A True and strange discourse of the travails of two English Pilgrims: what admirable accidents befell them in their journey to jerusalem, Gaza, Grand Cayro, Alexandria, and other places:  
Also what rare Antiquities, Monuments and notable memories (concording with the ancient remembrances in the holy Scriptures) they saw in Terra Sancta, with a perfect description of the old and new jerusalem, and situation of the Countries about them.  
A discourse of no less admiration, than well worth the regarding: written by one of them, on the behalf of himself, and his fellow Pilgrim.  
¶ Imprinted at London, for Thomas Archer, and are to be sold at his Shop by the Royal Exchange. 1603.   

A true and strange discourse of the late travails of two English Pilgrims: what admirable accidents befell them in their journey to jerusalem, Grand Cayro, Alexandria. etc.  
ALthough it pass as a general proverb, that travailers may tell leasings by authority: yet I being no way daunted by that bugbeare-thunderbolt, but confidently standing on the justice of my cause, my kind commendations to all you my dear friends first remembered, thus from jerusalem I begin to salute you. You shall understand, that since my departure from the Grand Cayro towards the Holy land, I wrote you a letter from Ramoth Gilead, wherein I certified you of all my proceedings from Grand Cayro, even to that very place. I sent it with seven other Letters beside to Damascus in a Caravan, and thence to be conveyed to Constantinople: but doubting least the said packet be not as yet come to your hands, I thought it good to write again unto you, concerning all the aforesaid proceedings, as also the rest of my voyage to jerusalem, with my imprisonment and troubles in the city, as also what memorable antiquities I saw there and elsewhere, until my return back to Alexandria, which was the 11. of April 1601. First then let me tell you, that I departed not from the Grand Cayro till the 9 of March: upon which day I came to the place, where (it is said) the virgin Mary did stay with our Saviour Christ. So far was I accompanied with Antony Thorpe, and some others that came up to the Grand Cayro with me: but here they left me, departing back to the city, and I with my fellow travailer Master john Burrell, both of us being in our Pilgrims habit, came the night to a town called Canko, where we were glad to take up our lodging in a yard, having no other bedding then the bare ground. The next day we departed thence, and came to a town in the Land of Gozan, where we met with a company of Turks, jews, and Christians, and some seven hundred and fifty camels, all which were bound for Damascus over the deserts: yet was there amongst them two and twenty greeks and Armenians, whose purposed travail lay to jerusalem, which made us the gladder of their company. At this town, being named Philbits, we stayed two days and one night: in which time I went into a house, where I saw (in my judgement) a very strange secret of hatching Chickens, by artificial heat or warmth: the like I had seen before at the Grand Cayro, but not in such extraordinary numbers or multitudes as here, the manner whereof (for your better satisfaction) was as followeth.  
The country people inhabiting about this town, by four or five miles' distance every way, do bring their Eggs in apt cartage for the purpose, upon Asses or camels to this place, where there is an Oven or Furnace purposely kept temperately warm, and the Furner or Master thereof (or howsoever it shall please you to term him) standeth ready at a little door, receiving the Eggs of every one, by tale: except when the number ariseth so high, as to ten camels lading or more, than he filleth a measure by tale, & after that order measures all the rest. And let me tell you this for a truth, that I saw there received by the Furner, Cook, or Baker, in one day, what by tale & what by measure, to the number of thirty five or forty thousand Eggs: and they told me, that, for three days space together, he doth nothing but receive in still, and at twelve days they come again to fetch Chickens, sometimes at ten days, and sometimes (but not very often) at seven days, according as the weather falleth out. Perhaps some two hundred persons are owners of one Raungefull, some having two thousand, some one, or more or less, as the quantities amount too: but the Furner noateth the names and portions of every bringer, and if he hap to have an hundred and fifty thousand, or two hundred thousand at one heat (as many times it chanceth that he hath) yet doth he mingle them altogether, as not respecting to whom they severally belong. Then doth he lay them one by one upon his Range, so near as they can lie and touch each other, having first made a bed for them of camels dung burnt: and the place, whereon the ashes doth rest, is of a very thin matter made of earth, but mixed with the Camel's dung in the making, and some Pigeons dung is also amongst it: yet herein consisteth not the secret only, for there is made a concave or hollow place about three foot breadth under it, whereon is likewise spread an other layer of Camel's dung, and under that is the place where the fire is made. Yet can I not rightly call it fire, because it appeareth too be nothing but embers: for I could discern it but as qualified ashes, yielding a temperate heat to the next concave, and the heat being resisted by the layer of dung next it, (which dung being green, and laid upon pieces of withered trees, or rather boughs of old dead trees) delivereth forth an extraordinary vapour, and that vapour entereth the hollow concave next under the Eggs, where in time it pierceth the before named mixed earth, which toucheth the ashes whereon the Eggs are laid, and so serveth as a necessary receptacle for all the heat coming from underneath. This artificial heat gliding through the embers whereon the Eggs lie, doth by degrees warm thorough the shells, and so infuseth life by the same proportions of heat: thus in seven, eight, nine, ten, or sometimes twelve days, life continueth by this artificial means. Now when the Furner perceiveth life to appear, and that the shells begin to break, than he beginneth to gather them: but of an hundred thousand, he hardly gathereth threescore thousand, sometime but fifty thousand, and sometime (when the day is overcast) not twenty thousand: and if there chance any lightning, thunder or rain, then of a thousand he gathers not one, for they do then all miscarry & die. And this is to be remembered withal, that be the weather never so fair, the air perfect clear, and every thing as themselves can desire, let the Chickens be hatched in the best manner that may be: yet have they either a claw too much or too little: for sometimes they have five claws, sometimes six, some but two before, and one behind, and seldom very few or any in their right shape. Afterward, when the people come to receive, that before had brought in, the Furner gives to every one rateably, according as the Furnace yielded, reserving to himself the tenth for his labour. Thus have you the secret of hatching Chickens by heat artificial, at the town of Philbits in the land of Gozan, which I think were in vain to be practised in England, because the air there is hardly ten days together clarified: neither is there any Camel's dung, though they have dung of other beasts every way as hot: therefore when the Sun is in Cancer, Leo, or Virgo, you may (if you please) try what can be done. Pexhaps some will think this to be a lie or fable, but to such I answer, I can urge their credenceno further than my faith and truth may persuade them: and if thereon they will not believe me, let them take pains to make their own eyes a witness, and when they have paid as dearly as I have done, (for the sight of this and other things cost me an hundred Marks in fifty days) their judgement will be better confirmed.  
But now to my journey toward the desert of Arabia, which I must pass before I can come to the Holy land. The 13. of March we departed from the town of Philbits, travailing all night in company with the Caravan of Damascus, and the 14. at nine of the clock, we pitched our tents at Boharo in the land of Gozan. From thence we departed that night, and the 15. at night we pitched at Salhia, which is to the Eastward of the land of Gozan, and stands on the borders of the Arabian deserts. Here we stayed two days for fear of the wild Arabes, and departed thence the 17. we passed that night over a great bridge, under which the salt water standeth. This water comes out of the Sea from the parts of Damieta, and by men's hands was cut out of that place, some hundred and fifty miles into the main land, by Ptolomeus king of Egypt, who purposed to bring the Red-sea, and the Mediterranean all into one: but when he foresaw, that if he had gone through with this work, all his country had been quite drowned, he gave it over, & builded a bridge over for passage. This place parteth Arabia and Egypt, and no sooner had we passed this bridge, but we were set upon by the wild Arabes: and notwithstanding our great company (for we were more than a thousand persons) a Camel laden with Calicoes was taken from us, four of our men hurt, and one of them mortally wounded: so away ran the Arabes with the prey, we being unable to help it, because it was night.  
The 18. in the morning, we pitched by a well of brackish water: but I forgot to tell you, that my fellow Pilgrim M. john Burrell escaped very narrowly in the last night's bickering. Here we rested ourselves till three of the clock in the afternoon, call●d Lasara; for the Arabians and Egyptians divide the day but into four parts: then we departed, and pitched the next morning at a Castle in the deserts called Catga. This is one of the three castles which the Turks kept in the deserts, to defend altravailers from the wild Arabes: wherefore here we pay a certain tore, uz. 60. pieces of silver of two pence a piece value, for each man or boy, and 76. pieces for a Camel laden, and 14. for a Mule. Having paid this imposition, we departed, and pitched again the 19 at another brackish well, from whence setting onward, we pitched the 20. of March at the second Castle called Arris, kept also by the Turks in the said deserts, where our tax was but 20. pieces of silver for each passenger, and 30. for a Camel. From thence we were guided by many Soldiers to the third Castle called Raphaell, making one long journey of 24. hours together. Here it is said that the Kings of Egypt and judea fought many great battles: which to me seemed very unlikely, because there is nothing to relieve an army withal, except sand and salt water. There we paid but ten pieces each passenger, and 20. for a beast: so departing thence, the 22. in the morning, we pitched at Gaza in Palestine, a goodly fruitful country, and here we were quitted of all the deserts. In this town I saw the place, where (as they told us) Samson pulled down the two Pillars, and slew the Philistines: and surely it appears to be the same town, by reason of the situation of the country: here we paid 22. pieces for each beast, and 10. each passenger.  
Hence we departed the 22. of March, and pitched at a place called in Arabian, Canuie, but by the Christians termed Bersheba, being upon the borders of judea: where we paid but 2. pieces of silver each one, and 4. for a beast. Departing hence, the 23. in the morning, we pitched our Tents upon a Green, close under the walls of Ramoth in Gilead: there I stayed all that day, and wrote eight Letters for England by the forenamed Caravan, which went for Damascus, to be conveyed to Constantinople, and so for England.  
The next day being the 24. in the morning, I with the other Christians set towards jerusalem, and the great Caravan went their way for Damascus: but we pitched short that night at a place called in Arabian Cudeche laneb, being 16. miles from Hebron, where the Sepulchre of our forefather Abraham is, and five little miles from jerusalem. From thence we departed in the morning, being our Lady day in Lent, and at 9 of the clock before noon, I saw the city of jerusalem: when kneeling down, and saying the Lords prayer, I gave God most hearty thanks for conducting me thither, to behold so holy a place with mine eyes, whereof I had read so often before. Coming within a furlong of the gates, I with my companion M. john Burrell, went singing and praising God, till we came to the west gate of the City, and there we stayed, because it is not lawful for a Christian to enter unadmitted. My companion advised me to say I was a Greek, only to avoid going to Mass: but I not having the Greek tongue, refused so to do, telling him even at the gates entrance, that I would neither deny my Country nor Religion: whereupon being demanded who we were, M. Burrell (answering in the Greek tongue) told them that he was a Greek, and I an Englishman. This gave him admittance to the Greek Patriarch, but I was seized on and cast in prison, before I had stayed a full hour at the gate: for the Turks flatly denied, that they had ever heard either of my Queen or Country, or that she paid them any tribute. The Peter Guardian, who is there defender of all Christian Pilgrims (and the principal procurer of mine imprisonment, because I did not offer myself under his protection, but confidently stood to be rather protected under the Turk than the Pope) made the Turk so much mine enemy, that I was reputed to be a spy, and so (by no means) could I get release from the dungeon.  
Now give me favour to tell you, how it pleased hope (that very day) to deliver me, and grant my pass as a Protestant, without yielding to any other ceremony, than carriage of a wax candle only, far beyond mine own best hope or expectation. Here let me remember you, how I was stayed at Ramoth in Gilead, where I wrote the eight Letters for England by the Caravan of Damascus: having so good leisure, I went to a Fountain to wash my fowl linen, and being earnest about my business, there suddenly came a Moor unto me, who taking my clothes out of my hands, and calling me by my name, said he would help me. You doubt not but this was some amazement to me, to hear such a man call me by my name, and in place so far distant from my friends, country and acquaintance, which he perceiving, boldly thus spoke in the Frank tongue. Why Captain, I hope you have not forgotten me, for it is not yet forty days, since you set me a land at Alexandria, with the rest of those passengers you brought from Argier, in your ship called the Trojan: and here is another in this Caravan, whom you likewise brought in company with you, and would not be a little glad to see you. I demanded of him if he dwelled there: he answered me no, but both he and his fellow were going in the Caravan to Damascus, which place they call Shame, and thence to Beggdatt, which we call Babylon, thence to Mecha to make a hadji, for so they are called when they have been at Mecha: moreover, he told me that he dwelled in the City of Fez in Barbary. This man (in my mind) God sent to be the means of mine immediate delivery. For after I had taken good notice of him, I well remembered that I saw him in my ship; though one man among 300. is not very readily known: for so many brought I from Argier into those parts of different Nations, as Turks, Moors, jews and Christians. I desired this man to bring me to the sight of his other companion, which (having washed my linen) he did, & him I knew very readily. These two concluded, that the one of them would depart thence with the Caravan, and the other go along with me to jerusalem, which was the Moor before remembered: & such kind care had the Infidel of me, as he would not leave me unaccompanied in this strange Land, which I cannot but impute to God's especial providence, for my deliverance out of prison, else had I been left in most miserable case. When this Moor saw me thus imprisoned in jerusalem, my dungeon being right against the Sepulchre of Christ, albeit he wept, yet he had me be of good comfort. Away went he to the Bashawe of the city, and to the Saniack, before whom he took his oath, that I was a Mariner of a Ship, which had brought 250. or 300. Turks and Moors into Egypt from Argier and Tunis, their journey being unto Mecha. This Moor (in regard he was a Muzzle-man) prevailed so well with them, that returning with six Turks back to the prison, he called me to the door, and there said unto me: that if I would go to the house of the Pater Guardian, and yield myself under his protection, I should be enforced to no religion but mine own, except it were to carry a candle, to the which I willingly condescended. So paying the charges of the prison, I was presently delivered, and brought to the Guardians Monastery: where the Pater coming to me, took me by the hand and bade me welcome, marveling I would so much err from Christianity, as to put myself rather under the Turks then his protection. I told him, what I did, was because I would not go to Mass, but keep my conscience to myself. He replied, that many Englishmen had been there, but (being Catholics) went to Mass, telling the Turks at the Gates entrance, that they were Frenchmen, for the Turks know not what you mean by the word Englishman: advising me further, that when any of my Countrymen undertook the like travail, at the gates of jerusalem they should term themselves either Frenchmen or Fritons, because they are well known to the Turks. This or such like conference passed between us: also how old our Queen's Majesty was, and what was the reason she gave nothing to the maintenance of the Holy Sepulchre, as well as other Christian Kings and Princes did? with divers other trivial questions, whereto I answered accordingly. The day being spent even to twilight, master john Burrel, who passed for a Greek without any trouble, came in unto us, being nevertheless constrained to this Monastery, or else he might not stay in the city: for such sway do the Papists carry there, that no Christian stranger can have admittance there, but he must be protected under them, or not enter the city. Master Burrell and I being together in the Court of the Monastery, twelve fat-fed Friars came forth unto us, each of them carrying a wax candle burning, and two spare-candles beside, the one for master Burrel, the other for me. Another Friar brought a great Basin of warm water, mingled with Roses and other sweet flowers, and a Carpet being spread on the ground, and Cushions in Chairs set orderly for us: the Pater Guardian came and set us down, giving each of us a Candle in our hands, than came a Frayer and pulled off our hose, and (setting the Basin on the Carpet) washed our feet. So soon as the Friar began to wash, the twelve Friars began to sing, continuing so till our feet were washed: which being done, they went along singing, & we with the Guardian came to a Chapel in the Monastery, where one of them began an Oration in form of a Sermon, tending to this effect: how meritorious it was for us to visit the Holy land, & see those sanctified places where our saviours feet had trodden. The Sermon being ended they brought us to a chamber where our supper was prepared: there we fed somewhat fearfully, in regard the strange cates have as strange qualities: but committing ourselves to God, & their outward-appearing Christian kindness, we fell to heartily, supped very bountifully, & afterward (praising God) were lodged decently. Thus much for my first days entertainment in jerusalem, which was the 25. day of March 1601. being our Lady day in Lent. Now follows what the Friars afterward showed me, being thereto appointed by the Pater Guardian.  
Early the next morning we arose, and having saluted the Pater Guardian, he appointed us seven Friars and a Trouchman: so forth we went to see all the holy places in the city which were to be seen, except those in Sepulchra sancta, for that required a whole days work afterward, and at every place where we came, we kneeled down, and said the Lords prayer.  
The first place of note that the Friars showed us, was the place judicial: next, the house of Veronica sancta: and demanding of them what Saint that was, they told me it was she that did wipe our saviours face, as he passed by in his agony. Descending a little lower in the same street, they showed me the way which our Saviour went to crucifying, called by them Via dolorosa. Then on the right hand in the same street, I was shown the house of the rich glutton, at whose gate poor despised Lazarus lay. Holding on our way down this street, we came to a turning passage on the left hand: whence they told me Simon Sirenus was coming toward the Dolorous way, when the Soldiers seeing him, called him, and compelled him against his will to help our Saviour to carry his cross. Then they told me, that in the same place the people wept, when Christ answering said unto them: Oh daughters of jerusalem, weep not for me. etc. Next, they showed me the Church, where the virgin Marie fell into an agony, when Christ passed by, carrying his Crosse. Afterward they brought me to pilate's Palace, which though it be all ruinated, yet is there an old Arch of stone, which is still maintained by the Christians, and it standing full in the high way, we passed under it: much like the way of passage under master Hamon's house in the Bulwark, but that the Arch is higher: for upon that Arch is a Gallery, which admitteth passage (over our heads) from one side of the street to the other: for pilate's Palace extended over the high way on both sides, and Pilate had two great windows in the said Gallery, to gaze out both ways into the street, as master Hammon hath the like advantage at both his windows. Into this Gallery was our Saviour brought, when he was shown unto the jews, and they standing below in the street, heard the words of Ecce homo. A little from this place, is the foot of the stairs, where our Saviour did first take up his Crosse. Then they brought me to the place, where the virgin Marie was conceived and borne, which is the Church of Saint Anna, and no Turkish Church. Next, they showed me the Pool, where Christ cleansed the Lepers, and then guiding me to Saint Stephen's gate, a little without it upon the left hand, they showed me the stone whereon S. Stephen was stoned. From hence I saw the stairs going up to port Aurea, at which port are divers relics to be seen: it was the East gate of the Temple, which Solomon built upon mount Moria, in which Temple was the place of Sanctum Sancterum: but now in that place is builded a goodly great Church, belonging to the Turks. Thus spent I the second day, being the 26. of March, all within the gates of jerusalem, except my going to see the stone wherewith S. Stephen was stoned.  
The next day, being the 27. of March, having done our duty to God and the Pater Guardian, we hired Asses for the Friars and the Trouchman to ride on, and going forth the city gates, we mounted and road directly toward Bythinea. By the way as we road, they showed me the place of the fruitless Figtree, which Christ cursed: next, the Castle of Lazarus, that Lazarus whom Christ loved so well: for his house or Castle is in Bythinea, but it is utterly ruinated, and nothing to be seen but the two sides of a wall. In the same town, they showed me the house of Marie Magdalen, but all so ruinated, that nothing is left of it but a piece of a wall: there I saw likewise Martha's house, consisting of three pieces of a wall: and thence they brought me to the stone, where the two sisters told Christ that Lazarus was dead: from whence passing on, they showed me the place where our Saviour raised Lazarus from death, after he had lain three days in the ground, and where he was buried afterward when he died. This place hath been not ably kept from the beginning, and is repaired still by the Christians, but yet in poor and very bare sort, and this is all that I saw in Bythinia. Fron hence we road unto Mount Olivet, & passing by Bethphage, they brought me to the place, where our Saviour took the Ass and Colt, when he road to jerusalem upon Palm Sunday. Riding from Bethphage directly to the North, we came to the foot of Mount Olivet, where they showed me the place Benedicta of the virgin Maries Annunciation, and ascending to the top of the Mount we saw the place of our saviours Ascension: at the sight whereof we said our Prayers, and were commanded withal to say 5. Pater nosters, and 5. ave mary's: but we said the Lords prayer, took notice of the place and departed. This is the very highest part of Mount Olivet, and hence may be discerned many notable places: as first West from it is the prospect of the new City of jerusalem: south-west from it may be seen the prospect of Mount Zion, which is adjoining to new jerusalem: also in the valley between Zion and the mount whereon I stood, I saw the brook Cedron, the Pool Silo, the Garden wherein our Saviour prayed, the place where afterward he was betrayed, and divers other notable things in this valley of Gethsemanie: as the Tomb of Absalon, king David's son, the Tomb of jehoshaphat, and others which I will speak of as I come to them. Full South from mount Olivet, I could see the places we came last from, as all Bythinia and Bethphage: also East north-east from this mount, may be scene both the river of jordan which is some 15. miles off, and jericho, which is not so far, because it is to the Westward of jordan. From mount Olivet East and East-South-east, may be seen the lake of Sodom and Gomorrha, which is some 100 miles long, & 8. miles over: all these places I set with the Compass when I was on mount Olivet, for I stayed on the top of it some two hours and a half, having a little Compass about me. Descending hence toward the foot Westward, we came to a place where the Friars told me, that a woman called S. Pelagia did penance in the habit of a Friar: whereat I smiling, they demanded why I did so? I answered, that to believe Pelagia was a Saint, stood out of the compass of my Creed: they told me, when I should come home at night, they would show me sufficient Authors for it: but when I came home I had so much to do, in writing my notes out of my table books, that I had no leisure to urge their Authors for S. Pelagia.  
By this time they brought us to the place, where our Saviour did foresee the judgement, then where he made the Pater noster, and then where the Apostles made the Creed. From hence we came to the place where Christ wept for jerusalem: thence, to the place where the virgin Marie gave the girdle to S. Thomas: and then to the place where she prated for S. Stephen: all these last were coming down mount Olivet, towards the valley of Gethseminie, where by the way we came to our Lady's Church, wherein is her Sepulchre, and the Sepulchre of her husband joseph, with the Sepulchre of Anna, and many others in that Church. This Church standeth at the foot of Mount Olivet, and was built (as they say) by Helena the mother of Constantine the great: here the Friars went into the virgin Maries sepulchre, & there either said Mass, or Prayers, while we in mean time went to dinner. In this Church is a fountain of exceeding fine water, & in regard we went down into a vault as it were, it giveth a marvelous loud Echo or sound. Hence went we to the Cave, whether judas came to betray Christ when he was at prayer, and thence to the Garden where our Saviour left his Disciples, commanding them to watch and pray; but found them sleeping at his return: then they brought me to the Garden where Christ was taken, and all these last three were in the valley of Gethsemanie. Riding unto the town whereof the valley bears name) on the left hand I saw the before remembered sepulchres of Absalon and jehoshaphat, and on the right hand, the brook Cedron, which at my being there had not one drop of water in it: for (indeed) it is but a ditch to convey the water from the two hills (I mean Mount Olivet, and mount Zion) when any store of rain falleth, and this ditch or brook Cedron is in the valley between both those hills. Hard by the brook Cedron, they showed me a stone marked with the feet and elbows of Christ, in their throwing of him down when as they took him, and ever since (say they) have those prints remained there. From hence we road to the place, where S. james the younger did hide himself, and afterward was buried there: there also they showed where Zachariah the son of Barachiah was buried, and brought me to another place, where (they say) the virgin Marie used often to pray. Then came we to the Pool of Silo, wherein M. Burrell and I washed ourselves, and hence we were shown the place where the Prophet Esay was sawn in pieces: thence they guided us to an exceeding deep Well, where the jews (as they say) hid the holy fire in the time of Nabuchodonozor. Here we ascended from the valley to a hill side, which lieth just South from mount Zion: but there is a great valley between, called Gehemion, and there they showed me the place where the Apostles hid themselves, being a Cave in a rock. Ascending higher hence, they brought me to the field, or rather to be more rightly termed the Rock, where the common burial place is for strangers, being the very same (as they say) which was bought with the thirty pieces of silver, that judas received as the price of his Master, which place is called Aceldoma, and is fashioned as followeth. It hath three holes above, & on the side there is a vent: at the upper holes they use to let down the dead bodies to the estimation of some 50. foot down. In this place I saw two bodies, new or very lately let down, and looking down (for by reason of the three great holes above, where the dead bodies lie, it is very light) I received such a savour up into my head, as it made me very sick, so that I was glad to entreat the Friars to go no further, but to return home to the city. So here we went through the valley of Gehemion, and at the foot of mount Zion (having a little bottle of water which I brought from the Pool Silo) I branke, and rested there an hours space, eating a few Raisins and Olives, which we brought with us from jerusalem in the morning. After I had well rested and refreshed myself, we began to ascend mount Zion, and a little way up the hill, they showed me the place, where Peter having denied Christ, and hearing the Cock crow, went out and wept. Ascending higher, they showed me the house where the virgine Marie dwelled, which was near unto the Temple: then they brought me to the place, where the jews setting on the blessed virgin to take her, she was conveyed away by miracle. Hence we went to the house of Caiphas, which was somewhat higher upon mount Zion, and there I saw the prison wherein our Saviour was detained. Passing on still higher, they guided me to a little Chapel which is kept by the Armenians, whereinto entering, at the high Altar they showed me the stone which was upon our saviours Sepulchre (as they say) and it is near to the place where Peter denied Christ, for there they showed me the Pillar, whereon the Cock stood when he crowed. Hence was I brought to the place where our Saviour made his last Supper, and thence I came where the holy Ghost descended upon the Apostles: whence passing on, they showed me the place where Christ appeared to his Disciples, the eight day after his Resurrection, when S. Thomas desired to see his wounds. near to this place upon mount Zion, the virgin Marie died, and hard by they showed me a place bought by the Pope of the Turks, for burial of the Europian Christians, because he would not have them cast into Aceldama: they told us that the year before, five Englishmen were buried in that place, whether by the Friars poisoning them, or howsoever else it happened, but we thought it strange, that all five should die together in one week. Thence came we to the house of Annas the high Priest, which is now but a pair of very old walls, & nothing else of it to be seen: but at the side of one of the walls, is an old Olive tree, whereto they told me that our Saviour was fast bound: and demanding a further reason thereof, they said, that when he was brought unto this house, Annas being asleep, his people would not awake him: so during their time of stay, they bound him to the said Olive tree, and when he awaked, than he was brought in and examined.  
Departing hence toward the Southgate of the city, which standeth likewise upon mount Zion, we alighted from our Asses: and entering, I noted it well, for now I had seen three of the four gates. And being desirous to see the Northgate also, they brought me to the Church of S. Thomas▪ which is within the wall all ruinated: then to the Church of ●. Mark, whether Peter came, being delivered out of prison by the Angel that broke open the gate. Then they showed me the house of Zebedeus, whence we came to a place kept by the Abashenes, & there ascending first by a dark way, led on by a line or cord, we attained to a high place near to the Sepulchra sancta, where I paid two pieces of silver to go in, and being entered, I demanded what place it was▪ the same (quoth they) where Abraham would have sacrificed his senne Isaac. Thence went we to the prison wherein S. Peter, and S. john were, being the next door to the prison wherein I was put before: which made me the sorier, that it was not my fortune to have gone into it, being so near it. Hence we came to the Northgate, being on mount Caluarie side, where having well viewed the gate, and perceiving it waxed late, we went directly home: this was my third days work in and about jerusalem, wearied not a little with often alighting to pray: for at each several place before recounted, we dismounted and said the Lords prayer on our knees.  
On the morrow, being the 28. early in the morning we took our Asses, riding forth at the Westgate, through which I first entered, and passing on to the Southward, we left mount Zion on the left hand: at the foot whereof they showed me the house of Vriah, and the Fountain where Bersaba washed herself, when king David espied her out of his Turret. Thence went we to the place, where the Angel took up Abacuch by the hair of the head, to carry meat to Daniel in the Lion's den. Next came we to the place, where the wise men found the Star when it was lost, and then where the virgin Marie rested herself under a tree, as she came from Bethlem to jerusalem, which tree they still repaice, by setting another close to the root of it. Hence road we to the house of Elias the Prophet, where they showed me his usual place of sleeping: and this house standeth so upon a hill, as from thence I did see Bethlem a far off. Thence went we to an old ruinated house, which they told me was Jacob's: which may the better appear to be so, for in the field thereto adjoining, is the Tomb of Rachel Jacob's wife: and some two miles from this Tomb, is a town in the same field called Bethesula, the inhabitants whereof are all Christians. In this great field (being between jerusalem and Bethlem) did lie the Camp of Senacherib, when he besieged jerusalem. From hence we road to the field, where the Angels brought tidings of great joy to the Shepherds, which is two miles from Bethlem: and thence we road to Bethlem to the Monastery, wherein are some 10. Friars: who welcomed me very kindly, and brought me first into a great Church, then into a large entry, wherein I saw the name of M. Hugo Stapers twice set one above another, and between them both I set my name. Then they guided me down the stairs into a vault, where was a Chapel set in the place of our saviours Nativity, enclosing both it, and the manger wherein Christ was laid, and also the place where he was presented with gifts by the Wise men. Over this Chapel is a great Church, built by Q. Helena mother to Constantine the Great (as they say) and further in I saw divers Tombs of holy men and others. Going up to the top of the Church, I saw upon the leads the name of M. Hugo Stapers again ingranen, which made me look the earnestlier for some other Englishmen names: but finding none, I carved down my name and came away then went we in and dined with the Friars. After dinner, they brought me to the place where the virgin Marie hid herself, when search was made to kill the children. So taking my l●aue of Bethlem, giving the Friars three pieces of gold, for my dinner and my company with me, being 8. in number: mounting on our Asses, we road to the Well, where King David's three Captains fetched water for him, through the whole host of the Philistines: which Well standeth a little way from Bethlem, towards jerusalem, and hath three places to draw water up at. Hence went we presently back to jerusalem, entering the gate at four of the clock in the afternoon, and at 5. the Turks let us in to the Sepulchra sancta, each of us paying 9 pieces of gold for our entrance. No sooner were we in, but they locked the gates, so there I said till 11. of the clock the next day, and then came we forth: now follows what I saw in Sepulchra sancta. First I noted hanging without the gate, at the least 100 lines or strings, and in the gate is a great hole, whereat a little child may eastly creep in: whereof demanding the reason, they told me that the hole served to give victuals at, for them which lie within the Church, which are above 300. persons, men and women, all Christians, and there live they continually night and day, nor can they have passage in or out, but when the Turks do open the gate for some Pilgrim, which happeneth not sometimes in 14. days: wherefore these Christian leigers in the Church, have there their whole households, and boarded lodgings there builded for them. The strings before spoken of, hanging at the gate, have each one a bell fastened at the lodgings, and when their servants (which are without) bring them any meat, each rings the bell belonging to his household, & so come accordingly (each knowing their own Bell) for receipts of their food. The several sort of Christians, which I saw in this Church, I will in order describe unto you.  
First, the romans, for they bear the greatest way of al. Secondly, the greeks, for they are next in number to the romans, yet little better than slaves to the Turk. Thirdly, the Armenians, who have been so long time servants to the Turk, that having forgotten their own language, they use all their ceremonies in the Arabian tongue, & so I heard them. The fourth sort of Christians, are Nestorians, who are as slaves to the Turk, and have no other language than the Arabian. The fifth, are the Abashenes, being people of the land of Prester john. The sixth, are the jacobines, who are circumcised Christians, but slaves likewise & servants to the Turk. All these (Christians in name) have bought of the Turk their several places in this Church, and by-roomes for ease, being never fewer in number of all these six sorts then 250. or 300. continually there lying, & praying after their manner. The places where they ordinarily use to go & say their devotions, are thus as I describe them, & as the Roman Friars brought me to them; 1. the Pillar whereat our Saviour was whipped. 2. the place where he was imprisoned, while they were preparing or making his Crosse. 3. where the Soldiers divided his garments. 4. where the cross was found by Q. Helena, which is at the foot of mount Caluarie, & hard by it is the chapel of the said Q. Helena. 5. the place where Christ was crowned with thorns: which I could not see, till I was glad to give the Abashenes that kept it two pieces of silver. 6. the place where the Cross being laid along on the ground, our Saviour was nailed fast unto it. 7. The place on the top of mount Caluarie wherein the cross stood when as he suffered. 8. The Rock that rend at his crucifying, which is a thing well worth the beholding for it is slit, like as it had been eleft with wedges and beetles, even from the top to the two third parts downward, as it were through the brow and breast of the Rock: nor is the rent small, but so great in some places, that a man might easily hide himself in it, and so groweth downward less and less. 9 The place where the three Maries anointed Christ after he was dead. 10. where he appeared to Mary Magdalen in the likeness of a Gardener, and hence we came to the Sepulchre itself, which is the last place where they use any prayers: from whence I went to see the Tombs of Baldwin and Godfrey of Boulogne, and returning thence back to the Sepulchre, I measured the distance between place and place, spending thus the time from five of the clock before night when I went in, until the next day at eleven of the clock at my coming forth, writing down all things which I thought noteworthy.  
My companion M. john Burrell and I being thus come forth of the Church, we went to the Pater Guardians to dinner, where we heard tidings that five other Englishmen were arrived at the city gates, directing towards Aleppo. Their names were M. William Bedle, preacher to the English merchants which are Leigers at Aleppo: M. Edward Abbot, servant to the right Worshipful sir john Spenser: M. Geffrey Kirbie, servant to the worshipful M. Paul Banning: and leigers for them in Aleppo: two other young men, the one called john Elkynes, the other jasper Tymne. These five (hearing of my being there) came all to the house, and these (though they saw not mine imprisonment, nor were with me at the sight of those things in and about jerusalem) can witness that they were acquainted therewith at the gates, and estfice the other truths beside. These men, as also my companion M. john Burrell, I left behind me in jerusalem, departing thence to see other places in the country of Palestine: but let me first tell you, what I observed in the city's situation, b●cause I was informed before I came to see it, that it was all ruined, albeit (on the sight thereof) I found it otherwise, having a little Compass about me, to set such places as I could easily come by.  
Understand then first of all, that the very heart of the old city was seated on mount Zion and mount Moria: to the north part whereof, was mount Caluarie without the gates of the old city, about a stones cast and no further. But now I find this new city situated so far to the North part, that it is almost quite off of mount Zion but yet not off mount Moria, which was between mount Zion and mount Calvary: so that now (undoubtedly) the South walls of the city, are placed on the north foot of the hill of Zion. The east wall which doth confront mount Olivet, is a great part of the ancient wall, and so from the southeast angle north, a quarter of a mile behind mount Caluarie: so that mount Caluarie, which was in former times a stones cast without the city, and the appointed place for ordinary execution, I find it to be now seated in the heart or middle of the new city. This mount Caluarie is not so high as to be called a mount, but rather a piked or aspiring Rock for I noted the situation of it, both when I was at the top of it, and when I came to the Sepulchre: the Sepulchre being distant from it (I mean from the foot of it) 173. foot, as I measured it: wher● upon I conclude, that the place of burial, which joseph of Aramathia made for himself, was from the foot of mount Caluarie, 173. foot westward, in which place is the Sepulchre of our Saviour. The Sepulchre itself is two foot and a half high from the ground, eight foot in length, and four foot broad wanting three inches, being covered with a fair stone of white colour. Over the Sepulchre is a Chapel builded, the North wall whereof is joined close with the North side of the Sepulchre: and the Chapel is of like stone as the Sepulchre is, consisting of fifteen foot in breadth, five and twenty foot in length, and about forty foot in height. In this Chapel are always burning thirty or forty Lamps, but upon Festival days more: which are maintained by gifts given at the death of Christians in Spain, Florence, & other parts, to be kept continually burning: and the givers of these Lamps have their names engraven about the upper edges of them, in letters of gold, standing in a band of gold or silver. This Chapel is enclosed with a Church, and yet not it only, but therewith is circkled in all the before named holy places, uz. where Christ was whipped: where he was in prison: where his garments were divided: where the cross was found: where he was crowned with thorns: where he was nailed on the cross: where the cross stood when he suffered: where the vail of the Temple rend: where the three Maries anointed him: where he appeared to Marie Magdalen: & in brief, all the most notable things either about mount Caluarie, or josephes' field of Aramathia, are enclosed within the compass of this Church, which was builded by the fore-remembered Queen Helena, mother to Constantine the great, she being (as I have read in some Authors) an English woman, and daughter to king Coell, that builded Colchester: which being urged to them, they denied it. I measured this Church within, and found it to be 422. fathoms about, the one side of it likewise I found to be 130. fathoms: thus much for mount Caluarie, which is in the midst of the city now.  
From the north-east angle of the city, to the Northwest, is the shortest way of the city, and from the Northwest angle to the south-west, is as far as from the Southeast to the north-east: but from the south-west to the Southeast, which is the south wall that standeth on the foot of mount Zion, I measured, and found it to be 3775. foot, which is about three quarters of a mile. Upon this southside of the city, is a great Iron gate, about which gate are laid seventeen pieces of brass ordinance: this gate is as great as the west gate of the Tower of London, & exceeding strong, the walls being very thick, and on the southside 50. or 60. foot high: so much for the south wall and side of the city. The North wall is not altogether so long, but much stronger: for on the Northside it hath been often surprised, but on the southside never: and on the East side it is impregnable by reason of the edge of the hill which it standeth on, which is five times as high as the wall. On the north side also are 25. pieces of brass ordinance near to the gate, which is of Iron also: but what is in other places, as at the corners or angles, I could not come to see, and demand I durst not. The east wall, containing the gate where saint Stephen was stoned a little without, and to this day called saint Stephen's gate: I saw but five pieces of ordinance there, and they were between the gate and the relic of port Aurea, which is to the southward: and concerning the west side of the city, at the gate whereof I entered at my first arrival, it is very strong likewise, and hath fifteen pieces of ordinance lying near together, and all of brass. This gate is also made of Iron, and this West wall is altogether as long as the East wall, but it standeth upon the higher ground: so that coming from the west to the west wall, you can see nothing within the city but the bare wall: but upon mount Olivet, coming towards the city from the East, you have a very goodly prospect of the city, by reason the city standeth all on the edge of the hill. To conclude, this city of jerusalem is the strongest of all the cities, that I have yet seen in my journey, since I departed from the Grand Cayro: but the rest of the country is very easy to be entreated: yet in the city of jerusalem are three Christians for one Turk, and many Christians in the country round about, but they all live poorly under the Turk.  
Now concerning how the country about jerusalem lieth, for your more easy and perfect understanding, I will familiarly compare the several places, with some of our native English towns and villages, according to such true estimation as I here made of them. Imagine than I begin with London, as if it were the city of jerusalem.  
The city of Bethlem, where Christ our Saviour was born, is from jerusalem as Wansworth is from London, I mean much upon that point in distance.  
The plain of Mamre, is from jerusalem as Guildford is from London: in which place or near to it, is the city of Hebron, where our father Abraham lieth buried.  
Beersheba is from jerusalem, as Alton is from London.  
Ramoth Gylead is from jerusalem, as Reading is from London.  
Gaza, which is the south-west part of Palestine, is from jerusalem as Salisbury is from London.  
Ascalon is from Gaza north-east.  
joppa is from jerusalem, as Alberry is from London.  
Samaria is from jerusalem, as Royston is from London.  
The c●●ie of Nazareth is from jerusalem, as Norwich is from London.  
From Nazareth to mount Tabor and Hermon, is 5. miles' north-east: these two dost and very near together, Tabor being the greater.  
From Tabor to the Sea Tyberias, is eight miles' North-east.  
From jerusalem to mount Sinai is ten days journey, and north-east thence.  
These places last spoken of (beginning at Samaria) I was not in: but the other five Englishmen that met me in jerusalem, coming through Galilee, they came through them, and of them I had this description: they received of me, likewise, the description of my journey through Palestine.  
The place where Christ fasted 40. days and 40. nights, called Quarranto, is from jerusalem as Chelmesford is from London.  
The river jordane (the very nearest part of it) is from jerusalem as Epping is from London.  
jericho, the nearest part of the plain thereof, is from jeursalem as Lowton hall (sir Robert Worths house) is from London.  
The Lake of Sodom and Gomorrah, is from jerusalem as Gravesend is from London.  
The river jordane runneth into this Lake, and there dieth: which is one of the greatest secrets (in my mind) in the world, that a fresh water should run continually into this salt Lake, and have no issue out, but there dieth, and the said Lake continuing still so salt, as no weight (of any reasonable substance) will sink into it, but always floateth: as, a dead man, or a dead beast will never go down. Nay more, whatsoever is brought into it by the river jordane, of any reasonable poise besides the water, it abideth continually upon the superficies of the Lake, and so being tossed thereon by the force of weather, maketh a cougealed forth: which froth being driven up upon the banks, it becometh a kind of black substance like Pitch, which there they call Bitumen, whereof I have brought some part from thence. This Lake is about eight or nine miles broad, & an hundred miles in length, stretching from the north, where jordane falls into it, unto the southward, and hath no further issue that hath been seen by any man.  
The field where the Angel brought tidings of joy to the Shepherds, is from jerusalem as Greenwich from London.  
Mount Olivet is from jerusalem, as Bow from London.  
Bethanie is from jerusalem, as Blackwall from London.  
Bethphage is from jerusalem, as Mile-end from London.  
The valley of Gethsemanie is from jerusalem, as Ratcliffe fields from London.  
The brook Cedron is from jerusalem, as the ditch without Algate, which runs to the Tower from London.  
Mount Zion is now adjoining to new jerusalem, as Southwark to London.  
Thus as plainly, as the time afforded me, have I described unto you the situation of the city of jerusalem, and how the Country lieth near adjoining, which by the familiar comparisons, you may the easter understand. But come we now to the most especial thing of all, to see how justly the Scriptures are fulfilled, that jerusalem should be made a heap of stones: the certainty and truth whereof, all such as have been there (considering and marking it so deeply as I have done) are able to report: for I could see no ground near to the city by fifteen or sixteen miles' distance (the plain of of jericho excepted) but it is all a heap of stones, yea, and i● such exceeding abundance, as I wonder how they can live in it. It fortuned, myself, M. john, and my Moor, being within five miles of the city, and lodging in the fields all night, I sent my Moor to a house not far off, to buy us some bread, for we had nothing to eat: and he returning to us, brought us word, that the master of the house nor his children did ever eat any bread in all their lives: for such is the poor estate of the country, that a man may go ten miles, before you can see a plot of ground to feed a horse or a Cow on: yet the countries round about it, as Palestine on the one side, Galilee on the other, and Syria to the west, are all most goodly plentiful countries: and jerusalem itself, which I thought to have found the very fruitfullest place of all, is the most barrenest place that I saw in all my travail, the deserts only excepted. I can compare no place in England therewith for the like sterility, unless the unfruitfulst place in Cornwall, where there is nothing but rocks and stones, & daily (by the report of the inhabitants) the stones grow and increase more and more. In brief, let all men that have been there, or hereafter shall go thither, speak but rightly and without flattery, and then they will say with me, that jerusalem, and fifteen miles about it every way, is no other than a heap of stones, and the barrenest place in all Mesopotamia. And I am of this mind, that it is quite forsaken of the Lord: for assuredly the greater part of Turks, inhabiting there, do use all manner of most odious filthiness: insomuch, that the Christian dwellers there are forced to marry their children very young, yea, even at ten years of age, for fear lest the Turks should defile or alter them. Boys they keep openly, & shame not to set them at their doors, to show which of them hath the fairest: & (as the better sort of Christians have told me) there is not that sin to be found in the world, but it reigneth & flourisheth in jerusalem: wherefore they use these words of it; Terra sancta, è no mais, to wit, it is the Holy land in name, and no more: yea, the veriest Infidel in all the country calleth it so, for in the Arabian tongue they call it by the name of Cutse, that is, holy.  
So, having my Patent sealed with the great seal of the Pater Guardian, and another Letter patent, showing that I washed in the water of jordane: the 31. of. March I departed from jerusalem, in company of my Moor that holp me out of prison. The 31. at night I came to Ramoth Gilead, and the 1. of April to Ascalon: the 2. to Gaza, which is on the borders of the Deserts, where I hired two wild Arabes with two Dromedaries, to carry me to the city of Grand Cayro. These wild Arabes are no other than thieves, for they are such as make daily prize of Christians, Turks, Moors & all sorts of people, only their own nation excepted. With these two Arabes and my Moor I departed from Gaza, having no other company, and that day (being the 3. of April) we ran these Dromedaries so hard, as at night I began to wax very weary: wherefore I bade my Moor tell the Arabes, that I would eat a few Raisins and rest a little: so we all alighted, for we road two upon each beast, and having made them fast, we went to supper. In mean while, one of the Dromedaries broke loose, and ran back again, which made one of the Arabes take the other beast and presently ride after. The other Arabe went to a cross way over a sand hill, and turned himself so, that both the men & beasts were out of our sight. Then it began to grow dark, and I having no company but my Moor, went alone to the top of the said hill, to see if I could espy either of my thieves: when suddenly I saw four other coming towards me: and by that time I recovered the place where I left my Moor, one of them was close at my heels, and bad the Moor bring me to him. The Moor told them that I had nothing, but was to be carried in four days to Cayro by two of their companions, whose names he delivered to them: whereon they replied, that if this were true, they would do me no hurt: but if the other returned not with the beasts, than they would make prize of us both. At this time I had nothing to lose but the clothes on my back, (very dearly rated at ten groats value) for I had promised the two Arabes, to pay them 24. pieces of gold, so soon as they brought me to the Grand Cayro: but my life was the thing I most of all feared. Within 2. hours after, my two thieves returned, when I might perceive the other four and them to be all fellows: so they gave them a few Raisins and a little water, whereupon the four immediately departed: but questionless if my Moor had not been there with me, I had been carried quite away. The 4. day we came to a place where the the ever had Lents, & there they gave me Camel's milk, and the next night we came to Salhia on the other side of the Deserts: where being sore shaken (albeit my body was well wrapped with rollers) I was constrained to give them over, and hire two horses.  
The Dromedary is a kind of beast like to a Camel, only his head is lesser, and his legs somewhat longer, with a very small neck: and this difference (in comparison) is between a Dromedary and a Camel, as is between a Greyhound and a Mastiff dog. During the four days, the time of my coming from Gaza to Grand Cayro, I never saw them eat or drink: it is said they will fast from water tun days and never drink, but not so long from me at. Thus came I in 4. days as far, as I was going out from Grand Cayro in twelve days: yet for all this, I think a good horse will run faster, but is no way able to continued with this beast, whose pace is a trot, or rather harder if it be possible. At Cayro I paid my thieves and my two Horses, sending them away, and gave mine honest Moor six pieces of gold, with some other things beside to his contentment, and sent him to Mecha with the Caravan. The 7. I stayed in Cayro all day, and at night came to Bollake, where I took a boat: and the 10. of April at nine of the clock in the morning, I came to Rosetta, where taking horse with a javezarie, I came that night to the walls of Alexandria, where I lay all night, because the gates were shut before I came. On the morrow being the 11. I went aboard my Ship the Trojan, in perfect health and safety, I thank my God, having been out in my Pilgrimage from Alexandria just 50. days.  
FINIS.