ARTIFICIAL Embellishments. OR ARTS BEST DIRECTIONS How to Preserve Beauty or Procure it. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉, 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉. Anacr. OXFORD, Printed by William Hall, Ann. D. 1665. To The HONOURABLE And Truly Virtuous A. E. MADAM, THat Trifles should be made Presents to persons of quality, or that these worthless lines, should court the Eye of Honour, are faults that scarce any will pardon but Your Ladyship, whose Goodness is as Great as your Beauty is Glorious. 'Twas That animated my presumption in presenting this piece to Your Honour: for being so much divine in every thing else, You must be so in Goodness, and accept a Mite from him, who is unable to make a more stately offering. The design Lady of the Book is not to make any addition to Your spotless features, but to borrow that from You which it promiseth to others Beauty and Splendour. Madam, Your Honour's Most Humble Servant M. S. To the Ladies. DEformity (fairest Ladies) is a single name, yet a complicated misery; for a young Algebraist in this only word, knows how to read a whole Iliad of evils. Poet's fancy the creature to be hatched in Hell; neither do they greatly injure it, forasmuch as it brings with it sufficient matter for a whole Hell of misery to those, whose darkened souls are clouded with its frightful adumbrations: and as it comes from thence, so would it willingly thither again, as appears from its shunning the light, and only solacing itself in dusky solitudes. For those whose bodies are dismissed natures press with some erratas, and have not the royal stamp of Beauty to make them currant coin for humane society, make choice of obscurity; judging death less insufferable, than that ignominy which too often attends deformity. It is a disease usually looked upon as infectious, and hath one symptom of dangerous consequence, it breeds obstructions, and that chief to Lady's preferment; since none save Grooms or Oastlers think those worth their courtship, who are rusted over with ill-inticing looks. Now to quit you Ladies from the loathsome embraces of this hideous Hag, (which might there be so many Furies in Hell, would make a fourth) I have published these Cosmeticks; so Beautifying, that those who use them shall Diana it in company, and with a radiant lustre outshine their thick-skinned companions, as so many browner Nymphs. Though you may look so pallidly sad, that you would be thought to be dropping in your Graves; and though your skins be so devoid of colour, that they might be taken for your winding sheets; yet these Recipes will give you such a rosy cheerfulness, as if you had new begun your resurrection. They are the handsome Ladies Panacaea, of such efficacy that they will teach you creatures of mortality to retrace the steps of youth, and transform the wrinkled hide of Hecuba into the tender skin of a tempting Helena. Enchase but your cheeks Ladies, with some of our auxiliary unguents, and ye shall see, that exact complexions make but foils to advance your features: and conceited beauties cravened with their own defects shall crouch in your presence, and force you almost to be proud; while having no parts to value, they shall dispond themselves. When once your artificial roses display themselves, others shall seem pale, as if they envied your tempting perfectious; and their natural vermilion shall only serve them to blush that their features are outvied by yours. Other Ladies in your company shall look like brown-bread sippets in a dish of snowy cream, or if you will, like blubbered juggs in a cupboard of Venice glasses, or earthen Chamber pots in a Goldsmith's shop. If you glory in Captives, and desire by a sparkling splendour to fire Platonic Amorettoes out of their lawless liberty, borrow but lustre from these Artificial Smegmaticks, and you shall find none composed of a metal so cold and Saturnine, that can Salamander-like resist your actuating flames: for whiles those Madams who slight the use of these helps, shall have nothing to heighten affection but the Antiperistasis of a December look, and Phlegmatic complexion, your April and Sanguine face shall infuse heat into the cold misogynist, and make the stoutest heart a sacrifice to love and altar too. If any remain uncaptivated, it shall only be those leaden hearted cowards, who dare not approach your inflaming presence for fear of melting, or those emerited Soldiers of Venus, whose frigid constitutions banish all youthful fires, out of a timorousness of being calcined. Nay the Lilies and Roses of your cheeks shall be the Old man's true Anacampserote, such drugs that shall make him think of former joys. But perhaps a zealous Somebody censures you for evil hearts because you aim at having good faces; and would like you the worse, should you once look so well. Yet refuse not enlightened, yea enlivened eyes, but with Jonathan taste a little honey though a furious Saul forbids it. Be not banished company for want of Beauty, when Art affords an innocent supply; nor live a Martyr to that narrow conscience, which forbids the use of oil to make a cheerful countenance. Borrow our ruddy vermilion, and become purple-plusht roses to be gathered by the hand of some captivated Hero, lest in the greensickness livery of your own swarthy complexions, you be taken for thistles and crapt by Asses. THE INDEX. The Prooeme. PART. I. Of the whole Body and Beautifying thereof. 5. Cap. 1. How Women with Child are to order themselves that they may be delivered of fair and handsome Children. Pag. 7 Cap. 2. What course of life may probably be the best either to procure Beauty or preserve it. Pag. 16 Cap. 3. External means to gain a good Complexion. Pag. 30 Cap. 4. How to beautify a white and pallid complexion. Pag. 39 Cap. 5. To smooth a rough and uneven Skin. Pag. 41 Cap. 6. How to cleans the sweaty and sluttish Complexion. Pag. 42 Cap. 7. How to repair the beauty of an itchy or scabby skin, Pag. 46 Cap. 8. To adorn the scurffie and mealy Complexion. Pag. 51 Cap. 9 How to polish the Skin when it is disfigured with Scars, or marks of the Small Pox. Pag. 54 Cap. 10. How to remove spots in what part of the body soever. Pag. 58 Cap. 11. To reduce the body that is too fat to a mean and handsome proportion. Pag. 63 Cap. 12. To make the body or any part thereof plump and fat, that was before too lean. Pag. 65 PART. II. Of the Head, Neck, and Breasts, 70 Cap. 1. To cure Redness and fiery Pimples in the Face. Pag. 71 Cap. 2. How to free the face from freckles. Pag. 82 Cap. 3. To whiten a tanned visage and to keep the face from Sunburn. Pag. 83 Cap. 4. To remove running Tetters, or spreading Pustules. Pag. 85 Cap. 5. How to help the Complexion when it is marred with blue and congealed blood, or black and blue, proceeding from a stroke or bruise. Pag. 87 Cap. 6. To smooth the face disfigured with wrinkles. Pag. 89 Cap. 7. How to cure chaps in the Face. Pag. 91 Cap. 8. Remedies for the Face when it is Burnt or Scalded. Pag. 92 Cap. 9 To beautify the Face howsoever disfigured. Pag. 94 Cap. 10 How to fasten the Hair, and keep it from falling off. Pag. 102 Cap. 11. Remedies for the want of hair, how to make it grow on any bald place, or there where it never came before. Pag. 104 Cap. 12. How to take away hair and keep it from growing again. Pag. 107 Cap. 13. How to make the hair Curl. Pag. 109 Cap. 14. To make the Hair Lank and flag. Pag. 112 Cap. 15. To lengthen the Hair. Pag. 113 Cap. 16. To soften the Hair when too harsh and stiff. Pag. 115 Cap. 17. Remedies for the Hair when it splits. Pag. 117 Cap. 18. To make the hair of what colour you please. Pag. 119 Cap. 19 How to cleanse the hair of scurf and dandruff. Pag. 123 Cap. 20. How to beautify the forehead. Pag. 125 Cap. 21. How to beautify and adorn the brows. Pag. 127 Cap. 22. Remedies for Inflammation, Bloodshot, or Spots in the Eyes, and yellowness of the Eyelids. Pag. 130 Cap. 23. To alter the ill colour of the eyes and how to make them bigger or less. Pag. 135 Cap. 24. To make the Lips ruddy, Pag. 135 Cap. 25. How to smooth the Lips when they are rough and chapped. Pag. 137 Cap. 26. Remedies for such vices as are incident to the Nose. Pag. 140 Cap. 27. How to fasten cleanse, and preserve the Teeth. Pag. 142 Cap. 28. To Sweeten the Breath. Pag. 145 Cap. 29. How to beautify the Neck. Pag. 148 Cap. 30. How to keep the Breasts from growing too big, and to make them plump and round. Pag. 151 Cap. 31. Remedies for Inflammations or Hardness of the Breasts, and chaps in the Nipples. Pag. 153 PART. III. How to Beautify the Arms, Hands Legs and Feet. 157 Cap. 1. To remedy sweeting of the Armpits, and other inconveniences proceeding thence. Pag. 158 Cap. 2. For Chaps and Warts in the Arms or Hands. Pag. 160 Cap. 3 How to make the Hands fair and white, and to lessen the Veins when they appear too big. Pag. 162 Cap. 4. For the Hands when they are swollen and look red or blew with cold. Pag. 166 Cap. 5. Remedies for those vices which are incident to the nails. Pag. 168 Cap. 6. Remedies for the galling, fretting and sweeting of the feet. Cap. 7. Remedies whereby to be freed from Kibes and Corns. Pag. 172 PART. FOUR Scents and Perfumes fitted for several occasions. Cap. 1. Perfumed Pomanders for Bracelets. Pag. 176 Cap. 2. Powders for the Hair, Linen, and Sweet Bags. Artificial EMBELLISHMENTS. The Prooeme. THE Soul that better part of Man, when it becomes Tenant to the Body, should have it not a Prison but a Palace, a Lodging, whose structure and superficial Ornaments might make its Pilgrimage pleasant, and invite its stay; not a Dungeon, a Cyprian Ceramo to stifle it with its loathsome composure, or with its deformed Frontispiece to fright it to a separation. It would be too much to the discredit of our Nobler part, should we be as Mountains graved with golden Ore, which clouded with barren dust, and sterile sands, usually seem as poor without as they are rich within. Surely diamond souls inchas'd with Noble functions, deserué a crystal case, and nature itself cloaths Oriental Jewels in mother of Pearl. The crooked body may perhaps yield service, but never gain repute to a sprightly mind: and sad was the fortune of Socrates whose Royal Soul was condemned to the Prison of a crooked or misshapen body: More happy Fortune had the Roman Lucretia, whose braver Spirit, had for its lodging a Whitehall, suitable to its Grandeur, I mean her body, so fair in features, that her Companions, some called her, others believed her Venus in the disguise of Lucretia, or Lucretia copied out from Venus. Should we be as stately clothed as Ulpian was, when Alexander Severus wrapped him in his Imperial Robes, we would neither think ourselves too gaudy, nor our Bodies clothed in too rich apparel: and should we be contented with any tattered, deformed Body, which should be neat apparel to the soul, and which it either finds or else would make so? For could our Soul always have a supply of materials suiting its active power, none should ever be deformed, but too often encountering disobedient matter, which repels its plastic beams, it frequently retreats itself, and in a retired solitude seems to lament that Art comes not Auxiliary to its succour. In pity to such imprisoned souls, Art unlocks its Magazeen of Medicines, endeavouring to unite all parts of the Body in charming Concord's of alluring features, and give each Member such a pleasing splendour, that Native Beauties seem but dull and dying shadows, to set forth their more rich and lively Colours. But all Bodies not being equally capacitated for its impressions, it usually employs its skill about the Female Sex; whose soft and pliant earth, Nature works with a more careful hand, to make it a thriving soil for the tender plant of Beauty; so that it slights Men, and casts them by, as Canvace too course and rough to draw thereon the taking lineaments of a clear and smooth-faced Venus. Ye Ladies than are the Dearelings that Art most respects, and for whose sake are composed such Aromatic unguents, such beautifying oils and essences, that would you but accept their proffered assistance, there is none of you but might equalise a Helen: here only would be the difference, that a Paris came from Troy to Ravish her, but multitudes would make longer journeys to Admire you. This subsequent Treatise, (solely composed Ladies for your concernment) is abundantly stored with such Artificial Embellishments: and that it might not itself, be deficient in what it presents to you, Beauty; it is regularly methodised into a quaternion of parts. The First whereof treats of Embellishing the Body in general; the Next of the Head, neck and breast; the Third of the Hands, Arms, Legs and Feet; and the Last supplies you with Sents, Perfumes and Powders, fitted for the exigencies of any emergent occasion. Of each of these in Order. Artificial Embellishments. PART. I. Of the whole Body, and the beautifying thereof. THE Body, that weak and moving mansion of mortality, is exposed to the treacherous undermine of so many Sicknesses and Distempers, that its own frailty seems Petitioner for some artificial Enamel, which might be a fixation to Nature's inconstancy, and a help to its variating infirmities. For he that narrowly observes that fading house of distempered clay, will soon find that it aemulats the Moon in mutability; that though to day it be varnished with a purple and lively blush, to morrow it will be so white washed with a meager paleness, as if Death had took it to hire, and made it a whited Sepulchre; that though to day it be so smooth and plain, that Venus herself might be tempted to take her Recreation there; to morrow it will be so rough-cast with a nasty Elephantiasis, that Cupid can scarce walk there without being over shoes. Now to sublimate Nature beyond the reach of Sickness, to a lasting and aetherial Pulcritude, and by cosmetick Antidotes to fortify it with an incapacity of being supprised by any feature-fretting malady, would be a business should puzzle not only a whole Elaboratory of Chemists, but their Archaeus too; although of the privy Council to Nature, and confident to her recluded privacies. But to make that Lure of Love, Beauty, of a more than ordinary lustre; to fix the Complexion of the Body so, that it be not too frequent in its variation; or to keep the fair and damask skin from being too much sullied with Deformities filthy fingers, is a task not transcending the sphere of a modest undertaking activity. For it is that, which hath with happy success been often effected, by a convenient regulating the fantasy, or imagination of the Mother, whilst she is with Child; by using food of quick concoction, and easy nourishment; by moderate and frequent exercise; by the application of those things which adorn the body with an enamouring and lively colour; by taking away those which may vitiate the features, as swarthiness of the Complexion, scars and spots of the Skin, nasty sweat, etc. by keeping the body and every member thereof, that it be neither too gross or too lean, and the like: Concerning all which, we intent to give some Directions in the following Chapters of this First Part. CHAP. I. How Women with Child are to order themselves that they may be delivered of fair and handsome Children. INtending to furnish you (lovely Ladies) with such Prescriptions as most nearly concern the beautifying of the Body; it will be requisite to begin with some special and singular means, how to help the comely formation, of the tender Embryo, while it is yet in Nature's Elaboratory, the Womb; that so it may be educed from the confused Chaos of the lesser world, not a misshapen or monstrous lump, but a sparkling luminary, and a piece that Nature may take for a pattern, when she attempts the composure of a person she intends to boast of. Amongst those several things which tend to this exact completing of the Foetus, there is nothing more signally concurs than the imagination of the breeding Mother. This is that busy Architectrix of the brain, which contrives such machinations, and acts such miracles, that it is a miracle almost to find any that believe them. For, let but the great-bellied Mother exercise moderately, and use ordinary wholesome, diet, there will need nothing more to have Children so fair, that you may by their own splendour be lighted to view their perfections; then the regular ordering of the fancy: which is superintendent to the growing infant, and the Mother's active emissary, that with all obsequiousness executes her wishes on the tender Babe in the Womb. For finding the soft and pliant Faetus pinioned in a membranious mantle, and lying helplessly drowsy in Nature's cradle, it freely without resistance makes impression as the Mother directs it. So that she by the help of this invisible Agent usually works & adorns the Infant with those features which her mind most runs upon, and she herself affects. He that considers the various relations that several Authors make of the Fantasies imperious Tyranny over the growing Embryo, will with small reluctancy admit its plastics power in a comely composure. Helmont makes relation of a Tailor's Wife, who being big with Child, and seeing before her doors a duel betwixt two Soldiers, one whereof lost his hand in the combat; fell presently (being frighted with the sight) into labour, and was delivered of a Daughter with one hand, the other arm bleeding, and having the hand cut off at the same place with the maimed Soldier. The same Author gives us another story altogether as strange, of a Merchants Wise at Antwerp, and a familiar acquaintance of his, who some weeks before the time of her Delivery, hearing that there were thirteen condemned persons to be beheaded, was desirous to see them executed, and to that purpose gets to a friends house in the Marketplace, where the windows looked full out upon the Scaffolds; but scarce had she seen the first suffer, when she cried out for a Midwife, and was delivered of a lovely Boy, that had his head newly parted from his shoulders. Other Writers also give us the like stories. Gassendus in his Philosophy, tells us of one great with Child, that being set upon by a company of bloody Villains, and stabbed in several parts of her body, suddenly after died, and the Child that was cut out of her Womb, had so many blue spots like broises in his body, as the Mother had stabbs, and in the very same parts, wherein she was wounded. Munster likewise makes mention of a Woman with Child, that standing whispering with another, and a third coming softly behind, and knocking their foreheads together, was soon after delivered of Twins, with their foreheads joined together. Besides all this, there are yet more stupendious actions, which may be reckoned as the products of a working Fancy, That Alcippe (in Pliny) should be delivered of an Elephant: that a Woman in Aristotle, should be Mother to a Child with a Ramshead: or, that Plutarcks' Matron, expecting a Son, should be saluted with an ugly Centaur, are effects which the most rational heads generally refer to the imagination. Now if Fancy or the Imaginative power can transpose the parts of the Foetus and make it a monster; if it can turn executioner, and set the little Infant's soul free from the prison of its body, while its body is still prisoner to the womb; why may it not as well act the Painter, and have the disposing of Nature's colours, to draw as it pleaseth, ravishing, or else less enticing features? Certainly, if we consider what Galen relates of a woman who brought forth a Son not like the Father, who was much deformed, but resembling a comely picture hanging in her Chamber, whereon he wished her to think earnestly when she embraced her Husband: Or if we call to mind how some by often looking on a Blackamoors picture, have been delivered of a Child clouded with Nature's sooty mask, and wrapped in the sable mantle of a swarthy skin; we cannot but be convinced, that the Infant comes into the world apparelled with those features, which the Fancy, that commanding Empress of the Mother's brain, dispenses from her own wardrobe. So that if ye desire (Ladies) to have Children, whose beauty shall eclipse all other objects, and be an attracting magnet to neighbourring eyes, propose to your Fancies such patterns as may excite both your own, and others admiration; whether it be some person who monopolizes perfections, and is the royal exchequer of unparallelled beauty, or some lively pencilled picture of a most absolute proportion of parts, temper of colours, and vivacity of aspect. For some such exquisite pattern being once made choice of, and in time of conception, or else of being with child, often thought upon and beheld with intenseness, will by little and little imprint in the mind a noble Idea of the same perfections, which the active Fancy soon apprehends as a proposed pattern, to work thereby a parallel piece; and therefore with an obsequious celerity informs the appetite, which immediately summons the subtle humours and the most spirituous parts of the blood, as inferior officers, and they receive an impression of this Idea, which they carry in triumph through all the coasts of the microcosm, till they arrive at those parts whereto they were designed by the direction of their Empress' Fancy: Who thinking no repository too secure for so fair a species, commands those agile emissaries to treasure it up in the seed, which is the most new and durable edifice in all its dominions, and likely to last when all the rest shall lie buried in the dust of their final ruins, Or if she be entrusted with this Idea, in the time of the Mother's being great, she immediately sends those active agents with it to the Womb, that mint of the microcosm, to have it stamped by the Plastic faculty on the growing Foetus, that so it may be in a capacity to act its princely part on the theatre of the world, where it may attract the eyes of future admirers, and with a radiant lustre vie with its Prototype. But some of you perhaps may be so scrupulous as to inquire, that seeing the Fancy is merely a cognoscitive faculty, and Women usually fix their thoughts on several and various objects during the times of Conception and Gravidation; how it comes to pass that we find not the Infant subject to more numerous mutations, according to the variety of impressions made by sundry species on the imagination? The Reply to this will be easy, if we consider, that if the matter were more seriously pondered, we should not find the Imagination so seldom active as generally is supposed: for it is very probable that the resemblance of every child, whether with the father, mother or any other person, hath some near dependence on some operation or other of the mother's fantasy; according as her mind was with more intenseness fixed upon such or such a party. But yet again it is not every act of the fantasy, which is able to affect the formative power residing in the womb; but only that which is strong, and attended with the powerful commotion of the spirits and humours in the body. So that there being not many acts of the fantasy concomitated with the energy of such commotions, 'tis no wonder that infants signally affected with the mother's fantasy are so few. Those fantasies only induce such agitations of the humours & spirits as are requisite to affect the Foetus, which are followed by violent passions of a surprising fear or an earnest & longing desire: for these are the most turbulent and impetuous passions that the mind is subject to; which exciting the tenuious humours and spirits in all parts of the body, cause both in the mother and infant remarkable alterations. Take but an instance or two of the effects of both these unruly passions. Baptista Porta in his natural magic, tells us of a woman who amorously affecting a Marble statue, dead indeed in itself, but for her lust too lively, by frequent looking on it, and continual keeping of it in her mind, brought forth a son plump, pale, of a glittering colour and in every thing representing the features of the too much admired marble. Ficinus reports for a truth of a woman that she brought forth a daughter which had a well proportioned body, but for a head only two Scallop-shels joined to the shoulders, which she opened at pleasure to receive her meat and lived so eleven years; and that which occasioned the production of this monster, was, as he says, the mother's longing for Scallops whilst she was with child and not being able after great industry to get any to satisfy her impatient desires. So Delrio in his magical disquisitions, gives us a relation of a noble Lady that was nurse to a very beautiful prince than Dolphin of France, whom she loved so entirely that she caused his effigies to be drawn, and carried it about with her, scarce enduring it out of her sight; whereon it happened that she became mother to a child so like the young Prince, that the generality of people knew no other distinction save that of their . And as for the passion of fear, Levinus Lemnius hath the history of an unhappy wag that supprising a great bellied woman with the sight of a boys picture with a monstrous great head, caused her to bring forth a child of the same misshapen magnitude. These instances are sufficient to demonstrate that the fancy when attended with either of those passions, hath power to alter the confirmation and complexion of the yielding foetus; and that to have handsome and beautiful children there is little else required, than the avoiding all monstrous objects and stories which may distract the fancy; and in their stead, the proposing of some amiable object, from whence the fantasy affecting it with a passionate tenderness, may copy out an Idea of perfect beauty to communicate to the plastic faculty; whose chiefest care is to erect a stately structure out of the rude mass that lies so confused within the womb. This is the opinion of several ancient and excellent Physicians as Hippocrat. in his book of Superfoetation. Galen in the 14. cap. of his book concerning Theriacle to Piso. And Laurentius in his anatomical Contraversies. l. 8. q. 10. of Wierus. Codronchus. But enough of these. I hasten in the next chapter to give directions what course of life is requisite that those lead, who would purchase that they have not, or else preserve that beauty they have already. CHAP. II. What course of life may probably be the best either to procure Beauty or preserve it. COurse of life here mentioned, is intended as a general notion, comprehending all those things which Physicians usually term res non naturales: so that it almost takes in whatsoever may cause a sensible alteration in the body, as the external air, sleeping and watching, repose or exercise, evacuation or retention of the excrements, passions or perturbations of the mind, and lastly meats or drinks whether medicinal or alimentary. For each of these as we shall briefly show do signally affect both body and beauty too. First then the air is that liquid ocean, wherein each Pilgrim of us all must traffic if we intent to make thriving husbands, or gain the least addition to the too soon wasted number of our fleeting days: It is our more gentle Aeolus, that breathes forth prosperous gales into the expanded lobes of our lungs, to land us safely at the silver top't Alps of hoary hairs. But seldom is it that it keeps such an evenness in in its blasts, as not to cause some sensible variation, in our beauty that Loadstone of desire: For it variously affects the body both within and without. Inwardly, as it is sucked into the lungs, those panting bellows, so naturally contrived to keep the bosie furnace of the heart boiling; than it communicates its qualities to the very fountain of life; next to the blood, and so universally to the whole body. Outwardly, as it beats continually upon the superficial skin, and causes roughness, chaps and sundry other accidents according to its several constitution. So that great care is to be taken to preserve the body from the impressions of an ill disposed air, whether too moist, or too dry, too hot or too cold. For an air too moist will soon wash off natures paint; and if ladies live too long in fogs, it is the ready way to stain their damask skins. The lilies and roses of the cheeks will fade rather than flourish if too much watered: and Venus herself though borne in Neptune's watery palace would never be nursed there, fearing the tender plants of beauty would never thrive in that liquid soil. Wherefore I can scarce approve the practice of some Ladies, who to allay the petty exorbitancy of a ruddy colour, in the evenings wherein damp mists and dews fall, expose their naked breasts and faces to Cynthia's moistening rays, as if the moon (because pale herself) would make them so; or her spitting in the face were to scour it. Certainly beauty never consents that Laundress should whiten her livery, who uses no other soap than her own foggy excrements. Such practices, I confess, since they occasion rheums, catarrhs, and distillations may make the face white or pallid but never fair or handsome. So on the contrary an air too dry doth so wrinkle and chap the skin our native shirt, that nature or art can scarce ever work it with a beautiful embroidery. Next a bleak and piercing air is a mortal enemy to a lovely complexion; it makes the skin rough, constipates the pores and hinders the exhalation of the excrements, and these lying betwixt the skin and the flesh do exceedingly vitiate the complexion, making it livid and dull. So that those Ladies are to be reproved that go with their breasts bare and naked in the midst of frost and snow. Those swelling mounts where Cupid makes his nest, should have a warmer covering than a snowy fleece, for fear those milky fountains may be curdled with a chilly cold, and he forced to shift for fairer lodgings. Neither is the contrary extreme of heat less prejudicial to a fair and tender skin; it tempts the blood to the external parts, and there tanns it into a wainscot hue: Be careful Ladies then, not to expose your beauty to a parching heat, for fear you soon bewail your rash attempt in the sable veil of a sooty skin. Therefore if it be in your power to choose an air to better your complexions, make choice of a seat somewhat raised that it be not exposed to the inconveniences of fogs and mists, which too frequently pester the lower habitations; let it be sheltered round with pleasant woods and groves which may fence you from the blue impressions of a pinching Boreas, and in the Summer secure you that Sol with his amorous beams shall not kiss your beauty away. But in this election of air's regard is to be had to the constitution of the person; for those whose cheeks are tinctured with a deeper blush, aught to choose a cooler; and those whose lily features seem wan and pallid, a hotter place; yet with this caution, that they expose themselves to no heat or cold but what is moderate; for extremity of cold too violently repels the blood inward and excess of heat draws it too much out. In the next place moderation either in sleeping or waking conduces much to the preservation of a comely face. Excessive sleep makes the body dull and heavy, the colour pale, swarthy and livid; for it is easy to● know Morpheus' sluggish votaries by those sullied impressions his leaden heels leave in their fleshy robes. So on the other side watching over much spends the spirits, exceedingly dries the moisture of the body; and if you make it a frequent custom to extend it to unusual periods, it will scarce leave ye, Ladies, blood enough to crimson your cheeks with a vermilion blush for the loss of your beauty. What hath been said of sleeping and watching may rationally be interpreted of repose and exercise: for repose is but a waking sleep and exercise a more active watching. If any love their ease too much they soon contract the rust of idleness, which will surely ironmould the finest skin; and they that exercise immoderately; quickly were out beauties silken livery; and when once ye come Ladies to wear deformities home spun garments, you are quite broke for beauties; for none will think you worth the looking after, and your whole stock of features will hardly procure any to lend you an eye. How much evacuation or retention of the excrements either promote or hinder a good complexion, you will easily imagine if you consider that the reaking entrails are the bodies sink, which, if it be not duly cleansed and scoured, affects the face with such noisome exhalations that the squeamish Queen of love will never be won upon to make it her court of residence. The perturbations and unruly possions of the mind do offer greater violence to the features than any thing else; their impetuous motions raise an earthquake in the lesser world which ruins the stately structure of Cupid's palace. Grief is the moth of Beauty, it frets out the characters of nature's fairest Orthography; wearing off those ruddy and carnation flourishes which her skilful pencil drew, it makes the face a discolourable blank; and renders those who over much indulge it, so wannish and pale, that they seem but walking shrouds to carry themselves to their own shady sepulchres. Anger is beauty's burning fever, which fieres the furnace of the heart with too scorching flames that bake the exterior features into a brownbread swarthiness: and it would be strange, should such course far ever feast spectators eyes. Fear congeals the blood and baths the body in a chilly sweat, which often enlivens the hair to an active though frightful erection, but never clears the skin: nay it does your beauty more mischief then if you should intoxicate yourselves with Circe's bewitching potion: for the worst this could do, would be to make ye handsome beasts; but fear causes a more frightful metamorphosis and makes ye foul deformed women. Lastly melancholy is a sullen humoursome spirit that raises tempests in the very centre of the body; which overcloud the face with grief, and wrinkle the forehead before Thirty: it makes that Lady whom it once overcomes, to be out of love with the whole world and beauty to be out of love with her: while she thinks herself weary of other men's eyes, other men finding little worth their sight, are as weary of viewing her: they soon perceive that beauty transplanting her maiden lilies and ruddy roses to some more courted Elysium; intends that face shall lie fallow, which melancholy frowns wrinkle into uneven furrows. What hath thus particularly been said of some perturbations of the mind, may be understood of all in general; so that all passions whatever, as they are usually called the Souls burning fever, because they make it ferment itself into a pernicious excess; so may they fitly be named the Beauties wasting consumption, since they leave no marks of that excellent comeliness, which useth to work astonishment in all beholders, but make the former good looks give place to a sallow complexion. Lastly, Meats and Drinks have a controlling power over the features, and proportionable lineaments of a taking face, and give great occasions towards the making or marring a beauty: For by eating and drinking, the humours, and more solid parts of the body, which are in a successive emanation, are nourished and kept in continual repair. Certainly, if we may believe Physicians, the moderate use of healthful diet corroborates the innate heat, makes the external members well coloured, and lively to perform those actions, for which Nature hath intended them. On the contrary, an intemperate life, abandoned indifferently to all sorts of meats, without distinction either of time or measure, stifles the internal heat, breeds corrupted blood, from whence proceed obstructions of the more noble parts, a vitiated mass of malignant humours, which cause a discoloured, pale and tawny visage, stinking breath, rotten teeth, running eyes, and infinite other inconveniencies: Wherefore, let those that would be beauties favourites, not study too much kitchen Philosophy, nor busy their thoughts about too stately furnishing their sumptuous Tables, let them have a care of making too bold with Wine; if Bacchus set the face with his fiery carbuncles, and pitch his standard there, beauties vermilion Heraldry will soon be expunged. Yet, on the other side, I would not have any person bring herself down to the lowest Gamut of abstinence, for this will spoil the harmony of a well tuned face, as much as if the guts were screwed up to an E●la of intemperance. There is but little difference in either extreme; excessive gluttony makes a Lady such a mountain of greasy mummy, that she needs no other pomatum for her bloated checks, than the nasty sweat that dribbles from her brow: And unusual abstinence makes the body like a thin thatched Tenement, that hath outstood the hopes of having fairer guests than grunting Swine; the skin represents some white earth plastering, and the bones so many uneven-laid laths to bear it out. Yet is it the practice of many that are neat and well proportioned enough, fearing they might grow too big and gross, to meager themselves by long and tedious fastings; and when they eat, to ch●se meats of bad concoction, as herbs, fruits, salads, vinegar, that so by a hard and coarse diet, they might become neat and slender; when all they do is nothing else but to extenuate and discolour the body by so rude an abstinence. It were better if such would follow the counsel of Physicians, to eat often and little, and that meat of good nourishment; to eat only once a day, or eating twice, to rise from Table only half satisfied, and so they might become of a mean and graceful habitude; without detriment either to health or beauty. I have hitherto spoken of Meats and Drinks that are Alimentary; there are yet others that are Medicinal, and that equally with these advance the beauty. For since it is a thing very difficult, if not impossible, to live always in such an Air as our temperament and constitution require, and that many unwelcome emergencies neither suffer us long to be without care and vexation, nor to keep an exact diet, or to take it in such a mediocrity and oppertune time as is requisite to the breeding of good blood; since (I say) it is a thing so troublesome continually to govern ourselves by the rules and measure of an exact method, it will be expedient to anticipate that alteration or corruption, which may happen amongst the humours of the body, (through excess, or any other misdemeanour in our course of life,) by some means or other, which hath power to expel those vicious qualities, which may cause an ill complexion; that so the colour may be kept clear and lively, the skin smooth and subtle. The last means to effect this, will be in due time to purge the body with some quick and gentle medicament, as Cassia, Manna, syrup of Violets, white Roses or the like; if you would clear the body of superfluous humours after too much indulging your , you may take half a dram of pillulae Ruffi going to bed, and the next day you shall have all the relics of your late intemperance, swept out in three or four stools. Vinegar of Squills, if taken in a morning for several times together, and you exercise moderately after it, beautifies the body with a very fresh and lively colour. The same effects have the Trochisks of red Roses, if you carry them about you and take now and then one at your pleasure. The frequent use of Clysters is not without reason much commended, for that they do not only make the body soluble and purge the peccant humours, but also divert those fumes and vapours which ascending to the head alter much the beauty of the face. Syrup of Fumitory, Agrimony, chicory, open obstructions, and correct the intemperature of the liver; and for this reason are of singular use for clearing the complexion. It would not be amiss, if I here put you in mind, to keep the body and all its parts at ease, without straightening them or hindering their free motion and repose: For to gird the body too close, to bind the arms or legs too hard, draws the blood too much from the face, and makes it descend to the more inferior parts. Your own observation may satisfy you in this particular, for you may frequently perceive those persons become pale and lose their complexion, who to have a small and slender body, gird themselves too close; or to have a handsome leg and foot, use stockings and shoes much too straight. When the humours apt to corrupt are expelled and the blood purified, in the place of the vicious, you are to supply the body with good humours, by food of light concoction and good nourishment, as Ponado's, well seasoned Broths, and the like. But before you eat, rise something early, and exercise moderately, that so you may help Nature to disperse those humours which were heaped together during sleep, and make an equal distribution of the aliment, which in the last night's repose hath been digested. It is the ill custom of some Ladies, that they might meliorate their complexions, to take in their beds Broths, Asses or Goat's milk, and after sleep upon it: such nourishment although it be good and commendable in itself, yet taken in such a sluttish manner, instead of breeding good blood, is soon corrupted and turned into a malignant nature; both because the stomach when such meat is received, is not as yet discharged of its excrements and pituitous superfluities; and the appetite is not as then excited; for that the animal spirits which are the causes of it, are yet dull and drowsy. Moreover, in the morning Nature being careful of its oeconomy, is employed to drive outward those humid redundancies which were heaped the night before up in the body; but such unreasonable eating, diverts Nature from that expulsion, and constrains her to retire inward to promote concoction; so that being distracted by two such contrary motions, she performs neither so, as much to farther the body's health. Thus much for that course of life which ought to be observed by those who would have their ravishing features penetrate those flinty breasts against which Cupid's shafts seem too blunt and dull: the next Chapter supplies you with Remedies which shall so set off the loathsome imperfections of a blear-eyed and withered Megaera, that she shall be taken for some attractive and heart subduing Venus. CHAP. III. External means to gain a good Complexion. IF in the flowery enamel of Nature's garden there be any sensitive plant 'tis beauty: for though it may thrive and flourish perhaps in the face that Elysium of delights, during the youthful May of warmer years, yet even then must it be cherished with a tender care: for so sensible is it of the softest touch, that if the Sun (intending to borrow some of its lustre to increase his own) do but gently salute it with its subtle & limber rays, it presently shrouds itself in a mantle of Jet, as if resenting his mildest embraces; as a rude indignity, it were resolved to benight the face in a gloomy coverture, in spite of his world of glory. So again if sullen Aeolus come so ne'er to blow upon it with his chilly breath, it presently contracts its expanded roses, as if it had rather degenerate into a deformed nature, then expose itself to the saucy blasts of that blustering courtier. We can't then be too careful of a flower which is so nice and tender, neither can any with discretion blame those Ladies that through an innocent care of enamouring looks, use some artificial waters to preserve and cherish those features, which are of themselves too apt to fade and whither. I must here yet give them this caution, to avoid those things which rather adulterate then adorn the skin, such as Spanish white and Mercury: the least inconveniences they must ex●ect from such drugs (except prepared by a very skilful Artist) are a wrinkle-furrowed visage, stinking breath, lose & rotten teeth. So that it will be more safe and better to use decoctions, Pomatums, ointments and such like applications as you find described here, which are not in the least dangerous and do exceedingly adorn the beauty. As for the use of them, before they are applied, the part must be washed with warm water, and after with water and soap, or some other detersive liquor, which may prepare and fit it for the action of the ensuing medicaments. Such preparative liquors may be, distilled waters of mallows, elder, beans, water lilies; cows milk distilled; infusion of white bread, decoction of French barley, or any thing of the like nature, whereof you may have your choice in this Chapter. When the part is cleansed, apply some of the following Cosmeticks, let them lie on all night, and in the morning wash with bran and water, or else with Violet water. The most approved Compositions for the beautifying of the Body, are these: Take the Roots of Dragonwort, Arum (or Cuckoe-pintle) Briony, of each one ounce: sweet almonds peeled, half a pound: bean bran half an ounce: Camphire, sal gem. sal ammoniac. borace, rock alum, all powdered of each two drams, incorporate them together with the whites of eggs, and form thereof little balls, which dissolve in cold water, wash your face therewith going to bed, let it lie on till the morning, and then wash it off with this water following: Take a pottle Pot well glazed, fill it half full with the roots of white or marsh mallows washed and sliced, add thereto a pint of white wine, a dozen egg shells clean washed and powdered, afterwards pour in so much river or spring water as will fill up the Pot, boil all these together to the consumption of a third part, and then add the crumb of a penny white loaf, and as much as a bean of verdigreese, pounded and tied up in a little bag, strain the decoction into a basin, and add to half thereof an ounce of finely powdered sugar, moisten a fine white rag in this water, and wash the face therewith, without wiping after it. Take two white pigeons, pull them, and cast away the guts, head, wings and legs, then mince them into small pieces, than put them into a glass alembick, strowing the bottom with some plantain leaves; add thereto oil of sweet almonds three ounces, butter four ounces, a pint of Goat's milk, the crumb of a white loaf, borace and sugar candy of each two drams, alum and powdered camphire of each three draws, the whites of 24 eggs, let all these infuse for the space of twelve hours, then carfully stop the alembick, and distil them in Balneo Mariae; put the distilled water into glass viols to settle in a cool cellar, strain it through a fine cloth, and wash your face there with morning and evening: it makes the face, or any other part, exceeding comely: and is that pigeon water which hath been so much prized by the Court Dames at Paris. Take alum, sal gem, of each one ounce, borace and camphire half an ounce, oil of Tartar four ounces; beat and work them together, then add a pint of briony water, distil them altogether in B.M. the water you draw from them will be of marvellous virtue to beautify any part, and make it of a ruddy complexion. Of the same effect is that which follows. Take madder, frankincense, myrrh, oriental saffron, mastic, of each like quantities, bruise them all, and steep them in white wine, anoint the face therewith going to bed, in the morning wash either with cold or warm water, it will purple any part with a gallant and pleasing blush. Or, take fraxinella roots, chew them, and tie them in a fine rag, and bathe the face. This following is much commended for making the face white and clear as alabaster; Take myrrh two ounces, frankincense half an ounce, white ginger three drams, cinnamon and sublimate of each two drams, camphire one dram, whites of three or four eggs, put all these together in the belly of a young pullet or capon well washed, and cleansed; add thereto Goats or Ass' milk, distil all together, and you shall have such a water that few things can equal it. If you fear it because of the sublimate, after you have used it two or three times, you may discontinue it, and use this following: Take the white of an egg, beat it together with rose water, anoint the face therewith, and when it hath sometime been dried on wash with rose water. Or often bathe the face with rose water camphorated. It is exceeding good to prevent those inconveniencies which may happen from the use of such things as too much dry and parch the face. Slice four oranges and as many limmons, take white sugar and rock alum of each one ounce; infuse them three or four hours in a quart of milk, then distil them in B. M. and wet some fine cloth in the water to lay over the face when you go to bed. Or, take Goat's milk one quart, juice of citrons one pint, white wine vinegar half a pint, the flowers of beans, water lilies, fumitory, of each three handfuls, the whites of half a dozen eggs, camphire two drams, distil and use them as the other. Oil of myrrh is singular good to preserve the beauty, if when you go to bed you wash your face with the distilled water of bean flowers, and afterwards anoint it with that oil: It is thus prepared, Take new laid eggs and boil them hard, slit them and take out the yolks, then fill them up with powdered myrrh, close them together, lay them in a moist cool place, and the myrrh will dissolve into a water, which is the oil. After the same manner you may prepare oil of Tartar, if you calcine and put it into the eggs, it is an exceeding good Cosmetick. Take Unguentum Citrinum three ounces, sperma coeti an ounce and a half, salt of Ceruse half an ounce, oil of eggs as much, mash them together and make a lineament. To make salt of Ceruse, you must powder the ceruse very fine, and mix it with some distilled vinegar, so that to one ounce of ceruse there may be four ounces of vinegar; let it infuse three or four days, then draw it off by filtration, and and set that which is drawn off over the fire, in an earthen pot well glazed and dried till it become a salt, as they make their cauteries. Take prepared snails, that is, drawn out of their shells and washed so long in salt and water till they lose their slime, than pound them and lay one bed of them in the bottom of an Alembicke, and on them make an other bed of sal gem, alum, frankincense, borace, camphire of each pounded two drams, then pour on so much juice of limmons as may cover them two fingers, so let them macerate 5 or 6 hours together, and then distil them in Bal. Maris. Take twelve lemons, as many hen eggs, half a pound of turpentine well washed, put the turpentine in the bottom of the alembick, boil the eggs hard and distil all in B. M. this water is excellent to whiten the skin and change the complexion, if you wash wish spring watar and dry the face, and after wash with this without wiping. This bath is very good, Take two handfuls of sage leaves, the like quantity of lavender flowers and roses, a little salt, boil them in spring water and therewith bathe your body; remembering that you are never to bathe after meals for it will occasion many infirmities; bath therefore two or three hours before dinner, it will clear the skin, revives the spirits and strengthens the body, the same effects hath this following. Take rose water, vinegar, salt, boil all together in fair water, take thereof a pint, mix some bran with it, and wash the body all over with it, let it dry on, then wash it off, nothing can be better to mundify the body. Some Lady's delight much in sweet baths, therefore into half a pint of water they put 5 or 6 drops of oil of spickenard; some beside this add musk, amber, civet, lignum aloes, benjamin, storax, myrrh, cloves, roses, limmon and orange flowers, rosemary, lavender, mint, pennyroyal. But your chemical extracts far excel all these, if you mix but half a dozen drops with your bath; such are the oil of oranges, cloves, mace, nutmegs and the like. When your bath is provided remember if you prize your health or beauty, that it be not too hot; for than it scorcheth the skin and makes it rough; and causes very many untoward infirmities. Thus much for the means to gain a good complexion, I come in the next place to give some special remedies, how to correct the more particular vices of an ill complexion: as a pale and swarthy colour, a rough, harsh, gross or sluttish skin, sweat, spots, itch, scab, leprosy, scurf and the like. CHAP. IU. How to beautify a white and pallid complexion. Such colours when they annoy the complexion principally proceed from ill humours, which abound in the body & are expelled forth to the external superficies of the skin; wherefore those that desire to correct any vicious colour that offends their bodies, must in the first place by some purgation evacuate that humour, whereto their distemper owes its original. Now the paleness of the complexion in women is principally occasioned by obstructions of the spleen and liver, which cause in them a suppression of their monthly purgations, which cause being by an orderly course of physic removed, the body must be replenished by a good and commendable diet. If this do not recover their decaying beauty they may proceed to external applications; and to make their cheeks and lips ruddy and lively, with good success use these things following. Dissolve the shave of Brasil and Orkanet, in alum water, wherewith (after you have sufficiently cleansed the face with water of lilies or bean flowers) bathe the cheeks and lips, letting it dry on. Or else bathe the cheeks, lips or any other part that is too pale and white with alum water wherein a pciee of red turnsoile hath been often steeped, or rub those parts with a piece of sheepskin coloured red. To chafe the parts often with the hand or a course cloth makes them look red and lively; for such frictions draw the blood and spirits outward. Or in case of necessity use Pomatum and Vermilion made of cinnaberis. Or, Take red Saunders bruise and steep it for 3 days in Aqua Vitae, then boil it for an hour over a gentle sire adding a little alum and gum arabic, than strain it and bathe the parts therewith. Take rock alum unc. 1. boil it in a pint of running water, when it is dissolved take it off from the fire, let it cool, then add to it Vermilion finely powdered one ounce, boil them again to a consumption of half, strain the decoction and keep it for your use. Take Brasil one ounce, Cloves half a score, grains of Paradise two scruples, boil them with a pint of rectified Aqua vitae in a covered vessel; use it when it is cold. CHAP. V To smooth a rough and uneven Skin. THe skin is the bodies native shirt; which if it be of a courser thread, it is some of Nature's homespun houswifry, carelessly huddled up when she was in haste to finish a finer piece. To smooth such rugged, canvas and bring it to a pleasing evenness that may vie with the polished Alabaster, art here presents an inventory of of its best directions: so often proved that I presume any course skinned Lady who will be so much her own friend to use them, may soon be freed from doing penance in nature's sackcloth. Take peeled Almonds six pound, mastic, prepared ceruse and gum dragant of each four ounces, the whites of 4 eggs, pound all together very carefully, let it stand 5 or 6 days pounding it every day once, then put them in a press and keep the oil that comes forth to anoint the skin withal. Take hempseed, pound it small, moisten it with a little aqua vitae then heat it in a frying pan made very clean, so hot that you cant endure to touch, afterward put it into a bag and press it, the oil that comes from it is exceeding good for the roughness of the skin. Anoint any part that is too rough with oil of rape seed or bitter almonds, or oil of wheat. Or take sweet almonds cleansed and peeled four pound, moisten them with the spirit of wine & rose water mixed together of each one ounce, beat them together and fry them, when they begin to smoke put them in a bag, so press them and there will come forth an oil very clear, which you must put into a pot of rain water and beat it together till it become exceeding white: then keep it as a rare secret to smooth and polish the skin. CHAP. VI How to cleans the sweaty and sluttish Complexion. THE microcosm through the sordid sluttishness of some, is often drowned in a nasty deluge of sweat; out a design perhaps to take Cupid captive and birdlime his wings with such clammy excrements: but if they have no other tempting bait, than the greasy pomatum which their own ill stuffed bodies supply them with, I am afraid (though being blind he cannot see them) he'll smell them a mile off and so keep his distance. They would do much better to break off this petty plot upon Cupid, and scour their bodies well with these abstersives. Take bryony roots half a handful, serpentary the less, (or friars Cowl,) pellitory of the wall, elecampane, of each three ounces, whole beans, rice, white vetches, French barley of each two ounces and a half, flowers of camomile, melilot of each one handful. Boil all these together in rain water & receive the fume up in the face. If you would have it for your whole body, double the quantities, boil them, pour them forth into a bath, set a stool in the bath, cast a sheet over you and so receive the vapour. Vnguentum Citrinum is of great efficacy to help this distemper if you add thereto a little sublimate carefully prepared, or a little white hellebore finely powdered. The fumes of the decoction of the shave of Guajacum is exceeding good. Take bean meal, white vetches, sweet almonds blanched, gum dragant, bryony roots of each half an ounce, pound them a part, then mix them and incorporate them with whites of eggs; make them up into little balls. When you have occasion to use them dissolve them in barley water, and bathe the skin therewith, going to bed, next day wash with water wherein the finest flower hath been steeped. Take the roots of serpentary sliced, dry them in the sun, powder and sift them, next incorporate them with rose water into a past, dry them again in the sun and powder them, then add a third part of ceruse prepared so as is directed in the 2. part. c. 1. then work all together with rose water, dry them in the sun, and at last bring it with beating it in a mortar to a very fine powder. When you would use it, mix it with the juice of limmons, and so make it into a lineament for a sweaty part. Take barley half ripe two pound, goat's milk three pints, the whites of a dozen eggs, mix and distil them in balneo maris, then use it. Or take sifted bran, the best leaven two pound, as much vinegar as shall be requisite, the whites of eight eggs, mingle them, and make it into a paste, then distil it in B. M. Take thirty Snails prepared, a quart of Goat's milk, hog's suet three ounces, camfre powdered two drams, beat them together, and distil them in an Alembick. The sluttishness and sweat of the skin, may proceed either from an external cause, as negligence to wipe and cleanse the face from that filth and ordure which may be engendered by the air, or any other accident; and then there needs no more to beautify it, than a constant washing and rubbing it: Or, from an internal, as fuliginous vapours detained betwixt the Cutis and Epidermis, by reason of its density. This is the more frequent cause, and for the more general cure of it, the body must throughly be purged of those humours which produce such excrements; and for topical applications, you are to use such things as are set down in this Chapter. Or you may scour and cleanse the body with water wherein fine wheat flower, or the crumb of white bread hath been infused, adding to it a small quantity of the juice of limmons. Or with the decoction of mallow roots, or lilies. As also with the infusion of the roots of briony, with the juice of the roots of showbread, or wild cucumbers incorporated with bean meal, with the oil of sulphur or tartar, mixed either with clear fountain water, or else with any of the former decoctions. Thus far concerning the nasty sweat of the skin; the next inconvenience that damages the beauty, and which we intent to give remedies how to correct, are itch and scabs. CHAP. VII. How to repair the beauty of an itchy or scabby skin. I Am afraid, Ladies, that whilst I prescribe remedies for so loathsome a skin-defiling malady, you will think I have forgot ye, and am now addressing myself to your kitchen maids: I must confess these fretting exulcerations are more frequently incident to such as are forced to content themselves with courser commons; as amongst the fleecy troops, those are soon scabby that feed in unwholesome pasture. Yet the highest and best fed, are not always exempted from the infection; nor are the most delicate Ladies, especially if any thing irregular or intemperate, wholly secured, that they shall be no fuller of ill humours than their skins can hold. If ever then your ill disposed humours grow so strong, to break their way through the enclosing skin, it will do you no harm to have something in readiness that may check their presumption. Take Fumitory water an ounce and a half, succory water three ounces, syrup of fumitory and succory of each one ounce; mix altogether, and take it for your morning's draught, use it for five days together: then use this excellent medicine; Take Sena two drams, rhubarb one scruple, annis seeds half a scruple; white wine half a pint; put all into an earthen bottle, stopit close, and set it over warm embers all night, in the morning strain it out and drink it: if the stomach be weak, and love not Potions, you may use these following Pills: Take Citrine mirabolans, rhubarb, of each half a dram, aloes washed in the decoction of sena one scruple, make them up into Pills with syrup of Fumitory; then anoint yourself going to bed with this ointment. Take Brimstone an ounce and a half, salt and salad oil one ounce, grind the salt and sulphur exceeding small; mix them with the oil, and when you go to bed use it for three or four nights; only chafing it very well into the palms of the hands, then draw on a pair of gloves; and keep them on all night; it will cure all itch and scabs throughout the body. Take as much man's urine as will serve to bathe the diseased up to the knees; add thereto▪ charecoal of oak powdered and black hellebore, but more hellebore than coal: bath therewith the legs for fifteen mornings together, and longer if need requite. This hath its effect on every member of the body, so that whether it be Totter, Leprosy, Itch, or running Scab, in short time it is cured with this medicine. Mercur. and other experienced Physicians, commend the success that these ointments have, if they are applied to the pulse: Take oleum laurinum six drams, quicksilver one dram and a half, borace three drams, ceruse one dram, cumin-seeds one scruple; make them into an ointment. Or, Take equal parts of borace and aloes, a third part of prepared quicksilver, as much oil of Laurel, make them into an Unguent; and with either of these anoint the pulses going to bed: after you have bathed your arms for some while in warm water. I find these much extolled, but I would not have you use them before you have tried something else because of the quicksilver. Before you practice with any medicine, remember to purge the body of that humour which is the cause of your distemper. I shall here only add two or three odoriserous waters which cure all such infirmities, and make the skin smooth and delicate. Take Bawm, what quantity you please, beat it well, then set it to macerate one night in white wine, the next morning draw off the water in a glass still. It is exceeding sweet, and in a short time cures all scabs throughout the body, if you add a grain of musk and bathe it therewith: mixed with natural balsam, and anointed on the face, 'twill make it of a lively rose colour. Take dried Sage eight ounces, nutmegs five ounces, ginger, cloves, cinnamon, grains of paradise, of each four ounces; bruise them, and then set them to digest for twenty four hours in good white wine, afterward distil them according to art in an Alembick: The water drawn from thence is so excellent, that if you drink it in a small quantity for three days fasting, it cures all Tetters and Scabs, breeds good blood, and causes a lovely complexion. Take Turpentine a quarter of a pound, honey two ounces, aquae vitae three ounces, wood of aloes beaten small, sweet sanders, of each three drams, gum arabic one dram, nutmegs two drams, ambergris one dram, powder all small, and distil them with a gentle fire; and in your operation you shall draw three several sorts of liquors: the first is clear, the second (when the fire is increased) falls in drops like burning coals, the third descends a little blacker and thicker than honey. The first is called mother of balsam; the second oil of balsam; and the third artisicial balsam: If you anoint yourself with the first of these, it is exceeding good for spreading Scabs, or itching Tetters; kept in the mouth, it sweetens the breath, fastens, preserves, and whitens the teeth; anointing the face therewith, it makes it smooth and ruddy. The second and third liquors recover complexion lost, are good for any bruise, cure all distempers arising from the blood, or phlegm corrupted. CHAP. VIII. To adorn the scurffie and mealy Complexion. That Complexion is said to be mealy and scurffie, which appears full of little white scales that fall off like small bran, when the face or other part is rubbed with a woollen cloth. The thin and meager constitution is most frequently troubled with this distemper; and it proceeds from thick and gross humours detained betwixt the cuticle and the under skin, which corrupt after some continuance, and then corrode that slender covering into a scaly dust. To embellish such a complexion, the chiefest care must be to dislodge those humours that lie betwixt the Epidermis and the grosser skin; for which intent you may use urine, or white wine wherein sliced limmons have been boiled; a lixivium made with the ashes of beets and coleworts, wherein boil lupins and beans, and in the strained liquor dissolve a spoonful or two of honey or gall, or something of the like nature to bathe the face withal. If the face be very lean, instead of the foregoing Fomentation, you may use this that is not so drying. Take the leaves of bugloss, borage, pellitory, mallows, fumitory, violets, cichory, endive, lettuce, poppy, fengreek, cleansed barley, boil them together in water, adding a little bran bound up in a bag; after the face hath been bathed, wash it with this water: Take bitter almonds, the meal of beans and vetches, of each one ounce; alum, borace, mastic, olibanum, gum tragant, of each half an ounce; juice of limmons seven ounces; water of plantain, roses and white lilies, of each three ounces; new Goat's milk four ounces; mix all together, and distil them with a gentle fire. Take Mel rosatum, rose water, juice of limmons, of each two ounces; gum tragagant, mastic, ceruse prepared, starch, olibanum, of each three drams, alum, white coral, cuttle bone, borace, of each two drams; sal gem, a dram and a half; bean meal one ounce; the whites of three eggs, snails beaten with their shells, six ounces; camphire half a dram; cinnamon half an ounce; mix them, and distil them in Balneo Maris, then apply the water to the face. Take Enula campan, burdock roots, of each two ounces; boil them in strong vinegar, pound them and pass them through a streiner; add solphur vive two drams, salt calcined a dram and a half, juice of limmons two ounces; dip a cloth in this composition, and so bathe the skin with it. Take the water that is found in cavities of oaks, wash the skin therewith: Or, Take the juice that is newly pressed from agrimony incorporated with salt and vinegar; or the juice of burdock mixed with sulphur vive. The Decoction of scabious drank for some mornings together, cures the skin of this infirmity. Or, Take the roots of scrofulary out of the ground in Autumn, beat them together with fresh butter, put it into an earthen pot close stopped, set it in a moist place twelve or fifteen days, the butter will soon dissolve, strain it, and keep it to anoint the body. CHAP. IX. How to polish the Skin when it is disfigured with Scars, or marks of the Small Pox. VArious are the supprising casualties that deform a polished Skin; each wound is a grave where Loves dumb orator lies enshrined; and Surgeons usually the unskilful Plasterers, that make an ill-raised cicatrice the swelling monument to departed beauty. The feature fretting Pox, if it sets but a foot within that paradise of perfections the face; it leaves more disfiguring impressions there, than a Coridon's clouted shoes on a Cedar floor. Now to smooth, Ladies, and polish your skins after such disasters, prize the medicines commended to you in this Chapter as rarities; they'll make the hills and dales of uneven faces meet without a miracle, levelling them to such a smoothness, that little Cupid, though blind, may sport himself there and never stumble. Take mastic two ounces, gum arabic one ounce, saffron half an ounce, turpentine three ounces, old salad oil two ounces; make the mastic and gum arabic into a gross powder, than put them into the oils and turpentine, distil all together in a glass Alembick, and anoint the face with the water going to bed; in the morning wash with warm water, wherein the finest flower hath been infused. It is exceeding good for any disfiguring scar that appears after the consolidation of a wound. Of the same nature is the next that follows. Take oil of Tartar, and the mucilage of Psyllium seeds extracted with rose water, of each one ounce; ceruse dissolved in oil of roses as much, borace and sal gem. of each one dram; incorporate them well together and make an ointment. Or, Take Tartar well burnt, boil eggs hard, take out the yolks after you have slit them, and fill up the cavities with the tartar; put them in a moist place, and keep the water that comes from thence as excellent for scars. Take lethargy of gold two ounces, ceruse and salt, of each half an ounce; vinegar, rose and plantain water, of each three ounces; camphire half a dram; mingle and filter it, so keep it for use. Or, Take wild cucumber roots finely powdered one ounce, alum two drams, sulphur vive, nitre, of each one dram; incorporate all together with lard well washed, use it as an ointment. These two are of the same virtue with the former. Take oil of Lilies, capon's grease, oil of roses, of each one ounce and a half; wash these well in rose and lily water; then add to them the whites of four or five eggs half boiled in their shells, oil of sweet and bitter almonds, of each one ounce; incorporate them together in a marble mortar, and in the working put in the mucilage of melon seeds, litharge of gold and chalk powdered, of each two drams; make them into an Unguent: applied to the face, it takes away all those scars the Small Pox too frequently makes there. Hare's blood, if you bathe the skin often with it warm, fills the cavities with flesh, and makes the skin even and plain. It is likewise an approved experiment, That the water which comes from Sheep or Goat's hoofs burnt, is very good for the same. Or, use this following: Take lethargy of gold washed nine times in rose water, and sifted as often, two drams; reed roots dried and pounded, rice meal, powder of bones, bean meal, of each one dram; beat all together very small, then sift it through fine tiffiny; incorporate it with the mucilage of flax seed, fengreek and psyllium extracted in lily water, and so bring it into the form of an Unguent. Apply it to the face going to bed, on the morrow wash with barley water. Bath the places with warm water, then strew thereon the cinders of Tartar, either alone or with myrrh. Or, bath the places with water wherein cinnamon hath a long time boiled, then put thereon the powder of lethargy, it will in short time take away all marks of the Small Pox. Take wheaten starch, blanched almonds, of each two drams; sweet costus, gum tragacanth, of each half a dram; reed roots half an ounce; barley meal, whole melon seeds, beans dried and pounded three drams, saffron one scruple, powder and sift the whole, mingle them with equal parts of rose water and juice of orange peel, make a lineament, and with a feather anoint the scars of the pox, leaveing it so all night; on the morrow wash with the decoction of camomile and melilot. CHAP. X. How to remove spots in what part of the body soever. I Have seen faces from whose features, beauty herself might have taken copies, had not nature studying too much neatness played the courtesan, and spoiled that which was handsome before by two much patching. Yet most Ladies never think themselves Venus' for beauty, except they have some artificial mole: though such stellae nebulosae eclipse more than increase the native lustre; and especially where nature is too free in her spots they are always reputed blemishes not ornaments. Those than that have beauties characters defaced with such blots, if they have recourse to these following directions, shall find themselves quickly freed, and their features so ravishing that were it the mode of this age to dedicate shrines to beauty, there is no●e of them but would have their Altar, where the most generous heart should glory to be a sacrifice. To take away any spot whatever. Bathe them for three mornings together with alum dissolved in oil of Tartar, wash after with lie and lupine meal. Or take two parts of plantain water and one of rose-water, sulphur vive powdered two ounces, rock alum beaten small one ounce, boil them over the fire till a fifth part be consumed, then take it off and stir it well till it be cool, afterward strain it through a fine cloth and keep it for use. It takes away all kind of spots. Take sugar candy, white frankincense of each two ounces, dissolve them in juice of limmons half a pint, boil them gently in a little skillet, then anoint the spots with it, after they have been washed with barley water. Take lie made of Vine ashes, juice of coleworts, oxgall of each a pound and a half, dissolve therein half an ounce of alum and three whole eggs beaten, wet a cloth in this composition and bathe the spots therewith. Take turpentine and mastic, tutia prepared, of each two ounces, camphire half an ounce, steep them three days in strong vinegar, distil them in an alembick, and keep the water for use. To clear the skin of black spots. Take the distilled waters of dock and melon roots of each one quart, ten swallow eggs, salt nitre half an ounce, white Tartar two ounces, pound the nitre and tartar then mix them altogether, let them stand 24 hours, then distil them in an alembick in B. M. wash the black spots with the water in the morning, at night wash them with oil of tartar and sweet almonds mixed together. Take mastic powdered, sulphur vive of each one ounce, bay berries as many; steep them in warm water for the space of ten days stirring them carefully once or twice a day: then wash the black places with that water. Take roots of iris Florent. wild cucumbers, briony of each two pound, dittany four ounces, flowers of beans, pellitory of the wall of each one handful, flowers of water lily two handfuls, steep them in white wine then mix them with goat's milk; after distil them in an alembick, and keep the water to wash the spots. For white spots. These proceed commonly from a pituitous humour abounding in the body and are thus remedied. Take barley, lupins, red Vetches, the roots of the greater and less dragon wort of each one ounce, pound them and incorporate them with the whites of eggs, make them up in little balls and dry them in the sun: when you have occasion to use them dissolve one or two in rose-water, and so anoint the spots going to bed, in the morning wash with the infusion of the crumb of white bread. Take the ashes of asphodill roots mix them with vinegar and apply them. Or steep the rind of Caper roots in strong vinegar. Or verdegreece finely powdered & macerated a day and a night in juice of limmons, wet a linen cloth therein, and bathe the spots. For green spots. Powder the dried roots of dragon wort, to two ounces of this powder add ceruse half an ounce, and as much cuttle bone powdered, work them together with rose water and make them into little balls, dry them and keep them for your use: when you have occasion dissolve a couple in a quantity of rose water and therewith anoint the skin. Take the juice of chelandine & strong vinegar make it into an ointment and apply it. Or take brimstone, myrrh, frankincense, camphre of each two drams, steep them in rose water the space of 8 days, stirring it once a day then let it settle and use it to wash the face. For red tawny spots. Take Venetian ceruse one ounce, lapis calaminaris, litharge of each two drams, prepared tutia, spodium of each one dram, powder them very small, then add the water of plantain, housleek, red roses of each two drams, mingle them and keep it for your use. In the morning fasting chew in the mouth a bit of mastic as soon as you perceive it to dissolve anoint the spots therewith. Or powder pigeons dung, flax seed, French barley, soak them in strong vinegar and anoint the spots. CHAP. XI. To reduce the body that is too fat to a mean and handsome proportion. IT can be no pleasing sight, to see a soul pressed under a mountain of flesh, and the body stretched to such dimensions that make it represent a walking barrel. Were there nothing more than this, 'twere sufficient to deter any from such an unwildie magnitude, that it always proves its own accuser, exposing in too legible characters, Sloth, to every one that can but read. For when ere the carcase swells itself into a bulk too voluminous, idleness is there described in folio. Have a care Ladies then to keep your bodies in a mean proportion, and if ever they enlarge themselves to extravagant limits, use these directions to reduce them to their former bounds, so you may regain your credit and your beauty too. Rise early in the mornings and use some violent exercise to sweat often; fast much, rise half satisfied from your meals; let your first course be oily and fatty things that the appetite may be soon satiated, and the body kept soluble; the second course sharp, salt and bitter things: out all your meats with vinegar, pepper, mustard, juice of oranges and limmons; sleep at night on a quilt. It is good to bleed largely twice a year, the right arm in the spring, the left in the autumn; purge the body in those seasons with strong physic, once a week take some laxatives, as pillulae ●●uffi, extractum Rudii; every morning chiefly in winter use this powder. Take the feeds of annis, fennel, agnus castus, rue, carroway, cummin, pepper, ginger, mace, nutmegs, galingale, smallage, dried marjerom, gentian, round birthwort, of each equal parts, take one dram of this powder in a glass of white wine half an hour before meals. Cooling applications may be laid to the heart or liver, as the juice or decoction of plantain, shepherd's purse, horstaile, lettuce, white henbane, adding the powder of camfre, myrtle or the like. If any one particular part be too corpulent, for the rest of the body, you may bring it to a correspondent proportion if you use this unguent, Take Fuller's earth, ceruse and lead, mix them with the juice of white henbane and the oil of myrtle; anoint the part therewith, having first bathed it with vinegar, wherein brimstone, salt nitre, and rock alum have been dissolved. Some use with ligaments to bind those passages, whereby the member is supplied with nourishment. CHAP. XII. To make the body or any part thereof plump and fat, that was before too lean. IN a contrary extreme to corpulency, are those breathing Skeletons that carry Lent in their face at a Christmas feast, and look so meagerly that their Confessors, since they have nothing left but skin and bones, dare not for fear of a Solecism enjoin them penance to mortify the flesh. No part about them thrive so well as their bones, and these look as lusty, as if they had eaten up the flesh, and were ready to leap of the skin to fall upon others. Truly Ladies such leanness is a ravenous guest, and will keep you bare to maintain him, if you have a mind to be rid of his company, observe these prescriptions following and I dare engage he shall not long disturb you. Let your chamber in the summer time be kept something cool and moist with violets, lilies, or the like fresh flowers: before you eat, chafe the body till it look red, then walk and stir about some housewives employment. When you eat take nothing that is salt or sharp, bitter or too hot, but let your meats be sweet and of good nourishment, as fresh eggs, mutton, veal, capon, and for three hours after meat take your recreation in dancing, singing, discoursing &c. use some baths twice a month, and in the mornings this electuary. Sweet almonds, pistach nuts, white poppy seed, butter and sugar, beat them up into the form of an electuary: take thereof morning and evening the quantity of a walnut, it quickly fattens and gives a good complexion. Take twelve or thirteen Lizards or outs cut off their heads and tails, boil them and let the water stand to cool, take of the grease mix it with wheaten flower, feed a Hen therewith till she be fat, then kill her and eat her; this often used will make you exceeding sat, keep it for a rare and true secret. Take a young Capon, the flesh of veal, four calves feet, white wine, fair water of both 3 quarts: boil all in an earthen vessel, scumming of all the fat. Then put this broth into a new vessel with a pound and a half of sugar, cinnamon half an ounce, a dozen cloves, boil it gently again, then add thereto the whites of two eggs, reboil it, and pass it through a streiner, before it cool, mix a little musk, and amber, dissolved in rose-water. Take the flower of rice half a pound, dissolve it in as much milk as is sufficient, add thereto the flesh of a young Capon boiled tender, sweet almonds 24. beat them well in a mortar then mix them with the milk and rice, strain all through a course cloth, putting thereto what quantity of sugar you please. Boil all over a soft fire till it coagulate into the form of a jelly: when it gins to cool add of amber and musk dissolved in rose water as much as will give it a grateful odour, often take a small quantity of it. If one part fall away and be are no proportion to the rest of the body; you may bring it to even terms thus. Take oil of Foxes an ounce and a half, oil of lilies, the grease of Capons, and Geese of each two ounces, greek pitch, pine rosin, and turpentine of each two ounces, boil all these together in an earthen glazed vessel, adding oil of elder one ounce, then take it from the fire and add new wax, as much as will suffice to make it into a stiff cerecloth, when it is almost cold spread it upon a strong cloth, as much as will wrap up the member, then apply it and leave it on all night; if you find any inconvenience in it use this following bath. Boil in claret wine half a handful of roses, wormwood, stoechas, calamint, squinanth, rosemary, sage, cammomile, of each one handful; let a third part of the wine be consumed, while it is warm, bathe the place where the cerecloth was applied; this bath doth draw nourishment to the part, and strengthens its retentive virtue. Thus much of what concerns the beautifying of the body in general. PART. II. Of the Head, Neck, and Breasts. YE that intent, Ladies, to subdue hearts, and command with sovereignty in the mint-house of others Affections, must be careful to keep in tune the harmony of these parts; remembering that they were intended for beauties glorious Frontispiece, to allure Spectators eyes, and with a Phoebeau lustre, make them its obsequious Heliotropes. By what means you are to preserve their splendour, you may be instructed in this Second Part. Where you shall learn how to give the Face such a commanding Beauty; that all who view it shall yield obedience, and none rebel but those who cannot see; how your Eyes may be made Cupid's crystal burning glasses, to kindle devotion in your Captives hearts; and your bushy Hair Venus' Grove, in whose twyning Maeanders a pleasing imprisonment shall breed a dislike of former Freedom: In a wotd, how to advance your Features to such a pitch of dazzling glory, that shall make Beauty itself out of countenance, and put Cupid hardly to it, among so many fair ones, to know his Mother. CHAP. I. To cure Redness and fiery Pimples in the Face. AN inundation of crimsoned blood often drowns the flowery Elysium of a charming face; disfigoring it with such a flaming hue, as if the juicy god had made it his vineyard, and planted it with ruby Grapes. To abate the fury of such high colours, and fright them into a pleasing paleness; call to your assistance the following Receipts. As to the general cure, you are to abstain from wine, except it be very well qualified; as also from all meats which heat the blood, as those which are sharp or spicy: or are easy to be corrupted in the stomach, as milk, cheese, etc. use in your broths lettuce, spinach, purslain, sorrel, and the like: Blood-letting is exceeding good, chief in the median vein, in both the arms, some days being interposed; then in the vein of the forehead, afterwards in the neck; apply cupping-glasses to the shoulders and neck, especially under the chin, and sometimes to the thighs and legs; you may also apply leeches to the cheeks and chin to evacuate the blood that is amassed under the skin. For more particular remedies, if the malady be inveterate, begin with Emolients, digestives, and things that do attenuate, not only to rarify the skin, but also to subtilise the humour. For if at first you use cold things and repercussives, you will condense the skin through which the humours ought to exhale and impact the humour into the substance of the flesh, and make it the more contumacious to be dissolved; whereby the complexion is made more black and swarthy. Prepare then a Decoction of figs, raisins of the Sun washed and stoned, oatmeal, soap, french barley, the leaves of pellitory of the wall, camomile, mallows, violets; receive the fume of this Decoction up into the face, covering the face and neck with a napkin, to keep the fume from dissipating: continue this three or four times that the face may be supple, and the skin fitted to receive the virtue of your medicines the better. Instead of this Decoction, you may spread on the visage the warm blood of a pigeon, pullet, or capon drawn newly from under their wings; let the blood lay on all night, in the morning wash it off with warm water, or the decoction of soap, oatmeal, or the like. Or else in the place of these remedies, Take fresh flesh of a neck of beef, veal, or mutton, cut two or three thin slices, lay them on the red places, and change them often, or else they will stink: And in case you have no fresh flesh, you may take slices of stolen, put them on the coals, and so apply them warm to the redness. The next morning wash the face with fine rags dipped in the forementioned decoction. When you find that those remedies do something mitigate the fiery colour of your face, and assuage the pimples, you may proceed to other medicines, that have virtue to repercuss the thin and subtle blood, and bind the skin that it may not be so apt to receive such noxious vapours, nor long retain them. Such are these that follow: Take a pint of rose water, put it into a glass, and steep therein camphire and sulphur finely powdered, of each one ounce, myrrh and frankincense of each half an ounce, set it in the sun twelve or fifteen days. Often wash the face with water: Take Brimstone one ounce, ceruse washed two drams, juice of limmons half a pint, juice of onions two ounces, cuttle bones and camphire, of each one dram: pound what is to be pounded, and incorporate your powders with your juices; anoint the face therewith going to bed, in the morning wash it off with the decoction of bran. Take the roots of the greater and lesser serpentary of each one ounce, bruise them, & boil them with as much water of plantain, roses, water lilies and vinegar, as will suffice to bring them to a mash, then beat them in a mortar with oil of roses two ounces, adding the finest powder of oyster shells one dram and a half, camfre one scruple, Venetian ceruse two drams, salt, powdered brimstone, of each one dram, juice of citrons one ounce; make all these into a Lineament for your use. Take lethargy of gold, sulphur vive, of each half an ounce, powder and put them into a glass with vinegar and rose-water; moisten a fine rag in this water, apply it to the face all night, in the morning wash with bran and water. Take sulphur vive one ounce, lethargy and ceruse, of each half an ounce, powder and incorporate them with two ounces of fresh lard, well washed with the juice of citrons, adding a little camphire, beat them sometime in a mortar, then keep it stopped in a glass for your use. Or, boil strong vinegar with bean and rose water, soak white rags therein, and apply them to the face. If your red pimples yield to none of these external remedies, you must have recourse to things more violent. Some use Vesicatories made of Cantharideses and Soap mixed together. Others flay the Epidermis, or superficial skin of the face, with aqua fortis, and after skin it with other waters. But such medicines are too offensive to the face, by reason of inflammations, and greater redness that happen too often through such tampering. It were better, if necessity compels you, to apply sublimate and quicksilver, for they are much safer than Vesicatories, or aqua fortis, so they be prepared after that fashion which I shall here describe. To prepare Quicksilver, choose that which is most clear, white, and fluid; strain it through a sheepskin, it will cleanse it of all its dross, (the oftener you strain it, the purer 'twill be,) then boil it in vinegar with sage, rosemary, time, camo. mile, melilot, then strain it again through a sheepskin, at last mortify it with juice of limmons or fasting spittle. Being thus prepared, it may with little danger be mixed with ointments, plasters, or waters. Others steep quicksilver in strong vinegar and salt, for ten or twelve days, changing the vinegar and salt every day, than they purify it with the crumb of hot white bread in an earthen pot three or four times, than they pass it nine or ten times thorough a sheepskin, and at last mortify it with juice of limmons. Sublimate is prepared divers ways, the most assured preparation for our purpose is this following. Take Sublimate four ounces, bray it in a mortar with a wooden pestle, till you make it so fine that it do not grate betwixt your fingers, then moisten it with juice of limmons beating it all the while: then take quicksilver, prepared carefully as you were taught before, one ounce, work it together with the sublimate in the mortar (wherein you should have first pounded half a dozen almonds, to make the mortar slippery and the sublimate more easy to powder) after this work them well together with a wooden pestle for the space of 3 or 4 days without ceasing, especially the first day taking no rest; when you have beat it one whole day, add one pound of the whitest Salt calcind, the next two days work and incorporate them together, so that of black or grey it may become white as snow, and if at 3 days end it be not sufficiently white, continue your trituration till it be so: when this is done put it into a pot well glazed, pour thereon a sufficient quantity of spring water, stir it about with a wooden Spattula, then cover it and let it settle till the water become clear, change the water three or four times for the four first days: then stir and change the water once a day for nine days following, setting it all the while in some shady and moist place. When this is done and the water clear, draw it off by inclination, and put the Sublimate in some vessel to dry in the Sun, stirring it up and down that it may dry the better, then keep it in a leaden pot. The use of Quicksilver prepared as you were taught before is thus, Take lard often washed in vinegar two ounces, prepared quick silver two drams, alum, sulphur vive of each half a dram beat them together in a leaden mortar and make them into an Unguent. Take Lillie roots, roasted under the embers three ounces, pound and strain them, fresh butter and lard washed in vinegar of each one ounce, sulphur vive three drams, juice of limmon six drams, common salt half an ounce, camfre one scruple, work altogether and make it into an ointment. The most efficacious remedies for this distemper are made of Sublimate, the best ways of using it are these. Take Vnguentum citrinum, pomatum washed in juice of limmons of each one ounce, sublimate well prepared half an ounce, ceruse washed in rose water and borace, both finely powdered on a marble, of each two drams. camphre powdered half a dram, incorporate these together, then steep them 2 or 3 days in distilled vinegar. Take sublimate prepared half an ounce, burned borace two drams, grind them on a marble, after make them into little balls with the whites of eggs brought to a water, which upon occasion you may dissolve in rose water to wash the face. But since Sublimate and Mercury though never so well prepared often injure the teeth and cause a stinking breath, it will be good when you apply them to the face, to take something that may withstand such inconveniences; as often as you use them▪ to wash the mouth with oil of sweet almonds, or else to keep a piece of gold in the mouth. When you make any application of quicksilver or sublimate consider whether the face be gross and corpulent, or lean and meager: if it be gross you must mix them with such things as dry exceedingly as borace, ceruse, calcined tartar, unguentum citrinum; if it be lean, you must use them with oil of sweet almonds, pomatum, mucilage of gourd seeds etc. CHAP. II. How to free the face from freckles. FReckles are the product of fuliginous vapours, and like smoke usually molest those most that have the fairest skins: as if beauty jealous of being outvi'd by too clear complexions, did bestow that yellow livery on others which she deserved to wear herself, The best means to remove such disfiguring spots are these. Take Oil of tartar one dram, milk of the figtree, honey of each two drams, incorporate them well together, and bathe the face therewith, Or take cummin seed beaten three ounces, salt two ounces, brimstone one ounce, put them in a marble mortar, and beat altogether with the juice of celandine and urine, make it into an ointment & wash the face there with going to bed, in the morning wash with fair water. Take roots of wild cucumbers, lilies, briony, borage, daffodil, dragonwort, of each one ounce, date stones, bitter almonds of each as much, white coral, meal of lupins and beans, crystal, cuttle bone, nitre, sal gem, white marble burnt, sarcocolla of each two ounces, ceruse five ounces, beat all these into an exceeding fine powder, make them into little balls with the juice of limmons, and dry them in the Sun; when you would use them, take one or two and mix them with Ox or Sheep's gall, and so anoint the face, let it lie on three or four hours, then wash it off with warm water. Take what quantity you please of juice of limmons, put it into a glass bottle, add thereto fine sugar and borace pounded, set it in the Sun eight days, shake it well together once a day: after use it. Or fill a thick & strong glass bottle with rosemary flowers, bury it half a year in a dunghill, having stopped it close; in that time the flowers will be turned to water, wash the face therewith, it is exceeding good against the freckles. Take calcined tartar one pound, mastic one ounce, camphre half an ounce, incorporate them with the whites of eggs and apply it where it is needful. Beat radish seed and dragon roots together, put them in aqua vitae, and set them in the Sun eight days together, then distil them in a Limbeck, and you shall draw a water admirable against all spots in the face. Boil lethargy in white wine vinegar till half be consumed, than strain the vinegar, take a little thereof, mix it with an equal quantity of oil of tartar, it will be as white as milk; bath the freckles therewith. Wash the face with soap and warm water, then moisten the freckles with oil of tartar, or oil of alum, continue this for some weeks. Beat as much sandarack with honey as will make it pretty thick, apply it to the freckles, & keep it on so long till it scorch the skin: then dissolve galbanum with a little nitre in vinegar, and bathe therewith. And when any of these medicines offend the skin wash it with warm water, or anoint with oil of roses, or oil of sweet almonds. CHAP. III. To whiten a tanned visage and to keep the face from Sunburn. AMber haired Hyperion spying faces to dawn with a world of dazzling features, that might rob him of his Persian votives, or withdraw the Heliotrope from its wont homage; to secure his brightness from being eclipsed by such teeming beauties, clouds them in the shady covertures of night, while he makes day to all the world beside: but to make your beams of beauty break through such sable curtains take these prescriptions following. White bryony water two drams, risen water one ounce, the white of one egg, oil of tartar two drams, verjuice one ounce, mix them and wash the face therewith, then dip a linen cloth in it and lay it to the face all night. Mix ceruse with oil of myrtle and white wine, bath the face therewith going to bed. Or take rose water two ounces, woman's milk one ounce, pounded mirth two drams, the white of an egg, beat them together, going to bed wash the tanned places with it. Make pomatum with oil of sweet almonds, wax and camfre. Else take the roots of Showbread, scrape them & press out the juice, boil it to the consistence of honey, then use it to anoint the face. Or mix the powder of cuttle bones with honey, apply it in form of an unguent to the face. To keep the face from Sunburn, you had best wash with water drawn from the whites of eggs, or juice of sour grapes; or anoint the visage with a lineament made of powdered Mastic, and oil omphacine. Or take goats suet well washed in clear water, beat it in a mortar with rose water, strain it through a thick cloth, then take oil of sweet almonds one ounce, sugar candy two drams, camfre half a dram, boil them all together, stirring them continually that they may be white, when it hath boiled a pretty while put it into a glass for your use. If you go abroad in the Sun or Wind anoint the face with it, and 'twill preserve your complexion. Take pepper wort, roots of basil, serpentary the less of each three ounces, boil them in a quart of water, make a lineament to apply to the face for an hour; then take it off and wash with warm water, it is exceeding good to clear the face from Sunburn. Briony roots boiled in oil; or cuttle bones burnt and mixed with honey, if they are applied have the same effects. CHAP. iv To remove running Tetters, or spreading Pustules. Tetters, which some call Ringworms, are the noxious vermin that greatly damage beauties paradise, and crap its fairest flowers; defacing quite the lilies and roses that use to flourish, with a lovely grace, in the fruitful soil of a comely cheek. To secure your faces flowery Elysium from such wasteful infects: Take vinegar of Squills two ounces, aloes powdered two drams, juice of dock roots, oil of tartar, of each half an ounce; incorporate them together in form of an ointment, then apply it. Make a Decoction of dock roots, mallows, fengreek in strong vinegar, and use it: then apply leeches; or make small scarifications, that some quantity of blood may issue forth; then anoint the place with the oil of tartar, or apply dock roots steeped in vinegar. Take sublimate prepared three grains, put it to half a pint of water, put it in a glass into a boiling pot, till the sublimate dissolve: Keep the water as a choice experiment for any spreading tettar or pustule. Take Tartar two drams, alum three drams; powder and incorporate them with the whites of eggs for an ointment, Or, Take sulphur vive two drams and a half, nettle seed one dram, camfre half a dram, fresh butter two ounces, make an ointment, wash it in rose water, then use it. Take plantain water two ounces, white vitriol two drams and a half, alum one dram; mix them to bathe your tetters or pimples withal. Or else, Take grains of paradise half a dram, cloves, gum tragaganth, ginger, of each half an ounce, brimstone six drams; reduce all to a fine powder, to be worked well together with lard, to make an ointment. CHAP. V How to help the Complexion when it is marred with blue and congealed blood, or black and blue, proceeding from a stroke or bruise. THere often happens an effusion of the blood betwixt the flesh and the skin, where it stays and is congealed, to the great disadvantage of the face: The cause of this distemper may be either internal, as corrupted blood in the body; or external, as a cold, chilling air, stroke or fall. If the cause be internal, powder rhubarb, steep it some days in strong vinegar, and bathe the face therewith: Or, chew in the morning fasting, cummin or mustard seed, or calamus aromaticus, and anoint the face with it. Turnips boiled in honey; aloes mixed with honey; or honey incorporated with the ashes of garlic, are exceeding good in this case. When this blewness of the visage proceeds from cold, there is nothing better than to chafe the face often with the hand or a course cloth, or else, which is more effectual, you may use for a Fomentation aqua vitae warmed. If after a fall or bruise, the face, or any other part remain bluish, it will be convenient to discuss the congealed blood, which may conveniently be done thus: Take the roots of marsh mallows, of the great and lesser serpentary, of white lilies, wash them clean, pound and boil them to a mash in rain water, mix it with the oil of tartar and dears suet, adding a little camphre and make it into the form of an unguent. Take the kernels of peaches pounded four ounces, gored seed two drams, mix and pound them together, then press out the juice or rather oil; you shall find it exceeding good for any black and blue bruise. Take yellow arsenic, sal ammoniacum one scruple and a half, mix them with the juice of coriander seed in quantity about three ounces, bathe the bruised places with it. Aqua vitae heated and applied to the bruise presently after the stroke with two sponges, changing them as fast as they cool, will take away all signs of the bruise. CHAP. VI To smooth the face disfigured with wrinkles. THE smiling glories of beauty's spring are often nipped with an early autumn; when sharp sithed time cuts those flowery graces down, and shrouds them in the furrows of a wrinkled face. Now to make your verdant features flourish in spite of envious time, or after their decay to smooth the face for a new plantation, Take oil of bitter almonds two ounces, lily roots finely powdered one ounce, make it into an ointment with the oil of roses and a little wax, and so apply it to the faces Take oil of S. John's wort one ounce, oil of myrtle, quinces, water lilies, jesmine, mastic, of each half an ounce, melt all together in an earthen vessel, then take it, from the fire, adding a convenient quantity of rose water, then let it cool and use it. Take thin shave of ivory, make a decoction thereof in water, strain it and keep the thickest, to mix with an equal part of incense and mouth glue, make it into an unguent, anoint the face therewith going to bed, in the morning wash with fair warm water. Wash the wrinkled places with a decoction made with an equal quantity of bryony roots and figs. Or take incense, the scum of silver of each half an ounce, white pepper an ounce, powder all apart, incorporate them with mouth glue, make them up into small bal●, dissolve these in rose water & make a lineament for the face. Take the juice of sweet almonds drawn without fire, honey, the roots of lilies, roasted under the embers and pounded, white wax washed with rose water, make it into the form of a salve, soak a piece of linen therein for a cerecloth, & make a mask of it to lay over the face going to bed. Boil pomegranate pills in white wine and whey, till the wine be consumed and the whole remain like a lineament. Or dry in the Sun wild cucumber & bryony roots, powder them and often wash the face with the powder steeped in wine, afterward wash with cold water. CHAP. VII. How to cure chaps in the Face. WHen the injurious violence of wind or weather hath rend your silken Skins, if you intent to unite the separating parts, you will find these your serviceable cements. Take Staggs suet and Goat's suet of of each half an ounce, burned borace two drams, new wax half an ounce, oil of roses two drams, make it into an ointment and use it. Or else take Capons grease and camfre, mix them and anoint the chaps therewith every night, in the morning wash with bran and water. Some dissolve mouth glue in warm rose water, and anoint the face therewith. Distilled oil of turpentine is very good; so is fresh butter, if you take three ounces of it, and mix it with the mucilage of gum tragaganth, of fleawort seeds, and of quince seeds, of each an ounce and a half, and so make it into the fashion of an ointment for your use. Take kids suet one ounce, oil of the whites of eggs, of sweet almonds, and of pressed henbane seeds of each half an ounce, goose and hens fat of each as much, litharge of silver prepared, washed ceruse, prepared tuttie, red lead of each one dram, saffron one scruple, camfre half a scruple, mix them and with a sufficient quantity of white wax make it into an ointment. CHAP. VIII. Remedies for the Face when it is Burnt or Scalded. IF the face that Magazine of Beauty be supprized by catching flames and blown up into blisters, your securest way will be to allay the fury of that offensive element, thus Take lead burnt and washed two ounces, Goat's suet, white wax, of each one ounce and a half; turpentine six drams, prepared lapis calaminaris, washed ceruse; of each two drams, myrrh, mastic, olibanum, of each one dram, aloes epat. camphre, nitre of each half a dram; mix them and make a plaster. To draw out the fire and take away the inflammation take the whites of two eggs, oil of roses and rose water of each two ounces, work them together and then apply them. Or take two raw onions, salt, Venice soap, bowl armenick, of each an ounce, beat them together in a mortar, adding by degrees as much oil of roses as as will suffice to make it into an ointment. To hinder the rising of blisters and take away pain, you may use this, Hen's dung, the whitest and freshest you can get three ounces, fresh butter six ounces, sage leaves one handful, plantain leaves two handfuls fry them a while over the fire, and anoint the affected part therewith several times a day. Or else you may take old lard, melt it with rose water, than strain it through a clean cloth, when it is cold wash it 6 or 7 times in plantain water, and to half a pound of this lard, add the yolks of 4 eggs; if the pain be vehement, you may mix a dram of opium with it. In case the ulcer be sordid and purulent, make application of this; Take the inner rind of green elder, oil of roses of each half a pound, boil them with a gentle fire, strain them and add oil of the yolks of eggs two ounces, frankincense two drams, tuttie one dram, wax enough to make it into an ointment. To make the cicatrice smooth and fair, wash the ulcer after it is sufficiently cleansed with plantain water having first dissolved therein a little alum, being washed, strew thereon some metallique powder, either of tuttie, ceruse, litharge burnt and washed. CHAP. IX. To beautify the Face howsoever disfigured. THis chapter Ladies, makes you a present of universal remedies, that will fortify your faces against any distemper, and in spite of all the maladies that beauty is subject too, make them matchless: the only inconvenience that I fear from them is, that some of ye when ye look in your glasses, may fall in love with your own shadows, and so linger away Martyrs to yourselves. The oil or water of Talque applied to the face makes it as white as alablafter. The manner of preparing it is this, Take talque, the most tender & transparent you can get, what quantity you please, slit it into thin slices, put them into a glass viol for the space of ten or twelve days, with the juice of limmons, during the frost in winter; make a bag of the thickest cloth you can procure, put the former steeped Talque into the bag, with the hardest river flints, let the bag when close tied be rubbed together by two men, till the talque be exceeding finely powdered, then take it out and put it into a earthen pot that is not glazed, with a narrow mouth, stop the vessel and biud it well about with strong wire, than put it into a reverberatory for the space of 12 hours, then take it from the fire by degrees, when it is cool powder it with as much speed as you can (lest it draw and take in the air,) on a marble, than put it into a bag, with a hook at bottom whereon to hang a vessel to receive the liquor, then hang the bag with such a vessel in a deep well, about a fathom from the water, for the space of 30 or 40 days, until the humidity gins to drop: then take it up and put it in some moist place where neither air nor wind comes, leave it hanging till all the moisture be dreind away, the liquor which you receive is the water of Talque: by the same means you may make oil of Talque, if you put that which remains in the bag into a Retort giving fire to it by degrees till you draw all the oil forth: this is the most usual and experienced way of preparing water or oil of Talque. Others prescribe this method, Take of the best talque what quantity you please, slice it into thin leaves, then calcine it thus, take sulphur finely powdered, make one strewing of it in a crucible, than put a laying of talque, after cover it with more sulphur, using this method till you have put in what quantity you please, and remembering there be more talque then sulphur, and that it be always in the middle of the sulphur: cover the crucible, lute it well, and bind it about with wire, set the crucible in a strong fire, for six hours, afterward pound it and pass it through a searce, then wash it well in hot water, till the water be fresh, then pour of the water by inclination and leave the Talque to dry; when it is dry put it again into a crucible, and put it to the fire for other twelve hours. Next, Take one pound of this Talque, sal armoniac two ounces, powder them carefully together, put them in a moist place, and leave them there till they dissolve into a water; when it is dissolved, separate the two waters by a gentle inclination, taking heed you do not mix the waters. The water which is clear and uppermost is the water of sal armoniac; that which is at bottom, is the water of Talque, which is as white as pearl, filter it and keep it carefully in a glass; it makes the face as white as snow, and may be used by a Princess. Take sweet almonds blanched, four pound; sandarach, mastic, ceruse, sulphur vive, of each two ounces, gum tragaganth one ounce; whites of eggs three ounces; beat them together, and leave them to macerate seven or eight days, beating them together once a day, then heat them till they begin to smoke, after press them, and you shall have ●n oil excellent good to beautify the face. Or else going to bed chew five or six peeled almonds, than put them in a linen cloth and bathe the face therewith. Or, Take oil of tartar, mingle it with distilled vinegar in the palm of the hand, adding a little camphre, and use it to bathe the face. Dissolve in fair water Ceruse one pound, strain it through a thick cloth, leave that which is strained in a vessel one night till the Ceruse be settled to the bottom; pour off the water, and dry the Ceruse in the Sun, covering it with a cloth that it lose not its whiteness; when it is dry, add thereto a like quantity of starch and gum dragant: keep the mixture, and when you would use it, mix it with a little Woman's or Ass' milk, wash your face therewith going to bed; in the morning wash with water wherein wheat flower hath been boiled; continue this twelve or fifteen days. Ceruse, since it is so excellent to whiten and clear the face, and seeing there are sundry sorts of it, I will here give a direction or two for their several preparations. Ceruse of Wheat is made thus: Take what quantity you please of the finest french Wheat, steep it in fair water five or six days till it burst, then strain it and beat it a little; then strain it again in other clean water, then strain it again thorough a cloth; when it has stood a little, and the water is something clear, pour off that water and pour on another, beat it together a long time, strain the juice into more water, than set it in the Sun till the water be clear, then pour off the water gently, and to the sediment which remains in the bottom add more water; do this, continuing the change of water morning and evening, for six days together, keeping the vessel continually covered, and in the day time setting it in the Sun; on the seventh day pour off the water by a gentle inclination, setting that which remains in the bottom to dry in the Sun; after it is dried, powder it finely and keep it close stopped in a glass. This Ceruse is of singular virtue to whiten, clear, and polish the skin; Tuke then one ounce of this Ceruse, white Coral and Borace, of each half a dram; Nitre one scruple; reduce them all to a very fine powder, and when you would use it, dissolve one part thereof in rose-water with camphre and musk; bath your face with it going to bed, in the morning wash with water and the crumb of white bread. The Ceruse of the roots of either of the Serpentaries, is thus prepared; Take the roots in July or August, slit them into little round slices, put them on a string some distance one from the other, and so dry them in the Sun, after powder them as fine as possible, then sift the powder and mingle it with fair water, strain it through a fine cloth so often, till the whole substance of the root pass through the streiner; then set the thickened water in the Sun ten or twelve days, in which time you are to let it stand covered twelve hours without meddling with it, that the root may settle to the bottom; then pour the water off gently and put in clear, stirring it up and down that the water and the powder of the root may mix together; change the water after the same manner twice a day, during the said ten days, at last pour off the water without putting in more, and leave the Ceruse to dry in the Sun; when it is dry, powder and incorporate it with rose-water (camphorated and scented with musk) as much as will suffice to make it into small balls, which you most dry in the Sun and keep in a glass vessel. When you would use them, dissolve them in rose-water to wash your face withal at night, the next morning wash with water of Lilies. This Ceruse is exceeding good to take away all stains, spots and freckles from the face. After the same manner is made the Ceruse of the roots of Briony, wild Cucumbers, Water lilies. Thus much concerning the preparation of Ceruses. Take lethargy of silver and gold of each one dram, put them into strong white Wine vinegar, adding camfre and alum of each half a scruple, musk and cloves to sent the Composition; boil all in a little vinegar, than filter and keep it; then boil a little rock alum in water, keep it a part; for your use mingle these two waters together, and bathe the face, neck, or breasts. Take Camfre one dram, alum, borace two drams, oil of tartar one ounce; all being finely powdered, boil them in two quarts of rose-water, strain and keep it; 'Tis excellent to whiten the face, neck, or breasts. Take bitter Almonds peeled one pound and a half, the whites of thirty eggs with their shells, the tender branch of a figtree cut into small bits, incorporate them together, and distil them in a glass alembick over a gentle fire; add to the water which you draw, sugar candy, borace, and camphre, of each one ounce, olibanum two ounces; pounded all small, then still them again; and preserve the water that you draw, as a secret to beautify either the face or breasts. CHAP. X. How to fasten the Hair, and keep it from falling off. HAir (Ladies) is the silken fringe to Beauty's bed; or if you will, the slender sleaves that nature spins for Cupid, thereof to wove his heart-surprising nets; if once it fails, that amorous god loses a considerable part of his artillery, and after never acts but weakly for ye: So that it concerns ye, who triumph over entangled Captive●, to tender its preservation. You may keep that you already have, a fast Friend to you, thus: Take myrtle berries, galls, emblick myrobalans, of each a like quantity boil them in oil of roses. It is a Receipt as old as Galen, but as good as most, if it doth not succeed, use the next. Take myrrh, pine bark, myrtle leaves, maiden hair, pound them together very well, then add a double quantity of labdanum pounded; put all into white Wine and oil of Radish seed, anoint the head very well with it going to bed; next morning wash it with this bath: Sorrel leaves, maiden hair, emblick myrobalans, boil them in water, and add a little pounded myrrh; it very much fastens the hair. Or else, Take the leaves of Willow, Plantain, rock Alum, boil them in water, adding a little powdered Tutty and Myrrh: make a bath and wash therewith. Take the juice of the youngest Myrtle leaves two ounces, juice of wild Olives four ounces, red Roses dried two ounces, Roman Wormwood two drams, boil all these in a quart of white Wine till half be consumed, then strain it, and add a little powdered labdanum and use it to wash the head. The golden water drawn from honey in a glass still is much commended. Or take the leaves and roots of vervain, put them into oil of green grapes, set them in the sun many days, than strain it and keep it for your use. Take an equal quantity of labdanum, wormwood, juniper berries, nigella seeds, vervain, bind them up in a linen cloth and macerate them five days in oil, there is nothing better to fasten the hair; or to make hair grow. CHAP. XI. Remedies for the want of hair, how to make it grow on any bald place, or there where it never came before. IF some disaster, Ladies, have trod too hard on your heads, & killed those pleasant plants that use to flourish there; you may again attire them with their native beauty and repair all former ruins thus, Take marsh mallow seed, boil it in salad oil 'til it become thick, with this oil anoint the head 6 or 7 times in an hour going to bed; when that is done take what quantity you please of the same seed, boil it well with water and wash the head therewith; it makes the hair come exceeding thick, the same effects hath this which follows, Boil in white wine oil of mastic tree, myrtle and labdanum of each two ounces, maiden hair macerated two days in the same wine four ounces, set them over the fire till the wine be evaporated, after apply it as an ointment to the head. Nigella romana burned & incorporated with honey; Bees and Wasps burnt and incorporated with oil; galls and the ashes of hazel nuts mixed with honey; the kernels of peaches pounded and boiled in vinegar; the cinders of cantharides, southernwhod, maidenhair, lily roots, mixed with bears grease are exceeding good for those that have but thin hair. Take Euphorbium, laurel berries, rocket seed of each two drams, sulphur vive, white hellebore burnt of each half a scruple, make a linement with wax dissolved in oil of laurel; if applied it will soon supply you with hair. If you would cause hair to grow on any bald place, do thus; Pound elm roots, boil them in water till there remain a slimy scum on top, gather that for your use; then rub the bald place with a cloth till it look red, and after anoint it with that scum. Or take pumice stone beaten exceeding fine, rub the skin therewith so long as you can endure it, then bathe it with vinegar, mixed with an equal quantity of nitre, sal armoniac, sulphur vive; your own experience will approve it. Take barley bread and salt, role them up in parchment, burn them in a crucible and reduce them to a powder, which make into an ointment with bears grease. It is a secret of nature. Or take cantharides, fling away the head and feet, rub them on the bald place and so leave them, blisters will rise first and then hair, CHAP. XII. How to take away hair and keep it from growing again. WHen the Lilies and Roses of your Faces Elysium, are o'ertopped by the hasty growth of superfluous excrescencies, you may secure the glorious hue of your beauty's pride, and eradicate those aspiring weeds that disturb you, by taking Quick lime four ounces, auripigmentum one ounce and a half, Florentine iris root one ounce, sulphur, nitre, of each half an ounce, lie made with the ashes of bean stalks one quart; mix all together and boil it so long in a glazed earthen pot till putting a pen therein all the feathers peel off, then add half an ounce of the oil of spike or any other perfume; and from what part of the body soever you are minded to take away the hair, anoint it with this unguent and in a quarter of an hour you shall find the effects; but remember when the hair falls away to anoint with oil of roses. Take Orpiment and quick lime of each an ounce and a half, the seeds of fleawort and henbane of each half an ounce, sublimate two drams, ivy gum one dram and a half, opium one scruple, pound all small and steep them in as much common lie as may cover them four fingers, then boil them as the former. Take quick lime half a pound, steep it in common lie or urine, add to it half an ounce of orpiment, boil it to the consistence of a syrup. As for the use of the foregoing medicines, you are to foment the place with warm water a little before you apply them; a quarter of an hour after wash with hot water, and when the hair is taken away anoint the place with some cooling oil as oleum rosat, oil of henbane, the ointment of Rhasis camphorated. After that the hair is taken from any part, if you would keep it from growing again, take the gall of a Hedgehog, the ashes of muscle shells burnt, mix them with bat's blood and use it as an ointment. Or else bats blood, the juice of ivy and radish roots, goats gall, mix and use them, or take opium and henbane finely beaten, mix them with vinegar so anoint therewith; any of these will keep the hair from ever growing: the same effects have these following. Take the blood of Frogs, terra sigillata, sumach, roses of each as much as shall be sufficient, beat them together and steep them in the juice of nightshade for four & twenty hours, then distil them & wash with the water the depilated places. Take ivy gum, emmets eggs, orpiment, colophony of each one ounce, leeches burnt half an ounce; grind and mingle them with frogs blood and make an ointment. Take juice of henbane, sanguis draconis, gum arab. frankincense of each three drams, juice of nightshade as much as will suffice to make it into an ointment. CHAP. XIII. How to make the hair Curl. TWining curls are now much the mode, and none thought paragons for Beauty, save those whose graceful locks do reach the breasts and make spectators think those ivory globes of Venus are upheld by the friendly aid of their crispy twirls. If any affect the fashion they may serve themselves with these directions so advantageously, that none shall desire to be free that may have the glory to be fettered with their curled hair. Take gall nuts, filings of steel, cypress leaves, quince seeds as much as you please; quick lime half as much as either of the first, steep them in water wherein rye hath been boiled, let it stand one day, then boil it to the thickness of honey, anoint the hair therewith and curl it up going to bed. Boil salt in water, gather the scum thereof & mix it with myrrh, it is marvellous in curling the hair. Some to make their hair curl wind it up going to bed upon a hot Tobacco pipe or iron. Others dissolve gum arabic or mouth glue in water, moistening the hair, with it, afterward they let it dry. Some instead thereof use the white of an egg or else bear or ale. But to give you farther & better directions, first rub the hair well with lie or urine, that so it may be washed very clean: then take 20 oak galls, maiden hair two ounces, and as much salt water boiled to the consistence of honey, work them all well together, and for two days anoint the hair therewith, on the third wash it with this following Bath. Boil firn roots, beet leaves of each a like quantity so long in water, till a third part of the water be consumed, then take it from the fire, put in a little gum arabic and when it is cool use it. Take oil of fenugreek, oil of white henbane, mix therewith myrrh and gum arabic, and use it for an ointment. Or take beets and myrtle a like quantity, dry them in the shade, powder them, then mingle one ounce of the powder with two ounces of oil olive, and use it as the other. Take mallow roots, seeds of flax and psyllium, boil them a long time together, strain it and wash the hair therewith. Or make lie with oak ashes, boil therein nutgals, roots of dane wort, maiden hair, afterwards dissolve therein a little lethargy, bowl armeniake, gum dragant, wash the hair with it, when it is dried in, anoint with oil of myrtle. CHAP. XIV. To make the Hair Lank and flag. THE bushy forest of the head is sometimes labarinthed with mazie and rude maeanders; while the locks themselves retreat in such recoiling twirls, as if they rook the breasts for a pair of snowy mountains, and were afraid their tender tops should touch them: they may be forced to extend themselves to a pleasing length if you follow these prescriptions. Take oil of lilies, oil of roses, of each one ounce, oil of violets two ounces, green marsh mallows finely beaten three ounces: boil them altogether, anoint the hair throughly therewith, combing it afterward very well. Take borage, mallows, beat them small and work them well together with common oil, let them stand together in a warm place a day & a night; next morning put them in an alimbeck, & distil them o'er a gentle fire the water that you draw from them, keeps the hair from frizzling and makes it flag and smooth, Take oil of roses four ounces, work it well together in a great bottle with an equal quantity of fair spring water, then anoint the hair, twice a day therewith. CHAP. XV. To lengthen the Hair. Hair though an excrement, is yet carefully cherished as a plant of value: for most fancy it to be the microcosmical flax whereof Cupid twists his bowstrings. To see it (I confess) in the female sex, of a more than usual length is a pleasing spectacle, and if therebe any Lady that desire it, she may by these means efffect her wishes. Use first this unguent, take a wild gourd, hollow it within, fill it with oil of laurel, orpiment, henbane leaves, boil it over the fire and anoint therewith: then use once a week this bath following. Take agrimony, elm bark, vervain, boil all in a sufficient quantity of water, till the third part of the water be consumed and wash therewith while it is warm. Take the hardest and stiffest honey, boil it for some while over the fire, into three pound of this honey, while it is over the fire, break 20 eggs, take them out when they are hard and put in so many more; at last take only the yolks of the eggs and beat them with the honey into a past, then put them into an alembick, and with a gentle heat, draw from thence a liquor to wash the hair withal, if you would increase its length. Take lavender, white sanders, cardamons, costus of each one ounce, in the spring time steep all these for 24 hours in a pint and a half of the best white wine, than set it on the fire that you may receive the vapour of the decoction up into the hair, afterward wash the head with it. Take old white lard three pound, mince and beat it small till it come to a past, then distil it in a limbick, and keep the water that arises from it to anoint the hair; it will make the hair of a fair length & soft. Take willow peel, wormwood and southernwood, dried roses of each two ounces steep them in a quart of fair water for a night or two, then set it over the fire till a third part of the water be evaporated, keep it and often wash the hair with it. Take the ashes of maidenhair, politrik, reed roots, flax seed; make a lie of all these ashes, wherein dissolve a little myrrh, adding thereto a third part of whitewine and then use it. CHAP. XVI. To soften the Hair when too harsh and stiff. THE Hair on some hangs like thatch on a country Cottage, and serves more for use then ornament; to secure them from the impetuous injuries of wind and weather, rather than with its soft and tender sleaves, to delight admiring eyes. Such stiff bristles are usual attendants to churlish Corydons, who are represented by nothing better than the parallel emblem of surly swine. Those then who desire a more graceful covering, and and would alter the harsh conceit that others are apt to entertain of their hoggish natures, may to their great advantage use these directions. Take the roots of galingale, fig leaves, camomile, melilot, myrtle berries what quantity you please, make thereof a decoction wherein dissolve salt nitre, and rock alum of each two drams adding the like quantity of pumice stones and cuttle bones; set all over a gentle fire, and while it is warm, bathe the head therewith before the fire or else in the Sun. Take the roots of white and black hellebore, briony, birthwort round and long, wake Robin, dry, and then powder them, afterward rub the hair well therewith. Or else make a lie of vine twig ashes, wherein boil the meal of beans, vetches, barley and lupins, strain the lie and add thereto a little white wine; then use it. Take Emmets eggs, henbane seed, rock alum, psyllium and opium, of each a like quantity, boil them in distilled water of vinegar, bathe the hair well therewith, when you have done this, make this powder, Take salt Nitre, four ounces, Pumice stone powdered two ounces, Lily roots and Cuttle bone, of each two drams; beat them all very fine and rub the hair with it. After you have done this, use again the former Decoction. Take white Saunders and Rhodium, of each two ounces, Myrrh and white Amber, of each two drams, Gentian roots one dram; powder these, and use it: If it be for any person of quality, you may add two or three grains of Musk. This Powder is excellent good for the hair. CHAP. XVII. Remedies for the Hair when it splits. When Nature hath spun the slender hair to its utmost length, if it be not carefully kept, 'twill be frayed and raveled at ends by sundry accidents, which seem to envy that work they cannot better. Your best provision against such injuries, are these; When you go to bed, Take Oil and Water a like quantity, put them into a bottle and incorporate them well together, anoint the hair well with it going to bed, next morning wash it with this following; Take marsh mallows, fleabane, willow bark, boil them in spring water, and use it to wash the head. This will keep the hair from splitting, but if it be split already, you must use this: Take Myrtle and Willow leaves of each two ounces, powdered labdanum six scruples, emblick myrobalans powdered half a dram, oil of Myrtle four ounces, white wine two ounces; boil all these over a gentle fire to a consumption of the third part, then use it to anoint the extremities of the hair therewith. Take the juice of Willow leaves and Myrtle leaves, of each one ounce, boil and evaporate half a way, after add powdered labdanum one ounce, then mix all with oil of myrtle; keep it for your hair. CHAP. XVIII. To make the Hair of what colour you please. YEllow Hair was much in request among the ancients, whence the Poet Forma placet nivensque color flavique capilli. Yet now this colour is loaded with obloquys; for 'tis a fancy generally received, that the locks can never sparkle with golden flames without, except there be some cherishing heat of lust within: so that of late Black is more the fashion, being looked upon as a quality congregating not the sight only, but hearts and affections too. To make the Hair yellow. If any Lady be in love with this colour, she may order her hair thus; Take shave of Box, stechas, cedar, liquorice roots scraped and bruised, coltsfoot roots, maiden hair, of each two ounces, and a little saffron; set all these over the fire till two parts of the water be consumed, then strain it, and wash the hair therewith. Or, Take rock Alum, Sandarach, of each three ounces, Saffron one ounce, Madder four ounces, Vine twig ashes two drams; beat the ashes very small with the Madder, boil the mixture in water till half be consumed, then take it from the fire and strain it; afterward add the Saffron, Sandarack, and Alum: keep it close in a bottle; when you would use it, first comb the hair very well, then take a sponge and bathe it with this Composition. When it is dry, wash it with water wherein Fengreek, Barley, Cumin and Soap have been boiled. Make Lie with the ashes of Ivy bark, wherein boil over a gentle fire Madder roots, Gentian, Celendine, shaving of Box, yellow Saunders, Liquorice cleansed from its outward bark, of each one ounce, Orange peel, and the inner rind of Barberry tree, of each half an ounce, green Lupins pounded two ounces, Broom flowers, yellow Stoechas, moth Mullein a sufficient quantity of each; bath the hair with a sponge dipped in this Decoction, then dry it gently in with warm evening and morning: use likewise a Comb steeped in this Decoction, it gives a graceful colour to young people's hair. Take the first buds of the black Poplar, pound them with fresh butter, set them in the Sun for five days, then strain them and press out the butter, wash it with lie made of the ashes of Box tree, then use it to anoint the hair. To make the Hair or Beard black, though before grey. The hair, either of head or beard, will be as black as Jet, if you Take the shells of green Walnuts, bark of Oak roots, of each three ounces, the oldest and deepest coloured red Wine, eight ounces; boil them to the consumption of half, then strain the juice and press it hard; whereunto add one pound and a half of oil of Myrtle, set in six days in the Sun in a leaden Mortar, and stir it with a leaden Pestle, then use it. Take burnt Led three ounces, Nutgals, Walnut shells, of each four ounces, terra sigillata the like quantity, Roman vitriol six ounces, sal gem. one ounce and a half, Nutmegs, Cloves, of each one ounce, sal amoniac, aloes, of each half an ounces powder and steep them three days in sharp vinegar, then distil it in an Alembick, and afterward keep it for use. Take quick Lime one ounce, of both the litharges half an ounce; make a mass with the Decoction of Nutgalls and Walnut shells; oil of Camomile two ounces. Or, Take lethargy of gold two ounces, ashes of calcined Tartar half an ounce, quick Lime an ounce and a half; dissolve all in man's urine, till it come to be as thick as an ointment, then use it for the hair. Take Privet and Vitriol, what quantity you please, put them in oil & set it over the fire till it begin to boil, anoint the hair therewith, having a care that it doth not touch the skin, for 'twill make it very black. Dog's urine kept in glass four or five days, if you anoint your hair therewith, will die it of dark black colour. Take lethargy of Silver, quick Lime, Lead, crude Antimony, of each one ounce; pound and infuse them in the distilled water of Walnuts. Or, Take Sulphur, Vitriol, Nutgals, quick Lime, lethargy, of each two drams; powder them fine, and incorporate them with running water to make a mass, wherewith rub the hair going to bed, in the morning wash it off with warm water and white wine. CHAP. XIX. How to cleanse the Hair of Scurf or Dandruff. Dandruff or Scurf is a mealy dust, that over-clouds the hair of the Head, Brows, and Beard: It proceeds from corrupted serous humours, which by reason of their acrimony, corrode the cuticle from the subjacent skin, and fret it into little pieces like bran. Those who are subject to this distemper, if they would ease themselves, must use this method. If the body abound with ill humours, first purge it with some convenient medicine, afterward wash the head, or other part affected, with this Lie; Take the ashes of the roots of Beets and Coleworts, make a lixivium therewith, wherein boil Lupins and Beans, a sufficient quantity; then strain the Decoction, and add a sixth part of Honey. When the Head hath been well washed with this, dry it carefully with a warm course cloth, then anoint it with this Unguent: Take bitter Almonds lightly heated in an oven, old Walnuts, of each six ounces, Sulphur half an ounce, Vitriol two drams, Honey of Squills two ounces, the dregs of old Wine three ounces; make it into a Lineament for your use with red Wax. Take the ashes of Figtree, boil them in water and vinegar till the third part be consumed; then add Lupins and Beans, boil them again till a third part be consumed, take it from the fire, strain and use it. Or boil the roots of wild Cucumbers in vinegar, to the consistence of honey, anoint the Head with it all over. Take Ox gall and salt, temper them with the juice of Beets, anoint therewith two or three days; Then wash with this following Lie: Take the strongest vinegar and fair water, two pound; set it over the fire, and when it gins to boil, put in a little Salt and flowers of Camomile, wash the head often therewith. Take oil of Rue one pound, Soap one ounce, Salt finely beaten half an ounce; work them together into one mass; then wash with this following: Boil Beets, Fengreek, Briony roots, Bean meal, in fair spring water, set all together over the fire till half be boiled away; then take it off, and when it is cool use it to bathe the head withal. CHAP. XX. How to beautify the Forehead. THE Forehead is the Ivory throne where Beauty sits in state, it must therefore be smooth, and raised to a decent height; for if it be too low, 'tis much beneath the grandeur of her commanding majesty; and if furrowed with wrinkles, it will put her too much in mind of humane frailty, to let her take a pleasing recreation there. To make the Forehead high, eradicate the hairs which encroach too much upon its bo●nds, thus, Take as much Mastic as you shall have occasion to use, steep it in warm water till it be so soft, that you can spread it upon a filler, then bind that fillet to the Forchead all night, and in the morning twitch it off. So you may take hair from any part of the body. And when they are thus pulled away, that they grow not again, use these medicines: Take a pretty quantity of Henbane seed, wrap it in a Colewort lease, and roast it under the cinders; then beat it in a mortar and press out the liquor; add to it a little Orpiment powdered, and make thereof a Lineament to apply to the part. Or else, Take the gall of an Eel, mix it with oil of Roses, or the blood of a Bat, and use it. Or, Take quick Lime, Lizards dung, boil them in an equal quantity of vinegar and oil of Henbane, till the vinegar be consumed, make it into an Unguent for your use. To smooth and polish the Forehead when it is wrinkled, Take the shave of Hartshorn, boil them in water till there come a kind of oiliness on top, with the scum of the water, and Bean meal, make a paste, which you must make into small balls. Keep the water wherein you did boil the Hartshorn, and when you have occasion to use it, dissolve so many little balls in a small quantity of the water, as will make it into the thickness of a Cerecloth; apply it to the Forehead all night, and in the morning when you take it off, wash with warm water. Use this method often. Or else, Take your whitest Mutton suet, wash it half a score times in cold water, mix it with the froth of whites of eggs made in a mortar, beating them together with a Pestle and a little butter; then add a little Mastic and Frankincense beaten to powder, and anoint the face often therewith. CHAP. XXI. How to beautify, and adorn the Brows. THe two Brows are Cupid's groves of pleasure, where he shelters himself from the too violent heat of the inflaming eyes. Or rather as a controlling Intelligence made superintendent to the Crystal Sphares below him, he keeps his residence there, that he might with the more facility direct their beamy influences, when and whither he pleases. You may, Ladies, by these means make them beautiful. If the hairs on the brows grow too thick, or irregular, you may pull them up by the rootr with a pair of mullets, and afterward use those means which we have formerly described to keep the hair from growing. If the brows themselves fall too low over the eyes, You must work a little Mastic together with the joyce of Coleworts; and going to bed, put the brow up into its place, and apply the Mastic to it all night in form of a Plaster. When the hair sheds from the brows, the use of those things is good which we have already given you to fasten the hair. Or else, Take the small filings of Lead, and incorporate them with Goose grease to anoint the brows withal. Or if ye please, Take black Henbane seed two drams, Maiden hair one dram, unguentum irinum three spoonfuls, bruise what is to be bruised, afterward make it up with oil into the form of an Unguent to anoint the brows withal, after you have first bathed them with water wherein Myrtle berries have been boiled. The hair that is fallen from the brows, may be made to come again, if you burn Bees or Wasps, and mix them with Honey; but have a care you touch no other place, for wheresoever it lights, it makes the hair grow. If the Kickshaws are of a reddish or white colour, you may make them of a lovely black by these means: Take red filberts, what quantity you please, calcine them thoroughly in an earthen vessel, or crucible, work them together with Goat's grease, anoint the hair therewith, and if it foul the skin, wash it off with warm water: This will make the brows very black. The same effect hath this which follows: Take Maiden hair powdered one ounce, Labdanum two ounces; beat them well together with Bear's grease, and rub the brows therewith. Many use black Led only to rub the brows withal, and if ye do it without soiling the skin, 'twill give them a very pleasing dark colour. CHAP. XXII. Remedies for Inflammation, Bloodshot, or Spots in the Eyes, and yellowness of the Eyelids. SParkling eyes are the starry jewels of a Heavenly face, which with their active influence, and amorous motions rule the restless fate of every Lover: When once those twinkling twins make break of day through their enclosing lids, their piercing beams of glory amuse spectators, and make them pay a tributary devotion to those Crystal Orbs from whence they flow. The beauty of the eyes is much impaird by inflammations, bloodshot, dusky spots, which much eclipse and cloud their splendour. Such vices may thus be remedied: If the eyes be inflamed, you are first to begin with a good diet, and never eat or drink any thing that may send fumet to the head; than you must be careful either to evacuate or divert that humour which causeth the malady, by purging, blood-letting, drawing blisters in the neck, In the next place, apply them that may alter and digest the humour, if it be hot. it is to be done with cold things; as Fndive, Purslane, Nightshade, Rosewater, Woman's milk. If it be a cold rheum that falls into the eye, boil Laurel leaves in white Wine, bind them in form of a Plaster to the eye, or make a Pultice of Celondine with white Wine, apply it to the eye, it both easeth the pain, and takes away inflammation. Or, Take Rue and Fennel roots, beat them well in a mortar; then boil them in white Wine and bathe the eyes with the Decoction. If the pain and pricking be extreme, Take the white of an egg, beat it together with some Poppy water. You may make a very good Plaster for all inflammations thus, Take an equal quantity of Saffron, Myrrh, Opium, gum Arabic; powder and dissolve them in Rosewater, make a Plaster and dry it, and when you have occasion, soften it with Rosewater or the white of an Egg. When the pupil or sight of the eye is covered with any spot, after you have purged the body, bath the eyes with Liquor pressed from Sows or Wood lice, being bruised in a mortar, and in less than thirty days, it will be taken away. Or, apply to the eye a bag full of cummin seed steep in warm white wine. Take prepared tuttie, sugar candy, ginger of each one dram, sarcocol, white tartar of each two drams, musk half a scruple; powder, sift and mix them altogether, and put now and then a little of it in the eye. Take the seeds of fennel, parsley, wild parsnip, anise, carroway, roots of celendine, sorrel, betony, leaves of agrimony, tormentil, rue, vervain of each a like quantity, pound them all, and the first day steep them in white wine, the second in woman's milk, on the third distil them: keep the liquor close stopped in a vessel, and put two drops of it into the eye every day, it will take away all spots whatever. To help the eyes when they are bloodshot, take green wormwood pound and mix it with the white of an egg, bind it warm to the eye; the second time that it is applied it will core you. Mix the crumb of warm white bread, with the yolk of an egg, shut the eye and lay it upon it. Or soak unwashed wool in an equal quantity of oil of violets, whites of eggs, juice of rue and apply it to the eye. If the lower lid of the eye in the cavity of it be of a tawny swarthy colour, you may by these means remedy it. First let the Physician remove the principal cause, then take oil of fenugreek and anoint the discoloured places with all. Or else anoint them with the oil of Cedar, which is exceeding good to take away such ill colours. Take some Pomegranate peels and press them, anoint the lids with the juice, and 'twill make them return to their former colour. CHAP. XXIII. To alter the ill colour of the eyes and how to make them bigger or less. ALL colours do not equally grace the eyes: they are Cupid's torches, that should shine with a splendent flame, and never burn too blue; which is a colour looked upon as fatal, and never more aptly placed then in Bellona's (Mars' grim-lookt sisters) eye. Neither again do all dimensions suit with their office; they are Cupid's crystal quivers, and must not be too big for that little archer, nor yet so small as not to contain his magazeen of shafts. Those that have eyes of an ill colour, if they would have them black let them take Antimony washed and dried five ounces, lapis lazuli one ounce, musk, camfre of each three grains, wood of aloes two ounces, frankincense three ounces, saffron half an ounce: make a very fine powder of all these, at night when you go to bed put a little of it into the eyes, in the morning they will be black as if they had been so naturally. Gioranni Marienallo an Italian, saith he hath often made proof of this which was communicated to him by an Armenian. Take acacia, galls of each an equal quantity, powder them exceeding small, then mix them with the juice of anemony or wind flower, making it up in the thickness of honey, then pass it through a streiner and keep it for your use in a glass. The same Author exceedingly commends this following. Take henbane flowers, dry them in the shade and keep them: when you have occasion to use them put them into white wine and bathe the eyes therewith, it will make them black. If the eyes be too little through the wasting of the whole body or any other distemper, have respect to the humour which causeth it and purge that, afterward bathe them frequently with a sponge dipped in warm water or in woman's milk newly come from the breast. If they are too big and bear too large a proportion to other parts, make an issue behind in the neck, purge the head and body, drink water, and abstain as much as can be from meats that are strongly nourishing. After this take cotton, anoint it with honey mixed together with saffron, bind it over the eyes going to bed, and often wash them with cold water and salt. CHAP. XXIV. To make the Lips ruddy. PAleness when once it affects the lips, makes the world believe, that those ruby portals of the mouth, have lost their varnish by being too much knocked at▪ Those Ladies whose lips lie under such a suspicion, may beautify them witha coral complexion, thus Take the juice of briony, wild cucumbers, reeds, risen water of each one ounce, clarified honey four ounces, boil all together, strain it and keep it in a glass: it is exceeding good to anoint the lips and gives them a ruddy and vermilion hue. Take the shave of your deepest coloured brasil three ounces, make them into a very fine powder, steep it three days in three pints of fair spring water, then add fix drams of icthyocolla or fish glue bruised and minced, let it stand till it becomes soft and dissolves, than set it over the fire again and add grana tinctoria (chermes berries) four ounces, rock alum one ounce, borace three drams, boil all these till half be consumed, strain it and in a glass vessel keep it close stopped eight days, before you use it. It gives a very amiable redness to pale or blue parts, whether lips or cheeks, that which you put on at one time will last 8 days, in which time it will not be done off either by sweat or water. Take fine filings of brazil two ounces, madder one ounce, Chermes berries half an ounce, infuse them in strong white wine the space of four days then add half an ounce of rock alum and boil altogether to a consumption of half, filter it and keep it for your use. It is of very great efficacy to vermilionize either the lips or cheeks. Of the like virtue is that which follows Take rock alum, fish glue of each one ounce, shave of brasil two ounces, steep all three days in fair water, then boil them, strain them and put them in a glass to use at your pleasure. It will make any pale or bluish part, to be very fair and lively ruddy. CHAP. XXV. How to smooth the Lips when they are rough and chapped. WHen those pretty sister Rubies, have been kissed too hard, either by a chilly and cold mouthed Boreas, or a scorching and hot lipped Sol; to repair the breaches such rude embraces make on their cherry Skins, use these things following Ladies, they will make them seem such smooth and blushing wax, as Cupid will think himself honoured to imprint his kisses on. Take Stags suet two pound, fresh lard six ounces, wash them often in white wine, then work them well together till all the white wine be pressed out, then put it into an earthen glazed vessel. adding nardus Indicus three grains, cloves half an ounce, nutmegs two drams, seven or eight pippins pard, cord and sliced, steep all these one whole day in a sufficient quantity of rose water, then keeping it covered, set it over a gentle fire, stirring it up and down with a wooden spatula till all the rose water be evaporated, strain it through a thick cloth into a clean vessel half full of rose water; let it stand till the suet be cold, and swim on the top of the water, than put it again into an earthen pot, adding oil of sweet almonds six ounces, Virgins wax four ounces, melt all these over the fire, strain it again into rose water through a thick cloth, let it as before stand till it is cold, then take that off which swims on the top of the rose water and wash it well in some scented water till it be as white as snow; then keep it for your use in a dry place that it do not mould. Some add to this pomatum, coral finely powdered to make it the more drying; others add juice of alkanet to give it a vermilion colour; there is nothing better than this for any chaps whatever. Make an ointment of oil of roses and a little wax anoint the lips therewith, or champ a little gum tragagant in your mouth and afterward moisten your lips with your tongue. Take oil of violets, mucilage of quince seeds, hens fat of each one ounce, lethargy and gum dragant of each one dram, make them into an ointment and apply it to the lips. All fat's and marrows are very good. Take the mucilage of quince seeds, oil of mastic of each one ounce, goose fat, beef marrow of each half an ounce, a little new white wine, make these up into an ointment with as much wax as shall suffice. Or take a fine linen rag dip it in the juice of housleek, and apply it to the lips. Michael Notre dame a Frenchman much commends cotton dipped in common oil and laid to the navel going to bed. It is an easy thing and soon tried. CHAP. XXVI. Remedies for such vices as are incident to the Nose. BEauty is a nice & cleanly Dame, that loves to have the nose (though but the sink to convey filth from the brain) kept neat and handsome, as well as the other parts which are designed for more honourable uses. Staunch and snivel do very much impair the credit of this patt. The staunch of the nostrils proceeds sometimes from a fool stomach; for if the kitchen be nasty the chimney seldom sinels well, if this be the cause, you must have recourse to the Physician. But sometimes the fault is in the nose itself, as when it is affected with some fore or ulcer, than you may follow this method. Take Calamus Aromaticus, damask roses, galingale, lavender, reduce all into a fine powder, then sift it and snuff it up into the nostrils. Or take one scruple of London Theriacle, dissolve it in white wine and draw it several mornings up into the nose. Take Roses, Cloves, lignum aloes of each two drams, Spicknard one dram, Musk two grains, powder what is to be powdered and make them all into a past, with the best white wine, and so make them into little pills; when you would use them, dissolve one in a little rose water and drop it into the nostrils, but first wash the nose well with white wine, wherein roses and lavender have been boiled; this will both cure the distemper & cause a sweet breath. If the nose be to much charged with snivel; the frequent use of gentle clysters and vomits is very good. Or else anoint the head with some heating oil, if it be a cold distillation; and with a cooling oil, if it be a hot. When you go to bed, rub the feet with pitch dissolved in oil, and wash the nose in wine, wherein put a little powdered myrrh; By the use of these things you may sufficiently purge the dregs, which distil from the beak of your dropping Alembick. CHAP. XXVII. How to fasten, cleanse, and preserve the Teeth. Lest the Microcosm might be supprized by any treacherous invader, the teeth are set as ivory Portcullis' to guard its entrance. Or rather Nature hath made the sharpset teeth as so many mincing knives to belong to her kitchen, the Stomach: If they happen through any mischance to be rusted over, the best way to scour them, will be every morning to rub the teeth with powdered Tartar, after wash them with white Wine, if it be in the spring; or with cold water if it be in the summer. Take rock Alum, Salt, Nitre, of each four ounces, pound and dissolve them in Vinegar, then distil them: to one ounce of this water add juice of limmons three ounces, and rub the teeth therewith. Take rock Alum burnt, powdered coral, Sanguis draconis, Pumice stone, powder them all pretty fine, and rub the teeth therewith. Or, Take white Coral, Cuttle bone, white Tartar, dried roots of Florentine iris, of each a like quantity, a little Alum: Make of them all a fine powder, and keep it dry to rub the teeth. Take caleined Salt three drams, Galingale two drams, Hartshorne burned four drams, flowers of Schoenanthum and Roses dried, one dram; make them into a Powder to rub the teeth with. If the teeth be very black, you may touch them slightly with oil of Sulphur or Vitriol, but not too often. When the teeth are lose, your best way to fasten them, will be to Take Galls, Pomegranate flowers, Cyperus, Roses, Sumach, a like quantity of each; Take half the quantity of these in rock Alum, powder all, and rub the teeth and gums therewith. Or else, Take Galls one ounce, Myrrh half an ounce, Pomegranate bark one scruple; boil them in vinegar, and make a Gargarism to wash the mouth. Some dissolve Alum in vinegar to wash the mouth withal. To keep the teeth from rotting, Take calcined Hartshorne, cypress leaves, of each one dram, Cinkfoyle roots two drams, Maiden hair burned one dram, Rose leaves a dram and a half; bring all into a powder and use it as a Dentifrice to rub the teeth with. It makes them white, and keeps them sound. If the teeth are already rotten and corroded, Take Opium, Myrrh, Storax, of each one dram, white Pepper, Galbanum, Saffron, of each half a dram, beat them together and apply them to the corroded tooth. Or, Take Pepper, Pellitory of Spain, juice of Spurge, Galbanum, of each a like; mix altogether, and put it into the rotten tooth. Boil Sage leaves in wine, wash the teeth well therewith; then, Take black Hellebore, mix it with Honey, and put it into the hollow tooth. Others only put burnt Alum into it, and find much good by it. CHAP. XXVIII. To Sweeten the Breath. WHen your breath, Ladies, by reason of exulcerated Lungs or rotten Teeth, sends forth a staunch more noisome than old Satur's sweaty socks, make your application to these following medicines, and you shall embalm the air with so rare a scent, that all the aromatic fumes of Flora's garden, shall never enrich it with a more delicious sweetness. Take Cloves, Nutmegs, Cinnamon, of each one ounce, Mace, sweet Saunders, of both half an ounce, Wood of Aloes an ounce and a half, Musk half a dram; after you have powdered these, make them up (with Rose-water, Sugar, and gum Tragant) into small bullets, to hold in the mouth. Take wood of Aloes, Galingale, Myrtle leaves, three sorts of Myrabolans prepared, Cinnamon, Mace, Pepper, Ginger, Nutmegs, Cardamons, Laurel berries, of each two drams, Musk, Amber, Camfre, of each half a dram, Sugar two ounces; make all into a powder, and take one dram thereof in a morning; it is exceeding good to strengthen the Stomach, and sweeten the breath. Or else, Take gum Tragant one ounce, Sanguis Draconis two drams; sleep them two days in Rosewater, than put them into a mortar, adding an ounce of Sugar, Starch half an ounce, Musk dissolved in Rosewater one scruple; pound them well, then mix them together with a Spatula, and make them up into little pellets as big as barley corns, dry them, and after that they are thoroughly dried, put one now and then into your mouth, and let it dissolve. Take Cinnamon half an ounce, cloves two drams, nutmegs, mace, citron pill, of each one dram, Florentine iris, the lesser galingale, of each half a dram, yellow Saunders, wood of Aloes, of each one scruple, ambergris, musk, of each half a scruple; steep them when they are powdered in a quart of the best Malmsey Wine ten or twelve days, then strain it through a woollen cloth, afterward put it into a Bottle, and keep it close stopped for your use. Take a spoonful or two of it in the morning fasting; it sweetens the breath exceedingly, and strengthens the heart and stomach. If the breath be infected by rotten teeth, Take the best Styrax two drams, sweet Asa one dram, the best iris root half a dram, gallia moschata, yellow sanders, of each one scruple: Distilled oil of Roses half a scruple, mix them; and with a little gum tragant, dissolved in cinnamon water, make a mass; out of which you may form little long pills to put into the hollow teeth. When the breath smells of Garlic, Onions, or any thing else that is eaten, Take coriander seeds, or zedoary, chew them in the mouth, and drink a good draught of Wine after, it will take away the sent of any thing that was eaten before. The same effect hath Mint if it be chewed in the mouth. Fennel seeds, or Galingale champt after the drinking of Wine, takes away the smell of the Wine; so do sour Apples and Quinces. CHAP. XXIX. How to beautify the Neck. NOthing more commends the Neck for comely, than to be white and smooth; for 'tis a part usually exposed to sight, and aught to represent a Pillar of polished ivory, that supports the head with a lustre becoming that place where the understanding seats his throne. It is usually impaird by Kernels, Kings evil, hard tumors, and Swell. For Kernels (which usually breed in those places where the emunctuaries of the nobler parts are) if they come in the neck, (after the body hath been purged, and the Cephalicke vein opened in the arm) apply mollifying and discussive Fomentations, with sponges dipped in strong vinegar, then apply a Plaster of Oxycroceum, adding a little gum ammoniac, bdellium, sagapenum, opoponax, powder of euphorbium. For the Cure of the King's evil, the powder of Sarsaparilla, drunk to the quantity of half a dram, for forty days, morning and evening, in white Wine, avails marvellously. The like operation have all your nitrous and vitriolic waters; for an external Plaster, you may use Emplastrum divinum. In Autumn, Take the root of Scrofulary, beat it together with fresh butter, put it into an earthen vessel well covered in a moist place, leave it so fifteen days, then melt the butter over a gentle fire, strain it and use it to anoint the place. Take a live Mole skinned, three or four Serpent's skins, the roots of Scrofulary, Solomon's seal, Briony, wild Cucumbers, of each three ounces, boil them together in an equal part of wine and water, so long till the liquor be evaporated; add at last, a little white Wine vinegar; first anoint the place with two sponges dipped in strong vinegar, and applied as hot as you can endure: then make use of the ointment. The swell and tumors of the Neck, (I mean those which arise betwixt the skin and the aspera arteria) are thus to be ordered. First, purge the body with Cephalick Pills: use a drying and temperate diet: Then, Take sal gem. amber, alum burnt, cuttle bone, nutgalls, long and black pepper, cinnamon, ginger, pellitory of Spain, of each half an ounce; powder all very fine, and add four ounces of Rosewater. Take every morning, in the wain of the Moon, a spoonful of this powder, and so continue using it with your meat: when it is gone, make it again and use it. Foment the place with the Decoction of Briony, wild Cucomers, Beets, Sage, Camomile, Melilot. Or put them all into a bag, and apply them as hot as the Patient can endure; then put on the part affected a plaster of diachylum, to which you may add euphorbium, sulphur, verdigreece. If the beauty of the Neck be any whit impaired by Freckles, Spots, Wrinkles, or Leanness; you may use the same remedies which we have before prescribed for these Maladies, in the Tenth and Twelfth Chapters of the First Part; and the Second and sixth in this Second Part. CHAP. XXX. How to keep the Breasts from growing too big, and to make them plump and round. YOur care, Ladies, to preserve the the Beauty of these parts, must not be inferior to that, wherewith you cherish any: for the Breast must be made remarkable with an outvying splendour, that so the graceful rising of those snowy hills, might like a pair of stately promontories, tempt wand'ring Lovers, and make them take your Microcosmes for the only fortunate Islands. If ye sear they will grow too big, ye may be these means keep them within their bounds. Put as much pounded Cummin seed into water as will suffice to make it into the consistence of a plaster; bind it when you are young, somewhat straight to the paps, with a fillet dipped in water and vinegar, letting it remain three days, then take away the Cummin, and apply the roots of white Lilies, incorporated with water, bind it likewise to the breast pretty straight, and keep it on other three days. Use this plaster often. Bath the paps with Rosewater and vinegar, whereto you may add a little Camfre and Tutty. Or, powder rock Alum, mix it with oil of Roses, and anoint the paps with it. Or with oil of Myrtle, and juice of Henbane mixed together. Some use to drink in their beer, half a score grains of Hare's dung to keep the breasts from growing too big. If the Breasts have already exceeded their dimensions, the diet that you use, must be more sparing and drying, that there be not too great plenty of blood; care must likewise be had, to draw the blood downwards from the breasts. Ye may apply this, to hinder the breasts from receiving too much blood, Take the juice of Hemlock, with the water of Myrtle & Prunella, a small quantity of Vinegar and Alum, dip a linen cloth therein, and apply it to the breasts. When the Breasts are flaccid, and hang down too low, you may make them round and plump thus; Take Quinces, green Grapes a like quantity, beat them well together; add a little bowl, seed of Plantain, Annis, Fennel, Cummin; with the juice of Plantain and vinegar mixed; spread it upon the breasts in form of a Plaster. The same effects have dried Figs, incorporated well with Cummin and a little vinegar. You may likewise dissolve Pitch, mix it together with oil, and apply it to the breasts. CHAP. XXXI. Remedies for Inflammations or Hardness of the Breasts, and chaps in the Nipples. WHEN some intestine heat impairs the radiant whiteness of those snowy hills; or curdles the milky nectar of the breasts, into such a hard and compacted thickness, that not being able to get forth, it must of necessity lie and generate sharp corroding streams, which fret the tender outlets of Cupid's fountains: Ye may, Ladies, in this Chapter furnish yourselves with recurring remedies. For your Breasts, when they are first Inflamed, Take the green leaves of Plantain, Mallows, of each four handfuls, Earthworms newly prepared, six handfuls, oil of Roses three ounces, oil of Camomile and melilot, of each one ounce, Barley meal three ounces, boil all these together; and with a sufficient quantity of this Decoction, adding Bdellium dissolved in vinegar, two drams; make a Plaster, and apply it to the breasts. Or else, Take the crumb of white bread, Barley meal, of each one ounce and a half, the meal of Beans and fengreek, of each half an ounce, Roses, and the flowers of Camomile powdered, of each two drams; boil them, then add rose vinegar one ounce, oil of Camomile and Roses, of each one ounce; make it into a Pultiss, and apply it. Take the leaves of Lettuce, Purslane, of each one handful, red Roses half a handful; boil them in water, and add to the Decoction, two ounces of vinegar; dip therein, and apply them to the breasts: If great pain doth accompany the Inflammation, you may use this as a singular remedy, Take Album Graecum, powder it very fine, make it into a plaster with white wine, or vinegar, and apply it warm to the breasts. Sometimes there is hardness in the breasts which accompanies the inflammation, in such a case take bean & barley meal of each one handful, the meal of the seed of flax & fenugreek of each half a handful, the oil of roses three ounces, saffron one scruple, mix them together and make an ointment. If after this, the paps remain hard, apply some repercussive medicines, that the breasts may not draw more blood than they can digest: anoint the breasts and under the armpits with this medicine, take bowl arm. one ounce, with a sufficient quantity of oil of roses, of myrtle, and vinegar make an unguent. To the paps apply this discussive cataplasm; take dry mint two handfuls, worm wood one handful, boil them to marsh, strain them, add the meal of beans, lupins, of each half an ounce, make a pultis with the oil of lilies and apply it. If the blood be curdled, dissolve it with this, take smallage four ounces, oxymel two ounces, meal of red vetches & lupins of each two ounces, make them into a cataplasm. When the paps are subject to chaps and clefts use things mollifying and attenuating; before the milk come to the breasts: wherefore it will be good for married Ladies before they lie in, to use some mollifying poultises, or to anoint the paps with wax worked well together with oil or fresh lard. Or else take Bole arm. myrrh of each half a dram, ceruse two scruples, with a sufficient quantity of Ducks fat, make an unguent for the paps. Or else you may anoint them with oil of sweet almonds. The pomatum described in the 25 chap. of this Part is exceeding good in this case. PART. III. How to Beautify the Arms, Hands, Legs and Feet. A Mongst those best means that ye have Ladies, to get yourselves in Fame's immortalising Calendar, canonised for Beauties; it is one, to study the ornament of these parts, which though they seem the outbranches only of rational trees, yet conduce much to the splendour of beauty's Paradise. CHAP. I. To remedy sweeting of the Armpits, and other inconveniences proceeding thence. SOmething is seems of miracle, that Lady's arms should keep those they once encircle such fast prisoners, that few of them are ever known to regain their former freedom. Nothing inferior to Cupid's magic spells, they never surround any, but by their enchantments work on them so strange a metamorphosis, that they leave them nothing may speak them men, but humane shape. If any Lady find that her embraces have no such powerful charms, she may justly suspect there is something that frights the amorous vermin from the bait, before they have leisure to be intoxicated. Such scents are thus removed. After the body hath been purged, use a bath made with balm, myrtle, lavender and other herbs of a good sent in wine or water, wherewith bath the places affected. or else bathe them with wine and rose water wherein you have boiled alum, myrrh, calamus aromaticus, lignum aloes, cloves. If you bathe the armpits with any sort of alum dissolved in water, it will condense the pores, and hinder the sweat from streining through the skin. Or else you may often wash the arm pits with white wine wherein nutmegs or mace have been boiled, or wherein three grains of musk have been dissolved; it hinders the transpiration of sweat and gives a pleasing odour to the body. Monsieur Liebault a French man adviseth to keep this pomander under the armpits. Take Styrax calamity, laudanum, benjamin of each half a dram, cloves, mace, lignum aloes, lavender flowers of each half a scruple, musk one grain, with gum tragagant dissolved in rose water and a little turpentine make them up for use. As for internal remedies to alter the ill constitution of your bodies, I would commend this to ye; Take the best Marmalade of quinces two ounces, candid ginger one ounce, green calamus aromaticus preserved, half an ounce, nutmegs, cassia lignea, the lesser galingale, mace, of each one dram, the seeds of coriander prepared, of bishop's weed of each half a dram, oil of Cloves and Cinnamon of each one scruple, the whitest sugar dissolved in cinnamon water one pound, mix all these, and according to art make them into pectoral lozenges; a dram whereof taken in a morning doth wonderfully strengthen a cold stomach, repair a decayed complexion, and utterly take away all foetid fumes that use to exhale from the body. CHAP. II. For Chaps and Warts in the Arms or Hands. YOur Alabaster Arms and Hands Ladies, are the fleshy altars whereon your superstitious Inamorato's offer to you, as female Deities the first fruits of their devotion in zealous kisses. Your care should be to keep them in such a soul-inchanting symmetry, that might confirm your Idolising lovers in the opinion they have conceived, that you are more than mortal. If the hands or arms are chapped, in the morning as soon as you are up, bathe the chaps with spittle, then anoint them with Capon or Duck grease well washed with rose water. Or else take a little mastic finely powdered, incorporate it with oil of roses and white wax; you may likewise mix powdered mastic with the white of an egg, and anoint the chapped places with it. Or take Olibanum, mastic, of each two drams, oil of roses, new wax and Capon's grease, of each half an ounce, make them into an unguent and use it. If the chaps proceed from heat, take hens grease and camfre, mix them to anoint the chaps withal every night, in the morning wash with bran and water: if the hands are chapped with cold use this, Litharge of silver, myrrh, ginger powdered, a like quantity of each; mix them with oil of roses and new wax, make an unguent, first bath the chaps with spittle, then anoint with this ointment, let it lie on all night, in the morning wash with warm water, it heals the chaps and makes the skin fair and clear. To free yourself from warts, apply to them a plaster of Cantharideses, but let it touch no part else, and it will eat them away by little and little. Or bathe them often with the milk that issues from the figtree. Take lethargy one pound, quick Lime half a pound, sal Armoniac half an ounce, common Vitriol three drams; boil all in water to the consumption of three parts of the water, then strain it, and bathe the Warts therewith. The best way is to touch them with oil of Vitriol, very slightly; for if you lay on any great quantity, it will quickly eat to the bone. Warts, when they come first, and are tender, may be removed with black Soap, mixed with Salt, salt of Nitre, milk of Spurge, juice of Celondine, juice of wild Cucumbers, powder of Cantharideses. Some rub them with a piece of raw Beef, and afterwards bury it. Others use Marigold leaves. CHAP. III. How to make the Hands fair and white, and to lessen the Veins when they appear too big. IF any Lady be already the Cynosure to neighbouring eyes, and would be elevated to the highest altitude in people's estimation, besides the attractive lure of a pleasing face, she ought to have hands, whose radiant whiteness might dazzle spectators eyes, that so they might go on blindfolded in the fond humour of admiring her. And then I dare secure her, men will be such close captives to her imperious tyranny, that she need never fear being disdained by any apostate Lover. The best means to bring the hands to such a lillied splendour, follow here: Take the press of sweet and bitter Almonds, which remain after the Oil is drawn from them, of each four ounces, Bean meal two ounces, your finest French Barley, ground and sifted, meal of Lupins, of each an ounce and an half, powder of Florentine iris one ounce, red Roses dried, Benjamin, of each six drams, salt of white Tartar, the whitest Chalk washed and prepared, ivory, fresh sperma coeti, of each half an ounce, oil of Rhodium one scruple, oil of Cloves and Lavender, of each half a scruple; mix them all well together, and with a little of the mixture often rub and wash the hands: it is of an excellent sent, and makes the hands exceeding white, smooth, and soft. Take Venice Soap dissolved in juice of Limmons one pound, white virgin Honey four ounces, prepared Sublimate, white Sugar candy, the roots of Florentine iris, of each one ounce, salt of white Tartar, whitest sperma coeti, Sugar, alum, Venetian borace, of each half an ounce, true scented Balsam of Peru two drams, gallia moschata one dram, oil of Rhodium, Cinnamon, Cloves, of each one scruple. Use the mixture to wash and rub the hands withal. It is of the same efficacy with the former. Take Venice Soap, what quantity you please, cut it in small piece, set them so long to dry in the Sun, that you may bring them into a powder. Afterward, Take one pound of this powder, iris root, and Saunders powdered, of each four ounces, starch six ounces; beat them altogether in a mortar, adding liquid storax, and oil of benjamin, what quantity you please; anoint the hands with this Composition, and it will marvellously whiten, smooth, and sent them. Take half a pound of Figs, as many Raisins of the Sun stoned, and a like quantity of bitter Almonds, beat them all severally in a mortar, as small as you can, then mix them together, adding two Limmons pared and minced, and two good handfuls of Bean meal, boil all these in a pint of white Wine vinegar, stirring them continually; when it hath boiled so long that it sticks no more to the Posnet, than put it forth into a galley pot, and keep it; use some quantity of it to scour your hands every time you wash. Take Labdanum four ounces, Styrax calam. three ounces, Benjamin two ounces, put them into a brazen mortar heated, work them together with a hot Pestle till they are pretty soft, add powdered Soap two pound, then strew thereon liquid Storax two ounces, make it into a Composition with a little Rosewater, and keep it to scour your hands. Take Starch, meal of Beans, Lupins, Rice, iris roots, of each four ounces; powder them very small, searce them, and then mix them together; when you wash your hands, take a little of this powder and moisten, to rub them withal. If you like an Ointment, do thus; Take oil of sweet Almonds four ounces, take a little white Wax and put to it, boil it over the fire, add one dram of Camfre, and make it into an Unguent: it will both keep the hands from sun-burn, and make them exceeding white. When the milky whiteness of the hands is eclypsed by the azure veins that swell too big, chaff them well with water wherein alum hath been dissolved; then wash them in warm water, presently after anoint them with an unguent made of Ceruse. Take wax an ounce and a half, turpentine three ounces, frankincense, fenugreek, mastic of each two ounces & a half, three grains of musk, dissolve the wax and turpentine, in a new pipkin, then add half a pound of common oil; when it gins to boil, strew in the mas●ick, frankincense, senugreek, all being powdered, incorporate them together and make an ointment. CHAP. IU. For the Hands when they are swollen and look red or blew with cold. IF your hands like the flowery fields, dismantle themselves of their richest livery at the approach of the crabbed winter, & laying aside their youthful loveliness, do shelter themselves under some more serious colour, that may better suit with the humour of that grave decrepit season: Ye may I adies reapparell them with their native whiteness, by the help of these directions following. Often bathe your hands in wine wherein you have boiled, nettles, rosemary, time, rue, penny royal; the frequent use of this decoction will keep them from swelling. As soon as they begin to swell and rise into knobs apply a repercussive plaster made of barley meal and juice of limmons; or take lethargy, oil of roses and vinegar work them well together into a lineament to anoint the affected places. If the swell do not yield to these medicines. Take the yolks of five eggs, calcine them, and mix them well with barrows grease, anoint the hands well therewith going to bed, draw on a pair of smooth gloves and so lie all night. Take turpentine, mix it with half its quantity of salt, stir them well together, till they are pretty thick, then apply it to the swollen hands. Take oil of dil, & oil of sweet almonds, of each one ounce, mucilage of gum tragaganth made with pennyroyal water, three drams, powdered starch eight drams, mix and make them into an ointment; it takes away the cold swell of the hands and reduces them to their former Colour. CHAP. V Remedies for those vices which are incident to the nails. THE nails are pearlie helmets wherewith prudent nature hath armed the active fingers, to which (if they are neatly burnished) they give a commanding comeliness; and may at a pressing exigency be fit materials to head Cupid's piercing shafts: their oriental beauty is thus preserved. When the nails are spotted remove the spots with these medicaments; Incorporate myrrh with a sufficient quantity of turpentine and apply it. Or else take sulphur vive work it together with a convenient quantity of pitch and tar, use it as a plaster; you may if you please add a little vinegar. Mix flax seed beaten with honey and wax, put it to the nail that is spotted. If the nail be bruised and becomes black by reason of the blood that congeals underneath, apply a cerecloth that is made of capon's grease & sheep's grease with oil of cammomile or dil: afterward to dissolve the settled blood use goat's dung tempered with sulphur. Or incorporate cummin seed with diachylum ireatum and oil of camomile in form of an unguent. Duck's grease mixed with Euphorbium is singular good to discuss the condensed blood. By some mischance or other the top of the finger is oftentimes so bruised, that the nail comes off; to make it come again foment the part with wine wherein dates have been steeped. Take Flaxseed one ounce, cardamons three drams, as much honey as will make it into a plaster: this will make a nail that is cleft or rotten to come away: the same effect hath the juice of stinking orach. When the nail by these means is fallen off, to make it grow again you may use that which was before prescribed. If the flesh or skin grows too much over the nails, milk of spurge dropped thereon is very good. Or take salt, barley meal and costus powdered; mix them with so honey, as will make them into a plaster and apply it to the flesh. CHAP. VI Remedies for the galling, fretting and sweeting of the feet. THE Body, that fleshy palace of a deathless guest, would sink beneath its own magnificence, were it not upheld by the feet, those beauteous pedestals to the sister columns that more immediately support the structure: If they are once fretted, or stand on too moist a foundation, they may chance to slip, and so the whole aedefice of beauty hazard itself by catching a fall. Your wisest way will be to secure them thus, When the feet are galled take emplastrum diachalcit, dissolve it in oil of myrtle and use it to anoint the feet. Oil of eggs made by expression, or else oil pressed from wheat betwixt two iron plates is very good. You may likewise use those things which have been formerly commended to take away chaps. Vnguentum album, or diapomphol, are not applied without good success, the like might be said of the oil of flax, fresh butter & the yolk of an egg made into an unguent. The feet if they are often subject to troublesome sweatings may thus be ordered, bathe them in warm water wherein alum hath been dissolved; or else wash your feet in water wherein the flowers and berries of myrtles, the leaves of cypress, tamarisk, mint, marjoram; and after you have washed them well, anoint them with lethargy powdered and mixed with honey. There is yet another distemper incident to the feet, which I had almost forgot, they are often apt to be numbed with a kind of pinching chillness. You may Ladies, free yourselves from this distemper thus. Make a decoction of the roots of enula campana, angelica, flowers of camomile, melilot, and once or twice a week bathe your feet in it. You may likewise boil mint, marjoram, sage, laurel, pepper wort, in white wine and use it as the former decoction. CHAP. VII. Remedies whereby to be freed from Kibes and Corns. THE servile feet, though they veil bonnet to all the nobler parts, and are levelled with that, below which they cannot well fear a fall; yet seem to have something of pride, while they often swell into tumors, and to those dimensions they cannot reach themselves, they arrive in needless excressencies: You may check this their petty ambition, and securely trample upon them, if your hands will take but the pains to walk to your feet and apply these medicines. For the kibes or those red, hard, itching tumors that are troublesome to the feet in frosty weather, bathe them well till they are very soft in warm water wherein mallows or senugreek have been boiled, or in hot grains or oats boiled in aqua vitae; then apply to them an unguent made of oil of mastic, oil of spike, and wax of each a like quantity. Take the powder of gum tragaganth, incorporate it with oil of mastic and use it for a lineament, Or take goats suet one pound, Galls powdered one ounce, melt and strain the suet, then add the galls: use it as an unguent. Or take neat's foot oil two ounces, galbanum half an ounce, boil them till they are pretty thick, then anoint the kibes therewith, having first well bathed them. Boil half an ounce of lethargy in oil, stirring it continually then add three drams of galbanum and make it into an ointment. Take ammoniack half an ounce, rosin one ounce, mastic, frankincense of each one dram, meal of fenugreek half an ounce, wax and oil as much as shall be sufficient, dissolve the gum ammoniac and the rosine over hot embers, then add the wax and the oil, when it is all melted add the meal of fenugreek and the frankincense powdered, make it into an unguent. Bear's grease, sea water, the decoction of leeks, frankincense incorporated with lard, pomegranate peels boiled in wine, all these if they are applied are very good. But if the kibes are broken and exulcerated, anoint them, with unguen●um apostolorum, strewing thereon powder of mastic, incense, myrrh, then bind up the part affected with a fillet, steeped in hot white wine, and cover it with a warm cloth. Corns in the toes or feet, may be removed by the same means which we have prescribed for warts. Or take pure galbanum, new wax, soften them with your breath, and work them together, apply them as close to the corn as you can. First soften the corn with some fomentation, then apply a cautery; some use leaven, others the powder of the root of rest harrow. Wash the feet, and apply to the corns the milk of fig leaves; then shave them with a razor to the quick, and if there happen any inflammation, anoint them with unguentum rosatum. Bruise the leaves of rue and bind them to the corns: quick lime likewise kills them. Or take water of tartar three ounces, black soap one ounce, quicksilver half an ounce, boil these nine times, & every time when they begin to boil, make it cease by pouring in cold water, then wash the corns with this water morning and evening, then shave them to the quick, then wash them again as before, then shave them and they will be quite taken away. Some apply ox gall, changing it every day till the corns fall away. PART. iv Sents and Perfumes fitted for several occasions. YE have heard Ladies how to furnish yourselves with a Beauty, so transcendent, that shall puzzle Rhetoric to study Hyperboles to express it by; so captivating, that none shall dare stile himself a Platonic; or at most, he only whom your divine features shall make believe that ye are more than mortal. The former receipts shall furnish each of ye with loveliness enough for your whole Sex, & make ye Pearls in beholders eyes; these following shall make ye walking gardens, so that ye shall lead your servants by the noses after ye; they shall all turn Camoeleons and live on that air which ye perfume. CHAP. I. Perfumed Pomanders for Bracelets. QUestion not, Madams, but Pomander Bracelets conduce much to the making of your Captives numerous; though they bind only your arms, yet they take men your prisoners: for none can have the courage to resist, that once see how much bracelets make ye Women of your hands. The best directions for making them, are such. Take two ounces of the best damask risen buds, the whites being cut off; musk, ambergris, of each forty grains, civet twenty grains; let your roses be beaten fine, as is usual for Conserves; then add the former things with a little Labdanum; beat them well together, and make them up with gum tragaganth dissolved in rose-water. Take Styrax calamity, Labdanum, of each a dram and a half, Benjamin one dram, Cloves, Mace, wood of Aloes, Lavender flowers, of each half a scruple, musk, ambergris, of each four grains, a little turpentine, gum traganth dissolved in rose-water, as much as will suffice; mix them well together in a warm mortar, and make all into a Pomander, according to art. Take Florentine iris roots, Cloves, Mace, Cinnamon, of each half an ounce; yellow Saunders, Styrax calam. sweet Asa, of each two drams, Ambergris one dram, Musk of Alexandria half a dram, sweet Balsam of Peru, oil of Rhodium, of each one scruple; mix all well together, and add two drams of Civet. This Composition will be dear, but ye may make it in less quantity; taking either half, or a quarter of the doses. Beside, the exceeding pleasant smell, it is good in Pestilential times, and in Fits of the Mother. Take the shave of the greenest Cypress wood one ounce, Florentine iris six ounces, Cloves three ounces, Calamus aromaticus three drams, wood of Aloes fix drams; pound them altogether in a still place. Take three or four hundred red damask Roses clean picked, beat them in a mortar with a wooden Pestle; when they are half beaten,; put in the former powders, than pound them again, moistening them with a little damask Rose water; and when they are well mixed, make them up into small Trochicks, and dry them in the shade. Of this Composition ye may make musk soaps, sweet powders, and pomanders; and to make the Composition more excellent, ye may put what musk & ambergris ye please, so that ye powder the musk, and dissolve both that and the ambergris in rose water, then mix them with the former Composition. Take of the former Trochisks of roses half an ounce, the best labdanum two ounces, Styrax Calam. Benjamin, of each one ounce, violets powdered one ounce, amber and musk, of each half a dram; powder what is to be powdered, and work them well together into a paste; out of which ye may make Pomanders of an excellent and durable sent. If ye like a perfumed Composition to carry about with ye in a silver box, ye cannot have a better than this, Take your true Jasmine butter half an ounce, essence of orange flowers, essence of cinnamon, oil of orange peel, oil of nutmegs, essence of roses, of each half a scruple, flowers of benjamin one scruple, essence of musk, amber, and civet, of each half a scruple; all these ye must work well together in a cold and small marble mortar, than put it into your box. CHAP. II. Powders for the Hair, Linen, and Sweet Bags. IF after ye have used all hitherto commended, ye meet with any that defies your charms, and is obstinate; do not yet despair, Ladies, for this Chapter teaches ye, how ye shall tickle his nose, and fetch him about with a powder, which will give ye so rich a scent, that the roses and violets in all your cheeks, shall not make ye half so sweet. Take Florentine iris roots, finely powdered one pound, Benjamin four ounces, Cloves the like quantity, Storax two ounces; powder them all very fine, and mix them together. This ye may use to sent your hair-pouder withal, adding about three ounces of this powder to a pound of Starch, sifted and pounded; or else, to a like quantity of Rice, powder of Post, or French Beans, being first pounded and then sifted. Take Iris roots six ounces, red Rose leaves powdered four ounces, Cyperus half a dram, Marjoram, Cloves, and Storax, of each one ounce, Benjamin, yellow Saunders, of each half an ounce, Violets three drams, Musk one dram. If ye powder them grisly, they may serve to put in sweet bags to lay amongst linen; but if ye powder them small, and seirce them through a seive, ye may keep the grosser part for the former use, and with the more fine, ye may perfume your hair-pouders. This ye may observe in your other powders. Take Iris roots three pound, Cyperus roots, Benjamin, yellow Saunders, lignum Rhodium, Citron peel, Storax Calam. Cloves, Cinnamon, p●re Labdanum, of each one ounce, sweet Marjoram twelve handfuls, flowers of Roman Camomile, and Rosemary, leaves of sweet Musk, Time, and Savory, of each two handfuls and a half, the best Musk a quarter of an ounce, Civet half so much, Ambergris half a dram; let all be driven into a gross powder, except the Amber, Civet, and Musk, which must be finely powdered, and afterward mixed. This is an excellent powder for Linen, and Bags; it will endure sixteen years exceeding strong, and is as good a Composition as any where you can meet with. If ye mix a less proportion of Zibet, Musk, and Amber, it cannot be expected to be so pleasant, nor lasting. Take from the Apothecary's common Iris roots powdered one pound, calamus aromaticus two ounces, roses four ounces, coriander seeds two ounces, lignum Aloe one ounce, marjoram, orange peels, of each one ounce, storax calam. ten drams, Labdanum six drams, Trochisks of Roses two ounces, Lavender four ounces, Cloves two ounces, Bay leaves half a dram, galingale two drams; mix all these and powder them fine, then add musk and amber, of each half a dram. Take yellow Saunders one ounce, calamus aromaticus a like quantity, marjoram three drams, the leaves of damask Roses and Violets powdered, of each two drams, Nutmegs and Cloves, of each one dram, musk half a dram; all must be beaten into a gross powder, than put it into silken bags to lay amongst Linen. Take the roots of Florentine Iris four ounces, Violet flowers newly dried one ounce, the root of round Cyperus two drams, the true distilled oil of Roses a dram and a half; reduce all these into a very fine powder. This gives a very delightful and pleasing smell, and is composed for their sakes who do not affect those strong Perfumes that are made with musk and Zibet. Ye may put it in silken taffety bags to lay amongst linen, or else it may serve to strew on the hair, or . Take the press (that which remains after the oil is drawn forth) of sweet and bitter Almonds, of each four ounces, the flower of French Barley and Lupins, of each two ounces, the roots of the best Iris pounded one ounce, white Roses dried, Benjamin six drams, salt of white Tartar, whitest Chalk powdered, Sperma Coeti, of each half an ounce, oil of Rhodium one scruple, of Cloves and Lavender half a scruple; mix and make them into a powder, it gives the hands and skin an excellent odour, makes them white and smooth if ye often rub it on them, or use it to wash withal. CHAP. III. Sweet Waters, Oils and Essences. SUch Ladies is the efficacy of these liquors that they'll cherish rather than extinguish the flames of love, they'll put ye in so sweet a pickle, that will make ye dainties shall sharpen the appetite of those that have no flomack to fall on a Lady. In a word the Pope and all his Conclave shall never do so many wonders with their holy water as you may do with these. Take three pints of damask risen water, malmsey half a pint, the flowers of lavender and spike of each two ounces, Florentine flower de Luis roots two drams, nutmeg, styrax Calam of each half a drum. Infuse altogether for a fortnight in a close stopped bottle, then distil them in a glass alembick, putting into the nose of it a scruple of musk & as much amber grease. Ye may mix this water with ordinary water for your hands, or put some of it on a chafing dish of coals, it will recreate the senses with a pleasing vapour. An equal quantity of rose water and vinegar set on the coals does the same. Take rose water four ounces, cinnamon half an ounce, yellow sanders powdered, wood of aloes, citron peel, cloves of each half a scruple, musk two grains, mix them, and they will make an excellent scented water. Take oils of musk one dram, of cloves six grains, of lilies of the valley three grains, a little Virgin wax, mix them together according to art, and you shall have an odoriferous balsam that comforts the brain and revives the spirit's, if ye anoint the nostrils with a little of it. Take cloves, cinnamon, lavender, nutmegs of each two drams, oils of cloves, angelica, spike, lavender, of each half a scruple, wax four drams, musk and amber of each three grains, make them into a Balsam which will be of the same virtues with the former. Take musk finely powdered a dram and a half, put it into a glass alembick, pour thereon two quarts ' of rose water, distil this over a gentle fire in B. M. keep the water that ye draw from thence in a glass close stopped, it may be serviceable to Queens and Empresses. Take rose water three quarts, assa dulcis powdered one ounce, storax, cloves, wood of aloes, camfre of each one dram, musk and civet, of each one scruple, put all these into a glass bottle, close stopped, which boil for the space of four hours in water, then take the vessel wherein the water is and let it cool by degrees; when it is cold strain it through a thick cloth, than put it into another glass vessel with fifteen grains of musk, stop it close and set it in the Sun five days. This perfume is so strong, that if you mix one part thereof with twelve of water, 'twil be exceeding sweet. Take Lavender flowers seven handfuls, rosemary flowers, clove July flowers, orange peel of each three handfuls, mint, sage, bay leaves, elder flowers, pennyroyal of each one handful, cloves four ounces, galingale, nutmegs, calamus aromaticus, ginger, cinnamon, of each one ounce, the best scented white wine three quarts, powder all the spices and steep them in white wine, put all into a glass vessel stopped, set it in the Sun eight days, than put it into a glass alembick with musk and distil all in B. M. Whether it be distilled or not, it is a very sweet water, excellent to wash the hands if ye mix one drop of it with a hundred of common water, if it be applied to the face it will free it from spots and freckles. Take twenty grains of musk, nutmegs, cloves, galingale, spikenard, grains of paradise, mace, cinnamon, of each one ounce, powder all very small, and put them all into a pint bottle of rose water, let them steep four days, then pour on more rose water and after distil them in B. M. Or tye in a very fine rag, musk and civet of each one dram, put the bag into a three quart bottle filled with rose water, expose it some days to the sun, and ye shall have a rich scented water. Take the purest Benzoin twelve ounces, powder it very fine, then take liquid styrax as much as will suffice to make it into a past, when it is well mixed put it into a glass alembick with a glass head; which ye must set in ashes or sifted sand, and cement a receiver to the nose of the alembick, with potter's clay and the whites of eggs very close, that the vapours may have no vent forth; (which if they have they'll be so strong that to most they'll seem a stink rather than a perfume, and to some persons may be very prejudicial) when things are thus fitted kindle fire under it by degrees, afterwards make the fire stronger; at first ye shall draw a yellow water in a small quantity and worth little, but presently after there will arise a vapour white as snow, that will stick to the alembick; when ye perceive that this rises no more than make the fire stronger, but not too violent, then will an oil ascend that is sweeter than the former: and according to the colour of your oils, remember to change your receivers; your last oil will be an excellent Balsam. But to make an exact perfume, take an ounce and a half of the white snow, oil of sweet almonds newly drawn four ounces, melt both over a gentle fire, stirring it continually with a spattula till the snowy part be dissolved, and to give it a reddish colour put in a small piece of the root of alkanet; so ye may have a perfume of an excellent sent. Is you would have this oil of a richer odour, ye may dissolve therein one scruple of amber grease. The black oil that remains at the bottom of your alembick, is of a very strong smell, but mixed with liquid styrax will make excellently scented pomanders: if ye keep it by itself, ye were best to keep it open that so the strong scent may evaporate. CHAP. IU. Sweet Candles, and Perfumes to burn. YE are much beholding, Ladies, to ordinary Candles; for when the sooty night would befriend your Chambermaids, and make them seem as handsome as yourselves, that which discovers the cheat, and makes ye be preferred before them, is the friendly light those Candles lend; they show the difference betwixt a beauty and the foils that usually attend her. But if those common ones do ye much service, these will more; for if ye can once procure these ignes fatui to lead them, ye may be sure to make fools of men; and never fear but ye shall have servants, after ye have got such enamouring flames. Take Labdanum two ounces, Storax one ounce, Benjamin and Cloves, of each half an ounce, Mace a quarter of an ounce; beat all to a powder in a brazen mortar, and when they are finely powdered, set the mortar over a gentle fire, and work them well together; then take rose-water eight spoonfuls, dissolve therein musk and civet, of each three grains; afterward, put it with the rest of the ingredients, into the mortar; when ye have mixed all throughly together, make the whole mass into small long rolls; when they are dry, you may put them into a silken bag, and lay them amongst linen, or burn them in your chamber, or any where else at your pleasure. They are a pleasing Perfume, and will last good seven years. Take Labdanum two drams, Styrax calam. a dram and a half, benjamin, frankincense, white amber, wood of aloes, red roses, wood of cypress, cinnamon, cloves, of each two scruples, amber, musk, of each five grains; make them up into small cakes with gum tragaganth dissolved in spirit of roses, one whereof cast upon the coals, scents your chamber with a delightful vapour. Take Labdanum one ounce and a half, dried charcoal made of willow one ounce, myrrh, wood of aloes, styrax calam. of each one ounce and a half, amber, musk, of each seven grains; dissolve half an ounce of gum tragant in rose-water with a little spirit of wine, and make them up into rolls like small candles. Take gum styrax calam. benjamin, of each equal quantities, dissolve them in the best rose-water; as soon as they are dissolved, strain them hard through a thick cloth: afterwards dry them, and powder them, and keep the powder for your use. Take of this powder thus prepared one ounce, the weightiest wood of aloes powdered, two drams, red roses dried, ambergris, of each one dram, zibet, musk, of each half a dram, sweet balsam of Per●, oil of Rhodium, of each one scruple, ivory burnt till it be black, as much as will suffice: powder what is to be powdered, then mix all with rose water, and work them together into a kind of black paste & make it into small balls, which you must wrap in rose leaves and dry them in the shade, then keep them well stopped in glasses. This is a perfume for Persons of quality. One or two of them cast upon coals or put into a quantity of rose water that is set over the coals, will fill the room with a ravishing and celestial vapour, that refreshes the brain and vital spirits and corrects the malignity of any contagious air. Take Styrax calam, prepared as before, benzoin, of each half an ounce, your best wood of aloes two drams, Zibet that is not adulterate one dram, Gallia moscata one scruple, oil of roses, and of cloves, of each half a scruple, mix them according to art, and with damask risen water make them into little balls. They are of the same virtue with the former and used in the same manner. CHAP. V How to perfume Gloves. TO add the roses sweetness, to the lillied loveliness of your snowy hands, sent your gloves with these perfumes: and they who take ye by the hand, shall find all pleasures grasped in a handful, wherein all ravishing objects are, that can convey those charming delights to the admiring fancy, that both please the sight and feast the other senses too. First then perfume your gloves thus, Take a pair of smooth new Cordavan gloves, wash them well for two or three days (once a day) in good white wine; pressing them well and smoothing them, after every washing; after the last washing, when they are almost dry wash them in rose water, wherein musk hath been dissolved; let them lie in that water for one day; then pull one of the gloves on your hand, and with your other hand smooth and dry it, then do the same to the other glove. When this is done, steep in water for four or five days four ounces of gum tragagant, the whitest you can get; musk, amber, dried marjoram of each one scruple; boil them gently altogether, and in the boiling add half a scruple of Zibet, put these into a covered vessel till they are cold, than chaff and rub it well into the gloves, afterward lay them in some place to dry. Or wash those gloves ye intent to perfume, first well in white wine, then dry them in the shade, after wash them in a pint of rose water, scented with oil of cloves, jasmine, nutmegs, labdanum of each half a scruple, then take musk, zibet, ambergris of each five grains, beat them together in a mortar with a little oil of spike, and mucilage of gum tragagant dissolved in rose water, chaff this composition into the washed gloves, before the fire. FINIS.