AN ACCOUNT OF Several Travels Through a great part of GERMANY: In Four Journeys. 

I. From Norwich to Colen.  
II. From Colen to Vienna, with a particular Description of that Imperial City.  
III. From Vienna to Hamburg.  
iv From Colen to London.   WHEREIN The Mines, Baths, and other Curiosities of those Parts are Treated of. Illustrated with Sculptures. By EDWARD BROWN M. D. Fellow of the College of Physicians of London, and of the Royal Society.  
LONDON, Printed for Benj. took, and are to be sold at the Sign of the Ship in St. Paul's Churchyard. 1677.   

Imprimatur,  
G. Jane R. P. D. Hen. Episc. Lond. à Sacris Dom. Sept. 26. 1676.   

TO THE READER.  
HAving given the English World an Account of some remote and seldom traveled Countries of Europe, in the Year, 1673. I remained indifferent, as to the publishing any thing more, concerning nearer, or better known places; a great part whereof hath been delivered by some good, and observing Writers; upon which consideration, though written some years since, these Papers have not come abroad, and had still remained private, had not the desires of Friends solicited this Publication, and also a Promise in my former Book obliged me to say something of Vienna; as likewise my Journey unto that Place from England, by the Belgian Provinces and Germany; and of my Return from Vienna by Austria Trans-Danubiana, Moravia, Bohemia, Misnia, Saxonia, unto Hamburg; hereof I have therefore given some Account in this Work, not much engaging into the Policy and State Government of Places, which have been so largely delivered, as to make up just Volumes, but have rather set down what is Naturally, Artificially, Historically, and Topographically remarkable; together with some Customs and Occurrencies which might be acceptable unto the Inquisitive Reader, or serve as hints of further Enquiry, to such Persons as may hereafter Travel into those Parts.   

A JOURNEY FROM NORWICH TO COLEN in GERMANY.  
IN the year 1668. I left the large and pleasant City of Norwich, and went by land to Yarmouth a Port Town in Norfolk, at the mouth of the River Hierus or You're; large, fairly built and populous, very considerable for the great Herring fishing in the Autumn, and the commerce it maintaineth in the straits; Baltic, British and Germane Seas: With Italians, French, Spaniards, Dutch, Danes, and Swedes. I was here nobly entertained by that worthy and obliging person, Sr. james johnson, who also furnished me with letters of Credit, to Amsterdam, Franckfort, Venice and Vienna; Whereby I was readily and handsomely accommodated in all Parts where I had afterwards occasion to travel.  
August the 14. about six a clock at night I went aboard the Angel-Ketch in Yarmouth Road, a Vessel of about 55 Tuns, and we immediately set sail for Rotterdam; we left St. Nicholas-Sand on the Larboard, and after that the Nolls, a new Sand, not taken notice of to be raised above twelve years before. We kept our course all night, East and by South and East South East. The Sea burned at the head of the Ship at the beginning of the night, but the Moon rising there appeared nothing but froth. In the morning we discovered Gravesandt Steeple. It is the custom upon all this coast to send out Pylot-boats continually to meet all Ships at Sea, and furnish them with Pilots to bring them through the sands, and no Ship is to refuse one: Having taken in our Pilot, we soon discovered Goréé Steeple, and then the Briel. We entered the River Mosa, or Maes, a Large and noble Stream, which arising in the Mountains of Vauge, or Vogesus, passing by Verdun, Dinant, Namur, Liege, Maestricht, Ruremond, Venlo, and many considerable Places, doth here fall into the Ocean, we had a very pleasant passage up the River, sailing by many neat Villages, as Maese-sluys, Schedam, Delfshaven, and handsome rows of Trees upon the shore, and arrived at Rotterdam about six at night. This is one of the three chief passages by Sea into Holland, the other being by Flushing and the texel. The nearest cut out of England into Holland is from Laistoffe Point to Gravesandt, which is 28 Leagues, and the deepest part of the Sea is about 28 Fathoms. There lay two of the greatest Ships in Holland at that time near Rotterdam, the Crane and the Wassenaer; this latter built in lieu of that in which Admiral Opdam was blown up, fight against his Royal Highness the Duke of York. The Heads or Keys between which we entered the town by water are handsome, and Ships of great burden are received into the middle of divers streets without difficulty, (their Channels being deep and large) the houses are well built, and the town Populous, they have an Exchange or place for Merchants to meet at, the streets are so clean that the Women go about in white Slippers, they being paved with Bricks laid edgwise. The Landthuise hath a fair front. In the great Church the Organs, the Tower and the Monument of De wit, upon the Bridge the Statue of Erasmus, as also the house where he was born, and the Pleasure boats of the States are worth the seeing. It being then the time of their Kermis or Fair, there were plays acted and many rarities shown, as Lions, Leopards, &c, and a great noise was made about a tall Woman to be shown of seven foot high; but the Boor of Leckerkir'k, not far from this town, was higher. Parsons and Evans, porters to King Charles the first, did also exceed her, but I have seldom heard of any that was taller than Martin Wierwski a Polander, who at the age of forty two years was presented to the Emperor Maximilian the second, as a rarity of nature, and was full eight foot high, whose picture, as big as the life, I saw, near to the Franciscans Convent at Vienna in Austria.  
From Rotterdam I passed by Overschee to Delft, by the Powderhouse, which is a handsome one, built now at some distance from the town to prevent the like accident which befell when the former took fire and blew up part of the town. The Piazza or marketplace is a very fair one, having the front of the town house at one end of it, and the high steeple of the new Church at the other. In the old Church, Van-Tromps Tomb is very well carved upon the side of the Wall, himself lying upon a Canon encompassed with Arms and trophies. In the middle Isle of the new Church there is a noble monument, the Tomb of William of Nassaw Prince of Orange, together with his Wife and Son, Prince Maurice; his Statue is in armour with his Dog at his feet, and four Obelisks are supported by ten Marble pillars. In a house of this Town there were shown me in a Wall the marks of the bullets shot at Prince William, who was thereby murdered 1584. and in another Church which was broad and spacious I saw a handsome Tomb for Sr. Charles Morgan's Lady, and the Monument of Peter Hein the Admiral, who took the Spanish Silversleet.  
The Hague, Haga Comitis, the ancient place of Residence of the Counts of Holland, and now of the States general; is about an hours-going distant from Delft; in which passage, at some distance, we had a sight of two of the Prince of Orange's houses. This place is well built; the Prince's Court handsome; The Piazza by it full of green trees; many fair Houses. The Course where the Coaches meet, the Pall-mall, the Wood, the Park, do much beautify it, and the way from hence to Scheveling, from whence his Majesty returned into England, is very remarkable, it being a straight way cut through the Sand-hills, and paved with Brick for three miles, having on each hand four or five rows of Trees, and Scheveling Steeple at the end of it.  
The Hague and Mad rid in Spain are accounted the greatest Villages, or open unwalled places, in Europe, and the Hollanders have thought it more honour to be Masters of the greatest Village, than of a place which, if it were walled, would come short of many Cities; but this may prove a dangerous resolution, for formerly upon this advantage, Martin van Rossem, Captain to the Duke of Gueldres, sacked the Hague; and it was lately in the like danger when the French Forces lay at Utrecht and Worden, if they had forced a passage into that part of Holland.  
Leyden is three hours or three Dutch miles from the Hague, at present one of the nearest Towns in Europe; Well built, hath divers large Streets, beautified with rows of Trees, and the water passing through the middle of them, and also well fortified after the modern way; I took notice of that Antiquity called Hengist Castle, or the Berg, said to be built by Hengist the Saxon, and went up to the top thereof: Upon the top there is now an Arbour, and a Maze or Labyrinth round it, and a Well, out of which, they told us, they took a Fish alive when the Town was almost famished during the siege, which was showed to the Enemy over the wall, endeavouring to make their condition to appear better than it was, and to dishearten the besiegers. There are now handsome stairs from the top to the bottom, and a good house built by it, where they have their public sales and entertainments. But a nobler Antiquity lieth under the Sea, than any above ground; not far from hence near Calwyck is a square fortress called Arx Britannica, built by Caligula; in the declining of the Roman Empire ruined in part by the Normans, and afterwards neglected, & over whelmed by the Sea. But in some years, and great retire of the Sea, the ruins have been discovered, and many noble Antiquities brought from it, some having this inscription Ex. Ger. Inf. ex Germania inferiori. The Stadthuise hath a fair front towards the street. In the Anatomy Schools are a very great number of Skeletons. Two legs of an Elephant. The Skeleton of a young Whale, of a Horse, Deer, Cow, Cat, Fox, and many other Animals; divers Skeletons of Men and Women, some bodies preserved with their Muscles, and one entire, the flesh, skin and all parts defended from corruption. I saw also here what Monsieur the Bills pretended towards the preservation of Bodies, but more accurately afterwards at Dr. Ruisch his house at Amsterdam The Physick-garden, although but small, is well filled with Plants, where are also many other both natural, and artificial Curiosities to be seen, and many sorts of Optic glasses. Near the garden are the Schools built of Brick with the Officina Elzeviriana on the top. In the Churches I saw the Monuments of many famous men. There is a Picture in the Chamber for the Burgermasters, representing the day of Judgement, drawn by Lucas van Leyden, so much esteemed that, it is said, the Emperor Rudolphus would have given for it as many Ducats of Gold as would have covered it. The Table also upon which John of Leyden wrought whilst he was a Tailor, is a Curiosity, because he proved afterwards so considerable a disturber of Germany, and came to be King of the Anabaptists.  
This City endured a hard siege by the Spanish forces, and they were reduced unto great extremity, but they saved themselves by overflowing the Country, and so forcing the Enemies to make away with great loss; and afterwards coined a memorial-Medall with this Inscription.  
Ut Senacherib à Jerusalem, sic Hispani a Leydae noctu fugerunt. 1574.  
From Leyden I came to Haerlem, a neat City, pleasantly seated and having a Grove near it. The great Church is esteemed the largest in Holland, with a very high Lantern upon it. Within are many Inscriptions and Monuments, most of which are transcribed and set down in Gotfr. Hegenitii Itinerarium Hollandicum. In the Prince's house are all the Earls of Holland Painted upon the wall, and in the Garden in the Summer-house, the Picture of Laurentius Costerus, who is said to have first invented the art of Printing in this Town; but others attribute it to Johannes Gottenberg, a German. On the other side there is a Picture of a Ship with Saws, in memory of the manner how Damiata in Egypt was formerly taken by those of this Town, who, as they report, accompanied Frederick Barbarossa in an expedition against the Saracens, and when the men of Pelusium or Damiata had chamed up their Port, by this invention of fastening strong Saws to the keels of their Ships, they cut the chains in sunder, and so took the Town. In the rooms are very good Paintings by Hemskerk, and Goltzius, as his Prometheus and other Pieces; but Cornelius van Haerlem most delighted me, in his pieces of Herod's killing the Innocent Children; his feast of the Gods, in which Vulcan's foot is esteemed at a great rate; and another Picture of a Friar and a Nun at a Collation, not inseriour to the rest.  
The old men's house, or an Hospital for sixty aged persons, is large and handsome; having a good Quadrangle and a Garden in it. The Hospital also for the sick is very cleanly kept.  
Here I first saw the manner of punishing Malefactors by whipping them with rods, which is more severe than I imagined; they lead them to a Post upon a scaffold, their hands tied and by a pulley drawn up as high as they can be extended, and then an Iron fastened about their waist to keep them steady; in which stretched-out posture they receive sometimes fifty or sixty stripes or more, according to the merit of their offence.  
Not far from this place there is a great Water, or noted Lake called Haerlem Mere about twenty miles in length, which is frozen over in hard Winters, and men swiftly travel over it by sliding, or in sleds. When Haerlem was besieged there was a Naval sight upon it; The Dutch having about an hundred and fifty Vessels, and the Spaniards not many fewer. The Town was afterwards taken by Composition, but such cruelty was used by the Spaniards that they have not yet forgot it.  
From Haerlem I went to Amsterdam, a City at present for Riches, Trade, Shipping, fair Streets, and pleasant habitations, scarce yielding to any other of the World. It is seated upon the River Ye, and hath its name, as 'tis reported, from a Castle appertaining long since to the Lords of Amstel, to whom this place also belonged: At the beginning, the seat of a few fishermen; but afterwards increasing, it received many privileges from the Counts of Holland, and was made a Town or City by the favour of their Grants and Charters. In the year 1470. it was walled about with a Brickwall, to defend it against the Citizens of Utrecht, they having been in great danger to have fallen into their hands, if those of Utrecht had pursued their victories. In few Months after also, the whole Town was almost reduced to Ashes by fire, but by the increase of their Traffic they easily overcame these losses, waded through all difficulties, and rendered good services to their Counts, and received the honour afterwards from Maximilian the Emperor to have the Imperial Crown over their Arms, which are three Crosses on a Pale  
About the year 1525. Gelen, sent from the new King of Munster, passed through Friesland and came to this City; where having made a party, and communicated his design, he resolved to surprise the Town by night, at the time of the sounding of the Bell; to which intent they were already entered the Market place, had set upon the Town house: and cut in pieces those who resisted them. When by great providence the rope to the great Bell was taken away; the Magistrates had notice of it, and caused all the streets and Avenues leading to the Marketplace to be stopped up with Woolsacks and Hopsacks, whereby they were hindered in their design of taking the Town by night, and the next morning their number being discovered to be inconsiderable, they were set upon, driven into the Stadthuis, and defeated.  
Of late years this City is mightily increased and encompassed with a new Wall, and fortified after the modern way. The new Streets are large and uniform: and the whole Town being in a low Marshy ground, the water is let in through all the considerable Streets. The River Amstel passeth through the City, being let in under a handsome well-contrived Bridge of Eleven Arches, which is so built as to make part of the Wall and Rampart, and is 26 paces broad. The whole Town is built upon Piles, or high Firr-trees, driven down perpendicularly into the Earth so thick together, that nothing more can be forced in between them: And by this means they build Houses in the Sea, and lay Foundations strong enough to support the greatest Buildings whatsoever, in places where no solid bottom is to be found. But they must needs be at a great expense and labour before they can lay the first Stone: And the number of Trees required to each Foundation is considerable; since for the Foundation of one Tower or Steeple alone, over against the Church of St. Katherine, Mr. J. de Parivall, who wrote Les Delices de la Hollande, reckoneth that there was rammed into the ground a Forest, as he calls it, of Six thousand three hundred and thirty four great Trees. About this manner of work, for the fixing their Foundations, I saw them employed in divers places, particularly at the East-India-house, and at a place where a Lutheran Church was then designed to be built, So that it was not improbably said, That if a man could see all under this City, he could hardly behold a greater Forest.  
The Stadthuis or Townhouse, is the noblest Building in all these Countries. A Pile of Freestone of an hundred and ten paces in Front, being larger than the Magnified Front of the Church of St. Peter's at Rome, and eighty one paces deep, or on the sides. The Chambers in it, the Pictures and Statues, are worthy to be seen and admired. The first Room on the right hand, or Judgment-hall, where the Malefactors receive their Sentence, is adorned with large Statues, hanging down their heads in mournful postures, as if concerned or grieving at what was then pronounced. The Floors are of Marble; the Roofs are richly giled and painted. Upon the top of all stands Atlas or Columlus, holding a Globe upon his shoulder made of Copper, of about ten foot Diameter, which is as large perhaps as any Ball or Globe whatsoever employed to this ornamental use. That upon St. Peter's at Rome, as having been in it, I judge to be less; as likewise that at Florence. The Turkish Ornament to the Tower of their Mosques, is three Balls one above another, and an half Moon over them, but they are less by far, at least such as I have seen: and by relation from Eye-witnesses, the largest of the three noble gilded Balls at Morocco are inferior to this. But I will say nothing more of this great building, the Stadthuis, since there is a peculiar description of it in Folio, with Cuts and Figures of the most remarkable Curiosities in it. The Exchange is fair and large, and above it are Shops: it is very well frequented, and he that cometh after twelve payeth six stivers.  
Divers of their Churches are fair: In the new Church, the partition with Balisters of Brass, and the carved Pulpit, are noble. In the old Church the Tomb of Van Hulse and Heemskerk are remarkable. Heemskerk did his Country great Services in their first attempts upon India: for the King of Spain having confiscated some of the Hollanders Ships, who traded to his Dominions, which were then the Staple for the India Trade. It was resolved by the permission of Prince Maurice and the States, to set out a Fleet of eight ships for the Indies; four of which were to pass by the way of the Atlantic Ocean, and the Cape of Good-hope: And the other four were to search a passage towards the Kingdoms of Cathay and China by the North-east, whereby the passage also into those parts might be expected much shorter than that which was known to the Spaniards.  
To this intent these four last vessels sailed out of the Texel, June 5. 1594. and returned in September, not being able to proceed by reason of the Ice. But upon the relation of the Voyage by William Barenson, there were two other Expeditions afterwards to Nova Zembla; in the last of which they wintered there, and Barenson lost his life. Heemskerk was the chief of the twelve which returned from that cold habitation, where none but Bears and Foxes could well endure the Winter, where he had been twice, and afterwards made two rich Voyages into India. Upon whose happy returns the Holland East-India Company was first established, and a prohibition made for any other of that Country to trade thither for the space of One and twenty years.  
But to proceed to other public Buildings in this City. The Tuchthuis or Raspelhuis, or House of Correction for debauched young men, such as are incorrigible and disobedient to Parents or Laws, hath at the entrance of the Gate two Lions bridled, a proper Emblem, with this Inscription, Virtutis est domare quae cuncti pavent. This was formerly a Monastery belonging to the Nuns of the Order of St. Clare, and converted to this use 1595. They who are put in, are forced to work and gain their Bread with hard labour. I saw those who rasped Brazil, having a certain task set them every day, work so hard, that being naked and in a sweat, and the dust of the Brazil wood flying upon them, they were all over painted of a beautiful red colour. Which odd sight made me call to mind the Fancy of my Lady Marchioness of Newcastle, of a Nation wherein the People were of Orange-tawny colour, and the King of Purple.  
They told us that some that were committed to their charge, and not to be brought to work by blows, they placed in a large Cistern, and let the water in upon them; placing only a Pump by them for their relief, whereby they are forced to labour for their lives, and to free themselves from drowning. One we saw put into a narrow Dungeon, and kept from meat. Some are put into this House for a longer time, some for a shorter. It hath been a punishment for such as have drawn their Daggers, or offered to stab any one. And some Citizens, though able and rich enough, contrive it so, that when their Sons are extravagant and masterless, the Officers seize upon them, and carry them into this House, where they are not forced to any hard labour, but kept in till they see sufficient signs of a mending their life.  
This way of Correction may seem severe to many, yet is not comparable to that which is said to have been formerly used in Germany. Particularly at Colen, in the white Tower, at the North end of the Town, near the Rhine; where it is reported, that such Youths who were not otherwise to be reclaimed, were in a barbarous manner shut up in the white Tower. The height and thickness of the walls secured them from escaping, or from their complaints being heard. Near the top was placed out of their reach a loaf of bread, the last remedy against starving, which while their bold necessity forced them to reach at, they executed their last sentence upon themselves, and miserably broke their own necks.  
Somewhat like the Raspelhuis is the Spinhuis, or House of Correction, for the young women who live loosely, are taken in the night, or can give no account of their living. They are put in for a certain time, according as their fault meriteth, and are bound to make lace, sew, or employ their time perpetually in some honest labour.  
Those of the better sort are permitted to have Chambers apart. In one large Room I saw about an hundred of them, and some very well dressed and fine, which was an unexpected sight to me, and would sure be more strange to behold in France and England.  
The Weeshuis, or Hospital for Children, where there are Six hundred Orphans carefully looked after, and well educated.  
The Dolhuis, or a House for such as are Delirious, Maniacal, or Melancholical of both Sexes.  
The Gasthuis, or Hospital for the Sick, being large, and hath a great Revenue.  
The Mannenhuis, or Hospital for old Men, and such as are no longer able to labour towards their own support.  
Besides all which, there are great Sums of money collected for the poor, so that there is not a Beggar to be seen in the Streets, and upon all assignations or appointments of meeting at the Tavern, or elsewhere, and upon many other occasions, whosoever faileth to come at the exact time, forfeiteth more or less to the use of the Poor.  
The East-India-houses are remarkable, and the great Stores of their Commodities, Cinnamon, Green-ginger, Camphire, Pepper, Calecuts, Indigo, etc. The ships are of a great burden: their House was then enlarging, although it was great before; and a perfect Town for all Trades within itself.  
The Admiralteyt, or Admiralty where their Stores for War and Shipping are laid up, is encompassed with water; near to it there lay then 72 Men of War. In the House we saw their Cables, Grappling irons, Pulleys, Oars, Charges for Powder, Lanterns for ships, etc. At the entrance of the Gate hangeth up a Canoe with a man in it, dried up, so as to be preserved from corruption, and a Paddle in his hand: he was enclosed up to the waste in the Canoe, in such sort, as the Fish-skins, which were the cover to it, being so sewed together that no water could get in, he might keep the Sea in the greatest Storms without danger. The top of this House, as of divers others also in this City, is a Reservatory for Rain-water, which they have the more need of, because they have little good water hereabouts.  
The fairest Streets in the Town are Harlem-street, the Cingel, Prince's Graft, Kaisers' Graft, and the New Buildings in the Island towards Gottenburg. And if they continue to build with Freestone, they will still surpass these, which, I'll assure you, are in no small measure beautiful.  
I saw a Globe to be sold, made by Vingbomes, between six and seven foot Diameter, valued at Sixteen thousand Guldens: The Meridian alone, being of brass, cost a thousand gulden's. The Globe is made of Copper-plates excellently well painted, with all the new Discoveries in it, as that of Anthony Van Dimons' Land, found out 1642. in 42 degrees of Southern Latitude, and 170 of Longitude, those towards the Northwest of Japan, and those places both about N. Z. and also in the Tartarian Sea beyond the straits of Voygats, New-Holland, West-Friesland, Cape d'Hyver, etc. but I have since met with a Book, which doth somewhat contradict this; entitled A Voyage into the Northern Countries by Monsieur Martiniere, who went in one of the three ships belonging to the Northern Company of Copenhagen, in the year 1653. and by that means had occasion to converse with the Norwegians, Islanders, Laplanders, Kilops, Borandians, Siberians, Zemblians, and Samojedes, who are Neighbours to the Tartars and Tingorses, in his 46 Chapter he expresseth himself after this manner. There having fallen into my hands several Geographical Charts of sundry eminent and much celebrated Authors, I am much amazed to see how they are mistaken in the position of Zembla, which they place much nearer the North Pole than really it is; they divide it likewise by the Sea from Greenland, and place it far distant from it, when as indeed those two Countries are Contiguous, the Coasts of Greenland butting upon the Coasts of Zembla, so as did not the great quantity of Snow, and the violence of the cold render those Borders uninhabitable, the passage would be very easy by Land from Greenland to Zembla, and from Zembla passing the Paternoster Mountains to enter into Samojedia, from thence into Tartary or Muscovy, as one pleased: But of the truth of this we shall be further informed at the return of Captain Wood  
I was amazed likewise to see they had described the Straight called Voygat, not above ten French Leagues in length, whereas it contains above five and thirty Dutch Leagues, which is six times as much. Again, they would persuade us that through that Straight our ships might pass into the great Tartarian Ocean, which is a mistake. And although they indeed do affirm that in the time of Prince Maurice of Nassau, a Dutch Vessel passed that way into that Ocean, yet it is a manifest error, that Straight being bounded, as I said before, by the Paternoster Mountains, which are half a League high, and the tops of them covered with perpetual Snow, which never dissolves. And of this I can give a positive testimony, having been myself in that Straight under those Mountains in the Dog-days, which is the hottest time of the year.  
From the Steeple of the Old Church of Amsterdam, I had a good prospect of the Town, and the great number of ships lying upon one side of it, like a Wood; and all the Towns about it. The Roofs of the Houses being sharp, it is a most uneven Town to be looked upon downward, as it is a handsome one to be looked on upward; and is not so divertising or pleasing to the sight, as some Towns in France and Italy, which have flatter Roofs, or else are covered with a fine black Slat or Ardoise. Upon this, and all other Towers of the Town, a Trumpet is sounded at Midnight, and in other parts of the City at six a Clock night and morning. At eleven a clock, the time of going on to the Exchange, there is good Music at the Stadthuis, given by the Earl of Leicester. They make good Harmony also every hour in playing upon their Chimes and Bells in most Steeples. And there is a Music-house or Entertaining-house, where any one is admitted for a Stiver, hears most sorts of Music, seethe many good Water-works, and divers motions by Clockwork, Pictures, and other Divertisements.  
During my stay at Amsterdam, I had the opportunity of seeing divers Learned Men, and Persons of Note. Dr. Ruish showed us many Curiosities in Anatomy, as the Skeletons of young Children, and Faetus' of all Ages, neatly set together, and very white; the Lymphatic vessels so preserved, as to see the valves in them. A Liver excarnated, showing the Minute vessels, all shining and clear. The Muscles of Children dissected and kept from corruption: entire Bodies preserved; the face of one was very remarkable, without the least spot or change of colour or alteration of the lineaments, from what might be expected immediately after death: he had then kept it two years, and hoped it would so continue. Dr. Swammerdam shown us divers of his Experiments which he hath set down in his Treatise De Respiratione; and a very fair Collection of Infects brought from several Countries; a Stagg-fly of a very great bigness; an Indian Scolopendria, or Forty-foot; a fly called Ephemeron, and many other Curiosities. Old Glawber the Chemist shown us his Laboratory: And we received much civility from Blasius the Physic Professor who hath wrote a Comment upon Veslingius.  
The Jews live more handsomely and splendidly here, than in any other place: Their chief Synagogue is large, adorned with Lamps of Brass and Silver. We happened to be there at the Feast of their New-year; so that their blowing of Horns, shouting and singing was not omitted: Some of them understand divers Languages. I saw one Moses di Pas, a Learned young Man, and Orobio a Physician of Note. And I was sorry to see divers here to profess themselves publicly Jews, who had lived at least reputed Christians, for a long time in other places: One who had been a Franciscan Friar thirty years: and another who had been Professor some years at Tholouze, and before that Physician to the King of Spain. Juda Leo a Jew, hath taken great pains in making a Model of the Temple of Solomon, of Solomon's House, the Fort of the Temple, the Tabernacle, the Israelites encamping, and other Curiosities. I was present at the Circumcision of a Child; which is performed by thrusting a Probe in between the Glans and Praeputium, and separating it, or dilating the Praeputium, so as the inward Skin may be drawn forward as well as the outward; then by applying an Instrument jointed like a Carpenter's Rule, or a Sector, the Skin is held fast beyond the Glans, and with a broad Incision-knife, or Circumcision-knife, the Foreskin is cut off close to the Instrument; and what remains of Skin is immediately put back, the blood stopped with Powders, and a Plaster applied; the Relations and Acquaintance singing all the while, whereby the cries of the Infant are less heard.  
Leaving Amsterdam, I passed by a peculiar Burial-place of the Jews, who are not permitted to inter their dead within the Walls, by Overskerk, Bamburg, and in six or seven hours arrived at Utretcht, in a Boat drawn with Horses through artificial Cuts of Water, which is the way of Travelling in Holland, Utretcht, and divers other Provinces of the Low-Countries.  
Utretcht is an ancient, large, handsome City, and chief of the Province of the same name, called formerly Antonina, and afterwards Ultrajectum. Long famous for its Episcopal See founded by Dagobert King of France, who endowed it richly with Lands and Possessions: Willebald, or Willebrode an Englishman, was their first Bishop, who converted these Countries unto Christianity; and the following Bishops grew so powerful, that they were able to bring many thousand men into the field, and to wage great Wars against the Counts of Holland: Their Succession also continued for above Nine hundred years. It is now an University, founded by the States in the Year 1636. I shall not trouble you with the Names of the Professors; the Learned Mr. Ray, whom I had the honour to meet in divers places abroad, having already caused to be printed the Series Lectionum of this and many other Universities in the Low-Countries, Germany, and Italy, in his Observations Topographical, Moral. Physiological, set forth 1673. The great Church hath a very high Tower, or three Steeples one above another: From the highest of which I had not only a good sight of the Town itself, which lay under mine Eye like a Platform, but of many others also; Utretcht being in a plain flat Country, and so well seated, and encompassed with so populous a Country, that in a days Journey a man may go from hence to any one of fifty walled Towns and Cities. The English Church here is an ancient Building; the Pillar in the middle of it, whose Foundation could not be laid but upon Bulls-hides, is much taken notice of: It was built 1099. and hath the Picture of a Bull upon it with this Inscription;  
Accipe Posteritas quod per tua saecula narres,  
Taurinis cutibus fundo solidata columna est.  
There is an old Library belonging to this Church, which containeth divers old Books and Manuscripts. A large Bible in six Volumes, painted and gilded after a very ancient manner: Two Idols taken (in time of war) long since in Germany, and given to this place by the Emperor Henry the Fourth, are worth the seeing, not so much for their neatness, as their Antiquity and odd shape: As also a Horn made out of a Tooth, said to be given at the same time. There are also three Unicorns Horns, little differing in length; the longest being five foot and an half: I drank out of one of them, the end being tipped with Silver, and made hollow to serve for a Cup. These were of the Sea-Unicorn, or the Horn or long wreathed Tooth of some Sea-Animal much like it, taken in the Northern Seas; of which I have seen many, both in Public Repositories, and in Private Hands. Two such as these, the one Ten foot long, were presented not many years since to the King of Denmark, being taken near to Nova Zembla; and I have seen some full fifteen foot long; some wreathed very thick, some not so much, and others almost plain: Some largest and thickest at the End near the head; others are largest at some distance from the Head: Some very sharp at the end or point, and others blunt. My honoured Father Sir T. B. hath a very fair piece of one which was formerly among the Duke of Curlands Rarities, but after that he was taken Prisoner by Douglas in the wars between Sweden and Poland, it came into a Merchant's hands, of whom my Father had it, he hath also a piece of this sort of Unicorns Horn burned black, out of the Emperor of Russia's repository, given him by Dr. Arthur Dee, who was Son to Dr. John Dee, and also Physician to the Emperor of Russia, when his Chambers were burned, in which he preserved his Curiosities. I have seen a walking Staff, a Sceptre, a Scabbard for a Sword, Boxes, and other Curiosities made out of this Horn, but was never so fortunate as from experience to confirm its Medical Efficacy against Poisons, contagious Diseases, or any other evident effect of it, although I have known it given several times, and in great quantity. But of these Unicorns Horns not man sure hath so great a Collection as the King of Denmark; and his Father had so many, that he was able to spare about an hundred of them, to build a Magnificent Throne out of Unicorns Horns.  
I had the honour to see divers Persons of Note in this City; as D. Cyprianus ab Oostergo, Dr. Regius, Voetius, the only Member then left alive of the Synod of Dort, and others; but miss the sight of the Learned Anna Maria Skurman, who was then gone out of Town, and was forced to content myself with beholding her Picture, well drawn by her own hand, with this Inscription of hers under it:  
Ceruitis hic pict â nostros in Imagine vultus,  
Si negat ars formam gratia vestra dabit.  
The Painter's Hall is considerable, wherein are many good pieces to be seen of several Masters: Amongst which there are good Heads by Van Colen and Tuart; Landscapes by Soft-lever; and good Drapery, especially in some Turkish Habits, by Van der Mere.  
This Town is also beautified with a fair Piazza or Marketplace, divers long Streets, and a Pall-mall with five rows of Trees on each side. In the Church of St. Katherino is the Tomb of my Lord Gorge. Though I had seen France and Italy, and the Noble Cities thereof, which are worthily admired by all, yet I was much surprised upon the first sight of the United Provinces, especially of Holland, and the adjoining places. He that hath observed the easy accommodation for Travel therein, both by Land and Water, their excellent order and regular course in all things; the number of Learned men; the abundance of Varieties in all kinds; the industry, frugality, and wealth of the people; their numerous good Towns; their extraordinary neatness in their Buildings and Houses; their proper Laws and administration of Justice; and their incredible Number of Shipping and Boats, will think it an omission to rest in the sight of other Countries without a view of this. A Country of little extent, and soon traveled over, but so replenished with People, with good Cities, fair Towns and Villages, as not to be met with upon so little a compass of ground, except perhaps in China.  
From Utrecht, in two hours, I came to Friswick, and passed over the River Leck to Viaenen, where there is little remarkable besides the House and Gardens of Count Brederode, one of the Ancient Nobility of Holland, or, according to common esteem, of the most Noble Family of all; the Family of the Egmonds being formerly esteemed the Richest; the Wassenaer's the most ancient, and the Brederodes the Noblest. The Mount in this Garden serveth for the Rampart to the Town, and on a round Bulwark are divers small brass Guns planted. The statuas of the twelve Caesars, of Aristotle, the Pyramids and Partitions, with the Paintings upon the wall, are the rest of its Ornaments.  
From hence I passed still by Boat through the Land of Arkel, some say, derived from Hercules; belonging formerly to the Lords of Gorchom and Arkeland, till by Mary, daughter to the last Lord of Arkeland, it sell to John Lord of Egmond, and afterwards was sold to William the sixth Earl of Holland I arrived this night at Gorchom, a Town well seated, near three Rivers, the Ling, the Wael, and the Maes. The Marketplace is fair; the Stadthuis is sunk somewhat on one side. The Governor hath a good House, and the Church a very high thick Steeple: the Works are of Earth; the Water-gate is handsome, and over it in Great Letters is this Inscription;  Civitas in quâ maximè Cives legibus parent, & in pace beata, & bello invicta. 1642. 
The more remarkable because it made good its Inscription in the year 1672. when Lovis the Fourteenth, King of France, came down with so powerful an Army into the Low-Countries, that in that Summer's Expedition he took thirty walled Towns and Cities, this Water-gate being the Limit to his Conquests this way, beyond which his Forces were not able to attempt any thing.  
Leaving Gorcum, I passed by Worcum, on the other side of the River, and then by the Castle of Lovesteyn, strongly seated and well fortified; and therefore hath been often made use of to secure Persons of Note. Sir George Ascue of late years suffered his Imprisonment herein, and formerly Barnevelt; upon which occasion this Castle hath been much spoken of, and hath given the name to that whole party who sided with him, well known at present by the name of the Lovestein Faction. Passing on further up the Maes, I left Proye on the left hand, and Huesden on the right, and the next day morning arrived at the Bosch.  
Hertogen Bosch, Sylva Ducis, Boscum Ducis, Boisleduc, Bolduc, takes its name from a Wood belonging to the Dukes of Brabant: It is a strong pleasant City, seated upon the River Disa or Deese, which entereth the Maes, about two Leagues below it; one of the greatest Cities in Brabant; and for its strength, for which 'tis beholden both to Nature and to Art, the States of the United Provinces possess not any one more considerable, and is a very good Frontier against all Enemies on this side: It is encompassed on all sides with Fens and Marshy Grounds. The Avenues to it are by narrow Causies, made turning and winding, to be commanded in all places by one or other of the six Sconces or Forts built at some distance without the Town for its greater Security. Besides which, the Hollanders having some reason to be jealous of the Inhabitants, whose affections might incline them towards the neighbouring Princes, of whose Religion most of them are, they have built a Citadel within the Town, a Briel or pair of Spectacles to look more accurately into their Affairs. It is a handsome regular Fort of five Bastions, each Curtain is 84 ordinary paces long; the Faces of each Bastion 63; and the Flank or Neck 24. There is a handsome House of Stone for the Sentry at the point of each Bastion, and the middle of each Curtain, every one of which cost Seven hundred gulden's. Here is also a Field Canon of an extraordinary length, said to be able to fling a Bullet almost as far as Bommel. The Piazza in this Town is Triangular.  
This City was made an Episcopal See, 1559. The Cathedral is Dedicated to St. John. In the Choir are painted the Arms of many of the Knights of the Golden Fleece. And over the upper Stalls or Seats, an Inscription in French, which contains the History of the first Institution, and Model of this Order, by the most High and mighty Prince Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy, Lorain, and Brabant: Besides divers statuas and Pillars. There are also several Monuments of the Bishops of Bosche and others.  
This Town was taken from the King of Spain by the Forces of the Confederate Estates, in the year 1628. after a long and chargeable Siege; in which the little Sconce, one of the Forts towards the South, did excellent Service.  
Divers of the Nuns were still alive in this Town, but at Utretcht they were all dead.  
From the Bosche we traveled through a plain Country, somewhat Sandy, to Breda upon the River Merck: A place very considerable, pleasantly seated, and well-fortified. It hath formerly had more Outworks than at present: For they have taken away the Crown-works, and left only the Halfmoons and Hornworks, and Conserves or Contregards about the Halfmoons. There is a large Ditch of Water round the Counterscarp, and a small Ravelin between each Bastion, joined to the Rampart within side of the Ditch. There is also a double hay or Quickset-hedge almost quite round the Town, besides Palisadoes. The Parapet is very thick, and strengthened with a row of Elms, and seconded with another row at three or four yard's distance, round the Town; the bodies of the Bastions are sunk down or h●llowed away, and filled with a thicket of Elms. The Half Moons are the like without the Town, and after all, a brest-work between the Town and the Bastions; and Cavaliers upon several places of the Rampart.  
This Town belongeth unto the Prince of Orange, unto whom it hath descended by the right of the house of Nassaw, by the Marriage of Engelbert the seventh Earl of that house, with Marry daughter and Heir of Philip the last Lord thereof, about the year 1400. It was taken by the Spaniards in the beginning of the Low Country Wars, and was afterwards Surprised by the Dutch, by a stratagem performed by eighty men hid in a Boat covered over with Turf, and so let into the Castle. In the year 1625. the Spaniards took it again, as by Inscriptions and Chronograms are to be seen in divers places, as that over the door of the Church.  a MbrosI spIno Lae VIg ILantIa bre Da e XpUgnata. 
As also this,  PhILIppUs hIspanlae reX gUbernante Isabe LLa CLarâ EUgenIa Infanta, obsIDente spInoLa qUaternIs regIbus frUstra ConIUrantIbus breDa VIGtor potItur. 
Afterwards it was besieged and taken by Frederick Hendrick Prince of Orange, as an Inscription at the Westend of the Church sets it down.  Auxilio solius Dei, Auspiciis confederati Belgij, Ferdinando Austriaco Hispaniae Infanta cum ingenti exercitu frustra succurrente, a julij 23 obsessamad 19 Augusti oppugnatam. Fredericus Henricus Princeps araUsIUs bre DaMe eXpUgnat seXta OCtobris. 
The Church is fair and hath many good Monuments, as Renesse's Tomb; a Monument for Sir Thomas Alesbury set up by the Lord Chancellor Hid; an old Tomb erected 1349. for John Lord of Lech and Breda; the Tomb of Grave Engleberg Van Nassaw and his family on the side of the Wall; the Here Van Horn and his three Wives; but the Principal Monument is that of Grave Hendrick Van Nassaw, whose Armour is supported by four Warriors upon their Knees; he built the Castle of Breda, which is at present both strong and beautiful: I observed the place where the Turfe-Boat came in, and where the Prince came over into the Town. The Gallery, the Garden, the Walks, and Dial's are worth the seeing, the Town in handsomely built, populous, and generally hath a great Garrison in it.  
Leaving Breda we soon came by Land to St. Gertruydenberg the last Town on the North of Brabant, where it joineth to the Province of Holland, a small place, but a good Town for fishing, lying upon a Hill near the great broad Water called the Waert, made by the falling of the Maes and many other Rivers into it. This Town is fortified and Garrisoned. The Church and Steeple have been Large and fair, and the ruins of the latter are observable, in regard that this Steeple was shot down by a Stratagem of the Prince of Orange, while the Governor and chief of the Town were upon it, to observe a false alarm in the Prince's Camp, and so lost themselves and the Town. We Passed from hence over a large Water which hath overflowed a great part of the Country upon one side of it, no less than seventy two Parishes being drowned at once, the Village of Ramsdun only escaping, and so by an old Tower called the house of Murney, to the Maiden Town of Dort, or Dordrecht.  
Dordracum, so called by some from Duri or Dureti forum, at present Dort, being seated in the Waves of those great Lakes made by the Maes and Waal, is not unaptly from its situation compared to a Swans nest, it is reckoned the first and chief Town of South Holland, in respect of its antiquity, as having served to secure Odocer in his retreat almost eight hundred years since, and also in respect of its Privileges, in having the Mint here, and being the Staple for Rhenish wine and English Cloth.  
In this Town are many fair houses and pleasant Gardens. The great Church is large, the Steeple 312 steps high; the top thereof being made of four large Dial's. There is also an Exchange or Place for Merchants to meet. The English have two Churches, and the French one. The Key or Head to the water side is handsome, and the Country about very pleasant; we saw the Chamber wherein the Synod of Dort was assembled 1611. a large fair room; and took a collation in the same house, in a high turret overlooking the Town and Country: Our seats Moving round about the Table continually; so as the diversity of the prospect made it more delightful. The great Vessels round-bellied, which trade between Coln and this City seemed strange; as also the long Luyck or Liege-boats; and the number of People that continually live in them. At my going away from hence I embarked in a Vessel bound for the Island of Walcheren, sailing by most of the Islands of Zealand and in sight of divers good Towns. as Willemstadt, Zirickze, Tergoes; observing in some places where the Sea had overflowed the Land; and in others where the Industry of the Inhabitants still keep it out, by keeping up their banks, and thatching the Shores of the Sea. We Landed at Ter-Vere, where there is a good Haven and Harbour for Ships, the Walls were built in the year 1357, towards the Sea are round towers. The Piazza is long. The Scotch have had a Factory here for above two hundred years, and the Marquis of this Place did formerly make one of the three States, by which Zealand was Governed. The Abbot of St Nicholas in Middleburg representing the Ecclesiastical jurisdiction, and the Towns of Middleburg, Zirickzee, Terveer, Flussing, Tolen, Martins-dike, Romerswal and Tergoes, supplying the Third: over against this place where a Town had formerly sunk into the Sea, the Steeple only remaineth to be seen. From hence to Middleburg the way is Paved with Brick; as it is also from Town to Town in most places of Holland.  
Middleburg is the chief Town in the Island Walachria, seated almost in the middle of it, being well built, large, rich, and Populous, it is the fourth Port for the East-India trade: hath a large, broad Water within the Town, and a straight cut through the Land to carry Vessels out to Sea, the whole is very well Fortified, the Officers here are chosen by Strangers or Foreigners, the Churches are many and remarkable, the new Church is of an eight-square figure with a Cupola, the Tower of the old great Church very high, the Stadthuise with the old statuas, about it, the round Piazza, and many private buildings are Considerable, and the whole Country about it is fruitful; either divided into Gardens and Orchards, or Planted with Madder, Pompions, or Grain and Fruits. The Zealanders are generally addicted to the interest of the Prince of Orange, and great Lovers of his Person. I found them not a little delighted that the Prince had been with them some days before, and was made Premier Noble, or chief of the States of Zealand; which was chief brought about, as I was informed, by Pensioner Hubert, Le Sage, Duvelaer and Vriebergen, formerly not great friends to the Prince, especially Vriebergen, who was the most earnest of any to bring him in, in despite to the Hollanders, for General Words his sake, who being set over the Zealand forces by those of Amsterdam, lately affronted Vriebergens Son who was a Colonel, at the head of his Regiment. I was entertained at Middleburg very courteously by Mr. Hill the Minister, who also sent his Kinsman with me to Flussing. Flissinga or Vlussing, hath Stonewalls towards the Sea, and Mudworks towards the Land; a very good Port, and a strong Town; the waves of the Sea washing its walls; it was one of the first Towns which the Low Country men took from the Spaniards, in the year 1572, and was made Cautionary to Queen Elizabeth together with Rammakins and the Briel. 1585. The renowned Sr. Philip Sidney being the first Governor of it, and surrendered by King James to the United states. 1616. The Sea shore here abouts is not only faced with rushes, flags and reeds staked down as high as the Tide usually ariseth, but it is also strongly bound over with Osiers and hurdles and great Posts driven in to break the force of the Water, and secure the Piles which make the Harbour or Havens mouth. The Townhouse is handsomely built, standing in the Piazza, having three rows of Pillars in the Front one above another; the Lower Doric, the second jonick, and the highest Corinthian; and on the top there is a Gallery or Balcony to Discover ships at Sea. This is the third Port for the East- India trade; Amsterdam and Rotterdam being the first and second: here lay many great ships in the middle of the Town, and considerable men of War, as the St. Patrick, and the Admiral of Zealand: we saw them also building of divers ships, and when the Prince was here, they Launched one to divertise him, to which he gave the name of William Frederick, they also presented him with a Golden Bottle; that being the Arms of the Town: the Prince Landed at Armuyden and went from thence to Tergoes, and thence to Breda; they reported his entertainment in Walcheren amounted to fifty thousand Guldens. The Women in this Island wear most of them red Cloth and straw-Hats, if a Man dies a great bundle of Straw is laid at the Door, if a Boy, a little one, if a Woman, the straw lies on the left side of the Door: when any Woman is brought to bed; they fasten a piece of Lawn to the ring and rapper of the Door; and make it up into a little baby or puppet finely pleated, and in such manner, as to distinguish of what sex the young Child is.  
Returning to Middleburg by Land I observed there was a row of Trees round the Town between the moat and rampart, where ordinarily there is only a breast-worke or a hedge, and embarked at Middleburg again, and passed down the River by the fort Rammakins, and so for the Schelde, Sailing up that noble River till we had passed the Fort Frederick Henrick and came to Lillo; where we stayed till the Vessel was searched. Over against Lillo, lieth another Fortification, called Lifgens hock; the Fort de la croix is the last that belongeth to the Hollanders, and lieth on the North side of the River; the Banks are cut nigh to it, and the Country drowned for its greater security. The Spanish Forts hereabouts to defend the Frontiers, are the Philip, the Pearl, and the Maria.  
The River Scaldis or Scheld mentioned by Caesar is a gallant River, affording plenty of fish, and convenience for Navigation and passage unto several noted places: It ariseth in the Country of Vermandois, passing to Cambray, Valencienne, so to Tournay or Dornick, Oudenard, Gaunt, Rupelmond and Antwerp, and pursuing its course is afterwards divided into two streams, whereof the Southern is called the Hont; the other runs by Bergen ap Zome, and so into the Sea between the Isles of Zealand.  
The next day morning we went on our Voyage still up the Scaldis or Schelde, and arrived at Antwerp. Where I had the good fortune to see Mr. Hartop; one very well known in all those parts and of high esteem for his personal strength and valour. A Gentleman also so courteous that he makes it his business to oblige strangers; he showed me many curiosities in this City, carrying me with him in his Coach.  
The Walls of Antwerp are very large, faced with Brick and freestone, having diurs rows of Trees upon them, broad walks, and conveniences for the Coaches, to make their tour upon. The Bastions are not so large as generally they build now a days, yet after the modern way. The Ditch is very broad and deep, the Country about it, all Gardens. The Citadel is a regular fortification of five Bastions, wherein lies always a Garrison of Spanish Soldiers: upon every curtain there are two mounts or Cavaliers; and between them below, a row of building or lodgings for the Soldiers; the ears of the Bastions are cut down, and Casamates made, and Palisadoes set round upon the Esplanade; the Walls are lined with excellent Brick and stone, nor is there any where a more regular beautiful Fortification of five Bastions that is finished: it commands the City, the River and the Country: besides this Citadel there is another Fort within the Town near the Scheld, to command the River, having eight Guns in it, called St. Laurence Fort.  
The Exchange is handsome, supported by 36 Pillars every one of a different carving, four streets lead unto it, so that standing in the middle we see through every one of them. The Mere or Largest street is considerable for the water running under it, and for the meeting of Coaches upon it every evening to make their tour through the streets of the City, which are clean and beautiful; at one end of it stands a large Brass Crucifix upon a Pedestal of Marble. The Jesuits Church goeth far beyond any of that bigness that I have seen out of Italy. The Front is noble, with the Statue of Ignatius Loyola on the top, A great part of the inside of the Roof was painted by Rubens, and some of it by Van Dyke: there be many Excellent pieces of flowers done by Segers a jesuite; the Carving and gild of all the works is exquisite: The Library of the College is great, & the Books disposed handsomely into four Chambers; the Founder hereof was Godfridus Houtappel, whose Monument, together with his Wife and Children are worth the seeing, in a Chapel on the South side of this Church. In the Church of the Carmelites is a large Silver Statue of our Lady, and models of Cities in stone. Onsar Lieven Vrowen Kerck, or the Church of our blessed Lady is the greatest in the City; and the Steeple one of the fairest in the World, five hundred foot high: one of their feet is eleven of our inches; so as it is 459 of our feet. In this Church there is much Carving, and a great number of Pictures highly esteemed, among which one piece is much taken notice of, drawn by Quintin, at first a Smith, who made the neat Iron work of the Well before the West door; and afterwards to obtain his Mistress, he proved a famous Painter; his head is set up in Stone at the entrance of the Church, with an inscription and this verse.  Connubialis amor de Mulcibre fecit Apellem. 
I was at the famous Abbey of St. Michael, pleasantly seated upon the Scheld; where among other curiosities, I saw a glass, which represented the Pictures of our Saviour and the Virgin Mary, collected from the Putting together of divers other heads: One was represented from a Picture wherein were thirteen faces, and another from one of twelve; over the blessed Virgin was this Inscription.  Diva nitet variis expressa Maria Figuris. 
The Countess of Brabant's Tomb, who was drowned, and her Statue, as also the Monument of Ortelius, are here shown. Macarius Simoneus was then Abbot, the Monks 63. Near unto the Wharf-gate is the Church of St. Walburgis an English Saint, who contributed much towards the conversion of these Countries.  
The Townhouse is fair, the House built for the East-country Merchants is very stately and large, but runneth now to ruin, in this I saw among other curiosities, divers strange Musical instruments, which at present are not understood, or at least not made use of: The Hessen house hath been also formerly considerable. The water which they make use of in Brewing, is brought by an Aqueduct from Herentall about thirty miles distant from hence; and is conveyed into the Town by a large Channel, peculiarly walled in by itself where it passeth the Ditch; in this City are many good Collections of Pictures both Ancient and Modern, and excellent Miniature or Limning by Gonsol, one fine piece, which I saw was peculiarly remarkable, it being the work of 35 several Masters.  
From Antwerp, I passed to Brussels by water, changing Boats five times, and going through divers locks, by reason that the Country is so much higher about Brussels, and the water above two hundred foot lower at Antwerp. At Fontaine a league and half from Brussels, three Rivers cross one another: one of them being carried over a bridge. The Piazza of Brussels is fair. and oblong in figure upon one of the longest sides stands the Townhouse, and over against it the Kings-house, where upon a Scaffold hanged with Velvet, Count, Fgmond and Horn were beheaded, the whole Piazza being hanged with Black Cloth. Upon the top of the Townhouse, stand: St. Michael the Patron of the City in Brass, Count Marsins house formerly belonging to the Prince of Orange; hath a fair Court, and overlooks a good part of the City, but a quarter of it is ruined by Lightning. The Thunder bolt or Stone which they affirm to have effected it, is bigger than two men's heads, and hangs up upon the door at the entrance. The jesuites Church is handsome, and in it the fair white Tower is beautifully gilded at the top. The Carmelites Church hath a noble Altar, and near unto the Church is the Statue of a pissing boy, which is a continual Conduit. The Armoury was well furnished, as we were informed, before the Governors of the low Countries sold the Arms; and Cassel Roderigo the Governor left it very bare. There remains the Armour of Charles the fifth, of Duke Albert, of the Prince of Parma, Ernestus, and of the Duke d'Alva and of the Duke Albert's horse who being shot saved his Master, and died the same day twelve month; Spears for the hunting the wild Boar, one with two Pistols; The Armour of Cardinal Infante, and of an Indian King; A Polish musket which carrieth six hundred paces; Charles the Fifth's Sword for the making the Knights of the Golden Fleece, and Henry the Fourth's Sword sent to declare war; Good Bucklers for Defence, and some well wrought; especially one with the Battle of Pyrrhus and his Elephants; and Banners taken with Francis King of France, at the Battle of Pavia.  
Somewhat like Godfrey of bovillon's shooting the three Pigeons near the Tower of David, is the shot which Infanta Isabel made, when with an Arrow she killed a Bird, in memory whereof, a Bird pierced with an Arrow is set upon the top of a Tower in the Count, which is large; and if the New Buildings and Design were continued, it would be very handsome. Before the Court stand five brass Statues. The Park is pleasant, with Trees set in order, and adorned with Grottoes, Fountains, and Water-works, which come very near the Italian; one piece somewhat imitating Frascati, in which all Musical Instruments are imitated, and a perpetual motion attempted: and on the Front of the Buildings stand the Caesar's head. But the Echo is most remarkable; which may perfectly be distinguished to ten or twelve Replies. The greatest Church is that of St. Gudula; in which is her Statue, the Devil striving to blow out the Light of her Lantern. Two Chapels therein are remarkable; the one built by Leopoldus, very fair on the outside: the other towards the North, hath been visited by five Kings, in which is the Host which bled being stabbed by the Jews. In the Dominican Church is the Monument of the Duke of Cleve and his Duchess, in Gorinthian brass. But for a New Church that of the Begennes, or Pious Maids, is very considerable; there being Eight hundred of them in this City, who have a particular place allotted to them, where they have built this milk white Church. The Plague was much in this place at that time, three hundred Houses being shut up, and a Garland placed on the doors, in the middle of which † was written IHS. I saw the English Nunnery, and other considerable Buildings. And after I had refreshed myself at the Fish-Tavern, which is worth the seeing, especially for two Rooms in it, furnished from top to bottom with very good Pictures, I returned to Antwerp.  
Octob. 4. I traveled through an open Country, and lodged at Molin bruslè. The Spanish Soldiers met us upon the Road this day, some of them well mounted and armed, and begged of us, and were well satisfied with a small Benevolence. The next day we entered the Country of Liege, and passed great Heaths, and on the Sixth, in the morning, arrived at Maestreicht.  
Trajectum ad Mosam, or Maestreicht, is a strong Town, seated upon the Maes, four Leagues below Liege. The Outworks are very considerable; the Wall is old. Towards the Southeast lieth a Hill, which ariseth gently, and overlooks part of the Town. Under this Hill is one of the noblest Quarries of Stone in the World. To secure the Town from the disadvantage it might receive from this Hill, there was formerly a Fort built upon it, but it hath been long since slighted; and they have made out an Horn-work within Musket-shot of it, and the Bastion answering to it is made very high, to cover the Town. On the other side of the River standeth Wicke, very well fortified also, and rather stronger than Maestreicht, into which they might retire if the Town should be taken by Storm, it being united to Maestreicht by a handsome Bridge over the Maes, consisting of Nine Arches. All about Wicke the Country is flat: there are many Inhabitants in it, and a handsome Glass house.  
The private Houses of Maestreicht are generally covered with a black Slat, or Ardoise, otherwise not very beautiful. The Town house is fair, seated in one of the Piazza's, built of white Stone; it hath Nine large Windows in a row on each side, and within is very well painted by Theodorus van der Schuer, who was Painter to the Queen of Sweden. In another Piazza is a Fountain, rows of Trees, and the great Church. This Town was besieged and taken from the King of Spain by the Confederate States, in the year 1632.  
October the Seventh I dined at Gallop, a small place, and came that night to Aken, Aix la Chapelle, or Aquisgrane, an ancient noble City, the Inhabitants Courteous, and much frequented by reason of its hot Baths, of which I shall speak more particularly in my Journey from Colen to London. Leaving Aken I traveled towards Juliers or Gulick, but it being late before we arrived, the Gates were shut up, so as we went only under the Walls, leaving it on our right hand. Near unto Gulick runneth a shallow swift River, called the Roer. At the Mouth of it, where it falleth into the Maes, is seated a considerable Town, called Roermonde, through which I passed in the year 1673. when Sir Lionel Jenkins and Sir Joseph Williamson were sent Plenipotentiaries to Cologne, in our Journey from Antwerp to that City. We than passed the Country of Brabant, by the way of Thornhaut, Weert, Roermonde, and the next Night passing by Erkelens, lodged at Castro, or Caster, in Gulickland, where there are still the remains of an old Castle, formerly built for the Defence of that part of the Country. Roermonde is seated upon a rising Hill, near the River Roer, hath a College of Jesuits in it, a handsome Piazza, and an old Abbey with divers Monuments very ancient, founded by Gerard Earl of Guelderland. From this Town their Excellencies were saluted with the Guns from their Walls, charged with Bullets. The Spaniards in most places striving to express the highest of their respects.  
From Gulick I traveled to Cologne, where I arrived October the 10th, 1668.   

A JOURNEY FROM COLEN TO VIENNA.  
COlen, Coln, or Colonia Agrippina, was anciently the Capital City of the Ubii, a people who were at first possessed of the Countries now called Berg and March, but being over run by the Germans next to them, Agrippa, Lieutenant of Gallia, received them into protection, and placed them upon this side of the Roman shore of the Rhine, where they built this place, and called it Oppidum Ubiorum, and the Romans seating themselves here for the defence of the Country, in Honour of Agrippina, daughter to Germanicus, and wife to Claudius, whose Birth-place it was, gave it afterwards the Name of Colonia Agrippina. It is at present one of the largest, if not the greatest, of any City in Germany, secured towards the Land by a high Wall, and two deep Trenches, and towards the Water by a Wall of Stone. The Rhine renders it delightful upon one side, and divers rows of Trees enclose the Town towards the Land. They have some Outworks, as Halfmoons and Ravelins, but their best security is in the great number of men which they are able to raise within themselves. Many of the Streets are broad, and paved with broad stones.  
It received the Christian Faith very early, and Maternus was their Bishop above 1350 years since, who subscribed, amongst others, to the Council of Arles. They have a great number of Churches, and well endowed, which take up a great part of the Town; The prebend's and Canons Houses having in many places Vineyards, and large Gardens adjoining. Towards the North end of the Town, the Church of St. Kunibald is considerable. The Convent of the Dominicans is fair, and newly built, with a Garden in the Court, and all the Chambers uniform. The Jesuits Church is well built and stored with rich Copes, Altar-pieces, and other Ornaments. In the Church of St. Gereon, a Saint of great name here, martyred about Colen in the time of Maximianus, are about a thousand Saints heads, and on each side of the Altar a large Statue, whereof one is of a Moor; and under the Choir another Church. The Convent of the Carmelites is also considerable, wherein the Treaty of Peace was held with good accommodation in it, though with no success, in the year 1673. In the Church of St. Ursula is her Tomb, and the Tombs of divers of the Eleven thousand Virgins, martyred by the Huns. Upon the Monument of St. Ursula is this Inscription; Sepulcrum Sanctae Ursulae indicio Columbae detectum. Upon many of the Tombs which are old are Crosses and Lamps. Many Bones and Heads of the Martyrs are also kept in this Church. The Cathedral is dedicated to St. Peter, and is very large, but not finished. The Body of the Church hath four rows of Pillars within it. The Choir is handsome and very high: behind it are believed to be the Tombs of the three Wise men which came from the East to worship our Saviour, or the Kings of Arabia, of whom it was prophesied that they should bring Gifts, commonly called the three Kings of Colen: Melchior, who offered Gold, Gaspar Frankincense, and Balthasar Myrrh. Their Bodies, as the account goeth, were first removed to Constantinople by Helena the Mother of Constantine the Great; then to Milan by Eustorfius Bishop thereof; and they have now rested at Colen for above five hundred years, being translated from Milan hither by Rainoldus Bishop of Colen, in the year 1164. There are also divers other Monuments of Bishops, and Noble Persons in Brass and Stone, and one in the shape of a Castle with six Towers. The Canons of this Church are all Noblemen; among whom the Duke of Newburg, who ordinarily resides at Dusseldorff, about twenty English miles below this City, upon the Rhine, hath two Sons. In a Church dedicated to all the Apostles, they show a Tomb, which being opened by Thiefs, intending to plunder it, the woman buried in it arose up and went home, and lived with her Husband divers years after. In one of the Streets is a Tower, or rather one Tower upon another, which seems to be ancient, now made a Prison. Upon another Ruin also in the Streets lies a Tombemade out of one Stone; of which sort of Tombs there are many in this City and other places; but the greatest number of them I ever saw was at Arles in Provence.  
The Senate House is Noble, having a fair Tower upon it, from whence there is a good prospect over the City. Upon the Front of the Senate House is a Man in Basso relievo, fight with a Lion, who, as it was related to me, was formerly one of the Consuls, who having had a contest with some Clergymen about the Government of the City, on a sudden they caused a Lion to be let in upon him: upon which occasion he behaved himself so well, as he delivered himself, and slew the Lyon.  
The Elector or Archbishop of Colen hath two Palaces in the City, but by agreement between him and the Town, he is not to stay here above three days together. Only this present Archbishop, upon the coming down of the Imperial Forces, and his loss of Bonna, took Sanctuary here in the Convent of St. Pantaleon, where he continued a great while.  
The City is Imperial and Free, and yet it doth Homage to the Elector, much after this Form: We free Citizens of Colen promise to the Archbishop, to be faithful and favourable unto him as long as he preserves us in Right and Honour, and in our ancient Privileges, Us, our Wives, our Children, and our City of Colen. Most of the City are of the Roman Church, and the whole Town so full of Convents, Churches, Churchmen and Relics, that it is not undeservedly styled the Rome of Germany. The Lutherans have also a Church within the Walls, and the Calvinists at Mulheim, half a League down the Stream on the other side of the Rhine.  
Over against Colen lieth Dútz, a small Village, inhabited chief by Jews. The Vessels which come out of the Low-Countries hither are long, round bellied, and of great burden. Near to the Wall of the Town, upon the Quay or Key, is a kind of Harbour made for them, into which they may be drawn, and escape the Injuries they would otherwise suffer by the Ice in Winter.  
Besides the rich Clergy, there are many wealthy Citizens and Merchants here, and they maintain a Traffic and Correspondence with divers Countries, especially by the convenience of the Rhine. They speak not the best High-dutch; but Latin and French are understood by many: Divers Hosts in Inns speak Latin, and the Servants French; which proves a good help unto Travellers. It was made an University about the year 1388. Besides the General Hospitals for young and old persons, there are two for the Sick, and well accommodated. They have a Pharmacopaea Coloniensis, or a Dispensatory proper to the place, whereby Apothecaries compound their Medicines. I was acquainted with one of the best, Mr. Elburg, a knowing and obliging person, who was his Majesty's Apothecary while he resided at Colen, and whom my honoured Friend Sir Alexander Fraser, his Majesty's chief Physician, made use of, who lived in great reputation in this City.  
Two hundred years since Aeneas Silvius left an high expression concerning this place, Coloniâ quae de conjuge Claudii matre Neronis, Agrippina dicta est, & trium Magorum ossibus illustrata, nihil magnificentius, nihil ornatius, totâ Europâ reperias: which though, if strictly construed, will hardly be admitted by any who hath beheld Paris, Naples, Venice, etc. yet doth it declare the nobleness of this City, even in former times.  
We left Colen about four a Clock in the Afternoon, being drawn up the Stream with Horses, they being made fast by a very long Rope to the Mast; we lodged in a small Village, having had a good prospect of Colen all this Evening from off the water. Near to this Place Julius Caesar made his Bridge over the Rhine. The next day we came to Bon, the Seat of the present Archbishop and Elector of Colen, Maximilianus Henricus, Duke of Bavaria, Bishop of Hildisheim and Liege, and Arch-Chancellor of the Empire throughout Italy. This place was formerly called Bonna, or Castra Bonnensia, the wintering place, in the time of Tacitus of the sixth Legion. It was not long since very well fortified by the order of the present Archbishop, and the direction of Colonel Biser, a blind man, having Cataracts in both his eyes. The Archbishop's Palace is very Noble, and there is a Chamber seated a good way into the Rhine, to which they pass thorough a Gallery. This Night we lodged at the foot of the highest of the seven Hills by the Rhine, which are seen at a great distance; and upon divers of them stand old ruined Castles. On the 15th we passed by a pleasant Island with a Convent in it: at Remagen is also a Convent upon a Rock, fortified with round Towers. In the Evening we lodged near to a Castle, ruined four years before by the Electors of Triers and Colen, it belonging at that time to the Duke of Lorraine. On the 16th early in the Morning we came to Andernach, where the plague was very much at that time, and they kept a great many of their sick in Boats upon the Rhine.  
Andernach, of old Antenacum, was one of the Roman Fortresses. Upon this River, some think that Caligula was born, and that Valentinian was buried hereabouts. Near unto this place are also Mineral Springs, well frequented, and much made use of. The Town is encompassed with an old Wall; and the Gates were shut up by reason of the Plague: Notwithstanding, there being divers Friars in our company, several of the Townsmen sent out dishes of Meat to them, which we eat in the Field upon Trees which were laid along near the Town. This day the passage by water seeming tedious to us, Mr. Mulstroth, a worthy Germane Gentleman, with whom I traveled as far as Spire, was willing we should hire a Coach together, which we did, and invited the Friars with whom we had breakfasted, to go along with us in it to Coblentz. We passed through a very pleasant Country, between rows of Walnut-trees, in sight of two of the Elector of Triers' Houses, and near to a House belonging to the Count de Wert.  
We passed the Mosella over a hand some Stone-bridge of thirteen Arches, built by Archbishop Baldus, or Balduinus, in the year 1344. and coming into the Town, we went to the Dominican Convent, which is pleasantly seated near the Banks of the River Mosella; but the Prior of the Convent, whom we had brought with us, was so obliging, that he would not part with us that night; and we were very civilly entertained by him in his Lodgings: He invited also some of the Convent to bear us company; and after a handsome Supper, with plenty of excellent Moselle wine, we went to bed between two Featherbeds.  
Coblentz, or Confluentia, is a Town of a Triangular Figure, seated at the meeting of two great Rivers, the Rhine and the Mosella, which make two sides thereof, and the third is made by a Line drawn from one River to the other; which is now well fortified after the most regular Modern way. The Wall within these Works had many old high Towers; and formerly there was another still nearer to the uniting of the Rivers, and consequently containing a less space of ground. This Town is under the Elector and Archbishop of Triers, Carolus Caspar, of the Noble Family of the Leyens, Arch-Chancellour for the Empire in Gallia Belgica, and the Kingdom of Arles. It was given to the Church of Triers when Medoaldus was Archbishop above a thousand years since, in the time of King Dagobert. The Situation is pleasant and convenient, and lieth over against the Castle of Hermanstein, or Ehrenbreitstein, that is, The Stone of far extended Honour; at the foot of which Castle, upon the shore of the Rhine, under a great Rock, stands a very Noble Palace of the Electors, two large Wings and the Front with five Pavilions standing towards the River, and from it a long Bridge of Boats over the Rhine to Coblentz: when any great Vessel passeth by, they let slip three Boats, whereby the passage lieth open, and make them fast again afterwards. In the Germane wars the Spaniards thrust in a Garrison into this Town; which was afterwards beaten out by the Rhinegrave for the King of Sweden; and the strong Castle of Ethrenbrietstein being put into the hands of the French, the Emperor's Forces seized upon the Archbishop of Triers, who then was Philippus Christophorus, and carried him away to Vienna.  
In places where the Rhine runneth through a low Country and a fat Soil, it washeth away the Banks: to secure which, in divers places they have made great Works of Wood, and also to secure Vessels from the danger of the Ice. And I remember, riding near the Banks of the River Loire in France, I observed them in some places to be handsomely defended for a long way together with Freestone.  
Near unto Coblentz, upon a Hill, is a Convent of Carthusians. October the 17th we went up the Rhine to Boppart, a walled Town, upon the western bank, where Van Trump was at that time: It is a very old Town, one of the Roman Fortresses against the Germans, called anciently Bodobriga; some would have it called Bopport from Beauport, Fair-haven, or Bonport, a good convenient place for Vessels to retire into, or to ride in.  
On the 18th we dined at St. Guer, a pleasant Town belonging to the Landtgrave of Hesse, who hath a Castle here. Coming on shore we met with an odd custom: for upon the Wall side there is fastened a Collar of Brass at present, but was formerly of Lead, and given by Charles the Fifth; into this most Strangers that come put their Necks, at which time they ask them, Whether they will be sprinkled with water, or drink wine? and if they choose the latter, they give an entertainment of wine to the Company. The Queen of Sweden passing by this place, gave a great Silver Cup, out of which they now drink at this Ceremony. We lodged this night at Wesel, a Town situated between a high Hill and the River, belonging to the Archbishop of Triers. Here in the Marketplace they show us the print of St. Hubert's Horses foot in a Freestone.  
On the 19th we came to Baccharach, or ad Bacchi arras, belonging to the Elector Palatine; a place famous for Excellent Wines. We passed by an old Castle seated upon a Rock in the middle of the Rhine, being of an irregular figure, called Pfalts, where formerly the Prince Palatines of the Rhine were born, the Princess' being sent hither to be brought to Bed. We came this night to Dreickshausen; the next day we went by a dangerous Passage, there being many Rocks under water, which cause the River to run very rapid and unequally. A little above this we came to a round Tower, on a Rock in the Rhine, called the Mouse-tower, built by Hatto Archbishop of Mentz, in the year 900. who, as the Story goeth, in a time of great Scarcity, pretending to relieve the poor who wanted bread, invited them together into a Barn, where he burned them all, saying, They were like the Rats and Mice which would devour the Corn. After which he was so persecuted with Rats and Mice, that to avoid them he caused this Tower to be built in the middle of the Rhine, which did not avail him, for they followed him thither also, and at last devoured him. A little above this lieth Bing upon the Western shore; a considerable Town, belonging to the Elector of Mentz: here our Boat stayed to pay Custom, as it had done also at Bonna, Liutz, Hammerstein, Andernach, Coblentz, Lodesheim, Bopport, St. Gower, Cub, and Baccharach. For the trade of the Rhine being great, Princes and Lords, who have Towns upon it, make use of that advantage, which, though it abateth the gains of the Merchant, brings considerable profit to themselves.  
B'ing, or Bingium, was an old Roman Fortress upon the Rhine, where the River Navus or Naw entereth into it; over which latter there is a handsome Stone-bridge: In this Town were many of the Duke of Lorrain's Army sick and wounded, who three weeks before had maintained a fight against the Forces of the Elector Palatine, near this place. From Bing we continued our Journey to Mentz: at Rudesheim in Rhinegaw, a place noted for good Wine, they shown us a Boy, whose hair was thick and woolly, like to the African-Moors, but of a fine white colour, which being somewhat an odd sight, I took away some of his hair with me.  
Mentz, Moguntia, Moguntiacum, and by the French Mayence, is seated over against the Confluence of the River Main, with the Rhine, or rather a little below it; in a fertile Country, abounding in all Provisions and good Wine; it lieth at length, and is most extended towards the River; and that part excelleth the other towards the Land, which is not so populous or well-built: It is a strong place, and well guarded; it hath many Churches and Monasteries, and some fair Buildings, especially those of public concern, as the Palace of the Elector, and others: But the narrowness of the Streets, and many old Houses, take away much from the beauty of the City. It is an University, begun about the year 1486. or as others will have it 1461. This place also challengeth the Invention of Printing, or at least the first promotion or perfection thereof: And the Territory about it is famous for the destruction of the Roman Legions under Varus, by the Germans. Gustaphus Adolphus, King of Sweden, was wonderfully pleased upon the taking of this City, 1631. entering into it in State upon the 14th of December, it being his Birthday, which began the 38th year of his life, and kept his Court and Christmas here; where at one time there were with him six chief Princes of the Empire, twelve Ambassadors of Kings, States, Electors, and Princes; besides Dukes and Lords, and the Martial men of his own Army. At the taking of the Town, they found great store of Ordnance and Powder; and the City redeemed itself from Pillage by giving the King a Ransom of Eighty thousand Dollars; and the Clergy and Jews gave Two and twenty thousand more, of which the Jews paid Eighteen thousand; Archbishop Wambold saving himself upon the Rhine, and retiring to Colen. The King caused also two great Bridges to be made, one over the Main, founded upon fifteen great flat bottomed Boats, the rest being built upon great Piles of Wood: Another over the Rhine supported by sixty one great flat Boats, each lying the distance of an Arch from one another; and many Families of people living sometimes in the Boats under the Bridge. The Bridge over the Main is taken away; but that over the Rhine is still continued: Upon which I saw the present Elector passing in his Coach; a Person of great Gravity, of a middle Stature, having long grey Hair, and was very Princely attended; his Name Joannes Philippus of the Noble Family of Schoenburg, Elector and Archbishop of Mentz Bishop of Wurtzburg, and Bishop of Worms, Arch-Chancellour of the Empire for all Germany; the first of the Electoral College; in all public Conventions he sits at the right hand of the Emperor, and is a Successor of the famous Boniface, an English man, Bishop of Mentz, who so much promoted the Christian Religion in these parts. But though his Dignity and Place excelleth the two other Ecclesiastical Electors of Colen and Triers, yet his Territories come short; and they lie not together, but scatteringly with those of the Palatinate, Spier, Franckfort, and divers places in Franconia. But of late he hath much increased his Power, by seizing the great City of Erfurdt in Turingia, which he hath since much beautified and strengthened by a Citadel built upon St. Peter's hill.  
From Mentz I passed by water up the River Main, to Franckfort, a free City of the Empire, called Trajectum Franconum, a Passage or Ford of the Franks, as serving them for a Retreat, when they entered or returned from Gaul; at present Frankford upon the Main, to difference it from Frankford upon the River Oder, which is an University: It is a large Town, divided into two parts by the River; the lesser called Saxonhausen, or Saxon-houses, united to the other by a Stone-bridge over the Main, of twelve or thirteen Arches. It is a place of good Trade, and well seated for it, as having the advantage of the River Main, which passeth by Bamberg, Schweinfurt, Wurtzburg, Guemund, or Gaudia mundi; and also the Tauber, and other Rivers running into it, affordeth conveniency for Commerce with the remoter parts of Franconia; and the Main running into the Rhine, makes a large communication both up and down that Stream.  
But this place is most remarkable for the Election of the Emperor, which, by the Laws of the Golden Bull, should be in this City, as also for two great Marts or Fairs kept in March and September; at which times there is an extraordinary concourse of people from remote parts, in order to buying and selling of several Commodities, especially for Books, as well printed here as in other parts, whereof they afford two Catalogues every year, and have no small deal that way, by the Factors of the Germans, Hollanders, Italians, French, and English: although at other times their trading in Books seems not great; for when I was there out of the time of the Mart, the Stationer's Shops being shut up, made but a dull show. Here are also a great number of good Horses bought and sold: and on the North-side of the City there is a spacious place for a Horse-Fair. The City is strong and well fortified; and most part of the Town are Lutherans. In the Germane wars, the King of Sweden having taken Hanaw, sent a Messenger to Franckfort to know whether the City would peaceably and speedily set open their Gates unto him, and accept fairly of a Garrison, or stand to the hazard of a Siege: And although they were unwilling to yield, yet for fear of the worst, they consented, That the King should have free passage for his Army through the City; and that for the better assurance of it, six hundred of his men should be received for a Garrison into Saxonhausen; and also that the Magistrates and People should take an Oath unto his Majesty. So that upon the 17th of November, 1631. the King's Army passed through Saxonhausen over the Bridge, quite through the Town. Colonel Vitzthumb was left Governor in Saxonhausen; and the King himself road bareheaded through the Streets: and by his obliging behaviour did generally win the affections of the beholders; and three days after returned thither again with the Landtgrave of Hessen-Cassell, and the Landtgrave of Hessen-Darmstadt, where they met the Seventeen Earls of the Wetteraw, or Veteravia, and were feasted in the same room where the Emperors at their Coronation use to be entertained.  
In Saxonhausen there is a House anciently belonging unto the Knights of the Teutonick Order, which hath the privilege of a Sanctuary for Man-slayers and Bankrupts; but it is a security but for fourteen days. Upon this side there is the largest portion of Land belonging to Franckfort; on the other side very little.  
This being a trading place, it is no wonder that there are so many Jews in it; for a distinction they wear great Ruffs, their Sons Bonnets, and their Wives a peculiar dress of their Head.  
The Collegiate Church of St. Bartholomew, where many of the Emperors have been crowned, is large, hath a high Steeple, and is built of a red stone. There are divers handsome Fountains in the Town, and good Houses; in one of the best of which liveth Monsieur Pierre Neufville, a great Merchant, and a civil worthy person, well known in most places of Commerce; who obliged me with Letters to Venice, and other places.  
From Franckfort I continued my Journey through the Bergstraes', passing by Darmstadt, which belongs to one of the Brothers of the House of Hessen, commonly known by the name of the Landtgrave of Hessen Darmstadt; and afterwards through a fruitful plain Country, in the sight of Hills, and sometimes near them: the whole Country planted with Wallnut-trees, Vines, Corn, and in some places with Tobacco; till I arrived at Heidelberg.  
In coming into this Town we passed over the River Neccar, Nicer, or Necarus, upon a Bridge covered over from one end to another, with a large Roof of Wood: in the same manner is the long Bridge covered at the entrance of the City of Alessandria della paglia in Italy.  
The River Neccar ariseth near the Sylva Martiana, now Swartzwald, or Black Forest, and passing through the Territories of the Duke of Wittenberg, runneth into the Rhine at Manheim: This, though none of the greatest, yet is a considerable River of Germany; and hath divers good Towns upon it and near it, as Sultz, Tubingen, Wirtingen, Essingen, Stutgard, Canstat, Lauffen, Hallbrun, Heidelberg.  
There being wars at that time when I was in this Country, between the Elector Palatine and the Duke of Lorain: The Elector resided for the most part at Frankendale, to be near his Forces.  
Heidelberg is seated on the Southside of the River Neccar, between it and a ridge of high Hills, so as it cannot well admit of a modern Fortification, or hope to be extraordinary strong, as being over-looked by the adjacent Mountains: It lieth most at length from East to West: It hath been an University since the year 1346. at which time it was begun by Rupertus, Count Palatine, and at present is much frequented. In the great Church was kept the famous Library, which, after that the Spaniards had taken this Town 1620. was carried to Rome, and added to the Vatican, where I saw it in the year 1664. being placed upon one side of a very long Gallery belonging to the Vatican Library; and the Duke of Urbin's Library placed on the otherside, over-against it: both which made a notable addition to the Papal Library. In this Church and the Church also of St. Peter, are divers Monuments of Princes of the Palatine Family, and of Learned and Famous Men. The French have a Church here, and the present Elector is of the Order of the Holy Ghost; and his Son a Marshal of France: and good French and High-dutch are both generally spoken here. The Lutherans have also a Church in this Town, by the favour of the present Elector; although he himself be a Calvinist: and to express his generous kindness the higher in this point, the first Stone was laid by himself and his Son; and it is called the Church of Providence, according to the Elector's Motto, Dominus Providebit.  
Upon the Townhouse is a Clock with divers Motions, and when the Clock strikes, the figure of an Old man pulls off his hat, a Cock crows, and shakes his wings, Soldiers fight with one another, and the like. The Prince's Stables for above a hundred Horses are seated upon the River very conveniently, but were fairer formerly, above half thereof having been ruined by the Imperialists; as also divers of the Statues on the outside of the Castle, which is seated high above the Town.  
The present Elector is Carolus Ludovicus, Son to the King of Bohemia, Frederick the Fifth; he was born in the year 1617. and passed his Youth an Exile from his Father's Kingdom and Electorate: and at the pacification at Prague 1635. he was excluded from any restitution to be made to him. But at length, in the Treaty of Munster 1648. he was restored to the lower Palatinate, and 1652. returned to the possession of his Fortunes: a highly accomplished Prince, much honoured and beloved by his Subjects. In the year 1650. he married Charlotta, Daughter to William the Fifth, Landgrave, and to the famous Amelia Elizabeth, Landgravess of Hassia; by whom he had the Chur Prince, or Electoral Prince Charles, and a Daughter, the Princess Charlotta Elizabetha; but upon some discontent the Princess Electress since returned to her own Friends and Country. This Elector is also Knight of the most Noble Order of the Garter, Great Treasurer of the Empire, and together with the Elector of Saxony, Vicar of the Empire.  
In his Palace or Castle at Heidelberg, are divers things remarkable; a very great Tower to be equalled by very few; within which is a Theatre for Comedies. This was formerly called Trutzkaisar, or the Tower that bad Defiance, or threatened the Emperor; but since the Restauration of the Elector, there are some Works drawn about it in the figure of a Star, and the old disobliging Name is by Proclamation forbidden to be continued, and it is at present called the Sternschanz, or the Star-fort. By it is a handsome Garden; in the Ditch whereof there was then kept a great Bear, and a very large Wolf. The Grottoes and Water-works are very handsome: they were also making divers others, having the advantage of the side of the Hill to bring down the water, and to make Grots and Caves in the Rock. Amongst other Fountains, that of the Lion's head with a Frog in his Ear, is taken notice of. The Cellars are very large and cool, filled with Vessels of no ordinary size; yet inconsiderable, if compared to the great Tun kept in a great Building joining to the Cellars; it was built by this present Elector's Order, 1664. and goeth far beyond any made before: It contains 204 Faiders and odd measure, or about two hundred Tuns: instead of Hoops it is built with large knee Timber, like the ribs of a Ship, which are painted and carved, and have divers Inscriptions upon them, and supported by carved Pedestals. Upon one side of it is a handsome Staircase to ascend to the top of the Vessel; upon the top of which is a Gallery set round with Balisters, three and forty steps high from the ground.  
About an English mile from Heidelberg, between the Hills, is a solitary place, where three large Streams or Springs gush out of the Mountain, and presently fill five Ponds, have three handsome Cascates or Falls, and after run into the Plain, and are strong enough in a small space to turn four Mills; this is called Wolfsbrun, or the Wolf's Fountain, from a Princess who formerly retired into a Cave in this desert place, and was here devoured by a Wolf.  
While I was at Heidelberg, two English men came kindly to me, Mr. Villers, and Timothy Middleton, belonging to Lobensfeldt Cloister, a Convent formerly of the Jesuits, but since let out to about an hundred English, who left their Country 1661. came up the Rhine, and by the permission of the Elector, settled themselves a few miles from hence, living altogether, men, women, and children, in one House; and having a community of many things: They are of a peculiar Religion, calling themselves Christian Jews; and one Mr. Poole, formerly living at Norwich, is their Head. They cut not their Beards, and observe many other Ceremonies and Duties, which they either think themselves obliged to from some Expressions in the Old Testament, or from some New Exposition of their Leaders.  
From Heidelberg I made an excursion, and had a sight of Spire, seated in a Plain, on the Westside of the Rhine; a place of Antiquity, conceived to be Urbs Nemetum of old; a large place and populous. The King of Sweden in the Germane wars demolished the Works about it, not willing to spare so great a number of his Soldiers as was required to Garrison it, and make it good. It is an Episcopal See under the Archbishop of Mentz: there are many fair Houses in it, divers Churches, and a fair Cathedral, with four large Towers. The Romanists, the Lutherans, and Calvinists preach in it at several hours. It is the more populous, and filled with people of good quality, by reason of the concourse of persons from other parts of Germany, for the decision of Law Suits: For here the Imperial Chamber is held, and many differences which arise in the Empire are determined, and the Electors and other Princes, in some trials at Law, may be called hither. It is a settled Court, which Maximilian the First, for the better ease of all persons, placed first at Worms, and not long after it was fixed at Spire, from whence it cannot be now removed, but by the consent of all the Estates. Things Cognoscible in this Court are determined by an Imperial Judge, and sealed with the Emperor's Arms, so that there lieth no appeal unto the Emperor.  
Another day I went to Manheim, formerly a Village, seated at the Confluence of the Rhine and Neccar; but walled about by the Elector Frederick the Fourth, and since is much increased; all the Streets being large and uniform, and a Noble Citadel built; within which, over-against the Gate, the Elector designs a Palace, the Model of which I saw: and at present, on the right hand, there are three Pavilions of Lodgings: in one of which lodgeth the Elector Palatine; in another the Prince his Son; and in the third the Princess his Daughter: behind these there is a handsome Garden and Lodgings for Degen Felderen, the Churfursts Mistress. Here are some good Pictures, as a Head of Hans Holben, and a Landscape with the Story of the Union of the Swissers. The Bridge over the Moat of the Citadel into the Town, is also remarkable, as having six Draw-bridges upon it, three great ones, and three small ones on the side. There are Palisado's all along the bottom, in the middle of the Ditch, and without upon the Esplanade.  
From Heidelberg I traveled to Nurnberg in the Company of Captain Wagenseyl, who had been in the Polish and Hungarian wars, and was employed a little before in blowing up the Castle of Launsteyn, belonging to the Elector Palatine, to prevent its surprisal by the Duke of Lorraine. He was then employed to raise a Company at Nurnberg, for the Service of the Elector Palatine. I had a good advantage in my Journey by his Company; for he traveled with Authority, and was a generous, knowing, and courteous person.  
The first day we traveled near to the Neccar, in stony and rocky way; and it being dark before we came to Mospach, the Peasants conducted us from Village to Village with bundles of lighted Straw.  
The next day we came to Poxberg, where there is an old Castle, and in the afternoon reached Morkenthal, or Mergetheim, the Seat of the Grand Master of the Herrhn Deutchern, or the Teutonick Order. The Town is well-built, hath a fair Piazza, with a large Fountain in it, and a Statue of one of the Grand Masters, with a long Corridore from his Palace. This Order hath been of great Fame, and hath had large Possessions, as may be seen in the exact Account of the Teutonick Knights of Prussia, made out from the best Authors, by my worthy honoured Friend Mr. Ashmole, in his Noble Description of the Order of the Garter; and as Lewis du May, Counsellor unto the Duke of Wirtenberg, hath set it down. For the Knight's Templars and of St. John, having fought prosperously against the Infidels, raised an Emulation in some Germane Gentlemen, who waited upon the Emperor Frederick the First, in his Expedition to the Holy Land, to take the Croisado. And because they were installed in the Church and Hospital of St. Mary at Jerusalem, they were called Marianites. Their Order differed nothing from those , but in the form and colour of their Cross, and was approved by Pope Celestin the Third. Afterwards when Jerusalem was taken by Saladin, those Knights betook themselves to Ptolemais, from whence the Emperor Frederick the Second, sent them back into Germany, and employed them against the Prussians and Livonians, who at that time were still Pagans. But by the Valour and Piety of those Knights, their Souls were brought into subjection to Christ, and their Bodies to the Order which began that war in the year 1220. a little while after these Knights found themselves Masters of a Country of very large Extent, which obeyed the Order, till the year 1525. at which time Sigismond, King of Poland, gave the investiture of Prussia unto Albert Marquis of Brandenburg. In the year 1563. the Great Master became Secular again, and took a part of the Lands subject to the Order, with the name of Duke of Curland. And Livonia having been the Subject and Theatre of many wars between the Polanders, Muscovites, and Swedes; these last did at length become Masters of it, and have it in possession still. So that there is no more remaining of the Teutonick Order, but some Commanderies scattered here and there in Germany. And the Great Master hath his Seat and Residence at Mergenthal.  
They wear on a white Mantle a plain black Cross. The Dignity of Grand Master is generally held by some Great and Honourable Person; and in the Great Assembly he taketh place of all Bishops. The present is the Baron of Amring; and the Grand Master before him was Leopold William, only Brother to the Emperor Ferdinand the Third.  
From hence we traveled to Lauterbach, near which we passed through a Wood, and found a Noble Church upon the top of a high Hill, which being much frequented by Pilgrims, they have made handsome stone Stairs from the bottom to the top: then to Rotenburg, and lodged at Burgperner, and the next day by Schantzbach we came to Nurenberg. Rotenburg is an Imperial City, which some have likened unto Jerusalem for its Situation upon hilly places, and many Turrets in it. It is Situated near the head of the River Tauber, which may be accounted the second River of Franconia, passing by Rottingen, Landen, and Werthaim, where it runneth into the Main.  
Nurenberg is the fairest City that I saw in Germany; the Houses most of them of Freestone, very high; and divers of them painted on the outside, and adorned with gilded Balls on the top; many are of six or seven Stories high. Der Herr Peller hath one of the fairest. The City is very populous and full of Trade, although it stands in a barren Country, and wants a Navigable River. The three best Churches are the Hospital Church, lately built very fair; St. Laurence, which is very large, with two high Steeples in the Front; and St. Sebald the best of the three. The Body of St. Sebald being laid upon a Cart drawn with Oxen, in that place where the Oxen stood still, they buried the Body, and erected this Church in his memory. In this Church is a Crucifix of Wood, very well carved, and esteemed at a high rate. The Crucifix without the Church is very great, and of a black colour: and some fancy that the Raht Herrn, or Magistrates of the Town, have reposited a Treasure within it. The Pulpit is well carved and gilded, and the whole Church so stately, that it may pass in the first rank of Lutheran Churches; that Religion being here practised in its splendour. The Priest every morning reads the Scripture to the people for half an hour, or preacheth a Sermon. The Townhouse is well worth the seeing: In it the Hall is spacious, as also the Chambers, and furnished with good Pictures, and Stones well gilded and painted with white and gold, green and gold, dark coloured and gold, and the like. There is one Picture of most of the Great Persons in Germany entertained in the Great Hall; another of the three Brothers of Saxony; one of an Elephant as big as the life; a piece of St. John and St. Mark, and another of St. Peter and St. Paul, both by Albert Durer: but the most rare piece is that of Adam and Eve, by the same Master, with this Inscription: Albertus Durer Almang faciebat post Virginis partum, 1507. Another excellent one is that of St. Luke drawing the Picture of our Saviour and the blessed Virgin. Over the Gate at the entrance of the Shambles is a large Ox carved in Wood, and painted over, with this Inscription:  
Omnia habent ortus suaque incrementa, sed ecce  
Quem cernis, nunquam Bos fuit hic, Vitulus.  
The Castle standeth upon a high Hill, from whence the Town makes a handsome show: In it are observable a very deep well, the Emperor's Chapel, his Picture, and the Pictures of the Electors; good Night pieces; and one of a man behind a white Curtain transparent, very well expressed. The Armour of Hebbele van Gailinghen the great Sorcerer is here shown; and in the Wall of the Castle the marks of his Horses feet, when he leapt from thence over the Town ditch.  
The new Fountain was not then finished; but the statuas in Brass made for it were excellent; the Sea-Horses large, the Sea-Nymphs much bigger than the life; and Neptune, who was to stand on the top, is above three yards and a half high. When I came first into this place, I was not a little surprised to behold the fairness of the Houses, handsome Sreets, different Habits, industrious People, and neatness in all things, more than I had observed in Germane Cities before; and no place hath greater number of curious Artificers in Steel, Brass, Ivory, Wood, wherein they work at an extraordinary cheap rate; and there are Officers to inspect and inquire into the works of Artificers, that they be true, perfect, and without fraud: they make strong and handsome Clockwork. The King of Poland presented the Grand Signior with a very noble Clock, who took so much delight in it, that when it required some mending (the Turks being ignorant in Clockwork) he sent it from Adrianople as far as Nurenburg, to be set in order again.  
Gustavus Adolphus, King of Sweden, was more magnificently received and entertained in this City, than in any other of Germany; which so incensed Wallensteyn, that he afterwards encamped before their Town, and did great spoil upon their Territories: But the King of Sweden marched thither towards their Relief, and from thence towards Lutzen, where in a bloody Battle he lost his life.  
The River Pegnitz runneth through Nurnberg, and hath divers Stone Bridges over it; and below the Town, joining with the River Rednitz, runneth into the River Main at Bamberg; and the Main runs at last into the Rhine. The Reduitz ariseth at Weissenberg, and is not far from the River Altmul, which runneth into the Danube, towards Regensburg. Upon this convenience, Charles the Great designed to make a Communication of passage between the Danube and the Rhine; and made a Canale thirty paces broad between the Rednitz and the Altmul, to join those Streams for the commodity of Passage by Boat; but after he had proceeded two Germane miles in this work, Boggs, Rains, and his warlike Diversions made him give over that noble Design, whereby there might have been a Commerce by water, from the Low-Countries to Vienna, and even unto the Euxine Sea.  
The Roman Lieutenant in Nero's time, had a desire to unite the River Soane and the Mosella; and to make a passage between the Mediterranean and the Germane Ocean; having been at the mouth of the Mosella by Coblentz, and passed from Chaalon upon the soft and noble River Araxis or Soane unto Lion, I cannot but think these very goodly Streams, and fit for such a purpose. The present King of France hath a design to unite the River Aude with the Garonne, and so to have a passage by Boat from the Mediterranean Sea by Tholouse and Bourdeaux, into the Ocean. When I traveled in those parts, viewing the Country well, I thought it would be a difficult work, and so it proveth: but the King hath proceeded already very far therein.  
About four Leagues from Nurnberg lieth Altdorff, belonging unto it, made an University in the year 1623. containing, when I was there, about 150 Scholars. The Physic Garden is handsome, and well stocked with Plants, to the number of two thousand. Dr. Hoffman the Botanic and Anatomic Professor, showed me many of the most rare of them; and presented me with divers. The Anatomy School is not large; yet the only one in those parts of Germany: And they have divers Curiosities preserved in it, as the Skeleton of a Hart, of a Horse, of a Man, of a Bear bigger than a Horse: And some Pictures, as one of a Ninivite, and another of Moses, which they take to be Ancient. Dr. Wagenseyl, Professor of Law and History, brother to Captain Wagenseyl, who traveled with me from Heidelberg, invited us to lodge at his House, and showed me his Library, and all his Rarities and Coins, whereof he hath a good Collection, having lived in most places of Europe, and speaks many Languages well; he gave me a piece of the first money that was coined in Germany. In the University Library I saw a fair Hortus Eystetensis, and Youngerman's Collection of Plants by his own hand.  
At Nurnberg I met with the Son and the Secretary to the Holland Ambassador in Turkey, who had traveled hither over-land from Constantinople, in their return into the Low-Countries, travelling in Greek Habits.  
From hence I went to Newmarkt, a good Town in the upper Palatinate belonging to the Duke of Bavaria, and the next day through Heinmaw, subject to the Duke of Newburg, to Regensburg.  
Ratisbona, Regensburg, Augusta Tiberii, Colonia Quartanorum, the chief place of the Roman Forces in this limit of the Empire, where the fourth Italic Legion had a constant station; was made a Colony by Tiberius in the year, as some conceive, of the Passion of our Saviour. It was much augmented and adorned by the Emperor Arnulphus, who had a great affection for this place, so pleasantly seated, and in a good Country. Here the River Regen runs into the Danube; from whence it was called Regensburg. There are two Bridges, one of wood below the Town, and another Bridge of stone of about fifteen Arches; which is the fairest stone Bridge over the Danube. It is an Imperial City, but not without some acknowledgement to the Duke of Bavaria: And although it be strongly fortified, yet it was taken by the Swedes in the Germane wars. There are many fair buildings in it, both private and public; and though I am not able to confirm what some report, that there as many Churches and Chapels in this City, as there are days in the year; yet are there many fair Churches and Convents: As the Cathedral of St. Peter, in the Southside of which is the Picture of St. Peter in a ship; and on the North aother of the Apostles first Mission. In the Piazza stands a neat little Church, the Convent of St. Paul, founded by St. Wolfgangus Bishop of this place, the Convent of St. Emerammus Bishop of Ratisbone, a Saint of great Veneration here, though but of little mention or name in other parts. The name of Albertus Magnus, Bishop of this place, hath also added unto the Fame of Regensburg.  
But that which chief promoteth its lustre, is the General Diet or Parliament, which is often held in this City, and is not to be called in any part out of Germany; and the place is not unfit for the accommodation of such a noble Convention, as are the Estates of Germany. The Vice-Marshal taketh care to provide Lodgings respectively to their persons, and seethe that all things be brought hither, and at a just price; that the Hall or Place of Assembly be furnished and adorned suitably to the dignity of the Persons convened, and hath an especial eye and regard towards the Public safety. By this Convention the great Concerns of Germany are much secured, and their peace and quiet Established. Wherein Germany seems to have a better advantage than Italy; For Italy being likewise divided into many Dominions and Principalities, hath no Common Diet or Great Council, whereby to proceed for their Public safety: Which makes them often so divided in their common Concerns in times of Danger, and when they most need a joint Combination.  
I entered the notable River Danubius at this place, which hath already run a good course, and passed by many fair Towns or Cities; as the large City of Ulme in Swabenland, where it beginneth to be Navigable; as also Donawert, Neuburg, and Ingolstadt, and hath already received the considerable River of Licus or Leck, whereby the Commodities of that great Trading City of Augsburg are brought into it. When I first embarked at Regensburg, I thought I might have taken leave of the Danube not far below Vienna, but an opportunity made me see this great Stream beyond Belgrade, as I have declared in another Account of my Travels.  
The first day we passed by Thonawsteyn, where there is a Castle seated upon a high Rock, and came to Pfeter or Vetera Castra of old, now but an ordinary place. The Boats upon the Danube are generally painted black and white, are flat bottomed, and broad at the Head and Stern; there is a Chamber built in the middle; and the Rudder is very large, to be able to command the Boat where the River is rapid, and of a swift Course.  
The next day we came to Straubing, a handsome walled Town, belonging to the Duke of Bavaria; the Streets are straight; and there is a Tower in the Marketplace, painted all over with green and gold-colour: There is also a Bridge of wood over the Danube. We passed by Swartz in the Afternoon, where the Church is seated upon a Hill, and is frequented by Pilgrims, and lodged at Deckendorff, where there is another Bridge. Near this Town comes into the Danube that considerable River Iser, or Isara, having passed by divers considerable Towns; as Landshut, Frising, and München, the Seat of Ferdinandus Maria, Elector of Bavaria, Great Steward of the Empire, and at present the first of the Secular Electors, and he is to take place immediately after the King of Bohemia, it being so concluded on at the Treaty of Munster, where Maximilian Duke of Bavaria was allowed to hold the Electorship, which was confirmed upon him by the Emperor Ferdinand the Second, when he excluded Frederick the Fifth, Count Palatine, and in lieu hereof there was an eighth Electorship erected for the Palatinate Family, who also, if the Bavarian branch doth fail, are to re-enter into their ancient Electorship, and the other newly erected is to be abolished.  
Thursday, November the fifteenth, we came by Wilshoven to Passaw, Patavia, or Boiodurum, a long and noble City in the lower Bavaria, or Bayern, made up of three Towns, Iltstadt, Passaw, and Innstadt, at the concurrence of the River Inn, the Danube, and the Iltz. As Towns are commonly of great Antiquity which are built at the Confluence of great Rivers, for the Strength of the Situation and convenience of Commerce; so is this accounted ancient, as being a Roman Colony, and the place of the Castra Batava in old times.  
The Church of St. Stephen is stately, besides other fair Churches. The Bishop, who is Lord of the City, hath a strong Palace upon a Hill; his Revenues are large, and besides what he possesseth hereabouts, he hath the tenth part of the notable great Lead-Mine at Bleyberg in Carinthia. This place had lately suffered much by fire; but a good part was rebuilt, and very fairly after the Italian manner: So that this may well be reckoned as one of the ten considerable Cities, which are upon the Danube, accounting from Ulme unto Belgrade, as Ulme, Ingolstadt, Ratisbone, Passaw, Lintz, Vienna, Presburg, Strigonium, Buda, Belgrade; all which from Ratisbone I had the opportunity to see before the end of my Journey. Near to a Wall over against the great Church at Passaw, which was then repairing, I saw a vast Head cut in stone, the Mouth whereof was two spans wide, and the rest proportionable. The River Iltz, which runneth in here from the North, is considerable for the Pearls which are found in it; and the noble River Inn or Oenus, from the South, is the greatest River which hath yet entered the Danube; having passed by Insbrug, and taken in the River Saltz, upon which stands Saltzburg; and arising in the Alps in such a high Country as Tirolis, it runneth in here with a great force, and addeth much unto the swiftness of the Danube.  
Upon the Sixteenth we came to Lintz, the chief City in the higher Austria, not very great, but as neat and handsome a City as most in Germany. There is in it a very great Marketplace, with never a bad House in it, the whole Town built of a very white Freestone; and the Castle upon the Hill is of Modern Building, and very large. There is also a Bridge over the Danube. The Imperial Forces rendezvoused here when Solyman came to Vienna. This was also besieged by the Peasants of Austria in the time of Ferdinand the Second; they having got a Body together of Forty thousand men, and many pieces of Ordnance, but were stoutly repulsed after many Assaults, and at last overcome by Papenheim. Not far below Lintz the River Draun enters the Danube; this cometh from the Gemundner Sea, or Lacus Felicis, passing by Lampack, Weltz, and other Towns, and hath a noted Cataract or Fall of Waters.   depiction of two flat boats or barges near a whirlpool in a river; on the left bank is a castle ruin; on the right bank is a church; in the background is a cross on top of a mountain 
The Whirlpool in the Danube.  I. Olivor Fe  

THE DESCRIPTION OF VIENNA.  
VIENNA, or Wien, which the Turks call Berch, is the chief City of Austria, in the Latitude of forty eight Degrees, twenty Minutes, not much differing from the Latitude of Paris. The old Seat of the Dukes of Austria, and for a long time of the Emperors of Germany. According to ancient account it standeth in Pannonia superior, the Bounds of Pannonia extending unto Kalemburg, or Mons Cetius, five or six miles Westward of Vienna; beyond which still Westward all that lieth between that Hill and the great River Oenus, or Inn, which runneth into the Danube at Passaw, or Castra Batava, was anciently called Noricum.  
It was an ancient place of Habitation in the time of the Romans, and called Vindobona, as the Learned Petrus Lambecius hath at large declared, where the Classis Istrica sometimes lay, and the tenth German Legion had its station; all this shore or side of the Danube being famous for the actions of Roman Emperors against the Marcomanni and Quadi, who possessed the Country on the other side of the River, and especially for the wars of Marcus Aurelius Antoninus Philosophus, who notably defeated those Nations, and who, as Aurelius Victor (who was Governor of Sirmium in Pannonia inferior, in the time of Constantius) affirmeth, fell sick at Carnuntum, now Petronel, and died at Vindobona, now Vienna. And to confirm the Antiquity hereof, besides what Wolfgangus Lazius hath delivered, not many years since some Antiquities were found. For in the year 1662. when a wall was digged up near the old Palace, the workmen digging still on below the Foundation, found a Stone Trough or Coffin, containing hard Earth and Bones, with a small Gold Coin, a Glass Urn enclosed in a Brass one, an Iron Knife like a Sicespita, or Knife used about Sacrifices, a little Roll or Scroll of pure Gold, shut up with a Golden cover at both ends, wherein was an Inscription in strange Characters: Not far from the Sepulchral Monument were found a Head in Brass, a Brazen Patera, Lamps, Lachrymatories, and other Vessels, and a Copper Coin of Antoninus Caracalla. The writing in the Golden Scroll, which no man could read, was conceived by the Learned Lambecius to be the old Pannonian Character, and that this might be the Monument of some Pannonian Priest in the days of Caracalla, who, as good Authors deliver, spent some time about these parts.  
It is seated on the Southside of the Danube, on the ripa Romana, that side nearest to Rome, and many Roman Colonies, according to the usual position of Roman Stations, both upon this River and the Rhine, as may be exemplified in Colen, Bonna, Andarnach, Coblentz, Ments, Worms, Spier, and Strasburg. And in like manner in the old Roman Stations, on the South or Roman side of the Danube, which were in no small number in or near the Austrian shore, as Carnuntum, or Petronel, Vischmund, or Aquinoctium, Ebersdorff, or Ala Nova, Melck, or Nomale, Arlape, or Pechlarne, Lentia, or Lintz; for hereby they better secured their Conquests, and hindered the incursions of the Barbarians before them.  
It is not seated upon the main stream of the Danube, but by a branch thereof; for the River running through a low Country; it is divided into several Streams, and maketh many Islands. A small River named Wien, runneth by the East part of this City, and entereth the Danube below it, which upon floods doth often much hurt, yet sometimes low and very shallow, so as I have stepped over it; some will have it to give the Name unto this City: it divideth part of the Suburbs from it, and hath divers Bridges over it. For that we may have a distinct apprehension of Vienna, we must consider the City and Suburbs thereof; the Suburbs are very great, and not without fair Houses, Gardens, Walks, and all Accommodations at large.  
The City itself is that walled and fortified part, designed not only for convenience of Habitation, but also to sustain a Siege, or any Attack from the Turk, and is now separated from the Suburbs by a fair Esplanade, or open Ground, above a Musket shot over. The Houses near the wall were pulled down since the last Fortification in the Turkish war, when they were in some fear that the Turkish Forces about Gran and Newheusel, would move towards them. It is fortified a la moderna, with ten Bastions towards the Land, and a very deep Ditch, into which they can let the Danube: and with two other Bastions towards the water, on that part of the River which lieth on the North-side of the Town. The Bastions are large; upon one of them I saw Count Souches muster a good part of the Militia of the City. The Ditch is large and very deep, into which although they can let in the River, yet it is commonly kept dry, lest they might incommode their deep Cellars. There are two walls, the one old and inward, little considerable at present, built at first with the ransom of our King Richard the First, who in his return from the Holy War, was detained Prisoner by the Duke of Austria upon the 20th of December, 1192. The Austrians pretending they had received some affront from the King at Joppa, and that he had taken down the Ensign and Banner of Duke Leopold in a contemptuous way. The other outward of a great breadth, made of Earth, and faced with Brick, edged with Freestone, so well built, as to render this City one of the most considerable fortified places in Europe. The Esplanade gently descendeth from the Town for three hundred Paces; there are very few Outworks.  
It is very uncertain who was the first Builder of Vienna, and after it had been long built, it ran to decay again for Four hundred years together, till Henry the First, Duke of Austria, in the year 1158. did much repair it; and the ransom afterwards of King Richard beautified it.  
The whole compass, taking in the Suburbs, makes a very large Circuit, but the City itself, which is walled in, may be about three miles in Circumference, and is exceeding populous, as full of People, for the bigness of the place, as most of the great Cities. And I could not but take delight to behold so many Nations in it, as Turks, Tartars, Grecians, Transylvanians, Sclavonians, Hungarians, Croatians, Spaniards, Italians, French, Germans, Polanders, etc. all in their proper Habits.  
The chief Gates are six: 1. Stubnthor, or the Stuben Gate towards the East. 2. Karnterthor, or the Gate of Carinthia towards the South. 3. Burgthor, the Town Gate, or Castle Gate. 4. Schottenthor, or the Scotch Gate. 5. Newthor, or the Newgate; these two last towards the West: And 6. the Gate of the red Tower towards the North, which leadeth unto the Bridge over the Danube: and towards the water side, there is also a Port by the Emperor's palace, and a Cloister or Nunnery in the Town hath the Name of a Port called Himmel port, or the Gate of Heaven. The five first of these Gates are vaulted and arched with long passages through the Town-wall, and have good Bridges of Wood, with Draw-bridges to pass over the Town ditch: The sixth is under a Tower, and leads to the Bridges of the Danube: For that River running here in a flat low Country, divideth its streams, so that to pass it quite over, there are at present seven long Bridges made up of many thousand Tree laid one by another, after their way of making Bridges. There is also a Bridge within the City of Vienna, called the Hochbrug, or High-bridge, which is made by the crossing of two Streets at equal Angles; the ground of one street being as high as the tops of the Houses of the other, so that to continue it, they were forced to build a Bridge or Arch in the Lower-street, to let the upper pass over it.  
The City is fairly built of stone, and well paved; many Houses are of six stories high; they are somewhat flat roofed after the Italian way; the Streets are not narrow, but the compass of ground will not admit them to be very broad; and their Buildings are remarkable both above and below ground; their Cellars are very deep. To satisfy my curiosity, I went into some of them, and found four Cellars one under another; they were arched, and had two pair of Stairs to descend into them. Some have an open space in the middle of each roof, to let the Air out of one Cellar into another, and from the lowest an adit or tube unto the top, to let the Air in and out from the street, somewhat after the manner of the Mines.  
Aenaeas Silvius, about two hundred years since, commending the City of Nurnburg, among other expressions let's fall this: Cuperent Scotorum Reges tam egregiè quam mediocres Cives Norinbergenses habitare. The Kings of Scots would be content to dwell so well as the middle sort of Citizens of Nurnburg. I must confess, when I first entered Nurnburg, I was much surprised to see such a noble, large, spruce, rich, and well built City: But Vienna doth also deserve the commendation which he affordeth it: Ubi Palatia digna Regibus & Templa quae mirari Italia possit. Where there are Palaces fit for Kings and Churches, which Italy may admire. And this being spoken so long ago, is now better verified of it.   depiction of the Mariensäule or Column of Our Lady in Am Hof, Vienna, featuring Mary and four angels 
A noble copper Column Standing before the jesuites College in Vienna  john Oliver Fecit 
There are also many fair Churches, rich Convents, and Conventual Churches; as that of the Carmelites, of the Franciscans, of the Benedictines, of St. Nicholas; In this Church I could not but take notice of the late Sepulchral Monuments of Count Strozzi and Cardinal Harach. The Dominican Convent is very fair. The Augustine's have a large Church, in the middle whereof they have built a Chapel after the manner of the Holy House at Loretto; upon the top of which hang the Colours taken from the Turks and Tartars, many of which Ensigns are not square like ours, but made Escucheon-wise, some filled with Circles, wherein are expressed half Moons. The Jesuits Colleges are large, who seldom fail of noble Convents, especially in places where they have so good footing as in this. The Front of one of their Colleges openeth into a fair Piazza, in the middle whereof stands a large and high composite Column of Copper upon a Pedestal of white stone, with four Angels with Escutcheons, and on the top the blessed Virgin; Inscriptions also, in which the Emperor dedicates Austria unto her Patronage and Tuition. In another Marketplace, where the Townhouse is, there is a handsome Statue of Justice in Copper.  
I could not but observe the Scotch Church and Cloister, which gave also the name unto the Scotch Gate of the City, because I somewhat wondered how the Scots in old time should be so considerable in this place, but I found by Information, and the Account of Lazius and Matthaeus Merian in High-dutch, that this Convent was in former times a great Receptacle for the Scots in their long Pilgrimage unto Jerusalem, founded and endowed by Duke Henry the First, in memory of St. Gregory: and it may seem less strange that the Scots should have a Convent here, and be numerous in these parts in former Ages, if we consider that St. Colman, one of the Saints of the greatest Veneration in this Country was a Scotchman, and said to be of the Royal Blood of Scotland, who, in his passage to Jerusalem was murdered by the Baurs or Country people at Stockerau, four Germane miles from Vienna, and hanged on a Tree, where, as the Story goes, his Body remained uncorrupted for a year and a half, and divers Miracles being affirmed of it, it was taken down, and honourably interred near Stockerau; but by Meginhard Bishop of Aichstadt it was translated unto Melk, and afterwards sent into Hungary, and his Head kept a long time at Stullweissenburg, or Alba Regalis, according to the Account which is here given of this Saint.  
The Church of St. Peter is also considerable, not for its Splendour but Antiquity, as being accounted the oldest in the City, standing in a place where in old time there stood an Altar in honour of Domitian, called Ara Flaviana. In this Church lieth the Body of that famous and learned Person Wolfgangus Lazius, with this Epitaph or Inscription:  
Magnifico Nobili Clarissimo atque summâ eruditione ornatissimo viro Domino Wolfgango Latzio Vien. Philosophiae atque Medicinae Doctori & Professori Primario, Celeberrimi Archigymnasii Viennensis Rectori & Superintendenti Caesareo, & ejusdem Sacrae Caesareae Majest. Ferdinandi Sanctissimae memoriae Consiliario & Historico Peritissimo, defuncto Anno Domini MDLXXXVI.  
In the Church of the Capucines Convent, are interred the Emperor Mathias and his Empress, and the Empress Maria, wife to Ferdinand the Third, who out of their Devotion and Humility, chose to be buried in a Church of this poor Order. And the Capucines not admitting of Magnificent Monuments in their Churches, as in the Churches of other Orders, no Tombs are erected worthy so great an Emperor, and such Empresses.  
But the Cathedral Church of St. Stephen, containeth divers Monuments of many Princes and Great Persons, and is a large stately Building, but somewhat dark by reason of the thick painted Glass: not covered with Lead, but with Tiles of wood, which is the only blemish thereof, yet makes a good show. The Steeple and Spire are very remarkable, as being high, large, strong, and handsome. On the top or Weathercock-place of the Spire stands a Cross under a Star and half Moon, according to the Figure I have elsewhere set down, which the People think to be of Gold, or at least very well gilded: and in the time of Thunder and Lightning it looked pale and whitish.  
They have this Account how these came first to be set up in this place: That when Solyman the Magnificent besieged Vienna, perceiving the Forces in the City to be obstinate, he had an intent to batter down the Steeple about their ears: But some of the Bassa's and great Commanders, advertising him how unprofitable a business it would prove, and withal when he took the City, what an honour it would be unto him to have such a Noble Pyramid in his Dominions: He sent word into the Town, That he was willing to spare the Steeple, upon condition that they would set up the half Moon and Star (the Turkish Arms) upon the top thereof. They returned Answer that they would, if he would send the same unto them, which he did, and they placed it where it standeth.  
This Spire hath the largest Crockets I have observed in any, they being above a yard long, and adorned with foliage work. The Spire of Landshute in Bavaria, is accounted the highest in Germany; that of Strasburg the neatest and fairest; and this of Vienna the largest and strongest. And therefore it is no wonder that when the Ambassadors of Bosna formerly came unto Vienna, they so often viewed and admired this Fabric, and plainly said that all the money in their Country was not sufficient to have built it.  
This Steeple is accounted about four hundred sixty and five foot high, being about half way up three hundred and thirty eight steps. Besides other Hills, I could see Haimburger Hill within two miles of Presburg, and a great part of Austria, which the long Course of the Danube rendered very pleasant and delightful unto the eye. In the Chamber or Room from whence I had this prospect, there is a Clock, whose Case being of wood, was in part burnt down by Lightning, and therefore there is water always kept in this place to extinguish the fire, and a man continually watcheth in the place where the Bells hand. There is also an Instrument of wood, or wooden Bells or Hammers, which they make use of from Good-friday till Easter-sunday, all the time that our Saviour was in the Grave, during which time they permit no Bells to ring.   depiction of St Stephen's Cathedral, Vienna 
The Cathedral Church of St. Stephen in Vienna  
In this Church of St. Stephen, besides many Monuments of great Princes and famous Persons, divers learned men have Sepulchral Inscriptions; as Johannes Faber Bishop of Vienna; Johannes Cuspinianus, and Sebastianus Tengnagelius, formerly Library-keeper, Historiographer, and Counsellor to the Emperor, an extraordinary learned man, and skilful in fifteen Languages, as the Inscription delivers; as Hebrew, Syriack, Chaldee, Persian, Arabic, Turkish, Aethiopick, Greek, Latin, Italian, French, Spanish, Germane, Belgic, and English.  
The University of Vienna is also remarkable, if we conssider the Antiquity thereof, the number of Scholars, their course of Studies, their accommodations, privileges and advancements. This is said to have been begun by Albertus the Third, above three hundred years past; and their Rules, Orders, and Statutes to have been borrowed from the University of Paris, and the Students were distinguished into four Divisions or Nations; who, besides the General, have their particular Rules and Officers, and were comprehended under the Classis of Austrians, Nations of the Rhine, Hungarians, and Saxons.  
In the Austrian Division were contained the Friulians, all of the Diocese of Trent, all Italy, with the other Provinces beyond the Mountains. 〈…〉 vian the Classis of the Rhine were comprehended Sue●●●●●, Alsatians, Franconians, Hassians, d all the Provinces to the South-west, as France, Spain, Navarre, Holland, Brabant.  
In the third Classis, or Natio Hungariae, were contained Hungarians, Bohemians, Polonians, Moravians, Sclavonians, all that speak the Sclavonian Tongue, and also Germane.  
To the Classis, or Natio Saxonum, were reduced Saxons, Westphalians, Frislanders, Turingians, Misnians, Brandenburgers, Prussians. Livonians, Lusatians, Pomeranians, with the Ultramarine Kingdoms of England, Scotland, Ireland, Sweden, Norway, and Denmark.  
These Divisions take up all the Nations of Europe; and indeed there are Students here of many Nations: and upon Contentions and Differences the several Classes will hold unto their own, and take parts, and bandy against each other, but will all unite and hold together in differences with Townsmen or Jews, which happen sometimes unto an high degree.  
They follow here the old beaten way of Knowledge: and I met with few who had any good insight in new Philosophy; but there are many good Philologers, and are well versed in Languages, History and Antiquity: and there are many Learned Men either educated here, or come from other parts. Some who had taken notice of the Royal Society in London, were very inquisitive after it; and when I had satisfied them in all particulars, were very much pleased therewith. If they should fall into the way of Experimental Philosophy, being very industrious, 'tis very probable they may do much therein, and they were sure to have the countenance of the Emperor. I found them also much affected with the English Society in other parts of Germany. At the University of Altorff I was much enquired of concerning it: and a Magistrate of Nurnburg, who had got a Telescope from London, invited me to his House, to practise the way of using it. Der Herr von Adlershelme of Leipsick, a Person of great Curiosity, was very inquisitive after the same Society. And of late years the Curiosi of Germany have held Learned Conventions and Correspondence, and printed their Observations at Leipsick. And since my Return into England, I have been solicited from Cassovia in Upper Hungary, to send the Transactions into those Parts.  
During my stay at Vienna, I went unto a public Anato my of a Woman that was beheaded: the Lecture lasted so long, that the Body was Nineteen days unburied. It was performed by a Learned Physician, Dr. Wolfstregel, who read in Latin to the satisfaction of all persons. What I most particularly observed therein was this, The Pyramidal Muscles very plain and large; the Uterus larger than is usually observed; the Cartilago Ensiformis double; the Lungs very black; the Eye was very well shown; he produced an artificial Eye of Ivory, and another large one of Pasteboard and Paper, contrived and made by himself; the Muscles of the Pharynx, Larynx, Os Hyoides, and the Tongue, after their dissection, he reduced very handsomely into their proper places again, to show their natural situation and position. The Anatomy-Theatre was of capacity to receive above an hundred persons; and according to the custom of other places, to avoid impertinent Spectators, a piece of Money was given for admission. Of Anatomy-Theatres, until of late, there have been few in Germany, or none. And when I was in the Anatomy-School at Altorff, near Nurenburg, that learned and civil Professor, Dr. Mauritius Hoffmannus, told me that the same was the First in Germany.  
Paulus de Sorbait, Prime Professor, Physician unto Eleonora the Empress' Dowager, and Knight of Hungary, was the Rector Magnificus. Zwelfer, who writ Animadversions upon the Dispensatory of Ausburg, was in great repute in Vienna, and had built for himself a noble House in the City, but he died some time before my coming thither.  
In fine, the University is noble, their Advancements considerable, their Privileges great, and they have the power of life and death, from ancient and latter Concessions of their Dukes and Emperors.  
But the greatest lustre unto Vienna is the Residence of the present Emperor Leopoldus; he was born in the year 1638. he was Son unto the Emperor Ferdinand the Third; he was baptised by the Names of Leopoldus, Ignatius, Franciscus, Balthasar, Josephus, Felicianus. His eldest Brother Ferdinand, King of the Romans, died of the Small Pox in his Father's time. His Brother Carolus Josephus, Master of the Teutonick Order, died 1662. He married Margareta Infanta of Spain, daughter unto King Philip the Fourth, whose Children died Infants; a virtuous, affable, grave, and worthy Prince, and seemed to me to live very happily here, in the love and honour of his People, Soldiers, and Clergy.  
His Person is grave and graceful; he hath the Austrian Lip remarkably, his Chin long, which is taken for a good Physiognomical mark, and a sign of a constant, placid, and little troubled mind. He is conceived to carry in his Face the lineaments of four of his Predecessors, that is, of Rudolphus the First, of Maximilian the First, of Charles the Fifth, and Ferdinand the First. He was very affectionate unto his Empress, who, though but young, was a modest, grave Princess, had a good aspect, was zealous in her Religion, and an Enemy unto the Jews. He shown also great respect and observance unto the Empress' Dowager Eleonora, who was a sober and prudent Princess, well skilled in all kind of curious Works, and delighted sometimes to shoot at Deer from a Stand, or at other Game, out of her Coach. He was also very loving unto his Sisters, beautiful and good Ladies; whereof one, the eldest, was since married unto that Noble Prince Michael Wisnowitzski, King of Poland.  
He speaks four Languages, Germane, Italian, Spanish, and Latin. He is a great countenancer of Learned Men, and delighteth to read, and when occasion permitteth, will pass some hours at it. The worthy Petrus Lambecius his Library Keeper, and who is in great esteem with him, will usually find out some Books for him which he conceiveth may be acceptable. While I was there he recommended a Translation of Religio Medici unto him, wherewith the Emperor was exceedingly pleased, and spoke very much of it unto Lambecius, insomuch that Lambecius asked me whether I knew the Author, he being of my own name, and whether he were living: And when he understood my near Relation to him, he became more kind and courteous than ever, and desired me to send him that Book in the Original English, which he would put into the Emperor's Library: and presented me with a neat little Latin Book, called Princeps in Compendio, written by the Emperor's Father, Ferdinandus the Third.  
He is also skilful in Music, composeth well, and delighted much in it, both at his Palace and the Church, which makes so many Musicians in Vienna; for no place abounds more with them; and in the Evening we seldom failed of Music in the Streets, and at our Windows: And the Emperor's delight herein makes the Churchmen take the greater care to set off their Church-music, for he goeth often to Church, and not to one, but divers, especially the best Conventual Churches: and in his own Chapel some of his own Compositions are often played. He hath also excellent Music in his Palace, both Vocal and Instrumental; and his private Chapel is well served, where besides the excellent Music, there are always eight or ten Counts, Pages to the Emperor, who serve at the Altar with white wax Torches in their hands; and after the manner of the Italian Princes, divers Eunuches to sing.  
For his Recreations abroad, he delighteth much in Hunting, especially of the wild Boar in due seasons; I have known him bring home six Boars in a morning. Some stout persons, particularly Count Nicholas Serini, would encounter a wild Boar alone, but at last he unfortunately perished by one, which hath made others more wary since; and therefore when the Boar is at a Bay, the Huntsmen so stand about him, that the Emperor, or other great persons, may more safely make use of their Boar-spears upon him.  
Surely there are great numbers of them about the Country, for they are no unusual or extraordinary Dish in the City, though of a delicious and pleasing taste. They feed upon Acorns, Beech-mast, and Chestnuts, upon the spring or sprout of Broom, Juniper, and Shrubs, and upon the roots of Fern, and will range into Cornfields, and come out of Forests into Vineyards. The Huntsmen are notably versed and skilful in that Game; for though they see it not, they will distinguish a wild from a common Swine, and guess whether that which they hunt be Male or Female, old or young, large or small, fat or lean; and this they chief conjecture from their tread or foot, and the casting their hindfeets out of the tract of their forefeet.  
The Emperor being so good a Huntsman, it is the less wonder that he is esteemed a good Horsman. Certain it is, that he hath a very noble Stable of Horses, procured from all parts, Turkish, Tartarian, Polonian, Transylvanian, Saxon, Bohemian, Hungarian, Naples, etc. and they are well managed; and they ride them to the satisfaction of the Beholders.  
Having seen the Arsenal at Venice, the Stores at Chatham, and the Naval Provisions at Amsterdam, I am not like to admire any other, especially so far from the Sea, and looked for nothing of that nature in this place. Notwithstanding I found an Arsenal, and place for Naval Vessels to be set out upon occasion, and some thereof were employed in the last Turkish war, when they attempted to destroy the Bridge of Boats which the Turks had made over the Danube, a little above Gran and Barehan. They are built somewhat like Galleys, carry great Guns, and a good number of Soldiers, and will make a sight upon the broad deep stream of the Danube, and may be handsomely brought into the Town behind one of the Bastions, when the River is high; and hereof there are some at Rab and Komora, as I have declared elsewhere.  
The Emperor hath many Counsellors, great Soldiers and Courtiers about him; among which these seemed of greatest Note.  
Eusebius Wenceslaus Duke de Sagan, Prince Lobkowitz, Pirme Counsellor, Hoff-meister, of the Order of the Golden Fleece, a person of a grave and sober Aspect, somewhat blunt in conversation, but of a generous temper, and free from all covetousness, who spent his Revenues nobly, and unto his great reputation: He was chief Favourite unto the Emperor; and though some had no great opinion of his Abilities, yet he was the first that discovered the last Hungarian defection and revolt, whereby those Noble Persons, Count Peter Serini and Nadasti (whom I saw at Vienna) were brought unto their ends.  
Henricus Gulielmus, Count of Stahrenberg, Ober-hoff-Mareschal, or Lord Marshal of the Court.  
Johannes Maximilianus, Count of Lamburg, Oberst-Kammer-Herr, or Chief of the Chamber, a Person of great esteem. The Gentlemen of the Bedchamber are numerous, and many are in extraordinary; there may be an hundred of them, all Barons and Counts. Every one of them wears a Golden Key before his Breast: and the Grooms of the Bedchamber wear one of Steel: Two of each attend every Night.  
Gundakerus, Count Dietrichstein, Oberst-Stall-Meister, or Chief Master of the Horse.  
These are the Chief. These following are also considerable.  
Count Sinzendorff, Oberste-Jag-Meister, Grand Veneur, or Hunts-Master, a Person in good favour with the Emperor, who very much delighteth in Hunting, as have most of his Predecessors.  
The Count of Aversberg Oberst Falken-Meister, Chief Falconer, who hath twelve Falconers under him.  
The Count of Paar, Chief Master of the Emperor's Post.  
Leopoldus Wilhelmus, Marquis of Baden, Captain of an hundred Hartshires, who are the Horse-guard, and ride with Pistols and Carabines out of the City; but within Vienna they carry Lances and Javelins with broad points.  
Franciscus Augustinus, Count of Wallensteyn, Captain of an hundred of the Footguard, of a good Personage, and well esteemed of by the Emperor.  
Sixty, or more, Page's, for the number is uncertain, and not limited; most of them Counts and Barons.  
Raymundus, Count de Montecuculi, was his General, Precedent of the Council of War, Governor of Rab and the Confines about it, and of the Order of the Golden Fleece; a tall Person, somewhat lean, but hath a spirit in his look: he is one of the oldest Commanders in Europe, and performed good Service in Poland, Hungary, Germany in many places, and is esteemed a prudent, valiant, and successful Commander.  
The Count de Souches was also a Commander of great Fame, and in high esteem with the Emperor. He was a Native of Rochel: he first served the Swedes in the Germane wars, and was a Colonel, but upon some disgust he forsook the Swedes, and served the Imperialists, and was made Governor of Brin, the second Town in Moravia. After the taking of Crembs in Austria, General Torstenson besieged Brin, and sent word unto the Governor de Souches, That if he refused to deliver up the Town he would give him no quarter. Who answered him, That he would not ask any, and also give none: and defended the place with such resolution, that after many Assaults, Undermine, and Attempts by Granado's, Torstenson was forced to rise, after a Siege of four months, which was so advantageous unto Austria and the Imperial affairs, that the Emperor took especial notice of him, made him a Baron, and of his Privy Council. He commanded also all the Forces in Vienna, and did notable Service in the last Turkish wars. He took the City of Nitra, or Nitria, not far from Strigonium or Gran; and took and slew six thousand Turks which were sent by the Vizier of Buda against him: a worthy Person, and of a good Aspect. Count Souches the younger his Son, an Heroic Commander, is Governor of the strong fortified place Leopoldstadt by Freistadt, a Person of great Civility, unto whom I was much obliged.  
Count Lesly, Nephew unto Count Lesly who was sent Ambassador to Constantinople to the Sultan from the Emperor, is a Commander worthy of that esteem he hath with the Emperor; a Person of great Courage, Civility and Humanity, which I must ever acknowledge.  
The Courts of the Empress, and of the Empress' Dowager, are filled with Persons of Note; and there are a great number of Soldiers in this place of great Fame, as the Marquis Pio, Spork, Copse, and many more. Many of the Clergy and Men of Learning, are in good esteem with the Emperor; but the Jesuits Milner and Boccabella are his near Favourites. Many Strangers, both Soldiers and Scholars, have built their Fortunes here. And surely Strangers of parts and industry, so they be of the Roman Church, are not like to raise their Fortunes any where better than in these parts.  
Though the Emperor goeth not to war in Person, yet hath he been successful in his wars, especially in the last Battle with the Turks at St. Godart, where the business was handsomely and actively managed, to set upon the body of the Turks, which had passed the River Rab, before the whole Forces of the Vizier could come over, to the great slaughter of the Janissaries and Turks, who fought stoutly, and were first put to a Retreat by the French Cavalry. For at first the Turks seemed to prevail, and had slain a great part of two Regiments of the Auxiliaries which came out of Franconia, and after their custom, had cut off their Heads.  
Among the many notable things in Vienna, the Imperial Library is very remarkable. He who hath seen the Bodleian Library at Oxford, and the Vatican at Rome, would be much surprised to find such a notable one here, as may compare with them; especially upon the extreme Borders of the Learned part of Europe.  
The number and nobleness of the Books doth much exceed the receptacle or place which containeth them, as making no fair show at the entrance, and somewhat wanting light. But as for the number and value of the Books, they are of opinion here that it yieldeth unto none, but rather excelleth any other Library in Europe. There was a place designed for the building of a fit receptacle for them; but, I know not how, a Theatre for Comedies is now built in that place.  
It is divided into eight Chambers or Rooms, which are so well filled, that many Books are fain to lie upon the Floor; and the Shelves stand so close, that there is but just room to pass between them. The Manuscripts stand distinct from the printed Books, according to their Languages, being divided into six Classes, Theological, Juridical, Medical, Philosophical, Historical, Philological. There can scarce be a more admirable Collection than the Manuscripts in part of the first Chamber, of Hebrew, Syriack, Arabic, Turkish, Armenian, Aethiopick, and Chinese Books.  
It was begun, at least the Books began to be placed in this receptacle, by Maximilian the First, but hath been much increased by succeeding Emperors, most of them, since Rodolphus the First, being much addicted unto Learning, there having been large accessions from many noble Libraries, and most upon the cost of the Emperors. The choicest Books in the famous Library of Buda, of King Mathias Corvinus, Son unto Huniades, are now in it. The notable Library of Wolfgangus Lazius, who was Library-Keeper, was brought hither, and Three thousand Books of Johannes Sambucus are now in this Repository.  
Augerius Busbequius, sometime Library-Keeper hereof, added much unto it; and in his two Turkish Embassies procured great number of noble Greek Manuscripts at Constantinople, which are inscribed with his own hand, Aug. de Busbeck. emit Constantinopoli. A great many were added from the Library of the Learned Johannes Cuspinianus, Library Keeper, and Counsellor unto the Emperor. The notable Libraries and Mathematical Instruments of Tycho Brahe, Kepler, and Gassendus, were purchased for it. But the largest accession was made by the noble Library of Count Fugger, which consisting of sixteen thousand Volumes, was purchased by Ferdinand the Third. Many were brought, some few years past, from the Ambrasian Library by Inspruck, by the Learned Petrus Lambecius, Library Keeper, Historiographer, and Counsellor unto the present Emperor; who hath also an excellent Library which is like to be added unto the Imperial. He then reckoned the Volumes in this great Library to amount at least to Fourscore thousand; and by this time that number may be increased, for he addeth some yearly. And the number might almost be endless, if they would make use of their privilege, for the Emperor hath a right to have two Books of all that are printed in Germany.  
They have also a great advantage at Vienna, to acquire good Manuscripts from the Turkish Dominions, for the Emperor is obliged to have a Resident with the Grand Signior wheresoever he moveth or ordereth him to be; even at the last sight of St. Godart, the emperor's Resident was in the Turkish Camp. And when I was at Larissa in Thessaly, the Resident Signior di Casa Nova, was inquisitive after Books to be found among the Greeks in Monasteries and other places. And this Emperor, like his Father, will spare no cost toward such Acquiries.  
By the especial favour of my noble Friend Lambecius, I went many times into this Library, and he was so courteous as to let me have what Books I desired unto my private Lodging: He would show me divers Books upon what Subject I required, and offered me a sight of what Books he thought rare and estimable; and amongst others I could not but take notice of these following.  
A Letter of the present Emperor of China, in the Chinese and Tartarian Languages, unto the present Emperor of Germany, weaved in a very fine Roll.  
Another old Roll written in unknown Letters, yet a little resembling the Greek.  
A Book in the Runick Language.  
A very fair Manuscript of Ptolemy, with the Maps drawn in Colours.  
The oldest Manuscript and true Exemplar of Livy, in large Letters, without distinction of Words or Sentences, very uneasy to be read, a thousand years old, and brought, not many years since, from the Library near Inspruck.  
An old fair Greek Manuscript of Dioscorides, written eleven hundred years since, in very large Letters, without distance of Words, or Accents, wherein all the Plants are lively painted; also the Pictures of Dioscorides, Galen, Pamphilus, Cratevas, and other ancient Physicians, bought of a Jew at Constantinople for an hundred Ducats by Busbequius.  
A Book of Geometrical Propositions demonstrated in the China Language.  
Another fair one in the China Tongue with Pictures.  
A noble old Greek Manuscript in great uncial Letters, without stops, points, or distance of words.  
An ancient Greek Manuscript of the Book of Genesis, in large Letters, without distance or accents, thirteen hundred years ago; wherein are Forty eight Pictures or Draughts in Miniature or Water colours, much conducing to the knowledge of ancient Habits, the manner of Feasting, postures at Meals, waiting of Servants and Musical Instruments: Wherein I could not but take notice of the Golden Spot upon joseph's breast; and the manner of the Execution of Pharaoh's Baker, his Head being put through a forked piece of wood, and his Hands tied behind him.  
A fair Book of Albert Durer, wherein are many fine Paintings in Miniature or Limning; as also a Sphere, and within it a Globe carved and painted by him.  
A fair Book of Michael Angelo, wherein, besides many rare things in Architecture, are all the paintings and designs of the Belvedere in little.  
A fair Alcoran in Arabic, interlined with the Turkish to explain it.  
The Bible in the Coptick and Persian Languages.  
Luther's own Bible, marked with his own Hand, and interlined by him with Notes in many places.  
A fair Greek Manuscript of the New Testament, fifteen hundred years ago written in Letters of Gold upon Purple.  
There was also a Magical Glass, obtained by the Emperor Rodolphus, whereby to see Apparitions, and converse with Spirits; which some conceive to be the same, or of the like nature with that used by Kelly.  
Of ancient Greek, Roman, and Gothick Medals and Coins, in Gold, Silver, and Copper, to the number of sixteen thousand. Among the Copper Coins they pretend to have two of the Emperor Marcus Otho.  
I let fall some Drops into this Ocean, adding some Coins, Intaglia's, and Inscriptions not to be found in that large work of Gruterus; which having found in the Emperor's furthest Dominions and Turkish parts, long out of his possession, where there had been no great enquiry after them; were showed unto his Imperial Majesty by Petrus Lambecius, and so well accepted by him, that he said I might have the use of what Books I desired: and at my return into England he gave me a formal Pass in Latin for my safe Travel, and that my Trunks or Goods might not be searched, which takes off a great deal of trouble in passing so many Principalities and free Cities, Commanding all in his own Dominions, and Requesting all Princes in Germany to favour me, and permit me to pass freely without molestation: It was thus Subscribed,  
Leopoldus  
Leopoldus Gulielmus Comes in Kinigseggs.  
Ad mandatum Sacr. Caes. Majestatis proprium Beüer.  
The Rarities of the great Duke of Tuscany, The Treasure of Loretto, St. Mark, St. Denis in France, of the Duke of Saxony at Dresden, and others, were very satisfactory to me. Yet having a fair opportunity, I would not leave Vienna without a sight of the most noble Treasury or Repository of his Imperial Majesty; especially having heard so much thereof, and knowing it to be the Collection of many succeeding Emperors. I therefore took a fit opportunity to remain divers hours in it, and was extremely delighted with the rich and magnificent Curiosities thereof. To set down all I saw, were a work too large for this Volume; and the Catalogue of them, which is kept in this place, taketh up a large Volume in Folio. I shall therefore only mention these following, whereby some conjecture may be made of the rest.  
In the first Cupboard or Case were many noble Vessels, turned and shaped out of Ivory, a Cup turned by the Emperors own Hand; another turned by Ferdinandus the Third. Gallant Cups of Amber; Spoons and Vessels of Mother of Pearl; many noble works in Coral; a fine Galley in Ivory, and Cups made out of Rhinocerot's horn.  
In the second, An Elephant of Ivory with a Castle upon his back, and over the Castle a Ship, with much other fine work in the same piece. Two fair Pillars of Ivory; good Basso Relievo in Ivory; a fair Cranium or Deaths-head, and much other variety of Ivory work. A Picture in Oil of Ganymede, by Corregio.  
In the third, A fine Picture of an old Man's head in Oil by Albert Durer: great Variety of Watches and Clockwork in Silver: a fine Centaur in Silver, which is a curious Watch.  
In the fourth, More Watches and Clockwork; a gallant Ship of Silver, a Triumphal Chariot, a Turk riding and attended, a Globe and a Sphere in Silver, a curious Landscape in Oil by Corregio, a Cupid by the same hand, with a fine Copy of it.  
In the fifth, A curious Filigrane Handkerchief, and two fair Filegrane Plates brought out of Spain by the Empress Margarita; an Indian Basket of an Indian sort of Filegrane mixed with Birds; a Basin of Agate finely wrought with silver Craw-fish in it.  
In the sixth, Is contained a strange Collection of Intaglie and old Roman Stones, admirable for their work and largeness. A large Agate whereon is wrought the History of that Victory which Augustus Caesar obtained over the Dalmatians and Pannonians in the ninth year of our Lord; about five inches long, and four broad, highly valued.  
An Onyx with the Head of Alexander and Olympia.  
A Shell with a Battle carved in it.  
A Chain with the Heads of all the Austrian Family.  
A Dog in a very large Sardonyx.  
In the seventh, A noble Head in Oil by Hans van Ach. The Head of Maximilianus the First in Plaster, with a lock of his own Hair. Mother of Pearl in many shapes. Fine Baskets, and the twelve Caesar's Heads.  
In the eighth, most of Crystal, A noble Vessel about a yard and half high, made out of one piece of Crystal. An Urn. The Head of the Empress. A fair Dragon. The Head of the Queen-Mother of France. A Crystal in which the Picture of our Saviour may be seen thrice one way, and once another way.  
The ninth of Crystal also, A noble Ewer. A fair Vessel of very clear Crystal, lately bought. A large Head. Fair Crosses, and other Varieties.  
The tenth of Gold and precious Stones. Five Crowns. The Imperial Crown; rich in Jewels, and hath a very large blue Saphir on the top. A Model of that Crown with which the Emperor is crowned, much richer than the Original. A Paragon Diamond of seventeen Carats and a half. Very large Rubies. A Sceptre of Unicorns horn, set with rich Stones. A Locket of the greatest Diamonds. A magnificent Sceptre, Globe, Cross, and Crown, which cost seven hundred thousand Crowns. An Opal bigger than my hand, as it was taken out of the Mine; and many other fair Opals. A very large Emerald. A Ship in an Emerald. A fair Ring-Dial.  
The eleventh of Gold. A noble Basin used at the Baptism of the Austrian Family. Sceptres, Scimeters, Knives, and other rich Presents from the Turk. Three rich Dog-Collars, sent with three Dogs out of England, with this Mark on them ↃC ↃC. A large lump of pure Gold, as it was taken out of the Mine, as broad as my hand. A fair piece of Gold Over, wherein the pure Gold shooteth upon a white Stone. Divers great Basins of Gold and Coral.  
In the twelfth. Vessels of Jaspis, Agate, Lapis Lazuli, Oriental Granates. Cups of Onyx, Sardonyx. Large ones of Lapis Nephriticus: and a great one of an Amethyst.  
In the thirteenth. A large high Vessel of Bohemian Topaz. Flowers well made out of precious Stones. A Cup of an Hungarian Diamond. A piece of Ambergris as big as a man's head, sent from the Grand Signior. A noble Jaspis-stone. A large Stone of Agate on the outside, and a bed of large Amethysts naturally in it in the middle, which is an extraordinary and pleasant Rarity.  
In the rest, Noble Chrysolites, Jacynths, Oriental Granates, Berylt or Aquamarines. The notable rich Smaragdus, or Emerald, or a Cup out of that Stone. Three great ones having been already taken out, valued at three hundred thousand Crowns. A Picture in Oil of the little King Uladislaus Lokeli, King of Hungary. Ten rich Turkish Saddles with Furniture for Horses, set with fair Turcois Stones. A great number of Gold Vessels and fine Figures in Coral, Turkish Knives, Gauntlets, and Table men of Gold. Delicate Pictures in Wax. Very large Bezoar-stones, Indian-gold Cards and Counters. A vast Medal of the Emperor's Arms, weighing two thousand two hundred Ducats, or a thousand pounds English. A Cup out of Solomon's Temple. Fair Amber, Rare Inlaying in Wood Bacchus and other statuas out of a very high Rhinocerot's horn. A fine Picture of the Mountain Vesuvius. Jewels with black Feathers given by the Turkish Ambassadors. A notable Picture of a lean Skeleton Priest, who lived so four years. A noble Cabinet-clock with large motions. A fair Basin and Ewer of carved Ivory. King Philip the Second of Spain in Diamond Armour, set in Gold. A neat Picture of an old Man courting a young Woman, with this Motto:  Arctum Annulum nè gestato. 
A Knife swallowed by a Peasant near Prague, which was nine months in his Stomach, and safely cut out 1602. The like happened also to a person in Prussia, of which Daniel Becker hath written a peculiar Tract under this Title, De Cultrivoro Prussiaco. A fair Crucifix of Pearl. Indian Pictures made of Feathers. The King of Sweden, Gustavus Adolphus' Buffcoat in which he was killed at the Battle of Lutzen. Tilly's Sword. An Angel in Ivory with Hair and Clothes of Filegrane of Gold. A neat Crucifix of Wood by Albertus' Durer, Two very large Looking-glasses with the Frames of Silver. All the Gospels written and painted. Many brave statuas and Pictures every where. The Head of Charles the First King of England, in white Marble. A Pedistal of Amber, over which a Cross. The Head of St. Valerius Bishop of Triers. The Picture of St. Katherine of Sienna, drawn by Sigismond King of Poland. A Picture of the Emperor as he giveth Audience, to be looked upon through a little round hole. A neat Table of Inlaid Stone made by the present Empress Dowager Eleonora. A Nail of our Saviour's Cross almost a foot long; our Saviour's Blood; and two Thorns of his Crown, the one whiter than the other. Priest's Garments covered all over with large Pearl. The great and high esteemed Agate Dish, between three and four spans Diameter, with XRISOS naturally in it. Unto which one applied that of St. Luke, Dico vobis quia si hi tacuerint, lapides clamabunt.  
Unto which magnificent Rarities there is one more added, the noble Chain of Pearl of eight yards long, taken from the Graff Tokoly in the late Hungarian war, as I understand since my Return.  
I went unto divers noted Places about Vienna: I walked unto the Hill of Vienna, two English miles distant from the Town, going up all the way by an easy Ascent; from whence I had a prospect of the City, and the Campagnia about it, together with the high Mountains in Steirmark covered with Snow: and in my return saw the Palace of the Empress' Dowager without the Town, called lafoy Favorita, and passed by the Convent of the Paulini.  
About two English miles Eastward from Vienna, there is a very noble Garden-place belonging to the Emperor, built by Rodolphus the Second, which hath been formerly well furnished, and provided with Plants, but now seems to be neglected, and somewhat ruinous. It consisteth of an inward and an outward square Garden: The inward is two hundred ordinary paces square, about the same bigness with the Place Royal at Paris: It hath a Portico or Cloister, supported by Forty Pillars of white Stone on each side, and is covered with Copper; as are also the Pavilions which the common people think to be Gold. Besides this, there is an handsome row of Buildings well seated, called Néw-gabaú, in which at present are many wild Beasts kept. Lions and Tigers breed here, and have young ones. Some say this was the place of Solyman the Magnificents' Tent when he besieged Vienna.  
There is also, about two or three miles from Vienna, a noted place of Devotion, called Arnols, much frequented, especially in Lent, divers carrying Crosses very heavy all the way upon their shoulders. There is here a little House built exactly after that of the Sepulchre at Jerusalem; and also a handsome Copy of the Picture of our Saviour and the Virgin Mary, with their exact heights. That of our Saviour is about two yards high; that of the blessed Virgin three or four singer's breadth lower: These are taken from the Original in St. John de Lateran at Rome. Hither the Empress desired to go one morning from her own Palace on foot, out of Devotion, which she performed, though with a great deal of difficulty, she being not used to walk, and the way was dusty. The Emperor accompanied her, and all the Court followed on foot, which made a handsome show.  
Nearer unto Vienna there is also a remarkable place for Devotion, called Itzing: and in the way from Vienna unto it, the twelve Stations of the Cross are marked out in imitation of what is observed near Jerusalem, in the Via Crucis, or Dolorosa, in our Saviour's proceeding from the City unto Mount Calvary; the Figures thereof are printed, and the several paces between every Station set down. The Emperor hath a handsome Park near Vienna, called the Brater, wherein I beheld the effects of the great Lightning and Thunder which happened three days before, upon many great Trees which were torn, split, or twisted. There is a House of Pleasure in it, where among other things, I could not but take notice of a Musical Instrument which I had not seen before, a Seat or Chest-drum; it hath a Cord like that of a Sea-trumpet, but soundeth like a Kettledrum.  
I went also unto Laxambourg, whither the Emperor often retireth; he hath a House in this place, but it is old, and not large. There is also a House of Pleasure in the Mote, into which there is no other passage but through a high Gorridore. The Castle is commodiously seated for the Emperor's recreation; and there is an eight-square House in the Marsh, from which the Nobility and the Empress' Dowager sometimes used to shoot, she being very expert therein. Over the Gate of the Emperor's House hangs a great Rib and Jawbone, whereof I could get no better account, than they were the Rib and Jawbone of a heathen-maid. They seemed to me to be Bones of an Elephant But many things that are old or obscure, they call, in this Country, Heathen: as Roman Coins, they call Heathen money. And the Peasants brought me, in a place which had been formerly an old Roman Station, part of the bit of a Bridle digged up, which they concluded to be a Heathen Key.  
From hence I went unto Mannersdorff, seated not far from the River Leyta, where there is a natural hot Bath, called the Wildebath; it ariseth under a Church, the Church being built over the Springhead. The water of it is but Lukewarm, and therefore when they desire it hotter, they boil it, and so bathe in Tubs in a large room. From that Substance which sticketh to the sides of the Coppers in the boiling of it, they judge it to be impregnated with Sulphur, Salt-peter, and Chalk. The water colours the stones, and makes them look, when wet, like fine Turquoises. And the vapour of the Bath hanging upon the Moss on the sides, gives it an Amber or Gold colour. The Physicians of Vienna have given a good account concerning the use of these Baths in High-dutch. Not far from hence is a noted Quarry of Stone, out of which a great part of Vienna is built. The Stones being large they cut and square them at the Quarry.  
From hence I proceeded to the Newsidler-sea or Lake, so called from Newsidle, which is a Town seated upon the Northern part of it, consisting of one street and some back-houses, and a small, square, old Castle upon a Hill, from whence I had a good prospect over the Lake. It is about three Germane miles broad, and seven miles long. The fairest Lake in these parts, affording plenty of Fish; encompassed and thickly set about with small Towns and Villages; and hath no River, at least not considerable, running into or out of it. A little way from the Gate of Newsidle they dig out a black earth, out of which they make Salt peter. In this Journey, not far from Himburg, we passed by a place called Rauckward, which, though it seems not high, looks over a great part of Austria, and as far as Brin, the second City of Moravia, a part also of the Kingdom of Bohemia, and a part of the Kingdom of Hungaria. I went afterwards four English miles up the Stream of the Danube, to see a noted Quarry of Stone in a Hill called Altenburg. The beds, rows, or cases of the Stones lie not horizontally, but rather elevated Northward, about the height of the Angle forty, yet are not always so regularly placed, but rather follow the shape of the Hill, and according to that are differently situated. Here I also observed a Substance between a Clay and a Stone called Leberstein, or Liverstone; and upon many of these Stones I found the figures of Trees and Leaves, though not so deep or neat as upon the Stones by Florence; yet very prettily marked, and often with broader Leaves than I had elsewhere observed. I passed forward to Closter-Neuburg, a Town most of it belonging to that notable rich Monastery seated here, founded by St. Leopoldus' Marquis of Austria, and since much enriched by succeeding Donations.  
Matthaeus Merian hath a goodcut of the Prospect of the Danube here abouts, and in what manner it passeth downwards between the two great Hills of Kalenburg and Bisnburg. Upon one Peak of Kalenburg live divers Camaldulenses, of an Order the most severe of any, living most upon Roots and Herbs, in the manner of Hermit's. Near their Cells they had paved the ground with those Stones I mentioned, which were naturally marked with the shapes of Trees and Plants.  
After an open Autumn there followed a sharp Winter at Vienna, in the months of December and January. The branches of the Danube were soon frozen over. The main Stream, by reason of its swift Current, held out longer, but was afterwards also frozen. Some have thought that this River is more apt to freeze than others. And we read of Battles which have been fought upon this River frozen; but I could not make any regular Observation thereof. This hard weather the ground being covered with Snow, afforded handsome Recreations unto men, and some unto the Ladies, in running Courses in handsome Sleds and Devices upon the Snow. Their Sleds were well contrived in the shape of Gryphins, Tigers, Swans, Scallop Shells, Dolphins, Peacocks, and the like Curiosities, carved, painted, and gilded. The Lady sits in one of these, richly habited in Velvet, lined with rich Furs, set off with Lace and Jewels, in a Velvet Cap lined with Sables. The Sled is drawn by a Horse, dressed up with Feathers of all colours, and Bells hanging about him, a pair of Stag's horns behind his head, Ribbons and other Ornaments: one or more Pages ride by on Horseback with Torches in their hands. And after this manner they perform their Course upon the frozen Snow about the streets of Vienna in the night, with good speed one after another. A Gentleman sits behind the Lady and guides the Horse. But the Frost breaking up put an end to these Recreations. The Frost began and ended here the same day that it began and ended in England.  
The Festivity of Christmas was observed much after the same Manner, Ceremonies, and Solemnities as in Italy. On Christmas-day the Emperor dined publicly, attended with many Nobles and great Persons, and three remarkable low Dwarves. Upon St. Stephens-day he went to the Cathedral of St. Stephen, and went up to the Altar, kneeled, and kissed the Plate whereon the Hostia had lain. At the Epiphany or Twelfth-tide, the old custom of choosing King and Queen was observed at Court. Count Lesley happened to be King, the Emperor laid the Cloth, and the Empress filled out Wine, together with other old Customs.  
Before Christmas there was extraordinary mirth and jollity at the Court upon occasion of a Marriage: For Count Serau, Governor of Gratz in Styria, married a natural Daughter of Philip the Fourth, King of Spain, which was observed with many noble Solemnities and Bravery. And the Nobility and Ladies were so substantially splendid, that I was much surprised thereat.  
This was followed by a Funeral Solemnity for the Count of Draun, who was Colonel of the Forces in Vienna, and who had one of the noblest Houses in the City; his Corpse was brought out of Italy, and interred in the Dominican Church, where he formerly built a very fair Altar, there was raised for him a Castrum Doloris, handsomely contrived and set round with white Wax Torches and Candles.  
While I was in Vienna, the Empress Margarita was delivered of a Daughter, which was Christened by the Name of Maria, Antonina, Josepha, Benedicta, Rosalia, Petronella, but she lived not many months. When the Empress came abroad, she brought the Child to the Augustine's Church, where Cardinal Carlo Caraffa, the Pope's Nuncio, received it, blessed it, and laid it upon the Altar.  
During my stay here, the Election was in readiness for a King of Poland, after the voluntary resignation of that Crown by King Casimir; and Couriers often passed between that Country and this. There were Competitors the Czar of Muscovy's Son, the Duke of Newburg, and the Prince of Lorraine. The French moved actively for the Duke of Newburg, the Emperor for the Prince of Lorraine, who was then at Vienna, in great favour with the Emperor, who greatly promoted his interest; a Person of great esteem, and who, if General Lubomirski had been living, who was his intimate Friend, in all probability might have obtained the Crown; and thereupon it was conceived that he should have married the Emperor's Sister. But the Poles made choice of one of their own Country, who was no Competitor, Michael Wisnowitski, lately deceased, who also married the Sister of the Emperor.  
When I was here, there were many Ambassadors of Note, Don Balthasar de la Cueva, Marquis of Malagon, and brother to the Viceroy of Naples, was Ambassador for Spain. Cardinal Carlo Caraffa was the Pope's Nuncio. The Venetian Ambassador Extraordinary, solicited for assistance for Candia, and he obtained the Regiment of Porcia under Marquis Pio. Count Souches the younger, who was Governor of Leopoldstadt, and many noble and valiant Soldiers were preparing for that Expedition. The Turks gave assurance of the Grand Signor's intention to maintain the Peace inviolably; and requested the Emperor not to assist the Venetians or Transilvanians, nor to promote, but rather hinder, the Election of the Emperor of Muscovy's Son to the Crown of Poland. The Bishop of Beziers, sent by the King of France to the Election of the King of Poland, came not hither, but passed through Nurenburg, where I lodged at the same Inn: They were generally here against the French Interest, and so were a great part of the Polish Nobility. An Ambassador came also from the Cham of Tartary, to confirm a Peace, and afford mutual Assistance upon occasion. Cha Gagi Aga was the Ambassador, who brought a Present of the best Tartarian Horses, which are of high esteem for swiftness, hardiness, boldness in passing frozen Rivers, and taking and swimming over great Streams. He was dismissed with noble Presents of Plate. The Emperor presented the Cham of Tartary with a fair Silver Bason and Ewer, and a curious Watch; and sent Presents unto the Chammine his Wife,; and also to his Sister and four Brothers. His Followers were stout men, of good stature, course Complexions, wearing long furred Vests and Calpacks, or furred Caps. Some of them had silver Rings with the same Signatures of the Turkish Seals. They took much Tobacco in very long Pipes. Their Tobacco is not in Rolls, but in Leaves, and dry. They went about wand'ring and gazing at most things, as Churches, Houses, Shops: And took much delight to be in the Fair, where they would take much notice of small trifles. Yet these are the men that make such sad Incursions into the Eastern parts of Europe, and carrying away so many thousands, sell them to the Turks, and so repair the defect of People in Turkey. And now after the Consumption of men in Constantinople, and the Country about by the Plague, are like to be active in that Trade, hoping to find better Markets for their Plagiaries and Depredations.  
There are divers Greeks who trade to Vienna, and many live in the Town, among which I met with three considerable persons. One a grave Abbot, who was forced from his Convent by the Turk, upon suspicion that he corresponded with those of Candia. Another who went by the name of Constantinus Catacuzenos, and was of the Blood Royal of the Catacuzeni. The third was Jeremias a Greek Priest, who had traveled through Italy and France into England, and from thence through the Low-Countries and Germany to Vienna, and intended for Constantinople. He came into England to inquire after a young man who was in a Ship which was first taken by an Algerine, and afterwards by an English man of war in the Levant. He was very kindly used in England, and particularly at Cambridge. He did a great deal of honour at Vienna unto the English Nation, declaring that they were the most civil, generous, and learned people he had met with in all his Travels, and that he no where found so many who could speak or understand Greek, or who gave him so good satisfaction in all parts of Knowledge: And as a testimony of his respect and gratitude, requested me to enclose a Greek Letter unto Dr. Pierson, now Lord Bishop of Chester, and Dr. Barrow, now Master of Trinity College in Cambridge.  
Most men live here plentifully, there being abundance of all provision. They have great quantity of Corn, which upon Scarcity, by the help of the Danube, might be brought unto them from remoter parts. The Country affordeth such plenty of wine, that they send a considerable quantity up the River. They have also rich wines out of Hungary and Italy, and such variety, that there are more than thirty several sorts of Wine to be sold in Vienna. They are not also without good Beer. Halstadt in Austria affordeth them Salt, where they make it by letting in water into the hollow parts of a Mountain, where it drinketh in the Salt of the Earth, and is afterwards let out and boiled up. This affordeth great profit to the Emperor, and therefore the Hungarian Salt is not permitted to be brought higher than Presburg. They have also plenty of Sheep and Oxen; but for Oxen at present they are also supplied from Hungary, nor only from the Countries in the Emperor's Dominions, but from the Turkish parts, by permission of the Grand Signior; and they are brought hither by the Eastern Company of Vienna. They eat much wild Boar, whereof the Fat is delicious, like that of Venison with us. They want not Hares, Rabbits, Partridges, Pheasants. A Fowl called Hasenhendal, or Gallina Corylorum, is much esteemed by them, which made me the more wonder to meet with some odd dishes at their Tables; as Guiny-pigs, divers sorts of Snails, and Tortoises.  
The Danube, and many Rivers which run into it, afford them plenty of Fish, extraordinary Carp, Trout, Tenches, Pikes, Eels, several sorts of Lampreys, and many Fishes finely coloured; the white Fish, Crevices very large; the best come out of the River Swechet, not far from Vienna. They have also that substantial large fish, called a Scheiden, or Silurus Gesneri, larger than Pike, Salmon, or any of our River Fishes; but the great Fishes called Hausons', or Husones, in Johnstonus, for largeness exceed all others; some being twenty foot long. Some think this to be the same Fish which Aelian nameth Antacetus, and speaketh largely of the fishing for them in Ister. I was at the fishing places for Hausons' in Schut Island, between Presburg and Komara, for they come not usually higher, especially in shoals; and it is much that they come so high, for they are conceived to come out of the Euxine-sea, and so up the stream. They eat them both fresh and salted; they taste most like Sturgeon. It is a Cartilagineous Fish, consisting of gristles, and they have a hollow nervous chord all down the back, which being dried serveth for a whip. When they fish for them they blow a Horn or Trumpet, and know where they go by the moving of the water. From Venice they are supplied with Oysters, with salt Sturgeon, and sometimes with red Herrings, and great variety of other Fishes pickled up: as also with Oranges, Lemons, and other Fruits. Observing much freedom, music, and jollity in the City. I wondered how they could content themselves without Plays, for there were few while I was there, till the Players came hither out of Saxony, and acted here for a time. The Jesuits would sometimes entertain the Emperor and Empress with a Comedy at their College; and I had once the favour to be at one when they were present.   depictions of four fish 
Rutten out of the Danube  
Koppen  
Grondel  
Biscurn  I. Oliver Fe. 
In Treason and high Crimes they cut off the right Hand of the Malefactor, and his Head immediately after. I saw a Woman beheaded sitting in a Chair, the Executioner striking off her Head with a Fore-blow, she behaved herself well, and was accompanied unto the Market place by the Confraternity of the Dead, who have a charitable care of such Persons, and are not of any Religious Order, but Lay men, among whom also in this place there are many Fraternities and Orders; as of the Holy Virgin, of the Holy Cross and others. Another person also executed after the same manner; as soon as his Head fell to the ground, while the Body was in the Chair, a man ran speedily with a Pot in his hand, and filling it with the Blood yet spouting out of his Neck, he presently drank it off, and ran away; and this he did as a Remedy against the Falling Sickness. I have read of some who have approved the same Medicine; and heard of others who have done the like in Germany. And Gelsus takes notice, that in his time some Epileptical persons did drink the Blood of the Gladiatours. But many Physicians have, in all times, abominated that Medicine. Nor did I stay afterwards so long as to know the effect thereof, as to the intended cure. But most men looked upon it as of great uncertainty: and of all men the Jews, who suffer no Blood to come into their Lips, must most dislike it.  
At Presburg they have a strange way of Execution, still used at Metz, and some other places, by a Maid, or Engine like a Maid finely dressed up with her hands before her. The Malefactor salutes her first, and then retireth. But at his second salute she openeth her hands and cuts his Heart in sunder.  
Though the Winter was sharp, yet the advantage of Stoves, and lying between two Featherbeds, made it tolerable: For they use Stoves here as in other parts of Germany, where they lodge and eat in Stoves; and great Persons have Stoves in the Church, or such as look into the Church. There are Stoves also in the public Schools where Lectures are read. And this way of lying between two Featherbeds, with a neat laced sheet spread over, is more convenient in a cold Country, than most others they make use of. For in the common Inns in Germany they generally sleep upon Straw, and also in Hungary almost every where; and more Easterly upon the ground, spreading a Carpet or Saddle-cloath under them: and more Northerly they content themselves with the Skins of Beasts, Bears, Elks, or the like; upon which they sleep in the night. Those that sleep lowest are coolest in a Stove; those that lie upon Tables, Benches, or higher, are more exposed to the heat. The Citizens of Vienna are well attired, and use Furs very much. The Women wear a high Velvet Bonnet, lined or faced therewith. The Place seemed to be healthful; but they speak much of the Colica Austriaca, as an Endemial and Local Disease, very hardly yielding unto good Medicines. They speak good Germane at the Court and in the City; but the Common and Country people seemed to speak grumblingly, and besides their accent, have divers words different from other parts.  
They have a Custom upon St. Nicholas-day to put some small Gift into the children's shoes; among other things they put in Medals and Dollars made of paper and flower gilded and silvered over, yet scarce worth a penny. They sell Trochies or Tablets in the Markets, made of the pulp of the Fruit of Hip-briar, made sharp with Spirit of Sulphur, very refreshing. Some carry about them a Thunder-stone, as a defence against Thunder: and they rub their children's Gums with a Wolf's tooth instead of Coral.  
When I was at Venice in the time of the Carnival, I observed many Recreations and Shows, as Rope-dancing, flying down the Rope, cutting off Bulls-necks with Swords, and many other. But at Vienna a notable trick which I saw there pleased me much: A man of a middle Stature laid down upon his back, and a heavy Anvil was placed upon his Breast, as much as two men could well lift, than two other men with great Hammers laid on, until they had given almost an hundred blows, and cut in sunder a great Horshoe of iron, about half an inch thick.  
Here is no Christian Religion publicly permitted but the Roman, and therefore those of the Protestant and Reformed Religion are fain to resort unto Presburg, Forty miles off, for which they have some convenience by the Danube, and a Coach which goeth every day. In the time of Maximilian the Second, they were permitted the Exercise of their Religion in the Church of the Holy Cross, in the City of Vienna. But afterwards were prohibited by Rodolphus the Second. The Emperor Mathias gave them permission to meet at Hernals, a little more than an English mile from Vienna; and gave leave to their Ministers to come into the City, and there to christian, marry, baptise, and visit the sick. From which time they increased very much, till Ferdinand the Second, returning from the Battle of Prague, banished their Minister from Vienna and Arnols'; sent the Freyherr Jorger, to whom the Castle of arnold's belonged, Prisoner unto Lintz; and never gave over till he had taken away their Privileges and Freedom of meeting publicly in any part of lower Austria.  
But here are no small number of Jews, who have a distinct Habitation assigned them over the Water. They have also a Street allowed them in the City for the day time, but they must all departed at night beyond the River into the Suburbs.  
They are much distasted by the Citizens and Tradesmen, and the Scholars agree but ill with them. While I was at Vienna there was a quarrel between them to an high degree. For the Scholars assaulted the Jews Town, beat, wounded, and threw divers of them into the River. Divers Scholars were wounded, some killed, and also some Soldiers who were commanded out to compose the Fray: and the Jews Town was guarded many days by the Soldiers of the City. This begot such ill Blood and Complaints; that a good number of the Jews were to be banished at a certain day. The Jews, to ingratiate with the Empress, then with Child, presented her with a noble Silver Cradle, but she would not receive it. And there was great danger of the general banishment of them when I left that City, which was afterwards effected, they being severely prohibited from living, not only at Vienna, but in any part of Austria, where there were formerly whole Villages of them, so as they were forced to betake themselves into the Dominions of the Turk, unto Venice, into Poland and Bohemia. They being not permitted to dwell in the Neighbour Countries of Hungary subject to the Emperor, Styria, or Carinthia.  
I must confess they seemed useful unto the place for ready accommodation of any thing, either by sale or exchange, but the people looked with an evil eye upon them, as taking away much of their Trade and Employment. They also looked upon them as useless in war for defence of the place; and were not without some jealousy that they held correspondence with the Turks, and gave Intelligence of their Affairs unto them. Yet the Soldiery dealt much with them, and Captains for the sudden habiting, furnishing, and accommodating of their Companies. And dining one day with a Commander at a Jews House, amongst other Discourse I asked the Jew concerning the ten Tribes, and where they were? He said they were far off in Asia, beyond a great Lake which was continually stormy, and scarce passable, but upon their Sabbath-day, upon which days the Jews do not willingly travel.  
I have seen their Circumcision at Rome, Milan, and other parts. Their Physicians ordinarily profess great skill in Urines; and the common people resort unto them rather than unto Christians, and are so credulous, and have such an opinion of them, that they might be made to believe they have some old Receipts of King Solomon.  
There are many Jews in Italy, yet they seem to me to be in greater numbers in Germany. In Amsterdam they are also grown very numerous. At Franckfurt they told me there were seven thousand of them, which seemed scarce credible. At Colen they are in great numbers: at Hamburg not a few. But the greatest number surely is in Prague.  
Though they be permitted in many Countries, yet divers Christian Princes and States have assigned them some mark in their Habits, to distinguish them. In Avignon their Hats are yellow. In Italy their Hats are covered over with Taffate. In Germany they wear Ruffs and Gowns with great Capes. In Holland I observed no distinction. But the Jews there, most of them having come out of Portugal, there may be some suspicion of them from their Complexion.  
Lastly, when I consider the old strength of Vienna, consisting in an old wall and a deep ditch, I cannot much wonder that Mathias Corvinus, King of Hungary, took this City. And I must ascribe it, under God, unto the singular valour and resolution of the Defendants, that Solyman the Magnificent, with two hundred thousand men, was not able to take it, and though he made large breaches, could never enter it, but lost some thousands at an Assault, and departed at last with the loss of a great part of his Army. But this place is now in a far better condition, strongly fortified, and able to resist the greatest Forces of Turkey. The houses are cleared from the wall; and yet for better security, when I was there, Count Souches advised the Emperor to pull down part of the Suburbs upon the other side of the nearest branch of the Danube, lest the Turks might take advantage to play upon the two Bastions on that side.  
It would be a sad loss for Christendom if this place were in the hands of the Turk; and no man knows where he would rest. If he should begin with this place, and take it, the strong holds of Rab, Komara, and Leopoldstadt would want their support, and soon fall into his possession; and if he were Lord of Austria, a great part of Germany would lie bare unto him: and probably it would not be long before he visited Italy, into which Country he would then find other ways than by Palma nova.   

A JOURNEY FROM VIENNA IN AUSTRIA TO HAMBURG.  
TAking a farewell of the Imperial City of Vienna, I ordered my Journey for Prague in Bohemia, which is usually six days Journey by Coach in the Summer, and eight in the Winter. I went over the great Bridge of Vienna, upon the large Stream of the Danube, passing by the Chapel of St. Bridget, of an eight-square Figure. This Bridge is a very great and massy work, supported by many high Trees, and Timber, and hath between two and three thousand Trees laid upon it cross, or side by side, from one side of the Bridge to the other, for the passage over it, after the Germane manner of making Bridges. At Ratisbone there is a handsome Stone-bridge over the Danube, and between that place and Vienna, divers of Wood; but from Vienna to Belgrade I observed none but what were made with Boats.  
Having passed the River, I entered into the Trans-Danubian Austria, or that part of Austria which lieth between the Danube and the River Theya, and came unto Corneuburg, a pretty Town, about which place the Emperor often hunteth; it is near the Hill Bisneberg, which is opposite unto Kalenberg. The Swedes advanced far when they took this place in the last wars, and held it so well, that they were not easily forced out of it. From thence I came to Stockerau, near the mouth of the River Mida, where it runneth into the Danube. A place much noted for the death of St. Colman a Scotch Saint, highly honoured in these parts. From thence to Guntersdorff, so to Colnedorff or Koldorff, which although it be on the South of the River Theya, is accounted the first Village of Moravia, and then came unto Znaim.  
In all this part of Austria, which extendeth a great length on the North-side of the Danube, conceived to have been anciently inhabited by the Marcomanni and Quadi, there are few or no Towns of antiquity, largeness, or note; for the Romans made their Stations and Colonies upon the Southside of the Danube; but the Country is full of Villages, and populous. One of the chiefest Towns is Crembs, which some call Cremona Austriae, which I saw as I came down the Danube. A great part of this Country was notably harrassed and plundered by the Swedes. The Soil is light, and easy to be ploughed.  
Znaim is a handsome place, with many painted Houses in it, and accounted the fourth chief Town in Mahrens, or Moravia; Olmütz, Brün, and Iglaw being the other three, famous for the death of the Emperor Sigismond. It is seated by the River Theya, which divideth Moravia from Austria, and running at last into the River Mark, affordeth accommodation of passage into the Danube.  
From thence we passed by Ulverskirken, Paulitz, and Moravian Budweisse to Zimmaw, and by Byrnitz came to Igla, or Iglau, upon the River Igla, which at last runneth into the great River Marck, a very pleasant place, seated upon a Hill, on the Frontiers of Bohemia. It is well fortified à la moderna, upon one side, and hath one of the largest Piazza's that I have seen.  
Moravia, is a pleasant and fruitful Country affording plenty of necessaries for life; the people are plain-dealing, stout, and make good Soldiers. It is commodiously furnished with Rivers, the greatest whereof is the Mora or Marck, which arising in the Northern part thereof, runneth quite through the Country, and entereth the Donaw not far from Presburg. The other considerable Streams are the Theya or Thaisa, the Swarta, the Schwitta, which run into the Marck. In the last Turkish wars the Tartars having passed the Wag in Hungaria, made incursions into Moravia, and carried away some thousands of the Inhabitants.  
Leaving Igla, we soon came into Bohemia, first coming into Stecken, then to Teutchin Broda by the River Saczua, formerly a strong place, taken by Zisca the famous Bohemian General, who then forced the Emperor Sigismond to fly out of Bohemia by the way of Igla. From thence we came to Heberne, and so to Janikaw: At this place, upon the 24th of February, 1643. was fought that memorable Battle between the Swedes, commanded by Leonard Torstenson, and the Imperialists under Count Hatzfield, Goetz, and other Commanders. The Imperialists had the better at first; but falling upon the Enemy's Baggage, and being too greedy of Booty, they were defeated, three thousand slain, four thousand taken prisonners, with their General Hatzfield, and six or seven Colonels. The success hereof gave the Swedes advantage to proceed further, and into Silesia and Austria. In this Town meeting with a Gentleman who came from Schaclitz, which is not far from the Risgeburg, or Mountain of Giants, about the Head of the River Elbe, I enquired of him concerning the spirit Ribensal, which is said to infest that Country, but he could say nothing therein of his own knowledge; and though he was confident that there was such a Spirit, yet he confessed that for twelve years it had done no hurt. In Hills, Mountains, and places of Mines such reports are ordinary. It is reported that a Spirit haunts the Silver Mines of Brunswick: And another to be in the Tinn Mine of Slackenwalde in this Country of Bohemia, and to walk in the shape of a Monk, who strikes the Miners, sings and plays on the Bagpipes, and doth many such Tricks. And Agricola in the latter end of his Sixth Book Dear Metallica, gives this for one reason why Mines, or passages in Mines, are given over.  
From Janikaw I traveled to Czaslaw, a good Town, and the chiefest in the Czaslawer Circle: In this place they say that Zisca was buried, that famous Bohemian General; he lost one Eye by an Arrow, and was at length blind of both, yet gave not over the war, and proved successful in it. He wished his Friends to make a Drum of his Skin, which should serve to fright away their Enemies. And though he cared not for any Sepulchral Monument, yet he had one in this place.  
From Czaslaw we came to Guttenberg, or Cottenberg, about eight Bohemian miles from Prague, every mile being five or six English miles. A large Town, and much frequented, not far from the River Albis or Elbe, of especal note for the Silver Mines about it: The Hills near it are not high, and consequently the Mines are not so deep as those of Hungary, and some others in Germany; yet some are above seventy or eighty Fathoms. They have wrought at these Mines seven hundred years, and there are about thirty of them. I went down into that which was first digged, but afterwards left for a long time, but they work there now again, it is called the Cotna, or Auf der Cotten, upon the Cotten, or Coat-hill; and as the Story goeth, a Monk walking over this Hill found a kind of a Silver Tree sticking to his Garment, which was the occasion that they afterwards digged and built these Mines, and the place retains the name of Cottenberg.  
The Mine into which I descended near the Town, is but nineteen Fathoms deep; the chief Vein of the Ore runneth South, and is about a foot in breadth: the Ore holdeth or containeth in it Silver and Copper, so that out of an hundred pound weight of Ore, they ordinarily get an Ounce of Silver, and eight, nine, or ten ounces or more of Copper, even to pounds, but it is not well known, for the Copper-works are the Emperors. The Undertakers get out what Silver they can, and afterwards sell the Ore unto the Emperor's Officers; but some Ore is sorich as to contain eight or nine ounces of Silver. A blue Earth which they meet with in digging, affords the best hopes of Ore. Two men lately perished in this Mine, having made a fire in it, being either choked with the smoke, or, as they thought, by the poisonous exhalations forced out of the Minerals by the fire. I have read that Libussa the Princess, and reputed Sorceress of Bohemia, foretold many things concerning these Mines; but certain it is, that for the advantage and profit these bring, the Town hath suffered much in many wars. The Emperor Sigismond made haste out of it upon the approach of Zisca, and seeing he could not hold it, burned the Town; but it was soon rebuilt and possessed by Zisca, whose party called it the Purse of Antichrist.  
Leaving Cottenburg, I came to Colline and to Bohemian Broda, so named to distinguish it from Dutch or Teutonick Broda before mentioned, a considerable good Town, and from thence came to Prag, or Prague, the Capital and Royal City of the Kingdom of Bohemia. The Walls of this City seem to enclose the greatest Citcuit of ground of any I have seen in Germany, but the Hills and void spaces within it take up a large Tract, and therein it is like the City of Lion in France; it is seated upon the River Muldau, by the Bohemians named Ultave, a large rapid River, arising in the South part of Bohemia, and before at arriveth at Prague, receiveth the River Sarsua and the Watta into it; and Northward of Prague the River Egra, and joineth with the Elbe.  
This great place consisteth of three Towns, named the Old, the New, and the Kleine Seitten, or lesser Town. The old Town lieth upon the East of the River Muldau, is very populous, full of Buildings, private and public. Very considerable in this part is also the University, wherein are great numbers of Students and Scholars, there being but one University in Bohemia; many persons also resorting thither from other Countries. It is scarce credible what is reported of the number of Scholars in Prague in former Ages, as hath been delivered by divers Authors. And Lewis du May, Counsellor unto the Duke of Wittenburg, affirmeth, That there are at present scarce so many Students in all Germany, as there were at Prague in the year 1409. when they reckoned above Forty thousand under the Rectorship of John Hus. Charles the Fourth, Emperor, and King of Bohemia, founded the University of Prague, giving equal privileges to the Bohemians, Polanders, and Germans: and when he would retrench his favours towards Strangers, there went out of the Town in a week's time twenty four thousand Scholars, and a little after, sixteen thousand, whereby we may judge there were more Scholars in Prague than other persons in some great Cities. There are also in this old Town divers Colleges and Cloisters. The Jesuits have a fair, handsome College, near unto the Bridge, but the Buildings of the old Town are inferior to those of the lesser Town.  
The new Town is large, and together with the River, encompasseth the old, and is divided from it by a large Trench or Ditch, in o which they can let in the River. The Irish have a Cloister of Franciscans near unto an old Tower in the Wall of the old Town. The Jesuits have also begun a large Cloister, which, if finished according to its beginning and design, will be very spacious and noble. They are now making Bastions about the Town at one end thereof; there is also a Citadel, but not finished, at Wisseraht, or Wissegrade, formerly the Seat of the Princes of Bohemia, and also of the famous Princess Libussa, the Daughter of Crocus, and Wife unto Primislaus.  
The Kleine Seitten, or lesser Prague, far exceedeth the other for pleasantness and beauty of Buildings and fair Palaces. This part lieth Westward of the River Muldaw, which between this and the old Town, is passable by a strong Stone-bridge, consisting of sixteen great Arches, being about Seventeen hundred foot long, and Thirty five foot broad, and two open Gates under two high Towers of Stone at each end. A great part of this Town lieth high, and upon the Hill standeth Hratschin, or Upper Prague, and a Summer House of the Emperors, besides a Magnificent Palace of the Emperors, as King of Bohemia; and by it a fair Cathedral Church dedicated to St. Veit, first built by St. Wenceslaus, Duke of Bohemia, 923. from whence the Town and River is best viewed. In this Church are divers old Monuments for great Persons; as for Pogiebrachius a Bohemian King, Wenceslaus, Rodolphus the Second, Charles the Fourth, Ladislaus, Maximilian the Second, and other Archduke's and Emperor's. There are also many Houses of the Nobility in this part of the City. The Palace and Garden of Colaredo is exceeding neat, though small. But I was most pleased with the Palace of Count Wallensteyn, Duke of Friedland, General unto the Emperor Ferdinand the Second, who being suspected to Usurp that Kingdom, was afterwards killed at Egra. This Palace was built upon the Ruins of an hundred Houses, purposely plucked down to make room for it; wherein the Hall is large, the Garden handsome; upon one side whereof there is a place to manage Horses, and near unto it a Fishpond: in another part there is a noble Aviary with a Garden and Trees in it, after the manner of the Aviary of Prince Doria at Genoa, which is eighty paces long, and eighteen broad. The Stable is large, and worth the seeing, wherein there is a Marble Pillar between each Horse, and for every Horse there is placed in a nich of the Wall a Rack of Steel, and Manger of Marble, and over his Head hangeth a Picture of the Horse, as big as the Life, with his Name under it. Among the rest, I observed that a Bay-horse had for his Name Monte d'Oro, a Mare, Bella donna, another Espagnoletta, and his most beloved Horse was named Master Querido.  
Some have thought that the best high German is spoken in this part of Prague; and there living so many of the Nobility and great Persons, it is not to be wondered at, that their Language is better than ordinary. But the common Language of Bohemia is a Dialect of the Sclavonian, though very many speak also High dutch, as we found in all our passage through that Country. Koningsmark being with his Forces on the Frontiers of Bohemia, a discontented Colonel of the Imperialists came unto him, making it probable that he might surprise Hratschin, and the lesser side of Prague, which he suddenly attempted, and so successfully, that he surprised many Officers, and old Colaredo in his Bed, getting so great a Booty, that he could scarce carry it away.  
A part of Prague is inhabited by Jews, and called the Jews Town; there are no small number of them, and many rich, as trading in all Commodities, and have good skill in Jewels, and several sorts of Stones digged out of the Mines in Bohemia: I bought some Bohemian Topazes of them, neatly cut and well-figured, and some which were very large and clear, were at the rate of seven or eight Dollars. During my stay here, I had a great desire to have saluted Johannes Marcus-Marci, a famous Physician and Philosopher of Prague, and also to have induced him to a Correspondence with the Royal Society, but I understood that he had left this World, to the great grief of Learned Men in these and other parts.  
Many here do speak still of John Hus and Jerome of Prague, and I have seen Silver Medals of them. They were surely very notable men; and I shall only set down what Aeneas Silvius, or Pope Pius the Second said of them. Johannes aetate major & authoritate, doctrinâ & facundiâ superior Hieronymus, pertulerunt ambo constanti animo necem, & quasi ad Epulum invitati ad incendium properarunt, nullam emittentes vocem quae miseri animi posset far indicium: ubi ardere ceperunt, hymnum cecinere quem vix flamma & fragor ignis intercipere potuit, nemo Philosophorum tam forti animo mortem pertulisse traditur quam isti incendium. In Hist. Bohemica. John was or greater years and authority, Jerome of more Eloquence and Learning: both of them endured their Death with great constancy, and went unto the fire as though invited to a Banquet: when they began to burn, they sung an Hymn, which the flame and fire could scarce intercept. None of the old Philosophers endured their death with such a courageous mind as these the fire.  
The same Author compareth Prague unto the City of Florence in Tuscany, wherefore having seen both places, I cannot omit to say something. I had a view of the City of Florence from the top of the Domo, or Cathedral, and of Prague from the Church of St. Veit, upon the Hill in the lesser Town: Prague seemed to my eye to contain a far greater Circuit than Florence; it seemed also more populous, and to exceed it very much in the number of People, the Streets larger, and the Windows of Palaces and fair Houses being of Glass, looked not so tatterdly as the ragged Paper Windows of Florence. The River Arno, which runs through Florence, is not to be compared with the Muldau at Prague, having run about an hundred miles from its Head. The large, massy, long Stone-Bridge exceedeth any of, if not all, the four Bridges of Florence. The Emperor's Palace also upon the Hill is very stately: But as for the well-paved Streets of Florence, the Domo or Cathedral with black and white Marble, with a Cupola, second only to that of St. Peter's of Rome, for the incomparable Chapel of St. Laurence, and the Duke's Gallery and Rarities, I must confess I saw not any thing in Prague which answered them. At Weissenberg, or the white Hill near Prague, that deciding Battle was fought Novemb. 8. 1620. between Frederick Prince Palatine of the Rhine, elected King of Bohemia, and the Forces of the Emperor Ferdinand the Second, which gave such a deep blow unto the Protestant Party, wherein so many of Frederick's Forces were slain and drowned in the River in their slight, wherein also that famous Commander Papenheim was found lying among the dead, who notwithstanding died not of his wounds, but was reserved to end his days with the King of Sweden in the memorable Battle of Lutzen.  
From Prague I designed to pass by water down the Muldaw, which uniteth with the Elbe about Melnick, and so down the Elbe unto Hamburg. But the Winter advancing, and the Wether proving cold, the Boats did not go as in Summer, and therefore I took my Journey by Land, and leaving Prague and the Muldau on the right hand, I passed the first day to Zagethal, the next to Weluerne, and so to Budin and Labasitz upon the Elbe. Having passed over the Egra, a considerable River, arising not far from the City of Egra, and at last running into the Elbe; the next day by the Castle of Kriegstein, or Warrestone, seated upon a high steep Rock, I came to Ausig, a small City not far from the Elbe, having little remarkable in it, like many other small Cities of Bohemia, and so forward to Nolndorff, where we lodged upon Mount Kninsberg, the day after we entered into Misnia, passing by Peterswald, and Hellendorff the first Village in Misnia, and Kisibel, where are Iron Mines about eighteen Fathoms deep, and Iron works.  
We now understood that Bohemia was a larger Country than we expected; it lieth round, and some say it is three days postage over; others that the Diameter extendeth two hundred miles. From Igla upon the Confines unto Hellendorff, it took me nine days Journey in November by Coach, not reckoning the time I stayed at Prague. In many places there are very ill Passages, and so rudely mended with great Trees, laid side by side, that they are often very troublesome to pass.  
We traveled afterwards towards Dresden, in a fruitful Country, wherein were many Deer in most parts of the way, in sight of the Castle of Pilnitz, a strong place, and seated high. I could not but cast an eye on the Rocks behind us in the Forest of Bohemia, which looked like the Ruins of a Wall which formerly enclosed Bohemia, which Country is described with a Forest or Woods round about it. But I confess I did not really perceive that there was such a Wood round about it as is commonly set forth in Maps; only both within, and also in many parts of the Borders, there are great Woods which are conceived to have been part of the Hercinian Forest.  
The Bohemians are a strong, stout, and hardy People, make good Soldiers, and have made great wars both at home and abroad; and Histories are full of their warlike Exploits. The chief Magazine of the King is at Egra, a strong City, accounted the Second of Bohemia. The Country affordeth also lusty and strong Horses. The common sort of People are boisterous, rough, and quarrelsome, especially in drink, whereto they are too much addicted. The Nobility and Gentry are civil and kind unto Strangers. There are many great Families of the Nobility, among which that of Rosenberg and Popel is ancient, and of high esteem. Since the unhappy accepting of the Crown by Frederick Count Palatine, and the ill success upon it, there hath been a great alteration in this Country, both as to People and their Manners; for thereupon many thousands left the Kingdom, and many who remained, turned their Religion. And the Emperors have used the like severity upon others in their Hereditary Dominions.  
The next considerable place we came unto was Dresden in Misnia, as well worth the seeing, as almost any Town in Germany. Dresden is the Seat and Residence of the Elector of Saxony, seated upon the River Elbe, over which there is a very noble Stone-bridge of Seventeen Arches. The City is very well fortified after the Modern way, the Bastions Revestues, and in each Bastion a Cavalier: It hath also a large Trench or Ditch about it, in some places double; and the River Elbe addeth unto its strength. The Walls are very strong: and they say, that when the first Stone was laid to build them, there was placed in the Earth a Silver Cup gilded, a Book of the Laws, and another of Coins, and three Glasses filled with Wine. It hath also three Gates. The places most worth the seeing are these: The Italian Garden in the Suburbs; the Hunter's House in the old Town beyond the River; the Electors Palace; his House for wild Beasts; his Stable-house and Arsenal, of which I shall set down some things observable in their kind. In the Electors Palace, the Hall is very large, and handsomely painted with Cities, Giants, and the Habits of several Nations, and set out with seven large branched Candlesticks: But that which affordeth the greatest delight is his Kunstkammer, Art-Chamber, or Collection of Rarities, both of Art and Nature. In the first Partition are to be seen all manner of well-made Instruments belonging to most Trades, as Joiner's, Turner's, Barbers, Smiths, Surgeons, and other Artificers: Instruments to force open Doors, Chests, etc. In the other Chambers these and the like are observable.  
A Tube-glass four els long. A large blue Turkish-glass. Variety of Coral and artificial Works of it. Fowls made out of Mother of Pearl. Drinking Cups in the shape of Dragons, Elephants, etc. Castles of Gold and Mother of Pearl. Many Fowls and Cups made out of Nautili, and other Shells, and out of Oestrich-eggs. A fine Oestrich made out of its Egg, with the Feathers of Gold. A Cup made out of the Ball taken our of an Ox's Stomach, richly set, about a foot long. A Stone as big as my fist, like a Bezoar-stone, taken out of a Horse. A Purse made out of the Linum Incombustibile. Silver Over from the Mines of Freiberg, almost pure, in strings and shoots. A Natural Cross of Silver Ore. One hundred and twenty one Heads carved on the outside of a Cherry-stone. A Religious Man or Friar of Japan carved in Box. A Crystal Cabinet, sold by Oliver Cromwell, wherein is kept a Ring which hath Stones in it in the shape of a Castle. His Majesty King Charles the Second on Horseback, carved out of Iron. A Head of King Charles the First. A Glass Organ, Topazes unpolished, ten Inches in Diameter. A Cup out of a Topaz. Emeralds an inch in Diameter, as they grow in the Rock, resembling the Vitriolum Nativum, as I saw it in Paradise-hill by Schemnitz in Hungary. Stones named Thunder stones, smelling of Fire. Rocks made out of all sorts of Ore, and the names of the places written upon them from whence they were digged.  
The Figures of Fishes in Stones out of Mansfield; the Stones are dark-coloured, but the Fishes of a Gold or Copper colour. All sorts of Stones which are to be found about Saxony and Misnia polished. Two large pieces of pure Virgin Gold out of the Mine. A Cabinet of all sorts of Apothecary's Instruments and chief Drugs. A Hart with a Cabinet made in his side, containing all Medicines taken from a Hart. A white Hart as big as the Life, made out of the shave and filings of Heart's horn, and looking like Plaster. Figures printed in Trees. A Spur in part of a Tree. Horns in Trees.  
A Chamber of all manner of Mathematical Instruments and Charts. A good Library of Mathematical Books An Unicorns-horn, which they will have to be of a Land Unicorn, being neither wreathed nor hollow. A Dart of Unicorns-horn. Among the Pictures in the same Chambers these seemed remarkable: A Picture by Colier, of the Siege of Jerusalem, with great number of Figures, and highly esteemed. Four Heads of the Elements made out of the Creatures which belong to them in Caricatura. A painting of Merchant's Letters stuck behind green Tape. A Storm by Rubens. Two Nuns by Lucas van Leyden. A Picture of Dr. Luther in the Cloister, in his Gown, and after his Death. There is also great variety of excellent Clockwork, and an attempt for a perpetual motion by a rolling bullet. A Cuckoo singeth by Clockwork, a Horsman rideth, a Ship saileth, an old Woman walketh, a Centaur runneth and shooteth, a Crab creepeth upon a Table so well as to amaze and delight; but among all, the Crab seems to be most naturally imitated.  
In the Stable house, besides the extraordinary noble Stable of Horses, wherein every Horse eats out of a Rack of Iron, and Manger of Copper; and on a Pillar by him his Comb, Bridle and Saddle, and other Necessaries, hang; besides a handsome Window with a Curtain before him. There are observable a very fair Fountain and pond set about with handsome Balisters, where the Horses are watered. A long walk arched and painted with Horses; over which is a Gallery with the Pictures of all the Dukes and Electors of Saxony, both in their Military and Electoral Habits. Two Beds of Marble. Drinking Cups which seem not great, yet so contrived as to hold divers quarts. A Spring which causeth a Horseman in Silver to come riding in, bringing a Cup of Wine in his hand. A pair of noble Pistols with all the Stories of the New and Old Testament upon them. A Glass Gun. A Gun which shoots off Forty times without charging again. A Piece which showeth the manner of the first invention of striking Fire in Guns. A Lock without a cock.  
A Chamber of rich Sleds for Horses, made use of in Jollity and pompous Courses upon the Snow. A white Bear's skin stuffed. Tigers and Lion's Skins. A Cassowares' Skin. Good Armour for Men and Horses. Many sorts of Indian Money, Duntans, and other sorts. A Picture of Laplanders and their Customs. A Lapland Drum with Figures to conjure by. A Chamber of all Hunting Arms and Necessaries.  
The Armamentarium-Armory or Arsenal, is a long, square Building, wherein are about Four hundred brass Pieces of Ordinance, great number of Muskets and Armour in the Upper Room. Silver Coats of Male. Pieces of Ordinance to be charged behind. Retorts and Alembics in the shape of Granados. The Steeple of the chief Church was lately burnt by Lightning, and the Canon melted which were upon it.  
In the Hunting-house, in the old Town, are fifteen Bears very well provided for and looked unto. They have Fountains and Ponds to wash themselves in, wherein they much delight: And near to the Pond are high ragged Posts or Trees set up for the Bears to climb up, and Scaffolds made at the top to sun and dry themselves; where they will also sleep, and come and go as the Keeper calls them. The Horn Gallery is also remarkable in this place, out of which there are three Chambers; one painted with several sorts of Hunting; another with all sorts of Fowl; and a third with great variety of Beasts.   depiction of the bear garden at Dresden, Meissen, Germany, featuring five bears, three on poles or platforms, one on the ground, and one swimming in a pool or pond 
The Elector of Saxony his Bear Garden at Dresden in Misnia.  Oliver. Fe 
In the House for wild Beasts I took notice of a Marian, which is a fourfooted Beast, that hangeth upon Trees by the Tail. Also a wild or Mountain-Cat of a large size. Five young Bears. Five old black Bears. A white Bear very large; the feet, the head, and the neck are longer than those of the black, but not so thick. Two Lions. Ten Luekses; very fine Beasts, in bigness, colour, and shape between a Tiger and a wild Cat; the tips of their Ears and Tails are black, their Eyes lively, their Skin Lion coloured, and spotted, especially about their Eyes.  
The Italian Garden and Summer-house in the Suburbs is very noble, wherein are two Obelisks, two gallant Fountains, a Theatre and good Landscapes. This Garden and Summer house were built by two of the Prince Electour's Eunuches, and afterwards sold unto the Prince for Six and twenty thousand Dollars.  
Dresden is but a late City, and was formerly a Village. The Churfurst, or Elector, was not in the Town; but the Chur-prince his Son was there: A Person rather of low than middle Stature, his Hair long and yellow, his Face ruddy, his Body well set and active, and he is very well beloved. The present Elector of Saxony is John George the Second, Grand Marshal of the Empire, a great and powerful Prince, who keeps a Royal Court and Attendance, having his Guards and Officers after the manner of Kings. His Dominions lie in Misnia, Thuringia Voytland, and part of Lusatia. His Revenues are large, from Impositions upon Commodities. His Profits great, from the Tax upon Beer, which ariseth to no small sum, especially in Wittenberg, Torga, and Leipsick. And his Silver Mines are considerable. And the Funeral of the last elector Joannes Georgius the First, was very magnificent 1657. at which there were twenty four Horses of State covered with black, and the Electoral Escutcheon embroidered thereon, and every one led by two Gentlemen, and three thousand five hundred persons in mourning.  
Dr. Luther's Holiday was kept when I was there. The chief Church is very fair: They preach every morning at seven a Clock. The Lutheran women mourn in white, as others do in Black: and the woman of the House doth ordinarily say Grace instead of the man. The best High-dutch is spoken in this place, and other parts of Misnia, which is a very pleasant fruitful Country, and full of good Towns and Villages.  
Leaving this noble place, I took not the nearest Road, but turned out of the way unto Freiberg, a place noted for Silver Mines; whereof I had read something in Agricola, and heard very much in these parts. About an English mile or two from Freiberg, there are many remarkable Mines. I took notice of three of them: One called Auff den hohen berg, or upon the high Hill, which is the deepest in these parts, as being seventy seven of their Fathoms deep; each of their Fathoms contains twelve of their els, and three of their els makes one of our Fathoms. So that the depth of this Mine exceedeth any of those wherein I was in Hungary. There is another Mine called Himmelfurst, or the Prince of Heaven, wherein not long since there was Over found so rich, as in an hundred pounds' weight to contain an hundred and thirty Marks of Silver, or sixty five pounds in the hundred, but there was not much of it: And where the Veins are richest, they are observed to be thinest, about two singers broad; but the ordinary Ore is but poor, holding an ounce, or an ounce and a half, in an hundred pounds' weight; and if it holdeth but half an ounce they work it. Nor is this much to be wondered at, for in the vast rich Mines of Peru and Chili, they will work the Silver o'er which containeth four or five ounces in a hundred pound weight, and ten or twelve ounces is the ordinary rate of the common Ore of that rich Mountain of Potosi, out of which Hill alone, if we believe Albero Alonso Barba, Curate of the Parish of St. Bernard in that City, there hath been more Silver taken than would cover all Misnia over and over: For thus he saith, Potosi hath already yielded between four and five hundred Millions of pieces of Eight. A quantity sufficient to make such another Hill of Silver: It is hard to form a conception equal unto so exorbitant a heap of Riches; but the better to help our imagination herein, know, that if the Ground were covered with so many pieces of Eight, laid as close to one another as is possible, they would take up the space of sixty Leagues square.  
Here at Freiberg they have many ways to open the Ore whereby it may be melted; as by Lead and a sort of Silver o'er which holds Led in it. They have also Sulphur Over found here, which after it is burned, doth help much towards the fusion of Metals: And besides these, Slich, or pounded and washed Over; and Slacken, which is the Dross or Cake, or Scum taken out of the Vortiegel, or Pan which receiveth the melted Minerals let out at the bottom of the melting Furnace. Their Treibshearth, or driving Furnace, where the lethargy is driven off, agreeth better with the Figure of it in Agricola, than those of Hungary; some of the lethargy is green: Their Buck-work and their Engines which pound the Ore, the Coal, and Clay, are also very neat. Much of their Ore is washed, especially the poorest, and that which is mixed with stones, quarts, or sparrs.  
This is peculiar in their working, that they burn the pounded and washed Over in the Roasthearth, before they melt it in the Smeltzoven, or melting Furnace.  
At these Mines of Hungary where I was, they used not the Virgula divina, or forked Hazel, to find out Silver Over, or hidden Treasure in the Earth; and I should little depend thereon: but here they have an esteem of it. And I observed the use thereof, and the manner how they did it. But I shall omit the Description of it, because it is set down in divers Books, and it cannot be so well described as shown to the Eye.  
I saw also another Mine, called Auff der Halsbrucker, about eighty of our Fathoms deep, and much worked: They have divers sorts of Ore; but they contain either Silver and Copper, Silver and Lead, or all three; but they work them only for Silver. They have divers damps in these Mines, where it is deep. The Mines are cold where the outward Air comes in; but where not, warm. The greatest trouble they have is by dust, which spoileth their Lungs and Stomaches, and frets their Skins. But they are not so much troubled with water; and have very good Engines to draw the water out.  
The Sulphur, or Brimstone o'er which is found here, is also rich; it is hard and stony, as other Oars are: that which hath red spots is accounted the best. They use a peculiar Furnace to melt the Brimstone from the Ore; some whereof yieldeth three pounds of Sulphur out of an hundred weight of Ore, which as it melteth runneth out of the Furnace into water, or the Exhalations from the Ore near or in the Fire, are condensed into Brimstone by the Surface of the Water placed to receive it; this is once again melted and purified. Some of the Brimstone Over containeth Silver, some Copper, and some both in a small proportion.   depiction of two German miners and their tools 
Two Miners in their habits  
Virgula Divina  
The figure of an Iron retort such as are used at the quicksilver work at Idria.  
The other use, and which is more considerable, is for the making of Vitriol, or Copperas in this manner: They take the Ore out of which the Brimstone hath been already melted, and burn it once again, or let it still burn in the open Air; then putting it into a large Fat, they pour water upon it, so as to imbibe and drink in the Vitriol; this Water is afterwards boiled to a sufficient height, and let out into the Coolers, where sticks are set in it, as in the making of Sugar Candy: The purest Chrystallized Vitriol sticks unto the wood, the rest to the sides and bottom. Thus the Sulphur Over, after the Sulphur is taken out of it, still worketh upon the Silver Over, and openeth the Body of it in the Fire; but when this Ore is also deprived of its Vitriol, it worketh no more upon Metals.  
Friberg is a round well-walled City; hath handsome Streets, a Piazza, the Elector's Castle, and five Gates. the Church of St. Peter is fair, where many of the Dukes and Ducal Family have been buried, and have fair Monuments; especially Duke Mauritius, Elector of Saxony, whose Monument in black Marble is raised three piles high, adorned with many fair statuas in Alabaster and white Marble, and esteemed one of the noblest, if not the best, in Germany. And when this Town was surrendered unto Holck and Gallas, Octob. 5. 1632. the Duke of Saxony paid 80000 Dollars to save the Monuments of his Predecessors from being ransacked and defaced, it being the fashion of divers Germane Princes to be buried in their Robes, with their Ensigns of Honour, Rings, Jewels, and the like, which would have been booty, and probably have run the same fortune as the Cloister of Haibron, within twelve English miles of Nurenberg, where some of the Marquess' of Onspach, who are of the Electoral House of Brandenburg, lie entombed, where Tillie's Soldiers broke open the Vault, and rob the dead Corpses of the Marquess', George Frederick, and Joachim Ernest, of the Jewels, Rings, and other rich Ornaments with which they were entombed.  
There are some Vaults and Subterraneous Cavities in the City, by which there are passages into the Mines. This place was formerly straight besieged by the Emperor Adolphus, for the space of a year and a month, and at last betrayed by a Fugitive, who let in a party of the Emperors into the Town by a Subterraneous Passage near St. Donats' Gate, and upon the continual Batteries made at the Town, and concussion of the Earth about it, the Earth sunk down in many places, and swallowed great numbers of the Emperor's Army.  
These Mines afford great benefit unto the City, and also unto the Elector; They are said to have been found out in the year 1180. But there have been other Silver Mines discovered since; as at Schneeberg, at Anneberg, and at Joachims' Dale, 1526.  
Having passed some time at Friberg, I ordered my Journey for Leipsick, and travelling by Waltheim and Coldick, came unto it.  
Leipsick is seated upon the River Elster, which arising in Vortland, or Terra Advocatorum, passeth by it, and afterwards runneth into the River Sala. It is a rich and great trading City; hath three Marts in the year, and great resort unto it from many parts: It is well-built, and divers Houses are seven stories high. The Castle is strictly guarded, and hath in it a strong white Town: But the Works about the Town are not very considerable, although they might be made strong.  
The Church of St. Nicholas is well adorned, and hath the name to be the fairest within side of any Lutheran Church in Germany; they have also a remarkable Burial-place or Godtsaker, walled about, and cloistered near the Wall, wherein the better sort are buried, as the rest in the middle and open part. Which put me in mind of that noble Burial-place which I saw at Pisa in Tuscany, called Il campo Santo, because the Earth which the Emperor Frederick Barbarossa brought from the Holy Land, for the Ballast of his Ships, was laid upon that Ground.  
Leipsick is famous for two great Battles fought near unto it in the last Swedish wars; one between Gustavus Adolphus, King of Sweden, and Count Tilly, General of the Imperialists, 1631. wherein the Swedes obtained a great Victory. Tilly was wounded, fled, and lived not long after. Another some years after in the same place, wherein Leonard Torstenson the Swede, overcame Archduke Leopoldus Gulielmus, and Octavio Piccolomini, Generals of the Imperial Army. And about a mile and a half from hence, at Lutzen, another great Battle was fought, 1632. between the King of Sweden and the Imperial Army, commanded by Albert Wallensteyn Duke of Friedland, wherein the Swedes obtained the Victory, but the King of Sweden was slain; and on the Imperial side that famous Commander, Godfrey Count of Pappenheim.  
There is also an University at Leipsick, first occasioned by the Germane Scholars of Prague, who in the troubles of the Hussites came hither, to the number of Two thousand in one day; and is still one of the Three Universities in the Elector's Dominions; the other being Jena by the River Sala, and Wittenberg upon the Elbe. In this University they are much addicted to the study of the Law, but there are also Learned men in other Faculties.  
The Magistrates of Leipsick are also considerable. Der herr von Adlershelme was the Burgomaster, a courteous Learned Person, and great Virtuoso, who had collected and observed many things: He hath had five fair Daughters brought up in all commendable ways of working, Drawing, Painting, Inlaying with Flowers, with Mother of Pearl, Stones, and other pretty Works. And they speak divers Languages, which they learned at a School in Holland: So that his House hath a great deal of excellent Furniture of his children's work, and is one of the most considerable Curiosities to be seen in Leipsick. His Summer-house is handsome, painted both within and without: And in the Water about, are Muscovy Ducks, Indian Geese, and divers rare Fowls. In his Chamber of Rarities there are many things considerable: But I have seen divers of them in other places, and lately set down some Varieties of the Elector of Saxony, I shall mention but a few.  
An Elephant's Head with the dentes molares in it. An Animal like an Armadillo, but the Scales are much larger, and the Tail broader. Very large flying Fishes. A Sea-horse. Bread of Mount Libanus. A Cedar-branch with the Fruit upon it. Large Granates as they grow in the Mine. A Sirens hand. A Chameleon made out of a Fish. A piece of Iron, which seemeth to be the head of a Spear, found in the Tooth of an Elephant, the Tooth being grown about it. The Isle of Jerscy drawn by our King. A piece of Wood with the Blood of King Charles the First upon it. A Greenland Lance with a large Bell at the end of it. Much Japan painting, wherein their manner of hunting and working may be observed. A Picture of our Saviour, the Hatches of which are writing, or written, and contain the story of his Passion. Bevers taken in the River Elbe. A Picture of the murder of the Innocents', done by Albert Durer. Pictures of divers strange Fowls. A Greenland Boat. The Skins of white Bears, Tigers, Hilves, and other Beasts. And I must not omit the Garter of an English Bride, with the story of it; of the Fashion in England for the Bridemen to take it off, and wear it in their Hat, which seemed so strange to the Germans, that I was obliged to confirm it to them, by assuring them that I had divers times wore such a Garter myself.  
Leaving this busy and trading City of Leipsick, I directed my Journey unto Magdeburg, and traveled through a plain Country, between the River Sala and the Elbe, by Landsberg, nigh to Petersdorff, where there is a small Hill which overlooks all the Country, so to Kihten, the Residence of the Prince of Anhalt, then to Caln, and over the River Sala, before it runneth into the Elbe, which arising at Mount Fichtelberg, now hasteneth towards it. Fichtelberg is a considerable Mountain, near which are divers Mines, Baths, and Mineral-waters, of which Gaspar Bruschius hath written a Description. And from it arise four Rivers, running to the four quarters of the World. The Main or Moenus, towards the West; the Nab or Nabus, towards the South; the Aeger towards the East; and the forementioned Sala towards the North. These four afterwards fall into the three greatest Rivers of Germany, the Danube, the Rhine, and the Elbe. Then to Sals or Saltz, a placed noted for Salt-springs, and that night to Magdeburg.  
Parthenopolis, or Magdeburg, is seated by the River Elbe, formerly the Metropolitan City of Germany, now under the Marquis of Brandenburg, of very great Circuit, but little more than half built again, since it was sacked and burnt by Tilly, and Thirty six thousand persons put to the Sword and destroyed. I could not but observe the ruinous and destructive effects of the late wars in many parts of Germany, but not in any so great and flourishing a place as this: And a man might think, that after this great destruction of Houses and People, this place should not be able to stand a Siege; yet a few years after it was besieged by General Hatzfield, unto whom (Bannier the Swede not being able to relieve it) it was yielded. The Cathedral Church is very fair, and built like an English one, by the Emperor Otho the First, and his Empress Editha, an English woman, Daughter unto King Edmund, whose Effigies in Stone I saw in the Church, with nineteen Tuns of Gold by her which she gave thereto. And to say the truth, English money hath done great things in Germany, for hereby, or with a good part thereof, this Church was built or endowed. Leopoldus, Duke of Austria, built the old Walls of Vienna with the ransom of King Richard the First, whom he detained in his return through Austria from the Holy Land. King Edward the First sent a great Sum of Money unto the Emperor Adolphus, for the raising of Soldiers in Germany, which the Emperor employed in purchasing a great part of Misnia for himself.  
The Lutheran Churches are handsome, and their Pulpits are extraordinary noble, and richly set off, as I observed, through all Saxony, Norimberg. And where they are Masters of the Places, and have not their Churches only by permission; here they shown me in the Cathedral Church of St. Maurice, the statuas of the five wise Virgins smiling, and of the five foolish Virgins lamenting, which are very well expressed: They shown me also two odd Relics, which they still kept as Rarities; that is, the Basin wherein Pilate washed his hands, when he declared himself free from the blood of our Saviour; and the Ladder whereon the Cock stood when he crowed after St. Peter's denying of Christ.  
In the Ruins of the Cloister of the Augustine's, there is still to be seen Luther's Chamber, his Bedstead, and Table, and upon the Door are these Germane Verses.  

This war Lutheri Kammerlin,  
Waner in's Closter kam herein,  
Gedachnis halb wird noch it zund  
Herein gesehen sein Bettespund.   
i e.  

Luther did lodge within this little Room,  
When first he did into the Cloister come;  
In memory whereof we still do keep  
The Bedstead upon which he used to sleep.   
I lodged at Magdeburg, in an old man's House, who would tell me many stories of the burning of the Town, the cruelties and bloody usage of the people, who were destroyed without exception: The Nuns, many of them being drowned in the River Elbe. After which some observed that Count Tilly never prospered in his wars. He told me also that Dureus lodged with him, who was employed by King Charles the First, to endeavour a reconciliation between the Lutherans and Calvinists in Germany, and to unite them if possible. We were now in the Territory of the Elector of Brandenburg, Fridericus Wilhelmus, Great Chamberlain of the Empire, who is in effect possessed of Magdeburg, and next unto the Austrian Family, is the most potent Prince in Germany, being able to raise great Armies, and his Dominions so large, that they are reckoned to extend two hundred Germane miles in length, from the further part of Prussia unto Cleve, but they lay not together, but interspersed with many other Prince's Countries: Howsoever, a Horseman may so order his Journey, as to lie every night in one of the Electour's Towns, in travelling from one end of his Territories to another.  
I had now left the pure Germane Language behind me, for at Magdeburg comes in another kind of Germane, called Plat-Deutch, Broad-Dutch, Nidersachsische, or the Language of lower Saxony; a great Language, spoken in the North part of Germany: They speak it at Hamburg, Lubeck, and many great Cities: But they can converse with the other High-dutch, and with some difficulty also with the Netherlanders; the one speaking in his Language, and the other replying in his.  
At this City of Magdeburg was performed the first Tournament that was in Germany, which was opened in the year 635. by the Emperor Henry, Surnamed the Fowler, who coming from the war of Hungary, exceedingly satisfied with the Nobility, would oblige them to exercise themselves in handling their Arms, and managing their Horses, and therefore instituted these Sports, whereby the Nobility was powerfully attracted to Valour and Gallantry, and induced to perfect and accomplish themselves in all kind of Chivalry. No new Nobility, no Bastard, no Usurper, none guilty of High Treason, no Oppressor of Widows and Orphans, none born of Parents whereof one was of base Extraction and Ignoble, no Heretic, Murderer, Traitor, no Coward that had run away from the Battle, nor indiscreet Person that had given offence to Ladies by word or deed, were admitted to this Honour, nor above One of the same Family at a time. Princes came into the Lists with four Squires a piece, Counts and Barons with three, a Knight with two, and a Gentleman with one.  
The hour and place for the Tournament being appointed, he that had a desire to break a Lance there, came to the Precedents Lodgings to have his Name written down, which was done in the presence of three Heralds, to whom the Champion delivered his Helmet and Sword, and after he had been at Confession, presented himself in the Lists with one or more Squires, according to his quality. The Horses of the Combatants were to be without fault or exception; the Caparisons and Furniture such as gave no offence; their Saddles without any extraordinary rising before and behind, and all things equal. After which they performed all kind of Exercises on Horseback: and after the Jousts were ended, every man repaired to the Precedent of his Nation, to wait for the Sentence of the Judges; and he that best deserved the Prize, received it either from the hand of some Lady, or from the Prince that gave it.  
These Pastimes were afterwards disused, upon the Emulation it caused between the Princes and Nobility, who strove to outvie one another; or upon wars, in which there was no leisure for such Exercises; or perhaps upon consideration that divers brave men lost their lives in these Encounters: And no less a Prince than Henry the Second, King of France, neglecting to wear his Beaver down, was slain in a Tournament. And at Darmstadt also, in the year 1403. at the Three and twentieth Tournament which was held in Germany, the Gentlemen of Franconia and those of Hesse, drew so much blood upon one another, that there remained dead upon the place seventeen of the former, and nine of the latter.  
The Winter growing on called me to make haste to Hamburg, from whence I intended to pass by Sea into England, and therefore I took the advantage of the Stage-Coaches at Magdeburg, and in four days came to Hamburg; I traveled through a Country for the most part barren, of little accommodation, or scarce any thing very remarkable, through part of the elector of Brandenburg, and then through the Duke of Lunenburg's Country, passing by the City of Lunenburg, a handsome walled City, beautified with divers fair Churches, with high Spires. The Church of St. Lambert, the Townhouse, and the Duke's Palace, are fair. Here are Salt-springs in the Town, very beneficial to the place, and supplying the neighbour Countries. The Town is commanded by a Hill near to it, called Kalkberg, which lieth on the North-side.  
In this Road through lower Saxony, I could not but take notice of many Barrows or Mounts of Earth, the burial Monuments of great and famous Men, to be often observed also in open Countries in England, and sometimes rows of great Stones, like those in Wormius his Danish Antiquities: And in one place I took more particular notice of them, where three massy Stones in the middle, were encompassed in a large square by other large Stones set up an end.  
Hamburg is a fair City, and one of the great ones in Germany; it is seated in a Plain, being populous, rich, and remarkably strong: It is fortified a la Modern, much after the way of Holland, with works of earth, but in no place yet Revestues, or faced with brick or stone: The Territory belonging to it is but small; it is divided into the new and the old Town. There are five Gates: The Stone gate, leading towards Lubeck; the Dome-gate; the Alten-gate, or which leadeth unto Altenaw, a place near the Town, belonging to the King of Denmark, where the Romanists and Calvinists have their Churches; the Bridge-gate; and the Dike-gate. The Buildings of this City are handsome, and commonly have a fair entrance into them. The Senate-house is noble, adorned with carved statuas of the Nine Worthies. The Exchange or place of meeting for Merchants, was then enlarging, it being too small to receive those Numbers which frequented it. Many of their Churches are very fair, with high Steeples, covered with Copper. The Front of St. Katherine's is beautiful. The Steeple of St. Nicholas is supported with great gilded Globes. The other great Churches, are the Dome-Church, St. Peter, St. Jacob. The greater and less, St. Michael, the New-Church in the New town. The lesser Churches, are St. Gertrude, St. Marry Magdalen, and the Holy Ghost. They have a Sermon every day, as in other Lutheran Cities.  
The River Alster runs through it into the Elbe, and turneth many Mills: and the Tide comes up into divers Streets through Channels, although it be distant eighteen German miles from the Sea, or Mouth of the Elbe. This place aboundeth with shipping, and many of good Burden, and is well seated for Trade, as having an open passage into the Ocean, and being but a days Journey from the Lubeck on the Baltic Sea, and being seated upon the long River Elbe, the third great River of Germany, whereby it may have Commerce with a great part of that Country, and as far as Bohemia.  
Hamburg is full of Strangers and Merchants of several Countries. The English Company have good Privileges and a rich Trade, and Ships come laden thither with Cloth to the value of an hundred thousand pounds sterling; and they live here in good Reputation, and to the honour of their Country: they are Persons of worth, courtesy, and civility; and I hearty wish them all success in their Affairs. I must not omit the acknowledgement of my particular Obligation to that learned and worthy Person, Mr. Griffin, Preacher unto the Company, Mr. Free the Treasurer, Mr. Banks, who hath been in many places of Anatolia, and the Holy Land, Mr. Jenkinson, and my very obliging Friends Mr. Catelin and Mr. Townly.  
This place hath the happiness to be quiet when the great Princes of Europe are at war; for it desires to hold a strict Amity with Princes, and declines all Dissension with them.  
I found a Ship at Hamburg bound for London, and while it was fitting for Sail, I made a short excursion into part of the King of Denmark's Country; and returning to Hamburg again, I ordered my affairs for England upon the first wind, and hoped the next Tide to get over the Altenaw sand, and to pass the Blanckness, but a cross wind prevented, so that I left not Hamburg till the tenth of December, and then I had the good Company of Mr. Hoyle, who came from Narva, and set Sail in a new Ship; but the days being at the shortest, and the nights dark in the New Moon, the Tide falling also in the day time, we were able to get no further the first day than Stadt, or Stoade, upon the River Zwingh, a strong Town, belonging to the King of Sweden, where the Ships that come up the River pay Custom, and where the English Merchants had formerly their Residence, when they left Hamburg upon a Discontent.  
December the 11th. we came by Gluckstadt, belonging to the King of Denmark, where the Castle, the King's Palace, and the Church are handsome, and Anchored that night before the Mouth of the River Oast, which ariseth in Bremerland, and falleth into the Elbe a mile from Brunsbüttel, on the other Holsatian shore.  
December the 12th. we lost sight of the Northern shore, and passed Cook's Haven, in full hopes to put out to Sea that night; but about Three in the Afternoon we were becalmed a League and a half below it, where we were forced to come to an Anchor again, lest the strong Ebb should set us on ground among the Sands: So we lay that night between Thicksand on the North, and Newark on the South, right over against a Light-house.  
December the 13th. the wind turning Westernly, and blowing hard, we returned to Cook's Haven, and came to Anchor. Here I came a shore, and went up the Land to the Fort in this place belonging to the City of Hamburg: It is a high square Work, with a double Ditch, and some Vessels come up to the Fort; but the Ditch or Channel which comes thither out of the Elbe, is dry at low water. The Town is called Reutsbüttel, not far from the Lands end. Two or three days after, with a cold North-East-wind, we set Sail for England. Coming out of the Elbe, we were all the Afternoon in sight of an Island, called Heilige-landt, or Holy-land, belonging to the Duke of Holstein, which being very high Land, is to be seen at a good distance, and is of excellent use to direct and guide Ships into the Mouth of the Elbe, without which they would be at a great loss, the Country about that River's Mouth being all very low Land.  
Heiligeland is a small Island, having about two thousand Inhabitants, and six or seven small Vessels belonging to it, which are employed a great part of the year in bringing Lobsters and other Fish to London or Quinborough, the Inhabitants living most upon Fish. We bore out to Sea all night, and the next day made towards the Land again, and sailed in sight of Schiemoniekeoghe, Amelandt, and Schelling: in the Evening we saw the Lights at the Vly and Texel; when we were near the Land, we were much troubled with the Frost and cold Wether, and less when we were off at Sea. The next day we had a fair wind, and made such way, that in the Evening we took down our Sails, and let the Vessel drive, not being willing to deal with the shore in the night. The next morning we soon discovered the Northforeland covered with Snow, and came to an Anchor in Margarite-Road, where the wind growing very high, we road it out for two days and two nights, and came safe on shore (praised be God) upon Christmas-day morning.  
Now having made so long a walk in Germany, I must confess I returned with a better opinion of the Country, than I had before of it; and cannot but think it very considerable in many things. The Rivers thereof are noble, and seem to exceed those of France and Italy. Of the Rivers of Italy, the Padus or Po, is the most considerable, which notwithstanding, hath not very long course, before it runneth into the Adriatic Sea. And Italy being divided by the Appennine-hills, running from West to East, the Rivers which arise from either side, cannot be long, neither on the Southside, before they run into the Mediterranean, as the Arno, Garigliano, and others: Nor on the North side, before they run into the Adriatic, or the Po  
The chief Rivers of France, as the Loire, the Seine, the Rhosne, and the Garonne, I cannot but highly commend, having passed upon them for divers days. There are also four great Rivers in Germany; the Danube, the Rhine, the Elbe, and the Oder, but none of France seem comparable unto the Rhine and Danube. France having the Sea upon the North, the West, and the two large Provinces of Languedoc, and Province upon the Mediterranean Sea, hath the opportunity of Noble Cities and Seaports: But some doubt may be made, Whether any thereof do exceed Hamburg, Lubeck, and Dantzick.  
The great number of populous, large, and handsome Cities, doth afford great content unto a Traveller in Germany; for besides about Sixty six free Imperial Cities, are many more of good note belonging to particular Princes, and divers highly privileged. And surely a true Estimation of the Cities and Towns of these days, cannot be duly made from the Accounts and Descriptions thereof left an hundred years since or more, for since those times, Buildings have been better modelled and ordered; Fortifications and Outworks more regularly contrived; Convents and Public Houses more neatly and commodiously built; and the fair Colleges and Churches of the Jesuits, which are now to be seen in most, do much set off the Beauty of great Places. Every where we meet with great and populous Towns, Villages, Castles, Seats of the Nobility, Plains, Forests, and pleasant Woods. And besides the satisfaction we may have from Objects above ground, we may find no small content in the wonders thereof under it, in Mines, Minerals almost of all sorts, of Gold, Silver, Copper, Iron, Tinn, Led, Quicksilver, Antimony, Coal, Salt, Sulphur, Cadmia, and others, where there are also singular Artificers and Workmen, in the several Artifices thereof. Conversation with the People is easy, they behaving themselves without much Formality, and are plain-dealing and trusty, so that a Traveller needs not to be so solicitous and heedful of what he hath, as in some other Countries, which are esteemed of greater Civility. The Women are generally well-complexioned, sober, and grave, and they have not yet learned the custom of their Neighbours of France and Holland, to admit of being saluted by Men: faithful to their Husbands, and careful in the affairs of their Houses.  
They make good provision against the cold of their Country, by sleeping between two Featherbeds and Stoves.  
The common Stoves in Inns, wherein there are for the most part several Companies eating, drinking, and in the night sleeping, are convenient, considering the great cold, or at least tolerable; but they being rooms close shut up, the smell of the meat, and especially of Cabbage, an usual Dish amongst them, makes them unpleasant, so that sometimes I preferred the course of hot Countries, while I called to mind, that in Province and Italy we drank frozen Julebs, which we dissolved with the heat of our hands; slept upon a sheet, on the outside of the Bed, with all the Windows of the Chamber open; and as we sat at dinner, there was a Fannio in the middle of the Room, hanging over our Heads, about two yards broad, which with a string was pulled backward and forward to cool us, and divers had Pan's filled with Snow, to cool the sheets when they went into their Beds.  
Germany is a great Hive of men, and the mighty destruction of men made by the last Germane wars, and by the Plague is so repaired, that it is scarce discernible. They are fruitful, and full of Children: They are not exhausted by Sea, Colonies sent forth, or by peopling American Countries; but they have some consumption by wars abroad, when they be at peace at home: few wars being made in other parts of Europe, wherein there are not some Regiments of Germans; the People being naturally Martial, and persons well descended, very averse from a Trading course of Life.  
While I read in Tacitus of the old barbarous and rude State of Germany, how poorly they lived, that they had their Houses at a distance from one another; how ignorant they were in Arts; and it was doubted whether their Country afforded Mines; that they lived by exchange of things, making little or no use of money, and the like, I may justly wonder to behold the present advance and improvement in all commendable Arts, Learning, Civility, splendid and handsome Cities and Habitations, and the general face of things incredibly altered since those ancient times; and cannot but approve the expression of a Learned Man, though long since, That if A●●●v●stus, Civilis, and those old famous men of Germany, should revive in their Country again, and look up to Heaven beholding the Constellations of the Bears and other Stars, they might probably acknowledge that these were the same Stars which they were wont to behold; but if they should look downward, and well view the face of all things, they would imagine themselves to be in a new world, and never acknowledge this to have been their Country.   

A JOURNEY FROM COLEN IN GERMANY TO LONDON.  
DUring the Treaty of Peace at Colen in the year 1673. between the United States of the Netherlands, the King of Great Britain, and the French King; many English Gentlemen having accompanied their Excellencies the Lords Ambassadors and Plenipotentiaries in their Journey, had a desire also to view some of the Neighbouring Territories, and to divertise themselves during the heat of the Summer, at the Spaa, the Baths of Aken, and other places. Having therefore, in order to our Journey, obtained a Passport for our Safety from Count Blondel, one of the Spanish Plenipotentiaries, and from their Excellency's Sir Joseph Williamson, and Sir Leoline Jenkins; we left Coln on Monday the Fourth of July, and upon the Road overtook my Lord of Peterborough, who had been at Dusseldorp, at the Duke of Newburg's Court, and went afterwards into Italy to Modena, and brought over her Highness the present Duchess of York. We dined at a small walled Town, called Berckem, which some think to be a name corrupted from Tiberiacum, where we stayed a great part of the Afternoon, to accommodate an unlucky Accident which happened: A Servant of one of the English Gentlemen having casually shot a Horse, which belonged to a Commander under the Duke of Newburg, lying at that time with a party of Horse at this Town, so that we traveled in the Evening through the Woods, and came late to a place called Steinstrasse, and the next day morning we went to Juliers.  
Gulick, or Juliers, is a small Town by the River Roer, but very ancient, and called by the Romans, Juliacum, conceived to have been founded by Julius Caesar; the Seat sometimes of the Dukes of Gulick, before the uniting hereof with Cleve; and since the dissolution of that Estate, possessed by the United Provinces; and then again by the Spaniards; but at present in the hands of the Duke of Newburg. It being agreed at the conclusion of Peace between the Spaniards and the Hollanders, That the Marquis of Brandenburg should have Marck and Cleve, and the Duke of Newburg, Gulick and Berg. This is a handsome well fortified Town, the Streets straight, and the Houses of Brick. The Citadel consists of four Bastions, of a regular Fortification; within which is the Prince's Palace. The Piazza in the Town is handsome; and the whole considerable for its beauty and strength.  
July the 5th. we came to Aken, or Aquisgranum, sive Leagues distant from Gulick; the French call it Aix la Chapelle, from a Chapel in the great Church, much visited by Pilgrims from many parts; and famous for the great number of Relics preserved therein. When the Romans made war upon the Germans, they possessed themselves of divers places between the Rhine and Maes. And Granus, a noble Roman, being sent into these parts of Gallia Belgica, about the year of our Lord Fifty three, discovered among the Woods and Hills these hot Springs, which to this day are so much celebrated in many parts of Europe; who afterwards made use of them, and adorned them after the manner of the Roman Baths, and built a noble Habitation near them; part of which the Inhabitants would have still to be standing, retaining the name of Turris Grani, an old Tower at the East-end of the Townhouse; a noble Antiquity: But the manner of its building gives suspicion it cannot be so old. Hence these Thermae from their Discoverer have been named Aquae Graniae, and came to be frequented; and the Town of Aquisgrane built and flourished, till Attila, the King of the Huns, or Hungarians, destroyed it.  
About four hundred years after, Charles the Great riding out a hunting in these parts, as he passed through the Woods, his Horses Foot struck into one of these Hot-springs; near which he also took notice of the Ruins of ancient Palaces and Buildings long before forsaken; and being still more and more delighted with the pleasant Situation of the place, and conveniency of these hot Rivulets, he renewed and adorned the Baths, built his Royal Palace near them: and appointed that the King of the Romans should be crowned with an Iron Crown here as with a Silver one at Milan, and a Gold one at Rome. He also built a noble Collegiate Church, dedicated to the blessed Virgin, in the presence of many Princes and Bishops, in the year 804, and endowed it with Revenues for the maintenance of Canons, who lived together in a College at first, but at present separately in the manner of prebend's. He built also the old or inward Wall of the City, so that it flourished till the year 882. at which time it was again ruined by the Fury of the Normans, and the Emperor's Palace burnt to the ground. This City, besides these Devastations from the Eruptions of the Huns and Normans, hath been divers times since destroyed by Fire; as in the year 1146. which loss it overcame in such manner, that Twenty six years after, it recovered not only its former greatness, but was so much increased, that the large outward Wall was built by the command of the Emperor Frederick the First.  
In the year 1224. happened another great Fire, in which, not only the Buildings, but many of the Inhabitants perished. And the Roof of the Church was burnt in another Fire 1236. And now of late, for it is not long since it hath recovered its losses by the Fire in the year 1656. when twenty Churches and Chapels, and about five thousand private Houses were destroyed.  
The Townhouse, or Senate-house, was built 1353. being all of Freestone, handsomely adorned with the Statues of the Emperors. The first and second Story of this Building is divided into Chambers; but the highest is all one entire Room or Hall, 162 Foot long, and 60 Foot broad. It is well painted in divers parts by Amisaga: Two Pieces of whose drawing are much esteemed here; one of the Resurrection, and another of Charles the Great, giving the Charter to the City of Aken. Here the Emperors, at the time of their Coronation, used to keep their Feasts, together with the Electours and other Princes. The Roof is supported by four Pillars; through the middle of which, the smoke of all the Chimneys of this Building, is by a handsome contrivance conveyed away.  
Over against this House, in the middle of the Piazza, is a Fountain, considerable both for largeness and neat structure, contrived by a great Artist, Gerard Coris: where four Springs perpetually empty themselves from above into a large Basin of Copper, of thirty Foot Diameter; from whence again it descends by six Pipes into a Cistern of Stone, handsomely engraved, and passeth to many other Fountains in the Town. On the top of this Fountain stands a large Statue of Charles the Great, Patron of this City, made of brass, and gilded over. He is in Armour, and looketh towards Germany. About the edges of the great brass Bason is this Inscription:  
Hic aquis per Granum Principem quendam Romanum, Neronis & Agrippae fratrem inventis, calidorum fontium Thermae à Principio constructae. Postea verò per D. Carolum Magnum Imp. constituto ut locus hic fit caput & regni sedes trans Alps, renovatae sunt: quibus Thermis hic gelidus fons influxit olim quem nunc demum hoc aeneo vase illustravit S. P. Q. Aquisgranensis, Anno Domini 1620.  
The Church of our Lady, built by Charles the Great, is of an odd Figure. At the West-end is a Steeple adorned with divers Pyramids; and on the top a large Globe and Cross. From hence, higher much than the Church, passeth a Gallery, supported by a large Arch to a Cupola near the middle of the Church. At the East-end is also a small Turret or Lantern. The inside of the whole is adorned with Marble Pillars of divers sorts, with Pillars of brass, gilded Statues, brass Doors and Partitions, and much Mosaic work.  
In the middle of the Church, where Charles the Great was buried, hangeth a very large Crown, given to this Church by the Emperor Frederick the First. This Crown is made of silver and brass gilt, adorned with sixteen little Towers, and eight and forty Statues of silver, of about a Foot high, and thirty two which are lesser. Between these stand eight and forty Candlesticks to receive the Lights burnt here upon Festivals.  
Of these large Crowns I have seen at Colen, and other parts; and it hath been an ancient Ornament in Churches. The Greeks have a Crown, or large Circle much like this, in the middle of most of their best Churches; on which they hang many Ostrich Eggs, and the Pictures of the Apostles and Saints. The Turks do likewise imitate it in their Mosques, but instead of Pictures place Lamps.  
Frederick the First took up the Body of Charles the Great out of its Sepulchre in the middle of the Church, and afterwards buried it again; partly in a silver Coffin under the Altar of the Choir, and partly near the Wall of the old Building, covering it with the same Tombstone, as before; which is here reported to have been first taken from the Tomb of Julius Caesar. It is of white Marble, and hath the Figure of Proserpina upon it. Out of this Tomb of Charles the Great, were taken up a great number of Relics and considerable Rarities, which he had got together in his life time; some of them given him by Aaron King of Persia, by the Patriarch of Constantinople, and others; divers of which are still preserved here: and these following we had the opportunity to see. Some of the blessed Virgin's hair. One ring or link of the Chain with which St. Peter was chained in Prison. The Head of Charles the Great. The bones of his Arm. His Sword which the Emperors wear at the time of their Coronation. The Picture of the Virgin Mary, with our Saviour in her Arms, embossed upon a Jaspis, done by St. Luke, hanged about the Neck of Charles the Great, and so found in his Tomb. A Noble Manuscript of the Gospels found in the same Tomb. Charles the Great's Horn which he used when he went a hunting. His Crucifix made out of the wood of the Cross. Our Saviour's Girdle of Leather, with the Seal of Constantine the Great at each end. A piece of the true Manna. Some of the Bones and Blood of St. Stephen, richly enchased, upon which the Emperors are sworn at their Inauguration. A piece of one of the Nails of the Cross. An Agnus Dei sent from the Pope to Charles the Great; and many other Relics. Here is also the Tomb of the Emperor Otho the Third, in black Marble, who in the year 1000, first constituted the Electors of Germany.  
Near to this City are many sorts of Minerals found; as Led over, the Sulphur, and Vitriol-stone, Iron, Coal, and Cadmia, or Lapis Calaminaris: With this latter we saw them make Brass, or multiply Copper, in this manner. They take calcined Cadmia, or Calmey, as they call it, Copper from Sweden, and the melted dross of both; to twenty eight pounds of Copper they put an hundred pound of Calmey: They put first into very large Crucibles, some old pieces of brass and slacken, or the dross, and afterwards the Calmey and Copper, and let them stand in the Furnace twelve hours; after which, they put eight Crucibles full into one, and let what will run over, the best sinking always to the bottom; and then cast it into a Frame made of stone, bordered with bars of Iron; and so run it into brass Plates, which are afterwards cut in pieces with large Cissars.  
The hot Baths are very much frequented at present. Within the inward Walls are three convenient ones: The Emperor's Bath, the Little Bath, and the Bath of S. Quirinus. The Emperor's Bath is in the same place, and fed with the same Springs with that in which formerly Charles the Great took so much delight, that he frequently used to swim therein; in which Exercise few were more expert than himself; and spent the latter end of his days here, and would often invite to the Bath, not only his Sons, but his Nobles, his Friend and Guards; so as it was customary to  a hundred together in those days. But now they are divided into lesser Partitions. The Emperor's Bath having five Bathing Rooms; and the Little Bath which cometh out of it three. These are reckoned to be Nitro-Sulphureus; and arise so hot, that they let them cool twelve hours before they use them. From under a great round Stone which covered a Well, in which there were some of these Hot Springs, I saw Brimstone, hard, above an inch thick, and Saltpetre, and a petrified Substance finely variegated, taken out.  
Besides these, near unto the inward Wall of the City, there are Baths which are not so hot as the former, esteemed to be Sulphureo-nitrous: The smell of them is somewhat offensive, and the water in the Cisterns not transparent. The first is the Bath of St. Cornelius, which hath two Receptacles. The second, the Rose Bath, so called from Mr. Rose, a Citizen of Aken, who built it. The third, Compus Badt, or the Poor man's Bath. Of this sort of warm Water there is also a Fountain, much resorted to, and drank of every morning in the Summer for many Chronical Diseases. About a Furlong out of the South-gate of Aken, is a Village called Porcetum, or Borset, from the great number of wild Hogs, which formerly frequented that place; in which are many Hot Springs upon both sides of a little Rivulet, and let into Houses, where they are distributed into several Baths of Stone. There are fourteen of these Houses, and twenty eight Baths; the Baths holding ordinarily about fifty Tuns of Water, each of them: the Water is clear and pleasant, without any offensive smell; excessive hot when it cometh first out of the Ground, hotter than the hottest of Aken, and is left to cool about eighteen hours before they use it. They use also an Instrument of Wood, pierced with many holes, to help to cool them sooner, or to stir the Water when any one goeth in, whereby he is not so sensible of the heat. There are many cold Springs rise near these hot ones, whereby they might be tempered; and surely the quantity of the hot Water being so great, no place might be made more delightful, nor no Baths more noble. The Turks in our times, do most of any Nation beautify their Baths, and render them serviceable to their health and pleasure.  
In Austria at Baden, the Sawer Bath is built after the Turkish manner, with a Cupola over it: and if any one hereafter shall build or beautify these, they will yield to very few in Europe. At present most of them are of a square Figure, of about five or six yards over; and the Houses in which they are, very near one another. The first House hath the name of the Lady's Bath; the second is the Snake; the third and fourth the Sword; the fifth the Golden Mill; the sixth the Fool; the seventh the Cock; the eighth the Great Bath; the ninth the Fountain; the tenth the Crab; the eleventh the World Inverted; the twelfth the Glass; the thirteenth the Angel; and the fourteenth the Rose. There is also another in the open Air, called the Poor man's Bath. In the Street is a Well or Fountain of these Hot-springs, of as great a heat as any I have seen; perpetually boiling or bubbling. But of all these Baths Dr. Blondel and Dr. Didier have written so particularly, as I need not to add any thing more, and particularly of their Uses.  
Within two Leagues of Aken, in the Country of Limbourg, is a Mine of Lapis Calaminaris, which we went to see, having a Corporal and eight Musquetiers for our Security to pass the Wood This Mine heath over against the Castle of Einenberg. As soon as I had delivered a Letter to Mr. John Frank, controller of the Mine for his Catholic Majesty, he went along with us, to show us the manner how the Cadmia groweth in the Earth, and other Curiosities. This Mine having been wrought Three hundred years, and being one of the most remarkable of that kind, it may not be impertinent to set down some particulars concerning it. It is about eighteen or nineteen Fathoms deep, lying all open like a Chalk Mine, of an Oval Figure; they dig at present in several places, and the best Calmey lieth between the Rocks, in the deepest part of the Mine: They have now found an excellent Veyn so placed, of eleven or twelve Foot thick, which they dig out with Pickaxes, with some difficulty, by reason that the Lapis Calaminaris is so very hard. The colour of this Stone is of a dark yellow and red, and hath Veins of natural Brimstone mixed thinly in it. The Veins of the Lapis Calaminaris being so large, they follow them not only in one place, but dig over one another's heads, and frame their work into the shape of large Stayrs, and one throws up what another digs, and so upward till they lad the Carts with it. Some of the Cadmia is blackish and dark brown; and there are Fluores between the Cavities of the Stone handsomely figured, but most of a blackish colour. The works about the Mine the most remarkable, are these: 1. An Overshot-wheel in the Earth, which moves the Pumps to pump out the water; and this not placed in the Mine, but on one side of it, and a passage cut out of the Mine to the bottom of it, by which the Mine is drained; and another passage or cuniculus, out of the place where the wheel is turned, which lets out the water which turns the wheel, and also the water which cometh out of the Mine into the Neighbouring Valley. 2. The washing of the Ore or Stone, which they perform, as at other works, by letting the water over it, and stirring it; and this they do wheresoever they begin to work near the Superficies of the Earth, for there the Calmey is less, and more mixed with Clay and Earth: but the most remarkable work is the calcining of the Ore (for all our Lapis Calaminaris of the Shops is the calcined Calmey) and it is worth the seeing; for they place Faggots in a handsome order first, and cover a large round Area with them, of about Forty or Fifty yard's Diameter, upon which they place Charcoal in as good an order, till all be covered and filled up a yard from the ground; then they place ranks of the largest Stones of Calmey, and after them smaller, till they have laid all on; and then by setting fire to the bottom, the fire comes to each stone, and all is handsomely calcined. From hence we went to Limburg, meeting with divers Soldiers upon the Road, who desired money of us, but did not attempt any thing against us, we being many of us together in Company.  
Limburg is seated upon a high Rock, which overlooks all the Country, and a little River runneth almost round it at the bottom. The Avenue to the Town on the North-side is difficult all along upon the edge of the Rock; and the Gate of the Town, over which is the governor's House, spreads itself from one side of the Rock to the other, and locketh up the passage. Here we show our Passports from the Spanish Plenipotentiaries; and in the Afternoon had a pleasant Journey to the Spaa. In the way we saw where the French Army had passed the Country towards Metz, having lain about a Fortnight at Vichet, after the taking of Maestreicht.  
Spà is a neat Villedge in the Forest of Ardenna, seated in a bottom, encompassed on all sides with Hills, and on the North with steep Mountains. So that it happening to rain while we were there, the place was, in some hours time, filled with water, the Hay washed out of the Meadows, the falls in the River made even, and Pohunt, one of the Mineral Fountains, was drowned. There was not much Company when we were there, although it were in the hottest time of the year, which is most seasonable for drinking the waters; by reason of the wars, and the danger of coming through the Country to them. But in Spà itself all people are free from danger, all the Neighbouring Princes protecting it, and would count it very dishonourable to disturb a place, which by the virtue of its Mineral Springs, is so beneficial to Mankind. These Waters are not only drunk upon the place, but are also sealed up in Bottles, and sent into many parts of Europe. And Mr. Coquelet, at whose House we lodged, told me that he sent it as far as Saragossa in Spain: and that he had at that time Thirty thousand Bottles empty, and waited for a good season to fill them, which is the hottest, driest time of the Summer, and the hardest Frost in Winter; at which times the water is strongest, sparkling, and brisk, The chiefest of these Mineral Fountains are these, Geronster, Saviniere, Tonnelet, and Pohunt.  
Geronster is in the middle of a thick Wood, about an English mile and a half Southward of the Spà; it is the strongest of any, and the best adorned, being built up with stone, and a Pavilion over it, supported with four handsome stone Pillars. There is a green place cleared in the Wood near to it, and a little House for the Patients to warm themselves in early, in the morning, or in cold weather. The Arms of Sr Conrade Bourgsdorff, who adorned this Fountain, are placed over, on two sides; and on the other two this Inscription in French and High-dutch, in a handsome Oval.  
Le Reverendissime & Excellentissime Sr Sr Conrade Bourgsdorff, Grand Chamberlan, & premier Conseiller d'Estat, Colonel & Gouverneur General de tous les Forts & Forteresses du Serenissime Electeur de Brandebourg dans son Estate Electoral, Grand Prevost des Eglises Cathedrales d'Halberstadt & Brandebourg, Chevalier de l'Ordre de St. Jean, & Commandeur du Baillage de Lagow, de gros Machenau, Golbeck, Bouckow, Oberstorff, etc. etc. etc.  
This Fountain smelleth very strong of Brimstone, and causeth vomiting in a great many, yet passeth chief by Urine, as they do all; and strikes a purple with Nutgalls more inclining to red, than the waters of Tunbridge. The Sediment is of a light blew in the Fountain, but of a dark dirty red every where else. Not far from this is another large Spring in the Wood much like it, but not as yet built and beautified.  
Saviniere is another Fountain, almost as far from the Spà Eastward, and built after the manner of a Tower: the Acidulae are not so strong as the former. There is another Fountain hard by this, almost the same, held to be particularly good for the Stone and Gravel.  
The third is Tonnelet, arising in the Meadow, and built up with stone: But being there are no Trees nor Shades about it, it is not so delightful as the others. And Henricus ab Heers in his Spadacrene, saith that this is more nitrous than the rest, and causeth such a coldness in the mouth and stomach, that few can drink of it.  
The fourth is Pohunt, in the middle of the Town, from whence most of the water is drawn which is sent abroad, if no particular one be sent for. This was beautified with handsome Stonework, by the Bishop of Liege, to whom this place belongeth, and this Inscription set over it, Sanitati Sacrum. It is also called the Fountain of St. Remaclus, to whom it was dedicated; and these Verses are likewise engraven upon it:  

Obstructum reserat, durum terit, humida siccat  
Debile fortificat, si tamen arte bibis.   
i e.  

This opens all Obstructions,  
And wears away hard tumors;  
This strengtheneth much the weaker parts,  
And dries up cold moist Humours.   
Being at the Spà, we visited Franchimont one Afternoon, passing through a thick Wood, there is an old Castle, and good Brimstone and Vitriol-works, the same Stone affording both; and I presume may also make the Spa-water under ground, or at least be a principal Ingredient in it. We saw the manner here how they melted, and cast their Brimstone first into great Pails, the florid and clear parts remaining at the top and middle, the thick and more obscure subsiding and adhering to the bottom and sides, and is that which is sold for Sulphur Vivum. We saw also the manner of casting the Brimstone into Rolls, or Magdaleons: And near unto this place a smoking, burning, little Hill, which is thus caused: They throw out the  Pyrites, out of which Brimstone hath been distilled, and the Vitriol drawn out by infusion, upon this Hill, which consists all of the same matter, which ferments in time, grows hot, smokes, and burns perpetually, and withal, drinks in a new Vitriol into its self.  
From the Spà we crossed over to Frapont, a Village seated upon the pleasant River Uta, or Ourte, where we took Boat and went down a rapid Stream, yet one of the pleasantest I ever saw, winding and turning between so many green Hills, in part of the Forest of Arduenna. We descended afterwards thirty or forty small Falls in a long Boat made on purpose. The Oar or Paddle being only a square piece of Board fixed to the end of a Pole, the Pole standing perpendicularly in the middle of it. The delightful River Vesa, or the Wesdret, soon met us, and joining together, we fell down with them into the Maes near Liege. Upon the Banks of these Rivers all the Arms, Guns, and other Instruments are made, for which the Country of Liege is remarkable.  
Liege, Luick, Leodium, or Augusta Eburonum; Learned Men think this City to be seated near that Valley, wherein two Legions of Julius Caesar, under Sabinus and Cotta, were destroyed by Ambiorix, chief Commander of the Eburones. It is seated upon the River Mosa, which entering with two Streams, makes some pretty Islands. Three other small Rivers arising in the Forest of Ardenna, are also here received into the Maes, whereby they have plenty of Fish and other Conveniencies. The City is very populous, and so it hath been in former Ages, when as Charles Duke of Purgunay, sacked it, and destroyed an hundred thousand of the people.  
It aboundeth with fair Churches, stately Convents, and Religious Foundations, richly endowed, so that it hath been called the Paradise of Priests, and is in that kind the most notable in all these parts. The Palace of the Bishop is a noble Fabric, built by Cardinal Erardus, Bishop of Liege. The Cathedral beareth the Name of St. Lambert, who being Bishop of Maestreicht was murdered by Dodo and others, about the year 622. The See was afterwards translated unto Liege by Hubertus, as it had been formerly from Tongres to Maestreicht, and the Body of St. Lambert removed unto this Church, which is at present very noble, being built of a reddish Stone, very much carved without, and handsomely adorned within. Between the Choir and Sacristy, is this Inscription in very large Letters:  
D. O. M.  
Intemeratae Virgini Mariae, Sancto Lamberto, Ecclesiae & Patriae Divis Tutelaribus, Maximilianus Henricus utriusque Bavariae Dux, Archiepiscopus & Elector Coloniensis, Episcopus & Princeps Leodiensis, Ernesti & Ferdinandi Bavariae Ducum, Episcoporum & Principum Leodiensium Nepos & Successor in sui & Praedecessorum memoriam Ponebat. MDCLVIII.  
The Canons hereof are of great riches and power, and have the Election of the Bishop and Prince, who hath also had the Titles of Duke of Bovillon, Marquis of Franchimont, and Count of Lootz and Hasbania. In the Coin of Maximilian, the present Elector of Colen and Bishop of Liege, I find this Inscription:  
Maximilianus Henricus Dei gratiâ Archiepiscopus Coloniensis, Episcopus & Princeps Leodiensis, Supremus Bullonensis Dux.  
Speutus the Bishop of Liege, bought the Principality of Liege of Godfrey of Bovillon, when he went to the Holy Land: And in the Treaty of Cambray, 1559. the possession of Bovillon, and precedency of Title, was granted to the Bishop of Liege, although at this time also the Houses of La Tour and Mark do bear the same.  
Of the Parish Churches that of St. John, and of St. Servasius are fair. Of the Abbeys that of St. Jacob within the Town, and of St. Laurence, built by Bishop Raginardus upon an Hill out of the Town, are noble. There is also a College of English Jesuits, well-seated upon a Hill, where the Garden is handsome, and the Dial's made by Franciscus Linus, are worth the seeing: And an English Nunnery handsomely built. In the Church of the Gulielmites, out of the Town, lieth the Body of our famous Countryman Sir John Mandeville, who, after he had traveled through so many parts, took an affection unto this place, and here passed the remainder of his life, and whose Epitaph, and some Rarities of his, are still to be seen.  
Bishop Notger, who was consecrated by St. Gereon, Archbishop of Colen, and died in the year 1007. built the walls of this City, and being Tutor to Otho the third, he found means very much to beautify it, to repair and build divers Churches, and endow them with rich Revenues, and let the River Maes into the Town, which before ran upon one side of it.  
As their Churches are fair and numerous, so are their Bells and Chimes remarkable. In the Cathedral of St. Lambert there are eight large Bells, and twelve lesser; and there is one so great, as it is said to require Twenty four men to ring it. In the Church of St. Paul the Bells and Chimes are considerable; as also at St. Laurence and the crossed Friars. It is also an University, and was so famous in former Ages, that they still take notice that at one time there have been Nine Sons of Kings, Twenty four Dukes Sons, Twenty nine of Counts, besides many of great Barons Students therein.  
Their Speech here, as also at Spa, is called Roman, and is a kind of old French, or Dialect of that Language, a great part of which is made up of Latin, or Roman words: and they call the Neighbouring Language of the Dutch, Tuiscon. But many speak very good French. They have some Vineyards affording a small Wine. The Hills about furnish them with Quarries of good Stone, and of several kinds. They have also divers Mines and Minerals, and great quantity of Pit-coal for Fire, in some places fetched deep out of the Earth, in others nearer the Surface: and in one place I saw them beginning to dig where they immediately found Coal. Their Pumps and Engines to draw out the water, are very considerable at these Mines; in some places moved by Wheels, at above a Furlongs distance, to which they are continued by strong Wood-work, which moves backwards and forwards continually.  
The Citadel standeth upon a Hill, and is of great Strength; It was built to keep the City of Liege under Subjection. For 1649. there being some disturbances in the City, Ferdinand, the Elector of Colen, offering to come into the Town to appease it, was opposed by the Consul, Jacobus Hennet, who was soon after surprised and beheaded, together with Bartholomaeus Rolandus; the Consul having sworn the Elector should never come in whilst he were alive. And the Citadel soon after was ordered to be built. The Bridges are handsome: that over the great Stream of the Maes is very broad and fair, and hath large Arches. From hence we could read the Elector's name upon the Citadel, Maximilianus, although it were at a very great distance, the Letters were so large.  
From Liege we had a pleasant passage down the Water to Maestreicht, passing by Argentau, a Castle seated upon a high Rock on the right side of the River, belonging then to the King of Spain, afterwards by Vichet in the half way, and then by Navagne, a strong Fort in the Maes, which commands the River, and at that time did the Spaniard service; then by pleasant Rocks on our left hand, wherein many Cuts and Passages have been digged, till we came in sight of Maestreicht.  
This Town having been a little before taken from the United States by a sharp Siege, was full of French, and had a Garrison in it of about Ten thousand men; and in the Marketplace stood about Two hundred large Field-pieces. We saw the places where they had their Batteries and their Mines, and the Halfmoon which the Duke of Monmouth took: the Outworks were very numerous, and many of them undermined. Colonel Storff showed us a handsome Draught of all the Works, Approaches and Manner of taking of the Town.  
About a quarter of a Mile out of the Town we went into the great Quarry of Stone, which is one of the noblest sure in the World. Between Padua and Vicenza I had formerly seen the famous Cave of Custoza, or Cubola, said to be above Five hundred Fathoms in breadth, and Seven hundred in length, but this doth far surpass it: the Roof is very high and stately in most places, the Pillars not to be numbered, all very large; we passed two miles under ground amongst them: No Labyrinth can be contrived more intricate, and yet all parts are uniform. The Floor all in a level, and the Roof in most places of the same height, and so much hath that uniform rule, which I suppose was set to those who first digged, and so hath successively been observed, added to the beauty of this place, that there is scarce any thing more noble. It put me in mind of the hundred Chambers of Nero, which he caused to be made under Ground in the Rocks at Baiae. And the Water which we met with in one place, made me think of Nero's admirable Fishpond, built in the like manner within the Earth. We came out again near to a Convent upon the Banks of the River, and returned by water to Maestreicht.  
The next day we parted Company. Mr. Newton, Mr. Ettrick, Mr. Grove, Mr. Carlton, and Mr. Newcomb went for Aken and Colen; Mr. Bates and Mr. Daston went up the River again to Liege, at which place, staying a day or two to find a convenience to pass to Brussels, we were nobly entertained at a Dinner with Venison, Wild-boar, and other Dishes, by that worthy Person and Learned Mathematician Franciscus Slusius, one of the great Canons of Liege, who also continued his high Civilities to us to the last Minute we stayed in Town.  
Leaving Liege we soon came in sight of Tongres, or Tungrorum oppidum, the most ancient place in all these Countries. Ortelius would have it to be called of old Atuatuca: It was a strong hold before the coming of Julius Caesar into Gaul, and was afterwards made a Roman Station, and in process of time became so great, that Attila the Hun destroyed an hundred Churches in it, it being at that time a Bishops See, which in the year 498 St. Servatius removed unto Maestreicht. Many old Coins and Antiquities are still found here; and part of an old Chapel, said to be built by St. Maternus, Disciple to St. Peter, is still remaining. When the King of France made his great inroad into the Low Countries, 1672. he borrowed this Town of the Elector of Cologne, and then passed on to Maseick, where crossing the Country to the Rhine, by the sides of these great Rivers, Rhine and Maes, he made that notable Incursion, and quitted not Tongres till he had taken Maestreicht the year following. We dined this day at Borchloe, and lodged at St. Trurn, or St. Truden, a handsome little Town, so called from a Church and Abbey herein dedicated to that Saint.  
The next day we dined at Tienen, or Tilmont, on the little River Geet, once one of the chief Towns in Brabant, but long since decayed. In these Plain Countries, in many places we saw small Hills, or Sepulchral Eminences of the Ground: And near unto the Walls of Yienen, are three very remarkable ones, said to be the Tombs of great Commanders. In the Evening we came to Louvain.  
Louvain is the chief City of that quarter of Brabant, which comprehendeth Arschot, Halen, and Judoigne; an ancient and large City, pleasantly seated upon the River Deal; it is of great Circuit, and the compass of the wall accounted above four miles about: but there are many void Spaces, Hills, Fields, and Gardens within it, which makes it very pleasant and delightful. There are herein divers good Buildings, Convents, and Churches: the chief whereof is the stately Church of St. Peter, the Convent of the Carthusians, the Hospital. The public Palace or Senate-house are also Noble.  
It is the great University of these parts, said to have had its beginning about 926. but endowed by John the Fourth, Duke of Brabant, and confirmed by Pope Martin the Fifth, 1425. There are Forty three Colleges in it; whereof the four chief are Lilium, Falco, Castrum, Porcus. Goropius Becanus, a Learned Man, and Native of Brussels, affirmeth, That no University in Italy, France, Germany, or Spain, is to be compared unto it for its elegant and pleasant Situation. The University is under the Government of Rector, who is in great esteem and honour among them. This University hath produced many Learned Men: But neither the Buildings of the Colleges, nor their Endowments do equal those of our Universities, and the Situation thereof seems not to exceed that of Oxford.  
We traveled from hence to Brussels, being most part of the way in the sight of the very high Tower of the Church of St. Rombald at Machlin.  
Count Monterei was then Governor of the Low-Countries, and resided at Brussels, the ordinary Seat of the Governors of the Spanish Netherlands; which City he had taken care to fortify, and to make it more tenable, if it should be attempted by the French.  
From Brussels we passed to Antwerp, where we were handsomely treated by Mr. Wauters and Mr. Hartop, and having visited some of our Friends, the next day we passed the River Schelde, and took Coach in the morning, travelling through a fruitful, plain, flat Country, set with rows of Trees in most places, and arrived in the evening at Ghent.  
Gaunt, Gandavum, or Ghent, is esteemed to be the greatest City, not only of Flanders, but of all the Law-Countries, and challengeth a pace amongst the greatest in Europe; but at present it decreaseth and decays rather than increaseth. And if Charles the Fifth were now alive, he could not put Paris into his Gant, a greater Glove would not fit that City, which is so much increased since his time. In Ghent are many noble Convents, among which the Jesuits is one of the fairest: There is a Cloister also of English Nuns. The Cathedral is stately, and the Tower belonging to it being very high, gives a prospect of a pleasant and fruitful Country round about it. There are divers Piazza's, large and fair; in one of which stands a large gilded Statue of Charles the Fifth, Emperor and King of Spain, who was born in this City. The whole Town is generally well-built, and the Streets are fair and clean. The Inhabitants hereof have been taken notice of to be extremely given to Sedition, and for their sakes a great many other Cities in Europe are punished, and have in a manner totally lost their Liberties: For the Spaniards, to curb the Seditious humour of the People of Ghent, were put upon the Invention of building Citadels in Cities, whereby a few Soldiers are able to suppress any Commotion, or beat down the Town, so that here I saw the first Citadel that was built in Europe by Charles the Fifth: It is not large, and the Bastions little, and though of a Regular Figure, yet not so convenient as those of latter days, since that Art hath been improved.  
From Ghent we passed by water about Twenty English miles to Bruges, a very elegant large City, and formerly a place of very great Trade, being within three Leagues of the Sea; so that from the tops of their highest Buildings, the Ships under Sail are visible, and at the same time a Fleet of Ships, and a large Territory of a fruitful, pleasant Country, cometh under your eye. It is fortified with Works of Earth and deep Ditches. The Convents are numerous: The artificial Cuts of Water from this Town to all places, maketh it of easy access; and though it hath no Port, the Passage from hence to Ostend by water is short: And they are at present upon a Design of bringing Ships up to this City.  
Ostend is about Ten English miles from Bruges, seated upon the waves of the Germane Ocean, which wash it continually on one side: And they have now contrived it so, as to let the Sea in almost round the Town for a great space, whereby it is become much more strong and defensible than before. For when I looked upon it, and considered what it was when it was besieged by Archduke Albertus, and taken by Marquis Ambrose Spinola, 1604. with an honourable Surrender after three years' Siege, I cannot but ascribe very much unto their Supplies from England, and the obstinate Valour of the Defendants, especially the English under Sir Francis Vere. Sluys being in the hands of the States of the United Provinces, and Dunkirk under the French. The Spaniards possess no other Port in Flanders but this and Newport; and this being the most considerable, they are now making the Haven large, and are upon a considerable Work in order to the carrying of their Ships over into that Cut which goeth from Ostend to Bruges, out of their Harbour, by the means of a very great Lock or Receptacle of Water, which is to communicate with both; which, when it is finished, may be very advantageous to the Traffic. of the Spanish Netherlands. This Town stands very low, but the Streets are straight, large, and uniform  
From hence I went all along upon the Seashore to Newport, a handsome Town, with large fair Streets, but low built. There were then a great number of small Ships in the Harbour. This place is famous for the Battle of Newport, fought here by Albertus, and Count Maurice, wherein the Spanish Forces lost the day, and much of the honour of the Field was due unto the English under Sir Francis Vere; since which time, although there hath been much blood shed in these Quarters, yet there hath not been so considerable a Battle ever since, although the English had also the fortune to do great Service hereabout at a fight called the Battle of the Sandhils, when a part of the Army of French and English, which besieged Dunkirk, fought with the Spanish Forces by Newport, and overthrew them.  
From Newport we put to Sea, sailing out of the Harbour, and intending for England; but the wind being very high and contrary, after having been at Sea all the night, and had leisure to take notice of the great number of Sands upon that Coast, in the morning we put into Mardike, where at present there is only a Fort of Wood just above the High-water mark, with some few Guns mounted. The other Fort, more into the Land, being demolished.  
Dunkirk is much increased of late, and the King of France hath not spared money to render it considerably strong. He hath very near finished a noble Citadel, begun by the English while this Town was in their possession, which hath the Sea on one side of it, the Haven on another, and the Sandhills towards the Land, which when the wind is at South-west, doth somewhat annoy it: To prevent which, the French have made divers Cuts and Channels through the Sands, into which the Sea entering, doth moisten and fix the Sand, so as they are not so apt to fly. And every Bastion is sprucely kept and covered within with green Turf. Beyond the old Wall of the Town, there are now great Works drawn, which encompass so large a space of Ground, that the Town is made bigger by half: And in this part stands the English Nunnery, and many handsome Buildings. The new Fortifications are very large; and the Bastion towards the North the most stately, upon which the King of France entertained the Duke of Monmouth. The Port is large, and capable of receiving a great number of Ships, but at low water it is almost dry; and there are so many Sands before it, that at that time the Sea comes not in any depth within a mile of it.  
From Dunkirk we traveled by Land to Gravelling, where the Works are of Earth, large and high, the Church stately, the Streets broad, but the Houses low, and at present not populous.  
From Gravelling I came to Calais, from whence setting Sail in the morning, we came to Dover, and the same day to London.  
FINIS.   

A Catalogue of some Books Printed for Benj-Tooke at the Ship in St. Paul's Churchyard.  

THe Works of the Most Reverend Father in God, John Bramhall, late L. Archbish. of Ardmagh. Fol.  
Several Chirurgical Treatises, by Richard Wiseman Sergeant Chirurgeon to his Majesty. Fol.  
Skinneri Etymologicon Linguae Anglicanae. Fol.  
Bishop Sanderson' s Sermons. Fol.  
Bentivolio and Urania, by N. Ingelo, D. D. Fol.  
Mr. Faringdon' s Sermons complete, Three Vol. Fol.  
Dr. Heylin on the Creed. Fol.  
Lord Bacon' s Advancement of Learning. Fol.  
Lightfoot. Horae Hebraicae in Johannem. Quarto.  
Dr. Brown ' s Travels in Hungaria, Servia, Bulgaria, Macedonia, Thessaly, Austria, Styria, Carinthia, Carniola, and Friuli, with Sculptures. Quarto.  
A Representation of the State of Christianity in England, and of its decay and danger from Sectaries as well as Papists.  
Langhornii Elenchus Antiquitatum Albionensium. Oct.  
Batei Elenchus Motuum Nuperorum in Anglia.  
Johannis Stern de Obstinatione Opus Posthumum. Praefixa sunt Prolegomena Apologetica. Octavo.  
Two Letters of Advice; 1. For susception of H. Orders. 2. For Studies Theological, especially such as are Rational. Oct.  
Some Considerations of present Concernment, how far the Romanists may be trusted by Princes of another Persuasion. 8.  
Two short Discourses against the Romanists. 1. An Account of the Fundamental Principle of Popery, and of the Insufficiency of the Proofs they have for it. 2. An Answer to Six Queries, 12. These four by Henry Dodwell M. A. sometimes Fellow of Trinity College near Dublin.