●●ree Weeks, three days, and three hours OBSERVATIONS AND TRAVEL, FROM LONDON to HAMBURGH in Germany: Amongst jews and Gentiles, with Descriptions of Towns and Towers, Castles and Citadels, artificial Gallows, Natural Hangmen: And Dedicated for the present, to the absent Odcombian Knight Errand, Sr. r. THOMAS CORIAT, Great Britain's Error, and the world's Mirror. By JOHN TAYLOR.  
LONDON, Printed by EDWARD GRIFFIN, and are to be sold by GEORGE GYBBS at the sign of the Flower-deluce in Paul's Church yard. 1617.   

TO THE Cosmographical, Geographical describer, Geometrical measurer; historiographical calligraphical Relater and Writer; Enigmatical, Pragmatical, dogmatical observer, Engrosser, Surveyor and Eloquent British Grecian Latinist, or Latin Grecian Orator, the Odcombyan Deambulator, Perambulator, Ambler, Trotter, or untyred traveler, Sir THOMAS CORIAT, Knight of Troy, and one of the dearest darlings to the blind Goddess Fortune.  
MOst worthy Sir, as Quintilian in his Apothegms to the naked, learned, Gimnosophists of AEthiopia, very wittily says, Potanto Machyo corbatio monomosco kayturemon Lescus, Ollipuff tingere whingo: which is, knowledge is a main Antithesis to ignorance, and pains and travel is the high way to experience. I being therefore well acquainted with the generous urbanity innated or rooted in your humanity, (in these days of vanity,) I dedicate (out of my affability, debility, ability, imbecility, facility, or agility,) this poor Pamphlet to your nobility, in all servility and humility: not doubting but the fluent fecundity of your wisdoms profundity, in your heads rotundity, will conserve, reserve, preserve, and observe, what I & my industrious labours deserve. I do (out of mine own cognition) aver and abet, that he is senseless that will assent, that the Fates did assign, with their whole assistance, that any should aspire, to be an associate in any assembly, boldly to assimilate, assay, assault, or ascribe to any mortal but yourself, superlative majority or transcendency for travels, observations, and oratory. These things being revolved and ruminated, in the sagacity or acuteness of my Pericranion, I imagined that no man under the Cope was more worthy than yourself to be a Patronizing Poplar to shelter my poor reed-like endeavours. Howsoever in the preterlapsed occurrences there hath been an antagonistical repugnancy betwixt us, yet I hope time and travel hath worn it threadbare, or brought it to a most irrecoverable consumption; withal I know you are uncapable of inexpugnable malice, inveterate malignancy or emulation. I protest tongue-tied taciturnity should have imprisoned this work in the Lethargical dungeon, or bottomless Abyss of ever-sleeping oblivion, but that I am confident of your patronage and acceptance, which if it fall out (not according to any Promerits of mine) but out of mine own expectation of your matchless and unparalelld disposition, I shall hereafter sacrifice whole Hecatombs of invention both in Prose and Verse, at the shrine of your unfellowed and unfollowed virtues. So wishing more to see you then to hear from you, because writers want work, and the Press is turned voluntary through the scarcity of employments, which I hope your presence will supply, I pray that Neptune, AEolus, Tellus, Bacchus, and all the watery, windy, earthly, and drinking Deities may be officious, auspicious, and delicious unto you, humbly imploring you to take in good part this my sophistical, paradoxical, submission, with a mental reservation of my love and service, to sympathise or be equivalent to your kind liking and corroborated affecting.  
He that hath a poor muse to troth in your service with all obsequious observance: JOHN TAYLOR.   

Three weeks, three days, and three hours travels and Observations. OR, TAILORS TRAVELS.  
SAturday the 17. of August, 1616. (after I had taken leave of some friends that would hardly give me leave to leave them) I was associated with five or six courteous Comrades to the Haven of Billingsgate, where I was no sooner come, but I was shipped in a wherry for the port of Gravesend, and having two women and three men in my company thither, we passed the way away by telling tales by turns. Where one of the women took upon her very Logically to defend the honesty of Brokers, and she maintained her Paradoxical Arguments so pithily, as if herself like a desperate pawn had lain seven years in Lavender on sweetening in long Lane, or amongst the dogged inhabitants of Hounds-ditch. And one of the men replied that he thanked God he never had any need of them, whereupon I began to suspect him to be a crafty knave, because the Proverb says, A crafty knave needs no broker, and indeed after I had inquired what countryman he was, he told me he was a Welsh man, and a justices Clerk. I left him as I found him, hoping never to be troubled with his binding over, and withdrawing: and so landing at Gravesend, we all went to the Christopher where we took a Bachanalian farewell one of another, where I remained till the Monday following, awaiting the coming down of the ship that I was to be transported in. About the hour of three in the afternoon, with good hope we weighed Anchor, and with a courteous tide and a gentle wind we sailed down the river of Thames, as far as the grand Oyster haven of Quinborough, where though our ship was not seasick, yet she cast, (Anchor I mean.)  
On the morrow, being Tuesday, we weighed, and with the friendly breath of Zephyrus, aliâs a Western wind, our sails being swollen, our ship called the judith, who with her stern cut the liquid mounting mountains of Neptune's wavering territories, as nimbly as Hebrew judith beheaded Holofernes, so that by the bountiful favour of him that rules both Winds and Seas, on the Thursday following we espied the coast of Freezeland, and the next day we sailed by an Island called the Holy Land, which may be called the Land of Lobsters, or the Country of Crabs for the plenty of those kind of crawling creatures that are taken there. But we, taking time by the foretop, let no advantage slip, but with a merry Gale, and a friendly flood, on the Friday we sailed up the River of Ell, as far as Stoad, where we Anchoured till the morrow, being Saturday, and the feast of S. Bartholomew the Apostle, we arrived at a bleak aliâs, a town an English mile from Hamburgh, called Altonagh, which is so called by the Hamburgers because it stands all-too-nigh them for their profit, being inhabited with divers tradesmen which do hinder their freedom. I was no sooner landed there, but my company and myself went to a Dutch drinking-schoole, and having vpsefreezed four pots of boon beer as yellow as gold, our host said we had four shilling to betall, or to pay, which made me suspect it to be a bawdy house by his large reckoning, till at last I understood that the shillings he meant were but stivers, or three half pence a piece. So this terrible shot being discharged (which in the total amounted to the sum of sixpences English,) we departed towards Hamburgh, where by the way I noted some 20. men, women, and children in divers places of Altonagh, all deformed, some with one eye, some with hare-lips, crook backed, splay footed, halfe-nozed, or one blemish or other. I admiring at them, was told they were all jews, wherein I perceived the judgement of the high judge of all, that had permitted Nature to deform their forms, whose Graceless minds were so much misshaped through want of Grace.  
But I being entered the City of Hamburgh on the Saturday, I was presently conducted to the English house, where I found a kind Host, an honest hostess, good company, store of meat, more of drink, a true Tapster, and sweet lodging. And being at dinner, because I was a stranger, I was promoted to the chiefest place at the Table, where to observe an old custom, every man did his best endeavour to hauns me for my welcome, which by interpretation is to give a man a loaf too much out of the Brewer's basket; in which kind of Potshot, our English are grown such stout Proficients, that some of them dares bandy and contend with the Dutch their first teachers. But after they had hanced me as well as they could, and I pleased, they administered an oath to me, in manner and form as followeth; Laying my hand on a full pot  
I swear by these contents, and all that is herein contained, that by the courteous favour of these Gentlemen, I do find myself sufficiently hanced, and that henceforth ever I shall acknowledge it; and that whensoever I shall offer to be hanced again, I shall arm myself with the craft of a Fox, the manners of a Hog, the wisdom of an Ass, mixed with the civility of a Bear. This was the form of the oath, which as near as I can shall be performed on my part; and here is to be noted that the first word a Nurse or a Mother doth teach her children if they be males, is Drink, or Beer: So that most of them are transformed to Barrels, Firkins, and Kinderkins, always freight with Hamburgh beer.  
And though the City is not much more than half the bigness as London is within the walls, yet are there in it almost 800. Brewhouses, and in one day there hath been shipped away from thence, 337. brewings of Beer, besides 13 or 14. brewings have been wracked or stayed in the town, as not sufficient to be bezelled in the Country.  
The Saturday being thus past, and Sunday come, I went toward the English Church, where I observed many shops open, buying and selling, chopping and changing of all manner of wares, with the streets furnished with Apples, Pears, Plums, Nuts, Grapes, or any thing else that an ordinary Market can afford, as commonly as if the Sabbaoth were but a bare ceremony without a Commandment. In which I note the jews in their execrable superstition, to be more devout and observant, than these Pedlars in their profession; for on the Saturday (being the jews Sabaoth) they neglect all human affares▪ and betake themselves irreligiously to their misbelieving faithless religion.  
The Sermon being ended at the English Church, I walked in the afternoon with a friend of mine, (an Inhabitant of the Town) to see and to be seen, where at one of the gates was placed a strong guard of Soldiers with Muskets, Pikes, Halberds, and other warlike accoutrements, I asked the cause, and I was informed it was because of the building of certain new mounts and Bulwarks, which were partly erected without the old wall: And when I perceived these fortifications, I was amazed, for it is almost incredible for the number of men and horses that are daily set on work about it, besides the work itself is so great that it is passed the credit of Report, and as I suppose will prove most inexpugnable and invincible Rampires to strengthen the Town on that side against the invasive attempts of the greatest Monarch that should assail them.  
But after much musing, walking further towards the fields, I espied four or five pretty parcels of modesty go very friendly into a counsel-house by the ways side, as we and thousands of people used to pass; they were handsome young Girls of the age of 18. or 20. years a piece, and although they had a door to shut, yet they knowing their business to be necessary and natural, sat still in loving and neighbourly manner: so having traced a turn or two, we returned into the Town again, and entering a long Garden within the walls, some of the Townsmen were shooting for wagers at a mark with their muskets: some bowling: some at slide-thrift, or shovell-boord: some dancing before a blind fiddler and his cowbellied, dropsy, dirty drab: some at one game, some at another, most of them drinking, and all of them drunk, that though it was a Sabbath, which should wholly be dedicated to God, yet by the abuse of these bursten-gutted bibbers, they made it an afternoon consecrated, or more truly execrated to the service of hell, and to the great amplification of the devils kingdom.  

When Christians dare God's Sabbath to abuse,  
They make themselves a scorn to Turks and jews:  
You stealing Barabasses beastly Race,  
Rob God of glory, and yourselves of Grace.  
Think on the supreme judge who all things tries,  
When jews in judgement shall against you rise.  
Their feigned truth, with fervent Zeal they show,  
The Truth unfeigned you know, yet will not know.  
Then at the Bar in new jerusalem,  
It shall be harder much for you then them.   
But leaving them to their drunken designs, I returned toward my lodging, where by the way I saw at the common jail of the town, a great number of people were clustered together, I asked the cause of their concourse, and I was certified that there was a Prisoner to be broken upon the wheel the next day, and that these idle Gazers did press to gape upon him for want of better employments, I being as inquisitive after novelties, as a traveler of my small experience might be, inquired earnestly the true cause of the next days execution: my friend told me that the Prisoner was a poor Carpenter dwelling in the Town, who lately having stolen a Goose, and plucking it within his doors, a little Girl, (his daughter in Law) went out of his house, & left the door open, by which means, the owner of the Goose passing by, espied the wretched thief very diligently picking what he before had been stealing, to whom the owner said; Neighbour I now perceive which way my Geese use to go, but I will have you in question for them, and so away he went: the Caitiff being thus reproved grew desperate, and his child coming into his house; ye young whore, quoth he, must ye leave my door open for folks to look in upon me? and with that word, he took a Hatchet, and with a fatal cursed stroke, he clove the child's head: for the which murder he was condemned and judged to be broken alive upon the wheel. Close to the jail I espied a house of free stone, round and flat roofed, and leaded, upon the which was erected the true picture of a most unmatchable Hangman; and now I am entered into a discourse of this brave abject, or subject, you must understand that this fellow is a merry, a mad and a subsidy hangman, to whom our Tyburn Tatterdemallian, or our Wapping windpipe-stretcher, is but a Ragamuffin, not worth the hanging: for this teare-throat Termagant is a fellow in Folio, a commander of such great command, & of such greatness to command, that I never saw any that in that respect could countermand him: For his making is almost past description, no Saracens head seems greater, and sure I think his brainpan if it were emptied, (as I think he hath not much brain in it,) would well contain half a bushel of malt, his shaggy hair and beard would stuff a Cushion for Charon's boat, his Embossed nose and embroidered face, would furnish a jeweller; his eyes well dried, would make good Tennis-balls, or shot for a small piece of Ordinance, his yawning mouth would serve for a Conniborrow, and his two ragged rows of teeth, for a stone wall, or a Pale; then hath he a neck like one of Hercules his pillars, with a windpipe, (or rather a beer pipe) as big as the boar of a Demiculuering, or a wooden pump; through which conduit half a brewing of Hamburgh beer doth run down into his unmeasurable paunch, wherein is more midriff, guts and garbage than three tripewives could be able to utter before it stunk. His post-like legs were answerable to the rest of the great frame which they supported, and to conclude, sir Bevis, Ascapart, Gogmagog, or our English sir john Falstaff, were but shrimps to this bezzeling Bombards longitude, latitude, altitude, and crassitude, for he passes, and surpasses the whole German multitude.  
And as he is great in corpulency, so is he powerful in potency, for figuratively he hath spiritual resemblance of Romish authority, and in some sort he is a kind of demy-Pope, for once a year in the dogge-days he sends out his men with bats in stead of Bulls, with full power from his greatness to knock down all the curs without contradiction, whose masters or owners will not be at the charge to buy a pardon for them of his mightiness, which pardon is more durable than the Popes of wax or parchment, for his is made of a piece of the hide of an Ox, a Horse, or such lasting stuff, which with his stigmatical stamp or seal is hanged about every dog's neck who is freed from his fury by the purchase of his pardon. And sure I am persuaded that these dogs are more sure of their lives with the hangman's pardon, than the poor besotted blinded Papists are of their seduced souls from any pardon of the Popes.  
The privileges of this grand haulter-master are many, as he hath the emptying of all the vaults or draughts in the city, which no doubt he gains some savour by. Besides all Oxen, Kine, Horses, Hogs, Dogs, or any such beasts, if they die themselves, or if they be not like to live, the hangman must knock them on the heads, and have their skins: and whatsoever inhabitant in his jurisdiction doth any of these things aforesaid himself, is abhorred and accounted as a villain without redemption. So that with hangings, heading, break, pardoning and killing of dogs, flaying of beasts, emptying vaults, and such privy commodities, his whole revenue sometimes amounts to 4. or 5. hundred pounds a year. And he is held in that regard and estimation, that any man will converse and drink with him, nay sometimes the Lords of the Town will feast with him, and it is accounted no impeachment to their honours; for he is held in the rank of a Gentleman, (or a rank Gentleman) and he scorns to be clad in the cast weeds of executed offenders: No, he goes to the Mercers, and hath his Satin, his Velvet, or what stuff he pleases, measured out by the yard or the ell, with his gold and silver lace, his silk stockings, laced spangled garters and roses, hat and feather with four or five brauè villains attending him in Livery cloaks, who have stipendiary means from his ignominious bounty.  
Monday the 19 of August, about the hour of 12. at noon, the people of the town in great multitudes flocked to the place of execution; which is half a mile English without the gates, built more like a sconce then a Gallows, for it is walled and ditched about with a drawbridge, and the prisoner came on foot with a Divine with ●im, all the way exhorting him to repentance, and because death should not terrify him, they had given him many rouses and carouses of wine and beer: for it is the custom there to make such poor wretches drunk, whereby they may be senseless either of God's mercy or their own misery; but being prayed for by others, they themselves may die resolutely, or (to be feared) desperately.  
But the prisoner being come to the place of death, he was by the officers delivered to the hangman, who entering his strangling fortification with two grand hangmen more and their men, which were come from the city of Lubeck, and another town, (which I cannot name) to assist their Hamburghian brother in this great and weighty work: the drawbridge was drawn up, and the prisoner mounted on a mount of earth, built high on purpose that the people without may see the execution a quarter of a mile round about: four of the hangman's men takes each of them a small halter, and by the hands and the feet they hold the prisoner extended all abroad lying on his back: then the Arch-hangman, or the great Master of this mighty business took up a wheel, much about the bigness of one of the fore wheels of a Coach: and first having put off his doublet, his hat, and being in his shirt as if he meant to play at tennis, he took the wheel, and set it on the edge, and turned it with one hand like a top or a whirigigg, than he took it by the spoaks, and lifting it up with a mighty stroke he beat one of the poor wretches legs in pieces, (the bones I mean) at which he roared grievously; then after a little pause he breaks the other leg in the same manner, and consequently breaks his arms, and then he struck four or five main blows on his breast, and burst all his bulk and chest in shivers, lastly he smoate his neck, and missing, burst his chin and jaws to mammocks; then he took the broken mangled corpse, and spreads it on the wheel, and thrusts a great post or pile into the Nave or hole of the wheel, and then fixed the post into the earth some six foot deep, being in height above the ground, some ten or twelve foot, and there the carcase must lie till it be consumed by all-consuming time, or ravening fowls.  
This was the terrible manner of this horrid execution, and at this place are twenty posts with those wheels, or pieces of wheels, with heads of men nailed on the top of the posts, with a great spike driven through the skull. The several kinds of torments which they inflict upon offenders in those parts, makes me to imagine our English hanging to be but a flea-biting.  
Moreover, if any man in those parts are to be beheaded, the fashion is, that the Prisoner kneels down, and being blinded with a Napkin, one takes hold of the hair of the crown of the head, holding the party upright, whilst the hangman with a backward blow with a sword will take the head from a man's shoulders so nimbly, and with such dexterity, that the owner of the head shall never miss the want of it. And if it be any man's fortune to be hanged for never so small a crime, though he be mounted whole, yet he shall come down in pieces, for he shall hang till every joint and limb drop one from another.  
They have strange torments and varieties of deaths, according to the various nature of the offences that are committed: as for example, he that countersets any Prince's coin, and is proved a coiner, his judgement is to be boiled to death in oil, not thrown into the vessel all at once, but with a pulley or a Rope to be hanged under the Armpits, and let down into the oil by degrees: first the feet, and next the legs, and so to boil his flesh from his bones alive. For those that set houses on fire wilfully, they are smoked to death, as first there is a pile or post fixed in the ground, and within an English Ell of the top of it is a piece of wood nailed cross, wherepuon the offender is made fast sitting, then over the top of the post is whelmed a great tub or Dry-fat, which doth cover or overwhelm the prisoner as low as his middle. Then underneath the executioner hath wet straw, hay, stubble, or such kind of stuff, which is fired, but by reason it is wet and dank, it doth not burn but smolder and smoke, which smoke ascends up into the tub where the Prisoners head is, and not being able to speak, he will heave up and down with his belly, and people may perceive him in these torments to live three or four hours,  
Adultery there, if it be proved, is punished with death, as the loss of both the parties heads, if they be both married, or if not both, yet the the married party must die for it, and the other must endure some easier punishment, either by the purse or carcase; which in the end proves little better than half a hanging.  
But as after a tempest a calm is best welcome; so I imagine it not amiss after all this tragical harsh discourse, to sweeten the Readers palate with a few Comical reports which were related unto me, wherein, if I seem fabulous, it must be remembered that I claim the privilege of a traveler, who hath authority to report all that he hears and sees, and more too. I was informed of a fellow that was hanged somewhat near the high way, within a mile or two of Collein, and the fashion being to hang him with a halter and a chain, that when the halter is rotten with the weather, the carcase drops a button hole lower into the chain. Now it fortuned that this fellow was executed on a winter's afternoon towards night, and being hanged, the chain was shorter than the halter, by reason whereof he was not strangled, but by the gaming of the chain which could not slip close to his neck, he hanged in great torments under the jaws, it happened that as soon as he was trust up, there fell a great storm of rain and wind, whereupon all the people ran away from the Gallows to shelter themselves. But night being come, and the moon shining bright, it chanced that a Country Boor, or a wagoner and his Son with him were driving their empty wagon by the place where the fellow was hanged, who being not choked, in the extremity of his pains did stir his legs and writhe and crumple his body, which the wagoners Son perceived, and said; Father look, the man upon the Gallows doth move: quoth the old man he moves indeed, I pray thee let us make haste, and put the Wagon under the Gibbet, to see if we can unhang and save him. This being said was quickly done, and the wretch half dead was laid in straw in the Boor's waggon, and carried home, where with good attendance he was in four or five days recovered to his health, but that he had a crick in his neck, and the cramp in his jaws. The old man was glad that he had done so good a deed, (as he thought) began to give the thief Fatherly counsel, and told him that it was Gods great mercy towards him to make me (quoth he) the Instrument of thy deliverance, and therefore look that thou make good use of this his gracious favour towards thee, and labour to redeem the time thou hast misspent, get thee in-into some other Prince's country, where thy former crimes may not bring thee into the danger of the Law again, and there with honest industrious endeavours get thy living.  
The thief seemed willing to entertain these good admonitions, and thanked the Boor and his Son, telling them that the next morning he would be gone▪ and if ever his fortunes made him able, he promised to be so grateful unto them that they should have cause to say their great courtesies were well bestowed upon him▪ but all his sugared sweet promises, were in the proof but Gall and wormwood in the performance: for this graceless Caitiff arose betimes in the morning, and drew on a pair of Boötes and spurs which were the man's sons of the house, and slipping out of the doors, went to the stable and stole one of his kind hosts best horses, and away road he. The man and his Son, when they were up and miss the thief and the horse, were amazed at the ingratitude of the wretch, and withal speed his son and he road several ways in pursuit of him, and in brief one of them took him, and brought him back to their house again, and when it was night they bound him, and laid him in their waggon (having deaf ears, and hardened hearts to all his entreaties) and away to the Gallows where they found him hanging, there they with the halter being a little shortened, they left him. The next day the Country people wondered to see him hanging there again, for they had seen him hanged, and miss him gone, and now to be thus strangely and privately come again in boots and spurs, whereas they remembered at his first hanging he had shoes and stockings, it made them muse what journey he had been riding, and what a mad Guest he was to take the Gallows for his Inn, or (as I suppose) for his end.  
The rumour of this accident being bruited abrood, the people came far and near to see him, all in general wondering how these things should come to pass. At last, to clear all doubts, proclamations were published with pardon, and a reward to any that could discover the truth, whereupon the old Boor and Son came in and related the whole circumstance of the matter.  
At another place (the hangman's place being void) there were two of the blood, (for it is to be noted that the succession of that office doth lineally descend from the Father to the Son, or to the next of the blood) which were at strife for the possession of this high indignity. Now it happened that two men were to be beheaded at the same town, and at the same time, and (to avoid suit in Law for this great prerogative) it was concluded by the Arbitrators, that each of these new hangmen should execute one of the prisoners, and he that with greatest cunning and sleight could take the head from the body, should have the place, to this they all agreed, & the Prisoners were brought forth, where one of the Executioners did bind a red silk thread double about his prisoner's neck, the threads being distant one from another only the breadth of one thread, and he promised to cut off the head with a backward blow with a sword, between the threads. The other called his prisoner aside, and told him that if he would be ruled by him, he should have his life saved, and beside, (quoth he) I shall be sure to have the office. The Prisoner was glad of the motion, and said he would do any thing upon these conditions, than said the hangman, when thou art on thy knees, and hast said thy prayers, and that I do lift up my Axe, (for I will use an Axe) to strike thee, I will cry Him, at which word do thou rise and run away, (thou knowest none will stay thee if thou canst once escape after thou art delivered into my custody, it is the fashion of our country) and let me alone to shift to answer the matter. This being said, or whispered, the headsman with the sword did cut off his prisoner's head just between the threads as he had said, which made all the people wonder at the steadiness of his hand, and most of them judged that he was the man that was and would be fittest to make a mad hangman of.  
But as one tale is good till another be told, and as there be three degrees of good, better, and best, so this last hangman did much exceed and eclipse the others cunning: For his prisoner being on his knees, and he lifting up his axe to give the fatal blow, Him said he (according to promise) whereupon the fellow arose and ran away, but when he had ran some seven or eight paces, the hangman threw the axe after him, and struck his head smoothly from his shoulders: now for all this, who shall have the place is unknown, for they are yet in Law for it; and I doubt not but before the matter be ended, that the lawyers will make them exercise their own trades upon themselves to end the controversy. This tale doth savour somewhat hyperbolical, but I wish the Reader to believe no more of the matter than I saw, and there is an end.  
At another Town there stood an old overworn despised pair of Gallows, but yet not so old but they will last many a fair year with good usage, but the Townsmen a little distance from them built another pair, in a more stately Geometrical port and fashion, whereupon they were demanded why they would be at the charge to erect a new Gallows, having so sufficient an old one: they answered, that those old Gallows should serve to hang fugitives and strangers; but those new ones were built for them and their heirs for ever. Thus much for Hangmen, thieves, and Gallows.  
Yet one thing more for thieves: In Hamburgh those that are not hanged for theft, are chained 2. or three together, and they must in that sort six or seven years draw a dung-cart, and cleanse the streets of the town, & every one of those thieves for as many years as he is condemned to that slavery, so many bells he hath hanged at an iron above one of his shoulders, and every year a bell is taken off, till all are gone, and then he is a freeman again, and I did see ten or twelve of these Carts, and some of the thieves had seven bells, some 5. some 6. some one, but such a noise they make, as if all the Devils in hell were dancing the morris.  
Hamburgh is a free City, not being subject to the Emperor, or any other Prince, but only governed by 24 Burgomasters, whereof two are the chief, who are clled Lords, and do hold that dignity from their first election during their lives; The buildings are all of brick, of one uniform fashion, very lofty and stately, it is wonderful populous, and the water with boats comes through most of the streets of the Town.  
Their Churches are most gloriously set forth, as the most of them covered with copper, with very lofty spires, and within sides they are adorned with crucifixes, Images and pictures, which they do charily keep for ornaments, but not for idle or idol adoration; In Saint Jacob's and in Saint Catherines Churches, there is in one of them a Pulpit of Alabaster, and in the other a pair of such Organs, which for worth and workmanship are unparalelld in Christendom, as most travelers do relate.  
The women there are no fashion-mongers, but they keep in their degrees one continual habit, as the Richer sort do wear a Huicke, which is a rob of cloth or stuff plaited, and the upper part of it is gathered and sowed to a thing in the form of an English potlid, with a tassel on the top, and so put upon the head, and the garment goes over her ruff and face if she please, and so down to the ground, so that a man may meet his own wife, and perhaps not know her from another Woman.  
They have no Porters to bear burdens, but they have big burly-boned knaves with their wives that do daily draw Carts any whether up and down the town, with merchants goods or any other employments: And it is reported that these Cart-drawers are to see the rich men of the Town provided of milch-nurses for their children, which nurses they call by the name of Ams, so that if they do want a nurse at any time, these fellows are cursed, because they have not gotten wenches enough with child to supply their wants.  
But if a man of any fashion do chance to go astray to a house of iniquity, the whilst he is in the house at his drudgery, another of the whores will go to the Sheriff, (which they call the Rightheere) and inform that such a man is in such a suspected house, then is his coming forth narrowly watched, and he is taken and brought before the Right-heere, and examined, where if he be a man of credit, he must, and will pay forty, fifty, or sixty Rex Dollars before he will have his reputation called in question. Of which money, the quean that did inform shall have her reward.  
A Lawyer hath but a bad trade there, for any Cause or Controversy is tried and determined in three days, Quirks, Quiddits, Demurs, Habeas Corposes, Sursarara's, Procedendoes, or any such dilatory Law-tricks are abolished, and not worth a button there.  
But above all, I must not forget the rare actions and humours of a Quacksalver or Mountebank, or to speak more familiarly, a shadow of a skilful Chirurgeon. This fellow being clad in an ancient doublet of decayed Satin, with a Spruce Leather jerkin with Glass buttons, the rest of his attire being correspondent, was mounted upon a Scaffold, having shelves set with Viols, Gallipots, Glasses, Boxes, and such like stuff, wherein as he said, were Waters, Oils, Unguents, Emplasters, Ellectuaries, Vomits, Purges, and a world of never heard of Drugs; and being mounted (as I said) he and his man begin to proclaim all their skill and more, having a great number of idle and ignorant gazers on, he began as followeth (as I was informed by my Interpreter) for I understood not one word he spoke.)  
I jacomo Compostella, Practitioner in Physic, Chirurgery, and the Mathematics, being a man famous through Europe, Asia, Africa and America, from the Oriental exaltation of Titan, to his Occidental declination, who for the Testimony of my skill, and the rare Cures that I have done, have these Prince's hands and seals; as first the great Cham of Tartary, in whose Court, only with this Water, which is the Ellixar of Henbane diafracted in a Diurnal of ingredients Hippocratonticke, Auicenian, and Catarackt, With this did I cure the great Duchess of Promulpho of the cramp in her tongue: and with this Oil did I restore the Emperor Gregory Euanowich of a Convulsion in his Pericranion. From thence I traveled through Slavonia, where I met with Mustapha Despot of Servia, who at that time was intolerably vexed with a Spasmus, so that it often drove him into a Syncope with the violent obstructions of the conflagerating of his Veins. Only with this precious Unguent being the Quintessence of Mugwort, with Auripigmenty terragrophicated in a Limbeck of Crystalline Translucency, I recovered him to his former health, and for my reward I had a Barbary Horse with rich Caparisons, a turkish Scimitar, a Persian rob, and 2000 Hungarian Ducats.  
Besides, here are the hands and seals of Potohamacke, Adelantado of Prozewgma, and of Gulch Flownderscurse chief Burgomaster of Belgrade, and of divers Princes and estates, which to avoid tedious prolixity I omit. But good people if you or any other be troubled with Apoplexies, Palsies, Cramps, Lethargies, Cataracts, Quincies, Tisicks, Pleurisies, Coghs, Headaches, Tertian, Quartan, and Quotidian Agues, burning Fevers, jawndizes, Dropsies, colics, Illiaca passios, the Stone, the Strangury, the Pox, Plague, Botches, Biles, Blanes, Scabs, Scurfs, Manage, Leprosies, Cankers, Megrimms, Mumps, Fluxes, Meazels, Murreins, Gouts, Consumptions, toothache, Ruptures, Hernia Aquosa, Hernia Ventosa, Hernia Carnosa, or any other malady, that dares afflict the body of man or woman, come and buy while you may have it for money, for I am sent for speedily to the Emperor of Trapezond about affairs of great Importance that highly concerns his royal person.  
Thus almost two hours did this fellow with embossed words, and most laborious action, talk and sweat to the people, that understood no more what he said, than he himself understood himself. And I think his whole take for simple compounds did amount in the total to 9 pence sterling.  
But leaving Hamburgh, (having gathered these few observations aforesaid) out of it I went August 28. and my first jaunt of my travels was by water, to a Town called Buckstahoo, it is a little walled Town, and stands on the other side of the River, three miles (as they call it) from Hamburgh. The boat we passed in is called an juar, not so good as a Gravesend barge, yet I think it be as great, and the three miles longer than from London to Gravesend, for I am sure that we were going nine hours before we could be landed: Our passage cost us threepences a piece, and one thing I remember well, that the lazy watermen will sit still all (or the most part of) the way, whilst their passengers, (be they never so rich or poor, all is one to them, be they men or women) they must row by turns, an hour or such a matter: and we landed in the night at a place called Crants, where all the passengers were to go to supper, but such diet we had that the Proverb was truly verified, God sent meat, and the Devil sent Cooks; for as there was no respect of persons in the boat, so all fellows at the Table, and all once price, the Palatine and the Plebeian: our first mess was great platters of black broth, in shape like new tar, and in taste cozen German, to slut pottage; our second were dishes of Eeeles, chopped as small as herbs, and the broth they were in as salt as brine: then had we a boiled Goose, with choke pears and carrats, buried in a deep dish; and when we demanded what was to pay, it was but three pence a man, I mused at the cheapness of it, but afterward they came upon us with a fresh reckoning of five pence a man for beer, for they never count their meat and drink together, but bring in several reckonings for them: but the morning being come, we hired a Boor's Wagon, to carry us to a place called Citizen, three miles there, or 12. English miles from Buckstahoo: a little bald dorp it is, where we came about noon, and found such slender entertainment, that we had no cause to boast of our good cheer, or our Hostess Cookery. We having▪ refreshed ourselves, and hired a fresh Wagon, away we went two miles further to another Dorp called Rodonburgh, this village belongeth to the Bishop of Rodonburgh, who hath a fair house there, strongly walled and deeply ditched and moated about, very defensible, with draw-bridges, and good Ordinance. This Bishop is a temporal Lord, notwithstanding his spiritual title; and no doubt but the flesh prevails above the Spirit with him; So the Bishops of bream, Luningburgh, and divers other places in Germany, do very charitably take the fleece, (for they themselves never look to the flock) by reason they use no Ecclesiastic function, but only in name.  
Being lodged at Rodonburgh, in a stately Inn, where the Host, Hostess, Guests, Cows, Horses, Swine, lay all in one Room; yet I must confess their beds to be very good, and their linen sweet, but in those parts they use no coverlet, rug or blanket, but a good featherbed undermost, with clean sheets, pillows, and pillowbeares, and another featherbed uppermost, with a fair sheet above all, so that a man's lodging is like a woman's lying In, all white.  
August the 30. we went from Rodonburgh, and about noon we came to an old walled town, called Feirden, it hath two Churches in it, and the hangman's statue very artificially carved in stone, and set on a high pillar, with▪ a rod rampant in his hand, at this town I met with six strangers, all travelers, where we went to dinner together all at one table, and every man opened his knapsack or budget with victuals; (for he that carries no meat with him, many fast by authority in most places of that country) but to note the kindness of these people one to another, some had bread and a box of salt butter, some had raw bacon, some had cheese, some had pickled herring, some dried beef, and amongst the rest, I had brought three ribs of roast beef, and other provision from Hanburgh: to conclude, we drew all like fiddlers, and fed (for the most part) like swine for every man eat what was his own, and no man did proffer one bit of what he had to his neighbour, so he that had cheese must dine with cheese, for he that had meat would offer him none; I did cut every one a part of my roast beef; which my guide told me they would not take well because it is not the fashion of the Country: I tried, and found them very tractable to take any thing that was good, so that I perceived their modesty to take one from another, proceeds from their want of manners to offer. But dinner being done, away we went over a bridge, in the midst whereof is a jynn, made in the likeness of a great Lantern, it is hanged on a turning gibbet, like a Crane: so that it may be turned on the bridge, and over the River, as they shall please that have occasion to use it. It is big enough to hold two men, and it is for this purpose, if any one or more do rob gardens or orchards, or cornefields, (if they be taken) he or they are put into this same whirligig, or kickumbob, and the gibbet being turned, the offender hangs in this Cage over the River some 12 or 14 foot from the water, than there is a small line made fast to the party some 5. or 6. fathom, and with a trick which they have, the bottom of the cage drops out, and the thief falls suddenly into the water. I had not gone far, but at the end of the bridge I saw an old chapel, which in old time they say was dedicated to St. Frodswicke, which hath the day after S. Luke the Evangelist: I entering in, perceived it was a charitable Chapel, for the doors and windows were always open, by reason there were none to shut, and it was a common receptacle for beggars and rogues. There was the image of our Lady, with a vail over her, made (as I think) of a Bakers bolter, and Saint Peter holding a candle to her. I cut a piece of her vail, and taking Peter by the hand at my departure, the kind Image (I know not upon what acquaintance) being lose handed, let me have his hand with me, which being made of wood, by reason of ruinous antiquity, burst of in the handling: which two precious relics I brought home with me to defend me and all my friends from sparrow blasting.  
From this place we were glad to travel on foot one dutch mile to a Dorp called Durfurne, where we hired a Boor's wagon to a town called Neinburgh, but we could not reach thither by 2 English miles, so that we were glad to lodge in a barn that night: On the morrow early, we arose and came to Nienburgh, which is a little walled town, belonging to that Bishopric from whence it is so named. There we stayed 3. hours before we could get a Wagon, at last we were mounted to a Dorp called Leiz, two Dutch miles; I would have bargained with the Boor to have carried us to Dorne, which I bade my guide tell him it was but a mile further, a mile quoth the Boor, indeed we call it no more, but it was measured with a dog, and they threw in the tail and all to the bargain; so to Leiz he carried us, and there we found a Wagon of Dorne homeward bound, which made us ride the cheaper; but it was the longest mile that ever I road or went, for surely it is as much as some ten of our miles in England. But having overcome it at last, from thence I took a fresh Wagon to carry me two miles further to a town called Buckaburghe, where I had, and have, I hope, a brother residing; to whom my journey was intended, and with whom my Perambulation was at a period. This town of Buckaburgh is wholly and solely belonging to the Grass or Grave of Shomburgh, a Prince of great command and eminence, absolute in his authority and power, not countermanded by the Emperor, or any other further than courtesy requires; and in a word, he is one of the best accomplished Gentlemen in Europe for his person, port, and princely magnificence. He hath there to his inestimable charge, built the town, with many goodly houses, streets, Lanes, a strong wall, and a deep ditch, all well furnished with munition and artillery, with a band of Soldiers which he keepeth in continual pay, allowing every man a Doller a week, and double apparel every year. Besides, he hath built a stately Church, being above 120. steps to the roof, with a fair pair of Organs, a curious carved Pulpit, and all other ornaments belonging to the same. His own Palace may well be called an earthly Paradise, which if I should run into the praise of the description of, I should bring my wits into an intricate Labyrinth, that I should hardly find the way out: yet according to the imbecility of my memory, I will only touch a little at the shadow of it, and let the substance stand where it doth.  
At the front or outward gate is a most stately Arch, upon the top whereof is erected the image of Envy, (as great as a demi Colossus) between two Dragons, all guilt with gold; before the gate is an iron grate to open & shut as it were of flowers or work of Embroidery, at which gate stands always a court of Guard, and a Sentinel, and at the lower part of the Arch is the Prince's title or in Capital letters as followeth; ERNESTUS, DEI GRATIA, COMES HOLST, Scomburgh, Sternburgh, etc.  
After I was entered within the outward gate, I was showed his stables, where I saw very fair and goodly horses, both for war and other uses, amongst the rest there was one naturally spotted like a Leopard, or Panther, and is called by the name of Leopard, a stately courageous beast, and so form as if Nature had laid all her cunning aside, only to compose that Horse, and indeed I must acknowledge that he was made for the service of some great Prince, and not for any inferior Person.  
Passing further, I came to another Court of Guard, and over a drawbridge, into the inner court, where on the right hand, I was conducted into the Chapel, in which Chapel, if it were possible that the hand of mortal men (with artificial workmanship) could visibly set forth the magnificent glory of the immortal Creator, then absolutely there it is, but being impossible so to do, (as near as I can) I will describe it; the pavement is all of black and grey marble, curiously wrought with Chequer-worke, the seats and pues are carved Wainscot of wonderful cunning and workmanship: the roof is adorned with the statues of Angels and Cherubins, many in number, all so richly guilded, as if Gold were as plentiful as pewter, there could not be more liberality bestowed: beside there are a fair set of Organs, with a brave sweet Choir of choristers: so that when they sing, the Lutes, Viols, Bandoraes', Organs, Recorders, Sagbuts, and other musical Instruments, all strike up together, with such a glorious delicious harmony, as if the Angelical music of the spheres were descended into that earthly Tabernacle. The Prince himself is a Protestant, very zealous in his Prayer, and diligent in his attention to the Preacher, who although I understood not, yet I perceived he was a good Divine who gravely and sincerely with reverence and eloquent Elocution delivered the bread of life to the understanding Auditors.  
In this Town I stayed with my brother from Saturday the last of August, till the Thursday following which was the fifth of September. When I was conducted an English mile on my way by certain of my countrymen my Lords Musicians, where we drank and parted, only my Brother and my Guide brought me that night to a strong walled Town called Minden, which standeth on the river of Weazer, and belongeth to the Bishop of that See. On the morrow I walked to see the Town, where I bought 36. cheeses for eight pence, and a yard and half of pudding for five pence, which I brought into England for rarities. So about noon we took a boat to pass down the River, which boat is much longer than any western barge, but nothing near so broad, it was half laden with lime and chalk, and by reason the wind blew hard, we were almost choked with the flying and scattering of that dusty commodity. Besides the water was so shallow, that we ran a ground 3. or 4. times, and sometimes an hour, sometimes less before we could get a float again: which made me and my Guide go a shore at a village called Peterhaghen, where we hired a wagon to Leize, where we stayed all night, (being come into our old way again) where were a crew of strolling rogues and whores that took upon them the name of Egyptians, jugglers and Fortune tellers, and indeed one of them held the Goodwife with a tale, the whilst another was picking her chest, and stole out ten dollars, which is forty shillings, and she that talked with her, looked in her hand, and told her that if she did not take great heed, she knew by her Art that some mischance was near her: which proved true, for her money was gone the whilst her fortune was telling.  
But I appointed a wagon over night to be ready by three of the clock in the morning, when I arose and applied my travel so hard by changing fresh wagons, so that that day I came as far as Rodonburgh, which was nine Dutch miles, where I stayed that night: The next day being Sunday the eighth of September, we took wagon towards Buckstahoo, we had a mad merry Boor, with an hundred totters about him; and now I think it fit a little to describe these Boors, their natures, habits, and unmannerly manners. In our English tongue the name Boar or Boor doth truly explain their swinish condition, for most of them are as full of humanity as a Baconhogge, or a Boar, and their wives as cleanly and and courteous as Sows. For the most part of the men they are clad in thin buckram, unlined, barelegged and footed, neither band or scarce shirt, no woollen in the world about them, and thus will they run through all weathers for money by the wagons side, and though no better appareled, yet all of them have houses, land, or manual means to live by: The substantial Boors I did meet above 120. of them that Sunday, with every one an hatchet in his hand, I mused at it, and thought they had been going to fell wood that day, but my Guide told me they were all going to Church, and that in stead of cloaks they carried hatchets, and that it was the fashion of the Country: whereupon it came to my mind, Cloak, quasi Cleave-oake, ergo the Boors wear hatchets in steed of cloaks.  
There are other fashion Boors, who wear white linen breeches as close as Irish trouzes, but so long, that they are turned up at the shoe in a role like a maids sleeves at the hand, but what these fellows want in the bigness of their hose, they have in doublets, for their sleeves are as big as breeches and the bodies great enough to hold a kinderkin of beer and a barrel of butter.  
The Country is very full of woods, and especially oaks, which they very seldom cut down, because of the mast for their swine, which live there in great abundance. If any man be slain or murdered on the way, they use to set up a wooden cross in the place, for a memorial of the bloody fact committed there, and there were many of those wooden crosses in the way as I traveled.  
They seldom have any robbery committed amongst them, but there is a murder with it, for their unmannerly manner is, to knock out a man's brains first, or else to lurk behind a tree, and shoot a man with a piece or a pistol, and so make sure work with the passenger, and then search his pockets.  
It is as dangerous to steal or kill an hare in some places there, as it is to rob a Church or kill a man in England, and yet a twopenny matter will discharge the offender, for the best and the worst is but an halter; and I was informed that an English Merchant (not knowing the danger) as he was riding on the way, having a piece charged in his hand (as it is an ordinary weapon to travel with there) by chance he espied an hare, and shot at her and killed her; but he was apprehended for it, and it was like to have cost him his life; but before he got out of the trouble, he was fain to use his best friends and means, (& pleading ignorance for his innocency) at last with the loss of a great deal of liberty, and five hundred pound in money, he was discharged: The reason of this strict conrse is, because all the hares in the country do belong to one Lord or other, and being in abundance, they are killed by the owner's appointment, and carried to the markets by cartload, and sold for the use of the honourable owners: and no Boor or Tenant that dwells in those parts where those hares are plenty, must keep a dog, except he pay five shillings a year to the Lord, or else one of his fore-feet must be cut of that he may not hunt hares.  
A man is in almost as high promotion to be a knave in England, as a Knight in Germany, for there a Gentleman is called a Youngcurr, and a Knight is but a Youngcurs man, so that you shall have a scurvy Squire command a Knight to hold his stirrup, pluck off his boots, or any other unknightly piece of service: and verily I think there are an 100 several Princes, Earls, Bishops and other estates, that do every one keep a mint, and in their own names stamp Money, Gold, Silver, & Brass, & amongst 23. two pences which I had of their brass money (which they call Grushes) I had 13. several coins.  
Many more such worthy injunctions and honourable ordinances I observed, which are hardly worth pen and ink the describing, and therefore I omit them, and draw toward an end, for on the Wednesday morning I was at an anchor at St●ad, & on the Friday night following I was (by God's gracious assistance) landed at London. So that in three weeks and three days, I sailed from England to Hamburgh and back again, staying in the country 17. days, and traveled 200. miles by land there: gathering like a busy Bee all these honeyed observations, some by sight, some by hearing, some by both, some by neither, & some by bare supposition.  
FINIS.