A Discourse Of the DUKEDOM of MODENA. CONTAINING The 

Origine,  
Antiquity,  
Government,  
Manners, and  
Qualities   Of the People. As also, The Temperature of the CLIMATE, WITH The Nature and Fertility of the SOIL.  
LONDON: Printed by J. C. for William Crook, at the Green Dragon without Temple-bar. 1674.   

A DISCOURSE Of the Dukedom of Modena.  
ANTIquITY was so ignorant, as to divide the whole World into two parts only, viz. ASIA and EUROPE; comprehending Africa under ASIA, as Eratosthenes an Author of as great esteem as antiquity; some under EUROPE, as Isocrates in his Panegyrique, and others mentioned in Sallust, Lucan, and S. Austin de civitate Dei: but the most celebrated Division was into three parts; EUROPE, ASIA, and AFRICA or Libya; and this was approved both by ancient and modern Authors. So that it appears, Cosmography was unacquainted with any other Division of the Universe, till that the knowing Genoveses, about two Centuries ago, did furnish it with a Fourth, by his discovery of AMERICA, the most usual, but improper name: for Columbus, after his ineffectual addresses to the States of Genova, Anno 1486, and to Henry the 7th of England, and their absolute refusal; he spun out six years in patiented attendance at the Court of Castille, where at last he was furnished out with three Vessels more proper for Discovery than Conquest. And thus he first found it out, and led the way to the rest. But Americus Vesputius the Florentine, a man old in years, but young in courage, employed therein by Emanuel King of Portugal, surveyed a great part of the Continent by the light he had from Columbus the first Discoverer; yet the Florentine proved the Godfather, and called it AMERICA, to perpetuate his own Name, and eternize his Memory. John Cabot a Venetian, in behalf of Henry the 7th, discovered all the North-east coast thereof, and touched many places Americus ne'er saw. And although these three Italians were by three several Monarches employed to find out this Fourth part of the World, it is so vast a Continent, that the Southern part is to this day altogether unknown; and usually in our Planispheres and Maps called Terra Australis incognita.  
EUROPE as to its Magnitude, (in the opinion of Cosmographers, who run all in the same current or stream) is inferior to the other three; though to none of them, if you consider the moderate and wholesome Temperature of the Air, together with the prodigious fertility of its Soil; the two once-famous Roman and Greek Monarchies; the Study and Improvement of Arts both Liberal and Mechanical; the Affluence of all things that conduce either to the Support or Pleasure of Man; or above all, the Purity and Sincerity of the Christian Religion universally professed in all the Dominions thereof; besides the well-regulated Government of their Realms, their Kings being Absolute Monarches, but not Arbitrary Tyrants; and the men happy Subjects, not miserable Slaves; which keeps us from that Tyranny, Slavery, Injustice, frequent Bribery, Beggary and Barbarism, which like an Inundation hath overflown all the Asiatic, African, and American parts, when they groaned under the Yoke of their Idolatrous and Sanguinary Princes and Governors. Par nihil Europe, nihil est secundum.  
ITALY is is a Region, that, among many other advantageous Eulogies, is on all hands held to be the Eden of Europe, the Garden or Paradise of this Northwest part of the World. This Peninsula or Demi-Island, formerly the absolute and redoubted Empress of the major part of the then-known habitable World, yet may compare, as now it is, nay exceed the most of the other Kingdoms of Asia, Africa, or America. 'Tis situate in a most Temperate Clime; and for the amoenity of its Cities, the commodiousness for Commerce and Negotiations, the deliciousness of its Fountains and Aqueducts, the fertility of its well-cultivated Fields, insomuch that in some places they have three Harvests in one year; the Uniformity and Stateliness of Fabriques, and the rare Architecture and rich Furniture and Ornaments of its Temples, and many other Delicacies to gratify the gusto as to Fruits and rare Wines, with other Varieties too numerous to be crowded into the narrow confines of our intended Discourse.  
And in this Paradise or Garden of Europe there is a small Terroir, or pleasant spot of ground, known by the name of MODENA; where we will take the fresco for some time, and give you our Sentiments upon a strict Survey of what shall occur as observable during this our Promenade; and thereupon make some remarks, which will prove the most useful Materials, and most conducive to the compliment of this our present Essay.  
MODENA is the Modern appellation; but it is better known to the Ancients by the name of Mutina; as Livy, Cicero, Pliny, etc. Some read it Motina; as Antoninus and Dio: Strabo and Ptolemy 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 commonly Modena, à movendo (saith Merula in his Cosmography) ut quidam insulse conjiciunt, eo quòd Diluvio quondam tota fuerit submersa, qua de re dignus Autore suo Versiculus.  Mutina submersa fuit olim gurgitis unda. 
Called Modena (a foolish conceit) because it was once drowned with a Deluge. The more probable Conjecture is, that it was named à movendo, because it is at this day somewhat removed from the situation of the ancient City, which the Longobards did totally ruinated and demolish.  
The City of Mutina, 
The Dukedom of Modena at present contains the City of Modena and Reggio, with the Lands and Territories thereunto adjoining. They are both pleasantly situated in that part of Lombardy called Cispadana, or as in their own Dialect vulgarly. Diqua del Po, on this side of the river Po.  now MODENA, was first erected by the Etrurians or Tusci, now called Toscans a people of Italy; and they waging War with the Galli Boii, were expelled thence by them, who after that possessed it; and they being profligate by the Victorious Arm of the Roman Conquerors, it was by them made a Colony, together with Parma, in the 570 or 571 year after the Building of Rome, as Livy and other Historians affirm, (Quintus Fabius Labio and Marcus Claudius being at that time Consuls) who in several places make very honourable mention of it; an infallible testimony that it was both rich and potent: which truth is more at large confirmed by the various Inscriptions and ancient Marbles that are yet everywhere extant, and exposed to the view of all Travellers.  
This City was sufficiently illustrated and made famous in those times, for the first Battle between Antony and C. Octavianus Caesar, who was then but a Stripling or Tyro in War, and not above Eighteen years, and yet made Head of a new League against Antonius, whom the Senate looked upon with an ill eye, as a common and dangerous Enemy. This happened in the year 711, when Antonius besieged C. Brutus in this City; but by the assistance of Caesar Octavianus he gained the Victory. The managing of the whole War was left to Hirtius and Pansa, at that time Consuls. The fortune of the day was so well managed on both sides, that Antony lost the Field, and the Consuls their Lives; Caesar Octavianus remaining absolute Commander of a puissant and numerous Army, into whose favour he by his dexterity so cunningly insinuated himself, and made so good improvement of his Talon, and such advantage of the opportunity, that this proved the Basis and Foundation of his future Grandeur. But afterwards, when the said C. Octavianus, M. Antonius, and M. Aemilius Lepidus entered into the Society of the Triumvirate, thereupon the City had very course usage, and was exposed to very great Slaughter, by Constantine the Great, because that it favoured Maxentius: but the Victory being once obtained, it was restored, and the Christians became possessed of it; it was dignified with an Episcopal Seat, and Geminianus a Learned man made Bishop thereof. After this, it was reduced to ashes by the Inundation of the Goths and Lombard's, a furious and barbarous people, as S. Ambrose relates the Story, affirming that he saw Modena with the rest of the adjacent places upon the Via Aemilia, suffer a total devastation. But these Barbarians were afterwards expulsed by the Emperor Charles the Great, who established his son Pepin King of Italy; and then the Citizens of Modena, whose names were engraven on the gates, quitting their sad but secure Retirements, whither they confined themselves during the distractions and turmoils that Italy then laboured under, took counsel how to rebuild this City: and in process of time they erected it in that form as now it appears in. They being now their own Masters, free from the Vassalage of an insulting Enemy, and solely at their own disposal, and having the Jurisdiction within themselves, they only retained the Roman name; but yet were not so much at rest, but they had several Skirmishes with their Neighbours, especially the people of Bologna, about the Limits and Bounds of their Country.  
During the Distractions and Troubles of Italy between the Emperor and the Popes, Guido the Pope's Legate, and then Bishop thereof, consigned it over to Azo one of the House of Este, Lord of Ferrara, Anno 1304, the Pope consenting to it, upon the annual payment of the Tribute of 10000 Crowns. Since which time it hath been for the most part in the power of that House; Bersius Marquis of Ferrara being created Duke of Mutina by the Emperor Frederick the third. Anno 1312, she had the Family of the Mirandulae her Masters, by the Authority of the Emperor, anno 1319. the Bonacelsii Tyrants of Mantua being compelled thereunto by the help and assistance of the Guelphi. Anno 1331, the Pii governed her, at first under the name of Captains, afterwards of Princes. Furthermore, anno 1336, the Atestini or Family d'Esteé succeeded them, who were Marquesses of Ferrara, by the Pope's leave and permission; and they governed it till the year 1510, when Pope Julius 11 took the City, and gave it to Maximilian 1, Emperor, by whom it was afterwards, anno 1514, hypothequed to Pope Leo the tenth, for 10000 Crowns. Lastly, in the year 1527, when Clement the Pope was besieged by the lmperialists, it was retaken by the Victorious Arms of the Atestini, or Family of Esté, by whom it was increased with Buildings, Walls, and fenced with Ditches; and grew up by degrees to the present splendour, state and grandeur.  
Thus far the ancient Authors, particularly Livy; and the modern also, as Blondus Corius, Platina, Sabellicus, Volaterranus, and Leandro; besides what we find in the Annals of the City, and Bologna likewise.  
MODENA is marshaled by Pliny in the eighth Region of Italy, and called by Ptolemy a City of Gallia Togata; being washed by the Rivulet or Brook Formigo. It was heretofore situated somewhat higher towards the Mountains than now it is at present, as appears by the ruins of some antiquated edifices standing somewhat distant from the ancient Modena, as Leandro intimates more at large.  
The City is noble and splendid, of an orbicular form, seated in a Plain not far from the Apennineses, which are called the Back, or rather Backbone of Italy, because, like the Spina in the body, they divide Italy into two parts or sides, West or North. It is beautified with a Cathedral Church, the doors whereof are worthy admiration for many things, but particularly for the famous Marble-statues of Adam and Eve. It flourisheth with the dignity of an Episcopacy, which is subject to the Archbishop of Bologna; and is also adorned with an Academy, in which Azo the Civilian taught the Imperial Law. It is a pleasant Soil, abounding with Fruits and Grains of all sorts, and the best Wine, called Vinum Tribianum. This City was greatly amplified by Alphonso the second, Duke of Esté. 'Tis populous, and the inhabitants are noble and ingenuous, and better natured than most of Italy; they being quick in their resolutions, easy to be pacified when injured, debonnair and courteous in their entertainment and treating of strangers. Though they are ill and foolishly treated by some over-censorious Italians, when injuriously nickname it Modena lapazza, Foolish Modena; it being a malicious and undeserved reflection upon that people. The females are of a meek and patiented temper, neither too amorous, nor too coy; too courtly, nor too peevish; as they are in other places, for the generality: They are very much applauded also by Mr. Warcup, in his History of Venice, where he enumerates the several Cities of Italy in Verse, translated out of the Italian; and concludes thus:  
Foligno's candied streets most pleasant are,  
The Ladies in Fano so smooth and fair,  
That said they are from heaven sent to be:  
But Modena more happy is than she.  
Modena hath been the Nursery of many famous and learned men; some whereof are taken notice of by Nicolaus Leorinus Silesius, a learned and elegant Poet, in his Catalogue of Learned men that flourished in his Age.  
Vrbs Venetum Bembos loquitur Balbosque Poetas,  
Naugeriosque suos;  
Mantua Virgilii, Capilupos numine plenos  
Castiliosque Deuces;  
At Molsas Mutina & Sadoletoes jactat alumnos,  
Cortesiosque suas, etc.  
Modena has produced these eminent persons:  
Hercules Rangonus. James Sadolet a man of exquisite Learning, Gregory Cortesius of the Order of Benedictines, Thomas Badias' of the Fraternity of Praedicants, who were elected Cardinals by Pope Paul the third. She is also ennobled by Charles Sigonius a most learned man, and an eminent Historian. She is the Mistress of Vgo Rangonus Praesul of Reggio, of Francis Maria Molza, John Franciscus Furnius. It hath bred up some that were very much renowned in War; as Nicolas and Gerard Rangonus, Hannibal and Guido both sons of Nicolas. There are many Noble Families in the Dominions of the Duke; as the Pii, the Mirandulani, Bonacelsii, etc. of which we shall speak more at large in the conclusion. But above all, the Family d'Esté who are now Lords of it; the City being very much ennobled and enriched by the constant residence of the Duke. Nor is she without her Citadel, wherein according to credible report there are stored up Arms for Forty thousand men at least: a very considerable business!  
The next thing that falls under our consideration and description, is the City of Reggio in this Dukedom of Modena. Aemilia dein via pergenti, dextra Seciae ripa omissa Regium Lepidi occurrit, ripae Crustuli laevae adpositum, saith Merula in his Cosmography. As to its name, 'tis called by Tully in his Epistle to Cassius and others Regium Lepidi: by Tacitus, Regium Lepidum: by Strabo, l. 5. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉. by Ptolemy, 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉. by Antoninus, Regium only, and at this day, 'tis commonly known by the name of Reggio. In this place heretofore there was Forum Lepidi, as Festus observes. The inhabitants are called Regienses, from Lepidus in Pliny; as also Regini, à Regio Julio.  
Nor hath Heaven been more propitious to this City, or Fortune more favourable than to Modena: for it hath run almost the same risk and tasted of the same misery and misfortune. It was at first made a Roman Colony, as well as Modena; M. Aemilius Lepidus who gave it a name, T. Ebusius Carus, and L. Quinctius Crispinus, being then Triumvirs. It was destroyed by the Goths, when they made incursions into, and embarassed all Italy, under Alarico their King: the Citizens were constrained, by reason of the fury of an enraged and barbarous enemy, to abandon it, and flee to more secure retirements and places, till the Lombard's were conquered and beaten out of Italy by Charles the Great, about the year 800; at what time by degrees the Citizens returned to their desolate City, and began to restore, repair, and immure it with a strong Wall. It was governed by itself for some time in liberty, after the manner of the other Cities in Italy; and this freedom and liberty continued till the year 1286, and then it came under the Dominion of Earls and Princes; and 'twas first under the command of the Earls of Canosse, than those of Esté, the Caesars, the Kings of France; than it was subject to the Papal Sea, and had also the Foliani, Scaligers, Gonzagae, and Ottobuoni for its Lords. So Blondus, Antoninus, Platina, and Sabellicus. So far Morula. Heylin saith, When they were under the command of the Earls of Canosse, they grew weary of that Yoke, and recovered their Liberty; which being unable to maintain in those bustling times, they gave themselves to Obizo the father of Azo, anno 1292. and after that, in the year 1326, to the Sea of Rome. Passing thorough many hands, it was at last sold for 60000 Ducats to the Visconti Lords of Milan, an. 1370; and in the end recovered by the House of Esté, anno 1409, and gave the Title of a Duke to Borsius Marquis of Ferrara, whom Frederick the 3. made Duke of Modena and Reggio, anno 1452. The Successors of Borsius held the Estate together, till the death of Alphonso the first Duke, who dying without lawful issue, anno 1592., left his Estate to Caesar d'Esté his Nephew by a natural son, called Alphonso also; between whom and Pope Clement the 8, a War was threatened for the whole; but at last comprimised upon these Conditions: That the Church of Rome should have Ferrara, with all the Lands and Territories appertaining to it, as an Estate anciently held of that Sea: And that Modena and Reggio being Imperial Feifs, should remain to Caesar, but to be held in Fee of the Papal Throne: Duke Caesar to have leave to carry away all his moveables, to sell such of his Lands as were not of the ancient Demain of the Dukedom; and to have one half of the Ordnance and Artillery. By which Agreement, the Cities of Modena and Reggio became a new-erected State, distinct and independent of any other, each City being well Fortified, Garisoned, and furnished with Ordnance for defence thereof. But what they yield unto the Prince in the way of Revenue, and what Force he is able to raise out of his Estate, I cannot positively determine: but by the Tribute formerly paid unto the Popes for the City of Mutina, (now Modena) and the rich Territories of both Towns, and the great Revenues of the Dukes of Ferrara; I conceive they cannot yield less than 100000 Crowns of yearly Income. Thus far Heylin in his Cosmography.  
Reggio (saith Merula) Vrbs est lauta, nobilis, frequens; solo sita valde fertili; loco pulchro, amoeno, planeque regio, unde illi quorundam judicio nomen. This City is built on the Via Aemilia, and named Regium Lepidi by Strabo, Cicero, Cornelius Tacitus, and other Authors. By whom it was built, is not certainly known; though 'tis reported by some to be erected by the Toscans, who being expulsed, as Livy and Polybius affirm, the Gauls or French possessed it; and afterwards it was made a Colony by M. Aemilius Lepidus, one of the Triumvirs; T. Ebutius Carus, and L. Quinctius Crispinus, being the other two, as is before mentioned. Some contend that Marius Lepidus one of the said Triumvirate, who divided the Roman Empire, was its Founder; others that it was built long before his time, but by him made a Colony.  
'Tis a noble, splendid, and well-peopled City, abounding with all things: it hath fair and spacious streets, with sumptuous structures; as the magnificent Church of S. Prospero Bishop of this City, where his corpse is devoutly kept; having a very plentiful Revenue, and being adorned with excellent Portraitures, but particularly with some Pieces drawn by the famous Correggio, worthy of eternal Fame. In the walls of the Orchard of the R. R. P. P. de Servi, was not long since discovered an Image of the holy Virgin, held in great esteem there for its Miracles, with uncommon and superstitious (I had almost said idolatrous) veneration.  
Reggio abounds with all necessaries for the use of man; the Soil is extraordinary fertile of all manner of Grain, and all sorts of Fruits. White Wines it hath good store, and a sort of Wine called Vinum Helvolum, of its colour, being between a red and white. 'Tis very much famed and taken notice of, for the rare art of making Spurs, the best in Italy; and other Mechanical pieces in Ivory, politely and exactly done according to art.  
The Reggians are a people very courteous and affable, of a good mein and presence, of present wit, and quick apprehension, vivacious and sprightly, and to be moulded and brought to any great or august employment. The Women, as those of Modena, are very mild, and the finest in all Italy.  
It is adorn d with a Bishopric subject to the same Archbishop as Modena; and hath brought forth many famous men, who have rendered it very illustrious; as D. Maximus one of its Bishops, Guido Sagaranus, Philip Casolus, James Columbus, Charles Ruinus, Francis Belius, Julius Scarlatinus, famous Lawyers: Sebastianus Carradus, profoundly learned in the Greek and Latin Tongues; and Bartholomew Crottus, a great Poet of his time. It contains many noble Families; as the Signori Canossae, Manfredi, Fogliani, and Sessi, who possess great Lordships there, and have very noble and large Castles for their Apartments or Manor-houses.  
Now I have given you an account-of these two capital Cities of the great Dukedom of Modena: I will cast my eye with a retrospect upon some other famous Castles, Towns and Places within their Territories, and acquaint you with some passages and rarities that may merit the observation, and gratify the curiosity of the diligent and industrious Enquirer, that will make it his business to pry into them.  
On the left side of the River Po, saith my Author, there stands the Arx Stellata, a Castle fabriqued by Nicolas 3. of the House of Esté, who was Marquis of Ferrara: but the greatest part of it was in process of time overthrown by the Legions of Pope Julius the 11, and the Venetians. And upon the Bank of the River Po is seen a new-built Town called Rovero, a neat and large place.  
Towards the South of Modena, under the Apennineses, stand Formagine, Spezzano; and ten miles off, Sassulo, a Noble and civil place, with a sumptuous Castle of the Family of the Pii, watered by the River Secchia, where is also a fair Church dedicated to the blessed Virgin.  
About half a mile short of Sassulo, is the Temple of the Saint Maria Sassutina, so called from the Castle Sassulo situated at the very foot of the Apennine hills or mountains on the left side of the banks of Secchia.  
Upon these Mountains stand many other Villages and Hamlets, and are plainly visible in the Eastern part of Modena.  
These Castles were formerly subject to several Lords, and particularly to them of Monte, who were very powerful at that time in these Countries, and possessed all the Places in the Graffignana, which confines on Bologna; and among the rest, Sestola and Fanano. Westward, the Alps of San Pellegrine appear to the view; and the Castle Acquario, famous for its Baths, and their Medicinal waters; and from thence 'tis probably conjectured it takes its denomination. Then turning to the South, runs the Tyrrhene Sea, somewhat near Bologna. On the banks of the River Panaro stand Vetro and Spilimberto, formerly called Spinum Lamberti, two Castles belonging to the Signori Rangoni. Four miles distant from thence you find Vignola, a Town dignified with a Marquisate, subject to the Signori Buoncompagni, which borders upon the Bolognian Territories.  
Towards the North is situated the most Noble Castle, or rather Imperial City, called Carpi; which may deservedly come in competition with many Cities, if you consider the populousness or ingenuity of the People, and the superfluity of all necessaries. It is honoured with the title of a Principality, and was for many years enjoyed by the Signori Pii; but at this day it is under the Duke of Modena.  
Then there is to be seen the ample, noble, and opulent Monastery of S. Benedict Podolironus, built by Boniface the father of Countess Mathilde, and enlarged by the said Countess, whose Sepulchre is there likewise. And Guardistallo, famous for two Councils held there, one under Pope Vrban the 8, and the other under Paschal the 11: witness Platina in the History of their Lives, and Blondus in his fourteenth Book of Historical Relations.  
On the Banks of the River Po, somewhat farther, Brescello fronts you, called Brixillum by Pliny, in his third Book; and Plutarch, in the Life of Otho the Emperor: by Ptolemy, 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and by Tacitus, Suetonius, Antoninus, and Paulus Diaconus. It was formerly a City, saith Leander, and taken by Anthare King of the Lombard's, who dismantled and levelled the walls with the ground, according to Paulus Diaconus in his Continuation of Eutropius, l. 28. and Blondus in the 8 Book of his History.  
On the left hand of the banks of the River Lenza stands Tanedo, named by Livy in many places, and Pliny (who affirms that there was a man there 120 years old) Tannetum; by Polybius, Tanetus; by Ptolemy, 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and hence it is that Pliny calls the people Tanetani. It was subverted by Cese King of the Lombard's, saith Paulus Diaconus; was restored, and reduced to the form that now it appears in, being at present a Village or Hamlet.  
In the Eastern part of Modena is a Channel, upon which you may pass by Boat 8 miles at length, till you arrive at Finale: then going on the River Panaro, where the Channel disembarques itself into that River, is seen Buon Porto, and San Felice, much commended for generous Wines. Along the Aemilian way, three miles from Modena, runs the River Panaro, near which are the confines of the Modonesi and Bolognesi, where Claudius the Consul coping with his enemies, took 15000 Prisoners, and 700 Ligurians. Nay farther, in this very place Rotari King of the Lombard's routed the Roman Army, with the slaughter of 7000 Soldiers. Here also the Forces of the Modonesi being discomfited by the Bolognesis, Euzo King of Sardegna, the son of Erderick the second, was taken Prisoner. On the other side of Panaro is Novantola, with a Monastery famous both for its antiquity as well as stateliness, founded by Anselmo, nearly related to Astolfo King of the Lombard's, who was a redoubted Captain in their Army.  
Near the Aemilian way, between Bologna and Novantola, stands Santa Agata, a Castle erected by Barbarossa the Emperor; and Crevalcuore, formerly known by the name of Allegracuore, where the Army of Bernabo Visconte Lord of Milan was defeated and put to the Rout.  
Next you go to San Giovanni, a Country very plentiful of Wheat and other Grain. On the left side of Via Aemilia stand Castiglione and Castelfranco, 15 miles off of Bologna; where some few years passed there was raised a most impregnable Fort by Pope Vrban the 8, and from him called Vrbano. Near this Fort is the Foro di Galli, where Hirtius and Pansa, two Roman Consuls, were engaged with M. Antonius; who obtained a glorious Victory, but withal their mortal wounds, whereof they both died upon the place, as is prementioned. Then there appear Purmanio, Bazanio, and Crepellano, three pleasant Castles seated on those hillocks that are at the foot of the Apennineses.  
On the left hand of the Aemilian way, five miles from Bologna, are the Rivers Lavinio and Ghirondon, which meeting together with mutual embraces, jointly environ Forcelli in a triangular form, being distant from Via Aemilia one mile; where Octavianus, M. Antonius, and Marius Lepidus, shared the Monarchy between them. This Forcelli is now a Peninsula, though it may be perceived to have been an Islet formerly. Afterwards these two Rivers disgorge themselves into the Po.  
Near Bologna there is seen a Stone-bridge of great length, which bestrides the River from one side to the other; from whence 'tis but a small and easy mile to Bologna.  
Now we come to the places contiguous and adjacent to Reggio; near which there appear certain Hills that erect their lofty crest so pleasantly, as does create delight in all Passengers; no less beautified and adorned with several fair Towns and Villages, than delicious Wines and Fruit-trees. Towards Parma you may take a view of a Castle (strengthened by its site) where Mathilde the Countess preserved Pope Gregory the seventh from the snares and ambushes prepared for him by the Emperor Henry the fourth, an enemy to the Church of Rome; but afterwards he (being a tender-conscienced Religioso) repent of this imaginary and supposititious Crime, and was led a Royal dance by his Confessor barefoot and bareheaded in the midst of Winter, through Ice and Snow, from this place to the said Pope, to implore a Pardon for this his Peccadillo, and obtained it with a courteous reception. A remarkable Instance, and notorious Precedent of the Tyranny, Haughtiness, and Vainglory of his Ironical, nicknamed Holiness, who dares presume so proudly and imperiously to insult over, nay buffoon a puissant Potentate, making him foot it bare in the depth of a hard Winter; to the Idolatrous City of his residence; and thereby run the risk of losing his life, to gain a fruitless and insignificant Pardon. But this he must do, or forfeit all his Regalia, and be daily menaced with that silly Scarecrow, the Thunder of Excommunication. Thus Monarchy grows consumptive, hangs the head, droops, and dwindles away to nothing, and so expires; King is a mere empty name, or the more glorious synonyma of Vassals, and Prince the more splendid name of Slave. Thus the Sceptre warps to the Crosier, the Emperor's Hat vails to the Bishop's Mitre, and the single does obeisance to the triple Crown. Thus Regal Authority, whose tender neck was ever unaccustomed to the burden of a tame condescension, puts on the heavy Yoke of Pontifical rigorous imposition. Thus here you see the great most Christian Ring crouch to Antichrist, or being Crown-fallen as well as Crestfallen. Thus Majesty itself inclines the reverend head, stoops low with a reverential bow to kiss that vulgarly-adored Pantofle, which frequently proves but the gaudy covering of a Gouty toe.  
At this day, the most Noble Family of the Canossae are Lords of this Castle, and the rest that encircle it; and a small distance from this, stand the Castles and other places that belong to the Signori Manfredi.  
Keeping the way on the Mountains, you come to Graffignana, where Castelnuovo is to be seen, which in times of yore was the Birth-place of many Illustrious persons; and in this our modern age, of Giulio Vrbano; Doctor and Apostolic Prothonotary, who lived in great repute and esteem among Princes Popishly inclined, and was highly applauded by the Fry of the Septuagint of Cardinals, that pay homage to, and revere the pretended and triple-crowned Successor of the Fisherman; who did a long time officiate as Vicar-general, in lieu of the Mitred Cardinal Linga Carnaro Bishop of Milan; and in that quality died, anno 1592. (May the same mortality and good fortune, in God's due time, attend the whole Conclave, that's my Litany.) His brother Vrban was Captain of the Venetian Militia, and Filippo Vrbano their Nephew.  
In your return to the Aemilian way, occurs the Castle of Scandiano, dignified with the Title of a Marquisate, subject to the Signori Feni, noble and renowned Vicentines. On the left hand lies the Castle Roldo, belonging to the House of the Sessi, a Feudatory of the Emperor; with San Martino, Gonzaga the most splendid Village belonging to the Gonzagae Princes of Mantua, and Muvilara.  
Between Modena and Reggio, Correggio appears, not far from the River Lenza; a noble Castle, well governed, and as well peopled: it was called a city of the Empire, and appertains to the most Illustrious Family of the Correggii: and where the River Lecchia dichotomizeth the Via Aemilia, stands a very strong Castle called Ruberia, or Rubiera, by the Learned Herberia, erected as some conjecture by the Boiardi, and as others imagine by the Rubrii of Parma; which had serveral Masters till the year 1523, and then it fell into the hands of the Dukes of Ferrara, and was made famous by the birth of Antonius Codrus, a most polite Grecian, and expert Latinist, being a man of great Learning and vast Parts. This Castle is strongly fortified with a well-made Bulwark or Rampart, and surrounded with many Hills, which add much grace and beauty to its situation, and renders the prospect very delightful. From hence you pass into a spacious and good Road, very commodious for all Travellers that steer their course that way, and design to arrive at the capital City Modena, of which we have already given you a large and exact description.  
In this Tract there are four Apennine hills, and as many Cities which are indebted to the Countess Mathilde for their foundation, viz. Bibianello, Castelvitreo, Monte Zano, and Monte Luzco; all under the command and jurisdiction of the Earls of Canossae.  
Having given you a court and true account of the Government, Riches, Force, Religion, Manners and Qualifications of the People of this ancient and illustrious Dukedom, as also the nature and quality of the Soil and Climate; I shall by way of Corollary close all with a short relation of the Original, Antiquity, and Genealogy of the Dukes of the House of Esté, and bring them down by descent to the most Illustrious person who at present is the undoubted and lawful Prince of the Dukedom of Modena.  
The Princes of the House of Esté have been so considerable, and so much taken notice of both in Peace and War, that John Baptista Pigna hath with much industry and learning composed eight Books of the original, noble exploits and transactions of this Princely Family in Italy and other countries.  
As to their original he saith, that Ateste, Commander of the Heneti (now Venetians) after the sacking and destruction of Troy, was driven into these parts with a considerable Navy, and built the City Atestia or Ateste, of his own name; and he called the whole Tract of ground Venetia: but the Latin degenerating by degrees from its purity, the City lost the primitive e name of Atestia, and sensibly shrunk into that of Esté. This Atestes' descended from the Atii, of the Poblilian Tribe in Rome, who because they did espouse the Quarrel of the Caesars, did obtain so much grace and favour as to be Lords not only of their own Country, but also of all the Territories of Venice. And here the Atestini (for so they were called of old) began to b e in reputation: and these Princes do produce their Chronologie of 1200 years, to manifest and testify their Grandeur in a continued Series down to this present Age.  
Thus the Atii became Masters of a great part of Venice when Ateste was their capital City of Residence: and the Roman Caesar's being then accustomed to create a Magistracy consisting of eleven of the chief Citizens, and sometimes a greater number, (who were also called Decuriones, because at the first institution ten only were required) Atius the son of C. of the last Race, and the first Author of the Family of the Atestini, did exercise this Magistracy there. And this the Inscription of an old Stone doth sufficiently prove, which to this day is preserved by these Princes. This C. Atius had two sons; Aurelius, and Flavius.  
Ateste being thus built, and the Metropolis of Venetia, was called afterwards Esté, and had four Gates opposed to the four quarters of the heaven; the Black, the White, the Triumphal, and the Capitoline Gate, in the Romilian Tribe, saith the Author. It was founded by the Atii, ruined by Acarinus, and restored by Aldoardus; and than 'twas made an Earldom, afterwards created a Marquisate, and enlarged; besieged by the Paduans, taken by Ezelinus, recovered by Azo, burnt by Ezelinus, possessed by those of Padua, and then restored to Azo, and afterwards to Albertus.  
Thus you have in short a brief Narrative of the ancient Atii, the original of the Atestini, or Estenses, as our Modern Authors writ them; which is the most known name; and they are usually called the Dukes of Esté.  
The Family d'Esté, at present Dukes of Modena, which are accounted in the number of the 7 Great Princes of Italy, according to the ancient Division, which are, the Pope, King of Spain, Duke of Savoy, Toscany, Modena, Parma and Montoa; they derive their Pedigree from Allo Marquis of Esté who took upon him the Surname (which the Family is known by to this day) of the City Esté; and still appertains to them de jure. He married Alda daughter to the Emperor Otho the first; which happened an. 1000 and he had with her for Dower Modena and Reggio. Theobaldo d'Esté, Otho's Grandchild, was seized of Ferrara in the year 1055, from Pope John the 12: but they were disseized and absolutely dispossessed of it by Clement the 8, anno 1598., after the decease of Alfonso the second, for want of lawful Issue male: yet Caesar d'Esté was then in being, who was son of Alfonso by Laura Ferraress; and he offered to clear it by manifest proof, that his father was lawfully married to his mother, and he the legitimate Heir. But the Pope was too hard for him, being surely possessed of that which he so greedily thirsted after. And that Family still lays claim to it by a legal pretention. B ut the holy Father (and he you know is infallible) will prove him to be a natural son.  
Yet maugre all this opposition, the Duke is still in possession of the Dukedoms of Modena and Reggio, the Principalities of Carpi and Correggio, the Earldom of Roli, and the Lordships of Sassevil, Garfagna, and Frignano, by the late Treaty of Pisa. Here was indeed a dispute between him and the Papal Crown about the Valleys of Comachio; but this was not so hot, b ut it cooled at length, and was decided upon these Conditions: The Prince being to receive 400000 Crowns for them; which were accordingly paid, and 40000 more for damages, and some other advantageous terms. These Lands which we have before specified, together with those which he possesseth in the Dukedom of Ferrara, yield him annually full 500000 Crowns. All his Dominions are contiguous, and joining close one to the other; which renders him more considerable; and his strength and force consists in the number of his people. Carfagnana alone (being a Province belonging to him) is reported to have fourscore and odd places well walled about, besides several other Strong-holds. He is able upon urgent occasions to lead into the Field 20000 of the Infantry, and 1000 of the Cavalry well armed and accoutred. And farther, he can without any inconveniency whatsoever maintain and keep half of that number. His His Country, 'tis true, and cannot be denied, lies open to several bordering Princes; not for want of good places and well-fortified Castles, for he hath many seated at a very convenient distance; but the reason is, because his Terroir or Land lies level, and upon even ground.  
The Princes of Modena follow the general Maxims of their Neighbours, viz. to keep a good correspondence with Venice, which was always reputed the Protectress of Italian Liberty: but since the loss of Ferrara, they kept close to the Spaniard, till their Interest of late wrought a change upon their inclinations. For Duke Francis was in the late Italian Wars made General of the French; and Mazarine's Niece married to Prince Almerigo his son, who hath left a young son to succeed him. All things at present are managed by the advice of Cardinal d'Esté, Protector of the French Interest at Rome, and the sole Promoter of the late Union of his House to the French Crown. He is Uncle to the now Duke of Modena; a very active and stirring person, and hath made the world speak honourably of him, for his actions both in Peace and War. He is extraordinarily well skilled in the art of concealing his resentments, and understands the old Motto: Qui nescit dissimulare, etc. At Rome he keeps his Palace with more pomp and splendour than any of the Cardinalate: and though 'tis very much frequented by the Nobility, and a numerous train of people, yet they are all constantly and well paid. He is a Zealot in the French Cause; by whose friendship his Family is enriched and well moneyed, by reason of the late Generalship, as also the Country: for the Soldiers took up their Winter-quarters in Modena; which occasioned a great resort of the chief Officers, as well as inferior persons; and this did help the poor Populace to pay the Gabels, with which they are heavily burdened. At present there is one of the Name and Relation, Carlo d'Esté; a Knight of the Order of the Fleece, who attended on the Empress.  
The Duke of Modena hath this advantage beyond most Italian Princes, that some of his Subjects have Feifs of the Empire. There are many great Families; as, the rich Earls di San Paolo, the Bentivogli, Rangoni, Buoncompagni; the Marquis' Spilimberto, Peppoli, Gualengo, di Vignola, and Gualteri; the Earls Caprari, San Martino, di Molsa, di Malvisia, Montecuculi, Tassoni, Ferrareze, di Conoscia, and some others. But all Princes and Republics in Italy, the Venetian solely excepted, do homage, or pay Tribute to the Pope or Emperor; and the Duke of Modena among the rest does Homage to the Emperor for his whole State. Ranuccio the Duke of Parma was married to the sister of the late Duke, she being his second Wife, his former dying without Issue.  
The present Duke of Modena, Francis the second, is very young; so that we have nothing to mention of his Person: and if he were of years, we must say of him, as of other Princes of Italy, They are extremely reserved, live very retiredly, cautiously receiving Foreigners; so that strangers rarely have admission into their Courts, or free access to their Persons for any continuance. They live a kind of recluse and private life, affording no matter of observation to the inquisitive that visit foreign Countries.  
JOSEPHA-MARIA d'Esté (at present the Illustrious Duchess of York) is Sister to the  Francis Duke of Modena, and daughter of Laura Martinozza the now Duchess Dowager, by whom she was accompanied to Dover, where her Nuptials were solemnly celebrated, being Married by the Reverend Dr. Crew, Bishop of Oxford, to the most Illustrious Prince, his Royal Highness JAMES Duke of York, whom God preserve.  
To conclude all: The Arms of the House of Esté, (the present Duke of Modena being of that Noble and Illustrious Family) is a Coat for its strangeness much taken notice of, and is thus Blazoned.  
The Arms are Palewise, of three Pieces. First, Party per Fess in the Chief, Or: an Eagle displayed, Sables; membered, languid, and crowned, Gules; and in base Azure, three Flowers de Lis within a Bordure indented, Or, and Gules. Secondly, Gules two Keys in Saltier, the one Or, the other Argent, charged in Fess with an Escutcheon of pretence, Azure, supporting an Eagle of the third membered, and crowned of the second: over all, in Chief, a Papal Crown Or, garnished with sundry Gems Azure and Purple. Thirdly: The third as the first, counterplaced.  
Now this Coat, upon the failer of the House of Ferrara, belongs to the Family d'Esté, since Dukes of Modena and Reggio.  
FINIS.