THE Manner of Making OF COFFEE, TEA, AND CHOCOLATE. As it is used In most parts of Europe, Asia, Africa, and America. With their Virtues. Newly done out of French and Spanish. LONDON: Printed for William Crook at the Green Dragon without Temple Bar near Devereux Court, 1685. TO THE Right Worshipful Sr. THOMAS CLAYTON, Kt. WARDEN OF MERTON COLLEGE IN OXFORD. THIS TREATISE IS Humbly Dedicated BY THE RANSLATOR JOHN CHAMBERLAIN. THE PREFACE. NATURE desiring, that Man should go forth of her hands as a perfect Masterpiece, and as a Microcosm full of wonders, has made him a present of a considerable apanage, to wit, a sound and vigorous health, that he may live the longer, and exercise all his functions with the less trouble. But as this health may be easily altered and destroyed by an infinite number both of external and internal causes, the Divine Providence knowing that nothing can be more profitable, more agreeable, or more precious 〈◊〉 this her Creature, than this incomparable benefit of health, without which all the honours, all the riches, and all the delights of the world do perpetually incommode, vex, and t●rment a Man, 'tis therefore very wise advice, to draw out of the bosom of the Earth many sorts of Medicines, as well for the conservations of those Persons that are in perfect health, as for the ease and cure of those that are infirm and crazy. In the mean time, as Climates are very different th' one from th' other, and as several Countries produce different species, so Nature has distributed certain Plants and Drugs to some Countries, which she has denied to others; to the end that hereby she might the better favour the mutual commerce of all People, and for the better cementing humane Society, at which she always seems particularly to aim, since she has implanted the love and desire thereof in the minds of all, except such as are ill natured and Men-haters, who seem to be abhortives and monsters in Nature. They therefore do seem to clash with Reason, who in contempt of the sacred Rules of Divine Providence, do hold, that every Country ought to be content with the sole use of its own Drugs, without seeking after those things wherewith Strangers and Foreigners may furnish us. For is it not the mere effect of a capricious and peevish humour, to desire without any reason to deprive Mankind of the use of those healthful productions wherewith Nature from all parts presents him, and to hinder him from all advantages, which he may thence expect? Now amongst all the Drugs whereof Heaven has showed itself liberal to Men, there be three chiefly which in our time have required so great a vogue or credit, and so particular an esteem through all Europe by the signal effects which they are daily found to produce in an infinite number of People, who make use thereof with good success that I have thought it a thing of great importance to communicate to the public some Discourses and Treatises made on this Subject, compiled and gathered together in one Body, that our Nation, always curious and greedy of no velty, may understand the very depth and bottom of these abovesaid Drugs, as well as others; the use whereof has been but lately known amongst us, yet they become more famousevery day than other, by the frequent and daily use we make of them, and with a success which is no less wonderful than profitable; those three Drugs which I mean, and whereof I intent to treat here, are COFFEE, TEA, and CHOCOLATE: The two first are simple Drugs, the latter is a mixed composition of several Drugs. COFFEE grows in Arabia, but the other two come from the Indies, viz. the Tea from the East-Indies, and the Chocolate (or Cacao nut, whereof it is chiefly made) from the West-Indies. The first piece I present you with in this Book is a curious Discourse of COFFEE, done into French out of an Original Copy in Latin, not long since composed by a very learned Physician of Germany, who would be nameless, to the which I have added some draughts gathered out of the works of some learned Travellers on this same subject. The Second Treatise consists of some particular Remarks extracted from the Dutch East-India Companies Embassy to the Emperor of China. From a relation of the Voyage of the Bishop of Beryte to Cochinchina. From the Voyage of Father Alexander of Rhodes: And from the Medicinal Observations of Nicholas Tulpius a a Physician of Amsterdam. The last piece is a Discourse of Chocolate, made by a Spanish Physician, named Antonio Colmenere of Ledesma. I am persuaded that this little Collection will be well accepted by all good men, who shall thereby be enabled to understand what excellent Virtues the Creator has distributed to these three foreign Drugs: Which shall so much the more oblige them to admire and bless the Sovereign Author of all these Creatures, and shall render them the more desirous to make good use thereof, with continual Thanksgiving, in all the Distempers wherewith they shall find themselves either threatened, or really afflicted. OF THE USE OF COFFEE. ALthough the use and the eating of Beans, were heretofore forbidden by Pythagoras, because that their Flowers being spotted with a black Colour, did represent a melancholy shape, and the Souls of the dead that did dwell therein: And though there be others that reject them, affirming that the use of them dulls the senses, and causes troublesome Dreams: Yet because they serve us in the Nature of Victuals and Physic, I shall not think my time and labour misemployed, if I communicate to the public, something on this Subject of Beans. Nevertheless I don't mean to speak of our European Beans; neither of the wild, nor those they sow, whether they be Lupine, or Kidney Beans, or whatsoever sort; of all which we were ever wont to make use, either in the Kitchen or in the Drugster's Trade, since that the most famous Physicians and Chirurgeons have employed them in the Cure of Maladies internal as well as external; viz. In the Dropsy, the Stone, the Stoppage of the Urine, the bloody Flux, Looseness, Bruises, and other Diseases. Neither will I mention the Bean of Egypt; which Dioscorides speaks of, which the Crocodiles avoid as being destructive to their Eyes, witness Pliny. Neither of the Kidney Beans of Paludan Garet, like the Cacao Nut (whereof they make Chocolate) named otherwise Coals by Clusius: Nor will I treat of the purging Beans of Carthage; or those of Ferdinand de Lopez of Castagneda; which come from the Isle of St. Thomas. I will speak for the present of a certain Bean of Arabia called Bon, whereof they make a Drink termed Coffee, which was heretofore in use amongst Arabians, and Egyptians; and which is now a days in very great request amongst the English, French, and Germans. The first that makes mention of the Property of this Bean, under the name of Bunchum in the 9th. Century after the Birth of our Saviour, was Zachary Mahomet Races, commonly called Rhasio, a very famous Arabian Physician, who has composed a great many excellent Books, to wit, Ten dedicated to King Almansor, and Fifteen other learned Works. He was the first, that did explain what was the meaning of Bunchum, assuring us that it is hot and dry, very good for the Stomach, it hinders the unpleasant smell of Sweat, and of depilatory Ointments. After Races divers other Physicians, and particularly Avicenne, explains Bon under the name of Bunchum. As to the choice thereof, he says that of a Lemon colour, light, and of a good smell is the best; that the white and the heavy is naught, that it is hot and dry in the first degree, and according to others cold in the first degree. As to its operations and effects, it fortifies the members, it cleans the skin, and dries up the humidities that are under it, and it gives an excellent smell to all the Body. Prosper Alpinus in his Book of the Medicines and Plants of Egypt, throughly describes the Bean Bon, and the Drink they make thereof. For he says the Grain Bon is in great use among the Egyptians, of which they prepare a decoction, whereof they drink in their Country just the same as we do the wine in our Taverns: And though they drink it all day long, yet their manner is always to take a large quantity thereof in the morning fasting, as hot as they can well endure it, it being the general opinion amongst them, that it warms and corroborates the Stomach, and that it is a powerful remedy to cure all the obstructions of the Bowels. It is an excellent Remedy against the stoppage of women's Courses, and they make often use thereof, when they don't flow so fast as they desire, they sip a great deal of it, as hot as they can drink it; always taking care to drink it by little and little: for it is the Custom of every one to drink it after that manner. He proceeds further in it, saying, that the drink called Coffee is much esteemed of in those Countries, the which they prepare with certain black Grains, which come very near to Beans. This decoction they make two ways: the one with the skin or the outside of the aforesaid Grain, and the other with the very substance of the Bean. That which is made of the skin is of more force, than the other that's made with the Bean itself: I have seen the Tree whereon it grows in the Orchard of a Turkish Commander, who had caused it to be transplanted out of Arabia, it very much resembles the Plant, called Priests Bonnet. The quality of this Drink is cold and dry, or rather temperate in respect of cold, by reason of some heat, which is found mingled therewith: For this grain is composed of two different substances; to wit, the one gross and terren, whereby it strengthens and corroborates, and the other is thought to be made up of warm parts, by which it heats, cleanses, and opens. This decoction has a taste not much different from that of Succory, though it has a greater power to remove all obstructions. Having then took notice; that the Women in the beginning of their courses, to help evacuations, drink of it by little and little, a great quantity very hot, and in that time make great use of this Drink. Assisted and with this experience I begun to employ it for all women whatsoever, who by some cause or other have their purgations ceased or diminished, the which I have seen experimented by very many with good success; and thence I have learned, that this sort of Medicine was excellent for the stopping of women's courses, which proceeds from the obstructions of the veins in the Matrice, having before hand provided for the purging of the body. This Drink took in the morning fasting, mightily provokes the Courses, and it is a quick and certain remedy for those Women, who not having their courses are troubled with violent pains. They prepare this decoction taking a pound and a half of the Kernels of this Grain, peeling off the skin they roast it before the fire, and having roasted or parched it, they boil it in twenty pints of water. Others take the Grain roasted or parched, and beat to powder, and let it lie steeped in water a whole day: and without any other infusion they boil it half a way, and having strained it, they keep it in earthen pots stopped close, to make use thereof when they shall want it. They prepare this drink after the same fashion, with the Bark of the aforesaid Grain: which nevertheless they take in a less quantity, viz. some only six ounces, others nine, with twenty pints of Fountain water, which they boil half away. This Drink the Arabians call Caova: the Berries (as I said before) grow on a Tree much like our Priest's Bonnet, though the leaves are thicker, harder, and greener, and besides they are green all the year round. They use this decoction to fortify the stomach, when it is too cold, and to help digestion, as also to remove the obstructions of the entrails: they make use of it several days with good success, in the cold swellings of the Liver and the Spleen. Avieenne mentions these Grains, and attributes the same use to them; esteeming them to be hot in the third degree, and dry in the second; which does not seem likely; since it has a sweet with a kind of bitterness, without any sharpness or acrimony. We must now particularise the preparation of this Drink made with Coffee; 'tis true, I have spoken something hereof before, but in general now I will proceed to the particulars. The Coffee Tree. The Instrument. I have here explained in general the Virtues of that wholesome drink called Coffee; though it will not be altogether unnecessary, to relate what an eminent Arabian Physician speaks thereof, who more particularly declares these things that follow. The fruit Bon (says he) is gathered in the Month Ab, which being took out of its shell is divided into two parts, its Flowers are whitish, this Bean is hot in the first degree, and dry in the second, that is to say its Skin, as to the kernel, it is altogether temperate, nevertheless it dries, but moderately and pleasant: Its drink is good against Catarrhs and Rheums, which trouble the Breast: In the stoppage of women's courses, and Urine, against the boiling of the blood, and the decaying of the strength 'tis very necessary. This drink has got the same esteem in Denmark and Sweden: In which Countries the great Lords make use of it frequently. And especially at Paris there are a great many Shops that sell Coffee publicly with this following commendation. The most excellent Virtues of the Berry called Coffee. COffee is a Berry which only grows in the desert of Arabia, from whence it is transported into all the Dominions of the Grand Signior, which being drunk dries up all the cold and moist humours, disperses the wind fortifies the Liver, eases the dropsy by its purifying quality, 'tis a Sovereign medicine against the itch, and corruptions of the blood, refreshes the heart, and the vital beating thereof, it relieves those that have pains in their Stomach, and cannot eat: It is good also against the indispositions of the brain, cold, moist, and heavy, the steam which rises out of it is good against the Rheums of the eyes, and drumming in the ears: 'Tis excellent also against the shortness of the breath, against Rheums which trouble the Liver, and the pains of the Spleen: It is an extraordinary ease against the Worms: After having eat or drunk too much: Nothing is better for those that eat much Fruit. The daily use hereof in a little while will manifest the aforesaid effect to those, that being indisposed shall use it from time to time. 'Tis related that the Turks amongst other drinks, make use of one which they greatly esteem, and which they call Chaube, the same with our Coffee as black as Ink, and which is excellent, especially in the illness of the Stomach: They are wont to drink thereof in the Morning, in public places without any difficulty, they take it in earthen or Porcelain Porringers, their manner is setting themselves down on the ground in a Ring, every one drinks in his turn: They set the Porringer oftentimes to their mouth, but they drink but a very little at a time, by reason of its extreme heat. The ingredients they use in the making of this Liquor, are certain fruits which are called Buncho, by the Inhabitants of the Country; being like (as to the out side) in greatness, and Colour to the Laurel Berries, having two skins very thin, they say they are brought from the Indies, 'tis athing of small price amongst them. There is observed to be two yellow Grains within, which have each of them their little several partition▪ and resembles in Colour, Name, and quality, the Bancha of Avicenne or the Buncha of Races. And for my part I shall think it to be the same thing till the Learned shall better inform me, this drink is very frequent amongst them, for which cause there be very many of them that sell it in public Shops, and a great many trade abroad with this Fruit in houses of entertainment. They count it as wholesome as we do our wormwood Wine or other Physical drinks At Amsterdam this drink is sold with great commendation of the public, for it preserves the radical moistness, strengthens the Stomach, cures sore eyes, pain in the Head, Catarrhs, Palsy, Gout, the Dropsy, 'tis good against the Scurvy, breaks the Stone, and eases women with Child. Monsieur Simon Pauli an eminent Physician does altogether condemn the use of Coffee, in a Treatise concerning the abuse of Tobacco and Tea, for as much as it effeminates both the body and understanding, which yet it does not by cooling it too much, but because it insensibly dries by reason of its natural Sulphur wherewith it abounds as well as Tobacco, and the Agnus Castus, or Park-leaves, but we ought to interpret what this Learned man says of the abuse, and not of the right usage of Coffee, otherwise one may as well forbid the use of Rhubard, China, Sassafras, and other Drugs which grow out of Europe. For my part I do no less blame the abuse of Coffee, than that of Wine: But I defend the lawful use thereof, since it is evident that many find this drink to be very profitable, taken in the Morning fasting, with a little Sugar, in a moderate quantity, and to very good purpose, and daily experience shows that it is very proper to cure the indispositions of the Stomach, stop Fluxes, and fortifies the whole body. If all those that make use of Coffee, did it through a principal of daintiness and nicety, the aforesaid discourse would be sufficient to satisfy their curiosities, but the most part of those that use it are reduced thereto by necessity, and take it rather as a Medicine and not as a dainty dish: I thought I should do them a pleasure to add hereto these following remarks on the same Subject, which I have gathered from the reading of some particular Voyages, by which one may see that all the Authors, who have treated of the properties of this sort of Bean, are agreed in the same opinion, that it is most excellent in the curing of several indispositions, and most especially for those which trouble the head or Stomach. Fietro Del Lavallè an Italian Gentleman Surnamed the illustrious Traveller, speaks in two several places of his Book concerning Coffee, but as that which he says of it in the first place is not very considerable, I'll pass it over, and only insist upon his second remark of Coffee, wherein speaking of the Turkish Liquors, he utters his mind in these Terms. The Turks have a Drink of a black Colour, which during the Summer is very cooling, whereas in the Winter it mightily heats and warms the Body, yet without changing the substance, and always continuing the same drink, that they swallow hot as it comes from the Fire, and they drink it at long draughts, not at dinner time, but as a kind of dainty, and as it were to please their palate, and to entertain themselves at their case in the Company of their friends, and one cannot find any meetings amongst them where they drink it not. For which end they keep a great fire on purpose, near which they keep always ready little Porringers of Porcelain filled with this mixture; and when that is hot enough, there be Servants appointed for this end, who do nothing els● but carry these Porringers to each man in the Company, as hot as they can, giving them also some Melon seed to chew, for the better passing away the time; and with this Seed and this Drink, which they call Cahue, they divert themselves in their Conversations, in public Feasts or particular Recreations, sometimes the space of seven or eight hours. I drank of it last Summer, as a refreshment, with Melon Seed, and satisfaction enough; I remember I have read somewhere that the Ancients did likewise use such sorts of Liqours, and if that be true, there is a great deal of likelihood that it is was the same thing: Because that in many other fashions, as well of this Country as abroad amongst Foreigners, I find every day some footsteps and remainders of Antiquity. This Drink, as I remember, is made with the grain or Fruit of a certain Tree, which grows in Arabia towards Mecca, and the fruit it produces is called Cahue, whence this Drink derives its Name, 'tis of ●n oval shape, of the same bigness as a middle-sized Olive, and to make this composition they take sometimes no more than the skin, which is tender, sometimes only the Kernel which is like to beans; and they are of an opinion, that of these two juices, the one heats the tother cools, but I cannot well call to mind whether the refreshing is that of the skin or the other. The way to make the Drink thereof, is thus: They burn the skin or Kernel of this fruit as it best pleases their fancy or palate, and they beat it to a powder very fine, of a blackish Colour, which is not very pleasant to the eyesight; this Powder will keep a long time, and is always to be found in the Drugster's Shops. When they would drink thereof they boil it in Water in certain pots made on purpose, having a long and slender pipe to pour it readily into the little Porringers, and when the Water has boiled enough, they put therein such a quantity of this powder, according to the number of people that are to drink of it: they let this powder boil with the Water sometime until it sha● have lost its bitter taste, which it wou●● always keep without a perfect boiling. Afterwards they pour out this Liquor to be drunk as hot as the Moth and Throat can endure it, not suffering themselves to swallow it but by little and little, and at several times, because of its actual heat: and after it has taken the taste and colour of this powder, whereof the thick sinks down and remains at the bottom of the Pot, to make use of it more deliciously, they mingle with this powder of Cahue, much Sugar, Cinnamon, and Cloves well beaten, which gives it an exquisite taste, and makes it much more nourishing. But yet without these dainties this drink it agreeable enough to the taste with the powder of Cahue alone; and if you will believe them it contributes notably to the health, helping digestion, fortifying the Stomach, stopping Rheums and Catarrhs: These are very good qualities if they be effectual. They also say that after Supper it hinders drowsiness, and for that reason those that would study by Night do then drink thereof. There is sold here by retail so great a quantity of it, that they say the● impost upon Cahue, amounts to a considerable sum to the Grand Seignours profit: When I return I will bring some of it with me, and I will impart the Knowledge of this simple to the Italians, which perhaps at present is altogether unknown to them. If they should drink it with Wine as they do with Water, I durst say it would be the Nepenthe that Homer mentions, which Helen drunk there, it being for certain that Cahue is brought hither from that Country: And as this Nepenthe was a charm against cares and vexations, the same Cahue to this day is used amongst the Turks as an entertainment and past-time, making the hours to slip away merrily in conversation, intermingling with their drink several pleasant and recreative discourses, which unawares brings upon their mind this forgetfulness of sorrows which the Poet attributes to his Nepenthe. Thevenot in a Relation which he has published of a Voyage into the Levant set a particular Chapter apart which he employs in describing the Victuals, Drink, and Lodging of the Turks, and after having mentioned their other Liqours, speaks thus; The Turks have another drink very common amongst them which they call Cahue; whereof they make use every hour in the day. This drink is made of a grain whereof we will speak by and by. They roast it in a pan, or any other utensil upon the fire, afterward they peel it, and beat it into powder very fine, and when they would drink thereof, they take a brazen pot made purposely which they call Ibrik, and having filled it with water, thy boil it, and when it boils they put of this powder therein, for about two cups of water one spoonful, and when that is boiled they take it quickly from the fire, or remove it, otherwise it would boil over, for it rises quickly, when it has thus had ten or twelve boilings, they pour it into little dishes of Porcelain, set in rank on a Trencher of painted wood, they bring it you boiling hot, and it must be so drunk, but at several times, otherwise it is not good. This Liquor is black and bitter; and smells a little of the burnt too, every one drinks it by little and little, for fear of scalding their mouths, so that being in a Cavehane (for so they name the places where 'tis sold ready made) one may receive a kind of music and divertisement by hearing the noise that every one makes in sipping. This drink is good to hinder the fumes which rise from the stomach into the head, and by consequence to cure the indisposition thereof, and for the same reason 'tis good against sleeping. When our French Merchants have a great many Letters to write, and intent to labour all night, they take in the evening a dish or two of this Cahue, it is good also to comfort the stomach and help digestion; in a word if you will believe the Turks 'tis good against all indispositions whatever, and assuredly it has at the least as much virtue in it, as is appropriated to Tea. For the taste, in drinking thereof once or twice, one may easily accustom ones self to it, and it will no longer seem unpleasant; there be some that mix therewith Cloves and a few grains of Cardamome, called in Latin Cardamomum minus, which they name Cacoule; others put thereto Sugar, but this mixture which makes it more pleasant renders it less wholesome and profitable: they drink a vast quantity thereof in the Turkish Country; there is neither rich nor poor that drinks less than two or three cups a day, and 'tis one of the things wherewith the husband is obliged to furnish his Wife. There be many public Taverns of Cahue where they boil it in great Kettles; in these places all sort of people may come, without distinction of Religion or quality, and 'tis no shame to frequent these places, since many go only to recreate themselves; there be also without the house, Walls with Mats on them, where those that will may sit and see all that pass by, and take the air, and there are some that play on the Violin, Flute and other Music, who are hired by the Master of the Cavehane to play and sing the best part of the day, to bring company together. When anyone that has any breeding sees another of his acquaintance come into the Cavehane he will order the Master not to take their money, and that by one only word, for when the Cahue is given them he Cries Giaba, that is, Gratis. Monsieur de Bourges in the account he gives of the Voyage of the Bishop of Beryte to Cochinchina, reckoning up the incommodities they underwent, in the march of the Caravan through the Desert, sets down, as one of the most insupportable, the want of water, which they were put to much trouble to find, and oftentimes they were forced to use corrupted water. Whereupon he says, As the water which they meet with is commonly naught, putryfied, to correct the indisposition which it causes in the stomach, the Turks take a drink, called Coffee, which begins to be used by the Europeans. This drink is made of a little Bean which grows in Arabia near Mecca in such abundance, that it is transported into all Asia, and almost all the places where there be Mahometans▪ who make use of this drink instead of Wine, whereas it sufficiently imitates the effects, having the property to fortify the stomach, and to make easy the digestion, and to purify the vapours of the Head. They roast this Bean in a pan afterward they pound it in a Mortas, after having separated the bran by a fine Sieve, they boil this black and burnt powder in water a little while, than they drink it as hot as they can, though this Liquor has not an agreeable taste, but rather bitter, yet it is much esteemed of by these people for the good effects they find therein; which manifests the care God has to furnish all Countries with the necessary things for the advantage of men, and there is no doubt but that there be other plants in other Countries which have the like virtues. The end of Coffee. A NEW RELATION OF THE USE AND VIRTUE OF TEA. LONDON, Printed for W. Crook at the Sign of the Green Dragon without Temple-Bar. 1685. OF THE USE OF TEA. AS I never yet met with any particular Discourse of Tea, I am not able to afford to the Curious any other than these following remarks, which though they are very concise, yet are large enough to discover the miraculous qualities, which the Divine Providence has imparted to this leaf, in the cure of several indispositions, which become but too often the subject of our griefs. The Author of the Book entitled, the Embassy of the United Provinces to the Emperor of China, Printed at Leyden in the year 1655. in the Description which he makes of the Empire, Speaks thus of Tea; The most excellent leaves of Cha or Tea, are found in the Provinces of Kiangnon, and specially near the City Hoeicheu; this leaf is little, and the Tree thereof is very like the shrub called by Pliny, Rhus Coriarius, or Curriers Sumack: I do almost believe that this is a kind of the same, however it is not a wild shrub, but a garden Plant; and further 'tis no tree but a shrub, which spreads itself into divers little branches and pleasant boughs: Its flowers come very near to that of Sumack, only this of Cha inclines more to a yellow, it puts forth its first flower in Summer, which does not give much scent, and its green berry becomes blackish, its branches are covered with white and yellow flowers jagged and picked from top to bottom. To make this drink of Cha so much esteemed by the Indians, they only look for the first leaf which comes forth in Spring, which also is the most soft and delicate, they gather it with great care the one after tother, and separately, afterwards they presently heat it a little while, and softly, on a gentle fire, and wrap it in a very fine, thin, and smooth piece of Calico, often stirring and rubbing it with the hands, than they set it on the fire again, being also wrapped up, and turned, and rub it the second time till it curls up together and becomes quite dry, after which they pour it into tin boxes, sealing and stopping it very close, for fear the Spirits and the too subtle quality, should evaporate, for after you have kept it a long while, if you put it into boiling water it will retake its former verdure extending and spreading forth itself; if it be good it leaves behind it in the Water a smell and taste very agreeable to the palate, and withal a greenish colour. The Chinese praise it wonderfully, and set a great value on the virtues and qualities of this drink, for they use it Night and day, and present it as a great rarity to those they would regal. Now there be so many several sorts, and 'tis so different both of price and goodness, that there is some, a pound whereof is worth an hundred Franks and more, another sort you may have for ten or a dozen Crowns, others for two, nay some so cheap, that will cost but two farthings a pound. It has at the least this good quality to hinder the Gout, and the Gravel in the kidneys, if you drink of it after meals it takes away all indigestions and crudities of the Stomach, above all it helps and facilitates digestion, more especially it disintoxicates those that are fuddled, giving them new forces, and enabling them to go to it again; because it eases the burden of those inconveniences which this brutal excess brings along with it, by reason that it dries and cleanses all the superfluous and peccant humours, and that 〈◊〉 disperses the vapours which cause sleep and overcome a man when he desires to be waking. The Chineses have given it divers names, according to the diversity of the places where it grew, and from its innate virtues, as that of Hoeicheu is the best, so they have named it SLUNGOCHA, and sell it some times for 150 Franks the pound. It has a blackish seed, which falling to the ground takes root, and at the end of three years produces pretty little shrubs about the height of our goosberry bushes or Rosetrees, whereof they gather every year a very considerable crop, the snow and the hail not being able though never so rigorous to do them any hurt, so that I am persuaded one might easily improve this plant in the Soil of Europe, if its grain were sowed in some shady and fertile place. The japeneses prepare this drink quite after an other sort than the Chineses do, for of its leaves they make a powder which they drink with hot water, but the Chineses drink the boiling water in the which th●se leaves have been strained, and whereto they have contributed all their goodness. Monsieur de Bourges, in the Relation (which I have already instanced,) of the Voyage of the Bishop of Beryte to Cochinchina, speaks thus. During our abode at Siam, after our dinner, which was usually of fish, we drank some Tea, which they take very hot with a little sugar, we found it very wholesome; and comparing the effects of this Tea with those of wine, especially as they use it in this Country, where the Stomach is weakened by the extreme heat, and its force is oppressed by the quality of the nourishment, it is doubtful which of these two may obtain the pre-eminence, if not this leaf; the use whereof is grown so common in those Countries, it having many excellent properties, the chief of which is to make one that is drunk become sober. Wherein 'tis very different from all other liqours whereof men make use, which being drunk with excess, either weaken or quite deprive them of their understanding, whereas Tea fortifies, and frees them from the vapours which hinder its effects. In the several Voyages of Father Alexander of Rhodes, the thirteenth Chapter is wholly taken up, in treating of Tea, and reflecting on the advantages of the People of China. He says, One of the things which in my opinion do very much contribute to the great health of this people, which oftentimes appears to the very last, in their old age, is Tea, whose use is exceeding common through all the East, and begins to be known in some Countries of Europe, by the means of the Hollanders, who bring it from China, and sell it at Paris for thirty Franks the pound which they buy in this Country for eight pence or ten pence, and yet I perceive that it is commonly very old and naughty. 'Tis thus that the French and English suffer strangers to enrich themselves in the East-India trade, whence they might draw all the best commodities of the world, if they had but the courage to undertake it as well as their neighbours, who have less means to prosper therein then our own Countrymen. Ten is a leaf, as big, as that of our Pomegranate tree, it grows on little shrubs very much resembling the Myrtle Tree, it is not to be purchased in any Country of the World, but only in two Provinces of China where it grows, one whereof is called Nanquin, whence comes the best Tea, which they name Cha, the other is the Province of Chincheau, in these two Provinces, there is as much care taken in the Crop of this leaf as there is in our Vintages. It grows here in so great abundance, that they have enough thereof to furnish the rest of China, japan, Tunquin, Cochinchina, and several other Kingdoms, where they so ordinarily make use of Tea, that those who drink it but three times a day, are the most moderate, others take of it ten or twelve times a day, or to say better, every hour. When this leaf is cropped, they dry it well in an Oven, than they put it into tin boxes, which must be well shut, for if it takes wind, 'tis spoiled, and has no more strength then dead leven. I leave to you to judge if the Hollanders take great care of that they sell into France. To know if the Ten be good, you must see that it be very Green, bitter, and so dry as to be easily broken with the Finger, if it is all thus, 'tis good, otherwise assure yourself it is not worth much. The fashion of the Chineses when they make use of this Tea is to boil some Water in a little pot very clean, when it boils well, they take it from the fire, and put therein, so many leaves according to the proportion of Water, that is to say into a good large glass of Water, they put about an Ounce of Tea, they Cover the pot well, and when the leaf sinks to the bottom of the Water, then is the time to drink it, for 'tis then that the Tea Communicates its virtue to the Water, giving it a reddish dye, they drink it as hot as they can, for if it should cool it would be good for nothing, the same leaf which tarries at the Bottom of the pot will serve a second or third time, but then they boil it with the water. The japeneses take it another way, for they first beat the Tea to powder, than they put it into boiling water and swallow it all together: I know not whether this way of taking it be more wholesome than the former. I have made use of, and always found that way of the Chineses to be exceeding good: both of them mingle a little sugar therewith to correct the bitterness of the Tea, which nevertheless methinks is not so very unpleasant. There be three principal virtues in Tea; the first of which is to cure and to hinder the pains of the head; for my part, when I had the Megrime, in taking of this Tea, I found myself so very much eased and comforted that it drew out all the pain of my head: for the principal force of Tea is to abate and expel those gross vapours which ascending from the Stomach into the head do very much incommode us. If you take it after supper, it commonly hinders sleep, yet there be some who by drinking of Tea sleeps the better, because allaying none but the most foggy vapours, it leaves behind it those that do chiefly cause sleep. For my part I have experimented it often enough, when I have been compelled to sit up all night about some extraordinary business, I needed to do no more but to take some of this Tea when I perceived myself beginning to sleep, and I could easily watch all night without winking, and the next morning I was as fresh as if I had slept my ordinary time; this I could do once a week without any trouble. I tried one time to continue waking six nights together. But the last night I found myself quite spent. Ten is not only good for the head, but it has a marvellous force in easing the Stomach, and helping digestion, they drink it also ordinarily after dinner; after supper not at all, especially those that would sleep. The third thing for which Tea is good, is to purge the reins of the Gout and Gravel, and 'tis perhaps the true reason why these diseases are unknown in those Countries. I have the more enlarged myself on this discourse of Tea, for since my abode in France I have had the honour to see some persons of great quality and of an illustrious merit, (and upon whose lives and healths the safety of France does almost depend,) who make use thereof with good success, and who have had the goodness to command me to teach them the nature and quality of this Drug, the knowledge whereof I have gained by a thirty years' experience. Nicholas Tulpius Physician of Amsterdam, in his Book of medicinal observations speaks thus. There is nothing more ordinary in the East Indies than the drink, which is made of the decoction of a certain Plant, called by the Chinese, Tea, by the japanese, Tchia, whereof I shall make no difficulty to communicate to Posterity, all the knowledge that has been imparted to me by those who hold the Sovereign authority in these Countries. As therefore the abovesaid Plant has leaves long picked, and jagged round about, so on the other side its root is full of strings, and divided into two little partitions, and does not grow only in China and japan, but also in Chiam or Siam: moreover there is this difference, the leaves of China are of a dark green something inclining to a black, but those of japan, are of a more pale and whitish green, and of a more pleasant taste, which is the very reason why the Tchia of japan is much more esteemed than the Tea of China, so that it often happens, that one only ●ound of Tchia is sold for 100 French Livres. And indeed 'tis the common vogue and opinion of this Country, that there is nothing more Sovereign than this plant, as well for the prolonging of our days even to an extreme old age, as for dissipating all that may be an hindrance or obstacle to our health, and that it not only renders the body more vigorous, and preserves it from the pains of the Stone (to which there be none in these Countries that are found subject) but which is more, it cures all pains of the head, Rheums, and soreness of the eyes, of the breast, shortness of breath, weakness of the Stomach, Griping of the Guts, weariness, and it so evidently hinders sleep, that those persons who drink of the said decoction pass sometimes whole nights without sleeping, and overcome without any trouble, or tediousness the necessity of sleep, which otherwise were insupportable: for it heats moderately, and contracts the upper orifice of the Stomach, it retains and suppresses so well the vapours necessary in the creating sleep which rise from below, that those who have a desire to spend th● whole night in writing, or studying▪ do thereby find no manner of trouble or distrubance. Noreover it is very likely that thi● plant has not been long known to the Chineses themselves, and that it has been in use amongst them but 〈◊〉 small time, since they cannot find in their language any ancient word whereby to explain it, and have not any hieroglyphic characters (such as are almost all the Letters of the Chinese) by the means whereof they might express its nature. As to the manner of using this Plant, we must take notice that these nations are very different one from tother in that matter. For the japaneses beat the same Plant to powder, pounding it upon a marble stone, and afterwards mingling it well with hot water: but the Chineses only boil it in some liquor, adding thereto a few grains either of Salt, or Sugar, which decoction, as yet hot, they present afterwards very courteously, as well to those that being invited to dinner they treat at home, as to them that come to render them a visit: This drink they make with so great care and so nice an application of their mind thereto; even persons of the highest quality are not ashamed, but on the contrary they take great pride to make with their own hands the decoction of this herb for their friends, or at the least assist in the mingling thereof, and preparing it as it ought to be, having expressly for that purpose in the middle of their Palaces Rooms set apart, wherein there are little Ovens made of the most precious stones, and of most exquisite wood, reserved particularly for the aforesaid preparation, keeping, also curiously in these Rooms the pots, trivets, funells, bowls, porringers, and other vessels belonging to this sort of kitchen, perfectly well wrought, and on which they freely bestow some thousands of Crowns, keeping them handsomely wrapped up and folded in pieces of silk, and not showing them to any but their most intimate friends. They do also make as great account thereof as we do of our Diamonds, precious Stones, Necklaces of pearls of the highest Price. As one may see more especially in several Authors that have written of the East Indies, and more particulary of China and japan. The end of Tea. A Curious TREATISE OF THE NATURE and QUALITY OF CHOCOLATE. Divided into Four Parts. In the First whereof is declared, what CHOCOLATE is; and more particularly of the quality of CACAO, and all the other Ingredients. In the Second is shown the quality that results from that Composition. In the Third is taught how to make it, and how many ways the West Indians use it, and which of them is the most wholesome. The last part treats of the quantity thereof, and how it must be taken, and in what time, and by what persons. By Antonio Colmenero de Ledesma, a Spaniard, Physician and Chirurgeon of the City of Ecija in Andaluzia. Done into English from the Original Spanish By J. CHAMBERLAINE. London, Printed for W. Crook at the Green Dragon without Temple Bar, 1685. The Preface to the Reader. SO great is the number of those persons, who at present do drink of Chocolate, that not only in the West Indies, whence this Drink has its Original and beginning▪ but also in Spain, Italy, Flanders, etc. it is very much used, and especially in the Court of the King of Spain; where the great Ladies drink it in a morning before they rise out of their beds, and lately much used in England, as Diet and Physic with the Gentry. Yet there are several persons that stand in doubt both of the hurt and of the benefit, which proceeds from the use thereof; some saying, that it obstructs and causes oppilations, others and those the most part, that it fattens, several assure us that it fortifies the Stomach: Some again that it heats and inflames the body: But very many steadfastly affirm, that though they should drink it at all hours, and that even in the Dog-days, they find themselves very well after it: And therefore it does not seem needless to me to have undertaken this labour, for the profit and content of the public, endeavouring to accommodate this Drink to every Man's liking, according to the variety of things, which may be mixed therewith, to the end, that every one may choose that which he shall find most agreeable towards the cure of his infirmities. I have not seen any thing of the like nature in Print afore, unless that which a Physician of Merchend (a Town in Andaluzia) speaks thereof, who judges the Chocolate to be obstructive, because the Cacao is cold and dry, and because this reason may not sufficiently avail with some persons (that are troubled with obstructions) to make them forbear the use thereof, I think it fit to defend this mixture and composition by Philosophical Reasons against all those that would condemn so good and wholesome a Liquor. THE USE OF CHOCOLATE. The First Part. IN this first Division I affirm that Chocolate is a word of the Indians which vulgarly signifies no more than a certain confection, in the which besides the other simples and ingredients the Cacao Nut comes in as the princpal basis and foundation; the Nature whereof first of all we must necessarily mention. Chocolate therefore, or Chocolatl, is an Indian word by which (as I said before) is meant a certain paste or mixture composed of very many drugs, of which they take a certain portion to dissolve it in ordinary Water, or any other Liquor that may serve instead of drink. This Drink is not common to all the Indians, but only to those that inhabit the Northern America; and namely to those that dwell in New Spain, where grows the Cacao in great abundance, which is the chiefest thing in this composition, it is particularly used in Mexico, whence it is transported into Europe, to those places which hold great Commerce and correspondence with the Mexicans. I hold therefore, with the common opinion of all the world, that the Cacao is cold and dry, according to the excess of its quality. Our Author not speaking any thing concerning the Tree which bears the Cacao, we are obliged to supply his oversight, by giving you a description thereof extracted from the works of Francis Ximenes, in in his book entitled Of the Nature of the Plants and Animals of New-Spain, a Work very curious and very scarce, which was printed not long since at Mexico. The Tree of the Cacao called Cucahuaguabuith (says he) is of the same bigness, and has the same leaves though something larger, with the Orange Tree. Herrera compares them to those of the Chestnut Tree, or for the better understanding it, like our plumb trees; its fruit is long, and like a, Melon or Pompion, but it is streaked, chanelled, and ruddy, the which is named Cacahuaeinsh full of small Nuts called Cacao, something less than an Almond, but better cemented, and of a good taste, its Nuts are divided into two equal parts, well compacted and close together. It is of a fine nourishment, being of a middling taste between sweet and bitter, its temperament something cold and moist, There be four sorts of this Tree, the first is called Cacahuaguahuitl, which is the biggest of all, and bears a great quantity of fruit. The second is called by the same name, but of a middle size, the leaves and fruit whereof is a great deal less. The third is named Xuchicacahuaguahuiths, less than tother, of which the fruit is redder on the outside, within 'tis altogether like the others. The fourth sort is the least of all, so it is termed Tlalcacahuaguahuitl, that is to say, a little low Tree of Cacao, the which bears a fruit less than all the rest, although there is no difference between them as to the colour: Now all these fruits are of the same quality, and of the same use, although they make use of the last principally in drink, the others serve rather for money and change. Moreover they were wont to Plant near the Tree which bears the Cacoa another Tree which they call Atlynam, to the end that it may shade it and defend it from the heat and rays of the Sun, besides which it is not good for any other use. He that will may see what is further spoken thereof in the Chronicles of America Printed at Francfort 1602. In joseph Acosta in his general History of the Indies: In jean Eusebe de Nuremberg; and in Clusius of strange things. It is convenient to know for the intelligence of this thing, that although it may be true that every Medicine, as simple as 'tis, possesses and keeps in itself the four qualities of the elements. Nevertheless from the acting and re-acting, which they have one upon another, there proceeds and results another quality distinct and different from these four former called Complexion or Temperement. This quality or Complexion which results from this mixture is not always the same, neither is it of the same sort in all the mixed bodies: but it has nine kinds and differences, to wit, four simples, which have one only Superior quality; four compound which have two predominant qualities, but however which agree very well together, and for that reason are called symbolizant, and a ninth which the Philosophers call ad pondus, as if one should say a temperament exactly equal, when as all the aforesaid qualities are evenly poised, that is equal in weight and in degree. The complexion and temperament of the Cacao is compounded of all these, for it has two qualities to wit, cold, and dry, which are Superior, and predominant, the which render the body wherein they are found adstringent, opilative, and making obstructions, from the terrestrial quality thereof, but furthermore the Cacao being a mixed Body, composed of the four Elements, it ought necessarily to have some parts correspond, and proportionable to all the elements; and it has some particular parts, and those not a few, which correspondant with the element of the air, which are the heat and moistness, which qualities are found joined with the buttery parts, so that they draw from the Cacao a great quantity of butter, which they use in making their faces shine, which I have seen practised in the Indies by the Spanish Women born there, who are called by the Spaniards Croillas. Against which one may make this Philosophical Objection: two contrary and disagreeing qualities, cannot be found in the highest degree in the same Body; as for Example, the Cacao is cold and dry in the highest degree, consequently therefore the Cacao cannot be hot and dry in the same degree, which are contrary to cold and moisture. The first proposition is most certain, and received in good Philosophy. The second is also agreed to by all the World, therefore the conclusion is most true and certain. One cannot deny but this is a very strong argument, and 'tis likely that these reasons being considered by that same Physician of Merchena, might induce him to affirm, that Chocolate was obstructive, for he thought it contrary to all Philosophy, to say that the Cacao is hot and moist in the highest degree, which is certainly believed to be cold and dry. But to this I answer two things, the one is the small experience and knowledge this Physician had thereof, having never seen them extract the great quantity of Butter from thence; and that, when they prepare the Chocolate, without doing any thing to the powder of the Cacao, but beating and pounding it sufficiently, it becomes a part firm and well compacted, which is a certain sign that it has within an oily and viscuous matter, which necessarily corresponds with the element of the air: The other Argument we shall draw from the very fountain of Philosophy, wherein I shall demonstrate, that in the Cacao are included different Substances, in some of which, to wit, in those that are not so thick and gross, there is a greater quantity of oily and buttery than of earthy parts, and in the condense and heavy parts there is a more earthy than oily substance; in the former heat and moisture are predominate, the latter are accounted cold and dry. Yet it is hard to believe, that one and the same substance, and that so small as the Cacao is, can contain two different qualities. Yet that this may appear more easy, clear, and evident, we see it more especially in Rhubarb, the which has some hot and purgative parts; others cold, dry, and astringent, which have the power to fortify, shorten, and to stop the flux of the belly. Whosoever also shall see and consider the nature of Steel, which is of an earthy quality, heavy, thick, cold, and dry, will (methinks) hardly be induced to believe that it is good against obstructions, but rather more fit to increase them, and yet for all that the best Physicians do prescribe it as the chiefest remedy against them. This difficulty is resolved; for supposing that Steel has several gross and earthy parts, there be some Sulphureous, and Mercurial; whereby it is opening, and takes away Obstructions. 'tis true, that this does not appear, but by means of the way and preparation thereof, which is that in pounding, grinding, and beating it into a very fine powder, its Sulphureous and Mercurial parts, as being active subtle, and incisive, mingle themselves so perfectly and exactly with the terrestrial and astringent, that being thus mingled the one with the other, one cannot affirm that the Steel is astringent, but rather that it is incisive, attenuates, and removes obstructions. We will prove this opinion by several Doctrines, and first that of Galen, who in the Third Book Of the Faculties of simple Drugs, in the 14. chapter, at the beginning thereof; saith, That all Drugs, that are simple to the outward appearance, are altogether mixed, and by this means have contrary qualities, that is to expel, and to retain; to thicken, and subtillize; to condense, and rarify; of which there is no wonder, since that the same Drugs hath the power to heat, and make cold, to moisten or dry, and that in every Drug or Medicament there are found parts subtle and gross, thick and thin, soft and hard, and in the following Chapter of the same Book; he asserts the example of an old Cock, the broth whereof loosened the belly, but its flesh was binding; and also of Aloes, the which being washed, immediately loses its purgative virtue, or that which remains thereof is very feeble. Then that this difference of the virtues and qualities is found in different parts or substances of Medicaments, Galen shows in his 1. Book Of the Power of Medicaments, c. 17. Where he particularly instances of Milk, wherein is found, and from which is separated three distinct substances, to wit, the Cheese, which hinders and stops the flux of the Belly, the serosity or Cream which is purgative, and the Butter which nourishes, as he himself has explained it in the Third Book Of Aliments, and in the fifteenth Chapter. This is manifestly experimented in the Must or new Wine, which likewise has three different Substances, the Terrestrial, which are the Lees; the Subtlety, which is the Flower or the Scum thereof; and a third which is properly the Wine; and each of these Substances has its different faculties and virtues, in colour, taste, and in other Accidents. Aristotle in his fourth Book of Meteors, Chap. 1. treating of Putrefaction or Rottenness, acknowledgeth these different Substances; as the more curious, if they will take the pains, may see at large in the following Chapter of the same Author, and so according to the opinion of Galen and Aristotle, different Substances are assigned to each mixed part, under the same form, and quantity, which is very agreeable to reason, if we consider that of each Aliment, how simple soever it be, there is produced, and engendered in the Liver four humours, not only different in temperament, but also in substance, and there is engendered more or less of such a humour, according as such an aliment has more or less parts conformable to the substance of the humour, which will be produced in a greater quantity: And so to cold diseases we order hot food, and to hot we prescribe cool. From these so evident examples, and from divers others, one may gather, that when the Cacao is pounded and beaten, the substances which it has naturally different, in it divers parts are so artificially, and exactly mingled and joined, the one with the other, the fat and buttery, hot and moist, with the terrestrial, cold, and dry, (as is aforesaid of the Steel) that these last are quelled and corrected, so that they are no longer so astringent as before, but with a mediocrity or moderation more inclining to a hot and moist temperament of the Air, then to the cold and dry of the Earth, as is manifest, when we reduce this Cacao to a Drink: [Maradon in his Dialogue says it is made like a Spindle wherewith they spin the thread in Spain] for scarce can one give two turns with the Mill, which is an instrument of Wood they employ for that purpose, but you may see a thick scum, which is a clear proof, that there are a great many buttery parts in the Cacao. By this abovesaid we manifest, that those Physicians are very much deceived, touching the Chocolate, who affirm, that it causes Obstructions because the Cacao is astringent, as if the costiveness where not enough corrected by the exact mixture of the parts, one with the other; besides, as has been said, the grinding, and there being with the Cacao, so many other ingredients hot of their own Nature, it must necessarily happen, that they work their effects, which is to cut and attenuate, and not at all to stop or obstruct, and certainly there is no need of other examples or doctrines, as a proof to confirm this truth, then that which we see in the very Cacao; the which if it be not pounded, and prepared as we have shown in the making of the Chocolate, [as also the eating thereof, as it is in the fruit, by the Spanish women born in the Indies] causes stoppages and notable obstructions by no other reason, but that the divers substances and parts are not so exactly and perfectly mingled together, by the chewing alone, as they are by the artificial grinding which they use therein: Furthermore our adverse part ought to consider, and call to mind the first Rudiments and Principles of Philosophy, which say, that from a particular proposition, & a dicto secundum quid, we must not draw from thence a general & ad dictum simpliciter, so that it serves for nothing, to say this man has white teeth, by consequence this man is white; for it may happen, that a man that has white teeth may be black; in like manner 'tis a foolish thing to say the Cacao is astringent, that by consequence therefore the confection which is made thereof and of other ingredients is astringent. The Tree which bears this fruit is so delicate, and the ground where it grows so excessively hot, that for fear the Sun should burn and dry it up, they plant there the Plantain or Bonona tree to be a shade, and defence to them, to secure them from the parching beams of the too near Sun, and when these are great, and grown up they plant under them the Cacao Tree, (those Trees the Indian call Athlynam, vulgarly the Mothers of the Cacao) to the end, that when the young and tender Tree shall spring up out of the earth, the others may serve as a Canopy to them. It's fruit also is not naked, or uncovered, but ten or twelve Cacao Nuts are as it were wedged, and enclosed in the same shell, just like a little gourd, as big as an early fig, and sometimes bigger, of the same colour and form with the said fig. There be two sorts of the Cacao, the one is ordinarily of a Brown colour inclining to a reddish, and the other bigger and larger, called Patlaxte, the which is great and very drying, and which by that means keeps persons awake, and hinders sleeping, and therefore that's the reason, that this is not so proper as the ordinary Cacao, and this is all that can be said, touching this Fruit. As for the other ingredients which go to the making of your Confection of Chocolate, I find many different sorts, some put therein black Pepper or Tavases, the which as being very hot and dry does not agree but with those whose Liver is very cold. An eminent Doctor of Physic of the University of Mexico is of the same opinion, who, as likewise a certain Religious man, worthy to be credited has assured me, that it seeming to him, that black pepper was not very proper in Chocolate, to prove his opinion, and to make manifest that the pepper of Mexico, called Chile, is far the better, tried this experiment in the Liver of a Sheep, in half of which having put black pepper, and in the other half pepper of Mexico, in four and twenty hours he found that part, wherein the black pepper was, quite dried up, but the other, that had the Mexico pepper, moist and juicy as if nothing had been put therein. The Receipt of our Physician of Merchena to make Chocolate is thus: Take seven hundred Cacao Nuts, a pound and a half of white Sugar, two ounces of Cinnamon, fourteen grains of Mexico Pepper, called Chile or Pimiento, half an ounce of Cloves, three little Straws or Vanillas de Campeche, or for want thereof, as much Annis-seed a● will equal the weight of a shilling, o● Achiot a small quantity as big as a Filbeard, which may be sufficient only to giv● it a colour; some add thereto Almonds● Filbeards, and the Water of Orang● Flowers. Touching this Receipt; I affirm ●●ist of all, that by following this form ●ne cannot fit the infirmities of every ●an that is indisposed, but we must 〈◊〉 thereto or take away according to the necessities and temperament of each one. As for the Sugar, though they put thereof when they drink the Chocolate, I do not judge it inconvenient to mingle therewith the quantity which I shall name. The Ladies also, and Gentlewomen of Mexico, ●ake little delicate Cakes of Chocolate 〈◊〉 daintiness, which are sold likewise in the Shops, to be eaten just as Sweetmeats. The Cloves which the same Author uses in this composition are not allowed by those that well understand the manner of making this Drink; grounded perhaps on this reason, that they bind the belly, though they have the property to correct the stinking breath, and ill smell of the mouth, as is shown by a learned person in these Verses, Faetorem emendant oris Carisophila faedum Constringunt ventrem primaque membra juvant. that is to say, that Cloves make a swee● breath, stop the looseness of the Belly● and eases the stomach, when it is troubled with a hard digestion. And so these Cloves being astringent, one ought not to make use of them, altho' they be hot and dry in the third degree, and though it aids the parts of Concoction, as is showed in those Verses. Every body uses in this confection and puts therein certain little straws, or as the Spaniards call them Vanillas de Campeche. The Description of which I have not seen in any Author, nor of the Plant which produces them, they seem to have deduced their Name from a certain Town called Campeche, which is in the Province of Yu●atan in New-Spain, as likewise a kind of Brasil wood, which they call the Wood of Campeche, which the Dyers employ very much in their trade, and of which there is great abundance brought into Europe. They fetch it from the West Indies, and are of an opinion that it is gathered from a little shrub called Cucuraqua, by the Tarasquains, and Quammochetl Xuitzquahuitl by the Mexicans; but this Wood has nothing of affinity with our Vanillas which are used in making the Chocolate, the which are very pleasant to the sight; they have the smell as it were of Fennel, and perhaps not much different in quality, for all hold that they do not heat too much, and do not hinder the adding Annis-seed, as the Author of Merchena seems to intimate in his Receipt: It being certain that they never make Chocolate without Annis-seed, for being hot in the third degree it is very proper in many cold distempers, and allays the coldness of the Cacao Nut, and to the end that you may know for what cold Members it may be useful and necessary I will here repeat the Verses of a curious person; Morbosos renes, Vesicam, guttura, Vulvam Intestina, jecur, cumque liene caput Confortat, variisque anisum subdita morbis Membra, istud tantum vim leave semen habet. Which in English is, the Annis-seed through its sovereign Virtue cures, the diseased and infected Kidneys, the Throat, the Bladder, the Matrice, the Members brought under and weakened with divers diseases, so great is the force and power of that little inconsiderable Seed: The Achiote is a certain dye or tincture drawn from a fruit-Tree which some call Achiotl others Changuarica, and others Pamaqua, take it as it is described by Francis Ximenes in the fifth book at the third Chapter, it is says he a Tree, in greatness, body, and shape very like the Orange Tree, its Leaves are like those of the Elm in Colour and roughness, its Bark, Body, and Branches are reddish drawing to a Green, its flowers are large, distinguished or divided into five Leaves in the shape of a Star, of a whitish Purple Colour, its fruit is like the outward Shell of a Chestnut, of the form and bigness of a little green Almond, Quadrangular or four Square, which being ripe opens itself containing certain grains or Stone● like those of the Raisins, but much more round. The Savages and Natives of the Country have it in great Esteem; and Plant it near their houses, 'tis green all the year round, and bears its Fruit in Spring time, at which time they have a custom to lop it, for out of its wood they Strike Fire as with a Flintstone, its bark is very proper to make Ropes, which shall be stronger than that which is made of Hemp itself, of its seed they make a Crimson red tincture, which the Painters employ in their Colours, they make use of it also in Physic, for being of a cold quality, and being drunk with some Water of the same Nature, or applied to the outward parts, allays the ardour and burning of the Fever, hinders the dysentery or gripping of the Guts, lastly they mix it with great profit and success in all the cooling potions, whence it happens that they mix it with the drink of Chocolate to cool, and to give it a taste and fine colour, sed haec obiter. Now this Achiote in the quantity of a Nut is not sufficient to Colour so great a quantity of ingredients contained in the receipt, that must be left to the Judgement of him that composes this confection, who shall use as much as he shall think sufficient to give it a good Colour. It is no small good to add thereto Almonds, (Here our Author speaking of Almonds, means those of the Indies and not our European ones, the description of which we will give you as joseph Acosta has it in his Natural History, Book 39 Chap. 26. Of Indian Almonds. There is another kind of Cacao's which have in their Shell a number of small nuts like Almonds, of the shape of the Pomegranate grains 〈◊〉 these Almonds are three times as big as those of Castille, and resemble them in taste, although they are a little more rough, and are also humid, moist, and oily; 'tis a reasonable good food, they do also use it in Sweet meats for want of Almonds to make Marchpanes, and other such like things, they call them▪ Almonds of the Andes, because these Cacao's grow abundant on the high Mountains called the Andes in Peru, and they are so hard and strong, that to open them they are wont to strike them with a huge Stone with all their force; when they fall from the Tree if they meet with the head of any one they will hinder his journey from going further. And it seems to be a thing incredible, that in the crevices or hollow of these Cacao's, which are not bigger, or but little more than the others there should be such a vast number and quantity of those Almonds; but concerning these Almonds, both these and all the other Fruits in like manner, must give place to the Almonds de Chachapoyas, the which I know not how otherwise to name: This Fruit is the most wholesome delicate and dainty of all that I ever saw in the Indies: Even a Learned Physician assured me that amongst all the fruits which are found either in the Indies or in Spain none came near the excellence of these Almonds. There be some of these that be bigger, others less than those of the Andes, yet all of them are bigger than them of Castil●e. They are very tender, have very much substance and juice, very oily, and very agreeable to the taste; they grow upon high tall Trees, very thick of leaves, and as it is a precious thing, Nature has bestowed on it a coverture and defence almost impregnable, it has a Skin or Shell something bigger and more pointed then that of a Chestnut, nevertheless, when this is dry they get the Kernel out very easily. They report that the Apes which are very greedy and desirous of this fruit, of which Creature the Country of Chachapoyas in Peru does greatly abound, (which is the only Country I know of, that has this sort of Tree) who to break the Shell and to get the Almond from thence, they strongly throw it from the tops of the boughs upon the stones, and so having broken it, they make an end of eating it at their pleasure. The Filbeards also are far better than the Maiz or Panis which some are wont to put therein to give a better body, and strength to the Composition, and therefore I would use them in all sorts of Chocolate, for besides all the commodities, and advantages, which I have here before counted, they are moderately hot and have a delicate juice, especially the dry ones, the green and the new being in no wise proper, but rather hurtful according as a Learned man has expressed in these Verses Dat modicum calidum dulcisque amygdala succum. Et tenuem inducant plurima damna novae. Then the Filberts are not unnecessary, Christopher Acosta in his book Of Spices Chap. 18. describes the Indian Filberts after this manner: The Tree is a very great Tree, straight, smooth, round, and of a spongy matter or substance, its leaves are longer and larger than that of the Palm Tree which bears the Cacao's, and which bud out of the very top of the Tree, amongst which there spring out little smooth branches, full of small white flowers, and almost without any smell, whence proceeds the fruit called Areca, as big as walnuts, yet not altogether round, but Oval in the form or shape of a little Pullet's egg, the outward Skin is wonderfully green before it becomes ripe, being ripe it becomes very yellow, like Dates that are fully ripe; this Skin▪ or Shell is of a soft and Shaggy substance, which contains a Kernel as big as a large Chesnut, white, hard, and full of little red Veins, which the inhabitants eat; being yet green they put it under the Sand, to render it better and more agreeable to the taste, sometimes they eat it mixed with the leaves of Bethel, other times they break it, and dry it in the Sun, and afterwards make great use thereof in their eating, and in their astringent potions, with the Skin they clean their Teeth. There is another kind of Filbert which grows in the Isle of St. Dominico, which is purgative, but this is not that they mix with the Chocolate. These Filherts therefore I say, are not altogether unuseful, since that they have the same temperament or Nature with the Almonds though being dryer, they come more near to a Choleric temperament, but they have also this good, they corroborate the Stomach, and Belly being well dried before the fire, and as it were broiled, as they Prepare it for this composition: moreover they hinder the fumes of the Stomach from rising up into the Brains as the same Author writes. Bilis Avellanam sequitur, sed roborat alvum Ventris & a f●mis liberat assa caput. That is to say, the Filbert engenders melancholy humours, but it strenghens the weak Stomach, and being well roasted, allays and depresses those fumes which would otherwise disturb the brains, and it is therefore very necessary for those that are troubled with Windiness, and Fumes, which from the Spleen rise up into the brain, and fill the head with turbulent dreams, and frightful imaginations. Those that mix Maiz or Panich in the Ch●colate do very ill for they beget bilious and melancholy humours as is evident from the said Author, Crassa Melancholicum praestant tibi panica succum. Siccant si ponas membra gelantque foris. It is very certain that both the one and the other begets Choler and Windyness, and that they do not make use of this ingredient but for their own profit and to augment the quantity of the Chocolate, each bushel of Maiz costing them but eight Shillings, bringing each pound to four Shillings which is the true price of the Chocolate. This which the Indians call Maiz we call Indian or Turky-Wheat, which being so common amongst us there is no need to treat thereof any further, yet I cannot forbear to mention that of Francis Ximenes in his third Book Chap. 7. who seems to contradict our Author speaking of it very advantageously in these terms. The difference of the Maiz is in the Colour of its ears, (which the Vulgar call Mazercas) of which there is a greet difference, for some are of a white Colour, others red, there be some that are almost black, others purple, blue, and diversified or sprinkled with divers Colours, which is to be understood of the upper skin, for the flower of each is white; as to the rest if there be any Corn that God has made of a temperate quality and great nourishment without doubt it is the Maiz (which the Mexicans call Theolli) for it is neither hot, nor cold, but a mean betwixt both, as also neither moist, nor dry, but equally participating of both temperaments, far from being of a gross and Viscuous nourishment, as some have imagined: They also are very much deceived that affirm it begets obstructions, but one may clearly see the contrary in the Savages, who live upon it and are altogether unacquainted with oppilations, and obstructions, and are never troubled with a pale and sickly complexion; but they assure us that it is of an easy digestion, and sharpens the Appetite: That even before the coming of the Spaniards they never knew what were the pain of the Stone or Gravel in the Kidneys, in fine the Savages have not a better and more expedient remedy than this to resist the sharp diseases, the which experience does sufficiently testify, for Maiz boiled in Water does abundantly nourish the body, and is digested without any trouble or difficulty, it qualifies and softens the breast, mitigates the heat or burning of Fevers; chiefly the powder of its Root, steeped in Water, and exposed to the cold of the Evening and afterwards drunk. Then this Maiz boiled is not only a laudable and wholesome food, but it may also be given without fear as well to those that are sick, as to those that are in good health; to young as well as to Old; to Men and to Women of what condition soever they be, and lastly it may be used in all Distempers without any hurt, or trouble, they say moreover that it provokes Urine, and cleanses the Pipes. Then since that the Maiz, used as it ought to be, brings along with it a thousand Commodities, and no damages (unless as some affirm it breeds too much Blood and choler) one ought not to hearken to those who affirm that it is hotter than our ordinary wheat, that it is difficultly digested, and that it begets Obstructions, let us rather follow the Mexican Physicians, who having rejected the Ptisana or Barley broth, as troublesome, to the distempered persons have constituted in its place, the Atolle of which we will speak hereafter, I'll pass over in silence the manner of making the bread of Maiz as being nothing to our purpose, and too much a digression; the other thing is the Panic or Indian Oatmeal, which is a small grain like unto millet with a knob full of Corn, though the vulgar European Panic is not here meant, but that which grows in the Indies, which if the Reader has a mind to satisfy his curiosity he shall find more at large described by Dodonné in the fourth part of his History Of Plants book the 7. Chap. 26. and by Dalechart in the great Herbalest book 4. Chap. 20. The next ingredient is the Cinnamon, but it seems our Author means the Cinnamon of the West-Indies, and not that of the East-Indies, which was unknown in New-Spain before the Spaniards had discovered it. This Cinnamon is described by Monardes' in his History Of Plants Chap. 25. Laet in his tenth Book Chap. 26. says that the Cinnamon Tree is as big as the Olive Tree, producing certain little purses with their Flowers, which being pounded, come near in some sort to the East-Indian Cinnamon. Monardes' takes notice that they do rather make use of their Fruit than of their bark, and that being beaten to a powder they fortify the Stomach, disperse the Wind, make good breath, take away the pains of the belly, comforts the heart gives a good Colour to the food being mixed therewith just like the true Cinnamon. This Cinnamon therefore is hot and dry in the third degree, it is good for the Urine and the reins, expels cold distempers, 'tis also useful for the eyes, and in effect it is a Cordial as a certain Author says. Commoda & urinae Cinnamomum & renebus affe●t. Lumina clarificat, dira venena fugat. The Achiote [the Virtue which our Author attributes to the Achiote is different from what Ximenes reports thereof, for the one holds it to be refreshing, the other that it heats, yet it is not of great importance whatsoever is the quality thereof considering the small quantity that is made use of in the Chocolate] has a cutting and attenuating heat, as is evident by the ordinary practice of the Indian Physicians, who having proved its effects do judge it to be cutting, and rarifiing the gross humours, causing shortness of breath, which they call Asthma and the stoppage of the Urine and therefore 'tis profitable and useful against all sorts of Oppilations, which we endeavour to overcome, whither they be in the breast or in the region of the belly, or in whatsoever part they be. As for the Chiles some hold there are b●t two sorts of Chiles or Chilli, the one the Eastern which is Ginger, and the other Western, which is the Pepper of Mexico, the same they call pepper of Tobasco, because it grows in great abundance in that Province of New-Spain, from whence it takes its Name. Our Author makes thereof four kinds, but others make more, of which number is the Father john Eusebius in the 15 Book of his History Chap. 80. to which I refer the curious. Laet in the last Chapter of his 5th. Book says, that this fruit grows on a Domestic or Garden Tree called Xocoxochitl, the which is very big, whose leaves are like those of the Orange tree, and yield a very odoriferous smell; its flowers are red like those of the Pomegranate tree, the same Smell as the Orange, very sweet and agreeable, its fruit is round, and hanging like Grapes, which at first are green, a while after red, and at last black, of a sharp and biting taste, and of a good smell, hot and dry in the third degree, so that it may be used instead of Pepper, the Apothecaries may employ it to the same use as Carpobalsamum, the Spaniards call it pepper of Tavasco. I affirm that there be thereof four Sorts: The first are called Chilcotes, the second, which are very little, Chiltecpin, which two sorts are very sharp and mordicant; the third are called Tonachiles, which are moderately hot, so that they eat them with bread just as they do other fruit, although they have a bitterish taste; and they grow no where but in the Marshes of Mexico, the fourth sort is called Chilpatlagua, which was a kind of Chiles or Pimientoes very large, they are not so biting as the two former, nor so mild as the third, and they are those which are used in Chocolate. There be other ingredients that they put into this composition, the chief of which they call Mecasuchil. This Plant is described by Laet in his fifth Book, Chap. 4. There is an Herb (he says) by name Mecaxuchitl creeping upon the earth, whose leaves are great, thick, and almost round, sweet-smelling, and of a sharp taste, it bears a fruit like long pepper, the which they mix with the drink of the Cacao, called Chocolate, to which it gives an agreeable savour, it corroborates the heart and the Stomach, attenuates the thick and slow humours, and is an excellent Medicine, and Antidote against poison, it's other virtues, as likewise the figure of its fruit, are more fully set out by jean Eusebe, Book 14. chap. 62. Another ingredient is the Vinacaxtli, but here I fear mine Author may be deceived, or that there has been a mistake in the Printing, and instead of Vinacaxtli, he should have put Huclimacutzli, which is a Tree the flower whereof is called by the Spaniards, Flor de la Oreja, or Flower of the ear, because of its near resemblance with the ear: It is composed, says Laet lib. 5. cap. 4. of purple Flowers within, and green without, it is of a very sweet and pleasant smell, the name Xuchinacutzli in our Language signifies little ears, which are flowers odoriferous, aromatic and hot. The Mecasuchil is purgative, and the Indians make thereof a purging Syrup. Those that live in Europe for went of Mecasuchil may put therein powder of Roses of Alexandria, for those that have a mind to loosen their belly. There be two other ingredients of which our Author being silent we are forced to supply his defect, the one is the flower of a certain pitchy or rosi'ny tree, which yields a gum like that of the Storax, but of a finer colour, its flower is like that of the Orange tree, of a good smell, which they mix with the Chocolate, and repute it good for the stomach; the other ingredient is the shalt or cod of the Tlixochitl, which is a creeping herb having leaves like the Plantain, but longer, and thick, it climbs up to the top of the trees, and entwines itself with them, and bears a shalt long, straight, and as it were round, which smells of the balm of new Spain, they mix this shalt with their famous drink of Cacao: their pith is black full of little seeds, like that of the poppy, they say that two of these steeped in water provoke urine wonderfully. See Laet Book 5. ch. 7. I have reported all these ingredients to the end that those that have need may choose those which they shall think most useful for the Distempers wherewith they are molested. THE SECOND PART. IN this Second Part, we must observe that though they mix with the Cacao, all these hot ingredients, yet for all that the quantity of the Cacao is greater than all the rest, so that the others serve only to allay, and temperate the coldness of the Cacao, so that of two medicaments of contrary qualities, we artificially compose one, which is temperate, and moderate, just so by the action and reaction of the cold parts of the Cacao, the Chocolate receives a temperate and moderate quality, very little different from a mediocrity or mean between both, and when we shall venture to say that (in leaving out of the Chocolate, both pepper and cloves, and only putting therein a little annis-feed, as we will show hereafter) it is purely temperate, we are able to prove it both by experience and reason: First by experience; (supposing that which Galen says, That every temperate Medicament heats that which is cold, and cools that which is hot, giving for example the Oil of Roses) with experience I say, grounded on the practice and custom which they have amongst them, in the Indies, for (I coming very much heated to visit one of my Patients, when I desired some water of them to cool myself) they advised me to take a Dish of Chocolate, with which I quenched my thirst, but taking it the next morning fasting it heated me and fortified my Stomach. Now let us prove this opinion by reason, we have before demonstrated that all the parts of the Cacao were not cold; for we have showed, that the buttery and oily parts, which are in great number are hot, or at least temperate. Then although it be true, that the quantity of the Cacao put into the Chocolate is greater and stronger than all the other ingredients together, the cold parts which correspond therewith do not amount at furthest but to the moiety, and so that although all together come to surpass it, seeing that it remains something allayed, by the grinding, or rubbing together, by the means of the hot and buttery parts of the Cacao, and again on the otherside by the other ingredients that are hot in the second and third degree, it must needs be reduced to a mediocrity. Just as we see in two persons, that join their hands together, whereof the hands of the one are cold, and the others hot, those that are hot grow cold, and the cold hot, and finally both the one and the other, remain without that excess of heat, or cold which they had before, and at last become temperate. Like this does it happen to those that wrestle, at first they have their Forces strong and entire, but at last, by the action and reaction of the two adversaries striving together, they enfeeble and weaken themselves, so that the wrestling being ended, they remain weakened both the one and the other. 'Tis the opinion of Aristotle, in the fourth Book Of the generation of Animals, Chap. 3. He says, that every Agent suffers as the Patient, so that we see, that which cuts is blunted by the thing that is cut, that that which heats is cooled, and that which pusheth or thrusteth is in some manner thrust back and repulsed. Hence I gather, that it is better to make use of the Chocolate sometime after it has been made than to take of it whilst new and fresh, but you must let it stand at the least a whole month together, for I judge so long time to be necessary, and very expedient, to the end that the contrary qualities may weaken and spend themselves, and be reduced to a convenient temperament and mediocrity; for it might happen that in the beginning each contrary would impress and work its effect, and nature cannot endure to be heated and cooled at the same time. That is therefore the Reason that Galen in his Twelfth Book of the Method, advises us to tarry a whole year, or at least six months, before we make use of the Philonium▪ because in its composition there is put the juice of Poppies called Opium, which is cold in the fourth degree, and Pepper with other ingredients, that are hot in the third degree. And this doctrine is confirmed by the practice of several learned Physicians, whom I have desired to inform me which was the best Chocolate, they presently answered me, that which has been kept several months, and the fresh and newly made Chocolate, did do them a great deal of hurt, and did very much loosen and relax their Stomach, which in my opinion is very probable; for the fat and buttery parts, are not altogether corrected by the earthy parts of the Cacao, which I will prove by the reason I shall bring hereafter, that if you should take a dish of Chocolate to drink, that which is thick and buttery thereof separates itself from the rest, and relaxes the Stomach, (although it be old) as if it were but just made. Therefore to conclude this Second Part, we must acknowledge that the Chocolate is not so cold as the Cacao, nor is it so hot as the other ingredients, but from the action and reaction thereof, there proceeds a moderate complexion, or temper which may agree with, and serve as well for the stomaches that be cold, as those that are hot, provided it be took in an indifferent quantity, as I will show you by and by, and that it has been made a whole month, as is said before, so that I know not any one, who having experimented this confection (made as it is convenient for every individual) can speak ill thereof, or in any wise discommend it: besides that all the world generally using it, there is scarce any one, that does not highly approve of it, through all Europe, as well as in the Indies. I know not therefore what reason any one has to say that Chocolate causes obstructions, for if it should be so, and the Liver become obstructed, it would bring a leanness on all the Body, but experience teaches us the contrary, for we see nothing fattens more than Chocolate, whereof I will give the reason hereafter, and so much for this Second Part. Proceed we now to the Third. THE THIRD PART. IN the First Part having treated of Chocolate, and given you the definition thereof, as likewise the quality of the Cacao, and the other ingredients: And in the Second of the temperament or complexion, which results from the mixture of the said ingredient. In this third Part it remains to show you how they mix it: But first I judge it not unnecessary to give you the best receipt thereof, and the most convenient I could find, and though I have said before, that it is impossible to give a Receipt, that may be proper and agreeable to all sort of Persons, but that is meant for those that are distempered, and not well in health; for to those that are in good health, this here is most fit and convenient; but for the others (as I have showed at the end of the First part) each one may choose the ingredients according as they shall be most needful to one or other distempered part of his body. This therefore is the Receipt, With each hundred of Cacao's you must mingle two grains of Chile, or Pepper of Mexico, of those great Grains which we have elsewhere told you are called Chilpatlagua, and for want of them they use to take two Indian Pepper corns, the largest and the least hot that you can find, or if you can get them the Pimiento's of Spain, an handful of Annis-seed, two of those Flowers called Xuchinachutzli or little ears, and two others named Mecasuchil, if there be need to loosen the Belly: In Spain instead of these last they are wont to use the powder of six Roses of Alexandria, vulgarly called pale Roses, a little Bean Cod or Vanilla de Campeche, two drams of Cinnamon, a dozen of Almonds, and as many Filberts, half a pound of Sugar, such a quantity of Achiote as shall be sufficieut to colour the whole composition. The way of making Chocolate. The Cacao and the other ingredients are pounded and beaten on a Stone, which the Indians call Metatl, made for that purpose. The first thing they begin to do is to broyl well, and carefully to dry before the fire all the ingredients (except the Achiote) to the end that they may be easily pounded and broken, but in the broiling of them before the fire, there must be great heed taken, that they be often turned and stirred about, for fear of burning or becoming black; besides which, they being too much done, lose their virtue and receive a bitter taste. The Cinnamon and the Pepper of Mexico ought to be first pounded, and the latter of them should be beaten together with the Annis-seed: The Cacao is that which is to be last of all beaten, but by little and little, till you think there is so much as may be sufficient for your purpose, and every time you must give it three or four turns in the Mortar. You must also take care that every one is beaten severally, and by itself, having beaten all these ingredients to a fine powder, you put them altogether in a Vessel, where the Cacao is, and these powders they stir and mix with a spoon, and presently they take of this past, which they begin again to pound in Mortar (or rather if they have it the forementioned Stone) under which they make a gentle fire, taking special heed, that they do not make it too gr●at and too quick, nor that you heat it too much, for fear of scattering and dissipating the buttery parts. You must also take notice, that in pounding the Cacao you mix the Achiote therewith, to the end that you may give it a better colour, and the tincture may remain, and be the better implanted therein. The Powder of each ingredient, except that only of the Cacao must be well sifted, and if you peel the Cacao, and take it out of its little shell, the drink thereof will be more dainty and delicious. Then when all shall seem to be well mixed and incorporated (the which you may easily know if you find it without the least straw or lump) you shall take with a spoon of this mass, which will be almost all melted and dissolved (whereof they make little Cakes) and and put into boxes, which by that time it is cold will become hard and firm. You must observe nevertheless, that to make these Cakes they throw a spoonful of the Liquor on some paper, or as in the Indies on some great leaves, like those of the Planetree, our Author means here the Indian planetree and not that of Europe, for the Platanus of the Indies was so named by the Spaniards for reasons that are unknown to us, for it has no resemblance with our Planetree, but it is rather like the Palm tree, as well in shape as in the bigness of the leaves, which are so large, that they cover a man from head to foot. 'tis also observable, that these leaves serve for the same use as paper with us: But to the purpose; two or three spoonfuls being thus put on one of these leaves, and set in the shade, do soon grow hard, and afterwards folding or doubling the paper, those Cakes, as being very fat, are easily separated from the paper: But if you should pour it into some earthen Vessel, or on some board it is not easy to unfasten those Cakes, or get them off whole. They drink this liquour in the Indies two ways, of which the first and most ordinary is to take it hot with Atholle, an ancient Drink of the Indians, who call by this name, a Drink made of the flower of Maiz, well steeped in Water, and boiled to a clear Liquor, or rather like starch; but there be other different sorts thereof which are excellently well described by Laet in his 7th. Book Chap. 3. which the curious may consult at their leisure: That discourse being too great a digression to be here inserted. With this Liquor the Indians mix their Chocolate, and to make it more wholesome they clear the Maiz, by taking away the upper skin, which is Windy, and begets melancholic humours, and so there remains the best and most substantial thereof: Return we now to the second manner, of taking it, which is the modern and has been introduced since the Spaniards have made use of this Chocolate, the which is also two fold. The first is to steep or dissolve the Chocolate in cold Water, and to take off the scum which they put into another dish, then to set the remainder over the fire, putting therein as much Sugar as you shall judge convenient to sweeten it, and lastly it being hot and having mixed the Scum therewith, which you had set apart, you may drink it. Before I give you the other way of making this Liquor 'twill not be amiss to describe the Cup or Goblet wherein they drink the Chocolate, made of Xicara, or Coco, which the Mexicans call Tecomates. They also make them of the fruit of a certain Tree called by the Spaniards Higuero, the Tree is very big▪ which bears leaves in shape and largeness like to our Mulberry Tree, and has a fruit like the gourd, whereof the Savages make Cups to drink their Chocolate, as to the Palms which bear these Cocoes I have nothing to say to them, which yet are one of the stupendious Miracles of Nature, I shall only take notice with the Learned Doctor Paludanus, in his remark on the Voyage of Linschot, that the Coco is covered with two barks, the first whereof is rough, and hairy, of which they make the Cables and Cordage of a Ship, of the next Shell they make these Cups; the common opinion being that these Cups have an innate virtue (of which the Chocolate being put therein participates) against the Apoplexy. Sed haec o biter. To the purpose therefore. The Second way of preparing this liquor is to heat the water, putting into this forementioned Cup, as much Chocolate as is thereto necessary, and withal a little water, then working the Chocolate and incorporating it till it be well mixed, and dissolved all in the Cup, put the rest of your hot water with some Sugar therein, and so drink it: Thus in Spain. But we in England usually boil the Chocolate with the water, and some to make it more dainty, though less wholesome, use therein Eggs and Milk. There is yet another way, something different from this former, for they boil both the Chocolate and water together till there swims at top a fat buttery substance, taking care, that there is not too great a fire to make it boil over: But this way I do in no wise approve of, for the fat separating itself from the earthy parts, this sinks to the bottom, and the other keeps at top, so that being thus drunk, the first loosens the stomach, and takes away the appetite, and the latter causes melancholy, etc. There is another way of making this drink of Chocolate, which is cold, which takes its name from its principal ingredient, and is therefore called Chocolate, whereof they take to refresh themselves, and is made after this manner. They steep the Chocolate powdered into a little water, working it well with the little Mill, whence they abstract a very large scum, which is so much the more augmented by how much the Cacao is more old, and rotten, this scum they put into a dish a part, mixing therewith a sufficient quantity of Sugar, which done they set it up for their use, and drink it cold, when they find they have need thereof, but it is to be understood, that they do not take this sort in Winter, but in the greatest heat of Summer, yet thus prepared it is so extraordinary cooling, that it does not agree with all stomaches, for experience shows the ill thereof, it causing distempers in the stomach, and chiefly to Women. I would here give you the cause and reason thereof, but I shall omit it, that I may not seem too prolix, and to trespass on the Readers patience. There is also another way of drinking it cold, which so prepared is called Cacao Pinoli, it is made in adding to the same Chocolate (after having made the confection as we have showed) an equal quantity of Maiz parched and pounded, but first well cleared of its skin, the which being beaten in the Mortar with the Chocolate becomes a powder and mingles itself with the other, and of the powders managed as we showed just before arises a Scum which they also take and use as the precedent drink. There is yet another shorter than the former ('Tis the same with ours) and therefore more fit for men of business, who have not the leisure to attend a longer preparation, the which is very wholesome, and 'tis that I make use of myself; whilst you set on the water to boil▪ you must take a Cake of Chocolate, which you may either pound in the Mortar, or rather grate it to a fine powder, mixing it with some Sugar, in a little pot, the water being hot you must pour the Chocolate therein, then taking it from the fire, work it well with your little Mill, and for want of that, brew it a score times, out of one pot into another, which yet does not so well incorporate it as the Mill; this being done, let it be drunk without separating from it the scum, as is usual in the aforesaid preparations. THE FOURTH PART. IN this last part it remains to show you in what quantity the Chocolate is to be drunk, in what time we must make use thereof, and to what persons 'tis most proper, and agreeable, for some using it too excessively, I do not mean only Chocolate, but also all sorts of food and Liquors, how good and excellent soever the things are in their own Nature, do thence receive great incommodities, and mischiefs, and if some persons do complain, that it causes obstructions, 'tis by reason of the excessive use thereof; just so we see Wine, which if excessively drunk instead of heating, breeds oftentimes cold Distempers, Nature not being able to surmount nor turn in its substance so great a quantity thereof; so likewise those that drink too much Chocolate, since that it has several fat parts, which cannot disperse themselves in the same quantity through all the body, it must necessarily follow that obstructions are caused by those which remain in the little Veins of the Liver, which may be remedied, if a Man will content himself with five or six ounces only of Chocolate in the Winter time, and if he that takes thereof is bilious and subject to melancholy, instead of drinking it with common Water let him use therewith Endive water, the same thing is to be done in the Summer, by those that would take it as a Medicine against the obstructions and hot Distempers of the Liver; but he that is troubled with the coldness of Liver, and full of obstructions shall take the same Chocolate with Water of Rhubard. In fine it may be safely (if regularly) used as long as till the month of May, especially if the air be temperate, but I do not at all approve the use thereof during the Dog-days, unless by those to whom it will do no hurt by reason of an habitual custom and continual use thereof. Then if any one stands in need thereof, even in the Dog-days, and if he be of an hot constitution, he shall take it mixed with Endive Water, from four days to four days, especially if in the morning he finds his Stomach to be weak, and feeble. And although it be very true, that in the Indies, which is a very hot Country they take it at all times, and that by consequence one might do the same in Spain and in our other European Countries, which are far less hot, nevertheless I answer thereto, that first we must attribute that to Custom. In the second place that the excessive heat of those Countries being jointly annexed to an excessive moistness, which helps to open the pores of the Body it happens oftentimes that there follows so great a dissipation or spending of the proper substance of the Body, that one might not only make use of Chocolate in the morning, but also all day long, without any injury or detriment. And it is also as true, that by the excessive heat of the Country the Natural heat is wasted, and exhaled, and that the heat of the Stomach and other interior parts of the body so extend, and spread themselves to the exterior, that notwithstanding this excess of heat the stomach remains cold, so that they receive great profit and advantage not only from Chocolate (the which as we have proved is moderately hot) but also from pure Wine, the which, though it be very hot does no hurt, but on the contrary, rather fortifies, and cherishes the Stomach; but if amongst these excessive heats, the Indians should drink Water, they would receive notable detriments by the coolness, which it would cause in the Stomach, whereby the concoction would be corrupted, and produce several other bad Distempers. You must take notice also, that the terrestrial parts, which we have said are in Cacao, sink to the bottom of the Cup, when you boil your Chocolate, yet there be some who think that which falls to the bottom is the best and most substantial of all, and therefore those that drink thereof do undergo great danger; but besides that this substance is earthy, thick, obstructive, it breeds melancholy humours, so that we must avoid it as much as we can, contenting ourselves with the best which is the most substantial. Lastly it remains to resolve one difficulty which I have lively touched here before, that is to say, what is the Cause that Chocolate does so much fatten those that drink thereof? For if we consider all the ingredients except the Cacao, we shall find that their quality is rather to extenuate; and make lean the body, than to fatten, as being all hot and dry, in the third degree. The qualities likewise of the Cacao, as we have showed you in the beginning, being cold and dry are altogether unfit to cause fatness. I affirm however that the great quantity of buttery parts, which I have proved to be in the Cacao, are those which fatten, and that the hot ingredients of this composition, serve instead of a Pipe or Conduit to derive it, and make it pass by the Liver, and the other parts till they arrive at the fleshy parts: Where finding a substance which is like and conformable to them, to wit hot and moist, such as are these buttery parts, converting themselves into the substance of the subject they augment, and fatten it. One might say several others things drawn from the fountain of Philosophy and Physic, but as being more fit for the Schools than for our discourse we shall omit them. I shall only take notice that to my Receipt one might add the Seeds of a Melon, Gourd or Valenzia (I could never find out what sort of drug this Valenzia is, however one may venture to say it is of the same Nature with the Seeds of a Cucumber,) the which beat to a powder will be extraordinary good for those that have the Liver, or the reins excessive hot, and if there happen any obstructions in the Liver or Spleen, with a cold intemperature, ●ou may mix amongst the rest the powder of Heart's tongue, or Ceterach, and with all these compositions to give thereto a good odour, you may put a little Ambergris or Musk. I shall receive no small satisfaction if this little Treatise and Discourse may be acceptable and agreeable to all the World. FINIS.