England, Wales, Scotland and Ireland Described and Abridged with the History Relation of things worthy memory from a far Larger Voulume Done by John Speed Anno Cum privilegio And are to be sold by Georg Humble at the White-horse in popeshead Alley A Catalogue of all the Shires, Cities, Bishoprickes, Market Towns, Castles, Parishes, Rivers, Bridges, 〈◊〉 Forests, and Parks, contained in every particular shire of the Kingdom of England. Shires. Cities Bishoprick●. Mark Towns Castles Parish Church Rivers Bridges Chases Forests. Parkes Kente 02 02 17 08 398 06 14 00 00 23 Sussex 01 01 18 01 312 02 10 00 04 33 Surrie 00 00 06 00 140 01 07 00 0 1/4 17 Middlesex 02 02 03 00 073 01 03 01 00 04 H●nt-shire 01 01 18 05 248 04 31 00 04 22 〈◊〉 shire 00 00 18 06 248 04 29 01 02 12 W●lt shire 01 01 21 01 304 05 31 01 09 29 Somerset shire 03 02 29 01 385 09 45 00 02 18 Devo● shire 01 01 40 03 394 23 106 00 00 23 Cor●●all 00 00 23 06 161 07 31 00 00 09 Essex 01 00 21 01 415 07 28 00 01 46 Hartford shire 00 00 18 00 120 01 24 00 00 23 Oxford shire 01 01 10 00 208 03 26 00 04 09 Buckingham sh. 00 00 11 00 185 02 14 00 00 15 Bark shire 00 00 11 01 140 03 07 00 0 3/4 13 Gloucester shire 01 01 20 01 280 12 22 01 02 19 Suffolk 00 00 28 01 464 02 32 00 00 27 Norfolk 01 01 26 00 625 03 15 00 00 00 Rutland 00 00 02 00 047 00 01 00 00 04 Northampton sh. 01 01 11 02 326 05 24 00 03 23 〈◊〉 shir 00 00 05 00 078 01 05 00 00 0● 〈◊〉 shir● 00 00 10 00 116 01 06 00 00 12 〈◊〉 shire 00 01 06 00 163 01 07 00 00 05 〈◊〉 shire 01 01 12 01 158 07 21 01 00 16 〈◊〉 shire. 00 00 11 02 200 01 10 00 02 13 〈◊〉 shire 01 00 12 05 130 13 10 01 01 38 Worcester shire 01 01 07 03 152 05 13 01 02 16 Shrop shire 00 00 13 13 170 18 13 00 07 27 Hereford shire 01 01 08 07 176 13 11 01 02 08 Lincoln shire 01 01 26 02 630 09 1● 00 00 13 Nottingham sh. 00 00 11 00 168 0● 17 00 01 18 Derby shire 00 00 08 04 106 13 21 00 01 34 Cheshire 01 01 09 03 068 09 19 00 02 18 York shire 01 01 46 14 563 36 62 04 08 72 Lancasshire 00 00 08 06 036 33 24 00 01 30 Durham 01 01 05 04 062 11 20 00 ●0 21 Westmoreland 00 00 04 06 026 08 15 00 02 1● Cumberland 01 01 08 15 058 20 33 00 03 08 Northumbrland 00 00 11 12 040 21 16 00 01 0● Mo●mouth 00 00 06 07 142 15 14 01 00 08 Glam●rgan 00 01 07 12 151 16 06 00 00 0● Radnor 00 00 04 05 043 ●3 05 00 03 ●● Brecknok 00 00 03 04 070 17 13 00 ●● ●● Cardigan 00 00 04 00 077 26 09 00 0● ●● Carmart●in 00 00 06 04 081 20 16 00 0● ●● Pembroke 00 01 06 05 142 06 07 00 0● ●● Montgomery 00 00 06 03 042 28 06 00 00 ●● Meri●●idth 00 00 03 02 034 26 07 00 00 00 Denbigh 00 00 03 03 053 24 06 00 00 06 Fluit shire 00 01 03 04 024 04 02 00 0● ●● Anglesey 00 00 03 00 083 08 02 00 00 00 Caer●arvon 00 01 05 03 073 17 06 00 00 00 THE GENERAL OF GREAT BRITAIN. CHAPTER I. THE State of every Kingdom well managed by prudent government, seems to me to represent a Humane Body, guided by the sovereignty of the Reasonable Soul: the Country and Land itself representing the one, the Actions and State-affairs the other. Sith therefore the excellencies of the whole are but unperfectly laid open, where either of these Parts is defective, our intendment is to take a view as well of the outward Body and Lineaments of the now-flourishing British Monarchy (the Lands) Kingdoms and Provinces thereof in actual possession, (for with others, no less justly claimed in the Continent, we meddle not) which shall be the content of our first or chorographical Tome, containing the four first Books of this our Theatre: as also of its successive government and vital actions of State, which shall be our second or Historical Tome, containing the five last Books. And here first we will (by example of the best Anatomists) propose to the view the whole Body and Monarchy entire (as far as conveniently we could comprise it) and after will dissect and lay open the particular Members, Veins, and joints, (I mean the Shires, Rivers, Cities, and Towns) with such things as shall occur most worthy our regard, and most behooveful for our use. (3) It is by experience found to lie included from the degree fifty, and thirty scruples of Latitude, and for Longitude extended from the 13. degree, and 20. minutes, unto the 22. and 50. minutes, according to the observation of Mercator. It hath Britain, Normandy, and other parts of France upon the South, the Lower Germany, Denmark, and Norway upon the East; the Isles of Orkney and the Deucaledonian Sea, upon the North; the Hebrides upon the West, and from it all other Lands and Ilets, which do scatteredly environ it, and shelter themselves (as it were) under the shadow of Great Albion (another name of this famous Island) are also accounted Britannish, and are therefore here described altogether. (4) Britain thus seated in the Ocean hath her praises, not only in the present sense, and use of her commodities, but also in those honourable Eulogies, which the learnedst of Antiquaries hath collected out of the noblest Authors, that he scarce seemeth to have left any glean: neither will 〈◊〉 transplant them out of his flourishing Gardens, but as necessity compels, sith nothing 〈…〉 or other●●● be●●● said. (5) That Britain therefore is the Seas High Admiral, is famously known: and the Fortunate Island supposed by some, as Robert of Anesbury doth show: whose air is more temperate (saith Caesar) than France; whose Soil bringeth forth all grain in abundance, saith Tacitus; whose Seas produce orient Pearl, saith Suetonius; whose Fields are the seat of a Summer Queen, saith Orpheus; her wildest parts free from wild beasts, saith the ancient Pa●●gyricke, and her chief City worthily named Augusta, as saith Ammianus: So as we may truly say with the royal Psalmist, Our lines are fallen in pleasant places, yea we have a fair inheritance. Which whatsoever by the goodness of God, and industry of man it is now, yet our English Poet hath truly described unto us the first face thereof, thus; The Land which warlike Britain's now possess And therein have their mighty Empire raised, In ancient times was savage Wilderness, Unpeopled, unmanured, vnprou'd, unpraisde. (6) And albeit the Ocean doth at this present thrust itself between Dove, and Calais, dividing them with a deep and vast entrenchment; so that Britain thereby is of a supposed 〈◊〉 made an Island: yet diverse have stiffly held, that once it was joined by an arm of land to the Continent of Gallia. To which opinion Spencer farther alluding, thus closeth his Stanza. Ne was it Island then, ne was it paisde Amid the Ocean waves, ne was it sought Of Merchants far, for profits thererem praised, But was all desolate, and of some thought By Sea to have been from the Celticke Mainland brought. 〈…〉 as a matter merely conjectural (because it is not plain that there 〈…〉 Land's nor hills before Noah's flood) I leave at large: Virgil surely (of all Poets the most learned) when describing the Shield which Vulcan forged (in Virgil's brain) for Aeneas, he calls the Morini (people about Calais) the outmost men, doth only mean that they were Westward, the furthest Inhabitants upon the Continent, signifying withal that Britain as being an Island, lay out of the world: but yet not out of the knowledge of men, for the Commodities thereof invited the famous Greek Colonies of Merchants, which dwelled at Massilia in France, to venture hither, as hath been well observed out of Strabo. (7) And as julius Caesar was the first Roman which ever gave an attempt to conquer it, so will we close its praises with a late Epigram, concerning the outward face of the Isle, and the motive of Caesar's coming. ALBIONIS vertex frondoso cri●e superbit. Arboreas frondes plurimas ales habet. Graminean Montes & ●undunt paseva p●●em; Et carpunt, circum paseva, gramenoves: Sed LATII caruit potioribus Insula donis, Victori potior Gloria ni LATIO. Albion's high tops her woody locks far show, With quires of chanting Birds these Woods resounding. Her Downs and Meadows cladin verdant hue, Meadows and Downs with flocks and herds abounding. Latium had greater Wealth, yet Caesar thought, To British Glory, Latiums' Wealth worth nought. (8) The division of Britain concerning the government and Territories thereof; at such time 〈◊〉 Caesar here arrived, doth not sufficiently appear. Caesar himself makes so sparing mention therein, that we have little cause to believe Florus, where he makes Lavie say, that after Caesar had slain 〈…〉 multitude of Britain's, he subdued the residue of the I'll, but rather with exquisite Hora●e, that he did not at all touch them, as the word intactus doth in him purport. (9) Kings they were, and therefore that division which was here in Caesar's time, was into Kingdoms; the old names of whole Nations, as also the knowledge of their several abodes, hidden under the rabbish of so many ages, have of late with infinite labours and exquisite judgement, been probably restored and abounded; yet that no man's expectation and desire be too much frustrated, reason wils that we briefly set forth such divisions of the Land, as many repute not ancient only, but authentic. (10) Our seeming ancient Historians begin it at Brute, who to every of his three sons gave a part, called presently after their names; as Loegria to L●●rme his eldest son: Cambria to Camber his second son; and Albama to Albanist his third son: And doubtless, if there had been more Nations of fame in this Island, Brute should have had more sons fathered on him: which conceit some ascribe to Monmouth, holding that before him it was never so divided. (11) Ptolemie naming Britain the Great and the Less, hath been by some mistaken, as so dividing this Island into two parts; but his proportion and distance from the Aequator, compared with his Geographical description will evince, that he calleth this our Island Great Britain, and Ireland Britain the Less. (12) Howbeit some later do make indeed the South and more Champion to be called Great Britain, and the North more Mountainous, Britain the Less; whose Inhabitants anciently were distinguished into the Maiatae, and Caledonij, and now by the Scots are into Heghlandmen and Lawlandmen. But that Northern clime being more piercing for the Romans constitutions, and less profitable or fruitful, they set their bounds not far from Edinburgh, and altogether neglected the other parts more Northward. (13) This nearer part of Britain they then divided into two parts; for the more Southern tract, together with Wales, Dio termeth the Higher, and that more Northward the Lower, as by the seat of their Legions doth appear; for the second Legion Augusta (which kept at Caerleon in South-Wales) and the twentieth called Victrix (which remained at Chester) he placeth in the Higher Britain: but the sixth Legion surnamed also Victrix, resident at York, served (as he writeth) in the Lower Britain; which division, as seemeth, was made by Severus the Emperor, who having vanquished Albinus, General of the Britain's, and reduced their State under his obedience, divided the government thereof into two Provinces, and placed two Prefects over the same. (14) After this again the Romans did apportion Britain into three parts, whose limits our great Antiquary assigneth by the ancient archiepiscopal Seats, grounding his conjecture on the saying of Pope Lucius, who affirms that the Ecclesiastical jurisdictions of the Christians, accorded with the precincts of the Roman Magistrates, & that their Archbishops had their Sees in those Cities wherein their Precedents abode: so that the ancient Seats of the three Archbishops here, being London in the East, Caerleon in the West, and York in the North; London's Diocese (as seemeth) made Britain prima; Caerleon, Britain secunda; and York, Maxima Caesariensis. (15) But in the next age, when the power of their Precedents began to grow overgreat, they again divided Britain into five parts, adding the three former Valentia and Flavia Caesarie●sis: the first of which two seemeth to have been the Northerly part of Maxima Casarie●sis, recovered from the Picts and Scots by Theodosius the General, under Valence the Emperor, and in honour of him, named Valentia: and Flavia may be conjectured to receive the name from Flavius the Emperor (son of Theodosius) for that we read not of the name Britain Flavia, before his time. (16) So these five partitions had their limits assigned after this manner: Britain prima contained those coasts that lay betwixt Thamesis, the Severne, and the British Sea: Britain secunda extended from Severne unto the Irish Seas, containing the Country that we now call Wales: Flavia Caesariensis, was that which lay betwixt the Rivers Humber and Tyne: and Valentia from the said River, and Picts wall reached unto the Rampire near Edinburgh in Scotland, the farthest part that the Romans possessed when this division was in use. For the several people inhabiting all those parts, with their ancient Names & Borders (whether designed by the Romans, or the old Britain's) together with our modern Names and Shires, answerable to each of them: we will refer you to the Tables thereof elsewhere. (17) This whole Province of Britain, as in our History shall appear, was highly esteemed of the Emperors themselves, assuming as a glorious surname Britanicus: coming thither in person over those dangerous and scarce known Seas; here marrying, living, and dying; enacting here Laws for the whole Empire, & giving to those Captains that served here, many Ensigns of great honour; yea Claudius gave Plantius (the first Perfect of that Province) the right hand, as he accompanied him in his Triumph: and his own Triumph of Britain was set out with such magnificence, that the Provinces brought in golden Crowns of great weight, the Governors commanded to attend, and the very Capt●ines permitted to be present at the same: A Naval Coronet was fixed upon apinnacle of his Palace, Arches and Trophies were raised in Rome, and himself on his aged knees mounted the stairs into the Capitol, supported by his two sons in Law: so great a joy conceived he in himself for the Conquest of some small portion of Britain. ENGLAND'S GENERAL DESCRIPTION. CHAPTER II. THE Saxons glory now near to expire, by his appointment who holdeth both times and Kingdoms in his all ordering hand; their own Swords being the Instruments, and the Danes the maules that beat their beautiful Diadem into pieces; the Normans, a stirring Nation, (neither expected, nor much feared) under the leading of William their Duke, and encouragement of the Roman Bishop (an usual promoter here of broken titles) made hither suddenly into England, who in one only battle, with the title of his sword and slaughter or Herold, set the Imperial Crown thereof upon his own head: which no sooner was done, but the English went down, and the Normans lording it, became Owners of those Cities which themselves never built; possessed those Vineyards which they never planted; drank of those Wells which they never had digged; and inhabitted those houses, filled with riches, for which they never had laboured: for they found it to be as the land whereupon the Lord set his eye, even from the beginning to the end of the year: not only drinking water of the rain of heaven, but having also rivers of waters and fountains in her valleys, and without all scarcity, whose stones are iron, and out of whose mountains is digged brass. This made them more resolute at first to settle themselves in this fairest and fruitfullest part of the Island; the Conqueror using all policy both Marshal and Civil, to plant his posterity here for ever. How he found the Land governed we showed in the Heptarchy; but his restless thoughts were not contented with conquering the Nation and their Land, unless he also overcame their very Customs, Laws, and Language. (2) Touching the distribution of the Kingdom, whereas other Kings before him made use of it, chiefly for the good of the people, and better ministering of justice, he made use of it, to know the wealth of his Subjects, and to enrich his Coffers: for he caused a description to be made of all England, how much land every one of his Barons possessed, how many Knights fees, how many Blow. lands, how many in villainage, how many head of beasts, yea how much money every man from the greatest, to the least did possess, and what rents might be made of entry man's possession, the Book of which inquisition (yet in the Exchequer) was called doomsday, for the generality of that judgement on all the Land: Whereunto we may add his other distribution of this Land (worse than any former) when thrusting the English out of their possessions, he distributed their inheritances to his Soldiers; yet so, that all should be held of the King, as of the only true Lord and possessor. (3) For the Laws by which he meant to govern, he held one excellent rule and purpose, which was, that a People ought to be ruled by Laws written and certain: for otherwise new judges would still bring new judgements: and therefore he caused twelve to be chosen out of every County, which should on their oath, without inclining one way or other, neither adding nor detracting, open unto him all their ancient Laws and Customs. By whose relation understanding that three sorts of Laws formerly were in the Land, Merchenlage, West Saxonlage, Danelage; he had preferred these last, (himself and people being anciently derived from those Northern people) had not all the Barons bewailing to the King, how grievous it was for a Land to be judged by those Laws which they understood not, altered his resolute purpose: yet in bringing in the strange forms of Norman Process, and pleading in the French tongue (which continued till Edward the thirds time,) that grievance was but slenderly prevented. So likewise did he much alter the old Courts of justice, where these Laws should be ministered: but whereas the ancient Kings of England, according to Moses his example, sat in person in the seat of justice, to right the greater affairs of their Subjects, as William La●bert showeth in King Alfred, Edgar, Canutus, etc. and proves out of the King's Oath, out of Bracton, Britain, Saxon Laws, etc. King William not only continued this; but besides erected some other Courts of justice, as the Exchequer, and certain Courts and Sessions to be held four times every year: appointing both judges (some to hear causes, others to whom appeals should be made, but none from them) and also Prefects to look to good orders. Those last Polydore calleth justices of Peace; but their institution seems to be far later: and no less is his error on the other side, in saying the Conqueror first instituted Sheriffs, and the trial by twelve men, which were both ancienter. (4) And because the Conqueror, for honour of Bishops, caused them to remove from small obscure places to Cities of more renown; we have therefore reserved to this last place that division of this Kingdom, which is according to jurisdiction Episcopal. Formerly in the year of salvation, 636 Honorius the fifth Archbishop of Canterbury, first divided England into Parishes, which at this day are contained under their several Dio●●sans, and these again under their two metropolitans, (Canterbury and York) in manner following. CANTERBURY. Bishoprickes. Counties, Parishes. Canterbury. Kent. 257. Rochester. 98. London. Essex. 623. Middlesex. Hertford-shire part. Lincoln. Lincolnshire. 1255. Leicester-shire. Huntingdon. Bedford-shire. Buckingham-shire. Hertford-shire part. Chichester. Hertford-shire. 250. Suffex. Winchester. Hantshire. 362. Surrey. Wight Isle. Gernesey Isle. jersey Isle. Salisbury. Wilt-shire. 248. Bark-shire. Exester. 〈◊〉- shire. 604. Cornwall. Bath and Wells. Sommersetshire. 388. Gloucester. Gloucester-shire. 267. Worcester. Worcester-shire. 241. Lichfield and Coventry. Warwickshire. 557. Warwickshire part. Stafford-shire. Derbyshire. Shrop-shire part. Hereford. Shrop-shire part. 313. Hereford-shire. Ely Cambridge-shire. 141. Ely Isle. Norwich. Norfolk. 1121. Suffolk. Oxford. Oxford-shire. 195. Peterborow. Northampton. 293. Rutland-shire. Bristol. Dorsetshire. 236. Glamorgan. Landaffe. Monmouth-shire. 177. Brecknockshire. Radnor-shire. S. David. Pembrokeshire. 308. Caermarden. Bangor. Caernaruonshire. 107. Anglesey Isle. Merioneth-shire. Denbighshire. S. Asaph. Denbighshire part. 121. Flint shire part. YORK. York. Yorkshire. 581. Nottinghamshire. Chester. Ches●●re. 256. Richmondshire. Cumberland part. ●anca-shire. Flint part. Carlisle. Cumberland part. 93. Westmorland Durham. Durham. 135. Northumberland. Sodor. Man Island. 17. Totall Bishoprickes. 27. Parishes 9285. (5) To speak nothing of these twentie-eight Flamens the Priests of Idolatry, and the three Archflamins, whose seats were at London, Caerlion, and York; all of them converted by King Lucius into Christian Bishops Sees: let us only insist upon the three last, by the same King appointed to be metropolitans over the rest; among whom London is said to be chief: whose first Christian Archbishop was Thean, the builder of S. Peter's Church in Cornhill for his Cathedral, as by an ancient Table there lately hanging, was affirmed, and tradition to this day doth hold. Our British Historians do bring a succession of fifteen Archbishops, to have sat from his time unto the coming of the Saxons, whose last was Vodius, slain by King Vortiger, for reprehending his heathenish marriage with R●w●n, the Daughter of Hengist. At what time began the misery of the Land, and of holy Religion, both which they laid waste under their profane feet: until Ethelbert of Kent, the first Christian Saxon King, advanced Christainitie, & Augustine to the Archbishopricke of Canterbury, when London under Melitus became subject to that See. (6) At Caerlion upon uske, in the time of great Arthur, sit Dubritius, a man excellently learned, and of an holy conversation: he had sat Bishop of Landaffe a long time, and with Germanus and Lupus, two French Bishops greatly impugned the Pelagian Heresy, infecting at that time the Island very far, whose fame and integrity was such, that he was made Archbishop of all Wales: but grown very old, he resigned the same unto Davia his Disciple, a man of greater birth, but greater austerity of life, who by consent of King, Arthur, removed his Archbishops See unto Menevia, a place very solitary and meet for meditation: the miracles of the man, (which are said to be many) changed both the name of the place into his own, and rob Caerlion of her archiepiscopal seat: This See of S David's, (as in an ancient Register belonging to that Church is recorded) had seven Bishops Suffragans subject unto it which were Exeter, Bathe. He eford, Landaffe, Bangor, S. Asaph, and ●e●nes in Ireland: notwithstanding, either for want of Pall, carried into Britanny by Archbishop Sam●son, in a dangerous infection of sickness, either by poverty or negligence, it lost that jurisdiction, and in the days of King Henry the first, became subject to the See of Canterbury. (7) York hath had better success then either of the former, in retaining her original honour, though much impaired in her circuit, challenging to have been some time Metropolitan over all the Bishops in Scotland: and although it was made equal in honour and power with Canterbury, by Pope Gregory, as Beda relateth; and had twelve Suffragan Bishoprickes that owed obedience, only four now acknowledge York their Metropolitan, but Canterbury the Superior: for William the Conqueror thinking it dangerous to have two in like authority, lest the one should set on his Crown, and the other strike it off, left York to be a Primate, but Canterbury only the Prin●●● of all England. (8) The Lichfield was made an archiepiscopal See by Pope Hadrian the first, at the suit of Offa, the great King of Mercia, is manifested by Matthew of Westminster, unto whose jurisdiction were assigned the Bishoprickes of Winchester, Hereford, Leicester, Sidnacester, Helm●am, and Dunwich, and whose first and last bishop was Aldwin. That Winchester also had intended an archiepiscopal Pall, the same Author recordeth, when Henry Bloys, of the blood royal, greatly contended with the Arch bishop of Canterbury for superiority, under the pretence of being Cardinal de latere; to him an archiepiscopal Pall was sent, with power and authority over seven Churches, but he dying before that the design was done, the See of Winchester remained in subjection to Canterbury. And that (long before) the See of Dorchester by Oxford, had the jurisdiction of an Archbishop, is apparent by those Provinces that were under his Diocese, which were Winchester, Oxford, Lincoln, Salisbury, B●estow, Wells, Lichfield, Chester, and Excester; and the first Bishop of this great circuit, Berinu●, was called the Apostle and Bishop of the West- Saxons: which in his next successor was divided into two parts, Winchester and Dorchester, and not long after into Lichfield, Sidnacester, and Legecester; and lastly, the See removed from Dorchester to Lincoln, as now it is And thus far for the division of this Realm, both Politic and Ecclesiastic, as it hath stood and stands at this day. (9) But the whole Land's division, by most certain Record was anciently made, when julius Agric●la drew a trench or fortification upon that narrow space of ground betwixt Edenbrough Frith, and Dunbretton Bay, making the Southern part a Province unto the Roman Empire. Afterwards Hadrian the Emperor seeing perhaps the Province too spacious to be well governed without great expense, drew back these limits almost fourscore miles' shotter, even to the mouth of the River Tyne, whence he fortified with a wall of admirable work unto Carlisle, which stood the Lands border, while it stood as a Roman Province: yet the conquering Saxons did spread again over those bounds, and (as seemeth) enlarged their government to that first Tract, as by this inscription in a Stone Cross, standing upon a Bridge over the water of Frith, appeareth. I am a free March as Passengers may ken, To Scots, to Britain's, and to Englishmen. (10) But afterward William the Conqueror, and Malcolm King of Scotland, falling to an agreement for their limits, arreared a Cross upon Stanemore, where on the one side the portraiture and Arms of the King of England was sculptured, and of the King of Scots on the other (a piece whereof is yet remaining there near to the spital) thence called the Reu-crosse, there erected to be a Mearestone to either Kingdom. His successors also abolished the two partitions in the West, whereby the Welsh became one Nation and Kingdom with the English It is also said that King Stephen to purchase friendship with the Scottish Nation, gave unto their King the County of Cumberland who with it held both Westmoreland and Northumberland; but as Newbrigensis writeth, he restored them to King Henry the second, wisely considering his great power and right to those parts. KENT. CHAPTER III. KENT, the first Province appearing in the South of this Kingdom, is bounded upon the North with the famous River Thamisis: on the East with the german Ocean: on the South with Sussex and the narrow Seas: and upon the West and Sussex and Surrey. The length thereof extended from Langley in the West, unto Ramsgate Eastward in the Isle of Thanet, is about 53. English miles. From Rother in the South, unto the Isle of Graine Northward, the breadth is not much above 26. and the whole circumference about 160. miles. (2) Inform it somewhat resembleth the head of a hammer or Battle-axe, and lieth corner-wise into the Sea: by Strabo, Caesar, Diadorus, and Ptolemie, called Cantium, of Cant or Angle or Corner: either of Cain a British word, which signifieth Bushes or Woods, whereof that County in those former times was plentifully stored. (3) The air, though not very clear, because of the vapours arising from the Sea, and River: that environ the same, is both wholesome and temperate, as seated nearest to the Equino●ticall, and the furthest from the North Pole, not touched with cold as the other parts of the Land are. (4) The soil towards the East is uneven, rising into little hills, the West more level and woody, in all places fruitful, and in plenty equals any other of the Realm, yea, and in some things hath the best esteem: as in Broad-cloths, Fruits, and feedings for cattle. Only Mines (except Iron) are wanting: all things else delivered with a prodigal heart and liberal hand (5) Sundry navigable Rivers are in Kent, whereof Medwey, that divideth the shire in the midst, i● chief; in whose bosom securely rideth his Majesty's Navy Royal, the walls of the Land, and terrors of the Seas; besides ten others of name and account, that open with twenty Creeks and Havens for Ships arrivage into this Land, four of them bearing the name of Cinque Po●t●, are places of great strength and privileges, which are Do●er Sandwich, Rumney, and Winchelsey: among which Dover with the Castle is accounted by Matthew Paris the Monk, the lock and key to the whole Realm of England; and by john Rosse and Lidgate is said to be built by julius Caesar, fatal only for the death of King Stephen, and surrender of King john therein happening. (6) A conceit is, that Goodwin Sands were sunk for the sins of himself and his sons. Shelves indeed that dangerously lie on the North east of this County, and are much feared of all Navigators. These formerly had been firm ground, but by a sudden inundation of the Sea were swallowed up, as at the same time a great part of Flanders and the Low Countries were: and the like also at the same time befell in Scotland, as Hector Boetius their Historiographer writeth A like accident happened in the year 1586 the fourth day of August, in this County, at Mottingham, a Town eight miles from London, suddenly the ground began to sink, and three great Elms thereon growing, were carried so deep into the bowels of the earth, that no part of 〈◊〉 could any more be seen, the hole left in compass fourscore yards about, and a line of fifty fathoms plummed into it doth find no bottom. (7) The Kentish people in Caesar's time were accounted the civilest among the Britain's: and as yet esteem themselves the freest Subjects of the English, not conquered, but compounded with by the Normans: and herein glory, that their King and Commons of all the Saxons were the first Christians, converted in Anno 596. yea, and long before that time also Kent received the faith: for it is recorded that Lucius the first Christian British King in this Island, built a Church to the name and service of Christ, within the Castle of Dover, endowing it with the Tolle of the same Haven. (8) This County is enriched with two Cities and Bishops Sees, strengthened with 27. Castles, graced with 8. of his Majesty's most Princely Houses, traded with 24. Market-towns, and beautified with many stately and gorgeous buildings The chiefest City thereof, the Metropolitan and Arch bishops See, is Canterbury, built (as our British Historians report) 900. years before the birth of Christ; by Henry of Huntingdon, called Caier Kent, wherein (as M. Lambard saith) was erected the first School of professed Arts and Sciences, and the same a pattern unto Sigibert King of the East-Angles, for his foundation at Cambridge: notwithstanding by the computation of time, this Sigibert was slain by P●n●a King of Mercia, thirty years before that Theodore the Grecian was Bishop of Canterbury, who is said to be the ●●ector of that Academy. But certain it is, that Aust●● the Monk had made this City famous before that time, by the conversion of these Saxons unto Christianity, and in building a most magnificent Church to God's service, wherein eight of their Kings have been interred, but all their Monuments since over shadowed by the height of Beckets' Tomb, that for glory, wealth, and superstitious worships, equalised the Pyramids of A●gypt, or the Oracle of Delphos, yet now with Dagon is fallen before the Ark of God. This City hath been honoured with the presence and Coronations of King I●hn and Queen Isabella his wife, with the marriages of King Henry the third, and of King Edward the first, and with the interments of Edward the Bl●●ke Prince, King Henry the fourth, and of Queen 〈◊〉 his wife: as Feversham is with the burials of King Stephen, and of Maud his Queen and wife But as in glory so in adversity hath this City borne a part, being d●●ers times afflicted by the Danes, but most especially in the days of King Eth●red, who in that revenge of their massacre made havoc of all, and herein slew forty three thousand and two hundred persons, the tenth besides reserved to live. Afterward it recovered breath and beauty by th● liberality of B●shop 〈◊〉; Charters and 〈◊〉 by King Henry the third; strength in Trench and Fortifications from king Richard the second; and lastly, Walls for her defence by Simon Sudbury Archbishop of that See: whose Graduation is placed for Latitude 51. 25. and parallelized for Longitude 22 8. her sister Rochester differing not much in either degree. (9) Which City (as Beda saith) was built by one Rof, Lord of the same, though some ascribe the foundation of the Castle julius Caesar, and hath been often ruinated by the injuries of war, both in the times when the Saxons strove for superiority among themselves, wherein this City was laid waste, Anno 680. as also in the assaults of their common enemy the Danes, who about the year 884. from France sailed up the River Medwey, and besieged the same, so that had not King Elfred speedily come to the rescue, it had been overthrown by those Pagans. And again in Anno 999. the Danes miserably spoiled this City in the time of King Ethelred: neither hath it stood safe from danger since (though not defaced so much by war) for twice hath it been sore endamaged by chance of fire: the first was in the reign of King Henry the first, Anno 1130. himself being present with most of his Nobility, for the consecration of the Cathedral Church of S. Andrew And again almost wholly consumed about the latter end of the Reign of King Henry the second, Anno 1177. Yet after all these calamities it recovered some strength again, by the bounty of King Henry the third, both in buildings, and in ditching her about for defence. (10) Civil broils and diffentions hath this County been burdened with, and that not only under the Saxons and Danes, whose desolations were many and grievous, but also by other rebellions since the Normans Conquest, both in those infamous insurrections, called The Baron's Wars, in the reign of King Henry the Third, wherein much harm was done: as also under King Richard the second, when Wat Tiler, Captain of a dreadful commotion, assembled at Black-heath, Mile end, and in London, doing many outrages, where in Smithfield he was lastly struck down by William Walworth then Mayor of the City, and worthily slain for his notorious treasons. Again, upon Black-heath, Michael joseph, the Lord Dawbeny, with their Cornish Rebels, were overthrown by King Henry the seaventh, Anno 1497. SUSSEX. CHAPTER four SUTHSEX, a word compounded of the sire thereof Southward; lieth stretched along the British Seas. The North confronts upon Sur●●y and Kent, and the West butteth upon Ha●apshire. (2) For form it lieth long and narrow, so that all her R●pes do run quite through the Shire, & containeth from We●●harting in the West, to Kent-ditch that divides it from Kent in the East, sixty four miles, but in the broadest part little above twenty, the whole in circumference about one hundred fifty eight miles. (3) The air is good, though somewhat clouded with wists, which arise forth of her South bordering Sea, who is very prodigal unto her for Fish and Sea-sowle, though as sparing for Harbours or Ships arivage, and those which she hath, as uncertain for continuance, as dangerous for entrance. (4) Rich is the Soil and yieldeth greatplentie of all things necessary, but very ill for travellers, especially in the winter, the Land lying low and the ways very deep, whose middle tract is garnished with meadows, pastures, and Cornfields: the Sea-coast with Hills which are called the Downs, abundantly yielding both Graint and Grass, and the North side overshadowed with pleasant Groves and thick Woods, where sometimes stood the famous wood Andradswald, containing no less than an hundred and twenty miles in length, and thirty in breadth, taking the name of Anderida a City adjoining: both which were won from the Britaines by Llla the first Saxon King of this Province, and the place made fatal to Sigebert King of the Westsaxons, who being deposed from his Royal Throne, was met in this Wood by a Swineherd, and slain in revenge of his Lord, whom Sigebert had murdered. (5) The ancient people in the Romans time were the Regni, of whom we have spoken, and who were subdued by Vespasian the Leader of the second Legion under A●lus Plautius, Liceutenant in Britain for Claudius the Emperor. But after the departure of the Romans, this, with Surrey was made the Southsaxons Kingdom: yet that giving place to the Westsaxons, as they in time to the Normans, it became a Province under the conquerors power, who gave to his followers much Land in these parts▪ (6) The place of most account in this Shire is Chichester, by the Britaines called Caercei, a City beautiful and large, and very well walled about, first built by Cissa the second King of the Southsaxons, wherein his Royal palace was kept. And when King William the First had enacted that Bishop's Seas should be translated out of small Towns unto places of greater resort, the Residence of the Bishop (until then held at Selsey) was removed to this City, where Bishop Raulfe began a most goodly Cathedral Church: but before it was fully finished, by a sudden mischance of fire was quite consumed. Yet the same Bishop, with the helping liberality of King Henry the First, began it again, and saw it wholly finished; whose beauty and greatness her fatal enemy still envying, again cast down in the days of King Richard the First, and by her raging flames consumed the buildings both of it and the Bishop's Palace adjoining, which Seffrid the second Bishop of that name re-edified and built a new. And now to augment the honour of this place, the City hath borne the Title of an Earldom; whereof they of Arundel were sometimes so styled. Whose Gradustion for Latitude, is removed from the Equator unto the degree fifty, fifty five minutes; and for Longitude, observing the same point in the West, whence Mercator hath measured, are twenty degrees. (7) With whom for frequency, bigness, and building, the Town Lewes seemeth to contend, where King Athelstan appointed the mintage of his Monies, and William de Warron built a strong Castle, whereunto the disloyal Barons of King Henry the Third in warlike manner resorted, and fought a great Battle against their own Sovereign and his son, wherein the King had his Horse slain under him, Richard, King of the Romans surprised and taken in a Windmill, and Prince Edward delivered unto them upon unequal conditions of peace. But a greater Battle was fought at Battle, when the hazard of England was tried in one days fight, and Harold the King gave place to his Conqueror by losing of his life, among sixty seven thousand nine hundred seventie-foure English men besides; whose blood so spilt, gave name to the place, in French, Sangue lac. And the soil naturally after rain becoming of a reddish colour, caused William of Newberry untruely to write, That if there fell any small sweet showers in the place where so great a slaughter of the Englishmen was made, presently sweateth forth very fresh blood out of the earth, as if the evidence thereof did plainly declare the vance of blood there shed, and cried still from the earth unto the Lord. (8) But places of other note in this Shire are these: from Basham, Earl Harold taking the Sea for his delight, in a small Boat, was driven upon the Coast of Normandy, where by Duke William he was retained, till he had sworn to make him King after Edward Confessors death; which oath being broken, the Bastard arrived at Pensey, and with his sword revenged that Perjury at West-Wittering also Ella the Saxon before him had landed for the conquering of those parts and gave name to the shore from Cimen his son. But with greater glory doth Gromebridge raise up her head, where Charles Duke of orleans, father to Lewes the twelfth, King of France, taken prisoner at Agincourt, was there a long time detained. (9) The commodities of this Province are many and diverse, both in Corn, Cattle, Woods, Iron, and Glass; which two last, as they bring great gain to their possessors, so do they impoverish the County of Woods, whose want will be found in ages to come, if not at this present in some sort felt. (10) Great have been the devotions of religious Persons in building and consecrating many houses unto the use and only service of Christ; whose Beadmen abusing the intents of their Founders, hath caused those Foundations to lament their own ruins: for in the tempestuous time of King Henry the Eight, eighteen of them in this County were blown down, whose fruit iell into the ●appes of some that never meant to restore them again to the like use. SURREY. CHAPTER V. SURREY, by Beda called Suthri, lieth separated upon the North from the Counties of ●●●kingham and Mia●lesex, by the great River Tha●●s●s; upon the East Kent doth inbound it; upon the South is held in with Sussex and Hampshire: and her West part is bordered upon by Hamp-shire and Bark-shire. (2) The form thereof is somewhat square, and lieth by Northand by East, whereof Redrith and Frensham are the opposites, betwixt whom are extended thirtiefoure miles. The broadest part is from Awfold Southward, to Thamisis by Stanes, and them asunder twenty two: the whole in circumference is one hundred and twelve miles. (3) The Heaven's breathing air in this Shire is most sweet and delectable, so that for the same cause many royal Palaces of our Princes are therein seated, and the Country better stored with game then with grain, insomuch that this County is by some men compared unto a homespun freeze cloth, with a costly fair lift, for that the out-verge doth exceed the middle itself. And yet is it wealthy enough both in Corn and Pasturage, especially in H●●esdale, and towards the River of Thamisis. (4) In this Shire the Regni (an ancient people mentioned by Ptolemie) were seated, whom he brancheth further thorough Sussex and some part of Hamp-shire And in the wane of the Romans government, when the Land was left to the will of Invaders, the Southsaxons under Ella here erected their Kingdom, which with the first was raised, and soon found end. From them no doubt the Courtie was named Suthrey, as seated upon the South of the River; and now by contraction is called Surrey. (5) And albeit the County is barren of Cities or Towns of great estate, yet is she stored with many Princely Houses, yea and five of his Majesties, so magnificently built, that of some she may well say, no Shire hath none such, as is None-such indeed. And were not Richmond a fatal place of England's best Princes, it might in esteem be ranked with the richest: for therein died the great Conqueror of France, King Edward the Third, the beautiful Anne daughter to Charles the Fourth, Emperor, and entirely beloved wife to King Richard the Second; the most wise Prince King Henry the Seventh, and the rarest of her Sex, the Mirror of Princes, Queen Elizabeth, the world's love, and subjects joy. (6) At Merton likewise Kenulph King of the Westsaxons came to his untimely end: and at Lambeth the hardre Canute, and last of the Danish Kings, died among his Cups But as these places were fatal for the last breath of these Princes, so other in this County have been graced with the body and beginning of other worthy monarchs: for in Cherts●y Abbey King Henry the Sixth, who was deposed and made away in the Tower of London, was first interred without all funeral pomp, but for his holy life was imputed a Saint, and lastly translated, and entombed at Windsor. At Kingston likewise stood the Chair of Majestic, wherein Athelstan, Edwin, and Ethelred sat at their Coronation, and first received their Seepter of Imperial Power Guildfor● likewise hath been far greater than now it is, when the Place of our English-Saxon King● was therein set. And seeing it is the midst of the Shire, the Graduation from hence shall be observed, where for Latitude the Pole is raised from the degree 51. 22. scruples: and her Longitude from the West in the degree 20. and 2. scruples. (7) Neither can we account Okam and Ripley, two small Villages, the least in this Shire, which have brought forth the well known men, William de Okam, that deep Philosopher, and admirable Scholar, and George de Ripley, the rung leader of our Alchemists and mystical impostors; both of them borne in this County, and very near together. But why speak I of these, sith a place nearer to sight, and greater for fame, even Lambeth, is the High Seat of Ecclesiastical Government, Piety, and Learning, and Palace of Canterbury's Archbishops, the Metropolitan of England. First erected by Archbishop Daldwin, and ever since hath been the residing of all those worthy Prelates of our Church, who in a long succession (even from Anno 596) have continued to him that now most worthily sits at the Churches stern, Richard by God's providence Lord Archbishop of that See, a most faithful and prudent Counsellor unto King JAMES, and a most learned and provident Guide of our most flourishing Church: whose gracious favour undeservedly conferred upon me, hath been a great encouragement to these my poor endeavours. (8) Memorable places for Battles sought before the Conquest, were Wembledon, where (when the fullness of prosperity burst forth into Civil Dissensions among the Saxons) a bloody Battle was fought betwixt Cheau●in the West-Saxon and young Ethelbert of Kent, wherein he was discomfited, and two of his principal Leaders slain, about the year of Christ 560. and three hundred thirty three years after, King Elfred with a small power overcame the Danes with a great slaughter at Faruham in this County, which somewhat quelled the courage of his savage enemy. (9) Religious Houses erected in this Shire by the devotion of Princes, and set apart ffom public uses to Gods Divine Service, and their own Salvation, as then was taught, the best in account were Sbene, Chertsey, Merton, Newarke, Rygate, Waverley, Horsleg; and in Southwark, Bermundsey, and S. Mary's. These all flourished with increase, till the ripeness of their fruit was so pleasing in sight and taste unto King HENRY the Eight, that in beating the boughs he broke down body and all, ruinating those houses, and seizing their rich possessions into his own hands. So jealous is GOD of his honour; and so great vengeance followeth the sin of Idolatry. HANTSHIRE. CHAPTER VI. HANTSHIRE, lying upon the West of England, Is bordered upon the North by Berkshire, upon the East with Surrey and Sussex, upon the South with the British Seas, and I'll of Wight, and upon the West with Dorset and Wiltshires. (2) The length thereof from Blackwater in the North upon Surrey, unto Bascomb in the South upon the Sea, extended in a right line, is fifty four English miles: and the breadth drawn from Peters-field in the East, unto Tidworth in the West, and confines of Wilt-shire, is little less than thirty miles, the whole Circumference about one hundred fifty and five miles. (3) The Air is temperate, though somewhat thick by reason of the Seas, and the many Rivers that thorough the Shire do fall, whose plenty of fish and fruitful increase, do manifoldly redeem the harms which they make. (4) The Soil is rich for Corn and Cattle, pleasant for pasturage, and plenteous for woods; in a word, in all commodities either for Sea or Land, blessed and happy. (5) Havens it hath, and those commodious both to let in, and to lose out Ships of great burden in trade of Merchandise, or other employments: whereof Portsmouth, Tichfield, Hamble, and South-hampton are chief: besides many other creeks that open their bosoms into those Seas, and the Coast strengthened with many strong Castles, such as Hurst, Calshot, South-hampton, S. Andrew's, Worth, Porchester, and the South Castle, besides other Bulwarks, or Blockhouses that secure the Country: and further in the Land, as Malwood, Winchester, and Odiam, so strong, that in the time of King john, thirteen Englishmen only defended the Fort for fifteen days against Lewis of France, that with a great Host assaulted it most hotly. (6) Anciently it was possessed upon the North by the Segontians, who yielded themselves to julius Caesar, and whose chief City was Vindonum, Caer Segonte, now Silcester; and upon the South by the Belga, and Regni, who were subdued by Plausius and Vespasian the Romans, where Titus rescuing his Father, straight besieged by the Britain's, as Dio and Forcatulus do report, was grasped about with an Adder, but no hurt to his person, and therefore taken for a sign of good luck. Their chief Town was Rincewood, as yet sounding the name: and more within Land inhabited the Manures, as Beda calls them, whose Hundreds also to this day give a relish of their names. (7) Near Ringwood, and the place once Y●EN●, from God and people's service, to Beast and luxury, thirtiesixe Parish-Churches were converted and pulled down by the Conqueror, and thirty miles of circuit inforrested for his game of Hunting, wherein his sons Richard and Rufus, with Henry the second son to Duke Robert, his first, felt by hasty death the hand of justice & Revenge: for in the same Forest, Richard by blasting of a pestilent air, Rufus by shot taken for a beast, and Henry as Absalon hanged by a bough, came to their untimely ends At so dear a rate the pleasures of dogs, and harbour for beasts were bought in the blood of these Princes. (8) The general commodities gotten in this Shire, are Wools, Clothes, and Iron, whereof great store is therein wrought from the Mines, and thence transported into all parts of this Realm, and their Clothes and Kerseys carried into many foreign Countries, to that Country's great benefit, and England's great praise. (9) The Trade thereof, with other provisions for the whole, are vented thorough eighteen Market-towns in this Shire, whereof Winchester, the Britain's Caer Gwent, the Romans Venta Belgarum, is chief, ancient enough by our British Historians, as built by King Rudhudibras, nine hundred years before the Nativity of Christ: and famous in the Romans times for the weaving and embroideries therein wrought, to the peculiar uses of their Emperors own persons. In the Saxons time, after two Calamities of consuming fire, her walls was raised, and the City made the Royal Seat of their Westsaxons Kings, and the Metropolitan of their Bishops See, wherein Egbert and 〈◊〉 their most famous Monarches were Crowned: and Henry the third, the Normans longest 〈◊〉, first took breath: And here King Aethelstane erected six houses for his Mint● but the Danish dissolution overrunning all, this City felt their fury in the days of King Ethelbright, and in the Normans time, twice was defaced by the misfortune of fire, which they again repaired and graced with the trust of keeping the public Records of the Realm. In the civil wars of Maud and Stephen, this City was sore sacked, but again receiving breath, was by King Edward the third appointed the place for Mart of Wool and Cloth. The Cathedral Church built by Kenwolf King of the Westsaxons, that had been Amphibalus, S. Peter, Swithins, and now holy Trinity, is the Sanctuary for the ashes of many English Kings: for herein great Egbert, Anno 836. with his son King Ethelwolfe, 857. Here Elfred, Oxford's founder, 901 with his Queen Elswith, 904. Here the first Edmund before the Conquest, 924. with his sons Elfred and Elsward: Here Edred, 955. and Edwy, 956 both Kings of England: Here Emme, 1052. with her Danish Lord Canute, 1035. and his son Hardicanute, 1042. And here lastly the Normans, Richard and Rufus, 1100. were interred; their bones by Bishop Fox were gathered and shrined in little guilt coffers fixed upon a wall in the Choir, where still they remain carefully preserved. This City's situation is fruitful and pleasant, in a valley under hills, having her River on the East, and Castle on the West, the circuit of whose walls are well near two English miles, containing one thousand eight hundred and eighty paces; thorough which openeth six gates for entrance, and therein are seven Churches for divine Service, besides the Minister, and those decayed; such as Calendar, ●uell Chapel, S. Mary's Abbey, and the Friars, without in the Suburbs, and Soo●●; in the East is S. Peter's, and in the North Hyde Church and Monastery, whose ruins remaining, show the beauty that formerly it bare. The Graduation of this City by the Mathematics, is placed for Latitude in the degree 51. 10. minutes, and for Longitude 19 3. minutes. (10) More South, is South-hampton, a Town populous, rich and beautiful, from whom the whole Shire deriveth her name, most strongly walled about with square stone, containing in circuit, one thousand and two hundred paces, having seven Gates for entrance, and twentie-nine Towers for defence, two very stately Keys for Ships arrivage, and five fair Churches for God's divine service, besides an Hospital, called G●ds house, wherein the unfortunate Richard, Earl of Cambridge, beheaded for treason, lieth interred. On the West of this Town is mounted a most beautiful Castle, in form Circular, and wall within wall, the foundation upon a hill so topped, that it cannot be ascended but by stairs, carrying a goodly prospect both by Land and Sea, and in the East without the walls a goodly Church sometimes stood, called S Maries, which was pulled down, for that it gave the French direction of course, who with fire had greatly endangered the Town: in stead thereof, is newly erected a small and unfinished Chapel. In this place, saith learned Cambden, stood the ancient Clausentium, or fort of the Romans, whose circuit on that side extended itself to the Sea: this suffered many depredations by the Saxon Pirates, and in Anno 980. was by the Danes almost quite overthrown. In King Edward the thirds time, it was fired by the French, under the Conduct of the King of Sicils son, whom a Country man encountered and struck down with his Club, He crying Rancon, that is, Ransom: but he neither understanding his language, nor the Law that Arms doth allow, laid on more sound, saying: I know thee a Frankon, and therefore shalt thou dit: and in Richard the seconds time it was somewhat removed, and built in the place where now it standeth In this Clausentium, Canute to evict his flatterers, made trial of his Deity, commanding the Seas to keep back from his seat: but being not obeyed, he acknowledged God to be the only supreme Governor, and in a religious devotion gave up his Crown to the Rood at Winchester. More ancient was Silcester, built by Constantius, great Constantine's son, whose Monument (they say) was seen in that City, and where another Constantine put on the purple robe against Hono●●●, as both Ni●ius and Gervase of Canterbury do witness. Herein by our Historians record, the warlike Arthur was Crowned. Whose greatness for circuit contained no less than fourscore Acres of ground, and the walls of great height, yet standing two miles in compass about. This City by the Danish Rovers suffered such wrack, that her mounted tops were never since seen, and her Hulk (the walls) in mured to the middle in the earth, which the rubbish of her own desolations hath filled. WIGHT ISLAND. CHAPTER VII. WIGHT ISLAND was in times past named by the Romans Vecta, Vectis, and Vecteses, by the Britain's, Guyth, and in these days usually called by us, The I'll of Wight. It belongeth to the Country of South-hampton, and lieth out in length over against the midst of it southward. It is encompassed round with the British. Seas, and severed from the Main land. that it may seem to have been conjoined to it, and thereof it is thought the British name (Guyth) hath been given unto it, which betokeneth separation, even as 〈◊〉 being broken off and cut from Italy, got the name from Secando (which signifieth cutting.) (2) The form of this Isle is long, and in the midst far more wide then at either end: from 〈◊〉 I'll in the 〈◊〉, to 〈◊〉 Castle in the West it stretcheth out in length 20. miles, and in 〈…〉 Northward, to 〈…〉 Southward 12. miles. The whole in circumference 〈…〉. (3) The ay●e is commended both for health and delight, whereof the first is witnessed by the 〈◊〉 continuance of the Inhabitants in the state of then bodies before they be decayed, and the other for quantity gives place to no neighbouring Country. (4) The ground (to say nothing of the Sea, which is exceeding full of fish) consisteth of soil very fruitful; yet the husbandman's labour deserves to be thankfully remembered, by whose pains and industry it doth not only supply itself, but affords ●orne to be carried forth to others. The ●and is plenteously stored with Cattle and Graine, and breeds every where store of Coneys, Hares, Patridges and Pheasants, pleasant for meadow, pasturage, and Parks; so that nothing is wanting that may suffice man. The midst yields plenty of pasture; and forage for Sheep; whose wool the Clothiers esteem the best; next unto that of Leinster and Cotteswold: If you cast your eyes towards the North, it is all over garnished with Meadows, Pastures, and Woods: If towards the South side, it lieth (in a manner) wholly bedecked with Cornefields enclosed, where at each end the Sea doth so incroach●t self. that it maketh almost two Lands besides, namely, Freshwater Isle, which looketh to the West, and B●nbridge isle answering it to the East. (5) The Commodities of the whole chiefly consist of Cattle, Sea fowl, Fish, and Corn, whereof it hath sufficient: Woods are not here very plentiful; for that it is only stored with one little Forest; yet the Country of Hamshire for vicinity of Site, is a friendly neighbour in that behalf; so (as it were being tied together in affinity) they are always ready, and propense to add to each others wants and defects by a mutual supply. (6) The ancient Inhabitants of this Island were the Belga, spoken of in the several Provinces of Somersetshire, Wilt-shire, and Hamshire. Such as did then possess it were called Lords of the Isle of wight, till it fell into the King's hands, by R●ger (Son to William Fits Osburne, slain in the war of Flanders) that was driven into exile. And Henry the first King of England gave it unto Richard Riduers, with the see or Inheritance of the Town of Christs-Church, where (at in all other places) he built certain Fortrestes. (7) The principal Market-town in the Isle is Newport, called in times past Medena, and Novus Burgus de Meden; that is, the new Burgh of Meden, whereof the whole Country is divided into East- Meden, and West Meden. A Town well seated, and much frequented; unto whose Burgesles his Majesty hath lately granted the choice of a Major, who with his Brethren, do govern accordingly. It is populous with Inhabitants, having an entrance into the Isle from the Haven, and a passage for Vessels of small burden unto the Key. Not far from it is the Castle Caresbrooke, whose founder is said to have been Whitgar the Saxon, and from him called White-Garesburgh: but now made shorter for easier pronunciation; the graduation whereof for Latitude is in the degree 50. 36. minutes: and her Longitude in 19 4. minutes, where, formerly hath stood a Priory, and at Quarre a Nunnery; a necessary neighbour to those Penitentiaries. And yet in their merry mood, the Inhabitants of this Island do boast, that they were happier than their neighbour Countries, for that they never had Monk that ever wore hood, Lawyers that cavilled, nor Foxes that were crafty. (8) It is reported, that in the year of man's salvation, 1176. and twentie-three of King Henry the second, that in this Island it reigned a shower of blood, which continued for the space of 2 hours together to the great wonder and amazement of the people that beheld it with fear. (9) This Isle of Wight is fortified both by Art and Nature: for besides the strength of Artificial Forts and Blockehouses (wherewith it is well furnished) it wants not the assistance of natural Fences, as being enriched with a continual ridge and range of craggy Cliffs and Rocks, and Banks very dangerous for Sailors, as the Needles, so called by reason of their sharpness: The Shingles, Mixon, Brambles, etc. (10) Vespasian was the first that brought it to the subjection of the Romaenes, whilst he served as a private person under Claudius Caesar. And Cerdic was the first English Saxon that subdued it, who granting it unto S●uffe and Whitgar, they jointly together slew (almost) all the British Inhabitants (being but few of them, there remaining) in the Town aforesaid, called of his Name Whitgaresburgh. Wolpher King of the Merciam reduced this Island afterwards under his obedience, and at that time when he became Godfather to Edelwalch King of the Southsaxons, and answered for him at his Baptism; he assigned it over unto him, with the Province also of the Menuari. But when Edelwalch was slain, and Aruandus the petty King of the Island was made away, Coedwalla King of the Westsaxons annexed it to his Dominion, and in a tragical and lamentable Massacre put to the sword (almost) every mother's child of the inborn Inhabitants. The thing that is best worthy note and observation is this, That Bishop Wilfrid was the first that instructed the Inhabitants of this Island in Christian Religion, and brought them from Idolatrous Superstition, with the which (unto that time) they were obscurely blinded. DORCESTER-SHIRE. CHAPTER VIII. DORCESTER, from her ancient people DUROTRIGES, is most likely to have received that name: by the Britaines called DWRGWEIR, lieth bounded upon the North-side with Somerset and W●lt-shire; upon the West with D●●●shire, and some part with Somerset; upon the East altogether with Hampshire: and her South part is wholly bounded with the British Seas. (2) The form grows wider from the West, and spreads herself the broadest in the midst, where it extends to twentie-foure miles, but in length is no less than fortiefoure: the whole in Circumference about, is one hundred and fifty miles. (3) The air is good, and of an healthful constitution: the soil is fat, affording many commodities, and the Country most pleasant in her situation: for the Inland is watered with many sweet and fresh running Springs, which taking passage thorough the plain Valleys, do lastly in a loving manner unite themselves together, and of their many branches make many big bodied streams: neither doth the Sea deny them entrance, but helpeth rather to fill up their Banks, whereby Vessels of burden discharge their rich Treasures, and herself with open hand distributeth her gifts all along the South of this Shore. (4) Anciently it was possessed by the Durotriges, whom Ptolemie placeth along in this Tract, who being subdued by the Romans, yielded them room, and unwilling subjection. After them the Saxons set foot in these parts, whereof Portland seemeth from that Port to take name, who in this place arrived in Anno 703. and did sorely infest and annoy all the South Tract. And at Bindon before him Kinegillus King of the Westsaxons, in the year of Christ 614. in a doubtful and dangerous Battle vanquished the Britain's Neither were the Saxons so surely herein seated, but that the Danes sought to defeat them thereof: for twice these bold Rovers landed at Chartmouth, the first was in Anno 831. and reign of King Egbert; and the other eight years after, when Ethelwulfe was King: in both which they went away Victors. Yet when the Iron-side wore the English Diadem, and these fierce people sought to pluck it from his Helmet, he met them at Pen ham in Gillingham Forrest, and with a small power obtained a great victory, causing their King Canute with discourage to retire. (5) Commodities arising in this County are chiefly Wools and Woods in her North, where the Forests are stored with the one, and the pleasant green Hills with the other. The inner part is overspread both with Corn and Grass, and the Sea yieldeth the Isidis Plocamos, a Shrub growing not unlike the Coral without any leaf; besides her other gifts, turning all to great gain: which the more is made manifest by the many Market. Towns in this Shire, whereof Dorchester is the chief, in Antonius his 〈◊〉 termed Durnovaria, situated upon the South side of from, and the 〈…〉 called fosse-way, wherein some of their Legions kept, a, by the Rampires and Coins there daily digged up is probably conjectured; at which time it seemeth the City was walled, whereof some part yet standeth, especially upon the West and South sides, and the Tract and Trench most apparent in a Quadrant-wise almost meeteth the River, containing in circuit one thousand and seven hundred pases, but were cast down by the Danes, whose tran●pling feet destroyed all things wheresoever they came, and hands here razed the Trenches Mandbury and Poundbury, theseales of their Siege, and signs of times misery. About three hundred pases Southward from hence, standeth an old Fortification of Earth, trenched about, and mounted above the ordinary plain, thirty pases, containing some five Acres of ground; wherein (at my therebeing) plenty of Corn grew. This the Inhabitants call The Maiden-Castle, having entrance thereunto only upon the East and West This is thought to have been a Summer-Campe or Station of the Romans, when their Garrisons kept the Frontiers of this Province. The government of this City is yearly committed to two Bailiffs, elected out of eight Magistrates or Aldermen, a Recorder, Towr●-Clerke, and two Sergeants attending them: whence the North-pole is elevated 50. degrees 48. minutes in Latitude, and for Longitude is removed from the first West-point unto the Meridian of 18. degrees. (6) Other places also are memorable through the actions therein happening, or antiquities there yet remaining: such is Badbury, now nothing but a Trench and decayed Castle, hardly seen, though sometimes it was the Court of the Westsaxons Kings. Such also is Cerne, where Augustine the English Apostle broke down the Altars and Idols of the Saxons God HELL, whom they devoutly honoured as the only conserver of their health. Shaftesbury also, wherein one Aquila (whether a Man or Eagle I know not) by our Historians report, is said to have prophesied the future times of this our Empire, and that after the reigns of the Saxons and Norman▪ it should again return unto the government of the British Kings. But with such vain predictions our Nation is more than once taxed by Philip 〈◊〉 the famous French Writer. In this City Edward the son of great Edgar, and one and thirtieth Monarch of the Englishmen, was interred, being murdered at Corfe, a Castle seated in the I'll of Purbeck, by his Stepmother Aelfrith, to make way for her son to enjoy his Crown: in repentance whereof, and to pacify Heaven for his blood, she built the Monasteries of Ambresbury and Whorwell, in the County of Wilt-shire and Southhamton. In the former of which with great penitency she spent the rest of her life. (7) As upon the like occasion the Monastery of Middleton was laid in this Shire by King Ethelstan to appease the Ghost of Edwine his innocent brother, and to expiate the sin of his own soul for the blood of that just Prince, whom most unjustly he caused to die: and with the like devotion, though not to satisfy for the like blo●die sins▪ did Queen Cuthbarga sue a Divorce from her second husband the Northumberlands King, and it Winburne built her a Nunnery, whereof herself bec●me Abbess, where afterward was raised a most stately Minster, which added not only more glory to the place, but withal enlarged the name, and made it to be called Wimburn-minster, where King Ethel●●●. a most virtuous Prince, after much disquietness had with the Danes, in peace here resteth, with his Tomb and Inscription, as in his History (Christ assisting) shall be further seen. Neither among these may I omit Sherburne, which in the year of grace 704. was made a Bishops See, in whose Cathedral Church were interred the bodies of Ethelbald and Ethelbert, brethren, both of them monarchs of the Englishmen. (8) Seven more besides these were set apart from worldly employments, consecrated only to God and his service in this Shire; which were Camestern, Cranborn, Ab●ottesbury, Bindon, Sturmister, Tarrant, and Warham These with the others came to their full period under the hand of King Henry the Eight, which lay with such weight upon their fai●e buildings, that he crushed the juice thereof into his own Coffers. DEVON-SHIRE. CHAPTER IX. DEVON-SHIRE, by the Cornish Britain's called Devinan; and by contraction of the vulgar Denshire, is not derived from the Danes, as some would have it, but from the people Danmonij, the same we will speak of in Cornwall, and whom Ptolemie hath seated in these Western Borders. (2) The West of this County is bounded altogether by the River Tamar: the East is held in with the verge of Somerset-shire: and the North and South sides are washed wholly with the British and Severne Seas: Betwixt whose shores from Cunshere in the North, unto Salcombe Haven entering in at the South, are fifty five miles: and from the Hartland Point West, to Thorncombe East, are fifty four: the whole Circumference about two hundred and two miles. (3) The Air is sharp, healthful and good: the Soil is hilly, woody and fruitful, yet so as the hand of the Manurer must never be idle, nor the purse of the Farmer never fast shut, especially of them that are far from the Sea, whence they fetch a sand with charge and much travel, which being spread upon the face of the earth, bettereth the leanness thereof for grain, and giveth life to the Glebe with great efficacy. (4) As Cornwall, so this hath the same commodities that arise from the Seas: and being more inlanded hath more commodious Havens for Sh●ppings intercourse, among whom Totnes is famous for Brutus' first entrance, if Geoffrey say true, or if Hau●llan the Poet took not a Poetical liberty, when speaking of Brute, he wrote thus: The Gods did guide his sail and course: the winds were at command: And Totnes was the happy shore where first he came on land. But with more credit and lamentable event, the Danes at Teignemouth first entered for the invasion of this Land, about the year of Christ 787. unto whom Brightrik King of the Westsaxons sent the Steward of his house to know their intents, whom resistantly they slew: yet were they forced back to their Ships by the Inhabitants, though long they stayed not, but eagerly pursued their begun enterprises▪ With more happy success hath Plymouth set forth the purchasers of same, and stopped the entrance of England's Invaders, as in the Reign of that eternised Queen, the mirror of Princes, Elizabeth of everlasting memory: for from this Port Sir Francis Drake, that potent man at Sea, setting forth Anno 1577 in the space of two years and ten months did compass the circle of the earth by Sea. And the Lord Charles Howard, England's high Admiral, did not only from hence impeach the entrance of the proud invincible Spanish Navy, intending invasion and subversion of State, but with his Bullets so signed their passage; that their sides did well show in whose hands they had been, as seals of their own shame, and his high honour. (5) The commodities of this Shire consist much in Wools and Clothings, where the best and finest Kerseys are made in the Land Corn is most plenteous in the fruitful Valleys, and Cattle spreading upon the topped Hills; Sea Fish and Fowl exceedingly abundant. Veins of Lead, yea and some of Silver in this Shire are found: and the Loadstone (not the least for use and esteem) from the Rocks upon Dart-more hath been taken Many fresh Springs do bubble from the Hills in this Province, which with a longing desire of Socretie search out their passage, till they meet and conjoin in the Valleys, and gathering still strength with more branches, lastly grow bodied able to bear Ships into the Land, and to lodge them of great burden in their Bosoms or Falls: whereof Tamar, Tave, and Ex are the fairest and most commodious▪ (6) Upon which last the chief City and Shire-Towne of this County is seated, and from that River hath her name Excester: this City by Ptolemie is called Is●a; by the 〈…〉 Emperor, Is●a Danmoniorum; and by the We so 〈◊〉. It is pleasantly seated upon the gentle ascent of an hill, so stately for building, so rich with 〈…〉 stranger's, that a man can desire nothing but 〈…〉. The walls of this City first built by King 〈…〉 but towards the Ex rangeth almost in a strait line having six Gates for entrance, and many 〈…〉 betwixt, whose compass containeth about fifteen hundred paces: upon the East part of this City standeth a Castle called Rugemont, sometimes the Palace of the West-Saxon Kings, and after them of the Earls of Cornwall, whose prospect is pleasant unto the 〈…〉 magnificent Cathedral Church, founded by King Athelstan also, in the honour of S. Peter, and by Edward the Confessor made the Bishops See, which the removed from 〈…〉 in this County unto the City of Excester (as saith the private History of that place:) whose dilapidations the reverend Father in God William now Bishop of the Diocese with great cost hath repaired; whom I may not name without a most thankful remembrance for the great benefits received by his careful providence toward me and mine. This City was so strong and so well stored of Britain's, that they held out against the Saxons for 465. years after their first entrance, and was not absolutely 〈◊〉 until Athelstan became Monarch of the whole, who then peopled it with his Saxons, and 〈◊〉 the beauty thereof with many fair buildings: but in the times of the Danish desolations this City with the rest, felt their destroying hands; for in the year 875. it was by them fore afflicted, spoilt, and shaken, and that most grievously by Swain in the year of Christ jesus 1003. who razed it down from East to West, so that scarcely had it gotten breath before William the bastard of Normandy besieged it, against whom the Citizens with great manhood served, till a part of the wall fell down of itself, and that by the hand of God's providence, saith mine Author: since when it hath been three times besieged, and with valiant resistance ever defended. The first was by Hugh Courtney, Earl of Devenshire, in the Civil broils betwixt Lancaster and York: then by Perbin Warbeck, that counterfeited Richard Duke of York: and lastly, by the Cornish Rebels, wherein although the Citizens were grievously pinched with scarcity, yet continued they their faithful allegiance unto King Edward the sixth; and at this day flourisheth in tranquillity and wealth, being governed by a Major, twentie-foure Brethren, with a Recorder, Town-clerk, and other Officers their Attendants. This City's graduation is set in the degree of Latitude from the North-Pole 50. and 45. scruples: and for Longitude from the West, to the degree 16. and 25. scruples. Neither is joseph that excellent Poet, whose birth was in this City, the least of her Ornaments, whose Writings bare so great credit, that they were divulged in the german language under the name of Cornelius Nepos. The like credit got Crediton in her birth-child Winefred the Apostle of the Hassians, Thuringers, and Frisians of Germany, which were converted by him unto the Gospel and knowledge of Christ. (7) Places memorable in this County remaining for signs of Battles, or other antiquities are these: upon Exmore certain Monuments of Anticke-worke are erected, which are stones pitched in order, some trianglewise, and some in round compass: these no doubt were trophies of victories there obtained, either by the Romans, Saxons, or Danes, and with Danish letters one of them is inscribed, giving direction to such as should travel that way. Hublestowe likewise near unto the mouth of Tawe, was the burial place of Hubba the Dane, who with his Brother Hunger, had harried the English in diverse parts of the Land: but lastly was there encountered with, and slain by this Shires Inhabitants, and under a heap of copped stones interred, and the Banner Reasen there and then taken, that had so often been spread in the Danes quarrel, and wherein they reposed no small confidence for success. (8) A double dignity remaineth in this County, where Princes of State have borne the Titles both of Devonshire and Excester: of which City, there have been entitled Dukes, the last of whom, namely, Henry Holland, Grandchild to john Holland, half-brother to King Richard the second; siding with Lancaster against Edward the fourth, whose Sister was his wife, was driven to such misery, as Philip Comineus reporteth, that he was seen all torn and barefooted to beg his living in the Low Countries: and lastly, his body was cast upon the shore of Kent (as if he had perished by shipwreck) so uncertain is Fortune in her endowments, and the state of man, notwithstanding his great birth. (9) Religious houses in this Shire built in devotion, and for Idolatry pulled down, were at Excester, Torbay, Tanton, Tavestoke, Kirton, Ford, Hartland, Axmister, and Berstable. CORNWALL. CHAPTER X. CORNWALL (as Matthew of Westminster affirmeth) is so named partly from the form, and partly from her people: for shooting itself into the Sea like a Horn (which the Britain's call Kerne) and inhabited by them whom the Saxons named Willia; of these two compounded words it became Cornwallia. Not to trouble the Reader with the Fable of Corineus, cousin to King Brute, who in free gift received this County in reward of his prowess, for wrestling with the Grant Gogmagog, and breaking his neck from the Cliff of Dever, as ●e of Monmouth hath fabuled. (2) Touching the temperature of this County, the air thereof is cleansed as with Bellowes, by the Billows that ever work from o●t her environing Seas, where thorough it becometh pure and subtle, and is made thereby very healthful, but withal so 〈◊〉 and shar●e, that it is apt to preserve then to recover health. The spring is not so early as in the more Eastern parts; yet the Summer with a temperate heat recompenseth his slow fostering of the fruits, with their most kindly ripening. The Autumn bringeth a somewhat late harvest: and the Winter, by reason of the Seas warm breath, maketh the cold milder than elsewhere. Notwithstanding that Country is much subject to stormy blasts, who●e violence hath freedom from the open waves, to beat upon the dwellers at Land, leaving many times their houses uncovered. (3) The Soil for the most part is lifted up into many hills, parted a sunder with narrow and short valleys, and a shallow earth doth cover their outside, which by a Sea-weede called Orewood, and a certain kind of fruitful Sea-sand, they make so rank and batten, as is uncredible. But more are the riches that out of those hills are gotten from the Mines of Copper and Tin; which Country was the first, and continueth the best stored in that Merchandise, of any in the world Timaeus the Historian in Pliny reporteth, that the Britaines fetched their Tin in wicker-boats, stitched about with Leather And D●octo●us 〈◊〉 of Augustus Caesar's time writeth, that the Britaines in this part digged Tin out of 〈◊〉 ground, which by Merchants was carried into Gallia, and thence to Narborne, as it were to a Ma●: Which howsoever the Englis-Saxons neglected, yet the Normans made great benefit thereof, especially Richard brother to King Henry the third, who was Earl of Cornwall, and by those Tin- 〈◊〉 became exceedingly rich: for the intentions of the Mo●res having stopped up the Tinne-Mines 〈◊〉, and them in Germany not discovered before the year of Christ 1240. these in Cornwall 〈…〉 the want in all parts of the world. This Earl made certain Tinne-Lawes, which with liberties and privileges were confirmed by Earl Edmund his son. And in the days of King Ed●●● the third the Commonweal of Tinne-workes from one body was divided into four, and a 〈…〉 of the Stan●●●rs appointed than judge. (4) The Borders of this Shire on all parts but the East is bound in with the Sea: and had Tamer 〈◊〉 his course but four miles further to the North, betwixt this County and Devonshire, it might have been rather accounted an Island, than stood with the May●e Her length is from Launston to the 〈◊〉, containing by measure 60 miles: and the broadest part, stretching along by the Tamer, is fully forty, l●s●ening thence still lesser like a horn. (5) The ancient Inhabitants known to the Romans, were the Danmonij, that spread themselves 〈◊〉 into Devonshire also, by the report of Diodorus Siculus, a most courteous and civil people: and by Mechael their Poet extolled for 〈◊〉 and strength of lim●●es: nor therein doth he take the liberty that Poets are allowed, to add to the subject whereof they write, but truly reporteth what we see by them performed, whom activity surmount many other people. When the Heathen Saxons had seated themselves in the best of this Land, and forced the Christian Britain's into these rocky parts, than did Cornwall abound in Saints, unto whose honour most of the Churches were erected, by whose names they are yet known and called. To speak nothing of Ursula that Counties Duke's daughter, with her company of canonised Virgin-Saints, that are now reputed but to trouble the Calendar. These Britaines in Cornwall so fenced the Country, and defended themselves, that to the reign of King Athelstant they held out against the Saxons, who subduing those Western Parts, made Tamar the Bounder betwixt them and his English, whose last Earl of the British Blood was called Candorus. (6) But William the Bastard created Robert (his half-brother by Herlotta their mother) the first Earl of the Normans race: and Edward the Black Prince, the ninth from him, was by his Father King Edward the third invested the first Duke of Cornwall, which Title ever since hath continued in the Crown. (7) The commodities of this Shire, ministered both by Sea and Soil, are many and great; for besides the abundance of Fish that do suffice the Inhabitants, the Pilchard is taken, who in great skulls swarm about the Coast, whence being transported to France, Spain, and Italy. yield a yearly revenue of gain unto Cornwall: wherein also Copper and Tin so plentifully grow in the utmost part of this Promontory, that at a low water the veins thereof lie bare, and are seen: and what gain that commodity begets, is vulgarly known. Neither are these Rocks destitute of Gold nor Silver, yea and Diamonds shaped and pointed Angle-wise, and smoothed by Nature herself, whereof some are as big as Walnuts, inferior to the Orient only in blackness and hardness. Many are the Ports, Bays, and Havens that open into this Shire, both safe for arrivage, and commodious transport; whereof Falmouth is so copious, that an hundred Ships may therein ride at Anchor apart by themselves, so that from the tops of their highest Masts, they shall not see each other, and lie most safely under the winds. (8) This County is fruitful in Corn, Cattle, Sea-fish, and Fowl: all which, with other provisions for pleasures and life, are traded thorough twentietwo Market-towns in this Shire, whereof Launston and Bodman are the best; from which last, being the middle of the Shire, the Pole is elevated to the degree of Latitude 50▪ 35. minutes, and for Longitude from the first West point, 15. 13. minutes, as Mercator hath measured them. (9) Memorable matters both for antiquity and strangeness of sight, are these: At Boske●●● upon the South-west of her Promontory, is a Trophy erected, which are eighteen Stones placed round in compass, and pitched twelve foot each from others, with another far bigger in the very centre. These do show some Victory there attained, either by the Romans, or else King Athelstane. At the foot of the Rocks near unto S. Michael's Mount, in the memory of our fathers, were digged up Speare-heads, Axes, and Swords of Brass, wrapped in linen, the weapons that the Cimbrians and ancient Britain's anciently used. At Camelford likewise pieces of Armours both for horse and man, are many times found in digging of the ground, imputed to be the signs of that fight wherein Mordred was slain, and wherein great Arthur received his death's wound. And at Cas●le-Dennys are the Trenches wherein the Danes lodged when they first minded to subdue the Land, In the Parish S Clare, two stones are pitched, one of them inscribed with a strange Character, and the other called the other half stone The Hurlers also, fabuled to be men metamorphosed into stones; but in truth show a note of some Victory, or else are so set for Landmarks Bounders. There also the Wring-cheese doth show itself, which are huge Rocks heaped one upon another, and the lowest of them the least, fashioned like a Cheese, lying pressed under the rest of those Hills, which seemeth very dangerous to be passed under 〈◊〉 near to Pensans, and unto Mountsbay, a fa●●e more strange Rock standeth, namely, Main Amber, which lieth mounted upon others of meaner size, with so equal a counterpoise, that a man may move it with the push of his finger, but no strength remove it out of his place. (10) Religious houses built, and suppressed within the limits of Cornwall, the fairest and greatest for account, were Launston, S. Neotes, S. Buriens, S. Michael's Mount, and S. Germane a Bishop● See: so was Bodman also, from whence King Edward the Confessor removed it unto the City of Encester. SUMMERSETSHIRE. CHAPTER XI. SWMMERSET-SHIRE is both a rich and spacious Country, having the Severne Sea beating upon it on the North-side, the South part bordering upon Devon and Dorset shires, the West confined with Devon-shire, and the East and North-East upon Wiltshire, and Gloucester-shire. It took the name of Sommerton (sometime the chief Town of this Shire) whence in the ancient Historian Asserius, this County is called Sommertunensis, that is, Sommertun-shire. (2) The form thereof is large, bearing itself still wider as it stretcheth into the middle part thereof, and contains in length from Brackley near unto Frome-Selwood Eastward, to Our in the West, Miles 55. In breadth from Porshut point in the North, to Chard Southward, is somewhat above forty miles. The whole circumference is about 204. miles. (3) The air is mild and pleasing, and for the most part subject to such temperate dispositions as the Sommer-season affordeth, whence some have erroneously conceited, that the Region borrowed her name from the nature of her Clime: yet how delightefull so ever it is in the time of Summer, with change of the season it may well change her pleasing name, and borrow some Winterly denomination; so full of wet, so miry and moorish it is; in so much as the Inhabitants can hardly travel to and fro without their great encumbrance. (4) Howbeit they pass over this with all patience, knowing their ensuing seasonable profits far to exceed any present detriments and displeasures: for as it is foul, so it is fruitful, which makes them comfort themselves with this Proverb, that What is worst for the Rider, is best for the Abider: the Soil and Globe thereof being very fertile, and every side garnished with Pastures and delightful Meadows, and beautified with Manor houses both many and fair; and (in a word) hath every thing in it to content the purse, the heart, the eye, at home: and sufficient Ports to give entertainment to commodities from abroad. (5) The ancient Inhabitants that possessed this Province were the Belgae, who spread themselves far and wide, as well here as in Wiltshire, and the inner parts of Hamshire: who being branched from the Germans, conferred the names of those places from whence they came, upon these their seats where they resided. (6) The general profits of this Province are Corn and Cattle, wherewith it is so plentifully stored, as it may challenge any neighbouring Country for the quantity to make show of Cattle so fat, or Grain so rich. Some places are peculiarly enriched by Lead-mines, as Mindiphiis, (perchance so called of the deep mines) by Leiland aptly termed Minerarij, Minerall-hils, which yield plenty of Lead, the most Merchantable Commodity that is in England, and vented into all parts of the world Some are beautified with Diamons', as S Vincent Rock, whereof there is great plenty, and so bright of colour, as they might equalise Indian Diamonds, if they had their hardness yet being so many and so common, they are less sought after or commended (7) This Country is famoused by three Cities, Bath, Wells, and Bristol The first takes name of the hot Baths, which Antonine called Aqua Solis, The waters of of the Sun; Stephanus, Badiza; we at this day Bathe, and the Latinists Bathonia: a place of continual concourse for persons of all degrees, and almost of all diseases, (whence it was sometimes called Ak●man cester) who by divine providence do very often find relief there, the Springs thereof by reason of their Mineral and sulphurous passage, being of such exceeding power and medicinable heat, as that they cure and conquer the rebellious stubbornness of corrupt humours, in respect of which admirable virtues, some have fabled, that they were first conveyed by Magic Art. To testify the antiquity of this place, m●ny Images and Roman Inscriptions are found in the walls, which can now be hardly read, they are so worn and eaten into by age. Wells (as Leiland reporteth) was sometimes called Theodorodunum, but from whence it had that denomination he makes no mention: The name it now beareth is taken (as some think) from the River there, which King Kinewulph in his Charter An 766. calleth Welwe, or (as others) from the Wel● or Springs which there break forth, and whereupon that See (under whose jurisdiction is also the City of Bath) hath been anciently called Pontanensis Ecclesi●, the Fountaine-Church: where the Cathedral built by King Inas to the memory of S. Andrew, is very beautiful and richly endowed. The City is likewise well replenished both with Inhabitants and seemly buildings. Whose government is managed by a Major yearly elected, a Recorder, and seven Masters, having the assistance of sixteen Burgesses, a Town-clerk, and two Sergeants at Mace. Whose Latitude is 51. 20. minutes, and Longitude 17. 31. minutes. Bristol is not so ancient, as it is fair and well seated: The beauty of it being such, as for the bigness thereof, it scarce gives place to any City of England, and doth worthily deserve the Saxon name Bright-stad: whose pleasantness is the more, by reason that the River avon scours through the midst of it, which together with the benefit of Sews under all the streets, clears the City of all noisome filth and uncleanness. It is not wholly seated in this County of Somerset, but one part thereof in Gloucestershire but because it is an entire County of itself, it denies subjection unto either, having for its own government both a Bishop, with a well furnished College, and a Major, with a competent assistance of Aldermen, and other Officers for Civil affairs. (8) This Province hath been the Theatre of many Tragical events and bloody Battles: the Danes did grievously afflict Porlock by cruel Piracies, in the year eight hundred eight●e six. Yet near unto Pen a little village neighbouring upon North Cadbury, Edmund, surnamed Iron-side, gave them a notable soil, as he was pursuing Ca●●tus from place to place, for usurping the Crown of England. And Keniwalth (a West-Saxon) in the same place had such a day against the britains, that they ever after stood in awe of the English-Saxons prowess. Marianus relateth that not far from Bridge-water as the D●●es were straggling abroad, Ealstan Bishop of Sherbourne did so foil their Forces in the year 845 as their minds were much discomfited, and their powers utterly disabled. Ni●ius also writeth, that King Arthur did so defeat the English-Saxons in a battle at Cadbury, that it deserved to be made perpetuously memorable. Neither is Mo●s Badonicus (now Bannesdowne) less famous for Arthur's victories. And King Elfred in another battle not far from hence gave the Danes such an overthrow, as he forced them to submission, and induced Godrus their King to become a Christian, himself being Godfather to him at the ●ont. So happy is this Region, and so beholding to Nature and Art for her strengths and fortifications, as she hath always been able to defend herself, and offend her enemies. (9) Neither hath it been less honoured with beauteous houses consecrated to Religion: such was that of Black-charons' at Barelinch in the first limit of this Shire Westward: and King Athelstan built a Monastery in an Island called Muchelney (that is to say) the great Island, which is between the River's jewel and Pedred, running together, where the defaced walls and ruins thereof are yet to be seen King Henry the third also erected a Nunnery at Witham, which was afterwards the first house of the Carthusian Monks in England, as Hin●●n not far off was the second. But above all other for antiquity, glory, and beauty was the Abbey of Glaste●bury, whose beginning is fetched even from joseph of A ●●athea, which Deni Bishop of S. David's repaired, being fallen to ruin, and King Inas lastly builded a fair and stately Church in this Monastery, though it be now made even with the ground, the ruins only showing how great and magnificant a Seat it hath anciently been; which several houses were thus beautified by bounteous Princes, for religious purposes, and to retire the mind from worldly services, though blinded times and guides diverted them to superstitious and lewd abuses. (10) Other memorable places are these, Camal●t a very steep hill hard to be ascended which appears to have been a work of the Romans by diverse Coins digged up there, on the top whereof are seen the lineaments of a large and ancient Castle, which the Inhabitants report to have been the Palace of King Arthur. Ilchester, which at the coming of the Normans was so populous, that it had in it an hundred and seven Burges●es, and it appears to be of great antiquity by the Roman Caesar's Coins, oftentimes sound there. The Church yard of Aualonia or Glastenbury, wh●re King Arthur's Sepulchre was searched for by the command of King Henry the second, which was found under a stone, with an Inscription upon it fastened, almost nine foot in the ground. Also Dunstere, where (as is reported) a great Lady obtained of her husband so much Pasture ground in common by the Town side, for the good and benefit of the Inhabitants, as she was able in a whole day to go about barefoot. WILT-SHIRE. CHAPTER XII. WILT-SHIRE, is enclosed upon the Northwith Gloucestershire, upon the East is bounded with Bark-shire, upon the South with Dorset and Hampshire, and upon the West is confronted against partly by Gloucester, and the rest by Somerset shires. (2) The form thereof ●s both long and broad; for from Inglesham upon Thamisis in the North, to Burgat Damarum in the South, are thirty nine miles: the broadest part is from Bu●termer Eastward, to the Shire-stones in the West, being twenty nine; the whole in Circumference is one hundred thirty nine miles. (3) For Air, it is seated in a temperate Climate, both sweet, pleasant, and wholesome; and for soil (saith john of Sarisbury) is exceeding fertile and plentiful, yea, and that with variety. (4) The Northern part which they call North Wilt shire, riseth up into delectable hills, attired with large Woods, and watered with clear Rivers, whereof Isis is one, which soon becometh the most famous in the Land. The South part is more even, yielding abundently grass and corn; and is made the more fruitful by the River's Wily, Adder, and Au●n. The midst of this County is most plain, and thereby is known and commonly called Salesbury 〈◊〉, and lie so levall indeed, that it doth limit the Horizon: or hardly can a man see from the one side to the other. These Plains graze an infinite number of sheep, whose fleeces and flesh bring in an yearly revenue to their owners. (5) Anciently this County was possessed by the Belga, who are seated by Ptolemie in Hampshire, Somerset shire, and in this Tract; and they (as it seemeth by Caesar) were of the Belga in Gaul These (as some hold) were subdued by Vespasian, Lieutenant of the second Legion under Claudius, when the foundations of his future greatness were in these parts first laid by his many Victories over the Britain's. And herein surely the Romans seated; for besides Yan●sburie Trench, by Tradition held to be his, in many other Forts in this Shire the Tract of their footing hath been left, and the stamped Coins of their Emperors found, an apparent testimony of their abode. (6) After them the Westsaxons made it a part of their Kingdom, whole border was avon, as witnesseth Athelward, though the Mercians many times encroached upon them, whereby many great Battles, as Malmesbury tells us, betwixt them were fought, when in the young years of their Heptarchy each sought to enlarge his, by the lessening of the next: but grown unto more ripeness, they assigned their limits by a great and long ditch crossing thorough the midst of these Plains, which for the wonder thereof is supposed by the vulgar to be the work of the Devil, and is called of all, Wansdike, undoubtedly of Woden, the Saxons Ancestor and great reputed God, where a little village yet standeth, and retaineth to name Wodens-burg At this place, in Anno 590. Ceaulin the West-Saxon, received such a foil of the Britain's and his Countrymen, that he was forced to forsake his Kingdom, and to end his days in exile, becoming a pitiful spectacle even unto his enemies. And in this place Ina the West-Saxon joined Battle with Ceolred the Mercian, whence both of them departed with equal loss. The like was at Bradford by Ke●●lwach and Cuthred; at Wilton, betwixt Egbert and Beornwolfe; at Edindon, where King Elfred was vanquisher of the Danes; and at Wilton, where the Danes won the day against him. With as bloody success, though not happening by sword, was the issue of that Synod assembled at Colne, a small Town in this County, in the year of Christ jesus 977 where being hotly debating for the single life, and against the marriages of the Clergy, what wanted by the Word to prove their divorce, was supplied by a Stratagem, and that very bloody; for suddenly the main timber broke, and down fell the floor with the Nobles and Prelates, the Gentlemen and Commons, whereby a great number were hurt, and many more slain; only Dunstan the Precedent and mouth for the Monks, escaped untouched, the joist whereon his Chair stood remaining most firm: which confirmed the sentence of their separations, whom God had conjoined, and became the fall and snare of much incontinency in both sexes. (7) The chiefest City of this Shire is Salesburie, removed from a higher, but a far more convenient place; whose want of water was not so great in the mother, as is supplied and replenished in the daughter, every street almost having a River running thorough her midst; and for sumptuous and delicate buildings, is inferior to none. The Cathedral, a most rich magnificent Church, was begun by Richard Poor, Bishop, and with forty years continuante was raised to her perfect beauty: wherein are as many windows as there are days in the year, as many cast pillars of Marble, as there are hours in the year, and as many gates for entrance as there are months in the year. Neither doth this City retain true honour to herself, but imparteth hers, and receiveth honour from others, who are entitled Earls of Salesburie, whereof eight noble Families have been dignified since the Normans Conquest. This City's situation is in the degree of Latitude 51. 10 minutes, and from the first West point observed by Mercator, 18 Degrees, and 31. minutes of Longitude. (8) Over this, old Salesburie showeth itself, where K●n●●k overcame the Britain's, and where Canutus the Dane did great damage by fire. This formerly had been the Seat of the Romans: as likewise was Lecham, as by their Coins digged up is apparent: so were Brokenbridge and Cosham, the Courts of the Saxon Kings But Fortune long since hath turned her face from all these, as lately she did from many ancient and religious foundations planted in this Province, whereof Mal●●esburie was the most famous I will not with Monmouth avouch the foundation thereof unto Mulmutius, but by true Records from Maidulph a Scot, a man of great learning, that therein built a Cell, and lead an Hermit's life, whereof Beda calleth it the City of Maidulph, and we by contraction, Malmesburie, Adelme his Disciple and Successor, built here a fair Monastery, which Athelstan the Monarch richly endowed, and left his body after death there to rest. Neither hath any graced this more than William her Monk, in recording to posterities the Chronicles of our Land, concerning both the Church and Commonweal, wherein himself lived and wrote those Histories. (9) Ambresburie for repute did second this, built by A●fritha, King Edgar his wife, to expiate the sin of murder which she committed upon young Edward her son in law, that hers might be King. In this place Queen Eleanor, widow to King Henry the third, renounced all royal pomp, and devoted herself unto God in the habit of a Nun. Other places erected for piety, were at Salesburie, Lacock, Stanley, Wilton, Luichurch, Farnleg, Bradstole, Briopune, and Brombore. These grafts grown to full greatness, were cut down by the Pruiner, lest the cankers thereof should infect the whole body (as by them was alleged) and their Revenues bestowed upon far better uses, both for the bringing up of youth, and the maintenance of estate. BARK-SHIRE. CHAPTER XIII. BARK-SHIRE, whether of the Eo●-woods there sited, according to the censure of Asserius Menevensis, or from a naked and beare-lesse Oke-tree, whereunto the people usually resorted in troublesome times, to conferte for the State, I determine not: only the County a long time hath been so called, and bounded with other in manner as followeth: The Northpart is parted by Thamisis from Buckingham and Oxford-shires; the South near Kennet doth tract upon Hampshire; the East is confined with the County of Surrey; and the West with Wiltshire and Glocestershire is held in. (2) The form of this Shire doth somewhat resemble a Sandal for a man's foot, lying long-wise from East to West, in which part she is broadest, the middle most narrow, and then spreading wider like to the heel: though for her rich endowments and stately magnificence, it may be well accounted the heart of the whole. (3) The length thereof from Inglesham in the West, to old Windsor in the East, extendeth unto forty miles; from Inkpen to Wightham, the broadest part from South to North are twentie-foure; the whole in Circumference, about one hundred and twenty miles. (4) The Air is temperate, sweet, and delightful, and prospect for pleasure inferior to none; the Soil is plenteous of corn, especially in the Vale of White-horse, that yieldeth yearly an admirable increase. In a word, for Corn and Cattle, Waters, and Woods, of profit and pleasure, it gives place unto none. (5) Her ancient Inhabitants, by Ptolemie and Caesar, were the Attrebat●, and them of those that descended from Gallia, among whom Comius (conquered by the Dictator) was of good respect, and could do much with the Britain's, who (as Frontinus reporteth) used this stratagem, though it proved nothing at last: he flying before Caesar to recover aid of these Attrebatians, light bedded upon a shelf in the Sea, whereupon hoisting his sails as before a forewind, gave show to his pursuer that they were in swift flight; so that hopeless to hail them, he gave over the chase: yet no sooner had Caesar made over among them, but that some of these people, by name the Bibroces, yielded him subjection, which prued the ruin of all former liberty But when the Romans had rend their own Empire, and retired their Legion into a narrower circuit, the Sa●●ns set foot where their forces had been, and made this County a parcel of their Western Kingdom. The Danes then setting their desire upon spoils, from their roving Pinnaces pierced into these parts, and at Redding fortified themselves betwixt the Rivers Kennet and Tham●●sis, whither after their great overthrow received at Inge●efield by the hand of King Ethelwolfe, they retired for their further safety. (6) This Town King Henry the first most stately beautified with a rich Monastery and strong Castle, where, in the Collegiate Church of the Abbey, himself and Queen (who lay both veiled and crowned) with their daughter Maud the Empress, called the Lady of England, were interred, as the private History of the place avoucheth, though others bestow the bodies of these two Queens elsewhere. The Castle King Henry the second razed to the ground, because it was the refuge for the followers of King Stephen From whence the North-pole is raised in Latitude 51 degrees and 40 minutes, and in Longitude from the first West-point observed by Mercator 19 degrees and 35. minutes. (7) A Castle and Town of greater strength and antiquity was Wallingford, by Antony and Ptolemie called Galtena, the chiefest City of the Attribatians, whose large circuit, and strong fortifications, show plainly, that it was a place of the Romans abode, and since in a conceived safety hath made many very bold, especially when the sparks of England's civil dissensions were forced to flame in case of the Crown betwixt Maud the Empress and King Stephen, whither herself and associates resorted as their surest defence. (8) But of far greater magnificence and state is the Castle of Windsor, a most Princely Palace and Mansion of his Majesty. I will not with jeffrey affirm it to be built by King Arthur, but with better authority say, it was so thirsted after by the Conqueror, that by a composition with the Abbot of Westminster, whose then it was, he made it to be the King's Possession, as a Place besides the pleasures, very commodious to entertain the King In this Castle that victorious Prince King Edward the third was borne; and herein after he had subdued the French and Scots, held he at one and the same time, as his Prisoners, john King of France, and David King of Scotland Neither was it ever graced with greater Majesty then by the institution of the most honourable Order of the Garter, a signal Ornament of Martial Prowess: the invention thereof some ascribe to be from a Garter falling from his Queen, or rather from joan Countess of Salisbury, a Lady of an incomparable beauty, as she danced before him, whereat the bystanders sm●●ing, he gave the impress to check all evil conceits, and in golden Letters imbelished the Garter with this French Posy, HONI SOIT QVI MALY PENSE. And yet that worthy Clarenceaux alleging the book of the first institution, finds the invention to be more ancient, as when King Richard the first warred against the Turks, Saracens, Cypress, and Acon, he girt the legs of certain choice Knights with a attach of leather, which promised a future glory to the wearers. The most Princely Chapel thereof is graced with the bodies of those two great Kings, Henry the sixth, and Edward the fourth, whom the whole Kingdom was too little to containo, the one of Lancaster, the other of York, where they rest now united in one mould, with a branch of both those Houses, even King Henry the eight, who there lieth also interred, and rests in the Lord. (9) Other places of note in this Shire are Sinodum in the North, and Watham in the East, both of them places of the Romans residence, as by their monies these oftentimes found appeareth. Neither was Sunning the least in this Tract, that had been the Seat of eight Bishops before the See was translated thence unto Shirburne, or that to Salisbury▪ Wantage also is not wanting of honour, in bringing to life that learned and most valiant King Ealfred, the scourge of the Danes, and great Monarch of the English. And Finchhamsted for wonder inferior to none, where (as our Writers do witness) that in the year, a thousand one hundred, a Well boiled up with streams of blood, and fifteen days together continued that Spring, whose waters made red all others where they came, to the great amazement of the beholders. (10) The riches and sweet seats that this Country affordeth, made many devout persons to show their devotions unto true piety, in erecting places for God's divine service, and their exemptions from all worldly business: such were Abington, Redding, Bysham, Bromehall, Hen●ey, Hamme, and Wallingford, whose Votary abusing the intents of their Founders, overthrew both their own Orders and places of professions; all which were dissolved by Act of Parliament, and given the King to dispose at his will. MIDDLESEX. CHAPTER XIIII. MIDDLESEX, so called in regard of the situation, as seated betwixt the Westsaxons and East-Angles, was sometimes, together with Essex and Hartford-shire, that part and portion which the East Saxons enjoyed for their Kingdom: it lieth bordered upon the North with Hartford shire; upon the West by Colne, is severed from Buckingham; the South, by Thamesis from Surrey and Kent; and on the East from Essex, by the River Lea. (2) The length thereof extended from 〈◊〉 in the East, to Morehall upon Colne in the West, is by measure nineteen English miles; and from South 〈◊〉 in the North, to his Majesty's Manor of Hampton-Court in the South, are little above sixteen miles, the whole Circumference extending to ninety miles (3) In fo●●e it is almost square, for air passing temperate, for soil abundantly fertile, and for pasturage and grain of all kinds yielding the best, so that the Wheat of this County hath served a long time for the manchet to our Prince's Table. (4) It lieth seated in a vale most wholesome and rich having some hills also, and them of good 〈◊〉, from whose tops the prospect of the whole is seen like unto Zoar in Egypt, or rather like a Paradise and Garden of God. (5) The ancient Inhabitants known to Caesar, were the Trinobants, whom he nameth to be the most puissant in the Island; whose chief City and State yielding him subjection, made the whole, with less loss to the Romans, to bear the yoke of their own bondage, and to come in under terms of truce. But when their forces in these parts were spent, and the Empire shaken by intestine wars, the Saxons setting their eyes upon so fair a soil, made their footing as sure herein; which lastly with Hartford and Essex, was the portion of the Eastsaxons Kingdom. (6) Five Princely Houses, inheritable to the English Crown, are seated in this Shire, which are, Enfield, Hanworth, Whitehall, S. james, and Hampton-Court, a City rather in show then the Palace of a Prince, and for stately Port and gorgeous building, not inferior to any in Europe. At Thistleworth once stood the Palace of Richard King of the Romans, Earl of Cornwall, which the Lond●ner in a tumultuous broil, burned to the ground: many other stately Houses of our English Nobility, Knights, and Gentlemen, as also of the worshipful Citizens of London, are in this Shire so sumptuously built and pleasantly seated, as the like in the like circuit are no where else to be found. near unto Thamesis entrance into this County, is kept the remembrance of Caesar's entrance over Thamesis, by the name of Coway-Stakes, stuck fast in the bottom to impeach his designs; and further at Stanes a Maire-stone once stood for a mark of jurisdiction, that London had so far upon Thamesis (7) Which City is more ancient than any true record beareth, fabuled from Brute, Troynovant, from Lud, Ludstone: But by more credible Writers, Tacitus, Ptolemy, and Antonine, Londinium, by Aminian●● Mercellinus for her successive prosperity, Augusta, the greatest title that can be given to any: by Britain's, Londayn, by Strangers, Londra, and by us London. This City doth show as the Cedars among other trees, being the seat of the British Kings, the chamber of the English, the model of the Land, and the Mart of the world: for thither are brought the silk of Asia, the spices from Africa, the Balms from Grecia, and the riches of both the Indies East and West: no City standing so long in same, nor any for divine and politic government may with her be compared Her walls were first set by great Constantine the first Christian Emperor, at the suit of his mother, Qu: Helen, reared with rough stone and British Brick three English miles in compass: thorough which are now made seven most fair gates, besides three other passages for entrance. Along the Thamesis, this wall at first ranged and with two gates opened, the one Doure-gate, now Dowgate, and the other Billingsgate, a receptacle for Ships. In the midst of this wall was set a mile-marke (as the like was in Rome) from whence were measured their stations, for carriage or otherwise; the same as yet standeth, and hath been long known by the name of London Stone. Upon the East of this City, the Church of S. Peter's is thought to be the Cathedral of Restitus, the Christians Bishops See, who lived in the reign of Great Constantine; but since S. Paul's in the West part, from the Temple of Diana, assumed that dignity, whose greatness doth exceed any other at this day, and spires so high that twice it hath been consumed by lightning from heaven. Besides this Cathedral, God is honoured in one hundred twenty one Churches more in this City: that is, ninety six within the walls; sixteen without, but within the Liberties; and nine more in her Suburbs; and in F●z. Stephen's time, thirteen Conuents of religious Orders. It is divided into 26 Wards, governed by so many grave Aldermen, a Lord Maior, and two Sheriffs, the yearly choice whereof was granted them by Patent from King john; in whose time also a Bridge of stone was made over Thames, upon nineteen Arches, for length, breadth, beauty, and building, the like again not found in the world. (8) This London (as it were) disdaining bondage, hath set herself on each side, far without the walls, and hath lefther West-gate in the midst, from whence with continual buildings (still affecting greatness) she hath continued her streets unto a King's Palace, and joined a second City to herself, famous for the Seat and Sepulchre of our Kings; and for the Gates of justice, that termely there are opened, only once a Bishops See, whose title died with the man. No walls are set about this City, and those of London are left, to show rather what it was, than what it is: Whose Citizens, as the Lacedæmonians did, do impute their strength in their men, and not in their walls, how strong toever. Or else for their multitude, cannot be circulated, but (as another jerusalem) is inhabited without walls, as Zachary said. The wealth of this City (as Isay once spoke of Nilus) grows from the Revenues and harvest of her South-bounding Thames; whose traffic for merchandizing, is like that of Tyrus, whereof Ezekiel speaks, and stands in abundance of Silver, Iron, Tin, and Led, etc. And from London her channel is navigable, straitened along with medowing borders, until she taketh her full liberty in the Germane Seas. Upon this Thamesis the Ships of Tharsis seem to ride, and the Navy, that rightly is termed the Lady of the Sea, spreads her sail. Whence twice with lucky success hath been accomplished, the compassing of the universal Globe. This River, Canutus, laying siege against London, sought by digging to divert, and before him the Danes had done great harms in this City, yet was their State recovered by King Elfred, and the River kept her old course, notwithstanding that cost. In the times of the Normans, some civil broils have been attempted in this City, as in the days of King john, whereinto his Barons entered, and the Tower yielded unto Lewis. And again, Wat Tyler herein committed outrageous cruelties, but was worthily struck down by the Mayor and slain in Smithfield. This City's graduation for Latitude is the degree 51. 45. minutes, and in Longitude 20. degrees 39 minutes. (9) In this County at Barnet, upon Easter-day, a bloody battle was fought, betwixt Henry the sixth and Edward the fourth, wherein were slain one Marks, one Earl, three Lords, and with them ten thousand Englishmen. ESSEX. CHAPTER XV. ESSEX, by the Normans exsessa, and by the vulgar Essex; is a County large in compass, very populous, and nothing inferior to the best of the Land. (2) The ●orme thereof is somewhat Circular, excepting the East part, which shooteth herself with many Promontories into the Sea; and from Horsey Island to Haidon in the West, (the broadest part of the Shire) are by measure forty miles; and the length from East-Ha●● upon Thamesis in the South, to S●urmere upon the River Stow in the North, are thirtiefive miles; the whole in Circumference one hundred forty six miles. (3) It lieth bounded upon the North, with Suffolk and Cambridge-Shires, upon the West with Hertford and Middlesex, upon the South by Thamesis is parted from Kent, and the East-side thereof is altogether washed with the Germane Sea. (4) The air is temperate and pleasant only towards the waters somewhat aguish: the soil is rich and fruitful, though in some places sandy and barren; yet so that it never frustrates the husbandman's hopes, or fills not the hands of her haruest-labourers: but in some part so fertile, that after three years' glebe of Saffron, the Land for 18. more, will yield plenty of Barley, without either dung or other fattening earth (5) Her ancient Inhabitants known to the Romans, were by Caesar called the Trinobants, of whom in the former Chapter we have spoken, and in our History shall speak more at large. But this name perished with the age of the Empire, the Saxons presently framed a new; and with Hertford and Middlesex made it their Eastsaxons Kingdom, until that Egbert brought this and the whole into an entire and absolute Monarchy: the Daues after them laid so sore for this Province, that at ●eamfleet and Havenet (now Shobery) they fortified most strongly; and at Barklow, (besides the hills mounted for their burials) the Danewort with her red berries, so plentifully grow, that it is held and accounted to spring from the blood of the Danes which in that place was spilt, and the herb as yet is called from them the Danes-bloud; neither yet were they quelled to surcease that quarrel; but at Ashdowne abode the Iron-side in fight, wherein so much blood of the English was spilt, that Canutus their King in remorse conscience, built a Church in the place, to pacify God for the sins of his people: But when the Normans had got the garland of the whole, many of their Nobles there seated themselves, whose posterities since, both there and elsewhere, are spread further abroad in the Realm. (6) The Commodities that this Shire yieldeth, are many and great, as of Woods, Corn, Cattle, Fish, Forests, and Saffron; which last groweth with such gain and increase upon her North parts, that from a split clove much like unto Garlic, a white bluish Flower shortly springeth, from whence fillets of Saffron are gathered before the Sun, and dried, are sold as spice with great gain. From the Lands Canuey, Mersey, Horsey, Northly, Osey, Wallot, and Foulness, great store of Fish and Fowl are daily gotten: and so from their Cattle have they continual increase, which men and boys milk; as well the Ewe as the Kine; whereof they make great and thick Cheese, sold abroad in the Land, and much thereof transported into other Countries. Their Oysters which we call Walfleete, the best in esteem, and are thought from Pa●●●e to have been served in the Romans Kitchens. But lest we should exceed measure in commending, or the people repose their trust in the soil; behold what God can do, to frustrate both in a moment, and that by his meanest creatures: for in our age and remembrance, the year of Christ 1581. an Army of Mice so over ran the Marshes in Dengey Hundred, near unto South-minster in this County, that they shore the grass to the very roots, and so tainted the same with their venomous teeth, that a great Murrain fell upon the Cattle which graed thereon, to the great loss of their owners. (7) The chiefest City for account at this day, in this Shire, is Colchester, built by Coilus the British Prince, one hundred twentie-foure years after the birth of our Saviour Christi (if he of Mo●mouth say true) wherein his son Lucius, Helena, and Constantine, the first Christian King, Empress, and Emperor in the world, were borne: which made Necham for Consiantine to sing as he did. From Colchester there rose a Star, The Rays whereof gave glorious light Throughout the world in climates far, Great Constantine, Rome's Emperor bright. And the Romans to the great honour of Helena inscribed her, Pi●ssima Venerabilis Augusta. But of these we shall be occasioned to speak more hereafter. This City is situated upon the South of the River Coln; from whence it hath the name, and is walled about, raised upon a high Trench of earth, though now much decayed, having six gates of entrance, and three posterns in the West wall, besides nine Watch-Towers for defence, and containeth in compass 1980 paces; wherein stand eight fair Churches, and two other without the walls, for God's divine service: S Tenants and the Black Friars decayed in the Suburbs; Marry Magdalins, the Nunnery, S john's, and the Cruched Friars, all suppressed: within towards the East is mounted an old Castle, and elder ruins upon a trench containing two Acres of ground, whereas yet may be seen the provident care they had against all ensuing assaults. The trade of this Town standeth chiefly in making of Cloth and Bayss, with Says, and other like Stuffs daily invented; and is governed by two Bailiffs, twelve Aldermen, all wearing Scarlet; a Recorder, a Town-clerk, and four Sergeants at Mace. Whose position for Latitude is in the degree 52. 14. minutes; and for Longitude, in the degree 21. and 50. minutes. (8) Places of antiquity and memorable note in this County, I observe the most famous to be Camalodumum, by us Maldon, which was the Royal Seat of Cunobel●● King of the Trino●antes, as by his money therein minted appeareth, about the time of our Saviour's birth: which City afterwards Claudius won from the Britain's, and therein placed a Colony of Soldiers, which were called Victricensis. This City Queen Boduo, in revenge of her wrongs, razed to the ground, what time she stirred their people against Nero, with the slaughter of seventy thousand of the Romans. Of some later and lesser account was Ithanchester, now S. Peter upon the wall, where the Forteuses with their Captain kept, towards the declination of the Roman Empire. In the East Promontory of this County, in the Reign of Richard the second, the teeth of a Giant were found (if they were not of an Elephant) of a marvelous size (saith Ralph Coggeshall) and not far thence, in the reign of Elizabeth, more bones to the like wonder were digged up. (9) I purposely omit the message of a Pilgrim from S. john Baptist, by whom he sent a Ring to King Edward Confessor; for which cause his house took the name Havering: seeing the Monks of those times made no great dainty daily to forge matter for their own advantage: who in this Shire so swarmed that they had houses erected at Waltham, Pritlewell, Tiltey, Dun●ow, Leeye, Hatfeild Peverell, Chelmesford, Coggeshall, Maldon, Earls. coln, Col●hester, S Osths, Saffron-Walden, Hatfield-Bradocke, and more, with great revenues thereto belonging; all which felt the Axes and Hammers of destruction, when the rest of such foundations fell under the ●●●ile of King Henry the eight, who with Hezekiah broke down all these Brazen Serpents. SUFFOLK. CHAPTER XVI. SUFFOLK, in regard of them which were seated in Norfolk, is a Country most plenteous and pleasant for habitation. It is separated from Norfolk, by the Rivers of the lesser Ouse, and Waveney, whose heads meet almost in the midst of her Verge, and that very near together: the one taking course East, and the other full West, upon which part Cambridge-shire doth wholly confront. The South side is severed by Stoure from Essex, and the East together washed with the german Seas. (2) The Air is good, sweet, and delectable, and in some parts, of some of our best Physicians, held to be the best in the Land: the Soil is rich, fruitful, and with all things well replenished; in a word, nothing wanting for pleasure of profit. (3) The form thereof is some what Cressant, shooting up narrower into the North, and spreading wider towards the South, whose broadest part is about twenty miles: but from East to West much more; for from Easton point (the furthest of this Shire, yea of all Britain into the Sea) unto great Ouse River, her Western bounder, are forty five miles, and the whole in circumference, about one hundred forty six miles. (4) Anciently this part of the Island was possessed by the Iceni, who as it seemeth by Tacitus, joined in Amity with the Romans, a mighty people (saith he) and never shaken with wars before the reign of Claudius, but then by Ostorius were vanquished, though not without great slaughter of the Romans; and in a Battle against them, M. Ostorius the son of the General, won great honour in saving of a Roman Citizens life; so ready were they to give and receive Honours to themselves, but slightly to pass over, and to smother far greater exploits of the Britain's: which notwithstanding long in these parts they could not do; for the wrongs of the Icenians growing intolerable, who by the Roman Soldiers were put out of their rightful possessions, their Princes accounted no better than Slaves, and their Queen whipped in most ignominious manner; under Boduo they wrought their revenge, as in the History (Christ assisting) shall be further related. Next to these Icenians, were the Saxons that got their footing into these parts, and of them, this with Norfolk, Cambridge shire, and the I'll of Ely, was made their East-Angles Kingdom; though as it seemeth ever in subjection either to the Mercians, or to the Kings of Kent whose offspring ending in S Edmund the Martyr, after the Danes had laid it most desolate, Edward the Elder subdued it unto his Westsaxons Monarchy: and that likewise ending in King Edward the Confessor, many Noble Normans got their possessions in these parts, whose offspring are plenteously replenished in this Shire to this day. (5) The commodities of this Shire are many and great, whereof the chiefest consisteth in Corn, in Cattle, Cloth, Pasturage, Woods, Sea-fish and Fowl; and as Abbo Floricensis hath depainted, this County is of a green and passing fresh hue, pleasantly replenished with Orchards, Gardens and Groues● thus he described it above six hundred years since, and now we find as he hath said; to which we may add their gain from the Pa●le, whose Cheeses are traded not only throughout England, but into Germany, France, and Spain, and are highly commended by Pantaleon the Physician, both for colour and taste. (6) And had Ipswich (the only eye of this Shire) been as fortunate in her Surname, as she is blessed with Commerce and buildings, she might 〈◊〉 have borne the title of a City: neither ranked in the 〈…〉 and seat, doth equal most places of the Land be●●● 〈…〉 about, both by a Rampire of earth, mounted along her North and West parts, and places of entrance where gates have stood; which no doubt, by the Danes were cast down, in the year of jesus Christ 991. when they sacked with spoil all these Seacoasts: and again in the year one thousand, laid the streets desolate, and the houses on heaps: yet afterwards recovering both breath and beauty, her buildings from St●ke-Church in the South, to Saint Margaret's in the North, now contain 19●0 paces, and from S Helen's in the East, to S. Matthewes Church in the West, are no less than 2120. full of streets plenteously inhabited, wherein are twelve Parish-Churches seated, besides them suppressed; such were Christ-Church, S George's, S. james, the White, the Black, and Grey Friars▪ The Site of this Town is removed from the Equator, unto the degree 52. 25 minutes: and by Mercators' observation, from the first West points 22. degrees, 9 minutes: and is yearly governed by two Bailiffs, and ten Port-men, all wearing Scarlet with twenty-foure of their Common-council in purple: a Recorder, a Town-clerk, five Sergeants, whereof one is for the Admiralty, a Beadle, and Common Crier, all in blue, with the Town's Arms on their Sleeve. The other Eye of this shire is S. Edmund●bury. By Abbo the Royal Town, wherein at the daybreak of the Saxons conversion, Sigebert King of the East-Angles founded a Christian Church: and upon the occasion of King Edmounds burial (who at Hoxon was shot to death) hath been ever since called S Edmunds-bury, where was built to his honour one of the fairest Monasteries in the world, begun by King Canute, much affrighted with the seeming appearance of that Martyr's Ghost, who to expiate the Sacrilegious impiety of his Father Suenus, enriched the place with many endowments, and offered up his own Crown upon the 〈◊〉 Martyr's Tomb. For the beauty and buildings of this Abbey and Town, let Leyland for me declare: 〈…〉 finely seated, so delicately, upon the easy ascent of an hill, 〈…〉 stately Abbey, either for revenues or incomparable 〈…〉 then a Monastery, so many Gates for entrance, and some of them brass, so many Towers, and a most glorious Church, upon which attend three others, standing all in the same Churchyard, all of them passing fine, and of a curious workmanship. Whose ruins lie in the dust, lamenting their fall, moving the beholders to piety their case. near unto this Town a great Battle was fought by Robert Bossu, Earl of Leicester, against his Sovereign King Henry the second: but was worthily overcome by Richard Lucy, the King's high justice, himself and wife taken, with many Flemings and Englishmen slain. (7) Other places worthy of remembrance this County affords; such is Ex●ing in the West, formerly famous for the birth of S. Andrey, daughter to King Anna, one of the three names of the Shires division. Rendl●sham in the East, where Redwald the first Christian in this Kingdom held his Court: and Hadley in her South, where Guthrum the Dane whom Elfred baptised, was buried. And things of stranger note are the limits of the East-Angles Territories, running along New-market heath, vulgarly called the Divels-ditch: the like fable is formally told by Nubrigensis, that at Wulpet in the heart of this Shire, two green boys of Satyr's kind arose out of the ground, from the Antipodes; believe it if you will: and Ralph Coggeshall in the Monuments of C●l●hester, declareth, that a Fish in all parts like a man was taken near Orford, and for six months was kept in the Castle, whence after he escaped again to the Sea. As strange, but most true, was a crop of Pease, that without tillage or sowing grew in the Rocks, betwixt this Orford and Aldebrough, in the year 1555 when by unseasonable weather a great dearth was in the Land: there in August were gathered above one hundred Quarters, and in blossoming remained as many more, where never grass grew, or earth ever seen, but hard solid Rocks three yards deep under their roots. (8) Places separated from common use, and devoted to God and his service by religious Princes, were at S. Edmund's, Ipswich, Ikleworth, Blithborow, Clare, jaeston, Burgh Castle, wherein Sigebert King of the East-Angles entered the profession of a Monk: but was thence forced by his people, to fight against the Mercians: in which Battle he was slain. And Dunwich, where Foelix founded his Episcopal See. These with many others in this County were suppressed in the fall of the Monasteries, and their Revenues assumed by King Henry the Eight. NORFOLK. CHAPTER XVII. NORFOLK is an Island inclining to an oval form, closed on the South part with the Rivers of Waveney and the l●sser Ouse, which divides it from Suffolk. On the East and North with the german Ocean; on the West toward Cambridge-shire, with some branches of the greater Ouse; toward Lincolne-shire with that part of the neve which passeth from Wisbitch into the Washeses. It containeth in length (from Yarmouth to Wisbitch) about fifty miles▪ In breadth (from Thetford to Wells) about thirty. The whole Circuit is about two hundred forty two miles. The Name ariseth from the situation of the people, who being the Norther-most of the Kingdom of East-Angles, are therefore called the Norfolk, as the Souther-most of the Southfolke▪ The Air is sharp and piercing, especially in the Champion, and near the Sea● therefore it delaieth the Spring and Harvest, the situation of the Country inclining thereto, as being under the 53. degree of Latitude. The So●e diverse: about the Towns commonly good; as Clay; Chalk, or sa● earth, well watered, and with some wood: upward to the Heaths naked, dry, and barren: Marsland and Flegg exceeding rich; but Marsland properly for Pastere, Flegg for Corne. (2) The parts from Thetford to Buruham, and thence Westward, as also along the Coast, be counted Champion: the rest (as better furnished with woods) Woodland. The Champion aboundeth with Corn, Sheep, and Coneys, and here in the barren Heaths (as the providence of our Ancestors hath of old disposed them) are very profitable. For on them principally lie our Fould courses, called of the Saxons (whose institution they therefore seem to be) Paldyoeun, that is, Liberty of fold or fouldage. These Heaths by the Compasture of the sheep (which we call Tath:) are made so rich with Corn, that when they fall to be sown, they commonly match the fruitfullest grounds in other Countries and laid again, do long after yield a sweeter and more plentiful feed for sheep: so that each of them maintain other, and are the chiefest wealth of our Country. The Woodland (fitter for grass) is maintained chiefly by feeding of cattle, yet well stored with Corn and Sheep. The Coast is fortunate in Fish▪ and hath many good Harbours, whereof Lenn and Yarmouth be the mother-ports, and of great traffic: Wells and Blakeney next in estimation. The whole County aboundeth with Rivers and pleasant Springs, of which the Ouse is chiefest, by whose plentiful branches, the Isle of Fly, the Towns and Shires of Cambridge, Humington, and the County of Suffolk vent and receive Commodities. The next is Hierus or Year, passing from Norwich to Yarmouth, where it receiveth the Bure coming from Aylsham, both of them of great service for water-carriages, but very notable for their plenty of 〈◊〉 for some one man out of an hold upon the Bure, hath drawn up ordinarily once a year, between two Nets, about five or six score busness of Fish at one draught. The Waveney and the lesser Ouse are also Navigable and of great use. The residue I omit. (3) ay he people were anciently called ICENI, as they also of Suffolk, Cambridge-shire, and Huntington-shire, and supposed to be of them whom Caesar nameth Cenimagni; Ptolemie, Simeni; some T●gens. Their manners were likely to be as the rest of the Britain's, barbarous at those times, as appeareth by Caesar and Tacitus, Neither can I otherwise commend their Successors the Saxons: for so also their own Countryman Ethelwerd termeth them. Since the entry of the Normans, they have been accounted civil and ingenious, apt to good Letters, adorning Religion with more Churches and Monasteries, than any Shire of England, and the Laws and Seats of justice (for many ages) with some excellent men; from whom most of our chief Families, and some of the greatest Nobility of the Kingdom, have taken advancement And herein is Norfolk fortunate, that as Crete boasted of an hundred Cities, so may she of an hundred Families of Gentlemen, never yet attainted of high Treason. How the government of this Country was about Caesar's time, is uncertain, but (agreeable no doubt to the rest of the Britain's) under some peculiar Toparch or Regulus, as Tacitus termeth him. The latter Romans held it by two Garrisons, one at Gariannum near Yarmouth; the other at Branedunum, now called Brancastre, both of horse, and commanded by the Comes Maritims Tractus, as Marcellinus calleth him, termed after Comes Littoris Saexonici Upon the entry of the Saxons, this County with Suffolk fell in the portion of the Angles, and about the year five hundred sixty one, were together erected into a Kingdom by Vffa, of whom the succeeding Kings were tituled Vffines. But having suffered many Tempests of Fortune, it was in the year 870. utterly wasted and extinct by Hunger and Hubba the Danes, who overthrew the virtuous King Edmund about Thetford, and after martyred him at S. Edmundsbury. Yet they did not long enjoy it: for King Edward shortly recovered it from them, and annexed it to his other Kingdoms. The Danes notwithstanding inhabited abundantly in these parts, so that many of our Towns were founded by them, and a great part of our people and Gentry are risen out of their blood. (4) This Kingdom of East-Angles was after allotted to an Earldom of that name by William the Conqueror, who made Radulph a Britain, marrying his kinswoman, Earl thereof; but gave the greatest parts of this County about Wimondham, Keninghall, Lenn, Buruham, Fulmerstone, etc. to W. de Albany, Pincernae, and W de Warranna Forrestario, who to strengthen themselves (according to the use of that time) with the homage and service of many tenants, divided large portions of the same amongst their friends and followers; so that most of the Manors and Lands in the parts aforesaid, were in those days either mediately or immediately holden of one of them. And as Norfolk and Suffolk were first united in a Kingdom, then in an Earldom, so they continued united in the Sheriffe-wicke till about the fifteenth year of Queen Elizabeth. (5) The Towns here are commonly well built, and populous; three of them being of that worth and quality, as no one Shire of England hath the like, Norwich, Lenn, and Yarmouth: to which for ancient reputation (as having been a seat of the Kings of East-Angles) I may add Thetford, known to Antonius, Ptolemie, and elder ages, by the name of Sitemagus, when the other three were yet in their infancy, and of no esteem: for I accept not the Relations of the Antiquity and State of Norwich in the time of the Britain and Saxons, though Alexander Nevil hath well graced them. Her very name abridgeth her Antiquity, as having no other in Histories but Norwich, which is mere Saxon or Danish, and signifieth the Northtowne or Castle. It seemeth to have risen out of the decay of her neighbour Vinta, now called Castor, and as M. Cambden noteth, not to have been of mar●● before the entry of the Danes, who in the year 1004. under Sweno their Captain, first sacked, and then burned it, even in her infancy▪ Yet in the days of Edward the Confessor it recovered 1320. Burgesset. But maintaining the cause of Earl Radulph aforesaid against the Conqueror, they were by famine and sword wasted to 560 at which time the Earl escaping by ship, his wife upon composition yielded the Castle, and followed 〈◊〉 William Rusu● time it was grown famous for Merchandise and concourse of people; so that Herbert then translating the Bishopric from Thetford thither, made each of them an ornament to other. In variety of times it felt much variety of Fortune: By fire in Anno 1508. By extreme plagues, whereof one in An. 1348. was so outrageous, as 17104. are reported to have died thereof between the Calends of january and of july. By misery of war, as sacked and spoilt by the Earl of Flaunders and Hugh Big●d, Anno 1174. In yielding to Lewis the French, against their natural Lord King john, Anno 1216. By the disinherited Barons, An. 1266. By tumult and insurrection between the Citizens and Churchmen: once about the year 1265. which if Henry the third had not come in person to appease, the City was in hazard to be ruined: The second time in Anno 1446. for which the Major was deposed, and their Liberties for a while selfed. In Edward the sixths' time, by Ketts rebellion, whose fury chiefly raged against this City. Since this it hath flourished with the blessings of Peace, Plenty, Wealth and Honour: so that Alxander Neu● doubteth not to prefer it above all the Cities of England, except London. It is situate upon the River Hierus, in a 〈◊〉 valley, but on using ground, having on the East the Hills and Heath called Mussold for Most-would, as I take it. In the 17 year of King Stephen it was new founded, and made a Corporation▪ In Edward the firsts time, closed with a same Wall, ●auing on a part that the River defendeth. First governed by four Bailiffs; then by Henry the fourth in An 1403. erected into a majoralty and County; the limits whereof now extend to Eatonb●●ge▪ At this present it hath about thirty Parishes, but in ancient time had many more. (6) Lenn having been an ancient Borough under the Government of a Bailiff or Reue, called Praepositus, was by King john in the sixth year of his Reign made Liber Burgus, and (besides the gift of his memorable Cup, which to this day honoureth this Corporation) endowed with diverse fair Liberties. King Henry the third in the 17 year of his Reign (in recompense of their service against the outlawed Barons in the Isle of Ely) enlarged their Charter, and granted them further, to choose a Major Loco Prapositi: unto whom King Henry the Eight, in the sixteenth year of his Reign, added twelve Aldermen, a Recorder, and other Officers, and the bearing of a sword before the Major. But the Town coming after to the same King, he in the twentie-ninth of his Reign, changed their name, from Mator & Burge●ses Lenn Episcopi, to Mator & Burge●ses Lenn Regis. (7) Yarmouth is the Key of the Coast, named and seated by the mouth of the River Year. Begun in the time of the V●nes, and by small accessions growing populous, made a Corporation under two Bailiffs by King Henry the third▪ and by his Charter, about the fifteenth year of his Reign, walled It▪ It is an ancient member of the Ci●que Ports, very well built and fortified, having only one Church (but fair and large) founded by Bishope Herbert, in William Rufus days. It maintaineth a Peer against the Sea, at the yearly charge of five hundred pound, or thereabout: yet hath it no possessions, as other Corporations, but like the children of Aeol●● and Thetis: Maria & 4. ventos, as an Inquisitor findeth An. 10. Hen 3. There is yearly in September the worthiest. Herring-fishing in Europe, which draweth great concourse of people, and maketh the Town much the richer all the year, but very unsavoury for the time. The Inhabitants are so courteous, as they have long held a custom to feast all persons of worth, repairing to their Town. (8) The Bishopric of Norwich had first hereseat at Dunwich in Suffolk, and was there begun by Foelix, who converted this County, and the East-Angles) to the Faith. Being brought out of Burgundy by Sigeber● (the first Christian King of the East-Angles) he landed at Babingley by Lenn, and there builded the first Church of these Countries, which in his memory, is at this day called by his Name. The second he built at Shar●●bourn then of wood, and therefore called Stock-Chappell. After Foelix and three of his Successors, this Bishopric was divided into two Sees: the one with eleven Bishops in succession, continuing at Dunwich; the other with twelve at Elmham in Norfolk. Then united again in the time of King Edwin, the entire See for twelve other Bishops remained at Elmham, and in the conquerors time was by his Chaplain Arfastus (being the thirteenth) translated to Thetford, from thence by Herbert (his next Successor save one) bought of W. Rusus for 1900. pounds, and brought to Norwich. This Herbert (surnamed Losinga a Norman) builded the Cathedral Church there, and endowed it with large possessions. Not far from thence he also builded another Church to S. Leonard, a third at Elmham, a fourth at Lenn, (S. Margaret's, a very fair one) and the fifth at Yarmouth before mentioned. By the Cathedral Church he builded a Palace for the Bishops, and founded the Priory there (now converted to Deane and Chapter) and another Priory at Thetford. Since his time the Bishops See hath immoveably remained at Norwich, but the ancient Possession are severed from it, and in lieu thereof the Abbey and Lands of S Benedict of Holme annexed to it. The Commodities of this County I have contained in these four Verses. Ingenio & populi cultu Norfolcia clari est; Hinc fluvijs, illine Insula clausa mari; Qua ratis, & vellus, frumenta, cuniculus, agnus. Lac scatet, & pisceses, pabula, mella, crocus. CAMBRIDGE-SHIRE. CHAPTER XVIII. CAMBRIDGE-SHIRE, lieth bounded upon the North with Lincolnshire and Norfolk; upon the East with Norfolk and Suffolk; upon the South with Hartford-shire and Essex; and upon the West with Bedford and Huntingdon shires. (2) This Province is not large, nor for air greatly to be liked, having the Fens so spread upon her North, that they infect the air far into the rest: From whose furthest point unto Royston in the South, are thirtiefive miles; but in the broadest is not fully twenty: the whole in Circumference, traced by the compass of her many indents, one hundred twenty and eight miles. (3) The Soil doth differ both in air and commodities; the Fenny surcharged with waters: the South is Champion, and yieldeth Corn in abundance, with Meadowing. Pastures upon both the sides of the River Came, which divides that part of the Shire in the midst, upon whose East-bancks the Muses have built their most sacred Seat, where with plenteous increase they have continued for these many hundred years. (4) For from ancient Grantcester, Camboritum by Antonine, now famous Cambridge, the other breast and Nurse-mother of all pious literature, have flowed full steames of the learned Sciences into all other parts of this Land, and elsewhere: ancient indeed, if their Story be rightly writ, that will have it built by Cantaber a Spaniard, three hundred seventy five years before the birth of our Saviour, who thither first brought and planted the Muses. This City Grantcester by the tyranny of time lost both her own beauty and her professed Athenian Students, so that in Bedaes' days, seven hundred years after the Word became flesh, it is described to lie a little desolate City, and as yet retaineth the name, without any memory of circuit by walls. Of this City, in the year of Christ jesus 141. as the Monk of Barton doth report, nine Scholars received their Baptism, and became Preachers of the Gospel among the Britain's; which (as he saith) happened in the Reign of Hadriant the Emperor. But when the 〈◊〉, Stors, His●nes and Saxons had laid all things waste, and with their savage swords cut out the leaves of all civil learning, this as the rest yielded to destruction, and so lay forlorn till the Saxons themselves became likewise civil; when S●gebert the first Christian King of the East-Angles, from the example of France, whither he had been banished, built Schooys in his Kingdom, and here at Grancester the chief, recalling thither the Professors of Arts and Sciences, as the Story recordeth, and Traditions do hold. But afterwards, as it seemeth, their increase being straightened, the Students complained (as the Prophets did to Elisha) that the place was too little for them to dwell in, therefore enlarging more Northward, seated themselves near unto the Bridge, whereupon the place began to be called Grantbridge, though others from the crooked River Came will have it named Cambridge. This place (though sacred and exempted from Mars, as Sylla once spoke; when he spared Athens,) the Danes in their destructions regarded no whit, wherein they often wintered after their spoils, and left the scatres of their savage sores ever behind them. And in the year 1010 when Suen in his fierceness bore down all before him, this place was no place for Scholars to be in: Wars loud Alarms ill consorting the Muse's mild Harmonies. Yet when the Normans had got the Garland on their heads, and these Danish storms turned into Sunshine days, Gislebert the Monk, with Odo, Terricus, and William, all three of the like Monastical Profession, in the Reign of King Henry the First, resorted unto this place, and in a public Barn read the Lectures of Grammar, Logic, and Rhetoric, and Gislebert Divinity upon the Sabbath and Festival days. From this little fountain (saith Peter Blessensis) grew a great River, which made all England fruitful, by the many Masters & Teachers proceeding out of Cambridge, as out of a holy Paradise of God. The first College therein endowed with Possessions was Peter-house, built by Hugh Balsham Bishop of Ely, in the year of Grace, 1284. whose godly example many others followed, so that at this day there are sixteen most stately Colleges and Hals, for building, beauty, endowments, and store of Students so replenished, that unless it be in her other Sister Oxford, the like are not found in all Europe. But at what time it was made an University, let Robert de Remyngton tell you for me. Do the Reign (saith he) of King Edward the first, Grantbridge, of a School, by the Court of Rome, was made an University, such as Oxford is. Lastly, the Meridian Line cutting the Zenith over this City, is distant from the furthest West-poynt, according to Mercator, 20 degrees, 50 scruples, and the Arch of the same Meridian, lying between the Aequator and Vertical point, is 52. degrees, 20 scruples. (5) Another City formerly in great fame is Elie, had in account for the repute and holiness of Votary Nuns there residing; built first by Audrey wife to one Tombret a Prince in this Province, who had this place as a part of her Dowry: she having departed from her second Husband Egbert King of Northumberland devoted herself to the service of God, and built here a Monastery, whereof she became the first Abbess. This in the Danish desolations was destroyed, but soon after re-edified by Ethelwold Bishop of Winchester, who stored it with Monks; unto whom King Edgar granted the jurisdiction over four Hundreds and a half, within these Fens and the East-Angles limits, which to this day are called The Liberties of S. Audrey, after whose example many Nobles so enriched it with large Renexewes, that as Malmesbury saith, the Abbot thereof laid up yearly in his own Coffers a thousand and four hundred pounds And of latter times the Monks thereof became so wealthy, that their old decayed Church they renewed with new and most stately buildings, which is now the Cathedral of the Diocese, and for beauty giveth place to no other in the Land Eight other foundations set apart from secular use in this Province, were at Thorney, Charteres, Denny, Elsey, Beach, Barnwell, Swasey, and Shengey, all which in the days of King Henry the eight came to the period of their surpassing wealth, and left their Lands to the dispose of his Will. (6) The general commodity of this Shire is Corn, which in the South, and Champion-part doth abundantly grow, as also Saffron, a very rich Spice. Some Woods there are, and Pasture both pleasant and profitable. The North part thereof is Fenny, but withal fruitful, whereof Henry of Huntingdon and William of Malinesbury thus do write: This Fenny Country is passing rich and plenteous, yea, and beautiful also to behold, whereiwis so great store of fish, that strangers do wonder, and waterfowl so cheap, that five men may therewith be satisfied with less than an halfpenny. (7) Places of ancient note in this Shire are these, the Erminstreet way, which upon the lower West parts of this County, thorough Roisen, runneth forthright unto Huntingdon. And from Reach a Market-town standing near to the River Came, a great Ditch and Trench is cast all along Newmarket-Heath, which for the wonder received thereat, is of the vulgar called The Deu●● Ditch, being in truth made for a defence against the Mercians by the East-Angles, whose Kingdom it inverged. The Gogmagog Hills near Cambridge retain the remembrance of the Danish Siaetion, where as yet on their tops is seen a Rampior, strengthened with a threefold Trench, whereof Goruase of Tillury tells us many a pretio Tale. HERTFORD-SHIRE. CHAPTER XIX. HERTFORD-SHIRE is bordered upon the North with Bedford and Cambridge-shires; upon the East, is altogether bounded by Essex; upon the South, is confined with Middlesex; and her West butteth upon Buckingham and Bedfordshires. (2) The form thereof is somewhat circular, with many indents to fetch in those Towns that are dispersedly straggled into her next Shire: whereof Roiston and Totteridge are the two extremes from North to South, betwixt whom in a straight drawn line are twenty seven English miles, and from Putnam Westward, to Cheston Nunnery in the East, are twenty eight; the whole circumference, about an hundred and thirty miles. (3) The air is temperate, sweet, and healthful, as seated in a Climate neither too hot, nor too cold: the soil is rich, plenteous, and delightful, yielding abundance of Corn, Cattle, Wood, and Grass, destitute of nothing that ministereth profit or pleasures for life, which are more augmented by the many Rivers that arise and run thorough this Shire, watering her own and others, till they empty themselves into the Sea. (4) Her ancient Inhabitants in the time of the Romans were the Cattieuchlanians, or Cassijans, and the Trinobantes, as their Writers declare, and in the Heptarchy was possessed by the Eastsaxons, excepting some small portion thereof, that the Mercian Kings enjoined. The Danes also in their over-running, sought to stay themselves in this Shire, and at Ware (than Wear) pitched down their rest and hope: for passing the Lea in their light Pinnaces and Shallops, raised therein a Fort, which maugre the English they kept, until that by the wise policy of King Elfred, that River was parted into to more running streams, whereby their Ships perished, and they intercepted both of provision and farther supply. (5) The Romans before them had made Verolaxium in this Shire their greatest for account, which in Nero's time was a municipial, as Nimus in his Catalogue of Cities doth call it, or as Tacitus, a Free Town; sacked by Boduo that ever eternised Queen of the Ictanians, when seventy thousand of the Romans and Consecrates by her revenging sword perished: the site and circuit whereof, in this Card we have set according to our view and measure there taken: whose magnificence for Port and stately Architecture, were found by her large and arched Vaults in the days of King Edgar, which were digged into and cast down by 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉, Abbots of S. Albans, for that they were the receptacles and lurking holes of 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉: the ruins of which, have raised the beauty of her surviving and fair S. Albans, where 〈◊〉 the great Mercian, in great devotion, built a most stately 〈◊〉 whose Church yet standing, retaineth the ashes of many Nobles, there slain in the quarrel of York and Lancaster; and a Font of solid brass brought out of Scotland by Sir Richara Lea, from the siege of L●eth (6) Many other Towns, both for Commerce, stately Buildings, and of ancient Record, this Shire affordeth, whereof Hertford, though the Shire-Towne, is not the richest; the passage thorough Ware hath left her ways so untrodden: to prevent which, in former times that River at Ware was chained up, and the Bailiff of Hertford had the custody of the Key: which howsoever they have lost, yet hath the Town gotten her Governor to be preferred from the name of a Bilisse, unto a Mayor, assisted with nine Burg●sses, a Recorder, and two Sergeants their Attendants. Herein a Castle, for situation pleasant, for Trench, Walls, and River, sufficiently fenced, was lately seen; but marked to destiny, as the Town to decay, hath found the hand of Fortune to overmatch her strength, and to ruinate the Priory, S. Nicholas, and S. Mary's Churches, besides a Cell of S. Albans Monks, that therein were seated. The like fate falls unto Hemsled, and her fair Castle, wherein Richard King of the Romans left his life Yet Lingely is graced both in the birth of Prince Edmund the fifth son to King Edward the third, and the burial of Richard the second that unfortunate King, who in the Cell of Friar's Preachers was there first buried, but afterwards removed and enshrined at Westminster. And in another Langley, near the East from thence, was borne that Pontifical Break-speare, Bishop of Rome, known by the name of Hadrian the fourth, (and famous for his stirrup-holding by Frederick the Emperor) whose breath was lastly stopped by a Fly that flew into his mouth. (7) The civil Battles that in this Shire have been sought, in the Map itself are inserted, and therefore here omitted, but the more ancient remembered unto us by Osister-hill near S. Alban, whom the judicious Combden supposeth to have been the Camp of Ostorius the second Lieutenant, and Subdue● of great Caractatus; as also seven small round Hills betwixt Sievennedge and Ku●●worth, in which are supposed some Roman Soldiers to lie buried. (8) Religious Houses built and suppressed, the chiefest for account in this Shire, were S. Alban, Ro●ston, Ware, Sopwell, Langeley, besides them at Hertford, whom Beda calls Horudford: which Cities graduation is distant and removed from the Equator 52. degrees 5. minutes of Latitude, and set from the first point of the West, according to Mercator, in the 20 degree 29. minutes of Longitude. The ●●●domes whereof, were enjoyed only by tho●● two honourable 〈◊〉 whose achievements we have also therein expressed. BEDFORD-SHIRE. CHAPTER XX. BEDFORD-SHIRE, seated in the Southeast of this Island, is a plain and champion Country, and lieth bounded upon the North with Huntington-shire; upon the East with Cambridge and Hartford-shires; upon the South with Hartford and Buckingham-shires; and upon the West with Buckingham and Northampton-shires. (2) The form thereof is somewhat oval, and not very large: for from Tilbroke in the North, unto Stu●●am in the South, are but twentie-foure English miles; and from Tourney in the West, unto Hatley Coking in the East, are not fully fourteen; the whole in Circumference, about seventy three miles. (3) The Air is temperate, and the Soil bounteous, especially the North, whose Borders the fruitful Ouse with her many windings watereth. The South is more lean, and with greater industry bringeth forth Barley, no better elsewhere. Generally, this County is Champion, though some places be sprinkled with Pasturage and Woods. (4) The ancient Inhabitants known to the Romans, that held in this Shire, were part of the Cattieuchlani, a stout and warre-strring people: and yet upon the report of Caesar's proceeding, sent him their subjection for peace. But when that conquering Nation had brought Britain into a Province under Rome, their Legions lay at Selenae and Magintum, which are now Sandy and Dunstable, places of memorable note in this Shire. After them the Saxons coveting for so fair a Seat, first dispossessed the Britain's, under the leading of Cuthwulfe the West-Saxon, about the year of Grace 572. who making it their own, was lastly enjoyed by the Mercians, as a part of their Kingdom. (5) In the year of Christ's Incarnation 1399 immediately before those Civil Wars, that rend in pieces the peace of this Land, between the Princes of Lancaster and York, the River Ouse near unto Harwood, stood suddenly still, and refrained to pass any farther; so that forward, men passed three miles together on foot in the very depth of her Channel; and backward, the waters swelled unto a great height: which was observed by the judicious, to foretell some unkind division that shortly should arise. (6) This County, among the common calamities of the Land, when it lay trampied under the fect of the Danes, sustained a part: and after that, in the time of King Stephen, when the Civil Wars thundered betwixt Maud the Empress and himself, the Shire-Towne was sore wasted, with great slaughter of men: So when the Barons forsook their allegiance to King john, the Town and Castle were rendered up unto their hands: and lastly, by King Henry the third, laid level even with the ground, some ruinous walls appearing towards the Ouse, but not a stone left upon the Mount where stood his foundation. (7) This Town by the Britaines was called Lettidur; and of us, Bedford: being the chiefest in the County, from whom it taketh the name, and is most fruitful, and pleasantly seated, having the Ouse running thorough the Town in the midst, and a fair Stone-bridge built over the same, whereon are two Gates to lock and impeach the passage, as occasion shall serve. At the first entrance standeth S. leonard's Hospital for Lazars: and further inwards, S. john's and S. Maries Churches: within the Town, S. Paul's, a most beautiful Church, S. Cuthberis, and S. Peter's: without the Town standeth the Friars, S. Joys, All-hallows, and Caudwell Abbey: not far whence sometimes stood a Chapel upon the Bank of Ouse, wherein (as Florilegus affirmeth) the body of Offa the great Mercian King was interred, but by the overswelling of that River, was borne down, and swallowed up; whose Tomb of Lead (as it were some fantastical thing) appeared often to them that seek it not, but to them that seek it (saith Rosse) it is invisible. This Town is governed yearly by a Mator, two Bailiffs, two Chamberlains, a Recorder, a town-clerk, and three Sergeants with Mases. (8) A tale of vain credit is reported of Dunstable, that it was built to bridle the outrageousness of a thief named Dun, by King Henry the first: but certain it is the place was formerly held by the Romans, whose Legions there lay, as appear by the Coins there usually found, which from Magmium are corruptly called Madning-money. (9) Castles in this Shire are Woodhill, Eaton, Temsford, and Amphill, an honour now appertaining to the Crown. And places of Religion, built by devout persons, but for Idolatrous Abuses again abolished, were at Bedford, Harwood, Helenflow, Newenham, Chicksand, Wardon, Woborne, and Dunstable. All these, with their like, felt the hand of Henry the Eight to lie so heavy upon them, that they were not able to sustain the weight, but were crushed to pieces, and fell to the ground. (10) The Graduation of this County, taken for the Shire-Towne, is placed from the Equator in the degree of 52. and 30. minutes for Latitude, and is removed from the first West point of Longitude, 20. degrees and 16. minutes. BUCKINGHAM-SHIRE. CHAPTER XXI. BUCKINGHAM, for the plenty of Beech-trees there growing, and those in the elder times of the Saxons called Eucken, may well be supposed from them to have the name, as afterwards the whole Shire had hers from this Town Buckingham. (2) In form it somewhat resembleth a Lion Rampant, whose head or North-point toucheth the Counties of Northampton and Bedford; whose back or East-part is backed by Bedford and Hertford-shires: his loins or South-borders rest upon Bark shire, and his breast the West side is butted upon wholly by Oxford-shire The length thereof from Waisbury in the South, to Bradfeild in her North, are thirty nine miles: the breadth at the broadest, from Ashridge in the East, to 〈◊〉- wood Forest in the West, are eighteen; the whole in Circumference one hundred thirty 〈◊〉 miles. (3) The air is passing good, temperate, and pleasant, yielding the body health, and the mind content. The soil is rich, fat, and fruitful, giving abundance of Corn, Grasse and Meat. It is chiefly divided into two parts by the Chiltren bills, which run thorough this Shire in the midst, and before tim● where so postered with Be●●h, that they were altogether unpassable, and became a receptacle and refuge for thieves, who daily endamaged the way-faring man; for which cause 〈◊〉 Abbot of S. A●ba●s caused them to be cut down: since when those parts are pa●●able, without any great encumbrances of trees; from whose tops, a large and most pleasing prospect is 〈◊〉▪ The Vale beneath is plain and champion, a clayie soil, stiff, and tough, but withal marvelous 〈◊〉 full naked of woods, but abounding in meadows, pastures, and tillage, and maintaining an infinite number of sheep, whose soft and fine fleeces are in great esteem with the Turks as far as, Asia. (4) The ancient Inhabitants that were seated in this Shire, were the Catlieuchlani, mentioned by Ptolemie, and them dispersed thorough the Tract of Bedford, Hertford, and this. These yielded themselves with the first to Caesar under the Romans subjection, whose overworn Empire ending in Britain, the Saxons by strong hand attained this Province, and made it a part of their Mercian Kingdom: yet was it first subdued unto them by Cherdike the West-Saxon, whose memory is in part continued in the Town Chersey, upon the West of this County, where in a sharp and bloody battle he was Victor over the Britain's. So also Cuthwulfe a West-Saxon at Alesbury in the year of Grace 592. over came the Britain's, and bore down all things before him: yet no sooner was their Heptarchy wained, and their Monarchy able to stand alone, but that the Danes, before their strength and growth was confirmed, waxed upon them; and they not able in so weak a hand to hold fast that weight of greatness they had so grasped, gave place to their conquerors, who did many harms in this Province: for in the year 914. the Danes furiously raged as far as Brenwood, where they destroyed the City Burgh, the ancient seat of the Romans, afterwards a royal house of King Edward the Confessor, which they utterly destroyed. (5) The Shire-Towne Buckingham, fruitfully seated upon the River Ouse, was fortified with a Rampire, and Sconces on both banks, by King Edward the elder, saith Marianus the Scotish Writer; where in the heart of the Town hath stood a strong Castle, mounted upon a high hill, which long since was brought to the period of her estate, now nothing remaining besides the signs, that there she had stood. The River circulates this Town on every side, that only on the North excepted, over which three fair stone-bridges lead, and into which the springs of a Well run, called S. Rumalds, a child-saint borne at Kings-Sutton, canonised, and in the Church of this Town enshrined, with many conceited miracles and cures: such was the hap of those times, to produce Saints of all ages and sexes. This Town is governed by a Bailiff and twelve principal Burgesses; and is in the degree removed from the first point of the West for Longitude 19 33. scruples, and the North-pole elenated in Latitude for the degree of 52. 18. scruples. (6) A Town of ancient note is Stony-Stratford, the Romans Lactorodum, being built upon that ancient Causey-way which is called Watling-street, where remain the marks thereof even unto this day At this place Edward the elder stopped the passage of the Danes, whiles he strengthened Torcester against them: and herein, King Edward the eldest since the Conquest, reared a beautiful Cross in memory of Eleanor his dead Queen, as he did in every place where her Corpse rested, from Herdby in Lincolne-shire, till it was received and buried at Westminster. (7) Places intended for God's true worship, built by devout persons, and sequestered from worldly employments, were at Launden, Luffeld, Bidlesden, Bradwell, Nothey, Ankerne, Missenden, Tekeford, Partrendune, Ashridge, and Alesburie: Ashridge in great repute for the blood (supposed out of Christ's sides) brought out of Germany by Henry the eldest son of Richard King of the Romans, and Earl of Cornwall, whereunto resorted great concourse of people for devotion, and adoration thereof. But when the Sunshine of the Gospel had pierced thorough such clouds of darkness, it was perceived apparently to be only honey clarified and coloured with Saffron, as was openly showed at Paul's Cross by the Bishop of Rochester, the twentie-fourth of February, and year of Christ 1538. And Alesbury for the holiness of S. Edith, was much frequented, who having this Town allotted for her Dowry, bade the world and her husband farewell, in taking upon her the veil of devotion, and in that fruitful age of Saints became greatly renowned, even as far as to the working of miracles. These all in the storms and rage of the time, suffered such shipwreck, that from those turmoiled Seas, their merchandise light in the right of such Lords as made them their own for wreacks indeed. OXFORD-SHIRE. CHAPTER XXI. OXFORD-SHIRE receiveth her name from that famous University and most beautiful City Oxford, and this of the Ford of Oxen, say our English-Saxons; though Leiland upon a ground of conjecture will have it Ousford, from the River Ouse (by the Latines called Isis) which giveth name likewise to the adjoining Island Ousney. The North point of this Shire is bordered upon by the Counties of Warwick and Northampton, the East with Buckingham, the West by Gloucestershire, and the South altogether is parted from Bark-shire by Thamisis, the Prince of British Rivers. (2) The blessings both of the sweet-breathing heavens, and the fruitful site of this Counties soil, are so happy and fortunate, that hardly can besaid whether exceeds. The air mild, temperate and delicate; the Land fertile, pleasant, and bounteous; in a word, both Heaven and Earth accorded to make the Inhabitants healthful and happy: The hills loaden with woods and Cattle, the valleys burdened with Corn and Pasturage, by reason of many fresh springing Rivers which sportingly there-thorow make their passage, whereof England, Char●●ll, 〈◊〉 and Isis' are chief: which two last making their Bed of Marriage 〈…〉 together in one channel and name. (3) The length of this Shire is from Cleydon in the Northwest, unto 〈◊〉 in her Southeast, near unto Thamisis, and amounteth almost to forty miles; the broadest part is in her western Borders, which extending from the said Cleydon in the North, unto Faring●●● 〈…〉 the River Isis in the South, are scarcely twenty six: and thence growing narrower 〈…〉 in Circumference about one hundred and thirty miles. (4) The ancient Inhabitants known to the Romans, were the Dobuni, part whereof possessed further Westernly into Gloucestershire, and nearer Eastward, betwixt the bowing of Thamises, were seated the Ancalites, who sent their submission unto julius Caesar, when report was made that the Trinobantes had put themselves under his protection; whereof followed the Britain's servitude under the proud yoke of the all-coveting Romans: yet afterwards this Counties people, being very puissant (as Tacitus terms them) and vnshaken by wars, withstood Ostorius Scapula the Roman Lieutenant, choosing rather to yield their lives in battle, than their persons to subjection. Of latter times it was possessed by the Mercian Saxons, as part of their Kingdom, though sometimes both the Westsaxons and the Northumbrians had the dispose of some part thereof: for Beda affirmeth that K. Oswold gave the then-flourishing City D●rchester unto Berinus the Westsaxons Apostle, to be his Episcopal See: whence the good Bishop coming to Oxford, and preaching before Wulpherus the Mercian King (in whose Court Athelwold the Southsaxons heathenish King was then present) he with all his Nobles were converted to the faith of Christ, and there baptised, whereby Berinus became the Apostle also of the South Saxons. (5) Otherplaces of memorable note either for actions therein happening, or for their own famous esteem, are the R●ll-rich-stones, standing near unto Enisham in the South of this Shire: a monument of huge stones, set round in compass, in manner of the Stonch●nge: of which, fabulous tradition hath reported forsooth, that they were metamorphised from men, but in truth were there erected upon some great victory obtained, either by, or against Rollo the Dane, who in the year 876. entered England, and in this Shire fought two Battles, one near unto Hoch-Norton, and a second at the Scier-Stane. (6) Rod●os likewise remaineth as a monument of Oxford's high-stiled Barle, but unfortunate Prince, Robert de Vere, who besides the Earldom, was created by King Richard the second, marquis of Dublin, and Duke of Ireland: but at that Bridge, discomfited in fight by the Nobles, and forced to swim the River, where began the downfall of his high mounted fortunes; forbeing driven forth of his Country, lastly died in exile and distressed estate. But more happy is this County in producing far more glorious Princes, as King Edward the Confessor, who in Islip was borne; Edward the victorious black Prince, in Woodstock; and in Oxford that warlike Coeur de Lion, King Richard the first, the son of King Henry the second, first took breath. (7) Which City is, and long hath been the glorious seat of the Muses, the British Athens, and learning's wellspring, from whose buing fountain the wholesome waters of all good literature streaming plenteously, have made fruitful all other parts of this Realm, and gained glory amongst all Nations abroad. Antiquity avoucheth, that this place was consecrated unto the sacred Sciences in the time of the old Britain's, and that from Greeke-lad, a Town in Wilt-shire, the Academy was translated unto Oxford, as unto a Plant-plot, both more pleasing and fruitful: whereto acordeth the ancient Burlaus and Necham, this latter also alleging Merlin. But when the beauty of the Land lay under the Saxons profane feet, it sustained a part of those common calamities, having little reserved to uphold its former glory, save only the famous monument of S. Frideswids' Virgin Conquest, no other School than left standing besides her Monastery: yet those great blasts, together with other Danish storms, being well blown over, King Elfred, that learned and religious Monarch, recalled the exiled Muses to their sacred place, and built there three goodly Colleges for the studies of Divinity, Philosophy, and other Arts of humanity, sending thither his own son Ethelward, and drew thither the young Nobles from all parts of his Kingdom. The first reader thereof was his supposed brother Neote, a man of great learning, by whose direction King Elfred was altogether guided in this his goodly foundation. At which time also, Asserius Menevensis, a writer of those times affairs, read the Grammar and Rhetoric, and affirmeth that long before them, G●●das, Melkin, Ninius, Kentigern, S. German, and others, spent there their lives in learned studies. From which time that it continued a Seed plot of learning till the Norman Conquest, ●ugul●us recordeth, who himself then lived. No marvel then if Matthew Paris calleth Oxford, the second School of Christendom, and the very chief Pillar of the Catholic Church And in the Council holden at Vienna, it was ordained, that in Paris, Oxford, Bononia, and Salamanca (the only Universities then in Europe) should be erected Schools for the Hebrew, Greek, Arabic, and Chaldean tongues, and that Oxford should be the general University for all England, Ireland, Scotland, and Wales: which point was likewise of such weight with the Council of Constance, that from this precedent of Oxford University, it was concluded, that the English Nation was not only to have precedence of Spain in all General Counsels, but was also to be held equal with France itself. By which high prerogatives this of ours hath always so flourished, that in the days of King Henry the 〈◊〉 thirty thousand Students were therein resident, as Archbishop Armachanus (who then lived) 〈◊〉 writ, and ●…ger (than also living) showeth, that for all the civil wars which hindered such 〈◊〉 of quiet study, yet 15000. Students were there remaining, whose names (saith he) were 〈◊〉 in matricula, in the matriculation book. About which time. john Baltol (the father of Baltol King of Scots) built a College, yet bearing his name, Anno 1269. and Walter Merton Bishop of Rochester, that which is now called Merton College; both of them beautified with buildings, and enriched with lands, and were the first endowed Colleges for learning in all Christendom. And at this present 〈◊〉 sixteen Colleges (besides another newly builded) with eight Hals, and many most 〈…〉 Church's, all adorned with most stately buildings, and enriched with great endowments, noble Libraries, and most learned Graduates of all professions, that unless it be her sister Cambridge, the other nursing breast of this Land, the like is not sound again in the world. This City is also honoured with an Episcopal See. As for the site thereof, it is removed from the Equator in the degree 52. and one minute, and from the West by Mercators' measure, 19 degrees, and ●0. minutes. (8) As this County is happy in the possession of so famous an Academy, so is it graced with most Princely Palaces appertaining to the English Crown, whereof Woodstock is the most ancient and magnificent, built to that glory by King Henry the first, and enlarged with a Labyrinth of many windings by King Henry the second, to hide from his jealous juno, his entirely beloved Concubine Rosamond Clifford, a damosel of surpassing beauty; where notwithstanding, followed by a clew of silk that fell from her lap, she was surprised and poisoned by Queen Eleanor his wife, and was first buried at Godstow Nunnery, in the midst of the Choir under a Hearse of silk, set about with lights, whom Hugh Bishop of Lincoln (thinking it an unfit object for Virgin's devotion) caused to be removed into the Church yard: but those chaste sisters liked so well the memory of that kind Lady, as that her bones they translated again into their Chapel. Bensington is another of his Majesty's Manors, built by William de la Pole Duke of Suffolk, but now in neglect through the annoyance arising from the waters or marshes adjoining Houses built for devotion, and for abuse suppressed and again put down, the chief in account were Enisham, Osney, Bru●rn, Godstow, Burchester, and Tame, besides S. Frideswides, and very many other stately Houses of Religion in the City. Gloucestershire. CHAPTER XXIII. Gloucestershire, lieth bordered upon the North with Worcester and Warwicke-shires, upon the East with Oxford and Wileshire; upon the South altogether with Sommersetshire: and upon the West with the River Wye and Hereford-shire. (2) The length thereof extended from Bristol upon the River avon in her South, unto Clifford upon another avon in her North, are about forty eight miles; and her broadest part from East to West, is from Lechlad unto Preston, containing twenty eight: the whole circumference about one hundred thirty eight miles. (3) The form whereof is somewhat long and narrow: the Air thereof is pleasant, sweet and delectable: and for fruitfulness of Soil hear Malmesbury and not me: The ground of this Shire throughout (saith he) yieldeth plenty of Corn, and bringeth forth abundance of fruits; the one through the natural goodness only of the ground, the other through the diligent manuring and tillage, in such wise, that it would provoke the laziest person to take pains Here you may see the Highways and Common Lanes clad with Apple trees and Pear trees, not engrafted by the industry of man's hand, but growing naturally of their own accord: the ground of itself is so inclined to bear fruits, and those both in taste and beauty far exceeding others, and will endure until a new supply come. There is not any Country in England so thick set with Vineyards as this Province is, so plentiful of increase, and so pleasant in taste. The very wines made thereof carry no unpleasant tartness, as being little inferior in sweet verdure to the French wines; the houses are innumerable, the Churches passing fair, and the Towns standing very thick. But that which addeth unto all good gifts (a special glory) is the River Severne, than which there is not any in all the Land, for Channel broader, for Stream swifter, or for Fish better stored. There is in it a daily rage and fury of waters, which I know not whether I may call a Gulf or Whirlepole of waves, raising up the sands from the bottom, winding and driving them upon heaps: sometimes overflowing her banks, ro●eth a great way upon the face of her bordering grounds, and again retireth as a Conqueror into the usual Channel. Unhappy is the Vessel which it taketh full upon the side: but the Watermens well ware thereof, when they see that Hydra coming, turn the Vessel upon it, and cut thorough the midst of it, whereby they check and avoid her violence and danger. (4) The ancient people that possessed this Province, were the DOBUNI, who spread themselves further into Oxford shire. But betwixt the Severne and Wye were seated part of SILURES, or Inhabitants of South Wales. And upon what ground I know not, let Lawyers dispute it, the Inhabitants in some part of this Shire enjoy a private custom to this day, that the Goods and Lands of Condemned Persons fall unto the Crown but only for a year and a day, and then return to the next heirs, contrary to the custom of all England besides▪ (5) The general Commodities of this Shire, are Corn, Iron, and Wools, all passing fine, besides Pasturage, Fruits, and Woods, which last are much lessened by making of Iron, the only bane of Oak, Elm, and Beech. (6) These, with all other provisions are traded thorough twenty five Market-towns in this County, whereof two are Cities of no small import: the first is Gloucester, from whom the Shire taketh name, seated upon Severne, near the midst of this Shire, by Antonine the Emperor called Glewm, built first by the Romans, and set as it were upon the neck of the Silureses, to yoke them, where their Le●ion called Colonia Glewm, lay. It hath been walled about (excepting that part that is defended by the River) the ruins whereof in many places appear; and some part yet standing, doth well witness their strength. This City was first won from the Britaines by Cheulin the first King of the Westsaxons, about the year of Christ, 570. and afterwards under the Mercians it flourished with great honour, where Of●●k King of Northumberland, by the sufferance of Ethelred of Mercia, founded a most stately Monastery of Nuns, whereof Kineburgh, Eadburgh, and Eve, Queens of the Mercians, were Prioresses successively each after other. (7) Edelsted a most renowned Lady, sister to King Edward the elder, in this City built a fair Church, wherein herself was interred; which being overthrown by the Danes, was afterwards rebuilt, and made the Cathedral of that See, dedicated unto the honour of S. Peter. In this Church the unfortunate Prince, King Edward the second, under a Monument of Alabaster doth lie; who being murdered at Barkley Castle, by the cruelty of French Isabel his wife, was there entombed And not far from him another Prince as unfortunate, namely, Robert Curthole, the eldest son of William the Conqueror, lieth in a painted wooden Tomb in the midst of the Choir; whose eyes were plucked out in Cardiff Castle, wherein he was kept prisoner twenty six years, with all contumelious indignities, until through extreme anguish he ended his life. And before any of these, in this City say our British Historians, the body of Lucius our first Christian King was interred: and before his days the Britain's Aruiragus. The graduation of this County I observe from this City, whence the Pole is elevated in the degree of Latitude 52 and 14. minutes, and in Longitude from the West, 18. and 5. minutes. (8) The other City is Pristow, fa●re, but not very ancient, built upon the River's avon and Froome, for trade of Merchandise a second London, and for beauty and account next unto York. This City standeth partly in this County, and partly in Somerset shire: but being a County of itself, will acknowledge subjection to neither. (9) A City more ancient hath been Ci●cester, by Ptolemy called Corinium; by Antonine, Duro●●●no●ium; by Giraldus, Passerum Vi●em, The Sparrows City, upon a flying report, that Gu●mund a Tyrant from Africks', besieging this City, tied fire unto the wings of Sparrows, who lighting in the Town upon light matter, set flame upon all. The circuit of whose wal● extended two miles about, wherein the Consular Port or ways of the Romans met and crossed each other. This City was won from the Britaines by Cheulin first King of the Westsaxons: afterwards it was possessed by the Mercians; and lastly, by the Danes under Gurmund (the former no doubt mistaken for him) wherein a rabble of them kept the space of a year, Anno 879. and never since inhabited, according to the circuit of her walls. (10) Places of memorable note are these: the Island Al●ey near unto Gloucester, wherein Edmund Iron-side the English, and Canutus the Dane, after many battles and blood, fought in single Combat hand to hand alone, until they compounded for the Kingdom's partition: Barkley Castle, where King Edward the second was thorough his fundament run into his bowels with a red burning Spit: Tewksbury the fatal period of King Henry the sixth his government, and the wound of the Lancastrian Cause; for in a Battle there fought in Anno 1471. Prince Edward, the only Son of King Henry, had his brains dashed out in a most shameful manner, the Queen his mother taken prisoner, and most of their favourites slain and beheaded. And at Alderley, a little Town standing eight miles from the Severne, upon the hills to this day are found Cockles, Periwinkles, and Oysters of solid stone, which whether they have been Shellfish and living creatures, or else the sports of Nature in her works, let the Natural Philosophers dispute of and judge. (11) The places of piety, set apart from other worldly Services, and dedicated to religious uses by the devotions of Princes, erected in this Shire, were Tewksbury, Deorhust, Gloucester, Minching, Barkley, Kinswood, Circester, Winchcomb, and Hales; which last was built with great cost by Richard Earl of Cornwall, King of the Romans, wherein himself, and his Duchess were interred. Their son Earl Edmund brought out of Germany the blood of Hales, supposed and said to be part of that which Christ shed upon his Cross. In this place with great confluence and devotions of Pilgrimage it was sought to and worshipped, till time proved it a mere counterfeit, when the glorious light of the Gospel revealed to eyesight such gross Idolatries, and the skirts of Superstition were turned up, to the show of her own shame. (12) Dukes and Earls that have borne the title of Gloucester, the first of every Family art by their Arms and Names expressed, ever fatal to her Dukes, though the greatest in blood and birth. The first was Thomas Woodstock, son to King Edward the third, who in Ca●●is was smothered in a Featherbed to death. The second was Humphrey brother to King Henry the fifth, by the fraudulent practice of the malignant Cardinal and Queen, made away at S. Edmundsbury. And the last was Richard, brother to King Edward the fourth, who by the just hand of God was cut off in Battle by King Henry the seaventh. HEREFORD-SHIRE. CHAPTER XXIIII. HEREFORD-SHIRE, (formerly accounted within the limits of Wales) lieth circulated upon the North with Worcester and Shrop-shire; upon the East with Maluerne Hils is parted from Gloucestershire; upon the South is kept in with Monmouth-shire; and upon the West in part with the Hatterall Hills is divided from Brecknok; and the rest confined with Radnorshire. (2) This Counties Climate is most healthful and temperate, and Soil so fertile for Corn and Cattle, that no place in England yieldeth more or better conditioned: sweet Rivers running as veins in the body, do make the Corn bearing grounds in some of her parts rightly to be termed the Gilded Vale: and for Waters, Wool, and Wheat, doth contend with Nilus, Colchos, and Egypt: such are Lemster, Irchenfeild, the banks of Wye, Luge, and from. (3) The ancient people known to the Romans, (whose power they well felt before they could subdue them) were the Silureses, placed by Ptolemie in this tract, and branched further into Radnor, Brecknok, Monmouth, and Glamorgan-shires, at this day by us called South-Wales, and by the Welsh Debeubarth. Their Original, as Tacitus conjectureth by their site, coloured countenances and curled hair, was out of Spain, and as both he and Pliny describes them, were fierce, valiant, and impatient of servitude, which well they showed under Cara●●cus their Captain, and nine years' scourge to the Roman assaulters, for whose only Conquest (and that made by treachery) the Victor in Rome triumphed with more than a usual Aspect; and with so equal an hand bore the Scoale of Resistance, that their own Writers evermore term it a dangerous War. For the Legion of Marius Valens they put to flight, and that with such havoc of the Associates, that Osterius the Lieutenant of Britain for very grief gave up his ghost: and Veranius under Nero assaulted them in vain. But when Vespasian was Emperor, and expert Soldiers employed in every Province, julius Frontinus subdued these Silureses unto the Romans, where continually some of their Legions afterward kept, till all was abandoned in Valentinians time. (4) The Saxons then made themselves Lords of this Land, and this Province a part of their Mercians Kingdom; yea, and Sutton the Court of great Offa their King. (5) But Hereford after, raised of the ruins of old Ariconium (now Kenchester, shaken in pieces by a violent Earth quake) grew to great fame, through a conceived sanctity by the burial of Ethelbert King of the East-Angles, slain at Sutton by Offa, at what time he came thither to have espoused to his Daughter; whose grave was first made at Marden, but afterwards canonised and removed to this City, when in honour of him was built the Cathedral Church by Milfrid, a petty King of that Country, which Gruffith Prince of South-Wales, and Algar an Englishman, rebelling against King Edward Confessor, consumed with fire; but by Bishop Remesiu was restored at now it is, at what time the Town was walled, and is so remaining in good repair, having six Gates for entrance, and fifteen Watchtowers for defence, extending in compass to fifteen hundred paces: and whence the North-Pole is observed to be raised 52. degrees, 17. minutes in Latitude, and is set from the first point of the West in Longitude, 17. degrees and 30. minutes; being yearly governed by a Mayor, chosen out of one and thirty Citizens, which are commonly called the Election, and he ever after is known for an Alderman, and clothed in Scarlet, whereof four of the eldest are justices of Peace, graced with a Sword-bearer, a Recorder, a Town-clerk, and four Sergeants with Mace. The greatest glory that this City received, was in King Athelstans' days; where (as Malmesbury doth report) he caused the Lords of Wales by way of Tribute, to pay yearly (besides Hawks and Hounds) twenty pound of Gold, and three hundred pound of Silver by weight; but how that was performed and continued I find not. (6) Things of rare note in this Shire are said to be, Bone well, a Spring not far from Richard's Castle, wherein are continually found little Fishes bones, but not a sin seen; and being wholly cleansed thereof, will notwithstanding have again the like, whether naturally produced, or in veins thither brought, no man knoweth. (7) But more admirable was the work of the Omnipotent, even in our own remembrances, and year of Christ jesus 1571. when the Mareley hill in the East of this Shire, roused itself out of a dead sleep, with a roaring noise removed from the placewhere it stood, and for three days together traveled from her first site, to the great amazement and fear of the beholders. It began to journey upon the seventh day of February, being Saturday, at six of the Clock at night, and by seven in the next morning had gone forty paces, carrying with it Sheep in their coats, hedge-rowes, and trees; whereof some were over-turned, and some that stood upon the plain, are firmly growing upon the hill, those that were East, were turned West; and those in the West 〈◊〉 set in the East: in which remove it overthrew K●●nasten Chapel, and turned two highways 〈◊〉 hundred yards from their usual paths formerly trod. The ground thus travelling, was abo●● 〈…〉 six Acres, which opening itself with Rocks and all, bore the earth before it for four hundred yard's space without any stay, leaving that which was Pasturage in place of the Tillage, and the Tillage overspread with Pasturage. Lastly, overwhelming her lower parts, mounted to an hill of twelve fathoms high, and there rested herself after three days travel: remaining his mark, that so laid hand upon this Rock, whose power hath poised the Hills in his Balance. (8) Religious Houses built by the devotions of Princes, and stored with Votaries and revenues for life, were in this Shire no less than thirteen, most sweetly seated in the places as followeth: at both the Hereford's, Barron, Ewayot, Clifford, Mone●●e, Acornebury, Lemster, Linbroke, Peterchurch, Kilpek, Dore, and Wiggemore: and suspected of hypocrisy, were called in question by King Henry the eight, and so strictly pursued, that some faults were apparent, whereby they were laid open to the general Deluge of the Time, whose stream bore down the walls of all those foundations, carrying away the Shrines of the dead, and defacing the Libraries of their ancient Records. WORCESTER-SHIRE. CHAPTER XXV. WORCESTER-SHIRE, is a County both rich and populour, and lieth circulated upon the North with Stafford 〈◊〉 upon 〈◊〉 East with Warwick and Oxford-shires; upon the South with Glacester shire, and the West by Maluerne Hils is parted from Hereford shire: the rest lieth confronted upon and in part divided from Sh●op-shire by the River Dowles. (2) The form thereof is triangle, but not of equal proportion; for from North to South are thirty two miles, from South to North-West twenty two, and from thence to her North-East point are twenty eight: the whole in Circumference is one hundred and twenty miles. (3) The Air in this Shire is of a favourable temperature, that gives an appetite for labour, diet, and rest: the Soil is fertile, and to me seemed inferior to notice other in this Land: for besides the abundance of Corn in every place spread, the Woods and Pasturage in her hills and plains, sweet Rivers that water the valleys below, and Cattle that cover the tops of higher ground; the Fields, Hedge-rowes, and Highways are beset with fruitful Peartrees, that yield great pleasure to sight, and commodious use: for with their juice they make a bastard kind of Wine, called Perry, which is both pleasant and good in taste. Many Salt Springs also this County affordeth; yea, and more than are commonly in use: such with the Germans, our ancient Predecessors, were esteemed most sacred and holy; so that (as Tacitus writeth) to such they wontedly resoted to supplicate their Gods with their devout prayers, as to places nearest the heavens, and therefore the sooner to be heard. And Poets in their feignings will have the Nymphs residence in shady green groves, and banks of sweet Springs: if so, then (as Helicon) this County affords both: such are the Forests of W●re and Feckenham, the great woods of Norton, and most fair Chase of Maluerne. And for waters, to witness what I say, is the Seuera● that cuts this Shire in the midst, Teme, Salwarp, and avon, all of them making fruitful their passage, and stored with Fish of most delicious taste. (4) The ancient people, possessors of this Shire, were the CORNAVII, inhabitants of Chesse-shire, Shrop-shire, Stafford, and Warwicke-shires, subdued by the Romans in Claudius Caesar's time, and after their departure, made a portion of the Mercian-Saxons Kingdom, and in Bedaes' time were called the Wicij, whereof it may be this Shire had the name: unless you will have it from the Salt-Pits, which in old English are named Wiches'; or from the famous Forest of Wyre. Howsoever, true it is that the County doth hold the name from her chief City Worcester. (5) Which is most pleasantly seated, passing well frequented, and very richly inhabited. This was the Branovium, mentioned by Antovine and Ptolemie, called by the Britain's, Caer-Wrangon; by Ninius, Caer-Cuorcon; and by the Latins, Vigornia. This City is seated upon the East bank of Severne, and from the same is walled in trianglewise about, extending in circuit one thousand six hundred and fifty paces: thorough which seven Gates enter, with five other Watch Towers for defence. It is thought the Romans built this to restrain the Bertaines that held 〈◊〉 beyond Seutr●e. This City by Hardy Canute in the year of Christ 1041. was sorely endangered, and set on fire, and the Citizens slain almost every one, for that they had killed his Collector of the Danish Tribute: yet it was presently repaired and peopled, with many Burgesses. and for fifteen Hides discharged itself to the Conqueror; as in his Doomesdayes is to be seen. But in the year 1113. a sudden fire happened, no man knew how, which burned the Castle and Cathedral Church. Likewise in the civil hroyles of King Stephen it was twice lighted into a flame, and the later laid it hopeless of recovery. Notwithstanding from those dead Ashes a new Phoenix arose, and her building raised in a more stately proportion, especially the Cathedral dedicated to S. Mary, first laid by Bishop Sexwolfe, in Anno 680 since when it hath been augmented almost to the River: In the midst of whose Choir, from his many turmoils, resteth the body of King john (the great with-stander of the Pope's proceedings) under a Monument of white Marble, in Princely Vestures, with his portraiture thereon according to life. And in the Southside of the same Choir lieth entombed Prince Arthur the eldest Son to King Henry the seaventh, his Monument is all black jette, without remembrance of him by Picture. This City is governed by two Bailiffs, two Aldermen, two Chamberlains, and two Constables, yearly elected out of twentie-foure Burgesses clothed in Scarlet, assisted with fortie-eight other Citizens, whom they call their Common Counsellors, clad in Purple, a Recorder, Town-clerk, and five Sergeants with Mace their Attendants Whose Geographichall Position is distant in Longitude from the West-Meridian 18. degrees, 10. scruples, having the North-Pole clevated in Latitude 52. degrees, and 32. scruples. (6) Places of further note for memorable antiquity, is Vpton, of great account in the Roman time, wheresome of their Legions kept, as witness their moneys there often found: the admirable Ditch upon Maluerne hills, drawn by Gilbert Clare, Earl of Gloucester, to divide his Lands from the Church of Worcester: the Saxons our Augustine's Oak, where he the English Apostle met with the British Bishops for the uniform celebration of Easter, from whence both parts departed with discontented minds, after many hot word and thwarting disputes. (7) Neither is it without admiration to me, that many places of this Shire lie far within the Precincts of other Provinces, as Aulston, Washbornes, Cuttesden, Paxford, Hanging Easton, Northwick●, Blockley, Burlode in Gloucestershire, and Goldcote, Aldermerston, Newbold, Treddenton, Armiscote, Blackwell, Darlings-cote, Shi●●●, Tyd●●ton, Olbarrow in Warwickshire; Dudley in Stafford-shire, and Rochfort in Hereford-shire, whither I must refer the Reader to find out these and the like in these Western Tracts. (8) Religious places erected in this Shire and devoted unto God by devout persons, were Bredon, Brodlege, Euesholme, Alnecester, Cochell, Fladbury, Maluerin, Pershore, Stodlege, Westwoods', and Worcester, plenteously provided for, and further secured by many privileges, both which they abused, as were the inditements of all such in the days of King Henry the eight, at whose Bar (himself being judge) they were found guilty, and received sentence of their ends and destruction. (9) Castles for defence built in this County, ruinated or in strength, were Hartlebury, Holt, Handley, Norton, Elmeley, and Worcester, besides his Majesty's Manor of Tichnell. WARWICKSHIRE. CHAPTER XXVI. WARWICKSHIRE, (so called from her Shire-Towne) is bounded upon the North with the County of Stafford; upon the East, with Watling-street-way is parted from Leicester shire, and the rest bordered upon by Northampton shire: the South part is butted by Oxford and Gloucester shires; and all her West with the County of Worcester. (2) The form thereof is not much unlike to a Scallop shell, growing from her Western head, and spreading her body wider, with many indents. The length thereof from Newton in the North, to L●ug Compton in the South, are miles thirty and three: and the broadest part of this Shire, is from H●well grange in the West, unto Hill morton in the East, distant asunder twenty five miles; the whole in Circumference, about one hundred thirty and five miles. (3) This Shire is sited near unto the heart of all England, and therefore participates with her in the best both for air and soil, wanting nothing for profit or pleasure for man. The South part from avon (that runneth thorough the midst of this County) is called the Feldon, as more champion and tractable to be stirred for Corn, which yearly yieldeth such plentiful harvest, that the husbandman sm●●th in beholding his pains, and the medowing pastures with their green mantles so embroidered with flowers, that from Edg-hill we may behold another Eden, as Lot did the Plain of jordon, before that Sodom fell. The Woodland lieth upon the North of avon, so called in regard of the plenty of Woods; which now are much thinner by the making of Iron, and the soil more churlish to yield to the Plough. (4) The ancient people that possessed this Province, are by Ptolemies description called the Corna●●ij, wherein after were seated the Mercian-Saxons, a part of whose Kingdom it was, and greatly sought after by the Westsaxons, whose King Cuthred, about the year of Christ jesus 749 in Battle slew Ethelbald at Seckington near unto Ta●worth. And not far from thence, King Edward the 4. as unfortunately sought against that stout make-King, Richard Nevil Earl of Warwick: near unto which, upon Blacklow-hill, Pierce Gaveston (that proud and new-raised Earl of Cornwall) was beheaded by Guy Earl of Warwick, assisted with the Earls of Lancaster and Hereford. And surely, by the testimony of john Rosse, and others, this County hath been better replenished with people; who maketh complaint of whole Towneships depopulations, altogether laid waste by a puissant Army of feeding sheep. (5) Notwithstanding, many fair Towns it hath, and some of them matchable to the most of England. The chief thereof is Coventree, a City both stately for building, and walled for defence: whose Citizens having highly offended their first Lord Leofricke, had their privileges infringed, and themselves oppressed with many havie Tributes; whose wife Lady Godina pitying their estates, unceslantly sued for their peace, and that with such importunacy, as hardly could be said whether was greater, his hatred, or her love: at last overcome with her continual intercessions, he granted her suir, upon an uncivil, and (as he thought) an unacceptable condition which was, that she should ride naked thorough the face of the City, and that openly at high noonday. This notwithstanding she thankfully accepted, and performed the act accordingly enjoined: for this Lady G●di●a stripping herself of all rich attire, let lose the treffes of her fair hair, which on every side so covered her nakedness, that no part of her body was uncivil to sight; whereby she redeemed the former freedoms, and remission of such heavy Tributes. Whose memory I wish may remain honourable in that City for ever, and her pity followed by such possessing Ladies. This City had grant to choose their yearly Magistrates, a Mayor and two Bailiffs, and to build about and embattle a wall, by King Edward the 3. whom Henry the 6. corporated a County of itself, and changed the names of their Bailiffs into Sheriffs: and the walls than were built as they now stand; thorough which open 13 gates for entrance, besides 18. other Towers thereon for defence. At Gofford-gate in the East hangeth the shield-bene of a wild Boar, far bigger than the greatest Oxe-bone: with whose snout the great pit called Swanswell was turned up, and was slain by the famous Guy, if we will believe report. Next unto this City, in account and commerce, is Warroicke, upon the Northwest bank of avon, built by Gurgunstus, the son of Bel●●e, as john Rosse, Monk of the place, saith, 375. years before the birth of Christ: by Ninius called Caer-Guaruic and Caer-Leon; and by learned Cambden judged to be PRAESIDIUM, the Roman Garrisons Town. The situation of this place is most pleasant, upon a hill rising from the River, over which is a strong and fair Stone bridge, and her sharp stream upon the Town side checked with a most sumptuous and stately Castle, the decays whereof, with great cost and curious buildings, the right worthy Knight Sir Foulke Grevil (in whose person shineth all true virtue and high nobility) hath repaired: whose merits to me ward I do acknowledge, in setting this hand free from the daily employments of a manual trade, and giving it full liberty thus to express the inclination of my mind, himself being the Procurer of my present estate. It seemeth this Town hath been walled about, as appeareth by the Trench in some places seen, and two very fair Gates, whose passages are hewed out of the Rock, as all other into the Town are: over whom two beautiful Chapels are built; that towards the East called S Peter, and that on the South-west, S James. Two fair Churches are therein seated, called S. mary's and S. Nicholas: but these in, and about the Town suppressed, S. Laurence, S. michael's, john Baptist, and john of jerusalem, beside the Nunnery in the North of the Town: whose North Pole is elevated in Latitude 52. degrees, 45 minutes, and is seated from the first point in the West of Longitude, 18 degrees and 45 minutes, being yearly governed by a Bailiff, twelve Brethren, twenty four Burgesses for Common Counsel, a Recorder, a Town-clerk, and one Sergeant their Attendant. (7) Places of most memorable note observed in this Shire, are Shugbury, where the precious stone Astroites is found: Of-Church, which was the Palace of great Offa the Mercian, and the buriall-place of S. Fremund his son: Chesterton, where the famous Fosse-way is seen. At Leamington, so far from the Sea, a Spring of Salt-water boileth up: and at Newenham Regis most sovereign water against the Stone, Green wounds, Ulcers, and Impostumes; and drunk with Salt looseth, but with Sugar bindeth the body; and turneth wood into stone as myself saw by many sticks that therein were fallen▪ some part of them Ash, and some part of them Stone: and guy-cliff, where the famous Earl Guy, after many painful exploits achieved, retired, and unknown, lead an Hermit's life, and was lastly there buried. (8) The chiefest Commodities in this County growing, are Corn, whereof the Red Horse Vale yieldeth most abundantly; Wools in great plenty; Woods and Iron, though the producer of the one will be the destruction of the other. Such honourable Families as have been dignified with the Earldom of this Shire-Townes name since the Normans Conquest, in the great Map itself are inserted, and by their several names expressed. NORTHAMPTONSHIRE. CHAPTER XXVII. NORTHAMPTONSHIRE, situated near unto the midst of England, lieth separtted upon the North from Lincolnshire by the River W●land; from Hammington-shire on the East is parted by the water Nene: her South is bounded with Buckingham and Oxford shires, and the West from Warwick with Watling-street-way, avon, and Weland, is divided from Leicester-shire. (2) The form of this County is large and narrow, broadest in the South-west; and thence shooting still lesser like unto a Horn, nor not much unlike to the form of Cornwall: and from the entrance of Cherwell into this Shire, unto the fall of Weland and Nene near unto Crowland, are by measure forty six miles; and the broadest part is from Ouse unto avon, which is not fully twenty miles: the whole in circumference one hundred and nineteen miles▪ (3) The air is good, temperate, and healthful: the soil is champion, rich, and fruitful, and so plenteously peopled, that from some Ascents, thirty Parish-Churches, and many more Windmills at one view may be seen: notwithstanding the simple and gentle sheep, of all creatures the most harmless, are now become so ravenous, that they begin to devour men, waste fields, and depopulate houses, if not whole Townships, as one merrily hath written. (4) The ancient people known to the Romans, and recorded by Ptolemie, were the Coritani, who possessed this Country, and were branched further thorough Leicester, Lincoln, Nottingham, Rutland, and Darbie-shires: these joining with the Irenians, with them were fettered with the chains of subjection, when for Claudius, Publius Ostrius Scapula entered his Lieutenantship in Britain, and in battle subdued all betwixt the Rivers Nene and Sabrina. But when the Romans were content to let go that which so long was desired, and had cost so much in the getting, the Saxons, a most warlike Nation put into these parts, and made it a portion of their Mercian Kingdom: but their government also grown out of date, the Normans seated themselves in these fair possessions, the branches of whole Stems are spread abroad in these parts, most fruitful and fair. (5) Commodities arising in this Shire, are chiefly gotten by tillage and plough, whereby corn so plentifully aboundeth, that in no other County is found more, or so much: the pastures and woods are filled with Cattle, and every where sheep loaden with their fleeces of wool. (6) The chief Town in this Shire is Northampton, whereof the County taketh name, which for circuit, beauty, and building, may be ranked with the most of the Cities of our Land. It is seated at the meeting and confluence of two Rivers, the greater whereof beareth to name Nen. This Town hath been built all of stone, as by many foundations remaining to this day is seen, and is walled about both strong and high, excepting the West, which is defended by a River parted into many streams. In the depredations of the Danes, Suen their King set this Town on fire, and afterwards it was sorely assulted by the disobedient Barons of King john, who named themselves, The Ar●●ie of God: But the loyalty of this Town stood nothing so sure unto King Henry his son, whence the Barons with displayed Banners sounded the Battle against their Sovereign. And yet after this a woeful Field of England's civil division was fought, whence Richard Nevil the stout Earl of Warwick, lead away prisoner that unfortunate man King Henry the sixth. Upon the West part of this Town standeth a large Castle, mounted upon an hill, whose aged countenance well showeth the beauty that she hath borne, and whose gaping chinks do daily threaten the downfall of her walls. To this upon the South the Town's wall adjoineth, and in a round circuit meeteth the River in the North, extending in compass two thousand one hundred and twenty pases: whose fire so pleased the Students of Cambridge, that thither they removed themselves upon the King's Warrant, in mind to have made it on an University: from whence the North-pole is elevated 52. degrees 36. scruples for Latitude, and in Longitude is removed from the West 19 degrees and 40 scruples; being yearly governed by a Mayor, two Bailiffs, twelve Magistrates, a Recorder, Town-clerk, a Common Counsel of forty eight Burgesses, with five Sergeants to execute business. (7) But the devotions of the Saxon-Kings made Peterborow more famous, formerly called Meddeswell, where Wolphere King of Mercia began a most stately Monastery to the honour of S. Peter, for satisfaction of the blood of his two sons, whom he had murdered in case of Christianity: but himself being for the like made away by his mother, his brother Penda continued the work, with the assistance of his brother Ethelred, and two sisters, Kineburga and Kineswith. This among the Danish Desobutions was cast down, yet was it again restored to greater beauty by Ethelwold Bishop of Winchester, with the help of King Edgar, and of Adulph his Chancellor, who upon prick of Conscience, that in bed with his wife had overlaid and smothered an Infant their only son, laid all his wealth upon the re-edifying of the place, and then became Abbot thereof himself. The Cathedral is most beautiful and magnifical, where, in the Choir lie interred two unfortunate Queens: on the North side Katherine Dewager of Spain, the repudiate wife of King Henry the eight, under an Hearse covered with black Say, having a white Cross in the midst: and on the Southside, Marry Queen of Scotland, whose Heart is spread over with black Velvet▪ The Cloister is large, and in the glass-windows very curiously portrayed the History of Wolphere the Founder, whose Royal Seat was at Wedon in the street, converted into a Monastery by S Werburg his holy daughter, and had been the Roman Station, by Antonine the Emperor called Bannavenna. So likewise Norman-chester was the ancient City Durobrivae, where their Soldiers kept, as by the moneys there daily found is most apparent. (8) Houses of Religion devoted to God's Service by the pious intents of their wellmeaning Founders were at Peterborow, Peakirk, Pipewell, Higham, Davintree, Sulby, Sausecombe, Sewardesug, Gare, S Dewy, S Michael, Luffeild, Catesby, Bruth, Barkley, Finishead, Fotheringhay, Wedon, and With●●p, besides them in Northampton, all which felt the storms of their own destruction, that raged against them in the Reign of King Henry the eight, who dispersed their Revenues to his own Coffers and Courtiers, and ulled the stones asunder or their seeming ever-sure Foundations; and in the time of young Edward, his son, whose mind was free from wronging the dead, the Tombs of his own Predecessors were not spared, when as Edward slain at Agincourt, and Richard at Wakefield, both of them Dukes of York, were after death assaulted with the weapons of destruction, that cast down their most fair Monuments in the Collegiate Church of Fotheringhay Castle. (9) Eight Princely Families have enjoyed the Title of the Earldom of Northampton, whereof the last, Henry Hawara, late Lord Privy Seal, a most honourble Patron to all learned proceedings (that I may acknowledge my dutiful and humble Service) hath most honourably assisted and set forward these my endeavours. HUNTINGTONSHIRE. CHAPTER XXVIII. HUNTINGTONSHIRE, (part of the levi under the Roman Monarch of Mertia in the Saxon Heptarchy) is severed with Nene, the North-bounder from Northamptonshire, to which it in part adjoineth West; from Bedford and Cambridge, by mearing Towns on the South; and from Ely, by a sense of water East, theworke of Nature, Benwicke Stream, or of Art, Canutus Delft: severed when Alfred, or before him, Offa shared the open circuit of their Empery into Principalities: that by residency of subordinate rule, Peace at home might be maintained; Fortaine offence (by apt assembly of the Inhabitants) resisted; Tax and Revenue of the Crown laid more evenly, and easierly levied; justice at men's doors with less charge and journey administered: all causes Civil having a right and speedy dispatch, in the County or Earls monthly Court, as Criminal in his Lieutenant the Sheriffs Turn, twice a year. In form of a Lozenge this Shire lieth, of positure temperate, and is 52. degrees, 4. scruples removed from the Aequator: the Hilly Soil to the Ploughman grateful: the Vale, contiguous to the Fens, best for Pasture, in which to no part of England it giveth place: Woods are not much wanted, the Rivers serving Coal, as the Moors Turf, for fuel. (2) This Content was (as the whole Continent) Forrest, until Canutus gave this Law of grace, Vt quisque tam in agris, quam in siluis excitet agitetque feras. Long were were the hands of Kings to pull (of old) the Subjects right into Regal pleasure, when Perambulation & Proclamation only might make any man's land Forrest. It is in the first Williams time a Phrase in Record not rare, Silua bu●●● Maner●● FORIS EST missa in Siluam Reg●s, from which word of power, Forrest may seem not unaptly to be derived. Cum videbat Henricus primus tres Bissas, fitting his Forest of Lyfield, he caused Husculphus his Ranger to keep them for his Game, as the Record doth testify. Thus did the second of his name, and the first Richard, in many parts: well therefore may the Exchequer-Booke call the Forest justice for Vert and Venison, not justum absolutè, but justum secundum Legem Forresta. That Foresta is defined, Tuta serarum s●ain, may seem to confine the Forester's office only to his Games care, which of ancient was as well over Mineral and Maritimal revenue. The office of Baldwme the great Forester of Flanders, Non agrum tantum spectabat, sed et Maris custodiam, saith Tullius, out of the old Charters of the French Kings. And see how just this squares to our Legal practice, for of Assarts, Purprestures, E●●prousment, Greenebugh, Herbage, Paunage, Fowls, Mills, Hony, Mine●, Quarries, and Wreacks at Sea, did the ●●inerall justice of the Forest here inquire. His Subjects of this Shire, Henry the 2. from servitude of his beasts, (whose Grandfather pro ●eris homines incarc●rauit, exhareditavit, mutilavit, 〈◊〉) did pretend by Charter to enfranchise, except Wabridge, Saple, Herthy, his own Demaines. But such was the success by encroachments, under his two succeeding Sons, that it drew on the oppressed people to importune a new the Sovereign's redress, which was by the great Charter of the third Henry fruitlessly effected His son in the 7. of his Reign, by a Perambulation, resuming back the fruit of his father's goodness, and so retaining, until in his 29. year by Petition, and purchase of his people (for they gave him a full Fifteen) he confirmed the former Charter, and by jury, View and Perambulation settled that Boundary of Forest, which contented the people, became the square of universal justice in this kind, and left in this Shire no more than the three former (his own grounds) Forrest. (3) This Shire hath four Centuriatae or Hundreds, and had of old time five, these so called, Quia prima institutione ex Hederum aliquet centenarijs compositae. These are subdivided into 79. Parishes, whereof five besides the Shire-Towne have Markets. These Parishes are measured by Hides, and Carucks, or Ploughlands, more or less, as either richness of Soil, or strength of the Lord strengthened or extended their limits, the Mass in whole containing of the first sort, 818. and of the other, 1136. These Hides the ancient and general measure of land (except in Kent) where the account was by Solms; or Lincolnshire, Vbinon sunt Hida, sed pro Hidis sunt Carucatae) were esteemed one hundred Acres, Non Normanico sed Anglico numero, una Hida pro sexies viginti Acris, ●uo produ●dec●es 〈◊〉, as in the Book of doomsday Caruca the Teame-land (not Ca●ucata for they be different) was in quantity of Acres, proportioned to the quality of Soil, but usually in this Shire reputed 60. The ●●rgata, or Yard-land, was a more or less part of the Hide, as the Acres in number varied, which I find in this County from 18. to 42 but for the most part 30 which was the half Ploughland And the Bovata or Oxgang (presumed in Law for Land in Granary) was suited in number of Acres to that Yard-land, of which it was a Moiety. Thus (except in the Fens, laid out per Leucas & quarentenas, miles and furlongs) stands all a measurement of Land in this Shire, which containeth in Knights Fees, 53 one half, 2 fifts, and a twentieth part. And in full estimation of rent and worth, rose in the time of the Conqueror, to 912. l. 4. s. and now payeth in Fifteen to the King, 371. l. 9 s. 7. 〈◊〉 and in tenth from the Clergy, 142. l. 6. s. q. (4) This County in discition of Titles, and administration of justice, did at the first, as the Germans our Ancestors, Iurape● Pagos & vicos reddere; Every Towneship by their Friburgi, or Tenmentall, as Triers, and the Baron, Thain, or Head-lord there, or the Decanus (a good Freholder) his Deputy, as judge, determining all civil causes; a representation of this remaineth still in our Court-Lecte. Above this, and held 12. times a year, was our Hundred or Wapentake. Quae super decem Decan●s & centum Friburgosiudicabat. Here the judges were the Aldermen, and Barons or Freeholders' of that Hundred; Aegelwinus Aldermannus tenuit placitum cum toto Hundredo, saith the Book of Ely. This Court had Cognoscence of Causes Ecclesiastical, as Temporal, therefore the judge or Alderman ought to be such as Dei leges & hominum iura studebat promovere: thus it went although the Conqueror commanded, Ne Aliquis de legibus Episcopalibus amplius in Hundredo placita teneret. The next and highest in this Shire, was Generale pla●●ū Comitatus, (the County or Sheriff's Count) to which were proper Placita Civilia ubi curia Deminorum probantur defecisse. Et sit placitum exurga● inter Vauafores duorum Dominorum tractetur in Comitatis. The judge was the Earl or Sheriff. The Tryers Barones Comitatus (freeholders) Quiliberat in eo terr● habent, not Civil only, but Probates of Wills, Questions of Tithes, Et debita verae Christianitatis jura, were heard, and first heard in this Court. Therefore Episcopus, Presbyter Ecclesia, & Quatuor de melioribus villae, were a diuncts to the Sheriff, Qui dei lege● & secul● negotia iusta consideratione difinirent. The Lay part of this liveth in a sort in the County, and Sheriff Turn; the Spiritual, about the reign of King Stephen, by Sovereign connivance, suffered for the most into the quarterly Synod of the Clergy, from whence in imitation of the Hundred Court, part was remitted to the Rural Deaneries, of which this Shire had four: And these again have been since swallowed up by a more frequent and superior jurisdiction, as some of our Civil Courts have been. There being now left in use for the most in this Shire for Causes Criminal, View of Frankpl●g, by grant or prescription, A Session of the Peace quarterly, and two Goal deliveries by the Sovereign's commission: and for Civil Causes, Courts of Manors, or of the County mon●●bly, and twice by the judges of Assize yearly The Office of Execution and custody of this County is the Sheralfey, of old inheritable, until Eustachius, who by force and favour of the Conqueror disseised Aluric and his heirs, forfeited it to the Crown; but since it hath passed by annual election, and hath united to it the County of Cambridge. (5) Having thus far spoken of the Shire in general, next in observation falleth the Shire-Towne Huntingdon, Hundandun, or the Hunter's Downs, North, seated upon a rising bank, over the rich meadowing river Owse, interpreted by some Authors, the Down of Hunters, to which their now common Seal (a Hunter) seemeth to allude. Great and populous was this in the foregoing age, the following having here buried of fifteen all but three, besides the Mother-Church S. Maries, in their own graves. At the reign of the Conqueror, it was ranged into four Ferlings or Wards, and in them 256. Burgenses or Households: It answered at all assessments for 50. Hides, the fourth part of Hurstingston Hundred in which it standeth. The annual rent was then 30. l of which, as of three Minters there kept, the King had two parts, the Earl the third; the power of Coinage then and before, not being so privatively in the King, but Borowes, Bishops, and Earls enjoyed it; on the one side stamping the face and stile of their Sovereign, in acknowledgement of subordinacie in that part of absolute power, and on the reverse their own name, to warrant their integrity in that infinite trust. (6) The Castle supposed by some the work of the Elder Edward, but seeming by the Book of doomsday, to be built by the Conqueror, is now known but by the ruins: It was the seat of Waltheof the great Saxon Earl, as of his succeeding heirs, until to end the question of right between Semplice and the King of Scots, Henry the second, laid it as you see; yet doth it remain the head of that honour, on which in other Shires many Knights Fees, and sixteen in this attended Here David Earl of this and Arguise, father of Isabel de Brus, founded the Hospital of S. john Baptist: And Lo●●tote here upon the Fee of Eustace the Viscount, built to the honour of the blessed Virgin, the Priory of Black Channons, valued at the Suppression, 232 l. 7. s. ob. Here at the North end was a house of Friars, and without the Town at Hinchingbrooke, a Cloister of Nuns, valued at 19 l. 9 s. 2. d. founded by the first William, in place of S. Pandonia, at Eltesley (by him suppressed) where near the end of the last Henry the Family of the Cromwel's begins their Seat. To this Shire-Towne, and benefit of the neighbour Countries, this River was navigable, until the power of Grey, a minion of the time, stopped that passage, and with it all redress either by Law or Parliament. By Charter of King john this Town hath a peculiar Coroner, profit by Toll and Custom, Recorder, Towne-Clerks, and two Bailiffs, (elected annually for government) as at Parliament two Burgesses, for advice and assent: and is Lord of itself in Fee-farm. The rest of the Hundred (wherein this Shire-Towne lieth) is the East part of the County, and of Hurst a Parish in the centre of it, named HURSTINGSTON, it was the Fee-farm of Ramsey Abbey, which on a point of fertile land, thrust out into the Fens, is therein situate, founded in the year 969 to God, our Lady, and S. benedict, by Farl Aylwin of the Royal blood, replenished with Monks from Westbury, by Oswold of York, and dedicated by D●nstan of Canterbury, Archbishops. By Abbot Reg●ald 1114 this Church was redified, by Magna●●ll Earl of Essex, not long after spoilt and by Henry the Third, first of all the Norman Princes, visited; when wasted with the 〈◊〉 wars, Regalis mensae Hospitalitas it abbreviata fuit, ut cum Abbatibus, Clericis & viris satis humilibus, hospitia quaesunt & prandia This Monastery (the shrine of two martyred Kings, Ethelbright and Ethelred, and of Saint 〈◊〉 the Persian Bishop) by humble piety at first, and pious charity, ascended such a pitch of worldly fortune, that it transformed their Founder (religious poverty) into their ruin, the attribute of Ra●●y the rich: for having made themselves Lords of 387. Hides of land (whereof 〈◊〉 in this Shire, so much as at an easy and under rent, was at the Suppression valued at 1983 l 15 s 3. d q. but by account of this time annually amounts to 7000 〈◊〉) they then began to affect popular command, and first enclosing that large circuit of land and water (for in it lieth the Mile-square Mere of Ramsey) as a peculiar signory to them, called the Balent or Bandy (bounded as the Shire, from E●y, and from Norman-Crosse with the Hundred Mere) by Sovereign Grant they enjoyed regal liberty. And then aspiring a step further, (to place in Parliament) made Broughton the head of their Baro●e, annexing to it in this Shire four Knights Fees. Thus in great glory it stood above 400. years, until Henry the Eight (amongst many other once bright Lamps of Learning and Religion in this State, though then obscured with those blemishes to wealth and ease concomitant) dissolved the house, although john Warboys then Abbot, and his 60 black Monks there maintained, were of the first that under their hands and conventual Seal protested, Quod Romanus Pontifex non habet maiorem aliquam jurisdictionem collatam sibi à Deo in Regno Angliae quam quivis alius externus Episcopus. A Cell to this rich Monastery was S. juces' Priory, built in that place of Slep, by Earl Adelmus, in the reign of the last Edmund, where the incorrupted body of S. Ius there once an Hermit, in a vision revealed, was by Ednothus taken up in his Robes Episcopal, and dedicated in the presence of Siward Earl of this County, and that Lady of renowned piety Ethelfleda, to the sacred memory of this Persian Bishop. Not far from this is Somersham, the gift of the Saxon Earl Brithnothus to the Church of Ely, before his own fatal expedition against the Danes: It is the head of those five Towns, of which the Soak is composed, and was an house to the See of Ely, well beautified by john Stanley their Bishop: but now by exchange is annexed to the Crown As these, so all the rest of this Hundred, was the Church's land, except Rippon Regis ancient Demaine. To which Saple (reserved Forest) adjoined, and the greater Stivecly, given by the last David Earl of Huntingdon, in Fee to his three Servants, Sentlice, Lakerutle, and Camoys. (8) NORMANS CROS the next Hundred, taketh name of a Cross above Stilton, the place where in former ages this Division mustered their people, whence Wapentake is derived: it had in it two religious houses, the eldest in the confines of Newton and Chesterton, near the River of avon, now Nene, founded (by the first Abbess Kineburga the Daughter of Penda, and Wife of Aelfred, King of Northumberland) West side a Trench, where Ermin-street-way crossed over the River by a Stone-bridge, whose ruins are now drowned, whence the Roman Town there sea●ed on both sides took the name Durobriva, as Traiectus Fluminis. But this Nunnery as raised, was also ruined by the Danes before the Conquest The other a Monastery of Cistertian black Monks, erected in honour of the Virgin Mary, by the second Simon Earl of Huntingdon, at Saltry judeth, the Land of a Lady of that name, wife of Earl Waltheof, daughter to Lambert Earl of Le●us, Niece to the Conqueror by his Sister, (her Mother) and Grandmother to this Founder Malcome, & William, Kings of Scots, Earls of Hamingdon, and Heirs of this Lady, strengthened by several Charters this pious work. Many chief of that Line, as the last Earl David, brother to King William, as Isabel, the wife of Robert d● Brus his Daughter heir; and most of the second branch, her Progeny making here their Burials. This house now level with the ground, maintained besides the Abbot, six Monks, and 22 Hinds, and was at the Suppression valued at 199. l. 11. c. 8. d The Founders and Patrons of this Monastery were the Lords of the next place Connington, first the seat of Turkillus Earl of the East-Angles, that invited Swain from Denmark to invade this Land: and who first squared out the unbounded marshes of this part, to the bordering Towns; his rule of proportion allowing to every Parish tantum de Ma●isco, quantum de sicca terra in breadth, in which none, sine licentia Domini might vel federe, vel salcare, but leaving most to inter-common by vicinage. This Dane exiled (when the rest of his Countrymen were by Edward Confessor) his land here was given to Earl 〈◊〉 by whose eldest heir Matilda married to David King of Scots, it went along in that Male line, until by death issueless of john Earl of Chester and Huntingdon, it fell in partage, to his sister I●abel de Brus, one of his heirs, from whose second Son Bernard, the Family of Cotton by lineal succession holdeth this Land, whereto Glarton the adjoining Parish is now by bounty of a second branch annexed. It was in this Shire the head of the honour of Belleine, on which 〈…〉, Sibson, 〈◊〉, and Ves●yes Manor in Chesterton attended: part of it is the fre●● Sea 〈◊〉, four mile 〈◊〉 breadth; over which when Emma, and her Children, the issue of Canuti●, sailed with some peril, her Husband in prevention of the like, from Bottsey in a straight course to the opposite firm land, lined with his Attendant Swords that passage, which since hath borne the name of Swords Delft, Kings or Canutus dyke. This signory was granted by the Conqueror to Eustace Earl of Bollein, Brother to Lambert Earl of Leins, and Father to Godfrey King of jerusalem; reverting it was given to Richard Earl of Cornwall, who granted out of it the two Mere, Vbbe Mere and Brich Mere, in Fee-farm to the Church of Ramsey Then after sundry changes it came to john of Gaunt, in exchange of the Earldom of Richmond, and so by descent fell again into the Crown Washingley, (not far off) from the ancient Lord of that name, by D●we, and Otter came to the Prices that now posseth it. In Chesterton from Wadsheafe by Dennyes there is to the Bevils (an ancient name in this Shire) a Manor descended. The rest from Aegidius de Merke (who gave there much to Royston Priory) passed by Amundevill to Gloucester, and so to Vesey by exchange. In Elton, the house rich in a beauteous Chapel, from Denham to Sapcotes, and Saultre Beaumes, from that surname (near the time of the Conquest) by Louth to Cornwallis descended; as Bottlebridge by Gimels', Drayton, Lovet, unto Shirley the now Lord. (9) LETTUNESTAN HVNDRED hath that name from Leighton, a Town in the midst of it, given by Earl Waltheof to the Church of Lincoln, which after shared it into two Prebendaries. One, the Parsonage impropriate, which still remaineth: the other (the Lordships) was resumed by Henry the eight, and now by the Heir of Darcy matched to the Lord Clifton, is become the seat of his Barony. This Hundred had in it no house of Religion, but Stonley a Priory of seven black Channons, of the order of S. Augustine, founded by the Bigrames, and at the Suppression valued at 62. l. 12. s 3. d ob. It stood within the reach of the great Manor Kimbolton (once an Hundred) which was the land of Earl Harold the Usurper: after by Grant it came with the Chase of Swinesheved to Fitz-Peter, from whom by Magnavil to Bohum (who in time of the 〈◊〉 Barons built there a Forcelet) and so to Stafford, by whose attainturre forsaited, it was given by Henry the eight to the Family of Wingfield that now possesseth it. At Bugden the See of Lincoln hath a seat, and was Lord of Spaldwick, and the Soak (given in compensation from the Church of Ely, when rend from them, it was by the first Henry made a Bishopric) until of late that Church gave up their interest in Spaldwicke to the Crown. Brampton was given by King john at Mirabel, to Earl David, and by Ada his youngest Daughter fell to Hastings Earl of Pembroke, and now is reverted to the King To the same Earl David by gift of the former King came Alcumesbury, and by the bounty of john Scot his son to Segrave, and so to the Lord Barkley the late possessor. To Quincy●arle ●arle of Winthester, was Keston by Henry the second given, by whose Heir general Ferrars, it came to the late Earl of Essex, and by exchange to the Crown. (10) TOULESLAND HVNDRED, taketh name likewise of a Town therein situate. In the out Angle of this, to the memory of S. Neotus a Monk of Glasterbury, but the supposed son to 〈◊〉 King of the Westsaxons (whose body from 〈◊〉 in Cornwall was transferred to Arnalphesbury, then of Arnulphus a holy man, now Eynesbury named) Earl Alrick and Ethelfleda turned the Palace of Earl Elfred into a Monastery of black Monks, which was razed by the Danes; but out of the ashes of this, Roisia (wife to Richard the son of Earl Gilbert) to God, our Lady de Becco, and S. Neot (as a Cell to the Abbey of Becco in Normandy) erected up of black Monks in the year 1113. the late Priory of S. Needs, suppressed by Henry the eight, and valued at 256. l. 15. d q. At Southo (the Land of Eustachius the Sheriff) Lovetote made the seat of that signory: on which in this Shire 13. Knight's Fees and a half depended: But from his line by gift of Verdon and Vesey drowned were these in the honour of Gloucester. Near to this at Cretingsbury dwelled Sir Adam de Creting, famous in Edward the thirds wars of France, whose Heir General Wanton doth now possess it. Staunton given by the first William to Gilbert de Gaunt, after the death issueless of De Rupes, escheated to the King, who gave it to joan his sister Queen of Scots. She on the Abbey of Tarent bestowed part, the rest reverting being given to Segrave descended to the Barons of Berkly, Godmanchester, or Gormonchester, (so named of that Dane to whom Aelfred at his conversion granted some regiment in these parts) was the old land of the Crown, now the Inhabitants in fee farm, by grant of King john, pro Sexies viginti libris pondere & numero. It is flat seated by as fruitful and flowery Meadows as any this Kingdom yieldeth, and is the most spacious of any one Parish in fertile tillage, oft having waited on their Sovereign Lords with ninescore Ploughs in a rural pomp: Some from the name Gunicester (which this often beareth in record,) suppose it the City where Machutus placed his Bishop's Chair. But for certain it was that Roman Town Durosipont, of the Bridges named, so many hundred years (until the light of our Britain● Story overshone it) forgotten. Thus as this City so the old Families have been here with time outworn, few only (of the many former) now remaining, whose Surnames before the reign of the last Henry were in this Shire of any eminency. But, Non indignemur mortalia Nomina solui, Cernimus exemplis Oppida posse mort. Let's not repine that Men and names do dye, Since stone-built Cities dead and ruin'd lie. RUTLAND-SHIRE. CHAPTER XXIX. RUTLAND-SHIRE, the least of any County in this Realm, is circulated upon the North with Lincolne-shire; upon the East and South, by the River Weland is parted from Northampton shire; and the West is altogether held in with Leicester-shire. (2) The form thereof is round, and no larger in compass then a light horseman can easily ride about in a day▪ upon which occasion some will have the Shire named of one Rutilio, that so road. But others from the redness of the Soil, will have it called Rutland, and so the old English-Saxons called it, for that Roet and Rutilio is in their tongue Red with us, and may very well give the name to this Province, seeing the earth doth stain the wool of her sheep into a reddish colour. Neither is it strange, that the stain of the soil gives names unto places, and that very many: for have we not in Chesse-shire the Red Rock, in Lancashire the Red Bank, and in Wales, Rutland Castle? To speak nothing of that famous Red Sea which shooteth into the Land betwixt Egypt and Arabia, which gave back her waters for the Israelites to pass on foot: all of them named from the colour of the Soil. (3) The longest part of this Shire is from Caldecot in the South upon the River Ey, 〈◊〉 to Thistleton a small Village seated in the North, not fully twelve miles: and from Timwell Eastward, to Wissenden in the West, her broadest extant, is hardly nine: the whole circumference about forty miles. (4) The air is good both for health and delight, subject to neither extremity of heat nor cold, nor is greatly troubled with foggy mists. The Soil is rich, and for Corn and tillage gives place unto none. Woods there are plenty, and many of them imparked, hills feeding herds of Neat, and flocks of sheep; Valleys besprinkled with many sweet Springs; Graine in abundance, and Pastures not wanting: in a word, all things ministered to the content of life, with a liberal heart and open hand Only this is objected, that the Circuit is not great. (5) The draught whereof, that I may acknowledge my duty and his right, I received at the hands of the right Honourable john Lord Harrington, Baron of Exton, done by himself in his younger years. near unto his house Burley, standeth Okham a fair Market-town, which Lordship the said Baron enjoyeth, with a Royalty somewhat extraordinary, which is this: If any Noble by birth come within the precinct of the same Lordship, he shall forfeit as an homage a shoe from the horse whereon he rideth, unless he redeem it at a price with money In witness whereof, there are many Horseshoes nailed upon the Shire-Hall door, some of large size and ancient fashion, others new, and of our present Nobility; whose names are thereupon stamped as followeth: Henry Hastings. Roger Rutland. Edward L. Russell, Earl of Bedford. Ralph L. Euwer of Parram. Henry L. Bertley. Henry L. Mordant. William L. Compton. Edward L. Dudley. Henry L. Windsor. George, Earl of Cumberland. Philip, Earl of Montgomery. L. Willoughby. P. L. Wharton. The Lord Shandois. Besides many others without names. That such homage was his due, the said Lord himself told me; and at that instant a suit depended in Law against the Eirle of Lincoln, who refused to forfeit the penalty, or to pay his sine. (6) Her ancient Inhabitants known to the Romones, and mentioned in Ptolemit, were the Coritan●, and by him branched thorough Leicester, Lincoln, Nottingham, Derbyshire and this; who with the Icemen were subdued by P. Ostorius under the yoke of Claudius the Roman Emperor: and at their departure, by conquest the Saxons made it a Prounce unto their Mercian Kingdom, whose fortunes likewise coming to a full period, the Normans annexed it under their Crown. (7) This County King Edward Confessor bequeathed by his Testament unto Queen Eadgith his wife, and after her decease unto his Monastery at Westminster, which William the Conqueror canceled and made void, bestowing the Lands upon others, the Tithes and the Church unto those Monks▪ That the Ferrer here first seated, besides the credit of Writers, the Horse-shoe whose badge than it was, doth witness; where in the Castle, and now the Shire-hall, right over the Seat of the judge, a Horse-shoe of iron curiously wrought, containing five foot and a half in length, and the breadth thereto proportionably is fixed. The Castle hath been strong, but now is decayed, the Church fair, and the Town spacious; whose degree of Longitude is 19 46. scruples, and the North poles elevation in Latitude 53. degrees and 7. minutes. (8) Let it not seem offensiue, that I (to fill up this little Shire,) have inserted the seat of a Town not sited in this County: for besides the conveniency of place, the circuit and beauty, but especially it being for a time an University, did move much; yea, and the first in this Island, if john Hardings' Author fail him not, that will have Bladud to bring from Athens certain Philosophers, whom here he seated, and made public profession of the Liberal Sciences, where (as he saith) a great number of Scholars studied the Arts, and so continued an University unto the coming of Augustine, at which time the Bishop of Rome interdicted it; for certain Heresies sprung up among the Britain's and Saxons. But most true it is, that in the Reign of King Edward the third, upon debate falling betwixt the Southern and Northern Students at Oxford, many Schoolmen withdrew themselves hither, and a while professed, and named a College, according to one in Oxford, Brasen-nose, which retaineth that name unto this day. This was so great a scar unto the other, that when they were recalled by Proclamation to Oxford, it was provided by Oath, that no Student in Oxford should publicly professeor read the Arts at Stanford, to the prejudice of Oxford. (9) As this Shire is the least in circuit, so is it with the fewest Market-towns replenished having only two. And from Societies that seed upon the labours of others, was this Land the freest: for besides Rihall, where Tibba the Falconers Goddess was worshipped for a Saint, when Superstition had well-near put Gods true honour out of place, I find very few; neither with more Castles strengthened then that at Okham, whose ruins show that a Castle hath been there. LEICESTER-SHIRE. CHAPTER XXX. LEICESTER-SHIRE, lying bordered upon the North with Nottinghamshire; upon the East, with Lincoln and Rutland; upon the South with Northampton shire; and upon the West with Watling-street-way is parted from Warwickshire; the rest being bounded with the confines of Derby, is a Country Champion, abounding in corn, but spary of woods, especially in the South and East parts, which are supplied with pit-coales plenteously gotten in the North of this Province, and with abundance of Cattle bred in the hills beyond the River Wreak, which is nothing so well inhabited as the rest. (2) The Air is gentle, mild, and temperate, and giveth appetite both to labour and rest: wholesome it is, and draweth man's life to a long age, and that much without sickness; at Carleton only some defect of pronunciation appeareth in their speech. (3) The soil thus consisting, the commodities are raised accordingly of Corn, Cattle, and Coals; and in the Rocks near Beaver are sometimes found the Astroites, the Starlike precious Stone. (4) The ancient people that inhabited this County, were the Coritani, who were spread further into other Shires, but after that the Romans had left the Land to itself, this with many more fell to be under the possession and government of the Mercians, and their Kings, from whom the English enjoyeth it at this day. (5) In Circularwise (almost) the compass of this Shire is drawn indifferently spacious, but not very thick of Enclosures, being from East to West in the broadest part not fully 30. miles, and from North to South but 24. the whole circumference about 196. miles; whose principal City is set, as the Centre, almost in the midst; from whom the Pole is elevated 53. degrees and 4 minutes in Latitude, and for Longitude, 19 degrees, 22. minutes. (6) From this Town the Shire hath the name, though the name of herself is diversely written, as Legecestria, Legora, Legeocester: by Ninius, Caer-Lerion; by Matthew of Westminister (if we do not mistake him) Wirall; and now lastly, Leicester: ancient enough if King Leir was her builder, eight hundred forty and four years before the birth of our Saviour, wherein he placed a Flamine to serve in the Temple of janus, by himself there erected, and where he was buried, if jeffery ap Arthur say true: but now certain it is, that Ethelred the Mercian Monarch made it an Episcopal See, in the year of Christ jesus 680. wherein Sexwulph of his election became the first Bishop: which shortly after was thence translated, and therewith the beauty of the Town began to decay; upon whose desolations that erectifying Lady Edelsted cast her eyes of compassion, and both re-edified the buildings, and compassed it about with a strong wall, where, in short time the City's trade so increased, that Matthew Paris in his lesser Story reporteth as followeth; Legecester (saith he) is a right wealthy City, and notably defended; and had the wall a sure foundation, were inferior to no City whatsoever. But this pride of prosperity long lasted not under the Normans, for it was sore oppressed with a world of calamities, when Robert Bossu the Crouchbacke Earl of that Province, rebelled against his Sovereign Lord King Henry the second: whereof hear the same Author Paris speak: Through the obstinate stubborness of Earl Robert (saith he) the noble City Leicester was besieged and thrown down by King Henry, and the wall that seemed indissoluble, was utterly razed, even to the ground. The pieces of whose fragments so fallen down, remained in his days like to hard rocks, through the strength of the Mortar cementing whole lumps together: and at the Kings command the City was set on fire and burnt, the Castle razed, and a heavit imposition laid upon the Citizens, who with great sums of money bought their own Banishments: but were so used in their departure, that for extreme fear many of them took Sanctuary, both at S. Edmund's and S. Albans. In repentance of these mischiefs, the Author thereof, Earl Robert, built the Monastery of S. Marry de Praetis, wherein himself became a Canon regular, and for fifteen years' continuance in sad laments served God in continual prayers. With the like devotion, Henry the first Duke of Lancaster built an Hospital for an hundred and ten poor people, with a Collegiate Church, a Dean, twelve Canons Prebendaries, as many Vicars, sufficiently provided for with revenues; wherein himself lieth buried: and it was the greatest ornament of that City, until the hand of King Henry the 8. lay over-heaive upon all the like foundations, and laid their aspired tops at his own feet. The fortunes of another Crouchbacke (King Richard the V●●●per) were no less remarkable in this City than the former Robert was, both of them in like degree of dishonourable course of life, though of disterent issue at their deaths, the one dying penitent and of devout esteem; the other leaving the stench of Tyranny to all following ages; who from this City setting forth in one day with great pomp, and in Battle array, to keep the Crown sure upon his own Helmet, in a sore 〈◊〉 field, yielded both it and his life, unto the head and hands of Henry of Richmond his Conqueror: and the next day was brought back, like a Hog, naked and 〈◊〉 and with contempt, without tears 〈◊〉 buried in the G●●y-Fryers of this City; whose suppression hath suppressed the plot place of his grave, and only the stone-chest wherein he was laid (a drinking trough now for horses in a common In●e) retaineth the memory of that great Monarch's Funeral: and so did a stone in the Church and Chapel of S. Mary's, enclose the corpse of the proud and pontifical Cardinal Wolsey, who had prepared for himself, as was said, a far more richer Monument. (7) Otherplaces worthy of remembrance in this Shire were these: In the West, where a high Cross was erected, in former times stood the fair City Cleycester, the Romans BENONNES, where their Legions lay, and where their two principal ways crossed each other, as the Inhabitants report; Loughborrow in the North-verge, was (as Marianus affirmeth) taken from the Britaines by Cuthwolfe their King, about the year of Christ 572. At Redmore, near Bosworth, Westward in this County, the Kingdom of England lay in hazard of one Battle, when King Richard's Field was fought, where the Land at once was freed from a Tyrant and a wicked Usurper. Neither may we pass Lutterworth, as the least in account, where the famous john Wickliff, England's Morningstar, dispersed the clouds of all Papistical darkness, by preaching the Gospel in that his charge; and stile of his pen, so piercing in power, that the man of Sin ever since hath been better known to the world. (8) Religious houses by Princes erected, and by them devoted to God and his service, the chiefest in this Shire were at Leicester, Grace-Dieu, Kerby Bellers, and at Burton a spital for Lazars, a disease then newly approached in this Land; for the erection whereof a common contribution was gathered thorough the Realm: the Patients in this place were not so much deformed in skin, as the other were in the defects for the soul; whose skirts being turned up to the sight of the world, their s●●mes were discovered, and those houses dissolved, that had long maintained such Idolatrous sins. LINCOLNSHIRE. CHAPTER XXXI. THe County of Lincoln, by the Normans called Nicolshire, is consigned on the North with Humber, on the East with the Germane Ocean, upon the South is parted from Cambridge and Northamptonshire by the River Nine; and on the West from Nottingham and York-shires by Dun and Trent. (2) The length of this Province extended from Barton upon Humber in the North, unto Stanford upon the River Nine in the South, are miles by our English measure fifty five, and the breadth thereof from Newton in the West, stretched unto Wintbory upon her East Sea containeth thirty five. The whole in circumference about one hundred and eighty miles. (3) The Air upon the East and South part is both thick and foggy, by reason of the Fens and unsolute grounds, but therewithal very moderate and pleasing. Her graduation being removed from the Aequator to the degree of 53. and the winds that are sent of her still working Seas, do disperse those vapours from all power of hurt. (4) The form of this County doth somewhat resemble the body of a Lute, whose East coasts lie bowe-like into the Germane Ocean, all along pestered with inlets of salt waters and sands, which are neither firm nor safe for travellers, as those in the South proved unto King john who matching Northward from Norfolk, against his disloyal Barons, upon those washes 〈…〉 and carriage by the sudden return of the Sea, and sofenesse of the sands. (5) Her Soil upon the West and North is abundantly 〈◊〉, pleasant, 〈…〉 pasturage, arable and meadowing grounds: the East and South fenny and 〈…〉 barren; but for fowl and fish exceeding any other in the Realm; wherein, at some times and season of the year, hath been taken in nets, in August, at one draught, above three thousand Mallards', and other Fowls of the like kind. (6) The Shires commodities consist chiefly in Corn, Cattle, Fish, Fowle, Flax and Alabaster; as also in a Plaster much esteemed of by the Romans for their works of Imagery; and whereof Pliny in his Natural History maketh mention. And the Astroites, a precious stone, Starlike, pointed with five beams or rays, anciently esteemed for their virtue in victories, upon the South-west of this County near Beaver are found: not far thence in our Father's memory, at Harlaxton was ploughed up a brazen vessel, wherein was enclosed a golden Helmet of an ancient fashion, set with precious stones, which was presented to Kathrens of Spain, Wife and Dowager to King Henry the eight▪ (7) This Shire triumpheth in the births of Beauclerke, King Henry the first, whom Selby brought forth, and of King Henry the fourth, at Bullingbrooke borne: but may as justly lament for the death of King john, herein poisoned by S●non a Monk of Swynsted Abbey; and of Queen Eleanor, wife to King Edward the first, the mirror of wedlock, and love to the Commons, who at Hardby, near Bullingbrooke, his birth place, ended her life. (8) Trade and commerce for provision of life is vented thorough thirty one Market-towns in this Shire, whereof Lincoln the Counties namer is chief, by Ptolemie and Antonine called Lindum, by Beda Linde-collma, and by the Normans, Nichol. Very ancient it is, and hath been more magnifical, as by her many overturned ruins doth appear, and far more populous, as by Demesdayes' Book is seen, where it is recorded that this City contained a thousand and seven Mansions, and nine hundred Burgesses, with twelve Lage-men, having Sac and Soc. And in the Normans time, saith Malmesbury, it was one of the best peopled Cities of England, being a place for traffic of Merchandise for all commerce by Land or Sea. Herein King Edward the third ordained his Staple for the Mart of Wools, Leather, and Led; and no less than fifty Parish. Churches did beautify the same: but now containeth only fifteen besides the Cathedral. Some ruins yet remains both of Friaries and Nunneries, who lie now buried in their own ashes, and the City conquered not by war, but by time and very age: and yet hath she not escaped the calamity of sword, as in the time of the Saxons; whence Arthur enforced their Host: the like also did Edmund to the destroying Danes; and by the Normans it suffered some damage, where King Stephen was vanquished and taken prisoner; and again, by the third Henry, that assaulted and won it from his rebellious Barons. By fire likewise it was fore defaced, wherein not only the buildings were consumed, but withal many men and women in the violence thereof perished: as also by an Earthquake her foundation was much weakened and shaken, wherein the fair Cathedral Church, dedicated to the Virgin of Virgins, was rend in pieces. The government of this City is committed yearly to a Mayor, tow Sheriffs, twelve Aldermen in Scarlet, a Sword, a Hat of Estate, a Recorder, Sword-bearer, and four Sergeants with Maces: whose situation on a sleep hill standeth, for Longitude in the degree 20. 10. scruples, the Pole elevated for Latitude from the degree 53. and 50. scruples. (9) Much hath been the devotion of Princes in building religious houses in this County, as at Crowland, Lincoln, Markeby, Leyborne, Grenfeld, Aluingham, Newnersby, Grymmysby, Newsted, Elsham, Stay●feld, Syxhyll, Torkesey, Bryggerd, Thorneholme, Nuncotton, Fosse, Heyings, Axholme I'll, Goykewell, S. michael's near Stamford, Swyn●shead, Spalding, Kirkested, etc. (10) Commotions in this Shire were raised the eight and twentieth of King Henry the Eight, where twenty thousand making insurrection, violently swore certain Lords and Gentlemen to their Articles. But no sooner they heard of the King's power coming, but that they dispersed themselves, and sued for pardon. And again in the third year of King Edward the sixth, in case of Enclosures, Lincoln, rose in seditious manner, as did they of Cornwall, Devon-shire, Yorkshire, and Norfolk: but after some flaughters of their chiefest men, were reduced to former obedience. NOTTINGHAMSHIRE. CHAPTER XXXII. NOTTINGHAMSHIRE (from Nottingham her chiefest Town hath the name; and that, somewhat softened from the Saxons Snoddenzaham, for the many Dens or Caves wrought in her Rocks and under ground) lieth bordered upon the North & North west with Yorkshire; upon the East a good distance by Trent is parted froM, and with Lincolnshire altogether confined: the South with Leicester-shire; and the West by the River Erwash is separated from Derbyshire. (2) For form long and Ouall-wise, doubling in length twice her breadth, whose extremes are thus extended and distance observed: From Finingley North to Sleanford in the South, are thirty eight English miles; her West part from Teversall to Besthorp in the East, are little more than nineteen; whose circumference draweth much upon one hundred and ten miles. (3) The Air is good, wholesome and delectable: the Soil is rich, sandy and clayie, as by the names of that Counties divisions may appear: and surely for Corn and Grass so fruitful, that it secondeth any other in the Realm: and for Water, Woods, and Canell Coals abundantly stored. (4) Therein groweth a Stone softer than Alabaster, but being burnt maketh a plaster harder than that of Paris: wherewith they flower their upper rooms; for betwixt the joysts they lay only long Bulrushes, and thereon spread this Plaster, which being throughly dry becomes most solid and hard, so that it seemeth rather to be firm stone then mortar, and is trod upon without all danger. In the West near Worksop groweth plenty of Liquorice, very delicious and good. (5) More South in this Shire, at Stoke, in the Reign of King Henry the seaventh, a great battle was fought by john De-la-Pole Earl of Lincoln, which Richard the Usurper had declared his heir apparent; but Richard losing his life, and De-la Pole his hopes, in seeking here to set up a Lambert, fell down himself: and at Newarke after many troubles King john got his peace with the end of his life. (6) Trade and commerce for the Counties provision is frequented in eight Market-towns in this Shire, whereof Nottingham is both the greatest and best: a Town seated most pleasant and delicate upon a high hill, for buildings stately, and number of fair streets, surpassing and surmounting many other Cities, and for a spacious and most fair Marketplace, doth compare with the best Many strange Vaults hewed out of the Rocks, in this Town are seen; and those under the Castle of an especial note, one for the story of Christ's Passion engraven in the Walls, and cut by the hand of David the second King of Scots, whilst he was therein detained prisoner. Another wherein Lord Mortimer was surprised in the nonage of King Edward the Third, ever since beating the name of Mortimer's Hole; these have their stairs and several rooms made artifically even out of the Rocks: as also in that hill are dwelling houses, with winding stairs, windows, chimneys, and room above room, wrought all out of the solid Rock. The Castle is strong, and was kept by the Danes against Burthred, Ethelred, and Elfred, the Mercian, and West-Saxon Kings, who together laid their siege against it: and for the further strength of the Town, King Edward, surnamed the Elder, walled it about, whereof some part as yet remains, from the Castle to the West-gate, and thence the foundation may be perceived to the North; where in the midst of the way ranging with this bank, stands a gate of Stone, and the same tract passing along the North part may well be perceived: the rest to the River, and thence to the Castle are built upon, and thereby buried from sight: whose circuit, as I took it, extendeth two thousand one hundred and twenty pases. (7) In the Wars betwixt Stephen and Maud the Empress, by Robert Earl of Gloucester these Wells were east down, when also the Town itself suffered the calamity of fire: but recovered to her former estate, hath since increased in beauty and wealth, and at this day is governed by a Mayor and six Aldermen, clad in Scarlet, two Sheriffs, two Chamberlains, a Town-clerk, and six Sergeants with Maces, their Attenders: whose position hath the Pole elevated fifty three degrees. 25. minutes in Latitude, and hath the Meridian nine degrees and 25. minutes. This Town hath been honoured by these Prince's titles, and these Princes dignified with the Earldom of Nottingham, whose several Arms and Names are in the great Map expressed. Religious houses that have been erected and now suppressed in the compass of this County, chiefly were Newsted, Lenton, Shelford, Southwell, Thurgarton, Blithe, Welbeck and Radford; in Nottingham the White and Grey Friars, besides a little Chapel dedicated to Saint john. All which show the devotions of those former times: which their remembrance may move, if not condemn us, that have more knowledge, but far less piety. DERBYSHIRE. CHAPTER XXXIII. DERBYSHIRE, lieth enclosed upon her North parts with Yorkshire; upon the East with Nottinghamshire; upon the South with Leicester-shire; and upon the West is parted with the River's Dove and Goyt from Stafford and Chesse-shires. (2) It is in form somewhat triangle, though not of any equal distance, growing from her narrow South-point still wider, and in the North is at the broadest: for from Stretton near the head of Mese, to New-Chapell seated near the head of Derwent, the two extremes from North to South are thirty eight miles: but from the Shire-Oakes unto the meeting of Mersey and Goyt, the broadest part of all this Shire, is not fully twenty nine; the whole in circumference extendeth to an hundred and thirty miles. (3) The air is good and very healthful: the sile is rich, especially in her South and East parts: but in the North and West is hilly, with a black and mossy ground, both of them fast handed, to the Ploughers pains, though very liberal in her other gifts: whose natures thus dissenting, the River Derwent doth divide asunder, that taketh course thorough the heart or midst of this County. The ancient people that possessed these parts in the times of the Romans assaults, were the Coritani, whom Ptolemie disperseth thorough Northamptonshire, Leicester, Rutland, Lincoln, Nottingham, and this Shire, who were all of them subdued by P. Ostorius Scapula, Lieutenant in this Province for Claudius the Emperor. But Rome's Empire failing in Britain, by the intestine Wars among themselves, the Saxons (a more savage and fearful Nation) soon brought it under their subjection, and made this a Province unto their Mercians Kingdom, whom the Westsaxons first won and again lost to the Normans. (5) It is stored with many Commodities, and them of much worth; for besides Woods and Cattle, Sheep and Corn, every where overspreading the face of this County, the Millstone, Crystal, and Alabaster, the Mines of Pit-coale, Iron, and Led, are of great price: whereof the last is mentioned in Flinie, who writeth that in Britain, in the very crust of the ground, without any deep digging, is gotten so great store of Lead, that there is a Law expressly made of purpose, forbidding men to make more than to a certain stint. Whose stones are plenteously gotten in those Mountains, and melted into Sows, to no small profit of the Country. There is found also in certain veins of the earth, Subium which the Apothecarits call Antimonium, and the Al●thmists hold in great esteem. (6) Places for commerce, or memorable note, the first is Derby, the Shire-Towne, called by the Danes De●aby, seated upon the West bank of Derwent, where also a small Brook rising Westward, runneth thorough the Town under nine Bridges, before it meets with her far greater River Derwent, which presently it doth, after she hath passed Tenant Bridge in the Southeast of the Town. But a Bridge of more beauty, built all of Freestone, is passed over Derwent in the North-East of the Town, whereon standeth a fair stone chapel, and both of them bearing the names of S. Mary's: five other Churches are in this Town, the chiefest whereof is called A●hallowes, whose Steeple or Bell-Tower being both beautiful and high, was built only at the charges of young men and maids, as is witnessed by the inscription cut in the same upon every square of the Steeple. Among the miserable desolations of the Danes, this Town bore a part, but by Lady Ethelfleda was again repaired, and is at this day incorporated with the yearly gournment of two Bailiffs, elect out of twentie-foure brethren, besides as many Burgesses of Common Counsel, a Recorder, Town-clerk, and two Sergeants with Mace: whose Graduation is observed from the Equator to be 53. degrees 25. scruples, and from the first point in the West, 19 degrees 2. scruples. (7) Little-Chester (by the Romish Money there daily found) seemeth to have been ancient, and that a Colony of the Roman Soldiers there lay. Yet of far greater fame was Repandunum, now Repton, where Ethelbald the ninth King of the Mercians, and fifteenth Monarch of the Englishmen, slain at Seggeswald by the treason of his Subjects, was interred: and whence Burthred, the last King of that people, was expulsed with his Queen Ethelswith, by the rage of the Danes, after twenty two years reign. But with a more pleasing eye we may behold Melborne, the memorial of Englishmens great valour, where in that Castle was kept Prisoner john Duke of Bourbon, taken captive in the Battle of Agincourt, and therein detained the space of nineteen years. (8) Things of stranger note are the hot Water-springs, bursting forth of the ground at Buxton, where out of the Rock within the compass of eight yards, nine springs arise, eight of them warm, but the ninth very cold. These run from under a fair square building of free-stones, and about threescore paces off, receive another hot spring from a Well, enclosed with four flat stones, called Saint Annes; near unto which, another very cold spring bubled up. The report goeth among the by-dwellers, that great cures by these waters have been done: but daily experience showeth, that they are good for the stomach and sinews, and very pleasant to bathe the body in. Not far thence is Elden hole, whereof strange things have been told, and this is confidently affirmed, the waters that trickle from the top of that Cave (which indeed is very spacious, but of a low and narrow entrance) do congeal into stone, and hang as ickles in the roof. Some of them were showed at my being there, which like unto such as the frost congealeth, were hollow within, and grew Taper-wise towards their points, very white, and somewhat Crystall-like. And seven miles thence, upon a mounted hill, standeth a Castle, under which there is a hole or Cave in the ground of a marvelous capacity, which is commonly called The Devil's Arse in the Peake, whereof Gervase of Tilbury hath told many pretty tales, and others do make it one of the wonders of our Land. (9) As in other Counties the devotions of the religious have been made apparent in the erection of places for God's peculiar service; so in this have been founded eight of that nature, which were Dale, Detelege, Derby, Rep●on, Bechif, Grai●sley, Faverwell, and Pollewerke: whose peace and plenty stood secure from all danger, till the blustering winds arising in the Reign of King Henry the eight, blew off the pinnacles of their beauteous buildings, and shook asunder the revenues of those Foundations which never are like again to be laid. STAFFORD-SHIRE. CHAPTER XXXIIII. STAFFORD-SHIRE, whose situation is much about the middle of England, meeteth upon the North with Chesse-shire and Derby, and that in a Triangle point, where three stones are pitched for the bounds of these Shires; it is parted from Derby shire on the East with Dowe and with Trent; the South is confined with Warwick and Worcester-shires, and the West butteth against the County of Shrop-shire. The form thereof is somewhat Lozeng-like, that is, sharp at both ends, and broadest in the midst. The length extending from North to South, is by measure forty four miles; and the breadth from East to West, twenty seven miles; the whole in circumference one hundred and forty miles. (3) The air is good and very healthful, though oversharpe in her North and Moreland, where the snow lieth long, and the wind bloweth cold. (4) The Soil in that part is barren of Corn, because her hills and Moors are no friends unto Tillage: the middle is more level, but therewithal woody, as well witnesseth that great one, called the Cank. But the South is most plenteous in Corn and Pasturage. (5) Her ancient Inhabitants were the CORNAVII, whom Ptolemie placeth in the Tract that containeth Shrop-shire, Worcester-shire, Chesse-shire, and this: all which were possessed by the Mercian-Saxons when their Heptarchy flourished. And Tameworth in this Shire was then held their Kings Court. The Danes after them often aflayed herein to have seated, as witnesseth Ternall, then Th●●tenhall, by interpretation, The habitation of Pagans, ●●brued with their blood by King Edward the elder. But the Inhabitants of this Province Beda terms The midland Englishmen, because to his seeming it lay in the heart of the Land, which when the Normans had made Conquest of all, many of them set down their rest here, whose posterity at this day are fairly and further branched into other parts. (6) The Commodities of this County consist chiefly in Corn, Cattle, Alabaster, Woods, and Iron, (if the one prove not the destruction of the other) Pit-coale, Flesh and Fish, whereof the River Trent is said to swarm: and others arising and running thorough this Shire, do so batten the ground, that the Meadows even in the midst of Winter grow green; such are Dowe, Manifold, Churnot, Hunsye, Yenden, Tean, Elith, Trent. Tyne, and Sow; whereof Trent is not only the principal, but in esteem accounted the third of this Land. (7) Stafford the Snire-Towne, anciently Betheney, from Bertelin, a reputed holy man that therein lead an Hermit's life, was built by King Edward the elder, incorporated by King john, and upon the East and South parts was walled and trenched by the Barons of the place; the rest from East to North was secured by a large Pool of water, which now is become fair Meadow grounds. The tract and circuit of these wells extended to twelve hundred and forty pases, thorough which four Gates into the four winds have passage, the River Sow running on the South and West of the Town. King Edward the sixth did incorporate the Burgesses, and gave them a perpetual succession, whose government is under two Bailiffs yearly elected out of one and twenty Assistants, called the Common Counsel, a Recorder, whereof the Dukes of Buckingham have borne the Office, and as yet is kept a Court of Record, wherein they hold Plea without limitation of sum; a Town-clerk also, (from whose Pen I received these Instructions) and to attend them two Sergeants at Mace. This Town is sited in the degree of Latitude 53. 20. scruples, and of Longitude 18. and 40. scruples. (8) But Leichfield, more large, and of far greater same, is much her ancient, known unto Beda by the name of Licidfeld, which Rosse doth interpret to be The field of deadbodies, for the number of Saints under the rage of Dioclesia● there slain: upon which cause the City beareth for her Arms an Eschocheon of Landscape, with diverse Martyrs in diverse manner massacred. Here Oswin King of Northumberland overcoming the Pagan-Mercians, built a Church and made it the See of Duina the Bishop; whose successors grown rich, with golden reasons so overcame King Offa, and the Adrian the Pope, that an archiepiscopal Pale was granted Bishop Eadulph, to the great disgrace of Lambert Archbishop of Canterbury. In this Church were interred the bodies of Wulshere and Celred, both of them Kings of the Mercians. But when the minds of men were set altogether upon gorgeous building, this old foundation was new reared by Roger Clinton, Bishop of this See, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary and Saint Chad, and the Close inwalled by Bishop Langton. The government of this City is by two Bailiffs and one Sheriff, yearly chosen out of twentie-foure Burgesses, a Recorder, a Town-clerk, and two Sergeants their Attendants. (9) Houses of Religion erected in this Shire, were at Leichfield, Stafford, De la Cross, Cru●den, Trentham, Burton, Tamworth, and Woluer-hampt●n. These Votaries abusing their Founders true pieties, and heaping up riches with disdain of the laity, laid themselves open as marks to be shot at; whom the hand of the skilful soon hit and quite pierced, under the aim of King Henry the eight, who with such Revenues in most places relieved the poor and the Orphan, with Schools and maintenance for the training up of youth: a work no doubt more acceptable to God, and of more charitable use to the Land. SHROP-SHIRE. CHAPTER XXXV. SHROP-SHIRE, is both large incircuit, well peopled, and very fruitful for life. It lieth circulated upon the North with the County Palatine of Chester; upon the East altogether with Stafford-shire; upon the South with Worcester, Hereford, and Raduor-shires; and upon the West with Mountgomery and Denbigh. (2) The form thereof is almost ciruclar or round, whose length from Weo●erto● below ●odlane South, to Over near unto the River Trent in the North, is thirty four miles: the broadest part is from Tongue in the East, to Oswestre sited at the head of Morda in the West, twenty and five miles; the whole in circuit about, extending to one hundred thirty and four miles. (3) Wholesome is the Air, delectable and good, yielding the Spring and the Autmne Seed time and Harvest, in a temperate condition, and affordeth health to the Inhabitants in all seasons of the year. (4) The soil is rich, and standeth most upon a reddish Clay, abounding in Wheat and Barley, Pit-coales, Iron, and Woods; which two last continue not long in league together. It hath Rivers that make fruitful the Land, and in their waters contain great store of fresh-fish, whereof Severee is the chief, and second in the Realm, whose stream cutteth this County in the midst, and with many windings sporteth herself forward, leaving both pastures and meadows be●●●●ed with flowers and green colours, which every where she bestoweth upon such her attendants. (5) This River was once the bounds of the North-britaines', and divided their possession from the Land of the Saxons, until of latter times theirs began to decay, and the Welsh to increase, who enlarged their lists to the River Dee. So formerly had it separated the Ordovices from the Cornauji, those ancient Inhabitants mentioned by Ptolemie. The Ordovices under Caractachus purchased great honour, whilst he a Prince of the Silureses removed his wars thence among them, where a while he maintained the Britain's liberty with valour and courage, in despite of the Romans. His Fort is yet witness of his unfortunate fight, seated near Clune Castle, at the confluence of that River with Temd, where (in remembrance of him) the place is yet called Caer-Caradoc, a Fort of his, won by P. Ostorius Lieutenant of the Romans, about the year of grace 53. The Cornauji were feared upon the North of Scuerne, and branched into other Counties, of whom we have said. (6) But when the strength of the Romans was too weak to support their own Empire, and Britain emptied of her Soldiers to resist, the Saxons set foot in this most fair soil, and made it a part of their Mercian Kingdom: their line likewise issued to the last period, and the Normans beginning where these Saxons left, the Welshmen took advantage of all present occasions, and broke over Severne unto the River Dee; to recover which, the Normans first Kings often affayed, and Henry the second with such danger of life, that at the siege of Bridge-north he had been slain, had not Sir H●bert Syncler received the arrow aimed at him, in stepping betwixt that Shaft and his Sovereign, and therewith was shot thorough unto death. In the like danger stood Henry Prince of Scotland, who in the straight siege of Ludlow, begirt by King Stephen, had been plucked from his saddle with an iron hook from the wall, had not Stephen presently rescued him, Anno 1139. (7) This then being the Marches of England and Wales, was sore afflicted by bloody broils, which caused many of their Towns to be strongly walled, and thirty two Castles to be strongly built: lastly, into this County the most wise King Henry the seaventh sent his eldest son Prince Arthur, to be resident at Ludlow, where that fair Castle became a most famous Princes Court. And here King Henry the eight ordained the Counsel of the Marches, consisting of a Lord Precedent, as many Counsellors as the Prince shall please, a Secretary, an Attorney, a Solicitor, and four justices of the Counties in Wales, in whose Court were pleaded the causes depending and tearmely tried for the most part in presence of that honourable Precedent. (8) But the Shire-Towne Shrewesburie, for circuit, trade, and wealth, doth far exceed this, and is inferior to few of our Cities; her buildings fair, her streets many and large, her Citizens rich, her trade for the most part in the staple commodities of Cloth and Friezes; her walls strong, and of a large compass, extending to seventeen hundred pases about, besides another Bulwark ranging from the Castle, down unto, and in part along the side of Severne: thorough which there are three entrances into the Town, East & West over by two fair stone-bridges with Towers, Gates, and Bars, and the third into the North, no less strong than them, over which is mounted a large Castle, whose gaping chinks do doubtless threaten her fall. This Town is governed by two Bailiffs, yearly elected out of twentie-foure Burgesses, a Recorder, Town-clerk, and Chamberlain, with three Sergeants at Mace: the Pole being raised hence from the degrees of Latitude 53. 16. minutes, and from West in Longitude 17. degrees 27. minutes. (9) Yea, and ancienter Cities have been set in this Shire: such was Roxalter, or Wroxcester, lower upon Severne, that had been Vricomum the chiefest City of the Cornavij; Vsoconia, now Okenyate, near unto the Wrekin: and under Red-Castle the ruins of a City, whom the vulgar report to have been famous in Arthur's days: but the pieces of Romish Coins in these three do well assure us that therein their Legions lodged; as many other Trenches are signs of war and of blood. But as swords have been stirring in most parts of this Province, so Beads have been bid for the preservation of the whole, and places erected for the maintenance of Votaries, in whom at that time was imputed great holiness: in Shrewesbury many, at Cou●●ere, Stowe, Dudley, Bromefeld, Wigmore, Hamond, Lyleshill, Bildas, Bishops-castle, and Wenloke, (where in the Reign of Richard the second; was likewise a rich Mine of Copper.) But the same blasts that blew down the buds of such plants, scattered also the fruits from these fair trees, which never since bare the like, nor is likely any more to do. That only which is rare in this Province, is a Well at Pichford in a private man's yard, whereupon floateth a thick scum of liquid Bitumen, which being clear off to day, will gather the like again on the morrw: not much unlike to the Lake in the Land of jewry. The County Palatine of CHESTER. CHAPTER XXXVI. CHESSE-SHIRE; the County Palatine of Chester, is parted upon the North from Lanca-shire with the River Mercy; upon the East by Mercey, Goit, and the Dane, is separated from Derby and Stafford-shires; upon the South toucheth the Counties of Shrop-shire and Flint; and upon the West with Dee is parted from Denbigh shire. (2) The form of this County doth much resemble the right wing of an Eagle, spreading itself from Wirall, and as it were with her pinion, or first feather, toucheth York shire, betwixt which extremes, in following the windings of the Shires diuder from East to West, are 47. miles: and from North to South twentie-sixe miles. The whole circumference about one hundred forty two miles. (3) If the affection to my natural producer blind not the judgement of this my survey, for air and soil it equal the best, and far exceeds her neighbours the next Counties: for although the Climate be cold, and toucheth the degree of Latitude 54. yet the warmth from the Irish Seas melteth the Snow, and dissolveth the Ice sooner there then in those parts that are further off; and so wholesome for life, that the Inhabitants generally attain to many years. (4) The Soil is fat, fruitful, and rich, yielding abundantly both profit and pleasures for man. The Champion grounds make glad the hearts of their tilers: the Meadows embroidered with diverse sweet smelling flowers; and the Pasture makes the Kines udders to strut to the pail, from whom and wherein the best Cheese of all Europe is made. (5) The ancient Inhabitants were the CORNAVII, who with Warwickshire, Worcester-shire, Stafford-shire, and Shrop-shire, spread themselves further into this County, as in Ptolemie is placed; and the Cangi likewise if they be the Ceangi, whose remembrance was found upon the shore of this Shire, on the surface of certain pieces of Lead, in this manner inscribed; IMP. DOMIT. AVO. GER. DE CEANG. These Cangi were subdued by P. Ostorius Seapula, immediately before his great victory against Caractacus, where, in the mouth of Deva he built a Fortress at the back of the Ordovices, to restrain their power, which was great in those parts, in the reign of Vespasian the Emperor. But after the departure of the Romans, this Province became a portion of the Saxon Mercians Kingdom: notwithstanding (saith Ran Higden) the City itself was hold by the Britaines until all fell into the Monarchy of Egbert. Of the dispositions of the since Inhabitants hear Lucian the Monk (who lived presently after the Conquest) spoke; They are found (saith he) to differ from the rest of the English, partly better, and partly equal. In feasting they are friendly, at meat cheerful, in entertainment liberal, soon angry, and soon pacified, lavish in words, impatient of servitude, merciful to the afflicted, compassionate to the poor, kind to their kindred, spary of labour, void of disimulation, not greedy meating, and far from dangerous practices. And let me add thus much, which Lucian could not; namely, that this Shire hath never been stained with the blot of rebellion, but ever stood true to their King and his Crown: whose loyalty Richard the second so far found and esteemed, that he held his person most safe among them, and by authority of Parliament made the County to be a Principality, and styled himself Prince of Chester. King Henry the third gave it to his eldest son Prince Edward, against whom Lewlyn Prince of Wales gathered a mighty Band, and with them did the Conntie much harm, even unto the City's gates. With the like scarre-fires it had oft times been affrighted, which they lastly defenced with a Wall made of the Welshmen's heads, on the South side of Dee in Hanbridge. The Shire may well be said to be a Seedplot of Gentility, and the producer of many most ancient and worthy Families: neither hath any brought more men of valour into the Field, than Chesse-shire hath done, who by a general speech, are to this day called The Chief of men: and for Nature's endowments (besides their nobleness of minds) may compare with any other Nation in the world: their limbs strait and well-composed, their complexions fair, with a cheerful countenance; and the Women for grace, feature, and beauty, inferior unto none. (6) The Commodities of this Province (by the report of Ranulphus the Monk of Chester) are chiefly Corn, Cattle, Fish, Fowle, Salt, Mines, Metals, Meres, and Rivers, whereof the banks of Dee in her West, and the Vale Royal in her midst, for fruitfulness of pasturage equals any other in the Land, either in grain from the Cow. (7) These, with all other provision for life, are traded thorough thirteen Market-towns in this Shire, whereof Chester is the fairest, from whom the Shire hath the name. A City raised from the Fort of Ostorius, Lieutenant of Britain for Claudius the Emperor, whither the twentieth Legion (named Victrix) were sent by Galba to restrain the Britain's: but grown themselves out of order, julius Agricola was appointed their General by Vespafian, as appeareth by Monies then minted, and there found; and from them (no doubt) by the Britaines the place was called Caer Legion, by Ptolemie, Deunana; by Antonine, Dena; and now by us West-Chester: but Henry Bradshaw will have it built before Brute, by the Giant Leon Gaue●, a man beyond the Moon, and called by Marius the vanquisher of the Picts. Over Deva or Dee a fair stone-bridge leadeth, built upon eight Arches, at either end whereof is a Gate, from whence in a long Quadren-wise the walls do encompass the City, high and strongly built, with four fair Gates, opening into the four winds, besides three Posterns, and seven Watch-Towers, extending in compass one thousand nine hundred and forty paces. On the South of this City is mounted a strong and stately Castle, round in form, and the base Court likewise enclosed with a circular wall. In the North is the Minister, first built by Earl Leofrike to the honour of S. Werburga the Virgin, and after most sumptuously repaired by Hugh the first Earl of Chester of the Normans, now the Cathedral of the Bishops See. Therein lieth interred (as report doth relate) the body of Henry the fourth, Emperor of Almane, who leaving his Imperial Estate, lead lastly therein an Hermit's life. This City hath formerly been sore defaced; first by Egfrid King of Northumberland, where he slew twelve hundred Christian Monks, resorted thither from Bangor to pray. Again by the Danes it was sore defaced, when their destroying feet had trampled down the beauty of the Land. But was again rebuilt by Edelfleada the Mercian Lady, who in this County, and Forest of Delamer, built two fine Cities, nothing of them now remaining, besides the Chamber in the Forest. Chester in the days of King Edgar was in most flourishing estate, wherein he had the homage of eight other Kings, who rowed his Barge from S. john's to his Palace, himself holding the Helm, as their supreme. This City was made a County incorporate of itself by King Henry the seaventh, and is yearly governed by a Mator, with Sword and Mace borne before him in State, two Sheriffs, twentie-foure Aldermen, a Recorder, a Town-clerk, and a Sergeant of Peace, four Sergeants, and six Yeomen. It hath been accounted the Key into Ireland, and great pity it is that the Port should decay as it daily doth, the Sea being stopped to scour the River by a Causey that thwarteth Dee at her bridge. Within the walls of this City are eight Parish-Churches, S. john's the greater and lesser: in the Suburbs are the White Friars, Blackfriars, and Nunnery now suppressed, From which City the Pole is elevated unto the degree 53. 58. minutes of Latitude, and from the first point of the West in Longitude unto the 17. degree and 18. minutes. (8) The Earldom whereof was possessed from the Conqueror, till it fell lastly to the Crown, the last of whom (though not with the least hopes) is Prince Henry, who to the Titles of Prince of Wales, and Duke of Cornwall, hath by Succession and right of Inheritance, the Earldom of Chester annexed to his other most happy Styles: Upon whose person I pray that the Angels of Jacob's God may ever attend; to his great glory, and Great Britain's happiness. (9) If I should urge credit unto the report of certain Trees, floating in Bagmere, only against the deaths of the Heirs of the Breretons' thereby seated, and after to sink until the next like occasion: or enforce for truth the Prophecy which Leyland in a Poetical fury forespoke of Beeston Castle, highly mounted upon a steep hill: I should forget myself and wont opinion, that can hardly believe any such vain predictions, though they be told from the mouths of credit, as Bagmere Trees are, or learned Leyland for Beeston, who thus writeth: The day will come when it again shall mount his head aloft, If ● a Prophet may be heard from Seers that say so oft. With eight other Castles this Shire hath been strengthened, which were Ould-Castle, Shoclath, Shotwitch, Chester, Poulefourd, Dunham, Fr●desham, and Haulten: and by the Prayers (as then was taught) of eight religious houses therein seated, preserved; which by King Henry the eight were suppressed: namely, Stanlowe, I●●ree, Maxf●ld, Norton, Bunbery, Combermere, Rud-heath, and Vale-Royall, besides the White and Black Friars, and the Nunnery in Chester. LANCA-SHIRE. CHAPTER XXXVII. THE County Palatine of Lancaster (famous for the four Henry's, the fourth, fifth, sixth, and seaventh, Kings of England, derived from john of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster) is upon the South confined and parted by the River Merscy, from the County Palatine of Chester; the fair County of Derbyshire bordering upon the East; the large Country of Yorkshire, together with Westmoreland and Cumberland, being her kind neighbours upon the North, and the Sea called Ma●● Hebernicum embracing her upon the West. (2) The form thereof is long, for it is so enclosed between York shire on the East side, and the Irish Sea on the West, that where it boundeth upon Cheshire on the Southside, it is broader, and by little and little more Northward it goeth (confining upon Westmoreland) the more narrow it groweth It containeth in length from Brathey Northward, to Halwood southward, fifty seven miles; from Denton in the East, to F●rmby by Altmouth in the West, thirty one; and the whole circumference in compass, one hundred threescore and ten miles. (3) The Air is 〈…〉, not troubled with gross vapours or foggy mists, by reason whereof the 〈…〉 long and healthfully, and are not subject to strange and unknown diseases. (4) The Soil for the generality is not very fruitful, yet it produceth such numbers of Cattle, of such large proportion, and such goodly heads, and horns, as the whole Kingdom of Spain doth scarce the like▪ It is a Country replenished with all necessaries for the use of man, yielding without any great labour, the commodity of Corn, Flax, Grass, Coals, and such like. The Sea also adding her blessing to the Land, that the people of that Province want nothing that serves either for the sustenance of nature, or the safety of appetite▪ They are plentifully furnished with all sorts of Fish, Flesh, and Fowls. Their principal fuel is Coal and Turf, which they have in great abundance, the Gentlemen reserving their woods very carefully, as a beauty and principal ornament to their Manors and houses. And though it be far from London (the capital City of this Kingdom) yet doth it every year furnish her and many other parts of the Land besides, with many thousands of Cattle (bred in this Country) giving thereby and otherways a firm testimony to the world, of the blessed abundance that it hath pleased God to enrich this noble Dukedom withal. (5) This Counties ancient Inhabitants were the brigants, of whom there is more mention in the description of Yorkshire, who by Claudius the Emperor were brought under the Roman subjection, that so held and made it their Seat, secured by their Garrisons, as hath been gathered as well by many inscriptions found in walls and ancient monuments fixed in stones, as by certain Altars erected in favour of their Emperors. After the Romans, the Saxons brought it under their protection, and held it for a part of their Northumbrian Kingdom, till it was first made subjugated to the invasion of the Danes, and then conquered by the victorious Normans, whose posterities from thence are branched further into England. (6) Places of antiquity or memorable note are these: the Town of Manchester (so famous, as well for the Marketplace, Church, and College, as for the resort unto it for clothing) was called Mancunium by Antonine the Emperor, and was made a Fort and Station of the Romans. Riblechester (which taketh the name from Rhibell, a little River near Clithero) though it be a small Town, yet by tradition hath been called the richest Town in Christendom, and reported to have been the Seat of the Romans, which the many Monuments of their Antiquities, Statues, pieces of Coin, and other several inscription, digged up from time to time by the Inhabitants, may give us sufficient persuasion to believe. But the Shire-Towne is Lancaster, more pleasant in situation, then rich of Inhabitants, built on the South of the River Lon, and is the same Longovicum, where (as we find in the Notice Provinces) a company of the Longo●icarians under the Lieutenant General of Britain lay. The beauty of this Town is in the Church, Castle, and Bridge: her streets many, and stretched far in length. Unto this Town King Edward the third granted a Mayor and two Bailiffs, which to this day are elected out of twelve Brethren, assisted by twentie-foure Burgesses, by whom it is yearly governed, with the supply of two Chamberlains, a Recorder, Town-clerk, and two Sergeants at Mace. The elevation of who●● Pole is in the degree of Latitude 54 and 58. scruples, and her Longitude removed from the first West 〈◊〉 unto the degree 17 and 4●. scruples. (7) This Country in diverse places suffereth the force of many flowing Tides of the Sea, by which (after a sort) it doth violently rend asunder one part of the Shire from the other: as in Fournesse, where the 〈◊〉 displeased that the short should from thence shoot a main way into the West, hath not obstinately ceased from time to time to flash and mangle it, and with his fell eruptions and boisterous Tides to decoure it. Another thing there is, not unworthy to be recommended to memory, that in this Shire, not far from Fournesse Fell●s, the greatest standing water in all England (called Winander-Mere) lieth, stretched out for the space of ten miles, of wonderful depth, and all paved with stone in the bottom: and along the Seaside in many places may be seen heaps of sand, upon which the people power water, until it recover a 〈◊〉 humour, which they afterwards boil with Turfs, till it become white salt. (8) This Country, as it is thus on the one side freed by the natural resistance of the Sea from the force of Invasions, so is it strengthened on the other by many Castles and fortified places, that take away the opportunity of making Roads and Incursions in the Country. And as it was with the first that felt the fury of the Saxons cruelty, so was it the last and longest that was subdued under the Westsaxons Monarchy. (9) In this Province our noble Arthur (who died laden with many trophics of honour) is reported by Ninius to have put the Saxons to flight in a memorable battle near Duglasse, a little Brook not far from the Town of Wiggin. But the attempts of war, as they are several, so they are uncertain: for they made not Duke Wade happy in his success, but returned him an unfortunate unterpriser in the Battle which he gave to Arduiph King of Northumberland, at Billangho, in the year 798 So were the events uncertain in the Civil Wars of York and Lancaster: for by them was bred and brought forth that bloody division and fatal strife of the Noble Houses, that with variable success to both parties (for many years together) molested the peace and quiet of the Land, and defiled the earth with blood, in such violent manner, that it exceeded the horror of those Civil Wars in Rome, that were betwixt Mariu● and Scylla, Pompey and Caesar, Octavius and Antony; or that of the two renowned Houses Valois and Eurbon, that a long time troubled the State of France: for in the division of these two Princely Families there were thirteen Fields sought, and three Kings of England, one Prince of Wales, twelve Dukes, one Marquis, eighteen Earls, one Viscount, and three and twenty Barons, besides Knights and Gentlemen, lost their lives in the same. Yet at last, by the happy marriage of Henry the seaventh, King of England, next heir to the House of Lancaster, with Elizabeth daughter and heir to Edward the Fourth, of the House of York, the white and red Roses were conjoined, in the happy uniting of those two divided Families, from whence our thrice renowned Sovereign Lord King james, by fair sequence and succession, doth worthily enjoy the Diadem: by the benefit of whose happy government, this County Palatine of Lancaster is prosperous in her Name and Greatness. YORKSHIRE. CHAPTER XXXVIII. AS the courses and confluents of great Rivers are for the most part fresh in memory, though their heads and fountains lie commonly unknown: so the latter knowledge of great Regions, are not traduced to oblivion, though perhaps their first originals be obscure, by reason of Antiquity, and the many revolutions of times and ages▪ In the delineation therefore of this great Province of Yorkshire, I will not insist upon the narration of matters near unto us; but succinctly run over such as are more remote; yet neither so sparingly, as I may seem to diminish from the dignity of so worthy a Country; nor so prodigally, as to spend time in the superfluous praising of that which never any (as yet) dispraised. And although perhaps it may seem a labour unnecessary, to make relation of ancient remembrances, either of the Name or Nature of this Nation, especially looking into the difference of Time itself (which in every age bringeth forth divers effects) and the dispositions of men, that for the most part take less pleasure in them, then in divulging the occurrents of their own times: yet I hold it not unfit to begin there, from whence the first certain direction is given to proceed; for (even of these ancient things) there may be good use made, eitherby imitation, or way of comparison, as neither the repetition, nor the repetition thereof shall be accounted impertinent. (2) You shall therefore understand: That the County of York was in the Saxon tongue called Ebona-yeyne, and now commonly Yorkshire, far greater and more numerous in the Circuit of her miles, than any Shire of England. She is much bound to the singular love and motherly ca●● of Nature, in placing her under so temperate a clime, that in every measure she is 〈…〉. If one part of her be stony, and a sandy barren ground: another is fertile and richly adorned with Corne-fields. If you here find it naked, and destitute of Woods, you shall see it there shadowed with Forests full of trees, that have very thick 〈◊〉, sending forth many fruitful and profitable branches. If one place of it be Moorish, Miry, and unpleasant; another makes a free tender of delight, and presents itself to the eye, full of beauty and contentive variety. (3) The Bishopric of Durham fronts her on the North-side, and is separated by a continued course of the River Tees The german Sea lieth sore upon her Bast side, beating the shores with her boisterous waves and billows. The West part is bounded with Lancashire, and Westmoreland. The Southside hath Cheshire and Darbishire (friendly Neighbours unto her) with the which she is first enclosed: then with Nottingham and with Lincolne-shires: after divided with that famous Arm of the Sea Humber: Into which all the Rivers that water this Country, empty themselves, and pay their ordinary Tributes, as into the common receptacle and store-house of Neptune, for all the watery Pensions of this Province. (4) This whole Shire (being of itself so spacious) for the more easy and better ordering of her civil government, is divided into three parts: which according to three quarters of the world, are called The West-Riding, The Eastriding, and The Northriding. West-Riding is for a good space compassed with the River Ouse, with the bounds of Lancashire, and with the South limits of the Shire, and beareth towards the West and South. Eastriding bends itself to the Ocean, with the which, and with the River Derment she is enclosed, and looks into that part where the Sun rising, and showing forth his beams, makes the world both glad and glorious in his brightness Northriding extends itself Northward, 〈◊〉 in as it were, with the River Tees and Derwent, and a long race of the River Ouse The length of this Shire, extended from Ha●thill in the South, to the mouth of Tees in the North, are near unto seventy miles, the breadth from Flambroughhead to Horn-castle upon the River 〈◊〉, is fourscore miles; the whole Circumference is three hundred and eight miles. (5) The Soil of this County for the generality is reasonable fertile, and yields sufficiency of Corn and Cattle within itself. One part whereof is particularly made famous by a 〈◊〉 of Stone, out of which the stones newly hewn be very soft, but seasoned with wind and 〈◊〉 of themselves do naturally become exceeding hard and solid. Another, by a kind of 〈◊〉 whereof it consisteth, which being burnt, and conveyed into the other parts of the Country, which are hilly and some what cold, serve to manure and enrich their Corne-fields. (6) That the Romans flourishing in military prowess, made their several stations in this Country, is made manifest by their Monuments, by many Inscriptions fastened in the Walls of Churches, by many Columns engraven with Roman work● found lying in Churchyards, by many 〈◊〉 Altars digged up that were erected (as it should seem) to their Tutelar Gods (for they had local and peculiar Topicke Gods, whom they honoured as Keepers and Guardians of some particular places of the Country) as also by a kind of Bricks which they used: for the Romans in time of peace, to avoid and withstand idleness, (as an enemy to virtuous and valorous enterprises) still exercised their Legions and Cohorts in casting of ditches, making of Highways, building of Bridges, and making of Bricks, which having sithence been found, and from time to time digged out of the ground, prove the Antiquity of the place by the Roman Inscriptions upon them. (7) No less argument of the piety hereof, are the many Monasteries, Abbeys and Religious houses that have been placed in this Country; which whilst they retained their own state and magnificence, were great ornaments unto it: but since their dissolution, and that the teeth of Time (which devours all things) have eaten into them, they are become like dead carcases, leaving only some poor ruins and remains alive, as relics to posterity, to show of what beauty and magnitude they have been. Such was the Abbey of Whi●●y, founded by Lady Hilda, daughter of the grandchild unto King Edwine. Such was the Abbey built by Bolcon, which is now so razed and laid jevell with the earth, as that at this time it affords no appearance of the former dignity. Such was Kirkstall Abbey, of no small account in time past, founded in the year of Christ 1147. Such was the renowned Abbey called S. Mary's in York, built and endowed with rich livings by Alan the third Earl of little Britain in America; but since converted into the Prince's house, and is called The Manor. Such the wealthy Abbey of Fountains, built by T●urstin Arch bishop of York Such was the famous Monastery founded in the Primitive Church of the Eastsaxons, by Wilfrid Archbishop of York, and enlarged (being fallen down and decayed) by Odo Archbishop of Canterbury. Such was Drax, a religious house of Canons. Such that fair Abbey built by King William the Conqueror at Silby (where his Son Henry the first was borne) in memory of Saint German, who happily confuted that contagious Pelagian Heresy, which oftentimes grew to Serpentine head in Britain. These places for Religion erected, with many more within this Provincial Circuit, and consecrated unto holy purposes, show the antiquity, and how they have been sought unto by confluences of Pilgrims in their manner of devotions: The midst of which superstitious obscurities, are since cleared by the pure light of the Gospel revealed, and the skirts of Idolatry unfolded to her own shame and ignominy: And they made subject to the dissolution of Times, serving only as antique Monuments and remembrances to the memory of succeeding Ages. (8) Many places of this Province are famoused as well by Name, being naturally fortunate in their situation, as for some other accidental happiness befallen unto them. Hallifax, famous, as well for that johannes defacro Besco, Author of the Sphere, was borne there, and for the Law it hath against stealing, and for the greatness of the Parish, which reckoneth in it eleven Chapels, whereof two be Parish-Chappels, and in them to the number of twelve thousand people. In former times it was called Horton, and touching the alteration of the name, this pretty story is related of it: namely, That a Clerk (for so they call him) being far in love with a maid, and by no means either of long praises or large promises, able to gain like affection at her hands, when he saw his hopes frustrate, and that he was not like to have his purpose of her, turned his love into rage, and cut off the maid's head, which being afterwards hung upon an Ewe tree, common people counted it as an hallowed relic till it was rotten: And afterwards (such was the credulity of that time) it maintained the opinion of reverence and Religion still: for the people resorted thither on pilgrimage, and persuaded themselves, that the little veins that spread out between the Bark and Body of the Ewe tree like fine threads, were the very hairs of the maid's head. Hereupon it was called by this name Haligfax, or Halyfax, that is, Holy-Hayre. Pomfret is famous for the Site, as being seated in a place so pleasant, that it brings forth Liquorice and great plenty of Skiriworts, but it is infamous for the murder and bloodshed of Princes: The Castle whereof was built by Hildebert Lacie, a Norman, to whom William the Conqueror gave this Town, after Alrick the Saxon was thrust out of it. (9) But I will forbear to be prolix or tedious in the particular memoration of places in a Province so spacious, and only make a compendious relation of York, the second City of England, in Latin called Eboracum and Eburacum, by Ptolemy, Brigantium (the chief City of the Brigants) by Ninius, Caer Ebrauc, by the Britain's, Caer Effro●. The British History reports that it took the name of Ebrauc that founded it; but some others are of opinion, that Eburacum hath no other derivation then from the River Ouse running thorough it: It over-masters all the other places of this Country for fairness, and is a singular ornament & safeguard to all the North parts. A pleasant place, large, and full of magnificence, rich, populous, and not only strengthened with fortifications, but adorned with beautiful buildings, as well private as public. For the greater dignity thereof it was made an Episcopal See by Constantius, and a Metropolitan City by a Pall sent unto it from Homorius. Egbert Archbishop of York, who flourished about the year seven hundred forty, erected in it a most famous Library. Richard the third repaired the Castle thereof being ruinous, and King Henry the eight appointed a Counsel in the same, to decide and determine all the causes and Controversies of the North parts, according to equity and conscience: which Counsel consisteth of a Lord Precedent, certain Counsellors at the Prince's pleasure, a Secretary, and other Under-officers. The original of this City cannot be fetched out but from the romans, seeing the Britaines before the Romans came, had no other Towns than Woods fenced with Trenches and Rampires, as Caesar and Strabo do testify. And that it was a Colony of the Romans, appears both by the authority of Ptolemy and Antonine, and by many ancient Inscriptions that have been found there. In this City the Emperor Severus had his Palace, and here gave up his last breath; which ministers occasion to show the ancient custom of the Romans, in the military manner of their burials. His body was carried forth here by the Soldiers to the Funeral fire, and committed to the flames, honoured with the justs and Tournaments both of the Soldiers and of his own sons: His ashes bestowed in a little golden pot or vessel of the Prophyrat stone, were carried to Rome, and shrined there in the monument of the Antoni●s. In this City (as Spartian●●s maketh mention) was the Temple of the Goddess Bellona; to which Severus (being come thither purposing to offer sacrifice) was erroneously led by a rustical Augur. Here Fl Velerius Constantinus, surnamed Chlorus (an Emperor of excellent virtue and Christian piety) ended his life, and was Defied as appears by ancient Coins: and his son Constantine being present at his Father's death, forthwith proclaimed Emperor; from whence it may be gathered of what great estimation York was in those days, when the Roman Emperor's Court was held in it. This City flourished a long time under the English-Saxons Dominion, till the Danes like a mighty storm, thundering from out the North-East, destroyed it, and distained it with the blood of many slaughtered persons, and won it from Osbright and Flla Kings of Northumberland, who were both slain in their pursuit of the Danes: which Alcuine in his Epistle to Egelred King of Northumberland, seemed to pre●age before, when he said; What signifieth that raining down of blood in S. Peter's Church of York, even in a fair day, and descending in so violent and threatening a manner from the top of the roof? may it not be thought that blood is coming upon the Land from the North parts? Howbeit, At●e●stane recovered it from the Danish subjection, and quite overthrew the Castle, with the which they had fortified it; yet was it not (for all this) so freed from wars, but that it was subject to the Times fatally next following. Nevertheless, in the conquerors time when (after many woeful overthrows and troublesome storms) it had a pleasant calm of ensuing peace, it rose again of itself, and flourished afresh, having still the helping hand both of Nobility and Gentry, to recover the former dignity, and bring it to the perfection it hath: The Citizens fenced it round with new walls, and many towers and bulwarks, and ordaining good and wholesome laws for the government of the same. Which at this day are executed at the command of a Lord Maior, who hath the assistance of twelve Aldermen, many Chamberlains, a Recorder, a Town-clerk, six Sergeants at Mace, and two Esquires, which are, a Sword-bearer, and the Common Sergeant, who with a great Mace goeth on the left hand of the Sword. The Longitude of this City, according to Mercators' account, is 19 degrees, and 35. scruples: the Latitude 54. degrees and forty scruples. (10) Many occurrents present themselves with sufficient matter of enlargement to this discourse, yet none of more worthy consequence than were those several Battles, fought within the compass of this County; wherein Fortune had her pleasure as well as in the proof of her love, as in the pursuit of her tyranny; sometime sending the fruits of sweet peace unto her, and otherwhiles suffering her to taste the sourness of war. At Conishorough (in the Britain tongue C●aer Conan) was a great battle fought by Hengist, Captain of the English-Saxons, after he had retired himself thither for his safety, his men being fled and scattered, and himself discomfited by A●relius Ambrose; yet within few days after he brought forth his men to battle against the Britain's that pursued him, where the field was bloody both to him and his; for many of his men were cut in pieces, and he himself had his head chopped off, as the British History saith; which the Chronicles of the English-Saxons deny, reporting that he died in peace, being surcharged and overworn with the troublesome toils and travels of war. near unto Kirkstall, Oswie King of Northumberland put Penda the Mercian to flight: the place wherein the Battle was joined, the Writers call Winwid Field, giving it the name by the victory. And the little Region about it (in times past called by an old name Elmet) was conquered by Eadwin King of Northumberland, the son of Aela, after he had expelled Cereticus a British King, in the year of Christ, 620. At Casterford (called by Antonine Legeolium and Legetium) the Citizens of York slew many of King Ethelreds' Army, and had a great hand against him, in so much as he that before state in his throne of Majesty, was on a sudden daunted, and ready to offer submission. But the most worthy of memory, was that Field fought on Pal●-Sunday, 1461. in the quarrel of Lancaster and York, where England never saw more puissant Forces both of Gentry and Nobility: for there were in the field at one time (partakers on both sides) to the number of one hundred thousand fight men. When the fight had continued doubtful a great part of the day, the Lancastrians not able longer to abide the violence of their enemies, turned back and fled amain, and such as took part with York, followed them so hotly in chase, and killed such a number of Noble and Gentlemen, that thirty thousand Englishmen were that day left dead in the field. (11) Let us now loose the point of this compass, and sail into some other parts of this Province, to find out matter of other memorable moment▪ Under Knansbrough there is a Well called D●●ping-well, in which the waters spring not out of the veins of the earth, but distil and trickle down from the rocks that hang over it: It is of this virtue and efficacy, that it turns wood into stone: for what wood soever is put into it, will be shortly covered over with a stony bark, and be turned into stone, as hath been often observed. At Giggleswicke also about a mile from Settle (a Market-town) there are certain small springs not distant a quaits cast from one another: the middlemost of which doth at every quarter of an hour ebb and flow about the height of a quarter of a yard when it is highest, and at the ebb falleth so low, that it is not an inch deep with water. Of no less worthiness to be remembered is S. Wilfrids' Needle, a place very famous in times passed for the narrow hole in the close vaulted room under the ground, by which women's honesties were wont to be tried: for such as were chaste pass through with much facility; but as many as had played false, were miraculously held fast, and could not creep through. Believe if you list. The credible report of a Lamp found burning (even in our Father's remembrance, when Abbeys were pulled down and suppressed) in the Sepulchre of constantius, within a certain vault or little Chapel under the ground, wherein he was supposed to have been buried, might beget much wonder and admiration, but that L. Zius confirmeth that in ancient times they had a custom to preserve light in Sepulchers, by an artificial resolving of gold into a liquid and farry substance, which should continue bruning a long time, and for many ages together. THE BISHOPRIC OF DURHAM. CHAPTER XXXIX. THe Bishopric of Durham, containeth those parts and Townships that 〈…〉 the Rever Tees and Derwent, and all along the German-Sea 〈…〉 on the North wit● Northumberland, and their jurisdictions parted by the 〈…〉 touched by Cumberland, Westmoreland, and from 〈…〉 River Tees, and by the same water on her South, from Yorkshire 〈…〉 By the German-Sea. (2) The form thereof is triangle, 〈…〉 for from her South 〈◊〉 unto the West-point, are about thirty miles, from thence to the North-east and 〈…〉 are likewise as many, and her base along the Seashore are twenty- 〈…〉 Circumference, about one hundred and three miles. (3) The air is sharp and very piercing, and would be more, 〈◊〉 not that the 〈◊〉 from the German-Seas did help much to dissolve 〈◊〉 and snow: and the store of coals therein growing and gotten, do warm the body, and keep back the cold; which 〈…〉 besides their own use, doth yield great commodities unto this Province, by trade thereof 〈◊〉 other parts. (4) For Soil, it consisteth much alike of Pastures, 〈◊〉, and 〈◊〉 grounds: the East is the richest and most champion, the South more moorish, but 〈…〉 without either grass or grain, notwithstanding 〈…〉 with as great gain, both in rearing up Cattle, and 〈…〉 groweth so near to the upper 〈…〉 wheels do turn up the same. Some hold their substance to be a clammy kind of clay hardened with heat abounding in the earth, and so becoming concocted, is nothing else but Bitumen: for proof whereof, these Coals have both the like smell and operation of Bitumen: for being sprinkled with water, they burn more vehemently, but with oil are quite extinguished and put out. (5) The ancient Inhabitants known unto Ptolemie, were the brigants, of whom we have spoken in the General of Yorkshire, they being subdued by the romans'; after whom the Saxons made it a part of their Northumberlands Kingdom; at first a Province belonging to the Deirians, and enjoyed by Ella their first King; afterwards invaded by the Danes, and lastly possessed by the Normans: whose site being so near unto Scotland, hath many times felt their fury, and hath been as a Buckler betwixt them and the English; for which cause, the Inhabitants have certain freedoms, and are not charged with service as other Counties are, so that this with Westmoreland, Cumberland, and Northumberland, are not divided into hundreds in those Parliament Rolls whence I had the rest: which want I must leave for others to supply. (6) Over this County, the Bishops thereof have had the Royalties of Princes, and the Inhabitants have pleaded privilege not to pass in service of war over the River of Tees or Tyne; whose charge (as they have alleged) was to keep and defend the corpse of S Cuthbert their great adored Saint, and therefore they termed themselves, The holy-werk-folkes. And the repute of this Cuthbert and his supposed defence against the Scots was such, that our English Kings in great devotion have gone in pilgrimage to visit his Tomb, and have given many large possessions to his Church: such were King Egfred, Aelfred, and Guthrun the Dane, Edward and Athelstan Monarch of England, and zealous Cannte, the greatest of all, who came thither barefooted, and at Cuthberts' Tomb both augmented and confirmed their Liberties. This Saint then, of nothing made Durham become great, and William the Conqueror, of a Bishopric made it a County Palatine: at that time William Careleph, Bishop of the Diocese, pulled down the old Church which Aldwin had built, and with sumptuous cost laid the foundations of a new, wherein S. Cuthberts' Shrine in the vacancy of the Bishops, was the Keeper of the Castle-keyes. In the West of this Church, and place called Gallile, the Marble Tomb of venerable Beda remaineth, who was borne at jaerro in this County, and became a Monk at Weremouth, whose painful indust●es and light of learning in those times of darkness are wonderful, as the volumes which he wrote do well declare. And had the idle Monks of England employed their times after his example, their Founder's expectations had not been frustrate, nor those foundations so easily overturned. But the revenge of sin ever following the actions of sins, dissolved first the largeness of this Counties liberties, under the reign of King Edward the First, and since hath shaken to pieces those places herein erected, under the reign of King Henry the eight: such were Durham, Sherborne, Stayndr●p, jarro, ●eremouth, and Egleton; all which felt the reward of their idleness, and wrath of him that is jealous of his own honour. (7) Things of rare note observed in this Shire are three pits of a wonderful depth, commonly called the Hell-Kettles, which are adjoining near unto Darlington, whose waters are some what warm. These are thought to come of an Earthquake, which happened in the year of Grace 1179. whereof the Chrenicle of Tin-mouth maketh mention, whose record is this: On Christmas day, at Oxe●hall in the Territory of Darlington, within the Bishopric of Durham, the ground heaved up aloft, like unto an high Tower 〈…〉 all that day, as it were unmoveable, until the evening; 〈◊〉 than fell with so horrible a noise, that it made all the neighbour dwellers sore afraid: and the earth swallowed it up, and made in the same place a deep pit, which is there to be seen for a testimony unto this day. (8) Of no less admiration are certain stones lying within the River Were, at Butterbre near Durham; from whose sides at the Ebb and low water in the Summer, issueth a certain salt reddish water, which with the Sun waxeth white, and growing into a thick substance, becometh a necessary sal● to the use of the by-dwellers. (9) And places of elder times had in a●rount by the Romans, were Benonium, now Binchester, and C●ndereum, Chester in the street, where their moneys have been digged up, and at Codercu●● so much, that Egelrik Bishop of Durham was therewith made exceeding rich. WESTMORLAND: CHAPTER XL. WESTMORLAND, by some late Latin Writers is c●lled Westmaria, and Westmorlandia, by some later Westmoria, and in our English Tongue Westmoreland It came to be thus named in our language by the situation, which in every part is so plenteously full of Moors and high hills, teaching one to another, that Westmoreland (with us) is nothing else but a Western moorish Country. Having on the West and North-side Cumberland, on the South-part Lanca-shire, on the East-side Yorkshire, and the Bishopric of Durham. (2) The length thereof extended from Burton in her South, to Kirkland in her Northpart is 30. miles: the broadest part from East to West, is from the River Eden to Dunbal rase-stones, containing 24. miles, the whole circumference about 112. miles. (3) The form thereof is somewhat long and narrow: the Air sharp and piercing, purging itself from the trouble of gross foggy mists and vapours, by reason of which the people of this Province are not acquainted with strange diseases or imperfections of body, but live long, and are healthful, and attain to the number of many years. (4) The Soil for the most part of it, is but barren, and can hardly be brought to any fruitfulness by the industry and painful labour of the husbandman, being so full of infertile places, which the Northern Englishmen call Moores: yet the more Southerly part is not reported to be so sterile, but more fruitful in the valleys, though contained in a narrow room, between the River Lone, and W●●ander mear, and it is all termed by one name. The Barony of Kendale or Candale, that is, the dale by Can, taking the name of the River Can that runs through it. (5) The ancient Inhabitants of this Country were the brigants, mentioned in the several Counties of York, Lancaster, and Cumberland. (6) It is not commended either for plenty of Corn or Cattle, being neither stored with arable grounds to bring forth the one, nor pasturage to breed up the other: the principal profit that the people of this Province raise unto themselves, is by clothing. (7) The chiefest place of which is Kandale or Kendale, called also Kirkeby Kendale, standing on the bank of the River Can. This Town is of great trade and resort, and for the diligent and industrious practice of making cloth so excels the rest, that in regard thereof it carrieth a supereminent name above them, and hath great vent & trashque for her woollen clothes through all the parts of England. It challengeth not much glory for Antiquity; only this it accounteth a great credit, that it hath dignified three Earls with the title thereof, as john Duke of Bedford, whom Henry the fifth (being his brother) advanced to that honour, john Duke of Somerset, and john de Foix, whom King Henry the sixth preferred to that dignity for his honourable and trusty services done in the French wars. It is a place of very civil and orderly government, the which is managed by an Alderman, chosen every year out of his twelve Brethren, who are all distinguished and notified from the rest by the wearing of purple garments The Alderman and his Signior Brother are always justices of Peace and Quorum. There are in it a Town-clerk, a Recorder, two Sergeants at Mace, and two Chamberlains. By Mathematical observation the site of this Town is in the degree of Longitude 17. 30. scruples, from the first West point, and the Pole elevated in Latitude to the degree 55. and 15. minutes (8) Places of memorable note for Antiquity are Vertera, mentioned by Antonine the Emperor; and Aballaba, which we contractly call Apelby. In the one, the Northern English conspired against William the Conqueror in the beginning of the Norman government. In the other, the Aurelian Maures kept a station in the time of the Romans, and their high street is yet apparently to be seen by the ridges thereof which lead by Apelby to a place called Brovonacum, mentioned in the Book of Provincial notices. The antique pieces of Roman Coin other whiles digged up hereabouts, and some Inscriptions not long since found, show of what continuance they have been: although Time, which deuouteth all things, hath so fed upon their carcases many ages together, as it hath almost consumed both houses and Inhabitants. For Apelby now is bare both of people and building; and were it not for the antiquity that makes it the more esteemable, in whose Castle the Assizes are commonly kept, it would be little better in account then a village Verterae is long since decayed, and the name of it changed into Burgh: for it is commonly named Burgh under Sta●emore. In which, it is said, a Roman Captain made his abode with a band of Directores, in the declining age of the Roman Empire. These two places William of Newborough calleth Princely Holds, and writeth that William King of Scots a little before he himself was taken prisoner at Alnewicke, surprised them on a sudden, but King john recovered them after, and liberally bestowed them upon Robert V●pont, for his many worthy services. (9) There is mention made but of one religious house that hath been in all this Country, and that was a little Monastery seated near unto the River Lod●●, built by Tho●as the son of Gospatricke, the son of Orms: where there is a fountain or spring that ebbs and flows many times a day, and it is thought that some notable Act of Achievement hath been performed there, for that there be huge stones in form of Pyramids, some nine foot high, and fourteen foot thick, ranged for a mile in length directly in a row, and equally distant, which might seem to have been there purposely pitched in memory thereof: but what that Act was is not now known, but quite worn out of remembrance by times injury. (10) Other matters worthy observation are only these: That at Amboglana, now called Amble-side, near the upper corner of Winander mear, there appears at this day the ruins of an ancient City, which by the British-Brickes, by Romane-money oftentimes found there, by Highways paved leading unto it, and other likelihoods, seems to have been a work of the Romans: The Fortress thereof so long fenced with a ditch and rampire, that it took up in length one hundred thirty two else, and in breadth eight. There are also near Kendale in the River Can, two Catadupae or Waterfalls, where the waters descend with such a forcible downfall, that it compels a mighty noise to be heard, which the neighbour Inhabitants make such use of, as they stand them in as good stead as Prognostications: for when that which standeth North from them soundeth more clear, and with a louder echo in their ears, they certainly look for fair weather to follow: But when that on the South doth the like, they expect foggy mists and showers of rain. (11) This Province is traded with four Market-towns, fortified with the strength of seven Castles, and hath 26. Parishes in it for the celebration of Divine Service. CUMBERLAND. CHAPTER XLI. CUMBERLAND, the furthest Northwest Province in this Realm of England, confronteth upon the South of Scotland, and is divided from that Kingdom partly by the River kirson, then crossing Eske, by a tract thorough Solome-Mosse, until it come to the Solwaye Frith, by Ptolemie called the 〈◊〉 Bay. The Northwest part is neighboured by Northumberland, more Eastward with Westmoreland, the South with Lancashire, and the West is wholly washed with the Irish Seas. (2) The form whereof is long and narrow, pointing wedgelike into the South, which part is altogether pestered with copped-hilles, and therefore hath the name of Cop-land. The middle is more level, and better inhabited, yielding sufficient for the sustenance of man: but the North is wild and solitary, cumbered with hills, as Copland is. (3) The air is piercing, and of a sharp temperature, and would be more biting, were it not that those high hills break off the Northern storms, and cold falling snows. (4) Notwithstanding, rich is this Province, and with great varieties thereof is replenished: the hills, though rough, yet smile upon their beholders, spread with sheep and cattle, the valleys stored with grass and corn sufficient: the Sea affordeth great store of fish, the land overspread with variety of fowls, and the Rivers feed a kind of Muscle that bringeth forth Pearl, where in the mouth of the Irt, as they lie gaping and sucking in dew, the Country people gather and sell to the Lapidaries, to their own little, and the buyers great gain. But the Mines Royal of Copper, whereof this Country yieldeth much, is for use the richest of all: the place is at Keswick and Newland, where likewise the Black Lead is gotten, whose plenty maketh it of no great esteem; otherwise a commodity that could hardly be miss. (5) The ancient Inhabitants known to the Romans, were the brigants, whom Ptolemie disperseth into Westmoreland, Richmond, Durham, Yorkshire, and Lanca-shire. But when the Saxons had over borne the Britain's, and forced them out of the best, to seek their resting among the vast Mountains, these by them were entered into, where they held play with those enemies maugre their force, and from them, as Mariama doth witness, the Land was called Cumber, of those Kumbri the Britain's. But when the State of the Saxons was fore shaken by the Danes, this Cumberland was accounted a Kingdom itself; for so the Flower-gatherer of Westminster recordeth: King Edmund (saith he) with the help of Leoline Prince of South-Wales, wasted all Cumberland, and having put out the eyes of the two sons of Dunmail King of that Province, granted that Kingdom unto Molcolm King of Scots, whereof their eldest sons became Prefects. This Province, King Stephen, to purchase favour with the Scots, what time he stood in most need of aid, confirmed by gift under their Crown; which Henry the second notwithstanding made claim unto and got, as Newbrigensis writeth, and laid it again in the Marches of England: since when, many bicker betwixt these Nations herein have happened, but none so sore against the Scotish side, as was that at Sallome-Mosse, where their Nobility disdaining their General Oliver Sinclere, gave over the Battle, and yielded themselves to the English; which dishonour pierced so deeply into the heart of King james the fifth, that for grief thereof he shortly after died. (6) Many memorable Antiquities remain and have been found in this County: for it being the Confines of the Romans Possessions, was continually secured by their Garrisons, where remain a● this day parts of that admirable wall built by Seuer●s: also another Fortification from W●rkinton to Elus Mouth, upon the Sea-shoare toward Ireland, by Stilico raised, when under Theodosius he suppressed the rage of the Picts and Irish, and freed the Seas of the Saxons Pirates. Upon Hardknot hill, Moresby, Old Carlisle, Pap-castle along the Wall, and in many other places, their ruins remain, with altars, and Inscriptions of their Captains and Colonies, whereof many have been found, and more as yet lie hid. (7) The chiefest City in this Shire is Carlisle, pleasantly seated betwixt the Rivers Eden, Petterell, and Caud, by the Romans called Luguvallum; by Beda, Luell; by Ptolemy, Leucopibia; by Nurture Caer-Lu●lid; and by us Carlisle. This City flourishing under the Romans, at their departure, by the furious outrages of the Scots and Picts was dejected, yet in the days of Egfrid King of Northumberland was walled about: but again defaced by the overrunning Danes, lay buried in her own ashes the space of two hundred years; upon whose ruins at length Rufus set his compassionate eye, and built there the Castle, planting a Colony of Flemings to secure the Coasts from the Scots, but upon better advisement removed them into Wales. After him, Henry his brother and successor ordained this City for an Episcopal See: whose site is placed in the degree of Longitude from the first West part 17. and 2. scruples, and the Pole thence elevated from the degree of Latitude 55. and 56. scruples. (8) West from hence, at Burgh upon the sand, was the fatal end of our famous Monarch King Edward the first, who there leaving his wars unfinished against Scotland, left his troubles, and soon miss life, to his untimely and soon lamented death. (9) And at Salkelds upon the River Eden, a Monument of seventy seven stones, each of them ten foot high above ground, and one of them at the entrance fifteen, as a Trophy of Victory was erected. These are by the By-dwellers called Long Meg and her daughters. NORTHUMBERLAND. CHAPTER XLII. THe County of Northumberland, hath on the South the Bishopric of Durham, being shut in with the River Derwent, and with Tyne; the North is confined upon Scotland, the West upon part of Scotland and part of Cumberland: the East-side lieth altogether upon the Sea, called Mare-Germanicum. (2) The form thereof is Triangle, and differs not much in the sidings; for from her Southeast unto the South-West-point are near unto 40. miles; from thence to 〈◊〉 North-point are sixty miles, and her base along the Sea-shoare 45. miles: The whole in circum●●●● is about one hundred forty five miles. (3) The Air must needs be subtle and piercing, for that the Northernly parts are most exposed to extremity of weathers, as great winds, hard frosts, and long lying of snows, etc. Yet would it be far more sharper than it is, were not the german Seas a ready means to further the dissolution of her Ice and Snow, and the plenty of Coals there gotten, a great help to comfort the body with warmth, and defend the bitter coldness. (4) The Soil cannot be rich, having neither fertility of ground for Corn or Cattle, the most part of it being rough, and in every place hard to be manured, save only towards the Sea and the River Tyne, where, by the great diligence and industrious pains of good husbandry, that part is become very fruitful. (5) The ancient Inhabitants of this Country, mentioned by Ptolemie, were called OTTALINI, OTTADENI, and OTTADINI, which by an easy alteration (as M. Cambden saith) if it had e'en called OTTATINI, signifying, about the River Tyne, or on the further side of Tyne 〈…〉 this people were planted) there would have been much consonance both with the name of the Inhabitants, and the Position and Site of the Province. (6) The chiefest commodity that enricheth this County, are those Stones Linthancraces, which we call Sea-coals, whereof there is such plenty and abundance digged up, as they do not only return a great gain to the Inhabitants, but procure also much pleasure and profit to others. (7) No place of this Province vents forth so many of these Sea-coals into other regions as Newcastle doth, being the very eye of all the Towns in this County: for it doth not only minister relief (by such provision) to all other parts of England, but doth also farnish the wants of foreign Countries with her plenty. By means of this and the intercourse of traffic which it hath, the place is grown ex●eeding rich and populous. Before the Conquest it was called Monk-chester: having been (〈…〉) in the possession of Monks: and Chester being added, which signifies a bulwark or place of defence, shows that in ancient time it had been a place of Fortification. (8) After the Conquest it got the name of Newcastle▪ by the new Castle which Robert the Son of William the Conqueror built there, out of the ground. What it was called in old time is not known, yet some are of opinion, that it may be thought to have been Gatrosentum for that Gateshead, the suburb (as it were) of the same, expresseth in the own proper signification that British name, Gatrosentum It is now most ennobled both by the Haven (which Tyne maketh) of that notable depth, that it beareth very tall Ships, and is able to defend them against storms and tempests. As also by many favours and honours wherewith it hath been dignified by paces: for Richard the second, granted that a Sword should be carried before the Mayor, and Henry the sixth made it a County consisting of a Corporation within itself. It is adorned with four Churches, and fortified with strong walls that have eight gates. It is distant from the first West line 21 degrees and 30 minutes, and from the Equinoctial live towards the North-pole thirtiefoure degrees and fiftie-seaven minutes. (9) The utmost Town in England, and the strongest hold in all Britain, is Berwick. From whence it had the name is not certainly made known. Some fetch it from Berengarius, a Duke (never read of:) Howsoever, this is better to be said then trusted: and whence soever it hath the name, it is seated between two mighty Kingdoms, shooting far into the Sea, with the which, and the River Tweed, it is almost encompassed: and whensoever any discord fell between the two Nations, this place was the first thing they took care of. It hath endured the brunts of diverse inroads and incursions, and been oftentimes both possessed and repossessed of the Scots and English: But since it was reduced under the command of Edward the fourth, our Kings have from time to time so strengthened it with new works and fortifications, as they cut off all hopes of winning it. The Governor of this Town is also Warden of the East Marches against scotland. The Longitude of it according to Mathematical observation, is 21. degrees and 43. minutes: the Latitude 55. degrees and 48. minutes. (10) The Inhabitants of this County are a warlike people, and excellent light horsemen, and are made fierce and hard by the several encounters of the Scots, and not much unlike them in neither, betwixt whom in this County, many Battles have been fought, and the successes oftentimes waved through very doubtfully, the victory sometimes falling to the scots, sometimes to the English. At Otterburne was one, in which three or four times it stood doubtfully indifferent, till in the end the Scots got the upper hand of the English: Howbeit, their glory was not made so illustrious by this Conquest, but that it was as much darkened by the foil they received at A●wicke, where William King of Scots, was taken and presented prisoner to Henry the second. As also by that Battle at Brumridge, where King Athelstan fought a pitched field against Anlafe the Dane, Constantine King of Scots, and Eugenius King of Cumberland, and that with such fortunate success, as it hath left matter sufficient to fill the pens of Historians. Flodden field also, memorable in the death of james the fourth, King of Scots, who was there slain, and his Army overthrown in a sharp fight, as he displayed his Banner (in great hope) against England, when King Henry the eight lay at the siege of Turnay in France (11) Other Battles in this County have been, as that at Hexam (called by Bede, Hangustald) wherein john Nevil, marquis Montacute, encountered the Leaders of the Lancastrian faction with much courage, and with greater success put them to flight, for which he was made Earl of Northumberland by Edward the fourth As also that at Dilston (by Bede called Diuelshur●e,) where Oswald having the faith of Christ for his defence and armour, slew Cedwall the Britain in a set battle, himself straightways becoming a professed Christian, and causing his people to be instructed in Christian Religion. (12) Many memorable antiquities are found in this Country along the wall, and in other places: As pieces of Coin, Inscriptions, broken and unperfect Altars, etc. (the ruins of the wall yet to be seen:) but none that deserves more to be remembered then Wall-Towne (by Bede called Ad Muru●) for that Segebert King of the Eastsaxons was in it baptised in the Christian Faith by the hands of Paulinus: and Halyston, where the same Paulinus is said to have baptised many thousands into the Faith of Christ, in the Primitive Church of the English Nation. (13) Busy-gap is a place infamous for robbing and thieving, and is therefore rather remembered as a cautiatory note for such as have cause to travel that way, then for any proper matter of worth it hath, that merits place with other parts of this Province. Other matters of observation are only these, that North Tyne (running through the Wall) waters two Dales, which breed notable light horsemen, and both of them have their hills (hard by) so boggy, and standing with water on the top, that no horsemen are able to ride through them, and yet (which is wonderful) there be many great heaps of Stones (called Laws) which the neighbouring people are verily persuaded were cast up and laid together in old time, in remembrance of some that were slain there. There is also a martial kind of men which lie out, up and down in little Cottages (called by them Sheals and Shealing) from April to August, in scattering fashion, summering (as they term it) their Cattle, and these are such a sort of people as were the ancient Nomades. The last, not least, matter of note is this, that the Inhabitants of Morpeth set their own Town on fire in the year of Christ 1215. in the spite they bore to King john, for that he and his Rutars overranne these Countries. MAN ISLAND. CHAPTER XLIII. THe I'll of Man is termed by Ptolemy, M●neda; by Pliny, Menavia; by Orosius, Menania by Beda, Menania secunda, and by Gyldas, 〈◊〉, and M●naw. The Britain name it Men●w; the Inhabitants, Ma●●ge; and we Englishmen, The I'll of Man It boundeth Northward upon Scotland, southward upon the I'll of Anglesey, Eastward upon part of 〈◊〉- shire, and Westward upon the Coast of Ireland. (2) The form is long and narrow: for from 〈◊〉 to the Mull-hils, where it is longest, it only stretcheth itself to twenty nine miles; but from the widest part, which is from Peele-Castle to Douglas-point, are scarce nine; the whole compass about, is fourscore and two miles. (3) The air is so cold and sharp, being bordering upon the 〈◊〉 parts, and for her shelter having but a wall of water. They have few woods; only they light sometimes upon so subterranean trees buried under the ground, by digging up the earth for a clammy kind of 〈◊〉, which they use for fuel. (4) The soil is reasonable fruitful both for Cattle, Fish, and Corn; yet it rather commendeth the pains of the people than the goodness of the ground; for by the industry of the Inhabitants it yields sufficiency of every thing for itself, and sendeth good store into other Countries. It hath fields (by good manuring) plenteous of Barley and Wheat, but especially 〈…〉 and from hence it comes that the people eat most of all Oaten-bread. It bears abundance of 〈◊〉 and Flax, and is full of mighty flocks of sheep and other cattle: yet are they smaller in body than we have in England, and are much like to the Cattle in Ireland that are neighbouring upon it. (5) This commodity makes this Island more happy than we are here: for the people are there free from unnecessary commencements of Suits, from long and dilatory Pleas, and from frivolous seeing of Lawyers No judge or Clerks of the Court take there any penny for drawing Instruments, or making of Processes All Controversies are there determined by certain judges, without writings or other charges, and them they call Deemsters, and choose forth among themselves, If any complaint be made to the Magistrate for wrongs either done or suffered, he presently taketh up a stone, and fixeth his mark upon it, and so delivereth it unto the party plaintiff, by virtue of which he both calls his adversary to appearance, and to produce his witnesses. If the case fall out to be more litigious, and of greater consequence than can easily be ended, it is then referred to twelve men, whom they term The Keys of the Island. Another happiness enricheth this Island, namely the security and government thereof, as being defended from neighbour enemies by Soldiers that are pressed and ready; for on the Southside of the I'll stands Balacuri (the Bishop's chief place of residence) and the Pyle, and a Block-house standing in a little Island, where there is a continual Garrison of Soldiers. And it is so well managed for matter of rule and civil discipline, that tuery man there possesseth his own in peace and safety. No man lives in dread or danger of losing what he hath. Men are not there inclined to robbing or thieving, or licentious living. (6) The Inhabitants of this Island are for the most part religious, and loving to their Pastors, to whom they do much reverence and respect, frequenting daily to divine Service, without division in the Church or innovation in the Commonweal. The wealthier sort, and such as hold the fairest possessions, do imitate the people of Lanca-shire, both in their honest carriage and good house-keeping. Howbeit, the common sort of people both in their language and manners, come nighest unto the Irish, although they somewhat relish and favour of the qualities of the Norwegians. (7) Things not worthy to be buried in the grave of oblivion are, that this Island in the midst thereof riseth up with hills, standing very thick; amongst which the highest is called Sceafull, from whence upon a clear and fair day, a man may easily see three Kingdoms at once; that is, Scotland, England, and Ireland. This I'll prohibits the customary manner ofbegging from door to door, detesting the disorders, as well Civil as Ecclesiastical of neighbour Nations. And last, not least, that deserves to be committed to memory, is, that the women of this Country, wheresoever they go out of their doors, gird themselves about with the winding-sheete that they purpose to be buried in, to show themselves mindful of their mortality: and such of them as are at any time condemned to dye, are sowed within a sack, and flung from a rock into the Sea. (8) The whole Isle is divided into two parts, South and North, whereof the one resembleth the Scotish in speech, the other the Irish. It is defended by two Castles, and hath seventeen Parishes, five Market-towns, and many Villages. A Chronicle of the Kings of MAN. CHAPTER XLIIII. IT is here very pertinent to the purpose, to insert a small History of this Island, that the achievements heretofore had, may not be utterly buried, although they are waxen very old, and almost torn from remembrance by the teeth of Time. It is confessed by all, that the Britaines held this Island, as they did all Britain. But when the Nations from the North overflowed those South parts, like violent tempests, it became subject to the Scots. Afterwards, the Norwegians who did most hurt from the Northern Sea by their manifold robberies, made this Island and the Hebrides to be their baunt, and erected Lords and petry Kings in the same, as is expressed in this Chronicle, written (as is reported) by the Monks of the Abbey of Russin. A Chronicle of the Kings of MAN. ANno Dom. 1065. Edward, of blessed memory, King of England, departed this life, and Harald the Son of Godwyn succeeded him in the Kingdom: against whom Harald Harfager (King of Norway) came into the field, and fought a Battle at Stainford-bridge: but the English obtaining the victory, put them all to flight. Out of which chase Godred, surnamed Crovan, the son of Harald the black of Iseland, came unto Godred the son of Syrric, who Reigned then in Man, and honourably received him. (2) The same year William the Bastard Conquered England, and Godred the son of Syrric died, his son Fingal succeeding him. (3) An. 1066. Godred Crovan assembled a great Fleet, and came to Man, and sought with the people of the Land, but received the worst, and was overcome. The second time renewing his Forces and his Fleet, he failed into Man, and joined Battle with the Manksmen, but was vanquished as before, and driven out of the field. Howbeit, what he could not at first bring to pass with power in those two several onsers, he afterward effected by policy. For the third time gathering a great multitude together, he arrived by night in the haven called Ra●sey, and hid three hundred men in a Wood, which stood upon the hanging hollow brow of an hill called Sceafull. The Sun being risen, the Manksmen put their people in order of Battle, and with a violent charge encountered with Godred. The fight was hot for a time, and stood in a doubtful suspense, till those three hundred men starting out of the Ambush behind their backs, began to foil the Manksmen, put them to the worst, and forced them to fly. Who seeing themselves thus discomfited, and finding no place of refuge left them to escape, with pitiful lamentation submitted themselves unto Godred, and besought him not to put to the sword such poor remainder of them as was left alive. Godred having compassion on their calamities, (for he had been nursed for a time and brought up among them) sounded a retreat, and prohibited his Host any longer perfuie. He being thus possessed of the I'll of Man, died in the Island that is called Isle, when he had reigned sixteen years. He left behind him three sons, Lagman, Harald, and Olaue. (4) Lagman the eldest, taking upon him the Kingdom, reigned seven years. His brother Harald rebelled against him a great while; but at length was taken prisoner by Lagman, who caused his members of generation to be cut off, and his eyes to be put out of his head, which cruelty this Lagman afterwards repenting, gave over the Kingdom of his own accord, and wearing the badge of the Lords Cross, took a journey to jerusalem, in which he died. (5) An 1075. all the Lords and Nobles of the Iland● hearing of the death of Lagman, dispatched Ambassadors to Murecard O-brien, King of Ireland, and requested that he would send some worthy and industrious man of the Blood Royal to be their King, till Olaue the son of Godred came to full age. The King yielding to their request, sent one Dopnald the son of Tade, and charged him to govern the Kingdom (which by right belonged to another,) with lenity and gentleness. But after be was come to the Crown, forgetting, or not weighing the charge that his Lord and Master had given him, swayed his place with great tyranny, committing many outrages and cruelties, and so reigned three years: till all the Princes of the Lands agreeing together, rose up against him, and made him fly into Ireland. (6) An. Dom. 1111. Olaue the son of Godred Crovan aforesaid, began his reign, and reigned forty years a peaceable Prince. He took to wife Africa, the daughter of Fergus of Gal-way, of whom he begat Godred. By his Concubines he had Raignald, Lagman, and Harald, besides many daughters, whereof one was married to Summerled, Prince of Herergaidel, who caused the ruin of the Kings of the Lands. On her he begat four sons, Dulgal, Raignald, Engus, and Olaue. (7) An. Dom. 1144 Godred the son of Olaue, was created King of Man, and reigned thiritie years. In the third year of his reign the people of Dublin sent for him, and made him their King. Which Murecard King of Ireland maligning, raised war, and sent Osibeley his half brother by the mother's side with 3000. men at Arms to Dublin, who by Godred and the Dublinians was slain, and the rest all put to flight. These achievements made, Godred returned to Man, and began to use tyranny, turning the Noblemen out of their inheritances. Whereupon one called Thorfin (utters son) being mightier than the rest, came to Summerled, and made Dulgal (Summerleds son) King of the Lands: whereof Godred having intelligence, prepared a Navy of 80. Ships to meet Summerled. And in the year 1156. there was a Battle fought at Sea on Twelfth day at night, and many slain on both sides But the next day they grew to a pacification, and divided the Kingdom of the Lands among themselves. This was the cause of the overthrow of the Kingdom of the Iles. (8) Ann 1158. Summerled came to Man, with a fleet of fifty three sail, put Godred to flight, and wasted the Island. Godred upon this crossed over to Norway for aid against Summerled. But Summerled in the mean time arriving at Rhinfrin, and having gathered together: fleet of 160 ships, coverting to subdue all Scotland, by the rust judgement of God, was vanquished by a few, and both himself and his son slain, with an infinite number of people. (9) The fourth day after, Raignald, began to reign, but Godred coming upon him out of Norway with a great multitude of Armed men, took his brother Raignald, and be rest him both of his eyes and genital members. On the fourth Ides of November, An. Dom. 1187. Godred King of the Lands died, and his body was translated to the I'll of Ely▪ He left behind him three sons, Raignald, Olaue, and Yuar. He ordained in his life time that Olaue should succeed him, because he only was borne legitimate. But the people of Man seeing him to be scarce ten years old, sent for Raignald, and made him their King. I his caused great division, and many turbulent attempts between the two Brethren for the space of thirty eight years; which had no end, till at a place called Tnigualla there was a battle struck between them, wherein Olaue had the victory, and Raignald was slain. The Monks of Russin translated his body unto the Abbey of S. Marry de Fournes, and there interred it in a place which himself had chosen for that purpose. (10) An. 1230. Olaue and Godred Don (who was Raignalds son) with the Norwegians came to Man, and divided the Kingdom among themselves. Olaue held Man, and Godred being gone unto the Lands, was slain in the I'll Lodhus So Olaue obtained the Kingdom of the Isses. He died the twelfth Calends of Lune, Anno 1237. in Saint Patrick's Island, and was buried in the Abbey of Russin. (11) Harrold his son succeeded him, being fourteen years of age, and reigned 12 years. In the year 1239. he went unto the King of Norway, who after two years confirmed unto him, his heirs and successors, under his Seal, all the Lands which his predecessors had possessed. (12) An. 1242. Harrold returned out of Norway, and being by the Inhabitants honourably received, had peace with the Kings of England and of Scotland. The same year he was sent for by the King of Norway, and married his daughter. In the year 1249. as he returned homeward with his wife, he was drowned in a tempest near unto the coasts of Radland. (13) An Dom. 1249. Raignald the son of Olaue, and brother to Harrold, began his reign, and on the thirtieth day there of was slain by one Yuar a Knight, in a meadow near unto the holy Trinity Church, and lieth buried in the Church of S. Mary of Russin. (14) In the year 1252. Magnus, the son of Olaue, came to Man and was made King. The next year following he went to the King of Norway, and stayed there a year. (15) In the year 1265. Magnus (Olaues son) King of Man, and of the Lands, departed this life, at the Castle of Russin, and was buried in the Church of S. Mary of Russin. (16) In the year 1266. the Kingdom of the Lands was translated, by reason of Alexander King of Scots, who had gotten into his hands the Western Lands, and brought the I'll of Man under his dominion, as one of that number. HOLY ISLAND. CHAPTER XLV. THis Island is called Lindisfarne, by the River Lied that is opposite unto it on the Coast of Northumberland. Beda termeth it a Deiny Island. The Britain name it 〈…〉, for that it twice every day suffreth an extraordinary inundation and overflowing of the Ocean in manner of an Island, which twice likewise makes it continent to the Land, and returning unto her watery habitation, lays the Shore bore again, as before. It is called in English, Holy-Iland, for that in ancient times many Monks have been accustomed to retire themselves thither, and to make it their receptacle for solitude: having on the West and South, Northumberland, and more South-Eastward the Island Farne. (2) The form of it is long and narrow, the West side narrower than the East, and are both conjoined by a very small spang of land that is left unto Comes. The South is much 〈◊〉 than the rest It is from East to West, about two thousand two hundred and fifty pases; and from North to South, twelve hundred and fifty pases; so that the circumference cannot be great. (3) The air is not very good either for health or delight, as being seated on those parts that are subject to extremity of cold, and greatly troubled with vapours and toggy mists that arise from the Seas. (4) The soil cannot be rich, being rocky and full of stones, and unfit for Corn and T●●age. It is neither commended for hills to seed sheep, nor pastures to fit Cattle, 〈…〉 replenished with sweet springs, or running rivellets, only one excepted, 〈…〉 standing pond. The only thing this Island yieldeth, is a stand accommodate 〈…〉 and fowling. (5) Notwithstanding, this is very worthy of note concerning the same, which Alcun wrote in an Epistle to Egelred King of Northumberland, namely, that it was a place more venerable than all the places of Britain, and that after the departure of S. Paulinus from York, there Christian Religion began in their Nation, though afterwards it there felt the first beginning of misery and calamity, being left to the spoil of Pagans and M●●●oants. (6) It is also remembered of this Island, that sometimes there hath been in it an Episcopal See, which A●dan the Scot instituted (being called thither to Preach the Christian Faith to the people of Northumberland) being thus delighted with the solitary situation thereof, as a most fit place for retire. But afterwards when the Danes●isled ●isled and robbed all the Seacoasts, the Episcopal See was translated to Durham. (7) This Island so small in account either for compass or Commodity, and so unpeopled and unprofitable, cannot be numerous in Towns and Villages. It hath in it only one Town, with a Church and a Castle, under which there is a commodious Haven, defended with a Block-house, situate upon in hill towards the Southeast. FARNEILE. THis I'll South-eastward seven miles from Holy Island, showeth itself distant almost two miles from Bambrough Castle. On the West and South it beareth upon Northumberland, and on the North-east-side it hath other smaller Lands adjoining to it, as Widopens & Staple Island, which lie two miles off Bronsinan, and two lesser than these, which are called the Wambes. (2) The form of this I'll is round, and no larger in compass then may easily be ridden in one half of a day. The breadth of it is but five miles, and the length no more. The whole circumference extends itself no further than to fifteen miles. (3) The air is very unwholesome, and subject both to many Dysenteries and other diseases, by reason of the misty fogs and exhalations that are thereunto drawn up from the Ocean. It is many times troubled with unusual tempests of winds, with boisterous fury of stormy reins, and with several and uncouth rages of the Sea. (4) The soil cannot be fertile, being encircled about with craggy cliffs; neither hath it in it much matter either of pleasure or profit. It can neither defend itself from cold, lacking fuel, as Wood, Coale, Turfs, etc. nor from famine, wanting food, as Corn, Pastures, Cattle, etc. The best commodity it yields, is Fish and Fowl. (5) This thing nevertheless is worthy to be remembered of it, which Beda (writing of the life of Cuthbert Bishop of Lindisfarne, that Tutelar Pa●ron of the Northern Englishmen) reporteth, namely, that in this I'll he built a City fitting his government, and erected certain houses in the same; the whole building standing almost round in compass, and reaching the space of four or five pearches. The wall about it he made higher than a man's height, to withhold and keep in the want on lasciviousness both of his thoughts and eyes, and to elevate the whole intention of his mind up to heavenly desires, that he might wholly give himself to the service of God. But these are all made the ruins of time, as sithence many other Monuments have been, of worthy antiquity. (6) I cannot report that there are now many houses standing in it, much less Towns or Villages. Only this, that it hath a Tower or place of Fortification belonging unto it, placed well-near in the middle part of the I'll. GARNSEY. THis Island lieth about five leagues Northwest from jersey, and is compassed (like to her neighbour) with the British Sea. It lieth in length from Plymouth bay South-west, to Lancrosse de Ancke●● North-east, thirteen miles: in breadth from S. Martin's point Southeast, to the whither Northwest nine miles; and is in circuit thirty six miles. The Emperor Antonine having the rule and domination of France (at that time called Gaul, from whence the word Gallia is derived) did name this Island Sarnia, which afterward by the change of Times and corruption of Languages, was long since (and is at this day) called Garnsey. (2) This I'll in form and fashion standeth in the Sea, much like to a Park that is encompassed round about with a Pale of Rocks, being very defensible unto the Island from the attempting innovation of enemies. (3) The Air and Climate of this I'll hath little or no difference in temper or quality from that of jersey. And this deserves to be remembered of it; that in this I'll is neither Toad, Snake, Adder, or any other venomous creature, and the other hath great plenty. (4) It standeth for the most part upon a rock, very high in many places from the Sea. Nevertheless the Soil is very fruitful, yielding forth great plenty of grass for their Sheep and other cattle, which they have to serve all uses▪ Their fields in the Summer time are so naturally garnished with flowers of all sorts, that a man (being there) might conceit himself to be in a pleasant artificial garden. (5) The Inhabitants are not so much given to tillage as they of jersey, though the soil be as fruitful. They have of late taken great delight in planting and setting of trees of all sorts, and especially of Apples, by reason whereof they make much Cider. Their commodities are alike, and their helps from the Sea no less, or rather more. (6) In this I'll are many great steep Rocks, among which is found a hard stone called by the Frenchmen Smyris, which we term Emerill. This stone is serviceable for many purposes, and many Trades, as Glasiers, etc. but especially for the Goldsmiths and Lapidaries, to cut their precious stones. (7) It hath a head of Land upon the North part thereof, the passage into which is so narrow, that a man would think that at every Tide (the Sea beating strongly on both sides) it were in a continual danger to be sundered from the other part of the I'll. This place is called S. Michaelin the Vale, where (in former times) stood a Priory, or a Covent of religious persons, the ruins whereof are at this day to be seen. (8) The government of this I'll, in nature and form resembles the other of jersey, of whom shall be said. The people in their Original and Language alike also, but in their customs and conditions they come nearer the civil fashions of the English. Other matters of moment I find not worthy to be recorded. It hath ten Parishes, and one Market-town, being also a Haven, and is called S. Peter's Port, built close by the Peer, and Castle Cornet. JERSEY. THe two Land's jersey and Garnsey, being the only remains of the Dukedom of Normandy, that in former times many years together was in the possession, and under the command of the Kings of England, annexing thereunto a large Territory and glorious title to the Crown, are both seated in the Sea called Mare Britannicum, the Ocean parting them a good distant asunder, and are now both adjuncts, and within the circuit of Hampshire. For the first (being the Isle of jersey) it lieth upon the British Sea, having on the North parts the coasts of Hampshire, and on the South the Country of Normandy. (2) This Island is long, not much unlike the fashion of an Egg. It contains in length from Sentwon Pool upon the West, to Mount Orguil Castle on the East, ten miles, and in breadth from Dubon point to Plymount-bay six miles: the whole circuit of the Island being thirty eight miles▪ It is distant from a little Island called Alderney, about four leagues. It was in old time called Caesaria; whether from julius Octanius, or any the other Caesars that followed, is unknown. But the Frenchmen have by corruption of speech long time called it jersey. (3) It is a very delightsome and healthful Island, and giveth a pleasant aspect unto the Seas. It lieth Southward not far from a craggy ridge of rocks, which is much feared of the Mariners, and makes the passage that way very dangerous, howbeit it serves for a forcible defence against Pirates, or any strangers that attempt invasion, and they are termed Casquets. (4) The Soil is very fertile, bringing forth store of Corn and Cattle, but especially of sheep, that are of reasonable bigness, the most of them bearing four horns a piece: Their wool very fine and white, of which the Inhabitants make their jersey stockings, which are ordinarily to be had in most parts of England, and yield a great commodity unto the Island. (5) The first original of the Inhabitants sprung either from the Normans, or Britain's, or both. They speak French, though after a corrupt manner, and have continued their names, language, customs, and Country, without any, or little intermixture, these many hundred years, having been under the jurisdiction of the English ever since the untimely and unnatural death of Robert Duke of Normandy, eldest son to William the Conqueror. (6) The people of this Country live very pleasantly, as well by the profits of the Land, as the helps and furtherances of the Sea, that yields unto them (and especially in Summer season) great store of fish, but principally Conger and Lobsters, the greatest and fattest upon the coast of England Wood is very scant, for their best fuel is Turf: some Coal they have brought unto them, but it is very dear; straw, fur, and fern serving their ordinary uses. The middle part of the Island hath many pretty Hills rising in it, yielding a delightful object unto the valleys, that receive from one another a mutual pleasure. (7) The Governor of the I'll is the Captain thereof, who appointeth certain Officers under him: the principal of whom, carrieth the name and title of a Bailiff, that in civil causes hath the assistance of twelve jurats to determine of differences, and minister justice: in criminal matters seven: in matters of reason and conscience, five. Their twelve are chosen out of the twelve Parishes: so that no man goeth further to complain, then to his own Iurate in ordinary Controversies; but matters of moment and difficulty are determined before the Bailiff in a general meeting. THE DESCRIPTION OF WALES. CHAPTER I. Antiquity hath avouched, that the whole Isle of Britain was divided into three parts▪ The first and fairest lay contained within the French Seas, the Rivers of Severne, Dee, and Humber, called then ●●oyger, which name yet it retaineth in W●●sh; in English called England. The second part occupied all the land Northward from Humber, to the Orkney Sea, called by the Latins, Mare Caledonium, or Deucaledonium, now famously known by the name of Scotland. The third part was this, lying betwixt the Irish Seas, the Rivers Severne and Dee, and was called Cambria, which name doth yet continue with them, though we, the English, call it Wales, as the people Welshmen, which is strange and strangers; for so at this day the dwellers of tyrol in the higher Germany, whence our Saxons are said to have come, do name the Italian (their next neighbour) a Welshman, and his language Welsh. (2) This opinion Verstegan doth altogether contradict, rather judging by the ancient Tentonicks tongue, which the Germans spoke, and wherein the G. is pronounced for W. that these Saxons called them Gallish from the Go●les, whence their original proceeded, rather then Wallish from strangers: which he thinketh could not be, considering their habitations ●o near unto them; and that the like was in use, he proveth by the words of French, Guardian for Wardian, Corangalles' for 〈◊〉 yea, and Galls for Wales, calling our most famous Edward, Prince of Galls, not Prince of Wales; insomuch that the County of Lombardy, bordering along upon the Germans, was of them called Gallia Cisalpina, and at this day Welshland. So likewise do the Netherlanders call the Inhabitants of Henal● and Artois, Wallen or Walloons, and some parts of Braban● and Flander●, Welsh-Braban●, and Welsh-Flanders, and all because of the language or lineage of the Gauls. Neither do the mere Natives of Wales know any other name of their Country then Cambria, of themselves, than Cambri or Cumri, or of their language then Cambraoc. But leaving this opinion free to his affection, we will proceed▪ (3) Wales therefore being anciently bounded as before, the Saxons did afterwards win by force from the Britain's, all the plain and champion Country over the River Dee; and especially Offa King of Mercia, made their limits straighter, by making a ditch of great breadth & depth, to be a Mere betwixt his Kingdom and Wales. This ditch is in many places to be seen at this day, and bears the name of Claws Offa, that is, Offaes' Ditch. The Country between it and England is commonly called the Marches, and is for the most part inhabited by Welshmen, especially in North-Wales, even to the River Dee. This admirable Trench began at Bassingwerke in Flintshire, between Chester and Ruthlan, and ran along the hills to the South Sea, a little from Bristol, reaching above an hundred miles in length. (4) Silvester Giraldus makes the River Wye to be the Mere between England and Wales, on the South part, called South-Wales: whence he ascribeth the breadth of Wales unto Saint David's in Menevia, to be an hundred miles; and the length from Caerleon upon uske in Gwentland, to Holly head in Anglesey, an hundred miles, he might have said thirty more. (5) About the year of Christ 870. our Alfred reigning in England, Rodericus Magnus King of Wales did divide it into three, Talaiths, Regions, or Territories, which were called Kingdoms. This Rodericus Magn●● gave Venedotia, Gwineth or North-Wales, to Anarawd his eldest son; to Cadeth his second son, Demetia, Deheubarth or South-Wales; and to mervin his third son, Powys. (6) North-Wales had upon the North side, the Irish Sea, from the River Dee at Bassingwerke to Aberdyni: upon the West and South-West, the River Dyni, which divideth it from South-Wales, and in some places from Powysland. And on the South and East, it is divided from Powys, sometimes with high hills, and sometimes with Rivers, till it come again to the River Dee. It is generally full of high mountains, craggy rocks, great woods, and deep valleys, many strait dangerous places, deep and swift Rivers. (7) This Land was of old time divided into four parts, Môns, Aruon, Meryonyth, and y Berued●wlan, or the middle Country, and each of these were again divided into several Cantrenes, and they subdivided into their Cymeden or Commots, wherein we follow that division which was in the time of Llewylyn ap Gruffin, last Prince of Wales, according to a Copy imparted to me by a worshipful friend and learned Antiquary, as seeming far more exact than that of Doctor powel's. (8) Anglesey the chiefest, is separated from the main Land with the River 〈◊〉, wherein at Aberfraw was the Prince's Court, now a mean village. In this Island is a fair Town called Beaumarish, and a common passage to Ireland at Caergy●i, in English, Holly-head. (9) Aruon, the second part of North-Wales, is now called Carnaruonshire, the strongest Country within that Principality, giving place to none for fertility of the ground, of for plenty of Wood-Castle, Fish, and Fowl, etc. Here are the Towns of Ca●●naruon, in old time called Caer-Segon●, and Bangor the Bishops See, with diverse other ancient Castles, and places of memory. This portion hath on the North, the Sea and Moena●; upon the East and Southeast, the River 〈◊〉, which divideth it from Denbighshire: and on the South-west is separated from Merioneth, by Rivers, Mountains, and Meres. (10) Merioneth was the third part of Gwyneth, and keepeth the name till this day: is full of hills, and much noted for the resort of people that repair thither to take Herting. Upon the North it hath Aruon and Denbigh-land; upon the South, Caerdigan-shire; and upon the East, Montgomery-shire, heretofore part of Powys. In this County standeth the Town of Harleth, and a great Lake called Ilyn Tegyd. This Country is likewise full of Cattle, Fowle, and Fish, and hath in it great store of red Deer and Roes, but there is much scarcity of Corne. (11) Y Beruedhwlad was the fourth part of Gwyneth, and may be called in English, The middle Country: is enclosed with hills, on the East, West, and South-parts, and with the Sea Northward. It is plentiful of Cattle, Fish, and Fowl, as also of Corn: and is divided in the midst with the River Clwyd, to which run a number of other Rivers from the hills. In this part is Dyffryn Clwyd, the fairest Valley within Wales, containing eighteen miles in length, and seven in breadth. In which is the Town and Castle of Ruthlan, near unto the Sea; and not far thence, S. Assaph, an Episcopal seat, between the Rivers Clwyd and Elwy. Herein stands the fair Town and goodly Castle of Denbigh, situated upon a Rock, the greatest Market-town of North-Wales: and from thence is seen the Town and Castle of Ruthyn, fair for prospect, and fruitful for site. This part of North-Wales, hath the Sea upon the North; Dee toward the East; Aruon, the River Conwey, and Merionyth upon the West; and the Country then called Powys, upon the South. And these were the Meres and bounds of the four parts of Venedotia, Gwyneth, or North-Wales. (12) The second Talaith or Kingdom, was Mathraval or Powys. To this belonged the Country of Powys, and the Land between Wye and Severne. It had South-Wales upon the South and West, with the Rivers Wye and Tywy, and other Meres: upon the North, Gwyneth; and upon the East, the Marches of England, from Chester to Wye, a little above Hereford. This part was divided into Powis Vadoc, Powis between Wye and Severne, and Powis Wenwynwyn In Powis Vadoc is the Castle of Holt in Bromefeild, and the Castle of Chirke in Chirkeland; the Castle likewise of Whittington; and Lordship of Oswestrie, with others. (13) The second part of Powis, or the Territory belonging to Mathraval, is Powis between Wye and Severne, (or Gwy and Hauren) whereof some is at this day in Montgomery-shire, some in Radnor-shire, and some in Brecknockshire; and among sundry other, hath these Towns and Castles following. Montgomery: The Castle of Clyn: The Town of Knighton: The Castle of Cymaron: Presteyn: The Town and Castle of Radnor, called in Welsh, Maesyvet, which is at this day the Shire-Towne: The Town of Kinton, and the Castle of Huntingdon. (14) The third part belonging to Mathranal (chief seat of Powys, after the Welsh were driven from Pengwern or Shrewsburie) was Powys Wenwynwyn; a Country full of Woods, Hills, and Rivers, having in it among others, the Towns of Welshpoole, Newtowne, Machinhaeth Arustly was anciently in this part, but afterward it came to the Princes of Gwyneth. This may suffice, for the description of that which in old time was called Gwyneth and Powys. (15) It now remaineth that we describe the last kingdom of Wales, called Demetia, Deheubarth, or the Talaith of Dinevowr, which although it was the greatest, yet was it not the best, because it was much molested with Flemings and Normans, and for that also diverse parts thereof would not obey their Prince, as in Gwent, and in Morganw●. (16) This was divided into six parts, of which Caerdigan was the first, and is a Champion Country, without much wood. It hath Merionyth-shire on the North: part of Powys upon the East: Carmarden-shire and Pembrokeshire, with the River Tiu●, upon the South: and upon the West, the Irish Sea. In this part is the Town of Caerdigan upon Tiu●, not far from the Sea; as also the Town of Aberstwyth upon the River Istwyth; and Lhanbadarnevowr, which in times past was a great Sanctuary: there were also many Castles; as of Stratneyrie, of Walter, of Lhanrysted, of Dyuer●h, and of Aber Roydell, etc. (17) The second part was called Dyvet, and at this day Penbrokeshire. It hath upon the North and West, the Irish Sea; upon the East, Carmarden-shire; and upon the South, Severne. There are in it sundry Towns and Havens: among others, these: Penbroke: Tenby: Hereford West, with the goodly and many branched Haven of Milford, called in Welsh, Aberdangledhett: S. David's, or Meneui●, which is the chiefest See in Wales: Fiscard, called Aberwayn: and Newport, named Tresdreth. (18) The third part was Caermardenshire, which is a Country accounted the strongest part of all South-Wales: as that which is full of high Mountains, great Woods, and fair Rivers. (19) The fourth, called Morganwe, now Glamorgan-shire, hath on the South, the Severne Sea, which divideth it from Devonshire and Cornwall: upon the West and Northwest, Carmarden-shire: upon the North-east, Breckneck-shire; and upon the East, Monmouth-shire. (20) The fifth, now called Gwent, and in Monmouth-shire, hath in it the ancient City of Caerlbeon upon Vske. There are also diverse Towns and Castles, Chepstow, Glynstrygul, R●s, Tynterne upon the River Wye, etc. This is a fair and fertile Country. It hath on the West, Glamorgan and Brecknock-shires: upon the North, Hereford-shire: upon the East, Gloucestershire: with the River Wye and the River Severne upon the South and Southeast. (21) The last is Brecknockshire, for the most part full of Mountains, Woods, and Rivers. This Country is both great and large, being full of fair plains and valleys for Corn: it hath plenty of the thick Woods, Forests, and Parks. It is full also of clear and deep Rivers, of which Severne is the chiefest; although there be other fair Rivers, as Vske and the like. (22) Thus far concerning the ancient Welsh division by Talaiths: but the present division distributeth them more compendiously into two Countries, and twelve Shires, enacted so by Parliament under King Henry the eight. The Countries are North-Wales and South-Wales, which have shared, and as it were devoured between them, all Powysland; each of which Countries contains six Shires. North-Wales. Anglesey. Ca●●●aruon. Merionyth. Denbigh. Flint. Montgomery South-Wales. Caerdigan. Pembroke. Carmarden. Glamorgan. Brecknocks. Radn●r. PEMBROKESHIRE. CHAPTER II. PEMBROKESHIRE, the furthest Promontory of all West-Wales, lieth parted on the North from Cardigan-shire with the River's Ty●y and Keach; and on the East is confronted by Caermardenshire; the South and West shooting far into the Irish Seas, is with the same altogether washed. (2) The form thereof is longer than it is broad; for from S: 〈◊〉 South-point to Cardigan-bridge in the North, are twentie-sixe miles; the Eastern Landenie to S. David's point in the West, are twenty miles; the whole in circumference is ninety three miles. (3) The Air is passing temperate, by the report of Giraldus, who confirmeth his reason from the site of Ireland, against which it butteth, and so near adjoined, that King Rufus thought it possible to make a Bridge of his Ships over the Sea, whereby he might pass to Ireland on foot. (4) Anciently it was possessed by the Demetia, further branched into Cardigan and Caermarden-shires, as in that County hath been said, and in the Saxons Conquest and Heptarchte, by the Britaines forced into those parts for refuge, whither Henry the first, and third of the Normans King, sent certain Flemings (whose Country was overwhelmed with the breaking 〈◊〉 of the Seas) to inhabit the maritine Tract called Rosse, lying West upon the River Dougledye. Thess Dutchmen (saith Giraldus) were a strong and stout Nation, enured to Wars, and accustomed to seek gain by Clothing, Traffic, and Tillage, and ever ready for the Field to fight it out: adding withal, that they were most loyal to the English, and most faithful to the Englishmen. Whereupon Malmesbury writeth thus: Many a time did King William Rufus assail the Welsh, but ever in vain: which is to be wondered at, considering his other fortunate success. But (saith he) it may be the unevenness of the ground, and sharpness of the air, that maintained their courage, and impeached his valour: which to redress, King Henry his brother found means; for those Flemings, who in regard of his mother's kindred by the father's side, sorely pestered and endamaged the English, he sent into Wales, both to purge and disburden his own Kingdom, and to quell and keep back the courage of his enemies. These men here seated, deceived not his expectation, but so carried themselves in his quarrel, that they seldom communicated with their neighbours, so that to this day they speak not the Language, and the Country is yet called Little England beyond Wales. (5) The commodities of this Shire are Corn, Cattle, Sea-Fish, and Fowl, and in Giraldus his days of saleable Wines, the havens being so commodious for Ships arrivage: such is that at Tenby, and Milford, an Haven of such capacity, that sixteen Creeks, five Bays, and thirteen Roads, known all by several names, are therein contained, where Henry of Richmond, of most happy memory arrived with signal hopes of England's freedom from under the government of an usurping Tyrant. (6) near unto this is Pembroke the Shire-Towne seated, more ancient in show than it is in years, and more houses without Inhabitants, than I saw in any one City throughout my survey. It is walled long-wise, and them but indifferent for repair, containing in circuit eight hundred and fourscore pases, having three Gates of passage, and at the West end a large Castle, and locked-causey, that leads over the water to the decayed Priory of Monton. The site of this Town is in the degree of Longitude, as Mercator doth measure, 14. and 55. minutes, and the elevation from the North-pole in the degree of Latitude 52. (7) A City as barren is old Saint David's, neither clad with Woods, nor garnished with Rivers, nor beautified with Fields, nor adorned with Meadows, but lieth always open both to wind and storms. Yet hath it been a Nursery to holy men; for herein lived Calph●●rnius, a Britain Priest, whose wife was Concha, sister to Saint Martin, and both of them the parents of Saint Patrick the Apostle of Ireland. Deus a most religious Bishop, made this an archiepiscopal See, removed from Is●a Legionum. This the Britain's call Tuy Dewy, the house of Devi; we Saint David's: a City with few Inhabitants; yet hath it a fair Cathedral Church, dedicated to Saint Andrew and David, in the midst of whose Choir lieth entombed Edmund Earl of Richmond, father to King Henry the seventh: whose Monument (as the Prebends told me) spared their Church from other defacements, when all went down under the hammers of King Henry the eight. About this is a fair wall, and the Bishop's Palace all of free stone, a goodly house I assure you, and of great receipt, whose uncovered tops cause the curious works in the walls daily to weep, and them to fear their downfall ere long. (8) But Monton the Priory, and S. Dogmels, places of devout piety erected in this County, found not the like favour, when the commission of their dissolutions came down against them, and the axes of destruction cut down the props of their walls. RADNOR-SHIRE. CHAPTER III. RADNOR-SHIRE lieth bordered upon the North with the County Monmouth; upon the East toucheth Shropshire and Herefordshire: the Rivers Clarwen and Wye divide it from Breknock in the South: and the West part doth shorten point-wise into Caerdigan-shire. (2) The form thereof is in proportion triangle, every side almost containing a like distance: for from West to North are twenty miles; from North to South, twenty two miles; and from South to West are twenty four miles: the whole in circumference extending to fourscore and ten miles. (3) The Air thereof is sharp and cold (as most of Wales is) for that the snow lieth and lasteth long unmelted under those shadowing high Hills and over-hanging Rocks. (4) The Soil is hungry, though not barren, and that in the East and South the best: the other parts are rough and churlish, and hardly bettered by painful labour; so that the riches of the North and West consisteth chiefly in the brood of cattle. (5) Anciently this County was possessed by the Silureses, a 〈◊〉 people, and great withstanders of the Romans impositions, who had not only them to fight against, 〈◊〉 withal the unaccessible Mountains, wherewith this Shire is so overpressed and burdened, 〈◊〉 many times I feared to look down from the hanging Rocks, whereunder I passed into those deeps and dark dales, seeming to me an entrance into Limbo. Among these (as say our Historians) that hateful Prince to God and Man, Vortiger, his Country's scourge, and last Monarch of the British blood, by fire from Heaven was consumed with his incestuous wife, for whom 〈◊〉 nameth the Country where 〈◊〉 Castle stood, Guartiger-Maur, of whose rubbish the Castle Guthremion was raised, as some are of opinion▪ Yet they of North-Wales will have his destruction and castle to stand in their parts ●eere unto Beth-Kelleck, whereof we will further speak in the relation of his life. Fatal was this place also to Llewellin the last Prince of the British Race, who being betrayed by the men of Duelth, fled into those vast Mountains of Radnor, where by Adam Francton he was slain, and his head (crowned with Iuy) set upon the Tower of London. Places most worthy of note in this Shire, are as ensueth: The first is Radnor, from whom the County receiveth her Name, anciently Magi, where the Commander of the Pacensian Regiment lay, and thought to be the Magnos in Antonine the emperor's Survey. This Town is pleasantly seated under a hill, whereon standeth mounted a large & strong Castle, from whose Bulwark a Trench is drawn along the West of the Town, whereon a wall of stone was once raised, as by the remains in many places appeareth. This Trench doth likewise inverge her West side so far as the River, but after is no more seen: whose Graduation is observed to have the Pole elevated for Latitude 52. degrees, and 45 minutes; and for Longitude, from the first point of the West set by Mercator 17. degrees and one minute. Presiayn for beauteous building is the best in this Shire a Town of Commerce, wonderfully frequented, and that very lately▪ Next is Knighton, a Market-town likewise, under which is seen the Clawdh-Offa, or 〈…〉 whose tract for a spa●e I 〈…〉 along the edge of the Mountain; which was a bound 〈…〉 the Welsh from the English, by the Mercian King Offa: and by Egbert the Monarch a Law 〈◊〉, by the instigation of his Wife, that it should be present death for the Welsh to pass over the same, as john Beaver the Monk of Westminster reporteth: and the like under Harald, as joha of Salisbury writeth; wherein it was ordained, that what Welshman soever should be found with any weapon on this side of that Limit, which was Offaes' Ditch, should have his right hand cut off by the King's Officers. The fourth place for account is Raihader Gowy, who besides the great fall of Wye with a continual noise, hath her Markets there kept upon the Sabbath, which I there observed, and here note for an offence. (7) Many Rivers arise and run thorough this Shire, which were it not that the hills so cluster together, might make the soil both fertile and fat. Such are Teme, Lugier, Ithon, Clowdok, Dulas, Comarton, Somegill, Guithel, Arro, Machaway, Edway, Hawye, Eland, Clarwen and Wye, besides other Loughs that stand betwixt the hills. This Shire is divided into six Hundreds, wherein are seated three Forests, four Market-towns, six Castles, and fifty two Parish-Chrches. BREKNOCK-SHIRE. CHAPTER four BREKNOCK-SHIRE, in the British language Brechineau, (so called, as the Welshmen relate, of a Prince named Brechanius, the father of an holy offspring, whose twenty four daughters were all of them Saints) is a County neither very large, not greatly to be praised or disliked of, whose bounds upon the North is parted from Radnor with the Rivers Clarwen and Wye: the West lieth butted upon by Cardigan and Caermarden-shires: the South is confined by Glamorgan; and the East with Monmouth and Radnor-shire, is wholly bound. (2) The length of this Shire from North to South, betwixt Llanuth● and Istradgunies, are twenty eight English miles; and her breadth from East to West, extended betwixt Fentrisso and E●ywell, are twenty miles; the whole in circumference, about one hundred and two miles. This County is full of hills, and uneven for travel, which on the South part mount in such height, that as Giraldus hath written, They make the air much colder, and defend the Country from the excessive heat of the Sun, whereby acertaine natural whole 〈◊〉 of air maketh it most temperate: and on the East side, the Mountains of Edgar and Ewias do as ● were fore-fence the same. Among which, there arise and run so many fruit springs that their valleys are thereby made most fertile, yielding in plenty both Corn and Grass. (4) The ancient Inhabitants and possessors of this Shire, with the rest in this South Tract, were the Silureses, much spoken of, and gr●at opposites to the Romans, whose Countries were first made subject by julius Froutinus, who besides the valour of the enemy, had to struggle with the Mountains and Straits, as Tacitus tells us; neither any more hard, we may well say, then them of this Shire; whereof one in the South, and three miles from Breknock, is of such height and operation, as is uncredible: and were it not that I have witness to affirm what I shall speak, I should blush to let the report thereof pass from my pen: In my perambulations in these parts, remaining in Breknock to observe the site of that Town, the Aldermen or chief Seniors thereof regarding my pains, with friendly and courteous entertainments at my departure, no less than eight of them, that had been Bailiffs of the Town, came to visit me; where they reported upon their credit and trials, that from the top of that hill, in the Welsh called Mounch-denny, or Cadier Arthur, they had oftentimes cast from them, and down the North-East Rock, their Cloaks, Hats, and Staffs, which notwithstanding would never fall, but were with the air and wind still returned back, and blown up: neither, said they, will any thing descend from that Cliff being so cast, unless it be stone or some metalline substance: affirming the cause to be the Clouds, which are seen to rack much lower than the top of that Hill. As strange tales are told of the Mere Llynsavathan, two miles by East from Breknock, which at the breaking of her frozen I●e, maketh a fearful sound like unto thunder. In which place, as is reported, sometimes stood affair City, which was swallowed up in an Earthquake, and resigned her stonewalls unto this deep and 〈◊〉 water: whither unto this day leadeth all the ways in this Shire: which, as le●●●ed Cambdin●●●ctureth ●●ctureth, might be that Loventrium, which Ptolemy in this tract placeth; and the most confirmed 〈…〉 name adjoining, being also called Levenny, which River also passeth through this 〈…〉 the same stream, and no greater than wherewith she first entered in. (5) The Towns for Commerce, are Hay, Bealt, and Breknock, two of them unfortunate of their former greatness, whom wars and sedition have defaced a● lest down. Hay upon Wye and Dulas, pleasant for situation, in the rebellion of Owen Glendower● 〈◊〉 was diswalled, depopulated, and burnt, in whose foundations for new repairs, many Roman Coins have been found; and thereby thought to be the seat of their Legions: and Buelth, now Bealt, though of good frequency, yet not so great as when Ptolemie observed her position for graduation, who calleth it Buleum Silurum, neither when it with the Country was possessed by Aurelius Ambrose, by whose permission Pascentius the son of Vortiger ruled all, as Ninius writeth; nor yet as of later times, when Leolin the last Prince of the Britain's, was therein betrayed and slain. (6) Breknock the Shire-Towne, for buildings and beauty retaineth a better regard, whose walls in Ouall-wise are both strong and of good repair, having three Gates for entrance, with ten Towers for defence, and is in circuit six hundred and fortiepaces about, upon whose west part a most sumptuous and stately Castle is seated, the like whereof is not commonly seen, whose decays approaching do increase her ruins daily, and in the end is feared will be her fall▪ This Town is seated upon the meeting of two Rivers, Houthy and Vske, whose yearly government is committed to two Bailiffs, fifteen Aldermen, two Chamberlains, two Constables a Town-clerk, and two Sergeants their Attendants: having the Poles elevation in 52▪ 21. minutes of Latitude, and for Longitude is placed in the 16. and 32. minutes, as the Mathematicians do measure them. (7) This Shire is strengthened with ●ine Castles, divided into six Hundreds, wherein are seated three Market-towns, and fifty 〈◊〉 Parish-Churches. CARDIGAN-SHIRE. CHAPTER V. CARDIGAN-SHIRE, (in the Welsh called Sire Aber-tivi) is parted on the North from Merioneth-shire with the River Dovi; by the Plinillimon hills from Montgomery-shire in part of her East; and the rest from Breknock-shire, with the water Towy; and with Tyvy altogether on the South from Caermardenshire: the West is wholly washed with the Irish Sea. (2) The form thereof is horne-like, bowing compass, long and narrow, and growing wider still towards the North: so that from Cardigan, the Shire-Towne and uttermost point: in the South, unto the River Dovi, her farthest North bounder, are thirty two miles: and from the head of Carwen in the East, to Aberysthwyth on her West, the broadest part in the Shire, are only fifteen: the whole in circumference is one hundred and three miles. (3) The Air is open and somewhat piercing; the soil is hilly, and Wales-like) uneven: yet more plain and champion towards the Sea, then in the East or North of the Land. For besides that great and high hill called Plinil●●on, a continual range of lesser doth shoot along, yielding in their valleys both goodly rich Pastures, and very large Pools, which being assisted with Springs from the Rocks, do branch themselves, as veins in the bod● 〈◊〉 make fruitful their passages unto the Sea. In Tyvy one of these, as Giraldus 〈…〉 Beaver hath been found, a creature living both by land and water, whose stones the 〈…〉 in great price. His forefeet are like unto a dog, but the hinder whole skin, as is the 〈…〉 the dogge-like serve him on shore for to run; and the Goose-like as Oraes' give him swift 〈◊〉 in swimming: this tail broad and gristly, he useth as a stern, wherewith on the sudden 〈◊〉 divert his swift floating course. But this creature in these parts a long time hath not been seen, whose room we may well say the Salmon hath possessed, who still coveting into fresh water Rivers, at their downright falls useth this policy: He bendeth himself backward, and taketh his tail in his mouth, and with all his strength unloosing his circle on the sudden (as a lath let go) mounteth up before the fall of the stream; whereupon such water-falles are called the Salmon's leap: and in these Rivers many such Salmon are caught. (4) The commodities of this Shire chiefly consist in Cattle, Sea-sowle, and Fish; Corn sufficient, but of Woods some scarcity: and at the head of Istwyd are certain veins of Lead, a merchandise of no mean regard or wealth. (5) The ancient people that possessed this Province, were the Dimetae, by Ptolemie branched thorough the Tracts of Caermarden, Pembroke, and this Shire; who in their struggle against the Romans, did not a little rely upon Caractacus their most warlike King, (from whose name, though unlikely, some will have the Shire called Cardigan) yet lastly felt the fortune of subjection with the rest, when julius Frontinus warred with these Mountains. Scarce had the Normans settled their Kingdom in Britain, but that they assailed this County, as well to enjoy so far a Possession, as to secure those Seas from any invasion against them: so that Rufus first wrested from the Welshmen the maritime Coasts, and Henry the first gave the whole County to Gilbert the 〈◊〉. (6) This Gi●bert fortified 〈◊〉 the Shire-Towne, with a Wall and strong Castle, whose aged lineaments do to this day 〈…〉 industry both of nature and Art: for the Town is seated upon a steep bank, her South 〈◊〉 guarded with the deep River Tyny, and passable no way but by a bridge under the Castle. They 〈◊〉 taketh the advantage of the rising rocks, and circulate the Town even round about. The Castle is ●●●gher built upon a Rock, both spacious and fair, had not storms impaired her beauty, and time 〈◊〉 her carcase a very Anatomy. The walls range as thou seest, and are indifferent for repair, having three ways for entrance, and contain in compass six hundred and fourscore pases: whose position for Latitude is set in the degree 52. 33 minutes from the North-pole, and for Longitude from the first West-point by Mercator, in the degree 15. and 10. minutes. (7) This Shire, as it is little in circuit, so accordingly is besprinkled with Townships, whereof four only have the trade of Markets: neither find I other remembrance of religious foundations, but at Cardigan, Istradfleet, and at Llan-Badern-Vaur, where sometimes was seated an Episcopal See, which (as Hoveden writeth) was decayed many years since, when the people had wickedly slain their Pastor. And yet Llan-devi-brevi, built, and so called in memory of the most famous David Bishop of Meneura, was in great esteem, where in a frequent Synod there holden, he refuted the Pelagian Heresy, sprung up again in Britain, both by the authority of holy Scripture, and also by miracle, as is reported, while the earth whereon he stood and preached, rose up unto a certain height under his feet▪ (8) The Shires division, for businesses belonging either to the Crown or Commonwealth, is into five Hundreds, wherein are seated for 〈…〉, and sixty four Parish-Churches for Gods divine and daily service. CAERMARDENSHIRE. CHAPTER VI. CAERMARDENSHIRE, so called from the chief Town Caermarden, lieth bordered upon the North with Cardigan-shire; upon her East, by Brecknock and Glamorgan-shires; upon the South, with a Bay of the British Seas; and upon the West with Pembrokeshire. (2) The form of this County is long, and shooteth itself from the South-west into the North and by-East, betwixt whose furthest bounds are thirty five English miles, and in her broadest part twenty miles; the whole in circumferance about one hundred and two miles. (3) This Shire is not altogether so pestered with hills as her bordering neighbours are: and those that she hath, neither so high nor so thick, and therefore is better for Corn and Pasturage, yea and in Woods also, so that for victuals this County is very well stored, which the stomach doth as well digest, the air being wholesome, temperate, and pleasing▪ (4) Anciently these parts were possessed by the Di●●●tree, as Ptolemie, Gildas, and Ninius do name them: though Pliny holds opinion that they were part of the Silureses, with whom no doubt they were subdued to the Romans yoke by 〈…〉, when he struggled with the rocky hills in those Southern parts And this County is 〈…〉 by Writers to be the very strength of South Wales. In the West thereof, at Kilman●● (as it 〈◊〉 seem) their Legions kept, where lately an earthen Po● hoarded with store of 〈◊〉 Coins, was by the spade digged up, being stamped upon embased silver, from the time of Co●●●odus unto the first Tribuneship of Gordian the third, which fell in the year of Christ two hundred ●●●tie three: and amongst these were the Coins of Heluins Pertinax, Marcu● Opellius, Antonius Di●●●menianus, julius Verus Maximus, the son of Maximu●, of Calius Balbinus, of Clodius Pupienus, of Aquilta Senera, the wife of Helingaba●●, and of Sall-Barbia Orbi●na, pieces rarely found. (5) The commodities of this Shire chiefly consist in Cattle, Pit-coale, Fowl, and Sea-fish, whereof the Salmon is common among them, and that of such greatness and plenty, as no place is better furnished therewith then the Shire-Towne Caermarden is. (6) Which Town by Ptolemie is called Maridunum; by Antonius the Emperor, M●ridunum; by the Britain's, Caer-fridhin; and by us, Caermarden. It is pleasantly seated upon the South-west side of the River Tovy, that runneth thorough the midst of this Shire, and falleth South from hence into the British Sea, where before times was a convenient Haven for Ships 〈◊〉, but now is sore pestered with Sands and Shelves: notwithstanding some small Vessels ascend up the River, even unto the Bridge of this Town, which is fairly built of freestone. And over the same, upon a hanging Rock, standeth a very large Castle, from whose stone-wall another intermingled with brick rangeth about the Town, being in circuit one thousand and four hundred pases. The Inhabitants of this place do not a little glory of their Merlin who (at they say) was therein borne, the son of a bad Angel, or of an Incubus spirit, the 〈◊〉 great Apollo, whom Geffrey ap Arthur would rank with the South saying Seer, or rathe● 〈◊〉 true Prophets themselves; being none other than a mere Seducer and fantastical Wizard. 〈◊〉 howsoever Alani de Insulis in his Commentaries hath labourered to unlock those dark and hidden 〈◊〉, wherewith his book is pestered and full, yet was it not without cause forbid the reading by 〈◊〉 Council of Trent, as vain, and not worthy of countenance or credit. At the entrance of the Normans, this Town was brought vn●● their obedience, and for a long time was distressed with the calamities of war, yet afterwards it is made by the English Princes the Chaucdry and Exchequer for all South-Wales: and at this day is yearly governed by a Mayor, who ever after is an Alderman and justice of the Peace, two Sheriffs elected out of sixteen Burgesses, all of them in scarlet, a Sword-bearer, a Town-clerk, and two Sergeants with Maces: from whence the Pole is raised 52. degrees 15. minutes in Latitude, and for Longitude is in the degree 15. and 30. minutes from the first point in the West, according to Mercator. (7) East from this place are the ruins of Carreg-Castle, which stood mounted on a high hill, under the which many vaults and spacious Caves far into the ground are seen, wherein is thought the people unable to fight, were therein secured in time of their Wars. Where also is a Well (take the report from Giraldus, who writeth it) that in this place twice in four and twenty hours ebbing, and twice flowing, resembleth the unstable motions of the main Sea. GLAMORGAN-SHIRE. CHAPTER VII. GLAMORGAN-SHIRE, as some think, named from Prince Morgan the possessor thereof, or according to others, is taken from Morgan an Abbey, founded by William Earl of Gloucester, upon the Sea-shoare in the South of this Shire, lieth bounded upon that part altogether with the British Sea; the West by Loghor, is parted from Caermardenshire; the North butteth upon the County of Brekn●ck; and the East by Remney is divided from Monmouth. (2) The form of this Shire groweth still wider from her West-point, spreaking her broadest touch in the East, betwixt which extremes I find by measure to be well-near forty English miles, and from North to South, not altogether twenty miles: the whole in circumference, about one hundred and twelve miles. (3) The air is temperate, and gives mo●●●ntent to the mind, than the soil doth fruit or ease unto Travellers. The hills being high and 〈◊〉, which from the North notwithstanding are lessened as it were by degrees; and towards 〈◊〉 Seacoasts, the Country becometh somewhat plain, which part is the best both for plentie●● Graine, and populous of Inhabitants. The rest all Mountain, is replenished with 〈◊〉 which is the best means unto wealth that this Shire doth afford; upon whose Hills you may ●●hold whole Herds of them feeding; and from whose Rocks, most clear springing waters 〈◊〉 the valleys trickling, which sportingly do pass with a most pleasant sound, and did not a little 〈◊〉 my wearied spirits among those vast Mountains, employed in their search: whose infancy at first admitted an easy step over; but grown unto strength, more boldly forbade me such passage, and with a more stern countenance held on their journey unto the British Seas: and Tave among these is accounted for a chief. (4) Upon whose fall, and East-banke, the fairest Town of all South-Wales is seated the 〈◊〉 Caerdid, the English Caerdiffe, which Fitzhaimon fortified with a Wall and Castle, in the reign of King Rufus, when he and his Norman Knights had overcome Rhese the Prince of these parts, and thrust out jestine from his lawful possession. This Town he made his own Seat and Court of justice, enjoining his Consorts to give aid to this honour, and to hold their portions in vassalage of him. Strong was the Castle, as by the trust therein reposed may well appear, where the youngest brother Beautlark kept captive the eldest Curthose, both of them sons to the Conqueror, the space of twenty six years. This Castle is large, and in good repair, whence the Town-wall went both South and East to the River's side, thorough which, four Gates enter into the four winds, and contain in compass nine hundred and twenty pases; and along the River (a sure defence) upon her West side, three hundred more; so that the Town containeth in circuit twelve hundred and fourscore pases. But as the Tave is a friend to the Town, in making a Key for arrivage of shipping; so is she a foe to S. Mary's Church in the South, with undermining her foundations, and threatening her fall. The Town is governed by a Mayor, yearly elected out of twelve Aldermen, assisted with other twelve Burgesses, a Town-clerk, four Constable's, and two Sergeants with Maces: whose site is observed from the North-star to lie in the degree of Latitude, 51. and 49. scruples; and from the first point in the West, 16. and 53 scrup●●●. (5) In the same graduation almost is sited the ●itie Landaf, wherein is a Castle and Cathedral Church, dedicated to S. Telean, Bishop of the same, without any other memorable matter worthy the speaking of. (6) of●●aldus ●●aldus, who affirmeth that in a Rock or Cliff upon the Sea side, and Island Barry, lying near the South-●●st point of this County, is beard out of a little Chink (let him take heed what he saith) the noise as it 〈◊〉 of Smiths at their work; one whiles the blowing of Bellowes to increase the heat, than the strokes of the Hammer, and sound of the 〈◊〉; sometimes the noise of the Grindstone in grinding of Iron tools; then the hissing sparks of Steele-gads, as they fly from their beating, with the puffing noise of flames in a Furnace. And whether this is the place whereof Clemens Alexandrinus speaketh, I determine not; where in his writings he hath these words: They that have recorded Histories (saith he) do say that in the I'll of Britain, there is a certain Hole or Ca●e under the bottom of an Hill, and on the top thereof a gaping Chink, into the which when the wind is gathered, and tossed to and fro● in the womb or concavity thereof, there is heard above, a sound of Cymbals: for the wind being driven back from his hole, is forced to make a loud sound at her vent. (7) More Westward from hence, upon the River Ogmore, and near unto Newton, in a sandy plain about an hundred pases from Severne, there springeth a Well, though not of the clearest water, where at the flowing and fullness of the Sea, can hardly any water be gotten; but at the ebb and fall of tide it walloweth up amain. The cause may be, as Polybius reports of the like at Cadies; Wherein the windy air, when it is deprived of his wont issues, forcibly returneth, shutting and stopping up the passages and veins of the Spring, whereby 〈◊〉 waters are kept in. But chose, when the surface thereof is void and empty of water, the vein●● of the Source or Spring are unstopped and set free, which then boileth up in great abundance. (8) And upon the same shore more 〈◊〉 and by West, on the top of a hill called Minyd-Margan, is erected a Monument inscribed wit●● strange Character, and as strange a conceit held thereof by the by-dwellers, whose opinions are possessed, that if any man read the same, he shall shortly after die. This Shire, as it is the furthest 〈◊〉 of South-Wales, and lay open to foreign invasion; so was is fortified with twentie-five strong. Castles, whereof times and storms have devoured the most: such were Barry, Saint Doneitis, Den●●●owis, Morlashe, Menes●e, Logho●, Llanddeny, Llanquian, Oxwich, Oystermouth, Ognior, Pile, Porkery, Pe●●arth, Winston, Newcastle, Caerfly, Coche, Peullys, 〈◊〉, Kenfeage, Tallance, Treer and Cothy. Neither was the County so ill seated for sufficiency of life, or barren of grain, but that therein were planted places for divine piety: such were Neath, Margan, and Caerdif, besides the Episcopal See of Landa●: which last still remaineth; the other three suppressed among the fall of their like, under King Henry the eight. MONMOUTH-SHIRE. CHAPTER VIII. MONMOUTH-SHIRE, from Monmouth Town, and that from Mounowe-water bearing name, is altogether enclosed on the North, and is separated from Hereford-shire with the same River, upon the East both it and Wye divides this County from Gloucestershire. The Southside wholly is washed by the Severne Sea; and some of her West part by Rempney is parted from Glamorgan, and the rest lieth bordered upon by Breknock-shire. (2) The form thereof is Scallop-wise, both long and broad, shooting her North point to Llantony, and her South to the fall of Rempney, betwixt which two are twenty four English miles: and from Chepstowe East, to Blanagwent West, are not altogether nineteen miles: the whole in circuit draweth somewhat near to seventy seven miles. (3) The Air is temperate, healthful an● 〈◊〉, the soil is hilly, woody and rich, all places fruitful, but no place barren. The Hills are 〈◊〉 upon by Cattle and Sheep, the Valleys are laden with Corn and Grass, never ungrateful of 〈◊〉 bandmans' pains, nor makes frustrate his hope of expected increase; whose springs abundantly ●sing in this County with many streams, do fatten the soil even from side to side. (4) Anciently the Sil●●es inhabited this Shire, whose chief City by the Emperor Antonine is named Venta Silarum, by the Welsh Caer-went, and was by Tath● the British Saint, made an Academi●, and a divine place for worship. So like wise Caerlion now, once Isca, was, where the second Roman Legion called Augusta lay, as by their Coins, Altars, Tables, and Inscriptions there found, and daily therein digged up, doth evidently appear. By the report of Giraldus, in this City was the Court of great Arthur, whither the Roman Ambassadors resorted unto him, and as Alexander Elsebinsis writeth, therein was a School of two hundred Philosophers, skilful in Astronomy and other Arts. Which is the more credible, for that A●phibalus, S. Alban instructor, was therein borne, and julius and Aaron, two noble Protomartyrs of great Britain, in this Citiereceived the Crown of Martyrdom, where their bodies were also interred. But as all things find their fatal period, so this City for beauty, circuit, and magnifical respect is laid in the ruins of her own decay; neither may any more lament the loss of glory than Munmouths' Castle, which captive-like doth yield to conquering Time. Her downcast stones from those lofty turrets, do show what beauty once it bore, standing mounted round in compass, and within her walls another mount, whereon a Tower of great height and strength is built, which was the birthplace of our Conquering Henry, the great Triumpher over France, but now decayed, and from a Princely Castle, is become no better than a regardless Cottage. In this Town a beautiful Church built with three Isles is remaining, and at the East end a most curiously built (but now decayed) Church stands, called the Monks- 〈◊〉 In the Monastery whereof, our great Antiquary Geffrey, surnamed Munmouth, and Ap 〈◊〉 his History of Great Britaine● whose pains as they were both learned and great, so 〈◊〉 bred great pains among the learned both to defend and to disprove. The Town's situation is pleasant and good, seated betwixt the Rivers Monnowe and Wye: three Gates yet stand, besides that Tower or Locke of the Bridge, and a Trench or tract of wall running betwixt the ●on each side down to the River, containing in circuit about eight hundred paces. The Town is 〈◊〉 good repair, and well frequented, governed by a Mayor, two Bailiffs, fifteen Common Councillors, a Town-clerk, and two Sergeants for their Attendance. It is in Latitude removed from the Equator 52. degrees and 8. minutes, and from the West point of Longitude is set in the degree 17. 36. minutes. Religious Houses erected and suppressed in this Shire, for greatest account have been in C●…●…on, Chepstow, Gold-cliffe, Munmouth and Llantony; which last stood so solitary, and among hills, that the Sun was not seen to shine there, but only betwixt the hours of one and three. MOUNTGOMERYSHIRE CHAPTER IX. MOUNTGOMERYSHIRE, in the British speech called 〈◊〉, and that of the principal Town Mountgomery, lieth bounded upon the North with Denbighshire, upon the East with Shrop-shire, on the South with Ra●●or and Cardigan-shires, and on the West with Merioneth-shire. (2) In form it somewhat resembleth a Pear or Pineapple, as it were growing out of the West, and rising thence with many high Hills and plentiful Spring● which water and make fruitful the Soil query where▪ whose searching rilles with a longing desire haste ever forward to find an increase, and to 〈◊〉 thei● growth into a bigger body whereof the S●uerne is the chief and the second River in the Land: whose head rising from the spired mountain Plymillimon, runneth not far without the receipts of other riuer●●● into her stream, and with many wings doth spore herself thorough all the East part of this Shire. (3) That this River took her name from 〈◊〉, the beautiful 〈◊〉 daughter of 〈◊〉 begotten out of wedlock upon Estrildi● the daughter of 〈◊〉 the 〈◊〉 King, ●●●rinuaded this Land, and both of them drowned in this River by Guen●●lena King 〈◊〉 ●●●uiuing widow: let 〈◊〉 relate, and Poets enlarge, whereof one among them in good account, thus writeth: — In 〈◊〉 pracipitatur Abren, Nomen Abren 〈◊〉 de Virgin, 〈…〉 Into this stream fair Abren headlong cast, Gave name of Abren to those waters waste, Corruptly called Sabrina now at last. (4) This River maketh the East part of this Shire for fruitfulness to be compared with most of the Land, and to exceed any other Shire in Wales: the West side is more hilly and less inhabited, yet surely those mountains breed innumerable of Cattle, especially of horses, whose portraiture for making and incomparable swiftness, Giraldus Cambrensis archdeacon of Breknocke doth greatly commend. (5) The ancient Inhabitants that were seated in Gwineth and Powisland, whereof this Shire was a part, were to the Romans known by the name of ORDOVICES, a puissant and courageous Nation, whose hearts and hills held them the longest free from the yoke of subjection, either of the Romans or English. for unto the days of Domitian, they kept plea with the Romans, 〈◊〉 were not brought to the will of the English before the reign of King Edward the first. Those ORDOVICES inhabited the Counties of Mountgomery, Merioneth, Caer●●●, Denbigh, and Fl●t, which are of us called now North-Wales, a people generous and of affable●● 〈◊〉, goodly for feature, fair of complexion, courageous of mind, courteous to strangers, and that which is most commendable, most true and loyal to the English Crown. Towns for Trades and commerce in this County are fix the chiefest thereof and Shire-Towne is Mountgomery, very wholesome for air, and pleasant for situation, upon an easy ascent of an hill, and upon another far higher mounted, stands a fair and well-repaired Castle, from the East Rock whereof, the Town hath been walled, as by some part yet standing, and the tract and trench of the rest even unto the North-side of the said Castle, may evidently be seen: whose graduation for Latitude is placed in the degree 53. and for Longitude 17. the lines cutting each other in the site of this Town. This Town hath lately received the honour and Title of an Earldom, whereof Philip Herbert the second son of Henry Earl of Pembroke, was created the first, in Anno 1605. And the Shire divided into seven Hundreds, wherein are seated six Market-towns, and forty seven Parish-Churches. MERIONETH-SHIRE. CHAPTER X. MERIONETH-SHIRE, which the Britain's call Sira-Verieneth, and in Latin Mer●inia; is bordered upon the North by Carnar●●on and Denbighshires, upon the East with Mongomery, upon the South by the River Dowy, is parted from Cardigan-shire, and the West side altogether washed with the Irish Seas, whose rage with such vehemency beateth against her banks, that it is thought and said, some quantity of the Land hath been swallowed up by those Seas. (2) In form this Shire somewhat resembleth a Welsh-harp, though small is the Music that to her Inhabitants she makes, being the roughest, and most unpleasant to see to (as Giraldus their own Historian writeth) in all Wales. The air for great pleasure, nor soil for great profit, I cannot greatly commend, unless it be for the many and mighty great winds, that for the most part therein do rage, and the spired hills clustered together so near and so high, as the same Author affirmeth, that Shepherds upon their tops falling at odds in the morning and challenging the field for fight, before they can come together to try out the quarrel, the day will be spent, and the heat of their fury shut up with their sleep, (3) These mountains formerly did abound with Wolves, for whose avoydeance Hdgar the peaceable, did impose (as Malmesbury writeth) a yearly Tribute of three hundred Wolves, upon Ludwall Prince of that Country, whereby in three years' space they were quite destroyed: and now their faces are covered with fruitful flocks of Sheep, besides Neat and other cattle that therein abundantly do graze, wherein the only riches of this Shire doth consist: for by reason of the unevenness of the soil and rocks so noere the face of the earth, the Plough cannot be 〈…〉 Corn prosper, which some have imputed to the idleness of the Inhabitants, wherein they have been greatly wronged. (4) These people are a part of the Ordonices, of whom we have spoken, who by the advantage of these mountains held out with the longest against the Romans, and their necks not brought under the yoke of bondage, before the days of King Edward the first; since when they have attempted to east off their subjection to the English, upon whose stirs raised by Owin Glendover, who having been a favourite of King Richard the second, and discontented by King Henry the fourth, in a quarrel with the Lord Grey of Ruthin, that intruded upon his domains, quarrelled with the King, and entered into open rebellion and confederacy with all other his rebels, drawing the Welsh-men wholly to his side, in hope to have had Princes restored of their own blood: and he maintained the same with wonderful pride, policy, and obstinacy for a long time, until his confederates followers and favorates, and his own courage, credit, and maintenance, were brought so low by that powerful King, that in the end he perished for very want of food. (5) Their Towns are not many, neither those that they have of any stately buildings, whereof Bala, ●olgethe, and Harlech are the Marke●●: 〈…〉 in the North-east of this County, in the Welsh 〈◊〉, in English, Pi●●●le-meane, a great pool of water doth drown at least eight score Acres of ground: whose 〈…〉 the high land floods though never so great, cannot 〈…〉 bigger by their 〈…〉 but if the 〈◊〉 be●●oubled with over great blasts and tempests of wi●des, she in as great a rage riseth and passeth her banks, as if she would encounter that enemy in fight Into the South whereof the two headed Dee with a pretty sharp stream entereth, and thorough the same glideth without any mixture of the same water, as the Inhabitants believe; more strongly conceited in their opinion for that the Salmon, usually taken in Dee, is never found in that Pool; and the fish called Guimad, bred in that Meart, never is seen in the River- Dee. South thence near Dolgelhr, in a lower hill, a great Rampire of stone and compass is seen, and hath been some fortification or defence in war: which whilst we were curious to find out some instructions thereof, by report this only we learned, that it was called Caddoryrita Dren, according to the name of her neighbour and far higher hill. (6) Upon the West and Seashore of this Shire, Harlech a Market and Major Town standeth, bleak enough and barren, but only for Fowl and Fish; houses not many, neither curiously built, wherein standeth a little Chapel decayed and without use, in which lieth buried Sir Richard Thimblebye, an English Knight, who for the delight he took in that game, removed his abode from a far better soil. Here also standeth a most strong and beautiful Castle, mounted upon a hill, and with a double Bulwark walled about, commanding the Sea, and passage of entrance of such as seek to invade the Ghost: And surely a great pity it is to see so fair a work fall to decay: the Constable whereof by Patent is ever the Major of this Town; near unto which are two great Inlets of Seas, which at low water may be passed upon the Sands with Guides. Upon whose shore, as upon the Seacoasts in this County, abundance of Herrings are caught, for which cause they are much frequented in the season of the year, by many people from diverse Countries. DENBIGHSHIRE. CHAPTER XI. DENBIGHSHIRE, called in Welsh, Sire Denbigh, retiring more from the Sea within the Country, on this side of the River Conwey shooteth Eastward in one place as far as to the River Dee: on the North, first the Sea (for a small space) and then Plint-shire encompasseth it: on the West, Caernaruon and Merioneth-shire; on the East, Cheshire and Shrop-shire; and on the South, Mountgomeryshire▪ (2) The form thereof is long, growing wider still towards the Northwest, and narrower towards the East It is in length from East to West, one and thirty miles, and in breadth from North to South, seventeen miles: in the whole circuit and circumference, one hundred and fourteen miles. (3) The air is very wholesome and pleasant, yet bleak enough, as exposed to the winds on all sides, and the high hills, wherewith it is in many places enuitoned, long retaining the congealed snow. The tops whereof, in the Summer time, are the haruest-mens' Almanacs, by the rising of certain vapours thereon in the mornings, and foreshow a fair day ensuing. (4) The soil is but barren towards the West part: yet the middle, where it lieth flat in a valley, is most fertile. The East side, when it is once past the valley, findeth Nature to be a very sparing niggard of her savours: but next unto Dee it feeleth a more liberal extent of her blessings. The West part is but here and there inhabited, and mounteth up more than the other with bare and hungry hills: yet the leanness of the soil (where the hills settle any thing flatting) hath been now a good while begun to be overcome by the diligent pains and careful industry of the husbandmen; for they paring away the upper coat of the earth into certain Turfs, with a broad kind of spade, pile them up artificially on heaps, and fire them, so as being turned into ashes, and thrown upon the ground so pared, they fructify the hungry barrenness and sterility of soil, and make the fields bring forth a kind of Rye or Anull-corne, in such plenty, as is hardly to be believed. (5) The ancient Inhabitants of this Country were the Ordovices, who being also named Orde●ices, or Ordo●icae: a puissant and courageous people, by reason they kept wholly in a mountainous place, and took heart even of the soil itself: for they continued longest free from the yoke both of Roman, and also of English dominion. They were not subdued by the Romans, before the days of the Emperor Domitian (for then julius Agricola conquered almost the whole Nation) nor brought under the command of the English, before the reign of King Edward the first; but lived a long time in a lawless kind of liberty, as bearing themselves bold upon their own magnanimity, and the strength of the Country. (6) The Mountains of this County yield sufficiency of Neat, Sheep, and Goats. The Valleys in most places are very plenteous of Corn, especially Eastward on this side, betwixt the Rivers of allen and Dee; but the more Westerly part is heathy, and altogether barren. The heart of the Shire shows itself beneath the hills, in a beautiful and pleasant Vale, reaching seventeen miles in length from South to North, and five miles, or thereabouts, in breadth, and lieth open only toward the Sea. It is environed on every side with high hills, amongst which, the highest is Mo●llenlly, on the top whereof is a warlike Fence with Trench and Rampire, and a little fountain of clear water. From these hills, the River Cluyd resorts unto this Vale, and from the very springhead (increased with becks and brooks) doth part it in twain, running thorough the midst of it; whereof in ancient time it was named Strat Cluyd: for Mariam●s maketh mention of a King of the Strat Cluyd of the Welsh: And at this day it is commonly called Diffryn Cluyd, that is, The Vale of Cluyd. This thing is worthy observation, as a matter memorable, both for admiration and antiquity, that in the Parish of Llan-sanan within this Country, there is a place compass cut out of the main rock by man's hand, in the side of a stony hill, wherein there be four and twenty seats to sit in, some less, some bigger, where children and young men, coming to seek their cattle, use to sit, and to have their sports. And at this day they commonly call it Arthur's round Table. (7) Henry Lacie Earl of Lincoln, obtaining Denbigh by the grant of King Edward the first, after the conviction and beheading of David brother of Llewellin for high Treason, was the first that fortified it with a wall about, not large in circuit, but very strong, and on the Southside with a fair Castle, strengthened with many high Towers. But he gave it over, and left the work unfinished, conceiving grief (as a sorrowful father) that his only son came to untimely death, and was drowned in the Well thereof: The fame of this Town spreads itself far for repute, as being reckoned the most beautiful place in all North-Wales: and it is of no less report, for the Castle adjunct unto it is impregnable for fortification. And this strange accident happening there in the year 1575.▪ deserves not to be omitted, being left as a continual remembrance of God's merciful providence and preservation at that time: that whereby reason of great Earthquakes, many people were put into great fear, and had much harm done unto them both within and without their ho●ses, in the Cities of York, Worcester, Gloucester, Bristol, Hertford, and in other Country's adjacent, yet in the Shire-hall of Denbigh the bell was caused to toll twice, by the shaking of the earth, and no hurt or hindrance at all either done or received. The government of this Town is managed by two Aldermen, and two Bailiffs, who are yearly elected out of twenty five burgestes, that are their assistants. It hath one Recorder, one Town-clerk, and two Sergeants at Mace: and by observation of the Mathematics, the Pole is elevated in the degree of Latitude 53. and 49. scruples, and from the first point in Longitude 16. and 45. (8) This County, with them of Flint and Car●ar●on-shires, are not divided by pricks into their several Hundreds, according to the rest of this work, the want of their particulars in the Parliament Rolls so causing it, which for the good of these three Shires, I earnestly sought to have supplied from the Nomina Villarum, in their Sheriff's books, and had promise of them that might easily have procured the same. But whether a fearless jealousy possessed their spirits, left the riches of these Shires, by revealing such particulars, should be further sought into, I cannot say: yet this I have observed in all my Survey, that where least is to be had, the greatest fears are possessed. Take these Shires therefore to be done as I could, and not as I would, that wish both the wealth of them all, and their esteem to be of better regard by those that may do them good. (9) This Shire than is divided into twelve Hundreds, for the readier ordering of businesses necessary to the State of the Country; wherein are placed three Market-towns, fit for buying and selling, and other negotiations. It hath five Castles to defend herself, and to offend her enemies, and fifty seven Parishes for Gods divine service and worship. FLINTSHIRE. CHAPTER XII. FLINTSHIRE, stretching out in length, broad at one end, and narrow at another, is not much unlike in fashion to a wedge, a piece of which is cut off by the meeting of Cheshire and Denbighshire, Southeast in distance some four miles. It borders Eastward with part of Cheshire, from whence it is guarded in length with the River Dee unto the North, which parteth worral and Flintshire, till you come to a little Island called Hel●bree. Northward it is bounded with the Virgivian Sea: on the West, a little River, called Cluyd, parteth her and Denbighshire asunder: and on the South altogether by Shrop-shire▪ (2) This Country is nothing mountainous, as other parts of Wales are, but rising gently all along the River of Dee, makes a fair show and prospect of herself to every eye that beholds her, as well upon the River, being in most places thereabouts four or five miles broad, as upon the other side thereof, being a part of Cheshire. (3) The Air is healthful and temperate, without any foggy clouds or fennie vapours, saving that sometimes there ariseth from the Sea, and the River Dee, certain thick and smoky-seeming mists, which nevertheless are not found hurtful to the Inhabitants, who in this part live long and healthfully. (4) The Clime is somewhat colder there then in Cheshire, by reason of the Sea, and the River that engirts the better part of her; by which, the Northern winds being long carried upon the waters, blow the more cold; and that side of the Country upward, that lieth shoaring unto the top, having neither shelter nor defence, receiveth them in their full power, and is naturally a Bulwark from their violence unto her bordering neighbours, that maketh the snow to lie much longer there then on the other side of the River. (5) The Soil bringeth forth plenty both of Corn and Grass, as also great store of Cattle, but they be little. To supply which defect, they have more by much in their numbers then in other places where they be bigger. Great store of Fish they take in the River of Dee, but little from the Sea, by reason they have no Havens or Creeks for boats. No great store of woods either there or in any other part of Wales are found, it having been a general plague unto all the Country ever since the headstrong rebellions of their Princes and great men against the Kings of England, that (in time) took away the principal helps of their Innovations, by cutting down their woods, whereof in this Shire there hath heretofore been great plenty. Fruits are scarce, but milk, butter, and cheese plenty, as also store of honey, of the which they make a pleasant wine, in colour like (in taste not much unlike) unto Muskadine, which they call Mathegli●. Yea, and in the days of Giraldus Cambrensis, near the place now called Holy-well, was a rich Mine of Silver, in seeking after which, men pierced and pried into the very bowels of the earth. (6) The ancient Inhabitants of this Country were the Ordovices, a sturdy people against the Romans, but now most kind and gentle towards the English, and indeed make much of all strangers, except they be crossed, and then they are the contrary. (7) Places of defence are the Castles of Flint, Hawarden, vulgarly Harden, Treer, Rudland, Mold, Yowley, and Hope: of which, Flint and Harden are the two principal. The Castle of Flint, famous for the benefit it received from two Kings, and for the refuge and relief it gave unto the third. It was founded by Henry the second, finished by Edward the first, and long after gave harbour and entertainment to that noble, but unfortunate Prince, Richard the second, coming out of Ireland, being within her walls a free and absolute King, but no sooner without, but taken prisoner by Henry Bullingbrooke, Duke of Lancaster, losing at that time his liberty, and not long after his life. This standeth in the graduation of Latitude 53. 55. minutes, in Longitude 17. For the Castle of Hawarden, no record remains of the first founder, but that it was held a long time by the Stewards of the Earls of Chester. Howbeit, their resistances did not so generally consist in the strength of their Castles and Fortifications, as in their Mountains and Hills, which in times of danger served as natural Bulwarks and Defences unto them against the force of enemies. As was that which standeth in a certain straight set about with woods, near unto the River, allen, called Coleshull, that is, Coles-hill, where the English, by reason of their disordered multitude, not ranged close in good array, lost the field, and were defeated, when King Henry the second had made as great preparation as might be to give battle unto the Welsh, and the very King's Standard was forsaken by Henry of Essex, who was Standard-bearer to the Kings of England in right of inheritance. (8) This Country hath many shallow rivers in it, but none of fame and note, but Dee and Cluyde. Howbeit, there is a Spring not far from Rudland Castle, of great report and antiquity, which is termed Fons Sacer, in English, Holy-Well, and is also commonly called S. Winefrids' Well; of whom antiquity thus reporteth: That Winefrid a Christian Virgin, very fair and virtuous, was doted upon by a young lustful Prince or Lord of the Country, who not long able to rule his headstrong affections, having many times in vain attempted and tried her chastity both by rich gifts and large promises, could not by any means obtain his desires; he therefore (in a place of advantage) suddenly surprised and ravished her weak (yet resisting) body. After the deed done, the cruel Tyrant, to stop her cries and acclamations, slew her, and cut off her head: out of which place did suddenly arise a Spring that continueth to this day, carrying from the Fountain such a forcible stream and current, as the like is not found in Christendom. Over the head of the Spring there is built a Chapel of free stone, with Pillars curiously wrought and engraved, in the Chancel whereof, and glass window, the picture of the Virgin is drawn, together with the memorial of her life and death. To this Fountain Pilgrims are accustomed to repair in their zealous, but blind devotion; and diverse others resort to bathe in, holding firmly that the water is of much virtue. There be many red stones in the bottom of this Well, and much green moss growing upon the sides: the superstition of the people holding that those red spots in the stones were drops of the Lady's blood, which all the water in the Spring can never wash away; and that the moss about the wall was her hair, which though some of it be given to every stranger that comes, yet it never wasteth. But howsoever this be carried for truth by the tradition of time, the moss itself smells exceeding sweet. There is also hard by Kilken (a small village) within this County, a little Well of no great note, that at certain times riseth and falleth, after the manner of Sea-tydes. (9) In the South part of this Country, divided from the rest, is a place (in some written Copies of Antonine, called Bovium) which we now term Banchor, first a City, and afterwards a Monastery of famous memory, and the first that is read of in the world: wherein (as Beda saith) were a great number of Monks, and them divided into seven Companies, every one having his several Ruler assigned. None of these Companies had less than three hundred persons devoted to prayer, and to get living by their own labour, for themselves and the poor: although it hath long since been utterly ruinated, so as now there is scarce seen the face and outward show of a dead City or Monastery. It hath only the names of two Gates remaining, one standing a mile distant from another, and betwixt which the River Dee now runneth, where are often times found many pieces of Roman Coin, and other tokens of antiquity. But of these shall be more mention made in the following History. Another like Monastery, but of lesser account, stood in the Vale beneath Varis (a little City placed the Romans in the confines of this Shire and Deabigh-shire) and upon the Rank of Elwy and Cluyd: This the Britain's call 〈◊〉, of the River, the Englishmen, Asuph, of the Founder; and the Historiographers, Asphensis. It is more famous for antiquity, then for building o● bravery: for about the year 560 Kentigein Bishop of Glas●, being fled 〈◊〉 out of Scotland, placed here a Bishops See, and erected a Monastery, gathering together 66●. in a religious brotherhood, whereof 300. that were unlearned, gave themselves to husbandry, and to work within the Monastery; the rest to prayer and meditations. When he returned into Scotland, he ordained Asaph, a godly and upright man, to be governous over this Monastery, of whom it took the name, and is called Saint Asaphs. Another Monastery of great account was at Basingwarke in this County, near unto which began that admirable Ditch drawn thence unto the mouth of 〈◊〉 by King Offa, the Tract whereof I have expressed thorough this Shire, and will further speak thereof in the following History. ANGLESEY. CHAPTER XIII. ANGLESEY was in the time of the Romans called Mona, by the Britain's Mon, and Tirmon, (that is) the Land of Mon, of the ancient English-Saxons Moneg: And at last, after the Englishmen had by their sharp and several assaults brought it under their rules, and became Lords thereof, it was termed Anglesey, as one would say, The Englishmens Island. (2) For, an Island it is, albeit it be severed from the Continent of Britain, but with a small and narrow straight of the river Menai, and on all other parts beaten upon with the surging and troublous Irish Sea, in which it lieth somewhat square-wise, not much different in length and breadth; being, where it reacheth out in length, from Beaumarish Eastward, to the utmost Promontory Westward, which we call Holy-head, twenty miles; and in breadth from Llanbaderik Northward, to the point of Menai southward, seventeen miles; the whole circuit or circumference amounting towards seventy miles. (3) The air is reasonable grateful and healthful, and not generally subject to diseases, excepting certain Agues at some times, which are occasioned by the sogs and misty exhalations, which arise from the Sea called Mare Virginium, with the which this Isle is encompassed. (4) The Commodities that commend (or rather beautify) this Country, are in Corn and Cattle, wherewith it not only enricheth itself exceedingly, but sendeth out great provision thereof to others to supply their defects, and although the ground may seem dry and stony, or unpleasant and nothing sightly, wherein for the outward quality it resembleth some other parts of Wales, that are not so fruitful, yet for the inward bounties of nature, it is far unlike: for above all the Coasts of Wales it is most plentiful of Wheat, insomuch as by Giraldus Cambrensis report, they are wont to say in Welsh, by way of a Proverb, Mon Mam Combry, which is to say, Mon is the mother of Wales; for that when other Country's harvest fails round about, or their provision is exhausted and drawn dry, this alone, like a provident and full-brested mother, is able to sustain the rest Whereunto Nature most providently hath added another benefit serviceable and necessary to the former, in that the Country produceth also those kind of stones which are called Mol●res, is of all other fittest to make Millstones or Grindstones. In some places also it yieldeth an earth of Aluminous quality, out of which some not long since began to make Alom and Coperose, who (like unflesht Soldiers) gave over their enterprise without further hope, because at first they saw it not answer their overhasty expectations. (5) The ancient Inhabitants of this Country were the Ord●●ices, mentioned before in the precedent Provinces of Denbighshire, Flintshire, and Carnaruonshire. And this very Island was that ancient, and so much ennobled seat of the British Druids, who so amated the Army of Roman invaders, as Tacitus reports, and as elsewhere we have related in the sixth Book and seaventh Chapter of our ensuing History. (6) This Nation was attempted first by Pa●linus Suetonius in the reign of Nero, but brought under the Roman Empire by julius Agricola. When the Empire of the Romans in Britain began to decline and go downward, some out of Ireland entered into this Isle by stealth, and nestled themselves there, as may be gathered by certain mounts of earth entrenched about, and yet to be seen, which they call the Irish men's Cottages: as also by a place named of the Irishmen, yn Hieriey Gwidid, who did there (as is recorded) put the Britain's to flight, under the leading of Sinigus. The Norwegians also were often infestuous to this Island; but King Ethelreds' Fleet, having in the year 1000 scoured the Seas round about this Isle, far exceeded all both Irish and Norwegian depopulations, for they wasted the Country in all hostile manner. (7) After this, two hugh's, both Normans, did greatly afflict this Island: The one being Earl of Chester, the other of Shrewsbury; at which very time Magnus the Norwegian arriving there, shot Hugh Earl of Shrewsbury through with an Arrow, and departed after he had ransacked the Island. It was afterwards grievously infested by the Englishmen, who never gave over from time to time to invade it, until in the reign of King Edward the first, it was wholly brought under his subjection. (8) The principal Town in this Isle is Beaumarish, which the said King Edward the first built in the East side thereof, and for the fair situation, though in a Morish place, gave it the name which it now beareth, whereas in times past it was called Bonover; which he also fortified with a goodly Castle. (9) The Mayor is the chiefest Magistrate of the Towno, who is yearly chosen, and hath the assistance and help of two Bailiffs, two Sergeants at Mace, and one Town-clerk: by whose careful diligence the affairs of this Town are orderly managed and commanded: whose Latitude is 54. and Longitude 15. 45. minutes. (10) Not far from hence is Lhaanuais, in times past a fair religious house of the Friars Minors, which although it be now in a manner razed out of memory, yet antiquity maketh mention that it hath been of great regard among the Kings of England, who have showed themselves very bountiful Patrons unto that Covent, both in respect of the sanctimonious life of such as conversed there, as also because there the bodies of very eminent persons, as the daughter of King john, the son of a King of the Danes, as likewise of many great Lords, Knights, and Squires, were interred, that were slain in the wars against the Welsh, in the time of many illustrious Kings of England. (11) This Isle is reckoned to have had anciently many Villages in it, even to the number of three hundred threescore and three; and the same even at this day is very well peopled. The division of this I'll for disposition of affairs that belong either to the state of the Cro●●●, or to the condition of the Country, is into six Hundreds: in which are seated two Market-towns, and seventy four Parish-Churches for Gods divine honour and worship. CAERNARVONSHIRE. CHAPTER XIIII. CAERNARVONSHIRE, in Welsh, Sire Caer-ar-von, so called because it is just over against Anglesey, (which the Britain's call Mon,) and in composition was termed also Snowden-Forrest, before Wales was laid into Shires; the North-side whereof and the West butteth upon the Irish Sea, the Southside is enclosed with Merioneth, and the East with Denbighshires, from which it is severed by the River Conwey. (2) The form thereof is much like a wedge, long and narrow toward the South, and growing still wider towards the North: so that from Penenkel-point southward, to Orms-head-point Northward, are forty miles, from the River Conwey Eastward, to the River Llenoy Westward, miles twenty: and the whole circumference one hundred and ten miles. (3) The Air is sharp and piercing, by reason that the Country hath not natural provision to ensconce herself against the extremity of winds and weather: but especially as may be thought, through the continuance of the Snow on the hills, which also exclude the Sun's aspect and warmth. (4) The soil cannot be much commended for the fertility, except those parts of the Seacoasts, which lie on the West towards Ireland: but for the heart of this Shire, it is altogether mountainous, as if Nature had a purpose here, by rearing up these craggy hills so thick together, strongly to compact the joints of this our Island, and to frame the Inland part thereof for a fit place of refuge to the Britain's, against those times of adversity which afterward did fall upon them; for no Army though never so strongly, or scarce any Travellers, though never so lightly appointed, can find passage among those so many rough and hard Rocks, so many Vales and Pools here and there, crossing all the ways, as ready obstacles to repel any Inroads of foreign assailants. These Mountains may not unfitly be termed the British Alpes, as being the most vast of all Britain, and for their steepness and cragginess not unlike to those of Italy, all of them towering up into the Air, and round encompassing one far higher than all the rest, peculiarly called Snowdon-Hill, though the other likewise in the same sense, are by the Welsh termed Cralg Er●ry, as much as Snowy Mountains, taking their name as doth (by Pliny's testimony) Niphates in Armenia, and Imaus in Schithia: For all the year long these lie mantelled over with Snow hard crusted together, though otherwise for their height they are open and liable both to the Sun to dissolve them, and the winds to over-sweepe them. (5) The ancient Inhabitants of this Country were the Ordovices, of whom we have sufficiently spoken in the description of the former Provinces; neither need I insist either upon the pleasures or profits that this Country yieldeth, by reason of the great affinity it hath both of Climate and Commodities with Denbighshire and Flintshire before mentioned But this beyond the other in some places breeds certain Shel-fishes, which being conceived by an heavenly dew bring forth Pearls, in ancient times 〈…〉 of then now they are. (6) Touching places of note, that City is very ancient which the Emperor Antonine calleth Segontium, taking name of a River running by, which at this day is called Seront: some relics of the walls whereof do yet appear, near unto a little Church consecrated to the honour of Saint Publicius. This City Ninius calleth Caer Custenith, which some interpret the City of Constantine. Indeed Matthew Westminster saith (how true I know not) that Anno 1283. here was found the body of Constantius (Father to great Constantine) which King Edward the first caused to be sumptuously bestowed in the Church of the new City, which he raised out of the ruins of the old, and is now called Ca●●naruon, which giveth name to this whole Shire. The Town itself yieldeth a most excellent prospect towards the Sea, and is encompassed (in a manner) round with the walls of the Castle: so as we may say, it is a City within a Castle, which taketh up the whole Westside of it: and great pity it is, that so famous a work should not be perpetuous, or ever become the ruin of time, which is much feared, for the merciless undermine of the Sea, that with her daily and forcible eruptions never ceaseth to wash away the foundations of the Key. The people of this Town are well approved for courte●ie, and also Civil government, which is administered by the Constable of the Castle (who is ever Mayor by Patent) having the assistance of one Alderman, two Bailiffs, two Sergeants at Mace, and one Town-clerk. The Townsmen do not a little glory that King Edward the second was borne there, in a Tower of the Castle called Eagle-Tower, and surnamed of Caernaruon, he being the first Prince of Wales of the English line. The site of this Town according to Mathematical observation is in the degree of Longitude 15. and 50. scruples from the first West-point, and the Pole elevated in Latitude 53. and 50. Bangor the Bishops See, though it be now but a small Town, yet it was in time passed so large, that for the greatness thereof it was called Banchor Vaur, that is, Great Banchor; which Hugh Earl of Chester fortified with a Castle: But it hath been long since utterly ruinated and laid level with the ground, in so much as there is not any footing to be found, or other monuments left thereof, although they have been sought with all diligent enquiry. This Bishops See hath within the Diocese ninety six Parishes. But the ancient Church which was consecrated unto Daniel, sometime Bishop thereof, was defaced and set on fire by that notorious Rebel Owen Glendowerdwy, who had a purpose also to destroy all the Cities of Wales, for that they stood for the King of England. And though the same Church was since repaired about the time of King Henry the seaventh, yet hath it scarce recovered the resemblance of her former dignity. The River Conwey (which limitteth this Shire on the East-side) is in Ptolemy by corruption or ignorance of Transcribers called Toisonius, in stead of Cononius, whence Canonium (a Town mentioned by Antonine) took name: and albeit both it and its name be now utterly extinct, yet is there a covert remembrance thereof in the new name of a poor Village, standing among the rubbish thereof, called Caer-hean, (that is) The ancient City: Out of the spoil whereof King Edward the first, built a new Town at the River's mouth, termed thereupon Aberconwey: (that is) the mouth of Conwey, which being formerly fortified by Hugh of Chester, and strongly situate and fenced both with walls & a fair Castle by the River's side, deserves rather the name of a City then a Town, if it were more populous and trafficked with Inhabitants Neither must I here forget Newin, though but a small Market-town, for that it pleased the English Nobleses Anno 1284 to honour it and the memory of King Arthur, with triumphant celebrity, after they had subdued the rebellious Ringleaders of Wales. (7) Other matters of memorable note this Country affordeth not much, unless perhaps this; That just over against the River Conwey, where it iflueth into the Sea, there sometimes stood an ancient City named Diganwey, which many years ago was consumed by lightning, and so made utterly desolate, as many other monuments have been, of ancient and worthy memory. As likewise that in the Pool Lin-Peris, there is a kind of Fish called there Torco●h, having a red belly, no where else seen. For touching these two other miracles famoused by Giraldus and Geruasius, that on those his high hills there are two Pools called the Meres, the one of which produceth great store of fish, but all having only one eye, and in the other there is a movable Island, which as soon as a man treadeth on, it forthwith floateth a great way off, whereby the Welsh are said to have often scaped and deluded their enemy's assailing them: these matters are out of my Creed, and yet I think the Reader had rather believe them, then to go to see whether it be so or no. SCOTLAND'S GENERAL DESCRIPTION. CHAPTER I. SCOTLAND, the second Kingdom of Great Britain, and the North part of the Island, hath on the East the german Ocean, on the North, the Orkneys, and Deucalidon Sea, the West affronted with Ireland, and the South hath the River Tweed, the Cheviot Hils, and the adjacent Tract, reaching to the Sulway Sands, whereby it is separated from England. (2) This Kingdom is fair and spacious, and from these South-borders spreadeth itself wide into the East and West, till again it contracts itself narrower unto the Northern Promontories: furnished with all things befitting a famous Kingdom; both for Air and Soil, Rivers, Woods, Mountains, Fish, Fowle, and Cattle, and Corn so plenteous, that it supplieth therewith other Countries in their want. The people thereof are of good feature, strong of body, and of courageous mind, and in wars so venturous, that scarce any service of note hath been performed, but that they were with the first and last in the field. Their Nobility and Gentry are very studious of learning, and all civil knowledge; for which end they not only frequent the three Universities of their own Kingdom (S. Andrew's, Glasco, and Edenbrough, the Nurseries of Piety, and Mansions of the sacred Muses) but also much addict themselves to travel into foreign Countries. (4) Yet, in the mean while, lest I should seem too difective in my intendments, let me without offence (in this third, though short Book) give only a general view of that Kingdom, upon observations from others; which to accomplish by mine own survey (if others should hap to fail, and my crazy-aged-body will give leave) is my chief desire; knowing the Island furnished with many worthy remembrances, appertaining both unto them and us, whom God now hath set under one Crown: and the rather, for that their more Southern people are from the same Original with us the English, being both alike the Saxon branches: as also, that the Picts anciently inhabiting part of that Kingdom, were the inborn Britain's, and such as thither fled to avoid the Roman servitude: whose names began first to be distinguished under Dioclesian the Emperor, when they were termed Picts for painting their bodies, like the Britain's, as such Flavius Vigetius: which is more strengthened, for that the Northern Britain's converted by Saint Columb, are called Britain Picts. (6) Their manner were alike, saith Diodorus, Siculus, and Strabo, and their garments not much different, as by Sidonius Apollinaris may be gathered, where he seemeth rather to describe the modern Wild-Irish, than the antic Get. Notwithstanding this Nations Original by some hath been derived from Scota, the supposed Daughter of the Egyptian King Pharaoh, that nourished Moses, afterwards married unto Gaithelus, the son of Cecrops, (Founder of Athens) who first seating in Spain, passed thence into Ireland, and lastly into Scotland, where his Wife Scota gave Name to the Nation; if we believe that they hit the mark, who shoot at the Moon. (7) But that the Scythians came into Spain, (besides the Promontory bearing their Name Scythi●um) Silius Italicus, a Spaniard borne, doth show, who bringeth the Concani, a Nation therein seated, from the Massagetae, which were the Scythians; and the Sarmatae, whom all confess to have been Scythians, were the builders (as he saith) of the City Susanna in Spain▪ And how from Spain they possessed themselves of Ireland, (at the time when the Kingdom of julah flourished,) Ninius the Disciple of Eluodugus doth tell, and their own Histories of Nemethus and Delas, besides Cisnerus and others, do show; who were first known by the name of Scots, as is gathered out of Prophyry (alleged by S. Jerome) in the reign of Aurelianus the Emperor. Gildas calleth them the Irish-Spoilers: Giraldus, A Scotish Nation, descended from Ireland: which in regard of them by Eginbardus is termed The I'll of Scots: by Beda, The I'll inhabited by the Scots; and by other Historians, Scotland the great; as their seat in Britain was called Scotland the less. (9) Scotland's South part in Galloway, washed with the warer of Solway Bay, toucheth degree 56. of Latitude, and thence inbosoming many Loughes and In-lets upon the East and West, extendeth itself unto the degree 60 and 30 minutes; whose Longitude is likewise laid betwixt the degree 13 and 19 and the same grown very narrow, being so near the North-Pole, as lying directly under the hindermost Stars of the Greater Bear. (11) And these again are subdivided into Sherifdomes, Stewardships, and warwicks, for the most part inheritory unto honourable Families. The Ecclesiastical Government is also subject under two Metropolitan Archbishops, which are of S. Andrew's, (the Primate of Scotland,) and of Glasco; whose jurisdictions are as followeth. S. Andrew's. Dunkeld. Aberdon. Murray. Dunblan. Brechin. Rosse. Cathanes. Orkeney. Glasco. Galloway. Argile. Iles. Amongst the things worthy of note of Antiquity in this Kingdom, most memorable was that Fortification drawn from Abercorne upon the Frith of Edinburgh, unto Aleluya, how Dunbritton, opening upon the West Sea, where julius Agricola set the limit of the Roman Empire; past which, saith Tacitus, there was no other bounds of Britain to be sought for: and that here the second Legion Augusta, and the 20. Legion Victrix, built a part of the Wall, certain Inscriptions there digged up, and reserved at Dunloyr and Cader, do witness: as also an ancient coped monument of an high and round compass, which, as some think, was a Temple consecrated unto the God Ter●●●: others, a Trophy raised by Carausius, who fortified this Wall with seven Castles, as Ninius doth declare. (13) Ninian a Britain is recorded to have converted the South-Ficts unto the Faith of Christ in the reign of Theodosius the younger, and the Church in Galloway bearing his name doth witness it: so likewise in the same age Palladius sent from Pope Celestine, became an Apostle unto the Scots, whose relics lay enshrined at Fordo● in Mernis, as was verily supposed: but that Christianity had been formerly planted in this uttermost Province, is testified by Tertuilian, in saying the Britain's had embraced the faith farther than the Romans had power to follow or persecute them, whereupon Peter Monk of 〈◊〉 Spain, concludeth their conversion to be more ancient than the Southern Britain's. (14) But touching things observable for the present, surely admirable is the report of the plenty of Cattle, Fish, and Fowl there abiding: their Neat but little, yet many in number: Fish so plentiful that men in some places (for delight) on horseback hunt Salmon with Spears: and a certain Fowl, which some call Soland-geeses, spreading so thick in the air, that they even darken the Sun's light; of whose flesh, feathers and oil, the Inhabitants in some parts make great use and gain; yea, and even of fishes brought by them, abundant provision for diet, as also of the sticks (brought to make their nests) plentiful provision for fuel. (16) No less strange than any the forementioned waters, but more lamentable is the remembrance of the great inundation, happing by the sudden rising of Tay. which bore away the Walls and Town of Birth, and with it the Cradle and young son of King William into the Sea, wherein the Royal Insant with many others perished, the King and his Courtiers hardly escaping the danger with life. The ruin of this Town raised another more famous, and more commodiously seated, even Perth, since called Saint johns-towne. (17) Island and Ilets yielding both beauty and subjection to this Scotish Kingdom, are the Western, the Orknayes, and the Shetlands, reckoned to be above three hundred in number; the Inhabitants for the most part using the frugality of the ancient Scot (18) The Western lying scattered in the Deucalidoman Sea, were anciently ruled by a King of their own, whose maintenance was out of their common Coffers, and the Regal Authority never continued in line all succession, for (to prevent that) their Kings were not permitted to have wives of their own, but might by their Laws accompany with other men's: as the like Law was in the other parts of Scotland, that the Virginity of all new wives, should be the Landlord's prey, till King Malcolm enacted, that half a mark should be paid for redemption. The residence of those forementioned Kings, was chiefly in Ila, Bunals, and jona, now Columbkill, where (as Donald Munr●, who traveled through these Lands reporteth) are three Tombs, having the several Inscriptions of the Kings of Scotland, of Ireland, and of Norway. (19) Among these Western Lands, the Hebrides, Sky, Mula, Ila, and Arran, are the greatest: All of them plentiful of Corn, Woods, Salmon and F●errings, as others of Coney's Deer, Horses, and Sheep, where in some they are wild, and in others without any owners; but the people uncivil, and lacking Religion, they rather live rudely in state of necessity, then as Lords of these portions which God hath allotted them; and with a sufferable ease, ignorant of ambition, enjoy those contentments, which some others (though they no great sum) do more laboriously attain unto by the precepts of philosopy: for, feeding themselves with competency without any excess, they return all the ouer-plus unto their Lords, as do the Inhabitants of Hirta and Rona; but alas, Religion not known among them, these penurious virtues are rather the curses of Cham, than the followings of Christ, who forbids us to be too careful for the morrow. (20) The Isles of Orkenay upon the North of Scotland, lying in a most raging and tempestuous Sea, are about three and thirty in number, whereof thirteen are inhabited, and the other replenished with Cattle: in these are no venomous Serpents, nor other ugly vermin; the air sharp and healthful, and the soil apt to bear only Oats and Barley, but not a stick of wood: among these, Pomonia is the greatest, accounted and called the Maine-land, affording six Minerals of Lead and Tin, and in her chief Town a Bishops See: wherein are seated twelve Parish-Churches, one of them very magnificent for so remote a Country. (21) Of all the Romans, julius Agricola first discovered the Orkenays'; yea, and subdued them, if we will believe Tacitus: but Pomponius Mela, that wrote thirty years before him, doth mention them, and Iwenal in Hadrians' time after him, tells us the Romans had won them; and lastly, Claudian nameth Saxons that were slain in them and so doth Ninius name Octha and Ebissus, Saxon Commanders, who in their roving Pinnaces wasted the Orknays'. These Island Donald Bane the usurper of the Scotish Crown, gave to the King of Norway for his assistance, and by the Norwegians were they held the space of an hundred and sixty years, until that Alexander the third King of Scotland, with sword and composition got them from Magnus the fourth, King of Norway, which afterward King Haquin confirmed unto King Robert Bruce: but lastly, Christian the first, King of Norway and Denmark, utterly renounced all his right to those Lands, when he gave his daughter in marriage unto King james the third, which deed was further ratified by the Pope, who openeth the way to the possession of Kingdoms with his own key. IRELAND DESCRIBED. CHAPTER I. THe Traditions of time have delivered unto us diverse names, whereby this famous Island is recorded to have been called: yet none of more fair probability, then that of Orpheus, Aristotle and Claudian, by whom it is named jerna: by Iwenal and Mela called Iwerna: by Diodorus Siculus, Iris: by Martian of Heraclea, joyepnia: by Eustachius, Oyernia, and Bernia by the native Inhabitants, Eryn: by the Britain's, Yuerdon: the Welsh-Bards in their Ballads, Tiruolas Totidanan, and Banno: and by the English, Ireland. But from whence these diversities were derived, arise many opinions. Doubtless it is, that Hibernia, Iwerna, and Ouernia, came from jerna, spoken of by O●pheus and Aristotle; and the same jerna, as also Iris, juerdhon, and Ireland, from Erin, the term that the Inhabitants now use. From this Erin therefore (a word proper to the Nation) the original is most likely to be deduced. (2) Some derive Hiber●●a from Hiberno tempore, that is, from the winter season; some from Hiberus a Spaniard; some from a Duke named Irnalph; some again from the ancient River Iberus, and 〈◊〉 from Heir, an Irish word, which signifieth the west, or a western coast, whence Erin may also seem to fetch the derivation: for it lieth furthest Westward of any Region in all Europe. As also for that the River running in the most remote west-part of this Island, is in Ptolemy called jernus: like as the furthest Western Promontory in Spain, from whence our Irish men came, is by Strabo called jerne, and the River next unto it, by Mela, jerna: yea, and Spain itself, for the Western situation, is called Hesperia: the West-Cape of Africa, Hesperium; and in Germany, Westrich and Westphale● from their position have their names. Postelius (a man that rather followed his own fancy, than the judgement of others) fetcheth the original of Ireland from the Hebrews, as if Irin should be as much as jurin, that is, the jews land: which opinion I hold no better than those that would have it from the Winter-like storms, although upon every wind the air is cold there. (3) Festus Auienus, in that little book which he entitled Ora maritima calleth Ireland, Sacram Insulam, that is, the holy Island: to which opinion the people are soon drawn, by reason of the many Saints that the Island is said to produce, and the blessed soil that affords no venomous creatures to retain life. It is thought that Plutarch meant Ireland by his Ogygia, for her great antiquity; and of latter times by isidore and Bede it was called Scots of those Scots that inhabited it: and that thence the name of Scotland, together with the Scots themselves, came into Britain. (4) For largeness and circuit, in times past, this Island challenged the third place in rank of all the Isles of the then known world: for thus have Geographers left us, that the Indian Taproba● for greatness was the first, the I'll of Britain the next, and this of Ireland the third: and for that cause doth Ptolemy call it the little Britain. But how soever Strabo hath extended the breadth, as broad as the length, and others have form it in shape like an egg, yet latter dimensions have found it far otherwise, twice longer than broad, and may be compared to the forelegge of a Bear, if the Simile breed no offence. Whose East-side hath on it that tempestuous Sea that cutteth her channel betwixt England and this Ireland: the West is washed with the Western Ocean; the North with the 〈◊〉 Caledonian; and the South with the Vergivian Sea. (5) The air of this Island is delectable and wholesome, though neither so clear nor sub●●● of England, which (as Mela saith) is nothing favourable for the ripening of Cor●e: but so grateful to the ground, that it causeth grass to grow abundantly, not only fresh and long, but withal very sweet for all Cattle, and in Winter is more subject to wind then snow: and that I may use the words of Giraldus, It is of all Countries most temperate, neither forcing the Inhabitants to seek shade from the frying heat of Cancer, nor the chilling cold of Capricorn to drive them to the fire: but at all seasons most mild, betwixt a sufferable cold, and gentle warm heat. (6) The soil (saith Cambrensis) is uneven, woody, wild, waterish and boggy, so full of Loghs and Meeres, that great ponds of water are found upon the high Mountains. These indeed make the places somewhat dangerous unto all new comers, by breeding of rheums dysenteries and fluxes, whose usual remedy is Vskebah, a wholesome Aqua vita, that drieth more, and inflameth less, than many other hot confections. (7) The Commodities of this Kingdom chiefly consist in Cattle, whose feed is so sweet and so rank, that they will soon graze to a surfeit, if they may be suffered to feed as they will. Their sheep are many, but bear not the best wool, which twice are shorn within one year. Of these they make Mantles, Caddowes, and Couerle●s, vented from thence into foreign Countries. Their Hobbies likewise are of great esteem, and are answerable to the ●ennets of Spain. Bees are there in such abundance, that honey is found in holes of old trees, and in rests of the rocks. No annoyance of hurtful Snake or venomous creatures; and to speak all in a word, nothing wanting for profit or pleasure: for so much doth Giraldus affirm, in saying, that Nature had cast into this Western Kingdom of Zephyrus a more gracious eye than was ordinary. (8) Touching the original peopling of this fair Island, if we will believe their records, they make antiquity itself but young unto themselves, affirming the damsel Caesarea, and niece unto Noah, to have found it out before the Flood; and that three hundred years after; when japhets' posterity took into these West-parts of the world, one Barthela●●● of his progeny, a Scythian by birth, encouraged by the late success of N●●rod (who now had intruded upon the Monarchy of Syria) wandered so far West, that Fortune at last cast him and his people upon the coast of Ireland. There he settled with his three sons, Languinna, Salarus, and Ruthurgus, who searching through every creek and corner of the Land, left their own names by three notable places, Languish, Stragrus, and Mount Salanga, which the revolution of times hath since called by other names, as S. Dominickhill, Ruthurgi, and Stag●●●. Under the government of these three sons, and their offspring, this land was kept about three hundred years; at which time there arrived also in Ireland a Giantlike kind of people of Nimrods' race, who in bodily shape exceeded the proportion of usuallmen, using their strengths to win 〈…〉 and to oppressed with rapine and violence. These growing to numbers, accounted it necessary to prevent dominion, lest the curse of slavery (prophesied by Noah) should light upon them: to prevent the which, they set up a King of their own; then quarrels bred daily, either parties purposing to hold their interest by their swords: against whom, lastly a battle was fought, and an infinite company of Giants slain▪ when also died most of those of the posterity of japheth, leaving them of Cham Lords of Island. (9) Whereupon Nemethus a Scythian, with his four sons, arrived in Ireland, and by strong hand seated themselves among these Grants; where for two hundred and sixty years they kept, but then no longer able to hold out against them, they left their standings, and departed the land. (10) Soon after, the five sons of Dela, descended from the said Nemethus, came into these coasts, and with manly prowess drove these miscreants out of Ireland, whereby the seed of Cham was utterly expelled, & these of japheth divided the land into five parts, whereof they became themselves Kings: but falling at variance, gave advantage unto others, among whom the BRITAIN'S set in a foot. (11) But to make this Island more famous, certain Historians have fetched their Kings from most uncertain Records, as namely from Gaothel the Grecian, and Scotia (the daughter of King Pharaoh, and nourisher of Moses) his wife: who at that time, when Israel were in Egypt, with a Colony came into Spain, and after into Ireland, where he was made King, and in honour of his Queen, the land named Scotia, from whom also the Inhabitants took name: his posterity increasing in the parts of Spain, where first they had seated, in process of time sought further adventures under the four sons of Milesius King of Spain, whose names were Hibernus, Hermion, Ever, and Erimon. (12) These, by the direction sufferance, and assistance of Gurguntius, King of the Britain's, after that Ireland had been very much dispeopled by a contagious pestilence, seated themselves, and from the eldest, Hiberius, called the I●●and Hibernia, as some are of opinion: these divided the whole into five Provinces, famously known by the names of Monster, Leinster, Connaught, Ulster, and M●ath in their midst: and from these the present Irish repute themselves to come. Yet surely, as I make no question, but that this Island became inhabited even of old time, when mankind again overspread the face of the earth, so doubt I not, but that our Britain's pas●ed thereinto themselves, such infinite number of words in the Irish language yet in use, such ancient names of Waters, Isles, Mountains, and places, merely British words, yet remaining, and the testimony of ●acitus, who saith, that their manners were fashioned to the Britain's, enforceth so much; and Ptolemy before him, calleth that Island by the name of little Britain: all which show a former interest for Ireland, then that which by conquest under Henry the second was made. (13) That it ever was subject to the Romans, is doubtful, though Agricola did wish it, and Tacitus held most necessary: yea, and in the division of their Empire, Ireland, with Britain and Thule, fell unto Constantine the son of Constantine the great; yet their manners unreclaimed, and barbarism retained long after those days, do witness no such 〈◊〉 sown, to be in that plot. But when Rome's great Empire began to grow less, the Scots or Scythians grew mighty in Ireland: and as Oros●●● writeth, that Island was wholly inhabited by the Scotish Nation in the days of Honorius, and Ar●●dius, the Emperors: whose wars and slaughter, Claudian doth lightly touch in this his Verse. Scotorum cumulos flevit glacialis jerne. The frozen Ireland wept to see, her Scots all slain on heaps to be. (14) As these for the most part, by the testimony of Ninius, were the ancient Inhabitants, so by other ancient Writers, their customs and manners are thus set forth: Strabo saith, The Inhabitants of Ireland are more rude than the Britain's, they feed upon the flesh of men, yea, and think it a point of worth to eat their dead parents: want only they accompany with women, making no difference of other men's wives, their own sisters, nor of their natural mothers: but of these things (saith he) we have no certain witness of sufficient credit. Po●ponius Mela recordeth, that the Irish are uncivil, ignorant of virtues, and void of religion: And Solinus affirmeth, that after victory they drink the blood of the slain, and besmear their own faces therewith; so given to war, that the mother at the birth of a man-child, feedeth the first meat into her infant's mouth, upon the point of her husband's sword, and with he at●enish imprecations, wisheth that it may die no otherwise then in war or by sword. (15) But from these ancient and barbarous manners, let us come to the conditions of their middle time; whom Giraldus Cambrensis describeth as followeth: The Irish (saith he) are a strong and bold people, martial and prodigal in war, nimble, stout, and haughty of heart; careless of life, but greedy of glory; courteous to strangers, constant in love, light of belief, impatient of injury, given to fleshly lusts, and in enmity implacable. At the baptising of their Infants, their manner was, not to dip their right arms into the water, that so (as they thought) they might give a more deep and incurable blow; never calling them by the names of their Parents whilst they lived together, but at their death took it upon them. Their women nursed not the children they bore; and they that nursed others, did affect and love them much more than their own. (16) So much were they given to fantastical conceits, that they held it very ominous to give their neighbour's fire upon May-day: to eat an old egg, endangered the death of their horse: and before they cast in their seed, they send salt into the field: to hang up the shells in the roof, was a preservative of the chickens from the kite: to set up green boughs at their doors in the Month of May, increased their kines' milk; and to spit upon Cattle, they held it good against Witchery, whereof Ireland was full. (17) Superstitious Idolatry among the wild Irish was common, yielding divine honour unto the Moon after the change, unto whom they both bowed their knees, and made supplications; and with a loud voice would thus speak unto that Planet: We pray thee leave us in as good estate as thou foundst us. Wolves they did make their Godsibs, terming them Chari Christ, and so thought themselves preserved from their hurts: the hooves of dead horses they accounted and held sacred: about children's necks they hung the beginning of Saint john's Gospel, a crooked nail of an horse-shoe, or a piece of a Wolves skin; and both the sucking-child and nurse were girt with girdles finely plated of woman's hair; so far they wandered into the ways of error, in making these arms the strength of their healths. (18) Their wives were many, by reason of divorcements, and their maids married at twelve years of age, whose customs were to send to their lovers, bracelets plated, and curiously wrought of their own hair; so far following Venus in the knots of these allurements. The men wore linen shirts exceedingly large, stained with Saffron, the sleeves wide, and hanging to their knees, straight and short trusts plated thick in the skirts, their breeches close to the thighs, a short skein hanging point down before, and a mantle most times cast over their heads. The women wore their hair plated in curious manner, hanging down their backs and shoulders, from under soulden wreathes of fine linen, rolled about their heads, rather loading the wearer, then delighting the beholder: for as the one was most seemly, so the other was unsightly: their necks were hung with chains and carkaneths, their arms wreathed with many bracelets, and over their sidegarments the shag rug mantles purfled with a deep Fringe of diverse colours, both sexes accounting idleness their only liberty, and ease their greatest riches. (19) In wars they were forward, and fought with battleaxes, whose bearers were called Galloglasses, the common Soldier but lightly armed, who served with darts and sharp skeines; their Trumpet was a Bagpipe, and word for encounter, Pharroh; which at the first onset with great acclamation they uttered, and he that did not, was taken into the air, and carried into the vale of Kerr●, where transformed (as they did believe) he remained until he was hunted with Hounds from thence to his home. (20) For the dying and dead they hired women to mourn, who expostulated with the sick, why he would die; and dead, at his Funeral such out-cries were made, such clapping of hands, such howl, and gestures, that one would think their sorrows unrecoverable, holding the opinion of Pythagoras for the souls departed. (21) Their diet in necessity was slender, feeding upon water-cresses, roots, mushrooms, shamrogh, butter tempered with oatmeal, milk, whey, yea, and raw flesh, the blood being crushed out: their use was also to let their kine blood, which standing a while, and coming to a jelly, with butter they did eat, as a very good dish. (22) That the Gospel of Christ should be preached in Ireland by james the Apostle, I will not affirm, though Vincentius hath said it: neither will I, with the Scots, bring the Lands conversion from a Christian woman, who (as their Historians do avouch) first instructed the Queen, and the Queen her husband, and he again his Subjects, till all became Christians. But most true it is, that the Scots first received the doctrine of Christ in this Kingdom of Ireland; for thus writeth Prosper: Coelestin Pope of Rome sent his Archdeacon Palladius into Britain to withstand the Pelagian heresy, who at one time did drive out these enemies of grace, and ordained a Bishop among the Scots, whereby that barbarous Nation embraced Christianity. Yet Ninius reporteth, that Palladius did nothing in neither, being taken away by untimely death: but that S. Patrick, borne at E●burne in Cluedsdale, the son of Calphurus, by the sister of S. Martin, was the first Apostle for Ireland, who sowed his heavenly seed with such plentiful increase, that the soil itself shortly was called Sanctorum Patria, the Country of Saints: for whose Sepulchre after his death rose as great variance, as was for Homer amongst them of Greece: they of down challenged his grave to be with them, upon certain Verses written on a Tomb, which ascribes Patrick, Bridget, and Columbe to be buried therein: they of Armagh lay claim by the warrant of S. Bernard, who saith, that Patrick in his life time there ruled, and after death there rested. Glascenbury in England by ancient records will have his body interred with them; and Scotland avoucheth his birth to be at Glasco, and bones to rest at Kirk-Patricke with them: of such reverend esteem was this Irish Apostle. THE PROVINCE OF MOUNSTER. CHAPTER II. THis Province, called in Irish, Mown; in a more ordinary construction of speech, Wown; in Latin, Momonia; and in English, Monster; lieth open South ward to the Verginian Sea: Northward it affronteth part of Connaught: The East is neighboured by L●i●ster: and the West is altogether washed with the West Ocean. (2) The length thereof extended from Ballatimore-Bay in her South, unto the Bay of Galway in her North, are about ninety miles. Her broadest part from East to West, is from Waterford-haven to Feriter Haven, and containeth an hundred miles. The whole circumference, by following the prometaries and indents, are above five hundred and forty miles. (3) The form thereof is quadrant or fouresquare. The 〈◊〉 mild and temperate, neither too chilling cold, not too scorching hot. The soil in some parts is hilly, looking 〈◊〉 with woody, wild, and solitary mountains: yet the valleys below are garnished with Corne-fields. And generally, all, both pleasant for fight, and fertile for soil. (4) This Province is at this day divided into two parts that is, the West- Monster, and the South- Monster. The West- Monster was inhabited i● old 〈◊〉 by the 〈◊〉 the Velabri, and the Vteri●●: the South- Monster by the Oudi●● or 〈◊〉, and the Cori●ndi. The Velabri and 〈◊〉 are said (by Orosius) to have dwelled in that part of the Country, where it lieth outmost Westward, and passing towards the Cantabrian Ocean, looketh a far off to Gallitia in Spain. The Luceni of Ireland (who seem to have derived their name and original from the Lucen●● of Gall●tia, and of whom there still remain some relics in the Barony of Lyxno●●) are supposed to have been seated in those parts that lie neighbouring upon the bank of the River Shemon. (5) The general Commodities of this Province, are Corn, Cattle, Wood, Wool, and Fish. The last whereof, it affords in every place plenty & abundance of all sorts. But none so well known for the store of Herrings that are taken there, as is the Promontory called Eraugh, that lies between Bantre and Ballatimore Bay, whereunto every year a great Fleet of Spaniards and Portugals resort (even in the midst of Winter) to fish also for Cod. (6) The principal City of the Province is Limericke, which the Irish call Loumeagh, compassed about with the famous River Shennon, by the parting of the Channel. This is a Bishops See, and the very Mart-Towne of Monster. It was first won by Reymond le Grosse an Englishman, afterwards burnt by Duncnald an Irish petty King of Thuetmond. Then in process of time, Philip Breos an Englishman was enfeoffed in it, and King john fortified it with a Castle, which he caused therein to be built. In this Castle certain Hostages making their abode in the year 1332 grew (as is reported) so full of pride and insolency, that they flew the Constable thereof, and seized the Castle into their own hands. But the resolute Citizens, that could neither brook nor bear with such barbareus cruelty, did in revenge then show such manly courage and vivacity, as they soon after recovered the Castle again, repaying the Hostages in such hostile manner, as that they put them all to the sword without partiality. The position of this Town is by Mercator placed for Latitude 53. degrees 20. minutes; and for Longitude, 9 degrees and 34. minutes. near unto the River that Ptolemy calleth Daucona, and Giraldus Cambrensis (by the alteration of some few letters) nameth Sauranus and Savarenus, which issueth out of Muskerey Mountains, is seated the City Cork, graced also with another Episcopal dignity (and with the Bishops See of Clon annexed unto it) which Giraldus calleth Corragia, the Englishmen Cork, & the native Inhabitants of the Country Coreach. This Town is so beset on every side with neighbouring molesters, as that they are still constrained to keep watch and ward, as if there lay continual siege against it. The Citizens of this place are all linked together in some one or other degree of affinity, for that they dare not match their daughters in marriage into the Country, but make contracts of matrimony one with another among themselves. In this place, that holy and religious man Briock is said to have his birth and breeding, who flourished among the Gauls in that fruitful age of Christianity, and from whom the Diocese of Sanbr●och in Britain Armorua, commonly called S▪ Brieu, had the denomination. (7) The City which the Irish and Britain's call Porthlargy, and the English, Waterford, though it be last in place, yet is it not least in account, as being the second City of all Ireland, as well for the convenience and commodiousness of the Haven, that affords such necessary aptitude for trade and traffic, as also for the faithful loyalty which it hath always showed to the Imperial Crown of England: for ever since it was won by Richard Earl of Pembrook●, it still performed the obedience and peaceable offices of duty and service unto the English, as they continued their course in the conquest of Ireland: whence it is that the Kings of England have from time to time endowed it with many large Franchises and Liberties, which King Henry the seaventh did both augment and confirm. (8) Although since the time of S. Patrick, Christianity was never extinct in this Country, yet the government being haled into contrary factions, the Nobility lawless, and the multitude wilful, it hath come to pass, that Religion hath waxed (with the temporal common sort) more cold and feeble, being most of them very irreligious, and addicted wholly to superstitious observations: for in some parts of this Province, some are of opinion, that certain men are yearly turned into Wolves, and made Wolfe-men. Though this hath been constantly affirmed by such as think their censures worthy to pass for currant and credible; yet let us suppose that happily they be possessed with the disease and malady that the Physicians call Lycanthropy, which begetteth and engendereth such like fantasies through the malicious humours of Melancholy: and so oftentimes men imagine themselves to be turned and transformed into forms which they are not. Some again embrace another ridiculous opinion, and persuade themselves, that he who in the barbarous acclamation and outcry of the Soldiers, which they use with great forcing and straining of their voices, when they join battle, doth not howte and make a noise as the rest do, is suddenly caught from the ground, and carried as it were flying in the air, out of any Country of Ireland, into some desert valleys, where he feedeth upon grass, drinketh water, hath some use of reason, but not of speech, is ignorant of the present condition he stands in, whether good or bad: yet at length shall be brought to his own home, being ●aught with the help of Hounds and Hunters. Great pity that the foul fiend and father of darkness, should so grievously seduce this people with misbelief, and that these errors be not chased away with the truth of Christian Religion, whereby as they carry much grace in their countenances, they may also not be void of the inward grace of their souls and understanding. (9) This Province hath been fore wasted in the rebellions of Desmond, to whose aid Pope Gregory the thirteenth, and Philip King of Spain, sent certain companies of Italians and Spaniards, who arrived not far from Dingle, fortified themselves, & gave it the name of Fort de Ore, founding loud threats against the whole Country. But A●●●ur 〈◊〉 Grey, Lord Deputy of Ireland, at the first onset decided their quarrel, by sheathing his sword in their bowels: and Desmond fearfully flying into the woods, was by a Soldier cut shorter by the head. And again, when the Kingdom of Ireland lay bleeding, and put almost to the hazard of the last cast, Don john D' Aquila, with 8. thousand Spaniards (upon confidence of the excommunications of Pius the fifth, Gregory the thirteenth, & Clement the eight, Popes, all of them discharging their curses like unto thunder bolts against Queen Elizabeth of blessed memory) landed near unto Kinsale presuming that the rebellions of Tyrone had turned the hearts of the Irish for Rome: Sir Charles Blunt Lord Montioy, in the depth of Winter, and with his tired Soldiers, so daunted their Spanish hearts, that with one victory he repressed their bragging boldness, and recovered the Irish that were ready to revolt. (10) God hath oftentimes showed his tender love and affection to this people, in laying his fatherly chastisements and afflictions upon them, sometimes by winds, sometimes by famine and dearth, and sometimes again by opening his hand of plenty into their laps to convert them to himself, and to divert their hearts from superstitions. In the year 1330 about the Feast of Saint john 〈◊〉, there be an such a dea●th of Co●●e in this Country, by the abundance of rain and the inundation of waters (which continued until Michaelmas following) that a Cranoc of Wheat was sold for 〈…〉, a Cranoc of Oats for eight shillings, a Cranoc of Pease, Beanes, and Barley for as much. 〈◊〉 wind●s the same year were so mighty, that many were hurt, and many slain outright by the fall of houses that was forced by the violence of the same. The like whereof were never seen in Ireland. In the year 1317 there was such a dearth of Corn and other victuals, that a Cranoc of Wheat was sold for twenty three shillings. And many Householders, that before time had sustained and 〈◊〉 a great number, were this year driven to beg, and many famished. In the time of which ●●mine, the mercy of God so disposed, that upon the 27. day of june, in the year 1331▪ there came to land such a mighty multitude of great Sea-fish (that is) Thursheds, such as in many ages past had never been seen, that the people were much comforted in this distress, and received great relief and sustenance by the same. (11) Places of Religion in this Country, were the two Abbeys at Yoghall, called the North-Abbey and South-Abbey: The two Abbeys at Limericke, S. Francis Abbey, and S Dominicke Abbey: The two Abbeys at Cork, the Abbey of the I'll, and S. Frances Abbey: and the famous Abbey (in times past) of the holy Cross which hath had many privileges and liberties granted unto it, in honour of a piece of Christ's Cross, that was (as they say) sometimes preserved there. Thus were Christians persuaded in ancient times▪ And it is a wonder in what Troops and Assemblies people do (even yet) conflow thither upon devotion, as unto a place of holiness and sanct●●e; so firmly are they settled in the Religion of their Forefathers, which hath been increased beyond all measure by the negligent care of their Teachers, who should instruct their ignorance, and labour to reduce them from the errors they persevere in. LEINSTER. CHAPTER III. THis Country, the Natives call Leighnigh, the Britain's Lein; in Latin, Lagenia; in the ancient lives of the Saints, Lagen; and in English, Leinster. It lieth Eastward along Hibernicum Sea: on Connaught side Westward it is bounded with the River Shanon; the North with the Territory of Louth, and the South with part of the Province of Monster. This Country butteth upon England, as Monster and Connaught do upon Spain. (2) The form thereof is triangle, and sides not much unequal, from her Southeast unto the West-point about 80. miles, from thence to her North-West about 70. miles, and her East Coast along the Irish Seashore, eighty miles: the circumference upon two hundred and seventy miles. (3) The air is clear and gentle, mixed with a temperate disposition, yielding neither extremity of heat or cold, according to the seasonable times of the year, and the natural condition of the Continent. The soil is generally fruitful, plentiful both in fish and flesh, and in other victuals, as butter, cheese, and mile. It is fertile in Corn, Cattle, and pasture grounds, and would be much more, if the husbandman did but apply his industry, to which he is invited by the commodiousness of the Country. It is well watered with Rivers, and for the most part well woodded, except the County of Divelin, which complains much of that want, being so destitute of wood, that they are compelled to use a clammy kind of fat turf for their fuel, or Sea-coal brought out of England. (4) The Inhabitants of these parts in Ptolemies days were the brigants, Mena●●●, Cauci, and Blain; from which Blani may seem to be derived and contracted the latter and modern names of this Country, Lein, Leighnigh, and Leinster. The Mena●●● (as the name doth after a sort imply) came from the Menapians, a Nation in Low Germany, that dwelled by the Seacoasts. These brigants, ca●●ed also Birgantes, Florianus del Campo (a Spaniard) labours to fetch from the Brigants of his own Country, of whom an ancient City in Spain (called Brigantia) took the name. But they may seem rather to derive their denomination from the River Birgus, about which they inhabited; for to this the very name is almost sufficient to persuade us. (5) The commodities of this Country do chiefly consist in Cattle, Sea-fowle, and Fish. It breeds many excellent good horses, called Irish Hobbies, which have not the same pace that other horses have in their course, but a soft and round amble, setting very easily. (6) This Country hath in it three Rivers of note, termed in old time the three sisters, Shower, Neor, and Barraeo, which issue out of the huge Mountain (called by Giraldus, Bladina Montes) as out of their mother's womb, and from their rising tops descending with a downfall into several Channels, before they empty themselves into the Ocean, join hand in hand all together in a mutual league and combination. (7) Places very dangerous for shipping are certain fiats and shallowes in the Sea, that lie over against Holy-point, which the Mariners call the Grounds. Also the shelves of sand that lie a great way in length opposite to Newcastle, which over-looketh them into the Sea from the top of an high hill adjoining. (8) In this Province are placed many fair and wealthy Towns, as Kilkenny, which for a Burrough-Towne excels all the midland Burroughs in this Island. Kildare, which is adorned with an Episcopal See, and much graced in the first infancy of the Irish Church, by reason of Saint Bridgid a venerable Virgin, had in great account and estimation for her virginity and devotion, as who was the Disciple of S. Patrick of so great fame, renown, and antiquity: Also Weisford (a name given unto it by these Germans, whom the Irish term Oustmans) a Town though inferior to some, yet as memorable as any, for that it became the first Colony of the English, and did first submit itself unto their protection, being assaulted by Fitz Stephen, a Captain worthily made famous for his valour and magnanimity. (9) But the City which fame may justly celebrate alone, beyond all the Cities or Towns in Ireland, is that which we call Divelin, Ptole●ie Eblana, the Latinists Dublinium, and Dublinia; the West-britaines', Dinas Dulm; the English-Saxons in times past, Duplin; and the Irish, Balacleigh, that is, the Town upon hurdles: for it is reported that the place being fennish and moorish, when it first began to be builded, the foundation was laid upon hurdles. (10) That it is ancient, is persuaded by the authority of Ptol●mie. That it was grievously rend and dismembered in the tamultuous wars of the Danes, and brought afterwards under the sub●ection of Eadgar King of England, (which his Charter also confirmeth, wherein he calleth it the noble City of Ireland) is written by Saxon Grammaticus. That it was built by Harold of Norway, which may seem to be Harold Har●ager, when he had brought the greatest part of Ireland into an awful obedience unto him, we read in the life of Griffith ap S●●an Prince of Wales. At length it yielded unto the valour and protection of the English, at their first arrival into Ireland, by whom it was manfully defended from the fierce assaults as well of Auscoulph Prince of the D●blinians, as afterwards of Gottard King of the Isles: since which time it hath still augmented her flourishing estate, and given approved testimony of her faith and loyalty to the Crown of England, in the times of any tumultuous straits and commotions. (11) This is the royal seat of Ireland, strong in her munition, beautiful in her buildings, and (for the quantity) matchable to many other Cities, frequent for traffic and intercourse of Merchants▪ In the East Suburbs, Henry the second, King of England (as H●ueden reporteth) caused a royal Palace to be erected: and Henry Loundres, Archbishop of Divelin, built a Storehouse about the year of Christ 1220. Not far from it is the beautiful College consecrated unto the name of the holy Trinity, which Queen Elizabeth of famous memory dignified with the privileges of an University. The Church of S. Patrick being much enlarged by King john, was by john Coming Archbishop of Dublin, borne at Euesham in England, first ordained to be a Church of Prebends in the year 1191. It doth at this day maintain a Dean, a Chanter, a Chancellor, a Treasurer, two Archdeacon's, and twenty two Prebendaries. This City in times past, for the due administration of Civil Government, had a Provost for the chief Magistrate. But in the year of man's redemption 1409 King Henry the fourth granted them liberty to choose every year a Mayor and two Bailistes, and that the Mayor should have a gilt sword carried before him for ever. And King Edward the sixth (to heap more honour upon this place) changed the two Bailiffs afterwards into Sheriffs: so that there is not any thing here wanting that may serve to make the estate of a City most flourishing. (12) As the people of this County do about the neighbouring parts of Divelin come nearest unto the civil conditions and orderly subjection of the English: so in places farther off they are more tumultuous, being at deadly feuds amongst themselves, committing oft times Manslaughter one upon another, and working their own mischiefs by mutual wrongs: for so the Irish of Leinster wasted Leinster with many Towns in the same Province in the year 1294. And in the year 1301. the men of Leinster in like manner raised a war in the winter season, setting on fire the Town of Wyk●●lo, Rathdon, and others, working their own plague and punishment by burning up their sustenance, and losing their Castle by depredation. (13) Matter of observation, and no less admiration among them, is the Giants dance, commonly so called, and so much talked of, which Merlin is said by Art Magic to have translated out of this Territory unto Salisbury Plaine: which how true it is, I leave to the vain believers of miracles, and to the credulous observers of antiquity. (14) In this County have been erected many famous Monasteries, Abbeys, and religious houses, consecrated to devout and holy purposes: As the Monastery of Saint mary's of Oustmanby, ●ounded for preaching Friars, unto which of late days the judicial Courts of the Kingdom have been translated: also the magnificent Abbey called S. Thomas Court at Dublin, builded and endowed in times passed with many large privileges and revenues of King Henry the second, in expiation of the murder of Thomas Archbishop of Canterbury. Likewise Tiutern Monastery, or the notable Abbey which William marshal Earl of Pembroke founded, and called De roto, for that he had vowed to God (being tossed at Sea with many a sore and dangerous tempest) to erect an Abbey wheresoever he came to land, and being (after shipwreck) cast upon land in this place, he made performance of his vow accordingly. THE PROVINCE OF CONNAUGHT. CHAPTER four THis Province named by Giraldus Cambrensis, Conachtia, and Conacia, by the Irish, Conaughty, and by Englishmen, Connaught: is bounded Eastward, with part of the County of Leinster; Northward, with part of Ulster; Westward, with the West-maine Ocean; and on the South, it is confined with a part of the Province of Monster, closed in with the River Sbennon, and butting against the Kingdom of Spain. (2) The form thereof is long, and towards the North and South ends, thin and narrow; but as it grows towards the middle, from either part it waxeth still bigger and bigger: extending in length from the River Shennon in her South, to Enis Kelling in her North, 126. miles, and the broadest part is from Tromer in her East, to Barragh-Bay in her West, containing about fourscore miles. The whole in circuit and compass is above four hundred miles. (3) The air is not altogether so pure and clear, as in the other Provinces of Ireland, by reason of certain moist places (covered over with grass) which of their softness are usually termed Boghes, both dangerous, and full of vaporous and foggy mists. (4) This County as it is divided into several portions, so is every portion severally commended for the soil, according to the seasonable times of the year. Twomond or the County Clare, is said to be a Country so conveniently situated, that either from the Sea or Soil there can be nothin wished for more, than what it doth naturally afford of itself, were but the industry of the Inhabitants answerable to the rest. Galway is a land very thankful to the painful husbandman, and no less commodious and profitable to the Shepherd. Maio, in the Roman Provincial called Mageo, is replenished both with pleasure and fertility, abundantly rich in Cattle, Dear, Hawks, and plenty of Hony. Slego (coasting upon the Sea) is a plenteous Country for feeding and raising of Cattle. Letrim (a place rising up throughout with hills) is so full of rank grass and forage, that (as Solinus reporteth) if Cattle were not kept sometimes from grazing, their fullness would endanger them. And Rosco●en is a Territory, for the most part plain and fruitful, feeding many Herds of Cattle, and with mean husbandry and tillage, yielding plenty of Corn, As every particular part is thus severally profitable by inbred commodities; so is it no less commended (in the generality) for the many accommodate and fit Bays, Creeks, and navigable Rivers, lying upon her Seacoasts, that after a sort invite and provoke the Inhabitants to navigation. (5) Such as in ancient time made their abode and habitations in this Province, were the GANGANI, who were also called CONCANI, AUTERI, and NAGNATAE. As the Luceni (that were next neighbours unto them) came from the Luceniji (in Spain) so those Gangam and Coneani may seem also to have fetched their derivation from the Concan (Nation of the selfsame Country) both by the affinity of name, and vicinity of place. In Strabo, according to the diversity of reading, the same people are named Coniaci and Conisci: and Silius testifieth them at the first to have been Scythians, and to have used ordinarily to drink horses blood (a thing nothing strange among the wild Irish even of late days.) And some may also happily suppose that the Irish name Conaughty, was compounded of Concani and Nagnatae. Howsoever, it is sure that these were the ancient Inhabitants of this Country, as is to be seen in Ptolemie. (6) The principal City of this Province, and which may worthily be accounted the third in Ireland, is Galway, in Irish, Gallive, built in manner much like to a Tower. It is dignified with a Bishops See, and is much frequented with Merchants, by reason whereof, and the benefit of the Road and Haven, it is gainful to the Inhabitants through traffic and exchange of rich commodities, both by Sea and Island. Not far from which, near the West shore that lies indented with small in-lets and out lets in a row, are the Lands called Arran, of which many a foolish fable goes, as if they were the Lands of the living, wherein none died at any time, or were subject to morality; which is as supersitious an observation, as that used in some other corners of the Country, where the people leave the right arms of their Infant's males vnch●stned (as they term it) to the end that at any time afterwards, they might give a more deadly and ungracious blow when they strike: which things do not only show how palpably they are carried away by traditious obscurities, but do also intimate how full their hearts be of inveterate revenge. (7) This ●ouince presents no matter more worthy of memory, than the battle of Knoe-toe (that is) The ●ull of axes, under which, the greatest rabble of Rebels, that were ever seen before in Ireland (raised and gathered together by the Archrebels of that time, William Burk O Brien, Mac-Nomare, and O-Carrol) were after a bloody overthrow discomfited and put to flight by the noble service of Girald Fitzgerald Earl of ●ildare▪ And the suppression of certain Irish (the posterity of Mac-William) who usurping a tyranny in these parts, raged sometimes upon themselves, with mutual injuries, and oppressed the poor people a long time with extorting, pilling, and spoiling; so as they left scarce one house in the Country unrifled, or unrased; but were bridled and repressed (even in our remembrance) by the severity and resolution of the Commissioner of those their unjust doings, would be a means to draw the people away from the due obedience to their Prince: such therefore as refused to obey the laws, and sided with the tumultuous, with all care and diligence he soon scattered, forcing their Forts, and driving them into woods and lurking holes (for troubling the blessed estate of tranquillity) till the Lord deputy, who took pity of them, upon their humble supplication, commanded by his missives, that they should be received upon terms of peace. But they being a stiffnecked people, took arms again, entered afresh into actual rebellion, drove away booties, made foul uproars, and upon fair promises procured the aid of the Scottish Islanders, from out of the Hebrides: whereupon the Governor assembled an Army, and pursued them with such powerful violence through the Woods and Forests, that after six or seven weeks, being grievously hungerbitten, they submitted themselves in all humility. The Auxiliarie Forces also of the Scots, he by day and night affronted so near, and followed so hardly, that he put them to flight, after he had killed and drowned about three thousand of them in the River Moin. (8) About the year 1316. there was such a great slaughter made of the Irish in this Province of Connaught, through a quarrel that arose there between two Lords or Princes, that there were slain on both sides about four thousand men; and so great a tribulation at that time came upon the people, that they did devour and eat one another, so as of 10000 there remained not above 200. living. And it is reported for truth, that the people were then so hunger-starved, that in Churchyards they took the dead bodies out of their graves, and in their skulls boiled the flesh, and fed upon it: yea, and that women did eat their own children. Thus appeared the ire and anger of God, in punishing their sins, and seeking their conversion. (9) Places memorable, are, Inis Ceath, well known by the Monastery of Colman (a devout Saint) founded for Scots and Englishmen; and Inis Bovind, which Bede calleth, White Calse Isle. Also Ma●o, a Monastery built (as Bede writeth) for thirty men of the English Nation. Likewise the Barony of Boil, under Carlew hills, where in times past was a famous Abbey built, together with the Abbey of Beatitude, in the year of grace 1152: These Abbeys and Monasteries erected at the first for religious services, and through ignorance and other obseurities diverted since unto superstitious uses, are now made the ruins of time. THE PROVINCE OF ULSTER. CHAPTER V. THis Province, called by our Welsh-britaines' Vltw, in Irish Cui Guilly, in Latin Vltonia, and Vlidia, in English Visier; on the North is divided by a narrow Sea from Scotland; southward it extends itself to Connagh and Leinster; the East part lieth upon the Irish Sea; and the West part is continually beaten with the boisterous rage of the main West Ocean. This Province and furthest part of Ireland, affronteth the Scotish Lands, which are called the Hebrides, and are scattered in the Seas between both Kingdoms; whose Inhabitants at this day is the Irish-Scot, successor of the old Scythian. (2) The form thereof is round, reaching in length from Coldagh-haven in her North, to Kilmore in her South, near an hundred miles; and in breadth from Black-Abbey in her East, to Calebegh point in her West, one hundred thirty and odd miles: The whole in circumference, about four hundred and twenty miles. (3) This Country seldom feeleth any unseasonable extremities, the quick and flexible winds cooling the heat of Summer, and soft and gentle showers mollify the hardness of the Winter. Briefly, the frozen nor torrid Zone have not here any usurpation; the clouds in the air very sweet and pleasant, yea, and when they are most impure, are not unwholesome, nor of long continuance, the rough winds holding them in continual agitation. (4) This equal temperature causeth the ground to bring forth great store of several Trees, both fit for building, and bearing of fruit; plentiful of grass for the feeding of Cattle, and is abundantly furnished with Horses, Sheep and Oxen; the Rivers likewise pay double tribute, deep enough to ●arry Vessels either for pleasure or profit, and Fish great store, both for their own uses, and commodity of others. Salmon in some Rivers of this County abound more in number then in any River of Europe. To speak (in general) though in some places it be somewhat barren, troubled with Loughes, Lakes, and thick Woods, yet is it every where fresh, and full of Cattle and forage, ready at all times to answer the husbandman's pains. But nature is there so little beholding to Art or Industry, that the various show upon banks, the shady groves, the green meadows, hanging hills, and fields fit for Corn, (if they were manured) do seem to be angry with their Inhabitants for suffering all to grow wild and barbarous, through their own negligence. (5) This Country in Ptolemies days was wholly possessed by the Volutij, Darni, Robogdji, and Erdini, who branched and spread themselves into the several parts that Island. (6) The people of this Province were accustomed in controversies and solemn protestations, to swear by S. Patrick's Staff, which oath they feared more to break, then if they had sworn by the holy Evangelist▪ Their ancient custom in making their King, was this: A white Cow was taken, which the King must kill, and seeth the same in water whole, then must he bathe himself therein stark naked; and sitting in the Cawdron wherein it was sod, accompanied with his people round about him, he and they used to eat the flesh and drink the broth wherein he sat, without cup, or dish, or use of hand. How far these prescriptions and customs were different from the conformities of other civil Monarchies, we may well perceive by these and other like observations of those gross times, and as yet they are more barbarous than is any other part of the Island besides. (7) Historians relating of Ireland, tell of several Islands in the several Provinces: some full of Angels, some full of Devils; some for male only, some for female; some where none may live, some where none can die; and such effects of trees, stones, and waters, that a man (but of easy conceit) may well esteem them as heedless as uncertain. So also S. Patrick's Purgatory (a thing of much note in the Tract of this Province) is a vault or narrow cave in the ground, 〈…〉 (called Erne Liffer) much spoken of, by reason of (I wot not what) fearful walking spirits and dreadful apparitions, (or rather some religious horror) which (as some ridiculously dream) was digged by Ulysses when he went down to parley with those in hell. This is the cave which the Inhabitants in these days call ●llanu● Frugadory, that is, The Isle of Purgatory, and S. Patrick's Pargatory: for some persons, less devout than credulous, affirm that S. Patrick (or rather Patricius Secundus an holy Abbot of that name) labouring the conversion of the people of this Province, and much enforcing the life to come, they replied contemptuously unto him, that unless they saw proofs of those joys and pains he preached, they would not lose the possession of their present pleasures, in hope or fear of things to come, they wist not when Whereupon (as they say) he obtained at God's hands by earnest prayer, that the punishments and torments which the godless are to suffer after this life, might be there presented to the eye, that so he might more easily root out the sins and Heathenish errors, that stuck so fast in the hearts of the Irish. But touching the credit hereof (although common fame, and some records do utter it) I neither will urge the belief, nor regard, seeing it is no Article of our Creed. (8) Matters memorable within this Province are these: first, that the Bishops of Ireland were wont to be consecrated by the Archbishop of Canterbury in regard of the 〈◊〉 which they had in this Country; until such time as john Pap●●● a Cardinal was sent thither from Pop● Eugenius the fourth, to reform Ecclesiastical discipline in this Island, which 〈…〉 so loo●●, that there were translations, and pluralities of Bishops, according to the 〈◊〉 and pleasure of the Metropolitan▪ Also that the Irishmen were accustomed to leave and forsake 〈◊〉 wedded wives at their own free wills, whereof Lanfrancke Archbishop of Canterbury complained unto Theraelua● a King of Ireland. And had not this Nation been corrupted with this vice, even unto these our days; both the right of lineal succession had been more certain among them, and the Gentry and Commonalty had not in such cruelties imbrued themselves, with such effusion of their own kindred's blood, about their inheritances and legitimation. (9) The principal place in this Tract is Armagh, near unto the River Kalin, which (albeit it maketh a poor show) is the archiepiscopal See and Metropolitan of the whole Island. Before Saint Patrick had built there a fair City, for site, form, quantity, and compass, modelled out (as he saith) by the appointment and direction of Angels, this place was named Drumfalrch; the Irish tell much that it received the name of Queen Armacha: but the better opinions are, that it is the same which Bede calleth Dearmach, and out of the Scotish and Irish language interpreteth it, The Field of Oakes. Here (as S. Bernard writeth) S. Patrick the Apostle of Ireland ruled in his life time, and rested after death: in honour of whom it was of such venerable estimation in old time, that not only Bishops and Priests, but Kings also and Princes were (in general) subject to the Metropolitan thereof in all obedience, and to his government alone. Among the Archbishops of this Province, S. Malachy is famoused, who first prohibited Priests marriage in Ireland, and (as S. Bernard saith, who wrote his life at large) borrowed no more of the native barbarousness of that Country, than Sea-fish do saltness of the Seas. Also Richard Fitz Ralf (commonly called Armachanus) is of famous memory, who turning the edge of his stile, about the year 1355. began to oppose his opinion against the Order of Mendicant Friars, as detesting in Christians such voluntary begging. The chief Fort in this Tract is Enis Kelling, defended by the Rebels in the year 1593. and won by Dowdall a most valiant Captain: near unto which is a great downfall of water, termed The Salmon Leap: of which there is a common speech currant among the Inhabitants, that it was once firm ground very populous and well husbanded with tillage; till it was suddenly over flown with waters, and turned into a Lake, for some filthy abominable acts of the people against Nature committed with beasts. (10) The places of Religion, sequestered from other worldly services, and consecrated to holy purposes, erected in this Province, were: The Abbey which showeth itself at Donegal: The Monastery of Derie, where the Irish Rebel Shane O-N●al received such an overthrow (by Edward Randolph, renowned for his service in the behalf of his Country) that he could never after recover the loss he sustained at that time: The Monastery near unto the River Laffer: The famous Monastery at the Bay of Knockfergus, of the same institution, name, and order, as was that ancient Abbey in England, near unto Chester, called Danchor: Also Mellifont Abbey, founded by Donald a King of Vriel, and much commended by S Bernard: And lastly, the most renowned Monastery, built at Armagh in the year of our Salvation 610. out of which very many Monasteries were afterwards propagate both in Britain and Ireland. These places were far and near frequented and sought unto by great confluences of Pilgrims, till Time proved their devotions to be erroneous, and the pure light of the word revealed, opening the eyes of their understanding, hath taught them to shake off the shame of such Superstitions. (11) That the people of this County might be kept within the bounds of their duty, this Province hath been secured with fifty six Castles and Forts; and for trade of commerce, nine Market-towns appointed, being divided into these Counties ensuing. Counties. Dunghall, or Tyrconnell. Upper Tyrone. Nether Tyrone. Fermanagh. Canan. Monaghan. Colrane. Autrim. down. Armagh. Lough. FINIS. The Table to find the Maps as appeareth by folio. ENgland, Scotland, and Ireland. 1 England. 2 Kent. 3 Sussex. 4 Surrey. 5 Southampton. 6 The Isle of Wight. 7 Dorcetshire. 8 Devon-shire. 9 Cornwall. 10 Somersetshire. 11 Wiltshire. 12 Berkshire. 13 Middlesex. 14 Essex County. 15 Suffolk. 16 Norfolk. 17 Cambridgeshire. 18 Hartfordshire. 19 Bedfordshire. 20 Buckinghamshire. 21 Oxfordshire. 22 Glocestershire. 23 Merefordshire. 24 Worcestershire. 25 Warwickshire. 26 Northamptonshire. 27 Huntingtonshire. 28 Rutlandshire. 29 Leicestershire. 30 Lincolnshire. 31 Nottinghamshire. 32 Darbishire. 33 Staffordshire. 34 Shropshire. 35 Chester. 36 Lancashire. 37 Yorkshire. 38 The Bishopric of Durham. 39 Westmoreland & Cumberland 40 Northumberland. 41 The Isle of Man. 42 Holy 〈…〉 Wales. 44 Pembrokeshire. 45 Radnor, Breknock, Cardigan, and Ca●rmarden described. 46 Glamorganshire. 47 Monmouthshire. 48 Montgomery etc. 49 Denbigh and Flint described. 50 Anglesey and Carnar●an. 51 The Kingdom of Scotland. 52 The Southyart of Scotland. 53 The Southern part of Scotland 54 The Eastern part of Scotland 55 Part of Scotland, Stranavern. 56 The Isles of Hebrides. 57 Cathanes and Orknay. 58 Ireland Described. 59 Monster. 60 Leinster. 61 Connaught. 62 Ulster. 〈◊〉 MIDIA.