THE COURT & kitchen OF ELIZABETH, Commonly called Joan cromwell, THE Wife of the late Usurper, Truly Described and Represented, And now Made public for general Satisfaction. London, Printed by Tho. Milbourn, for Randal tailor in St. Martins Le Grand, 1664. TO THE READER. THAT there may no prejudice lie against this Publication, as an insultory, unmanlike Invective and Triumph over the supposed miserable, and forlorn estate of this Family, and this Person in particular; it will be requisite to obviate & prepare against that seeming human( but indeed disloyal, or at least idle) sentiment and reverence to the frail and fluctuating condition of mankind, which as a general Argument is ready at hand to oppose the design of the ensuing Treatise. Not to refer the Reader to the practise of all Times, which have not sailed to wreak the fury of the Pen upon Tyrants and Usurpers( if surviving to punishment, otherwise their Relations and Posterity) whose execrable Tragedies have wearied the World, and blunted the Instruments of death & slaughter: nor to instance the particular examples thereof, as sufficient Authority for this Imitation; the peculiar Justice due to the monstrous enormities and unparalle'ld insolence of these upstarts,( besides the disproportion and imcompetence of any revenge to their provoking impudent personation of Princes) will interessedly vindicate and defend the Author from the breach of charity, much more from the rigid imputation and charge, as of a person devested and voided of nature, compassion and civility. For while they yet wanton in the abundance of their spoil & rapine, afflicted with nothing else but the torments of ambitious designs, taking this cloud upon them, but as an eclipse of their former Greatness, and as but a Turn of sporting Fortune, whose wheel may with an imaginary volutation roll their pretty Highnesses upwards again; how can the desperate depressed estate of many thousand loyal Subjects, who are irrecoverably lost and past all means, but a miracle, to their just, or any competent Restistitution, or to buoy up themselves or Families from vulgar or fanatic contempt: How is it possible for them to comport with the Serenity( instead of disaster) of this Family, by whose single accursed plots and designs, all their present and many more grievous past miseries are derived upon them and their Posterity. And that this may not seem the froth and spleen of a satire, what meaneth that bleating in their present stately Mansions? The same ceremonious and respectful observances, as if they were still the Hogen Mogens. None of the Family must presume to speak less than my Lord and my Lady, to the Squire Henry and his Spouse, and the same style is used when ever any mention is made of them in the Household; to which pin the neighbours and necessary Retainers addresses are tunably raised. What is this but to strengthen their weak, yet vain-glorious fancy, and to preserve some relics of their former veneration, lest rude and inofficious time should pled a disuser in bar to their conceited( but airy) reversion? And no question but the old Gentlewoman, who took so much upon her, and was so well pleased with her last Grandeur, as displeased and afflicted with the fall of it, betwixt Fleetwood, Richard and Desborough, is also served in the same manner, and with the same Grandezza's, so that such is the inveterate itch and tetter of Honour in Her, that nothing but the lees of gull, and the most biting sharpest Ink will ere be able to cure or stop this Protectorian Evil. And herein we do but retaliate( if they be not unworthy of such a term, as that any attribute of justice should be profaned by their demerit which exacts rather popular Fury) and repay them in some sort, those many Libels, blasphemous Pamphlets and Pasquils, broached and set on foot, chiefly by the late Usurper, against the blessed Memory and Honour of our two late sovereigns: more especially those vile and impious Pieces, called, The Court and Character of King James, and The None such Charles,( a great number of which were bought up in the juncture of the late Restitution,( as particularly informed) which in the worst of times their bold and impudent falsehood made most abominable) were none of the least incentives to a work of this nature, in requital of that traitorous and most petulant Imposture. Whereas the guilt of this Grand-Dame hath this sort of felicity, that it cannot be made worse or more odious by any additions of devised untruths; and he must be a very immodest and immoderate Fabulist that can represent Her to greater disadvantage in this way, then Her Actions have infamed her to the World. Her Highness must be pleased to dispense with this frank and libertine manner of treating Her, for 'tis all we are like to have for many millions; besides an old Saw or Proverb to the bargain, — Olim haec meminisse juvabit; a little transitory mirth, for twenty years duration of sorrow; and if she thinks she comes not very well off so, she is as unreasonable in her reduction and allowed Recess,( to be envied for its plenty and amplitude, far exceeding her former privacy, so that she is even yet a Darling of Fortune) as in her usurped Estate and Greatness. It is well for her, if his Butchery ( then, which the Sun never saw a more flagitious execrable fact, and so comprehensive, that it reached Caligulas wish) can be slighted into her Cookery; and that there were no other Monument of it then in Paste, — Ut tantum schombros metuentia Crimina, vel Thus: That the records of his Crimes were onely damned to an Oven. Little satisfaction serves the English Nation( the Relations of those loyal persons martyred by Him excepted) and She ought therefore to be highly thankful, that the Scene of his Tyranny was laid here, for had it light upon the Southern parts of the World, their nimble and vindictive rage, upon the Turn, would have limbed and minced her Family to atoms, and have been their own Cooks and Carvers. Lambert Simnel very contentedly turned a broach in the Kings kitchen, after the Gaudies of his Kingly Imposture, in the beginning of the Reign of Henry the VII. and therefore for variety sake let this once mighty Lady, do Drudgery to the public. Vale. The Introduction. AMong all the monstrous Effects of Cromwell's Tyranny, and the fruition of his Usurped greatness; in the affluence of all imaginary delights to gratify his sense, and candy over the troubles of his mind( to the rendering them less severe and dulling their poignant acuteness) it was by all men much wondered at, that he was so little guilty of any luxurious and Epicurean Excesses either in his meat or drink, except sometimes in his Cups, which he purposely and liberally took off to voided the Gravel in his Kidneys, with which he was continually molested, and for which, large draughts were his ordinary Cure. In this He differed from the rest of his sanguinous Tribe and sort of men, who making use of human blood for their drink, do saginate and fatten themselves, with the superfluous variety of meats, to whose natural satisfaction such artificial devices are added( even retorturing the Creature) that the genunine Gusto is quiter changed by this adulteration, and lost in the mixed multiplicity of other Relishes and palatable Ingredients. Herein like themselves, when not content with their natural private condition of life, and the pure results & simplo innocent delights thereof, they do corrode their minds with the sharp sauces of Ambition, and so alter and invert their nature, that they degenerate to other things, and become such a quell. que-chose of villainy and debauchery, that we can hardly sever and distinguish a Crime which is not intervitiated with many other. And what prodigious infamy upon this gulose and intemperate account, and by this very apt similitude doth this day stick upon many if not most of the Roman Emperors! as I could instance in Tiberius, Caligula, Nero, Otho, Domitian, Commodus, Caracalla, Heliogabolus, men not to be mentioned without horror at their wickedness; of such savage and feral manners, as if their food had been the flesh of Panthers, tigers and Bears, and had assimilated its nutriment in their Bestial qualities: but as was said before, cronwell as in some other cases, was in this wholly discriminated from them. Yet do I not think this abstemiousnesse and temperance was due only to his disposition either of body or mind, for his appetite in all other things was very irregular & inordinate, but either to the multitude of those mordaces & edaces Curae, biting and eating cares and ambitious thoughts; which made him either the encompass or Tantalus his Feast, and were his continual surfeits of an evil conscience; Districtus Ensis cvi supper impia Cervice pendet, non Siculae dapes Dulcem elaborarint saporem. Horat. odd though I may indulge his military labours and discipline, and Example that severer abstinence: or else which is principally intended here as the subject matter of this discourse, it may be cheaplyer referred to the sordid frugality and thrifty baseness of his Wife, Elizabeth Bowcher, the Daughter of Sir James Bowcher, commonly called Protectresse Joan and vulgarly known of later years by no other Christian name, even in the greatest height of her Husbands power, and that chiefly out of Derision and contemptuous indignation, that such a person durst presume to take upon her self such a sovereign Estate, when she was an hundred times fitter for a Barn then a Palace; so sporting, mocking Fate, to make good that of the satirist Foelix à Tergo quem nulla Ciconia pinxit, followed her great luck with that Sarcastick and dicterious nickname, that she with her Copemate might perceive, their Fortune was not so entire and of so fair an aspect and firm Structure, but that the Flaws and Blemishes and Impotence thereof, were most obvious and ridiculous; their Fine Feathers had Swans feet, and their beautiful Mermaid, the fiction of Dominion, had the ugly tail and fins of a Fish, the Train of her greatness and prosperity was the most vile and scornful reproaches. And this shall suffice to be spoken of her person by way of Preface, the next Elenchus or Discourse is of her Mesnagery housewifery or House keeping. THE COURT and kitchen OF Mrs. ELIZABETH alias joan cronwell. TO Confine and limit this Treatise to its purpose and designment prefixed in the Title, we must( though with some petty injury to the Reader) pass over her economy at her private home, before Olivers bold achievement and attaimment of the Supreme power,( because part of it is already public) when she had brought as( we say) a Noble to Nine-pence, by her pious negligence and ill management of the domestic Affairs, and was as giddy to see her bare Walls as Oliver was mad with enthusiasms and Devinations of Regal Furniture and all Princely pomp and greatness. Those Memorials may be reduced to this present use in this short Corollary. That the former Extremities of her Necessitous and indigent Condition, upon the bettering thereof( by the general ruin) raised in her such a quick sense of the misery of want, that she became most industriously provident, and resolvedly sparing and cautious for the future, and to prefer the certainty of her own care and diligence to the extempore, fond and easy delusions of Deus providebit, with which she had been fooled before into an almost voluntary and devoted poverty. This her Aspect and Consideration of the future, extended itself( with more prudence and sagacity then her Husband would descend to) in some humble thoughts of her present rise leveled to her past depression: She took a prophetical prospect of the Times, and having seen two, three or four variations in the calmness and tranquillity of her Husbands Fortunes, did wisely presage to her self that after those Hurly burlies of war and the Tempest of Rebellion, wherein he had whirled, and with so much impatient precipitancy engaged himself, there would another turn happen, against which she concluded to be more discreetly Armed. The first Eddy of that boisterous and unruly Current of his Prosperity, which at last over-ran all Banks and Boundaries flowed into the receptacle of her Committee-ship in the associated Counties, particularly Cambridge and Huntingdon, where to recover and piece up her ruins, she with the same Spirit of zeal and piety of her Husbands, consecrated her House to be the Temple of Rapine, one of the prime Goddesses next the Cause; whither for sacrifices all manner of cattle clean and unclean, were brought from all the adjacent parts; as other costly utensils of the best movables to adorn and enrich this sacred place; from whence to hope for any re-delivery was mental sacrilege, and to endeavour it was punished with irreparable ruin; and I am sure( like the guilt of that crime) there are some who now feel it to the third generation, and may without miracle to perpetuity. For not only was her Corban to be satisfied with the product of such oblations, but lands were to be set apart and sequestered, the revenue of which past first through her fingers, and were made Impropriations of her own. Having thus recruited her Estate, and adjusted her present Seizures to her past losses, and exalted above the Dignity of Mrs. Sheriff, or countess of those Shires, no person her equal in greatness; upon the success of her Husband after Marston Moore she abandoned the dull Country, partly not enduring the ordinary demeanour of her acquaintance towards her, nor sufferable nor endurable by her betters, for her imperious and unsociable Carriage towards all persons of quality; and partly to partake in the supreme Fruition of the City's more elaborate & exquisite pleasures, & to housewife early admiration: for the Ladies of the Cause began to appear at Thanksgiving dinners, and to reckon as many dishes to a mess, as their Husbands numbered achievements. At her Arrival in Town she was little less then saluted by the whole Juncto, though not in a body, yet severally by them all, and afterwards by the Pastours, Elders, and Brethren of the Sects, who came not a House warming with the breath of their Mouths, in zealous gratulations, but brought all Silver Implements for her accommodation of housh old stuff, and offered them according to the late pattern of Reformation in Guildhast. Nor did this humour cease here, the middle sort of the Religiously fanatic, sent her in Westphalia Hams, Neats Tongues, Puncheons, and Teirces of French Wine, Runlets and Bottles of Sack; all manner of Preserves and Comfits, to save her the trouble of the Town; the most of which gifts, they being multiplied upon her, she retailed by private hands, at as good a rate as the Market would afford. But much more of these was given afterwards when Oliver was returned from the ending the war, and was looked upon as the great Motion of the Parliaments proceedings: not to reckon those immoderate Bribes that obtruded themselves upon her, more welcome by far then those saintlike benevolences and civil Offices of Love, under which their corrupting practices were veiled to no purpose; for she very well understoood the very first Addresses though never so innocently remore from the main design, and would rate them( as they do Post Miles, for she kept her constant distant Stages in all her public brokage and Transactions) duly and exactly. And indeed her House was in this respect a Political or State Exchange by which the Affairs of the Kingdom were governed, and the prizes of all things set, whether Offices, preferments, indemnity; as all other manner of Collusion and deceits were practised, and money stirring no where else: And in the other respect of Provisions, it might have passed for the Temple of Bell and the Dragon,( to pursue the former Sanctity of her Rural Mansion) where all those offerings of Diet were consumed, or as good, altered and assimilated to her nature( the use of the nutritive faculty) by serving her covetousness in their reduction to money. Now she needed no such austere diligence in the preservation of an estate, for it was more then she and her Ministers could do to receive it. It was impossible to keep any Decorum or order, in that house where masterless money like a haunting Spirit, possessed and disquieted every room. It was a kind of Midas his Palace, where there was nothing but Gold to eat, only instead of being confined to that indigestible food, she and her Servants were most frequently invited out of doors to most sumptuous and magnificent treatments, whence because of that more sacred employment at home,( like Sabbatarians that provide themselves baked and could meats for the superstitious observation of the day) they and their progging Lady brought home such relics, as they might mumble down in the dispatch of their business, and save the trouble or magic of their long Graces, which had brought a curse instead of a Blessing, upon their Masters and Mistresses first endeavours, though she her self( so hard it is to forego and shake off an habitual customary hypocrisy and fallacy) would look as religiously upon a Match pane, Preserve, or Comfit, as a despairing Lover upon his Mistresses Lips. But the War expired, and those Thanksgiving and triumphal Festivals over and ended, this pious family began to enter upon the years of Famine after those of Plenty. Her Husband was now engaged in deep designs and practices upon the King and kingdom, and in order to ruin them both, upon the Army; Every one of those mischievous and Matchiavilian consultations and projects, were ushered continually by a Fast, which being appointed for, and observed by the Host, were always intimated to the friends and Relations of the Officers, and kept by them with no less strictness in their private housholds; which by the frequent shifts, and various turns of policy, which Cromwell's Fate, and the uncertainty of the Times guided him to, came so often and thick upon the neck of one another, that her domestics had almost forgot dinner time; upstart Piety, like the modern Frugality, bating a Meal, and as that had limited the diet to Noon, this changed it and inverted it to night. So that, as in other authoritative continued Fasts, there is a political and human Reason, viz. the sparing the Creature, even to the same end, this good housewife directed her domestic abstinence; and when on such occasions she had cause to suspect a general discontent of her people and household; she would up with this Scripture expression, and lay it in their Teeth for better fare; The kingdom of God is not Meat and Drink, but righteousness and Peace, and some such Scriptural dehortations from gluttony and the like luxurious Intemperance, and other zealous Sentences of Moderation in Diet; as that the pleasure of a full diet consists more in desire then in Satiety; that to have the Stomach twice repleated in the day, is to empty the Brain, and to render the mind unserviceable to the actions of life; No abyss, no Whirlpool is so pernicious as Gluttony, which the more a man eats, makes him more a hungry; and the better he dines to sup the worse, with such other Morals, taken out of Gusman and Lazarillo de Tormes, and only altered a little, by being made serious in practise. Yet I cannot pass this necessary Lesson of Temperance, however it proceeds from this Sophistical corrupt Teacher thereof, without some reflection on some more ancient and authentic Instructions, but because it is a little beside my design, I will conclude them in some fit Sentences, as of the satirist Persius. Poscis opem nervis Corpusque fidele Senectae, Esto age said grandes patinae tucetaque crassa Annuere his superos vetuere Jovemque morantur. Englished thus, By De Barten holiday. Thou wishest for firm nerves, and for a sure Sound body, that would healthfully endure Until Old Age; why be it, that thy wish Is granted by the Gods; yet thy large Dish And full fat sasage make the Gods Delay To bless thee, and do Force good Jove to stay. And that other of Epictetus, worthy to be inscribed in all our Parlours and Banquetting-Houses, 〈◇〉. In another place Inter Epulandum duos excipere debemus Convivas, Corpus & Animam; Tum quod in Corpus collatum sit repent effluxurum, quod autem in animam perpetuo servandum( i.e.) in Feasting and banqueting we must except two Guests the body and the mind, because that which is bestowed on the body will suddenly pass away, and that which comes into the mind will be there laid up for ever; adding that commendation of Plato to a friend a Philosopher; Vestrae quidem caenae non solum in praesentia said etiam postero die sunt jucundae, intimating that there is no such lasting pleasure as in a sober diet, which, when Excesses bring Surfeits, renews the Feast the next day, and gives a continual relish to the Appetite. But I must beg pardon for this( otherwise seasonable) digression, and reduce the Discourse in purfuit of her Ladyships Errantry from one abode to another, in the Suburbs of London, more or less like a Sojourner,( however she inhabited whole Houses) and a great person incognito, then as a Woman of that State and degree, to which her Husbands Condition and Command, and great probabilities of succeeding Titles, and forespeak her; If any thing could be observeble by her for state and charge, it was the keeping of a Coach, the driver of which served her for Caterer, as much occasion as she had for him, for Butler, for Servingman, for Gentleman Usher, when she was to appear in any publtque place. And this Coach was bought at the second hand, out of a great number, which then lay by the Walls, while their honourable owners went on foot, and ambled in the dirt to Goldsmiths and Haberdashers-halls if so fairly come by. She might, and she did( 'twas thought) save that very inconsiderable Charge, but the sense she had how obvious and odious her Carriage in a sequestered caroche would be to every body, made her jealous of such scorn and derision; as for Horses she had them out of the Army, and their Stabeling and Livery in her husbands allotment out of the Mews, at the charge of the State; so that it was the most thrifty and unexpensive pleasure and divertisement;( besides the Finery and Honour of it) that could be imagined; for it saved many a Meal at home, when upon pretence of business, Her Ladyship went abroad, and carrying some dainty provant for her own and her Daughters own repast, she spent whole days in short visits, and long Walks in the air; so that she seemed to affect the Scythian fashion, who dwell in Carts and Wagons, and have no other habitations. Her public Retinue was also very slender, and as slenderly accoutred, no more commonly, then one of her Husbands Horse boys running by her, sometimes one, and sometimes another; with or without Livery, all was one; on purpose( it may be well supposed, beside the saving the Cost) to prevent her being descried and discovered, so much suspicion & hatred had her husband drawn upon himself, even from the vulgar which she feared, might by some such Badge of notice, light upon her self in the streets as she passed. She was the same recluse likewise in her Habit, rarher harnessing her self in the defence of her clothes, then allowing her self the loose and open bravery thereof, as not having been used to such light armor; and her Hood, till her face was seen in her Highnesses glass, was clapped on like a head-piece, without the Art of ensconcing and entrenching it double and single in redoubts and hornworks. In fine, she was Cap a pe like a Baggage Lady, and was out of her Element, in her vicinity to the Court and City. But her Daughters were otherwise vested and robed, and a constant expense allowed in Tire-women, Perfumers, and the like Arts of Gallantry, with each their Maid and Servant to attend them: and by their Array and Deportment, their quality might have been guessed at; they were all( those that were unmarried) very young; but Mrs. Elizabeth, who about this time was married to one Mr. Cleypole's Son of Northamptonshire( the old man having had a hand in the same disloyal Service with Oliver, in that County) but with a very private Wedding, no way suitable to that Port and Grandeur, which Oliver kept in the Army, where he was looked upon with the same reverence and respect as the General himself; all that was Hymen like in the celebration of it, was some-freaks and pranks without the Aid and Company of a fiddler( which in those days was thought by their precise Parents to be altogether unlawful and savouring of Carnality, as the ring and form of Marriage, were thought superstitious and Antichristian) in Nol's military rude way of spoiling of the Custard, and like Jack Pudding, throwing it upon one another, which was ended in the more manly Game of buffeting with Cushions, and flinging them up and down the room. Neither appeared there the splendour and Ornament of jewels, and Pearls, and the like lustre of Gems, whose invidious refractions like povsonous Effluxes, might invenome the World with Spleen and Malice, at their plundered and stolen radiancy; for by the manifold Surrenders and Stormings of Houses and Castles, cronwell had amassed good store of rarities, besides medals, and gold and silver Vessels,( the spoils of our Captivity) which it was not as yet safe to produce in such an unsettlement of his Conquest, till all propriety should be huddled up in the general ruin, out of whose mixed and confused rubbish, in his new polished Covernment, they might exert their brightness underivable and clear from all former title and claim, as the mass of things shall be meland calcined together, at the last universal Dissolution. And I have heard it reported for a Truth, that most of the precious movables, and other things of value, at the storming of Basing-house by cronwell, fell into his hands either immediately or directly, the Soldiers either by Command, or for some small price returning several precious pieces of the spoil, whose worth they understood not, to his Agents, who gave an exact Account thereof to the Lady Receiver at home, who was about that time seen to be very pleasant and prajeant at the enjoyment of those pretty things( as she expressed her self) being the best for substance and ornament, that belonged to the noble marquis of Winchester and his Family, which this she-Usurper now listed and Catalogued for her own. And if the whole Inventory of her rapinous hoard were now producible, what a Voracious Monster would she appear to be? not a Corner in the kingdom which is not sensible of her Ravage, and which had not a share in the Lombard of her uncountable and numberless Chattels. How many rare pieces of antic Gold and Silver, are again damned to the earth from whence they were brought? and are by her mischievons covetousness irrecoverably lost, which have been the glories and monumental pride of many Families? and the only remains and evidences of their noble Hospitality, now butted by this Wretch in hugger mugger. Those advantages, together with the vails of the Army, which she had upon every Commission, and other incident occasions, for her Husbands Interests and Authority, together, with his Extraordinary pay, and the Appurtenances to it, and Lands, and Hereditaments bestowed on Him, besides rewards and gratuities in ready money, amounted to an incredible Sum, which almost glutted her eyes to satiety, but so, that they were yet lesser then her belly, which could stow as much more with convenience enough, and conserve and secure it by a very parsimonious use, and narrow strict Disbursement; for having now quitted all Fears of returning to a private condition by the insolence of her Husbands Fortunes, which driven at the sovereignty, the abominable design being communicated to her; this great bank was still kept supplied by her, for the support and maintenance of that Dignity and Supremacy to which Oliver aspired, and to facilitate his way to it; having rightly perceived, that nothing but money had carried on the War, and brought things to that pass, whatever was pretended of Zeal, and to the Cause, and therefore there was no difference in her manner of Housekeeping, only cronwell being now in Town for the most part, conspiring that execrable Parricide against the King, she dispensed with her niggerly Regulation, and having taken a House near Charing-Crosse, kept it in a manner open for all Comers, which were none but the Sectary party and Officers, who resorted thither as to their head-quarters, with all their wild projections, and ere entertained with Small Beer and Bread and Butter, which to the animation of the approaching villainy, was as bad as Aqua fortis and Horse Flesh: for as was said of Caesar, Nemo tam sobrius ad Rempublicam evertendam accessit, no man came more sober to the destruction of the Commonwealth; so I may aptly and more justly say, That no men of more abstemiousnesse ever effected so vile and flagitious an enterprise upon so just a Government. That being in perpetration, Mrs. cronwell ran out of Purse some score of pounds,( for it is to be remembered that she Stewarded it all along, Oliver's head being busy with greater and worse matters) very much to her regret and vexation; but that villainy over; and some two or three private Treatments given his most sure and addicted Complices, in Exaltation of their monstrous success; the doors of the house were again barred, and all persons hindered, and of dissicult admittance, upon what score or business soever; and now she was returned to her former privacy, and ordinary Diet as be sore. During the rest of the time while cronwell stayed in England, she kept the same tenor, having received( besides a Confirmation of the marquis of Worcester's Estate, to the value of five thousand pounds a year) upon the account of the defeat given Levellers by her Husbands Treachery at a Thanksgiving dinner( whereto he was invited by the City) a piece of Gold Plate of very good value, which discharged the former expense. I must omit many other passages during his absence in Ireland and in Scotland, and after this liminary, but prolix Account, sum up all in her menage of her domestic Affairs at Whitehall, for which she had so long prepared and furnished her self with Rules of Government and Occonomy, fitted for her Usurpation and the Times. For her Husband brought not so great and haughty, as she base and low spirited thoughts and resolutions to the grandeur of that place, the Habitation and Residence of the greatest and most famous Monarchs of the World, and famed throughout it for truly Royal and Princely Pomp, and immense Munificence and Entertainment. She had flesh enough indeed to become any room in that spacious Mansion, but so little of a brave Spirit, that the least Hole of it would have made her a banqueting House; but like a Spirit she came only to haunt, not to enjoy any part of it; The Penates and Genii of the place abhominating this profane and sacrilegious Intrusion, neither giving him one hours quiet or rest in it, from his troubled, mistrustful, and ill boding thoughts, nor her any Content and Satisfaction, but what she found in repining & vexing her self at the cost and Charge, the maintenance of that beggarly Court did every day put her to. It was in the year 1653, that cronwell first possessed and seated himself there, as in his own right, and in Chief, and brought his Worshipful Family thither, to their several appartiments, she having appointed one Mr. Maidstone to be Steward of his House, and one Mr. Starkey to be his Master Cook( who afterwards was betrayed and taken drunk in his Cellar, designing the like upon my Lord Maiors Sword-bearer, while my Lord was in Conference with the Protector, so that he could not conceal it from the household, who( out of spite to Him, as being a spy over their Actions and behaviours) first acquainted their Lady, and she Oliver with the fault, aggravated by the Scandal and wasteful excess; insomuch, that Starkey was commanded to come before him, where instead of a compliment and Excuse, He delivered himself by Vomit, in the very Face of his Master, and was thereupon dismissed the House. It will not be too distant a Review to observe and remark her Introduction to, and seizing of this Royal Mansion,( which we have only mentioned) before any other procedure in the economy thereof. The first Preparatory as to public notice, was an Order from the new Council of State, after the dissolution of the Parliament, commanding all persons to depart out of White-hall, which was then the Den of a hundred several Families, and persons of power, and office in the Anarchy; which being difficultly and grumblingly executed, she her self employed a Surveyor to make her some convenient accommodations, and little Labyrinths, and trap Stairs, by which she might at all times unseen, pass to and fro, and come unawares upon her Servants, and keep them vigilant in their places, and honest in the discharge thereof. Several repairs were likewise made in her own appartiments, and many small partitions up and down, aswell above Stairs, as in the Cellars and kitchens, so that it looked like the Picture of Bartholomew Faire; Her Highnesseship, not being yet accustomend to that roomy and August Dwelling, and perhaps afraid of the vastness and silentnesse thereof, which presented to her thoughts the Desolation her Husband had caused, and the dreadful apparitions of those Princes, whose incensed Ghosts wandered up and down, and did attend some avenging opportunity; and this was the more believable, because she( not to name her Husbands mis-giving Suspicions and Frights) could never endure any Whispering, or to be alone by her self in any of the Chambers. And it is further here fit to be instanced, that upon her first coming, when her Harbingers had appointed her Lodgings, the same with the Queens, which yet retained their Royal Names and Distinctions, she would by no means hear of them but changed them into other Appellations, that there might remain no manner of disgust and discontent to her ambitious and usurping Creatnesse: and therefore they were adapted now into the like significations, by the name of the Protectors and Protectresses Lodgings, as more proper and fitter terms to their propriety, and indisputed possession. Much ado she had at first to raise her mind and deportment to this sovereign Grandeur; and very difficult it was for her to lay aside those impertinent Meannesses of her private fortune; like the Bride-cat by Venus's favour metamorphosed into a comely Virgin, that could nor forbear catching at Mice, she could not comport with her present Condition, nor forget the common converse and Affairs of Life; but like some kitchen Maid preferred by the Lust of some rich and noble Dotard, was ashamed of her sudden and gaudy bravery, and for a while skulkt up and down the House, till the fawning observances and reuerences of her Slaves had raised her to a Confidence, not long after sublimed into an impudence. And this was helped on by Madam Pride, and my Ladies Hewson, and Ferkstead, Goff, whaley, &c. who all came to compliment her Highnesse upon the Felicity of Cromwell's Assumption to the Government, and to congratulate her Fortune, and so accompany her to her Palace of Whitehall, where like the Devil cast out, she entred by Fasting and Prayer, after the usual manner, and like devout Jezabel, took possession of Naboth's Vineyard. And thus we have waited on her to this Basilicon, now swept and cleansed for her fiendly entertainment; and the Chymneys smoked and heated again, which had suffered so long a damp; and after so long a Vacation; Especially her Highnesse took care, and gave strict charge to have all the rooms aired, for fear of those ill scents the Rump had left behind them and was willing to be at the charge of Perfumes to expel the noysomenesse thereof, the account of which hath been seen by divers, allowed by her own hand; but foul odour was so equally natural to all the Grandees, that Oliver when he died left it in a worse condition then when he found it, as is public in several Treatises. cronwell was now his own Steware and Carver, not limited to any expenses of Housekeeping, no more then to the Charges of the Government; but was absolute both at Dinner and at Council Board, neither of which were yet well settled; And therefore, besides the nearness of his Wife, it was necessary he should appear extraordinary frugal of the peoples Purse,( who wished every bit he eat might choke him, for all his temperance) in his private and public Disbursements. Only that he might not appear so much a Military governor, but have something of the Prince in him, about Noon time, a man might hear a huge clattering of Dishes, and noise of Servitors, in rank and File marching to his Table,( though neither sumptuously nor extraordinarily furnished) in some imitation of Paulus Aemilius in his answer to the Grecians, after his Triumph and Conquest or Perseus, the last Macedon King; Ejusdem esse Animi & Aciem & Convivium instrueere, illam quidem ut formidolosus Hostibus hoc ut Amicis gratus appareat; in English thus, 'Tis of the same spirit to order a Battle, as to furnish a Feast, by the one a man appears terrible to his Enemies, and by the other pleasing to his Friends. But at his private Table, very rarely or never, were our French quelque-choses, suffered by him or any such modern Gusto's, whether with the Fright he was prejudiced of poison, by such devices,( at an vitation made him and his General the Lord Fairfax, with the other of the supreme Commanders of the Army, by a small Officer therein, who was formerly a Cook) at a Ladies in Hammersmith, where with one Leg of Mutton dressed all sorts of ways he entertained them all, but upon their discovery of the Fellowes audaciousness in bidding them, which prompted them to believe it was a design against their lives, and put most of them to the Vomit, was like to have been dressed himself by the Hangman) or by some stronger or more Masculine Appetite, which partaked with his other robust faculties, is uncertain; sure it is, that when in Treatments given his Familiars, such things were set upon the Table, 'twas more for show and sport then for Belly Timber, and about which the good housewife never troubled her head. She, to return to her Government, very providentially kept two or three Cowes in St. James's Park, and erected a new Office of a Dairy in Whitehall, with Dairy Maids to intend that business solely,( as most of the Employment for Servants was managed by Females, for there were no Sergeants but such as waited with Halbeirds on the Guard) and fel to the old Trade of cherming Butter, and making Buttermilk, nor were Oxford Kates find things, half so famous among the Cavalier Ladies, as my Lady Protectors Butter among the mushroom zealous Ladies of the Court, most whereof, being Apple, or Oyster-women, or Stocking-Heelers, and the like, did much wonder at, and magnify the invention and rarity. Next to this Covy of Milk Maids she had another of Spinsters, and Sowers, to the number of six, who sate the most part of the day, after she was ready, in her privy Chamber sowing and stitching; they were all of them Ministers Daughters, such as were inveterate Nonconformists to the Church, for which cause, and the pretence of piety( the main ingredient to things of the least Moment) they were added to the Family; Nor did the Turkish Ministers take more care to furnish the Seraglio, and gratify their Master with choice Virginities, then some of these pious Pimps did lay out for indigent godly Maidens to pleasure this prostitute Charity of hers, that the world might take notice of her exemplary Humility and Compassion. But indeed all persons of breeding and quality, abhorred the indignity of her Service, and so rather then be served with common Drudges, she erected this new order, and continued it to the term of her Usurpation. Herein following the Steps of her Husband, who made a new daring Militia of zealous persons, since he could not be served with generous Spirits. She was once resolved by the Assistance and Advice of her Mother, to have made a small brewing place, with Vessels, and other accommodation for her own, and Oliver's Drink, as not liking the City Brewing, nor trusting to the Artifices of the Town; but about the same time, a Drink was then grown famous in London, being a very small Ale of 7 s. 6 d. a Barrel, well boiled, and well tasted and conditioned, called, and known by the name of Morning due( from the Brewers name as I haue heard) which was thence brought into request at Court, and was the Diet Drink of this temperate Couple, and the cool refreshing entertainment of those bounce Ladies that came weltring and wallovving in their Coaches instead of Drayes to visit Her. And for the kitchen and Pantry a great Reformation was intended, but the multitude of Comers and Goers upon her first settling there, and number of Mouths which came gaping for preferment, being to be stopped with Victuals, put her besides her proposed Regulation, yet was there not a joint of Meat for which the Cook was not to give an account, which she overlooked, as it came from them to the Steward, whose accounts likewise were punctually cast up by her, and firmed by her hand, as well as afterwards by the Protectors. Nay, so severe and strict she was in this thrifty way of House-keeping, that she descended to the smallest and meanest matters, the very Chaffer, and price of the Market, and that the Reader may not think he is imposed on and deceived by a general imputation of her niggardlynesse: I will give him two notable and apposite instances. The first, was the very next Summer after his coming to the Protectorate in 1654. in June, at the very first season of Green Pease, where a poor Country Woman living somewhere about London, having a very early but small quantity in her Garden, was advised to gather them, and carry them to the Lady Protectresse, her Counsellors conceiving she would be very liberal in her reward, they being the first of that year; accordingly the poor Woman came to the Strand; and having her Pease amounting to a perk and a half, in a Basket, a Cook by the Savoy as she passed, either seeing or guessing at them, demanded the Price, and upon her silence offered her an Angel for them, but the Woman expecting some greater matter, went on in her way to Whitehall, where after much ado, she was directed to her Chamber, and one of her Maids came out, and understanding it was a Present and Rarity, carried it in to the Protectresse, who out of her Princely Munificence sent her a Crown, which the Maid told into her hand; The Woman seeing this baseness, and the frustration of her Hopes, and remembering withal what the Cook had proffered her; threw back the money into the Maids hands, and desired her to fetch her back her Pease, for that she was offered five shillings more for them before she brought them thither, and could go fetch it presently; and so half slightingly and half ashamedly, this great Lady returned her present putting it off with a censure upon the unsatisfactory daintiness of luxurious and prodigal epicurism: The very same Pease were afterwards sold by the Woman to the said Cook, who is yet alive to justify the truth of this Relation. The other is of a later date, upon Oliver's rapture with the spaniard, the Commodities of that Country grew very scarce, and the prizes of them raised by such as could procure them underhand: Among the rest of those goods, the fruits of the growth of that place were very rare and dear, especially Oranges and lemons. One day, as the Protector was private at dinner; He called for an Orange to a loin of Veal, to which he used no other Sauce, and urging the same command, was answered by his Wife, that Oranges were Oranges now, that Crab Oranges would cost a Groat, and for her part, she never intended to give it; and it was presently whispered, that sure her Highness was never the adviser of the Spanish War, and that his Highness should have done well to have consulted his Digestion, before his hasty and inordinate appetite of Dominion and Riches in the West Indies. I might confirm this by other retrenchments of expense, whensoever she could confine his Table to her own privacy; particularly it was a great Mode, and taken-up by his Court party to roast half Capons, tending a more exquisite taste and nutriment in it, then when dressed whole and entire; where I cannot but smile to think how it purzzled her Ladyships Carver, to hold him to the Knife, and to apportion half and quarter Limbs according to Art. Much more do I wonder what those Fellows at Rome did, or what they would have done here, who kept carving Schools ludi structorii, and had all manner of Fowl and Fish, and such other grand Festival meat carved in Wood, which they marked out with wooden Knives with very great curiosity, and instructed their Scholars, who learned it as a worshipful Employment and way to preferment, as the satirist very elegantly. Sumine cum magno lepus atque aper & Pygargus, Et Scythicae volucres, & Phoenicopterus ingens, Et Getulus Oryx hebeti lautissima Ferro Caeditur, & tota sonat ulmea caena suburra. Englished thus, The Sow's large Teat, the Hare and Bore and dear, Scythian, & Africks Fowl and Bearded Beast, The Gawdies of the Town, in Wood appear, So with dull Iron carved sounds Elmy Feast. And if it were not made almost incredible by the Superfluity and excess of her fortune, which cannot be supposed to have no way advanced her thoughts from her former industry, and frugal care and intendency. I might insert a story of her enquiry into the profit of the Kitchinstuff, and the exchanging of it for Candles, which those that knew her humour had purposely put into her head; till she was told to whom it belonged; and the customs of the Court, to most of which she answered, they should not think to have them take place as in the other Womans dayes, for she would look better to it: like Vespasian, she had learnt, That Dulcis odour lucri ex re qualibet, Gain was sweet from what ever thing. And the reason she used to give for this her frugal Inspection and parsimony, was the small allowance and mean pittance she had to defray the household expenses, which at her first coming to Court keeping, was barely sixty four thousand pounds per annum, until colonel Philip Jones, came to be controller of the household, when the weekly charge was Nineteen hundred twenty three pounds odd money, the defalcation of the rest, from the just sum of two thousand pounds, at the rate of a 100000 l. yearly, making up the four thousand pound for the two Weeks, above the 50. so exactly was this charge computed, and method punctually observed, that there might be no place for excess, and by means thereof, for deceit or any colluding practices. Her order of Eating and Meal times, was not less regulated, and though inverted, yet designed well to the decency as well as conveniency of her Service; for first of all, at the ringing of a Bell dined the Halberdiers, or men of the Guard with the inferior Officers; then the Bell rung again, and the Stewards Table was 9set( in the same Hall near the Water Stairs) for the better sort of those that waited on their Highnesses; Ten of whom were apportioned to a Table or mess, one of which was chosen by themselves every week for Steward, and he gave the Clerk of the kitchen the Bill of Fare, as was agreed upon generally every morning: To these Ten men, and what Friends should casually come to visit them, the value of 10. shillings in what flesh or fish soever they would have, with a Bottle of Sack, & two of Claret, was appointed; but to prevent after Comers from expecting any thing in the kitchen, there was a general rule, that if any man thought his business would detain him beyond dinner time, he was to give notice to the Steward of his mess, who would set aside for him as much as his share came too, and leave it in the Buttery. Suppers likewise they had none, Eggs or some slaps contenting cronwell and her Ladyship and to his exemplar all was conformed; in lieu thereof, for the Family there was constantly boiled 8 ston of Beef early in he morning, to keep her Retainers in heart and in earnest of a dinner, the Broth whereof, and all he Scraps and relics of dinner,( to give her her due) were alternately given to the Poor of Saint Margarets Westminster, and Saint Martins in the Fields, according to the Churchwardens Roll of each Parish, and that very orderly, without any Brabble or noise; so that amid so many Curses and imeprecations, which were uttered against him; he had some Prayers and Blessings from those hungry Jack daws, that frequented and attended this Dole. But those lame, decrepit, and starved precepts, never reached half way, and like impotent suspended Meteors, hoist half Region high, fell distinctly at last upon himself and Family. His Feasts was none of the liberallest, and far from magnificence, even those two he gave the French ambassador, and the Parliament in 1656, upon their gratulation of his Syndercombe deliverance, which last amounted not to above 1000 l. and she saved 200 l. of it in the Banquet, for a Big Bellied Woman, a Spectator, near Cromwell's Table, upon the serving thereof with Sweatmeats; desiring a few dry Candies of apricots, Col. Pride sitting at the same, instantly threw into her Apron a Conserve of Wet, with both his hands, and stained it all over; when as if that had been the Sign, Oliver catches up his Napkin and throws it at Pride, he at him again, while all of that Table were engaged in the Scuffle: the noise whereof made the Members rise before the Sweat-meats were set down, and believing dinner was done, go to this pastime of Gambols, and be Spectators of his Highnesses frolics. Were it worth a Description, I could give the Reader a just and particular Account of that Ahab Festival, as it was solemnized in the banqueting House of Whitehall. But I must pass it, and those other Nuptial Entertainments at the marriage of his Daughters, and the Treats he gave to Duke De Crequi; and Monsieur Mancin the Cardinal's great Counsellors, and Familiars Nephew, as things beyond her Sphere, and out of her charge and my purpose, and instance the common ordinary diet of this Family, whereby the Reader will better perceive, and be perhaps advantaged also by the intention and nature of this Discourse. Here follows the most usual Meat and Diet observed at her Table, most of them ordinary and vulgar, except some few Rarities, but such as arrided her Palate and expense, of which it will be no unpleasing Labour to the Keader, to peruse the Cookery, and manner of Dressing, as also her Preserves, &c. How to make a Rare Dutch Pudding. TAke a pound and a half of Fresh Beef, all lean, take a pound and a quarter of Beef Suet, sliced both very small, then take a half penny stale Loaf and grace it, a handful of Sage, and a little Winter savoury, a little Time, shred these very small; take four Eggs, half a pint of Cream, a few Cloves, Nutmegs, Mace and Pepper finely beaten, mingle them altogether very well, with a little Salt, roll it all up together in a green Colwort Leaf, and then tie it up hard in a linen Cloth, garnish your Dish with grated bread, and serve it up with Mustard in Sawcers. How to roast a Leg of Mutton the French way. Take half a pound of Mutton and a quarter of a pound of Suet, season it with sweet Heaths, and a little Nutmeg, and two or three Shallots; slice these very small, and stuff the Mutton round, then take some of the best Hackney Turnings, and boil them in Beef Broth very tender, then squeeze the water from them a little, set them in a Dish under the Leg of Mutton when it is half roasted and so let the gravy drop into them, and when the meat is roasted serve them in the Dish with it, with a little Fresh Butter and Vinegar, garnish your Dish with sliced Onions and Parsley, and some of the Turnip sliced. How to make Scotch collops of Veal.( this was almost Her constant Dish.) Take a Fillet of Veal, cut it out into very broad slices, fat and leau, not too thick; take eight Eggs, beat them very well with a little salt, grace a whole Nutmeg, take a handful of Thyme and strip it, take a pound of Sawsedges, half a pint of Stewing Oysters, the largest to be had, wash and cleanse them from the Gravel: then half fry your Veal with sweet Butter, then put in your Sawsedges and Oysters, then take a quarter of a pouud of Capers, shred them very small; three Anchovis, dissolve them in white Wine and fair water, so put in your Eggs, shred Capers, and Anchovis, Butter and Spice, and mingle them, and strew them in the Pan upon the Vealand Oysters; serve it with Sippets, with a little fresh butter, and vinegar, and lemons sliced, and Barberies, with a little salt. You must have a care to keep the meat stirring, lest the Eggs curdle with the heat of the fire. How to sauce a big and collar it like a Brawn. After you have stuck the big let him bleed well, then with scalding water and Rozin finely beaten take off the Hair, let him lie in gold water a little space, shifted two or three times, that he may look white, then cut off the Feet, flit him open, and take out his inwards, and cut off his head, take the two sides asunder, lay them in could water, steep it there a day and a night, shifting the water thrice, then take out the bones, toll up each side several, tying them as hard as possible, in the fashion of a Collar of Brawn, then tie it up in a Cloth hard, and put the head whole in another, then boil it in water and Salt, Cloves, Mace, and Nutmeg, and a handful of Rosemary, and ome Sweet herbs, while it is very tender; take it up and let it cool, then put it into the liquour that boiled it, adding there to two quarts of Small Beer; set the two Collars in a Dish garnished with Salt,( with the head entire in the middle) and stick in two Sprigs of Rosemary flowered and serve it with Sawcers of Mustard. How to make a Sweet pie with Lamb-stones, and Sweet-breads, and Sugar. Take the Lambstones and slit them in the middle, and skin them, wash the Sweatbreads both of Veal and Lamb, and wipe them very dry, take the Lambs Liver and shred it very small; take the Udder of a Leg of Veal and slice with it, season all with a little salt, Nutmeg, Mace, and Cloves beaten, and two whole Pepper, then shred two or three Pippins and candid Limon and Orange peel, half a dozen dates sliced, with Currants and White Sugar, a few Carroway seeds, a quarter of a pint of Verjuice, and as much rose-water; a couple of Eggs; Roll up all these together in little puddings of Balls made green with the juice of spinach, and lay a pudding, then a Sweatbread, and then a Lambstone, till you have filled up the pie, and cover them with Dates and sliced Citron and Limon. When it is drawn take two or three Yelks of Eggs, beat them, and put them to a little fresh Butter, White wine, and Sugar, and pour it into the Tunnel, scrape some Loaf Sugar upon the Lid and so serve it. A rare White-pot. Take three pints of Cream, whole cinnamon, a little sliced Nutmeg, set on the Cream, and spice and scald it, take a penny Loaf slice it very thin, take a Couple of Marrow bones, lay the Marrow sliced on the bottom of the Dish, upon the Marrow lay the bread, then lay Raisins of the Sun over the bread, and lay Marrow again as before, to the 3. pints of scalded Cream add 9 Yelks of Eggs well beaten, with rose-water, sweeten the Cream with white Sugar, and take out the whole cinnamon, and beat the Cream and eggs well, fill up a broad shallow Basin, and bake it; when 'tis enough scrape fine Sugar on it, and stick it with read and white Muska-does, and so serve it. A rare Citron Pudding. Take a penny loaf and grace it, a pint and a half of Cream, half a dozen of eggs, one Nutmeg sliced, a little Salt, an Ounce of candied Citron sliced small, a little candied Orange Pel sliced, 3 Ounces of Sugar, put those into a wooden Dish well flowered and covered with a Cloth, and when the water boileth put it in; boil it well, and serve it up with Rose-water and Sugar, and stick it with Wafers or blanch'd Almonds. How to make Liver Puddings. Take the Guts of a young Hog, wash them very clean, and lay them two or three dayes in the water, take the Liver of the same Hog and boil it till it will grace, then grace it very small and fine, take to the weight of the Liver almost the weight of Beef Suet, season it with Salt, Cloves, Mace, and Nutmeg, finely beaten, a penny Loaf grated, a pound of the best white Sugar, two pound of good Currants, a pint of good Cream a quarrer of a pint of Rose water, three eggs; mix altogether to such a thickness as you may fill the Guts, then prick them, and put them into boiling water, and keep an even sire for half a quarter of an hour, then take them up and lay them upon straw; you must have a care in boiling them, that you ●ye them not too hard nor too slacken, less they break. How to make Marrow Puddings,( which she usually had to her Breakfast.) Take a pound of the best Jordan Almonds, blanche them, beat them fine in a ston or wooden Mortar( not in brass) with a little rose-water, take a pound of fine powder Sugar, a penny Loaf grated, grated Nutmeg, a pint of Cream, the Marrow of two Marrow-bones, two grains of Ambergris; mingle them altogether with a little Salt, fill the Skins, boil them gently as before. How to make Marrow Pasties. Take some Marrow and apple, shred the Marrow and apple, and put to them a little Sugar; put them into puff past, and fry them in a pan with fresh butter, and serve them up to the Table with a little white Sugar strewed in it. A Country way to make Sawsedges. Take Pork, not so much sat as lean, mince it exceeding small together, then take part of the Fleck of Pork, which is the suet, in pieces about the bigness of the top of your finger, season each apart with minced Sage, good store of Pepper and Salt, some Cloves and Mace, mix in the seasoning into each of them; take the small sheeps Guts, and cleanse them,( other use Capors Guts) and fill them with your Funnel, always putting some of the Fleck between the minced, if you have it ready you may sprinkle a little Sack on the top of the Sawsedge Meat, it will make it fill the better. Another way. Cut a Gammon that is very read, and half boil it, mince it very small, if the Gammon be not fat, take half as much Lard of Bacon, mince it likewise, mingle them together, and beat them in a Mortar, season it with Time and Sage minced very small, and good store of Pepper beaten to dust, with a little Cloves, Mace, and Nutmeg, and a pretty quantity of Salt, for they must taste of that very strong, add to them the Yolk of two Eggs, and so much read wine as will bring them up into a stiff body, mingle them well with your hands, fill them into middle Skins as big as ordinary Sawsedges, then hang them in the chimney for a time, they are not to be eaten in the Skin, but must be cut out very thin roundways, and do serve for salad all the year long. To make green sauce. Take a handful, or a greater quantity of Sorrel, beat it in a Mortar with Pippins pared and quartered, add thereto a little Vinegar and Sugar, put it into Sawcers. Otherwise take Sorrel, beat it and stamp it well in a Mortar, scruze out the juice of it, put thereto a little Vinegar, Sugar, and two hard eggs minced small, a little Butter and grated Nutmeg, set this upon the Coals till it is hot, and pour it into the dish on the Sippets, this is sauce for hen, or Veal and Bacon. To dress Udders and Tongues. When they are boiled enough in the Beef Pot and skinned, you must have your Turnips ready boiled, cut in pieces and soaked in Butter, or otherwise Collyflowers and carrots, or all of them, then put the Turnips all over the bottom of a large dish, then slice out the Tongues and lay the sides one against another, slice the Udders and lay them between, opposite to one another, garnish the Collyflowers all over them, and the carrots up and down between the Collyflowers, with Barberies and Parsley in the brim of the dish. To make Goosberry Cream. First boil, or you may preserve your gooseberries, then having a clear Cream boiled up and seasoned with old cinnamon, Nutmeg, Mace, Sugar, Rose-water and Eggs, dish it up, and when it is could take up the gooseberries with a pin, and stick them on in rounds as thick as they can lie upon the said Cream, garnishing your Dish with them, and strew them over with the finest Sugar and serve them up. To make Punnado. Take one quart of running water, put it on the sire in a Skiller, then cut a light roll of bread in slices, about the bigness of a groat, and as thin as Wafers, lay it on a dish on a few Coals, then put it into the water with two handful of Currants, picked and washed, a little large Mace, season it with Sugar and rose-water, when it is enough. To make a Sack Posset. Set a Gallon of Milk on the fire, put therein whole Cinnamon and large Mace, when it boils stir in a half or whole pound of Naples biscuit grated very small, keeping of it stirring while it boils, then beat S. Eggs together, casting of the whites away, beat them well with a Ladleful of Milk, then take the Milk off the Fire and stir in the Eggs, then put it on again, but keep it stirring for fear of curding, then make ready a pint of Sack, warming it upon Coals with a little Rose water; season your Milk with Sugar, and pour it into the Sack in a large basin, and stir it apace, then strew on a good deal of beaten Cinnamon, and so serve it up. To make a made Dish of apple. Put on a Skillet of water with some Currants a boiling; then pare about a dozen of Pippins, and cut them from the Core into the said water, when they are boiled tender, pour them into a Cullendar, when the water is drained from them, put them into a dish and season them ( but if you have time stay until they are could, lest it melt your Sugar, besides it will spoil the taste) with Sugar, Rose-water, Cinnamon, and Carraway-seeds, then roll out two sheets of past; put one in the Dish bottom, and all over the Brims, then lay in the apple in the bottom round and high, wet it round and cover it with the other sheet; close it and carve it about the brims of the Dish as you please, prick it and bake it, scrape Sugar upon it and serve it up. To roast Eels. Shen they are flayed, cut them to pieces about three or four inches long, dry them, and put them into a Dish, mince a little Time, two Onions, a piece of lemon Pill, a little Pepper beaten small, Nutmeg, Mace, and Salt, when it is cut exceeding small, strew it on the fells with the solk of two or three Eggs, then having a small Spit( otherwise a couple of square sticks made for that purpose) spit through the eel across ways, and put a bay Leaf between every piece of eel, and tying the sticks on a Spit let them roast. You need not turn them constantly, but let them stand until they hiss, or are brown, so do them on the other side, and put the dish( in which the eel was with the seasoning) underneath to save the gravy, baste it over with sweet Butter. The sauce must be a little claret Wine, some minced Oysters with their liquour, a grated Nutmeg and an Onion, with sweet Butter, and so serve it. To make an eel pie. Your eels being flayed, washed, and cut in pieces, as long as you think convenient, put to them a handful of sweet herbs, Parsley minced with an Onion, season them with Pepper, Salt, Cloves, Mace, and Nutmeg, and having your Cossin made of good past, put them in and strew over them, two handful of Currants, and a Limon cut in slices, then put on Butter and close the pie, when it is baked, put in at the Funnel a little sweet Butter, white Wine and Vinegar, beaten up with a couple of Yolks of Eggs. To dress a Cods head. Cut off the Codds head beyond the Gills, that you may have part of the body with it, boil it in water and salt, to which you may add half a pint of Vinegar, the head must be little more then covered before you put it into the cauldron, take a quart of the biggest cleanest Oysters, and a bunch of sweet herbs and Onions, and put them into the mouth of the head, and with a packthread bind the jaws fast, you must be sure to pick it and wash it very clean, when it is boiled enough, take it up and set it a drying over a Chafingdish of Coals, then take the Oyster liquour, four anchovies, and a sliced Onion; put to them a quarter of a pint of white Wine, and sweet butter, and melt them together, and pour it on the Cods head, stick all or most of the Oysters upon the head, or where they will enter, and garnish it over with them, grace on a little Nutmeg, and sand it smoking up, garnish the brims of the dish with Limon and sliced bay Leaves. To boil Perches. Let your liquour boil, and your Pan be seasoned with a little white Wine, a couple of Onions cut in halfs, and a bunch of sweet herbs, and a little white Pepper, boil them up very quick, and flay them on both sides, and dish them upon Sippets, then take a little white Wine, gravy, and Vinegar, with a grated Nutmeg, and almost boil it over a Chafingdish, then pour sweet Butter over it; garnish it with Barberies and sliced Limmons. To boil eels. Cut the eels as before, and stew them, when they are half done, beat a little Ale with Vinegar, and put into the liquour, with some Parsley and sweet herbs: Dish them and serve them up in their broth with a little Salt. To boil Woodcocks or Snipes. Boil them either in strong broth, or in water and salt, and being boiled take out the Guts and chop them small with the Liver, put to it some crumbs of grated whitebread, a little of the Broth of the Cock, and some large Mace; stew them together with some gravy, then dissolve the yolks of two Eggs with some wine Vinegar, and a little grated Nutmeg, and when you are ready to dish it, put the eggs to it, and stir it amongst the sauce with a little Butter; dish them on sippets, and run the sauce over them with some beaten Butter, and Capers, or lemon minced small, barberies or whole pickled grapes. Sometimes with this sauce boil some sliced onions, and currans boiled in a broth by itself; when you boil it with onions rub the bottom of the dish with garlic. How to boil Cocks or Larks otherways. Boil them with the Guts in them, in strong broth, or fair water, and three or four whole onions, large mace, and salt; the Cocks being boiled, make sauce with some thin slices of Manchet of grated bread in another Pipkin, and some of the broth where the fowl or the cocks boil, then put to it some butter and the guts and liver minced, then have some yolks of eggs dissolved with some Vinegar, and some grated nutmeg, put it to the other ingredients, stir them together, and dish the fowl on fine sippets, pour on the sauce with some sliced lemon, grapes, or barberies, and run it over with beaten butter. To boil Capons, Pullets, Chickens, Pigeons, Pheasants or Partridges. fierce them either with the bone or boned, then take off the skin whole, with the legs, wings, neck, and head on, mince the body with some bacon or beef-suet, season it with nutmeg, pepper, cloves, beaten ginger, salt, and a few sweet herbs finely minced and mingled among some 3 or 4 yolks of eggs, some sugar, whole grapes, gooseberries, barberies, and pistaches; fill the skins and prick them up in the back, then stew them between two dishes with some strong broth, white wine, butter, some large Mace, marrow, gooseberries, and sweet herbs; being stewed serve them on sippets with some marrow and sliced lemon; in winter, currans. To boil a Chicken or Capon in White Broth. First boil the Capon in water and salt, then take three pints of strong broth, and a quart of white wine, and stew it in a pipkin with a quarter of a pound of dates, half a pound of fine sugar, four or five blades of large mace, the marrow of 3 marrow bones, a handful of white endive; stew these in a pipkin very leisurely, that it may but only simper, then being finely stewed and the broth well tasted, straim the yolks of ten eggs with some of the broth. Before you dish up the Capons or Chickens, put in the eggs into the broth, and keep it stirring that it may not curdle, give it a walm and set it from the fire; the fowle being dished up put on the broth, and garnish the meat with dates, marrow, large mace, endive, preserved barberies, and oranges, boiled skirrets, poungarnet, and curnells. Make a lear of almond paste and grape verjuice. A Turkish dish of meat. Take an interlarded piece of Beef, cut it into thin slices, and put it into a pot that hath a close cover, or stewing pan; then put into it a good quantity of clean picked rice, skin it very well, and put into it a quantity of wnole pepper, two or three whole onions, and let this boil very well, then take out the onions, and dish it on sippets, the thicker it is the better. To stew a Fillet of Beef in the Italian Fashion. Take a young tender fillet of beef, and take away all the skins and sinews clean from it, put to it some good white wine( that is not too sweet) in a boul, wash it and crush it well in the wine, then strew upon it a little pepper, and a powder called Tamara in Italian, and as much salt as will season it, mingle them very well, and put to it as much white wine as will cover it, lay a trencher upon it to keep it down in a close pan with a weight on it, and let it steep two nights and a day; then take it out and put it into a pipkin with some good beef broth, but put none of the pickle to it, but onely beef broth: and that sweet, not salt; cover it close, and set it on the embers, then put to it a few whole cloves and mace, and let it stew till it be enough, it will be very tender and of an excellent taste; serve it with the same broth as much as will cover it. To make this Tamara, take two ounces of coriander seed, an ounce of aniseed, an ounce of fennel seed, two ounces of cloves, and an ounce of cinnamon; beat them into a gross powder, with a little powder of winter savoury, and put them into a viol glass to keep. To make an excellent Pottage called Skinke. Take a leg of beef, and chop it into three pieces, then boil it in a pot with three pottles of spring water, a few cloves, mace, and whole pepper; after the pot is scummed, put in a bundle of sweet marjoram, rosemary, time wintersavory, sage and parsley, bound up hard, some salt, and two or three great onions whole; then about an hour before dinner put in three marrowbones, and thicken it with some strained oatmeal, or manchet sliced and steeped with some gravy, strong broth, or some of the pottage: then a little before you dish up the Skinke, put into it a little fine powder of Saffron, and give it a walm or two; dish it on large slices of French Bread, and dish the marrow-bones on them 〈◇〉 a fine clean large dish; then h 〈…〉 o or three manchets cut into to 〈…〉 nd being finely toasted, lay 〈…〉 e knuckle of beef in the midd●e of the dish, the marrow bones round about it, and the toasts round about the dish brim, serve it hot. To stew a Rump, or the fat end of a Brisket of Beef in the French fashion. Take a Rump of Beef, boil it and scum it clean, in a stewing pan or broad mouthed pipkin, cover it close and let it stew an hour; then put to it some whole pepper, cloves, mace, and salt, scotch the meat with your Knife to let out the gravy, then put in some claret wine, and half a dozen of sliced Onions; having boiled, an hour after put in some Capers, or a handful of broom buds, and half a dozen of cabbage lettuce being first parboil'd in fair water, and quartered, two or three spoorfuls of wine vinegar, and as much verjuice, and let it stew till it be tender; then serve it on sippets of French bread, and dish it on those fippets; blow off the fat clean off the Broth, or scum it, and stick it with fried bread. To boil a Chine, Rump, Surloine, Brisket, Rib, Flank, Buttock, or Fillet of Beef powdered. Take any of these, and give them in summer a weeks powdering, in winter a fortnight, stuff them or plain; if you stuff them, do it with all manner of sweet herbs, fat beef minced, and some nutmeg; serve them on brewis, with roots or cabbage boiled in milk, with beaten Butter, &c. To pickle roast Beef, Chine, Surloine, Rib, Brisket, Flank, or Neats Tongues. Take any of the foresaid Beef, as thine or fore-rib, and stuff it with pennyroyal, or other sweet herbs, or parsley minced small, and some salt, prick in here and there a few whole cloves, and roast it; then take Claret wine, wine vinegar, whole pepper, rosemary, and bays, and time bound up close in a bundle, and boiled in some Claret wine, and wine vinegar, make the pickle, and put some salt to it, then pack it up close in a Barrel that will but just hold it, put the pickle to it, close it on the head, and keep it for your use. To stew Beef in Gobbets in the French fashion. Take a flank of Beef or any part but the leg, cut it into ssices or gobbets as big as a pullets egg, with some gobbets of fat, and boil it in a pot or pipkin with some fair spring water, scum it clean, and put to it an hour after it hath boiled, carrots, parsnips, turnips, great onions, salt, some cloves, mace, and whole pepper, cover it close, and stew it till it be very tender; then half an hour before dinner, put into it some picked time, parsley, winter savoury, sweet marjoram, sorrel and spinach( being a little bruised with the back of a ladle) and some claret wine: then dish it on fine sippets, and serve it to the table hot, garnish it with grapes, barberries, or gooseberries. Sometimes use spices, the bottoms of boiled artichokes put into beaten butter, and grated nutmeg, garnished with barberries. Stewed collops of Beef. Take of the buttock of beef thin slices, across the grain of the meat, then hack them and fry them in sweet butter, and being fried fine and brown, put them in a pipkin with some strong broth, a little claret wine, and some nutmeg, stew it very tender; and half an hour before you dish it put to it some good gravy, elder vinegar, and a clove or two: when you serve it put some juice of orange, and three or four slices on it, stew down the gravy somewhat thick, and put into it when you dish it some beaten butter. Olines of Beef stewed and roast. Take a buttock of beef, and cut some of it into thin slices as broad as your hand, then hack them with the back of a knife, lard them with small lard, and season them with pepper, salt, and nutmeg; then make a sarsing with some sweet herbs, time, onions, the yolks of hard eggs, beef-suet or lard all minced, some salt, barberries, grapes, or gooseberries; season it with the former spices lightly, and work it up together, then lay it on the slices, and soul them up round with some cawl of veal, beef or mutton, bake them in a dish in the oven, or roast them, then put them in a pipkin with some butter, and saffron, or none, blow off the fat from the gravy and put it to them, with some artichokes, potato, or skirrets blanched, being first boiled, a little claret wine, and serve them on sippets, with some sliced orange, lemon barberries, grapes, or gooseberries. To boil a capon or chicken with Colyflowers. Cut of the Buds of your flowers, and boil them in milk with a little mace till they be very tender, then take the yolks of 2 eggs, and strain them with a quarter of a pint of sack then take as much thick butter being drawn with a little vinegar and a sliced lemon, brew them together; then take the flowers out of the milk, put them to the butter and sack, dish up your capon being tender boiled upon sippets finely carved, and pour on the sauce, serve it to the table with a little salt. To boil a Capon or Chicken with asparagus. Boil your Capon or Chicken in fair water and some salt, then put in their bellies a little mace, chopped parsley, and sweet butter; being boiled, serve them on sippets, and put a little of the broth on them: then have a bundle or two of asparagus boiled, put in beaten butter, and serve it on your Capon or chicken. A rare Fricase. Take six pidegon and six chicken peepers, scald and truss them being drawn clean, head and all on, then set them and have some lamb-stones and sweetbreads blanched, parboil'd and sliced, fry most of the sweetbreads flowered, have also some asparagus ready, cut off the tops an inch long, the yolks of two hard eggs, pistaches, the marrow of six Marrow-bones, half the marrow fried green, and white batter, let it be kept warm till it be almost dinner time, then have a clean frying pan, and fry the fowl with good sweet butter, being finely fried put out the butter, and put to them some roast Mutton gravy, some large fried oysters, and some salt; then put in the hard yolks of eggs, and the rest of the sweetbreads that are not fried, the pistaches, asparagus, and half the marrow: then stew them well in the frying pan with some grated nutmeg, pepper( a clove or two of garlic if you please) a little white wine, and let them be well stewed. Then have ten yolks of eggs dissolvedin a dish with grape-verjuice or wine vinegar, and a little beaten mace and put it to the frycase, then have a French six penny loaf sliced into a fair large dish set on coals, with some good mutton gravy, then give the frycase two or three walms on the fire, and pour it on the sops in the dish; garnish it with fried sweetbread, fried oysters, fried marrow, pistaches, sliced almonds, and the juice of two or three Oranges. To boil a Capon, Pullet, or Chicken. Boil them in good mutton broth, with mace, a saggot of sweet herbs, sage, spinach, marigold leaves and flowers, white or green endive, borage, bugloss, parsley, and sorrel, and serve it on sippets. To boil Capons or Chickens with Sage and Parsley. First boil them in water and salt, then boil some parsley, sage, two or three eggs hard, chop them; then have a few thin slices of fine manchet, and stew all together, but break not the slices of bread, stew them with some of the broth wherein the Chickens boils, some large mace, butter, a little white wine or Vinegar, with a few barberies or grapes; dish up the chickens on the sauce, and run them over with sweet butter and lemon cut like dice, the peel cut like small lard, and boil a little peel with the chickens. To boil a Capon or Chicken with divers compositions. Take off the skin whole; but leave on the legs, overflowings, and head; mince the body with some beef-suet or lard, put to it some sweet herbs minced, and season it with cloves, mace, pepper, salt, two or three eggs, grapes, gooseberries, or barberies, bits of potato or mushrooms: In the winter with sugar, currans, and prunes fill the skin, prick it up, and stew it between two dishes, with large mace, and strong broth, pieces of artichokes, cardones or asparagus and marrow: being finely stewed, serve it on carved sippets, and run it over with beaten butter, leon sliced, and scrape on sugar. To boil a Capon, Chicken with Cardones, Mushrooms, artichokes, or Oysters. The foresaid fowls being parboild and cleansed from the grounds, stew them finely; then take your cardones being cleansed and peeled into water, have a skillet of fair Water boiling hot, and put them therein; being tender boiled, take them up and fry them in chopped lard or sweet butter, pour away the butter, and put them into a pipkin, with strong broth, pepper, mace, ginger, verjuice, and suyce of orange; stew all together with some stained almonds, and some sweet herbs chopped, give them a walm, and serve your capon or chicken on sippets. Let them be fearsed, and wrap your fearest Fowl in cawls of Veal, half roast them, then stew them in a pipkin with the foresaid cardonce and broth. To boil any Land Fowl, as turkey, Bustard, Pheasant, Peacock, Partridge, or the like. Take a Turkey and flay off the skin, leave the legs and rumps whole, then mince the flesh raw with some Beef suet or lard, season it with some nutmeg, pepper, salt, and some minced sweet herbs, then put to it some yolks of raw eggs, mingle all together with 2 bottoms of boiled artichokes, roasted chestnuts blanched, some marrow, and some boiled skirrets or parsnips cut like dice, or some pleasant pears, and yolks of hard eggs in quarters, some gooseberries, grapes, or barberies; fill the skin, and prick it up in the back, stew it in a stewing pan or deep dish, and cover it with another; but first put some strong broth to it, some Marrow, artichokes boiled and quartered, large mace, white wine, chestnuts qualters of pears, salt, grapes, barbeeries, and some of the meat made up in balls estewed with the Turkey; being finely boiled or stewed, serve it on fine carved sippets, broth it, and lay on the garnish with slices of lemon and whole lemon-peel, run it over with beaten butter, and garnish the dish with chestnuts, yolks of hard eggs, and large mace. For the lears or thickening, yolks of hard eggs strained with some of the broth, or strained almond paste with some of the broth, or else strained bread and sorrel. otherways you may boil the former fowls either boned and trust up with a farsing of some minced veal or mutton, and seasoned as the former in all points, with those materials, or boil it with the bones in being trust up. A Turkey to bake, and break the bones. otherways bone the fowl, and fill the body with the foresaid farsing or make a pudding of grated bread, minced suet of Beef or Veal, seasoned with cloves, mace, pepper, salt and grapes, fill the body and prick up the back and stew it as aforesaid. Or make the pudding of grated bread, beef-suet minced, some currans, nutmegs, cloves, sugar, sweet herbs, salt, juice of spinach; if yellow, saffron, some minced meat, cream, eggs, and barberies: fill the fowl and stew it in mutton broth, and white Wine, with the gizzard, liver, and bones, stew it down well, then have some artichock bottoms boiled and quartered, some potatoes boiled and blanched, and some dates quartered, also some marrow boiled in water and salt; for, the garnish some boiled skirret or pleasant pears. Then make a lear of almond paste strained with mutton broth for the thickening of the former broth. Otherwayes simplo being stuffed with parsley, serve it in with butter, vinegar, and parsley boiled and minced; as also bacon boiled on it or about it, in two pieces, and two saucers of green sauce. Or otherwayes for variety, boil your fowl in water and salt, then take strong broth and put in a faggot of sweet herbs, mace, marrow, cucumber sliced, and thin slices of interlarded bacon, and salt, &c. To boil Capon or Chicken with Sugar Pease. When the cods be but young, string them and pick off the husks; then take two or three handfuls and put them int6o a pipkin with half a pound of swet butter, a quarter of a pint of fair water, gross, pepper, salt, mace, and some salad oil: stew them till they be very tender, and strain to them 3 or 4 yolks of eggs, with six spoonfuls of Sack. To make a Neats-Tongue pie. TAke a couple of Neats Tongues and almost boil them, then cut out the meat at the butt end, as far as you can, not breaking it out at the sides, put a little suet to the said meat you cut out, a few sweet herbs and parsley mingled altogether very small, season it with a little pepper, salt, cloves, mace, ginger, and a handful of grated bread, a little sugar, and the yolks of three or four eggs, mould it up into a body, season your Tongues in the inside and outside with your seasoning aforesaid, and wash them within with the yolk of an egg, and force them where you cut forth the meat, and make a forced meat of the residue; then having the coffin made in the form of a Neats Tongue, lay them in with the puddings little bales to them, put in dates and shred lemon with butter on the top, and close it up; when it is baked, put in a lear of the Venison sauce, which is Claret Wine, a handful of grated bread, cinnamon, ginger, sugar, and a little vinegar, boil them up so thick, as it may onely run like butter, it ought to be sharp and sweet; this sauce serves for any part of Venison, washed the Shoulders, Sides and Hannches, which if seasoned, must be laid in water, and when roasted must be served up stuck with rosemary. To Roast a Levret or Hare. CAse your Levret, but cut not off their hinder legs nor ears, but hack one leg through another, so likewise cut a whole through one ear, and put it through the other; in the mean time make your sauce with a little time, Sweet-marjorum, and Winter-savoury very small, with the liver of the Hare boiled, and the yolks of three or four hard eggs, with a little Bacon and Beef-suet, boil this well up with water and vinegar, when it is boiled, add a grated Nutmeg, sweet Butter, and a little Sugar, and dish your Hare; the same may you make to rabbits. To Stew Ducks the French fashion. TAke the Duck and half roast it, put half a score oynion; in the belly whole, some whole pepper, a bundle of time, a little salt, when it is half roasted, take it up and slash it into pieces, put it between two dishes, and pierce the gravy, mix some claret wine with that gravy, and a little sliced nutmeg, acouple of anchovies, wash them and slit them, slice the o-onyons in the Ducks belly, cover the dishes close, so let them stew while enough; take some butter, beat it thick and shred a lemon in it and serve it, garnish your dish with the lemon peel and your onions To make a pigeon Pie. TRuss your pigeons to bake, and set them, and lard the one half of them with Bacon, mince a few sweet herbs and parsley with a little beef suet, the yolks of hard eggs, and an onion or two, season it with salt, beaten pepper, cloves, mace, and nutmeg, work it up with a piece of butter, and stuff the bellies of the pigeons, season them with some salt, beaten pepper, cloves, mace, and beaten nutmeg, take also as many lambs stones, seasoned as aforesaid, with six collops of Bacon,( the salt drawn out) then make a round coffin and put in your pigeons, and if you will put in lambs stones and sweet breads, and some artichoke bottoms, or other dry meat to soak up the juice, because the pie will be very sweet and full of it, then put a little white wine beaten up with the yolk of an egg when it comes out of the oven, and so serve it. To bouyl pigeons after the Dutch way. TAke your pigeons, set and lard them, put them into a pipkin with so much strong broth,( made of knucles of veal, and mutton, and beaf) and well cover them, when they are scummed, put to them a faggot of sweet herbs, some large mace, a handful of capers, and raisins of the sun shred very small, six quartered dates, a piece of butter with three yolks of hard eggs minced, with a handful of grapes or barberies, then beat two yolks of your eggs with verjuice and some of white bread, a ladle of sweet butter & a grated nutmeg, so serve it with sippits; though the modern way is to boil it with colops of bacon, and dish it with rice boiled, carrots and turnips minced small and colliflowers. To make an Egg pie, or Mince pie of Eggs. TAke the yolks of two dozen of eggs, shred them, take the same weight of beef suet, about a pound, half a dozen pippins, a poud of currants well washed and dried, half a pound of sugar, a penny worth of beaten spice, a few carroway seeds, candid orange peel shred, a little verjuice, some rose-water, fill the coffin, and bake it with a gentle heat. To make a salad of a could Hen or Pullet. TAke a Hen and roast it, let it be could, carve up the legs, take the flesh and mince it small shred a lemon, a little parsley and onions, an apple, a little pepper and salt with oil and vinegar, garnish the dish with the bones and lemon peel, and so serve it. To make a Hash of Capon or Pullet. TAke a Capon or Partridge and roast them, and being could, mince them very fine, the brains and wings, and tear the legs and rumps whole to be carbonadoed, then put some strong mutton broth or good gravy, greated nutmeg, a great onion and salt, then stew them in a large earthen pipkin or sauce-pan, stew the rumps and legs in the same strong broth in another pipkin, then take some light French bread chipt, and cover the bottom of the dish, steep the bread in the same broth, or good mutton gravy, then pour the hash on the steeped bread, lay the legs and the rump on the hash, with some fried oysters sliced lemon, and lemon peel, the juice of orange, and yolks of eggs strained, and beaten butter, garnish the dish with carves oranges, lemons, &c. thus you may hash any kind of foul; there are other whimsical ingredients in the practise of Cookery, but I mention onely such as have a ready and natural, not forced or foreign relish, which was little used here. To butter Eggs upon Toasts. TAke twenty Eggs, beat them in a dish with some salt, and put butter to them, then have two large Rolls or fine Manchets, cut them in Toasts and toast them against the fire with a pound of fine sweet butter, being finely buttered in a fare clean dish; put the eggs on the toasts, and garnish your dish with pepper and salt, otherways half boil them in the shells, then butter them, and serve them on toasts or toasts about them. To Stew a Line, Leg, Breast of Mutton. TAke a loin of Mutton and joint it well, and do so to the breast, and draw and stuff it with sweet herbs and minced parsley, then put it in a deep stewing dish, with the right side downward, put to it so much white wine and strong broth as will stew it, set it on a great heap of coals, put in two or three onions, a bundle of sweet herbs, and a little large mace, when it is almost stewed, take a handful of spinach, parsley and endive and put into it, at the last you may put some gooseberries or grapes; in the winter time sampiere and capers, here you may add them at any time, dish up the loin of Mutton and put by the liquour you do not use, and thicken the other with yolks of eggs and sweet butter, so put on the sauce and the herbs over the meat, and garnish the dish with lemon and barberies. To hash a rabbit. YOu must take the flesh from the bones of the rabbit, being before washed, and mince it small with your mincing knife, so put to it a little strong broth and vinegar, an oynion or two, with a grated nutmeg, and set it stew up together, then mince a handful of boiled parsley green, with a lemon cut like dice, and a few barberries, put it into the Harsh, and toste it altogether, and when it is enough, put a ladleful of sweet butter to it, and dish it upon the lines, so garnish it with lemon. To Carbonado Mutton. boil a shoulder or breast of Mutton, then scorch them with your knife, and strew on minced time and salt, and a little nutmeg, when they are boiled, dish them up; the sauce is claret wine boiled up with two onions, a little famphiere and capers, and a little gravy, garnished with lemons. To pickle Oysters. TAke a quart of the largest great Oysters, with the liquour, wash them clean, and wipe them, add to them a pint of fair water, with half a pint of white wine vinegar, half an ounce of whole pepper, an handful of salt, a quarter of an ounce of large mace, with the liquour of the Oysters strained, put altogether in a pipkin over a soft fire, let them simper together a quarter of an hour; when the Oysters are enough, take them up and put them into a little fair water and vinegar, until they be could, the pickle boiling a quarter of an hour after the Oysters are taken up, both being could put them up together; when you use them, garnish the dish with barberries and lemon, and a little of the mace and pepper, and pour in some of the pickle. Away to fry rabbits with sweet sauce. CUt your rabbit in pieces, wash it and dry it well in a cloth, take some fresh butter and fry the rabbit in it, when your rabbit is little more then half fried, take some slices shred very small, a quarter of a pint of cream, the yolks of a couple of eggs, some grated nutmeg and salt; when the rabbit is enough, put them into the pan, and stir them altogether, take a little vinegar, fresh butter and sugar, melt it together, and so serve it with sippets, the dish garnished with flowers, &c. How to roast a rabbit with oysters. WAsh your rabbit and dry it well, take half a pint of Oysters, wash them and wipe them clean one by one, and put them into the rabbits belly, a couple of onions shred, whole pepper, large mace, two or three sprigs of time, sow up the belly: for the sauce as usual, the liver and parsley, a hard egg, shred them together, and beat some butter thick, put it into the dish and serve it. To make a Frickasse of Chickens. TAke three or four Chickens, scald them, flay off the skin and feathers together, put them in a little water, take half a pint of white wine, and two or three whole onions, some large mace and nutmeg tied up in a cloth, a bundle of sweet herbs and a little salt, and put them all in a pipkin closely covered, let them simmer a quarter of an hour, then take half a dozen yolks of eggs, half a pound of sweet butter, four anchovies dissolved in a little of the broth, shred your boiled spice small, take a quarter of a pound of capers, shred them very small, put the anchovies dissolved into the eggs and butter and capers, and so stir it altogether over a chafing-dish of coals, till it begin to thicken, then take the Chicken out of the broth and pour lear upon them, serve them with sippets and lemon sliced. Another way to fry the same Fricasse brown. TAke four Chickens, scald them and cut them in quarters, beat them flat with your cleaver, and break their bones, dry them with a cloth very well, and flower them all over on the skinny sides, your pan being hot with clarified butter, put them in with the skinny sides downward, fry them brown, then turn them, let your lear be a little claret wine and gravy, then put your liquour out of your pan, and put in your lear, with pieces of sassages wrung off as long as your thumb, and a pint of oysters, two or three onions, with a bundle of sweet herbs, a grated nutmeg, and two or three anchovies, let them boil up in the pan, then beat the yolks of four eggs, with a little strong broth, take the pan off the fire and put them in, if it turns too thick, you may thin it with wine, gravy or strong broth, keep it shaking whilst it's on the fire; then dish up your Chickens in sippets, and pour on your lear and oysters, with your pieces of sassages by the sides of the dish, and garnish it with lemon. A grand salad. TAke a quarter of a pound of raisins of the sun, a quarter of a pound of blancht almons, a quarter of a pound of capers, a quarter of a pound of olives, the like quantity of samphiere, a quarter of a pound of pickle cucumbers, a lemon shred, some pickled french beans, a wax three set in the middle of the dish, pasted to the dish, lay all their quarters round the dish( you may also mince the flesh of a roasted hen, with sturgeon and shrimps) and garnish the dish with cut beans and turnips in several figures. How to pickle French-beans. TAke your Beans and string them, boil them tender, then take them off, and let them stand till they are could, put them into the pickle of beer-vinegar, pepper and salt, cloves and mace, with a little ginger. A Cordial strengthening Broth. TAke a read Cock, strip off the feathers with the skin, take a rolling-pin and bruise his bones to shivers, set it over the fire and just cover it with water, put in some salt, and watch the scumming and boiling of it, put in a handful of harts-horn, a quarter of a pound of blew currants, as many stoned raisins of the sun, as many prunes, four blades of large mace, a bottom crust of a white-loaf, half an ounce of china-root sliced, being steeped three hours before in warm water, boil in three or four pieces of gold, strain it and put in a little fine sugar and juice of orange and so use it. Another way. TAke a Cock or two, cut off their wings and legs, cleanse all the blood out of the inside, parboyl them very well, that when they are boiled, there may arise no scum, then wash them again in fair water, put them in a pitcher with a pint of Rhenish wine, and as much of your aforesaid strong broth as will cover them, add thereto a few cloves, large mace, shred ginger and nutmeg, a little whole pepper, with a small quantity of china, and an ounce or two of harts-horn, put a little salt and stop up your pitcher close that no steam may come forth; you must boil the pitcher in a great pot about six hours, then pour out the broth and strain it into a basin, and scruze into it the juice of two or three lemons. These were he ordinary morning draughts, with caudles, for variety, of the Protectress and her Master, and about 11 a clock, a cup of small Ale with a toast and sugar. How to make Barley-broth. TAke Barley and put in fair water, give it three qualms over the fire, separate the waters, and put it into a cullender, boil it in a fourth water, with a blade of mace and a clove, and when it is boiled away, put in some raisins and currants, and when the fruit is boiled enough, take it off and season it with white white, rose-water, butter and sugar, and a couple of yolks of eggs beaten with it: This was a Mess frequently prepared for Oliver. To make a Pudding of Hogs Liver another way. boil your Hogs Liver and grace it, put to it more grated bread then Liver, with as much fine flower, as of either, put twelve eggs to the value of a gallon of this mixture, with about two pound of beef suet minced small, with a pound and a half of currants, half a quarter of a pint of rose-water, a good quantity of cloves and mace, nutmeg, cinnamon, and ginger, all minced very small, mix all these with sweet milk and cream, let it be no thicker then fritter batter: To fill your Hogs guts, you may make with it the maw fit to be eaten hot at Table; in your kniting or tying the guts, you must remember to give them three or four inches scope: In your putting them into the boiling water, you must handle them round, to bring the meat equal to all parts of the gut, they will ask about half an hour boiling, the boiling must be sober, if the wind rise in them, you must be ready to prick them, or else they will fly and burst in pieces; This was Madam Frances her Delicacy. How to make an Eels Pie, with Oysters. TAke the Eels, wash them and gut them, and dry them well in a cloath, to four good Eles allow a pint of Oysters well washed, season them with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, and large mace, put half a pound of butter into the Pie, as also half a lemon sliced, so bake it, when it is drawn, take the yolks of two Eggs, a couple of anchovies dissolved in a little white wine, with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, melt it and mix altogether and make a Lear of it, and put into the Pie. How to roast a Shoulder of Mutton with Oysters. YOur Oysters beign parboild, put to them some parsley, time, and winter savoury minced small, with the yolks of six eggs hard boiled and minced, a half-penny-loaf of grated bread, three or four yolks of eggs, so mingle all together with your hands, your Shoulder of Mutton being spitted, lay it upon the dresser and make holes with a sticking knife, in it( you may cut the holes as wide as you think convenient) put in your Oysters with the herbs and ingredients after them, about thirty Oysters will be enough; let it roast indifferent long, take the rest of a quart and put them into the deep dish, with claret wine, two or three onions, in halves, a couple of minced anchovies, put all this under your Mutton in the pan, so save your gravie, and when your meat is ready put your sauce upon a heap of coals, put to it the yolk of an egg beaten, a grated nutmeg and sweet butter, dish the Shoulder of Mutton, and pour this thick lear of Oysters all over it, and garnish it with barbaries and lemons. How to piekle up Cucumbers. TAke young Gerkins, and wipe them clean, take the seeds of dill and fennel, large mace, beaten pepper and salt, season the beer vinegar very well with salt, lay a layer of Cucumbers, and sprinkle between every row of Cucumbers, your seeds and seasoning; When the pot is almost full with Cucumbers, fill it up to the brim with beer vinegar, and keep it close covered; If you like broom buds rather, they are to be pickled only with water and salt, and shut close as before; But I may add( to put the Cariors nose out of joint) that onions and water were the chief Court sauce, and shall hence forth be exalted and dignified by the name of the Protectors Hogo. How to make a fresh Cheese. I Have mentioned before her making of Butter, I shall now give you an Experiment of her making of fresh Cheese. Take some new milk or cream, and a race of cinnamon, scald it, then take it off the fire, sweeten it with fine sugar, then take a spoonful of rennet to two quarts of milk, set it by and keep it close covered, and so let it stand, when the cheese comes, strew a little fine sugar, and grated nutmeg, and serve it in with sippits, sops in Sack or Muscadine; which at this season of the year, was one of the extempore entertainments of this rustical Lady. To roast a Lamb, or Kid. TRuss your Lamb or Kid, pricking the head backward over the shoulder, laying it down, set it and lard it with Bacon, and draw it with time, and a little lemon peel, then make a pudding with a little grated bread, a handful of sweet herbs, a handful of beef suet, put in about a handful of flower, and a little saffage with time, made mince meat, season it with cloves, mace, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, and salt, make it up into a tender body, with two or three eggs, and a little bran, stuff it into the belly of the Lamb, and Kid, put some sauce of Veal or Lamb over it, so prick it up the belly, roast the Lamb and Kid, and when it is enough, serve it up with Venison sauce. To roast Venison. THis is the same common way with roasting a Hogs harslet, and merely devised, for to take off by its variety the nauseousness of this meat, which was in abundance at their Table, as shall further be manifested. Take the biggest part of the haunch of Venison, and cut it in thin collops, hack it with your knife, as you do the like to Veal, then lard it very thick, with a small larding pin, then take a handful of parsley and spinach, good store o● time, a little Rosemary, wintersavoury and sweet marjorum, mince it exceeding small, with a little beef-suet, so put it in the dish with your Venison; put to it some beaten cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, with a pretty quantity of salt, the yolks of half a dozen of eggs or more, mingle it up altogether with your hands, then spit your colops on a small spit or long broaches made with sticks, you must spit them so by doubling of them or bringing in the ends, that they may not hang too long, but equal; when they are all spitted, put your herbs amongst them and tie them together with a pack-thread; as they roast put a dish under them with claret wine; when they are almost done, take your dish and set it on the coals, put grated bread, beaten cinnamon, vinegar and sugar to the wine, with a ladleful of drawn butter, dish up your Venison, and put on this lear, but very thin over it, and so serve it. How to boil a haunch of Venison. THis was a truly Royal and constant dish in its season at Court, when it was so really, and therefore out of curiosity and state was served up to her Table during the season; it is more extraordinary then any of the former, but since her times destroyed the game, yet cheapned and aviled the Venison, and made it every ones meat; which sordid example yet prevails among some proprietors of parks: I will set down this Direction. First, stuff your Venison with a handful of sweet herbs and parsley minced, with a little beefsuet, and yolks of eggs boiled hard, season yourstuffing with pepper, nutmeg, ginger and salt, put your haunch of Venison a boiling, being powdered before, then boil up three or four colly-flowers in strong broth, & a little milk; when they are boiled, put them forth into a pipkin, add to them drawn butter, and keep them warm by the fire, then boil up two or three handfuls of spinach in the same liquour, when it is boiled up, pour out part of your broth, and put in a little vinegar, a ladleful of sweet butter, and a grated nutmeg, your dish being ready with sippets in the bottom, put on the spinach round towards your dish side, then take up the Venison being boiled, and put it in the middle of your dish, and put in your colly-flowers all over it, pour on your sweet butter over your colly-flowers, and garnish it with barberries, and the brims of the dish with some green parsley minced; cabbage is as good done in the same manner as colly-flowers. How to back a Venison-Pasty. THis is called the King of dainties, which Oliver stolen by retail,( as he did a more real Regality) many years before, and shared this sovereign delicacy among his Complices, but now more then bold Rebin Hood, he was Lord and avowed Master of the Game and therefore that his fellow Dear stealers may know how to dress their prey a la mode Cromwellian, take this Prescription, for to other persons it will be of no use: when you have powdered your haunch of Venison, or the sides of it, by taking away all the bones and sinews, and the skin or fat, season it with pepper and salt only, beat it with your rolling-pin, and proportion it for the pastry, by taking away from one part and adding to another; your paste being made with a perk of fine flower, and about three pound of butter, and a dozen eggs, work it up with could water into as stiff a paste as you can, drive it forth for your pastry, let it be as thick as a mans thumb, roll It up upon a rolling-pin, and put under it a couple of sheets of cap-paper well flowered, then your white being already minced and beaten with water, proportion it upon the pastry, to the breadth and length of the Venison, so lay you Venison in the said white, wash it round with your feather, and put on a border; season your Venison at the top, and turn over your other leaf of paste, so close up your pastry, then drive out another border for garnishing the sides up to the top of the pastry, so close it up together by the rolling-pin, by rolling it up and down by the sides and ends; and when you have flourished your garnishing, and edged your pastry, vent it at the top, set it into the Oven, and after four or five hours baking, at least, draw it. This will serve, abating the time, for any other meats baking, for beef or mutton, and may be applied, which is the main design of this discovery, to vulgar use. I must omit Her manner of collering of Venison, because not practicable among mean people. To boil any usual joint of Meat. CUt any of them in such large pieces as you usually do a neck of mutton, as that two or three of them may serve in a dish, and put them into a pot, with so much water as will cover them; if you have a line of mutton( the suet taken from it) or a neck of veal, you may take ten sprigs of winter-savoury, and as much of time, adding to them twelve great onions, if they are small, take the more, grace to them half a penny loaf, with half an ounce of cloves and mace, and one handful of spinach, a little salt and parsley( if in the Spring or Summer, otherwise capers and samphiere) let it boil moderately, until it be half consumed; when you take it off, add a little vinegar and sweet burter, but you must not let your spinach and parsley have above a quarter of an hours boiling. To bake Steaks the French way. SEason the Steaks with pepper, nutmeg and salt lightly, and set them by, then take a piece of the leanest of a leg of mutton and mince it small with some beef-suet, and a few sweet herbs, as tops of time and penny-royal, grated break, yolks of eggs, sweet cream, raisins of the sun, &c. work all these together, and make it into little balls or puddings, put them( into a deep round pie) on the Steaks, then put to them some butter, and sprinkle it with verjuice, close it up and bake it, when it is enough, cut it up and liquour it with the juice of two or three oranges or lemons. To bake a big. THis is an experiment practised by Her at Huntingdon Brewhouse, and is a singular and the only way of dressing a big. Take a good quantity of day, such as they stop barrels bungs with, and having moulded it, stick your big, and blood him well, and when he is warm, arm him like a Curassier, or one of Cromwels Iron-sides, hair, skin, and all( his intrai's drawn and belly sowed up again) with this prepared day, thick every where, then throw him below the stoak-hole under the Furnace, and there let him soak, turn him now and then, when the day is hardened, for twelve hours, he is then sufficiently baked; then take him and break off the day, which easily parts, and you will have a fine crispy coat, and all the juice of the big in your dish; remember but to put a few leaves of sage, and a little salt in the belly of it, and you need no other sauce. The like you may do with any fowle whatsoever, for the day will fetch off and consume the feathers. Another way according to Court fashion. FLay a small fat big, cut it in quarters, or in smaller pieces, season it with pepper, ginger and salt, lay it into a fit coffin, strip and mince small a handful of parsley, six sprigs of winter-savoury, strew it on the meat in the pie, and strew upon that the yolks of three or four hard eggs minced, and lay upon them five or six blades of mace, a handful of clusters of barberries, a handful of currants well washed and picked, a little sugar, half a pound of sweet butter or more, close your pie and set it in an Oven, as hot as for manchet, and in three hours it will be baked, draw it forth, and put in half a pint of sugar, being warmed upon the fire, pour it all over the meat, and put on the pie lid again, scrape on sugar, and serve it hot on the Table. To make a Fool. TAke two quarts of cream, set it over the fire and let it boil, then take the yolks of twelve eggs and beat them very well with three or four spoonfuls of could cream, and then strain the eggs in the skillet of the hot cream, stirring it all the time to keep it from burning, then set it on the fire, and let it boil a little while, but keep it still stirring for fear of burning, so then take it off, and let it stand and cool, then take two or three spoonfuls of sack, and put it in the dish, with four or five sippets, set the dish and sippets a drying, and when they be dry that they hang to the dish, sweeten the cream and pour it into the dish softly, because the sippets shall not rise up; this will make three dishes, when it is could it is fit to be eaten. To make an Artichoak-Pye. TAke the bottom of six Artichoaks, being boiled very tender, put them in a dish, and some vinegar over them, season them with ginger and sugar, a little mace whole, and put them in a coffin of paste: when you lay them in, lay some marrow and dates sliced, & a few raisins of the sun in the bottom, with good store of butter, when it is half baked, take a gill of sack, being boiled first with sugar, and a pill of orange, put it in the pie, and set it in the Oven again till you use it. To boil Flounders or Jacks after the best manner. TAke a pint of white wine, the tops of young time and rosemary, and a little whole mace, a little whole pepper seasoned with verjuice, salt, and a piece of sweet butter, and so serve it; you may do fish in the same liquour three or four times. To draw Butter, of only use in sauces. TAke the Butter and cut it into thin slices, put it into a dish, then put it upon the coals where it may melt leisurely, stir it often, and when it is melted, put in two or three spoonfuls of water or vinegar which you please, then stir it and beat it until it be thick, if the colour keep white it is good, but if it look yellow and curdly in boiling, it is nought, and not fit to be used to this purpose. To make puff-paste. BReak two eggs in three pints of flower, make it with could water, then roll it out pretty thick and square, then take so much butter as paste, and divide your butter in five places, that you may lay it on at five several times, roll your paste very broad, and take one part of the same butter in little pieces all over your paste, then throw a handful of flower slightly on, then fold up your paste, and beat it with a rolling-pin, so roll it out again; thus do several times, and then make it up. To make an excellent Jelly. TAke three gallons of fair water, boil in it a knuckle of veal, and two calves feet slit in two, with all the fat clean taken from between the claws, so let them boil to a very tender Jelly keeping it clean scummed, and the edges of the pot always wiped with a clean cloth, that none of the scum may boil in them, strain it from the meat, and let it stand all night, and the next morning take away the top and the bottom, and take to a quart of this Jelly half a pint of sherry sack, half an ounce of cinnamon, and as much sugar as will season it, six whites of eggs very well beaten; mingle all these together, then boil it half an hour, and let it run through your Jelly bag. Another manner to make a fresh Cheese presently. TAke the whites of six eggs, beat them very well, and ring in the juice of a good lemon to the whites, when the cream seetheth up, put in the whites and stir it about till it be turned, and then take it off and put it into a cheese through, and let the whey be drawn from it, then take the cured and pound it in a ston mortar, with a little rose-water and sugar, and put it into an earthen cullender, and so let it stand till you sand it to the Table, then put it into a dish, and put a little cream to it, and so serve it. To make a Cheese-cake the best way. TAke two gallons of new milk, put into it two spoonfuls and a half of runner, heat the milk little less then blood-warm, cover it close with a cloth, until you see the cheese be gathered, then with a secumming dish gently take out the whey, so when you have drained the cured as clean as you can, put the cured into a sieve, and let it drain very well there, then to two quarts of cured take a quart of thick cream, a pound of sweet butter, twelve eggs, a pound and a half of currants, a penny worth of cloves, nutmeg and mace beaten, half a pound of good sugar, a quarter of a pint of rose-water, so mingle it well together, and put it in puff-paste. Another way. PUt due quantity of rennet to three gallons of milk, that it it may be a tender cured, run it through a thin strainer, when it comes or gathereth, squeeze or press out the whey, as well as you can possible, put it into a deep basin, put to it about a pound of sweet butter melted, sixteen eggs, casting away half the whites, season it with beaten cinnamon, ginger, cloves, mace and nutmeg, some sugar sufficient to sweeten it, with some salt, eringo and citron minced, a handful of grated bread or naples biscuit, mix it all well together, if it be too stiff add a little sweet cream, let it not be too thin, so beat down the sides of your cakes; then make your cakes with melted butter, and warm your milk, with a handful of powdered sugar, roll out your paste, and jag out your pattern by a large round trencher and paper thereon, then put on the seasoned curds by spoonfuls, and turn up the sides of it in six or eight corners, bake them in a quick Oven, but not too hot. They will ask a quarter of an hours baking. To broil Oysters. TAke the biggest Oysters you can get, then take a little minced time, grated nutmeg, and grated bread, and a little salt, put this to the Oysters, then get some of the largest bottom shells and place them on the gridiron, and put two or three Oysters in each shell, then put some butter to them, and let them simmer on the fire till the liquour bubbles low, supplying it still with butter, when they are crisp, feed them with white wine, and a little of their own liquour, with a little grated bread, nutmeg and minced time, but as much only as to relish it, so let it boil up again, then add some drawn butter to thicken them, and dish them on a dish or plate, but if you have scollop shells it is the best way to broil them in. To broil Scollops. FIrst boil the Scollops, and then take them out of the shells and wash them, then slice them and season them with nutmeg, ginger and cinnamon, and put them into the bottom of your shells again, with a little butter, white wine and vinegar, and grated bread, let them be broiled on both sides; if they are sharp, they must have sugar added to them, for the fish is luscious and sweet naturally; there is therefore another proper way to broil them, with Oyster liquour and gravy, with dissolved anchovies, minced onions and time, with the juice of a lemon in it. To stew a dish of Trouts. LEt your frying-pan be very hot with clarified butter, then split them in two, and give them a sudden brown with a forcible heat, and let a stewing dish be ready prepared with gravy, oyster liquour, a little claret wine and vinegar, fry three or four sliced onions, and when they are brown, put them to the fish, with a handful of parsley fried green, a sliced nutmeg, two or three anchovies, and let it just boil up together, then dish up your Trouts upon sippets; notwithstanding the best way for crispness and sight of your fish, is to fry the split fish as Trout, Salmon Peel, and Salmon very crisp and brown; dish it up with the inside uppermost. To stew a Carp. TAke a living Carp and knock him on the head, open him in the belly take heed you break not the gull, pour in a little vinegar, and wash out all the blood, stir it about with your hand, then keep it safe, then have a pan or skillet on the fire, with so much white wine as will almost cover the fish; put to it an onion cut in the middle, a clove or less of garlic, a race of ginger shred, a nutmeg quartered, a faggot or bundle of sweet herbs, three or four anchovies, your Carp being cut out and rubed all over with salt, when the wine( if abated with a little water will do as well) doth boil, put the Carp in, and cover him close, and let him stew up for about a quarter of an hour, then put in the blood and vinegar with a little butter, so dish up the Carp, and let the spawn, milt and revet be laid upon it, the liquour that boiled him, with the butter, is the best sauce, and is to be eaten as broth; garnish the dish with lemons and grated broad. To make a Warden or Pear pie. BAke your Wardens or Pears in an Oven, with a little water and good quantity of sugar, let your pot be covered with a piece of doughty, let them not be fully baked by a quarter of an hour, when they are could make a high coffin, and put them in whole, adding to them some cloves, whole cinnamon, sugar with some of the liquour they were closed in, so bake it. To make a Quince pie. CUt your Quinces from the core, and fill your pie, lay over it sliced oringado, and pour into it the syrup of barberries, mulberries, oringado, and put on good store of sugar, with two or three sticks of cinnamon, so close and prick it, but give it as little vent as you can; you may also bake them whole, after you have cored them with your coring iron and and pared them very thin, when they are placed in your pie, fill the vacant place where your core was taken out, with the syrup of orangado, they ought to have as much sugar as their weight, but not if you have store of sweet syrup. To make a pie with Pippins. YOu must core and pare your Pippins, and when your coffin is made, take a handful of sliced quinces and strew over the bottom thereof, then place in your pippins, and fill the core holes with the syrup of quinces, and put into every one a piece of oringado, so pour on the syrup of quinces over the apple with sugar, and close it; these pies will ask good soaking, especially the quince pie. To make a double Tart. TAke some codlings tenderly boiled and peel them, cut them in halves, fill your Tart, put into a quarter of a hundred of 〈◇〉 lings a pound and a half of sugar, a few cloves, and a little cinnamon, close up the coffin and bake it; when it comes out of the Oven, take a quart of cream, six eggs, a quartern of sugar and a sliced nutmeg, beat all these well together, pour them into the Tart, then set your Tart in the Oven for half a quarter of an hour, when it comes out, cut off the lay and having a lid cut in flowers ready, lay it on, and garnish it with preserves of damsons, resberries, apricots and cherries, and place a preserved quince in the middle, and strew it with sugar biscuits. How to make an Almond Tart. RAise an excellent good past with six corners, an inch deep, take some blancht Almonds very finely beaten with rose-water, take a pound of sugar to a pound of Almonds, some grated nusmeg, a little cream, with strained spinach as much as will colour the Almonds green, so bake it with a gentle heat in an Oven not shutting the lid, draw it, and stick it with candid Orange and Citron, and read and white muscadine. To make white Quince Cakes. FIrst clarify the sugar with the white of an egg, but put not so much water to it as you do for Marmalade; before you clarify it, keep out almost a quarter of the sugar, let your Quinces be scalded, and let them be chopped in small pieces before you put it into the syrup, then make it boil as fast as you can, and when you have scummed it, and you think it be half boiled, then jamire it, and let the other part of your sugar be ready candy'd to a hard candy, and so put them together, letting it boil but a very little after the candy is put to it, then put in a little Musk, and so lay it out before it be could. To make read Quince Cakes. BAke them in an Oven with some of their own juice, their own coars being cut or bruised and put to them, then weigh some of this juice with some of the Quince, being cut into small pieces taking their weight in sugar, and with the Quince, some pretty quantity of juice of Barberies, being baked or stewed in a pot; when you have taken their weight in sugar, you must put the weighed Quince, and above three quarters of the sugar together, and put to it some little quantity of water as you shall see cause, but make not the syrup too thin; and when you have put all this together, cover it, and set it to the fire, keep it covered, and skimme it as much as you can; when it is half boiled, then fimmer it; let the other part of sugar have no more water put to it, then well wet the sugar, and so let it be boiled to a very hard candy, and when you think they be boiled enough, then lay them out before they be could. To make clear Cakes of Quince. YOu must prepare the Quinces and Barberies as before, and then take the clearest syrup, and let it stand on the coals two or three hours, then take the weight of it in sugar, and put near half the sugar to the juice, and so let them boil a little on the fire, and then candy the rest of the sugar very hard, and so put them together, stirring it while it is almost could, and so put it into glasses. To Preserve Quinces white. TAke to every pound of Quince, a pound an a quarter of sugar, clarify this sugar with the white of an egg, coat your Quinces but not too much, and then put this sugar, and water, and Quince, being raw, together, and so make them boil so fast as you can see no Quince, but forget not to turn them, and take off what skimme you can, keep them boiling thus fast, till you think they be ENOUGH. AND so I have run through the whole and more usual fare of her private Table, observing no method therein, because I had them in this form from a near servant of hers? As for Fish and Flesh days, there was no observation of them, all dayes being alike to the Caterer and Purveyour, and those that eat at her Tables, as was hinted before. But this habit of Diet, not proving effectual to the prolongation of Olivers life, by and with which this Court subsisted, and was the onely ligament of that riffraff Society; a Voyder was the next service; for though there were some faint and slight shows of House-keeping, which the standing Court Officers maintained with their credit( and injury of several persons, who trusted upon the greatness of the deceased Usurper) to keep their places warm, and themselves in action; yet Mrs. cromwell, wisely and timely withdrew her stake, and suffered her Son Ricardo, to run the resque of the old and new debt upon his own Score. And upon his account, merely was that costly solemnity of Olivers Funerals advised, on purpose to bankrupt him: the pomp bestowed on the dead, proving the ruin and disgrace of the living; so that all things went backward with him with double the place they flowed upon his Father, and in the same manner; for whereas his Father was wont to call in the Guards, to eat the relics of his Victuals, now they rushed in, and perforce took the meat off his Table, with a demand of their Pay and Arrears, and this with so much insolence, that Mrs. cromwell, the afflicted Mother of this Unfortunatus, could not forbear in anger to tell her Son Fleetwood, That he had brought his hogs to a fair Market: nor is all that Droll, which is mentioned of her in a Play, called The Rump, or mirror of the Times. And now is it time to take leave of this good housewife ere while sojourning with her Son Henry, and her Daughter Francis, inter married to Sir William Russels Son, so that there is a across match betwixt the Families; Henry having married his Daughter before, but she is now at Hurley in Hampshire, with her Daughter in Law Richard Cromwels wife, while he absents himself for his Debts, which the kind Rump undertook for to pay in consideration, and as the value of his resigning the Government: And this is the latest Intelligence of those illustrious Bubbles and Pageants of fortune, which once filled the world with admiration and discourse, but are now become the contempt and by-word of the meanest of the people, who mingle their curses with their scorn, and assist their lingering envious destiny, with all the dicteries and reproaches, which the arrogance and guilt of their Usurpation, can suggest to the passions of enraged minds. And this Essay and quelque choose is added to help their Digestion. Sic erit Aeternum Pontiliana, Vale. FINIS.