The FLOWER Garden. Showing Briefly how most Flowers are to be ordered, the time of Flowering, taking of them up, and of planting them again. And how they are increased by Layers, Off sets, Slips, Curting, Seed, etc. With other necessary observations relating to a Flower Garden. Whereunto is now added. The gardiner's or Planters Dialling, (viz.) how to draw a Horizontal Dial, as a Knot in a Garden, on a Grassplot, or elsewhere, the like before not extant. By William Hughes. London, Printed for William Crook at the Green-Dragon without Temple Barr, 1672. To the Reader. ALmighty God, the only first being, the Maker and Disposer of all things, made the World out of nothing, and hath ever since (as at this time) governed the same, who also made man of the dust of the earth, and put him in an undoubtedly pleasant Garden, but he, by reason of his disobedience, being turned forth, it is impossible for us his posterity ever to attain unto the like here below; yet doubtless by industry and pains taking in that lovely, honest, and delightful recreation of planting, we may gain some little glimmering of that lost splendour, although with much difficulty, and the more, by reason of that apparent variation in nature, all elementary bodies never standing at a stay, but are ever increasing or decreasing, the Sun causing day and night, Summer, and Winter, etc. whose presence and nearer approach doth, as it were, revive and bring to life many beautiful Vegetables, and in whose absence they mourn, whither, languish and decay, new varieties being every year brought to light; so wonderful indeed are the works of nature, that the least grass doth not only deserve our contemplation, but admiration, as not able to trace its footsteps to its first nothing; much more admirable than are the various beautiful Flowers, and ever greene's (far surpassing all Art) in a good and well ordered Garden; which are already reconciled to this our colder Climate, and doubtless many more in time will be, especially if those learned of the Royal Society, whose fancies run this way, would be pleased to employ their further endeavours herein. Now concerning this practical discourse of Flowers, it might have been drawn out to the young Gardeners vade mecum, had not the unexpected hasting of it to the Press prevented, which also caused many mistakes, which I have not only endeavoured to amend, but also have added something to this second impression, because of the more than ordinary acceptance the first found (which in three months' time were all sold; notwithstanding the homely dress it appeared in) nor do I intent this first part to Flowrists, Gardeners, or others, who have experience in this recreation, though to them also it may be useful, but chief for more plain and ordinary Country men and women as a perpetual Almanac or Remembrancer of them when, and which way, most of their Flowers are to be ordered, although not the full circumstance of doing every particular thereunto belonging; and the rather I commend it to such, because for the want of these or the like instructions, many opportunities I find are let slip of taking up, removing, planting, &c, which cannot be recalled; besides, the price hereof is small, and therefore within the most ordinary reach which larger books are not, I am sure this will hurt none, neither is there any but know that books have their errors and fate as well as their Authors, and therefore I hope will offend none; but many there be in the world as one saith (and I find it to be true) that carp and censure, because mala mens malus animus, an evil mind in itself, is an evil mind to all others; but as for men endued with more sobriety, I know where there is several constructions may be made they will take the most favourable, and not make more thereof then is meant, nor espy more in others than consequently may be perceived in themselves; So that were I able to gratify such, it would be the highest ambition of their most humble Servant, W. Hughes. The Table A AFricanes Page 8 Amaranthus Page 7 Anemones Page 20 Anconitum Page 52 Arbor-vitae Page 57 Aspodils Page 23 Auricula's Page 24 B Bastard Sena Page 57 Bears-ears Page 24 Of a hot bed Page 4 Bell-flower Page 25 Bindweed Page 7 Blew-bottles Page 15 Bulbous violets Page 25 C Champions Page 57 Candy tufts Page 12 Cardinal flower Page 25 Carnations Page 26 Caterpillars Page 11 Champions Page 33 Cistus Page 27 Colombines Page 17 Corn-flags Page 53 Corn flowers Page 15 Cowslips Page 28 Crocusses Page 28 Crowsfoot Page 54 Cyclamen Page 30 Crown Imperial Page 29 D Daffodils Page 30 Daisies Page 31 Dogs teeth Page 57 Double Hollyocks Page 17 Double poppies Page 18 Dung Page 2 E Emanies, see Anemones Everlasting pease Page 11 F Fennel Flowers Page 13 Flower deluces Page 32 Flower of Bristol Page 33 Four gentle, see Amaranthus Flowers raised by Layers Page 49 Flowers increased by slips. Page 56 Flowers raised by off-sets Page 52 Flowers of the Sun Page 33 Fox Gloves Page 16 Fraxinella Page 34 French Honey suckles Page 10 French marigolds Page 8 Frittillaries Page 34 G Garden Mallows Page 16 Gilder Rose Page 58 Gilly Flowers Page 26 Gilly Flowers winter Page 34 H Helebore Page 36 Hepatica Page 37 Herb Mullen Page 14 Honey-suckles Page 37 Of a hot bed Page 4 Hypericum frutex Page 50 I Jacints Page 37 Jasmies' Page 50 Indian Cresses Page 14 L Lady smock's double Page 37 Larks heels Page 14, 15 Larks spurs Page 15 Lavender Page 58 Lichnis Calcedonica Page 33 Lilies Page 53 Liverwort Page 37 London pride, see sweet William's Lupins Page 12 M Margerome gentle Page 58 Marvile of peru Page 8 Mastic Page 59 Meadow Saffron Page 38 Meadow sweet Page 38 Mizerions' Page 39 Moly's Page 39 The monthly Calendar Page 62 Mortagons' Page 53 N Narrisses Page 39 Nersterians Page 6 Nigella Page 13 Nightshade Page 39 Non-such Page 33, 59 O Oxlips Page 28 P Paeones Page 4● Persian Lilies Page 54 Pinks Page 4● Pipe tree Page 5● Plants etc. of se●● not sown in 〈◊〉 beds Page ●● Pomegranate tree Page 5● Poimroses Page 4● Q Queens Gillyflowers Page 36 R Ranunculesses Page 54 Red satin flower Page 10 Roses Page 50 Rosemary Page 41, 59 S Sage Page 60 Saffron flowers Page 41 Sateririons' Page 25 Scarlet Beans Page 12 Scarlet Kidney Beanes Page 12 Shrub Mallows Page 50 Shrub nightshade Page 50 Shrub spiraea Page 50 Snails Page 11 Snap dragon Page 16 Southerwood Page 60 Showbread Page 30 Spanish broom Page 41 Star flowers Page 42 Stock Gillyflowers Page 35 Stone Crop Page 60 Stramonium Page 13 Straberry Tree Page 42 Sumach Page 60 Sun flowers Page 42 Sweet Basil Page 9, 10 Sweet John Page 43 Sweet marjerom Page 9, 10 Sweet William's Page 43 Spring, see Pipetree T thorn apple Page 13 Time Page 60 Tree of life Page 57 Trefoil Page 61 Tulips Page 43 V Virgins bower Page 51 W Wall flowers Page 34 Wild. and Toad flax Page 16 Woodbine Page 51 Wolfsbane Page 52 Winter Cherries Page 48 Woody St. Johns-wort Page 50 THE FLOWER-GARDEN Epitomised. WHosoever they are that intent a Flower-Garden, aught to have either a Nursery, or else some convenient place in the Kitchen-Garden, Both for the making of hot Beds, whereon to raise tender Plants (by Seeds) that will not endure the Winter; as also to have other necessary Beds therein of good earth, fit to sow such Seed on that requires not so great a heat as the other; which seedlings when they are grown up, may be immediately removed into the Flower-Garden, or else set in some order in the same place, or on a fitting Bed in that Garden, to remain until such time they bear Flowers; and then those which are double, and such other as are acceptable, may be transplanted into such places of the Flower-Garden as you see convenient; and the rest may be cast away as little woth. And there ought always to kep● in a readiness for this purpose, several sorts of good Dung, every sort by itself, mixing Lime with some of it; so that after it hath continued a while and is petrified and that it will molder & crumb●● into small particles in sifting, 〈◊〉 may be then applied with discretion, according to the nature of the Ground, and quality of the Flowers. If the ground be naturally cold, as Clay-ground for the most part is, or moist, as Fenny-ground usually is, than Pigeons, Hens, or Horse Dung is the best; If it be naturally ●ot ground, Hogs-dung well rotten is good; and indeed for almost all Flowers & tender Plants, Sheep's dung mingled with earth well rotten together, is good, it being finely fitted; or else in some respects, very good mould alone is used; but especially for the raising of choice Flowers by Seed, the earth of Willows is the best. The last mentioned sorts of Dung are also very good to be steeped in water; for to water Seeds and te●●● Plants, for the bringing them ●●o a reasonable strength; and also it is very good for to water young Layers withal, provide the season be not too very hot. Of a Hot Bed. A Hot Bed ought to be made● Horse-dung, with some Straw 〈◊〉 Hay amongst it newly taken from the Stable, and laid of what bred● and length you think that you shall have occasion for to make use of it may be laid a yard, or four for thick or more, binding it abo●● with Hay, or Straw-bands, to ke●● it handsomely up together, th●● lay fine rank sifted mould on it fo● inches, or about 5 fingers bread in depth; then arch or roof it o● with Hoops or Sticks so as to b● up our Tilt, Mats, Straw, or w●●● else you intent to cover it wi●● and being close covered, l●t i●●n●ain for the space of 4 or 5 da●● until the violent heat be a little ●ver; and then give it some air, and ●ow your Seeds thereon, endeavouring afterwards as nigh as you can to keep it in a temperate heat, and when your Seedlings are green, air them at convenient times, when winds, and cold, or great store of wet will not much offend them, using besides Mats, also to cover them with Cup glasses, or Casements as well when they are planted on the second Bed (as now at the first) at all such times as are necessary, or else if such diligence be not used, you run the hazard of ●oosing many hopeful Plants. As your Plants grow strong, either remove them to another Bed ●ess hot, or else plant them in good earth here and there in your Garden, as you see good, watering them at all seasonable times requi●ed. Flowers which are raised by Seeds from an Hot Bed, are, Africanes. Amaranthus. Blind-weed. Marvile of Peru, etc. There are other choice Seeds sown on Hot Beds, some of which more properly belong to the Kitchen-Garden, as Melons, Gourds, Cucumbers, early Lettuce, etc. Nerstertians, Flower in September, and are raised from Seed sown on a hot bed in March, and when the Plants are pretty strong, and the heat of the first Bed faileth, they are to be removed with some of the same mould about the roo● to a second hot Bed, and in May removed from thence into good ground, and where they may be most in the Sun, till they Flower and bear Seed. Bind weed, the greater kind flowereth in September; and they are every year raised by sowing the Seed on a hot Bed, and afterwards replanted in such order as other nice Plants are. Amaranthus or Flower-gentle, do most commonly flower in August, or September, and they are raised from Seed which ought to be sown on a hot Bed in March, and to have them forwardly to bear good Seed, when the heat of the first Bed faileth, being now pretty well grown up, remove them with the mould about the root altogether to another Bed, and then again in May transplant them into such places (the earth being made very good) that lie to the Sun where, they may stand all the Summer to Flower and Seed. Africanes, or French Marigolds, flower in August or September; and are raised by Seed sown on a Hot Bed in the end of March, or the beginning of April, and when the Plants are grown up almost a foot, or at least when they are reasonable strong, they may be removed into the Garden in good Earth in the out Borders where, they may have room, and stand in the Sun to Flower and ●eed. Marvile of Peru, do commonly flower from July, until cold mornings check them; they are raised of Seeds which are to be set in the month of April in a Hot bed, and afterwards removed into the Garden, where they may have the most benefit of the Sun, and so will they flower the sooner, but it they bear not Seed the first year, then cover them from the cold in winter, and the next Summer they will be forwardly Plants for Seed; or the roots may be taken up at the beginning of Winter, and dried, and kept in a box of Wool, and being set in good mould again in March, they will then prosper. Of Plants and Flowers raised of Seeds which are not sown on Hot Beds. FIrst Sweet-Marjerom, and Sweet-Bassil, although they bear no beautiful Flowers, yet for their odoriferous scent may properly here be added, because they are often put into Nosegays, Sweet-waters, Perfumes, etc. Red-Sattin flower, Snails and Caterpillars (Flowers so called,) everlasting Pease, scarlet Beans, Lupins, Candy-Tufts, Love-Apples, Stramonium, or Thorn-Apples, Nigella, or Fennel flowers, Herb mullen, Indian-cresses or yellow Larks-heels, Larks-heels or Larks-spurs, Corn-flower, Thistles, Fox-gloves, Tode-flax, or wild-flax, Snap Dragons, Colombines, double Holioaks or Garden-Mallows; these are Flowers raised every second year at the least, of which in order as followeth. Sweet-Marjerom, is raised of Seed, it being every year sowed in April, upon good and fine mould, by reason it is often put in Nosegays, the pleasant scent thereof much comforting the Brain. Sweet-Bassil, is raised from Seed ●own in April, in very good sifted earth, and is commonly used for those intents and purposes as Sweet-Marjerom is. Red-Satten-Flower, or French-Honey-Suckles flower in June and July, and they are raised from seed, being sown in April; but for the most part they flower not till the second year after they are sown, and then the Seed ought to be preserved for increase. Snails and Caterpillars (so called from the similitude they have with those Animals) are all the sorts raised from Seed sowed in April, which must be supported when they are grown, they cannot properly be called Flowers, but they have very pretty heads. Everlasting Pease, so called because the Root continueth long, & they are called Pease, because the grain is much like unto Pease; they are raised of Seed sowed in March, which for the most part it is 2 or 3 years before it beareth flowers, & grain, & aught to be supported when it is grown up, the branches thereof dying every year in winter. Scarlet Beans, or Scarlet Ridney-Beans are raised every year or seed being set in good ground where the Sun hath reflection in the Month of April, they will climb up bushes or sticks set for that purpose, or being spread and fastened up to a Wall, their Scarlet Flowers make a pretry show, for they have more or less Blossoms growing on them for several Months. Lupins, all the sorts of them, are every year raised from the seed, being set in good mould in March or April, according as the season happeneth to fall out, for which your own reason may best instruct you. Candy-Tufts, Flower in or near the month of July, and are raised every year from the Seed, being sowed in April. Apples of Love are planted, not for any Flower they bear, but or the rarity of them, they are raised 〈◊〉, which ought to be sowed ●rank and fine earth in April, and ●eing carefully watered afterwards ●e fruit will be ripe about Septem●er. Stramonium or Thorn apples, are ●ory year raised from Seed, either ●y these me which falleth from the fruit when they are full ripe, in ●●e same place where they grow, ●r else the Seed may be gathered when it is black, and full ripe, and ●ept until March or April, and ●hen sowed in good and rank Earth ● the Sun; but the best time in my pinion is to sow it in September of October, and then it will yield good ●eed the Summer following, this ●lant is made much use of in Chy●●geri●●. Nigella, or Fennel Plougher, doth ummonly boat or begin to Flower ●● deed June or July, and they are raised from Seed being sown ●● March or April; but I have set them grown again by the Seed th●● hath fallen from them in the sam● place. Herb-mullen, all the kinds ther● of do flower in May or June; a●● they are for the most part raised 〈◊〉 Seed: being sowed at the time a● other Seeds are; they usually bring forth Flowers the second year, yet the Roots of some of them continue two or three years, or more. Indian-Cresses, or yellow Lark●heels, flourish much in July, and are flowering more or less from the time until cold mornings come to nip them, they are raised of Seed which must be sown in very good mould in April; and it is necessary to be very cautious of having good ripe Seep, for that is a man property in raising any sort of Plants o● Flower, for if the seed be not good you may very well fail of your expectation. Larks-heels, or Larks-spurs, do flower about the end of June, July or August, and they are raised of Seeds, which may be sown as other Seeds in March, or in the beginning of April: but the Seed that falleth from them will come up in the same place the next Spring; or if you please you may sow some of the Seed as soon as it is ripe, descending it a little from the Frosts in Winter, and then they will be forwardly, and bring forth good seed the Autumn following. Corn-flower, or Blew bottles, there is of these Flowers many different colours, the most of which flower in June or July, the roast in August, they are raised from Seed, being sowed about September, and it will be ripe to gather again, towards the latter end of August the next year. Fox Gloves, the most part of them flower in June and July, the rest in August; they are raised of Seed, which ought to be sown in good fine earth in April, and then in September, they may be removed and set in more handsome order they flower not until the second year. Wild and Toad flax, of all sorts, flower in July and August, and the Seed is ripe about September, and it must quickly after that time be sowed again in such ground, and in such a manner as other Seeds are. Snap-dragons, flower in May, June, and July, and are raised from Seeds being sowed in good & fine Earth as other Seeds are, they bear Flowers the second year, and the Seed is usually ripe in August; they may also be raised by setting th● slips in May or June. Colombines, Flower about the latter end of May, and are commonly raised by sowing the Seed in good and fine Earth in April, which in two years' space will bring forth Flowers, and then the best may be chosen, and removed into places convenient, where they may stand three or four year, and in the interim you ought to provide, more to supply their room, casting the old away as little worth. Double-holliocks, or Garden-mallows, Flower in August and September, and they are most commonly raised by Seed, which may be sown in April, and then they will bear Flowers the second year, which in October the best may be made choice of, and removed into the Flower-Garden, where they may stand some considerable time, for they last many years. Double-Poppies, Flower for the most part in June, and are raised from the Seed, from which it beareth great store enclosed in a head which may be gathered when full ripe, and the Seeds sown as other Seeds are quickly after; or else it may be sowed in March or April following but it will grow again for several years together by the same Seed that falleth down in the place where they grew, for they are very apt to prosper. There may besides these many other Flowers be raised from the Seed, the most part of which are of longer than a year, or two years' continuance, as; ANemones, Asphodels, Auricula's Bears-ears, Bell-flowers. Bulbous-Violets, Cardinal's flower, Carnations, Cistis, Cowslips, Crocusses, Crown-Imperials, Cyclamen, Daffodils, Daisies, some few, Flowers-de-luce, Flowers of Bristol, Flowers of the Sun, Fraxinolla's, Fritillaries, Gillyflowers. Helebores, Hepatica, Honry Suckles, Jacinths, Lady-Smocks, Liver wort, Lychnis Caleedonica, Meddow-Saffron, Meddow-Sweet, Mizerious, Moly, Narcissus, Night shades, Oxlips, Paonies, Pinks, Primroses, Rosemary of Spanish-seed, Saffron, Showbread, Spanish-broom, Star-flowers, Strawberry-tree, Sun-flowers, Sweet-Williams, Sweet-Johns, Tree Night shade, Tulips, Winter Cherries, etc. ALl these Flowers or Plants, may possibly be raised from Seed, but because the most part of them are more properly and better raised, either from off-sets, Layers, Slips, Cuttings, etc. we will in treating theteof, mention them particularly, as they are best raised and increased. Anemones, or Emanies, as some call them, Flower in March, April, and May, accordingly as the season of the year happeneth to be more hot or cold, and as the Roots were sooner or later set the choicest of these Anemones must be set in very good sifted mould in some place that is not too much in the Sun, in the month of September; all those which have broad leaves may be set three Fingers deep. Anemones with narrow leaves, flower about the same time as the other do, i. e. in March, April, or May, they must be planted in very good Earth as the former were in the month Octob. which is a month latter than the other; and if you desire to have some Flower very late, then keep of the worse sort out of the ground until February, and then plant them in some good Earth in shady place: some do put Willow Earth to each Root, the Root having been steeped some time before in warm water. If the Anemones of all sorts like their Ground and prosper well; that is, having good Flowers, and large Stalks, they may then stand the longer they be taken up, as till June or July; but if they seem but weakly Plants take them up sooner; however, when the leaves become yellow and withered, it is time to take them up, in which operation great care must be taken that you break them not, for if you do, they prosper not so well when they are set again. They may be kept in Sand a month's time after they are taken up, and then put them in Papers, writing the names thereon, and so keep them in a dry and cool place until you set them again, great variety of these Flowers are raised from Seed: which Seed ought to be chosen from the best and strongest Flowers, which is in or near unto May; this Seed must be gathered still as the Down riseth, or else it is lost by the wind, it may be separated from the Down by rubbing it in dry Sand; this Seed may be sowed from the middle to the latter end of August, in rich and very fine Earth very thick, either in Beds or in Boxes half a Finger depth, and when they appear above ground, you may then sift a little more light Earth on them, watering them a little at the first sowing; and in winter to defend them from the cold, you must cover them with Straw Mats, etc. born hollow that it touch them not, and in August following they may be taken up and planted again in order, where they may remain until they Flower, which will be in three or four years at the furthest, and then you may dispose them in your Gardens as you see good. Aspodils, the most part of them Flower in May and June, they are increased by taking them up once in two or three years, and parting the Root when the Stalk is dry, and then quickly planting them orderly again. Lilly-Aspodils, and Spiderworts, Flower in May and June, they are increased by taking them up once in two or three years, and parting the Roots; they will grow in an● indifferent ground: August is th● best time to transplant them. Auriculd's, or Bears ears, flow●● in April or May, and it may possible so fall that some of them ma● flower again about August, th● must be planted in rich Soil: the are increased by taking them up to wards the latter end of August, and parting the Roots, planting the presently again in very good & fin● sifted Earth, or Earth of Willow● in a place that is some what shade● and at a pretty good distance from each other, that they have roo● to spread; once in two years the may be taken up, that so the Ground wh●re they grew may ●● amended; var●ete of these Flowers are raised from Seed with muc● trouble. Bears-Ears, see Auricula Bell Flower or Sateririous, Flower about the middle of May, many of them grow wild, and may be digged up and planted in Gardens in june or july, in a shady and barren place (not in fat Earth) wa●ering them a little; they are increased by parting the Roots; or by the seed sowed soon after it is ●ipe. Bulbous Violet's flower from February until May, being increased by of-sets, and may be taken up and kept until August or September before you set them again. Catdinals' flower is but a tender plant, they flower from the beginning of june till August, and may be increased by parting the roots about September, being set in very good earth, and carefully defended the nipping cold of the Winter, or else it will not endure long with us. Carnations or Gillyflowers, red and white, scarlet and white, purple and white, of each of these there is many and great varieties, they flower in july and August, and are increased by layers, or raised from seed, it being preserved from the strongest of them, and carefully looked unto in Autumn, or else will be lost with the wind. In the month of April these seeds may be sown very thin after rain, on a Bed of good fresh Earth; and if the time prove dry afterwards, then water them a little, and when they are pretty well grown up, choose a wet time if you can to remove them, and so plant them again in rows where they may stand in the East Sun; and it may be the next year they may bea● Flowers, and then you will perceive which are double to be esteemed, and which are single to be rejected and cast away. And if you place them in pots, then fresh Earth is to be chosen; and observe as well in watering these, as most other Flowers or Plants that require it, to water them in the morning until the latter end of April, or thereabouts, whilst the weather is indifferently cool, and afterwards when the weather is hot, it is best to water them in the Evening; and if you suspect that your ●ots receive too much wet by rain, then lay them down upon one side to prevent it. Cistus, they Flower in june or july, and are raised from seed being ●owed in very good rich Earth, towards the latter end of Feb. or they ●e increased by new Plants taken ●m the old Tree, and planted in ●od Earth, and carefully looked unto; the seed is usually ready to be gathered in August, or beginning of September, which must be diligently looked to or else is apt to be all lost. Cowslips and Oxlips, flower from March until May, and some of them continue long in Flower, and they are increased by parting the Roots as Primroses are, yet they may also be raised by seed, if that which be good be chosen and sowed in very good Earth in September; then the effects thereof ma● be seen the Spring following. Crocusses, of which there is man sorts; those of the Spring flow in February and March, and a● increased rather by the Root the by seed; they are very apt to gro● although it be but ordina●● ground, and they may be taken 〈◊〉 when the leaves are withered a● kept dry until October, and th● planted again. Crocusses Autumnal, or Crocusses that flower in September or October, are most properly increased by the Roots which are very apt to grow and increase, and when the Fibres are withered they may then be taken up and kept dry until about August, and then planted again. And if they stand more than one year they increase very much the more. These Flowers may be raised of seed if it be chosen ripe and good, and sowed in very fine Earth, and once in two years removed in or about July, and set in good order, provided the ground be very right and good, so that they may there remain until they bear Flowers. Crown Imperial, flowereth in March or April, and are increased by the off-sets, that you may have from the greater Roots being taken up in June, when the stalks are dry, and planted again in August. Cyclamen or Sow bread (the Herb so called) that which is called the spring Cyclamen flowereth in April or May, the Summer soil: Cyclamen flowereth in June or July, and the Autumn Cyclamen flowereth in August and September; They are not often moved, but the best time to transplant them is in June and July; they are raised by sowing the seeds soon after they are ripe, in light and good Earth, covering them from the Frost the first Winter, and when they are two years old they may be transplanted. There is several sorts of Daffodils, those that bear only one Flower ought to be taken up every other year in June or July, keeping only the principal Roots dry until September, and then set them again, they flower in March and April. Rush Daffodils flower in April Bastard Daffodils flower in March, and if any will sow the seed of Daffodils let them sow it in September, and let it remain three or four years, and then in June take up the young Plants and plant them presently in rows in good Earth. The seed of the Sea Daffodils being sown may stand ten years unremoved. Daffodils that have several Flowers on one Stalk, do flower in April and May, and are for the most part increased by off-sets, nor are they to be often taken up because they endure well the cold. Daisies flower in April, and are increased by parting the Root, and setting them abroad where they may not be too much in the Sun either Spring or Fall; and being watered a little they seldom fail growing. Flower deluces flower one kind or other of them from April until July, before they have all done, and as soon as the leaves are dried down they may be taken up and kept dry until August or at the furthest September, and then order them in all respects as Tulips are, but there is some of these which may remain in the ground without removing several years, they may also be raised by the seed. Flag-flower-deluces, flower in and near the month of May, and may remain several years in the ground, but the best time to transplant them is in or near September and are increased by parting the Roots. Dwarf flower-deluces, do commonly Flower in April, May o● june, accordingly as the season ground, and place where they are planted happeneth to be, (which also causeth much difference in the late or early flowering of other Flowers) they increase by parting the Roots, and they will grow almost in any ground, and may be removed and planted in September. Flower of Bristol, Champion or Non-such, do flower from june or july, and so they remain flowering more or less of them until September, the Champions are increased by taking slips from the old Root, and planting them in August or September, which you must do every year, Non-such are increased by taking the young Plants which come up in March from the old Root, and planting them in ground that is not too hot or rank. Flowers of the Sun, do commonly flower about August or September; and are yearly raised of seed sown in good rank mould where they may have the benefit of the Sun in April, and the seed is ripe in Autumn; this should have been mentioned before but that it was forgotten. Fraxinella's flower in June and july, and is increased by taking of new Plants from the old Roots in March, which will endure long without moving; the seed is ripe in August, and must be very diligently and timely looked for, or else ●t will be lost, these may also be raised from the seed sown in February in very good Earth. Fritillaries, Flower from the latler end of March until May, and are increased by the Root which must be taken up in july and planted again in August, they are also raised from seed. Galliflowers, either Wall-flower or Winter Gillyflowers do flower in March, April and May, and they are increased by slips being set in March, on a Bank under some South wall to defend them from cold in Winter. Stock Gillyflowers do usually Flower in April, and some of them continue part of the Summer: they are for the most part raised from seed, it being sowed in April which is the best time, it must be sowed on a Bed of good and fine Earth very thin, and when they are grown up a Finger's length or more, then in the most rainy time you can meet with remove them, and presently plant them again on the same Bed or of some other at a reasonable distance; and when they have remained so planted a while longer, then take them up ●he second time, and plant them orderly abroad, so that they may be well rooted before cold weather that they may the better endure the Winter, there are sometimes double ones happen of those which are sowed: but the most part of them which are double are raised from slips taken from old Plants which are double, which must be shaded and watered for a time after they are planted. Queen's Gillyflowers or close-Silences, as some call them, are in flower in May, june and july; they are raised from the slips or branches thereof, they ought to be se● in places that are somewhat shady and must be watered after they a●● planted, they are also raised from s●ed. Helebores, the black flowere● at Christmas, all others for th● most part flower in May and june they are raised from seed, and endure long in the ground without removing; and most of them a●● easily made to grow. Hepatica or Liverworts flower in March, they are increased by parting the Roots, or by sowing the seed in Willow-earth, and after planting them forth in good and rank ground. Honey-Suckles, (the Herb so called) flowereth in May and june, and is raised from the seed, being sowed in any indifferent ground in February or March, etc. jacinths, flower from April until August if we consider all the kinds, and are increased by off-sets, being taken up and replanted in August; they ought not to be kept long above ground. Lady Smocks double, flower in April for the most part, and are increased by parting the Roots either early in the Spring or else in Autumn, and planting them in ground that is naturally not over dry. Liver-wort, see Hepatica. Lychnis Calcedonica, see Flowers of Bristol. Meadow Saffron, flowereth in September and October; they are increased by the Root being apt to grow, and must be taken up when the leaves are dry; and so kept forth of the ground dry until the latter end of August or September, and being then planted or set they quickly flower. Meadow sweet, one sort thereof may very fitly be here mentioned for the pretty Flower and Button it beareth: it is in its prime in May and june, it may be raised of seed sown in Autumn, in good Earth not too full of Dung but pretty moist, and then the roots will endure some years. Mizerions', some or other of them flower from january unto April, they are increased by seed, or sowing the Berries in july, in good Earth, and the second Spring they will come up, and in a year or two after they may be removed and placed elsewhere as is found most convenient. Molys, the most part of them Flower in May and june, they are increased by the Roots, which may be taken up when the Stalks are dry; and the principal Roots only planted again, but they need not be removed often: it may also be raised of seed. Narrisses, see Daffodils. Nightshade, Flowereth towards the latter end of May or in the beginning of june, and is increased by Layers, or else by sowing the seeds in a Box of very good Earth in March, so that they must be housed in Winter. Oxlips, see Cowslips. Paeones Flower in May, they are increased by taking them up in October or September, and parting the Root and planting them again, they will grow in ordinary ground, and will endure seven years or more without removing: they may be raised from seed, but it is very long before they come to Flower. Pinks Flower in june, and are increased by parting the Roots and Branches, or by sowing the seed; at the time, and after the same manner as other seeds are sown. Primroses both yellow and red, which are most of all esteemed and planted in Gardens, do Flower in or near the month of April, and some of them continue flowering all the year, they are increased by parting the Roots about October or November. Rosemaries, the several sorts Flower in May, and are increased by slips, which may be set in March or August, and I suppose it may be raised from seed brought from beyond Sea, for I remember that Rosemary seed brought from Spain, into the West-Indies, did prosper very well. Saffron flowers, see Crocus, but bastard Saffron is yearly raised from seed, which seed may be had at the Flowrists in London. Sow bread, see Cyclamen. Spanish-Broom flowereth in May, and is increased by Suckers or Layers, or else it may be raised by sowing the seed assoon as it is ripe, and it will endure being set against a South-wall many years. Star-flowers, do most commonly Flower in several months, according to their kinds: as in April, May, june, and some in August, and are increased by the Roots, and are taken up when the Roots are indifferently dry, and may be planted again in September. Strawberry-Tree, the Flowers of this Tree are not so beautiful as the Berries, which are ripe about October or November, and therefore is then in its greatest Splendour, it may be raised from seed or else by Layers, which having once taken Root by a South-wall, will endure some years very well. Sun-flowers grow very tall, and do for the most part Flower in September, and are yearly raised from seed, sown or set in March or April under a warm Wall. Sweet-iohns' Flower most of them in or near june, and are increased by planting the slips abroad, in some moist time in the Spring, and then they will take Root and abide the Winter: there may be variety raised from the seed. Sweet Williams and London-pride Flower at the same time, and are ordered as Sweet-iohns' are. Tre-night shade, see Nightshade. Tulips, of which in general there is three sorts, viz. Praecoces, Medea's, Serotinas, early, middle and late flowering Tulips. 1. Praecoces, first of all Flower in March & April, and are increased from the Roots, by off sets they are to be taken up about the latter end of june, and so kept dry until September or October, and then setorderly again. 2. Medea's do Flower in April and May, and are increased by off-sets, and may be taken up about the beginning of july, and kept dry until the middle or latter end of September, and then planted a-again. Serotinas flower in May and sometimes in june, and are also increased by off-sets, and they must be taken and kept dry until September or October, and then ordered and planted in all respects as the former. In taking them up, if the ground be so stiff as to use a Trowel, you must have a care of spoiling them, but if the mould be so light and hollow that you can take them up with only your fingers, there is no danger. And as you take them up, lay them on papers whereon the name of each sort is written; the Earth being taken clean off them, then lay them on a broad Floor to dry, and when they are dry take off the off-sets, which may be put into a Box or paper-Bag, with the name of each sort written on them; and in August plant all these off-sets. All the other best Roots may be wrapped in dry papers and put in a Box, or Boxes until you plant them in September, or rather if the ground be hot in October, but in the interim you must look to them that they corrupt not by moisture, for if they do they will then become soft as you may feel, and then they are little worth. When you plant them again let them be set in sifted Earth; in handsome Beds every sort by themselves in rows, noting every row or bed of every sort, with figures on a piece of Lead, referring to such a place in your Book, or else note them by papers only that thereby you may know every kind, and how to dispose them when they are taken up again. The most ordinary sort of these Flowers, if the Earth be good may remain two years in the ground if you please, before you take them up. It is a good way for those that have choice Tulips to arch the Beds over with Sticks or Cooper's Hoops, when they are budded and almost ready to Flower, that so they may be covered in the night to defend them from Frost, Hall, great Rains and high Winds, and also from extreme heat, especially when they are fully blown, for then a little Sun is enough for them; and so ordered they last in Splendour the longer, When the leaves are fain, break off the Heads, unless it be of those you intent to reserve for seed. Some increase Tulips by sowing the seed, by the which there sometimes happeneth many new varieties: but see that your seed be very good and full ripe; The seed may be gathered about the middle or latter end of july, and after they are gathered you may let them remain hanged up in the boles until the latter end of September or October, and then sow it in very good Earth: the ordinary sort in Beds not very thick or very deep; but the best way to sow the choiceest seed is it Boxes, and in the best sifted Earth you can get, the time is in March or April that they will begin to appear, and then about june when they are two years old you may take them up and set them again, presently in rows, but it will be six or seven years before they come to be strong and beat Flowers well. Observe to plant your off-sets first into the leanest of your ground, and then afterwards remove them into better, and so art they more apt to prosper well. Winter Cherries may be raised from seed, being sowed in its most natural time, that is, when the seed is full ripe, which is observed the best time to sow or set all such seed that will endure the Winter, and indeed some seeds falling to the ground of their own accord grow again, whereas being kept until Spring with all the industry that can be used will no● grow. Now all these last mentione● Flowers or Plants may possibly be raised from seed, but we have particularly set down how each o● them are best increased, either by seeds, off-sets, slips, etc. Many seeds must be gathered a little before they are full ripe, which may be kept in the Bowls or Heads wherein they grew, and laid a little afterwards in the Sun they will come to a sufficient maturity, which should they be let grow until they are full ripe in the open Air, you run a great danger of losing all by wind and weather. Of some Flowers, Flower bearing Trees and Shrubs, as are raised and increased from Layers, necessary for a Flower-Garden, as, CArnations of all sorts. Gillyflowers. Hypericum frutex. Jasmines, Pinks, Roses, Shrub nightshade, Shrub mallows. Shrub-Spiraea. Spiraea frutex. Virginian bower. Woody St Johnswort Woodbines, etc. OF such which are not before treated of I will mention as followeth in order. Hypericum frutex or Woody St. Johnswort, flowereth in April, and is increased by Layers. Jasmies' Flower in July and August, and are increased by Layers. Roses or Rosetrees all the many sorts of them flower in june and july, and are increased by Layers; they ought to be cut with the Shears after they have done bea●ing; these may also be increased by Suckers or Inoculation. Shrub nightshade, flowereth in May or june, and is increased by Layers. Shrub mallows, Flower for the most part in August or September, and are increased from Layers. Shrub Spiraea flowereth in August, and is also increased by Layers, Spiraea frutex is the same. Virgin's bower, flowereth in july 〈◊〉 August, and is increased by ●yers; they are very fit to cover arbours. Woodbine, that which is double ●wereth in May, and are easily ●eased by Layers, being very 〈◊〉 to take Root, these are fit to ●er Harbours, and to be plant●y Summer-houses, or by Gar●●-houses, etc. Woodbine, which is of a more ulsh colour flowereth in Iune ●aly, and is easily increased by ●ers, and is fit for such uses as 〈◊〉 Woodbines are. Of such Flowers as are raised, an● increased by off-sets: AConitum, Animones, Asphodels, Auriculas, or Bears-Bars. Bulbous Violets, Campanila, Cornflag, Crocusses, Crown imperial, Daffodils, Flowers-de-luce, Fritillares, Gentian, Gentianella's, jacinths, Lilies, Lilly-Aspodils, Mortagous, Medea's, Meddow-Saffron, Moly, Oxlips, Peontes, Persian Lilies Primroses, Ranunculusses, Star-flower. Spider-wort, Tulips of all sorts Wolf-bane. SO many of these Flowers have not been spoken of before are mentioned next following. Aconitum or Woolfbone Flow●● in April, and they are quickly terwards under ground again, they ●e increased by off sets, which are very apt to grow, and may be taken up and kept out of the ground until about August or September. Corn-flags, they Flower in June or July; they are increased by off-sets, and must be taken up as soon as the Stalks are withered and dry, and kept out of the ground until August or September, and then you may plant several of the Roots together, which are of the best of them, and the rest rejected as little worth. Lilies Flower in june, and are ●easily increased by off-sets, being parted soon after the Stalks are dry; nor need these Roots be often removed, for they will endure in the ground many years. Mortagons if we consider all the ●inds, they Flower from May un●il August, and are increased by off-sets, being taken from the pricipal Root when the Stalks are withered; neither need they to often removed. Persian-Lillies, Flower in Ap●●● or in May at the furthest, and 〈◊〉 increased by off-sets; being tak● up and parted about Midsum●● when the Stalks are dry, and th● planted again in August. Ranunculuses or Crowsfoot, Flower most commonly in Ap●●● or May, and continue long Flower; and are increased by poting the Roots about Mid S●mer, when the Stalks are dry, 〈◊〉 you may take them up; and aft●● wards dry the Roots, and ke●● them in Boxes until December January, and then plant them gain in good rank sandy Ear● parting the Root for increase, a●● setting them a finger length depth in the ground, and w●●● they are almost ready to Flower, than water them often, with Pond-water, or if Spring water: then let it be such as hath stood in the Sun or Air, for two or three days, and the same may be observed for other Flowers: there are some Ranunculuses that are hardy Flowers, and increase by the Roots very fast, neither need they be taken up in several years. Woolfsbane, see Aconitum. Of such Flowers or Pla●●s●s are increased by slips, cuttings and other ways that have not been mentioned before, which may be put in the Flower-Garden. ARbor-vitae, Bastard-Sena, Bladder-nut, Campions, Dogs-teeths, Gilder-rose, Lavender, Margerum, Mastich, Non-such, Ripe tree, Rosemary, pomegranate tree, Sage, Stone crop, Southern-wood, Sumach, Syringe, see Pipe tree, Time, Trefoil. Arbour vitae, or Tree of Life so called, flowereth in May, and may be raised from seed or Layers, Bastard Sena, Flowereth in May, and it may be raised from cuttings, seeds, suckers, etc. Bladder-nut, this Tree or Bush beareth sweet whitish Flowers, and may be increased from Suckers. Campions, Flower in June, and more or less continue Flowering until September, they are increased by slips; which may be taken off in August or September, and planted so that they may receive some Root before the severity of Winter come upon them. Dogs-teeths, (the Flowers so called) do ●ower in March or April, they are raised from seed which is brought over every year from beyond Sea, which seed may be had in London, of several that make a Trade thereof, they may be planted in only good Earth, not too full of Dung in or near August. Gilder-Rose, Flowereth in May, and is most commonly increased by Suckers. Lavender, the Tops of which is very sweet, and for that reason is often planted in Flower Gardens, and is raised from slips, which may be planted in the latter end of March, if the time be seasonable, and the Spring forwardly, or else in April is time enough. Marjerom gentle, or Winter Marjerom, is of a sweet and pleasant scent, and may be increased either from the slips or outting. Mastic, (the Herb I mean) is of 〈◊〉 very pleasant scent, and may be increased by taking slips o● branches. Non-such, most or all of them Flower in July, they are increased by taking young Plants in March from the old Roots, see before. Pipe tree, flowereth from May until September, it is a nice Plant and not to be dealt with by any but the curious Artist. Pomgranate-tree, flowereth in August or September, it is raised from Layers or Suckers; and being planted in good ground under a warm South-wall, and a little descended from Frost in Winter till it become pretty hardy, it may then grow a tall Tree. Rosemary, all the forts flower in May, and it may be increased by setting the slips in the beginning of the Spring, or in the beginning of Autumn. Sage, those sorts which are sweet, or stripped, are usually planted in Flower Gardens, they are increased by setting the slips in April. Stone crop (the Tree so called) Flowereth in August, and may be increased by Layers or cuttings set in March. Southernwood, Flowereth in july, and may be increased by setting the slips in a Pot, or Boxes, i● March, so that they may be housed in Winter. Sumach is raised either from the seed being ripe and good, or else by parting the Root. Syringe, see Pipe tree. Time● is raised and increased by setting the slips or branches in April, being then most apt to take Root. Trefoil that which is called Bean Trefoil Flowereth in May, and may be increased either by Layers or Cuttings. Trefoil, the Tree Trefoil I mean Flowereth in May, and may best of all be raised by setting the slips in Boxes, or Pots in june, whereby they may be kept from the violence of the Winter. The Flowers which were before mentioned are here set down in every month wherein they Flower, and are usually in most splend our, according to the course of nature in this our Climate, yet I deny not but the nature of the ground, season, time of planting, art used in shading, or more exposing them to the Sun, etc. may cause some variation in their Flowering sooner or later. In so many Months as you here find any one Flower mentioned, in those Months are they for the most part in a flourishing state. January. BLack Hellebores, Mizerions, Red Primroses. February. Bulbous violets, Crocusses, of the Spring, Mizerions'. Primroses, March. Anemones or Emanies, Bulbous violets, Cowslips, Crocusses, of the spring, Crown Imperial, Duffodils, Dogs-teeths, Fritillaries, Gillyflowers, Hepartica or Liverworts, Mizerions, Oxlips, Primroses. Wall flowers. April. Aconitum or Wolveses bane, Anemones or Emanies, Auricula's or Bears-ears, Bulbous violets, Cowslips, Crown Imperial, Clyclamen, of the spring, Daffodils, Daisies, Dogs-teeths, Dwarff flower-deluces, Flower-deluces, Fritillaries, Gillyflowers, Hypericum frutex or wood St: Johns-wort. Jacinths or Hyacinth, Lady smocks, Mizerions, Oxlips, Persian lilies, Primroses, Ranunculuses, or Crowsfoot Star-flowers, Stock-gilliflowers, Tulips, Wall flowers, May, Anemones or Emanies, Arbor-vitae, Auricula's or Bears-ears, Bastard Sena, Bell-flowers, or Saterions, Bulbous violets, Colombines, Cowslips, Cyclamen, of the spring, Daffodils that have several flowers on a stalk Dwarff-flower-deluces, Emanies, Flag Flower-deluces, Flower-deluces, Fritillaries, Gigder-roses, Gillyflowers, Hearb-mullen, Hellebore, Honey-suckles, Hyacinth, Jacinths, Lily Aspodils. Molys, Martagons, Nightshade, Oxlips, Paenies, Persian-lillies, Pipe Tree, Primroses, Queen-gilliflowers, Ranunculuses or Crowsfoot Rosemaries, Shrub Nightshade, Snap-dragons, Spanish broom, Spider's wort, Star flower, Stock gillyflowers, Tree Trefoil, Tulips, Wall flowers, Woodbine, June. Aspodils, Campions, Cistus, Corn flag, Corn flower or blue bottles, Cyclamen, Dwarff flower-deluces, Flower-deluces, Flowers of Bristol, Campions, or No●-such. Fraxinella's, Foxgloves, Hellebore, Hearb-mullen, Honey-suckles, Hyarmiths, Jacinths, Larksheels, or Larks spurs Lilies Aspodil, London pride, Lilies, Mortagons, Molys, Nigella or Fennel flower. Nightshade, Pinks, Primroses, Queens Gillyflowers, Red Satin Flower, or French Honey-suckles. Shrub nightshade, Snap Dragons, Spider words, Star flowers, Sweet john's, Sweet Williams, Tulips, Woodbines, July, Carnations or Gillyflowers, Candy tusts, Champions or Non-such, Cistus. Corn flag, Corn-flowers, or Blew-bottles, Double Poppies, Flower-deluces. Flowers of Bristol, or Non-such, Fox-gloves, Fraxinella's, Hyacinths, Jacinths, Jasmines, Indian-cresses, or yellow Larks-heels, Marvile of Peru, Martagons, Non such, Pipe Tree, Primorfes, Queen Gillyflowers. Red Satin flower, or French Honey-suckles. Roses, Snap-dragons, Virgin's bower, Wild and Toad flax, Wood bline, August, Africanes, or French Marigolds, Amaranthus or Flower-gentle, Ca●nations or Gillyflowers, Champions, Corn flowers, or blew-bottles Double Hollihacks or Garden Ma●ows, Flowers of Bristol, Flowers of the Sun, Fox gloves, Holliocks, Jacinths or Hyacinths, Jasmines, Indian Cresses, or yellow Larks-heel. Martagons, Marvile of Peru, Non-such, Pipe Tree Primroses, Shrub mallows, Shrub Spirae or Spiraea frutex. Virgin's bower, Wild and toad Elax. September, Africanes or French Marigolds, Amaranthus, or Flower-gentle, Bind-weed, Campions, Crocusses Autumnal, Double Hollihocks, or Garden-mallows, Flowers of Bristol, or Non-such. Flowers of the Sun, Indian Cresses, or yellow Larks heels, Marvile of Peru, Meadow Saffron, Nerstertions, Pipe Tree, Primroses red Shrub Mallo●● Sun Flowers, October. ●rocuffes Autumnal, darvile of Peru, Meadow Saffron, 〈◊〉 Primroses, November. Black Hellebore, ●●d Primroses, December, Black Hellebore, Primroses red, Many more rare and excellent Flowers might be add●●●● the beautifying of this Garden, but the most part of them being more tender than these even now mentioned, and much skill, care and trouble must be used in ordering the same in this colder Climate, which cannot be expected from ordinary Country people (for whom this was chief intended) it would therefore be of small moment to treat of them, as also of many other ever-greens; but of these we may possibly have occasion to speak something of here after, if opportunity permit. THE GARDENERS DIALLING SHOWING How to draw a Dial on a Grassplot in the middle, or any other part of a Garden, or in a Plantation, or in any Field, or Down; as also in a Flower-Garden, it being drawn as any other Knot for ornament. THis is performed after the same way as the drawing of a Horizontal Dial on any other Plane: And therefore, those who desire to draw, or cut out a Dial on a Grass plot in a Garden, or elsewhere; ought first to cut the grass very short if it be not so, than they must make the place even, either by raising the lower, or else by beating down the highter places in that piece of ground which is intended for that purpose, until it be found exactly plane, as a Plane ought to be for a Horizontal Dial, which you may try after this manner. First take any board of a Foot broad or more, and five or six Foot long at the least, and make one side thereof straight, and then and inch or two from the straight side draw a line parallel thereto; about the middle of which line e●ect a perpendicular (that is draw a line just cross the board) and at the middle or Centre cut a hole in the board to the edge of the parallel line for a Plummet to hang in, it being fastened with a thread to the upper side of the board; then if your Plane seem to be level with the Horizon, you may try it by applying the ●●eight side of your board thereunto, and holding the perpendicular line upright, and a Thread and Plummet in your hand, or it may be fastened on the upper cider of the ●●ard so as the Plummet may ●●ve free play in the hole, and ●●en the thread falleth on the perpendicular line, which way so●●er you turn the board it is then ●●de even with the Horizon, and ●ay be properly called a Horizon●● Plane, as if it were either wood ●o ne. Or else you may try whether it be a Horizontal Plane by a Carpenters, Bricklayers, or Masons levelly if you have such an Instrument ready, or can easily procure one. To draw a Dial on a Grass plot, it being first made Horizontal. dialing diagram Figure 1. Place it between page 76 and 77. First put a string on the Centre or Pinn, and measure six foot thereof, whereat exactly hold your hand with a piece of Chalk or Whiteing in your hand, so that the Green or Garden-plot being dry by turning round you may draw a Circle, which you may with a Knife or other Instrument, cut out as you please; that Citcle being made, you may then draw another Circle about sixteen or eighteen inches without it, between which two Circles (last of all) the Figures at the end of the hour-lines to show the time of the day ought to be cut, if you will have your Dial drawn round. Having thus done; draw your Meridian line, pointing right North and South; which you may do either by a needle that is well touched, or else you may set up a●● rod perpendicular, (which may be done by holding a Thread and Plummet thereto) and where the Shadow is when the Sun is full South, that is, when is is full twelve a Clock, which you may see by another Dial that is truly drawn, I say, where the shadow toucheth at high noon, the● draw the Meridian-line A B (a● you may see Figure the first through the Centre C this line is full North and South, and serveth for the Meridian, the hou●● of twelve and the Substilar: the●● through the point or Centre draw the line D E, crossing the Meridian at right Angles, which may be done thus; Set the point of your Compasses in the Circle, at the end of the Meridian-line, either North or South, and divide the Circumference A D B E into four equal parts, and draw the cross-line East and West D E which serveth for the Six a Clock line, both for morning and evening. Next to find the height of the Style or Cock's elevation, take the latitude of the place, which is here fifty two degrees and twenty minutes, and set it from A to O in the Quadrant A D, and draw the line C O S, then from A raise the perpendicular A S to cut the line S C at S, so shall the Triangle A C S be the exact pattern of your Cock, and presents the Axletree of the world. But to the unlearned (to whom I writ) I will show how they may get the height of the Style, not regarding the line of Cords, because the Radius is in this work too large for most Rules, except you have one made purposely, which is not worth while, seeing i● may be performed otherwise. Take the Radius or Semidiamiter of your Circle, which is ●ere six Foot with a string, (for I suppose you have no Compasses that will reach it, yet such may easily be had) and holding it at the North end of the Meridian measure the length thereof i● the Quadrant, or Arch-line towards D, which divide into six equal parts which are ninety Degrees, and may be numbered, ten, twenty, thirty, forty, fifty, sixty, etc. which if you take five of those parts it is fifty degrees, and then if you divide the next part, which is sixty into ten parts, and take something more than two of those small parts, you have then fifty two ●egreos and twenty minutes the exact height of your stile. And thus if you desire not to have your stile in one piece, all the whole breadth or height, you may have a Square or round piece of Iron or Wood which is strait set upright in the Circle of the North end of the Meridian the just height of the stile, and from the top thereof you may have another piece fitted, which will reach to the Centre of the Dial to make an exact Triangle for the height of the Cock: And let it be so contrived that the slanting piece may be taken away and put there again at pleasure, that so it may neither be troublesome, nor deform the place in the least, if it be in a Garden. Now to find the rest of the hour-lines (for we have yet but the 12 a Clock-line, and the hour of 6 in the morning and evening) you may divide the two quarters of your Circle A E, and A D each into six equal parts, so shall you have in each Quarter or Quadrant, 5 points, by which you may draw the 5 Chord-lines; which in a Garden may be drawn with chalk, and is easily wiped out again, or else you may instead thereof lay so many strings or strained Packthreads; sticking a pin in each, or making a mark where the hour-line is to be drawn; these Chord-lines being laid or drawn I F G H and A, as you may see in Figure the first; then take one half of the Cord-line A, & set it in the line of the stile from C to N, from which point N take the nearest extent unto the Meridian, with this same distance setting one foot in the point A, with the other make a mark on each side of the Meridian in the same Chord-line A, through which point from the Centre draw the hour lines of 1 and 11, so likewise you may take one half of the Chord-line H, and place it in the line of the Style from C to K, from which point K take the shortest extent unto the Meridian; with this distance set on foot in H, and with the other make on each side the Meridian a mark in the same Chord-line, through which you a●o to draw the Hour-lines of 2 and 10, and so you may do in the rest of the Lines, as the Figure will show; and they being drawn in white or red, you may cut them forth in the Grass plot as you please; or if it be in a Flower-garden all the Lines may be of Box, Rosemary, Isop, or any other such like, as will easily be kept in good form; but then a larger extent than we have here mentioned aught to be used. And whereas in Summer the 4 and 5 in the morning, and also 7 and 8 at evening may be necessary, draw the Lines of 4 and 5 at evening beyond the Centre C, and they will show the hours of 4 and 5 in the morning, and likewise the 7 and 8 in the morning for 7 and 8 in the evening. But the operation of this largeness being troublesome, because that ordinary Instruments will not conveniently reach to perform the same; therefore I will show briefly how it may be drawn either on Paper or Pasteboard, and being fixed on the middle or Centre of your Grassplot or Green, or other place where you intent to draw your Dial, the Lines may be extended to what length is required. Therefore having prepared ready a large sheet of Paper that is very thick, as Dutch Paper is, or such as is commonly made use of for the drawing of Leases; or else a piece of smooth Pasteboard, such as may be had at any Card-makers; I say, having ready such a piece of Paper or Pasteboard, in the middle thereof choose your Centre as at C, then draw your Circle, and divide it into four equal parts, and draw your Meridian Line A B, and cross it at right Angles in the middle, with the Line D E for the six a clock line. You may draw your Circle from what Radius you please, as suppose 6 inches or more, which may be wiped out again. Having the hours of 12 and 6, then take the height of your Cock or Style, as I have before shown; or from a Line of Chords accordingly, take off as many Degrees as you would lay down, which here is 52 Degrees and 20 minutes, which set from A to O, and so is the Triangle C O S, the pattern for the Cock's elevation, as is before shown. dialing diagram Figure 2. Place it between page 86 and 87. This being done, divide the two quarters of the Circle ●as before is shown) into six equal parts, so is there in each Quadrant 5 points by which you are to draw the five Cord-lines I F G H and A; then take one half of the Gord-line A, and set it in the line of the Style from C to N, from which point N take the nearest distance unto the Meridian, and with this extent setting one foot in the point A, with the other make a mark on each side of the Meridian in the same Cord line A, through which points draw the Hour-lines of 1 and 11, and so of all the rest, as is already fully enough expressed. Thus having drawn all the Lines parallel, or double, as you may see by Figure the second, you may then easily cut them forth (or plant them with Rosemary, Hyssop, Time, Box, etc. if you cut by the edge of every Line, when you have drawn them to their full length, taking away all except the Lines only, and the narrow space between the parallel Lines, which being left on a Grassplot will be the Hour-lines; and the Figures at the ends of the Hour-lines are handsomely to be cut, and left as here you see at twelve, and all the rest of the turf, or other earth in the insterstaces being taken away about three or four inches deep, and fine gravel put in the place, to fill those low places almost even again, and then being beaten down hard, and the grass on the Lines kept short, it will seem very handsome in a Garden or Plantation: or else if you like not this way, you may then cut out the breadth of the Hour-lines, Circles and Figures only as deep as you see good, and put fine gravel only in those Lines, and being beaten hard it will be well enough. These Ways are much used amongst the Planters in the Indies; but because the Grass is apt to grow fast and overspread the gravel, and thereby ariseth much trouble in keeping them handsome, some have the Lines thereof laid in Wood, or Stone, and then they are easily kept in order for a long time; and so they are being planted with Box, small Myrtle, Cypress, etc. dialing diagram Figure 3. Place it before page 91. To draw another Dial on an Horizontal Plane. When you have found your Plane, or Green whereon you desire to have your Dial drawn, to be level with the Horizon; then draw the Meridian Line, and in this Line make choice of a Centre, as at C, through which point C draw the Line D E, crossing the Meridian at right Angles; which Line is for six a clock in the morning and evening. Then draw the height of the Style, or cock of the Dial according to your Radius to be 52 degrees and 20 minutes, making th● Angle S C A, then at the North● end of the Meridian-line draw another Line, as F G crossing th● Meridian at right Angles; this Line is called the Touch-line; o● Line of contingence. Then set one foot of your Compasses in the foot A, and with the other take the nearest extent unto the Line S C, or the Style, with this distance turning your Compasses about with one foot still in the point A, with the other make a mark in the meridian, as at I, which shall be the Centre of the Equinoctial, upon which describe the Equinoctial Circle A D B E, with this same distance setting one foot in the point A, make a mark at F on the one side of the Meridian, and another at G on the other side thereof, both which ought to be made ● the Line of contingence, by ●hich two points, and the Cen●●r C, you may draw the Hour●●nes of 3 and 9 This same distance of your Compasses being kept with one ●ot still in the Genter A, with the other make the marks K L in the Equinoctial Circle. Then ●aying your rule upon the Centre ● of the Equinoctial, and upon those two last divisions in the Circle thereof where the rule shall touch the Line of contingence, there mark it as at H and P, by which points and the Centre C, you may draw the Hour-lines of 10 and 11, the like may you do on the other side of the Meridian, so have you six of your Hour-lines drawn. And now for the drawing o● your 4 and 5, and also 7 and 8 ● Clock-lines, it is possible your Touch-line, or Line of contingence may outrun your Plane, as you may see by Figure the third, we will therefore show how you may on a Grass plot or elsewhere draw those Lines with Chalk, o● by the use of a Thread, or any small Line you may do it, not out-running the compass of the Dial's As thus, From the intersection of the hours of 9 and 3 with the Touch-line draw the Line F D (as you may see Figure 4th) and G E parallel to the Meridian A B, until they cut the Line of East and West in the points D and E, the● draw the Lines A D and A E, this being done, set one foot of your Compasses in the point H, ●●● with the other take the nearest ●●●ent unto the Line A E, this ●●●tance being kept, six one foot 〈◊〉 the Line G E, so as the other ●●●y but touch the Line A E at the 〈◊〉 O, by which and the Centre 〈◊〉 you may draw the 7 a clock ●●●our-line: in like manner may 〈◊〉 place one foot in the point P, 〈◊〉 with the other take the short●●●extent unto the Line A E, with ●●●is distant fixing one foot in the ●●●ne G E, so as the other may but ●●●●ly touch the Line A E, so shall ●●●e fixed point rest n the foot Q. ●●●y which and the Centre C you ●●●ay draw the 8 a clock hour line, ●●●e like may be done on the other ●●●de or the Meridian; or you may ●●●y these distances thus formed, ●●●rick out the li●e on the other side ●●●of the Meridian. And so by dividing but o●● eitht part of the Equinct●● Circle into 3 equal parts, you m●● draw your whole Dial. What is here spoken concerning the hours, the like is to be understood in drawing the halfhour● lines and quarters, if it be required; or else by dividing th● spaces between the hour-lines i● to halfs, and those halfs again being divided equally, you have th●● the half, and quarter of an ho●● exact enough. dialing diagram Figure 4. Place it between page 94 and 95. An Explanation of all such words as are made use of herein; which to some may seem difficult. ANgle, Is the meeting of two Lines in any sort, so as they make both make not one Line, as you may see Figure the first; and ●o of all the rest ●n in ordre. 1 2. Centre, Is a point, or prick 〈◊〉 the middle of a Line, or circled, etc. being the Centre to ●●at Circle. 2 3. Circle, o● circumference, i● a plain Figur● drawn exactly round; of Cricle● there are 6 whereof the Sphere i● composed. 3 4. Diameter, i● is a right Lin● drawn through the Centre of a●● Circle, dividing the whole Circ●● into two equ●● parts. 4 5. Equinoctial, ● Equinoctial-C●●cle, is a Circle that crosses th● Angles, and divideth the Sphex into two equal parts. 5 6. Hoizon, is the farthest distance that the eye can see, or the bounds of sight; or it is a Circle dividing the superior Hemisphere from the inferior. Horizontal is any thing that lieth level with the Horizon. 6 7. Intersection is a cutting off; as where one line cutteth another, it is called the place of Interfection. 7 8. Meridian. is a great Circle passing through the Poles of the world, right over our heads, and is so called because when the Sun cometh thereto it is then high noon, or ●● a clock, at what time or in what place of the world soever. 8 9 Parallel-Line, is a str●ight Line. 9 10. Parallel-lines or right lined Parallels are two right lines equi-distant one from the other. 10 11. A Circular-parallel, is a Circle drawn either within or without another Circle upon the same Centre. 11 12. Perpendicular, is a Line raised from, or let fall upon another Line making equal Angles on both sides. 12 13. Quadrant, is the fourth part of a Circle, or 90 degrees. 13 14. Semicircle, Is 180 Degrees, or his one half of a Circle drawn upon the Diameter, being contained above the Diameter. 14 15. Semi-diameter, is half of the Diameter, and is contained betwixt the Centre and the one side of the Circle. 15 16. Style, is the latitude of the place we are in, as you may see by the triangle Figure 16th. 16 Books newly Printed for William Crook at the Green Dragon without Temple-Barr. 1. PPraxis Curiae Admiralitat●● Anglia Auhore Fransc. Clerk, printed 1667. in Octo. price 1 s. 2. Hug. Grotli Baptizatorum Puerorum Institutio alternis; interrogationibus & responsionibus, Cui adjicitur Graeca ejusdem Metaphrasis Ch. Wase, etc. Quibus accessic Praxis in Graecam Metaphras● per B. 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