Mundus Muliebris: OR, THE LADY'S Dressing-Room UNLOCKED, And her TOILETTE SPREAD. In Burlesque. Together With the FOP-DICTIONARY, Compiled for the Use of the FAIR SEX. The Second Edition. To which is added a most rare and incomparable Receipt, to make Pig, or Puppidog-Water for the Face. — Tanquam famae discrimen agatur, Aut Animae: tanta est quaerendi cura decoris. Juvenal. Sat. 6. Such care for a becoming Dress they take, As if their Life and Honour were at Stake. LONDON: Printed for R. Bentley, in Russel-Street in Covent-Garden. 1690. PREFACE. THis Paper was not to come abroad without a Preface, as well as Comment, for Instruction of our young Master, who newly launched from the University (where he has lost a year or two) is not yet Travelled, or if happily he has made le petit Tour (with the formal thing his Governor * Whom the French call Maître des ours, a Bearward. ) having never yet Read Tully's Offices through, since he came from School, sets up for a Bean, and Equipped for the Town at his Return, comes to seek Adventures in an Ocean full of Rocks, and Shelves, and wants a Skilful Pilot to Steer him, as much as any Vessel that goes to the Indies; and oftentimes returns home Leaky, and as poorly Freighted, as those who have been near Shipwrecked, or lost their Voyage. It is for direction of such as are setting out towards this Great and Famous Emporium (whether the design be for Miss or Marriage) what Cargo he must provide; not as Merchants do for America, Glass-Beads, and Baubles, in exchange for Gold and Pearl; but Gold and Pearl, and all that's precious, for that which is of less value than Knives and children's Rattles. You see, Squires, what you are to prepare for as Adventurers, or by way of Barter, if you think to Traffic here, and to carry the Fair One, especially if she be at her own disposal (or being come some considerable time out of the Country) has been initiated into the Conversation of the Town▪ The Refined Lady expects her Servants and humble Admirers should Court her in the Forms and Decencies of making Love in Fashion: In order to this, you must often Treat her at the Play, the Park, and the Music; present her at the Raffle, follow her to Tunbridge at the season of drinking of Waters, though you ●ave no need of them yourself: You must improve ●●l occasions of celebrating her Shape, and how ●●ll the Mode becomes her, though it be never so Fantastical and Ridiculous; that she Sings like an Angel, Dances like a Goddess; and that you are Charmed with her Wit and Beauty: Above all, you must be sure to find some Fault or Imperfection in all other Ladies of the Town, and to laugh at the Fops like yourself: With this, a little Practice will qualify you for the Conversation and Mystery of the Ruelle; and if the whole Morning be spent between the Glass and the Comb, that your Perruque sit well, and Cravat-Strings be adjusted as things of importance; with these and the like accomplishments you'll emerge a consummate Beau, Angl●ce, a Co— But the Dancing-Master will still be necessary to preserve your good Mien, and fit you for the Winter-Ball. Thus you see, young Sparks, how the Style and Method of Wooing is quite changed, as well as the Language, since the days of our Forefathers (of unhappy Memory, simple and plain Men as they were) who Courted and chose their Wives for their Modesty, Frugality, keeping at Home, Good-Housewifery, and other Oeconomical Virtues then in Reputation: and when the young Damsels were taught all these in the Country, and their Parents Houses, the Portion they brought was more in Virtue than Money, and she was a richer Match than one who could have brought a Million, and nothing else to commend her. The Presents which were made when all was concluded, were a Ring, a Necklace of Pearl, and perhaps another fair jewel, the Bona Paraphernalia of her prudent Mother, whose Nuptial Kirtle, Gown and Petticoat lasted as many Anniverssaries as the happy Couple lived together, and were at last bequeathed with a Purse of old Gold, Rose-Nobles, Spur-Royals, and Spankers, as an House-Loom to her Granddaughter▪ They had Cupboards of Ancient, useful Plate, whole Chests of Damask for the Table, and store of fine Holland Sheets (white as the driven Snow) and fragrant of Rose and Lavender for the Bed; and the sturdy Oaken Bedstead, and Furniture of the House, lasted a whole Century; the Shovel-Board, and other long Tables both in Hall and Parlour were as fixed as the Freehold; nothing was movable save joynt-stools, Black jacks, Silver Tankards, and Bowls: And though many things fell out between the Cup and the Lip, when Nappy Ale, March Beer, Metheglin, Malmsey, and Old Sherry got the Ascendant amongst the Blue-coats, and Badges, they sung Old Simon, and Chevi Chase, and danced brave Arthur, and were able to draw a Bow that made the proud Monsieur tremble at the Whizze of the Grey-Goose-Feather: 'Twas then Ancient Hospitality was kept up in Town and Country, by which the Tenants were enabled to pay their Landlords at punctual day: the Poor were relieved bountifully, and Charity was as warm as the Kitchen, where the Fire was perpetual. In those happy days, Sure-Foot, the Grave and steady Mare, carried the Good Knight and his Courteous Lady behind him to Church, and to visit the Neighbourhood, without so many Hell-Carts, Rattling Coaches, and a crew of Dam Lackeys, which a Grave Livery Servant or two supplied, who rid before and made way for his Worship. Things of Use were Natural, Plain, and Wholesome, nothing was superfluous, nothing necessary wanting; and Men of Estate studied the Public Good, and gave Example of true Piety, Loyalty, justice, Sobriety, Charity, and the good Neighbourhood composed most differences: Perjury, Suborning Witnesses, Alimony, Avowed Adulteries, and Misses (publicly owned) were Prodigies in those days, and Laws were Reason, not Craft, when men's Titles were secure, and they served their Generation with Honour; left their Patrimonial Estates improved to an Hopeful Heir, who passing from the Free School to the College, and thence to the Inns of Court, acquainting himself with a competent Tincture of the Laws of his Country, followed the Example of his worthy Ancestors; and if he Travelled abroad, it was not to count Steeples, and bring home Feather and Ribbon, and the Sins of other Nations; but to gain such Experience as rendered him useful to his Prince and Country upon occasion, and confirmed him in the Love of both of 'em above any other. The Virgins and Young Ladies of that Golden Age, Prov. 31.13.19. quaesierunt lanam & linum; put their hands to the Spindle, nor disdained they the Needle; were obsequious, and helpful to their Parents; instructed in the Managery of the Family, and gave Presages of making excellent Wives; nor then did they Read so many Romances, see so many Plays, and smutty Farces; set up for Visits, and have their days of Audience, and Idle pass-time. Honest Gleek, Ruff and Honours, diverted the Ladies at Christmas, and they knew not so much as the Names of Ombre, Comet, and Basset. Their Retirements were Devout and Religious Books, and their Recreations in the Distillatory, the knowledge of Plants and their Virtues, for the comfort of their poor Neighbours, and use of the Family, which wholesome plain Diet, and Kitching Physic preserved in perfect Health: In those days, the Scurvy, Spleen, etc. were scarce heard of, till Foreign Drinks and Mixtures were wantonly introduced. Nor were the young Gentlewomen so universally afflicted with Hysterical Fits; nor, though extremely modest, at all Melancholy, or less Gay, and in good Humour; they could touch the Lute, and Virginal, sing like to the Damask Rose— and their Breath was as sweet as their Voices: They danced the Canaries, Spanish Pavan, and Selengers Round upon Sippets, with as much Grace and Loveliness, as any Monsieur, or Italian of them all, can Teach with his Fop-call, and Apish Postures. To show you then, how the World is altered among us, since Foreign Manners, the Luxury (more than Asiatick, which was the final Ruin of the Greatest, Wisest, and most Noble Monarchy upon Earth) has universally obtained among us, corrupting ancient simplicity; and in what extravagant Form the young Gallant we described, is to Court the Sex, and make his Addresses, (whether his Expedition be for Marriage or Mistress) it has been thought good by some Charitable hands, that have contributed to this Catalogue, to present him with an Enumeration of particulars, and Computation of the Charges of the Adventurer, as follows. A VOYAGE to MARRYLAND; OR, THE LADY'S DRESSING-ROOM. NEgotii sibi volet qui vim parare, Navim, & Mulierem, haec duo comparato. Nam nullae magis Res duae plus Negotii Habent, forte si occeperis exornare. Neque unquam satis hae duae Res ornantur, Neque eis ulla ornandi satis satietas est. Plaut. Poenelus. Act. 1. Scen. 2. WHoever has a mind to abundance of Trouble, Let him furnish himself with a Ship and a Woman, For no two things will find you more Employment, If once you begin to Rig them out with all their Streamers. Nor are they ever sufficiently adorned, Or satisfied, that you have done enough to set them forth. HE that will needs to Marryland Adventure, first must understand For's Bark, what Tackle to prepare, Against Wind and Wether, wear and tore: Of Point d'Espagne, a Rich Cornet, Two Nightrails, and a Scarf beset With a great Lace, a Colleret. One black Gown of Rich Silk, which odd is Without one Coloured, Embroidered Bodice: Four Petticoats for Page to hold up, Four short ones nearer to the Crup: Three Manteaus, nor can Madam less Provision have for due undress; Nor demi Sultan, Spagnolet, Nor Fringe to sweep the Mall forget, Of under Bodice three neat pair Embroidered, and of Shoes as fair: Short under Petticoats pure fine, Some of japan Stuff, some of Chine, With Knee-high Galoon bottomed, Another quilted White and Red; With a broad Flanders Lace below: Four pair of Bas de soy shot through With Silver, Diamond Buckles too, For Garters, and as Rich for Shoo. Twice twelve day Smocks of Holland fine, With Cambric Sleeves, rich Point to join, (For she despises Colbertine.) Twelve more for night, all Flanders laced, Or else she'll think herself disgraced: The same her Nightgown must adorn, With Two Point Waistcoats for the Morn: Of Pocket Mouchoirs Nose to drain, A dozen laced, a dozen plain: Three Night-Gowns of rich Indian Stuff, Four Cushion clothes are scarce enough, Of Point, and Flanders, not forget Slippers embroidered on Velvet: A Manteau Girdle, Ruby Buckle, And Brillant Diamond Rings for Knuckle: Fans painted, and perfumed three; Three Muffs of Sable, Ermine, Grey; Nor reckon it among the Baubles, A Palatine also of Sables. A Saphire Bodkin for the Hair, Or sparkling Facet Diamond there: Then Turquois, Ruby, Emerald Rings For Fingers, and such petty things; As Diamond Pendants for the Ears, Musts needs be had, or two Pearl Pears, Pearl Necklace, large and Oriental, And Diamond, and of Amber pale; For Oranges bears every Bush, Nor values she cheap things a rush. Then Bracelets for her Wrists bespeak, (Unless her Heartstrings you will break) With Diamond Croche for Breast and Bum, Till to hang more on there's no room. Besides these Jewels you must get Cuff Buckles, and an handsome Set Of Tags for Palatine, a curious Hasp The Manteau 'bout her Neck to clasp: Nor may she want a Ruby Locket, Nor the fine sweet quilted Pocket; To play at Ombre, or Basset, She a rich Pulvil Purse must get, With Guineas filled, on Cards to lay, With which she fancies most to play: Nor is she troubled at ill fortune, For should the bank be so importune, To rob her of her glittering Store, The amorous Fop will furnish more. Pensive and mute, behind her shoulder He stands, till by her loss grown bolder, Into her lap Rouleau conveys, The softest thing a Lover says: She grasps it in her greedy hands, Then best his Passion understands; When tedious languishing has failed, Rouleau has constantly prevailed. But to go on where we left off, Though you may think what's said enough; This is not half that does belong To the fantastic Female Throng: In Pin-up Ruffles now she flaunts, About her Sleeves are Engageants: Of Ribbon, various Echelles, Gloves trimmed, and laced as fine as Nell's. Twelve dozen Martial, whole, and half, Of jonquil, Tuberose, (done't laugh) Frangipan, Orange, Violett, Narcissus, jassemin, Ambrett: And some of Chicken skin for night, To keep her Hands, plump, soft, and white, Mouches for bushes, to be sure, From Paris the tré-fine procure, And Spanish Paper, Lip, and Cheek, With spital sweetly to belick: Nor therefore spare in the next place, The Pocket Sprunking Looking-Glass; Calembuc Combs in Pulvil Case, To set, and trim the Hair and Face: And that the Cheeks may both agree, Plumpers to fill the Cavity. The Settée, Cupée, place aright, F●elange, Fontange, Favourite; Monté la haut, and Palisade, Sorti, Flandan, (great helps to Trade) Burgoine, jardiné, Cornett, Frilal next upper Pinner set, Round which it does our Ladies please To spread the Hood called Rayonnés: Behind the Noddle every Baggage Wears bundle Choux in English, Cabbage: Nor Cruches she, nor Confidents, Nor Passagers, nor Bergers wants, And when this Grace Nature denies, An Artificial Tour supplies; All which with Meurtriers unite, And Creve-Coeurs silly Fops to smite, Or take in Toil at Park or Play, Nor Holy Church is safe, they say, Where decent Veil was wont to hide The Modest Sex Religious Pride: Lest these yet prove too great a Load, 'Tis all comprised in the Commode; Pins tipped with Diamond Point, and head, By which the Curls are fastened, In radiant Firmament set out, And over all the Hood sur-tout: Thus Face that E'rst near head was placed Imagine now about the Wast, For Tour on Tour, and Tyre on Tire, Like Steeple Bow, or Grantham Spire, Or Septizonium once at Rome, (But does not half so well become Fair Ladies Head) you here behold Beauty by Tyrant Mode controlled. The graceful Oval, and the Round, This Horse Tire does quite confound; And Ears like satire, Large and Raw, And bony Face, and hollow Jaw; This monstrous Dress does now reveal Which well placed Curls did once conceal. Besides all these, 'tis always meant You furnish her Appartiment, With Moreclack Tapestry, Damask Bed, Or Velvet richly embroidered: Branches, Brasero, Cassolets, A Cofre-fort, and Cabinets, Vasas of Silver, Porcelan, store To set, and range about the Floor: The Chimney Furniture of Plate, (For Iron's now quite out of date:) Tea-Table, Skreens, Trunks, and Stand, Large Looking-Glass richly Iapaned, And hanging Shelf, to which belongs Romances, Plays, and Amorous Songs; Repeating Clocks, the hour to snow When to the Play 'tis time to go, In Pompous Coach, or else Sedaned With Equipage along the Strand, And with her new Beau Fopling manned. A new Scene to us next presents, The Dressing-Room, and Implements, Of Toilet Plate Gilt, and Embossed, And several other things of Cost: The Table Miroir, one Glue Pot, One for Pomatum, and what not? Of Washeses, Unguents, and Cosmeticks, A pair of Silver Candlesticks; Snuffers, and Snuff-dish, Boxes more, For Powders, Patches, Waters store, In silver Flasks, or Bottles, Cups Covered, or open to wash Chaps; Nor may Hungarian Queen's be wanting▪ Nor store of Spirits against fainting: Of other waters rich, and sweet, To sprinkle Handkerchief is meet; D'Ange, Orange, Mill-Fleur, Myrtle, Whole Quarts the Chamber to bespertle: Of Essence rare, & le meillure From Rome, from Florence, Montpellier, In Filgran Casset to repel, When Scent of Gousset does rebel, Though powdered Allom be as good, Well strewed on, and well understood; For Vapours that offend the Lass, Of Sal-Armoniack a Glass: Nor Brush for Gown, nor Oval Salver, Nor Pincushion, nor Box of Silver, Baskets of Fil'gran, long and round, Or if japonian to be found, And the whole Town so many yield, Calembuc Combs by dozen filled You must present, and a world more, She's a poor Miss can count her store. The Working Apron too from France, With all its trim Apurtenance; Loo Masks, and whole, as Wind does blow, And Miss abroad's disposed to go: Hoods by whole dozen, White and Black, And store of Coiffs she must not lack, Nor Velvet Scarves about her Back, To keep her warm; all these at least In Ambered Skins, or quilted Chest Richly perfumed, she Lays, and rare Powders for Garments, some for Hair Of Cyprus, and of Corduba, And the Rich Polvil of Goa, Nor here omit the Bob of Gold Which a Pomander Ball does hold, This to her side she does attach With Gold Crotchet, or French Pennache, More useful far than Ferula, For any saucy Coxcomb's Jaw▪ A graceful Swing to this belongs, Which he returns in Cringe, and Songs, And languishing to kiss the hand, That can Perfumed blows command. All these, and more in order set, A large rich Cloth of Gold Toilet Does cover, and to put up Rags, Two high Embroidered Sweet Bags, Or a large Perfumed Spanish Skin, To wrap up all these Trinkets in. But I had almost quite forgot, A Tea and Chocolate Pot, With Molionet, and Caudle Cup, Restoring Breakfast to sup up: Porcelan Saucers, Spoons of Gold, Dishes that refined Sugars hold; Pastillios' de Bocca we In Box of beaten Gold do see, Inchas'd with Diamonds, and Tweeze As Rich and Costly as all these, To which a bunch of Onyxes, And many a Golden Seal there dangles, Mysterious Ciphers, and new fangles. Gold is her Toothpick, Gold her Watch is, And Gold is every thing she touches: But tired with numbers I give o'er, Arithmetic can add no more, Thus Rigged the Vessel, and Equipped, She is for all Adventures Shipped, And Portion ere the year goes round, Does with her Vanity confound. THE Fop-Dictionary; OR, AN Alphabetical Catalogue OF THE Hard and Foreign Names, and Terms of the Art Cosmetick, etc. Together With their Interpretations, for Instruction of the Unlearned. LONDON: Printed for R. Bentley, in Russel-Street in Covent-Garden. 1690. THE Fop-Dictionary. OR; An Alphabetical Catalogue of the hard and foreign Names, and Terms of the Art COSMETICK, etc. together with their Interpretations, for Instruction of the Unlearned. Attach. ANy thing which fastens to another, etc. Bas de soye shot through. Silk-stockings with Gold, or Silver thread wove into the Clock. Berger. A pla 〈…〉 Lock (a lafoy Shepherdess) turned up with a ●uff. Bourgoigne. The first part of the Dress for the Head next the Hair. Branches. Hanging Candlesticks, like those used 〈◊〉 Church's. Brasiere. A large Vessel, or moving-Hearth of 〈◊〉 for Coals, transportable into any Room 〈◊〉 used in Spain. Calumbuc. A certain precious Wood, of an agreeable Scent, brought from the Indies. Campaine. A kind of narrow picked Lace. Casset. A Dressing Box. Cassolet. Perfuming Pot or Censer. Choux. The great round Boss or Bundle, resembling a Cabbage, from whence the French give it that name. Cofre-fort. A strong Box of some precious or hard wood, etc. bound with gilded Ribs. Colbertine. A Lace resembling Network, of the Fabric of Monsieur Colbert, Superintendent of the French Kings Manufactures. Collaret. A sort of Gorget. Commode. A Frame of Wire, covered with Silk, on which the whole Head-Attire is adjusted at once upon a Bust, or property of Wood carved to the Breasts, like that which Perruque-makers' set upon their Stalls. Confidants. Smaller Curls near the Ears. Cornet. The upper Pinner, dangling about the Cheeks, like Hounds Ears. Cosmeticks. Here used for any Effeminate Ornament, also artificial Complexions and Perfumes. Creve-coeur. Heart-breakers, the two small curled Locks at the Nape of the Neck. Crotchet. The Hook to which are chained the Lady's Watch, Seals, and other Intaglias, etc. Cruches. Certain smaller Curls, placed on the Forehead. Cuppée. A kind of Pinner. Echelles. A Pectoral, or Stomacher laced with Ribbon, like the rounds of a Ladder. Engageants. Deep double Ruffles, hanging down to the Wrists. Favourites. Locks dangling on the Temples. Ferula. An Instrument of Wood used for Correction of lighter faults, more sensibly known ot Schoolboys than to Ladies. Fil-grained. Dressing-Boxes, Baskets, or whatever else is made of Silver Wire-work. Flandan. A kind of Pinner joining with the Bonnet. Firmament. Diamonds, or other precious Stones heading the Pins which they stick in the Tour, and Hair, like Stars. Frelan. Bonnet and Pinner together. Font-Ange. The Top-Knot, so called from Mademoiselle de Fontange, one of the French King's Mistresses, who first wore it. Gris. The Grey Fur of Squirrels bellies. japonian. Any thing Varnished with Laccar, or China Polishing, or that is odd or fantastical. jardinée. That single Pinner next the Bourgogne. Loo Mask. An half Mask. Martial. The Name of a famous French Perfumer, emulateing the Frangipani of Rome. Miroir. In general, any Looking-Glass; but here, for the Table, Toilet, or Pocket Sprunking-Glass. Molionet. The Instrument used to mingle Chocolate with the Water. Monte la haut. Certain degrees of Wire to raise the Dress. Mouchoir. It were Rude, Vulgar, and Uncourtly, to call it Handkerchief. Mouches. Flies, or, Black Patches, by the Vulgar. Meurtrieres. Murderers; a certain Knot in the Hair, which ties and unites the Curls. Palatine. Formerly called Sables, or Tippet, because made of the Tails of that Animal. Palisade. A Wire sustaining the Hair next to the Duchess, or first Knot. Passagere. A Curled Lock next the Temples. Pastillo di Bocca. Perfumed Lozenges to improve the Breath. Pennache. Any Bunch or Tassel of small Ribbon. Plumpers. Certain very thin, round, and light Balls, to plump out, and fill up the Cavities of the Cheeks, much used by old Court-Countises. Polvil. The Portugal term for the most exquisite Powders and Perfumes. Rags. A Compendious Name generally used for all sorts of Point, Lace, etc. whence the Women who bring them to Lady's Chambers are called Ragg-Women; but whilst in their Shops, Exchange-Women. Rare, le meilleures. Best, and most Excellent; but in Language de beau, rare & le meilleure, happily rhyming with Mont pellier. Rayonné. Upper Hood, pinned in Circle, like the Sunbeams. Rouleau. Is Forty Nine Guineas, made up in a Paper Roll, which Monsieur F— Sir I— and Father B— lend to losing Gamesters, that are good Men, and have Fifty in Return. Ruffles. By our Forefathers called Cuffs. Settée. The double Pinner. Sorti. A little Knot of small Ribbon, peeping out between the Pinner and Bonnet. Septizonium. A very high Tower in Rome, built by the Emperor Severus, of Seven Ranks of Pillars, set one upon the other, and diminishing to the Top, like the Ladies new Dress for their Heads, which was the Mode among the Roman Dames, and is exactly described by juvenal in his 6 th' satire. Tot premit ordinibus, tot adhuc Compagibus altum Aedificat caput; Andromachen a front videbis Post minor est— Such Rows of Curls pressed on each other lie, She builds her Head so many Stories high, That look on her before, and you would swear Hector's tall Wife Andromache she were, Behind a Pigmy— Spanish Paper. A beautiful red Colour, which the Ladies, etc. in Spain paint their Faces withal. Spagnolet. A kind of narrow-sleeved Gown, a la Spagnole. Sprunking. A Dutch term for Pruning, Tiffing, Trimming, and setting out, by the Glass or Pocket Miroir. Sultan. A Gown trimmed with Buttons and Loops. Surtout. A Night Hood covering the entire Dress. Toilet. Corruptly called the Twilight, but originally signifying a little Cloth. Tour. An artificial Dress of Hair on the Forehead, etc. Tré fine. Language de Beau. Extremely fine, and delicate, cum multis aliis. For besides these, there are a world more, as Assasin, or Venez à moy, A certain Breast-knot, as much as to say, Come to me, Sir, etc. Duchess. A Knot next the Hair, immediately above the Tour, etc. with innumerable others now obsolete, and for the present out of use; but we confine ourselves to those in Vogue. To conclude, Those who have the curiosity, by comparing these Terms with the Ancients, thereby to inform themselves, how this Elegant Science is improved, especially since we have submitted to, and still continue under the Empire of the French, (for want of some Royal or Illustrious Lady's Invention and Courage, to give the Law of the Mode to her own Country, and to vindicate it from Foreign Tyranny) may for Divine History consult Isaiah 3 d. ch. ver. 16, etc. and for Profane, read Plautus his Poenulus, Act. 1. Scen. 2. and his Aulularia, Act. 3. Scen. 5. To Make Pig, or Puppidog, Water for the Face. TAke a Fat Pig, or a Fat Puppidog, of nine days old, and kill it, order it as to Roast; save the Blood, and fling away nothing but the Guts; then take the Blood, and Pig, or the Puppidog, and break the Legs and Head, with all the Liver and the rest of the Inwards, of either of them, put all into the Still if it will hold it, to that, take two Quarts of old Canary, a pound of unwashed Butter not salted; a Quart of Snails-Shells, and also two Lemons, only the outside pared away; Still all these together in a Rose Water Still, either at once or twice; Let it drop slowly into a Glass-Bottle, in which let there be a lump of Loaf-Sugar, and a little Leaf-gold. FINIS.