LETTERS Writ to a Friend, By the Learned and Judicious Sir Andrew Balfour, M. D CONTAINING Excellent Directions and Advices For Travelling through FRANCE and ITALY With many Curious and Judicious Remarks and Observations made by Himself, in His Voyages through these countries'.  
Published from the Author's Original M. S.  
EDINBURGH, Printed in the Year, M.DCC   

To the Most Illustrious, Most Potent, and Noble EARL, ALEXANDER Earl of Murray, Lord Down and Abernethy, etc.  
Sometime Lord High COMMISSIONER, And Principal SECRETARY of State For the Kingdom of Scotland.  
My Noble Lord!  
IN all Ages, discerning and serious Men, who knew best to allow and distinguish things and Persons, have made it their great Complaint, That the present Generation did degenerate from the former; And that the Generality of Men were too apt and ready to pursue bad Courses: And some thinking Persons now, are easily induced to believe, that, the Days we live in, the World is not much mended. This notwithstanding, no Time hath been known (how dissolute soever) wherein some worthy & virtuous Men have not appeared, who have studied to improve Natural and Moral Enduements, and to pursue Virtue, preferring that way to base Interest, and selfish Ends. And it is well known, that even at this Time, when many & great Duties are easily superseded, there are here and there some Persons who worthily act upon the Principles of Honour, Conscience, and Virtue, maugre all Discouragements. Among whom Your Lordship (even in your Solitude) moves and acts in a very high and conspicuous Sphere, to that Measure of lovely Virtue and Splendour, that Your Friends and Wellwishers admire, and your Enemies (if You have any) can find no matter of Censure. If there were many such in the Nation, it would be no hard matter to retrieve & bring in Vogue again, these adequat Qualities and Virtues, which often have rendered many of our Countrymen (endued therewith) famous and illustrious both at Home and Abroad. In the mean Time it is to be wished that each man would labour to reform Himself and his own Ways, conforming them to these excellent Rules. And that certainly at length would make and advance a laudable Reformation indeed. But it is to be feared, that this would rather prove an abortive Wish, than that it shall have its wished for Effect: albeit (to have it so with the World) it should be a part of our daily Prayers, and come in continually to Our Litany.  
My Lord!  
Whilst You are Enjoying Yourself, and are solaced with the Comfort of a good Conscience, in Your Retirement, making yourself an Example of Virtue, and a Pattern of Honour and Goodness to those who observe you and your Actions. I humbly address Your Lordship, not desiring to interrupt Your Repose, but to afford You a little divertisement for some of your vacant and Recreating Minute's: By Offering to Your Lordship's Perusal these following Sheets, and Begging Your Patronage thereto: And I judge I have little Reason to despair of your Favour and Acceptance, since Your Lordship was Pleased to show a more than Ordinary Affection and Kindness to the Author my Father. And therefore I hope this little Tract will give Your Lordship some Content; and for others I am bold to say, I hope well: for many Persons of great Honour and Judgement, have (since my Father the Author's Death) been solicitous to get written Copies from the Original, which was indeed perfected by My Father in his Own Time, without any Design to make it public. But my Father's M. S. with all his Books being committed to a certain Person he, without my Privity, gave out Copies to Knowing & Inquisitive Persons, as of late I came to understand, and now these Copies abounding abroad, and most (if not all) being defective or incorrect, (to Prevent my Father's being abused) I now send a True Copy abroad unto the World, and let it See the Light: And go it must under your Lordship's Patronage, for I am confident the Design will succeed the better, and the Book will be the more acceptable to these who Love and Desire the Knowledge of such curious Matters: Nor shall I diffide its Fate, being first welcome to Your Lordship, to whom I hereby address the same, most humbly and hearty, and not in course, ingyring upon a Patron, as the custom sometimes is.  
Thus, begging Your Lordships Pardon for my Presumption, I do entreat from your Lordship the Honour to be accounted,  
My Noble LORD, Your Lordship's most humble, Most Faithful, most Devoted, And Obedient Servant, M. BALFOURE.   

TO THE READER  
IT is needless to show the many advantages may be had from Travelling, since all are convinced of it; and the Wisest of Men in all Ages have thought this the best way to improve themselves: thus, as Homer, the Greek Master, shows us, Ulysses followed this Method.  
Qui Domitor Trojae multorum providus Vrbes,  
Et Mores hominum inspexit; latumque per aeqour  
Dum sibi dumsocijs reditum parat, aspera multa  
Pertulit.  
And such a one Homer drew his Son Telemachus, whose adventures have of late been Painted by an excellent Pen, with all the advantages, requisite for the education of a good Man and Excellent Prince. Indeed, the World is a Theatre, in which we may see not only the different productions of Nature, but also all the Arts & Mysteries of Government; and all the ways of improving Nature by Art; and every Climate affords new Scenes for improving Geography, Natural and Civil History, Medicine, Commerce, and all the Mechanic Arts.  
Medicine certainly is much improved this way, for thus Galen writes, he sailed to Lemnos, Cyprus and Palestina of Syria, on purpose to see foreign Plants, and rare Oars and Minerals.  
The following Letters give you some account, to this purpose, of these Countries in Europe viz. England, France and Italy, which for, Politeness & Civility, for Grandeur and Magnificence, & for Arts and Inventions, and the Public encouragements of them, far excelleth all the rest. The Author of them, Sir Andrew Balfour, Doctor of Medicine, spent some fifteen Years in his Travels, & Residence in these Countries; He was a Man of an Excellent Wit, and of a Ripe Judgement, and of a most taking behaviour; He had improven himself to the best advantage, with all the learning taught in the most famous Universities of these Countries, had acquired their Languages, and Conversed with the most famous Man then alive. The particular Curiosity He had to learn every thing that might enrich his mind with knowledge, was in his youngest Years favoured with the Example and Instruction of his eldest Brother, 30 Years elder than himself, the Famous Sir James Balfour, Lion King at Arms, who had a Curious Bibliotheck, had Collected in his Cabinet many Curious Products of Nature and pieces of Art, and took delight to cherish this early Curiosity of his youngest Brother: With this Disposition & proficiency in the Learning then taught in his Native Country, He begun his Travels, which, in so long a Tract of time he employed that way, came to Qualify him exceedingly for performing all that is recorded of him. 
‖ In the Memoria BALFOUR●A●A.   
When He wrote these Letters He had settled his abode at Edinburgh, where He Practised Physic with great Success, & deservedly gained the Reputation of the best Qualified Physician in the place, and accordingly was employed by these of the best Rank. About a Year or two after his settlement here He took the Resolution of erecting a public Garden for Plants, and a Cabinet of Curiosities: He had begun the last in his own Lodging▪ and was projecting how He might establish the other, when He became acquainted with that worthy Gentleman Patrick Murray, Baron of Livingstone, to whom these Letters (now published) were addressed. This Gentleman designed so much for the good & Honour of his Country, that I cannot but in this place do that Justice to his Memory to give the World some Character of him, having been well acquainted with him, & having had the happiness to make the Acquaintance, & begin the Friendship contracted betwixt him, and Sir Andrew Balfour, which produced these Letters.  
This Gentleman had a particular Genie inclining him to study Natural History, and all the ways and means, how to improve the Arts, most useful to his Country; He had studied the Mathemathicks, & delighted much in the practical part of them, & employed much of the Revenue of that plentiful Estate He had from his Ancestors, in purchasing Instruments, & Curious Books, which treated on these Subjects, He having Traveled over a great part of this Country, in searching after the Plants that grew wild up and down in it, & withal having read several writers on the Plants, he every Year sent for new Seeds of foreign Plants: He enclosed a considerable Parcel of Ground, in which He trained them up with great Skill; and before He 〈◊〉 to his Travels, He had of domestic and foreign Plants, growing in his Garden at Livingstone, above a Thousand: He was above thirty six Years of Age before He began his Travels, and had fitted himself by reading of Voyages, and such Books as might best inform him of what He was to inquire for, in foreign Countries, ye● He was so sensible of the great Advanta●●● 〈◊〉 that Learning Sir Andrew Balfour 〈◊〉 ●●●ster of, that He not only informed 〈…〉 him of the best Books, fitted 〈…〉 and the design He had to Learn all that might be for the improving of knowledge, & of the Arts useful to this Country, but likewise He obtained his promise to entertain a Correspondence with him whilst He was in foreign Countries, by Letters, upon all Occasions. These three make a Part of what Sir Andrew wrote. He had whilst He was abroad, bought up most of the writers extant upon Plants and other parts of natural History, and many relating to the culture of Plants; He had ●exactly learned all the Plants then kept in the King's Garden at Paris (the most complete that is in the World, either for the number or the Quality of the Plants) or in private Gardens there; and had traveled through a great part of France, when He was surprised with a Fever, that he contracted at Avignion, of which he died.  
He begun his Voyage the 2d. of September 1668, and died in August or September 1671. In these places of England and France He Traveled thorough, He gives a very particular Account, even of the Dimension of the Public Buildings, the Remarks, the distances of the places; He gives an Account of the Government of France, of the Peers there, & the Orders of Knighthood; He gives an account of the Remarkable Manufactories in France, & particularizes some of the Mines and Quarries of Marble, and has an Account of the Canale for the Communication betwixt the Mediterranean and the Ocean; He shows the Quality of the Wether, the Habits of the People in the Souths parts of France; He describes the Monuments of Eminent Men, & 〈◊〉 some of their Sepulchral inscriptions, and takes notice of the best Gardens and of the Citiners of the Curious where He Traveled▪ describing many particulars not to be ●et ●ith in the printed Voyages, and upon this Account his Voyage deserves very well to be made Public.  
As to these Letters of Sir Andrew Balfour now published, I shall leave the Judgement of them to the Learned, who may peruse them; yet this I must say, There are many particularities in them relating to Natural History, and the way of Safe and connient Travelling, not to be met with in the printed Accounts of these Countries, and I am persuaded they are of Excelleut use for these who study Natural History, and Physic, where they may be informed where Plants, & other Subjects of them, are to be found in their Native Places, and where they may see the Cabinets of the Curious.  
Others will be hereby instructed in the Manners, Orders, and Customs, of these People; They will find likeways many Curious Reflections, which are Pleasant to read, and may give rise to higher Considerations. They will see what Varieties foreign Countries of a different Soil & Temperature of Air, do afford; several of which may be brought here, and may be made useful to this Country.  
What Sir Andrew delivereth here, is what he observed, experienced, and handled himself, and none need question the Relations in any Circumstance; He was known to be a most candid and Ingenious Gentleman, He giveth his apprehension and Judgement of the Reasons & causes: which was always much valued by all which kneDw him; being a Gentleman of Excellent Wit, and Judgement: He did not expect that they should be printed, and in his life-time he would never hear of it; and such was his Modesty, he never shown them to any but his most intimate Friends, and could not be persuaded to give a Copy of them, but since his Death copies of them have passed from hand to hand, and all who have seen them are very well pleased; whereupon at the earnest entreaty of his Friends, his Son hath published them in the Style he found them written; his design was to render all easy & intelligible to his Friend he wrote them to; if the Phrase & Language seem in some places less ornate, & not so congruous as may be expected now, it is to be remembered, they were written thirty Years ago, when he had been Fifteen Years absent from his own Country, & had accustomed himself to speak foreign more Language, than to Study the Elegancy of his own Native Tongue; & this I think should excuse him at the hands of the Critics, He Studied more things than words, & yet, as all know, He expressed himself most handsomely upon all Occasions.  
It was fit this should be Represented: The rest is left to the impartial Reader, who will meet with so many Remarkable & useful things in the Letters, that there is no doubt of his kind Acceptance of them. If these meet with the encouragement hoped for, 'tis like, the Baron of Lovingstone his observations in his Travels, in our Language too, and a Voyage of another Countryman of ours, through France and Italy, written in a pure Style of Latin, may be published for the satisfaction of such as are Curious of Travels,  
Farewell.   

LETTER I.  
CONTAINING An Account of what is remarkable in and about London, etc. And in and about Paris, etc.  
Sir,  
I Cannot inform You of any thing considerable on this side London, except it please you, when you are got the length of Huntingdon, to turn six or seven miles out of the road to see Cambridge; which I do truly think worth the while, in regard it is one of the two famous Universities of England, where if it please you, You may take Notice of the number, structure, and order of the Colleges, etc. but particularly of the Libraries and Gardens; as also of the Booksellers Shops in the town-where possibly you may meet with something that you shall not meet with any where else in order to this it would be convenient to have some letter of recomendation or address to some member of the University whom you might be sure (upon this account) to find very ready to serve you; I am sorry that I cannot help you in this particular, having never been in this place myself; But I think if you address yourself to Mr. Ray (who wrote and published the Catalogue of plants growing about Cambridge) upon the score of seeing that place, and himself as a Person so deserving especially in the knowledge of plants, of which you are also a very great lover; I make no doubt you shall find him as ready to oblige you there, as you use to be to any Virtuoso here.  
At London I shall advise you to lodge in or about Convent-garden, as a place most commodious for your business. I thought it necessary to accompany you only with two leters of recommendation, the one to Dr. Morisone, whom I think the best Botanist in the world, and a most honest and obliging friend; By his means you will easily see all that is considerable of Plants about London, and purchase what seeds that place affords. The other is to Mr. Scott a Bookseller, dwelling in Little-Britain by whose means you may be furnished with any Book that may be be had in London; and I think as reasonably as elsewhere: notwithstanding you will ' do well to see other shops, as particularly Mr. Bees and Mr. Pulleyns', both of them in Little-Britain.  
As for the other beauties of the Court and City I need not say much, being you will easily be informed of them upon the place: I shall only hint at some of the most considerable,  
And first, at Whythall be pleased to take Notice of the banqueting-house; you will find it of a stately fabric, such as the late King designed to have all the Palace of; it was built by King James, the history of whose diefication you will find Painted on the roof within, by the noble artist Rubens, only you will find the Figures too big, occasioned by the Painter's misinformation concerning the Hight of the Room, which he was made believe to be greater. The King's privy Rooms are worth the seeing, because of their excellent Ornaments of Hang and Pictures.  
2 The Palace of Westminster, in which I find the great Hall only considerable for its great breadth and artificial roof.  
3. Henry VII. Chappel and the tombs in and near it.  
4. You will do well upon some Holiday (if any happen during your abode there) to see the King at Divine service, in regard of the extraordinary state used on such days, as also of the excellent Music; I would advise you likewise to see the King dine on some such day.  
5. The Tower, in which be curious to see the Mint Crown, Sceptre, & Treasury, the Magazine of ancient arms etc. and the new Arsenal built and furnished by the present King, The wild Beasts.  
6. Gresham-Colledge, where the Exchange is now kept; inquire there for Dr. Pope that by his means you may see a very fine collection of natural rarities kept in that College. He will likewise carry you to see the Royal society, if you so desire.  
7. The King and Duke's playhouses.  
8. The Inns of Court, especially the Temple, Lincoln's Inn, and Gray's Inn.  
9 The New Exchange, and not far from it, Sommerset-House.  
10. St. James's-House and Park.  
11. If you please to take a pair of Oars the length of Greenwich, you will see the King's new House that is a building there, and if you please to walk up to the Hill above it, You will have a prospect up and down the river, which the multitude of goodly ships, the pleasantness of of the Country about, and our Countryman John Barcly's curious Description and Commendation of it, render most famous.  
12. For the rest, I shall only put you in mind, that about London there are such places, as Wimbletone belonging now to the Earl of Bri●●o●, but lately to the Queen-Mother and in the time of the Rebellion possessed by Lambert; who embellished the Garden thereof with great variety of plants. Hampton-Court and Park belonging to the King's Majesty. I shall likewise put You in mind that Oxfoord is but fifty miles from London, and that it is one of the most famous Universities in the world, both for the number and structure of the Colleges and Halls, and for the multitude of ●●udents, and competency of their provision. The chief Colleges are Christ's Church, magdalen's, All-Souls, St. John's, &c. Balliol College was founded by a Scots King's father of that name, The Schools is a stately Fabric where there is kept a most magnificent Library for Number of Books beyond any that ever I saw: there is besides near Magdalen-Colledge a Physical Garden; when You resolve to go thither Dr. Moreson will recommend You to such persons as will be careful to show you every thing.  
From London to Paris the best way is to go by Dover and Calais, that you may return by Die● and Rye, except you make account to return by Flanders in which case I advise you rather to go by Rye and Deip, because Roven (which otherwise will not fall to be in your way) is a more considerable place and better worth the seeing, than any thing upon the way of Calais.  
For your accommodation from London to Rye, you may either take post, or inquire for the Rye Carrier at the King's Head in Southwark, he will furnish You saddle Horses for 12. sh. a man, and if You have any baggage he will carry it at an easy rate; by this way You will arrive at Rye in two days, where You may lodge at the Mermaid until You find an Opportunity of passage, for which if there be Passengers enough You must pay 10. sh. but if there be few passengers You will be obliged to pay more.  
At Deip be pleased to lodge A la Bastile, the master of the House hath a Son that speaks English, and they are all very civil people. You may see in the shops very many curiosities in that place, and particularly, Au Roy de la Chine; The Town is famous for working in Ivory, Horn, and Tortois-shell, for Combs, Boxes, dials, and a Thousand other conceits.  
From thence you must Hire Horse to Roven, the ordinary price is a Crown, if you have no company you will do well to take a guide by the Landlords Direction; you dine at a place called Tostes, the first House of the village which you come at is the best.  
At Roven lodge Au Bon Pasteur, the master is a Protestant, and speaks English▪ be pleased to take Notice in the Town, of  
1. The Bridge on the River, which is of wood, supported by boats, and rises and falls with the Tide.  
2. The great Church; if you will be at the pains to go to the Top of the Steeple you may ●●ave a very good prospect of the Town and Avenues, you may also see the biggest bell in the World called the St. George of Amboise.  
3. The Palace, where the Parliament Sits; the great Hall is commended for its breadth, being it is without pillars, but in my opinion it comes far short of Westminster-Hall at London.  
There is a little Village about half a League from the Town called Santeville, famous for Cream, if you please your landlord will find you a guide to conduct you thither. You may Herbarize by the way.  
You may take the messenger to Paris, as being the easiest way, you pay 13. or 14. Franks a man, for which You are to be furnished with horse, lodging and diet to Paris, as al●o to have Six pound weight of baggage allowed you, But if You have any more, You must pay for it beside; The last Meal which you make by the way is at Po●to●●, where it is usual after Dinner for every Gentleman in the company to give to the conductor a piece of 13. Solds.  
At Paris I shall advise you to lodge at Mr. Haes, They are very honest people, at least you may stay there until you find the way of accommodating yourself better; he lodges A. Fauxbourg St. german rue de la bouchery; There are so many worthy things to be seen in this place that I shall only name some of them, for fear of troubling you too much, and leave the rest to your own observation.  
1. See Luxemburgh palace & gardens; Monsieur Merchant will be a fit Person, because of his acquaintance there, to wait upon you.  
2. The King's garden, where be sure to make a strong friendship with the Gardener; and You may command what You will of Plants or Seeds.  
3. The King's Library, and especially there, the Books of Minature done by Monsieur Robert, which I look upon as the best curiosity of that kind in the World.  
4. The Garden of Tuilliaries.  
5. Monsieur Marchant's own Garden; He dwells, Rue du Roy de Sicily devant la nostre Dame d' Argent, deriere le petit St. Antoin; his Gard●n is hard by his house, and there You may see some curious Plants, not to be found elsewhere in France.  
6. The Jesuits College, where inquire for some Scots Father, and desire him to procure you a sight of the Bibliotheck, and Mathematical House; there you will see the 3. Systems of the World, according to the several Hypotheses of Copernicus, Tycho Brache, and Ptolomeus, represented in Motion.  
If You be desirous to learn Chymie, You may cause Monsieur Marchant address You to Monsieur Barlet; He lives au College de Cambray, and uses to teach Courses; It will cost you ten Crowns for the Course, and two Crowns for his Book; He demonstrates from two a clock in the Afternoon till five, and finisheth his course in three weeks. I think it might be worth your while, in regard you will hardly find the like Occasion any other where.  
I need not say any thing of the Booksellers, being they are obvious A la Rue St. Jaques; for new Books at the Palace; for French Books, as Romances, etc. A la Place de Sorbone; as also at the End of the new bridge about nostre Dame church, also at the postern Gate of the Palace and upon the Mont St. Hiller, for old Books of all Sorts.  
Remember to cause Monsr. Merchant show You a maker of Mathematical Instruments that lives dans l'Isle du Palais au Key qui est vis a vis la valle des Miseres, and inquire for the designing Instrument; about the same place also you may be provided of Microscops of all sorts; If You desire to have your own, or any other Picture done: inquire for Monsr. Ferdinand, Paintre sur la Fosse an Fauxbourgs St. German proche l' Academy de Monsr. du Plessis, but make your bargain before Hand.  
It will be worth your while to see some places about Paris, as particularly,  
1 Maisone, a very delicate House, belonging to the Precedent of Maisone, & standing upon the River of Saine, some 4. Leagues from Paris; From hence you must go two Leagues up the River, to  
2 St. German, A House belonging to the King; from thence four Leagues further a little off the River, to  
3 Versaile, A House begun by the late King, but finished by the present; It is a most delicate fine place, but (as I think) there will be a Necessity of procureing an Order from the Superintendent of the House (who ordinarily resides at court) to the Consperge of the House to show the same to you; From thence to  
4 Ruele, You have about two leagues: it is a pretty little House built by Cardinal Richlieu; The G●rdens are exceedingly pretty, and the Waterworks the best in France; From thence You may come to  
5 St. Clou, A House belonging to the present Duke of Orleans; From thence on your way to Paris (which is not above 3 Leagues) You pass through a wood called Bois de Bologne; in which there stands a House called Madrid, built by Francis I. after His Return from Spain where He had been Prisoner, to save his promise of going back to Spain once a year. In my time there was a manufactory for weaving of Silk Stockings kept there.  
Having performed this Journey in one or at the most two days, you may with your conveniency visit  
6 St. Denys, in the Abbey whereof there is a famous Treasury kept. Remember to take Nottice of Charles the Great's Crown, in which there is a Ruby of the Bigness of a Pigeon's Egg; A large Cup of oriental Aggat, which they count much of; One of the Nails that fixed our Saviour's Body to the Cross, sent to Charles the Great by Constantine V Emperor of Constantinople; One of the Potts, wherein our Saviour changed the water into wine at the Marriage of Cana in Galilee; The Pucel of Orleans Sword, wherewith she overcame the English; The Lantern that was carried before Judas, when He betrayed our Saviour; and a thousand other things of great Value. See the Tombs likewise: You will do well to go early in the Morning that you may have time to speak to the Religious Men, and take their Hour of conveniency for seeing of the Treasure; which being done, you will have time enough to return to Paris.  
7 I know nothing better worth your seeing about Paris, than the Aqueduct at Arcqueul about 2 leagues from the town, it was built by Mary of Medici's in the time of her Regency, for bringing the the water to her palace of Luxemborg. Besides the Aqueduct, you will also see there a very fine Grotto with fine walks and many pretty Jets of water; one afternoon suffice for this Journey.  
8. Fountainbleau, in which there are so many things considerable: not only in the House, furniture, and painting; but also in the Gardens, Walks, Fishponds, and water-works, that it will be less trouble for you to observe them by seeing, than by a long narration; I shall only tell you for the better improvement of your Journey thither that you will do well first to go to  
9 Esson a House seven leagues from Paris belonging to a private Gentleman, where you will see very fine water works and many other pretty conceits; from thence you have 3 leagues  
10. To Durance, a private House likewise, but to which there belongs very noble gardens and walks, with delicate Ponds and Jets of water. It will not be a miss to stay here all the night, being You will have 4 Leagues to Fontainbleau, a great part of which is through the Forest, and therefore better to be gone in the morning, when the day is before Your hand, than in the evening when night may surprise You.  
11. You may arrive so early in the morning at Fountainbleau that You may have time to see all before dinner, and thereafter return to Veau, a most stately house and gardens correspondent to it, built by Monsr. Fougues●, but since his disgrace it's fallen to the King: From hence you may return a short League off your way to lodge at Melun; The next morning You will have an easy Journey to Paris, and time enough if you please to see Vinceu, within two short Leagues of Paris. It is a House belonging to the King in the middle of a very pleasant Park: after you have seen the House emember to see the Wild Beasts that are kept not far from it. If You resolve upon making any greater tower into the counrey, I shall advise You to provide a Book called le voyage de France, of the latest edition, which will give you a hint of the most considerable things that are to be seen in those Places you go to. I shall defer any thing I would say further, until I be happy to hear of Your safe arrival at Paris, and then I would be content to trouble you with an other sheet: in the mean time I pray for Your happy journey and safe return.  
 
Sir,  
I entreat You to signify to Mr. Hannay as also to Mr. Cranston that if they have any thing to send to me, You will be pleased to take charge of it; I shall beseech You likewise to do the same by Monsr. Merchant at Paris.   

LETTER II.  
Containing Advice for making the grand Tower of France, with an Account of what is most observable relateing especially to the Natural History and Antiquities of that Kingdom.  
Sir,  
IT seems You are not yet resolved whither to spend the Winter in Paris or in the Country, my opinion is that out of Paris, there is little thing either to be seen or learned in all France; But in regard it is pertinent for a traveller to see some thing of the country as well as the chief Town: I shall therefore advise you to see those Places chiefly that I judge most suitable to your inclinations, and particularie in order to Botany, that is Languedock and Provence, for altho' there be many other places of France very worthy the ●eing, as particularly the River Loire from Orleans downward to Nantes, which for the fertility and beauty of the country, the frequency of good Towns and gentle disposition and Courtesy of the inhabitants, is called the Garden of France: yet you will find that Climate produces but a few things different from Normandy or the Isle of France: But if you should incline to see it, my advice is that you should not spend much time in doing of it, and therefore if you think fit you may make use of the following Advice at your Discretion.  
I suppose You leave Paris about the beginning of June (for I would not have you lose the Month of May in the King's Garden, in regard most things will be then, or a little before, in their Prime, which now that the Garden of Blois is no more in Condition, is undoubtedly the best you are like to meet with) and therefore, 1. you may go to Orleans by the Messenger: it is but two Days Journey; Lodge Chez Monsr. Ogilbie, sur l'●●stape au Roy de la Grand Bretaigne; A Day or two will serve you to see all that is considerable in the place; It will be worth your while to see a place some two Leagues from the City, called the Source, where in the midst of a fair green Meadow you will see a Spring of Water so plentiful, that it is navigable from its Head, and powers out a River called Loirette. 2ly. From Orleans to Blois, they count 15. Leagues, yet it is but a short Days Journey: besides if you please, you have the Commodity of the River to go by Boat; Be pleased to take Notice of a place by the Way, some 4. Leagues from Blois, called St. Die, where the best Claret in that Country grows, and is ordinarily to be found. Blois of itself is no very considerable Town, yet it is famous for making of Watches, for the Civility of the People, for the Sweetness of the Air, and Purity of the French Language. You must stay there some Days till you have seen the following Particulars; viz. in one day you may get to Chambort, a house belonging to the King, some three leagues off, on the south side of the River, and Southeast from the Town; It is said to have been built by King Francis I. and is a very stately House, though of a far different Order of Architecture than what is now used. From thence you may go to Herbeau, 3. Leagues to the southward of that, a private house belonging to a Gentleman that bears the title thereof. It is a very pleasant seat having very fine Gardens with an Orangery, Fishponds, Woods, Maille and Meadows belonging to it; from thence you may go to Bean-Regard another private house, where amongst other pretty things you will see a fine Gallery well ornamented with the pictures of such persons as have been illustrious for some age; from thence you return to Blois at night, & as you go and come you will have occasion to see that part of the forest of Blois that lies to the South of the River and town; as also a little village called St. Gervais, famous over all that country for excellent Cream; being returned to Blois, you may take notice of the Castle, as also of the Garden which is now Sedges ubi Troja; the keeper of it is Dr. Brumer my very good acquaintance, and sometimes one of the Herbarists to the late Duke of Orleans, as were also Monsr. Morison and Monsr. Marchand; upon any of whose accounts or yet upon mine, I am confident You will be very welcome to him; I believe You may as yet see some Plants in the Garden, from thence walk towards the Capucins or the mount, and you will have a delicate prospect both up & down the river; from thence walk towards the Alleys which you will possibly find to be the finest in length and breadth, and being well planted on either side, that you have hitherto seen; You may choose whither You will see Vendosme or not, it being a place not very considerable except for the Holy Tea●e, which is preserved in the Cathedral Church with much veneration, and which people go to see out of devotion; the town is famous for making of Gloves which are accounted the best of that country; upon the return from that place You may see the Fountain of Orchaise, of old Horrcum Caesaris (for some where not far from thence the Roman legion was said to be quartered) I take the fountain to be nothing else but a rivulet or little bourn falling over the Top of a soft Rock into which by process of time it hath cut in a considerable way through the whole depth of it, and being grown together upon the Top, it seems now to spring out of the Rock; over against that, cross a meadow, you must take notice of a Cave or Hole digged in the side of a little hill in which there is an Aromatic kind of Earth, not much inferior as is believed to the Terra Sigillatae of Lemnos; the common people call the place La cave de la terre Sigille.  
And here I must put you in mind that in this same meadow I have very often seen very large green Lizards, which because it is a beautiful creature and not found with us, I must entreat you where ever you find of them to cause preserve 1 or 2, to add to my Tradescants. I know not which will be the best way of preserving them, whither by skinning them, or drying the flesh, but I suppose the best way will be (especially if the skin be any thing strong) to cause skin them, preserving the head feet and tail, and then stop the Skin with Flax. There are likewise several other Birds in France which are not common with us, which I must earnestly entreat you to do the same by, as for example the Pie verte or Green Pyet, etc.  
3ly. from Blois you go to Amboise in half a day by water; the boat will give you liberty to see the Castle; in the Chapel whereof will be shown You hanging a pair of Horns, they say, of a Hart, the largest and biggest (if they be true) that ever was seen In the court of the Castle there is likewise to be seen a Rib, and one of the Back-Bones of the same Animal, You are brought out of the Castle by a Tower whose descent is so large and so easy, being without Steps, that a Coach may drive from the Bottom to the Top thereof. From thence You go Tours all Night, where  
4ly. In my time the best Lodging was A la St. Marthe; the place is commended for the Sweetness of its Situation, the delicacy of its Fields and Gardens, and many other Particulars. It will be worth Your while to see the Manufactories of Silk, especially the way of working Tissenes, and Brocarts, which You will see of divers Colours and some of Gold and Silver. The invention and way of making Tabbies, which I forbear to descrive, because You will abundantly discover it by sight. You must be at the pains to fetch a walk out of town a little way to see the Maille, which in any time was the longest and in the best order of any in France; and at the same time, you may go the length of the Minims Convent because the first instituter of their Order St. Francois de paul, lies Buried in the Church in a marble Coffin, as will be shown You, which People visit with great Veneration: if you will be at the pains to pass the River there is an ascent to the Capucins whence you may discover the whole City, and a great part of the Country about, which for its Beauty and Fertility is called the Gardin of France. and certainly deserves that Name better than any Place upon the whole River of Loir. There is likeways not far from Tours, a Place which they call la cave Gutiere, From the Top of which there drops a Liquor which Congeals into a substance almost as hard as a stone not much unlike that you sent me from Hamiltoun.  
5ly. You may go from Tours to Saumure a town famous for its Protestant University, of which we have two very honest countrymen that are members, Monsr. Doule and Monsr. Grace. You may take the pains to see Nostre damo d' Ardeliers a Place of great devotion; if you please you may see the Treasury which is Rich, and as you go and come, you may observe the great Trade of that Suburbs, to be making of Beads or Chaplets; I beseech you forget not to bring us some that are made of young Oranges: If you please you may see the Castle. At Saumure you must hire Horses to make a little tour of three days, and first you must go to Dove, where there is to be seen an ancient Amphitheatre cut out of a Rock, as it is said, by the Romans. There are likewise very many great quarries of free stone and the Workmen often find in cleaving of the stones, some little pieces of a finer and harder substance by far than the rest, which from the shape they have, They commonly call Langues de Serpents. The little Boys for a small matter will sell you abundance of them which I pray forget not to buy, If not for your own, at least for your friend's curiosity. From thence you must go to Thovars, a most delicate House belonging to the Duke of Tremoville, it is situate upon a Rock, and the greatest part of the office house's cut out of the Solid Rock. The next Morning you go too Waren, a very pretty House but not much worth the pains of seeing were it not in Your way to Richlieu, where you are to spend the rest of that day, That you may have the more time to view the town and House, which I think so well worthy your seeing, That for its sake a Journey from Paris that length were not ill bestowed. I shall say no more of of it, that I may not deprive you of the Gusto of being surprised with the Beauty of it. Amongst other things be pleased to take notice of two Marble statues that stand over the Gate, at the upper end of the inner Court, as also of a piece of painting in the Chapel, that was left by way of Legacy to the Cardinal by Monsieur de Mont Morency, when he was Beheaded at Thoulouse. There are two Books the one in 40. the other in 80. containing the Figure of the House, and parts thereof; they are sold, as I take it, by the Porter, of whom I entreat you to buy them for me.  
The third day you may Dine at Loudun where in my time there was a Religious Woman, that had been formerly Possessed. At the time of her cure which they say was Miraculous there was found Written on her hand JESUS MARIA JOSEPH, which still remained indelible. If she be yet alive you May see it. From thence you return by Shinon, where they say the famous Francis Rabelais had his first breeding in an old convent, From thence you pass throw Most delicate Meadows called the Valley of Shinon, and in your way to Saumure some three Leagues from the Town you may see a Monastery of Religious Women whereof the Lady Abbas in my time was the Queen-mothers' Sister of Great Britain.  
6ly. You may hire horses to La Fleche, where the only thing considerable is the Jesuits College. It is a most noble Structure, and by far the best they have in France. Take Particular notice of their Church where the heart of Henry the 4th who gave them that House is kept: The Bibliotheck: The Theatre-hall: their Office houses, particularly the Kitchen; the Bakehouse, where one Man and a Dog makes bread for all the College every day: the Myln where the Water that moves the Wheel doth likewise move a Pump that furnisheth water to the whole College. The best lodging was Au quatre Vents. From hence you must again take horse to Angiers.  
7ly It is a Town famous for the Profession of Laws, and hath likewise a Faculty of Physic: See the great Church called St. Maurice, and therein one of those pots in which our Saviour converted the water into Wine at the Marriage of Cana in Galilee. See the mail, and at the end of it next the town the Minims Convent. You will find in their Garden several Kind's of Ilex; You will likewise find in several places of the Country not far from the Town several sorts of Pinastres, as also a kind of Fruit tree called Cormes, not mnch unlike our Raun-tree, the Fruit whereof hangs in Clusters like our Roddens: but of an other colour, and bigness every one being as big as a Plumb. A League or two from the town towards the East, are the Pierries or quarries, of blue Skleat called Ardoise which serve the greatest part of France: See the Castle, and in it that famous crib where Rene King of Sicily and Duke of Anjou imprisoned his Queen out of Jealousy all the days of her life. About half a League distant from the town, down the River stands a Convent called Bamet, worthy of seeing; there is likewise on the other side of the River an old abbacy called Les Bons Hommes, near to which there is a little lake, which I suppose to have been the place where the blue Sklate was dug of old; you will find about the sides of it, abundance of Tribulus aquaticus, the Fruit thereof is ripe in the Month of August; they use to Boyll them and Sell them as they do Chasnuts, from which they differ not much in Taste or Quality, but very much in Figure, and therefore be pleased to provide a Quantity of them for yourself and Friends. You may likewise dry the Plant, if you think fit.  
8ly You May go If you please from Angiers to Nantes either by Water or by Land, in one day; It is a pretty town and stands upon the Loir and the Sea flowing up above the town gives Commodity to Ships of a considerable Burden to come up to the Town. It is here that the greatest part of the Wines that grow upon this River or near to it, together with the Brandie made thereof, which are carried out of France, are Embarked. You must return again to Angiers, and from thence to Paris with the Messenger. It is a Journey of five days, and all that I know considerable in it, is first, That when You come near to Man's (which you will leave at a League's Distance, upon the Le●t Hand) You will find in abundance a Kind of Cistus, not mentioned by any that I know of, except Petrus Bellonius. Forget not to preserve a Branch or two, which You may Fold in your Portefoile, which for such rencounters you'll do well to be still Provided of, and You may cause make them of what Bigness You please, and have them furnished with Grey Paper within. I did always use to Carry one of a 40 Form, with good Tire to it in a Carpet Bag (such as they use in France) tied to the Tore of my Saddle, so that if it was My Fortune to Meet with any thing by the Way worth the Gathering, I could easily take it and preserve it with out being in Danger to Loss my Company. 2ly. The Town of Chartres; in the great Church whereof (which is a most stately Fabric) K. Henry iv was Sacred. It is a Place of great Devotion, and there is kept in it amongst other Relics, one of our Lady's smocks. You will meet with several little shops near to the church, where the chief Trade is Beads, and as they call them des Chemises de Chartres, which Devout People Buy and append to their Chaplets, and then get them to Touch the Relics, according to the Custom.  
You may furnish this Journey, and have Time enough at Paris to Prepare yourself for the Journey to Provence and Languedock before the Dog-Days be ended, at which Time it will be fit to begin your Journey. And 1st. You may take the Messenger to Lions; I think You must Pay about twenty Crowns; for the Journey is of nine Days; There are not many things considerable to be seen by the way; only take Notice 1st at Nevers of the Glass-Works, and Faiance, or white Lame-works, of which the best in France are here. 2ly. At Mouline (where you will fall to Dine) ●●quire for the monastery where the body of Monsr. de Monmorancy is in●erred, You may see a very stately Monument of Marble. The Town is famous for the manufactory of Knives and Scissors. You will not miss to be troubled with a company of Women, who wait upon the arrival of Strangers, to show them quantities of this kind o● ware in hopes to Sell some. 3ly. Take notice of the Well of Pouge, the water is Alummous and boills up in great quantity, of a whiteish colour, as if there were meal mixed with it. 4ly. Roan; which is said to be the largest Bourg in France: they call that Bourg which is not encompassed with wall or ditch. The Loir gins to be Portable here and carry Boats, But it's source is many Leagues higher. 5ly. Mont tarare; It is a very great Hill, and here You will find a change of the climate together with the change of Plants, which I leave to Your observation, and think it will be worth Your while at night to make a note of all those Plants that You meet with. Being arrived at Lions You must stay some time to see the place, which altho' in regard of its situation amongst Hills and Rivers, it be somewhat unwholesome, the Air, being either too moist, or in Summer t●o hot; yet I look upon it as one of the best and most important Towns in France, both for the magnificknesse of the Buildings, the great tra●ique it hath with almost all Places of the World, to which the situation of it betwixt two Rivers, the Soane and the Rhosne is no small advantage; for by the Soane it hath Communion not only with Burgundy, but also with the Ocean; for Chalon which stands upon the Soane, is but a days Journey from Auxere, which stands upon the Saine, and that River you know disimbogues itself in the Ocean at Haver●degrace. By the Rhosne, it hath communion with the Mediterranean Sea, and consequently, with all the Levant. The Soane in Latin Araxis is a Pleasant and very soft flowing River; the Rhosne is Fluviorum Rapidissimus. The people are very ingenious and dextrous in the matter of traffic and business, they are likeways courteous & human, your most convenient Lodging, will be Auxtrois-Rois: It is a good House and nea● to the place where the Messenger of Paris arrives. As also to the Posthouse. Remember to see the Maisone-de-Villo which without exception is the most stately in France: Take particular notice of its Fabric, Statues, Paintings, and ancient Inscriptions, of which some are extant upon Brass, its Fountain's, courts, etc. 2. See the great Church of St. John, and in it a most Stately and Curious Clock, upon the upper part of which, immediately before the hour strike, the blessed Virgin appears with the Angel before her, as she uses to be represented at the Annunciation, and within a little, a Cock upon the top claps his Wings and Crows, and then the hour strikes. There is likeways considerable in it, a Hand that points the minute of the hour upon the O●al, and altho' the parts of an Oval line, be not equally distant from the centre yet the Hand which is fixed in the centre, doth always reach that line and never exceed it, in the whole compass it maketh. 3ly. There is an Old Monument about the middle of that Fauxbourgh, by which the Messenger of Paris enters they call it Tombeau-de-deux Amants. It seems to be of Roman antiquity. 4ly, See the Bishop's House & and Gardens, the great Place before it, the Bridge over the Rhosne: And in short consider the Avenues and Compass of the Town.  
5ly. Forget not to take with you your Catalogue of Books, for there are many Booksellers in this Place, that have great Magazines of Books, and have great traffic with all Germany, Switzerland and Italy, and it is very like, you may come by Books here that you miss of at Paris; For so it happened to myself.  
I must not omit in this place to tell you that it will be expedient, to draw your Money from Paris, to Lions, either by Bill of Ex-change, or Letter of credit, upon some honest, substantial Merchant, to whom yond must be sure to yet good Recommendation: By his means you may return your Money, to any other place as you shall have occasion, and likeways be furnished with new recommendations as you desire; & this way you may make your Money march from place to place, without fear or danger; and if you light upon honest Men the Exchange will cost you nothimg, unless it be from Paris to Lions; because of the disrance and that will not be above half a one per-Cent: Your Merchant at Lions, will be a convenient Steple for receiving your Letters, or any thing else, that you please to send from any other place, and to send it forward to Paris, to be kept for you. By them you shall give advice to receive it from the Carriers, or otherways to the Merchant, that returns your Money to Lions: But of these things I have said enough, for I doubt not that you are sufficiently informed of them already.  
From Lions, you take Boat to Avignion, which is about fi●tie Leagues: if the River be not very low, which seldom happeneth, you would go near to accomplish it, in two days and a half, or three at most.  
You have to take notice of, by the way 1st. Vienne, a little but ancient Town, five Leagues from Lions. See the forges where they make Sword-blades, the Haminers are moved by a wheel which the Water turns, so that the Strokes are both frequent and equal. The Town hangs upon the side of a Hill toward the River. 2ly. some nine Leagues from Vienne, there is an old Castle called Le Maisone de Pillate, the place is no otherways considerable than for having been the retreat of Pontius Pilate, driven here, by, God knows, what accident. 3ly. Valence, a Pretty Town only considerable for its University. 4ly. Le Pont-Sanct-Esprite seventeen Leagues lower than Valence, the Town is not very considerable, but only for the Bridge, from whence it takes its name, and which at that place stands upon the Rhosne; that which renders the Bridge so considerable, is the breadth of the River, and Impetuosity of the current; for besides other small Rivers, both the Soane and the Isere, a little before You come at Valence, and several others below that, loss themselves therein.  
When you come at Avignion, You may lodge at Louxenbourg. The Town and Country belongs to the Pope, whose Legate resides in Quality of Governor. It will be fitting to stay here some Days, that You may the better take Notice of the following Particulars. 1. The Churches and Religious Houses. 2ly. The Legat's Palace. 3ly. The Situation, and Avenues of the Town, together with the Walls thereof, which are high and stately, and it will be worth Your while to go about them in regard of the Occasion You will have to Herbarize, for here you will find many Plants that did not appear in any other part of your Journey. 4ly. The Jury or Cantone of the Town where the Jews dwell, I advise You by all means if You can stay of a Saturday to see their Synagogue and manner of Worship, and if you be Curious and make Enquiry, You may possibly see a Circumcision. 5ly. You may hire Horse● to Orange, which is but half a days Journey up the River. The Town and Principality belongs to the Prince of Orange; It is an ancient, tho' little Town; It was considerable in My time for the Castle, which was very Strong, both by Art, and by its natural Situation, which was so high, that from thence one might have discovered seven or eight Provinces about, at least some part o● them: the Town hath an ●niversity tho' not very considerable; The inhabitants for the most part are Protestants. There are yet extant some Monuments of antiquity, viz a Triumphal Arch a lttle without the Town, and some ruins of a Theatre within the Town, both of which shows something of the Roman Greatness, in Respect of Modern Times; The Country about is fertile, and there are whole ●●●lds of ●a●ron. I think it might be well worth the while to inquire about the best way of Planting, cultivating, gathering and preparing o● it. Having seen these thing and Dined, You return to Your Lodging at Avignion the same day. The next day you take Horses for Aix, which is about two days Journey or two days and a half a most. If You depart from Avignion early in the morning You will have time enough to see Vauclus, which is three Leagues from Avignion and then to go Dine at Cavaillion. I look upon Vaucluse as one of the most considrable things I have ever seen: it is a fountain at the foot of a great Rock very Large and ●f immense deepness, which pours out so much Water as to Move four or five Milnes about half a Mile below. It is observed that the Water Diminishes and increases according to the season of the Year. In rainy Wether it abounds most, and Yet when you consider the position of it, how much it is elevated above the plain, and what vast hills and Rocks are about it, It is not conceaveable with what other Water▪ it should have any communion. The River that comes from it tumbles over so many stones and craig's; that it makes a noise like the Catarracks, and having near three quarters of a Mile to fall, it becomes exceeding swift before it arrive the Plain, and there divides itself in two, and encloses a little Meadow in Form of an Isle, and then joins again. The Water is so Clear, finding nothing among the Rocks to Defile it, that notwithstanding its Swiftness, yet it hinders not the grass to grow in its bed. The Fiver is likewise recomended for excellent Trout and Crawfish and it is agreeable to Reason they should be good that live in so pure streams; When You come the length of the Mil●s you must quite Your Horse, to walk up ●o the Sour●e, & and for that 〈◊〉 must take a guide, without which the way is not easy. As You go up you will observe upon the other side, in two other places, the Ruins of two old Castles, the one standing about a Musket shot higher than the other, in the uppermost whereof did sometimes live that Noble Philosopher, and Poet Franciscus P●trarcha and in the lower Donna Laura his Mistress, in the praise of whose beauty and virtue he composed his most excellent Triumfe d' Amore; a Monument that hath outlasted her family, in which her Memory is like to live as long as Wit and Learning continues in reputation. You may also in this place take notice of the Paper-Milns and consider that so useful art of making Paper, and labour to inform yourself well of all the particulars that when GOD shall be pleased to return you, you may make it Practicable in your own Country. I am sure we want not Linen rags in abundance which might be preserved for this use, and not thrown into the Dunghill's, were people put once in the right way.  
From hence you go to Dine at Cavaillion; in the rest of the Journey to Aix, there is nothing considerable, only you have a River to pass by boat called Durance. Aix, is one of the most delicate Towns in France, It's the Capital City of Provence and the seat of a Parliament. The streets are large, especially one great street, the Buildings fair and stately, The City well watered and the Air very healthful and Sweet.  
From hence you go to Marseilles in half a day, you may lodge at a l' Aigle or al' teste noire. You must resolve to stay two or three days at least, for the more commodious seeing and observing the following things. 1st. the Harbory or Port, which is very spicious and deep, and exceedingly well guarded, having upon he entry thereof to the Sea ward, which is very narrow, not only a chain drawn, but also a very strong Citidale, built within these seven or eight years, upon the one side o● it, and an other ●ort upon a little Island within the Sea, at a leagues distance from the entry, all which rendereth it most secure from the Algiers and T●n●ies Men of War and other Pirates. 2ly. the Cathedral Church, which you may easily guess to be very ancient, from the Model and Architecture thereof. It was first extructed in the honour of Digna by the Greek Phocenses, who had a Colony here. 3ly. Take notice in the 〈◊〉 before the Church upon the wall looking to the Sea, of nine or ten large Brass Guns, which use upon the day of the Towns great festivity (which is sometime in October) to be loaden with Bull and discharged by so many of the best gunner's of the Town, a●ter great Mass is ended, at a white mark placed on the Side of the hill, on the other side of the Harbour. He that shoots nearest the Mark is esteemed the best Gunner for that year. They begin to fire just as the Archbishop comes out of the Church. Who having celebrated Mass in Pontificalibu●, returns to his own Hous● accompanied with the Consul and chief Magistrates of the Place, and generally a●l the Gentlemen & citizens of the best fashion, in their best apparel and a great consort of Music. 4ly. Nostre dame de la guard, a Castle upon the Top of the Hill to the Southward of the Town, in in the going thither, you will do well to bestow a whole day, and take with you a couple of Soldiers, from the Citidale, or else a Couple of other Soldiers armed at least with Swords, and let one of them carry a couple of bottles o● Wine with bread and what else you think fit, as provision for that day, the other may carry a Basket with you empty, being thus accourted, you may Herbarize upon the way to the Castle, and put a little quantity of every Herb you find into your empty basket, the better to judge of it at your return; as also of what Seeds you find you may put up some for your own and friends use, you may return by the way of the Sea, and so Herbarize all thereabouts. It is a most excellent place for Variety of Plants, amongst the rest take particular notice of the Tarto●rair Massiliensium, upon the Sea side you may likewise take notice, what Stones or shells, Mosses or any other natural curiosities you can observe, & if any be worth the preserving bring them along with you. 5ly I would have you bestow half a day in a boat upon the Sea without the Harbour, but so as it be very calm, for than you will easily see the bottom of the Water, especially where it is not very deep, because the Water hath no Motion of ebbing or flowing, and so you may possibly light upon curiosities worth the gathering, for the taking up of which, you must provide Creepers, which the Seamen know how to use. 6ly. Take notice of the situation Fabric, and Avenues of the Town, especially some Shops upon the Shore, where you will find many curiosities, especially from the Levant. I must recommend myself to you here, but especially for a good handsome Tree of red Coral; as also one of those that are black, but are not true Coral, and what else you think fit; I shall hold you good account, for all expenses; you may send them with your own things to Lions, with Order to your Friend there to send them to Paris, to be received by your Factor and kept for you. 7ly. The Place is commended for perfumes, sweet-Powders, Franchipane-Gloves, etc. But there is great cheating both in the Prices and Quantities of the things; therefore take heed to yourself, if you buy any of them: I did formerly forget to tell you that Avignion is famous for the same things, but especially for Gloves; whereof the manufactory is very good; and Essences. But now I return to Marsails where 8ly. Take occasion frequently to view the Fishmarket, where you will not miss to see great variety of strange Fishes well worth the observing, and for that end I wish you to acquaint yourself with the Icones Piscium, together with their description, by Petrus Bellonius, it is in a Long 80. and not very thick, & therefore you may take it along with you from Pari. If any of these Fishes which are not common with us can be preserved or kept any way; as I doubt not but you will find inventions to do it, you will exceedingly oblige us to bring them along with you, or send them as said is: Be pleased to inquire ches les Espiciers for a kind of Seed which they call Grain d' Avignion, they sell it in great quantity to Dyers who use it for Dying Yellow; it is the Lycium Gallicum Dalechampij; It is a Shrub not common here, nor yet in the North of France, and therefore worth the taking notice of; I would have you bring us some quantity of the grain for a Show about an ounce or so: But because I suspect, that which the Gross cell is dried; therefore I think it will be more profitable to search at Avignion, where it grows plentifully, for some that is better conditioned for your own use. In your herborization at Marsaills especially upon the Hill, amongst other rare Plants, you will find Mypum Montis Ceti, sive herba terribilis Narb●n●nsium Lobelij.  
9ly. Take a view of the Country about Marsaills from some eminent Place, especially east from the Town, where the fertility is so great and the Country-Houses, and Gardens, so thick, that they use to call it the Suburbs o● Marsaills, and say merrily, that Marsaills and its suburbs is bigger than Paris: The great conveniency of these Houses is to acc●mmodat the Citizens with a retireing Place, in time of Plague, as also to divert themselves in Summer, and to provide necessars for House keeping.  
At Marsaills you must hire Horses to Frayole, which is some three day's Journey east ward toward Niece; In this Journey, besides the things of Pleasure you will see in this higher Provence, you will have the best herborization, almost all the way, that you can possibly desire; you must part from Marsaills early in the morning, that you may have the more time to herbarize by the way, & that you may arrive in good time before it be Night at Saint Beaume, a Place of much Devotion, and the greatest Solitude in the World. In the middle of a vast and terrible Rock, there is a great cave where St. Maria Magdalen did penance for many years before her Death: it's now upon that consideration turned into a Chapel, with some few Rooms clacht up against the face of a Rock, like a Bird cage upon the side of a Wall, where some Religious Men (as I think Jacobins) keep the Place, and serve the cure in the Chapel every Day receiving confessions, & giving the Sacraments to such as require them. There is a little kind of a chainge-house close to it, that provides Meat for Men and Horses, at their own expenses, but you mnst lie within the convent; in the morning you must take a Guide to the Top of the Craig, where there is an other Chapel of Devotion just in that Place where the Angels did use once a Day, to carry the Saints, from the cave to administer consolation to her. As you go and come you may herbarize, for the whole side of the Hill before you come at the Rock, is a Wood: Upon your Arrival at the convent it is expedient to give some little thing out of Charity, which I think is bestowed in maintaining the place. You will ordinarily find without the Chapel Door, some few little Merchants that sell Reads, and amongst other things, Silk-Cords of the just length and greatness of the Saint, all which People use to buy and carry in to the Chapel, there to touch the Statue of the Saint; which l●es just in that Place, and in that Posture, that she used to do penance in; you will likeways see within the Chapel a very Large Well of good Water, which they say did first spring there by miracle, for use of the Saint. From hence you take Horses to Saint Maximine, a little Town, in the great Church whereof, amongst other relics, the Body of St. Maximine, Uncle to St. Mary Magdalen, & sometimes Bishop of Marsaills, is preserved: If you please you may take this opportunity of seeing it, and there dine, for it is a little out of your way to Brignole, where you must lie the second Night, and the Day following you Dine at a Village called Luques, and then go to lie ae Frayote, or Freust, which you please to call it. It's a Town of Roman antiquity, of which there are yet some rests to be seen, as aqueducts, etc. The Town is not otherways considerable at all; you will do well here, besides your own Guide that goes along with you to take another Man from the Town, with an empty Basket, to wait upon you to the Hil, called Astral, about a League from the Town, where you will have one of the most pleasant Heborizations in the World: Amongst a great variety of Shrubs, Plants, and Trees, you will find a great Number of Arbutus, loaden with Fruit, of a most Beautiful aspect; yet, somewhat insipid to the taste, It may safely be eaten, but doth not much allure the taste. Several kind of Spinous Shrubs, amongst which Acaeia Secunda Dioscorides sive Aspalathus, when you come upon the Top of the Hil, upon the way to Niece, there is an Inn, where you may make a Shift for Dinner, and a little beyond it, upon the North-side of the Hil, you will meet with abundance of Cork-Trees, Ilex, Abics, Picca, etc.  
I must give you notice here, that in this place, you are not, above two or three hours riding, from Cane, a Village, upon the Seaside, some eight or nine Leagues distant from Niece, where (were you to go to Italy,) you might commodiously hire a Fel●oque of two Oars a side for Genova, and arrive there in four or five days, Ter a Terre, that is Landing every Day to your Dinner, and to your Lodging, in some convenient Town: But I shall say nothing of Italy, until I understand from yourself, that you have a design for it.  
I shall therefore return to Astrate, where having satisfied yourself, with herbarizing you may return to Freiust; loaden with Seeds, and Plants, and there consider them at your ease: From thence you may return to Marseills in two days and so to Avignion, by the way of Arles, Saint Eloy de Cro● Tarascon. At Arles, remember to see the entry into a great Passage all Vaulted, which they say goes under the Rhosne to Nismes, & was made by the Romans. At Tarascon, you will see on the other side of the River Bea●caire, most famous for a very great Fair or Market, kept there once a Year, to which great Numbers of Merchants from many Places of the Levant, do resort.  
From Avignion, you go ●o Nismes, but you must part by times in the morning that you may have the conveniency to see Pont de Gardiner, which is one of the finest Pieces of Antiquity extant in the World. It is a Part of that A Aqueduct, which the Romans built for conveying a part of the water of the Rhosne from the Pont St. Esprite to Nismes, & because at the Place where the Bridge stands, the River Gardiner runs low betwixt two Hills, there was a necessity of raising the Aqueduct so high as to levelly the Tops of these Hills, therefore it hath three Ranges of Arches, the lowermost are the biggest but fewest in number; they are likeways the broadest, for besides that they support the second row of Arches, they do likeways serve on the other side for a Passage and Bridge for foot, Horse▪ and coaches to the highway: The second supports the third, which are not so high, but many more in number, on the Top of all is the Aqueduct five or six foot broad, and four or five foot deep, it is compassed with great Flag Stones on all sides, exceedingly well cemented together, insomuch that I believe it be yet very entire, except it be some few of the covering Stones that are broke and fallen away.  
Nismes is some three Leagues, but they are long ones, from the Pont de Gardiner; And I must tell you, altho' the way you are to follow from Avignion to Nismes, by the Pont de Gardiner, be for the most part very barren, yet you will find the Weeds for the most part are, Cistum ledum Narbonense, thime, lavender, Satureia, myrtles, timelaea, corranda, Smilax aspera, Lentiscus, Terebinthinus, Staebe Salamantica, caliculis argenteis B. Ilex, Sabina baccifera, junip: fructu majori, Cistus mass, Cistus faemina, thymum cephaloton  
Clematis, vel flammula repens, aespalathus▪ phyllarelea Folio non serrata, Jesiminum luteum bacciferum, Stellaria argenter Ambrosia campestris, datura simplici calice albo, aster attious foliolis ad florem rigidis, aster lunariae folio, flore trifolij. Jacea cianoides flore albo folio multifido, trifolium bituminosum, acarna lutea, Eringium luteum monspel: bicopsis flore carnec, Carduus Spharocephalus ceruleus, amaranthus viridis, campanula flore plumeo, attriplex non descript● Semine singulari binis foliolis incluso, Linaria minor lutea, paliurus and a great many more that I cannot remember of; but it will be well worth the while to take a Note of the Plants you find in every Place.  
At Nismes you must lodge Aux Arenes; you will see there a brave Amphitheatre built by the Romans, in greater integrity yet than any that ever I saw in Italy, the Stones of which it is built, as well as the Pont de Gardiner, are of incredible Bigness, and altho' the things themselves be somewhat ruined; yet they show greater Stateliness and Magnificence than any modern Building. There are some other remaine● of antiquity about the Town which will be shown you. From Nismes you take Horses for Mompellier, which is a Days Journey from it; You dine at Lunel which is about midway, and because I have nothing to say of this Place, I shall entreat you to bring me three or four ounces of the Seeds of palliurus, for amongst other uses they serve for, they are the best Bullets for Cauters that can be, but it is for an other use I would have them.  
You will do well to stay some days at Montpellier: You may lodge at the white Horse, or otherways as you find your accommodation. It is a delicate sweet Town, the Streets well built, but narrow, because of the heats which are as great here as in any place of France, nor is it strange it should be so, being it is near upon the same latitude with Rome. You will do well to see the Physic Schools, there is some Curiosities to be seen in them. 2ly. The Physick-Garden; in which you will find many excellent Plants; by making a little acquaintance with the Gardener, you may command what Seeds he has.  
3ly. You will do well to make acquaintance with some of the Students or young Doctors of Physic, by whose means and in whose company you may see all the places about Monpelier that are fit for Herbarizing, as particularly Magelon, a little Island of the Mediterranean Sea, lying within Sight of Monpellier. But by all means of the World, you must be sure to make a Journey ten or twelve Leagues from Mompellier, to a Place amongst the Hills, which for the great variety of Plants, that is found in and about it, is called Hortus Dei.  
You may likeways find some variety of Shells and productions of the Sea, to Mompellier and the Shoar, or Coast, which is near the Town.  
I must not omit to tell you, that if you please to make a Collection of dry Plants, this is a very fit Place for it, both because of the heat which helps to dry them, both soon and well; & also because of the Garden & Fields, that abound with Plants, that are not common, & likeways, because of the good occasion you have to send them in a Box, close packed up, (as you have seen mine) to Lions, etc.  
In like manner, if you will make a Collection of Seeds, the best will be to keep them in their Seed-Vessels, and write upon every parcel, that you may dispose of them afterwards according to your pleasure.  
This I wish you to do in every Place, that afterwards when it shall please God to bring you safely to bring them home, Tho' you should not be able to raise them in this climate, yet you might have enough to know them by. Do not forget the Booksellers here, who may possibly have some of the Books you look for. I must desire one Favour of you in this Place, that You would be pleased to inquire after the Psilothrum or Depilatory Ointment, which they use in Rome in the Baths, and which I was so Unlucky as not to mind when I was upon the place. It you can find the Receipt, cause make some small quantity of it to try if it be Right, which you will easily know by this, that being rubbed upon any hairy place, within a little space, when you come to wipe it off, it takes the hair without burning or scalding the Skin; but if it either burn or discolour the Skin, it is not right. The place is afterward to be washed with a little warm Water. I must likeways entreat you to be at this pains to cause dry me a Viper or two, it will be enough to dry their Skins with the heads at them, stopped with Flax, or Cotton: but in no way must you meddle with them yourself, because there is Danger, but employ one of those fellows that brings them to the Apothecaries, who for a small matter will do it. Some day or other, you may be at the pains to see Frontiniague famous for that generous Moschat Wine, called by the name of the place, you may Collation there, and Harbarize as you go and come.  
When you are satisfied here, it will be fit to set forward to Thoulouse. You will see by the way, 1st. Pesenas' a Pretty Town, where it may fall you to dine, Au tapis vert, hard by the Town, there is a very fine House, with excellent Gardens, belonging to the Prince of Condie, it is worthy of your seeing. 2ly. Beziers; 3ly. Narbone, which is a very strong and well fortified Town, near upon the borders of Catalonia. It hath communion with the Sea, by means of a little River, that runs through the Town. Be pleased to see the great Church, and in it a Piece of excellent Painting, representing the History of our Saviour's raising Lazarus from the Dead. Take likeways notice of the Organs, the great Pipes whereof ●stand by the Pillar sides, at a great distance from the Organ room, and have the Wind conveyed to them by a secret conduct; which tho' it be no difficult thing, yet it is not common.  
From Narbonne, you have six or seven Leagues to Carcassone; They are two, Ville and City; the City stands upon a height about half a League's distance from the Town: It is twice encompassed with Walls and Ditches, and is very strong, as being upon the Frontiers o● Catalonia. The Town stands below in the Plain, and is much larger, better ●uilt, and better inhabited, & Walled about with a more modern kind of Fortification. The Town is commended for Cloath-works, & making of Combs: The Tradesmen use to bring them to the Inns as soon as they understand any Stranger to be arrived; but your best will be to go to their Houses, and see all, & try severals, for so you may best please yourself, and make the best bargain too. There is of all Prices, insomuch that I have seen ten Pistoles refused for one single Comb, of Box-Wood. But indeed it was of a vast bigness and most curiously carved. You may have very good ones for three, four, or five Livres a piece, as also some for 30, 40, & 50 Solds. To be short, there is of all kinds and prices, and I shall earnestly entreat you, to bestow four or five Crowns, upon some of the middle sort, that is next to the best, and some again of the next degree to them for me, (because of the carving) to add to my Tradescants. They must be packed up in a little wooden Box, which the Tradesmen know very well how to do.  
From Carcassone to Thoulouse, you have twelve Leagues, viz. Four to Vilpeinte, two to Castelna●▪ d' Arri, two to Vignonnet and four to Thoulouse. The Second Town (in the opinion of some) in France, how justly, I leave to yourself, when you shall see it. The Town indeed is very big, and well built, all of Brick; But not very populous, I think for the want of Trade, in regard it lies far from the Sea. Amongst other things, take notice of the following particulars 1st. The Town House, in the Court whereof they Show you the place where the Scaffold was erected, that Monsr: de Momorancy was beheaded upon, and some of his Blood yet Sticking upon the Wall. 2ly. The Parliament House, into which (if it be sitting) you must neither carry Sword, nor Spurs, unless you make account to pay a Forfaulter. 3ly. The Bridge over the River Garonne, which is very stately, built of Brick, somewhat after the Model of the new Bridge of Paris, having a Foot walk raised on every side, so that these that pass on foot, are not troubled with Coaches, Cairts, etc. that pass in the middle. 4ly. In the convent (as I take it) of the Cordeliers, there is a Piece of ground under a Chapel, belonging to the Church, wherein all Dead Bodies, that lie eight and forty hours, are so dried, but without the consumption of any substantial part, that they become incorruptible for ever thereafter. They will show you in a Vault, hard by the Chapel, some hundred of Bodies, standing about the Walls entire and dried, as I have said, amongst the rest they show one body of a Woman, called la Belle Paul, Mistrels as it is said to some King, whose name I do not remember: But it is some hundreds of Years since she died, and yet me thinks there is a beautiful Proportion observable in her Face. The rest of the curiosities consist in Churches, religious-houses, etc. which I leave to yourself.  
From Thoulouse to Montauban you about half a Day's Journey, it is famous for the Protestant University; It stands somewhat high and declines a little toward the Bridge, that stands over the Tarne, which not far below the Town, casts itself into the Garonne. It hath many fine Fountains; but especially one, which they call the Gri●one. It hath good traffic, because of the situation betwixt Thoulouse and Limoge and Paris, as also because of the Commodity of the River, to Bourdeaux: the Town and Bridge are all built of Brick. It was formerly very strong, but because of its Rebellion is now Dismantled of all Fortification.  
From Moutauban to Bourdeaux, you may go by Water in a very short Time, because the River is rapid; the Country about is very fertile and Pleasant. You will see by the Way, Again, an ancient City, where julius Scaliger was Born: within 4 or 5 Leagues of Bourdeaux stands Cadiliac, a most delicate Castle, belonging some time to the Duke d' Espernon; You must not fail to see them.  
At Bourdeaux, I did lodge au Chapeau rogue; but I have been told since, that there are more commodious Inns in Town, which You may easily be addressed to. You will meet with several of our Countrymen in this Place; But particularly, Sir David Inglish, and Harry jossy▪ are of my acquaintance. And therefore, I must desire you to see them, & permit this, to present them my service. I must likeways entreat you, to be at the pains, to inquire for a Doctor of Physic, of the Religion that lives here, whose name I have forgotten; but you will know him by this, that he hath written in French Something against Doctor wiles de Febribus: which I remember Sir David Inglish, did once send me to Paris. And therefore, he may Probably know the Man: The Reason I desire You to speak with him, is, That you may learn from himself, what he hath Published, upon this or any other Subject; and whatsoever they be, I must entreat You earnestly, to buy them for me; for I have a very great Honour for the Man's Parts, tho' I know not his Person; and I had the evil Luck to lend that Book, which Sir David Inglish sent me, to a Doctor at Paris, that did never render it me again. Remember to see in the Town, 1st. Piliers tutilarrs, which are the Ruins of an Ancient Roman Temple. 2ly. The Ruins of an Amphitheatre, without the Town, of Roman Antiquity likeways. 3ly. The Cheasteau Trumpet, in which there is a Garrison kept by the King. It was pulled down by the Citizens, in the Time of their last Rebellion; but since rebuilt much better and stronger. 4ly. The Port, which if you happen to see in the Time of Vintage, will be well furnished with Ships from all Places, and it may be from Scotland. 5ly. That piece of Ground without the Town, which they call Grave; which brings forth the best Wine about Bourdeaux, and which for the most part is sold within the Town, at as great a Rate as ordinary French Wine gives with us: And therefore being there is no great quantity of it, and that it would not turn the Merchants to Account to send it here, you may easily guess how much Graves Wine We Drink in Scotland, altho' Our People are pleased to Flatter themselves, that all their Clarets are such; The rest I leave to others, to inform you of. I must only tell you, You will meet with as good Fruits here as in any place of France, Des Treffices in Latin Tuberae Terrae, they are found under the Ground by the Hogs, who use to smell them before they come at them, and by the noise and gests they make, give notice to their keeper, who presently puts them by, and Digs the Trefice for himself: They are in great esteem, & being Boiled and pared, use to be eaten by themselves with Pepper and Oil, or else cut down with other things en Ragoust. There are likeways here a kind of small Birds but exceeding fat, which they call Ortolans, which are much prized for great Delicacies.  
From Bourdeaux you go to Rochel. In the way you pass by these Places; first Blay, Ville et City, The City stands on a Hight and Commands the River. It was at this Place that of old the English Ships were Obliged to liver their Canon, which were permitted the Scots (as a Privilege) to keep a Board; as they passed to Bourdeaux. 2ly. Xaintes or Saints, the Capital Town of Xaintonge; It stands upon the River Charante; here are some Rests of Roman antiquity, as of an Amphitheatre, etc. But especially of an Arch, upon the Bridge over the Charante, on which you will read this inscription. Caesari nep: D. julij Pontifici A. There is also an inscription, on the reverse which I remember not. You will see likeways here a Steeple, the Stairs whereof that lead to the Top are on the outside. 3ly. Brovage; about half a Days Journey from Saintes, a little, but one of the most regularly fortified Towns in all France, in which there is a continual Garrison kept, as a Guard for the Salt, of which vast quantities is made here, by the heat of the Sun every Year in this manner. They let in the Sea water by a 〈◊〉, cut purposely in the ground into several ponds, cut out likeways of purpose of a certain deepness: they fill them in the Summer time, and then stop the entries that no more water come in; when the Sun hath co●●●cted it enough, they gather it together i●●eaps, and carry it to places appointed for it. The Town stands upon a little River which i● navigable, because the Sea flows a good way above it, the Salt marshes about the Town, are little less than four Leagues about, & render the Town by so much the more strong. You must be sure to arrive there at a good Hour in the day, for at Sunsetting the Gates are shut, and none whatsoever can enter. You must Salute the Governor, or in his absence, the Chief●Off●cer, and desire Liberty of him to view the Town, which he will readily grant you, and appoint a Soldier to wait upon you; from the Walls, you will discover the Marshes about the Town, and then he will bring you to the Arsenal, and there you will see their Magazine of Ai●s, and then having given something to the Soldier to drink, you may thank the Governor & take leave of him. This is all that is to be seen in this place except you make account to see the Isle of Ol●rone, which lies without the mouth of the little River, about a League or two in the Sea.  
From Brovage you have seven Leagues to the Rochel, upon the Way to which you will have occasion to see a great many Sea-Plants, such as Kali, Kali Spinosum, Salicornia, Cakeile S●rapionis, Papaver corniculatum luteum, Eringium Marinum, Crithmum; with many others.  
The Rochel is much more famous for what it was, than for what it is, It was the strongest hold, the Protestants had in France, but after the taking of the Town by Lewes the 13th. the Walls thereof were quite demolished, so that scarcely the vestiges thereof remain: the Harbour is considerable, for it enters within the middle of the Town. At present it hath a considerable traffic 〈◊〉 Salt, white Wines, etc.  
You must be at the pains to see the Isle of Re, about a League from the Town, but not above a quarter of a League from the Land. As you go from the Rochel, to the place where you are to take Boat to cross over, they will show you the Ruins of that Digue, which Cardinal Richlieu caused make by sinking of Barks, loaden with Stones, to hinder all relief for the Town by Sea, and it was observable, that the very day after the Town surrendered, the Digue was broke down by Storm, which if it had done but three days sooner, it may be justly questioned whether the Town had ever been taken, especially seeing the English Fleet was riding before the Isle of Re.  
In the Isle of Re, there is a Citadale, near to which you will be put a Shore upon the Island, but it is not usual to permit Strangers to enter into it. At the east end of the Island, there is a little Town called St, Martin's, in which there are many Dutch Families, because of the great traffic the Dutch hath with this place, for Salt and white-Wines. The Island is generally of a Sandie Soil, and only made fertile by the Sea- Ware which they throw upon it, and which in my Opinion is the cause, that all the Wines both of the Island and about the Rochel taste brackish, especially when they begin to be old. You will find amongst other Plants upon the Island abundance of Pancratium, except you come in the latter Season of the Year, when probably it may not be found. You may return at Night to the Rochel, from whence you have a Messenger to Paris, upon the way to which there is nothing that I need to trouble you with, except Poitiers, that I have not seen myself, and therefore can say nothing of; From Poicteirs your way is to Amboise midway betwixt Tours and Blois of which before.  
I must advertise you here, that if you please you may make this Tour an other way viz. To Nantes, as in the former advice concerning the Petit Tour, as far as Nantes, from thence to the Rochel, Bourdeaux, Toulouse, Narbonne, Montpellier, Avignion, and so all the rest throw Provence; and then back to Avignion, from whence to Lions, and so to Paris with the messenger, or coach, which you like best. For your better understanding in the Country, it will be fit to carry a Map, or Cart of France along with you, to look upon the situation of every place as you pass, for doing of which a little time will suffice once a day. Let it be illuminat for the more easy discerning the different counties and their bounding. You will do well likewise to carry a Book with you in 80. called Le Voyage de France, which will inform you of many particulars, that either were not at all seen and observed by me, or else have escaped my Memory; and indeed it is no great wonder if they have, having been so lazy as not to make any Memoire of them whilst they were yet recent in my mind. And this is one Reason of the tumultuarinesse and disorder of this Letter, but I am well pleased to think, that by the amendments you will make both in seeing, observing, and writing down all things more particularly, we shall have occasion afterward to put the Voyage in a better Dress; I must likeways beg your Pardon for not having written to you sooner, having been several times called out of Town since I began to write this Letter: If you find it tedious in reading, blame yourself for being the cause thereof, and be the more patiented, in regard I shall not have occasion to be any more so tedious, unless you go for Italy, and give me a timeous advice of your Intentions.  
I shall conclude all with my best wishes for your health & happy Return, & most earnestly entreat you not to grudge us with the effects of a Spare hour, that seeing at this distance, we cannot be so happy, as to enjoy you personally; we may at least by this next best way entertain a Correspondence, which I assure you will be a great Kindness to your Friends here, but to none so much as to myself who cannot be indifferent in any thing, that concerns you, And therefore cannot but be solicitous, to hear often from you, as the only thing, that can supply the want of your person, So much desired and longed for, by etc.   

LETTER III.  
CONTAINING Advice for Travelling into ITALY.  
Written to a Friend  
IT is much better to go into Italy in the latter end of Autumn, than in the Spring; Because the Change of the Air is not so much from one Extreme to another in that Season, as in the other; for the Mildness of the Winter in Italy (especially upon the South side of the Apennine) doth not so much recede from the Temperatness of Autumn in France, as the Heat of Summer in Italy exceeds the Mildness of the Spring in France. It is certain, that if a Man intent to stay but a half a Year, it is better to begin the Journey in Autumn, and finish it in the Spring, than to begin in the Spring, and finish it in Autumn, and so be obnoxious to the excessive Heats of Summer. If one intent to stay one or more Years, it is undoubtedly best to begin the Journey in Autumn, because the Winter, being much more clement than usually it falls out with us, will be easily supported, & all the Heat that happens in the following Summer, in regard it comes by degrees, will not so readily affect the Body, that hath been already enured to the Air of the climate, for some Time before.  
The most convenient way of making the Tower of Italy, (in my opinion) is to go through Provence to Cane, a small inconsiderable Town upon the Frontiers of Provence, and there to hire a Felluck to Genova, and, if you cannot get one at Cane, to go to Nize, which is but six or seven Leagues further, where you will be sure to find one; a Felluck is ordinarily of four Oars, and hath this advantage that you go in it Ter ' a Terre, that is so near the land, that in the case of any danger by Storm or otherwise, you may easily run on Shoar and escape it, and besides, land as often as there is any Town or other thing worthy the seeing, and likeways lie a Shoar every Night, at some good Town or other. A Felluck will serve to carry half a dozen of persons with ease, besides the Rowers: The Price is not fixed but more or less as the Fellucks happen to be more or fewer in number. Ours cost us about 11 or 12 Crowns, in regard there were but few at Cane, but you may chance to get one for 8, or 9 especially if ye be few in number and not much Baggage; You may provide every morning to take along with you, Wine and what Victuals you please, the rather because sometimes it will happen that you will have no conveniency of any Town about Midday, and therefore must Dine aboard Your Fellucke.  
The first thing You will meet with, worthy the taking notice of, is Nize, a City belonging to the Duke of Savoy, it lies near to the Sea side, at the very foot of the Alps, and hath a very strong Cittadale belonging thereto: some two miles from thence stands Villa Franca, one of the best Ports in Italy, it belongs likewise to the Duke of Savoy, and is guarded with two Castles, one whereof stands on the top of a Rock, upon which grows in great abundance the Ficus Indica. Some three miles farther upon the Coast stands the Town and Palace of Monaco, or Morgues, It is a Principality by itself, and hath very little land belonging to it: The place is strong standing upon a Rock, which is not accessible, save at the side where the Palace stands, and where it joins with the land, all the rest being compassed with the Sea. In the Palace they use to show 1. The Prince's Wairdrob, in which there is good store of Silver plate, and other Rich furniture, 2. Several rooms as Halls, Galleries, Chambers etc. well furnished with Hang, Cabinets, Pictures, etc. 3. A little Garden upon the top of the Rock, behind the Palace, made up of earth brought thither on purpose. At the foot of the Hill near the Town there are store of Carobe Trees, or Siliqua Dulcis, Bauhini in Pinnace.  
I must not omit to tell You that you must be sure at your first leaving of France in the last Town that You happen to be in, whither it be Cane or any other, to get a Certificate of your health and freedom from the Plague, as also of the freedom of that Town. There are persons appointed in every place for giving of such Bills, or Patents de Saint, as they call them. Their Subscriptions are known to the next Towns about, where you are to go, so that it is not easy to counterfeit, and besides it were very dangerous to do so; They are very scrupulous in this matter upon all the Coast of Liguria, for fear of contagion; So that when you arrive at any Town, before you go a shore, you must send one of your Boat-men, with your Certification to be shown to such as are appointed for those matters in that Place, who immediately upon the Sight of the Bill permit you, la Practica, that is Liberty to stay in the Town as long as you please, and do what you will. When you part from that, You must take a new Certificate to the next Place, and so of the Rest until you come at Ligorn, where this niceness will end.  
You must carry with you no Secret Weapon, as Dagger, Pocket Pistols, or the like: And this is general all over Italy, except only in the Kingdom of Naples, and States of Venice and Milan, where it is permitted to wear Daggers. At most Towns in Italy, You will be obliged to leave yonr Hulster-Pistols, and sometimes your Sword with the Guard at the Gate you enter in by: And then they will ask you, by what Gate you are to go out, and accordingly Your Arms will wait for you, which they will know to be yours, by the delivery of a Nick-stick given You as you enter, and which for that purpose, You must carefully keep. In most Places, Strangers are permitted to wear their Swords. Your Cloak-Bag likeways will be visited at every Town, to to see that there be no Customable Goods in it, and if there be any Books, you must give up a List of them to the Visitor, or Inquisitor appointed for that end, and he will Sign it with Order to let them pass, Providing, there be not Prohibited Book amongst them, For if there were any such, it would be Dangerons; yet there are ways enough to convey Books, or any other thing of whatsoever Nature, or Quality, from any Seaport, without any Danger, which you will easily understand, after your being a while in the Country.  
From Monaco you will easily reach Oneglia, which is at about twelve Miles distance, and about 5 Miles further Albenga, from thence you have seven Miles to N●li, & ten more to Savona, from whence there rests five Miles to Genova,  
All the Coast, of Liguria, from Nize to Genova, & some days Journey beyond Genova towards Ligorn, is nothing but rude Alps, for the most part infertile and unhabitable, except towards the Bottom near the Sea, where there are little Small Valleys here and there, both delicious and Fruitful. For the rest it is wonderful to see with what industry & trouble, they have been able to place little small Villages, as it were in the Clefts of the Hills, and Plant Olive Trees, where one would think nothing but crows could venture to Big. All this Tract is extremely hot, especially in Summer, being directly opposite to the South, and altogether guarded from the North, So that the reflection of the Sun beams, makes a Heat almost insupportable.  
Genova la Superba, so called from the sumptuousness of its Buildings, and so they use to give other epithets to other Towns, as Roma la Saneta, Fiorenza la Bella, Bolognia la Grassa, Milan la Dotta, Venetia la Rieta, etc. It is said that Genova has Montagnie senza legno, Mare senze pesce, Donne senza Vergonia, & Gente senza sede. It is a Republic & the Government administered by a Senate. It is a City of great Trade and very Rich, and it is said they account usury no great Sin: It being their Maxim, that Cento per Cento e Niente, Cento Cinquanto per Cinto e quelcha cosa, du Cento per Cento e quadagnio Hone●io. You may take notice in the Place; First, of the Situation of the Town, and so you may Herbarize towards the Westside. 2ly. The Senate House, 3ly. The Churches, and particularly that of St. Lorenzo, which is the Cathedral, a Stately Fabric Crusted with Marble. 4ly. That famous Street, called la Strada Nova, which is composed of so many Palaces, most of them of Marble: you must by all means endeavour to see the most considerable Palaces. Within you will find them most delicately Adorned with all sorts of fine Things, as Statues, Paintings, etc. You must also see their Gardens, where besides several sorts of Flowers, Shrubs, and Trees, you will likeways find delicate Fountains, Fishponds, and Grottoes; as particularly in the Palace of the Principe d'Oria; I would likeways have you see the Palace of Signior Baldi, and some other Houses of Pleasure especially towards the Seaport, where they stand at the foot of the Hill over looking one another as they mount in degrees in form of a Theatre, and all of them having a full view of the Seaport, which is very spacious and very deep; but in my Opinion, not so very well guarded from storms. That which I find most considerable in it is, the Mole, which secures the entry thereof, it being the best and strongest and in the deepest Water I ever saw. At the east end of the port there is a little Promontory called Capo de Fara, upon which stands a High Turret, which they call la Lanternâ, from the Top whereof they use to discover all Vessels at Sea at a considerable distance. 5ly. Forget not to visit the Booksellers, but in Regard this is a general Remark not to be omited, in every Town where there any, I shall say no more of it here, but shall put You in mind of it now and then.  
From Genova You must again provide Yourself of a Felluck to Ligorn, which you will find readier and at an easier rate, because of the more frequent Traffic and intercourse, than from Cane or Nize, you will pass by Porta Fino, Leresi, Viaregia, etc. and you will not find many things considerable more than I have already noted on the Coasts of Liguria betwixt Genova and Nize, except that when ye pass Leresi a little, you begin to discover a large plain, part of which belongs to the state of Genova, and therein are the Quarries that furnish all Italy with the best Marble, and the rest is the Principality of Massa; For the better seeing of which if you please you may go from Genova by Horse to Leghorn.  
Tuscany gins about Viaregia, the greatest part whereof is under the Dominion of the Great Duke of Tuscany.  
Ligorn is no ancient, but yet a very Handsome and well built City, by Ferdinand the first, Great DUKE of Tuscany, of whom you will see a most stately Statue or rather Colosse, with slaves Chained at his Feet, on each side kneeling; a little without the Gate as you go to the Seaport. The Town is regularly fortified, they say, by the contrivance of the Duke of Northumberland, who was banished out of England in the Reign of Queen Eli●abeth, and well received and much esteemed by the then Duke of Tuscany, for his excellent parts and Qualifications. The Duke for encouragement of Trade hath granted great Immunities to Merchants of all Nations whatsomever, which is the great cause that the Town flourishes so much in Trade, and is so well Peopled: Several Nations have established great Factories here, but especially the English and Hollanders who have made this place, as it were the staple of all their commerce into the Levant. The Jews also have a very great freedom here and are not distinguished by any particular Mark, as in other places, from other Merchants, but live Honourably in a particular Street of the Town, built by themselves, yet not sequestrated from the rest of the Town by any Wall or Gate, as they use to be in all other places, where I have seen them. The English Merchants live very splendidly, and are very hospitable and courteous, especially, to their Countrymen, that Travel that way, under which name they comprehend all that are Subject to our King: The Jews Synagogue here is the best in Italy; and therefore worthy your seeing. They observe our Saturnday, so that if You please to stay, You may see their form of Worship. You must take particular notice of the Seaport, which is undoubtedly the most secure and finest in all Italy, in which You will see the great Duke's Galleys, which he kee●s for a Guard, to his Country against the Turks men of War. It is worth the while to see a Galley put out to Sea, or, as she comes in, for so one may see the Discipline of the Slaves to whom the Bosson delivers the word of Command by the noise of a Whistle, the diversity whereof they are as well acquainted with, as Horsemen with a Trumpet, or foot with a Drum. If You be diligent You may meet with several curiosities, some natural, some of Art, especially from the Levant, and all at reasonable Rates: and for the more commodious doing of this, it will be fitting to make acquaintance with several Merchants, especially English, who will either inform You themselves, where such things are to be found, or else address You to such Persons in the Town, as may best hap to do it. It is likeways necessary for You to have such acquaintance, and amongst them some one confident for returning You Money from England, or at least for returning You, what Money You have not present Use for, to Florence, as also for keeping correspondence with; that by this means, You may send any thing you please to Your confident at London. And because this advice may be useful in many other Places; I shall be more particular in it here for all. I suppose than You were to send any little Ball for Trunk from Leghorn to London; Your way would be first to pass it at the Custom house, where, I think Books, and curiosities pay nothing but yet You must have an Order for Shipping of them, than You must agree with some English Master of a Ship, bound for London, for the portage, and accordingly draw a Bill of Loading— which is of a common Style bearing, that such a Ball or Coffer marked,— (and sometimes it says, marked as on the Margin, and then the Mark whether it be Letters or Figures or both, which is put upon the Goods, is likeways placed upon the Margin of the Bill) is embarked This— Day of— and Year of God— aboard the good Ship called— now in the Port of Ligorn, and bound for London, whereof Mr:— under God is Master, the which Ball is consignable at London to Mr— Merchant etc. or bis Order, for which he is to Pay— English Money, he receiving the said Ball well conditioned, without Skaith or Damage, There must be three Copies of this Bill, one You must subscribe, and give to the Master of the Ship, for 〈◊〉 Warrant to carry his Fraught. The other two he must subscribe and give to You, whereof You must send one by Post with a particular Letter of advice, to Your correspondent at London, to warrant him to call for the Goods, at the Master of the Ship; and the other You must keep by You for Your own security, in case there should be any miscarriage, either through the Skipper, or Merchant's fault, and then Your Goods may be embarked. If You were to send from Florence, than you must in the like manner pass your Goods at the Custom-house; if there be any Books among them, You must have a particular Licence as I Noted formerly, and then cause unball them at the Custom-house, and set your Mark upon them, and find out some Boat going for Ligorn, (which you will be sure to do,) and take a Note under the Boat-Masters hand of the receipt of such Goods so marked, consignable to such a Ma●n Merchant in Ligorn, for which he is to pay so much Fraught, he receiving the Goods well conditioned. This Note you must send by the Post to your Merchant in Ligorn, together with Your acquittance at the Custom house of Florence, which will serve to acquit them at Ligorn; together also with particular advice to dispatch them by the first good occasion for London, and to take Bills of Loading for them, whereof you must desire one Copy to be sent to yourself, which you must keep for your Security, as said is; From Rome you must use the same conveyance to Ligorn: But from Venice you must address immediately for London, and in the same manner as from Ligorn. If you be to send any thing over Land, where you go not along yourself, you must make two Letters of Voiture (having first agreed for the carriage at the Rate of so much per Cent.) whereof you must give one to the carrier, which is a kind of advice to the Person you address your Goods to, which is in this form: suppose from Turine to Lions, you writ thus,  
Sir  
I have sent a Bundle marked— by— Indweller in this Town, and Carrier to Lions, addressed to You, which I desire you would be pleased to receive, and being in good condition, Pay for it at the Rate of— per Cent. and I shall hold you account thereof, or otherways place it to the account of— at Paris, to whom I desire you to address the Bundle and send it with the first good Occasion, and I shall be Accountable to him. The carrier will part from hence, such a Day being the— Day of— and will arrive at Lions the— Day thereafter, the Bundle contains no Merchant Goods, being only Books, etc. for my own Private use and therefore not Customable I rest.  
SIR, Yours &c.  
THe other Letter of Voiture is an Obligation under the carriers hand to You, which you must send by the Post to your correspondent at Lions. The Form of it ought to be as follows.  
I Under Subscribed Carrier of Turin, acknowledge to have received from— the— Day of— at Turin a Bundle Marked— Weighing— addressed to— Merchant of Lions to whom I promise to deliver it in good condition at Lions, (with the help of God) or to his Order, he paying me at the Rate of— per Cent. therefore. In witness whereof I have subscribed their presents with my hand at Turin the— Day of— Anno—  
I Have been the more particular in these things, because altho' they may seem to be trifles, to those that are conversant in such matters, yet a small mistake, may be the occasion of a great Miscarriage. I shall now return to put You in mind of some other particulars, and 1. That in this Place, Oysters are a very great delicate, there being but one person that has Privilege to sell them, for which he pays a considerable Sum to the great Duke; I know not well from whence they are brought, but I am sure it is from a considerable Distance: They are kept in the Town-Ditch, on the East side of the Town, which is full of salt water, because it hath communion with the Sea; the keeper hath a little House hard by, and according to the number Bargained for, takes them alive & very fat out of the Ditch, & sells them at the Rate of a Pistol the Hundred. They are many times put into the Ditch little, and kept until they be big enough, they taste very well, and are by far the best in Italy. 2. To the Eastward of the Town, about a Mile or little more, there is an Hill called Monte Nero, upon which there is good harbarizing. You will do well to take a Horse and a Guide with you to the Place. From Ligorn you have 15 Miles of Smooth and Plain way to  
Pisa. It is an Ancient City, sometimes a commonwealth by itself, and then both Rich and populous: But since it was Reduced under the command of the great Duke of Tuscany, it is neither of the two; the far greater part of the Inhabitants, after the Town was Reduced, choosing rather to abandon their Native Country, than their Liberty, or at least preferring a voluntar Subjection abroad, to a necessitated Slavery at home. The City is large and Beautiful, divided, as it were in two by the River Arno, and again conjoined by a beautiful Bridge, of white Marble. The Air of this Place, in Winter, is judged to be more Temperate than that at Florence, & therefore the great Duke uses to pass the Winter here. There are many things considerable in this Town; as, 1st. The great Church, which is a Stately Fabric, and well adorned within, as also the Batistaria whereof the Doors, as also of the great Church, are all covered with Massive Brass, cast into delicate Figures. 2ly. The crooked Steeple, which leans to one side very far from the perpendicular; some people allege it was purposely so built, but I am more apt to believe that the ground hath miss-given on the one side by little and little, or rather insensibly, which may be some part of the Reason, why it hath hung together so long without falling, to which the excellency of the Cement and Workmanship hath contributed very much; my opinion, to one that narrowly observes, will not appear to be unreasonable, for the outside is of so many Rows of small Pillars going round about, and the lower-most Row, on that side that it leans to, is more than half hid in the ground, where as those of the other are wholly to be seen; which I suppose could not have happened otherways, than as I have said. 3ly. The Burial Place, which is the most stately I ever saw, being a long quadrangle, well walled and galleried about, in the middle whereof are very many Monuments of great antiquity, of many of the ancient noble Families of Pisa. They are most of them of white Marble in shape like a Coffin, wherein the Body of the Dead persons was laid: Some of them are carved in one Fashion and some of them in another, and some of them into excellent Figures. 4ly The Duke's Palace. 5ly. The Physical Garden, together with the Rarities that are kept in a Gallery belonging to the Garden, where you will see a very great Collection of Natural Curiosities. The Garden uses to have very rare exotic Plants; but in regard you can have no access to it, except by the recommendation of the Physician, that is Professor of Botany for the time, therefore I think it will be worth your while to make your address to him, for a Liberty, first, to see the Garden and Gallery; secondly, to get from the Gardener or himself, the Seeds, of such as you have a mind to, and a Piece of the Plant for drying, if you think fitting; you must not be negligent here, for this is one of the best Gardens in Italy, & in my opinion preferable to that of Milan, especially for exotic Plants. The University, for the whole Estate of Tuscany, is keeped here, and if you please you may see the Schools for all Professions, and particularly that for the Laws, where the most renowned Bartholus did teach. Amongst the Booksellers you may find something to accommodat you, because it is an University Town, and I shall tell you here, because I do not remember to have it done as yet, that, generally speaking, all sort of Books in Italy, are cheaper than in any other place where I have been. I pray You remember to get a Couple of the Catalogues of the Garden there, of the last Edition.  
From Pisa, You have but a small half days Journey, of very pleasant Way, to Luca, which is a delicate little Town, a Republic by itself, and having but a very small Territory belonging to it; it is well and regularly fortified with a dry Ditch, which is kept very clean and in good Order, and always Green: the Republic is governed by a Prince or Chief Magistrate, whom they choose of their own Town, and change him every two Month: So soon as any one is chosen, he must leave his own House and Friends, and retire himself to the Public Palace, where he is assisted by some other of the Nobles, & cannot come out until his Government be finished.  
The Humour of the people is Cheerful and very Civil, and contrary to the Custom of all Italy, Men and Women converse freely amongst themselves or with Strangers. They use Balls & Danceing, much after the French Fashion; The Religious people use to distil Spirits and Essences, whereof you may provide what Quantity you please, both good, and good cheap, I wish you might help a Friend to some of Orange-Flowers and Myrtles; The religious Women likeways use to make very pretty Things, and particularly I remember they use to sell Stomagers of quilted Silk, which most people use to wear in the Wintertime, of one Fashion or another.  
From Luca, if you please, you may go to Pisloia, and so to Florence, or otherways return to Pisa, and from thence, either by Coach or Horse, to Florene. If the Wether be not too hot, it is better to go on Horseback, in regard of the prospect of the Country, which cannot be had in a Coach. Florence is a new Town, but one of the most beautiful in all Italy, and therefore called Fioren● a la Bella; it is situated upon the River Arno, which divides it in two sev●rall places, over which stands four fair Bridges. The City is Counted at least six miles in Compass; The Beauty of it consists in the Stateliness of the Buildings, the great number of Palaces, the neateness and cleanness of the Streets, occasioned by the largeness and smoothness of the Stones, with which it is paved; the many large Places, Fountains, Statues, Churches, Towers, Convents & Gardens; Of all which it hath very many of the best in Italy. There is scarce any thing in this City; which is not very well worthy to be taken notice of▪ but particularly. 1. The Duke's two Palaces, the Old and the New; In the new the great Duke himself keeps his Court. It is a ●ost magnificent Structure, o● the T●scan Order of Architecture, but not finished as yet; The Garden belonging thereto is very well furnished, with Rare Plants and Flowers; of which the Catalogue is Printed, of which I desire You to bring alongs a Couple of Copies. It will not be a miss to make Acquaintance with the Gardener; for, so you will get what Seeds you please. The old Palace stands in the great Place of the City, in the middle of which Place there is a Stately Colossus of Brass, of Cosmus great Duke of Florence a Horse back, by the Model whereof that of Henry the great upon the new Bridge of Paris was made. Near to the Entry into the Palace there are several other Noble Statues of Marble: within the Palace itself is that so much famed, over the World, Gallery, which is composed of many Rooms, containing great Variety of the choicest Curiosities; as Statues, Busta's, Baserelieves, Paintings, Drawings, Prints, Cabinets, Jewels, Cameo's, Intaillia's, with all sorts of Anticailles, with an infinite number of Masterpieces of latter times. Amongst other things, there is a Chamber or two full of all sorts of Arms, amongst which those of Charles the Great and Roland, with several Swords of Henry the great, also a great Number of Cymiters, some whereof have their Scabbards set with Rubies, Emeralds, and other precious Stones. There is an ancient Buckler with a Medusa's Head, Painted by Michael Angelo bona rota. I remember to have observed some ancient Casaques, whose weight I am confident no Head could sustain, unless so adjusted to the rest of the Armour, and that to the Saddle, that the Horse must have carried all. You must endeavour to get a Writen Inventure of the several Curiosities in the Gallery, for without that it is not possible to remember every particular; Within this Palace, the great Duke uses to keep the most excellent Artisans he can meet with, of all Trades, to whom he gives considerable Salaries and Privileges, whom you will do well to see, but especially the Stone-Cutters, of whose Art I entreat you to take particular notice, and what Instruments they use, and learn at least as much of it as may serve to polish Stones. Amongst other Curiosities of this Trade, You may see a New way of Mosaic Work, wherein the figure is completed most delicately, both as to the parts and Colours thereof, by the Natural Colours of the several pieces of Stones assembled together; and which is strange, all the lights and shadows requisite in Painting is herein observed; So that they can imitate Nature almost as fully this way as in Painting itself. This way differs from the old Mosaic, in that the particular Pieces that compose it, are of different Figures according as the colours require; for example, a Cherry because it is all of one Colour, therefore it may be represented by a Red stone of a round Figure in one Piece, but the Stalk of it must be of an other different figure: But in the old way, all the pieces were Quadrangular, whatsoever might be the colour or thing to be represented, and of this kind of Mosaic you will see a most excellent Piece in St. Peter's Church at Rome, representing St. Michael the Archangel treading upon the Devil. In this Palace likeways, the great Duke keeps a Chemical laboratory, called la Funderia, wherein are made very many notable preparations with great Faithfulness, especially Spirits and Essences, which may be bought here at reasonable Rates, and without fear of being cheated, as to the goodness of the things, 2ly. Several Churches and Convents, particularly the Dome the outside whereof is the most beautiful in Europe, being all crusted with Black. White and Red Marble, fit●y placed together in regular figures. The Church within is Paved with black and white Marble, and Richly adorned with Chapels and Altars; The Cupola is very Large and Fine insomuch that the Golden Ball upon the Top of it, which is able to contain a great many Persons, does not appear from the Ground to be bigger than a good Foot-Bal; Near to the Dome stands Jota's Tower, one of the most admirable Pieces of Architecture, in the World; being a square Steeple, without any spite on the Top of it, all crusted with black, white and red Marble, in most regular figures from the top to the bottom; near to it stands the round Chapel of St. John delicately paid with Marble, and adorned with statues, with a Rich Vase adorned with precious Stones, wherein the Children are Baptised. The Doors of the Chapel are of Brass, all in Figures of personage in Base-relieve of most admirable Workmanship; in this Chapel is the Sepulchre of Jota, that renowned Painter and Architect, upon whom there are some excellent Latin verses there engraven, which I have lost, but ●o●mend to you to take a Copy thereof. In the Church of St. Spirito; there is an Altar ha●cost above a Hundred Thousand Crowns, which were left by a Florentin Gentleman for that effect. In the Church de Sancta Cr●ce, (I h●ve forgot whether i● belongs to the 〈◊〉 or Ja●obi●●;) Michael Ang●●o bona rota i● interred, and it is said at his own desire, that he might lie within the View of Jota's Tower, which he did so much admire in his life-time; Upon his Tome there are three most delicate Statues, the one represents Painting; the second, Sculpture; the third Architecture: in which three Arts, he was so great a Master. St. Laurence Church was magnificently built by Cosmo de Medicis, whose Scpulchre is to be seen there. There is that famous Chapel, which the Dukes continually Labour to Finish. It is the most Glorious thing extant in the World, there being already bestowed upon the Workmanship thereof above eight Millions of Gold, and I believe a considerable deal more will not perfect it. It is not very large, but built round; it is all Mosaik, both the Floor, roof and sides; and the least considerable Stones that compose it, are Jasper, Porphir, Alabaster, Lapis Lazuli etc. there are several nests in the Wall about, where the statues of the Dukes are to stand as they lived and succeeded to the another. The Great Altar is not yet set up, because of people's being still at work in the Chapel, nor is it yet altogether finished, but yet there is so much done, that to look upon it, one should hardly think there were any thing wanting. It is kept in the Duke's Wardrobe in the Old Palace, of which I forgot to speak formerly, and therefore tell You now that it is one part of the old Palace which You must not fail to see, there being in it a vast Treasure of Silver and Gold Plate, with many other Precious things. The Altar is kept in a little Room by itself, I shall not under-take to descrive it particularly, but only desire You to consider well every part of it, the Richness of the Materials and excellency of the Workmanship, the Mosaicks, and the Crystal Pillars, and I believe You will easily excuse my holding by the general, and omitting to speak of particulars: I do truly think that the beauties and excellencies of this Chapel and Altar, are so great and so many, that they Deserve a Particular Book to make them known to the world, and it may be there is some such work intended, or already extant, which if it be I am confident You will take care to have it.  
I must give You notice in this Place, that You will do well to Treat with some of those men that Work about the Chapel, or else with some of those stone-cutters in the Gallery for some small Pieces of all the species of stones; let them be of such a Bigness as may easily serve to know them by. I make no doubt but You may get them at a Reasonable Rate. But I must earnestly entreat You to mind those two Species of stones which are found in Quarries not far from Florence, whereof the one Naturally represents Towns and Landscapes, the other is some what Whiter, and has Trees and Forests Represented on it, by little Black Draughts; I remember to have shown you a small Peice of each sort, but now I would have, two or three larger Pieces of both the sorts, of about a span-Length, and of the best Marked, for I intent to put them in frames, as a Chief ornament of my Tradescants. I shall hold You count for the price. 3. The Place where the wild Beasts are kept. It is a long square Piece of ground Walled about, and galleried on the Top for Spectators; under the galleries are little cells that open to the Place, in each of which there is kept a several Wild Beast, such as Lions, Tigers, Leopards, Wolveses, Bears, etc. These have their keeper that waits upon them, and Feeds them, and when the great Duke commands, they are brought out, one or more, as he Pleases, and bated with Dogs, or otherwise set to fight with one another, Upon such occasions strangers are Permitted to see. 4. The Booksellers; of which there are pretty store here and those well furnished too. You cannot miss of a Casalpinus de Plantis or two, for it was Printed in this Place. If You can get his appendix ad libros de Plantis, You will oblige me to bring it with You; it was Printed by itself at Rome. You may possibly meet with other good Books, for it is ordinar when Learned men die▪ for Booksellers to buy their Books. I must likeways put You in mind to buy a Printed Paper for me, that was Published at Florence, called Testis examinatus; it contains two or three figures of the Testicles with a short Description thereof, in one single leaf.  
There is one Dr. Kirton Dr. of Physic, He is a very civil and obliging Gentleman; If he be yet alive he will be Your Interpreter: and if You need not that, he will help You to expede the rest of Your affairs; in short, both his counsel and his company are to be esteemed; He is an English Man born, low in stature and pretty ancient.  
You must not fail in this Place to take notice, of the variety of Fruits, & Wines; as the Red Florence Wine, which is counted the best for ordinar Drinking, being stomachical and without Sweetness. The White Florence Wine, which is Sweet; Verdea, which is delicious small Sweet white Wine; Monte Pulciano, White and Red, both very good Wines, so called from the Place they grow upon, and many more such.  
If You happen to be here in the Summer time, especially when the Grapes are Ripe, You will find in the Markets great Variety of Fowls and small Birds, whereof I entreat You to take notice, but especially of those kinds, that are not common with us, and try to get their Skins, which may be easily done, when the bird hath not been long Dead; the rump must be left at it for preserving of the Tail; The Head, Wings and Feet must be likewise left, and only the body taken out, & so the Skin filled with Flax or Cotton. This I entreat You to remember to do wheresoever You shall happen to be in the Summer time, and if any such occasion Present itself to You in Winter, not to ommit it.  
From Florence to Rome You have 140. Miles; there are several ways of Travelling, viz. by Coach, by Procaccio or Messenger with whom you agree for so much; as is usual in France: and by the Viturin, that is, by hiring of Horse at a certain Rate, & Paying for Your own entertainment at every part as you pass. If you be acquainted with the customs of the Country, and have Language enough to make Yourself understood, this last way is the best, because you will be sure to far better, and cost you no more, than you would otherwise Pay to the Messenger, who will be sure to provide the worst cheer for you, that he may make the better for himself: in short, it is best to be Master of your own Purse, and not live at the discretion of Your Conductor. I have forgot hitherto to tell you that there is some incommodity for Travellers upon the Road, as to their Bedding, their clothes espiecially, the Sheets being for the most part very nasty, and it is but now and then that either money or fair words can procure a Pair of clean Sheets. The best remedy I know is not to put off ones clothes, and to wrap one's self, especially the Head, in their Cloak, that the face and Hands may not touch any unclean thing; in short a little Patience will do it, and you will be sure to be better accommodated in good Towns.  
The places You are to pass by, are Chiefly these as follows.  

FLORENCE.  
S. Casciano 9 Miles  
Le Tavernelle 8 Miles  
Pogibonzo 5 Miles  
Staggia 4 Miles  
Sienna 9 Miles  
Montarone 5 Miles  
Lucignano 3 Miles  
Bonconvento 5 Miles  
Tornieri 5 Miles  
S. query 4 Miles  
La Scala 4 Miles  
Ricorso 4 Miles  
La Paglia 5 Miles  
Ponte Centino 9 Miles  
Acquapendente 2 Miles  
S. Lorenzo 3 Miles  
Bolsena 4 Miles  
Montefiascone 6 Miles  
Viterbo 8 Miles  
Ronciglione 10 Miles  
Monterosi 8 Miles  
Roma 20 Miles   
There are not many considerable things to be seen upon this Road; Sienna was a republic by itself, but was reduced by the Emperor Charles the 5th. and by his Son Philip Gifted to the Great Duke of Tuscany, under whose Power it still Remains. The Town is of a good bigness, and commended for its Situation, and the purity of the Italian Tongue. The Dome or great Church is a stately Fabric; it is Paved with Marble, but especially the Choir, upon which is most Curiously Graven the History of Abraham Sacrificeing his Son, and History of the Maccabees, and for the better Preservation of them they are covered with Mats. There is likewise an entry from the Church to the Bibliotheck of Aeneas Silvius, who was born in this Town. He was once Legate from the Pope into Scotland, and afterwards Created Pope himself, and took the name of Pius Secundus. He was a Man of great Learning. The late Pope Alexander VII. was Native of this Place, of the Family of Chigi; his Statue is to be seen in the great Church. The greatest Part of the and the Tower belonging to it are of Black and White Marble without. In the Church of St. Dominic, amongst other Relics, is preserved the Head of St. Catharine of Sienna. The Town is well watered with many fine Fountains. The great place is made with a kind of Descent Theatre ways, so that from the middle of the Place You may see all that walk in it. Montefiascone is famous for a most Delicious Kind of Muscatello Wine, which You must be sure to Tast. The Messenger uses to Dine without the Town, but you will be sure to far better and get better Wine within; There goes a story that a Germane killed himself in this Place with Drinking excessiuly of this Muscat. As you go from thence to Viterbo you will find a kind of Aspalathus, which I take to be Acacia altera Angularae. It grows as high as our Broom, and is plentiful enough, so that you will easily discover it.  
From Viterbo, all that distance to Rome is called the Campania of Rome, in which it is thought most dangerous to sleep in the Summer time, therefore if you fortune to travel it in Summer, whither to Rome or from it (the same is under stood of 40. Miles distance round about Rome) you must be sure not to sleep in the Campania, which you may easily avoid by Travelling in the night. when you arrive at Rome you must give up your name at the Port; your Country, the Place from which ●ou came last, and the house you go to Lodge at: and from thence you must go a la dogano, or to the Custom House, where your Cloak-bag must be Searched, and from thence to your lodging place, according to the Billet given ●ou at the Port, without which no House ●eeper dare receive a stranger; But they ●re things of Course and effectuate without any trouble. You will do well to Lodge in a Pension for the first week, until you have made some acquaintance, by means whereof you may be fully informed where to light upon a convenient Camera locanda: There was two French Pensions, and one English in my time. The first of the French was All monte d'oro. The second was nella strada del Populo The English pension was in the same strada del Populo, alla villa di Londra: we had several Country men living in the Town in my time, as particularly signior Roberto Pendrick, a worthy old Gentleman, and most obliging to his Country men, he was my particular good friend; and I make no doubt but you will find him so, for I hear he is still alive, and I wish he may be long so. He lives in a House of his own upon the Trivita di monte. There is an other called Signior done Gulielmo Lesly, He is Chaplain to Cardinal Carlo Barberino and lives nella Cancellaria. I dare be confident to give you this man for one of the most faithful Friends in the World, and one in whose goodness, prudence, Kindness, and good Conduct you may trust ten Thousand Lives: to be short you will find I am not mistaken, when I call him deliciae humani generis, for in all my life-time I never knew another like him, make it their whole work and study to find opportunities to oblige every Countryman according to his condition: The p●●r of them, with Food and Raiment and whatsoever else they may stand in need of, and all other men with continual offices of civility. By his means you will get to see many of these things I shall recommend to you hereafter. If I Know of your going to Italy in time, I shall have a Letter there before you. Your best convenience for Lodging and Diet will be a Camera Locanda. You may take it in that place of the town that suits best with your occasions, you will pay for it by the month, less or more according to the goodness of the Chamber and furniture thereof. As for your diet it will be dressed in the House, and you must tell at night what you Intent to eat next day, that they may provide it for you: As for the prices you cannot be easily Cheated, because as to that, most things are Regulated, And in the quantity it is not possible you should be overreached because all things are sold by weight. There are several Kind's of Bread used in this City, but that which is called Papaline is undoubtedly the best. There are likewise many sorts of Wines, some of them Galliardi or strong, as Greco, Muscatello di Saragosa, Lagrima etc. others are Legieri, or small, and they are many; the best for common use is Albano, which You may drink pure: and it is remarkable that there are but few places in Italy where Water may be Drunk safely, and because one may be mistaken in the choice, the best remedy is to Drink none at all. There are great variety of fruits according to the Seasons of the year, I shall only desire you to be cautious, and not to eat too much or too often of any, but especially, of Melons, Cucumbers, and the Malanzane, or mala insana, which are a Kind of Solanum Pomiferum. There are good store and Many Kind's of Fishes, especially Sea Fish, whereof the best are, Sols, il Pisce Capone etc. The Tunino is a great Fish as big as our Salmond, and Red like it, but harder and drier a great deal, the belly of it is very fat and they use to Salt and sell it in the Taverns, being sliced in small pieces upon a Trencher; Fresh Sturgeon is very common; Lobsters are much harder and worse to digest than ours: as for flesh's, Bufalo is only eaten by the Poorer sort of people; Beif which they call Vacina is good; Vitella campo reccia, or Hudron is good, but above all the Vitella mongana or sucking Veal. Lamb is worth nothing, nor Mutton either, which they call Castrato, and serves only to make Broth for Sick People; Kids are good. In the Wintertime there is is abundance of Sangliers or wild Boars, as also Porcepics. The Snow in that season, driving them from the Hills to the Valleys, where they are Killed by the Hunters. There is likeways great Variety of Fowl. There is none so common as Quails, at two seasons of the year, that is, the Spring when they come into Italy, and the latter end of Autumn, at which time they are much fatter and better when they go from it. It is said that they draw together to the Coast side, and there wait for the rest of their number a whole Month, and then at last, their Caravan being complete, they flee away nearer the Sun in a great cloud. The Pigione Sotto hanca are the biggest and fattest, and best for eating in the world: they are good in all seasons of the year. About the time of Vintage there are great Variety of small Birds, all very fat & good, and at easy Rates, amongst which the Ortolani, and Beccafiche are most esteemed.  
As for the things to be seen here, they are so many, and so considerable, that it would require a large Volume to describe them, and there are abundance of such Books extant, to which I refer you, and especially to one in 80. called L' Antichita di Roma di Andrea Fulvio: but you must not fail to get an Antiquario, who for a certain Sum of two or three Crowns will show you all the particular Antiquities and considerable places of the Town, and as for the fuller information of them your Book will serve you: I shall only hint at somethings worthy to be taken notice of; 1. The Court; that is, the Pope, Cardinals, Prelates, Monsigniorie etc. There are some great Holy days, when the Pope Celebrats' Mass in person; it will be sit to wait upon some of these occasions, for than you will see the Grandeur of the Court and the form of a Cavalcata, together with the Pope's ordinary Guards. 2. The Churches. 3. The Palaces; especially those of the Vatican, together with the Bibliotheck and Gardens of Belvidere, in which amongst other things take particular notice of the statue of Ly●aon with the Serpents wreathed about him; There is an other Garden also belonging to the Vatican, in which there are many exotic Plants, it was planted by the Pope's order, by Tobias Aldinus and is Kept still in reasonable good order; amongst other things you will find the Cameripses, or Camedactylus, of the bigness of a Low Tree and carrying Fruit; there is likewise a Grotta or water work, and very fine Fountains of water, about which grows plentifully the Capillus veneris Major or Ramosus. and Arum Aegyptium Mathioli, sive Colocasia, which is a plant carrying no stalk, flower nor fruit in Italy (I know not what it does in its native Soil) but only broad Leaves very large and round.  
The Palace of Farnese; and in it that Gallery whereof the Painting in Fresco by Aniball Caraccio is so famous, and the Tauro which is kept in a little House a part, in the back court of the Palace. It is the noblest piece of Art extant in Rome although it be very ancient, as being one of those named by Pliny, to have been in his time in Foro Trajani; yet it is not only entire, but as beautiful as if it had never been moved out of the place it stands in now.  
The Palace of Principe Pamphilio; it stands in the Piazza Navona, where you may take notice of that Glorious Fountain made by cavalier Bernini, whereupon the top of a little artificial Rock, are placed, four great delicate Marble Statues, representing the four great Rivers of the World, and each of them pouring out of a Vale placed under one Arm, a great quantity of Water, and in the middle of the four there stands one of these Gulias' graven with Egyptian Hieroglyphics, brought from A●gypt by the Ancient Romans. They use to stop the way-goe of the Water, sometimes in the Summer, and let the Place overflow with Water, and then People come toward the evening, in their Coaches, and drive softly up and down the water to take the fresco, which is one of the greatest Gusto's in Rome.  
Palazzo Borghese, Standing near to the Ripetta. Palazza Palistrino; and in it the library, where you may see two copies of the Hortus Eystetensis, one illuminated and the other not; Mr. Lesty will command you a sight of that when you please, for it belongs to Cardinal Francisco Barberino.  
The Pope's Palace of Monte Cavallo, and the Gardens thereof. 4. The Villas: as first that of Borghese, which is without the walls: there is a particular Book to be sold by the House keeper, that sufficiently descrives it and all the beauties of it, to which I Refer you. 2ly. the villa or Palazzo medici, belonging to the great Duke of Tuscany. It stands upon the monte Trinita, the Hall is adorned with a great many Pillars standing about the Walls, of most delicate Marbles, and the Originals of a great many Illustres and virtuosos. In one of the Chambers there is a most beautiful statue of Venus, of Grecian Antiquity. In the Garden there is a Noble statue of Cleopatra, the Ruins whereof were repared by Michael Angelo bona rota, and many other statues Base Releiv's and Vases, which for Brevity's sake I must omit, and refer you to the particular Books that treat of those things, But most of all to your own diligence in viewing them and keeping a punctual Register of all that you see, and so I shall only name some of the Villas that remain, and are most considerable. As the Villa Montalto; The Villa Ludovisi, where amongst other Admirable things the statue of the dying Gladiator is excellent. The Villa Farnesi; The Villa Pamphilio, which is a pretty way without the walls, and the rest which I leave to your sight.  
5ly. The Castle of St. Angelo, which formerly was the Burial Place of Hadrian the Emperor. 6. The Hospitals; Particularly that of St. Spirito, which is a most magnificent Structure, and well appointed in all things. They will show you amongst other remarkable things, the Place where the Children of such a Bigness are permitted to be put in, without any further inquiry made after them, or who brought them. By this means the Life of many a Child hath been saved, which otherways would have been taken away to prevent the disgrace of the Parents. They are no sooner put in, but Nurses are got for them: If they be Boys, when they come to a convenient Age they are put to Trades, according ro their several Inclinations and Capacities. But if they be Girls, then when they come to the Years of discretion, if they incline not to a Religious Life, every one of them is provided with so much Portion to Marry her with, out of the common revenue of the House; And then upon a certain Day appointed for that purpose; all Zitelle or maids come in Procession, one after another, with their Faces Veiled, and the Men that come there upon such Days, of purpose to choose a Wife, (for all of them have a like Portions) pitch upon such as please them best, and present them a Nosegay, after which, she is sequestered from the rest, & the Marriage Solemnised, after the Man has given Information of himself and sufficient Caution that he shall provide a Livelihood for her. There is a very fine little Garden that belongs to the Hospital lying just upon the Tiber. It uses to be well furnished with Plants, and I have seen the Dictamnus Creticus in flower there. 7ly. The Convents; as particularly the French Minims upon the Monte Trinita. In the upper Gallery of their Cloister there is a Dial, where the Sun beams, entering by a small round hole, Point the Hours. It was made by Marsennus that famous Mathematician, a Father of their Country and Order. They have likeways, in a particular part of their Garden some rare Plants, as Malus punica flore amplissimo pleno & Variegato.  
The Minerva; which was anciently the Temple of Minerva, and now is the Chief Convent of the Domini●ans in Rome. In my time there was a French Father there called Padre Barilieri Secretary to the General for his Nation; He was a great Virtuoso, and exceedingly well versed in the whole History of Nature; He had a very Curious Collection of many Natural Things, and was about to have Published a Large Book in Folio, wherein he had designed a Natural History, with a great many cuts, which he showed me. If the Book be Published, I should be very glad to see it; if he be alive, it will be worth your while to procure his acquaintance. He hath also a Garden well stored with Plants at St. Xisto.  
The Roman College; where there is a famous shop and laboratory for pharmacy, as also a Garden.  
8ly. The Capitol; the middle of the Place before it, is the Statue of the Emperor Marcus Aurelius, a Horseback in Brass; It was brought thither from the Place before St. John de Lateran, and is thought one of the best Models in the World. At the Top of the Stairs, as you enter into the place are two Horses, one on every side held by a Slave in Marble. They were brought thither from the Ruins of Pompey's Theatre. There is also in the same Place two Trophies of Marius; there is also Columna milliaris, with a Brass-ball on the Top of it; there used to be such a one at every miles end, upon the common Roads; & from thence came their Fashion of counting the miles per Lapides, as primo ab urbe Lapide was a mile from the Town etc. The Capitol, as it now is, consists of three Palaces all of Excellent Architecture, and beautified, both within and without with Painting, Statues, and other Monuments of antiquity; the particular Relation whereof I refer to the Books that are written thereof, and particularly to one called Roma antica & Moderna, & to the particular demonstration of the Antiquario, for I find it will be utterly impossible to discourse of every particular, unless I should resolve to compile a Volumn.  
The rest of the Monuments, and rests or rather ruins of Antiquity, I shall pass over, and only name a few of them; as for example, first, the Walls of the City, which were built by Bellisarius Captain of the Guards to Justinian the Emperor. The breaches have been repaired by several Popes. The Ports for the most part are the same they were anciently, only the Porta del populo was made a great deal more stately, at the first Entry of Chris●ina Queen of Sweden into Rome. There is a long courten of the Wall betwixt Porta del populo and Villa Borghese, under which it seems the Ground has misgiven, so that the Wall bendeth, & is therefore called Muro torto. Near to this place also, is the Burial Place delle Cortegiane, there being no Christian Burial or Holy Ground allowed to such people. There is good Herbarizing about the walls, especially on the outside, and particularly you will find a Plant there which is not common else where, at least that I have observed, viz. Sature●a Spicata sive Thymbra S. Juliani● 〈◊〉 Satureia vera Lobelii. Upon the Wall of the City, close by the Port of St. Paul● in via ostiensi; there is yet extant a Pyramid built of Marble, which was the Burial Place of C. Ces●ius Septemvir Epulonum. Secondly. The old Temples; whereof there are so many that it would be tedious to describe them all, I shall only name some, viz. The Pantheon now called Madonna della rotunda; It was built by Marcus Agrippa, Son-in law to Augustus Caesar, in Honour of all the Gods. It had the Fortune to escape almost totaly, the ruin, and fury, which the Goths & Vandals brought upon the Roman Empire and magnificence thereof. I admire the Roof of it, being so large and so flat without any Pillar, to support it, and although ' it be a Vault, it hath no nevilstone to bind it in the middle, but in place thereof a round hole so wide that it lights the whole Room abundantly, nor is there any other Window in the Fabric. The next thing I admire in it is ●he Doore-Cheeks and couple which is all of one Piece of white Marble. The Door opens in two leaves, very wide & very high, they were covered with Corinthian Brass, as was also the whole Roof, until the time of Vrban VIII. who took it off, and covered it with Lead as it now is, and made thereof the great Altar of St. Peter's, and some pieces of Ordinance, that are kept in the castle St. Angelo, as will testify a particular inscription at the side of the pantheon Door, made by the Pope's command. Upon this occasion was that Pasquinad; Quod non fecerunt Barbari, fecere Barberini. It has a most stately Portico before the Gate, of a great many large tall Pillars of Egyptian black and white speckled Marble; the descent into the Portico from the Street is of ten or twelve steps, but it is said, before the ruin of the City, that there was as great an ascent to it; whence it may be gathered, what an universal & great devastation of buildings must there have been to fill up so great a depth. And indeed it is observed, that when they have any occasion to dig, it is long before they come, in most places, to the terra Virgin, that is, which hath not formerly been broke upon: and when they are digging into old ruins, for Anticails (as they are continually doing in several places) they leave off when they come to the Terra Virgin. Before the Portico there is a large coffin, with its cover and supporters of Porphyre which they commonly call Agrippa's Tomb.  
Near to the entry of the Camp of Vacino, at the bottom of the back stairs that lead to the Capitol, there is a Chapel under ground, which was formerly the Prison of St. Peter and St. Paul, when they suffered for the Holy name of JESUS. It was then called Tullianum, according to that of Cicero; est locus in carcere quod Tullianum appellatur. The Temple of Saturn is hard by, which in ancient times was the Aerarium publicum, in which the Public Treasury was kept.  
Thirdly, the Amphitheatres; most part of which are Ruined, especially that which was built by Titus, now ●alled the Coliseo; by the part thereof that is standing you may abundantly Judge of the Magnificence of the whole, when it was extant. There is good Herborizing within it, and there is one Dominicus Pa●arolus that hath Written Catalogus Plantarum Amphitheatralium; with the rest of his works in ●0. Romae, apud ●ranciscum Monetam 1652. to which I refer You.  
Fourthly, the Aqueducts; of which the most part are ancient: when they come near to the City, they are conveyed under ground to several Fountains in the City, and some of them so deep, that it is Prodigious by what art they could have Pierced so deep, as for example, the Aqua Virgin, which is the sweetest and best for use in all Rome, is conducted so deep through the Monte Trinita, That in the French Minims Garden there is a descent of six or seven score steps to come at it. Amongst all the Fountains in Rome the most beautiful are in the Piazza Navona, in the Piazza St. Pietro, the Tre Fountane, &c,  
5ly The Thermae, or Baths; as the Thermae Diocletianae built by the Emperor Diocletian. It is said that ten thousand Christians were employed about this work, and all cruelly Massacred when they had finished it. It is now a Monastery of Carthusians, in whose common Garden I remember to have seen the Myrtus Buxifoliis. The ruins of Thermae Antonini Caracallae; they are situated ad Radicem Collis Aventinae. I have seen amongst these Ruins that kind of Capillary, which is called Hemionitis, and no where else that I Remember of.  
Sixthly the two Columns of Antoninus, and Tra●an Emperors; The Statue of St. Peter stands upon the Top of one, and that of St. Paul upon the other: Trajan was so well beloved of the People that to make a place, which in honour of him they called forum Trajani, in the middle of which this Column stands, they leveled a great Hill, of the precise height of the Column itself. Both the Columns are of white Marble, and all the out side Historified in base relieve, in a spiral line beginning at the bottom and ending at the top. That of Trajan hath the whole story of the Dacian War. There is a great Book in Folio of this Column, wherein all the figures are cut in Brass, and the Large description thereof added. I have forgot the Author's name, but I believe You will find the Book Al insegna di Parigi alla pace from Jacomo Rossi. where you will likewise find all other sorts of Prints and T●lledouces. The Column of Antoni●us▪ is 160 foot High and that of Trajan 128. Although they appear to be but small yet each of them hath a Staircase within, that leads to the Top. There are some others but less Considerable, as that which stands before St. Maria Majore, which was one of the Pillars of the Templum Pacis, brought hither by Paulus V. who placed a Brazen Statue of the Blessed Virgin upon the Top thereof. There is likewise not far from the same place a little Column with a Crucifix on the Top of it, erected in memory of the absolution given to Henry the iv King of France; In the Capitol likewise there are two viz. the Columna milliaris, of which already, and the Columna Rostrata, which you will see when you view the fine things within that part of the Capitol whi●h stands next to the River, where the Hill is most steep and was anciently called Tarpeia Rupes.  
Seventhly, the Triumphal Arches; as particularly that of Septimius Severus; That of Titus; and that of Constantine etc.  
Eighthly, the Bridges upon the River. Ninthly, the Obelisks; most part whereof are graven with Egyptian Hieroglyphics. The best of them is erected in the middle of the place before St. Peter's, upon the back of four Brazen Lions, and a large Pedestal of Marble. The next best is at the Porta dell Populo.  
Tenthly, the Septem Colles or Montes; upon which Rome is said to be built viz. Mons Capitolinus, Mons Palatinus, Mons Aventinus, Mons Celius, Mons Esquiline●s. (where the House of Virgil was and the Garden of Maecenas,) Mons Viminalis and Mons Quirinalis, called now Monte Cavallo where the Pope's Palace is.  
Eleventhly, some other Hills: as the Janicular, which is a Chain of Hills without the Walls in the Trans●evere. And the Mons Testaceus, which is nothing but a heap of broken earthen Pots and bricks; for in ancient times these were so much in use; and the Figuli or Tradesmen that made them, so numerous, that there was a necessity of appointing them a particular place, and that by public edict, for throwing the Rubbish of their Furnaces and the pot shards that broke in the Baking into, lest otherwise if it had been permitted to throw them into the River, it might have occasioned an ●nundation of the City. In process of time it grew to the bigness of the third part of a Mile in Compass, and a Hundred & Sixty foot in height. This Hill is within the Walls not far from the side of the River, as also Mons Vaticanus in Trans●evere, so called a Vaticiniis which used to be made there: The Palace of the Vatican stands upon it.  
Twelthly, Roma subterranea; commonly called the Catacombs, whereof Bosio hath written a large Volumn in Folio. There are two of them, both without the Walls. One of them is at St. Sebastion's Church. They are Caverns digged under ground in the form of a Town, that is, larger and lesser streets crossing one another, in some place lower so that You must be forced to stoop, but in others higher than a Man's height, and all along as you go upon the one Hand and the other, as thick as they can stand one by another, are holes or nests wherein were placed the bodies of the Dead, one by one, upright upon their feet, and so the nests Plastered over. The Bodies and relics of many Saints and Martyrs have been found here, and were known to be such by the Cross found upon their Sepulchers, with this Inscription Pro CHRISTO. You must take good lights and a good guide to conduct You, for some have mistaken their Way and never found an outgate. The Second, I need not describe it.  
There are several things about Rome worthy the taking notice of, as 1. Ponte mola a Bridge standing upon the Tevere; in Latin Anio, some two miles from the Town, before it joins with the Tiber. You go to it by the Port del Populo. It is considerable for its Antiquity. It was at this Bridge that Constantine the great vanquished Maxentius the Tyrant: There having appeared to him before the Battle, in the Firmament, a red Cross with these words in hoc Signo vinces. the story is Painted in fresco in the Palace of the vatican by a great Master, where You may see it and You will seldom miss Painters in the Room a Copying of it. 2. The City of Tivali, in Latin Tibur; by the way You will pass a little River, The Sulphureous and noisome smell whereof You will perceive at a Miles distance; it is of a whitish Colour as if meal were mingled with it; there is a white slimy Sulphureous substance adhering to the sides and bottom of it, which is soft whilst it is under Water, but being once dried becomes very hard, they use to make counterfeit comfits, & which they call comfits of Tivoli and use to Cheat People with them for sports sake. The River runs into the Tiverone and spoils the Water thereof, and in my Opinion, does much harm the Water of the Tiber itself, because the Tiverone joins with it before it come at the City of Rome. The Town is very ancient, having several marks of great Antiquity, as Sibylla's Temple, etc. close by the Town the River Teveron● falling from a great height over a Rock makes that famous Cascata so much talked of. It makes a horrid noise and continues frothy and working for a good way below the fall, and hath made a Million of meanders and strange figures in the Rock where it falls. A little below the fall there is a Bridge over it of a considerable height above the Water, where if You stand a while you will perceive a dew able to wet you, which arises from the fall of the Water after the River is fallen. Several parts of it are conveyed by aqueducts into the Town for several uses; as namely one part for the Brass works, where You may observe, that the Waeer blows the fire, not by moving the bellows (which is common) but by affording the Wind; an other part of it is carried to the Villa d' Este where there is a curious Palace and most curious Gardens with all sorts of Ingenious Water Works and other ornaments, as statues &c, belonging to Gardens. Amongst other things there are several Artificial Birds, that sing their natural Notes by the help of the Water. There is an Organ that plays sweetly, moved only by the Water, which also furnisheth it Wind. The Girandola is considerable, where the water rises in a gross Body very High, and the air being Artificially mixed therewith, makes a noise that exactly imitats Thunder. Tivoli is some eighteen or twenty Miles distant from Rome You may easily go from Rome and see all things considerable there, & return the same day to Rome, unless You please rather to go to Frescati, which is a most delicious little town about twelve Miles distant from Rome, standing upon the side of a Hill, from whence in clear weather You may easily discover Rome. The Place is beautified with many delicate Villas about it, amongst which the most considerable are, first, the Belvidere belonging now to the Principe Pamphilio, the water works whereof are esteemed the best in Italy: There is a Centaur that Winds a Horn by the help of the Water, with that Loudness, that it can be heard at six or seven Miles distance. There is a low Room which they call the Apollo, at the end of which Apollo sits upon the Top of an artificial Parnassus. with the nine Muses about him, he with his Harp, and they with their several Instruments of Music, which play by the help of the Water, which is convoyed under ground and is not seen within the Room. About the middle of the Room there is a little hole, out of which the Wind (occasioned by the motion of the Water underneath) coming forth, hath so much strength as to support a wooden Ball, of the bigness of a Tennes ball, at half a ell's distance and more from the floor, without ever letting it fall to the ground. 2ly. At half a miles distance from Frescati are the Ruins of Cicero's Tusculanum, and Lucullo's country House; as also a curious villa called monte Dragone, where the House is well adorned with Paintings, etc. and the Gardens with water works.  
3ly If You desire not to Return to Rome first, You may go directly from hence to Castello gondolfo, which is about ●ive miles distant from Frescati, and fourteen from Rome. It is a most delicious Country House of the Popes, To which he uses to retire some Months in the Summer, for the good Air's sake, it hes the Prospect of a most delicate lake, encompased with Hills, that are all shadowed with Trees, where amongst other pleasures you will not want that of Herbarizing.  
Being returned to Rome you may make another little Journey with your convenience to Ostia, which is some twelve miles distant from Rome down the River Tiber, it was of old the great Harbour for all the Ships and Galleys that belonged City and Empire, cut out as it seems by Art, but now through long neglect filled up and useless. Having seen all and dined, you may return before night to Rome; it will be fit you be at the pains to make another Journey to Caprarolla, one of the noblest Palaces in Italy, built by the famous Architect Vignoli, by order of Cardinal Alexander Farnese. It belongs to the Duke of Parma. It is distant from Rome Miles It is in figure, pentagone, having five very High and equal faces, with a Court perfectly round in the middle, as likewise are the Galleries and Corredor's about it. Morover there is almost as much lodging below ground as above. The Hang, Statues, Pictures, as also the Gardens, Fountains, and other embellishments, do well suit the magnificence of the Palace.  
Having seen Rome and the Places about it. It will be fit to make the Voyage of Naples. The Months of April and October are most convenient for this Journey, the heat being too great in Summer, and the Snow and Raine troublesome in Winter.  

From Rome to Naples.   
Miles.  Marin●, 
12  Velitre, 
08.  Sezza 
15  Biperno, 
04  Terrazina, 
10.  Portella, 
03.  Fondi, 
05.  Itri, 
05.  Mola. 
04.  Tragetto, 
10.   

Pass the River Garrigliano.  Sessa, 
07.  Carionole, 
04.  Capua, 
12.  Auersa, 
07.  Naples 
08.   
114.   
As You go out at the Port St. Gioua●ni, all along the Campania on every side of the Highway, You will meet with many Ruins of Ancient Burial-Places for several Miles from the City.  
Velitre; is an Ancient City of the Volsci, much famed also for the Parents of Octavius Augustus, who were Originaly of this Place. Upon the Way from Veletri to Sezza, upon the Hill-side under Sarninetta, there are some Ancient Ruins supposed to be the Tres Taberna●, of which St. Luke speaks in the 28. Chapter of the Acts of the Apostles.  
Sezza, formerly Setia; was much commended for its Wine, whence that of Juvenal.  — Tunc illa time cum pocula sum▪ Gemmata & lato Setinum ardebit in auro. 
Piperno; in Latin Privernum; and the Inhabitants Privernati; near to this Place, Iris Florentina, grows abundantly.  
Terracina; was Anciently called Auxur, in the Language of the Volsci, of whom this was the Metropolis. Strabo sayeth that it was called Trachina, quasi Aspera from the Rockiness of the Hill upon which it is Placed; altho' the Town be Ancient, it is not very considerable, it is the last Place of the Ecclesiastic Estate towards Naples; Passengers use to Dine here at a pitiful Inn without the Town, where there is no manner of Furniture, but Wood to make Fire: it not being secure for any Body to live in it, because of the Turks that often Land here, and take what they can meet with. When the People that keep the House see any Strangers Arrive, instantly they make Fire and bring Provision from the Town. The Sea comes very near to the Foot of the Hill where the Town stands, and on that side which is towards Naples, the Rock is precipitious, and betwixt it and the Sea, leaves but a very narrow and straight Passage, which one Man may Guard against a Hundred. Fondi is the first Town you meet with in the Kingdom of Naples; here you must give notice to the Officers appointed for that purpose of your intended Journey for Naples, and cause registrat your Name, together with the marks of your Horse, that he may be the better known when you return, to be the same that you brought along with you from Rome, or otherways you will not miss to be challenged upon your return, and stopped, until you can produce a Certificate that he is the very same you brought into the Kingdom with you. There being a General Prohibition, the observance whereof is Strictly looked to, against carrieing Horses or Mares out of the Kingdom, into any foreign part, lest the breed of them, which is esteemed amongst the best in Europe, should become common to other Nations. Notwithstanding of this severity, sometimes with credit, and sometimes with a little Money, a Man may obtain permission for the Transporting of one or more, either Horses or Mares.  
Mola, is one of the most pleasant places in the World; being close upon the Sea side, and but a little way from Gaieta, to which you may go either by Sea or Land. It is likeways hard by the ruins of the Ancient City Formiae, where Cicero had his Villa Formiana. The place abounds with many plants, and great Variety of the choicest Fruits; especially the Agrumi, such as Citrons, Oranges, Lemons &c, of all sorts.  
If ye please to go to Gaieta, it is worth the while: It stands at the extremity of of a Promontory or Tongue of Land that runs out into the Sea, from the main-Land about three miles, and by that means becomes peninsule, and formeth on the side towards Rome, betwixt it and Terracina, that Sinus Gaitanus, about twelve miles in length. The Town is pleasantly Situated and strongly. There is a great Rock hard by, which is rend from Top to Bottom, which they say, happened when the Saviour of the World Suffered upon the Cross. There is excellent Herbarizing all the way betwixt it and Mola.  
Trajetto is a Castle near the place where the Ancient City of Minturnae stood, where there is yet to be seen an Amphitheatre almost entire, and the remains of a great Aqueduct: It was amongst the Marshes near to Minturnae, that C. Marius did hid himself, when he fled from his Enemies; whence that of Juvenal, 
Exilium & carcer Minturnarumque Paludes,  
Et Mendicatus victa Carthagine Panis.   
You must pass at this place the River Garigliano, called Li●is Anciently.  
Capua, is a new City standing upon the side of the River Vulturnus, and some two miles from it, the Ruins of the Old famous Capua which in the Old Romans Time, was esteemed one of the most delicious Places in the World. There are yet Vestiges of the Gates of the City, of a Theatre, of a great many sumptuous Temples, Cisterns under ground, and a great many other things; that evidently show it to have been a magnificent City. The Country from Vulturnus to Naples, is called the Campania Felice, and is indeed the fertilest soil and bautifullest Country that my Eyes ever beheld.  
Aversa is a new City, extructed out of the Ruins of Atella, It is distant 8 Miles from Naples, and famed for a kind of Wine called Aspring.  
That way which leads from Rome to Naples, was Anciently called Via Appia, from Appius Claudius the Censor, who caused Pave this way from Rome, just to Capua. It gins at the Port now called St. Sebastian, but Anciently Porta Capena, from the Capenatis a people of Latium, to which that way did lead. The Via Appia is of that breadth that one Chariot may easily pass another. The Emperor Trajan did renew it, and continue the Pavement even to Brindici, drying the marshes, plaining the Hills, and filling up the Valleys. By this way Anciently did pass the greatest part of the Triumphs; whence it was called Regina viarum: whence that of Papinius;  
Appia cunctarum fertur Regina viarum.  
Although this way be Ruined in many places, yet it is wonderful to see, in how great perfection a great deal of it continues. Without doubt it has been a matter of vast Expense to make a way of that Length, and Breadth so well paved, with Quadrangular Stones, that even to this Day (altho' it be of common & frequent Passage) continueth as entire as if it were newly done. Upon both sides of this way, as far as Capua, there are a great many Ancient Sepulchers; many whereof are altogether ruined, and some almost entire, as yet; in one of these Sepulchers, in the Reign of Alexander VI (as Volateranus tells) the Body of a delicate young Woman, was found altogether entire in a Marble Chest. She was of incomparable beauty having her long Flaxen Hair drawn together upon her Head with a Circle of Gold. The Body did almost swim in a mervellous kind of Liquor and had a burning Lamp at the Feet thereof, which the Air, coming in at the opening of the Sepulchre, did instantly extinguish. The Body (as did appear by the Letters graven upon the place) had lain there thirteen Hundred Years. Some have been of Opinion that it was the Body of Tulliola, the dearly Beloved Daughter of Cicero. It was presented in its integrity to the Conservators of Rome, and for some Days kept in the Capitol as a singular curiosity; but Pope Alexd coming to understand it, caused it to be thrown into the Tiber.  
I must not omit to tell you, that there is some incommodity in this Journey both as to dieting and Lodging; and sometimes there is peril from the Banditi; But he that will gather Roses, must not be afraid to prick his Fingers: Besides, that danger is but sometimes, and you may probably find the way clear, especially, if the Viceroy be a stirring Active Man, as it often happens: For then the Banditi will hardly dare to come so far down from the Hills▪ as the Via appia, or Highway to Naples.  
Naples was Anciently called Parthenope, from one of the Sirens, Buried in this place, (who as the Fables say) Drowned herself for Grief, that She could not Charm Ulysses and his Companions. Hence Silius lib: 12.  

Sirenum dedit una tuum memorab●●● nomen.  
Parthenope muris Acheloias', aequore cujus  
Regnavere d●l cantus, cum dulce per undas,  
Exitium miseris caneret non Prospera nautis.  It was built Closs upon the Sea, at the foot of most pleasant Hills; First built by the Cumani or Inhabitants of Cuma; who being taken with the sweetness of the Air & Pleasantness of the Place; did daily increase in number; insomuch that the Cumani that lived at Cuma, took a Resolution utterly to Ruin Parthen●pe ●east their own City should become deso●at. But it being Ruined, there came so great a Pestilence upon Cuma, as carried away Multitudes, and having consulted the Oracle about the cause of this Mortality; it was answered that this fate had come upon them for the Ruin of Parthenope; and that if they ever hoped to be free from this disease, they should first restore it, whence with all diligence they went about the Restauration thereof, and called it Neapolis, that is to say the new City. The sweetness of the Air, & delicacy of the Country about is so great, that many Emperors and Roman Senators being wearied with the Wars, and weightiness of Government, did repair to this place, that they might live pleasantly & Peaceably, & give themselves to the Study of Letters; amongst which were Virgil, T. Livius, Horatius, Claudianus ● & a great many more: At this very present it is no less frequented by the Nobility and Gentry of the whole Kingdom, who for the most part have their own Palaces and pass the greatest part of the Year here; so that for Nobility and Gentry there are few Cities in the World more considerable than this. I think it is for this Reason, that it is commonly called Napoli la Gentile: Nor is it to be passed by, that it gives name to a Kingdom; which is not very Ordinary.  
The City is big and sumptuously built from the Sea to these pleasant Hills about it. It is very well fortified with strong Walls & Castles, especially since the days of Charles V. who built the Castle of St. Elm and called it la Brilia, that is, Bridle; intending to make it so, to the mutinous Humour of that people, and it may be alluding to the Arms of the City, which is an unbridled Horse; the exact emblem of the disposition of that people, as witness the innumerable Tumults and revolts both of old and late Years made by them. I confess there is no small occasion given them by the severe domination of Strangers over them; and it is strange that having so many brave and valorous Men amongst them, they should more readily agree to submit their necks to the Yoke of a Stranger, than to the sweet Sceptre of a Native of their own number and Nation. It is thought the great emulation, (which the Spaniards as wisely, as industriously keep up to the height) amongst the Princes, who are but too numerous for the extent of the Kingdom, is the great cause of their unhappiness.  
You may take notice of these particulars within the Town. 1ly. The Churches; of which this City hath a greater number, than any other of its bigness in Europe. Amongst the rest, that of the Annunciata, is so Rich; that the Rent of the Hospital thereof is capable to entertain, 5000 Poor, part whereof are Children found. St. Chiana, together with the monastery of Nuns consisting of 400 with as many servants, is very glorious; It was Built by Agnes of Spain Queen to King Robert. There are many curious Sepulchers to be seen here of Kings, Queens, and their Children. In the Church of St. Dominico is to be seen the Image of the Crucifix, that said to St. Thomas Aquinas; bene scripsisti do me▪ Thoma. In the Church of the Frat● di monte Oliveto, the true Pictures of Ferdinand, the first and the second; and Alfonsus the First; both Kings of Naples, are so Admirably well done that they seem to be living. There is likewise Buried here Alexander ab Alexandro, who composed that learned work Genialium dierum. The Church called the Domo, hath a Chapel composed of Marble, Jasper, Gold and Brass; wherein is kept the Head of St. Gennaro, and a little Phiole of his Blood all together fixed, which being approached to the Head of the St. ●immediatly gins to boyll, dissolves and becomes clear. The most ancient of all the Churches is that of St. Paul, kept now by the Jesuits; It was formerly the Temple of Castor and Pollux.  
2. The Religious Houses or Convents; of which there are so great a number, that the Dominicans alone have seventeen. The Chartrous convent stands upon the Hill, a little beneath the Castle St. Elm● ' It hath the pleasantest Situation that I ever beheld; one may discover from it the whole City and Suburbs of Naples, a great part of the Campania Felice, the monte Vesuvio, all the Bay of Naples, the Island of Capri, the Hill Posilipo, Puteoli, Baii, Cuma, etc. The Cloister of the convent is all of white Marble, and in short, both the Church and whole Convent are altogether Magnificent.  
3ly. The Hospitals; which are about twelve in number; amongst which, that of the Annunciata and of the Incueabili are the most considerable. It is said that they Mary 665. Maids every Year, and the least portion they give with any is 24 Ducats, and the greatest 300.  
4ly. The Castles; of which there are 4. The Castle d'Ovo stands within the Sea upon a Rock, built of an Oval Figure by Willam III. a Norman. The Castle Nov● was built by Charles the first, Brother to St. Lewes, but it was Ferdinand of Arragon that fortified it so well. It is of a quadrangular figure, Built of polished Stone as hard as Marble; it hath four great Bastions, and five Towers, together with strong ramparts, and deep Ditches, which the Sea water filleth: It is ordinarily kept by a Garrison of the Spaniards Consisting of 500 There is a great Magazine of all kinds of Arms & Engines for War kept within it. In the middle of it stands the Governors' Palace, capable to Lodge a King. It is excellently furnished with Hang of silk and gold, many excellent Statues and Pictures. Amongst other fine things there is a Cabinet furnished with all sorts of curiosities. The Castle of St. Elm stands upon the top of a Rock, commanding all about it; It's Garrison consists of 250. Spainards'. It was built by King Robert the first, Son to Charles II. but afterwards far better fortified with great Bastions by the Emperor Charles V. who called it La Brillia di Napoli.  
The Castle Capuano (so called from its situation which is near to the Port of Capuano) is rather a Palace than a Fortress where the Magistrates of the City, and Officers of justice keep their Assemblies.  
5. The Palaces; whereof there are a very great number, amongst which that of the Viceroy; That of the Prince of Salern▪ which the Jesuits now possess, are very considerable. The Palace of the Duke of Gravina is most superb. That of the Carafi is adorned with abundance of excellent statues of Marble and Brass. There be many other worthy to be seen: as also the beautiful Garden of Don Garcia di Toledo, which is full of Grottoes, Fountains, Water works, statues etc.  
6. The Harbour, or Sea Port; which is fortified with a Superb mole, first made by Charles II. And then very much mended by Alfonsus the first, for the greater security of the Harbour.  
7. The Public Places, the streets, & the avenues of the Town.  
8. The Suburbs; which are seven in number; amongst which the most considerable, is that which leads A la grotio di Posilipo; near to the entry of which Grotto stands la mergelina, looking into the Bay; it was sometimes the House of pleasure of Sanazarius that famous Poet, who gave it to the Religious men called Servi. This Suburb is no less than two miles in length from the City to the Grotto of Po●lipo. The Circuit of the Town and Suburbs is counted to be about six miles: and the Inhabitants to be about 30●000. Souls. Statius Papinius and Jacobus Sanazarius; both excellent Poets; together with many other great Virtuosos were borne in this City.  
It will be worth the while also to take a view of the Booksellers Shops, there being many good Books Printed here which hardly or not all can be found with us; as for example, the works of Baptista Porta, whereof the Impressions at Naples were both the first and fairest, and the Cuts for the most part Tailledouce. The works of Fabius Columna, which are almost out of Print, and especially his Phytobasanos'. It may likewise happen that there are some new pieces emitted which will never come to our hands for at least, not tell after a great while. It is likely too that You may meet with many other Books, that in other places You had sought in vain for: there are many learned and Curious men in this City, and they are as mortal here as elsewhere, and as ordinary a thing it is to sell their Books.  
You will likewise meet with a great many curiosities of all sorts, espccially from the Levant: some natural; as stones, shells, Animals, or parts of them, fruits etc. Others artificial; some of Leather, as Purses, Letter-cases, cups, and a great many things of that kind, usualy brought from Allepo and Constantinople: Some of Silk either alone, or mingled with gold and silver; as Sashes, Girdles, Cravats, Nightcaps, waistcoats, stockings, etc. Outlandish Arms, as Cimetres, Poyniards, Bows and Arrows, with several sorts of fire Arms. Medals ancient and modern: Intalio's Chameo ' s etc. But in these You must take some heed, that You mistake not the modern for antique.  
Having well viewed and considered the City and all things in it. It will be necessary to see those things that are considerable about it. And first the Hill Posilipus, famous for its Gardens and Houses of Pleasure, for its Fruits and Wines, especially the greco di Posilipo. But that which is most Admirable in this Hill is the Passage cut quite through it. By Cocceius of whom Pontanus saith, Nescio an is fuerit M. Cocceius Nerua Augusti Auus, qui Romae aquarum curam habuit tulitque m●ximam Architecturae Laudem. However it is certain he must have been a man of great Riches that durst undertake so great a work, at his oun expense. It is called lafoy Grotta di Posilipo, and is very near a mile in length, cut through the Rock. As for the breadth of it, one Coach may pass another with ease. And for the Hight, I believe a man on Horseback will hardly touch the Roof of it with a Lance; At the two ends it is some what higher than in the middle, I think of purpose that the light might enter the farther. When You enter at the one end You will very hardly perceive the light in the other end, but as You advance it gins to appear by little and little. In the Just middle of it, on that side which is next the Sea, there is a little Chapel, where a Lamp is kept continually burning, but it is more out of Devotion than for any light it gives: betwixt the Chapel and the end, as it were about the middle on every side of the Chapel there is a hole cut through the Hill which serveth for a window, but it gives little light. It is exceeding dusty, especeially if there be many Horses Riding together altho' it be pavane with stone, because there comes no Rain to wash it, and none takes pains to make it clean. Those that go from Naples to Pozzuolo if they hear any Horse's Coaches or Carts coming toward them, lest they should stop the way, or unawares Justle one another, they use to cry aloud dal mare, which when the others hear, they cry in like manner dal monte and so those that go from Naples take that side of the Grotto, which is next the Sea and these that go to it take the side next the Hill; and so avoid all encumbrance. At the mouth of the Grotto, upon the top thereof is the famous Sepulchre of Virgil. There is little remaining of it now except a few Ruins of an old Brick wall in the middle whereof anciently there did stand nine small Pillars, which sustained a Marble U●●, in which were contained the Poet's ashes, with this Distich. 
Mantua me genuit, Calabri rapuere, tenet nunc  
Parthonope; cecini pascua, rura, deuces.   
Not far from this Tomb, is the Sepulchre of that famous Poet Sanazarius, in a Place called Mergelina, a Villa given him by King Frederick, where he built a Church in Honour of the blessed Virgin, and composed that incomparable Poem de partu Virgins. He is Buried within the Church in a Tomb of pure Marble upon which his statue done to the life standeth with this Epitaph by Cardinal ●embo.  Da Sacro cineri flores, hic ille Maroni Sineerus, musa proximus, ut tumulo. 
There are many other excellent Statues, Base Relieves, and Pictures within this Church well worthy the seeing.  
When you go to Pozzuolo, you must take a Guide with you to show you all the considerable Places. It will be a good day's Journey because You have many Things to see and consider, and therefore you must part early in the Morning from Naples. The first thing you will meet with upon the Way, (but you turn out of the common way) is the Lago di Agnano at the side of which are the Natural stoves of St. German, which are certain little rooms, where the hot and Sulphureous Vapours entering from the Ground quickly provoke sweeting, and is commended in several diseases.  
At a little distance from thence, upon the side of the Lake is the Grotto de I Cani. It is a little hole dug out of the side of a Brae where two or three Persons scarcely can stand. The Floor of it is ordinarily wet and dirty, out of which there riseth a Poisonous Vapour, in form of Smoke, but it ascendeth not above a Foot from the Ground. They use to try it with Torches and Dogs, which you must carry from Naples with you, for you will not find them upon the Place. As for the Torches, the guide lights two, and then reaches one of them to the Smoke, which instantly extinguishes, as if it were blown out by the force of Powder: Then he lights it at the other, and so renews the experiment as oft as you please, keeping always one lighted, until your Curiosity be satisfied; as for the Dogs he holds their Nose into the Vapour, and instantly they begin to fetch their Breath thick, and in a very little space are quite suffocated. If ye let them lie long, they will never recover, but if ye take them immediately when they are fallen down and throw them into the Lake, they will by little and little return to live again. I guess this Vapour to be so much like the Damps, that are sometimes found in our Coal-pitts, only, with us, they are soon dissipated, but here this lasteth continually, and (which is yet more strange) in an open Air; but it may be the openness of the Air is the Reason why the Vapour ascendeth no higher. I remember one of our Dogs did recover without being thrown into the Lake, which makes me believe, that it is not any peculiar Virtue in the water (as is commonly said) that restoreth them to life, but only the freedom of the Air, with the help whereof Nature reinforceth itself, the life being yet not quite extinct, which is cleared by this, that if they lie any considerable time in the cave, neither Air nor water will recover them. It is very True that, That which was thrown in the Lake recovered much sooner, and better: whereas the other remained paralytic, and impotent to move his hinder quarters: (tho' he could Sat upon his foremost Legs and bark▪) for almost two hours thereafter. It seems there is something in this Vapour or Damp that coagulats or fixes the Spirits, that they cannot move or circulat in the Body.  
From hence you take the Way to Pazzuolo, near to which you will meet with a Place called lafoy Solfatara, it is a large plain, Oval in Figure, representing a Theatre, it is above 1200 Foot in length and 1000 in breadth, it is compassed about with white & high Hills, from which in many Places, arise Clouds of smoke, of a Sulphureous smell, rolling up into the Air impetuously, with great crackling. Some of these spiracles are very small, so that it is a Pleasure, to see the Smoke ascend, by a direct line of the bigness of cane, and sometimes smaller by much. About these spiracles you will see Quantity of the Flowers of Brimstone sublimed; but I suspect the internal use of them, because of the mixture of other minerals wherewith they may be infected: But for external uses, I am not so doubtful, as also of the Spirit which by the help of convenient Glasses might be gathered in abundance from these spiracles. When you consider the plain you will wonder to hear it sound under your Horse-feets, as you were Riding over a large Floor, which is caused by the Vacuity underneath. All the Hills about abound in veins of Alum whereof some is scissile; nitre, Sulphur, Vitriol & Salt Armoniac. The Vitriol is of a delicate blue Colour and much finer than that which is commonly called Roman-Vitriol. It will be worth your while to take particular notice of these minerals, how they are extracted out of their mines, what differences there are of every Species, how they are mixed with one another sometimes, by what Art they are purified, and with what Instruments, and to what use they are put. I would have you take a Parcel of every sort and bring along with you, which you may box up at Naples with Cotton, and send before you to Rome.  
Having done these things, you come to Pozzuolo; in Latin Puteoli. The City is now much Ruined; but was Stately and Rich of Old. Cicero writing to Atticus saith quid potui non videre cum per Emporeum puteolanum iter facerem; which is chiefly to be understood of that part of the Town, which stood upon the Shore where the Artisans, and chief the Goldsmiths, had their Shops, whereof there remains little now except the Ruins, and Vestiges: And yet beneath the Church di Giesu Maria, possessed by the Dominicans, when the Wind dryves out the Sea, they do find sometimes several Precious Stones, some cut, some uncutt; and if you be Curious to inquire you will find People that make a Trade to sell such things amongst other Anticails. I remember there came several of these Persons to our Lodging-House, with Medals, Intaglios, Lucerne Antiche etc. But I found many of them to be cheats, and but modern, brought thither from Naples and other Places, of purpose to cheat Strangers, who are ordinarily more Curious than knowing of these things; As for Medals, were they never so Ancient, they are little worth unless they be well preserved, and the Characters and impressions easy to be discerned. And for Intaglios unless the Figure be good▪ and well done, and the Stone entire and unbroken, they are not worth much. The great Church now dedicated to St. Proclus was anciently dedicated to Octavianus Augustus. It is a Sumptuous Fabric of great square Marble Stones; serving for the whole thickness of the Wall, with great and high Corinthian Pillar's, and other Excellent Ornaments of Architecture.  
Here are also be seen many Ruins of great antiquity, amongst which she Gardens of Cicero famous for his Academy, where he wrote his Quaestiones Academicae. But this City, in divers ages has suffered so much by the tumults of Wars, as also by the eruptions of fire and earthquakes, that it is wonderful there should yet remain any vestiges of Antiquity. The Soil about it is most fertile and fruitful, and nature produceth here many Plants of its oun accord, which in other places are kept in Gardens, not without care: among others I remember to have seen the Ricinus or Palma Christi not only growing wild but out-living that Winter, and continuing fresh green and strong in the month of March; although ' it be an Annual Plant with us, that can hardly be raised upon a hot bed.  
You may have your Horse at Pozzuolo, and hire a boat to cross the Bay for seeing of the following things, And 1. hard by the City the remains of that Superb mole, which having been ruined by storm was afterwards Restored by the Emperor Antoninus: But at present all that Remains is 12. or 13. great Pillars built of Brick and stones of vast bigness. They appear so many towers, over which there are yet remaining, but half Ruined, some Arches. This fashion of Moles seem to be the best, because the Pillars and Arches are sufficient to break the water and secure the Ships within, and by letting part of the water enter betwixt the Pillars lessens its violence, so that the Pillars suffer not half so much, as if they were one continued wall. The Emperor Caligulae built a bridge of boats from Pozzuolo to Baii upon which he went in Triumph first on Horseback and then in Chariot, but it was of small continuance and served only to be the subject of discourse in future ages. Having passed these Pillars. You put ashore hard by the Lacus Lucrinus which as some said was so called a Lucro from the profit which it yielded to the Romans by the great abundance of excellent Fish especially Oysters, which were esteemed before any other in Italy: Whence Martial to express the Gluttony of a certain Person.  
Ostrea tu sumis stagno saturata Lucrino.  
But there is little water in it now, it being almost dried up by that most Terrible eruption of the Solfatara which happened in the Year 1538. the 29. of September two hours after Sun set, the whole country about having been troubled for two Years before with Earthquakes: At which time there burst out in one night so great a quantity of fire, Stones, Pumecks, and ashes, that near to the monte Barbaro formerly called mons Gaurus it made another Hill, near three miles in compass, and almost as high as the monte Barbaro. The south part of it looks to the Sea, the north reaches to the Lacus Avernus, & on the East it is joined with the foot of Monte Barbaro. It is called monte Nuovo. These ashes did not only make this Hill, but covered likewise a great part of the Country about, Killing both beasts and Trees, and ruining the Vintage for that Year. The Sea in the mean time retired above 200 paces, leaving abundance of Fish upon the dry sands, and many Wells of fresh Water, which sprung here and there.  
2. The Lacus Avernus is about half a miles distance from the Lago lucrino. It is compassed about with small Hills which they say were formerly covered with Trees, that did over shadow the water, and make it look black, and likewise did hinder the Sulphureous Vapours that did arise from the water to dissipat, so that the Air being infected with these vapours became so noisome especially to Fowls, that they could not live in it, and hence came the Name Avernus. At present there is little or no Wood about it, nor is the Air any thing more noisome there, than in other places about, and I have seen Fowls haunting about it and swimming in it. It is said to be very deep & for that reason without Fish but I am not certain hereof.  
3. Upon the west side of the Lake, cut into the Hill is the Antrum Sybillae commonly called Grotta della Sibylla, but not truly, for the true Cave of Sybill● is at C●●●a. This seems rather to have been a common passage from Avernus to P●ia, but is now stopped at the one end by the falling down of the Hill above. The passage is large and High, but altogether dark, and therefore You must be guided by Torch light. When You are got a good way in, upon the one side there is a little narrow passage of about three or fourscore foot in length, that leads into a handsome large Chamber, which altho' it be now much ruined, appears to have been Richly adorned, the Roof of it being Painted with Gold and Blue, and the Walls with curious figures of divers colours and the Pavement consisting of many small pieces like unto Mosaic. It is a vulgar error that this was Sibylla's Chamber, and that the Temple of Apollo, where she received her Responses, was hard by upon the Right Hand as you enter to the Lake; But it is not so, for the Ruins of that Place appear not to have been any Temple at all, But rather a Superb Bathing House, such as that of Baia, for it has the same order of Windows, & Spiracles for conducting of the Vapours. But to return to the Grotto, upon the left hand, as You enter into this Chamber, there is another Passage, some what higher and larger than the first, about 40. foot in length cut out into the Hill, which leads into another Chamber, from which there is a narrow passage, which leads into another Chamber, and several other little passages and Rooms which I do not distinctly remember, only this much that in one of them, there is as it were a little Pool of Warm Water. In this Room the heat is so great, that it is impossible to continue any time in it without excessive Sweeting, which makes me to believe, that these Rooms were intended for no other use than Bathing and Sweeting.  
4. The Remains or Ruins; and first Bagno di Cicerone. 2ly. Bagno di Tritoli; quasi Frittoli, quoth Corpora ibi fricrentur, The Entry to it is large and high. Towards the ground it is cold, but if you stand upright You must needs Sweat for Heat, and the farther one goes in, the greater the Heat is. At the bottom of the Rock within seamark, and even where the Sea covers it, the Sand is so Hot that one cannot lift a handful of it.  
5. Baia; So called from Baius, the Companion of Ulysses, who was Buried there. It was a most delicate City, but now altogether Ruined, and in the place of it there is a Castle lately Built with a a Garrison of 30. Soldiers for Securing the Port, which is very safe for Galleys, but not deep enough for Ships. The whole Bay, or Sinus of Baia, is exceedingly Pleasant; all that Tract betwixt Avernus and the Mons Misenus being full of the Remains of great and Noble structures. Many of the Roman Emperors took great pleasure in this place, & and spared no cost for the beautifying of it. Horace, who was no ill Judge, gives this Testimony of it, Nullus in Orb locus Baiis praelucet amoenis.  
As You go forward from Baia, You will still be finding something worthy the Remarking; as, 1. The House of Agrippina, Nero's Mother, who was put to Death here by her Sons Command. It is commonly said to be her Sepulchre, but it is not true. There is yet to be seen the Plaster of the Roof and walls in several Curious figures, but they are much defaced by the smoke of the Torches which strangers from all parts so frequently carry down with them. 2. That delicate Pleasant Field called the Eligium, so much renowned by Virgil in the 6th. Book of the Aeneids. All the Noble Persons that lived here abouts, or did otherwise attend upon the Court, which did often happen to be here, likewise those that for their Health's sake came to the Bath's, used to walk in this place for their Recreation and Converse. I am easily inclined to believe that considering its Situation, Prospect, and the Order that it was kept in, when so many great Persons frequented it, It could not choose but have been the most delicious Place in the whole World, and no wonder that it Prompted Virgil to Borrow both its name and his Conceit in expressing and describing the Place of the Blessed Souls Departed. I saw it in the beginning of the Month of March, and then the Heat was considerable, and the Place not only green but covered with Anemonies and other Flowers. Hard by this, is the Piscina Miraebilis: it is a Cistern for keeping of fresh Water, of a vast Bigness, the Roof whereof is supported by 48. great Pillars on every side. The whole inside of it is Crusted over with a kind of Plaster as hard as Marble, which whither it was so made by Art, or by the Continuance of the Water in it, I know not, but I think it probable that both have contributed to it. Boccace in his Book of Rivers, belieus it to have been built by Agrippa, for preserving of fresh Water, for the Commodity of the Navy which used to stay at Misenum. The Water was brought to it by aqueducts from Serino. 3. Mons Misenus or the Promontorium Misenum, so called from Misenus, Aeneas' Trumpeter, who was Buried here. It is of a Reasonable Hight, and without doubt the prospect from it is Noble; but I did not ascend it, by reason of the Company that would not stay for me.  
4. The Centum Cellae; which are a continued Fabric built of Brick with great Art under ground, it seems they have been Cisterns for Conserving of Water. In short, all this piece of ground is full of ancient Ruins, and it is not easy to Guests, what every one of them in Particular hath been.  
Having vieved all these things, you either go strait to Cuma, or else you leave it for another Day, and so return to Pozzulo, by the same Boat that waited upon you from it, and so return by Horse, by the lower but plainer and more pleasant Way, to Naples, from from whence the next Day you may go to Cuma, in Latin Cumae; a City built upon the Top of a Hill six Miles from Naples; upon the highest Top of this Hill stood the Temple of Apollo built by Dedalus, when he fled from the wrath of King Minos. It was in this Temple that Sibylla Cumea did pronounce the Oracles of Apollo. Hence that of Virgil, 
At pius Aeneas arces quibus altus Apollo  
Praesidet, horrendaeque procul secreta Sybillae.   
As you descend from Cuma upon that side that looks to the East, is to be seen the Frontispiece of the true Grotta of Sibylla, which was cut out of the solid Rock, which Virgil describeth, Excisum Euboicae latus ingens rupis in antrum.  
There are many other Ancient Ruins worthy the taking notice of, which you may have leisure enough to observe, and have time enough to return to Naples at Night.  
The next Day you may take Horse again and a Guide with you from the Town, to see the burning Hill, about 8 Miles distant from the Town; It is called in Latin Vesuvius, and in Italian Monte di soma, from the great Plenty of all things wherewith it aboundeth. the Hill itself is of a very Large Compass, and about the middle divided in two Tops, of which one is much abated of its length by the burning. Before the first eruption of the Fire, it was much higher than the other, but now it is by much the lower. It is not easily accessible both in regard of its steepness, and the great Quantity of Ashes that cover it every where, by Reason whereof, the ascent becomes slippery and uncertain. In the ascending, you may take nottice of many several Channels, some larger and deeper, some narrower and shallower made by the Torrents of burning Sulphur and other Mineral Substances, which Boiled out at the Top in the last great eruption it made, which torrents were carried several Miles into the Gulf or bay of Naples without being quenched, and killed the Fishes in the middle of the deep. You may likeways take notice of the various Mineral Substances, & Stones burned to Pumick, which are scattered over the whole Hill. When you come at the Top you will see the great Gulf made by the several eruptions, which is supposed to be six Miles in compass about the Brims, so that it makes a very large plain Field at the Bottom, that in deepness from the brim is not above a hundred Yards, it is all covered with Ashes, and nothing green in it, except it be some few Tufts, of I cannot tell what, not being able to Judge of them at that distance. The descent to the Bottom at some places seems to be easy enough, but we could find none so hardy as to venture to show us the way, altho' some of our Guides had undertaken it before, and to speak truth, it is no great discretion to venture so far down upon a Ground, which probably is not able to support one, being nothing in appearance but a Field of Ashes of uncertain deepthness. You will see in a Hundred divers Places, Spiracles, some greater, some smaller, out of which the Smoke rises impetuously, as it were shot out of a Gun, and with a continual Crackling, like that of Thunder at a distance, or the quenching of Fire. When you have satisfied your Curiosity of seeing all, you must return the same Day, and take your Horse where you left him, about the middle of the Hill; and so return to Naples. It is usual for Strangers to light at a Village about midway to the City, to Taste of these excellent Wines, that grow upon the fertile places of the Hill, and particularly of Lachryma Christi, otherways called Lagrima di Soma, which is a gross bodied Red Wine, strong and sweet to the taste, and very pleasant.  
In the suburbs of the Town, as you return, you may see the King's Stables, where the choicest Horses of the Kingdom are managed and kept for the King's use.  
Thus having vieved all in & about Naples, it will be time to order your return for Rome, by the same way you came, nor do I remember any other thing needful to be observed or advised, except that you must l●t● your Baggage ●e vieved at the Gate▪ as you go out, and take a Pass from the Customers; or which you will pay some small thing. You will likeways do well to rid yourself of all Spanish Money (gold excepted) unless it be somuch as will serve to bear your expenses to Fu●die, because it will not pass in any place of Italy, except such as are under the Spanish Dominion.  
If the Season of the Year be good, there is excellent Her●●rising upon this ●oade to Naples. You will find Wild in the Fields, many sorts of Narcissus', many Colours of single Anemone's, Squills: As●h●delus albus ma●or; Tithymalus Dendroides. It is a Plant I never saw, except upon the way from Pipern● 〈◊〉 T●rrachina, about mid way upon a Hill side, where it groweth in great abundance. It is a stately tall Plant, 〈◊〉 reading itself into several Branches, some whereof I observed to be as big as a Man's Wrist. It had few or no leaves on it in the Season when I saw it, which was March, but abundance of Yellow Flowers at the Tops of the Branches: The Ficus indica lati-folia, is a Beastly weed in the same Place, and spoils all the Ground; every leaf that falls springing up into a new Plant, which at last becometh hard and woody. Tuchr●um lusit anicum arborescens, of which I saw some goodly tufts near to Terachina. There be many other, which for brevity's sake I omit to mention, and likeways a great many that I have forgot, having lost those notes I made of their names and places; but I hope you will supply this defect, being yourself much more able to do it.  
Being returned to Rome, which I shall suppose to be about the middle or end of April: It will be fit for you to think of the next Voyage towards Loretto, unless you resolve to pass the Summer at Rome, for after the 20th. of May, until the latter Rains fall (which is commonly about the middle of September, or the beginning of October, the extreme heat makes Travel very unseasonable. But if in the case of necessity, such as Pestilence, or War, you should be forced to undertake the Journey, you must order it so as to Travel most in the Night, and Rest in the heat of the Day, and be sure not to Sleep till you have passed the Campania of Rome, as I have formerly marked.  

The Way to Loretto from Rome.   
Miles.  Prima porta 
7  castle Novo 
8  Rignano 
7  Civita 
9  O●ricoli 
8  Nar●i 
●  Terni 
●  Strettur● 
8  Spolet● 
8  Passo di Spel●to 
8  Verchi●no B●rg● 
9  Pi● di dignano 
●  Mucc●a Castello 
7  Valcimara 
8  To●entino 
9  Macerata 
10  Loretto 
6   
I have not much to say of the particular places upon this Road, only Tern● is an Ancient City and pleasantly situated; the River Negra, in Latin Nar being divided in many Branches, and drawn through the Town, are as it were so many little Rivers, whence also the Town in Latin is called Interamna: the Meadows & Fields about it, are exceedingly fertile, in so much that the meadows are mown three or four times a Year; and they talk that Turnips are often found there of five or six & thirty weight, of which seven or eight will load an Ass; it is also renowned for Pigeons, which are thought the biggest & most savoury in Italy. If you can take the leisure to stay here any time, it will be worth your while to see the Lago di piedi luco, in Latin Lacus velinus (not far from Terni) which is said to be the middle of all Italy, that which is most considerable in it, is the Issue of the Waters from it, which was cut by a Roman Consul through a Rock, whence it Rushes out, and falls over so great a height of Rocks, that it makes a noise which may be heard at ten Miles distance, and makes a greater cascata then that of Tivoli. From Verchian● you have the Apennine to pass, which is that ridg of Hills that divides all Italy by the length.  
From Valcimara, the way is exceeding good to Loretto.  
Loretto itself is a little Town not very Ancient, built upon the Top of a Hill, not above 3 or 4 Miles from the Adriatic Sea, it is fortified reasonably well: the most considerable thing in it, is the Church, in the Choir whereof stands the Casa S●ncta, brought thither from Judeae Miraculously by Angels, as is believed. This is the House in which the blessed Virgin is said to have been Born. The outside of it is walled about with Marble cut into excellent Figures, but yet so as the Walls touch not the Holy House. The inside hath continually Lamps burning in it, some of Gold, some of Silver. There is in it a Picture of our Saviour and the Virgin, which they say were painted by St. Luke. The Image of the Virgin, which stands upon the Altar, hath a Garment upon it all covered with Pearls, & upon the Head a Crown of Gold, enriched with Jewels; upon the Top whereof there is a Carbuncle of the bigness of an Egg. There is likeways shown within the House a little Dish, out of which our Saviour is said to have Eat his Meat whilst he was yet a Babe. People commonly bring their Beads, Medals, & other pieces of Devotion to be put in this Dish, & to touch the other relics. The Sacristia is well worthy the seeing because of the Jewels, and other Rich presents and Ornaments belonging to the House, which are kept there, and have been given and offered continually, by almost all Princes and great Persons in Christendom. The Cellar is likeways worthy the seeing, being exceedingly Large and full of Wines. Amongst others they ordinarily show one great Tun out of which they draw 3 or 4 sorts of Wine, some red, some white. The number of Pilgrims, and other Persons, that out of Devotion resort to this Place, from all the parts of Christendom, is almost infinite, insomuch that every Day appears to be a holy Day and the whole Year but one continued Feast. So soon as the Gates are opened in the morning, they begin to enter as it were in Procession. I believe there are but few Inhabitants in the Town, except a few Tradesmen of all sorts, for the Accommodation of Strangers, the greatest part are Merchants, that sell nothing but Beads and pieces of Devotion, such as Medals of Silver, Gold, Brass, Crystal etc. Books of Devotion, and such like. There is good Accommodation in the Town, at a reasonable Rate. The City is Commanded by a Governor, who hath his Palace near to the Church. We were Recommended to him by Cardinal Charles Barbarini, and were treated by him with great Civility; his Secretary being commanded to wait upon us, and show us all that was considerable in the place.  
After two days stay here we dismissed our Horses that we brought from Rome, and Hired new ones from Loretto to Bolognia.  

From Loretto to Bolognia.   
Miles  Ancona 
15  La casa Brugiata 
9  Cenigalia 
9  Fano 
9  Pesaro 
6  Rimini 
20  Sanigniana Castello 
9  Cesena 
10  Furli 
10  Faenza 
10  Imola 
10  St. Nicola Castello 
10  Bolognia 
10   
Ancona is about half a days Journey from Loretto. It is a very ancient City and the best Sea Port in Italy, at least upon the Adriatic Coast: The Port was Built, at least Restored and Beautified, by Trajan the Emperor, in whose Honour a most stately Triumphal Arch was Raised upon it, which it yet extant, with this Inscription in Capital Letters. Imp. Caes. di●i Nervae F. Nervae Trajano optimo August. Germanic. Daetico. Pontef. max. Tr. Pot. nineteen. Imp. xi. Cos. seven. P. P. Providentissimo Princ. S. P. Q. R. Quod adcessum Italiae, Hoc etiam addito ex pecunia sua Portum tutiorem Navigantibus reddiderit. And upon the Right side thereof You may Read this Inscription Plotinoe Aug. Conjugi Aug. And upon the left, Divae Marcian: Aug: sorori August.  
Cenigalia is a little Town having a Seaport▪ It seems from the name to have been built, and to have belonged to the Galli Cenones.  
Fano, Anciently Fanum; because of the Temple of Fortune that stood here; There is a stately Triumphal Arch of Marble 30, Cubits High. Pesaro is a very Pleasant and handsome City having many fine Houses and a Magnificent Palace, It is well Peopled and well Fortified. The Duke of Urbin, to whom this City did belong, used to pass one half of the Year here; But since his Death without Heirs Male the whole Duchy is Reunited to the Ecclesiastic state.  
Rimini, in Latin Ariminum; is like to be so called from the River Arimine that passes by it. There are several fair Palaces in it, built by the Mala-testi ancient Lords of the Place. There is a Triumphal Arch erected in Honour of Augustus, yet extant, and the Ruins of a great Theatre. But the most considerable thing of all is the Bridge, Built of great square Marble stones, of twenty foot in length and 15. in breadth, with five Arches. The Bridge join the Via Flaminia and the Via Emilia together. It is said to have been Built by Tiberius Caesar. In the Mercat place there is to be seen the stone upon which Julius Caesar stood, and encouraged his Officers, when he began the Civil War. This Stone hath this Inscription C. Caesar D. Rubicone superato, civili Bello, Comilitones suos hic in for● Ariminensi adlocutus.  
Within a Mile of Cesina, or there abouts, You must pass the Rubicon, which seems to be but a Torrent, and in the Summer time for the most part dry; At the place where You pass there is yet extant an ancient Pillar, the Inscription whereof hath made the name of Rubicon so famous. it is as follows; Jussu mandatuve P. R. Cos. Imp. Myli Tyro Comilito manipulariaeve Cent. Turmaeve Legionariae armat quis quis est hic sistito. Vexillum sinito, ne citra hunc amnem Rubiconem signa, Arma, ductum, commeatum, Exercitumque traducito; siquis hujusce Jussionis ergo adversum ierit, feceritve, adjudicatus esto hostis P: R. ac si contra Patriam armaverit, Sacrosque Penatos e penetralibus asportaverit Sanctio plebisci Senatus.  NE Consulto ultra hos fines Armae proferre liceat nemini. S. P. Q. R. 
And upon the other side of the Pillar, the following Inscription; Rubiconem ponta subjectum transis viator, Romano interdicto Caesaris ausu, & adagio, Jactae alcae, Celebratum.  
Flumini huic stabilem imponere trajectum, Ethnica diu vetuit pavida Superstitio, Catholica nunc suasit socura Religio.  
Innocent: Xo Summo Pont:  
Card: D: Legato 1654.  
Furli; in Latin Forum Livii, where there is little thing considerable except the Market Place.  
Faenza; is divided in two by the River Lamone, over which stands a goodly Bridge that join the two parts of the Town together, it is called in Latin Faventia, and the People Faventini.  
The whole way from Ancona to Bolognia is Plain and Smooth, and the Country on all sides very Rich and Fertile, but especially near to Bolognia, (which deservedly is called la Crassa) where the whole Country, on every s●de of the high way, looks like Gardens, being Hedged and closed in on all sides, and Planted with Olive and while Mulberry Trees, the Leaves whereof ●erve to the ●eeding of Silk Worms, and at the Roots of which the Vines being Planted, run up and spread themselves thorough all the Branches of the Trees, and load them with Grapes. The distance betwixt the Ranges of Trees is Sown sometimes with Wheat, or other useful Grain, or Kitchen Herbs and Roots, Nor is there wanting here abundance of the Choicest Fruits that Italy affords.  
Bolognia; is the second Town of the Ecclesiastic State, sweetly situated in a large Plain, near to some Hills at the one side. The City is near two Miles in length and one in breadth, and about 5 Miles in Compass. The Inhabitants are not esteemed to be under 80 Thousand in number, amongst which it is thought there are two Thousand Gentlemen, whereof many have the Titles of Count and Marques. There is a famous University & many fine Colleges worthy to be seen: As also many fine Churches & Religious Houses. The Archdean of the Cathedral of St. Peter's, has the Privilege of making Doctors, above others. In the Church of Corpus Christi, may be seen the entire Body of St. Katherine of Vigri, a Religious Woman of the Order of St. Clare, that Died at Bolognia, in the Year 1463. She sits in a Chair, with a Religious Habit. The Skin of her Face seems to be bend and stretched, her Eyes open, her Hands and Feet bare: In one Hand She holds a Crucifix, the other is placed upon a Pillow. They use in the presence of a great deal of Company to pair her Nails every Month, and to cut her Hair once a Year, after they are grown. In the jacobins Church is kept the Head of St. Dominick in a Rich Tabernacle, and his Body in a Curious Tomb of white Marble cut in several figures of Base relieve; In the Choir may be seen the Histories of the New and Old Testament, with wonderful Artifice represented in mosaic of of Wood There is also to be seen here, a rare Piece of Painting, of the Innocents' made by Guido Reni; all the parts of this Convent are worthy the taking notice of, the Cloisters, the Dormitories of above 150 Religious, the Refictory Painted by great Masters, the Apothecary's Shop, and the Bibliotheck, and the Cellar which is extraordinarly Big.  
There be many fine Palaces worthy the seeing, and very well Ornamented within, but especially the Popes own Palace, where the Legate resides, and in it you must take particular care to see Aldrovandi's Study, and Collection of Curiosities, which are kept in this Palace, and commonly entrusted to the Legates Physician. There is likeways to be seen in the Back Court Aldrovandi's Garden, in which there are some Curious Plants. In the Study you will see a great Herbal, in water Colours, but without any description, as also a whole press full of Manuscripts, written all with his own Hand.  
There are several Towers in the Town, but especially that of Degli Pisanelli, which is one of the highest I remember to have ever seen; it stands about the middle of the Town, and near by it there is an other which is not finished, and the reason they give for it is very apparent, that the Builders mistook the perpendicular; when one stands near to it, it is so very crooked that it appears to be just a falling. I had the Curiosity to go as high in the other Tower as I could, and rather because I thought I might more easily discover the situation of the Town, its avenues, and the Country about, but I had much Reason to repent me: The ladders for the most part being old and rotten, so that I was in continual apprehension of falling, and one slip would have done my turn as well as a hundred. I shall advise you rather to take the pains to see a Convent, a little without the Town, toward the Hills, called St. Michaele in Bosco, from whence you will have a most Delicate Prospect of the Town and Country about. The Town appears in the form of a Ship, and the Tower Deglipisanelli, may be the main Mast of it. This Convent is one of the most Glorious in Italy; the Religious are of the Order di Monte Olivetto, there are many other things in the Town worthy the taking notice of, which for brevity's sake I omit.  
You must not forget to see the Silk-Work, which is a most Curious contrivance; it is three or four Story high, in the Highest Story there are Innumerable Pirns of Silk, which are all moved by the general Motion that the Water gives to some Wheels below, & there they receive the first Twist; in the Story next to that, they receive the second; & in the lowermost Story the last: which brings it to that form of raw Silk that we commonly see sold.  
This Place above all others in Italy, or in the World, is famous for excellent Soap-Balls, of which you will do well to provide yourself abundantly; they will keep in their perfection above 20 Years: You may have them of several Sizes, bigger or lesser as you please. It is likeways famous for Sassadges, which are the best cetainly in the World: I have seen of them of 5 Crowns the Piece.  
There is good Herbarising towards the Hills, if your leisure can permit you; you may take a Guide along with you. Upon these Hills, you will likeways find that famous Stone called Lapis phosphorus Bononiensis, of which Fortunatus Lic●t●s hath written a particular Book. It is very hard and Flinty like, but more glistering; when it is calcined 48 hours in a reverberatory Fire & then set to cool: If you expose it a little to the light and free Air, and on the sudden bring it to the dark, it shines for a little while as if it were a Red burning Coal, but there is a kind of efflorescence like Rust or greenish Dust that grows upon the Top of it, whilst it is a Calcineing, which is most effectual for the shining, and which if it by lost by any Accident, the rest will not be much worth, and for saving of this they use ordinarily to fix the Stone in Wax in the bottom of a Box, & so sell them to Strangers, but this way does not secure them, to my certain Experience. The best way is to bring the Stone uncalcined and prepare it at home. I would have you to see an Apothecary, who is a great Virtuoso especially in Plants. He is called Jacomo Zanoni speciale da san Biaggio custode de simplici in Bolognia; I believe he has Published something of Plants by this time, for he shown me a Number of Brass cuts, which were already Graven, and told me the intention he had as soon as he could get the rest perfected, to cause print them. If they may be had, I entreat you to procure me one of them; you will do well to see his Garden, which is very Curious. And the best way to engage all such Men as he is, is to have always a Parcel of rare Seeds with you, and to give them some, by which means you will find them ready to give you whatever they can spare, in like manner.  
I shall advise you to Visit the Booksellers Shops, concerning which I must give you this general advice, for finding out Botanic Books, that you take pains to look them all over yourself; for many times the Booksellers do not know their names. You will find here Panacea ex herbis quae a Sanctis denominantur Item Historia & Icones Capsicorum Bartholomaei Ambrosini in 80. Bononiae 1630. also Hyacinthi Ambrosini hortus Studiosorum & Novarum Plantarum hactenus non S●ulptarum Historia in 40. Bononiae 1657. But above all I must entreat you to buy me Aldrovandus' works, which eaten 13 or 14 Tomes in Folio; you may buy them in Sheets, and have them packed up in your own things for Venice, where you will not fail to meet with frequent Occasions of sending them for London. I believe they will not cost above 18 or 20 Crowns. and if they do I shall be ready to allow it.  
It will not be a miss here, if you think fit, to go by Land to Modena, Parma and Piatzena and return by the River Po to Ferrara: But because I had not the Fortune to see them myself, I shall not say any thing of them, but return to Ferrara, which is not above half a Days Journey, or thereabouts, from Bolognia.  
Ferrara, is situated in a large Plain about half a mile distance from the Po. It belongs to the Ecclesiastic State, and is governed by the Pope's Legate. The Streets, Houses and Places, are very handsome & fine, as also the Churches & Religious Houses. In the Monastery of S. Bennet, you may see the Sepulchre & Epitaph of the famous Poet Ariosto. It hath a very strong and well contrived Cittadale.  
From hence you go to Venice by Water, that is in an open Boat, by a Canale near to the side of the Po, where ye embark in a bigger Vessel, which goes constantly twice a Week to Venice. If the Wind be favourable, you will easily accomplish the Voyage in 10 or 12 hours' time, but if otherways, you may be longer, and therefore you will do well to make Provision of Victuals, to take along with you. When you Arrive at Venice, it will be needful to Lodge in a convenient Place of the Town, and for that end, you will do well to provide yourself of a Recommendation to the English Consul; from Rome or from Bolognia. Giles Jones was Consul in my time, and entertained Lodgers himself, he was a very honest Man, and did faithfully send my things to London, according to the address I gave him. When you are settled in a Lodging, It will be time to take a View of the Town, for the doing of which and considering it well, 3 or 4 Weeks is little enough. Nothing in Nature can appear more prodigious than to see a Vast big Town seated in the middle of the Sea; every House whereof at one side or another is touched by the Water, and the nearest Land being 4 or 5 Miles distance. It was built at first upon the little Island of Rialto in the Year 421, perhaps later by the Inhabitants of the firm Land that were chased from their own homes by Attila King of the Huns, & forced to make choice of this place for their safety; since that time they have built upon 70 or 71 Isles more, which are joined together by upwards of 450 Bridges. The Town is about 8 Miles in compass. There are but few Streets built on both sides, except some open places. The most part of the Streets have a Canale or Ditch in the middle, by which the Gondols' pass, which is a great commodity, for there is scarce a House in the Town, but one may be carried this way, either close to it or within a few steps of it. The Canals are different in breadth, some more some less large, the narrowest is broad enough for one Gondola to go by another; It is remarkable, that the Water Ebbs and Flows here 4 or 5 foot, which is not observed in the Adriatic farther down towards Naples, nor in any other Port of the Mediterranean Sea; The Gondals are believed to be above fourteen or fifteen thousand in Number; they are small tied Boats much cleaner & finer than Oars upon the Thames, having a pretty Tilt over the seat where the Passengers sit, & will be able to accommodat 5 or 6 Persons: It is usual for Gentlemen or Persons of Quality to have their own Gondols', and those Richer than the ordinary; some are rowed by one, some by two, and it is somewhat extraordinary that the Rower does not sit within the Boat, but stands upon one side of it, and looks the same way that he rows. At the turning of any Corner, after they come within such a distance of it, they are obliged to cry, to give notice to the Gondols' on the otherside whom they cannot see, and he that cries first hath this advantage, that he turns close by the corner, and the others are obliged to give him way and take it larger: And I assure you it is no small wonder to me that there being so many corners to tur●e, and so continual and frequent intercourse of Gondols' going some the one way, and some the other; and in the dark as well in the Day: there should be so few Accidents of running one another down, especially, considering with what swiftness they go. The largest Canale, called Canale grande, is about 13 or 14 hundred paces in length; & forty in breadth, and divides the Town as it were in two. The Bridge of the Rivo alto, or as it is commonly pronounced Rialto, is one of the most magnificent Structures in the City: it consists but of one Arch, & yet is said to have cost above 250 thousand Ducats; at the one end of the Bridge, there are three large Streets divided by 2 rows of Houses, which are so many Merchant shops. This serves for the Exchange, where the Merchants meet about Noon to do their affairs.  
There are so many things considerable in this Place that it is difficult to comprehend them in this short Narration, and therefore I shall only name a few of them, and leave the rest to your particular inquiry, which will not be hard for you to make, when you are upon the place. Be pleased then first to take notice among the Churches of that of St Mark, which properly, is only the Duke's Chapel belonging to the Palace of St. Mark, whose Body being brought from Alexandria is preserved here; The Church has 24 Chanoines belonging to it under one Head, called Primicero. He is commonly chosen by the Doge, and wears the Mitre and other Ornaments of a Bishop, & uses to give his Benediction to the People as Bishops do. The inside of the Church is of Marble of divers sorts, and all very fine, with above 40 Marble Pillars; It is paved with Porphire, Serpentine etc. in Mosaic Work; Upon the Top of the great Altar, there is a Globe enriched with a great number of Pearls and other Jewels of price; The Roof of the Church consists of 5 Cupula's covered with lead; It hath 5 Doors of Brass, and over the great entry on the outside there stands four delicate Horses, equal in bigness to the Natural, of Brass Guilded, which at first were placed upon the Triumphal Arch of Nero, after he subdued the Parths, but were afterward carried to Constantinople, when the Seat of the Empire was removed from Rome and at last brought hither by the Venetians when they took Constantinople. 2ly. That which is most worthy of the seeing (it may be in all the World) is the Treasure of St. Mark, where amongst other things you will see 12 Royal Crowns & 12 Breast Plates of Gold, full of Pearls and Jewels; taken as they say at Constantinople; And the Tradition is, that they were the Ornaments of the 12 Maids of Honour that waited upon St. Helena Mother to Constantine the Emperor; several Rubies weighing 8 Ounces a Piece, and a Saphir that weighs ten Ounces; two Unicorns Horns; several Vessels of Precious Stones▪ as Agat, J●spir &c. one of Emerald which a King of Persia presented the Senate with. One of one single Turquis; another capable to hold a Scots Quart of one single Granat; The Tiar or Bonnet wherewith the Duke is Crowned, is Garnished with Jewels of inestimable price; There is a vast deal of other Riches, which I cannot particularly remember; There is likeways to be seen the Picture of the blessed Virgin done by St Luke. The Acts of the Apostles written in golden Letters by the hand of St John chrysostom, Patriarch of Con●tantinople. It will be worth your while to go to the Top of the Steeple, from whence you will have a delicate Prospect of the whole City and Neighbouring Islands, of a part of Lombardy, of the several Mouths of the River Po, The Hills of ●tria; & the Sea about▪ 3ly: The Palace of St Mark, whereof the Arches, Pillars, Halls and Chambers are all most Stately, especially the great Halls, which are Painted by the greatest Masters of their time; for the fetter understanding of which, it will be fit, that you get a Printed Inventory ●f all the particular Ornaments of this Palace.  
4ly, The Piazza of St Marco, which is one of the Largest and finest that can be 〈◊〉 in any Town in Italy; being com●●●sed with most Stately and regular Buildings▪ with large Arches and Porticoes to walk in, in the time of Heat or Rain▪ with all sorts of Merchandise and Trades. This Place is the most diverticeing in all Venice, for here you may see People of many Nations with different Habits. At that end of that place which looks to the Sea, there stands two Marble Pillars, each of them of them one Piece, of a great height and bigness, at a reasonable Distance one from another. Upon the Top of the one is placed a flying Lion guilded, which is the Arms of Venice, and the Symbol of St Mark; Upon the Top of the other the Statue of St Theodore gilded. Betwixt these Pillars, Justice is usually done upon Malefactors. About the middle of the place stands 3 very Tall Poles like unto Ships Masts, whereupon the Standards of the Republic are displayed at great Solemnities. On that side of the place, which is opposite to the Duke's Palace, stands the Mint-House, a very goodly Fabric, composed of Stone and Iron, without any Wood at all. 5ly. The Arsenal, which is the largest and best Furnished in the World; it is strongly Walled about, and the Sea drawn about it likeways. There are fifteen or sixteen hundred Men constantly at Work, besides Old Men, who are not able to work, but entertained for instructing the younger. Here are kept all sort of Amunitions of War both for Sea & Land, in vast Quantities, and in that good Order, that I have heard some confidently say, that there were Workmen within the Arsenal, that were able to build a Galley, and reik her out completely in one Hours time; which if it be true, argues a great deal of sharpness in the Workmen, and readiness of the Materials.  
There are several lesser Islands at some distance from the Town, worthy to be seen, and particularly, 1. Murain about a Mile Northward from the City. It is well built and many good Houses in it; It is in this Island, that all those famous Crystal Glasses so much talked of, and so much sought after throughout the World, are made. It is observed here, that the Glass-works succeed much better on the one side of the Street than on the other. They have likeways a great Art of whitneing Wax, which is observed to succeed better in this Island than any other place in or about the City. There are abundance of Oysters likeways in this Island; they ordinarily keep them in Baskets near the Shore, to have them in readiness when they are called for, but in my opinion they are neither so pleasant, no● so wholesome as at Lighorn and other places, especially being eaten raw, for I have often found the eating of them so, to give a very troublesome Flux of the Belly to several Persons. 2ly. The Isle of St Helena, where there is a very stately Monastery & Church, with Monks of the Order of Mont Olivet. In this Church is kept the Body of the Empress St Helena. This Isle lies to the Eastward of the Town, and about two Miles further the same way, stand the two Forts deal L●do and Casielnovo, which both defend themselves mutually, and secure the entry to the City from Enemies in time of War▪ 3ly. Malamocco, where all Ships and Vessels of any considerable Burden do Arrive because of the deepness of the Harbour. 4ly. The Isle of St. George, lying just before the place of St. Mark, at half a Miles distance, where there is an Abbace of the Order of St. Benedict, with a most Stately and Glorious Church, together with a Garden and fair Walks, which is thought no small thing in that Place.  
Although a Traveller cannot be altogether sure of his times, there being so many Contingencies that may force him either to Arrive too soon or too late; yet it were to be wished that a Man might happen to be at Venice in the time of Carnoval, because of the Operas and fine shows that are to be seen, and the Extraordinary Music at that time. In the Summer time the great Divertisement is to go in Gondola upon the great Canale, where towards the Evening, one may see Five, or six hundred Gondols' touring up and down, full of Ladies and Gentlemen, & severals of them with Music, both Vocal and Instrumental; which is one of the greatest Gusto's imaginable.  
You cannot miss to meet with a great many Curiosities here, both Natural and Artificial, because of the great resort that Strangers have to this Place, especially from the Levant; you will find Medals, Intaleo's, Chamaeo's &c. amongst the Goldsmiths. I have seen several Curiosities to sell in the place of St. Mark, and sometime within the Court of the Palace, and in many other corners throughout the City. You may meet with maby Curiosities of Glass, that are both useful and delightful. It will be worth your while to Visit the Booksellers Shops, for besides many Curious Books, that you may light upon here, and particularly of Botany; you may likeways find very many Books, that are prohibited in many other places of Italy. Be pleased to inquire diligently for a thin 40. called Trattato de simplici Pietre. & pesci marini che nascono del lito di Venetia di Antonio Donati Farmacopeo all'insegn● di St. Liberale in Venetia 1631. Printed by Pietro Maria Bertano. Donati himself was Dead before I came thither, but I found out his Brother, a Man of the same Profession and living at the same place, but nothing knowing in Simples. After I had told him the respect I had for his Brother's Memory, and my regrate for the loss of so worthy a person; he was pleased to show me a great many Brass-Plates of so many Plants not yet described, together with their description done by his Brother; I am confident were they Published, they would make a bigger Volume than the first. They were in Confusion when I saw them, but I put them in Order and prayed him to keep them so, until he should find the opportunity of printing them, which I found him willing to do at his own Expense, nor to trust it with an other, lest his Brother's name should have been stolen from it. If it be not as yet printed, you may see what you can do, either to purchase the Manuscript and Plates, or promise the printing of it.  
There are many Virtuosos in the City, that have great Collections of fine things which you may be pleased to inquire after and see.  
From Venice you have twenty five Miles to Milan, whereof fo●r by Berg to the Terra ferma, and the rest you go by Boat, drawn with Horses by the River Brent, which is a most pleasant and soft running River, having plain, Fertile & most delicious Fields on either side, full of Villages & pleasure-Houses, to which the Inhabitants of Venice use to resort in the Summertime.  
The River runs not all of a Level, & therefore there are three or four Locks or Sluices, by means whereof, at several places the River is made portable; which otherways it would not be. There is such an other Lock upon the Canale of Briar, near to Montargis in France. You will more easily understand the manner of them by seeing them, than by any description I can make of them.  
Milan, in Latin Pattavium. Is a very Ancient and Large Town; famous over the World, for its University; whence it is called Milan la dotta. There are many things considerable in the Town fit to be seen and take notice of. As 1. The Churches as namely that of S. Sophia, that of Justino, which is all Pavemented with white & red Marble; there is an Abbacy joining to it of the Order of St. Benedict; the Reformation of which Order did begin first here. It was Anciently the Temple of Concord. The place before the Church is very large & spacious. They say ten Thousand Men might be drawn up within it. The Church of St. Antonia de Lisbon, is notably designed, and hath many Rich things belonging to it; many Relique's, but amongst others the most considerable is the Body of St. Antonia, commonly called of Milan, because he Died and was in●erred here. There is great a Devotion paid to this Saint, and a great concourse daily to the place, as well of the Inhabitants of the Town, as of Pilgrims that come from other places. They use to kiss the Marble-Stone that covers his Sepulchre; and they say it smells of Musk. 2ly. The palace of Justice, which is most stately. The Stairs are all of Marble covered with Lead without the support of any Pillar. The great Hall is 256 foot in length, and 86 foot in breadth, and very well painted, and at the end of it, that Statue of Titus Livius, whose Tomb is likeways to be seen in the Town. 3ly. The Schools, which is a very stately Fabric, being a 4 square court, where you will see a great many of the Statues or Busta's, Names & Arms of so many Consuls, that have been of the several Nations that compose the University; the Scholars here have large Privileges, and many times abuse them, and become very insolent, insomuch that they have been sometimes known to threaten the Podesta himself or Governor of the Town; they have, likeways a beastly custom of carrieing Arms in the Night, insomuch that it is never safe to be abroad after it hegins to be Dark, for many are this way unhappity Murdered without any Offence given or taken, but only by wantonness, or rather Wickedness of the Scholars. 4ly. The Physical Garden, which is exceedingly fine, not so much for the number as rareness of the Plants. You may easily make your addrefs to the Professor that keeps the Garden who in my time was the Excellentissimus Signeur Tore, but the Gardener will be sufficient to do your turn, for in giving him a small piece of Money, you will command both Seeds, Plants, and all that he hath. We have a very worthy Gentleman of our Country, called Doctor Cadenhead; in my time he was Public Professor of Logic nel Bornwell, which is the Public Schools. He is a most courteous and obliging Gentleman, and will be ready to do you all the kindness' Imaginable. 5ly. You may see the Hospitals for sick Folk, and many other things, which for Brevity's sake I omit, only I entreat you be at the pains to Visit the Booksellers Shops; and if there be any new thing in Physic, since the 62 or 63 Year of God, I entreat you to bring them along with you for me, especially if there be any thing of Rhodius, who hath promised us his commenta●s upon Cornelius Celsus long ago.  
If you please, you may make a little Journey to the Euganean Hills, which are not far from P●dua. There is very good Herborsing upon them. It will be worth your while, likeways to see Abbano, a Village 3. or 4 Miles distant from Milan; famous for its Natural Baths. At the end of the Village there is a little rising or know; upon the Top of which there are a great many Springs of hot Water, some where of are scalding hot. The Water is convoyed by little Conduits to several Houses about, where Baths are kept for sick People, but the greater part of it is convoyed the other way by a trough, where, at the distance of a Musket shot, it moves a Milne. The water itself is whitish, having a white slimy substance in it, which it deposes every where, where it runs, and which in process of time becomes as hard as a Stone; in so much that the Miln-Wheel, and all the Wood that is touched by it, becomes crusted as it were with Marble; and if it be not broken of timeously, it stops the Motion of the Wheel just as I●eicles use to do with us. The Country about Milan is very Plain and exceedingly Fertile, insomuch that they use to say, B●lognia la grassa, ma Padua la passa; yet the Wine is not good, but a red small Claret-Wine such as they use at Venice for ordinary drink. When you ha●● past some time at Milan, and satisfied yourself, of all that is to be seen and known there, it will be time to set ●orward for Milan.  

From Milan to Verona.   
Mil●s  Vicenza 
17  Montebello 
12  Scaldere 
10  Veron● 
12   
In going from Milan to Vicenza, you will do well to turn a little out of 〈◊〉 way to see a place called Gustoso, 〈◊〉 is a House of Pleasure belonging to a ●●r●ticular Person, where, besides many curiosities, of Gardens etc. there is particular ways of conveying the Win● 〈◊〉 the Caves below to the upper 〈◊〉 which makes a delicate Fresco in the greatest heats of Summer. It stands at the foot of a very great Mountain, under which are the vastest and biggest Caves I ever saw; but seem not to be Natural, but rather Quarries, out of which the greatest part of the Stone that Vicenza has been built with, has been taken. In one place of these Caves, there is a little Well made by the Water that drops from the Top of the Cave, which petrifies any Wood, Straw etc. that lieth any time in it, and yet the Water keeps clear itself, without congealing. Near to the City of Vicenza, upon your left hand, you will see a delicate Piece of Architecture, made by the famous Architect Vinogli, which is likeways designed in his Book; It is only a House of Pleasure, and stands upon a considerable height from the City, discovering all the Country round about.  
Vicenza is a good large Town, having many fine Churches and Palaces, with a large place for Tilting and other Exercises: there is likeways in it a Noble Theatre built by Vinogly: the Country about is exceedingly Fertile, and abounds with all sort of good Fruit, and is therefore called the Garden of Venice.  
Verona is an easy days Journey from Vicenza; It is an Ancient City, large and well built, having many stately Palaces, Churches etc. & an old Amphitheatre, yet more entire than any other in Italy. The Town is divided in two by the River Adice, it is well Fortified, having 13 Royal Bastions, and three Castles; the two parts of the Town, are conjoined by 4 large Stone Bridges. There is excellent Herborizing upon the Hills near to the City, but especially upon the Monte baldo, which is about 20 Miles distant from this City, and which is described at great length by Joannes Pona, whose Book I suppose you have seen. The Palace del Conte Justi, is worthy the seeing, together with the Gardens and Grotta's. Amongst the rest, there is one of a Reasonable Capacity built with that Artifice, that four Persons being placed in the four Corners, may speak each of them to his Neighbour in the opposite Corner, and yet not be heard by those that stand in the middle between them. In the Palace of the Signior Conte Gregorio Bevila●●●▪ there is a Gallery, in which you may see a great many fine Pictures, Statues, Medals, and other Rarities.  
●rom Verona you pass by lafoy peso●eira, which is a strong Fort, upon the River 〈◊〉 issues from the lago di Garda: from 〈◊〉 you go to Dissanzano, which tho' 〈…〉 big Town, but rather a Village, I look upon it as one of the pleasantest 〈◊〉 in Italy; being upon the side of 〈◊〉 lago di Garda, a Lake not so 〈◊〉 as long, for in length it reaches to 〈…〉 Rhetici. The Country about 〈…〉 and Fertile, and the Lake it 〈◊〉 ●●ounds with all sorts of Excellent 〈◊〉 such as Pikes, Pearches, red and 〈◊〉 Trout etc. and of all there are 〈◊〉 very big. In my time there was 〈◊〉 ●rench-man, that kept a very good 〈◊〉, where we had excellent Far 〈◊〉 of fish and Flesh, and the best Wine 〈◊〉 the whole State of Venice, and all at 〈◊〉 Rate.  
From Dissanzano, you go to Bre●cia, which is not above half a days Journey distant from Dissanzano. It is a large and very strong Town, especially the Castle thereof placed upon a Hill, that Commands the Town. It is famous for making of Guns, and Pistols, especially the Cannons of them, which are the best I ever saw by far. If you have the opportunity of carriage, it would be worth your while to make Provision for yourself here. If you resolve to make your return, not to Lions but, throw Switzer-Land and Germany, down the Rhen, & so throw Flanders and Holland, than it will be fit when you are at Bol●gnia to go up the Po, by Modena, Parma, Piazz●nza, and so to Milan, and from thence to Turrin, and then back to Milan again, and so return by the other way of Bergamo, Brescia, Dissanzano, Verona, Vicenza and Milan to Venice, by which means you will not only see the sweetest and most Fertile places of Lombardy, but also have the commodity of bringing what ever you find in all that way to Venice, from whence it may easily be Convoyed into England. From Bres●i● to Bergamo you have a day's Journey: You must Dine at a Place called Pallazolo; It is a little inconsiderable Town. I remember we had a Letter of Recommendation from the Duke of Norfolk's Major-Domo at Milan, to a Gentleman in this place, who was exceedingly Civil to us & sent us a Present of excellent Wine, & (which was of far greater importance to us) gave us the assurance of the peaceableness of the Country & security of Travelling, which sometimes is not without the danger of being rob; it being near the Frontiers of the state of Milan: & in such cases, it is usual for Rogues, when they have done a Mischief to pape into the next state, where the Laws of the other State cannot reach them. The project of our recommendation, was to have been conducted by this Gentleman on our way; if there had been any such need. He willingly proffered it, but we, upon the assurance he gave us did as willingly deny to accept it.  
Bergamo is situated upon the side of a Hil, Fortify with 9 Bastions besides the Castle, which is extremely strong. There is, as I take it, in the Dominicans a Rare Bibliotheque, Collected by the great expense of Alexander Martinengo, You will do well here to exchange all your Venetian Money into Spanish Money, & such as will pass into the State of Milan. You have a Days Journey from hence to Milan, and must Dine at a Place called Villa nova: as soon as ye have Dined, you pass the River Tesin: And then enter the State of Milan.  
As you enter the State of Milan, you will find some Searchers or waiters of the Customhouse, to whom you must give some small thing to let your Baggage pass, or else you may be troubled with them.  
The State of Milan, altho' but small in extent, is yet one of the pleasantest & Fertilest places in Italy. The Country is very Plain. The Highways for the most part very large and strait, planted with Trees and Hedges, on every side, and having Canales of water, for the most part, on every side; and Travellers have this Advantage also to meet with better Inns and better accommodation here than on any other Road in Italy. The Inhabitants are not given to mutiny and Rebellion as those of Naples, but willingly submit to their Prince. It is said that the King of Spain Governs the Kingdom of Sicily with mildness: Naples with subtility and the Duchy of Milan with Authority. They say likeways that the inferior Governors of Sicily, only but Gently: Those of Naples eat lustily, but that in Milan they devour. I have observed throughout all Italy, that the greatest part of the Innkeepers and Taverners even in Rome itself are Milanese: as also that the greatest part of the Masons that serve all Italy, are of this Country: and it is a very great Mark both of their love to their Country and loyalty to their Prince, that when they are not able to get so much by staying at home, as to entertain their Wives and Children, and pay Public Burdens, they are contented to live abroad most part of their lives, and return that home which they Gain abroad; for they never carry their Wives with them, nor Children till they be able to Gain for themselves: Only it may be they make them a Visit sometimes. The City of Milan, which is Capital of the Duchy, is one of the stateliest in Italy: it is near ten Miles in compass, but a considerable part of it, especially toward the Walls, is Gardens. The Streets are large & handsome; Many stately Churches and Palaces: But I shall Mark them a little more particularly as I have done in other Towns: And 1. to begin with the Churches, It is said there are above 230 in the City and Suburbs, whereof 96 are parochial: 40 Convents of Religious Men, and 50 of Religious Women. The Cathedral Church called il Domo, is one of the greatest and most Glorious in Italy except St. Peter's at Rome. It is entirely built of white Marble within & without, but that which is to be pitied is, that the design is Gothick; it is not yet quite finished; but they are still at work, and you may guests when they are like to come to an end, they having been up wards of 200 Years at work already. There are above 600 Marble statues about the Walls, every one of which cost at least 1000 Crowns, amongst which the statue of Adam and St. Bartholomew are much esteemed, especially the latter which is thought to be one of the best in Europe. The Pend of the Church is supported by 160 white Marble Pillars, each of them of that bigness, that scarcely can three Men fathom them. It is believed that they stand not under 10000 Crowns a piece. All the rest of the parts of the Church are correspondent in Magnificenee, only it appears to me to be somewhat darker than need were. Amongst many other things that are considerable in this Church is the Body of St. Charles Boromeus in a Chapel under Ground. It hath a Lamp burning before it, and you look down through an Iron Tirles from the Church to see it. You may see the Head and Feet, but the rest of the Body is covered with his pontifical Habit. There is a rich Treasure belonging to the Church, where you will see, amongst other things▪ a Silver statue of the same St. Charles in his Pontifical Habit, with many precious Stones of great Value upon the Mitre thereof. It was presented by the Jewellers and Goldsmiths of Milan. In the Church of St. Ambrose, you may see a Pillar in the middle of the Church, upon which stands the Brazen Serpent that Moses elevated in the Wilderness. You may likeways see two stately Tombs, one of the Emperor Luis, and the other of Pepin King of Italy, both Sons of Charles the Great. Here also you may see the Chapel where St. Augustine was Baptised. In the Church of St. Satire, upon the great Altar there is a Picture of the blessed Virgin with the Babe Jesus in her Arms, of which they tell a wonderful Story, that it being placed upon the Church-Yard-Wall, a certain Gamester called Massario Vigonzonio, being mad to have lost his Money, struck the little Jesus with a poniard, whereupon immediately there gushed out abundance of Blood, after which it was placed upon the great Altar where it is yet to be seen.  
2ly. The Palaces; amongst the rest that of the Governor.  
3ly. The Hospitals; which are said to entertain above 9000 poor People all the Year long, at the expense of the Public. That which is called the great Hospital, entertains alone more than 4000, and so it may, for it has three Score ten Thousand Crowns of Yearlie revenue. The Lazaretto is a kind of Hospital without the Walls, It is a large Square court about a Mile in Compass, not unlike the form of the Carthusians Houses; that are divided into so many little apartments. The chief Design & use of it, is in the time of the Plague: at other times it stands empty, only some few persons that have the keeping of it, remain there.  
4ly. The places in the Town; chief the Exchange, where the Merchants meet; there you will see the statue of St▪ Augustin, and the place where he taught Rhetoric before his conversion to the Christian Faith.  
5ly. St. Ambrose's Bibliotheck, where not only these Books that belonged to St. Ambrose himself, but many other Books that have been presented since, are kept.  
6ly. Septalie's gallery. This Manfredo Septali, is Son to that famous Physician Ludovicus Septalius, who hath written many things, & learnedly in Philosophy and Medicine. He is at present one of the Canons of the great Church; And one of the greatest Virtuosos in Italy. His Study of Books consists of 2 or 3 Rooms. His gallery of Curiosities of three Rooms. The Curiosities are both Natural and Artificial, of so great a Number and Variety, that I must not insist upon particulars; but only refer you to the description thereof in Latin by Paulus Maria Tersagus, the Book is in 40. Dertono 1664, and bears the name of Musaeum Septalianum. He hath also an other Room or two, full of working Tools, ●ome for turning, others for Grinding of optic Glasses of all sorts and Fashion; and here you will see a great Variety of Musical Instruments. Most part of the Booksellers live near to the Exchange, but their Magasins are in several other places of the Town; you must be careful to see them all. You will undoubtedly find some to please, on which perhaps you will not readily fall else where.  
You will meet with many Curiosities in this place, especially of Crystal, brought hither from the Alps, and a Thousand Conceits, most delicately wrought of Straw. I have heard of pieces of Crystal, with several shapes represented within them naturally, as of Trees, Flees, etc. others with a drop of water within them, that one might perceive to move, but is was not my Fortune to light on any such.  
7ly. The Castle of Milan, is one of the greatest Forts in Italy, with six Royal Bastions, a large Fossey full of running water, and within it a second Wall of strength. The Place within will admit of 6000 Men to be drawn up, It has above 200 piece of Cannon▪ all sorts of Ammunition and 600 Spaniards in Garrison. It has a Water Miln within it for Grinding of Corn, which is moved by the running Water that fills the Ditches.  
At a Miles distance from the Town, there is a Private Gentleman's House, where the Echo is so excellent that it repeats above 40 times, which you may try, either by speaking Loud or otherways with a Trumpet; but the surest way is with Pistol Shot, for than you may distinctly tell to 40, one after another.  
The Carthusians have a stately Monastery at 10 Miles distance from Milan, wihin five Miles of Pavia, which hath 500000 Crowns of Yearly revenue; The Monks use to entertain Strangers for one Night. The Church is of a most delicate Fabric and very Rich. If you please you may go from hence to Pavia, Anciently Ticinum, and afterward called Pavia. The Town is very strong and stands upon the Tesin▪ It is the Chief University of the Duchy of Milan, but because I was not in it myself I cannot say much of it, only I have heard that in the great place of the City stands the Brazen Statue of the Emperor Constantine, or as some think of Antoninus, very much esteemed. If you list to go thither I believe it may be well worth your seeing, because of the University, for, for any thing I know, there may be both good Books, and a Physical Garden there.  
From Milan to Turin, you have about 73 Miles.  

From Milan to Turin.  Buffalora 
9  Novara 
16  Vercelli 
15  S. Germano 
13  Ci●uas 
10  Turin● 
10   
You have two Rivers to pass, by Boat viz. the Dorn, after you pass Vereelli and the Tesin near to Ci●uas: Near to Vercelli you enter into Piedmont, & there you will meet with waiters or Customers to whom you must give some thing, and before this time it will be fit that you have changed all your Spanish Money except it be Pistols, or half Pistols of Gold, for these will pass any where, either in Piedmont or France. When you Arrive at Turin you will think yourself already in France, for their Apparel, Customs and Discourse, are almost altogether French.  
Turin, Augusta Taurinorum is the Capital City of Piedmont, and is situated in a Plain about 20 Miles distant from the Alps; having the Po on the one side and the Dorn on the other. The Dukes of Savoye keep their Court here, and have made it both very pleasant & very strong: There is the old and new City, which is very well and regularly built. It is compassed with Royal Bastions, and Walls. It hath a Citadale, consisting of 5 strong Bastions. They say it is after the Model of the Citadale of Antwerp. The great Church is called the Domo, where amongst other relics is kept and had in Veneration the Sanctum Sudarium, upon which the Visage of our Saviour & the greatest part of his Body is impressed. There is a famous University here, & this is said to be the first Town in Italy that had the first use of Printing. The Castle serves now the Duke for a Palace. There is a rare gallery to be seen, with many fine Pictures, Antic Statues etc. and a great Collection of Manuscripts. Amongst the new Buildings the Royal Place is considerable; the walks thereof being full of Shops and Merchandise of all sorts. You may likeways see the Valentine, which is a beautiful Palace, built by Madam Royal a little beneath the Town upon the Bank of the Po▪ In the Suburbs of the Po, there is a House called Albergo worthy the seeing, because of the many excellent Manufactories of Silk, and other Stuffs that are made there.  
I leave the rest to your own observation, that I may haste to bring you over ●he Alps; the ordinary way is to Tra●el with the Messenger to Lions or to Ge●eva. We came to Lions. It is a Journey of 8 or 9 days. The first day we ●arted from Turin about ten a Clock in ●he forenoon, and came to lie all Night ●ome 10 or 12 Miles from Turin, having already entered into one of the Valleys ●hat leads to the foot of the Hill; the next day we Dined at an other little Village hard by the foot of the Hill, cal●ed Monte Cene, here we hired Mulets to ●arrieus up the Hill; it being impossible for our Horses to do it. You must likeways ●ire Men to carry you down on the other side of the Hill, because it is a great deal too far to walk, and the way that the Horse goes, is far about, because of the steepness of the Hill. And yet I mnst tell you that the Hill is three times steeper and less accessible on the Italian side than on the French side. As you mount the Hill, at first you will find the soil somewhat fertile at least ways for pasturage and abundance of Wood; but when you are ●ot higher you will find nothing but Rocks, & Shrubs, here & there; there is a little beck in the face of the Hill, where there stands a few Houses, or rather corbie nests; a habitation which some People have chosen for the benefit they may make by Accommodating Strangers that pass that way, for they are all Victualing-Houses, and (as I take it) a Smith or two. When you pass this and continue still to Mount, you will be about the middle Region of the Air, and it's a hundred to one; but you may see Clouds enough beneath you, & it may be the Rain falling from them; and than you will begin to find it cold what ever time of the Year it be, and the the higher you go it will still▪ be the ●older, till you come to the very highest pitch you are to go, and there you will meet with a little House, in which one can scarce stand upright, where, if you have leisure, you will get some Bread & Drink to buy; they usually have white Hares and white Partridges to sell, and as usual it is for Strangers to buy them for curiosities sake, & have them dressed at their next Lodging. From this you have a Plain of above half a mile in length, which for the most part is coveted with Snow, except in the heat of Summer and then it will be green in some places that are most exposed to the Sun. The great Pike of the Hill, which yo● leave upon the right hand as you enter the plain, is above two miles higher, and perpetualie covered with deep Snow. About the middle of the plain stands the ruin of a great House, which Madam Ro●al began to build, but whither she finished it or not, I cannot tell; however I am sure nothing but omnipotency could make a House resist the Rage of so much Wind and Storm, as that Place is Subject to. When you come to the end of the plain, there is an other little Victualling House, but it was Desolate, when I passed. You quite your moulets at the entry into the Plain, and take your own Horses, and here you quite them again, and leave your Messenger to wait upon them to the bottom of the Hill, the best way he can, and permit yourself to be carried by two men which came along with you (for according to the number of the Company there comes two for one from the Italian side, as I hinted at before) It is a kind of Barrow, with a little Seat, & a back at it, with two little handles to hold by, & a foot board for streaching your limbs before you, tied at both ends with a piece of small Rope, that they set ●ou upon; & then carry you the nearest way down the Hill, which you would think steep enough for Goats to climb. They go at the Rate of an Ordinary Horse trot, & as they go will trist the stones to step upon, which lie confusedly here and there, as exactly as if they were a pair of stairs and yet they will not fall once in 500 times, and if they should it would be a fall without any great Peril. But indeed the danger on the Italian side is much greater; there being great Precipices on the one hand, where into, if one should fall it were impossible to escape, insomuch that I have often wondered how any Body durst adventure to climb upon a Beasts back: and yet is admirable to see with it what dexterity these poor Moulets pick out their way, where scarce any man could crawl all four, & how sure footed they are. But I must return to the French side, where you may pay off your porters when they have brought you to your Lodging at a little Village near to the foot of the Hill. The ordinary rate is a Crown a Head that is, half a Crown to every Porter.  
I have told you the way of passing the Mount Cene at such Seasons, of the Year, as there is little or no Snow: But in the Winter time when the Snows are fallen the Passage is much more uneasy & unsafe, especially if they be newly fallen, and the paths not trod; for than it is not only impossible to go without 2 or 3 Guides, that in case one should drop throw the Snow there may be more hands to let fall a Rope and bring him up again; for sometimes that will happen, as when a Courier is necessitat to pass upon important affairs, & any of the Guides chance to mistake a step, he will some times slip down 100 fathom or two. But this is not the greatest Danger neither, for in the French side, from the foot of the Hills, you have a whole day's Journey and more through a narrow Valley with a small River in the middle of it, which, at the foot of the Mount Cene, one may easily step over, but it grows still bigger, as it advances throw the Valley; being increased by the water that pours from every cleft of the Hills and Rocks, which are on every side of the Valley, of a prodigious height, and most precipitious: The current of the River falling sometimes to be on one side of the Valley, and sometimes on the other, for the most part casts the highway on the contrary side; So that very often you will chance to pass under horrible Rocks that hang over the high way, and when the Snow is new fallen and they loaden with it, the least noise in the World would bring down a whole Mountain of Snow, So that if a Passenger were so caught, you might look upon him as buried till the following Spring.  
But I shall advise you to choose a fit Season, and then you will have the Satisfaction of Herborising, for the lower parts of the Hills are all covered with Trees & many sorts of Plants, that do not grow Naturalie in an other Soil. I confess my Fortune, as to this, was ill; for after I passed the Monte Cene, we had a constant deluge of Rain, till I came the length of Chamberrie. But I must not here forforget to acquaint you with an other particular that had almost escaped me, in time of Snow: and it is this. When you come to the French side (supposing the Snow to be frozen and able to bear above;) there is a singular way of going down the Hill, which they call R●masser, ou se faict Ramasse. That is to have a little hurdle of Wood, upon which the Passengers is placed, with a little bit of Board behind it, upon which the fellow stands that Guides the way, and so you come hurling down together, at a greater rate than the swiftest Horse in the World is able to go.  
I do not remember to have remarked any thing worthy the troubling you with, upon the way from Mont Cene until you come the length of Momilian, except only that the Inhabitants near the Alps, are troubled with a certain Disease called Bronchocele, which is an outward swelling in their Throats from the Chin downward, sometimes to the middle of their Breast, so that they appear at first to have no Neck or Chin, but one continued Thing from their Mouth downward. It is exceedingly hard and easily affected with Cold; the cause of it is believed to be their continual Drinking of Snow-water, which runs continually from the Neighbouring Hills.  
Montmelian, is a Fortress of great strength upon the Borders of Savoye near to Daufin; it is the only considerable place for strength in all Savoye, & stands within 3 leagues of Chamberrie, & within 5 or 6 of Granoble, which is a Parliament Town, and the Capital City o● Daufine; as Chamberrie is of Savoye. 〈◊〉 the necessity of your occasions and you● Engagement to the Messenger oblige you not to go strait to Lions, it will be very proper to see Granoble, Anciently called Gratianopolis from the Emperor Gratian: not that he was the first Founder of it, but because he enlarged it much, and beautified it. It lies in a plain at the foot of the Hill Chelmont, and hath the River Isere on the one side, & Drac, which is an impetuous torrent on the other. A little beyond the Drac, there is a wonderful Curiosity to be seen; that is, a Fountain that burneth constantly. The Fields about the Town are exceeding Fertile, and carry good Wine, but the neighbouring Hills are so high, that you may see Snow all the days of Summer upon their Tops. The manufactory of Gloves and dressing of Skins of all sorts is much commended in this City.  
But the most considerable thing in all this Country to be seen is the great Charter-House, so called because the General of the Order is obliged to Reside here. It is a stately Monastery, but stands in the wildest place that ever my feet trod upon. The Reason they give for choosing this place is, because St. Bruno, the first Instituter of their Order, did penance here; It stands very near the Mount Chelmount, being three Miles distant from Granoble by a continual ascent. These three leagues will take you eight or nine good Hours riding, for in many places it is not safe to ride, and you must be forced to walk a foot. About the midway there stands a little inconsiderable Village of 4 or 5 Houses, where it will be fit to repose a little; you will get Bread and Wine, and it's forty to one but you may meet with some good piece of sanglier, which abounds upon the Hill; being it is for the most part covered with Trees. When you come within a Mile of the House, you meet with a great Port and a Porter to wait upon it, who I suppose shuts it in the Night time. Within the Port there is a Bridge over a great Cleft, within, which runs a little Rivulet; there is no possibility of entering any where on that side, but by this Port, from which you ascend still to the Monastery, but, the way is easy, and all within the top● of the Hills covered with Oakes, Beeches, and Firr-Trees; within half a Mile of the Monastery or some less, stands their Stables, Garnels and other Office-Houses, which indeed are stately and well appointed, for there▪ they have lay-brothers of all Trades that serve to their purpose, and to this place it is that your Horses are sent back from the Monastery to be ●eept till your going away, and if by chance any of your own or Horse-Furniture had been broken by the way, or your Horses lost a Shoe, they will be all repaired next Morning without your desiring it. They have good store of Hay, and have made several Closes near to the Monastery, (which stands on that side of the Hill that hangs to the South-west, and consequently has most of the Sun for making of Hay,) having felled down all the Wood that grew upon them. When you Arrive at the Monastery, you alight from your Horses and then the Porter desires you to stay until he call the Perfect, who presently comes and informs himself of your Names, Qualities, Country, and the Occasion of your coming (for most part come out of Devotion, and they be but few Strangers that come for Curiosity, but however all are welcome,) which being done he craves you Patience to acquaint the General, but he very soon returns to conduct you to your apartement, only you must leave your Swords and Pistols with the Porter at the Gate. The Monastery is very large, and they have a different apartment for most Nations. We were carried into one that was very convenient, being a large Room wanscoted about with Firr-●●ords; and for Firing, every Log of Wood they put on, is like the End of a Ships-Mast. Our Beds for the most part were at the sides of the Room within the Wal, all boarded abou● like a Ships cabin; and for Courtens having two folding leaves, which you may shut or leave open at pleasure. Upon our first Arrival into this Room, we were presented with a Collation of very good Wine, Bread, Butter and Cheese; and then a Guide given us to conduct us up the Hill, yet half a Mile further, to see St. Bruno's Chapel, that stands in the place where he did his Penance for many Years together, as they will more particularly inform you, & as you return they will let you see another Chapel Dedicated to our Lady. By that time you are returned to the Monastery it will be time to Sup, and then according to your number you will be treated with more or fewer Dishes. We were only six in Company, and we had above 30 Dish of Meat, but there was not above three or four Varieties, except in the way of dressing; & for that they are admirable. I believe we had at least a Dussen of different dishes of Eggs, all prepared in different manners; the rest were a few Fishes and Fritatoes, for seeing they never eat Flesh themselves, it cannot be expected they should give it to any other Body within their Monastery. The next Morning the Perfect conducts you thorough the House, shows you the different Apartments, and particularly to us was shown that of the English Nation, which they used to Assign for them in former times, but now because of their defection from the Faith, they have given it to the Germane Nation. They show you painted about the Walls the several Torments & Deaths inflicted upon those of thei● Order in England, in the time of King Henry the 8. & Queen Elizabeth. They let you see the Church, the Library, the Refectory, the Religious Cells, the Kitchen, (which is the best I have seen in France after that of the Jesuits at L●-Flesch,) and last the Cellars, which are well enough furnished, but nothing so well as those at Naples of the same Order. If any Gentleman be desirous to see the General, and speak with him, it will be granted him, and he will find him very Civil. All this being done you Breakfast, the Perfect waits upon you to the Gate, where your Horses attend you, and your Arms are delivered you, & so leaveing a little Drink-Money to the Servant's, (about a Crown a Head for Gentlemen,) you take leave and return again to Granoble. I must only add that all this Hill over there is excellent Herbarizing.  
From Granoble to Lions, you have a Matter of 15 leagues, in which there is little considerable.  
From Chamberrie to Lions there is 16 leagues, but nothing considerable upon the way; save only that within 2 Miles of Chamberrie you have only the Gabelette to pass, which is a very steep and high Mountain in several parts precipicious, especially on the Savoy side, yet you mount that side on your own Horses, and must carry along with you from Chamberrie Porters to carry you down the Hill, on the French side. I think you will pay but half a Crown for your two Porters, and you will find them as dexterous in their Trade, as those of Mount Ceni's.  
Some that have a mind to see Geneva pass the Alps, either by the Mount Sampion or the Mount St. Bernard, and so from Geneva either go strait to Lion's, which is a Matter of 26 Leagues, or else from Geneva go to Chamberrie, which is 12 Leagues, and from thence to Montmelian, the Grand Charterhouse, and so pass by Granoble to Lions. This is all that occurs to my Memory at present, concerning this Journey.  
In truth I am very sensible that it might have been much more accurate, had I been so diligent as to write of it in the time I made the Journey, when all things were fresh in my Memory. But that occasion being lost; I had no more left me, but to Recollect my Thoughts as carefully as I could to satisfy your desire, & the rather because I am hopeful, it will provoke you to make a more diligent Inquiry after all things, and to set them down Orderly, without trusting your Memory. This I conjure you to do; and assure yourself, it is one of the greatest things I will expect from you at your return. I confess, I have been somewhat prolix in my narration, but, if you consider the vastness and Fertility of the Subject, you will find few Towns in Italy, of which there might not have been more said than I have said of them all; & this you will easily find to be true if you please to make a Collection of those Books that are written of the Antiquities, and Curiosities, of each of them: For there is scarcely any Town in Italy, where, you may not find such Books. However such as it is I offer it you, and wish it were better for your sake, for whole service it was only undertaken; and if it prove acceptable and useful to you, I have my design. I shall o●lie add that it had been sent you much sooner, had not the Necessity of an Extraordinary attendance upon this Winter-Session, so often withdrawn me, together with the other Duties of my Profession, which I was Obliged to perform.  
Postscript.  

A List of those Things, which I desire The Laird of LEVINGSTONE to procure for me in Italy.  

1. All the new Books of Physic, Botany, and that any way relate to the History of Nature, that have been printed since the 64. and of Old Books, Aldrovandi's works at Bolognia, together with any other he can meet with, that was contained in the first List I gave him when he parted from hence, as also at Rome I desire him to buy me a Book in Taildouce, containing all the Antiquities, Palaces Statues, Churches, Villas, Fountains, Pyramids etc. in Rome. I would have it of the best, largest and finest Impression; and if you cannot get them so in one Book, I would have you take them in several Fashions as you can best find them: You may inquire appresso Giacomo di Rossi a la Pace in Roma. Also Caroli Avantij, Paraleipomena Botanica, if it be to be had, for I never saw it, only he promiseth it in his Notes in Caenam baptist Fiera 4. Patav 1649.   

2. At Florence I desire that you would remember to procure me a small Parcel of all the Varieties of Stones you can come by. The ready way will be to inquire for them at the Stone Cutters in the great Duke's Chapel at St. Laurence Church, or else at the Workmen that work in Stone for Cabinets at the Duke's Gallery. But above all, of these two kinds of Stone that are most common at Florence; whereof the one Represents Trees, and Forests; the other, Towns and Villages: I would have of each two or three large handsome choice Pieces, fit to be put in Frames. I would likeways have of those pieces of Crystal that are extraordinary for Colour, or otherways that have any Substance, contained within them; as water, etc. you may possibly find such, either at Florence or Milan, or it may be Venice or any other where. There is likeways a Stone called Lapis Fungiferus; It is a Stone that being placed in the Ground produces large Mushrooms; I had one of them given me at Rome, but unhappily lost it at London. To the best of my Memory, they are commonly found about Praenestae, commonly called Palestrina. Some honest Virtuoso, & particularly Padre Barilieri alla Minerva in Roma, will tell you where they may be got; I have likeways heard that they were in many places of the Kingdom of Naples.   

3. I humbly desire likeways some parcel of Antieails, some●three or 4 of the Antiche Lucerne of the best fashioned and best preserved. In my time there was 2 or 3 in the Piazza navona, that sold such things, and particularly an Old Man, whose Name I have forgot, that had whole Cabinets full of Intalio's and Medales. I desire likeways some Intalios that be truly Antique: the excellency of the Impression, and the deepness of it commends them, especially if they be well preserved, & neither the Stone nor impression spoiled. I would likeways have some Brass-Medals of the 1st. or second Magnitude, that be well preserved. There are many things that commend Medals to be good, particularly, 1. to be Antique and not Counterfeit. 2. To be well preserved, 3ly. to have a good Reverse; & it is to be observed, that the differences of reverses make different Medals, altho' they be of the same Emperor, or Consul, and of the same Magnitude, and it is likeways to be observed that those Emperors who Reigned longest had the greatest Variety of Medals; As for Reverses, the best are such as are least common; as for example a Chariot, a Triumphal Arch, a Trophy of War, a Man or a Woman's Head for the Reverse, two Faces on one side, a Galley, the Instruments of Sacrifice, an Amphitheatre, a Mousolium, an Elephant, a Lion, a Dolphin, and many more such that I cannot remember of; as also a Reverse charged with many Figures, can never be ill, nor one that relates any known History, as one that I have of Titus Vespasian with a Palmtree, a Slave sitting at the foot of it, with this Word, Judea capta for the Reverse thereof. But I doubt mine is only a Copy, and not truly Antique. I would likeways have a few Chamaeo's providing they be not dear; that which commends them is to have the Figures well done, and to be well preserved. The preciousness of the Stone doth likeways contribute much to their Value. In all there, that is, Medales, Intaglias, Chameo's, I would be content that ye did bestow 4 or 5 Pistols for me, which tho' I confess it be a very small Sum; yet you may chance to make a better purchase for it at Rome than any where else for a far bigger. Lastly, to conclude this Article, I would fain have some of the Ancient Glass, which through time looks now as it were Opal; Nothing will commend it so much as to find an entire vase or Phiol, for example a Lachrimatory, such as the Ancients used to cape their own or their Friends Tears in.   

4ly. There is the Face of a Hill near to Rome, as I remember, it is at the End of the Janicular, not far from Cardinal Francis Barherin's Villa, that is full of Shells of all sorts Petrified, or if ye please to call them Stones, resembling all the Species of Shells. By what means they came there, I leave you to find out▪ only I would fain have you to make good Provision of all the Varieties of them, and these as entire as you can get them.   

5ly. At Naples I would desire you to buy me a couple of black Sashes, Network such as they use. I think the best use to cost 3 or 4 Crowns a Piece, and I would have the best. I would likeways have you to buy me at Luca, or at Florence, I think you may do it in either, two of the largest quilted Silk Stomagers, or Breastplates, such as people use to wear there in Winter time. And at Rome I entreat you to buy me a Dozen a pair of Gloves, Concia di Roma, not exceeding a Testone, or 4 Julio's a pair: and at Venice two pound, of the best Old Theriae. At Bolognia a Dozen or two of Soap-Balls.   

6ly. All the Natural Curiosities that you can meet with, with your conveniency of Fowls, Fish, Infects or other Animals, the manner of Ordering, of which I have written to you formerly. I confess these you sent me from Paris were the best ordered I ever saw; but besides that it is too Expensive, you will not always meet with the Opportunity, of having them so ordered; therefore it will be sufficient, if the Skins (being carefully taken of, and stuffed with Flax, or Cotten) be so preserved: But for the smaller sort of Infects, their whole Bodies will easily preserve; the Guts being first taken out. Of this kind I would have these viz. a Viper or two both the kinds of Tarantula, viz. the Stellio, which is a kind of Lizard Curiously, Spotted, but accounted Poisonous; and the other true one, which is shaped like a Spider: and what others you think fit.   

7ly. Be pleased to make me some purchase of Outlandish Curiosities, especially, such as are from the Levant, of whatsoever Sort that you can meet with. Buy me at Venice, a Stiletto, and a pair of Armenian Shoes, shod with Iron on the heels, such as they use to wear undermost.    
For the rest I refer you to the Itinerary, and shall earnestly entreat you to do me the Favour to Remember all my desires, as far as may Stand with your Convenience, for further I should be very sorry to trouble you. I do likeways with much Earnestness Recommend to you those Particulars, concerning myself, mentioned in such Places of the French Itinerary (which I sent you last Year) as you have not yet seen. Thus, once again wishing you all happiness,  
I Remain Your &c.