A Hertochs fecit  
The French GARDINER: INSTRUCTING How to Cultivate all sorts of FRUIT-TREES, AND HERBS for the GARDEN: TOGETHER With directions to dry and conserve them in their Natural; Three times printed in France, and once in Holland.  
An accomplished Piece, First written by R. D. C. D. W. B. D. N. And now Transplanted into English by PHILOCEPOS.  
LONDON, Printed by I. C. for john Crook at the Ship in St. Paul's Churchyard. 1658.   

TO My most Honoured and Worthy Friend THOMAS HENSHAW, Esquire.  
Sir,  
I Have at length obeyed your Commands, only I wish the Instance had been more considerable: though I cannot but much approve of the design and of your election in this particular work, which is certainly the best that is exstant upon this Subject, notwithstanding the plenty which these late years have furnished us withal. I shall forbear to publish the accident which made you engage me upon this Traduction; because I have long since had inclinations, and a design of communicating some other things of this nature from my own experience: and especially, concerning the Ornaments of Gardens, etc. Because, what respects the Soil, the Situation and the planting is here performed to my hand with so mu●h ingenuity, as that I conceive there can very little be added, to render it a piece absolute and without reproach. In order to this, my purpose was to introduce the least known (though not the least delicious) appendices to Gardens; and such as are not the Names only, but the Descriptions, Plots, Materials, and ways of contriving the Ground for Parterrs, Grotts, Fountains; the propor●ions of Walks, Perspectives, Rocks, Aviaries, Vivaries, Apiaries, Pots, Conservatories, Piscina's, Groves, Crypta's, Cabinets, Echoes, Statues, and other ornaments of a Vigna, etc. without which the best Garden is without life, and very defective. Together with a Treatise of Flowers, and Ever-greens; especially the Palisades and Contr-Espaliers of Alaternus, which most incomparable Verdure, together with the right culture of it, for beauty and fence, I might glory to have been the first propagator in England. This, I say, I intended to have published for the benefit or divertisement of our Country, had not some other things unexpectedly intervened, which as yet hinder the birth and maturity of that Embryo.  
Be pleased, Sir, to accept the productions of your own Commands; as a Lover of Gardens you did promote it, as a Lover of you I have translated it. And in the mean time that the Great ones are busied about Governing the World (which is but a Wilderness) let us call to mind the Rescript of Dioclesian to those who would persuade him to reassume the Empire. For it is impossible that he who is a true Virtuoso, and has attained to the felicity of being a good Gardener, should give jealousy to the State where he lives. This is not Advice to you who know so well how to cultivate both your self and your Garden: But because it is the only way to enjoy a Garden, and to preserve its Reputation. Sir, I am  
Your most Humble and most Obedient Servant J. E.   

TO THE READER.  
I Advertise the Reader that what I have couched in four Sections at the end of this Volume, under the Name of an Appendix, is but a part of the third Treatise in the Original: there remaining three Chapters more concerning Preserving of fruits with Sugar; which I have therefore expressly omitted, because it is a Mystery that I am little acquainted withal; and that I am assured by a Lady (who is a person of quality, and curious in that Art) that there is nothing of extraordinary amongst them, but what the fair Sex do infinitely exceed, whenever they please to divertise themselves in that sweet employment.  
There is also another Book of the same Author entitled Les delices de la Campagne, (or the Delights of the Country) being as a second Part of this: wherein you are taught to prepare and dress whatsoever either the Earth or the Water do produce, Dedicated to the good Housewives: There you are instructed to make all sorts of French Bread, and the whole Mystery of the Pastry, Wines, and all sorts of drinks. To accommodate all manner of roots good to eat; cocking of Flesh and Fish, together with precepts how the Major Domo is to order the services, and treat persons of quality at a Feast, a la mode de France, which such as affect more than I, and do not understand in the Original, may procure to be interpreted, but by some better hand than he that did the French Cook, which (being as I am informed an excellent Book of its kind) is miserably abused for want of Skill in the Kitchin.  
If any man think it an employment fit for the Translator of this former part; it will become him to know, that though I have some experience in the Garden, and more divertisement, yet I have none in the Shambles; and that what I here present him was to gratify a noble Friend, who had only that empire over me, as to make me quit some more serious Employments for a few days in obedinc● to his command.  
Farewell.  
  

THE French Gardener.  

The first Treatise.  

SECTION I.  
Of the Place, of the Earth and mould of the Garden, together with the means to recover and meliorate ill ground.  
Site. ALL those who have written concerning the husbandry of the Country, have accompanied it with so many insupportable difficulties about the disposition of the Edifices, and other parts appertaining to the Demesnes, that it were altogether impossible to accommodate a place suitable to their prescription: forasmuch as the Situations never perfectly correspond to their desires: and therefore I shall by no means oblige you to the particular Site of your Garden,; you shall make use of the places as you find them, if already they are laid out: or else you shall (with good advice) prepare a new one in some part that lies most convenient to your Mansion.  
Soil. Touching the Ground, if you meet with that which is good, it will be to your great advantage, and much lessen your expense: but it is very rarely to be found where the land doth not require a great deal of labour: for many times the surface of the ground shall be good, which (being opened the depth of a spadebit only) will be found all clay underneath which is a more pernicious mould for Trees then the very Gravel itself: since in Gravel, the roots may yet encounter some small veins for their passage in searching the moisture beneath from whence to draw nourishment: but the Clayie which is a sort of earth (wherewithal the Bakers of Paris do make the hearths of their Ovens) is like a board, so thick, and hard, that the roots cannot Pierce it: and in the extraordinary heats of Summer it hinders the moisture which is below, that it can by no means penetrate; in so much as the Trees and other plants become so extremely dry, that instead of advancing their growth they altogether languish, and in conclusion perish.  
Dressing For redress of this defect, there is only one expedient; and that is by hollowing and breaking up the ground 3 or 4 foot deep, beginning with a trench 4 or 5 foot large, the whole length of the place that you will thus open, casting the several moulds all upon one side; and thus when your trench is voided and emptied to the depth which you desire, you shall cast in long dung, of the Marc, or husks of the winepress, or Cider, and fern (which if you can commodiously procure is of all other composts the best) leaves of trees, even to the rotten sticks and mungy stuff to be found under old wood piles, moss, and such like Trash; in fine whatever you can procure with the most ease and least charge: for all the design in this stirring the ground is only to keep it hollow, that so the moisture beneath may invigorate the Trees, and plants during the excessive drouths.  
You shall therefore lay it half a foot thick at the bottom of your Trench; and afterwards dig a second of the same proportion, casting the mould which lies uppermost (and which is ever the best) upon the dung, and so making this Second trench as deep as the former, you shall fill your first trench; and the mould which you found undermost, shall now lie on the top, thus continuing your Trenches, till you have finished the whole piece.  
Peradventure you may object, that the earth which you take from beneath, will be barren? I confess with you, that for the first year, the goodness of it will not appear, but when (with that little amendment which you bestow upon it) it shall be mellowed by the rains, and frosts of one Winter, it shall produce abundantly more than what before lay above, which being exhausted and worn out through the long usage, hath certainly lost a great part of its virtue.  
Neither are all Seasons proper for this Labour; because during the great heats, This earth is so extremely hard and bound, that neither Crow, nor Pickax can enter it. The Winter is then the most convenient season of all other; for as much as the Autumn raines, having well moistened the earth, it is dug with the more facility; and besides, the rain, the snow, and the frosts, which are frequent in that season, contribute much to the work; nor are Labourers (being at that time less employed) so chargeable, as when they work in the Vineyards, and during August, when they are hardly to be procured for money.  
As concerning the bottom, where you encounter with Gravel, you shall husband it as we have already described, by breaking it, and the stones that are mingled in the ground shall be carried out of the Garden. But in case the gravel lie not very thick and that when it is broken up you arrive at sand, or to another smaller loose gravel, it shall suffice that it be broken up without flinging out of the trench: since the Trees will shoot sufficient roots amongst this smaller gra●vell, by reason of the moisture which the duug lying above them will coutribute.  
You must remember to lay excellent dung half consumed at the bottom of such Trenches out of which you have cast the gravel, to the end that the rain and all other refresh may the more easily pass through it; especially if it be of the husks of the press, fern and the like, such as we have already mentioned.  
You will object (I suppose) that to trench and dress a whole Garden in this manner is to engage one into an extraordinary expense? I grant it indeed, but it is once for all, and the emolument which will result from one such Labour, will recompense the charge an hundred fold: since the Trees will be more beautiful, without moss, or galls, and without comparison produce their Fruits abundantly more fair than those which are planted in a ground which is not thus dressed.  
Artichokes, Leeks, and other roots grow there to a monstrous bigness: briefly you will find yourself so extremely satisfied perceiving the difference, to what your Garden produced before it was thus loosened, that you will have no cause to regret your expenses.  
However if you would be yet more thrifty, I shall instruct you how by another expedient you may amend your Garden with less charge, but withal, as the expense will not be so great, so neither will the product be so fair. Of this I purpose to treat hereafter, in the planting of pole-hedges and the Kitchen-garden.  
Many that are curious do extremely exceed all this: for they pass all their Earth through a Hurdle to clear it from the stones, which is done by placing the Hurdle or Cive upon the margin of the Trench, and so shoveling the mould to the top of the Cive, the earth passes, and the stones roll to the foot of the Cive, which are afterwards carried forth of the Garden.  
The form of this Cive is a frame joined together, two Inches thick, six-foot high, and five foot in breadth which shall have two cross quarters within the height, of the same bigness of the frame, and all the four cross pieces shall be equally blared about the bigness of those sticks which the Chandler's use to make their Candles on; these holes must be a finger's thickness distant one from another, and in them you shall fit sticks of Dog-wood because it is tough and very hard when it is dry, and which will endure longer without breaking then any other. Note, that both the top, and the bottom of your frame must be pierced quite through, that when any of the sticks are broken, you may put new ones in their places, fastening them with small wedges at the extremes.   

SECT. II.  
Of Espaliers, or Wal-fruit and of single pole-hedges and shruls.  
Wall-fruit▪ ●edges. WAl-fruits being the principal ornament of Gardens it is most reasonable that we should assign them the most eminent place and give a full description of them, as being indeed the subject upon which I determine chiefly to discourse in this first Treatise.  
By Espalier, we mean those Trees with which the Walls of Gardens be adorned and furnished: To bring this to perfection you must make a Large trench, as I have described it before. If the ground be of Clay, you are to husband it as hath been spoken of Clay, and if of a rocky nature, as of rocky: But you shall leave one foot of Earth unbroken, next to the wall, for fear lest you endanger the foundation; and after having laid a bed of Dung, of half a foot thick at the bottom of your trench, you shall cast thereupon, of the very best mould which came forth of the Trench to the thickness of a foot; This done, you shall mark out the places where you design to plant your Trees, which shall be at a reasonable distance. That of twelve foot to me seems the most convenient; but this at your own discretion, I shall oblige you to no Law, every man hath his particular fancy, but my opinion is, that if they are planted nearer, they will much incommode one another in few years, if farther remote, and that a tree chance to die, or that you graft an other, whose fruit may peradventure not please you it will extremely vex you to see your wall so long disfurnished, and naked in that place.  
Distance. Having thus marked the place for your trees, according to the proportion of 12 feet, you shall cause the pits where you plant them to be filled (at three foot distance from either side of your mark) with the best mould, which must be mingled with short dung of an old Melon bed, or else with some other, which before had been employed in your Garden for plants; and thus there will remain a space of six foot, in which interval you shall cast a second Layer of Cow, hogs, or sheep's dung very fat and well rotten, after this you shall fling thereupon the mould which you had out of the trench, and dressing your border, make it very even.  
Planting. You shall make the holes for your trees, at the places before marked out, and plant them handsomely, making a small heap in the centre of the pit, to set your tree upon, whilst you extend the roots all about it, drawing them downward, and then the hole being filled, and the mould cast in, you may tread it about the Tree the better to fix it, and fill up the hollow places.  
You may if you please, before you plant, break away the ledge of earth to the very Wall a foot on either side of the place where you intent to plant your trees, without the least prejudice to your wall.  
You shall set your tree a foot distant from the wall, the branches somewhat inclining towards it, for the more ornament in their growth, this will also bring the roots better to the middle of your Trench, by which they will more easily find nourishment.  
Have a special care that you put no other dung near the roots of your Trees, than that short stuff of the old bed (which it will be good to mingle also with store of excellent mould) lest the summer burn it all; for as much as new dung keeps the earth hollow and loose till it be totally consumed; but if otherwise you cast it into the intervals, when your Trees are once taken, and that their roots within 2 or 3 years have found this excellent dung (which will by that time be quite rotten) they will shoot wonderfully, produce a clean bark, and most incomparable fruit.  
Concerning Esphaliers (which I will English Palisades) I will show you several forms of accommodating then according to the age of your trees. 
* Pole-hedge set up against a wall, much used in France.   
The first is, To fix small Stakes into the ground half a foot distant from your Wal, to begin to conduct the tender sprouts of your trees, and if need require, you may add some cross poles or Laths, as many as are necessary, binding to them your tender shoots with the gentlest osiers, or rushes, without knitting them too fast, but only to guide them for the present.  
The second manner shall be to make a hedge of Poles, and laches equally canceled and well bound, which, being of greater strength than the former, will oblige the trees to what flexure and form you please.  
The third is a Lattice fashioned to the Wall, and supported with the bones of horses legs or by iron hooks, fixed in the wall, lest otherwise the tree, rising and forcing it to come at the fresh air, bend it forwards, and break or overturn the hedge, whose Stakes are only fixed in the loose and newly broken up earth, and besides, with length of time they become rotten.  
See the figure or first plate. The fourth, which is the most substantial of all the rest, and more easily maintained, is to place in the wall the ends of wooden blocks, about the bigness of a strong rafter, which are to be placed at eight equidistant squares, projecting only six inches from the wall, in which you shall boar holes with an Auger an inch and an half deep, and some two inches from the ends: be sure to place them at equal distance, for height, and breadth; and in the midst of every square, there shall be also one block, resembling the figure of a quincunce.  
Then you shall provide Laths, or poles, which you shall cause to be made exactly of the length, that your blocks-ends are placed, which Laths or poles you shall shave and fit at both ends, to enter into the holes made in the extremes of the blocks, and to fix them well you shall bend them alittle like a bow, putting the two ends into the opposite holes and letting the bow go, they will force in themselves so strongly as that they shall need no other fastening. The figure which is at the beginning of the treatise, will sufficiently inform you.  
When your Trees are now a little strong, they will not need to be spread with so much wood, as when they are young; it shall suffice in these kinds of Espaliers to stop the strongest branches only. And when any of these poles shall chance to be rotten, another may easily be supplied, reserving always provision of them in your house.  
The fifth is, to take quarters of wood, a little bigger than your poles, and to accommodate them to your Iron hooks, or horses bones (as we have said above) and bind them with copper or brass wire which will continue a very long time.  
As they are frequently in France, with a kind of rough-cast if the wall be built of unhewen Stone. The sixth and last fashion, to ply or palisade your trees (and which is the handsomest and most ageeable, but cannot easily be made, save where the walls are plastred over) is to take shreads of Leather, or Lists, of Cloth with which you shall stay the tender branches, fixing the list of the cloth to the wall with a nail, and so the boughs will take their ply as they grow bigger, without either casting forwards, or loosening the nails, which will rust within the wall.  
These three last manners of Espaliers are in greatest practice, to defend the trees from snails, Earwigs, Stotes, & other noxious infects which creep into the withy twigs, and betwixt the rinds of round poles, which are not quarter wood.  
Be careful not to plant any Tree in the coins or Angles of your Walls; since they can there come but to half their nourishment; and besides in so doing it will mar the figure of your Garden, the Tree shooting forth all his branches forward, to come at the air.  
Pole-Hedges. The Counter Espalier is a hedge which forms all the walks and Allies of the Garden, it is planted in the same manner as the former, excepting only that the trench shall be at the least four foot broad, causing the moulds to be cast, the good upon one side, and the worse upon the other, that so you may fling the best into the bottom of your trench, and the rest upon it.  
Then you shall plant your trees in lines very even, perpendicular and not inclining as in wall-fruit.  
The wood which supports these trees must of necessity be fixed in the Earth, and bound athwart with poles: all the curiosity which can be expressed in this manner of hedge, is to make it with quarter wood and bind them with Iron or brass wire.  
There are some, to spare the charge of maintaining these palisads, satisfy themselves with b●nding and joining the trees together when they are strong enough, but then they ought to be planted nine foot asunder; and the mischief is, that they are extremely subject to be shaken by high winds.  
Shrubs. 〈…〉 Kitchin-garden by the path sides; which one may cut in what figure he please, round, square, flat at top, or let grow in the shape of a Cypress; in clipping whereof men are rather satisfied with their form, than their fruit, which the walls and Contr' Espaliers abundantly afford.  
You shall therefore plant them in the most commodious places of your borders, and at equal distances one from another, observing what I have already taught concerning planting.  
The description which I have given you of planting your trees, will exempt you of the expense of trenching your whole Garden; the Allies and walks not so much needing it, for before the trees shall come to shoot their roots as far as the walks, they will have sufficient strength to pierce them and search out the best ground. Howbeit you shall not leave your Allies neglected, but shall cause them to be diligently weeded, and especially be careful to cleanse them of Couch or dog-grasse to the very lest string, though you dig after it a spadebit deep, continually shaking it from the earth; and if after all this you perceive any of it remaining, be sure to eradicate it how deep soever it lie, that so you may utterly exterminate a weed so extremely noxious to your Garden.   

SECTION. III.  
Of Trees, and of the choice which ought to be made of them.  
Trees their choice. IT is to no purpose to have well prepared your ground, unless you also plant it with the best and choicest fruit, which you may find in the Nurseries of such Gardiner's as have the reputation of honest and trusty men; for the greater part of those which ●ell, usually cheat those who deal with them. Therefore of such, I shall not advise you to buy any, unless you first see the fruit on them, and so you may retain them from that time, sealing them with little Labels or bonds of Parchment, with your own seal, that thereby when you take them up, you may be sure of your purchase. With those whom you may confide in, for their faithful delivery, you may be less exact; however it shall not be amiss to seal them, though it were only to give other customers notice, that you have already bargained for them.  
If you desire to mark the species, you may effect it two manner of ways; One by writing the name of the tree upon small pieces of slate, and the other, by binding to them locks of wool died with several Colours, whereof you shall make a memorandum, and this shall serve you to difcerne your trees in planting, them, that so distinguishing your summer fruit from the winter, your walls, Espaliers, Contr' Espaliers and Bushes may afford an object more agreeable, since they will never be entirely naked, but will here and there be still furnished with fruits, and also that you may the better sever them, that two of the same sort be not contiguous to one another.  
Pears. The Fruits which you shall make particular choice of, as for Pears (if you desire to make profit of them in the Market) shall be the summer and winter Bon-Chrestien, The Muscat, the great and lesser rath-ripe pear, the Portail, the summer and winter Bergamotte, St. Lezin, Amadotte, Bezidairy, Double Flower, the great Russeting of Rheims, the perfume pear, and p●ire Boeure of both sorts, the Messire john, Cir●, Cadilla●, and what ever other you find to sell dearest.  
Apples. For Apples, the Renetting of several sorts, Cour-pendu, Red pippin, Chesnut, Apis gros and petit, Pigeonnet the judea and others,  
Peaches. Apricots. As for Peaches and Apricots, they always sell well; but these two sorts of fruits, are not so proper in Espaliers, because their boughs frequently die, sometimes upon one branch sometimes on the other, and very often quite perish, which is very ill-favoured to behold, by reason of the breach which it causes in your Espaliers. Those which are chiefly in reputation are the Rath peaches or Peaches of Troy, Alberges, Pavies, Cherry-peaches, Violet de Pau, Brignons, and others.  
Cherrie● For Cherries and Bigarreaux, for as much as there are particular Orchards of them, I will discourse no further of them, then only to tell you that those which have the shortest, stalk, and least stone, resembling those of the valley of Montmorency are the most excellent.  
There are likewise Precoce and rath-ripe Cherries, which are to be planted where they may stand warm, and exposed to the southern aspect, or else set in Cases, to be removed into the stove during the winter, together with the Orange-tree: but these serve rather for Curiosity then for profit.  
Return we therefore to the election of our Trees, and let us not suffer this digression to hinder us from saying all that can be spoken upon this Argument, and in particular, concerning Pear trees which are the bearers of the most delicious and best fruit of your Garden.  
That tree which is Grafted upon a Quince is to be preferred before all other, because 'tis not only an early bearer, but produces large and lovely fruit ruddy and blushing where it regards the son, and yellow on the other part which is more shaded by its thickness.  
Those which are on the freestock are esteemed to bear better relished fruit but they are nothing so large, nor so rarely coloured, as are those which be grafted upon the quince, and that's it we principally look after for sale, other pears being always of a green and less tempting Colour: and besides, they are long in bearing, and frequently fail of blossoming, spending much in superfluous wood; if plied in form of wall-fruit, you prune them till they are shot up very tall, and past their utmost effort.  
Age. Concerning the Age you shall best choose your trees when they are about four years' growth or thereabout, as being then of a very fair size; for if they be younger, it will be a long while 'ere they will have garnished your walls; and if they be elder, they will have shot their great roots, which one shall endanger the breaking or splitting in transplanting them, to the exceeding prejudice of the Tree, which are wounds that are a long time recovering, and it must have shot a good quantity of new strings, before it will any thing prosper.  
It is the opinion of very many, that one should plant a great and full grown tree once for all, forasmuch as they are so long arriving to their perfection: 〈◊〉 I am quite of another sentiment; for I conceive that a well chosen tree, and that is of a thriving kind, of the age I have spoken, shall make a fairer root than one that is elder, and which can send out but very small twigs, though in greater quantity.  
Shape. As to the shape and form of the trees, be careful that they be clean from moss, not stubbed, sightly and thriving; the body clean and large, that the Escutcheon or ●left be well recovered at the stock, and that the tree be plentifully furnished beneath, handsomely spread and agreeable at the wall.  
Taking up. I would have you present your self at the taking up of your trees that they break off as few of the string roots as is possible, nor split or cut any of the greater roots.  
Transporting and transplanting. Choose a fair day, about St. Martin's, for as soon as ever you shall perceive the leaf to fall you may securelty ●ake up your trees, and then transport them as gently as may be, either on the backs of men or beasts, and plant them again with all expedition, lest otherwise they languish, and the hairy-roots grow dry: but as you plant, remember to cut off the small points of the roots, to quicken them, and take away that which may be withered.  
But you must not prune them till the season, for the reasons, which I shall hereafter prescribe.  
From Peartrees grafted upon the freestock you should cut off the down right root, that so the other roots may fortify and extend themselves all about to suck the best mould.  
All sorts of other trees may be drawn, transplanted, and cultivated in the same manner, without any difference or distinction.  
Pruning. Touching the pruning of Trees, the just season for those which are old planted, is in the decrease of the Moon in january, at which time Grafts for the cleft, and crown are to be gathered and provided: and for such as are newly planted, they must not be disbranched till the sap begins to rise, that the wound may the sooner be cured, for if you cut them in winter, the wood will be dried by the frost in place of the scar and make a stubb of dead wood to the very bud, which should else shoot near to the cut.  
I could scarcely resolve with myself how to teach this art of pruning: since it would merit an express Discourse to instruct you perfectly: but having in my Preface resolved to conceal nothing from you as a Secret, I had rather hazard the censure of captious persons, then hide the art from you, how you may attain the most excellent and fairest Fruit: in description whereof I shall nevertheless be as succinct and brief as I can; teaching in a very few lines (by way of Maxims) what would employ more than two sheets, if I should give a contexture to my Period. Therefore  
You shall begin to prune, by cutting off all the shoot of August where ever you encounter it, unless the place be naked, and that you suspect the next old branch will not suffice to cover it, without cutting it off, which would exceedingly spoil and deform your tree.  
Those young branches which proceed from the old, and shoot lustily, must be stopped at the second or third knot; for they would attract all the Sap which ought to nourish the branch: and in case the Tree be plentifully garnished, you may cut them off at their first peeping; and such as you would spare are to be conducted where you would have them continue.  
Every Branch which sprouts as well before as behind the Tree must be cut off, because they deform it.  
All Buds that will be Fruit shall be spared; yet if there be any at the top of a branch which you desire should fortify and spread, cut off that branch near a Sprig-bud, rubbing off the Fruit-buds which are on the new shoot.  
Every branch which is to spread and fortify, must be pruned, be it never so little: but on the stronger you may leave more buds, then on the weak and feeble.  
Every branch forceably plied to garnish any void place, doth never bear the fruit fair: but in case it be guided thither from its prrimary shooting, it will do well enough.  
Every Bud which hath but a single leaf produces only wood: that of fruit hath many, and the more, the sooner it will bear, and the greater its fruit.  
The Fruit-bud which grows on the body of the Tree produces fairer fruit, than such as break out of the collateral twigs, and tops of branches.  
You shall rub off all twig-bu●s, which sprout before or behind your trees.  
If you desire to have your tree soon furnished on both sides, hinder it from shooting in the middle.  
The more you prune a Tree, the more it will shoot.  
You should prune but little wood from trees that are graffed on the freestock, and which do not yet produce fruit-buds: but afterward having passed their effort, they will bear but too plentifully.  
Make as few wounds in a tree as possibly you can, and rather exterminate a deformed branch, then haggle it in several places.  
Cut your branches always slanting, behind a Leaf-bud, to the end they may the sooner heal their wounds without leaving any stubs, which you shall afterward cut off to the very quick, to avoid a second scar, and a great eyesore.  
When your Trees form into crowns or bunches, the tops of your branches that have been too much pruned, or that have cast their fruit, leaving the knots of the stalks, they are to be discharged of it, to beautify the Tree.  
You shall also disburden your trees that are too fertile, commencing with the smaller, by cutting the stalks in the middle without unknotting them: the fewer the tree doth nourish, the fairer will be your fruit.  
Nailing and Pruning. The best season to bind, plash, nail and dress your trees is in the month February, for the greatest frosts being then past, one may cut off what is superfluous without difficulty, and besides, the sap not as yet risen, there will be no danger of breaking off the buds, knotted into fruit.  
But the greatest difficulty in this work, is to spread the trees handsomely like a Fan when it is displayed, that is, that as the sticks or ribs of a fan, never thwart one another, so nor should the branches of your trees.  
Spreading And this is a vulgar error amongst the greatest part of gardiner's, which proceeds from their ignorance, and that they will undertake, the ordering of trees, which is a peculiar science, not to be attained amongst the Cabbage-planters.  
Error. They do extrtamly ill, when they faggot and bundle together a great many small twigs, in one tack, which is a fault altogether unsufferable; for indeed one should never leave above the breadth of a single branch, about all the tree; In fine they are so stupid, that they pass, and repass the branches, and wind them about the poles which (in Palissade hedges) are erected for their support; or else they thrust and draw the tree behind, and the poles before, which are so gross mistakes, that they may not be passed over without due reproach. I shall counsel these men in charity, to put themselves into the service of some skilful Gardener for a year or two, where they may learn to order Trees as they ought, and profit by his instructions.  
And yet notwithstanding all this, if you spy a place about your tree which is very naked and unfurnished, you may in such a case thwart some small branch to cover that eyesore and void, but let this be rarely, and so disposed as not easily to be discovered.  
Dressing. It is requisite that you give four diggings or dress to your trees every year, and you may employ that ground by sowing it with the seeds of such herbs, as will be in season and ready to be spent at the renewing of every dressing, such as are Lettuce, Purslane, Cherile, chicory, nay even young Cabbages to transplant; in fine, what ever is not to abide long in a place; and there you may also replant, Lettnce to pome and head, Cichory to blanche it, Purslain to pickle, and for seed, and thus your labour will redouble the profit, for by this means your trees will (besides the dressing, stirring and opening of the uld) be often watered by the Gardener, whose care must be continual about these youngherbs and plants.  
The season for the first is before Winter, when you should well dung such as have need, and the digging aught to be very deep: at expiration of winter give it a second labour, mingling it with the soil which you first bestowed upon it; the other which follow need only suffice to preserve it from weeds; but never dig it in rainy or scorching weather; for the one will make mortar of the ground, and the other will chap and and parch it: If you give it a stirring when the vine begins to soften the verjuice-grape, and tinge the black clusters, you shall find your Pears in the space of a week to swell and improve exceedingly.  
But you shall by no means sow any seeds which produce any large roots, not so much for that they require a longer sojourn in the ground to arrive to their full growth, as because they will suck, emaciate, and dry much of the mould about them. For this reason likewise let the greater Cabbages, and leeks of the second year be sedulously banished.  
Old trees. It will be necessary at every three or four years' period, to cherish and warm your aged trees, and such as were old planted, and this is done by uncovering the mould within a little of the roots, and applying of excellent dung thereon. The best season for this work is at the commencement of Winter, that so the dung may be half consumed before the heat and drought of Summer invade it.   

SECTION. IV.  
Of the Seminary, and Nursery.  
Seminary. THe Seminary being the mother and the nurse for the elevation and raising of Trees, it will be highly requisite to give you perfect instructions, after what manner it is to be governed; and therefore begin we with seeds.  
All sorts of seeds affect a fresh place cleansed from bushes, trees, and roots, & would be sheltered from the darts of the Meridian sun by some high wall or other fence: and this is a convenience which you may easily find in some quarter of your Garden, where the wall is towards the south: One year will amply furnish you with all sorts of Plants, and indeed with more than you can tell how well to employ.  
Seeds. Kernels. Stones. Having therefore provided store of kernels and stones the year before, and as you eat the fruits, and the winter well spent; You shall towards the end of February, sow your kernels, etc. in lines upon beds, sow every species apart, and in like manner set the stones in even files about 4 Inches asunder. I presuppose, that the ground where you design them, hath been well dressed and prepared at the beginning of the Winter, and that it shall receive a second e'●e you begin to sow. Your kernels and stones will spring up the first year, some stronger, some more fe●ble than others, but that's nothing, they will all serve to transplant. Notwithstanding, if you did sow them in a bed or quarter behind your Pole-hedges: at the same southside, that they might be visited a little by the rising and declining of the sun) they would be better to be planted forth at two years' growth then at one, but with such as they are omit not to store your Seminary.  
Set your Peach stones at such time as the fruit is in maturity, interring them with the peach about them as they are gathered from the tree but you must not forget to mark the place with a little stick, least in dressing the seed plot, you break off their sprouts.  
Seedplot To begin therefore your seminary, having made choice of some fit place in your Garden, you shall dress, labour and dig it very well and then tread it very even all over to settle the Earth; afterwards you shall cut out small trenches about a spadebit deep, and two foot distant each from other, casting the mould on one side upon the margin of your furrow: this done, set your plants (having first a little topped them) about half a foot distant, and supporting them with your hand cover their roots with the mould which you cast out of the trench, and so tread them in to fix them, lest, being loose they vent and spend themselves. You must observe to plant every species by themselves, Pears with pears, Apples with Apples, etc. and be careful that the weeds do not suffocate the plants, and therefore they must be dressed and weeded upon all occasions.  
Cutting. But you shall not cut your plants till the sap begins to rise, and then you may nip them within half a foot of the ground: and where they shoot leave only one cutting, the remainder of the following winter, still rubbing the foremost Buds for a foot space, to secure the bark from knots, which would be a great impediment, when you are to Graft upon them.  
Cra●●ing. If in the same year that you planted you find any of them strong enough to Inoculate, & that they have plenty of sap, grafted on them without farther difficulty. My opinion is that a man cannot Inoculate either on wild or freestock too young; provided they be large enough to receive the Scutcheon; and my reason is, that the stock and the Scutcheon taking their growth proportionably the incision of the stock will the sooner be healed, and they will shoot with a great deal more vigour, than those which you shall bud upon stronger sets, which are 2 or 3 years recovering the place from whence you took the dead part, and of which at the other side of the Scutcheon, the bark of the wild stock does frequently die three or four Inches below the Scutcheon, so that it will require three or four years to heal the defect: Add to this: that the Bark of an old stock, will not unite so well with that of of the Scutcheon; but is apt to make a great wreath, subject to peel and unglue; a thing which never arrives when the Rinds are both of them young and tender.  
Some observe yet, that tall Stocks are to be graffed together, affirming that they grow equally: but choosing my Plant at half a foot, it were impossible that all should prosper, and be taken up together separated, but with difficulty, and without violating the Roots: and therefore it is better doubtless to graft young, for the causes already specified, since the stronger must needs master the weaker: and those likewise which are most vigorous will surmount the other; and a small compass will furnish you with a sufficient quantity of good trees, provided you suffer them not to grow there too long.  
Quince-stocks. You shall likewise Provide you a Seminary of Quince-stocks like to the other, and order them in the same manner.  
There are three sorts of Quinces: That which is pointed before; The Pear or Female Quince, which hath the fruit like a Callebasse; The great Portugal Quince pointed at both extremes. The first is the least, the ordinary is next, that of Portugal much more excellent, and abounding in Sap.  
The right Quinces (which is that which I name the wild-stock) are such as have their fruit resembling a Gourd or Callebasse, and not such as be great behind and pointed before.  
Peaches. For the Peaches which proceed from the stones that you set, I advise you to prepare a quarter in your garden a part, for the reasons already alleged: because that if you range them in hedges or walls some of the branches perishing every year, will prove a very great eyesore: And therefore my counsel is that in one of the quarters most distant from your house (toward the north where they will not impeach the prospect of your garden) Plant the Peach-trees which you shall take out of your Seminary, Placing them six foot from one another equidistant on every side in the quincunx, and thus they will produce you a world of fruit, by reason of their multitude.  
Dressing. You must be careful to give them four dress or diggings, prune off the dead wood, and to cut off at the second or third joint the young shoots, which growing too exuberant will draw all the sap of the tree to themselves, and starve the old branches, which in defect of nourishment will shortly perish; for observe this as a Maxim, that the sap does always apend to the most tender shoots) You may also intermix some Apricots in the same place, which are to be governed after the same manner of the Peaches.  
Nursery. You shall Plant your Nursery, in some large bed or quarter of your garden, which lies most remote from your dwelling, lest when it shall appear like a grove or Copse-wood, it hinders your prospect.  
Plot. The Plot designed, and the ground tightly piched and voided of all manner of weeds and roots, you shall mark out with a line, and make holes every way, 2 foot large and 2 deep, distant 4 foot asunder, and the ranges also as wide from each other. Then taking your grafted trees out of the Seminary, you shall transplant them into this Nursery; Nor is it material though the shoot be but of the first year they will serve well enough to replant; and in that you shall punctually observe the rules which I have prescribed in planting of Esphaliers and hedges, which is, to mingle some fine dung of the old bed with good mould, and making a little mark at the centre of the holes, there you shall place your tree, extending the roots of it on every side, and always drawing them downwards; then fill the hole up to the very Graft, and tread the mould about it to establish the tree.  
Planting. Note that the graft be almost level with the ground for the greater ornament of the Tree; since it would be a very great eyesore to see the knot or swelling where it was grafted, and especially in some whose graft is bigger than the stock which bears it, and so it makes an ill-favoured wreath at the closing which is very ugly and disagreeable.  
However you shall remember to plant somewhat higher when it has not been long since the ground was trenched, for as much as the dung underneath, when it begins to consume will make the tree to sink.  
Trees. As for trees in Hedges and counter-hedges exposed to the south, one may set them four fingers lower than the Soil, the better to refresh them; and without any peril of striking out small roots, by reason of the drought; yet in case there should sprout any, the Gardener searching with his Spade may cut them away, and give the knot a little air to stop their growth for the future.  
You shall likewise remember that (if during the extreme Heats you will benefit your Trees) you put some mungy Fearn, or half rotten Dung about all their feet; yet so as it do not touch the Stem: and thus you may spread it for a yard compass, and about four fingers thick; This will both shade the Roots, and exceedingly refresh the Mould about them, preserving the earth from gaping in extremity of weather, by which oftentimes the Tree languishes, and the small roots become dry: but if you a little stir the ground before you apply this dung, you will render a double advantage to your trees, for the earth will by this means maintain itself supple, and put forth no weeds through the dung.  
It will be requisite to have a Nursery for three main considerations. The first is, that you may always have provision of trees, fit to supply the places of such as accidentally die, or languishing do not thrive. The second is, to dis-incumber your Seminary which will otherwise be too full and thick of young trees. And thirdly that you may spare some for the market, to recompense the expense of your first Plantation; and besides, they may yield you some fruit where they stand, which will extremely please you; add to this, that a tree which has been frequently transplanted, becomes a great deal more generous and kind then if it had been immediately drawn from the seminary only, and Planted in his station to continue.  
Disbranching. It is also convenient to have a Nursery for those trees which are grafted upon the 
* Such as are produced of Kernels.  freestock (as Pears, Apples, and others) which you design for trees of six foot stem, you cut off the top, or master root, and as the tree grows, to prune those branches near the trunk, which suck too much of the moisture, or fork and deforms the tree; but spare the smaller ones, that the stem may fortify by stopping the sap in its course. There are very many which extremely mistake themselves in this particular taking off all the branches upon the body of the tree to the place where they would have it head and so are constrained to set a prop or a stake to redress and secure it from the violence of impetuous winds, which bends and wrists the trunk, by reason of its weighty head which renders its top heavy, and hinders the body of the tree of its growth because the sap speedily Passing upwards to the new shoots makes no halt by the way, as it would do if some of the young branches were left.  
Nipping. There is a season when to nip the bud and stop the trees whilst the sap is up: and the buds which may in this case be taken away, are such as most deform the tree; but you must ever spare those which will be fruit.  
And to distinguish them one from the other, such as have but one leaf apendant produce wood only, whereas those which are fruitful are plentifully furnished with leaves.  
Pruning. You may also prune off those young shoots which are too exuberant, and that may draw too much sap from the tree to the prejudice of the rest of the branches: where therefore you observe this, you shall stop them at the third or fourth knot, and after it hath put forth its Sap.  
They use also to prune in Augustspring, as well to impeach its unhandsome spreading, as that it may ripen before Winter and not starve the branches below, which must of necessity be cut off in February.  
If you desire to make a plantation of great trees in an Orchard by themselves, you must of necessity Graft them upon Freestocks, and not upon the quince, that is to say, Pears, and the Apples upon the Apples of Paradise, 
A wild appl● produced of kernels, on which they graft the Dwarf  for otherwise they will never become of any stature, but will be low and shrubby.  
Distance. You may Plant your Apple trees 30 foot distant, and your Pears, Plum-trees and other fruits 24: Form. and be careful that you plant them in the quincunx, that is, in lines which mutually cut at right angles.  
In such a plot of ground you may safely sow some seeds, and pulse, which will occasion you to open and stir the ground; for I advise you above all things not to permit any wild herbs or weeds in your Orchard, rather restrain yourself to a smaller circuit of ground, which you may manage well, then to undertake a larger, and neglect it for want of dressing. Great Orchards are admired, but the smaller better cultivated, and you shall receive more profit from a small spot well husbanded then from a large plantation which is neglected.   

SECTION. V.  
Concerning Graffs, and the best directions how to choose them.  
Graffing. THere is a great deal of difficulty in the well choosing of Grafts; for upon that does depend their early bearing, there being some which produce no fruit in ten or twelve years.  
The best Grafts are those which grow upon the strongest and master branch of a tree, which is wont to be a good bearer and such a one as does promise a plentiful burden that year, and is thick of buds; for hence it is that your young grafted trees, have fruit from the second or third year, and sometimes from the very first.  
Whereas on the contrary, if you take a graft from a young tree which has not as yet borne fruit, that which you shall propagate from such a tree will not bear a long time after.  
inoculating. The graft or bud for the Scutcheon, aught to be gathered in the month of August, at the decrease, and immediately grafted or for a more certain rule, without such notice of the Moon, observe when your wild-stock, and Free are in the Prime of their sap: for the Escutcheon is always fit enough, but the wild-stock does frequently fail of being disposed to receive it, for want of sap: as it commonly happens in an extreme dry Summer where they shoot not at all, or very little in the Agust-spring: And therefore if you have many trees to graft, lose no time, and be sure to begin early.  
Season. You shall know whether your wilde-stock be in the vigour of his Sap by two indications. The one is, by making incision, and lancing the bark with a Penknife, and lifting it up; if it quit the wood, there is Sap sufficient; but if it will not move readily, you must attend, till it ascend; for it will else be but labour in vain, and prejudice your Tree. The other is, when at the extremities of the branches of the wild stock, you see the leaves of the new Sap appear white and pallid, it is a Symptom that the tree is in case, and fit to graft.  
Choice. A Graft for the Scutcheon shall be chosen from a Shoot or Syen of that year, mature and very fair; for there are many which are thin and meager at the points, and upon such you shall hardly find one or two buds that are good: gather it near to the Shoot of the precedent year, cutting the upmost point in case you may not take off the Scutcheons, and cut away also all the leaves to a Moiety of the stalk.  
And the reason why I oblige you to cut off the top of the Graft, and its leaves so far, is, because if you spare them they will wither, and so dry all the graft, that it will not be possible to separate the Escutcheon from the wood, and besides all the leaves are worth nothing.  
Time. If you defer your graffing till the morrow, or some days after they are gathered, you shall dip their ends in some vessel, the water not above two inches deep, till such time as you intent to graft them, but if you will graft them on the same day, you need only keep them fresh in some Cabbage leaves, or moist linen clout.  
Cleft. Graffs for the Cleft are to be gathered in the wain of the Moon in january, to the increase of it in February, and so continuing from Moon to Moon, till you perceive that the Sap being too strong in the Stock, separates the Rind from the wood.  
Choice. To choose a Graff well for the Cleft, my opinion is, that it should have of the wood of the 
* Viz. that which rises in Spring & August.  two saps of the precedent year, whereof the oldest will best accommodate with the Cleft, and the other will shoot and bud best; though I do not utterly reprove the graffing of the wood though but of one year; but the tree will not bear fruit so soon.  
You shall gather your Graffs at the top of the fairest branches, as I have formerly said, and you shall leave three fingers length of the first Sap, or old wood, that you may cut your graft with the greater case.  
To conserve them till you graft, it is sufficient to cover them by bundles half ways in the earth, their kinds distinguished, lest if you should mingle them, and should graft of two sorts upon the same same tree, you be constrained to cut one of them off; since two several kinds of fruit do never agree well upon the same Stem, the one hindering the other from arriving to its perfection by robbing it of the Sap.   

SECT. VI  
The manner how to graft.  
I Have never observed above four several necessary manners of graffing, and from which you may hope for an assured success, the rest being more curious than profitable, seeing that by these four a man may graft all sorts of Trees and Shrubs whatsoever. Of these  
The Escutcheon holds the preeminency; for as much as it is applicable upon all sorts of trees, the most easy to do, and the soon that bears fruit.  
The Cleft or Stock follows, and that as practicable upon the greater trees, and also upon the smaller, even to those of one inch diameter.  
The Crown is not much in use, save upon trees of the largest size.  
The Approach is not ordinarily practised, except it be upon Orange, Limmon trees, and other rare Plants, such as we conserve in Cases, and are therefore joined with the more facility.  
Inoculating To begin therefore with the Escutcheon. Your Stock being stripped of all its small twigs the height of half a foot, or a little more, from the season that they use to cut trees; or else deferred till graffing time, you shall choose out the fairest part of the Bark of your Stock, and if it be possible upon the quarter which is exposed to the most impetuous winds; because they come sometimes so furiously, that they loosen the Shield, being yet tender, and charged with branches and leaves; which accident does not happen so frequently, when they are thus placed, as when they are graffed on the other side, though you should set supporters to uphold them.  
Cut your Escutcheon long enough, an inch or thereabout, and reasonably large, that it may derive sufficient nourishment; be sure to take it off dextrously, and look within it, whether the sprout of the Bud hold to it; for if that stay behind with the wood from whence you took it, it is worth nothing: You shall hold this in your mouth by the end of the stalk of the leaf, which I ordered you to reserve expressly when you gather your graffs; then make incision upon your stock, and gently loosen the bark with the pointed handle of your Knife, without rubbing it against the wood, for fear of scraping the Sap which is underneath; this done, place your Scutcheon between the wood and the bark, thrusting it down till the head of the Shield join with the incision at the top of your Stock, and that it be even and flat upon the wood, which being performed, you shall bind it about with Hemp, beginning to tie it very close above, near the Bud, then turning it below, leave the Eye but a very small compass, and thus you shall finish your binding with a knot.  
Season. Be careful when you graft, that it be neither during the excessive heat of the Sun, nor in a rainy season, for the Scutcheon will not endure to be wet, and it will be in great danger of not taking, if it rain the first four or five days immediately after your inoculating.  
There are some who take off part of the wood with the Shield, which they do with one cut of the knife, which manner of inoculating I do not disapprove: I have succeeded well in it myself, and besides in so doing, there is no danger of impeaching the Bud of your Scutcheon, that is, of leaving the Eye of the Bud behind you. Those which have many trees to inoculate use this way because it is more prompt & expedite.  
Three weeks after you have inoculated (or thereabout) you may cut the knot of the Ligature, that the sap may enjoy the freer intercourse. Winter past, and the Bud beginning to open, cut your Stock three or four fingers above the Scutcheon, and cut likewise the binding behind it, and the Rind itself to the very wood; this must be done at one gash of the knife, from the bottom to the top.  
Howbeit you shall not take off the Tow from about the Scutcheon, but let it fall of itself; for there is danger in quitting it, lest you press the Bud, which is then extremely tender: You shall not cut off the Stub which remains beneath the Scutcheon, till you prune the Tree, which must be in February the year following.  
After your Scutcheon has put forth its first Sap, you may prune it at top, that it may shoot out branches about the Eyes below, otherwise it will mount without forking, and so your Dwarf will have no grace or beauty.  
The just season to stop them is in the decrease of the Moon, when the Sap of August shoots out; you may then also, if you please, ●ut the wood of your Stock which you left above the Scutcheon, and cover the wound with good earth thinly mixed with Hay, and making it a little hood, or more curiously, with a plaster of wax, mixed with a composition which I shall describe hereafter.  
If you will attend the issue of the Winter following to cut the heel of your tree, you need not be obliged to wrap it up, and secure it thus, because the ascending sap will immediately cure it.  
I have observed, that a Scutcheon set on a wild or freestock of about an inch Diameter or more, does not prosper and shoot so well, as upon one that is younger, and besides, it is more subject to unglue. Some there be that inoculate from the very first rise of the Sap, but they do not much advance; for the Scutcheon not shooting till August, the sprout is nothing so fair as that of the close Eye or shut Bud, since it is frequently found that the wood of the new shoot never ripens, and the Winter approaching kills it; and therefore I counsel you not to inoculate so early, unless the necessity be very urgent.  
In the Cleft. In the Cleft or Stock, all sorts of trees from one inch bigness to the greatest that are may be graffed: The most proper Season for it, is from the beginning of the new moon in February, till the Sap (becoming too lustily in the tree) separates the wood from the bark; for than you shall leave off graffing.  
When you graft in the Cleft, if it be to make Dwarves, you must first saw your Stock four inches, or thereabout, above ground, and then with your Pruning-Knife pair off the surface of the wood, where the saw has passed, about the thickness of a sixpence, because the Track of the Saw leaving it rugged will hinder the Sap from healing the grated wood; nor can the graft join to its trunk unless the rind be refreshed, and cut to the quick with the knife. When this is done, you shall cleave the Stock where the Bark appears most even, and least knotty; and observe, that you never place your knife exactly in the middle of the tree, where the Pith and Heart of the wood is, but a little towards the side. Then cut and fit your Graff, sharpening all the old wood, as far as the new in fashion of a wedg, equal on both sides, yet leaving the two rinds fast to the wood in the narrowest parts; for if once they be separated, your Graff is good for nothing: Then top your Graft three or four inches, more or less, according as it will bear it; for as much as upon a small stock one would not leave them so long, as upon a great tree. Thus prepared, you shall open the Stock with a small wedge made of some tough wood, such as Box, Ebony or the like, striking it in gently, and then lodge your graft at the edge of your Stock, sinking it down as far as the new wood, and place it so that the parts through which the Sap has intercourse (which is mutual 'twixt the wood and the bark) do exactly correspond.  
Having thus lodged your Graft, you may place a second on the other end of the Cleft, always remembering to put two Graffs into every Cleft, provided that you can so place them that they be not contiguous; for by this means they will sooner recover their stock, then if there were but one, because the Sap ascends equally on both sides, and preserves the back side of the rind from withering, as we have already said: After this you shall cover what remains of the Cleft, 'twixt the two Graffs, with a little of the thinnest and most tender Bark, joining it accurately to keep the water from entering in: than you shall make the Hood with fine earth and Hay; some cover the hood with mosses, and with two short Willow-rinds laid ' thwart one another, bind them on with an Ozyer to the foot of the Stock, to maintain them the more fresh, and preserve them from the water.  
When you graft upon great Trees, you shall choose the smoothest and most even branches to place your Graffs upon, if they be very big you may lodge four upon it, making the Cleft in form of a Cross, yet without touching the Pith of the tree, the remanent branches which you do not graft, must be sawed off within half an inch of the Stem, and then paring away the wood which the saw may have grated, you shall swath it about with Loam till the Bark have healed the wound, to guard it from the scorching of the Summer, and the frost of the winter, which would exceedingly prejudice it, by penetrating to the very heart of the tree. It will be good to apply some stays to the branches which are graffed, to strengthen the young shoots, and secure them from the winds, till the second year be past, and that they are well established; and if you find any that grows disorderly, you shall cut it off, as also if they come too thick, and choke one another, by this means giving free Air to the tree.  
Upon your small wild stocks, which will support but a single graft, you shall cut the hinder part where you might place a second, to the very heart of the stock, slanting it in, like that part of a Pipe which is applied to the nether Lip, this will greatly contribute to its recovery. And  
When you graft small stocks, which have not strength enough to fasten their graffs, you shall assist them, by binding them about with some tender twig of an Osier.  
Now, albeit I did oblige you to choose a graft with the old wood, yet I would not have you to cast away that which is but of one Sap, nor the cuttings of those where you took the grasses of the two Saps, because they are excellent, however they produce their fruit something later than the other, nor do they bear so great a burden; and therefore unless it be in case of necessity, I would only use those which are of two saps.  
Crown. Graffing in the Crown or 'twixt the wood and the bark is never practised, save upon old trees, whose rind being very tough can endure the wedg without splitting, and which will not suffer the cleaving (by reason of the thickness of the bark) but with much difficulty, and besides it is a great hazard if it takes.  
To graft in the Crown, having sawed your tree at the place where you would graft it, and pared away the raggedness which the saw hath left to the quick, especially about the Bark, you shall cut and sharpen your graft but on one side, then str●ke in a small Iron wedge 'twixt the wood and the rind, and so taking out the wedge, set in your graft, rind to rind, and wood to wood, to the full depth that it is sharpened.  
Thus you may place as many as you please about the Trunk, provided that their number do not split off, and cleave the Bark.  
Approach. To graft by Approach it is very easy; For you have only to take two young branches, one of the free and graffed, and the other of the wild stock, without separating them from their Stems, and then paring away about four finger's breadth of bark, and wood till you approach near to the pith, and so marry them together as dextrously as 'tis possible, tying them about with raw Hemp, from one end of the Cut to the other, and so let them remain for two Saps: then after a month or six weeks are expired, if you perceive the wood to swell, and that the Ligature incommode them, you shall cut it upon the wild stock, with one gash of your Knife, as we taught you before on the Scutcheon.  
At the beginning of Winter, you may cut and sever the natural tree from its stock, and cut away the head of the stock within two inches of its graft, and thus these two twigs concorporating, it will receive t●e nourishment of the wild stock. Remember to cover the wounds of them both, with the Wax, which I shall hereafter instruct you how to make.  
You shall not cast those twigs into the fire which you cut off from the Quince, which you graffed in the Cleft, for you may reserve the cuttings, which will strike root the first year, and must be set in your Nursery to be graffed when they are ready, and what you prune off from the Quince trees during Winter, will be very good for this purpose.  
The Prune of the Pomme de Parradis, which they call the Scion, will also take in Layers.  
Cuttings Layers. All sorts of Cuttings are to be planted in a small Trench, such as we described in the Nursery, which may be about the breadth and depth of a s●ade-bit: but first strip off the leaves, and cut them slan●ing at the great ends, in form of a Does foot, and so you shall lay them at the bottom of your Trench very thick, one by an●ther, because there will many of them die; and let their small ends appear above ground, and so cover them, and fill the Trench, pressing it well down upon the Cutting, that the Air do not enter, and when you dress them, cleanse them only with a haw, that the weeds do not choke them, and it will suffice.  
Then cut off the tops of your Layers all of an evenness, within three fingers of the ground, and that especially when you perceive the Sap to be rising, which you shall find by the verdure of their Buds, which never shoot when the Scion begins to take root.  
You may not cut, or stop the first years Shoots, fearing lest they put forth their Buds beneath at August, which will hardly come to maturity: it were better stay till February, and then leave them as the tree will best support it, and in such places as you des●re they should shoot, rubbing off such as pe●p before, behind, and in other unprofitable places. This opposes the opinion of many, but experience makes me persist in my own.   

SECT. VII.  
Of Trees and Shrubs in particular, how they are to be governed, and their Maladies cured.  
Trees. I Thought it requisite to make a Chapter apart, to comprehend in particular, all that we have spoken in general, in the several precedent Sections, and that for the avoiding of confusion, and to the end, that in case there were any thing which might seem difficult to you (though I have much endeavoured to render myself intelligible in the simplest terms, and the most vulgar that our Language will bear, that I might be understood of all, and profit them by it) I might more perspicuously explain it, in particularising all sorts of fruits, which we in France do usually furnish our Gardens withal.  
Pears. I will therefore set Pears in the first place, as those which of all others bear the most rarity of fruit, and are the principal ornament of the walls, Contr' Espaliers and Bushes of a Garden, from whence we may gather fruit in their perfection during six months of the year at least, and for that it is a fruit which one may in great part keep till the new ones supply us again, and that without shriveling, or any impeachment of their taste, a thing which we find not in any other fruit besides.  
Graffing. All sorts of Pear-trees may be graffed after any of the four precedent manners, but they succeed incomparably upon the Quince, and in the Scutcheon produce their fruit much earlier, and that fairer, ruddy, and of greater size, then when they are graffed upon the Freestock, excepting only the Portail, which often misses taking upon the Quince, and will therefore hit better upon the Freestock: The Summer bon Chrestien and the Vallee are very fit for it, and if they have been formerly graffed upon the Quince, it is the better, for it will render the fruit a great deal more beautiful, and fair.  
And in case that any graffed either in Scutcheon or the Cle●t upon the Quince fortune not to take, and that you conceive it to be dead, let the stock shoot, it will produce wood sufficient, which you may clear of all the small branches, and at the near expiration of the winter following, you shall earth it up at the ends in form of a great Molehill, leaving out the extremes of the branches, without cutting them off, and they will not fail to strike root the same year, provided that you remember to water them sometimes during the great heats, and that you do not suffer the rain to demolish the earth about them, which must be continnally maintained in its first height; and if in the same year, you find any of those branches strong enough inoculate them without any more ado, unless you will choose rather to stay till the next year and graft them all together; every one of these will be as so many trees to your hand, which you may plant in your Nursery, the year after they have made their first shoot, accurately separating them from the Mother-stock, and cutting the ends of their great root aslant.  
Remember to graft them conveniently high, that your tree may have sufficient Stem, and all that part which is in earth will abound with small root●▪  
If you have any old Quince-trees, and would raise young Suckers from them, lay some of the branches in the ground, and in one year they will be rooted: but in case you desire to produce a Tree at once; you may effect it as I have already described it. The season of Laying these branches is all the Winter long, till the Buds begin to spring, provided that the earth be qualified.  
Apples. Appletrees challenge the second place, and may be likewise graffed after all the four ways, they succeed very well upon the Scion of the Pear-main grafted on Layers of the tree (called by the French 
* A kind of Coddling.  Pommier de Parradis) and in particular the Queen-apple do●s wonderfully prosper upon it, and is more red within, than those which are graffed upon the Freestock.  
There are some curious persons who graft the Queen-apple upon the white Mulberry, and hold that the fruit does surpass in redness, all others that are graffed, either on the Freestock, or the forementioned Scion: but my opinion is, that it is the age of the trees only which imparts that colour to them.  
Plum. Plum-trees are ordinarily graffed in Scutcheon and in the Cleft, if you have any stocks raised from the stones, or the Suckers which spring from the Damask-Plum, they will yield very good trees, and bring abundance of fruit, there being no Plum whatsoever which bears so full as the Damask.  
The Wilde-Plum (which you shall know by the redness of the ends of the branches) is not fit at all to graft upon, for it rejects many kinds of fruits, and is besides very uncertain to take.  
Your old Plum-trees, whose small twigs grow in bundles and puckles, may be recovered and made young again, by taking off the head of them at the end of winter; they will shoot anew, and bear fruit the very year following: but you must cloame the heads of the wounded branches, and refresh the tract of the Saw, as I directed you before.  
Apricots. Apricots are grafted either in the Stock, or in the Bud, upon plants springing of their own stones, and also upon a Plum-stock, but the white Pear-plum, and Moyend' oeuf make a very fair Abricot, and much larger than upon any other sort of Plum.  
Peaches. Peaches, Perses and 
* Sort that cleaves to the Stone.  Pavies, are ordinarily graffed by inoculation upon a Peach, Plum, or Almond tree, but I prefer the Plum, because they are of longer continuance, and do better resist the Frosts, and the pernicious winds, which shrivel and rust the leaves, and the young shoots. The white Plum, or Poictrons are not at all proper, but the black Damask, 
* A great white plum, as big as an Abricot.  Cyprus, and 
* A black unpleasant fruit.  St. julian. Such as are budded on the Peach do not last, upon the Almond somewhat longer, and produce more abundance and much better fruit: but there is so much difficulty of governing the Almond-tree in our Climate, that one had better content himself with Plum-stocks; for the Almond is very impatient of Transplantation, and in great danger of perishing, if you remove him not the first, or second year at farthest, after he has made the first shoot: and besides, you must be sure to place him where he is ever to abide, and bud him there, without thought of stirring him afterwards. The Almond-tree is of all others the most obnoxious to Frosts, by reason of his early blossoming; all the good in him is this, that he never sends forth any Suckers from the Root.  
Cherries. Cherries, Bigarreaux and the like fruits are better propagated on the small wild, or bitter Cherry, then upon the Suckers which spring from the roots of other Cherrie-trees of a better kind, though tolerable in defect of the other: and the right season to bud them, is, when the fruit begins to blush, and take colour.  
They do very well graffed in the stock, and shoot wonderfully, but the Bud is much to be preserved.  
They have of late found out an expedient to prevent the Gum which incommodes the grasses and Clefts of Cherrytrees, to which they are wonderfully obnoxious: and that is, by sawing and paring the part smooth with a knife, afterwards to make an incision of two inches length into the first and utmost rind, drawing it aside, and separating it from the green some two inches long, without peeling it quite off: Then in the middle of this length to make the Cleft lodge the graft, and cover it with this skin, by replacing it; and then swath it, as the custom is.  
For Stones and Almonds of all sorts, which you would sow to produce natural fruit or graft upon: prepare a Bed of Earth before Winter, trench it, and tread it, then rake and water it: which done, range all your Stones on it at three inches distance, (every species apart) then lay as many boards upon them as will cover the Bed, and upon the boards a good quantity of weighty stones; cover all this with new dung to prevent the Frost: the month of May following take up your boards: you shall find your stones sprouted; which you shall immediately take up without impeaching the Sprouts, and so place them where you would have them remain: This is a particular which will extremely satisfy you, as in time you will find.  
Figs. Figs of all sorts are propagated by Layers, and suddenly bear fruit, which you may facilitate by passing a fair branch through some Bushel or Bushels, and environing it with rich earth, that it may take root. But be careful that you fasten the Vessel very well to the side of the tree, lest the winds and its own weight turn it over, and ruin your Labour. You may also take the Suckers which spring out of the earth from the foot of a Figtree ready rooted, or the Cuttings, which you may cultivate and govern after the manner of Quinces; but yet without cutting off the tops of the branches which you so lay, for this wood having a large pith, is very subject to the injury of wind and water: and the sooner you plant these trees in the places designed for their abode, the better they will take. Winter past, gather off all the unripe Figs before they fall off themselves, for if they stay till they spontaneously quit the trees, they will have exhausted them very much of their Sap, to the great prejudice of the Figs which are to succeed them, and which by neglecting this do oftentimes never arrive to their maturity. And forasmuch as the Figtree does very much suffer by reason of the Frosts, you are obliged to plant them in a warm place, or in Cases, which you may remove and house with your Orange-trees in the Winter.  
Mulberries take likewise of Cuttings and Layers, pricking them in a moist place, half a ●oot profound, not permitting above three fingers of the tops to peer out of the earth, and treading it down with your feet as you should do Quinces.  
If you would sow Mulberries, to produce a great quantity in a little ground; take an old Well-rope, which is made of a certain wood called the Bline, easy to be twisted, and rub it with such ripe Mulberries as you find fallen off the tree; bury this Cord four fingers deep in a trench, cover it with earth: and the next year you shall have Trees enough both to store your self and your Friends.  
Oranges. Limmons. Concerning Orange and Limmon-Trees, I shall only deliver the principal and most ordinary government of them, which is to sow their Repins in Boxes, and when they are two years old, transplant them in Cases, every one in a Case by itself, filled with rich Melon- bed-mould, mingled with Loam refined and matured by one winter, and when they can well support it, you may either inoculate, or graft them by Approach in the Spring of the year: Above all things, be diligent to secure them from cold, and commit them early to their shelter, where, that they may entirely be preserved from the Frost, you may give them a gentle Stove, and attemper the Air with a fire of Charcoal, during the extreme rigour of the Winter, in case you suspect the Frost has at all invaded them.  
But so soon as the Spring appears, and that the Frosts are entirely passed, you may acquaint them with the Air by degrees, beginning first to open the doors of the Conservatory in the heat of the day, and shutting them again at night, and so by little and little you may set open the windows, and shut them again in the evening, till all danger is past, and then you may bring them forth, and expose them boldly to the Air during all the Summer following.  
As these trees grow big, you may change and enlarge their Cases, but be sure to take them out earth and all, razing the stringy and fiberous roots, a little with a knife, before you replace them, and supplying what their new Cases may want, with the fore-described mould: Some when they alter their Cases denude them of all the earth, conceiving it exhausted and insipid: but it is to the extreme prejudice of the Tree, and does set it so far back, that a year or two will hardly recover it.  
You may gather the Flowers every day, to prevent their knotting into fruit, or (being too luxurious) their languishing; it will suffice therefore that you spare some of the fairest, and best placed for fruit, and of them as many as you conceive the tree can well nourish.  
The Spiders do extremely affect to spread their Toils among the branches and leaves of this Tree, because the flies so much frequent their flowers and leaves, which attract them with their redolency and juice, and to remedy this, use such a Brush as is made to cleanse pictures withal, from the dust, but treat them tenderly.  
Shrubs. Arbusts and all Shrubs, such as Pome-granads, jassemins, Musk-Roses, etc. Woodbines, Myrtles, ordinary Laurel, Cherry-Laurel, R●se-Laurel, Althea-frutex, Lilac, Guelder-Roses, Phylirea, Alaternus, and divers more superfluous to repeat here; Of these we will only take the principal, and discourse a little upon them.  
Granads. Granads, as well those which bear the double Flower, are propagated from Layers, letting them pass the year in the ground, they will be sufficiently rooted before winter, to be transplanted: You may likewise govern their branches and cuttings as you did the Quince. They may be either budded, or graffed in the Cleft in the ordinary season: And some plant them in Cases to preserve them in the house during Winter; but they will endure without doors, planted against some well-sheltered Wall, where they will prosper very well. The Granads which they call de Raguignan, are most beautiful, very glowing, and of a rich taste, although something less.  
If your Pome-granads run out too exuberant, and neither knot, nor preserve their fruit; it proceeds from the drought of the ground; and therefore being in flower, you should water them, and their flowers will stop and knit.  
Jass●mine Common white jassemine, and yellow, are produced also by Layers, out of which you may draw a rooted plant whereon to graft the Spanish jassemine, which you must preserve in Cases, and house with your Oranges in Winter; you shall cut it every year, (at the end of Winter) near the graft, leaving but one Bud at a twig to produce young shoots for flowers: You may form the Plant like the head of an Osier, leaving it only a foot high at the Stem: You may graft it in Cleft, upon a shoot of the precedent year, placing the Graft in the middle of the Pith of its stock, and inveloping it with your Cerecloth, head it as you do other grasses: If you will plant it abroad against some wall exposed to the East or South, you may govern it as you do the Vine, making small heads at each knot: but you must loosen it from the wall in Winter, and gently bend it towards the ground, the more commodiously to cover it with Mats and long dung till the Spring, at what time you may redress, prune and apply it to the wall as before.  
Musk-rose The Musk-Rose may be budded upon a Sweet-brier, and are easily ordered; for you need only discharge them of the dead wood, and stop the young shoots which are too exuberant, and draw away all the sap to the prejudice of the rest of the branches: You may also lay them in the ground, and separate other trees from them; or the Cuttings ordered like Quinces, and interred in the shade.  
Myrtles. Laurels. Myrtles, Cherry-Laurels and Rose-Laurels, are produced of Layers. It is sufficient that it be done a little before August; but you should cleave or wound that part of the wood a little which you plunge into the ground, at some joint, cleaving it half the thickness of the branch, and three or four fingers in length, according as it is in strength, and in six weeks they will shoot a sufficient root to be severed and transplanted; Moreover they produce Suckers ready rooted, which you may separate from their Mothers.  
You may form Cherry-Laurels in Palisades and Hedges, which support the winter abroad very well.  
Common Laurels are raised of Seed in Cases like Oranges, and may be transplanted the first or second year, and being planted under the drip (not the gutter) of a house shaded from the Sun, they will flourish wonderfully: some cover them with Fearn or Straw, to secure them from the frosts, to which they are obnoxious.  
Phyliriea. Alaternus Phylirea and Alaternus are sown likewise in Cases before Winter, and set in the house, where the Berries will come up and sprout a great deal better, then if they had been sown at the Spring.  
By that time they are half a foot high you may transplant them, and (if you please) clip and fashion them like Box without any danger, shaping them into close walks and Cabinets, upon frames of wood, as you will.  
Althea-frutex. Arbour. Judae. Lilac. Concerning the rest, as Althea-frutex, Arbour judae, Lilac, etc. being Plants which are easily propagated, I shall pass them over for fear of swelling this Book, and importuning the Reader. Let us conclude rather with the Diseases to which our Trees and Plants are obnoxious, and speak of those Animals which incommode them.  
Diseases. Of all the Maladies to which Trees are subject, the Canker is the most perilous, for it chaps and mortifies that part of the Bark where it breeds, daily augmenting, unless prevented by a prompt and speedy Remedy, so soon as it is perceived; so that if you neglect to visit your trees, you shall often find them all dead upon one side: to remedy which you must lance and open the living Bark round to the very quick as deep as the wood, and so the Canker will fall of itself: or else you must scrape it well, that the bark may the more easily recover, the sore; and secure it from the Hail, by covering it with a little Cowdung, and swathing it with a clout of some Moss.  
Moss. The Moss which invades trees proceeds commonly from some occult and hidden cause, which is, when the roots encounter with a gravelly, sandy or other bad mould, so that they cannot penetrate to search for refreshment; this burns up the Tree, and spoils it of his leaves, during the great hea●s. For this, there is only this expedient. If it be a small tree, you must take it up with as much mould about its root as possible, and make a Pit for it four foot square, filling the bottom with Mellon-bed-dung, and the rest with rich earth, and then replace the tree, observing what I have already said; and thus the tree may be taken up without any damage, and will take again with ease, provided that you be careful to preserve its Roots from languishing and taking Ayr. But in case the tree be old, you must bare the root before Winter, and dis-interre the greatest roots half their thickness, making a large Trench about the foot of the Tree, and so let it remain all Winter (that the earth may become mellow) till the Spring, when you must fill the apertures with well consumed dung mixed with earth, and especially about the Roots▪  
You may take off the Moss from great Trees with a Plane, lightly paring off the dry Surface of the Bark; and from smaller Trees with a blunt knife, or some proper instrument of wood. The properest season for this work is after a soaking rain, or great dew in the morning; for whilst the great heats continue, it cleaves so obstinately to the trees, that you cannot scrape it off without prejudicing the Bark, if you would utterly eradicate it: Neither ought you to neglect this cure, for the Moss undisturbed doth daily augment, and is the same inconvenience to Trees that the Itch is to Animals. If you water your Trees during the excessive heats, and cover the roots with Fern, or other mungy stuff, it will preserve them from this disease.  
Jaundice. The jaundice or Languor, which you may perceive by the leaves of Trees, proceed from some hurt, which either the Molls, or Mice, may have done to their roots; or by the stroke of some spade or peradventure by the too great abundance of Water which corrupting suffocates them. For redress hereof you must uncover the roots entirely, and visit them, to see if they have received any prejudice from any of the forementioned accidents; and in case you find any galling or hurt upon a root, you shall cut it smooth off, aslant, above, but near the place, and then strew the bottom of the hole with some Chimny-soote to make these creatures abandon their haunt filling up the rest with rich mould; and if the cause proceed from corrupted Water, you must divert it with a trench.  
Moles. To take the Moles, some place a Butter-Pot cross their passage sinking it two fingers lower than the tract, by which means they often fall in and perish. Others use a pipe of wood of about two foot long, and the bore as big as your wrist, In this trunk is a small tongue of tin or thin plate of Iron within four fingers of either end, which is fastened to the trunk with a wire a little slanting at the bottom towards the middle of the pipe; that so the Mole entering in, and thrusting the tongue can neither get out at one end or other: You must place this trunk exactly in the Moles passage: Some to make them quit an obstinate haunt make a small hoop of elder, which they six half a foot into the ground.  
But the most infallible way is, to watch them in the Morning and Evening, when they work in their Hills, and to fling them dextrously out with the spade. If you take any alive, put them in an empty butterpott, for they report, that they will invite others by their cry, who running through the same passage fall into the same pot and so are caught.  
They are destroyed likewise with Mole-graines, which is a set of sharp Iron points, skrewed upon a staff, which struck upon the hill when the mole is working, does certainly pierce him through, amaze, or kill as you shall find if you dig immediately after it.  
Mice. Field-nice are best taken by making them a small hutt of fern or straw, like the cover or hack of a Beehive, placing under it some vessel full of Water filled within 4 fingers of the brim, and cover it with some husks of Oats to hide the water which will soon tempt them to wallow in't, and ●earch for the grain, and so drown themselves. It is good also to put some Wheat-ears or of oats, which may hang near the middle of the vessel, without touching it; for the mice striving to come at the corn will fall into the water. Or you may Poison them with Arsenic or Ratts-bane the powder of it mingled with grease; but you may by this means endanger your Cats, which finding and eating the dead mice will not long survive them.  
Worms. The Worm gets sometimes between the bark and body of a tree: if you can discover whereabout they lie, you may soon draw them out without making any great incision.  
There is also another kind of small worm, which they call the Nip-bud which breeds at the very point of young shoots, and kills all their tops; but these are easily destroyed, for cutting the branch to the quick, you shall be sure to find them.  
There is a Green-worme which devours the young shoots as fast as they grow, and those are very hard to un-nestle, unless you daub them with quicklime newly quinched, which you may easily do with a small Painter's brush.  
Ants. Ants and Pismires will forsake their haunt, if you encompass the stem four fingers breadth with a circle or roll of Wool newly plucked from a Sheep's belly, or if you anoint it with tar.  
But there is an other expedient more cleanly and not so difficult, which is to make little boxes of cards or Pasteboard pierced full of holes with a bodkin, every box having a bait of the powder of Arsenic mingled with a little honey; these boxes must be hung upon the tree, and this will certainly destroy them; but you must be careful that you do not make the holes so large that a Bee may enter lest they poison themselves also.  
A Glasse-bottle with a little honey in it, or that has had any other sweet liquor in it fastened to the Tree, will attract all the Ants, which you may stop, and kill them, by washing the bottle with a little hot water; then carrying it to its place again rinced with a little sweet Syrup, you will by this means entirely destroy them.  
Snails. Shell-s●ailes you may easily gather from behind the leaves which grow nearest to the fruit which they begun to eat the night before.  
For your shall find some fruit half devoured in one night, insomuch as one would think it the work of some Stotes, Field-rats, or Nut-mouse, whereas indeed they are nothing but the snails which in great numbers devonr as much as one of those animals.  
You should never pluck off the fruit which the Snails or other Vermin have begun, for as long as they last, they will not touch any of the rest.  
The Black Snails (without shell) are easily gathered, for they cleave to the leaves, and feed upon them.  
Woodlice. Earwigs. As for Wood-lyces, Earwigs, Martinets, and the smaller infects which likewise infested Trees, you shall place Hoofs of Bullocks, Sheep or Hogs, upon short stakes fixed in the Ground, or upon the Ozyers which fasten your Palisades, and wall-fruit, and this Chase will employ two men from Morning break, who must take them gently, but speedily off, and shake them into a kettle of scalding water, which they are to carry with them; or the other may bruise such as are likely to escape with some instrument of wood.  
Cater-pillars. Caterpillars are easily gathered off during all the Winter, taking away the Packets which cleave about the Branches, and burning them; but if you neglect this, till they are disclosed, you will not be able to destroy them without much difficulty: but in case you have not prevented it, be diligent to take them whilst they are yet young, when either through the coldness of the Night, or some Humidity, they are assembled together in heaps; for otherwise; when the Sun is hot, and that it is high day, they will have overspread your Trees.  
And the destruction of these Vermin is so absolutely necessary, that you shall quit all manner work to accomplish it; for a Garden anoy'd with this plague but one year only, shall resent it more than three years after.  
And now we will shut up this Treatise with the Receipt which I promised to give you of the Composition to cover your Graffs.  
The composition to hood your Grafs. Take then half a pound of new Wax, as much Burgundy Pitch, two ounces of ordinary Turpentine, melt all these Ingredients in a new earthen Pot, glazed, sufficiently stirring it; then let it cool at least twelve hours, then break it into pieces, and hold them in warm water half an hour, where you must work it with your hands, till it become very pliable. Or you may dip any Clouts in this Composition, and afterwards cut them out into Plasters, fitted to the wounds of your Trees, which will less waste your store, and not take up so much of your Composition as if you applied it in morsels; and you may make use of this Cerecloth to cover the Clefts of your Trees, which gape between a Stock that hath two Graffs, and secure it from the rain; and you may wind it about the Hoods, before you daub them with Loam and Hay, and this will certainly preserve your graffs from all injuries of water whatsoever.  
To make fruit knot. There are some so curious, that to make their Fruit knot well, and abide upon such Trees, which spend all in Blossoms, do make holes in divers parts of the Tree with an Auger of about a finger bore, filling the hole again with a Pin of Oak, which they beat in quite cross the Tree. This they conceive does stop the fruit. You may experiment it if you please, the labour is not great, nor at all to the hazard of your Tree.  

A Catalogue of the names of Fruits known about Paris.  

Pears whose Fruit is in perfection at the end of june, and in july.  
SMall Blanket.  
Hasty Pear of several sorts.  
Musk-Pear, or Sept en gueule, etc.  
The Musky St. John.   

In july and in August.  
THe great Amyret.  
Lesser Amyre●.  
Little John Amyret.  
Good twice a year.  
Camouzines.  
Lady-dear Muscat.  
Lady-dear Green.  
Citron-Pear.  
Cocquin Rozat.  
Lady's Thigh.  
Madera-Pear.  
Desgranges' yellow.  
Two headed Pear.  
Sweet two sorts.  
Vacher Rozatte.  
Espargne.  
Fine Gold long Stalk.  
Fine Gold of Orleans.  
Fine Gold, great, round and Rosse.  
Friquet.  
Gloutes de Gap.  
Magdalene.  
Muscat long tail.  
Pearl Muscat.  
Great Musky white and yellow.  
The great Muzette.  
Small Muzette.  
Perdreau.  
The Pearl.  
Pernant Rozat.  
Province Pear.  
Pucell of Xainctonge.  
Green Royal.  
Rozat of three colours.  
Rozat red, streaked with Green.  
Rozat Royal.  
The King of the Summer.  
The Superintendent, or great green Musk.   

In August and September.  
THe Amazon.  
Amours.  
Amydon.  
Armentieres.  
Balm.  
The Father in Law.  
Fair and Good.  
Summer Bergamotte.  
Great Blanket.  
The Butter-Pear of August, long and round.  
Green Butter-Pear.  
Beweriere.  
Bezy of Mowilliers.  
Summer green Bon-Chrestien.  
The good Micet of Coyeux.  
The Ugly-good.  
The younger Brother.  
The Rosy Musk-flint.  
The Maiden's flesh.  
The Wax-Pear.  
The Citron Pear.  
The Melt in mouth.  
Rosy Daverat.  
Golden Pear.  
White Ladder Pear.  
Spicing.  
The Forest Pear.  
The Ditch Pear.  
Musky Antony's Pear.  
The Mangy Pears.  
Rosy Garbot.  
The Cake Pear.  
Giacçiole of Rome.  
Long Gillets.  
Gracçioli, or Cowcumber Pear round and red.  
The Greasy Pear.  
The Jealous Pear.  
Jargonelle.  
Jovars'.  
The red and yellow Balsam Pear.  
Milan Pears.  
Muscadel of Piedmont.  
Round and Rosy Muscat.  
Nançy Muscats.  
Summer Novelet.  
Summer Onion.  
Musky Onionet.  
D' Or.  
The Red Orange of Xainctonge, red and very great.  
Yellow Orange, pennached with red like a Tulip.  
Orange knotted.  
Flat green Orange.  
Canary Palms.  
Perfume of Summer.  
Passe-good of Burgogne.  
Pepin.  
White and Red Piedmont.  
Summer Portugal.  
Putes, or Pimp-Pear.  
Xaintogne Rosy of three sorts.  
Ingranad Rosy.  
Round Rosy, green mixed with red.  
Grey Rosy of Xaintonge.  
Rosy or hasty Butter-Pear.  
Bloody Pear.  
Wild Sweeting.  
Sorel Pear.  
The Sugar Pear.  
White Sugar Pear.  
The Treasurer.  
The Cheat-Liquorish.  
The Turkey Pear.  
The Valley Pear.  
Clown of Anjou.  
Clown of Reatte.   

In September and October.  
AN●y, the English Pear  
The Goose's Bill.  
Long and green Butter-Pear.  
Caillovat of Champagne.  
The Musky Calvill.  
The Cinnamon Pear.  
Cappon.  
The long Clairvils.  
Summer Certeau.  
The Toad-Pear.  
The Deans Pear, white, or St. Michael's Pear.  
The Thorn Pear.  
Fontarabie.  
Galore.  
The Clove Pear.  
The round Clove.  
Grain.  
Rozatte Guamont.  
High Relish.  
Jargonell of Autumn.  
Rosy Kerville.  
The Saucy Pears.  
The Lombardy Pear.  
The Meilleraye Pear.  
The Flies Pear, or Soft Butter.  
Monsieurs Pear.  
Small Melt in Mouth.  
The Muscat.  
Mont Dieu.  
The Moutieres of Dauphin.  
Oignon of Xaintonge.  
The Poitiers.  
The Rebet.  
The Roland▪  
The great Russet of Rheims.  
Small Russet.  
Long Rosy poud'red with red.  
Rosy green two sorts.  
St. Michael.  
St. Samson, or Ditch Pear.  
Champagne without name.  
Sausedge Pear.  
Rozatte of September.  
Supreams.  
The Pear of three tastes.  
The Found-Pear.  
Vintage Pears.  
Ysambert.  
Pear Evelyn.   

In October and November.  
AMadotte.  
The Silver Pear.  
The Bag Pipe Pear.  
The Ice Pear.  
The great stalked Pear.  
Ugly-Good.  
The Lady Pear.  
The great Mary of Amiens.  
Messire John, green.  
The grey Messire John.  
My Lord's Pear.  
The Autumn Marrow in mouth.  
The Peach-Pear.  
The Noiron.  
The Virgin of Flanders.  
The double Virgins.  
Robine.  
King of Saulçay.  
King Musky Pear, all yellow.  
Autumnal Saffran Pear.  
The Seigneur.  
The Sun-Pear.  
The So-good.  
The Vine-Pear.  
The Virgoulette: great and small.   

In November and December.  
ALeaume.  
The Musk Long Bergamo●s.  
The Round Betgamots.  
Bezy D' Hery.  
Carisy.  
The double Cartelle,  
The Burnt Cat.  
The Charity Pear.  
Stopple-Pear.  
The Squib-Pear.  
Spindle-Pear.  
Girogille, or Venus' Nipple.  
Our Lady-Pear.  
The Autumn Pear.  
Winter Virgins.  
King of Autumn.  
The peerless Pear.  
White Sucrin.  
Black Sucrin.   

In December and january.  
THe Nameless Pear.  
Gascogne Bergamotte.  
Musk-Bon-Chrestien.  
Bonne Foy.  
The Ugly Morma.  
Cadillac-Pear.  
Certeau Madam.  
Pear of the other world.  
The Pound Pear.  
The Scarlet Pear.  
The Fig Pear.  
The Winter flower.  
Free Royal.  
The great Mesnil.  
Keville.  
The dry martin's.  
Winter Messire John.  
The white Milan Pear.  
The Onionet with a short stalk.  
The Orient Pear.  
The Leaden Pear.  
The Red King Pear.  
The Rosy Saffran.  
The Rozat of St. Denis.  
The Healthy Pear.  
The Saulsig-Pear.  
The wreathed Pear of two sorts.  
The Cheat Knave or Ugly good.  
The Priest's Load.   

In january and February.  
THe Alencon Pear.  
The Amber Pear.  
The Lover's Pear.  
Bezy of Privillier.  
Bezy of Quassoy.  
The Winter Butter P. of Xaintonge  
The Butter Pear of Yveteaux.  
The Bouvart Pear.  
The Musk Caillotet, or Curdled P.  
The Caillovat of Varennes.  
The Winter Rosy Flint.  
The Carcassonne.  
The great Certeau.  
The Carmelite.  
The small hooked Certeau.  
The Castle Gontier.  
The Condon.  
The Little Dagobert.  
The Dagobert of Miossan.  
Dame Houdette.  
The red Ladder Pear.  
Winter Fine Gold.  
Rosy Florentine.  
The Fremont, or St. Franceis.  
The Winter Spindle.  
The Garay of Auxois.  
The Gourmandine.  
The huge hungry.  
The Incognito of Persia.  
The Winter Legat.  
The sweet Limon.  
The long green Pear of Berny.  
The Micet.  
Winter melt in mouth.  
The Fleshy stalk Muscat.  
The Mazeray Muscat.  
The Winter Bagpipe.  
Nanterre.  
The O●gnon of St. John of Angely.  
The Winter Orenge-Pear.  
The Rose Perigord.  
The petit Oing.  
Plotot, or Squat Pear.  
Portail-Pear.  
The Prince or Bourbon.  
The Prince of Sillery.  
The white Rabu.  
The great and little Ratot.  
The Pear Royal.  
Rozatte of Xaintonge.  
Rozatte of Mazuere.  
St. Anthony-Pear.  
The Suisse with red, green, and yellow Cheeks.  
The Greening.  
The Valladolid.  
The Winter Clown.   

In February and the other following Months till new ones.  
BEzy.  
The latter Bon-Chrestien.  
The great Chrestien.  
Calo Rozat.  
The Gallon Oak-Pear of several sorts.  
The double Blossom Pear.  
Gastelier.  
The great Kairville.  
Liquet.  
The long-lived Pear.  
The Long green pear.  
The Musk pear.  
The Parmein.  
The Winter Virgin.  
Rille.  
The Winter Saffran pear.  
The peerless pear.  
The Thoul pear.  
The great Found pear.  
The little Found pear.  
The Vignolettes.   

Rath-ripe Apples.  
DAnquelles.  
The White Calvil.  
The Clear Calvil.  
The red Calvil. 

Queen Apple.    
White Camoise.  
Carmagnolles.  
The tender Chesnut.  
The Clicquet, or Rattle Apple.  
The single Short-Start.  
Red Short-start.  
The great Cushion Apple.  
Round Cushion Apple.  
Long Cushion Apple.  
The Apple of Hell, or black Apple.  
The Scarlet Apple.  
The Spicing.  
The May-Flower.  
The Raspis Apple.  
Giradottes.  
The Frozen Apple.  
The great-eyed Apple.  
The Jacob Apple.  
Lugelles.  
Magdalene.  
The Minion.  
The Snow Apple.  
Our Lady's Apple.  
The Oblong Lissee.  
Orgeran.  
Passepommes or Hony meal of several kinds.  
Pommasses.  
The white Rambourg.  
Red Rambourg.  
The hasty Reinette or Pippni.  
The Royal.  
The Dewy Apple.  
The large red of September.  
The soft red.  
The St. John of two sorts.  
The clustered Apple.  
The Vignan Court.  
The March Violet.   

Keeping Apples.  
THe great, and small Apis, or  
Appius Claudius.  
The Apioles.  
The Parsley Apple.  
Babichet.  
The great white Apple.  
The lcy white Apple.  
The Little-Good.  
The white Apple of Bretagne.  
The red Apple of Bretagne.  
The Cardinal.  
Camuese, or Flat Snout.  
Winter-Chesnut.  
The Citron-Apple.  
The Coqueret of several sorts.  
Hard Short-Start.  
Red Short-Start.  
Russet Short-Start.  
Dovettes.  
The Bretagne Cloth of Gold.  
The Stranger.  
White Fenovill.  
Red Fenovill.  
The Iron Apple.  
The great bellied Woman.  
The High-good.  
Horluva.  
Jayet.  
The Judea Apple.  
Malingres, or Maligar Apple.  
Mattranges.  
Winter Passepommes, or Hony-Meal.  
The Pigeonnet.  
Pear-Apple.  
The Raeslee.  
The Reinet of Auv●rgne.  
Pippin of Mascons.  
The Grey Reinet.  
The Flat Reinet.  
Robillard.  
The Winter Reed.  
The Rose Apple.  
The Apple without Blossom.  
Health.  
The Seigneur.  
The Vermilion.   

Plums early and late:  
Apricots.  
Abricotines'.  
Amber.  
The great Appetite.  
Bessonne or Twin-plum.  
All Saints, white.  
Blosses.  
Good at Christmas.  
Prunella of Provence.  
Citron Prunellas.  
White Cherry-plum.  
Red little Cherry-plum.  
Round Citrons.  
Pointed Citron.  
Pigeons Heart.  
Cypress.  
Almond.  
The White Damask.  
Great double Damask.  
The latter Grey Damask.  
The hasty black Damask.  
Musky Black Damask.  
The Violet Damask.  
White Date.  
Red Date.  
Great Dattille.  
Datilles.  
Black Diapered.  
White Diapered.  
The Escarcelle.  
The double Flower.  
High Good.  
Great Imperial.  
Round Imperial.  
Joinville.  
Jorases.  
Green Peascod.  
Maximilian.  
Merveille, or Balsam plum.  
Mirabolans.  
Mirabelles.  
The Lookingglass.  
The Egg Yolk.  
Yolk of Bourgogne.  
Monsieurs Plum.  
Montmiret.  
Musk  
The Pass for Velvet of Valency.  
White  
Black  
Red 

Perdrigon.    
Late  
Green  
Great Violet.  
Poictron.  
Small Grape Plum.  
Queen Claudia.  
Cocles Kidney.  
Roche Corbon.  
Roman.  
Latter Round.  
King of Bresse.  
Little St. Anthony.  
St. Catharine.  
St. Cir.  
The White St. Julien.  
Black St. Julien.  
Huge Saluces of two sorts.  
The Plum without Stone.  
Simiennes.  
Black Trudennes.  
Red Trudennes.  
The Vacation Plum.  
The black Vintage.  
Verdach.   

Peaches.  
GReat Alberges.  
Small Alberges.  
Alberges of Province.  
Aubicons.  
Almond Peach.  
Amber Peach.  
Angelicks.  
White forward Peach.  
Yellow forward Peach.  
Great Brignons of Bearn.  
Musky Brignons.  
Cherry Peach.  
Corbeil Peaches.  
Winter hard Peach.  
Double-Flower Peach.  
Gallion Peach very fair.  
Yellow Pavia.  
Magdalen Pavia.  
Magdalene Peach.  
White Mircoton.  
Yellow Mircoton.  
Mircoton of Jarnac.  
Nutmeg Peach.  
Parcouppes, or Gashed Peach.  
Pau-Peach.  
Prune-Peach.  
Pavies-Raves.  
Peach-Rave.  
Persiques.  
Persilles, or Parsley Peach.  
Rossan peach.  
White Scandalis.  
Black Scandalis.  
Yellow peach.  
Troy peach.  
The Fromentee peach.  
The Violet peach.   

Cherries, Heart-Cherries, etc.  
BIgarreaux.  
Red Cherry.  
White Cherry.  
Double Blossom Cherry.  
Heart-Cherrie.  
Preserving Cherry, great.  
Sweet Guin Cherries.  
White Guin Cherries.  
Black Guin Cherries.  
Merizettes.  
Double Blossom Merizier.  
Mountmorency Cherry, Short stalk.  
Rath-ripe: or May.  
Trochets clustered, or Flanders  
Cherry.  
The All Saint's Cherry.   

Figs,  
WHite Figs.  
Bourjassotes.  
Bourno-Saintes.  
Flower-Fig.  
Gourravaund of Languedoc.  
Marseilles Fig.  
White Dwarf.  
Violet Dwarf.  
Violet Fig.   

Oranges.  
BIgarrades.  
China-Orange.  
Spanish  
Genoa 

Orange.    
Portugal  
Province   

Lemons and Citrons.  
LImonchali.  
Limoni Cedri.  
Limoni Dorsi.  
Limoni of Grarita.  
Sweet Lemons.  
Pommes D' Adam.  
Poncilles.  
Spada Fora with Laurel leaves.   

Other curious Trees.  
ARbutus.  
Azarollier, or Neapolitan  
Medlar.  
Carob-tree.  
Cornelian.  
Jujuba.  
Mirabolans' of Africa.  
Medlars without Stone.  
Pistachia.  
Berberies without Stone.   
READER,  
IF in this Catalogue of Fruits, I have either mistaken or omitted many of the true English names, it is because it was a Subjection too insupportable: and besides the French gardiner's themselves are not perfectly accorded concerning them; nor have our Orchards, as yet, attained to so ample a Choice and universal, as to supply the deficiency of the Dictionary.     

 
THE SECOND TREATISE.  

SECTION 1.  
Of Melons, Cucumbers, Gourds, and their Kinds.  
Melons. SINCE Melons are the most precious Fruits that your Kitchen Garden affords, I think it most proper to discourse of them in the Front of this Chapter, & instruct you how you ought to govern them in this our Climate, for which alone, I have calculated all these observations passing by those which (differing from ours) may possibly fill you with doubt, should I confound you with the manner how they order them in the hotter Countries, different from ours, more temperate, and cold in respect to these delicate fruits.  
Seeds. In order to this intention of ours, which is, that we may have them excellent: You must diligently inquire after the best seeds, such as you may procure out of Italy, from Lions, Tours, Anjou, Champagne, and other places, where men emulate one another who shall have the best Melons. Also to have of all the kinds, Sucrin, Morin, Melons, Grenots, white, wrought, or Embrod'red, Ribbed, and others, even to the locking up of those seeds whose fruit has pleased you; for some affect them of one taste, which another will reject, and hold worth nothing. One loves to eat them a little green, another would have them very ripe. And therefore you shall furnish yourself with such kinds as are most agreeable to your taste, and as thrive and ripen best in your ground, which is the thing you must chiefly respect; for oftentimes there comes such reins from August as utterly spoil them; depriving them both of odor, savour, and colour, filling them so with water that they are not to be eaten, and ripening them so altogether, that they are only ●it to be given to horses, who extremely affect them; In brief, these reins spoil, and utterly destroy your Meloniere, where you have bestowed so much care, and the pains of five or six months are lost, without gratifying you with the least of your hopes; and therefore you should endeavour to have them early that you may prevent these inconveniences.  
In those Countries where they raise great store with little trouble; but plant them in the open ground, as we do Cabbages, as soon as the reins come, they give over eating them, and think them as bad as poison.  
Plo●. To begin then your Meloniere, or Melon Plot, you shall choose a place in your garden the most secured from pernicious winds, which you shall close in with a Reede-hedge handsomely bound in Pannells, which you shall set up with sufficient stakes or posts fixed in the ground, and sustained, lest the winds overturn them: To this Enclosure you must make a door, which you shall keep under lock and key, that none molest your Plantation; and particularly to keep out Womenkind at certain times, for reasons you may imagine.  
Figure The Figure at the Frontispiece of this treatise, will easily instruct you in what manner you should enclose your Melon ground.  
In this Park, which may be of what extent you think good, you shall make beds of horse-dung, such as you have provided the winter before and heaped up together in some place near your Meloniere, as fast as it is thrown forth of the stable.  
Season. About midd-February you shall begin to prepare a bed for the seeds, taking dung hot from the stable, and of that of your foresaid heap, mingling them together, that the heat of the fresh may communicate itself to the other.  
Beds. Make your Bed the whole length of your Melon ground, four foot large leaving a path about it of three foot wide, that you may have place to put hot dung when you perceive the bed to languish, and that it begins to cool overmuch.  
This bed handsomely made, and trodden with the feet to excite the heat, you must cover the ●op of it with (near four inches thick) of excellent mould, or rather with that rich stuff, which comes from a last years bed mingled with a little of the purest mould you can procure: This composition you must spread, keeping a board to the side and margin of the bed, and clapping the earth down with your hand against the board, to render it the more firm and even.  
Your Bed thus prepared, of about a yard high you shall suffer to repose till it has passed its greatest heats; which may continue two or three days, more, or less, according to the temper of the season.  
The extremity of heat past (which you shall discover by the sinking of the bed and by examining it with your finger) you will easily judge if it be well qualified for your seed: For if you cannot suffer your finger in it, it is yet too hot, and it ought to be but tepid, but not qui●e cold, in which case, you must heat it again by applying new made dung immediately to the sides of your bed in the passage about it, as I before have described.  
The bed in perfect temper, and your seeds steeped in good Wine-Vinagre, or Cow-milk eight and forty hours, every species apart by themselves: You shall sow them at one end of your bed, reserving the rest, for the other seeds whereof I shall speak hereafter.  
Sowing. Draw then upon your Terras, narrow furrows with the point of your finger quite cross your bed; But let the lines be six inches asunder, and as even as you can, which you may facilitate with the help of a Rule.  
Upon every of these lines make three holes in the earth or Terras, joining your fingers together in fashion of a hens-rump, and in each of these holes put three or four Melon-seeds, all of a sort.  
Upon the intervals 'twixt the lines, which I advised you to leave, you may sow Lettice-seeds for early salads, in other chervil; And you may fringe the whole bed about with purslane; for these herbs will be very forward, and are to be taken up very young, lest they suffocate your Melon-plants, but this will spare you a weeding, and will be a kind of dressing to them also.  
Covering. Be careful to cover your Bed every night, and when the weather is bad, with hurdles made of straw, or close mats, which are to be supported with ribs, and arches of poles or small rafters laid cross into forks fixed in the ground, at the sides of the Bed.  
You shall not approach these Cover nearer than four inches to your bed; if it happen to freeze or snow, you shall then fill the whole vacuum with fresh and newly drawn dung, till the weather be more kind.  
But if your seeds burn, by reason of the too great heat of your bed, (which you shall soon perceive, for they ought not to be long in the ground) you shall sow them all over again, and heat the Bed a new by the sides, with hot dung, as you have been taught.  
Season. The perfect season to sow Melon-seeds, is in the full of February.  
When your plants begin to peep you shall cover them with pretty large Drinking-Glasses, leaving a little passage for the Air 'twixt the Glass and the Earth, lest otherwise, they suffocate and tarnish.  
Thus you shall let them grow to the fourth or sixth leaf before you remove them.  
Transplanting. They are Transplanted after four several fashions. First upon the Beds, which you must prepare at t●e side 〈◊〉 this Genial bed, and all together: Make holes in the middle of these beds four foot asunder, and in each of these holes put in half a bushel of excellent rich mould without making your whole ●ed of it, and in this, you shall Transplant your Melons, taking them dextrously from the Nursing-bed with a good clod of earth about the noots. In the Evening about sunset will be the most convenient time for this purpose, and if it may, let it be after a fair day, for it will much improve your plants.  
This done, shelter the beds from the sun for three or four days following, but you must water them from the first day of their planting that they may take hold and spring the sooner.  
Then you shall cover them with wider glass Bells till the fruit be big, and indeed, as long as the plant may be contained under it, leaving it a little air 'twixt the Bell and the bed for fear of choking the Plant, unless the bell have a hole at the top, which you may stop at night.  
From ten in the Morning till four in the Afternoon, you may take off the Bells, to acquaint them with the air and fortify your Melons against unseasonable weather, but you must cover them again in the Evening.  
Storms. There sometimes happen such storms of hail as crack all the Bells, and to prevent this, some are provided with covers made of straw of the same shape, to clap over the glasses at night, to prevent this accident.  
Bells. Others make Bells of Earth, but I do no way approve of this invention, for it is not possible that the sun should sufficiently penetrate this earth, as it doth the Glass: They may pretend them for the night only and to pervent hail, and that indeed with better reason.  
If you perceive your plant to languish, and not improve, water it within half a foot of its root, with water where in Pigeons dung has been steeped.  
●runing Your Melons now reasonable strong, choose out the prime shoots (which will be in number equal to your seeds) the rest you must geld and prune off, and when you perceive three or four Melons knotted upon one shoot, you shall stop that vine pinching a knot above that of the fruit, then extend all the other shoots of your plants, spreading them upon every part of your Bed, that they may nourish the fruit with more ease, which when it is grown as big as your fist you shall forbear to water any longer, unless it be in some excessive dry season, when you perceive the leaves burn, and that the plant itself scorches; in such case, you may refresh every languishing foot with a little water.  
You must place a Tile under every Melon, the better to fashion them, and advance their maturity by the reflection of the sun from it, and this is a thing which cannot be so well upon a dung-bed, (in which some Transplant and force them) besides they will be much Dryer, and less participate of the loathsome quality of the dung.  
You shall never suffer any small new shoot or string to draw away the Sap from your leading plant, but nip it off immediately, unless it be that your fruit lies naked, and too much exposed, and that it stand in need of any leaves to accelerate its growth & preserve it in temper.  
Transplanting. The second Method of Transplanting Melons, is to make, near the end of summer, trenches of about 2 foot deep, and four foot large, (as they do in Anjou) leaving a square of three foot between each of them, to cast the mould upon, which you must form into a ridge somewhat round, in form of an Asses-back, by which name the French call them. Then you shall fill the trench with good dung, and very rotten earth, scoaring of ditches, which has lain two or three years mellowing in the reins and frosts.  
Season. Then in March when the Winter has sufficiently ripened the foresaid earth, you shall stir and mingle that which lies in the ridge with the ditch-scouring adding to it new dung well consumed, and so fill up your trenches with this mixture, and let it be kept well weeded till the season that you transplant your Melons on it, as I have before instructed you.  
Transplanting. There is yet a third fashion a great deal more easy than this, and which I have found as successful, as any of the former two, and which hath afforded me store of excellent and high tasted Melons every year, (but attribute the principal cause of it, to the goodness of my soil which is Sandy, but richly improved by a long cultivation.) There is no more difficulty in the business, then to give the ground three or four dress before and after Winter, and at the time of Transplanting to make pits in the middle of the beds, which you must fill with a bushel of the mould, and half dung, of an old hot-bed, and in this to set your plants after the manner I have taught you.  
Wa●ring. There are a world of curiosities in transplanting of Melons, some place them in vessels of earth, pierced full of holes, and filled with excellent mould, and so change their beds when they are over chilled, others in baskets of the same shape, and some again, are so nice about them as would weary the most laborious Gardiner.  
Gathering If during the excessive heats you perceive that your Melons suffer for want of refreshment, and scald (as they term it) it will be good to to afford a watering to exery root, but this only in case of extreme necessity, and very rarely.  
To know when your Melon is fit to be gathered, you shall perceive him to be ripe when the stalk seem● as if it would part from the fruit, when they begin to gild and grow Yellow underneath, when the small shoot which is at the same knot withers, and when approaching to the fruit, you be saluted with an agreeable odor. But such as are accustomed, and frequent the Melonieres judge it by the eye, observing only the change of their colour and the intercostal yellowness, which is a sufficient index of their maturity.  
Those Melons which are full of Embroidery and Characters are commonly twelve or fifteen days a fashioning, ere they be perfectly ripe. The Morins grow yellow some days before they be fit to gather.  
For their gathering, let it be according as they turn; If to be conveyed far off you shall gather him instantly upon his first change of colour, for they will finish their ripening by the way. But if he be spent immediately, gather them thrrough-ripe, putting them into a bucket of Water drawn new out of the well, and let them refresh themselves there, as you would treat bottles of Wine, since coming newly from the Melonieres, they are sun-heated, and nothing so quick and agreeable to be eaten.  
Others which you must gather as fast as they ripen may be laid upon a board in some cool place, and spent according to their maturity.  
You shall remember to leave the joint which holds to the stalk of every Melon, with two or three leaves for ornaments, and be careful not to break off the stalk, lest the Melon languish, (as a cask of Wine unbunged) and lose the richness of its gust.  
Visi●i●d and 〈◊〉. You must not think it much to visit your Meloniere at the least four times a day when your Melons begin to ripen, lest they pass their prime, and lose of their tempting, becoming lank and flashy.  
Choice. To choose a perfect good Melon it must neither be too green nor over-ripe; let him be well nourished, and have a thick & short stalk, that he proceed of a Vigorous plant, not forced with too great heat, Weighty in the hand, firm to the touch, dry, and of a Vermilion hue within. Lastly that it have the flavour of that pitchy mixture wherewith seamen dress their cordage.  
Seeds. Remember to reserve the seeds of all such Melons as you found to be excellent and the most early, (as before I advertised you) preserve them carefully, taking those which lodged at the sunny side, they are better at two or three years old then at one.  
Cucumbers. Cucumbers are sown and raised upon the same bed, and at the same time with Melons; having before imbibed the seeds in either cow or breast milk. There are of white and green, which they call Parroquets: You shall forbear to gather some of your fairest, whitest, longest and earliest fruit, but leave them for seed, letting them ripen upon their own Stalks as long as the plant continues, which will be till the first frosts: As for the Parroquets, they may all be spent, since the seeds of the white Cucumbers do sufficiently degenerate into them.  
They are transplanted also as Melons are both in beds and in open ground, but they must be exceedingly watered, to make them produce abundantly; The vines and superfluous shoots must be gelded, the false flowers which will never knot into fruit are to be nipped off.  
The first colds bring the Mildew upon them, which is when the leaves become white and mealy, a sign that they are near their destruction.  
Gather them according to your spending, for they will grow bigger every day, but withal, harder, and the seeds more compacted renders the fruit less agreeable to the taste: They are then in perfection a little before they begin to grow yellow.  
Pumpeons. Pumpeons are raised also upon the hot-bed, and are removed like the former, but for the most part upon plain ground: being placed in some spacious part of your Garden because their shoots and tendrils straggle a great way before they knot into fruit.  
Transplanting. When you transplant them make their pits wide enough asunder, twelve foot or there about, and lay two bushels of rich soil to every plant; because of the strength of the plant; Water them abundantly.  
Gathering. The time of gathering them is in their perfect maturity, which is about August, nor do they spoil at all by lying upon the earth, but become daily riper by it.  
When the first cold begins to come, gather them in a Morning and heap them one upon another, that they may dry in the sun, and afterwards carry them into some temperate Room upon boards, where let them lie without touching one another: above all, preserve them from the frost, for that will immediately perish them.  
If you have plenty, and abound, you may put it into your ordinary household bread or that of your own table. But first you must boil it after the same manner as you prepare it to Fry, only a little more tender, then drain the water from it, and wet your flower with this mash and so make your bread. It will be of better colour, and better relish being a little Dow, and is very wholesome for those who stand in need of refreshment.  
There is a small kind of Pumpeon which knots into fruit near the foot without trailing, and bears abundantly: they must be gelded leaving none but the fairest.  
Poitirons 
* a kind of round Pumpeon or Citrovill.  Potirons white and coloured, Priest-capps, Spanish trumpets, Gourds and the like, are to be ordered as you do Pumpeons, with this only difference, that some of them would be stalked, and not suffered to ramp upon the ground.  
Seed. The seeds of these, as also of pumpeons are to be saved, as you spend their fruit, but it must be carefully cleansed and dried in the air, and secured from mice which devour these seeds as well as those of Melons and cucumbers.   

SECT. II.  
Of Artichokes, Chardons, and Asparagus.  
Artichokes THe Artichock is one of the most excellent Fruits of the Kitchen Garden, and recommended not only for its goodness, and the divers manners of cooking it: but also for that the fruit contiwes in Season a long time.  
Of these there are two sorts, the Violet and the Green. The Slips which grow by the sides of the old Stubs, serve for Plants, which you must set in very good ground, deep dunged, and dressed with two or three manures.  
Planting. When the Frosts are entirely passed, in April you shall plant the Slips, having separated them from the Stem with as much root as you can, that they may take the more easily, and if they be strong enough, they will bear Heads the Autumn following.  
You shall plant them four or five foot distant one from another, according to the goodness of the Soil; for if it be light and sandy, you may plant them closer; if it be a strong ground, at a greater distance to give scope to the leaves, which with the fruit will come fairer and bring forth more double ones.  
They shall need no other Culture before Winter, then to be dressed and weeded sometimes.  
You shall cover them in Winter to preserve them from the Frost; and to do this, they order them after divers manners; some cutting all the Plants within a foot of the ground, and gathering up the rest of the leaves, (as they do to blanche Succory) think it sufficient to make it up in form of a Molehill, leaving out at the top, the extremes of the leaves, about two fingers deep to keep the Plant from suffocating; and then covering them with long dung preserve them thus from the Frosts, and hinder the rain from rotting them.  
Others make trenches 'twixt two ranges, and cast the earth in long banks upon the plants, covering them within two fingers of the tops, as I showed you above: And there be some which only put long dung about the plants, and so they pass the winter very well: All these several fashions are good, and every man a bounds with his particular reason.  
Earthing. Only be not over ea●ly in earthing them, lest they grow rotten, but be sure that the great frosts do not prevent and surprise you, if you have many to govern. If you desire to have fruit in Autumn you need only cut the Stem of such as have borne fruit in the spring, to hinder them from a second shoot. And in Autumn these lusty Stocks will not fail of bearing very fair heads, provided that you dress and dig about them well, and water them in their necessity, taking away the Slips which grow to their sides, and which draw all the substance from the plants.  
The Winter spent, you shall uncover your Artichockes, by little and little, not at once, lest the cold air spoil them, being yet tender, and but newly out of their warm beds: and therefore let it be done at three times, with a four day's interval each time, at the last whereof, you shall dress, dig about and ●rim them very well, discharging them from most of their small slips, not leaving above three of the strongest to each foot for bearers.  
Chard. To procure the Chard of the Artichokes (which is that which grows from the roots of old plants) you shall make use of the old stems which you do not account of. For it will be fit to renew your whole plantation of Artichokes every five-year, because the plant impoverishes the earth, and produces but small fruit.  
Slips. The first fruits gathered, you shall pair the plant within half a foot of the ground, and cut off the Stem as low as you can possible; and thus you will have lusty slips; which grown about a yard high, you shall bind up with a wreath of long straw, but not too close, and then environ them with dung, to blanche them.  
Thus you may leave them till the great frosts before you gather them, and then reserve them for your use in some Cellar or other place less cold.  
Gathering But it is best to gather them from time to time as you spend them, beginning w●th the largest, and sparing the rest, which will soon be ready, having now all the nourishment of the plant.  
Spanish Chardon. The Spanish Chardons are not so delicate to govern, as those of the Artichoke, nor produce they chards so sweet and tender: they are to be tied up after the same manner to make them white.  
They spring of seeds, and are transplanted in slips. The flowers of these chardons which are little violet coloured beards, being dried in the Air, will serve to turn milk withal, and make it curdle like rennett: The Spaniard and Languedociens use it for that purpose.  
Asparagus Asparagus are to be raised of seeds in a bed a part, the ground prepared before with divers diggings, and well dunged: at the end of two years you may take up the roots and transplant them.  
To lodge them well, you must make trenches four foot large, and two in depth (leaving an interval of four foot wide 'twixt the trenches to cast the mould on which you take out of them) and make them very level at bottom, the earth cast in round banks on both sides, bestow a good dressing upon the bottoms of your trenches mixing the mould with fine rich dung, which you must lay very even in all places. This done, plant your Asparagus by line at three foot distance, placing two roots together: You may range the first at the very edge of the trench, for that when you dig up the Allies, you may in time reduce them to a foot and a half wide, casting the earth upon the quarters, and then cutting above a foot large on either side of your aspargus, where the earth was heaped up, your plants will shoot innumerable roots at the sides of the Alleys.  
You shall plant a third range in the midst between the two which we have named. It will be expedient to place them in Cross squares, that the roots being at a convenient distance they may extend themselves through all the bed.  
Some curious persons put rammshorns at the bottom of the trench, & hold for certain, that they have a kind of Sympathy with Asparagus, which makes them prosper the better, but I refer it to the experienced.  
Dressing. They will need dressing but three times a year. The first, when the Arsparagus have done growing: The second at the beginning of Winter; and the last, a little before they begin to peep: At every one of these dress, you shall something fill, and advance your beds about four fingers high with the earth of your Allies, and over all this spread about two fingers thick of old dung.  
Three years you must forbear to cut, that the plant may be strong, not stubbed, for otherwise they will prove but small. And if you spare them yet four or five years longer, you will have them come as big as leeks, after which time, you may cut uncessantly, leaving the least to bear seed, and that the plant may fortify.  
During these four-years, observing to give them the several dress, as I have declared, your bed will fill, and your paths discharged of their mould, you may dig them up, and lay some rich dung underneath.  
You know that the plants of Asparagus spring up and grow perpetually, and therefore when the mould of your Alleys is all spent upon the beds you must of necessity bring earth to supply them, laying it upon the bed in shape like the lid of a trunk otherwise they will remain naked, and perish.  
Cutting. When you cut your Asparagus, remove a little of the earth from about them, lest you wound the others which are ready to peep, and then cut them as low as you can conveniently, but take heed that you do not offend those that lie hid, for so much will your detriment be, and it will stump your plant.  
Such as you perceive to produce only small ones, you shall spare that they may grow bigger, permitting those which spring up about the end of the season in every bed, to run to seed, and this will exceedingly repair the hurt which you may have done to your plants in reaping their fruit.   

SECT. III.  
Of Cabbages and Lettuce of all sorts.  
Cabbage. THere are so many several sorts of Cabbages, that you shall hardly resolve to have them all in your Garden, for they would employ too great a part of your ground, and therefore it will be best to make choice of such as are most agreeable to your taste, and that are the most delicate and easiest to boil, since the ground which produces them, & the water which boyles them, renders them either more or less excellent.  
Seed. We have seed brought us out of Italy, and we have some in France, those of Italy are the Coleflower, those of Rome, Verona, and Milan, The Boss, the long Cabbage, of Genoa, the curled and others.  
In France we have the ordinary headed Cabbage of several sorts, and some that do not head at all, and therefore I think it necessary to treat here particularly of them all, as briefly as I can.  
Coleflowers. I will begin with Coleflowers as as the most precious: Seed. They bring the seed to us out of Italy, and the Italians receive it from Candia and other Levantine parts, not but that we gather as good in Italy and France also; but it does not produce so large a head, and is subject to degenerate into the boss cabbages, and Na●ets and therefore it were better to furnish one self out of the levant either by some friend, or other correspondent at Rome: The Linen Drapers and Milliners of Paris can give you the best directions in this affair which traffic in those places, Linen, Lace, and Gloves.  
To discover the goodness of the seed (which is the newest) it ought to be of a lively colour, full of oil, exactly round neither shriuled, small or dried, which are all indications of its age, but of a brown hue, not of a bright red which shows that it never ripened kindly upon the stalk.  
Sowing. Being thus provided with good seed, sow it as they do in Italy or France. The Italians sow it in cases and shallow tubes in the full moon of August; It comes speedily up, and will be very strong before Winter: when the Frosts come remove them into your Cellar, or Garden-house, till the Spring, and that the Frosts are gone, and then transplant them into good mould; thus you shall have white, very fair heads, and well conditioned before the great heats of Summer surprise them.  
The Italians stay not so long, as till their heads have attained their utmost growth, but pull them up before, and lay them in the Cellar, interring all their roots and stalks to the very head; ranging them side by side and shelving, where they finish their heads, and will keep a long time; whereas if they left them abroad in the ground, the heats would cause them run to seed.  
The French are satisfied to have them by the end of Autumn keeping them to eat in the Winter: not but that (being early raised) they have some which head about july; but the rest grow hard and tough by reason of the extreme heat, and improve nothing for want of moisture, producing but small and trifling Heads, and most commonly none at all. And therefore I counsel you to sow but a few upon your first Bed in the Meloniere thinly, sowing them thinly in li●es, four fingers asunder, and covering them with the mould. Two or three ridges shall abundantly suffice your store.  
Towards the end of April, when your Melons are off from their beds and transplanted, you may renew your sowing of Coleflowers, (as you were taught before) these will head in Autumn, and must be preserved from the Frosts, to be spent during the Winter.  
Removing. You must stay before you remove them till the leaves are as large as the Ralme of your hand, that they may be strong. Pair away the tops of them, and earth them up to the very necks, that is, so deep that the top leaves appear not above three fingers out of the ground, or to be more intelligible, you shall inter them to the last and upmost knot; Moreover you must hollow little Basins of about half a foot Diameter, and four fingers deep at the foot of each stalk, that the moisture may pass directly to the Root when you water them, it being unprofitably employed elsewhere.  
Transplanting. The just distance in transplanting is three foot asunder; two ranges are sufficient for each Bed: But be careful to keep them weeded and dug as often as they require it, till the leaves cover the ground, and are able to choke the weeds that grow under them.  
If you make Pits in the places where you remove them, and bestow some good Soil (as I described in Melons and Cucumbers) they will the better answer your expectations, for they will produce much fairer heads.  
Cabbage. Watering. All sorts of Cabbages whatever they be, must be carefully watered at first, for a few days after their planting that they may take the better root, which you shall then perceive, when their leaves begin to erect, and flag no longer upon the ground.  
Sowing. All kinds of Cabbages are to be sown upon the Melon bed, whilst the heat remains, that they may cheq and spring the sooner, sow them therefore very thin in travers lines cross your Melon bed.  
In April you shall sow fresh upon the same bed and place where your Melons and Cucumbers stood.  
Birds. Now forasmuch as the Birds are extremely greedy to devour their seeds as soon as they peep, because they bear the husk of it upon the tops of their leaves; I will teach you how you may preserve them. Some spread a Net over the Beds, sustaining it half a foot above the surface: others stick little Mills made of Cards, (such as Children in play run against the wind with) and some make them with thin Chips of Fir, such as the Comfit makers boxes are made withal, tying to the tree or Pole which bears it some Feathers, or thing that continually trembles; this will extremely affright the Birds in the day time, and the Mice in the night; for the least breath of wind will set them a whirling, and prevent the mischief.  
Worms. There breeds besides in these beds a winged Insect, and Palmer worms, which gnaw your seeds and sprouts: To destroy these Enemies, you should place some small vessels, as be●r glasses, and the like, sinking them about three fingers deeper than the surface of the bed, and filling them with water within two fingers of the brim, and in these they will fall and drown themselves as they make their subterranean passages.  
Large sided cabbages. The large sided Cabbages, shall not be sown till May, because they are so tender, and if they be strong enough to be removed by the beginning of july they will head in Autumn: To my Gusto there is no sort of Cabbage comparable to them, for they are speedily boiled, and are so delicate, that the very grossest part of them melts in one's mouth: If you eat broth made of them, Fasting, with but a little bread in it, they will gently loosen the belly, and besides, what ever quantity of them you eat, they will never offend you; Briefly, 'tis a sort of Cabbage, that I can never sufficiently commend, that I may encourage you to furnish your Garden with them rather than with many of the rest.  
White cabbage. Of the White headed Cabbage, those which come out of Flanders are the fairest and of these one of the heads produced in a rich mould hath weighed above forty pounds.  
Those of Aubervilliers are very free, and a delicate meat.  
There is another sort of Cabbage streaked with red veins, the stalk whereof is of a purple colour when you plant it, and they seem to me, the most natural of all the rest, for they pome, close to the ground and shoot but few leaves before they are headed, growing so extremely close, that they are almost flat at top.  
Red cabbage. The red Cabbage should likewise have a little place in your Garden, for its use in certain diseases.  
Pefumed cabbage. There is yet another sort of Cabbage, that cast a strong musky Perfume, but bear small heads, yet are to be prized for their excellent odor.  
The pale tender Cabbages are not to be sown till August, that they may be removed a little before the Winter, where they may grow and furnish you all the winter long, and especially during the greater Frosts, which do but soften, mellow, and render them excellent meat.  
They plant also all those Italian kinds, of which the 
* A long excellentt cabbage.  Pancaliers are most in esteem, by reason of their perfumed relish.  
Planting. To plant all these sorts of Cabbages, the ground deeply trenched and well dunged beneath; you shall tread it out into beds of four foot large; and within a foot of the margin, you shall make a small trench, four fingers in depth, and of half a foot large, angular at the bottom, like a Plough-Furrow new turned up: In this Trench (towards the Evening of a fair day) you shall make holes with a Setting stick, and so plant your Cabbages, sinking them to the neck of the very tenderest leaves; having before pared off their Tops. Place them at a convenient distance, according to their bigness and spreading; then give them diligent Water, which you shall pour into these furrows only; since it would be but superfluous to water the whole bed.  
A man may transplant them confusedly in whole quarters, especially the paler sort, for the frosts; but it is neither so commodious as in beds for the ease of watering them, nor for the distinction of their species: Be careful to take away all the dead leaves of your Cabbages, as well that they may look handsomely, as to avoid the ill scents which proceed from their corruption, which breeds and invites the Vermin, Snail, Frogs and Toads, and the like which greatly endamage the Plants.  
Seed. When their heads and romes are form, if you perceive any of them ready to run to seed, draw the plant half out of the ground, or tread down the Stem, till the cabbage inclines to one side, this will much impead its seeding, and you may mark those Cabbages to be first spent.  
For the seeds, reserve of your best Cabbages, transplanting them in some warm place, free from the Winter winds, during the greater frosts, and covering them with Earthen Pots, and warm soil over the pots: But when the weather is mild, you may sometimes show them the air, and reinvigorate them with the sun, being careful to cover them again in the evening, lest the frost surprise them.  
Others you shall preserve in the house, hanging them up by their roots about a fortnight, that so all the water that lurks amongst the leaves may drop out, which would otherwise rot them. That season passed bury them in ground half way the stalk, ranging them so near as they may touch each other.  
For those which arrive to no head you need only remove them, or leave them in the places where they stand, they will endure the Winter well enough, and run to seed betimes.  
When the seed is ripe (which you will know by the dryness of the swads which will then open of themselves) you shall gently pull up the Plant, drawing it by the stalks, and lay them aslope at the foot of your Hedges or Walls to dry, and perfect their maturity: but it w●ll not be amiss to fasten them with some small twig of an Ozyer, for fear the Wind fling them down, and disperse a great deal of the Seeds.  
Season of sowing. In August you shall sow Cabbages to head, upon some bed by itself, there to pass the Winter, as in a Nursery, till the Spring, when you must plant them forth in the manner I have already taught: and by this means you will have headed Cabbages betimes, especially provided that you be careful in well ordering them.  
Infects. There are several little Animals which gnaw and endamage Cabbages, as well whilst they are yet young and tender, as when they be arrived to bigger growth; as a certain green hopping Fly, Snails, Ants, the great Flea, etc. The best expedient I find to destroy these Infects, is, the frequent watering, which chases them away, or kills them: For during the great heats, you shall see your Cabbages dwindle and pine away, every day importuned by these Animals.  
At the full of the moon every Month, if the weather be fair, it is good to sow your Cabbages, that you may prevent the disorders, which these Devourers bring upon them: and you may do it without expense, by sowing them upon the borders under your Fruit Trees, which you must frequently dig, and besides the waterings which you must bestow upon your young Plants, will wonderfully improve your Trees.  
There are a curious sort of Cabbages, which bear many heads upon the same stalk, but they are not so delicate as the other.  
When yo● have cut off the heads of your Cabbages, if you will not extirpate the Trunk, they will produce small small sets, which the Italians call Broccoli, the French des Broques, and are ordinarily eaten in Lent in Pease-Pottage, and 
* Small dishes of several things which stand 'twixt the greater to garnish the table.  Intermesses at the best Tables.  
Letice. There are almost as many sorts of Lettuce as there be of Cabbages and therefore I have ranged them together in the same chapter.  
For such as harden and grow into heads we have the Cabbage-Lettuce and a sort that bears divers heads upon the same stalk.  
The Cockle Lettuce, the Genoa, Roman and the curled lettuce, which pome like Succory.  
Others that grow not so close, as a sort of curled lettuce and several other species: Others which must be bound to render them white, such as the Oake-leafed, the Royal and Roman.  
Sowing. Lettuce may be sown all the year long, Winter excepted: for from the time that you begin to sow them upon your first Bed (as I have described it in the Article of Melons) to the very end of October, you may raise them.  
Transplanting. To make them pome and head like a Cabbage, you shall need only to transplant them, half a foot or little more distant, and this you may do upon the borders, under your Hedges, Trees, and Palisades, without employing any other quarter of your Garden.  
During the excessive heat of the year, it will be difficult to make them head, unless you water them plentifully, because the Season prompts them to run to seed.  
Those of Genoa are to be preferred before all others, by reason of their bigness, and for that they will endure the Winter above ground, being transplanted; or you may make use of them in Pottage, and for that they furnish you with heads from the very end of April.  
For such as do not come to head at all you need only sow them, and as they spring, to thin them (that is extirpate the supperfluous) that those which remain may have sufficient soup to spread: some transplant them, but it is lost labour, the Plant being so easily raised.  
Roman lettuce. Heading. The Lettice-Royall would be removed at a foot or more distance, and when you perceive that the plants have covered all the ground then in some fair day, and when the morning dew is vanished you shall tie them in two or three several places one above another, which you may do with any long straw, or raw-hemp, and this at several times, viz. not promisevously, as they stand, but choosing the fairest plants first to give room and air to the more feeble, and by this means they will last you the longer: The first being blanched, and ready, before the other are fit to bind.  
Blanching. If you would blanche them with more expedition, you shall cover every plant with a small earthen Pot fashioned like a Goldsmith's Crusible, and then lay some hot soil upon them; and thus they will quickly become white.  
Seed. Lettuce-seed is very easily gathered, because the great heats cause it to spring sooner up than one would have it, especially the earliest swoon. Pull them therefore up as soon as you perceive that above half of their flowers are past, and lay them a ripening against your hedges, and in ten or twelve days they will be dry enough to rub out their seed betwixt your hands, which being cleansed from the husks and ordure, preserve, each kind by itself.   

SECT. IV.  
Of Roots.  
Roots. Parsenp. THe Red Beet, or Roman Parsnep, as the greatest, shall have the pre-eminence in this Chapter. They should be placed in excellent ground, well soiled and trenched, that they may produce long and fair roots, not forked; for if they do not encounter a bottom to their liking, they spread indeed at head, but have always a hole in the middle, which being very profound, renders them tough and full of Fibers to the great detriment of their colour, which makes them despised. And therefore, if, to avoid the expense, you do not trench your Garden, you must of necessity bestow two diggings one upon another, as I shall here teach you, a diminutive only of trenching.  
You must dig a Furrow all the length of your Bed, a full foot deep, and two foot large, casting the earth all at one side, then dig another course in the same trench, as deep as possible you can, without casting out the mould: afterwards fling in excellent Dung, fat and rich, which must lie about four fingers thick; and for this the Soil of Cows and Sheep, newly made after fothering time is past, is the best. When this is done, dig a second trench, casting the first mould upon this Compost, and lay dung upon that likewise; then dig the next, and cast Soil upon that, as you did upon the first, and so continue this till you have trenched the whole Bed. Your last Furrow will be but a single depth, for which you may consider of three expedients, and take that which best pleases you, and which will cost you least to fill; or else you may fetch the earth which you took out of the first trench, and fill it up even, setting your Level on, or leaving it void to cast your weeds into, where they will consume and become good soil reserving so much earth as will serve to make the Area of the bed even, at every dressing which you give it.  
This manner of good husbandry is what I would have described before in the first section of the former Treatise, when I spoke of trenching the ground, when I promised to show how you should better and improve your Garden at less charge, and this I esteem sufficient for the raising of all sorts of pot herbs and pulse.  
●owing. The winter entirely past you shall sow your Red Beets either upon Beds, making holes with the setting stick fourteen or fifteen inches asunder, and dropping 3 seeds into every hole, or confusedly, to be transplanted, those which are not transplanted be subject to grow forked, but those which you thus remove, grow ordinarily longer and fairer, because you will be sure to choose the likeliest plants.  
Removing. In removing the plants you shall practise the same rule that I showed in Cabbages, excepting only, that you cut not off the tops.  
Housing. A little before the frosts you shall draw them out of the ground, and lay them in the house, burying their Roots in the Sand to the neck of the Plant, and ranging them one by another somewhat shelving and thus another bed of sand, and another of Beets, continuing this order to the last. After this manner they will keep very fresh, spending them as you have occasion, and as they stand, and not drawing any of them out of the middle or sides for choice.  
Seed. For the Seed you shall reserve of the best and fairest Roots, which you shall bury as you did the rest, to replant in the Spring, in some void place near the borders of your fruit-hedges; because there you may stop its growth, which the winds would overthrow by reason of its overlopping, and poise; unless it be sustained: except that you had rather place them in some Bed, where you must support them with strong stakes for the purpose.  
The Grain ripe, pull up the Plan●s, and tie them to your Pole-hedg, that they may dry and ripen with the more facility: then rub it out gently 'twixt your hands, and be sure to dry it well to preserve it from becoming musty.  
Carrots. Carrots and Parsneps are to be governed like Beets; but are much more hardy, and easily endure the Winter without prejudice, till the Spring, when they run up to seed, and are then not to be eaten: and therefore you shall draw your provisions in the Winter, and preserve them for your spending, as you did the Beets.  
Season. There are Carrots of three colours, yellow, white, and red. The first of these is the most delicate, for the Pot, or Inter-mess: If you would have those that be very tender in May (as the Picards and those of Amiens have them, who put them in their Pottage instead of herbs) you must soil the ground, and prepare it by good dressing before Summer. In August you shall sow at the decrease of the Moon: They will spring before Winter, and when you cleanse them from weeds, you must thin them where you find they grow confusedly, since you need not transplant them as you do your Beets.  
Seed. For the Seed, choose the very prime and longest Roots; lay them all Winter in the Cellar, and set them in the ground again at the Spring as you do Beets, that they may run to seed: and in case you leave any in the ground, they will easily pass the winter without rotting, and come to seed in their season: but it is best to draw them out, as I said, that you may cull the best for propagation; a Rule to be well observed in all sorts of Plants, if you be ambitious to have the best.  
Salsifix. Garden Salsifix is of two sorts, the common is of a Violet colour, the other is yellow: This is the Salsifix of Spain which they call Scorsonera, they are different as well in leaf, as in flower: For the Violet have their leaf like the small five ribbed Plantine, and those of the Yellow are much larger.  
It is but very lately that we have had this Scorsonera in France; and I think myself to be one of the first: 'Tis a Plant abundantly more delicious than the common Salsifix, and has pre-eminence above all other. Roots, that it does not lie in the ground as other roots which become stringy and endure but a year: Leave these as long as you please in the Earth, they will daily grow bigger, and are fit to eat at all seasons; though it yearly run up to Seed.  
Dressing. 'Tis good to scrape off the brown crusty part of the Rind (from whence they derive their name Scorfonera) and to let them soak a while in fair water before you boil them; because they cast forth a little Bitterness, which they will else retain, and that the common Salsifix is free of; which being simply washed, are boiled, and the Skin peeled off afterward.  
Season. There are two seasons of sowing; in the Spring, and when the Flower is past; letting the seed fly away: for the more uniformity they are sown in Lines upon Beds; four ranks on a bed: When they blow you must Rail about your bed with stakes and poles like a pole hedge, for fear the wind break their stalks and fling them down, to the great prejudice of your seed. But the common salsifix does flower before the Spanish.  
Seed. To gather the seed, you must be sure to visit your salsifix four or five times a day, for it will vanish and fly away like the down or Gossemeere, of Dandelyon, and therefore you must be watchful, to gather all the beards, and taking them with the tops of your fingers, pluck out the seed (as soon as ever you perceive their heads to grow downy) which you shall put into some earthen pot (which must stand ready, near the bed, that you may not be troubled to carry it in and out so often) covering it with a tile, to keep out the rain, etc.  
Radishes. There are three sorts of Radishes. The Horseradish, the Black-Radish and the Small ordinary eating radish.  
Horse-radishes. The Horseradish is a gross kind of food, very common in Lymoges amongst the poorer people, who diversely accommodate them, by boiling, frying, and eating them with oil, having first cut them in slices and soaked them in water to take away their rankness: You may sow them all jaly even to three lines, that in case the first crops do not prosper, the other may. They affect a sandy ground well soiled, and turned up two or three times, and so they will come very fair, there are some that are as big as a twopeny loaf: You must draw them out of the ground before the frosts, and conserve them in a warm place, as you do your Turnips.  
Seed. For their seed you need only leave the fairest in the ground which will pass the Winter well enough and produce you their seed in their season▪ but the most certain way is to transplant some of the biggest as soon as the hard Frosts are past.  
The Black Radish is little worth, but they are raised as the smaller are.  
Small radish. Sowing. The Small Radish or little Rabbon, may be sown at every decrease of the Moon, from the time you begin your hot Melon-Bed, to the very end of October. They are several ways ordered: for if you desire them very fair, transparent, clean and long, you must when you sow your Melons in some part of the Bed, (whilst it yet remains warm) make holes as deep as your finger, three inches distant from each other. In every of these holes drop in two Radish seeds, and covering them with a little sand leave the rest of the hole open: thus they will grow to the whole length of your finger higher than otherwise they would have done, and not put forth any leaves till after they are come up above the level of the Bed.  
When your Melons are transplanted, you may sow them upon their bed, and in other open ground, by even lines.  
Seed. Let the first sown run to seed, and gather them when you first perceive their Swads below to open and shed: then lay them to ripen and dry along your Hedges, as I instructed you before. The best seed which we have comes from the Gardens about Amiens; where amongst their low grounds they raise that which is excellent. At their first coming up, they appear like the wild: but after the fourth or sixth leaf they grow very lusty, provided they be well watered.  
Turnips. There are several sorts of Turnips which I shall not particularise; I shall only affirm that the lesser are the best, and most agreeable to the taste, the other being soft, flashy, and insipid.  
Season. You may sow them at two seasons; at spring, and in the beginning of August. All the difficulty is in taking the right time, for if the weather prove wet, the seed will burst, and not sprout at all: If too dry it will not come up, and therefore, if you perceive your first season to fail, you shall give them a second digging or howing, and sow anew. Vermine. So soon as they come up and have two or four leaves, if the weather be very dry, the Ticquet, or winged worms, and the flea, will fall upon them and devour them, and all your pains: therefore (as I said) if you see your first to have failed, you must begin again.  
To be excellent, they must not remain above six-weekes in the ground, lest they become wormeaten, withered, ill meat, and full of strings.  
Housing. House●hem ●hem in Winter in your Cellar, or some other place where they may be exempt from the frost, and without any other trouble, save laying them in heaps, or bunches.  
Seed. For the seed reserve the biggest, longest, and brightest roots, which you shall plant in the ground at spring, and draw forth again when you perceive the pods to open; then set them a drying, and afterwards rub out the seed upon a sheet, exposed the remainder of the day to the sun to exhaust their moisture; then, having well cleansed it, reserve it in some temperate place.  
Parsly. We will range Parsley also among the roots, though its leaf be the most in esteem, and used in several dishes, serving oftentimes instead of Pepper and spice.  
Season. When the frosts are past, you shall sow the greater and lesser sort of Parsley, the Pennached, and the curled, in ground deeply dug, and well ●oyled that it may produce long and goodly roots. Sow your seed upon your beds in each four lines, the mould made very fine and well raked: You may sow Leeks over them, chopping them gently in with the rake only: when all is clear, cover the whole bed about two fingers thick with some dung of the old bed as well to amend the ground, as to preserve the seeds from being beaten out with the rain, your watering, and from bursting.  
Dressing. Now ●ince Parsly-seed lies a month in the ground, before it comes up, the leeks will have time enough to spring and be sufficiently strong to be removed, and when you pull them up for this purpose, it will serve as a second dressing and weeding to your parsley, and when by this means they are grown, you may thin them where you perceive the plants come up too thick, which will very much improve them.  
You may cut the leaves when ever you have need, without the least detriment to the plant.  
roots. Leave the roots in the ground for your use, because they daily grow bigger and that even all the winter long, however you'll do well to take as many up as you conceive you may need, lest when the earth is hard frozen, you can procure none in case of necessity.  
Seed. For the seed, let one end of your bed stand unpulled up till it is all ripe, which you must set a drying, as you did the others.  
Skirret. The Skirret comes of seed and of plants, but the best and fairest of plants; and of these, those which they bring from Troy's in Champagne are most esteemed.  
To plant them, you must in spring (the ground well dug, and dressed) make four small rills on each bed, two fingers deep, then make holes with the dibber at half inch distance setting in every hole two or three young Slips, which you may take from the old plants, being careful to water them at the beginning.  
Spending. Draw them out of the ground according as you spend them, the rest which you leave will grow bigger and in their season produce their ●eed.  
Rampions' Rampions, though it be a plant very agreeable to the taste, and which they have several ways of dressing: Yet I will not spend time in teaching you how to order them, since they grow wild in sufficient quantity, and are not worth the trouble ofr●aising.  
Jerusalem Artichokes jerusalem Artichokes are round roots which come all in knots and are eaten in Lent like the bottoms of other Artichokes: they need no great ordering, and if they be planted in good ground they will flourish exceedingly.  
Seed. They are raised of seed, and planted in roots, bearing flowers, like a small Heliotrope, in which there grows a world of seed. Danger. The Physicians say that the use of them is prejudicial to the health and that they are therefore to be banished from good Tables   

SECT. V.  
Of all sorts of Potherbs.  
Potherbs. Beet-leeks WE will begin with the white Beet or Leeks as being the greatest of all the Potherbs, and of which there is more spent then of any of the rest.  
The white Beet or Beet-Card (for so some will call it in imitation of the Picards, who really merit the honour to be esteemed the best and most curious gardiner's for herbs, before any other of all the Provinces of France: Be it that the●r soil and climate produce more, or that they are more industrious. Their Herbs are a great deal more fair and large, then in other places. Season. I have seen of those amongst them that have been of eight inches Circumference, or little less, and in length proportionable to their thickness) is to be sown at Spring when the Frosts are quite gone. Transplanting. You may make use of your Hedge-borders for this purpose, and when they come to have six leaves, you shall transplant them in ground that has been deeply trenched the Autumn before, and lain mellowing all the Winter. Before you remove them, soil the ground very well, and then giving it another digging, turn the dung into the bottom, then taking them out of your Nursery beds, cut off their tops and transplant them in quarters, two ranges in a Bed; and a yard distant, making a small Trench or Line, as I showed before, concerning removing of Cabbages, which I forbear to repeat to avoid prolixity.  
If you would have them abound in fair Cards, you must keep them well hold, Weeded, and watered when you perceive they need it.  
Gathering. You must not cut them when you gather, but pull them off from the plant, drawing them a little aside, and so you shall not injure the stalk, but rather improve those which remain: a little time will repair its loss.  
Plant not those for Cards which you shall find green, for they degenerate.  
Sowing. You may sow them all the Summer, that you may have for the Pot, and to farce such as are tender: also at the end of August, which you may let stand all the winter as a Nursery, and transplant at Spring, which will furnish you with Leeks very early.  
red Beets. There is a Red Beet if you desire to have of them, for Curiosity rather than for use, because they produce but small Cards, which being boiled, lose much of their tincture, becoming pale, which renders them less agreeable to the palate, and to the Eye, than the white.  
Seed. For the Seed, leave growing of the whitest and largest, without cropping any of their leaves, which you shall support with a good stake, lest its weight overthrow it, to the prejudice of the Seeds which would then rot in lieu of ripening. Two Plants are sufficient to store you amply, which you shall pull up in fair weather (when, by the yellowness of the colour you shall judge it to be ripe) and lay a drying, afterwards rub out the seeds with your hands upon some cloth, and cleansing it from the husks, give it a second drying, lest it become musty; for being of a spongy substance, as the Red Beets are, it will continue a long time moist.  
Orache. There is another sort of Beets, which is called Oracke, very agreeable to the taste, it is excellent in Pottage, and carries its own Butter in itself: it is raised as the former is, excepting only that you may plant it nearer, and needs no transplanting, 'tis sufficient that it be weeded, and hoved when there is cause.  
Succory. There are several kinds of Garden Succories, different in leaf and bigness, but resembling in taste, and which are to be ordered alike.  
Season. Sow it in the Spring upon the borders, & when it has 6 leaves replant it in rich ground about 18 inches distance, paring them at the tops. When they are grown so large as to cover the ground, tie them up, as I instructed you before, where I treated of Rome▪ Lettuce, not to bind them up by handfuls as they grow promiscuously, but the strongest & forwardest at first, letting the other fortify. I remit you thitherto avo●d repetition. It is in the second Section, Art. Lettuce, where you will also find the manner of whiting it under earthen Pots.  
Blanching. There is yet another fashion of Blanching it. In the great heats, when instead of heading you perceive it would run to seed, hollow the earth at one side of the Plant, and couch it down without violating any of the leaves, and so cover it, leaving out only the tops and extremity of the leaves, and thus it will become white in a little time, and be hindered from running to seed.  
Those who are very curious bind the leaves gently before they inter them, to keep out the Grit from entering between them, which is very troublesome to wash out, when you would dress it.  
Remember to couch them all at one side, one upon another, as they grew being planted, beginning with that which is nearest the end of the Bed, and continuing to lay them, the second upon the first, and the third upon the second, till you have finished all the ranges.  
I find likewise two other manners of blanching them for the Winter; The first is at the first frosts, That you ●ye them after the ordinary way, and then at the end of eight or ten days, plucking them up, couch them in the bed, where you raised them from seeds, making a small trench cross the Bed the height of your plant, which will be about eight inches, beginning at one end. In this you shall range your plant's side by side, so as they may gently touch, and a little shelving: this done, cover them with small rotten dung of the same bed: Then make another Furrow for a second range, in which order lay your plants as before, continuing this order till you have finished, and last of all cover the whole bed four fingers thick, with hot soil fresh drawn out of the Stable; and in a short time they will be blanched. If you will afterwards cover the Bed with some Mats placed aslant, like the ridge of a house to preserve them from the rain, they will last a very long time without rotting. When you would have any of them for use, begin at the last which you buried, and, taking them as they come, draw them out of the range, and break off what you find rotten upon the place, or that which has contracted any blackness from the dung, before you put it into your Basket for the Kitchen.  
Housing. A second manner of preserving it, is, to inter it, as before, in Furrows of Sand in the Cellar, placing the root upmost, lest the Sand run in between the leaves, and you find it in the Dish when they serve it. You need not here bestow any Dung upon them, it is sufficient that the Sand cover the Plant four fingers high, and when you take it out for use, before you dress it, shake it well the Root upmost, that all the Sand may fall out from the leaves. Take them likewise as they happen to lie in the Ranges.  
There is a kind of Succory, which hardens of itself without binding; which is a small sort, but very much prized for its excellence.  
Seed. For the Seed, leave of the fairest Plants growing, and particularly such as you perceive would whiten of themselves, and head without tying. Let it well mature, though it a little over ripen: since it is not subject to scatter and fall out as many others are. On the contrary, when being exceedingly dried, you shall lay it upon the Barn-floor, you shall have much ado, to fetch out the Seeds from the heads, though you thrash it with a Flail.  
Endive. Of Endive or wild Succory, some of it bears a blue Flower, others a white, it is to be governed like the Garden, but with less difficulty; for you need only sow it in a small Rill, weeding, hoving, and thinning it in due season.  
Blanching. Housing. To blanche it, cover it only with reasonable warm dung, and drawing it out at the first appearance of Frost, keep it under sand in your Cellar, as you do other Roots: but first, it ought to be almost white of itself: The root is very much esteemed, which has made me dubious whether I should not have placed it amongst them, but I concluded it most properly reserved with the curled Succory in respect of their conformity, as well in growing, as in producing its seeds.  
Sorre●l. Of Sorrel we have very many kinds, the Great, the Lazy, etc. for as much as one leaf is sufficient for Pottage, being so prodigiously large, that they have some leaves seven inches broad and fifteen or eighteen long: It is a sort which has been transported out of the Low-Countryes, and I have had of the first.  
A second kind is another large Sorrel resembling Patience.  
A third produces no seed, but is propagated from the small side-leaves, which it shoots when it begins to spread in the ground.  
A fourth is the Small Sorrel which we have had so long in use.  
A fifth is the round-leaved Sorrel, large, and small, which also does not seed, but is to be raised of the little strings with which it o'respreads the ground, and by little tendrels which grow about the plant, and which you may take up in tuffts to furnish your beds withal.  
A sixth is the Wild sorrel, frequently found upon the up-lands and therefore not worth the pains to plant in gardens.  
Lastly, there is a seventh sort, which bears a small traingular leaf called Alleluja, it is very delicate and agreeable by reason of its acidity, like the other sorrel for taste, but excellent in pottage, Farces and Salads, as being endowed with the same qualities and relish of the other sorrels.  
Soweing. You may sow all those sorts, which produce seed, after the frosts, in narrow rills, four in a bed, but be diligent to weed it, lest it be overgrown; when it is a little strong thin it a little, that it may the better prosper, and if you please, you may furnish other beds with what you take away.  
Transplanting But it is the best way if you would transplant it, it, to gather of the strongest, and at the beginning of Autumn or spring make borders a part: They do well either way, continue long in perfection, even till ten or twelve years. But than it will be fit to remove it, because the ground will be weary of being always burdened with the same plant, and delights in diversity: besides the roots crowding and pressing one another, cannot find sufficient substance to nourish and entertain them.  
Dressing▪ They must be dug at least thrice a year, which should be at the entry of the hard frosts, you must shake some Melon bed dung upon them: The Soil of Poultry is excellent and makes it wonderfully flourish.  
At this second digging, you shall extirpate what ever you find grow scatring out of range by the shedding of seed, and geuld them also about, cutting off all the leaves and stalks near the ground, before you cover them with the dung.  
Seed. The seed is easily gathered from such as bear it, for it runs up at Midd-Summer, and when you see it ripe, cut off the stalks close to ground, afterwards being dried, it soon quits the pouches, cleanse it well and preserve it for use.  
Patience. Patience must be ordered like Sorrel: The plant is not so delicious to the Palate, however one would have a bed of it, that your Garden may be complete.  
borage. The Virtues of borage recommends it to your Garden, though it impair the colour of your Pottage, darkening it a little The flowers of it are a very agreeable service, to garnish the meat, pottages, Salads, and other dishes; since by reason of their sweetness, they may be eaten without any disgust.  
Soweing. It is to be sow●e in the spring, like other herbs, and may be left in the ground: their hardy Ro●ts supporting the hardest frosts, sprouting a fresh in the Spring: The Gardiner's of Paris pull up the whole plant, and sow it many times in the year, to have it always tender.  
For the ordering of it, it is sufficient that it be gently hoved and weeded.  
Seed. For the seed, let the fairest plants run, and when they are full ripe on the stalk, gather and save it.  
bugloss. bugloss is to be governed like borage, and therefore I will spend no more time upon it.  
Chervill. Chervill, besides what I told you before, that you should sow it upon Beds to compose swaller Salads at the end of Winter; It will be good to sow new from month to month (though it be but little) that you may still have it fresh and more tender, then that which is old swoon. The borders of your Wall-fruit and hedges may serve for this effect, forasmuch as it cannot prejudice your Trees, being so small, and requiring so little substance for its growth, and the small time of its Sojourn in a place.  
Seed. You shall let one end of your bed run to grain, which will amply suffice to furnish you, let it ripen well upon the stalk then pull it up or cut it, and dry it perfectly before you reserve it,  
There is another sort of Spanish Chervill which is called Mirrhis Odorata whose leaf much resembles Hemlock: But very agreeable to the taste, having a perfume like the green Anis, and much pleasanter being a little chewed.  
At the spring, when it makes a shoot from its old stalk, they cover it with small dung, and then with hot soil over to choke it, that it may be fit for Salads; It is infinitely to be preferred before Allisanders', or the Sceleri of Italy.  
Sowing. You shall sow it in spring in some place by itself, and till it be come up do nothing to it, besides cleansing it of weeds as they spring up, it being some times a whole year under ground.  
Seed. The seed you shall gather in its season, and order it as you do the rest.  
Allisanders'. Allisanders' are to be ordered as I now showed you in Spanish Chervill, only the seed of it does not lie so long hid, and that it is not to be eaten till it be buried under the dung, or covered with pots like Succory.  
Sceleri. Italian Sceleri shall be treated after the same manner: the shoot or stalk is that which is the most excellent in the plant, because it is so delicate and tender.  
Soweing. These three last plants, are not to be sown every year, but preserve themselves in the ground during Winter without prejudice.  
Purslane. Of Purslaines I find four sorts, the green, and White, and the Golden lately brought us from the Lands of St. Christopher, which is the most delicate of all the rest; and lastly the small wild Purslain▪ which the ground spontaneously produces and is therefore least esteemed.  
Soweing. It is to be sown at spring upon the bed, and all Summer long, to have always that which is tender, burr first you must dig the earth well, and throughly dress it: sprinkle your seed as thin as you can, which is the more difficult to do, because the grain is so exceeding small, and when it is sown, you shall cover it no otherwise, then by clapping the bed with the back of your spade. This done, water it immediately, that you make no holes in the bed, thus it will come up speedily, provided that you ply it with refreshments at the beginning.  
Transplanting. To be master of excellent seed you must transplant it, and thus you will produce goodly stalks● to Pickle, and serve to put in your winter Salads, and in Pottage.  
Seed. You shall perceive the grain to be ripe, when it looks very black, and then you shall pull up the plant, and lay it upon a Sheet to wither, and dry in the sun: But at night carry it in the same sheet into the house, and the next day expose it again, continuing so to do till it be all perfectly ripe, then rub it 'twixt your hands, and pour it into another sheet to dry throughly before you box it up. You shall set your plants a drying again for some days after, and they will furnish you with more seed which could not be gotten out the first time.  
You shall find that new seed is nothing so good to sow as that which is two, three, or four years old.  
Spinach. Of Spinach there are three sorts: The large which has not the leaf so pointed and prickly as the smaller, and the Pale, which makes up the third.  
Soweing. Season. It would be sown in the beginning of Autumn, that it may gather some streugth before winter. If you perceive that it springs too fast, you may cut for pottage, and to make tarts, it will be a great deal tenderer than in Lent when it is chiefly eaten. The manner of soweing of it is on beds in small rills four lines in a bed. When it is up keep it neatly weeded, and extirpate all such straggling plants as you shall find out of their files.  
Seed. Reserve a corner of your Bed for the seed, cutting off all the rest as you have occasion. At Lent pull up the plant quite for the use of the Kitchen, cutting away only the roots.  
The seed is of two sorts, the prickly, and the smooth and round which produces the pale coloured and most delicate.   

SECT. VI  
Of Beanes, Peas, and other▪ Pulse.  
Beanes. THere are three sorts of great Beans. Those which we call at Paris, Marsh-Beans, which grow very large, flat, and of a pale colour: Of others there are many lesser kinds like the first but a little rounder. And some there are less yet than these, and wholly different from the first, being almost exactly round, of a grey, or a little reddish-coulour. And these are such as they give to Horses, and which they grind for divers purposes.  
I shall here only treat how the great ones are to be ordered, leaving the small as of small consequence, and shall show you how different men's opinions are for the time and manner of soweing them,  
Sowing. Some sow them about Advent, and hold that they shall have of the first ready to eat: Others stay till Candlemas, and some will have the frosts first passed: every man hath his particular reasons, because say they, the Flea devours their tops when they are in Flower. For my own particular (who always love to be sure) I stay till after the frosts are past, and I build my reason upon this; That the season is all in all: not that I would dissuade any from soweing in Advent, or in February, but I would advise you to be sparing, and to reserve the greatest quantity for the spring, since it being necessary to sow them in the best ground, and the lowest you have, it would be scarce fit to dig at those two seasons, being more retentive of water then the lighter grounds,  
Choice. Before you sow them, make choice of the most healthy and best conditioned; then steep them a day or two in water wherein dung has been imbibed, this will cause them to flourish exceedingly, and advance their growth above ten or twelve days, and besides they'll not remains so long in the earth before they come up, will greatly prevent the danger of worms, and, being throughly soaked in the foresaid liquor, will participate of its good quality, which is to make them produce great abundance.  
Ground. For their soweing, the ground ought to be dug and prepared before winter, and cleansed of weeds, then with the hove make a furrow, upon the side whereof, (and not at the bottom) drop your beans a little above half a foot asunder, then open another trench, and with the earth which comes out of that, cover your first, than a third, placing your beans as on the first and so continuing every second furrow to drop the beans: be careful to make your trenches as direct as you can, that you may the better have, weed, and crop them, without breaking their stalks, when you pass between them.  
There are others, who after they have well dug and dressed their ground, tread it out into quarters, and plant their beans with a Dibber; but I most of all affect the first, because it makes the ground loser about them.  
Hoving. Whilst they are growing, and that the weeds are ready to choke them, you shall have and cleanse them carefully, without doing them any harm; and when they are pretty strong, you shall observe that the Flies and Gnats will even cover the tops of their spindle's, lighting upon the tenderest part of them, which with your knife you may crop off, and so carry away both the tops and the infects, casting your cuttings into a Bushel, and afterward burn them, or bury them in your dunghill pit, or in some other place distant from your beans, lest they return back again.  
Gathering. Some of these Beds you must destiny to be eaten young and green, and not gather the Pods amongst the whole Crop; and when you have quite plundered a Plant, cut the stalk close to the ground, that it may shoot up another, which will produce its fruit in the latter season.  
Seed. For seed, let them dry upon the stalks, till both the Pods and they are grown black; then in the heat of day pull them up, and thrash them out gently with a Flail, fanning them out at your leisure.  
Hame. Burn not the Hame which they afford, though it makes excellent ashes, but cast it amongst your Soil, and let it rot there, for it will greatly improve it: nay if you would make your ground exceeding rich, sow beans in it, and when they begin to lose their blossoms, dig them in all together, earth and beans, without minding your loss, for this sort of Soil is a wonderful improvement of your land.  
There are a great kind of Beans, which are of a red-brown colour: but they are nothing so delicious as the pale.  
Haricots. The small Haricot or Kidney beans are of two sorts, white, and coloured, amongst which there are also some white, but they are less and rounder than the great white ones.  
Sowing. To commence with the great, you shall sow them in some Bed apart, four ranges in a Bed, that you may the more commodiously stick them, then if they were sown confusedly: some of these also you shall destiny to be eaten green, leaving the rest till they are dryer, and for Seed. When you gather them be careful not to break their Stalks, that they may bear till it be withered to the very root.  
Painted. beans. The painted and coloured Beans, which are a lesser sort, are commonly sown in the open ground, newly dug and raked over, without any further care than what you take of such seeds as are sown abroad in the Fields, unless it be, that, eight or ten days after they are come up, you have them a little, and then touch them no more till they shoot forth their strings, (which is about the beginning of july) which you must cut off, that the Pods may the better prosper, which are below the stalks, and to prevent, that in catching one to another (by over branching) they be not thrown down, and so perish those which grow beneath, instead of ripening them.  
Soil. This kind of Bean doth not require so strong a mould as the Marsh Beans do, but rather a sandy.  
Sowing. They would be sown at the beginning of May, and pulled up as the plants dry, threshing them forth as I spoke before of Marsh-beanes: for if you gather them greener, you will be much troubled to find a convenient place to dry them, they being so cumbersome, if you have plenty.  
White. streaked. beans. As for the white which are riced, seeing they climb to the very top of the boughs, and continue long bearing, you shall do well to gather those Pods which, you find dry, since they do not ripen together, and to prevent two inconveniences, the first whereof is, that being past their maturity, the pod will open of itself in the heat of the day, and so lose out their beans, and the second that in case there fall any considerable reins, the skin of the pods being over soaked, will cleave to the beans with a certain inseparable glue which it produces, indamaging the beans by a musty finnow which bespots them, and makes them very ill-favoured to the sight, and worse to the taste: and besides you will be constrained to shall them out by hand to the great loss of time.  
You should separate and draw out all such as you find black, mixed with black and white, forasmuch as they also become black, and in boiling darken and tinge the liquor.  
Red bean● But the Red are to be esteemed above all the rest, because of their delicateness, much surpassing the white, though they are most accounted of at Paris.  
Peas. Of Pease there are found several Species very much different, viz. The Hot-spurs or Hasties, the Dwarf, the great White Pease, the Black-eyed Pease, great and small Green, the Crowned Pease: and those without Skins of two sorts, the Cic●es with, and without Skins, Monthly Pease, the Grey Pease, and the Lupins.  
Of all which I think it not amiss to particularise in brief, their manner of ordering, though there be no great difficulty in the plant, yet for your better instruction.  
Soweing. There are three manners of soweing Peas. In Beds or quarters making four or five ranges in each. according to the kinds which you will sow: In heaps or clusters, and in confusion.  
Hot-spurrs Hot-spurrs and Hasties, would be sown from Candlemas or a little after the great frosts.  
Soyl. Sandy ground is that which they most delight in to come early and if the place be something high and lie exposed to the South-sun, it will exceedingly advance them, of which we have the experience about Charenton and St. Maur near Paris, from whence we have them very early, and all the secret is, in often hoving them which doth wonderfully advance them.  
Soweing. If you sow them in furrows and lines you will find it very commodious when you come to dress them, because you will find room enough to stand and come at them between the files, without indamaging the shoots, and when they are grow to range them one upon another for the more convenient hoving them, which should be often reterated, and gather the cod with more ●ase when they are ripe without hurting the plants.  
Setting. If you sow them in heaps, plant them with the Setting-stick, or dibber, a full foot distance, and put six or eight Peas in every hole, they will come up and grow without cumbering the ground, if you have the leisure to how and dress them sufficiently.  
As for those which you sow confusedly upon the ground newly dug, or in furrows after the Plough, they will not require so much attendance, because they spread and display themselves on both sides, and cannot be hold above once, without great hazard of spoiling many of them with your feet.  
Great pease. Bushing. All sorts of great Pease (as the White, Green, Crowned, those without Skin, and the Cich●s) would be sown in quarters, and small rills, four ranges in a Bed, for the more commodious bushing them in two ranks, every rank serving to support two of Pease, and the greater kind your Pease are of, the stronger and higher must your Bushes be; because they climb to the very top, producing Cod at every joint; especially the greater kind of those without skins, whose Cod grow eared, and are very weighty, shooting their branches at every joint from the foot, every of which doth oftentimes bear as many Cod, as the Master stalk of the others. This is a sort of Pease which you ought much to esteem for its deliciousness, and they may be eaten green with as much pleasure as Radishes. These are called Holland Pease, and were not long since a great rarity.  
Mould. If you would have very fair Pease, you must sow them in rich mould, and geld them when they are grown about four foot high: but the mischief is, that being sown in a strong ground, they do not boil so well as those which are produced in a light sandy, which is the only proper ground which they require to b●rightly conditioned.  
Distance. You must not set your quarter of Pease so bushed as that they may intertwine and entangle each other; but leave a void Bed betwixt two, to give air to your Plants, lest otherwise they suffocate, and rot at the bottom.  
Beds. You may employ these interposed beds by sowing any other sort of roots heretofore described, and which will wonderfully thrive by reason of the refreshment which they will receive from the Shade of the higher pease.  
Grey pease You shall also set a part some particular beds to be eaten green, and cause the cod to be gathered by some careful person, who may have the patience to take them off handsomely, or else cut them from their stalks without injuring them, that thus relieving the plant from all it affords they may the longer continue.  
Small pease. For the smaller sort of pease (as the White, Green, Grace, Hasties, Dwarf; and black-eyed) you may sow them after the Plough in open Field, for since they do not branch much, they never choke.  
Soweing. They may be sown in two fashions, either in ground newly dug and which has one dressing before wet winter: or under furrow that is, to say by sowing them upon the field, before you Plough, and then in making the furrows the pease slide in, and are covered with earth by the coulter.  
Pigeons. This kind of husbandry is practised for two respects, the one to lodge them coldly when the earth is too light, and the other to preserve them from the Pigeons, for those which are only harrowed in upon the superficies, they scrape out like Poultry, and so devour the greatest part of your seed.  
Hoving. There is also another method of soweing peas, in use amongst those of Picardy: They have a kind of flat ●hou, like those which the Vignerons use about Paris, where the Vines grow in a pale moist soil, or in a sandy. This Instrument is very like their hou's, when they have done with them being too much worn at the sides, these they round to a point in the middle, or to make it more intelligible, they do very much resemble the coulter of a Plough, and use it after the same fashion as they plow the furrows, that is, without ridges or paths, save only upon the Lands where it is divided 'twixt neighbour and neighbour.  
With these, upon newly dug ground, cleansed of weeds and well dressed, they make a rill or tr●nch, going backward and drawing the earth which separates itself on both sides: And in these furrows they sow their Pease at a reasonable distance and then beginning a second rill, the Hove covers that which was sown before. And so the third the second, till they have finished the whole Plot. This manner of Husbandry is very expedite, and commodious for their cleansing, without danger of treading upon them when they are grown. In this manner they sow likewise all sorts of Beans, Radishes, Sorrel, Leeks, and divers other herbs, some deeper than other, according to the nature and strength of the seed.  
Monthly pease. Monthly Pease (so called because they last almost the whole Year, continually flourishing) must be sown in some place of your Garden well defended from the cold win●les, that you may have Fruit betimes.  
C●●ting. They need no other curiosity about ordering then other Pease, only that they would be speedily cut being green, leaving none of them to dry; and as you perceive that any thing springs from them of which you have no hope it should produce Cod, to cut it off.  
Wat●ing. You must have a great care to water them, especially during August, and to shelter them with panels of Reeds or Mattresses during the excessive heats, to preserve them from the scorching Sun.  
Lupins. Lupins or Taulpins (so called because the Mole flies the place where they are sown) are a flat kind of Pease, round like a bruised Pistol bullet. Slave-peas. In the Galleys they call them Slave-peas, because they are their chief sustenance: They are bitter of taste, and must be a long time soaked before they be boiled. They proceed from pods fastened to the stalk like beans, and are very full. In Spain they sow whole fields of them for their cattle.  
Soweing. They must be sown in furrows four fingers distant, and four files in a bed and will prosper well enough in ordinary ground.  
Lentils Lentils should be sown at the same season as pease in ground newly dug, but if it were prepared the winter before, they will be a great deal fairer. Mould. They affect Sandy mould, and are to be gathered being ripe, and may be bound in swaths: Thus you may leave them in the barns as long as you please unthrashed, because they are not so obnoxious to the mice not to be worm-eaten as other peas which are continually gnawn as long as they remain in their cod, Thrashing and therefore they must be thrashed out as soon as possible you can, for which reason some bringing them out of the Field in a fair day, thrash them in the very Street upon some Spacious place exposed to the Sun, which does much contribute to their loosning: Housing. For there is a great deal of trouble in housing them and besides they will Sweat as many other grains do, and Soften their Cod which makes them difficult to beat out: Notwithstanding you may House the Grey Peas to give your Horses in the H●me, which will whet their appetite, and much restore them if they be fallen in their flesh.   

SECT. VII.  
Of Onions, Garlic, Chibols, Leeks, Odoriferous Plants, and other Conveniences of a Garden, not comprehended in the Precedent Chapters.  
Onions. ONions are of three Colours, the White, the Pale, and the Purplered: I say of three Colours, for I do not conceive them to be of three different Species, because they are so alike in taste: but I refer their qualities to the judgement of the Botanists.  
oweing. Besides your sowing of Onions with Parsley as I showed you before, you shall sow others upon a Bed apart, and when it is grown as big as a Hen's quill, you may transplant it in lines with a Dibber, that you may have them very fair.  
If you leave any upon the Bed where you sowed it, 'twill diminish, and rise out of the ground at the Season, sooner than that which you removed.  
Seeding. During the great Heat of Summer, it would run to seed, which you must prevent by treading upon the Spindle, which will stop its career, and make the Onion the fairer.  
Drying. Housing. When you find them out of the ground, and that the leaf is become very dry, as it uses to be in August, than you shall take them quite out of the earth, searching with your Spade for every small head, letting them dry upon the Bed, and afterward lay them up in some temperate place, and an air rather d●ie then moist.  
Seed. For the seed, you shall choose ●he fairest and biggest that you reserved, and when the Frosts are passed plant them in Ground very well soiled, and clear from stones, which is the mould thy best affect. For this you may make use of the hove, rilling the bed where you would set them: not long-ways but a thwart, and deep enough, then lay them in the bottom of the rills, half a foot distant and cover them by drawing the second trench and thus a third, and a fourth continuing the order till your bed be finished.  
When it is in seed 'tis very Subject to be overthrown by the wind by reason of its weight, and the weakness of th● spindle, which being easily bend or broken falls with the head to the ground, which rots the seed instead of ripening it, and therefore to remedy this, you shall rail the bed about (as I directed you concerning Salsifix) or else stake them from space to space, to which you shall tie them up, by four or five spindle's together bending them gently to the props if it be possible without breaking them.  
The stalks dry, and the head discovering the seed gives testimony of its maturity, and therefore you shall draw them up, and having cut off all their spindle's, you shall lay the heads a drying upon some cloth, separating that which falls out of itself upon the cloth, as the best conditioned: afterwards when it all is perfectly dry, rub the heads in your hands, and getting out as much as you can with patience and much drying.  
If you do not immediately rub it out, bind up the heads in bunches, and hang them up in your house, because they will both keep and augment in goodnesse taking them only as you have occasion.  
There is so great deceit in buying this seed, that I would advise you to use none but which is of your own growth, unless you have some intimate friend that will send you that which is excellent, to renew your store, for some Merchants sell it old, and so it can never prosper, or else they scald it to make it swell: To discover that which is good put a little into a Porringer of water, and let it infuse upon the hot Embers, and if it be good it will begin to Check and speer, if it do not, its worth nothing.  
Chibol. Chibolls of all sorts, from the greatest to the English-Cives, are to be planted in Cloves, four or five together, to make a tuft, in distance according to their bigness, they requiring no other care, then to be weeded and cleansed, and, if you will, a little dunged before the winter. Thus you may let them continue in their bed as long as you please, the plant continually improving by Off-s●ts which it will produce in abundance.  
Transplanting However it will be good at every three or four years' end to take it up, and plant it in another place, forasmuch as the ground is weary of bearing perpetually but one sort, and loses that quality which is most proper to the plant, rendering it languid and weak if it dwell on it too long.  
Garlic. ● Garlic is to be ordered like Onions, Planting. the best season is to plant it at the end of February. The time of bruising it, to make the spindle's knot, is about St. Peter's in june, and to pull it out of the ground, at St. Peter's in August, according to ●he old Gardiner's Adage. 
Sow at St. Peter's the first crop.  
Your Garlic at St. Peter's stop.  
And at St. Peter's take it up.   
Pulling. Housing. When you have amassed them together you shall let them dry in heaps upon the bed, and then in the cool of the morning bind them up with their own leaves, by Dozen, and there let them pass the Day in the hot sun, before you carry them in, hanging it to the beams of the Sieling to keep it dry.  
Eschalots, or (as the French call them) Appeties, being a species 'twixt an oniamd Garlic, and add a rare relish to a sauce, neither so rank as the one, nor so flat as the other) are to be ordered like Chibolls, Planting. planting the little Cloves, to make them greater, and in the month of August, you shall pull as many of them out of the ground as you desire to reserve, and hang them up as you did the Garlic.  
Leeks. Blanching. Leeks are to be planted like Onions, and transplanted in files with the dibber, as deep as may be, that you may have a great deal of White-stalke; nor should you fill the Trench till a little after, and that they be well grown, this will augmeut their blanching. But besides this there is another way, and that is when they have done growing, to lay them in the rill one upon another, leaving only the very extremities of their leaves out of ground, and thus what is covered will become white, and this does much lengthen the plant, one such Leek being as good as two others.  
Seeds. For the seed, reserve of the fairest and longest to Transplant in the Spring: and when they are run up, environ them with supporters and Palisades as you do Onions to preserve their heads from falling to the ground.  
When they are ripe, cut them off ●rie, and reserve them in bunches, or otherwise as you did the Onions.  
Herbs Odi●●sant. Sweet and Odoriferant Herbs, and what other you ought principaly to furnish your Garden withal as are proper for Salads, and for the service of the Kitchen, omitting the rest at your own pleasuure, such as are Southen-wood, Hyssop, Cassidonia: ●aulme, Camomile, Rue, and others. We will here discourse of such only as you ought of necessity be provided.  
Salad. For Salads, Balm, Tarragon, Sampire, Garden-Cresses, Corne-Sallet, Pimpinell, Trippe-Madame, are such as we do ordinarily use together with those which I have described in the foregoing Sections▪ that salad being most agreeable, which is composed with the greatest variety of Herbs.  
Some of these Herbs are to be sown, and others to be planted in roots and though they all for the most part bear seed, yet none so effectually as the rooted plants.  
Corn salad. Pimpinel. Cress. Those which you are to sow are the Corne-Salad, Pimpinel, and Cresses, the rest are to be planted in roots● all of them pass the Winter in the ground without prejudice. And you may leave them as long as you please in the Beds where you sowed and planted them; without any▪ farther trouble then to weed them and now and then dig up and cleanse the paths lest the weeds ocome them.  
The rest which you gather for the Kitchen, are Thyme, Savory, Margerum and Sage, of both sorts, and Rosemary; all which plants are easy to be raised, and sufficiently furnish you.  
Licoris. We will not omit Licoris, to gratify such as make use of it in their P●isans: but if you plant it in your Garden, Place it in some quarter where it may not prejudice it, for if it like the ground, it will S●ring and go a great deal deeper than the very Couch or Dog-Grasse, and put you to a world of difficulty to come at it in case you should resolve to extirpate it entirely.  
There grows as good in all places of France, as any that they transport out of Spain.  
Planting To furnish yourself with this take rooted plants, and lay them half a foot in ground, it will need no other labour to make it thrive, but to preserve it well weeded and cleansed by stirring up the earth.  
Time. Thyme is both sown and planted; One Thyme tuft will afford many slips, which you may set with the setting-stick, as you do all sorts of cuttings.  
Savory. Savory is every year to be sown, and therefore be careful to reserve the seeds, and the Herb also being dried, to serve in divers seasonings.  
Marjoram Of Marjoram there is the sweet, and the Pot-Marjoram. The first sort is very t●nder in Winter, and therefore the Seeds thereof should be carefully preserved, to sow of it every year: The Winter or Pot-Marjoram (which is a bigger kind) may be perpetuated where you please.  
Sage. Garden and Bastard-Sage grows well of slips or branches cleft off with Roots from the main Stems.  
Rosemary. Rosemary is also planted of slips, and roots split from the old stock.  
Fenell. Sweet-Fenell and Anis, which are plants to be sown and governed without much difficulty, are not to be forgotten in your Garden.  
Satisfy yourself therefore with these few instructions which I have given of odiriferous plants: The apprehensions I have of swelling our Volume has caused me to pass them so lightly over. There now only remains to conclude this Treatise the addition of some Plants and Shrubs which bear fruit, highly necessary to accomplish your Garden.  
Strawberries. Strawberries are of four kinds. The White, the Large Red, the Capprons, and the small red wild Strawberry.  
Plan●. Concerning these last sort which are the small, you need not put yourself to the trouble of cultivateing them, if you dwell near the Woods, where they abound; for the Children of every Village will bring them to you for a very small reward: And in case you be far from these pretty Sweets, you may furnish some small carpets of them on the sides of some of your Alleys without other care or pains then to plant them, sending for such as are in little sods from the places which naturally produce them, or else you may sow them, by casting the water wherein you wash the strawberries before you eat them, upon the foresaid Beds.  
〈◊〉. For the great white straberies, the red, and C●aprons you shall plant in Borders, four ranges in a border or Low-bed, which must have a path between, of a foot and half at least: The best plants are such as you take from the strings which they make during all the Summer, and to put three plants in every hole which you shall make with the dibber. Season. The best season, is to plant them in August, when their strings are lusty, and have taken roots by their joints, forming a small plant at every knot.  
Proping. To order them well you must dress, weed and loosen the mould about them very diligently, and to have fair and clear Fruit you shall stick a small prop to every plant, to which you shall bind their stalks with a straw and by this means, besides that your fruit will prove much fairer, Snails, Toads, Frogs, and other noxious animals will forsak●● them, for want of covertures, which they would not do if the whole plant lay upon the ground, where they fail not to eat ago●dpart of them, ever attaining the fairest.  
〈◊〉 When your Strawberries shoot their strings, you must castrate them and leave them none but such as you reserve to ●urnish you with plants.  
Renewing And you shall every year renew some of your 〈…〉 such as are above four of five years old, as beginning then to impair of their goodness and virtue.  
Dressing. It will be convenient to strew them over with some Melon-bed dung, a little before the great frosts, which will much improve them, cutting off all their leaves, as I taught you concerning Sorrell.  
Soyl. The Soil which they most affect is rather a sandy than a stiff, and therefore you shall make choice of that part in your Garden for them which most approaches this mixture.  
Strawberries in Autumn. If you desire to have strawberries in Autumn, you shall only cut off the first blossoms which they put forth, and hinder their fructifying, they will not fail of blowing anew afterwards, and produce their fruit in the latter season.  
Raspis. Raspis are of two Colours, the White and the Red: You must plant 〈◊〉 which you may split off into many from a good stem: They are to be planted four fingers distant from one another in an open trench as deep as your spadebit, as I have described it in my discourse of a Nursery, whither I refer you for more brevity.  
Pruning. Besides the former labours, they will only require that you free them of their dead wood, and clear them of the suckers which they shoot up in the paths between their ranges: But if you perceive that notwithstanding all this, they spring too fast as to endanger their choking, you shall succour them by pruning off the new sets, and sparing the old, as the most ingenuous and fruitful.  
Goosber●ies. Of Gooseberries there are two kinds, the great-large and the small white ones which are thorny and full of prickles: Others Red, White, and Perled, without Prickles, which in Normandy they call G●delles.  
They are all of them to be Planted, and governed like Raspis, and therefore I proceed no farther.  
Champignon. Choice. Champignons, and all other kinds resembling them to which the Italians give the common Apellative of Fongi, we distinguish in our language, naming some of them Mushrooms of the Woods, which rests, and are very large. And are such as grow by the borders and skirts of great For-Mushroms of the Meadews, and sweet Pastures, which are such as grow frequently where the cattle feeds, and seldom flourish till after the first fogs of Autumn are past. These last are those which I Esteem the best of all, as well because of their beauties and whiteness above, as for their Vermilion beneath, add to this their agreeable scent, which are wanting in the other. The Garden Mushrooms which are ordinarily grow upon the beds, and those which do not appear before the beginning of May, hid under the moss in the woods from whence they seem to derive their name of Moush, or Mousserons.  
Bed Mushram. Dressing. Of all these species there is only the Bed-mushrums which you can produce in your Garden, and to effect this, you must prepare a bed of Mules or Ass' soil, covering it over four fingers thick with short and rich dung and when the great heat of the bed is qualified, you must cast upon it all the parings and falls of such Mushrums as have been dressed in your Kichen, together with the Water wherein they were washed as also such as are old and wormeaten, and a bed thus prepared will produce you very good, and in short space. The same bed may serve you two or three years and will much assist you in making another.  
Production. If you pour of this water upon your Melon beds, they may likewise furnish you with some. But I had almost forgotten to inform you, that there are certain stones, which being placed in the dunghill, have the virtue to produce them in a little time, and that there are some curious persons which have of these stones, to whose better experience I recommend you.  
Morrille● Concerning Morilles, and Truffs: the first whereof is a certain delicate red Mushrum, and the other an incomparable kind of round ru●●et excressence which grows in dry ground, without any stalk, leaf, or fibers to it, and therefore used to be found out by a hog, kept and trained up in the mystery: there are but very few places which do naturally produce them.  
Conclusion. And thus I presume to have sufficiently instructed you, in all things which are necessary to be cultivated in Gardens; at the least; what is commonly eaten and in request in our Parisien France. Other Provinces have other plants, the spoils whereof they afford us so good cheap, that it is not worth the while to husband them: as for Instance, Capers, etc. not but that they prosper very well in these parts; but they are troublesome and require a large compass, for a small crop, flourishing better amongst the stones of some ancient Ruin, then in any other place: 'tis too great a subjection to gather their blossoms, and to Pickle them in Salt, and would cost you more than you may buy them for of the Oyl-men  
Let us Conclude this discourse then, and hasten to show you how the fruits of the Garden are to be Conserved in their Natural, according to the precedent Sections and Articles, as your Fruit, your Herbs and your Pulses are disciplined in the two former Treatises.    

 
AN APPENDIX TO THE Former Treatises.  

SECT. I.  
Of the Manner how to conserve Fruits in their Natural.  
Conserving of Fruits in their Natural. Raspis. THere is nothing which doth more lively concern the Senses then in the depth of Winter to behold the Fruits so fair, and so good, yea better, then when you first did gather them, and that then, when the Trees seem to be dead, and have lost all their verdure, and the rigour of the Cold to have so despoiled your Garden of all that embellished it, that it appears rather a Desert then a Paradise of Delices': than it is (I say) that you will taste your fruit with infinite more gust and contentment, then in the Summer itself, when their great abundance, and rarity, rather cloy you then become agreeable. For this reason therefore it is, that we will essay to teach you the most expedite, and certain means how to conserve them all the Winter, even so long, as till the New shall incite you to quit the Old. For it is just with Fruits as it is with Wines: those which we drink first are the more delicate and juicy; and those which we reserve for the latter part of the year are more firm and lasting: both excellent in their Season: But so soon as the New are made, and fit to pierce, we abandon the old, which we before esteemed so agreeable. In like manner it is, so soon as the new Fruits approach to their maturity, we forsake those of the year past; and one dish of Strawberries, or Cherries, (though never so green) or forward Pears, shall be preferred to the best, and fairest Bon-Chrestien which you can produce.  
Conservatory. Fabric. Situation To pursue then our first intention. It will be necessary to choose some place in your house the most commodious to make your Reservatory or store-house, which should have the windows and overtures narrow to prevent the extremity both of heat and the cold: these you shall always keep shut, and so secured from the air as only to afford you a moderate light, which you shall also banish by closing the wooden shutters when you go out: And indeed were there none at all, and that the door to it were very strait, and low, it would be the better keeping it shut so soon as ever you are entered.  
Such a place designed for your store, you shall build shelves about, and (if the room be capable of it) that the middle be to lay fruit in heaps, such as are the most common and destined for the Servants, and if it be not wide enough, it shall suffice to shelve it three parts and leave the fourth for the heaps.  
Shelving. Let your shelves be laid upon brackets of wood or Iron very strong because of their charge: two of them side by side, two foot broad: Which you must ledg with a small Lath, to keep the fruit from rolling and falling off: but let-none of these shelves be within a yard of the floor, that you may place the best rare fruit under them, seperateing and distinguishing them according to their kinds: but you may continue the shelves upward to the very Ceiling placing them about nine or ten-inches asunder. And for the more convenience you should have a small light frame of steps by which you ascend and reach to the uppermost shelf, when you would visit your fruit: a ladder being nothing so convenient, wearying the feet, and more subject to fall.  
Season of Gathering fruit. The season of Gathering your winter-fruits being come, which you shall discover by many indications, as when they begin to drop off themselves, which commonly happens after the first reins of Autumn, when the Tree being sobbed and wet, swells the wood, and loosens, the fruit: Or when the first frosts advertise you that it is time to lay them up: or (to be more certain) at the decrease of the Moon in October (thus for the Pears and Apples) beginning to gather the softest first, and finishing with the harder, that they may have the more time to perfect their maturity.  
There are some fruits that are only to be eaten ripe as the Gros●enil-pear 
* A kind of hip, a ●ound red berry, Cor●●es is a fruit fashioned like a pear and to be rotten like a Medlar.  Cor●nes, 
Pear.  Services, Azerolls, and the like, which you shall leave upon the Tree till you perceive by their falling in great numbers, they admonish you to gather them.  
Medlars are to be gathered about St. Luke's, according to the proverb.  
Medlars. Baskets. When you gather your Fruits, you should be provided with strong osier Baskets, to be born full betwixt two men, and you shall put a little straw at the bottom, lest the weight of the uppermost bruise the undermost against the basket.  
Fallen fruit. You shall as you gather your fruits separate the fairest and biggest from the middling and such as are fallen off themselves, or as you have thrown down in gathering the others, putting each sort in a b●●ket apart: I speak not here of the smallest and the crumplings, for I suppose you discharged your Trees of them before, so soon as you perceived that they did not thrive, to give the more nourishment to the rest. The wormeaten Apples should be put also amongst those which are fallen to be spent first.  
Housing. As fast as you gather your fruits, you shall carry them into your store-house, and range them upon your shelves so as they may not touch one another, putting ● little straw all under them, and in like manner distinguishing the fairest and biggest from the lesser upon several shelves and heaping up the worm ●en and fallen, as I but now directed you.  
Bon-Chresten As ●ouching the Bon Chrestien Pears, they are more curiously to be gathered then the rest, for the stalks of such as are very fair and well coloured, red at one side and yellow at the other, should be sealed with Spanish wax to preserve their sap from evaporating: this done, wrap them up in dry paters and put them in a Bushel or a Box well covered, that they may grow t●wny and mature being thus shut up.  
You shall Practise the same upon the Double-f●owere Pear, the Cadillace, the Thoul, and others which are graffed upon the Quince, and which receive their colour from the Tree: For as for those as are graffed upon the Pear-stock, they commonly continue Green; and therefore without any farther trouble, you need only range them upon the shelves, as you did the rest.  
Cabinet. Those that are very curious have a Cupboard which shuts very close, in which they reserve their Bonne Chrestiens: This Cupboard is furnished with shelves, upon every of which are fastened small quarters of wood, which are laid cross like a grate, every square near as big as the greatest Pear. Upon each of these s●uares they lay a Pear by itself, for fear lest they should touch; and that if any of them should be perished, it do not in●ect its neighbour. This Cupboard they keep very close, pasting pieces of Paper about the Keyholes, to keep out the air, and never open it, save when they would take our fruit, and this closing them up does give them a most excellent colour: but before they thus shut them up, ● they leave the Pears five or six days in the Baskets, wherein they were brought out of the Orchard, that they may have time to sweat.  
Ripe fruit. Those Fruits which are to be leaten ripe, should be laid in heaps, and if they do not mellow fast enough to your desire, you shall put them into a Wheat-Sack, and shall jumble them together betwixt two, this Concussion one against the other will exceedingly advance their maturity.  
Grapes. Your Muscat grapes of all colours, as the Chasselats, Bicane, and Rochel Grapes, or others more ordinary, are to be preserved several ways, either singly ranging them upon straw o● h●nging them in Sieves up to the Ceiling, covering them over with paper to guard them from the dust, or barrelling them up with Oat-Chaff or in a tub of Ashes, or which is best, hanging them by their ends (not stalks) in your forementioned Cub-board.  
To keep them. I pretermit several o●her curious ways of keeping Grapes, as when they are in Flower to put the Clusters into a Glasse-Violl, and when it is Ripe cut it from the Vine, and seal up the stalk, but it must so hang as that none of them touch the ●ide of the Glass, and then close the mouth of it with soft wax, to keep out the Air, this will preserve the Chister till Christmas.  
There are divers other means, which I omit because they are altogether unprofitable, troublesome, and expensive.  
and though I have not before taught you how you may store yourself with these Muscat-Grapes of all Colours, it is not out of ignorance, for I am abundantly furnished withthem; But because it is a plant which is to be governed like the other Vines, I refer it to my Vignerous, who have from their Youth been accustomed to the ordering of Vines, their experience instructing them in those necessary subjections which a Gardener would never observe, with so many precautions as they are obliged to do, especially in planting and pruning them, which are the only things I instrust them in, and am well satisfied.  
Vermine. I shall tell you upon this occasion, that all sorts of Flies, and Bees, Wasps, etc. Dormice, and Rats, are exceedingly liquorish of these grapes, when they are ripe, to prevent which you shall place some clove of Garlic half hid in several places upon the poles which support them, near the Clusters, and the very Sent thereof will chase them away.  
Aspect. The fullest aspect of the Meridian Sun, and shelter of some Wall, is the only place that the Muscat and Precoce Grape affects.  
Rotten fruit. Mice. Cats. To conclude this Section, I will advise you to visit your Conservatory often, that in case you find any of the Fruits rotten, you take them away; for they spoil all that they touch: but if you perceive any one that the Mice have begun, stir it not from the place; for as long as any of that single Fruit remains, they will never attaque another: In the mean time set a Trap to catch them, for to let Cats in, they will disorder your Fruit, and leave their Ordure amongst the heaps, and upon the Shelves.   

SECT. II.  
Of Dried Fruits.  
Dried fruit. THere are divers Fruits that we dry in Ovens, which in hotter Countries they dry in the Sun, as in Provence the Prunella's, in Langvedoc Raisins of the Sun; but since the Cold of our Climate obliges us to make use of the Oven, I will here describe in particular, how each of them ought to be dried.  
Cherries. Beginning then with Cherries, White, Hearts, and the Preserving Cherries, as with the first which the Season prescribes us. Choose such as are very ripe, fair, fresh, and not bruised: you shall spread them upon Lattices, or Hurdles made of wicker, ranging them one by another, as handsomely as you can, without suffering them to lie one upon another, with their Stones and stalks than put them into the Oven which must be of a temperate heat. Such as it usually is after the household bread is drawn. and then leaving them as long as any heat remains, you shall take them forth turn them, to the end they may perfectly dry: after this you shall heat the Oven again, putting them in, and repeating this course till they are sufficiently dried to be kept, then let them cool in heaps a whole day, and afterwards binding them up in small bunches, reserve them in great 
* They call them in F●ance Bushel. boxes, being of that shape and containing about hal● a Bushel.  round Boxes tightly shut.  
Plum. Plums are to be dried like Cherries very ripe gathered, the best for this purpose are such as are fallen off the Trees, for they are most fleshy, and will be more agreeable to eat then those which you shall gather, which retain always some verdure upon them.  
The very best to dry are to be chosen, as the Imperial, Date, and St. Catherine, Diaper, Perdrigon, Cytrout, 〈◊〉 Mirabolan, Roche-Corbon, Damasks of all sorts, and the St. julian for ordinary spending.  
Prunellas. If you desire to counterfeit Prunellas, you must make choice of the fairest of your Plums, as the Perdrigon, the Abricotplum, 
* Moyen d● oeuf, a Plum so called.  Egg-yolk, Brignolles or others, which have a white skin, pee●e them without a knife, drawing them by the skin which will easily quit the plum, if it be throughly ripe, than stone them without breaking the fruit, as I shall hereafter instruct you when I speak of Apricots. Boil the skins well with a little water, and strain it through a cloth, and in this juice (which be in the consistence of a Syrup infuse your plums as often as you set them into the Oven, flatting them every time: If your Liquor be not thick enough, you shall add to it the juice of White Corrinths, very ripe, which will render your Syrup sufficiently thick. You may also (if you please) add some Sugar to them, they will be excellent, and require less drying.  
The Provençals instead of setting them in the Oven, stick them upon Thorn branches, one upon each Thorn, and so leave them to dry in the Sun.  
Peaches. Peaches are to be ordered after the same manner as Plums, excepting that they must be gathered from the Tree; for those which fall, besides that they are over-ripe, they will have such Bruises as will hinder their drying, without great trouble, and will be very disagreeable to the taste: Before you stone them, you shall set them once into the Oven to mortify them: afterwards you shall slit them neatly with a Knife, and take out the Stone; then open and flat them upon some Table, that when you set them in the Oven, they may dry as well within as without, by reason of their great thickness; & the last time you draw them out of the Oven, whilst they are yet hot, close them again, & flatten them, to reduce them to their natural shape.  
Apricots. Apricots are also to be gathered ripe from the Tree, you need not open them, to take out their S●ones, but thrust them out dextrously, near the Stalk: neither in drying them need you open them like Peaches; but leave them whole, and only flatting them, that they may dry equally in every part, and be the more commodiously ranged in the Boxes.  
If you desire to have them excellent, put a Pill of Sugar about the quantity of a P●a, in the place of the Stone; and fill an earthen Milk-tray, covering it with a lid of Paste closed thereto: then set it in the Oven, as soon as the Bread hath taken colour, and there let it remain till it be cold: after which you shall set it in the Stove upon slatses, as they dry Sweetmeats; and when they are sufficiently dry to keep, whilst yet warm, strew some finely seared Sugar upon them, and leave them two days before you set them up.  
Pear●▪ Pears are to be dried pared and unpared, in the same manner as I showed you before: but being pared they are much more delicate, and the Parings are to be used, to infuse in the Liquor, as I taught you in Plums. You must leave their Stalks, and the crown when you pair them, choosing such Fruit as is the fairest, most delicate, and full of Flavour, as the Orange, Summer Bon-Chrestien, Muscadel, Great M●scat-Pear, the Rousset, & a hundred others as rare.  
You shall put of these likewise in earthen Pans, with their Skins upon the Fruit, before you cover them with Paste, thus dry, and strew them as you did your Apricots.  
The Pear is not to be gathered over ripe, for that will render it too flashy.  
In Grape-time, you may infuse the parings in new White Wine instead of water, or in Cyder-time in new Perry made without water.  
Apples. Apples are commonly dried without paring them, and are to be slit in the midst, taking out the Core: some of them you may boil for Liquor to s●ak those in which you intent to dry.  
Grapes. Grapes of all sorts, Muscadine and others, are to be dried in the Oven, upon the Hurdle, without farther trouble then only to dry them in a temperate heat, and turn them frequently, that they dr●● equally. Those of Languedoc pass them through a 
* 〈◊〉 preserve them from worms  Lie before they dry them in the Sun.  
Beanes. Amongst dry Fruits I will also range green Beans, which being well dressed with a little Winter Savory dried (the true seasoning of Beans) may pass for new.  
To dry them, you shall take those that are tender, which have yet their 
* In which the beaviss are involved.  Skins green, before they are white; take off this Coat (that is, peel them) then dry them in the Sun upon papers, often turning them daily, at Evening bring them in, and expose them again to the Sun every day, till you find them very dry, which will soon be, if it be not close weather: being dry, you may keep them covered in Boxes, carefully preserving them from all moisture.  
Before you boil them, you must lay them in soak for the space of half a day in warm water.  
Pease. For green Pease choose the youngest, which shailed out of their ●ods, dry as you did the Beans, and infuse them likewise in warm water before you boil them, adding to the liquor, a handful of the leaves of new Pease, if you have any green, tying them in a Bunch, lest they mingle with your Pease.  
Mushroom Morilles and Mushrums are to be filled on a Thread, and hung up in some hot place, as over an O●en, where they will easily dry; or if the place be commodious for it, before the Fire, or set into the Oven itself temperately warm.   

SECT. III.  
To pickle Fruits with Salt and vinegar.  
Pickling cucumbers. CUcumbers are the biggest Garden Fruit which we use to pickle, they are to be chosen very small, (which they call Cornets or Gerkins, because we choose those which resemble little crooked hor●s, and that do not improve) or else somewhat bigger, but very young, before their seeds be hard, which are nothing so pleasant to eat: These are to be pickled pared, or whole; but it is best to pair them before you put them in pickle then afterwards; because of the loss of your Salt and Vinegar upon the Skin, which will become so hard, as scarcely to be eaten: But they are handsomer and whiter, being pared at that instant when you serve them to the Table, than such as you pair before they be pickled: so that you may do which of them you please.  
The other small horned Cucumbers are to be pickled without paring, by reason of the delicateness of their skin.  
Cathering You must gather very early in a fair morning, and let them lie all the rest of the day in the Sun to mortify them a little, that they may the better receive in the Salt.  
Put the pared, the unpared, and the Ge●kins, each of them in well glazed earthen Pots apart (for those that are unglazed, crumble and moulder away, by reason of the Salt which does penetrate them, and so lose their Pickle) ranging them handsomely, and crowding them as near as you can to one another, without bruising: than you shall strew a good quantity of Salt upon them, and the Vinegar afterwards, tilf the uppermost of all are well covered; otherwise there will breed a mouldiness that will spoil all that remain bare. Thus set them up in a temperate place, and touch them not at least in six weeks, that they may be perfectly pickled. Your Storehouse will be the most convenient place to keep them in.  
〈◊〉. Let the Purslain which you would pickle be of tha● which you have transplanted, that it may be the fairer. The true season to gather it is, when it begins to flower, if you would have that which is tender: for if you omit it till it be out of flower, that you may save the Seed, (as it is commonly sold) it will be too hard to eat. Let it also be dried and mortified in the Sun, two or three days, and then range it in glazed Pots with Vinegar and Salt as you did the Cucumbers.  
C●pers Broom-b●ds. Sampiere. Tarragon. Capers, Broom-buds, Sampire, Tarragon and the like, are to be pickled after the same manner as above.  
Artichoks. Bottoms of Artichock● are to be pickled in Salt, but after another Method than the former; for they must first be above half-boiled, and when they are cold, and well drained of their water, which should likewise be dried with a cloth to take out all their humidity, range them in Pots, and pour Brine upon them, as strong as it can possibly be made; which is done by putting into it so much Salt, as till it will no longer imbibe, & that the Salt precipitates to the bottom whole and without melting. This we call Marinated water.  
Upon this water (which will cover your Artichokes) you must pour Sweet Butter melted, to the eminence of two fingers, that you may thereby exclude the Air; then the Butter being cold, set up the Pot with your Cucumbers, or in some other temperate place, covered and well secured from the Cats & the mice, which else will make bold to visit your Better.  
But I presume that before you put the Artichoks in the Pot, you did prepare them as you would have done to serve them to the Table, that is, taken off all the leaves and the Chocke which is within.  
Time. The true season for this is in Autumn, when (practising what I taught you before in the second Treatise in the Chapter of Artichokes) your Plants produce those which are young and tender, for they are these which you should take to pickle, before they come to open and flower, but yet not till their heads are well form and hard.  
When you would eat of them, you must extract their saltness by often shifting the water, and boil them once again before you serve them to the Table.  
Asparagus Peas. Champignons'. Asparagus, Peas without Cod, Morilles, Champignons, or Mushrums, are also to be pickled in salt, (having first parboiled them, & prepared every sort in its kind) af●●r the same manner that you did Artichoks.  
Visit your pots. You shall monthly be sure to visit your Pots, that in case you perceive any of them Mouldy, or to have lost their pickle, you may according repair it.  
Cornelians. I have some years since invented the pickling of Cornelians, and have frequently made them pass for Olives of Veronna, with divers persons who have been deceived, their colour so resembling them, and their taste so little different. To effect this, I cause the fairest and biggest to be gathered when first then would begin to blush, & then letting them lie a while, I Pot or Barrel them up, filling them with brine, just as I do Artichokes, and to render them odoriferous, adding a little branch of green Fenel, & a few Bay-leaves: then closing the vessel well, touch it not for a month after. If you find them too salt, dilute & abate the pickle before you serve them to the Table.   

SECT. IV.  
To preserve fruit with Wine in the Must, in Cider, or in Hony.  
To Preserve fruit with Wine Cider. honey. ALl sorts of Fruits which may be preserved in Sugar, may also be preserved in Must, in Cider, or in Honey. And there is no other dfficulty in making choice of fruits to scald and preserve this way, then in choosing such as you would preserve in Sugar.  
In Must. To describe in this place the principal rules which must of necessity be observed in preserving fruit in the Must or new Wine; You shall take▪ three pails full, three pots, or 3 parts of must, according to the quantity of fruit which you intent to preserve: set it in a Kettle or Skillet on the fire, but with care, that if your fire be of wood, the flame being too great do not burn some side of the vessel. Then let your must continue boiling till it be reduced to one third part, that it may be of fitting consistence to preserve your fruit in, sufficiently, & keep it from moulding & spoiling.  
The fruits being pared or unpared, according to their natures or your curiosity, those which ought to be scalded being done, well drained, and dried from their water, are to be put and preserved in this Must carefully scummed, and made to ●oyl till you perceive that the Syrup is of a sufficient consistence, which you shall know by dropping some of it on a plate, if it appear in stiff Rubies & run not about, the plate a little inclining.  
You cannot take your Must too new, & therefore, as soon as you perceive the grapes very ripe, tread them immediately, and take of that must as much as will serve, white or re●, according to the fruit you would preserve. Some fruits as the Quince, the Pear, & the Blue grape, etc. require Must of blue grapes, others of white, as Walnuts, the Muscat-grape & the like, whose candour and whiteness you desire to preserve.  
To heighten the taste of those fruits which you ought to preserve in red-Wine, put in a little Cinnamon and Cloves tied up in a button of Lawn that they may not be dispersed amongst the preserus, lost or consumed in the Syrup, and to those which require white wine, a bunch of green Fenel bound up likewise in a cloth.  
Marmalade of Grapes or Raisins▪ Codiniack, or Marmalade of Grapes is made of the fairest, & ripest blue grapes, gathered in the afternoon at the heat of the day, to the end that their moisture may be entirely dried up: Lay them in some lost of your house, where both the ay● & the Sun have free intercourse, spreading them upon Tables or Hurdles, that, for at the leas● a fortnight, they may there sweat & shrink: In case the weather prove cloudy, or that the season prove cold, you may set them in your O●en temperately warm, after which press them well with your hands, cleansing them from all their seeds and stalks, putting the husks and juice to boil in the kettle, & diligently scumming and clearing it from the seeds: Reduce this liquor also to a third part, diminishing the fire, according as your con●ection thickens, and stirring it often about with your spatule or spoon to prevent its cleaving to the vessel, 
Gas●be an instrument made like an Oar.  and that it may boil equally. Being thus prepared, you shall percolat it through a Sieve or course cloth, bruising the husks with your wooden Ladle, the better to express out the substance, and besides, you shall wring it forth, or squeeze it in a press: when this is done, set it again on the fire, & boil it once more keeping it continually stirring till you conceive it to be sufficiently boiled, then taking it off, pour it into Earthen-pans, to prevent its contracting any ill smack from the kettle, and being half cold, put it into Galley-pots, to keep.  
Potting. You shall let your pots stand open five or six days, and then cover them with paper so fitted as to lie upon the very preserve within the pot, and when visiting your pots, you find that any of your paper is mouldy, take it away and apply another, this do as long as you shall see cause, which will be until such time as all the superfluous humidity be evaporated, for then the mouldiness will vanish unless your confection was not sufficiently boiled, in which case it must be boiled again, and then you may cover them for altogether.  
M●stard de Dijon. To make Mustard a la mode de Dijon, you shalf only take of this Codiniack and put to it store of Seneve or Mustardseed well bruised in a mortar with water, & finely seared, and when it is tightly mixed together, quench therein some live coals, to extract all the bitterness from the se●d, than either barrel or pot it up, well closed, and reserved for use.  
You may also preserve all sorts of fruit in Perry that has not been diluted, reducing it in boiling also to a third part, as we showed you in the Must. Lastly.  
In Hony. To preserve in Honey, you shall take that which is most thick, hard and most resembling Sugar, boiling it in a preserving Pan, scumming it exactly, & stirring it about to prevent its burning. You shall discover if it be enough boiled, by putting into it a Hen● egg, if it sink, it is not yet enough, if it float, it is of sufficient consistence to preserve your Fruits: You know that Honey is very subject to burn, & therefore finish this preparation upon a gentle fire, frequently stirring the bottom of your pan with the spatule to prevent this accident.    
FINIS.   

Table of the principal matters contained in this Bo●k.  

The First Treatise.  

§ I. Of the Place, of the Earth, and mould of the Garden, together with the means to recover, and meliorate ill ground.  
S●te Pag. 1  
Soil. 2  
Dressing. 3  
Skreening. 8   

§. II. Of Espaliers or wall-fruit, and of single Pole-hedges, and Shrubs.  
PLanting. 12  
Pole Hedges. 18  
Shrubs. 19   

§. III. Of Trees, and of the Choice wh●ch aught to be made of them.  
PEars. Apples. Peaches. Apricots. 2●▪ 24  
Cherries. 25  
Age. 26  
Shape. Taking up. 27  
Transporting. Transplanting. 28  
Pruning. 29  
Nailing. Spreading. Error. 34  
Dressing. 36  
Old Trees. 37   

§. IV. Of the Seminary and Nursery.  
SEminary. 38  
Seeds. Kernels. Stones. 39  
Seedplot. 40  
Cut●ing. 41  
Graffing. 42  
Quince-stocks. Peaches. 44  
Dressing. 45  
Nursery. Plot. 46  
Planting. 47  
Trees. 48  
Nipping. Pruning. 51  
Distance. Form. 52   

§. V. Concerning Graffs, and the Best directions how to choose them.  
GRaffing. 54  
Inoculating. Season. 55  
Choice. 56  
Time. Cleft. Choice. 57   

§. VI The manner how to graft. p. 59  
INoculating. 60  
Season. 62  
Cleft. 65  
Crown. 70  
Approach. 71  
Cutting. Layers. 73   

§. VII. Of Trees, and Shrubs in particular, how they are to be governed, and their Maladies cured.  
TRees. 75  
Pears. Graffing▪ 76  
Appletrees. 79  
Plum. 80  
Apricots. Peaches. 81  
Cherries. 80  
Figs. 84  
Mulberries. 86  
Oranges. Limmons. 87  
Shrubs. 89  
Granads. 9●  
Jassemine. 91  
Musk-Rose. Myrtles. Laurels. 92  
Phylyrea. Alaternus. Althaea frutex. Arbour Judae. Lilac. Diseases. 94  
Moss. 95  
Jaundice. 97  
Moles. 98  
Mice. 100  
Worms. 101  
Pismires. 102  
Snails. 103  
Wood-lice. Earwigs. Caterpillars. 104  
Composition to hood Graffs withal. 105  
To make fruit knot. 106  
A Catalogue of the names of Fruits known about Paris, and when they are in Season. 108    

The Second Treatise.  

§▪ I. Of Melons, Cucumbers, Gourds, and their kinds.  
MElons. 135  
Seeds. 136  
Plot. 117  
Figure. 138  
Season. Beds. 139  
Sowing. 140  
Governing. 142  
Season. Transplanting. 143  
Storms. ●ells. Pruning. 145  
Transplanting. 147  
Season. Transplanting. 148  
Watering. Gathering. 149  
Visiting. Care. 151  
Choice. Seeds. Cucumbers. 152  
Pumpeons. Transplanting. Gathering. 154  
Seed. 156   

§ II. Of Artichokes, Chardons, and Asparagus.  
Artichokes. Planting. 157  
Earthing. 159  
Chard. 160  
Slips. Gathering. 161  
Spanish-Chardon. Asparagus. 162  
Planting. 163  
Dressing. 164  
Cutting. 165   

§. III. Of Cabbages, and Lettuce of all sorts.  
CAbbage. 166  
Seed. Coleflowers. 167  
Sowing. 168  
Removing. 170  
Transplanting. 171  
Cabbage. Watering. Sowing. Birds. 172  
Worms. 173  
Large sided Cabbage. 174  
White Cabbage. 175  
Red. Perfumed. Cabbage. 176  
Planting. 176  
Seed. 178  
Season of sowing. Infects. 180  
Lettuce. Sowing. 182  
Transplanting. 183  
Roman Lettuce. Heading. 184  
Blanching. Seed. 185   

§ VI▪ Of Roots.  
ROots. Parsneps. 186  
Sowing. 188  
Removing. Housing. 189  
Seed. Carrots. 190  
Season. Seed. 191  
Salsifix. 192  
Dressing. Season. 193  
Seed. 194  
Radishes. Horse-Radishes. Seed. 195  
Small Radish. Sowing. 196  
Seed. Turnips. 197  
Season. Vermine. 198  
Housing. Seed. Parsly. Season. 199  
●re●●ing. 200  
Roots. Seed. Skirret. 201  
Spending. Rampions. Jerusalem Artichokes. Seed. 202  
Dangers. 203   

§ V. Of all sorts of Potherbs.  
BEet-Leeks. 203  
Season. Transplanting. 204  
Gathering. Sowing. Beets Red. Seed. 206  
Orache. Succory. Season. 207  
Blanching. 208  
Housing. 210  
Seed. 211  
Endive. Blanching. Housing. Sorrell. 212  
Sowing. Transplanting. 214  
Dressing. Seed. 215  
Patience. borage. Sowing. 216  
Seed. bugloss. Chervill. 217  
Seed. Sowing. 218  
Seed. Allisaunders. Sceleri. Sowing. P●rslain. 219  
Sowing. Transplanting. 220  
Seed. Spinach. 221  
Sowing. Season. Seed. 222   

§ VI Of Beans, Peas, and other Pulse.  
BEans. 223  
Sowing. Choice. 224  
Ground. 225  
Hoving. 226  
Gathering. Seed. Hame. 227  
Haricots. Sowing. 228  
Painted Beans. Soyl. Soweing. 229  
White Streaked Beans. 230  
Red Beans. Peas. 231  
Sowing. Hot-Spurrs. Soil. 232  
Soweing. Setting. 233  
Great Peas. Bushing. 234  
Mould. Distance. Beds. 235  
Gray-Peas. Small-peas. Soweing. 236  
Pigeons. Hoving. 237  
Monthly peas. Cutting. Watering. Lupins. 239  
Slave-peas. Soweing. Lentils. Mould. 240  
Thrashing. Housing. 24●   

§▪ VII. Of Onions, Garlic, Chibols Leeks, Odirif●r●●us Plants, and other conveniences of a Garden, not comprehended in the precedent Chapters.  
ONions. Sowing. 242  
Seeding. Drying. Housing. Seed. 243  
Chibols. Transplanting. 24●  
Garlic, Planting. Pulling. Housing. Eschalots. 247  
Planting. Leeks. Blanching. 248  
Seeds Odoriferant. 249  
Salad. Corne-Salad. Pimpinell. Cress. 250  
Licoris. Planting. 251  
Time. Savory. Ma●joram. Sage. 252  
Rosemary. Fenell. Strawberries. Plants. 25●  
Beds. Season. 254  
Propping. Stringing. Removing. 255  
Dressing. Soil. Strawberries in Autumn. Raspis. 256  
Pruning. Goosberries. 257  
Champignons. Choice. 258  
Mushrum-bed. Dressing. Production. 259  
Morills. Truffs. Conclusion. 260    

AN APPENDIX To the Former Treatise.  

● I. Of the Manner 〈◊〉 to 〈◊〉 Fruits in their Natural.  
COnserving fruit●. 263  
Consevatory. Fabric. Situation. 265  
shelving. 266  
Season of gathering fruit. 267  
Meddlers. B●●kets. Fallen fruit. 268  
Nousing. 〈◊〉- Chrestien. 269  
Cabinet. 270  
Ripe-fruit. Gr●pe●. 271  
Keeping. 272  
Vermin. 273  
Aspect. Rotten fruit▪ Mic●. Cat●. 274   

§. II. Of Dried Fruit●  
DRied-fruit●. 〈◊〉. ●75  
Plums. 276  
〈◊〉. 277  
Peaches. 278  
Apricots. 279  
Pear●. 280  
Apples. Grapes. Bea●s. 281  
Pea●. 282  
Mushrums. 283   

§ III. To pickle 〈◊〉 with Salt and vinegar.  
PI●kle Cucumbers. ●83  
Gathering. ●84  
Purslain. 285  
Capers. Broom-buds. Sampiere Tarragon. Artichokes. 286  
Season. 287  
Asparagus. Peas. Champigno●s. Pickle. C●rnelians. 288   

§ III. To preserve fruit With wine in the Must, in Cider, or Hony.  
IN Mu●●●9  
Marmalade of Grapes or 〈◊〉. 291  
Potting. Must●rd of Dijon. 293  
In Hony. 294     

Books printed for, and to be sold by john Crook, at the Sign of the Ship in St. Paul's Churchyard.  
Annals veteris Testamenti, à prima mundi Origine deduct●; unà cum rerum Afiaticarum, & Aegyptiacarum Chronoco, à temporis Historici principio usque ad Maccabaicarum initia producto: à viro Reverendissimo & doctissimo, jacobo Vsserio, Archiepiscopo Armachano. folio  
Ej●sdem Annalium pars secunda, quae ad annum Christi octogesimum producitur, ●nà cum harmonia Evangeliorum, ab exercitatissimo sacris Literis Doctore, johanne Richard sono Epischopo Ardachadensi Conscripta. folio  
Ejusdem de textus Hebraici veteri● Testamenti variantibus lectionibus ad Lodovicnm Capellum Epistola. quarto  
Vsserii de LXX Interpretum Versione Syntagma. quarto  
The Holy History; containing excellent observations, on all the remarkable passages and Histories of the Old Testament, with a vindication of the verity thereof from the Aspersions of Atheists and Antiscripturians. Written Originally in French, by the curious pen of Nicolas Cau●●●n▪ S. I. and now elegantly rendered into English out of the seventh and last Edition by a Person of Honour. 4●  
The Bishop of Derry's Victory of truth for the peace of the Church, in answer to Mounsieur Millitie●e. 8●  
— Of Liberty and Necessity, in answer to Mr. Hobbs. 8●  
— His replication to the Popish Bishop of Chalcedon, in defence of his vindication of the Church of England. 8●  
— His vindication of the Church of England from the aspersions of Schism cast upon it by the Papists. 8●  
Mountagues Miscellanea spiritualia, or devout Essays. The second part. 40  
The History of the ●ron Age: wherein is set down the Original of all the Wars and Commotions, that have happened from the year of God 1500. with the manner of their prosecution and Events, till the year 1656. Illustrated with the Figures of the most renowned persons of this pressent time. folio  
〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉, of drinking water, against our Novelists that prescribed it in England, by Richard Short, Doctor of Physic. Whereunto is added 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉, 〈◊〉 ●arm drink, and is an answer to a Treatise of warm drink, printed at Cambridge. 8●  
〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉, ●ive Introductorily A●glo-Latino-Graecum, complect●ns colloqui● fa●iliaria Aesopi febulas & Lu●i●●i, s●léctiores mortuorum Diologos, in usum Scholarum, per J. Sh. 8●  
The Life and Death of the most reverend and learned Father of our Church Dr. james Usher, late Archbishop of Armagh, and Primate of all Ireland, in a Sermon at his Funeral, at the Abbey of Westminster, April. 17th. 1656. by Nicholas Bernard, D. D. and Preacher to the Honourable Society of Gray's Inn, London. 8●  
The Judgement of the late Archbishop of Armagh and Primate of Ireland, of the extent of Christ's death and satisfaction, etc. of the Sabbath, and observation of the Lords day: of the Ordination in other reformed Churches, etc. by N. Ber●ard, D. D. and Preacher to the Honourable Society of Gray's Inn, London, 8●  
The Holy life of Mounsieur de Resty, a late Noble man of France, and Counsellor to K. Le●is XIII. written in French by john Baptist S. jure, and faithfully translated into English by E. S. Gent. ●●  
Castigations of Mr. Hobbes his last Animadversions, in the case concerning Liberty and universal Necessity, with an Appendix concerning the catching of Leviathan, or the great whale, ●y 〈◊〉 Bramball, D. D. and Bishop of D●●●y. 8●  
☞ The Annals of the Worl● 〈◊〉 from the Origin of time, and continued to the beginning of the Emperor Vespasians Reign, and the total destruction and abolition of the Temple and Commonwealth of the Jews, containing the History of the Old and New Testament, with that of the Maccabees. As also all the most memorable affairs of Asia and Egypt, and the rise of the Empire of the Roman Caesars under C. julius and Octavianus, collected from all Histories, as well sacred as profane, and methodically digested by the most reverend james Usher Archbishop of Armagh, and Primate of all Ireland. folio  
Hymen's Preludia, or Love's Master piece, being the seventh part of that so much admired Romance, Entitled Cleopatra written originally in French, and now rendered into English by J. C. 8●  
De Hibernia et Antiqui●atibus suis disquisitiones, Editio secunda emendatior et quarta parte auctitor. Accesserunt rerum hi●erni earum reguante Hencico, VIII. annal ●unc primum in lucem ●diti. A Iacob● Wat●o. Autore Equ. Au●. 8●  
Honoria and Mammon, with the contention of Ajax and Ulysses for the Armour of Achilles, by james Shyrly, Gent, 8●  
Certain Discourses, viz. of Babylon (Revel. 18. 4.) being he present See of Rome, (with a Sermon of Bishop Bedels' upon the same words; of laying on of Hands (Heb. 6. 2.) to be an ordained ministry; of the old form of words in Ordination; of a set form of Prayer. Each being the Judgement of the late Archbishop of Armagh and Primate of all Ireland. Published and enlarged by N. Bernard. D. D. and Preacher to the honourable Society of Grays-Inne, unto which is added a Character to Bishop Bedel, and an answer to Mr. Perce's fifth Letter concerning the late Primate. 8●  
Hymen's Preludia or Love's Masterpiece, being the ninth and tenth part of that so much admired Romance Entitled Cleopatra, written originally in French, and now rendered into English, by I. D. folio.  
The Antiquities of Warick shire illustrated and beautified with Maps, prospects and Pourtractuers, by William Dugdale. folio.  
By whom also a●● manner of Books are to be sold brought from beyond the Sea●.  
FINIS.