❧ A declaration of the queens majesties will and commandment, to haue certain laws and orders put in execution against the excess of apparel, notified by her commandement in the Starrechamber the xiij. of february in the xxx. year of her reign. THE queens majesty hath considered into what extremities agreat number of her Subiects are fallen by the unordinate excess in apparel, contrary both to the good laws of the realm, and to her majesties former admonitions by her Proclamations, and to the confusion of degrees of all estates, amongst whom diversity of apparel hath been always a special and laudable mark, and finally to the impoverishing of the realm, by daily bringing into the same of superfluity of foreign and unnecessary commodities, not able to be answered with the natural merchandise of the realm, as in all former times well governed hath been used, and in all other kingdoms and countries is politicly observed. For these and many other weighty considerations, her majesty vpon special care of the weal and good government of her kingdom, hath with the aduise of her Counsel, thought it meet and most necessary at this time, to notify in the latter end of this term of hilary in her high Court of the star chamber, at an assembly of diuers Lords and others of her privy counsel, and all the Iustices of her courts at Westminster, and in the open hearing of a great number of the Iustices of the Peace of all the parts of her realm, and of a multitude of other of her Subiects, that her earnest meaning is, without delay to haue 〈◇〉 speedy reformation of this great intolerable abuse, grown to an unmeasurable disorder, and the same to bee done by due execution of certain parts of her laws remaining in force, in such sort as may best bee agreeable to the present time: And to that end, for the best example of all others that can bee, hath already for her own most honourable household charged and authorized the lord Steward of her household, now present at this assembly, for all persons under his charge, and to the lord chamberlain or Vicechamberlaine for all persons ●nder their rule, to observe such parts of her said laws, and some necessary orders against excess of apparel, 〈◇〉 are hereafter particularly expressed to be duly observed: which to do effectually the said Lord Steward for the household, and the Vicechamberlayne in the absence of the Lord Chamberlayne haue undertaken to see executed. And at the same time also, her majesties pleasure was declared in her said Starrechamber, by the Lord Chancellor of England( as so commanded by her majesty) that all the Iustices of assizes of the realm, who were then there present, should in their next circuit through her whole realm give knowledge thereof in their open Sessions,& to charge all Iustices of peace, that in their quarter Sessions, and in any other their assemblies, and also all Maiors, and Officers of towns Corporate,& all Officers of Liberties in their Courts, should see to the speedy execution thereof, after convenient time to be limited for a reasonable warning, by the said Iustices of assize, for the due execution and punishment of the offenders, so as no subject of the realm shal ●ave cause by ignorance to continue in their offence. The like commandement also was there in that assembly given by the said Lord chancellor to all the Heads, ancients& Principals of houses of Court and chancery, where the aforesaid excess was noted to be more largely of late yeeres spread amongst the youth there, then in any other place of England, to see also to the speedy reformation thereof. The like commandment also was ●here remembered to haue been of late given by her majesties own mouth to the Maior of London, and the Aldermen of the same, being before her majesty in her Presence chamber at her Court. So as it may well appear ●ow earnestly her majesty is resolved to haue this notable disorder and excess speedily& earnestly reformed for ●he benefit of her realm. At the same assembly also was concluded that in the two universities of Cambridge and Oxford, where this infection was seen to haue made entry amongst the youth, there should be by the direction ●f the Lords the Chancelours of the same, a streight order for repressing of the said disordered excess of apparel. ●nd though her majesty might by iustice of her laws, make great profit by the execution of the same laws ●●maining in force against the said excess, by levying the great penalties due to her by execution of the same, ●nd that also some part of the same laws, being made diuers yeeres past, by the alteration of time, may seem insome part hard to be exactly and duly observed in all parts: Therefore hir majesties meaning was there declared at this time to be to make some proof of the execution onely of some parts of the same laws, agreeable for the time hereafter expressed, without charging her subiects with the great forfeitures already due to her majesty, except it shall be against such persons as she shall be provoked by finding them disobedient and unwilling to obey and observe the special clauses and articles hereafter following. certain clauses taken out of the Statute made for reformation of excess of apparel, the xxiiij. year of the reign of king henry the eight. FIrst, it is ordered, that no man under the degree of a marquis, earl, and their children, or under the degree of a Baron, unless he be a knight of the order of the garter, shall wear in any part of his apparel, any wollen cloth made out of any of the queens majesties dominions, except in Bonnettes onely. Item that no man under the degree of a Barons son, or a knight, except he may expend two hundred pounds by year, for term of life, over all charges, shall wear any maner of velvet in his gown, coat, or other his uppermost garment: nor any maner of embroidery, or pricking with gold, silver, or silk, in any part of his apparel, or on thapparell of his Horse or Mule. Item that no man under the foresaid estates and degree, saving such as may dispend in yearly revenues, as is aforesaid, one hundred pounds, above all charges, shall wear any satin, damask, silk Chamblet, or Taffata in his gown, coat, or other his uppermost apparel or garment: nor any velvet, saving in sleeveless Iackettes, Doblettes, Coyffes, Partelettes, and Purses. Item, that no man under the said degrees, saving the son and heir apparent of a man that may dispend three hundred marks by year, above all charges, and such other men as may dispend in yearly revenue, as is aforesaid, forty pounds over all charges, shall wear in his gown, or any other his uppermost apparel, Chamblet, or silk: nor in any other part of his apparel any silk, saving satin, damask, Tafftata, or Sarsenet in his Doblets: and Sarsenet, Chamblet, or Taffata, in the lining of his gowns, or velvet in his sleeveless coats, jackets, jerkins, Coyffes, caps, Purses, or Partelets. The colours of Scarlet, Crymsin or Blewe, always excepted. Item, that no man under the said degrees, saving such gentlemen as may dispend in yearly revenues, as is aforesaid, twenty pounds above all charges, shall wear any maner of silk in any apparel of his body, or of his Horse, or Mule, except it be satin, Taffata, Sarsenet, or damask in his doublet, or Coyffe: and Chamblet in his sleeveless jackets: or points, laces, or garters, made in England or Wales. Item, that no person under the same degrees, saving such as may dispend five pounds by year, as is aforesaid, above all charges, shall wear any silk in his Doblettes or Iackettes: nor any thing made out of the realm, saving Chamblet in their Doblettes and Iackettes. Item that no serving man, nor other Yeoman taking wages, nor such other as may not dispend of freehold forty shillings by year, as is aforesaid, shall wear any shirt, or shirt band, under or vpper cap, bonnet, or Hat garnished, mixed, made, or wrought with silk, gold, or silver: nor shall wear any bonnet, or shirt band, made out of the realm of England or Wales. Item, no Husbandman shall wear in his Doblette, any other thing then that which is wrought within this realm, Fustian and canvas onely except. Item, no serving man in Husbandry, or journeyman in handicrafts, taking wages, shall wear in his doublet, any other thing then Fustian, canvas, Leather, or Wollen cloth. ¶ Item, if any man shal use or wear any Apparel or other thing, contrary to the tenor of the Articles before remembered, then he so offending, shall forfeit the Apparel and thing so worn, wherewith soever it be garnished, or the value thereof, and also iii.s.. iiii.d. in the name of a fine, for every day that he shall so wear the same, contrary to the tenor hereof. ❧ certain other clauses of the Statutes, made in the first and second year of King Philip and queen Mary, necessary also to be observed, to avoyde the excess of apparel. FIrst, that no Englishman, saving the son and heir apparent of a Knight, or such as may of yearly revenues during life, expend twenty pounds above all charges, or be worth in goods two hundreth pounds, shall wear any maner of silk, in or vpon his hat, Bonnet, Nightcap, girdle, scabbard, Hose, shoes, or Spurlethers, vpon pain of three moneths imprisonment, and fine of x. li. for every dayes wearing, contrary to the tenor of this Act. Item, that if any person or persons, of any estate or degree, knowing any servant of his or theirs to offend, contrary to the Article last before remembered, do not put the same servant out of his or their service, but shall keep in his or their service the same offeder or offenders, by the space of xiiii. dayes next after such knowledge had: or so put out, retain him again within one year next after such offence, the same person so retaining or keeping in service any such offender, shall forfeit one hundreth pounds. provided always, that all and every person and persons, which by any statute lawe, remaining in force, is licensed or appoynted to wear any maner of thing, contrary to the tenor and meaning of any of the Articles before remembered, or any part of them, shall and may wear the same to him licensed or appointed to wear, as is aforesaid: Any thing in these Articles to the contrary notwithstanding. ❧ certain other orders meet in this time to be observed for reformation of the excess in certain kind of apparel. FIrst, it is further ordered, that no man under the degree of a Barons son, except that he be of the order of the Garter, or of the privy counsel, or that may dispend five hundred marks by year, for term of life in possession, above all charges, shall use any embroideries or passemayns of gold or silver: nor shall wear any maner of silk neatherstocks of hosen, nor of any other thing, made out of the queens majesties Dominions. Item, it is further ordered, that all the articles before remembered, shalbe put in execution in all points, by all maner of officers, according to the Statutes, laws, and proclamations heretofore made and set forth, concerning the same. And for such as shall contemn any of the orders before mentioned, being devised by her majesties commandement, the offenders to be attached, and committed to prison, and to be there continued and punished, as appertaineth to such as shall wilfully break her majesties commandment in causes concerning the public weal of the realm. It is not meant for any thing above expressed, but that the seruants of Noblemen and gentlemen may wear such livery coats, as their masters shall allow them, with their Badges or other ornaments of any velvet or silk, to be laid, or added to their said livery coats. God save the queen. ❧ Imprinted at London by the deputies of Christopher Barker, printer to the queens most excellent majesty. 13. Febr. Anno 1587. Cum privilegio Regiae Maiestatis.