❀ A declaration of the queens majesties will and commandment, to haue certain laws and orders put in execution against the excess of apparel, notified by her commandement in the Starrechamber the xiij. of february in the xxx. year of her reign. THE queens majesty hath considered into what extremities a great number of her Subiects are fallen by the unordinate excess in apparel, contrary both to the good laws of the the realm, and to her majesties former admonitions by her Proclamations, and to the confusion of degrees of all estates, amongst whom diversity apparel hath been always a special and laudable mark, and finally to the impoverishing of the realm, by daily bringing into the same of superfluity of foreign and unnecessary commodities, not able to be answered with the natural merchandise of the realm, as in all former times well governed hath been used, and in all other kingdoms and coun●… s is politicly observed. For these and many other weighty considerations, her majesty vpon special 〈◇〉 of the weal and good government of her kingdom, hath with the aduise of her Counsel, thought it meet 〈◇〉 most necessary at this time, to notify in the latter end of this term of hilary in her high Court of the S●●rre chamber, at an assembly of diuers Lords and others of her privy counsel, and all the Iustices of her Courts at westminster, and in the open hearing of a great number of the Iustices of the Peace of all the parts of her realm, and of a multitude of other of her Subiects, that her earnest meaning is, without delay to haue ● herd●● reformation of this great intolerable abuse, grown to an unmeasurable disorder, and the same to bee 〈…〉 by due erecution of certain parts of her laws remaining in force, insuch sort as may best bee agreeable to the present time: And to that end, for the best example of all others that can bee, hath already for her own 〈…〉 honourable household charged and authorized the lord Steward of her household, now present at this ●… mblie, for all persons under his charge, and to the lord chamberlain or Vicechamberlaine for all persons ●… der their rule, to observe such parts of her said laws, and some necessary orders against excess of apparel, as are hereafter particularly expressed to be duly observed: which to do effectually the said Lord Steward for the household, and the Vicechamberlayne in the absence of the Lord Chamberlayne haue undertaken to see ex●… rted. And at the same time also, her majesties pleasure was declared in her said Starrechamber, by the Lord Chancellor of England( as so commanded by her majesty) that all the Iustices of assizes of the realm, who were then there present, should in their next circuit through her whole realm give knowledge thereof in their open Sessions, & to charge all Iustices of peace, that in their quarter Sessions, and in any other their assemblies, and also all Maiors, and Officers of towns Corporate, & all Officers of Liberties in their Courts, should see to the speedy execution thereof, after convenient time to be limited for a reasonable warning, by the said Iustices of assize, for the due execution and punishment of the offenders, so as no subject of the realm shal haue cause by ignorance to continue in their offence. The like commandement also was there in that assembly given by the said Lord chancellor to all the Heads, ancients & Principals of houses of Court and chancery, where the aforesaid excess was noted to be more largely of late yeeres spread amongst the youth there, then in any other place of England, to see also to the speedy reformation thereof. The like commandment also was there remembered to haue been of late given by her majesties own mouth to the Maior of London, and the Aldermen of the same, being before her majesty in her Presence chamber at her Court. So as it may well appear how earnestly her majesty is resolved to haue this notable disorder and excess speedily & earnestly reformed for the benefit of her realm. At the same assembly also was concluded that in the two universities of Cambridge and Oxford, where this infection was seen to haue made entry amongst the youth, there should be by the direction of the Lords the Chancelours of the same, a streight order for repressing of the said disordered excess of apparel. And though her majesty might by iustice of her laws, make great profit by the execution of the same laws remaining in force against the said excess, by levying the great penalties due to her by execution of the same, and that also some part of the same laws, being made diuers yeeres past, by the alteration of time, may see me in some part hard to be exactly and duly observed in all parts: Therefore hir majesties meaning was there declared at this time to be to make some proof of the execution onely of some parts of the same laws, agreeable to the time hereafter expressed, without charging her subiects with the great forfeitures already due to her majesty, except it shall be against such persons as she shall be provoked finding them disobedient and unwilling to obey and observe the special clauses and articles hereafter following. certain clauses taken out of the Statute made for reformation of excess of apparel, the xxiiij. year of the reign of king henry the eight. FIrst, it is ordered, that no man under the degree of a marquis, earl, and their children, or under the degree of a Baron, unless he be a knight of the order of the garter, shall wear in any part of his apparel, any wollen cloth made out of any of the queens majesties dominions, except in Bonnettes onely. And no man under the estate of an earl shall wear any cloth of gold or silver, or Tyncell, satin, or any other silk or Cloth mixed or embroidered with gold or silver, except passports and Barons to wear in their Doblets or sleeveless coats, cloth of gold, silver, or Tyncell. Item that no man under the degree of a Barons son, or a Knight, except he may expend two hundred pounds by year, for term of life, over all charges, shall wear any maner of velvet in his gown, coat, or other his uppermost garment: nor any maner of a embroidery, or pricking with gold, silver, or silk, in any part of his apparel, or on thapparell of his Horse or Mule. Item that no man under the foresaid estates and degree, saving such as may dispend in yearly revenues, as is aforesaid, one hundred pounds, above all charges, shall wear any satin, damask, silk Chamblet, or Cassata in his gown, coat, or other his uppermost apparel or garment: nor any velvet, saving in sleeveless Iackettes, Doblettes, Coyffes, Partelettes, and Purses. Item, that no man under the said degrees, saving the son and heir apparent of a man that may dispend three hundred marks by year, above all charges, and such other men as may dispend in yearly revenue, as is aforesaid, forty pounds over all charges, shall wear in his gown, or any other his uppermost apparel, Chamblet, or silk: nor in any other part of his apparel any silk, ●s; aving satin, damask, Taffata, or ●… rsenet in his Doblets: and Sarsenet, Chamblet, or Taffata, in the lining of his gowns, or velvet in his ●… uelesse coats, jackets, jerkins, Coyffes, caps, Purses, or Partelets. The colours of Scarlet, Crymsin or Blewe, always excepted. Item, that no man under the said degrees, saving such gentlemen as may dispend in yearly revenues, as is aforesaid, twenty pounds above all charges, shall wear any maner of silk in any apparel of his body, or of his Horse, or Mule, except it be satin, Taffata, Sarsenet, or damask in his doublet, or Coyffe: and Chamblet in his sleeveless jackets: or points, laces, or garters, made in England or Wales. Item, that no person under the same degrees, saving such as may dispend five pounds by year, as is aforesaid, above all charges, shall wear any silk in his Doblettes or Iackettes: nor any thing made out of the realm, saving Chamblet in their Doblettes and Iackettes. Item that no serving man, nor other Yeoman taking wages, nor such others as may not dispend of freehold forty shillings by year, as is aforesaid, shall wear any shirt, or shirt band, under or vpper cap, bonnet, or Hat garnished, mirt, made, or wrought with silk, gold, or silver: nor shall wear any bonnet, or shirt band, made out of the realm of England or Wales. Item, no Husbandman shall wear in his Doblette, any other thing then that which is wrought within this realm, Fustian and canvas onely except. Item, no serving man in Husbandry, or journeyman in handicrafts, taking wages, shall wear in his doublet, any other thing then Fustian, canvas, Leather, or Wollen cloth. ¶ Item, if any man shal use or wear any Apparel or other thing, contrary to the tenor of the Articles before remembered, then he so offending, shall forfeit the Apparel and thing so worn, wherewith soever it be garnished, or the value thereof, and also iii. s. iiii. d. in the name of a fine, for every day that he shall so wear the same, contrary to the tenor hereof. ❧ certain other clauses of the Statutes, made in the first and second year of King Philip and queen Mary, necessary also to be observed, to avoyde the excess of apparel. FIrst, that no Englishman, saving the son and heir apparent of a Knight, or such as may of yearly revenues during life, expend twenty pounds above all charges, or be worth in goods two hundreth pounds, shall wear any maner of silk, in or vpon his hat, Bonnet, Nightcap, girdle, scabbard, Hose, shoes, or Spurlethers, vpon pain of three moneths imprisonment, and fine of x. li. for every dayes wearing, contrary to the tenor of this Act. Item, that if any person or persons, of any estate or degree, knowing any servant of his or theirs to offend, contrary to the Article last before remembered, do not put the same servant out of his or their service, but shall keep in his or their service the same offeder or offenders, by the space of xiiii. dayes next after such knowledge had: or so put out, retain him again within one year next after such offence, the same person so retaining or keeping in service any such offender, shall forfeit one hundreth pounds. provided always, that all and every person and persons, which by any statute lawe, remaining in force, is licensed or appoynted to wear any maner of thing, contrary to the tenor and meaning of any of the Articles before remembered, or any part of them, shall and may wear the same to him licensed or appointed to wear, as is aforesaid: Any thing in these Articles to the contrary notwithstanding. ❧ certain other orders meet in this time to be observed for reformation of the excess in certain kind of apparel. FIrst, it is further ordered, that no man under the degree of a Barons son, except that he be of the order of the Garter, or of the privy counsel, or that may dispend five hundred marks by year, for term of life in possession, above all charges, shall use any embroideries or passemayns of gold or silver: nor shall wear any maner of silk neatherstocks of hosen, nor of any other thing, made out of the queens majesties Dominions. Item, it is further ordered, that all the articles before remembered, shalbe put in execution in all points, by all maner of officers, according to the Statutes, laws, and proclamations heretofore made and set forth, concerning the same. And for such as shall contemn any of the orders before mentioned, being devised by her majesties commandement, the offenders to be attached, and committed to prison, and to be there continued and punished, as appertaineth to such as shall wilfully break her majesties commandment in causes concerning the public weal of the realm. It is not meant for any thing above expressed, but that the seruants of Noblemen and gentlemen may wear such livery coats, as their masters shall allow them, with their Badges or other ornaments of any beluet or silk, to be laid, or added to their said livery coats. XXV. Februar. 1587. certain notes out of the Statutes above mentioned for dispensations with sundry persons not being in any certainty afore expressed, whereof all such persons as thereby are to be dispensed withall, may be better informed by perusal of the said Statutes. ALl Officers and seruants waiting vpon the queens majesty her household, being in her check Roll, may wear such apparel as to them shalbe limited, licenced and declared in writing by her majesty, or by the L. steward of her household, or by the L. chamberlain, they knowing the same to be the queens majesties pleasure. There are also special and several provisions contained in the said Statute for sundry degrees of persons as hereafter followeth. First for the L. chancellor, and L. treasurer of England, the President of the Kings Counsel, the L. privy seal, of what degree soever they be: And in like maner there are provisions for all persons having taken degrees of learning in any university, and also for any of the Kings most honourable Counsel, Iustices of the Benches, Barons of the exchequer, Master of the rolls, Sergeants of the Lawe, Masters of the chancery, Apprentices of the Lawe, the Kings physicians, all head Officers of towns corporate, Barons of the v. ports. provisions also are there expressed for utter Barresters in inns of Court, to wear such apparel as men that can dispend xx. li. lands may do. And in like maner provisions are made for Students of the inns of Court or chancery, & seruants to Noble men and Gentlemen for their doublets or jackets. Of all which provisions or exceptions with sundry others contained in the said Statute not here particularly expressed, appertaining to a few other, every person is to inform himself diligently, howe far forth he or they may by licence of the said provisions, wear any thing prohibited by the general words of the Lawe. A provision is in the Statute of K. Philip and O. Mary, that the same statute shall not extend to any person, being of or above the degree of a Knights son or daughter, nor to the wife of any such, nor to any Maior or principal Officer of any town Corporate, nor to the wife of any of them, nor to any of the queens seruants in ordinary wages, and wearing the queens ordinary liveries, but that they may wear such apparel, as they lawfully might haue done, before the making of the said Statute. There is a proviso also that no person shalbe compelled by the act to put away his prentice, or hired seruant before the end of his term, nor to forfeit anything for the keeping of such prentice or seruant after his offence, unto the end of the term. A proviso also is for women to wear in their caps, hats, Girdels, and Hoods, as they might haue done lawfully before the making of the same Statute. ❀ A brief content of certain clauses of the Statute of King Henry the eight, and queen Mary, with some moderations thereof to be observed accordingly. ❧ Mens apparel. 〈…〉 silk of the colour of purpur, Cloth of gold tissued, nor fur of Sables. but only the King. queen. Kings Mother. Children. Brethren & sisters. Vncles & Auntes. and except Dukes, Marquesses, & earls, who may wear the same in doublets, jerkins, linings of cloaks, gowns and Hose. And those of the Garter, Purple in mantles onely. Cloth of gold. silver. Tinseld satin. silk, or Cloth mixed or embroidered with an gold or silver. except All degrees above passports, and passports, Barons, and other persons of like degrees, in Dublettes, jerkins, linings of cloaks, gowns and Hose. Wollen cloth made out of the realm, but in caps onely. velvet Crimson or Scarlet. furs black jenets. Lusernes. embroidery, or tailors work, having gold, or silver, or pearl therein. except Dukes, Marquesses, earls and Their children. Vicountes, Barons, and knights, being companions of the Garter, or any person being of the privy counsel. velvet in gowns, coats, or other uttermost garments. fur of Libards. embroidery with any silk. except Men of the degrees above mentioned, Barons sons, Knights, and Gentlemen in ordinary office attendant vpon her majesties person, and such as haue been employed in Ambassages to foreign Princes. caps, hats. Hatbands, Capbands. Garters, Bootehose. silk Netherstockes. trimmed with gold or silver, or pearl. enameled chains. Buttons. Aglets. except Men of the degrees above mentioned, the Gentlemen attending vpon the queens person in her highnsse privy Chamber, or in the office of Cupbearer, carver, Shewer, esquire for the body, Gentlemen ushers, or esquires of the Stable. satin, damask, silk Chamlet, or Taffata, in gown, coat, Hose, or uppermost garments. fur whereof the kind groweth not within the queens Dominions, except foins, gray jenets and Budge. except The degrees and persons above mentioned, and men that may dispend C.li. by the year, and so valued in the subsidy book. Hat, Bennet, Girdle, Scabberds of swords, daggers, &c. of velvet. Shoes and Pantophles. of velvet. except The degrees and persons above name, and the son and heir apparent of a Knight. silk, other then satin, damask, Taffata, Chamlet, in Dublettes: and sarsenet, Chamlet, or Taffata, in facing of gowns and cloaks, and in coats, jackets, jerkins, coifs, Purses, being not of colour Scarlet, Crimson, or Blewe. fur of foins, gray jenets, or other, as the like groweth not in the queens dominions. except Men of the degrees and persons above mentioned, son of a Knight, or son and heir apparent of a man of C C C. mark land by year, so valued in the subsidy books, and men that may dispend xl. li. by the year, so valued, vt supra. 〈…〉 gilded, silvered, or Damasked. spurs. Swords. Rapiers. Daggers. Skaynes. Woodkniues, or Hangers. Buckles of Girdles. except knights and Barons sons, and other of higher degree or place, and Gentlemen in ordinary office attendant vpon the queens majesties person, which Gentlemen so attendant, may wear all the premises, saving gilded, silvered, or Damasked spurs. 〈…〉 Trappings or harness of their horse, any studs, Buckels, or other garniture, gilded, silvered or damasked, nor stirrups guilt, silvered, or damasked, nor any velvet in saddles or horse Trappers, except The persons next before mentioned, and others of higher degrees, and Gentlemen in ordinary, vt supra. 〈…〉 chancellor. treasurer. President of the Counsel. privy seal. may wear any velvet, satin, or other silks, except purpur. Furries, except black jenets. 〈…〉 Kings counsel. Iustices of either bench. Barons of the exchequer. Master of the rolls. Sergeants at Lawe. Masters of the chancery. Of the queens counsel. apprentices of Lawe. physicians of the King, queen, and Prince. Maiors and other head officers of any towns corporate. Barons of the v. Ports. except velvet. damask. satin. of the colour Crimson. Violet, purpur, Blewe. Note that her majesties meaning is not, by this order, to forbid in any person wearing of silk buttons, the facing of coats, cloaks, hats, and caps, for comeliness onely with Taffata, Grograyne, velvet, or other silk as is commonly used. Note also that the meaning of this order, is not to prohibit a seruant from wearing of any cognisance of his master, or Henchmen, Heralds, Purseuantes at arms, Runners at Iustes, Turnaies, or such martiall feats, and such as wear apparel given by the queen, and such as shall haue licence from the queen for the same. ¶ Womens apparel. 〈…〉 Cloth of gold, Tissue, nor fur of Sables. except Duchesses, Marquesses, and Countesses, in their gowns, Kertles, Partlets, & sleeves. Cloth of gold. silver. Tinseld satin. silk or cloth mixed or embroidered with gold, or silver, or pearl, saving silk mixed with gold or silver in linings of cawls, Partelets, and sleeves. except All degrees above Vicountesses, & Vicountesses, Baronnesses, and other personages of like degrees, in their Kirtles and sleeves. velvet Crimson. Carnation. furs black jenets. Lusernes. embroidery or passement lace of gold or silver. except All degrees above mentioned. The wives of knights of the Garter, and of the privy Counsel. The Ladies and gentlewomen of the privy Chamber, and bed Chamber, & Maidens of honour. 〈…〉 〈◇〉 in gowns furs of Libardes. embroidery of silk. except The degrees and persons above mentioned, the wives of Barons sons, or of knights. cawls. sleeves. P●●tlets, and linings, trimmed. With Spangles, or purls of gold, silver, or pearl. cawls of gold, or silver, or of silk, mixed with gold or silver. except The degrees and persons above mentioned, and trimmed with pearl, none under the degree of a Baronesse, or those of like degrees. enameled chains. Buttons. Aglettes. Borders. except The degrees before mentioned. satin, damask, or tuffed Taffata. in gowns, Kyrtles, or velvet in Kyrtles. fur, whereof the kind groweth not within the queens Dominions, except foins, gray jenettes, Budge, and wolf. except The degrees or persons above mentioned, or the wives of those that may dispend C.li. by the year, and so valued in the subsidy book. gowns of silk Grograine. Dubled sarsenet. Chamlet, or Taffata, or Kyrtles of satin, or damask. except The degrees and persons above mentioned, & the wives of the sons and heirs of knights, and the daughters of knights, and of such as may dispend iii. C. marks by the year, so valued vt supra, and the wives of those that may dispend xl. li. by the year. Gentlewomen attendant vpon Dutchesses, Marquesses, Countesses, may wear in their liveries given them by their mistresses, as the wives of those that may dispend C.li. by the year, and are so valued, vt supra. Gentlewomen attendant vpon passports wives, and Barons wives, may wear in their liveries, as the daughters of such as may dispend iii. C. marks by the year, and as the wives of those that may dispend xl. li. valued, vt supra. 〈…〉 velvet, tuffed Taffata, satin, or any gold, or silver, in their petticoats. except wives of Barons, Knights of the Order, or counsellors, Ladies, and Gentlewomen of the privy chamber, & bed chamber, & the maidens of honor. damask, Taffata, or other silk in their petticoats. except knights daughters, and such as bee matched with them in the former article, who shall not wear a gard of any silk vpon their petticoats. velvet, tuffed Taffata, satin, or any gold, or silver in any cloak or safeguard. except The wives of Barons, knights of the Order, or counsellors, ladies, and Gentlewomen of the privy Chamber, and bed chamber, and the maidens of honour, and all degrees above them. damask, Taffata, or other silk. in any cloak or safeguard. except Knight wives, and the degrees and persons above mentioned. * No persons under the degrees above specified, shall wear any guard or welt of silk, vpon any Peticoate, cloak, or safeguard. God save the queen. ❀ Imprinted at London by the deputies of Christopher Barker, printer to the queens most excellent majesty. 19. Martij. Anno 1587. Cum privilegio Regiae Maiestatis.