The expert Gardener: OR, A Treatise containing certain necessary, secret, and ordinary knowledge, in Grafting and Gardening; with divers proper new Plots for the Garden. Also sundry expert directions to know the time and season when to sow and replant all manner of Seeds. With divers remedies to destroy Snails, Cankerworms, Moths, Garden-Fleas, Earthworms, Moles, and other Vermin. Faithfully collected out of sundry Dutch and French Authors. LONDON, Printed by William Hunt. 1654. Certain common Instructions how the Stump must be chosen whereupon you will graft or plant. EVery diligent Housholder who will plant, should use thereto a convenient place, to the end, that the wild beast chaw not, nor pair the plants; or if they be young, wholly eat in pieces; which to avoid, is needful to be in a town or closed Orchard, where there is not too much shadow, but a sweet ground well muckt, tilled and turned. Every Plant will have four things. First moistness, so that the seeds or stump be moist or green. Secondly, a convenient place, which hath such earth as will lightly be rubbed to powder, and that Sun may come to it; for where there is filthy lome, a lean ground, or sandy, dry, burnt, or salt ground, there is nothing good to be planted, to have any continuance; nevertheless where the ground is lean, there you must give more dung; in a fat ground not so much. Take heed the ground be not too moist nor too dry; and muck the trees with hog's dung. Thirdly, a mediate water or nourishing moistness, therefore be those Orchards best which are situated between two waters; for those that are placed by a water side, remain still young and fruitful, and have commonly the bark smother and thinner than the others. And those trees are more fruitful than others which are planted in a valley, or in the lower part of a deep hill; for from those hills may come to them nourishment and moistness, and the ground which is so situated is very fruitful. But he that cannot get for his trees such a ground, must with all diligence seek to bring to his trees a little spring or pond, of which the trees may sometimes find some reviving, and if you may not have any of those, and have a garden who by itself is naught, the trees will grow with thick roots, which hindereth the growing of them, and drieth them at length. Fourthly, the air is required, which must be agreeable to them, and of complexion to bear; for there be some trees that do prosper in all airs, to wit, apple, and pear, cherry and plum-trees. Some will have a cold air, to wit, chestnut-trees; and some a very warm air, as the palm and pepper trees: therefore they be rare with us. That plant which hath these four things shall prosper: and if they want one or more of these four things, they will decay and their prospering perish. At what time trees ought to be planted and set. ALL kind of trees may be planted, transported, and cut in March, but it is better to turn them in October, for then the frost hurteth them not so much as at other times; for learned men say, that in dry Towns and warm Countries they plant in October or November, and that in moist Towns and cold valleys, they plant in February or March: in none other time may you plant or graft. When you will plant or set again wild stumps, if there be any thing broken at the root, cut it off. Every plant must be set two soot one from another, or at the least one foot, especially when they should bear strong fruits: likewise when thou wilt set strong seeds, as nuts, almonds and peaches. When a man will plant two stumps, so must they be of two year old, except the vine. These things you must understand of those plants or stumps which are planted with roots. How the stumps and plants must be prepared and dressed, which you will plant. THe plant or sprout you must cut round about, so that you leave the very end of it, and put it then into a hole, but if the stump be great, cut it clean off, and then put only the undermost part into a hole, long or short as you will; but if you find two stumps grown together, you may cut the lesser away. And above all things, you must take heed that the sprout grow upright, and if it will not, you must constrain it, and tie it to a stick. Here follow certain instructions how the trees must be kept, and how you must labour them. SOme trees will have a far ground, as Fig trees and Mulberry trees, and some lean ground, but all trees be in that point equal, that they will have in the top dry ground, and in the bottom moist earth. 2. In Harvest you must uncover the roots of the trees so deep, that they may partly be seen, and lay dung upon them, which dung must be dissolved of rain in the ground, that it may come to the roots, which mucking giveth good increase to the roots. 3. If the ground wherein the trees stand be too sandy, then mix among it fair and new lome; and if it be too lomy, then mix amongst it sand in place of muck, the which you must not only do hard by the tree, but also four or five foot off from it round about the tree, according as the tree is in bigness, or that the roots are large and great. Such diligence, giveth to the trees great help, for their nourishment and strength is thereby renewed. Hereafter you shall understand, whereby to know the fruitful soil. 4. In the fat ground, the stumps whereupon you will graft, must be left long, but in lean ground short. 5. The plants of trees from their youth, till three years must not be cut nor shred, but they may be transported, and if they be too weak you may prick sticks next unto them. 6. Diligent regard must be taken, that no sprouts spring out of the stump, which might take the nourishment from the tree sprouts, and those boughs which spring from the root of the tree at the first planting. 7. When thou perceivest the young trees to wax weak, then uncover the roots and put other fresh ground to them. 8. If the ground be neither too soft nor too hard, then may you choose all kind of stumps in February for to plant, when the green juice is dispersed in the bark; but when the ground is too hard, than the sweat holes or pores of the root do remain closed and stopped, so that they cannot draw to them their nourishment, such hardness of the ground or earth hindereth the air and moistness which cometh from beneath upward, for it cannot be pierced of the soft sprouts, with the small heat which is beneath, therefore you must come to help them with a spade, for with a plough you will never come to an end, because of the root. 9 There is great diligence to be taken for preserving of the trees, when they begin to grow great, to scrape from the bark all rudeness which is done, when you take from them all superfluity and sprouts which come out of the tree. You may cut them in February. 10. It is good for the trees to muck them often, and moderatively to water their roots. Also to cleave the roots, and lay stones into them, to the end they may revive again of the dryness which they have suffered, or of the barrenness of the ground, or when the young planted trees for the great heat will perish. Also when immoderate heat is, than you must help them with turning of the ground, and with watering, but the water wherewith you should water them, must not be altogether fresh nor cold, or newly drawn out of the spring, but out of a ditch, pond, or well, or any other foul ditch water, or with spring water, which hath stood long in the Sun, or put a little dung in the water, and stir it once or twice well about, and the water will be fat wherewith water your trees. You may also keep them with shadows and straw from the heat: or else put (in great heat) fat green herbs at the stump, tempered with loam: some anoint the stump (toward the South or Midday) with chalk, some with oil, or with any other ointment that cooleth. 11. When you would transpose a plant, or have wild stumps digged out to plant again, then mark the part which standoth towards the South of Midday, and put it so again when you graft it. How to keep plants, stumps, or trees, from the wild beasts, that they hurt them not. WHere the path of the beast is free and remediless, there must be put poles, and with thorns the same young trees must be enclosed. That the Deeres spoil them not. TAke the piss of a Decree and anoint the Tree therewith. That the Hares do not hurt them. Spit in thy hand, and anoint the sprouts therewith, and no Hare will hurt them. Here follow some instructions of graffing. depiction of the cutting of a tree for grafting FIrst, you must know that imping, graffing, and setting, is all one thing. The imping sprouts must be young and new, with great bodies and many eyes: for where many and great buds be, that is a token, that is of a strong fruit. 2. The imping sprouts must be broken off at the Sun rising, although that those of the other side broken off grow likewise: yet those of the other side are most natural and temperate of heat: Some country clowns believe, that if you in cutting the sprouts turn them upside down, that they will never grow right, but be crooked. 3. All graffing and imping is done by putting one into another by a fast binding, that the little sprout may spread his boughs to the stump or tree, wherein it is graffed, that so it may become one tree. 4. Over-young imps (which are so weak that they will break before they be put into the earth, or into the stump) are naught, and therefore they may not be imped or set. 5. When you imp upon a house or fruit tree, the fruit will be far better: But if you cut of a Garden tree a branch, and imp it into one of his own sprouts, it will bring forth fruit of another taste, form, and big esse; for imping maketh all the diversities in pears, apples, and other fruits. 6. It is far better to imp low in the stump, than in the top in the high branches: yet nevertheless if you will make of wild apple trees garden trees, you may imp them upon the top. 7. In great trees which have a great bark, it is not so good to imp, for they take not to them so easily the veins of the roots which grow out of the young sprouts, because of their hardness, and especially when the imping sprouts are too weak. Wherefore they which graft trees must seek small and young stumps, where in they find much liquor and little hardness, and which may endure the binding. 8. It is best imping or graffing when the liquor is in the bark, if you have a great tree upon the which you would imp and hath many branches, you may out them all off, and imp into the stumps all kind of boughs, such as you please; but if the tree be over-old, so that her boughs be rankled, and her moistness consumed, then cut the tree clean off, and let the stump ●…d a whole year; afterward take the sprouts which are sprung out of that stump, and graft them, and cast the others away. Such a stump is like to bear, and therefore nourish as many sprouts as you please: but if it be a wild stump, graft garden sprouts upon it. 9 If you graft a sprout or bough upon a Hawthorne tree, that same bough will grow great, and the stump will remain small, therefore he that will imp upon such a tree, see he cut it off by the root, then will the imped sprout and the stump grow all of one thickness: but you must have still regard that you imp kind upon kind, as apples upon apples, pears upon pears: for he that graffeth strange upon strange, as pears upon apples, and apples on pears, and such like, although it be done often for pleasure's sake, yet will it not last; for the natural nourishment is so, that it will hardly nourish a strange kind of fruit. 10. The tree which is graffed in February, in his fruits grow no worms nor maggots. 11. When the imping sprouts begin to prosper, and will not grow straight and level, than you must constrain them perforce, that they may grow orderly. Furthermore you must have a care to keep the prospering sprouts well with sticks from the wind, if they stand any thing high, and especially when they have stood a year or two, and where they are pricked in the stump, it is most needful, as shall after appear. And because there be many and divers ways to graft, and know how wild stumps and trees are to be made garden trees, we thought it good to set some of them here down. Divers fashions and ways of graffing there be. HE that will extraordinarily graft all manner of trees, he must know, that the more one tree is liker another, the better it will prosper. The first sort of graffing is, when the sprout is pricked between the bark and the wood of the stump; which must be done in May or April, when the bark may easily be loosed from the tree, and is done after this sort. First take a stump or tree, and cut him off with a sharp Saw, knife or such like instrument, where he is smoothest and clearest, and full of juice, and polish the place with the bark of the same tree which was cut off. Afterwardty the stump with a piece of bark, and then prick a hole between the bark of the tree with a prick of bone, elderwood or Iron, so that it cleave not, and then put in the place of the prick the sprout, which you must have broken off a plain and even tree, of a good kind, and one year old, which you shall know by this; every branch hath rinckled knots like the joint of a man's finger, cut it at one side under the knot, so that you touch not the heart of the tree, and at the other side you must softly lose the bark, that the sproat may join very close to the stump, then pull out the prick, and take the sprout, and turn the green bark to the bark of the stump, so that it may stand strait. The sprout may be four or five fingers, or eight at the most, high above the stump. Of this sort of imping, you may see two, three, or more, according to the bigness of the stump, or as he can bear, provided always that they stand at the least the length of a finger one from another. Afterward tie it fast (with bark) together, and put over it good muck, and tie over it a cloth, that no rain or air may come between it and hurt it. This sort of imping is commonly used in stumps, which are great and old trees, whose bark is thick and strong, as apple trees, pear trees, cherry-trees, and willow trees, on which are imped oftentimes apples, also on fig trees, and chestnut trees. Such grafting is also done in high stumps, and branches, which be great, but they must be well kept from the wind, that it do not break them. After this sort you may graft many sorts and kinds of pears upon one tree, but if you bring pears upon apples, or apples upon pears stumps, it will not last long, as afore is said. The first way of grafting prospereth best, and hath a good continuance, there be many other sorts of grafting, as followeth. Another way of grafting is, when the stumps are cloven, and the sprouts afterwards are put in, the which do as followeth. TAke a young tree which is scant of the bigness of a finger, and cut it smooth and even, and cleave it in the midst then take the sprout which you will imp, and cut it three square, and at the one side leave the bark uncut, and then turn the same bark outward at the stump; and tie it fast as I have taught, that the wind nor rain hurt him not. Otherwise. When the stump is uncovered and clean burnished at the soft place, then tie him fast, that he cleave no further than to the length of your sprout, which you must graft upon him, and then leave the prick in it, then make your sprout pointed like a prick, so that the middle be not touched, then put it into the cloven, having cleansed the hole first with the point of a knife, so that one bark may touch the other, and outward one wood another, to the end, the moisture may have the more easier his course, then pull out the prick, and that which remains open and bare between the cloven and the sprout, that bind well every where with the bark of the tree, or with hard pressing with a little sand, or with dung of an Ox, or with wax, or with a linen cloth washed in wax, that no rain, wind or worms may hurt it. This helpeth much to keep the moistness in, which cometh from the root, that it cannot break out, but nourisheth the better the new plant; but when the stumps are great, they be cleaved after two ways. The first is, that you cut or cleave the tree with a knife at one side only, even to the heart, and that you graft into it but one sprout. The other is, that you cleave it all over, and that you prick or graft on every side one sprout, or one alone, and leave the other side without. When the stump is but a little bigger, than the sprout must necessarily be cloven in two, and you must graft but one sprout into it, as is said in the beginning. This cleaving may be done in February, March, and April, than it is good to cut them before they be green, for to keep them the better under the ground, in cold or moist places. The third way of grafting. THis sort of grafting is very subtle, witty, and ready; and is done as followeth. Go to a smooth apple or pear tree, in April, when the trees get liquor, and seek a branch which hath green eyes, and see that the same be less than your little finger, and tear it from the tree, and where you see that the green sprouts will come off, there cut them off wholly, and cleanse the middle thereof, that the little red at the wood may turn about, and draw it not off, until you come unto another good pear or apple tree, and seek there another branch of the same bigness that the other was, and cut it off, and take from it, likewise the red, as far as you will put them again, and look where the branches join, that they may well sit together upon the top, and tie the same place gently and well with a little bark, behind and before, that the water may not hurt them: in the first year it bringeth forth leaves and branches, in the second flowers, which you may break off, for the sprout is yet too tender, so that it may bear no fruit, and in the third year it bringeth flowers and fruit, and by this means you may graft divers kinds of pears and apples upon one tree. I have likewise set such sprouts upon wild stumps, and they have prospered. The fourth way of grafting is, HOw buds are transported and bound upon another tree, like as a plaster is tied to a man's body: this sort of grafting, is called in Latin Emplastrum. We read of such a sort of grafting which is called in Latin Abducellum, and it is much like unto this sort, wherefore we will only speak of it, being done after this sort. When you see upon a great fruitful bough, a bud which will prosper without doubt, and wouldst feign plant it upon another tree, take a sharp knife, and lift the bark up two finger's breadth, that the bud be not hurt, then go to another tree, upon the which you will graft, and put into a convenient place, a like hole into the bark, and put the same bud with the bark into it, and tie it with dung (or with a clout that hath lain in a dunghill) over the cut, that it may be kept from the outward damage of weather, and for an especial nourishment and keeping of the inner juice: then cut off the branches round about it, that the mother may the better nourish the new son; within twenty days after take away the band, so that you see that the strange bud hath prospered, and joined himself with the tree. This may be done in March, when the bark cometh easily from the tree. Also in April, May, and june, and yet she prospereth both before and after a time, when you may conveniently find such buds. This sort of planting prospereth best in a willow tree or such like, which is pierced through, and is done after this sort. The fifth way. When you pierce a willow stick with a sharp piercer, see that between every hole, be left the space of one foot, and prick therein branches a little scraped, and put the stick into a ditch, so that the branches stand upright, one part of the stick remaining over the earth; and with in a year after take it out of the ditch, and cut the stick asunder, so find you the branches full of roots, and put every one into a hole in the ground, and 'tis fit the holes were stopped with lome, or with wax. Some do take in March a fresh Beech tree, which is of a man's thickness, and pierce him overthwart with main and great holes and small holes, till unto the lowermost bark, or quite through: then take sprouts or boughs, which be as big and small, that they may fit into the holes; and when you will put them into the Beech stump, you must scrape the uppermost bark off, until the green, and no further: then the bough must remain into the Beech, the sprouts must stand a foot, or somewhat less asunder, then keep your Beech stumps with the sprouts in a fresh ground, and scant a foot deep, you must first maim the sprouts, that they may not flourish; then the next March ensuing, dig it out with the sprouts, and cut it asunder with a saw, and every block which is cut off with its branch, you must set in a fresh ground, and so they will bring forth the fruit the same year. The sixth Way. This way teaches how to graft, that they may bring forth fruit the first year, which do as follows. Pair an old stump of what kind soever it be, the uppermost bark, till to the lower green bark, a span long or somewhat less, which do in Harvest in the wane of the Moon, and anoint it with Ox dung and earth, and tie it with bark, and after in March when trees are transposed from one place to another than cut the same branch from the tree, and put it into the ground, and it will bring fruit the same year. I have seen that one hath pricked sticks on Alballow eve, in the earth, and hath pulled them out again upon Christmas eve, and put boughs in the holes, and they have prospered and come out. The seventh. Pierce the top of a stump, which is not over small, and draw a bark through it, and maim it with a knife, as far as it standeth on the top, & in eight days after, pour water upon it, that the top of the stump may close. This must be done in harvest, and in the March following cut it off from the tree, and bruise the top, and put it with the same earth in other ground. The eighth Way. Will you graft a tree that the fruit be without stones. Take a sprout and graft it into a great stump, with the thicker and lower part of the sprout, then take the upper or thinner end of the sprout, and cut it also fit to be graffed, and turn it downward, and graft it into the said stump; and when the sprout of both sides prospereth, cut it in the midst asunder, so that which is grown right upward with the tree, the fruit of it hath stones, but that which was the top of the sprout that groweth contrary, brings forth fruit without stones. And if so be the turned sprout prosper, you must break off the other, to the end, that the turned sprour do not perish, which you may try after this sort; for oftentimes it cometh and prospereth, and many times it is perished and spoiled. How Cherries are to be graffed, that they may come without stones. WIll you make that Cherries grow without stones? pair a little Cherry tree at one year old at the stump, and cleave it asunder from the top to the root, which do in May, and make an Iron fit to draw the heart or marrow from both sides of the tree; then tie it fast together, and anoint it with Ox dung or lome, and within a year after, when it is grown and healed, go to another little tree which is of the same kind, and which hath not yet brought fruit, and graft that same on the little tree, so shall that same tree bring his fruit without stones. How a Vine is to be planted upon a Cherry tree. PLant a Vine tree next unto a Cherry tree, and when it groweth high, then pierce a hole into the Cherry tree right above it, that the hole be no bigger than the Vine is thick, and pair the upper bark of the Vine branch till unto the green, so fare as it must go through the tree, and look well to it that the branch of the Vine be not bruised, and well anointed. You must not suffer any sprouts to come out of the Vine from the ground up, but unto the tree only, that which cometh out of the other side, let that same grow and bring fruit. Then the next March following if the Vine prosper and grow fast into the tree, then cut the Vine from the tree off, and anoint the place with diligence, and it will bring fruit. How a grape of a Vine may be brought into a glass. WIll you make that a grape grow into a narrow glass? take the glass before the grape cast her blood, or while she is little, and put her into the glass, and she will ripen in the glass. To graft Meddlers on a Pear tree. IF you graft the branch of a Meddler upon a Pear tree, the Meddlers will be sweet and durable, so that you may keep them longer than otherwise. How apples or other fruit may be made red. If you will graft upon a wild stump, put the sprouts in Pikes blood, and then graft them, and the fruit will be red. Otherwise. Take an apple branch, and graft it upon an alder stump, and the apples will be red. Likewise if you graft them upon cherry trees. Of the Quince tree. THe Quince tree cometh not of any grafting, but you must pluck him out by the roots, and plant him again into a good ground or earth. Otherwise. The Quince tree requireth a dry and sweet ground, and he prospereth therein. How to make that Quinces become great. TAke a branch of a Quince tree when it hath cast his blood where a Quince groweth at, and put it into a pot, and set it into the ground, and let the Quince grow in it, and it will be very great. And if you will show some cunning therewith, cause to be made a pot which hath a man's face in the bottom of it, or any other picture whatsoever, and when the quinces have blossomed, then bow the branch, and put the Quince into the pot. and she will grow very big, in the shape of a man, which may also be done in Pompons, Melons, Cucumbers, and other earthly fruits. The conclusion of graffing. OUT of all the forewritten causes (gentle reader) is evidently shown, that although every planting or grafting be better from like to like, and from kind to kind, yet nevertheless it agreeth also with contrary kinds, as now is said wherefore he that will exercise and use the same, and try divers kinds, he may see and make many wonders. What joy and fruit cometh of trees. The first fruit. THe first is, that you plant divers & many kinds: for every householder who hath care to his nourishment, with all diligence causeth oftentimes, such trees to be brought from foreign Countries. The second. The second is, when the trees be planted and sat orderly and pleasantly, they give no small pleasure to a man, therefore every one should cut his trees orderly, and he that cannot, should procure other men to do it, which know how to do it. The third is of well smelling and spiced fruit. Cleave a tree asunder, or a branch of a fruitful tree, to the heart or pith, and cut a piece out of it, and put therein poundred spices, or what spice soever you will, or what colour you will desire, and tie a bark hard about it, and anoint it with lome and Ox dung, and the fruit will get both the savour and colour according to the spice you have put in it. How sour fruits be made sweet. WHich tree beareth sour fruits, in the same pierce a hole a foot or somewhat less above the root, and fill that with honey, and stop the hole with a haw-thorne branch, and the fruit will be sweet. How trees ought to be kept when they wax old. WHen trees lose their strength and virtue for age, and the branches break off for the weight of the fruit, or when they wax barren for lack of moisture, that they bear not fruit every year, but scant every other or third year, you must cut some of his heavy branches, which he can little nourish, which is done to the end he might keep some moistness to himself for his nourishment, or else the moistness would go all into his branches. Whereby you may mark whether you must give them, or take away from them branches, according to their nourishment, and as the earth where she standeth can abide, that is, you must leave them so much as will nourish them, and no more, which if you do not, the trees will bring so little fruit, that your labour will not be recompensed. Which cutting of trees may be done from the beginning of November till to the end of March, in warm countries. But it is more natural to be done from the time that the leaves fall, till the time that they begin to grow green again, except where the frost is very great and sharp. How trees must be kept from divers sicknesses, and first how to keep them from the Canker. WHen the Canker cometh in any tree, he becometh barren and dry, for it mounteth from the stumps into the top, and when it taketh a pear or apple tree, the bark will be black and barren thereabouts, which must be cut off with a knife, to the fresh wood, and then the place must be anointed with Ox dung, and tied with bark, so that neither wind nor rain may hurt it. Against worms which must be driven out of the tree. IT happeneth oftentimes, that the superfluities of moistness in the trees breaketh out like as sometimes to a man or beast between the flesh and skin: and when that beginneth to rot, worms grow out of it, which takes his strength away: wherefore mark, When the bark of a tree at any time swells, cut it presently open that the poison may run out, and if you find already worms in it, draw them out with a little Iron hook. How the worms are to be killed, if they be already grown into the tree. IF you will kill the worms which grow in the tree, take Pepper, Laurel, and Incense, and mingle all well together with good wine, and pierce a hole into the tree downward, to the pith or heart of the tree, and pour this mixture into it, and stop it with a hawthorn, and the worms will die. Otherwise. Take afhes or dust and mingle it with salad oil, anoint the trees therewith, and the worms will die. Otherwise. Take powdered Incense when you graft, and bring it between the bark of the stump, which you will graft, and no worms will eat the fruit. When a tree in many places becometh changeable because of worms, or superfluous humours, Cleave the tree at some end from the top of the stump to the earth, that all the foul liquors may come out and dry. Also when a tree becomes sick because of evil humours or fault of ground, so that 〈◊〉 becometh worm-eaten, or brings no fruit, take the earth away from the root, and put other sweeter in the place, and pierce a great hole in the stump, and put therein a pin of Oak, and it helpeth. A remedy against Caterpillars. ALL kind of Caterpillars which eat the green, and blossoms of the tree, do hurt them very much, so that thereafter may come no fruit. Therefore their eggs which lie hidden, as it were in a cobweb, must diligently be searched, and burned from the boughs, before they bring forth other Caterpillars, which do in December, january, and February. Some were wont to break them off, and tread them with their feet, but therewith they be not wholly killed. The fire consumeth all things, and therefore it is best to burn them. Against the Pismires or Aunts, when they will hurt the young trees. CUT the leaves off which are eaten or poisoned of the Aunts or Pismires, and where there is any thing made unclean in the top of the tree, of those little worms, that rub inpieces with your hands, that it may not slain the other leaves, and that the young sprouts may grow up without any hindrance. How to keep the Pismires from the trees. FIrst make a juice of an herb, called Portabaca, and mix it with vinegar, and sprinkle the stump therewith, or anoint the stump with wine dregs. Some take a little weak pitch, but very thin, that it may not hurt the tree. Another Instruction. Take a little bundle of cotton, wool, flax, or tow, and lay it about the stump, and tie likewise a bundle above, about the stump, and draw it out a little, and the Pismires can do no hurt: or put about the stump birdlime. In what time of the harvest the fruit must be gathered. THe Fruits are not altogether at one time gathered, for they are not ripe all at once, as some pears which show the ripeness by the colour, those should be gathered in Summer, and if you let them stand too long, they will not last. Pears which are ripe in harvest, those may be gathered in October, when the weather is clear and dry: in harvest in the increase of the Moon, Fruits may be gathered. A short Instruction very profitable and necessary for all those that delight in Gardening, to know the times and seasons when it is good to sow and replant all manner of seeds. CAbbages must be sown in February, March, or April, at the waning of the Moon, and replanted also in the decrease thereof. Cabbage, Lettuce, in February, March, or july, in an old Moon. Onions and Leeks must be sown in February or March, at the waning of the Moon. Beets must be sown in February, or March, in a full moon. Coleworts white and green in February, or March, in an old moon, it is good to replant them. Parsneps must be sown in February, April or june, also in an old moon. Radish must be sown in February, March, or June, in a new moon. Pompions must be sown in February, March, or june, also in a new moon. Cucumbers and Melons must be sown in February, March or June, in an old moon. spinach must be sown in February or March, in an old moon. Parsley must be sown in February or March, in a full moon. Fennell and Annisseed must be sown in February or March, in a full moon. White Cycory must be sown in February, March, July or August, in a full moon. Carduus Benedictus must be sown in February, March or May, when the moon is old. Basill must be sown in March, when the moon is old. Purslane must be sown in February or March, in a new moon. Margeram, Violets and Time, must be sown in February, March or April, in a new moon. Floure-gentle, Rosemary and Lavender, must be sown in February or April, in a new moon. Rocket and Garden cresses, must be sown in Fepruary in a new moon. Savell must be sown in February or Match, in a new moon. Saffron must be sown in March, when the moon is old. Coriander and Borage must be sown in February or March, in a new moon. Hartshorne and Sampire must be sown in February, March or April, when the moon is old. Gillyflowers, Hearts-ease, and Wall-flowers must be sown in March or April, when the moon is old. Cardons and Artochokes must be sown in April or March when the moon is old. Chickweed must be sown in February or March, in the full of the moon. Burnet must be sown in February or March, when the moon is old. Double Marigolds must be sown in February or March, in a new moon. Isop and Savoury must be sown in March, when the moon is old. White Poppy must be sown in February or March, in a new moon. Palma Christi must be sown in February, in a new moon. Sparages and Sperage is to be sown in February, when the moon is old. Lark's foot must be sown in February, when the moon is old. Note that at all times and seasons, Lettuce, Radish, spinach and Paseneps may be sown. Note also, from cold are to be kept Coleworts, Cabbage, Lettuce, Basill, Cardons, Artochokes, and Colefloures. Worthy remedies and secrets availing against the stroying of Snails, Cankerwormes, the long bodied Moths, Garden-fleas, Earthworms, and Moles. AFricanus, singular among the Greek writers of husbandry, reporteth, that Garden-plants and roots may well be purged and rid of the harmful worms, if their dens or deep holes be smoked, the wind aiding, with the dung of the Cow or Ox burned. That worthy Pliny in his first book of Histories writeth, that if the Owner or Gardener sprinkleth the pure mother of the oil Olive, without any salt in it, doth also drive the worms away, and defend the Plants and Herbs from being gnawn of them. And if they shall cleave to the roots of the plants, through malice or breeding of the dung, yet this weedeth them clean away. The plants or herbs will not after be gnawn or harmed by Garden-fleas, if with the natural remedy, as with the herb Rocket, the Gardener shall bestow his beds in many places. The Coleworts and all potherbs are greatly defended from the gnawing of the Garden-fleas, by Radish growing among them. The eager or sharp vinegar doth also prevail, tempered with the juice of Henbane, and sprinkled on the garden fleas. To these, the water in which the herb Nigella Romana shall be steeped for a night, and sprinkled on the plants, as the Greek Pamphilus reporteth, doth alike prevail against the garden fleas. Paladius Rutilius reporteth, that the noisome vermin or creeping things will not breed of the Potherbs, if the Gardener shall before the committing to the earth, dry all the seeds in the skin of the Tortoise, or sow the herb Mint in many places of the Garden, especially among the Coleworts. The bitter Fitch and Rocket (as I before uttered) bestowed among the potherbs, so that the seeds be sown in the first quarter of the Moon, do greatly avail us. Also the Canker and Palmer worms, which in many places work great injury both to the Gardens and vines, may the owner or Gardener drive away with the figtree ashes sprinkled on them and the herbs. There be some which sprinkle the plants and herbs made with the lee of the figtree ashes, but it destroys the worms, to strew (as experience reporteth) the ashes alone on them. There be others which rather will to plant or sow that big onion, named in Latin Scylla or Squilla here and there in beds, or hang them in sundry places of the Garden. Others also will to six River Cresses with nails in many places of the garden, which if they shall yet withstand or contend with all these remedies, then may the Gardener apply to exercise this devise, in taking the Ox or Cow urine, and the mother of oil Olive, which after the well mixing together, and heating over the fire, the same be stirred about until it be hot, and when through cold, this mixture shall be sprinkled on the potherbs and trees, doth marvellously prevail, as the skilful Anatolius of experience reporteth. The worthy Paladias' Rutilius reporteth, that if the owner or Gardener burn great bundles of the Garlic blades (without heads) dried, through all the allies of the Garden, and unto these the dung of Backs added, that the savour of the smoke (by the help of the wind) may be driven to many places, especially to those where they most abound and swarm, and the Gardener shall see so speedy a destruction, as is to be wondered at. The worthy Pliny of great knowledge, reporteth that these may be driven from the potherbs, if the bitter Fitch seeds be mixed and sown together with them, or the branches of the trees, Crevices hanged up by the horns in many places, doth like prevail. These also are letted-from increasing, yea, they in heaps presently gathered are destroyed, as the Greeks report of observation, if the Gardener by taking certain Palmer or Cankerworms out of the Garden next joining, shall seethe them in water with Dill, and the same being through cold, shall sprinkle on the herbs and trees, that the mixture may wet and soak through the nests, even unto the young ones, cleaving together, that they may taste thereof, will speedily dispatch them. But in this doing, the Gardener must be very wary, and have an attentive eye, that none of the mixture fall on his face or hands. Besides these, the owner or Gardener may use this remedy certain, and easily prepared, if about the big arms of trees, or stumps of the herbs, he kindle and burn the stronger lime and brimstone together. Or if the owner make a smoke with the Mushrooms, growing under the Nut tree, or burn the hoofs of Goats, or the gum Galbanum, or else make a smoke with the Heart's horn, the wind aiding, by blowing towards them. The husbandmen and gardeners in our turn have found out this easy practice, being now common every where: which is on this wise, that when these after-showres of rain are cropen into the warm sun, or into places standing against the Sun, early in the morning shake either their fruits and leaves of the potherbs, or the boughs of the trees, for these being yet stiff, through the cold of the night, are procured of the same, the lighter and sooner to fall, nor able after to recover up again, so that the Palmer worms thus lying on the ground, are then in a readiness to be killed of the Gardener. If the owner mind to destroy any other creeping things noyous to herbs and trees, (which Paladius and Rutilius name, both herb and Leek-wasters) then let him hearken to this invention and devise of the Greek Dyophanes, who willeth to purchase the maw of a Weather sheep new killed, and the same as yet full of his excremental filth, which lightly cover with the earth in the same place, where these most haunt in the Garden, and after two days shall the Gardener find there, that the moths with long bodies, and other creeping things will be gathered in divers companies to the place right over it, which the owner shall either remove and carry further, or dig and bury very deep in the same place, that they may not after arise and come forth, which when the Gardener shall have exercised the same but twice or thrice, he shall utterly extinguish, and quite destroy all the kinds of creeping things that annoy and spoil the Garden plants. The husbandmen in Flanders arm the stocks, and compass the bigger arms of their trees, with wisps of straw handsomely made and fastened or bound about, by which the Palmer worms are constrained to creep up to the tops of the trees, and there stayed, so that, (as it were by snares and engines laid) these in the end are driven away, or thus in their way begun, are speedily or soon after procured to turn bacl again; As unto the remedies of the Snails particularly belongs. These may the Gardener likewise chase from the kitchen herbs, if he either sprinkle the new mother of the oil olive, or soot of the chimney on the herbs, as if he bestowed the bitter sitch in beds among them, which also avails against other noisome worms, and creeping things, as I afore uttered, that if the Gardener would possess a green and delectable Garden, let him then sprinkle diligently all the quarters, beds, and borders of the Garden, with the mixture of water and powder of Fennigreeke tempered together, or set upright in the middle of the Garden, the whole bare head without the flesh of the unchaste Ass, as I afore wrote. Excellent inventions and helps against the Garden-Moles. THe skilful Paxanus hath left in writing, that if the Gardener should make hollow a big nut, or bore a hollow hole into some sound piece of wood being narrow, in filling the one or the other with Rosin, Pitch, Chaff and Brimstone, of each so much as shall suffice to the filling of the Nut, or hollow hole in the wood, which thus prepared in a readiness, stop every where with diligence, all the go forth, and breathing holes of the Mole, that by those the fuming smoke in no manner may issue out, yet so handle the matter, that one mouth and hole be only left open, and the same so large, that well the nut or vessel kindled within, may be laid within the mouth of it, whereby it may take the wind of the one side, which may so send in the savour both of the rosin and brimstone into the hollow tomb, or resting place of the Mole; by the same practice so workmanly handled, by filling the holes with the smoke, shall the owner or Gardener either drive quite away all the Moles in the ground, or find them in a short time dead. There be some that take the white Neesewort, or the rind of Cynocrambes beaten and farced, and with Barley meal and eggs finely tempered together, they make both Cakes and Pasties wrought with wine and milk, and those they lay with in the Moles den or hole. Albertus' of worthy memory reporteth, that if the owner or Gardener closeth or diligently stoppeth the mouths of the Moleholes, with the garlic, onion, or leek, it shall either drive the Moles away; or kill them through the strong savour stinking or breathing into them. Many there be, that to drive away these harmful Moles, do bring up young Cats in their Garden ground, and make tame Weasels, to the end, that either of these through the hunting of them, may so drive away this pestiferous annoyance, being taught to watch at their straight passages, and mouths of the holes coming forth. Others there be also, which diligently fill and stop up their holes with the red Okare or Ruddell, and juice of the wild Cucumber, or sow the seeds of Palma Christi, being a kind of Satyrion, in beds, through which they will not after cast up, nor tarry thereabout. But some exercise this easy practice, in taking a live Mole, and burning the powder of brimstone about him, being in a deep earthen pot, through which he is procured to cry, all others in the mean time as they report, are moved to resort thither. There are some besides, which lay silk snares at the mouth of their holes. To the simple Husbandmen may this easy practice of no cost suffice, in setting down into the earth, a stiff rod or green branch of the Elder tree. FINIS. depiction of the grafting of trees, with diagram of a garden tree plot depiction of various tools for gardening and grafting diagram of a borderless knot or garden plot with lines A Direction to set or lay your lines or thread to make or draw a simple Knot, without a border. Your must leave your Lines as they be first set, until your Knot be altogether finished or done. diagram of a borderless knot or garden plot with lines The Manner or Ordering to set the thread or line upon another manner of Knot. diagram of a borderless knot or garden plot with lines A Direction to fasten your Lines to make another manner of Knot. diagram of a plain knot or garden plot without lines A plain Knot without Lines. diagram of a plain knot or garden plot without lines A plain Knot without Lines. diagram of a plain knot or garden plot without lines Another plain Knot without Lines. diagram of a plain knot or garden plot without lines Another. diagram of a plain knot or garden plot without lines Another. diagram of a plain knot or garden plot without lines Another. diagram of a plain knot or garden plot without lines Another. diagram of a plain knot or garden plot without lines Another. diagram of a plain knot or garden plot without lines Another. diagram showing a method for fastening lines to draw a knot or garden plot A Direction to fasten Cords or Lines to draw a Knot with a Border; as also to make a Border of Beds parted in the midst. diagram of a bordered knot or garden plot A Direction of the Cords fastened upon the Border, with a Knot in the midst. diagram of a bordered knot or garden plot A Border with a Knot in the midst thereof. diagram of a bordered and divided knot or garden plot A Border or Knot divided or parted, containing five small Knots. diagram of a bordered and divided knot or garden plot The form of the Lines set upon the Knot, whose Squares or Beds are parted. diagram of a bordered and divided knot or garden plot A Border of Beds or Squares parted; and the midst thereof. diagram of a maze garden plot A Maze. diagram of a garden tree plot with lake