THE PENNYLES PILGRIMAGE, OR The Moneyless perambulation, of JOHN TAYLOR, Alias the King's Majesty's Water-Poet.  
HOW HE TRAVAILED ON FOOT from London to Edinburgh in Scotland, not carrying any Money to or fro, neither Begging, Borrowing, or Ask Meat, drink or Lodging.  
With his Description of his Entertainment in all places of his journey, and a true Report of the unmatchable Hunting in the Brea of Marre and Badenoch in Scotland.  
With other Observations, some serious and worthy of Memory, and some merry and not hurtful to be Remembered.  
Lastly that (which is Rare in a travailer) all is true.  
LONDON Printed by Edw: All de, at the charges of the Author. 1618.   

TO THE TRULY NOBLE, AND RIGHT Honourable Lord, GEORGE marquess of Buckingham, Viscount VILLEIRS, Baron of Whaddon, justice in Eyre of all his majesties Forests, Parks, and Chases beyond Trout, Master of the Horse to his Majesty, and one of the Gentlemen of his highness Royal Bedchamber, Knight of the most Noble order of the Garter, and one of his Majesty's most Honourable Privy Council of both the Kingdoms of England and Scotland.  
RIght Honourable, and worthy honoured Lord, as in my Travails, I was Entertained, welcomed, and relieved by many Honourable Lords, Worshipful Knights, Esquires, Gentlemen, and others, both in England, & Scotland. So now your Lordship's Inclination hath incited, or invited my poor Muse to shelter herself under the shadow of your Honourable Patronage, not that there is any worth at all in my sterile invention, but in all Humility I acknowledge that it is only your Lordship's acceptance, that is able to make this nothing, something, and withal engage me ever.  
Your Honours, in all observance: JOHN TAYLOR.   

To all my loving Adventurers, by what name or title so ever, my general salutation.  
REader, these Travails of mine into Scotland, were not undertaken, neither in imitation, or emulation of any man, but only devised by myself, on purpose to make trial of my friends, both in this Kingdom of England, and that of Scotland, and because I would be an eye witness of divers things which I had heard of that Country; and whereas many shallow-brained Critics, do lay an aspersion on me, that I was set on by others, or that I did undergo this project, either in malice, or mockage of Master Benjamin jonson, I vow by the faith of a Christian, that their imaginations are all wide, for he is a Gentleman, to whom I am so much obliged for many undeserved courtesies that I have received from him, and from others by his favour, that I durst never to be so impudent or ingrateful, as either to suffer any man's persuasions, or mine own instigation, to incite me, to make so bad a requital, for so much goodness formerly received; so much for that, and now Reader, if you expect  
That I should write of City's situations,  
Or that of Countries I should make relations:  
Of brooks, crooks, nooks; of rivers, boorns and rills,  
Of mountains, fountains, Castles, Towers & hills,  
Of Shires, and Peers, and memorable things,  
Of lives and deaths of great commanding Kings:  
I touch not those, they not belong to me,  
But if such things as these you long to see,  
Lay down my Book, and but vouchsafe to reed  
The learned Camden, or laborious Speede.  
And so God speed you and me, whilst I rest yours in all thankfulness: JOHN TAYLOR.   

tailors PENNILESS PILGRIMAGE.  
LIst Lordings, list (if you have lust to list)  
I write not here a tale of had I wist:  
But you shall hear of travels, and relations,  
Descriptions of strange (yet English) fashions.  
And he that not believes what here is writ,  
Let him (as I have done) make proof of it.  
The year of grace, accounted (as I ween)  
One thousand, twice three hundred and eighteen,  
And to relate all things in order duly,  
'Twas Tuesday last; the fourteenth day of july,  
Saint Revels day, the Almanac will tell ye  
The sign in Virgo was, or near the belly:  
The Moon full three days old, the wind full South;  
At these times I began this trick of youth.  
I speak not of the Tide; for understand,  
My legs I made my Oars, and rowed by land,  
Though in the morning I began to go,  
Good fellows trooping, flocked me so,  
That make what hast I could, the Sun was set,  
ere from the gates of London I could get.  
At last I took my latest leave, thus late  
At the Bell Inn, that's extra Aldersgate.  
There stood a horse that my provant should carry,  
From that place to the end of my fegary,  
My Horse, no Horse, or Mare, but gelded Nag,  
That with good understanding bore my bag:  
And of good carriage he himself did show,  
These things are excellent in a beast, you know.  
There, in my Knapsack, (to pay hungers fees)  
I had good Bacon, Biscuit, Neates-tongue, Cheese,  
With Roses, Barbaries, of each Conserves,  
And Mithridate, that vigrous health preserves;  
And I entreat you take these words for no-lyes,  
I had good Aqua vita, Rosa so-lies:  
With sweet Ambrosia, (the Gods own drink)  
Most excellent gear for mortals, as I think.  
Besides, I had both vinegar and oil,  
That could a daring saucy stomach foil.  
This foresaid Tuesday night 'twixt eight and nine,  
Well rigged and ballaced, both with Beer and Wine,  
I stumbling forward, thus my jaunt begun,  
And went that night as far as Islington.  
There did I find, (I dare affirm it bold)  
A Maidenhead of twenty five years old,  
But surely it was painted, like a whore,  
And for a sign, or wonder, hanged at ' door,  
Which show, a Maidenhead, that's kept so long,  
May be hanged up, and yet sustain no wrong.  
There did my loving friendly Host begin  
To entertain me freely to his Inn:  
And there my friends, and good associates,  
Each one to mirth himself accommodates.  
At Well head both for welcome, and for cheer,  
Having a good New ton, of good stale Beer:  
There did we Trundle down health, after health  
(Which oftentimes impairs both health and wealth.)  
Till every one had filled his mortal Trunk,  
And only Nobody was three parts drunk.  
The morrow next, Wednesday Saint Swithins day,  
From ancient Islington I took my way.  
At Hollywell I was enforced carouse,  
Ale high, and mighty, at the Blinde-mans' house.  
But there's a help to make amends for all,  
That though the Ale be great, the Pots be small.  
At Highgate hill to a strange house I went,  
And saw the people were to eating bend,  
I neither Borrowed, Craved, Asked, Begged or Bought,  
But most laborious with my teeth I wrought.  
I did not this cause meat or drink was scant,  
But I did practise thus before my want;  
Like to a Tilter that would win the prize,  
Before the day he'll often excercise.  
So I began to put in ure, at first  
These principles against hunger, and against thirst,  
Close to the Gate, their dwelled a worthy man,  
That well could take his whiff, and quaff his Can,  
Right Robin Goodfellow, but humours evil  
Do call him Robin Pluto, or the Devil.  
But finding him a Devil, freely hearted,  
With friendly farewells I took leave and parted.  
And as alongst I did my journey take,  
I drank at Broomes-well, for pure fashions sake.  
Two miles I traveled then, without a bait,  
The Saracens head at Whetstone entering strait,  
I found an Host, might lead an Host of men,  
Exceeding Fat, yet named Lean, and Few,  
And though we make small reckoning of him here,  
he's known to be a very Great man there.  
There I took leave, of all my Company,  
Bade all farewell, yet spoke to Nobody.  
Good Reader think not strange, what I compile,  
For Nobody was with me all this while.  
And Nobody did drink, and wink, and scinke,  
And on occasion freely spend his Chink.  
If any one desire to know the man,  
walk, stumble, Trundle, but in Barbican.  
there's as good Beer and Ale as ever twanged,  
And in that street kind Nobody is hanged,  
But leaving him, unto his matchless fame,  
I to St. Albans in the Evening came,  
Where Mr. Taylor, at the Saracens head,  
Unasked (unpaid for) me both lodged and said.  
The Tapsters, Ostlers, Chamberlains, and all,  
Saved me a labour, that I need not call,  
The judges were filled and filled, the cups went round,  
And in a word great kindness there I found,  
For which both to my cozen, and his men,  
I'll still be thankful in word, deed, and pen.  
Till Thursday morning there I made my stay,  
And then I went plain Dunstable highway.  
My very heart with drought me thought did shrink,  
I went twelve miles, and no one bade me drink.  
Which made me call to mind, that instant time,  
That Drunkenness was a most sinful crime.  
When Puddle-hill I footed down, and past  
A mile from thence I found a Hedge at last.  
There struck we sail, our Bacon, Cheese and Bread  
We drew like Fiddlers, and like Farmers fed,  
And whilst 2. hours we there did take out ease,  
My Nag made shift to mump green Pulse and Pease.  
Thus we our hungry stomachs did supply,  
And drank the water of a Brook hard by.  
A way t'ward Hockley in the hole, we make,  
When strait a horseman did me overtake,  
Who knew me, and would sane have given me Coin,  
I said my Bonds did me from Coin enjoin.  
I thanked and prayed him to put up his Chink,  
And willingly I wished it drowned in drink.  
Away Road he, but like an honest man,  
I found at Hockley standing at the Swan,  
A formal Tapster, with a jug and glass,  
Who did Arrest me, I most willing was  
To try the Action, and strait put in bale,  
My fees were paid before, with sixpences Ale.  
To quit this kindness, I most willing am  
The man that paid for all, his name is Dam  
At the green Dragon, against Grayes-Iune gate,  
He lives in good Repute, and honest state.  
I forward went in this my Roving race,  
To Stony Stratford I toward night did pace,  
My mind was fixed through the Town to pass,  
To find some Lodging in the Hay or Grass,  
But at the Queen's Arms from the window there,  
A comfortable voice I chanced to hear,  
Call Tailor, Taylor and be hanged come hither,  
I looked for small entreaty and went thither,  
There were some friends, which I was glad to see,  
Who knew my journey; lodged, and boarded me.  
On Friday morn, as I would take my way,  
My friendly Host entreated me to stay,  
Because it Reigned he told me I should have,  
Meat, Drink, and Horse-meat and not pay or crave.  
I thanked him, and for's love remain his debtor,  
But if I live, I will requite him better.  
(From Stony Stratford, the way hard with stones)  
Did founder me, and vex me to the bones,  
In blustering weather, both for wind and Rain,  
Through Tocetter I trotted, with much pain,  
Two miles from thence, we sat us down and bind,  
Well Bulwarked by a hedge, from rain and wind.  
We having fed, away incontinent,  
With weary pace toward Daventry we went,  
Four miles short of it, one o'ertook me there,  
And told me he would leave a jug of Beer,  
At Daventry at the Horse-shoe, for my use,  
I thought it no good manners to refuse,  
But thanked him, for his kind unasked gift,  
Whilst I was lame as scarce a leg could lift,  
Came ilmping after to that stony Town,  
Whose hard streets, made me almost halt tied down.  
There had my friend performed the words he said,  
And at the door a jug of liquor staid  
The folks were all informed, before I came,  
How, and wherefore my journey I did frame,  
Which caused mine Hostess from her door come out,  
(having a great Wart Rampant on her snout.)  
The Tapsters, Ostlers, one another call,  
The Chamberlains with admiration all,  
Were filled with wonder, more than wonderful,  
As if some Monster sent from the Mogul,  
Some Elephant from Africa, I had been,  
Or some strange beast from th' Amazonian Queen.  
As Buzzards, Widgions, Woodcocks, and such fowl,  
Do gaze and wonder at the broad-faced Owl,  
So did these brainless Asses, allamazed,  
With admirable Non sense talked and gazed.  
They knew my state, (although not told by me,)  
That I could scarcely go, they all did see,  
They drank of my Beer, that to me was given,  
But gave me not a drop, to make all even.  
And that which in my mind was most amiss,  
My Hostess she stood by and saw all this,  
Had she but said, come near the house my friend,  
For this day here shall be your journeys end,  
Then had she done, the thing which she did not,  
And I in kinder words had paid the shot.  
I do entreat my friends, (as I have some)  
If they to Daventry do chance to come,  
That they will baulk that Inn; or if by chance,  
Or accident into that house they glance,  
Kind Gentlemen, as they by you reap profit,  
My hostess Care of me, pray tell her of it.  
Yet do not neither, Lodge there when you will,  
You for your money shall be welcome still.  
From thence that night, although my bones were sore,  
I made a shift to hobble seven miles more:  
The way to Dunchurch, foul with dirt and mire,  
Able, I think, both man and horse to tyre.  
On Dunsmore Heath, a hedge doth there enclose  
Grounds, on the right hand, there I did repose.  
Wit's whetstone, want, there made us quickly learn,  
With knives to cut down Rushes, and green Fern,  
Of which we made a field-bed in the field,  
Which fleepe, and rest, and much content did yield.  
There with my mother Earth, I thought it fit  
To lodge, and yet no Incest did commit:  
My bed was Curtained with good wholesome airs,  
And being weary, I went up no stairs:  
The sky my Canopy, bright Pheabe shined,  
Sweet bawling Zephyrus breathed gentle wind,  
In heavens Star Chamber I did lodge that night,  
Ten thousand Stars, me to my bed did light;  
There barricaded with a bank lay we  
Below the lofty branches of a tree,  
There my bedfellows and companions were,  
My Man, my Horse, a Bull, four Cows, two steer:  
But yet for all this most confused rout,  
We had no bed-staves, yet we fell not out,  
Thus Nature, like an ancient free Upholster,  
Did furnish us with bedstead, bed, and bolster;  
And the kind skies, (for which high Heaven be thanked,  
Allowed us a large Covering and a Blanket:  
Aurora's face 'gan light our lodging dark.  
We arose and mounted, with the mounting Lark,  
Through plashes, puddles, thick, thin, wet and dry,  
I travailed to the City Coventry.  
There Master Doctor Holland caused me stay  
The day of Saturn, and the Sabaoth day.  
Most friendly welcome, he did me afford,  
I was so entertained at bed and board,  
Which as I dare not brag how much it was,  
I dare not be ingrate and let it pass,  
But with thanks many I remember it  
(In stead of his good deeds) in words and writ,  
He used me like his son, more than a friend,  
And he on Monday his commends did send  
To Newhall, where a Gentleman did dwell,  
Who by his name is height Sacheverell.  
The Tuesday julyes' one and twentieth day,  
I to the City Lichfield took my way,  
At Sutton Coffill with some friends I met,  
And much ado I had from thence to get,  
There I was almost put unto my trumps,  
My Horse's shoes were worn as thin as pumps;  
But noble Vulcan, a mad smuggy Smith,  
All reparations me did furnish with.  
The shoes were well removed, my Palfrey shod,  
And he referred the payment unto God.  
I found a friend, when I to Lichfield came,  
A joiner, and john Piddock is his name,  
He made me welcome, for he knew my jaunt,  
And he did furnish me with good provant:  
He offered me some money, I refused it,  
And so I took my leave, with thanks excused it.  
That Wednesday I a weary way did pass,  
Rain, wind, stones, dirt, and dabbling dewy grass,  
With here and there a pelting scattered village,  
Which yielded me no charity, or pillage:  
For all the day, nor yet the night that followed,  
One drop of drink I'm sure my gullet swallowed.  
At night I came t'a stony Town called Stone,  
Where I knew none, nor was I known of none:  
I therefore through the streets held on my pace,  
Some two miles farther to some resting place:  
At last I spied a meadow newly mowde,  
The Hay was rotten, the ground half o're-flowde:  
We made a breach, and entered horse and man,  
There our pavilion, we to pitch began,  
Which we erected with green Broome and Hay  
T'expel the cold, and keep the rain away;  
The sky all muffled in a cloud 'gan lower,  
And presently there sell a mighty shower,  
Which without intermission down did power,  
From ten at night, until the morning's four.  
We all that time close in our Couch did lie,  
Which being well compacted, kept us dry.  
The worst was, we did neither sup nor sleep,  
And so a temperate diet we did keep.  
The morning all enroabed in drizzling fogs,  
We being as ready as we had been dogs:  
We need not stand upon long ready making,  
But gaping, stretching, and our ears well shaking:  
And for I found my Host and Hostess kind,  
I like a true man left my sheets behind.  
That Thursday morn, my weary course I framed,  
Unto a Town that is Newcastle named,  
(Not that Newcastle standing upon Tine)  
But this towns situation doth confine  
Near Cheshiere, in the famous County Stafford,  
And for their love, I owe them not a straw for't;  
But now my versing Muse craves some repose,  
And whilst she sleeps I'll spout a little prose.  
In this Town of Newcastle, I overtook an Ostler, and I asked him what the next town was called, that was in my way toward Lancaster, he holding the end of a riding rod in his mouth, as if it had been a Fluit, piped me this answer, and said, Talk on the hill; I asked him again what he said, Talk on the hill: I demanded the third time, and the third time he answered me as he did before, Talk on the hill. I began to grow choleric, and asked him why he could not talk, or tell me my way as well there, as on the hill; at last I was resolved, that the next Town was four miles off me, and the name of it was, Talk on the hill. I had not travailed above two miles farther: but my last night's supper (which was as much as nothing) my mind being informed of it by my stomach. I made a virtue of necessity, and went to breakfast in the sun: I have sared better at three suns many a time before now, in Aldersgate street, Creeplegate, and new Fish-street; but here is the odds, at those Suns they will come upon a man with a Tavern bill, as sharp cutting as a tailors bill of Items: A Watchman's blil, or a Welch-hooke falls not half so heavy upon a man; beside, most of the Vintners have the law in their own hands, and have all their Actions, Cases, Bills of Debt, and such Reckonings tried at their own Bars; from whence there is no appeal. But leaving these impertinencies, in the material Sunne-shiee, we eat a substantial Dinner, and like miserable Guests we did budget up the Reversions.  
And now with sleep, my Muse hath eased her brain.  
I'll turn my style from prose, to verse again.  
That which we could not have, we freely spared,  
And wanting drink, most soberly we fared.  
We had great store of fowl (but 'twas foul way)  
And kindly every step entreats me stay,  
The clammy clay sometimes my heels would trip,  
One foot went forward, th'other back would slip.  
This weary day, when I had almost past,  
I came unto Sir Vrian Legh's at last,  
At Adlington, near Macksfield he doth dwell,  
Beloved, respected, and reputed well.  
Through his great love, my stay with him was fixed,  
From Thursday night, till noon on Monday next,  
At his own table I did daily eat,  
Whereat may be supposed, did want no meat,  
He would have given me Gold or Silver either,  
But I with many thanks, received neither.  
And thus much without flattery I dare swear,  
He is a Knight beloved far and near.  
First he's beloved of his God above,  
(which love, he loves to keep, beyond all love)  
Next with a Wife and Children he is blest,  
Each having Gods fear planted in their breast.  
With fair Demaines, Revenue of good Lands,  
he's fairly blest by the Almighty's hands,  
And as he's happy in these outward things,  
So from his inward mind, continual springs  
Fruits of Devotion, deeds of Piety,  
Good hospitable works of Charity,  
Just in his Actions, Constant in his word,  
And one that won his honour with his sword.  
he's no Carranto, Capr'ing, Carpet Knight,  
But he knows when, and how to speak or fight.  
I cannot flatter him, say what I can,  
he's every way a complete Gentleman.  
I write not this, for what he did to me,  
But what mine ears, and eyes did hear and see,  
Nor do I pen this to enlarge his fame,  
But to make others Imitate the same.  
For like a Trumpet were I pleased to blow,  
I would his worthy worth more amply show,  
But I already fear have been too bold,  
And crave his pardon, me excused to hold.  
Thanks to his Sons and servants every one,  
Both males and females all, excepting none.  
To bear a letter he did me require,  
Near Manchester, unto a good Esquire:  
His kinsman Edmond Prestwitch, he ordained,  
That I at Manchester was Entertained  
Two nights, and one day, ere we thence could pass,  
For Men and Horse, roast, boiled, and Oats, and Grass:  
This Gentleman, not only gave me harbour,  
But in the morning sent to me his Barber,  
Who laved, and shaved me, still I spared my purse,  
Yet sure he left me many a hair the worse.  
But in conclusion, when his work was ended,  
His Glass informed, my face was much amended.  
And for the kindness he to me did show,  
God grant his Customers beards faster grow,  
That though the time of year be dear or cheap,  
From fruitful faces he may mow and reap.  
Then came a Smith, with Shoes, and Tooth and Nail,  
He searched my Horse hooves, mending what did fail,  
Yet this I note, my Nag, through stones and dirt,  
Did shift shoes twice, ere I did shift one shirt:  
Can these kind things be in oblivion hid?  
No, Mr. Prestwitch, this and much more did,  
His friendship did command, and freely gave  
All before writ, and more than I durst crave.  
But leaving him a little, I must tell,  
How men of Manchester, did use me well,  
Their loves they on the tenterhooks did rack,  
roast, Boiled, Baked, too too much, White, Claret, Sack,  
Nothing they thought too heavy or too hot,  
Can followed Can, and Pot succeeded Pot,  
That what they could do, all they thought too little,  
Striving in love the traveler to whittle.  
We went unto the house of one john Pinner's,  
(A man that lives amongst a crew of Sinners)  
And there Eight several sorts of Ale we had,  
All able to make one stark drunk or mad.  
But I with courage bravely flinched not,  
And gave the Town leave to discharge the shot.  
We had at one time set upon the Table,  
Good Ale of hyssop, 'twas no Esope Fable:  
Then had we Ale of Sage, and Ale of Malt,  
And Ale of Wormwood, that can make one halt,  
With Ale of Rosemary, and betony,  
And two Ales more, or else I needs must lie.  
But to conclude this drinking A lie tale,  
We had a sort of Ale, called Scurvy Ale.  
Thus all these men, at their own charge and cost,  
Did strive whose love might be expressed most.  
And farther to declare their boundless loves,  
They saw I wanted, and they gave me Gloves,  
In deed, and very deed, their loves were such,  
That in their praise I cannot write too much;  
They merit more than I have here compiled,  
I Lodged at the Eagle and the Child,  
Whereas my Hostess, (a good Ancient woman)  
Did entertain me with respect, not common.  
She caused my Linen, Shirts, and Bands be washed,  
And on my way she caused me be refreshed,  
She gave me twelve Silk points, she gave me Baken,  
Which by me much refused, at last was taken,  
In troth she proved a mother unto me,  
For which, I evermore will thankful be.  
But when to mind these kindnesses I call,  
Kind Mr. Prestwitch Author is of all,  
And yet Sr. Vrian Leigh's good Commendation  
Was the main ground of this my Recreation.  
From both of them; there what I had, I had,  
Or else my entertainment had been bad.  
O all you worthy men of Manchester,  
True bred bloods of the County Lancaster)  
When I forget what you to me have done,  
Then let me headlong to confusion run.  
To Noble Mr. Prestwach I must give  
Thanks, upon thanks, as long as I do live,  
His love was such, I ne'er can pay the score,  
He far surpassed all that went before,  
A horse and man he sent, with boundless bounty,  
To bring me quite through Lancaster's large County.  
Which I well know is Fifty miles at large,  
And he defrayed all the Cost and charge.  
This unlooked pleasure, was to me such pleasure,  
That I can ne'er express my thanks with measure.  
So Mistress Saracoale, Hostess kind,  
And Manchester with thanks I left behind.  
The Wednesday being julyes' twenty nine,  
My journey I to Preston did Confine,  
All the day long it rained but one shower,  
Which from the Morning to the Ene'n did power,  
And I, before to Preston I could get,  
Was sowsd, and pickled both with Rain and sweat.  
But there I was supplied, with fire and food,  
And any thing I wanted, sweet and good.  
There, at the Hind, kind Mr. Hind mine Host,  
Kept a good table, Baked and boiled, and roast,  
There Wedensday, Thursday, Friday I did stay,  
And hardly got from thence on Saturday.  
Unto my Lodging often did repair,  
Kind Mr. Thomas Banister, the Mayor,  
Who is of worship, and of good Respect,  
And in his Charge discreet and circumspect.  
For I protest to God I never saw,  
A Town more wisely Governed by the Law.  
They told me when my Sovereign there was last,  
That one man's rashness, seemed to give distaste▪  
It grieved them all, but when at last they found,  
His Majesty was pleased, their joys were crowned,  
He knew the fairest Garden hath some weeds,  
He did accept their kind intents, for deedess  
One man there was, that with his zeal too hot.  
And furious haste, himself much over▪ shot.  
But what man is so foolish, that desires  
To get good Fruit, from thistles, thorns and briars?  
Thus much I thought good to demonstrate here,  
Because I saw how much they grieved were.  
That any way, the least part of offence,  
Should make them seem offensive to their Prince.  
Thus three nights was I staid and lodged in Preston,  
And saw nothing ridiculous to jest on,  
Much cost and charge the Mayor upon me spent,  
And on my way two miles, with me he went,  
There (by good chance) I did more friendship get,  
The under Sheriff of Lancashire, we met,  
A Gentleman that loved, and knew me well,  
And one whose bounteous mind doth bear the bell.  
There, as if I had been a noted thief,  
The Mayor delivered me unto the Sheriff.  
The Shreive's authority did much prevail,  
He sent me unto one that kept the jail.  
Thus I perambulating, poor john Taylor,  
Was given from Mayor to Sheriff, from Sheriff to jailor,  
The jailor kept an Inn, good beds, good cheer,  
Where paying nothing, I found nothing dear.  
For the under Sheriff kind Master Covill named,  
(A man for housekeeping renowned and famed)  
Did cause the Town of Lancaster afford  
Me welcome, as if I had been a Lord.  
And 'tis reported, that for daily bounty,  
His mate can scarce be found in all that County.  
Th'extremes of miser, or of prodigal  
He shuns, and lives discreet and liberal,  
His wives mind, and his own are one, so fixed,  
That Argos eyes could see no odds betwixt,  
And sure the difference, (if there difference be)  
Is who shall do most good, or he, or she.  
Poor folk's reports, that for relieving them,  
He and his wife, are each of them a gem;  
At th'inn, and at his house two nights I staid,  
And what was to be paid, I know he paid;  
If nothing of their kindness I had wrote,  
Ingrateful me the world might justly note:  
Had I declared all I did hear and see,  
For a great flatterer than I deemed should be,  
He and his wife, and modest daughter Bess,  
With Earth and heavens felicity, God bless.  
Two days a man of his at his command,  
Did guide me to the midst of Westmoreland,  
And my Conductor, with a liberal fist  
To keep me moist, scarce any Alehouse mist.  
The fourth of August (weary, halt, and lame)  
We in the dark, t a Town called Sebder came,  
There Master Borrowed, my kind honest Host,  
Upon me did bestow unasked cost.  
The next day I held on my journey still,  
Six miles unto a place called Carling hill,  
Where Master Edmond Branthwaite doth reside,  
Who made me welcome, with my man and guide.  
Our entertainment, and our fare was such,  
It might have satisfied our betters much;  
Yet all too little was, his kind heart thought,  
And five miles on my way himself me brought,  
At Orton he, I, and my man did dine  
With Master Corney, a good true Divine,  
And surely Master Branthwait's well beloved,  
His firm integrity is much approved:  
His good effects, doth make him still affected  
Of God and good men, (with regard) respected.  
He sent his man with me, o'er Dale and Downe,  
Who lodged, and boarded me at Peereth Town,  
And such good cheer, and bedding there I had,  
That nothing, (but my weary self) was bad;  
There a fresh man, (I know not for whose sake)  
With me a journey would to Carlisle make;  
But from that City, about two miles wide  
Good Sir john Dalston lodged me and my guide.  
Of all the Gentlemen in England bounds,  
His house is nearest to the Scottish grounds,  
And Fame proclaims him, far and near, aloud,  
He's free from being covetous, or proud:  
His son Sir George, most affable, and kind,  
His father's image, both in form and mind:  
On Saturday to Carlisle both did ride,  
Where (by their loves and leaves) I did abide,  
Where of good entertainment I found store,  
From one that was the Mayor the year before,  
His name is Master Adam Robinson,  
I the last English friendship with him won.  
He (gratis) found a guide to bring me through, 
My thanks to Sir john & S. George Dalstone, with Sir Hen: Gurwin   
From Carlisle to the City Edinborough:  
This was a help, that was a help alone,  
Of all my helps inferior unto none.  
Fight miles from Carlisle runs a little River,  
Which England's bounds, 
Over Eskl waded.  from Scotland's grounds doth sever.  
Without Horse, Bridge, or Boat I o'er did get  
On foot, I went yet scarce my shoes did wet.  
I being come to this long looked for land,  
Did mark, remark, note, renote, viewed and scanned:  
And I saw nothing that could change my will,  
But that I thought myself in England still.  
The Kingdoms are so nearly joined and fixed,  
There scarcely went a pair of shears betwixt;  
There I saw sky above, and earth below,  
And as in England, there the Sun did show:  
The hills with Sheep replete, 
The afore named Knights had given money to my Guile of which he left some part at every Ale-hoose.  with Corn the dale,  
And many a cottage yielded good Scotch Ale;  
This County (Avandale) in former times,  
Was the cursed climate of rebellious crimes:  
For Cumberland and it, both kingdoms borders,  
Were ever ordered, by their own disorders,  
Such shaking, shifting, cutting throats, and thieving,  
Each taking pleasure, in the others grieving;  
And many times he that had wealth to night,  
Was by the morrow morning beggared quite:  
To many years this pellmell fury lasted,  
That all these borders were quite spoiled and wasted,  
Confusion, hurly burly reigned and reveld,  
The Churches with the lowly ground were leveled;  
All memorable monuments defaced,  
All places of defence o'erthrown and razed.  
That who so then did in the borders dwell,  
Lived little happier than those in hell.  
But since the all-disposing God of heaven,  
Hath these two Kingdoms to one Monarch given,  
Blessed peace, and plenty on them both hath showered  
Exile, and hanging hath the thieves devoured,  
That now each subject may securely sleep,  
His Sheep, and neat, the black the white doth keep,  
For now those Crowns are both in one combined  
Those former borders, that each one confined,  
Appears to me (as I do understand)  
To be almost the Centre of the land,  
This was a blessed heaven expounded riddle,  
To thrust great Kingdoms skirts into the middle.  
Long may the instrumental cause survive  
From him and his, succession still derive  
True heirs unto his virtues, and his throne,  
That these two Kingdoms ever may be one.  
This County of all Scotland is most poor,  
By reason of the outrages before,  
Yet mighty store of Corn I saw there grow,  
And as good grass as ever man did mow:  
And as that day I twenty miles did pass,  
I saw eleven hundred Neat at grass,  
By which may be conjectured at the least,  
That there was sustenance for man and beast.  
And in the Kingdom I have truly scanned,  
There's many worse parts, are better manned,  
For in the time that thieving was in ure,  
The Gentles fled to places more secure.  
And left the poorer sort, t'abide the pain,  
Whilst they could ne'er find time to turn again.  
That Shire of Gentlemen is scarce and dainty,  
Yet there's relief in great abundance plenty,  
Twixt it and England, little odds I see,  
They eat, and live, and strong and able be,  
So much in Verse, and now I'll change my style,  
And seriously I'll write in Prose a while.  
To the purpose then; my first night's Lodging in Scotland was at a place called Mophot, which they say is thirty miles from Carlisle, but I suppose them to be longer than forty of such miles as are betwixt London and S. Albans, (but indeed the Scots do allow almost as large measure of their miles, as they do of their drink, for an English Gallon either of Ale or Wine, is but their quart, and one Scottish mile now and then may well stand for a mile and a half or two English) but howsoever short or long, I found that days journey the weariest that ever I footed; and at night being come to the Town, I found good ordinary Country entertainment; my fare, and my lodging was sweet and good, and might have served a far better man than myself, although myself have had many times better: but this is to be noted, that though it Reigned not all the day, yet it was my fortune to be well wet twice, for I waded over a great River called Eske in the morning, somewhat more than 4. miles' distance from Carlisle in England, and at night within two miles of my lodging, I was fain to wade over the River of Annan in Scotland, from which River the County of Annandale hath its name. And whilst I waded on foot, my man was mounted on horseback, like the George without the Dragon. But the next morning, I arose and left Mophot behind me, and that day I travailed twenty one miles to a sorry Village called Blithe, but I was blithe myself to come to any place of harbour or succour, for since I was borne, I never was so weary, or so near being dead with extreme travel; I was foundered and refounderd of all four, and for my better comfort, I came so late, that I must lodge without door all night, or else in a poor house where the good wife lay in Childbed, her husband being from home, her own servant Maid being her nurse. A Creature naturally compacted and artificially adorned with incomparable homeliness; but as things were I must either take or leave, and necessity made me enter, where we got Eggs and Ale by measure and by tale. At last to bed I went, my man lying on the floor by me, where in the night there were Pigeons did very bountifully mute in his face: the day being no sooner come, and I having but fifteen miles to Ederborough, mounted upon my ten toes, and began first to hobble, and after to Amble, and so being warm, I fell to pace by degrees; all the way passing through a most plentiful, and fertile Country for Corn and Cattle: and about two of the clock in the afternoon that Wednesday, being the thirteenth of August, and the day of Clare the Virgin (the Sign being in Virgo) the Moon four days old, the wind at, West, I came to take rest, at the wished, long expected, Ancient famous City of Edinburgh, which I entered like pierce penniless, altogether monyles, but I thank God not friendless; for being there, for the time of my stay I might borrow, (if any man would lend) spend if I could get, beg if I had the impudence, and steal if I durst adventure the price of a hanging, but my purpose was to house my horse, and to suffer him and my Apparel to Lie in durance, or Lavender in stead of Litter, till such time, as I could meet with some valiant friend that would desperately disburse.  
Walking thus down the street, (my body being tired with Travel, and my mind attired with moody, muddy, More-ditch melancholy) my Contemplation did devoutly pray, that I might meet one or other to prey upon, being willing to take any slender acquaintance of any man whatsoever, viewing, and circumuiewing every man's face I met, as if I meant to draw his picture, but all my acquaintance was Non est inventus, (pardon me Reader, that Latin is none of mine own, I swear by Priscian's Pericranion, an oath which I have ignorantly broken many times.) At last I resolved, that the next Gentleman that I met withal, should be acquaintance whether he would or no, and presently fixing mine eyes upon a Gentlemanlike object, I looked on him as if I would survey something through him, and make him my perspective: and he much musing at my gazing, and I much gazing at his musing, at last he crossed the way and made toward me, and then I made down the street from him, leaving him to encounter with my man who came after me leading my Horse, whom he thus Accosted. My friend (quoth he) doth yonder Gentleman, (meaning me) know me that he looks so wistly on me; truly Sr. said my man I think not, but my Mr. is a stranger come from London, and would gladly meet with some acquaintance to direct him where he may have lodging and horse-meat: presently the Gentleman, (being of a generous disposition) overtook me with unexpected and undeserved courtesy, brought me to a lodging, and caused my Horse to be put into his own Stable, whilst we discoursing over a pint of Spanish. I related as much English to him as made him lend me Ten shillings, (his name was Mr. john Maxwell) which money I am sure was the first that I handled after I came from out the walls of London: but having rested two hours and refreshed myself, the Gentleman and I walked to see the City, and the Castle, which as my poor unable and unworthy pen can, I will truly describe.  
The Castle on a lofty Rock is so strongly grounded, bounded, and founded, that by force of man it can never be confounded; the Foundation and Walls are unpenetrable, the rampires Impregnable, the Bulwarks Invincible, no way but one to it is or can be possible to be made passable. In a word, I have seen many straits and Fortresses, in Germany, the Netherlands, Spain, and England, but they must all give place to this unconquered Castle both for strength and Situation.  
Amongst the many memorable things which I was showed there, I noted especially a Great piece of Ordinance of Iron, it is not for battery, but it will serve to defend a breach, or to toss balls of wildfire against any that should assail or assault the Castle; it lies now dismounted. And it is so great within, that it was told me that a Child was once gotten there, but I to make trial crept into it, lying on my back, and I am sure there was Room enough and spare for a greater than myself.  
So leaving the Castle, as it is both defencive against any opposition, and magnific for Lodging and receit, I descend lower to the City, wherein I observed the fairest and goodliest Street that ever mine eyes beheld, for I did never see or hear of a street of that length, (which is half an English mile from the Castle to a fair Port which they call the Neather-bow) and from that Port the street which they call the Kenny-hate is one quarter of a mile more: down to the King's Palace called Holy-rood-House, The buildings on each side of the way being all of squared stone, five, six, and seven Stories high, and many by Lanes and Closes on each side of the way, wherein are gentlemen's houses, much fairer than the buildings in the high street, for in the High-street the Merchants and Tradesmen do dwell, but the gentlemen's mansions and goodliest Houses are obscurely founded in the aforesaid Lanes: the Walls are eight or ten Foot thick, exceeding strong, not built for a day, a week, or a month, or a year; but from Antiquity to Posterity, for many Ages; There I found entertainment beyond my expectation or merit, and there is Fish, Flesh, Bread and Fruit, in such variety, that I think I may offenceless call it superfluity, or satiety. The worst was, that Wine and Ale was so scarce, and the people there such Miser's of it, that every night before I went to bed, if any man had asked me a Civil question, all the wit in my head could not have made him a Sober answer.  
I was at his majesties Palace, a Stately and princely seat, wherein I saw a sumptuous Chapel most richly adorned, with all appurtenances belonging to so sacred a place, or so Royal an owner. In the inner Court, I saw the King's Arms cunningly carved in stone, and fixed over a door aloft on the wall, the red Lion being the Crest, over which was written this inscription in Latin, 
Nobis haec invicta miserunt, 105. proavi.  I inquired what the English of it was? it was told me as followeth, which I thought worthy to be recorded. 
106. Forefathers hath left this to us unconquered.  This is a worthy and a memorable Motto, and I think few Kingdoms or none in the world can truly write the like, that notwithstanding so many inroads▪ incursions, attempts, assaults, civil wars, and foreign hostilities, bloody battles, and mighty fought fields, that maugre the strength and policy of enemies, that Royal Crown and Sceptre hath from one hundred and seven descents, keep still unconquered, and by the power of the King of Kings (through the grace of the Prince of peace) is now left peacefully to our peaceful King, whom long in blessed peace, the God of peace defend and govern.  
But once more, a word or two of Edinborough, although I have scarcely given it that due which belongs unto it, for their lofty and stately buildings, and for their fair and spacious street, yet my mind persuades me that they in former ages that first founded that City, did not so well in that they built it in so discommodious a place; for the Sea, and all navigable Rivers, being the chief means for the enriching of Towns and Cities, by the reason of Traffic with foreign Nations, with exportation, transportation, and receipt of variety of Marchantdizing; so this City had it been built but one mile lower on the Sea side, I doubt not but it had long before this been comparable to many a one of our greatest Towns and Cities in Europe, both for spaciousness of bounds, Port, state, and riches. It is said that King james the fifth (of famous memory) did graciously offer to purchase for them, and to bestow upon them freely, certain low and pleasant grounds a mile from them on the Sea shore, with these conditions, that they should pull down their City, and build it in that more commodious place, but the Citizens refused it: and so now it is like (for me) to stand where it doth, for I doubt such another proffer of removal will not be presented to them, till two days after the Fair.  
Now have with you for Leeth, whereto I no sooner came, but I was well entertained by Mr. Barnard Lindsay, one of the Grooms of his majesties Bedchamber, he knew my estate was not guilty, because I brought no guilt with me (more than my sins, and they would not pass for current there) he therefore did replenish the vaustity of my empty purse, and discharged a piece at me with two bullets of gold, each being in value worth eleven shillings white money: and I was credibly informed that within the compass of one year, there was shipped away from that only Port of Leeth, fourscore thousand Bowls of Wheat, Oats, and Barley, into Spain, France, and other foreign parts, and every Bowl contains the measure of four English bushels, so that from Leeth only hath been transported three hundred and twenty thousand bushels of Corn; besides some hath been shipped away from St. Andrew's, from Dundee, Aberdeene, Disert, Kirkady, Kinghorne, Burnt-Iland, Dunbar, and other portable Towns, which makes me to wonder that a Kingdom so populous as it is, should nevertheless sell so much bread corn beyond the Seas, and yet to have more than sufficient for themselves.  
So I having viewed the Haven and Town of Leeth, took a passage Boat to see the new wondrous Well, to which many a one that is not well, comes far and near in hope to be made well: indeed I did hear that it had done much good, and that it hath a rare operation to expel or kill divers maladies; as to provoke appetite, to help much for the avoiding of the gravel in the bladder, to cure sore eyes, and old ulcers, with many other virtues which it hath, but I (through the mercy of God having no need of it, did make no great inquisition what it had done, but for novelty I drank of it, and I found the taste to be more pleasant than any other water, sweet almost as milk, yet as clear as crystal, and I did observe that though a man did drink a quart, a pottle, or as much as his belly could contain, yet it never offended or lay heavy upon the stomach, no more than if one had drank but a pint or a small quantity.  
I went two miles from it to a town called Burnt-Iland, where I found many of my especial good friends, as M. Robert Hay, one of the Grooms of his majesties Bedchamber, Master David Drummond, one of his Gentlemen Pensioners▪ Master james Acmooty, one of the Grooms of the Privy Chamber, Captain M●rray, Sir Henry Witherington Knight, Captain Tyrie, and divers others▪ and there Master Hay, Master Drummond, and the good old Captain Murray, did very bountifully furnish me with gold for my expenses, but I being at dinner with those aforesaid Gentlemen, as we were discoursing, there befell a strange accident, which I think worth the relating.  
I know not upon what occasion they began to talk of being at Sea in former times, and I (amongst the rest) said I was at the taking of Cales, whereto an English Gentleman replied, that he was the next good voyage after at the islands: I answered him that I was there also. He demanded in what Ship I was? I told him in the Rainbow of the Queens, why (quoth he) do you not know me? I was in the same Ship, and my name is Witherington.  
Sir, said I, I do remember the name well, but by reason that it is near two and twenty years since I saw you, I may well forget the knowledge of you: well, said he, if you were in that Ship, I pray you tell me some remarkable token that happened in the voyage: whereupon I told him two or three tokens which he did know to be true. Nay then said I, I will tell you another which (perhaps) you have not forgotten; as our Ship and the rest of the fleet did ride at Anchor at the I'll of Flores (one of the Isles of the Azores) there were some fourteen men and boys of our Ship, that for novelty would go a shore, and see what fruit the I land did bear, and what entertainment it would yield us: so being landed, we went up and down and could find nothing but stones, heath and moss, and we expected Oranges, Limonds, Figs, Muske-millions, and Potatoes: in the mean space the wind did blow so stiff, and the Sea was so extreme rough, that our Shipboate could not come to the land to fetch us, for fear she should be beaten in pieces against the rocks; this continued five days, so that we were all almost famished for want of food: but at last (I squandering up and down) by the providence of God I happened into a Cave or poor habitation, where I found fifteen loaves of bread, each of the quantity of a penny loaf in England, I having a valiant stomach of the age of almost 120. hours breeding, fell too, and eat two loaves and never said grace: and as I was about to make a Horse-loaf of the third loaf, I did put 12. of them into my breeches, and my sleeves, and so went mumbling out of the Cave, leaning my back against a tree, when upon the sudden a Gentleman came to me and said, friend what are you eating, bread quoth I, for God's sake said he give me some, with that I put my hand into my breech, (being my best pantrey) and I gave him a Loaf, which he received with many thanks, and said that if ever he could requite it he would.  
I had no sooner told this tale but Sr. Henry Witherington did acknowledge himself to be the man that I had given the Loaf unto 22. years before, where I found the Proverb true that men have more privilege than mountains in meeting.  
In what great measure, he did requite so small a courtesy, I will relate in this following discourse in my Return through Northumberland: So leaving my man at the town of Burnt Island, I told him, I would but go to Sterling, and see the Castle there, and withal to see my honourable friends the Earl of Marr, and Sir William Murray Knight, Lord of Abercarny, and that I would return within two days at the most: But it fell out quite contrary; for it was five and thirty days before I could get back again out of these noblemen's company. The whole progress of my travel with them, and the cause of my stay, I cannot with gratefulness omit; and thus it was.  
A worthy Gentleman, named Master john Fenton, did bring me on my way six miles, to Dumfermling, where I was well entertained, and lodged at Master john Gibb his house, one of the Grooms of his majesties Bedchamber, and I think the oldest Servant the King hath: withal I was well entertained there by Master Crighton at his own house, who went with me, and showed me the Queen's Palace; (a delicate and a princely Mansion) withal I saw the ruins of an ancient and stately built Abbey, with fair Gardens, Orchards, and Meadows belonging to the palace: all which with fair and goodly Revenues, by the suppression of the Abbey, were annexed to the Crown. There also I saw a very fair Church, which though it be now very large and spacious, yet it hath in former times been much larger. But I taking my leave of Dumfermling, would needs go and see the truly noble Knight Sir George Bruce, at a Town called the Cooras: there he made me right welcome, both with variety of fare, and discourse; and after all, he commanded three of his men to direct me to see his most admirable Colemines; which (if man can or could work wonders) is a wonder: for myself neither in any travels that I have been in, nor any History that I have read, or any Discourse that I have heard, did never see, read, or hear of any work of man that might parallel or be equivalent with this unfellowed and unmatchable work: and though all I can say of it, cannot describe it according to the worthiness of his vigilant industry, that was both the occasion, Inventor, and Maintainer of it: yet rather than the memory of so rare an Enterprise, and so accomplished a profit to the Commonwealth shall be raked and smothered in the dust of oblivion, I will give a little touch at the description of it, although I amongst Writers, am like he that worst may, holds the candle.  
The Mine hath two ways into it, the one by sea and the other by land; but a man may go into it by land, and return the same way if he please, and so he may enter into it by sea, and by Sea he may come forth of it: but I for variety's sake went in by Sea, and out by Land. Now men may object, how can a man go into a Mine, the entrance of it being in the Sea, but that the Sea will follow him and so drown the Mine. To which objection thus I answer, That at a low water, the Sea being ebbed away, and a great part of the sand bare; upon this same sand (being mixed with rocks and crags) did the Master of this great work build a round circular frame of stone, very thick, strong, and joined together with glutinous or bitunous matter, so high withal▪ that the Sea at the highest flood, or the greatest rage of storm or tempest, can neither dissolve the stones so well compacted in the building, or yet overflow the height of it. Within this round frame, (at all adventures) he did set workmen to dig with Mattocks, Pickaxes, and other instruments fit for such purposes. They did dig more than forty foot downright, into and through a Rock. At last they found that which they expected, which was seacoal, they following the vein of the Mine, did dig forward still: So that in the space of eight and twenty, or nine and twenty years they have digged more than an English mile under the Sea, that when men are at work below, an hundred of the greatest Ships in Britain may sail over their ●●●ads. Besides, the Mine is most artificially cut like an Arch or a Vault all that great length, with many nooks and by-ways in it: and it is so made, that a man may walk upright in the most places, both in and out. Many poor people are there set on work, which otherwise through the want of employment would perish. But when I had seen the Mine, and was come forth of it again; after my thanks given to Sir George Bruce, I told him, that if the plotters of the Powder Treason in England had seen this Mine, that they (perhaps) would have attempted to have left the Parliament House, and have undermined the Thames, and so to have blown up the Barges and Wherries, wherein the King, and all the Estates of our Kingdom were. Moreover, I said that I could afford to turn Tapster at London: so that I had but one quarter of a mile of his Mine to make me a Cellar, to keep Beer and Bottle-ale in. But leaving these jests in Prose, I will relate a few Verses that I made merrily of this Mine.  
I That have wasted Months, Weeks, Days and Hours  
In viewing Kingdoms, Countries, Towns and Towers,  
Without all measure, measuring many paces,  
And with my pen describing sundry places,  
With few additions of my own devizing,  
(Because I have a smack of Coriatizing.)  
Our Mandeuill, Primaleon, Don Quixot,  
Great Amadis, or Huon traveled not  
As I have done, or been where I have been,  
Or heard and seen, what I have heard and seen;  
Nor Britain's Odcomb (Zanye brave Vlissis)  
In all his ambling saw the like as this is.  
I was in (would I could describe it well)  
A dark, light, pleasant, profitable hell,  
And as by water I was wafted in,  
I thought that I in Charon's Boat had been:  
But being at the entrance landed thus,  
Three men there (in the stead of Cerberus)  
Conveyed me in, in each one's hand a light  
To guide us in that vault of endless night.  
There young and old with glimmering candles burning,  
Dig, delve, and labour, turning and returning,  
Some in a hole with baskets and with gabs,  
Resembling furies, and infernal hags:  
There one like Tantal feeding, and there one,  
Lake Sisyphus he rowles the restless stone.  
Yet all I saw was pleasure mixed with profit,  
Which proved it to be no tormenting Tophet;  
For in this honest, worthy, harmless hell,  
There ne'er did any damned Devil dwell:  
And th'owner of it gains by't more true glory,  
Then Rome doth by fantastic Purgatory.  
A long mile thus I passed, down, down, steep steep,  
In deepness far more deep, than Neptune's deep,  
Whilst o'er my head (in fourefould stories high)  
Was Earth, and Sea, and Air, and Sun, and Sky:  
That had I died in that Cimmerian room.  
Four Elements had covered o'er my tomb:  
Thus farther than the bottom did I go,  
(And many Englishmen have not done so;)  
Where mounting Porpoises, and mountain Whales,  
And Regiments of fish with fins and Scales,  
Twixt me and Heaven did freely glide and slide,  
And where great Ships may at an Anchor ride:  
Thus in by sea and out by land I passed,  
And took my leave of good Sir George at last.  
The Sea at certain places doth leak, or soak into the Mine, which by the industry of Sir George Bruce, is all conveyed to one well near the land; where he hath a devise like a horsemill that with three horses and a great chain of Iron, going downward many fathoms, with thirty six buckets fastened to the chain, of the which eighteen goes down still to be filled, and eighteen ascends up to be emptied, which do empty themselves (without any man's labour) into a trough that conveys the water into the Sea again; by which means he saves his Mine which otherwise would be destroyed with the Sea, beside he doth make every week ninety or an hundred Tuns of salt, which doth serve part of Scotland, some he sends into England, and very much into Germany: all which shows the painful industry with God's blessings to such worthy endeavours: I must with many thanks remember his courtesy to me, and lastly, how he sent his man to guide me ten miles on the way to Sterling, where by the way I saw the outside of a fair and stately house called Allaway, belonging to the Earl of Marr, which by reason that his Honour was not there, I passed by and went to Sterling, where I was entertained and lodged at one Mr. john Archibalds, where all my want was that I wanted room to contain half the good cheer that I might have had there; he had me into the Castle, which in few words I do compare to Windsor for situation, much more than Windsor in strength, and somewhat less in greatness; yet I dare affirm, that his Majesty hath not such another hall to any house that he hath neither in England nor Scotland, except Westminster Hall which is now no dwelling Hall for a Prince being long since metamorphosed into a house for the Law and the profits.  
This goodly Hall was built by King james the fourth, that married King Henry the eights sister and after was slain at Flodden field; but it surpasses all the halls for dwelling houses that ever I saw, for length, breadth, height and strength of building, the Castle is built upon a rock very lofty, and much beyond Edinburgh Castle in state and magnificence, and not much inferior to it in strength, the rooms of it are lofty, with carved works on the ceilings, the doors of each room being so high that a man may ride upright on horseback into any chamber or lodging. There is also a goodly fair Chapel, with Cellars, Stables, and all other necessary Offices, all very stately and besitting the Majesty of a King.  
From Sterling I road to Saint johnston, a fine Town it is, but it is much decayed, by reason of the want of his majesties yearly coming to lodge there. There I lodged one night at an Inn, the Goodman of the house his name being Patrick Pettcarne, where my entertainment was with good cheer, good drink, good lodging, all too good to a bad weary guest. Mine Host told me that the Earl of Marr and Sir William Murray of Abercarny were gone to the great hunting to the Brea of Marre; but if I made hast I might perhaps find them at a Town called Breekin, or Breechin, two and thirty miles from Saint john's Stone, whereupon I took a guide to Breekin the next day, but before I came, my Lord was gone from thence four days.  
Then I took another guide, which brought me such strange ways over mountains and rocks, that I think my horse never went the like; and I am sure I never saw any ways that might fellow them. I did go through a Country called Glaneske, where passing by the side of a hill, so steep as is the ridge of a house, where the way was rocky, and not above a yard broad in some places, so fearful and horrid it was to look down into the bottom, for if either horse or man had slipped, he had fallen (without recovery) a good mile downright; but I thank God, at night I came to a lodging in the Lard of Eggells' Land, where I lay at an Irish house, the folks not being able to speak scarce any English, but I supped and went to bed, where I had not lain long but I was enforced to rise, I was so stung with Irish musketas, a Creature that hath six legs, & lives like a monster altogether upon man's flesh, they do inhabit and breed in most sluttish houses, and this house was none of the cleanliest, the beast is much like a louse in England, both in shape and nature; in a word they were to me the A. and the Z. the Prologue and the Epilogue, the first and the last that I had in all my travels from Edinburgh; and had not this highland Irish house helped me at a pinch, I should have sworn that all Scotland had not been so kind as to have bestowed a Louse upon me: but with a shift that I had, I shifted off my Cannibals, and was never more troubled with them.  
The next day I traveled over an exceeding high mountain, called mount Skeene, where I found the valley very warm before I went up it; but when I came to the top of it, my teeth began to dance in my head with cold, like Virginal jacks; and withal, a most familiar mist embraced me round, that I could not see thrice my length any way: withal, it yielded so friendly a dew, that it did moisten through all my clothes: Where the old Proverb of a Scottish Mist was verified, in wetting me to the skin. Up and down, I think this hill is six miles, the way so uneven, stony, and full of bogs, quagmires, and long heath, that a dog with three legs will outrun a horse with four: for do what we could, we were four hours before we could pass it.  
Thus with extreme travel, ascending and descending, mounting & alighting, I came at night to the place where I would be, in the Brea of Marr, which is a large County, all composed of such mountains, that Shooter's Hill, Gad's Hill, Highgate Hill, Hampsted hill, Birdlip hill, or Maluerne hills, are but Mole▪ hills in comparison, or like a Liver, or a Gizzard under a Capon's wing, in respect of the altitude of their tops, or perpendicularitie of their bottoms. There I saw Mount Benawne, with a furred mist upon his snowy head in stead of a nightcap: (for you must understand, that the oldest man alive never saw but the snow was on the top of divers of those hills, both in Summer, as well as in Winter.) There did I find the truly Noble and Right Honourable Lords, john Erskin Earl of Marr, james Stuart Earl of Murray, George Gordon Earl of Engye, son and heir to the marquess of Huntley, james Erskin, Earl of Bughan, and john Lord Erskin, son and heir to the Earl of Marre, and their Countesses, with my much honoured, and my best assured and approved friend, Sir William Murray Knight, of Abercarnye, and hundred of others Knights, Esquires, and their followers; all and every man in general in one habit, as if Lycurgus had been there and made Laws of Equality: For once in the year, which is the whole month of August, and sometimes part of September; many of the Nobility and Gentry of the Kingdom (for their pleasure) do come into these highland Countries to hunt, where they do all conform themselves to the habit of the highland men, who for the most part speak nothing but Irish; and in former time were those people which were called the Redshankeses: Their habit is shoes with but one sole a piece; stockings (which they call short hose) made of a warm stuff of divers colours, which they call Tartane: as for breeches, many of them, nor their forefathers never wore any, but a jerkin of the same stuff that their hose is of, their garters being bands or wreaths of hay or straw, with a plead about their shoulders, which is a mantle of divers colours, much finer and lighter stuff than their hose, with blue flat caps on their heads, a handkerchief knit with two knots about their necks: and thus are they attired. Now their weapons are long bows, and forked arrows, Swords and Targets, harquebuses, Muskets, Durks and Loquhabor Axes. With these Arms I found many of them armed for the hunting. As for their Attire, any man of what degree soever that comes amongst them, must not disdain to wear it: for if they do, than they will disdain to hunt, or willingly to bring in their dogs: but if men be kind unto them, and be in their habit; then are they conquered with kindness, and the sport will be plentiful. This was the reason that I found so many Noblemen and Gentlemen in those shapes. But to proceed to the Hunting.  
My good Lord of Marr having put me into that shape, I road with him from his house, where I saw the ruins of an old Castle, called the Castle of Kindroghit. It was built by King Malcolm Canmore (for a hunting horse) who reigned in Scotland when Edward the Confessor, Harold, and Norman William reigned in England: I speak of it, because it was the last house that I saw in those parts; for I was the space of twelve days after, before I saw either house, corn field, or habitation for any creature, but Dear, wild Horses, Wolves, and such like Creatures, which made me doubt that I should never have seen a house again.  
Thus the first day we traveled 8. miles, where there were small cottages built on purpose to lodge in, which they call Lonquhards, I thank my good Lord Erskin, he commanded that I should always be lodged in his lodging, the Kitchen being always on the side of a bank, many Kettles and Pots boiling, and many spits turning and winding, with great variety of cheer: as Venison baked, sodden, roast, and stu'de Beef, Mutton, Goats, Kid, Hares, fresh Salmon, Pigeons, Hens, Capons, Chickens, Partridge, Moorecoots, Heathcocks, Caperkellies and Termagants; good Ale, Sack, White and Claret, Tent (or Allegant) with most potent Aqua vitae.  
All these and more than these we had continually, in superfluous abundance, caught by Falconers, fowlers, and Fishers, and brought by my Lords tenants and purveyors to victual our Camp, which consisted of fourteen or fifteen hundred men and horses; the manner of the hunting is this. Five or six hundred men do rise early in the morning, and they do disperse themselves divers ways, and 7.8. or 10. miles' compass they do bring or chase in the Deer in many herds, (two, three, or four hundred in a heard) to such or such a place as the Noblemen shall appoint them; then when day is come, the Lords and Gentlemen of their Companies, do ride or go to the said places, sometimes wading up to the middles through bourns and rivers: and then they being come to the place, do lie down on the ground, till those foresaid Scouts which are called the Tinckhell do bring down the Dear: But as the Proverb says of a bad Cook, so these Tinkhell men do lick their own fingers; for besides their bows and arrows which they carry with them, we can hear now and then a harguebuse or a musket go off, which they do seldom discharge in vain: Then after we had stayed three hours or thereabouts, we might perceive the Deer appear on the hills round about us, (their heads making a show like a wood) which being followed close by the Tinkhell, are chased down into the valley where we lay; then all the valley on each side being waylaid with a hundred couple of strong Irish Greyhounds, they are let loose as occasion serves upon the heard of Deer, that with Dogs, Guns, Arrows, Durks and Daggers, in the space of two hours fourscore fat Deer were slain, which after are disposed of some one way and some another, twenty or thirty miles, and more then enough left for us to make merry withal at our Rendezvous. I liked the sport so well, that I made these two Sonnets following.  

WHy should I wast Invention to indite,  
Ovidian fictions, or Olympian games?  
My misty Muse enlightened with more light,  
To a more noble pitch her aim She frames.  
I must relate to my great Master JAMES,  
The Calydonian annual peaceful war;  
How noble minds do eternize their fames  
By martial meeting in the Brea of Marr:  
How thousand gallant Spirits come near and far,  
With Swords and Targets, Arrows, Bows and Guns,  
That all the troup to men of judgement, are  
The God of Wars great never conquered Sons.  
The Sport is Manly, yet none bleed but Beasts,  
And last, the Victors on the Vanquished feasts.   

IF Sport like this can on the Mountains be,  
Where Phoebus' flames can never melt the Snow:  
Then let who lift delight in Vales below,  
Sky-kissing Mountain pleasures are for me:  
What braver object can man's eyesight see,  
Then Noble, Worshipful, and worthy wights,  
As if they were prepared for sundry fights,  
Yet all in sweet society agree:  
Through Heather, Moss, amongst frogs, and bogs, and fogs,  
'mongst craggy cliffs, and thunder battered hills,  
Hares, Hinds, Bucks, Rees are chased by Man and Dogs,  
Where two hours Hunting fourscore fat Deer kills.  
Low lands, your Sports are low as is your Seat,  
The highland Games and Minds, are high and great.   
Being come to our lodgings, there was such Baking, Boiling, Roasting, and Stewing, as if Cook Ruffian had been there to have scalded the Devil in his feathers: and after supper a fire of fir wood as high as an indifferent Maypole: for I assure you, that the Earl of Marre will give any man that is his friend, for thanks, as many Fir trees (that are as good as any ships masts in England) as are worth (if they were in any place near the Thames, or any other portable River) the best Earldom in England or Scotland either: For I dare affirm he hath as many growing there, as would serve for masts (from this time to the end of the world) for all the Ships, Caracks, Hoys, Galleys, Boats, Drumlers, Barks, and Water-craftes, that are now, or can be in the world these forty years.  
This sounds like a lie to an unbeliever; but I and many thousands do know that I speak within the compass of truth: for indeed (the more is the pity) they do grow so far from any passage of water, and withal in such rocky Mountains, that no way to convey them is possible to be passable either with Boat, Horse, or Cart.  
Thus having spent certain days in Hunting in the Brea of Marr, we went to the next County called Bagenoch, belonging to the Earl of Engye, where having such sport and entertainment as we formerly had; after four or five days pastime, we took leave of hunting for that year; and took our journey toward a strong house of the Earls, called Ruthen in Bagenoch, where my Lord of Engye and his noble Countess (being daughter to the Earl of Argile) did give us most noble welcome three days.  
From thence we went to a place called Ballo Castle, a fair and stately house; a worthy Gentleman being the owner of it, called the Lard of Grant; his wife being a Gentlewoman honourably descended, being sister to the right Honourable Earl of Athol, and to Sir Patrick Murray Knight; she being both inwardly and outwardly plentifully adorned with the gifts of Grace and Nature: so that our cheer was more than sufficient; and yet much less than they could afford us. There stayed there four days, four Earls, one Lord, divers Knights and Gentlemen, and their servants, footmen and horses; and every meal four long Tables furnished with all varieties: Our first and second course being threescore Dishes at one board; and after that always a Banquet: and there if I had not forsworn wine till I came to Edinbrough, I think I had there drank my last.  
The fifth day with much ado we gate from thence to Tarnaway, a goodly house of the Earl of Murrayes, ●●here that right Honourable Lord and his Lady did welcome us four days more. There was good cheer in all variety, with somewhat more than plenty for advantage: for indeed the County of Murray is the most pleasantess, and plentifullest Country in all Scotland; being plain land, that a Coach may be driven more than four and thirty miles one way in it, all alongst by the Sea-coast.  
From thence I went to Elgen in Murray, an ancient City, where there stood a fair and beautiful Church with three steeples, the walls of it and the steeples all yet standing; but the Roof, Windows, and many Marble Monuments and Tombs of honourable and worthy personages all broken and defaced: this was done in the time when ruin bore rule, and Knox knocked down Churches.  
From Elgen we went to the B. of Murray his house which is called Spiny, or Spinaye. A reverend Gentleman he is, of the noble name of Douglas, where we were very well welcomed, as befitted the honour of himself and his guests.  
From thence we departed to the Lord marquess of Huntley's, to a sumptuous house of his, named the Bogg of Geethe, where our entertainment was like himself, free, bountiful and honourable. There (after two days stay) with much entreaty and earnest suit, I gate leave of the Lords to depart towards Edinbrough: the Noble marquess, the Earls of Marr, Murray, Engie, Bughan, and the Lord Erskin; all these, I thank them, gave me gold to defray my charges in my journey.  
So after five and thirty days hunting and travel, I returning, past by another stately mansion of the Lord Marquesses, called Stroboggy, and so over Carny mount to Breekin, where a wench that was borne deaf and dumb came into my chamber at midnight (I being asleep) and she opening the bed, would fain have lodged with me: But had I been a Sardanapalus, or a Heliogobalus, I think that either the great travel over the Mountains had tamed me; or if not, her beauty could never have moved me. The best parts of her were, that her breath was as sweet as sugar-carrion, being very well shouldered beneath the waste; and as my Hostess told me the next morning, that she had changed her Maidenhead for the price of a Bastard not long before. But howsoever, she made such a hideous noise, that I started out of my sleep, and thought that the Devil had been there: but I no sooner knew who it was, but I arose, and thrust my dumb beast out of my chamber; and for want of a lock or a latch, I staked up my door with a great chair.  
Thus having escaped one of the seven deadly sins at Breekin, I departed from thence to a Town called Forfard; and from thence to Dundee, and so to Kinghorne, Burnt Island, and so to Edinbrough, where I stayed eight days, to recover myself of falls and bruises which I received in my travel in the highland mountainous Hunting. Great welcome I had showed me all my stay at Edinbrough, by many worthy Gentlemen, namely, old Master George Todrigg, Master Henry Levingston, Master james Henderson, Master john Maxwell, and a number of others, who suffered me to want no wine or good cheer, as may be imagined.  
Now the day before I came from Edinbrough, I went to Leeth, where I found my long approved and assured good friend Master Benjamin johnson, at one Master john Stuarts house: I thank him for his great kindness towards me: for at my taking leave of him, he gave me a piece of gold of two and twenty shillings to drink his health in England. And withal, willed me to remember his kind commendations to all his friends: So with a friendly farewell, I left him, as well, as I hope never to see him in a worse estate: for he is amongst Noblemen and Gentlemen that knows his true worth, and their own honours, where with much respective love he is worthily entertained.  
So leaving Leeth, I returned to Edinbrough, and within the port or gate, called the Netherbowe, I discharged my pockets of all the money I had: and as I came penniless within the walls of that City at my first coming thither; so now at my departing from thence, I came monesse out of it again; having in my company to convey me out, certain Gentlemen, amongst the which was Master james Acherson, Laird of Gasford, a Gentleman that brought me to his house, where with great entertainment he and his good wife did welcome me.  
On the morrow he sent one of his men to bring me to a place, called Adam, to Master john Acmootye his house, one of the Grooms of his majesties Bedchamber; where with him, and his two brethren, Master Alexander, and Master james Acmootye, I found both Cheer and Welcome not inferior to any that I had had in any former place.  
Amongst our viands that we had there, I must not forget the Sole and Goose, a most delicate Fowl, which breeds in great abundance in a little Rock called the Basse, which stands two miles into the Sea. It is very good flesh, but it is eaten in the form as we eat Oysters, standing at a side-boord, a little before dinner, unsanctified without grace; and after it is eaten, it must be well liquored with two or three good rouses of Sherry or Canary sack. The Lord or Owner of the Basse doth profit at the least two hundred pound yearly by those Geese; the Basse itself being of a great height, and near three quarters of a mile in campasse, all fully replenished with Wildfowle, having but one small entrance into it, with a house, a garden, and a Chapel in it; and on the top of it a Well of pure fresh water.  
From Adam Mr. john and Mr. james Acmootye went to the Town of Dunbar with me, where ten Scottish pints of wine were consumed and brought to nothing for a farewell: there at Master james bailies house I took leave, and Master james Acmootye coming for England, said, that if I would ride with him, that neither I nor my horse should want betwixt that place and London. Now I having no money or means for travel, began at once to examine my manners, and my want: at last my want persuaded my manners to accept of this worthy Gentleman's undeserved courtesy. So that night he brought me to a place called Cober spath, where we lodged at an Inn, the like of which I dare say, is not in any of his majesties Dominions. And for to show my thankfulness to Master William Arnet and his wife, the owners thereof, I must a little explain their bonntifull entertainment of guests, which is this:  
Suppose ten, fifteen, or twenty men and horses come to lodge at their house, the men shall have flesh, tame and wildfowl, fish, with all variety of good cheer, good lodging, and welcome; and the horses shall want neither hay or provender: and in the morning at their departure the reckoning is just nothing. This is this worthy Gentleman's use, his chief delight being only to give strangers entertainment gratis: And I am sure, that in Scotland beyond Edinbrough▪ I have been at houses like Castles for building; the Master of the house his Beaver being his blue Bonnet, one that will wear no other shirts, but of the Flax that grows in his own ground; and of his wives, daughters, or servants spinning; that hath his Stockings, Hose, and jerkin of the Wool of his own sheeps backs; that never (by his pride of Apparel) caused Mercer, Draper, Silkman, Embroiderer, or Haberdasher to break and turn bankrupt: and yet this plain homespun fellow keeps and maintains thirty, forty, fifty servants, or perhaps more, every day relieving three or fourscore poor people at his gate; and besides all this, can give Noble entertainment for four or five days together to five or six Earls and Lords, besides Knights, Gentlemen & their followers, if they be three or four hundred men and horse of them, where they shall not only feed but feast, and not feast but banquet, this is a man that desires to know nothing so much as his duty to God and his King whose greatest cares are to practise the works of Piety, Charity, and Hospitality: he never studies the consuming Art of fashionlesse fashions, he never tries his strength to bear four or five hundred Acres on his back at once, his legs are always at liberty, not being fettered with golden garters, and manacled with artificial Roses, whose weight (sometime) is the last Relics of some decayed Lordship: Many of these worthy housekeepers there are in Scotland, amongst some of them I was entertained; from whence I did truly gather these aforesaid observations.  
So leaving Coberspath we road to Berwick, where the worthy old Soldier and ancient Knight, Sir William Bowyer, made me welcome; but contrary to his will, we lodged at an Inn, where Mr. james Acmooty paid all charges: but at Berwick there was a grievous chance happened, which I think not fit the relation to be omitted.  
In the River of Tweed, which runs by Berwick are taken by Fishermen that dwell there, infinite numbers of fresh Salmon, so that many households and families are relieved by the profit of that Fishing; but (how long since I know not) there was an order that no man or boy whatsoever should Fish upon a Sunday: This order continued long amongst them, till some eight or nine weeks before Michaelmas last, on a Sunday, the Salmon played in such great abundance in the River, that some of the Fishermen (contrary to God's law and their own order) took boats and nets and Fished, and caught near three hundred Salmon; but from that time until Michaelmas day that I was there which was nine weeks, and heard the report of it, and saw the poor people's miserable lamentations, they had not seen one Salmon in the River; and some of them were in despair that they should never see any more there; affirming it to be God, judgement upon them for the profanation of the Saboth.  
The thirtieth of September we road from Berwick to Belford, from Belford to Anwick the next day from Anwick to Newcastle, where I found the noble Knight, Sir Henry Witherington; who, because I would have no gold nor silver, gave me a bay Mare, in requital of a loaf of bread that I had given him two and twenty years before, at the lland of Flores, of the which I have spoken before. I overtook at Newcastle a great many of my worthy friends, which were all coming for London, namely, Master Robert Hay, and Master David Drummond, where I was well welcomed at Master Nicholas Tempests house. From Newcastle I road with those Gentlemen to Durham, to Darington, to Northallerton, and to Topeliffe in Yorkshire, where I took my leave of them, and would needs try my penniless fortunes by myself, and see the City of York, where I was lodged at my Right Worshipful good friends, Master Doctor Hudson one of his majesties Chaplains, who went with me, and showed me the goodly Minster Church there, and the most admirable, rare-wrought, unfellowed Chapter house.  
From York I road to Doncaster, where my horses were well fed at the Bear, but myself found out the honourable Knight, Sir Robert Anstruther at his father in laws, the truly noble Sir Robert Swifts house, he being then high Sheriff of Yorkshire, where with their good Ladies, and the right Honourable the Lord Sanquhar, I was stayed two nights and one day, Sir Robert Anstruther (I thank him) not only paying for my two horse's meat, but at my departure, he gave me a Letter to Newarke upon Trent, twenty eight miles in my way, where Mr. George Atkinson mine host made me as welcome as if I had been a French Lord, and what was to be paid, as I called for nothing, I paid as much; and left the reckoning with many thanks to Sir Robert Anstruther.  
So leaving Newarke, with another Gentleman that overtook me, we came at night to Stamford, to the sign of the Virginity (or the Maidenhead) where I delivered a Letter from the Lord Sanquhar; which caused Master Bates and his wife, being the Master and Mistress of the house, to make me and the Gentleman that was with me great cheer for nothing.  
From Stamford the next day we road to Huntingdon, where we lodged at the Postmasters house, at the sign of the Crown; his name is Riggs. He was informed who I was, and wherefore I undertook this my penniless Progress: wherefore he came up into our chamber, and supped with us, and very bountifully called for three quarts of Wine and Sugar, and four lugges of Beer. He did drink and begin Healths like a Horseleech, and swallowed down his cups without feeling, as if he had had the dropsy, or nine pound of Sponge in his maw. In a word, as he is a Post, he drank post, striving and calling by all means to make the Reckoning great, or to make us men of great reckoning. But in his payment he was tired like a jade, leaving the Gentleman that was with me to discharge the terrible Shott, or else one of my horses must have lain in pawn for his superfluous calling, and unmannerly intrusion.  
But leaving him, I left Huntingdon, and road on the Sunday to Packeridge, where Master Holland at the Faulkon, (mine old acquaintance) and my loving and ancient Host gave me, my friend, my man, and our horses excellent good cheer, and welcome, and I paid him with, Not a penny of money.  
The next day I came to London, and obscurely coming within Moore-gate, I went to a house and borrowed money: And so I stole back again to Islington, to the sign of the Maidenhead, staying till Wednesday that my friends came to meet me, who knew no other, but that Wednesday was my first coming: where with all love I was entertained with much good cheer: and after Supper we had a play of the life and death of Guy of Warwick, played by the Right Honourable the Earl of Derby his men. And so on the Thursday morning being the fifteenth of October, I came home to my house in London.   

THE EPILOGUE TO all my Adventurers and others.  
THus did I neither spend, or beg, or ask,  
By any course, direct, or indirectly:  
But in each tittle I performed my task,  
According to my bill most circumspectly.  
I vow to God I have done SCOTLAND wrong,  
(And (justly) 'gainst me it may bring an Action)  
I have not given't that right which doth belong,  
For which I am half guilty of detraction:  
Yet had I wrote all things that there I saw,  
Misjudging censures would suppose I flatter,  
And so my name I should in question draw,  
Where Asses bray, and prattling Pies do chatter:  
Yet (armed with truth) I publish with my Pen,  
That there th' Almighty doth his blessings heap,  
In such abundant food for Beasts and Men;  
That I ne'er saw more plenty or more cheap:  
Thus what mine eyes did see, I do believe;  
And what I do believe I know is true:  
And what is true unto your hands I give,  
That what I give may be believed of you.  
But as for him that says I lie or dote,  
I do return, and turn the Lie in's throat.  
Thus Gentlemen, amongst you take my ware,  
You share my thanks, and I your moneys share.  
Yours in all observance and gratefulness, ever to be commanded. JOHN TAYLOR.  
FINIS.