THE Manner of Raising, Ordering, AND IMPROVING Forrest-Trees: ALSO, How to Plant, Make and Keep WOODS, WALKS, AVENUES, LAWNS, HEDGES, etc.  
WITH Several FIGURES proper for Avenues and Walks to End in, and convenient Figures for Lawns.  
Also RULES and TABLES showing how the Ingenious Planter may measure Superficial Figures, with Rules how to divide Woods or Land, and how to measure Timber and other Solid Bodies, either by Arithmetic or Geometry, showing the Use of that most Excellent Line, the Line of Numbers, by several New Examples; with many other Rules, useful for most Men.  
By M. COOK.  
LONDON, Printed for Peter Parker at the Leg and Star over against the Royal Exchange in Cornhill, 1676.   

TO HIS EXCELLENCY Arthur Capell, Lord Lieutenant and General Governor of the Kingdom of IRELAND, Earl of Essex, Viscount Maldon, Lord Capell, Baron of Hadham, Lord Lieutenant of Hartfordshire, and one of the King's most Honourable Privy Council, etc.  
May it please your Excellency,  
DID I not very well know your great Understanding in, and Love to the Subject of the ensuing Discourse, I durst not assume the Boldness to implore your Honour's Patronage of it; But being well assured, that you have not been only a Spectator, but an Actor in most of what is treated of in the ensuing Lines; for, to your Eternal Praise be it spoken, there is many a fine Tree which you have Nursed up from Seeds sown by your own hands, and many thousands more which you have commanded me to raise.  
Therefore, my Lord, I humbly crave your Pardon for the Presumption and Imperfection of the Penman; and though your Excellency knows full well how to prune young Trees, yet I hope you will pass by the impertinent and superfluous Lines in this my Plantation; which, though I have endeavoured to keep as well pruned from Errors, and as clean from Weeds as I could, yet 'tis possible there may be some things in it, which some may term as ill: But to You all things in it are so well known, that I hope both it and I shall find such shelter and support by your favourable Aspect, as that we need not to fear the Storms of the ignorant or negligent Planters.  
And my Lord, since the Art of Raising and Improving of Trees, hath ever been esteemed amongst the truly Noble, Wise, Ingenious and most refined Spirits of the World from Age to Age, and chiefly maintained and practised by them; and since this Property is Naturally inherent in You, (you being not only a great Lover of this Art, but also most skilful in it) I humbly presume to Dedicate these my Observations to your Lordship; not being ignorant, that he who is most knowing in any thing, is the best able to judge of the same; and that this my Opinion, of your Honour's Ability and Promptitude in promoting the Planting and Improving of Forrest-trees, is surely grounded, the Large Plantation you have made will abundantly testify. But I humbly beg your Lordships Pardon for this Presumption, not without hopes that my good Meaning may obtain it; and since my good Wishes and the best of my Services is all I can contribute to You, these shall never be wanting from  
My LORD, Your Excellencies most Humble and most Obedient Servant to serve You whilst I bear the Name of Moses Cook.   

TO The Courteous READER.  
AMongst the many Books that are sent into the world in this Age, I have adventured to increase the Number by this one. I know there be many Pamphlets, prodigious Histories and Romances, invented by men's Fancies, which abuse many Noble Spirits, in reading of which they spend their time in vain, and dull their Wits: Which Books are more fit for Women than Men. For they will furnish them with strange Stories, and a few fine words. Also there be many Books of Disputes in Divinity, which tend more to make our Differences the greater, than any ways to edify or unite us: therefore if your Genius leads you to read such Books, this is not for your Fancy.  
But if you take delight in Planting or Gardening, or to raise and improve Forrest-trees, or to make Walks, Avenues or Lawns; to plant or improve your Woods, Hedges, etc. or to measure most sorts of superficial or solid Figures, either by Arithmetic or Geometry, with several other Rules of the same Nature, as the Titles of each Chapter, (but especially the Chapters themselves) will more fully inform you; then I hope this Book will be of good use to you: For here are several Rules, approved of by several Noble and Ingenious Men, which are as faithfully delivered, as they are really intended for the good of this Nation, and all those that will put them in practice; which if you please to do, you will employ your time so well, that you will never have cause to say, it is ill spent; and if once you do but step forward one step, and see but any success of your Labours, you will need then no Logicians Arguments, nor no Rhetoricians Eloquence to persuade you to proceed. And for your better Encouragement know, that it hath been and is the Delight and Practice of Kings, Princes, Philosophers, and all Noble spirited and wise Men: For have not many of them quitted their great Employs, and taken upon them this pleasing Art of Planting and Gardening, as is proved by several? See the Prefaces of Perkinson's, Gerard's, the Curate of Henonville's, and several others. For Almighty God hath Imprinted in the Hearts of most wise men such a Love to Plants in part, as their Father Adam had in his state of Innocency; that those noble and useful Works, which the Almighty made for the use of Man, and his Glory, should be the more common for their excellent use to the Sons of Men; and that they should take care of those which are tender, and want the more care, lest they should be lost; and also that both their Virtues and their Beauties should be known in several parts of the World, that he might be the more Admired and Glorified.  
For I do believe that the Blessing of God is much Assisting to those who Love and endeavour to Improve and Preserve his Works; for God's Works and his Word are no such different things; and also it hath been and is observed, that those that are Wasters and wilful Spoilers of Trees and Plants without just Reason so to do, have seldom prospered in this World. See this confirmed by Esquire Evelyn, in his Preface to his Discourse of Forrest-trees. Therefore, you that are Lovers of Trees and Plants, if once you have them, let your Love be showed in the Care you take of them, to keep them from cattle and other Inconveniencies, then will you not only have Pleasure and Profit of them, but others, by being defended from the malignant and sharp Air by their Heads and Bodies, and also shaded from the violent Heats, and their sweet Flowers, and their refreshing Fruit will be useful to several men.  
Also Planting and Gardening adds much to the Health and Content of Man; and these two Jewels, no man that well understands himself, would willingly be without: For it is not only set down for a certain Truth by many wise Men, but confirmed by Experience. The Learned Lord Bacon commends the following of the Plough in fresh Ground, to be very healthful for Man; but more the Digging in Gardens, saying, It is best to take the Air of the Earth new turned up by Digging with the Spade, or standing by him that diggeth: He tells you also that he knew a great Man, that lived long, who had a clean Clod of Earth brought to him every Morning as he sat in his Bed, and would hold his Head over it a good pretty while, etc. See pag. 203. of his Natural History. For though the Earth be twofold, External or Visible, and Internal or Invisible; the External is not the Element, but the Body of the Element, in which is the Sulphur, Mercury and Salt; for the Element of the Earth is Life and Spirit, wherein lies the Astra's of the Earth which bring forth all growing things; for it hath in itself the Seeds and seminal Virtues of all things; for as it is made fruitful by all the other Elements, so it bringeth forth all things out of itself, as Trees, Herbs and Flowers; and every one of these is again the Astrum and Seed: See Philosophy Reform, p. 38. Thus is showed, that the Earth hath in it the Virtues of all Herbs; it must then be also healthful as they be: But for that part of the Earth that is near the Surface, the Plants suck most of its Virtue into them; therefore that which lieth deeper may be the more healthful for Man to smell of for Consumption, Loss of Appetite, etc. And Trees do not only catch the Mildew and other offensive Dews with their Leaves, but screen the Air of other bad ones, and makes it much the healthfuller for Man. Therefore, you that live near to Fens, Moors, and other unhealthful places, plant your Seats round with Trees, and some of those that yield healthful smells: For it is very certain, what the aforesaid Learned Author saith, p. 204. That Odours do Nourish; for he saith, he knew a Gentleman that would fast three or four days, without Meat, Bread or Drink, by only smelling to a great wisp of Herbs, etc. And in p. 44. in the History of his Life and Death, saith, That Odours are especially profitable for the Comforting of the Heart: And further he saith, We commend above all other Odours, that of Plants growing and not plucked, taken in the open Air, as Violets, Gillyflowers, Pinks, Bean-flowers, Linetree Blossoms, Honeysuckles, Wall-flowers, Roses, Mints, Lavender, etc. Orange-trees, Citron, Myrtles, etc. Therefore to walk or sit near the breath of these Plants, would not be neglected.  
Thus you see this Learned man takes notice of the Linetree; and if the simple Water that is distilled from the Flowers, be good against the Plague, or other infectious Diseases, as certain it is, then sure the smell from the Blossoms themselves must be very good; therefore excellent to plant near your Houses: And (as I have heard) a wise Man's Opinion was, That the Line-trees in the Cities in Holland add much to the Health of the Inhabitants; and it is my belief. I have hinted at the bigness of one Lime or Linetree, in the ensuing lines, and shall here show you, for your further encouragement to plant and preserve Trees, the Content of one Tree, as I had it from the Honourable Sir Henry Capell as followeth.  

A Witch-Elm in Sir Walter Baggott's Park in the County of Stafford.  
Two Men five days felling it.  
It lay 40 yards in Length.  
The Stool five yards two foot over.  
Fourteen Load of Wood broke in the fall.  
Forty eight Load in the Top.  
Eighty pair of Naves were made out of it.  
Eight thousand six hundred and sixty foot of Board's and Planks.  
It cost Ten pounds seventeen shillings Sawing.  
The whole Substance was conceived to be 97 Tuns.  
It was felled in the Year 1674.   
And now I shall set before you some Rocks, which are in some Books, and for their strangeness are entertained too long, to the Abuse of many: But these which I mark here, pray endeavour to avoid.  
First Error: It is affirmed by some, that if you put your Seeds in a Box, Shell, or Squill, and so set them in the Ground, these seeds will unite in one, and so bring forth larger and better Fruit; but if they should join in Roots or Branches, that will not make the Fruit the better or larger, nor of two kinds in Taste, as some have said. I rather think that putting seeds into such things will stupefy them and destroy them; but if they should unite in one shoot, that shoot that groweth the fastest would lead all the sap into its Head, and so strain it through its Pores, that it would make no more Alteration of a Fruit, that such a shoot would Naturally have had, than a Graft doth by being grafted on several stocks.  
For what Alteration there is of Plants, it is from their Seed, and is stamped in them at their first Conception and Nativity, which the Art of Man helpeth and may improve somewhat, but never to alter the Kind, by Budding, Grafting, etc.  
I shall not trouble you and myself in Answering these following Errors; but if you be not satisfied with my saying they are so, I shall answer them when you desire me, as well as I can: So I shall only name them, and show you them as I have found them.  
Second Error: To water Seeds with coloured water; or Plants, to make them produce what coloured Flowers or Fruit you please; It is in vain to think so.  
Third Er. To graft or bud Stone-Fruit, or Kernels, or Nuts, or to bud such Fruit as beareth Kernels on such as beareth Nuts or Stones; or to bud Fruits-trees on Forest, and the contrary; or to graft or bud Figs on Peaches, or Apricocks; or to bud any sort of Trees on Coleworts; or to bud Peaches on the Mulberry-tree to have them Early; or to bud Damsons on Gooseberry, Mulberry or Cherries, to have them Ripe all Summer; or by budding Cherries on these Stocks, and to wet them in Honey and Cloves, makes them taste sweet and spicy; or by budding or grafting, to make a Fruit taste half an Apple and half a Pear, or half a Pippin and half a Pearmain; or an Apple half-sweet, half-soure; or to graft a Rose on a Holly; or to graft Cherries on other Stone-fruit to come without Stones; or to graft a Vine on a Cherry; or to take the Pith out of two Grafts, and then join them together and graft them, brings a Fruit without Kernels, so they may when both grow; or to graft a Cyon with the small End downward, will make it bring a Fruit without Core: These, and the like, are great Errors, and very false in Grafting and Budding.  
Fourth Er. To set a whole Apple or Pear, the Pippins will come forth in one shoot; or to set any sort of Fruit with the fleshy part on; are also great Errors.  
Fifth Er. To bore holes in Trees, and to put Honey or other sweet things into them, to make them bear more and sweet Fruit; is also a great Fallacy.  
Sixth Er. To think that the Sap of Trees at the Approach of Winter falleth from the Head into the Root, is a gross mistake. Many more there are which I could count up; but these are too many, either to be written or kept in Memory.  
Thus having showed you some Errors, I here beg Pardon for mine own that are in this Book. I know I have committed Tautology; the Reason is, I have been long in taking true Observations: but I hope that which is so useful, cannot be too often repeated. I have used Arithmetic the more, because it is so useful to the ingenious Planter; for I have not laboured to please myself only, but for all those that seek Wisdom: For the Gifts of God are improved by communicating, and Knowledge thriveth as Ingenuity is improved and communicated: for Ingenuity hath these Properties of Memory and Charity, the more you use it, the better it is; and the more you give of it, the more you shall have.  
And now I shall show you how I did proceed in that which I was born to, not made: I always took Notes of what I did set or sow, the Time, and on what Ground, etc. and when it proved well, I noted it so; but when ill, I did endeavouras much as I could to know the Reason; which when once I found, I noted it well: I also always was very wary of taking things upon trust; for many Learned men have abused their Works by so doing; and if any man told me any thing, unless he had sufficient Experience of it, or could give very good Reasons why it was so, I always was incredulous of it, unless my Judgement told me it were possible, or he by Discourse made it plain to me: For no man ought to deprive another of the Liberty of Humane Ingenuity, that hath Light of Nature to discern and judge by.  
I have often been blamed by Noblemen, for not consenting to the Opinion of some of their Favourites; for when their Notions were not grounded on Reason, or had not been proved by Experience, (though never so new) I could not well entertain them. So if you find any thing in these few Lines, that hath not Reason in it, prove by Experience whether it is true or not: And do not say, It is so or so, because I say it; but as you find it. And let me be plain with you further; always when I undertook any difficult business, I was as careful as I could be, to elect a fit time to begin that business in: And to the praise of God I speak it, I always had the greatest success in my greatest undertake, though many times I have been altogether Ignorant in them; and many times failed in small things, when I thought of the least danger. I know some will smile at this Truth, but let them laugh that win; I never lost by it. The wisest man that ever was, tells you, There is a Time for all things; and certainly there is in Sowing, Grafting and Gardening: For it shall be my Opinion, 
To think and judge as cause I find,  
My Rule is not another's Mind.   
Or as the ingenious Mr. Cowley hath it from the Learned Dubartas: 
Senseless is he who (without blush) denies,  
What to sound Senses most Apparent lies;  
And 'gainst Experience he that spits Fallacians,  
Is to be hissed from Learned Disputations;  
And such is he that doth affirm the Stars  
To have no force on these Inferiors.   
But to conclude; I have here showed you some Rules how to prune Forrest-trees, which well done adds much to their shape, growth, and long life; Every one that makes any Observation of Trees seeth this truth confirmed in their sshape; and though many are against pruning of Forrest-trees, yet it adds much to their growth; and if done by a skilful hand and at fit times, it adds much to the goodness of the Timber, though several (its possible) will tell you to the contrary, for it is the borrower that things of trust, that is Truth's greatest greatest Opposer: But to confirm the growth by pruning, take this Example: There grew a young Oak near the Orange-house at Cashiobury, about nine inches Diameter, with many young Boughs on the sides, which rob the Head so much, that it did shoot but little, having more boughs than the Roots could well maintain, I took off the side-boughs in the year 1669; and in the year 1675, My Lord ordered me to fallen it, it standing too near a Walk we had made. My Lord being at Cashiobury and discoursing of pruning Forrest-trees with the ingenious Artists Sir Samuel Moreland and Hugh May Esquire, I showed them the Truth confirmed in this Tree; for that year it was pruned it did grow ⅖ of an Inch, which was near as it had grown in five years before; It continued that growth very near for the six years after, as did plainly appear by Annual Circles to them and me. And as good Pruning doth help the growth of Trees, so also it doth prolong their Life: For it is well known that the pruning of some Annual Plants will make them live more years than one; for good Pruning may take off that which ill pruning hath left, or the wind, which otherwise would destroy the Tree in little time. And as I have said something in this Book of Pruning Forrest-trees, so I wish some able man would show some Rules, or his Judgement of Pruning all sorts of Fruit-trees and Plants that bear Fruit, that there might be some light for a man to see to ground his Reasons on; for we are much to seek both in the manner how, and the Time when to Prune our Fruit-trees, both to Improve them and their Fruit.  
I also have showed you several Rules of Artificial Arithmetic by the Canon of Logarithms, and several Rules of the Line of Numbers or Gunter's Line; which for their excellent uses cannot be made too common, or too well known to the Ingenious.  
And Lastly, I have not bushelled my Light, but have set it to the Public view; which if it enlighten thee in the good and true way which I intent, to thy benefit and pleasure, it's possible I shall do thee, if the Lord permit, some other piece of service, farther to direct thee in the Truth.  
My request to thee is to Correct the mispointing, or paging, for my business is such, that I cannot see it Corrected myself, but trusting in your goodness shall conclude: 
Small faults if you'll pardon, and some amend,  
Then I'll be yours to my Life's end;   
From Cashiobury near Watford, Novemb. 16. An. 1675. M. Cook.   

CHAP. I.  
Of the several Ways of Raising Trees: The best for Forrest-trees is by their Seeds, Keys, or Nuts, etc.  
YOu may raise most sorts of Trees by Laying; the Ash being one of the worst, of any I have experienced: but it will take by Laying; if you be an observer of the growth of the Ash, you then may read the Reason plainly, if that you keep but the eyes of your Understanding open, which I take to be this: Of all the Trees that I know, an Ash shoots with the straightest shot from his Seed, and so continues till it comes to a great height, unless by accident; therefore seldom touching the ground by its own growth: But if it should, it having no Arms to defend it against cattle, and they being great lovers of the tops and leaves, prevent its natural Increase that way, finding itself rarely or never increased by this kind of propagation, it being not accustomed to Laying, therefore the harder to grow.  
Your Oak will grow of Laying, so will your Elm very frequently, as I have seen in several Hedges, without any thing of Art: As you may see the great leaved Elm thrive well of a Layer on a bank by the Road-side from Ware to the Right Woshipfull Sir Thomas Leventhorps' house called Blacks-Ware. It is worth your noting, to increase this useful wood in your Hedges; as also other sorts of Wood, which will be much for your profit, and also a great improvement to your Fence, though it be at present altogether neglected. Of the manner and several ways of Laying, see the Fifth Chapter.  
2. Several sorts of Trees will grow of Cuttings; the Manner and Time I shall show in the succeeding Chapter. But let me now invite you when you fell your Woods, to give some of these Cuttings Quarter's in the Naked places, and you shall find them afterwards to pay you well for their Board: Remember your Hedges also where they want Guests to furnish them.  
You may raise many sorts of Trees by the Roots, or part of Roots of other Trees: The Kind's and Manner are showed hereafter, which if you love your Woods and yourself, you may take notice of.  
3. Many sorts of Trees may be increased on other Stocks by Budding or Grafting, but this is more proper for Fruit-trees than for your Forest: For take it for granted, that it hinders the aspiring growth of Trees, and makes them bear more. I know my Lord Bacon tells you of Budding the Elm, and it will have greater leaves than ordinary: It is likely, if you bud the great-leaved Elm upon the small-leaved whilst it is young and full of sap, it will have larger leaves, especially than an old tree; but that I judge signifies little.  
Enquiry may be made, whether by budding the Elm and also the Linetree, if it would not make their seeds keep better than they do many years with us: I wish it were tried. As for the manner of Budding and Grafting, I refer you to other subjects, for there are many have written largely thereof.  
4. The last and best way to raise your Forrest-trees, is by their Seeds; and how to do that, I shall show you in every particular Chapter, by me experienced. I wish every Nobleman or Gentleman that takes delight in these stately Monuments, would follow the Example of the Right Honourable, and very much knowing in these Lines, the Earl of Essex, who hath now several thousands of my Raising.  
Let me be bold to tell you, that one Ash-tree raised in a Nursery, and ordered as is hereafter showed, is worth five taken out of a Wood For there you shall have them grow taper and strong, so that when you remove them, cut but off some of the side-boughs, and set them with great hopes of a stately Timber-tree. But if you take them out of a Wood, then will they be not so well rooted, nor taper, but top-heavy; therefore you must be forced to take off the Heads before you set them, and then expect at best but a good Pollard; and it is possible you may wait long before you get him to thrive: For the head being taken off, leaves such a wound which is long a curing; which you must do, or else his Roots will not maintain that Head. Ever let me advise you to be as sparing in taking off the leading top-shot of an Ash or Walnut as you can possible.  
Thus have I showed the several ways to raise Trees; for the performing of the same, read hereafter; and this is certain, that a few of your Trees raised in a Nursery, are much better than those you take out of Woods. My Lord was a little before I came to him at some Charge more than ordinary to raise some Oaks: Their way was to fence in a great Oak in the Park, and then digged the ground; and when the Acorns were most of them down, than they raked them in: By this Husbandry, my Lord had got eight young Oaks about six year old: I persuaded his Honour to take up his Fence, satisfying him we should raise them at a much cheaper lay. He therefore ordered me to take up these Oaks very carefully: I having two Men then at work with me, I bid the elder go and take up these Oaks, but could not get him to go by no means; he also had possessed the other with such a tragical story, that I could not persuade him; which was, that there were few which took up an Oak, but either they or it died in a little time after. I told them that it was possible the Oaks might die in a short time, but they never the sooner. The Reason may be the same with that before, of raising an Ash by laying: It being not used to be removed, makes them the more difficult to grow when they are. But I went and took up my eight Trees, and lost Six of them the Winter following. Had they been taken up at two years' growth, and the tap-root cut, you afterwards might remove them with little danger. I judge, if you can, it will not be amiss to save your Acorns or seeds of this Tree that hath been removed.   

CHAP. II.  
How to observe and know the Nature of Seeds, so as the better to raise them.  
I Ever observed the shape, taste, skin or shell, that my Keys, Nuts, Stones, Kernels, or Seeds had; and if I found by their shape, they were pory, and by feeling spongy, tasting little or very mild; I than did conclude to sow these sorts of Seeds as soon as they were ripe, or as soon at least as I received them; which if they were kept but a little after the time of their being ripe, I then expected but little success of those Seeds. To give you a taste of this Novelty, observe but these few among many more, that is, the Elm, Sallow, Poplar, etc. and Angelico, Paspere, or Garden Sampire, Scosanara, etc.  
I know 'tis a Tradition, that the Elm and Sallow have no seeds: Then how could I raise several of them of Seeds, as I have done? But if you will not believe me, I pray you ask the Earl of Essex, or several others therefore.  
Be gone Tradition, never more appear,  
Out of the Kallendar before next year.  
Truth with Experience through this Nation  
Shall Sainted be by a right Observation.  
Leave room Astrologers for Truth, and see  
You write it next year in your Diary.  
Now those Seeds that are of Taste mild, Skin or Shell close, you may keep them till the Spring approach, and longer, if temperately dried; and dry, keep as your Acorns, and your Chestnuts, etc. but the Spring after they be gathered is a sure season to sow them, therefore defer no longer.  
But as for your Seeds that are of a hot or bitter taste, or have close skins or shells, you may keep them till the Autumn following after they be gathered, if occasion be, if they be ripe gathered and dry kept, so the fleshy part be clean taken off when that is ripe: Though I know an ingenious person did hold, that to sow them with their flesh on, (as Peaches or Cherries,) they would grow as well, as he said; but that was his mistake: For the fleshy part was ordained by the Almighty for the use of Man, Beasts or Birds, and tends nothing to the growth of the Seed or Stone, but rather to its dissolution, by stupefying it, as I have tried by sowing the Kernels of rotten Pears and Apples, which would not grow though but a little time rotten. There be many Stones, Keys and Seeds which be of a hot and bitter taste, as your Ash, Peaches, Almonds, the Mizerion, Mustardseed, etc. yet though I say they may be kept long, yet I advise you not to neglect your season; for many of these Seeds and others will lie near two years in the Ground before they come up: if you sow them in October, it will be the Spring come Twelvemonths before they come up; and if you sow them Early in the Spring, they then will come up the next Spring.  
Another way whereby you may know Seed of this Nature, is, by their long hanging on the trees: for there, Nature finding itself strong, taketh the less care to seek out early to preserve its kind, and also Almighty God hath made these very useful for the Creatures in this world, therefore hath ordered it thus by his Divine Providence. The Ash, Holly, etc. hang long on the tree, and lie long in the ground, the Elm, Sallow, Sycamore, fall soon, and come up soon.   

CHAP. III.  
The Shape of Seeds and their Weight do Inform you how to set them.  
THe very Form and Shape of Seeds hath instructed me how to set them: as an Acorn falls to the ground most with its small End downwards: Thus if they fall upon Mold or Moss, you may observe the most of them to be on one side, with the small end tending most to the Earth. And I suppose that this posture is the best for to set any Stone or Nut, if you will be curious: For if you observe any Seed, of what Tree soever it be that grows in England, first it puts forth a Root at the small End, and when that Root hath laid hold of the Ground, than it puts forth the shot for the tree at the very same place where the Root came. Then seeing that both Root and shoot put out at the small End, if set with the small End downwards, the Body of the Stone or Seed may hinder the shoot; so that it is the best way to lay them on their sides in the Ground: if they be heavy seeds you may sow them the deeper, as Acorn, Peach, Apricock, Walnut, Chesnut, etc. about two or three Inches deep.  
If light Seed, then cover them with but little Mould, as the Elm, etc. as ½ an Inch deep.  
To conclude then, lay the flattest side of your Seed downwards; as if it be a Peach stone, set it as it will lie on a Table, or the like, and it will lie with the Crack where the shell parts uppermost, and the other crack lowermost to let out the water, as I judge; for Kernels in Stones or Shells do not love too much water at first.  
Thus have I showed you the several ways to raise Trees: That is, how they may be raised, and how to know the time, at least to assist you to know the time to set them by their shapes, etc. as also how to set them the best way by their Form and Weight, which may be some assisting to you, if you meet with far-Countrey seeds.  
My Lord had thirteen sorts of strange seeds sent him, as I remember from Goa: I never saw the like, nor none that saw them here. By the help of those aforesaid Reasons, I raised ten of the thirteen sorts, though some of them lay almost a year in the ground: But I also must tell you I lost all my ten sorts the first Winter, but one sort, and that the second, for want of a Green-house: some of them I suppose were Annuels. I shall give you one Chapter more of Seeds, and then I will show you fully what as yet I have but named.  
O great Jehovah, thee I do adore,  
Thy works I do admire, and thee implore  
So to assist me, as that I may write  
With Solomon's Wisdom, that I may indite  
My few lines so that they may be  
Useful unto this Land, pleasing to thee.   

CHAP. IU.  
Observations of all sorts of Keys and Seeds.  
LEt your Keys be through-ripe, or when you find them to begin to fall much, which is a sure sign of any Fruit or seeds Ripeness, (unless by accident) gather them off some young, strait, thriving tree: My reason of gathering them from off a young thriving tree, is▪ then will your Keys or seed be the larger and solider; therefore by consequence they be the abler and likelier to shoot the stronger, and to maintain themselves the better: And I know by Experience, that the seeds gathered of old Plants or Trees, or old seeds, so the seeds be perfect, will come up somewhat sooner than the seed of young Trees: my aforesaid Reason doth this somewhat demonstrate; or take it thus, Nature finding herself weak in these Seeds, doth (like a provident Mother) seek the sooner to provide for her weak Children; as a great Philosopher and Naturalist saith, That Nature is one in divers things, and various in one thing. See Parad. pag. 90. of the Tree of Life.  
And to gather them off a strait and thriving tree, 'tis likelier they will run more up, and grow straighter than those which be gathered of pollard's. This I know, that Nature doth delight very much in Imitation, and in Plants and Trees like doth endeavour to produce its like: though I know, that by the situation, or ground, or grafting of some sort of Stocks, that by any of these the trees may and will alter something, both in growth and largeness of Fruit, and earlyer, or the contrary, but the species will be still the same. To which I add, good keeping or dressing of any tree, doth much improve its growth, and largeness of Fruit or Seeds.  
Now the Seed being that part of the Plant which is endowed with a Vital Faculty to bring forth its like, it contains potentially the whole Plant in it, therefore it may and is the more to be observed: Or as a learned Physician hath it, speaking of Man and the World; The Chaos or first Matter was made a World, and of this World was made Man: so a Tree groweth from the Seed, the Seed is the beginning of the Tree, and in every grain or seed of a Tree there lies hid another three. See Philosophy Reform, page 58.  
The Industrious Farmer or Yeoman will take care that the Grain which he soweth be of the best Kind for Largeness and Goodness in every particular, and hath oft found by Experience to his loss, that the Corn which is taken to sow from that which was your smooted or mill dewed, doth oft produce smooted or black Corn again; he knowing also that this black Corn which is like dust within, will not grow: Then what should be the Reason that that which grows in the same Ear will ofttimes produce black smooted Corn, that hath nothing but a little black dust in it, or a black flinty Kernel of little or no use, but harmful to the rest, though that which you sow seem sound, and a very likely berryed Corn? When I have found by Experience, that Wheat which hath not been so likely to the Eye as that which was freer from smooted Corn, hath brought or produced clearer Corn by much than the others. Now I have discoursed with some which would not spare to say positively, that your smooted or black Wheat would grow, and so produce black Wheat again, which is a great Mistake: But this I know, that your Wheat which is like black dust within, will not grow at all; nor some of your black flinty Wheat, but some of it will produce blades, some stalks, with ears, but no sound grain; some with good and bad in one ear, and so the nearer it is to perfect sound grain, the nearer it produceth its like: Yet though this may and will produce some good and some bad, as I say, yet no black smooted grain (unless meeting with some accidental Cause, if the Grain be perfect sound) but according to its defect so may be the success of your Crop.  
Now this which I call the Accidental Cause, is the Mildew, which may well be so called, because of its Malignity, especially to Wheat and Hops, because in them most perfected though many other Plants suffer as much: This Maldew or Mildew, is a Dew which is drawn from the Earth and Herbs in a dry and calm time, and when Herbs are in their prime, by the Sun; and wanting wind to fan off their grossness, and also being drawn from Herbs, which make it thick and sweet, and not so active to aspire: 'tis most in your enclosed Grounds and Valleys: and to those grounds which lie tending to the Oriental part of the Heavens, as all Blasting winds are.  
Now I suppose these may be the Reasons your Valleys do afford more moisture than your Hills, as is oft seen by your Mists which are more frequent in them than on Hills: this being drawn up by the Sun in the Daytime, and wanting wind to assist its Motion (as I said before) doth hang in the lower Region, and when the Sun sets, it falls upon your Plants with its thick clammy substance; and in those whose bark is tender and young, and pores open with the heat of the season, hinders the sap of the Plant or Tree to ascend to nourish his flowers or shoot. 'Tis observed, that when your Wheat doth shoot up to Ear and flower, it doth it suddenly, and likewise your Hops, and then this Clammy or Mildew coming upon it before the Air hath hardened it, to resist it; For the Air being warm, Nature doth not so much as dream of this unkind Enemy: And if it falls on Wheat when the Ear is new form, then there is the black smooty Wheat; but if the Ear hath blown even when or before it comes, or that the whole stalk be not surrounded with it, than you shall have some of your grains good, and some bad, according as they were in setting, or find Nourishment.  
I have oft observed in your black Heart, white Heart, and other great-leaved Cherries, this Dew to fall upon them at the top, just at the beginning of Midsummer shoot, and hath so stopped the shoot, that it hath shot forth in other places below; and on the top of the shoots you may see many little Flies feeding on this Dew; and on the Leaves of Oak and Maple, 'tis plainly to be seen and tasted; and though destructive to Corn, etc. yet it is mighty Relief to the industrious Bees.  
The Reason why those grounds which hang from the Horizon to the East, are most subject to this Dew, and to Blasting, as it is termed, may be (as I judge) the Sun's drawing these vapours towards it; just as a great Fire draweth the Air in a Room to it so the Sun having set these in Motion, yet not having strength enough to draw them into the middle Region, to form them into a Cloud, doth yet draw them till he is below our Horizon, than these Dews tend to the Earth from whence they were taken, and in motion to the West do as it were fall upon that Ground which hangs Eastward at right Angles, therefore offensive to them most.  
But since I am speaking of this useful Grain Wheat, I shall take notice of that which I know is used with good success: They take their Seed-wheat, and steep it twenty or twenty four hours in water and Salt, which is found by experience to do good to the Wheat against the blackness, and helps it in its growth; the Reasons I conceive are these: The steeping it prepares it for its spearing, and makes it take root the sooner; therefore if late in sowing, steep the longer; if early, not so long: And if there be any Grain that is not perfect sound, this will either kill or cure it. And I suppose that Brine to Wheat, is as Sack to a young Child, a little doth a great deal of good; but have a care you do not let it lie too long in a strong Brine, lest you stupefy it, or kill it with too much Kindness. I do advise my Countrymen, if late in sowing any of their Grains, to steep especially Barley, as well as Wheat; if your Grain be speared, it is never the worse, provided you sow it before the spear be chilled or dried; therefore commit it to the Ground, and cover it as you can. Your Wheat, Oats, and Barley differ much in their growth from other seeds; for they put forth their roots at the great end, and then one blade or long leaf at the small end, which comes between the skin and the body of the seed. Your Beans and Pease put forth their Root at the side, and then the same sort of Leaf, at the same place where the Root came out, that grows on the stalks.  
So doth your Walnut, Chesnut, Horse-Chesnut, Peaches, Almonds, Apricocks, Plumbs, etc. and the only difference from Beans and Pease, is, that these Stone-fruits put forth at the small ends, and the other always at the sides.  
In like manner there be several sorts of Trees, and most sorts of Plants that be small, which put forth Root at the small end; and as soon as that Root hath laid hold of the ground, they then send out two false Leaves, nothing like those that grow on the Tree or Plant, which two false Leaves are the seed, which divides into two parts, and so stand some small time on the top of the ground: and then between these two false Leaves comes forth a Shoot, which produceth leaves like those of the Tree or Plant from whence it came. Of this way of growth, there be an infinite number both of Trees and Plants, as the Elm, Ash, Sycamore, Maple, Pear, Apple, Quince, and the most sorts of the seeds of Trees which are not environed by Stones or Shells: of seeds, the Melon, Parsnip, Carrot, Carduus, Angelica, and indeed most sorts of seeds.   

CHAP. V.  
Of the several ways to raise Forrest-trees, or others; and how to perform the same by Laying.  
THose sorts of Trees which will grow of Cuttings, are the easiest to raise by Laying, some of which sorts you may see in the next Chapter.  
Now touching the best time for laying your Layers of Trees▪ observe, that if they be Trees that hold their Leaf all Winter, as Firres, Pines, Holly, Yew, Box, Bayes, Laurels, Elix, etc. Let such be laid about the latter end of August.  
But if they be such as shed their Leaf in Winter, as Oak, Elm, Line, Sycamore, Apple, Pear, Mulberry, etc. let such be laid about the middle of October. I do grant that you may lay at any time of the Year, but these times I take to be the best; for than they have the whole Winter and Summer to prepare and draw Root in, at that time of the year the Sun having so much power on the sap of the Tree, as to feed the Leaf and Bud, but not to make a shoot: and if that little sap that rises, be hindered, as it is by some of the following ways of laying, the Leaves and Buds yet gently craving of the Layer, makes the Layer prepare for Root, or put forth root a little to maintain itself, being it finds it cannot have it from the Mother-plant: and being it wants but little Nourishment at that time of the Year, I think it is better to lay Layers of Trees, and to set Cuttings, than at other times: In Summer when the sap is much abounding, or in Winter when the sap stirs little, or in the Spring when the sap begins to rise; for than it comes too suddenly to draw sap from the Layer before it hath drawn or prepared for root: for Nature must be courted gently; though I know in small Plants, the Spring or Summer doth very well, for they being short-lived, are therefore the quicker in drawing root: and besides that, Trees are many times laid, as they are not.  
As for those Trees that are apt to grow of Cuttings, take but some of the boughs, and lay them into the Ground, covering them about half a foot with fresh fine Mould, leaving them with the end of your Layer about one foot, or a foot and a half out of the ground, keeping them moist in Summer; and in Twelve months' time you may remove them if rooted, if not, let them lie longer.  
Another way is, take a Bough you intent to lay, and cut it half way through right cross the wood, then slit it up towards the end, half a foot, or according as your Layer is in bigness, lay the slitted place into the ground, and you shall find that slitted place take root, if laid as the former, and so ordered. This way you may increase many fine Flowers and small Plants, but they being out of my Element at this time, I shall not speak of the ordering them, for fear I seem tedious to some.  
Another way to lay a Layer of a Tree, is, take a piece of Wire, and tie it hard round the bark of the place you intent to lay into the ground, twisting the ends of the Wire that it may not untie: prick the place above the Wire through the bark with an Awl in several places, then lay it into the ground as the first.  
A fourth way of Laying of trees, is, Cut a place round, about one Inch or two, where you find it most convenient to lay into the ground, and so proceed as is showed in the first way of Laying.  
A Fifth way to lay some sorts of Trees, is, to twist the place you intent to lay into the ground as you do a with, and lay it as is showed in the first way of Laying; by this way and the first, you may furnish your Woods and Hedges: For they being easy, any ordinary man will perform the same. Thus you may from one Stub, as a Sallow, or the like, between one Fall and another of your Wood, for a Rod square of Ground and more, (if that one Stub produce but strong shoots) fill it well with Wood: For when the Stub hath got two or three years shoot, then lay round it, as before at large is showed, there letting them remain to produce new Stubs.  
But if you would increase by laying some young Trees from an high Standard, whence you cannot bend the boughs down to the ground, than you must prepare either Box, Basket, or Pot, and fill them full of fine sifted Mould, putting a little rotten Willow-dust with this Earth, for that keeps Moisture to help the Layer to draw root; then set the Pot or Box thus filled with Earth, upon some Tressel or Post, as your Ingenuity will direct you, then lay your Bough by the second, third, or fourth way of Laying, leaving not too much head out, because the wind will offend it if you do; and by its own motion be likely to rub off the tender young Root; and thus lay your Hops this way. These things observed, you may raise many choice Trees, as Mulberry, Hors-Chesnut, etc.  
These Rules may instruct you sufficiently concerning the propagation of Trees by Laying; but let me tell you, it is hard to raise a fine strait Tree by a Layer, or Cutting: I have hinted at the Reasons before.  
Note, the smaller your Boughs be, Set them the less out of the ground, and keep them clean from Weeds, that they spoil not your Layers.  
Alsonote, that the harder the Wood is, than the young Wood will take root best, laid in the ground; but if a soft Wood, than older boughs will take Root best: Now you that be Lovers of wood, make use of these sure Directions, and if you repent, then blame me.   

CHAP. VI  
Of those sorts of Trees that will grow of Cuttings, and how to perform the same.  
IF your Ground be moist you may Set with success any sort of Willow, Sallow, or Osier, Alder, Water-Poplers, any sort of Apple that hath a black burry Knot breaking out of the Boughs; that Knot, if set a Foot deep in good Ground, and the top a Foot out, is apt to grow: Some sorts of Wildings, coddlings, Gennitings, some Sweetings, the smiling Willow, Quinces, Tamarisk, Laurel, Fir, Box, etc.  
The time that I have spoke on for Laying your Layers, is also the very best time for Setting of Cuttings, which you may see in the foregoing Chapter, to be in August, for those sorts of Trees that hold their Leaves; and October for those Trees that cast their Leaves in Winter.  
Those sorts of Trees that do grow of Cuttings are common, therefore you may take your choice the better for the bigness of your Cuttings; which I Advise you to let be from half an Inch to one Inch Diameter: If they be less than half an Inch Diameter, than they will be weak, with a great Pith, which Pith will take wet, and be likely to Kill your Cutting: And besides, when your Cuttings be so small, they be not prepared with those pores, (as at present I name them) that is, little black specks on the Bark where the Root breaks out, I suppose, if Set in the Ground; or else Almighty God, for a Sign to show Man that those that have that Mark upon them, will grow as your Elder, Alder, Sallow, Water-Poplers etc. hath; and also if they be Young, they then have not that burry Knot, which is very apt to take Root, as your coddlings, and some sorts of Apples have; in hard Wood, the Younger the better: But if they be greater than one Inch Diameter, than the top of your Cutting will be long in covering over, therefore may somewhat decay your Cutting by the wet lying on the Head so much.  
But you may Set your Willow and Water-Popler of a greater size, because they be Set for Pollard, where Cattle come, therefore they must be great and high, to be out of their harming the sooner; but the other size is most proper for your Hedges and Woods.  
If you set them by a Crow of Iron, or by an Instrument which they have about Cambridge, that boreas a hole in the Earth, somewhat like to an Auger; Let the Foot be free from cracks, cut smooth at bottom, and the top of your Cutting the like, but let your top be slanted off; take care you do not rub up the Bark when you set your Cuttings; therefore make your holes large when you set them, and ram or tread the Earth close to them, keeping them moist the first Summer; and let the slant cut off the Head hang downward, and if your Cutting be choice, put a little soft Wax on the Head and Foot to keep out Air and Wet.  
When you set any Tree or Trees in your Woods or Hedges, be mindful to put in one or two Cuttings with them, it will not be much time lost to do it, but well spent, as I have often proved.   

CHAP VII.  
Of such sorts of Trees as may be Raised by the Roots of another Tree; and how to Raise them.  
AS for such sorts of Trees which may be Raised only from part of a Root of another Tree, there be many; but of those that I have made Experience, I shall in this place give an Account.  
First, Let the Tree be a thriving Tree, but not too Young, nor an Old Tree: For if it be too Young, than the Roots will be too small for this purpose; if too Old, 'tis possible the Roots may be a decaying, and then not fit for this purpose.  
Let the Roots be from a quarter of an Inch, to an Inch and a half Diameter, and from some Young thriving Tree is the best, for in them the Sap is plentiful, and therefore will put forth the greater shoot: then in the latter end of February, or the beginning of March, dig round the Trees you intent to increase from, till you find such Roots as before are mentioned, and taking your Knife, cut them three or four Inches from the great Root, smooth at the place you cut off; then Raise up that end, putting in the Earth to keep it up, that when your Ground is leveled again, the end of this Root so cut off, may be two or three Inches above Ground.  
I do Judge the foresaid time of the Year to be the best, for then the Sun hastening to the Vernal Equinoctial, or rather this Star of the Earth, to Libra, the Sun having heat, and a stronger drawing faculty on the Head of the Tree, draweth by its secret influence on the several Branches on the Head, and the Head from the Body, and both Head and Body from the Roots; and the Roots being furnished with Sap from the Earth, to supply the Body and the Head, is then the fitter to produce with that Sap a new Tree, likelier than when 'tis in its full Sap, viz. in Summer; for then the abundance of Sap will rather choke a Bud, than produce one out of the Root, if the Root be of such sort as will produce Trees from part of the Roots; and then the Wether is so hot, that it suffocates a new Bud that will be so full of Sap, as that will be, if any: and as to the opening of the Roots at that Season, how unnatural 'tis to the roots of the Mother-Tree, you may easily Judge.  
And then, to do this in Winter, though there is a continual Motion and Ascending of the Sap from the Roots (unless Accidentally hindered by Frosts) all the Year long (for Nature is no Sluggard) yet to cut the Roots then, and to expose them thus cut, as aforesaid, to the extremity of the Wether, which then usually is great, the Frost and Wet pierce that new wound so much, that 'tis more likelier to Ruin, than to Increase its Kind; but if it doth Live, the Spring is the time when it will Bud; therefore by Consequence the best. My Reason for cutting the Root two or three Inches off from the great Root is (then) that two or three Inches of the Root will put forth many Roots at the end, especially if smooth cut off, and so the better for the Tree from whence you take the Roots. Thus much for the manner of Raising by part of Roots; the Kind's which may be thus Raised, are these that follow, viz. Elm, Maple, Poplar, Aspen, Abete, Cherry, Crabtree, Plumb, White bush, Serves, etc.   

CHAP. VIII.  
What Soil, or Dung is best for Trees, or their Seeds, etc.  
ANY sort of Dung that is very hot of itself, as Pigeons, Hens-dung, Sea-Coal, or Wood-ashes, Soot, or Malt-dust, such or as heats after 'tis laid in the Ground; as Horse-dung, and Horselitter, or Green Grass, or Weeds: these or the like, unless a small Quantity, and in very cold Ground, are better saved than used for Trees, especially Forest-trees; some Reasons may be given for this. First, their Forefathers have not met with such Kindness, therefore their Children do not, nor cannot digest it so well. Secondly, these sorts of Dungs are good for several sorts of Plants, especially Annuals, for 'tis the Nature of them, where they meet with such warm Entertainment, to come up the sooner, provided the Dung be not so hot as to burn them; for Nature hath accustomed them so much to a Yearly decay, that the Seeds of them will lay hold of the first Opportunity, and put forward for their Journey, either Spring, Summer, Autumn, or Winter; according as they meet with Provision for their Progress, till they have Accomplished that which was done for them, viz. produced Seeds.  
When your Forrest-Tree knoweth its continuance to be long, and that Naturally it hath many Years to produce its like, it will not be much forced by Art or Artificial means; for who can by the best Art or Care that can be used, force the Keys of an Ash to come up in a Year, or to grow but one Inch? For it will lie a Year or more before before it will begin to shoot; when as several sorts of Annuals will at any time of the Year come up in three or four days, if their Entertainment be accordingly. Therefore neither your Forrest-trees not their Seeds require much Dung, but love a ground Trenched deep with some Addition of fresh Earth, such as they delight in; as if your Ground be a strong Clay, then trench it deep, and mix it with fat Sand, Rubbish of Buildings, Sea-coal-ashes, Highway-Earth that hath drift Sand in it, or small Gravel-Lime, or Lime-Rubbish, etc.  
And if your Ground be a Gravel or Sand, then trench it and mix it with Loom-clay, the turf and upper part of each is very good, digging the Ground deep, and mixing it well: But if it be for an Orchard, you may add to any sort of Ground; some rotten dung of Horse or Cow, etc. will do very well, so it be not where your Root is; but set the Roots of any sort of Trees in fresh fine Mould.  
In stiff Ground it is good to trench it with Straw, Thatch, Litter, Woodstack-earth, or small wood, but let not your Roots stand upon these by no means, nor upon no dung or turf, but let them be at least one Inch or two from every Root; and then in a Year or two, when the Roots of your Tree comes to this Dung, or Soil, the Ground will then have made it rotten and fit to lead your Root along in the Veins as it lieth for them, to find their Nourishment the better.  
Note, that those Trees whose Roots run shallow, do most delight in light Ground, as on a Gravel your Beech, Cherry, Ash; if mixed with Loom, the Elm or any; on a Brick Earth the Oak, Elm, Pear, etc. But for these I shall refer you to each particular Chapter of their Kind's.  
Of all sorts of Ground for Trees, or most sorts of Plants, I take your Clays to be the worst: that is, your strong blue, strong white, or strong red; but if any of these have some stones Naturally in them, they make them the better; and the nearer they turn to a mixture of Loom, they be so much the better: So likewise Gravelly or Sandy Ground, the nearer a Loom the better; for a Loom, that is, a light Brick-Earth, is the most Natural Ground for Gardens or Plantations that is.  
Your strong Grounds are worse for Trees than your light, especially for their Seeds; for they be more subject to great Weeds, as Couch-grass, Thistles, Nettles, etc.  
When your Gravelly Ground hath in most places a short Grass, or Mother of Thyme, or Moss, commonly the greatest Plant is Fern, which is very Natural to Seeds of Trees, and to the Roots of Trees: You may often see several Young Trees come up in Fern, which Naturally grows on your light Ground, therefore is most Natural for the increase of wood: But your strong Ground doth most commonly produce the greatest Oak, and your Gravelly or shallow Ground the finest Grain; that is, when Trees are on such Ground as they do Naturally Love to grow on, they then produce the greatest Grain, for then are their Annual Circles the greater; therefore such Trees are your strongest and toughest Timber. But when a Tree grows on a Ground it Naturally doth not like, than the Annual Circles being small, the Grain of such a Tree must by consequence be finer, and the Wood not so tough; so that these stately Trees do not love such great variety as your Annuals: For if they be in a Ground which they do not very well like, if you give them but room by deep and often digging, they will then search the further from home, and provide such Nourishment as will make them thrive, and be stately.  
When as your Annual Plants, and others that be not very long Lived, they will desire better, and more variety of Dung than your Forrest-trees. I have often admired what should be the Reason that some Plants will not come to their perfection, unless they stand on Dung, or that which will give a great heat; which would kill the Seeds of several others, did they but stand there one day: But as for the Reason of the heat that such Plants desire, it is because they were made for hot Countries, and therefore if we would have them to come to Maturity in our cold one, we must give them warm Lodging, especially in the Spring, which is too cold with us for them: but what is it then that Plant does feed on?  
But then to consider well this, why the heat of Grass or green Weeds should bring them forward as well as dung of Horses, provided you can keep it but as temperate (for 'tis subject to be too hot) and as long lasting, for it will not keep its heat long: where is then the salt, Sulphur and Mercury or Spirit in the Dung more than in the Grass to feed these Plants? Also I have Observed, that if you take Rich Mould, half or more of it rotten dung, and cover one end of your Bed with; the other end cover the same thickness with poor hungry Mould, provided you make it fine and fit for the Roots to run in, this last shall do as well, and many times better for any seeds on a hot bed, than the Rich Mould: Where is then the salt Sulphur, or Mercury in the rich Mould, more than in the hungry, as most do hold, that the richer the mould, the more of them, and that all Plants draw their Nourishment from these matters; when I know that the seeds (most we sow on hot beds) could well digest that matter in the rich Mould, if it were there more than in the poor, and come on much forwarder in these Moulds, each, if not on a hot-bed: the rich Mould would bring on Plants much stronger than the poor, provided the seeds be of such Plants that are quick of digestion.  
Pigeon's dung sown thin upon cold Land, and early in the Spring, is very good for Barley: But if sown late, and on dry hot ground, it will then do more harm than good, for it will burn up your seeds or plants: this dung is too hot and quick for the seeds of Trees; for 'tis the nature of Pigeons to eat Salt, and to go to the seaside early in the Mornings, and there to pick up Salt, which the heat of the Sun makes by drying up the salt water, and then leaving the salt upon the sand. Now this Fowl feeding so much upon salt, the dung of it is hotter and salter than any Fowl I know: Now the Reasons why it is good for cold Lands, and withal to sow it Early, are these: Every one knows that 'tis the Nature of salt, that the dryer and hotter 'tis kept, the more it keeps its own Body, and doth not turn to water: And when it stands in a cold and moist place, it than dissolves in a little time to water; and when 'tis turned into this Element of Water, then is it fit for the nourishing and feeding of seeds, especially Annuals: For they be always prepared to set forward in their Journey, provided they meet but with suitable Entertainment. But the seeds of most Forrest-trees, they will stay the time that their and our great God hath allotted them.  
But then why Salt should be a feeder of Plants or Seeds, I take the Reason to be this, namely, Salt-water; (yet I do not mean of Salt in a great quantity, and in meet places that will turn it into water.) I have oft observed, that Salt if fallen upon a Board or other place, it will be long a drying; and if Heat have made it dry, than Dews or Rain make it moist again, than it steams forth, and that it is which nourisheth all Plants: When if on a hot and dry ground, and late in the Spring, if dry weather come, than it doth not nor cannot yield its steam or fume, as Paracelsus in his Philosophy to the Athenians, lib. 3. p. 57 saith: Every Body or tangible substance is nothing but a curdled fume; whence (saith he) we may conclude, that there is a manifold Coagulation, one of Wood, another of Stones, a third of Metals, but the Body is nothing but Fume, smoking out of the Matter or Matrix in which it is. So that which groweth out of the Earth, is a fume, rising out of the Moisture of Mercury, which is various, and sendeth forth several fumes for Herbs, Trees, etc.  
I do remember when I was a Boy, about fourteen years of Age, the Sea broke a bank into a Marsh of my Fathers, in Lincolnshire, and did overflow that Marsh and some others with salt Sea-water; the next Summer proving dry, all our Grass was clearly burnt up, so that I was very much concerned for some particular Reasons, thinking that all our Grass had been quite killed, and indeed so it appeared: The next Summer proved wet, so that towards the latter end we had some Grass again, and the third Summer we had Grass enough, but the fourth and many after in abundance. So that it appears, the ground was stupefied with too much Kindness at first, but after the Rain had allayed the too much strength of the Salt water, than the Grass could well digest the gentle Fume: I would have those that lay Salt on their Gravel-walks to kill their weeds, observe if in a few years more they do not produce more weeds than some other that had not Salt laid on them at all.  
Sea-sand is a very good Compost for Ground, especially for stiff Ground, for there it doth the too main parts to plants, or any seed or tree; that is, it makes way for the tree or seed to root in stiff ground, and makes a Fume to feed it: but this is too nimble for the seeds of trees, (unless a very little) observe the Reasons before.  
Mault-dust is a most excellent Compost in a small quantity, for many sorts of Annual seeds, as I have oft tried with good success; but the Reasons are still the same: for this being a small part of the roots of the Barley, and being very dry, drinks in the Element of water, which is the principal and first matter of all things, (as a learned Author hath it, in the Genealogy of Minerals, p. 44) So wonderfully hath God created Water, the first Matter of Nature, which though it be so tender and feeble a substance, yet from thence is created the most solid and durable Fruit: that is, from the fume of an Oily, Earthy water, is the Life of all Plants. The parts of the dust being thus filled, upon the Sun's attracting that and the Plant, the Root embraces this Fume: This little root, it having not life to grow, turns to Earth, and its Grave is a room to lead the root of another Plant in: it will give good entertainment to its own Kind.  
Thus you see, the Destruction of one is the increase of another: A little of this is good for some seed of Forrest-trees; but sow it not too thick, for any thing, lest it mould, or turn Musty.  
Note, that the place which is best for the root to be in, when the Tree or Plant is growing, is, the place that bringeth it soon to Destruction when dead, and contrary: for a Tree cannot live in water, or always dry, and those preserve the Timber longest when the Tree is dead. This may be further improved by ingenuity.  
Note also, that the place which is best to keep the Fruit of a Tree in, is the very worst for a Tree or Plant to grow in, and contrary.  
Old Rags of Woollen Cloth, as is found by Experience by the industrious Farmer, cut into small pieces, are a good Compost for their Ground: they draw the Dew and Rain to them, and keep it till Sol's presence makes it fit for the Roots of the Plant: I judge them to be best for a pure dry soil, because they hold their Moisture long, and I suppose 'tis a soil that is lasting; for Wool will not rot with wet suddenly. A little of this for the Trees or Seed on a dry Ground, will do good to them, as appears by the aforesaid Reasons: For Annuals better.  
Conny-clippings are of the same nature (but I do suppose they will not last so long) and are better for a stiff ground.  
Sawdust, if well rotten, and of soft woods, is very grateful to the tender Roots or Seeds of any sort; 'tis good for dry ground, for it holds water, and makes way for the Roots of Trees very well, and is as good as most Preparers are.  
Rotten-dust out of hollow Trees, especially those of soft wood, is a rich Leader of tender young Roots: the Reason is showed before.  
Soot is good to kill Moss, for its heat kills the Roots, for they lie on the top of the Earth: and good also to keep worms from doing harm to your Seeds.  
Sea-coal Ashes are very good in cold stiff ground, either for Trees, or any other Plant, to make that ground work well, and to keep it hollow for the Roots to run in, etc.  
Rubbish of Buildings, that is, broken Bricks, and Stones and Lime is very good for the Roots of Trees in a stiff cold Ground, the Reason is told you.  
Chalk broken small into pieces, is a very good Compost for stiff cold grounds. There is much difference in Chalk, but that which is soft, fat Chalk, is good for such Ground as aforesaid, and for ground that is not very stiff. Let your Reason instruct you further.  
Lime is a very rare Compost for cold Grounds, and stiff Clayes, for its heat causeth a fume, and its tenderness makes way for the Roots, to fetch home their Nourishment, and its heat is great at first, therefore lay not on too much on no ground; and let that be slacked. If your dry ground be it your Tree delight to grow in, and you are forced to set them on wet, then add some of this Lime among your Earth.  
Clay, especially that sort which is a light Brick-Earth, is very good for such Land that is a light shovey Gravel, or hath too much sand in it: Such grounds as these, they do not retain the spirit of Plants: for when Nature hath by the two Lovers, Star-Fire and Water, generated their Babe, such ground as this doth drink down too fast, and again doth dry too hastily; so that the water cannot have time to leave nor to prepare its slime; which is the Mercury that makes that fume which feeds all Plants and their seeds: But this Clay must not be digged too deep, for than it wanteth of that which feedeth Plants, etc.  
I have taken the green Slime that is common in standing waters, (I do not mean the Frogs Spawn, which is cast many times into this) and have dried it and beat it into fine dust, and then have mixed it with good fresh Earth, and have found very good success in raising several sorts of Flower-seeds and others: Though I have Notes of them, yet it is out of my Road to speak of them now, being I am Writing of the stately Forrest-trees. However, I may (its possible) write somewhat of them, if the Lord permits, and according as I find these few Lines Accepted of by some of the Royal Oaks of this our Age.  
For I do suppose that there is not one thing in Gardening yet well known: For (as a Learned Author hath it,) he that knows a thing well, must know what it was, is, and shall be; Therefore all humane Knowledge is but a shadow of superficial Learning reflecting upon man's Imagination, but not the least thing comprehended substantially.  
But to the business in hand, take Clay or Loom, and lay it on your Ground, not too thick, the beginning of Winter, and there let it be till the Frost hath made it fall into Mould, then in some dry open time harrow it all over: and if it be Ground you plough, then plow it in a dry time, but if it be Ground you trench for Forrest or Fruit-trees, observe to order it so: for by thus doing the Clay will mix with the Sand or Gravel much the better: The better that any man cheweth his Meat, it is certainly the easier to digest; and the drier you put it into your ground (provided it hath but time to water itself well before your trees be set) 'tis the better; for than it draws the Mercury, and stores it up till the Roots have occasion for it: for 'tis quickly exhaled out of sand: but the Clay holds his store till a time of Necessity, and then contributes to the Roots, that is, in dry weather: and the smaller you make it to mix with your ground, the likelier the small Roots (as well as the great) are to meet with it.  
Note further, that the smaller your Plants be, the finer must your Earth be made, by skreening, fifting, beating, turning, etc.  
I know by good success this to be true: for the Right Honourable my Lord (and the more to be honoured because a great Planter, and as great a Lover thereof) gave me order to make three Walks of Line-trees, from the New Garden to the New Bowling-green, and withal to make them descend towards the House, as near as we could; which to do, I was forced to cut through one Hill thirty Rod, most of the Hill two foot-deep, into a sharp Gravel, and the greatest part of all the length of the Walks was the same; they being Trees that I raised of Seeds, most of them, and the rest of Layers, at Hadham-Hail, they being with my Lord ever since their Minority, and he many times their Barber, engaged him to have the more particular Kindness for them, therefore he ordered me to do what I thought good in preparing the ground for them: which I did as followeth.  
First I leveled the Hill, and when I had brought the Ground near to the Level concluded on, I staked out my ground where every Tree should stand, and then ordered my holes to be made for my Trees, each hole three foot-deep, and four foot-wide, being the ground was so bad: This I did near a Year before I set my Trees, and having the convenience of Brick-Earth near, I got near a Load to every hole, and mixed this with the Earth digged out of the Holes, turning it over twice, and in dry weather throwing out the greatest Stones, but the Turf I did throw into each Hole (the grass-side downward) as soon as they were made; but the Hill of Gravel I trenched that with Loom, Cowdung, and the Litter under the Cow-racks, two Spade deep, and five foot on each side every row of Trees.  
Thus having prepared my ground, and the season of the year come, about the beginning of November, 1672. I had the Trees taken up with good help, as carefully as I could, and carried to Cashiobury, the place of their now Abode; and then having good store of help, and good Mould prepared, of the smallest and finest, I set the Trees with the upper part of the Roots of each Tree level with the top of the Ground, making a round hill half a foot high about every tree, and the Compass of the Hole.  
Having pruned the heads of each Tree, and cut off the bruised Roots, and the Ends of such roots as were broken, I sorted the Trees, and observed this Method in placing them, namely; I set the highest next the Bowling-green, and so shorter and shorter till the lowest were next to the Garden; which I did for these Reasons: Next the Green was the worst Ground, and the Trees more in danger of being spoilt, by reason of a Market-path that goeth cross that end of the Walks to Watford.  
Thus having set my Trees straight in their Rows, and trod the Earth close to their Roots, and made my Hills, I then laid round every Tree, upon those Hills, wet Litter taken off from the Dunghill, a good Barrow-full to every Tree, and covered that with a little Mould, leaving them to take their rest for a time; but early in the Spring I found them to begin their Progress, and that Summer they had such Heads shot forth, that I was forced to cut off some of their Heads (that is, the side-boughs) to keep the Wind from breaking them: There is in these four rows of Trees 296. and of these I lost not one Tree the first Year, but they did grow and shoot so well, that there were several Noble Men that saw them, did think, as they said, that they were not removed the Year before; but the year after we had three spoilt by some base Men or Boys.  
Of the very same parcel of Trees my Lord gave Sir William Temple thirty of the best of them, which he himself saw chosen out; they were Set at Sir William's House at Sheen, a much better Natured Ground than ours, yet they lost all but six of them the first Year: I saw a walk of Line-trees (but I think they were the Bastard-kind, which we have growing in many of our Woods in England) set at Debden-hall, the Right Worshipful Sir Richard Brown's House; the Natural ground was not bad for them, but how they were Ordered I do not know, for they had the first year not above one in ten that did grow any thing considerably.  
I saw the like (or worse) spoil of the same Trees at my Lord Chief Baron Turnor's near Startford, where the ground might easily have been made very good for them. I only write this, to persuade Noble Men, and others that are Lovers of Planting, to remember the old saying, viz. A thing once well done, is twice done: And those that are resolved to Plant, that they make their Ground fit for those Trees before they set them, and not bury them in a hole like a dead dog, as too too many do. Let me then beg that they may have good and fresh Lodgings suitable to their Quality, and good attendance also, to preserve them from their Enemies, till they be able to encounter with them; they that will not do this▪ let them never resolve to Plant Trees; for why should they spoil the least of those stately Monuments, and in so doing throw away their moneys? For let such note that Nature bestows not her gifts but where she finds suitable Convenience, therefore order your Ground well, and then you may see a good success, as my Lord hath had in several of his Plantations, though as bad ground as most is to Plant on. One Night (me thoughts) walking up one of my Lords Line-walks, I heard the grateful Trees thus Paying the Tribute of their thanks to his Lordship: 
Like Pyramids our Stately Tops we'll Raise,  
To Sing our Noble Benefactor 's Praise;  
Freshly we will to After-ages show  
What Noble Essex did on us bestow;  
For we our very Being owe to him,  
Or else we had long since entombed been  
In Crop of Bird, or in Beasts Belly found,  
Or met our Death neglected on the ground:  
By him we cherished were with Dung and Spade,  
For which we'll Recompense him with our Shade;  
And since his kindness saw us pruned so well,  
We will Requite him with our Fragrant smell;  
In Winter (as in Gratitude is meet)  
we'll strew our humble Leaves beneath his Feet.  
Nay, in each Tree, Root, Trunk, Branch, all will be  
Proud to Serve him and his Posterity.   
Thus having showed you by Example the good Effects of a light Brick-Earth upon Gravel, I could also tell the same of a Fat Sand, drift-sand, small Gravel upon your Clay or stiff Ground; but I hope that I have informed your Judgement so much, that you will Reasonably conclude with me, that the preparing of Ground for Trees is, only to mix Ground so together, that there may be convenient room for the Roots to search for their Nourishment; and to humour the Tree so, that there may be a good part of the Natural Ground which each Tree delights to grow in. I know that if your Ground be a stiff Clay, then to trench and mix it with fat Sand, drift-sand, Lime, Rubbish, or Chalk and Lime, are great helps to such Ground, either for Trees, or Corn, or Grass; and more lasting than Dung, and for Forrest-Trees full as good as Dung: For it doth not only give leave, and make way for the roots to run in the Earth, but takes away that over-moistness in the cold stiff Ground, which hinders Conception, by letting the water down into the Earth, and by keeping it from Cracking, and so Nourisheth the Spirit of the Earth, and also keeps it from spending it too hastily.  
Horse-dung is the best to make your hot beds with, for such Plants as are commonly raised of them be Annual Plants, but it is too hasty for the Seeds of Trees, unless it be rotten, and well mixed with Natural Mould: It is best for your stiff cold Lands, and if you lay it upon Ploughed Ground (which 'tis best for) then Blow it in as soon as you can, for if it lies there to dry, there will a great part of the Oily substance, which makes the fume for nourishment of Plants, be exhaled out by the Sun: Let no sort of dung lie long on the top of your Ground unplowedin, but plough or dig it in as soon as you can; for by lying so, it doth not only lose a great part of its goodness by the Sun (especially if it lies thin) but where your Dunghill lies every shower will wash the strength of the dung into the Ground, so that if you take the dung off from that place as clean as you can, yet you shall have that place bear Ranker Corn than where you thought the dung had lain much thicker, if it lies long in a place. The Observation of this taught me many good Uses; as first, to lay dung about the Roots of Trees is much better than stones, as my Lord Bacon Advises in his Natural History; for this keeps moist the Ground better than they, and Rain washes the strength to the Roots, as is aforesaid: and if you dig in this when the strength is gone, and your Trees strong, it than prepares way for the Roots, and there is a great benefit to your Trees. Or if it is not digged-in, but lies on the top, and there turns to Earth, it than feeds the Roots on the top, and leads them upward.  
And seeing where Dung lies, the Ground is so much improved by the washing-in of the strength of the Dung, it may well inform you that Dung steeped in Water is very good, especially if you use Dung, in Quantity according to the Nature of your Plants, and strength of your Ground; the weaker your Ground, make your Water the stronger. There is in some places in Farmers Yards, a Water that washeth from their Dunghills, a Load of which is not inferior to a Load of Dung, yet by them totally Neglected; but of Waters I shall speak more in the next Chapter.  
Thus having hinted of these two Useful and Common Dungs, Cow and Horse, in the Example of these Line-trees; only Observe this, and then I shall proceed: Horse-dung is best for Plants that are quick of Digestion and Growth, and for Trees or Plants that shoot much in a year; for it yields a great Fume, and such Plants can well dispose of it.  
Cowdung is a good Soil for most Trees or Plants of hot Ground, and better for durable Plants than it is for Annuals: It is Excellent for many sorts of rare Flowers, if first it be thorow-rotten, and then dried and beaten to dust, and some fresh fine Earth then mixed well with it.  
Deers-dung is much of the Nature of Cows, or Bullocks; but 'tis more proper for tender and smaller Plants.  
Sheeps-dung is also of the same Nature, but more agreeable to tender and small Seeds and Plants: By this our Yeomen and Farmers find good profit, by Folding their Sheep every Night on their own Lands; for there they find a far certain benefit on their Ground by the Dung and Urine which the Sheep make in one Night; though it is not long lasting, yet 'tis a sure help for the first Crop, and a good Addition to the second.  
This may teach you that a thin sprinkling of dung is more sure most years for your Corn-Land than greater Quantities; and also that to break your dung small is best; for the smaller the better, especially if you have laid it on your Ground not long before you sow, especially for your Summer-crops, from this I do Advise my Ingenuous Countrymen of these few Rules which are spoken before:  
To well Observe the Nature of your Land, and by so doing to enrich it with such Soil and Dung as is most Natural to the Ground, and to the Seeds you intent to sow on it; and to lay it on your Ground at the most convenient times.  
First, as to the Ground, I have hinted at many useful Composts, and also that several of them are far more proper for some Grounds than they are for others, though there be many more sorts that may be and are made use of to very good Effect, yet I shall not trouble myself nor you with the naming any more, knowing that he that Understands to Number to 20 in Arithmetic, may soon count to a 100  
Now, as to the Seed you intent to sow, whether it be of Trees, Plants, or any sort of Grain, the smaller your Seed is, make the ground the finer; the quicker your Seeds be of growth, and the more they run into stalks or leaves, your dung may then be the newer and stronger, and the more in Quantity, according to the Digestion of your Plants. But if for Trees or Plants of long lasting, then let the dung be the more rotten; and the more they be apt to shoot great shoots, the more you may allow them; but let them be sure of some such Ground as they Naturally delight to grow in, and also to allow them room that is large enough; for High and Lofty Spirits do not love to be Confined to little and small Cottages.  
And as for laying it on your Ground, if the time be the Spring, that is most proper to sow your Seed, then lay such dung as is hot and dry early on your Ground; and rather err in too little than too much, such dungs as be your Pigeons, Hens, Sea-coal-ashes, etc. But if they be hot and moist, such as Horse-dung, Horselitter, or Green grass, Hay, etc. these be most proper for Annuals, and it is not good to be too sparing toward these tender Plants; rather err in keeping your dung too dry than too wet, for in so doing you shall keep its heat the longer, and have the more Command to keep it so: But if you have occasion to lay dung on Ground to help such Trees or Plants as are not Annual, but more slow in their progress, then mix such dung thin, and not too near the Roots; but if it be the Autumn Season that you have occasion to lay it on your Land, then lay it something thicker; for the Winter will qualify the strength and heat of it.  
To conclude, if you are to lay dung on Land that you are to sow with Seed that doth not run much into stalks, and is but slow in growing, then do as our Farmers do, let it be rotten and mixed well with Mould before you lay it on your Land, and then your Grain or Seed will the better agree with it, or else you may find on your Land strong great Weeds, such as the Ground is most inclined to; for strong Land will produce the stronger Weeds, and the other contrary.  
Therefore if your Dung be too rank and new for the Seed you intent to Sow your Ground with, then mix it with some other Compost as is most proper for your Land, and most convenient to be had: and if your Land be stiff, then mix it with Chalk, Light Sandy Ground, or somewhat of the like Nature; laying a good quantity of Earth first, than your Dung, and then Earth to cover your Dung all over; by so doing you will save that Oily water which will soak from the Dung by showers of Rain into the Earth under the dung: and by covering your dung with Earth it will keep the Sun from drying out that moisture; and whatever Fumes arise, the Earth on the top will receive: be sure you let it not grow with Weeds on the top, but when you find them to appear, take them off, and suffer none to grow on your Compost; or turn it over, and mix it with your Earth below, however let it be mixed together before you lay it on your Land: Thus do with New Horse-dung and Litter, but if it be any other dung, lay it on your Land as soon as Opportunity serveth; for the longer you let it lie, the more it loseth of its strength, therefore lay it on rather too thin, and in dry weather, and early.  
To assist Nature do thou not neglect;  
Use her not Roughly, lest there be defect.  
Thus much may serve for Trees, but if it be for Flowers, or other fine and tender Plants, you then must be more Curious, and mix your Earth better; but they be out of my Road at this time. The main business is to prepare your Ground so, that there may be room for the roots to run in, to fetch their Nourishment. As for Trees and Plants that root deep, trench your Ground accordingly, etc. Now, for to please the Tree or Plant with such Earth as it delights to be in, add such a quantity of dung as may be suitable to the growth of your Tree or Plant, thereby to make a fume to feed it; for let this fume be made of what it will, for-my part, I shall not contend whether it be Salt, Sulphur, or Mercury; or as some affirm, that 'tis Salt, Sulphur, Mercury, and Spirit: All, or any one of these that feeds the Plants of this Terrestrial Globe; or if it be Fire, Earth, Water, or Air, as was formerly the Opinion of the Learned; for Sulphur or Brimstone may answer to Fire, Salt to the Earth, Mercury to Water, Spirit to Air.  
For 'tis certain, that Plants have Salt, Sulphur, Mercury, and Spirit in them; some more than others, according to their Heat or Coldness, but that they feed on these is not certain to me: But it is as I conceive the Fume, Steam, or more properly the Spirit of the Earth that they feed on; for the Earth is full of Spirit, which is the cause of the vast many productions of Plants, and Infects which are produced every year, and from no seed or sperm, but according to the fit Matrix of the Earth; and the Star-fire, and Virgin Mercury: their Dame Nature is then busy to make some Plant or Insect according as she hath provided a Breast to suckle and feed them.  
The Earth is then but only a Lodging-place, and simple Water is only its Garment; for simple crude Water feeds nothing, but is rather Destructive, as is seen by Water that runs forth on a Gravel, and the stream quick, there is feldome good Meadows by such Rivers, unless there be some Town that washeth itself into the River, or good Rich Land, or Lanes, or the like. Your Spring-water, unless it have some assistance, is the like; but of Water, see more in the next Chapter.  
And now I shall give you an Example of Earth, by which you may well perceive that Plants do not feed on simple Earth, nor crude Water. My Lord was the Author that told me this, and as soon as the Season of the year did permit me, I then did try the Experiment, which was thus performed. I took out of a Hill of good Rich fresh Earth (which I had prepared for other things) some of the driest, somewhat above a good large Flowerpot full; this I carried into a little Room, which I had at Hadham-Hall, it joined upon the Bakehouse; there I spread this Earth thin upon the shelves, now and then turning it till it was as dry as dust, and as I thought, as dry as it well could be, provided it were not burned: having thus prepared my Earth, I filled a Flowerpot with it, which pot and Earth thus filled, weighed as exactly as I could weigh it just eighteen pounds and a half.  
March approaching, in the year 1666, I put this pot into a hot bed, to secure the seeds, and withal to help forward my design to preserve them: the seeds were Purslain which I sowed in it, the quantity was very small: I kept this pot in hot Beds till the beginning of May, and then I set it under a South Wall, where it stood till that Month was out, and then I set it in the shade from the Meridian Sun: there it stood till the latter end of August, and then finding my Plants full of seed and at a stand, I then cut up the Purslain close to the ground, at Noontime, when it was very dry, and weighed the Purslain as exactly as I could, and it weighed just six pound two ounces. Then I took the pot of Earth and set it in a South Window in a Banqueting House to dry, turning the Earth to the Sun, to dry out some of the moisture, for the Earth was wet, for I had kept this pot with watering all the Summer, as occasion served: then I took this pot of Earth, and carried it into the little Room to dry the Earth as I did before, and putting some of the Earth into a Box, and the rest in the pot, I made it as dry as it well could be, or at least as dry as it was when I sowed my seeds in it: and then putting all my Earth into the pot again, I weighed it as exactly as I had done before, and then the pot and the Earth weighted just eighteen pound and seven ounces; there was, I confess, the roots of the Purslain, but when they were dried, I do believe they did not weigh one ounce; and this one ounce that it lost of weight might be Earth dashed over with Rains.  
Now, these Plants weighing so much, and the Earth wasted or decreased in its weight so little, doth plainly show that Plants do not feed only on Earth; for I do believe this, that the earth that was wasted, was dashed out of the pot by hasty watering, and by sudden showers of Rain, or perchance some might go out of the holes of the pot with the Water.  
Now, though Plants do not feed on earth, yet Earth is the Nurse and receptacle of most things, and the Earth is spongy and porous, fit to receive the several Influences of the Heavens, of Heat, Rains, and Dews; and stores them up for the Conservation of her products: and when the seed or plant desire it, is put into Motion by the Celestial heat the earth freely gives out of her store, according as the Plant can dispose of it.  
And if there be no Plants to feed on this Spirit of the Earth, than many times Nature makes some which do; for the earth will produce several Plants of its self, without seed or root, but they be Plants of no long lasting, and when they die, they then turn to Air and Spirit, as all things do; for there is nothing that is at a certain stay, for all things have their time of increasing, and their time of decaying, till they be turned to that of which they were made.  
No man can see Trees grow, yet all men know that they do: It is plain to see when a Trees is decaying, yet to know how long it will be before it is of its own decaying turned to Earth or Dust, is hard to know: Though it is Reported, that an Oak is a hundred years a growing, a hundred years stands at a stay, and a hundred years decaying, yet this is very erroneous; for on shallow Grounds an Oak will not grow so long, and on deep ground much longer, and neither it nor any thing else stands at a stay, but when it doth begin to decay, it keeps on, according as it meets with Accidents, till it comes to dust.  
Thus have I guessed, but whether right or no,  
The Critics lash I'm sure to undergo.  
I to th'ingenious Practiser direct  
These lines, which hope with him to gain Respect;  
For Learned men ofttimes mistaken are,  
When Fools as oft guess right, though unaware.   

CHAP. IX.  
Of Water for Trees and Seeds, and watering them.  
I Have oft observed your Cisterns and other places, that are only filled with Rain-water, that that water will in a Summer's time produce several sorts of Infects, and some sort of Water-plants; and also that it will leave a green slime not much unlike to Plants, which substance (or slime as I term it) would certainly be spent into Plants, were there but some quantity of Aquatic Plants put into this water; such as Mints of any sort, yellow Water-flagge, Flower-de-luce, Crabs-claws, or water Sen-green, Brook-lime, Ducks-meat, etc.  
I once made an Experiment to try this, which I have here inserted, and thus it was: I took two water-pots, and filled them full of water, out of a Fountain which had been filled by Snow and Rain the Winter before, and which was made clean the Michaelmas before: I set these two pots, thus filled, in the open Air, but in the shade, and put into one of them a good handful of Mints, the Runners, which I put in the first of March, 1664. where I let them continue till the first of April next, and then put in a fresh handful, and let that continue for one Month more, and so I did both May and June: I poured out this Water about the beginning of September, to observe which of those Pots had the most of this slime: whereupon I found, that pot that had no Mints put into it, had twice as much, and being forced too to fill up that pot that had the Mints with the same water often, and that pot that had no Herbs in it, the slime of it was green; the other pot's settlement that was in it, was black, and of an Earthy colour: I did intend to have prosecuted this further, as to have filled two pots of fresh Earth, and not too rich, and to have sown in them several Seeds, and to have kept them from all water but this, and then to have noted well the success, with more like Fancies which I thought on; but I was prohibited by one of the Drones of this Age, and did not know whether I should stay or not.  
A Stone lying in water gets a kind of slime about it; and if you put into water seeds that be quick of growth, (as most of your Annuals are) keep it but temperately hot, and they will in a little time spear out, and then if you put them into fine Mould, temperately moist and warm, you may (if you pull up one of them and observe) see the Roots feeding upon a white substance, which I have often observed; for in water is the seed of all things. Likewise put seed into Earth, and if it be very dry, then though it be kept never so temperately hot, it will rather keep the seeds from growing than hasten them.  
But water dissolves, than Life followeth the dissolution; for water opens the parts of the Seed, and makes them swell, than they draw the Spirit of the water to them, (for the World is full of Spirit) so the Seeds they have been so long in water till the body of them cracks, which is as soon as it hath filled itself with enough to make a Root, than that seed if once dried, and a stop put to its proceedings, the Art of Man cannot make it grow again. I have heard some affirm, that Malt will grow, but 'tis false, unless they mean some Barley-corns which never speared.  
Therefore if you have once watered Seed, keep them with watering if the Earth require; and if your Earth be poor, and your seeds great growers, than water with rich dunged water, and often, but let it not touch the Leaves; and if you think your ground be too Rich for the Nature of your seed, than water your seed with water not very Rich; but if your seeds be slow growers, for such keep your ground only moist, and no more; for, though it be Earth that stores up the Spirit that seeds Plants, yet it is water that sets it on motion, and water is full of Spirit also, but without Heat both these lie still: for Heat draws out first the crude water, and sends it into the Air: Therefore, unless it be for Aquatic Plants, or Plants that grow much, and the weather be warm and drying, do not water too much, keep your Earth just moist; for when ground is full of water, the Celestial Fire heats first the superficies of the Earth, and puts that into a fume, but the Roots which are deeper in the ground being covered with water, there is no fume riseth there till most of the water be drawn up by the Sun, or settled into the Earth: Therefore if your Ground be subject to be wet, keep it loose and open, by deep trenching, and Earth to drain away water; for it is oft seen, that good Land that lies low in a wet Spring hath no great burden, because it is over pressed with wet; and dunged Land in a wet year bears the worst Corn, especially if it be low stiff Land; for Dung then holdeth the Moisture, and the ground being wet withal, commonly doth produce great weeds, which can digest the spirit of the Earth and Water better than Corn, because they grow much quicker, and so they spoil the Corn: For the greatest good that Dung doth to Land, is, to hold the water in the ground, and to keep the ground hollow, for the Roots to fetch their Nourishment. For 'tis the nature of Dung to draw water to it, to fill itself like a Sponge; and when dry weather comes, than it spends itself in fume, and so it wastes itself, and feeds Plants by its decay. Thus you may see and admire the Order of the great God of Nature, that the Destruction of one should be the Preservation of another.  
This you may observe in rotten Wood, Malt-dust, Wool, woollen Rags, Horn-shaving, etc. how full they will be with every little Dew, and keep that longer than a Clod of Earth twice as big, thus will they do till they be turned to a very little Earth: By this you may inform yourself what sort of Dung will last longest.  
Some sorts of Dung there be, that if they be not over-pressed with Water, will waste themselves by their own heat; Witness your Hot-beds, etc. yet notwithstanding, this heat is very Natural to Annual Plants.  
Dung steeped in Water, or water strained thorough Dung, doth take a great part of the substance and strength of the Dung with it, and that water when dried up in the ground, and evaporated, when Rain or Dew falls on that place, it there leaveth such an Oily or slimy substance as catcheth the Water or Dew, and hindereth it from running deep into the Earth, and then the Over-plus which the Plants receive not, is rarified into Air, till it hath spent itself as it were to nothing.  
After dry weather in Summer, if there comes a good shower, and a warm day after, you may see this Fume hang in the Air, sometimes low, close to the ground, as if it were loath to part with the Earth, and toward the latter end of Summer, if great Rain and warm weather happen, than this Fume being great, and the Night's something cold, it will spend itself in Mushrooms, Puffs, etc. as old Trees and rotten Wood will do, where there is a great decay, and nothing to feed on.  
Therefore, if you fear dry weather, do not defer too long before you water your Trees and Seeds, but water while your ground is yet moist: for believe me, I would not have you stay too long before you water, if you be minded to water at all: And also when you do water, do it well; Consider the depth of your Roots, and those that root deepest, water most; and also when you begin to water, continue it as long as you find occasion: water Trees well, and Seeds and small Plants often: use not Well-water, especially for tender Plants, for it is so strained thorough the Earth that it hath little spirit to make Nourishment in it for Plants. Rivers that run quick and long on sharp gravel are little better; therefore if you must use such, let them stand some time in the Sun, in Tubs, etc. mixed with Dung.  
Let the Quantity and Quality of your Dung be according to the Nature of your Plants; as, if your Plants be great growers, and require heat, than put Horse-dung▪ etc. in the water.  
If your Plants be fine and tender, than put Sheep's Dung, or Cows-dung, etc. into the water, remembering, that if you think your ground be bad, you must add the more Dung.  
If your Water be bad (as is aforesaid) and that you put Dung into it to help it, let it then stand in the Sun and open Air uncovered.  
Take care you water no Plants with standing stinking Ditch water, nor no water that stinketh: for sweet water not too clear, and fresh Mould, not musty or tainted by stinking weeds, etc. is as proper for tender Plants, as sweet and good Food, and warm and clean Lodging is to a tender fine-bred man.  
Rain-water I take to be very good, if not too long kept; yet if your Vessel be large, the oftener you stir it, the longer it will keep sweet.  
Large and Navigable Rivers, (such as our Thames) that receive much Soil by the washing of Streets, and the many Sinks that run into it, and which by its own motion doth cleanse itself from that which is noxious both to Man and Plants; is a most excellent Water for all sorts of Plants.  
The larger that Ponds be, the better their water is for Plants; and if they have the shoot of some Stable-yard into them, it adds much to their goodness; the opener they be to the Sun, the better; and the more of motion they have, as by Horses washing in them, or Geese or Ducks swimming in them, 'tis so much the better: for the swimming of Ducks in Summer in your small Ponds will keep the Water from smelling.  
Now having showed you several ways of raising Forrest-trees, with some other hints of their Seed, etc. and of Compost for them, and of Water, and Watering them, I now shall show you the manner how to raise them of Seed, which is to be preferred before all others, though some of the aforesaid ways for some Trees are much easier and quicker.  
Good Air for Plants (as well as Men) is much assisting to their Health and Life, for without this nothing can live; and that which is most healthful for tender Men, is also the best for tender Plants. Aire takes up the earthy Exhalations of all sorts, and there mingles them together, and being touched with Celestial Fire, it reduceth them into general Principles, for great uses. I shall say no more of Air, for it is an Hermaphrodite, and is enclosed in Water, therefore near akin to it.   

CHAP. X.  
Of the Oaks Raising and Improving.  
I Shall not trouble you with the several kinds there be; though the Learned J. Evelyn, Esq; Reduceth them to four, in his Discourse of Forest-Trees, but if they were distinguished by several Names, as we do our Pears, you might find as many varieties, only according to the shape and taste of the Acorn: for as we know by Experience that several of our Pear-Trees grow Pyramid-like, as the Oakman-berry, and Bordon-Musk-Pears, etc. And some likewise grow much spreading, as the Winter-Bonchristian, the back Pear of Worcester, etc. Even so do some of your Oaks; therefore if you desire aspiring Trees, take care to gather your Acorns off from such Trees, or rather gather them from under some such Trees, when fallen, and in a dry time if you can.  
When you have so done, lay your Acorns thin in some open Room to dry, and when they be dry, keep them in some dry place till the latter end of January, and having prepared some good fresh Loomy Ground, by digging and keeping it clean beforehand, sow them, and let them be covered about an Inch and a half, or two Inches deep; by sowing them at this time, you shall save a great many, which otherwise would have been spoilt by Mice or other Vermin; but if it happen to be a wet time when they fall, then will they begin to spear out in a short time after: And then so soon as you see them shoot forth a little bud at the small ends, commit them to their Spouse as soon as may be; for when they be come to the time that the Almighty hath allotted them, and be said and made lusty by the dews and showers of the Heavens, than the Star-fire impregnats the Moisture in the seed, and then the seed throws off, or endeavours to do it, and then takes his Lodging in the Earth, where he prepares a room for his Offspring; that is, as soon as the seed hath imbibed himself in the Water, and received heat, (for without both these no seeds can produce its kinds) the Body of the Acorn cracks, and the spear shoots into the Earth, and as soon as it hath got Entertainment there, and the Season of the year agreeable, the Body of the seed either turns into leaves, or spends itself into leaves, and that little small part of the seed, the spear, that shoots forth Root, and then shot and leaves; so that if the Acorn hath had a convenient quantity of heat and moisture (but if too much of either of these, that is deadly to all seeds) than the seed spears forth, and if it be not committed to the Ground before it be dried, and the spear withered, then for certain that Seed, Acorn, Nut, or Stone will never grow. For Nature, if once set on Motion, will rather cease to be, than alter its course; for Nature hates violence, neither can the seed receive this precious sperm without these two, Father and Mother; and these two must have a suitable Agreement between them: for though one Vessel be sufficient to perfect the Infant in the Womb, yet Nature hath not been wanting to provide several Breasts to Nourish it. Therefore if your Acorns have taken wet, and the heat hath made them spear, you must sow them as soon as you can, and venture them a whole Winter in the Ground; remembering to keep some Traps set to catch the Mice.  
In the Spring following they will come up, keep them clean from Weeds, and let them stand two or three years on their first bed, then having prepared a piece of good fresh Ground, by adding some rotten dung to it, if poor; or good fresh Rich Ground (which is better than dung) cut the tap-root, and the side-boughs, and set them as you do other Trees in your Nurseries, keep your Ground with digging, and the Trees with pruning up every year; thus Order them till you find them fit to Remove, and you will then find no such hazard in the Removing them, as if they were never Transplanted before; for there is a great deal of Reason to be given that the oftener you Remove a Tree, the likelier 'tis to grow when it is Removed again, provided it be not too great. Besides, Experience doth plainly show the same, for I have often found that a Walnut-Tree set of a Nut, and never-removed in its Minority, but still keeping his place of Situation, till it is six or seven Foot high, that in Removing such a Tree, you shall find near as much hazard in the growing of that Tree, as in Removing an Oak of the same stature, provided the Oak hath had his Abode in open Air, and not been tenderly Nursed up in a Wood; for such Trees, let them be of what kind you will, are nice to be removed out of their warm Habitation: But at this I have hinted before. Now, to show you some Reason why any Tree being Removed before, is the likelier to grow when removed again, Observe these few Rules:  
First, 'Tis the Nature of all Trees to put forth one Root first, and then some side-roots, according to the Kind and Nature of the Ground; and this most stately Tree doth commonly run to the bottom of the Soil that is fit for his Nourishment, before it puts forth many side-roots, especially in a loose, hollow Ground, and then at the end of the tap-root it puts forth feeding Roots, and when this Tree comes to be pretty big, it having few feeding Roots near home, the Tree can hardly be taken up well, without losing most of them, which will be a great hazard to the loss of your Tree.  
Secondly, But when a Tree is taken up young, as at one, two, or three years old, then there is but small head, so that a little Root will maintain that, and then this little Root lying not deep, and in a little compass of Ground, may be taken up with less loss, to the proportion of the Head, than a greater.  
Thirdly, When you have taken up these young Trees, in cutting off the end of the tap-root, and the ends of the greatest of the others, those very ends so cut off with the slope lowermost, will at that place put forth many small Roots, which lying near to the Body of the Tree, are the easier to be taken up with the Tree when 'tis Removed again.  
Lastly, Custom in Removing of Trees tends somewhat to their growing, being Removed; for I sansie, that if you could get some Acorns of an Oak, that had (with his Forefathers) been accustomed to Removing, as our Apple-stocks are, I do Judge it would be then as patient of changing his Habitation as they. From that which hath been said I hope you will conclude with me, that 'tis best to Remove, either Forest-Trees, or others, when young; for if you Remove them when they be older, the better the Ground is, the more the Tree runs down with a tap-root; therefore if never Removed before, the worse to remove off from such a Ground.  
Thus having Ordered these Young Trees till you have Nursed them up to the stature of six or seven Foot high, you may afterwards Transplant them into your Walks, Wood, or where else your Fancy pleaseth, only in Transplanting Observe this:  
Make your holes four Foot wide, and two Spade deep at least; half a year, or a quarter at least before the time of Planting (if it be a year 'tis the better, provided you keep that Mould which you threw out of the holes clean from Weeds and Grass, by turning it over as Occasion requires) and if you think your Ground be poor, or of some contrary Soil to what your Tree Naturally delights to grow in, mix it with some such like Earth as your Tree doth best delight to grow in; as for an Oak, if your Ground be Gravelly, mix it then with the upper Spade of Ground that is a Brick-Earth, turning these together with the Earth you did throw out of the holes; if Clay, mix it then with a light Loom, or a fat Sand, or small Gravel; and if the Ground be poor, a little laying of rotten dung in the bottom of your holes, but let none be among your Earth when you set your Trees, that is, to touch the roots of them.  
Having thus prepared your holes for your Tree, and your Earth, if your Ground be a dry Soil, then begin as soon as you find the Leaf to fall, that is in October: 'Tis not the Hill or Valley, North or South Situation which makes the finer or tougher Grain; but if there be a seeding Ground on the top of an Hill, or on the North side, more than there is in the Valley or Southside, there then will be the toughest Timber; for where a Tree grows most in a year, that Oak is the toughest Timber, and there that Tree shall have the most sap, as on a deep Loomy Ground: But let it be Hill or Valley, if it be a shallow ground, and the bottom Gravel, and not mixed with Loom or Clay, there Oaks will grow slow, and the Annual Circles being close together, the Timber must then be the finer Grained: and the sap of such Oaks is little, as I have many times Observed: Experience and Reason (which I have always hitherto taken with me as Guides in my Travel and Search after Nature) have confirmed me in this: A light Brick-Earth, or a Loomy-Clay produce the stateliest Oaks, soon, and toughest Timber, for there they grow quickest,  
Your Clays produce great Oaks, for that is a holding Ground; although they grow sometimes slow, yet they last long.  
Your Gravel produceth many Oaks, and straight, they grow slow, the Timber is fine, and they decay while they be young; the Reasons of this I have told you before.  
Having made Ready your Holes, and taken up your Trees well, I Advise you to open the Earth well round your Tree, keeping the side of your Spade to the Body of your Tree, to prevent Cutting the Roots when you take them up; and also to dig deep round the Tree, that when you come to pull up your Tree, it may come up easily, which will prevent those Roots which grow Elbow-like, which if they do not break off in pulling up, by straining them to pull up, they will crack so in the Elbow, that they will never grow, nor put forth Roots below that place; therefore for such Trees as be ticklish to Remove, take the more time, lest you verify the Old Proverb, which saith, 
Too much haste  
Oft makes waste.   
Such Roots as you find Bruised, or much Cracked, cut them off, till you come at firm sound Root. Such Trees as are slow-growers, as the Oak is, you may prune up to the smaller Head; as, if your Tree be taper and straight, you may prune up such a Tree to one shoot; but if your Tree be not taper, then leave two side-boughs, or more, to receive some of the Sap, which will make the shoot that you intent shall lead to make the body of the Tree, the smaller, and so your Tree will be taper; but top your shoots, all but your leading-shoot, which will make the Body of your Tree swell the more, and hinder them from equalling the leading-shoot, and by topping the other it will grow the stronger: I need not tell you which shoot you should leave to be the leading-shoot for your Tree, not Questioning but Sense and Reason will teach you to leave that which grows straightest and strongest; if you do leave any shoots, as most often it is necessary, leave them not right against one another, for that will make the Tree grow too suddenly thick in that place, but leave them one above another, so will your Tree grow the more taper, for it will be less and less upward, between the shoots, which shoots you must take off Year after Year, as your Tree runs up in height, minding still, now and then to leave some side-boughs to keep the Tree taper, or else you will want your height of Timber; or your Tree may grow top heavy, and so Crooked: I speak of Timber-trees, or the ways to Order Trees for Timber, (for I wish all Oaks were fit for Timber) but if your leading-shoot be much Crooked, then top it underneath a bud that tends upward, so low as if that bud lead away, it may grow near straight up; or cut off the leading-shoot under another that grows more upright, Ordering it to be the leading-shoot so, as your Tree grows, mind to lead it up every Year, according as you see Cause, taking care to keep off the Suckers, especially the first Year, unless you find the Head grow too great for the Body, then leave some side-boughs to receive some Sap, and to make your Tree taper, but this you shall hardly find in Oaks in their first Years growth, namely, to grow too much in Head.  
Thus endeavouring to keep your Tree, (of what sort soever it be, if it be for Timber) with no great Head, still keep the leading-shoot uppermost, by sometimes heading the other side-boughs, about a Foot or more from the Body, or else they will be ready sometimes to make your Tree top-heavy, therefore keep your Tree till you have got it to the height you intent, by keeping it as is abovesaid; and if you find it is not taper by these means, then in the Month February slit the Bark quite thorough on three or four sides, according to the bigness of your Tree; but if small, but one or two: so if the Tree be three yards high to the Head, then let three slits go up one yard, two slits two yards high, and one to the top: But if it be a straight Tree, and taper, as you would have it, if the Bark be bound, slit it on one or two sides, from the Ground to the top.  
If your tree be young, though thriving, it will do it no harm, but much good, for you may see in many thriving trees the Bark part of itself, telling you that it wants your help, therefore observe Nature, and assist her in all your undertake; for Wisdom standeth, not only in the Streets, but in the Woods, calling to you to learn of her.  
Note also, if you find any tree Crooked, slit it in the ham at the aforesaid time, and take off some of the lower side of his Head, and you will help the crook of the tree, whether it be great or small; and in time, by so doing, it will grow straight: for by slitting the Bark in the ham it makes the tree swell there, and so sets the tree straight; therefore make two or three slits in the ham, according to the bigness of the tree and crook; but if the tree be pretty great, then take your Bill and cut the Bark thorough in the ham in several places, about two or three Inches asunder, let the Cut be cut slanting upward, a little cross the Diameter of the tree; by so doing you will stop the Sap in that place, the Bark will dilate, and the place grow greater, and so the tree will grow straighter.  
Sometimes if your tree be not taper, in Summer when it shoots much, the weight of the Head will draw the Body crooked, and the Head will incline to the Ground; in such trees Leave shoots on the Body, to check and receive the Sap, and to keep it from abounding too much in the Head; but when you find your tree grown crooked by the Head, in Summer, with Leaves and Boughs weighing it down, as soon as you find it begin to lean, take off some of the Boughs on the leaning side, and top some according as you see cause: By this Summer-pruning you may keep your tree straight, therefore Observe it. I have found good success on Walnut-trees and Lines by it, etc.  
But though Oaks grow Crooked, it is not often by their great shoots, for on most Grounds it grows slowly, but sometimes their Head, or leading shoot being cropped off by cattle, it than breaks out on the sides into several leading shoots, and one leads one way, and another another; and so distributeth the Sap, which makes the tree not only grow crooked, but slowly; and sometimes the early shooting of the leading-shoot in the Spring causeth the same: For Frost coming upon the tender leaves and leading-bud, kills them, and then it is forced to break out a new on the sides; this happens oftentimes to young seedling Oaks in long Grass, which would gladly be more in the open Air, but by making too much haste many times they lose their Heads for it. Now in such Cases you must take off some, and cut some half a Foot off from the leading-shoot, preserving that which is most likely for the leading shoot, which though it be crooked, despair not, for Naturally it will grow straighter, and if you use pruning, and the aforesaid Rules, it will be straight much the sooner. But in case you find your Young Oak very much stubbed near the Ground, and never a shoot that is fit to lead to make a Tree, in such a young Tree you must cut it off close at the Ground, in the Springtime, so shall you have one fine shoot or more, but be sure take off all but one, and then you shall find that shoot thrive very much, till it hath got such a Head in bigness as the Head was before, and the Bark being then fine, it will enlarge itself for the growth of the shoot, and give good way for the Sap to run into the Head, and so make a fine Tree; therefore if your Tree be stunned, or much Crooked, then take this course, to head them close at the ground, and the Summer following neglect not to take off all the shoots but one, for at Midsummer it is as good, nay, better to prune some Trees than in the Spring, for then the Sap will soon cover round that wounded place, and if not heal it quite, it will preserve it from much harm, till the Spring following, and at that time shoots will not break out much into the head, to make it top-heavy: You may safely cut off small branches, and prune small Trees at this Summer-season. And for such Trees as have a great Pith, as the Ash and Walnut, I take it to be the best time for them. And whereas some say to the contrary, yet if the Reader will be Advised by me, let him prune such in Summer. But in the midst of Winter forbear to prune most Trees, especially great Boughs, or such Trees as have a great Pith, or tender, for then the wound lieth exposed to the open Air and Wet, and Frost coming upon the Wet, and piercing so far into the wounded place as the wet hath gone, kills the Wood, and makes a hole in that place, and that hole holding Water many times, Kills many a good Tree, especially where great Boughs are taken off, for they be long a covering over; and never will be covered if the Tree be Old.  
Therefore if your Tree be Old, forbear to cut off great Boughs; but if for some Reasons you are forced to do it, then cut off such Boughs two Foot, or a Yard from the Body of your Timber-tree; and let the place where you cut off such a Limb be perpendicular to the Horizon, rather inclining to the Nadir, than the Zenith; by so doing, the water will not lie on such a place, and then the Tree will receive no harm.  
But if your Tree be young and thriving, then cut off the Boughs as close as you can, keeping the wounded place perpendicular to the Horizon, and be sure not to leave Elbows to receive the wet, as too many of our Husbandmen do; for, the closer you cut off a Bough to the Body, the sooner the bark covereth that place, therefore cut off the side-boughs of young Timber-trees close and smooth.  
I wish I could persuade all Lovers of handsome Timber-trees, at every Fall of their Woods to prune up all the Timber-trees; but then the Wood must not stand too long before it be felled. You may prune off boughs of ten years' growth very well, and so every ten years; or oftener if it be in Hedgrowes, prune up your Trees till you have got them to such a height as you find most convenient, viz. to fifty or sixty foot high: For I have many times observed Trees, of Oak, Ash, Elm and Beech, to have leading shoots sixty foot high and more, when they have had not above ten foot of good Timber; for Boughs have broke out at that height, and have so distributed the sap, that they were little worth, but for the Fire; when, if they had been pruned up as is before directed, you might have had the same height of good Timber; which, how much more profitable it would be, and also beautiful, I leave to any man's Judgement.  
The Ash and Beech cover the wounded place over soon, and seldom break out many side-boughs: The Elm very frequently breaks out side-boughs, yet will arrive to a great height of good Timber: the Oak is a little subject to break out side-boughs, and though a slow grower, yet by its own hardness of his Wood he preserves himself well till it hath overgrown the wounded place, which it will in a few years do, if your Tree be young and thriving, and the boughs, not very great; for if the boughs be great, that place when they be cut off is such a Dam to the sap, that it forceth it to break out with many small boughs there; especially in such Trees as have a thick and rugged bark, as the Elm and Oak have when old.  
But if the Tree be young and thriving, then is the Bark thin and loose, and will more readily give way to the sap to ascend into the Head, and not break out into side-boughs; but if some few do break out, often pruning them close off will prevent that: But if you would be at a little more trouble, note this which I have found to be true, and your Timber shall pay you well for your pains.  
At Midsummer, after you have pruned up your Trees, take off all the small shoots that are broke out on the side of your Trees, close to the body of the Tree; do thus two or three years together, and you will find every year the side-boughs to be fewer and fewer, till you have a clear body, beautiful to behold, and profitable for as good Timber, thirty or forty foot or more, which otherwise would not have been a quarter so high. Thus may you make an Elm (which is a Tree most subject to break out side-boughs) as clear from boughs forty or fifty foot high, as they be.  
Your Oak that is young you may easily master, and bring it to a clear body; though it is some what troublesome in Woods, yet in Hedgrowes it may be practised with ease, or in Walks, or on single Oaks: But our Yeomen and Farmers are too much subject to spoil such Trees as would make our best Oaks, by heading them, and making them pollard's. I wish there were as strict a Law as could be made, to punish those that do presume to head an Oak, the King of Woods, though it be on their own Land.  
By this means we should have the Farmer that is scanted in Wood, by often pruning off the side-boughs make many finer Trees than now there are; for in such places there is great food to make him a great Tree; and then in Coppices, if you let a Tree stand to be very great, it spoils many a young one, and also your under-wood.  
But methinks I hear some opposing me, saying, that by so pruning up of Trees, they do not prove so well for the Joiner, Carpenter, Wheeler, etc. for they say, if the Tree doth overgrow the Knot, when they come to cleave such a Tree, that place proves faulty within, and the Timber is not so good.  
Secondly, They say, that cutting off the side-boughs, makes Trees more knotty.  
Thirdly, they say, that it makes a Tree decay sooner.  
To these three Objections I shall answer, and then hasten to conclude, and so leave my beloved Oak.  
I do grant, that if the Knots be great, though the Trees be young and thriving, and have covered the place over well, if you come to saw out such Trees for Plank, Board, or Wainscot, that there may be some Defect there where great boughs were cut off; but suppose there be, you have still the same length clear Timber at the lower end as you would have had if these boughs had not been cut off; and then by pruning up your Trees, they grow straighter, and your Tree carries a greater length of Timber, useful for Beams, Summers, Raising, Wallplats, Rafters, Joyce, etc. and how much Timber these spend more than the other, viz. Board and Wainscot, etc. I leave you to determine. But my Advice is, not to let your boughs be great, but take them off from such Trees whilst young, and then the boughs will be young and small, and such Trees will cover such places in a little time, and these small Knots will not be perceived then, in case the Tree be sawn for Wainscot, etc.  
Again, as to the first Objection, this seems to me a full Answer; as first, for such Trees as stand abroad single, you shall find them to have a clear body, of six, seven, eight or ten foot high, I only ask my Opponent, whether such a length of Timber had Knots on it or no? I hope they will grant it had; well then, how comes it to be so clear without Knots? Now I tell you, 'tis Cattle that crop off the boughs whilst they be young, and that makes it clear from boughs, and the sap mounts up higher, and there breaks out, which if it were but taken off as it is below, it than would be as clear sixty foot as it is at six, and as strait.  
This very Reason possessed me so much, that it told me, an Elm (which is the most subject of any Tree to break out side-boughs) might be made clear Timber sixty foot high, as well as ordinarily they be six, by early, often, and Summer-pruning. This my Experience hath proved true.  
Again, a Thorn or White-bush growing in a Park, and kept under by Dear cropping of it, for eight, ten or more years, so that it hath got a hundred little boughs, if it once get but a leading shoot, and that out of the Dears reach, all shall unite in that one, and that shall come to be a strait body, and straight-grained, notwithstanding it was so crooked below; for the lower ones will all die by the Dear cropping them, and the saps free ascending into the leading shoot.  
But as to the second Objection, I grant, that sometimes cutting off boughs, (especially great ones, and of Old trees) makes more, but then they be small; for the more a River is divided into small Rivulets, the easier those little ones are stopped and brought into one; for a great River must have a great Dam, and taking off a great bough is a great Dam to the sap; for the Tree falling suddenly narrow upwards, and the sap being used to spend itself there, and having free passage thither, when it is got into that place it breaks out on each side of the Knot, into many little boughs; but if you take off these little boughs that Midsummer, the Summer after there will be but a small quantity in comparison of the Spring-sap: And the bark being then loose, it makes the easier way for the Sap to ascend into the head, and not to break out into Boughs; and so having prepared the way by the Sap, that Midsommer-shoot will not be at a stand so much the Spring following.  
Or if the Spring after you have taken off the Boughs, you take off the little ones that were shot out the year before, and slit the bark above each Knot, that is, somewhat great down to the Knot; by so doing you may bring your Tree to have a clear Body, by a few years pruning; for I have Observed it usual in many Trees the Year they have been pruned up, for the Bark to have cracked an Inch or more; which tells you most plainly, that the pruning of Trees doth make them swell in Body, therefore help the penned places by slitting the Bark: you may often see this on your Ash, etc.  
Pray you, how comes it, that in your Coppices you shall have Timber-trees ten or twelve Foot high, clear, without Bough, and then the Tree break out all into head? It is (I am confident) the under-wood which smothers, and beats off the side-boughs as high as that grows, and so makes the Timber clear so high; also if you mark where high Timber-trees are, that have clear Bodies a great height, they do, or did stand thick together, and so one draws up another, smothering the side-boughs, and beating them off (sometimes) by their Motion in great Winds.  
Thus by what has been said of Cattles Cropping, Trees standing in Coppices, and by Trees standing thick together, you may Learn that you may do the same, and have Timber, by pruning, as clear from Knots, as it is by those Accidents.  
Thirdly, Whereas they say it makes a tree decay sooner; I grant this, that to prune off great Boughs from an Old tree, makes it decay sooner; for the Wounded place being great, and the Tree slow of growth, is a long time covering over that place (if it can be done at last) and that takes wet and Air, and decays the Tree; therefore I do not Advise you to take great Boughs off from any tree.  
But small Boughs cut off smooth, and close, from an Old tree or Young, causeth the tree to last longer, and to be clearer Timber: For when small Boughs are taken off from the side of your Tree, though Old, the Tree than not drawing much Sap, that little Sap doth most of it then ascend into the Head, and so makes the Head continue fresh and thriving the longer; and taking off the side-boughs makes the Tree to swell, and grow sooner into a great Body.  
For the Boughs that break out of the side have not such deep Root in the Body of the Tree, (I mean those that come forth after the Tree hath been once pruned) for every bough that breaks out, breaks out through the Bark, and hath its Root between the Bark and Tree that Year, and as the Tree increaseth, so that knot is deeper and deeper in the Body of the Tree: thus taking off the small Boughs often, keepeth the Tree clearer from great knots within the Timber, and the little knots do cover over so soon before the outside of the knot be dead, that they become as clear Timber.  
Thus have I showed you, that all sorts of Trees come to have clear Bodies by pruning, either Natural or Artificial; that is by cattle cropping, by under-wood beating off the side-boughs, or by standing close one to another, and so drawing up one another, and smothering the side-boughs by standing so thick, or by pruning, etc.  
Reader, if thy Faith hold out, Read on;  
But if you find you can't believe, be gone:  
For, with more ease a Man might undertake  
To bring Brute Bear unto the Fatal stake,  
Than him to Teach, whose Infidelity  
Does Demonstration, Reason, Truth defy.  
Thus have I showed in part how to Raise and Order the Oak from the Acorn, till it is thirty or forty Years old. There is one thing more to be known, which is, how to Remove an Oak that is large (or other Tree) and that was never Removed before; I shall borrow part of it from the Learned Esquire Evelin's Discourse of Forest-trees, p. 13. Choose a Tree as big as your Thigh, saith he, (but if less, the better to grow) Remove the Earth from about him, cut through all the Collateral Roots, till with a Competent strength you can enforce him down upon one side, so as to come with your Axe at the tap root; cut that off, and cut all the Roots smooth on the under-side, re-dress your Tree, and so let it stand, covered about with the Mould you loosened from it, till the next Year, or rather longer, then take it up at a fit Season, and you will find it will (at those ends where the Roots were cut off) have drawn many tender young Roots, apt to take, and sufficient for the Tree wheresoever you shall transplant him: further to facilitate the Removal of such great Trees, or small ones that are ticklish to Remove, for the Adornment of some particular place, or the rarity of the Plant, there is this Expedient: A little before the hard Frosts surprise you, make a Trench about your Tree, at such distance from the stem as you judge sufficient for the Roots; dig this so deep till you come lower than the side-roots, if your Ground be a dry Ground, water the Hill of Earth, the Frosts will lay hold on it the more, but commonly in Winter before Frosts we have showers saves you that Labour; then lay some Litter in the bottom of your Trench, which will keep that part from freezing, in case you have Occasion to undermine it more to loosen it when you take it up, as is very likely you will: Thus let it stand till some hard Frost do bind the Earth firmly to the Roots, and then convey it to the Pit or Hole prepared for its new station, having before covered the Earth by with some Horselitter to keep that Earth from freezing, which Mould will then be ready to cover that clod round the Root of the Tree, and the ends of the Roots, and so secure it the better; and that Litter will do well to lay round the Tree on the top of the Ground.  
But in case the Tree be very great, and the Mould about the Roots be so ponderous as not to be removed by an ordinary force, you must then have a Gin or Crane, such a one as they have to Load Timber with; and by that you may weigh it out of its place, and place the whole upon a Trundle or Sledge, to convey it to the place you desire; and by the aforesaid Engine you may take it off from the Trundle, and set it in its hole at your pleasure. By this Address you may transplant trees of a great stature without the least Disorder, and by taking off the less of their Heads, which is of great Importance where this is practised, to supply a Defect, or remove a Curiosity.  
I do suppose that one of these small Cranes or Gins would be very useful to those that have a great many pretty big trees to take up in their Nurseries, especially such as have strong and tough Roots; for if the Ground were but well loosened round the Roots, and a Rope well fastened a little above the Ground to the stem of the tree, I dare engage, that this way one Man with a Lever shall draw up more than ten Men: And besides, this will draw upright, which is better than drawing on one side, as many are forced to do. You must have on the lower end of the three Legs, pieces of Plank, to keep it from sinking too far into the loose Ground: I have now one a making, and hereafter I shall be able to give you a better Account of it than now; the only Inconvenience I think of at present, is, in fastening the Rope about the Tree so, that it may not slide, or gall the tree; but a piece of good Leather, about four or five Inches broad, with three or four Straps to come through so many holes, when it is fastened to the Rope they may all be strained alike; this I suppose will do your work. The aforesaid Learned Author Adviseth you, before you take up trees, to mark them all on one side, the better to place that side to point to the same Aspect it did before: For, Oaks growing on the North side of an Hill, are more Mossy than those that grow on the Southside: this I grant, because that side is Colder and Wetter; for it is Cold and Wet Ground that breeds Moss most, and that gets from the Ground upon the Trees: Also he says, that Appletrees standing in a Hedge-row, after the Hedge was taken away, the Appletrees did not thrive so well as they did before, for want of the shelter of the Hedge. I say, that if the Hedge-row had drawn up the Appletrees so as to make them top-heavy, they might not thrive so well; but if they were not, the shelter being taken away, they would thrive the better: unless by thriving he means growing in height: See Lord Bacon's Natural History, p. 113. For a tree penned up cannot spread.  
But as for placing the Southside of a tree South again, this is not to the purpose; for the greatest time that Trees grow in, is from the Suns entering into Aries to his entering into Libra; and all that time (that is, half a Year) the Tree hath the Sun on the North-side both Morning and Evening, and the North side hath the benefit of warming itself later in the Evening, and earlier in the Morning, having two hours time earlier, and two later in the height of Summer, more than the Southside: Again, you shall have the Cold be as much on the Southside of a Wall or Tree in the Night, as on the North, if the Wind blow on the Southside; therefore I do Judge that to place a Tree the Southside South again, signifieth little, though the same Author saith, p. 88 and the Author of the Book, Called [Mathematical Recreations] p. 75. saith, That a Tree groweth more on the Southside than on the North; I have oft Observed the Annual Circles, and have found as many, nay more, to the contrary; for thus I have always found, on a Tree near the Ground the Annual Circles have been the greatest on that side from which most of the great Roots came: As if a Tree grow on the Southside of a Bank, you shall find the Circles on that Tree to be greatest on the North-side, etc. but higher on a Tree the Circles are ever greatest on that side the Tree where there is a great Bough breaks out, for the Sap has great recourse thither; many times by sudden cold some is stayed by the way, and so increaseth that side of the Tree most.  
For I take the Sap of a Tree, if the Wether be open (that is, of those Trees that shed their Leaves) to be still ascending into the Head, though it be Midwinter; though there do not rise enough to keep the Leaves on, nor to make it bud forth, yet it is plain that it keeps the buds full and fresh, and increaseth the growth of the Tree, for that same pory substance of the Tree which is between every Annual Circle that is made by the Winter-sap; and the milder the Winter is, the greater you shall find this to be, as is visible in Ash, Oak, Elm, etc. The other, which is more hard and clear, is increased by the Sap in Summer; and the more feeding the Summer is by showers, the more shall the Circles increase on dry Ground; and according to the Nature of the Ground that the Tree Loves, and the depth of the Soil, so doth the Tree increase in these Circles and growth in all parts.  
Between these Annual Circles doth some Sap rise, as is plain in a tree that is Barked round, for that tree shall put forth Leaves and increase in Body, but produce little or no shoot, and the more porous the tree is between these Annual Circles, the longer that tree will Live, as accidentally I have had it Experimented on Walnut-trees, Ashes, etc. And they have continued sometimes two years, and sometimes near three before they have died, when they have been barked quite round the stem, a Foot or more; and by way of Experiment I cut off the Bark from a Holly-tree and a Box-tree about half a Foot clean, quite round the stem or body of each tree, and the tops of both did die in less than one years' time, which informed my Reason, as much as though I had Learned it out of the most Learned Author, that the Sap of those trees that shed their Leaves, doth in a small quantity ascend between the Annual Circles, in that pory place: for trees that hold their leaves, their Wood is close, and Compact between the Annual Circles, and that is the Reason that they die soon, being barked round: Also their Sap being of a Turpentine and Clammy Substance, is the Reason they hold their Leaves all Winter, being as it were glued on by that Substance; and the Sap of such Trees as hold their Leaves, being once set by cold, requires a pretty deal of heat to make it thin, and set it on Motion: As Comparatively, a little Cold will set or make stiff Pitch or Turpentine; but it must be Frost that sets or stays the Motion of Water.  
Also those Trees which hold their Leaves will grow much better under the dropping of other great Trees, than those that shed their Leaves; for their Turpentine-sap shoots off the drops, so that they have little or no harm by such a Situation,  
But in case you should have a Tree Barked round by Accident, and would willingly preserve it, your best way is to get a shoot below the wounded place, and if your Tree be Young, you shall then have several break out a little above the Root, if you find they shoot strong, preserve two of the strongest, and see that the Barked place be near the Ground; but if your Tree be Barked high from the Ground, or that it shoot up slowly, then leave but one shoot, keeping all other that shoot out clean taken off, as soon as ever you see them break out; so Nourish up the two shoots or shoot till you have got them higher than the wounded place; then cut a long slit in the Bark, above the wound, and join in that shoot exactly, making it fit the slit, the inside of one bark right against the inside of the other; tie it close in, and Loom it over with good and well tempered Loom, to keep the Air and wet out; or better with soft Wax. The Spring is the best Season, but if you fear your Tree to decay, defer not, but do it as soon as your shoots be shot long enough.  
If you would be further satisfied concerning the Largeness and Usefulness of this Royal Tree, see Esquire Evelyn's Discourse of Forest-trees, who hath writ very well of this and others; but before I bid adieu, I must Plant these few unpruned Verses, and so leave the most Useful Oak.  
O Stately Tree! Who right can speak thy Praise  
Doth well deserve the Laurel or the Bays.  
Ask but our Thames what Burdens thou hast boar  
Of Gold and Silver fine, and in their ore,  
Of Rubies, Diamonds, and Pearls most rare,  
With others which past valuation are.  
Of Silk and Satins fine to clothe the Back;  
Of Wines, Italian, French, and Spanish Sack:  
Of Spices, Fruits, and many a Rich die,  
To Satisfy and Feast the Curious Eye:  
Of Mastic, Myrrh, and many a Rich Gum;  
Aloes and Drugs which from the Indies come.  
He who Loves this thy Burden, and not Thee,  
He deserves never to be worth one Tree.  
'Twas Faithful Oak preserved our King, that we  
Might thence Learn Lessons of true Loyalty.  
Kings, Lords, and Earls, and Men of Low Degree,  
Transported are by this our Royal Tree;  
Oak-Walls our Seas and Island do enclose,  
Our Best Defence against our Foreign Foes.  
No thing on Earth but Oak can Time Redeem,  
No Wood deserving of so high Esteem.  
When in Salt Seas Sir Francis Drake did steer,  
Sailing in Oak he saved one day i'th' Year.  
His Oak which the Terrestrial Globe did Measure,  
Through Dangers led him t' Honour, Profit, Pleasure.  
No Wood like Oak that grows upon the Ground,  
To make our House and Ships last long and sound;  
No Oak like Ours: By Love to Oaks let's then  
Appear true Subjects, and right Englishmen.   

CHAP. XI.  
Of raising and Ordering the Elm.  
THere are several sorts of Elm, but the best sort (because it produceth the greatest Trees, and soon comes to perfection) is that which hath its Leaves not much less than Line, or Limetree leaves, and shoots with a shoot not much less than a Sallow when it is lopped: it is called by some the Trench-Elm, by others the Marsh-Elm. Some other sorts there are that are not much inferior to this for producing high and good Timber. One sort there is that hath on the young shoots great pieces like Cork, subject to spread in head much, and grow crooked, this is not very good to make high Trees, but makes good pollard's: Another sort there is which I see in Essex, the sides are subject to have Wenns thick on them, which makes the Body hard to cleave: this is not very good to make a high Tree, but good pollard's.  
All sorts of Elms do increase from the roots much of themselves; and the more you take, the more they will give, provided you keep them from being taken from you; that is, from being spoilt by cattle, and though they be so kind of themselves, yet there are several ways to increase them, but the way to have of the best Kind's, and to make the finest Trees, is by raising them of seeds.  
Therefore about the beginning of March, or about the tenth, you shall find the broad things like Hops begin to fall, which have the seed in them; when you find these begin to fall, in a dry day (if conveniently you can) gather what quantity you please to sow, then lay them thin in some place where they may dry four or five days, and then having prepared a Bed (in bigness according to the quantity of your Seeds) of fresh light Brick-earth, sow the seeds and their Vessels all over, then sift some of the same Mould all over the bed, for they will not well rake in; let them be covered about half an Inch thick; if the Summer prove dry, water them sometimes, and keep them clean from Weeds; let not weeds stand on your bed till they be great, lest in pulling such up you spoil their spearing, by breaking it off, or by letting in the dry Air, and so kill it; therefore keep your Beds clean from weeds, and about the middle or latter end of August they will be come up: About the midst of September sift a little richer Mould all over the Bed, but not so much as to cover them, thus do the next Summer, and take off the side ● boughs though young, and when they have stood two years on that Bed, then plant them on beds in your Nursery, keeping them with digging and pruning up yearly, till you have got them to the stature you think convenient to plant abroad. In setting this or any sort of Tree forget not to top the ends of the tap-root▪ or other long ones, and also not to leave a bruised End uncut off. You may set them in straight lines in your Nursery, about a yard one Row from another, and about a foot and a half one Tree from another, in the Rows; mind the Natural depth it first did grow at, and set it so when you remove it; have a care of setting any Tree too deep, and also keep not this Tree nor a Walnut long out of the ground, for their spongy Roots will in a little time grow Mouldy and be spoilt: Therefore if you cannot set them, let them be covered with Earth, and then you shall find this Tree as patient in removing, and as certain to grow as any Tree I know.  
The ground they like best is a light Brick-earth or Loom, as I said before; that they dislike most is, a rocky ground, or a stiff clay; but if one have a mixture of Brick-earth, etc. and the other of small Gravel, Drift-sand, Sand, etc. then there they will do pretty well.  
They naturally increase very much of themselves, and the more where they meet with natural ground: if you fell a thriving Tree, and fence in the place, you then may have a store to furnish your Woods and Hedgerows with the worst; and the straightest to nurse up in your Nurseries, for to make Walks, Avenues, Glades, etc. with; for there is no tree more proper for the certainty of its growing, especially if you make good large and deep holes, and where the ground is not natural, there help it by some that is, and then you may hope for a stately high growing Tree, if you take care in pruning it up, as is before showed of the Oak. You need not much fear its growing top-heavy; for it having such a thick bark, the sap is subject to lodge in it, and break out many side-boughs, and the Roots apt to break out with suckers, the more when pruned, therefore prune it up high, and often, but let the season be February, for then its fine dark, green-coloured Leaf, and long hanging on it, is the more ornamental, and fit for walks.  
As for the way to increase it from the Roots of another Tree, I do refer you to the seventh Chapter, which will show you fully how to perform the same; observing but them Rules▪ you may raise many fine young Trees from the Roots of another, much better than naturally they will be produced from the Roots.  
I advise you where you find your ground Natural in your Hedge-rowes, there to plant some of this most useful wood; for it will run in the Banks, and thicken your Hedges with wood, and is very courteous to other sorts of wood growing by it.  
Do not let ignorant Tradition possess you that it will grow of the Chips, or of Truncheons set, like Sallowes, though the Author of the Commons Complaint saith it will, for I assure you it neither doth nor will.  
In Lopping of this, be careful to cut your boughs close and smooth off, minding to keep them perpendicular to the Horizon, the better to shoot off the wet,  
It will grow well of Laying, (as is before noted and also directed in the Chapt. of Laying) in which if you take but a little labour more than ordinary, from one Tree you may have (in a few years) many in your Hedge-rowes or elsewhere; therefore defer not, but put this in practice, especially the great Kind: My Lord Bacon adviseth to bud it, to make the Leaves the larger, but that is needless.  
Part of these Rules I wrote some years ago, at the request, and for the use of the truly ingenious Planter, and Lover thereof, Sir Henry Capell; and I shall give you the same Conclusion now, that I did then to him, which take as followeth.  
Since gardening was the first and best Vocation,  
And Adam (whose all are by Procreation)  
Was the first Gardener of the World, and ye  
Are the green shoots of Him th' Original Tree;  
Encourage then this innocent old Trade,  
Ye Noble Souls that were from Adam made;  
So shall the Gard'ners' labour better bring  
To his Country Profit, Pleasure to his King.   

CHAP. XII.  
Of Raising and Ordering the Ash.  
AND as for Raising the Ash, I shall give you the same Rules as I did to the aforesaid Honourable Person the same time, before the Discourse of Forrest-trees was written.  
Let your Keys be thorough ripe, which will be about the middle or end of October, or November: When you have gathered them, lay them thin to dry, but gather them off from a young strait thriving Tree: My Reason to gather them off a young thriving tree, is, because there will the Keys, or seeds in the Keys, be the larger and solider, therefore by consequence they are the abler to shoot the stronger, and to maintain themselves the better and longer: Though I know by experience that the seeds of some old Plants will come up sooner (so the seed be perfect) than the seed of young Plants; and also that old seed, (so it will but grow) will come up sooner than new Seed. My aforesaid Reasons do in part demonstrate this: Or thus, Nature finding herself weak, doth (like a provident Mother) seek the sooner to provide for her weak Children: for Nature is one in divers things, and yet various in one thing.  
Now if you gather them off from a strait tree, 'tis the likelier they will run more up, and grow straighter than those which be gathered off a Pollard or crooked tree: for it is well known, and might be proved by many Instances, that Nature doth delight in Imitation, and the Defects of Nature may be helped by Art; for the great Alterations which many times we find visible in many Vegetables of the same species, they all proceed either from the Earth, the Water, or the Heavenly Influences; but the last is the greatest Author of Alteration, both in Sensibles, Vegetables and Animals. However, Like still produceth its Like; and since there is such plenty of Forrest-trees that bear seed, you may as well gather all sorts of Keys and Seeds off or under such Trees, as not.  
As for the time of sowing them, let it be any time between the latter end of October, and the last of January; for they will lie till Spring come twelve Months before they appear: if your ground be not very subject to great weeds, you may sow them with Oats, if you be minded to make a Wood of it; and in your Woods on the top of your Ground; but if they be prepared beforehand, they will be much more certain of growing: therefore if you would be sure to raise good store of them for to make Walks, or furnish your Woods with, etc. having gathered your Keys, and ordered them as is aforesaid, prepare some sifted Earth, or Sand, which is better by keeping an equal warmth and moisture, to prepare them for spearing. Having prepared your sand, and a house to lay them in, where the Air may freely come, then in this House lay one Laying of Sand and a Laying of Keys, parting your Keys well; so do till you have (Laying after Laying) covered all your Keys in the Couch, any time in Winter, as is before directed: Let your Sand be pretty moist, and so keep it all that year; and having prepared your Ground by often digging, and a tender Soil, (which the Ash loves) then about the latter end of January sow them on this Bed, covering them about one Inch, or an Inch and a half thick: Do not let them lie too long uncovered when you take them out of their Couch; for than they will be speared, and if they lie too long in the Air, it will spoil them: Do not sow them in frosty weather; but if Frosts be, stay till they be over.  
Mind to keep them clean from weeds the first year, for they will shoot but little the first year, but the second they will shoot strongly: the Winter after you may transplant them upon Beds, pruning the little side-shoots, and topping the tap-root. Keep them with digging and pruning every year on these Beds, and in few years they will be fit for Walks, Woods, etc. and one of these thus ordered, shall be worth ten taken out of Woods, for they will be taper and fine trees. When you remove an Ash, take not off his head, if he be not too top-heavy, that you can possibly help it; for an Ash and a Walnut are two of the worst Trees I know to head, they having such a great Pith: but the side-boughs you may be bold to take off, provided you take them off close, and the Boughs not very great. It is not very apt to break much into side-boughs, and heals over the wound as well as any tree except the Beech; then why will you have low Timber-trees of Ashes, when you may as well have high ones? Therefore prune up your young Ash-trees well and often: And if you follow but these Rules, you may raise them as easily as Barley, and as thick.  
As touching the several Kind's, some Authors will have two sorts, the Male and Female: but there is no such thing as Male and Female among Plants, though some Plants are so called; for what Act of either do any two Plants communicate to each other? The greatest difference that ever I observed in young Ashes, among the many thousands that I have raised, was in their Bark; for I have had some that have had blackish Bark, some radish, the Leaves alike, but what difference there will be in the Keys and Timber, I yet know not.  
The Ash is not fit to be set near fine Gardens, for the Leaves turn to soil suddenly, and so spoil your Walks; also the Roots run so shallow that they will rob your Borders, and spoil your Fruit-trees: They are as bad by your plow'd Ground, for the Roots will so draw the strength of the Ground from the Corn, that it will languish and pine away. And this I have observed, that the Summer after a Tree is lopped, it shall rob the Corn more than another bigger standing by it, as may be visible by the growth of the Corn: I have wilfully experienced it, and I conceive the Reason to be this; the Sap riseth into the head of the Pollard (as usually it did) and so into the Boughs, but finding the Boughs cut off, it filleth the Head so full, that it causeth it to swell in the Spring; and this is the reason Pollard-heads are bigger than any other part of the body of the Tree; the head being so full that it can contain the sap no longer, it than breaketh out into abundance of young shoots, and when they set once a growing they grow apace, and so the Bark of them being thin and open for the Sap to run in, they receive as much as the Roots can possibly provide for them▪ and endeavour to enlarge the Head to that magnitude as it was at before.  
But though the Ash doth harm to grow near or upon ploughed Ground, yet it is the usefullest wood that grows, for the Plough and other uses belonging to the Ploughman. It is a quick-growing wood, and will grow pretty well on most sorts of Grounds, provided they be not too wet, or very shallow: It grows best on such Grounds as have their surface of a loose Nature, so that it be not too shallow. It produceth excellent Timber for several uses, and is such a quick-grower, that from a Key, in Forty years, one Ash was sold for Thirty pounds sterling, as witnesseth the ingenious Author of the Discourse of Forrest-trees, pag. 22. And this I can tell, which my Lord and I measured, of the shoot of an Ash that stood between the Woodyard at Hadham-Hall, and a place where I used to raise Melon plants; that the second years shoot was Eight foot within two Inches; which had it shot but a few years at this rate, it would soon have been a very great Tree, and worth a like price.  
Of all the Wood that I know, there is none burns so well green as the Ash; and that is one Reason that many a fine Pollard is spoilt: For your bad Husbands (as they are termed) are as unkind to Trees as they are to themselves: For their want of Wood early in the Winter, makes them fly to the Ash, whence they hack off the Boughs, and thus leave him all Winter; in which time the wood being not very hard, that drinks in the wet at these wounded places, and before the Spring comes to heal it over, decays, and so by that means every Winter receiveth the wet more and more, till it hath destroyed Root, Body and Branch.  
On the other side, there are some which will not lop their Trees till they bear very great Boughs; and then lop off them, (smooth and well cut off) though it be in the Spring; yet in such great wounds, before the Sap can cover the place, the wet makes a hole in some or many of these places; and so you lose both Body and Lops in a few years. Besides the lopping of Trees young, that is, at ten or twelve years at the most, by so doing you keep your Tree much the longer alive; and you shall have shoots of Trees at first felling, grow more into wood in one year, than they do when old Lops in two or three, and in all Respects are as useful for the Fire: Then I entreat you be not so wilful, as to make you and yours poor, and also spoil your trees.  
Therefore in lopping of pollard's, especially soft wood, let it be towards the Spring, and let not your Lordship's grow so great, as to spoil your trees and lose the use of your Money. If once you find your Pollard grow much hollow at the Head, down with it as soon as may be, for it then decays more in the Body than the Lop comes to; and if your Timber-trees be dead-topt, or most of the Head dead, or that you find Wood-peckers, or Nihills make holes in them, than fell them as soon as the season is, (which is from October to February) for when they begin to decay, they decay apace.  
I know it is the Opinion of most men, that these Birds spoil their Trees; but let me tell you, they rarely make holes in sound Timber, therefore Learn of them, and fell the trees of which they give you warning by making holes in them: the sooner the less Timber lost.   

CHAP. XIII.  
Of Raising and Ordering the Beech.  
OF the Kind's of Beech I know but one, though some say there be more.  
About the middle of September you will find the Mast begin to fall apace, then gather what Quantity you think good to sow, and as soon as your seeds be dry, make a Couch of Sand, as you are before directed for the Ash, and sow them before the Month September be past; Keep them in the Couch moderately moist (not so wet as you keep the Ash) until the latter end of January, then sow them in a bed of light gravelly Earth, made on purpose: Or if you fancy to sow them in your Woods, that is the best time; or you may sow them in the Month September in your Woods: But if you keep them in the House all Winter, and sow them at the first Rise of the Spring, you will preserve them from Mice and other Vermin the better; they affect a gravelly light Soil, and will not thrive on Clayes: If you would make a Nursery of them, your Ground must be accordingly, or else they will thrive but badly with you.  
Of all Woods that are, this may the best be pruned up; for it grows over the place in little time, and is not subject to break out side-boughs: It is fitting for Walks where the Ground is Natural for it, but it is so nice in its ground, that I do think there are few Walks of any great Length, but have some Veins of Ground it doth not like.   

CHAP XIV.  
Of Raising and Ordering the Walnut.  
BEfore we come to Raise this Tree, or Gather the Nuts, there may be these Inquiries made.  
First, you will desire to know what kind of Nut is likeliest to produce the best Fruit; and to know what Kind's will alter from that Kind to a better (as most Kind's of Fruit will degenerate, some for the better, and some near the same, and some worse) as also to know the very Nut, or Nuts, and other sorts of Fruits which will do so.  
As for the Kind's that are likeliest to produce the best Fruit, and the most likely to produce better, Observe to gather your Nuts, Stones, or Kernels off from some young thriving Tree, that is in its Prime of bearing, and hath the Kernels plump, large, and full, and of the best sorts; and if it be of Fruit that is too subject to Ripe late with us, then let it be of the earliest Kind's, and as for the latest Kind, preserve them for Stocks only: also if it may be, make choice of such Fruit as is lately produced from some other good Kind, and is better than the Kind it came of; for you cannot expect to have as good an Apple produced from the Kernel of a Crab, as you may have from the Kernel of a good Pippin: for if the one bring you a good Wilding, and the other an Apple, either more large, or more beautiful, and as good, if not better, and of different taste, this is as much as can be well expected: for Nature doth not run her Journey all at once, but makes several small ones, and many times more backward than forward, the better to encourage Ingenious Men to try and observe her ways: but to those that are diligent she often drops her blessings, and requites them well for their diligence. And if you would obtain a blessing in you Works by Nature, you must frequently be begging it of the great God of Nature, and by his assistance and your diligence, you need not doubt accomplishing you Lawful desires: Of this Truth doubt not.  
The Lord Bacon, in his Natural History, tells you of an Old Tradition, that boughs of the Oak put into the Earth, will put forth Wild Vines. I wish all such Old Traditions were buried in the Earth in room of the Oak-boughs.  
He tells us also of an Old Beech-tree cut down, the Root whereof put forth a Birch, See p. 111.  
This most Learned Man, in his next page lays down six Rules (though all, as he confesseth, untried by him) concerning the transmutation of Plants.  
The first is, if you would have one Plant turn into another, you must have the Nourishment overrule the Seed.  
The Second is, to bury some few Seeds of the Plant you would change, among other Seeds.  
The Third is, to make some Medley or mixture of Earth with some other Plants bruised, or shaved, either Leaf or Root.  
The Fourth is, to mark what Herbs some Earth does put forth of its self, and to sow some contrary Seed in that Earth.  
The Fifth is, to make an Herb grow contrary to its Nature.  
The Sixth is, to make Plants grow out of the Sun, or open Air; as in the bottom of a Pond, or in some great hollow tree.  
I might and could Answer to all these, but I think it would be too tedious; for I do verily believe, that to sow Seeds any way that can be devised by Man, will not in the least cause them to be quite another kind of Plant; for if you find any alteration, in any Plant that is, it is from the Conception and Nativity of the Seed; for there is no real alteration but by Seed. I know that Plants or Trees may bring fairer, or smaller Flowers, or Fruits according to the Ordering and Natural Situation of the Ground, and the contrary: For it is in vain to think, that the Kernels of an Apple will bring forth a Pear, or a Pear an Apple; or that Cherry-stones will produce a Plumb, or Plumb-stones a Cherry: But if you sow the Kernels of good Pears or Apples, etc. then you may expect good Fruit, and of different taste, shape, or bigness, as is aforesaid; for I do believe all our sorts of Pippins come from one: the Burry-pear from the Green-field, the Pettit Rouselet from the Katherine, etc. And so of Walnuts, or other Fruit; and what should be the Reason than we do not Raise as many new sorts of Fruit as the French? And though I do deviate a little from my intended Discourse, I shall show you that we can do it as well as they, and I suppose better, though we do it not; but before I proceed to give you further Judgement of it, I will in some measure Answer my Query, which was, to know the very particular Fruit that will alter for the best: I do not affirm it as true as the Gospel, but only conclude according to Reason.  
First, it is known by Experience in Flowers to be true; that such Flowers as differ in number of Leaves, in shape, in Colours, the Seeds of such will produce Flowers much different from the Ordinary Kind of Flowers, though produced all of one Flower but a Year or two before; nay, a particular Flower among many others, of one Plant, shall bring more double ones than twenty others that are not so qualified as it: this is apparently known to all that take delight in Raising of Flowers, that the Stock-gilly-flower that hath Flowers of 5, 6, 7, 8, or 9 Leaves, that the Seed of such a particular Flower or Flowers will produce more double ones than those Plants that bring forth but four leaves, Quantity for Quantity of Seed, twenty for one: You may know these Flowers before they blow out in the bud; I confess this Flower doth show this by its Leaves more than any other I know; for this Flower having no thrum in the middle, as the most of Flowers have, Nature hath given it this Sign to inform Man, that those that have a Leaf or Leaves added to them more than their usual kind, will bring forth those with many Leaves, and make a fine double Flower; which when it hath attained to, it than is come to the bounds of Nature, which the Almighty hath allotted it, saying, Thus far shalt thou go, and no further: for when it is thus a double flower, it never beareth Seed more, but by endeavouring blows itself to Death.  
If you be Curious, you may observe the same Rule in several other flowers that have no thrum in the middle, as Auriculoes, Primrose, Wall-flowers, Campians, and several others; and when you find on Leaf or Leaves more than the ordinary number, you may conclude there, Nature hath set one step forward in altering from the ordinary Kind; therefore if you be a Lover of Plants, or a Servant of Nature, be diligent, and whensoever you see your Mistress step out of Door, then do you wait upon her to her Journeys end, for 'tis on the Diligent she bestows her Favours.  
Also those flowers which bear Seed when double, as the Gillyflower, African, etc. Sowing the Seed of such double flowers, they will bring you more and better flowers a hundred for one than single ones; and in sowing the Seed of such, you shall have several Varieties, but most marked with the colour the Mother-plant was of; and some of these will, as it were, run beyond the limits of Nature, and then they will break, or have pods in the middle, and then never bear Seed more. Gillyflowers have their sign, which will bear Seed, and which not: Those that will bring Seed (if Wether or other Accidents hinder not) have their Horns in the middle of the Flower.  
It is also observed in the marking of flowers, that the Seed of those that be striped shall bring the most striped ones, and some of different Colours and stripes, their Seed all alike. But it may be Answered, that this may be true in flowers, for none can deny it, but that such flowers will alter, and bring forth such flowers as aforesaid: but can the altering of the Fruit be known by the flower?  
To this I Answer, that you have not only the Leaves of the flower, but the thrum and the Fruit itself, to inform you which will alter; therefore by the Shape, Colour, or Thrum in the Flower, you may know which fruits will alter, and it is possible, which will alter for the best; for it is commonly known, that fruit will alter from the fruit they come of, by sowing the Nuts, Kernels, or Seeds.  
Now, when you have made choice of your Seeds, Stones, Nuts, Raise them as is Directed in each Chapter of the Kind, in good fresh Ground, and by Midsummer that Year they will have shot so strong, that you may take off Buds of some sorts, and of all sorts the next Year, having in readiness some fine thriving stock against some good Wall, for that will make the fruit set the sooner when it comes to blow: At a fit Season bud these Stocks, if Pears on Quince-stocks; if Peaches, Nectrons, or Plumb, on some large white Plumb-stocks, etc. If they be Apples or Walnuts, they may be from the Wall: bud your Apples or Codlins', or Apple of Paradise (which is a sort of Dwarf-sweeting, and will grow of Cuttings; if Walnuts, on a fine Young Walnut-tree, bud it five or six foot high; this doth not only alter the Property of the Wild Kind, but it makes the Tree more Naturally bear fruit much sooner and better, if well Ordered; your Pears, Plumbs, and Peaches will bear in three or four years after, your Apples and Walnuts in five or six years after.  
I know my Lord Bacon tells you, that Peaches come best of Stones, unbudded, but I advise you to bud all you Raise of Stones, Seeds, etc. though it be to take a bud off from the same stock, and to bud it on that, as I have often done.  
Those that have great Grounds to look to, and good Ingenuity, let them but put this in Practice, and I am confident they will find great satisfaction therein, and in a little time Raise many new sorts of fruit.  
Now, the Reason why in France they Raise more Varieties of fruit and flowers than we do, is this: there are many Ingenious Men in their Monasteries, and there they being Seated as long as they Live, there they Raise many fine fruits and flowers,  
Now, if our Noble Men that take delight in Gardens, as all that are Ingenious do, would provide themselves of good Ingenious gardiner's, and allow them good Encouragement, with assurance of continuing in their Service so long as they carry themselves carefully in their Employ, and are faithful in their Place; this would certainly cause them to improve their Places, much for their Master's good and Profit, and their own Credit, or give them Patents for their Places, as His Majesty does to the Gardiner's he keeps, for which I hope none better served. A good Cook can Dress you several Dishes of Meat very well in half a day, and if one miscarry, they can in a little time make another; but the Gardener must have several Months or Years, to bring some things to Perfection; and if He miscarry, he cannot begin again when he will, but he must wait his time with Patience; therefore he ought the more to be careful.  
But for this Digression I must crave your Pardon; and thus I have showed you, that it is not the mixing of Earth with other Plants, that will make them change into such Plants as you mix the Earth with, or make the Plant alter to any purpose; for the main alteration of all Plants is from their Seed; though it may be, mixing such Plants or Shave with the Earth you sow Seed in, may cause them to have some quality of the Physical use of the Plant in them; as is the Opinion of the Learned, that Misceltoe on the Oak, and Polipody of the Oak, and Elder on the Willow, etc. do partake of the Physical uses of those Plants on which they grow: for in Nature you may find, that many Bodies do not only by their Qualities Affect their Adjacents, but also infuse their Virtue into them, and endue them with the same faculty; as the Loadstone doth not only attract Iron, but Communicates its Virtue to it, and makes it Magnetical by touching, etc.  
But I shall leave the Stones, and return to the Walnut-tree. Let your Nuts be very Ripe, and when they begin to fall, then beat the rest off from the Tree, and lay them by, that the outward Husk may Crack, then peel them, but do not wash them, for wet doth make the Kernel Crack, and Mould, and spoils it: When you have taken off the Husk, lay them thin to dry in some dry open Room, turn them sometimes with a Broom.  
When they have sweat, and are dry, about the beginning of October put them into Sand a little moist, making it a little wetter about Christmas, for than they will begin to spear, and then will digest it: Sow them not in their Husks, neither steep them, as some Advise. Set or Sow them about the latter end of January, or beginning of February, in good fresh Ground, minding the aforesaid Rules, and you shall not lose one in a hundred; and cover them about an Inch and a half, or two Inches; keep them well Weeded on their first bed, and when they have stood two Summers, then Remove them into other beds, setting them about a yard asunder, one Row from another, and about a foot and a half one from another in the Rows: Cut the Tap-root and all bruised Roots off, and the side-boughs, but cut not off the Head of a Walnut-tree.  
Keep them with digging, and hoing, and pruning up, till you have got them five or six foot high, then bud them, it will make them bear sooner, and then you are certain of a good Kind; for I presume you will not bud them with a bad Kind, if you know it.  
If you do not bud them, let them Head about six foot high a year or two, and then Remove them; but keep them not long in the open Air, for the Roots being of a spongy Nature, will take in the Air so fast, that they will soon Mould, and Kill your Tree, therefore set them as soon as you can, when once taken up.  
Remove them young off from the Seed-bed, as is before Advised; for if you let them stand to be great on the place where they were first sowed, they will be much more dangerous to Remove, and not so likely to thrive.  
The Ground they Love is a deep Soil, and of a dry Nature, on a sharp Gravel, if the Ground be shallow, they will not prosper, but if the Gravel be mixed with Loom, they will do well: They Love not a stiff Clay, but if it be mixed Naturally with stones or Chalk, and not too shallow, than they will thrive on it.  
It is a proper Tree to set in Woods, for it will run up (if the side-boughs be taken off) to a great height, and yield very good Timber for many Uses.   

CHAP. XV.  
Of Raising and Ordering the Chestnut.  
TOuching the Kind's of this Nut, there may be several, but I know but three; one of them is very good, which ought to be the more Increased.  
For the time of Gathering, Observe the same as before is said of the Walnut: When you have gathered them, and taken the Husks off, lay them to dry and sweat, but not too thick.  
Do not steep them in Water, as some Advise you, for it is not good to steep any sort of Seed, unless some Annuals, and to steep them is good, especially if lated in sowing; but to steep Stones, Nuts, or Seeds that are not of quick growth, watering them may Kill them, by making the Kernel swell too hastily, and so crack it before the spear causeth it; or it may Mould and stupefy the spear; therefore let no Seeds whatsoever, that are not quick of growth, have too much wet at first.  
You must put your Chestnuts (then) in Sand, a little moist, about the beginning or middle of November; make it a little moister about the beginning of January, and at the latter end or beginning of February sow them on beds, and cover them about two Inches, or you may set them by a Line, as you set Beans, or you may sow them in drills, as Beans, or you may sow them where you intent they shall stand; and in any of these ways or places keep them clean from Weeds the first or second year, than you may Remove them into your Nursery off from the Seed-bed: prune off the side-boughs and Roots.  
They are Subject to put forth many side-boughs near the Ground, whereby they may be increased by Laying very easily, to do which, see Chap. 5. But the best way is to Raise them of Nuts.  
Set them in Rows in your Nursery, and Order them as is showed of the Walnut.  
The Soil they Love is such as the Walnut takes delight to grow in.  
They be Excellent to set in Coppices or Woods; the Timber is very Useful, and they will grow to be large for under-wood; if the Tree be much crooked, fell it, it will yield great store of strong shoots from the stem, some of which it will be convenient to Lay, whereof you may leave some Laid to thicken the place, and others to Plant where you please, and may have great shoots from the stem for several Uses also.   

CHAP. XVI.  
Of Raising and Ordering the Sarvice-Tree.  
AS for the Kind's of the Sarvice, they may be many; there is one whose Fruit is much better than the other, but whether it is the Ground makes it so I cannot positively say. We have them grow at Hadham on very stiff Ground; the Trees bear well, and the Fruit is good: and at Cashiobury we have them on a sharp Gravel, the Fruit naught, and the Trees bear very badly.  
It may be Raised of the Seed or Stone that is in the Berries, which, when they are rotten, are then Ripe; that is, about the latter end of September, or beginning of October; eat off the Fleshy part, or rub it off by Rolling them in Sand, then dry them in the open Air, and keep them in moist Sand till the beginning of January, then sow them on moist Ground, or in the shade; keep them from weeds, then let them stand two or three Years, and then plant them in your Nursery, as you are directed for Walnut-trees, there keep them with digging and pruning till they are fit of stature to plant out; they grow in good shape, and last long: it is a fine tree for Walks, it likes best a strong ground, but let it be good, and there they will bear store of Fruit, and grow to be large, fine Trees.  
They be very subject to put forth suckers, by which they be easily increased from the Roots of the Mother-tree: but how to do that see Chapt. 7. there you may be fully satisfied how to raise them.  
When you have got them to five or six foot high, bud them; they will bear sooner, more, and better, etc.   

CHAP. XVII.  
Of Raising and Ordering the Cherrytree.  
I Know many will say, that it is not proper to rank this among Forrest-trees; but if such did but see the fine stately Trees that we have growing in the Woods at Cashiobury, they would then conclude it proper for Woods; and if for Woods then for Forests.  
Where they like the ground, they make a glorious show in the Spring, their white Blossoms showing at a distance as though they were clothed with fine white Linen; their Blossoms are a great Relief to the industrious Bees at that season: the way to raise and order them is as followeth.  
And first you must know, that the best way to raise them, is of Stones. Let your Cherries be very ripe, for the riper your Cherry is, (or any other Fruit) the plumper and better is the Kernel.  
The time they be Ripe is according to the kind, but it is the black Cherry which grows common in Woods and Hedges about Cashiobury, which is the Tree fitting for Woods, and therefore how to Raise it I shall show, though there be much difference in these also; for we have some full as large and good as the crown, and at a place called Red-heath, at one Mr. Baldwins, they have some sorts not inferior to the black Orleans, which are produced naturally from the Stones, without Budding or Grafting, or any other help but the Nature of the Ground, which indeed is very natural to them.  
They are ripe in July, and the largest sorts are ripe latest; the Fowls of the Air will give you notice of their time of being Ripe, by their visiting them, which are as so many Messengers to awaken the industrious to take care in time to preserve them; and to the careless man and Sluggard, to take that away from him which he will not take care of: For, as the wisest of men saith, Prov. 20. The Sluggard will not plow by reason of cold, therefore shall he beg in Harvest; so he that will not take care in time, shall want when others have. But we have such store, that what the Jackdaws, Jays, Mag-pies, etc. eat, they are not miss with us; and though the Fowls do begin to eat them as soon as they turn blackish, yet Nature hath tied them on so fast to the stalk, that they can but take off part of the flesh, and leave the Stone and rest to feed the Kernel; for the wonderful wise God hath ordered most sorts of Fruit so, that some by their bitter, sour, or other tastes, are so well defended, that neither Bird nor Beast will touch them till the Kernels be ripe, or near it, and then the fleshy part and Kernels also are pleasing to their Palates.  
When the Fruit is Ripe gather them, and have the fleshy part eaten off, or taken off, by rolling them in Sand that is dry, with some heavy Plank upon them, drawing it too and again to take off the flesh; when you have so done, dry them for three or four days, than put them into pretty moist Sand, and so keep them till the beginning of February in house, and then sow them in a Bed of light gravelly Mould; if your Bed be not naturally so, make it so; keep them clean from weeds for two years, and then you may plant them in Woods, Coppices, Hedge-rowes, etc. or in your Nursery, to raise other Kind's of, or there to stand till they be fit for walks; for where the Ground is Natural, they be very proper for walks. The ground they like, is a dry Soil, the bottom Gravel, the surface mixed with Loom.  
Or you may sow them on Beds as soon as you have taken the flesh off, and they will do very well, and come up the Spring following, and then you may plant them at two years shoot, where you please; but if you keep them too long out of the Ground before you sow them, they will lie two Winters in the ground before they come up.  
Note this, that all sorts of Stone-fruit would be committed to the Earth as soon as the Fruit is Ripe, the Flesh taken off, and the Stones a little dry: for all sorts of Stone-fruit, if well kept, and sown or set in time, will come up the Spring after, but if you keep them too long out of the Ground, they then will stay till the second Spring, and sometimes never come up at all.  
At any time when you Remove a young Cherrytree, you may prune off his head close, if you please, to one shoot; for they Naturally grow taper and strait: They are subject to increase from the Roots of another Tree, but if you would help Nature in Raising of them that way, see Chap. 7.  
It is a good wood to plant in Coppices, for it produceth a strong shoot, and it is (like the Elm) apt to put forth several young Trees from the Roots of other Trees; but especially if you fell a tree that is not too Old, and it be in a light Ground: for than it will bring many from the Roots of one tree, and so thicken your wood much. It produceth great Trees in a light ground, that being the Soil it liketh; but in a stiff cold Ground it is not so ready to grow, nor bring such fine high taper-trees, nor increase so from the Roots, as it will on light ground. Once I measured a Cherrytree in Cashiobury Wood-walk, first by the Quadrant, and so I found it 85 foot high; but for more Exactness (being the Tree leaned, by reason of another which was blown upon it by a high wind,) I saw it measured by a Line let from the top-shoot to the Ground, and it was 85 foot five Inches, therefore I think such trees as this might well be accounted among Forrest-trees.  
When you transplant young Cherry trees, do not set them too deep; nor indeed no other sort of tree, but especially those that naturally run shallow, as all sorts do that be subject to put forth young Trees from their Roots, such is the Elm, Abele, Sarvice, Cherry, etc. This tree is wanting in several parts of this Land: But you that want it, I would counsel you to get it as soon as your Ground is convenient for it.   

CHAP. XVIII.  
Of Raising and Ordering the Linetree.  
THis Tree is called by most Herbals the Linetree; or Linden, but vulgarly the Limetree: But call it which you please, for I shall not trouble myself with the Etymology of the Name.  
Of this Tree there are but two Kind's, that I know, one of which is the broad-leaved, and this shoots with a stronger shoot than the other; the broad-leaved one is much to be preferred before the other, for the aforesaid Reasons, and several others: of the broad-leaved Line we have had, of late years, several trees from Holland.  
I have raised several hundreds of Seeds of this sort. The narrow-leaved Line grows plentifully in several places of this Land, as in several of my Lords Woods in Essex: This latter is harder to remove with good success than the former: the Reason is, because it hath not been so much used to be transplanted, therefore not so certain to grow as the great-leaved; according to our old Proverb, Use makes Perfectness.  
Some Authors tell you, that they are Male and Female, but there is no such thing in Plants; for both these Kind's bear seed, but it ripens not every year with us in England.  
You may raise this fine Tree by Seed or by Laying, either way with great facility, and great Increase: But of this, as of all other Trees, to raise them of Seed is the best way: For my Honourable Lord, and the Honourable Sir Henry Capel, have seen such difference between those raised of Seed, and those of Layers, that when they were Trees of eight or ten years' growth, they have often told me which was raised from Seed, and which from a Layer; for that raised from seed, much outgrowes the other, and keeps its Taper-shape for several years after they be planted out in Walks: The taperness of the Seed-tree makes it grow as strait as an Arrow; but this I advise you, that when you gather the Seed, you mind to gather it off from some of the broad-leaved Line-trees, and of those that shoot with a strong shoot: But as I told you before, the Seeds do not ripen every year with us; but you may know that, by cracking the husk or shell of the seed: for if the Seed be good, it will lie plump and full under the husk, the body white, if you by't it in two. But if the year be not kind for the Seed, most of the Husks or Seed-vessels will have nothing but a little chaffy substance in them, and some few will have some small lank seeds in them.  
But to our Purpose▪ to raise them of Seeds, let your Seed be very Ripe, which will be in October, gather it in a dry day, and after you have dried it about a week in an open Room, than put it in a Couch of Sand, indifferent moist, so let it be kept till about the middle of February, then sow it under some Wall, on the North or Westside, in some good, fresh, Loomy ground, rather strong than light; if there come a dry Spring or Summer, keep them indifferent moist, and stick some Boughs over them, to shade them from the scorching Sun, especially if they be much exposed to it; keep them clean from weeds there let them stand two Summers, and afterwards you may transplan them into your Nursery, and set them in Rows, as you are directed of the Walnut and other Trees before. Prune them up to one shoot, unless you find some shoot or shoots that are fit to Lay, and then, if you would increase a Stock, Lay them. This tree is very apt to put forth shoots a little above the ground, and Suckers a little within, so that it is very readily increased by Laying: Lay your Layers betimes, any time between Midsummer and November, as they be strong and fit to Lay: And in a Twelvemonths time or little more, they will have drawn Root fit to be transplanted into a Nursery: Thus by seed and Layers you may in a little time increase enough for a County, which when you come to have great store, you may plant some of your crookedest Layers in your Woods; they will produce a large Stub, strong shoots, grow well almost of any Ground, and are very good Firewood.  
It is a Tree that loves pruning up well, for it naturally grows taper, especially those which come of Seed; but if it shoot much, and thrives apace in your Nursery, then leave some side-boughs to check the Sap▪ lest by forcing it all into the Head, it shoot out so much there, that it make the head too big for the Body, and so (being top-heavy) make the Tree crooked: Now if ever you see your Trees in such a Condition, then immediately cut off the leaning side of the Head, which when it is lightened of its heaviness, and hath not long stood crooked, it will then come strait again; Midsummer time is the time of this pruning, but do not force the Sap too much into the head, lest by high winds you have many of your Heads broke off. But of this I have spoken before.  
My ingenious Lord was once too free in pruning up a parcel of those Trees; which I the rather acquaint you with, that you hereafter may avoid the like; for the Ground was fresh and good, so that some by their great Heads lost them, and some grew crooked: But despair not, for if you observe what I have said before to make a crooked Tree strait, you may easily bring them to be strait again, for they naturally delight to grow as strait as most trees do; and if the Head should be broken off, (as very seldom it is, because the Bark is so tough) they will yet shoot with such a strong shoot, that they will in a little time make a fine Tree again.  
You may (if occasion be) transplant them pretty large, as big as your Leg, but the surest size is about two Inches Diameter, and eight or ten foot high.  
But if the Tree was never Removed from the place where it was first sowed, then Remove it the sooner; for if it be great, there's the more danger in Removing it, and the topping of the Roots when removed young, makes it break out near home, with many young feeding Roots like a Maple: Therefore my advice to you that take delight to raise Trees, is, to transplant any sort of Tree while young, and to top the Roots a very little; they will be much the better, and certainer to grow when they are again removed, and will come forward much the better: They that take this Advice, will find the profit of it in Trees, which will the better encourage the practice of it.  
They will grow as well on any sort of Ground, as any Tree I know, but they like best a feeding Loomy Ground, which is not too wet, as is before said in Chap. 8. where I have spoke somewhat of this fine Tree, for Walks, Avenues or Lawns; This being a Tree I fancy for the aforesaid uses, before any Tree we have in England, though I know many do not love it that are Planters, because it is not good Timber; and I grant it is not, but to vindicate what I have said of it for Walks, I shall lay down these following Reasons.  
1. I do suppose with myself, that whosoever is a Lover of Walks, will not fallen the Timber-trees in a stately Walk, while the Timber is in its prime; for most Trees will continue many years very Ornamental, after they be in their prime, even while they be fit for no use but Fire wood; and why not the Line then for Walks as well as any sort of Timber trees?  
2. It will grow as well on different Grounds as any Tree I know, which is a considerable encouragement to the ingenious Planters, to see their Labours prosper.  
3. It will grow as great and as high, if kept with pruning up, as most Trees we have: For the Greatness of it, I shall borrow the words of the Learned Dr. Brown, which he writ to Esquire Evelyn, as he hath it in his Discourse of Forrest-trees: Chap. 29. pag. 82. His words are these: An extraordinary Large and Stately Tilia, Linden or Linetree there groweth at Depenham in Norfolk, ten miles from Norwich, whose Measure is this: The Compass in the least part of the Trunk or Body, about two yards from the Ground, is at least eight yards and a half; about the Root nigh the Earth, sixteen yards in circuit, the height to the uppermost Boughs about thirty yards, etc. This is one of the Broad-leaved Lines, which how great and stately they grow, you may observe out of this wise and learned Doctor's Discourse, who commends this Tree with the Epithets of Large and Stately.  
4. It will last sound long, as appeareth by the Greatness of its growing.  
5. It is a Tree will soon grow over the places where you cut off side boughs, and is not subject to put forth many.  
6. It is a Tree that naturally groweth taper and strait.  
7. No Tree keeps such a constant Pyramid-shape as this; the Heads of other Trees growing of several shapes and Forms, though all of one Kind, this keeps its Head as if it were cut, and the Body strait.  
8. For Shade few better, having a thick Head, and large Leaves, only it droppeth his Leaves too soon.  
9 The Bark of this Tree being tough, keeps its Head from breaking off by great Winds.  
10. It's a Tree that as seldom blows aside as any Tree whatsoever, for its matted Root and Taper-body preserve him upright all his Life-time.  
11. The Flowers are beautiful, the scent counted healthful, and breaketh out strangely on the side of the Leaves, much different from other Flowers of Trees or Plants.  
12. The shoots being of a fine red glossie colour, are very pleasing to behold in the Winter-season.  
13. It is a Tree that seldom grows hollow in the Body, for it soon overgroweth the wound, and so keeps himself sound, both Body and Limb.  
14. It is the best wood for Carving that is known.  
15. At last when he is dead, his Bark will make you Mats and Ropes, useful for several things.  
16. And lastly, its Wood is a good, sweet, free-burning Firewood: the Charcoal made of it, is commended before all others for Gunpowder.  
Now put all these together, and judge if this be not a fine Tree for Walks; but if you would have them shape themselves finely, set them two rod asunder; if for a shady walk, what distance you please.  
I fancy that a single Row, to bond a Lawn round, set two or three Rod asunder, would be mighty obliging to the Noblest Sense, for than they would show themselves more clearly than when set in double Rows to make Walks; or they would show mighty well set thin on the side-of a Hill, one topping another, with their curious natural shapes. And so adieu my beloved Line-trees.  
If treating of the Line I've wrote amiss,  
I'll thank you if you'll show wherein it is;  
But if you meet with any thing done well,  
Say nothing on't, but study to excel,   

CHAP. XIX.  
Of Raising and Ordering the Maple.  
THE Maple-tree is very plentiful in most places of England where there are any Hedges or Woods; but as for the Kind's, I know but one sort, though Authors tell you of more.  
It is increased, and doth increase itself by Seed and Layers, and from the Roots of Mother Old Trees, and by Suckers, which makes it so plentiful.  
The Seeds will lie a year in Ground before they come up, therefore you may order them as is before said of the Ash; you may increase it by Laying (as is directed in Chap. 5.) for to thicken your Woods or Hedges; but if you let it grow into Trees, it destroys the Wood under it; for it receives a clammy Honey-dew on its Leaves, which when it is washed off by Rains, and falls upon the Buds of those Trees under it, its Clamminess keeps those Buds from opening, and so by degrees kills all the wood under it: therefore suffer not high Trees or pollard's to grow in your Hedges, but fell them close to the ground, and so it will thicken your Hedge, and not spoil its Neighbours so much.  
You may increase it from the Roots of an older Tree, as is showed in Chap. 7. It is a good Wood to plant for under-wood in Coppices and Woods, for it produceth a good shoot, and thickens your Woods. it loves a dry Ground or Bank best.   

CHAP. XX.  
The Raising and Ordering the Sycamore.  
THis fine Tree is much out of Favour with a great many, for these Reasons, viz. Because the Leaves falling upon their Walks, turn into Soil soon, and so spoil them, breeding Grass, and Weeds.  
And also that notwithstanding its fine shade, it is not good to plant them near Dwelling-houses; for the Leaves in Summertime being subject to catch and hold the Honey-dew, do draw together several sorts of Flies, and (some say) amongst them the Moth: if so, they be not fit to be planted near Houses and Gardens: the same fault hath the King of Trees, the never enough admired Oak, and the Maple and others.  
But granting this, yet let me desire those that have Woods and Coppices in Parks, where Deer are especially, to set some of this Tree every Fall, in the open places, and that for these Reasons: First, it is a wood the Deer will not soon harm, than it is a wood that bears Keys soon, and many, which will fall Early and come up the next Spring; and being armed with a large Leaf, the weeds will not soon choke them: On some Grounds that are dry and light, it groweth fast: It produceth tall, tough and good Timber for several uses: It groweth apace from a Stub, and is good Firewood.  
It may be raised of Seed, which is best, or by Laying, or by Roots: Sow the Seed (not on too wet or stiff Ground) as soon as it is Ripe, and the next Spring it will come up; whereby on a little Ground you may raise a great many Plants to set in your Nursery; keeping them clean from weeds by digging and pruning up every year, till you have got them big enough for Walks, Woods, or what you please. Thus much at this time of the Sycamore, only remember (as I said before) that it is a good wood to plant in Coppices and Woods.   

CHAP. XXI.  
Of Raising and Ordering the Hornbeam.  
I Told you but now of the Sycamore being fit to be set in Parks, because Deer do not often Bark them; but of all Trees that I know for that purpose, this is the best; for a Deer will starve before he will so much as taste the Bark of the Hornbeam, they do not love much the very small tops.  
This Tree may be raised of Seed, or by Laying; but by Seed is best, though the young Seedlings be tender. The Seeds may be sown at the time directed for the Ash; for it lieth a year in the Ground before it comes up, and then you must look to keep it well shaded, or else it will sooner be gone than you think for: It naturally loveth to grow on stiff ground, where it will grow, and bring great Lops to the Owner, when the Tree is but a very Shell, as indeed most Old Trees are hollow within; which I judge not to be the Nature of the Tree so to grow, but the fault of those that look to them; for they have too many Masters which be bad Husbands, and no Friends to this Tree and many others, as the Elm, Ash, etc. who let the Lordship's be great before they lop them, perswadeing themselves that they have more great wood, which is most useful, never considering that great lops do endanger the Life of the Tree, or at best wound it so much, that many Trees decay more yearly in their Bodies, than the yearly lops come to; and so indeed they do provide themselves with more great wood, though it be much to the Owners loss; though this Tree will bear great Lops when there is nothing but a shell of a Tree standing, yet the Ash (if once come to take wet much at the Head) it rarely bears more Lop after that the Body of the Tree decays: Therefore if once a Tree decays much at the middle, it will soon be little worth else but for the Fire: But in case you find a Timber tree decay (as is aforesaid) down with it in time, for fear you lose your Timber, and also the Firewood be spoilt; but of this I have spoken before, and would also speak more, could I with words but persuade men out of this great Error: But our ordinary Husbandmen will vindicate Their Countrey-Husbandry to be better than the next, for indeed Countries do differ much in the ordering of Trees and Hedges, and they as much condemn ours: for it is as hard to persuade them out of their self-conceited Opinion and Tradition, as it is to make a Jew turn Christian.  
This tree makes the very best Hedges of any Tree we have in England that sheds the leaves, (I mean for Ornament:) for you may keep it in what form you please, and it will grow very thick to the very Ground; Therefore to make a private Walk, or to sense in Avenues, at a convenient distance, without the bound-Range of Trees, or Walks; or to hedge in Ridings, Causewayes, or to make close Walks or Arbours, this Tree is much to be commended; especially on such ground which it likes: You may be better satisfied about this Tree at Hampton-Court, in his Majesty's Garden, which is kept by the ingenious Artist and my good Friend Mr. Tobias Gatts: It is good Firewood, and yieldeth good Increase both from Stubs and pollard's.  
It increaseth much by sowing itself, therefore you that love planting get a few into your Plantations, and try whether they will thrive with you or not; which doubtless it will on many Grounds where now it is not, and so would many other Trees do mighty well in Woods and Coppices, to thicken them, and make them the more beautiful, especially those that increase from the running Roots, as the Noble Elm, Cherry, Sarvice, Abel, Poplar, etc. and some others, for to seed if you have them not, as Ash, Sycamore, Line, Hornbeam, Maple, Quickbeam, etc. and with those which you see thrive best, you may at every Fall furnish your woods where they be thin, and I do assure you it will pay you for your pains with Interest.   

CHAP. XXII.  
Of Raising the Quickbeam.  
THE Quickbeam, Whitchen, or Wild-ash, though very scarce in the South parts of this Land, is pretty plentiful in some parts of the North, as in Nottinghamshire, etc. and would be there more plentiful, were it suffered to grow great, to bear the greater Quantity of Seed; for I think it increaseth (as the Ash doth) only from seed: It produceth strait, small and long shoots, which in that Country they cut off while they are young, to make Goads (as they call them) or Whips to drive their Oxen with, for it is as tough a Wood as most is.  
I do guess the seeds lie a year in the Ground before they come up, I am now about trying to raise some. Let me desire some kind Planters to get some of this Wood into their bounds, where it is not, that it may be tried whether it will grow in the South or not, as no doubt but it will if you will but try: I shall say no more of this Tree, because I cannot yet speak much on my own Knowledge.   

CHAP. XXIII.  
Of Raising the Birch.  
THis Tree increaseth froom the Roots or Suckers, and for aught I know it may be raised of Seeds; for I do suppose there are Seeds in that which it sheds in the Spring, though I have not yet tried.  
It delights to grow on your hungry Gravel, as it doth about Cashicbury in several Woods: Therefore you that have barren Ground where your Woods be, get some sets of this Wood, to help to thicken your Woods; for though it be one of the worst of Woods, yet it is very useful, and the great God hath ordered it to be contented with the worst of Grounds; and besides, that it should not be despised by his Servants, he hath endowed it with a Faculty of Attracting and preparing from the Earth a very Medicinal Liquor, which is both pleasant and healthful for man; which to take from the Tree, and also to prepare this Water, and to demonstrate what Diseases it is good for, I shall make bold to borrow out of Esquire evelyn's Discourse of Forrest-trees, pag. 32, etc.  
About the beginning of March, with a Chisel and a Mallet cut a slit, almost as deep as the very Pith, under some Bough or Branch of a well-spreading Birch: Cut it oblique, and not long-ways, inserting a small Stone or Chip to keep the Lips of the Wound a little open; fasten thereto a Bottle, or some other convenient Vessel appendent; out of this Aperture will extill a limphid and clear water, retaining an obscure smack both of the Taste and Odour of the Tree: thus may you obtain this water. I will present you a Receipt how to make it, as it was sent me by a fair Lady (saith he.)  
To every Gallon of Birch-water put a quart of Honey well stilled together, then boil it almost an hour with a few Cloves, and a little Limon-peel, keeping it well scummed; when it is sufficiently boiled, and become cold; add to it three or four Spoonfuls of good Ale, to make it work, which it will do like New Ale, and when the Yeast begins to settle, bottle it up as you do other winey Liquors, it will in a competent time become a most brisk and spirituous Drink, which is a very powerful Opener. This Wine may (if you please) be made as successfully with Sugar instead of Honey, lib. 1. to each Gallon of water; or you may dulcify it with Raisins, and compose a Raison-wine of it. I know not whether the Quantity of the sweet Ingredients might not be somewhat Reduced, and the Operation improved, but I give it as Received.  
For Distempers in Man it is good for Cure of the Ptysick, most powerful for dissolving the Stone in the Bladder, curing (as I am told) Consumptions, and such interior Diseases as accompany the Stone in the Bladder and Reins: This Liquor is so strong that the common sort of Stone-Bottles cannot preserve the Spirits, so subtle they are and volatile; and yet it is gentle and very harmless in Operation within the Body, and exceedingly sharpens the Appetite being drunk ante Pastum. This from the Learned Author, and thus much of the Birch: And now I proceed.   

CHAP. XXIV.  
Of Raising the Hazel.  
OF the Kind's there be many, and some very good Fruit, as the Red and White filberts; the great French Nut, etc. also your wild Nuts do differ much in shape and goodness. My Lord had once a Quantity of very good sorts sent him from beyond Sea, they had a very tender Shell; therefore I took care to raise some of them, and did several, but when they came to bear, they were no better than our Hedge-nuts.  
When they be Ripe I need not tell you, for every Boy can; order them all winter as you are advised to keep your Walnuts, and sow them at the same time in the Spring; they will grow almost on any Ground, (provided not too wet) but best on your dry ground: therefore set them on your high and dry Banks, between your Fences, but Early in Winter: if they hold but the first year, they will produce good Stubs; you may increase them by Suckers, or Laying, but the best way is from their Nuts. I would have you to benefit yourself by Laying this and other Woods in your Woods, that be thin of wood: I dare assure you that for every Shilling you lay out in this Husbandry, in a few Years time every Shilling shall be paid you yearly, for many years after.   

CHAP. XXV.  
Of Raising the several sorts of Poplers.  
THere may be many sorts of this Wood, but I know but Four; the best is that large, white Poplar; a great leaf white on the lower side, it shoots with a strong whitish shoot, which the Dutch call Abele.  
The Second is a sort much like to this, both in Leaf and Shoot, which grows in many places of this Land, and is in most places called the white Poplar.  
The Third is a sort that hath the leaves and shoots more small, and not so white; it groweth in many places, and in most of them is called the Aspen or Asp-tree: These three sorts are to be ordered all as one: the other differs much both in the Nature of growing and ordering: therefore a word or two of these.  
I never yet did Raise any of them of Seed, but I do believe they have a Seed in that downy substance they shed in the Spring; they increase naturally very much from the Roots, but they may be helped much by the Rules in the Chapter before, which showeth you how to raise Trees from the Roots of another Tree; by which Rules, from two of the Abele Trees my Lord had from Holland, I have raised above a hundred: But if you fence in a place round the Tree, to keep cattle off, and keep down the great weeds a little, they will put forth many young Trees from the Roots of an old one, especially if you prune up, or thin the Heads of any of these sorts, they will then yield the more; but if you do not value your Mother-tree, but desire to get a great stock of young ones, than you may fallen the Mother-tree at the ground: and if it be not very young, or old, the Roots will put forth in young Trees, the Quantity of the Body and Head of that Tree: and so will the Elm, Cherry, etc. then how useful such Trees are to set in the places of Woods that be thin, I leave you to judge.  
Though this Tree is none of the best of Woods, besides the aforesaid Properties, I can satisfy you it will grow and increase on the very worst of your grounds, as well dry as wet.  
You must forbear to head any of these three sorts, unless young, or that you leave some young shoots to draw up the sap; except you are minded to destroy the old one you head; for if the Lops be very great it many times kills, or makes the Tree hollow; therefore lop young. Some will tell you they grow of Chips, but that is false, they rarely will grow of Cuttings.  
They are best in Woods, though some advise you to plant them in Walks; but they be not good for walks, for the Suckers they produce from the Roots, will be troublesome: The greater sorts are proper to set on the East, West, or North Prospect, at a distance, in or by the side of a wood; for their white Leaves show finely when the Sun shines upon them, and make fine variety with other Trees that have dark green leaves. I commend them to you for to plant in woods of barren ground; for there they increase much, and yield much wood: And so I leave them, and come to the other, which differeth from these both in Leaf and Shoot, and manner of growing.  
This last kind is in most places called the water-Popler; its Leaf is a pale Green, shaped something like the other, but it is not white below; the shoot is of a yellowish green, this loves to grow by Rivers sides, or in Ground that is wet, or such as holds water much: Therefore you that have such Grounds, get some of this Tree to set in them: It will grow of Truncheons from two foot long to eight: the first being the best to set for Stubs, the other you may make pollard's of, for it is a good profitable wood, bringing a good Lop in few years, and that on some Grounds better than the Willow.  
For your instruction in setting the small sets, see Chap. 6. and for setting those of six, seven, eight or nine foot long, for to make Pollard-trees, keep the lower end of your set, and also the upper, free from cracks, and cut each sloping off; as for the bigness, let it be about two or three Inches Diameter: If you make your hole with an Iron Crow, make it big enough, that you do not thrust up the Bark when you thrust them into the hole; or if you make them with a Stake, observe the same; but if you fear the Bark to part from the wood, tie it about the lower end with a piece of Wier, etc. set them about one foot and a half deep; if great, deeper; or if you have a quantity to set, and would set them well, then have an Auger made, somewhat like to a Pumps, a little bigger than your sets, so may you set your sets in, and ram the Earth close to them; but however you set them, be sure to Ram the Earth close to them: I prefer the beginning of Winter for the best season, unless your Ground be very wet, then defer it till February.  
But if you have ground that is wet and barren, and that you are minded to plant, make Dreins two spade-deep, and a yard wide, and at every two yards asunder cast up the Earth upon the two yards of ground you left, and sow it the first year with Oats, to mellow the Ground, which may pay a good part of your Charge, if not all; the next Winter set it with these sorts of woods, Water-popler and others, Alder, Willow, Withy, Sallows, etc. and in four or five years after you may have a good Fall of wood, so may you have every five or six year after, for many years.  
To encourage you, Esquire Evelin tells you of an Abele that did shoot in one year seventeen foot in length, and as thick as your Wrist; and also informs you of some Willows that have shot no less than twelve foot in one year. Therefore to those Gentlemen that have wet or moorish Ground, which is bad and will not graze well, do I direct this good Husbandry, especially where wood is scarce, and fells well: The Charge to do this will not be great; and to satisfy you the more, I shall here show you, if you dig two spade deep, then there will be but one third part of ground to dig; that is, to dig your Trenches one yard wide, and leave two yards there to lay the Earth, and to sow one year, or to set the sets as soon as you have made the ground ready.  
160 Rod in one Acre, divided by 3 gives one 3 d. of 160, which is 53 and ⅓. This 53 doubled (neglecting the ⅓ as needless in such a business) is 106; Now if I allow 3 d. a Rod for one spade-deep, that is 6 d. for two; and then 2 d. a Rod for setting, is 8 pence the Rod, leaving the Sets out, and not counting them, because I do not know the scarceness or plentifulness of them where you intent to plant, though they will cost but little: Now if I divide 106 by 2, being 2 Six pences is one Shilling, it gives 53 s. and then divide 106 by 6, being 6 Two pences makes One shilling is 17 s. 8. d. By this it appeareth, that if the Ground be planted this way, having the Trenches digged two foot deep, which is the best way to plant any sort of Ground if the soil be shallow, (as I shall show fuller hereafter) the Charge (excepting the Sets) is but 3 l. 10 s. 8 d. where men can dig such ground for 3 d. the Rod.  
But if the Ground be not very wet, or the soils surface very shallow, then may you dig one yard, and leave another, throwing half your Earth on one side, and half on the other: Suppose you were to plant an Acre of Ground this way, there will not be half digged, especially if the ground be an oblong square; but if you count it at half, that is 80 Rod, which at the same price, 3 d. the Rod, is 20 s. for if you divide 80 Threepences by Four, (the Thirds in a Shilling) the Quotient gives 20: then 80 Twopences for setting is 13 s. 4 d. for if you divide 80 by 6, (the Twopences in one Shilling) it gives 13 in the Quotient and 2 over, which 2 Twopences is 4 d. that is then 13 s. 4 d. and 20 s. is one pound 13 s. 4 d. charge. Yet as I told you, the more oblong the piece is, it will cost somewhat the less, provided you divide your ground into yards, or as near it as you can, and leave a yard next the side where you begin, and one at the side where you end.  
Having showed you the Charge, or pretty near it, and also two ways how to prepare your ground, you may set Truncheons of Water-popler, all sorts of Sallowes, Alder, Willows, Oziers', &c. of Roots, Abele, Poplar, and if not too wet, Elm, Ash, etc. Let none of these soft woods stand too long unlopt if pollard's, or unfelled if Stubs, for the Reasons before mentioned. Of all the Poplers, Water-popler endures best lopping when great, than the Abele, the Asp worst when the boughs be great: This Water-popler doth not increase of a Runner as the other doth; I suppose this is the same which some call the Black-popler: It grows in several places about Ware, by their Ditch-sides, and brings them good profit; and therefore you that have wet grounds get some of this to set by your Ditches, one Row of this, and one of Willows; for if you set one of these worth a halfpenny, if they grow they will bring you that yearly for twenty years or more. Prune all soft woods at the latter end of Winter, etc.   

CHAP. XXVI.  
Of Raising the Alder.  
THis Tree may be raised of Truncheons as the other I last writ of; some say of Seeds, but if you cut them about two foot and a half long, and set them two foot in the ground, if the ground be proper for them they will certainly grow, and yield you good Profit. They love a wet moorish ground, and will not grow on dry ground; they will grow well on your boggy Grounds, which seldom yield good Grass.  
Some advise you to fallen them every third or fourth year, which is good Counsel: but do not defer above five or six years, the wounded place will be too great if you stay longer, and with wet will grow hollow (if it be great) before it can overgrow the wound. As for soft Woods, or Aquatic Trees, fell or lop none till to wards the Spring, viz. February is the best Season, and the Moon increasing.   

CHAP. XXVII.  
Of Raising the Withy, Willows, Sallow, Oziers'.  
THE Withy doth best grow on ground that is not very moist, but yet the moisture must not be far from him; as on the weeping side of a Hill, where some Spring breaks out, or on Banks by Rivers or Ditches sides, or on Banks in your Moorish ground, etc.  
The Willow loves to grow on such like ground; both this and the former are set in such places as the Water-popler is, and of such sets as it is; to make Pollard trees, see the Chapt. before of the Water-popler, and Chap. 6. which teacheth how to set all sorts of Cuttings; Remember to keep them well fenced for two or three years, and to cut off all the side-shoots, which they will be subject to put out below the Head, and thin the head as you see it convenient, leaving not above six or eight for Arms; so doing will make the body of your Tree swell, and lay hold on the Ground the better.  
And as for the variety of Kind's of these and the following, I shall not trouble myself to inquire after; for I intent only to show you how to Raise them, not to describe them, and if you know how to raise some, you may then soon be able to raise them all: But there is one sort more which is called the smelling Willow, which deserves to be taken notice of; it shoots a great shoot, bears fine, broad, shining, green Leaves, and will grow on most Grounds that are not too dry. It bears a sweet beautiful Flower, and worthy to be set in Orchards: You that have Rivers run by your Orchards plant some of this, if you have not, yet if your ground be moist, and pretty good, it will grow mightily, and yield Ornament and Profit.  
It is easily increased of Cuttings, which if set as is showed in Chap. 6. will grow every one: Only mind if your Ground have a dry Bottom, than set them on the North side of a wall; beside the Beauty and Smell, the industrious Bees love it much: It is as easily increased as any Sallow, and bears as good a Lop, then endeavour to make it as common. From one small Plant I have Raised some hundreds, and have set several in our Wood-walks at Cashiobury, where they grow well notwithstanding our dry Ground, but they were Rooted before I set them there: I commend the like Husbandry to the Lovers of Planting: And to those that are Lovers of that busy Martial Creature, for it's an Early Relief to them. It may also be very plentifully increased by Laying, for if it be but covered with ground, it will Root.  
Of Sallows there be three common sorts; all of them love a moist Ground, but that with the Round Leaf will grow on Banks, as in Hedges; for if you set them for Stakes they will take root: And though they be no very good Fence, yet they will yield good Profit: The two other grow best on Moorish ground, and there will yield great shoots, they will grow of Cuttings much, and may be increased well by Laying; both which ways you may thicken your Woods very much: but than you must keep out cattle, especially all Deer, for two or three years and above. They may be raised by seed, as the Elm is, some years, for the seed is not all years good with us, no more is the Elm and Line: I have raised many of them of seeds in the downy substance, but they be so easily increased by Cuttings and Laying, that you need not trouble yourself to raise them of seed. It is as profitable a wood for under-wood in Woods, as any you can set in them for Fire, producing strong and great shoots: Therefore, where you stock up Trees in your Woods, set two or three Sallow Truncheons with some other Wood that is subject to run, as Elm, Cherry, Abele, etc. so may you have a thin wood made a thick good wood; or if you have a Ground that is Moorish, and will not yield good Grass, then plant (as is before showed) of the Water-popler, and it will yield you quick and great Profit.  
If you would see more largely of these Sallowes, etc. see Esquire evelyn's 19 th' Chapt. He tells you, you may graft Figs and Mulberries on them, and that they will thrive exceedingly: The first is true, you may graft on them; but you had best try the other, for I fear 'tis borrowed from Pliny, etc. but I forbear.  
Of Oziers' there are several sorts, and are all raised of Truncheons, as the Sallow: They love a moister and more Moorish ground than the Sallow or Willow. The Basket-makers know best the time to fallen them, which may be done any time in Winter, they must be kept well fenced from cattle, and thus I shall conclude of the Aquatic Trees.  
Only let me desire all those that have Moorish ground, and such as yields little Profit, (especially where wood is scarce,) but to make use of these sure Directions, and I do engage you a great and certain Profit.   

CHAP. XXVIII.  
Of the Pine, Fir, Pinaster, etc.  
THese stately Trees want more Respect with us than they have: And there are three things which make it so: The first is Ignorance in planting them; and that is, they miss the right Time or Season of the Year to set them, planting them when other Trees are planted, as from November to March, which is the very worst time in the Year; but the best time to Remove these or most sorts of Greene's, is, from mid- March to the latter end, or from mid- August to the last, which are the very best times, unless for tender Greene's, and I shall not so much as name any of them.  
As to the Ground, they love not Dung, but a fresh gravelly Soil mixed with Loom, also mind but the Roots, and they will tell you, that these sorts of Trees must not be set too deep, therefore take heed you commit not that fault to them; for if you look into Gerrard's Herbal, with Jonson's Additions to it, pag. 1364. you are there informed by that laborious Author, that Firres grow on the tops of Rocks in great plenty, and also large Trees in the cold Countries of Norway, etc. and of Pines that grow in the cold Countries beyond Denmark, as in Russia, etc. then certainly they may and will grow here in England very well, if you will but mind to set and preserve them.  
Then a second Reason why men do raise but few of these, and plant but few, may be because they love them not; and it is with other men, because they many times die, or do not grow well with them, and this makes them not fancy them: But such Men want good Instructions, and I hope I shall give them some that will make them again in Charity with these fine Trees; but others there be that have ground and fit places to plant Trees in, but mind them not; these men do not love Trees, no nor themselves, nor their Posterity.  
The third great hindrance of planting these and other Trees is, there are many men that love planting and improving of Trees, but are hindered by not having ground of their own convenient to plant in, and if they Nurse up or plant Trees for their Landlords, they many times meet with but small encouragement for so doing; for many times they be turned out of their Farm before they come to perfection, or if there be any that are come to be fit to fallen, many times another man shall have them as cheap as he that Nursed them up in his Hedgerows, etc. or his Predecessors.  
But I could and do wish that Owners would encourage their Tenants, by allowing them so much Money for every Fruit-tree, and so much for every Forrest-tree they plant in their Grounds, and look to them well till they be passed Cattles spoiling them; this would help both the Owner and his Tenant, and many a good Tree might be in waste places where now none is; this would make the Farm much better, and pleasanter, and so we might have more plenty of Fruit and Timber, and Knowledge in Planting would be greatly improved.  
Now suppose you should plant on good Land, and in open Fields, you would be no Loser by it: As if you should plant Oak, Ash, or Elm, in Pasture-ground, at three or four Rod asunder, they would do your Land no harm, nor would you lose any ground, save only just where the Trees stand; now it must be a good Tree that takes up one yard square, nay the Leaves and Shade may do your cattle as much good as may countervail the loss of that Land; as if your Land be worth 20 s. an Acre, that is not a Penny a Yard, as here I shall show; 160 Rod square makes an Acre, and five yards and a half square is a Rod.  
You see that in one Rod square there are 30 yards and a quarter; for the Decimal Fraction 25 is ¼ of a 100; or thus, 5 times 5 is 25, and 5 halfs and 5 halfs make 5 whole Rod, and a half and a half make but ¼, which is 30 yards and a quarter.  
Here you see that 4840 (the yards in one Acre) divided by 12, (the Pence in a Shilling) gives 403 shillings, and 4 remain, that is, one Acre at a Penny a yard comes to 20 l. 3 s. 4 d. But it may be sixty years before a Tree takes up so much ground, then at half that Age it takes up but half so much ground, than 60 halfpences is but 2 s. 6 d. and your Tree at that Age, and on such Land, may be worth 30 s. or more, which is Profit and Pleasure, &c to the Planter.  
But to our business, Johnson tells you of some ten sorts of Pines, but I know but two or three in England; one is common, and is raised of the Seed sown in good ground, and in the shade, in the Month of February: If it be frosty put it into Earth or Sand, and keep it in the house till the weather be seasonable; they will not grow of Cuttings, nor Laying, well; they be bad to be Removed when old, because the Roots run far from the Body in few years, and if broke or cut off, they will not readily break out at sides and ends; therefore Remove them young, at two or three years old, and at the times beforesaid, and then you may expect glorious stately Trees. None of all our green Trees in England may compare with them: Prune them as the Fir: They be fine to set round a Garden, or Bowling-green, for the Leaves will not do any harm.  
Of Firre-trees we have two sorts, they be easily Raised of Seeds sown as the Pine; one sort will grow of Laying, or of Slips set about Bartholomewtide; but than you must cut them one Inch or two from the Body, and cut that Stump close off the March following; and cut all other Boughts that be needful at that time, and you need not fear hurting your Tree, though my French Curate be against it.  
The best way to keep them is in Stories, about a yard between one another, but do not cut their Ends as some do, neither let them grow thick on a heap, but if you keep them in Stories they will grow taper, and you may take off some when you see Cause, and so help them up to a great height, and strait as an Arrow, for they naturally grow in a good shape.  
Lay the Clogs before the fire, and they will gape, so may you take out the Seeds the better. Pliny calls one sort of Pine, the Pinaster; Jonson's Herbal, pag. 1350.   

CHAP. XXIX.  
Of Raising the Yew, Holly, Box, Juniper, Bayes and Laurel, etc.  
THere be a great many more Trees, some of which shed their Leaves, and some keep them all the year besides; those I have spoken of before, but these be the most of our Forrest-trees; and as for those that do belong to the Garden, I shall not so much as mention them.  
The Yew-tree is produced of Seeds, rub the fleshy substance off, then dry them, and when they be dry, put them in sand a little moist, in a Pot or Tub; let this be done any time before Christmas: Keep them in house all Winter, and under some North-wall abroad all Summer; the Spring come Twelvemonth after you put them in Sand, sow them on a Bed; the ground not too stiff, keep them clean, and prick them out of that Bed into your Nursery, when they have stood two or three years there, you may bring them to what shape you please: It is a fine Tree and worthy to be more increased.  
Holly may be raised of the Berries, as the Yew, or by Laying; it loves a Gravelly-ground, as most of our Forrest-greens do; it is a curious Tree for Hedges, and will grow under the dropping of great Trees: It well deserves your love, yet is somewhat ticklish to remove, but the best time is before Michaelmas; if your Ground be stiff and cold, mix it with Gravel, but no Dung.  
Box the English and Edged, etc. do grow well of Slips, set about the latter end of August, or in March: It is very pleasant in green Groves, and in Wildernesses, though it hath a bad smell after Snow.  
Juniper is raised of the Berries; it is ticklish to Remove, it is a pretty Plant for the aforesaid places; the Berries are very wholesome; the Wood burnt yields a wholesome and pleasant Presume, so doth the Plant in the Spring.  
Bayes is increased plentifully of Suckers; or you may raise them of their Berries: They love the shade, and are fit to be set in green Groves.  
Laurel, or Cherry-bay is increased by Cuttings set about Bartholomewtide, and in the shade best, or by the Cherries. It is a glorious Tree for Standards on most Grounds, but on our coldest and openest it holds out our hard Winter's best: It may be kept with a clear stem two or three foot high, and let the Head be kept round, so that if you have a Row of them, the Trees all of a height and bigness, and the Heads all of a shape, no Tree is more pleasant: It is fit for Groves, Wildernesses, Hedges, etc. It will grow well on any ground, therefore make use of this beautiful Tree.  
The Oak at first doth like a King appear,  
The Laurel now at last brings up the Rear:  
The one does tender Plenty and Renown,  
The other offers Pleasure and a Crown:  
The Elm, the useful Ash, and Sycomore,  
Together with the Beech and many more,  
They promise all content to those that look  
To practise what is written in this Book.   

CHAP. XXX.  
General Rules for planting Forrest-trees in Avenues, Walks, or Orchards, as in a Natural Ground.  
FIrst as to the Ground, your Ground that hath been fed for many years, Winter and Summer, as your common Pasture-ground, or the like, such Ground (if it be any thing good) is the Best: The next is your Meadow-ground; and then your ploughed Land, if your Land be of Soil alike. Thus I prefer them. Several Reasons might be given for this, but I shall instance only in these few:  
As namely, your Ground that is constantly fed, hath likewise constantly a supply of Cattles Dung and Urine, with the variety of Kind's, which adds much to the strength of the ground: and likewise your Pasture-ground, though it abound with great variety of Herbs or Grass, according to the Nature of the Ground, as also your Meadow-ground doth; yet your Pasture-ground hath not only a constant supply of Soil by one sort of cattle or other, but the Grass which grows on it, doth seldom run to flower or seed; which when they do, they draw forth much more of the Salt or Spirit or strength of the Earth, as we find the Herbs or Grass on Meadow-grounds most commonly do. Therefore I judge your Commons the best; and both common Field Ground and Meadow better than constant ploughed Land; for that being kept with ploughing to prevent what naturally it would produce, this makes the Ground the Better; for 'tis certain, that where your Houses stand, or Highways are, there the Earth is full of Salt and Spirit, or the Life of Plants; not only because there is often some Assistance of Soil, which I confess makes it much Richer, but also because it cannot produce those Plants which naturally it would, were it not Restrained; For still it receives a constant supply from Nature, and as the Holy Scripture saith, the Almighty causeth the Sun to shine on the unjust as well as the Just, so also hath the foresaid Earth the secret Influence of the Heavens, as well as any other, unless Accidentally prevented; but this by the way.  
Now as for your ploughed Land, 'tis granted to be much better for ploughing; but this being sown with Annual Grain, very much draweth out the strength of the Earth; for I judge that your Annuals are much more drawing Plants than those which will last several years, it being in my Judgement with your Annual Plants, as it is with a man which hireth a House for a Year, when his year is out, he knowing he must remove, cleareth the House, especially of his own; when as your Durable Vegetable, (like a man whose house is his own) is favourable to its situation, having a kind of secret Knowledge (as I may say) that there they and theirs may continue many years.  
If this be understood, I hope you then will say with me, that your common Pasture is best to plant on; next to that, Meadow, then ploughed Land; that is, if all three be of equal goodness and soil.   

CHAP. XXXI.  
Of planting Forrest-trees to make Woods, or to fill up Naked places in Woods, where they want.  
TO tell some men of planting of Woods, is very needless; for there are too many men more inclined to stock up than to plant them; but I suppose the greater sort of Men, and I am sure the best sort, are more inclined to preserve and plant, than to destroy and stock them up. To those than that love either their Country or themselves, or especially their Posterity, and have any kindness for stately Forrest-trees, do I give this Advice.  
First, Let the Ground be of what Soil soever, be sure to plant most of such Trees as will grow best on that Soil; As if it be Gravel, than Beech, Holly, Hasel, etc. if mixed with Loom, than Oak, Ash, or Elm, etc. if stiff, than Ash, Hornbeam, Sycomore, etc. if a light Loom, than most sorts; and withal, have an eye to the adjacent Trees, and which sort soever you see thrive best, be sure to furnish your Ground with store of them.  
Secondly, If your Ground be moist, then set in good store of the Cuttings of Alder, Willow, Sallow, especially the two last on any Ground; for if there comes a wet Spring, or a moist Summer, many of them will grow, and produce good under-wood, if set as is directed in the 26 th'. or 27 th'. Chapters. Though the Ground be dry, and a Gravel-Bottom, yet they will thrive and produce good shoots in a little time, as I have found true at Cashiobury, etc.  
Thirdly, If you be minded to sow seeds, than you must prepare your Ground with a good Tillage before you sow your seed, as much as you do for sowing of Barley; and having all your Seeds ready prepared (by being kept some time in a House till they be fit to spear, or speared a little) then about the beginning of February sow them: The particular Chapter of each Kind will tell you how long it is before they will spear: If you plow your Ground into great Ridges, it will make the Earth lie the thicker on the top of each Ridge, and there the Roots will have the more depth to search for Nourishment, and the Furrows will in little time be filled up with Leaves, which when rotten, will lead the Roots from one Ridge to another.  
If your Ground be very dry, then plow your Ridges cross the descent of the Hills, not to drain the water off, but to keep it on your Ground; and if your Ground be very wet, than the contrary.  
But be mindful to sow most of those seeds your Ground is most naturally for. The most of these seeds following may be sown on your Ground: Oaks, Ash, Beech, Sycomore, Hornbeam, Crab or Apple, Cherry, Walnuts, Chestnuts, Holly, Hasel-nuts, Maple, Sarvice, etc. Which of these you find are not Natural for your Ground, neglect them. Some do sow their Seeds with a Crop of Barley, but the season of sowing of Barley is too late for your seeds, if they be prepared beforehand; but if you will be so saving as to have a Crop of that Tillage, then sow your seeds with Oats, for they may be sown with the season of your seeds: Do not sow your Oats too thick, and they may do well; but the best way for your seeds, is to sow them without any Crop of Corn.  
Fourthly, If you are minded to have a Wood soon, then plant it with Sets, and if your Ground be a good Natural Ground for Trees, than you may make only holes two foot wide, and as much deep, and about half a Rod asunder, so there will be four holes in every Rod square. But for fear my Reader should be at a stand here, and ask me how four Trees may stand in a Rod square, or four holes made in a Rod square, and yet the Middles be each half a Rod, or eight foot and ¼ asunder, I shall here satisfy him by Example; and it shall be of a supposed piece of Ground three Rod square, you may make your holes square if you please. (See Figure 1.)  
This is much like to that Question, Whether is half a Foot square, or half a square Foot, most? When as I have heard some say, they were both alike, but it was their Mistake.  
For, ½ a Foot square is only 6 Inches every way, that is, 6 times 6 is 36, and 6 times 36 is 216 Inches; when as half a square Foot is the half of a Cubical square foot, the number being 12 the square Root is 144, for 12 times 12 makes 144, and 12 times 144 makes 1728, the Cube, Now the half of 1728 is 864, which is half of a square Foot, then if you divide 864 by 216, you will find 4 for the Quotient, so that half a Foot square is but ¼ of half a square foot. This I have demonstrated as plain as I can, that I might be understood by every Countrey-capacity.  
Now if you were to plant one Acre of Ground after the aforesaid manner, the Charge would be as followeth: If it be a good digging ground, you may have 20 holes made for 12 d. two foot wide, and two foot deep; so there would be four times 160 holes, which is 640 holes, at 20 for 12 d. that is 32 s. and then I allow for every hole 2 Sets, so than it will take 1280 Sets, which will cost you together about 4 d. the 120. of any sorts of wood, which comes to about 3 s. 6 d. then for every hole 2 Sallow or Willow Cuttings 3. s. then 5 men to set them 6 s. and then Keys and Seeds to sow among your Sets next Spring, 5 s. 6 d.  
 l. s. d. Making Holes 01: 12: 00 Sets 00: 03: 06 Sallow Truncheons 00: 03: 00 Men to set them 00: 06: 00 Keys and Seed 00: 05: 06 Whole Charge 02: 10: 00  
So that the Charge of one Acre of Ground planted this way, will cost you about 2 l. 10 s. where Workmen and Sets may be had at such a price; the Spring after, I advise to sow Acorns, Sycamore-Keyes, Apple and Crab-stampings, etc. Let this sowing be done so oft as you find Stamping and Keys to be had, till you find your Wood very thick. I did sow all the Stamping of Apples and Crabs at Cashiobury among our young Woods which I had set, and the Ground not producing a strong Grass to choke them, they came up thick, and did well: But take care you let them not lie too thick long, for if you do, the stampings will heat, and kill the Kernels; sow them therefore as soon as they be pressed, or else lay them thin, or keep them parted with dry straw.  
But if your ground be bad, and a shallow Soil, or that you would help an indifferent ground, and are willing to be at some more Charge to do it, then do thus, which in small time will pay you or yours well for your Charges.  
Observe which is the Best way to lay out your ground, and then divide it into four yard's distance at both ends, by little stakes, and make Rows of stakes by setting up some few between the two at each end, which are only to direct you to lay your work strait, by ploughing one yard of each side your Stakes: If your Ground be Green-sorde, then plow it as is aforesaid, which will make the better for the Roots of your Trees to run in.  
Thus having ploughed two yards, and left two yards unplowed all over your Ground, a little before the season for planting, and when the season for setting is come, (that is, as soon as most of the Leaves are off,) having prepared Sets and Workmen, let them dig up the two yards that are unplowed, laying one half of that Earth upon one of the ploughed pieces, and the other half upon the other; and as you lay up that Earth upon the ploughed pieces, there set your Sets about a yard one from another, with store of Sallow-Cuttings with them, digging that ground which you lay on your plow'd Ground a good spade-deep, and then it will be near a foot thick to set your Sets in. Thus go from open (that is, unplowed) to open, until you have set all the plow'd pieces in your Ground: One man having the Sets ready, will set them as fast as four men shall dig, that is, two men on each side the Beds or Ridges, one a little before the other, so finish Bed after Bed till you have gone over and finished the whole Ground which you designed to plant that Winter; and endeavour to get all your planting done by the latter end of January, or beginning of February; for this Reason, that is, having provided Keys, Nuts and Seeds, as is before directed, (and is in each particular Chapter more fully discorsed) about that time sow them, Viz. about the beginning of February, unless it be a Frosty season, for than you must stay a little longer; so sow all your Beds over with seed, and cover them a little with the shovelings of some neighbouring Ditch.  
In doing thus, you may be certain of a good thriving Wood in a little time, though the ground you plant on be (almost) never so bad. This I do suppose to be as good a way as most are for planting of Woods.  
Therefore, according to the Latin Proverb, Serere ne dubites, Doubt not to plant; and I wish I could persuade Noblemen and Gentlemen that have Ground that is not very good for Corn or Grass, to plant it with Wood; especially in those Countries where wood is scarce: I dare insure them, that it would be to them or their Successors a very great benefit, and also a great Ornament to their Naked Grounds.  
Now I shall endeavour as near as I can, to give you an Account what the Charge of this may be; which, did I but know your Ground, and what wages your Workmen in such places have for one day's work, I could then do more exactly.  
But we will suppose the Ground to be a good digging Ground, that may be afforded to be digged and laid up for 4 d. the Rod-square, and our Example shall be of one Acre of Ground, of which you may well perceive by what is before showed, there will be but one half ploughed, and that half planted.  
First then, for a good deep ploughing of half an Acre of Ground 4 s.  
Secondly, For half an Acre of Ground digging, at 4 d. the Rod, (for if 160 Rod make one Acre, than 80 Rod is half an Acre, and then 80 Groats for the digging,) comes to 1 l. 6 s. 8 d.  
Thirdly, If every Four men must have one man to st to them, than there must be near one fourth part more for him, which one fourth is 6 s. 8 d.  
Fourthly, If we allow for every yard square in this half Acre, one good Set, besides Truncheons of Sallow and Willow, etc.  
The Number of yards in a superficial Rod square is 30 and ¼.  
The number of superficial sq. Rods in one Acre 160.  
The number of sq. yards in one Acre, or 160 Rod, 4840. Or if you would work this Question by the Line of Numbers, and your Compasses, set one point on one; Extend to 5 and ½, the same will reach from 5 and ½ to 30 and ¼.  
Secondly, Extend your Compass from one to 30 and ¼, the same will reach from 160 to 4840: Thus you may prove your work by two turns of your Compasses.  
Now finding 4840 yards in one Acre of ground, and for every yard one Set, at 120 for 4 d. comes to Forty Groats, and Forty over (which is 13 s. 5 d. 1 q. and ⅓ of q. for forty Groats is 13 s. 4 d.) than to know what the odd Forty come to, the Rule ranks itself thus: If 120 cost 4 d. or 16 q. what then will 40 cost.  
So you see that these 40 will cost 5 q. and 40 over, and if you divide this 120 by 40, there then will be 3 in the Quotient, which showeth that 40 is ⅓ of 120: So that 4840 Sets at 120 for 4 d. will cost thirteen Shillings five pence one farthing, and one third part of a farthing:  
For Truncheons of Sallow and Willow 3 s. and for Seed 10 s.  
 l. s. d. Ploughing 00: 04: 00 Digging 01: 06: 08 To a Man to set 00: 06: 08 For Sets 00: 13: 06 For Truncheons 00: 03: 00 For Keys, Nuts and Seeds 00: 10: 00 Whole Charge is 03: 03: 10  
Thus have I showed some ways for the planting of Woods, and also what Charge it will cost you, though I have spoke of the lowest Rates that good digging Ground can be done at; and where men work for 10 d. per day, yet if you love planting, and your Ground be a bad Ground to dig, (as a Gravel or stiff Clay,) and that your Sets be scarce, or that you be minded to plant more in your Ground (which will be the better) then if you allow as much more to each Acre, the Charge may be computed accordingly, and you will find it not to be great.  
There are more ways to plant Woods, but these I take to be the best; or thus, instead of making your Holes Round, you may make them a long square, and the holes will be the easier to make after this way. (See Fig. 2.)  
This that hath been said, I hope will be some satisfaction to those that love planting of Woods, and are to seek in the ways; which if it be, I then shall be well satisfied, for my design is a General more than a Particular Good.  
Now having finished your Wood, take care to keep it well fenced from cattle of all sorts, and when it is about seven or eight years' growth, than fell it, pruning up those to a head you are minded to leave for Standards, leaving half as many more as need to stand, for Timber-trees, as Oak, Ash, Elm, Beech, etc. felling the rest at the Ground, not flat off, but well sloped up; And if you have Poplar, Abele, Cherry, Elm, Sarvice, etc. they will spring much from the Roots, and thicken your Woods; if not, set some in.   

CHAP. XXXII.  
Of planting Young Hedges, and how to improve and keep Old Hedges.  
THere are and may be made many sorts of Hedges of one particular sort of Wood alone, some for Ornament only, some for Ornament and Profit, and some for Ornament, Profit and a Fence. Juniper I take to be one of the best for to make a low Hedge, of any Plant or Tree we have growing in England; for it grows naturally very thick, is a slow grower, and hath always a fine fresh green Colour, and the severest of our hard Winters will not make it change his Countenance; I confess it is something ticklish to be Removed, for its being not used to stir far from home makes it many times lose its way, and its Life too, if led far from its native place, at unseasonable times, or by an ignorant Guide, and put into such an Habitation as is not suitable for it to Live in. I have with good success removed it above Thirty miles, namely, from beyond Cashiobury to Little-Hadham; there I made my Ground (notwithstanding it was naturally a stiff Clay) by mixing it well with Gravel and Sand: I Removed it a little after Bartholomewtide, and I did not lose one Plant in ten, but they do flourish in two little Hedges most gallantly.  
I shall not speak of that most healthful Aromatic Seed which it beareth, nor of the use of this Cedar; but if you would be further satisfied, see Esquire Evelins Discourse of Forrest-trees, or any Herbal. I have not as yet raised any of it of Seed, but I am now making a trial, which if they once come to endure Removing while young, I doubt not but then they will be better to Remove when old.  
Holly makes a most stately and beautiful Hedge; and had we but store of the White-berried Holly to mix in the Hedge with the Red, it would make it the more Ornamental. It's Ground that it most delights to grow on, is, dry and gravelly: See more in the Chapter of Holly: Or had we but store of the stripped to make Hedges with, it would be very Noble indeed.  
Hornbeam may be kept in a good shape for a high Hedge, and very thick, even to the ground. It is (alone) one of the very best homebred natural Forrest-trees that shed the Leaf, to make a Hedge of; and is senceable, unless against the rudest sort of cattle.  
Box maketh a good Hedge, and lasting; I mean the English, though the others are pretty for Hedges, both the Gilded, and the Dwarf; but these two being not proper to name, or to discourse of among Forrest-trees: I shall only name them and many other sorts, and so pass forward.  
Laurel, (as we call it,) or Bay-Cherry, makes a good Hedge, and if well kept, very fine Standards. Hard Winters do pierce it on some Grounds, but on most it is durable; it is easy to increase, and will grow well on most Grounds; Keep it but down, and it will grow strong below, and thick, and then make a very fine Hedge.  
Arbutus, or Strawberry-tree is a Curious Plant for a Hedge, only it is very tender, especially while young; for, the Leaves being constant whilst Life lasteth, and of a fair Green, finely dented about the Edges, and its pretty white Flower in Summer, with its Strawberry on, the beginning of Winter, all together add a great deal of grace to this Plant.  
Cypress would make fine Hedges, but for two faults; for first, in in some Grounds it is tender, and will not abide our hard Winters. And Secondly, it doth not love to be headed, for that makes it still more tender: Cut it not late in Summer.  
Mezereon or Dwarf-bay, both the Red and White together make a pretty low Hedge, and show very beautifully Early in the Spring.  
Alaternus or Ever green Privet makes a fine thick green hedge, it would be supported with a Frame, especially while 'tis young.  
Pyracantha or prickly Coral makes a good thick Hedge, and a very fine show when it is full of its fine Red berries, which appear like Beads of Red Coral among the dark green Leaves. It likes our Entertainment so well, that it will grow well on most Grounds; our Winters disturb it not, and 'tis very easy to be multiplied or increased by Laying or Cuttings.  
They that have store of Ground, and are Lovers of Plants, I hope will not be without these few named, and many more that will be very acceptable; but they be not some of them so proper for Hedges: Many more there be that would make very fine Hedges for pleasure, if well kept, as the double-blossom Cherry, the Laurus, Tinus or wild Bay, Primme, Savin, etc.  
These few are only for Ornament, and make (any of them) fine Hedges alone, or you may mix them with Judgement, and they will then be very pleasant.  
Now I shall show you a few of those that are for profit and Ornament; such are the Summer-Pears on Quince-stocks; for that makes them the more Dwarfish; Cherries make a fine Hedge, but especially the small-leaved, as the several sorts of Flanders, great Bearers, etc.  
Plumbs, Quinces, Codlins', Barberries, etc. all these make fine Hedges, but must have Supporters: In the three last there is this fault, that the better they be kept, I mean the handsomer, the worse they will bear. But I am got two steps too far into the Garden, and now I shall give you an Account of such as are proper to fence in your Woods, Orchards, etc. which is the scope of my Discourse; for such are both profitable and pleasant, though not so Ornamental as the other before; and if you would make a Fence of one particular sort of Wood, the very best is your White-bush, or White-thorn.  
Your Crab-stocks make also a stout strong Fence; and if you leave at every twenty foot one to run up, keeping it with pruning till it is five or six foot high, and then graft it with Red strikes or other good Syder-fruit, such a Hedge would be very pleasant and profitable: You may so order your Stock and Tree whilst they be young, that by pruning you may have the head of your Tree to hang into your Ground, a little over your Hedge: Let me desire you to make such a Hedge where you have occasion to make one: As for your Stocks they are as easy to raise as Barley, and they are as certain to grow on most sorts of Ground, as any one wood I know.  
For common and public Fences there is none to compare with these two, for certainty of growing, for a thick, strong, and an armed Fence.  
Black-bush makes a good strong Fence, but it hath one Inconvenience, that is, it will not keep within its bounds, but will run very much into your ground, and there be very troublesome to keep out: Therefore if your Fence be for Wood, it may do well, for the Reason aforesaid: Also when you plash it, it will often be ready to die, by Reason that it shoots so much from the Root.  
Thus have I showed you some sorts of Woods to make your Hedges with, I shall now give you some Directions how to make them; and here observe that for all those which are for Ornament only: You must prepare a Border by good digging and clean picking it from weeds, adding some good Natural Earth, such as the Kind's you set do most naturally grow in, which let be well prepared against the season for planting, and then make use of your time: The greatest sort may be set about a yard one from another, such as your Holly, Laurel, etc. the other about two foot or less, such as your Juniper, Mezereon, etc. Let this be the most, but if you have store of Plants, set them thicker, be sparing in heading most sorts of Greene's.  
For those that are for Ornament and Profit, the Ground must be made good, trenched deep, and mixed well with Dung; they may be set about six foot asunder. You may make very curious Hedges of Pears, Cherries, etc. But I am too far got into the Orchard or Garden; I must retreat to my Forrest-trees, to shelter me from the Gardiner's Anger.  
Of those sorts that are for Ornament, Profit, and for Fence, I have told you that there are two peculiar sorts, viz. the White-thorn and the Crab; which are indeed the most proper to fence in our Forrest-trees, and woods, of any I know. I know most Hedges, which are mixed with many sorts of wood, are apt to come too fast, without planting Sets of White-thorn, which in most places are plentiful to be had; burr if you would Raise them of Haws, order them as is showed of the Cherry or Yew-berries.  
Now to Raise your Crab or Apple-stocks, (though the Crab-stocks are better than your Apple-stocks, for the Crab grows more rugged, strong, and is more lasting, but Stocks raised of Apple-kernels will do well) let your Ground be well prepared by Digging, and picking it clean from weeds; mix it with some good rotten Dung, then when the time is, that they beat their Crabs for Verjuice, or Apples for Cider, then prepare yourself with so many as you think are convenient for your Ground, and as soon as they be stamped, sow them if you can, for if they lie long in the Stamping, that will heat and spoil your Kernels: Therefore if you have them to fetch far, or that you cannot sow them instantly, then let them be sifted from the body of the Apple, and spread thin, or mixed with dry Sand, till you have opportunity to sow them; or you may keep them in Sand (the Kernels I mean) a little moist, till February, and then sow them; but be sure your Ground be well prepared beforehand with good tillage, and clean picking; cover them about one Inch, or a little more, with fine Mould; afterwards, when they come up, keep them constantly clean from weeds; Remembering if you sow at Michaelmas, that you take care to keep Traps set, for fear Mice rob you of your Kernels. Thus may you Raise what Quantity of Stocks you please, which at two and three years old you may set where you would have them to stand, for to Raise Trees, or to make Hedges for fenceing in your Ground. Keep them clean from Weeds by Digging or Hoing.  
Thus having showed you how to furnish yourselves with store of Stocks in a little time, which will make you as strong and good Fences as most wood whatsoever, and are very profitable too, both to yield good Liquor for Drink, and to bring good Fuel to the Fire; I shall now show you how to plant these Quicksets, both for Hedges with Ditches, and for Stant-hedges (as some call them) without Ditches.  
First, Strain a Line where the inside of your Ditch must go, next your Hedge, then mark along by the Line, sloping, as you would have the Bank of your Hedge to slope, then strain the Line on the other side of the Ditch, and mark it out sloping inward to the Ditch, as you did the other side: For Example, suppose you make your Ditch a yard at the top, and three spade or a yard deep, let it slope so on both sides that it may come to a foot wide at the bottom, but let the Hedge-side slope the most, then if your ground be Green-sword, and stiff Land, with a Turing Iron take all the Turf off the breadth of your Ditch, then cut out a Triangle-piece all along next the bank, turn hat upsidet down, for to make the slope of your bank; Lay some of the Turf you cut off, or all of it, on the backside of that Triangle-piece; thereon set one Row of Quick, covering the Roots with Crumbs of Mould, the Ditch one yard, and the Bank a yard, as you may see in Figure 3. where A. is the Triangle-piece cut out of the Ditch, B. the piece laid on the Bank, with the Turf laid grass-side downward, and the Set on the top of that piece, then levelly up the Bank till it comes level with the top of the piece B. and then lay on such another Angular piece, and on the top of that a Quickset, as the other, then levelly up as before, and set another Angular piece, with the Quick on the top; so have you three Rows of Quickset, which let stand about one foot from another in each Row, and if your Ground or the Bank be dry, set them a foot deep, and if you will you may set one row on the top of the Bank; but three Rows set each against other, open, triangle, make an excellent Fence; if set as is aforesaid.  
(See Fig. 3.)  
And note, that the higher and larger you make your Bank, the better your Quick will grow; for this Paradox is true in planting, That the more you spend, the more you shall get; but if your Ground be a light Soil, than you need not take off the Turf from the triangle-pieces, because the Turf will make such Ground hold up the Bank the better; but than it will grow out at the edge of the Angle, and so will trouble you the more to weed your Quick; and besides you will want it to lay in the midst of your Bank, which would feed your Sets much, and make them grow the better.  
But if you would make a Stant-hedge without a Ditch, the usual way is, to dig a Trench about a foot and a half wide, therein set two or three Rows of Quick, which on good Land may prove indifferent well, but if your Ground be bad, or that you would make it grow and prosper well on any Land, then dig a place where your Hedge must stand one yard wide, and make a Bank with Earth one yard high, being one yard at the bottom, and narrowed by degrees to a foot at the top; set two Rows of Sets on each side this Bank, as is showed before about planting the Bank by the Ditch; or you may make this Bank two foot wide below, and two foot high, setting one Row of Quick on each side, and one on the top, as is before directed; and ever observe, that the larger you make your Banks, the better your Sets will grow, as is before noted.  
You may, if your Fence be near to an Highway, have Earth sufficient from thence to make this bank, which will be a little fence of it self, and help the growth of your Sets much; or you may slope off your ground a foot deep by this Bank, and some ten foot off come out to the Level of the Ground; there may you furnish yourself with Earth to make the Bank, ploughing or digging up that ground where you took off the Earth, adding a little Dung to it, which you may sow in the Spring with Corn or Hay-seed, and your Ground in little time will be never the worse, especially if the Soil be good.  
Thus having set your Hedge, cut off all the sets within one inch or two of the ground, and keep them weeded for two or three years; and when they have shot two years on good, or three years on indifferent ground, cut them off within three Inches of the ground; but if there be some places too thin, there lay down some into the gaps, and cover them and the rest over one Inch with Mould, leaving the Ends of the the Layers out, which will draw Root, and thicken your Hedge. Let his be practised at all times, when you make or lay your Hedges.  
But note, if your Hedge be set with Crab, or Apple-stocks, that you leave one standing, uncut up, at every twenty foot, or at every ten or twelve foot, if the Ground be your own, on both sides the Hedge; then may you so order them, by pruning or staking, that one may lean into one ground, and the other into another, etc. Prune up these Stocks yearly, till you have got them out of Cattles reach, and then graft them with Red-strake Jennit-moyl, or what Cider, or other Fruit you please; but if your Stocks be of Apple-kernels, you may let them stand ungrafted, and they will yield you very good Syder-fruit; but Stocks ungrafted will be the longer before they bear, and also when you graft, you may be certain of your Kind, but if you find a very natural Stock, that is likely by Leaf, Shoot and Bud, try it; by so doing you may have a new fine Fruit: if you like it not, you may graft it when you please.  
The rest of the Hedge when it hath shot three or four year, you may Lay, for to make a fence of itself; for you must mind to keep it from cattle till it comes to be Laid, and one or two years after; And now to Lay it, I shall give some few Rules, which may direct you when you Lay any Fence-hedge, of what sort of wood soever it be.  
First at every Laying, lay down some old Plashes, or young ones if your Hedge be thin; but let them point with their Ends to the Ditch-side of the Bank, keeping the ends low on the Bank; they will the better thicken the bottom of your Hedge, and keep up the Earth of your Bank.  
Secondly, At every Laying lay Earth on your Bank, to heighten it, and to cover your Layers all but the Ends, which Earth will help your Quick much, and make the Fence the better by heightening the Banks, and deepning your Ditch.  
Thirdly, Do not cut your Plashes too much, but just so much as they may well bend down; and do not lay them so upright as some of our Workmen do, but lay them near to a Level, the Sap will break out at several places the better, and not run so much to the ends as it will when they lie much sloping. If you have Wood to spare, cut up most of those that grow near the Ditch; but hang the Bank then with Bushes, to keep the cattle from cropping them the first year; these will shoot strong, and secure your Hedge well, keep up the Bank, and thicken the bottom of your Hedge, etc.  
Fourthly, Lay your Hedge pretty thick, turning the beard on the Ditch-side; but do not let the beard hang uncut, as the common workmen do, (though it doth make a good show at first making) but cut off all the straggling boughs within half a foot of the Hedge on both sides, then will it shoot strong at these places, and thicken your Hedge much the more: Of this, Reason may inform you, as it did me, and Experience will afterwards confirm it.  
Fifthly, If you have got a good high Bank, make your Hedge so low as you think it may but just serve for Fence the first year; for it will soon grow high, and the lower your Hedge is made, the Quick will grow the better, and the bottom will be the thicker; but take care to keep out cattle from the Field-side, the first year after it is made.  
Sixthly, If you would have a good Hedge for Fence, you must fallen it often, doing as is aforesaid, and take care at every felling to root out Elder, Traveller's Joy, (that is Bull-bine, as some call it,) Briany, etc. and also leave not too many high Standard-trees or pollard's in it; the Elm is one of the best. Do not use too much dead wood in the bottom of your Hedges, for that chokes your Quick; but if you have a gap, make your dead Hedge at a distance. Much more I could say of Hedges, but I forbear.  
Only I cannot pass by the Learned Esquires good Advice, in his Discourse of Forrest-trees, (pag. 50.) which is this: I do only wish, upon the Prospect and Meditation of the Universal Benefit, that every person whatsoever, worth Ten Pounds per Annum, within his Majesty's Dominions, were by some indispensable Statute obliged to plant his Hedge-rowes with the best and most useful kinds of them, especially in such places of the Nation, as be the more Inland Counties. Thus far the Learned Author: To which I add, that if they did not plant so many Trees, and keep such a number planted, they should be compelled to plant ten Crab-stocks for the want of one Tree, etc.  
If this were but as much in use with us as it in Hereford-shire, and once grown to a Custom, we should in few years banish out foreign Drinks by this our excellent and most wholesome one. Besides, our Trees in shallow ground would thrive better in Banks of Hedge-rowes, than in the middle of the Ground.  
Again, (saith he) Undoubtedly if this course were effectually taken, a very considerable part both of Meat and Drink which is spent in our prejudice, might be saved by the Countrypeople, even out of the Hedges; which would afford them not only the Pleasure and Profit of their delicious Fruit, but such abundance of Cider and Perry as should suffice them to drink of one of the most wholesome and excellent Beaverages in the World.  
Old Gerrard did long since allege us an Example worthy to be pursued: I have seen (saith he, speaking of Appletrees, lib. 3. ch. 101.) in the Pastures and Hedge-rowes about the Grounds of a worshipful Gentleman, dwelling two miles from Hereford, called Mr. Roger Bodnome, so many Fruit-trees of all sorts, that the Servants drink for the most part no other Drink but that which is made of Apples; the Quantity being such, that (by the Report of the Gentleman himself) the Parson hath for Tithe many hogsheads of Cider. An Example doubtless to be followed of Gentlemen that have Lands: But Envy saith, The Poor will break down our Hedges, and we shall have the least part of the Fruit: However, I advise you to go forward, in the Name of God; Graft, set, plant, and nourish up Trees every corner of your Ground; the Labour is small, the Cost is nothing, the Commodity is great, yourselves shall have plenty, the Poor shall have somewhat in time of want to relieve their Necessity, and God shall reward your Minds and Diligence. Thus far honest Gerard.  
And in truth, with how small Charge and with how great Pleasure this were to be effected, every one that is Patron of a little Nursery can easily calculate: But by this Expedient, many thousands of Acres, sowed now with Barley, might be cultivated for Wheat, or converted into Pasture, to the increase of Corn and cattle; besides the Timber which the Pear-tree doth afford, comparable for divers curious uses with most: this also would make Timber the more plentiful; the decaying Trees and pruning would be good Firewood.  
One thing more I do wish were practised in our Hedges, and those fined severely that did not observe it, viz. That there should not an Oak in any Hedge whatsoever, be headed, but that the Owner might have liberty to shred them up as some do Elms, though not to stock or fell them till such an Age; in such Banks we should have the best Timber, and enrich the Owner, etc.   

CHAP. XXXIII.  
Of planting several sorts of Forrest-trees, in order to making the best advantage of Ground, as Orchards, or the like.  
SUppose you were to plant one Acre of Ground, or more, with Walnuts or Chestnuts, or the like, and would have it planted to the best advantage; that is, to have your Trees stand in good Order to the Eye, and to have as many Trees as conveniently you can in your Ground, (which is supposed all men would have) and yet your Trees to stand at convenient distance.  
Now (I say) supposing your Ground to be one Acre, and a Geometrical square, in such a ground you may begin your first Row on which side you please to stake out your Ground for the holes to be made; you must first resolve what distance your Trees had best be planted at; remembering, that if your ground be good, and a deep ground, than you may plant your Trees at somewhat the greater distance: Of the Ground that most Trees delight in, you may see in the particular Chapter, speaking of each Kind. Your Best way is to plant them Triangular and not square, as some do; for you can plant them in no form or order whatsoever to be more pleasing to the most Noble Sense, than to have every three Trees to make an Equilateral Triangle; nor in no other way whatsoever to have so many Trees to stand in such, or any piece of Ground whatsoever, at such a distance. For satisfaction, and likewise to demonstrate it more fully, observe these two following Figures of the aforesaid piece of Ground, which is one Acre, and is a Geometrical Square.  
But before I show you a Draft, or you stake out your Ground for your holes to be made, first consider well these few Rules:  
First, Observe the Distance that your Trees ought to be planted at; always remembering, that if your Ground be good, and a deep Soil, that then your Trees will hold the longer, and by consequence grow to the greater perfection, therefore plant at larger distance. As for Example, If I were to plant this Acre of Ground with Syder-Apples, (as for Instance, all redstrakes, which is an excellent Syder-Apple, and is likewise a great Bearer, and a Tree that doth not last very long,) my Ground being also a shallow Ground, I think of 22 foot asunder to plant these Trees at, or as near that as the Ground will permit.  
Then Secondly, I go round my Ground, and observing my Fence well, and finding no great Trees in it, I then resolve to set my Trees at six foot from my Fence, (but note, if there be great Trees in your Hedge that fences your Ground, than this is too nigh) than I set off six foot at one Corner of my Orchard, and six foot at the other Corner of the same side, which is the East side, than I set off six foot at one Corner of the West side, it matters not which, only that End which is the Levellest, is the best for Measuring: Having set these three stakes, I strain a Line from one stake to the other, on the East side; then I lay a square to this Line, removing it along the Line till I find the other End of the Square point exactly against the Stake on the west side; then laying a Line right square to that Line, till you come at the Stake on the West side, I then measure by this Line as many 22 feet as I can; noting how many times 22 foot I find, and what you find is over, or more than 11 foot, then make your distance the less, to make that up the equal distance for one Tree more: but if it be less than half the distance your Trees are to stand asunder, then add that which is under the 11 foot, to the number of Trees that be to stand asunder. Observe but this, and then you need not fear that your Trees will stand too far off on one side, and too near on the other, it being the same Charge to plant in good Order as at Random, as too many do; nay many times less Charge; and how much more pleasing Order is, I leave them to judge to whom the great God of Order hath given a great delight to imitate him in his glorious works.  
But as for this my piece of Ground, which I pitch on only for Example, viz. One Acre, and a Square, I must find the square Root of 160 Rod, or as near it as my Chain will give, and then subtract but the 12 foot out for the distance of the Trees from the Fence, and divide the Remainder by 22, the Quotient tells you how many Trees will stand in a Row; the over-measure substracted from, or added to, as your Reason teacheth you.  
Note this, that it is most commonly the best way for your Rows to go the longest way of your Ground; for though your Trees stand 22 foot asunder, yet your Rows in their strait Lines will not stand so far.  
Now to find the square Root there are very many Rules, but none that are to my Apprehension so exact and easy as by Logarithmes: find but the Logarithme of your Number, then take half that Log. the Number answering is the square Root.  
Exam. The Log. of 160, is 2. 204 11998.  
The half of this Log. is 1. 10205999.  
The nearest Number answering this Logarithme is 12 Rod, 65/100 that is, 12 Rod 65 Links of a one Pole-Chain divided into 100 parts.  
The Proof may appear by these three Examples following.  
By this it doth plainly appear, that 12.65 is the nearest Number that can be found by your Decimal Chain it is but 225/10000 more, and by Logarithmes but 2 of a Link put into 100 parts, therefore exact as need be for this purpose, unless it were for Calculation in Astronomy, or the like. And you see that 12.64▪ multiplied in itself, amounts to 159 Rod and 7696/10000: so that I take 12 Rod and 65 of 100 to be Length or Breadth; it being a Square they both be as one.  
Now being the Question is propounded in Feet, we must turn this 12 Rod and 65/100 into feet also; but note, you may work the same by the Links of your Chain better than by foot Measure; but some ('tis possible) have not a Chain, therefore observe both ways, and first by Foot measure.  
12 Rod multiplied by 16 Foot and a half, show the Feet in 12 Rod.  
Then for the 65 Links of one Rod, put into 100 parts, or if it be your four Pole-Chain (as is most usual now) put into 100 Links; then are these 65 Links but 16 Links and a 1/49; by that Chain; then by the Rule of Three, say, if 25 (the Links in one Rod) be equal to 16 foot and a half (the feet in one Rod,) how many feet are equal to 16 Links and a Quarter?  
The Question ranks itself thus in Decimal Fractions.  
As 25 is to 16. 50, so is 16. 25: to 10 foot 725/1000 of a foot.  
Do you desire to know what this Fraction 725/1000 is, in Inches or Barley-Corns, (which be the lowest vulgar terms in surveying) to satisfy you and also myself, and likewise to instruct those that desire to learn this Excellent Rule, the Rule of Three, which rightly (for its excellent Use) is called the Golden Rule.  
Observe this, if one foot, or 12 Inches be put into 1000 parts, as here it is, (and must be, being 'tis the Integer or whole sum of 725,) the Rule order itself thus, as 1000 is to 12 Inches, so is 725 to 8 Inches 700/1000.  
Now to know what this 700/1000 is in Barley-Corns, do as before, say thus, If 1000 be equal to 3 Barley-Corns, what is 700 equal unto? I say as here you see it proved, that 700 is equal to two Barley-corns and one tenth part of one, for 100 is one tenth of 1000  
By this it doth plainly appear, that if 12 Rod 65/100 be turned into feet, it maketh 208 foot, 8 Inches, 2 Barley-corns, and one tenth of a Barley-corn: So that you see the square Root of an Acre is near 208 foot 8 Inches two Barley-corns, neglecting 1/10, because 65/100 is somewhat too much. Now from this 208 foot 8 Inches, I take the 12 foot for the Trees to stand off from the Fence, there remains 196 foot 8 inches, than I divide this by 22, the distance the Trees are to stand asunder; So I find there may stand ten Trees, for here you see there may be open places, and 20 foot 8 inches for one more; so there wants but one foot 4 Inches (or 16 Inches) to make 10 Trees in a Row, for there is always a Tree more than the open.  
Note, that in planting of Walks, this is of good use, that (as I said before) to make one Tree more, this 16 inches I divide by 9, (being there are 9 opens between the ten Trees,) the Quotient is near 2 inches, which subtract from 22 foot, and there remains then 21 foot 10 Inches, and so much must every Tree stand asunder, the proof is as followeth:  
Here you see that'tis 196 foot and 6 Inches, it wants but 2. In.  
Then to know what distance your Rows may stand asunder, the Rule is, If you make an Equilateral Triangle, the perpendicular of that is the distance between the Rows, which Triangle I have drawn by the same scale of the Orchard. (See Fig. 4.)  
See Chapter the 44th. The breadth of my Paper 6 inches, the Plate 196 foot, and 66 of 100 for the 8 inches, my Scale is near 33 parts in one inch, but I take 32 because it is an even number.  
(See Fig. 4.)  
If you will try the Perpendicular of this Triangle, 'tis but 19 foot, so that there are 3 foot between every 2 Rows saved by Planting your ground this way, more than those that plant their Ground to have every 4. Trees to make a Square, the Trees standing in both at the same distance.  
But finding that but little Paper beareth the full breadth of 6 inches the quarter of a sheet, and this being less square by twelve foot than my full Draught should be, this being only for the square of the Trees, I draw and proportion my Scale to the breadth of 5 Inches and a half: 208 foot divided by 5 and ½, showeth that your Scale must be one Inch divided into 37 parts, and better; but for fear this Scale should be too great, I draw my Plate by the Scale of 40 in one Inch, so if you divide 208 (the breadth of the Ground) by 40, it gives 5 Inches and 8/40, and so broad must the Plate be, as you may see by the Figure: Thus may you enlarge your Draught, or diminish it on your Paper, as your pleasure is: But 'tis better to draw all your Draughts as large as your Paper will give you leave; the distance of the Trees in the Draught is 21 foot 10 Inches asunder.  
(See Fig. 5.)  
By this you see, that if you plant your Trees triangle, this Acre of Ground hath 11 Rows and 104 Trees; but if you begin either side with 10, as before I began with 9, then will there be in this ground 105 Trees; but to know how many Rows you may have in any ground, do thus, and you may presently satisfy yourself; you see the ground from one outside Row to the other, is 196 foot 8 Inches, which divided by 19 (the distance that the Rows be asunder, neglecting the Fraction as needless now) gives 10 distances. Always remember that there is one Rowe, or in a Range of Trees one more than the Distances, in this Draught the Trees stand at the same distance, but square.  
(See Fig. 6.)  
By this last Draught it appeareth, that if you set the Trees at the same distance, and set them square, that then there will be but 9 Rows and 90 Trees in this square Acre of Ground; but if you plant them Triangle, then will it hold 14 or 15 Trees more: But if your Plate of Ground be a long square, or any other Irregular Figure, then will your Triangle-way hold a great many more, in proportion to the Quantity of Ground; besides it makes many more Rows, therefore more pleasing to the Eye.  
Note this well for setting your Trees exactly, having found the distance they are to stand asunder, and likewise how many Rows, with a Line laid, or stakes true set, where your first Row must go; the said stakes will be of good use to set the Trees by when your holes be made; having resolved on which side you will begin, which always let be the side you find most in sight, set down your two Corner-stakes for the first and last holes to be made, then with your Assistants measure exactly in your Row by the Line 21 foot and Ten inches, but in case there should be odd measure, than proportion it (as is showed before) by making one Hole more or less, as you see cause: Then having two men to assist you, with a Chain (for Line will reach or shrink,) measure exactly the distance of two Trees, let one hold at one Tree, and one at the next in the Row, you standing at the Angle, with the Chain equally stiff, put down a stake at the Angle, and so go on to the next two Trees, pitching down your stakes perpendicular: And also considering the Thickness of your Stakes; thence let your two men go to the next, and you setting down one at the Angle, till you have staked out the whole Ground; this do when you come to set your Trees, being careful to keep your Chain strained both sides alike, and to allow for the crookedness of your Trees, and when you have got two Rows planted, than your Eye will assist you well enough to observe the Rows as you go on.  
Note also, that if your Ground be large, and a square, than your best way will be to find the middle Row, and set that off square from that side of your Ground you mind most, or find to be straightest; there begin to mark out your holes, and also to plant your Trees; but if your Ground be Irregular, or have an Angle on one side, then begin on your strait side, and run the odd measure into the Angle, as far as is convenient to plant in such a Ground, you need but find what distance your first Row must be set at: But if your Ground have both the sides strait, than it will be convenient to set the side-rowes at equal distance from your Fence; Thus you may well perceive, that it is but measuring the length and breadth of your Ground, and proportion one to the distance your Trees be to stand at, the other to the distance the Rows are to be asunder, and you may proceed to stake out your Ground. After this method you may plant any sort of Forrest trees in Groves.  
The best way is, to stake out your whole Ground before you plant a Tree, or make one hole; by so doing you may well perceive where a fault is, and easily mend it in time (though some are of opinion otherwise,) but I shall leave them to their own Judgement, and satisfy myself with Experience and Reason: But for fear any thing should be dubious to you that I have writ, observe but the setting out of these two Rows, and then I hope it will be plainly demonstrated to you how to proceed. Suppose the Length of your Ground should be the length of the Line marked at the End thus.  
(See Figure 7.)  
Having staked out your first Row, as before is showed, and having the Chain exactly the distance of two Open, then bid one of your men take one End, and the other man the other End, you holding exactly the Middle, bid one hold at the stake one, the other at the stake two, then pitch you down your stake right at the Angles, as the pricked Line showeth: So let your two men remove from stake to stake, and you from Angle to Angle, till you have staked out your Row, and then let them come to that Row you last set out, and go on to another, so proceed till you have staked out your whole Ground. Thus much for planting Trees in Orchard fashion. I have been the larger to show the best way for improving your Ground, presuming, that every man that fenceth in a ground would plant as many Trees as he can in it; let such but mind what I have delivered, and what I shall deliver in the next Chapter, I hope it will be satisfactory to him; if it be, it will be the like to me.  
But what Order soever you plant your Trees in, make your holes good before: Set not your Trees too deep, and keep them staked the first year, covering the ground over the Roots with some Litter, or Dung, and over that a little Mould, to keep the Sun from burning the Dung, and exhausting the strength. In the Spring walk over the Ground you planted in Winter, and set your Trees to right, and tread the Mould to the Roots, especially if the Spring be dry; keep all the cracks filled with Mould; after your Trees be set, keep your ground with digging or ploughing, for three or four years at first, but the longer the better; your Trees will run and thrive in the loose Ground much; but if you do not so much mind Order in Planting, but would keep your Land for Corn, and yet would gladly have Fruit-trees too (which may very well be, and you may have good store of Fruit: and not much the less Corn,) then plant your Rows about thirty foot asunder, the longest ways of your Ground, and set the Trees in the Rows about 15 foot asunder, and let the Trees in each Row stand exactly square; so may you have a very fine Orchard, and little or nothing the less Corn: Many years may you have as much Fruit as is worth a good Crop of Corn, off so much Land, and not the less Corn; which may well encourage you to planting, if you dare believe me; but if not, be but so kind to yourself and me, as to try whether I tell truth not. Be sure to keep Cows out of your young Orchards; Sheep will do no harm, provided you wisp your Trees about with Thum-bands whilst young, which is the best way to keep them from the destructive Hares and Coneys.   

CHAP. XXXIV.  
Of Pruning Trees, some general Observations.  
ALthough I have showed you how to prune most sort of Trees, in each Chapter, where I showed you how to raise them, yet I shall say a little more; and all will be too little; for the Curate of Henonville tells you in his Book of the Manner of Ordering Fruit-trees, That it is a Thing very rare among Gardeners to Prune Trees well; for the doing of it well depends more upon their Ingenuity than upon their Hand: It is also very hard to give Instructions for it, because it consists not in certain and general Maxims, but varies according to the particular Circumstances of each Tree, so that it depends absolutely upon the Gardener's Prudence, who ought of himself to judge what Branches must be left, and which are fit to be cut away, etc.  
Indeed that erroneous Custom and Saying (which is among most men) of Timber-trees, not to prune them at all, or if you do, to cut off the boughs at distance from the Body, hath made many a good Fruit-tree lose its life sooner by many years than it would have done, and also hath yielded to the Owner much less and worse Fruit than it would have done: Therefore whatsoever Bough you cut off from Fruit or Forrest-tree, cut it close and smooth, and the lowest side closest, then will it not hold water, and every year the Bark will surround and overgrow the wound by little and little, till it hath quite healed the place; But if you leave a Stump, it's likely that will hold water, and make a hole into the very Body of your Tree, and so in little time make it sick and kill it, which before would bear you but little and poor Fruit: Or if the Stump hang down so that it doth not hold wet, than the Tree must be as big as that Stump is long, on all sides, before it can overgrow that place; or if the Stump rots, and breaks off, than many times it leaves a hole in the Tree, which if it tends much upward, so that it takes water, it certainly kills the Tree; and if the Tree be not a very thriving Tree, it will be very long before it overgrowes that hole, though it do not take wet: Therefore what boughs you cut off, cut them off close, unless the Tree be very old, and the boughs great, such I do not advise you to meddle with; but if you do, cut them at a distance from the Body, always remembering to let the wound be smooth, and to tend as much from the Horizon as may be. All boughs that grow upright, be they great or little, cut them not right cross over, but cut them sloping upward, and let the slope aspect the South, East or West, if it may be; and in those boughs that lean from the head, cut the slope on the lower side, the slope tending downward, so will they cover over the better; if the wound be great cover it over with some Clay, well mixed with Horse-dung to keep it from the weather, and it will cover over the sooner.  
Many a good Tree is spoilt by grafting of it in bad places, as I have seen in some hundreds, of which I have not spared (as oft as I could) to tell the Owners, but few would believe me; for sometimes they cut off great boughs, till they come to 6 Inches (or thereabouts) Diameter; there they put in four or six Grafts in the Bark, and sometimes two in the Clift, and saw the bough right cross over, though it grow upright, in which if the Grafts do grow, the head is so great, and they growing Round (as it were endeavouring to cover over the wound) make such a hollow place (like a Dish) on the Head, as holds water and kills the Tree, which is many times dead before the Grafts can cover over the head: or if the Tree doth not thrive very well, they keep that place will covered with Loom, or Clay mixed with Horse-dung, and sometimes they head the Tree very low, and thereby check it so much, that it dies in little time after: Sometimes they cut off such great boughs, and do it so ill, that though the heads grow, yet in little time these wounds kill the Tree. Though I shall not here teach you how to graft, yet let me advise you when you graft high great Trees, not to cut them too low, but to prune them up till they come to the thickness of your Arm, or less, and then graft them, for than will the Grafts soon overgrow such places.  
Leave a good many of these Heads on, according to the bigness of your Tree, that if some miss you may take them off the next Spring, and yet have enough for the Head. If you graft in the Bark, you must remember to head your Grafts about Midsummer, or else they will be subject to blow off; put your Grafts in always on the upper side, and cut upright Boughs a little sloping off, they will heal over the better; keep them from Suckers, and then you may expect good Trees and Fruit, of which I wish your Hedge-rowes were full.  
Of all sorts of Trees whatsoever, if any Roots be broke or much bruised, or cracked, cut them off till you come to firm Wood, the slope tending to the Ground like a Horsefoot; but be very sparing in cutting the Roots of Greene's, and also in cutting their heads off, yet you may proportion the Head to the Root, by cutting off some side-boughs, which cut off (if your Green be tender) the latter end of March, or in April, and cut the Bough off two or three Inches from the Body, and that time come Twelve month take off that piece close, and cover the wound with a little Wax or Clay well tempered: if your Greene's be for high Trees, endeavour to make them taper, by leaving some side-boughs to ease the head.  
In all Trees you intent for Timber, be cautious in cutting off their heads, especially those of great Piths, such as the Ash, Walnut, etc. Unless your Tree grow top-heavy, or much crooked, and then at the crooked place cut off the head sloping upward, and nurse up one of the principal shoots to be the leading Shoot, but such as are subject to die when headed, or any Tree very great, meddle not with such; the Beech is one of the worst to head of any Tree I know.  
Such Trees as you intent for to grow to a certain proposed height, you must take care to keep them taper, by leaving side-boughs in convenient place and distance to make them taper, cutting such boughs off when you find your Tree is swelled enough below; still minding to take off the greatest side-boughs and leave little ones, and to proportion your head (by keeping it small) according to the Body, and maintaining the leading Shoot, letting it have no equals; for forked Trees are never strait: Thus do till you have got your Tree to the height you intent, and there let the Head break out, and cut off all the side-boughs, but if side-boughs still break out, then give them a Summer-pruning, a little after Midsummer, and cut them off close; so will you kill them, and have a fine, stately, clear Body, and fine Timber-tree: See Chap. 10.  
Observe this in all Trees you would have grow with a handsome strait body, till you have got them to the height you intent they shall head at.  
Whilst your Trees be small you must prune them every year: The best time for most is the Spring; but hardy Trees and Wood may be pruned at any time in Winter; when they be a little older, once in two year, than once in three, and then in four, and never seldomer than once in five or six, so will the Bough be small, the Tree will soon overgrow the place, the Knot will not be great to vex the Carpenter or joiner at all, the place will not be very subject to put forth Suckers, because the Sap hath had no great recourse to that place.  
Mind always to cut off your Boughs smooth, and close to the Body: This if you please to do, you may have fine Timber, and handsome Trees, which I dare engage will pay you or yours well for your helps to them.  
The like do with your standard Fruit-trees, or those you intent for pollard's, till you have got them to the height you design they shall head at, and at setting if they be tender Trees, or Trees that have great Pith. If you must head them, let it be in the Spring, when you find they begin to bud, but than you must take care of the winds in Winter, that they shake them not so as to let the Air in to the ground, to kill the Roots, therefore tie them to good Stocks.  
Or this is a good way for Trees that have not great Piths, or are very tender; cut off some of the tops of the Boughs when you set them, so let them be till the Spring, and when you see the Bud break out, then cut them on every shoot of the head, a little above the lowest Bud or two of each shoot; so will the head shoot but with few shoots, and they will be the stronger; the head being small, the Root will endeavour to proportion it to its former greatness, or near it: but if you have many shoots break out, then cut them all off but four or five, for so many are enough to make Arms for any Tree; but if then you find the Tree to shoot too much, and grow top-heavy (as sometimes they will if well kept and on good ground,) than head the Tree again, but not so low as you did before, (for Reason ought to be used in all things; this will make your Tree swell in body much, and in time be a fine Tree: So that I say, endeavour to get a good Body; for in Fruit-trees this is to be noted, that you must in the first place endeavour to get your Tree in such a Condition as to bear you good Fruit, and a Quantity, rather than little Fruit early, and then never good Fruit or Tree after; therefore if you have a Tree that doth not thrive, but is subject to blow much (as most such Trees are) cut off the blowing Buds in the Spring, as low to a Leafy Bud as you can, and some shoots, as near the place where the Tree headed as you can; but mind to leave some Buds on the head to draw up the Sap, or else your Tree may break out in the middle of the Body, or a little above Ground; but if your Buds once shoot on the head, but half a foot, then will your Tree come away. Thus and by digging about, have I helped many a stunted Tree forward, which you may do likewise, if you please.  
I have many times observed several Fruit-trees, as Pears, Apples, etc. to be full of false-bearing Buds; I call them so because they did not blow, for the Tree having got more head than the Roots could well maintain, had not strength sufficient to spare sap for blossom, nor yet for Fruit; which by pruning and thinning the heads of such Trees, and by slitting the bark on the Body in the Spring, hath made them afterwards to bear well, when they have put forth new shoots at the head.  
And some sorts of Fruit-trees there be which will blow and bear themselves to death, when they be middle-aged, as before I told you some young ones would, if not helped by pruning; but the best ways to preserve such Trees from death, and to make them bear pretty good Fruit, is, to cut off most of the blowing Buds, and to thin the head of some boughs, to make it shoot again; then will it live many years longer, and bear better Fruit: Some Trees there be that will run so much into wood, that they will not bear of themselves till they come to be old, but if you cut off the head of the shoots as soon as ever the Spring-shoot is over, which is near Midsummer, and take out some great boughs then; if you mind your Time, and do it with discretion, you may force that Tree to put forth blowing Buds, and blow and bear the year following.  
Thus have I showed you some ways and hints of pruning Trees, though I know some that are against Pruning them at all; So are there some that are against Learning: but 'tis convenient for Trees to be pruned well, as also it is very necessary for men to be brought up in Learning; for thereby both produce much the better Fruits: therefore, 
Be gone from hence thou knotty-natured Turk,  
There's nought designed for thee within this work▪  
This was for Christians made, and such as be  
Lovers of Trees and Ingenuity;  
This was intended only for the wise,  
And none but Ignorants will it despise;  
Let fools laugh on, and wise men plant as fast,  
And see who'll have the better on't at last.   
I shall here show you what the good Esquire saith in his Discourse of Forrest-trees, pag. 74. which he quotes from an ancient Author.  'Tis a misery (saith he) to see how our fairest Trees are defaced by unskilful Woodmen, and mischievous Borderers, who go always armed with short Hand-bills, hacking and chopping off all that comes in their way; by which our Trees are made full of Knots, Boils and Cankers, to their utter destruction: Good Husbands should be ashamed of it: As much to be reprehended are those who either begin this work at unseasonable times, or so maim the poor Branches, that either out of laziness or want of skill, they leave most of them Stubs; and instead of cutting the Arms and Branches close to the Boll, back them off a foot or two from the Body of the Tree; by which Means they become ●h●low and rotten, and are as so many Conduits to receive Rain and the weather, which perishes them to the very head, deforming the whole Tree with many ugly Botches, which shorten its Life, and utterly mar the Tree. 
By this Animadversion alone it were easy for an ingenious man to understand how Trees are to be governed, which is (in a word or two) by cutting clean, smooth and close, making the stroke upward, and with a sharp Chisel or Bill, so as the weight of an untractable bough do not splice, and carry the Bark with it, which is both dangerous and unsightly; and by endeavouring to keep the Tree taper, by leaving some little Boughs on the sides.  
I have here showed you how to prune Forrest-trees, with somewhat of high Standard Fruit-trees; but if you would see more Books, then see Esquire evelyn's Discourse of Forrest-trees, and for Fruit-trees, the Curate of Henonville's Book.  
But here note, if you should have any Trees that should be stundied, or very crooked, or much cropped by cattle; the best way is not to stand to prune up such Trees to a Head, but first to fell them close at the Ground, and then they will put forth young strait shoots; one of the best you must nurse up, if you intent it for a Timber-Tree; if for under-wood, then let them grow with all the heads the Roots will put forth: The Spring is the best season for this. And thus much at present of pruning Forrest-trees; for I tell you there are more Trees spoilt by bad Lopping or Pruning, or for want of good Lopping or Pruning, than there are of all Diseases belonging to Forrest-trees, unless they be accidental, as spoiled by cattle, etc.   

CHAP. XXXV.  
Of the Diseases of Trees.  
THere be several Diseases and Casualties that do spoil Trees, which sometimes happen in the Roots, and sometimes in the Body or Head.  
1. The Roots may be the decay of the Tree; as, if they stand in Ground contrary to its Kind, as the Beech on cold Clay, and wet Ground, or the Alder on sharp dry Gravel, etc. which is contrary to each Kind, and must not thus be set.  
2. It is also a great fault to the Roots of Trees, to set those Trees which naturally love to run shallow, too deep; or indeed any other.  
3. When Ground is very stiff or Rocky, it must be digged or ploughed to make way for the Roots to run in, and contrary Earth laid round about the Trees Roots.  
4. Great weeds must not grow round the Tree, for they will rob the Roots of their Nourishment; also they must early be weeded from Seedlings, or small Plants, lest they choke them.  
5. Ivy, and Traveller's Joy, Bryany, and such Climbers, must be pulled up round your Trees, lest they pinch or make them crooked, and so spoil them.  
6. Suckers must carefully be pulled off, whensoever you see them break out, opening the Earth, so that you may well come at the place of the Root where they grow out, and then pull or cut them off close: If you find them rooted, you may set them again, but than you must observe Winter-season; but such Trees as yield Suckers from the running Roots, as the Elm, Cherry, etc. if it be in Woods, and they thin, leave some of them as you please, they will do the Tree no harm; be sure to take suckers clean off from the Body the first year.  
7. The Bodies are most commonly in danger, if Deer, Hares, or Connyes can come at them whilst they be young; therefore if you plant where Dear or Coneys are, you must take care to fence them well with Frames of wood, and look to keep them so, or else never plant at all; for in one day or night they will bark round several, especially the Ash, Line, Abele, Poplar, etc. And take great care to keep your Apples and Pears from Hares and Coneys in hard Winters, for they will spoil them all if they come at them. The best fence to secure your Trees from them, is to tie Thum-bands of Hay or Straw round them, so high as they can reach; keep this renewed early every Winter.  
8. Great Boughs ill taken off, as I have many times said before, spoils many a Tree; therefore take them off close and smooth, and not parallel to the Horizon: Cover the wound with Loom, or Clay, well mixed with Horse-dung, and keep it so covered; for if the wet fall perpendicular on such a place, it will in little time make the whole Tree hollow, by the wet getting in there, which comes by great Lops and bad Lopping; as you may see in too many Elms, Ashes, Horn-beams, etc. spoiled by such carelessness.  
9 If a Tree be Bark-bound, then slit through the Bark with your knife, from the head to the Ground: The Spring is the best season; This will do most Trees good, and no harm to any.  
10 If Worms be got between the Bark and the body of your Tree, they must be cut out; and the place done over with Loom.  
11. Cankered places, or galled, or boughs broke, are to be cut smooth, and covered over with Loom; the Canker must be cast clean out: If a great bough be broke, and the Tree old, cut it off at a distance from the Body, but little boughs close.  
12. If a Tree be blasted in part, or the whole head, cut all that is blasted or dead close off to the Quick, and take out all dead boughs: Keep Caterpillars from the heads of young Trees, lest they eat off the Leaves and Buds, and kill your Tree.  
13. Take care to destroy Moles and Mice, by Traps or Poison; for Moles will make hollow the Ground, and much harm your young Trees: Mice will eat all the Bark off round the Body in hard Winters, and kill your Tree; but mind you in time to prevent them.  
14. Rooks do destroy many a Tree, both old and young, before their time: As to old Trees by pinching off the tops, and breaking off the Buds; and young Trees by lighting on their heads; their weight breaking off their young tender shoots and Buds, causes the Trees to die; and also they destroy Seedlings where they breed; their Dung brings forth great weeds, as Nettles, etc. and so chokes the young Seedlings; therefore kill all of them you can at breeding-time, by shooting them, and setting Lime-twips on the tops of your young Trees. You'll thrive the better if you destroy them.   

CHAP. XXXVI.  
Of Felling and Ordering Woods and Coppices.  
IF you love to have a thriving Wood, and to improve it for your best Advantage, your best way is, not to let it stand too long before you fell; for the oftener you fell your under-wood, the thicker it will be; as at ten or twelve years' growth on a shallow ground, and twelve or fourteen years' growth on your deep Soil and best grounds; for there be many Inconveniencies in letting your Woods stand too long before you fell them, or Trees in Woods that do not prosper.  
First, When you let your Woods or Coppices stand long before you fell them, you cannot come to survey your Timber-trees, to see which be decaying, and in so doing you are uncharitable to your Country, no good Commonwealthsman's, no good Husband for yourself, and no good Christian: For why should any Reasonable man let his Trees stand in his Woods, or elsewhere, with dead tops, hollow Trunks, Limbs falling down upon others and spoiling them, dropping upon young Seedlings under it, and killing them? The ill husband, while many of his Neighbour's want such Timber (nay possibly he himself,) there he lets his Trees stand, which were formerly worth 10 or 5 l. a Tree, or more, till they be not worth the half that they were: Here he loseth the use of his Money, more than Twenty in the Hundred, if it be an Oak, he loses the Bark, with the use of the Ground, where 'tis likely several young Trees might have been, if that had been taken down in time.  
I know that some persons of Quality say, that this is a great Ornament to their Ground: But I think no greater than it would be to their persons to wear a Garment very Old, with half a skirt, a piece of a Sleeve, and all the Trimming off. But I shall never pronounce such Judgement against trees, having ten times more Mercy. Such as be thriving (unless they stand too thick) I would entreat you not to cut down; for you do not lose so much by suffering the Tree that is decaying, to stand; but you hinder you or yours as much in cutting down a young thriving Tree.  
There are too many men in this Kingdom, who before they sell their Estates will many times fell off all their Timber that was good, and which would have thriven well for many years, and so by the Moneys they make of that, they lengthen out the time before they sell. I wish that my Vote (though single) could persuade those men that are resolved to sell such Timber, that they would also sell their Land with it; and I do not question but the Purchaser (if a Lover of Timber, as most Purchasers are) would then give more for the Timber to stand, by at least 12 d. in the pound, rather than have another man to buy it off from his Ground. I once observed an Ash-tree in the Wood-walks at Cashiobury, which stood in the Walk that I made through the Wood-walks to Hemsteed Highway; which Ash I measured as followeth, according to the customary way of measuring by the Line of Numbers; it was a fine strait tree, tapering a little, so that I needed but to girth it in one place; it girthed just 72 Inches, and was 58 foot long, from the place where the Root was sawn off, to the place where the head was cut off: The fourth part of 72 Inches, is 18 Inches.  

The Rule is as 12,  
To 18 the Square in Inches,  
So is 58, foot the Length  
To a fourth Number;   
And that fourth Number tells you the content in feet, etc. Extend the Compasses, one point fixed in 12, (the side in Inches of a superficial foot square) to 18 Inches the square of the Tree; keep the Compasses fixed, and set one point on 58 the Length of the Tree in feet, (but it must be the 58 on the left hand, or else the Compasses will go off the Rull) and then turn the Compasses twice to the Right hand, and the last movable point of the Compasses will fall upon 130 foot, and something above a half; but that Division is so small, a man cannot read well how much it is, if it be above half a foot: This is the customary way with most men to measure trees, though it makes less than there is, which in reason ought to be considered in the price, and not in the false measure: but I will here show you how to work both the customary and the true way, by the Rules of Natural Arithmetic; that so you may try whether you have measured right by the Rule and Compass, or no; and also that you may see the sweet Agreement between Geometry and Arithmetic.  
And first to work it by the customary way; here we take the fourth part of the Circumference to be the side of the square of the Tree, (though erroneous) and measure it as a Cylinder. The fourth part of 72 In. is 18 In. which multiplied in its self, gives 324, the superficial Inches of one end:  
Then 58 (the Length) multiplied by 12, giveth 696 Inches, the Length of the Tree in Inches;  
And 696 Inches multiplied by 324 Inches, gives 225504, the square Inches, which sum divided by 1728 (the square Inches in a solid foot) gives 130 foot and a half.  
I thought by the point of the Compasses it had been a little above ½ a foot, but it is just half a foot:  
Thus having showed you, both by Lines and Numbers, what there was of this Tree the customary way, I shall here show how many foot of Timber there is in it, the true way, still supposing it to be a Cylinder, that is, a round Figure of equal Circumference in all parts: there be several ways to measure it, as by having the Circumference, or by having the Diameter at the End, or by having the side of a square equal to the Base thereof; but we having the Circumference, which is 72 Inches, I shall proceed that way:  
And first by the Rule and Compasses, the Circumference being 72 Inches: and the Length 696 Inches; how many solid feet are there in such a tree? 

As is the standing Number 147: 36,  
To the Circumference 72 Inches,  
So is the Length in Inches 696  
To a fourth Number:    
And from that to the Content in feet, 166, and near half; that Division being so small it cannot well be read on a two-foot Rule.  
Extend the Compasses from the 147 ●6/●●0 point, to 72 on the left hand; keep the Compasses fixed, and set one point on the Number 696 (the Length in Inches;) and then turning your Compasses twice from that Number towards the left hand, the point will fall upon 166. and near a half, the solid Content in feet:  

Or more easily thus: As is the standing Number 42. 54.  
To 72 Inches the Circumference,  
So is 58 foot (the Length,)  
To a fourth, and that fourth to 166 foot and a ½ fore.   
Extend the Compasses from 42. 54, to 72 the Circumference in Inches, that Extent will reach from 58 foot (the Length) to another Number, and from that Number to 166 foot and somewhat more, but how much more I shall show you with my Pen, and the ordinary way of working; though Log. is much easier, but some may not have tables, or not understand them if they have.  
Now having the Circumference given, which is 72 Inches, we must find the Diameter, and the Rule is,  
As 22 is to 7, so is 72 to 22 91/100 Inches, the Diameter near 23, as here it is wrought:  
Or you may do it by two turns of your Compasses;  
Extend your Compasses from 22 to 7: the same Extent will reach from 72. to near 23; for it wants but 2. of 22:  
Or, if you will have it in more exact terms, then,  
Now for the Content of the Head, multiply half the Circumference by half the Diameter, and it giveth the superficial Content,  
This multiplied by 696 (the Length of the Tree in Inches) giveth the solid Content in Inches, and that sum divided by 1728 (the Inches in a Cubical Foot,) showeth you how many foot and parts are in the tree.  
The whole Content in Cube-feets is about 166, and a little more; for if you come within ¼ of a foot in such sums as this, with the Rule and Compasses, 'tis well.  
When this Tree was sawn off a little above the Root, I told just 72 annual Circles; some of them were the greatest that I ever yet saw in any tree, and those were about the middle of its Age; some three made above one Inch, so that the tree than did grow above two Inches in Diameter in three years' time; but at first and of late, for some 6 or 7 years it did increase but little; for it was near at its full growth, so that if you multiply 12 the Semi-Diameter (for it was 24 Inches at the Root-end) by 6, it gives you 72, so that it did grow one year with another 2 Inches in 6 year, or one Inch in Diameter in three years.  
I do not bring this Tree in for its Greatness, but for its quick growth, and fine Length of Timber, which was helped by its situation, it standing in a Valley, and set round with many other great trees. If this tree had been sold alone, it being such a strait Tree, and such a tough grain (for your great grand Trees are always the toughest) to some Pike-maker, etc. it had been worth 1 s. 6 d. the foot, at which price the very timber comes to 09 l. 15 s. 09 d. then the Head and Roots would well pay for the Stocking and making up the wood, and make up this sum Ten pound too.  
I do not bring this to compare with Trees that are and have been; for the ingenious Author in his Discourse of Forrest-trees, pag. 84. tells you of a Tree worth 50 l. as affirmed by Capt. Bullock; but I mention it to show those that love Trees, what Profit a thriving tree brings them yearly: And I dare affirm, that they had better pay Use for Money, than cut down a tree that stands in a good place, and is in a good thriving Condition: therefore if your trees be growing and increase in shoot, be not too hasty in felling, and when they are decaying it is too late, therefore let them not decay too long before you fell them.  
When your Wood is come to the growth you intent to fallen at, if your Wood be thick of wood, then fell the Timber-trees and underwood as close to the ground as you can; but if your wood be thin, than stock up your trees, especially if great timber; and the Winter after, into these holes where you stocked up the trees, set Elm, Cherry, Poplar, Sarvice, and Sallow-Cuttings; so will these trees, which are subject to grow from the running Roots, thicken your woods: the Roots will pay for the stocking; you will save a soot or two of the best of timber, and the Roots of other wood will grow the better in the loose ground where you made the holes: whereas the old Roots would keep the Ground from nourishing, or any from growing there for many years. If your Ground be a shallow Soil, do not fill up the holes quite, but set in some Running wood, the Ground being deep by the hills, will make the other wood grow better, and the ends of several Roots being cut, will shoot forth at the sides of the hole, and the holes will receive Seeds which the wind will blow into them, and there being weeds to choke them they will grow well.  
For these Reasons I stocked up all the great trees which we felled in our Wood at Cashiobury, and I set in an Elm and a Cherry by the sides of the holes, and the Spring after there came out of the side-roots of Maple, Cherry, etc. which made good shoots, and many Sallows came up in the holes, whereby our Woods were very well thickened, to the Conteut of my ingenious Lord, though many people were much against it, because it was not used so to be done.  
If your Wood be thin, at every felling lay some boughs, which are most convenient, into the thin places; and before next fall you will have them well rooted, and good shoots from them; A man will do a great many in one day, for which you will be well satisfied in time.  
December and January is the best time to fell Timber, but the Oak in April; if you would have the Bark, when the Moon is decreasing, and the wind not East.  
When the Stubs of your underwoods are grown great, stock them up: This is found to be good Husbandry with us in Hartfordshire, which they call Runting their Woods; it makes way for Seedlings, and young Roots to run the better: Do this at felling-time, wheresoever you have felled Trees at the Ground. When the Roots begin to rot they then come up best, than stock them all up, the other Wood will grow the better, and they will pay you well for your Charge; they will cost you about 6 s. a Stack, and here they will be worth 12 s. or more, when stocked up.  
When you fell your Woods or Coppices, cut them smooth and close to the Stub, and a little slanting upwards, as I advised you about Lopping pollard's: the oftener you fell your Woods, Coppices, or Hedges, the thicker they will grow; for every felling gives way to the young Seedlings to get up, and makes the weak Plants shoot strong. Those Woods which increase by running Roots, as Elm, Cherry, Poplar, Maple, Sarvice, etc. which thicken your wood much: And Felling makes the Roots of a tree to swell, as Lopping doth the Body; and so it produceth the greater shoots, and comes sooner to perfection: Whereas great wood, and old, and ill taken off from the Stub, many times kills all.  
When you fell your Woods, leave young Trees enough; you may take down the worst that stand, next fall; especially near a great tree that you judge may go down next fall, for by its fall it may spoil some: The Statute saith, you are to leave twelve score Oaks at every Fall, on an Acre; for want of them, so many Elms, Ashes, Beeches, etc. But leave according to the thinness of your wood, and where underwood sells well, there let your Timber-trees stand the thinner; and in such Countries where Coals are cheap, and Timber sells well, there let your Timber-trees stand thick, and then they will need but little pruning up.  
Endeavour to plant in your Woods such sorts of Wood as the Ground is most proper for; if wet, then Alder, Sallow, Willow, Withy, etc. if shallow and dry, Ash, Cherry, Beech, Poplar, etc. if shallow and wet, Hornbeam, Sallow, Sarvice, etc. but remember that the Oak and Elm be entertained in all places. If your Woods or Coppices be in Parks where you lie open to Deer, then at every Fall plant in them such woods whose Barks the Deer do not much love, such are the Hornbeam, Hasel, Sycamore, etc. When Trees are at their full growth, there be several Signs of their Decay, which give you warning to fallen it before it be quite decayed: As in an Oak, when the top-boughs begin to die, than it begins to decay: In an Elm or Ash, if their head dies, or if you see they take wet at any great Knot, which you may know by the side of the Tree being discoloured below that place before it grows hollow; or if hollow, you may know by knocking it with the head of an Axe, of which you may be the surer satisfied by boring into the middle of it with a small Auger; or if you see the Nighills make holes in it: these be certain Signs the Tree begins to decay, but before it decays much, down with it, and hinder not yourself.   

CHAP. XXXVII.  
How to take the height of a Tree several ways, the better to judge the worth of them, etc.  
HAving showed you how you may judge of Timber, whether it be sound or not, in the last Chapter, I will now show you how to take the height, that you may the better know the worth of it; for where you have a Rule to go by, you may then the better guess.  
There be several ways to take the Altitude of a Tree or Building that is perpendicular: as by a two-foot Rule, or two Sticks joined in a right Angle, (that is square as the Figure A. B. C. having at A. a pin or hole to hang a Thread and Plummet on.  
Suppose you were to take the height of X Y, first then hold that end of your square marked with C. to your Eye, then go backward or forward, till the Thread and Plummet hang just upon the middle of your Square, perpendicular, and your eye looking through two sights, or two Pins at A. and C. or over the ends of the Square, thus look to the very top of the Building at X.  
(See Fig. 8, 9)  
Which found, with a Line and Plummet from your Eye at C, let fall to the Ground at D, measure the length of that Line, and add it to the height, that Length to E; then measure the distance from E. to the foot of the Altitude, as at Y, and that (if your Ground be level) is the height of of X. Y.  
Or take the Level from your Eye to the height, and add that which is below the Level to the Height, etc. as the Line C. F. showeth.  
To find the height of a Tree, etc. by a strait Staff, or by a Line and Plummet, the Sun shining, the Altitude perpendicular, and the Ground Level; if not, you must make the end of both the shadows levelly to each foot, which is soon done.  
As if I should take the Level of B. at C. finding the very top of the shadow to End there, I measure the Distance from C. to B. and find it 60 foot; then at that very instant I set up a stick perpendicular, as E. D. 12 foot long, which I find to cast a shadow just 9 foot; and then the Rule order itself thus: As 9 foot to 12, so 60 foot to 80, which you will find true, if you work it by Logarithmes, or by Rule and Compass thus; Set one point on 9, extend the other to 12, that Extent will reach from 60 to 80: Or if you work it by Natural Arithmetic: as 9 is to 12, so 60 to 80.  
(See Fig. 10.)  
The same may be done by Line and Plummet.  

To take the Altitude or height by a Bowl of Water, or by a Lookingglass placed parallel to the Horizon.  
Place on the Ground a Bowl of Water, or a Looking-glass, at a convenient distance from the Building or Tree, as far as you think the height is, then go back till you espy in the middle of the Water or Glass, the very top of the Altitude; which done, keep your standing, and let a Plum-line fall from your Eye till it touch the Ground, which gives the height of your Eye from the Ground. 2. Measure the distance from your Plummet to the Middle of the water. 3. The distance from the middle of the water to the foot of the Altitude.  
Which Distances, if you have measured exactly strait and level, by Proportion you may find the Altitude required, thus:  
As the distance from the Plummet levelly to the Centre of the Water or Glass  
Is to the height of your Eye from the Ground, which is the Length of your Plum-line,  
So is the distance from the Centre of the Water to the Base or foot of the Altitude exact perpendicular, to the very top of the height which gave the shadow to the Altitude; for if your Object be not upright, and you measure strait and level, and just under the top that gave the shadow: If you miss in any one of these, you are quite out in taking the height.  

Example.  
Suppose the Altitude A. B. the Glass or Bole of Water imagine to stand at the prick in the square C. you standing at D. your Eye at E. seeth the top A. in the middle of the square, your distance from D. to the middle of the square, is 7 foot and a half:  
Your distance from your Eye to the Ground E. D. 5 foot.  
The Distance from the middle of the square to the prick at the foot or base B. is 120 foot.  
(See Fig. 11.)  
As 7.5: is to 5, so is 120 to 80 foot; or add a cipher to the 600, and a cipher to the 7 foot and ½, and divide as before.  
Thus may you take the height exactly.    

To take an Altitude accessible, at one station, by the Quadrant.  
Suppose A. B. the Altitude as before, take your Quadrant, and looking through the sights thereof go nearer or further from the Altitude, till you see the top at A. through your sights; and also that your thread at the same time fall just at the same distance, upon 45 degrees of the Limb of the Quadrant, then measure the distance, upon a level Line from your Eye, to the Altitude from the place where you stood, and if the Altitude be perpendicular that distance is the height.  
But if it happen so that you cannot take sight at that distance, then go nearer the Altitude, till the thread fall upon 63 deg. 26 min. in the Limb; this distance being doubled, and your height from your Eye to the Ground added, makes the height of the Altitude; if the Ground where you stand be level with the foot of the Altitude; if not, you must make it level.  
Or if you find it most convenient to take your sight at a greater distance than where the Line or Thread hangs or falls upon 45 degrees, then go to the Compliment of the last Examp. of 63 deg. 26, till the thread hang upon 26 deg. 34 min. in the Limb; the distance being measured, and the height of your Eye upon a level to the Altitude added, makes double the height of the Altitude.  
These Rules be so plain, there needs no more Examp. but the larger your Quadrant, the better; and note that if the ground be not level, you must find the Level from your Eye to the foot of the Altitude; and also measure the distance upon a level and strait Line, always minding to add what is below the level of your Eye, to the distance measured.  
When you take an Altitude, make use of two of these Rules; the one will confirm the other; for the Rules are all true in themselves; therefore be you so in working them.  
Thus having showed you how to take an Altitude by the most useful Instrument, the Quadrant; I shall now show you how to do it by the Doctrine of Triangles: And if you would be more satisfied in that most useful and pleasant study, read these Learned men's Works: Mr. Bridges Trigonometria Britannica, Mr. Gellibrans' trigonometry, Mr. Wings Astronomia Britannica, his Geodatus Practicus, Mr. Wingates Use of the Rule of Proportion in Arithmetic and Geometry, or Mr. Newtons' Trigonometria Britannica, pag. 51. whose Rules I shall observe, though the Examp. be my own, and as before, to take the height of a Tree.  
The Angles and one Leg given to find the other in the Rectangular Triangle A. B. C. the Leg B. C. is inquired.  
The Terms of proportion are thus:  

As the Radius  
To the Leg given,  
So the Tangent of the Angle conterminate with the given Leg  
To the Leg inquired.    

Illustration by Numbers.  

As the Radius:— 10.0000000  
To the Leg A. B. 80.— 1.9030893  
So is the Tangent of B. A. C. 45 d. 10.0001515  
To the Leg B. C. gives 80: 028/1000 1.9032408:   
(See Fig. 12.)  
You see the difference is not the 28th part of 1000 and it is worth minding how it doth exactly agree with the first Examp. of the Quadrant, etc.  
It may be wrought otherwise thus:  

As is the Sign of the Angle opposite to the given Leg  
To the Sign of the Angle opposite to the Leg inquired,  
So the Leg given  
To the Leg inquired.   

Or thus:  
As the Tangent of the Angle opposite to the given Leg  
Is to the Radius,  
So is the Leg given  
To the Leg inquired.   
Thus have I showed you how to take the height of a Tree, or any other Altitude, several ways; now if you would judge the worth of a Tree standing, first take the height to the very top, or near it; then take the Height of the Length of Timber, so far as your Reason tells you you might measure it if it were down; subtract the Length of the Timber from the Length of the height of the whole Tree, there then remains the Length of the head. Thus have you the Length of the Timber and Head; Next of all set a Ladder to your Tree, and girt it in such place as is most convenient, allowing for the Bark; then according to the customary way of measuring, you may know the Quantity of the Timber, and so consequently the worth of the Timber, according to the price where the Timber is standing.  
The Timber of the Tree may thus, easily, and near to the Quantity be guessed at: The head will be more difficult, because of the different Forms they grow in; and besides, some Timber-trees head much lower than others, so that for want of helping up, either by their not standing near others to draw or help one another up, or for want of pruning up while young, they head low, and run into great Arms of good lengths of Timber; with such Trees you must go the higher into the Arms, accounting them with the Timber as your Reason will best direct you.  
Now then to estimate this head by Rule, I do judge, that if all the boughs of the head of most Trees were in an entire piece, from the place where they were cut off from the Timber, to the very top; the nearest (and I suppose exactest) Figure of any would be a Cone, or near to a Conical form that the head ends in: For we see that when a Tree is headed, it breaks out into a great many shoots, and as the Tree grows higher in the Lop, some of these shoots decay, still the more endeavouring to end in the figure of a Conical Body: and so the head of your Pollard-trees being greater than the Body, is occasioned by the Sap swelling that place, endeavouring to break out nearest to where it was accustomed to go up the boughs, it searcheth for a passage, till it can contain itself no longer, and so swells the head.  
This head commonly goeth with the boughs, and doth the better help them to be allowed this Form, whilst young; so that take a tree headed or never headed, it still ends in this Figure, nearer than any other, especially those that never were headed: this being then the nearest Figure part of the head can be reduced into, this being granted, it is as easily measured; for if you multiply the Basis by one third of the Altitude, the solid Content of the Figure is had, which you may value at such a price as Firewood beareth with you.  
I will give you one Example, and it shall be of an Ash, which was felled in a place called the Old Orchard, by the Stables at Cashiobury: This tree I observed by several of the Rules before, and found it to be 80 foot high from the ground to the top-shoot; I also observed the height of the Timber to be 56 foot long; by the same Rules then, setting a Ladder to this Tree about 25 foot high, I girthed it with a packthread (which place I took for the middle girth being the Tree did not taper) and it girthed 64 Inches upon the Bark; But most men that buy timber by the foot, have the Bark taken off at the girthingplace, or an Allowance for the Bark; but you may readily know the girth of the Tree under the Bark, though the Tree be standing or lying, without ever taking off the Bark, or making Allowance by guess, as some do; which to perform, find with your Penknife, or Prickers, the thickness of the Bark, or you may cut a hole thorough the Bark in the girthing-places, or two or three holes, and then observe the mean thickness: As on the foresaid Tree, the Bark was half an Inch thick, doubled makes one Inch, so then the tree is less by one Inch in the Diameter when the Bark is off; then by this general Rule, as 22 is to 7, so is the Circumference to the Diameter.  

Examp. by the Line of Numbers.  
Extend your Compasses from 22 to 7, the same extent will reach from 64 to 20 and near a half, for the Diameter of the Circumference of 64.   

Examp. by Arithmetic.  
As 22 to 7, so is 64 to 20 8/22, the Diameter.  
But the Bark taking one Inch off from this Diameter, it is then 19 Inches and 8/22; then to find the true Circumference under the Bark, agreeing to this Diameter; say thus, As 7 to 22, so is 19 8/22, to 61, the Circumference, or near it.  
For if you extend the Compasses from 7 to 22, the same will reach from 19 8/22 to 61, very near.  
Or you may turn this 8 into a Decimal Fraction, for as 22 is to 100, so is 8 to 36 of 100 and near a ½.  
Thus by four turns of your Compasses on the Line of Numbers you may in a moment find the Circumference under the Bark, which here we find to be 61, then according to the customary way of measuring, (though not the true way) take one fourth part of the Circumference, and say, As 12 is to this ¼ part of the Circumference in Inches, so is the Length in feet twice repeated, to the content in feet or parts.   

Examp.  
The fourth part of 61 is 15 and ¼ Inches, extend your Compasses from the point 12. on your Line of Numbers, to 15 ¼: that extent will reach from 56 to 91 foot and near a half, being twice turned to the Right hand, which must always be if the ¼ of your Circumference be more than 12 Inches, if less, then to the Left hand.  
Thus having found the Timber of this Tree to be 91 foot and a half (which must be valued according to the worth of Timber in the place where you are) here I will value it at 12 d. the foot, (though it was sold with courser Timber at an under-price) this at 12 d. the foot, cometh to 4 l. 11 s. 6 d. Now to measure the head of this Tree according to our supposed Rule aforesaid, if you take 56 (the Length of the Timber) from 80 (the height of the Tree) there remains 24 foot for the head: This 24 foot, which is the head, two parts of it I measure as a solid Cylinder, and one part as a Cone: for if you girt all the boughs a little above where they break out from the Timber, and add the several girths together, they will girth more than the Timber where the head was cut off; two parts of the 24 foot is 16, which I measure by the same Rule I did the Timber, by the Line of Numbers, and the same Girt.  
As 12 is to 15½ (the square in Inches,)  
So is 16 (the Length in feet twice repeated) to 26 foot ¾ for the ⅔ of the Head:  
Now for the ⅓ of the Head, which must be measured as a solid Cone, we must find the Basis, and multiply the Content thereof by one third of the Altitude.  
The Circumference of the Basis was 61, but I will take it now for 60 Inches; then as before, As 22 is to 7, so is 60 (the Circumference) to the Diameter, which is 19 and a little more; that which is more I neglect, as not worth minding in such a business as this.  
Half 60 is 30, half 19 is 9 and ½. Ex. to work it by the Line of Numbers:  
Extend the Compasses from 1 to 9 and ½, the same will reach from 30 to 285, the Content in Inches of the Basis, than ⅓ of 8 foot is 32 Inches;  
Then say, As 1 to 32, so is 285 to 9120 Inches, which divided by 1728 (the In. in one foot square) is 5 foot and ¼, and a little more; this added to 26 foot ¾, make 32 foot for the Head, which at a Groat per foot, is 10 s. 8 d. But this must be valued according the Country you are in.  
So according to these Rules, this Tree was worth 5 l. 2 s. 2 d. there was of the Head one Stack, and near a quarter, and 12 Faggots; it cost 3 s. per Stack to cut out, and was worth in the place where it stood, 10 s. You see how near the Rule agrees with this tree; but if the tree stands hanging down hill, it will then endanger the Timber in falling; or if you fear the Timber to be faulty, or some of the Arms blown off, you must judge-accordingly, etc.  
It is oft found in your great Elms and Ashes, that they be hollow within and yet good Timber on the outsides, especially some length of them toward or at the lower end: Now I will show you how you may judge very near the Quantity of Timber that is in one of these trees, or a piece of them, according to the customary way.   

Examp.  
A piece of a Tree 12 foot long, and hollow and decayed wood at one end 12 Inches Diameter, at the other end hollow and decayed 6 Inches Diana. The piece was 26 Inches Diameter under the Bark. First I measure the piece as if all sound Timber, than the hollow and decayed by its Diameter; that being deducted from the piece, sheweth how much found Timber there is in foot and parts, measured the customary way.  
As 7 to 22, so 26 to 81 5/7 the Circumference; the ¼ of it is 20 and ¼, and somewhat more: as 12 to 20 ¼ in Inches, so is 12 (the Length in feet twice Repeated) to 39 foot and ½, the Content as if it were all sound.  
Then for the hollow, I take the mean Diameter to be 9 In. As 7 to 22, so 9 to 28 and 2/7, the Circumference of the hollow ¼ is 7 In. then as 12 to 7, so 12 foot to 4 and ¼ near; which taken from 39 foot and ½, leaves 35 foot and ¼ for the sound Timber of that piece.     

CHAP. XXXVIII.  
Of making Walks, Avenues, or Lawns.  
AS for making of Walks in Gardens, I shall not speak of that in this place, because I have resolved to keep my walk without the walls: there are several Books of Gardening that have many Drafts and Knots in them, but they be all done by guess, and none of them fitted to a scale, to inform what Ground they be most proper for; so that they be as fit for Butter-Prints as for Knots in a Garden.  
Most Walks that are made abroad, they either terminate, or end, or lead to the Front of a House, or Door, or Garden-gate, or other Gate, Highway, or Wood, etc. Now if you would make a Walk from any one of these, and have resolved upon the Centre or Middle Line of the Walk, as the Middle of a Door in the Front of a house, or the like, there pitch up a strait stake, and then from the square of the Front, etc. raise a Perpendicular from this Stake, and at a convenient distance in this perpendicular Line, set up another stake; let these two stakes be two little stakes at first, but that at the Centre always the highest; these two stakes being thus fixed, and you fully concluding them to be in the Mid-line, then come to the Centre-stake, and having in readiness a Quantity of Stakes, according to the Length of your Walk, bid one of your assistance go as far as you can well see back-sight and foresight, and there by the motion of your hand or hat, and his own back-sight, let him fix upright one stake as exactly as may be in the Line, then take up the two little stakes, and at the Centre fix in a stake six foot high, strait and upright, with paper on the top, and exactly in the place where the little stake stood: Thus having got two stakes placed (the Middle-stake and the Centre-stake,) you may if your Walk be level, and the ground clear, and the Walk not above one mile long, set up one stake at the End, in the Mid-line; looking over the head of that stake and the other, moving it till these three stakes be in a Right Line; so may you have the middle line of your walk by these three stakes exacter than by more: for the fewer stakes you use in your mid-line, the better; because that if you be but once a little amiss, the more stakes are used, you will be so much the further out of the right way.  
And note, it is better to take your sight over the head of your stakes, than to look by their sides; therefore you must have the Centre stake highest, the next a little shorter, and so the next shorter than that, etc. but if your Ground be not level, than order your stakes accordingly, as thus:  
And if your Ground be not level, or be of such a length, that you cannot well see from End to End, than you must place down more stakes, viz. between the Middle-stake and Centre-stake one, and between the Middle and End-stake one, if need require more. I have oft made use of a sight-stake, which I had only to find the place where my other stakes should stand; this stake was made with a slit in the head half a foot deep, which I looked through over the heads of the rest, till I found the place where to set my stake right in the Mid-line: It is of good use, and Fig. 13. may somewhat represent it; you may make it to slide up and down, the better to come to the Level of the head of the stakes.  
(See Fig. 13.)  
When you take sight, to set any stake true in a Line with others, stand at a little distance with your Eye from the head of the stake, so shall you set it Exacter in the Line than when your Eye touches the head of the stake; set your stake so that you may only see three stakes in a Line: let your Walk be of what length it will.  
Having thus staked out your Mid-line, strain a Line in this Mid-line, and lay a square to that Line, so set off the breadth of your Walk exactly square to your Middle-line, then set up stakes (as you did) against every stake in the Middle of the Walk, and when you have got the Lines true, where your Trees must stand, then drive down Oak-stakes in the Line to the head, and then it is but putting down high stakes by these when you come to set your Trees.  
Then having resolved on the distance to set your Trees at, and provided good store of small stakes, take your Chain (and not a Line, for that will retch and shrink) and with your help set little stakes downright in this Line, and square where you would have every Tree to stand, these stakes are to make your holes by, which I would have at least three foot wide, and two foot deep, and the holes made a Quarter of a Year before you set your Trees; if it were a year 'twere the better, keeping the Mould turned over now and then, and mixing it with Earth or Dung, if need be; then when the time of Planting is come, begin betimes; however, on dry ground; set up Stakes by every Oak-stake you left in the Row before, having pruned the Roots and Heads to an equal height, set them right one Tree against another square.  
And if your Trees be not all of one Size, set the greatest first, right one against another, and so lesser and lesser by degrees, minding that both Rows go on square together; and be sure you mind to let your Trees be at equal distance from End to End; then if you have a point fixed at both Ends, you must run over that distance you resolve to plant your Trees at, before you set your Stakes, and if you find it is over or short of equal distances, then must you add or subtract this odd open to or from the rest, to make them all of equal distance. See Chap. 33.  
Now having your Trees and all things in Readiness, set them by the Stakes standing in the Rows, minding to set every Tree to range with the Stakes by back-sight and foresight: Cover and part the Roots with fine Mould; and when they be all covered, lay on some Rotten Dung over that Mould, and then cover that Dung with a little Mould: this Dung will keep them from friezing in Winter, and from drying too much in Summer; and also well prepares the water for the Roots. Thus having set them, take care to fence them in at such places where need is, so will you as well as I reap a great satisfaction, if you let not the Dung touch the Roots.  
Do not mask a fine Front, nor veil a pleasant Prospect (as too many do) by making the Walks too narrow. If you make any Walk that leads to any pleasant Front of a House, or other Object; if it be but half a mile long, let it be at least forty foot wide, but if longer, more, as 50 or 60 foot wide, or the breadth the length of your Front; But if you be for walks of shade, then make three Walks, the middle one 40, the two outside walks each 20 foot, or 50 and 25 the outside walks, or divide your Front into two parts, and let the middle be as broad as both the side-walks; so that if you make three walks together, let the middle one be as much as both the other, so will the Trees range much the better, whether you set them square or triangular; but however keep to one of them, though I think the square to be the best, because then four Trees in the four Rows end all together, fit to end in either Semicircle, segment of a Circle, Oval, Triangle, or Circle; for all walks of any Length, especially in Parks, should end in some one of these Figures, or lead into some other walk; but where they do fall into another walk, there should be a Circle to receive them, or else they seem much defective.  
I shall now endeavour to show you how to make a walk through a wood, and then I will give you an Example of some of the Figures that Walks aught to end in.  
Suppose you were to clear a Walk or Line through a Wood, for to run the Mid-line true about three yards wide; having the Centre given, do as before, run your Mid-line as far as you can into the wood, and at one yard distance on each side the Mid-line, two other Lines; Run these Lines also as far as you can into the wood, keeping them just one yard distant, and setting up stakes (as you proceed into the wood) with large whites, all of a bigness, as half a sheet of white Paper on every Stake spread abroad; when any of these three Lines come to a Tree, run on the other two till you are passed the Tree, and then set him off again in its place, parallel to his fellows, and so proceed till you be through the Wood, marking that wood which must go down; then when your under-wood is stocked up, run out your Line again; still when you come to a Tree, set off Parallels; and when past, set off into your true Line again: This way I cut a strait Line through the Wood-walk at Cashiobury, from the North front, over one wall and several Hedges, near a mile long, and when I came to stake it out true, there was at the very end not four foot difference, as the ingenious Hugh May Esq; can witness, and several others.  
This way of staking out a walk by three Lines is worth your practising; in setting out of Walks that go through Hedges or Bushes, be sure to carry on the Mid-line of the walk, and the two Lines where the Trees must go, together; now and then measuring to see if they keep their equal distances, and that which is amiss you will soon find, and may as soon rectify it again.  
There is another way of carrying a strait Line through a Wood, which Reason taught me, and by Experience I have found true: the place where the middle of the walk should point to, being given, there hang up a large Candle and Lantern, and having found the Mid-line some 20, 30, or 40 yards from that, there hang up another, they must both hang pretty high, but let that next the House or Centre be the higher; having thus placed your two Lights, and in a clear calm night (but not too light) go with your Man to the further side of the wood, till you make both these Lights in one Line, and then walk on, keeping them so, marking the Trees on each side of you, quite through the Wood, order them to be cut down at leisure; so shall you have a strait Line cut through the Wood  
But if you are to make a walk from Gate to Gate, so that you are tied to such a Centre at each End, if your walk be so that you can see from End to End, it is then but setting up two Stakes, one at each end, by the sight of which cause a third to be set up in the middle: But if you cannot see to the far End, for Hill, Wood, or the like, than you must cause an high Pole, with a white on the top, to be set up at the End, by that and your Centre-stake cause your Assistants to set up as many as you think convenient in the Mid-line; but if that wood be so▪ high that you cannot see a high Pole at the End, then run it over as near as you can by guess, take notice of the Length, and of your Error at End and ¼ and ½ and ¾ each; at a Quarter of the Length of your walk set off a quarter of your Error, etc. And thus bring your Line till it ranges exactly from one point to another, from Gate to Gate; then set off the two Lines where the Trees must go (as is before showed) by the square, and if for three walks, than the four Rows of Trees; if there be three Walks, let the Middle-walk be just as broad as both the other, which is the best Form; or else all three of equal breadth, so may you set your Trees not only square, but they will answer one another several ways beside, as square from A. to B. and other ways, as B. to C. and to D. so that every Tree must keep his Row, Range, Square, and equal Distance, etc.  
(See Fig. 14.)  
The pricked Lines show how the sight will take the Trees as square from A. to B. and Angle-wayes from C. to B. or C. to D. etc.  
Thus have I showed you how to stake out the Mid-line, and the two side-lines of your walk: I wish Sir E. T. Sir W. B. and Sir R. B. had seen these Directions before they had planted their walks; I do judge they then would have done them better: For Errors in planting make too many worthy Persons forbear.  
Now as for the Figures which walks aught to end in, I have named them before; and if you observe, most Plants (especially Trees) which make your Walks, the most of them end in a Circular figure; and therefore I will show you some ways how Walks ought to end in a Circle: For a walk ending bluntly without any Figure or entering into another, may be compared to a Tree with the Head off, and what difference there is, let those which well observe the Objects of Nature judge. Let the Circle be three times the Breadth of your walk, if conveniently you can, or bigger if you have Room.  
After you have found the Mid-line, and resolved upon the Centre, as at A. and of the Bigness of your Circle, next consider of the Distance of your Trees round the Circle; run that distance over first, and if you find an odd Tree, let it stand in the Mid-line, and in the Circumference, as at B. but if no odd Tree, then let the Mid-line pass 'tween two Trees, adding or substracting the odd Inches, till you find the equal distance your Trees must stand at, etc.  
(See Fig. 15.)  
Let the Trees in your Circle stand not much above half the distance that the Trees are in the Rows, as in the last they were 16 foot ●ere, Trees in the walk 24 foot, but in the Oval thicker, that they may show the Figure the better; A fine Tree in the Centre of all Circles doth well.  
(See Fig. 16.)  
Two Walks meeting in a Point, let that be the Centre of the Circle, as at A. and there a Tree.  
Two Walks crossing one another, where the Mid line meets let that be the Centre of a Circle, as B.  
Note: That if your Circle be divided into two parts, by Walks, as the Circle A. find a distance that the Trees in each part may stand as near that distance as may be, there they be near 11 foot both, and the Circle B. near 10 foot asunder.  
Now the smaller parts the Circle is put into, the thicker set your Trees round it; as B. is put into four parts by the two Walks crossing it; set these parts the thicker that they may show the Figure the better.  
Of three Walks going up to a Circle, as they do to the Bowling-Green at Cashiobury (which Green is 80 yards, or 240 foot diameter, with a border 16 foot wide, planted with three Rows of Spruce-firs, set in the year 1672. being set Circular and Triangular,) see the Figure: there are 90 trees in the outer Row, and 90 Trees in the innermost Row, and 89 in the middle Row, which is 269 trees; I lost not one of these, except one that was stolen.  
(See Fig. 17.)  
To plant such a Border, first with a Line on the Centre B. mark out the Circle where the inner Row should go, than set two Trees in the Circle, and in the Rows of the Walk, as at A. A. then having resolved of the distance to set them at, run that Distance over from A. A. and the odd Inches or parts add or subtract, according to the Number of the Opens, to or from the Measure you first resolved on, as is showed before, etc.  
1. Next I shall show you some ways how Walks may come into or end in a Semicircle, or Segment of a Circle, etc. as A. being a Gate, B. C. is a Hedge or Pale, A. is the Centre of the middle of the Walk and Circle.  
(See Fig. 18.)  
Or thus: The Centre at A. and then three Trees or more to go to the Pale parallel to the Walk, as 1, 2, 3.  

2. How three Walks may come into a Semicircle:  
(See Fig. 19)  
This may be continued on with three or more Trees parallel to the Mid-line, as in Fig. 19, etc.   

3. How three Walks may break into a Semicircle at three several places, and how to make the Semicircle so great, as that you may have just so much Wood on all sides of the Walks, as the Walks are broad, or to order it to what proportion you please.  
Suppose the three Walks to be each forty foot wide, which makes 120 foot, than there is to be 40 foot without one side-walk, and 40 foot without the other side-walk, and 40 foot between each of the side-walks, and the Middle-walk, which is four times 40 foot, that is, 160 foot; so that the 120 foot makes 280 foot for the Arch of this Semicircle, then find the Semi-diameter to the Arch of this Circle, and strike the Arch from the Centre.  
Ex. The Semi-circumference being 280, the Circumference is then 560.  
Then as 22 is to 7, or if you will be more Exact (as the Learned Oughtred in his Circles of Proportion, pag. 43. saith) as 3.1416 is to 1. so is the Circumference to the Diameter; but the other is a standing Rule, nigh enough for our purpose.  
As 22 to 7, so 560 to 178 4/22 (the Diameter;) if you turn this Fraction into Inches, it will be two Inches, and near half of a Barley-Corn, so then the whole Diameter will be 178 foot 2 Inches, the half is 89 foot one Inch: With this 89 foot one Inch (being the Semi-diameter) draw the Arch of your Semicircle, which Arch shall be 280 foot; and from the Centre by which you drew this Arch▪ may be the Mid-line of your three Walks; as is described in the Figure.  
(See Fig. 20.)  
Let the Centre A. be in a strait Line with the pricked Line B. B. and parallel to the Middle-walk C. the Line B. A. B. may be (if Convenience serve) 50 or 60 foot from the wall, pale, hedge, and that to go parallel to that Line; and where the wall or pale ends, there may be a Row of Trees continued so far as you please or can, etc. At the Centre A. let be some fine Tree set, or some Figure, etc. I once saw a Semicircle set out somewhat like this, where I saw a great deal of measuring before they could proportion it exactly to such a place as was intended: I took my Pen, and by these Rules I told them justly how far they should go. More I could say, if I thought it not unseasonable now.  
Here you see how to proportion a Semicircle, which you may enlarge with three, four, or five Trees on each side, and parallel to the Middle-walk, as is in the second Figure of Semicircles; but be mindful to make such a Figure for your Walks to end in, and of such a bigness as is most convenient to your Ground; the Arch of the Semicircle may be one Row of Trees, (as in the Figure) or two, three, four, or more, as you please; but three Rows set triangular do very well.   

4. How and where a Semicircle is proper on the side of a Walk, etc.  
Suppose you have a Walk a Mile in length or more, it is no ways improper, but pleasant and satisfactory to have your Walks show you every ¼ of a Mile, ½ of a Mile, and ¾, etc. to the End; or from each End, or from one End back to the other; as if you begin at the Centre-tree in the Semicircle at A. then at ¼ of a Mile at the Figure 1. make a Semicircle to break out on the Right hand, the Centre-tree to be exactly in the Row of the Walk, and just a quarter of a mile, as is showed in the Figure as well as the Largeness of our Paper would bear by the Semicircle Figure 1; then at the half mile let two Trees stand in a Semicircle, at Figure 2, one to stand in the Row that makes the walk, which two Trees is half a mile, and at three quarters three Trees; still minding that one be in the Row or Walk the Centre-tree of your Circle, and the exact distance: So one Tree the Centre of the Semicircle, as at Figure 1. is a ¼ of a mile; two Trees as at Figure 2 is ½ a mile, three Trees as at Figure 3 is ¾ of a mile:  
(See Fig. 21.)  
Though the Figure doth not show well, because the smallness of the Paper will not allow Room to draw the distance of miles, as the Trees are according to Scale, (though my scale is here for the distance of the Trees 160 foot for one Inch) yet I presume, where this is really acted in Walks, it will do well: I here begin at the Centre-tree in the Semicircle, and in the Right-hand Row, showing how the ¾ of the mile may be set out, and showed by the Semicircles on the sides; at the other End, I begin at the Centre of the Circle, and so show the ¼, ½, and ¾, how they may be set out on the other side.  
Or if you please, you may have a Tree in the Mid-line of your Walk, at every quarter of a mile, with a Circle to break round that Tree three times the breadth of the Walk, which Tree must be pruned up high, or else it will hinder the Prospect of your Walk, (I fancy the other way is best) as let a Tree stand at every ¼ of a mile, as you see in the Figure.  
(See Fig. 22.)  
Thus having showed you how Walks may end in Circles, or Semicircles, I shall now show how Walks may end or come into an Oval, and how it sometimes happens that an Oval is the best Figure that Walks can End in.  
If three Walks meet acutely at one place, than it will be necessary to have the Mid-line of the three Walks meet at a Tree in the side of an Oval; for if you make that point the Centre of a Circle, it will be too large, 'tis possible larger than your Ground will permit; as at Cashiobury, where the three Walks meet by Hemsted Highway; for if I had made the Circle from the aforesaid Centre, and made the Semi-di3ameter so large as to have in the Circumference the two Trees marked A. A. which rangeth for both Walks, than would this Circle have been too great, and beside could not be made within the Pale: Now I having Orders from my Lord, that the Mid-line of these three Walks should meet at a Tree, as in Fig. 23. they do at B. and that I should make the Figure so large as that the Wood which is between the Middle-walk, and the two outside Walks, should end at a Tree which should stand exactly in the Range of Trees, for the Middle-walk, and also for the inside Rows of the two out-walks; by considering I found the Oval to suit best with this ground; so I having these two Trees, as at A. A. and the Point as at B. which I took for the Breadth of the Oval, accordingly I made it. See the Figure.  
Length of the Oval is 205 foot, Breadth 124 foot, Middle-walk 50 foot, the side-walks each 40 foot wide, having wood between the Walks, and round the Oval.  
(See Fig. 23.)  
Now having the two Trees as at A A. and the Centre-tree of the three Walks B. from the Mid-line of the middle-walk, and in the middle of that Line between A A. and B. draw a perpendicular Line, which showeth the Length of the Oval; at each End set a Tree, as C. C. then divide the distance between the Centre-tree at B. and the End-trees at C. C. which let be at such a distance as may best suit with the six Trees between D. and C. on each side; here the Trees between B. and C. are ten foot ten Inches distance, and the Trees between D. and C. are 10 foot 9 Inches distance; Let always the Trees that make either Oval or Circle stand pretty nigh, they show this or any other Figure the better: For this no certain distance can be given, but they must be set at such a distance as the Arch-line can be divided into, etc.  
I shall show you how to know the Length of an Arch-line, and how to make an Oval or other Figure hereafter.  
This Oval and Walks are surrounded with Wood, and also between the Walks ending at a Tree, as at A A. you may make broader at your pleasure, or you may alter the Oval in shape or bigness, as your Ground and Fancy shall direct you. Your Oval may be surrounded with a double or treble Row of Trees if you fancy it, and indeed if it be in a place where it is not encompassed with wood, it is very proper: An Oval or a Circle, are very good Figures for Ponds, though they be not in use:  
Now for making Walks to end in a Triangle, this may be several ways, according to your Fancy or Ground: But I confess I never yet saw or heard of any Walk in England or elsewhere that ended in such a Figure; But why may not the best of Figures be neglected by the Ingenious Survey or both at home and abroad, as well as we see many Excellent things known to several ingenious men, which are practised by few.  
Having made at the End of Walks, Semicircles, Circles and Ovals of several sorts, and notwithstanding that I had at the end of the three Walks that go from the Garden to the Bowling-green, that end next the Garden, a Figure given me by a worthy person (but how proper for that place I shall not now speak) I nevertheless neglected that, and made the Triangle as is showed by Figure 24. The trees I set the closer, because this being a Front of the house intended to be hid at a distance all but the breadth of the Walks, therefore I chose this Figure as much proper for such a design.  
(See Fig. 24.)  
This Line according to Scale is the Length of the Garden-walk, the Break in the middle against the great Walk, is a Grate which is intended to front it.  
This Figure might be much improved if it were made a little larger, so that the inner Row of the Triangles might range a little without the End of the Garden wall, and at that end a walk to take it, to go by the Garden-side; so might you have a convenient by-way without the Walls, from the 20 foot Walk, along either Walk of the Triangles, to the walk by the Garden-side, etc.  
There are several other sorts of Triangles proper for Walks to end in, but for Shade I prefer this or the next following; if you would have the Trees to show the shape of their heads, than a single Row is best, as the out-Row of the Triangle-walk.  
(See Fig. 25.)  
For a Court you would have shaded with Trees, this Figure will do well.  
In this last Figure you may let the little Walk end Parallel with the Wall, and have no Walks by the side-walls; or you may make only one Walk on each side.  
As for making of the Triangle at the End of your Walk, it may be Analogically according to your Ground; though these two be made obtuse, the perpendicular half the Length of the Base: there be several sorts of Triangles or triangular Figures; but these we have here made are called Ambligone; that is, a Triangle which hath one obtuse and two acute Angles, etc.  
Thus having showed you most of the Regular Figures through which a Walk may pass, or in which a Walk may end, I shall now show how a Walk may pass through a Square, and so proceed.  
(See Fig. 26.)  
You may make your Walks according to this Figure, or you may have the Walks break into the Square in the Middle, on every side, which Figure will do well with a Tree in the Centre, where the prick is, Thus:  
(See Fig. 27.)  
How a Walk may end in a Square, may well be perceived by this last Figure; besides, it is common in many places to be seen, yet in my Opinion is not so convenient for a Walk to end in as the v Figures; from these foregoing you may make several others, according to your Ground: for it is a good Rule to Cut your Coat according to your Cloth; and to proportion the Figure your Walk ends in, according to the best convenience of your Ground.  
Let not your hand always for Copies stay,  
But let an active Fancy lead your way.  
Proportion still your Figure to your Ground,  
Whether it be Triangle, Square, or Round.  
Some of these Figures are also the best to make your Lawns, that is, a spacious Plane joining to your House; which let be in Largeness according as your Ground will permit, as 100 Acres or more.  
This Lawn is most convenient to be on the South side, or East side of your House: For if it be on the West side, it giveth the more way for the west wind (which is most commonly the greatest) to harm your House, by its free passage thereto: Also if your best Rooms front your Lawn, as they always should do, the Afternoon being the most usual time in which great Persons do solace themselves in these principal Rooms, the Afternoon Sun will then be Offensive to such Rooms, and the Prospect will both be hindered and not so pleasant; for the Sun by shining against you and from the Object, doth by both hinder your Prospect; and most Prospects are most pleasant when the Sun shineth on them. These Inconveniences, which arise from your Lawns being on the west side of your House, being considered, I thence conclude, by the Rule of Contraries, that it is most convenient for your Lawn to be on the East side of your House; for there you have your Rooms shady in the Afternoon, the Objects which you view from your house much beautified by the Sun shining upon them in the Afternoon, etc.  
For the aforesaid Reasons your Lawn may do very well on the South side of your House; for the Sun shining most part of the day on that side of your House, doth much add to the beauty of that Front, which ought to be the best Front of your House; therefore a large Lawn on that side, doth much help the Prospect to the House, and also from it.  
A Lawn on the North side is no ways convenient, for that lays your House too open to the cold North winds, etc. Wherhfore, let your North and West sides be planted with Woods, Orchards, etc.  
A Square is no ill Figure for a Lawn, thus: Where there may be three Avenues break out at the three Angles, or one at the Angle opposite to the House: And if your Lawn be Rising Ground to the House, some Trees set thin on the Lawn will be very pleasant. (See Fig. 28.)  
Your Lawn may be bounded with Walks, if you please, which in this Figure will do well, or you may have a single Row of Line-trees to bond your Lawn with, set at a good distance one from another, they will show the shape of their heads the better.  
As the Pricks are on the Lawn, so may your Trees stand, but leave the Front clear, except the Lawn be much falling Ground from the House:  
Let the Figure of the House be in the form of these two, (Fig. 28, 29.) or any other, yet let the Lawn be on both sides the Front alike, making an Angle at the middle of the Front, or at some Court gate right before it, and breaking off (as you see in the Fig.) at a convenient distance from the House: A single Row of Line-trees set at 4 Rod distance, as they be in the Fig. will be pleasant to bond your Lawn.  
(See Fig. 29.)  
From these two you may make several, but still mind to make such as will best fit your Ground.  
A Circle is a good Figure for a Lawn, only it must break off before it comes against the Front.  
A Triangle is also a very proper Figure for a Lawn, but let it not be too Acute at the Angle which leads to the Front, but rather Obtuse, or right angled at the Angle next the Front, as in the two last Figures. I have often observed some Fields lying in the form of a Triangle, leading up between two Woods or large Hedges, and sometimes I have seen a House at the Angle; this hath been very pleasant to my fancy, especially when it hath ascended up hill, and hath had the South, Southeast, or East Aspect: Now if Noblemen and Gentlemen that have Ground convenient, would but make some such Lawns before their Houses, it would be very pleasant, and a great Ornament to their Seats. They may make these Lawns, and clear the wood that is within the Figure of them, as it decays, or as they have occasion; the Charge would not be great, but the Pleasure and Profit would certainly be great and lasting:  
I do prefer your Lime-trees to bound in your Lawn, because it is a Tree that will grow well on any Soil, having but care to plant it as it should be, beside the fine shape all the Trees will naturally grow in, for they will seem as though they were cut, provided they be not set too thick, for then one hinders the shape of another.  
The Elm is a good Tree for this purpose, for it hath a fine green Leaf, and if the Ground be Natural for it, it will grow to a great Tree, and strait, if kept with Pruning as it ought to be: These Trees you may plant thick round your Lawn.  
The Beech, in Ground where it likes, makes a stately Tree, so doth the Walnut, Chesnut; black Cherries where they like the Ground, are quick Growers, and very pleasant in the Spring when they be clothed in their white Garments; and indeed any Tree that is not very dangerous to remove, as is the stately Oak and Pines, which were the very best, were it not for this fault. The Firs and Ewes are not so difficult; they will do well where they like the Ground, etc.  
Now where men have not the Convenience or the Quantity of Ground, if they make but 20 Acres in a Field in some good Figure leading to the House, it will be the more pleasant, and the Charge as little as to do it other ways.    

CHAP. XXXIX.  
Of several Superficial Figures, and how they are to be measured.  
TO speak of all sorts of Figures will be far beyond my intentions, there being so very many irregular Figures which have many unequal sides and angles; but they may all be brought into parts of some of the Figures following, and Measured like them; I shall show you one Useful Prob. especially to make your Ovals by, whether they be made from two Centres, or four; and then I shall touch at some Superficial Figures. (See Fig. 30.)  
Suppose three pricks or points given (so they be not in a straight line) to find a Centre to bring them into a Circle. This may be done several ways, viz. either by Circles, or by raising Perpendiculars; as if the points at A. B. C. were to be brought into a Circle: Draw a line from A. to B. and in the middle of that line raise a Perpendicular, as the line D. E. which you may soon do; for if you open your Compasses to any convenient distance, and set one point in B. draw the Arch 1. and 2. then setting one point in 4. draw 3. and 4. where these cross draw the line E. D. Do the same with the points B. C. and where the two Perpendicular lines meet is the Centre, as at F, etc. Superficial Figures that are irregular and right-lined, are such whose Sides or Angles are un-equal, of which some are triangles, or triangular Figures; and here Note, that there are five sorts of triangles, which are thus Named and known: 

1. Isocheles hath two of the sides unequal.  
2. Scalena hath the three sides unequal.  
3. Orthygone hath one Right and two Acute Angles.  
4. Ambligone hath one Obtuse and two Acute Angles.  
5. Oxygone hath three Acute Angles, or Equilateral triangles.    
(See Fig. 31.)  
Every triangle is half of a square, whose Length and Breadth is equal to the Perpendicular, and Side cut by the Perpendicular; as is plain in the first Figure showed by the pricked lines: therefore to Measure any triangle, raise a Perpendicular from the Base, to the greatest Angle:  
Then Multiply the whole Base by half the Perpendicular, or the whole Perpendicular by half the Base, and the Product is the Content. Or thus, take the whole Base and whole Perpendicular, and Multiply one by the other, the half of that Sum is the Content of the triangle, etc.  
Square or Quadrangular Figures are these following.  

1. A Geometrical square; this hath Right Angle, and sides equal.  
2. An Oblong-square, which hath equal opposite sides and Rectang.  
3. A Rhombus, hath equal Sides, and unequal Angles.  
4. A Rhomboides, having unequal Sides, and Angles opposite, equal.  
5. Trapezia, Are all other four-sided Figures.   
(See Fig. 32.)  
The first is Measured by Multiplying one of the Sides in its self. In the Second the length Multiplied by the breadth, gives the Content:  
The three last may be turned into two triangles each, and so Measured as is before said.  
Polygones are these Figures following: as the end of a Tree hewed into five equal sides, this is called a Pentagone; of six sides, Hexagone; seven sides, Heptagone, eight sides, Octagone; nine sides, Enneagone; ten sides, Decagone; twelve sides, Dodecagone. To Measure any of these, take half the perimeter (that is, half the Compass about) and the perpendicular drawn from the Centre to the middle of any one of the sides, Multiply the one by the other, and it giveth the Content.  
Circular Figures are these, which be thus Named: 

1. The Circle, is near Equal to a square, made of ½ Diameter, and ½ Circumference.  
2. The Semicircle, to a square made of half the Arch line, and ½ Semi-diameter.  
3. The Quadrant, or fourth part of a Circle.  
4. The Segment, Arch, or part of a Circle.    
The first is Measured by Multiplying the Semi-circumference by the Semi-diameter. The second, by Multiplying the Radius or Semi-diameter by ¼ of the Circumference of the whole Circle. The third, by Multiplying the Radius by ⅛ of the Circumference of the Circle that it was made of. The fourth by Multiplying the Radius by ½ the length of that Arch-line: thus have you the Content or Area of each.  
To find the Diameter of any Circle, or the Circumference, by having one given; the lowest Number is, as 7 is to 22. so is the Diameter to the Circumference; or as 22 is to 7. so is the Circumference to the Diameter.  

To find the Length of an Arch-line Geometrically.  
This Problem is Useful to be known, for to Measure the Quadrand, Segment of a Circle, or Oval; for the Oval is made of parts of the Circle.  
First, Divide the Chord-line of the part of the Circle into four equal parts; then set one of these parts from one End of the Chord-line, also set one of the four parts from the Angle in the Arch-line; then from one point to the other, draw a Line; the length of this Line is half the length of the Arch-line.  
(See Fig. 33.)  
Examp. A. B. the Chord-line, Divided into 4 parts, one of the 4 parts set from B. to C. and one part set from A. to D. then draw the Line C. D. which Line is half the length of the Arch-line A. D. B. which was to be found out.  
Thus may you Measure this part of a Circle, or the like; but if the part of a Circle be greater than a Semicircle, then Divide the Arch-line into two Equal parts, and find the length of one of these, as is aforesaid; which doubled giveth the length of the whole Arch-line: This Rule will assist you to Measure the Oval, whether it be made from two Centres or four, etc.  
There is no regular Figure but may be Reduced into some of these Figures aforesaid, therefore I shall show you the Use of some Geometrical Figures, which are very Useful; not Questioning but that you Understand the first Rules in Geometry, as, to draw a parallel Line, to Raise a perpendicular-line from another, etc. for those things are out of my intended Discourse, therefore if you be to seek in them, consult with Euclid and others.   

How to Raise a Perpendicular at the end of a Line, by which you make a Square, very Useful also to set off a square-line from a strait-line, in any Garden, Walk, House-end, or the like.  
(See Fig. 34.)  
Examp. If you be desired to set off a square-line at B. from the Line A. B. take six Foot, Yards, or Rod, and Measure from B. to C. in your strait-line, then take eight of the same Measure and set from B. to D. and ten of the same, holding one end at C. bring the Line B. D. till it just touch the Line C. D. at D. so have you an Exact Square made by 6. 8. and 10. See Euclid first Book, Prob. 47. and p. 35. Math. Recreations, p. 93.  
(See Fig. 35.)  
This you may do in other Numbers that bear the like proportion; for Euc. tells you, that the square made of the side subtending the Right Angle, is Equal to the squares made of both the sides containing the Right Angle; for 10 times 10 is a 100 and 6 times 6 is 36. and 8 times 8 is 64. so 36 and 64. make 100 equal to the subtended square. There be several other ways to Raise a Perpendicular at the end of a Line, but this being so easy, and the most useful, I shall not name any other.    

CHAP. XL.  
To Divide a Right Line given, according to any Proportion Required; and how to Divide Land or Woods, with some Uses of the fourpole Chain.  
THE Line A is Required to be Divided into two such parts, which shall have proportion the one to the other, as the Line B. hath unto C.  
(See Fig. 36.)  
Make an Angle of any Quantity, as A. B. C. and let the side A. B. be Equal to the given Line A. then set the Line C. from A. to E. and the Line B. from E. to C. and from the point E. draw the Line E. D. parallel to C. B. cutting the Line A. B. in D. so shall B. D. bear the same proportion to D. A. as the Line B. hath to the Line C. this is the Golden Rule by Lines.  

To Divide a Right Line in Power, according to any Proportion given.  
(See Fig. 37.)  
Draw the Line C. D. Equal to the two Lines A. & B. then Divide the said Line in the point F. in proportion as A. to B. then in the middle of the Line C. D. Describe the Semicircle C. E. D. and on the point at F. Raise the Perpendicular F. E. cutting the Semicircle in E. from that point draw the lines E. C. and E. D. which two Lines together shall be equal in power to the given Line, and the power of the Line E. C. shall be in such proportion to the power of the line E. D. as A. to B.  
Many Men when their Woods are felled, sell their Wood by the Acre, or half-Acre, or sometimes two or three Acres; and sometimes Men Let their Land to Blow by the Acre, and sometimes Men purchase part of a Field by the Acre: I will here show you how you may cut off parts of an Acre, or several Acres from a Field; or how far you must go in a Wood or Field to make an Acre, more or less, of several Figures; which will be Useful to be known of most Men, for several other Occasions.  
Suppose a Wood, or part of it, should be in a Triangle, as the Figure following, which should contain 745 pole 42/100. that is 4 Acres 105 Pole, and near a ½. Of this Wood there is Sold 2 Acres, which is to be taken off from the Angle C. and to cut the line A. B. having Measured your Triangle, and found it as abovesaid, and also the Base-line to be 84 pole, then by the Rule of Three work it thus:  
(See Fig. 38.)  
If 745 ' 42. (the Content of the whole Triangle) have for its Base 84 Pole or Rods; what shall 320 pole have for its Base? (that is 2 Acres) See it wrought by Logarith.  
Here you see that this Log. gives 36 pole and 6/100. so that you must go 36 pole and little more on the Base-line A. B. from A. to D. for your 2 Acres; then the Angle A. C. D. is the two Acres, or 320 Pole, and the Angle C. D. B. is 2 Acres 105 pole, and near ½ a pole.  
By the same Rule may you cut off what Number of poles you please, from the Angle D. to fall upon the Line C. B. or to fall upon the Line D. B. having but the length of the Lines given you.  
But if it be Required to take off a part from a Triangle according to any proportion given, by a Line drawn parallel to any of the sides assigned.  
As let A. B. C. be a Triangle containing 5 acres, and it is desired to cut off 2 acres, by a Line drawn parallel to A. B. first, on the Line A. C. draw the Semicircle A. E. C. and the Diameter C. A. Divide into 5 equal parts, and from the point of 3 of these parts of that Line draw the perpendicular D. E. to cut the arch-line in E. then set the length of C. E. from C. on the Diameter-line, and it will reach to the point F. then from that point at F. take the nearest distance to the Line A. B. and set that distance off from B. to G. then draw the Line F. G. exactly parallel to A. B. so will the Triangle C. G. F. be 3 acres, and G. B. A. F. 2 acres, the thing propounded.  
(See Fig. 39)  
This Rule in itself is exact, but in a large Field or Wood it is difficult to be done, because the Semicircles and other Lines are very hard to be drawn exactly.  
But if your Field, or part of it, be a square, and you are to take off some parts of it, you may do it to any Number of Rods desired, easily and exactly, thus:  
Let the Field be never so great, Measure you only that side of the Square whence you are to take off your part, exactly.  
(See Fig. 40.)  
Examp. It is Required to cut off 2 acres, or 320 Pole from a Field, or part of one, that is in form of the Square A. B. D. C. with a Line drawn parallel to the side A. B. Now, finding the side of the Square to be 32 Pole; Divide 320 (the parts you are to cut off) by 32, the side of the Square, and the Quotient will be 10; then set off 10 Pole from A. to E. and from B. to F. and the Square A. B. F. E. is 2 acres, as was Required.  
This is very Useful for several Men, and readily to be performed; but if these sides A. C. or B. D. do not go Square from the end A. B. then must you find the mid-line of the Square you are to take, and Divide the Sum of Poles you are to take off by that; the first Example will assist you to find this mid-line, and somewhat help you in the working.  
This being such an useful Prob. I shall show you how to perform it another way, as in the last Examp. the side of the square 32 Pole, and you know 160 Pole make one Acre; then divide 160 by 32 (the side of your Square) the Quotient is 5; which tells you, that you must measure 5 Rod, or Poles, from the side of your Square on each End, to make one Acre, 10 Pole for two Acres, 15 Pole for three Acres, etc. which you see agrees with the former Rule.  
But if it be required to take off the parts of a Square, and to have those parts in a Triangle, than the first and second Figures will assist you how to perform that.   

To divide an Irregular Figure into any parts required; that is, to take what number of Rods you please from such a Figure.  
As, if A B C D E. be the Figure of a Field or Wood, and it is desired to take off the half of it from the Angle at A. the whole Figure is 705 Pole, than the half is 352.50, and the Triangle A D E. is but 290 Pole, which wants 62 Pole and a half of the half of the Field; therefore take 62. 50 from the Triangle A C D. by the Rules delivered in the 38 th'. Fig. and there will be added the Triangle A D H, which being added to the Triangle A D E, will divide the Figure into two equal parts, the thing desired.  
(See Fig. 41.)  
Thus may you take half from any irregular Figure, or more, or less than half, and from what Angle desired, which will assist you well how to fallen your Woods by the Acre, or to know how far you shall go into a Field, to take off any parts; the fourth Rule (which I found by my Practice) I commend for very good.  
One Example I shall give you more, which shall be according to my fourth Rule: I tried it in a Field near to Cashiobury-Park; this I was ordered to do by my Lord's Steward Mr. Sydenham, to take off three Acres from a small Field as exactly as I could, at one End appointed by him.  
First I measured that End, and found it to be 37 pole and ¾, but observing the Hedges, I found them to splay off a little, so that about 6 Rod and a half, or little more, would be the middle, which I set off at each End, and found that Line to be 38 Pole long; then I divided 160 (the Poles in one Acre) by 38 (the Poles of the End of the Field) the Quotient was 4 and 8/38, which 8 of 38 I must turn into parts of my Chain, that is, into Decimal parts, thus: As 38 is to 8, so is 100 to 21 and 2 of 38, which 2 is not considerable; So that if the Chain be divided into 100 Links, you must then go 4 Pole and 21 Links at each End for to make one Acre of Ground; but if your Chain be a four pole Chain, divided into 100 Links, then with such a Chain you must go 4 pole 5 links and ¼ and a little more, to make one Acre at 38 Pole long: Then for three Acres I must go in breadth 12 Pole, 63/100 to make three Acres and a little more, see it proved.  
Here you may see that 12 Pole 63/100 multiplied by 38 Pole, giveth 479 Pole and 94/100, which being divided by 160 (the Poles in one Acre) gives in the Quotient 2 and 159; so than if you add but 6 of 100, to the 94, it is just three Acres; for whereas I take, in the Decimal parts, but 21/100, I should take the 21 Links, and the 22 th' part of one of these Links, which niceness may be dispensed with.  
From what hath been said, you may measure any standing Wood, or part thereof, especially if these parts be near to a Square or Triangle, if not, you may Reduce them to one of these.  
Thus having spoke something how superficial Figures are to be measured, I shall give an Example or two of the Chain, and it shall be of the Fourpole Chain, divided into 100 parts; as suppose the Figure A B C D.  
(See Fig. 42.)  
This Figure may be measured several ways; as first it may be put into two Triangles, and so measured, or else you may measure both the Ends, and half them, and so measure the Length in. the middle; you may measure also both the sides and half them, and then measure the breadth in the middle. But for Example: First I measure the side A B. and find it to be 15 Chains and 80 Links of the Fourpole Chain, the End B C. is 6 Chains 74 Links, the other side C D. is 12 Chains 50 Links, and the other End D A. is 6 Chains. Then add the two sides together, of which take the half, that half is the mean Length: both sides added together, make 28 Chains 30 links; half of which is 14 Chains 15 links; then add the Ends together, viz. 6 Chains, and 6 Chains 74 links, the total of both is 12 chains 74 links, then half of the Ends added together, is 6 chains 37 links: Then multiply the mean Length by the mean Breadth, and cut off 5 Figures to the Right hand, and whatsoever Figures Remain to the Left hand, are Acres; and those 5 Figures cut off are parts of an Acre.  
Thus may you know the Content of a Field without Division; as in the last Examp. 14. 15, multiplied by 6. 37, gives 901355, then if you take off five figures, as the fractional parts, there remains 9, which is nine Acres two Pole and above ⅛ of a Pole. But you may easily know the fractional part of any Decimal fraction thus: This belongs to 100000: for if the Decimal fraction have 5 Figures, the Integer is 6, the fraction 4, than the Integer 5. etc.  
Then work it by the Rule of Three, or by your Line of Numbers, thus: As 100000 is to 1355, so is 160 (the square Poles in one Acre) to 2 Poles and near ¼, but that you may be the better satisfied in this most useful Rule, if 100000 be Equal to one Acre, or 160 Pole,  
So that when any Fraction is, repair but to these Rules, and you may see what Number of poles is equal to it: you may proportion it to half-poles, etc. for,  
Not only to prove this, but also to show you how much readier this way is, than the 100 Links, to bring it into Rods or Poles, then divide it by 160, to bring the aforesaid Measure to the one Pole Chain and 100; multiply 14. 15 by 4, it gives 56. 60; and 6. 37 multiplied by 4 gives 25. 48, which being multiplied one by the other, giveth 1442 1680/10000: I will neglect the Fraction as being not ¼ of a Pole, and divide 1442 (the Poles in that Measure) by the sq. Poles in one Acre (160 Pole) and the Quotient is 9 and 2 over, that is, 9 Acres 2 Pole and a little more, as before. But how much the other way is readier than this, I leave the Reader to judge.  
Example the Second.   

How to measure a Triangle with the Fourpole Chain, and never use Division.  
As in the Triangle A B C. the Base A C. is 40 Pole, and the pricked Perpendicular Line is 20, the half is 10 Pole; Now when you have even Poles (as in this Examp.) you must add two Ciphers to the length, and two to the breadth; or else you cannot take off the 5 Figures, or 5 Ciphers, as is before showed; then taking the 5 Ciphers off after Multiplication, there remains 40: which showeth you that such a Triangle, that hath such a Base, and such a Perpendicular, containeth four Acres of Ground: And if you work it the common way, you will find it to be true.  
(See Fig. 43.)  
But to assist you yet further to turn  M. C. X.  ac. ro. p. ac. ro. p. ro. po. 1 6. 1. 0 0. 2. 20 0. 10 2 12. 2. 0 0. 1. 0 0. 20 3 18. 3. 0 1. 3. 20 0. 30 4 25. 0. 0 2. 2. 0 1. 0 5 31. 1. 0 3. 0. 20 1. 10 6 37. 2. 0 3. 3. 0 1. 20 7 43. 3. 0 4. 1. 20 1. 30 8 50. 0. 0 5. 0. 0 2. 0 9 56. 1. 0 5. 2. 20 2. 10 Poles into Acres, observe this Table: The Denominations of the several Numbers are known by the Marks under which they are set, as all under Ac. are Acres, under Ro. are Roods, under Po. are so many Pole; and so the first Column under M. answereth to Thousands, that under C. to Hundreds, that under X. to Ten, and the odd Pole (if any be) are set down under Pole: As e. g. 1442 Pole: To know how many Acres by this Table: first for the One thousand in the Table under M. is 6 Acres one Rood, set that down as you see in the preceding Page; then four Hundred under C. and against 4 is 2 Acres 2 Roods, set that down; then in the Table under X. and against 4, is one Rood, set that down; then the odd Poles set down always under the Poles, as 2 under Poles; then sum them up, and you shall find it is 9 Acres 2 Pole, as before: This Table being so plain, there needs no more Examples.  

A Table of superficial long Measure, from an Inch to a Mile, according to the Standard of England.  Inch.       12 A foot.      36 3 A yard.     45 3 ¾ 1 ¼ Ell.    198 16 ½ 5 ½ 4 ⅖ Pole.   7920 660 220 176 40 Furlong  63360 5280 1760 1408 320 8 Mile.  

A Table of square Measure.  Acres. 4 160 4840 43560  Rood. 40 1210 10890   Pole. 30 ¼ 272 ¼    Yards. 9     Feet.  

An Example of the Table of long Measure.  
Suppose you were to find out how many Inches were in a Pole long; look under Inches, and against Pole, there is 198; and so many Inches are in a Pole long, and 16 ½ Foot, 5 ½ Yards:  
And in the Table of Square Measure, to know how many square Yards is in a Pole, look against Pole, and above Yards there is 30 ¼, the square yards in a Pole.  
There be several other sorts of superficial Measures, as Paving, Plaistering, Wainscoting and Painting; which are to be measured by the Yard square, and may be measured by some of the Rules before showed; your readiest way is by the Yard divided into ten parts, so will you odd Measure come into Decimal Fractions, which are as easily cast up as whole Numbers: Or if you measure by the Foot Rule, have it divided into 10 parts, and when you have found the Content in feet, divide it by 9, the Quotient will show you how many yards; and if any remain, they be feet.  
Some sorts of Work are measured by the square of 10 foot the side, so that such a Square is 100 foot; for ten times Ten is a Hundred: By this Measure is your Carpenters Work measured, as Floors, Partitions, Roofs of Houses; So also is Tiling and Slatting measured; this is very ready to measure and to cast up: for if you multiply the Breadth by the Length, so many hundreds as you find, so many Squares are there; and what remains are parts of a Square.  
Board and Glass, etc. are measured by the foot, which may be divided into ten parts, which will be much easier to count up.  
But if you would be more fully satisfied in the Rules of Surveying, see the work of Mr. Leyborn, Mr. Wing, Mr. Rathborn, etc.    

Having the Length of a Field, to know what Breadth will make one Acre of Ground, by the Fourpole Chain and Line of Numbers.  
Ex. The Length is 12 Chains 50 Links, to find the Breadth to make that Length just one Acre, do thus: Extend your Compasses from 12.50 (the Length) to 10, that Extent will reach from one to 80, which is the Breadth in Links to make one Acre; for if you multiply 12.50 by 80, it yields 100000; from which if you take off five Ciphers, there remains one, which is one Acre, etc.    

CHAP. XLI.  
Of Measuring Holes and Borders that be under a Pole broad, by which you may the better let or take them to do by the Pole-square, etc. with several Tables of Measures.  
HOles for to set Trees in are seldom made under one foot Diameter, or above eight foot Diameter; the Depth may be reduced to a foot deep.  
The Rules to measure any Circle by, are the same, which is thus: To take the Semi-circumference and the Semi-diameter, and multiply these Halfs, the one by the other, sheweth the superficial Content or Area of that Circle.  
This you may work either by the Pen, or Line of Numbers: As by the line of Numbers thus: The Diameter being four foot, extend the Compasses from 1. to 4. (the Diameter;) keep your Compasses fixed, and always on the Number 7854 set one point, and turn twice to the Right hand: (but if they fall off at the End at the second turn, then must you set them on the first part of the Line when you have turned them once, etc.  
Having taken the distance of 1 to 4. and set one point on the standing Number 7854: the other point goes to 31 and near ½, thence if you turn another turn it will go off from the Line, therefore you must find the point 31 and near ½ on the first part of the Line, and set one point there, the other will reach to 12 and about 58/100, which tells you, that in a Circle of 4 foot Diameter there are 12 superficial square feet and a half, and better.  
Now to work it according to the Rule above, by the Line, if you multiply the Semi-diameter by the Semi-circumference, it giveth the Content, the same way I shall do it with my Pen:  

Example.  
First, having the Diameter I must find the Circumference; Extend the Compasses from 7 to 22. the same will reach from 4 to 12. 58 (the Circumference) than ½ of 12. 58 is 6 29/100, the (Semi circumference) which multiply by 2 the Semi diameter: Extend the Compasses from 1 to 2, the same Extent will reach from 6. 29 to 12. 58, as before, that is, twelve foot and a half and 8/100: You here may see how easily and readily the Golden Rule and Multiplication may be performed by the Line of Numbers; which I use the oftener, that you might take the more notice of the Easiness of it to work any of the Rules of Arithmetic by: Being once perfect in this, you will soon understand the Sector, with its excellent uses in the Mathematics, performed by Lines and Compasses; but according to the last Rule, see the same Question wrote with the Pen, that you may see the Agreement that is between Geometry and Arithmetic.  

Example. 144  
Which 741 Barly-corns is above half a foot, as was showed before; but in finding the Circumference I add a cipher to 4, which makes it 40, from that I take 6 times 7, which is 42, and should be but 40, then because I took too much, I neglect 6 when I divide it by the Barley Corns in a Foot Square, so that I do not say it is exact, neither doth the Fraction 741/1296 bear the like proportion as 58/100 for if you extend your Compasses from 100 to 58, that Extent will reach from 1296. to 750; and if you will be more exact work it by Logarithmes, 'tis 12 foot 82 Inches.    

A Table from one Foot Diameter, to 8 foot superficial Content.  

One foot Diana. is 113 Inches.  
Two foot Diego: is 3 foot 20 Inches.  
Three foot Diego: is 7 foot 10 Inches.  
Four foot Diego: is 12 foot 82 Inches.  
Five foot Diego: is 19 foot 93 Inches.  
Six foot Diego: is 28 foot 41 Inches.  
Seven foot Diego: is 38 foot 72 Inches.  
Eight foot Diego: is 50 foot 43 Inches.   
Now knowing the Content of any of these Circles, you may the better know how to let or take them to do, and reduce them into square Poles, or let them to do by the Pole square, etc. for, 

foot.  
One superficial Pole square is 272 25/100; or ¼  
Half of a square Pole is 136 125/1000  
A Quarter of a square Pole is 68 0625/10000  
One Eight of a square Pole is 34 03125/100000    
For if you divide 272 25/100 by 8, you will have in the Quotient 34 03125/100000, which is one eighth part of a pole; to reduce the Inches into feet, may be easily done: 

For 144 Inches is a superficial foot square.  
72 half of a square foot.  
36 Inches is ¼ of a square foot.  
18 Inches is ⅛ of a square foot, etc. for 8 times 18 is 144.     

How to measure your Borders, if you let them to do by the Rood.  
Any under-measure is best to measure by the Decimal Chain, if by the one Pole Chain, and divided into 100 Links: If it be the Fourpole Chain divided into 100 links, than every one of these Links is four link of the other; so that every square Rod is 10000 links superficial.  

One link broad, 10000 in length, makes a Pole.  
Two links broad, 5000 long, a Pole.  
Two and a half broad, 4000 in length, a Pole.  
Three links broad, 334, near a Pole.   

A Table of the rest in Links from one Link to a hundred.  Breadth. Leng. 1 10000 2 5000 3 3340 4 2500 5 2000 6 1667 7 1429 8 1250 9 1111 10 1000 11 909 12 833 13 770 14 714 15 667 16 625 17 588 18 556 19 527 20 500 21 475 22 454 23 435 24 417 25 400 26 385 27 371 28 357 29 344 30 333 31 323 32 312 33 303 34 294 35 285 36 278 37 270 38 263 39 256 40 250 41 244 42 237 43 232 44 227 45 222 46 217 47 213 48 208 49 204 50 200 51 196 52 192 53 188 54 185 55 182 56 178 57 175 58 172 59 170 60 167 61 164 62 161 63 158 64 156 65 154 66 152 67 149 68 147 69 145 70 143 71 141 72 139 73 137 74 135 75 133 76 132 77 130 78 128 79 127 80 125 81 124 82 122 83 121 84 119 85 118 86 117 87 115 88 114 89 113 90 111 91 110 92 109 93 108 94 107 95 105 96 104 97 103 98 102 99 101 100 100  
This Table i●●so easy to understand, that it needs no Example; for look but the Breadth, and against it is the Number of Links that you must have in Length to make a Pole square superficial. This Table is of other excellent uses, which is left to your Practice; though it is not exact, yet it is as near as can be in whole Links; and the fractional parts are so small, they be not worth minding; but you may proportion them if you please. The last Tables of Holes, and this for Borders, I made to assist me to let my Lords Work at Cashiobury.  
Brickwork is measured by the Pole of 16 ½ feet long; and let the Wall be 3, 4, 5, or 6 Bricks thick, the thickness is always reduced to a Brick and half thick: So that one Brick and a half thick is in proportion to 3, 2 Bricks thick to 4, etc.  
1 Brick ½ thick is in proportion to a wall of one Brick and half thick as three is to any of these Numbers, 3 2 Bricks  4 2 & ½  5 3 Bricks  6 3 & ½  7 4 Bricks  8 4 & ½  9 5 Bricks  10 5 & ½  11 6 Bricks  12 6 & ½  13 7 Bricks  14 7 & ½  15 8 Bricks  16 8 & ½  17 9 Bricks  18 9 & ½  19 10 Bricks  20  
The Rule is this, as 3 is to any Number against the Bricks or Bricks and half, (according as the Wall is thick,) so is the Length of Poles to the Content in Poles.  

Example.  
A Wall 7 Bricks and half thick and 2 Pole long, is 10 Pole of Wall reduced to a Brick and a half thick, the number answering against 7 Bricks and ½, is 15, then by the Rule of Three, with your Pen or Line and Compasses, work it thus: As 3 is to 15, so is 2 (the Length of the Wall in Roods or Poles) to 10; so that a Wall 7 Brick and a half thick, and 2 Pole long, is equal to 10 Pole of a Wall that is but one Brick and half thick.  
But if you measure the Wall by a 10 foot Rod divided into 10 or 100 equal parts, you may soon find the superficial Content in feet, by multiplying the Length by the Breadth, and so turn them into square Poles by the Table following.   

Example.  
Suppose a Wall 272 foot long, and 12 foot high, that is 3264 superficial square feet; which if you divide by 272 and ¼ (the superficial feet in one Rod square) the Quotient will be 11 and 269. 25/100, that is, 11 Pole, 269 foot and ¼, which wants but three foot of twelve Pole or Rod: For if you take 269 25, fro● the square feet in a Pole, viz. 272. 25, there will remain but three foot, as you may see it, and the Division here wrought with the Pen.  
Where note in Division, that if the Divisor or the Dividend, or either of them hath a Decimal Fraction belonging to it, add two Ciphers to the other, as you see here is done; and also in Division of Fractions, so many times as you can take whole Numbers from whole Numbers, so many whole Numbers have you in your Quotient; but when your whole Numbers come under your Fractions, what comes then in the Quotient is Fractions; and you must always make a stop between the whole Number and the Fractions, in all places; and so in Multiplication, so many Fractions as there are in the Multiplicand and Multiplicator, so many Figures must you cut off from the Product.  
And note, that if this 272 had been but 272 and ¼, than had there been just 12 Pole; for every foot high had then been one superficial Pole square. The use of this Table is to turn Feet into a superficial  X. M. M. C. X.  p. q. f. p. q. f. p. q. f. q. f. 1 36. 2. 63 3. 2. 41 0. 1. 31 10 2 73. 1. 58 7. 1. 26 0. 2. 62 20 3 110. 0. 53 11. 0. 05 1. 0. 20 30 4 146. 3. 55 14. 2. 52 1. 1. 57 40 5 183. 2. 40 18. 1. 31 1. 3. 20 50 6 220. 1. 35 22. 0. 10 2. 0. 54 60 7 257. 0. 43 25. 2. 57 2. 2. 17 1. 02 8 293. 3. 41 29. 1. 36 2. 3. 47 1. 12 9 330. 2. 25 33. 0. 15 3. 1. 13 1. 22 Pole square: if your sum be 10000, then take the Number answering your ten Thousands under X. M; if a Thousands under M, a Hundred under C, and Ten under X.  
An Example will make it plain; having measured your side of a wall▪ and found it to be (as in the last Example,) 3264 feet, look under M. and against 3. there is p. 11. o. f. 5; then look under C, and against 2, there is 0. 2. 62; then under X. and against 6 is 60; and then the four odd foot set down as you see here, make near 12 Pole, as before.  
272. 25 is one Pole, square feet, superficial Measure, and 136. 125 is half a square Pole, and 68 062 1/2 is one quarter of a Pole square, but if your sum be Ten or Ten of Thousands, than you must take that from under X. M.  
As for Example. In 36542 square feet, how many poles quarters, and feet are there? You will find, if you take them out of the Table as is before showed, and also  pole. qu. feet. For 30000 an. 110. 0. 53. For 6000 an. 22. 0. 10. For— 500 an. 1. 3. 20. For the 40 an. 0. 0. 40. And for the 2 an. 0. 0. 02.  134. 0. 57 sum them up, that there will be 134 pole and 57 foot. So you see this Table will turn your feet into poles square, and the other will reduce them into one brick and half thick, which is soon performed, and will be of Excellent use.  
These Tables will also assist you well in Levelling of Ground, that is, if you let your Ground to be done by the pole square of 16 foot and a ½, which is called a Floor, viz. 272.25; but in some places the Floor is 18 foot square, and one foot deep, which is 324 solid feet; and in some places Ground is Let to dig and to carry away by the yard solid, that is, 27 solid foot; for 3 times 3 is 9, and 3 times 9 is 27, which is near a Cart load of Earth; so that in a Floor of Earth of 16 foot and a ● square, and a foot deep (according to this Rule) there is about 10 Loads of Earth, as you see it is 10 Loads 08/100 and ⅓ or solid yards. The Floor of 18 foot square, or 324 solid feet, is 12 solid yards, or 12 Loads of Earth.  
Now all Banks that are made, taking down of Hills in Walks, or filling up of low places, or making Mounts, or Mount-walks, are most commonly Let by the Rod square, to do; and Reduced to one foot deep.  
The price for Removing Earth is according to the Ground, for some Ground is much worse to dig than others: but that you may not be altogether unsatisfied, I have observed it thus:  
The worst sort of Earth or Gravel (so it be not a Rock of stone) may be removed, where Men work for 12 d. the day, at these prices, the Workmen finding themselves Barrows or Carts, and all sort of Working tools.  
For every Rod square at 16 foot ½ the pole, and one foot deep, to carry it from one Rod to 10 Rod, and to lay the Earth they carry, levelly: 2s. for one pole or floor from 10 pole to 20, 2s. 6d. from 20 pole to 30, 3 s. from 30 pole to 50, to carry it in Carts, 3s. 6d. from 50 pole to 70, 4 s, etc.  
But if it be Loom, Brick, Earth, or Clay that will dig well, that they can spit with a Spade, and fill without the use of Pit-axe or Mattock, than one fourth part may be abated, etc. This Rule is sufficient considering but this, that near London where Men have more wages than 12 d. the day, there they will look for more a Floor; and where men work for less, it may be proportioned accordingly. Thus may you compute the Charge of making Mounts, taking down Hills, making of Ponds, etc.  
But to assist you yet further, observe these few plain Rules, though they may not always be exact: having found the mean Length and Breadth of your Ground, or Length of your Base and Perpendicular, & you desire to go but a quarter of a Rod in length or breadth, which will content many in ordinary uses; as if a man hath digged a piece of Ground by the Pole square, that is 10 Pole and a half broad, and 21 Pole and a half long, you may count up this, or any the like Numbers thus, ten times 21 is 210, than ten halfs is 5 whole ones, and 21 halfs is 10 whole ones and a half; and a half of a half is a quarter, which you may keep in your Memory, or set them down: so you see here they make both by the Decimal way, and this, 225 Pole and 3 Quarters.  
See here an Example or two more, first demonstrated by Decimals, and then wrought the ordinary way.  
Whether is 2 Rod and ½ square, or 2 Rod and a ¼ one way, and 2 Rod and ¾ another way, more?  
For if you work by a Decimal Chain, that is, a Rod Divided into a 100 Links or parts, Multiply that in its self, it makes 10000; the half of that is 5000, which is half a Rod; a Quarter of a Rod, is 2500; and one eight part of a Rod or half a Quarter, is 1250; one sixteenth part is 625 square Links; and three Quarters 7500; so that two Rod and a half is six Rod and a quarter of Ground.  
Examp. 2 Rod and 3 quarters And 2 Rod and a quarter  
So that it appears by this, that two Rod and a half square is more than 2 Rod and ¾ one way, and 2 Rod and a ¼ another way, by one sixteenth part of a Rod; for if you add 1875, and 625 (the sixteenth part of a Rod) together, they will make 2500.  
But if you work by the fourpole Chain, one Link of it is four of this.   

The Demonstration of the preceding Examples.  
(See Fig. 44, 45.)  
See these two squares counted up the ordinary way; and first, two Pole and a half by two pole and a half is 6 pole and a quarter; for mind this, if the Number of poles be even Numbers, with half a pole to each of these Numbers, that is both to length and breadth, so that such a Figure comes always off with a Quarter.  
But if one of the Numbers be odd poles, and the other even, with both length and breadth ending in half a pole, as in the first Example, than always such a Figure ends in ¾ of a pole, as that doth.  
But if a Figure be two pole and ¾ one way, and two pole and ¼ the other, as the last was, it ends always in such a Decimal as this, 1875, that is half a quarter, and half half a quarter, that is ⅛ and 1/16 parts of a pole square.  
This way may you cast up the Content of a Ground very speedily, and Exact, if the middle Length and middle Breadth fall out in ¼, ½, or ¾ of a Pole; and this way you may sum up a Field before you do it decimally: And then one will be good proof to the other, which with little Practice will make you so perfect, that in small Fields you will readily tell the Content without Pen or Rule, only by Memory.  
These Rules may also be done by two turns of your Compasses on the Line of Numbers; and there is no way so ready, if once you come but to understand that most useful Line well.  
For, as the distance of one of the Numbers to be multiplied, is from one at the End of your Line, the same distance is the product from the other Number.   

Example of the Second Figure.  
As One is to Two and a half, the same Extent of your Compasses will reach from 2 and a half to 6 ¼ the Product.    

A Table of Board-Measure, by having the breadth of the Board in Inches, against which is showed the Quantity of one foot thereof in Length.  
The use of this Table:  
Breadth of the board in Inches. The quantity of one foot in Length.  f.pts. 1 0.083 2 0.167 3 0.250 4 0.333 5 0.417 6 0.500 7 0.583 8 0.667 9 0.750 10 0.833 11 0.917 12 1.000 13 1.083 14 1.167 15 1.250 16 1.333 17 1.417 18 1.500 19 1.583 20 1.667 21 1.750 22 1.833 23 1.917 24 2.000 25 2.083 26 2.167 27 2.250 28 2.333 29 2.417 30 2.500 31 2.583 32 2.667 33 2.750 34 2.833 35 2.917 36 3.000  
Having taken the Breadth of the Board in Inches, see what Number answereth it in this Table, and what Number you find against the Breadth in Inches, multiply by the Length of the Board or Glass, and cut off the three last Figures to the Right hand: thereby you shall have the Number in feet, and the parts cut off are parts of a foot.  

Example:  
A Board ten Inches broad, and ten foot long; against 10 you see is 0.833, which multiplied by 10, giveth 8330; then taking off 3 Figures, there remains 8, that is 8 foot and 33/100: But if you would measure this Board by the Line of Numbers, than set one point of your Compasses on 12, extend the other to the breadth in Inches, the same Extent will reach from the length in feet, to the Content. For as 12 (the side of a superficial foot square) is to the breadth in inches, which here is 10; so is the length in feet (which in this Example is 10,) to the Content in feet and parts, which is 8 foot 33/100: Note this for a general Rule, that if the Breadth be less than 12 Inches, then must you turn the Compasses to the left hand on your Rule; and if more than 12, then turn your Compasses from the Length in feet to the Right hand.  
Learn but to read your Line well, and this Rule, then may you measure any Board or Pain of Glass as easily as to tell ten, etc.     

CHAP. XLII.  
Of measuring Timber and other solid Bodies, with several Tables useful thereunto, etc.  
IN Board, Glass, Land, etc. we only took notice of the Length and Breadth, which was sufficient to find the superficial Content; but to measure solid Bodies we must take notice of the Length, Breadth and Depth. Most of solid Figures are measured by finding first the superficial Content of the Base, or one End, and multiplying that by the Length, if both Ends alike; but if tapering, then by ⅓ of the Length; and as superficial Measure hath 144 square Inches in one foot, and 72 square Inches in half a foot, and 36 square Inches in a Quarter: So 

In solid Measure 1728 square Inches make one foot,  
And 8.64 square Inches make half a foot,  
And 432 square Inches make a quarter of a foot.    
For every Inch square is like a Die, and so is a foot of solid Measure supposed to be; for what it wants either in Breadth or in Thickness, it must have in Length; so that in what form soever your solid Body is, that you measure, there must be 1728 solid Inches to make a foot; for 12 (the side of a foot) multiplied by 12 gives 144 for one side; and 144 multiplied by 12 (another side) gives 1728, the Cube-square Inches in a Cube-square foot.  
Now to find the solid Content of any piece of Timber or Stone that hath the sides equal, first find the superficial Content of the End, in Inches and parts; and multiply that by the Length in Inches, the Product is the Content in solid Inches: Then divide that sum by 1728 (the Inches in a foot,) the Quotient showeth you the Content in solid feet, and what remain are Inches. If you would work this by the Line of Numbers, the Rule is thus: 

Extend the Compasses from one to the Breadth in Inches;  
The same Extent will reach from the Depth to the Content of the End:  
Then extend the Compasses from one to this Content of the End;  
Keep your Compasses fixed, and that Extent will reach from the Length to the Content in solid Inches.    
But if your solid Figure hath both Ends alike, and in form of a Regular Polgone; that is, a piece of Timber hewed into 5, 6, 7 or 8 equal sides, etc. which is called by some A prism: then take the Semi-circumference, and multiply that by the Radius or Semi-diameter, that product by the Length giveth the Content.  
But if your solid Figure be a Cylinder, that is, a round piece of Timber or Stone; having both Ends equal Diameter, as a Roller, etc. here take the Semi-circumference, multiply it by the Semi-diameter, and the Area of that by the Length giveth the solid Content.  
Now many of the Bodies of our Timber-trees will be near this form of a Cylinder, but Custom hath got such footing (though very false,) that men will not measure their Timber the true way, but will still keep their Error, which is, to gird the middle of the Tree about with a Line, and take the fourth part thereof for the true square, and so measure it as a foursquare piece of Timber; but how false that is, may appear by the ensuing Tables. Whoever is pleased to try, will find, that there may be four Slabs taken off, to bring that to a Square, and that squared piece then will be near equal to the Measure they first measured the piece of Timber by; so that when they have brought their piece square by hewing or sawing, they then have the Measure that it was measured for when it was Round.  
But several men have demonstrated this false Rule to be false near ⅓, as Mr. Wing, Mr. Philip's, and others: Yet Custom doth and will keep its Road.  
I have already showed how to measure Timber by the Customary way, by the Line of Numbers, in Chap. 35, and 36. before-going, and for further satisfaction I refer you to these Tables following.  

A Table showing the solid Content of one foot Length, of any piece of Timber according to the superficial Content taken at the End thereof.  
The Inches at the End. f. pts. 1 0.007 2 0.014 3 0.021 4 0.028 5 0.035 6 0.042 7 0.049 8 0.056 9 0.062 10 0.069 20 0.139 30 0.208 40 0.278 50 0.347 60 0.417 70 0.486 80 0.556 90 0.625 100 0.694 200 1.389 300 2.083 400 2.778 500 3.472 600 4.167 700 4.861 800 5.556 900 6.250 1000 6.944 2000 13.888 3000 20.833 4000 27.778 5000 34.722 6000 41.666 7000 48.711 8000 55.555 9000 62.500 10000 69.444 20000 138.888  
Finding the superficial Content at the End of your Timber-stick or Stone, etc. let it be Round or Square, so it hath but the same Compass from one end to the other, against that Number is the feet and parts of one foot Length; and by multiplying that by the Length of your Stick, showeth the Content in square feet.  

Example:  
The superficial Content at the End being 200 Inches and 5 foot long, against 200 is 1 foot 389 parts, which multiplied by 5 (the Length,) yieldeth 6 foot and 945 parts, that is near 7 foot of Timber: But if the Number that is at the End be not in the Table, then add two Numbers together, and then take the Number which answereth them, and add them together, and multiply the Length by that sum, as before, etc.    

A Table showing the true Quantity of one foot length, in any true squared piece of Timber, for Inches and half Inches, from half an Inch square to 36 Inches square.  
I. fo. pts  0.002 1 0.007  0.016 2 0.028  0.043 3 0.062  0.085 4 0.111  0.140 5 0.174  0.210 6 0.250  0.293 7 0.340  0.390 8 0.444  0.502 9 0.562  0.627 10 0.694  0.765 11 0.840  0.919 12 1.000  1.085 13 1.174  1.266 14 1.361  1.460 15 1.562  1.668 16 1.778  1.891 17 2.007  2.127 18 2.250  2.377 19 2.507  2.641 20 2 778  2.918 21 3.062  3.210 22 3.361  3.516 23 3.673  3.835 24 4.000  4.166 25 4.340  4.513 26 4.694  4.877 27 5.063  5.250 28 5.445  5.670 29 5.840  6.043 30 6.250  6.460 31 6.673  6.890 32 7.111  7.333 33 7.562  7.780 34 8.028  8.263 35 8.507  8.750 36 9.000  
If you would enlarge this Table further, the Rule is this; As the square of 12 Inches (which is 144,) is to 1000, So is the square of another Number to another.  

Example.  
As in 36; the Square of it is 1296; then as 144 is to 1000, So is 1296 to 9 foot, etc. as is in the Table.    

The Use of the Table.  
The Square of a piece of Timber being found in Inches, and the Length thereof in Feet, to know the Content, take the Number answering to the Square of Inches, out of the Table, and multiply it by the Length in feet.  

Example.  
A piece of Timber 18 Inches square, and 25 foot long; the Number answering to 18 Inches square, is— Which multiplied by 25 (the Length)  Which is 56 foot and one quarter. 
A piece 18 Inches square at the End, and one foot long, is 2 foot and 1/40.    

A Table showing by the Compass of Round Timber, what is contained in a Foot length thereof.  
Co. fo. pa. 10 0.055 11 0.066 12 0.079 13 0.093 14 0.108 15 0.124 16 0.141 17 0.159 18 0.179 19 0.200 20 0.221 21 0.243 22 0.267 23 0.292 24 0.318 25 0.343 26 0.374 27 0.403 28 0.433 29 0.465 30 0.497 31 0.531 32 0.566 33 0.602 34 0.639 35 0.677 36 0.716 37 0.756 38 0.798 39 0.840 40 0.884 41 0.929 42 9.974 43 1.021 44 1.070 45 1.119 46 1.169 47 1.220 48 1.273 49 1.327 50 1.381 51 1.437 52 1.496 53 1.552 54 1.612 55 1.671 56 1.732 57 1.795 58 1.860 59 1.923 60 1.988 61 2.056 62 2.124 63 2.193 64 2.264 65 2.335 66 2.406 67 2.480 68 2.555 69 2.631 70 2.707 71 2.785 72 2.864 73 2.945 74 3.026 75 3.108 76 3.191 77 3.276 78 3.362 79 3.449 80 3.537 81 3.625 82 3.715 83 3.807 84 3.866 85 3.990 86 4.084 87 4.183 88 4.279 89 4.377 90 4.475 91 4.576 92 4.677 93 4.780 94 4.882 95 4.987 96 5.093 97 5.200 98 5.307 99 5.416   

The Use of this Table is as followeth:  
Look for the Compass of the Tree in Inches, and in the Column annexed you have the Quantity of Timber in one Foot length; which multiply by the Number of feet that the Tree is in Length, and the Product is the Content thereof.  

Example.  
The Circumference or Compass of a Tree 47 Inches, and 12 foot long; the Number against 47 Inches is, 1.220: So there is so much in one foot Length, Which multiplied by 12 gives the Content, That is, 14 foot and above half a foot.    

This Table shows how many Inches in Length make one Foot of Timber, according to the Compass of the piece of Timber, from 10 Inches Compass, to 100 Inches Compass.  
Co. In. pts 10 217.15 11 179.46 12 150.80 13 128.49 14 110.79 15 94.312 16 84.822 17 75.137 18 67.020 19 60.151 20 54.286 21 49.228 22 44.865 23 40.904 24 37.690 25 34.743 26 32.122 27 29.787 28 27.697 29 25.820 30 24.127 31 22.596 32 21.206 33 19.936 34 18.784 35 17.736 36 16.755 37 15.862 38 15.038 39 14.276 40 13.572 41 12.916 42 12.310 43 11.744 44 11.211 45 10.723 46 10.262 47 9.830 48 9.425 49 9.044 50 8.686 51 8.349 52 8.030 53 7.730 54 7.447 55 7.178 56 6.924 57 6.684 58 6.455 59 6.238 60 6.030 61 5.836 62 5.649 63 5.471 64 5.301 65 5.140 66 4.985 67 4.837 68 4.696 69 4.561 70 4.432 71 4.308 72 4.198 73 4.075 74 3.965 75 3.861 76 3.760 77 3.663 78 3.569 79 3.479 80 3.393 81 3.310 82 3.230 83 3.152 84 3.078 85 3.006 86 2.936 87 2.869 88 2.804 89 2.742 90 2.681 91 2.622 92 2.566 93 2.511 94 2.458 95 2.406 96 2.356 97 2.307 98 2.261 99 2.216 100 2.171   

The Use of this Table.  
Having taken the Circumference of the Tree in Inches, look that Compass in the Table, and against it you may see how many Inches or parts of an Inch make one Foot of Timber; then with a Ruler or a pair of Compasses (which are better,) measure how many times you can find that in the Length of the piece of Timber, and so many Foot is in that piece of Timber: This is a most useful Table to measure your Timber-trees by.  

Example.  
The Compass of a Tree being 84 Inches about, than three Inches and 078/1000 make one Foot; take with your Compasses three Inches 078 from off a Scale, and so many times as there is that Length in your Tree, so many foot of Timber are there, etc.  
If any Tree be above 100 Inches Circumference, then take half that Circumference, and find the Number belonging thereto in the Table, then take one fourth part of it, and that makes one foot of Timber: Suppose a Tree to be 146 Inches about, the half of it is 73, against this in the Table is 4 Inches 075 parts; one quarter thereof, (viz. one Inch 019 parts) makes one foot of Timber at that Circumference.  
These Tables, with what hath been before said, will be sufficient to measure any Cylinder by, and how to measure a Cone I have showed already. A Cone is such a Figure as the Spire of a Church, having a Circular Base, and ending in a sharp point. It is measured by the superficial Content of the Base, multiplied by one third part of the Altitude or Length. A Pyramid, or Pyramid, is such a Figure as hath an angular Base, and ends in a sharp point, which is measured as the Cone is. A Sphere or Globe, is a solid Figure, every where equally distant from the Centre; it is measured by cubing the Diameter, and multiplying that by 11, and dividing that product by 21, the Quotient showeth the solid Content of the Sphere.  
There be several other sorts of solid Figures, as several parts of the Sphere, but they all depend on the proportion of a Circle, and its Diameter.  
Also the Hexaedron, which hath 6 Bases; Octaedron 8 Bases; Dodecaedron 12 Bases; and several other; which to name I shall forbear.     

CHAP. XLIII.  
Of the Oval, how to make it, and how to measure it, with other Observations thereon.  
HAving the Length and Breadth of the Oval given you, you may take the whole Length and half the Breadth, as is showed before in bringing three Pricks into a Circle, and from the Centre of these three points draw half the Oval, and so likewise the other half, as you see the Oval in the Figure drawn; for the point F. is the Centre of the Arch A B C, and the Arch A G C is made by the same Rule, and where the Line F H. crosseth the Line A E C, as at K, there is the Centre of the breadth B G, and the End A; from the Centre K may you make the Ends of your Oval Round as you please; so that from four Centres you may make the Ends of your Oval round as you please; but if they be made from two Centres, as that is, then will the Ends be more Acute.  
Or you may make your Oval thus: Having resolved on the breadth, draw the sides from Centres in the Mid-line of the breadth, as before; then set up two sticks exactly in the Mid-line of the Length, at equal distance from each End, then hold the Line at one, and turn the Line to the side of the Oval, and then on the other side the stick, with the same length, so may you make the Ends of your Oval as Round as you please; for the nearer you place these sticks in the Centre of the length and breadth of the Oval, the nearer Round your Oval is made, even till you come to a Circle: This way your Ingenious Workmen make their Ovals in small works, as your Plasterers, Joiner's, &c. and it is a good way, and so common that I need not say more to teach how to make an Oval of any bigness; but here I shall take occasion to show the Figure of one at Cashiobury now made.  
(See Fig. 46.)  
To measure this Oval, which is 28 Rod long, and 19 Rod broad, as 'tis now staked out at Cashiobury, intended for a Kitchen-Garden: This Oval being made of 2 Segments of a Circle whose Semi-diameter is 15 Rod, as 'tis found by making the Oval; it being the Centrepoynt of each Arch-line of this Oval, as the lines F A. F B. and F C.  
Now, to find the length of one of these Arch-lines, is showed before; which I find to be 18 Rod, the half length of one, which is showed by the line D D. so the whole length of one Arch is 36, and both Arches round the Oval is 72 Rod.  
Now, take the ½ of one of the Arch lines, which is 18, and the Semi-diameter of that Arch, which is 15 Rod; Multiply the one by the other, and it is 270 Rod, which is the Figure A. B. C. F. that is half of the Oval; and the Triangle A. F. C. which must be substracted out of the 270, than the Semi-Oval will be 192 Rod.  
For the Base A. C. is 28 Rod, which is the length of the Oval; and the Perpendicular of the Angle, which is E F. is 5. 57  
Now, half the Base (which is 14) Multiplied by the whole Perpendicular 5 57/100 gives 77 98/100, which is 78 Rod ferè: this taken from 270 (the Area of the Figure A. B. C. F.) there then remains 192 Rod, which is half of the Oval; that doubled is 384 Rod, which being Divided by 160, showeth that the Content of this Oval will be 2 Acres and 64 Rod.  
But if your Oval be round at the end, as your Ovals are that be made with 4 Centres, than they be more difficult to be Measured; however these Rules are sufficient.  
An Oval is no ill Figure for a Garden; for if the Garden-wall be an Oval, and the length of the Oval point North and South, as the aforementioned Oval doth (A. being the South point, C. the North) then may such a Wall be Planted with Trees, both inside and outside, and have never a Tree stand to the North Aspect; for it you make your going in at the South end of your Oval, then will those 2 Trees or Tree that stood on the inside, or were to stand there, be removed from the North aspect to the North-East, and North-West, according to the largeness of your Gate; so will every 2 Trees on the inside of your Wall tend nearer the South-point, till they come to the point C. which is South; and then the Trees on the outside, every 2 Trees will fall nearer the North-point at C. till you leave that point of the Oval between 2 Trees, so will not one Tree stand to the North aspect, and but few near the North aspect; the like whereof no other Figure can do, that I can think of.  
An Oval with the ends pointing East and West is no ill Figure for a Garden; for the walls in this, as in the other, are not so subject to oppose the winds as strait walls be, therefore not so blasting, as you may well conceive.  
2. Ovals on each side the Front of your House, would be no ill Prospect, but in many things very convenient; these being at equal distance from the middle of your Front, and pointing upon your Lawn, etc.   

CHAP. XLIV.  
Suppose you have a Plate to draw on one or many Sheets of Paper, and you would draw it as large as the Paper will bear; to know what Scale you shall draw it by.  
IF it be a sheet of Dutch Paper, about 21 Inches long, and the length of the Draft you would draw is 402 foot long, and you would draw it as large as you can on this sheet, that your work may show itself the better, and yet not to go off of the Paper; now to know of what Scale of so many parts in one Inch to draw your Draft by, do thus: Divide the Length of your Draft by the length of your Paper, and the Quotient shows how many parts that Inch must be divided into, to draw this Draft by; as,  

Example.  
402 divided by 21, gives in the Quotient 19 and 3 over; so then, you may draw this Draft on this Paper, which is 21 Inches, by a Scale of one Inch divided into 19 parts.  
But if it be a sheet of ordinary Paper, of 16 Inches long, and you would draw the same Draft on it, though in a less Form, then divide 402 by 16.  
So that for a sheet of 16 Inches long, a Scale of one Inch divided into 25 parts, will serve to draw your Draft by on such a Paper.  
But if it be required to draw the Draft of a Garden, or the like, on a quarter of a sheet of Paper, then observe the ensuing Directions.  
As suppose I were to draw the Draft which is now the Garden at Cashiobury, the Length of the Garden is 402 foot, and this quarter of a sheet of Paper is 7 Inches long; I divide 402 by 7, and the Quotient is 57 and almost a half, viz. 57 and 3/7;:  
But finding this Scale to be so small, and also a Number (viz. 57) whereof I cannot take the half; I likewise finding that my Paper will bear 7 Inches and a half in length, I divide 402 the length of the Garden by 7 and ½, the length of this Paper, and find the Quotient to be 53 and a half, and better.  
This Scale being yet so small, I take the half of 54, which is 27, remembering that every one of these 27 parts in the Inch, is two foot on my Paper.  
(See Fig. 47.)  
The pricked Lines show the top of every Slope.  
The two Mounts A A. are to be set with Trees, so are the tops of all the Slopes where the pricked Lines be, but being not yet set, I shall not show them.  
The Walks marked with O. are to be Gravel.  
The Circle B. is intended for a Fountain.  
The Letter C. showeth where the Orange house is.  
The Letters g g. show one Front of the Dwellinghouse.  
The rest Grass.  
This is only as it is intended to be, etc.    

CHAP. XLV.  
To find what Scale a Plate or Draft is drawn by, the Content of the Ground being given.  
SUppose a piece of Ground or Field to be 30 Acres, and I measure this Plot by a Scale of 10 in the Inch, and by that Scale it makes but 17 Acres and 3 Roods, or 17 Acres and ● now the Question is, What Scale was it drawn by? The work is somewhat difficult by natural Arithmetic, but by Artificial, and the Line of Numbers more easy.  

Example, by that excellent Table the Table of Logarithmes.  
First find out the mean proportional Number between the true quantity of Acres, (viz. 30.) and the Quantity of Acres found by the supposed Scale (viz. 17 ¾) which you may do thus: Add the Logarithmes of these two Numbers together, the half of that sum is the Log. of the mean Proportional required; as thus: 

The Log. of 30 is 1.47712  
The Log. of 17 ¾ is 1.24919  
The 2 sums added together 2.72631  
The half of the Log: 1.36315  
The Number answering to—  
this Logarithme is 23. 08/ 100:    
This Number is the mean proportional Number of 30 and 17 ¾:  
Having thus found the mean proportional Number to be 23.08, the Rule in the Second place is thus:  
As the Log. of this 17 Acres ¾, found by the supposed Scale, is to the Log of the mean Proportional (23.08) of the true Quantity of Acres, and the supposed Quantity, so is 10 (the supposed Scale) to the true Scale; as thus: 

The Logarithme of 17 ¾ is 1.24919  
The Log. of 23. 08/100 is 1.36315  
The Log. of 10 is 1.00000  
1.11396    
The Number answering this Logarithme is 13; which tells me that the true Scale that this Plate was drawn by, is a Scale of one Inch put or divided into 13 parts.  
The way to work the Golden Rule, or Rule of Three by Log. is, to add the Log. of the third Number and second Number together, and to subtract the Log. of the first Number, and then the Number answering the Log. that remains after Substraction, is the fourth Number.  
But here I have made no Addition, but substracted the first Number on't of the second and third, which is all one in Operation.   

How to work the same Question on the Line of Numbers.  
Having found the Point on your Line, which is 30, and the Point representing 17 ¾, find out the point which is the midst between these two; and that very point is the Mean Proportional between these two Numbers; which here is 23 and better; for if you set one point of your Compasses on 23 08/100, that Extent from thence to 30 will also reach from that to 17 ¾.  
Then (as before is showed) say, as 17 ¾: is to 23 08/100, So is 10 to 13 (the true Scale sought:)  
Therefore extend your Compasses from 17.75: to 23 08/100, that Extent will reach from 10 to 13.  
Thus you may see how readily this Question is wrought by Log. without Multiplication or Division, and also by the Line of Numbers, with two turns of your Compasses.  

Example Second.  
If a piece of Ground, or the side of a House be 100 Acres, Rods, or the like, and you measure it by a Scale of 12, and find it to be but 56 22/100, if you would know what Scale, in proportion to this, the Draft or Plot was drawn by, then work by the aforesaid Rules thus:  
Find the Mean proportional Number of 100 and 56.22 thus, by taking the half of them 2 Log. and the Number answering that, is the Mean proportional Number, as thus: 

Logarithme of 100 is— 2.00000  
Log. of 56. 22. is— 1.74989  
74 98/100 the mean Proportional 1.87494  
Log. of 12 is— 1.07918  
Added— 2.95412  
The Number answering this Log. 1.20423    
Now the nearest in whole Numbers is 16, which is the Scale by which the Draft or Plot was drawn.  
This also you may work by Gunter's Line, as is before showed; for if you take the middle point between 100 and 56.22, you will find it to be near 75; for if you set one point on or near 75, and extend the other to 100, that Extent will reach from 75 also to 56.22; so that 75 is the mean Proportional Number between them two.  
Then if you extend your Compasses from 56.22, to 75, that Extent will reach from 12 (the supposed Scale) to 16, the true Scale: thus having showed you several hints of this Line of Numbers, I will here show a few more.     

CHAP. XLVI.  
The Description of the Line of Numbers, or Gunter's Line.  
THis Line commonly on your two foot Rule is in two parts, and each of these two parts divided into 9 unequal parts, which be called Primes, or Integers, or whole Numbers, and are distinguished by these Figures; the first part to the left hand hath 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10: Now this Middle one, which I call 10, is also but one, as the line may be read: and then the second part to the Right hand is also 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10: Now this last part I shall for distinction call the Second Part, and then each of those Integers from the first one to the middle, is subdivided into 10 unequal parts, and from the middle one to 10 at the end of the Second part, between every two Figures, according to the same order that the other were divided into 10 parts; and each of these 10 parts should be divided into 10 parts more, if the Rule were long enough to bear them; but on every two-foot Rule that hath this line well made on it, they be from the Middle one, to two in the Second part, first divided into 10 parts, and then each of these into 10 other parts; and were the Rule long enough: these should be divided into 10 other parts; but to read a sum of a Thousand, you must estimate or guess at the Unite, so that you may read any sum under a thousand, expressly, from the first one to 10; in the Second Part you may read 199 expressly, the middle one being 100, than 9 tenths is 90, and 9 tenths of them tenths is 9, that is, 199; which is the Division next to 2 in the second part of your Rule.  
By this you may observe, that the longer your Rule is, the more exactly you may number or read a great sum, especially if you understand Arithmetic; as may be seen more fully in the Rules of Arithmetic following.   

CHAP. XLVII.  
Numeration on the Line, or to read a sum on the Line of Numbers.  
YOu may observe, that the Figures on this line, as in the preceding Chapter, are, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, and 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10; Now the same point or Division on the Rule, which hath 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, etc. may be read 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, etc. or they may be called 100, 200, 300, 400, 500:  
By this you may perceive, that the larger Numbers you have to number, any of those Figures will admit of a larger Denomination; so that if you be to read any sum from one to 10, you have it in the Second part, for then the first one is one tenth, the middle one is one, the End one is 10; but if you be to read a Number of three Figures, (as any is under 1000) then the first one is 10, the middle one 100, the End one 1000  

Example.  
To find 144, I take the middle one for the 100, than 4 of the great Divisions forward for 40, than 4 Divisions (forward still to the Right hand) for 4, and that point is 144, which may also be called fourteen and 4/10, or 1450, or 14500; then must the middle one be 10000, and 4 tenths forward, 4000; and 5 tenths forward, 500; this point wants but five small Divisions of the long point, which is 15, or 150, or 1500, or may be 15000, according as your sum is in greatness.   

Example.  
To find the point 12; first I read the middle one 10, than 2 tenths forward for 2, that is the point 12, where (in many Rules) there is a Brass Pin, because it is a Point much used, as you will find hereafter; now this point 12, is also 120, or 1200; for the first one being one, than the middle one is 10, and two tenths forward is the point 12, etc. but if you read this point 120, than the first one is 10, the middle one 100, and two tenths forward 20, which is 120; and if it be read 1200, than the middle one is 1000, and two tenths forward 200, which is 1200, etc.   

Example.  
To find the Number 1728, being the Cube-Inches in a foot of Timber; the middle one is 1000, than 7 tenths forward is 700, and two tenths of them forward is 20: Now the Divisions on the Rule do not show the 8 that remains, therefore you must estimate the place for 8, which is almost one tenth more; so having found that place, 'tis the point which is for 1728; so, in many great sums, you must estimate or guess at the Unite, but Decimal sums do show themselves more plainly, as you may well perceive hereafter, especially when they end with a cipher or Ciphers.  
I hope you now plainly see the use in Reading, or numbering any sum, under 10000; and that you see also, that this is a Decimal Line, and is taken from that excellent Rule of Decimals, the Canon of Logarithmes; and that you may read any Decimal Fraction, as one tenth, one of 100, or one of 1000, or 2/10, 3/10, 4/10, or 15/100, 26/100, 71/100, etc. that is, if the Integer be in 10 parts, you may find out any of these parts; or if in 100 parts, you may find out any part from one to 100 readily.  
Ex. If the Integer be 10, that is if 10 make one foot, yard, pound, or the like, I would know the point of one and 5/10, or one and ½; take either the middle one, or the first one, extend the Compass point to 5, which is the longest Division between 1 and 2, that is, the point of one and 5 tenths, or one and a half.   

Example.  
If it were required to find the point of 100 50/100, or 100 and half, 'tis the same point, or it is 1000 and a half.   

Example.  
If it be to find the point of 60 of 100, than the middle one is the 100, and the figure 6 in the first part is the figure that is 60 of a 100, or, 60/100, or as decimal fractions commonly are writ. 60, the prick before, showing it to be a decimal fraction.   

Example.  
To find 1560, take the middle one for 1000, and five tenths for 500, and 6 tenths of them tenths for 60, which is the point 1560 etc. Also if it be desired to find the fraction 1560, of 10000, that is the same point, and may thus be writ 1560/10000; or it is the point that represents the fraction 156/1000 etc. Be perfect to read the Line well, then will the other Rules be easy.    

CHAP. XLVIII.  
Addition on the Line of Numbers.  
THe Rule is, first find one of your numbers, then count so many as the number or numbers are forward, that is to the right hand, and that is the Sum. Take notice that your sum or sums must (if they be fractions) be Decimal fractions.  
Example, In whole numbers, 55 and 15, first find 55, then count 15 forward, and the point is 70; for add 5 to 55 it makes 60, and count 10 forward, the point is 70.  
Example, In 3 whole numbers 60, 57 & 35; first find 60, than 5 ten forward is 110, and 7 of a tenth, 'tis then 117, then from that point count 35, and the point or Division showeth 'tis 152.  
Example, A whole number and a Decimal, as 6 and 9/10 find 16 on either part of your Rule: then count 9 of the 10 Divisions, that is between 6 & 7, which is one Division short of 7, and that is the point, which is 6 and 9 tenths, or thus 6 9/10, or 6.9; it also may be read 6 90/100 for 'tis the point of that also.  
Example, 2 whole numbers and 2 fractions, as 60, 80, and 70.50; I take 60, and count 7 tenths forward, which is at the point 130; Not here the middle one being read 100, than 3 tenths forward are for 30; then for the 80 and 50, which is 130, I count one tenth more, which then is 131, and being the Divisions on the Line fall so close, you must estimate or guess the 90/100 or 'tis but adding the 2 last figures together, and keep the unite in your mind, to add to your other sum, and so you may be exact; add 50 and 80 together, it makes 130, keep 30 in mind as in this Example, I neglect the 2 Ciphers and add 8 and 5 together, which is 13, or add 80 and 50 make 130; now them 2 Ciphers added together make but one cipher added to 13, is 130; that is, one Integer, and 30 of another; but if the 80 and 50 had been only 8 and 5, then 10 had been the Integer, and the 3 had been 3/10 of one; and note this, that if the Integer, or whole sum that the fraction belongs to, in Decimal fractions, I say, if the Integer be 10, then from one to 10 is the Decimal fraction of that; and if the Integer be a 100 then from one to a 100 is the Decimal of that; if a 1000, then from one to a 1000, the Decimal of a 1000 may be; and so of greater sums: so that in Decimals there is no improper fraction, as is in your vulgar fractions, for there you may find the denominator more than the numerator if the fraction be a proper fraction, but if an improper fraction, than the Denominator less than the Numerator; as may be seen at large in most books that treat of fractions; see Mr. Wingates Arithmetic natural: so that decimal fractions may be expressed without the denominator by fixing before the decimal or broken number propounded, as 12 35/100 is thus, 12.35; and 2 98/100 thus, 2.98 etc. or 2 5/10 or 2 ½ may thus be writ, and is in Decimals writ 2.5, that is 2 and a half; for in this Example the Integer is 10, and then 5 being half 10, so 'tis 2 and a half.  
I have been large on this Rule, because I would write to those that do not know any thing of these Rules, as well as to those that be well versed in them; my desire is to learn the one, and to show the other that which I could never see yet in any Book, viz. new Examples.   

CHAP. XLIX.  
Substraction on the Line of Numbers.  
THe Rule is, first find the point which the great Numbers make, then count the least number from that point, towards the left hand, the Remainder is the other Number.  
Example of two Numbers, as 12 from 144, first I find 144, there I set one point of my compass, and count to the left hand 12; then reading the point that remains, I find it to be 132.  
Example, of 3 Numbers; suppose you were to subtract 8 and 19 from 800, add 8 and 19 together, which is 27, then find the point 800, then count 2 tenths and 7 of ten from the point 800, to the left hand, this showeth the point 773, which is the Question: This rule is seldom used on the Line, therefore I shall say no more of it, but come to the most useful rules on the Line, viz. Multiplication, Division, the Rule of 3 etc.   

CHAP. L.  
Multiplication on the Line of Numbers.  
THis Rule is thus; Extend the Compasses from 1 to one of the numbers to be Multiplied, the same Extent will reach from the other number to the content.  
Example, If you be to multiply 6 by 8; extend the Compasses from one to 6, keep the Compasses fixed, and that same Extent will reach from 8 to 48, the Content; or if you set one point of your Compasses on 1, and extend the other to 8 at that exent, if you set one point of your Compasses on 6, the other point will reach to 48, the content; as was before described.  
Note that your Rule must be divided into 10 equal parts, and these 10 parts each of them into 10 other equal parts; thus will your foot be divided into a 100 equal parts, and thus must your yard, pole, etc. be divided; then will these parts answer the Line of Numbers which is a a decimal line.  
Example 2d. If a stone or board be 14 Inches broad, and 30 Inches long, how many Inches are there in that stone, board, & c? Extend the Compasses from 1 to 14, the same extent will reach from 30 (the length) to 420, the content in superficial Inches.  
But if you would know how much of this breadth will make a foot square of board, glass, or stone, the rule is this; as the breadth in Inches is to 144 the superficial Inches in one foot, that Extent will reach from one to the length of one foot in Inch-measure.  
Example 3d. Set one point of your Compasses on 14 (the breadth,) extend the other to 144; that extent will reach from one to 10 and near 3/10, and so much makes a foot long, at 14 Inches broad, superficial Measure: To prove this, if you multiply 14 by 10 3/10, the product will be 144 2/10; so it is but 2 of 10, or one fifth part more.  
But the most customary way to measure Board, Glass, Stone, or any thing that is measured by superficial Foot-measure, is, by Inch-measure and Foot-measure together. And the Rule is this: As 12 (the side of a foot square) is to the breadth in Inches, so is the Length in Feet or Parts, to the Content in Feet or Parts.  
Example 4. Shall be in the aforesaid Example, to make the Rule more plain: Set one point of your Compass always on 12, extend the other to the breadth in Inches, which is 14, that Extent will reach from two foot and a half (which is 30 Inches) to near 3 foot, viz. to two foot 9/10 and better, as before.  
But note, if the Breadth in Inches be more than 12, as in the last Example, then must you turn your Compasses from the Length in feet and parts to the Right hand; but if the breadth be less than 12 Inches, then must you turn your Compasses from the length in feet to the Lefthand: And because this Rule is the most used, see another Example, for this way most men do measure by.  
Example 5. A Board ten Inches broad, and 6 foot long, how many foot are there in that Board? Extend your Compasses from 12 (the standing number) to 10 (the breadth in Inches,) that Extent will reach from 6 the length in feet (to the left hand) to 5 the Content in feet; for as 12 is to 10, so is 6 to 5.  
Thus having showed some Examples in superficial measure in Multiplication, here I shall show a few Examples in solid Measures; and first know, that you must take the superficial Content of the Base or End of the Piece of Timber or Stone, etc. whether it be Round, Square or Triangle, which you may do by Multiplication, as is before showed; then multiply the Content of the Base by the Length of the piece, and the product giveth the solid Content of the piece.  
Example Sixth. A piece of Timber 14 Inches Broad, and 10 Inches deep, and 30 Inches long, how many square Inches in that piece of Timber?  
Set one point of your Compasses on one, extend the other to 10 (the depth;) that Extent will reach from 14 (the breadth) to 140, the Content of the Base.  
Then set one point of your Compasses on one, and extend the other to 30 (the Length,) that same Extent will reach from 140 (the Content of the Base,) to 4200 the solid Content of the piece in Inches.  
But if you would find the Content of this piece of Timber, or any other, in feet and parts, you may do it thus: Find the Content of the Base, as before; then as the square Inches in a foot (viz. 1728,) is to the Content of the Base, so is the length in Inches, to the Content in feet and parts.  
Example 7. How many feet and parts are there in the piece of the last Example, which was 14 Inches broad, and 10 Inches deep, and 30 Inches long; having found the Base, as before, to be 140, then extend the Compasses from 140 to 728, that same Extent will reach from 30 (the Length in Inches) to two foot and near a half, viz. to two foot, 744 Inches; you must turn your Compasses from 30, towards the left hand.  
But if you desire to know how much in length makes a foot, than the Rule is thus: As the Content of the Base is to 1728 (the Inches in a foot square) that same Extent will reach from 1 to the Number of Inches or parts which will make a foot at such a Length.  
Example 8. Of the same piece of Timber mentioned in the last Example; the Base you may find (as before) to be 140, then extend the Compasses from 140 (the Base) to 1728, (the Inches in a foot square) that same Extent will reach from 1 to 12, and little more than 35/100; for if you multiply 12 35/100 by 140, the product will be 1729, which is but one more than the Inches in a foot. And here you may note the Error that many men commit in adding the Breadth and Depth together, and take the half of that sum for the true square; and the more the sides differ, the more they be mistaken.  
The same Error is daily committed by those which measure Timber; for they take the Circumference in the middle of the piece of Round Timber, and one fourth part of that they take for the true square of the piece, which is altogether false, (as I said before) though Custom doth strongly uphold that error against Reason. But if it be a true squared piece of Timber, than you may measure it this way, very Readily; as,  
Example 9 A piece of Timber 10 Inches square, and 16 foot long.  
The Rule is this: Always set one point of your Compasses on 12, extend the other to the side of the square in Inches or parts, that Extent will reach from the Length in feet or parts, to a fourth Number, and from that Number to the Content in feet and parts; that is, it will reach from the Length of the piece of Timber in feet and parts, to the Content in feet and parts.  
As thus, in this Example; Extend your Compasses from 12 to 10 (the side of the square in Inches) that distance will reach from 16 (the Length in feet) at two turns of your Compasses, to 11 foot, and a little above 1/10, viz, 11 foot and 192/1728. Be sure always to remember, that if your piece of Timber be less than 12 Inches square, than you must turn twice from the Length of the piece, to the Left hand; but if more than 12 Inches, then to the Right hand twice.  
Now this being the way in use, I will show one Example more: of a Tree 30 foot long, having the Circumference 60 Inches; now the fourth part of 60 is 15, which I take for the side of a square equal to that Circle, as is usually done, though not with truth always.  
Example 10. Then I extend my Compasses from 12 to 15 (the side of the Square in Inches) and that Extent will reach from 30 (the Length in feet) to near 47 feet, the Content; this is the customary way, but if you look into the Table, pag. 174, you may there see, that 60 Inches Circumference, one foot length gives 1.988, which multiplied by 30, gives 59 foot and 640; here also you see the error of the customary way; but of this I have said enough already, and therefore shall give no more Examples now; but note this, that what is here said of Foot-measure, may also be applied to Pole, Yard, or the like.  
Having the Root given, by two turns of your Compasses, you may save two Multiplications, and find the square of that Root, and the Cube, etc. and so may you find as many Numbers as you please, in a continual Proportion.  
Example 11. The Root being given, extend your Compasses from one to 12, that Extent will reach from 12 to 144, the same Extent will reach from 144 to 1728; so then, if 12 be the Root, 144 is the square of that Root, and 1728 the Cube of that Root, etc. but note, that when you extend your Compasses from 1 to 12, the next turn will go off the Line; therefore you must seek 12 at the beginning of the Line, to the left hand, and then turn from that 12; note this in all Cases wherein your Compasses go off the Line.  
Thus having showed you (the Root being given) readily to find the Cube, I will now show you (the Cube being given) how to find the Root; and though this, and some other Examples before, be not done by Multiplication, yet because they depend one upon another, I do here show them.  
To extract the Cuberoot, the Rule is; divide the space between the Cube given, and 1, into 3 equal parts, and the distance of one of these 3 parts from 1, is the Root.  
Example. 11. The Cube 64 being given, what is the Root? divide the Distance from 64. to one into 3 equal parts, one third part of that distance will reach from one to 4, the Root; for the first third part will reach from 64 to 16 the square, the 2d third part from 16 to 4 the Root, the third part from 4 to one, for 4 times 4 is 16, and 4 times 16 is 64; the same Rule observe for any other number.  
Thus may you find the square of any Circle, or the end of a tree, the square equal to that Circumference, and so measure it as is before showed.  
Example 12. Having the Circumference of a Tree, you would know the side of a Square equal to that Circumference, as, in the 10th. Example the Circumference was 60 Inches, now to find the Content in superficial Inches of such a Circle, the Rule is as is before showed, as 22 is to 7, so is the Circumference to the Diameter; now if you Extend your Compasses from 22 to 7, that Extent will reach from 60 to 19 and 2/22, the Diameter, this Fraction may be turned into a Decimal Fraction, and so wrought, but being so small it is not worth minding in such operations as this: then if you take half the Diameter and ½ the Circumference, and multiply one by the other, or if you Extend your Compasses from one to 9 and ½, that Extent will reach from 30 to 285 the superficial content in Inches, then to find the square by the Line of Numbers, that is, to find a Number which if Multiplied in its self, makes this Sum; the Rule is, Extend your Compasses from 285 to one, and the middle between these 2 Numbers is 16 882/1000 very near, as here you may see; but first note, that if your Rule have but the Lines on it that most of your ordinary Rules have, that is, but 2 Lines on it as 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8 9; and 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9 10; then this Question may be some trouble to work on such a Rule; but if your Rule hath 4 parts or 6 parts, as a 6 foot Rule may have, than this Question may be performed very readily, as you may hereafter better perceive; for if you take 285 in the second part of the Rule, then is the middle figure one, a 100; and the figure one at the end is 10; and the Rule is, that you must take the middle between 1 and 285, which here you cannot; for if you count the first one, one, the middle one is then 10. and the end one is 100, so then 285 is off from the Line; whereas if your Rule had another part added to it, than might you work, and read it very readily.  
But to work it by this Rule, you must take the distance from 100 to 285, that is from the middle one to 285, then take half of this distance and add it to half the length of the Line, and the Compasses will reach from 10 in the middle to near 17 (the side of a square equal to 285) as you may see it here proved by the pen.  
Here you may see that 16 882/1000 Multiplied by 16 882/1000, gives 285: and 001924/1000000, which Fraction being so small is not considerable.  
Many other ways there be to measure a Cyllinder, but this, after you have found the side of a square equal to the Circumference, Multiplied by the length is sufficient, etc.   

CHAP. LI.  
Division on the Line.  
THe Rule is, as one is to the Divisor, so is the Dividend to the Quotient; or as the Divisor is to the dividend, so is to 1 to the Quotient.  

Example.  
280 being to be divided by 5, set one foot of the Compasses on 5, and Extend the other to one, that Extent will reach from 280 to 56, the Quotient.  
Or thus, Extend the Compasses from 5 to 280, that distance will reach from 1 to 56, the Quotient.   

Example. 2.  
260. divided by 5 2/10; Extend the Compasses from 5 2/10 to 260, that Extent will reach from 1 to 50 the Quotient.  
By these Rules may you work any other Question in Division, for Division is easier than Multiplication, for in this (having the Sums given) you look for less, and in Multiplication the Sums being given, you may seek for greater.    

CHAP. LII.  
The Rule of Three on the Line.  
THis Rule, which by most is called the Golden Rule for its Excellent uses, is performed with much ease; only by 2 turns of your Compasses, and in working differs little from Division.  
The Rules are, if 4 Numbers are proportional, their order may be so transposed that each of those terms may be the last in proportion, in this manner.  

1. As the first is to the second, so is the third to the fourth.  
2. As the third is to the fourth, so is the first to the second.  
3. As the second is to the first, so is the fourth to the third.  
4. As the fourth is to the third, so is the second to the first. See Mr. Oughtreds Circles of proportion pag. 77.   
So that four proportional Numbers being desired to be known, if any three be given you may find the fourth.  
As if 2, 8, 6, and 24. be the Numbers given, these Numbers may be so varied (as is aforesaid) that if any three be given, you may find the fourth; Note,  
First, If 2 costs, gives or requires 8, then 6 costs, gives, etc. 24.  
Secondly, If 6 gives 24, than 2 will give 8.  
Thirdly, If 8 require 2, than 24 will require 6.  
Fourthly, As 24 is to 6, so is 8 to 2.  
Fiftly, Or thus it may be, as 2 to 6, so is 8 to 24.  
Here are five ways that will teach you, if you have three Numbers given, to find out the fourth proportionable to them, but the first and last are most useful, and are many times good proofs one of the other.  

Example.  
If 2 of any thing cost 8 sh. then 6 will cost 24. s. for if you Extend your Compasses from 2 to 8, that same distance will reach from 6 to 24, the Question; or if you Extend your Compasses from the first Number to the third Number, that same Extent will reach from the second number to the fourth, which was the thing sought.  
Extend your Compasses from 2 to 6, that same Extent will reach from 8 to 24, the Question as before, etc.   

Example. 2.  
If you sell your timber by the Load, that is, 50 foot to the Load ' at any price to know what it is a foot; as if you sell for 25 shillings the Load, what is that a foot? First, know how many pence is in 25 shillings, because your foot will cost pence and not a shilling; 25 shillings is 300 pence, than the Rule order itself thus, as 50 to 300, so is one to 6; therefore Extend your Compasses from 50 to 300, that distance will reach from 1 to 6; so then one foot costs 6 pence, the Question.  
If you would know the price of 2 Foot, than set one point of your Compasses on 2, the other will reach to 12, and so many Pence two Foot will cost; and so of any other sum.   

Example 3.  
If a Load of Timber, or 50 foot of Timber, etc. be sold for 37 s. 6 d. that is, 450 pence, what is that for one Foot? Set one point of your Compasses on 50, extend the other to 450, that same Extent will reach from 1 to 9, and so many pence will one Foot cost, at 37 s. 6 d. the Load. And if you would know what 6 Foot will cost, the same distance of your Compasses will reach from 6 to 54, and so many pence 6 foot will cost, at the aforesaid price.  
But now having the price of one Foot given you, and you would know what that is a Load; as if a Foot cost 9 d. the Rule is thus: Extend your Compasses from 1 to 9, that Extent will reach from 50 (which is a Load) to 450, the Pence that a Load costs; and if you would know what this is in Shillings, extend your Compasses from 12 to one, being 12 d. makes one Shilling, that Extent will reach from 450 to 37 and a half, that is, 37 Shillings and 6 pence, for ½ a Shilling is 6 d.   

Example 4.  
By this Line and Compasses you may soon find the Decimal Fraction of any sum, the Integer being but given: If it be required to know the Decimal Fraction of 15 s. the Pound or 20 Shillings may be 10000 or 1000 or more; for the larger you make this sum, the better will the Fraction appear. But because great sums cannot be so well wrought on the Line, I will take the Integer or 20 Shillings to be put into 100 parts; and than if you extend your Compasses from 20 to 100, that Extent will reach from 15 to 75, the Decimal of 15.  
Thus if you would know the Decimal Fraction of thirteen Shillings, if you keep the Extent of your Compasses fixed, which you took from 20 to 100, that Extent will reach from 13 to 65; So then 65 is the Decimal of thirteen Shillings. If you would know the Decimal of 5 Shillings, the same Extent will reach from 5 to 25, the Decimal of 5 Shillings. The Decimal of 2 Shillings is 10, the Decimal of one Shilling is 05, that is 5 of 100; for if that Cypner were not prefixed before it, than were it but 5 of 10. Thus by these Rules may you know any other Decimal Fraction.   

Example 5.  
If 100 l. gain 120 Shillings in one Year, or 6 l. what will 30 l. gain in the same time?  
Extend the Compasses from 100 to 120, that same will reach from 30 to 36, so that 30 l. will gain 36 shillings in one year, twelve months or 365 days.   

Example 6.  
If one year, or 365 days yield for the Interest of 20 pounds, 24 s. or 288 pence, what will 60 days yield for 20 l?  
Extend your Compasses from 365, the days in one Year, to 288, the Pence in 24 Shillings, that same Extent will reach from 60 to 47, and near a ½, so that 20 will yield in 60 days 47 Pence ¼ and better.  
These few Rules of many will show you the manner how to work the Golden Rule direct on the Line of Numbers: There is also the Golden Rule reverse, or backward Rule of Three, and though it is not so useful as the direct Rule, yet it is worthy to be known, for its excellent uses: The Rule of Three direct you see, the Number that is sought, aught to proceed from the second term, as the third did from the first in the same proportion: Therefore if you multiply the Second Number by the third Number, or the third by the second, their Product divided by the first, giveth the fourth.    

CHAP. LIII.  
The Golden Rule Reverse by the Line of Numbers.  
THE Rule of Three Inverse is when the Number sought proceeds from the second term in the same proportion as the first, proceeds from the third.  
And if the third Number be greater than the first, then will the fourth Number be less than the second: But if the third be less than the first, than the fourth will be greater than the second.  
In this Rule if you multiply the first term by the second, and divide the Product by the third, the Quotient showeth the fourth.  
The first Number and the third must be of one Kind, and the second Number or middle Number of the three given, must be of the same kind with the fourth.  

Example 1.  
If 24 Men do any piece of work in 16 days, how many men are required to do such another piece of work in four days. According to the Rules before named, though 24 be here propounded first, yet it must be in the Second place, and then the Question will order itself thus:  
As 4 is to 24, so is 16 to 96:  
Or thus, As 4 is to 16, so is 24 to 96.  
Therefore, extend your Compasses from 4 to 24, that same Extent will reach from 16 to 96.  
Or the Extent of 4 to 16 will reach from to 24 to 96,  
So that if 24 do a piece of work in 16 days, 96 will do as much in 4 days.   

Example 2.  
If 9 Bushels of Provender serve 8 Horses 12 days, how many days will that serve 16 Horses?.  
The Question will order itself thus: As 16 is to 8, so is 12 to 6.  
Or as 16 is to 12, so is 8 to 6.  
Extend your Compasses from 16 to 12, that Extent will reach from 8 to 6: So that if 9 serve 8 Horses 12 days, it will serve 16 but 6 days.  
If this Question had been in the Rule of Three direct, than it would have ordered itself thus: If 8 had cost 12, than 16 would have cost 24.  
But in this Inverse Rule, you must begin with 16, which is the third Number, and so work backward, as is before showed at large.   

Example 3.  
If such a Quantity of Biscuit will serve 100 men eight weeks, how many men will it serve ten weeks?  
In this Example, as in the other, you must begin with the third sum first, and so work back, as before; for here the third sum is 10, which you must begin withal, and the Question will order itself thus.  
As 10 is to 8, so is 100 to 80; therefore to work it by the Line, extend your Compasses from 10 to 8, that same Extent will reach from 100 to 80: So it will serve 80 men 10 weeks.  
There be many other Rules which may be wrought on the Line of Numbers: But if you would be further satisfied, see the works of Mr. Gunter, Mr. Wingat, etc. And I shall conclude with Holy David, Psal. 115. last Verse, as I hope you will with me; But we will praise the Lord, from henceforth and for ever. Praise ye the Lord.    

CHAP. LIV.  
Of Levelling any Ground, and to make Slopes or Batteries, etc.  
TO levelly any piece of Ground that you can see from side to side, or from the Middle to any side, go into the middle, and there set up your Instrument, be it Water-level, or Ground-level with sights, and when you have placed it so high as you may see over the highest part of the Ground, as half a foot, or a foot, than set a stake in the middle, the top exactly level with the sights; and one on the highest side, the top levelly with the middle stake; then turn the Level or Lood back sight, and set one Levelly with these two on the lowest ground: So have you three stakes in Line level: Keep your Level true to your Middle-stake, and turn your Level till it makes Right-angles with these three stakes, and set up two stakes at each side one Levelly with those three: So have you five stakes set true Level in two Lines; and if your Ground be large, you may set up two Rows more by the Level▪ but in small Grounds 5 stakes is enough: Then may you lay by your Level, and looking over the head of one to the head of another, cause your Assistant to put down stakes between two and two, till you have set as many stakes levelly in your Ground as you think convenient: Or you may have a Rule, and look over the edge of that, it being level with the head of the stake, to the head of the other, and put stakes down between you and the other stake, what Number you please.  
Thus having staked out your Ground with all the stakes heads level, and half a foot higher than the highest part of your Ground; in some Ground the middle-stake and the stakes in the Cross-line will be the Level-line the Ground must be brought to; that is, abating the hill, and filling up the low-side to the Level of the Mid-line; but if your Ground be very uneven, than you must measure over all the stakes, and take them middle-high, for their mean Level, and by the Rule of Three proportion your Ground to that.  
Suppose a Valley be 10 Pole long, and two foot deep from the strait Line, and there is a hill 5 Pole long, how many foot deep must I go in that 5 Pole of the Hill, to fill up this Valley? This may be answered by the Rule of Three Inverse, or back Rule of Three: The Rule order itself thus. As 5 is to 2, so is 10 to 4: So if you work it by the Line of Numbers, extend your Compasses from 5 to 2, that same Extent will reach from 10 to 4, so than you must go 4 foot deep in such a Hill, to make good such a Valley as is before said.  
Suppose you are to abutt the top of a Hill four foot deep and 1. 2 Pole from the top of that Hill, that 4 foot is to come out: this is easily performed, (though a Leveller to the best man in the Land did not understand it) set up a stake on the top of the Hill two foot or three foot long, above ground, and another at the same height where your depth comes out; three Rod from that set a stake down, till the head comes to be in a Line with these 2, and at that stake you must be one foot deep: At 6 Pole another as before, there you must be two foot deep; another at 9 Pole, there you must sink three foot. You may set more stakes at equal distances, which will direct you that you cannot go amiss.  
To make any Sloop, first line out your top and foot true, then if your Sloop be not very long, you may have a Frame of Wood made according to your Sloop, which will be as a Mould to try your work by. Two foot Rise, in 6 foot Level is a good Proportion for a Sloop.   

CHAP. LV.  
For making Cider observe these Rules.  
WHatsoever Apples you make your Cider of, let them hang on the Trees until they be through Ripe, which you may know by these few infallible Rules: First, if you find the Kernels Brown, or the Seed rattle in the Apple, as in some they will; or if you see them begin to fall much in still weather, or if you find them to handle like a dry piece of wood, sounding in your hand if you toss them up; than you may go to gathering as fast as you please, so your Fruit be dry; observe that the greener your Fruit is, the sourer will your Cider be; therefore be not too forward in gathering.  
For gathering your Apples, observe these Directions: Take care they be not too much bruised; for your bruised Fruit, if they be a little kept, will rot, and give your Cider an ill taste, and a high brown Colour, and not yield so well; for your bruised place of the Apple, if it doth not immediately rot, the Juice of that place will vapour forth, and be a dry Red, yielding little Taste or Liquor, but sometimes a bad taste.  
But to the making of one Hogshead of Cider, there is required a great many Apples; as if they be good yielding Fruit, and not too long kept, some 18 or 20 Bushel will make a Hogshead; if not, as aforesaid, then 24 Bushels, or more, to one Hogshead: Therefore, though I would not have your Apple too much Bruised, yet I would not advise you to pick them by hand: But you may lay a Truss or two of Barley Straw under your Tree when you go to gather them, and on that lay some Blankets (or the like) according to the Bigness of your Trees; thereon with Discretion shake your Fruit, letting not too many lie on at one time, but carry them to the Place where you intent they shall lie till you grind or beat them: Thus you may remove your Straw and Blankets from Tree to Tree, as your pleasure is.  
Now for keeping them after you have gathered them, let it be in some house if you can with convenience, and on some dry boards or boarded flowers, but if it be an Earth-flower you must lay them on, first cover it with good dry straw, and so lay them on that, for if you lay them on the earth they will decay faster, and turn musty before they have done sweeting; for 'tis observed that which is best to preserve Plants is the quite contrary to keep and preserve Fruit, for the holy Scripture telleth plain, that which a man soweth must first die, before it take root to live and produce its kind.  
Thus it may be with fruit lying on the ground, where the secret vapours of the earth tend much to the death or dissolution of the fleshy part of the fruit, that the seed might the sooner be at liberty, to produce its like in its several kinds; for Nature, or the secret providing power of the Almighty, is at all times, and in all places actuating and assisting every species to produce its kind; for any who hath but observed the Walnut or Chestnut, though one hath got his Fur Gown & the other his Nolimetangere Cloak, as to too of the senses, yet notwithstanding, when they be able to shift for themselves, (as I may say) than how willingly the Gown and Cloak is thrown aside, to venture boldly to the Earth, for to do as at first their parents did for them, but of this see further in the Chapters before; and since we are now speaking of one particular fruit, viz. Apples, of the time of their keeping before you make them into Cider: a set time I cannot deliver, for your Summer Fruit will be ready to beat before your Winter Fruit: but as soon as you have seen them sweat, which will be in ten days, or a fortnight, then to beating or grinding of them as fast as may be, keeping your Fruit several, if you have enough to fill a vessel of one kind, if not, put such kinds together as be near ripe together, the Cider will ferment more naturally.  
But let your winter fruit lie three weeks or a month before you beat or grind them: the greener your fruit is when gathered, let them lie the longer before you beat them: Thus when you have beaten or grinded your Apples: let them lie a night or 24 hours if you please before you press them, it will make your Cider have more of the Sack-Colour, and hinder it from Fermenting too much; and if your fruit be ripe to eat, or mellow, then put to every twenty Bushels of stampings some six gallons of clear water, put that on the top of the stampings as soon as you have beaten them; if your fruit be soft and mellow you may put more, if not, the less: this also will keep your Cider from fermenting too much, and though your Cider be weaker it will be much pleasanter: Therefore if your Apples be mellow before you beat them there will go so much of the fleshy substance of the Apple through the strainer or bag, with the Liquor that it will be hard to get this Lee separated from the Cider, before it begins to ferment, for the Liquor will endeavour to free itself of these little particles which when once separated from the united body, turneth to an earthy substance, and then the Liquor working hard to free itself of these then useless and decaying parts, and having no place to turn them out at, but at the bung, and it being contrary for these earthy parts to ascend upwards, causeth by its much fermenting, not only the strong, but also the pleasant Spirits to take their flight, and go into the great world to be ready to assist at another new generation, and so leave the Liquor both dead and of a four taste, which when these higher Spirits are fled, than soureness doth master the taste in the Cider, which it receives from the gross Lees in the vessel; therefore if your Cider be made of mellow fruit, let it settle 24 hours in some Fat or large vessel, that the gross Lees may settle to the bottom before you put it into your vessel, and then draw it off, leaving as much of this thick gross Lee behind as you can (which gross Lee you may put among your press for water-Syder) and if you think the Cider is yet so thick that it will work much, then draw it into another tub by a tap two or three inches from the bottom; and in this last tub let it settle so long as you think it is near ready to work in your tub: for if it work in your tubbs then will you get but little of the gross Lees from it: you must keep it covered all the time it is in your tubs; for note the finer you put it up into your Vessel the less it will work or ferment, and the less it fermenteth the better will your Cider be; but if you should have child the Cider, as sometimes it may so happen in cold weather, that it doth not work at all, when you have put it into your barrel, or hogshead, but is thick, in such a case put to a hogshead a pint of the juice of Alehoof, with half the quantity of Isinglass, and it will make it clear and fine; but if it do it not presently, do not despair, for it will ferment possibly in the spring or when the fruit blossoms that it was made on, the Spring after it was made.  
Having observed these few Rules, than put it into your barrel or hogshead, and as soon as it hath done working, bung it up, there keep it till it is fit to bottle, which let it be when it is fine; for if you bottle it while it is thick, or not well settled, it will endanger your bottles, and not be so wholesome: but some do love to have their Cider cutting, counting it then the better; this may be performed if your Cider be fine by putting a little bit of Loaf-Sugar, in every bottle, when you bottle it, and thus more wholesome.  
I am of the same opinion with Sir Paul Neal, that the oftener Cider by any accidental cause doth ferment, the worse it is; if twice it will be harder or sourer than if it had fermented but once: and if it ferment thrice it is still worse; therefore keep it if you can from fermenting or working too much, and also too often.  
As for the sorts of Fruit the Redstrakes and Jennet Moyle, are the best counted; yet there be many sorts of fruit which if the Cider be well ordered will be little inferior if not better: The Golden Pippin makes excellent Cider; the Kerton Pippin, the Russet Harvy, Kentish Codlin, etc. makes good, or indeed any Apple that is not a Crab; for there be many sorts of Wildings that have a fine Winy Liquor, and the flesh of a hard, and not of a soft substance; for that Fruit, (let it be Pear or Apple) that hath the flesh soft, and is soon Mellow is not good for Perry or Cider; for such very soft Fruit doth break into so many small particles, that they spoil your Cider before they can be separated, but that Fruit that hath its flesh hard, that when you beat and press it, will flat down like a sponge, sooner than it will separate into little particles; and if it be kept beyond its natural time of being ripe, will grow tough but not Mellow, is the only Fruit for Cider and Perry, for by Sir Paul's leave it is not always the best eating Apple or Pear that makes the best Cider or Perry, but such as aforesaid, no more than the best eating Pear is the best baked; and of this daily experience showeth the contrary.  
Much more I could say concerning Cider, but if there were a whole Volume writ of it, yet the several seasons of years, the several sorts of Fruit and other accidents that happen, no man can advise you of before, therefore let your reason teach you with what hath been said before; but if you would see several men's opinions of the ordering of Cider, see Esquire Evelins Book, joined to his Discourse of Forest-Trees.  
To make your water Cider; take the stampings when you press them from your first Cider, and put them into tubs, and when you have a tub full, put to these stampings half as much water as you had Cider: if your Fruit be good and very ripe you may put more, if the contrary less; let the tubs be covered, and stand thus with the water and stampings together four or five days and nights: if it be cold weather let them stand a week, than you may press the stampings and as soon as you have got as much as you think will fill a vessel, put it on the fire and scum it well, and when you find the scum begins not to rise very fast, then take it off from the fire and put it into Tubs or Coolers, to cool, and when it is cold than Tun it up, and when it hath done working then bung it up, and in a month's time it will be fit to drink; you may if you please boil a little Ginger in it, or a little Cloves, Juniper berries, or other things which you fancy to please the pallet, or against some distempers you fear; for small things taken in time may prevent dangers very great; Syrup of Rasburies' gives a very pleasing taste in Cider.  
Perry may be made and ordered after the same manner, only take care your Pears be not too ripe, for if they be, you will be troubled to get your Liquor fine: those Pears be best for Perry that have a hard flesh, and stony at the core; the juice easily separating from the flesh, the Fruit yielding a good plenty of juice, the Pears commonly of a harsh taste.  
But those Pears that have a soft flesh, as many of our best eating Pears have, are not good for Perry; as the Burry, Borgatmotes, Green-feilds, Green-chesels, and several others of like nature.  
We have a Pear at Cashiobury, and it is at other places near Watford; it is a little harsh juicy Pear, but makes excellent Liquor, as my Honourable Lord can testify, and several others; its only inconvenience is, it is but a small Fruit, but the quantity it yields is good; I take it to be a kind of wild Pear never grafted; but for its excellency aforesaid, the kind deserves to be preserved by the curious, I know no name it hath as yet.  
Captain Wingate near Welling hath an excellent Pear for Perry; I have tasted of the Liquor, and have seen the fruit, but whether it is a good bearer or no I know not: which should be a property in Perry Pear-trees.  
There is a Pear called by my ingenious Friend Mr. Pritchet Gardner to my Lord of Salisbury, Rufins' Pear, which makes excellent Perry, and is a good bearer, as I have oft been informed by him; by the taste of the fruit it is very good for Perry: Indeed most sorts of baking Pears make good Perry, or any that is Qualified as is beforesaid, and that bears well, and yields great store of Liquor.  
Mind your Vessels be sweet you put your Cider or Perry in; for a little tang in the Vessel will spoil all, a Sack Vessel is very good (though discommended by some) so is your White-wine or Claret-wine casks, or a Vessel where Cider hath been before, etc.  
FINIS.   

Here place the Figures.  
 
 
 
  

The Contents of each particular Chapter.  

Chap. 1. OF the several ways of Raising Trees: The best for Forrest-trees is by their Seeds, Keys, or Nuts, etc. pag. 1.  
Chap. 2. How to observe and know the nature of Seeds, so as the better to raise them p. 3.  
Chap. 3. The shape of Seeds and their Weight do Inform you how to set them p. 5.  
Chap. 4. Observations of all sorts of Keys and Seeds, p. 6.  
Chap. 5. Of the several ways to raise Forrest-trees, or others; and how to perform the same by Laying, p. 9  
Chap. 6. Of those sorts of Trees that will grow of Cuttings, and how to perform the same, p. 12.  
Chap. 7. Of such sorts of Trees as may be Raised by the Roots of another Tree; and how to Raise them, p. 13.  
Chap. 8. What Soil, or Dung is best for Trees, or their Seeds, p. 14.  
Chap. 9 Of Water for Trees, and Seeds and watering them, p. 20.  
Chap. 10. Of Oaks Raising and Improving p. 34.  
Chap. 11. Of Raising and Ordering the Elm, p. 50.  
Chap. 12. Of Raising, and Ordering the Ash, p. 53.  
Chap. 13. Of Raising, and Ordering the Beech, p. 57  
Chap. 14. Of Raising and Ordering the Walnut, p. 58.  
Chap. 15. Of Raising, and Ordering the Chestnut p. 63.  
Chap. 16. Of Raising, and Ordering the Sarvice-tree p. 64.  
Chap. 17. Of Raising and Ordering the Cherrytree p. 65.  
Chap. 18. Of Raising and Ordering the Linetree p. 67.  
Chap. 19 Of Raising and Ordering the Maple p. 72.  
Chap. 20. Of Raising and Ordering the Sycamore ibid.  
Chap. 21. Of Raising and Ordering the Hornbeam p. 73.  
Chap. 22. Of Raising the Quickbeam p. 75.  
Chap. 23. Of Raising the Birch ibid.  
Chap. 24. Of Raising the Hazel p. 77.  
Chap. 25. Of Raising the several sorts of Poplars ibid.  
Chap. 26. Of Raising the Alder p. 81.  
Chap. 27. Of Raising the Withy, Willows, Sallow, Oziers' p. 82.  
Chap. 28. Of the Pine, Fir, Pinaster, etc. p. 84.  
Chap. 29. Of Raising the Yew, Holly, Box, Juniper, Bayes, etc. p. 86.  
Chap. 30. General Rules for planting Forrest-trees in Avenues, Walks, or Orchards, as in a natural ground p. 88  
Chap. 31. Of planting Forrest-trees to make Woods, or to fill up Naked places in Woods, where they want p. 89.  
Chap. 32. Of Planting Young Hedges, and how to improve and keep old Hedges p. 95.  
Chap. 33. Of Planting several sorts of Forrest-trees, in order to making the best advantage of Ground, as Orchards, or the like p. 104.  
Chap. 34. Of Pruning Trees, some general Observations p. 112.  
Chap. 35. Of the Diseases of Trees p. 117.  
Chap. 36. Of Felling and Ordering Woods and Coppices p. 119.  
Chap. 37. How to take the height of a Tree several ways, the better to judge the worth of them, etc. p. 126.  
Chap. 38. Of making Walks, Avenues, or Lawns p. 135.  
Chap. 39 Of several superficial Figures, and how they are to be measured p. 148.  
Chap. 40. To Divide a Right Line given, according to any Proportion Required; and how to Divide Land or Woods, with some uses of the fourpole Chain p. 151.  
Chap. 41. Of Measuring Holes and Borders, that be under a pole broad, by which you may the better let or take them to do by the Pole-square, etc. with several Tables of Measures p. 160.  
Chap. 42. Of Measuring Timber and other solid Bodies, with several Tables useful thereunto p. 170.  
Chap. 43. Of the Oval, how to make it, and how to Measure it, with other Observations thereon p. 176.  
Chap. 44. Suppose you have a Plot to draw on one or many sheets of Paper, and you would draw it at as large as the Paper will bear; to know what Scale you shall Draw it by p. 179.  
Chap. 45. To find what Scale a Plate or Draft is drawn by, the content of the Ground being given p. 181.  
Chap. 46. The Description of the Line of Numbers, or Gunter's Line. p. 181.  
Chap. 47. Numeration on the Line, or to read a Sum on the Line of Numbers p. 184.  
Chap. 48. Addition on the Line of Numbers p. 186.  
Chap. 49. Substraction on the Line of Numbers p. 187.  
Chap. 50. Multiplication on the Line of Mumbers p. 188.  
Chap. 51. Division on the Line p. 193.  
Chap. 52. The Rule of Three on the Line p. 194.  
Chap. 53. The Golden Rule Reverse by the Line of Numbers p. 196.  
Chap. 54. Of Levelling any Ground, and to make Slopes or Batteries, etc. p. 198.  
Chap. 55. Rules for making of Cider p. 200.    

A Catalogue of Books of Husbandry, Sold by Peter Parker at the Leg and Star in Cornhill.  
THe English Gardener, or a sure guide to young Planters and Gardeners, in three Parts. 1. Showing the way and order of Planting and Raising all sorts of stocks, Fruit-trees and shrubs, with the divers ways and manners of Engrafting and Inoculating in their several seasons. 2. How to order the Kitchen Garden, for all sorts of Herbs, Roots and Salads. 3. The ordering the Garden of pleasure, how to Raise all sorts of flowers, and their seasons; with directions touching Arbours and Hedges in Gardens; likewise several other things fit to be known to all that delight in Orchards and Gardens. By Leonard Meager above thirty years' Practitioner in the Art of Gardening.  
The Countrey-mans Recreation, or the Art of Planting, Graffing, and Gardening in three Books, 1. Declaring divers ways of Planting and Graffing. 2. Treateth of the Hop-garden, with Instructions for making, and the maintenance thereof. 3. The expert Gardener, containing divers necessary and rare secrets belonging to that Art, with Directions to know the time and season to Sow and Plant all manner of Seeds; also how to destroy Snails, Canker-worms, Moles, and all other Vermin which usually breed in Gardens: Whereunto also is added the Art of Angling.  
The manner of ordering Fruit-trees, by the Sieure Le Gendre Curate of Henonville; where in treated of Nurseries, Wall fruits, hedges of Fruit trees, Dwarf-trees, high standers, etc. Written in French, and translated faithfully into English at the request of several persons of Honour. A Piece so highly approved of in France, that it hath been divers times Printed there.  
The Government of Cattle, divided into three Books, 1. Treating of Oxen, Kine, and Calves, and how to use Bulls and other Cattle to the Yoke or fell. 2. Discoursing of the Government of Horses, with approved medicines against most Diseases 3. Of the ordering Sheep and Goats, Hogs and Dogs, with true remedies to help the infirmities that befall any of them; Also instructions for taking Moles, and husbanding of Grounds; composed by Leonard Mascal.