Taylor his Travels: From the City of London in England, to the City of Prague in Bohemia.  
The manner of his abode there three weeks, his observations there, and his return from thence:  
How he passed 600 miles down the river of Elbe, through Bohemia, Saxony, Anhalt, the Bishopric of Madeberge, Brandenberge, Hamburgh, and so to England.  
With many relations worthy of note.  
By john Taylor.  
LONDON Printed by Nicholas Okes, for Henry Gosson, and are to be sold by Edward Wright. 1620.   


The Right Hon.ble Algernon Capell, Earl of Essex, Viscount Maldon, & Baron Capell of Hadham. 1701    

Reader take this in your way.  

A Pamphlet (Reader,) from the press is hurled,  
That hath not many fellows in the world:  
The maner's common, though the matter's shallow,  
And 'tis all true, which makes it want a fellow.   
And because I would not have you either gulled of your money, or deceived in expectation, I pray you take notice of my plain dealing; for I have not given my book a swelling bombasted title, of a promising inside of news; therefore if you look for any such matter from hence, take this warning, hold fast your money, and lay the book down: yet if you do buy it (I dare presume) you shall find somewhat in it worth part of your money; the troth is that I did chiefly write it, because I am of much acquaintance, and cannot pass the streets, but I am continually stayed by one or other, to know what news, so that sometimes I am four hours before I can go the length of too pair of butts, where such nonsense or senseless questions are propounded to me, that calls many seeming wise men's wisdoms in question, drawing aside the curtains of their understandiug, and laying their ignorance wide open. First john Easie takes me, and holds me fast by the fist half an hour, and will needs torture some news out of me from Spinola, whom I was never near by 500 miles; for he is in the Pallatinate country, and I was in Bohemia. I am no sooner eased of him, but Gregory Gandergoose, an Alderman of Gotham catches me by the goll, demanding if Bohemia be a great town, and whether there be any meare in it, and whether the last fleet of ships be arrived there: his mouth being stopped, a third examines me boldly, what news from Vienna, where the Emperor's army is, what the Duke of Bavaria doth, what is become of Count Buquoy, how fares all the Englishmen; Where lies the King of bohemia's forces, what Bethlem Gabor doth, what tidings of Dampeier, and such a tempest of inquisition, that it almost shakes my patience in pieces. To ease myself of all which, I was enforced to set pen to paper, & let this poor pamphlet (my herald or nuntius) travel & talk, whilst I take my ease with silence. Thus much I dare affirm, that whosoever he or they be, that do scatter any scandalous speeches against the plenty in Bohemia of all manner of needful things for the sustenance of man and beasts, (of the which there is more abundance than ever I saw in any place else) or whatsoever they be that report any ill success on the King's party, this little book, and I the Author doth proclaim and prove them false liars, and they are to be suspected, for coining such falsehoods, as no well-willers to the Bohemian prosperity. One thing I must entreat the Readers patience in reading one hundred lines; wherein, I have kept a filthy stir about a beastly fellow, who was (at my going from England, a piece of a Gravesend Constable) at which time he did me such wrong, as might have drawn my life in question; for he falsely said that I would have fired their Town. I did promise him a jerk or two of my pen at my return; which now I have performed, (not out of any malice, but because I would be as good as my word with him.) Thus craving you to read if you like, and like as you list. I leave you a book much like a prattling Gossip, full of many words to small purpose.  
Yours, as you are mine. john Taylor.   

TAILOR'S TRAVELS, FROM THE CITY of London in England, to the City of Prague in Bohemia.  

I Come from Bohem, yet no news I bring,  
Of business 'twixt the Keysar and the king:  
My Muse dares not ascend the lofty stairs  
Of state, or write of Princes great affairs.  
And as for news of battles, or of War,  
Were England from Bohemia thrice as far:  
Yet we do know (or seem to know) more here  
Than was, is, or will ever be known there.  
At Ordinaries, and at Barber's shops,  
There tidings vented are, as thick as hopps,  
How many thousands such a day were slain,  
What men of note were in the battle ta'en,  
When, where, and how the bloody fight begun,  
And how such sconces, and such towns were won;  
How so and so the armies bravely met,  
And which side glorious victory did get:  
The month, the week, the day, the very hour,  
And time, they did oppose each others power,  
These things in England prating fools do chatter,  
When all Bohemia knows of no such matter.  
For all this summer, that is gone and passed,  
Until the first day of October last,  
The armies never did together meet,  
Nor scarce their eye sight did each other greet:  
The fault is neither in the foot or horse,  
Of the right valiant brave Bohemian force,  
From place to place they daily seek the foe,  
They march, and remarch, watch, ward, ride, run, go,  
And grieving so to waste the time away,  
Thirst for the hazard of a glorious day.  
But still the enemy doth play bopeep,  
And thinks it best in a whole skin to sleep,  
For neither martial policy, or might,  
Or any means can draw the foe to fight:  
And now and then they conquer, spoil and pillage,  
Some few thatched houses, or some pelting village;  
And to their trenches run away again,  
Where they like foxes in their holes remain,  
Thinking by lingering out the wars in length,  
To weaken and decay the Beamish strength.  
This is the news, which now I mean to book,  
He that will needs have more, must needs go look.  
Thus leaving wars, and matters of high state,  
To those that dare, and knows how to relate,  
I'll only write how I passed here and there,  
And what I have observed every where,  
I'll truly write what I have heard and eyed,  
And those that will not so be satisfied,  
I (as I meet them) will some tales devose,  
And fill their cares (by word of mouth) with lies:  
THe month that bears a mighty emperor's name,  
(Augustus hight) I passed down the stream,  
Friday the fourth, Just sixteen hundred twenty  
Full moon, the sign in Piscis, that time went I;  
The next day being saturday, a day,  
Which all great Britain well remember may,  
When all with thanks do annually combine,  
Unto th' Almighty majesty divine,  
Because that day, in a most happy season,  
Our Soveragne was preserved from Goury's treason;  
Therefore to Church's people do repair,  
And offer sacrifice of praise and praire,  
With bells and bonfires, every town addressing,  
And to our gracious King their loves expressing,  
On that day, when in every nook and angle,  
Fag gets and bavins smoked, and bells did jangle:  
Only at Gravesend, (why I cannot tell,)  
There was no spark of fire, or sound of bell,  
Their steeple, (like an instrument vnstrung,)  
Seemed (as I wish all scolds) without a tongue,  
Their bonfires colder than the greatest frost,  
Or chiller than their charities (almost)  
Which I perceiving, said I much did muse,  
That Gravesend did forget the thankful use,  
Which all the towns in England did observe;  
And cause I did the King of Britain serve,  
I and my fellow, for our Master's sake,  
Would (near the water's side) a bonfire make;  
With that a Scotch man, Tompson by his name,  
Bestowed four faggots to increase the flame,  
At which (to kindle all) a Gravesend Baker,  
Bestowed his bavine, and was our partaker:  
We 18 foot from any house retired,  
Where we a jury of good faggots fired;  
But ere the flame, or scarce the smoke began,  
There came the fearful shadow of a man,  
The Ghost or Image of a Constable,  
Whose frantic actions (downright dunce-stable,)  
Armed out of France and Spain, with Bacchus' bounty:  
(Of which there's plenty in the Kentish county,)  
His addle coxcomb with tobacco puff'd`  
His guts with ale full bombasted and stuffed,  
And though half blind, yet in a looking glass,  
He could perceive the figure of an ass;  
And as his slavering chaps nonsense did stutter,  
His breath (like to a jakes) a scent did utter,  
His legs indenting scarcely could bear up,  
His drunken trunk (o'er charged with many a cup.)  
This riff raff rubbish, that could scarcely stand,  
(Having a staff of office in his hand,)  
Came to us as our fire began to smother,  
Throwing some faggots one way, some another,  
And in the King's name did first break the peace,  
Commanding that our bonfire should surcease.  
The Sotchman angry at this rudeness done,  
The scattered faggots, he again laid on:  
Which made the demi Constable go to him,  
And punch him on the breast, and outrage do him;  
At which a cuff or twain were given, or lent,  
About the ears, (which neither did content.)  
But then to hear how fearful the ass braid,  
With what a hideous noise he howled for aid,  
That all the ale in Gravesend, in one hour,  
Turned either good, bad, strong, small, sweet, or sour:  
And then a kennel of incarnate curs,  
Hanged one poor Thomson, like so many burrs;  
Haling him up the dirty streets, all foul,  
(Like devils pulling a condemned soul.)  
The jailor (like the grand devil) gladly sees,  
And with an itching hope of fines and fees,  
Thinking the Constable, and his sweet self,  
Might drink and quaff with that ill gotten pelf;  
For why such hounds as these, may if they will,  
Under the show of good, turn good to ill;  
And with authority the peace first break,  
With Lordly domineering o'er the weak,  
Committing (oft) they care not whom or why,  
So they may exercise themselves thereby,  
And with the jailer share both fee and fine,  
Drowning their damned gain in smoke and wine:  
Thus hirelings Constables, and jailors may,  
Abuse the king's liege people night and day,  
I say they may, I say not they do so,  
And they know best if they do so or no.  
They haled poor Thomson all along the street,  
Tearing him that the ground scarce touched his feet,  
Which he perceiving, did request them cease  
Their rudeness, vowing he would go in peace,  
He would with quietness go where they would,  
And prayed them from his throat to lose their hold.  
Some of the townsmen did entreat them there,  
That they their barbarous baseness would forbear,  
But all entreaty was like oil to fire,  
Not quenced; but more inflamed the scurvy squire.  
Then they afresh began to hale and tear,  
(Like mongrel mastiffs, on a little Bear,)  
Leaving kind Tompsom neither foot or fist,  
Nor any limb or member to resist,  
Who being thus oppressed with odds and might,  
Most valiant with his teeth, began to bite,  
Some by the fingers, others by the thumbs,  
He fanged within the circuit of his gums;  
Great pitty'twas his chaps did never close,  
On the half Constables, cheeks, ears, or nose;  
His service had deserved reward to have,  
If he had marked the peasant for a knave:  
Yet all that labour had away been thrown,  
Through town and country he's already known;  
His prisoner, he did beat, and spurned and kicked,  
He searched his pockets (I'll not say he picked)  
And finding (as he said) no money there,  
To hear how then the bell-wether did swear,  
And almost tearing Tompson into quarters,  
Bound both his hands behind him with his garters,  
And after in their rude robustious rage,  
Tide both his feet, and cast him in the cage,  
There all night he remained in lousy litter,  
Which for the Constable had been much fitter,  
Or for some vagabond (that's sprung from Cain,)  
Some rogue or runagate, should there have lain,  
And not a Gentleman that's well descended,  
That did no hurt, nor any harm intended:  
But for a bonfire in fit time and place,  
To be abused and used thus beastty base.  
There did I leave him till the morrow day,  
And how he scaped their hands I cannot say.  
This piece of officer, this nasty patch,  
(Whose understanding sleeps out many a watch)  
Ran like a town bull, roaring up and down,  
Saying that we had meant to fire the town;  
And thus the devil his master did devose,  
To bolster out his late abuse with lies;  
So all the street down as I passed along,  
The people all about me in a throng,  
Calling me villain, traitor, rogue, and thief,  
Saying that I to fire their town was chief.  
I bore the wrongs as patient as I might,  
Vowing my pen should ease me when I write;  
Like to a grumbling cur, that sleeps on hay,  
Eats none himself, drives other beasts away,  
So this base fellow would not once express,  
Unto his Prince, a subject's joyfulness,  
But cause we did attempt it (as you see)  
H'imprisoned Thompson, and thus slandered me.  
Thus having eased my much incensed muse,  
I crave the reader this one fault excuse,  
For having urged his patience all this time,  
With such a scurvy subject, and worse rhyme;  
And thou Graves-endian officer take this,  
And thank thyself, for all that written is,  
'Tis not against the town this tale I tell,  
(For sure there doth some honest people dwell,)  

●he first let●ers of his ●ames are L●nd ●nd his full ●ame being ●nnagrama●●'d is A Tro●eler, a trobe●er he was to ●e, and so I ●eare he hath e'en to my Reader.  But against thee, thou fiend in shape of man,  
By whom this beastly outrage first began,  
Which I could do no less, but let thee know,  
And pay thee truly what I long did owe,  
And now all's even betwixt thou and I,  
Then farewell and be hanged, that's twice God buy.   
Sunday the 26 of August we set sail from Gravesend, and with various winds, some large and some scarce, we happily past the seas, and sailed up the river of Maze, by the Brill, and on the wednesday following I arrived at Rotterdam in Holland, at which time the worthy regiment of the right honourable Colonel Sir Horace Veare, and the two noble Earls, of Essex, and Oxford departed from thence in Martial Equipage toward the Pallatinate Country, whose Heroic and Magnanimous endeavours, I beseech the Lord of hosts, and God of battles to direct and bless.  
The same day, I went to the Hage, and from thence to Leyden, where I lodged all night, and the morrow being thursday the 30 of August, I sailed from Leyden, to Amsterdam, where I saw many things worthy the noting, but because they are so near and frequent to many of our Nation, I omit to relate them, to avoid tediousness: but on the friday at night I got passage from thence towards Hambrogh, in a small hoy, in the which we were weatherbeaten at sea three days and nights before we arrived there.  
Saturday the eight of September I left Hambrogh, and being carried day and night in wagons, on the monday night following I came to an ancient town called Heldesheim, it standeth in Brunswick land, and yet it belongeth to the Bishop of Collen, where I did observe in their Doom Kirke, or Cathedral Church, a crown of silver 80 foot in compass, hanged up in the body of the Church, in the circuit of which crown were placed 160 wax candles, the which on festival days, or at the celebration of some high ceremonies are lighted to lighten their darkness, or their ignorance, choose ye whether.  
Moreover there I saw a silver bell in their steeple, of six hundred and 30 l. weight, and the Leads of their steeple, shining and sparkling with the Sun beams, they did affirm to me to be gold, the truth of which I am doubtful of.  
In this town I stayed four days, and on friday the 14 of September, I went six dutch miles to the strong town of Brunswick, where by reason of my short stay, which was but two hours, I observed nothing worthy of memory, but their triple walls, and double ditches, their artillery and fortifications, which they think to be impregnable; beside, there I saw an old house of the Duke of Brunswick, with the statue of a golden lion, of a great bigness, standing aloft upon a pillar, with the broken walls, and houses, which the Duke's Cannon hath left there six years since, as tokens and badges of his fury, and their rebellion.  
From thence on the morrow I went one dutch mile further, to an ancient town called Wolfunbuttle, where the Duke of Brunswick keeps his Court, in the which I and my fellow could get no further admittance, then over a bridge into his outermost, or base court; for his soldiers, seeing us with swords and pistols, were fearful, belike, that we would have taken the fortress from them, and therefore though we were but two Englishmen, yet they durst not let us enter; which made men call to remembrance the frequent, and daily Egress and Regress, that all people and nations have to his Majesty royal Court of great Britain, where none that are of any good fashion or aspect are debarred entrance: when those inferior Prince's houses are guarded with hungry Halberdiers, and reverend rufty billmen, with a brace or two of hot shots, so that their palaces are more like prisons, than the free & noble courts of commanding potentates.  
After two days entertainment at Wolfunbuttle, with an English Merchant residing there, of good fame and credit, named Master Thomas Sackuille, I wish my brother, my fellow Tilbery, and another man in my company departed from thence on foot, onward on our journey towards Bohemia, in which travel, what occurrences happened, and what things of note I saw, were as followeth.  
Passing with many weary steps, through the towns of Rosondink, Remling, Soolem, Hessen Darsam, and Haluerstade, (which is all in Brunswick land,) But this town of Haluerstade belongs to a Bishop so styled, who is Duke Christian brother to the now Duke of Brunswick, a long dutch mile (or almost six English) is a small town or a Bleck called Groaning belonging to the Duke, in the which place I observed two things worthy of remembrance.  
First a most stately Palace built with a beautiful Chapel, so adorned with the images and forms of Angels, and Cherubins, with such exquisiteness of arts best industry of carving, graving, guilding, painting, glazing, and paving, with such superexcellent workmanship of organs, pulpit and font, that for curiosity and admirable rareness, all the buildings, and fabrics that ever I beheld, must give it pre-eminence. I confess that Henry the seventh's Chapel at Westminster, King's College Chapel in Cambridge, and Christ's Church in Canterbury, are beyond it in height and workmanship of stone: for indeed this Chapel is most of wood gipps, and plaster of Paris; but it is so guilded as if it had been made in the golden age, when gold was esteemed as dross, so that a man had need to wear a veil over his dazzling eyes, or else he can hardly look upon it.  
The carving and painting seem to outgo the arts of Pygmalion, Apelles, or Praxiteles; the paving of checkered black and white marble, and the windows glassed with Crystal: but all this great cost and show is very little to the honour of God, or the propagation of the Gospel, the edification of the ignorant. For in this Chapel of ease, there is no Service. If the painted pulpit could preach, the dumb images might (perhaps) have a sermon now and then; for scarce at any time there comes any body into the Chapel, but a fellow that shows the beauty of it for two pence or three pence a piece.  
In the same house, in a place or cellar built of purpose, is a great ton or vessel of wood, that was 7 years in making, and hath used to be filled with Rhenish wine: it is said to be twice as big as the vessel at Heidelberg, and the hoops of it are twelve inches thick, and the staffs or boards of it being as much: I went up to the top of it, with a ladder of 18 steps, he that keeps it saith it will hold 160 tons. My fellow Tilbery did creep in at the tap hole; it is in length 32 foot, and in breadth across 19, and verily I think that babble cost more money the making, then would have built a good ship, or founded an alms house for 6 poor people.  

This is a Tub of Tubs, Tub of Tubs Hall,  
Who ne'er had fellow yet, nor ever shall;  
O had Diogenes but had this a Tun,  
He would had thought that he more room had won,  
Then Alexander's conquests, or the bounds  
Of the vast Ocean, and the solid grounds.  
Or had Cornelius but this tub, to drench  
His clients that had practised too much French,  
A thousand hogsheads then would haunt his firkin,  
And Mistress Minks recover her lost mirkin.  
This mighty cask great Bacchus used too stride,  
When he to drunkard's hall did often ride;  
And in this barrel he did keep his court,  
Bathing himself in Rhenish for disport.  
But now these 8 years it hath dry been kept;  
In it the wine-god hath nor pissed or wept;  
That now the cappel, and the cask combine,  
One hath no preaching, t'other hath no wine.  
And now the use they put it to is this,  
'Tis showed for money, as the Chapel is.   
From Groaning we traveled to a town called Ashers Leavens, to Ashleaven, to Kinderne, to Hall, and so to Leipzig, which is one of the chiefest towns in Saxony, being famous for a yearly Mart that is yearly held there, whereto Merchants and other people from the most part of Christendom have annual concourse: in this town we stayed two days, and taking our leave then of some English Merchants, who used us kindly, we there would have hired a coach or waggon to Prague; but all the Saxon coachmen and carters were afraid to look upon any part of Bohemia, because their Duke is a professed enemy in arms against the King of Beam, so that we were forced to hire a fellow with a wheelebarrow two days to carry our cloaks, swords, guns, pistols, and other apparel and luggage which were our necessaries, to a town called Boorne, to Froburge, and so to another town called Penigh, where we cashiered our one-wheeled coach, and hired a cart with two, which carried both us and our baggage to Chemnizt another town in Saxony, from whence to a place called Shop, we were fain to be our own sumpter horses, walking on foot to the last town in Saxony, called Marienberg. From thence passing up and down inaccessible mountains, we came to a wood, which parts Bohemia from Saxony on the west, which wood is called by the people of those parts the Beamer Wolts or Wolt, and is in breadth to English miles, and in length further than I know how to describe truly: but this much of it I dare affirm, that it is a natural impregnable wall to the kingdom of Bohem, which kingdom is all encompassed round with woods and mountains, so that there is no passage on that side of it, for any army to enter into it with munition and artillery, all the ways being uneven, and the mountain tops all bogs, mosses, and quagmires, that great ordnance or any heavy carriage either of horse, cart or waggon, will sink and be lost. Besides, there are numbers past numbering of Fir trees, many standing, and such store fallen of themselves, that any passage might easily be stopped by laying them cross the way. And of all my journey, the travel through that dismal wood was the most heavy unto me, for the trees grew so thick, and so high, that the sun was obscured, and the day seemed night; in some places, the way paved with swimming trees 2 miles together on the tops of hills, which now and then I slipping beside, sunk to the middle in a quagmire.  
When we had thus footed it, and traveled past the hills and woods, (being at the least 4 hours' toil) and that we might look down the mountains into the fruitful land of Bohem, never did sight more rejoice us, the lower hills being all full of Vineyards, and the valleys, corn and pasture; not an English mile distance, but a village every way; and twenty, thirty, or forty reeks or stacks of corn which their barns cannot hold, in the space of every hour's journey: in a word, every thing that belonged to the use and commodity of man was and is there, and all the delightful objects to satisfy every sense is there abundantly, so that nature seemed to make that Country her storehouse or granary, for there is nothing wanting except men's gratitude to God for such blessings.  
The first night we lodged there at a pretty town called Comoda, which town by negligence and occasion of fire had fifty houses burnt two days before our coming thither, it being eleven dutch miles from Prague. There we hired a waggon 7 dutch miles to a town called Slowne, from whence we walked on foot a long 16 English miles to Prague, which long looked for the City we could not see until we came within an hours travel of it: within half a dutch mile is a fearful place, being frequented with inhuman and barbarous murderers, that assault travellers, first shooting and murdering them, and after searching their pockets, where if they have money or not, all is one, it is but so many slain: for these villains have a wood, and a deep valley to shelter themselves in, that they are hardly taken afterwards; but if they chance at any time to be but apprehended, they are racked and tortured to make them confess, and afterwards their executions are very terrible. But (I thank God) we passed that place, and many other as dangerous as that, where some were robbed and murdered (as report told us) both before us, behind us, and on each side: and we saw in our journey above seven score gallows and wheels, where thiefs were hanged some fresh, and some half rotten, and the carcases of murderers, broken limb after limb on the wheels; and yet it was our happiness only to see the dead villains, and escape the living.  
I came into Prague on thursday the seaventh of September, whither if I had come but the friday before, I had seen a most fearful execution of two notorious offenders; the manner how, with their faults, as it was truly related to me by English Gentlemen that saw it, I think it not much impertinent to relate.  
The one of them being taken, apprehended and racked, for ripping up alive a woman with child, and for taking the infant out of her body, did sow a living puppy into her belly; all which he confessed he did to make properties for witchcraft: and being further tortured, he confessed when and where he had committed 35. murders more: the other in respect of him was but a petty offender, for he in all his life time had murdered but 14. For the which execrable facts, their deserved executions were as followeth: First, they were brought out of the jail naked from the girdle upward; and so being bound fast on high in a cart, that the spectators might see them; then the Hangman having a pan of coals near him, with red hot pincers nipped off the nipple of one breast; then he took a knife and gives him a slash or cut down the back on one side, from the shoulder to the waste; and presently gave him such another slash, three inches from the first; then on the top he cut the slashes into one;, and presently taking pincers, took hold of the cross cut, and tore him down like a Girse below the middle, letting it hang down behind him like a belt: after which he took his burning pincers, and plucked off the tops of his fingers of one hand: then passing to another place of the Town, his other nipple was plucked off, the other side of his back so cut and mangled, (which they call by the name of rimming, (if it had been rhyming, I would never have written but in prose) his other fingers nipped off; then passing further, all his toes were nipped off with the burning pincers: after which he was enforced to come out of the cart, and go on foot up a steep hill to the Gallows, where he was broken with a wheel, alive, one bone after another, beginning at his legs and ending with his neck, and last of all quartered and laid on the wheel, on a high post, till Crows, Ravens, or consuming time consume him.  
This was the manner of both their executions, but I speak but of the greatest murderer particularly, because it is reported, that all these torments never made him once to change countenance, or to make any sign or action of grief, to call to God for mercy, or to entreat the people to pray for him; but as if he had been a senseless stock or stone, he did most scornfully, and as it were in disdain abide it: whilst the other villain did cry, roar, and make lamentation, calling upon God often; the difference was not much in their lives, and manner of their deaths, but I am persuaded the odds was great in their dying.  
The City of Prague is almost circular or round, being divided in the middle by the river of Moldove, over which is a fair stone Bridge, of 600. paces over, and at each end a strong gate of stone: there is said to be in it of Churches and Chapels, 150. for there are great numbers of Catholics, who have many Chapels dedicated to sundry Saints, and I was there at four several sorts of divine exercises; viz. at good sermons with the Protestants, at Mass with the Papists, at a Lutherans preaching, and at the jews Synagog; three of which I saw and heard for curiosity, and the other for edification.  
The jews in Prague are in such great numbers, that they are thought to be of men, women and children, betwixt 50. or 60000. who do all live by brocage and usury upon the Christians, and are very rich in money and jewels, so that a man may see ten or twelve together of them, that are accounted worth 20. 30. or 40000. l. apiece; and yet the slaves go so miserably attired, that 15. of them are not worth the hanging for their whole wardrobes.  
The Castle where the King and Queen do keep their Court, is magnificent and sumptuous in building, strongly situated and fortified by nature and art, being founded on a high hill, so that at pleasure it keeps the town in command, and it is much more spacious in rooms for receipt in gardens and orchards, than the Tower of London. I was in it daily the space of 20 days, and saw it royally graced with the presence of a gracious King & Queen, who were honourably attended by a gallant courtly train of Lords and Ladies, and Gentles, of the high Dutch and Bohemians, and where was free & bountiful entertainment to strangers in abundance: I must ever humbly and thankfully acknowledge the Queen's Majesty's goodness towards me, whose undeserved favours were helpful unto me both there, and in my tedious journey homeward. Moreover there I saw (and had in mine arms) the King and Queen's youngest son, Prince Robert, who was borne there on the 16 of December last: a goodly child as ever I saw of that age, whom with the rest I pray God to bless; to his glory and his Parent's joy and comfort.  

There (for a token) I did think it meet,  
To take the shoes from off this Prince his feet:  
I do not say I stole, but I did take,  
And whilst I live I'll keep them for his sake:  
Long may his Grace live to be styled a man,  
And then I'll steal his boots too, if I can.  
The shoes were upright shoes, and so was he  
That wore them, from all harm upright and free:  
He used them for their use, and not for pride,  
He never wronged them, or ne'er trod a side.  
Lambskin they were, as white as Innocence,  
(True patterns for the footsteps of a Prince,)  
And time will come (as I do hope in God)  
He that in childhood with these shoes was shod,  
Shall with his manly feet once trample down,  
All Antichristian foes to his renown.   
The city of Prague, hath in it (by reason of the wars) thrice the number of its own inhabitants, and yet for all that, victuals is in such great plenty, that 6 men cannot eat three half penny worth of bread, and I did buy in the market a fat goose well roast for the value of nine pence English, and I and my brother have dined there at a Cooks with good roasted meat, bread and beer, so that we have been satisfied and left, for the value of five pence: a good turkey there may be bought for two shillings, and for fresh fish I never saw such store, for in one market day I have known in Prague 2000 carp, besides other fishes, which carps in London are five shillings a piece, and there they were for eight pence, or ten pence at the most, so that one of their fresh fish markets here were worth at the least 5 or 600 pounds, and as for all other manner of wild foul, they are there in satiety, besides their fruits are in such abundance that I bought a basket of grapes of the quantity of half a peck for a penny & farthing, & a hat-ful of fair peaches for as much, pickled cucumbers I have bought a peck for three pence, and muskmellons, there hath been cast five or six carts load of them in one day to their hogs.  
As concerning the diet that is in the King's armies, I could never yet hear any man complain of want, but that it is more plentiful then in the city, the greatest scarcity hath been to some sick soldiers, who being not able to march with the leaguers (by reason of their weakness) they have been left amongst the Boors, or husbandmen in the next villages, where their languages not understood, their succour hath been but small, but for all this in the camp hath ever been a continual cheapness of all things, the King most duly paying his soldiers at the end of every month, having in his great leguer, under the conduct of the Princes of Hollock and Anhalt, of foot and horse 43000, and at the least of carts and wagons to carry provision, and baggage for the army, to the number of 18000. In his little leaguer under the leading of Count Mansfelt there are of foot and horse 7000, besides cars and wagons for carriage, and yet for these great numbers of men and beasts, there is food in all abundance.  
In the camp with Grave Mansfelt is the Britain regiment under their Colonel Sir Andrew Grace Knight, and in Prague I met with many worthy Gentlemen and soldiers, which were there sick, as the worthy Captain bushel, Lieutenaut Grimes, Lieutenant Langworth, Ancient Galbreath, Ancient Vandenbrooke, Master Whitney, Master blundel and others, all which did most courteously entertain me, unto whom I must ever rest thankful, and they do affirm that now it hath pleased God to grant their soldier's recovery, that they do hope every Britain soldier doth retain more good spirit, than 3 enemies of what nation soever.  
Thus having showed part of the best things in Bohemia, the Court and City of Prague, it shall not be amiss if I relate a little merrily, of some things there tolerable, some intolerable, some naught and some worse than naught; for as every rose hath a prickle, and every Be a sting, so no earthly kingdom hath such persection of goodness, but it may be justly taxed with imperfections.  

Prague is a famous, ancient, kingly seat,  
In situation and in state complete,  
Rich in abundance of the earth's best treasure,  
Proud and high minded, beyond bounds or measure,  
In Architecture stately; in Attire,  
Bezonian and Pleibeians do aspire,  
To be apparelled with the stately port  
Of worship, honour, or the royal court;  
There coaches, and caroches are so rife,  
They do attend on every trade's man's wife,  
Whose husbands are but in a mean regard,  
And get their living by the ell or yard,  
How ever their estates may be defended,  
Their wives like demi ladies are attended:  
I there a Chimney sweeper's wife have seen,  
Habillimented like the diamond Queen,  
Most gaudy garish, as a fine maid marian,  
With breath as sweet as any sugar carrion,  
With satin cloak, lined through with budge, or sable,  
Or coney fur (or what her purse is able)  
With velvet hood, with tiffanies, and purls,  
Rebates frizlings, and with powdered curls,  
And (lest her hue or sent should be attainted,  
She's antidoted, well presumed and painted,  
She's fur'd, she's fringed, she's laced and at her waist,  
She's with a massy chain of silver braced,  
She's yellow starched, she's ruffed, and cuffed, and muffed,  
She's ringed, she's braceleted, she's richly tuffed,  
Her petticoale, good silk as can be bought,  
Her smock, about the tail laced round and wrought,  
Her gadding legs are finely spanish booted,  
The whilst her husband, like a slave all sooted,  
Looks like a courtier to infernal Pluto,  
And knows himself to be a base cornuto.  
Then since a man that lives by chimney sweep,  
His wife so gaudy richly clad doth keep,  
Think then but how a Merchant's wife may go,  
Or how a burgamaisters' wife doth show;  
There (by a kind of top sie turuy use,)  
The women wear the boots, the men the shoes,  
I know not if't be profit, or else pride,  
But sure theyare oftener ridden than they ride:  
These females seem to be most valiant there,  
Their painting shows they do no colours fear,  
Most artlike plastring natures imperfections,  
With sublimated, white and red complexions;  
So much for pride I have observed there,  
Their other faults are almost every where.   
Thus having stayed in Prague almost 3. weeks, I returned from thence homeward, on tuesday, the 26. of September, having in my company three Gentlemen, a widow (and four small children) whose husband and being an English man, and the King's Brewer for Beer, deceased, and was buried there in Prague whilst I was there: the good desolate woman having received reward after seven years' service there and at Heidelberg, being desirous to retire to her country (England) came with us, with my brother, and my fellow Tilbery. We took two Coaches at the Castle of Prague, & in a day and half, we were carried seven Dutch miles, to a Town in Bohemia (standing on the river of Elbe) called Leutmeritz, at which Town we all laid our monies together, and bought a boat of 48. foot in length, and not 3. foot in breadth, and because we did not know the river, we hired a Bohemian waterman to guide us 15. dutch miles, to the Town of Dreason in Saxony. But 4. miles short of that Town, which was the first Town in the Saxon Country, called Pirne, where we were stayed 5. hours without the gates, till such time as the Burgamaster would be pleased to examine us: in the mean space our waterman (not daring to abide the terrible trial of examination, because the Duke of Saxon was in Arms against the King of Beam) he ran away, and left us to bring the boat down the river, 600. English miles ourselves to Hamburgh.  
But now to close up all, I will relate what rare diet, excellent cookery, and sweet lodging we had in ouriourney in Germany: first for our comfort, after very hard getting of houseroom, our lodgings was every night in straw, where lying together well littered, we honestly always left our sheets behind us: then at our suppers at a table square, and so broad, that two men can hardly shake hands over it, we being some twelve about it. Our first dish being a raw cabbage, of the quantity of half a peck, cut and chopped small, with the fat of resty bacon poured upon it in stead of oil; which dish must be emptied before we could get any more: Our second dish perhaps, a peck of boiled Apples and honey, the Apples being boiled skins, stalks, cores, and all: Thirdly, 100 Gudgeons, newly taken perhaps, yet as salt as if they had been three years pickled, or twice at the East Indies, boiled with scales, guts an all, and buried in Ginger like sawdust: a fresh pike as salt as brine, boiled in flat milk, with a pound of Garlic. This was the manner of the most part of our diet; and if we did ask them why they did salt their meat so unreasonably, their answer was, that their beer could not be consumed, except their meat were salted extraordinarily.  
If a man do find fault or seem distasted with their beastly diet, he is in danger to be thrust out of doors, and take up his lodging in the streets: and in the conclusion when dinner or supper is ended, then comes mine Host, or his leather lipped Froe, with a saucy reckoning of what they please, which sounds in our ears like a harsh Epilogue, after a bad play; for what they say we must pay, their words are irrevocable (like the ancient Kings of Persia) and we must not question or ask how and how it can be so much, but pay them their demand without grumbling to half a farthing.  
Which made me call to mind six several principals, that do belong to a traveller, as patience, silence, wariness, watchfulness, a good stomach, and a purse well moneyed; for if he want any one of these, (perhaps) the other five will never bring him to his journey's end. A man's patience must be such, that (though he be a Baron) he must bear all abuses, either in words, lodging, diet, or almost any thing, though offered from or by a souter, a tinker, or a Merchant of tripes & turnips; his silence must be, that though he hear & understand himself wronged, yet he must be as dumb as a Gudgeon or a Whiting mop: and though his mouth be shut, his wariness must be such, that his ears must be ever open, to listen and overhear all dangers that may be complotted against him: his watchfulness must be so, that he must seldom sleep with both his eyes at once, lest his throat be cut before he wake again. But for his stomach, he must eat grass with a horse, and draff with the hogs, for he that cannot eat pickled herring broth, and dirty puddings, shall many times fast by authority, and go to bed without his supper: and last of all, he must have Fortunatus or a Prince his purse, that must be (like a drunkard's dagger) ever drawn, to pay bountifully for such wash and grains, as his valiant stomach hrth overcome, conquered and devoured: but of this a little in verse:  

Six things unto a Traveller belongs,  
An Ass' back, t'abide and bear all wrongs:  
A fishes tongue (mute) grudging speech forbearing,  
A Hearts quick ear, all dangers, overhearing.  
A dogs eyes, that must wake as they do sleep,  
And by such watch his corpses from peril keep.  
A swine's sweet homely taste, that must digest  
All Fish, Flesh, Roots, Fowle, foul and beastly dressed;  
And last, he must have ever at his call  
A purse well lined with coin to pay for all.   
With this kind of lodging and diet, and with tedious labour sometimes night and day, we came in 14. days 607. miles from Prague in Bohemia, to Hambrogh on the hither skirts of Germany, the river having above 1000 shelves and sands, and 800. Lands, so that a man cannot see on which side of them to go, there being 240. mills chained in boats on the first stream, and a number numberless of Oaks and other trees sunk with the violence of the River, and sometimes fogs and mists that we could not see a boats length from us: besides great Rocks, and stones that were fallen into the water, that any or many of these impediments do often overthrow boats, and drown passengers; yet I, and my fellow Tilbery (we being both his Majesty's watermen) did by God's assistance safely escape them all, and brought ourselves, as is aforesaid, to Hamborogh, where being wind bound 10. days, I thank the English Merchants, I was well welcomed, until at last it pleased God, the wind came fair, I took ship, and after 9 days and nights of various weather (I give praise to the Almighty) I safely came home to my house in London, on saturday the 28. of September. 1620.  

You that have bought this, grieve not at the cost,  
there's something worth your noting, als not lost,  
First half a Constable is well bombasted,  
If there were nothing else, your coins not wasted,  
Then I relate of hills, and dales, and downs,  
Of Churches, Chapels, Palaces and Towns,  
And then to make amends (although but small)  
I tell a tale of a great Tub withal,  
With many a gallows, jibbit, and a wheel,  
Where murderers bones are broke, from head to heel;  
How rich Bohemia is in wealth and food,  
Of all things which for man or beast is good.  
How in the Court at Prague (a princely place)  
A gracious Queen vouchsafed me to grace,  
How on the sixteenth day of August last,  
King Frederick to his royal army passed,  
How fifty thousand were in arms arrayed,  
Of the King's force, be side th' Hungarian aid,  
And how Bohemia strongly can oppose,  
And cuff and curry all their daring foes.  
Then though no news of state, may here be had,  
I know here's something will make good men glad,  
No bringer of strange tales I mean to be,  
Nor i'll believe none that are told to me.   
FINIS.