A DECLARATION OF THE ESTATE OF CLOTHING NOW USED WITHIN THIS REALM OF ENGLAND. 1 The Royalty and benefit of Wool and Woollen Cloth. 2 The Condition of the Makers, being two sorts. 3 The antiquity and power of the Alneger. 4 The manner of search and Searchers, now used. 5 The several faults and abuses practised in Cloth. 6 The inconvenience and hurt by the abuses. 7 The remedy to be made by the Alnegers provision. With an Apology for the Alneger, showing the necessary use of his Office. Written by JOHN MAY, a deputy Alneger. LONDON Printed by ADAM ISLIP, An. Dom. 1613. TO THE MOST NOble Prince Lodowick Duke of Lenox, Earl of Darnely, Baron of Torbolton, Metheven, and Aubigny, Lord high admiral and Chamberlein of Scotland, Knight of the most noble order of the garter, and one of the King's Majesties most honourable privy council, and his highness Alneger general for the Realm of England and the Dominion of Wales. Being for a time restrained from that service, which I endeavoured to perform upon some occasion well known to your grace, My love and duty which no cause can obscure, presents itself with a subject of your government, often by your Grace's cost and consent examined by me; whose condition shall be truly revealed, leaving the censure thereof to your honourable and wise consideration, myself standing by to accuse it of many defects, who might be drawn back in bashful manner when I look into mine own impefection in wanting sufficiency to deliver this cause in the right nature, but knowing that truth seems beautiful although naked, and presuming on your honourable disposition, which is ever more ready to forgive than sharply to reprove harmless simplicity, emboldens me to go forward although in rude sort; wherein your grace may not epect an exquisite manner, but like a plain man's tale before a Judge, which will more savour of truth than eloquence, nor do I take the help of any other to prompt me, but only seven years experience, which I have employed in this subjects acquaintance, and now compiled the same into seven hours study, for one hours relation, and so made it my first fruits for this manner of publishing, which I humbly entreat to be shrouded under your gracious favour. The cause which procures me to this task is two-fold: First, (according to my duty) to acquaint your grace with the estate of the business: And secondly to stir your aid in the redress, your power being able to reform, and your place requiring it, still in all humbleness desiring to have all imperfections overpassed with your grace's favour, and not called into a strict examination. The widows mite was small, but acceptable in regard it was all she had; let not the ability, but the affection be called in question, which wisheth his power far greater, only to show it all in your grace's service to whom he is so perpetual and irrevocable bound unto, as all is too little he can perform, wishing your grace all worldly content, and after this life all heavenly joys, to guerdon your happy and honourable deeds. Your Grace's most humble and devoted servant. JOHN MAY. To the courteous Reader. GEntle Reader, I must confess that my over-daring attempt, deserves a disgraceful check, who like Icarus, with waxed wings hath soared so high, but that the sun beams have been favourable, my downfall might be as sodains: this precedent is none of my profession, and being so far unfit intent not to make it my practise. An extraordinary cause compels me to this work, wherein you must expect an explanation by an Alneger and not by an Orator: and as I most desire the good opinion of the best, who do always censure well, so I least regard the taunts of the worse sort, who commonly carp at all. If amongst these rude weeds, you can gather any wholesome herbs to serve your use I shall then gain what I most sought for. I am the more encouraged to adventure because this vessel is bound to that port, where yet no other hath been before me with like lading, whose better beautified wares had spoiled my market: yet have I traveled as much to collect, and been as careful in the choice of this freight as any whatsoever: and imagine that he which in this, trade's farther, shall deal for a doubtful gain, being commodity not vendible for all, but rather utterly rejected by some, yet good hope may draw them on, in regard that the same sort, or the least company and worst condition, who knoweth not that from one flower the Bee draws honey and the Spider poison, and that the content of the good, is the contempt of the evil: Therefore my resolution is set, hap how it will, if the voyage miscarry I am not the first whom hope hath deluded, but will strive to rest satisfied howsoever. And so I take my leave. Yours to his power, JOHN MAY. THE ROYALTY and benefit of Wool and Woollen Cloth. CHAPTER I. THE antiquity of Wool within this Kingdom hath been, beyond the memory of man, so highly respected for those many benefits therein, that a customable use hath always been observed to make it the seat of our wise learned judges in the sight of our noble Peers, within the place where all wholesome laws are established for the good government of this kingdom, The Parliament house. to imprint the memory of this worthy commodity within the minds of those firm Supporters and chief Rulers of the Land, who ever from time to time have with greatest care provided for the maintenance thereof, as a blessing sent from Almighty God upon this nation more than all the people in the world, whose mercy in preservation of those cattle is shown by the suppression of ravening Wolves and devouring beasts (enemies to those harmless and unresisting flocks) which other countries, to their great damage, do harbour unremedilesse: so that no kingdom whatsoever can speak so happily of this benefit as this realm, who findeth it the rich man's increase, and the poor man's comfort, in such an excellent nature, the quantity so much as serveth all nations in the world, and the quality so good, as is chiefly desired of all, working a general fame, and most profitable traffic to this Land, that it may be rightly called, The English India. The depth of benefit in this royal commodity, was a long time obscured within this kingdom through ignorance and negligence of our people in those days, who suffered the transportation thereof unto a more ingenious nation, which made far greater benefit by their labour, than those whom God had freely sent it unto: For when it was converted from the sheep's back, fit for man's back, it was returned by them to this realm at a triple rate, only increased by their industry; which shameful course brought great scandal of our idleness: Like men that would lay no hand to the plough, and women that would set no hand on the wheel, deserving the censure of wise Solomon, He that would not labour should not eat. But lest I should ●●nne too far in the judgement hereof, I do call both their ignorance and negligence in question not knowing which was greater; but rather impute it to their ignorance, which appeared by the remedy procured by divers provident and worthy kings, who drew divers skilful workmen out of those foreign parts, to direct these unskilful people, which in short time grew perfect in this mystery, and hath ever sithence so mightily increased, that it is at this instant the glory of our traffic, and maintenance of our poor, many hundred thousands depending wholly on the same; chief pillar to our Prince's revenue, the life of our Merchant, the living of our Clothier, and the means of sustenance to most trades and poor, whose bread is gained by these employments. The excellent quality of wool is like most fertile ground that will bear all fruits, affording the most ingenious wits to work upon his nature, so that daily new devices are yielded thereby to every inventor. It affords raiment, nay rich robes for the greatest Princes, and also warm clothing for the meanest personages, being wrought to the height, in worth it makes rich silk seem foreign rags; and in ordinary manner it serveth the necessity and use of all: so that the excrement of the worm may not compare with the fleece of the sheep, although the labour and industry of man makes it the height of pride, yet in riches, comeliness, & profitable wearing it comes far short of a perfect fine cloth, which although all cannot be so, yet all serveth the necessary use of all sorts, from the Prince to the poor, and no part unprofitable or deceitful in itself, but often abused by the wicked practices of deceitful people, as shall be hereafter described, wishing a due respect of the commodity, and care to continue the credit thereof. CHAP. II. The condition of the Makers, being two sorts. WHen the use of Clothing was planted here, some in all parts of the Realm undertook the profession: The number was but small for a long time, but found such good success on their labours, as they mightily increased in fame and riches, chief comforters to the aged, and trainers up of youth, their houses frequented like King's Courts, their tables replenished like feasts, their hospitality bountiful, and in all these their carriage plain and honest, yet with such plenty and content, that royal Kings have been highly pleased with their entertainment. Then was true dealing held in great estimation, and deceit hatefully loathed. These men commonly made their recourse to London weekly, who might have been strangers one to another in regard of their distance in dwelling, yet proved brethren by reason of their profession. Their conference of meeting was to uphold their credits by truth, & their care how to suppress falsehood, lest he should steal into their trades. Happiest was he that could win most commendation by desert; so that their marks made their markets, and their merchants their suitors to hold on their custom. Whilst this course continued the trade flourished, and God's blessing abounded on all dealers therein: But corrupting time (more apt in stooping to vice than mounting to virtue) not only infected some of this Fraternity with the knowledge of deceit, but also stirred other intruders in this trade, who greedy of such apparent gain, obtained by the well deservers, usurped the name of Clothiers, without the knowledge of the true course, but well studied in fraud, which practise they intended should supply their want of knowledge, to equal that gain formerly obtained, more respecting their present profit than all future good, nor making conscience of the means, so they possessed the matter. This viperous sort doth too much increase in these days, the only breeders of all enormities in this trade & Commonwealth, & like caterpillars destroy the fruits of the earth, or like drones which wast the honey of the labouring Bee; whose mischief must be prevented, or else in short time all benefits herein will be made frustrate. But more of these abusers when their abuses shallbe in question: only it may be said of Clothiers, as of the tongues which Aesop bought, the worst meat and the best; so of the good Clothier and the bad: how lamentable thing it is, that the private gain of one should be the prejudice of thousands: where truth and equity decays the people soon perish, and pity it were but the law should be a sharp bridle to curb such disordered men. If lawless liberty were allowable we should not differ from beasts, nor distinguish good from bad: our reason and religion leads us to better knowledge, and daily experience of God's favour towards truth should draw us to embrace it. We have a precedent within this Realm to lead us to a true course from that nation which were our first tutors to the trade, who now make a commodity among us of our Wools; which, by reason of their slightness and small value, might be esteemed unworthy of wearing, yet by their good observation in making, searching, and sealing, it is so upheld and maintained, that it is more vendible than any cloth we make, and so far void of deceit, that any man, although unskilful, may buy it without prejudice or loss. Look into their lives and conditions, you shall find them religious towards God, dutiful to our Prince, loving one towards another, and harmless to all men, only enemies to fraud and idleness, which they do not only hate in others, but punish severely in themselves. They keep together, and disperse not in many places, to the end one government shall rule them; but in two places within this Realm do they make their congregations, Sandwich and Colchester. where it were a wonder to behold, so many people to maintain themselves on so flight a trade, yet never a beggar amongst them. They have no Statute Law to bind them, but orders amongst themselves, which are so duly executed, without partiality, that their rich are not favoured, nor their poor oppressed. Their search in that commodity is threefold, one from the Loom, one from the milling, or thickening, and one from the dressing; and where offence is made, there punishment is sure. What would these people do if they had the making & ordering of our rich clothes of great value, that can bring such slight ware in that estimation? But as we are far from inventing good, so are we unapt to imitate it, though never so plainly taught us before our eyes. It hath been seen that a foreign cloth being made, and not falling out to the full goodness intended, the maker hath affixed a piece of silver to that piece, of such value as should countervail the want of worth: But we are more ready in greedy manner to take away from a cloth, when it is too bad before. Now as herein the Clothier and maker is taxed, the Merchants and buyer cannot escape untouched; For as there are good of both sorts (whose number are too few) so there are extreme bad (which, without amendment, might be well spared): There is no more difference between a bad Clothier and a bad Merchant, than between a thief and his receiver; for as the one commits unlawful crimes, the other maintains it by concealments, nay more, procures him thereunto. Many Merchants are of that disposition, that they more respect their present gain than the good of all others, looking upon the cheapness, and not on the goodness of what they buy; casting upon their gain of money, and not on their gain of credit, whereas both might easily be obtained. Let a Clothier have a new trick of deceit, contrary to law, and prejudicial to the general good, if it may be a particular profit, although not durable, that man shallbe sure of entertainment: if he fear discovery, or to be caught by the law, these Merchants have infinite devices to make it walk invisible; if Argus eyes were watchful over them, yet have they mists to blind them all: But God, who is the upholder of truth, will one day bring these hidden mischiefs to light, and turn this wicked gain to shame and loss. CAP. 3. The antiquity of the Alneger with his power. BEfore the making of Cloth within this Land, the Alneger was ordained, who exercised that office upon all coming from foreign parts, to measure and try them where they were put on land. The enterpretation of his name Alneger shows the nature of his office as only measurer appointed. 2. Ed. 3, cap. 14. For a long time his authority was carried by proclamation, before any Parliament was holden: his fee was not then given him, but allowance from the Lord Treasurer and Barons of Exchequer, according to his pains and care: his charge was to see all clothes of assize marked, and those not of assize and defective, to be taken into his hands for the King, 2. Ed. 3. cap. 14. although in the presence of any Mayor, bailiff, or other magistrate, wherein his credit and trust reposed by the King was explained. When the making of those Clothes were drawn hither, and daily increased, the King found great loss in his customs; for that the wools of those Clothes being before transported, did yield much custom, and the like answered upon return of the Cloth, which double benefit to the king was lost, although it brought much good to the common wealth by the subjects employment. Upon due consideration hereof, a subsidy was granted unto the king and his successors upon all Clothes made within the Realm, four pence upon every cloth, and two pence on every half Cloth: beside, a Subsidy upon all grain colours, 27. E. 3. cap. 14. as appeareth by that Statute at large: the collection whereof was appointed to the Alneger, as the most fittest man for it, being the kings only officer for those affairs: at which times he had also his fee of a halfpenny on every Cloth given him, with a reservation of all his former power and charge both for the king and reformation of abuses. Now it is to be considered what value a halfpenny was in those days, and what the service was to be performed for it: All the pains he took, was but to cast a Line of seven yards four times over the Cloth in length, and to measure the breadth then appointed, which he continued a long time: then were the faults but few, and easily-supprest; but in time grew like Hydra's heads, in cutting off one, many sprung up in the stead, that the defects numbered so fast upon him, as put him to endless trouble. And in regard his place stood upon two distinct offices, the one to collect the Susidie, wherein was no farthing charge; the other was the executing of the Alnage, which tied him by great penalties to perform truly: he finding the pains so much to make reformation in so many defects, and of such diversities, with his fee too small to countervail his danger and trouble, did voluntarily forego the execution of his office, and only betook himself to the collection of the Subsidy: and having two Seals appointed him severally, one with the king's arms for the Subsidy, the other with the true content and search for the Alnage, he would afterward only set on the king's seal, leaving his search and fee, to be freed of his prejudice; which neglect of his gave way to those which practised those deceits, and in time grew to that height, as the whole common wealth felt the smart thereof; and forced all sorts appertaining to those trades to seek for redress, and to make severe Laws for the punishment of those deceits, appointing searchers and overseers for that purpose, with divers orders concerning the same; and perceiving that the small fee of the Alneger caused him to neglect the search, the fee was augmented from a halfpenny to two pence, and so for a time carefully executed: but the former mischief, which caused the provision of those Laws and orders, in short time crept in again, more dangerous, and the office of search worse executed with the fee of two pence than before with the Alnegers farthing: better it were such search should be forborn, than so faslly performed, nor will it ever be truly executed but by the Alneger, who hath ever brought all questions and punishment upon all faults yet brought to light. The Alneger is fittest for that place considering his credit and trust with the King's Seal, which he is made Chancellor of for that purpose, and that all the imputation of false Cloth and false sealing is laid upon it; so that both our nation and our Kings imperial arms are scandalised in all foreign parts. How careful have former Kings been to have the Alneger sufficient in all points: 1. R. 3. cap. 8. First to be expert in knowledge, then sufficient in wealth, and that no Alneger of any County or City should be less worth than an hundred pounds, if he were of such value, to the King; and in those days his credit was little inferior to most of the justices where he abode: Then had he his privilege to make his accounts but once a year, whatsoever was in his hands: And so favoured, to pass those accounts in his highness Exchequer, without charge or fee: beside he must be the King's natural subject, no alien to be permitted thereunto. This was intended for those that did execute the place: but for those which should receive the revenue and profits royal, choice hath been made of such, as appears upon records, that the Queen of this Realm and the duke of Buckingham hath been interessed therein for some part of the Kingdom. And in every Parliament where statutes were ordained, the Alnegers power and privilege still preserved: this charge, credit, trust, and provision must of force draw his care beyond those slight searchers of small credit: But the offenders and those which practise deceit, think the Alneger too busy in his place, seeking to suppress, his power by all means they can. There was of late years a notorious felon within this realm, who having committed many unlawful outrages, and desirous to continue so, would have the Lord chief justice bound to the peace, offering to take his oath that he did not only seek to deprive him of his means of living but also sought his life; so if they could bind the Alneger to the peace, they could make a trade of falsehood without controlment: But by too much sufferance of this hurt, the common wealth is wounded, the best sort seeking means to heal it, but they like gald-backe jades, kick at those which come to cure them. The golden snuffers of the law is put into the Alnegers hand, who must make use of them, and howsoever they snuff, he will snuff too, and clear the light which shall show them the way to truth. In this he shall stir up the sting of envious tongues whose venom cannot hurt him, but procure the prayers of the best which shall receive comfort thereby. The most reverent Divine, if he touch the fins of the wicked to the quick, shall sooner move them to railing than to reformation, but the malice of evil people is not to be regarded. Here might question be made, wherefore the Alneger should now stir more than of late times: It was his usual course, to take his money for the seal and so to be quiet: Why should he trouble himself with such labour that will breed envy to him, and vexation to others. It must be answered that although he hath long time lain a sleep, the necessity of the time, and loud clamours of abuses hath awaked him. His charge and duty to the office, his service to the King, his maintenance of the trade that must maintain him, and benefit to the common wealth, sets him on foot to perform that which no other can do: wherein he will ay me at two things, the general good, and his private profit. Since his forbearance much power and profit hath been drawn from him by usurpation, which he may easily recover, as branches plucked from his body. The measuring of silk, linen, yea and of some sorts of cloth, are made petty offices, and held by those which have no right thereunto. Every inferior Magistrate will take upon him to establish offices, which shall contradict the appointment of the King and his Laws. Who is the measurer of all saleable Clothes, or all commodities measurable, but only he? not only appointed by several Statutes, but also confirmed by the kings grant by letters patents. It is appointed an office at the common Law, 1● I. 2. by grant from the king: And that the Warden of the Alnage should deliver yearly to the Lord Treasurour the estreats of his office, containing all the faults he found of Clothes throughout the Realm: The same King did also grant the Alnage of all Canvas and linen cloth to Tho. Dewight, in the 1. year of his reign, and afterward in the fourteenth year of his reign to one Symond of Darlington, and also another patent for the Alnage of all manner of outlandish Cloth, to one john Griffen in the seventeenth year of his reign, as may appear upon the several records in the Tower of London. If the Alneger did but a while forbear his collection of the subsidy also, some forged authority would lay claim to that too; but sufferance cannot suppress right, the one office being as truly due as the other, 25. E. 3. cap. 1. and so many Laws to confirm it, which also binds him upon oath to perform it: who shall then deny or contend against him when he shall claim his right and perform his place? As he may receive both subsidy and alnage upon all sorts of woollen commodities, so may he receive the alnage fee upon all other sorts of Cloth and commodities measurable and saleable, from the finest silk to the coarsest hemp: much of that due is taken in some places from him, which must give way when he please to take place: nor shall he need much difficulty to decide that right being so apparent & plain in his behalf: at all times when question hath been made of his right or power, the leaned judges of this land have confirmed the same, as appeareth by many several decrees. The ancient laws made for alnage causes, may fitly be compared to the will & testament of deceased kings, who bequeathed to their subjects the benefit of justice and upright dealing, wherein the Alneger is made sole executor: and although by some later laws there hath been searchers appointed as overseers to assist the Alneger in the better performance of this will, they like idle and careless ministers, according to the course of such overseers put in trust, have superficially passed over that charge to no purpose, but rather looking after their legacy of two pence on a cloth: the which the Alneger must abridge them of as unworthy by their negligence to receive it, and he himself take upon him to see the will performed, being held thereunto by three principal reasons: First, the trust from the King with his seal, and collection of his Subsidies, Fines, and Forfeitures: Secondly, his charge not to set on that seal but upon perfect and sizable cloth, and to take the contrary into his hands for the king's use: Thirdly, his danger of the penalty, if he perform not this charge, which are great fines, and the loss of his place: So he must be the man to give unto the subject length, breadth, weight, and goodness, or else to punish the offendor, and give the buyer knowledge of the fault; For want hereof he is most taxed and blamed on all parts, not without just cause, for where should this benefit be receined, but from him being authorized, and appointed for the same. To conclude, his service truly performed herein would prove a large fountain of good, to his small drop of benefit. CHAP. 4. The manner of search and searchers now used. THe Law hath effectually provided for the search in all points, that in every place where cloth is made and fold, two, four, six, or eight shall be appointed for the search thereof, that it be arcording to law. Those searchers to be able and sufficient in wealth and knowledge, that they shall be sworn to do it uprightly? and bound in forty pounds a piece, not to neglect it, that they shall perform that search, once in every month at the least, and enter into the houses, shops, or other places which harbour any cloth, there to feeke for faulty cloth which might otherwise be concealed or hidden from them, and great penalty laid on those which shall resist or deny any of them. For those clothes which are sealed by them, the law directs their order, appointing the several penalties on every fault, and how the same shall be disposed. If the Magistrates or justices of any place neglect the choice of such searchers, than a penalty is laid on them for that default: But this search and orders are grossly abused in several kinds. In many places are no searchers at all appointed: In some places the Clothiers and makers keep a searched seal of their own, to set on what they please: but in most places those searchers chosen are unsufficient in knowledge to perform their place, or in ability to answer the penalties; if they be of knowledge, then are they such which be servants, or workmen to those Clothiers or makers which are the offenders, whom they dare not punish nor offend: and to avoid their breach of oath, will send boys or other like people to perform their place, and set on the seal; else will they lend that seal to every one which demands it, by which means they save their oaths in seeing no faults, and for their bonds they provide for the safety of them, by a combination between the Clothiers & themselves, none can challenge them, but those which will keep their counsel; when any choice is to be made, then are the clothiers suitors to the justices for such men as they nominate, which are according to their own hearts, which request of theirs is seldom denied: So there are often chosen Tailors, glovers, tanner's, butchers, smiths, or such like, which have no judgement at all in Cloth, nor the place. If malefactors of the Law might choose their judge and jury, they would seldom be cast. The best search made by the searchers in any place, is but to cast the Clothes into scales to see if they be weight or no, which if any do want, the clothier supplies that want with stones, bricks, lead, leaden weights, and other ponderous things which they convey into light cloth to make it hold weight, which is easily done in regard those brought to their beam, are always made up hard with tacking and binding, that without opening, those deceits cannot be found, which they never do, yet aught to see the cloth quite through from end to end, and to notify the faults upon the seal. If by chance a fault appears unto them which they cannot avoid, seeing, for they strive to let all pass in such sort as their knowledge should not be charged then do they punish the clothier for that fault, as the Friar whipped the Nun with a Fox tail, but there is not one fault amongst a thousand called in question. Again, if question be made in some places, then doth the Major there take upon him more than the Lord Treasurer, to determine the cause, claiming a right unto all these sorf. due to them, and so as it were hold an exchequer in every petty town: in other places, the just. of Peace decide those causes at their quarter sessions, and so complaints passed over according as the offenders make friends with them. To maintain this authority, they take hold o● the statute of 39 El. c. 20. But that branch is repealed by 4. jac. cap. 2. yet still by them put in practice. One principal thing is to be considered, That so many thousands of defective made within this realm, as the smart thereof is too truly found, yet are there none presented in the king's Majesty's Exchequer, but the abuses still maintained, the common wealth wronged, the king deprived of his benefit, and the offenders escape without punishment, all this is certain, and well known to all men. CHAP. 5. The several faults and abuses practised in Cloth. IN discovering of deceit, some cavilling humour may object, it will rather serve for instruction to farther practise than prevento future harm. It is answered, that those practitioners in these abuses are so deeply experienced therein, being in common use of them, as all other wits can give them no more direction. The purpose here intended, is to unmask the face of falsehood: which seems that it is not, and to give knowledge thereof to those that are wronged. The art of Coney-catching was a secret Mystery, until a book of discovery came forth, which could not teach them who were perfect in their lesson without book, but cause the simple to see, and the wisest to shun their subtle snares provided to catch their gulls. The cause here handled is nothing inferior to theirs in cunning, but much more beyond them in prejudice, by the many more in number which feel the smart thereof; wishing this brief relation might so effectually reveal the deceits, as it might publicly be known aswell no those which endure the damage as them which commit the crimes: and although every particular fault cannot be here described, by reason of their numbers (which were too tedious) yet the principals shall be touched upon which the rest depend: he that seethe a tree may easily view the body but hardly number the leaves, but the tree being felled the leaves soon die. Herewithal a difference must be noted between the opinion of some people, and the true intent of the law. There are many sorts of cloth or stuffs lately invented, which have got new god fathers to name them in fantastical fashion, that they which wear them, know not how to name them, which are generally called new drapery, what hold can the law take of them? In the first law, the cloth ray was understood and coloured clothes what sizes they should contain in length and breadth; since that time provision made by laws, for broad clothes, kerseys, dozen, penistones, cottons, and such like to contain length, breadth, and weight appointed: but these new devices are out of the reach of those laws, and free to be made as it shall please the maker without contradiction. To answer the same, the briginall and ground is to be understood, the wool pays subsidy, and the leugth of every piece allows alnage, and although the converting of wools (whose condition yields to divers inventions) be altered from clothes to stuffs, shall the king lose his subsidy, or the Alneger his see? no, it was long time since ordained by statute, that all sorts of clothes, although not of assize, should pay subsidy and alnage. And now of late years, the said new devices are grown to that quantity as the old sort of clothing is much impaired, and that greatly increased, which is not to be discommended, in regard it vents our wools, and employeth our people. But if government and orders were not provided to maintain it, in short time we should find that as the same had eaten out the ancient drapery; so falsehood would ruin that, and leave the people without employment. Why should there be a distinguishment between old drapery and new, when the law allows but one drapery: As the condition of water may be conveyed divers ways by rivers, springs, conduits, wells, pumps, fountains, pipes, ponds, and a number of several means, yet no alteration of the nature thereof; so may wools be converted into divers properties: but yet the end and purpose of the same, to serve man's use and wearing as broadcloth and ancient cloth did. If we should have a new law for every new name of stuff now made and named, the king must keep a perpetual Parliament to ordain for them. There was of late a mad brained fellow which came by a company of workmen that were digging up of a well to plant a pump in the place; he demanded who set them a work, they answered the parson, churchwardens, and masters of the parish; he replied again they understood not themselves, for thereby they should be forced to alter their church book, wherein it was written, Praise God all ye springs and wells, and now it must be Praise God all ye springs and pumps; which frivolous and vain question of his, may be compared to their exception, which will go no farther than the word of the law, and never look to the true intent of the same. 39 El. cap. 20. A Statute was lately made concerning the abuses of clothes, wherein orders were provided, that all sorts of clothes should be truly searched, and their just contents of length and weight set upon every piece with the word searched, upon pain of forfeiture. This law intended the general good and reformation of all: yet in regard there was but two counties nominated, or a certain circuit expressed which did before time most offend in those points; all offenders in other places would stop that law from going any farther. 43. El. cap. 10. Wherefore the next Parliament following understanding that law to concern the general good, as well as unto the former limitation, did make the same act to respectively extend unto all and singular woollen broad clothes, half clothes, Kerseys, Cottons, Dozen, Penistones, Frizes, Rugs, and all other woollen clothes of what nature, kind, or name soever they be, or shall be made, and to be made within this Realm to be viewed, sealed, searched, and subjecteth, to penalties, in such like manner and form and to such purpose and intents, respectively as was limited to those clothes provided for in the former law, now whether can those new draperies fly to shroud themselves from the reach of this law, theit new names cannot help them; if they be called by any name, the law takes hold of them, or of any nature to serve any purpose the law takes hold of them, they can then plead no privilege to free them from this law and orders, but in yielding obedience with true observance find peace and happiness. The cause of this relation is to show that some of these old deceits are practised in the new devised stuff, wherefore as needful to be reform as the other; & so proceed thereunto. wools being an excellent commodity of itself, and naturally without deceit, is commonly abused by mingling in divers kinds, Deceit in mingling of wools sometime fleece wools, fell wool, and lambs wool which are contrary one to an other are put together, which makes the cloth uneven, cockley, pursy, bawdy, and rewey. Then the mingling of fine floxe with long wools yet course, which being carded together doth hold spinning and working but most deceitful in use and wearing. The use of short thrums is likewise so ordered, which they take and shred into short length, and then lay it in steep in strong lie or liquor which openeth the threads into wool again, then carded it with other wool which is worse than the flox by making more uneven in the spinning. This abuse hath been put in practise so intolerable, that it is certainly known clothes have been made with two parts, floxe and thrums, and but one part in wool; which hath seemed good to the eye, but in the wearing such weak strength as would not endure a fourth part of time like the perfect cloth. If any make question, whether those flox, thrums, or sorts of wool should be cast away or not put to use: It is known that several sorts of commodities are appointed wherein they may be lawfully put to use, and very vendible; but they with wicked purpose convert them to great gain, but greater hurt, worse than casting dross into fine gold, which is easily found by the baseness, and may be purified again, but this abuse is like a poison not found till past cure. Deceits in the weaning. The long thrums left of broadcloth which cannot be wrought to that shortness of narrow , those are cunningly knit together & mingled with other yarn of better nature, making the one help out the other, for the ease of workmanship: the inconvenience whereof is very hurtful, for by reason of the many knots in such clothes, which after the scouring are most of them hurled out, and afterwards shut up again by the mill; but not so helped, but covered for a time, when this cloth comes to wearing, in short time proves full of holles and unserviceable in wearing. In slaying of their warps they will cast the yarn to prove fine about a foot broad by the lists, which is so far as commonly the merchant or buyer looks into them, nor can they having the clothes plighted and bound together with threads, which will suffer no farther search into them, unless they should cut them up, which is seldom or never done, the rest of the cloth wrapped through with a far courser yarn very deceivably. A common thing it is for the weaver to cover a course warp with a fine woof, the warp being spon hard and small, and the woof soft and round to cover the warp from sight, which in the working may somewhat appear, but in the wearing thoroughly found, that is a daily practise especially on clothes sold rough. Besides they have a practise in their woof to shut in a fine woof at both ends of their cloth, which serveth for a muster to show, but all the rest of the cloth far worse; the same ends also are better driven in the loom with better workmanship. Deceits in the Mill. When a cloth made with flox or thrums comes to the mill, who would be a true searcher, and lay the fault open, if their cunning prevented it not? but they preserve such cloth by extraordinary means with tallow, pigs dung, and urine which keeps ni the flox, and suffereth the thicking. If a cloth prove slender, and will not thick kindly in the mill by reason of his defects, then have they medicine to help it with oatmeal and such like, which will remain in the cloth and make it seem fast and thick in the hand, until it come to the dressing, where all that stopping vanisheth, leaving it to shame by the true fight of his substance. When a cloth wanteth some of his substance or allowance in yarn, which would soon be found being clean scoured, thicked, and dried, they will not scour the same cloth clean, but leave a bad substance of oil and seam in it, thicking it up in the same filth, which proveth noisome in use and wearing. Deceits in man king up of clothes. Whereas the use of tenters is altogether forbidden upon rough clothes with great penalties thereupon; yet in those countries where those rough clothes are made and so to be sold many tenters are erected and used upon such clothes as should be left in that order, as it cometh out of the mill, yet by reason of the aforesaid abuses in yarn and weaving, the mill leaves them shameful in cockells, bawds, pursy, narrower in some places than other, which they by colour to even out, do often strain beyond the limitation allowed for dressed in deceivable manner. When such clothes have been so strained, the tenter hooks leave an evident mark upon them alongst the lists, and at both ends, which would plainly tell where they had been, and how used; but they have a trick to hide that fault, for with a wet cloth and a hot Iron, they over run those lists and ends which shutteth up the marks or tongues of the tenter, as that shall tell no tales. If the cloth by the same tentring do prove hollow in hand, then do they also over run the same cloth with that hot Iron about a span deep from the lists, for the binding of the cloth up with threads keeps it from farther sight, which devise makes the cloth feel close in hand in that place, howsoever the rest fall out. Those clothes which fall out much too light they will let hang abroad in an evening, sometime all night, to receive the dew, or else to spout warm water into it, which will make it weigh heavier by eight pounds, beside, to feel more kindly in hand: this is so cunningly done that it is hardly to be perceived, yet many of them so overdone therewith as they are returned again from beyond the seas rotten with the same usage. Deceits in dressing. When a cloth which is made up with flox or thrums, that it is too tender to endure due workmanship, those clothes shall be rowed dry, and wrought with solace and soft liquor to preserve the flox from the force of the tessel, yet make it rise with a ground to work upon in shearing. In the tentring of cloth, which is allowed to strain but half a quarter in breath, and a yard in length upon a whole broadcloth: It is known that divers is strained a quarter and a half in breadth, and five yards in length, so that a cloth strained to thirty yards, being wet again hath lost above a third part in length and breadth. And a kersey allowed to be strained one nail in breadth, and half a yard in length and no more: It hath been known that a Devon-shire kersey of twelve yards hath been strained a quarter of a yard in breadth and three yards in length: so that in breadth and length the tentors lends them the one half of the piece, which as soon as it comes to water flies away invisible to his own country, but never to be found again. The like abuse in other sorts of kersey and narrow clothes. If a cloth by much milling is run in, which may cause them more labour to bring unto the length and breadth they appoint to, then will they use warm water in the tentring thereof, but commonly the warmth of the sun which they always observe will make a cloth yield any way in stretching: so they do make the glorious sun (which God hath sent for comfort to the world) to be accessary to their vild abuse, in giving them such help: So do the wicked often turn God's best blessings into the worst uses. In the finishing of their work of rowing and shearing they will use a deceit with flox of the same colour of the cloth, which they can shear as small as dust, which mixed with solace, they spread upon the musters, and where the cloth may be seen, which makes it seem much finer than it is, and feel more substantial in hand; but the same cloth lying a while after the dressing, the solace drieth up, and then the same flox flieth away leaning the cloth in his own nature again. Colours. For the false dying of colours both in wools, cloth, and stuffs, with the use of logwood, it is intollerarable, and too common, to the great discredit of the thing so died. The ground of good colours is substantial woading, without which divers colours cannot be perfectly made, as blacks, russets, tawnyes, purples, greene's, and such like, whereof many of them are made without foundation of woad, it appeareth beautiful and pleasing to the eye, but in use and wearing prove like false painting and not true dying: Some colours have a slight ground of woad, but far too weak for the depth of that colour it bears, yet can set up the woad mark, or woad rose, which is upon the piece at a far richer depth than the piece is woaded throughout: nay farther, some can set on a woadmarke upon a cloth with a little Indigo which hath no woad at all on the piece: but herein the dyer's of London do best observe a true course in setting a woaded seal upon woaded colours, which is a truer testimony than the woad rose or mark so many ways abused, yet is not the use of that seal effectually performed in this kind. There is five especial degrees in woading that is to say a huling, a plounket, a watchet, anazur, & a blue, every one of these exceeding each other in value, yet every one of them fit for some colours: Now if these degrees were truly expressed on the woaded seal, than might the buyer know the truth of each colour, and cause a reformation of that intolerable abuse, which doth daily cause such numbers of our and stuffs, to be carried out of the realm to be dressed and died, to the great prejudice of many of the King's majesties subjects which might be well maintained upon those employments: the truth of the colour is as material as the goodness of the cloth, for as oftentimes good cloth is spoiled by a bad colour, so doth a good colour often mend and prefer a mean cloth, therefore as needful to be provided for some: Casual faults. faults come by negligence without deceivable intent, as sometime by overmilling of a cloth through absence of the mill-man, then is there some sorts of wools of that nature as will not prove so well in milling as other wools: sometime a cloth over heated with going too dry in the mill and so consumed, sometime a small stone in the fulling earth works many bracks or holles in the cloth, then may misfortune happen by bad oils, as Whale oil by lying long will change the colour and alter the cloth; sometime a cloth hurt by roukling to the mill, which fault might be well put in the milmans deceit, because he doth the same with cards to rake off much flox. Again the want of the clothiers mark may sometimes come by negligence of the weaver, but often pretended wilfully, either in regard of the falsehood of the Cloth which makes them shame to set their mark, or else intending to put another man's mark in it, which they commonly do without weaving, sowing the same being taw, and so milled upon it: but very fit it is that every mark should be woven in the cloth, to draw them to perfect making, for the credit of their marks. Deceits used by some merchants and drapers. There are some merchants that deal in stuffs termed new drapery, especially in perpetuanas, which are now grown to great use and traffic, but not like to continue long, by their falsehood since their first making, which brought them into estimation: for where at first their pitch in the loom was twelve hundredth, but now brought to eight hundredth, yet keep their breadth and length. Some of these merchants do buy slight says and put them forth to milling, and make bastard perpetuanas of them good to the sight, but so unprofitable in wearing, that the same abuses do utterly discredit that commodity. A sort of cloth is made called Manchester or Lancashire plains to make cottons, which contain about a yard in breadth: these are often bought by merchants and others, which cut them in length according to a kersey, and hath them dressed and died in form to a kersey, the which are not only vented into foreign parts, but many of them vented in the Realm; which cloth proves very unprofitable in wearing. Also there have some merchants caused counterfeit Devonshire kerseys to be made in Yorkshire out of washers or halfethicks, which have contained such length and breadth with stop lists, like those Devonshire kerseys, which they have caused to be dressed, died, & pressed with the hot press, and so sent beyond the Seas in the name of Devonshire kerseys, to the great discredit of that sort of Cloth: beside, there is a greedy desire in some merchants, who cause the Clothier to make their of extraordinary length, that is to say, the substance and length of a cloth and a half into one cloth, & if they cannot get them made so, than they will cut and draw three into two so cunningly as can hardly be found: this is done, to deceive the king of his customs and other duties. Some Drapers have made practice to draw the forell of a fine Kentish Cloth upon a Northern Dozen, so cunningly as could not easily be perceived, which forell by the Alnegers negligence hath had the king's arms with the name of that county upon it, whereas he ought to set it within the Cloth. The sent of those Northern Dozen hath been taken away, first by airing, and afterwards with liquors or powders: so the buyers have not had only the forels to deceive them, but in false manner, the king's seal hath been made use of to that purpose: and then the deceiver to conclude all, lays his hand upon the forell, and with an equinocating oath, swears this Kentish cloth cost him so much. There is also a late commodity in great use of making within this kingdom, Fustians. which setteth many people on work, called Fustians, which for want of government are so decayed by falsehood, keeping neither order in goodness nor assize, insomuch that the makers thereof, in this short time of use, are weary of their trades, and it is thought will return again to the place from whence it came, who do still observe their sorts and goodness in such true manner, as by their seals they are sold, keeping up the credit of that which they make: what a shame is this to our Nation, to be so void of reason and government, that a good trade should be suppressed for want of good order amongst themselves, and have so good a precedent from others. These many enormities are now in the height of practice, the evil disposed having no feeling thereof, but run forward to the ruin of all: but to the well disposed which looks into these abufes, it appears lamentable and grievous, desiring that a better portion may be procured for those offenders, to purge so vile and dangerous a disease, which may in short time grow incurable. CHAP. 6. The inconvenience and hurt by these abuses. Whilst the true making of Cloth endured in reasonable manner it was most vendible in all parts, & so much desired, that foreign Merchants did usually come into this realm, to fetch them away: but since deceit crept in, he hath grown greater, and increased every day, the trade still declining from bad to worse, and now to worst of all, like ivy, which being suffered, claspeth the tree so hard, that in time the body dies thereby. What maketh those now to refuse our Cloth being brought to their own doors, which before time earnestly sought it at ours? falsehood. What makes the Gentleman complain of his Wool which lies on his hand? The clothier complain of his dead sales? The Merchant complain on his loss? all but falsehood. What will this come unto? Nay what is it come to already? The Authors of this evil, both the bad Clothier & the bad merchant, are surfeited with their sweet meat, like Prodigals that spend their patrimony in a moment, which might well serve them & their posterity: deceits cannot endure, especially whom that it grows violent, nor can they throw it so far off, but that it will rebound back to them which threw it. How thick are certificates of falsehood returned upon our Merchants from beyond the seas? so that they know no end of their trouble, nor certain of their gain or loss until their moneys be received, and abatements deducted. Bad wares are the breeders of bad debts and desperate hazards, wherewith both merchants and makers are extremely punished: when a complement of defective cloth is made, the owner is often enforced to barter for as bad a commodity, a hilding for a jade, or else to deliver it out with a handful of that sweet herb time, but receive it with a back burden of the bitter herb Rew. So here is adventure increased, in which point the Merchant far exceeds the maker▪ Yet the maker is an adventurer, who hath his goods and substance dispersed into many hands, yea and amongst the poorer sort, of divers conditions, whose fingers are like thorny bushes which the sheep must go through, in every of which, do what he can, he shall leave a lock of his fleece behind him, and although he preserve the principal, yet will a part be detained indirectly: Then when he hath with great care and time finished his work, he must undergo a doubtful Market, and often light on a bad merchant, which defeats him of all: yet herein is his comfort; for his work folk, they are within the compass of his view, and seldom fail, by reason of their continual dependence; for his Markets he doth weekly know his worst; and for his Merchant, he may daily see or bear from him at the Royal-Exchange, if his dealing be in London, & in other places within the Realm in like manner. Wherefore, his frazards are but petty adventures in regard of the Merchants. For when those commodities are fastened on the merchant, he must endure a number of dangerous adventures, both outward and inward, shipwrecks at Sea, peril of Pirates, and other robbers; at his place of sale, there he must give credit to those he never saw, and such as neither live in his religion nor Law, he must abide to answer all defects found, where our own Laws shallbe alleged to punish them who before was not privy to the offence. If they escape confiscation, yet shall they be sure of intolerable abatements, with bad words, and shameful reproaches; they must stand to the honesty of their factors, which often prove false, and the danger of the Country often subject to change. These and many other casualties causeth cares to abridge his rest, and keeps him waking when others sleep, every stormy wind breeds his fear, and every flying report makes him doubtful, and not without great cause, seeing so many fall so lainly to the utter overthrow, not only of themselves, but divers other depending upon them, like to the fall of a mighty Tree, which crusheth down the under shrubs about him, so far as his fall did reach. Therefore the chief remedy to prevent much of this mischief, is to deal in loyal and perfect commodities, which will with credit abide his time for Market, when the other by long lying looseth still, both in goodness and credit; procuring hasty bargains, that brings after repentance. In Provinces beyond the bounds of Christendom, God is blasphemed, our Religion reviled, and our people mistearmed in beastly manner: when a Turk or Infidel brusheth his garment bare, that he may number the threads, and find it to have feeling fence to run in at a wet shower, or a hot Iron, than our Christian profession is called in question by those profane people, who measure our faith by our works. In kingdoms near us, these abuses have been found so odious, and their people so much wronged, that they have made laws and edicts, to banish our cloth out of their countries, rather desiring our wools, wherewith they can make true commodities. This hath set divers countries on work, in making of cloth, which serveth those places of traffic, where we did use to commerce, divers workmen have gone out of this Land, to make use of their practice and living there, where they are entertained, and daily increase: In our own Country, where much of our Wool may be vented, the falsehood of clothing is so common, that every one striveth to wear any thing rather than cloth: if a gentleman make a livery for his man, in the first shower of rain it may fit his Page for bigness, and for the colours and other conditions in it, after a months wearing, it will look like a soldiers coat which hath line six months out of garrison. It hath been known that a poor man, getting so much money together with care and travel as would buy him a suit of cloth, and taking his Tailor with him, who seeing the cloth, hath justly told him how much would serve to make his jerkin, and breeches which he hath bought accordingly, afterwards counselled by that Tailor, to cast his Cloth in the water, to make it more serviceable, which he so doing, hath quite lost his jerkin, and having no more money, was forced to go cold all winter in his upper parts: this in some degree may be accounted sacrilege, to rob the poor; what are the inconveniences that are drawn on by these means? first, indignity to our king, whose seal is fixed on this cloth, injury to our nation that works abuse on this cloth, infamy to ourselves that wear some part of this Cloth, and utter ruin of all benefits which should arise by this cloth. It is high time to look out, when the fire hath caught hold of the house end; if it be not prevented by quenching it will soon consume to the ground, and it is doubtful whether these enormities are incurable or no: the plant of falsehood is grown so great and ancient, that it may be supposed rather to break than bend, but extraordinary means and pains must be applied to the cause, which may be recovered by good industry. CHAP. VII. The remedy to be made by the Alnegers provision. AS this full grown evil hath now procured a dangerous hurt, so hath it very happily fallen out in a time which can afford an especial remedy. When this kingdom was divided amongst seven kings, it was under a strange government: when there was twice seven Alnegers in the realm, there was neither law nor order observed amongst them; but all they sought was gain, and how to intrude into each others benefit: if a Clothier or offender were interrupted in his falsehood within one County, he could freely exercise the same in another; where he should be willingly received, because he augmented that Alnegers profit. But now, thanks be to God, we live under one gracious Prince, who ordains no diversity of Laws; but hath provided one order of government for all; So that ill divided office of Alnage which ran to ruin in many hands, is now reduced into one worthy man's hands; which hath not only power to command, but also will to perform all means, and courses, which may tend to the reformation of this grievous enormity: In this business many hands must be employed, whose work may seem harsh to those which shall be put out of their wont course: But it is not their content that is sought; unto a general good every particular help must be applied, here must be more pains in the Alneger, more care and truth in the workman, and more trouble to the clothier, but all to a good and profitable end. The first thing to be looked unto, is the condition of the clothiers and makers of cloth, stuffs, and commodities belonging to this government, which at this time is much differing from law or order, many of them unexperienced and usurpers of the trade, who not being masters thereof through want of knowledge commit most of these abuses. And whereas the law provides that none which profess those trades should be admitted under seven years service in apprenticeship, divers do come into the same with a months practise, and cloies the Kingdom with defective commodities, beggaring themselves, and hurting those which should live by the same: These people for the most part dwelling in obscure places, never bringing their commodities to search or seal, nor yielding any duty, live rather like outlaws than subjects. There is a petition unto the King's Majesty, extant from the best clothiers and makers in divers parts to this purpose, who crave a corporation for the amendment of this, which were pity but it should be granted, considering how many inferior trades enjoys such privilege that govern their companies in good sort and order. If this were accomplished, the better half of this great task were finished, and great hope that our general Alneger will procure it, being so good an assistance to work the reformation which lies on his charge. The dispersing of clothiers and makers is a principal cause to breed these defects: whereas the law ordains that clothing shall not be used but in a city, borough, or market town, or else where clothing hath been usually, to the end that the eye of the officer should be upon their doings: Now they scatter themselves in unfitting places, and if there be but one clothier in a parish he will demand an Alneger to attend him, if not, force the Alneger to come unto his house to seal his cloth, where he shall bestow twelve penny worth of labour for the earning or receiving of one groat: and when he comes thither he shall find them searched by his neighbours that he hath caused to be chosen searchers, who have no skill, or else by his workman who dare do nothing but what himself directeth, and if the Alneger will sometime call their search in question and try the cloth, he shall neither have place convenient to view them, nor weights of any certainty to weigh them, but such weights as they will bring him, which shall be stones, logs, and such other things as they will tell him their weight, and he must believe them. There is no officer under the king so much deluded & abused as he, being so necessary for the kingdom and beneficial to the crown: Sometime, and in some places they will call him from his rest at all hours of the night to perform his office, not for necessity, but of purpose to disturb him, with many other injuries, which they in base manner have offered him: but herein himself is most to be blamed, that knowing his own power and place would suffer such indignities. The course of these days is for such as will bear to have greater burdens put upon them than can be borne. It is unknown that any officer of the Kings which hath the keeping and use of his seal should be subject to such servitude, neither is it convenient: therefore the true course herein to be obsetued, is for the Alneger, to provide in every place (needful for an Alnegers residence) a convenient room for all Makers or Clothiers to come unto, wherein must be a perch to draw over the clothes, a table to measure and try the clothes, and a beam with true weights to weigh the clothes, and the deputy not only to be sufficient in ability and knowledge but also bound, and sworn to perform his office truly, that he shall be there always ready at convenient or appointed times to make a true search in all points, and in no place elsewhere, and upon the altering of the property of the cloth, to make a new search in these degrees: First, if the aforesaid corporation be procured, that then the clothes be first viewed raw by the wardens or assistants of that corporation, to see whether the cloth be made of sound yarn, or any deceit be wrought by the weaver, and being found merchantable to be marked at the head end with a mark of allowance cut in the cloth according to the manner of search now used upon raw Devonshire kerfies, but being defective either to iagge the same at both ends, or cut off the head forrell from the cloth, and to set such fine upon the offendor as those Wardens or Overseers shall find the fault deserve. But for the Alnegers charge, when the cloth is thicked from the mill to measure the same truly in length and breadth, not trusting to the clothiers content who will often for the credit of his cloth, set on more length than it doth truly contain; and that the Alneger doth set on the just content in the water, whatsoever it containeth on his seal, also expressing the the narrowness or other defects which he shall find: And against every fault in the cloth to cut down a notch of an inch deep and therein fix a seal as may appear to the buyer where the fault is, then when this cloth is fully dried, that he set one the just content of weight also whatsoever it shall weigh, all this to be done before the king's seal be fixed thereunto. When any of those clothes are farther altered by dying, dressing, or straining, that he cause those former seals of the water to remain still upon the cloth, to express what it was, and to set other seals upon that cloth to show unto the buyer what that cloth is strained unto according to the appointment of the Lords of his majesties council which granted a toleration for certain clothes to be strained, yet laid that charge upon the Alneger, that the difference between the water content and strained length might be seen: If other faults be in that cloth either by dying or dressing, that the same be also notified by several seals: whether that cloth be colour grain, woaded, or contrary in false colour, so that in of right it ought to have those seals ollowing. 1 A seal of water length. Died clothes. 2 A seal of narrowness and defects. Died clothes. 3 A searched seal, with the weight. Died clothes. 4 A seal for strained length. Died clothes. 5 A seal for colour and dressing. Died clothes. 6 The kings seal and county. Died clothes. And that every seal set on by the Alneger may have an especial mark therein to signify the place where it was sealed, and by whom, to the end that if any defects be passed over by favour or negligence in him, he may be rightly challenged and punished for the same according to his error, and that in all searches he be both present and principal, at the raw search with the Wardens or Overseers, at search from the mill by himself and whom he please, at the search of straining and dressing by himself and such workmen of judgement as he shall make choice for sufficiency, and for the search of dying to have always the true opinion of the best experienced therein, both for colours died in wool, and colours died in cloth, and all to be sealed according to their true property. So here is four searches to be made on a dressed and died cloth, three searches on a dressed white cloth or kersey or of like nature, and two searches upon every rough white cloth undressed: And to every one of these searches a fee due of two pence on every broadcloth, and so according to the rate on all other clothes to be paid: and it may so happen that all these searches cannot be performed in one place by reason that the cloth may be woven in one place, milled in an other, dressed in an other, and died in an other, so the diversity of search must be performed by several Officers: this cannot be avoided, but where the condition and property is altered, the Officer there must make that search, and by the several seals appear where the cloth was made, where dressed, and where died, and by whom in every search seen and sealed. In the manner of this search he must observe the several penalties ordained by the law upon all offences, wherein he must chiefly follow the direction of the Statute lately made in 4. jacobi cap. 2. for length, breadth, and weight, of all sorts of cloth, which although he do not prosecute with extremity, yet keep them so far within government, as may bring them to reformation, and the King to receive more benefit by his laws. The Alneger in every place must also keep a book for the King; wherein must be registered the several fines and penalties taken in all these searches, for what, and from whom, 11. H. 6. cap. 9 which account must agree with the seal of faults by him set on: if any cloth prove intolerable defective, that the Alneger then cut off the list or porell at the one end of that cloth that it may not be accounted for a cloth, but a remnant, and so sealed by him accordingly, taking his fees, duties, and penalties on that cloth notwithstanding. And that the Alneger procure them to public markets, especially in London according to the statut of 39 Eb. cap. 20. or else to lay the penalty of that law on them, which is 40. s. upon a cloth, and by all means to prevent private sales, which is the cover to hide all abuses, & escape due search, & therefore ought carefully to be observed. Objections. In prosecuting this order and course there will be three main objections made, to say, trouble, charge, and danger: First who will endure such extraordinary toil in carrying their goods so often to search, and being in divers places, far off from the place of search: Secondly who will yeeld-to such a charge, as to the fees of a fourfold search whereas heretofore never but one was required, and that fee hardly paid; this will be held a taxation or an imposition unnecessarily drawn on, and good to be avoided: Thirdly, who will run wilfully into the danger of the law, as to abide the penalties which shall be found out by so many searches, wherein every degree many offences are made. We cannot (say they) cast our cloth in a mould, but shall of force offend: rather than these hard conditions should be undergone, every man will give over clothing and betake himself to other course of living, what shall then become of the trade? The Answer. To the first, the law requires them to be searched and further appoints them to bring their cloth to a city, borough, or town corporate, and there to be searched and sealed where the Alneger or sealer shall be, and place fitting: Besides, 4. & 5. P. & M. cap. 5. there is a vacant time commonly with every cloth betwixt each degree of search: when a cloth comes forth of the loom, it goes not presently to the mill, nor so from the mill to dressing, neither from dressing to dying, but sometime a day or two, more or less lieth still, affording time for such trial; but admit that all expedition therein may be required, that time lost is nothing being soon dispatched, neither will the pains seem great to those which intent truth, better it is for them to endure a miles travel, than the Merchants should still undergo an endless trouble, theier clothes often returned many hundred miles, and certificates daily which doth triple their loss every way: whereas by this course they shall know their worst at home, avoid after-reckoning, and breed ease & benefit to the merchants and themselves. Secondly, for the charge that cannot be forborn, if the service be performed, considering this, that those which do the same, are or aught to be of estimation, professors of that trade: wherefore, precious is loss of time, and that their pains duly done therein, deserves no less fee, but especially their danger of loss, which will light on them, if their search be false & negligently performed. The charge of a bay, sealed at Colchester (whose course herein must be imitated) by reason of the often search it comes unto ten pence duty, yet divers of them not above forty shillings value: if this payment were left, their orders would fall, wherein they reap a fivefold benefit: so shall all Clothiers and makers find hereby, that if his cloth be defective, he shall know the worst of his loss, but if it be merchantable, those seals shall be such credit unto it as shall much advantage the sale thereof. Better is 8. pence given to have a work effectually done, than two pence to him that doth nothing at all, if any thing, rather hurt than good. The sparing of this course, and these fees, hath been the breeding of all former hurts; and although the general good required it, yet every man's private respect that should perform pains without profit, drew back the means of remedy and reformation. 3. the daunager of Law cannot be dispensed withal to those which wilfully break the Law: it was ordained to be observed, yet moderadion will be herein used and a difference made between faults pretended, & faults casual, & the punishment in also inflicted, as shall rather tend to procure amendment, than the offenders ruin: and for offences general, which are all liable to the law, most of them by the maker's care and officers search will be suppressed, and all in short time by endeavours on all parts quite rooted out. That a doth cannot be cast in a mould, it is true, but a clothier skilful and careful in choice of his wool and yarn, and also perfect in his trade, may make a cloth as it pleaseth himself in length, breadth, evenness, and especially in weight. We have a sort of Clothiers which have toleration to strain, and whereas their clothes should contain in weight being dressed 60. l. the toleration allows them at 58. which coming all to the Alnegers trial, be in favour to them, pardons them at 56. which they perceiving to incur no danger, unless they be any thing under that weight, will bring them so just thereunto, that in 20. clothes together, you shall scarce find a quarter of a pound in any differing from 56. l. that indeed a man may judge they were cast in a mould: these men could aswell make them to 58. l. but that they strive to decline, so far as they can without danger. As for the discouraging of people to deal in this trade, when so strict search and order shall be taken, neither the good clothier, nor the good Merchant, will say so, nor the general opinion esteem it so: It was never known that true government did at any time decay any trade, but rather caused it to increase and flourish, by this means much more Cloth will be made, better sold, and more desired and sought for: and to conclude, supply all necessary wants, which this worthy (but overwronged) trade hath long time endured. FINIS.