THE GUNNER'S DIALOGUE. With the Art of great ARTILLERY. BY ROBERT NORTON, Engineer. and Gunner. LONDON, Printed for john Tap, and are to be sold at his shop at Saint Magnus' Corner. 1628. diagram TO THE MOST ILLUSTRIOUS PRINCE the DUKE of Buckingham His Grace, etc. SEeing that amongst all the Arts (most Excellent Duke) that adorn the life of Man upon Earth. War is that highest, worthiest, and most commodious Science that great Princes ought to prefer before all others, were it but for Cicero his reason, sine iniuria in pace vivamus; Peace being by instinct of Nature of all men most desired, And war by the greatest Emperors and Princes of the world ever with Sword and Pen most highly magnified, ingenuously finding therein innumerable inventions, and diverse subtle secrets, and admirable devices, Engines and Stratagems to overcome their Enemies with; yet none comparable to the Art and Practice of Artillery, comprehending in it the greatest matter of importance of our Militia at this day. And finding also (Great Duke) many ardent magnanimous minds to cool, for want of speculation to invent, and diverse Heroic actions to pass by unatchieved, for want of practice to perform, I, the meanest of many, having with long practice, and no small study, and some cost, been somewhat instructed and conversant therein; and seeing the penury of expert Gunners, and understanding men, and the weakness of the present means to breed more hereafter, I have for aid formerly offered my poor Talon, called the Art, and the Practice of Artillery. And now also depending upon your Grace's favour, presume to offer these few lines, called the Gunner's Dialogue, under your Excellency's Patronage, as well to further others therein, as herein to show some part of my thankfulness for your Grace's favour, that it pleased you to employ my service, were it but to view and censure other men's works (I being not naturally scrutinous) wherein I protest I faithfully related to your Grace, my poor opinion truly, if not judiciously, the effect, if they be put in practice will manifest, but certainly clear it was from all partiality or envy, as might appear by my preferring Salinors' Book Lesson, he a Foreigner, before my Country man jones his unexperienced inventions, both strangers to my acquaintance. Accept therefore, I beseech your Excellency, this small unworthy Present; so shall I be encouraged with your Highness' favour and leave, to publish my Triple Architecture, Civil, Military, and Marine, almost ready for the Press; if these speed with favour, which will impressed my services, to attend your Grace's future pleasure, and engage me to rest Devotedly ready at your Excellency's command, ROBERT NORTON. THE GUNNER'S DIALOGUE. Question 1. HOw many things ought a Gunner to understand, and be able to perform, before he take upon him the charge of Ordnance? Answer. Very many, as to know the Force and Nature, Refining, Cleansing, Rectifying and Receipts of the Materials, for the making and renewing of Gunpowder. The Names, Proofs, Uses, Poor, Length, Weight and Fortification of every Piece, and each part thereof. The Vent and Weight of all manner of Shot of any height, Metal, Stone or Receipt named; what quantity of any sort of Powder is due for the loading of each Piece, for any Shot assigned, to shoot effectually at any Mark within the Pieces Right Range, called Point blank, or Deadrange, or utmost random Level, Mounted, or Embased, and many others. Quest. 2. How ought he to be qualified, and go provided? Ans. With many good parts and needful things, as reading, writing, Arithmetic to cast up proportions, Geometry to measure lines surfaces and bodies, with Discretion to govern his many affairs and occasions, with vigilant and diligent care to keep safe his powder and Ordnance from untimely mischances and dangerous accidents: he should not be amongst his Guns without his Horn furnished with Priming powder, and his Case with all sorts of Priming irons, his Sword, Steel, and Tinderbox to light a match at pleasure, ready to defend himself and his charge from injuries. Q. 3. What are the names, and uses of our usual English Ordnance? A. First, the double Canon or Cannon of eight inches high, and the whole Canon or Cannon of seven inches high in boar, and the Di. Canons, and secondly the whole and Demy Culuerings, all which are used in Batteries, especially the Canons, by reason the greater weight of their shots do batter and shake a wall or defence, more than lighter shot could do; the Culuerings are most commonly to reach far off, and yet to beat into a strong opposing mark or object, with a large Orafice. Thirdly, the Saker, Minion, Falcon, or Falconet etc. shooting also iron cast shot (as all the forenamed Pieces do) are to shoot at strong and hard resisting objects and marks also fare off, but the latter being of lower height in boar shooting lesser shot, do consequently pierce smaller holes than the former. Fourthly, the Periors, as the Canon Perior, Periera, Fowler, Port Piece etc. that shoot either stone shot, murdering shot, or Fireworks, either Cambred, that is, having a lesser boar backwards, wherein the charge of Powder is to lie, as the Bambard, Canon Periors, and our Drakes have. Or else they are chambered, and having Chambers to put in behind their chaces to load them with, as the Fowler Port-peece, Slings, Portugal Bases have. Q. 4. What and how many are the Simples or Materials of Gunpowder, and their qualities, and how are they to be Refined and proportionally Mixed or Compounded together? A. The Simples whereof Powder is made and compounded, are only three, namely, Salpeter, which is the soul, and Sulphur, which is the Life, and Cole, which is the Body thereof. For the qualities, Salpeeter will rarify, being fired, and turn into wind, which causeth the force. The Sulphur will kindle, and take fire quickly; and the Coal will maintain the fire and carry them up together. Salpeter is best refined, being dissolved in a little water, and boiled & scummed, being set to congeal, it will in part shoot like Icicles into roch, which is the best; the rest may be either so refined again, or cleansed from the Feces of grease, Alum and salt which accompany it. Sulphur is cleansed by melting it often, and straining it thorough a strong canvas cloth. The Coal if it be well burned of Alder, Hazle, birch and young wood without bark or knot, will also be rectified for the purpose. When a quantity of Powder is to be made, first resolve of the use, whether it be for Ordnance, Musket, or Pistol, for Ordnance, called Canon Powder grease, or the Receipt called four, one and one. And for the Musket, called Hargubusse Powder, and for Pistol fine Powder, the first is of five, one and one, the latter of six, one and one, by which is meant four, siue, or six parts of Peter, to one part of Sulphur, and one part of Coal. Q. 5. How much Powder is it fit to allow each Piece for proof, and for Action? A. For the Cannon's proof ⅘ and for service ½ of the weight of her iron shot, for the Culvering and dat Ordnance, the whole weight of their proper shots for proof, and for Action for the Culvering ⅔, and for the Saker and Falcon ⅘, and for lesser Pieces the whole weight in Action until they grow hot, for than must abatement be made with discretion. But in proof the small Pieces should have once and ⅓ of Powder that the shots weigheth. Q. 6. What if Ordnance Powder of 4.1.1. be wanting, and yet Hargubusse or fine Powder be in store, how will you then proportion your Charge? A. For the 4.1.1. 5.1.1. 6.1.1. Canon Double of 8 40 l 37 l ¼ 35 l 6 oz Whole of 7 33 l ¼ 31 l ⅓ 29 l 7 oz Demi Cannon 20 l 18 ⅔ 17 l 9 oz Culvering 15 l 13 l ¾ 13 l Demi Culvering 7 l 6 5 ¼ Saker 4 3 ½ 3 ¼ Minion 3 ½ 3 ¼ 3 l Falcon 2 l 1 ¾ 1 l 9 oz Cannon Per. ⅓ of the stone shot in powder with discretion abating 5 li pro Cent. Q. 7. If Scales and Ladles be wanting, how many Dyameters of the shots height in powder will make a reasonable charge for any Piece assigned? A. For the Canon 2 ½, for Culvering 3, and for the Saker 3 ½, for lesser Pieces 4 Diametres of the Cillinder. For 3 Diametres make ⅔, and 3 ⅔ make ⅘, and 4 Diametres and ½ make the whole weight of a cast iron shot, it being corn powder; which length will also serve for the measure of Cartredges for the like Pieces. Q. 8. What proportions are between each of those sorts of powder, namely between 4.1.1. and 5.1.1. and 6.1.1. concerning their Forces? A. From the first of 4.1.1. to the second of 5.1.1. the proportion is as 6 to 7, viz. 1/7 difference. And from the first to the third of 6.1.1. is as 6 to 8, which is ¼, and the second to the third, is as 7 to 8, which is ⅛ in Force augmentingly more. Q. 9 What are the usual weights of each shot being either of Lead, Iron, or Stone? A. I have here set them severally down in manner of a Table, wherein the first Column signifieth the height of the Diametre of any shot between two and eight inches height, and the parts proceeding from quarter to quarter successively. Inches, Led, Iron, Stone. 2 1li. 11oz. 1li. 1oz. 0li. 7oz. 2 ¼ 2— 0 1— 9 0— 9 2 ½ 3— 0 2— 2 0— 12 2 ¾ 4— 3 2— 14 1— 0 3 5— 0 3— 12 1— 4 3 ¼ 6— 9 4— 12 1— 8 3 ½ 8— 1 6— 1 2— 0 3 ¾ 9— 14 7— 5 2— 7 4 11-5 8— 15 2— 13 4 ¼ 15-15 10-10 3— 10 4 ½ 17-15 12-10 4— 3 4 ¾ 21-5 14 14 5— 9 5 24-12 17-5 6— 3 5 ¼ 30 0 20-1 7— 8 5 ½ 35-10 23-2 8— 14 5 ¾ 39-9 26-6 10-10 6 45-0 30-0 11-4 6 ¼ 51-0 34-0 12-12 6 ½ 57-0 38-0 14-3 6 ¾ 63-0 42-0 15-12 7 72-0 48-0 17-10 7 ¼ 79 8 53-0 19-14 7 ½ 87-0 58-0 21-12 7 ¼ 96-0 64 0 24-0 8 106 72-10 26-12 Q. 10. How much is the height of the Boar, length of the Chase, weight of the Piece, weight of the powder, and length of the Ladle, proper to each Piece? A. I have here also set them down in a Table for the keeping them the better in memory, as followeth. Names of the Pieces, Height of Boar, Inches, Length in Diametres, Weight in Metal, Pounds, Weight of Powder, Length of the Ladles Inches. Cannon of 8 8 15 8000 40 li 24 Cannon of 7 7 16 7000 25 li 22 Demi Cannon 6 ½ 18 6000 20 li 21 Culvering 5 ½ 28 4500 15 li 20 Demi Culvering 4 ½ 32 2500 9 li 18 Saker 3 ½ 36 1500 5 li ¼ 16 Minion 3 ¼ 30 1200 3 li ¾ 15 Falcon 2 ¾ 42 700 2 li ½ 14 Falconet 2 ¼ 48 500 1 li ¼ 12 Cannon Perior 9.10.12 8 3500 3 li 3 li ⅓ 4 li 3 Demi Can Drake 6 ½ 16 3000 9 li 4 ½ Culvering Drake 5 ½ 16 2000 5 li 4 ½ Demi Cul. Drake 4 ½ 16 1500 3 li ½ 4 ½ Saker Drake 3 ½ 18 1200 2 li 4 ½ Q. 11. How and what is it to Tertiate and measure any Piece, and how much ought they to be in thickness of Metal at their Touch-holes, Truions, and Necks? A. There are three differences in Fortification of each sort of Ordnance, be they of the kinds of Cannons, or of Culuerings; For they are either ordinarily Fortified, or lessened, or double fortified, and common or Legitimate Pieces, Bastard Pieces, or Extraordinary Pieces. For the Cannon double Fortified, hath fully one Diametre in thickness of Metal at her Touchhole, and 11/16 at her Trunions, and 7/16 at her Neck, whereas the ordinary fortified Cannons have but ⅞ at at the Touchhole, and ⅝ at the Trunions, and but ⅜ at the Neck. And the lessened Cannons have at the Touchhole but ¾, and at the Trunions 9/16, and at the Neck 5/16. Now all the double fortified Culuerings, and all lesser Pieces of that kind, have one diametre and ⅛ in thickness of Metal at the Touchhole, and 15/16 at the Trunions, and 9/16 at the Neck. And the ordinary fortified Culuerings have like to the double fortified Cannons, but one diametre of Metal in thickness at the Touchhole, 11/16 at the Trunions, and 7/16 at the Neck. And the lessened Culuerings have ⅞ at the Touchhole, and at the Trunions ⅝, and at the Neck but ⅜, as the ordinary fortified Cannons have. Q. 12. What are the difference between the Common or Legitimate Pieces, and the Bastard Pieces, and the Extraordinary Pieces? A. Common or Legitimate Pieces are such Ordnance as have a due length of their Chases proportioned according to the height of their proper Boars, even as they are expressed in the last precedent Table, Bastard Pieces are such as have shorter Chases than the proportion of their Boar doth require: and Extraordinary Pieces, are such Ordnance as have longer Chases than the proportion of the Boar alloweth. And they are called Bastard Culuerings, and Extraordinary Culuerings, and so Bastard Saker Falcons, or Extraordinary Sakers or Falcons, etc. accordingly as their Boars come nearest to the Culvering, Saker, or Falcon Boars, etc. Q. 13. How will you find whether a Piece of Ordnance be clear from Flaws, Cracks, and Hony comb? A. Having first cleansed and cleared the Piece with a Wad-hook and Ladle, from all loading, foulness, dust and stones, which you may know by putting in the Rammer head up to the Breech, and with a priming iron put down into the Touchhole, if it take hold of the Rammer head, it is clear of loading and stones, than the Ladle and sponge will get out the dust. But to know whether any Cracks, Flaws, or Honeycombs be within her Chase or Chamber, put in an usual Searcher, made with two or three springs with points like great pins heads, bending outwards, which being bended together with your hand, until it will enter into the mouth of the Piece, and that put up to the bottom of the Boar, and turned round in the motion of pulling it in and out of the Chase; so if any Honeycombs be therein, it will stick with the points in the said Flaw, Crack or Honeycomb. Also in a sunshine day, with a lookingglass, the Sun beams may so be reflected into the Chase, as that all flaws, cracks and spongy Honeycombs may be discerned. Or if the Sun shine not, a Wax candle lighted and put upon the end of a half Pike, or a bright Sword, will also reflect the Sunbeams, as aforesaid. Now if no flaw be found, you may proceed to her proof, but if any be therein, that Piece is dangerous for breaking, and second lading, and had need to be carefully proved, and respectively handled, lest in Lading the second time, any fire remain therein to inflame the second Charge. Therefore, if any such Piece must needs be used, you must notneglect to sponge her well first, with a wet sponge. And also after spunging, advisement taken, not to allow such Pieces the ordinary lading of powder, but with discretion an abatement must be made, more or less, according as the fault or defect is found to be more or less. Q. 14. What if the mouth of a Piece be grown wider than the rest of her Chase within, by means of wearing, how will you choose shot sit for her? A. I will try with several Rammers heads, or if need be, Face them by little and little, until I thereby find the lowest boar within the Chase (except the Camber be Taper-bored, as the Drakes and some Periors are) and then fit my shot to that lowest boar, always allowing 1/20 of that height for vent. Q. 15. What if you be commanded to serve with a Piece that hath lain long charged, that either the shot is grown fast to the inside of the Piece with rust, or the shot being torted too high, or oval doth stick by the way, and so may be dangerous for Piece, and Gunner discharging it? A. I will not adventure to discharge a Piece so long loaded, as I may not know what accidents since have happened, but with a Wad-hooke will draw the Wad, and try with the Ladle to draw or move the shot; which if I cannot do, I will first elevate her, and pour warm water in at her mouth (and stop the Touchhole) to dissolve the Petre, and eight or ten hours after, I will unbase her, (setting a vessel under her mouth) to receive the liquor that shall drain out; then a day or two after I will put in a small quantity of dry powder at the Touchhole, and try if I can blow out the shot therewith, if not, I will then pour in warm oil and vinegar, and turn her round, so that the upper side may be side-wise and downwards in that motion; then with her Ladle or Rammer, or both, I shall doubtless loosen the shot, and so draw it, or blow it out, otherwise the Piece will be ever after unserviceable without new founding. Q. 16. What Instruments are most fit for a Gunners use? A. The Callibre Compasses, Height-boord, Inch sight-rule, Gunners Scale, Gunners Quadrant divided into ninety degrees, and into twelve points and their minutes, with a Geometrical square to take mountures, levels, heights, breadths, and distances, and a pair of strait pointed Compasses. Q. 17. How do you dispart a Piece or Ordnance, what is it, and to what end used? A. To dispart a Piece, is to find the difference between the Diametres or thickness in metal before at the Muzle-ring, and abaft at the Basering, for in true bored Pieces the half of the difference of their Diametres is the due dispart. Those Diametres are readily found by the Callibre Compasses opened and applied to the opposite sides of those Rings, and to a Scale or Inch-rule of small equal parts, whereby the difference will soon appear, which halfed is the dispart found. Their Diametres differences also may be found by guirting them with a label of parchment or cord, that will not shrink nor stretch, dividing the girt in three equal parts at each time, ⅓ may be tolerably accepted for the Diametre. Also in true equal bored Pieces, putting in a Priming iron at the Touchhole, to the bottom of the boar, and marking a place upon it equal in height to the Base-rings highest part, which applied upon the bottom of the bore at the mouth, perpendicularly, will show the length of the dispart above the highest of the Muzle-ring. Likewise you may find both those Diametres by laying a rule or strait staff levelly, making a Tangent on each of those Rings severally, and on each side of the Piece holding a plummet line, so that it only touch the sides of the metal of each Ring, the differences between those Diametres so found halfed, is the dispart sought. It may be found many other ways, but these being sufficient, I will only answer concerning the end and use thereof. It serveth to direct the shot to the mark, or so near as is the distance between the two parallels that are made by the two continued lines, the one the Axis of the boar, the other the visual line that passeth from the Gunner's eye by the highest part of the Basering and top of the Dispart unto the mark. For seeing the Breech of the Piece is of solid metal, not so transparent that the Gunner can visually apply the Axis of the bore precisely to the mark, it must suffice to find the other visual line, being the nearest that can parallelly betaken thereunto, and accept it, for the same. Q. 18. How much will you allow for vent, comparing the height of the shot with the height of the bore of the Piece assigned? A. One twentieth part will be sufficient, approved so to be by the best Gunners of late times, although many Gunners of England generally allow a quarter of an inch for each shot to be lower than the bore of of every Piece, which is too little for a Cannon, but too much for a Falcon, and for lesser Pieces. Q. 19 What difference is there between shooting by the metal of the Piece, and by the Dispart, to direct a Piece to a mark level or elevated? A. Their differences are somewhat uncertain, because there are seldom any constant proportions held in founding Ordnance, concerning the eminencies of their Base and Muzle-rings; but in most Pieces they are so, that first laying the Piece to the mark with a due Dispart, and then by the metal, observing with a Quadrant, you shall sometimes find that the Piece will be elevated more by the metal, then by the Dispart, four degrees, five degrees, yea sometimes six or seven degrees. And so accordingly will the Randons' of the metal be more than the Randons' of the Dispart, which (by the Table of dead Ranges for each degree here annexed, or by the Gunner's Scale) may for every elevation be made certainly known. But on the level the metal rangeth near double the distance of the Dispart, in most Pieces. A Table of Randons', or Dead Ranges, for every degree unto the best Random, or forty degrees. Degrees, Paces Degrees, Paces Degrees, Paces Degrees, Paces 1 500 11 1487 21 2225 31 2712 2 610 12 1575. 22 2285 32 2747 3 717 13 1655 23 2342 33 2780 Degr. Paces. 4 822 14 1735 24 2397 34 2810 41 2990 5 925 15 1812 25 2450 35 2837 42 3000 6 1025 16 1887 26 2500 36 2872 7 1122 17 1960 27 2547 37 2195 8 1218 18 2030 28 2592 38 2920 9 1310 19 2097 29 2635 39 2955 10 1400 20 2162 30 2675 40 2988 Q. 20. How shall a Gunner know how the Range of his Piece increaseth, or decreaseth, from degree to degree? A. First, he must find by the Table or Right ranges, expressed in the Art of Great Artillery, or otherwise; how much the level right range of your Piece is, which number of paces divide by 25, and multiply the Quotient by 11, and the product will be the first and greatest digression, which is between the first and second degrees, which divide by forty the degrees contained between the first degree and 42 degrees, the best or utmost Randon, and the Quotient shall be the number of paces that the shot shall lose at every digression from degree to degree to the best Random, and contrariwise for their increasing digression from 42 degrees, the utmost Randon down to the first degree. Q. 21. At how many degrees of Mounture, will any Piece convey her shot farthest, called her utmost Random? A. At about 42 degrees, nevertheless, that 45 hath formerly been generally taken for the best or utmost Randon, being the middle or mean degree between the level and the perpendicular, namely, the halfe of ninety degrees: But because the Piece on the level Rangeth a shot about one tenth part of the utmost Random, as it doth also at 84 degrees of Mounture; therefore it stands with more reason, and experience also hath found, that the utmost Random of any Piece should be (being duly charged and discharged) at 42 degrees, the half of 84 degrees of elevation. Q. 22. How do you direct your Piece to shoot at a work, being for distance, within the Strait line, or Right range of the Piece, and lying level with the Horizon? A. Having placed the due Dispart upon the Muzle-ring, as in my 17 Answer before is showed. Then (both my thumbs being placed close over the uppermost point or part of the metal of the Basering) I will cause the Piece to be traversed, and coined more or less, until I espy (thorough between my thumbs) the top of the Dispart and the mark to be in one, and then I give fire and expect a good and fair shot. Q. 23. But how will you direct a Piece of Ordnance to shoot at a mark that lieth level, but is further distant than the Piece can reach upon her level Range, you having only some certain dead range, and the distance from that Piece to the mark given; what advantage will you take to reach the mark, to make a fair shot at the first time? A. Having a certain Dead range for any elevation of that Piece given, I repair to my Gunner's Scale, or to the last precedent Table of Randons' or Dead ranges, with the Rule of Proportion, saying, if the number of the Paces of the Dead range given, do give the elevation given, what shall the Distance given, give; multiply the third number by the second, and divide the product by the first, and the Quotient will be the number of degrees that the Piece must be mounted unto, to reach that mark. Q. 24. What if the mark be elevated above the level, and be farther distant than the Piece upon that mounture can reach in a Right range: How will you direct your Piece for advantage, having the Distance and some certain Dead range of that Piece given? A. First, either by my Gunners Scale for degrees, or by the Table following, for the six points of the Gunners Quadrant, whereby you may see the uttermost Dead range being 3000 Paces, that the aspect of the first point cutteth the Range of the second point at 1880 Paces of the level, and the third Range at 2330 Paces, etc. And that the aspect of the second point intersecteth the Range of the third point at 1950 Paces. Ranges Aspects 1 1 2 3 4 5 2 1880 0 0 0 0 3 2330 1950 0 0 0 4 2650 2340 1890 0 0 5 2860 2650 2330 1900 0 6 3000 2960 2500 2090 1650 And the Range of the fourth point at 2340, etc. And that the Aspect of the third point doth interfect the fourth Points Range at 1890, and the fifth Points Range at 2330, and the sixth at 2500 Paces. And that the Aspect of the fourth point intersecteth the fifths Range at 1900 Paces, and the sixths at 2090. And lastly, that the Aspect of the fifth point cutteth the sixths Range at 1650, As the Diagram doth also ocularly show. Q. 25. How make you use of the Scale and Table? A. As in the former by the Rule of Proportion, saying, if the dead Range give the Tabular number of dead Ranges proper thereunto, what shall the number of the Scale Diagram, or of this Table, proper to the Aspect and Range cut, give; multiply the third number by the second, and divide the product by the first, and the Quotient will be the number of Paces proper for the Piece and mark assigned. Q 26. How will you endeavour to shoot farther than ordinary in one and the same Piece, with like quantities of powder and shot? A. First I will gently put home all the Powder, and wad the same; then the shot being involved with paper, leather, okam, or such like, to fill close the concave of the Boar, I will drive the shot close to the Powder with a good wad, putting after it a Tempion of cork, and with a sponge a little moistened with an oil, I will anoint the vacant Cillinder of the rest of the concave Chase; and will so baricado the Breech of the Piece with a Pile, wall, or such like, as that it shall not reverse in the discharge: But especially, if I have time, I will stop the Touchhole, and drill a new one more forwards, which will make the Powder all to fire, and sooner together, and the Piece reverselesse, if it be rightly done. Q. 27. What Piece would you choose to shoot at a single mark, and what course will you observe? A. I would choose such a Piece as I had sormerly practised to shoot in, and yet examine her to know her qualities: then in loading her, I will not ram home her Powder too hard, lest it in taking fire lie first blowing, and cause the Piece to start from her position, duly directed by a true disparture, that the Axis of her Boar may precisely respect the mark. And lastly endeavour to prevent all impedimentall Accidents. Q. 28. If you were to make a shot in the night, at a mark shown you in the day, how would you prepare for it? A. I would first lay the Piece in her Carriage precisely to the mark in the day, then with a Chalke-line dipped in Gum-water, I will strike a right line on the upper part of the metal from Breech to Muzzle (while the line is yet moist) upon which I will apply a good and sure Magnetical needle or fly, with a Chart exactly divided, and note the intersetion, then from the ends of the line that was marked or stricken upon the metal I let fall plum-lines upon the Platform, and at the places where they touch, I knock in at each a small nail. Lastly, with a Quadrant I observe the elevation of the concave; or else with some Staff take the perpendicular height of some certain place or mark made in the metal, as well at the Breech, as at the Muzzle above the said two nails: And so you may again lay the Piece thereby, always to have the selfsame position, and so shoot as certain at that mark by night as by day. Q. 29. How would you make a shot at an Enemy's light, in a dark night, not having any Candle, Lanthorne, or other light by you? A. I would light two pieces of match, the one as much longer than the other as the quantity of the dispart of the Piece, & set the longer upon the upper part of the Muzle-ring, & the shorter upon the upper part of the Basering, traversing or coining the Piece until I have brought the light of the Enemies, and the lights of the two matches, all three in one; and so I doubt not but to make a good shot thereat. Q. 30. How would you choose and order a Piece, to make a good shot at a movable mark; as at an enemy's Ship under sail, Boat rowing, or Horseman riding? A. First would I choose such a Piece (as in regard of the distance, will be able in a strait line to reach the mark) whose qualities I know. Secondly, having loaded the Piece, I observe how the Mark moveth. Thirdly, I will observe the wind (if it blow much) whether it be against, or with, me, or sideways, and accordingly take advantage, for the impediment it may produce otherwise. Then will I, with the Dispart considered, duly observe some cloud, or mark some point of Landscape that lieth in the course of his motion; and when according to the swiftness thereof, he is come so near it, as I guess the shot and he may meet at the mark, I so give fire, wherein I may remember this secret of Nature, that any Piece will shoot further from Sea to Land-ward, then from Land to Sea-wards. Q. 31. What say you to shooting at a mark under the level from above downwards, how would you order matters to make an effectual shot? A. That kind of shooting is fare more uncertain and difficile than any other, by reason of the smaller resistance the shot makes against the force of the powder, naturally working upwards, which is towards the Breech, if it were not there restrained, it therefore of all other ways shooteth least distance in a strait line, unless it be perpendicularly downwards, or nearly so; beside, no Author or Practitioner else, to my knowledge, hath diuulged any good use or order for the same. But I have observed that the Randons' for Imbasures do somewhat nearly decrease from degree to degree under the level, with a double proportion to the decrease of the Mortar Pieces mounture, above from the best Random unto ninety degrees. Out of which observation and experience I have framed this Table, and for better help added an example. A Table for Imbasures. Degrees, Paces 0 150 1 149 2 147 3 145 4 142 5 139 6 137 7 133 8 129 9 125 10 120 20 90 30 60 40 40 50 18 60 10 70 6 80 1 90 0 The use illustrated by example. At eight degrees Imbasement a shot at a mark being to be made with a Saker (for which Piece the Table was made) if the distance were less than 129 Paces, than the Piece being able to reach the mark needs no advantage: but supposing it to be 140 Paces, a less Imbasement must be then given, namely, at about seven degrees, to reach the mark, as reason will conduce. Q. 32. Can you make a reasonable shot at a mark, which by reason of interposition of some hill, house, wall, Rampart, or other impediment, you cannot see it? A. Yes, with a Mortar Peece it is usual, if it be within her reach. And although the catriages of other Pieces, will few, admit to mount them so high as 20 degrees, yet by sapping the Breech of the Piece, that is, by making a trench for the tail of the carriage to reverse in, being descended thereinto the wheels standing aloft: or by preparing a Timber-frame, so that the tail may be sunk, as between two Timber-logs squared, the wheels reversing upon them, any Piece may be so mounted to shoot at a mark out of sight, further than any Mortar Piece can reach, or by taking a Piece out of her carriage, and mounting her accordingly upon skids at pleasure to the elevation desired; these may shoot Granades, Flaming or Venomous balls, and Hedge hegs or such like most necessarily. But amongst them the Canon Periors, Perieraes and Bombards, are chief to be therefore preferred. Having then the distance given, Stales and Signals are to be placed, to show where the mark is, which way, and how the shot lighteth short, over, or wide, that such error may at the next time be reform. Q. 33. How would you order things, to shoot at a Squadron of the Enemy's Soldiers, and what Pieces would you choose? A. According to the distance I would choose a Piece that in a strait line can shoot home, if I may, be it with Demy Culvering, Saker or Falcon, and plant my Piece as near parallel to the champion Plain as I can, that the shot may range, and shoot at girdle height, unless the ground be stony, for than would I place my shot short of them, that grazing amongst the stones, that stones may do them more spoil than the shot of itself can do, by fare; but in no case would I shoot wide, or over them, for that were both loss and shame also. Q. 34. At the time of joining of two Armies in Battle, how would you plant and mount your Ordnance? A. There are diverse opinions therein; some say it is best to plant them in the Front, to disorder the Enemy, and cause them to break their Ranks at first; which others disliking, say, that will hinder their own party from many advantages, and difficult to retire them: some would plant them in the Flanks: And some would have some of them in the Front, & some in the Flank: And lastly, some would have them behind the Army, that upon a sign given, their own Squadrons may open a way for the Gunner to play upon the Enemy's Troops or Squadrons. But wheresoever they are planted, care must be had, that the Musketeers, appointed for guards, nor any other fire arms, approach within 100 Paces of the Ordnance, lest untimely firing them work mischief to the party. But having viewed beforehand the place appointed for the Battle, if any eminent rising-place be there near, to lodge the Ordnance thereon, they may thence most safely play upon the Enemy in Front, Flank and Travers, with wonderful advantage and hope of victory. Q. 35. Having found the first shot faulty, to the right or left hand, over or short, how will you at the next amend it, to make an effectual shot? A. If it were wide, towards the right or left hand, I would place my eye on the Basering, at the next time, a little more to the same side, accordingly more or less: if it were too high, direct the top of the Dispart under the mark as much: if too low, lay some small stone or straw on the highest of the Basering, and by that, bring the dispart and the Mark into one with discretion. Q. 36. What if the Piece by often shooting be grown so hot that it is dangerous, unless it be rested or refreshed; how will you cool her? A. If the service be such, as she may not have time to rest, in that case, she must be cooled with Sponges wet in Lee, which is best, or in urine and water, or water and vinegar, or with the coolest fresh or salted water; bathing and washing her within and without, until she be come to her due temper again; but if I may, I will rest her one or two hours in twelve, and between whiles cool her every tenth or twelfth shot. Q. 37. If the Touchhole be cloyed with spikes, stones or such like, and necessity requireth the use of the Piece, what would you do therein? A. Not trust to that which some appoint, by beating her on the Muzzle with a wooden mallet, having poured warm oil in at her Touchhole, to expect her doying to fly out; nor to the setting of her Breech upright, with her mouth over a fire, until she be red-hot, and then (her metal being soft) to get out her cloying; but if I cannot blow it out, nor have time to drill another new touchhole more forwards, I must load her with powder and shot without wadding, and by a fusee, wet vent, or powder moistened into paste, placed at the mouth, so as it may fire a train within the Chase that I will there make to fire the charge, to avoid danger as much as I can, so I will give fire to the vent, having formerly laid my Piece to the mark, as I have already said. Q. 38. If you be so driven, that of necessity you must leave your Ordnance to the Enemy, what would you do either with hope to recover them, or else to make them. unserviceable, or break the next time they shall be discharged? A. If I have no conveniency to hide them so secretly, by burying them under ground, as that the Enemy shall not find them, or be past hope that we may never come to the place to recover them: Then would I lay all the Pieces cross a narrow ditch or trench, filled so with charcoals, or other dry fuel, to kindle, and heat them thoroughly red-hot a good space, which will cause the metal to become so brittle afterwards, being cold, that they will not be able to endure the due charge of powder to be fired in them, but will break in pieces at their next discharge; or I can break them either in that brittle place, by applying them with hard strokes of a heavy commander, or by loading each Piece with more than a double charge, and under and about the shot driving steel wedges with rammers of hard wood, so that having fired the Piece with a fusee or slow pyramid of powder moistened like paste; the shot in discharge running upon the thicker parts of the wedges will constrain the Piece to break: I know diverse other ways with a touch to break or spoil the Enemy's Ordnance, but I think it not fit to speak of it publicly. Q. 39 Being besieged, to resist assaults and defend the place, what Ordnance are best, and where placed, and how used? A. All Ordnance are useful, but for defence at a breach or narrow passage, Canon Periors, loaded with Lanterns, filled with pebble stones, Cases of Base and Burr, old iron trash chained, langrell, cross bar, plugs, or any other tearing or murdering shot, or with a mine in their way to blow up & the like; & planting the Ordnance covert so, as to scour the passage from a Flanker Cassamat or other defence, or before the Breach. Also my new invented Murderers, that have long square tapering concaves, which are double or triple in breadth to their heights, and will spread their murdering shot, Musket or Pistol bullets, sidewise far, but little up and downwards (without fear of stop or cloying the Chase, as in equal round Pieces oft happeneth, when they are charged with small lose shot or trash.) Also I will carefully provide to have in store, spare Carriages, Axtrees, Wheels, Cordage, Match, Powder, and Shot sufficient; the rather, because always the Enemy will chief endeavour to ruin our Defences, embouch our Loops, beat down our Parapets and Defences, cloy our Platforms, dismount our Ordnance, tear our Carriages, Axtrees and wheels with their Pieces, by all the means they can possible. Q. 40. You having beleagerd or besieged a Fort or Town, how would you shoot to ruin, anney, or take away the enemies Defences; and what would you chief endeavour to do? A. First, I would make choice of places to plant my Ordnance, or make my Batteries so against the weakest parts, to make a Breach in the most convenient place, bringing them by Trenches, as near as I can, within less than two hundred Paces; and then having raised and plained the Terraplenes and Parapets, made the Platforms, cut and set out Loops, or placed the Gabbions the whilst, and planted Pieces where they may most offend the Enemy, endcuouring to ruin and embouch their Defences, plying them so hard, that they may not have time to repair the old, nor build new, nor retrench, as they else would do. And also make what slaughter I can, to weaken the Adversary: and from each Battery fit, to shoot at the place for Breach, as many Pieces at once as can be brought to bear thereon: and I will observe what Pieces of theirs, most endamage us & ours, and endeavour to dismount them, and amaze and hinder their works all I may. The distances of the Batteries must be according as the situation of the place will permit, but if possible, at eighty, an hundred, or an hundred and fifty Paces at most, avoiding the danger of the Enemy's Musketeers with convenient Defences: the number of Pieces and the sorts of them, are to be according to the place and the occasions to use them; Cannon, Demy Cannon and Culvering for Breach, and a Demy Culvering or two, to play upon the Enemy's Defences, with a Field-peece or two for single marks. The Breadth of a Battery must be according to the length of the Curtin, and the number of Soldiers that must give the assault, that nine in a rank may at least enter together. Q. 41. What Fireworks are most ordinary and fit for warlike service, to spoil or annoy the Enemy most? A. Granades or hollow breaking balls of several sorts, Fire-balles for diverse uses, as to enlighten the champion, stick and burn combustible objects, burn and break poison, or blind the Enemy, burn in the water, or pierce the flesh to the bone, where it fired, toucheth, Powder-pots simple and compound, Armed Trunks, with Pistols, Fire arrows, barbed Garlands, Rulers, Firepikes, and such likeinuentions. Q. 42. Of what materials are the Granado balls made, and what receipts are they loaded with, and how armed? A. As they are for diverse ends (though all to destroy the Enemy) so they are made of several materials, as of Bell-metall, spelter, Iron, or any hard and brittle metal. To be shot also out of a Mortar Piece or Perior, & may also be thrown with the hand amongst the Enemies: some are made of baked Potter's clay, or of Glass, and some of Canvas coated and armed: The receipts are also diverse, as Powder four ounces, Sulphur two ounces, Salpetre twelve ounces, finely beaten and well mixed; sometimes Antimoney and glass, and Scales or Iron: but let a brittle ball be filled with powder, one pound, within two fingers height, and the rest with Cannon powder four ounces, and Salpetre twelve ounces, mixed and driven close together, enclose this in Canvas, with the mouth or priming-hole downwards, and fill it, as a ball, with powder two parts, Sulphur one part, and Salpetre three parts; pierce a hole to fire at, and put into it a pin of wood, and coat it with Roch-fire, or Roch sulphur: also Powder ½ li, Peetre 1 li & ½, Sulphur four ounces, is an usual receipt: they may be made of two hollow Demy Globes of wood, bored full of holes almost thorough, having thence a touchhole, each hole loaded with a Pistol bullet, the concave filled with fine powder, and a pipe of wood coated to reach to the bottom, filled with slower receipt, they may be loaded with Pistoll-pipes of iron, and powder, and bullets at each end, and a touchhole in the midst, their coating may be stuck full of stones, nails, shot, or such like: These are of great execution, but must ever be so provided, that the slow fire must be sure to burn until the ball fired be arrived at the place where it is to do its execution; of this kind there are infinite diversities and inventions. Q. 43. What is that Roch-sulpher, and Reeh fire? A. Receipts of much use; Roch-sulpher is made with one pound of Sulphur melted on a slow fire, and ¼ li of mealed powder, put thereto by little and little, and stirred well together, and in the cooling put three ounces more of corn powder, mixing them well together. Roch-fire is made of three pound of Sulphur gross beaten, and slowly melted, to which put one pound of mutton suet, and thereto Powder & Salpetre equally mixed, with these you may cover or coat Granades, Pikes, Circles, Balls, Trunks, and Arrows. Q. 44. What receipts for Lances, Trunks and Firepikes use you, and how make you them? A. The forms and receipts also are diverse; for one may be of Powder and Sulphur, of each one pound, Salpetre three pound, Quicksilver melted with Sulphur four ounces, Glass three ounces, each beaten to powder, and tempered with Linseed oil, boiled until it will scald a feather, put therein; these put in Canvas, narrow at both ends, fitting for Pikes or Arrows, must after be put on, and armed either with Wire or Marline, and coated with Roch-fire, or other coating, or Canvas dipped in Pitch and Tallow melted, Sulphur, , and Turpentine. Lances are little different, only less; Trunks are also of many sorts, most commonly made of wood, armed with iron hoops, they may be eighteen inches long, besides six inches bored in for the staff, which is to be ten or twelve loot long, the eitghteene inches bored, two inches and ½ may be filled with Sulphur and Powder, of each one pound, Quicksilver two ounces, Camphor one ounce, which beat with the Sulphere will become powder, mix these with Linseed oil, boiled as aforesaid, wowld it with Marlin, coat it and fill it with a handful of this receipt, then with a handful of powder, then with a button or with small shot; cover the end with a waxed or pitched Canvas, having a Match or Sulphur thread go through all. Another receipt is Cannon powder five parts refined, Petre three parts, Sulphur two parts, one part, Campheer, Glass, Amber, and Mastic mealed and seared, of each ½ part, well mixed with oils of Turpentine, Petre, Linseed, and liquid varnish, of each ½ part. Another, take Powder three parts, Sulphur one part, Salpetre three parts, Mastic one part, Vitriol, white Wax, of each six parts, Amber, Orpiment, Arsenic, 4 parts, Verdegrease, Salarmoniak, each 2 parts, mixed with oils of Linseed, Petre, Varnish, and Aquavitae, of each six parts, and well wrought, will be a receipt of great vehemency in burning. Q. 45. What are your Fire-balls? A. They are also of sundry sorts and uses, some to light so, in the night, as to see what the Enemy worketh abroad; make a round ball of Canvas, and fill it either with Powder mealed, Sulphur, Salpetre, and Roch-sulpher, of each one pound, mixed and pressed hard & close, and made round, it being sewed, armed, pierced, primed, & coated with Roch-fire, rolled in corn powder, or with Roch-sulpher molten, 1 li, Salpetre 2 li, Powder 1 li, and ½, and Turpentine each ½ li; these primed through in four places, and shot out of a Mortar or Perior without wad, will take fire and burn very light. Some balls are to burn in the water, for which take of Powder 12 oz, Sulphur 6 oz, mixed, Campher 1 oz, pasted with boiled Linseed oil, and oil of Turpentine and new Wax, of each 4 oz mixed with coal 4 oz, Salpetre and Roch-fire, of each 1 oz, and ½; this made in a ball, armed, primed, and coated, will not be exstinguished by Air, Wind, nor Water. Another, for a Mortar Piece, take a stone shot, lower far than the Boar, dip it in molten Pitch, Sulphur, and Turpentine mixed equal parts; then being warm, roll it in corn powder, with a cover of Fustian dipped in molten Roch-fire, and dip it as at first, roll it and cover it, until it be of fit height for the Piece: lastly, dip it in Roch-fire, and roll it in fine corn powder, and shoot it out of the Piece without a Wadd, loaded with 8/10 of its weight in powder, and priming it down to the shot with quick powder. Q. 46. What are Powder-pots, Pluggs and Cressets? A. Powder Pots are of baked Potter's Clay, or thick glass made with four ears; unto which Matches lighted at both ends are to be fastened, which filled with powder or quick receipt, thrown among the Enemy, breaks and takes fire, and makes spoil. Pluggs are to be shot out of Ordnance like billets but at one end, have barbed heads of iron to stick, and at the other, Ropes dipped in Sope-lee and dried to fly, and not fire; yet the former receipt placed near the barbed head, will fire any combustible thing it toucheth or sticks in. Cressets are iron hoops hanged on poles, to be level in all motions, and they are filled with toosed match, soaked in Sulphur melted 3 li, Salpetre 1 li, 12 oz, Olibanum, and Antimony of each ½ li, and Linseed oil to incorpotate them together; if you will have them resist wind and rain, fill the hollows with match well beaten, and soaked in Sulphur and Powder moistened with boiled Linseed oil, and powder of quick Lime and Campher mixed; And fired, it resists wind & water: but to hurt the Enemy's eyes, or to poison them, or make flesh fall from the bones, is not fit here to be published. Q. 47. What are Fireworks of Triumph, for pleasure, and how, and with what receipts and conceits made? A. The fashions, inventions, and compositions of them are infinite, but yet they may be doubly distinguished as their actions are double, either in the air or water: those that make their operation in the air are either movable or fixed; the movable are either simple or compounded: the simple movable, are the Rockets, the simple fixed, are the Trunks, Lanterns and Lights, with several sorts of each: The moveables compounded, are the Wheels, Trillers, Courtlaces, Clubs, Targets and flying Dragons: The compound fixed, are the Towers, Castles, Arches, Cilinders, Pyramids, and others, which of every sort are as infinite, as the variety of inventions may be infinitely conceived and wrought. Those that work their effect in the water, either are fired and placed in it, or kindled by the water itself, and they do either swim on the surface, as the Rockets, Tumbling-balls, Serpents, Dolphins, Ships, etc. or else burn at the bottom, as many weighty works do; some of which, when they are lighted, and become lighter than so much water, they ascend, swim, and burn above. Q. 48. How are those that operate in the air, usually to be made and compounded? A. The movable airy Fireworks are either Rockets, or made and contrived with Rockets, they being the substructure of all the other motions: Rockets are diversely framed, either of paper six or seven times double, rolled about a former, or they may be of strong light timber turned hollow, or bored, or they may be made of Canvas, in length 6 times the height of their hollowness (if they be under the weight of one pound) but if they be of more weight then sour and ½ or five Diametres, long will be better. Also for small Rockets they must have the quicker receipts, and for great, flower: As for example, the receipt for Rockets of four ounces, may be of Powder 4 li, Salpetre 1 li, Coals 4 oz, Sulphur ½ oz; but for Rockets of a pound weight or two, take Salpetre 12 oz, of Powder 20 oz, of Coal 3 oz Sulphur vive and Scales of iron, each 1 oz, and Rockets of 8, 9, or 10 li. weight, to 8 li of Salpetre, put 2 li 12 oz of Coal, and 1 li 4 oz of Sulphur; For in the great ones no Powder must be put, note that these materials must be finely beaten & sifted thorough a Searce, and well mixed & driven into the Rocket hard, and filled almost to the top every third or fourth driving, dipping your drift in Gum tragacanth, and Campher, dissolved and mixed with spirit of wine or good Aquavitae (if the Rockets be to be fired in three or sour days) but if it must be a month or more first; then, in stead thereof, dip the drift so in oil of Petre or liquid Varnish and Linseed oil mixed; if you would have therein any breakers or Buttons, you must within one Diametre of the top drive a bottom of leather, or six or seven double of paper, up to the receipt, and pierce and prime it thorough, thereunto in sour or five places; and you must also arm your Cane and bored Rockets lest they split: and your flyers must have a strait rod fastened so, that within one or two fingers breadth of the Rocket it may counterpoise the same, for the Runners swivels or a Cane fastened is sufficient. Q. 49. How make you the Stars? A. Take ½ oz of Gum-dragagant and lap it in Crooked-lane black iron plate, and roast it in the embers, till it may be beaten to powder, then dissolve it in Aquavita till it be viscous or slimy, then strain it, and also take 4 oz of Campheer, steep it 24 hours in other Aquavitae until it be dissolved, mix the dissolutions together, and by little and little sprincklingly, therewith mix these, powdered Salpetre 1 li, Sulphur ½ li, Powder 3 li, Coals ½ li, Amber and Scales of iron, of each 1 li, and mix them all over a gentle fire of Charre-coales, and make them in balls as big as you would have them, and roll them in mealed powder and Sulphur: you may without the Gum and Campher moisten the same powder, only with liquid Varnish, Linseed oil, or oil of Petre; but the first, is the fairer fire for Stars. The heads of Rockets may be loaded with many things, as with powder strongly lapped and armed in Paper or Parchment, with raining fire, with morsels of Roch-fire or horse-haires dipped therein melted, Rockets may also be made with Barbes, to stick and burn whatsoever they light upon, and as a shot, they may by a device be directed to any place within distance assigned. Now in regard that all movable Fireworks, in Air or Water, have their motions from the force of the Rockets applied accordingly; I need not speak of them particularly, but leave each practiser to his own ingenious invention. Q. 50. What are your compositions or receipts for Water, Fires, to burn as well at the top, as at the bottom, and of those that water will kindle, or that will last long fired? A. Take Mastic one part, white Incense, Gum Sandrach, quick Lime, Sulphur, Bitumen, Camphor and Gunpowder, of each three parts, two parts, and Salpetre nine parts. The Campheer must be beaten either with Sulphur, Salt, Almonds, or water, else it will not be mealed. This will burn and feed upon in the water. But to make a receipt to burn at the bottom, fill a ball with this receipt, Take Sulphur, ½ li, mealed powder nine ounces, refined Salpetre one pound, and ½, Campher beaten with Sulphur and Quicksilver, put and stirred into the Sulphur a little molten, all mealed and mixed by hand, and filled into a round Canvas ball, by little and little, and well driven, being first moistened with oil of Petre, or Linseed oil boiled until it will scald a feather; then arm the Ball, and prime it, ballast it with Lead at the bottom, that the vent may burn upwards, or a stone to sink it, and (having fired it well) throw it into the water, and it will burn at the bottom thereof, and fume and boil up slow. Now for as much as all the beforenamed fireworks, both movable and fixed, are but by the applications of these or the like, I shall not need (neither is it possible) to particular all the inventions and varieties that may be made therein: I will therefore conclude, omitting also perfumed savours and venomous scents that may be made in Fireworks, as not fit to be here revealed. Next for such receipts as the water itself will kindle, they are made of oil Benedict one pound, boiled Linseed oil three pounds, oil of the yolks of Eggs one pound, new Quicklime eight pounds, Sulphur two pound, Campheer four ounces, and Bitumen two ounces, Or else Roch-Petre one pound, Flowers of Sulphur nine ounces, Coals of Rotten-wood six ounces, Campheer one ounce and ½, oil of Eggs, and oil Benedict sufficient to passed the mixture, with new Lime unsleyked two pound, Or unsleikt Lime, Tutia, Roch-Petre, Loadstone, of each one part, Sulphur, Vive and Campheer, of each eight parts, put these things in a pot filled with quicklime in powder and lute, and arm it well with strong wires, and set it in a Lime-kill a whole burning time, and the materials will become a stone that any moisture will kindle. A receipt to carry fire always in a man's pocket, is this; Take Cowdung steeped sour or five times in spirits of Wine or Aquavitae, three times distilled, wherein Campheer must be dissolved; this must be well dried, being made into a Ball and kindled, it will last many days; it must be covered half an inch thick with unsleiked Lime, and the white of Eggs well mixed, and when you will use it, make a hole with a priming iron, and put a Sulphur match unto it, and it will light: And so Salpetre mixed with the powder of the coals of juniper, and the white of an Egg, will a long time last kindled. The Practice of Artillery is to be sold by Humphrey Robinson at the sign of the three Pigeons in Paul's Churchyard.