HIMATIAPOLEOS. THE TRIUMPHS OF old drapery, or the rich Clothing of ENGLAND. Performed in affection, and at the charges of the right Worthy and first honoured Company of Drapers: at the instalment of Sr. Thomas Hayes Knight, in the high office of Lord Maior of London, on Saturday, being the 29. day of October. 1614 Devised and written by A. M. Citizen and Draper of London.  
LONDON, Printed by Edward Allde. 1614   

Himatiapoleos. Or, The Old drapery and Clothing of ENGLAND.  
IN every well-governed Kingdom and Commonwealth, the chiefest City and Citizens therein, have evermore held the prime place and priority; as well in matter of honour, as due right of Antiquity. And as the lacedaemonians, the first instructors of the old romans, and so (from them) we, and all other Nations derived our form of rule; As they (I say) made a distinguishing of their most memorable Societies, from other of much less note and merit: Even so this famous City of London, whose continual teeming womb (from time to time) brought forth many several Mysteries or Professions, hath referred them all in eminency of place, to twelve only. Amongst which twelve gradations of honour and dignity, the first original began in the first Company of all other in this City the ancient fellowship or Society of Drapers.  
To approve the society of Drapers of the first, when (as yet) there was none other: it is avouched by 
* He lived and wrote in the time of king Stephen.  William Fitzstephen, john Bale, Roger Hoveden, and others, that the Wooll-winder, (who was the old Draper or Clothier, as borrowed from the word Drappier) did card and spin his wool, then weave it into cloth, full, row, shear, dress, and die it, and sell in afterwards in his shop, performing all these several offices thereto, by himself and servants: which (since then) hath branched itself into divers other Companies, and of one entire Trade or Mystery, is become many.  
Out of this list or band of Drapers, issued Sir Henry Fitz-Alwine knight, descended from that Alwine, Uncle to king Edgar, who made him Alderman of all England, when as (till then) the name of Alderman, or Eldermen, was never known. This Henry Fitz-Alwine had the first honour to be styled 
* In the old Saxon tongue from whence it was derived, it signifieth Dominus or Lord.  More, or Maior of London, by favour of King Richard the first, surnamed Cuer de Lion, and was himself (as is credibly avouched) a Brother of the same Society, in honour of the man by him so advanced, before his journey to the Holy Land. For, until his time, the troublesome combustions of the City being not fully settled: the government thereof remained first in Portgreves, next in martial Provosts, thirdly in Bailiffs, and lastly in Lord majors, as in meet place is more at large declared.  
here before I pass any further, it may appear as a blemish on mine own brow, because in my Book in the worthy Company of Goldsmiths, I did set down Henry Fitz-Alwine, Fitz-Leofstane to be a Goldsmith, and the first Lord Maior of London, alleging my authority for the same in the margin of the same book, out of 
* The ancient Chronicler of the City.  john Stowe, which now I may seem to deny, and affirm the same man to be a Draper, to the disgrace of the forenamed Company, and mine own deep discredit. What then I did, was by warrant of my fore-alleaged Author, who finding Henry Fitz-Alwine, Fitz-Leofstane, to be Master or Guardian of the king's Mint, did therefore set him down to be a Goldsmith; which was no error in me to do the like, being thereto secured by him, and knowing (as then) no other proof to the contrary. But having perused more assured authority in the Draper's Hall, that one, not named Henry Fitz-Alwine Fitz-Leofstane, but Henry Fitz-Alwine, a brother of the old Drapers, was Lord Maior of London, four and twenty years and a half (by yearly election) and longer had been if he had longer lived, who had also given his dwelling house by London stone, to his own free brethren of the Drapers, with an annuity yearly to be paid to the king, out of such land as is held of his by them; and that he lieth in the parish Church of S. Marie Bothawe buried, the Parish wherein he lived and died; whereas john Stowe affirmeth him to be buried in the Priory of the holy Trinity, called Christ's Church, on the right hand within Aldegate, which is now called the Duke's place. Nay more, Master Clarentius Cambden, with the advise of divers other good Antiquaries beside, hath (under his hand and Seal of Office) confirmed him to be none other than a Draper. What more free confession can any man make, then of his blind misleading by a blinder guide? In whose behalf I dare yet boldly maintain, that no such error escaped from him wilfully or willingly, his care and endeavour was so great, but misinformation, or incapacity of reading, may (as it hath done to many) wrong better men than any that are concerned in this case, yet without any prejudice or dishonest taxation.  
What offence then may the Company of Mercers take, who make challenge likewise to the very same man, by mistaking Peter Fitz-Alwine (a Mercer indeed) for Henry Fitz-Alwine the old Draper? Or that of the Fishmongers, who deem their worthy Wallworth, the first Knighted Maior in the field, to be the same man also, and that no man before him was Maior of London? I answer freely for myself, and appeal to an especial Gentleman in the imagined injured Company of Goldsmiths (who took no mean pains to be resolved in this case) that no certain assurance could be had therein, but that it remained doubtful between both the Societies. And therefore we personated old Faringdon, not Fitz-Alwine, as the book yet may be seen, to cut off all such contentious questions. Seeing then that reverend antiquity, eminency of honour, and due right of merit; bestowed so high a dignity upon the Drapers: I might well be justly condemned, if I should seek after any other argument of credit for them (when so main a business doth necessarily require it) than their own due deserving, so long time sleeping in oblivion, yet now revived, to their endless honour.  
The walls of any City, were termed by the Grocians, according as we title our instant discourse, Himatia Poleos, The Clothing or garments of the City. Intimating thereby, that as garments and clothing do engird the body, defending it continually from the extremities of cold and heat: so walls, being the best garments of any City, do preserve it from all dangerous annoynances. Here on we lay the foundation of our devise, in the honour of Draperie the rich Clothing of England▪ which (long before the knowledge of fantastic habits) clothed both Prince & people all a like, to the 〈◊〉 mean renown of the Kingdom, and admiration of foreign nations, to whom our drapery (abounding in her own plenty) by means of navigation and commerce, afforded the rich Livery of this land; better embraced by them, and much more highly esteemed, than all other traffic whatsoever. As well appeared by that famous Knight and travailer, Sir Frances Drake, who having rounded the whole world, and noted the riches & best endowments of every naon found none to equal the drapery and clothing of England. In regard whereof, he chose to be a loving Brother of the Draper's Society, before all other Companies of the City. Wherefore our first land devise is a Ship, very artificially and workmanly framed, called the Barke-Hayes, fitted with Captain, Master, Mate. etc. and supposedly laden with woollen clothes, to make exchange for other Country's best commodities, and thought meet to usher the way to the residue of the shows, which are directed to follow in this manner.  
A beautiful Chariot, drawn by two golden pelleted Lions, and two golden Wolves Erminnois, after the manner of the triumphal Chariots of the Roman Emperors, is graced with the supposed shape of King Richard the first, with the several figures of so many Cities in England about him, as conveniency of place and carriage granted liberty unto. Those Cities are deciphered by their Eschuchions of Arms, and that their best advantage ever ensued by making of woollen clothes, for the continual maintenance of England's drapery. But London sitting nearest unto himself, as chief Mother and matron of them all: he honours the head of his chiefest Chamber, with a triple imperial Crown of gold, under battled or branched with Clouds, and beams of the Sun, being the Arms of the Draper's Society, and declaring his love and favour bestowed on her, by his advancement of Sir Henry Fitz-Alwine to the Mayoralty, in whom began the old Draper's dignity.  
After this Chariot, followeth a Pageant or goodly Monument, figuring the whole estate of London's old drapery. In the supreme and most eminent seat, sitteth Himatia, of Clothing, as Mother, Lady and commandress of all the rest, who by their distinct emblems and properties, (apted for the easiest apprehension) do express their duty and attendance on so gracious a person, in their several places and offices to them belonging; As in Carding, Spinning, Weaving, Rowing, Fulling, Shearing Dressing, Dying, Tentering and performing all other services to woollen clothes, which at first was done only by the Draper, or Clothier. Peace, Plenty, Liberality, Council and Discreet Zeal, do support the flourishing condition of himatia's Commonwealth, and strive to prevent all occasions which may seem sinister or hurtful thereto.  
Our devise which we spoke last of, and yet is appointed the first in service, serveth both for the water and land. Till the year 1453. the L. Majors of London used to ride on horseback to Westminster, at such time as each one went to take his oath. But S. john Norman Draper, being then Maior, at his own cost and charge, and for the relief of poor Watermen, who were much distressed in those days: made a very goodly Barge for himself and his Brethren, to be rowed therein by water to Westminster, and so to continue for a yearly custom. It was a costly Barge, and the Oars are said to be covered with silver: in memory whereof, and the honest benefit yearly found thereby: the Watermen made a pleasant song called, row thy Boat Norman, etc. This honour beginning likewise in the Draper, and falling out so fitly to help our invention: in a goodly fair Barge, made meet for the purpose, attendeth the supposed shadow of Sir john Norman, with the seven liberal Sciences (all attired like graceful Ladies) sitting about him, until such time as the Lord Maior cometh to take water, and then he saluteth him with this speech.  

S. john Normans speech on the Water.  
WElcome to the water, worthy Brother Draper. Imagine me to be the true resemblance of old S. john Norman, sometime Lord Maior of this famous City, and the first that devised this water honour, making my Barge at mine own proper cost, and rowed with silver Oars to Westminster, when (as you now) I then went to take mine oath. In regard whereof, I was the first Maior, that was presented to the Barons, of the Exchequer. The imaginary shapes of the seven liberal Sciences, each one distinguished by their true character, are placed as my companions in my Barge: in memory of the love I ever bare to learning, and no mean bounties by me extended for the maintenance thereof. I joy, that invention would make use of my remembrance in this manner, to do any service to so desertful a Brother, and to the Company of Drapers which I dearly affected. On then my hearts, and as in those elder days you declared your love to old john Norman: so express somewhat now to delight my honoured Brother, singing cheerfully, row thy Boat Norman.  
Which being no sooner ended, but divers sweet singing youths, belonging to the master that instructeth the young Choristers of Paul's, being all attired in fair wrought wastcoates, and caps belonging also to them, each having a silver Oar in his hand; do sing a most sweet ditty of row thy Boat Norman, and so seem to row up along to Westminster, in honour of the Lord majors attendance.  
For the several peals of Ordinance, which make better report in the air, than they can be expressed by pen: For the Drums, mischiefs, Trumpets, and other musical Instruments, whereof each Company maketh their choice, to grace this honourable service out and home again, in the true affection of loving Citizens, not suffering their chief Magistrate to want any part of their kind respect and furtherance: they can much better speak for themselves then I, and serve but as a breathing time to me, until my Lords return and landing. When all our devices being martialled in order, according as we have formerly related, except a goodly Ram or Golden Fleece, with a Shepherd sitting by it; as occasion serveth, delivereth his intention in this ensuing speech.   

The Shepherd.  
WHy gaze ye so upon me! am I not a man flesh, blood, and bone, as you are? Or in these silken satin Towns, are poor plain meaning Shepherds wondered at, like Comets or blazing Stars▪ Or is it this goodly beast by me, that fills your eyes with admiration? If it be so, let me then resolve ye, that it is an article of duty which we Shepherds of Cotsall owe to the old Drapers of London, for keeping their flocks on the Cotsall hills, that when any worthy Brother of their Society comes to be L. Maior of this City, the very fairest Ram in all their flocks is sent unto them as a solemn offering, as being the Crest of their Companies Arms, and the chief maintainer of Wool for clothing. In which respect, my Father about some six and twenty years since, when S. Martin Calthrope (a Brother of the same Society) was Lord Maior, brought then the like goodly. Ram as his oblation; and I hearing, that his man S. Thomas Hayes, and another Martin, Master Martin Lumley (by the blessing of heaven and their own virtuous endeavours) were the next chosen Brethren of the same Band, the one to succeed in the self same dignity of the Mayoralty, and the other of the Shrivealty; have brought this as my hearts free offering, in honour of them that so dearly affect them, and in my duty to them both, with all my utmost service beside. For thus say we in Catswolde.  
From the Ram  
we have the Lamb  
From both our finest  
wools are shorn.  
Wool had thus from  
the Ram and Lamb,  
Makes the best Cloth,  
that can be worn.  
Thank then the Draper  
that began:  
To make such Clothing,  
meet for man.  
For, if we have no Ram, we are sure to have no Lamb: no Lamb, no Wool: no wool, no Cloth: no Cloth, no Draper.  
Heaven grant that we may never see these no's,  
For we shall then feel twice as many woes:  
But that of Ram, Lamb, Wool, Cloth, still we may have store:  
So shall the Drapers then thrive more and more.  
As mean additions, to give some small juster to the Show, because over many were thought inconvenient; we make use of a golden pelletted Lion, a supporter to the Companies Arms, with a Champion mounted on his back, and a golden wolf Erminnois, the Ensign or Impreze belonging to the Lord majors Crest. And with these few slender devices, we usher his honours way toward Guilde-Haule; until he come to S. Laurence-Lane, where the figure of S. Henry Fitz-Alwine, thus favourably stayeth him.  
IN times of old Antiquity,  
When men lived long and healthfully,  
Detesting sloth and idleness,  
Which breeds but surfeit and excess.  
When yea and nay was greatest Oath,  
And men's best wear, good woollen Cloth,  
Yclept England's drapery,  
More worth than gaudy bravery,  
Of Silken twine, Silver and Gold,  
near known in those blessed days of old:  
Then lived that grave and worthy man,  
That London's honour first began,  
By title of the Mayoralty,  
A high and famous dignity:  
Henry Fitz-Alwine was his name,  
Noble by birth, and of much fame.  
Whose substance though his grave hath kept,  
Four hundred years, where he hath slept:  
Yet is his shadow raised in me,  
To grace this days solemnity.  
For he being first that held the sway  
Of Maior in London, justly may  
Challenge (by right) priority,  
In honouring his own Company,  
With all that sacred Poesy can  
devise, to grace so good a man,  
As first with hearts, hands, and free voice,  
Was thought meet in the people's choice  
To rank in that rich roll of fame:  
That honoured first the Draper's name.  
And worthy Brother here survey  
Those several kinds of London's sway  
Till royal Richard first in me,  
Altered the rule to Mayoralty.  
Portgreves held first by strict command,  
Next Provosts with a sterner hand,  
Such from the Conquest was the case  
Of London's awe, till milder grace  
Made choice of Bailiffs, men thought fit  
In the King's judgement Courts to sit,  
And right all causes of contention:  
By upright censure, or prevention.  
Yet all this could not please the king,  
In two men's rule grew varying,  
By leaning to what part each listed,  
So might by might was still resisted.  
Wrongs unredressed, offences flowing,  
Garboils & grudges each where growing.  
Therefore as God had given him place,  
Solely to rule, and judge each case,  
So would he plant a deputy,  
To figure his authority,  
In the true form of Monarchy,  
Than which, no better sovereignty.  
Which office being imposed on me,  
By such a gracious Majesty:  
I held it four and twenty years,  
(Yearly elected, as appears.)  
Until my very dying day.  
Since when (my Lord) I can well say,  
The Science of old drapery,  
(Our loving kind Society)  
Hath yielded many a Magistrate, 
The number of 45. Lord majors,   
In the self-same degree of State.  
And Time reserveth in his store,  
For the like honour, many more.  
On then before, for we must tend,  
Till this days triumph have full end.  
The solemnity of so pompous a feast being finished, and his Honour (according to yearly custom) returning towards Paul's, with all the former conceits gracefully borne before him: he is mildly solicited for a minutes stay by old Sir john Norman, who (in this manner) giveth him a reason for it.   

The Speech at the little Conduit in the afternoon, at my Lords going to Paul's.  
Honourable Lord and Brother, it is imposed on old john Norman, briefly to describe these two beautiful devices to ye. In the first, which manifesteth the Honour of drapery, your well judging eye may easily conceive, each person by their apt distinguishment. The Mother, Old drapery, with her Daughters and attendants placed about her, do deliver the Draper's true antiquity, and that which he and his only performed, is since become the benefit of divers trades or occupations. Carding, Spinning, Weaving, Fulling, Rowing, Shearing, Dressing, Dying, Tentering, and what else appertained to woollen cloth, was the ancient Draper's sole profession, and the chief honour of this famous Kingdom: flourishing thereby in so many happy blessings, and so fortified by Peace, Plenty, Bounty, Council and Discreet Zeal, that all other nations sat and admired thereat. You have a taste of this felicity in that other devise, beautified with the chief Clothing Cities of this Land, for maintenance of ancient drapery, whereof London sitteth the highest advanced, as being his choice Chamber that first made a Draper the only Governor thereof. I am loath to hold ye long, and well I wot, more ample relation hath been made unto ye; and therefore to God and your good devotions I heartily commend ye.  
Night folding up bright day in dim mantles of darkness, and those divine ceremonies ended, which wait as Henchmen on that days duty, the Stars seem to leave their places in their fixed Spheres, and become as so many bright flaming Torches to grace our worthy Magistrate home, even to his house, (as it were) in the malice of blacke-faced night, and to further the finishing of so solemn a Triumph, which endeth with this humble farewell given to his honour.   

The Speech delivered to the Lord Maior at parting.  
THe longest days have end at last,  
And pleasures pomp is but a blast,  
You see my Lord that sullen night,  
Sworn enemy to days delight,  
(For all the pride these Tapers make,)  
Whispers, that we must farewell take.  
To doubt of your ensuing care,  
Or to advise ye, to prepare  
For envies storms, or soothing smiles,  
That wait on such high place some while:  
Longs not to me. For in your eye  
Such true Characters I espy  
Of virtue, zeal, and upright heed,  
That you will prove the man indeed,  
Meet such a charge to undergo:  
Whereto heavens hand hath raised you so▪  
And that you'll equal any yet  
That in the self-same place hath set.  
Such is the hope of all that love ye,  
'mongst whom, I cannot choose but move ye  
With their remembrance, that this day  
Have done as much as men well may  
In honouring this Solemnity,  
The Draper's worthy Company.  
Their love and bounty hath expressed,  
How with their favours you are blessed:  
For, as their kindness hath not scanted:  
So hath no needful service wanted.  
For this days honour and delight:  
And so my worthy Lord good night.   

Thus the worthy and first honoured Company of Drapers, having (in loving and bountiful manner) declared their kind affection to as affable a Magistrate: I may not omit one thing more, wherein the duteous respect of themselves, and love to the City very manifestly approved their worth: for, when many solemn meetings have been made in the Guild Hall, for election of a Sheriff by common consent, and as many refusals still happening day by day, to the great disquiet of the Companies, and mighty delay of time; yet when no one would undergo the Office and charge, a Draper hath done it, worthily and willingly, though no Alderman's place as then was void, witness Master Benedict Barneham, a learned and judicious Gentleman, who cheerfully undertook the Shrievalty in Anno 1591. Next, Master Henry jaye, but a year since, and Master Martin Lumley now Sheriff of London, all of them loving Brethren of the Draper's Society.  
To conclude, as the several Inventions (with all their weaknesses and imperfections) were mine own: so the worth and credit of their performance (if any may wait on so mean a business) belongeth to the exact and skilful Painter Master Rowland Bucket, whose care, diligence, and faithful dealing I must needs commend, and should wrong him overmuch if I did not give him due praise to his merit. (* ⁎ *)  
FINIS.