POMONA, OR AN APPENDIX CONCERNING FRUIT-TREES, In relation to CIDER, The Making, and several ways of Ordering it.  VIRG. Eclog. ix. 
— Carpent tua Poma nepotes.  
LONDON, Printed by john Martin and james Allestry, Printers to the Royal Society. MDCLXX.   

To the Right Honourable THOMAS Earl of SOUTHAMPTON, Lord HIGH TREASURER OF ENGLAND, etc.  
My Lord,  
IF great Examples did not support it, the dignity and greatness of your Person would soon have given cheque to this presumption: But since Emperors and Kings have not only gratefully accepted Works of this nature, but honoured them likewise with their own sacred hands, that Name of yours, (which ought indeed never to appear but on Instruments of State and fronts of Marble, consecrating your Wisdom and Virtues to Eternity) will be no way lessened by giving Patronage to these appendent Rusticities. It is from the Protection and Cherishment of such as your Lordship is, that these Endeavours of ours may hope one day to succeed and be prosperous. The noblest and most useful Structures have laid their Foundations in the Earth: if that prove firm here (and firm I pronounce it to be, if your Lordship favour it) We shall go on and flourish. I speak now in relation to the Royal Society, not myself, who am but a Servant of it only, and a Pioneer in the Works. But be its fate what it will, Your Lordship, who is a Builder, and a lover of all Magnificences, cannot be displeased at these agreeable Accessories of Planting, and of gardening. But, my Lord, I pretend by it yet some farther service to the State than that of merely profit, if in contributing to your divertisement I provide for the Public health, which is so precious and necessary to it in your excellent Person. Vouchsafe POMONA your Lordship's hand to kiss, and the humble Presenter of these Papers the honour of being esteemed,  
My Lord, Your most humble, and most obedient Servant I. EVELYN.   

POMONA, Or An APPENDIX Concerning FRUIT-TREES, In relation to CIDER: The Making, and several ways of Ordering it.  

THE PREFACE.  
SAt Quercus was the Proverb; 
〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉: in eos, qui relicto victu sordido, ad elegantiorem lautiorémque digrediuntur.  and it is now time to walk out of the Woods into the Fields a little, and to consider what Advancement may be there likewise made by the planting of FRUIT-TREES. For after the Earth is duly cultivated, and pregnant with a Crop of Grain; it is only by the Furniture of such Trees as bear Fruit, that it becomes capable of any farther Improvement. If then by discovering how this may best be effected I can but raise a worthy emulation in our Countrymen; this addition of noble Ornament, as well as of Wealth and Pleasure, Food and Wine, may (I presume) obtain some grateful admittance amongst all Promoters of Industry.  
But before I proceed, I must, and do ingenuously acknowledge, that I present my Reader here with very little of my own, save the pains of collecting and digesting a few dispersed Notes (but such as are to me exceedingly precious) which I have received; some from worthy, and most experienced 
* Especially, from the most excellently learned Dr. Beale of Teavil in Somerset-shire, a Member of the Royal Society.  Friends of mine; and others, from the well-furnished Registers, and Cimelia of the ROYAL SOCIETY. Especially, those Aphorisms, and Treatises relating to the History of Cider, which by express commands they have been pleased to enjoin I should publish with my Sylva.  
It is little more than an Age, since Hops (rather a Medical, than Alimental Vegetable) transmuted our wholesome Ale into Beer; which doubtless much altered our Constitutions: That one Ingredient (by some not unworthily suspected) preserving Drink indeed, and so by custom made agreeable; yet repaying the pleasure with tormenting Diseases, and a shorter life, may deservedly abate our fondness to it; especially, if with this be considered likewise, the casualties in planting it, as seldom succeeding more than once in three years; yet requiring constant charge and culture; Besides that it is none of the least devourers of young Timber.  
And what if a like care, or indeed one quarter of it, were (for the future) converted to the propagation of Fruit-trees, in all parts of this Nation, as it is already in some, for the benefit of Cider? (one Shire alone within twenty mile's compass, making no less, yearly, than Fifty thousand Hogsheads) the commutation would (I persuade myself) rob us of no great Advantage; but present us with one of the most delicious and wholesome Beverages in the World.  
It was by the plain Industry of one Harris (a Fruiterer to King Henry the Eighth) that the Fields, and Environs of about thirty Towns, in Kent only, were planted with Fruit, to the universal benefit, and general Improvement of that County to this day; as by the noble example of my Lord Scudamor, and of some other public-spirited Gentlemen in those parts, all Herefordshire is become, in a manner; but one entire Orchard; And when his Majesty shall once be pleased, to command the Planting but of some Acres, for the best Cider-fruit, at every of his Royal Mansions, amongst other of his most laudable Magnificences; Noblemen, wealthy Purchasers, and Citizens will (doubtless) follow the Example, till the preference of Cider, wholesome, and more natural Drinks, do quite vanquish Hopps, and banish all other Drogues of that nature.  
But this Improvement (say some) would be generally obstructed by the Tenant, and High-shoon-men, who are all for the present profit; their expectations seldom holding out above a year or two at most.  
To this 'tis answered; That therefore should the Lord of the Manor not only encourage the Work by his own Example, and by the Applause of such Tenants as can be courted to delight in these kinds of Improvements; but should also oblige them by Covenants to plant certain Proportions of them, and to preserve them being planted.  
To fortify this profitable Design, It were farther to be desired, that (if already there be not effectual provision for it, which wants only due execution and quickening) an Act of Parliament might be procured for the Setting but of two or three Trees in every Acre of Land that shall hereafter be enclosed, under the Forfeiture of sixpence per Tree, for some public and charitable Work, to be levied on the Defaulters. To what an innumerable multitude would this, in few years, insensibly mount; affording infinite proportions, and variety of Fruit throughout the Nation, which now takes a Potion for a refreshment, and drinks its very Breadcorn!  
I have seen a Calculation of twenty Fruit-trees to every Five- pounds of yearly Rent; forty to Ten; sixty to Fifteen; eighty to Twenty; and so according to the proportion. Had all our Commons, and Waste-lands one Fruit-tree but at every hundred foot distance, planted, and fenced at the public charge, for the benefit of the Poor, (whatever might die and miscarry) enough would escape able to maintain a Stock, which would afford them a most incredible relief. And the Hedg-rows, and the Champion-grounds, Land-divisions, Mounds, and Head-lands (where the Plough not coming, 'tis ever abandoned to Weeds and Briars) would add yet considerably to these Advantages, without detriment to any man.  
As touching the Species, if much have been said to the preference of the Red-strake before other Cider-Apples, this is to be added; That as the best Vines, of richest liquor, and greatest burden, do not spend much in wood and unprofitable branches; so nor does this Tree: for though other Cider may seem more pleasant (since we decline to give Judgement of what is unknown to us) we yet attain our purpose, if This shall appear best to reward the Planter, of any in present practice; especially, for the generality; because it will fit the most parts which are addicted to these Liquors, but miss of the right kinds, and prove the most secure from external injuries and Invaders.  
But not to refine any farther upon the rare effects of Cider, which is above all the most eminent, soberly to exhilerate the Spirits of us Hypocondriacal Islanders, and by a specific quality to chase away that unsociable Spleen, without excess; we must not forget that the very Blossom of the Fruit perfumes, and purifies the Ambient Air, which (as Dr Beal well observes in his Hereford-shire Orchards) is conceived conduces so much to the constant Health and Longaevity, for which that Country has been always celebrated, fencing their Habitations and sweet Recesses from Winds, and Winter-invasions, the heat of the Sun, and his unsufferable darts: 
Hereford sh. Orch. p. 8.  And if (saith he) we may acknowledge grateful trifles, for that they harbour a constant Aviary of sweet Singers, which are here retained without the charge of Italian wires: To which I cannot but add his following option, That if at any time we are in danger of being hindered from Trade in Foreign Countries, our English indignation may scorn to feed at their Tables, to drink of their Liquors, or otherwise to borrow or buy of Them, or of any their Confederates, so long as our Native Soil does supply us with such excellent Necessaries.  
Nor do we produce these Instances to redeem the Liquor from the superstition, prejudice, and opinions of those Men who so much magnify the juice of the Grape above it: But we will here add some Experiments from undeniable success (in spite of Vintners, and Bawds to men's Palates) were they sufficient to convince us, and reclaim the vitiated; or that it were possible to dispute of the pleasantness, riches, and praecedency of Drinks and Diets, and so to provide for fit, competent, and impartial Judges; when by Nature, Nation, or Climate (as well as by Custom and Education) we differ in those Extremes.  
Most parts of Africa and Asia prefer Coffee before our Noblest Liquors; India, the Roots and Plants before our best Cooked Venison; Almost all the World crude water, before our Country Ale and Beer; and we English being generally more for insipid, luscious, or gross Diet, than for the spicy, poignant, oily, and highly relished, (witness our universal hatred of Oils, French-wine, or Rhenish without Sugar; our doting on Currans, Figgs, Plum-pottage, Pies, Pudding, Cake, etc.) renders yet the difficulty more arduous. But to make good the Experiment  
About thirty years since one M. Taylor (a person well known in Hereford-shire) challenged a London-Vintner (finding him in the Country) That he would produce a Cider which should excel his best Spanish or French-wine: The Wager being deposited, He brings in a good Red-strake to a private House: On that Scene, all the Vintner could call to be Judges pronounce against his Wine; Nor would any man there drink French-wine (without the help of Sugar) nor endure Sack for a full draught; and to those who were not accustomed to either, the more racy Canaries were no more agreeable than Malaga, too luscious for the repetition. But this Wager being lost, our Vintner renews his Chartel, upon these express terms, of Competent and Indifferent Arbitrators: The Gentleman agrees to the Articles; and thus again after mutual engagements i● must be debated who were Competent Judges, and absolutely Indifferent. M. Taylor proposes Three, whereof the odd Number should by Vote determine: They must be of the fittest Ages too, or rather the fittest of all Ages, and such as were inur'd neither to Cider nor any Wine; and so it was agreed. The Judges convene; viz. A Youth of ten years old, a Man of thirty, and a Third of sixty; and by All these also our Vintner lost the Battle. But this is not enough; 'Tis assayed again by Nine Judges, the Ternary thrice over; and there 'tis lost also: To this we could add another, even of the Cider of Ledbury (which is not yet the best of Herefordshire) which, when an experienced London-Vintner had tasted, he wished had been Poison; for that if it were known where he dwelled, it would utterly undo his Trade. And here I will conclude; for I think never was fairer Duel; nor can more be reasonably pretended to vindicate this Blessing of God, and our Native Liquor from their contempt, and to engage our Propagators of it.  
To sum up all: 
Tot veneficiis placere cogitur, & miramur noxium esse Vinum? Plin. As 'tis most ingeniously cited by Dr Charleton, in his excellent Discourse of the Adulterations of Wine, entered into the Register of the Royal Society; and (with those other most useful Pieces subjoined) worthy to be published, etc. See Regist Ro Society, Num. 2. 17. Decemb. 28 jan. 1662. pag. 67. 116. etc.  If Health be more precious than Opinion, I wish our Admirers of Wines, to the prejudice of G●der, beheld but the Cheat themselves; the Sophistications, Transformations, Transmutations, Adulterations, Bastardizing, Brewing, Trickings, not to say, even Arsenical Compassing of this Sophisticated God they adore; and that they had as true an Inspection into those Arcana Lucifera, which the Priests of his Temples (our Vintners in their Taverns) do practise; and then let them drink freely that will; 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉:— Give me good Cider.  
It is noted in our Aphorisms how much this Beverage was esteemed by His late Majesty, and Court, and there referred to all the Gentry of the environing Country, (no stranger's to the best Wines) when for several Summers in the City of Hereford (so encompassed with store of it, and brought thither without charge, or extraordinary subductions) it was sold for sixpence the Wine-quart, not for the scarcity, but the excellency of it: And for the Red-strake, that it has been seen there hundreds of times (with vehement and engaged competition) compared with the Cider of other the most celebrated Fruit, when after a while of vapour, no man stood for any other Liquor in comparison.  
But it is from these Instances (may some say) when the World shall have multiplied Cider-Trees, that it will be time enough to give Instructions for the right Pressing and Preserving of the Liquor. The Objection is fair: But there are already more Persons better furnished with Fruit, than with Directions how to use it as they should; when in plentiful years so much Cider is impaired by the ignorant handling, and becomes dead and sour, that many even surfeit with the Blessing; it being rarely seen in most Countries, that any remains good, to supply the defects of another year; and the Royal Society would prevent all this hazard by this free Anticipation. And yet when all this is said, we undertake not to divine what excellent Cider other soils may bear; nor do we positively extol the Red-strake farther than the bounds and confines of Herefordshire, for the Experiments we have produced; but because there are doubtless many such soils sparsedly throughout this Nation; why should it not incite our Industry to its almost effort, and the commendable emulation of endeavouring to raise a yet kindlier Cider-fruit if it be possible, and which may prove in itself as good, and as agreeable to the Soil where we plant it? And certainly, much of this may fairly be expected, from the Trials, Culture, and Propagation of Kernel-Fruits of innumerable sorts, and from hopeful Wildings, and the peculiarity of Grounds.  
It now remains, that I should make some Apology for myself, to extenuate the tumultuary Method of the ensuing Periods. Indeed it was not intended for a quaint or elaborate piece of Art; nor is it the design of the Royal Society to accumulate Repetitions when they can be avoided; and therefore in an Argument so much beaten as is that of dressing the Seminary, Planting, and modes of Graffing, it has been with Industry avoided; such rude, and imperfect draughts being far better in their esteem (and according to my Lord Bacon's) than such as are adorned with more pomp, and ostentous circumstances, for a pretence to Perfection. The Time may come when the richness, and fullness of their Collections may worthily invite some more Industrious Person to accomplish that History of Agriculture, of which these Pieces (like the limbs of Hippolytus) are but scattered parts: And it is their greatest ambition for the Public Good, to provide such Materials, as may serve to Raise, and Beautify that most desirable Structure.  
EVELYN.    

POMONA.  

CHAP. I.  
Of the Seminary.  
WE had not the least intention to enlarge upon this Title, after we had well reflected on the many and accurate Directions which are already published, as well in our French-Gardiner, as in sundry other Treatises of that nature, 
Dr. Beale of Yeavil in Somersetshire.  had not a most worthy Member of the Royal Society (to whom we have infinite Obligations) furnished us with some things very particular and remarkable, in order to the improvement of our Seminaries, Stocks, etc. which are indeed the very Basis and Foundation of Cider-Orchards. It is from those precious papers of his, and of some others (whose Observations also have richly contributed to this Enterprise) that we shall chief entertain our Planter in most of the following Periods.  
Whosoever expects from the kernel of a rich or peculiar Apple or Pear to raise Fruit of the same kind, is likely to find many obstructions and disappointments: For the Wilding, (Crab or Pear) Pomus Sylvestris, being at the best the natural product of the soundest kernel in the firmest land, and therefore the gust of the Fruit more strongly austere, fierce, and sharp, and also the Fruit less and more woody; and the pleasanter or plumper and larger Apple being the effect of some inteneration, which inclines to a kind of rebatement of the natural strength of the Tree; the best choice of kernels for Stocks indefinitely, (and on which we may graft what we please) should be from the soundest Wilding. For,  
A kernel taken from any graffed-Apple, as Pepin, Pear-main, etc. does most naturally propend to the wildness of the Stock on which 'twas inserted, as being the natural mother of the kernel, which is the very heart of the Apple; and also from a more deep and secret Reason, to be hereafter unfolded.  
Apples and Pears requiring rather a vulgar and ordinary Field-land, than a rich Garden-mould, (as has been often seen to succeed by frequent Observations) it has been found that kernels sowed in a very high compost, and rank earth, have produced (large indeed) but insipid Fruit, hastily rotting on the Trees, before all the parts of it were mature. Vid. Aphor. 33.  
And sometimes when they seemed in outward figure to bear the shape of graffed Apples, from whence the kernels came, yet the gust did utterly deceive, wanting that vivacity and pungent agreeableness.  
If the kernels of natural Apples (or of ungraffed Trees) should produce the same, or some other variety of Apples, (as sometimes it succeeds) yet would this care be seldom operae pretium, and at best but a work of Chance, the disappointment falling out so often through the fickleness of the Soil: Or admit that the most proper and constant, yet would the very dews and rain, by various and mutable Seasons, and even by the Air itself, (which operates beyond vulgar perception, in the very changes as well of the mould, as of the seeds and fruit) create almost infinite alterations: And the choice having been in all places (apparently for some thousands of years) by propagating the most delicate of Fruits by the Graffs, 'tis almost a desperate task to attempt the raising of the like, or better Fruit from the rudiments of the Kernel.  
Yet since our design of relieving the want of Wine, by a Succedaneum of Cider, (as lately improved) is a kind of Modern Invention, We may encourage and commend their patience and diligence who endeavour to raise several kinds of Wildings for the trial of that excellent Liquor; especially since by late experience we have found, that Wildings are the more proper Cider-Fruits; some of them growing more speedily, bearing sooner, more constantly, and in greater abundance in leaner Land, much fuller of juice, and that more masculine, and of a more Winy vigour.  
Thus the famous Red-strake of Hereford-shire is a pure Wilding, and within the memory of some now living surnamed the Scudamores' Crab, and then not much known save in the Neighbourhood, etc. Yet now it would be difficult to show that Red-strake which grew from a kernel in that whole Tract, all being since become graffed Trees. Thus 'tis also believed, That the Bromsbury Crab (which carries the fame in some parts of Gloucestershire) and many of the White Musts, and Green Musts, are originally Savages; as now in Somerset-shire they have a generous Cider made of promiscuous kernels, or ungraffed Trees, which fills their confidence that no other Cider does exceed it; and 'tis indeed strong, and of a generous vigour.  
Nor dare we positively deny, but that even the best of our Table-fruit came also originally from the kernel: For it is truly noted by my L. Bacon, That the Fruit does generally obey the Graff, and yields very little to the Stock; yet some little it does.  
The famous Bezy de Hery, an excellent Musky Pear, was brought into the best Orchards of France from a Forest in Bretainy, where it grew wild, and was but of late taken notice of.  
But now to the deep Reason we lately threatened: We have by an Experiment found some near affinity between the Kernel of the Apple and the heart or interior of the Stock: For I saw (says Dr. Beale) an old rotten Kernel-Tree bearing a delicate Summer-fruit, yielding store of smooth Cider, ('tis called the French-Kernel-Tree, and is also a Dwarf, as is the Red-strake;) and examining divers Kernels, many years successively, of that hollow and decayed Tree, I found them always very small of growth, and empty, mere skins of Kernels, not unlike to the emasculated Scrotum of an Eunuch; another younger Tree, issuing from the sounder part of a Root of the same old Tree, had full and entire Kernels.  
And from some such Observation might the production of Berberies, etc. without Stones, be happily attempted; an Instrument fitted to take out the marrow or pith of the Branches▪ (as the same Dr Beale performed it;) for from the numerical Bush of that Fruit he found some Branches produce Berberies that had no stones, others which had; and in searching for the cause of the effect, perceived, that the pith or heart was taken from the radicat, or main Branches, as the other was full of pith, and consequently the fruit in perfection; of all which (he writes me word) he made several trials on other fruit, but left the place before he could see the event. But he adds;  
These many years (almost twenty) I have yearly tried Kernels in Beds of clean Earth, Pots, and Pans, and by the very leaves (as they appeared in first springing for one month) I could discern how far my Essays had civilised 'em: The Wilder had shorter, stiffer, brown, or fox-coloured leaves, The more ingenuous had more tender, more spreading leaves; and approaching the lighter verdure of the Berbery leaf when it first appears. He adds,  
Some Apples are called Rose-Apples, Rosemary-Apples, Gillyflower-Apples, Orange-Apples, with several other adjuncts, denominating them, from what Reason I know not. But if we intended to try such infusions upon the Kernels (as should endeavour to alter their kinds) we should not approve of the bedabbling them with such infusions, (for over- moisture would rather enervate than strengthen them) but rather prepare the Earth the year before, with such insuccations, and then hinder it from producing any Weeds, till ready for the Kernels, and then in dewy times, and more frequently when our Climate were surcharged with rain, cover the Beds and Pots with the small leaves of Rosemary, Gillyflowers, or other odoriferous Blossoms, and repeat it often, to the end the dews may meteorize, and emit their finer Spirits, etc. Or if any shall please to be so liberal of their Salts and Calcinations of peculiar Virtues (though possibly the Essay may endanger their seeds) yet the mixture of such Salts finely reduced and strewed discreetly on their Beds, may be a more probable means, than those Liquid Infusions which have hitherto been so confidently boasted. For thus also we are in this Age of ours provided of more vigorous Ingredients for trials than were known to the Ancients. Finally,  
From what has been deduced from the Wilding of several parts, it may manifestly appear, how much more congeneal some soil is than other, to yield the best Cider-fruit from the Kernel; and the hazzle ground, or quicker mould, much better than the more obstinate clay or ranker earth: In hot Gravelly-Grounds, where almost no sort of Fruit will grow, Pears will thrive; and a Friend of mine assures me, of One that clavae a Rock, and filling it with a little good Earth, planted a Pear-tree therein, which prospered exceedingly: I add this, that none may go hence without encouragement.   

CHAP. II.  
Of Stocks.  
THe former thus established, after all humours and varieties have been sufficiently wearied, we shall find the Wilding to be the hardiest and most proper Stock for the most delicate Fruit: This confirmed by Varro, lib. 1. cap. 40. In quamcunque arborem inseras, etc. and 'tis with reason: However they do in Herefordshire, both in practice, and opinion, limit this Rule; and to preserve the gust of any delicate Apple (as of the Pear-main, Quince-Apple, Stockin, etc.) rather graft upon a Gennet-Moyle or Cydoddin-Stock, (as there called) than a Crab-stock; but then indeed they conclude the Tree lasts not so long; and 'tis observed, That Apples are better tasted from a clean, light land, etc. than from stiffer clay, or the more pinguid and luxurious soil, whence we may expect some assistance from the civility of the Stock, which is a king of prepared Soil, or foundation to the Graff; even as our very Transplantations into better ground is likewise a kind of Graffing.  
Thus in like manner our Master Varro, loco citato concerning Pears; Simo in Pyrum Sylvaticam etc. The Wild-stock does enliven the dull and phlegmatic Apple, and the Stock of a Gennet-Moyle sweeten and improve an Apple that seems over-tart, as the Pome-roy, or some Greening, etc. or may rather seem to abate at least some Apple over-tart and severe.  
Your Crab-stock would be planted about October, at thirty two Foot distance, and not graffed till the third Spring after, or at least not before the second.  
But if your design be for Orchard only, and where they are to abide, an interval of sixteen Foot shall suffice for the Dwarfish kind, or in the Grounds where the Red-strake, or other Fruit-trees are of small bulk, provided the ground be yearly turned up with the Spade, and the distance quadrupled where the Plough has privilege; this being the most expedite for such as have no Nursery ground.   

CHAP. III.  
Of Graffs and Insitions.  
MAke choice of your Graffs from a constant and well-bearing Branch.  
And as the Stock hath a more verdant rind, and is capable to yield more plenty of juice, so let the Graff have more Eyes or Buds: Ordinarily three or four Eyes are sufficient to give issue to the Sap; but as well in Apples, and Pears, as in Vines, those Graffs or Cions are preferred in which the buds are not too far asunder, or distant from the foot thereof: and such a number of buds usually determining the length of the Graff, there may divers Cions be made of one Branch, where you cannot procure plenty of them for severals.  
As to the success of graffing▪ the main point is, to join the inward rind of the Cion to the inward rind of the Stock, so that the sap of the One, may there meet with the sap of the Other, and these parts should be joined closely, but not too forceably; that being the best and most infallible way, by which most of the quick and juicy parts are mutually united, especially towards the bottom.  
If the Stock be so big as to endanger the pinching of your Graff, when the wedge is drawn out of the cloven, let the inner side of the Graff, which is within the wood of the Stock, be left the thicker, that so the woody part of the Cion may bear the stress, and the sappy part be preserved from bruising. Some by an happy-hand, do with good success Graff without cleaving the Stock at all, only by Incisions in the Rind, as the Industrious Mr. Austin teaches us: But since this is not for every Rustic hand, nor seems to fortify so strongly against impetuous Winds, before the Union be secure, there had need be some extraordinary defence.  
Choose the straightest and smoothest part of the Stock for the place where you intent to graft: if the Stock be all knotty (which some esteem no impediment) or crooked, rectify it with the fittest posture of the Graff.  
For a Graff covet not a Cions too slender; for the Sun and Wind will sooner enforce it to whither: Yet are we to distinguish, that for Inoculation, we take the Bud from a sprig of the last years shoot; and most allow that the Cions should also have some of the former with it, that it may be the stronger to graft, and abide to be put close into the Stock, which is thought to advance it in bearing.  
In Hereford-shire they do frequently choose a Graff of several years' growth; and for the graffing of such large Stocks as are taken out of the Woods or Nurseries, and fitted into rows for Orchards, they choose not the Graffs so small as in other Countries they require them; which has, it seems, occasioned some complaint from them that understand not the Reason of the first branch of this Note. Once for all, the stumpy Graff will be found much superior to the slender one, and make a much nobler and larger Shoot. This upon experience.  
Graff your Cions on that side of the Stock where it may receive the least hurt from the South-west Wind, it being the most common, and most violent that blows in Summer; so as the wind may blow it to the Stock, not from it: And when the Zephyrs of the Spring are stirring, choose that Season before all others for this work.  
Some there are who talk of removing the Stock about Christmas, and then also graft it; which there be that glory they can successfully do even by the fire side, and so not be forced to expect a two or three years rooting of the Stock; But in this Adventure 'tis adviseable to plunge the Graff three or four inches deep in the Stock. Lastly,  
Be careful that the Rain get not into the clefts of your young graffed Stocks: Yet it has been noted, That many old Trees (quite decayed with an inward hollowness) have born as full burdens, and constantly, as the very soundest, and the Fruit found to be more delicate than usually the same kind from a perfect and more entire Stock.  
Except some former case requires it, leave not your Graffs above four, five, or (at most) six inches of length above the Stock; for by the length it draws more feebly, and is more exposed to the shocks of the Wind, or hurt by the Birds; and you shall frequently perceive the summities and tops of such young Graffs to be mortified and die.  
The Genet-moyle is commonly propagated by cutting off the Branch a little below a Burr-knot, and setting it without any more Ceremony; but if they be also graffed first as they grow on the Tree, and when they have covered the head, cut off below the Burr, and set, it is far better: In this separation cut a little beneath the Burr, and peel off, or prick the Bark, almost to the knot: Thus also if the Branch have more knots than one, you may graft, and cut off yearly, till within half a foot of the very stem, which you may graft likewise, and so let stand.  
Now for encouragement in transporting Graffs at great distance, we find that with little care (their tops uncut and unbruised) they will hold good, and may support the transportation by Sea or Land from October or November to the very end of March: See Sir H. Plat's Offers, Paragr. 75. To which may be added, That if the Graff receives no hurt by lying in the Stock exposed to all rain, dews, and severities of Winter frosts from December to Spring, (as has been experimentally noted); then (by a stronger presumption) in oiled, or rather waxed Leather, it may undoubtedly escape. Some prescribe, That the ends shall be stuck in a Turnip: and many excellent Graffers (gentlemans some of very good credit) have assured us, That the Graffs which seemed withered, and fit to be cast away, have proved the best when tried. Thus in honest Barnaby Googes noble Heresbachius you will find it commended to gather your Cions in the wane of the Moon, at least ten days before you graft them; and Constantine gives this reason for it, That the Graff a little withered, and thirsty, may be the better received of the Stock: I know some who keep them in Earth, from the end of October, till the Spring, and will hardly use them before. There are also other inducements for this practice, as Simon Harwood, pag. 4. has showed us; but none beyond our own experience, who have known Graffs gathered in December thrive and do perfectly well.  
The best expedient to convey Graffs is to stick the cut-ends in Clay, enveloped with a clout to preserve it from falling off; and to wrap the other part of the Twigs in dry Hay or straw-bands, which will secure them both from the Winds, Galling, and other injuries in Transportation: Nay, I have known them sent many hundred Miles from beyond the Seas accommodated to an ordinary Letter, and though somewhat short, and with very few Buds, yet with excellent success; and if this course were more universally considered, we might be furnished with many great Curiosities with little difficulty or charge.   

CHAP. IU.  
Of Variety and Improvements.  
IF any man would have variety of unexpected and unknown Apples and Pears, for the improvement of Cider, or Palate-fruit, there is more hope from Kernels raised in the Nursery (as has already been directed) than from such trials of graffings as we have yet seen in present use.  
But if we would recover the patience, and the sedulity of the Ancient (of which some brief account will follow) or listen to some unusual Proposals, then may we undertake for some variety by Insitions.  
To delude none with Promises, we do much rather recommend the diligence of enquiring from all Countries the best Graffs of such Fruits as are already found excellent for the purpose we design: As from the Turgovians for that Pear of which Dr. Pell gives so good and weighty informations; and of which I had presented me some Graffs, together with a taste of the most superlative Perry the World certainly produces; both which were brought near 800 Miles, without suffering the least diminution of Excellency, by my Worthy Friend Mr. Hake a Member of the R. Society, in the year 1666, and tasting as high, and as rich as ever to the present year I am writing this Paragraph.  
But as some sorts are to be enquired after for the Palate and the Table, so 'tis now our main business to search after such as are excellent for their Liquor, either as more pleasant, more winy, or more lasting; of which sort the Bosbury bare-land-Pear excels. The Red-strake, Bromebury-Crab, and that other much celebrated Wilding called the Oaken-pin, as the best for Cider; though for sufficient reasons we do yet prefer the Red-strake▪ to oblige the emulation of other Countries, till they find out a Fruit which shall excel it, and which we do most hearty wish.  
But to pursue the diligence of the Ancients, we direct the eye to a general expedient for all kind of varieties imaginable, and which we hold far better than to present the World with a List of the particulars either known, or experimented: For who indeed but a Fool will dare to tell Wonders in this severe Age, and upon an Argument which is so environed with Imposture in most Writers old or new? Much less pretend to Experiments which may fail to succeed by default of an unhappy occasion, when the conclusion must be Penes Authorem sit fides!  
And truly men receive no small discouragement from the ugly affronts of Clowns, and less cultivated persons, who laugh and scorn at every thing which is above their understanding: For example; I knew a man (writes Dr. Beale to me) and he a most diligent Planter and Graffer, who for thirty or forty years made innumerable Essays to produce some change of an Apple by Graffing: It seems he was ambitious to leave his Name on such a Fruit, if he could have obtained it; but always failed; for he perpetually made his Trials upon Crab-stocks, or such (at least) as did not greatly differ from the kind; and he ever found that the Graff would praedominate. And how infinitely such Men having lost their own aims, will despise better Advice, we leave to observation.  
However, let us add, That where nothing is more facile than to raise new kinds of Apples (in infinitum) from Kernels: Yet in that Apple-Country (so much addicted to Orchards) we could never encounter more than two or three persons that did believe it: But in other places we meet with many that, on the other side, repute Wildings, or (as they call them) Kernel-fruit, at all adventure, and without choice, to be the very best of Cider-fruit, and to make the most noble Liquor. So much does the common judgement differ in several Countries, though at no considerable distance, even in matters of visible Fact, and epidemical experience.  
It has been soberly affirmed, that by graffing any White Apple upon an Elm, it changes the Apple, and particularly to a red colour: I have a Direction where we may be eye-witnesses of the proof; whatever the Truth of it be, we are not overhastily to erect Herculeses Pillars; but rather to encourage the Experiment.  
To gratify yet the Ingenious, instruct others, and emancipate us all from these bastinado Clowns, we are furnished with many Arguments and proofs to assure a good success, at least for variety and change, if not for infinite choice: Two or three ancient References being duly praemis'd; namely, First,  
1. That 'tis in vain to expect change of Apples from Graffing upon differing Stocks of Crabs or Apples.  
2. In vain also are we to look for a kind Tree from a very much differing Stock; as an altered Pear to grow kindly on a Crab or Apple-stock, & contra. There go about indeed some juggle, but we disdain to name them.  
It is one thing to find the kindest Stock for the Improvement of any Fruit; as the Crab-stock for the delicate Apple, the Wild or Black-Cherry-Stock, for the graffs of the fairest Cherries; the largest Vine, (whose root makes best shift for relief) to accept the Graff of the more delicate Vine; the White Pear-Plum Stock, for the Abricot, etc. And another thing it is to seek the Stock which begets the wonder, variety, and that same transcendent and particular excellency we inquire after: For this must be at more remote distance; and we offer from the Ancients to show, how it may be at any distance whatsoever: But the whole expedient seems to be hinted by Sir H. Plate, pag. 72. where he affirms, that If two Trees grow together, that be apt to be graffed one into another, then let one branch into another, workmanly joining Sap to Sap. This our Gardiner's call Graffing by Approach, and is explicated at large by Columella.  
But in this express Rule he is too narrow for our purpose, and far short of old experience; as we find in Parag. 63. where he affirms, We may not graft a contrary Fruit thereon. Against this we urge; That any contrary Fruit may be adventured, and any Fruit upon any fruitless Stock growing in propinquity in the same Nursery; as it is not only affirmed, but seriously undertaken, and experimentally proved by the sober Columella, in several of his Treatises; Turn to the eleventh Chapter of his fifth Book, (Stephen's Edition:) Sed cum antiqui negaverint posse omne genus surculorum in omnem Arborem inseri, & illam quasi finitionem, qua nos paulò ante usi sumus, veluti quandam legem sanxerint, eos tantùm surculos posse coalescere, qui sint cortice, ac libro, & fructu consimiles iis arboribus quibus inseruntur, existimavimus errorem hujus opinionis discutiendum, tradendámque posteris rationem, qua possit omne genus surculi omni generi Arboris inseri. And the example follows in a Graff of an Olive into a Fig-stock by Approach (as we call it,) which he also repeats in the twenty seventh Chapter of his Book De Arboribus, without altering a syllable. But possibly in this check at the Ancient he might aim at old Varro, whom we find threatening no less than Thunderbolts and Blasts to those who should attempt these strange Marriages, and did not sort the Graff with the Tree; consult lib. 1. cap. 40. And yet you may see this Art assumed by Columella for his own invention (1500 years since) to be no news to Varro 200 years older; where he goes on, Est altera species ex arbore in arborem inserendi nuper animadversa in arboribus propinquis, etc. Though here again we may question our Masters nuper animadversa too; since before he was born Cato relates it as usual to Graff Vines in the manner by them prescribed, cap. 41. Tertia insitio est: Terebra vitem quam inseres, etc. Which by the way makes us admire how the witty Walchius in his Discourse De vitibus fructuariis, pag. 265. could recount the graffing of Vines amongst the wonders of Modern Inventions.  
But it seems Varro and his Contemporaries did extend the practice beyond Cato; and Columella proceeded further than Varro, even to all sorts of Trees, however differing in nature, quality, bark, or season: And then Palladius assumes the result, and gives us the particulars of the success in his Poem, De Insitionibus. And to these four as in chief (no fantastical or counterfeit persons) we refer the Industrious.  
But be pleased to take this note also: As soon as your Graff hath attained to a second, or at farthest a third years growth, take it off the Stock, and then graft it upon a Stock of a more natural kind: For in our own Trials we have found a graft prosper the second year exceeding well; yet the third the whole growth at once blasted quite to the very Stock, as if Varro's Augurs had said the word.  
To this add, the making use of such Stocks as in this Experiment may contribute some special aid to several kinds of humane Infirmities: As suppose the Birch Tree for the Stone, the Elm for Fevers, etc. For 'tis evident, that by such Insitions, the Branch may convert the Sap of the Root even of another species into its own nature, and alter all its properties; though in some they domineer, as the Branch of the Apple in the Rhamnus, or Mezerea, acquires a Purgative quality. And by these means why may not the Fruit by effectual Marriages be rendered Cordial, Astringent, Purgative, Sudorific, Soporiferous, and even Deliterious and Mortal: But this we only hint.  
Moreover, To graft rather the Wilding, or Crab, than the Pepin, because the Wilding is the more natural; and Nature does more delight in progress, than to be Retrograde and go backwards.  
I should also expect far more advance from a more pungent sap, than from Insipid; as generally we see the best and vigorous juices to salute our Palates with a more agreeable piquancy and tartness; for so we find the relish of the Stocking-Apple, Golden Pepin, Pearmain, Eliot, Harvy, and all (both Russetings and Greening) to be more poignant than of others.  
And here we note from Palladius, That the Ancients had the success which we all, and particularly Sir H. Plate, does so frequently deny, as in the particular of graffing the Apple on the Pear, & contra. Let us hear him de Pomo. 

The Graffed-Crab its bushy Head does rear,  
Much Meliorating the inserted Pear:  
Its self to leave its Wildness does invite,  
And in a Nobler issue to delight.   

Insita proceris pergit concrescere ramis,  
Et sociam mutat malus amica Pyrum:  
Séque feros sylvis hortatur linquere mores,  
Et partu gaudet nobiliore frui.   Pallad. de Insitionib. lib. 14.  
But possibly Palladius assumed this Poetical expression, upon presumption, that no man in his days durst degrade the most excellent Quince to support the Cyon of another Fruit, which then must be of less esteem, but we by our luxury have found the success.  
And we have good argument to believe; That Virgil, and Columella, in several of their wonderful Relations of these kinds of mixture, (which but for the prolixity we might now recite) did not so far affect Wonders as to desert the truth.  
You may also observe, That as well the French Gardener, and our Modern Planters, have found the same benefit from the Stock of the Quince, as old Palladius did, it seems, acknowledge; yet (as he conceived) more hospitable still with its own kindred, and that 

Though the Quince-stock admit all other Fruit,  
It's Cyon with no other stock will suit:  
Scorning the Bark of Foreign Trees, does know  
Such lovely Fruit on no mean stem can grow:  
But the Quince-Graff, to the Quince-stock is joined,  
Contented only to improve its kind.   

Cum praestet cunctis se fulva cydonia pomis,  
Alterius nullo creditur hospitio.  
Roboris externi librum aspernata superbit,  
Scit tantum nullo crescere posse decus:  
Sed propriis pandens cognata cubilia ramis,  
Stat, contenta suum nobilitare bonum.   Pallad. de Malo Cydonio.  
Lastly, We did by unexpected chance find the facility of graffing the very youngest Stocks, even of one years' growth, by the Root: At a second removal of the Stocks (being then of two years' growth) we observed some Roots so fast closed together into one, as not to be divorced: Hereupon we concluded, If casualty, or negligence, chance of spade, or oppression of neighbourhood did this, by Art it might be done more effectually, and possibly to some desirable purpose; for that then the stock was more apt to receive a mastering Impression; and any Garden Plant whatsoever might by this process interchange and mingle their Roots. But this can extend no farther than the Stock may prevail with the Graff.  
And thus we have presented our diligent Ciderist with what Observations and Arguments of Encouragement, grounded on frequent Experience, we have received from our most ingenious Correspondents, especially the Learned and truly Candid Dr Beale, in whose Person we have so long entertained you: and to these we could add sundry others, were it not now time (whiles we discourse of possibilities) to conclude with something certain, and to speak of what we have.  
For the kinds then of Cider-Apples in being; Gloucestershire affects the Bromsbury Crab; It affords a smart, winy Liquor, and is peculiarly hardy, but not so proper for a cold and late-bearing Climate, it being not ripe in hot Land till the end of Autumn, nor fit to be ground for Cider till Christmas, lying so long in heaps and preparation.  
It is in the same Shire that they likewise much esteem of the white and red Must-Apple, the sweetest as well as sourest Pepin, and the Harvy-Apple, which (being boiled) some prefer to the very best of all Ciders; though from any experience we have yet seen, we cannot recommend it, and it will want more particular and infallible Directions before we can be reconciled to the Adventure, which we have observed so frequently to miscarry.  
But about London, and the more Southern Tracts, the Pepin, and especially the Golden, is esteemed for the making of the most delicious of that Liquor, most wholesome, and most restorative; and indeed it may (in my poor judgement) challenge those perfections with very good reason.  
By others the Pearmain alone is thought to come in competition with the best; but, say they, the Cider is for the most part found of the weakest, unless encouraged with some agreeable Pepin to inspirit it; whereas this is to be taken according to the constitution of the Fruit; for even Pippins do differ as much from Pippins in Taste and Liquor, as the Kind, and the Soil dispose them; nay, though of the same Species; so as the Cider of the Pearmain (though likewise very different) does not seldom exceed it in that briskness which others attribute to the Pepin, which is for the most part more smooth and less poignant: I conceive a good way of extracting the Spirits of these Fruits, might prove a likely Criterion to ground our judgements on in all these niceties; whilst by the way, we may note, that of all Apples, that bear one general Name, the Pepin seems the most to differ; and the Cider from the genuine Cider-Fruit, keeps nearest to the same strength and relish.  
Some commend the Fox-Whelp; and the Gennet-Moyle was once preferred to the very Red-strake, and before the Bromsbury-Crab; but upon more mature consideration, the very Critics themselves now Recant, as being too effeminate and soft for a judicious Palate.  
The Red-strake then amongst these accurate Tasters hath obtained the absolute praeeminence of all other Cider-fruit, especially in Hereford-shire, 
See Aph. 42, 45, 37.  as being the richest and most vinous Liquor, and now with the more earnestness commended to our practice, for its celerity in becoming an Orchard, being ordinarily as full of Fruit at ten years' growth as other Trees are at twenty; the Pepin or Pearmain at thirty: And lastly, from that no contemptible quality, That though the smiles of it entice even on the Tree, as being indeed better than most other Table-fruits whilst hanging, yet it needs no Priapus for Protector, since (as beautiful as 'tis) it has no such temptation to the Taste, till it be either baked, or converted into Cider. The same may be affirmed also of the Broms-bery-Crab, Bareland-Pear, and many other Wildings, who are no less at their Self-defence; yet the Gennet-Moyle at due maturity, has both a gentle, and agreeable relish; their unagreeableness to the Palate (as elsewhere noted) proceeding only from the separation the juice makes from the Pulp, which even Children do remedy by contusing them on their sharpened Elbows; which (if throughly weighed) seems to dispute, if not overthrow some Hypotheses of Fermentation.  
In sum, The Red-strake will at three years graffing give you fair hopes, and last almost an hundred years; if from sundry men's Experience of more than 60 years, we may divine, and that it agree with the Soyl. And the Gennet-Moyles hasten to an Orchard for Cider without trouble of Art or Graffing: 
See C. Taylor's Discourse of Cider.  But note, That this Tree is very apt to contract a bur-knot near its Trunk, where it gins to divide; and being cut off under that boss, commonly grows (if so set) and becomes speedily a Tree, except it encounter an extraordinary dry Summer the first year to give it check. And though the knack of graffing be so obvious, yet this more appearing facility does so please the lazy Clowns, that in some places they neither have nor desire any other Orchards; and how this humour prevails you may perceive by the hasty progress of our Kentish Codlin in most parts of England. But this hasty growth and maturity of the Tree is by another Instance confirmed to us from that worthy Gent. Mr. Blount of Orleton, who writes me word, that some of the rejected Spray, or Prune of the Gennet-Moyle, taken by chance to rice a Plot of Pease (though stuck into the Earth but at April) put forth root, grew, blossomed, and bore Apples the same year.  
But to advance again our Red-strake, even above the Pepin, and the rest (besides the celerity of the improvement and constant burden) consider we the most incredible product, since we may expect from each Apple more than double the quantity; so as in the same Orchard, under the same culture, thirty Red-strake Trees shall at ten years graffing yield more Cider than a hundred of those Pippins, and surmount them in proportion during their period at least sixty or seventy years: So that granting the Cider of the Golden-Pepin should excel, (which with some is precarious) yet 'tis in no wise proper for a Cider-Orchard, according to our general design, not by half so soon bearing, nor so constantly, nor in that quantity, nor fullness or security.  
Concerning Perry, the Horse-Pear and Bare-land-Pear are reputed of the best, as bearing almost their weight of spriteful and vinous Liquor. 
Aph. 43.  The Experienced prefer the tawny or ruddy sort, 
Aph. 34.  as the colour of all other most proper for Perry: They will grow in common-fields, gravelly, wild, and stony ground, to that largeness▪ as one only Tree has been usually known to make three or four Hogsheads: That of Bosbury, and some others, are so tart and harsh that there is nothing more safe from plunder, when even a Swine will not take them in his mouth. But thus likewise would the abundance preserve these Fruits, as we see it does in Normandy.   

CHAP. V.  
Of the Place and Order.  
WE do seriously prefer a very wild Orchard, as mainly intended for the public utility, and to our purpose of obliging the People, as with a speedy Plantation yielding store for Cider: Upon this it is that we do so frequently inculcate, how well they thrive upon Arable, whilst the continuing it so accelerates the growth in almost half the time: And if the Arable can be so levelled (as commonly we see it for Barly-land) then without detriment it may assume the Ornament of Cyrus, and flourish in the Quincunx.  
If it be shallow Land, or must be raised with high Ridges, then 'tis necessary to have more regard of planting on the tops of those eminencies, and to excuse the unavoidable breach of the decussis, as my Lord Verulam excuseth the defect of our humane Fancies in the Constellations, which obey the Omnipotent order rather than ours: Add to this the rigour of the Royal Society, which approves more of plainness and usefulness, than of niceness and curiosity; whiles many putting themselves to the vast charge of levelling their grounds, oftentimes make them but the worse; since where the places are full of ghastly inequalities, there may be planted some sorts of Cider-fruit, which is apt by the great burden to be pressed down to the ground, and there (whiles it hides Irregularities) to bear much better, and abundantly beyond belief; for so have been seen many such recumbent Pear-trees bear each of them two, three, yea, even to six or more Hogsheads yearly.  
And for this Cider, whiles we prefer some sorts of Wildings which do not tempt the palate of a Thief, by the caution we shall not provoke any man to repent his charge from the necessity of richer and more reserved Enclosures; Though we have frequently seen divers Orchards successfully planted on very poor Arable, and even in stony Gleab, gravel and clay, and that pretty high, on the sides and declivities of Hills, where it only bears very short grass, like to the most ordinary Common, not worth the charge of Tillage: And yet even there the Tenants and Confiners sometimes enclose it for the Fruit, and find their reward, though not equally to such Orchards as are planted on better ground, and in the Valleys. Hence we suggest, That if there be no Statute for it, 'twere to be wished there were a Law which should allow endeavours of this nature out of the Common-field, to enclose for these Encouragements, since both the Public and the Poor (whatever the clamour is) are advantaged by such Enclosures, as Tusser in his old Rhimes, and all indifferent observers apprehend with good reason.  
True indeed it is, That all Land is not fit for Orcharding, so as even where to form just Enclosures▪ being either too shallow and dry, or too wet and starving: But this (saith the judicious Mr Buckland) we may aver, That there are few Parishes, or Hamlets in England where there are not some fat and deep Headlands capable of Rows of Trees; and that (as hath been said) the raised Banks of all Enclosures generally by the advantage of the depth, fatness, and health of their Mould, yield ready opportunity for planting; (yea, and in many Countries multitudes of Crab-stocks fit to be graffed;) in which latter (saith he) I have frequently observed very goodly Fruit-bearing Trees, when in the same soil Trees in Orchards have been poor and worth nothing. To conclude,  
If the soil be very bad and unkind, any other Fruit (which it may more freely yield without requiring much depth, and less Sun) may be planted instead of Apples.   

CHAP. VI  
Of Transplanting, and Distance.  
THe most proper season for Transplanting is before the hard Frosts of Winter surprise you, and that is a competent while before Christmas: And the main point is, to see that the Roots be larger than the Head; and the more ways that extends, the better and firmer.  
If the Stock seems able to stand on its own three or four legs (as we may call 'em,) and then after settlement some stones be heaped or laid about it, as it were gently wedging it fast, and safe from Winds (which stones may after the second or third year be removed) it will salve from the main danger: For if the Roots be much shaken the first Spring, it will hardly recover it.  
You may transplant a Fruit-Tree almost at any tolerable season of the Year, especially if you apprehend it may be spent before you have finished your work, having many to remove: Thus, let your Trees be taken up about Allhallontide, (or as soon as the leaf gins to fall); then having trimmed and quickened the Roots, set them in a Pit, forty, fifty, or a hundred together, yet so as they may be covered with mould, and kept very fresh: By the Spring they will be found well cured of their wounds, and so ready to strike root and put forth, that being Transplanted where they are to stand, they will take suddenly, and seldom fail; whereas being thus cut at Spring they recover with greater hazard.  
The very Roots of Trees planted in the ground, and buried within a quarter of an Inch, or little more, of the level of the Bed, will sprout, and grow to be very good Stocks. This and the other being Experiments of our own, we thought convenient to mention.  
By the oft removal of a Wild-stock, cutting the ends of the Roots, and dis-branching somewhat of the Head at every change of place, it will greatly abate of its natural wildness, and in time bring forth more civil and ingenuous Fruit: Thus Gillyflowers do (by oft removals, and at fullmoon especially) increase and multiply the leaves.  
Plant not too deep; for the over-turf is always richer than the next Mould. How material it is to keep the coast or side of the Stock, as well in Fruit-trees as in Forest, we have sufficiently discussed; nor is the Negative to be proved.  
For the distance in Fields, 
See Aph. 35.  they may be set from thirty two to sixty Foot, so as not to hinder the Plough, nor the benefit of manure and soil; but in hedg-rows as much nearer as you please, Sun and Air considered.   

CHAP. VII.  
Of the Fencing.  
SEeing a Cider-Orchard is but a wild Plantation, best in Arable well enclosed from Beasts, and yet better on the Tops, Ridges, and natural Inequalities, (though with some loss of Order, as we showed,) one of the greatest discouragements is the preserving of our Trees being plan●●d, the raising of them so familiar.  
We have in our Sylva treated in particular of this, as of one of the most material obstacles; wherein yet we did purposely omit one Expedient, which came then to our hands from the very Industrious Mr. Buckland to the Learned Dr. Beal: You shall have it in his own words.  
This of Fencing single Trees useth to be done by Rails at great charges; or by Hedges and Bushes, which every other year must be renewed, and the materials not to be had in all places neither. I therefore prefer and commend to you the ensuing form of Planting and Fencing, which is more cheap and easy, and which hath other Advantages in it, and not commonly known. I never saw it but once, and that imperfectly performed; but have practised it myself with success: Take it thus.  
Set your Tree on the Greenswarth, or five or six inches under it if the soil be very healthy; if moist or weeping, half a foot above it; then cut a Trench round that Tree, two foot or more in the clear from it: Lay a rank of the Turfs, with the grass outward, upon the inner side of the Trench towards your Plant, and then a second rank upon the former, and so a third, and fourth, all orderly placed, (asen ●n a Fortification) and leaning towards the Tree, after the form of a Pyramid, or larger Hop-hill: Always as you place a row of Turfs in compass, you must fill up the inner part of the Circle with the lose Earth of the second spit which you dig out of your Trench, and which is to be two foot and half wide, or more, as you desire to mount the hillock, which by this means you will have raised about your Plant near three foot in height. At the point it needs not be above two foot or eighteen inches diametre, where you may leave the Earth in ●orm of a Dish, to convey the Rain towards the body of the Tree; and upon the top of this hillock prick up five or six small Briars or Thorns▪ binding them lightly to the body of the Plant, and you have finished the work.  

The commodities of this kind of Planting are,  
First, Neither Swine, nor Sheep, nor any other sort of cattle can annoy your Trees.  
Secondly, you may adventure to set the smaller Plants, being thus raised, and secured from the reach of cattle.  
Thirdly, Your Trees fasten in the Hillock against violence of Winds, without Stakes to sret and canker them.  
Fourthly, If the soil be wet, it is hereby made healthy.  
Fifthly, If very dry, the hillock defends from the outward heat.  
Sixthly, It prevents the Couch-grass, which for the first years insensibly robs most plants in sandy grounds apt to graze. And,  
Lastly, The grazing bank will recompense the niggardly Farmer for the waste of his Ditch, which otherwise he will sorely bethink.   
In the second or third year (by what time your Roots spread) the Trench, if the Ground be moist, or Seasons wet, will be near filled up again by the treading of cattle; for it need not be cleansed; but than you must renew your Thorns: Yet if the Planter be curious, I should advise a casting of some small quantity of rich Mould into the bottom of the Trench the second year, which may improve the growth, and invite the Roots to spread.  
In this manner of Planting, where the soil is not rich, the exact Planter should add a little quantity to each Root of Earth from a frequented Highway, or Yard where cattle are kept; One Load will suffice for six or seven Trees; this being much more proper than rotten soil or loose-Earth; the fat Mould best agreeing with the Apple Tree.  
The broader and deeper your Ditch is, the higher will be your Bank, and the securer your Fence; but than you must add some good Earth in the second year, as before.  
I must subjoin, That only Trees of an upright growth be thus planted in open grounds; because spreading of low growing Trees will be still within reach of cattle as they increase: Nor have I met with any inconvenience in this kind of Transplanting (which is applicable to all sorts of Trees) but that the Mole and the Ant may find ready entertainment the first year, and sometime impairs a weak rooted Plant; otherwise it rarely miscarries. In sum,  
This manner of Fencing is soon executed by an indifferent Workman, who will easily set and guard six Trees in a Winter day. Thus far Mr. Buckland: To which we shall only add, That those which are planted in the Hedge rows need none of these defences; for (I am told) in Hereford-shire in the Plantations of their Quicksets, or any other, all men did so superstitiously place a Crab-stock at every twenty foot distance, as if they had been under some rigorous Statute requiring it; and I am of Opinion, that 'twere better to be content with Fruit in the bordering Mounds, than to be at all this trouble to raise Tumps, or temporary banks in the midst of an Enclosure; or if Pears will thrive in the Plain of the Ortyard, as we frequently see them, (where neither Apple or other Fruit could in appearance be expected) than Crabs, which may be raised on the Mounds, will kindly mix the Liquor into very good Beverage.   

CHAP. VIII.  
Of Pruning and Use of the Fruit-Trees.  
THe Branches are to be lopped in proportion to the bruises of the Roots, whose fibres else should only be quickened, not altogether cut off nor entangled: For the Top, let a little of each arm be lopped in Cider-fruit only; but for the Pears, cut two or three buds deep at the summities of their aspiring Branches, just above the ●ye slanting; this will keep them from overhasty mounting, reduce them into shape, and accelerate their bearing.  
To this we add again out of Dr. Beals Herefordshire Orchards, pag. 23. In a graffed plant every Bough should be lopped at the very tops, in Apples and Pears, as in Cherries and Plums, if Transplanted without violation of Roots, which only indeed renders it less necessary.  
In most kinds of natural Plants the Boughs should not at all be lopped, but some taken off close to the Trunk, that the Root at first Transplantation be not engaged to maintain too many Suckers, this to be understood, though of such as grow naturally from the Kernel, or the Bur-knot; especially if removed after they are well rooted. And this must be done with such discretion, that the Top-branches be not too close together; for the natural Plant is apt to grow spiry, and thereby fails of fruitfulness. Therefore let the reserved Branches be divided at a convenient roundness.  
The Branches of those we call natural Plants (for usually the Graffed generally fail) that are cut off, may be set, and will grow, though slowly.  
If the Top prove spiry, or the fruit unkind, than the due remedy must be in re- graffing. See Chap. xxviij. in Sylva.  
Besides the Perrys, dried and preserved Fruit, useful is the Pear-Tree (and best the most barren, or Pig-taile, as they call it, which is the Wild Pyraster) for its excellent coloured Timber, hard and levigable (seldom or not ordinarily wormeaten) especially for Stools, Tables, Chairs, Pistol-Stocks, Instrument-Maker, Cabinets, and very many works of the Joiner, (who can make it easily to counterfeit Ebony) and Sculptor, either for flat, or emboss'd-Works, and to Engrave upon, because the Grain intercepts not the Tool. And so is likewise both the Black-Cherry (especially for the Necks of Musical-Instruments) and the Plum-Tree.    

ANIMADVERSION.  
IF some of the following Discourses seem less constant, or (upon occasion) repugnant to one another, they are to be considered as relating only to the several gusts, and guizes of Persons and Countries, and not to be looked upon as recommended Secrets, much less imposed, farther than upon Trial they may prove grateful to the Public, and the different inclinations of those who affect these Drinks: nor in reason ought any to decry what is proposed for the universal Benefit; since it costs them nothing but their civility to so many obliging Persons.   

GENERAL ADVERTISEMENTS CONCERNING CIDER:  By Dr BEALE. 
1. HE that would treat exactly of Cider and Perry, must lay his foundation so deep as to begin with the Soil: For as no Culture or Graffs will exalt the French Wines to compare with the Wines of Greece, Canaries, and Montefiasco; so neither will the Cider of Bromyard and Ledbury equal that of Ham lacy, and Kings-Capell, in the same small County of Hereford.  
2. Yet the choice of the Graff or Fruit hath so much of prevalency, that the Red-strake-Cider will every where excel common Cider, as the Grape of Frontignac, Canary, or Baccharach, excels the common French Grape; at least, till by time and traduction it degenerateth.  
3. I cannot divine what Soil or what Fruit would yield the best Cider; or, how excellent Cider or Perry might be if all Soils in common and all Fruit were tried; but for thirty years I have tried all sorts of Cider in Hereford-shire, and for three years I have tried the best Cider in Somerset-shire; and for some years I have had the best Cider of Kent and Essex at my call; yet hitherto I have always found the Cider of Hereford shire the best, and so adjudged by all good Palates. But I shall rejoice to be better informed, and truly from all other Countries; and do both wish and hope, that in a short time, we shall every where be rich in many Improvements.  
4. I cannot undertake to particularise all kind of Soil, no more than to compute how many syllables may be drawn from the Alphabet; the number of Alphabetical Elements being better known than the Ingredients and Particles of Soil, as Chalk, Day, Gravel, Sand, Marle, (the tenaciousness, colour, and innumerable other qualities, showing endless diversities;) and the Fruit of Crabs, Apples, and Pears, being as various as of Grapes, Figs, and Plums.  
5. Yet in gross, this I note; That as Bacchus amat colles, and a light ground, so our best Cider comes from the hot Rie-Lands: In fat Wheat-Land it is more sluggish; and in white, stiff Clay-Land (as in Woollhope in Hereford-shire) the common Cider retains a thick whey-colour, and not good: Only such as riseth there (by the diligence or some Art of the Inhabitants) is bright and clear, and so lively, that they are apt to challenge the best.  
6. Some Cider mixeth kindly with Water in the Cider-mill, and will hold out a good small Wine, and less inflaming, all the following Summer. Some Cider (as of Long-hope, a kind of four Wood-Land Country of Herefordshire) will not bear any mixture of Water, but soon decay, and turn more harsh and four: And thus we noted in France, some course Wines stuck like paint in the Grass, unwilling to incorporate with the Water: Vin d' Ay, and other delicate Wines, did spread themselves more freely, as gold is more ductile than base metals.  
7. Some would, for a fit, extol the Cider of Pearmains, some of Pippins; (and of Pippins I have found a congenial Liquor, less afflicting splenetic persons, as in mine own experience I conceived:) And Sir Henry Lingen once extolled the Cider of Eleots (as richly bedewing the Glass like the best Canaries;) and full Hogsheads of the Stocking-Apple have been tried amongst us, but disappointing our expectation, though perhaps by evil ordering: Yet Mr. Gritten highly boasted a Mixture of Stocking-Apples and May-Pears, tried (as I take it) by himself: After many years' trial of those and many other kinds, the Red-strake carried the common fame, and from most of those reduced admirers. The gennet-moil Cider was indeed more acceptable to tender Palates; and it will require Custom and judgement to understand the preferrency of the Red-strake, whose mordicant sweetness most agreeably gives the farewell, endearing the relish to all flagrant Palates; which both obliges, whets, and sharpens the stomach with its masculine and winy vigour; and many thousands extol it for exceeding the ordinary French-Wine: But grant it should not be so strong as Wine; let me ask how many sober persons abroad addict themselves to mere Wine? Then compare this with diluted Wine, as usually for temperate men, and then let the trial be made, whether the Pepin-Cider or Red-strake will retain the winy vigour in greater proportion of Water. Add to this, That they commonly mingle Water in the Press with Apples (a good quantity) whiles they grind the Apple; and the Water thus mixed, at that time, does so pleasingly incorporate in the grinding, fermentation, and maturity of Vesseling, that 'tis quite another and far more pleasant thing than if so much or half so much Water were mingled in the Cup at the drinking time; as Salt on the Trencher will not give Beef, Pork, or Neats-Tongue, half that same relish which duly powdered and timely seasoned.  
8. I did once prefer the gennet-moil Cider, but had only the Ladies on my side, as gentler for their sugary palates, and for one or two sober draughts; but I saw cause to recant, and to confess the Red-strake to warm and whet the Stomach, either for meat or more drink.  
9 The right Cider-fruit is far more succulent, and the Liquor more easily divides from the pulp of the Apple, than in best Table-fruit, in which the juice and the pulp seem friendly to dissolve together on the tongues end.  
10. The Liquor of best Cider-fruit in the Apple, in best season of ripeness, is more brisk and smart than that which proves duller Cider: And generally the fiercest Pears, and a kind of tamer Crabs, (and such was the Red-strake called in my memory) makes the more winy Cider.  
11. Palladius denieth Perry to bear the heat of Summer; but there is a Pear in Bosbury, and that Neighbourhood, which yields the Liquor richer the second year than the first, and so by my experience very much amended the third year: They talk much higher; but that's beyond my account.  
12. As Cider is for some time a sluggard, so by like care it may be retained to keep the Memorials of many Consuls; and these smoky bottles are the nappy Wine. My Lord Scudamore seldom fails of three or four years; and he is nobly liberal to offer the Trial.  
13. As red Apples, so red Pears (and amongst them the red Hors-pear next to the Bosbury) have held out best for the stomach and durance: But Pears do less gratify the stomach than Apples.  
14. The season of grinding these harsh Pears is after a full maturity, not till they have dropped from the Tree, and there lain under the Tree, or in heaps, a week, or thereabouts.  
15. And so of Cider-Apples, as of Grapes, they require full maturity, which is best known by their natural fragrancy; and then also, as ripe Grapes require a few mellowing days, so do all Apples, as about a week or little more, so they be not bruised, which soon turns to rottenness; and better sound from the Tree than rotten from the heap; though yet the juice of Apples and Pears (yea, of Cherrys or Grapes) is not altogether destroyed, or quite putrified, as soon as the Pulp seems to be corrupted; neither haply needs there such curiosity, to cull and pick them so accurately, as some prescribe, though doubtless the cleaner, and less contaminated, the better.  
16. That due maurity, and some rest on the heap, does make the Liquor taste rather of Apples than winy, hath no more truth, (if the Cider be kept to fit age) than that very old Cheese doth taste of a Posset.  
17. The harsher the wild-fruit is, the longer it must lie on heaps; for of the same fruit, suddenly ground, I have tasted good Ver-juice; being on heaps till near Christmas, all good-fellows called it Rhenish-wine.  
18. The Grinding is somewhat considerable, rather too much than too little; here I saw a Mill in Somersetshire which grinds half a Hogshead at a grist, and so much the better ground for the frequent rolling.  
19 
* See for This, excellent directions in Mr. newburgh's preserving of the surface; C. Tailors Vessel, and Dr Smiths closing of it up.  Soon after grinding it should be pressed, and immediately be put into the Vessel, that it may ferment before the spirits be dissipated; and then also in fermenting time the Vent-hole should not be so wide as to allow a prodigal waste of the spirits; and as soon as the ferment gins to allay, the Vessels should be filled of the same, and well stopped.  
20. Of late 'tis much commended, that before it be pressed the Liquor and Mu should for four and twenty hours' ferment together in a Vat for that purpose, covered, as Ale or Beer in the Yest-vat, and then tunned up. This is said to enrich the liquor, and to give it somewhat of the tincture of some red Apples, as I have seen, and very well approved.  
21. As Sulphur hath some use in Wines, so some do lay Brimstone on a rag, and by a wire let it down into the Cider-Vessel and there fire it; and when the Vessel is full of the smoke, the liquor speedily poured in ferments the better. I cannot condemn this, for Sulphur is more kind to the Lungs than Cider, and the impurity will be discharged in the ferment.  
22. Apples overlong hoarded before grinding will for a long time hold the liquor thick; and this liquor will be both pleasant, and as I think, wholesome; and we see some rich Wines of the later Vintage, and from Greece, retain a like crassitude, and they are both meat and drink.  
23. I have seen thick hearth Cider the second Summer become clear and very richly pleasant; but I never saw clear acid Cider recover.  
24. Wheat or Leven is good and kind in Cider, as in Beer; juniper-berries agree well and friendly for Coughs, weak Lungs, and the aged, but not at first for every Palate: The most infallible and undiscerned improver, is Mustard a Pint to each Hogshead, bruised, as for sauce, with a mixture of the same Cider, and applied as soon as the Vessel is to be closed after fermenting.  
25. Bottleing is the next improver, and proper for Cider; some put two or three Raisins into every Bottle, which is to seek aid from the Vine▪ Here in Somersetshire I have seen as much as a Wal nut of Sugar, not without cause, used for this Country Cider.  
26. Crabs do not hasten the decay of Perry, but preserve it, as Salt preserves flesh. But Pears and Crabs being of a thousand kinds require more Aphorisms; this only I would Note, that Land which refuses Apples, is generally civil to Pears, and Crabs mingled with them, make a rich and wholesome Cider, and has sometimes challenged even the best Red-strake.  
27. Neither Wheat, Leven, Sulphur, nor Mustard, are used but by very few; and therefore are not necessary to make Cider last well, for two, three, or four years.  
28. The time of drawing Cider into Bottles is best in March, it being then clarified by the Winter, and free from the heat of the Sun.  
29. In drawing, the best is nearest the heart or middle of the Vessel, as the Yelk in the Egg.  
30. Redstrakes are of divers kinds, but the name is in Herefordshire appropriated to one kind, which is fair and large, of a high purple colour, the smell Aromatical, the Tree a very shrub, soon bearing a full burden, and seldom or never failing till it decays, which is much sooner than other Appletrees. 'Tis lately spread all over Hereford-shire; and he that computes speedy return, and true Wine, will think of no other Cider-Apple, till a better be found.  
31. I said the Red strake is a small shrub, 'tis of small growth where the Cider proves richest, for aught we have yet seen in Herefordshire, viz. in light quick land; and if the land be very dry, jejune and shallow, that and other Cider fruit (especially the Gennet-moyle) will suspend the store of fruit alternatively every other year; except some Blasts or surprising Frosts in the Spring alter that Method; for two bad years seldom come together, very hardly three.  
32. In good soil, I mean of common field (for fat land is not best for Cider-fruit, but common arable) I have seen the Trees of good growth, almost equalling other Cider-trees, the Apple larger and seldom failing of a good burden: thus in the Vales of Wheat-lands, in strong Glebe or Clay, where the Cider is not so much extolled: but still Sack is Sack, and Canary differs from Claret; so does the Red-strake-Cider of the Vale excel any other Cider of the foresaid soil, such as is already celebrated for its kindness to good Cider.  
33. Yet this distinction of Soil requires much experience, and great heed, if we insist upon accurate directions; for as Lauremberg saith, in pingui solo non seruntur omnia rectè, neque▪ in macro nihil. And for Gardens, Flowers, and Orchards, I would choose many times such lands as do not please the Husbandman, either for Wheat or sweet Pasture, which are his chief aims; and thus Lauremberg, In Arida & ten●i terra faelicius proveniunt Ruta, Allium, Petroselinum, Crocus, Hyssopus, Capparis, Lupini, Satureia, Thymus; Arbores quoque tenue & macile●tum solum amant; itemque frutices plerique Hujusmodi arbores sunt, Pomus, Pyrus, Cerasus, Prunus, Persica, Cotonea, Morus, juglans, Corylus, Staphylodendrum, Mespilus, Ornus, Castanea, etc. Frutices, scil. Vitis, Berberis, Genista, juniperus, Oxyacantha, Periclymenum, Rosa, Ribesium, Wa, Spina, Vaccinia, etc.  
34. But here also we must distinguish, that Pears will bear in a very stony, hungry, gravelly-land, such as Apples will not bear in; and I have seen Pears bear in a tough binding hungry Clay, when Apples could not so well bear it (as the smooth rinds of the Pear-trees, and the Mossy and cankered rinds of the Apple trees did prove) the root of a Pear-tree being it seems more able to pierce a stony and stiff ground. And Cherries, Mulberries and Plums can rejoice in a richer soil, though by the smallness of the Roots, the shallower soil will suffice them. And the Quinces require a deeper ground, and will bear with some degrees of hungry land, if they be supplied with a due measure of succulency, and neighbouring moisture; and the other shrubs, according to the smallness of their roots, do generally bear a thinner land. I have seen a soil so much too ran●● for Apples and Plums, that all their fruits from year to year were always wormeaten, till their lives were forfeited to the fire.  
35. To take up from these Curiosities, the most useful result to our purpose; we have always found these Orchards to grow best, last longest, and bear most, which are frequently tilled for Barley, Wheat, or other Corn, and kept (by Culture and seasonable rest) in due strength to bear a full crop. And therefore, whereas the Red-strake might otherwise without much injury be planted at fifteen or twenty foot distance, and the best distance for other Cider-fruit hath heretofore been reputed thirty, or two and thirty foot; very good husbands do now allow in their largest Enclosures (as of 20, 40 or 100 Acres) fifty or sixty foot distance, that the Trees may not much hinder the Blow, and yet receive the benefit of Compost; and a Horse-teem well governed will (without any damage of danger) blow close to the Trees.  
36. In such soil as is here required, namely of good Tillage, an Orchard of graffed Redstrakes will be of good growth, and good burden, within ten or twelve years, and branch out with good store to begin an encouragement at three years graffing; and (except the land be very unkind) will not yield to any decay within sixty or eighty years, which is a man's age.  
37. In some sheets I rendered many Reasons against Mr. Austi● of Oxford, why we should prefer a peculiar Cider fruit, which in Herefordshire are generally called Musts; (so we name both the Apple and the Liquor, and Pulp as mingled together in the contusion) as from the Latin Mustum. White-Musts of divers kinds, Red-cheeked and Red-straked Musts of several kinds, Green-Musts called also Green-fillet, and Blew-spotted: Why, I say, we should prefer them for Cider, before Table-fruit, as Pippins, Pearmains, etc. And I do still insist on them: 1. The Liquor of these Cider-fruits and of many kinds of austere fruit, which are no better than a sort of full succulent Crabs, is more sprightful, brisk and winy. For Essay, I sent up many bottles to London, that did me no discredit. Secondly, One bushel of the Cider-fruit yields twice or thrice as much liquor. Thirdly, The Tree grows more in three or four years than the other in ten years, as I oft times remarked. Fourthly, The Tree bears far greater store, and doth more generally escape Blasts and Frosts of the Spring. I might add, that some of these, and especially such Pears as yield the best Perry, will best escape the hand of the Thief, and may be trusted in the open field.  
38. By the first, second and fourth of these Reasons, I must exclude the Gennet-Moyle from a right Cider-fruit, it being dry and very apt to take frosty blasts; yet it is no Table-fruit, but properly a baking fruit, as the ruddy colour from the Oven shows.  
39 I said that the right Cider-fruit generally called Musts, and deserving the Latin name Mustum, is of divers kinds; and I have need to note more expressly that there is a Red-straked Must (as I have often seen) but not generally known, that is quite differing from the famous Red-strake, being much less, somewhat oblong and like some of the white Musts in shape, and full of a very good winy liquor. I could willingly name the persons and place where the distinct kinds are best known: it was first showed me by john Nash of Ashperton in Herefordshire; and for some years they did in some places distinguish a Red-strake, as yielding a richer Red-straked Cider of a more fulvous or ruddy colour; but this difference, as far as I could find, is but a choice of a better insolated or ruddy fruit of the best kind, as taken from the South part of the Tree, or from a soil that renders them richer. But my Lord Scudamore's is safely of the best sort; and M. Whingate of the Grange in Dimoc, and some of King's-capel, do best know these and other differences, Straked-Must, right Red-strake, Red-Redstrake, etc.  
40. The greenish Must, (formerly called in the Language of the Country, the Green-fillet) when the Liquor is of a kindly ripeness, retains a greeness equal to the Rhenish-glass; which I note for them that conceive no Cider to be fit for use till it be of the colour of old Sack.  
41. To direct a little more caution, for enquiry of the right Red-strake, I should give notice that some Months ago, M. Philip's of Montague in Somersetshire, shown me a very fair large Red-strake Apple, that by smell and sight seemed to me and to another of Herefordshire then with me to be the best Red strake; but when we did cut it, and taste it, we both denied it to be right (the other with much more confidence than myself) but M. Philip's making Cider of it, this week invited me to it, assuring that already it equals or resembles High-country-wines. It had not such plenty of juice as our Red strikes with us, and it had more of the pleasantness of Table-fruit, which might be occasioned, for aught I know, by the purer and quicker soil. This Apple is here called Meriot-Ysnot, and great store of them are at Meriot, a Village not far distant: Possibly, this Meriot may prove to be the Red-strake of Somerset shire, when they shall please to try it apart with equal diligence and constancy as they do in Hereford-shire: This fruit is of a very lovely hue, and by some conceived to be of Affinity to the Red-Iersey Apple, which is reported to tinge so deeply: In truth, there can hardly be a deeper Purple, than is our right Herefordshire Red-strake, having a few streaks towards the Eye, of a dark colour, or Orange-tawny intermingled: But, 'tis no wonder if an Apple should change its Name in travelling so far beyond the Severn, when even in this Country, most sorts of Apples, and especially, Cider-fruit, loseth the Name in the next Village.  
42. I may now ask why we should talk of other Cider-fruit or Perry, if the best Red strake have all the aforesaid pre-eminencies of richer and more winy liquor, by half sooner an Orchard, more constantly bearing, etc. An Orchard of Redstrakes is commonly as full of fruit at ten years, as other Cider-fruit at twenty years, or as the Pepin and Pearmain at thirty or thereabout.  
43. To this may be Answered, that all soils bear not Apples, and to some soils other Apples may be more kind, and if we be driven to Perry, much we may say both in behalf of the Perry, and of the Pear, of the fruit, and of the Tree; It is the goodlier Tree for a Grove, to shelter a house and walks from Summers' heat and Winter's cold Winds, and far more lasting; the pleasantest Cider-pear of a known name amongst them, is the Horse-pear. And it is much argued, whether the White-horse-pear, or the Red-horse-pear be the better; where both are best, within two Miles they differ in judgement. The Pear bears almost its weight of sprightful winy Liquor; and I always preferred the tawny or ruddy Horse-pear, and generally that colour in all Pears that are proper for Perry.  
44. I rejected Palladius against the durableness of Perry; his words are, Hyeme durat, sed prima acescit aestate, Tit. 25. Febr. possibly so of common Pears, and in hotter Countries; but from good Cellars I have tasted a very brisk lively and winy liquor of these Horse-pears during the end of Summer; and a Bosbury-pear I have named and often tried, which without bottleing, in common Hogsheads of vulgar and indifferent Cellars, proves as well pleasanter as richer the second year, and yet also better the third year. A very honest, worthy and witty Gentleman of that neighbourhood would engage to me, that in good Cellars, and in careful custody, it passeth any account of decay, and may be heightened to a kind of Aquavitae. I take the information worthy the stile of our modern improvements.  
The Pear-tree grows in common fields and wild stony ground, to the largeness of bearing one, two, three or four Hogsheads each year.  
45. This Bosbury-tree, and such generally that bear the most lasting Liquor and winy, is of such unsufferable taste, that hungry Swine will not smell to it; or if hunger tempt them to taste, at first crush they shake it out of their mouths; (I say not this of the Horse-pear) and the Clowns call other Pears, of best Liquor, Choak-pears, and will offer money to such as dare adventure to taste them, for their sport; and their mouths will be more stupefied than at the root of Wake-robin.  
46. A row of Crabtrees will give an improvement to any kind of Perry; and since Pears and Crabs may be of as many kinds as there are kernels, or different kinds or mixtures of soils; in a general Character I would prefer the largest and fullest of all austere juices.  
47. M. lil of Mark-hill (aged about 90 years) ever observed this Rule, to grass no wild Pear-tree till he saw the fruit; if it proved large, juicy, and brisk, it failed not of good Liquor. But I see cause to say, that to graft a young tree with a riper graft, and known excellency, is a sure gain and hastens the return.  
48. M. Speke (last high Sheriff of Somersetshire) shown me in his Park some store of Crabtrees, of such huge Bulk, that in this fertile year he offered a wager, that they would yield one or two Hogsheads of Liquor each of them; yet were they small dry Crabs.  
49. I have seen several sorts of Crabs (which are the natural Apple, or at worst but the Wild-Apple) which are as large as many sorts of Apples, and the Liquor winy.  
50. I have disclaimed the Gust of juniper-berries in Cider; I tried it only once for myself, and drank it before Christmas: possibly in more time the relish had been subdued or improved, as of Hops in stolen Beer, and of Rennet in good Parmesan. Neither was the Gust to me otherwise unpleasant than as Anniseseeds in Bread, rather strange than odious; and by custom made grateful, and it did hasten the clarification, and increase the briskness to an endless sparkling: thus it indulgeth the Lungs, and nothing more cheap; where juniper grows a Girl may speedily fill her lap with the Berries.  
If Barbados Ginger be good, cheaper, and a more pleasant preserver of Beer, it must probably be most kind for Cider: For first, of all the improvers that I could name, bruised Mustard was the best; and this Ginger hath the same quick, mordicant vigour, in a more noble and more Aromatic fragrancy. Secondly, Cider (as I oft complain) is of a sluggish and somewhat windy nature; and for some Months the best of it is chained up with a cold ligature, as we fancy the fire to be locked up in a cold Flint. This will relieve the prisoner. And thirdly, will assist the winy vigour for them that would use it instead of a sparkling Wine. Fourthly, 'Tis a good sign of much kindness, and great friendship: it will both enliven the ferment for speedier maturity, and also hold it out for more duration, both which offices it performs in Beer.  
51. Cider being windy before maturity, some that must not wait the leisure of best Season do put sprigs of Rosemary and Bays in the Vessel; the first good for the head, and not unpleasant; the second, an Antidote against Infections; but less pleasant till time hath incorporated the Tastes.  
52. And why may we not make mention of all these Mixtures, as well as the Ancients of their Vinum Marrubii, Vinum Abrotonites, Absynthites, Hyssopites, Marathites, Thymites, Cydonites, Myrtites, Scillites, Violaceum, Sorbi, etc.  
53. And, for mixtures, I think we may challenge the Ancients, in naming the Red-raspy; of which there is in this County a Lady that makes a Bonella, the best of Summer drinks. And more yet if we name the Clove-july-flower, or other july-flowers, a most grateful Cordial, as it is infused by a Lady in Staffordshire, of the Family of the Devereuxes, and by some Ladies of this Country.  
54. I could also give some account of Cherry-wine, and Wine of Plums; the last of which (in the best Essay that I have yet seen) is hardly worthy to be named: But, I conceive, and have ground for it, that some good Liquor and Spirits may be drawn from some sorts of them, and in quantity: And the vast store of Cherrys in some places, under a penny the pound, and of Plums that bend the Trees with their burdens, and their expedite growth makes it cheap enough, and as in the other, so in these, the large English or Dutch sharp Cherry, makes the Cherry-wine, and the full black, tawny Plum, as big as a Walnut (not the kind of Heart-Cherrys, nor the Plum which divides from the stone) make the Wine. Their cheapness should recommend them to more general use at Tables, when dried like Prunellas (an easy art) and then wholesomer.  
55. To return for Red-strake; 'tis a good drink as soon as well fermented, or within a Month, better after some Frosts, and when clarified; rich Wine, when it takes the colour of old Sack. In a good Cellar it improves in Hogsheads the second year; in Bottles and sandy Cellars keeps the Records of late revolutions and old Majoralties. Quaere the manner of laying them up in sand-houses.  
56. I tried some Bottles all a Summer in the bottom of a Fountain; and I prefer that way where it may be had. And 'tis somewhat strange if the Land be neither dry for a sand-house, nor fountainous for this better expedient. When Cider is settled, and altogether, or almost clarified, then to make it sprightful and winy, it should be drawn into well corked and well bound bottles and kept some time in sand or water; the longer the better, if the kind be good. And Cider being preserved to due age, bottled (and kept in cool places, conservatories, and refrigerating springs) it does almost by time turn to Aquavitae; the Bottles smoke at the opening, and it catches flame speedily, and will burn like spirit of Wine, with a fiery taste; and it is a laudable way of trying the vigour of Cider by its promptness to burn, and take fire, and from the quantity of Aquavitae which it yields. Cider affords by way of Distillation, an incomparable and useful Spirit, and that in such plenty, as from four Quarts, a full Pint has been extracted.  
57 I must not prescribe to other Palates, by asserting to what degree of Perfection good Cider may be raised, or to compare it with Wines: But when the late King (of blessed memory) came to Hereford in his distress, and such of the Gentry of Worcestershire as were brought thither as Prisoners; both King, Nobility, and Gentry, did prefer it before the best Wines those parts afforded; and to my knowledge that Cider had no kind of Mixture. Generally all the Gentry of Herefordshire do abhor all mixtures.  
Yet if any man have a desire to try conclusions, and by an harmless Art to convert Cider into Canary-wine; let the Cider be of the former year, Masculine and in full body, yet pleasant and well tasted: into such Cider put a spoonful, or so, of the spirit of Clary, it will have so much of the race of Canary, as may deceive some who pretend they have discerning Palates.   

Sir PAUL NEIL's DISCOURSE OF CIDER.  
My Lord,  
IN obedience to the Commands of this Honourable Society, I have at length endeavoured to give this brief Account of that little which I know concerning the Ordering of Cider; and in that I shall propound to myself six things.  
First, To show that Cider made of the best Eating-apples must needs be once the best; (that is to say) the pleasantest Cider.  
Secondly, That hitherto the general opinion hath been otherwise, and that the reason of that mistake was the not apprehending the true cause why the Pepin-cider, etc. did not retain its sweetness, when the Hard-apple-cider did.  
Thirdly, What is the true cause that Pepin-cider, used in the ordinary method, will not retain its sweetness.  
Fourthly, How to cure that evil in Pepin-cider.  
Fifthly, A probable conjecture, how in some degree by the same Method to amend the Hard-apple-cider, and French-Wine.  
Sixthly, That what is here propounded cannot choose but be wholesome, and may be done to what degree every man's Palate shall wish.  
Having now told your Lordship, what I will endeavour to do before I enter upon it, I must declare what I will not in the least pretend to do.  
1. I do not pretend to any thing concerning the planting and graffing of Trees, etc.  
Nor what Trees will soon bear or last longest.  
Nor what sorts of Trees are the best bearers, and may with lea●● danger grow in Common fields.  
Nor what sort of fruit will yield the greatest store of Cider.  
Nor what Cider will keep the longest, and be the strongest, and wholesomest to drink constantly with meat.  
The only thing I shall endeavour, being to prescribe a way to make a sort of Cider pleasant and quick of taste, and yet wholesome to drink, sometimes, and in a moderate proportion: For, if this be an Heresy, I must confess myself guilty; that I prefer Canary wine, Verdea, the pleasantest Wines of Greece, and the High-country-wines before the harsh Sherries, Vin de Hermitage, and the Italian and Portugal rough Wines, or the best Graves-wines; not at all regarding that I am told, and do believe, that these harsh wines are more comfortable to the stomach, and a Surfeit of them less noxious, when taken; nor to be taken but with drinking greater quantities than can wi●● safety be taken of those other pleasant Wines: I satisfying myself with this, that I like the pleasant Wines best; which yet are so wholesome, that a man may drink a moderate quantity of them without prejudice.  
Nor shall I at all concern myself, whether this sort of Cider I pretend to is so vinous a liquor; and consequently will yield so much spirit upon Distillation, or so soon make the Countryman think himself a Lord, as the Hard-apple-cider will do: nor whether it will last so long; for it is no part of my design to persuade the World to lay by the making of Hard-apple-cider; but rather in a degree to show how to improve that in point of pleasantness, and that by the making and rightly ordering of Cider of the best Eating-Apples; as Golden-pepins, Kentish-pepins, Pearmains, etc. there may be made a more pleasant liquor for the time it will last, than can be produced from those Apples which I call Hard-Apples, that is to say, Redstrakes, Gennet-moyles, the Broms●ury-Crab, etc. which are so harsh that a Hog will hardly eat them.  
Nor shall I at all meddle with the making of Perry, or of any mixed drink of the juice of Apples and Pears; though possibly what I shall say for Cider may be aptly applied to Perry also.  
For the first particular, I asserted that the best Apples would make the pleasantest, which in my sense is the best Cider; (and I account those the best Apples, whose juice is the pleasantest at the time when first pressed, before fermentation) I shall need (besides the experience of the last ten years) only to say, that it is an undeniable thing in all Wines, that the pleasantest Grapes make the richest and pleasantest Wines; and that Cider is really but the Wine of Apples, and not only made by the same way of Compression; but left to itself hath the same way of Fermentation; and therefore must be liable to the same measures in the choice of the materials.  
To my second Assertion, that this truth was not formerly owned, by reason that in Herefordshire, and those Countries where they abound both with Pippins and hard-apples of all sorts, they made Cider of both sorts, and used them alike; that is, that as soon as they ground and pressed the Apples and strained the Liquor, they put it into their Vessels and there let it lie till it had wrought, and afterwards was settled again and fined; as not thinking it wholesome to drink till it had thus (as they call it) purged itself, and this was the frequent use of most men in the more Southern and Western parts of England also. Now when Cider is thus used, it is no wonder that when they came to broach it, they for the most part found their Pepin-cider not so pleasant as their Moil or Red strake cider; but to them it seemed a wonder, because they did not know the reason of it (which shall be my next work to make out) for till they knew the reason of this ●ffect, they had no cause but to think it was the nature of the several Apples that produced it; and consequently to prefer the Hard-Apple-cider, and to use the other Apples (which were good to eat raw) for the Table: which was an use not less necessary, and for which the hard-apples were totally improper.  
To my third Assertion, which is, that in Herefordshire they knew not what was the true cause why their Pepin-cider (for by that name I shall generally call all sorts of Cider that is made of Apples good to eat raw) was not, as they used it, so good as the Cider made of hard-apples (for by that name, for brevity's sake, I shall call the Cider of Moyle, Red-strake, and all other sorts of harsh Apples, not fit to eat raw.) First, I say, for all liquors that are Vinous, the cause that makes them sometimes harder or less pleasant to the taste, than they were at the first pressing, is the too much fermenting: If Wine or Cider by any accidental cause do ferment twice, it will be harder than if it had fermented but once; and if it ferment thrice, it is harder and worse than if it had fermented but twice: and so onward, the oftener it ferments and the longer it ferments, it still grows the harder. This being laid as a foundation, before we proceed further we must first consider what is the cause of fermentation in Wine, Cider, and all other Vinous Liquors. Which (in my poor opinion) is the gross part of the Liquor, which escapes in the straining of the Cider (for in making of Wine, I do not find that they use the curiosity of straining) and which is generally known by the name of the Lee of that (Wine or) Cider. And this Lee I shall, according to its thickness of parts, distinguish into the gross Lee, and the flying Lee.  
Now, according to the old method of making and putting up of Cider, they took little care of putting up only the clear part of the Cider into their Vessels or Cask; but put them up thick and thin together, not at all regarding this separation; for experimentally they found that how thick soever they put it up, yet after it had throughly wrought or fermented and was settled again, it would still be clear; and perchance that which was put up the soon after it was pressed and the thickest, would, when the fermentation was over, be the clearest, the briskest, and keep the longest. This made them confidently believe that it was not only not inconvenient to put it up quickly after the pressing, but in some degree necessary also to put it up soon after the pressing, so that it might have so much of the Lee mixed with it, that it might certainly, soon, and strongly put it into a fermentation, as the only means to make it wholesome, clean and brisk; and when it either did not (or that they had reason to doubt) that it would not work or ferment strongly enough, they have used to put in Mustard or some other thing of like nature to increase the fermentation.  
Now that which in Cider of Pippins hath been a cause of greater fermentation than in Cider of Hard-Apples, being both used after the former method, is this, that the Pippins being a softer fruit are in the Mill bruised into smaller particles than the harder sorts of Apples; and consequently more of those small parts pass the strainer in the Pepin-Cider than in the Cider of Hard-apples, which causeth a stronger fermentation, and (according to my former principle) a greater loss of the native sweetness than in that of Hard-app●e-cider; and not only so, but the Lee of the Hard-apple-cider being compounded of greater particles than the Lee of the Pepin-cider, every individual particle is in itself of a greater weight than the particles of the Lee of the Pepin-cider; and consequently less apt to rise upon small motions, which produceth this effect; that when the fermentation of the Hard-apple-cider is once over, unless the Vessel be stirred, it seldom falls to a second fermentation; but in Pepin-cider it is otherwise: For if the gross Lee be still remaining with the Cider, it needs not the motion of the Vessel to cause a new fermentation, but every motion of the Air by a change of weather from dry to moist will cause a new fermentation, and consequently make it work till it hath destroyed itself by losing its native sweetness. And this alone hath been the cause, why commonly when they broach their Pepin-cider they find it so unpleasant, that generally the Hard-apple-cider is preferred before it, although at first it was not so pleasant as the Pepin-cider. Yet after this mischief hath prevailed over the Pepin-cider, it is no wonder to find the Hard-apple-cider remaining not only the stronger, but even the more pleasant tasted. This to me seems satisfactory for the discovery of the cause, why in Herefordshire the Hard-apple-cider is preferred before the Pepin-cider. But perhaps it may be some be objected, that they have before the ten years, in which you pretend you found this to be the cause of spoiling the Pepin-cider, been in Herefordshire, and tasted the best Cider that Country did afford; and yet it was not like the Pepin-cider they had before then tasted in other parts. To this I do answer, at present, briefly, that by some mistake, or chance, the maker of this Pepin-cider, which proved good, had done that, or somewhat like that, which under the next Assertion I shall set down, as a Method to cure the inconveniences which happen to Pepin-cider, by the suffering it to ferment too often, or too strongly; but till that be explained it would be improper to show more fully what these particular accidents might possibly be, which (without the intention of those persons which made the Cider) caused it to prove much better than their expectation, or indeed better than any could afterwards make: they possibly assigning the goodness of that Cider to somewhat that was not really the cause of that effect.  
To justify my fourth Assertion, and show a Method how to cure the inconveniency which happens to Pepin-cider by the over-working, I must first take notice of some things which I have been often told concerning Wine, and which indeed gave me the light to know what was the cause which had made Pepin-cider that had wrought long, hard when it came to be clear again. The thing I mean, is, that in divers parts, and even in France they make three sorts of Wine out of one and the same Grapes; that is, they first take the juice of the Grapes without any more pressing than what comes from their own weight in the Vat, and the bruising they have in putting into Vessel, which causeth the ripest of those Grapes to break, and the juice without any pressing at all makes the pleasantest and most delicate Wine: And if the Grapes were red, then is this first Wine very pale. The second sort they press a little, which makes a redder Wine, but neither so pleasant as the first, nor so harsh as the last, which is made by the utmost pressing of the very skins of the Grapes, and is by much more harsh, and of deeper colour than either of the other two. Now I presume the cause of this (at least in part) to be, that in the first sort of Wine, which hath little of the substance, beside the very juice of the Grape, there is little Lee, and consequently little fermentation; and because it doth not work long, it loseth but little of the original sweetness it had: The second sort being a little more pressed hath somewhat more of the substance of the Grape added to the juice; and therefore having more of that part which causeth fermentation put with it, ferments more strongly, and is therefore▪ when it hath done working, less pleasant than the first sort, which wrought less. And for the same reason the third sort being most of all pressed, hath most of the substance of the Grape mingled with the Liquor, and worketh the longest: but at the end of the working when it settles and is clear, it is much more harsh than either of the two first sorts. The thought of this made me first apprehend that the substance of the Apple mingled with the juice, was the cause of fermentation, which is really nothing else but an endeavour of the Liquor to free itself from those Heterogeneous parts which are mingled with it: And where there is the greatest proportion of those dissimilar parts mingled with the Liquor, the endeavour of Nature must be the stronger, and take up more time to perfect the separation: which when finished leaves all the Liquor clear, and the gross parts settled to the bottom of the Vessel; which we call the Lee. Nor did this apprehension deceive me; for when I began (according to the Method which I shall hereafter set down) to separate a considerable part of the Lee from the Cider before it had fermented, I found it to retain a very great part of its original sweetness, more than it would have done if the Lee had not been taken away before the fermentation; and this not once, but constantly for seven years.  
Now the Method which I used, was this: When the Cider was first strained, I put it into a great Vat, and there let it stand twenty four hours at least (sometimes more, if the Apples were more ripe than ordinary) and then at a tap before prepared in the Vessel three or four inches from the bottom I drew it into pails, and from thence filled the Hogshead (or lesser Vessel) and left the greatest part of the Lee behind; and during this time that the Cider stood in the Vat, I kept it as close covered with hair-clothes or sacks as I could; that so too much of the spirits might not evaporate.  
Now possibly I might be asked why I did not, since I kept it so close in the Vat, put it at first into the Vessel? To which I answer, that had I put it at first into the Vessel, it would possibly (especially if the weather had chanced to prove wet and warm) have begun to ferment before that time had been expired; and then there would have been no possibility to have separated any part of the gross Lee, before the fermentation had been wholly finished; which keeping it only covered with these clothes was not in danger: For, though I kept it warm in some degree, yet some of the spirits had still liberty to evaporate; which had it been in the Hogshead with the Bung only open, they would not so freely have done; but in the first 24 hours it would have begun to ferment, and so my design had been fully lost: For those spirits if they had been too strongly reverberated into the Liquor, would have caused a fermentation before I could have taken away any part of the gross Lee. For the great mystery of the whole thing lies in this, to let so many of the spirits evaporate, that the liquor shall not ferment before the gross Lee be taken away; and yet to keep spirits enough to cause a fermentation when you would have it. For if you put it up as soon as it is strained, and do not let some of the spirits evaporate, and the gross Lee by its weight only to be separated without fermentation, it will ferment too much and lose its sweetness; and if none be left, it will not ferment at all; and then the Cider will be dead, flat and sour.  
Then after it is put into the Vessel, and the Vessel filled all but a little (that is, about a Gallon or thereabout) I let it stand (the Bunghole being left only covered with a paper, to keep out any dust or filth that might fall in) for 24 hours more; in which time the grossest part of the Lee being formerly left in the Vat, it will not ferment, but you may draw it off by a Tap some two or three inches from the bottom of the Vessel, and in that second Vessel you may stop it up, and let it stand safely till it be fit to Bottle; and possibly that will be within a day or more: but of this time there is no certain measure to be given; there being so many things that will make it longer, or less while before it be fit to bottle. As for Example, If the Apples were over-ripe when you stamped them, or ground them in the Mill, it will be the longer before it will be clear enough to Bottle; or if the weather prove to be warmer or moister than ordinary: or that your Apples were of such kinds, as with the same force in the stamping or grinding they are broken into smaller particles than other Apples that were of harder kinds.  
Now, for knowing when it is fit to Bottle, I know no certain Rule that can be given, but to broach the Vessel with a small Piercer, and in that hole fit a peg, and now and then (two or three times in a day) draw a little, and see what fineness it is of; for when it is bottled it must not be perfectly fine; for if it be so, it will not fret in the bottle, which gives it a fine quickness, and will make it mantle and sparkle in the glass, when you pour it out: And if it be too thick when it is bottled, then, when it hath stood some time in the bottles it will ferment so much that it may possibly either drive out the Corks, or break the bottles, or at least be of that sort (which some call Potgun-drink) that when you open the bottles it will fly about the house, and be so windy and cutting that it will be inconvenient to drink: For the right temper of Bottle-Cider is, that it mantle a little and sparkle when it is put out into the glass; but if it froth and fly, it was bottled too soon: Now the temper of the Cider is so nice, that it is very hard when you bottle it to foretell which of these two conditions it will have: but it is very easy within a few days after (that is to say, about a week, or so) to find its temper as to this point. For first, if it be bottled too soon; by this time it will begin to ferment in the Bottles, and in that case you must open the Bottles, and let them stand open two or three minutes, that that abundance of spirits may have Vent, which otherwise kept in would in a short time make it of that sort I called before Potgun-drink; but being let out, that danger will be avoided, and the Cider (without danger of breaking the bottles) will keep and ferment, but not too much. Now this is so easy a remedy, that I would advise all men rather to err on the hand of bottling it too soon, than let it be too fine when they bottle it; for if so, it will not fret in the bottle at all; and consequently, want that briskness which is desirable.  
Yet even in this case there is a Remedy, but such a one as I am always very careful to avoid, that so I may have nothing (how little soever) in the Cider but the juice of the Apple: But the remedy is, in case you be put to a necessity to use it, that you open every bottle after it hath been bottled about a week or so, and put into each bottle a little piece of white Sugar, about the bigness of a Nutmeg, and this will set it into a little fermentation, and give it that briskness which otherwise it would have wanted. But the other way being full as easy, and then nothing to be added but the juice of the Apple to be simply the substance of your Cider, I choose to prefer the error of being in danger to bottle the Cider too soon, rather than too late: Nay sometimes in the bottling of one and the same Hogshead (or other Vessel) of Cider, there may the first part of it be too fine; the second part well; and the last not fine enough: and this happens when it is broached first above the middle, and then below; and then when it gins to run low, tilted or raised at the further end, and so all drawn out. But to avoid this inconvenience, I commonly set the bottles in the order they were filled, and so we need not open all to see the condition of the Cider; but trying one at each end, and one in the middle, will serve the turn: And to prevent the inconveniency, broach not at all above the middle, nor too low; and when you have drawn all that will run at the Tap, you may be secure it is so far of the same temper with the first bottle. And then tilt the Vessel; but draw no more in three or four hours at the least after, and set them by themselves, that so, if you please, you may three or four days after pour them off into other bottles, and leave the gross behind: And by this means though you have a less number of bottles of Cider than you had, yet this will continue good, and neither be apt to fly, nor have a sediment in the bottle, which after the first glass is filled will render all the rest of the bottle thick and muddy.  
By all this which I have said, I think it may be made out that those persons which I mentioned in the end of the last Paragraph, that sometimes had Pepin-cider better than ordinary, and indeed then they could make again, were beholding to chance for it; either that their Apples were not so full ripe at that as at other times, and so not bruised into so small parts; but the fermentation was ended in the Vessel, and the Lee being then gross settled before the Cider had fermented so long as to be hard.  
Or else, by some Accident they had not put it so soon into the Vessel, but that in part it was settled before they put it up, and the grossest part of the Lee left out of the Vessel.  
Or else, the Bung being left open some part of the spirits evaporated; and that made the fermentation the weaker, and to last the less time.  
Or else, they put it up in such a season that the weather continued cold and frosty till the fermentation was quite over; and than it having wrought the less time, and with the less violence, it remained more pleasant and rich than otherwise it would have done.  
Now for the time of making Pepin-cider, I choose to do it in the beginning of November, after the Apples had been gathered and laid about three weeks or more in the loft, that so the Apples might have had a little time to sweat in the house before the Cider was made, but not too much; for if they be not full ripe before they be gathered, and not suffered to lie a while in the heap, the Cider will not be so pleasant; and if they be too ripe when they are gathered, or lie too long in the heap, it will be very difficult to separate the Cider from the gross Lee before the fermentation gins: and in that case it will work so long, that when it fines the Cider will be hard; for when the Apples are too mellow, they break into so small particles, that it will be long before the Lee settles by its weight only: and then the fermentation may begin before it be separated, and so destroy your intention of taking away the gross Lee. And if the Apples be not mellow enough, the Cider will not be so pleasant as it ought to be.  
This being said for the time of making the Pepin-Cider, may (mutatis mutandis) serve for all other sorts of Summer-fruit; as the Kentish-codling, Marigolds, Gillyflowers, Summer-pearmains, Summer-pepins, Holland-pepins, Golden-pepins, and even Winter-pearmains. For though they must not be made at the same time of the year, yet they must be made at the time when each respective fruit is in the same condition that I before directed that the Winter-pepin should be. Nay, even in the making of that Cider, you are not tied to that time of the year to make your Cider; but as the condition of that particular year hath been, you may make your Cider one, two, three or four weeks later; but it will be very seldom that you shall need to begin to make Kentish-pepin-Cider before the beginning of November, even in the most Southern parts of England.  
The next thing I shall mention, is, the ordering of your bottles after they are filled; for in that consists no small part of causing your Cider to be in a just condition to drink: For, if it does ferment too much in the bottle, it will not be so convenient to drink, neither for the taste, nor wholsomness; and if it ferment not at all, it will want that little fret which makes it grateful to most Palates. In order to this, you must observe, first, whether the Cider were bottled too early, or too late, or in the just time: If too early, and that it hath too much of the flying Lee in it, than you must keep it as cool as you can, that it may not work too much, and if so little that you doubt it will not work at all, or too little; you must by keeping it from the inconvenience of the external air, endeavour to hasten and increase the fermentation. And this I do, by setting it in sand to cool, and by covering the bottles very well with straw, when I would hasten or increase the fermentation.  
And if I find the Cider to have been bottled in its just time, than I use neither, in ordinary weather; but content myself that it stands in a close and cool Cellar, either upon the ground, or upon shelves; saving in the time that I apprehend frost, I cover it with straw, which I take off as soon as the weather changeth; and consequently about the time that the cold East winds cease; which usually with us, is in the beginning of April; I set my bottles into sand up to the necks. And by this means I have kept Pepin-cider without change till September, and might have kept it longer, if my store had been greater: For by that time the heats were totally over, and consequently, the cause of the turn of Cider.  
Having now declared what is (according to my opinion) to be done to preserve Cider, if not in its original sweetness, yet to let it lose as little as is possible; I shall now fall upon my fifth Assertion, which is, that it is probable that somewhat like the former Method may in some degree mend Hard-Apple-cider, Perry, or a drink made of the mixtures of Apples and Pears; and not impossible that somewhat of the same nature may do good to French-wines also.  
First, for French-wines, I think what I have in the beginning of this discourse declared, as the hint which first put me upon the conceit, that the over- fermenting of Cider was the cause that it lost of its original sweetness (viz. the making of three sorts of Wine, of one sort of Grapes) is a testimony that the first sort of Wine hath but little of the gross Lee, and consequently, ferments but little, nor loseth but little of the original sweetness; which makes it evident that the same thing will hold in Wine, which doth in Cider; but the great difficulty is (if I be rightly informed) that they use to let the Wine begin to ferment in the Vat before they put it into the Hogsheads or other Vessels; and thus they do, that the Husks and other Filth (which in the way they use, must necessarily be mingled with the Wine) may rise in a scum at the top, and so be taken off: Now if they please, as soon as it is pressed, to pass the Wine through a strainer, without expecting any such purgation, and then use the same Method formerly prescribed for Cider, I do not doubt but the gross part of the Lee of Wines, being thus taken away, there will yet be enough left to give it a fermentation in the bottles, or second vessel, where it shall be left to stand, in case you have not bottles enough to put up all the Wine from which you have thus taken away the gross Lee.  
This Wine I know not whether it will last so long as the other used in the ordinary way, or not; but this I confidently believe, it will not be so harsh as the same would have been if it had been used in the ordinary way; and the pleasantness of Taste, which is not unwholesome, is the chief thing which I prefer both in Wine and Cider.  
Now for the Hard-apple-Cider, that it will receive an improvement by this way of ordering, hath been long my opinion; but this year an accident happened, which made it evident that I was not mistaken in this conjecture. For there was a Gentleman of Herefordshire, this last Autumn, that by accident had not provided Cask enough for the Cider he had made; and having six or seven Hogsheads of Cider for which he had no Cask, he sent to Worcester, Gloucester, and even to Bristol, to buy some, but all in vain; and when his servants returned, the Cider that wanted Cask had been some five days in the Vat uncovered; and the Gentleman being then dispatching a Bark for London with Cider, and having near hand a conveniency of getting Glass-bottles, resolved to put some of it into bottles; did so, and filled seven or eight Hampers with the clearest of this Cider in the Vat, which had then never wrought, nor been put into any other Vessel but the Vat; the Bark in which his Cider came had a tedious passage; that is, it was at least seven weeks before it came to London, and in that time most of his Cider in Cask had wrought so much that it was much harder than it would have been if it had according to the ordinary way lain still in the Country, in the place where it was first made and put up, and consequently, wrought but once.  
But the other, which was in Bottles, and escaped the breaking, that is, by accident, had less of the Lee in it than other bottles had, or was not so hard stopped, but either before there was force enough from the fermentation to break the bottle, or that the Cork gave way a little, and so the air got out; or that the Bottles were not originally well corked, was excellent good, beyond any Cider that I had tasted out of Herefordshire; so that from this Experience I dare confidently say, that the using Hard-apple-cider after the former Method, prescribed for Pepin-cider, will make it retain a considerable part of sweetness more than it can do after the Method used hitherto in Herefordshire. Nor do I doubt but my Method will in a degree have the same effect in Perry, and the drink (as yet without a name that I do know of) which is made of the juice of Wardens, Pears, and Apples, by several persons, in several proportions; for the Reason being the same, I have no cause to doubt, but the effect will follow, as well in those Drinks, as in Cider and Wines.  
I am now come to my last Assertion; that Cider thus used cannot be unwholesome, but may be done to what degree any man's Palate desires.  
First, It cannot be unwholesome, upon the same measure that stummed Wine is so; for that unwholesomeness is by leaving the cause of fermentation in the Wine, and not suffering it to produce its effect before the Wine be drank, and it ferments in man's body: and not only so, but sets other humours in the body into fermentation; and this prejudiceth their health that drink such Wines.  
Now though Cider used in my method should not ferment at all, till it come into the bottle, and then but a little; yet the cause of fermentation being in a great degree taken away, the rest can do no considerable harm to those which drink it, being in itself but little, and having wrought in the bottle before men drink it; nor indeed do I think, nor ever find, that it did any inconvenience to myself, or any person that drank it when it was thus used.  
Secondly, because the difference of men's palates and constitutions is very great; and that accordingly men like or dislike drink that hath more or less of the fret in it; and that the consequences in point of health are very different, in the method by me formerly prescribed: it is in your power to give the Cider just as much fret as you please, and no more; and that by several ways: for either you may bottle it sooner or later, as you please: or you may bottle it from two Taps in your Vessel, and that from the higher Tap will have less fret, and the lower more: or you may bottle your Cider all from one Tap, and open some of the bottles about a week after for a few minutes, and then stop them up again; and that which was thus stopped will have the less fret: or, if your Cider be bottled all from one Tap, if you will (even without opening the bottles) you may make some difference, though not so considerable as either of the former ways, by keeping part of the bottles warmer, for the first two Months, than the rest; for that which is kept warmest will have the most fret.   

Sir PAUL NEILE'S second Paper.  
My Lord,  
THe Paper which by the Command of the Royal Society I delivered in the last year, concerning the ordering of Cider, I have by this years experience found defective in one particular, of which I think fit by this to give you notice, which is thus: Whereas in the former Paper I mention, that after the Pepin-Cider hath stood 24 hours in the Vat, it might be drawn off into Pails, and so put into the Vessel; and that having stood a second 24 hours in that Vessel, it might be drawn into another Vessel, in which it might stand till it were fit to Bottle; for the particulars of all which proceeding I refer to the former Paper; and shall now only mention, That this last year we were fain to draw it off into several Vessels, not only as is there directed, twice, but most of our Cider five, and some six times; and not only so, but we were after all this fain to precipitate the Lee by some of those ways mentioned by Dr. Willis in the 7th Chap. of his Treatise De fermentatione. Now though this be more of trouble than the Method by me formerly mentioned; yet it doth not in the least destroy that Hypothesis which in the former Discourse I laid down, (viz.) That it was the leaving too much of the Lee with the Cider, which upon the change of air, set it into a new fermentation, and consequently made it lose the sweetness; for this change by the indisposition of the Lee to settle this year more than others, hath not hindered the goodness of the Cider; but that when it was at last mastered, and the Cider bottled in a fit temper, it was never more pleasant and quick than this year: but I find that this year our Cider of Summer-Apples is already turned sour, although it be now but the first of january; and the last year it kept very well till the beginning of March; which makes me fear that our Pepin-Cider will not keep till this time twelvemonth, as our Pepin-Cider of the last year doth till this day, and still retains its original pleasantness without the least turn towards sourness.  
And I am very confident, the difference of time and trouble, which this year we found in getting the Cider to fine and be in a condition to Bottle, was only the effect of a very bad and wet Summer, which made the Fruit not ripen kindly; and to make it yet worse, we had just at the time when we made our Cider, this year, extreme wet and windy weather, which (added to the unkindliness of the Fruit) was the whole cause of this alteration: And however my Hypothesis as yet remains firm, for if by taking any part of the Lee from the Cider you can preserve it in its original sweetness, it is not at all material whether it be always to be done by twice drawing off from the Lee, or that it must sometimes be done with more trouble, and by oftener repeating the same Work, so that finally it be done, and by the same means, that is, by taking away part of the Lee, which otherwise would have caused too much fermentation; and consequently have made the Cider lose part of its original sweetness.  
My Lord, I should not have presumed to have given you and the Society the trouble of perusing this Paper, but that, if possible, I would have you see, that what I think an error in any opinion that I have held, I am willing to own; and yet I desire not that you should think my mistake greater than in Reality it is.   

OBSERVATIONS Concerning the Making, and Preserving OF CIDER:  BY JOHN NEWBURGH Esq 

1.  
IF the Apples are made up immediately from the Tree, they are observed to yield more, but not so good Cider, as when hoarded the space of a Month so six weeks; and if they contract any unpleasing taste (as sometimes 'tis confessed they do) it may be imputed to the Room they lie in, which if it hath any thing in it, of either too sweet or unsavoury smell, the Apples (as things most susceptible of impression) will be easily tainted thereby.  
One of my acquaintance, when a child, hoarding Apples in a Box where Rose-Cakes and other sweets were their companions, found them of so unsavoury taste, and of so rank a relish derived from the too near neighbourhood of the Perfumes, that even a childish palate (which seldom mislikes any thing that looks like an Apple) could not dispense with it.   

2.  
It is therefore observed by prudent Fruiterers, to lay their Apples upon clean new made Reed, till they grind them for Cider, or otherwise make use of them. And if, notwithstanding this caution, they contract any rottenness before they come to the Cider-press, the damage will not be great, if care be had before the Apples be ground, to pick out the finnewed and the black-rotten; the rest, though somewhat of putrefaction hath passed upon them, will not render the Cider ill conditioned, either in respect of taste, or duration.  
A Friend of mine having made provision of Apples for Cider, whereof so great a part were found rotten when the time of grinding them came, that they did, as 'twere wash the Room with their Juice, through which they were carried to the Wring, had Cider from them not only passable, but exceeding good; though not without previous use of the pre-mentioned Caution. I am also assured by a Neighbour of mine, That a Brother of his who is a great Cider-Merchant in Devonshire, is by frequent experience so well satisfied of the harmlesness of Rotten-Apples, that he makes no scruple of exchanging with any one that comes to his Cider-press, a Bushel of sound-Apples for the same measure of the other. Herein, I suppose, (if in other respects they be not prejudicial) he may be a gainer by the near compression of the tainted Fruit, which, as we speak in our Country Phrase, will go nearer together than the other. His advantage may be the greater, if the conceit which goes current with them be not a bottomless fancy, That a convenient quantity of rotten-Apples mixed with the sound, is greatly assistant to the work of fermentation, and notably helps to clarify the Cider.   

3.  
It matters not much whether the Cider be forced to purge itself by working downwards in the Barrel, or upwards at the usual Vent, so there be matter sufficient left on the top for a thick skin or film, which will sometimes be drawn over it when it works, after the usual manner, as when 'tis presently stopped up with space left for fermentation, to be performed altogether within the Vessel.  
The thick skin, or Leathern-coat, the Cider oftentimes contracts, as well after it hath purged itself after the usual manner, as otherwise, is held the surest preservation of its spirits, and the best security against other inconveniences incident to this, and other like vinous Liquors, of which the Devonshire Cider-Merchants are so sensible, that, beside the particular care they take, that matter be not wanting for the Contexture of this upper garment by stopping up the Vessel as soon as they have filled it; (with the allowance of a Gallon or two upon the score of Fermentation) they cast in Wheaten Bran, or Dust, to thicken the Coat, and render it more certainly Air-proof. And I think you will believe their care in this kind not impertinent, if you can believe a story which I have to tell of its marvellous efficacy: A near neighbour of mine assures me, that his Wife having this year filled a Barrel with Mead, being strong, it wrought so boisterously in the Vessel, that the good Woman casting her eye that way, accidentally, found it leaking at every chink, which ascribing to the strength of the Liquor, she thought immediately by giving it vent, to save both the Liquor and the Vessel, but in vain; both the Stopples being pulled out, the leakage still continued, and the Vessel not at all relieved, till casually at length putting in her finger at the top, she broke the prementioned film; which done, a good part of the Mead immediately flying out, left the residue in peace, and the leakage ceased. It may seem incredible that so thin a skin should be more coercive to a mutinous Liquor, than a Barrel with Oaken-Ribs, and stubborn Hoops: But I am so well assured of the veritableness of my Neighbour's Relation, that I dare not question it: The reason of it let wiser men determine.   

4.  
If the Apples be abortive, having been (as it usually happens) shaken down before the time by a violent Wind, it is observed to be so indispensably necessary that they lie together in hoard, at least till the usual time of their maturity, that the Cider otherwise is seldom, or never found worth the drinking.  
A Neighbour told me, That making a quantity of Cider with Windfalls which he let ripen in the Hoard, near a month interceding between the time of their decussion, and that which Nature intended for their maturity; his Cider proved very good, when all his Neighbours who made up their untimely fruit assoon as it fell, had a crude, austere, indigested Liquor, not worth the name of Cider.   

5.  
No Liquor is observed to be more easily affected with the savour of the Vessel it is put into, than Cider; therefore singular care is taken by discreet Cider-Masters, That the Vessel be not only tasteless, but also well prepared for the Liquor they intent to fill it with. If it be a new Cask, they prepare it by scalding it with Water, wherein a good quantity of Apple-pomice hath been boiled: if a tainted Cask, they have divers ways of cleansing it. Some boil an Ounce of Pepper in so much Water as will fill an Hogshead, which they let stand in a Vessel of that capacity two or three days, and then wash it with a convenient quantity of fresh Water scalding hot, which they say is an undoubted cure for the most dangerously infected Vessel. A Friend and Neighbour of mine herewith cured a Vessel of so extreme ill savour, as it was thought it would little less than poison any Liquor that was put into it. Others have a more easy, and perhaps no less effectual Remedy. They take two or three stones of quicklime, which in six or seven Gallons of Water they set on work in the Hogshead being close stopped, and tumbling it up and down till the commotion cease, it doth the feat. Of Vessels that have been formerly used, next to that which hath been already acquainted with Cider, a White-Wine, or Vinegar Cask is esteemed the best; Claret or Sack not so good. A Barrel newly tenanted by small Beer suits better with Cider than a strong- Beer Vessel.   

6.  
Half a peck of unground Wheat put to Cider that is harsh and eager, will renew its fermentation, and render it more mild and gentle. Sometimes it happens without the use of any such means to change with the season, and becomes of sharp and sour unexpectedly benign and pleasant. Two or three Eggs whole put into an Hogshead of Cider that is become sharp and near of kin to Vinegar, sometimes rarely lenifies and gentilizes it. One pound of broad-figs slit, is said to dulcify an Hogshead of such Cider.  
A Neighbour Divine, of my acquaintance, assured me, That coming into a Parsonage-house in Devonshire, where he found eleven Hogsheads of Cider; being unwilling to sell what he never bought, he was three years in spending that store which the former Incumbent had left him; and it greatly amused him (as well it might, if he remembered the old Proverb, He mends as sour Ale in Summer) to find the same Cider, which in Winter was almost as sharp as Vinegar, in the Summer become a potable and good-natured Liquor.   

7.  
A little quantity of Mustard will clear an Hogshead of muddy Cider. The same Virtue is ascribed to two or three rotten Apples put into it. Mustard made with Sack preserves boiled Cider, and spirits it egregiously.   

8.  
Cider is found to ferment much better in mild and moist, than in cold and dry weather. Every one's Experience hath taught him so much in the late frosty season. If it had not wrought before, it was in vain to expect its working or clearing then, unless by some of the artificial means prementioned, which also could not be made use of in a more inconvenient time.   

9  
The latter running of the Cider bottled immediately from the Wring, is by some esteemed a pure, clear, small, well relished Liquot; but so much undervalved by them who desire strong drinks more than wholesome, that they will not suffer it to incorporate with the first running.  
In Devonshire where their Wrings are so hugely great, that an Hogshead or two runs out commonly before the Apples suffer any considerable pressure, they value this before the other, much after the rate which we set upon life-honey (that which in like sort drops freely out of the Combs) above that which renders not itself without compression. In jersey they value it a Crown upon an Hogshead dearer than the other: (This I take from the Relation of one of my Neighbours, who sometimes lived in that Island, which for Apples and Cider is one of the most famous of all belonging to his Majesty's Dominions) Yet even upon this, and their choicest Ciders, they commonly bestow a pail of water to every Hogshead, being so far (it seems) of Pindar's mind, that they fear not any prejudice to their most excellent Liquors by a dash of that most excellent Element: Insomuch that it goes for a common saying amongst them, That if any Cider can be found in their Island, which can be proved to have no mixture of Water, 'tis clearly forfeited. It seems they are strongly conceited, that this addition of the most useful Element, doth greatly meliorate their Cider, both in respect of Colour, Taste, and Clarity.   

10.  
The best Cider-fruit with us in this part of Dorsetshire (lying near Bred-port) next to Pepin and Pearmain, is a Bitter-sweet, or (as we vulgarly call them) Bitter-scale, of which for the first, the Cider unboiled keeps well for one year; boiling it you may keep it two years or longer.  
About seven years since I gave myself the Experience of Bitter-scale Cider both crude and boiled. I called them both to account at twelve months' end. I than found the crude Cider seemingly as good, if not better, than the boiled. But, having stopped up the boiled, I took it to task again about ten Months after. At which time, I found it so excessively strong, that five persons would hardly venture upon an ordinary Glass full of it. My friends would hardly believe but I had heightened it with some of my Chemical Spirits. The truth is, I do not remember that I ever drunk any Liquor, on this side Spirits, so highly strong, and spirituous; but wanting pleasantness answerable to its strength, I was not very fond of my Experiment. In which I boiled away, as I remember, more than half.   

11.  
A Neighbour having a good Provent of pure-Lings (an Apple of choice account with us) making up a good part of them to Cider, expected rare Liquor, but it proved very mean and pitiful Cider, as generally we find that to be, which is made without mixture. We have few Apples with us, beside the Bitter-scale, which yield good Cider alone; next to it is a Deans-Apple, and the Peleasantine I think may be mentioned in the third place; neither of which need the Addition of other Apples to set off the Relish, as do the rest of our choicest Fruits. Pippins, Pearmains, and Gilliflours, commixed, are said to make the best Cider in the world. In jersey 'tis a general observation, as I hear, That the more of red any Apple hath in its rind, the more proper it is for this use. Paleface't-Apples they exclude as much as may be from their Cider-Vat. 'Tis with us an observation, That no sweet-Apple that hath a tough rind, is bad for Cider.   

12.  
If you boil your Cider, special care is to be had, That you put it into the furnace immediately from the Wring; otherwise, if it be ●et stand in Fats or Vessels two or three days after the pressure, the best, and most spirituous part will ascend, and vapour away when the fire is put under it; and the longer the boiling continues, the less of goodness, or virtue will be left remaining in the Cider.  
My Distillations sufficiently instruct me, That the same Liquor which (after fermentation hath passed upon it) yields a plentiful quantity of spirit, drawn off unfermented, yields nothing at all of spirit. And upon the same account it is undoubtedly certain, That Cider boiled immediately from the Wring, hath its spirits compressed, and drawn into a narrower compass, which are for the most part washed and evaporated by late unseasonable boiling.    

CONCERNING CIDER,  By Doctor SMITH. 
THE best time to grind the Apples is immediately from the Tree, so soon as they are throughly ripe: for, so they will yield the greater quantity of Liquor, the Cider will drink the better, and last longer than if the Apples were hoarded: For Cider made of hoarded Apples will always retain an unpleasing taste of the Apples, especially if they contract any rottenness.  
The Cider that is ground in a Stone-case is generally accused to taste unpleasantly of the Rinds, Stems, and Kernels of the Apples; which it will not if ground in a Case of Wood, which doth not bruise them so much.  
So soon as the Cider is made, put it into the Vessel (leaving it about the space of one Gallon empty) and presently stop it up very close: This way is observed to keep it longer, and to preserve its spirits better than the usual way of filling the Vessel quite full, and keeping it open till it hath done fermenting.  
Cider put into a new Vessel will often taste of the Wood, if it be pierced early; but the same stopped up again, and reserved till the latter end of the year, will free itself of that taste.  
If the Cider be sharp and thick it will recover itself again: But if sharp and clear, it will not.  
About March (or when the Cider gins to sparkle in the glass) before it be too fine, is the best time to bottle it.  
Cider will be much longer in clearing in a mild and moist, then in a cold and dry Winter.  
To every Hogshead of Cider, designed for two years keeping, it is requisite to add (about March, the first year) a quart of Wheat unground.  
The best Fruit (with us in Gloucestershire) for the first years Cider, are the Red-strake; the White and Red Must-apple, the sweet and sour Pepin, and the Harvey-apple.  
Pearmains alone make but a small liquor, and hardly clearing of itself; but, mixed either with sweet or sour Pippins, it becomes very brisk and clear.  
Must-apple-cider (though the first made) is always the last ripe; by reason that most of the pulp of the Apple passeth the strainer in pressing, and makes it exceeding thick.  
The Cider of the Bromsbury-Crab, and Fox-whelp, is not fit for drinking, till the second year, but then very good.  
The Cider of the Bromsbury-Crab yields a far greater proportion of spirits, in the distillation, than any of the others.  
Crabs and Pears mixed make a very pleasing Liquor, and much sooner ripe than Pears alone.   

OF CIDER.  By Capt. SYLAS TAYLOR. 
HErefordshire affords several sorts of Cider-apples, as the two sorts of Red strikes, the Gennet-moyle, the Summer-violet, or Fillet, and the Winter-fillet; with many other sorts which are used only to make Cider. Of which some use each sort simply; and others mix many sorts together. This County is very well stored with other sorts of Apples; as Pippins, Pearmains, etc. of which there is much Cider made, but not to be compared to the Cider drawn from the Cider-apples; among which the Redstrakes bear the Bell; a Fruit in itself scarce edible; yet the juice being pressed out is immediately pleasant in taste, without any thing of the restringency which it had when incorporated with the meat, or flesh of the Apple. It is many times three Months before it comes to its clearness, and six Months before it comes to a ripeness fit for drinking; yet I have tasted of it three years, old, very pleasant, though dangerously strong. The colour of it, when fine, is of a sparkling yellow, like Canary, of a good full body, and oily: The taste, like the Flavour or perfume of excellent Peaches, very grateful to the Palate and Stomach.  
Gennet-moyles make a Cider of a smaller body than the former, yet very pleasant, and will last a year. It is a good eating pleasant sharp fruit, when ripe, and the best Tart-apple (as the Red-strake also) before its ripeness. The Tree grows with certain knotty extuberancies upon the branches and boughs; below which knot we cut off boughs the thickness of a man's wrist, and place the knot in the ground, which makes the root; and this is done to raise this fruit; but very rarely by graffing.  
Of Fillets of both sorts (viz. Summer and Winter) I have made Cider of that proportionate taste and strength, that I have deceived several experienced Palates, with whom (simply) it hath passed for White-Wine; and dashing it with Red-Wine, it hath passed for Claret; and mingled with the Syrup of Rasp'yes it makes an excellent woman's wine: The fruit is not so good as the Gennet-moyle to eat: The Winter-fillet makes a lasting Cider, and the Summer-fillet an early Cider, but both very strong; and the Apples mixed together make a good Cider.  
These Apples yield a liquor more grateful to my Palate (and so esteemed of in Herefordshire by the greater Ciderists) than any made of Pippins and Pearmains, of which sorts we have very good in that Country; and those also both Summer and Winter of both sorts, and of which I have drank the Cider; but prefer the other.  
Grounds separated only with a Hedge and Ditch, by reason of the difference of Soils have given a great alteration to the Cider, notwithstanding the Trees have been graffed with equal care, the same Graffs, and lastly, the same care taken in the making of the Cider. This as to the Red-strake; I have not observed the same niceness in any other fruit; for Gennet-moyles, and Fillets thrive very well over all Herefordshire. The Red-strake delights most in fat soil: Hamlacy is a rich intermixed soil of Red-fat-clay and Sand; and Kings-capel a low hot sandy ground, both well defended from noxious Winds, and both very famous for the Red-strake-cider.  
There is a Pear in Hereford and Worcestershires, which is called Bareland-pear, which makes a very good Cider. I call it Cider (and not Perry) because it hath all the properties of Cider. I have drank of it from half a year old to two years old. It keeps itself without Roping (to which Perry is generally inclined) and from its taste: Dr. Beal, in his little Treatise called the Herefordshire-Orchard, calls it deservingly a Masculine Drink; because in razed not like the sweet luscious feminine juice of Pears. This Tree thrives very well in barren ground, and is a fruit (with the Red-strake) of which Swine will not eat; therefore fittest to be planted in Hedgerows.  
Red strakes and other Cider-apples when ripe (which you may know partly by the blackness of the Kernel's, and partly by the colour and smell of the fruit) ought to be gathered in Baskets or Bags, preserved from bruising, and laid up in heaps in the Orchard to sweat; covered every night from the dew: Or else, in a Barn-floor (or the like) with some Wheat or Rye-straw under them, being kept so long till you find, by their mellowing, they are fit for the Mill.  
They that grind, or bruise their Apples presently upon their gathering, receive so much liquor from them, that between twenty or twenty two Bushels will make a Hogshead of Cider: but this Cider will neither keep so well, nor drink with such a fragrancy as is desired and endeavoured.  
They that keep them a month or six weeks hoarded, allow about thirty bushels to the making of a Hogshead; but this hath also an inconvenience; in that the Cider becomes not fine, or fit for drinking, so conveniently as a mean betwixt these two will afford.  
Keep them then about a fortnight in a hoard, and order them to be of such a cast by this Mellowing, that about twenty five Bushels may make a Hogshead, after which mellowing proceed thus.  
1. Pick and clear your Apples from their stalks, leaves, moaziness, or any thing that tends toward rottenness or decay.  
2. Lay them before the stone in the Cider-Mill, or else beat them small with Beaters (such as Paviers use to fix their pitching) in deep troughs of Wood or Stone, till they are fit for the Press.  
3. Having laid clean wheat straw in the bottom of your Press, lay a heap of bruised Apples upon it, and so with small handfuls or wisps of straw, which by twisting takes along with it the ends of the straw laid first in the bottom, proceed with the bruised Apples, and follow the heaps with your twisted straw, till it comes to the height of two foot, or two foot and a half; and so with some straw drawn in by twisting, and turned over the top of it (so that the bruised Apples are set as it were into a deep Chees-vat of straw, from which the Country people call it their Cider-Cheese) let the board fall upon it even and flat, and so engage the force of your screw or Press so long as any Liquor will run from it. Instead of this Cheese others use bags of Haircloth.  
4. Take this Liquor thus forced by the Press, and strain it thorough a strainer of hair into a Vat, from whence strait (or that day) in pails carry it to the Cellar, tunning it up presently in such Vessels as you intent to preserve it in; for I cannot approve of a long evaporation of spirits, and then a disturbance after it settles.  
5. Let your Vessels be very tied and clean wherein you put your Cider to settle: The best form is the Stunned or Stand, which is set upon the lesser end, from the top tapering downwards; as suppose the head to be thirty inches diametre, let then the bottom be but eighteen or twenty inches in diametre; let the Tun-hole or Bunghole be on the one side outwards, towards the top. The reason of the goodness of this form of Vessel is, because Cider (as all strong Liquors) after fermentation and working, contracts a cream or skin on the top of them, which in this form of Vessel is as it sinks contracted, and fortified by that contraction, and will draw fresh to the last drop; whereas in our ordinary Vessels, when drawn out about the half or middle, this skin dilates and breaks, and without a quick draught decays and dies.  
6. Reserve a Pottle or Gallon of the Liquor to fill up the Vessel to the brim of the Bunghole, as oft as the fermentation and working lessens the Liquor, till it hath done its work.  
7. When it hath completed its work, and that the Vessel is filled up to the bunghole, stop it up close with well mixed clay, and well tempered, with a handful of Bay-salt laid upon the top of the clay, to keep it moist, and renewed as oft as need shall require; for if the clay grows dry it gives vent to the spirits of the Liquor, by which it suffers decay.  
I am against either the boiling of Cider, or the hanging of a bag of Spices in it, or the use of Ginger in drinking it; by which things people labour to correct that windiness which they fancy to be in it: I think Cider not windy; those that use to drink it are most free from windiness; perhaps the virtue of it is such, as that once ripened and mellowed, the drinking of it in such strength combats with that wind which lies insensibly latent in the body. The Cider made and sold here in London in Bottles may have that windiness with it as Bottle-beer hath, because they were never suffered to ferment: But those that have remarked the strength and vigour of its fermentation, what weighty things it will cast up from the bottom to the top, and with how many bubbles and bladders of wind it doth work, will believe that it clears itself by that operation of all such injurious qualities.  
To preserve Cider in Bottles I recommend unto you my own Experience, which is, Not to bottle it up before fermentation; for that incorporates the windy quality, which otherwise would be ejected by that operation: This violent suppression of fermentation makes it windy in drinking, (though I confess brisk to the taste, and sprightly cutting to the Palate:) But after fermentation, the Cider resting two, three, or four Months, draw it, and bottle it up, and so lay it in a Repository of cool springing water, two or three foot, or more, deep; this keeps the spirits, and the best of the spirits of it together: This makes it drink quick and lively; it comes into the glass not pale or troubled, but bright yellow, with a speedy vanishing nittiness, (as the Vintners call it) which evaporates with a sparkling and whizzing noise; And than this I never tasted either Wine or Cider that pleased better: Insomuch that a Nobleman tasting of a Bottle out of the water (himself a great Ciderist) protested the excellency of it, and made with much greater charges, at his own dwelling, a water Repository for his Cider, with good success.   

An ACCOUNT of Perry and Cider Out of Gloucestershire,  Imparted by DANIEL COLLWALL Esq 
ABout Taynton, Five Miles beyond Gloucester, is a mixed sort of land, partly Clay, a Marl, and Crash, as they call it there, on all which sorts of land, there is much Fruit growing, both for the Table and for Cider: But it is Pears it most abounds in, of which the best sort, is that they name the Squosh-Pear, which makes the best Perry in those Parts. These Trees grow to be very large, and exceeding fruitful, bearing a fair round Pear, red on the one side, and yellow on the other, when fully ripe: It oftentimes falls from the Tree, which commonly breaks it; but it is of a nature so harsh, that the Hogs will hardly eat them.  
They usually plant the stocks first, and when of competent bigness (and tall enough to prevent cattle) graft upon them: 'Tis observed, that where land is Ploughed and dressed for Corn, the Trees thrive much better than in the Pasture-grounds, so as divers Orchards are yearly ploughed and sown with Corn, which for the most part, they suffer their Swine to eat upon the ground, without cutting; and such Plantations seldom or never fail of plentiful Crops▪ especially in the Rye-land, or light Grounds.  
About Michaelmas is made the best Cider, and that of such Fruit as drops from the Trees, being perfectly mature; and if any are gathered sooner, they let them lie in the house 8 or 9 days for the better mellowing.  
The best Mills to grind in, are those of Stone, which resembles a Mill stone set edge-ways, moved round the Trough by an Horse till the Fruit be bruised small enough for the Press: This done, then put it up into a Crib made with strong studds, and Oaken or Haisel twigs about 3 foot high, and 2 ½ wide, which is placed on a Stone or Wooden Cheese-fat, a foot broader than the Crib, fitted to a round Trough for the Liquor to pass into the Cistern which is a large Vessel: When the Crib is filled with the foresaid ground Fruit, they put a Stone upon it, but first they fit a Circle of fresh straw about the Crib, to preserve the Must (which is the bruised Fruit) from straining through the Crib when they apply the Skrews, which being too in number, and of a good size, turn in a great beam, and so are wrung down upon the Crib, within which they place two wide and thick Cheese-fats, and several blocks upon the Fruit, to crush it down with the more force, by which means it is wrung so dry, as nothing can be had more out of it. A Crib will contain at once, as much ground Fruit, as will make above an Hogshead of Cider, and there may be dispatched six or seven such Vessels in one day.  
When the Pressing is finished, they take out the Fruit, and put it into a great Fat, pouring several Payls of Water to it, which being well impregned, is ground again slightly in the Mill, to make an ordinary Cider for the servants; this they usually drink all the Year about.  
When the best Liquor is tuned up, they commonly leave the Bunghole open, for nine or ten days, to ferment and purify; for though in most places they add straining to all this, yet some of the Husks and Ordure will remain in it. The Vessel after a day or two standing, is filled up, and still as the Cider wastes in working, they supply it again, till no more filth rises; and then stop it up very accurately close, leaving only a small breathing hole to give it air for a Month after, and to prevent the bursting of the Vessel.  
Note, That they sometimes put ⅔ Pears, and ⅓ of Apples.  

The usual Names of Gloucestershire Cider-Fruit.  
Redstreaks, growing chief in the Rye-Lands, sweet White-Musts, Red-Must, the Winter-Must, the Streak-Must, the gennet-moil, the Woodcock-Apple, the Bromsgrove-Crab, the Great-white-Crab, the Heming, and divers other sorts, but these are the principal.   

The Pears for Perry are,  
The Red Squash-pear esteemed the best, the john-pear, the Harpary Green-pear, the Drake-pear, the Green Squash-pear, the Mary-pear, the Lullam-pear: these are the chief.    

Another Account of CIDER from a Person of great Experience.  
CIder-Apples for strength, and a long lasting Drink, is best made of the Fox-Whelp of the Forest of Deane, but which comes not to be drunk till two or three years old.  
2. Bromsborrow-Crab the second year; In the Coast and Tract 'twixt Hereford and Ledbury.  
3. Vnder-leaf, best at two years, a very plentiful bearer hath a Rhenish-wine flavour; the very best of all Ciders of this kind, hoarded a little within doors. The longer you would keep, the longer you must hoard your Fruit.  
4. The Red-strake of Kings-Capel, and those parts, is in great variety: Some make Cider that is not of continuance, yet pleasant and good; others, that lasts long, inclining towards the Bromsborrow●●rab rather than a Red-strake.  
5. A long pale Apple, called the Coleing, about Ludlow, an extraordinary bearer.  
6. The Arier-Apple, a constant bearer, making a strong and lasting Cider; some call them Richards, some Grang-apples; and indeed they make so excellent a Drink, that they are worthy to be recovered into use.  
7. The Olive, well known about Ludlow, may, I conceive be accounted of the Winter-Cider Apples, of which 'tis the constant report, that an Hogshead of the Fruit will yield an Hogshead of Cider.  

The Summer-Ciders are,  
1. The gennet-moil of one year: The best Baking-Apple that grows, and keeps long baked; but not so unbaked without growing mealy: it dries well in the Oven, and with little trouble. The gennet-moil Cider, when the Fruit is well hoarded and mellow, will body, and keep better.  
2. The Summer Red-strake, of a wonderful fragrant and Aromatic quality.  
3. Sir Ed. Harley's little Apple, esteemed to make one of the richest Ciders in the World. Also, his,  
4. Great Summer-Apple, resembling the Red-strake, juicy and Aromatic.  
5. The White-Must, streaked Must, etc. great bearers, and their Cider early ripe.  
6. Pearmains, have made excellent Cider, as good, if not superior to any other in some years; and though it be true, that every sort of Fruit makes better Drink some years than others; yet, for the most part, the goodness and perfection of Cider results from the lucky, or intelligent Gathering, or Hoarding of the Fruit, or from both; and this knowledge must be from Experience.  
7. Generally, the Cider longest in fining, is strongest and best lasting, especially if the fruit have been well hoarded for some time.  
8. Cider made of Green, and immature Fruit, will not fine kindly, and when it does, it abides not long good, but suddenly becomes eager.  
9 Cider kept in very cool Cellars, if made of ripe Fruit, renders it long in fining, and sometimes Cider by exposing abroad in the Sun, and kept Warm, hath sooner matured, and continued long good: But the best Drink is that which fines of itself, preserved in an indifferent temper.  
10. All Cider, suffers Fermentation when Trees are blossoming, though it be never so old; and Cider of very ripe Fruit, if Bottled in that season, will acquire a fragrancy of the Blossom.  
11. New Cider, and all diluted and watered Ciders, are great Enemies to the Teeth, and cause violent pains in them, and Rheums in the Head.  
12. One Rotten-Apple, of the same kind with the sound, corrupts a whole Vessel, and makes it Musty. But,   

To Conclude this Treatise,  
We will gratify the Cider-Master with the Construction of a new kind of Press brought into the R. Society, by their Curator, the ingenious Mr. Hooke, and, if perfectly understood by him that shall imitate it, recommended not only for its extraordinary Dispatch, but for many other virtues of it, chief, the accurately grinding of the Pulp, and keeping the Husks from descending with the Liquor.  

Explication of the Figures.  
a The Axis, by which four Cylinders are to be moved, either by the force of Men, Horses, Wind, or Water, etc.  
b. c. d Three of the 4 (visible) Cylinders, so placed, that those which are first to bruise the Apples, may stand at about half an Inch, or less distance from each other: Those that are to press out the juice may join as close, as they can well be made to move.  
f. f The Trough, in which to receive the Liquor, running through certain holes made in the lower Plate there marked.  
e. e The Hopper, made tapering towards the bottom, in which you fling the Apples, and supply them as they sink towards the Cylinders. Note, That such another Hopper is supposed to be also made, and fitted to this forepart of the Press, but here omitted, that the prospect and description of the Cylinders may the better be laid open and demonstrated.  
g. g. g The Spindle's of each Cylinder.  
h. h. i. i. k. k The Frame, consisting of two Plates, and two Pilasters, which hold the Cylinders together. Note, That the Cylinders must be made of excellent Oaken Timber, or other hard Wood; the dimensions about 3 foot long, one foot and half diameter: The rest of the Frame for thickness, etc. of size and strength proportionable.  
L L The Legs which support the Frame.  
FIG. II. Represents the Ichnography of the First.    
FINIS.