A Curious Treatise OF The Nature and Quality OF CHOCOLATE. Written in Spanish by ANTONIO COLMENERO, Doctor in physic and Chirurgery. And put into English by Don Diego de Vades-forte. Imprinted at London by J. Okes, dwelling in Little St. Bartholomew's. 1640. To the Right Honourable EDWARD Lord Viscount CONWAY and KILLULTAH; Baron of RAGLEY; Lord Martial of the Army, and Privy counsellor of IRELAND; and one of the counsel of war to His majesty of GREAT Britain. MY LORD, THis Stranger, who hath newly learned the English Tongue, dares not venture himself in public, without a Patronage; which, with all humbleness, he entreats of Your Lordship. The great Affection, Your Lordship hath shown to the Spanish Language; and the Benignity, wherewith You are pleased to entertain whatsoever relisheth of Art, or Ingenuity; makes him hope, You will not refuse Your Favour and Protection to one of that Nation. Nor knows he, where to shelter himself with so much safety; the Eminence of Your Person, and Judgement, being of power to secure him, from all petulant and malicious Exceptions. Be pleased then, my Lord, to receive him with Favour: So may those Excellent, and natural Beauties of this happy Isle (who shall have either Health or Pleasure, from this Confection) be ever serene, and grateful to Your Lordship; presaging increase of Honour, and all Felicity, answerable to the humble Devotion, and hearty Prayers of Your lordship's most obedient, and obliged Servant Don Diego V'ades-forte. The Allowance of Melchor de Lara, physician general for the kingdom of Spain. I Doctor Melchor de Lara physician general for the kingdom of Spain, at the command of Don John de Velasco, and Asebedo, Vicar general of Madrid, have seen this Treatise of Chocolate, composed by Antonio Colmenero of Ledesma; which is very learned, and curious; and therefore it ought to be licenced for the press; it containing nothing contrary to good Manners; and it cannot but be very pleasing to those, who are affected to Chocolate. In testimony whereof, I have subscribed my Name, in Madrid the 23. day of August. 1631. Melchor de Lara. The testimonial of John de Mena, Doctor and physician to the King of Spain. I John de Mena, physician to his majesty, and one of the counsel general of the Inquisition, have seen this Treatise of Chocolate (composed by Doctor Antonio Colmenero of Ledesma) by command of the supreme royal Court of justice: which containeth nothing contrary to good Manners, and the subject is very learnedly handled, and with great Judgement; and no doubt, but it will give much pleasure and content to all those, who are affected to Chocolate; and therefore may be printed: And in confirmation of this truth, I have hereto subscribed my Name the 17. of Septemb. 1631. John de Mena Doctor in physic. To the Reader. THe number is so great of those, who, in these times, drink Chocolate, that not only in the Indies, where this kind of drink hath its original; but it is also much used in Spain, Italy, and Flanders, and particularly at the Court. And many do speak diversely of it, according to the benefit, or hurt, they receive from it: Some saying, that it is stopping: Others, and those the greater part, that it makes one fat: Others, that the use of it strengthens the stomach: Others, that it heats, and burns them: And others say, that although they take it every hour, and in the dog-days, yet they find themselves well with it. And therefore my desire is, to take this pains, for the pleasure, and profit of the public; endeavouring to accommodate it to the content of all, according to the variety of those things, where with it may be mixed; that so every man may make choice of that, which shall be most agreeable to his disposition. I have not seen any, who hath written any thing, concerning this drink; but only a physician of Marchena, who (as it seems) writ only by Relation; holding an opinion, that the Chocolate is stopping, because that Cacao (the principal Ingredient of which it is made) is cold, and dry. But because this only reason, may not have power to keep some from the use of it, who are troubled with oppilations. I think fit to defend this Confection, with philosophical Reasons, against any, whosoever will condemn this drink, which is so wholesome, and so good, knowing how to make the Paste in that manner, that it may be agreeable to divers dispositions, in the moderate drinking of it. And so, with all possible brevity, I shall distinguish and divide this Treatise into four points, or Heads. In the first place I shall declare, what Chocolate is; and what are the Qualities of Cacao, and the other Ingredients of this Confection; where I shall treat of the Receipt set down by the aforesaid Author of Marchena, and declare my opinion concerning the same. The second point shall treat of the Quality, which resulteth out of the mixture of these Simples, which are put into it. In the third place, the manner of Compounding; and how many ways they use to drink it in the Indies. In the fourth, and last place, I shall treat of the Quantity; and how it ought to be taken; at what Time; and by what Persons. The first Point. COncerning the first Point, I say, that Chocolate is a Name of the Indians; which in our vulgar Castilian, we may call a certain Confection, in which (amongst other Ingredients) the principal Basis, and Foundation, is the Cacao; of whose Nature and Quality it is necessary first to treat: And therefore I say, according to the common received opinion, that it is cold, and dry, à praedominio; that is to say, that though it be true, that every Simple contains in it the Qualities of the four Elements, in the action, and reaction, which it hath in it, yet there results another distinct Quality, which we call Complexion. This Quality, or Complexion, which ariseth of this Mixture, is not always one, and the same; neither hath it the effect, in all the mixtures, but they may be varied nine ways; four Simple, from whence one only quality doth abound; and four Compounded, from whence two symbolising qualities are predominant, and one other, which we call ad pondus, which is of all these foresaid qualities, which are in aequilibrio, that is to say in equal measure and degree. Of all these, the Complexion of Cacao is composed, since there arise two qualities, which are cold, and dry; and in the substance, that rules them, hath it restringent and obstructive, of the nature of the Element of the Earth. And then, as it is a mix, and not a simple Element, it must needs have parts correspondent to the rest of the Elements; and particularly, it partakes (and that, not a little) of those, which correspond with the Element of air, that is, Heat and moisture, which are governed by the Unctuous parts; there being drawn out of the Cacao much Butter, which, in the Indies I have seen drawn out of it, for the Face, by the Criollas. It may Philosophically be objected, in this manner: Two contrary Qualities, and Disagreeing, cannot be, in gradu intenso, in one and the same Subject: Cacao is cold and dry, in predominency: Therefore, it cannot have the qualities contrary to those; which are heat, and moisture. The first Proposition is most certain, and grounded upon good Philosophy: The second is consented unto, by all: The third, which is the Conclusion, is regular. It cannot be denied, but that the Argument is very strong, and these reasons being considered by him of Marchena, have made him affirm, that Chocolate is Obstructive; it seeming to be contrary to Philosophy, that it there should be found heat and moisture, in gradu intenso; and to be so likewise in Cold and Dry. To this, there are two things to be answered: One, that he never saw the experience of drawing out the Butter, which I have done; and that when the Chocolate is made without adding any thing to the dried Powder, which is incorporated, only by beating it well together, and is united, and made into a Paste, which is a sign that there is a moist, and glutinous part, which, of necessity, must correspond with the Element of air. The other reason, we will draw from Philosophy; affirming that, in the Cacao, there are different Substances. In the one, that is to say, in that, which is not so fat, it hath a greater quantity of the oily, then of the earthy substance; and in the fatter parts, it hath more of the earthy than of the Oily substance. In these there is Heat and moisture in predominancy and in the other cold and dry. Notwithstanding that it is hard to be believed, that in one and the same substance, and so little of the Cacao, it can have substances so different: To the end that it may appear more easy, clear, and evident, first we see it in the rhubarb, which hath in it hot and soluble parts, and parts which are Binding, Cold and Dry which have a virtue to strengthen, bind, and stop the looseness of the Belly: I say also, that he that sees, and considers the steel, so much of the Nature of the earth, as being heavy, thick, cold, and dry; it seems to be thought unproper for the caring of oppilations, but rather to be apt, to increase them; and yet it is given for a proper remedy against them. This difficulty is cleared thus, that though it be true, that it hath much of the Earthy part; yet it hath also parts of Sulphur, and of quicksilver, which do open, and disopilate; neither doth it so, until it be helped by Art, as it is ground, stirred, and made fine, in the preparing of it; the Sulphurous parts, and those of quicksilver, being thin, active, and penetrative, they mingle, at the last with those parts, which are Earthy and astringent: Insomuch, that they being mingled after this manner, one with another, we cannot now say, that the steel is astringent, but rather, that it is penetrative, attenuating, and opening. Let us prove this Doctrine by Authorities; and let the first be from Galen, lib. 3. of the qualities of Simples, cap. 14. Where, first of all he teacheth, that almost all those Medicines, which, to our sense, seem to be simple, are notwithstanding naturally Compounded, containing in themselves contrary qualities; and that is to say, a quality to expel, and to retain; to incrassate, and attenuate; to rarify, and to condense. Neither are we to wonder at it, it being understood, that in every foresaid Medicine, there is a quality to heat, and to cool; to moisten and to dry. And whatsoever Medicine it be, it hath in it, thick, and thin parts; rare, and dense; soft, and hard. And in the fifteenth Chapter following, in the same book, he puts an example of the Broth of a cock, which moves the Belly; and the Flesh hath the virtue to bind. He puts also the example of the Aloes, which if it be washed, loseth the Purgative virtue; or that which it hath, is but weak. That this differing virtue, and faculty, is found in divers substances, or parts of simple Medicaments, Galen shows in the first book of his simple Medicines, and the seventeenth Chapter, bringing the example of milk; in which, three substances are found, and separated, that is to say, the substance of Cheese, which hath the virtue to stop the flux of the Belly; and the substance of whey, which is Purging; and Butter, as it is expressed in the said Galen, Cap. 15. Also we find in Wine which is in the Must, three substances, that is to say, earth, which is the chief; and a thinner substance, which is the flower, and may be called the scum, or froth: and a third substance, which we properly call Wine; And every one of these substances, contains in itself divers qualities, and virtues; in the colour, in the smell, and in other Accidents. Aristotle in the fourth book of the Meteors and the first Chapter, treating of putrefaction, he found the same substances; and in the second Chapter next following, where he that is curious, may read it. And also by the doctrine of Galen, and of Aristotle, divers substances are attributed to every of the mixed under one and the same form and quantity; which is very conformable to reason, if we consider, that every Aliment, be it never so simple, begets, and produceth in the liver, four humours, not only differing in temper, but also in substance; and begets more or less of that humour, according as that Aliment hath more or fewer parts corresponding to the substance of that humour, which is most engendered. And so in cold diseases, we give warm nourishment; and cold nourishment, in hot diseases. From which evident examples, and many others, which we might produce to this purpose, we may gather, that, when we grind, and stir the Cacao, the divers parts, which Nature hath given it, do artificially, and intimately mix themselves one with an other; and so the vuctuous, warm, and moist parts, mingled with the earthy (as we have said of the steel) represses, and leaves them not so binding, as they were before; but rather with a mediocrity, more inclining to the warm, and moist temper of the air, then to the cold and dry of the Earth; as it doth appear when it is made fit to drink; that you scarce give it two turns with the Molinet when there riseth a fatty scum: by which you may see, how much it partaketh of the oily part. From which doctrine I gather, that the Author of Marchena, was in an error; who, writing of Chocolate, saith, that it causeth oppilations, because Cacao is astringent; as if that astriction were not corrected, by the intimate mixing of one part with an other, by means of the grinding, as is said before. Besides, it having so many ingredients, which are naturally hot, it must of necessity have this effect; that is to say, to open, attenuate, and not to bind, and, indeed, there is no cause of bringing more examples, or producing more reasons, for this truth, then that which we see in the Cacao itself: which, if it be not stirred, and compounded, as aforesaid, to make the Chocolate. But eating of it, as it is in the fruit, as the Criollas eat it in the Indies, it doth notably obstruct, and cause stoppings; for no other cause but this, that the divers substances which it contains, are not perfectly mingled by the mastication only, but require the artificial mixture, which we have spoken of before. Besides, our Adversary should have considered, and called to his memory, the first rudiments of Philosophy, That, à dicto secundum quid, ad dictum simpliciter, non valet consequentia; As it is not enough to say, the Black-a-Moore is white, because his teeth are white; for he may be black, though he have white teeth; and so it is not enough io say, that the Cacao is stopping; and therefore the Confection, which is made of it, is also stopping. The Tree, which bears this fruit, is so delicate; and the earth, where it grows, is so extreme hot, that to keep the tree from being consumed by the Sun, they first plant other trees; and when they are grown up, to a good height, than they plant the Cacao-trees; that when it first shows itself above the ground, those trees, which are already grown, may shelter it from the sun; and the fruit doth not grow naked, but ten or twelve of them are in one Gorde or Codde, which is of the bigness of a great black fig, or bigger, and of the same form, and colour. There are two sorts of Cacao; the one is common, which is of a grey colour, inclining towards red; the other is broader, and bigger, which they call Patlaxte, and this is white, and more drying; whereby it causeth watchfulness, and drives away sleep, and therefore it is not so useful, as the ordinary. This shall suffice to be said of the Cacao. And as for the rest of the ingredients, which make our Chocolaticall Confection, there is notable variety; because some do put into it black Pepper, and also Tavasco; which is not proper, because is is so hot and dry; but only for one, A red root like Madder. who hath a very cold Liver. And of this opinion, was a certain Doctor of the Universite of Mexico, of whom a Religious man of good credit told me, that he finding the ordinary round Pepper was not fit to bring his purpose about; and to the end, he might discover, whether the long red pepper were more proper, he made trial upon the liver of a sheep; and putting the ordinary pepper on one side, and the red pepper Chile. on the other, after 24. hours, the part, where the ordinary pepperlay, was dried up; and the other part continued moist, as if nothing had been thrown upon it. The Receipt of him who wrote at Marchena, is this: Of Cacaos, 700; of white Sugar, one pound and a half; Cinnamon, 2. ounces; of long red pepper, 14. of Cloves, half an ounce: Three cod of the Logwood or Campeche tree; or in stead of that, the weight of 2. Reals, or a shilling of aniseeds; as much of Achiote, as will give it the colour, which is about the quantity of a hazel-nut. Some put in almonds, kernels of Nuts, and orange-flower-water. Concerning this Receipt, I shall first say, This shoe will not fit every foot; but for those, who have diseases, or are inclining to be infirm, you may either add, or take away, according to the necessity, and temperature of every one: and I hold it not amiss, that Sugar be put into it, when it is drunk, so that it be according to the quantity I shall hereafter set down. And sometimes they make Tablets of the Sugar, and the Chocolate together; which they do only to please the palates, as the Dames of Mexico do use it; and they are there sold in shops, and are confected and eaten like other sweetmeats. For the Cloves, which are put into this drink, by the Author aforesaid, the best Writers of this Composition use them not; peradventure upon this reason: that although they take away the ill savour of the mouth, they bind; as a learned Writer hath expressed in these verses: Foetorem emendant or is Cariophila foedum; Construing unt ventrem, primaque membrajuvant. And because they are binding (and hot and dry in the third degree) they must not be used, though they help the chief parts of Concoction, which are the stomach, and the Liver, as appears by the Verses before recited. The husks or cod of Logwood, or Campeche, are very good, and smell like Fennell; and every one puts in of these, because they are not very hot; though it excuse not the putting in of aniseed, as says the Author of this Receipt; for there is no Chocolate without it, because it is good for many cold diseases, being hot in the third degree; and to temper the coldness of the Cacao; and that it may appear, it helps the indisposition of cold parts, I will cite the Verses of one, curious in this Art: Morbosos renes, vesicam, guttura, vuluam, Intestina, iecur, cumque lyene caput Confortat, varijsque Anisum subdita mortis Membra: istud tantam vim leve semen habet. The quantity of a Nut of the Achiote is too little to colour the quantity made according to his Receipt; and therefore, Tabasco. he that makes it, may put it in, as much as he thinks fit. Those, who add almonds, and Nuts, do not ill; because they give it more body and substance than Maiz, or Paniso, which others use; and for my part, I should always put it in to A grain like Millet Chocolate, for Almonds (besides what I have said of them before) are moderately hot, and have a thin juice; but you must not use new almonds, as a learned Author says in these Verses. Dat modicè calidum dulcisque Amigdalasuccum, Et tenuem; inducunt damna nova. And the small Nuts are not ill for our purpose; for they have almost the temper, which the almonds have; only because they are drier, they come nearer the temper of Choler; and do therefore strengthen the Belly, and the stomach, being dried: for so they must be used for the Confection; and they preserve the head from those vapours, which rise from the Belly: as it appears by the said Author in these Verses. Bilis Avellanamsequitur▪ sedroborat aluum Ventris, & à fumis liberat assacaput. And therefore they are proper for such as are troubled with ventuosities, and hypochondriacal vapours, which offend the brain, and there cause such troublesome dreams, and sad imaginations. Those who mix Maiz, or Paniso, in the Chocolate do very ill; because those grains do beget a very melancholy Humour: as the same Author expresseth in these verses. Crassa melancholicum praestant tibi Panica succum Siccant, si ponas membra, geiantque foris. It is also apparently windy; and those which mix it in this Confection, do it only for their profit, by increasing the quantity of the Chocolate; because every Fanega or measure of * Maiz, or Indian Wheat. Grani containing about a bushel and a half, is sold for eight shillings, and they sell this Confection for four shillings a pound, which is the ordinary price of the Chocolate. The cinnamon is hot and dry in the third degree; it provokes Urine, and helps the Kidneys and reins of those who are troubled with cold diseases; and it is good for the eyes; and in effect, it is cordial; as appears by the Author of these verses. Commoda & urinae Cynamomum & renibus affert; Lumina clarificat, dira venenafugat. The Achiote hath a piercing attenuating quality; as appeareth by the common practice of the physicians in the Indies, experienced daily in the effects of it, who do give it to their Patients, to cut, and attenuate the gross humours, which do cause shortness of breath, and stopping of urine; and so it may be used for any kind of oppilations; for we give it for the stoppings, which are in the breast, or in the Region of the belly, or any other part of the Body. And concerning the long red pepper, there are four sorts of it. One is called Chilchotes: the other very little, which they call Chilterpin; and these two kinds, are very quick and biting. The other two are called Tonalchiles, and these are moderately hot; for they are eaten with bread, as they eat other fruits, and they are of a yellow colour; and they grow only about the towns, which are in, and adjoining to the Lake of Mexico. The other Pepper is called Chilpaclagua, which hath a broad husk; and this is not so biting as the first; nor so gentle as the last: and is that, which is usually put into the Chocolate. There are also other ingredients, which are used in this Confection. One called Mechasuchil; and another which they call Vinecaxtli, which in the Spanish they call Orejuelas, which are sweet smelling Flowers, aromatical and hot. And the Mechasuchil hath a Purgative quality; for in the Indies they make a purging potion of it. In stead of this, in Spain they put into the Confection, powder of Roses of Alexandria, for opening the Belly. I have spoken of all these Ingredients, that every one may make choice of those which please him best, or are most proper for his infirmities. The second Point. AS concerning the second point, I say, as I have said before, that though it be true, that the Cacao is mingled with all these Ingedients, which are hot; yet there is to be a greater quantity of Cacao; then of all the rest of the Ingredients, which serve to temper the coldness of the Cacao: Just as when we seek, of two Medicines of contrary qualities, to compound one, which shall be of a modera te temper: In the same manner doth result the same action and reaction of the cold parts of the Cacao, and of the hot parts of the other ingredients, which makes the Chocolate of so moderate a quality, that it differs very little from a mediocrity; and when there is not put in any ordinary pepper, or Cloves, but only a little aniseed (as I shall show hereafter) we may boldly say, that it is very temperate. And this may be proved by reason, and experience: (supposing that which Galen says, to be true, that every mixed medicine, warmeth the cold, and cooleth the hot; bringing the example of oil of Roses.) By experience, I say, that in the Indies (as is the custom of that country) I coming in a heat to visit a sick person, and asking water to refresh me, they persuaded me to take a* Draught of Chocolate; which quenched my thirst: and in the morning (if I Hicara; the shell of a Nut to drink in. took it fasting) it did warm and comfort my stomach. Now let us prove it by reason. We have already proved, that all the parts of the Cacao are not cold. For we have made it appear that the unctuous parts, which are many, be all hot, or temperate: then, though it be true, that the quantity of the Cacao is greater than of all the rest of the Ingredients, yet the cold parts are at the most, not half so many as the hot; and if for all this they should be more, yet by stirring, & mingling of the warm unctuous parts, they are much qualified. And, on the other side, it being mixed with the other Ingredients, which are hot in the second and third degree, being the predominant quality, it must needs be brought to a mediocrity. Like as two men, who shake hands, the one being hot, and the other cold, the one hand borrows heat, and the other is made colder; and in conclusion, neither hand retains the cold, or heat it had before, but both of them remain more temperate. So like wise two men, who go to wrestle, at the first they are in their full vigour and strength; but after they have struggled a while, their force lessens by degrees, till at last they are both much weaker, than when they began to wrestle. And Aristotle was also of this opinion in his fourth book of the Nature of Beasts, cap. 3. Where he says, that every Agent suffers with the patient; as that which cuts, is made dull by the thing it cuts; that which warms, cools itself; and that which thrusts, or forceth forward, is in some sort driven back itself. From whence I gather that it is better to use Chocolate, after it hath been made some time, a month at the least. I believe this time to be necessary, for breaking the contrary qualities of the several Ingredients, and to bring the drink to a moderate temper. For, as it always falls out at the first, that every contrary will have it predominancy, and will work his own, Nature not liking well to be heated and cooled, at the same time. And this is the cause why Galen in his twelfth book of Method, doth advise not to use Philonium, till after a year, or, at the least, six months; because it is a composition made of Opium (which is cold in the fourth degree) and of Pepper, and other Ingredients, which are hot in the third degree. This Theorum, and Doctrine, is made good by the practice, which some have made, of whom I have asked, what Chocolate did best agree with them: and they have affirmed, that the best is that which hath been made some months; and that the new doth hurt by loosening the stomach; And; in my opinion, the reason of it is, that the unctuous or fat parts, are not altogether corrected, by the earthy parts of the Cacao. And this I shall thus prove; for, as I shall declare hereafter, if you make the Chocolate boil, when you drink it, the boiling of it divides the fat and oily part; and that makes a relaxation in the stomach in the old Chocolate, as well as if it were new. So that I conclude in this second point, that the Chocolaticall Consection is not so cold as the Cacao, nor so hot as the rest of the Ingredients; but there results from the action and reaction of these Ingredients, a moderate temper which may be good, both for the cold and hot stomachs, being taken moderately, as shall be declared hereafter; and it having been made a month at the least; as is already proved. And so I know not, why any man having made experience of this Confection (which is composed, as it ought to be, for every particular) should speak ill of it. Besides, where it is so much used, the most, if not all, as well in the Indies, as in Spain, find, it agreeth well with them. He of Marchena had no ground in saying, that it did cause oppilations. For, if it were so, the Liver being obstructed, it would extenuate its subject; and by experience; we see to the contrary, that it makes fat; the reason whereof I shall show hereafter. And this shall suffice for the second point. The third Point. HAving treated in the first point, of the definition of Chocolate, the quality of the Cacao, and of the other Ingredients; and in the second Point, of the Complexion, which results from the mixture of them; There remains now in the third point, to show the way how to mingle them: And first I will bring the best Receipt, and the most to the purpose, that I could find out; although it be true which I have said, that one Receipt cannot be given, which shall be proper for all; that is to be understood of those, who are sick; for those that are strong, and in health, this may serve: and for the other (as I have said in the Conclusion of the first point) every one make choice of the Ingredients, as they may be useful, to this, or that part of his body. The Receipt is this. TO every 100 Cacaos, you must put two cod of the * Chiles; long red Pepper, of which I have spoken before, and are called, in the Indian Tongue, Chilparlagua; and in stead of those of the Indies, you may take those of Spain, which are broadest, and least hot. One handful of aniseed Orejuelas, which are otherwise called Vinacaxlidos: and two of the flowers, called Mechasuehil, if the Belly be bound. But in stead of this, in Spain, we put in six Roses of Alexandria beat to Powder: One Cod of Campeche, or Logwood: Two Drams of cinnamon; almonds, and Hasle-Nuts, of each one Dozen: Of white Sugar, half a pound: Of Achiote, enough to give it the colour. And if you cannot have those things, which come from the Indies, you may make it with the rest. The way of Compounding. THe Cacao, and the other Ingredients must be beaten in a mortar of Stone, or ground upon a broad stone, which the Indians call Metate, and is only made for that use: But the first thing that is to be done, is to dry the Ingredients, all except the Achiote; with care that they may be beaten to powder, keeping them still in stirring, that they be not burnt, or become black; and if they be over-dried, they will be bitter, and lose their virtue. The cinnamon, and the long red Pepper are to be first beaten, with the aniseed; and then beat the Cacao, which you must beat by a little and, little, till it be all powdered; and sometimes turn it round in the beating, that it may mix the better: And every one of these Ingredients, must be beaten by itself; and then put all the Ingredients into the vessel, where the Cacao is; which you must stir together with a spoon, and then take out that Paste, and put it into the mortar, under which you must lay a little fire, after the Confection is made. But you must be very careful, not to put more fire, than will warm it, that the unctuous part do not dry away. And you must also take care, to put in the Achiote in the beating; that it may the better take the colour. You must Searse all the Ingredients, but only the Cacao; and if you take the shell from the Cacao, it is the better; and when you shall find it to be well beaten, and incorporated (which you shall know by the shortness of it) then with a spoon take up some of the Paste, which will be almost liquid; and so either make it into Tablets; or put it into Boxes, and when it is cold it will be hard. To make the Tablets, you must put a spoonful of the paste upon a piece of paper, the Indians put it upon the leaf of a Planten-tree; where, being put into the shade, it grows hard; and then bowing the paper, the Tablet falls off, by reason of the fatness of the paste. But if you put it into any thing of earth, or wood, it sticks fast, and will not come off, but with scraping, or breaking. In the Indies they take it two several ways: The one, being the common way, is to take it hot, with Atolle, which was the drink of the Ancient Indians (the Indians call Atolle pap, made of the flower of Maiz, and so they mingle it with the Chocolate; and that the Atolle may be more wholesome, they take off the husks of the Maiz, which is windy, and melancholy; and so there remains only the best and most substantial part.) Now, to return to the matter, I say, that the other modern drink, which the Spaniards use so much, is of two sorts. The one is, that the Chocolate, being dissolved with cold water, and the scum taken off, and put into another vessel, the remainder is put upon the fire, with Sugar; and when it is warm, then pour it upon the scum you took off before, and so drink it. The other is to warm the water; and then, when you have put it into a pot, or dish, as much Chocolate as you think fit, put in a little of the warm water, and then grind it well with the molinet; and when it is well ground, put the rest of the warm water to it; and so drink it with Sugar. Besides these former ways, there is one other way; which is, to put the Chocolate into a pipkin, with a little water; and let it boil well, till it be dissolved; and then put in sufficient water and sugar, according to the quantity of the Chocolate; and then boil it again, until there comes an oily sum upon it; and than drink it. But if you put too much fire, it will run over, and spoil. But, in my opinion, this last way is not so wholesome, though it pleaseth the palate better; because, when the Oily is divided from the earthy part, which remains at the bottom, it causeth Melancholy; and the oily part loosens the stomach, and takes away the appetite. There is another way to drink Chocolate, which is cold; and it takes its name from the principal Ingredient, and is called Cacao; which they use at feasts, to refresh themselves; and it is made after this manner. The Chocolate being dissolved in water with the Molinet, take off the scum, or crassy part, which riseth in greater quantity, when the Cacao is older, and more putrified. The scum is laid aside by itself in a little dish; and then put sugar into that part, from whence you took the scum; and pour it from on high into the scum; and so drink it cold. And this drink is so cold, that it agreeth not with all men's stomachs; for by experience we find the hurt it doth, by causing pains in the stomach, and especially to Women. I could deliver the reason of it; but I avoid it, because I will not be tedious. There is another way to drink it cold, which is called Cacao Penoli; and it is done, by adding to the same Chocolate (having made the Confection, as is before set down) so much Maiz, dried, and well ground, and taken from the husk, and then well mingled, in the mortar, with the Chocolate, it falls all into flower, or dust: And so these things being mingled, as is said before, there riseth the Scum; and so you take and drink it, as before. There is another way, which is a shorter and quicker way of making it, for men of business, who cannot stay long about it; and it is more wholesome; and it is that, which I use. That is, first to set some water to warm; and while it warms, you throw a Tablet, or some Chocolate, scraped, and mingled with sugar, into a little Cup; and when the water is hot, you power the water to the Chocolate, and then dissolve it with the Molinet; and then, without taking off the scum, drink it, as is before directed. The fourth Part. THere remains to be handled in the last point, of the Quantity, which is to be drunk: at what Time; and by what persons: because if it be drunk beyond measure, not only of Chocolate, but of all other drinks; or meats, though of themselves they are good and wholesome, they may be hurtful. And if any find it Opilative, it comes by the too much use of it; as when one drinks over much Wine, in stead of comforting, and warming himself, he breeds, and nourisheth cold diseases; because Nature cannot overcome it, nor turn so great a quantity into good nourishment. So he that drinks much Chocolate, which hath fat parts, cannot make distribution of so great a quantity to all the parts; and that part which remains in the slender veins of the Liver, must needs cause oppilations, and Obstructions. To avoid this inconvenience; you must only take five or six ounces, in the morning, if it be in winter; and if the party who takes it, be choleric, in stead of ordinary water, let him take the distilled water of Endive. The same reason serves in Summer, for those, who take it physically, having the Liver hot and obstructed. If his Liver be cold and obstructed, then to use the water of rhubarb. And to conclude, you may take it till the month of May; especially in temperate days. But I do not approve, that, in the dog-days, it should be taken in Spain, unless it be one, who by custom of taking it, receives no prejudice by it. And if he be of a hot Constitution, and that he have need to take it in that season, let it, as is said before, be mingled with water of Endive; and once in four days, and chiefly when he finds his stomach in the morning to be weak and fainting. And though it be true, that, in the Indies, they use it all the year long, it being a very hot country, and so it may seem by the same reason it may be taken in Spain: First, I say, that custom may allow it: Secondly, that, as there is an extraordinary proportion of heat, so there is also of moisture; which helps; with the exorbitant heat, to open the pores; and so dissipates, and impoverisheth our substance, or natural vigour: by reason whereof, not only in the morning; but at any time of the day, they use it without prejudice. And this is most true, that the excessive heat of the country, draws out the natural heat, and disperseth that of the stomach, and of the inward parts: Insomuch, that though the weather be never so hot, yet the stomach being cold, it usually doth good. I do not only say this of the Chocolate, which; as I have proved, hath a moderate heat. But if you drink pure wine, be the weather never so hot, it hurts not, but rather comforts the stomach; and if in hot weather you drink water, the hurt it doth is apparent, in that it cools the stomach too much; from whence comes a vitiated Concoction, and a thousand other inconveniences. You must also observe, that it being granted, as I have said, that there are earthy parts in the Cacao, which fall to the bottom of the Cup, when you make the drink, divers are of the opinion, that, that which remains, is the best and more substantial; and they hurt themselves not a little, by drinking of it. For besides, that it is an earthy substance, thick, and stopping, it is of a melancholy Nature; and therefore you must avoid the drinking of it, contenting yourself with the best, which is the most substantial. Last of all, there rests one difficulty to be resolved, formerly pointed at; namely, what is the cause, why Chocolate makes most of them that drink it, fat. For, considering that all of the Ingredients, except the Cacao, do rather extenuate, than make fat, because they are hot and dry in the third degree. For we have already said, that the qualities which do predominate in Cacao, are cold, and dry; which are very unfit to add any substance to the body. Nevertheless, I say, that the many unctuous parts, which I have proved to be in the Cacao, are those, which pinguifie, and make fat; and the hotter ingredients of this Composition, serve for a guide, or vehicall, to pass to the Liver, and the other parts, until they come to the fleshy parts; and there finding a like substance, which is hot and moist, as is the unctuous part, converting itself into the same substance, it doth augment and pinguifie. Much more might be said from the grounds of Philosophy, and physic; but because that is fitter for the schools, than for this discourse, I leave it, & only give this Caution, that in my Receipt, you may add Mellon-seeds, and seeds of Pompions of Valencia, dried, and beaten into powder, where there is any heat of the Liver or kidneys. And if there be any obstructions of the Liver, or spleen, with any cold distemper, you may mix the powder of Ceterach; to which you may add Amber, or musk, to please the scent. And it will be no small matter, to have pleased all, with this Discourse. Errata. IN the Title of the Dedication, read, And one of the Lords of his majesty's most Honourable Privy counsel of Ireland. Page 3. line 14. for mix read mixed. p. ib. l. 32. for that it, r. that in it. p. 6. l. 19 for unctuous r. unctuous. p. 8. l. 2. r the marginal note at Tevasco. p. ib. l. 11. r. the marginal Note at red pepper, p. 13. l. 27. r. own effects. p. 15. l. 12. r. every one may. FINIS.