: But now to abbreviat a thousand Circumstances of my Lamentable sufferings, which this Volume may not suffer to contain: By God's great providence, about a fortnight before Easter, 
God's grea● mercy in 〈◊〉 first discords by a strang●●  Anno 16●1, there came a Spanish Cavalier of Grenada to Malaga, whom the Governor one night invited to Supper, being of old acquaintance: where after Supper to entertain Discourse, the Governor related and disclosed to the stranger (God working thereby my discovery and deliverance) all the proceedings and causes of my first apprehending, my confessions, Torments, starvings, their mistaking of the English Fleet, and finally the wresting of the Inquisition upon me, and their Condemnatory Sentence; seeming also much to Lament my misfortunes, and praising my Travails and Deserts.  
Now all this while, the Gentleman's servant, a Flandrish Fleming, standing at his Master's back, and adhering to all the Governors' Relations, was astonished, to hear of a sakelesse Stranger, to have endured, and to endure such damnable Murder and Cruelty. Whereupon, the Discourse ending, and midnight past, the Stranger returned to his Lodging; where the Fleming having bedded his Master, and himself also in another Room, he could not sleep all that night, and if he slumbered, still he thought he saw a man Torturing, and burning in the fire: which he confessed to Mr. Wild's when morning came.  
Well, he longed for day, and it being come, and he clothed, he quietly left his lodging, enquiring for an English Factor, and coming to the House of Mr. Richard wild's, the chief English Consul: He told him all what he heard the Governor tell his Master, but could not tell my name: only Master Richard wild's conjectured it was I, because of the others report of a Traveller, and of his first and former acquaintance with me there.  
Whereupon the Fleming being dismissed, he strait sent for the other English Factors, 
These are the English Factors which first wrought my relief.  Mr. Richard Busbitch, Mr. john Corney, Mr. Hanger, Mr. Stanton, Mr. Cook, Mr. Rowley, and Mr. Woodson: where advising with them, what was best to be done for my relief; they sent Letters away immediately with all post diligence, to Sir Walter Aston, his Majesty's Ambassador lying at Madrile: Upon which he mediating with the King and Counsel of Spain, obtained a strait warrant to command the Governor of Malaga, to deliver me over in the English hands: which being come, to their great disliking, I was released on Easter satturday before midnight, and carried upon Hazier the slaves back to Master Busbitches house, where I was carefully attended till day light.  
Meanwhile (by great fortune) there being a Squader of his Majesty's Ships lying in the Road, Sir R●chard Halkins came early ashore, accompanied with a strong train, and received me from the Merchants: whence I was carried on men's arms in a pair of blankets, to the Vanguard his Majesty's ship. And three days thereafter, 
I d●rst not stay a shore for fear of the Inquisition.  I was transported to a ship bound for England, the Fleets victualler, named the good will of Harwich, by direction of the General Sir Robert Maunsell: where being well placed, and charge given by Sir Richard Halkins to the ships master William Westerdale, for his carefulness toward the preservation of my life, which then was brought so low & miserable. The aforesaid Merchants ●ent me from shore (besides the ships Victuals) a suit of Spanish apparel, twelve Hens, with other poultry, and a barrel of Wine, a Basket full of Eggs, two Roves of Figs and Rasins, two hundred Oranges and Lemons, eight pounds of Sugar, a number of excellent good bread and two hundred Reals in Silver and Gold; besides two double Pistols Sir Richard Halkins sent me as a token of his love.  
The kindnesses of whom to bury in oblivion, were in me the very shame of ingratitude, I being then a lost man and hopeless of life, which argued in them a greater singularity of kindness and compassion. Yet I remember for all my lament and distraction, I entreated Sir Richard Halkins to go ashore to the Governor, and demand him for my Gold, my eight Patents, my Book of Arms, and his Majesty's Letters and Seals, the which he willingly obeyed, being accompanied with Captain Cave, and Captain Raymond, but could obtain nothing at all, save blandements and leying excuses.  
And now on the twelfth day of our lying in the Road, our ship weighing her Anchors, and hoisting her Sails we passed through the straits of Gibelterre, fretum Herculeum; for this was the furthest Land that Hercules could attain unto; which made him erect a Pillar, and indent thereon, nilultra; but when Charles the fifth, returned from that untoward voyage of Algiers, he caused to be set up in the same place, Plus ultra.  
Here in this Channel, I remarked a perpetual current, flowing from the Ocean to the Mediterrene Sea without any regress: which indeed is admirable; the Mediterranean Seas being hemmed in, and environed with the main Continent of South Europe; the North and North west coasts of Asia, and the Northern part of Africa; save only the narrow passage of Hellespont●, which from Mare Propontis bendeth his course to Mare Euxinum: And yet the Euxine, or black Sea, hath no affinity with any other moving waters, being likewise encompassed with the main continent: And from it also runneth a continual current, through Bosphorus Thraicus, to the Mediterranean.  
This narrow Sea on Africa, or side of Fez consisteth between Cabdy Sprat, 
The straight of Gi●●lterre five leagues broad.  and the Promontory of Sewty, and upon the coast of Spain, between Cap de Trafolger, and (the butting forehead land of Gibelterre, or jubilee Tauro; the passage being five leagues broad, and nine in length.  
And to be brief, upon the fifty day after my departure from Malaga, I arrived at Dutford upon Thames, whence the next morning I was carried to theobald's on a featherbed, and brought to the Privy Gallery, for the Kings coming from Park. Witness all the Court of England, even from the King to the Kitchen, what a martyred anatomy I was, at their first sight of me; and what small hope was either expected of my life or recovery.  
Where, when immediately having made my most humble and grievous complaints unto his sacred Majesty, his gracious consideration (in the mean time) was such, for the recovery of my health, that I was twice sent to the Bath at the charges of his Royal love, during the space of twenty-seven weeks, whereby the divine providence and his Princely clemency, I have recovered for the time in a large measure, the health and strength of my body, although my left Arm and crushed bones be incurable.  
Mean while, in the first Week of my Arrival in England, I was conveyed from Theobalds' (by his Majesty's direction) to Don Drego Sarmento de Gundamore the Spanish Ambassador, than Resident in Holborn. 
A false promise unperformed.  Where he votally undertook, before then the two Lord Marquesses, Hammi●ton and Buckingham, (confirming it the day following to his Majesty at Greenwich) that after a condign trial had from Spain, concerning my grievances; I should have all my money, clothes, Observations, Testimonial Patents, and his Majesty's Seals restored●ne again, with a thousand pound sterling also, (being modified by his Royal pleasure) of the Governor of Malagaes' means, for the maintaining of my Lame and Racked body.  
These promises were made the sixth of june 1621. and were to be performed again Michaelmas day ensuing: But this day come, he continued his drifts to the Primavera; and it also arrived, he deferred time, with new protestations, only to Easter or Pascua: And that Season come, he turned my Pascua to Prison: For a little before his departure (seeing his policy too strong for mine oppressed patience) I told him flatly in his face, from the grief of my soul, what he was, and what he went about, which afterward proved true: Whereupon in the Chamber of Presence, before the Emperor's Ambassador, and divers Knights and Gentlemen, 
A single combat 〈◊〉 a Spanish 〈◊〉 and a Sco●●●sh traveller.  his Majesty's servants: he rashly adventured the credit of 〈◊〉 honour, in a single Combat against me a retorted plaintive: Where indeed his Fistula contra-banded with a fist, and for Victory, favour lent him authority; because of my Commitment, for I lay nine Weeks iucarcer●te in the Marshallsea at Southwark: Whence I returned with more credit, than he left England with honesty; being bot● Vanquished and Victor. And my Muse left to mourn for my Liberty, deplored thus: 
Low levelled lie my lofty soaring aims,  
Low droops the flight, of my swift winged design;  
Low bows that top, whose height true meria claims:  
Low headlong falls the scope of my Engine:  
Low turns my round, harsh grow the sacred nine;  
Low sink my joys, pale grief, converts in care:  
Low lurks Ambition, in this breast of mine:  
Low stoup these smiles, that Fortune wont to share;  
Low rest my drifts, my curious Travails rare:  
Low scude the limits, of my highbred thought:  
Low plunge my hopes, in dark deeps of despair;  
Low I o'erthrown, with crosses low am brought:  
Low live I here, in sad restraint and strife:  
Low then the lower of the lowest life:  
Low was I am, i'll lowly Sacrifice:  
Low deep fetched sighs▪ to heaven on my low Knees.   
But I remember in the aforesaid time of this my imprisonment, 
A false aspersion laid on me by Papists.  there were two Papists my Countrymen, who wrote to me a Letter, not like to a familiar Epistle of Cicero; no, but that they would have fastened an untruth upon me, affirming that I was a Roman Catholic in my heart, and that they would justify it that I received the Sacrament at Rome, in the first year that Paulus (Burgesius) Papa Quintus, came to his triple Crown: to whom in a true and Christian defence, my serious and approbable reply was thus: 
THis is your Papal mark,  
that as you run astray,  
You either would, or needs will have,  
Christ's flock to lose their way.  
Can you avouch this point,  
and dare you blaze your shame,  
Thus Painter-like to portrayed so,  
a figure for a Name.  
Shall Symbolising I,  
by Paragraphs defined,  
In Paradoxicks' passages,  
Equivocate my mind.  
No tinture shall engross,  
my Senses so delude,  
To maculate my Splendent path,  
with positives intrude:  
In this Aversion I,  
I more than Victor live,  
Let Critics stern aspersions spew,  
this Project i'll Achieve:  
My words shall Seal the truth,  
my heart reserves the stamp,  
Wherein my Characters of Faith,  
as zealous shall encamp.  
That desuetude of Soul,  
I never did embrace,  
Nor shall; nor did, God is my judge,  
such was his heavenly grace:  
No secondary means,  
shall aggravate my hope,  
The ancient Rule of primacy,  
shall be my modern scope:  
Can such occurrents stand,  
as ominous in me,  
When you detract and falsely wrest,  
the truth in perjury?  
It is your lineal strain,  
Collusions to induct,  
With Mystic Contradictories,  
your implies you construct:  
No inference can pry,  
nor strange illation prove;  
In your exorbitanting brains,  
my period I did move:  
This Microcosmos mine,  
such imputation scorns;  
And turns this grim demoniat spite,  
on your Hell-forked horns.  
My name you press to stain,  
by base abortive lies,  
To circumcise my recent fame,  
with sharp edged Calumnies:  
And labour to depress;  
that Confluence I have  
From Heaven ascribed, confirmed by grace,  
the pledge my Spirit doth crave:  
That strife cannot avail,  
I so assume the right;  
Your doubled darkened eyes perceive,  
I triumph in the light:  
It's not your bloody Priests,  
nor Tortures can prevail,  
I passed your Purgatory ones,  
the rest must you impale,  
For what by dread or strain,  
you can not work nor do,  
You wrest, you ley, you paint, you fain,  
and add illusions too:  
These Latent Forgeries,  
annexed to your Faith,  
As pendicles precipitate,  
enhance your Souls to death:  
With shrewd Acerbious speech,  
you Anathematise  
My will Reciprocal to yours,  
such guile you Moralise:  
But this reflexing heart,  
in a transparent flame,  
Can by experience construe well,  
your Church's Sire and Dame:  
No Tort I introduct,  
to damnify your Sex,  
Whose empty Skulls (illuding fear)  
yourselves perverstly vex:  
I Organize the Truth,  
you Allegate the Sense,  
Disbending cominous defects,  
in your absurd pretence:  
Your immaterial proofs,  
I wish you would detect,  
My Process craves sedulily,  
for what you Gulls Suspect.   
After this their sequel answer being mortified, and I set at liberty by a just favour of the Privy Council, my formalists durst never attempt any further dispute with me, neither any passing countenance in our rencounters: But what shall I say concerning my grievances, Sed qui Patitur vincit: Since there is no help or Redress to be had for wrongs past, no, neither (alas) for any present in either mean, or mighty falls: for when the Stars of great states, decline under the selfsame constellation of my sorrows, and made the deplored for spectacles, of the inconstancy of fortune; what shall I then in a private life, and public pilgrimage expect, but the common calamity of this age, and the irrevocable redress of my miseries sustained, for this Crown and Kingdom of England, which shall be presently cleared: yet would to God, I might do, as Xerxes the Persian King did, that when the greeks had taken Sardis, the Metropole of Lydia, he commanded one of his servants to stand before him every day at dinner, and cry aloud, saying; the Grecians have taken Sardis: whereby he was never at quiet, till it was recovered.  
So would I, 
Incompatible grief without deserved relief.  oppressed I, by mighty powers (though not a King, yet the faithful subject of a King) cry daily from the heart broken sorrow of my incompatible injuries; O barbarous, and inhuman Malaga! when shall my soul be revenged on thy cruel murder, and when shall mine eyes see thy merciless destruction? but tush what dream I; now a day's grief can find no relief, far less compassion, and meaner revenge, and so farewell satisfaction, when flattering fear dare challenge obsequiousness, to the alteration of any thing.  
But afterward when death, Heaven's fatal messenger, and enemy to nature, had darted King james of matchless memory; who sometimes (besides my sovereign) in some respects, and for the former cause, was a father to me; then was I forcibly (I say) constrained to prefer a bill of grievance to the upper house of Parliament Anno 1626. which I daily followed 17. weeks: well; my grievances were heard and considered, and thereupon an order granted me (bearing the Lord's reference pleasure concerning my suit) unto Sir Thomas Coventrey Lord keeper of England's great Seal; and through whose office my business should have passed: which order was delivered unto him, by Mr. james Maxwell Knight of the black Rod, and one of his Majesty's Bed chamber, in behalf of the Lords of the upper house: the order thus being reserved then with the Lord Keeper for a month, he appointed me to fetch him (because of a Warrant to his State office) the Certificats of Sir Walter Aston, 
A direction for Certificats by the Lord Keeper.  Sir Robert Maunsell, and Sir Thomas Button, to clear my sufferings, and the causes wherefore: which I gladly obeyed, and brought all their three Certificates, unto him: yea and Sir Walter Aston, (besides his hand writ) spoke seriously face to face with him there, anent.  
Mean while the house breaking up abruptly (because of sovereign disliking) their order for my suit could take none effect as then, nor yet since, in regard it was no Session of Parliament; and so my order and relief lieth suspended till some happy time.  
But now to confound the calumnious and vituperious Papists, the miscreant and miserable Atheists, the Peevish and self opinionating Puritans, the faithless misbelieving Mongrels of true Religion, and of this truth: And the very objections have been said sometimes in my face by irreligious and disdainful Nullifidians: who have said and thought that I could neither be so constant, nor they so cruel: I think it not amiss, to set down verbally one of their Certificates here, being all o● one stile and to one purpose; and thus it followeth.  
To the Right Honourable, Sir Thomas Coventry Knight, Lord Keeper of the great Seal of England, etc.  
MAy it please your Honour: I have taken boldness to certify your good Lordship, of the truth concerning the grievous sufferings of this heavily injured man, William Lithgow: true it is, that this bearer, being bound for Alexandria in Egypt, having with him Letters of safe conduct, under the Hand and Seal of his late Majesty King James of blessed memory; rancountred with us, and our Fleet at Malaga: Whereof I was employed as Vice-admiral against the Pirates of Algiers; where he repairing a Board of us, and frequenting our Company ashoore, was presently (after we had set Sail) apprehended by command of the Governor and Magistrates there as a Spy, whom they suspected, had of purpose been left behind by our General, and us of the Counsel of War, for the Discovery of that place, and other adjacent parts: Whereupon being secretly imprisoned in the Governors' Palace; and after serious examination of our intention; he was without any cause done, or offered by him, most unjustly put to the cruel Rack and tortures; besides all other his unspeakable miseries, which for a long time he sustained thereafter: whereof I was credibly and infallibly informed by Mr▪ Richard Wild's, to whom he was first discovered, and by other English Factors of good note then resident there. In my repairing divers times to the Road of that town with my Squadron of ships, during the time of his long imprisonment, and after his deliverance. And afterward the Governor there being better informed of our loyal proceedings in those parts, and to colour their former cruelties▪ and suspicion had of us, he did wrest the Inquisition upon him, where being condemned to Death, he had doubtless undergone (as I was likewise truly informed by the aforesaid Merchants) the final Sentence of their Inquisition: if it had not been, for the Religious care, and speedy prevention of Sir Walter Aston, than Leaguer Ambassador there: By whose earnest mediation he being delivered, and afterwards sent home by direction of Sir Robert Maunsell General: I now commend his grievous and lamentable cause, unto your Lordships tender and Religious Consideration. Resting,  
From Fulham this tenth of july. 1626. Your Lordship's Command, to serve You: Thomas Button Knight, and Vice-admiral.  
And now to conclude this Tragical discourse, the Religious eye, may perceive, God's compassionate love, four ways here extended. First, his powerful providence in my long and admirable preservation in Prison: hunger, Vermine, and Tortures, being my comfortless Companions. Secondly, the pitiful kindness of his All-seeing Eye, in the miraculous Wonder of my Discovery, when the perverted policy of subtle Serpents, had sceleratly suggested my concealment. Thirdly, his unspeakable mercy in my unlookedfor deliverance, being by hopeless me, not thought, nor sought; and yet by his munificence was wrought. And lastly, his gracious goodness, in the recovery (after some large measure) of my health and use of my body again; all praise and glory be to his infinite Majesty therefore.  
ANd finally, merit being masked, with the darkness of ingratitude, and the morning Springtide of 1627. come: I set face from Court for Scotland, suiting my discontents, with a pedestriall Progress, and my feet with the palludiat way; where fixing mine eyes on Edenbrugh, and prosecuting the Tenor of a Regal Commission (which partly being somewhere obeyed, and otherwhere suspended) it gave me a large sight of the whole Kingdom, both Continent, and Iles. The particular Description whereof, in all parts, and of all places, besides Ports and Rivers: I must refer to the own Volume already perfected, In●i●ula●ed Lit●g●wes Survey of Scotland; which this Work may not Contain, nor time suffer to publish till a fi●ter ●ccasion. Only Commenting a little upon some generals. I hasten to be at Finis. Traversing the Western Isles (whose inhabitants, like to as many Bulwarks, are abler and apt to preserve and defend their liberty and precincts from incursive invasions; then any need of Forts or Fortified places they have, or can be required there: Such is the desperate courage of these awful Hebridians:) I arrived (I say) at the I'll of Arrane, Anno 1628. where for certain days, in the Castle of Braidwicke, I was kindly entertained, by the illustrious Lord, james marquis of Hamilton, Earl of Arrane and Cambridge, etc.  
Whom GGD may strengthen, with the liveliest Heart,  
And fearless Mind, of all, ere faced that Art  
For Bohems Queen: Heavens prosper His intent!  
With Glorious Success, and a Brave event:  
That by a King been Sped, for a King's Sake,  
To help a King; all Three from Him may take  
Auspicuous Service, friendship, faithful Love,  
'Gainst whom, and his, no time can breach improve.  
Let then (great God) blessed Sparks of favour fall  
On his Designs, and Theirs, our Friends and All;  
And Angels Guard Him let Thy Mighty hand  
(Partition-like) 'twixt Him, and dangers stand:  
That Martial ends, and Victory may Crown  
His happy Hopes, his Life, with Love Renown.  
This I'll of Arrane, is thirty miles long eight in breadth and distant from the Main, twenty four Miles; being sur-clouded with Goatfield Hill: which with wide-eyes, over-looketh our Western Continent, and the Northern Country of Ireland, bringing also to ●igh● in a clear Summer's day, the I'll of Man, and t●e higher Coast of Cumberland: A larger prospect no Mountain in the World can show, pointing out three Kingdoms at one sight: Neither any like Isle or braver Gentry, for good Archers, and hill-hovering Hunters. Having again re-shoared the Main, I coasted Galloway even to the Mould that butteth into the Sea, with a large Promontore, being the south-most part of the Kingdom. And thence footing all that large Country to Dumfreis, and so to Carlisle: I found here in Galloway in divers Rode-way Inns, as good Cheer, Hospitality, and Serviceable attendance, as though I had been engrafted in Lombardy or Naples.  
The Wool of which Country, 
The Nobility and commodities of Galloway excel in goodness.  is nothing inferior to that in Biscai of Spain: providing they had skill, to fine, Spin, Wove, and labour it as they should. Nay, the Portuguese silk, had never a better lustre, and softer gripe, than I have seen and touched this growing wool there ●n sheep's backs: the Mutton whereof excelleth in sweetness. So this Country aboundeth in Bestial, especially in little Horses, which for mettle and Riding may rather be termed bastard Barbes, than Gallowediau Nags.  
Likewise their Nobility and Gentry are as courteous, and every way generously disposed, as either discretion would wish, and honour Command: that (Cunningham being excepted, which may be called the Academy of Religion, for a sanctified Clergy, and a godly people) certainly Galloway is become more civil of late, than any Maritine Country, bordering with the Western Sea. But now to observe my former Summary condition, the length of the Kingdom lieth South and North: that, is between Dungsby head in Cathnes, and the foresaid Mould of Galloway; being distant● per rectam li●eam, which my weary feet ●road over from point to point (the way of ●ochreall, Carrick, Kyle, Aire, Glasgow, Stirueling, St. john's Town, Stormount, the Blair of Ath●ll▪ the Br● of Mar, Badeynoh, Innernes, Rosse, Sutherland, and so to the North Promontore of Cathnes) extending to three hundred twenty miles: which I reck●n to be four hundred and fifty English miles: Confounding hereby the ignorant presumption of blind Cosmographers, whom their Maps make England longer than Scotland; when chose Scotland outstrippeth the other in length, a hundred and twenty miles. The breadth whereof I grant is narrower than England; yet extending between the extremities of both Coasts in divers parts to threescore, fourscore and a hundred of our miles: But because of the Sea ingulfing the Land, and cutting it in so many Angles making great Lakes, Bays, and dangerous Firths, on both sides of the Kingdom, the true breadth thereof cannot justly be conjectured▪ nor sound set down.  
Our chiefest fresh water Lakes are these, Lochlomond, containing twenty ●oure Isles, and in length as many miles: diverse whereof are enriched with Woods, Dear, and other Bestial: The large and long Lake of Loch Tay, in Athol, the Mother and Godmother of Headstrong Tay, the greatest River in the Kingdom: And Lochnes' in the higher parts of Murray, the River whereof, (that, graceth the pleasant and commodious situation of Innerne●) no ●rost can freeze▪ The propriety of which water will quickly melt and dissolve any hard congealed lumps of frozen ●ce, be it on Man or Beast, stone or tim●er.  
The chiefest Rivers are Clyde, Tay, Tweed, Forth, Dee, Spay, Nith, Nesse, and Dingwells flood ingorging Lake, that confirmeth Porta salutis; being all of them where they return their tributs to their father Ocean portable; and as it were resting places for turmoiled seas and ships: And the principal Towns are Edenbrough, Perth, Glasgow, Dundie, Abirdene, St▪ Andrew's, Aire, Stirveling, Lithgow, Dumfreis, Innernes, Elgin, Minros, jedburgh, Hadington, Leith, etc. and for antiquity, old Lanerk, etc.  
So the most delicious soils of the Kingdom are these following: first, the bounds of Clyde, or Cliddisdale, between Lanerk and Dunbertan, distanced twenty six miles, and thence downward to Rossay that kisseth the divulgements of the River: the beginning whereof is at Arick● stone sixteen miles above Lanerk▪ whose course contendeth for threescore miles: All which, being the best mixed Country for Corns, Meeds, Pastorage, Woods, Parks, Orchards, Castles, Palaces, divers kinds of Coal, and earth-fewell▪ that our included Albion produceth: And may justly be surnamed the Paradise of Scotland: Besides, it is adorned on both borders along, with the greatest peers, and Nobility in the Kingdom▪ The Duke of Lennox▪ the Marquis of Hamilton, the Earl of Angus, the Earl of Argile, and the Earls of Glencarne, Wigton, and Abircorn.  
And for Lord Barons, Semple, Rosse, Blantyre, and Dalliell: The chiefest Gentry whereof are the Knights and Lairds of Luce, Skell murelie, Bl●khall, Greenock, Newwark, Houston, Pook-maxwell, Sir George Elpingston of Blythswood, Minto, Cambusnethen, Calderwood▪ the two Knights of Lieye, and Castel-hill, Sir james Lokharts elder & younger, Lamington, Westraw▪ his Majesty's Gentleman Sewer, Blakwood, Cobinton, Stanebyres, and Corhous▪ etc. All which in each degree, as they illuminat the soil with grandeur, so the soil reflecteth on them again with beauty, bounty, and riches.  
But lest I partial prove, because my breath  
First sprung from Lanerk, so my Christian faith;  
Where thence (O natal place) my soul did coil,  
Blood spirit, and sense, flesh, birth, life, love, and soil,  
I'll leave Clydes fragrant fields, resplendent banks,  
Bedecked with Silvans; stately beauteous ranks  
Of Pandedalian sparks; which lend the sight  
Of variable colours, best Nature's light;  
And close these silver shades, that dazzling bloom  
Mongst thickest Groves; with many braue-faced broom;  
Strict in the records of eternal fame,  
For sight, for gain, for birth, for noble name.  
And now the second soil for pleasure, is the platformd Carse of Gowry, twelve miles long (Wheat, Rye, Corns, Fruit yards, being its only commodity) which I may term for its levelled face, to be the Garden of Angus; yea, the Diamond-plot of Tay, or rather the youngest Sister of matchless Piedmont: The Inhabitants being only defective in affableness, and communicating courtesses of natural things, whence sprung this proverb, The kearlles of the Carse.  
The third, and beautiful soil, is the delectable planure of Murray, thirty miles long, and six in breadth: whose comely grounds, enriched with Corns, plantings, pastorage, stately dwellings, overfaced with a generous Octavian Gentry, and topped with a Noble Earl, its chiefest Patron; it may be furstyled, a second Lombardy, or pleasant Meaddow of the North.  
Neither may I (abandoning eye-pleasing grounds) seclude here that judaic bottom, reaching thirty miles 'twixt Perth and Min●os; involuing the half of Angus, within a fruitful, populous, and nobilitat planure, the heart whereof saluting Glames, kisseth Cowper: So likewise, as thrice divided Louthiane, is a girnell of grain, for forriane Nations; and Fife 'twixt Carraill and Largo, the Ceren trenches of a royal Camp, the encircling Coast a nest of Corporations; and Meandring Forth from tip, toed Snadoun, the prospicuous mirror for matchless Majesty: even so is melting Tweed, and weeping Tiviot, the Egyptian Strands, that irrign●t the fertile fields, which imbolster both bosoms, sending their bordering breath of daily necessaries to strengthen the life of Barwick.  
Now as for the Nobility and Gentry of the Kingdom; certainly, as they are generous, manly and full of courage; so are they courteous, discreet, learned Scholars, well read in best Histories, delicate linguists, the most part of them being brought up in France or Italy: That for a general complete worthiness, I never found their matches amongst the best people of forrane Nations: being also good house keepers, affable to strangers, and full of Hospitality.  
And in a word the Seas of Scotland, and the Isles abound plentifully in all kind of fishes, the Rivers are ingorged with Salmond, the high-landish mountains overclad with Firre-trees, infinite Deer, and all sorts of other Bestial, the Valleys full of pasture, and Wild fowl; the low laid plains enriched with beds of grain; justice all where administered, Laws obeyed, malefactors punished, Oppressors kerbed, the Clergy religious, the people sincere professors, & the Country peaceable to all men. The chiefest commodities whereof transported beyond sea, are these, Wheat, Corns, Hides, Skins, Tallow, Yearn Linen, Salt, Coale, Herrings, Salmond, Wool, Keilling Ling, 〈…〉. And last, and worst▪ all the Gold of the Kingdom is daily● Transported away with superfluous posting for Court. Whence they never return any thing, ●ave Spend all, End all, then farewell Fortune: So that numbers 〈…〉 and Gentry now, become with idle projects, down drawers of destruction, upon their own necks, their children, and their estates: and posting 〈◊〉 by dissolute courses, to enrich Strangers, 〈◊〉 themselves deservingly desolate, of Lands, Means, and Honesty for ever. Doing even with their former Virtue, long continuance, and memory of their noble Ancestors, as M. Knox did with our glorious Churches of Abbacies, and Monasteries (which were the greatest beauty of the kingdom,) knocking all down to desolation; leaving nought to be seen of admirable Edifices, but like to the Ruins of Troy, Tyrus, and Thebes, lumps of Walls, and heaps of stones.  
So do our ignoble Gallants (though nobly borne) swallow up the honour of their famous Predecessors, with posting foolery, boy winding Hor●es, cormandizing Gluttony, Lust, and vain Apparel; making a Transmigration of perpetuity to their present Belly, and Back. O lashivi●us e●ds: which I have condignly sifted, in my last Work Intitulated Scotland's welcome to King Charles: with all the abuses and grievances of the whole Kingdom besides.  
But now leaving Prodigals to their Purgat●riall P●stings, I come to Trace through Rosse, Sutherland, and Cathnes▪ So isles so abundant in all things, ●it to illustrate greatness, Resplendout Gentry, and succour Commons; that their fertile goodness far exceeding my expectation, and the affability of the better sort my deservings: being all of them the best, and most bountiful Christmas keepers (the greeks excepted) that ever I saw in the Christian World: Whose continual incorporate Feast one with another, beginning at Saint Andrew's day, never end till Shrovetide: which Ravished me, to behold, such great and daily cheer, familiar fellowship, and jovial cheerfulness, that me thought the whole Winter there, seemed to me, but the jubilee of one day. And now being arrived at Maij, to embark for Orknay, sight, time, and duty, command me to celebrate these following Lines, to gratify the kindness of that noble Lord, George Earl of Cathnes, with his Honourable Cousin, and first Accadent of his house, the Right worshipful Sir William Sinclair of Catholl Knight Liard of Maij.  
Sir! sighting now thyself, and Palace Fair,  
I find a novelty, and that most rare,  
The time though cold and stormy; sharper Sun,  
And far to Summer, scarce the Spring begun;  
Yet with good luck, in Februar, Saturn's prey  
Have I not sought, and found out fruitful May,  
Flanked with the Marine Coast, prospective stands,  
Right opposite, to the Orcade Isles and Lands:  
Where I for flowers, ingorged strong grapes of Spain,  
And liquored French, both Red and white amain:  
Which Palace doth contain, two foure-squard Courts,  
Graft with brave works where th' Art drawn pensile sports  
On Hals, high Chambers, Galleries, office, Bowers,  
Cells, Rooms, and Turrets, Platforms, stately Towers:  
Where greene-faced gardens, set at Flora's feet,  
Make Nature's beauty, quick Appelles greet:  
All which surveyed, at last the mid-most gate  
Designed to me the Arms of that great state,  
The Earls of Cathnes; to whose praise inbaged,  
My Muse must mount; and here's my pen incadged:  
First than their Arms, a Cross, did me produce  
Limbdlike a Scallet, traced with fleur du Luce;  
The Lion, red, and raged, two times divided  
From coin to coin, as Heralds have decided:  
The third joined stance denotes to me a Galley,  
That on their sea-rapt ●oes, dare make assailley:  
The fourth a gallant Ship, pu●t with taunt sail  
'Gainst them, their Ocean dare, or Coast assail:  
On whose bend Creist, a Pelican doth sit  
An Emblem, for like love, drawn wondrous fit:  
Who as she feeds her young with her heart blood  
Denotes these Lords, to theirs, like kind, like good:  
Whose best Supporters, guard both Sea and Land,  
Two stern drawn Griffons, in their strength to stand:  
Their Dictum bears this verdict, for Heaven's Ode:  
Ascribd this clause; commit thy work to God:  
O sacred Motto! Bishop Sinclairs' strain,  
Who turned ●iffes Lord; on Scotland's foes again:  
Lo here's the Arms of Cathnes, here's the Stock!  
On which branch'd●boughes rely, as on a Rock.  
But further in I foundlike Arms more patent;  
To kind Sir William and his line as latent;  
The Premier Accade, of that noble race  
Who for his virtue, may reclaim the place;  
Whose Arms, with tongue and buckle, now they make  
Fast cross sign tied, for a fair Leslyes' sake.  
The Lion hunts o'er Land, the Ship, the Sea,  
The ragged Cross can scale high walls we see;  
The wing-layd Galley with her factious oars  
Both Havens and Floods command and circling shores:  
The feathered Griffon flees. O grim limbed beast!  
That winging Sea and Land, upholds this Creist:  
But for the Pelicans, life sprung kind Story,  
Makes honour sing▪ Virtute, et Amore.  
Nay, not by blood, us she herself can do,  
But by her pattern, feeding younglings too;  
For which this Patroness Crescent stands so stay,  
That neither Spite▪ nor Tempest can shake Maij▪  
Whose Cutchions cleave so fast, to 〈…〉  
Portends to me, his Arms shall ever bide.  
So Murckles Arms are so, except the Rose  
Spread on the Cross, which Bothwels Arms disclose;  
Whose Vtetine blood he is, and present Brother▪  
To Cathnes Lord; all three sprung from one Mother.  
Bothwels prime Heretrix, plight to Hepburnes' Race.  
From whom Religious Murckles Rose I trace,  
This Country's instant Shrieve▪ whose Virtue raised  
His honoured worth his godly life more praised  
But now to rouse their Roots, and how they Sprung,  
See how Antiquity, Time's triumph Sung.  
This Scaller, worth them▪ bl●nch'd, for endeavour  
And Service done, to England's Conqueror;  
With whom from France they first to Britain came,  
Sprung from a Town St. Claire, now turned their name.  
Whose Predecessors, by their valorous hand,  
Won endless Fame, twice in the Holy-land:  
Where in that Christian War, their blood been lost,  
They loathed of Gaul, and sought our A●bion Coast.  
Themselves to Scotland came in Cammoires Reign  
With good Queen M●rgret, and her English train.  
The Ship from O●knay sailed, now ruled by Charles,  
Whereof they Sinclairs', long time, had been Earls.  
Whose Lord then William, was by Scotland's King,  
(Called Robert Second, First, whence Stewarts Spring),  
Sent with his second Son to France, crossed james  
Who eighteen years, lived Captivate at Thames.  
This Prisoner last turned King, called james the First,  
Who Sinclairs' Credit, kept in Honour's thirst:  
The Galley was the Badge of Cathnes Lords,  
As Malcome Cammoirs reign at length Records:  
Which was to Magnus given, for Service done,  
Against Mackbaith, usurper of his Crown.  
The Lion came, by an Heretrix to pass,  
By Marriage; whose Sire, was surnamed Dowglas.  
Where after him, the Sinclair now Record,  
Was Sheriff of Dumfreis ' and Nidsdales' Lord:  
Whose wife was Niece, to good King james the Third;  
Who for exchange, 'twixt Wicke and Southern Nidde  
Did Lands incambiat: whence this Cathnes Soil  
Stands fast for them, the rest, their Friends recoil.  
Then Circle-bounded Cathnes Cinclairs' ground,  
Which Pentland Firth invirones, Orknayes sound;  
Whose top is Dunkanes Bay, the Root the Ord;  
Long may it long stand fast for their true Lord:  
And as long too, Heavens grant what I require,  
The Race of Maij, may in that Stock aspire  
Till any Age may last, Time's glass be run,  
For Earth's last dark Eclipse, of no more Sun.  
Forsaking Cathnes, I embraced the trembling Surges (at Dungsby) of struggling Neptune, which ingorgeth Pentland or Pictland Firth with nine contrarious Tides: each Tide overthwarting another with repugnant courses, have such violent streams, and combustious waves, that if these dangerous Births be not rightly taken in passing over, the Passengers shall quickly lose sight of life and land for ever: yea, and one of these tides so forcible, at the back of Stromaij, that it will carry any Vessel back ward, in despite of the winds, the length of its rapinous current.  
This dreadful Firth is in breadth between the Continent of Cathnes, and the I'll of South Rannaldshaw in Orknay twelve miles: And I devote this credibly, in a part of the Northwest end of this Gulf, there is a certain place of sea, where these distracted tides make their rancountering Randevouze, that whirleth ever about; cutting in the middle circle a devalling hole, with which if either Ship or Boat shall happen to encroach, they must quickly either throw over some thing into it, as a Barrel, a piece of timber, and such like, or that fatal Euripus shall then suddenly become their swallowing Sepulchre. A custom which these bordering Cathenians and Orcadians have ever heretofore observed.  
Arrived at South Rannaldshaw an Isle of five miles long, and thwarting the I'll of Burray, I sighted Kirkwall, the Metropole of Pomonia, the main Land of Orknay, and the only Mistress of all the circumjacent Isles being thirty in number. The chiefest whereof (besides this tract of ground, in length twenty six, and broad five, six and seven miles) are the Isles of Sanda, Westra, and Stronza: Kirkwall itself is adorned with the stately and magnific Church of St. Magnus' built by the Danes, whose Signiory with the Isles lately it was: but indeed for the time present, more beautified with the godly life of a most venerable and religious Bishop Mr. George Grahame, whom now I may term (Sovereignty excepted) to be the Father of the Country's government, than an Ecclesiastic Prelate: The Inhabitants being left void of a Governor, or solid Patron, are just become like to a broken battle, a scattered people without a head: having but a Burges-shreive to administer justice, and he also an Alien to them, and a Resider in Edinburgh: So that in most differences, and questions of importance, the Plaintives are enforced to implore the Bishop for their judge, and he the adverse Party for redress.  
But the more remote p●rts of this ancient little Kingdom, as Zetland, and the adjacent Isles there; have found such a sting of de●ccular government within these few years, that these once happy Isles, Which long ago my feet traded over, are Metamorphosed in the Anatomy of succourless oppression, and the felicity of the Inhabitants reinuolued within the closet of a Cittadinean cluster.  
But now referring the whole particulars, and dividual descriptions of these Septentrion Iles, the main continent, and the Gigantic Hebridian Isles, to my aforesaid work to be published, intitulated Lithgows survey of Scotland, I send this general verdict to the world:  
Now having seen most part of thyself glore▪  
Great Kingdoms, Lands, stately Courts, rich Towns,  
Most gorgeous shows, pomp-glory decked renowns,  
Hearbagious fields, the Pelage-beating shore  
Propitious Princes, Prelates, potent Crowns:  
Smoke shadowed times, cursed Churls, Misers, Clowns,  
Impregnate Forts, devalling floods, and more  
Earth-gazing heights, Veil curling Plains in store:  
Court-rasing honours, thrown on envies frowns;  
Worme-vestured works, Enamild Arts, wits lore:  
Masse-marbled Mansions, Minerals coined o'er,  
State-superficiall shows, swift-glyding Moons:  
I ●oath thy sight, pale streams, stain watery eyen,  
Whose glorious shades vanish, no more seen.  
And now to conclude, as a Painter▪ may spoil a Picture, but not the face; so may some Stoical Reader misconstrue and misconceive some parts of this eye-set History, though not able to mar the truth of it: yet howsoever, here is the just relation of nineteen years' travels, perfited in three dear bought voyages: The general computation of which dimmensious spaces, in my goings, traversings, and returnings, through Kingdoms, Continents, and Lands, which my painful feet traced over (besides my passages of Seas and Rivers) amounteth to thirty six thousand and odd miles, which draweth near to twice the circumference of the whole Earth. And so farewell.  
FINIS.     

A Brief and summary Table of the chiefest things contained in this History.  

Part the first.  
THe first Plantation of Rome. page 11.  
The seven several Hills of Rome, and her seven several Rulers. pag. 12.  
Saint Katherine of Sienna. pag. 13.  
Pope Clement the eight crowned Duke of Ferrara. p. 14  
Tiber had almost overwhelmed Rome. p. 14.  
The Pilgrims Dinner at the Pope's Table. p. 15  
Rome's Antiquities, and Liberary. p. 16. 17  
The brazen Image of St. Peter, and the-Superstition of Papists. p. 18. 19  
The first Plantation of Italy. 22.  
A description of the Kingdom of Naples, and of the four Papal territories. p. 23. 24  
The Duke of Florence his patrimony. p. 25  
Rome's avarice, and ignorant devotion. p. 28  
Damnable leys sprung from Idolatrous Loretta. p. 28. 29  
The territories of Venice. p. 39  
The first plantation of Venice. p. 39  
The Venetians are sprung from the Romans. p. 41   

Part the second.  
THe antiquity of the Istrians. p. 44  
The Dalmatian live under subjection to the house of Austria. p. 46  
Ignorance and Sloth, the two mothers of poverty and misery. p. 48  
A monster borne in Lesina. p. 52  
The chief Isles in the gulf of Venice and of their Government. p. 53  
Of the Commonwealth of Ragusa, and the limits of the Kingdom of Slavonia. p. 55  
Four thousand Spaniards starved to death. p. 56  
George Castriot Surnamed Scanderbag. p. 57  
The invincible I'll of Corfu. p. 58  
Ulysses was borne at Ithaca. p. 60  
A dangerous Sea fight. p. 61  
Of the I'll Cephalonia. p. 63  
Zante enriched with Currans. p. 64  
Of the battle of Lepanto fought near to Morea. p. 65  
The soil of Peleponesus. p. 67  
Of scurrile Arcadia. p. 69  
Of the great Begle●beg of Greece. p. 73  
Decayed Athens now Salenos. p. 74  
A Mass-priest slain by a Captain in a Bordello. p. 76   

The third part.  
Candy of old had 100 Cities. p. 78  
The Governors and Garrisons of Crete, subject to Venice. p. 78  
An escape from murderers. p. 80  
A French Protestant by me released from a Galley p. 82  
The pleasant valley of Suda. p. 85  
Dedalus Labyrinth en Ida. p. 86  
Of the great town of Candy: p. 88  
Certain distances from Candy, to Europe, Asia, and Africa. p. 89  
A description of all the Isles Syclades, and Sporades. etc. 94  
The beautiful Dames of Sio, and rich attire. p. 102. 103  
The heads of 800. Florentines cut off in the Castle of Sio. p. 104  
A blind Cosmographer bred at Oxford. p. 108  
Of the pursuit of two Turkish Galleons. p. 110  
False testimonies of Vagabonding Greeks, dispersed abroad. p. 118  
A particular Description of Greece, and the I'll Nigroponty. p. 114. 115. 116  
An exact Relation of Troy, and her famous Antiquities. p. 120. 121 etc.  
My passing the Hellesp●nticke Sea, to Constantinople. p. 124. 125. etc.   

The fourth Part.  
Byzantium re-edified by Constantine. p. 133  
A French Poltroon, playing the Pallard, at the Gallata 137  
Fearful Pestilence, and Earthquakes. p. 138  
The Duke of Moldavia turned Turk, at Constantin●ple p. 143  
Circumcised Turks. p. 143  
Of the Turkish Churchmen and their times of Prayers. p. 144  
Babylon lately recovered by the Persians. p. 144  
Of the birth of Mahomet, & his falling Sickness. p. 145  
Mahomet's Laws. p. 147. 148  
The first titles of the Popes. p. 149  
Mahomet's promise broke. p. 151  
Of the Turks justice, and marriages. p. 153. 154  
Turks Lent, their opinion of Hell & Paradise. p. 157. 158  
Of the number of all our Christian Emperors in the East and West. p. 159  
Of the first beginning of the Turks. p. 160  
Of the great Turks yearly Revenues. p. 163  
Turks are no Scholars, yet great Politians. p. 164.  
Of the great Forces of the great Turk. p. 186.   

The fifth Part.  
Bajazet the Turkish Emperor taken by Tamberlan the Scythian King. p. 172  
The ancient City of Smyrna. p. 173  
Wealth is the mother of vice p. 174  
The Temple of Diana in Ephesus, sacked, burnt, and extinct. p. 175  
The I'll of Rhodes, and the Idol Colossus. p. 177  
Rhodes taken by Solyman the Magnificent. 1522. p. 176  
The Mausolacan tomb at Hericarnassus in Caria. p. 181  
The I'll of Cyprus' replanted. p. 182  
The Florentines attempt to conquer Cyprus. p. 187  
Tripoli and of Mount Lybanus. p. 190  
The Bishop of Eden on Lybanus. p. 197  
Turcomans accursed tites. p. 198  
The Bassa of Aleppo beheaded. p. 202  
Beershack on Euphrates, my furthest travels in the East. p. 200  
Damascus and the forces of the Bassa thereof. p. 206. 207  
The special towns of the Holy Land. p. 230, etc.  
My arrival in jerusalem. p. 232   

The sixth Part.  
The antiquity of jerusalem. p. 238  
The 4. hills of jerusalem, and the triumph of Titus. p. 239  
The old overthrows, and present garrison of jerusalem. p. 240.  
The jewish Kings, and Christian Kings of jerusalem. p. 242. 243.  
The Temple of Solomon thrice builded and destroyed. p. 251  
A dangerous voyage to jordan, and to Mare Mottuum, & jerico. p 252. 253. 254. etc.  
A Turpentine Rod, brought from jordan, and given to King james. p. 258  
The river jordan and the town of jerico hardby. p. 260  
The glorious Chapel of the Holy Grave. p. 266  
Knights of the holy grave. p. 272  
The burial place of the Kings and Queens of Israel. p. 274  
Salomon's fishponds, and Christ's Crub at Bethlem. p. 277. 278  
Lazarus tomb in Bithania, and of Olivet, and the Monuments there. p. 282. 283  
Grievous and fastidious travailing in the Deserts of Arabia. p. 291. 292. 293. 294. 295. 296. 297  
The nature of Camels, and Dromidors, and of the red Sea. p. 269   

The seaventh Part.  
Two yearly Seasons in reaping grain in Egypt. p. 301  
3 Germans death in Cairo. p. 302  
A favourable Turkish judgement. p. 303  
Of the great City of Grand-Caire. p. 305  
Of the length and bounds of Cayre. p. 306  
Of the Egyptian Decorements. p. 308  
Of the nature of the Egyptian Moors, Christian Coptics & their Religion. p. 309  
Of the Pyramids of Egypt. p. 311. 312. 313  
Of the true Knowledge of the flowing of the great River Nilus. p. 316. 317. 318  
The alteration of Egypt. p. 321  
Of the Revenues and Confines of Egypt. p. 322  
The four patriarchal seas. p. 324  
Of the fabulous Country of Cyrene. p. 325  
A joyful arrival in Malta. p. 329  
The nature of the Maltezes. p. 332  
A Moorish Brigantine taken. p. 333  
My arrival in Sicilia. p. 334  
An escape from Murder. p. 336  
The conclusion of my first Travails. p. 338   

The eight part:  
Of the necessary use and honour of Travails, for divers Respects. p. 341  
Weisle taken by Spineola. p. 244  
The Fabulous miracles of Colloine p. 245  
Of the Lake of Geneve, and of the River Rhone. p. 348  
The first beginning of the Dukes of Savoy, and of their state. p. 349  
Of the Liberty of Bandits in Calabria, and of the Country itself. p. 351. 352  
Greek Albanese fled to Calabria from Albana in Epire. p. 353.  
Two Sicilian Barons Killed at a combat, for a Ladies Love. p. 354  
Of the divers plantations of Carthage. p. 356  
The Marine Provinces 'twixt Tunneis and Algiers, and their names. p. 357  
An English Pirate, Captain▪ Waird. p. 358  
Of the towns of Tremizen, and of Algiers, and of their Territories. p. 359. 360  
Monsieur Chatteline a French Lapadator, and of our arrival at Fez. p. 367  
My Voyage from Fez to Lybia, and back to Tunneis p. 371. 372. 373. 376. 377. 378   

The ninth Part  
The hatching of Chickens, without their Mothers p. 380  
The formal oaths of the Knights of Malta, and their Order. p. 285  
The first plantation of Sycilia, and of their Laws now, and Living. p. 385. 386. 387. 388. 389. 390.  
Of Mount Aetna, and the last fire. p. 391. 392  
The Sicilian Tyrants. p. 394  
The Sicilian Customs. p. 395  
A boiling Fountain in Isha. p. 399  
The Antiquities of Pu●zolo. p. 400  
Of Sybillaes' Cave and dining Rome. p. 401  
The false and arrogant title of the Pope's pretended Authority. p. 406  
A crew of diabolical pope's. p▪ 409  
Ravenna the chief Sea of Romania. p. 411  
Vienna in Austria, and the special towns of Hungary p. 412. 413  
A Description of Transilvania. p. 416  
Polland is the nurse of Scotland's common younglings p. 421. 422   

The tenth part.  
Of the four Provinces of Ireland, and the Irish manners, and Living. p. 428. 429, etc.  
My departure from Ireland to France. p. 437  
Of the fantastic Foolery of the French. p. 438  
Biscai in Spain, a scurrile place. p. 440  
A Damnable delusion of a devilish Miracle of Saint Domingo. p. 441. 442  
The Kingdom of Portugal. p. 444  
Naked ambition conferred upon poor Toledo p. 447  
My unhappy arrival at Malaga. p. 450  
His Majesty's Letters & Seals misregarded. p. 453  
Their accusations of treason against me. p. 457. 458  
Of the manner of their Rack and cruel torturing of me thereupon p. 462. 463. 464. 465.  
The Sentence of their inquisition. p. 476  
Gods miraculous Mercy in discovering and Delivering of me. p. 480. 481.  
A brief description of Scotland, and the circumjacent Iles. p. 500   
FINIS.