THE FRENCH PERFUMER. Teaching the several ways of Extracting the Odours of Drugs and Flowers, and Making all the Compositions of Perfumes for Powder, Wash-balls, Essences, Oils, Wax, Pomatum, Paste, Queen of Hungary's Rosa Solis, and other Sweet Waters. The Manner of Preparing Sweet Toilets, Boxes, etc. with the Preparations and Use of Perfumes of all kinds whatsoever. ALSO How to Colour and Scent Gloves and Fans. Together with the Secret of Cleansing Tobacco, and Perfuming it for all sorts of Snuff, Spanish, Roman, etc. Done into English from the Original Printed at Paris. LONDON, Printed for Sam. Buckley at the Dolphin over against St. Dunstan's Church in Fleetstreet, 1696. TO THE READER. THE Origine of Perfumes is as Ancient as the Creation of the World; when the whole Earth was a delicious Garden, exhaling the sweetest Smells. Art that never Injures Nature, but rather improves it, in succeeding Times collected what that good Mother had scattered in several places to Compound agreeable Mixtures of Sweets: After innumerable Observations upon repeated Experiments, this Art is brought under infallible Rules to its utmost Perfection; by help of such Rules which I had learned from the best Masters, and made use of a long time, I have collected the Secrets which I now present to the Public. This Treatise is not designed to instruct Artists, who have particular Rules of their own, which (though by different Methods) lead them to the same end, but compiled for the Public Good, which with me is the best reason for doing it, and for which therefore I shall not ask their Pardon. Persons of Quality and Condition will find here in a short View, a Variety of Sweets for various Uses, if they can afford themselves leisure enough to gather Flowers at their Country Seats, and make use of them for Perfumes, they may not only agreeably divert themselves in the Operation, but likewise save the Expense of buying them at Extravagant Rates in Shops: The Fair Sex especially, whose natural Graces receive so Charming a Lustre from Neatness, will find enough in this Treatise to gratify their Curiosity. If any Difficulties arise, they are explained in my Advertisements, I would not insert them through the body of the Book, because the Reader might more easily find them there, and not be puzzled in preparing my Receipts. Those who are read in the Holy Scriptures, will not disapprove of my Design, if they consider that there was in the Old Testament an Altar whereon they burned nothing else but Perfumes; and that it is expressly written in several places in the Bible, that God delighted in Sweet Smells. Scentings prescribed, and so exactly observed in the ancient Law, are further Instances of the Antiquity and use of Perfumes. Solomon had a great many Women who prepared Perfumes for his own use: The Queen of Sheba, who came so far to see that Wise King, presented him with several Perfumes. Some of the Offerings made to our Saviour by the Wise Men were Perfumes; and Mary Magdalene could not express her love better to Jesus Christ, than in washing his Feet with Sweet Ointment. But to leave the Holy History, and mention the Esteen they are in our days, our present King has diverted himself very often in seeing Mr. Martial compose in his Closet several Sweets which His Majesty was pleased to wear about himself. The Prince of Conde, whose Memory will be ever precious to France, pleased himself often in seeing Mr. Charles Scent Snuff, and make other Perfumes which His Highness made particular use of. The Powder that we call a la Marechale took its name from my Lady Marechale d' Aumont, who delighted in preparing it. Whosoever would imitate these great Persons, and pass the time away in making Perfumes, etc. will find great assistance in this little Book, and I assure them they will succeed infallibly, provided they follow my Directions, for there is not one Receipt in it which I have not tried myself with all the Success imaginable. THE TABLE. A List of the Ingredients of Perfumes, and Remarks on them Page 1, etc. Advertisements concerning the Principal Compositions. 9 Powders. POwder of Common Roses for Hair 23 Powder of Musked Roses 24 Powder of Orange flowers ibid. Powder of Jasmin 25 Powder of Jonquils' ibid. Powder of Ambret 26 Powder to perfume other Powders ibid. Powder washed with Brandy 27 Powder of Violets or Iris Powder ibid. Powder of Moss of Oak called Cyprus Powder 28 Powder of Frangipane 29 Another sort of the same 30 Another sort 31 The manner of perfuming Powder as they do it at Montpellier ibid. Fine Powder a la Marechale, good to make Pasts for Beads and Medals 32 Wash-balls. THE manner of cleansing Soap 32 Common Wash▪ balls 33 Another sort 34 Another sort 35 Neroly Wash-balls 36 Bolognia Wash-balls 37 Bolognia Balls the best 38 Wash-balls well perfumed 40 Another sort 41 Benjamin-water the best 42 Sponges prepared for the Face 43 Essences and Oils perfumed with Flowers. HOW to make Essences of Flowers 44 Essence of Millefleur, or of several sorts of Flowers 46 Olive Oil perfumed with Flowers 47 Oil of Sweet▪ Almonds perfumed, and Paste to wash hands ibid. Essence of Neroly 49 Essence of Bergamot or Cedra 50 Essence of Orange strong ibid. Essence of Citron or Lemon 51 Of Pomatums. POmatum perfumed with Flowers 53 Pomatum good to refresh the Complexion, and take off the redness of the Face 55 Another sort of Pomatum very good for the Face 56 Another sort very fine for the Face 57 Pomatum for the Lips 58 Receipt to make a liquid Paste of Almonds to wash hands without Water. 59 Opiate in Powder to cleanse the Teeth 60 Another sort ibid. Another sort ibid. Receipt to make liquid Opiate 61 Perfumes good for the Mouth. ESsence of Amber 62 Essence of Hippocras 63 Cachoo perfumed with Amber very good for the Mouth 64 Pastils perfumed good to eat 65 Excellent Hippocras perfumed 66 Rosa Solis, or perfumed Liquor ibid. Another Liquor perfumed 67 Perfumed Sweet Waters. ANgel-water boiled 68 Another sort 69 Millefleur-water, or of all sorts of Flowers ibid. Angel-water distilled in Mars balneo 70 Carnation-water 71 Cinnamon▪ water ibid. Thyme-water ibid. Orange▪ flower-water distilled in a cold Still 72 Rose-water 73 Queen of Hungary's water ibid. Pastils to burn. ORdinary Pastils 74 Pastils of Roses made into Wax-Candles 75 Spanish Pastils ibid. Portugal Pastils 76 Receipt to dissolve Gum to make the Paste for Pastils 77 Receipt to make perfumed Paste for Beads and Medals ibid. Another sort 78 Another sort ibid. Another sort ibid. Another sort 79 Receipt to prepare Gums for the said Pasts ibid. Gross Powders a la Marechale, and how to use them. GRoss Powder a la Marechale 80 Another sort ibid. Another sort 81 Receipt for Sweet Bags 82 Rose buds 83 Orange-flowers dry ibid. Sweet Bags 84 Another sort ibid. Sweet Bags to wear about you. 85 Another sort ibid. Another sort 86 Baskets of Ozier Perfumed to keep Lady's clothes in 87 Pockets Perfumed for Ladies 88 Periwig Boxes Perfumed ibid. Perfume for the wrong side of Taby 89 Perfumed Boxes to keep Linen in ibid. Perfumed Toilets 90 Sweet Toilets as they are Perfumed at Montpellier 91 Another sort 92 Perfume to wear about you 93 Another sort ibid. Another sort 94 Another sort 95 Another sort ibid. Another sort ibid. Perfumes of Smoak ibid. Cotton Perfumed 96 Another sort ibid. Another sort ibid. To Perfume a Room with Smoke 97 Another way ibid. Treatise of Perfumed Skins and Gloves. THE manner of Washing Skins for Fans, and Perfuming them with Flowers. 98 How to Wash all sorts of Skins and Perfume them. 100 The Manner of Perfuming and Preparing Gloves 101 Perfumes for Gloves or Skins, before you Perfume them with Flowers 102 Perfumes made with Musk. 103 Another sort. 104 Perfume of Ambret ibid. Perfume of Rome. 105 Another sort. 106 Spanish Perfume 107 Perfumed Gloves or Skins with Amber 108 Preparations to Oil Gloves on the wrong side 109 The Manner of Colouring Skins and Gloves 110 Mixture of Colours. ISabella lively 111 Isabel Pale ibid. Nut Colour ibid. Light Nut Colour. ibid. Brownish Nut Colour ibid. Amber Colour ibid. Gold Colour ibid. Flesh Colour. 112 Straw Colour ibid. Brown Colour ibid. Light Brown ibid. Frangipane Colour ibid. Light Frangipane ibid. Olive Colour ibid. Wood Colour ibid. Treatise of Snuff. THE Manner of Making Snuff. 113 How to Cleanse Snuff. ibid. Another Way 115 How to Colour it Yellow and Red ibid. Snuff Perfumed with Flowers 117 Another Way 118 Buds of Roses, to Perfume Snuff 119 Snuff Perfumed with a great many sorts of Flowers 119 The Manner of Making Snuff of different sorts of Grains 120 Fine Spanish Snuff 120 How to Perfume Snuff with several Perfumes of different Smells 121 Snuff Perfumed with Essence of Bergamote ibid. Pongibon Snuff. 121 Snuff Perfumed with Spanish Perfume 124 Spanish Snuff Perfumed with Perfume of Rome ibid. Maltha Snuff 125 Ambered Snuff 126 A LIST of the Ingredients of Perfumes. Ambergreice. Black Amber. Pure Musk. Musk-bladders. Dutch Civet. English Civet. Common Benjamin. Fine Benjamin. The cleanest Benjamin. Storax liquid. Storax dry. Balm of Peru. Calamus. Souchet. Cinnamon. Cloves. Nutmegs. Iris. Coriander. Labdanum. Makanet. Starch. The Wood of Sendal Citrain. Wood of Roses. Wood of St. Luce. Spirit of Wine. Essence of Cloves. Essence of Cinnamon of Haure de grace. Essence of Dutch Cinnamon. Oil of Ben. Oil of Sweet-Almonds. olive-oil. gum-arabic. Gum-Adragant. Cachoo. White-Sugar. White▪ Wax. Coral. Syrup of Cherries. Orkanet. Soap of Genoa. The Flowers are, Common Roses. Musk Roses. Roses of Province▪ Hyacinth▪ Violets. Jonquils'. Daffodils. Orange flowers. Flowers of Jasmin. Tuberoses. Cacies. Remarks on the Principal Drugs mentioned before, to know whether they be Good or no. Of Amber. AMber being a very dear Drug,▪: is necessary for the Buyers to know it well; which will be very easy if you observe, that when Amber is vented, or has lost its virtue, it is full of little white holes: You must also take care that it should have no smell contrary to its nature. To make trial of its goodness, heat a Needle and prick the Amber with it; if the smoke is sweet, the Amber is good. The same Rule may be observed for the Black Amber. Several Authors have written of Amber, I need not be large upon it; it is commonly conjectured that it is form at Sea, and is a kind of Froth tossed by the Waves to the shore, and which after a while is hardened. Of Musk, and Bladders of Musk. MUSK is an Animal found in hot Countries, who is hunted till quite weary, and so is taken alive; being taken they prick him in several parts of his Body with a sharp Needle poisoned at the point; the Venom of the Needle hinders the Blood from coming out; on the contrary in every pricked place rises a Bladder of Blood; and that the Blood should not return into the Body, they split the Belly of the Beast, and draw the smallest Guts out of it, with which they tie the Bladders of Blood; afterwards they keep them in the Sun till the Blood is coagulated; then they cut off all the Bladders, which are called Bladders of Musk; and the true Musk is nothing else but the Blood which is in them, as I said before. The Bladders are not the Kidneys of the Musk, nor the Kidneys of a Polecat, as many imagine, but the Bags of Blood made as before. The Kidneys of Polecats are good for nothing, they have indeed a Smell, but weak and useless: And as for the Musk, if it be good, it must break easily with your Fingers like dry Blood, which is not hard however, for when it is too hard and too dry, it is a certain sign that it is too old, and consequently has lost its Virtue, and is good for nothing. To preserve it, you must keep it close in a leaden Box, which Box should be enclosed in two or three other leaden Boxes to keep it fresh and good. Of Civet. THE Civet-Cat is a little bigger than a Polecat, and naturally very Melancholic: They keep her in an Iron Cage, and those who keep them make them Sweat, by placing a great many Chafing-dishes full of Fire about their Cages, they Sweat presently, and as their Sweat thickens, they gather with an Ivory Knife all the Sweat which is under the Chest, and between the Legs, which Sweat we call Civet. When it is too old, it looks brown and is not good; it must be of a yellow golden Colour, and of a strong and yet pleasant Smell to be good. But above all, it must not draw into Threads, for then there is Hony mingled with it. To preserve it, put it in a Glass, and the Glass in a leaden Box with Cotton about it. Of Benjamin. THE Common Benjamin is ordinarily very brown, the best is of a Pearl colour, full of white and big Spots, clear shining, the Smell very strong and clean, much like lemond's preserved with Hony: They say it comes from Arabia, and grows in the same Mountain where Frankincense is found. It is hard in a Stone as we see it. The Ancients call it Myrrh. Of Storax. THE Liquid Storax is always good; as for the dry Storax, you must not choose the driest, but when you will use it in Powder, else the softer is the better; for when it is new it breaks like Gingerbread, and then it smells best. It comes also from Arabia, and is a Gum dropping from a Tree: The Smell is excellent, especially in Compositions made to burn. Of Balm of Peru. THE true Balm of Peru is known by the strength of its Smell; and to be good, the Smell must be strong and pleasant. You may easily know when it is true, and not adulterated, by dipping in it a little Straw, and letting it drop in a Glass of Water; if the drop falls to the bottom, without leaving any thing at the top, the Balm is excellent. Of Macanet. YOU must break the Grains of Macanet, if they look yellow it is a sign that it is old; for to be good and new, the inside of the Grains must be white, and then the Smell is much Sweeter. Of Spirit of Wine. TO make an Experiment whether the Spirit of Wine be good, pour some in a Spoon, and mix with it Gunpowder, put Fire to it, and if the Powder take Fire and burn away the Spirit, it is very good. You may try it also in pouring some in a Spoon, then Fire it, let it burn in a close place without Air, and if the Spoon is wet after the burning, it is a certain sign that the Spirit of Wine is not good. Of Starch. THE Starch which we make use of in Sweet-powder for Hair, is not the same which the Laundresses use, there is this difference, that the taste of this is fat and greasy, and the former is mighty dry; consequently the best Starch is always the whitest and the driest. Of Soap of Genoa. Perfumer's must always make use of the best Soap, which is the Soap of Genoa, it must be hard and dry, for if it is moist, and if you keep it long, it will waste away, and will never make good Wash-balls. I'll say no more of the rest of the Drugs mentioned before, every body being capable to know whether they have their natural Smell. Advertisements concerning the Principal Compositions. Of Powders for Hair. ALL white Powders are made of Starch, and there is no more Preparation for Powder of a high Price, than for Powder of a low Rate; there is nothing else to be done, but to beat it and sift it very fine; you must only be very curious when you Perfume it with Flowers▪ because the goodness of Sweet-powder depends on it: But more particularly the Powder of Orange-flowers, and of Common-roses; for if you are longer in sifting it than I prescribe in its place, the Powder may be spoiled, nay it will be so hot▪ that you can hardly endure your hand in it. The Flower will turn into Dung, and render the Starch damp, and turn into little lumps, and will smell musty; which may be avoided if you observe the Rules I give in its proper place. However, if it happen that the Powder should be spoiled, you must speedily use this Remedy. Sift it, break with your hands the little lumps, sift presently all the Flowers and add fresh ones; sift them again every three hours, and your Powder will be good again. There is no danger in leaving these Flowers, because they will not be hot, but have a care to leave them no longer than I prescribe in another place. You ought to know, that all sorts of Flowers are not capable to communicate their Smell to the Powder, Orange-flowers only; common Roses, Musk Roses, Janquils and Jasmin are of that nature; other Flowers have a Smell too weak; Tuberose seems to have a strong Smell, but its quality is not proper, and is useless to Perfume Powder. Powder of Cyprus is made of the Moss of Oaks, the Powder of Violet of the Root of the Flower Iris; the Powder of Franchipane is made in mixing Powder of Cyprus with Starch, both of equal quantity. All these Powders must be made in the Summer, because the other Seasons being moist, the Powders will participate of their moisture, you must keep them close in a dry place. Observe, that the Moss which is made use of in preparing the Powder of Cyprus, is not the same that grows at the Root of the Oaks, and which is green and like Fringe; but 'tis the Moss which grows upon the Boughs of old Oaks, it is white and in Leaves. Of Wash-balls. THE best Wash-balls were made formerly at Bolognia in Italy, for the Bolonais had found the Secret to prepare and perfume the Soap so well, that no body a long time attempted to find it out; but they have been of late so negligent, and we have applied ourselves that way with so good Success, that we have found the way to make them better than they ever did; insomuch that though the Wash▪ balls which are commonly sold for Bolognia Balls were never made there, yet they are at least as good: 'Tis true we make use of their Soap, but we perfume it after the manner you'll see. As for the other sorts of Wash-balls, the way to make them consists only in preparing well the Soap as I prescribe, for the Soap being of itself of an ugly Smell, you must needs clean it before you perfume it: 'Tis the best Advice I can give on that Point. You need not to clean the Soap for the ordinary Wash-balls, the Essences you put in will penetrate them throughly. If you desire to mark your Wash-balls with a Seal, they must be rolled first and stiffened: And if you will gild them, stay till they are dry, then wet a little the mark of the Wash-ball with Cotton dipped in Sweet-water, lay the Wash-ball upon the leaf of Gold, and fasten it with a little dry Cotton▪ Of Benjamin-water. A Great many undertake every day to prepare Benjamin-water, and very few succeed in it; they generally fail in one thing, viz. They put too many Drugs in it: As for Example, They imagine that without Litharge it will not whiten the Water, but it is a great Error. Observe exactly what I say in my Receipts, and you will make it excellently. I only advise you to prepare it in the Summer where the Sun shines, for if you make it in the Winter it will prove dangerous, because if the Bottle breaks, as it happens sometimes, the Spirit of Wine takes fire, and may cause great Damage. Essences and Oils perfumed with Flowers and natural Essences. THE Essences of Flowers which we use for Hair are not true Essences, and we call them Essences, because they are prepared with Oil which takes perfectly the Odour of Flowers, and only to distinguish them from the common Oil. The common Oils are the Oil of Sweet Lemons, olive-oil perfumed with Flowers, which we make use of for Periwigs. But the Oil called Ben, whose figure is triangular, and whose Kernel renders an Oil so fine, that it has no manner of Smell; having no Smell at all of itself, it takes the Smell extremely well of the Flowers you mix with it, even of the most sweet and weak Smell, and so naturally, that there is no difference between the Smell of the Flower, and that of the Oil: Provided you prepare it well, you'll see in its place how to Perfume them. To speak now of the Natural Essences, They are true Essences, because they come from the Flower or the Fruit they have the name of. Natural Essences are▪ The Essence of Neroli, called otherwise the Quintessence of Orange-flowers; the Essence of Cedra, called Bergamotte; Essence of Citron; Essence of Orange strong or small: The Essence of Neroli is drawn from the Water of Orange-flowers, and is made of the Fruit which is in the Flower: The Essence of Cedra is produced of the drops you squeeze out of the Peels of Citron Bergamotte: Essence of Citron is drawn from the Lemons distilled, and that of Orange from Oranges distilled. You have now the difference between Essences and Oils: The Flowers which we may use in our Climate to make Essences and Oils for Hair and Periwigs, are Jasmin, Orange flowers, Tuberose, Jonquil, Musk-roses, because they are most common, and have the strongest Smell, the other Flowers have a Smell too weak: Every body knows the Sun gives the strong Smell to the Flowers, therefore we cannot make use of all sorts of Flowers as in hot Countries. Of Pomatums Perfumed with Flowers. POmatums Perfumed with Flowers are not good for the Face, but only for Hair; they are not now so much used as they have been formerly, the Oils are more convenient: I must say however, that if Oils are more convenient for Periwigs, Pomatums are more fit to clean women's Heads, and at the same time to nourish the Hairs, and so they are always very useful. If you will have your Pomatum, take the very Smell of the Flowers; it is necessary to clean well with Water the leaf of the Hog's Fat which it is prepared withal; observe that chiefly. Of Perfumes for the Mouth. AMber is extraordinary good for the Stomach, too much Musk is offensive to the Mouth, so the less you can put in your Compositions it is the better: Remember to put no Civet, it is very hurtful to the Mouth. Of Sweet-waters. ANgel-waters are made after several ways, which come to the same thing, if you remember all the Drugs which compose them, and know the quantity, as you will learn by my Receipts, you may make it as good as you please, in using more or less Drugs. You must only observe, that if you make it in a close Copper▪ pot, it will be thick and muddy; but if you distil it in an Alembick it is clear like Rock-water, though it has the same Smell as the other. The Queen of Hungary's Water cannot be made here so good as at Montpellier, because 'tis made there of Rosemary-flowers, which are there in great Plenty: However the Water we make with Rosemary-leaves is very good, and has the same Virtue. Concerning Waters made of Flowers: There is only Orange flowers and Roses you can make Water of, all other sorts are adulterated. Several have tried to make Jasmin-water, but could not succeed; the reason why is easy to be found, A Flower to make Water of must have a good Body or Substance; else it must be a Flower of an Aromatical Tree, as Rosemary or Myrrh, whose Leaves you may distil, because they have a strong Smell. As for Example, Take Orange flowers or Roses, and rub your Hands with them, and they'll smell stronger than before: But on the contrary, If you do the same with Jasmin or Tuberose, they will be so far from communicating their Smell, that they'll be reduced into Dung, and will stink. By this you may judge, that though some pretend to sell Water made out of Carnations, there is no such thing, because that Flower has not strength enough to produce any; but because it smells much like Cloves, the Water made out of them, is sold for the Water of Carnations. Of Sweet Balls to burn. TO compose Pastils good for burning, you must not mix any thing with them, but what is fit to burn and smoke sweetly; therefore if you put in Drugs, they are as good as lost. As for Example, Put Civet in them, it will rather stink than smell well; and put a Grain of Civet in the Fire, it will stink, so will the Musk, but burn Amber, etc. it will Smoke a very fragrant Smell. Of gross Powders put in little Sweet Bags and Toilets. OBserve that all these sorts of Preparations, though different, have all relation one with another, because they are all of a strong Smell; and the best way to prepare them, is to mix all the Drugs with such Dexterity and Caution, that one can hardly distinguish which of all the Smells prevail; you'll know how to do it, if you read and follow the Directions I give in my Receipts, mixing more quantity of sweet and strong Smells with less quantity of weakest Smells; and if you have failed in your Composition, there is a remedy for it, in mixing more or less proportionably. Of Aromatic Herbs. THE Aromatic Herbs are not very necessary in Perfumes, but because some make use of them, I have prescribed how to prepare them, though I must confess, all the Pains you can take will never make them more Pleasant and Sweeter. This sort of Herbs keeping so well their Smell, that it is almost impossible to qualify them, we mix them with other Drugs which cannot be altered, or we make a sort of Preparation you'll see in our Receipts. Of Perfumes that we wear about us. ALL the Perfumes we wear about us, must be of sweet and pleasant Smell, use no great quantity of Musk nor Civet, and never without mixing them, for pure Musk makes one's Head ache, and the Civet alone is not Sweet, you must prepare them by the mixture of other Smells not so strong; read my Receipts. Of Preparations to perfume Gloves or Skins. THESE Preparations being made with the dearest and most precious Drugs, as Amber, Musk, Civet, Sweet-waters, Sweet Essences, etc. you must be very careful to mix nothing with them but strong Smells or Essences, for though these Perfumes are strong enough, it is certain that if they are mixed with other contrary Perfumes, they are presently spoiled and lose their Virtues: On the other side, All the Sweet Smells preserve themselves one with another; Perfumes made of them last for ever, when well prepared and used. To keep them Sweet a long time, they must be very well dressed and cleansed: 'Tis the chiefest thing. Of Tobacco. ONE of the hardest Receipts in Perfumes, is that of Perfuming Tobacco with Flowers; for Tobacco having a very strong Smell, must consequently be very well cleansed, and the strong Smell taken away, to be fit to take another Sweeter. And it is certain, that if you do not cleanse it extraordinary well, it will never take well the Smell of Flowers; or if it does, you'll be obliged to use as much more Flowers than it needs, besides the Smell will never last long: All other Perfumes you put in it, as Amber, Musk, Civet, will signify nothing, if your Tobacco is not perfectly clean, the Smell will never be pleasant; and the strong Smell of Tobacco will in a little while alter all other Perfumes. In short, It can never be good, therefore never be concerned if your Tobacco wastes in cleansing it, you will not lose much of it if you sift it in a strong fine Cloth; and you'll be sure that the Smell of it, when well perfumed, will keep a whole year sound and good. The ways how to do it are easy, as you'll see in the Treatise of Tobacco. The Time to gather Flowers. WHEN you will use Flowers for Gloves, Essences, Pomatums, Tobacco, or for any other Preparations, gather them in the Morning after the Sun has shined upon them one or two hours, and in the Evening two hours before the Sunsetting: Let the Orange-flowers be flowered and not in Buds; let them be very dry, not wet in the least, and wrap them in dry Paper, and not in Linen. The last Advice I give you, is, If you find that the quantity I prescribe in my Preparations is too great, it is easy to remedy it, in diminishing proportionably all things, I prescribe them after the same manner I practised myself. I do not speak a word in this Book of Paint, being persuaded that all sorts of Paints spoil the Face; I give some Rules only how to make Pomatums very curious, which you may without danger make use of, for they are very good, and do not Paint at all. Receipt of Powders for Hair. PUT a Pound of Rose-leaves to twenty Pounds of Starch-powder in a Box, mix them all together with your hands very well, and every four hours shake them well, that the Flowers should not heat; the next day at the same time you put them in the Box, sift them and put as many Roses again, and so for three times; all that while you must let the Box be open, from the first time you put the Flowers in, till you take them out, and your Powder will be made. Powder of Musked Roses. MUsked Roses being more scarce than common Roses, you must put the same quantity of Powder and of Musked Roses, and let them be well mixed, leaving the Flowers in the said Powder twenty four hours; after what time sift the Flowers, and put fresh ones, and do so three times; you need not to sift them again, for they will not heat. Take care your Box be very close. Powder of Orange-flowers. MIX a Pound of Orange-flowers with twenty Pounds of Starch-powder, let them be well mingled, and sift them twice a day at least, or else they will heat; and in twenty four hours you must sift your Flowers, and put fresh ones in the same quantity, and so for three times. If the Smell is not strong enough, renew them again, and your Powder will be good. Keep the Box close while the Flowers are in, and when there is none left. Powder of Jasmin. IN a Box where you have put twenty Pounds of Starch-powder, mix a thousand Sprigs of Jasmin, lay them even, make a Bed of Powder, and a Bed of Flowers, and let your Sprigs lie thus twenty four hours without touching them, for they will not heat; afterwards sift your Flowers, put fresh ones in the same quantity, and continue so for three days, your Powder will be good: If you will have the Smell a little stronger, add more Flowers to it proportionably. Powder of Jonquils'. THE Receipt I prescribed for Powder of Musked Roses, will serve for the Preparation of the Powder of Jonquils'. Take the quantity of Powder to the Proportion of your Flowers, so that your Jonquils be well mixed with your Powder, but not over much. Having lain 24 hours, sift your Flowers, and put fresh ones: Do so three days, and your Powder will be good. Powder of Ambret. TAKE five Pounds of Jasmin Powder, and the same quantity of Musked Roses Powder, mix them together, then fill a Sieve of that Powder, pour in the eighth part of an Ounce or two gros of Essence of Amber, and mix them together; then sift your Powder, but not the lumps made by the Essence, which you must take out, and put them in again, and sift them till the whole be dried and run through: Mix them all together, and your Powder is done. Though the white Powders are perfumed with Flowers, it is not enough, you must make another Perfume as hereafter to make them excellent, than nothing will be wanting. Perfumes to perfume other Powders. TAKE twelve Pounds of Ambret Powder, or of another sort if you will, put in a little Mortar half a gros of Civet of the bigness of a Sugar-plum, and beat them together: Add to it of that Powder, and pass it through the Sieve; beat again the Lumps that remain, and pass them with the same Powder; being sifted, beat a gros of Musk, then mix them well together, and your Powder will be made. You may mix two Ounces of that Powder with a Pound of Jasmin or Orange-flowers Powder, it will make a mixture of Smells very pleasant, and help the Flowers to give a better Smell. Powder cleansed with Brandy. POUR a Pint of Brandy in a Box, wherein there is ten Pounds of Starch-powder, mix them very well, and let them dry; being very dry, beat them, and pass them very fine through a Sieve. Powder of Violets, or of Iris. THERE is nothing else to be done, but to beat the Iris, and pass it through a Sieve: That Powder is very good for Hair, and smells naturally of Violets; there is no other of that Smell, because the Violet has not strength enough. Powder of Moss of Oak, called Powder of Cyprus. FIRST of all dip the Moss of Oak in a great quantity of Water, during three days at least; take it after that out of the Water, and squeeze it well; then wash it again for several times till the Water be clean; then take it out of the Water, squeeze it well, and dry it in the Sun: You must stir it every two hours while it dries, that it may not heat, and being very dry follow this direction. To beat it in Powder, fill your Mortar with the Moss, pour a glass of Water upon it, and beat it, it will reduce itself in Crumbs, which it could never do if it had not been so moistened: Being thus prepared, put it again to dry in the Sun, and being quite dry you'll beat it easily in a Mortar, and pass it through a Sieve very fine: So your Powder will be done. The last preparing of Powder of Cyprus used by good Perfumers, is to mix once or twice Flowers of Jasmin and Musked Roses after the same manner as in other Powders, it will not take for all that the Smell of Flowers as the Starch does, but make it more susceptible to take other Smells you will give to it. Powder of Frangipane. TAKE six Pounds of Orange-flowers Powder, and as many of Moss Powder of Oak, which you shall mix well together, then heat the bottom of a little Mortar, and the end of the Pestle pretty hot, that it may melt the Froth; pour in it an Ounce of Essence of Amber, and at the same time a handful of the said Powder, which you must mix well with the Pestle, adding to it as much Powder as can fill the Mortar; then put it all in a Bag, with more of the same Powder over it, which you must sift in a Box, that it lose not its strength; and you must put again into the Mortar all the Clods which the Essence has made, beating and mixing them as before, throwing more Powder: You shall continue so doing till the whole be wasted, than you must do this. Put in the Mortar half a gros of Civet, and a bit of Sugar as big as a Walnut, beat your Civet with the Sugar very small, put to it by degrees some Powder, stirring it with the Pestle, then turn it in a Sieve, sift it gently, then put into the Mortar again the lumps made by the Civet, beat them once more, throwing over some Powder as before, and you must continue to do so till the whole be very fine, then mix it all together, and your Powder will be excellent. That Powder is of pleasant Smell, and of Ashes colour, very good for all sorts of Colours of Hair. Another sort. MIX Powder of Moss or Cyprus with Starch-Powder in the same quantity, and put Flowers as you do to Orange and Jasmin-flowers Powder; and when you think fit, Perfume them with Amber and Civet, as 'tis said before, and it will be very good. Another sort. HAving observed one of the two last Receipts for the Powder of Frangipane, if you have a mind to have it Musked, instead of half a gross of Civet, to the same quantity of Powder put only eighteen Grains, and half a Gros of Musk, beat it small with a little Sugar, after the same manner you use it with the Civet, and the Smell will be extraordinary Sweet. How to perfume the Powder of Cyprus, or Moss of Oak, as they do at Montpellier. TAKE two Pounds of Powder of Moss of Oak cleansed with Flowers, as 'tis said in its place, infuse in it eighteen Grains of Civet with a little Sugar, as I said before; then put with it half a gros of Musk after the same manner, this being done, put it in a Box very close, it will be of an extraordinary fine Smell, a little will serve to Powder the Hair, and give it a sweet Smell. Fine Powder called a la Marechale, fit and very good to make Paste for the Beads of Necklaces. TAKE two Pounds of Moss of Oak, a Pound of Starch-Powder, an Ounce of Cloaves beaten, an Ounce of Calamus in Powder, two Ounces of Souchet, two Ounces of rotten Wood, mix the whole well together, and your Powder will be done. The rotten Wood must be of Oak, because being red, it gives a fine colour to the Powder. Of Wash-balls. How to cleanse Soap. TAKE a Cut of Soap, scrape it well▪ cut it in thin Slices, and put them in a great Kettle over the Fire, with four or five Pints of Water; stir it with a Stick till the Soap be quite melted, pour it afterwards in some Vessels, and let it lie several days till it be hard; then cut it as thin as you can, and let it dry till it be as hard as Wood; put it after that in some Vessels or Basins, and pour over it Brandy enough to allay it, you must throw some Salt in it and turn it, that the whole be well soaked; then let it dry again in the Air, being very dry, when you have occasion for your Wash-balls, you must soften as much as you want: You will find a Receipt how to soften it in this Treatise. Common Wash-balls. TAKE five Pounds of Soap, scrape it, put it in a Mortar, and beat it a long while, then handle and work well your Soap, that you may take out the little bits that have not been beaten, put your Soap into the Mortar again, mix in it two Pound of Starch-powder, an Ounce of Essence of Citron or of Orange, and about half a Pint of Macanet-water prepared, as I'll tell you by and by, stir the whole gently with the Postle, and beat it long enough to mix it well, and it is done; you need no more but to role your Paste as you will to make your Wash-balls: Let them dry if your Paste is too soft, it will harden of itself. Macanet-water is made thus: Beat four Ounces of Macanet in a Mortar, soak them in a Pint of Water no longer than from one day to another, strain the Water through a Linen Cloth, and squeeze the Macanet very well; you must after that allay with the same Water, two Ounces of Cerus beaten in Powder, add to it a handful of Salt, and you may use it as I said before. Another sort. AFter you have beaten five Pounds of Soap as before, and taken out the Lumps, you must put your Soap into the Mortar again, and throw into it two Pounds of Starch-powder, half a Pint of Macanet-water, prepared as I said before, a Spoonful of Oil of Aspic, half an Ounce of Orange or Citron, two Spoonfuls of liquid Storax prepared as hereafter, stir it all gently with the Pestle, beat it very well till the whole be well mixed together, and it is done. You must prepare the liquid Storax thus: Put an Ounce of Storax in an Earthen Pan, with half a Glass of Water, stir the Storax with a Spoon while it is melting, and being melted use it as I said. Another sort. MELT five Pounds of Soap, cut it in slices very thin, pour in a Pint of Citron-water, being well melted, strain it through a Linen Cloth not very fine, put to it two Pounds of Starch-powder, an Ounce of Essence of Orange or Citron, two Ounces of Cerus allayed with a Glass of Water, you must work your Paste well with your Hands till the whole be well mixed, and when your Paste is very stiff, role your Wash-balls of what bigness you please, and dry them. To Compose the Citron-water, you must cut in bits half a dozen of Lemons, old or new 'tis no matter, let them boil in a Pint of Water half an hour, then squeeze them through a Linen Cloth, and you may use that Water. Wash-balls of Neroly. TAKE eight Pounds of dry Soap, and cleansed as we said before, and put it in a Basin, pour in it Orange-flowers or Rose-water, as much as will cover the Soap to allay it well. You must take care to stir twice a day the Soap till it has soaked the Water and be soft again; keep it so till it is fit to be beaten, beat it then a long while, and work it well to take out the Clods which are left: Put your Soap into the Mortar again, put to it a Pound of Labdanum in Powder very fine, and two Ounces of Neroly, mix and stir them together gently with the Pestle; then beat the whole a long time to mix it well and 'tis done. If your Paste is too hard, pour a little Orange-flower-water, the Paste will be good, and being made stiff, role your Wash balls and dry them. Wash-balls of Bolognia. YOU must take three Bundles of common Wash-balls of Bolognia, beat them in a Mortar to Crumbs, than put them in a Basin, pour in the Basin Angel-water enough to cover the Paste, let it soak till it is soft, and that will be in two or three days, in the mean time stir it and turn it twice a day, and when all the Water is gone, and the Paste is hard and stiff, beat it a long while, then work it well to take out the Clods; afterwards divide your Paste into two even Cakes, then do this. Take half a Pint of Angel-water, and the same quantity of Rose-water, put in the little Mortar two gross of Musk, with a little of the Angel-water to dissolve it, beat it, pouring in always of that Water, then strain it through a Linen Cloth not too fine nor too course; scrape after that with a Spoon the Musk left in the Linen, and beat it again, pouring a little of the said Water, and continue so doing till the Musk be infused and melted with Angel and Rose-waters, wash the Linen with the same Water to cleanse and take away all the Musk: The whole being well mixed, put all the Water in a Glass▪ bottle, to use it as you'll see hereafter. Take one of the said two Cakes of Paste, which you must beat to bits in a Mortar, throw upon it a good handful of Labdanum-powder very fine, half an Ounce of Balm of Peru, a few drops of Essence of Neroly, about half a Pint of the said Water, stir and mix all gently with the Pestle; then beat it all together a long while to mix well the Paste and 'tis done. And as you have done to the first Cake, do the same to the other, and cover them together very close, that they may have time to take the Scent of the Sweets, than your Paste being stiff, role it as you please to make your Wash-balls, and dry them. Bolognia Wash-balls the best. TAKE three Bundles or little Boxes of Bolognia Wash-balls, beat them, and dip them in Angel-water enough to cover your Paste, as we said before: Besides Angel-water, add to it half a Pint of Benjamin-water, beat that Paste and turn it upside down twice a day, that the whole be well mixed, the Water being gone, and the Paste stiff, beat it afterwards, and work it well to take out the Clods; and the whole being reduced into a Paste, make two Cakes alike of it, then do this. Beat half an Ounce of Musk in a little Mortar, pouring in it Angel-water as before in the Receipt of other Wash-balls; at last infuse your Musk, beating and straining it through a Linen Cloth, with half a Pint of Angel and Rose-water, then use it thus, Take one of the two Cakes, beat them to bits in the Mortar, and pour over the Cake two Ounces of Balm of Peru, some drops of Essence of Neroly, a good handful of composed Powder, viz. a third of fine Powder a la Marechale, a third of Powder of Campane-root, a third of Labdanum-powder, and half a Pint of the abovesaid Water prepared with the Musk; mix the whole together very well, beat it a long while, and your Paste is made, the Smell of it will be very pleasant: Role your Wash-balls when your Paste is stiff; what you have done to one of the Cakes, you may do to the other. Wash-balls well perfumed. TAKE three Bundles of Bolognia ordinary Wash-balls, beat them in a Mortar, alloy them with Angel and Benjamin-water, as we said before; being beaten again and made in Paste, divide them in two Cakes alike, and prepare it thus: Beat very small half a gross of Civet in a little Mortar, with two Ounces of Balm of Peru, which you must drop in by degrees: Add to it two gross of Essence of Amber, some Essence of Cloves, and as much of Cinnamon; mingle the whole very well together, and keep it to use it thus. Put in the Mortar one of the two Cakes broken in bits, throw over two handfuls of prepared Powder, viz. a third of Labdanum-powder, a third of fine Powder a la Marechale, a third of Powder of Campane▪ root; put also to it half of that Composition, and half a Pint of Millifleur Water, half an Ounce of Essence of Neroly; mix the whole well together, and when you have beaten it long enough, to mingle it all very well, your Paste is made: You may use the same Receipt for the other Cake left. Another Receipt to perfume Wash-balls. TAKE three Bundles of the same Bolognia Wash-balls, beat them in a Mortar, dip them, and make a Paste as I said before, the Paste being divided into two even Cakes, break one in bits, put it in a Mortar with a handful of Labdanum-power, a handful of the dregs of the Angel-water, beaten in Powder, an Ounce of Balm of Peru, half an Ounce of Essence of Neroly, and half a Pint of Millifleur Water, mix the whole gently with the Pestle, then after you have beat it a long while, 'tis done: You may do the same to the other Cake of Paste. If you cannot have Bolognia Wash-balls, make use of Soap cleansed, as is prescribed in the beginning of this Treatise, it is very good for all sorts of Wash-balls. Take of it three or four Pounds or more instead of every Bundle of Bolognia Balls; and for want of Powders mentioned before in the Preparation of Wash-balls, you may make use of the Dregs of Angel-water beaten and sifted very fine through a Sieve, the Balls will be as good; observe that all the Powders must be very fine. Excellent Benjamin-water. PUT in a thick Glass-bottle a Pint of Spirit of Wine, and a Pint of Brandy, half a Pound of Benjamin, a quarter of a Pound of Storax▪ half an Ounce of Cloves, an Ounce of Cinnamon, and four Nutmegs, all well beaten; being in the Bottle, stop it well, and let it stand upon Sand in the Sun in the heat of the Summer for a Month, and 'tis done: Take it away when it Rains▪ and let the Bottle be very large, leaving an empty space of four Inches at least, or else the Spirit of Wine being hot, will certainly break the Bottle. If you think your Benjamin-water is not red enough at the time limited, that it should be enough, beat in a little Mortar some Orkanet of the bigness of a Bean, dissolve it with some of your Benjamin-water, pour it in the Bottle, and let it stand in the Sun two or three days, and 'tis done. A Receipt to prepare Sponges for the Face. CHoose the best and finest Sponges, cut what is superfluous about them, then dip them in Water a little while, wash them after that, and cut them well, changing Water till the last Water be very clean, then dry them▪ being dry dip them in Angel-water, or in Orange-flower-water, pour over them half a Spoonful of Essence of Amber, your Sponges having lain in Water a whole day, take them out, do not squeeze them much, and dry them; they are done. A Treatise of Essences and Oils perfumed with Flowers. How to make Essences of Flowers. IT is easy to draw Essences out of all manner of Flowers though they are of different sorts, for if you can make of one, you may make of all others. Here is a general Receipt for all the Flowers which have any Smell. Take a Deal Box of what bigness you please, Tin it within least the Wood should spoil the Smell of the Flowers, and soak up the Essence which drops in. Take wooden Frames so made, that they may go in the Box exactly, they must be two Inches thick, and round about full of Wire Pins. You must also have as many clothes as Frames, these clothes must be a little bigger than the Frames, that you may fasten them round the Frames and stretch them; by this Direction it is easy to Proportion the clothes to the Frames, and the Frames to the Box. The clothes must be of Cotton, and well washed in good Lie, they must be washed again in fair Water, then be well dried. Dip your clothes in Ben Oil, and let them soak up all the Oil they can; squeeze them a little, then stretch them over your Frames; lay the first Frame in the bottom of the Box with Jasmin or Orange-flowers, strew them even upon the Cloth, and lay another Frame over, continue so doing till you have laid in all your Frames, or till your Box be full; the Frames must be two Fingers thick, that the Flowers laid between two Frames be not squeezed at all, and by that means every Cloth will be full of Flowers over and under. Leave your Flowers in the Frames twelve hours, from Morning till Night, put fresh ones often, continue so doing for some days, till you think the Smell is strong enough. Then take your clothes off your Frames, fold them, role them, and tie them well with Pack-thread, that they are not loose, and press them in a Press to draw Oil out of them, and 'tis the Essence of Flowers. Observe that the Press must be Tinned over, lest the Wood soak the Essence Put under the Press Vessels very clean to receive the Essence, then fill Glass-bottle with it. Observe also that you cannot make it a Box but Essence of one sort of Flower at a time, for the Smell of one will spoi the other, and the clothes which served to draw one Essence, cannot serve for another, except you wash them as before and dry them. Essence of Millefleurs. THAT Essence is prepared with Essence of all sorts of Flowers mixed together▪ putting more of those whose Smell is weak, and less of the strongest Smell, and match them so well, that you can hardly discern which prevails, and 'tis done. olive-oil perfumed with Flowers. TAKE the best and the sweetest olive-oil you can find called Virgin-Oyl, having no Smell at all, it takes the better the Scent of Flowers. Here is no other thing to be done to perfume it, but to follow the Directions I give in the Receipt of Essences. Oil of Sweet Almonds perfumed, and a Paste to wash Hands. SCALD as many Sweet-Almonds as you please, peel them, let them drop and dry in the Air, then beat them and pass them through a Sieve: Lay them in a Box tinned within or pasted with clean white Paper: Make a Bed of your Almonds beaten in Powder, and over them lay a Bed of Flowers; continue so doing as long as you have Almonds and Flowers; let your Flowers lie from Morning till Night, if that be not enough let them lie twenty four hours, then take them out of the Sieve, and renew them; continue the same till your Almonds have taken the Smell of the Flowers. After that take Linen clothes very strong a quarter of an Ell square, well washed and dried. Lay your Almonds upon them, and tie them in little Packs two and two together very close, fold against fold in the Press, and draw the Oil of them, and it will have the Smell of the Flowers: The very Cakes of Almonds left will have the same Smell. They are extraordinary good to wash Hands; beat them only in a Mortar, sift them through a Sieve, and rub your Hands with them in a Basin of warm Water; you may mix Iris Powder with it if you will. This Paste we call the Paste of Provence, Jasmin or Orange-flowers Paste. Observe that in the Composition of Essences or Oils, the clothes or Paste must be in the Press three hours at least to draw the Oil. Essence of Neroly. THE Essence of Neroly comes out of the Fruit which is in the Orange-flower: You can draw but very little of that Essence, a great quantity of Water can make but an Ounce. The way how to make it up is thus, When the Orange-water is distilling, let it drop in a Bottle long, narrow-necked, and big-bellyed, when the Bottle is full of Water, let it stand and stop it; and as the Essence is lighter, it will certainly swim over the Water, so rising to the Extremity of the neck of the Bottle, you may easily pour it in another Glass; it is Green at first, but being kept a while it will turn Red. As it is impossible to pour that Essence without some Water with it, to separate them, put the Essence and the Water mixed with it in a Viol, stop the neck with your Thumb, and turn the Glass downwards; the Essence being light will come to the top, then take away your Thumb a little to let the Water out gently, all the Water being out, stop the hole again to keep in the Essence which remains alone. Essence of * Cedra is a kind of Citron-Tree. Cedra or Bergamote. THE Essence of Cedra comes out of a Citron, which grows out of a Bough of a Citron-Tree grafted on a Bergamot Pear-Tree, so the Citron which grows on it, participates of the two qualities, the Citron and the Pear. To make Essence of it, you must cut in little bits the Peel of those Citrons, and squeeze them with your Fingers in a Glass-bottle, where you can hardly put your Hand to squeeze the Rind, as we do the Rind of Oranges in a Glass of Wine: Thus by the quantity of it you have Essence. Essence of strong Orange, or of small Grain. PUT what quantity you please of small Oranges, not too ripe, in a cold Still with Water, let it distil in a Glass▪ bottle long-necked, let it rest a while, the Essence will swim over, take it out of the Water, and keep it in Viols well stopped. You will know in the Treatise of distilling Waters, how to order your Alembick. Essence of Citron. MAKE the Essence of Citron after the same manner as the Essence of strong Orange; cut only the Lemons in two, and lay them in the Alembick with Water, let them distil as before and take up the Essence. I do not prescribe the quantity of Citrons nor Oranges, it is easy to know what quantity of Waters is sufficient to boil them and not burn them, there must be Fruits enough to make the Essence. A Receipt to prepare Wax for Wiskers. MELT together four Ounces of white Wax, two Ounces of Jasmin Pomatum or other in an earthen Pan upon a Chasing-dish, stir them gently; being melted, pour a Spoonful of Essence of Citron, or of strong Orange, mix them well, fill your Moulds, and presently after let them stand in a Vessel full of cold Water, being could 'tis done. Black Wax. TO the same Composition as before, mix only some black of Smoke, your Wax will be black. Grace Wax perfumed. MIX to the Preparation of the white Wax two Spoonfuls of fine Marechale Powder, and the Wax will be grey. Of another sort. PUT two Spoonfuls of the Dregs of Angel-water in fine Powder to the Composition of white Wax, and instead of Essence of strong Orange or Citron, pour to it half a Spoonful of Essence of Amber or of Neroly, fill your Moulds and 'tis done. A Treatise of Pomatums. TAKE what quantity you think fit of the Leaf of Hogs-fat, dip it in Water in bits as it comes from the Hog, change the Water every three hours during four days, and you must the two last days work it in Water with a Spoon every time you put new Water to it, then take it out of the Water and drain it well: Melt it over a soft Fire in a new Earthen Pan, stirring it very gently that it do not burn: Being melted, pour your Pomatum in a Basin full of Water, stirring continually the Water and the Pomatum together with the Spatula till it is quite cold and congealed. Afterwards pour out the Water, and continue to beat and stir your Pomatum, and by degrees the Water will all come out. Let the Pomatum rest a while, then do as follows. Prepare two Pewter Dishes of the same bigness, lay your Pomatum two Inches thick in the Dishes, in one of them strew over the Flowers you design to perfume your Pomatum withal, all over even, and cover it with the other Dish; thus the Flowers will not be squeezed, and will give their Smell to both Dishes. Let the Flowers lie from Morning till Night, if they are scarce with you, leave them twenty four hours, then take them up with your Pomatum, and stir it a little, spread it again, and lay fresh and new Flowers as before; continue so doing some days Morning and Night, till your Pomatum is of a good and strong Smell, and 'tis done. Keep it in Glasses. You cannot make a good Pomatum and keep it well, but of Jasmin and Orange-flowers, or of Tuberose, other Flowers are too weak to give a Sweet and lasting Odour. Pomatum good to Refresh the Complexion, and to take off the Redness and Pimples of the Face. TAKE half a Pound of the Leaf of Hogs-fat, dip it in the Water several days, changing the Water as often as I prescribed in the first Receipt, and your Fat being very white, put it in a new Earthen Pan, with two Pippins cut in bits without peeling them, and an Ounce of the four cold Seeds, set the Pot on a soft Fire, and let your Pomatum be melting a quarter of an hour, then take it off the Fire, and mix in it an Ounce of Oil of Sweet▪ Almonds, strain it after that through a Linen Cloth tied hard, and let it drop in clear Water, stir the Pomatum and the Water with a wooden Spatula till it is cold and congealed in the Water, then pour out the Water, and work your Pomatum again to draw out the rest of the Water, and 'tis done. Another sort of Pomatum very good for the Face. TAKE four Ounces of the Leaf of Hogs-fat, and whiten it in Water as I said before▪ then pour out the Water and put aside your Fat. Melt after that a Pennyworth of Virgin-wax, two Pennyworth of Sperma Ceti, and two Ounces of Oil of Sweet-Almonds, in an Earthen Pan on a soft Fire, do not let them boil, stir them in the mean while to mix them well together; then melt gently your Hogs-fat prepared, and pour it in the said Composition; stir them well with the Spatula, then pour the whole in a Basin full of Water; stir again the Pomatum and the Water with the Spatula till it is congealed, and then you must pour in it fresh Water, and change it often till your Pomatum is very white, do not forget to stir it continually with the Spatula, and 'tis done. Another sort of Pomatum, very fine for the Face. TAKE two Ounces of Oil of Sweet-Almonds, half an Ounce of Virgin-Wax four Pennyworth of Sperma-Ceti; melt the whole together in an Earthen Dish, over a Chafing-dish full of burning Ashes; stir gently the Wax with a wooden Spatula, that the whole be well mingled and incorporated: Then take off the Fire your Composition, and pour to it by degrees some fair Water, beating it in the mean while with the Spatula. Continue so doing till your dish is full, and your Pomatum congealed in the Water, for it must swim in the Water: Having so beat it a long while in the first Water, pour the Water out, and put some fresh, still working your Pomatum till 'tis white, than it will swim upon the Water; take it out with the Spatula, and work it without Water, till it is very white. All the Water being strained out of your Pomatum, mix in it Borax beaten very fine, of the bigness of a small Nut, and some Essence of Pearl beaten very fine; mingle it all together very well, and 'tis done. Pomatum for the Lips. TAKE four Ounces of fresh new Butter, an Ounce of Virgin Wax, melt them; being melted throw in it black Grapes, boil the whole a quarter of an Hour; in the mean while bruise the Grapes with a Spoon: strain after that your Pomatum through a fine Linen Cloth, to take away the dregs of the Grapes. Then put the Pomatum on the Fire again; pour over it two spoonfuls of Orange▪ flower-water, and boil it again another boiling: Bruise Orcanet the bigness of a Bean in a Poringer, alloy it with a little of Orange-flower-water, and pour it over your Pomatum; then work it well with a Spoon, and take it off the Fire, and 'tis done. Being cold lay it in Boxes or Pots. You may keep that sort of Pomatum two years very good. It is excellent for Sore and Scabby Lips. A Receipt to make a Liquid Paste of Almonds, to wash Hands without Water. TAKE a Pound of bitter Almonds, scald them, peel them, and dry them; then beat them in a marble Mortar a long while, that no lumps remain; pour over it a little Milk to wet it, and make it into a Paste. Keep it aside. Beat the Crum of the whitest Penny Loaf, with a little Milk, and make it in a Paste; then mix in the Mortar the Almond Paste with the Bread; add to it ten Yolks of Eggs, without the Tread: beat them altogether very well, pouring by degrees some Milk, stirring and allaying still the Paste; you may pour so three pints of Milk; then put it all in a Kettle over the Fire, and boil it very well: Stir it, and turn it continually with a Ladle, till it is well boiled. It must boil an hour at least. It is enough boiled when it is thick. Opiate in Powder, to cleanse the Teeth. TAKE half a Pound of Brick Sand very fine, four Ounces of fine China Powder, an Ounce of Coral beaten in fine Powder, mix them very well; pour over it half a Spoonful of Essence of Cinnamon, as much of Cloves Powder: Mingle them all together very well, and 'tis done. Another Sort. TAKE half a Pound of Brick Sand, four Ounces of China Powder, half an Ounce of Cinnamon well beaten and mixed well together; 'tis done. Another Sort. TAKE half a Pound of Brick Sand, four Ounces of China Powder, an Ounce of Coral beaten very fine, a gros of beaten Cloves, two gros of calcined Alom, half an ounce of crust of Bread burnt, and an Ounce of Conserve of Roses in Powder; let it all be beaten very fine, and 'tis done. Receipt to make Liquid Opiate. PUT what quantity you please of Syrup of red Cherries in a fine Earthen Pot, pour into the Syrup Opiate in Powder, of what kind you will, mix it well with a Spatula; if it is too Liquid throw a little more Powder; if too thick pour more Syrup; mingle it well, 'tis done. When you use it, pour some in a China Dish, and add to it, if you please, half a Spoonful of Essence of Amber or Cloves, or Cinnamon; it will smell and taste extraordinary well. A Treatise of Perfumes▪ good for the Mouth. Essence of Amber. POur in a strong glass Bottle, a Pint of the best Spirit of Wine, beat in a little Mortar the eighth part of an Ounce (or one Gros) of black Amber or Ambergreice, and throw it in the Wine; you must also mix half a Gros of the bladder of Musk very small; then stop the Bottle close, and expose it upon Sand to the hottest Sun in the Summer for a Fortnight, shake the Bottle two or three times in a day, when the Sun shines upon it, that the Amber should not stick at the bottom, but should melt and give its smell to the Spirit of Wine; take away the Bottle when it reins, and the Sand; for the Sand being heaten by the Sun, is a great help to Concoct, and bring to Perfection all the Preparations exposed to the heat of the Sun. Observe also, That you must not fill the Bottle to the top, lest the strength of the Spirit of Wine break it; after a Month, take it away, and 'tis done. The best time to make that Essence is in the Dog-days; if you have a mind to make less or more of it, put more or less of the Ingredients or things mentioned before. Essence of Hippocras. PUT half a Pint of Spirit of Wine in a strong Glass Bottle, add to it half an Ounce of Cloves, an Ounce of Cinnamon, a Gros of Ginger, and as much as you can hold with your Finger's end of Coriander, all well beaten; three or four Grains of black Amber, or Ambergreice, beaten in a Marble Mortar: Stop the Bottle well, and expose it to the Sun upon Sand, a whole Month; take it away when it Rains, and done't fill the Bottle full, as I said before: At the Months end it is done. Cachoo Perfumed with Amber, very good for the Mouth. BEat four Ounces of Cachoo, and ten Grains of Musk together in a Mortar, and sift them very fine in a Hair Sieve, beating again what remains, and sifting it again and again; then warm the bottom of the Mortar, and the end of the Pestle; dissolve eighteen Grains of Ambergriece in the Mortar, pour over it half a Spoonful of Ambergriece, and the bigness of a Walnut of Gum of Adragant; dip it in Orange-flower-water, allaying the whole together; put in by degrees your Cachoo Powder, mingle it and stir it a long while, and beat it well, to mix your Amber all over: The Paste being made, you must shape the Cachoo thus: Take a bit of it as big as a Nut in your Hands, roll it to a point, take a Crum at a time, twist it with your Two Fingers, and you'll shape it like a mouse's turd; wet it a little with Essence of Orange-flowers, that it should not stick to your Fingers. Pastils Perfumed good to eat. TAKE a Pound of double refined Sugar, beat it in a little Mortar with twelve Grains of Musk, searce it through a hair Sieve very fine; dip in Orange-flower-water a handful of Gum of Adragant, from Night till the next Morning: strain it hard through a Linen Cloth, not too Fine nor too Coarse; then mix your Gum with your Sugar, pouring over it two Gros of Essence of Amber, work it altogether very well to make a Paste; make it flat with a rolling Pin, and cut your Pastils of what shape you will: While you cut them, dry them upon a white Paper in the Air; in the Summer cover them with another Paper, lest the Flies should spoil them; done't lay them up till they are very dry. The Moulds to cut Pastils are made of fine Tin, in the shape of a Thimble; press with one end of the Mould the Past, and turn the Mould, the Pastil remains in them, blow on the other side and it comes out. Excellent Hippocras perfumed. TAKE half a Pound of Sugar, beat it fine, and put it in a Basin, pour over the Sugar a Pint of Wine, the oldest and the deepest in colour is the best, stir gently your Sugar with a Spoon to melt it, then strain your Wine through a Straining▪ bag five or six times; being well clarified pour in it half a Spoonful of Essence of Hippocras, and stir it with a Spoon; taste if it is strong enough, if not, pour more Essence and 'tis done. Pour your Wine quickly in a Bottle, stop it presently that it should not lose its Spirits; that way is ready, and better than by Infusion. Rosa Solis, or perfumed Liquor. PUT in a Copper Pan over the Fire two Pints of Water and two Pounds of Sugar, let them boil to the fourth part, then pour in two Spoonfuls of Orange-flower-water, having boiled a Minute, throw in the White and the Shell of an Egg well beaten with a Whisk, stir your Egg in your Liquor with the Whisk, and when it boils take it off the Fire, strain it through the Bag several times; being well clarified, pour in it the best Brandy according to the strength you will have your Rosa Solis. Then pour in Essence of Amber to your taste more or less, or Essence of Hippocras, and 'tis done. Another Liquor perfumed. MELT a Pound of Sugar in a Pint of old Wine, as you have done to Hippocras, strain it through the Bag several times; then pour in good Brandy as much as you think fit, according to the strength of your Liquor, pour also Essence of Amber to your taste, 'tis done. A Treatise of perfumed Sweet-waters. Angel▪ water boiled. PUT in an Earthen Pot five Pints of Water, a Pound of Benjamin, half a Pound of Storax, an Ounce of Cinnamen, half an Ounce of Cloves, all well beaten, two Lemons cut in quarters, two or three bits of Calamus: Set the Pot on the Fire, cover it, and make it boil to the fourth part, then pour the Water in a Basin and cool it before you pour it in Bottles. If you want more of that Water, fill your Pot as before, and boil it the same▪ that second Water will be almost as good as the first, you may mix them together if you will. This done, take out the Dregs left in the bottom of the Pot, before they be cold, dry them, and make Pastils as before in the Receipt of Pastils; or else you may use them in several Preparations, as I said in the Treatise of Wash-balls. Another sort. PUT in the Pot two Pints of Orange-flowers, and as much of Rose-water, than put the same Drugs, and in the same quantity as in the former Receipt, all but Lemons, add only a Bladder of Musk: Let it boil after the same manner, and having taken your Water out of the Pot, take also the Dregs, and dry them, they are very good to make Pastils to burn. Millefleur, or several sorts of Flower-water. POUR in a Glass-bottle a Pint of good Angel-water, then beat twelve Grains of Musk in a little Mortar, alloy them with that Water, and pour it all in a Bottle well stopped. Keep it for your use. Instead of Musk you may put a Gros of the Bladder of Musk cut small, and it is very good. Angel-water distilled in Mare Balneo. TAKE a Glass Alembick of three pieces, the top or the head, the Bombe, and the long narrow-necked and round-bellyed Bottle: You must have also a Furnace to burn Charcoals, and a Kettle or other Vessel alike deep enough to keep the Water and set the Alembick. Paste some double Paper round about the Bombe just at the place where the head lies, put the Bottle (or Matras) at the end of the Pipe to receive the distilling. You must put in the Bombe a Pint of Water, four Ounces of Benjamin, two Ounces of Storax, half an Ounce of Cinnamon, two Gros of Cloves, all well beaten, a bit of Calamus, and a Gros (or the eighth part of an Ounce) of the Bladder of Musk; the Water distilled out of all these, will be of an extraordinary Sweet Smell, and very clear. Put the Dregs left in the bottom to dry, and make Pastils of them to burn. Carnation-water. PUT in a Glass Alembick as before, a Pint of Water, and two Ounces of beaten Cloves; the Water distilled will have a pleasant Smell, because the strength of the Cloves being sweetened by the Water, smell rather of the Carnation than the Cloves. Cinnamon-water. YOU must put in a Glass Alembick as before, a Pint of Water, and two Ounces of Cinnamon well beaten, and the distilled Water will have the natural Smell of Cinnamon. Thyme-water. PUT a Pint of Water in the same Glass Alembick, and two handfuls of Thyme, the distilled Water will smell naturally of the Thyme. All Aromatic Herbs may be distilled after the same manner; those Herbs being very strong, keep their Smell as well dry as green; so it is easy to distil from them Waters, in reading the aforesaid Receipts. Orange-flower-water distilled in a cold Still. INfuse two Pounds of Orange-flowers dry in two Pints of Water three or four hours, then pour it in the Still, and distil it as in the former Receipt, the Water distilled out of it is good for a great many things, as for Wash-balls, to make Angel-water, to cleanse Snuff, and serves to perfume all sorts of Skins and Gloves. Rose-water. INfuse three Pounds of Roses in two Pints of Water two or three hours, then distil them in the Still as you do the Orange-flowers, observe the same Rules, for they are made after the same manner, you may put less Water, and make it stronger: But as Rose-water is very much used in cleansing Snuff, and Orange-water also, you must distil enough when you use it for that purpose; when you use it for other things you may make it as strong as you will, as I said before. The Queen of Hungary's Water. POUR in a strong Glass-bottle two Pints of Spirit of Wine, two good handfuls of Rosemary-leaves, a handful of Thyme, half a handful of Sweet-Marjoram the Leaves only, and as much of Sage, stop the Bottle very well, expose it in the Sun a whole Month; than you must dissolve the bigness of a Bean of Orcanet with a little Spirit of Wine, bruise the Orcanet, pour it in your Bottle, and expose it again to the Sun four or five days and 'tis done: It will be of a fine Red, of a sweet Smell, and very strong. Receipts to make Pastils to burn. Ordinary Pastils. BEAT in a Mortar a Pound of common Benjamin, half an Ounce of Cloves, two Gros of Cinnamon, a bit of Calamus, searce them all together through a hair Sieve, then dissolve in Water some Gum of Adragant; put in the Mortar your Powder seared with a Porringer of that Gum, mingle them and beat them together to make a Paste of it; if your Paste is too soft, add to it more Powder, that way the Paste is easily done; you have nothing else to do but to flat your Paste with a Roling-pin, and shape your Pastils in your Moulds, as 'tis before in the Receipt of Pastils for the Mouth; dry them, and they are done. Pastils of Roses made into Wax-Tapers. BEAT and searce through a Hair Sieve, a Pound of Angel-water dregs, as in the first Receipt of Waters, use no Lemons, and being in Powder, you must put in the Mortar a handful of Leaves of Roses, fresh and new gathered, and a Porringer of Gum of Adragant dissolved in Rose-water, beat the whole together a long while to make well the Paste, then flat it with a Roling-pin, and cut it with a Knife into Lozenges. To shape them in little Tapers, take bits of them, role them in your hands like Wax-Candles as long as your Finger, make one end flat to stand and dry. That sort of Pastils light like Candles, and burn to the very last, they give a most sweet and fragrant Smoke. Spanish Pastils. BEAT in Powder and searce through a Hair Sieve, the Dregs of Angel-water, as in the second Receipt of Angel-water; water; dissolve Gam of Adragant in Orange-flower-water, and make a Paste of it in the Mortar with your Powder, then cut your Pastils with your Moulds, dry them and they are done. Portugal Pastils. YOU must beat and searce through a Hair Sieve the best Dregs of Angel-water, then dissolve some Gum of Adragant with Orange-flower-water, and make your Paste in the Mortar with your Powder and your Gum as before; observe only, you must make your Paste a little more thick. Then warm the bottom of the Mortar and the end of the Pestle, and by its heat melt twenty Grains of Amber-griese, or black Amber, pour over it half a Spoonful of Millefleur-water to dissolve it; you must pour of that Water to the quantity of half a Wine-glass; then set your Mortar over a Chasing-dish of Fire, and your Composition being hot, pour it over your Paste, mingle it well and 'tis done. Shape your Pastils to your Moulds, as you have done before, and dry them. A Receipt to dissolve Gum to make the Paste for Pastils. DIssolve your Gum in what fort of Water you please, but the Water must not be over it above an Inch, because you must not drown it presently; and when it has soaked in the Water, pour some more fresh, and so by degrees till your Gum is dissolved; it must not be too liquid, but softish and well melted, then use it. A Receipt to make perfumed Paste for Beads and Medals. TAKE of Marechal-powder, and make Paste of it with Gum-Adragant and Arabic dissolved with Millefleur-water, and if your Paste is too soft, put some more Powder to it, if 'tis too stiff put more Gum, more or less of both will do, rub your Moulds with Essence of Flowers, that the Paste should not stick to them; that Paste will be of Coffee-colour. Another sort. TAKE some Perfumes good to perfume other Powders, and make them in a Paste with Gum dissolved in Orange-flower-water; pour over it half a Spoonful of Amber; the Pestle will be white; and if you mix a little Vermilion, you may make it as red as you please: You may make it of a yellow colour in putting some Ochre in Powder. Another sort. TAKE half of Cyprus-powder, and half of Frangipane-powder, make a Paste with Gum dissolved with Millefleur-water: The Paste is grey, and of a very sweet Smell. Another sort. TAKE fine Marechale-powder, and half as much of fine Powder of Angel-water Dregs, make a Paste with some Gum dissolved as before, your Paste will be very good. Another sort. TAKE some perfumed Cyprus-powder, Frangipane-powder, and Perfumes to perfume other Powder, of all the same quantity, and make a Paste with Gum dissolved with Orange-flower-water, pour over it a little of Essence of Amber: The Paste will be of Ash colour very fine, and of a sweet and pleasant Smell. You may make all these Pastils of a strong and good Smell as much as you please, put only more or less Amber, Musk, and Civet, in the Powders or Waters dissolved with the Gum. A Receipt to prepare the Gums for the said Pastes. DIssolve the Gum of Adragant after the same manner it is prescribed in the Receipt before that of the Pastes mentioned: You must add to a Porringer of that Gum, half a Glass of gum-arabic pretty thick, then mingle them together, and use them. A Treatise of gross Powders a la Marechale, and how to use them. Gross Powder a la Marechale. TAKE a Pound of Iris, twelve Ounces of Orange-flowers dry, four Ounces of Coriander, half a Pound of Roses of Province, two Ounces of Angel-water Dregs, an Ounce of Calamus, two Ounces of Souchet, half an Ounce of Cloves, beat all them Drugs in the Mortar one after another, then mix them well together and 'tis done. Another sort. TAKE twelve Ounces of Iris, half a Pound of Orange-flowers dry, four Ounces of Roses of Province, four Ounces of Wood of Roses, one Ounce of Benjamin, half an Ounce of Limon Peels dry, as much of Orange Peels dry, half an Ounce of Marjoram dry, an Ounce of Souchet, half an Ounce of Calamus, two Gros of Cinnamon, half an Ounce of Cloves, two Ounces of Wood of Sendal Citrain; beat all the Drugs one after another in a Mortar; mix them very well together, your Powder is good. Another Sort. TAKE a Pound of Iris Powder, half a Pound of Orange-flowers dry, four Ounces of Roses of Provins, two Ounces of Wood of Sendal Citrain, one Ounce of Orange-peels dry; half an Ounce of sweet Marjoram, as much of Lavender dry, an Ounce of Calamus, two Ounces of Souchet, one Ounce of Benjamin, half an Ounce of Storax, and half an Ounce of Labdanum; beat all them Drugs in a Mortar, one after another, and mix them very well; the Powder is made. You may add to all these Powders sweet Woods. A Receipt for sweet Bags. TAke twelve Ounces of common Rose Leaves, a Pound and half of Lavender, twelve Ounces of sweet Marjoram Leaves, four Ounces of Myrrh Leaves, six Ounces of Thyme Leaves, four Ounces of Melilot Leaves, one Ounce of Rosemary Leaves, an Ounce of Bay-leaves, two Ounces of Cloves half beaten, an Ounce of musked Rose-leaves, as much as you can of Orange-flowers, and of Carnation-flowers; put all these in a Pot, making a bed of Flowers, and a bed of Salt, and so again till your pot is full: stop it well, and stir it every other day with a Stick, exposing it to the hot Sun in the Summer: but take it away when it Rains, and an hour before the Sun setting at a Years end; fill your sweet Bags with your prepared Drugs, adding to it some Cypress Powder Perfumed as you think fit. Rose Buds. TAKE what quantity of Rosebuds you please, the closest Green, and in their room put as many Cloves, dry them in the Sun between two Papers; they'll be very good to put in your sweet Bags. You may, if you will, expose them to the Sun, in an Earthen Pot covered with Paper, and sprinkle them with the best Angel-water, and being dry use them as before. Orange Flowers dry. DRY in the Sun what quantity you will of Orange flowers, between two Papers very close round about, being dry keep them for your use. Little sweet Bags. CUT little Silk Bags square, sow them round about, leave only a slit, and put in twelve Ounces of Marechale Powder, sow up the slit and 'tis done. After a while, if the Bags have lost their smell, take out the Powder, and beat it in a Mortar, put it again in your Bags, and it will be sweet as before. Another sort. CUT your Silk Bags as before, without sowing them, lay upon one piece of your Bag some of the gross Marechale Powder, then put over it a Bed of Cotton Perfumed an Inch thick, strew the same Powder over the Cotton; then cover it with the other piece of Silk, and sow your Bag without shaking it, quilt it and 'tis done. You may trim it with Ribbons, or what you please, in the four corners of the Bags. Sweet Bags to wear about you. TAKE some rich silk, cut your Bags of four Inches square, longer if you will; rub the wrong side of the Silk with Civet, then fill them with gross Marechale Powder of what sort you will; add to it few Cloves, and a little of the wood of Sendal Citrain both beaten; it will strengthen and revive the sweet smell. Your bags being full, sow them, and trim them if you will. Another sort. CUT your fine silk Bags as before, of four Inches, and fill them with these Compositions. Beat in a little Mortar eight Grains of Musk, and pour over it half a spoonful of Millefleur Water; add to it four grains of Civet, beat them with the Musk, pour over it four Drops of Balm of Peru, and a spoonful of several sorts of Water; having mingled the whole together very well with the Pestle, rub the wrong side of your Bags gently with it, then fill them with the Composition, in the first Receipt of sweet Bags, with Cyprus Powder Perfumed, well mixed together; sow your Bags, trim them as fine as you will, they are done. Another sort. TAKE the finest Silk, cut your Bags a little bigger than others before, and fill them with the following Perfumes. Heat the bottom of a little Mortar, melt in it eight Grains of Amber, mix with them four Grains of Civet beaten small with the Pestle; then pour gently over it two Spoonfuls of Millefleur Water, with the bigness of a Pea of Gum Arabic, dissolved with the same Water; rub a little the wrong side of your Bags with the same Composition, then fill them with Cyprus and Frangipane-Powders Perfumed in the same quantity; mix with it little bits of Bladder of Musk, sow your Bags, etc. Fine Basket of Ozier Perfumed, to keep Lady's clothes in. GET a Basket of fine Osier, of what bigness you will, take as much of Silk as you want to line it; stretch your Silk over an Imbroidering frame; then over the Silk a Bed of Perfumed Cotton, of the thickness of two Crown Pieces, strew over the Cotton some of the Marechal Powder, and over the Powder some of the Sendal Citrain Wood well beaten; then cover it all with the other piece of Silk, quilt it in Lozenges. This done cut your Silk according to the bottom of your Basket, of the sides and the cover, bind the edges with silk Galoon, of the same colour of your Silk, then sew it to the Basket very well. Pockets perfumed for ladies. THE same Stuff, Perfumes and Quilting, as in the last Receipt, will serve to Perfume Pockets; cut your Stuff only for Pockets, bend round the Seams with Silk Galoon, and they are made. Boxes perfumed for Periwigs. THE Perriwig-boxes must be of Wood an Inch thick, half an Ell long, round at the ends, and in the shape of a Periwig: To line it, stretch on a Frame a bit of Silk, and lay over it a Bed of Cotton well perfumed thin and even, strew over the Cotton the best Powder a la Marechale not too corpse, and over that Powder a little of Sendal Citron-wood beaten very small: Then cover it all with the finest Taby rubbed before with the following Preparation; Quilt your Silk and cut it according to the shape of your Box and the cover, bind the edges with Silk Galoon of the same colour of the Tabby; then line the inside of the Box, the out▪ side must be covered with a perfumed sweet Skin, and the edges of the Skin covered with a gold or silver Galoon, the Lock and Key gilded over. How to perfume the wrong side of the Tabby. WARM the bottom of a little Mortar, then melt in it ten Grains of Amber, stirring it with the Pestle, pour four drops of Orange-flower-water; add to it six Grains of Civet, then mix it all together very well, and pour over two Spoonfuls of Millefleur-water, and a piece as big as a Pea of Gum-Arbick dissolved with the same Water; the whole being well mixed, rub gently with it the wrong side of the Tabby with a bit of Sponge, and 'tis done. Boxes perfumed to keep Linen. THOSE Boxes must be lined within, covered and perfumed after the same manner as the Perriwig-boxes, the shape only of these must be like a little Trunk, to keep fine Linen for Persons of Quality. To Perfume Toilets. SWEET Toilets may be prepared of two sorts, the first which differs nothing from the lining of the Perriwig-boxes, is thus prepared. Take as much Silk or Stuff as you will have your Toilet, stretch it on a Frame, lay over it a Bed of Cotton perfumed, and the Powder over the Cotton, cover it with what Silk you will, and Quilt it. If the outside of your Silk was not thick enough to endure the Preparation you rub it with, add to that Composition some of the Millefleur-water, have a sufficient quantity of Cotton to soak it, then dry it, and lay a Bed very thin, and even all over your Powder, or in many places, and cover it all with your Silk well quilted, and your Toilet is done. Sweet Toilets as they prepare them at Montpellier. TAKE new Linen Cloth very strong, not too thick, cut it according to your Toilets, dip them and wash them in several Waters, then lay them in Angel-water all night, dry them well, and perfume them thus. Beat in fine Powder, and pass it through a hair Sieve, two Pounds of Iris, a Pound of Campane-root, two Ounces of Wood of Roses, and four Ounces of Sendal-Citrain, one Ounce of Calamus, two Ounces of Souchet, half an Ounce of Cinnamon, two Gros of Cloves, and half an Ounce of Labdanum, then mix them all together, put them in a Mortar, and pour over some Gum-Adragant dissolved with Angel-water; the Gum must be very thin, put Water enough that the Paste be fine and liquid; rub your Toilets with that Paste on both sides as hard as you can, rub them even, then let them dry, being almost dry, take a Sponge dipped in Angel-water, rub your Toilets with it to make them smooth, let them dry again and they are done. When they are dry, fold them as you will have them▪ and keep them between two clothes. Another Preparation of the same. THE clothes being washed clean and dry as before, make use of this Composition. Beat very well one after another, and pass very fine through a hair Sieve, the following Drugs, two Pounds of Iris, a Pound of Campane-root, two Ounces of Lemon-peels, an Ounce of dry Orange-peels, an Ounce of Cloves, half a Pound of Benjamin, four Ounces of Storax, two Ounces of Souchet, and one Ounce of Labdanum; mix them all together, and make a Paste very thin, as in the former Receipt, rub your clothes, prepare them as before, and 'tis done. Perfumes to wear about you. BEAT in a little Mortar the bigness of a Pea of Benjamin, pour over it a few drops of Balm of Peru; then add to it four Grains of Civet, stir it and mix it well with the Pestle, and put it with Cotton in your Perfume-box. Another sort. WARM the Mortar and melt in it four Grains of Amber infused in a few drops of Essence of Amber, put to it two Grains of Civet, mix it all, and put it with Cotton in your Sweet Box. Another sort. WARM the Mortar pretty hot as before, melt in it six Grains of Amber dissolved with four drops of Millefleur-water, add to it four Grains of Musk, stir and bruise them all together, put it into your little Box with Cotton rubbed with a Grain of Civet. Another sort. BRuise in the Mortar four Grains of Musk, and two Grains of Civet, pour over it four drops of Balm of Peru, gather it up with Cotton, and put it in your little Box. Another sort. WARM the Mortar, and melt in it twelve Grains of Amber, and six Grains of Civet, dissolved with some drops of Water; then take a little Cotton dipped in a few drops of Essence of Cloves and Cinnamon, and take up your Perfume with that Cotton; put it all in a little Bladder of Musk very close, and wrap it with a bit of Sweet Skin, sowed round about, you may cover it with another Stuff if you please. Another sort. IN Boxes with several little Partitions, put several Sweet Drugs without any mixture; as for Example, in one Partition Balm of Peru, in another Civet with Cotton, and so in others different Perfumes as you like. Perfumes to burn. GET a wooden Trunk called a Perfuming Trunk, it is like other Trunks, only this has a hole at the bottom to put in two or three little Panfuls of Fire to burn the Perfumes, and when they are burning stop the hole; and at the top of the Trunk within about half a foot, there is a wooden or wire Grate to hold what you design to Perfume, turn your Perfume that the Smell should be even every where, and that the Smoke should not black what you laid on the Grate. This Receipt will serve for every thing you have a mind to perfume with Smoak. Cotton perfumed. LAY your Cotton even upon the Grate, and burn what sort of Pastils you will, stuff up the Perfuming-Trunk, and it will Smoak very sweetly. Another sort. LIght five or six Pastils made in Wax-Candles in the bottom of the Perfuming Trunk, lay them upon Tiles, and shut up the Trunk. Another sort. POUR in a Perfume-Pan, or in a Silver Porringer, Millefleur-water over a Pan of Fire, and when the Water boils, he Steam of it will perfume Cotton: You may boil after the same manner Orange-flower-water, pouring in it before three or four drops of Essence of Amber, the Smell will be extraordinary fine. How to Perfume a Room with Smoak. SHUT all the Windows, light Pastils made in Candles, put them in the corners of the Room near the Hangings, otherwise heat red-hot the Fireshovel, pour over it some Angel or Millefleur-water, or Orange-flower-water, with three drops of Essence of Amber, the Smoke of it will perfume the Room all over. Another sort. PUT in a Perfuming-Pan, or Silver Porringer, what sort of Sweet-water you like, lay them over Chafing-dishes of Fire, when the Waters boil, the Steem of them is very Sweet: You may burn all manner of Pastils upon hot Coals. A Treatise of Perfumed Skins and Gloves. The manner of Washing Skins for Fans, and Perfuming them with Flowers. CUT Sheep Skins Dressed, a little bigger than you design them for Fans, because you must stretch them round about the little Board's, as you'll see hereafter, then wash them so long and so often in several Waters, till the last Water is very clean, leave them after that in Water till the next day, squeeze them and dry them upon a Line; being dry, wash them in Orange-flower-water, and leave them in it till the next day, then take them out, do not squeeze them much, and hang them on a Line to dry; be careful to take them down while they are drying, because they must be dressed as soon as they are dry, or else you'll be in danger to tear them and spoil them; then give them what Colour you please on both sides with a Sponge, then stretch them on your Frames, and dry them in the Air. The Frames or Moulds for Fans are little Board's, of the thickness of two Crown Pieces, cut in the shape of your Fans, having points of Needles round about to stretch the Skins with. Observe that the fleshy part of the Skins must be always without. When your Skins are dry, Perfume them as you'll find in the Receipts for Perfuming Skins and Gloves; and while they are upon the little Board's, rub them only with your Composition on the Fleshy side; being dry take them up to Perfume them with Flowers: When you design to Perfume them with Flowers, choose Perfumes where the Civet prevails, or you may use other Perfumes. Your Fans being thus Prepared, take a Box, and lay in it a bed of Flowers and a bed of Skins; continue so doing till you fill the Box with both, if you have plenty of Flowers, put fresh ones every twelve Hours, if not, every twenty four Hours, do so five or six times, your Skins are well Perfumed: Orange-flowers are the best for that use. How to Wash all sorts of great Skins, and Perfume them. CHoose what Skins you please, Shamays, or Sheep's, Lambs, Kids, or Dogs-Skins; not prepared before with Yolks of Eggs; for commonly those Skins are so prepared, to make them fine and limber, but it is contrary to Perfumes, they must be also dressed. Wash them as you have done the Skins of Fans, in fair Water; then let them lie till the next Day: Take them out, squeeze them and dry them upon a Line, then rub them very well, and soften them; dip them after that in Orange-flower-water four and twenty hours; take them out of the Water and done't squeeze them much; being dry, rub them well and stretch them, than colour them of what Colour you please, as you'll find in this Treatise: Being Coloured, Perfume them how you please, before you use any Flowers, or else you may Perfume them with Flowers alone, thus; Your Skins prepared as before, take a Box according to the quantity of your Skins, lay in a Bed of Flowers and a Bed of Skins, so doing let them lie 24 Hours; then take out your Skins, and hang them open on a Line an Hour to dry; then rub them well and open them; cover them again with Flowers, as you have done before five or six Days, and they are done. The manner of Preparing and Perfuming Gloves. CLean and Wash your Skins as you have done before; cut and sew your Gloves, then Colour them as you please; if you will Perfume them with other Perfumes, do it before you Perfume them with Flowers, as you'll find hereafter; being thus prepared, put them in a Box, lay in a Bed of Flowers and a Bed of Skins, continue so doing till you have no more Gloves nor Flowers; let them lie in the Box till the next day, for 24 Hours at most, then take them out, dry them in the Air upon a Line for an Hour; rub them after that well, open them and turn them, cover them again with fresh Flowers on the wrong side of the Skin; continue so doing on both sides four or five Days; then rub them, and prepare them again, they will be well Perfumed. You must Perfume once or twice the Paper you beat them in, lest it should lessen the smell. The Gloves and Skins you Perfume with precious Perfumes, as Amber, Musk, and Civet, will be well Perfumed without any Flowers. How to Perfume Gloves or Skins before you Perfume them with Flowers. Grinned on a Marble Stone with a Muller, a Gros (or the eighth part of an Ounce) of Civet, with two or three Drops of Essence of Orange-flowers, or other Flowers made of Ben Oil, being well mixed together, drop to it a little of Millefleur-water, then grind alone as big as a Small nut, Gum of Adragant dissolved with Orange▪ flower-water; after that mix your Civet, dropping a little of the Millefleur-water; continue so doing till it is all well mixed together, then put your Composition in the Mortar; pour more Water in it, stirring it till it is reduced to a quarter of a Pint; then lay your Perfume very even on your Gloves with a Sponge, dry them in the Air upon a Line; being dry, rub them, open them, and Perfume them with Flowers as before. Perfumes made with Musk. Grinned upon a Marble Stone two Gros of Musk, with three Drops of Essence of Flowers, as before, and being well mixed, let them lie on the corner of the Marble; then grind half a Gros of Civet, with a few Drops of the same Essence, lay it on another corner of your Marble; then grind as big as a Nut Gum of Adragant dissolved with Millefleur-water, mixed with three or four Drops of Essence of Amber; after that mix them all together very well with the last Water, dropping it gently; and when the whole is well mixed with the Water, put it in a Mortar, pouring more Water, and stirring it with the Pestle, till it is reduced to half a Pint; then rub your Gloves and Skins, and let them dry. Another sort. Grinned upon a Marble half a Gros of Civet, with 3 or 4 Drops of Essence of Flowers, being Grinded put it aside; then grind Gum Adragant, the bigness of a Small-nut, dissolved with Millefleur Water, then mix your Drugs together with Millefleur Water, dropping it by degrees; and when it is all well mixed, put it in a Mortar, pouring more Water to the quantity of half a Pint; then lay it over your Gloves with a Sponge; dry them, and rub them, open them, and dress them again; they will be well Perfumed. Perfume of Ambret. MIX on the Marble Stone, half a Gros of Civet, with four Drops of Orange-flowers, or any other, being well mixed put it by; then mix as big as a Small-nut Gum of Adragant dissolved in Orange-flower-water; after that mix them well all together, then warm pretty hot the little Mortar, infuse in it one Gros of Amber, with a little of Essence of Orange-flowers, pouring some of it by degrees, till it is reduced to a quarter of a Pint; mix again your Civet with a few Drops of Orange-flower-water; and being well mixed, put it all in the Mortar, and mix it well, filling with more Water your Mortar, to the quantity of half a Pint; lay it over your Gloves or Skins with a Sponge, and dry them in the Air. Perfume of Rome. Grinned on a Marble half a Gros of Civet, with a few Drops of Essence of Orange-flower-water, or other Essence, put it by, then mix Gum of Adragant, of the bigness of a Small-nut, dissolved with Orange-flower-water, mix it all together very well; then warm the little Mortar, and infuse in it one Gros of Amber, with a few Drops of Orange-flower-water, pouring more to it by degrees, till the whole comes to the quantity of a quarter of a Pint; then mix again your Civet with some Drops of Orange-flower-water; put it all together and mix it very well with more Water, till it is reduced to half a Pint; Perfume your Gloves or Skins with it, and dry them. Another sort. Grinned on a Marble half a Gros of Musk, with a few Drops of Millefleur-water; lay it by, then bruise as big as a Small nut Gum of Adragant, dissolved in Orange-flower-water; mix after that the Musk with the Gum, dropping Orange-flower-water being all well mixed. Warm the little Mortar, and melt a Gros of Amber, diluted with four Drops of Essence of Amber, being well infused and melted, pour to it a little of Millefleur-water; then put your Musk and Amber in the Mortar, mix them very well together with the Pestle, pouring a Spoonful of Gum Arabick-water; fill your Mortar with Orange-flower-water to the quantity of half a Pint, and when you will Perfume your Gloves, put the Mortar over a Chafing-dish of Fire to keep it warm, and use it as before. Spanish Perfume. Grinned upon a Marble Stone eighteen Grains of Civet, with a few Drops of Millefleur-water, lay them by, bruise Gum of Adragant as big as a Small-nut dissolved in Millefleur-water; then mix the Civet and the Gum together very well, pouring more of the same Water, till the whole comes to a quarter of a Pint; Perfume your Gloves with that Composition, and dry them; being dry, rub them, and open them. Grind one Gros of Musk upon a Marble, with four or five Drops of Millefleur water; being well mixed put it by; then warm pretty well the little Mortar, and melt two Gros of Amber, with half a Spoonful of Millefleur-water to dilute it; being melted and mixed with that Water, put to it your Musk, and mix them all very well together with the Pestle, pouring over it half a spoonful of Essence of Cloves; pour more of the same Water, and fill your Mortar to the quantity of half a Pint, add to it two Spoonfuls of Gum Arabick-water; when you use that Composition wash it over a Chafing-dish, and Perfume your Gloves or Skins. Perfumed Gloves and Skins with Amber. YOU must grind upon a Marble eighteen Grains of Civer, with half a Spoonful of Orange-flower-water, then lay it aside; bruise Gum of Adragant of the bigness of a Small-nut, diluted in Orange-flower-water; then mix the Civet with the Gum together, pouring some of the same Water by degrees, to the quantity of a quarter of a Pint, (so Perfume your Gloves and Skins) rub it with a Sponge. After that warm the little Mortar, and dissolve two Gros of Amber with half a Spoonful of Orange-flower-water, and four or five Drops of Essence of Amber; your Amber being dissolved, pour to your Preparation some of the same Water, stirring it with the Pestle till it is reduced to a quarter of a Pint; add to it two Spoonfuls of Gum of Arabick-water: All being well mixed together, warm your Perfume in the Mortar, over a Chafing-dish, and lay it over your Gloves with a Sponge, and dry them. When your Gloves and Skins are Perfumed, let them dry upon Lines, then stretch them with Sticks; dress them again, and lay them up; But Gloves of Dogs or Kids Skins, must be Oiled; being dry, rubbed and stretched within, turn them the wrong side out, and prepare them after this manner. Preparation to Oil Gloves on the wrong side. BRuise two Gros of Essence of Amber, and two Grains of Civet, with an Ounce of Essence of Orange-flowers or Jasmin upon your Marble, and mix them well together; then lay it over the wrong side of your Gloves with a Sponge, dry them in the Air, dress them again, and they are done. Observe, that the last Perfume you use, and the most necessary to all sorts of things you will keep, is to dry well before the Fire the Sheets of Paper you fold your Perfume in; for tho' they look dry, they are always moist. The Manner of Colouring Skins and Gloves. YOU must Grind upon a Marble Stone the Colours you like best, with a little of Ben Oil, or with Essence of Jasmin, or Orange-flowers, being well Grinded, pour some Orange-flower-water by degrees, Grinding still to mix them well; then lay your Colour by upon the Marble; bruise as much of Gum of Adragant as of Colour; your Gum must be dissolved with Orange-flower-water, then mix the Gum and the Colour together; pour over it a little Orange-flower-water; put the whole in an Earthen Pan; pour more Water, as much as you think fit: Take care not to make it too thick, then rub your Gloves or Skins with it with a Brush, and let them dry in the Air; after that rub them and stretch them with Sticks; then Grind a little bit of your Colour with a bit of Gum of Adragant, infused in Orange-flower-water, and very clear; rub your Gloves or Skins with it, dry them again, rub them, and dress them again, that last laying will keep the Colour a long while. Mixture of Colours. Isabella lively. A Great deal of White, half as much of Yellow, and two thirds of Yellow and Red. Isabel Pale. A great quantity of White, half as much of Yellow, and half as much of Red. Nut Colour. Take some Ombre Earth, used by Painters for shadowing, a little of Yellow, a little of White, and a very little of Red. Light Nut-Colour. The same Earth burnt, as much Yellow, a little of White, and the same quantity of Red. Brownish Nut-Colour. The same Earth burnt, a little of black Stone, of Yellow and Red. Amber Colour. Much of Yellow, little of White and Red. Gold Colour. Great deal of Yellow, with a little Red. Flesh Colour. A little of Yellow and White, and more Red than Yellow. Straw Colour. Much of Yellow, little of White, very little Red, and a great deal of Gum. Brown Colour. The same Earth burnt, very much of black Stone, a little of Black and Red. Light Brown. The same Earth burnt, a little of the black Stone, a little of Red and White. Frangipane Colour. A little of the same Earth, twice as much of Red, and three times as much of Yellow. Light Frangipane. Little of the same Earth, great deal of Yellow, little of White, and the same quantity of Red as Yellow. Olive Colour. The same Earth, a little of Yellow, the quarter part of Red and Yellow. Wood Colour. A great deal of Yellow, little of White, little of the said Earth, and half as much of Red as of yellow. Treatise of Snuff. The manner of making Snuff. IF your Tobacco is in Roles, unrole it, and dry it in the Sun; if it is in Leaves, dry it in the same way, and being dry, beat it in a Mortar. The Sieve you make use of, must be of Cloth pretty thin, to let the biggest Grains of your Snuff pass through; you must Sift presently what you beat; for if you beat it too long, you'll reduce to Dust what is in Grains; the whole being in Powder, wash it after this manner. How to Cleanse Snuff. TAke a Bucket, or another Vessel alike, bigger than it need to contain the Snuff you will cleanse; the Bucket must have a stop to let the Water out when you will; line your Vessel within in the bottom, and round about the edges, with a Napkin of very strong and thick Cloth, lest the Snuff should pass through. Put your Snuff in the Vessel, with Water enough to dip it well; stir it in the Water, and let it soak till the next day; then pour the Water out, and squeeze it as much as you can out of the Cloth; pour in it more fresh Water, and wash your Snuff again, and let it soak as before; do so at least two or three times at once. This being done, you'll squeeze at last your Snuff as much as you can; then get some Osier hurdles, covered with strong and thick Cloth, and dry over them your Snuff in the Sun; don't fail to stir it every minute, to have it dry all over; when it is very dry, put it in your Bucket again, with a good quantity of sweet Perfumed Water, of what sort you like best, Roses, Angel, or Orange-flower-water are the best for Snuff: Let it be in that Water till the next day, then take it out, squeeze it gently, and let it dry again upon your hurdles, stirring it very carefully while it is a drying; being dry, pour over more of the same Water again, making it in a kind of a Paste; let it be dry once more; being thus dried and cleansed, it will easily take all manner of Smells of Flowers. This way to cleanse Snuff is the best; for the Snuff will the better take the smell you will give it; it is true, you cannot do it without wasting your Snuff very much; but if you will spare sweet Waters, and not lose much of your Snuff, here is another manner of cleansing it. Another way of Cleansing Snuff. PUT your Snuff to soak in the Water, only once for four and twenty Hours; then let the Water out, and squeeze the Snuff very well in the Cloth; dry it upon hurdles, stirring it as before; being dry, pour sweet Water over it, and make it as a Past; dry it again, and pour more Water to it, and dry it again, than it is fit to receive what smell you please: If you will Colour it Yellow or Red, you must do it before you Perfume it with Flowers. How to Colour Snuff of Yellow or Red Colours. TAKE some Oaker, Red or Yellow, which you will; suppose the bigness of an Egg, mix with it fine white Chalk to temper the Colour a little; bruise them upon a Marble Stone, with half an Ounce of Oil of sweet Almonds; being well mixed, pour to it some Water by degrees, and mix it in the mean while till it is well mixed with the Water, lay your Colour aside of the Marble; then dilute two Spoonfuls of Gum Adragant liquid; mix it with your Colour, and Grind them again, to mix them very well; pouring in the mean while Water over it: Then put the whole in an Earthen Pan; pour more Water, stirring it always, to the quantity of a Pint or thereabouts. This done, take what quantity of Snuff cleansed you please, and put it in a Pan or Vessel, and pour over it your Colour, working and mixing it very well with your Hands, making it like a Paste, not-very liquid but well soaked; leave your Snuff in the Colour till the next day; then dry it in the Sun upon clothes, stir it as fast as it dries; being dry, prepare a Gum to Gum it, after this manner: Bruise upon a Marble Gum Adragant dissolved in sweet Water; pour over it some Water, bruising still, and make your Gum very thin and clear; pour it in a Pan, that you may easily put some more Water in it; wet your Hands with that Gum, and rub your Snuff, and work it with your Hands, till it is Gummed every where over; then let it dry, stirring it every minute. Being very dry, pass your Snuff through the finest Sieve you can find; it will at that time be fit to be Perfumed with Flowers or any other Perfume. Snuff Perfumed with Flowers. THE Flowers much used for Perfuming Snuff, are Orange-flower-water, Jasmin, common Roses, musqued Roses and Tuberoses, other Flowers can hardly Perfume naturally, unless you use a great quantity of them, and add to them some Essence of the same Flowers, as you'll see in the Receipts for Perfuming Snuff; but when all is done the smell never last long, as in other Perfumes. Here is the manner how to use them in Perfuming Snuff. Get a Wooden Box, as big as you have occasion for, line within with dry Paper, lay in it a Bed of Snuff an Inch thick, than a Bed of Flowers, and so along till you have no more of it; let it lay so in the Flowers Twenty four Hours: then searce your Snuff, to take out the Flowers, and renew them at the same time; continue so doing four or five days; and when you think your Snuff is Perfumed enough with Flowers, keep it very close in your Boxes, in a very dry place; don't meddle with it when the Flowers are within, because it will not heat. Another manner of Perfuming Snuff with Flowers. GET a good quantity of Sheets of Paper dried before the Fire, of the bigness and shape or thereabouts of your Boxes; prick them all over with a big Pin; then to Perfume your Snuff with Flowers, lay a Bed of them an Inch thick in the Box; and over one Sheet of that Paper, and over the Paper a Bed of Flowers, and another sheet of Paper over the Flowers; lay over that sheet another Bed of Snuff, and continue so doing till you have none left: So the Flowers are between two Papers, and the Snuff too, without touching the Flowers; and by that means the Snuff takes naturally the Smell of the Flowers, because the same Smell is not corrupted or altered by the Snuff. Change your Flowers according to the Plenty you have of them; and when you take them out, take up only the sheets of Paper, and pass your Snuff through a fine hair Sieve to let your Snuff through and keep in the Flowers. Flower it so four or five days, and 'tis done. Snuff perfumed with Buds of Roses. TAKE as much Buds of Roses as you will, pluck out the green knots, and in their room put as many Cloves: Then throw them in a Glass-bottle well stopped, expose the Bottle to the hot sun three Weeks or a Month; you may use them after to perfume your Snuff, being cleansed they will give a very sweet Smell to it. Snuff perfumed with a great many sorts of Flowers. NOthing else is to be done, but to mix together Snuff perfumed with several sweet Flowers, and to prepare it so well by more or less of it, that you can hardly discern which Smell prevails, and 'tis done. The manner of making Snuff in Grains of different bigness. GET several sorts of Sieves, some of thin others of very thick Cloth, and so according to the courseness of your Cloth, you'll make the Grains of your Snuff in passing it through; you must not searce it but when it is perfumed with Flowers. Fine Spanish Snuff. THE true Spanish Snuff is very fine and reddish, to make it take red Snuff in Grains, beat it in a Mortar, and pass it very fine through a Sieve; and being cleansed before it is coloured, as I prescribe in the beginning of this Treatise, perfume it only with Flowers, then with some Spanish Perfume or other, and 'tis done. To perfume Snuff well, it is not enough to perfume it with Flowers, you must use other Perfumes; it is true, being only perfumed with Flowers, it may be good to be perfumed with the Perfumes we mention hereafter: I leave it to every one's Fancy, I'll say only this, That the Smell of Flowers does very well, mixed with the most sweet and precious Smells, and that they are of a stronger and more lasting Virtue. I do not mention here several Perfumes very ordinary, which every one may compose according to his Fancy: I give only the Receipts of the best and most Curious, it is easy for any body that understands the Smells good for Perfumes, to make them. How to Perfume Snuff in Grains, with Perfumes of different Smells. Cedra or Bergamot Snuff. IT is not necessary to use Snuff perfumed with Flowers, to perfume it with Bergamot Essence, it is enough if the Snuff is well cleansed; the reason is, because the Essence of Bergamot is of a very strong Smell, and penetrates it all over. Therefore pour only a few drops of it in an Ounce of Snuff, mingle it well, and 'tis done. Snuff of Neroly. THE Essence of Neroly being of a very strong Smell, use it as you have done the Essence of Bergamot, the Smell is strong and very fine, if you do not put too much, for it works through more than the Essence of Bergamot; observe that if you will have Snuff of Neroly, the Essence must be true and pure, for if it is mixed in the least, your Snuff will in time be of a Smell very unpleasant. Pongibon Snuff. TAKE a Pound of yellow Snuff perfumed with Orange flowers; beat in a little Mortar twelve Grains of Civet with a bit of Sugar, being well beaten, and mixed with a little of your Snuff, continue to pour it in the Mortar, mixing it still with the Pestle, till the Mortar is full; then take it out of the Mortar, add the remnant of the Pound of your Snuff to what was in the Mortar, and mix it very well with your hands: After that fill your Mortar half full of the same Snuff, and pour over it half an Ounce of Essence of Orange-flower-water, mixing it still with the Pestle, then fill up the Mortar with your Snuff, to mix the better the Essence: Take the Snuff out of the Mortar again, and mix it well with the other that was left, and your Snuff is done. It will be of a very sweet and lasting Smell; and though your Essence is very oily, your Snuff will not be so, nor the worse, if you do not put more than I prescribe. If the Snuff is perfumed with Jasmin-flowers, make use of Essence of the same Flowers, and so of other Flowers. All sorts of Snuff may be perfumed the same way. Snuff perfumed with Musk. TAKE Snuff perfumed with what sort of Flowers you like best, suppose a Pound, put in a little Mortar twenty Grains of Musk, with a bit of Sugar, beat them together, then put by degrees your Snuff in the Mortar till it is full, stirring it all still with the Pestle; then take it out and mix it very well with the rest of your Snuff. Snuff perfumed with Spanish Perfume. TAKE a Pound of Snuff perfumed with any sort of Flowers, beat in a little Mortar twenty Grains of Musk, with a little lump of Sugar; then put in gently your Snuff stirring it still: Your Mortar being full, empty it by, and cover it with the rest of your Snuff, lest it should lose its Virtue: Then beat in the Mortar ten Grains of Civet with a bit of Sugar, and put your Snuff gently to the top mixing it still; take it out and mix it very well with your hands with the r●●… Snuff perfumed with Perfume of Rome. TAKE a Pound of Snuff of what Perfume of Flowers you please; warm the little Mortar very well, and melt in it twenty Grains of Amber; put in your Snuff by degrees and stir it still, till your Mortar is half full; then take the Snuff out, put it by and cover it with the rest: This being done, beat in the same Mortar ten Grains of Musk with a bit of Sugar, throwing over it your Snuff, and being well mingled, mix it with the other, and cover it again; you must also beat five Grains of Civet with a bit of Sugar, mingle it with some of your Snuff, take it out again, and mix the whole together very well, your Snuff will be well perfumed. Snuff perfumed with Perfume of Maltha. TAKE a Pound of Snuff perfumed with Orange-flowers, warm the little Mortar, and melt in it twenty Grains of Amber, mix with it a little Snuff, putting always some of it in the Mortar, and stirring it with the Pestle till your Mortar is full; then take the Snuff out, and cover it with part of the rest left; beat after that in the Mortar ten Grains of Civet, with a little Sugar, throwing more Snuff and mixing it; then take it out, and mix the whole very well together. Snuff Ambered. TAKE a Pound of Snuff of any Flowers, warm the Water, and melt in it twenty four Grains of Amber; throw over some Snuff gently, mixing it still with the Pestle till the Mortar is full, take it out, and mix it with the rest that is left, 'tis done. As in Perfumes every one has his Opinion, and a great many perhaps love Snuff very well perfumed, some will have it of a sweet Smell, and yet strong, I hope I have pleased them in my Receipts. For if the Smells are too strong, let them put more Snuff to it after it has been perfumed, and it will be sweeter, more or less will do the business, because the Preparations are good: but above all, keep your Snuff very close in your Boxes, lest it should be spoiled and lose its Virtue and Smell. FINIS. ORoonoko, A Tragedy, Written by Tho. Southern. Printed for S. Buckley.