THE VOYAGE OF ITALY. PRINTED AT PARIS. Anno dni. M.DC.LXX THE VOYAGE OF ITALY, OR A Complete Journey through ITALY. In Two Parts. With the Characters of the People, and the Description of the Chief Towns, Churches, Monasteries, Tombs, Libraries, Palaces, Villas, Gardens, Pictures, Statues, and Antiquities. AS Also of the Interest, Government, Riches, Force, etc. of all the Princes. With Instructions concerning Travel. By Richard Lassels, Gent. who Traveled through Italy Five times as Tutor to several of the English Nobility and Gentry. Never before Extant. Newly Printed at Paris, and are to be sold in London, by John Starkey at the Mitre in Fleetstreet near Temple-Barr, 1670. TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE AND MOST TRULY NOBLE LORD RICHARD LORD LUMLEY VISCOUNT WATERFORD etc. MY LORD It were needless to tell you, by how many titles this little Orphan book, claims the honour of your Lord ps protection. First, by the law of nature, its parent dying in your service, you stand bound to be a foster father to it; again it having been my fortune to contribute something to the bringing it forth to light, it hath a new relation to you under the title by which I have long ago consecrated all my endeavours to your service. But to pass by these two, there is yet a third reason, whereby it will appear, not the effect of choice, but of necessity, that it should come forth under the favour of your name: The wellgrounded experience which you have gained in your travels; the exact and judicious account you are able to give of the places you have seen, which make a great part of the subject of this book; the mature judgement of the interests of states, and manners of people whereof it treats, which in you is not the after fruit of age; the Gentile and courteous behaviour which you have acquired, and which charms all those who have the honour to converse with you: These, I say, are virtues so peculiar to your Person, and so conspicuous in the eyes of all the world, that the design of this Book being to form the like in the rest of the Gentry of our Nation that pretend to travel; It would be a wrong to the public to let it appear under the Patronage of any other then of him that is the Idea of an accomplished and consummate Traveller. And this, I doubt not, was the reason, why the Author having had the honour to have been a Governor to so many of the flower of our Gentry, made choice of your Lordship to bequeath this work unto, by his last Will and Testament: And which imposeth upon me a necessity, both in compliance to the memory of my worthy friend and fellow traveller, and to the duty I owe unto your Lordship, by the honour I have to succeed unto him in his last engagement, to offer up this his last work to you, as an everlasting monument of esteem and gratitude, of him who while he lived ever was, and of him who living ever is. MY LORD Your Lordship's most humble & most obedient servant S. Wilson. A TABLE OF THE NAMES OF THE CHIEF TOWNS contained in this first part. A. AIguebelle. 69 Aiguebellet Mt. 66 Aix. 42 Alexandria. 103 Apennins Mts. 154 Aquapendente. 241 Auignon. 38 B. S. Baume. 43 Beawoysin. 66 Berlin. Mt. 58 Bologna. 141 Bolsena. 242 Briare. 32 Briga. 6● C. Caprarola. 247 Cassale. 103 Castelfranco. 141 Chambery. 67 Cenis. Mt. 70 Coire. 57 D▪ Devedra. 65 Domodoscela. 65 F. Florence. 155 Fontainbleau. 27 Fort-Vrban. 140 G. Geneva. 48 Genua. 82 I. S. john Morian. 69 Isere. Riu. 68 L. Lake of Geneva 49 Lake of Bolsena. 243 Lakes of Wollinstade and Isee. 59 Lake Maior. 65 Lasneburg. 69 Lausanna. 50 Leghorn. 232 Lodi. 133 Lucca. 225 Lions. 32 M. Marseiles. 42 Marguzzi. 65 Marignano. 133 S Maurice. 59 S. Maximin. 44 Milan. 112 Modena. 138 Monferat. 103 Montargis. 32 Montefiascone. 243 Monterosa. 249 Montmelian. 68 Murat. 52 N. Nevers. 32 Novalese. 71 Novi 10● P. Parma. 135 Pavia. 105 Piacenza. ●4 Piedmont. 72 Pisa. 228 Pistoia. 225 Po. Riu. 72 Poggibonzi. 235 Pont S. Esprit. 38 Pougues. 32 R. Radicofino. 241 Regio. 238 Riviera di Genua. 82 Roanne. 32 S. Sampion. M. 63 Savona. 80. Savoy. 76 Sesto. 66 Sienna. 235 Zion 62 Soleur. 52 Splug. Mt. 58 Susa. 71 Switzerland. 51 T. Terrara. 32 Ticinum. 105 Tortona. 104 Tournon. 38 Turin. 72 V. Valance. 38 Valtaline. 57 Valetians. 59 Veij. 250 Vienne. 38 Viterbo. 246 Y. Yssonne. ●●. Z. Zuric. 54 A PREFACE TO THE READER, CONCERNING TRAVELLING. WHEN I first set pen to Paper to handle this subject, I had not the least thought of the press; nor of erecting myself into an Author. I only discharged my memory hastily of some things which I had seen, in Italy; and wrapped up that untimely Embryo in five sheets of paper, for the use of a noble person, who set me that task. Yet this Embryo liking the person for whom it was conceived, obliged me to lick it over and over again, and bring it into better form. Second thoughts, and succeeding voyages into Italy, have finished it at last; and have made it what it is; A complete Voyage, and an exact Itinerary through Italy. And here I thought to have drawn bridle and rested, after so long a journey; when a learned friend having perused this my Description of Italy, desired much to see a Preface to it, of my fashion, and Concerning Travelling. I could refuse nothing to such a friend; and have done it here willingly, both for my own, and my country's sake. For my own sake; to preexcuse some things in my book, which some perchance may dislike. For some, I fear, will quarrel with my English; and justly, seeing three long voyages into Flanders, six into France, five into Italy, one into Germany, and Holland, have made me, live half of my life time in foreign countries, to the disturbance of my own language. Yet if I bring not home fine language, I bring home fine things: and I have seen great Ladies, both in France, and England, buy find things of chimneysweepers, and Pedlars, that spoke but course Lombard language, and gross Scotch. Others perchance will find fault, that I write merrily sometimes: And why not? Seeing I write to young men, and for them: and mirth is never so lawful as in travelling, where it shortens long miles, and sweetens bad usage; that is, makes a bad dinnar go down, and a bad horse go on. Others will say, that I fill my book with too much Latin: But these must be minded, that I am writing of the Latin country; and that I am carving for Scholars, who can digest solid bits, having good stomaches. Others will say, I jeer now and then: And would any man have me go through so many divers countries, and praise all I see? Or in earnest, do not some things deserve to be ieered? when things cannot be cured but by jeering, jeering, saith Tertullian, is a duty: and I think the Cynic Philosophers struck as great a blow at vice, as the Stoics. Others will say, I change stile often, and sometimes ru●n smoothly, sometimes joltingly: Tru●●raueled not always upon smooth ground, and paceing horses: Swisserlande and Savoye, are much different, from Campania, and Lombardy; and its one thing to describe a Pleasant garden, an other thing to describe a Venerable Cathedral: and if in the one, and the other, we have several looks; much more ought we to have several words in describing them. Others will say, I affect a world of exotic words not yet naturalised in England: No, I affect them not; I cannot avoid them: For who can speak of Statues, but he must speak of Niches? or of Churches, Wrought Tombs, or inlaid Tables; but he must speak of Coupolas; of bassi rilievi; and of pietre commesse? If any man understand them not, it's his fault, not mine. Others will say, I hunt too much after Ceremonies, and Church antiquityes. No, I only meet them. And as a man cannot speak of Hercules, but he must speak of clubbs, of combats, of Labours, and victories: so I cannot speak of Rome the Christian, but I must speak of Relics, Ceremonies, and Religion. Yet I believe, I give my Reader a full drought to● of profane antiquityes, Mascarades, Shows, dress, and passetimes. Others in fine will say, that I do but a thing done already; seeing two others have written of this subject in English. Well; if others have written upon this subject, why may not I? They did the best they could, I believe; but they drew not up the ladder after them. The one writes much of Italy, M. Warcupp. M. Raymond. and says little: the other writes little and leaveth out much; which I impute to the one's writing out of old Geographers, long after he had been there: and to the others short stay in Italy, when he was there. And if these ingenious gentlemen have painted out Italy in busto only, and profile; why may not I paint her out at full face, and at her full length? If they, like ancient Statuaryes, have represented Italy unto us like a naked statue; I have set her out in all her best Attire, and jewels. And thus much for my own sake. For my country's sake; To read to my countrymen two profitable Lessons. The first, of the Profit of travelling. The second: of Travelling with profit. 1. For the first, to wit the Profit of Travelling, its certain, that if this world be a great book, The profit of travelling. as S. Augustin calls it, none study this great Book so much as the Traveler. They that never stir from home, read only one page of this book; and like the dull follow in Pliny, who could never learn to count further than five, they dwell always upon one lesson. They are like an acquaintance of mine, who had always a book indeed lying open upon a desk; but it was observed that it lay always open at one and the same place, and by long custom, could lie open no where else. He than that will know much out of this great book, the world, must read much in it: and as Ulysses is setforth by Homer as the wisest of all the Grecians, because he had travelled much, and had seen multorum hominum mores & Vrbes, the Cities and customs of many men: so his son Telemachus is held for a very shallow witted man: and Homer gives the reason, because his mother Penelope, instead of sending him abroad to see foreign countries, had always kept him at home, and so made him a mere Onocephalus, and a homeling Mammacuth. So true is the saying of Seneca, that Imperitum est animal homo, & sine magna experientia rerum, si circumscribatur Natalis soli sui fine. 2 Travelling preserves my young nobleman from surfeiting of his parents, and weanes him from the dangerous fondness of his mother. It teacheth him wholesome hardship; to lie in beds that are none of his acquaintance; to speak to men he never saw before; to travel in the morning before day, and in the evening after day; to endure any horse and weather, as well as any meat and drink. Whereas my country gentleman that never travelled, can scarce go to London without making his Will, at least without wetting his handkerchief. And what generous mother will not say to her son with that ancient? Malo tibi malè esse, Senec. quam molliter: I had rather thou shouldst be sick, then soft. Indeed the coral-tree is neither hard, nor red, till taken out of the Sea, its native home. And I have read that many of the old Romans put out their children to be nurced abroad by Lacedaemonian nurses, till they were three years old; then they put them to their Uncles, till seven, or ten; then they sent them into Toscany to be instructed in Religion; and at last into Greece to study Philosophy. 3. Travelling takes my young nobleman four notches lower, in his self-conceit and pride. For whereas the country Lord that never saw any body but his Father's tenants, and M. Parson, and never read any thing but john Stow, and Speed; thinks the Landsend to be the Worlds-end; and that all solid greatness, next unto a great Pastry, consists in a great Fire, and a great estate. Whereas my travelling young Lord, who hath seen so many greater men, and Estates then his own, comes home far more modest and civil to his inferiors, and far less puffed up with the empty conceit of his own greatness. Indeed nothing cured Alcibiades his pride so much, as to see in a Map (showed him for the nonce by Socrates) that his house and lands, of which he was so proud, either appeared there not at all, or only a little spot, Senec: or dab: and nemo in pusillo magnus. 4. Travelling takes off, in some sort, that aboriginal curse, which was laid upon mankind even almost at the beginning of the world; I mean, the confusion of tongues: which is such a curse indeed, that it makes men, who are of one kind, and made to be sociable, so strangely to fly one an other, that, as great S. Austin saith, A man had rather be with his dog, then with a man whose language he understands not. Nay, this diversity of language, makes the wisest man pass for a fool in a strange country, and the best man, for an excommunicated person, whose conversation all men avoid. Now, travelling takes off this curse, and this moral excommunication, by making us learn many languages, and converse freely with people of other countries. 5. Travelling makes us acquainted with a world of our kindred we never saw before. For seeing we are all come from one man at first, and consequently all akinn to one another; it's but a reasonable thing, that a man should, once at least in his life time, make a journey into foreign countries, to see his Relations, and visit this kindred: having always this saying of young Joseph in his mouth; quaero fratres meos 6. Travelling enables a man much for his country's service. It makes the merchant rich, by showing him what abounds, & wants, in other countries; that so he may know what to import, what to export. It makes the mechanic come loaden home with a world of experimental knowledge for the improveing of his trade. It makes the field officer, a knowing Leader of an army, by teaching him where an army in foreign countries, can march securely, pass rivers easily, incamp safely, avoid ambuscades and narrow passages discretly, and retreat orderly. It makes the Common soldier play the spy well, by making him speak the enemy's language perfectly, that so mingling with them, he may find their designs, and cross their plots. In fine, it makes a nobleman fit for the noblest employment, that is, to be Ambassador abroad for his king in foreign countries, and carry about with him his king's person, which he represents, and his king's word, which he engageth. 7. Travelling brings a man a world of particular profits. It contents the mind with the rare discourses we hear from learned men, as the Queen of Saba was ravished at the wisdom of Solomon. It makes a wiseman much the wiser by making him see the good and the bad in others. Hence the wiseman saith: Sapiens in terram alienigenarum gentium pertransiet: bona enim & mala in hominibus tentabit. It makes a man think himself at home every where, and smile ●t unjust exile: It makes him welcome home a gain to his Neighbours, sought af●er by his betters, and listened unto with admiration by his inferiors. It makes him sit still in his old age with satisfaction; and travail over the world again in his chair and bed, by discourse and thoughts. In fine its an excellent Commentary upon histories; and no man understands Livy and Caesar, Guicciardin and Monluc, like him, who hath made exactly ●he Grand Tour of France, and the Giro of Italy. 8. Travelling makes my young Nobleman return home again to his country like a blessing Sun, For as the Sun, who hath been travelling about the world these five thousand and odd years, not only enlightens those places which he visits; but also enrich●th them with all sorts of fruits, and mettales: so the nobleman by long travelling, having enlightened his understanding with fine notions, comes home like a glorious Sun; and doth not only shine birght in the firmament of his country, the Parliament house; but also blesseth his inferiors with the powerful influences of his knowing spirit. 9 In fine, Examples (the best Philosophy) show us, that the greatest Princes Europe hath seen, these many years, to wit, Charles the V. and the King of Sueden, Gustaws Adolphus, Strada de Bello Belg. where both of them great travellers; the first had been twice in England, as often in afric, four times in France, six times is Spain, seven in Italy, and nine in Germany: The second had travelled incognito (as M. Wats writes of him) into Holland, France, Italy, and Germany in his youth: which made him say afterwards to the French Ambassador Mareshal Brezé, in a kind of threatening way, that he knew the way to Paris, as well as to Stockholme. Add to this, that the wisest and greatest among the ancient Philosophers, Plato, Pythagoras Anaxagoras, Anacharsis, Apollonius, Architas, and Pi●tacus, (which last left his supreme Command of Mytelen to travel) were all great travellers; and that S. Jerome (who being no Bishop, and consequently not obliged to residence) having travelled into France, Italy, Greece, and the Holy Land, purchased to himself such rare acquisitions of learning, by his travels and languages, that among all the ancient Fathers and Doctors, The Church, in her Collect on his day, calls him onel●, Doctorem maximum, the greatest Doctor. And so much for the profit of Travelling. Now for as much as concerns the second Lesson, to wit, The Travelling with profit▪ the Travelling with profit, divers things are to be taken notice of; some by the Parents of those that travail; others by those themselves that travail: of all which I will speak briefly. As for the Parents, their greatest care ought to be of provideing there children (I speak to men of high condition) a good Governor, to travel with them, and have a care of their Persons, and breeding: that is, play the part of the Archangel Raphaël to young Toby, and Led them safe abroad, and bring them safe home: Ego sanum ducam & reducam filium tuum. Tob. 5. v. 20. And here I could▪ wish indeed that Parents could be as happy in their choice, and find men Angels for Governors to their children, upon condition they should requite them, as young Toby offered to requite the Archangel his Governor, whom he took to be a man. For the education of children is a thing of that high concern to the Commonwealth, that in this, Parents should spair no cost whatsoever; but rather imitate the old Lacedæmonians, who took more care of their youth, then of any thing else in their Commonweath. In so much that when Antigonus a●d of them fifty young youths for hostages, they answered him, that they had rather give him twice as many made men. Seeing then young youths are the future hopes of families, and Commonwealths, their education ought not to be committed but to men of great parts and excellent breeding. For I have always thought, that a young Nobleman's train ought to be like his Clothes; His Lacquaiss and footmen are like his Galosheses, which he leaves at the doors of those he visits: His Valets de Chambre, are like his night gown, which he never useth but in his chamber; and leaves them there when he goes in visits: His gentlemen attendants, are like his several rich suits, which he wears not all at once, but now one, now an other, and sometimes none at all of them: His groom is like his rideing cloak, and never appears near him but upon the road: But his Governor▪ is like his shirt, which is always next unto his skinn and person; and therefore as young Noblemen are curious to have their shirts of the finest linen: so should they have their Governors of the finest thread, and the best spunn men that can be found. Hence the ancients as they were careful in honouring the memory of those that had binns Governors to great Heroes, as of Chiron, Governor of Hercules, jason, Paris, Achilles, and other brave heroes; Miscus Governor of Ulysses; Eudorus of Patroclus; Dares of Hector; Epitides of julus, Connidas of Theseus; all of them choice men: So they were in chooseing the rarest men for that great employment, to be their children's Governors; that is in their language, Custodes & comites iwentutis Principum & magnatum. For not every honest and virtuous man (as some Parents think) is fit for this employment▪ Those parts indeed would do well in a Stuard and a Solicitor; but many things else, besides these, must concur to make up a good Governor. I would have him then to be not only a Virtuous man, but a Virtuoso too: not only an honest man, The Character of a good Governor. but a man of honour too: not only a gentleman borne, but a gentile man also by breeding: a man not only comely of person by nature; but graceful also by art in his garbs and behaviour: a good scholar, but no mere scholar: a man that hath travelled much in foreign countries; but yet no fickleheaded man: a man of a stout spirit, but yet of a discreet tongue, and who knows rather to wave quarrels prudently, then to maintain them stoutly: a man cheerful in conversation, yet fearful to offend others: a man of that prudence, as to teach his pupil rather to be wise, then witty; and of that example of life, that his deeds may make his pupil believe his words: in fine, I would have him to be an Englishman, no stranger. I speak not this out of an envy to strangers, but out of a love to my own countrymen. For I have known divers English gentlemen much wronged abroad by their Governors that were Strangers. Some I have known that led their pupils to Geneva, where they got some French language, but lost all their true English allegiance and respect to Monarchy; others I have known who, being married and having their setlements and interest lying at Saumur, kept young gentlemen there all the time they were abroad; and made their parents in England believe, that all good breeding was in that poor town, where their wifes were breeding children. Others I have known who having their mistresses in the country, persuaded their young pupils, men of great birth, that it was fine living in a country house, that is, fine carrying a gun upon their necks, and walking a foot. Others have been observed to sell their pupils to Masters of exercises, and to have made them believe, that the worst Academyes were the best, because they were the best to the cunning Governor, who had ten pound a man for every one he could draw thither. Others I have known who would have married their pupils in France, without their Parent's knowledge; and have sacrificed their great trust, to their sordid avarice. Others I have known who have locked their pupils in a chamber with a wanton woman, and taken the Key away with them. Nay, this I can say more, that of all those strangers that I have known Governors to young Nobleman of England (and I have known seven or eight.) I never Knew one of them to be a gentleman borne; but for the most part, they were needy bold men, whose chief parts were, their own language and some Latin; and whose chief aim was, to serve themselves, not their pupils. But to return again to our subject, the Parent having found out such a Governor for his son, as we have described here above, he must resign over unto him his full Authority, and command his son to obey him: otherwise let the Governor be the wisest, and the most complete man in the world, if his pupil do not obey him, and follow his counsel, all will go wrong. I have seen great disorders befall for want of this. Hence I have often thought of great Clemens Alexandrinus, who saith wisely, that our Saviour Christ is the only true Pedagogue, or Governor, because he can not only give the best instructions to young men, but also can give them grace to execute those instructions: whereas other Governors (Cassandra like) telling their pupils many excellent truths, are not believed by them; nor can they force their inclinations to execute them, except the Parents commands come in to their assistance: and it is but reasonable, that as Governors are the Seconds of Parents, in the breeding of their children, so Parents should second Governors too, in making their children obey them. And so much for the Parents care. For the son's care, it must be this. First to take a view of England before he enter into foreign countries. This will enure him to travel, to see company, to observe towns and rarities, and sharpen his appetite for foreign curiosities. I would wish him withal in travelling over England, to fall in, as often as he can, with the judges in their circuits, not only to see how his country is governed in point of judicature, but also to see the gentry of several countries, who flock to great towns in the assize week. It would be also profitable to him, to cast to be at all the chief Horsraces, where he will easily see also the gentry of the several counties in a compendious view. Having thus seen his own country in a summer's space, and having got his Majesty's licence to travel beyond the seas (in which Licence I could wish this clause were inserted, That all young gentlemen should at their return, present themselves to his Majesty, to give him an account of their travels and observations) I would have him depart England about the beginning of October. 2. At his going out of England, let him take his aim right; that is, let him aim altogether at his profit, and not at his pleasures only. I have known many Englishmen who for want of right aiming, have miss the white of breeding, whole heaven's breadth. For some in travelling, aim at nothing but to get loose, from their Parents, or schoolmasters, and to have the fingering of a pretty allowance; and these men when they come into France, care for seeing no court, but the Tennis-court; delight in seeing no Balls but Tennis-balls; and forsake any company, to toss whole days together with a tattered Marker in the Tripot. Others desire to go into Italy, only because they hear there are fine Curtisanes in Venice; and as the Queen of the Amazons, in justin, went thirteen day's journey out of her country, only to have a night's lodging with Alexander the Great, so these men travel a whole month together, to Venice, for a night's lodging with an impudent woman. And thus by a false aiming at breeding abroad, they return with those diseases which hinder them from breeding at home. Others travail abroad, as our ship-boy's do into the Indies: for whiles these boys might bring home jewels, Pearls, ad many other things of value, they bring home nothing but firecanes, parrots, and Monkeys; so our young travellers, whiles they might bring home many rich observations, for the governing themselves, and others, bring home nothing but Firecanes, that is, a hotspur humour, that takes fire at every word, and talks of nothing but duels, seconds, and esclaireissements: or else parrots, that is, come loaden home with rubans and feathers of all colours like parrots, and with a few borrowed compliments in their mouths, which make them talk like parrots: or else Monkeys, that is, some affected cringes, shrugs, and such like Apish behaviour. 3. At his embarking let him have a special care not to carry Himself abroad with Himself in travelling. Many men, saith Seneca, return home no better than they went out, because they take themselves along with themselves in travelling: and as a man in a fever, finds himself no better than he was, by changing his bed; because he carries his favour with him wheresoever he lies: so many young men return home tired, and dirted, but not better and wiser; because they carried abroad their bad customs and manners with them. I would then that my young traveller should leave behind him all wilfulness, and stubborness; all tenderness, and seeking his ease too much; all effeminatnesse and delicateness; all boyish tricks with hands or mouth, and mocking of others; all delighting in being the best man in the company; all familiarity with servants, and mean men; all Taverns, and intemperancy of eating and drinking; having that saying of Seneca often in his mouth, and mind; Major sum & ad majora natus, quam ut mancipium sim corporis mei: I am too great a man, and borne to too great things, for to become the slave of my body. In fine I would have him imitate that young gentleman of whom S. Ambrose speaks; who returning home from foreign travels, and meeting with his old mistress, a wanton woman, seemed not to know her; whereat she wondering, told him that ●he was such an one: it may be so, said he, but I am no more I. A rare Apothegme, which I would wish my young Traveler to take for his motto, as well as this young man for his exemple. 4. Being thus got out of England, it's a great question into what country he should first go, to make his abode. The common course is, to go first into France, and then into Italy, and so home by Germany, Holland, and Flanders, as I did once: but my opinion is, that its better for a young man to go first into Italy, and returning by Germany, Holland and Flanders, come into France, to give himself there the last hand in breeding. And my reason is this; For seeing the intention of travelling, is to make a man a wise man, not a finical man, it's better to season his mind betimes with a stayed wise breeding, then to fill it up to the brim at first, with a fantastical giddy breeding, which having once gotten possession of the mind, bolts the door on the inside, locks out all staydness, and makes my young man delight in nothing but vanity, clothes, danceing, liveryes, balls, and such mere outsides. I would therefore have my young nobleman's Governor to carry him immediately into Italy at fifteen or sixteen, and there season his mind with the gravity, and wise maxims of that Nation, which hath civilised the whole world, and taught Man Manhood. Having spent two, or three years in Italy in learning the language, viewing the several courts, studying their maxims, imitating their gentile conversation, and following the sweet exercises of music, painting, architecture, and mathematics, he will at his return, know what true use to make of France. And having spent three years more there, in learning to fence, dance, ride, vault, handle his pike, musket, colours etc. The Map, history, and books of Policy; he will be ready to come home at twenty, or one and twenty, a man most complete both in body, and mind; and fit to fill the place of his calling. 5. I say, make true us of France: For I would not have my young traveller imitate all things he sees done in France, or other foreign countries. What to be learned in France, and what not. I would have him learn of the French a handsome confidence; but not an impudent boldness. He must learn of them to come into à Room with a ●onne mine; but not to rush into a man's chamber, as they do, without so much as knocking at the door. He must learn of them to dance well, to get a good grace in walkeing, and saluting, as they do: but he must not dance as he walks, as many of them do. He must learn of the French, to become any clothes well; but he must not follow them in all their Fantastical and fanfaron clothings. He must learn to fence well, as they do; but I would have his sword stick faster in the scabbard than theirs do. In fine, I would have him open, airy, and gallant, as they are: but not affecting to be the Gallands of all Ladies, as they do. What in Italy, and what not. So in Italy, I would have him learn to make a fine house; but I would not have him learn of the Italians to keep a good house. He may learn of them to be sober, and wise: but I would not have him learn of them be jealous and distrustful. I would have him learn of the Italians, to receive those that visit him, with great civility and respect; but I would not have him stand upon all their little forms and incommodious puntiglios. I would have him to be free of his Hat, as they are: but I would have the heart to go to the Hat, as well as the hand. In Germany I would have him learn to offer a man a cup of wine at his coming in; What in Germany, and wha● not. but I would not have him press so much wine upon him, as he shall not be able ●o go out again, as they often do. I would have him learn of them to go freely to war for the defence of his country: but I would not have him learn the custom of those vendible souls there, who carry their lifes to market, and serve any Prince for money. I like well their shaking hands with you, when you first enter into their houses; but I like not their quarrelling with you for not pledgeing a health of a yard long, which would ruin yours. I like very much their singular modesty and chastity, which allows not bastards to be freemen of the most ordinary trads: but I like not their endless drinking in feasts, which is able to make them freemen of all vices. In Holland also I would have him learn to keep his house and hearth neat, What in Holland, and what not. but I would no● have him adore his house, and stand in such awe of his hearth, as not to dare to make a fire in it, as they do. I would have him learn of them, a spare diet; but I would not have him drink so much, as would keep him both in good diet and clothes, as they do. I would have him learn of them their great industry, and oeconomy: but not their rude exacting upon Noblemen strangers in their Inns, for their Quality sake only, as they do. I would have him learn of them a singular love to his country: but he must take heed of their clownish hatred of Nobility. Thus in all countries I would have my young Traveler do, as men do at a great feast, where there is no fear of starving; that is, not eat greedily of all that's before him, but fall to the best meats, and leave the worst for the waiters. 6. That he may follow the foresaid rule the better, and pick out of every country what's the best in it, let his Governor lead him betimes into the best company; for there the best lessons are to be learned. Now by the word best, I do not mean the greatest men in birth, but in parts. For the world is not so happy, as that the greatest men are always the best: but by the word best, I mean those that a●e the wisest, the best bred, the best principled, the best behaved, and the most cried up by civil persons: for of such men much is to be learned: Their life is a perpetual lecture; their words so many oracles; their discourses so many wise maxims: and though young men be not able to bring their dish with them, and club wit equally with these men, yet it's a great matter to sit still in their company, and be a respectful catechumen to them. For if it be true which Quintilian saith of those that love Cicero, Ciceronem amass, profecisse est, it's also most certain, that a man that loves good company, must be good himself in time. 7. And that he may be able to appear in good company without blushing, his Governor must get him, as soon as he can, to speak the language of the place in handsome terms, and with a good accent. Next he must have a care that he be well adjusted and set out in apparel. For if anciently jewels were called the Ushers of Ladies, because all doors flew open to them that presented themselves so richly adorned: so now a days good clothes may be called men's ushers, seeing they make way for them into all companies. He must have a care that he know his Congees perfectly, and have a free garb or carriage; a Cavalier way of entering into a Room; a grateful manegeing of his mouth and smiles; a chyronomie, or decent acting with his hands, which may humour his words gravely and freely, yet not affectedly or mimically: in fine, a liberty or freedom in all his actions, which The French call liberté du corpse; and it must appear to be à la negligence, and yet must be perfectly studdyed a fore hand. And though these things be but the Elements and Alphabet of breeding, yet without them he can never spell gentleman rightly, though his inside be never so good. Indeed its long ago, that great men dwell no more in thatched houses. 8. But it is not enough to get him into Language and Garbs, if he get him not into Coach and Liveryes, without which he can never appear at Court, or in good company, especially in Rome and Paris; the two chief towns of long abode abroad. For let a man be of a Race as ancient as the Autocthenes of Athens, who said they were as ancient as the Earth; Plutarch. and let him quarter his coat of Arms with the three Lions of England, and the three Flower de-lys of France, as I know a gentleman of little Brittany doth, (by the grant anciently of both those kings) yet I dare boldly say this, that in Paris no colours blazon a man's nobility behind his coach so much, as three Lacquais and a Page, in a handsome Livery. In other towns of France, where young gentlemen use to live at first, till they get the language, a couple of saddle horses would be very useful, both to take the air on, as also to visit the gentry in the country at their summer houses, where a Man will fine great civilityes, and divertisments. Besides riding out so in the fresh evenings of summer, will not only wean my young gentleman from little company, and the crowd of his countrymen who will be then pressing upon him; but will also afford his Governor many fine solitary occasions of plying him alone with good counsels and instructions. 9 And seeing I have touched something above of his servants, and Lacquais, I will add this, that seeing it is none of the least blessings of a young gentleman to have good servants about him, it belongs to his Governor, not only to choose him good ones, but also to have power to turn away bad ones. Many men carry over with them English servants, because they were their schoolfellowes, or their tenants sons: and these are little useful for a long time, and even then when a man hath most need of servants. Besides, they are often too familiar with their masters, their old playfellows; and as often troublesome to their Governors, by takeing their young master's part against them; and by ravelin out at night, as they get their masters to bed, all that the prudent Governor hath been working in the day time. Others carry over Frenchmen with them; but these often, by reason of their prerogative of language, which their masters want at first, get such an ascendent over them, that they come oftentimes to be too bold, and saucy with them. For my part, I would have his Governor, to take him new servants in every place he comes to stay; and those sightly, rather than too sprightly youths: Dull people are made to tug at the oar of obedience, saith Aristotle, w●iles witty people are fitter to sit at the helm of command. 10. But I am to blame to give advice to Governors whom I suppose to be wiser men than myself; and therefore will end here, by wishing them a good journey, and safe return: To the effecting of both which, I found no better secret, them that in my last journey, which was to be mounted upon our own horses, (five of us together) and to spare for no cost: for by this means, we went at our own rates, and eat to our own minds: so true is the Italian Proverb; Picole giornate, egrandi speses, ti conducono sano al tuo paese. In fine, I would have my young traveller make the same prayer of God, as Apollonius Thyanaeus made to the Sun, at his going out to travel, that is, that he would be so favourable to him as to show him all the Bravest and Best men in the world. THE VOYAGE OF ITALY. BEFORE I come to a particular description of Italy, as I found it in my Five several voyages through it, I think it not amiss to speak something in General, of the Country itself, its Inhabitants, their Humours, Manners, Customs, Riches, and Religion. For the Country itself, it seemed to me to be Nature's Darling, The Fertility of Italy. and the Eldest Sister of all other countries; carrying away from them, all the greatest blessings and favours; and receiving such gracious looks from the Sun and Heaven, that if there be any fault in Italy, it is that her Mother Nature hath cockered her too much, even to make her become Wanton. Witness luxuriant Lombardy, and Campania antonomastically Foelix, which Florus, Trogus, and Livy think to be the best parts of the world, where Ceres and Bacchus are at a perpetual strife, whether of them shall court man the most, she by filling his barns with corn; he by making his cellars swim with wine: Whiles the other parts of Italy are sweeting out whole Forests of Olive-trees, whole woods of Lemons, and Oranges, whole fields of Rice, Turkey wheat, and Muskmillions; and where those Bare Hills, which seem to be shaved by the Sun, and cursed by Nature for their barrenes, are oftentimes great with child of precious Marbles, the ornaments of Churches and Palaces, and the Revenues of Princes: witness the Prince of Massa: whose best Revenues are his Marble Quarries: Nature here thinking it a far more noble thing to feed Princes, Then to feed sheep. It abounds also in silks and silkwormes; out of which they draw a notable profit; and for the feeding of them they keep a world of Mulberry trees whose leaves are the food of those little worms, whose excrement is our pride; thus, Adam like, we are called in leaves again, but leaves once removed. It's rich also in pasturage and cattle, especially in Lombardy, where I have seen cheeses of an excessive greatness, and of a Parmesan goodness. The surface also of the earth is covered with many curious simples, and wholesome herbs: Hense so many rare essences, cordials, parfumes, sweet waters, and other odoriferous distillations so common here, that ordinary Barbers, and Laundresses will spinkle them in your face and perfume your linen with them, over and above your bargain. Hence none of the meanest things to be seen in Italy, are the fondaries or stilling houses of the Great Duke of Florence, the speciarie or Apothecary's ●hops, of the Dominicans of S. Marco, and of the Augustins of S. Spirito in Florence; of the Roman College, and of the Minims of Trinita di Monte in Rome: where even death it self would find a cure in nature, if it were not a curse from the author of nature. In fine, it excels in all kind of provisions, either for diet, or sport; and I have seen in Rome whole cartloads of wild boars, and Venison, brought in at once to be sold in the market; and above threescore Hares in Florence brought in, in one day by the two companies of Hunters, the Piacevoli and Piatelli, on a general hunting day. An objection against Italy. Yet after all this, some cryout against Italy, for being too hot; and paint us out its air as an unwholesome pestilential air; its sun, as an angry Comet, whose beams are all pointed with plagues and fevers; and the country itself, as a place, where starving is the only way to live in health; where men eat by method and art; where you must carry your body steadily, or else spill your life; and where there are so many provincial sicknesses and diseases; as the catarrhs of Genua, the Gout of Milan, the Hemorrhoids of Venice, the falling sickness of Florence, the Fevers of Rome, and the Goistre of Piedmont. For my part, when I am told that there were in Plynies time, Answer. fourteen millions of men in Italy: Baltazar Bonifacius in hist. Ludicra l. 13. c. 1●. when I read, that there are now above three thousand Cities in Italy, and most of them Cities of Garbo: when I meet with national diseases in every other country, as the Kingsevil in Spain, the Pox in France, the consumption in Portugal, the colic in England, the dessentery in Gascony, the headacke in Tolouse etc. when I reflect, how this Sun hath blessed Lombardy, and made Campania Happy: when I call to mind, that it hath filled the Cellars of Italy with above Thirty several forts of wines: when I remember, what health it hath poured into several herbs here, what admirable fruits it furnisheth the markets with all, what ornaments it affords to God's houses, overcrustting almost all the chief Churches of Italy, Sol & homo generant hominem. Plutarch in Graccho. with exquisite marbles; when I consider in fine, how this Sun hath helped to make so many brave Soldiers, and Scholars, I dare not speak ill of the Sun, or air of Italy, lest Balzac check me, as Gracchus did him who spoke ill of his mother, with a Tu Matri meae maledicis, ●alzacin 1. volume: litter. quae Tiberium Gracchum genuit? Darest thou speak ill of that Sun which helped to make Caesar? The Inhabitants and their wits. Yes, yes, it's this great blessing of God, warm Sun, which hath so throughly baked the Italian wits, that while (according to the observation of Charles the V) the French appear not wise, but are wise: the spaniards appear wise, but are not wise: the Dutch neither appear wise, nor are wise; The Italians only both appear wise, and are wise. Hence the Italians anciently afforded us those prodigies of wit and learning, and set us those fair copies in liberal arts and sciences, which all men follow, but none attain unto so much, as those that write the Italian hand; that is, the modern Italians themselves. For if the Italians anciently had their Virgil, their Ovid, Poet's Ancient, and Modern in Italy. their Horace, their Persius, and Propertius in Poëtry; the modern Italians spurr close up to them, and have their Taso, their Petrarck, their Sannazarius, their Marino, and Guarini. If the old Italians had their Sallust, Historians. Livy, Tacitus, and Valerius Maximus in history; the modern Jtalians have their Guicciardin, Bentiu●glio, Davila, Strada, and Baptista Fregosus, surnamed the second Valerius Maximus. If the ancient Italians had their pompous Orators, their Cicero, Orators. Hortensius, Porcius Latro, junius Gallio, Aulius Fuscus etc. The modern Italians have their Panigarola, Manzini, Varchi, and Loredano. If the ancient Italians had their Vast knowing Varro; Prodigies of learning. the modern Italians have their omniscious Baronius, who red almost all that other men had written, and wrote more almost, than other men can read. Divines. If the ancient Italians had their Divines, writing of the Number and Nature of their Gods, to wit, Varro and Tully; the modern Italians have their Divines too, their inimitable S. Thomas of Aquin, and his learned second Cardinal Caïetan. Philosophers. If the ancient Italians had their Philosophers, their Pliny, their Cato, their Seneca etc. the modern Jtalians have their Ficinus, their Cardan, and their Picus Mirandula. Architects. If the ancient Italians had their rare Architects, Statuaries, Painters; the modern Jtalians have their Brunelleschi, Palladio, Fontana, and Cronaco, in Architecture; their Bandinelli, Donatello, Oli●●ri●, and Bernini in Sculpture; Sculptors. their Raphael, Michael Angelo, Titian, and Sarto, in painting. Painters. If in fine, the ancient Italians had their brave Captains, their Scipio, Ancient and modern Captains. Duilius, Marius, and Cesar, the modern Italians have their Scipio too, towit, their Alexander Farnese, whose true actions make Romances blush, having done that really, which Fables can scarce feign in gallantry: Their Duilius too, towit, their Andrea Doria, the Neptune of the Ligurian Seas, who alone taught his country not to serve: Their Marius also, towit, their brave Castruccio, who from a Common soldier mounted up by deserts to the highest military commands in the Emperor's army; and so stitched his fortune as he went along to honours, that it never raveled out again, or failed him: In fine, their Caesar too, towit, the Marquis Spinola, or rather, the Achilles of Italy, who took that Troy, of ostend, after three years' Siege. This Siege was far more famous than that of Troy, because far truer. For in the Siege of Troy, it was Poëtry only that made the war, that framed and filled the wooden horse with worthies; See Verstegan in his restitution of decayed intelligence. that draged Hector round about the walls. It was pen and ink that killed so many men somno vin●que sepultos; and Troy was easily burnt, because it was built of Poet's Paper. But at Osten all was real, and all Europe almost, who had their forces, or eyes there, were witnesses of it; and all this done by Spinola an Italian. The Italian Humour. As for the Italian humour, it is a middling humour, between too much gravity of the spaniard, and too great levity of the French. Their gravity is notwithout some fire, nor their levity without some phlegm. They are apish enough in Carneval time, and upon their stages, as long as the vizard is on; but that once off, they are too wise to play the fools in their own names, and own it with their own faces. They have strong fancies, and yet solid judgements; A happy temper, which makes them great Preachers, Politicians, and Engineers; but withal they are a little too melancholy and jealous; They are great lovers of their brethren and near kindred, as the first friends they are acquinted withal by nature; and if any of them lie in pass and fair for advancement, all the rest of his relations will lend him their purses, as well as their shoulders, to help him up, though he be but their younger brother. They are sparing in diet, both for to live in health, and to live handsomely: making their bellies contribute to the maintenance of their backs, and their kitchen help to the keeping of their stable. They are ambitious still of honours, remembering they are the successors of the masters of the world, the old Romans; and to put the world still in mind of it, they take to themselves the glorious names of Camillo, Scipione, Julio, Mario, Pompeo etc. They are as sensible also of their honour, as desirous of honours; and this makes them strict to their wifes even to jealousy, knowing that for one Cornelius Tacitus, there have been ten Publij Cornelij; and that Lucius Cornificius is the most affronting man. They are hard to be pleased, when thy have been once read hot with offence; but they will not meet revenge in the face, and field; and they will rather hire it, then take it. In fine they affect very much compounded names, as Pi●colomini, Capilupo, Bentivoglio, Malespina, Boncompagno, Maluezzi, Riccobono, Malatesta, Homodei, and such like married Names. Their manners. As for their Manners, they are most commendable. They have taught them in their books, they practise them in their actions, See Monsignor Caza, Stephano Guazzo, Baltazar Castiglione and they have spread them abroad over all Europe, which owes its Civility unto the Jtalians, as well as its Religion. They never affront strangers in what habit soever they appear; and if the strangeness of the habit draw the Jtalians, eye to it, yet he will never draw in his mouth to laugh at it. As for their apparel, or dress, it's commonly black, and modest. They value no bravery but that of Coach and horses and Staffiers; and they sacrifice a world of little satisfactions to that main one of being able to keep a Coach. Their Points de Venice, ribans and goldlace, are all turned into horses and liveries; and that money which we spend in treats and Taverns, they spend in coach and furniture. They never whisper privately with one another in company, not speak to one another aloud in an unknown tongue when thy are in conversation with others, thinking this to be no other than a loud whispering. They are precise in point of Ceremony and reception; Their Ceremonies. and are not puzzeled at all, when they hear a great man is coming to visit them. There's not a man of them, but he knows how to entertain men of all conditions; that is, how far to meet, how to place them, how to style and treat them, how to reconduct them, and how far. They are good for Nunciatures, Embassies, and State employments, being men of good behaviour, looks, temper, and discretion, and never outrunning their business. They are great lovers of Music, Meddales, Statues, and Pictures, as things which either divert their melancholy, or humour it: and I have read of one Jacomo Raynero a shoemaker of Bolognia, who gathered together so many curious Medals of Gold, silver, and brass, as would have becomne the Cabinet of any Prince. In fine, they are extremely civil to one another, not only out of an awe they stand in one towards another, not knowing whose turn it may be next, to come to the highest honours; but also out of a natural gravity, and civil education, which makes even schoolboyes (an insolent Nation any where else) most respectful to one another in words and deeds; treating one another with Vostra Signoria, and abstaining from all gioco di mano. Nay masters themselves here, never beat their servant, but remit them to justice, if the fault require it, and I cannot remember to have heard in Rome, two women scold publicly, or man and wife quarrel in words, except once; and then they did it so privately and secretly, and scolded in such a low tone, that I perceived the Italians had reason about them even in the midst of their choler. Their particular customs. As for their particular customs, they are many. They marry by their ears, oftener than by their eyes; and scarce speak with one another, till they meet before the Parish Priest, to speak the indissoluable words of wedlock. They make children go barehead till they be four or five years old, hardening them thus against rheums and catarrhs when they shall be old. Hence few people in Italy go so warm on their heads, as they do in France; men in their houses wearing nothing upon their heads but a little calotte; and women for the most part, going all barehead in the midst of winter itself. Women here also wash their heads weekly in a wash made for the nonce, and dry them again in the Sun, to make their hair yellow, a colour much in vogue here among Ladies. The men throw of their hats, cuffs, and bands, as well as their cloaks, at their return home from visits, or business, and put on a grey coat, without which they cannot dine, or sup; and I have been invited to dinner by an Italian, who before dinner, made his men take of our hats and cloaks, and present every one of us (and we were five in all) with a coloured coat, and a little cap to dine in. At dinner they serve in the best meats first, and eat backwards▪ that is, they begin with the second course, and end with boiled meat and pottage. They never present you with salt, or brains of any fowl, lest they may seem to reproach unto you want of wit. They bring you drink upon a Sottocoppa of silver, with three or four glasses upon it; Two or three of which are straight necked glasses (called there caraffas) full of several sorts of wines or water, and one empty drinking glass, into which you may pour what quantity of wine and water you please to drink, and not stand to the discretion of the waiters, as they do in other countries. At great feasts, no man cuts for himself, but several carvers cut-up all the meat at a side table, and give it to the waiters to be carried to the guests; and every one hath the very same part of meat carried unto him, to wit, a wing and a leg of wild fowl etc. lest any one take exceptions that others were better used than he. The Carvers never touch the meat with their hands, but only with their knife and fork, and great Silver spoon for the sauce. Every man here eats with his fork and knife, and never toucheth any thing with his fingers, but his bread: This keeps the linen neat, and the fingers sweet. If you drink to an Italian, he thanks you, with bending, when you salute him, and lets you drink quietly, without watching (as we do in England) to thank you again when you have drunk: and the first time he drinks after that, will be to you, in requital of your former courtesy. They count not the hours of the day as we do, from twelve to twelve; but they begin their count from sunset, and the first hour after sunset, is one a clock; and so they count on till four and Twenty, that is, till the next sunset again. I have often dined at sixteen a clock, and gone abroad in the evening, to take the air, at two and twenty. They call men much by their Christian names, Signior Pietro, Signior Francisco, Signior Jacomo etc. and you may live whole years with an Italian, Nomen, quasi no●amen. S. Aug. and be very well acquinted with him without knowing him, that is, without knowing his distintive surname. People of quality never visit one another, but they send first, to know when they may do it without troubleing him they intent to visit: by this means they never rush into one another's chambers without knocking, as they do in France; nor cross the designs, or business of him they visit, as they do in England with tedious dry visits; nor find one another either undressed in clothes, vnprouided in compliments and discourse, or without their attendants, and train about them. In the streets men and women of condition seldom or never go together in the same coach, except they be strangers, that is, of an other town, or country: nay husbands and wives are Seldom seen together in the same coach, because all men do not know them to be so. In the streets, when two persons of great quality meet, as two Ambassadors, or two Cardinals, they both stop their coaches, and compliment one another civility, and then retire; but still he that is inferior must let the others coach move first. If any man being a foot in the street, meet a great man, either in coach, or a foot, he must not salute him in going on his way, as we do in England and France, without stopping; but he must stand still whiles the other passeth, and bend respectfully to him as he goes by, and then continue his march. In fine, of all the Nations I have seen, I know none that lives, clothes, eats, drinks, and speaks so much with reason, as the Italians do. As for their Riches, Their Riches. they must needs be great. That which is visible in their magnificent Palaces, Churches, Monasteries, Gardens, Fountains, and rich furnished Rooms, speaks that to be great which is in their coffers: and that which the King of spain draws visibly from Naples every year, shows what the other parts of Italy could do for a need, if they were put to it by necessity. Nay, I am of opinion, that the very Sacristy of Loreto, the Gallery of the Duke of Florence, and the Treasury of Venice, would upon an emergent occasion of a Gothick, or Turkish invasion, be able to maintain an army for five years' space; and the Plate in Churches and Monasteryes, would be able to do as much more, if the owners of it were sound frighted with a new Gothick irruption. As for the Riches of particular Princes in Italy, I will speak of them, as I view their Stats here below. In fine, as for their Religion, it's purely that which other countries call by its true name, Their Religion. Catholic; and which in England they commonly call, the Religion of the Papists. And though there they think to nickname the Catholic by calling him Papist, yet the well instructed Catholic knowing that the name of Papist, comes not from any Sectmaster, as Caluinist, Lutheran, Socinian, and Brownist do; nor from any Sectary meeting place, as Hugonots from the Gate of Hugo in Towers in France, near unto which they met privately at first to teach and dogmatise: nor from any public sectary action, as Anabaptists, Dippers, Quakers etc. do: but from the word Papa, which signifies Father, and is not the name of any one man, or Pope, but only signifies his Fatherly office of Pastor; tho Catholic I say, is no more troubled at this name of Papist, than he was when he was called in the late troubles, royalist (for adhering to the king, which is not the name of any of our kings, Rex est nomen officij. S. Ambr. but his office only) and not Cromwellist, which was the name of one adhering to a particular man called Cromwell, and an unlawful usurper of Power. As for the true name indeed, which is Catholic, it is so known to belong to those of the Roman Church, that besides that all those of that Church have ever called themselves by no other name then this of Catholic, the wisest of Protestants also acknowledge it publicly to be their distinctive name: witness that solemn meeting at Munster, some years ago, about the General Peace of Christendom, where the Public Jnstrument of that Peace showeth plainly how that the Protestant Plenipotentiaries (the wisest men of that Religion) treated with the Papists, as some call them, under the name of Catholics: and though in many other titles and denominations, they were very wary and scrupulous, even to the long suspension of the Peace, yet they willingly concluded, subscribed, and signed that Peace made with them, under the name of Catholics. I say this only, for to make men understand, what the true name of the Religion practised over all Italy is, to-wit, Catholic. Having said thus much of Italy in General, I will now come to a particular Description of it, according to the ocular observations I made of it in five several Voyages through it. In which Description if I be a little prolix, it is because I rid not Post through Italy, when I saw it; nor will I write post through it in describing it; being assured, that Epitomees in Geography are as dissatisfactory, as Laconic Letters would be in state Relations; and that the great Atlas, in nine great volumes in folio, is not only Atlas' Mayor, but also Atlas Melior. The several ways by which a man may go into Italy. THE ordinary ways which an Englishman may take in going into Italy, are five: to wit, either through Flanders and Germany; and so to fall in at Trent, or Treviso, and so to Venice. Or else by France, and so to Marseilles, and thence to Genua by Sea. Or else by land from Lions through Switzerland, the Grisons' country, and the Valteline, and so pop up at Brescia. Or else from Lions again through the Valesians' country, over Mount Sampion, the Lake Maior, and so to Milan. Or else in fine, from Lions still, over Mount Cenis, and so to Turin, the nearest Posteway. I have gone, or come, all these ways in my five voyages into Italy, and though I prefer the last for speed and conveniency; yet I will describe the others too, that my young Traveler may know how to streere his course, either in time of plague or war. My first Voyage into Italy. MY first voyage was through Flanders and Germany, and so to Trent. The way is, from England, to Dunkerque; from thence to Furne, Newport, Ostend, Bruges, Gant, Brussels, Louvain, Liege, Colen, Mayence, Francfort, and so crossing to Munichen, the Court of the Duke of Bavaria, and from thence to Ausburg, and Inspruck, you come soon to Trent, which stands upon the confines of Germany, and lets you into Italy, by Treviso belonging to the Venetians. To describe all these foresaid places would take me too much time from my design of describing Italy, and therefore I content myself only to have named them. My second Voyage. MY second Voyage was by the way of France, where I started from Paris, and made towards Lions; in the way I took notice of these places. Yssone a neat house belonging then to Monsieur Essolin. Yssone: The house is so pretty, that I think it worth the travellers seeing, and my describing. It stands in the shade of a thick grove of trees, and is wholly built and furnished al' Italiana. Under the side of the house runs a little brook, which being received into a Basin of freestone, just as long as the house, and made like a ship, (that is, sharp at both ends and wide in the middle) it is cloven, and divided in two, by the sharp end of this ship, and conveyed in close channels of freestone, on both sides of the ship or basin, into which it emptyes itself by several tunnels, or pipes: so that all this water spouting into the open ship on both sides, by four and twenty tunnels, makes under the windows of the house such a perpetual purleing of water, (like many fountains) that the gentle noise is able to make the most jealous man sleep profundly. At the other end of the house this water issueth out of the other end of the said ship, and is courteously entreated by several hidden pipes of lead, to walk into the house, instead of running by so fast: Which it doth, and is presently led into the Cellars, and Buttery; and not only into these, but also into the kitchen, stables, chambers, and bathing room, all which it furnisheth with water either for necessity, or pleasure. Then being led into the curiours' garden, it's met there by a world of little open channels of freestone built like knots of flowers; all which it fills brimful, and makes even Flowers of water. Then running up and down here and there among the fragrant delights of this garden, as if it had forgotten its errand to the Sea, it seems to be so taken with those sweet beds of flowers, and so desirous of resting upon them, after so many miles running, that i● offers to turn itself into any posture, rather than be turned out of this sweet place. From Yssonne I came to Fontainbelleau, Fontainbelleau. where I saw that Kingly house, the Nonesuch of France. It stands in the midst of a great Forest full of Royal game, and was the place of delight of Henry the Fourth. The house is capable of lodging four kings with their several Courts. The Court of the Cheval blanc is a noble squaire of building; The Court of the Cheval Blanc but the lowness of the buildings and lodgings shows, they are for the lower Sort of people, and the seruant-lodgings to the Royal appartiments. The Oual Court is a good old building. The Oual Court. The Kings and Queens lodgings with their Cabinets groan under their rich guilt roofs. The Gallery of stags heads is a stately room, The Gallery of stags heads. than which nothing can be more Cavalierly furnished; except such an other gallery hung with Turkish standards won in war. The other long Galleries of Romances and Fables, The Galleries of Romances. painted by Simon Voyët and other, are much esteemed: the only pity is, that such true painting should not have been employed upon true histories. The Salle of the Conference, The Salle of the Conference. is a stately Room, where the Bishop of Eureux (afterwards called the Cardinal du Perron) in presence of king Henry the Fourth, See the Public Acts of this Conference printed an. 1601. the chancellor, five judges of both Religions, and the whole Room full of learned men, so confuted Monsieur Plessis Mornay, the Achilles of those of Charenton, that after the first day's Conference, he durst never enter the list again, as he promised; but died soon after fuller of shame, than years. The Hall for masks, and the Lodgings of Madam Gabrielle with her picture over the Chimney like a Diana hunting, Madame Gabriells picture. are fine Rooms: yet the fair picture cannot hinder men from blameing her foul life; nor from censureing that solecism of the painter, who made chaste Diana look like Madam Gabrielle. The Chapels. There are also here two Chapels, the old, and the new. The old one is a poor thing; and seems to have been built for hunters: but the new one is both neat and stately, and built upon this occasion, as a Bishop in France told me. A spanish Ambassador resideing in Paris in Henry the IV. his time, went one day from Paris to Fontainbleau, to see this French Escurial. Arriveing, he lighted after his country's fashion, at the Chapel door (the old Chapel) and entering in, to thank God for his saif arrival, he wondered to see so poor and dark a chapel, and ask with indignation whether this were the Casa di Dios? The house of God? he turned presently a way with scorn, Saying, No quiero Veer mass; I care for seeing no more: not staying to see that place, where the king had so a fine a house, and God so poor a Chapel. This being told the last king Lewis the XIII. he commanded forth with the new Chapel to be built in that sumptuous posture we now see it. Going out of the house, you find a handsome Mail, and Rare Ponds of water, which even baptise this place with the name of Fontainbelleau. In these Ponds, as also in the moat about the house, are conserved excellent Carp; Old Carp some whereof were said to be a hundred years old: which though we were not bound to believe; yet their very white scales, and dull moving up and down, might make men believe that there are grey scales, as well as grey hairs; and decayed fishes, as well as decrepit men: especially when Columella speaks of a fish of his acquaintance, De re Rust in Caesar's fish ponds near Pausilipus, which had lived threescore years; and Gesnerus relates, that in a fishpond near Haylprum in Suabe, a fish was catched anno 1497, with a brass ring at his gills, in which were engraven these words: I am the first fish which Federic the second, Governor of the world put into this Pond the 5 of October 1203. By which it appears, that this fish had lived two hundred and sixty odd years. But to return again to our Carp of Fontainbelleau, it's an ordinary divertissement here to throw a halfpenny loaf into the moat among the Carp, and to see how they will mumble and jumble it to and fro; how others will puff and snuff and take it ill, not to have part of it; and how in fine, they will plainly fall to blows, and fight for it. You would wonder, how such hot passions should be found in cold water: but every thing that lives, will fight for that which makes it live, its Victuals. Having seen Fontainbelleau, An old Inscription concerning Englishmen. I saw on extraordinary thing in the rest of the way to Lions, but an old Inscription in letters of gold, upon a wooden Fabric, a mile before I came to Montargis, importing, that the English being encamped here, had been forced to raise their Siege before Montargis, by reason of great reins and sudden inundations. Some of the French historians will have it, that it was the Count de Dunois, that forced the English to raise the Siege here: but I had rather believe public inscriptions, then private flattery: and it was more honourable for the English to be overcome by God, then by men. Montargis. From hence I passed through Montargis, a neat pleasant town; in the great Hall of whose Castle, is painted the history of the dog that fought a Duel with the Murderer of his Master; and it is not strange that the Dog, that had put on humanity, overcame him that had put it of, to espouse the devouring humour of a Dog. This is the chief town of the Gastinois. Briare. From hence I went to Briare where I saw the cut channel that joins Loire and Seine together in traffic, The Conjunction of Loire and Sene. whose beds oftherwise stand wide from one another in situation. From thence to Cosne, la Charité, Pougues famous for wholesome stinking waters; Nevers, famous for glass houses; Moulins, famous for knives and Scissors: lafoy Palisse where they make excellent winter boots: Roanne where Loire begins to be navigable: and so over Terrara hills to Lions. Lion's is one of the greatest and richest towns in France. It stands upon the river's Saone, Lions. and Rhosne, (Araxis and Rhodanus) and intercepting all the merchandise of Burgundy, Germany, and Italy, It licks its fingers notably, and thrives by it. It expresseth this in its looks: for here you have handsome people, noble houses, great jollity, frequent balls, and much bravery: all marks of a good town: and could it but intercept either the Parliament of Aix, or Grenoble, it would be as noble as its name, or as its Catedral Chapter, A noble Chapter. whose Dean and prebend's are all counts, and noble of four descents▪ they got the title of counts thus: A great contest arriseing between the Chapter of S. john's Church, and the Count de Forests called Guigo, for some rights over the town of Lions which they both pretended to; at last anno 1166. they came to an agreement, upon this condition, that the Count should leave to the Chapter his County of Forests; which he did; and so ever since the Decane and prebend's have been called Counts of S. john. The chief things to be seen in Lions are these. 1. The great Church, or Cathedral, called john's Church. S. john's Church. It's the Seat of an Archbishop, who is Primate of Gaul. S. Irenaeus was a great ornament of this Church, as was also Eucherius. Upon solemn days the Canons officiate in Mitres like Bishops. They sing here all the office by heart, and without book, as also without pricksong music, organs, or other instruments, useing only the ancient plainsong. The High Altar is like those of Italy, that is, open on all sides, with a Crucifix and two little candlesticks upon it. I never saw any hangings in this Church, not upon the greatest days, but Venerable old walls. The clock here is much cried up for a rare piece. The Town house. 2. The stately new Town house, of pure white freestone, able to match that of Amsterdam; and indeed they seemed to me to be twins; for I saw them both in the same year as they were in building. The curious staircase, and Hall above, are the things most worthy taking notice of, the own for its contrivanc; the other for its painting. 3. Other Rarities. The Jesuits College and fair Library. 4. The Carthusians Monastery upon a high Hill. 5. The Minims Sachristy well painted. 6. The rests of the old Aqueduct upon the Hill. 7. The Mail, and the sweet place of Belle Cour. 8. The Heart of saint Francis de Sales in the Church of the Visitation in Belle Cour. 9 The Charité where all the poor are kept at work with admirable oeconomy: It looks like a little town, having in it nine courts, all built up with lodgings for the poor, who are about fifteen hundred, and divided into several Classes, with their several Refectories and Chapels. 10. The Head of S. Bonaventure in the Cordeliers Church. 11. The Castle of Pierre Ancise, built upon a rock. 12. Nostre Dame de Fouruier standing upon a high hill, from whence you have a perfect view of Lions. 13. The rare Cabinet of Monsieur Seruier. Lastly the rare Cabinet of Monsieur Seruier a most ingenious gentleman; where I saw most rare experiments in Mathematiks and Mechanics; all made by his own hand: as the sympathetic balls, one springing up at the approach of the other held up a pretty distance off: the demonstration of a quick way how to pass an army over a river with one boat, and a wooden bridge easily to be folded up upon one cart: the mouse dial, where a little thing, like a mouse, by her insensible motion, marks the hours of the day. The Lizard Dyal is much like the former, only the mouse moves upon a plain frame of wood which hath the hours marked on it; and the Lizard creeps upward from hour to hour. The night dial, showing by a lighted lamp set behind it, the hours of the night, which are painted in colours upon oiled Paper, and turn about as the time goes. The Tortoise dial, where a piece of cork cut like a Tortoise, being put into a puter dish of water, which hath the twelve hours of the day marked upon its brims, goeth up and down the water a while, seeking out the hour of the day that is then; and there fixeing itself without stirring. The Rare engine teaching how to throw Grenadoes into besieged towns, and into any precise place without failing. The way how to set up a watchtower with a man in it, to look into a town from without, and see how they are drawn up within the town. a way how to change dineing Rooms three or four times, with their tables, the Seats and guests being by the turning of a wheel transported sitting, out of one Room into another; and so into three or four more Rooms variously hung with tables covered. The Desk dial, which throws up a little ball of ivory without rest, and thereby marketh the hour of the day, and showeth what a clock it is: the Dial of the Planets representing the days of the week by several figures in ivory of the planets: the Oual dyal in which the needle that marks the hours, shrinketh in, or stretcheth out itself according as the oval goes: the dial showing to every one that toucheth it his predominant passion; with a world of other rare curiosities, all made by this ingenious gentleman. Leaving Lions, I embarked in a Cabanne, or little covered boat, and descending the rapid Rhosne, I came post by wather, to Vienne; Vienne. were Pontius Pilate, banished hither, threw himself off a high Tower, and killed himself. The Cathedral of this town is a fair Church dedicated to God, in the honour of S. Maurice: there are neither Pictures, nor hangings in this Church. Tournon. From hence I went to Tournon, where I saw a good Library in the College. Valence. Thence to Valence in Dauphiné, where Law is taught. Pont S. Esprit. From whence I came to Pont Saint Esprit famous for its long bridge of therty three arches, and for the bones of a Giant which are conserved in the Dominicans Convent here; And from hence to Auignon. Auignon. Auignon is the head town of a little country, called Vulgarly the Le Contad d'Auignon. It belongs to the Pope, having been purchased by one of his predecessors anciently of jane Queen of Naples and Countess of Auignon: and it served for a saif retreat to divers Popes consecutively, during the troubles of Italy which lasted above seventy years. At last, Italy, and the Pope's territories there, being cleared by the admirable courage and conduct of brave Cardinal Albornozzo, who conquered again all the Pope's estate, The Pope, Greg. the XI, returned home again to Rome▪ of the foresaid Cardinal Albornozzo I cannot omit to tell one thing; that after his great services rendered to the Pope, being envied by some of the Court, who had persuaded his Holiness to call him to an account for the great sums of money he had spent in reduceing again the whole state of the Pope unto its obedience; he brought the next morning a cart laden with chains, bolts, locks and keys belonging once to those towns which he had retaken for the Pope, and place-ed it under the Pope's window: then going up, and desiring his Holiness to draw to a window to see his accounts the better, he opened the window, and showed him below, the Cart laden with chains, bolts, locks and keys, saying: Holy Father, I spent all your money in making you master again of those towns whose keys, locks, bolts and chains you see in that cart below. At which the Pope admireing, desired no more account of him, who proved his honesty by whole cart loads of services. Ever since that time, Auignon hath belonged to the Pope; and he governeth it by a Vice-Legat immediately, the Pope's Nephew pro tempore being always Legate of this town. The rarities. The things I saw here were these. 1. The Cathedral Church with divers tombs of Popes in it that died here. 2. The Church of S. Didier, with the tomb of Peirus Damianus who followed the Pope hither: He was famous for his learned works, and his known sanctity. 3. The Church of the Celestins, with the tomb, and neat Chapel of Cardinal Peter of Luxenbourg, a young man of a great family, and of a greater sanctity. 4. The Carthusians Monastery in the bourg of Villenewe, where you shall see much good painting. 5. The Dominicans fair Convent, with the Chapel and true Picture of S. Vincentius Ferrerius a holy man of this Order. 6. The Cordeliers Church famous for its wideness, and yet not supported by any pillars. Here lies buried Madam Laura rendered so famous by Petrarches Verses: not that the was a dishonest woman, but only chosen by him, to be the poëticall mistress of his sonnets. 7. The Church of the Fathers of the Christian doctrine, with the body, yet entire, of the Founder of their order P. Caesar de Bus, a man of such singular sanctity, that Cardinal Richlieu banished hither, whiles he was only Bishop of Luson, offered and vowed a silver Lamp to God at the tomb of this holy Bea●●. 8. The fine freestone walls of this town, the admirable Bridge, many handsome Palaces, and curious gardens. 9 The trading of this town, which consists much in silkstuffs, parfumed gloves, rubans, and sine paper. 10. The inhabitants here, who love to go well adiusted and appear in fine clothes. Aix. From Auignon I went by Land to Aix in Provence, an University, a Parliament town, and one of the neatest towns in France: of the Parliament of this town Monsieur du Vair was the first Precedent, and a singular ornament, by reason of his famous eloquence. This town is the seat of an Archbishop; and is now possessed by Cardinal Grimaldi who is Archbishop here. From hence I went to Marseilles. Marseilles. Marseilles is a very ancient town, built 633 years before our Saviour's time, and so famous anciently for learning, that it was compared with Athens. It stands upon the Medeterranean Sea, and hath a most neat haven and harbour for ships and galleys. I stayed here eight days to wait upon the return of two Galleys of Genua, that had brought an Ambassador from thence into France, and were to return within a few days. In this time I had leisure to make a little excursive Voyage to the famous place of devotion called La saint Beaume, La saint Baume. where S. Mary Magdalen lived a most penitential life in these mountains and deserts, See Baronius ad an. 35. gordon's Cronology. Gerard of Nazareth in a treatise ex professo. even after she had been assured of her pardon by out Saviour himself. The place itself is able to make any man that considereth it well, melt into some penance too, and sigh at least, to see how much she (a woman) did, and how little he (a man) doth; for excellentissima animaduertenti, ne mediocria quidem praestare, rubori oportet esse, saith a great Author. In Marseills itself there remain some prints of her begunn's penance: Valer. Max. but she that had been a sinner in the City (and perchance by that occasion only) thought the Desert a safer place; Mulier peccatrix in civitate. and so showed her conversion to be true, by flying the occasions of her former sins. If you ask me, how Mary Magdalen came hither; I must ask you, See Baron. an. 35 Genebrad Gautier. Chassanus. and Monsieur du Vair. how joseph of Arimathia came into England: and learned Baronius will answer us both, by telling us, that upon a persecution raised against the Christians in Jerusalem; Marry Magdalen, her Sister Martha, her brother Lazarus, with joseph of Arimathia and divers others of the first Christians, were exposed to Sea in a ship without sails, without rudder, without anchor, without pilot, and yet the ship came happily to Marseills; where Lazarus preaching the faith of Christ, was made the first Bishop of this town; and joseph of Arimathia came into England. Near to Saint Beaume stands, the town of S. Maximin famous for the Church of S. Maximin governed by Dominican Friars: S, Maximin. In this Church are to be seen many famous Relics of S. Mary Magdalen; as her head in a Crystal case enchased in gold: her body in a guilt chasse, and divers other rich things. Having seen Marseilles, I embarked in the forsayd Galleys, and was nine days in them before I arrived at Genua; having seen in the way, Toulon, Nice, Antibo, Monaco, and Savona. Thus I passed, though tediously, yet securely from France into Italy by Sea: and I could almost wish my Traveler to take the same course, if he were sure to find two Galleys well manned as I did, to carry him thither. Otherwise to venture himself (as men ordinarily with extraordinary danger do) in a little Feluca, a boat little bigger than a pair of oars, Pyrrho dicebat, nihil interest, inter vitam & mortem. is a thing I would wish none to do, but Pyrrhonians, and Indifferents who think danger and security to be the same thing. For my part, though I dare not say with that cowardly Italian, who being laughed at for running away in a battle, answered: I was not afraid, but only had a mind to try, how long a man's skinn, well kept, would last: yet I dare say with Generous Cato, that I repent me sound, if ever I went by water, when I could have gone by Land. My third Voyage. MY third Voyage into Italy was again by the way of Paris and Lions: but now by Geneva and Switzerland. Parting then from Lions I passed over the Grand Credo, a smart hill; through Nantua standing upon a Lake, and in two days came to Geneva. Geneva, Geneva. like a good sink at the bottom of three streets, is built at the bottom of Savoye, France, and Germany, and therefore fit to receive into it the corruption, of the Apostatas of the Roman Church. The things which I saw in Geneva were these: 1. The great Church of S. Peter, The rarities. the Cathedral anciently of the Bishop of this town. In the Choir I saw yet remaining the Pictures of the twelve Prophets on one side, and the pictures of the twelve Apostles on the other side, all engraven in wood. The pictures also of the Blessed Virgin Mary, and S. Peter, in one of the windows. Here also I saw the Tomb of the Duke of Bovillon General of the army of Germans, called then in France the Reiters, who in the battle of Aulneau were beaten by the Duke of Guise and forced to fly to Geneva, having last 1800 of their men upon the place, most of them with charms about their necks, which they thought would have made them shot free. Mounting up to the steeple, I saw a fair Bell with a Crucifix cast upon it, showing whose it was; and four good pieces of ordinance, that none may say, the Church of Geneva wants Ecclesiastical Cannons. And a little below in the Belfree, there live in several Chambers, three or four families of husbands and wives and sucking children begotten there; contrary to the Canons of any other Church, except those of Geneva. From the top of this Church you have a fair prospect upon the lake and neighbouring countries; which makes them brag here, that they can see from their steeple, into six several principalities, to wit, their own, France, Savoye, Switzerland, the Valesians, and the Franchecounty: But I told them, it would be a greater brag, to say, that they could see into no other country, or dominions but their own. 2. I saw the Arsenal, little, but well stored with defensive arms. They never forget to show the Ladders of the Savoyards, who attempted to surprise this town by scaling, but were themselves taken and beheaded à la chaude, lest some Prince should have interceded for them. 3. The Town house with the Chamber where the Magistrates (something like the Hogen mogen's of Holland) sit in Counsel. 4. They showed me here a Library but none of the best. 5. The admirable Trout here, able to make the poor Apostatas wish for their Lent again; were it not, that the Capons here are full as good in their kind. As for the Government of this town, it was anciently Monarchical, and the Bishop was Prince of it under the Duke of Savoye: but Farel and Calvin coming hither with their anarchical Presbytery, drove the Bishop Peter de la Beaume out of the town; and established there a kind of Democraty, or rather, a kind of aristocraty, mingled of Laymen and Ministers. Yet the Bishop keeps still his title, and the Chapter its revenues and Lands, which happily lie in Savoye out of the reach of the short jurisdiction of Geneva. Both the Bishop and Chapter reside in Anisy in Savoye, and officiate in the Cordeliers Church. of this Seat was Bishop the late Canonised Saint, S. Francis de Sales, a man of singular sweetness and piety, Petrus a S. Romualdo in Diario. mingled with zeal and discretion. I have red of him, that in his life time, he made four thousand sermons to the people. Having thus seen the little All of Geneva, I made towards Switzerland, leaving the Lake on my right hand; The Lake of Geneva or rather takeing it on my right hand; for it would needs accompany me to Lausanna, where it took leave of me, or I of it. This Lake is absolutely the fairest I have seen: it's fairer than either the Lake Maior, the Lake of Como, the Lake of Zuric, the Lake of Walenstat, the Lake of Jsee, the Lake of Murat, or the Lake of Garda. In some places this Lake of Geneva is eight miles broad, and well nigh fifty miles long. I have red of a stranger, who travelling that way alone in winter, when the Lake was all frozen over, and covered with snow, took the Lake for a large plain, and rid upon it eight, or ten miles to the town: Where lighting at his Inn, and commending the fine plain over which he had ridden, was given to understand, that he had ridden, if not in the air, at least fifteen fathom above ground; at which, the poor man reflecting upon the danger he had been in, fell down dead with the conceit of it. Thus we are troubled not only at evils to come but at evils past; and are never so near the danger of death, as when we are newly past it. No animal but man, hath this folly. Lausanna. Leaving then, as I said, the Lake I came soon after, to Lausanna in Switzerland, belonging to the Canton of Berne. Here I saw an ancient Church of a noble structure, and once a Bishop's Cathedral, but now possessed by Ministers of Calvin's communion; and the man that showed us the Church (though no Catholic) assured us, that the records of that Church bore, that Mass had been said in it thirteen hundred years ago. Switzerland. From Lausanna I went towards Soleur, skirting through the Cantons, sometimes of Berne, sometimes of Fribourg, and sometimes in one day's journey, I passed into a Catholic Canton, and by and by, into a Protestant Canton again: for here Catholic and Protestant Villages are mingled together, and make the country look like the back side of a pair of tables chequered with white and black. In one Village you have a Cross set up, to signify that it is Catholic belonging to the Canton of Friburg; by and by in an other Village, a high flag with the picture of a Bear in it, to signify, Berne signifies as much as Bear. that it belongs to the Canton of Berne, and is Protestant: and yet they live civilly and neighbourly together without quarrelling about Religion. Soleur, Passing thus a long, I came to Soleur (Soloturrum in Latin) a neat town and Head of a Canton. They are all Catholics here: and here it is that the French Ambassadors to the Swissers, always reside, as the Spanish Ambassadors do at Lucerna. This town is very ancient, as the golden Letters upon the clock testify; Petrus Romualdus in Cronolog. Tresor. to. 1. pag. 83. in fol. for those words make Soleur to be only younger than her Sister Trevers, which, as Aeneas Silvius writes, was built 1300 years before Rome. As for Soleur, I find in good Cronologers that it was built 2030 years after the creation of the world. From Soleur I went to Murat, a little town famous for a great battle fought hard by it, by the Duke of Burgundy, and the Swissers. For the the Duke of Burgundy beseiging Murat, Murat. the Swissers came upon him with a great army, and defeated him. I was told here that the Duke seeing his army defeated, and himself environed on one side by the Lake here; and on the other side, by the enemy's conquering army, chose rather to trust himself to the Lake, then to his enemies. Whereupon spurring his horse into the Lake, The Lake of Murat. one of his Dages, to save himself also, leapt up behind him as he took water. The Duke out of fear either perceived him not at first, or dissembled it till he came to the other side of the Lake which is two miles broad: The stout horse tugged through with them both, and saved them both from drowning, but not both from death. For the Duke seeing in what danger his page had put him, stabbed the Page with his dagger. Poor Prince! thou might'st have given an other offering of thanks giving to God for thy escape then this; nay, thou might'st have been as civil as thy horse, and have spaired him, whom beasts and waves had saved: At least by that means, thou might'st have saveed thy own honour, by saveing that poor page who offended rather out of fear of death, than out of malice; and thereby thou might'st have truly said, that thou hadst not lost all thy men in that battle. But passion is a blind thing: Nothing is so dangerous to man, as man; and, as I observed above, we are never in greater danger, then when we think we are past danger. Thebones of the Burgundians slain in this battle, are seen in a great Chapel, which stands a little distant from the town, and upon the road, with an inscription upon it touching the time and circumstances of this defeat. From Murat I made towards Zuric, a head town also of a Canton. It stands most sweetly upon a Lake whose crystalin waters would delight any body else but Swissers. They are all here, Swinglians; and when Mareshal D'Estrée the French Ambassador to Rome, passed that way, and lodged at the great Jnn of the Sword, as he was combing his head one morning in his combing cloth, with his chamber window open, some of the town's men, who saw him (from an other opposite window) putting on that combeing cloth, and thinking it had been a Priest putting on the Amice and vesting himself for to say Mass before the Ambassador in his chamber, began with a Dutch clamour to stir up the people to a mutiny about the Ambassador's house, and to call for the Priest, that was saying of Mass: The Ambassador at first, not understanding the cause of this uproar about his house, ran down with sword in hand, and in his combeing cloth, to check the first man that should dare to enter his lodgings: but understanding at last, that his combing cloth had caused this jealousy, he laughed at their folly, and retired away contented. The best things to be seen in Zuric are these. 1. The neat Arsenal furnished with store of fair Cannons and arms of all sorts. 2. The great Library, but in this much less esteemed by me, because a woman had the Key of it, and let us in to see it. This piece of false Latin at the entrance, disgusted me with all that I saw there, and made me hasten out quickly: Good Libraries should not fall en quenoüille. 3. The Wheels which draw up water from the Lake of themselves, and empty it into several Pipes, & so convey it all over the town. 4. The public great drinking hall, where there are a world of little tables for men of several corporations or trayds to meet at, and either talk there of their business, or make drinking their business. Over every table hangs the sign of each trad, as a Last for shoemakers, a saddle for saddlers, a sword for cutlers etc. There is a great Bell that rings to this meeting place every day at two a clock, and when I heard so solemn a ringing, I thought it had been to some Church devotion, not to a drinking assembly. From Zuric I went by water, that is, upon the lake a whole day's journey, A long Bridge. and passed under a bridge of wood which crosseth quite over the lake for two miles. It's entertained at the cost of the King of Spain, to pass the soldiers which he often raiseth in the adjacent countries. From hence I went to Coire, Coire. or Cear, the head town of the Grisons. The Bishop and the Clergy of the great Church, with some few others living within the precincts of the Cloister of the great Church, are Catholics, and perform their devotions in the Church without control: the rest of the inhabitants are Swinglians, and possess the town; yet they suffer the Bishop, and his Clergy to live quietly in the midst of them. They showed me here in this Church, divers fine Relics, especially the Head (enchased in silver) of our ancient Briton King Lucius, S. Lucius the first Christian King. the first Christian king that ever made profession of Christian. Religion, and the first who helped to plant it here. The ancient Church office here relates all this, as their Church books showed me. From the Grisons I went to the Country of the Valtaline; The Valtaline. a country subject to the Grisons and keeping its fidelity to them even when it would not have wanted assistance from Spain and Italy, if it would have been false to its Superiors the Grisons under the colour of Religion: those of the Valtaline being all Catholics, and their sowerains the Grisons Caluinists. In a little town of the Grisons (called Herberga) I was showed a cheese (and given to taste of it too) by mine host, the Mayor of the town, a Caluinist in Religion, and a Venerable old man, who assured me seriously, that that cheese was a hundred years old▪ a Venerable Cheese indeed! and well nigh as old as his Religion. Mount Berlin. Between these two countries of the Grisons and the Valtaline, stands the great Hill Berlino: over which I passed; and fell from thence upon Posciavo a little bourg, and so to our Ladies of Tirano a neat Church with a fair Inn hard by it. Le Splug. Others, to avoid the snow of Berlino, are forced now and then (as I was once) to pass over the mountain Splug, which is hill enough for any traveler. Mount Aurigo. From our Ladies of Tirano I went up a smart hill called Mount Aurigo, and so making towards the Lake of Wallinstade, The Lakes of wallinstade, & Jsee. I passed it over in boat; as I did also soon after, that of Isee; and so fell into the territories of Brescia in Italy belonging to the state of Venice. My fourth Voyage. MY fourth voyage into Italy was from Lions again and Geneva, S. Maurice. where I now took the Lake on my left hand, and passing along the skirts of Savoye, I came to Boveretta, a little Village, and so to S. Maurice the first town in the Valetians country, This town is so called from S. Maurice the Brave Commander of the Theban Legion, in the primitive times, and who was martyred here for the profession of Christian Religion together with his whole Legion. Hence an Abbey was built here by Sigismond King of Burgundy, and called S. Maurice. Now, this country is called the country of the Valesians, The Valesians. from the perpetual Valley in which it lieth. The people have for their Prince the Bishop of Zion the chief town of the country. Their Valley is above four day's journey long, besides their hills which are two more: Most of their little towns and Villages stand upon hill sides, leaving all the plain country for tillage and pasturage. Their houses are low and dark, many of them having no windows, and the rest very little ones. Sed casa pugnaces Curios angusta tegebat. As for the people here, they are all Catholics, sincere honest men, of stout courage, yet of innocent lives, much snow quenching their lust, and high mountains staveing of from them all luxe and Vanity, the harbingers of Vice. They have short hair on their heads, but beards in folio. They are got so far into the grande mode, as to wear breeches and doublets; but that's all: for otherwise their clothes look as if they had been made by the Tailors of the old Patriarcks; or as if the fashion of them had been taken out of old hangings and tapestry. In fine, both men and women here are great and massive, and not easily to be blown away: so that I may justly say of this people, as Cardinal Bentivoglio said of the Swissers, that they are good for the Alps, and the Alps for them. One thing I observed particularly in this windy country, which is, that they have many natural fools here, which makes me think it no vulgar error, which is commonly said, that the climates that are most agitated with winds produce more fools, than other climates do. As for their strength, Their Strength. upon a defensive occasion, they can assemble forty thousand men together under their known Commanders, who are often times the Innkeepers in whose houses we lodge; but out of their own pit they are not to be feared, having neither spirits, nor sinews: that is, neither ambition, nor money, to carry on a foreign war. From S. Maurice I went to Martigni a great Inn in a poor Village, Martigni and from thence to Zion. Zion. Zion (anciently Sedunum,) is the chief town of the country, and stands in the centre of it. Here the Bishop, who is Prince, resideth with his Chapter and Cathedral on one hill, and his Castle stands on another hill hard by. The Court of this Prince is not great, because of his, and his people's quality. A good Bishop hath something else to do, then to be courted, The best Guards of a Prince. and good plain people must follow their trads, not Courts. This Prince hath no Guards, because no fears: and if danger should threaten him, his people, whose love is his only Arsenal, Plus tutatur Amor have hands enough to defend him. So that the Prince and People, that is▪ the Body Politic of this state, seemed to me like the Body natural in man, where the soul and the body being friends together, the soul directs the body, and the body defends the Soul. Lucia. From Zion I went to Lucia, but lodged a quarter of a mile from the town; and from thence I reached Briga at night. Briga. Briga is a little Village standing at the foot of great hills; where having rested well all night, at the Colonel's house (the best Inn here) we began the next morning to climb the hills for a breakfast. For the space of three hovers our horses eased us, the ascent not being so surly as we expected from so rugged a brow of hills: but when we came to the steep of the hill itself Mount Sampion, Mount Sampion. (one of the great Staircases of Italy) we were forced to compliment our horses, and go a foot. It was towards the very beginning of October when we passed that way, and therefore found that Hill in a good humour; otherwise it's froward enough. Having in one hours' time crawled up the steep of the Hill, we had two hours more riding to the Village and Inn of Sampion: where arriveing, we found little meat for our great stomaches, and cold comfort for all the hot stinking Stone. At last having paid for a dinner here, though we saw nothing we could eat, we were the lighter in purse, as well as in body, to walk well that afternoon, rather than that afterdinner. To describe you the rough way we had between Sampion and Devedra, down hill always, or fetching about hills upon a narrow way artificially made out of the side of those hills, and sometimes sticking out of them, as if it had been plastered to them, were able to make my pen ache in writing it, as well as my legs in walkeing it. And here I found the Proverb false which saith, that its good walking with a horse in ones hand: for here we could neither ride, nor lead our horses securely, but either the one, or the other were in danger of stumbling, that is, of falling five hundred fathom deep. For here, as well as in war, semel tantum peccatur, a man need but stumble once for all his life-time: Yet by letting our horses go loose with the bridle on their necks, and making a man go before each horse, lest they should jumble one another down (as I once saw the like done by horses in Switzerland) we arrived safely at Devedra that night. Devedra. You would do well also to light from horse at the going over all the little trembling Bridges of wood which you will find there, remembering the Italian Proverb, which saith: Quando tu Vedi un Ponte, falli piu honore che in non fai a un Conte. Having reposed all night in the house of the Signior Castellano, Domodoscela. we went the next morning to Domodoscela a little garrison town of the state of Milan, troublesome enough to travellers that pass from Milan this way, and carry pistols and guns without licence. From Domodescela we passed through a fine plain country to Marguzzi, Marguzzi. Lake Maior. a little Village standing upon the Lake Maior (anciently called Lacus Verbanus) where making our bargain with our boat-men ro carry us in one day from thence to Sesto, & keep aloof of from the command of all the Castles, which now and then warn boats to come in; and under pretence of searching them for merchandise, stop passengers till they have screwed a piece of money out of them. S●sto. Arriveing saif at Sesto that night we took Coach the next day for Milan, and dineing at Civita Castellanza, Civita Castellanza. arrived be times at that great town which was called anciently Altera Roma: a second Rome. My fifth Voyage. MY fifth voyage into Italy was still from Lions, but now by the way of Mount Cenis, and Turin, the ordinary Post road, and I think the easiest way of all the rest. Parting then from Lions on horseback, we passed through Verpillier, La Tour du Pin, Beaunoysin (whose bridge parts France, and Savoy) and came in two days to the foot of Mount Aiguebellet, the threshold of the Alps: This is a pretty breathing hill, Mount Aiguebellet. and may be called, the Alps foul over, or the Alps in a running hand and not in that fair Text hand which I found Mount Cenis to be in. It hath all the lineaments and shapes of the great Alps, that is, much winding and turning; deep precipices, Marons, or, men with little open chairs, to carry you up and down the hill for a crown; and much stumbling work. In fine this hill ressembles Mount Cenis, as a proper man may do a Giant. Having passed this Hill, and by it through the very clouds, we fell as it were out of the skies, upon Chambery the chief town of Savoy, Chambery. and where the Parliament resides, We cast to be there at the solemn Entry, which this Duke made for his new Spouse the third daughter of the late Duke of Orleans, The Entry of the Duchess of Savoy. when she came first into this country. To describe all the Triumphal Arches in the Streets, with their Emblems and mottoes rarely painted; the stately Throne a little out of the town, where the Duke and Duchess received the compliments of their subjects; the rich liveries of the young townsmen on horseback; the gallantery of the Noblemen and gentlemen of the country (800 in all) their horses at fine as they; the Parliament men, and other officers of justice all in black velvet gowns; the Clergy and Religious marching in the mean time humbly a foot and in procession; the Duke's two companies of horse in velvet coats of crimson colour embroidered with gold and silver; The Pages and footmen of the Duke and Duchess in crimson Velvet laid thick with gold and silver lace; in fine, the Duke and Duchess on horseback as brillant as the sun, would fill a book alone, which I have no mind to do, seeing there is one extant already in a just volume. Leaving then Chambery the next day after the Show, Montmelian. we went to Montmelian to dinner. This is a strong Castle upon a high rock, overlooking the river Isere, Isere. and commanding the passage here which is strait between the hills. The strength of this Castle appeared when it withstood the Royal army of Lewis the XIII of France for fifteen months, and made him raise the Siege when he had done. Here is still a strong garrison in it, and store of ammunition, and all things necessary for the defence of a strong place. They showed us in it their deep well for fresh water in the midst of a high rock; their excellent pieces of Artillery, one whereof is said to carry four miles, that is, to Fort Barreau a little Fort belonging to France, which is two leagues from hence, and which you see from this Castle. From Montmelian we had rough way to Aiguebelle; Aiguebelle S. so thence to S. john Morian, S. john Morian. to S. Michael, and at last to Lasnebourg, which stands at the foot of Mount Cenis the highest of all the hills I passed over in my several voyages into Italy, Lasnebourg. or out of it; to wit, Sampion, Berlin, Splug, and S. Godarde. This Hill of Mount Cenis parting Savoy and Italy, shall be the place where I will now begin my Description of Italy, having hitherto only described the several ways into it. The description and Voyage of Italy. Mount Cenis. ARRIVEING then, as I said before, at the foot of Mount Cenis, anciently called Cinisium; and resting all night at Lasnebourg we agreed with the Marons, to carry us up the hill, and down the Hill, as also ever the plain, and in fine, all the way to Novalese itself. All this is to be expressed in your bargain with then, otherwise they will cavil with you, and make you go over the plain a foot. The price is, a Spanish pistol for every man that's carried. Those that are strong and vigorous, ride up upon mules, and walk down a foot. We began to mount at our going out of our Inn at Lasnebourg, and having passed by La Ramassa (where men are posted down the Hill upon the snow in sledges with great celerity and pleasure) after two hours tugging of our chairmen, or Marons, we came to the top of the hill, and a little after to the Posthouse, and the little Hospital upon the plain: Thence passing by the Chapel, of the Transis (that is, of those who are found dead of cold in the snow, and are buried here) we came to the great Cross and Tavern, where we began to descend. This Hill of Mount Cenis is four miles in the going up, four miles upon the plain, and two in its descent to Novalese. Arriving about noon at Novalese, Novalese. we dined, horsed, and went that night to Susa. Susa, anciently Segesium, is a strong town, and one of the gates of Italy. For this reason, Suza. the French in their late long war with Spain, kept it a long time in their hands, as well as Pignorola, which they still keep upon treaty, to let them into Italy, when they have a mind. It's strength consists wholly in a Castle built upon a high rock close to the town, and commanding all the passage betwixt the two mountains. Le pas de Suse. This town is famous in the latter history, for the smart action of the French, when they beat down the twelve several Barriers, whereby the Duke of Savoy thought to have choked their passage. Piedmont This ●action is famous in history, by the name of le Pas de Suze. S. Ambrosio. Here at Susa begins Piedmont. From Susa we went to S. Ambrosio, & passed by Rivolle a fine house of the Dukes, Rivolle. standing in good air, and at night we came to Turin. Turin. Turin, anciently called Augusta Taurinorum, is situated in a plain near the foot of the hills and upon the banks of the river Po, The River Po. which begins here to be navigable, and from hence carries boats to Ferrara, Chiosa and Venice. This Po is a noble river, and very large in some places, Petrus a S. Romualdo Cron. to. 1 especially a little below Ferrara; yet I have read that in a great drought which happened in the year of the world 2470 it was dried up and rendered innavigable. The Duke of Savoys titles, and greatness. This Turin is the Seat of one of the greatest Princes in Italy, the Duke of Savoy, and Prince of Piedmont, who is also treated with the title of Altezza Real, and Vicario Generale del Imperio in Italia. This house of Savoy which now governs here, came anciently from Siguardo King of Saxony, in the year of Christ 636, and hath conserved itself ever since, that is, for a thousand and odd years in a continual series of heroical Princes, whose Pedigree was never vitiated nor interrupted by any degenerate offspring. Five Emperors, and four Kings have issued out of this house. Anciently the Dukes of Savoy kept their Court at Chambery, or else at Bourg en Bresse, a country now belonging to France, upon exchange with the Marquisat of Saluzzo; as many of their tombs curiously cut in marble in the Augustins' Church there yet show. It was Amadeo the Vof that name, Duke of Savoy, that transferred the Court to Turin. It was also this Amadeo who in memory of his Granfather Amadeo the IV, who had defended Rhodes so bravely, instituted the kinghthood of the Annunciata, with this single motto in the collar of the order F. E. R. T. signifying, that Fortitudo Eius Rhodum Tenuit. His Subjects. The subjects of this Prince are said to be about eighteen hundred thousand souls. His whole country with Piedmont and all, His country's extent. is judged to be two hundred miles long, and fifty broad. His forces thirty three thousand foot, His forces and five thousand horse: and his Revenues to be about a million of crowns, Revenues. besides what he can now and then raise out of that fat country of Piedmont. His Jnterest is, His interest. to keep well with France, and not fall out with Spain. As for the town itself of Turin, it's almost squar, and hath four gates in it; The town of Turin. a strong Citadel with five bastions to it; it's well furnished with good provisions in the market; it stands in a fat soil, which makes it a little too dirty in winter, and it is an university. The things to be seen in Turin. The chief things which I saw here, were these. The Holy Syndon. 1. The Domo, or Great Church, in which is kept with great devotion the Holy Syndon, in which our Saviour's body was wound up and buried: of the Verity of this Relic see Baronius in his Ecclesiastical History add an. 34 num. 138. It's kept in a Chapel over the High Altar and shown publicly upon certain days, and privately To Ambassadors and Prelates, as they pass that way. The late Duchess Madam Christina, began to make a fine Chapel for to keep it in, but is was not quite finished when I passed that way last. The Chapel is all of black marble adorned with stately black marble pillars: indeed winding sheets (such as this Relic is) are things of mourning, and are best set out in a mourning way. 2. The Cittadelle standing at the back of the town, The Citadelle. and keeping it in awe. This Duke and his mother found the convenience of this Cittadelle, when by factions within the town against them, they were forceed to this Cittadelle, and there weather it out stoutly, till succour coming to them from France, made them masters again of the town, and their enemies. 3. The Duke's new Palace handsomely bu●lt with a fair Court before it, The Palace. a great Piazza, and a large open street leading up to it. The Chambers are fair, and hung with hangings of cloth of tissue of a new and rich fabrik, with rich embroidered beds, chairs, stools, cloth of State, and Canopies. The Duchess' Cabinet, the curious bathing place above, hund round with the true pictures in little of the prime Ladies of Europe: The bathing place. The curious invention for the Duchess to convey herself up from her bedchamber to that bathing room, by a pulley and a swing, with great ease and saifty: the great Hall painted curiously: the Noble staircase: the old long Gallery 100 paces long, The old Gallery. with the Pictures in it of the Princes and Princesses of the house of Savoy, with the Statues of the ancient Emperors and Philosophers in marble, with a rare Library locked up in great cupboards, are the chief rooms and ornaments of this Palace. I saw also the Appartiments or lodgings of the old Duchess Madam Christina, which join to the old Gallery, and in her Cabinet I saw many choice pictures. 4. The new street, The new street. which runeth from the Palace to the Piazza Real, is a fair street and built uniformly. The shops below afford great conveniency to the town's men, and the fair lodgings above to the noblemen and Courtiers. 5. The Piazza Real. The Piazza Real is built handsomely upon Pillars, like our Covent Garden, and is full of nothing else but nobleman's houses. 6. The Augustins' Church. The Augustins' Church called S. Carlo, standing in this piazza, adorns it much, being a neat Church and the best contrived that I saw in this town. 7. The Capucins Church. The Capucins Church upon a hill out of the town, is above the rate of Capucins: but you must know who gave it, not who have it. From hence I had a perfect view of Turin with the country about it. 8. La Venery royal. Some three miles out of the town I saw a neat house of the Dukes, called Lafoy Venery royal. The Court set round with stags' heads; the chambers full of good Pictures; the Hall painted with great Pictures of the Duke, his mother, his sisters, and other Ladies all on horseback as if they were going a hunting; the place where they keep pheasants, partridges, and other such like birds, the stable for 100 horse, and the neat dogkennel, are the best things to be seen in this house. La Valentine. 9 On the other side of the town, about a mile of, I saw the old Duchess' house called La Valentine. It stands pleasantly upon the banks of Po, and is adorned with great variety of pictures. In five or six rooms, on the right hand of the house, they showed me a world of pictures of all sorts of Flowers: on the left hand, as many of all sorts of birds, with other pictures curiously painted. The four pictures representing the four Elements, with all that belongs to them, as all the birds that fly in the air; all the beasts that are found upon the Earth; all the fishes and shells that are found in the water; and all things that belong to fire, are so curiously painted in their several particular shaps & colours, that these four pieces are and abridgement of all nature, and the admiration of all that behold them. There are some other good pieces here too; as the Magdalen fallen into an ecstasy: the rapt of the Sabins; and divers others. The others houses about the town, as Millefleur belonging to the Duke; the Villa of the Princess Marie; with divers others which show themselves upon the Hill side, are very stately, and worth seeing. Having thus seen Turin, From Turin to Genua. we left the ordinary road, which leads to Milan (to wit, by the way of Vercelle and Novara, two strong towns frontier to one another, through which I passed in another voyage) and to avoid two armies which lay in the way, chose to steer towards Genua by the low way of Savona. And passing through a melancholy country by Altar and other little towns for the pace of three days, we came at last to Savona. Savona. Savona (anciently called Sabatia, or Sabatium) is the second town, or eldest daughter of Genua; and like a good daughter indeed she stands always in her mother's presence, yet keeps her distance: it being within sight of Genua, yet five and twenty mills off. It stands upon the Mediterranean Sea, or, as they call it here, upon the Riviera di Genoa. It's fortified both by art and nature, that is, by regular Fortifications towards the Sea, and by lusty Apennin hills towards the Land. Yet whiles Savona feared no danger from either Sea, or Land, it was almost ruined in the year 1648. by fire from heaven, to wit, ligthning; which falling vpon a great Tower, in the midst of the town, where gunpowder was kept, blew it up upon a sudden, and with it, threw down two hundred houses round about it, and houses of note. For passing that way six months after, and walking among the ruins, I saw in many of the houses, which were but half fallen down, curious painted chambers and fine guilt roofs, which showed me of what house many of these houses had been; and of what weak defence guilt roofs and painted walls are against the artillery of heaven thunder and lightning. This town is famous in history for the interview of two great kings here, to wit, Lewis the XII of France, and Ferdinand King of Naples. This interview passed with demonstrations of mutual civilityes, not ordinary in interviews of Princes. For Lewis feared not to go into the Galleys and ships of Ferdinand without guards and unarmed: and Ferdinand remained for many days together in this town belonging the● to Lewis, whom he had lately stipt of the kingdom of Naples, and beaten him to boot in a battle. Of this town were julius Secundus, and Sixtus Quartus, two Popes of the house of Roveri: and two great Cardinals, Peter, and Raphael Riarii. Embarking at Savona in a Feluca we rowed along the Shore (called la Riviere di Genoa) unto Genua itself; and all the way long we saw such a continual suburbs of stately Villas and Villages, that these scantlings made us in love which the whole piece itself, Genua. La Riviera di Genua. I confess, I never sew a more stately aboard to any City then to this: and if we had not had Genua full in our sight all the way long, we should have taken some of these stately Villages for Genua itself; and have imitated Hostingus the leader of the Normans, who coming into Italy about the year 860 with a great army, and finding Luna (a town in the confines of Genua) so sumptuously built, thought really it had been Rome, and there upon takeing it, Dreido a S. Quintino lib. 1. de morib. & Act. Norman. he gloryed that he had sacked the mistress of the world; Gratatur tenere se Monarchiam totius Imperii, per urbem quam putabat Roman●, saith his Historian. Sailing thus along this pleasant coast, we came betimes to Genua. Genua. Genua is one of the chief towns that stand upon the Mediterranean Sea, and one of the best in Italy. The common Italian Proverb, calls it, Genua la Superba: and if ever I saw a town with its holy day clothes always on, it was Genua. It stands upon the side of a hill, and rising by degrees, appears to those that look upon it from the Sea, like an Amphitheatre. Heretofore it was only fortified by marble bulwarks, The walls that is, great hills of marble which backed it up: but some forty years ago, it was environed, with new-walls, carrying six miles in compass, and yet finished in eighteen months. The Haven heretofore was very unsafe, and many ships which had tuggd through the most dangerous Seas abroad, were seen to sink here in the haven at home; The Hawen. the French then masters of Genua, not suffering her to shut up her haven, lest she should shut them out. But since she hath shaked off the French yoke, she hath looked up her Treasures, and bolted the door on the inside, by that admirable Mola which crossing almost quite over the bay, or, haven, doth not only bolt out all enemies, but even locks up the boisterous Sea itself, and makes it tame in the haven. It's a prodigious work, and able to have puzzled any two Kings in Europe to have done it. The Pharos. At one end of this Mola stands the Pharos upon a little rock, with a Lantern upon it, to give notice, by known signs, what ships, how many, and from what side they Come: or else to guide their own ships home safely in the night. At first it was only a little Fort for to help to bridle Genua, and it was built by Lewis the XII of France. As for the town itself of Genua, its most beautiful to behold: The City itself. many of the houses being painted on the outside, and looking as if they were turned inside out, and had their Arras hangings hung on their outsides. The tops of their houses are made with open galleries, where the women sit together at work in clusters, and where also they dry their hair in the Sun after they have washed it in a certain wash a purpose for to make it Yellow, a colour much affected here by all women. The streets are very narrow: The streets so that they use here few coaches, but many Sedans and Litters. This makes the noise in the streets less, and the expense in the purse smaller. But for want of ground and earth, they make heaven pay for it; taking it out in the height of their houses what they want in breadth or length. So that Genua looked in my eye like a proad young Lady in a strait bodied flowered gown, which makes her look tall indeed and fine, but hinders her from being at her ease, and takeing breath freely. Yet I must except the Strada Nova here, which for a spirit, Strada Nova. surpasseth all the streets I ever saw any where else for neatness and proportion; and if it had but breath enough to hold out at the same rate, a little longer, it would be the true Queen-street of Europe: Ordinary houses are so out of countenance here, that they dare not appear in this street where there's nothing but Palaces, and Palaces as fine as art, and cost; or as Marble, and Painting can make them. Having said thus much of Genua in general, I will now come to the particulars that are to be seen in it. The Domo. 1. The Domo, or great Church of S. Laurence presents itself to my sigh: It's the Cathedral of the Archbishop, who, when I passed that way last, was Cardinal Durazzo, a man of great Virtue and Piety. This Church is of a noble structure, all of black and white marble intermingled, and all massive squair stones. In a Chapel over against the Pulpit, is kept reverently an authentic Relic of S. john Baptist, under the Altar; and the great Dish of one Emmeraud, in which they say here that our Saviour eat the Paschal Lamb with his disciples. Both these where given to the Genuesis by Balduin King of Jerusalem, for their great service done against the Turks in the Holy Land. Baron. ad an. 1101. n. 13. Of the Relic of S. john Baptist, Baronius, speaks credibly in his Ecclesiastical History▪ but for the dish of Emmeraud, I find no authority for it, either in Baronius or any ancient author, that our Saviour used it. Especially seeing Venerable Beda writes, Beda l. d● loc. sanct. c. 2. that the Dish in which our Saviour eat the Paschal Lamb was of silver. 2 After the Domo, I saw the Church of the Annunciata, The Annunciata. which draweth up the Ladder after it for neatness. It's still in building, and not quite finished. Gli Signori Lomelini. It's thus beautified at the cost of two Brothers Rich Gentlemen and merchands of this town who allow the third part of their gains to the adorning of this Church. The roof of it is all guilt, and set with curious pictures in Platfound. The Altars round about the Church, are cheeked with exquisite pillars, and adorned with rare pictures. The two rows of Vast Pillars, which hold up the roof of the Church, are so beautiful, being of a red and white marble, that they look like jasper, and ravish the beholder: They are curiously wrought and chanelled. S. Am●●sio. 3. The Church of S. Ambrosio, belonging to the Jesuits is neatly overcrusted with marble and guilt above in the roof. It wants a little length, for want of room to build on: it being too near the Dogs' palace, and not daring to advance a step further for fear of treading upon his heels. S. Cyro. 4. The Church of the Theatins called S. Cyro, is very handsome, with its double row of white marble pillars, which set it out very gracefully. The Cloister also is very neat, and the Fathers very civil. The Palaces. 5. The Palaces here are most sumptuous. Those of the Strada Nova are the best, and the best of those, is that of the Prince d'Oria: it's built upon white round marble pillars, which support its Galleries, and those galleries let you into noble rooms adorned with all the Abellimenti of Italian Palaces. The other Palaces too, in this street, deserve particular mention in this my description of Genua, and may take it ill I say nothing of them; but they must excuse my brevity, and impute the fault partly to themselves; seeing admirable things are liable to this inconvenience, that they are also unexpressable. 6. I saw also the two Palaces of the Signori Balbi, The Palaces of Signori Balbi. in the Street of the Annunciata. In the one whereof (on the left hand) I saw, among other rich things, a Looking Glass valued at threescore thousand crowns. It's much of the size of those Looking glasses, which Seneca calls, specula toti corpori paria, that is, as big, and brickle, as those that look themselves in them. The frame of it is all of silver, set thick with a thousand little armed figures, like Cupid's: as if the plain Mirror of this Looking Glass were the plain field where Cupid pitcheth his Tents, and begins his conquests over fair Ladies. The round pillars set in the porch of this house, and the Givochi d'acqua in the garden, will make themselves be taken notice of. 7. The Palace of the Doge, The Dogs' Palace. or biennial Prince here, with the Several Chambers of justice, and the Armoury in it for thirty thousand men aught to be carefully seen. The Armoury. In one of the great Halls of this Palace, are seen twelve Statues of white marble, representing twelve famous men of this town, who had rendered great service to the Commonwealth. In the foresaid Armoury you see a halberd with two pistol barrels in the lower end of it. You see also the Armour of the Genuesian Amazons, who went to the war in the Holy Land, and carried themselves gallantly. Here's also a cannon of Leather so light, that a man may carry it. 8. But that which is the most taking in Genua, is that which is out of Genua; I mean, the stately Suburbs of San Pietro in Arena, San Pietro in Arena. where for a mile together, Villas adorned with marbles, painting, statues, Gardens, Arbours of Gelsomin, Orange, and Limon trees, grotts, ponds, Givochi d'acqua, fountains, high wales, with shades borne up by Marble Pillars etc. compose of many palaces and gardens, such a beautiful Landscape, that the whole place seemed to me, to be the charming Paradise of the King of the Mountains anciently; and I was almost going to say, that we durst not bless ourselves, lest this enchanted place should have Vanished. The best Villas, or Palaces here, are those of Hieronymo Negro, and that of the Imperiali: the first beautified with all the graces of Italian furniture, as also with Gardens, Walks, Ponds, Water works, Allees &c: the other, besides all these, hath an excellent Prospect: for the master of this house can see out of one window of it, twelve thousand crowns a year of his own, only in let houses. The other Palaces here expect I should say something of them, and they deserve it well; but realy to give them their full due, I can only say this of them, that they aught to be seen by the eye, not described by the pen. 9 The Villa of the Duke d'Oria. As you return from San Pietro in Arena to the town not far from the Gates, stands the Villa, or Palace of the Duke d'Oria. I reserved this for the last, pour fair bonne bouche. It stands upon the Seaside, and its garden towards the Sea is built upon three rows of white marble Rayls borne up by white marble pillars, which ascending by degrees, is so beautiful to behold from the Sea, that strangers passing that way to Genua, take this garden for a second Paradise. In the midst of it stands the rare Fountain of Neptune, representing the true looks of Brave Andrea D'Oria the Neptune of the Ligurian Sea, and the man who put his country out of Livery, and taught it, not to serve. All along one side of this Garden, stands a Cage of Iron, about a hundred paces long; and so high that it fetcheth in a world of laurel & other trees, clad with chirping birds of several sorts; and to make the poor birds believe that they are rather in a wood, then in a prison, the very Cage hath put even the wood itself in prison. Then entering into the Palace, we found it most curiously adorned with rarities, and riches, suitable to the countries' humour, and the master's purse. It's true, when this Queen of Spain passed from Germany into Spain, by the way of Milan and Genua, the Governor of Milan told her, that she should see in d'Orias palace here, many fine things, but all borrowed of the townsmen. Which d'Oria hearing of before hand, caused to be written over the great Gates of the Palace, where the Queen was to enter and lodge, these words in Spanish, By the grace of God, and the King's favour, there's nothing here borrowed. It may be, the cunning Governor of Milan thought by telling the Queen this, to oblige the Duke D'Oria to present some of his best things to the Queen, to show her that they were his own; as it's said, the late Duke of Buckingham did in France, by breaking his diamond hatband among the Court Ladies, who said he had only borrowed it; but the wise Italian by this trick, both kept his own, and yet satisfied the Queen. Indeed he hath things here both too good to be given away, and too great to be carried away: witness those rare Silver tables which are in his wardrobe, one whereof weigheth twenty-four thousand pound weight. From the Palace we were led over the street to his great garden upon the hillside, where all the graces that can make up a garden, are found. As for the Government, fashions, Wealth, strength, and Interest of Genua, I found them to be thus. Their Government, is Democratical, or Popular, by a Dog● (chosen every two years) and eight Senators, The Government. who live with him in the Palace, and assist him with their counsel. The great Counsel here, which is the foundation of the Government, consists of four hundred men chosen indifferently out of all the families of the town. These deliberate with the Signoria of all things that belong to war or peace. Anciently, as I hinted before, Genua was under the French domination, till Andrea D'Oria set it free. Histories write of it that Berengarius the third, and the Saracens, so ruined Genua, that they left it swimming in its own blood: Which ruin was forewarned by a prodigy of a fountain of blood which ran in the very streets of Genua. It had like to have swmme a second time in its blood, when Lewis the XII of France entering into Genua victoriously with sword in hand, threatening the utter ruin of that people; was pacified by the mournful cries of four thousand little Children, who clad in sackcloth and placed in the great Piazza cried out to the King in a piercing accent, Misericordia e Pieta, Mercy and Pity. But since Genua shook off the French Yoke it hath lived perpetually Jealous of the French, especially since it discovered, some years past, divers attempts of France against it, whiles the French had Portolongone and Piombino. For this reason, the Genuesi lean much to the Spanish Faction; and Fashions following Faction, Their Fashions. they lean also much to the Spanish Fashion both in humour and apparel. Hence I found here broad hats without hatbands, broad leather girdles with steel buckles, narrow breeches with long wasted doublets and hanging sleeves, to be à la mode, as well as in Madrid. And I found all the great Ladies here to go like the Donnas of Spain in Guardinfantas, that is, in horrible overgrown Vertigals of whale-bone, which being put about the waste of the Lady, and full as broad on both sides, as she can reach with her hands, bear out her coats in such a huffing manner, that she appears to be as broad as long. So that the men here with their little close breeches, looked like tumblers that leap through the houps: and the women like those that danced anciently the Hobby-horse in country Mummings. Two of these Ladies meeting one another in these narrow streets, make as great an Embarras, as two carts of hay do upon London bridge: and I have seen their Ladyships strangely puzzled, how to juggle themselves into a narrow Sedan, or Littar: indeed half of my Lady hangs out. For my part I admire that this jealous Republic doth not fear, lest some of these Ladies (upon a disgust) should carry a set of little short guns under her coats, and under pretence of preferring a petition to the Senate assembled, give them a broad side or two, and make a horrible confusion in the Republic. If all this bulk of clothes, which make the women here look like haycocks with arms and heads, be allowed them by their wise husbands, to render them more visible, and less able to go privately into any suspected houses, its good policy: otherwise, most certain it is, that the wife's gowns cheat horribly the Husband's breeches, of almost all the stuff. Guardinfanta signifies a Child-preseruer I have only heard (and it was from a Nobleman of Genua) of one Lady here that made right use of these Guardinfantas; and it was she, who seeing her only sonn (a young nobleman of Genua about eighteen years old) already condemned to prison, and ready to be condemned to the scaffold for a heinous crime, got leave to visit him in prison as often as she pleased; and at last, by means of a good Guardinfanta of steel, instead of whale-bone, she took up her son under her coats in that Guardinfanta, and marching out of the prison gravely, as she used to do, by leaning upon two ancient women, as the Fashion is here for great Ladies to do, she carried him home so; and being there delivered of him a second time, without a midwife, she sent him presently out of the country to be nursed and kept. Thus she saved her family's honour. Was not this a true Guardinfanta, which preserved thus the life of a child? But was not this also a gallant mother that went with a child who was full eighteen years old when his mother bore him? The only pity was, that this gallant mother had not the happiness once to be mother of a gallant son, seeing she had had the trouble of bringing forth such a son twice. Their Riches. As for their Riches, I am told they pass not a million and two hundred thousand crowns a year. Indeed the King of Spain Philip the TWO above a hundred years ago, borrowed of this Republic the sum of eleven millions, and keeps them still in his hands, to keep this Republic in awe; yet paying the interest duly unto them. So that the Common purse here is nothing so rich as that of Venice, though the particular men here are far richer than those of Venice. They have great trading both with France and Spain, and are great Banquiers making the Change, in all the banks of Europe go as they please. Besides, they utter a world of Taffetas, Velvets, Satins, Points of needle work and divers other things of Value. As for their Strength, Their Strength. it's enough to defend themselves, scarce enough to offend others. For Genua is backed up by the Apennins, where all passages are easily made good against invaders; and it is so well fortified on the other side by the Sea itself, twelve or fourteen good Galleys, twenty ships of war, and its incomparable Molo, that they could scuffle notably in their own defence. Besides, Genua is fortified not only with its Hills and Sea, but also with its new walls and bulwarks of stone; nay, and with its Bonewalls too, that is, with a Lacedaemonian wall of a world of inhabitants, and with the Illustrious Families of d'Oria, Spinola, Grimaldi Sauli, Durazzi, Catanei, and others, whose several names would go almost for several armies. Yet for a need, they can raise thirty thousand men, and arm them well out of their Arsenal. I confess heretofore they were strong enough to offend others; For they made war against the Pisani, and worsted them: They set also upon the Island of Corsica, distant from Genua about a hundred miles, and took it. This Island gave the Republic of Genua more honour than profit: for it being once a Kingdom, gives still to Genua the title of Serenissima, and a Close Regal Crown over its Coat of Arms. In fine, the Genuesi were strong enough heretofore, to lend great succours to Godfrey of Bullen in his holy conquest of Jerusalem. Hence upon the very Arca of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, are written these words: Praepotens Genuensium praesidium. As for their Interest, Their Interest. it seemed to me to be far more Spanish, than French, by reason of the great profit they draw from Spain, which corresponds with the rich State of Milan in men and monies, by means of the Gennesi: yet they are well with all Christian Princes, except with the Duke of Savoye who pretends to Savona. As for the Learned men of this town, Their learned men. I find them not to be so many. The rich Banker is more esteemed here, than the learned Divine. Yet I find here also some famous for learning, to wit, Baptista Fregosus, or, Fulgosus, who for his singular parts being chosen Doge of Genua, and by his own disloyal kindred chased from Government and country, comforted himself in his studdyes; and having observed many particular things in history, he reduced them to heads, and left us a just volume of Memorable sayings and Deeds of the ancients: for which work he is styled by Alberto Leandro, the Valerius Maximus of Italy. He wrote in Italian, and dedicated his book to his son. The other learned men of this town are justinianus, Balus, Mascardi, and Christopher Columbus. Genua also hath given to the Church three Popes, Adrian the V. Innocent the IV, and Innocent the VIII. The Academy of Wits. Here is an Academy of Wits called the Adormentati; which together with the other Academyes of the like nature in all the towns of Italy, I would wish my Traveller to visit particularly, that he may see how far the Jtalians excel us in passing their time well, and how it's much better to spend the week in making of Orations and Verses, then in drinking of Ale and smoking of Tobacco. Their Historian. He that desires to know more of Genua, let him read Augustinus justinianus of the History of Gewa. Having spent six days in Genua we agreed with an honest Vetturino to conduct us to Milan which is about four little days journey from hence. Monferat In another voyage I went from Genua to Turin by Monferat and saw in my way Novi (of which by and by) Trino, Cassale one of the strongest places of Italy; Cassale. having a strong Cittadelle, a strong Casile, strong towne-walls and ditches; and Alexandria della paglia a strong town standing upon the Po. Alexandria. But now at this time, leaving Genua, and intending for Milan, we rid through San Pietro d'Arena, by the Carthusians Monastery, over the Apenniu Hills, and in a day and a half, came to Novi. Novi is a little strong town belonging to the Genuesis, Novi. and Frontier to the Milanesi. It's some twelve miles distant from Tortona the first frontier town of the State of Milan: and because these Frontiers were then pestered with Bandits, a noble man of Genua, who was in our company, begged of the Governor of Novi, a Cowoy for himself and us to secure us to Tortona: The Governor presently granted us a Conuoye of eight or ten horsemen: but those very men he gave us for our Conuoye, were Bandits themselves, who being banished from the State and town of Genua for their misdemenours, had two months a year allowed them to come freely into frontier towns, and negotiate with the State. These men were thought by the Governor to be our safest guards in danger, who were the only men that caused danger. Having been thus convoyed safely by out honest rogues past all danger, we paid them some three Pistoles; and feared no more danger, till we should meet with such servants as these another time. I confess, it seemed at first à fearful thing, to see ourselves in the hands of those, who had their hands often in blood: yet there is such a charm in a Governors' parole, that we thought ourselves as well armed with it, as if we had been shot-free, and had had all the Spells of Lapland about us. Tortona. We had no sooner parted from these our guards, but passing over a little river on horseback, we entered into the Milanese, land came at night to Tortona a strong frontier town of the Milanese, where Charles the VIII of France, in his return from the conquest of Naples, beat the Venetians and the Milanesi in a battle. From Tortana we went the next day to Pavia, the second town of the state of Milan, and once the Seat of twelve Kings of the Longobards. Pavia. It stands upon the river Ticinum, and hence it's also called in Latin Ticinum. Ticinum. Here's an University, either founded or furnished at first, with readers, or by readers of the University of Oxeford. The Chief Colleges are, that of Pius Quintus, and that of S. Charles Boromaeus. The other remarkable things here, are. 1 The Domo, in which lieth buried the body of a holy Bishop of this town, called Sauli, The Domo. who was contemporary to S. Charles Borromaeus and of the same Pastoral spirit and zeal. Near the great door of this Church (on the inside) they show you a little mast of a boat which they make ignorant people believe (for sport) to have been the Lance of Orlando Furioso. The Equestris statue of Autoninus. 2 Near the Domo, in the Piazza, stands A Brazen statue, which some affirm to be the Statue of Constantin the Great; others, more probably, of Antoninus Pius. It was brought from Ravenna hither by victory; and it had like to have been carried back again to Ravenna by Victory. For Lotrech the French general in the taking of this town having granted this Statue to a soldier of Ravenna (who served under him, and who having mounted the breach first, asked nothing for his recompense, but that statue taken anciently from his native town) Yet afterwards moved with the generosity of the townsmen (who having left all things else with some patience, to the prey of the soldiers, burst into tears when they heard that this statue was to be taken from them) Lotrech changed his gift to the soldier, & left the Citizens of Pavia their dear Statue. 3. I saw the Augustins' Church, S. Augustins' body. where the body of that great Father of the Church S. Augustin lieth buried. Baron. an. 725. It was translated hither out of Sardinia by Luitprandus King of the Longobards; an arm of which S. Augustin a King of England redeemed at a great rate, Baron. an. 1027. and yet cheap too, if it where his writing arm, wherewith he wrote such admirable books. The new Tomb in the Sacristy is all of white marble most exquisitely carved with historical statues representing the most remarkable actions of that Doctor. 4 In the same Church we were shown the Tomb of Severinus Boëtius author of that great little book the Consolation Philosophica which he wrote in his exile, The tomb of Severinus Boetius. to comfort himself. He was a Consul of Rome for dignity, an other S. Denys for learning & losing his head; See Baron. an. 525. and held a Martyr by many. 5 In the Cloister of this Convent of the Augustins, lie buried two Englishmen of note, the Duke of suffolk, and an English Bishop called Parker of the house of Morley, I read their several Epitaphs upon the wall of this Cloister near the little door that goes from hence into the Church, but have forgot them since. 6 The Chapel where the Bones of the Frenchmen killed in the Battle of Pavia are kept and shown to strangers. 7 In the Franciscans Church here, lies buried Baldus the famous jurisconsult. 8 The long wooden Bridge covered over head with a perpetual penthouse, to deffend men as well from the Sun, as from the rain. Learned men. Of this town were Ennodius Ticinensis, and Lanfrancus Archbishop of Canterbury, who wrote so learnedly against Berengarius for the Real Presence. The Historians. He that desires to know the particular history of Pavia, let him read Antonio Spelta, and Sacco. From Pavia we went to Milan same twenty miles off; and in the way, saw the famous Monastery of the Carthusians, near unto which, upon S. Mathias his day (a day favourable to Charles the V, seeing he was borne on that day; The Battle of Pavia. crowned Emperor on that day; and got this Victory on that day) was fought that memorable battle between the said Emperor's forces, and the French King, an. 1525. where Francis the I. of France was taken prisoner, having lost the day, not for want of courage, but conduct: for he had a little before, sent away half of his army to the conquest of Naples; by which he so weakened the rest of his army here, that he both lost the day, See Monlukes Commentaries and did nothing against the kingdom of Naples; A great fault, observed by one that was present there, to wit, Monsieur Monluc. Francis being thus taken prisoner was presently conducted to the Carthusians Monastery, which was hard by. Entering into the Church, and finding the Monks singing in the third hour this verse of the Psalm, Coagulatum est sicut lac cor eorum, egovero legem tuam meditatus sum, he struck up with them at the next verse, and sung aloud with a piety as great, as his loss, or courage, Bonum mihi quia humiliasti me, ut discam iustificationes tuas: that is, it's well for me, that thou hast humbled me, that I may learn thy iustifications. After he had heard Mass here, he was carried to dinner in the Monastery, and was served by three Generals of the Spanish Army, Launoy, Bourbon, and the Marquis of Vasti: the one holding the basin, the second pouring water upon his hands; and the third presenting him the Towel. Some say he refused to be served by Bourbon, looking upon him as a revolted Trayter, rather than as an enemy: indeed the brave Frënch Knight Bayard (surnamed, the Chevalier sans peur who died in this battle,) being found expireing in the field, by Bourbon, who said to him, Poor Bayard! I pity thee; answered him with all the courage and life that was left him; No, Traitor, I am not to be pitied, who die nobly serving my King and country: but thou rather art to be pitied, who livest à Traitor to thy king and country. As for the King he was led prisoner into Spain, where he was kept at Madrid till he paid his ransom. Hence the Spaniards brag, that they had once a French king prisoner, and the French had never any King of Spain prisoner: but the French answer, that their King had not been prisoner had he fought as the Kings of Spain do of late, that is, by Proxy, and not in person. However this Francis the first deserved better fortune, being A Prince of great courage and honour, and a great lover of his soldiers. For not long before, he had beaten the Swissers in the battle of San Donato, where his soldiers fought for him with singular courage and zeal. And he had deserved it all: For he was so good to his soldiers in that expedition, that he would ride up and down the camp in the night, to visit the wounded soldiers, and help them to all necessaries; commanding even His own sheets to be cut in pieces to bind up their wound●. The Carthusians Monastery. As for the Monastery itself of the Charthusians, it's one of the most stately Monasteries of Italy, and I believe, the second of that Order. The great Cloister is all covered with lead. The Church is one of the handsomest of Italy, though built a la Tedesca. The Frontispiece of it is adorned with a world of heads and figures of white marble. The Chapels within are richly adorned and painted. The Tabernacle is worth fourscore thousand crowns. The tomb of their founder, john Galeazzo Visconti Duke of Milan, which stands a little without the Choir, with the cumbent statues of Ludovico Moro the last Duke of Milan and his wife, lying under the other, is a stately Monument. In the Sacristy we were shown many fine Relics, much rich Church-plate, and a curious back of an Altar of Ivory cut into histories after a rare manner. Passing from hence we came to Milan. Milan. This town is surnamed the Great; and rightly, seeing it carries full ten miles in compass within the walls. It hath ten gates to it; two hundred Churches within it, and three hundred thousand souls dwelling in it. Hence it was anciently called Alteza Roma a second Rome, The Duchy of Milan. both because of its greatness, and because of its other titles, which made it look like Rome. It's the Head of the best Duchy in Europe, which is a hundred miles long from North to South, and containeth four hundred towns in it. It's called Milan quasi Midland, being a pure Mediterranean Town, and having (which is a wonder) not so much as a river of its own running by it; but is only served by two Channels cut out of the Ticine and the Adder. This town hath heretofore suffered much by war; great towns being the fairest Marks to shoot at, and Milan hath been forty times shot at by Sieges, and twenty times Hit and taken, having had the misfortune to have been under divers factions and Rulers: as the Emperors, the Turriani, the Visconti, the Sforze, the French, and the Spaniards, who now keep it, mercè all Castello, which staveth of all tempts of strangers. France pretends to this Duchy as heir of Valentia Visconty, who was married to Lewis Duke of Orleans, whose house was excluded from this Duchy by Francis Sforza, who possessed himself of this State. As for the things which I saw in Milan, they are these. Store of Gentry. 1. The store of Gentry and Nobility here, which I perceived to be very numerous, because of a hundred coaches (no hackneys) which I saw standing before a Church upon a private Festival day of that Church. Store of Artisans 2. Great store of Artisans, as Goldsmiths, Armourers, Gunsmiths Weavers, silk stocking makers, Refiners of Gold, those that work in Crystal, and a world of others: which give occasion to the Proverb, which saith, that he that would improve all Italy, must destroy Milan first: for if Milan were destroyed, the many artisans that are there, would spread over all Italy, and furnish the other towns, which want artisans. 3. The Churches here, and first that of S. Ambrose, S. Ambrose his Church. where that glorious Father of the Church refused stoutly to Theodosius the Emperor, entrance unto that Church, S. Ambrose his Tomb. because of his passionate commanding the Massacre at Thessalonia, where seven thousand men were murdered for the fault of a few. Under the high Altar of this Church lieth the body of S. Ambrose; as also the bodies of S. Geruasius and Protasius, two primitive Saints, whose bodies were found whiles S. Austin lived at Milan, Read S. Augustin lib. 9 Conf c. 7. and who also relates a famous and known miracle to have been wrought by God, at the Translation of those holy Martyr's bodies into this Church. In this Church also is seen upon a high Pillar of a round form, a Brazen Serpent, like that erected by Moses in the Desert and commanded by God himself to be made. Numb. 21 v. 8. I imagine it was set up here for the same end, for which it was commanded by God to be set up mystically in the desert, that is, to put men in mind of our Saviour's exaltation upon the Cross for mankind, john 3.14. the frequent memory of which is a Sovereign antidote against the stings of the infernal serpent the Devil. 4. Near unto the foresaid Church of S. Ambrose, stands the little Chapel, where S. Augustin with his little Adeodatus and his friend Alippius was baptised, as the words over the Altar testify; and from this little Chapel S. Ambrose and S. Augustin (now a Christian) going processionaly to the Great Church, made the Hymn Te Deum, The Hymn Te Deum. as they went; one making one Verse, the other another. 5. The other little Chapel on the other side of S. Ambrose his Church, is built upon the place where S. Augustin was first converted by a voice which said to him, Tolle lege: Tolle lege: meaning S. Paul Epistles: which he doing, pitched just upon those words to the Romans, Non in cubilibus & impudicitiis, The place of the Conversion of S. Austin sed induimini jesum Christum etc. And so of an impure Manichean, he became a chaste Christian. 6. I saw adjoining to this Church of S. Ambrose the Stately Monastery, The Cistertians Monastery. with two curious Cloisters built upon round pillars. This Monastery, as well as S. Ambrose his Church, belongs to the Cistertian Monks. 7. S. Victor's Church. Then I saw the Church of S. Victor belonging to the Olivetan Fathers; with the admirable picture of S. George killing the Dragon, of the hand of Raphael Urbin. This is a neat Church when it is adorned in its best hangings, as it was when I saw it. The double Cloisters here of the Monastery built upon round pillars ought to be seen. 8. S. Nazario. In the Church of S. Nazarius are to be seen the Tombs of the Triwltii: stately Monuments. 9 In the Church of S. Eustorgius I saw the Arca, or old Tomb, in which reposed the bodies of the three Magis who came to adore our Saviour in Bethleem, S. Eustorgio. whose bodies were translated from hence to Colen in Germany, where I have seen them, by reason of the Destruction of Milan. 10. I saw also the Church of S. Laurence, built like that of Sanctae Sophia in Constantinople. Here lies buried Placidia the Sister of Honorius the Emperor. 11. There are divers other Churches here, all worth particular visiting, by reason of some rare thing in them: as in that of S. Mark, the rare piece of Simon Magus his fall from the skies. In that of the Passion the rare picture of the last Supper, by Christophoro Cibo. In that of S. Celso, a rare picture of Raphael's hand in the Sacristy. The Theatins, and the jesuits Churches are very neat. 12. But the best of all the Churches of Milan is the new Domo, The Domo in the midst of which lieth buried the new S. Ambrose of Milan; I mean S. Charles Borromaeus, an other S. Ambrose in Pastoral dignity, zeal, and sanctity. This Church I take to be the second in Italy for solid work; being built all of white marble, with Isles and Pillars, Each Pillar worth ten thousand crowns, & there are a hundred and threescore such Pillars in all, S. Lorenzo. of massive white marble; not candied and frozen over with a thin crust of marble, as most of the other fine Churches of Italy are. There are also six hundred white marble statues set round about the outside of this Church, each of them cost a thousand crowns. That of S. Bartholomeus with his skin upon his arm; and that of Adam, are two pieces much admired, and are of the hand of Christopher Cibo. The Frontispiece is not yet finished: but if that be the true design of it, which I have seen in pictures, in the Capucins Cloister in Rome, it will be most stately. The Church itself is said to be 250 cubits long. Near the Choir, and almost in the middle of the Church, lieth the body S. Charles Borromaeus in a low vault, turned now into a Chapel, open at the top with low rails round about it; The inside of this Chapel is hung with hangings of cloth of gold, over which runs a cornish of silver plat nailed to the wall. Upon the Altar, lieth the body of S. Charles at length in a fair Crystal coffin made of several great squars of crystal, through which (the wooden Caze being opened by special leave from the Archbishop) we saw his body lying all a long in his Episcopal robes. His face, hands, and feet, are only seen, and his nose and lips are shrunk and parched. The true picture of this Saint Hangs at the entrance below into this Chapel▪ and his history and wonderful actions are hung up in painting round about the Church on high. Over the high Altar, in the Very roof of the Church, is kept one of the Nails of the Cross of our Saviour, The Holy Nail. given anciently to the Milanesi by the Emperor Theodosius. There burn always before it a number of little Lamps, set in cross wise, and drawn up thither with a pulley, to show the people where that holy Relic is. In fine The Steeple of this Church is not to be Forgotten. It's not quite finished yet, but its high enough to tire any man, and to show him from the top of it, the whole town of Milan, the whole compass and circumference of the rare Castle; and the whole country round about for Twenty miles on every side: a sight to pleasant, that I would wish my Traveler, not only to mount up to the top of this Steeple, but (for this Steeples sake) to make it his constant practice (as I did) to mount up the chief Steeple of all great towns. 13. The Hospital. The great Hospital built in a quadrangle upon arches and round pillars is a most magnificent thing. Really if sickness where not a little unwholesome and troublesome, a man would almost wish to be a little sick here, where a King, though in health, might lodge handsomely. The place where the sick people are kept, is built crosswise, and in the middle of that cross, stands an open Altar where all the sick people from their several quarters and from their very beds, may hear the Divine service at once. Four thousand men are entertained daily in this Hospital, and therefore it hath great revenues. S. Charles was a great benefactor to it, and gave away to it, and other pious uses, in half an hour, five and twenty thousand crowns of inheritance, which were fallen to him (being a man of eminent birth) half an hour before. Indeed he had no other wife than his Church, nor other children than the poor. The Seminary. 14. The stately Seminary; and the College for the Swissers, are noble buildings, The college of the Swissers. and the Eternal works of the foresaid. S. Charles. 15. The Lazzaretto is a Vast building, carrying in compass a thousand and eight hundred yards. It stands near the town walls, yet out of the town, The Lazzaretto. and it is to receive into it Those that are sick of the plague. There are as many chambers in it, as there are days in the year. In the middle of the squar of this vast court, or quadrangle, stands a round Chapel, covered at the top, but open on all sides in such a manner, as that all the people from their several chambers and beds, may behold the Priest saying divine service, and join their devotions to his. I have read in the life of S. Charles Borromaeus, that in a plague time, he visited those that were infected, and ministered the holy Sacraments to them himself in person; and went in a solemn Procession in the head of the Clergy, with a rope about his neck, and barefoot upon the stones, to move stony hearts to repentance, and to appease the wrath of God angry with his people. 16. The Biblotheca Ambrosiana is one of the best Libraries in Italy, The Library. because it is not so coy as the others, which scarce let themselves be seen; whereas this opens its doors publicly to all comers and goers, and suffers Them to read what book they please. It was begun to be builded by S. Charles, and continued by his Nephew Cardinal Federico Borromaeo: but it was much augmented since by the accession of Vincentius Pinellis books, which after his death, being shipped by his heirs for Naples, and taken by the Turks, were many of them thrown over board by those analphabet Rogues, who looked for other merchandise than books. Yet many of them were recovered again for money, and set up here. Over the heads of the highest shelves, are set up the pictures of learned men, a thing of more cost, than profit; seeing with that cost many more books might have been bought, and learned men are best ●een in their books and writings. Loquere, ut te videam. The Gallery of pictures. 17. Behind the Library stands the Gallery of pictures, where I saw many choice Originals of prime masters, and some exquisite Copies, as those four pieces of the four Elements, which certainly are copied after those that I described above in the house of the Duchess of Savoy near Turin, called lafoy Valentine. But the rarest piece of all, either in the Library, or here, is the rare Manuscript kept here, of Alberto Dureo. Three hundred pounds have been refused for it. The Dominicans. 18. The Dominicans Library is very considerable too. But you must not omit to see the Refectory here, where you shall find an admirable picture of the last supper, made by Rare Laurentius Vincius. The painted Cloister here deserves a visit too. 19 The Gratie. The Monastery also called the Gratie, is one of the best in Europe, in whose Church is a rare picture of Christ crowned with thorns of the hand of Titian. 20. The famous Gallery and curiosities of Canonico Setali, The Cabinet of Canonico Setaly. far better than that of Monsieur Seruier in Lions, of which above. And here I wish my pen were as ingenious to describe all the rare things of this Gallery, as the noble Canon setali hath been in gathering them, and courteous in showing them: some of these curious things I yet remember, for my Readers sake; as a great variety of burning glasses, and yet not Conuexe, as ours ordinarily are; one of them set fire presently to a piece of board an inch thick that was brought forth. 2. A Mandragora. 3. a bird without feet called by Aristotle Apodes. 4. a stone out of which is drawn a thread, which being spun and woven, makes a stuff like linen indeed, but of an incombustible nature: The stone is called Asbestos, and the stuff Amyanthus, which being fowl and soiled, is not be made clean by washing in water, but by throwing into the fire. Baltazar Bonifacius in his Historia Ludicra tells of many who had such stuff. 5. a world of rare Medals of the old Consuls and Emperors in silver, gold, and brass, making divers series. 6. a world of wooden things, as also fruits, and fungi, all petrifyed and turned into stone; and yet no metamorphosis neither, the things retaining their pristin forms. 7. divers curious clocks, whereof one shows the time of the day (strange) even in the night by a quadran. 8. The little round Cabinet flat above, like a child's drum, with a smooth glass: The master setting little ships, coaches, etc. upon the glass, they wheel and move up and down as it were of themselves: when all is done by a sympathetical virtue and by the masters turning secretly a little wheel where there is fastened some loadstone, and the little ships and coaches having also some piece of iron in their bottoms which touch the glass; and so the iron running after the loadstone moved by the wheel, makes these ships and coaches seem to move of themselves. 9 A piece of a thunderbolt, which the Canon himself said he had cut out of a man's thigh strucken with it. 10. divers pieces of Coral just as it grows in the Sea. 11. A little Pillar two handful high of marble, so carcked, that it gapeth wide on one side with the crack, and yet holdeth together fast on the other side, as a great stick of green wood doth, when it is bend so far on one side as to gape, and yet sticks together on the other. 12. A world of rich jewels, strange stones, cameos, pictures, crystals, little infants in wax in glass cases, and many other exotic rarities, which are better seen then described. 21. Some Palaces here: Some Palaces. as that of the Governors, rather vast than curiours; and fitter to lodge Regiments of Guards in, them Viceroys. The Palace of Marini is of a noble structure. That of the Archbishop is very handsome. I saw also the Palace of the Borromaei painted within at the entrace, with the Motto of S. Charles (who was of this family) HUMILITAS. It's related in the life of this Holy Prelate that in twenty years' space that he was Archbishop and Cardinal here, he went but twice to visit his own near Relations in this Palace, and descended but twice into his own garden in his Archiepiscopal Palace: so much work found he it to play the part of an Archbishop well. The Palaces also of the Visconti of the Sfortii, of the Triwltii, and many others, deserve to be seen exactly. 22. The Castle, The Castle. or Citadelle, one of the best in Europe, in the opinion of the Duke of Rohan a competent judged. It stands within and without the town, that is, at the back of the town, like a rod tied at the child's back, to keep him in awe. It's guarded by a garrison of five hundred natural Spaniars with a special Governor of its own, independent of the Governor of Milan. It looks more like a town, than a Castle; being a mile and a half about, and furnished withal conveniences a soldier can require. The large streets in it; the stately houses and Palaces for the chief commanders; the neat piazzas; the number of well furnished shops in all kinds, even goldsmiths too; the five fountains, or Wells, not to be dried up; the Mill; the Hospital; the Church; with eight or ten Chaplains in it, and a Curate; the fair place of arms capable of six thousand men; two hundred great pieces of Cannon upon the walls; the six Royal bastions, the regular fortifications or outworks; the underground way from one bastion to an other; the infinite heaps of Cannon bullets, some whereof weigh 800 pound weight; the three large and deep ditches round about the Castle; the stately entrance gate, and two strong towers, make this Castle one of the most Cavalier curiosities a man can see in Italy. They showed me here the Cannon which killed Mareshal Crequy before Breme, and for that service its allowed to rest here for ever. The shops 23. The shops of Crystals, where you have a world of curiosities in crystal: as watch cases, twizercases, little boxes, pictures cut in crystal, crosses and beads of crystal etc. The shops also of silkstockings which are hugely esteemed in Italy because they are twice as strong as ours, and very massive. The shops, in fine, of embroiderers, whose embroidery in gold and silver is the best in the world, and the cheapest. The Academy of wits. 24. Here is an Academy of wits, called the Nascosti, or Hidden men. But Why Hidden? seeing Wit, like the Sun, should shine publicly, and not bury itself; except it be to show us, that as the Sun never shins brighter, then after he hath been hidden in a Cloud: so wit never shins more, then after it hath been hidden in Study. Hence was that saying of a grave Philosopher, Abscond vitam; that is, lie hidden a while, at the dug of the book. Indeed Demosthenes caused his hair to be shaved off, that by that deformity he might be ashamed to go abroad, and so be obliged to study at home. As for this Academy, it helps much to animate with wit this great town, which otherwise would look like Polyphemus (having lost his eye) great, but blind. Tumour, non est magnitudo. 25. The learned Men. The most famous men of this town for learning, have been these: Valerius Maximus for history: Alciatus, Decius, and jason for Law: Cardan for Philosophy: Panigarola, and Paulus Aresius, for Sermons: Bonacina for Canon Law; and Octavius Ferrarius (whom I knew lately in Milan) for belle lettere. 26. Two other men here are famous for other things; A strong body. to wit Vberto Crucio, and Gulielmo Pus●erula; the first so strong, Leandro Alberto that he could stop a horse in his full gallop with one hand; lift up upon his back a horse loaden with corn; and stand so stiffly upon his legs, that no man, though running against him with all his force, could push him out of his place or posture. A Strong mind. The other without any learning at all, except his first Grammar Rudiments, could with his natural wit only, decide law cases, and make such good orders, that the best Lawyers could not find what to add to them, or what to diminish from them. It's pity these two men had not been melted into one, to have made one excellent man, by their clubbing wit and force together, and their mingling of Sana mens, with Corpore sano. Its revenues. The Revenues that Spain daws from Milan yearly, are two millions and four hundred thousand crowns: besides the thirds, to which they are obliged in time of war. It's strength This state for a need, can raise fifty thousand men. Its Historians. He that desires to know the History of Milan, let him read Corio of the history of Milan: Ripamontius, Scipio Barbono, of the lives of the Duke's of Milan; and Paolo Morigi. Having this seen Milan in six day's time, we took horse for Bologna, six day's journey from hence, and passed through Marignano, Lodi, Piacenza, Parma, Regio, Modena, Fort Vrbano, and so to Bologna; of each I will say something. Marignano is a little town about ten miles distant from Milan, Marignano. and from thence to Lodi the way is most pleasant, and levelly as an alley. Near to this town Francis the first of France fought with the Swissers a famous battle, and killed 16000 of them; and took Ludovicus Sforza the Duke of Milan, who thought to have escaped in Swissers clothes, but was discovered. Lodi is a good just town, Lodi. and frontier upon the Venetians, the river Adda runs under its walls. It's called Lodi either because it's built upon the ruins, or near to old Lodi, which was called Laus Pompeia, because Pompey had restored it. This town is famous for excellent neat's tongues, and cheeses as big as millstones. A gentleman of this town, caused four cheeses to be made each one weighing 500 pound weight. The people here mow their Hay three times a year; and I am afraid they are pulled as often with taxes. Piacenza Piacenza, or Pleasance, deserves its name, by reason of its sweet situation in a rich country near the Po and Trebia, two great rivers. Near the last of which Hannibal overcame Sempronius the Roman Consul. The country round about this town, is very rich in pasturage: Hence their excellent cheeses and rare cream. It aboundeth also in Saltpits which afford no small profit. This town belongs to the Duke of Parma. Its Rarities. The best things to be seen here are, the Equestris statue of the second Alexander the Great, or the first Alexander of Parma. It's in brass in the market place. The old Fountain made by Augustus Caesar. The rare picture of Raphael's hand, in the Benedictius Church behind the high Altar. The Churches of the Dominicans, and the Canon Regulars are no contemptible ones. I observed in this town, a notable piece of thriftiness used by the Gentlewomen; A piece of thrift. who make no scruple, to be carried to their country bouses near the town, in coaches drawn by two Cows yoked together: These will carry the Signora a pretty round trot unto her Villa, There afford her also a dish of their milk, and after collation, bring her home again at night without spending a penny. He that desires to know more of Piacenza, It's History. let him read Vmberto Loccati, Of Piacenza where, Cornelius Musso Bishop of Bitonti a great Preacher and a Trent Father; as also Ferrante Pallavicini. Parma belongs also to the Duke of Parma, Parma. of the house of Farnese. This Duchy was given to Pier Luigi Farnese by Paulus III, upon condition it should hold of the Pope, and pay him yearly ten thousand crowns. It's worth to the Duke two hundred thousand crowns. This town of Parma is three miles in compass, hath the river Parma running through it, over which is built a handsome stone bridge. The country round about the town is most fertile, and begets such credit to the Cheeses, that Parmesan Cheeses are famous over all the world. The Duke's Palace. The Chief things so be seen in Parma, are these. The Duke's Palace, with the gardens, fountains, wildbeasts, the admirable Theatre to exhibit Operas in. The exquisite Coaches of the Duke; one whereof is all of beaten silver, with the Seats and crutains embroidered with gold and silver; an other so well guilt and adorned, that it's almost as rich as the former▪ lastly the stables where I saw horses suitable both in strength and beauty to the foresayd● coaches. The Domo Then I went to the Domo, whose Cupola was painted by the rare hand of Corregio. Lastly to The Capucins, The Capucins. in whose Church lies buried my noble Heros, Alexander Farnese Duke of Parma, Alexander Farnese. whom I cannot meet in this my voyage without a compliment. He was the Third Duke of Parma, but the Tenth worthy. Indeed his leaping the first man into the Turks Galleys in the battle of Lepantho, with Sword in hand, and in the eighteenth year only of his age, was such a prognostik of his future worth; his reduceing Flanders again, with the prodigious actions done by him at the taking of Antweep, was such a making good of the prognostic; Some Critics hold Quintus Curtius to be a Romance and his coming into France in his slippers and Sedan to succour Roven besieged by Henry the IV, was such a crowning of all his other actions, that his history begets belief to Quintus Curtius, and makes men believe, that Alexander's can do any thing. The Revenues of this Prince are said to be six hundred thousand crowns a year. The Duke's Revenues. He is now of the French faction; His interest. His forces and in all his territories he can raise 28000 men. Here is an Academy of wits called the Innominatis, The Academy of wits. as they that had rather be wise, then be talked of, or famed for such. This town hath furnished Italy with two excellent Painters, Corregio, and Parmigiano. It's History. He that would know the particular history of Parma, let him read Bonaventura Arrighi. Regio. From Parma we went to Regio a town belonging to the Duke of Modena▪ here is a neat Cathedral Church, of which Church S. Prosper was Bishop. Of this town were these three learned men, Guido Pancirola, Cardinal Tosco, and snarling Casteluetro. Modena. Modena is the town where the Duke keeps his Court. It's a handsome town, and by its high steeple shows itself to travellers long before they come to it. It hath also a strong Citadel, which lying flat and even with the town, showeth the town that indeed it can be even with it, whensoever in shall rebel. The Palace of the Duke hath some rooms in it as neat, and ri●h, as any I saw in Italy; witness those Chambers hung round with the pictures of those of his family, and wainscotted with great Looking Glasses and rich guilding. This Duke is of the Family of Estè, The Family of Estè. but not of the true line. Wherefore, for want of lawful heirs male, Ferrara and Commachio fell to the Church, in Clement the VIII time, and remain there ever since. Of the true house of Estè, was the brave Countess Matilda, Countess Matilda. the dry-Nurse, as I may say, of the Roman Church. For it was she defended Gregory the VII, against the Emperor Henry the VI, and brought him to aknowlegde his fault, and cry the Pope mercy. It was she also that by Will and Testament left the Pope, Parma, Regio, Mantua, and Ferrara. Hence Vrban the VIII, out of gratitude to this Princess caused her Statue and Tomb to be set up S. Peter's Church in Rome. The will and Testament of this Princess, are kept in Lucca to his day. The last true Consuls. Hard by Modena was fought the famous battle, where Hirtius and Pansa being Consuls, the Senate lost in them its authority. It's Learned Men. Of Modena were these famous men in learning, Cardinal Sadoletus, Carolus Sigonius, and Gabriel Falopius. In Modena are made the best visards for mascarads; and it's no small profit which they draw from this foolish commodity, seeing stultorum plena sunt omnia. The Duke's Revenues. The Revenues of this Duke are three hundred thousand crowns a year; and he is now of the French faction. He can raise 30000 men. His interest. From thence passing the river we came soon to Fort Vrban, a Citadel most regularly built by the command of Pope Vrban the VIII, from whom it's called. His forces It's so strong, that it is not afraid to stand, night and day, Fort Vrban. alone in the fields, and upon the frontiers of the Pope's Estate. Passing from hence through castle Franco, castle Franco. anciently called, Forum Gallorum, we arrived betimes at Bologna. Bologna is one of the greatest towns of Italy, Bologna. and one of the handsomest. It's the second of the Pope's Dominions; and the Chief University of Italy for Law. Hence the jurists say it is Musarum domus, atque omnis nutricula juris, and the very common coin of the country tells you that Bononia docet. It's named, by the Common Proverb, Bologna la grassa, because of the fertile foil in which it stands, to wit in the very end of Lombardy; and the many springs which humect it from the Apennin hills, at whose feet it stands. This country was anciently called Felsina, Gallia Cisalpina, Gallia Togata, to distinguish it from Gallia Braccata, The country in France near Narbonne, And from Gallia Comata, The Country in France called lafoy Guienne. In middling ages it was called Romagnola, because Bologna, Ravenna, Cezena, Forli, Faenza, and Imola stood constant to the City of Rome against the Lombard's, for a long time. The town itself. As for the town of Bologna now, it's excellently well built▪ and for the most part, upon arches, like the Covent Garden in London; only the pillars are round. These Arches bring great conveniency to the inhabitants who can walk all the town over cool and dry, even in july and january. It's five miles in compass, and an excellent summer town, were it not that the air is not altogether so pure, and the wine's heating. Jts' Government. It's governed By a Legate a Latere, sent hither by the Pope, and in change, it sends an Ambassador to Rome, to reside there: so that Bologna is treated by Rome, rather like a Sister, Its Privileges. than à Subject; and deservedly, seeing Bologna fell not to the Church any other way but by her free giving herself to the Pope; reserving only to herself some particular Privileges; as power to send Ambassadors to Rome; and that if any towesman kill another, and can but escape away, his goods cannot be confiscated. I stayed six days here, in which time I saw these things. 1. The Dominicans Church and Convent. The Dominicans Church. In the Church, I saw the tomb of S. Dominick, Founder of that Order. It's all of white marble cut with curious figures relating to his life. In this Church is kept a famous manuscript, to wit, the Bible itself written in parchment by Esdras himself, saith Leandro Alberto the Camden of Italy, and a Friar of this Convent. They show you also here a curious Lamp sent to S. Dominicks tomb by the new converted Indians. It's of a most rare workmanship. Behind the high Altar stands the Choir so famous for the Seats, which are of a rare Mosaic work of coloured wood inlaid into pictures representing the old and new Testaments, and all wrought by one Laybrother called Fra Damiano di Bergamo. This kind of Mosaic work in wood was anciently (saith Vasari) called Tarsia, and in this kind of work Brunelleschi and Maiano did good things in Florence. But john Veronese improved it much afterwards by boiling wood into several colours, and then inlaying it into what postures and figures he pleased. This Choir is shown to strangers as a rare thing; and worthily, since the Emperor Charles the V, had the curiosity to see it, and with the point of his dagger to try whether it were inlaid, or only painted; and the piece which he picked out with his dagger, was never put in again for a memorandum. In this Church, as also in the Chapterhouse and Cloister of this Convent, lie buried many Readers of the Law, who having lived here by the Law, died here also by the Law of Nature. The Dominicans Convent. 2. The Convent here is one of the fairest in Europe, in which 150 Friars constantly live and study. The little Chapel, which was once S. Dominicks Chamber; the vast Dormitory; the fair Library; the great Refectory, and the curious Cellar are shown courteously to strangers. 3. The Nunnery of Corpus Christi. It's of S. Clares Order, and famous for the body of Beata Catherina di Bologna▪ a most holy Nun of this Order and Convent. The Body Beata Catherina I saw her body sitting strait up in a chair, in her Religious habit: She holds her Rules in her right hand; and we see her face, and and feet plainly, but those black and dried up. 4. From hence I went on to the town Gate, The Corso a little out of which gate lies a fair street where they make the Corso of coaches in summer evenings. 5. Turning from hence on the left hand, I went to S. Michael in Bosco a stately Monastery of Olivetan Fathers, S. Michael in Bosco. standing upon a high hill. From this Hill I had a perfect view of Bologna under me, and of all the country about it; which being levelly and strewed with a world of white houses and Villas, looked like a Sea loaden with ships under sail. Entering into this Monastery, I saw the Oual Court painted by several prime masters, of which Guido Rheni of Bologna was one. Then mounting up to the Dormitory, I found it to be one of the fairest I had ever seen. Other stately Monasteries. 6. The Monastery, or Convent of the Franciscans, with the rare row of pillars, and portico towards the street, the excellent Cloisters, and the curious Cellar. 7. The Monastery of S. Saluatore with its two Vast Courts or double Cloister built upon galleries above, it's a noble building. 8. The Monastery of the Seruits, that of the Augustins, and that of the Carmelits are all of them such stately buildings, that I may boldly say, that no town in Europe is comparable to Bologna for fair Monasteries. S. Petronios' Church. 9 Then I visited San Petronio standing in the end of the great Piazza, of which Church Leandro Alberto writ a hundred years ago, that he thought it would not be ended but with the world's end. And I am half of his opinion: for when I passed that way last I found the scaffolds yet standing, which I had found there one and twenty years before; and yet in all my five Voyages into Italy, I found them always knocking and making as much noise and dust, as if this Church should be finished within half a year, when as yet half of it is only finished. In this Church Charles the V. was crowned Emperor by Clement the VII. 10. The Domo, The Dom● which is not yet half funished neither: yet that which is finished promiseth fair for the rest. 11. Other Churches The new Church of S. Paul hath a curious High Altar. In the Church of S. Giovanni in Monte is the rare picture of S. Cecily of the hand of Raphael Urbin. The jesus is Church, the Church of S. Stephen, and that of the Passion deserve to be seen. 12. The Legates Palace. After the Churches and Monasteries, we went on with visiting the rest of the town, and saw the Palace of the Pope's Legate: in this Palace I saw the rare Cabinet and Study of Aldrovandus, to whom Pliny the Second if he were now alive, Aldrovan does his Study & Cabinet. would but be Pliny the sixth, for he hath printed six great volumes of the natures of all things in nature, each volume being as big as all Plinyes works. They showed me here two or three hundred manuscripts, all of this man's own hand writing, and all of them Notes out of the best authors, out of which Notes he compiled his six great Volumes which are now in print. Seeing these Manuscripts I asked whether the man had lived three hundred years, or no, as it's said joannes de Temporibus, In Charles the greats time did: but it was answered me, that he lived only fourscore and three: a short age for such a long work: but it showeth us how far a man may travel in sciences in his life time, if he rise but betimes, and spurr on all his life time with obstinate labour. Certainly had he wrote before Salomon's time, Solomon would have changed his saying, and instead of sending the slothful man to learn of the pismire how to labour, he would have sent him to Aldrovandus his study and example: Vade ad Aldrovandum piger. 13. The Great Schools here where the Doctors of the University read are stately both within, The Schools. and without. 14. The Spanish College founded here by noble Cardinal Albornozzo, The Spanish College. deserves to be taken notice of. It's well built, with a handsome Church and five Priests to serve it. The intention of his College is to furnish all the King of Spayns dominions in Italy with able Magistrates and officers of justice. None can live in it but Natural Spaniards (except the Chaplains) and those Spaniards must be Doctors of the Law before they can be admitted here▪ they only learn the language and customs of the countries, and perfect themselves in the study of the Law, that they may be fit to fill up the first vacant places of judicature that fall either in the State of Milan, in the kingdom of Naples, or in Sicily. They have a revenue of twelve thousand crowns a year. They keep two Coaches, live very nobly, and lodge all Spanish Ambassadors, Cardinals, and Prelates of their nation that pass this way. In the College you see the pictures of many great Statesmen and Cardinals, and others, who have been of this College: but no picture pleased me like that of their brave founder noble Cardinal Albornozzo which is in the Church, and representing him in the same posture he was in, when he recovered all the Pope's state in Italy, unto the Pope then at Auignon; of which I have spoken sufficiently above in describing Auignon. The 2 Towers. 15. The two Towers here in the midst of the town, the one very high and strait called, de gli Asinelli; the other low and bending, called lafoy Carisenda. They would make us believe that this bending tower was made crooked a purpose; and its strange to see how most men make it their business rather to see this low crooked tower, than the other, which is both higher and straighter. But there's no mastery to make things ill, and to miss of our aims: and I rather think the Carissenda or low Tower, went not up higher, because the Architect perceived it went up awry. But we strangers admire every thing in strange countries, and that makes that none admire us: Upon which occasion I would wish my young traveller never to admire any thing in outward show, but to look curiously at every thing without crying out, o che Belae Cosa! This will get him and his Nation far more honour, for Admiration is but the daughter of Ignorance; and Magnanimus, (saith Aristotle) nihil admiratur. 16. Then the Houses here, The Houses in Bolognia. which are generally well built, and in Summer time, setting open their doors & gates towards the street, you may look quite through their courts, entryes, portches, houses, and a huge way into their gardens, which even from thence, will salute your eye with dainty perspectives, fountains, and fresh verdure; and your nose too with curious smells of jesmin, and Orange flowers, as they did mine often. Now the best Palaces here are those of Maluezzi, Campeggi, Pepoli, Fachinetti, Cespi and others. The Nobility. 17. These fine houses are full also of Nobility, and I remember to have seen here at a Corsodi Paglio upon Midsummer day the long great, street lined quite through with coaches on both sides, & those coaches double lined with Ladies and Cavaliers of Garbo. Indeed it would be pity, that such a stately town as Bologna, should like Leyden in Holland, be full only of Hanses and Boren. 18. Their traffic here consisteth much in silks, The Traffic. velvets, olives, leather bottles, jellies, wash balls, and little dogs for Ladies, which here are so little, that the Ladies carrying them in their muffs, have place enough for their hands too. 19 Their markets here are also exquisitely good for all provisions of mouth, The Markets. witness their salsiccie only which are a regalo for a Prince. 20. The Academy of wits. But that you may not think them better fed, then taught; they have erected here an Acadamy of wits called, Gli Otiosi, or, Jdlemen, by a figure of Rhetoric called a Lie, or per antiphrasim, because they are not idle. It's this Academy (I believe) which hath helped to set out three rare modern writers of this town, The Learned Men. Cardinal Bentivoglio, The Marquis of Maluezzi, and john Baptista Manzini; the first, the Titius Livius of his age, the second, the Lucius Florus of his age; and the third, the Marcus Tullius of his time. To whom I may add Leandro Alberti, the Chamden of Italy. 21. He that desires to know the particular history of Bologna, let him read Bartholomeo Gal●otti, The Historians. and Giovanni Garzo, where he shall find how Bologna suffered much anciently by the two opposite factions of the Lambertazzi and the Geremei. But now they enjoy quiet and repose under the Pope. Having thus seen Bolognia, and being armed with a Bolettina di Sanita, Remember this Bolettina, Traveler. taken here, to make us be let pass into the State of Florence, we steered on horseback towards Florence and reached it in two days. The first day's journey by Pianora, Loiano, Scarga L'Azino, Pietra Mala, and over the Apennins, The Apennin Hills. was long and tedious enough, till the night came, at which time we were much recreated with the sight of a Fire which appeared some two miles off in the side of a montain on our left hand. This fire appears here frequently especially in cloudy whether: and it appeared to me for an hour together as I road along, to be still of the same bigness, and of the same glowy colour (furnace like) and of a perfect round form, and not pyramidal, as other flames are. The country people here call this fire, La Bocca d' Inferno, Hell's mouth; and I know not why they may not as well call this fire so, as Tertullian calls Veswius and Aetna (two burning montaines) Fumariola inferni, Tertul. l. de Penitent. c. 12. Hell's chimneys. Taken in fine, with this fixed meteor, we forgot the tediousness of the way and came to Fiorenzuola. Fiorenzuola. The next morning passing by Scarperia and Il Ponte we arrived betimes at Florence I confess, I stirred not out of my Inn that night, because fair Florence (as the Proverb calls her) is not to be seen in fowl linen, My arrival at Florence. and riding boots: but getting up betimes the next morning, I gave my eyes such a breakfast as Prince's eyes would be glad to feed upon. But before I come to the particulars of what I saw in Florence, I will consider it in great, and then come to the Detail of it. Florence. divers good Authors are of opinion that this town was first built by Sulla's soldiers, to whom he had given this soil for their services done him in his Civil wars. They built it near the current of two rivers (Arno and Munio) and from thence it was called at first Fluentia (as Coblentz in Germany, from the meeting of rivers, is called Confluentia.) Afterwards by the Inhabitants it was called Florentia, by reason of the fruitful soil which made it flourish with all delicacies; as also for the flourishing wits of the inhabitants, who were so famous anciently in point of wit, that the very Romans used to send their children first into Toscany, to be bred in learning and Religion, and then into grease to learn Greek and Philosophy. Having enquired the name of this town, I began to desire its better acquaintance, and attained it easily in a month's space which I spent here: The things I observed most were these. The Chapel of S. Laurence. 1. The Chapel of S. Laurence, which is the nearest thing that ever eye beheld. All the inside of it is to be overcrusted with jasper stones, of several colours and countries, with other rich stones, all above marble, and all so neatly polished and shining, that the Art here exceeds the materials. This Chapel is round, and round about are to by fixed within the walls, as high as a man can reach, the Tombs of all the Great Dukes of Florence, in a most gallant manner, and of most exquisite polished stones, with a great cushion of some richer stone, and a Ducal crown of precious stones reposeing upon that cushion. Over these Tombs the Statues of all the Great ●ukes, at full length, and in their Ducal habits, all of brass guilt, are to be placed in Niches round about the Chapel. The roof is to Vaulted all over with an overcrusting of Lapis Lazuli (a blue precious stone with veins of gold in it) which will make it look like heaven itself. Between each tomb are inlaid in the walls, the arms, or Scutcheons of the several towns of the Great Duke's dominions, all blazoned according to their several colours in heraldry, by several precious stones which compose them: and these are not made in little, but are fair great Scutcheons made purposely of a large size for to fill up the void places between the Tombs. The towns are these; Florence, Sienna, Pisa, Livorno, Volterra, Arezzo, Pistoia, Cortona, Monte Pulciano etc. which contributed (I suppose) something each of them to this costly Fabric in fine, this Chapel is so rich within with its own shining bare walls, that it scorns all hangings, painting, guilding, mosaic work, and such like helpers off of bare walls, because it can find nothing richer and handsomer than its own precious walls. It's now above threescore years since it was begun, and there are ordinarily threescore men at work daily here, and yet there's only the Tomb of Ferdinand the Second perfectly finished. The very Cushion which lieth upon his Tomb, cost threescore thousand crowns, by which you may guess at the rest▪ indeed these stately Tombs make almost death itself look lovely, and dead men's ashes grow proud again. As for the Altar and Tabernacle of this Chapel, I will speak of them by and by, when I describe the Gallery of the Great Duke, where they are kept till the Chapel be finished. 2. The Church of S. Laurence, which belongs to this Chapel, The Church of S. Lorenzo. or rather to which this chapel belongs; is a very handsome church designed by Brunellischi himself. The things that grace this church are the neat double row of round pillars which hold up the roof of this Fabric. The picture over the Choir painted in the roof, representing the genaral judgement, It's a bold piece and of Pontorno: The two Brazen pulpits wrought into hystories by rare Donatello: The curious designed picture of S. Anne and our Blessed Lady, in chiaro e oscuro, by Fra Bartolomeo, commonly called Del Frate, is so well a designed piece, that a Duke of Mantua, having seen it, offered to buy it at any rate, but was refused. The new Sacristy (made to serve the fine Chapel described above) deserves to be carefully visited, because of the bodies of the Princes of the Family of Medici's, which are depositated here, till the Chapel mentioned above, be finished. In this new Sacristy also are seen, the four statues made by Michael Angelo representing The Day, the Night, Aurora, and the Evening; the four parts which compose Time, by which all men are brought to their Graves: That which represents Night, is a rare statue, and hugely cried up by all Sculptors and Virtuosos. See also in the Wall of the old Sacristy the neat Tomb of john and Peter Medici's sons of Cosmus surnamed Pater Patriae; It's the work of Andrea Varochio. In the midst of this Church, before the High Altar, lies buried Cosmus Pater Patriae the Rayser of the Medicean family. In the Cloister joining to this Church, is erected the Statue of Paulus jovius the Historian; and near to this statue you mount up a pair of stairs to the rare Library of Manuscripts called, The Library. Bibliotheca Laurentiana, the Catalogue of whose books is printed at Amsterdame an: 1622, in octavo. The Great Duke's Gallery. 3. The Gallery of the old Palace. This is that Gallery so famous, and so frequently Visited by all Strangers. At your entrance into this Gallery, you see a Vast long room made like an L: on the left hand of this Gallery, there runs a perpetual glass window; on the other side are set a row of pictures in great, of those of the Medicean Family: under the windows, and also under the said Pictures stand a row of curious Marble statues, ancient ones all, and of prime hands. Over the said windows and Pictures runs a close row of less Pictures, representing to the life, the most famous men of later times for learning, and Arms; the soldiers being on the right hand, and the scholars on the left. The statues aforesaid are well nigh a hundred in all, but all rare ones: Some whereof I yet remember, and they are these: That of Leda, of Diana, of Bacchus, of Hercules, of the Gladiator standing on his guard, of Scipio Africanus in brass, showing the ancient habit and dress of the old Romans, far different from our modes: that of a little young youth in brass with his sword in his hand: that of a little boy sleeping upon a touchstone: The head of Cicero in marble: that of Seneca: the Head of Michael Angelo Bonarota in brass of his own hand making: in fine, the head of Brutus one of Caesar's murderers; It was begun in marble by Michael Angelo, but informedly; and so left by him: If you will know the reason why he finished it not, read the distich written in brass under this head by the said sculptor himself, thus: M. Dum Bruti effigiem Sculptor A. de marmore ducit, B. In mentem sceleris Venit, & F. abstinuit. The four corner letters signifying that Michael Angelus Bonarota Fecit. Pictures of famous Soldiers. Among the pictures, I took particular notice of these Soldiers, of Hannibal that frighted Rome: of Scipio that took Carthage and vanquished Hannibal: of Pyrrhus that made the Romans glad to make peace with him: of Scanderbag that made the Great Turk afraid to fight with him: of Venerius that helped to win the battle of Lepento: of Alexander Farnese that never lost battle: of Cortesius that found out new countries: of Magellanus that found out new Seas▪ of Andrea D'Oria who beat the French by Sea: of Gaston de Foix who had beat the Spaniards by land if he had but known how to use his Victory: of the Duke of Alva, who only lamented deying that he had never fought a pitched battle with the Turks: of Anne de Montmorency who dying was glad to die in a pitched battle against the Hugonots: of Eccelino the Paduan Tyrant, of whom no man can Speak any good: of Castrucio of whom no man can speak any ill; with a world of other brave Heros with whose true looks I was very glad to be acquainted. Pictures of Learned Men. Among the pictures of the learned men I took particular notice of these Italians, to wit, Petrarck, Ariosto, joannes Casa, Poggio, Macchiavel, Guiciardin, Paulo jovio, Sannazario, Bocaccio, Platina, Brunelleschi, Michael Angelo, Raphael Urbin, Columbus, Americus, and Galileo, with many others too long to relate, and too many to be remembered. Having thus gazed our fill at these statues and pictures, and by particular taking notice ofthem, complimented the great Worthies they represent, we where let into the great Cabinets, or Chambers which join upon this Gallery. The Armoury. First, we saw the Armoury, that is, three or four great chambers full of exotic curiosities: as, the habits of two Indian Kings made of Parrot's Feathers sowed together: the habits of some janissaryes in Turkey, of read velvet set thick with little nails of gold, which they can take out and dress up other suits with: the habit of the King of China: the skin of a horse pasted upon a wooden horse, the mane of which horse is kept there in a box all at length, and it is above five else long: This horse had been sent to the Great Duke by the Duke of Lorraine. Then we were shown Hannibal's Helmet: the Helmet of Charles the V; the sword of Henry the IV of France; a curious Helmet thin and light, and yet of musket proof; a huge heavy Helmet and sword of one of the old Paladins of France; the true sword of Scanderbag, a world of Cimetars, scabards, caps, saddles and other Turkish furniture set thick with Turquoises in gold; a great gun, whose thick barrel is of pure gold, and yet as long as an ordinary fowling piece, and as heavy as a strong man can well levelly with: it's valued at 1500 pistols, and shoots twice as far as another gun of iron doth, but kills (I believe) with the same pain that others do, though with a little more honour. Here is a great pistol of gold. Then the buona notte, or set of pistols (five pistol barrels set together in an iron Frame) to put into your hat, and to be all shot off at once from thence, as you seem to salute your enemy and bid him, Good night. The pistol with eighteen barrels in it, all to be shot off at once and scattering desperately about a Room▪ six little cannons set in star wise. The little Brass Cannon which may be taken in pieces presently, and set together as soon, and so be carried easily into any steeple, or tower: such Cannons as these might easily be carried in deep countries, and over high mountains, every Soldier carrying a piece. The statue in brass of the King of Spain, Philip the fourth on horseback, just of the bigness of that of gold which the Great Duke sent to the said King of Spain for a present; It was made by rare john di Bologna. Then I saw the armour for horse and man of two Kings of Persia. The armour of the Great Duke Ferdinand, a goodly man. The King of Swedes Cornet taken in Germany in a battle. The buckler with the Medusa's head on it, painted by Michael Angelo. A Turkish Bell to ring in time of battle. A horn used in Turkey to call men to their Moskyes instead of bells, as we have. The head of a halberd ringing like a bell. A halberd to fouled up in three, and to carry under your cloak privately. A staff of a white cane, in which are curiously engraven in black, the histores of the Apocalypse. It was the Duke of Urbin's. In fine, the loadstone holding up threescore pound weight of iron, and holding one key to an other, for a matter of five, or six keys. After the armoury, we were let into the five Cabinets full of precious jewels, The 1. Cabinet. pictures, and other rare curiosities. In the first Cabinet, I was shown a curious Clandlestick to hang up in the middle of a room with several branches spreading from it, and all of yellow Amber, including within it a world of little figures of white marble or wax, neatly cut in little, and appearing through the transparent yellow amber: This Candlestick was given by the Duchess of Lunebourg, to the Duke of Saxony, and by him to Prince Mathias brother to this Great Duke of Florence. In the same Cabinet I saw a Table of polished stones of several colours and lustre, inlaid into birds and flowers. The head of Tiberius Caesar in one Turkey stone, as big as a Duck's egg, and of an inestimable value. A curious cabinet, or two, of ivory cups brought out of Germany by Prince Mathias. In the same Cabinet I saw the picture of Cardinal Bembo in a neat Mosaic work; and an other piece of divers birds in mosaic also, rarely done by Marcellus Provincialis. I saw also there divers little old Pagan Idols in iron; and brass. A design of Raphael's own hand; and some good pictures. In the 2 Cabinet I saw two great Globes; which were made in this room, being too great ever to be carried out, or brought into it by the door. The 2. Cabinet I saw also here a curious table of polished stones representing a town in Bohemia, w●th divers pictures of men, horses, and Landscapes: where there is a tree represented most naturally, because it is represented by the very wood of a tree Petrifyed into stone, and looking like wood as it was; and shining like polishd stone, as it now is. The statues, or bustos of three or four of the Great Dukes, in Porphyry. A curious looking glass over the inside of the door, which placed directly over the picture of a man, contracts into it the picture of a woman (that man's wife) which you see plainly in it: drawing thus Eve out of Adam again by a curious reflection. In the 3 Cabinet I was shown a curious table of polished stones representing perfectly the town and haven of Leghorn. The 3. Cabinet. A great Cabinet of Ebeny beset with precious stones on the outside, and with the history of the holy Scriptures curiously expressed in miniature in several little squars of rich stones set here and there. In the top of it, there is a Germane clock, now out of order, and no man dare mend it. Within this great Cabinet I saw the passion of our Saviour curiously cut by Michael Angelo in ivory (say they) but I believe it's in white wax. There is also in it the figures of our Saviour and his twelve Apostles in yellow amber with their heads in white amber: All these several pieces are not seen at once, but come up into sight one after another, as the man turns them. This Ebeny Cabinet was sent ●o the great Duke by the Duke of Bavaria, and it's valued at fourscore thousand crowns: I believe, if it were to be sold, it would not yield forty thousand crowns; but its handsome, saith Seneca, for those that receive courtesies, to value them high. Here are also some pictures of great value, as the Adam and Eve of the hand of Alberto Dureo, an original piece valued at 1500 crowns. An original Venus of Titian, that in the Poggio Imperiale here (of which below) looking but like a good copy of this. Here are also several Persian chairs, and other good originals of prime hands. In the 4. Cabinet, called Jl Tribuno we saw more riches then in all the others. This Tribuno is a great room built round with a Cupola, whose vault is painted with a deep sanguine red, set full with the shells of Mother of pearl. The 4. Cabinet. The walls of this room are hung with green silk, and loaden with excellent pictures of the prime masters of the world, Titian, Raphael, Andrea del Sarto, Vinci, Hans Holbain, Vandike and others. The S. John Baptist is of Raphael's hand; as is also that of Leo the X. with two Cardinals, julio Medici, & Cardinal Rossi behind him. The picture of Southwell privy counsellor to Henry the VIII, is of the hand of rare Hans Holbain. The picture of our Lady with our Saviour in her arms is of the hand of Andreo del Sarto. The picture of Cardinal Bentivoglio sitting in a chair, is of the hand of Vandike. There is also a rare picture in miniature of Giulio Glorios' hand, and three fair pieces in miniature of an Augustin Friar yet living, and a man of great esteem; having taken the right course to be famous, that is, to make but few pieces, but these finished with all the patience which miniature requires. In this tribuno I saw also the famous Nail half gold, half iron, made by the famous Alchemist Thurnheuser. They showed me also a great lump of gold, not yet stamped into coin; two shells of Mother of pearl with their two pearls still sticking to them, and just as they grow: The Pearls, are rich pearls and round. The two pieces of Emmeraud-rock, the one scarce form yet into perfect Emmeraud, but only begun: the other quite finished and green. Then two close cupboards within the walls of this room, in which I saw a world of curious cups and Vases of crystal, Agate, Lapis Lazuli, and other such curious, but brickle matter, yet of rare fabric and shape: They value them at two hundred thousand crowns. The unicorns horn, and the alabaster pillar are not to be forgotten. The great Cabinet of Ebeny standing at the further end of this Tribuno, full of ancient medals of gold silver, and brass, of the ancient Consuls, and Emperors, all digested into their several series; and yet this Cabinet is almost as rich without, as it contains riches within; being set without with precious stones of a vast biggness and value; to wit, a Saphir as broad as a twenty shillings piece, and half an niche thick; a ruby full as great, but far richer; an emmeraud not inferior to the rest; a pearl as big as an ordinary walnut; a world of Diamonds and other lesser stones, but all of so great value, that this Cabinet, with that which is in it, is valued to be worth five hundred thousand crowns. Lastly, I saw here the great round table made of inlaid precious stones, polished neatly; a table able to make the most hungry stomach forget its gumbing, to feed its eyes upon the unroasted birds which together with curious flowers compose this admirable table; Pearls, Rubies, Saphires, Cornelians, Emmerauds, Lapis Lazuly etc. are employed here artificially to the making of these birds & flowers. You'll conceive better of this table when I shall tell you that it is worth a hundred thousand crowns, and that it was fiftheen years in making, and yet thirty men wrought at it daily. The 5. Cabinet. In the midst of it is the great Balle of the Arms of the Duke of Florence in precious stones. The 5. Cabinet standing at the further end of this Gallery, containeth the Altar and Tabernacle, which are to be set up in the new Chapel of S. Laurence described above. Having viewed them six several times exactly (as I did) you will perchance be of my opinion, that this Tabernacle made for to keep the Blessed Sacrament in, is able, or nothing is able, to make a mends in same sort, to our Saviour for his course lodging in Bethleem, when he was borne in a stable and lodged in a manger. The crystal pillars curiously wrought, and being a full elle long, with their Capitelli of pure gold: the four like pictures of precious stones which were five years each of them in cutting: the Variety of other precious stones set thick here and there, and of great size: the neat contexture of other polished stones of sevetall colours and lustre: the pictures of inlaid precious stones, which compose the Antependium of the Altar: the variety of rich Cameos which are set here and there, and cut into pictures: in fine, the whole composure of this Altar and Tabernacle, being the height of wit and riches, I can neither describe enough, nor you admire sufficiently. 4. The Argentaria. Having thus seen the Gallery and adjoining Cabinets, I was presently led into another quarter of this Palace, where I saw the Great Dukes Argentaria, or Plate. Entering into this great squar room, I saw twelve great cupboards as high as the room, set with excellent plate in all kinds. In one of them they showed me a whole service of beaten gold, as dishes, plaits, forks, spoons, knives, with a world of other rich vessels set in gold; also little pictures in miniature; curious little Cabinets beset with gold and jewels; a Turkish Cimetar whose handle and scabbard of gold, are thick set with diamonds and precious stones; two other swords with their hilts of gold curiously wrought with Diamonds; a Dagger suitable to one of them and of the same richness; a great Cross set think with Diamonds, and other precious stones; a rare cup of one great Emmeraud, with a cover to it of the same; a basin and Ewer of gold set very thick with Turkey stones. In another Cupboards I saw great variety of silver plate in all kinds. In an other, they showed me a saddle and bridle with stirops of gold, all set thick with Turkey stones, Diamonds, Pearls, and other rich stones, with the saddle clot●, or house, all embroidered with Gold and Pearl: this was a present from the Emperor to the Grand Duke. In an other cupboard they showed me the four great silver bedposts enamelled here and there, and set with polished stones of divers colours: They were made for the marriage bed of the now Great Princess daughter to the late Duke of Orleans. In an other they showed me a curious Antependium for an Altar, all of beaten gold set with Pearl, precious stones, and the picture of Cosmus the second in the middle of it, of curious enamelled work, with his Ducal crown set with Diamonds very richly; all along this Antependium above, runs an Inscription in letters composed of many rubies, each letter being two fingers long, and importing these words: COSMUS TWO DEI GRATIA MAGNUS DUX ETURIAE EX VOTO. In another cupboard I was shown the foot of an Elan, and a Wizard all set, and covered with Turkey stones. The great Hall. 5. Descending from hence, we where led into the great Hall of this palace, a vast room painted on all sides of the Walls with bold painting, representing the Victoires of the Florentines anciently. Here it is that on midsummer day, the country people come and dance before the Great Duke, and the best dancers are recompensed with an honourable reward. 6. From hence I was let into the long Corridor, The long Corridor. or close Gallery which runs from the new Palace to the old, over the river, and over the tops of houses; for the space of half a mile, with many turnings and windings. It's very useful for the Prince when he will go see his precious Treasure in the old Palace, or else go privately and hear how justice is ministered there. For the Great Duke Francis gave order to Buontalenti, a rare Architect, to break a window from this Corridor into the great room in the old palace, where the magistrates render justice, but yet so privately that none should perceive it. The Architect did it, by setting up there the Duke's arms at large, and breaking a window behind them so imperceptibly, that the Great Duke through the little holes made in the six bowls of his arms, could both hear and see how justice was rendered there by his officers. And one day hearing a poor woman oppressed by an unjust sentence, he sent for the judges, and reprehending them severely, he reversed the former sentence, and hearing the cause a new himself, pronunced Sentence for the poor woman. The new Palace. 7. This long Corridor led us to the new Palace, called the Palazzo di Piti, because it was begun to be built by Luca Piti, after the design of Brunellischi: but the expenses growing too great for Pitis purse, it was bought by the mother of great Cosmus the TWO, and afterwards carried on by her to that perfection we now see it in, and which makes it one of the prime palaces of Europe. The design of it (for it is not yet all quite built▪ is to be a perfect Roman H, with double rooms on all sides. As you ascend up to it, by an easy ascent from the street, it presents you with a fair broad side of building, in which I counted two and twenty great windows all in a row, and all a like, and all of them cheeked up on either Fide by Sine stone pillars. The fashion of building in this palace, as in most of the best palaces of Florence, is that which they call in architecture, la maniera rustica; where great freestones are made advanceing a little one over the other. Entering into the Palace, we saw the fair court; and in the end of it, the Grotta or fountain with a large basin, in which they keep fish for present use. This Court is squar, and open only on one side towards the garden, but hedged in with a high terrace of stone, whose top is levelly with the ground of the garden. The Garden. Beyond this terrace and court, lies a fine green spot of ground level with the first story of the palace, and half compassed about with a demicircle of laurel trees high and thick. Under these trees of the demicircle, rise up stone seats, six rows high, like the seats in an Amphitheatre; and capable of two thousand men, who may all sit here with ease, and behold the sports of Cavalry which are often exhibited upon this fair green spot of ground by the nobility: the Great Duke and the Court beholding all this from the windows of the palace, while the rest of the nobility and Ladies are seated conveniently in the Amphitheatre under the trees. The rest of this garden is curiously setforth with thickets of bays, close shady walks, fine high open walks over looking both the town and country, great ponds of water, a world of statues of marble and stone, a rare round basin of water, with fountains and much wetting sport; the place for birds and beasts; the curious Ice house and cool Cellar under it, where the melting ice dropping down upon the barrels of wine, refresh it so exceedingly, that in all my life time I never drunk so cool, as I did at the tap in this cellar. But to return again to the palace, from whence this garden hath led me; from the garden, we ascended into the chambers of the Great Duke's appertiment, The Duke's Appartiment. and found them most sumptuous, both for contrivance and furniture. Some of them are painted over head by Pietro di Cortona the prime painter now living: others expect his return again from Rome, and scorn to be painted by any hand but his: in another chamber, we were shown the history of Saleucus giving to his only son Antiochus (languishing and pincing away with the love of his mother in law) his own beloved wife Stratonica; showing by this strange, and unick example, that paternal love is greater than Conjugal. All this is rarely painted upon the wall over the hangings. A Rare suit of Hangings. In another chamber (the Great Duke's chamber of Audienc) I saw a suit of hangings Valued at a hundred and fifty thousand crowns: The Ground of them is cloth of gold, upon which are embroidered a world of birds, beasts, flowers, trees, rivers, Landscapes in silk and silver; and in such a rich manner, that I take this to one of the fairest suits of hangings in Europe. In an other chamber here, I saw a rare collection of pictures, all originals, and of the best hands in the world, Titians, Raphael's, Michael Angelos, Andrea del Sartos, and many others. The best of them is that of Raphael, and painted by his own hand. This is the best collection of pictures that ever I saw, and it belongs to Prince Leopold the Great Duke's brother, and a great Virtuoso. In the Great Dutcesses' chamber, I saw half a dozen of excellent pieces of Raphael and others. In another chamber (The Duke's Bedchamber) we saw his curious Thermometers, or weather glasses, which are most curious. In an other chamber (the doors being set open for the Nonce) we looked through sixteen chambers at once, and all of them fair great rooms upon one floor. And after all the rooms of this house (as, the cool low summer rooms, the masking room, the several appartiments of the Great Prince sonn of the Great Duke, and of Cardinal john Carlo, Prince Mathias, and Prince Leopold all three brothers of the Great Duke, and all lodging at once in this great Palace) by special favour, we got the sight of the Great Dukes fair Diamond, The famous Diamond. which he always keeps under lock and key. It's absolutely the fairest in Europe, It weigheth 138 charats, and it's almost an inch thick: and then our jewellers will tell you what its worth. I am sure Monsieur Simonet in Lions (a famous jeweller) to whom I showed the weight and thickness of it, valued in to be richly worth a hundred thousand crowns between merchant and merchant, and a hundred and fifty thousand crowns between Prince and Prince. The Augustins' Church. 8. Going from the Great Duke's Palace, we fell presently upon the Augustins' Church. This is a neat Church designed by Brunelleschi, and much beautified with handsome pillars. The Tabernacle and High Altar cost a hundred thousand crowns, and yield to few in Italy for neatness and state. Behind the High Altar in the very end of the Church, is a rare picture of our Saviour absolving the poor woman catched in adultery. The confusion that appears in the face of this woman, makes it appear what a rare painter Allori was, who made this picture. The Piazza. 9 Passing from hence over the bridge (where four white marble statues representing the four seasons of the year stand, all made by Michael Angelo) we came to the Piazza of the Gran Duca, where I saw the Equestris statue of Cosmus the Great in Bronze, with his Victories and prime actions in the pedestal, of the same metal. At the corner of the old palace in this Piazza, stands the brave Fountain, with a Neptune, Tritons, and Nereids. Near the gates of the palace here, stand two statues of more than Gygant can bulk: that of David is the hand of Michael Angelo: and that of Hercules killing Cacus is of the hand of Bandinelli. The other statues here in the Portico hard by, are much cried up for rare pieces, as that of Perseus in brass; that of the rapt of the Sabins, in marble; and that of judith in brass holding a sword in one hand, and Holofernes his head in the other. 10. Looking up from this Piazza to the top of the palace, I beheld the high Tower mounted thereupon. It's a hundred and fifty yards from the ground, and which is the wonder, it hath no other foundation than the wall of the palace and the top of the house: Hence it's said, that the Florentines have three wonderful Towers: Three admirable Towers. one in the ayr'● to wit, this Tower: an other in the water, to wit the Fanal of Leghorn: and the third in the Earth, to wit, the Campanile of Florence, whose foundations are exceeding deep in the ground. 11. Going from the Piazza towards the Domo, we were presently stopped by the Church of S. Michael a square flat Church, The Church of S. Michael. whose outside is adorned with rare statues, if not of gold, yet worth their weight it gold. The best are▪ that of S. Matthew in brass made by Laurentius Cion: that of S. Thomas in brass thouch the side of our Saviour with great demonstration of diffidence in his looks, is of Andrea Varrochios' hand. That of S. Peter in marble is excellent for the Drappery of it. That of S. George in marble, is compared to to the best in Rome, and hath been praised both in Prose and verse: that of S. Mark hath so grave and honest a countenance, that Michael Angelo (a competent judge) stopping one day to behold it, and being asked what he thought of it, answered: if S. Mark had Such a countenance as this, as its likely he had, a man might almost, for his looks sake, believe all that he wrote: for never did I see (said he) any man have more the looks of a good man, than this. 12. Going from hence we were presently at the Domo. The Domo. This, I believe, was the finest Church in Italy when it was built. It was anciently called S. Reparatas Church; but since it is called Santa Maria Florida, a fit name for the Cathedral of Florence. The foundations and architecture of it were contriveed by Arrolfo di Lapo, a Dutchman, and a la maniera rustica, saith Vasari of it, In his lifes of painters. It's one of the neatest Churches without, that I ever beheld; being elad in white, red, and black marble, but it's only white plastered within, with pillars of a dark coloured freestone. What if the Architect of this Church were somewhat of Diogenes his mind? and as Diogenes thought the world would be turned up side down one day; so this Architect thought that the world would be turned inside out one day, and that than his Church would be the fairest in the world, and all lined with marble: As it is, it looks a little hypocritically; though the structure within be of a notable contrivance. On the top of it stands mounted a fair Cupola (or Tholus) made by Brunelleschi a Florentin. The Cupola. This was the first Cupola in Europe; and therefore the more admirable for having no Idea after which it was framed; and for being the Idea of that of S. Peter's in Rome, after which so many young Cupolas in Rome, and else where, have been made since. Hence it is said, that Michael Angelo coming now and then to Florence (his native country) whiles he was making the Cupola in Rome of S. Peter's Church, and viewing attentively this Cupola of Florence, used to say to it; Como te non voglio: meglio di te non posso. It's said also that Brunelleschi making this Cupola caused Taverns, cookeshops, and lodgings, to be set up in it, that the workmen might find all things necessary there, and not spend time in going up and down: and he had reason: for this Cupola from the ground below, to the top of all the Lantern, is two hundred and two Braccie, or yards high. The strait passage from the top of the cupola to the round brazen ball, is thirty six yards high. The Ball is four yards wide, and capable of four and twenty men: and the cross at the top of this ball, is eight yards long. The strait passage up to the Ball is neatly contrived, like a round chimney of white marble, with holes on both sides, and brazen steeps cross those holes, to climb up easily, by hand and foot, the passage being clane and smooth. From the top of this Cupola, takeing a perfect view of Florence under us▪ and of the whole country about it, with the sight of two thousand Villas or country houses scattered here and there, round about the town, we came down again to view the inside of this Church. It is about three hundred foot long, from the great door to the Choir, and from thence to the end almost two hundred more. The Choir is round, and perpendicularly under the Cupola, being of the same bigness: and upon solemn days when the wax candles are lighted round about it, it looks gloriously: otherwise in winter-time it seems too dark. The High Altar, which stands in this Choir, is plain, like those of ancient Cathedrals, and adorned with a rare statue of a dead Christ in white marble made by the hand of Bandinelli. Looking up from the Choir to the Cupola, you see it painted on the inside with the representation of heaven, hell and Purgatory. The painters were Georgio Vasari and Thaddeo Zucchari. Behind the high Altar are the rare statues of Adam and Eve, by the hand of Bandinelli. near the door of the Sacristy, you may read an inscription, importing how that in this town of Florence had been held a General Ceuncell, where the Reunion of the Latin and Greek Church had been made. The golden Diploma of this union written both in Latin and Greek, and subscribed unto by the hands of the Pope and Cardinals on the one side; and by the Emperor of Constantinople with the Patriarch of Constantinople and the Greek Bishops on the other side; Leandro Alberti in Descript: Jtal. and authenticated by the leaden seal of the Pope, and the golden seal of the said Emperor, is kept in the Archiviis or Registers of Bologna. The Council of Florence. In this Council both the Pope of Rome Eugenius the IV. and Paleologus the Emperor of Constantinople, were present, with the cream of Bishops, both of the Eastern, and Western Churches; and in this Council not only the Procession of the Holy Ghost from the Father and the son was vindicated; but also Purgatory was proved to the Greeks out of their own Greek Fathers, as well as out of the Latin Fathers; and divers other points of coremony and practice were asserted and made good. Unto all which the said Emperor and Patriarch, and the other Greek Bishops (except restless Marcus Ephesinus) subscribed; as did also the Armenians, Ethiopians, Georgians, and jacobites, who all hereupon were admitted to Communion by the Roman Church. In fine, in this Church you see the statues of divers Saints who have been Archbishops of this town; and the Tombs of divers famous men; as of Marsilius Ficinus the Platonic Christian Philosopher: of Dante the Florentin Poet, whose true picture is yet to be seen here in a red gown: of joannes Acutius an English Knight and General anciently of the Pisani, as the old Gothick letters set high upon the wall under his picture on horseback, In his restitution of decayed intelligence told me. Yet Verstegan will not have him to have been called Sr. John Sharpe, but Sr. John Haukwood. But it imports little to me what his name was, See Baker in Edward the 3. seeing he was a brave Englishman, and deserved to have his tomb and inscription here, and his picture among the other worthies in the Duke's Gallery. Here's also in this Church the tomb of Brunelleschi, or Philippus Brunaltius, who made the Cupola of this Church: as also the tomb of Giotto, who made the Campanile, or fine steeple here. In fine here lies also Cimabue the famous painter of his time. Vassari in the lives of Painters, in Cimabue. It was he that first restored painting again which had been lost for many years in Italy, and taught it to Giotto, Gaddi, Taffi and others who carried it on to a great height. 13. The Campanile. Near to the Domo stands the Campanile, or high Steeple of Florence made by Giotto. It's a hundred and fifty braccie, or little yards high, and half as deep in the ground. It's flat at top, and crusted all over with curious little polished marble stones, marble pillars, and statues: so that (as Charles' the V. said of it) if it had a case to cover it withal and hinder it from being seen too frequently, men would flock thither at the taking off of this cover, as to see a wonder. Indeed it's a kind of wonder to see, that in three hundred years' space, not the least part of that steeple (all crusted over with marble) is perished. There are divers good statues on all sides of it, but the best of them all is that of the Zuccone, or bald man, made by Donatello, which he himself esteemed so much, that when he would affirm any thing seriously, he used to say: Alla fe ch'io porto all mio Zuccone: and the same Donatello having finished it, spoke to it in jest, and said: Favella, horsu, favella; o ti venga il ca●asangue: such good conceits have fantastical men of themselves and their own works. The Baptisterio. 14. Near to the Domo also, stands the Baptistery, or round Church of S. john, where all the children of the town are baptised. The brazen doors of it (three in all) are admirable, especially that which looks towards the Great Church, of which Michael Angelo being asked his opinion, answered, that it was so well made, that it might stand at the entrance of Paradise. These doors are all of Brass historied into figures, containing the remarkable histories of both the Testaments. They were the work of brave Laurentius Cion, who spent fifty years in making them: a long time, I confess; but this is it which Apelles called aeternitati pingere, to work things that will outlast brass and be famous for ever. Within this Baptisiery, I saw a statue of S. Mary Magdalen of the hand of Donatello; and it's a rare piece; if you consider Magdalen in her penance. Here's also a neat Tomb of Baltassar Cossa, once called john the XXIIII, but deposed in the Council of Constance, for the peace of the Church. The Tomb of this Baltassar looking something like a cradle, may be called the cradle of the greatness of the Medicean Family. For some writers say, that Cosmus Medici's surnamed afterwards, Pater Patriae, Alfonso Loschi in his Compend Histo. being heir of this Baltassar Cossa (who died at Florence, In the house of john Medici's) With the money that he found belonging to him after his death, did such good deeds to the people, that he won to himself the name of Pater Patriae; and to his Family, that credit, which got it afterwards the supreme command. 15. I cannot omit here to take notice of a little round pillar in the Piazza, near this Baptistery, with the figure of a tree in iron nailed to it, and old words engraven upon it importing, that in this very place stood anciently an Elmetree, which being touched casualy by the hearse of S. Zenobius, as they carried it here in procession, the tree presently hereupon budded forth with green leaves of sweet odour though in the month of january. In memory of which miracle, this pillar was set up in the same place for a memorial. 16. From thence going to the Church of S. Mark belonging to the Dominicans, The Church of S. Mark I saw there the Tomb of S. Antoninus' Archbishop once of this town, and a Friar of this order. The Tomb is under the Altar in a neat Chapel on the left hand, made by john di Bologna. In this Church also I saw a rare picture of S. Mark, made by Bartholomeo deal Frate, it stands full in your sight as you enter into the Church; and a man must be blind not to see it, and dull not to like it. On the left hand, as you enter into the Church is the Tomb of Picus Mirandula commondly called the Phoenix of Princes, with this Epitaph written upon the side of the Wall, joannes iacet hîc Mirandula, caetera norunt Et Tagus & Ganges, forsan & Antipodes. Near this tomb is a fine picture upon an Altar, where two Little Angels are made playing upon Musical instruments. These Angels are held to be the rarest pieces that can be seen in painting. They are of the hand of Bartholomeo del Frate. In the Convent of these Friars I saw often their still house, where they make, and sell, excellent extractions and cordial waters. There is also a neat Library here filled with good books. 17. Turning from hence on the seft hand, I came presently to the Annuntiata, The Annunciata. a place of great devotion. The pictures of Faith and Charity over the Arch in the Antiporto, or open porch built upon pillars, are of the hand of jacomo Pontorno being but yet nineteen years old; which when Michael Angelo first saw, he said: This jacomo if he continue thus, will carry up painting to the skies. Entering into the little court that stands before the Church door, you see it painted round about in Fresco by rare hands. Those pieces that Andrea del Sarto made, are the best, and his head in white marble, is set in the wall. In the cloister, over the door that goes into the Church is seen a rare picture in fresco upon the wall● of the hand of Andrea del Sarto. It represents our B. Lady with our Saviour upon her knee, and S. joseph in a cumbent posture leaning upon a sack full stuffed, and reading in a book. The picture of the Blessed Virgin is admirable for sweetness and majesty. This picture is called La Madonna del Sacco, it got Andrea such credit, that Titian himself preferred it before all the pieces he had ever seen, and used often to say: that it grieved him, that he could not often satiate his sight with the beholding of so rare a picture: and Michael Angelo talking once in Rome with Raphael Urbin concerning painters, said thus to him: There is vn huom●e●tto, a little fellow in Florence (meaning this Andrea) who had he been employed in great matters as thou art, would make thee sweat again. Virtuosos make a great dispute which of those three painters was the most excellent: Raphael Urbin, Michael Angelo, or Andrea del Sarto. But the wisest give every one his particular praise or excellency: Raphael was excellent in colori: Michael Angelo in design: and Andrea in making things seem to be of rilievo, and look as God made them, that is, pulpy and rising up like living flesh. Having thus admired the work of Andrea we entered into the Church of the Annunciata, and there saw the curious silver Altar, behind upon the wall, is kept the miraculous picture of the Annunciation which gives the name of Annunciata to this Church. The little picture of our Saviour, about a foot and a half long, which is seen upon the outside of the Tabernacle, is of the foresaid Andrea's hand, & much esteemed. In this Church lieth buried Baccio Bandinelli a famous Sculptor, in a curious marble tomb, with his own, and his wife's picture, engraven in marble by his own hand. Behind the Choir lies buried joannes di Bologna, a famous Sculptor also, as his several works in Florence show him to have been; as the Rapt of the Sabins, Before the old palace. The Centaur in the streets. The Chapel of S. Antoninus in S. Marks Church. This Chapel in the Annunciata here; and the golden horse and man spoken of above in the Duke's Armoury, do wittness. 18. From hence having first seen the Statue of the Great Duke Ferdinand on horseback in brass, which stands in the piazza before the Annunciata, I went to the Church of the Franciscans, called Santa Croce. Sancta Croce. This Church is of a large bulk and height, but somewhat too dark. The side Altars are many, and cheeked with round pillars, and adorned with excellent pictures. The pulpit would become A chrysostom, or A Chrysologue: It's of white marble, in which are graven the most notable actions of S. Francis in a basso rilievo. I never beheld it, but I found some new graces in it. Somewhat behind it, near to a little door, is the Tomb of Michael Angelo, the Trismegist of Italy, being the greatest Painter, the greatest Sculptor, the greatest Architect of his time. Hence over his tomb, and under his picture, are placed three women in white marble, representing Architecture, Painting, and Sculpture, holding in their hands the several instruments belonging to these professions. If you ask me whether of the two, Painting, or Sculpture, is to be preferred, though a blind man being chosen judge once of this question, when he was given to understand that in the smooth painting there were head, arms, legs, hands and feet, as well as in the bulky statue which he had felt, judged presently for painting; yet Michael Angelo himself preferred Sculpture before painting, as the body is to be preferred before the superficies of a body. But to return again to the Tomb of this great artist, I found some words upon the tombstone, but those so dull and hard to be read in that dark corner, that one in the company chose rather to make him a new epitaph, then read that which is written there: and it was this: Cur indignemur mortales morte perire? Ecce, stupor mundi! hîc Angelus ipso perit. And I think the modern Roman was of the same mind too, when he chose also to make him this Epitaph: Roma mihi mortem tribuit, Florentia vitam. Nemo aliis vellet nasci, & obire, locis. In the midst of this Church I found buried an English Bishop called Catrick, who had been Ambassador here from England, and likely in the time of the Council of Florence. His arms were three cats argent in a sable field. In fine, at the very end of this Church, on the left hand, stands a neat chapel with a painted Cupola, belonging to the family of the Nicolini, in which Chapel there are excellent statues and pictures. 19 The Abbey. Not far from hence stands the Abbadia, an Abbey of Benedictin Monks. In the Church is the tomb of the Founder of this Abbey a Germane nobleman called Conte Hugo, who commanded Toscany under the Emperor Otho the III. The occasion of building this Monastery and many others by this Hugo, is too long to tell, and perchance would not find belief every where. It's told publicly every year upon S. Thomas his day in high Mass time here, by some one or other of the chief wits of the Academy of the Crusca; and he that's curious to know it, may hear it there, as I did, with great satisfaction. S. Maria Novella. 20. From thence I went to the Church of Santa Maria Novella belonging to the Dominicans. Here it is, that the Council of Florence, spoken of above, was held. There are many good pictures in this Church, as also divers neat tombs of holy men and women, and others: among which that of joseph Patriarch of Constantinople, who had been the blessed occasion and instrument of reduceing the Greek Church to the right faith again, is remarkable. It's on the right side of the Church. The statue of justice. 21. Returning from hence along the river side, we came to the high pillar with the Statue of justice in porphyry upon it. It was erected here, because it was in this very place where Cosmus the great, heard the news of the reduction of Sienna. A witty nobleman seeing this statue of justice upon so high a pillar, said that justice here was too high place-ed, for poor men to arrive to it. An other observed, that justice there turns her back to the Courts of justice, which stand not far from thence. 22. Having thus visited the chief things in the town, I visited some places out of the town; and chiefly, the Poggio Jmperiale, Poggio Imperialle. a Villa belonging to the Great Duchess, and about a good mile distant from the town. In this house I saw rare pictures, and great store of them, the house being furnished with nothing else. In one gallery are the true pictures of divers late Princes of the house of Austria, of the house of Medici's, and of other Princes their Allies. In other rooms we saw a world of rare pictures, as the Venus of Titian, though I think it be but a copy: the admirable S. Jerome of Alberto Dureo: a Magdalen of Raphael's hand: a S. john Baptist of Caravagios hand: an Adam and Eve of Alberto Dureo: the Piety of Pietro Perugino, that is, the picture of our Blessed Lady with our Saviour dead upon her knee; S. john Evangelist and three other persons standing, or kneeling by, with weeping faces and most sad looks; it's one of the most moving pieces that I ever beheld. Then the picture of the Assumption of our Lady in the Chapel, of the hand of Andrea del Sarto; with a world of other most exquisite pictures. The little neat Oratory in this house, called the Oratory of the Great Duchess, curiously inlaid into flowers by polished stones of divers colours; that is, a whole closet of shineing marble inlaid into flowers, is the neatest little room that ever I saw. In fine the little Grotte, and the Statue of Adonis made by the hand of Michael Angelo are much esteemed. Pratolino. 23. An other day we went to Pratolino a Villa of the Great Duke, some six mills distant from Florence. Here we saw in the garden, excellent Grotts, Fountains, water works, Shady walks, groves and the like, all upon the side of a hill. Here you have the Grotte of Cupid with the wetting stools, upon which sitting down, a great spout of water comes full in your face. The Fountain of the Tritons overtakes you so too, and washeth you sound. Then being led about this garden where there are store of fountains under the Laurel trees, we were carried back to the grottes that are under the stairs, and saw there the several Givochi d'aqua: as that of Pan striking up a melodious tune upon his mouth-organ at the sight of his Mistress, appearing over against him: that where the Angel carries a trumpet to his mouth, and soundeth it; and where the country clown offers a dish of water to a serpent, who dinks of it, and lifteth up his head when he hath drunk: that of the mill which seems to break and grind olives: the paper mill: the man with the grinding stone: the Saracens head gapeing and spewing out water: the grotte of Galatea who comes out of a door in a sea chariot with two nymphs, and saileth a while upon the water, and so returns again in at the same door: the curious round table capable of twelve or fifteen men, with a curious fountain playing constantly in the midst of it, and places between every trencher, or person, for every man to set his bottle of wine in cold water: the Samaritan woman coming out of her house with her buckets to fetch water at the fountain, and having filled her buckets, returns back again the same way: in the mean time you see smiths thumping; birds chirping in trees; mills grinding: and all this is done by water, which sets these little inventions a work and make them move as it were of themselves: in the mean time an organ plays to you while you dine there in Fresco at that table, if you have meat. Then the neat bathing place: the pillar of petrifyed water: and lastly the great Pond and Grotta before the house, with the huge giant stooping to catch at a rock, to throw it at heaven: This giant is so big, that within the very thigh of him, Lampeggio. is a great grotte of water, called the Grot of Thotis and the shell fishes, all spouting out water. 24. I went also to Lampeggio a Villa some five miles distant from Florence, belonging to Prince Mathias. It's curiously adorned with pictures, especially battles of the hand of Tempesta. Here I saw a curious cabinet of Coral and enameled work. The fine Givoco di Mecha, or Turkish play. The curious glasses; & little Armoury. 25. The stable●. Returning to the town again, we saw the Great Duke's stables full of excellent well managed horses. 26. The Wild beasts. Near to the stables stands the seraglio where the wild beasts are kept, which they make fight often against one another. Here I saw Lions, Leopards, Tigers, Bears, Wolveses, wild boars and foxes, all which they can let out severally at the doors of their several denns, into a fair court to fight, and when they have done, they can bring them back again into their denns by a fearful machine of wood made like a great Green Dragon, which à man within it rowles upon weeles; and holding out two lighted torches at the eyes of it, frights the fiercest beast thereby into his den. The Prince and the Court in the mean time, standing high above may see the combats of these wild beasts with ease, In the Cronology of Petrus Romualdus to 1. pag. 15. and without danger. I have read, that a Lion here one escapeing out of this place by chance, and running up and down the streets, met at last (all others flying into houses) a little child, who had neither fear nor wit enough to retire; and seized upon him. The mother of the child hearing in what case he was, ran out presently, and casting herself upon her knees with tears in her eyes, and humble postures of supplication, she moved so the Lion to pity, that he rendered her the child without hurting it, or the mother of it. 27. I saw also here divers Palaces of noblemen upon occasion of their Festine. For it is the custom here in winter, to invite the chief Ladies of the town (married women only) to come to play at cards in winter evenings for three or four hours' space; and this one night in one palace, another night in another palace. Thither the Ladies go, and find the house open to all comers and goers both Ladies and gentlemen, that are of any garb. In every chamber the doors are set open, and for the most part you shall see eight, or ten chambers on a floor, going out of one an other, with a squar table holding eight persons, as many chairs, two silver candlesticks with wax lights in them, and store of lights round about the room. At the hour appointed, company being come, they sit down to play, a Cavalier sitting between every Lady, and all the women As fine in clothes and jewels, as if they were going to a Ball. The doors of all these rooms being open, the light great, the women glittering, and all glorious, you would take these palaces to be the enchanted Palaces of the Old King of the Mountains. Any gentleman may come into these palaces and stand behind the gamesters, and see both how modestly they play, and how little they play for. In the mean time there's a side chamber always open for gentlemen to go in to, and refresh themselves with wine standing in snow, or with limonade, or some such cooling drinks, which are also offered to the Ladies. In a great room bellow, at the entrance of the palace, there is a long table for gamesters that love to play deep, that is, that love to play only for money. Their Sports. The Florentines enjoying by the goodness and wisdom of their excellent Princ, the fruits of peace, have many other recreations, where the people pass their time cheerfully and think not of rebellion by muttering in corners. For this reason, both in winter, and summer, they have their several divertisments. In winter their Givoco di Calcio (a play something like our football, Jl Givoco di Calcio. but that they play with their hands▪) every night from the Epiphany till Lent, with their Principi di Calcio. This being a thing particular to Florence, deserves to be described. The two factions of the Calcio, the Red, and the Green, choose ecih of them a Prince, some young Cavalier of a good purse. These Princes being chosen, choose a world of Officers, and lodge, for the time, in some great palace; where they keep their courts, receive Ambassadors from one another, and give them public audience in state, send post to one another, complain of one another's subjects, & take prisoners from one another; hear their counsellors one after another, disswadeing from, or perswadeing to war; give orders for settling their affairs at home, hear the complaints of their subjects, jeer their enemy Princes in embassyes; and at last resolve to, fight, with proclaiming war. Dureing these serious treatyes which last for many nights the Secretaryes of state (two prime wits) read before their several Prince's bills for regulating and reforming the abuses of their subjects; and read openly petitions and secret advices: in all which they jeer a world of people in the town, and show prodigious wit. In fine, having spunn out thus the time till near Carnavale, or shrovetide, the two Princes resolve on a battle at Calcio, to be fought in the Piazza of Santa Croce, before the Great Duke and Court. Upon the day appointed, the two Princes of the Calcio come to the place in a most stately Cavalcata with all the young noblemen and gentlemen of the town, upon the best horses they can find, with scarves, red, or green, about their Arms. Having made their several Cavalcatas before the Great Duke's throne or scaffold, they light from their horses, and enter into the lists with trumpets sounding before them, and accompanied with a stately train, and with their combatants in their several liveryes. Having ranked themselves a pretty distance one from the other, their standard bearers at sound of trumpet, carry both at once, their standards to the foot of the Great Duke's scaffold. This done, the Ball, or balon is thrown up in the midst between them, and to it they go with great nimbleness, sleight, and discretion; and sometimes they fall to it in deed and cuff handsomely: but upon pain of death, no man must resent afterwards out of the lists, what ever happened here; but all animosities arriseing here, end here too. At last, that side which throws, or strikes the balon over the rails of the other side, wins the day, and runs to the standards, which they carry away till night, at what time the conquering Prince enterteins them at a Festino di Ballo at Court, made to some Lady; and where all his chief Officers and combatants dance alone with the Ladies at the Ball, none else being permitted to dance with them that night. Besides these passtimes, Other Pastimes. they have once a week, danceing at the Court from twelfth day till Lent, at which Balls, all the Ladies of the town are invited, to the number sometimes of two hundred, and these all married women, and all invited by a particular ticket. Then their several Operas, or musical Drammata acted and sung with rare cost and art. Lastly their public running at the ring, or at the facchin, for a piece of plate. And in summer, they have their several danceing days, and their frequent Corsi di Palio upon certain known days & for known prizes, and all before the good Prince, who countenanceth all these sports with his presence, thinking wisely, that there's less hurt in puplick mirth, then in private mutinies: The Court. Having said thus much of Florence, I will now say something of the Court, the Government, strength, Gentry, Riches, Interest, Language, and Learned men of this town. For the Court it's clearly one of the best of Italy. Great riches make it look plump, and give it an excellent en bon point. The noble Palace the Prince, his Title of Serenissimo, his Train and Retinue of noble Officers and gentlemen, his store of Pages, Palfreniers, Guards of Swissers with halberds, his Troop of horse waiting upon him, make this Court appear splendid. The Duke himself also who makes this Court, The Great Duke. makes it a fine Court. His extraordinary Civility to strangers, made us think ourselves at home there. He is now above fifty, and hath a Austrian look and lip, which his mother Magdalena of Austria Sister to the Emperor Ferdinand the II. lent him. He admits willingly of the visits of strangers, if they be men of condition; and he receives them in the midst of his audience chamber standing; and will not discourse with them, till they be covered too. It's impossible to depart from him disgusted, because he pays your visit with as much wit as civility: and having entertained you in his chamber with wise discourse, he will entertain you in your own chamber too with a regalo of dainty meats, and wines, which he will be sure to send you. The Great Duchess too is an other main pillar of this Court. The Great Duchess She is of the house of the Duke of Urbin, once a Sovereign Prince in Italy, but now extinct in her Father who was the last Duke: and she had been sovereign of that Duchy, had she been of the Sovereign sex: but what nature refused her in sex, it hath given her in beauty, and so made her a greater sovereign, even of Florence. In a word, Florence the Fair, was never so fair, as was the fair Duchess of Florence when I saw her first. Of her the Great Duke hath two sons. Cosmus the Prince of Toscane hath married one of the Daughters of the late Duke of Orlians. He is a great Traveller and hath visited most of the Prince's courts of Christendom. The name of this family is Medici's; a family which heah given to the Church four Popes, and to France two Queens. This family is ancient, and came first out of Athens. It was always considerable dureing the Republic of Florence, The Medicean Family. but far more since it hath got the start of all the other families to far, as to become their Sovereign. The beginning of the greatness of this family came from Cosmus Medici's surnamed Pater Patriae. See Alfonso Loschi in his compendi. Histor. This man being very rich and of a liberal mind, spent four hundred thousand crowns in public and private buildings, and one hundred thousand crowns more in loan monies to the poor citizens. These generous actions which should have got him the love of all men, purchased him the hatred of some of the great ones, who accuseing him of affecting Sovereignty, raised a strong faction against him. The heads of this faction where Rinaldo Albizzi, Pala Strozzi, Ridolfo Peruzzi, and Nicolo Barbadori. These men corrupting the suffrages of the Senate, caused Cosmus to be clapped up, with an intention to take away his life. Cosmus in prison, fearing poison, abstained from meats four days together, and died almost for fear of being killed: At last he was rescued from this melancholy humour by his honest keeper; who gave him such assurances, that he should not be poisoned, that he took meat again, and kept in his vital breath which was almost come to his lips. Then his keeper (not content to be half courterous) having recovered his body, strove to recover his mind too, which was sore spent with fears and melancholy; and for this purpose, brought unto him the buffoon of Bernardo Guadagni then Confaloniero, The chief Magistrate of the Republic, who with his witty jests, so cheered him up with mirth, that he began not only to think of living again, but also of getting out from thence, that he might live long. To this end he works with the buffoon to carry a promise in writing from him to the Confaloniero, of 1000 crowns of gold, upon condition he would free him. The buffoon undertakes it, and money takes with the Confaloniero, who under pretence of examining the cause to put him to death, finds him only worthy of bamnishment; to which he condemns him; and the place of his banishment was Venice. This was it that he desired. For being at Venice, he wrought so well by Friends with the people, that loved him, that he was restored again to his country, and got the title of Pater Patriae by a public decree. By this title his family grew into that esteem, that it overtopped the rest, and in time wrought itself into Sovereignty. For the Government of Florence, it is now Monarchical, and despotical, The Government. the Great Dukes will being absolute; all great businesses passing through his knowledge and liking: so that he wants nothing of a King, but the name; and that too he almost hath under the name of Great Duke. As for the Strength of this State; The strength. it hath 20 Episcopal cities; 500 little walled towns; strong Forts on the confines: and can make an army of forty thousand foot, three thousand horse, twelve Galleys, two Galleasses, two Galleonies, and twenty ships of war. For the Gentry, it is a Gentry died in grain, that is, it's both witty, and rich. The subtle air of this country, and the Academy of the Crusca have sharpened them into much wit: and their good husbandry, The Gentry of Florence. and underhand traffic hath put them notably into purse. For they think it no disgrace to have a banco at home, and meet daily at the exchange about traffic and trayding; while their wife's Lady it in coach with their handsome liveries. This makes them hold up their nobility by the chin, and not only preserves their families from sinking; but rather makes them swim in a full sea of honour: they being enabled thereby to buy great offices for their children in other courts, whereby they often make them mount to the highest dignities: when they are there, no man reproaches unto them the way they took to come thither, whether by water, or Land; by traffic, or by the sword; by the schoole-booke, or count-book. If the French gentry would follow this way, they might have shoes and stockings for their children (which some of them want in the country) where with to keep their noble blood warm in winter. For the Riches of this Prince, Riches. they are about a million and a half of Piastri, or crowns. These are his annual revenues; besides his jewels; forfeitures; and his Datij: which last, are of vast profit to him. The Interest of this Prince is much Austrian, Interest. and consequently Spanish: yet not so far, as to break with France, to which he opens his ports and passages for his own sake. He loves to have no war in Italy, because he hath something to lose: and though he love to have the Pope his friend, yet he cares not for having any of his subject's Pope. A Pope of his family, Clement the VII, having made him what he is, he is afraid a Pope of some other Florentin family would strive to make him what he was. As for the Language of Florence its pure, but in their books, The Language not in their mouths: They do so choke it in the throat, that it's almost quite drowned there; nor doth it recover itself again till it come to Rome, where Lingua Toscana in bocca Romana is a most sweet language. The Academy of the Crusca hath much contributed to the enriching of this language with choice words. The Academy of Wits. The rich Dictionary made by this famous company, and called from them, the Crusca, was forty years in compileing, but it will be in vogue as long as men shall speak Italian. The learned men. Finally, for the Learned men of of this town in later times, they are these; Marsilius Ficinus the Christian Platonic; Dante and Petrarck in Poëtry: Guicciardin in History: Poggio in raillery: Vesp●cius in Geography: Accursius in law: Michael Angelo in painting: joannes Casa in practical morality: Naclantus in divinity: Galileo in Astronomy: Doni, Luigi, Alemanni, and others in belle lettere. He that desires to know the History of Florence, The Historians. let him read Giovanne Villani, Matthaeo Villani, Scipione Ammirato, and the life of Gran Cosimo. Having thus seen fair Florence, we desired to see Leghorn, and make an excursive journey by Pistoia, Pistoia. Lucca, and Pisa. Pistoia is an ancient town in a plain country. Of this town is Clement the IX, this present Pope, of the ancient Family of Rospigliosi: and that is all I can say of it. For it looks baldly of it, either out of pure old age, else by reason of our neighbourhood to Florence, which hath fleeced it, or which I rather think, by reason of its civil factions heretofore, which almost ruined it quite. Lucca is a pretty little Commonwealth, Lucca. and yet it sleeps quietly within the bosom of the Great Dukes State. But that State may wisely fear none, which no State fears; and the great Duke is unwilling to measure his sword, or take up the cudgels against little Lucca, lest the world should cry shame upon him, and bid him meddle with his match. This little Republic looked in my eye, It's Government. like a perfect map of old Rome▪ in its beginning. It's Governed by a Confaloniero and the gentry. The great Counsel consists of 160 citizens who are changed every year. It's under though Emperor's protection; and it hath about thirty thousand souls in it. Approaching unto it, it looked like a pure low-countrieses town, with its brick walls, large ramparts set round with trees, and deep moats round about the walls. It hath eleven bastions, It's strength. well guarded by the townsmen, and well furnished with Cannons of a large size. The town is three miles in compass; it hath thirty thousand muskets, or half muskets in its Arsenal, eight thousand pikes, two thousand breast pieces of musket proof, and store of great artillery. The whole State, for a need, can arm eighteen thousand men of service, Its Revenues. and it hath about five hundred thousand French livres a year. It was in this town that Caesar, Pompey, and Crassus met, and agreed among themselves that all things in Rome should pass as they pleased. The chief things to be seen here are, The Cathedral, called S. Martin's, whose Bishop hath the ensigns of an Archbishop, to wit, the use of the Pallium, and the Cross; and whose Canons in the Choir wear a rochet and Camail, and mitres of silk like Bishops. 2. The town house, or Senate house, where the Confaloniero lives dureing the time of his charge. 2. The Church of S. Frediano belonging to the Canon Regulars, where, in a Chapel on the left hand, is the Tomb of S. Richard King of England, who died here in his pilgrimage to Rome. 4. The Augustins' Church, where is seen a hole where the Earth opened to swallow up a blaspheming gamester. Of this town was Pope Lucius the III. the two famous men of this town, the one for soldiery, the other for learning, were, brave Castrucio, and saints Pagninus a great Hebrician. There are five towns more belonging to Lucca, to wit, Ca-magior, Viareggia, Montignoso, Castilione, and Minucciano. Pisa. From Lucca we went to Pisa, some ten miles off. This was once the head town of a flourishing Republic, and then the Numantia of Florence, and scorning its yoke: but now it croucheth to it. It stands in no very good air, and therefore hath been vexed with divers plagues. The grass in the streets of this University, read me this lecture, and I believed it. Whereupon I resolved to stay here one day only, in which time I saw. 1. The Domo, The Domo. whose Canons officiate in Scarlate like Cardinals. This is a neat Church for structure, and for its three brazen doors historyed with a fine basso rilievo. It's built after la maniera Tedescha, a fashion of building much used in Italy four or five hundred years ago, and brought in by Germans or Tedeschi, saith Vasari. The bending Tower. 2. Near to the Domo stands, (if leaning may be called standing) the bending Tower, so artificialy made, that it seems to be falling, and yet it stands firm: Ruituraque semper, stat (mirum) moles. 3. On the other side of the Domo, is the Campo Santo a great square place cloistered about with a low cloister curiously painted. It● called the Campo Santo, because therein is conserved the Holy earth brought from Jerusalem in 50 Galleys of this Republic, an. 1224. These Galleys were sent by the Republic of Pisa, to succour the Emperor Aenobarbe, in the Holy Land▪ but hearing of his death when they came thither, they returned home again loaden with the earth of the Holy Land, of which they made this Campo Santo. 4. Some good Colleges there are but unfrequented then by reason of a late plague: Some Colleges. none running faster from the plague then scholars, especially when it comes near to the schools. 5. The Library. The public Library is much enriched with the accession of Aldus Manutius his Library. 6. The Physic garden. The garden of Simples may be rare, but we not understanding this herb language: hastened to the house of the Knights of S. Steven. The Knights of S. Stephano. 7. This is the only Order of Knighthood that I perceived in Florence; and it's very common. They wear a red cross of satin upon their cloaks; and profess to fight against the Turks. For this purpose they have here a good house, and maintenance. Their Church is beautified without with a handsome faciata of white marble; and within with Turkish Ensigns and divers Lanterns of capitanesse galleys. In this house the Knights live in common, and are well maintained. In Their Treasury they show you a great buckler all of Pearl and Diamonds, won in a battle against the Turks. Indeed bucklers of Diamonds, do but show our enemies where we are, and what they may hope for by kill us. They have in their Cancellaria, a Catalogue of those Knights who have done notable service against the Turks; which serves for a powerful exhortation to their successors, to do, and die bravely. In fine, these Knights may marry if they will, and live in their own particular houses, but many of them choose celibate, as more convenient for brave soldiers: wives and children being the true impedimenta exercitûs. Heretofore, during the great disorders of the Guelves and the Gibelins, Anno 1282, this town was governed by ugolin a proud man, who ruled here despotically. This man inviteing one day all his friends to a great feast, began in the midst of it to brag, that nothing was wanting to him: yes (said on of his best friends, because on who flattered him not) there's one thing yet wanting to thee, ugolin, to-wit, the Anger of God, which is not far from thee. And it proved true, for presently after, the Gibelins rushing into the palace of ugolin (chief of the Guelves) killed in his sight one of his sons and his nephew, and taking him with two other of his sons and three nephews they shut him up in a strong Tower, and threw the Keys into Arno: where the poor man that braged even now in a feast, died soon after of hunger; having first seen his children and nephews die of hunger in his arms. A rare example to teach proud men, that there's often but one day between a powerful man, and a poor man: between a great Feast, and a great Fast. Here in Pisa were called two Councils, the one 1409. the other 1511. Leghorn. From Pisa we went to Leghorn, (Portus Liburnus in Latin) through a pleasant forest. This is the only haven the Great Duke hath; and the mouth which letteth in that food which fatteneth this State. We stayed not long here, the season pressing us to be gone, and this town, being soon seen. For the town it's but little, yet one of the neatest haven towns a man can see. Heretofore it was not sufferable by reason of the bad air; but since Ferdinan the first built it a new, and dried up the neighbouring Fens (gathering much of the water into a cut channel, which goes from hence to Pisa, and carries great boats) the town is twice as wholesome, and thrice as rich as it was. The things I saw in this town were these. 1. The Mole which shuts up the haven. 2. The Lantern which with seven lights guides in ships in the night, 3. The Haven itself where ships lie safe, and the little haven within that, which serves for a withdrawing room to the great haven, where the Galleys retire themselves. 4. The statue of Ferdinand the first in marble, with the Statues in bronze of four slaves at his feet. These are the 4 slaves that would have stolen away a galley and have rowed here themselves alone; but where taken in their great enterprise. 5. The Greek Church. 6. The Castle. 7. The Tower in the Sea where they keep gunpowder. 8. The jews Synagogue. 9 Two windmills which are rare things in Italy, and therefore must have a place here among the rarities of this town. I found not any Academy of wits here, nor any records of any learned men of this town. All the Latin here is only, Meum, and Tuum, and their wits are exercised here, how to make good bargins, not good Books. Indeed what should the Muses do here amongst the horrible noise of chains, of carts, of bawling Sea men, of clamorous porters, and where the slaves of Barbary are able to fright all learning out of the town with their looks, as all Latin with their Language. Yet I must confess, they study here belle Lettere: for if the true belle Lettere be Letters of exchange, your marchand here, if you present him a Letter of exchange from his correspondent, will read it over, and over again, and study upon it, before he give you the contents of it in money. Having finished this excursive journey, we returned again to Florence; and having rested our horses a day or two, we took a new rise from thence to Rome which seemed to because en us, and whither the main torrent of our curiosity hurried us. Some three miles Beyond Florence we passed under a Monastery of Carthusians seated upon a round hill; whose several celles and little gardens (walled about) branching out on all sides, like several Bastions, made this Monastery look like a spiritual Fort, or devout Citadel. From hence passing through sand: San: Cassiano. Cassiano we arrived at night at Poggibonzi a little town famous for perfumed Tobacco in powder, Poggi Bonzi. which the Italians and Spaniards take far more frequently than we, as needing neither candle nor tinderboxe to light it withal; nor useing any other pipes, than their own noses. From Poggibonzi we came at dinner to Sienna. Sienna. This is the second town of the Florentin State. It was heretofore a powerful Republic commanding threescore miles into the country, and now and then, beating the Florentines: but a last, after much struggling, this wolf received the muzzle, The arms of Sienna, are a Woolf. and Sienna is now the humble servant of Florence. This happened an● 1555. This town is seated in a very wholesome air and soil, and therefore much frequented by strangers. It's called Senae in Latin from the Senones, people of Gaul, who coming into Italy with Brennus, built this town. The streets are all paved with bricks set up edgeway, which makes the town always dry and neat. It's built high and low, with many high towers in it, built anciently in honour of its well deserving citizens who had done some special service in the Republic; and this makes it seen thirty miles off on Rome's side. The people here are very civil, and even sociable too; which together with the good air, the good exercises for gentlemen, the good language, and the great privileges, make many strangers draw bridle here, and summer it at Sienna, the Orleans of Italy. The prime things I saw here were these. The Domo. 1. The Domo, one of the neatest Cathedrals of Italy, though it be built a la maniera Tedescha. It's all of black and white marble within and without. The Fontispice is carved curiously and set thick with statues. Yet it wants a larger piazza before it, to give it its full grace. The inside of this Church is very taking. Under the roof immediately runs a row of white marble-heads of all the Popes till this time. The Pavement is the best in the world; The rare Pavement. and indeed too good to be trodden on; hence they cover a great part of it with boards handsomely laid together, yet easy to be taken up, to show strangers the beauty of it: It's of marble inlaid into pictures, and those very great ones: several great marbles of several colours making the shadows and the lights, and composeing all together such a new kind of Mosaic work, as all men admire, but none dare finish. This work was begun by Duccio Sanese, and afterwards carried on by Domenico Beccafumi, but not finished by him, saith Vasari. They told me here that is was Meccharini, that made this pavement; but I had rather believe Vasari. That part which they uncovered for us, represented the history of Abraham going to sacrifice his son Isaac; and the history of the Maccabees; and the like. I confess, I scarce saw any thing in Italy which pleased me better than this pavement. On the left hand (within the Church) stands the Library painted with a rare Fresco which is yet ravishing and lively after two hundred years: The Library. Indeed the brave actions of Aeneas Silvius (afterwards Pope Pius TWO) which these pictures represent, deserve to be painted by the sun beams. The pictures are of the hand of Pietro Perugino, Raphael's Master: but when all's done, give me books in a Library, not pictures. In the Church you see the statues of Alexander the III, of Pius TWO, of Paulus V, & of Alexander the VII. all Popes, and natives of Sienna. S. Katherine of Sienna. 2. I saw here the several places which S. Katherine of Sienna had made famous by her devotions: as, her Chamber, where she received the holy stigmats, now turned into a Chapel: the Chamber where she lived: with other memorial of her devotions, in the Dominicans Church; where they also show her head, and finger: her body being transferred to Rome, and lying in a little Chapel within the Sacristy of the Dominicans, at the Minerva. 3. Other Rarities. The other things ordinarily shown here, are the great Hospital: the house of Pius TWO, of the family of the Piccolomini: the great Piazza: the pillar with the wolf of brass upon it: the marble Pillar as you come into the town from Florence, with the arms of the Empire and of Portugal upon it; because here it was, that the Emperor met Eleonora of Portugal and married her in presence of Aeneas Silvius then Archbishop here, and afterwards Pope Pius II. I saw here the Academy of wits called gli Intronati: The Academy of Wits. why they should take that ambitious name I know not, unless it be in reference to the saying of à Philosopher, who said, that then finally kingdoms should be happy, when either Philosophers should be chosen Kings, or Kings played the Philosophers. Indeed Aristotle holds that they that are strong of body, are made to serve, and tug at the oar of commands: and they that are strong in wit, are borne by nature to sit at the helm, and command others. 5. This town hath furnished the Church with a General Council of a hundred and thirty Bishops, called by Nicolas the III: with three great Saints, S. Bernardin reformer of the Minorits; S. Katherine the holy Virgin; and Beatus Colombanus Institutor of the Order of the jesuati, a man of great learning and Sanctity: with five good Popes, to wit, Alexander the III of the house of Bandinelli; Pius TWO, of the house of Piccolomini; Paulus V, of the house of Burgesi; and Alander the VII, of the house of Chisi: And in fine, it hath furnished the world with two champions in learning Ambrose Politi (or Catharinus) who wrote learnedly against Luther and Erasmus; and Adriano Politi who wrote against Ignorance by his learned Dictionary. He that would know in particular the history of Sienna, The History. let him read Orlando Malevolto. From Sienna we went to Bon Conuento, Tornieri, San Quirico, inconsiderable places upon the road, and so to Radicofino a strong Castle upon a high hill built by Desiderius King of the Longobards. Radicofino. This is the last place of the Florentin state, but not the least in strength. Dineing here at the Great Duke's Inn at the bottom of the hill, we went to lodge at Aquapendente, which is some 12 miles off, and the first town of the Pope's state. This town stands upon a hill, Aquapedente. from which the waters trickling down softly are said to hang there, and give it the name of Aquapendente. Of late this town is made a Bishop's Seat by the Demolition of Castro, and the remooval of the Bishop's Seat from thence hither, which happened upon this occasion. Castro was a town belonging to the Duke of Parma, Thither Pope Innocent the X. sent a good Bishop to govern that flock; but the Bishop upon his arrival being killed there, the Pope sent Conte Vidman (General then of the Church) with order to demolish Castro; and he himself transfered the Bishop's seat from thence to Aquapendente, and all this according to the Canon law, which ordains, Can. ita nos 25. qu. 2. that that City which kills its Bishop should be deprived of the Bishop's seat ever after. From Aquapendente we came to a little town called San Lorenzo, and not long after, Bolsena. to Bolsena, anciently called Vrbs Volsinensium. Here it was that happened the famous Miracle in confirmation of the Real presence of Christ's body and blood in the Blessed Sacrament, which happened an 1263, and which gave occasion to Pope Vrban the IV to command that the Feast of Corpus Christi should be kept holiday ever after. The Miracle is related by Leandro Alberti the Camden of Italy, and by learned Onuphrius Panuinus in the life of urban the IV. We passed also that morning by the side of the Lake of Bolsena; The Lake of Bolsena in the middle of which is a little Island in which Amalasuinta Queen of the Ostrogoths, a woman of singular parts, was miserably murdered by her nearest kindred. Here's also a little Convent of Capucins. Having passed along this Lake a great while, Bosco Helerno. we entered at last into a wood called anciently Lucus Volsinensium, and now, Bosco Helerno. It was formerly a dangerous passage for Bandits: but now its free from danger, since Sixtus Quintus purged the Ecclesiastical State of that Vermin, by making a Law, that whosoever should bring in the head of a Bandit, should have pardon, impunity, & recompense too of some hundred crowns, where upon the Bandits soon destroyed one another. From this wood we soon came to Montefiascone standing upon a hill. It's a Bishop's Seat, Montefiascone. and famous for excellent Muscatello wine; and this wine is famous for having killed a Dutchman here who drunk too much of it. The story is true, and thus. A Dutchman of condition travelling through Italy, sent his man before him always, with a charge to look out in the Inns were the best Wine was, & there write upon the Wall of the Inn the word, EST, that is to say, Here it is. The servant coming hither a little before his Master, and finding the wine excellently good, wrote upon the Wall EST, EST, EST, signifying thereby the superlative goodness of this wine. The Master arrives, looks for his Man's hand-writing; and finding three ESTS, is over joyed. In he goes, and resolves to lie there; and he did so indeed: for here he lies still; buried first in wine, and then in his grave. For drinking too much of this good wine, he died here, and was buried by his servant in a Church here below the Hill, with this Epitaph upon his Tomb, made by the same servant, Propter EST, EST, EST, herus meus mortuus est. It was here also, that the gallantry of the brave Roman General Camillus appeared very much. For while he was besieging this town, called then P●aliscum, or Phalerii, a treacherous schoolmaster having brought unto him the chief of the young youths of the town, whom he had deceitfully drawn unto the Roman Camp, under pretence of takeing the air a broad: by which means Camillus might have frighted their Parents to an unworthy rendition: the brave Roman who scorned to overcome by any other way than that of Gallantry, caused the school master to be stripped & his hands to be tied behind his back, and to be led into the town again, with the little youths whipping him as he went, till he had brought them home again. This nobleness of Camillus took the town presently, because it took with the townsmen; who admireing the Romans Generosity, submitted willingly to Camillus, who had chosen rather to take towns By this own Valour, then by other men's iniquity: Indeed (as Valerius Maximus saith) it did not become Rome built by the son of Mars, to take towns otherwise then Martially. From Montesiascone we went down the Hill by an easy descent unto Viterbo. Viterbo. This is an Episcopal Seat, standing in a wholesome air, and therefore called Viterbium, as it where, Vita Vrbium. Here are excellent fountains of water, and store of them: but its pity none of them run with good wine, to make a mends for the bad, which are most of them Vini cotti. The two factions here of the Gatti & the Maganesis (these standing for the Ursini, those for the Colonnesi) ruined heretofore Viterbo over & over again. In the Domo there are the tombs of 4 Popes, as also in the Franciscans Church some tombs of Popes, and of S. Rosa: you see the body of that Saint yet entire though buried above 100 years ago. She lies along in her tomb, and is seen by the drawing of a curtain from before her. Here's an Academy of wits called Gli Ostinati, to show perchance, The Academy of Wits. that a man cannot be learned without obstinate labour and pains. Hence the Poet makes his learned man to be one who multum sudavit & alsit: and Persius tells us, that his delight was to grow pale with obstinate night study: Velle suum cuique est etc. At me nocturnis jwat impallescere chartis. About a mile from Viterbo stands a neat Church and Convent called Madonna del Querco, and as far again beyond that, à fine house with a garden of water works and Fountains, worth seeing. From Viterbo (being upon our own horses) we went to see Caprarola a stately House belonging to the Duke of Parma. Caprarola The house is held to be one of the finest in Italy for Architecture. Its stands a little out of the travellers road, but not of his way: for it's much in a man's way to see such a lovely house as this. It stands upon the side of a hill, and from one of the Balconies it shows you Rome some two and thirty miles off. It's built in a Pentagone (if I remember well) without, and round within. The chambers for all that, are square, and well proportioned. The chief of these chambers are painted by the hand of Pietro Orbista, flourishing thus upon the noble actions of Paulus III. Among the other chambers, the whispering chamber is curious: for four men here standing each one in one of the four corners of this great chamber, hear distinctly what any of them whispers in a low tone in his corner, their faces being turned to the wall; and yet those that stand in the midst of the chamber cannot hear it. The other chamber is no less curious where standing in the midst of it, and stamping hard with your foot, those that are without at the door think they hear the cracks or reports of Pistols. The other rooms here also, as the kitchen all of one stone, the low Cave also with the pillar in it, cut likewise out of a rock, and bearing up the whole pavement of the round court which lets light into this Cave by divers round grates of iron, are worth the beholding: Then the Garden upon the Hillside with the great variety of water-works, grottes, and wetting sports, are all curious things. Having walked this garden about, you'll deserve after so much water, a little wine, which will not be wanting to you from the rare cellar lying under the great Terrasse before the house: and perchance you'll think the wineworks here as fine as the water-works. From Caprarola we fell into our way again at Monterosa, Monterosa. from whence passing by Bacano, and the Hosteria del Storto, we came at night to Rome. All the way from Monterosa to Rome almost, belonged anciently to the Veientes (so called, saith Berosus, from their carrying about with them in carts, all their goods) Near to Bacan is a lake out of which runs the river Varca, Varca. anciently called Cremera, near unto which the Veientes killed in one battle, three hundred Fabii, that is, the whole family of the Fabii (who had vowed themselves to death for the commonwealths service) except one little boy not able to bear arms, from whom Fabius Maximus, The terror of Hannibal, and Rome's buckler descended. Upon this road also stood anciently the town Veii, Veii. a town which held out ten sommers against the Romans, and stood in need of no less man than Camillus to take it. This town was once so great, that Rome being destroyed almost by the Gauls, the Senators held a consultation in the Comitium, whether they should retire to Veii, and leave Rome quite, or rebuild again Rome's walls: but during this consultation, the troops returning out of garrison arrived by chance into the Comitium, where the Centurion entering, and not thinking the Senators had been there, cried out to the Standardbearer, Valer. Max. l. 1. c. 5. Signifer Statue signum, hic optime manebimus: which words the Senators hearing, cried out to one an other; Accipimus omen; and presently laid aside all further thought of retireing to Veii. Some twelve miles before we came to Rome, we saw the Cupola of S. Peter's Church, and were as glad to see it a far off, as the weary Troyans' in Aeneas his company, were glad to see Italy after so much wandering. Some few hours after, having passed by an old tomb, which some call Nero's Tomb, and over the Ponte Molo (of which more in my 2. part) we entered into Rome by the Via Flaminea, and Porta del Populo. The end of the First Part. THE VOYAGE OF ITALY: OR A COMPLETE JOURNEY THROUGH ITALY. THE SECOND PART WITH THE CHARACTERS OF THE People, and the description of the chief Towns, Churches, Monasteries, Tombs, Libraries, Palaces, Villas, Gardens, Pictures, Statues, Antiquities: AS ALSO OF THE INTEREST, Government, Riches, Force, etc. of all the Princes. By RICHARD LASSELS Gent. Opus posthumum: Corrected & set forth by his old friend and fellow Traveller S. W. PRINTED AT PARIS By VINCENT DV MOUTIER, M.DC.LXX. THE SECOND PART OF THE VOYAGE OF ITALY. BEING arrived at Rome, we lodged in an Inn for three, or four days, till we had found out, and furnished, a house to our satisfaction. That done I began presently my Inquest, and made Hue and Cry after every little thing which time seemed to have robbed us of. But as we approach not to great persons in Italy without informing ourselves first of their titles; that we may know how to style them: so before. I bring my Reader acquainted with Rome, I think it not a miss to tell him how this great City is commonly called. And although Rome were anciently styled the Head, and Mistress of the world; an Earthly Goddess; The Eternal City; The Compendium of the World; The Common Mother, and Nurse of all Virtues; (while she was yet Heathen;) Yet since her Ladyship was Baptised and became Christian (though she have had great Eulogies made of her by the Holy Fathers,) I find no Title so honourable to her as that of Roma la Santa, How Rome is styled. Rome the Holy; which is given her by the Common Proverb; and common Proverbs are nothing else but the observation of common Sense: For whereas the other Cities of Italy are Proverbially called either Fair, Gentile, Rich, Proud, Fat, or Great; as Florence, Naples, Venice, Genua, Bologna, Milan; Rome only is styled the Holy: Roma la Santa. and this deservedly, for many reasons. First, For being the Seat of Christ's Vicar upon Earth, S. Peter and his Successors, to the number of 240 and odd Popes. 2. For having been watered at the roots by the preaching and blood of the two glorious Apostles S. Peter and S. Paul. Which made S. Leo, speaking to Rome of these two great Apostles, Serm. 1. de Natal. Apost. Petri Paul. make her this Apostrophe. Hi sunt qui te ad hanc gloriam provexerunt, ut gens sancta, populus electus, civitas Sacerdotalis & Regia, per sacram Beati Petri sedem caput orbis effecta, latius praesideres religione divina quam dominatione terrena. 3. For having been looked upon in all ages, as the Centre of Catholic Communion: and the place where the Matrix and Radix Ecclesia, the Mother Church and the Radical Church (as S. Cyprian calls her) did flourish always. 4. For having been washed and purged in the blood of so many thousand Martyrs in the primitive times, which even baptised Rome a new, and made it be called by Holy Fathers Nona Zion: a New Zion. 5. For having so many Saints bodies lying in its Churches; and so many Churches within its precincts, which are above there hundred in all. 6. For having been the happy occasion of converting most of the Nations of Europe, and many others out of Europe, unto the faith of Christ, by Prachers sent from thenc. 7. For having been the Depositary (as S. Irenaeus calls her) of the Holy Apostolical Traditions and doctrine, which have always been conserved in her Church. 8. For having always conserved the Symbol of the creed inviolably (saith S. Jerome) and for never having run in a by-channel of error. Besides these foresaid reasons, Rome may deservedly be called Holy, for the many & singular acts of Charity which are done there daily more than in any other place. Great Charityes in Rome. Charity is the Queen of Virtues; and if ever I saw this Queen in her throne, it was in Rome. For there I saw no evil, either of body, or mind, but it had its remedy, if curable; at least its comforts if incurable. For the first, to wit, Evils of body, remedies for evils of the body. it hath is Hospitals, and those many, and many of those are Hospitals in folio. Besides no Pilgrim comes to Rome, but he finds Rome, as Adam did Paradise, with the table covered, and bed made ready for him. Poor young girls find portions either for husbands or nunneries, according to their choice; Infants whom cruel & unlawful mothers, like wolves, expose to death, Rome receives to life; Meretrices lupas vocabant unde Luparia. Augustin. de Civit. Deil. 18. c. 21. and thinks it but a suitable Antipelargesis to nourish wolves children, seeing a she wolf nourished her Founder being exposed by men. Fool's too and Madmen, so much the more miserable, as not being so much as sensible of their condition (for saepe calamitatis solatium est nosse sortem suam) have here those that take care of them. Poor men find Hospitals when they are sick; Quint. Curt. and gentlemen, whom nature hath not exempted from common miseries, Rome exempts from common Hospitals; and not being able to give them better health, she gives them at least better accommodation in their sickness. Here you shall find an Apothecary's shop, founded by Cardinal Francis Barberin with an yearly revenue of twelve thousand crowns, and this for ever; to furnish the poor with physic gratis. Here you shall find the Hospital of the Holy Trinity which in the Jubily year of Clement the VIII, is found to have treated at table in one day fifteen thousand pilgrims: and in the whole year five hundred thousand. The last jubily year 1650, I myself was present one day, when the said Hospital treated nine thousand Pilgrims that day: the Pope himself (Jnnocent the Tenth) and many of the Cardinals having been there to wash the feet of the pilgrims, Almost every nation hath an Hospital in Rome. and to serve them at table. Add to this, that every nation hath here its several Hospital and Refuge, with Church and Churchmen to serve it. As the English College, once an Hospital for the English: That of the Anima, for the Germans: That of the S. Lewis, for the French: That of S. jacomo, for the Spaniads: That of S. Antony of Milan, for the Portuguesis: That of S. julian for the Flemings: That of S. Ambrose for the Lombard's: That of S. Iuo for the Britons: That of S. Jerome for the Illyrians: That of S. Marie Egyptiaca for the Armenians: That of S. Stephano for the Hungarians: That of S. Stanislaus for the Polonians. Besides a world of others. Nay almost every corporation or body of artisans have their Hospital among themselves, which they maintain. In the Church of the 12 Apost. they choose yearly 12 noblemen & one Prelate who is called their Prior: These go into every corner of Rome to seek out poor men who are ashamed to beg, & yet are in great want. These bashful poor men put their names into a coffer well locked up and standing in a public place, by which means these charitable noblemen find them out and relieve them. What shall I say of the public charity of the Pope himself well known to all? Besides a world of private charities which he gives by his Secreto Limosini●ro to those that are ashamed to beg publicly. The like do many Cardinals by their own hands; and in that high measure, that Cardinal Montalto (to name no more) is found by his books of Accounts, to have given away above a hundred and seven thousand crowns to the poor. Of which pious Cardinal I cannot omit to write this following story, as I have learned it from very good relation. An ingenious piece of Charity. A poor widow of Rome mother of one only daughter both young and handsome, got her living honestly by her own, and her daughter's labour; and rubbed out poorly, but yet honestly: Now it happened, that this widow falling sick, and her daugther having enough to do to tend her, their wrork went on so faintly, and their gains came in so slowly, that at her recovery▪ she found her purse as much spent, as her person. Whereupon being called on for the quarter rend of her chamber, and not knowing what to do, she was advised by her Confessarius to go to Cardinal Montalto (who gave public audienc thric a week to all the poor in Rome) and to beg as much of him, as would pay her little debt. Pressed therefore by her great necessity, & emboldened by the fame of the charity of this good Cardinal, she entered the palace, and found him in his great hall, giving care and alms to all those that could give him a good account of their wants. In her turn she, and her young daughter approached unto him sitting at his table's end; and expresing modesty her wants caused by her three months' sickness, she humbly besought his Eminence, to give her five crowns for to pay the rent of her chamber, and pacify her Landlord who otherwise threatened to put her out of doors. The Cardinal seeing as much modesty in her looks as sickness in her countenance; and liking well, that she did not go about to fright him into charity, by urgeing the danger of being forced one day to expose her daughter to lewd courses (a common Rhetorical figure of beggar's in all country's) wrote down in a little paper, 50 crowns to be given to her; and folding up the paper, he bid her carry it to his servant below at the entrance of the palace, who kept the Cardinal's bills and paid the contents of them. She did so with humble prayers of thankfulness; and the servant upon sight of the paper, presently threw her out 50 crowns, and bid her make an acquittance for it. The poor woman seeing 50 crowns counted out for her who had asked but 5; and fearing least the servant upon sight of her handsome daughter, might have done this by way of bribery, told him smartly, that though she were poor, yet she was honest, and that she scorned to go by one corruption to an other. The honest servant civility replied, that he understood not her words: nor I your deeds, said she, I asked the Cardinal 5 crowns, he granted me my request, and why then do you offer me 50 crowns? The honest servant, to show his innocency, shows his master's hand writing importing 50 crowns. Then your master's hand, said she, for haste, out shot his intentions: I asked him for 5 crowns, and more in conscience I cannot take. The servant, though he knew his master's generosity, yet to take all scruple from the poor woman, locked up his money and papers, and desired the poor woman to go up with him to the Cardinal again, to clear this doubt. The Cardinal hearing from his servant the whole passage and that the poor woman was afraid his hand had been mistaken in writing 50 crowns instead of 5; 'tis true, said he, my hand was mistaken indeed; and calling for his pen again, as if he would have corrected the cipher which made the bill 50, he put in an other cipher, and so made it 500 crowns; reading it now a loud to his servant and the poor woman; commanding her to bestow her daughter with that money; and if it where not enough, to come again to him, and he would make it up. A true Roman Charity. Remedies for evils of the mind. As for those Charityes which concern the mind, if a Great King of Egypt wrote over his Library door, Osymunduas: apud Herodot. Medicina Animi, Physic for the mind: here in Rome I find store of such Physic in Libraries, Colleges, Monasteries, and devout companies. And first for Libraries; you shall find here (beside the Libraries of every Religious house) the incomparable Library of the Vatican: Public Libraries (of which more below) those also of Cardinal Barberin; of the Duke of Altemps; that of the Sapienza; and that of the Augustin●; the last two being open to all men every day, with a courteous gentleman to reach you any book, and a learned Manuscript in folio adressing you to the authors that treat of any subject you desire to be informed of, which affords great help to the painful student. Then the Colleges and Seminaries of almost all nations where youths are both fed and bred up in learning for nothing. Colleges. Add to this, the Variety of Monasteries and Conuents, Monasteries. both of men and women, where they may hide themselves securely donectranseat iniquitas. Then the taking away of young girls, Houses for young girls. at ten or twelve years old, from their poor suspected mothers; and the bringing them up virtuously under careful matrons of known Virtue, till they either choose the Nuptial Flammeum, or the sacred Velum. Then the Remedies for ill married women, Remedies for ill married women. whose unadvised choice (marriages being often made for Interest) or incompatible humours force to a corporal separation▪ and lest such unfortunate women should either live incontinently indeed, or give suspicion of it they are provided here with a house where they live retiredly under Lock and Key, till they either reconcile themselves again to their husbands; or upon just occasions, leave them for ever. Over the door of this house is written, Per le donne mal maritate, The Convent of Penitents. Then the Convent of Penitent whores (that none may perish in Rome who have a mind to be saved) called Sancta Maria Magdalena in Corso; where many of those poor Magdalene's have led such penitential lives (as the bloody walls of their Cells, caused by their frequent disciplining, showed to all Rome in a conflagration of that monastery) that Paulus Quintus himself being informed of it, would needs be carried thither, to see those bloody chambers from the street; and having seen them, wept for joy; and I can scarce hold from cryeing out: O foelix culpa! What shall I say of the Congregregation of Advocates and Attorneiss, Charity of Lawyers in Rome. instituted in Rome, where they meet once a week to examine poor men's law suits; and either dehort them from proceeding in bad causes; or prosecute good causes for them at the cost of this Congregation? What shall I say of several pious Clergy men (especially the good Priests of the Oratory, Broken-friend-setters. happy in this employment, who make it their task to reconcile disagreeing families, and with great zeal and piety exhort first the one, than the other of the parties, intervene between them, speak well of the one to the other, clear and take away jealous misunderstandings, and in fine, piece again broken neighbours? What shall I say of the four Sermons daily in the Chiesa nova by the most learned and good Priest of the Oratory, Four Sermons daily in one place in Rome. who being most of them learned men, as Baronius, Bosius, justinianus, Renaldus &c and able to fly high, yet in their sermons stoop to a low pitch, and a popular facile way, which aims rather at conversion, than ostentation; and doth great good, though it make little noise? Dominus in le●i aura. Weekly sermons to the jews. What shall I say of the weekly sermon to the jews upon Saturday; where they are bound to be present to the number of three hundred, and where the Pope entertains a learned Preacher to convince them out of their own scriptures; and those that are converted, are provided for in the Hospital of the Catechumen, till they be throughly instructed? I have seen divers of them baptised. The scholae Pi●. What shall I say of the Scholae piae in Rome, a company of good Religious men, who look like jesuits, save only that they go barefoot in sandals? These good Fathers make a profession to teach poor boys gratis their first grammar radiments, and to make them fit to be sent to the Jesuits schools; and having thought them thus in the schools, they accompany them home in the streets, lest they should either learn waggery as they go home, or practise it. Nay these humble men make it their profession not to teach higher schools, where there might be some profit and honour, at least some satisfaction and pleasure: but they content themselves to go bare foot, and teach only the lower schools and first rudiments; by which they neither grow wiser, nor richer: A strange mortified trade; But Beati pauperes spiritu. What shall I say of the Fathers of the Agonizants, The Fathers of the Agonizants. whose vocation is to be the Seconds of those who fight against death in self; that is▪ whose profession is, to assist those that are in the agony of death; and to help them to make then those pious Acts which Christians should most of all then rouse themselves up to? What can be said more? yes Rome not content, to have fed, to have bred, to have converted, baptised reconciled the living; and assisted the dying; she extends her charity even beyond death itself, and hath institued a pious Confraternity called, La Compagnia d'ye Morti, La Compagnia de Morti. whose office is to bury the dead, and to visit those that are condemned, and by praying with them, exhorting them, and accompanying them to the execution, help them to die penitently, and bury them being dead, and pray for their souls being buried; After which, charity can do no more to man: and therefore I will conclude, that seeing such singular acts of charity, both for body and mind, are practised no where so much as in Rome, its true which I assumed above, that Rome deserves to be called, The Holy. Having said thus much ●f the title of Rome, I will now, make my Reader better acquainted with her, by describing the particularyties which I observed here. And that I may not ramble in writing of Rome, as most men do in visiting of it, I will begin at the Bridge called now Ponte Angelo, and from thenc make the whole gyro of the City in order. Ponte Angelo. Arriving then at the Bridge called anciently Pons Aelius because it was built by the Emperor Aelius Adrianus, but now called Ponte Angelo, because it was upon this Bridge that S. Gregory the Great saw an Angel upon the Moles Adriani sheathing his sword after a great plague: here we saw the stately new decoration of Iron work with the twelve Marble statues set upon it by this present Pope Clement the IX. and looking down into the river on the left hand, we saw the ruins of the Triumphal bridge. This bridge was called the Triumphal Bridge, The Triumphal Bridg. because over it, Triumphs were accustomed to pass anciently to the Capitol. This made it so proud, that it scorned that any rustics, or country fellows, should pass over it; and got a Decree of the Senate for that purpose. But pride will have a fall; and the proud Triumphal Bridge hath got such a great one, that there's but just so much of it left, as to show, where it was once; so true is the saying of Ausonius, Mors etiam saxis nominibusque venit. At first the Romans were modest enough in their Triumphs, as in all other things: hence Camillus was content with four white horses in his Chariot; but afterwards luxe and excess banishing out of the City, old modesty, they began to strive who should be the most vain in this point. Hence Pompey was drawn in triumph, Vanity in Triumphs by four Elephants; Mark-Antony, by four Lions; Nero by four Hermaphrodites, which were all four both horses and mares: Heliogabulus by four Tigers; Aurelianus by six stags; and Firmicus by eight Austridges. castle Angelo. At the end the Ponte Angelo stands the castle Angelo, so called because, as I said before, S. Gregory in a solemn Procession during the plague saw an Angel upon the top of Moles Adriani sheathing his sword, to signify, that God's anger was appeased. Before this Miracle happened, it was called Moles Adriani because the Emperor Adrian was buried here. It was built anciently in a round form, of vast stones, going up in three rows, or stories lesser and lesser, till you came to the top; where stood mounted that great pineapple of brass guilt, which we see now in the garden of the Beluedere. Round about it were set in the wall great marble pillars, and round about the several stories stood a world of Statues. This Moles being found a strong place, Bellisarius put men into it to defend it against the Goths; and they defended themselves in it a great while, by breaking the Statues in pieces, and throwing them upon the heads of the Goths that besieged them. Since that time, divers Popes have turned it into a formal Castle. Boniface the VIII, Alexander the VI, and Vrban the VIII, have rendered it a regular Castle, with five strong bastions, store of good Cannons, and a constant garrison maintained in it. From this Castle I saw divers times these Fortifications; and below divers great pieces of artillery made of the brass taken out of the Pantheon; and they showed us one great Cannon which was made of the brazen nails only that nailed that brass to the walls of the Pantheon; the length and form of those nails, is seen upon that Cannon, to show unto posterity how great they were, with these words upon it, ex cla●is trabialibus Porticus Agrippae. In this Castle are kept prisoners of State; the 5 million laid up there by Sixtus Quintus; the Pope's rich triple crowns called Regni, and the chief Registers of the Roman Church. From the top also of this Castle you see distinctly the long Corridor, or Gallery, which runs from the Pope's Palace of the Vatican to this Castle, The long Corridor from the Palace to the Castle. for the Pope's use in time of danger. It was made by Pope Alexander the VI and used by Clment the VII. who by it got safe into the Castle from the fury of the Germane Soldiers, who being many of them Lutherans, swore they would eat a piece of the Pope. From hence entering into the Borgo, we went towards S. Peter's Church, and in the way stepped into the Church of the Carmelits called Santa Maria Transpontina, Santa Maria Transpontina. were in a Chapel on the left hand as you enter, are seen two pillars of stone enchased in wood, to the which S. Peter and S. Paul were tied when they were whipped before their death, according to the Romans custom. Here's also the Head of S. Basil the Greek Father surnamed the Great. Here's also a curious picture of S. Barbara in the Vault, by Cavalier Gioseppe. Going on from hence, we came presently to the Palace of Campeggi, so called because it belonged to Cardinal Campeggi the Pope's Legate in England, to whom Henry the VIII gave it. Heretofore it belonged to the English Ambassadors, The English Ambassadors Palace and was one of the best in Rome, both for being near the Pope's Palace, and also for that it was well built by famous Bramante. It belongs now to Cardinal Colonna. Over against it stands a little Piazza, with a fine fountain, and joining to it, a little Church called, San Jacomo Scozza Cavalli, S. jacomo Scozza Cavalli. in which, under an Altar on the right hand, I saw the stone upon which Abraham offered to sacrifice his Son Isaac: and under an other Altar on the left hand, the Stone upon which our Saviour was placed when he was presented in the Temple. Both these were brought, or sent to Rome, by Helen mother of the Emperor Constantin the Great, Presently after, you come to the Piazza of S. Peter, The Portico of the Piazza of S. Peter, built round about with a noble Portico of freestone borne up by four rows of stately round pillars, under which not only the Procession upon Corpus Christi day, marcheth in the shade; but also all people may go dry, and out of the sun, in summer, or winther, unto S. Peter's Church, or the Vatican Palace. This Portico is built in an oval form, and fetcheth in the great Piazza, which is before S. Peter's Church, and therefore can be no less than half a mile in compass. This noble structure was begun by Alexander the VII, and half of it finished, and the other half is now almost finished. I never saw any thing more stately than this. The number of the pillars, and of the statues on the top, I do not justly remember. In the midst of this Piazza stands the famous Guglias; The great Guglias before S. Peter's. which was brought out of Egypt in the time of the old Romans, and dedicated to Augustus Caesar and Tiberius, as the words upon it import. It lay hid long in Nero's Circus, which was there where now S. peter's Sacristy is; and at last Sixtus Quintus having proposed great rewards to him that would venture to set it up here without breaking, it was happily undertaken, by Dominico Fontana a rare Architect of Como; and so placed as you see it now. The manner of bringing it out of Egypt, and of erecting it here are both painted in Fresco upon the Walls of the Vatican Library: This Gulia is all of one stone except the basis; and it hath no Hieroglyphes upon it. The stone is a Granite, or speckled marble, which together with its Basis, is a hundred and eight foot high. It rests upon four lions of brass guilt; and at the top of it is planted a cross of brass mounted upon three Mountains with a star over them (the arms of Sixtus Quintus whose name was Montalto.) Within the Cross is a piece of the Holy Cross of our Saviour, encluded here by Sixtus Quintus. The whole Guglia is said to weigh 9●6148 pound weight. I wonder what scales they had to weigh it with. The Fountains. On each side of this Guglia is to stand a fair Fontaine, one whereof is that which is seen there now; which throweth up such a quantity of water, that it maketh a mist always about it, and oftentimes a a rainbow, when the Sun strikes obliquely upon it. The Piazza, This Piazza is capable of two hundred thousand men, and delivers you up to the Stairs which lead you up to the Church of S. Peter. Coming therefore near to S. Peter's Church, S. peter's. I was glad to see that noble structure, where greatness and neatness, bulk and beauty, are so mingled together, that it's neither neat only, like a spruce gallery; nor vast only, like a great hall; but it's rather like a proper man, and yet well proportioned. You mount up to this Church by an easy ascent of four and twenty steps of marble stairs, The marble steps up to S. Peter's Ch. as long as the frontispiece of the Church is wide; These stairs where those of the old Church of S. Peter; and Baronius observes, that when the Emperor Charlemain mounted up those stairs first, Baron ad an. 774. he kissed every step as he went up. These Stairs lead you up to the Frontispiece of the Church, The Frontispiece. which hath five doors in it, letting you into the Porch; and these doors are cheeked with vast round pillars of freestone twenty four foot in compass, and eighty six in height. Over these pillars runs the architrave, and over it, the Lodge or great Balcone, where the Pope is crowned, and where he gives his Benediction upon Easterday. Over this Lodge runs a continual Baluster or row of rails, upon which stand thirteen vast statues of our Saviour and his Apostles cut in stone. Entering into the Porch, The Porch you will admire the length, breadth, and height of it. For the length of it, it's two hundred eighty nine foot: the breadth forty four foot: though height, a hundred thirty three foot. It's adorned on both sides with great marble pillars, and a curious guilt roof. In fine, this Porch any where else would be a handsome Church. The Church itself. Over against the five doors of this Porch, stand the five doors of the Church; one whereof is called, the Porta Sancta, Porta Santa. and only open in the jubily year: the others are daily open; and the two principal doors are called, Valuae Sancti Petri, Value S. Petri, and are covered with brass by the command of Eugenius the IV, whose memorable actions, to wit, th● crowning of the Emperor Sigismond, and the reunion of the Greek Church with the Latin, are expressed in them. These Valuae are thirteen foot wide, and forty five high; and to them all Pope's Bulls are nailed at their publication. The inside of the Church of S. Peter, Entering into the Church, I found it to be built in cross wise; containing in length five hundred and twenty foot, and three hundred eighty five in breadth. So that it passeth in greatness the famous Temples of antiquity, to wit, Salomon's Temple, long threescore cubits: the Temple of Diana in Ephesus, long four hundred twenty five foot; and the great Mosky at Fez, long a hundred and fifty cubits. The roof, To roof. or vault of this Church, is arched with great square, and each squar is adorned with a great guilt ●ose, which almost fills the squar. This roof is borne up by great pillars of freestone of a squar form, whose capitelli are curiously wrought after the Corinthian order, and joined to one another above by arches & a perpetual cornice, over which are cut in stone the statues of several moral virtues. These pillars are a hundred and five foot in compass, and distant forty foot one from another. On that side of them which looks towards the body of the Church; they are to be overcrusted with white marble, with two rows of niches in them for great statues of Brass guilt. The other sides of these pillars are already adorned with a neat overcrusting of a reddish marble beset with the heads of the primitive martyred Popes, held up by two Angels, and with the pigeon of Innocent the X, (who made this decoration) and all these are in mezzo rilievo, and of pure white alabaster. Behind these pillars is a large I'll, or passage, and behind that I'll immediately, stand fair Chapels which flank up this Church notably, and each Chapel is graced with a little Cupola of its own. In the midst of the Cross building of this Church is mounted the great Cupola, which looks like a great crown wherewith this Queen of Churches is crowned. It rests upon four Pilastri or great pillars which make the corners of the cross of this Church, and from them it riseth into such a high Vault, that it seems to walk into heaven. It's full as round as the Pantheon in Rome, that is, it carrieth the compass of an hundred and seventy paces, as you may easily measure upon the circle of white marble in the pavement, which environeth the Altar of S. Peter, and is made there a purpose perpendicularly under the Cupola to show its greatness. The inside of this Cupola is curiously painted with pictures in Mosaic work representing a ●eauen: indeed nothing but heaven itself can be finer, or higher. So that I may say truly to Rome with Rutillius, Non procul a coelo per tua templa sumus. In a word this Cupola is the boldest piece of Architecture that perhaps the world hath seen; and it was the last and greatest work of Sixtus Quintus his purse. The four Pilastri upon which this Cupola resteth, The four great Pilastri. are vast squar pillars a hundred and twenty foot in compass, and capable of stairs within them, and large Sacristyes above, for the Holy Relics that are kept in them; to wit, the Volto Santo, or print of our Saviour's face, which he imprinted in the handkerchief of S. Veronica: The piece of the Holy Cross: the top of the lance wherewith our Saviour's side was pierced: and the Head of S. Andrew the Apostles translated hither into his Brother's Church by Pius secundus. Hence in these great pillars, are cut Niches and in them placed four vast Statues of white marble. Under the Relic of the Volto Santo stands the Statue of the Veronica: under the piece of the Holy Cross, the statue of S. Helen. Under the top of the lance, the Statue of Longinus: under the Head of S. Andrew, The statue of S. Andrew. These statues are of Colossean greatness, and made by masters as great as themselves. The High Altar. In the midst of the Cross of this Church, and perpendiculary under the very Cupola, stands the High Altar of this Church. This Altar may well be called, the High Altar (Altar quasi alta Ara) or the Altar mains, being the noblest Altar in the world, both for matter and form. The Altar itself stands over the Tomb S. Peter, The Tomb of S. Peter. half of whose body, together with half of S. Paul's, lies buried here; and the other half of their bodies in S. Paul's Church. Over this Altar four stately pillars of brass bear up a Canopy of the same metal, wrought about the edge like a Canopy indeed, with Valances and a guilt fringe, yet all of brass. Over the corners of this Canopy stand four great Angels of brass guilt, and in the midst of it, is mounted high a round ball of brass guilt, and a fair Cross upon it of the same metal. These four pillars are as great in compass (I speak by experience having taken the measure of them upon their model) as three ordinary men are thick. The 4. brass pillars of the Altar. Their form is is serpentine, wreathed about with vinetrees and leaves; but all of brass; as also adorned with little Angels of brass clambering up those leaves and branches, and with Bees here and there also, relating to Pope Urbans arms, who made them. These pillars are fifty foot high from the ground. Every on of them weigheth five and twenty thousand pound weight; and all of them together make this Altar, The Altar antonomastically, as this Church is The Church of the world. So that if the Climax be true (as ●rue it is) that Churches are for Altars, Altars for Priests, Priests for God, I know no Religion which payeth such honourable Tributs of worship to God, as the Roman Catholic religion doth, which hath the noblest Church, the noblest Altar, the noblest Priest, the noblest Sacrifice, and all this to the noblest God; Deus Deorum Dominus. Hence the Pope may say with Solomon: 2. Paxalip. c. 2. Domus quam aedificare cupio magna est, magnus est enim Dominus noster super omnes Deos. The Confessio S. ●etri. Behind this Altar (not in respect of him that comes into the Church by the great door, but in respect of him that stands at the Altar) stands the Confession of S. Peter; so called because that in the primitive times, the place where the bodies of Saints and Martyrs where kept, was called Confessio, and in the Greek Church, Martyrium. For in ancient writers the word Confessor was taken often for a martyr, who had confessed Christ so far as even to die for him: so that martyrs were sometimes called Confessors, and Confessors Martyrs, though they did not actually die in tormen; as you may see plainly in the Anotations of learned Pamelius upon Tertullia's book ad Martyrs. Now, num. 1. this place because it conserves the body (at least, half of the body) of S. Peter, is called, the Confession of Peter. As for this Confession, it's made like a hollow cave open above, and railed about with low rails, so that the people kneeling, may look down to the iron door and grate, behind which the Tomb of S. Peter stands under the Altar: for these rails fetch in a demi-circle from one corner of the Altar to the other. There are also a double pair of open stairs, of some twelve steps a piece, for those to descend by who officiate, and there are two little half doors which let them in to those stairs. And I conceive, at the bottom of these little doors, the Limina Apostolorum to be. The Limina Apostolorum. For though I know its generally held, that to visit the Limina Apostolorum (which Bishops by the Canon law are obliged unto) is to visit S. Peter's Church; and that divers learned Authors think the Limina Apostolorum, to be the very steps of the entrance of the great door of the Church; yet I am of opinion, that these little half doors, and the steps about the Altar are most properly the Limina Apostolorum, because I found these very words written in golden letters in the bottom of the like little doors which stand about the High Altar in S. Paul's Church, where the other half of the bodies of S. Peter, and S. Paul are entombed. Cubicularii S. Petri. Round about this Church stand side Chapels, some six and twenty in all, Vid. Anastas. Biblioth. in Marcello. called ancienly Cubicula, and those whom we call Chaplains, were anciently called Cubicularii: hence the title of Cubicularius S. Petri. Now these Chapels have, for the most part, Paulin. Epist. 12. add Sever. some remarkable thing in them. In one of them, is always reserved the B. Sacrament for the daily use of Pilgrims that desire to communicate in S. Peter's Church, and other devout people. In that of S. Gregory Nazianzen, S. Greg. Nazianzens' tomb. is the body of that Saint translated hither out of the Church of the Nuns of Campo Marzo. In the Chapel of the Canons, reposeth the body of S. chrysostom. S. Chrisostoms tomb. In the Chapel called the Clementina, reposeth the body of S. Gregory the great, S. Gregory's tomb. who being Pope of Rome and moved by Godly instinction (as john Stow saith) sent Augustin, justus, Melitus, and other Monks living in the fear of God, to convert the Angles, Stow in his Chronicles in Kentish Saxons. or English to the faith of Christ; and therefore I took particular notice often of his tomb, as being (as Venerable Bede calls him) our Apostle. In a Chapel at the very further end of the Church, is set up the Chair of S. Peter; The Chair of S. Peter. held up by four Doctors of the Church, all cast in brass in a stately posture. This Chair is of wood, but much spent with old age; and therefore Pope Alexander the VII, caused it to be set up here and enchased curiously, to preserve it. I once saw it near at hand, being exposed to public view in the middle of the Church upon the Feast day of S. Peter's Chair in Rome. In an other Chapel, is the Crucifix made three hundred years ago by rare Pietro Cavalino. In an other Chapel, you see cut in white marble the history of S. Leo's meeting Attila out of Rome, and his deturning him from coming any nearer to the City. The Chief Relics. As for the Relics and bodies of Saints which are in this Church, besides those mentioned already, there are the bodies of SS. Simon and jude, of S. Petronilla, of SS. Processus and Martinianus, of ten first Popes after S. Peter; with a world of other precious Relics Kept in the Sacristy. Some Tombs. As for the Tombs which are in this Church above ground, they are these. That of Sixtus IV. of Paulus III; of Vrban the VIII; of Leo the XI. of Innocent the VIII; of Gregory the XIII; of Innocent the X; and lastly that of the Countess Matilde, the only secular person that I find to have a Tomb in this Church above ground. Indeed she deserves well to lie in S. Peter's Church who deserved to be called S. Peter's daughter; and she deserved this surname, for having defended the Church so gallantly it is greatest conflict Against Henry the IV. Emp. and having endowed it with a good part of its Patrimony. Her body was translated from Mantua hither in the year 1633. by the command of Pope Vrban the VIII. Near the Confession of S. Peter, is an old brazen statue of S. Peter sitting, with his hand up as giving his blessing; and holding his right foot a little out, to be kissed. At first, some wonder to see devout people flocking thither, and kissing the fotte of that statue, and putting their heads under that foot when they have done; but when they are well informed, that all this is done only to testify, that they submit themselves to the authority which was given by our Saviour, to S. Peter, and his Successors, they rest satisfied. Over the Holy water pot on the left hand as you enter into the Church is seen fastened to the wall, an old inscription upon a squar stone, importing, that that was the very stone upon which the bodies of S. Peter and S. Paul where divided, when half of their bodies was buried here and the other half in S. Paul's Church, by S. Silvester. Some prime Pictures. As for the prime pictures that are in this Church; they are these: That of S. Michael in Mosaic work is of the design of Cavalier Gioseppe: as also the design of the Masaick work in the Cupola. That of S. john Evangelist, and S. Luke just under the Cupola are of the hand of Giovanni de Vechi. The picture where S. Peter cures the lame man, is of the hand of Ludovico da Civoli. That of the fall of Simon Magus is of the hand Vanni of Sienna. That where S. Peter is painted with Annanias dead before him, is of the hand of Cavalier Rancalli. That of the Altar of S. Gregory, is of the hand of Andrea Sacco Romano. That of the creation of the world, is of Pietro Berettino de Cortona. That of Medica fidei, is of the hand of Lanfranco. Having thus seen the Church I went to see the Sacristy of this Church where by express leave from the Monsignor, The Sacristy of S. Peter. who hath the chief care, as well as the Keys of it, I saw the Holy Relics, and neat Church plate belonging to this Church. The Relics are many, and richly enchased in gold and silver. The Church plate is both plentiful, and of great value, as many Chalices of pure gold set with jewels, hugo syver candlesticks with a Crucifix of the same as heavy as a man can lift, with a world of other such like plate. But that which pleased me most here, was the ancient Picture of S. Peter and S. Paul, An ancient Picture. which saint Sylvester showed to Constantin the Great to confirm the truth of his Vision. The Picture is very old, yet the faces are percevable, and that is all. It's set in a frame of silver. The history of it is both long and known: & if any man be ignorant of it, let him read it in Baronius. There is also in the said Sacristy an other picture nailed high upon the wall, which was made by N. Carpi with his fingers instead of a pencil. The Grotte under S. Peter's Church. Being now in the Sacristy, I got leave to go down into the Grotte under this Church, with a practical Clericus with a lighted torch to show me and explicate unto me the most considerable things that are there: as the Tomb of S. Peter with an Altar over it, at which any Bishop or priest may say Mass: a world of ancient statues (set in the low Chapels, and in the wall of this Grotte) which belonged to the old Church of S. Peter, and showing the antiquity of pictures in Churches: the Tomb of the most honourable Churchman of our Nation, Pope Adrian the IV, the only English Pope that ever was: Adrian the IV an English man. the Tomb of the Emperor Otho the second, in a great porphyry shrine: the Tombs of divers other great Popes and Cardinals: and in sine, the tombstone of Charlotte of Luzignan, Queen of jerusalem, Cyprus, and Armenia, who having been driven out of her kingdom by her Bastard Brother, came to Rome in Sixtus Quartus his time, and there died. She transfered before her death, her right to the kingdom of Cyprus, to the Duke of savoy her brother in law; which makes that Duke give a close crown over his arms, and be styled by his subjects, Altezza Real, Royal Highness. Having thus seen this Church both within and underground, S. Peter's Church above. I was desirous to see it also above. Ascending therefore by a fair staircase I arrived at the great terrace over the Lodge, and there saw the thirteen statues of our Saviour and the twelve Apostles near hand, which seem below little taller than the stature of our tallest men, and yet here above are eighteen foot high. There also I saw the several little Cupolas, which give light to the side Chapels of this Church, and look like the issue and spawn of the Great Cupola. Then mounting a little higher. I beheld the rare fabric of the mother Cupola, both within and without. The stairs to mount up into it: the double vault in it, and stairs between the two vaults: the lantern upon the Cupola: the narrow stairs in one of the pillars of that Lantern up to the Ball: lastly the strait neck of the passage into the Ball, and the Ball itself, are all worth particular observation, The round Ball capable of 30 man. as being the height of Architecture. The Ball itself of brass guilt is capable of thirty men, though from below it looks only as big as twice a man's head. We were eight in it at once; and I am sure we could have placed thrice as many more. Upon the round Ball is mounted a great Cross of iron guilt to signify, that the Virtue of the Cross by our Saviour's passion, hath triumphed over the world, of which this round Ball is the express emblem. From this Cupol● we had a perfect View of Rome under us, and of all the Villas about it. But nothing was so wonderful, as to see S. Peter's Church and Palace, look like a town under us, which we knew to be but one Church and house. You will wonder perchance too, when you shall hear that this Church is the eight wonder of the world, Praise of S. Peter's Church. that the Pyramids of Egypt, the walls of Babylon, the Pharos, Colossus, etc. were but heaps of stones compared to this fabric: that it hath put all antiquity to the blush, and all posterity to a Non plus: that its several parts are all incomparable Masterpieces: its pictures all originals: its statues perfect models: That it hath a revenue of above twenty thousand pounds a year only for the fabric: that it hath cost till the year 1654., The revenue of S. Peter's Church. (The accounts being then summed up) Forty millions of crowns: that most of the Popes since julius the TWO his time (and they have been twenty three in all) have heartened and advanced this work▪ that the prime Architects of the world, Sangalla, Bramante, Baldassere, Buonarota, Giacomo della Porta, Giovani Fontana, Carlo Maderno, and now Cavaliero Bernino, have brought, it on to this perfection: that the whole Church itself is nothing but the Quintessence of wit and wealth strained into a religious design of making a handsome house to God, and of fulfilling, the divine oracle which promised; Aggaē● 2.10. that magna erit gloria domus istius novissimae, plusquam primae. Going at last out of this Church, and summing up in my thoughts all the rarities I had seen in it, I began to think of Ammonius (a holy primitive Saint and afterwards Bishop in the Council of Sardis) of whom it's written, Baronius an. 390 n. 5. that coming to Rome with S. Athanasius, he desired to see nothing there but S. Peter's Church, and knew not the way to any place else; I think, that if this good man had seen S. Peter's Church as it is now, he would never have cared for seeing any thing else in the world, and would even have forgot his way home too. The Vatican Palace. Near to the Church of S. Peter, stands the Vatican Palace, where the Pope's use to winter. To describe it to you all at length, would take me up too much time; nor indeed is it fit for me to dwell there. I will therefore pass through it quickly, and rather point you out what's to be seen there, then paint you out in words what I saw there. 1. From the Church of S. Peter you ascend into this Palace by an easy & stately pair of stairs capable of ten men a breast. These stairs render you up at the great Hall; called Sala Regia, The Sala Regia. because the Pope receiveth here Ambassadors of Kings in their Embassies of state. It is beautified with rare pictures in a great volume: as that of the Emperor Frederick kissing the Pope's foot, of the hand of Gioseppe del Salviati Garfagnino. That of the Ligue in France: that of Coligni: that of the Pope condemning heresy: That of the Pope returning from Auignon, are all of the hand of Georgio Vassari. That of the Emperor Charles the Great signing the Brief of the donation, is of the hand of Thadeo Zuccari: that of the battle of Lepanto with the picture of Faith at the side of it, is of the hand of Donato Formello. 2. This great Hall stands between two Chapels, the Paulina and the Sista. In the Paulina is seen a rare picture of the crucifying of S. Peter by Michael Angelo. The roof of it also was rarely painted by Federico Zuccari, but the smoke of the candles upon Manday Thursday, when this Chapel serves for the Sepulchre, hath so defaced these pictures, that a far worse hand would have served there. The Pope's Chapel. 3. The Chapel of Sisto is that in which the Pope holds Capella upon certain days, and were all the Cardinals intervene. In the end of this Chapel upon the wall, is painted the last judgement by Michael Angelo, a piece famous over all the world. The green garments of S. Katherine and the ●ead of S. Biagio are of the painting of Daniel of Volterra, who was presently set a work to make those garments, when the Pope had given express order, that this rare picture should be defaced, because of some nakedneess in it. Upon great days this Chapel is hung with a rare suit of hangings of the design of Raphael Urbin wrought with gold and silk, containing the Acts of S. Peter and S. Paul. 4. Beinde this Chapel stands the Pope's Sacristy; The Pope's Sacristy. a place scarce known to strangers, and therefore seldom seen by them; though very well wroth the seeing. It's kept always by a Prelate, who is always an Augustin Friar, and a Bishop, and called Monsignor Sacrista. In authors of high times we find mention of this officer under the name of Cimiliarcha, or chief Sacristan. Here I saw rare Church ornaments for the Pope's use. These in particular I cannot let pass without mentioning: The cope of saint Sylvester Pope, thirteen hundred years a go. The neat Chasuble of cloth of tissue with the pictures of the ministering the seven Sacrements, all embroidered in it in silk and gold so rarely, that the late Lord Mareshal of England Tho. Earl of Arundel. got leave to have it painted out, and so much the more willingly, because it had been given to the Pope by King Henry the VIII a little before his Schism. Then the incomparable suits of ornaments for Priest, Deacon, and Subdeacon, to be used in high Mass, which were given by King Sebastian of Portugal, and set all over with pearl, and these pearls were the first that came out of the Indieses, and were in all eight hundred pound weight of pearl. The other rare things here were the Head of S. Laurence, S. Laurence his Head. which I saw near at hand, through a crystal: a piece of the sponge, in which the Jews gave our Saviour gall to drink: the Camisia of S. Prisca a primitive Saint martyred in it 1400 years ago: the Crucifix in which is set under a crystal, a piece of the Holy Cross carved with the passion of our Saviour in it: a thorn of our Saviour's crown of thorns, which belonged to Pius Quintus: a cross set with Diamans and Pearls, which the Pope wears at his breast in great functions: a great ring which he also weareth in such functions; it's set with a fair Saphir, and four great pearls: a fair Crucifix enamelled and beset with store of pearl and jewels: the Pope's Pallium which he wears in great functions: the fistula, or pipe of gold wherewith the Pope receives the consecrated blood of our Saviour in the Chalice upon great days: the rare Chalices of gold set with pearl, and yet more precious for their workmanship then for their matter: the great Chalice of gold, into which the Cardinals put their written Votes in chuseing the Pope by scrutiny: the five triple crowns called Regni, four whereof are set thick with precious stones and pearl of great value, and therefore ordinarily kept in the Castle Angelo: two mitres of the same richness: the crystal Pixe in which the Blessed Sacrament is kept in the Sepulchre upon Manday Thursday: in fine the book of the Ghospels painted in miniature by the famous Giulio Glorio, for whose first picture here (of the last judgement) Paulus Tertius sent him fifteen hundred pistols, as Monsignor Sacrista assured me. 5. Passing from hence through the Sala Regia again, I was led into the great room hard by, where the Pope washeth the feet of thirteen Pilgrims upon Manday Thursday; and then giveth every one of then a great Meddal of Gold with four pistols, and an other of silver. 6. Thence I was led into the open gallery which looketh upon the court; The Gallery painted by Raphael. I mean, the second lodge, (for there are three such open galleries) where the histories of the Bible are painted most curiously in the roof of it by prime masters. That of Adam and the Creation: that where Adam sows: that where the sheep drink: that were Jacob saw the ladder: that of the last Supper of Christ with his Apostles: that where Moses shows the Laws, are all of the hand of Raphael Urbin. That of the Deluge: & of the adoration of the golden Calf, are of the hand of Raphael dal Borgo. That where Josue commands the Sun to stop: that of Bersabee, and the like, are of the hand of Pierino del Vago. That of the Chariot, and some others are of the hand of Caravagio. That of Moses' striking the Rock; that of the judgement of Solomon; and some others are of the hand of julio Romano. That of the Baptism of Christ, with other such like, are of the hand of Pellegrino da Modena. Yet because in all these pictures Raphael Urbin give either the design, or some touches, this Gallery is called Raphael's Gallery: indeed nothing but the divine history itself can be finer than this painting of Divine Raphael. And it belongs only to Rome to have the Bible set out thus in its own colours: and if pictures be the best books for ignorant people, who can say that the Bible is kept from the people here, seeing its painted and printed here in the most Vulgar tongue, and known language, pictures? In a word Raphael's colours seemed to me to illustrate the text very much, and to be an excellent Comment upon the Holy scripture, 7. From this gallery I was led into the great chamber, where Constantins' Victory over Maxentius is so rarely painted upon the walls by Raphael's own hand, Constantins' battle with Maxentius. that this painting serves this chamber not only for a rich Tapestry; but also for an eternal Trophy to that Emperor. The several postures here of men and horses, all in confusion, yet all in such due proportion make this picture (in the judgement of Monsieur Poussin a famous painter) the rarest thing in the world for design. The best designed picture in the world. In the other fellowing rooms there are divers other rare pieces of the same hand; as that of Attila and Pope Leo: that of S. Peter in prison, a piece much admired for the perspective of it: That of the B. Sacrament: that of the burning of the Borgo: that of Aeneas carrying his Father Anchises out of the flames, are of Raphael's hand. The history of HoHeliodorus over the chimney, is of the hand of julio Romano, Raphael's scholar. 8. Going up from hence into the highest open gallery, you'll find it painted with Geographical Maps of the hand of Antonio da Varese. The roof of it is also well painted by Pomerancio, Paris Romano, and Bronzini, excellent painters all. 9 Then coming down, I saw the Sala Clamentina a noble room. Sala Clementina. The rare perspectives in the roof, and in one of the corners, both of them expressing the arms of Clement the VIII are worth your attentive consideration. 10. Then the divers Chambers of his Holiness hung all with Damask hangings in summer, and velvet hangings in winter, are very neat. In the Pope's bed chamber I saw the grave picture of our Lady with her Son in her arms, called Saint Mary Maior, it's painted curiously upon a white transparent stone three fingers thick, and yet showing the picture on both sides if held before the sun. 11. The great room guilt overhead, where the Pope treats at dinner great Princes when they come to Rome. 12. The old appartament of Pius Quintus; with the great wooden bed, or rather, the little wooden chamber of Paulus Quintus. A rare piece of perspective. 13. The rare piece of perspective over the door of the long room leading to the Gallery of Maps. At the first looking upon it, you see nothing but certain types, or figures of the Blessed Sacrament out of the old Testament, but being placed directly under it, and looking upwards, you see all the foresaid types contracted into the form of a Calais and an host over it; so show, that those old types and shadows prefigured only the body and blood of our Saviour in the holy Sacrifice of the Altar. The rare Gallery of Maps. 14. The long gallery of the Maps of Italy painted upon the walls on both sides by Paulus Brillus a Fleming, and others; and that so distinctly, that you see plainly every State, Province, City, River, Village, Castle, highway of Italy, and where any famous battle was fought either in the Romans time, or since: A Gallery which I wish I had spent as many hours in, as I spent days in going up to Rome. divers other Galleries there are in this house which I pass over in silence. 14. But I cannot pass ever so the long Gallery leading to the Beluedere, The Gallery of the Conclave. in which is kept the Conclave of all Popes: in this one great room fifty, or thresecore, Cardinals lodge, and have every one two chambers, one for himself, and the other for his Conclavist. Ex ungue Leonem you may judge by this what the whole house is; or else by this what they assure you, when they tell you, that there are five thousand Chambers in that Palace. 15. From the middle of the foresaid Gallery, you enter into the Vatican Library, The Vatican Library. famous all the learned world over, for having in it, besides the Registers of the Roman Church. the choicest manuscripts of the world in holy languages. This Baronnius found, who drew from hence notable succour for the maintaining of this Ecclesiastical history against the Centuriators of Magdebourg, who wanting these assured aims, and being otherwise wrongly biased, made faults in their history, as many as their Centuries, and as great as their Volumes. The description of this Library hath been made by learned Angelus Rocca in Latin, and by Mutius Pansa in Italian: yet for the sactisfaction of my curious countrymen I shall say something of it. First the room is a vast long room speading itself in the furter end, into two wings of building, which are all full of presses where the manuscripts are kept carefully from mice and rats, and moist weather. At the entrance into this Library, you are let into a fair chamber full of desks for a dozen of writers, who have good stipends to copy out books in all languages; and they are bound to be writing so many hours in a morning. Roundabout this room hang the Pictures of all the Cardinals that have been Bibliothecarii since Sixtus Quintus his time. Then entr●ng into the Library itself, The Library itself. I saw the vast wide room supported (like a Church) by great squar pillars, about which are as many cupboard were the manuscripts are conserved. On the wall on the right hand, are painted in Fresco the General Councils of the Church, with the Bible in the midst laying open upon a stately throne, and with the order and place of precedency observed in them: as also some notable accidents in Ecclesiastical history. On the left hand are painted all the famous Libraries anciently mentioned by authors: and upon the great pillars are painted the first Inventors and promotors of learning. This long room spreads itself at last into two wings on each hand; both which are full of curious books, both manuscripts, and printed books; divers of which were shown me with great civility, by Monsignor Holstenius then keeper of this Library whom I had formerly known. The chief of these books were these. Some rare books here. A vast Hebrew Bible too heavy for any man to lift up. An ancient copy of the Septuagints translation in Greek, after which the Bible hath been printed both in Rome and London. The Acts of the Apostles in Greek curiously written in golden letters. The gospel written by S. Chrysostoms' own hand. An Hebrew Bible written in sheets of parchment pasted to one another, and rolled up: hence the word Volumen, for a book. A little book written in bark of trees: hence the word folium, for a leaf in a book. Certain old Roman Table books. A China Tablebooke of wood, in which they wrote with a pointed steel. A curious China book all in Hieroglyphs, and folded up in many folds: our Purchas in his curious navigations hath both printed and deciphered it. Polidor Virgil's history of England written with his own hand. An old book of Sermons in Latin in whose margin S. Thomas of Aquin had made notes with his own hand. An old Virgil with the pictures of the history in old painting. An old Terence written twelve hundred years a go, and the ancientest that ever Politian saw, as he testifieth under his own hand in the inside of the cover of this book. Baronnius his Annals in his own hand writing. The rare quotations out of the ancient Fathers, painfully and faithfully collected out of the best copies, by learned Cardinal Sirleto in the time of the Council of Trent, and sent by him weekly, by the Post, from Rome, to the Fathers in the Council, who proceeded to their definitions by the ancient tradition of the Church, found so plainly and unanimously in those Fathers. Those quotations make six Volumes in folio: and this was it, which out adversary's call, the sending down of the Holy Ghost to Trent in a cloak-bag; when it was only the seding down of these faithful testimonies of the Tradition of the Church, gathered out of the most ancient and authentic copies. K. Henry the VIII Letters to Anne Bolen. The letters of Henry the VIII of England to Anne Bolen his mistress then, in his own hand writing, Some in English, some in French, but all amatory. It is easy to imagine them written by him, if you compare the hand-writing of these letters, with those two Verses written by the Kings own hand in the frontispiece of the following Book, to wit. K. Henry the VIII book against Luther. The book which the said Henry wrote against Martin Luther, and dedicated it by a couple of Latin verses written with is own hand in the Frontispiece of it, to Pope Leo the tenth: which book purchased to King Henry the honourable title of defender of the faith. The Library of the Duke of Urbin. Then I was shown the Library of the Duke of Urbin, who dying without heirs male bequeathed his Library to the Vatican Library here. In this, I saw many rare manuscripts written in parchment, and painted in miniature: especially that book in whose margins are painted by a rare hand, and wonderful diligence, all the infects in nature, in their lively colours and true resemblance. Over against this Library, they showed me, in the same room, the Library of Heidelberg, The Library of Heidelberg. sent to Rome by the Duke of Bavaria after he had dispossessed the Elector Frederick Prince Palatin of Rhein, of his country, as well as of the kingdom of Bohemia which he had seized on, at the instigation of Bethleem Gabor and others. See the Mercure François. They showed me here, among divers other books, the book of designs of the said Prince Elector Palatin, which he had designed being young. Happy Prince if he had not designed to himself an other man's crown. In the great room of this Library, there is an iron door which letteth you into a more secret room, The place of Registers. where the Registers of the Church of Rome are kept: the keeper of which Registers was anciently called Chartularius; an office much like to that in the Greek Church, called Cartophylax. In fine, I was shown here divers letters of great persons and Princes, Some Letters of great P●●sons. written with their own hands, as of S. Charles Boromaeus, to Cardinal Sirleto who had had a hand in his education: of Queen marry of England: of King Philip the second of Spain her husband, stileing himself King of Spain, England, and France; of Francis the First of France: of Margaret of Parma that Governed Flanders when it revolted: of Precedent Vargas a Spaniard, and a great statesman in Flanders, but no great Latinist, as it appeared by his answer to the Doctors of Louvain (petitioning him in Latin for their privileges) when he see said; Harsh Latin. Non curamus vostros privilegios. Mali faxerunt templa, boni nihil faxerunt contra: ergo debent omnes patibulari: the terms of the expostulation being as harsh as the Conclusion of it▪ and some old polite Orators had rather have been hanged indeed, then threatened in such bad Latin. A little before I went out of this Library I saw near the door, the Statue of Hippolytus Bishop of Portua, (who lived 1400 years ago) sitting in a chair of stone, upon which is cut in Greek letters the ancient Canon Paschalis, Canon Paschalis. upon which Scaliger and others have written. It's a curious piece of learned antiquity, and worthy to he taken notice of. 16. Having seen the Library we were led on by the long Gallery mentioned before, unto the Beluedere, The Belueder● were we descended into the Pope's private garden, full of orange trees, fine walks, and fountains. Here are three or four, unavoidable wetting places to those that are not acquainted with them. Henc you go down to see the rare fountain of the iron ship. In this garden I saw the Pineapple of brass guilt, The great Pineapple which is as great as three men can fathom about, and twice as high as the tallest man can reach. Here also stand by it the two great Peacocks of brass guilt, The two Peacocks. which stood anciently upon Scipio Affricanus his tomb, and are some three or four yards long. The Beluedere of the Maschere. 17. From hence we were led hard by to see the Beluedere of the Maschere, which Michael Angelo called, his Study. It's a squar Court set with Orange trees, in whose walls are great Niches, with leaves to them of wood, where the choice statues of the world are conserved under lock and key, and free from ill weather. The chief statues here, Rare statues are these: that of the river Nilus, and that of Tiber, both in cumbent postures: That of Antinous, minion of the Emperor Adrian; it's of pure oriental marble, and rarely cut: that of Cleopatra: that of Venus coming out of a bath: that of Commodus the Emperor: that of Laocoon and his sons involved about with serpents. This statue of Laocoon is the master piece of sculpture. That in the middle of the Court, of Hercules without arms, legs, or head, is so rare a trunk, that Michael Angelo professed, Michael Angelo's study. he had learned more skill out of that broken statue, than out of all the whole ones he had ever seen. Hence you see always a world of sculptors designeing it out: A piece of the Lion's skin yet appearning made me not doubt but that it was the statue of Hercules. 18. From hence we stepped into the great garden of the Baluedere, The great Garden of Beluedere full of exotic trees, curious fountains, shady walks, and great variety of Grottes and wetting sports. 19 Lastly, in our return again through the Vatican palace, we saw the Armoury full of arms, The Armoury. for thirty thousand men, horse and foot, and well kept. Having thus seen the Vatican Palace, I went on with the rest of the curiosities of the town, and took them in order as they lay. Henc going from S. Peter's, and leaving the Palace of the Santo Officio on my right hand, The Santo Officio. I came presently to the Hospital of San Spirito which is hard by. The Hospital of S. Spirito. The situation of this Hospital near to S. Peter's Church, was not done casually; but without doubt, upon design and for this end, that men might learn by the very situation of Hospitals near unto great Churches (as I observed in many other places both in Italy, and France) that Christians after they have performed their duties to God, aught to pay in the next place their duties to their neighbour; and let that faith, which they came from exerciseing in the Church towards God, be made appear by good works exercised presently in Hospitals towards men. Now this Hospital of San Spirito, is one of the fairest in Europe both for bigness, and revenues. It hath a thousand beds in it for the sick: a Prelate to govern it: store of Priests, Physicians, and under Officers, to attend on them, and a revenue of seventy thousand crowns a year. There is also a Monastery of women in it, in a place separated from the rest, capable of 500 young girls. In the appartiments above stairs there is handsome accommodation for poor gentlemen, founded by the gentleman like charity of Pope Vrban the VIII, to this end, that those whom Fortune had privileged by better birth, might not be involved in common miseries. There is also a grace towards the street, where little infants are put into a squar hole of a Turn, and so turned in by night by their unlawful mothers, who not daring to own them, would otherwise dare to destroy them. Lewis Guyon in diver. lec. l. 2. c. 16. Constantin the Great founded such hospitals for exposed chrildrens. The person that brings the child in the night rings a little bell whose rope hangs at the outside of that grate, & an officer within comes presently and receiveth it; & having first asked whether it be baptised or no, carrieth it presently away, and recommends it to a Nurse, of which there are always store in readiness entertained there at the cost of the Hospital on the woman's side of the house. When the children are grown fit for instruction, they are set to trads. The girls are carefully brought up by religious women there, till they be fit for Marriage or a Nunnery, according to their vocation. S. Onofrios. Church. From hence I went to S. Onofrios' Church upon the hill, where I saw the Tomb and picture over it, of rare Torquato Tasso, The Tomb of Torquato Tasso. whose warlike Muse is able to inspire mettle into his Readers breast, and dispose him to the engagement of a new Crusade against the Turks. This I can say of him, that if Virgil hindered him from being the f●rst of Poets, he hindered Virgil from being the only Poet. Returning down again, and going along the Longara, Longara. I saw the stately palace of the Duke of Salviati on the right hand, and the Villa of Chisi (now called the garden of Farnesi, Villa Chisi. on the left hand. In this Villa I saw rare painting attributed to Raphael Urbin. Queen Christina's Palace. Over against this garden, lives now the Queen of Suede, in whose Palace besides the rare hangings of cloth of gold, & of arras hangings of silk and gold, I saw a curious collection of pictures, originals all, and of the prime masters of the world: That of Sr Thomas Moor● is, without doubt, of Hans Holbains hand, and a rare piece. Passing on the Longara still, I came to the Porta Septimiana, so called from Septimius Severus who built here his Therm; and so up the Hill to Saint Pancratius his Gate, S. Pancratius his Church. and to the Church of that Saint possessed now by discalced Carmelits. Under this Church is the Caemeterium Calepodit, Caemeterium Calepodii where many Martyr's bodies were buried. Here was buried Crescentius the tyrant, who seizing upon the Castle Angelo swayed all in Rome for a while. From hence I went to the Villa Pamfilia, Villa Pamfilia. which is hard by. It's a new Villa, but seated high, and from the terrace upon the top of the house, you have a fine prospect. There are divers good pictures and statues in the house, and fine water-works, and a grotta in the garden. The best pictures here are, the Crucifixion of S. Peter, and the Conversion of S. Paul, of Michael Angelo's hand. The entry of the Animals into the Ark of No, is a rare piece the best statues are the wrestling of Jacob with the Angel in white marble: Senecas statue: and the Busto of Innocent the X of porphyry: and his head in brass. Returning again into the town the same way we came, I saw the brave Fountain made by Paulus Quintus, The Fountain of Paulus V. who caused the water to be brought thither from the Lake of Bracciano above thirty miles off, by a stately Aqueduct; and from hence it is dispersed into the City and there makes new fountains. Hard by stands the Convent of Franciscans upon a Hill, called S. Pietro Montorio, San Pietro Montorio where S. Peter was crucified with his head downward, in that very place of the court where there's now a round Chapel▪ entering into the Church I was much taken with the picture for the high Altar representing our Saviour's Transfiguration. It was the last and best piece of Raphael Urbin's making, and then I may say, it is the best in world: I guess it to be the best of Raphael's pieces, because dying he commanded that this picture, of all his pictures, should be set up at his feet after his death. In this Church lies buried the Earl of Tyrone who fled from Ireland hither in Queen Elizabeth's time. Here are two fine statues in marble of S. Peter and S. Paul, of the hand of Michael Angelo. Going out of this Church, Mons Janiculus you have a fair sight of Rome under you from this hill. This Hill was anciently called janiculus; and upon it was buried Statius the Poet; and at the foot of it Numa Pompilius. Near the foot of this Hill stands the Church and Convent of the Scala, La Scala belonging to the Discalced Carmelits. The High Altar is very ●eat; and the good Fathers showed us in a little Chapel within the Convent the foot of S. Theresa, which ●s plainly seen through a crystal in which it's kept. Not far from hence stands Santa Maria Trastevere, Santa Maria Transtevere. the first Church built in Rome (saith Baronius) and built there where anciently stood the Tabernae meritoriae; Tabernae Meritoriae. where the maimed soldiers received their pittance daily. The Gild roof, and the two rows of marble pillars, do much beautify this Church. Under the High Altar is yet seen the place where oil issued out, as from a Fountain, a little before our Saviour's birth, as denounceing his birth to be at hand, who was to be called Christus, that is anointed. In this Church lie buried Cardinal Hosius a most learned Trent Father, and Cardinal Campegius the Popes Legate in England in Henry the VIII time. You see here the stone that was tied about the neck of S. Calixtus Pope when he was thrown into a Well. Here also you see great round stones which where hung at the fee● of the Martyrs to torment them. S. Francisco in Ripa Grande. The Convent of Franciscan Fryer● called S. Francisco in Ripa Grand● is hard by; where I saw the Chamber where great S. Francis lodged when he lived in Rome. It's now turned into a Chapel. In the Church there is an excellent picture of Piety, made by Caraccio. Here in the Church is the tomb of Beata Ludovica Mathei of the the third order of S. Francis. I took the Ripa grande in my way, Ripa Grande. and saw there the boats of merchandise which come to Rome from Leghorn, Gività Vechia, Naples, and other places, and disembark their goods here. From the Ripa I went to S. Cicilies' Church built where her house was, S. Cicilies' Church. and where she was put to death for the Christian religion. Under the High Altar of this Church is the tomb of this primitive Saint, S. Cicilyes Tomb. with her statue in a couchant posture, and just as her body was found in Clement the VIII time, wrapped up in vayls stained with blood; and covered with a robe of gold. The neat decoration before the High Altar, with the silver lamps burning before the Tomb of this Saint, was the foundation of Cardinal Sfondrati. At the end of this Church, as you come in, are seen yet the stoves in which S. Sicily was shut up in her own house, to be stifled, but that failing, she was beheaded. The stoves are yet entire, and showing the manner of the ancient stoves. In the Church porch I found the Tomb of one Adam, an English Bishop of London, and Cardinal of this tittle; Cardinal Adam's Tomb. who died in Rome an. 1397. it hath these verses upon it. Artibus iste pater famosus in omnibus Adam For, fuit. Theologus summus, Cardinalisque erat. Anglia cui patriam, titulum dedit ista Beatae Aedes Caeciliae, morsque suprema Polum. S. Chrysogono. Not far from this Church stands S. Chrysogonus his Church, a neat Church repaired some years ago by Cardinal Burghesi. The four pillars of the High Altar, look as if they were of sand and crystal petrifyed together. On the left hand of the wall near the great door, lies buried Robert Archbishop of York, Cardinal Robert Archb. of York. and titular of this Church but this was all I could learn out of the Tombstone. Having thus wandered over the Trastevere, I made towards the I'll of S. Bartholomew in, which stands a good Hospital and a Convent of Franciscans, in whose Church reposeth, under the High Altar, in a fair porphyry Tomb, the body of S. Bartholomew Apostle. S. bartholomew's Tomb. This Isle was anciently called Insula Tiberina, and it was first made by the corn of Tarqvinius Superbus, which being (after his ejection out of the City) plucked up by the roots, and thrown into the river, by reason of the quantity of earth that stuck to the roots, stopped here where the water was low; and this stoppage once begun, all the mud of the river came afterwards to stop here too, and so in time, to form a little I'll in the midst of the river. Going out of the I'll by the bridge of four heads (anciently called Pons Fabricius) which joins this I'll with the City, Ponte quatro Capi. I looked down the river on my right hand, to see the Pons Sublicius, Pons Sublicius. which Cocles alone defended against an army, till the bridge was cut down behind him: which he perceiving, leapt into the river armed, and swum safe to his fellow Citizens, who were as glad to see him come off safe, as to find themselves safe. It was called Pons Sublicius, from the word Sublica in Latin, which signifies great beams of wood, of which it was made: it was afterwards built of stone by Aemilius. From this bridge the wicked Emperor Heliogabalus was thrown into the river and drowned with a great stone about his neck. The jewry. No sooner was I over this bridge, but I saw on my left hand, the great back door of the Jewry; for here the jews live all together in a corner of the town, and are locked up every night. I entered into their Synagogues here (which they call their schools) where they meet upon Saturdays and sing and pray. I wondered at first, that they had learned no more manners in these their schools then to enter into them to pray, without either putting of hats, lifting up eyes, or bending of knees, to the Great jehova, whom they rather fear then love. Moses going to him, put of this shoes, and I expected, that these men should, at least, have put of their hats at the entrance into their Synagogues: but they are Archclownes; and their fowl towels, at the entrance into their Synagogues, told me as much. I once saw a circumcision, but it was so painful to the child, that it was able to make a man heartily thank God that he is a Christian. And realy If the little child could speak and wish, I believe he would wish himself the greatest curse in the world, and to be a woman rather than a man upon such terms. I saw also a marriage here performed with many ceremonies. Returning out of the Jewry by the same gate I entered, I saw on my left hand, the Palace of Princ Savelli: its built upon the ruins of the Theatre of Marcellus, Theatrum marcel. built by Augustus in honour of his Nephew Marcellus: it was capable of fourscore thousand men. Santa Maria in Cosmedin Passing on, I came to an ancient Church called Santa Maria in Cosmedin, or in Schola Graeca, where S. Austin before his conversion, taught Rhetoric. In the porch of this Church stands a great round stone cut into the face of a man, with a great wide mouth, commonly called, La bocca della Verità, Bocca della Verità. The mouth of Truth; but this not being affirmed by the Mouth of truth, I dare not believe it. I rather believe it served in some old building for a gutter spout: I know, truth may speak loud, and have a wide mouth; but he that takes every wide mouth for the mouth of Truth, is much mistaken. S. Maria Egyptiaca. The next Church I came to was Santa Maria Egyptiaca: it was the Temple of the Sun and jupiter. This Church is neatly adorned with curious chanelled pillars. It belongs to the Armenians, who have an Hospital also here belonging to the Catholic Pilgims of that country: and the Pope allows them to celebrate Mass here after their own Armenian rite. On the other side of the great piazza, stands the Church of S. Steven. It's rounded with chanelled pillars also. It was anciently the Temple of juno Matutina morneing juno, or Alba Dea, the Break of day Goddess: a Goddess which our Ladies, that never rise till noon, would never have been devout to. Close by this Church (which stands by the river side) the great Sink of Rome, The Cloaca Naxima. called Cloaca Maxima, emptied itself into Tiber. And though this were but a Sink, yet it deserves to be mentioned among the rare magnificencies of ancient Rome. For it was nobly built by Tarqvinius Priscus, of freestone, arched overhead, with a world of springs running into it: and it was so great, that a Cart might have gone in it. This sink was one of the evident tokens of the greatness and magnificence of Rome anciently; Marks of Rome's greatness anciently. and indeed a far greater evidence then that of Heliogabulus, who caused all the spider's webs of Rome to be gathered together and weighed, that by so many poundweight of Spiders-webbs, the greatness of Rome might the better be conjectured. Going on from hence by the river side, I came to the foot of the Mount Auentin and left on my left hand a Chapel belonging to the Knights of Malta. Our antiquaries tell us, that near to this place stood the Temple of the Bona Dea, The Temple of Bona Dea. into which no man was to enter: and that Cacus his den was also in the side of this Hill, into which he dragged Hercules his oxen by the tails, Cacut his den. that no man should find out his theft by the footsteps. Upon the side of this hill stood also the Scalae Gemoniae, Scalae Gemoniae. down which criminal persons were tumbled into Tiber. S. Alexius his Church. Going up this Hill I went to S. Alexius his Church, where I saw, the wooden stairs under which this Saint lodged for seaventeen years in his own Father's house (after fifteen years' absence) without being known to any body, till after his death. The body of this Saint lies under the high Altar, together with that of S. Bonifacius the Martyr. Hard by upon the same Hill, stands S. Sabinas' Church, S. Sabinas' Church. whither the Pope comes upon Ash wednesday in a solemn cavalcata accompanied with the Cardinals. Here also upon this Hill, stood anciently the Temple of Liberty and the Romans Armilustrium. The Armilustrium. Descending from hence I made towards S. Paul's Gate; and in the way I saw on my right hand the Hill called Mons Testiacius, Mons Testacius which was made of the broken pots thrown there in the Romans time by the Potters. It's half a mile about, and 160 foot high. A little nearer the Gate of S. Peul I saw the Tomb of Caius Cestius, The Tomb of C. Cestius. built like a Pyramid of Egypt, and all of pure white marble. This is the most entire work of all the ancient Roman works. This Cestius (as the words upon his Tomb import) was septemuir epulonum, that is, one of those seven men called Epulones anciently, Epulones. because they had the devouring of those banquets which were set before the Gods in their Lectisterniis, in the Temple of Jupiter Capitolinus. The Gate of S. Paul. Passing thence through the Gate of S. Paul, anciently called Porta Tergemina; and Porta Ostiensis; I went to S. Paul's Church a little mile from the town. In the way I took notice of a little Chapel on the left hand, where S. Peter and S. Paul took leave of one another; before they were led to martyrdom. S. Paul's Church. Soon after I came to S. Paul's Church▪ here S. Paul was buried by Lucina a Roman Lady, and therefore Constantin the Great built this Church in the honour of S. Paul as he had done that of S. Peter mentioned above. It's built crosse-wise, and the body of it is 477 foot long, and 258 broad; with a hundred pillars in all, set in four ranks, all of them ancient round marble pillars taken out of the Baths of Antoniuns, In proaemio. saith Vassari. Yet in all this vast body of the Church there are no Chapels, nor any decoration, except at the very end of it, near the great door, where there is an Altar with these words in a stone over it; Hic inventum est caput S. Pauli. The most remarkable things which I saw here, were these. 1. The high Altar, with a Canopy of stone like a Tabernacle, borne up by four porphyry pillars, and adorned with statues. Under the Altar reposeth half of the bodies of S. Peter and S. Paul (as I observed before in S. Peter's Church) and as the inscription upon the side of the Altar here affirms in these words: Sub hoc altari requiescunt gloriosa corpora Apostolorum Petri & Pauli pro medietate. Behind this Altar stands the Confession of S. Paul like that of S. Peter described above. Under the little low doors which let the Priest into the steps of the Altar are written these words in golden letters, Limina Apostolorum, Limina Apostolorum. which make me bold to hold against some modern writers, that this was the precise place, and not the door of the Church, which was called Limina Apostolorum. 2. In the old Arch in the top of the roof, is yet seen a piece of Masaick work representing our Saviour in the midst of the four and twenty Elders of the Apocalypse. This piece was made there twelve hundred years ago in the time of S. Leo the great; and at the cost of Placidia Galla (daughter of Theodosius, and sister of Honorius) as the two verses in that Arch testify thus: Placidiae pia mens operis decus homne reportat, Gaudet Pontificis study splender● Leonis. The miraculous Crucifix. 3. The famous Miraculous Crucifix (standing in a Chapel on the Epistle side of the High Altar) which spoke to S. Bridgit. Baron. This Crucifix favours the opinion of those who affirm that there were two nails in our Saviour's feet. 4. The neat Chapel and Tabernacle of the B. Sacrament; with the rare pictures relating there unto, made by Cavalier Lanfranco. 5. The picture of the Altar of S. Steven made by a Lady of Bolognia called Lavinia Fontana. 6. Baron ad Ma●●● Rom● 100L Mar●●●. The chief Relics kept here are, the Head of the Samaritan woman converted by our Saviour: the Arm of S. Anne mother of our blessed Lady: and the Chain of S. Paul. From S. Paul's Church I went to the Tre Fontane above a mile and a half off, and in the way, I passed over the place where S. Zeno, and ten thousand Christians were martyried at once by the command of Diocletian the Butcher. Their blood made this way holy all along. Arriveing at the Tre Fontane I saw there three Churches standing within a place anciently called, Tre Frontane. Ad Aquas Saluias'. The first of these three Churches is that of S. Vincent and Anastase, The Church of S. Vincent and Anastase because of their Relics sent hither. For about the year 627. the Emperor Heraclius sent the Head of S. Anastasius with the picture of the same Saint unto Pope Honorius the First. Baronius an. 627. A courteous Father, of S. Bernard's Order here, did me the favour to show me near the high Altar, this Head, and this Picture. These two are most authentical things; for the attestation of them is in the very Acts of the second Council of Nice held an. 789, where to prove the lawfulness of sacred Images against the Iconoclasts, ●●e sacred Council citys a miracle wrought by this very picture of S. Anastasius: Baron. An. 627 and an. 713. and Baronius quotes divers others wrought by the same picture. The round Church. In the second Church here, to wit, the little round Church on the righ● hand, there is a famous picture of S. Bernard's Extasis. Under this Church I was led into a Vault where many of the bodies of the foresaid ten thousand Christians, who were martyred with S. Zeno, are buried. This vault goes a mile underground. Tre Fontane. In the third place stands the little Church of the Tre Fontane, so called because S. Paul was here beheaded, and where his head jumped thrice, three fountains gushed out. Upon an Altar on the left hand, is an excellent Picture of S. Peter's crucifixion, of the hand of Guido Rheni. On the other side is seen a little block (within an iron grate) upon which they say S. Paul's head was cut off. Going from hence I went over the fields to the Church of the Annuntiata one of the nine Churches of Rome visited by Pilgrims; The Annunciata. and from thenc to S. Sebastian's. S Sebastian's Church, S. Sebastian's Church. is one of the seven Churches, and of great devotion by reason of the Catacombes which are under it. Here I saw the Tomb of S. Sebastian under an altar on the left hand: many relics kept over an altar on the right hand: and the Vault underneath where Pope Steven was beheaded in his own Seat of stone, and where S. peter's and S. Paul's bodies were hidden many years. Thenc I was let into the Catacombes which are under this Church, The Catacombes. and which from thenc running many miles under ground, made anciently a Christian Rome under the Heathen. There were divers of these Catacombes in the primitive times, and they were called diversely: Arenaria, Cryptae, Areae, Concilia Martyrum, Poliandria, but most frequently Caemeteria, that is, dormitoria, because here reposed the bodies of the holy Martyrs and Saints qui obdormiverunt in Domino. But the greatest of all these Caemeteria was this of Calixtus. Caemeterium Calixti. In these Catacombes dureing the persecutions raised against the Christians by ten Heathen Emperors, the faithful believers, together with their Popes and Pastors, used privately to meet to excercice their Religion, and steal their devotions; that is, to hear Mass in little round Chapels painted over head poorly; Minister the Sacraments; bury the dead Martyrs and Confessors in the walls of the long alleys, preach, hold conferences; and even celebrate Councils too sometimes. I descended several times into several parts of these Catacombes with a good experienced guide (which you must besure of) and with wax lights (torches being too stifling) and wandered them up and down with extraordinary satisfaction of mind. The streets under ground are cut out with men's hands and mattocks. They are as high as a man, for the most part, & no broader than for two men to meet. All the way long, the sides of these Alleys are full of holes, as long as a man, and sometimes there are three rows, one over an other, in which they had buried their Martyrs and Confessors: and that posterity might afterwards know which were Martyrs, which Confessors; they engraved upon the stone which mured them up, or upon one of the bricks, a Palm branch, in sign of a Martyr; and a Pro Christo in Ciphers for a Confessor. It's recorded, that during the forsayd persecutions, a hundred seaventy four thousand Martyrs were buried here in this Cametery of Calixtus: among whom were nineteen Pope's Martyrs. Hence these Catacombes have always been esteemed as a place of great devotion, and much frequented by devout persons. The words over the door, as you descend into them from the Church of S. Sebastian, tell you, how S. Jerome confesseth, S. Hierom. in Ezechiel. c. 40. that he used every Sunday and Holiday, during his stay in Rome, to go to these Catacombes. And a picture hung over the same door showeth how S. Philip Neri used to frequent these holy places in the night; and from whence, I believe, he sucked that true spirit of the primitive Church, which reigned in him, and still reigneth in the breasts of his most virtuous children, the pious Priests of the Oratory of Rome, whom I must always praise wheresover I find them, because I always find them either writing holy things, or living them; that is, either writing books fit to be lived, or living lives fit to be written. Indeed its incredible how much the presence of these Holy Martyr's bodies, hath sanctified this place: in so much that no man enters into the catacombes but he comes better out, than he went in. Catholics come out far more willing to die for that faith, for which so many of their ancestors have died before them. The Adversaries of the Roman Church come out more staggered in their faith, and more mild towards the Catholic Religion, to see what piety there is even in the bowels of Rome; Atheists come out with that belief▪ that surely there is a God, seeing so many thousands of Martyrs have testified it with their blood. From S. Sebastian's I went to the place hard by called Capo di Bove standing upon the Via Appia. It is a great building faced about with marble stones. It was the Sepulchre of Metella wife of rich Crassus. Capo di Bove. It's now called Capo di Bove because of the ox heads cut in marble which compose the cornice that runs about the top of this Moles. Entering into it you will wonder at the thickness of the walls which are above eight els thick. It was begun to be pulled down, especially the great marble stones on the outside of it, to make up the Fontana di Trevi; but Cardinal Barberino would not suffer it to be so defaced. Close by stand the ruins of the Pretorium, The Pretorium. the Quarters of the Praetorian Bands, which the Emperors lodged here, a little out of the throng of the town, that they might not occasion so easily tumults; and that they might exercise themselves often in the Circo of Caracalla which was hard by. Circus Caracalla This Circus was made by the Emperor Caracalla, and is the most entire of all the Circos that were in Rome. You see where the Carceres, or starting place was, where the Meta; where the Guglia were. You see how long it was, and the walls yet show you what compass it carried. In the midst of it stood that Guglias which now stands in the midst of Piazza Navona. I saw it lie here broken in three pieces, and neglected quite till the Earl of Arundel our late Lord Mareshal, Offering to buy it & having already depositated threescore crowns in earnest for it, made the Romans begin to think that it was some fine thing, and stop the transporting of it into England. At last it light upon a good stone-setter, who joined it so well together that it now stands straight again upon a rare basis, and adorns the very heart of Rome: Thanks to that ingenious architect Cavalier Bernini who set it up there in the anno Sancto, & whom it set up too again in the Pope's favour Innocent the X. which he had lost, by a crack in the roof of the Portch of S. Peter's Church, caused by the heavy steeple which he had placed upon it. Near the end of the Circus of Caracalla, stands an old round Temple, The Temple Virtue & Honour. with an other little Ante-Temple, close joined to it; and out of which you go into the other. what if this were the Temple of Honour? into which there was no passage, but through the Temple of Virtue, which was joined close to it, as this is: to manifest, that Virtue is the way to Honour. Now its certain that these two Temples stood not far from the Porta Carpena (now called S. Sebastian's gate) as these two do. But I declare, that this is but ghesing. Hard by the forsayd old Temple there is an Echo which heretofore (as they say) would repeat after you a whole verse of Virgil, The Echo. but if so, it was my fortune to find her when she had catched a cold: for I could get nothing from her but the two last words of a sentence. Indeed Ausonius calls the Echo, the tail of words; and symposius saith, that the Echo is like a modest Virgin: which speaks nothing but when she is asked. Returning from S. Sebastian's towards the town again, I passed by a little Chapel called, Domine quo Vadis? and ancienthy called, Sancta Maria ad passus. It's called Domine quo vadis? because our Saviour appareing here to S. Peter flyeing out of the prison of Rome, was asked by Peter, Domine, quo vadis? Domine quovadis. Lord whither go you? And he answered: Vado Romam ut ibi iterum ●rucifigar. I am going to Rome, there to be crucified again: which words Peter understanding rightly, of Christ's suffering in his members, the faithful believers, returned again to Rome, and was soon after crucified. In the middle of this Chapel are seen the prints of our Saviour's feet in a white marble stone with an iron grate over them. Entering into the town by S. Sebastian's gate, I went on straight to the Church of S. Nereus and Achilleus, S. Nereus and Achilleus of which Church Baronius was Cardinal. The bodies of these Saints are under the High Altar. Cardinal Baronius caused this Church to be painted with the histories of Saints and martyrs, to excite others to devotion by their exemples Almost over against this Church, San Sisto. stands the Church of S. Sisto with its monastery made famous by S. Dominick, who made it his habitation, and by whom God wrought many miracles here. It stands in a most unwholesome place called anciently the Piscina publica, because the people used to wash themselves here. Here are buried S. Sixtus, Antherus, Lucius, Lucianus, Sotherus, & Zepherinus, Popes and martyrs. Here's a fine picture of S. Vincentius Ferrerius. From thence I went towards the the Porta Latina, and there saw the Church where S. john Evangelist was put into a caldron of boiling oil. S. john A● Portam Latinam. Then Following the walls of the town for a good while, I came at last to S. john Lateran's Church, S. john Lateran's Church. The Pope's Cathedral. the mother-Church of all Churches in the world, and the Pope's Cathedral. In saying this, I have said enough; and I say this after the words which are written in the architrave over the Portch of this Church, and after the Bull of Gregory the XI. who declared this Church to be the Pope's chief seat, and to have the preeminency over the other Churches, Orbis & Vrbis; even over S. Peter's Church too by name. It was built by Constanti● the Great upon mount Caelius, and dedicated to our Saviour himself, for whose sake it deserveth the headship over all the other Churches in the world, as he, to whom it is dedicated, is the Head of all the Elect. yet it is called diversely by Ecclesiastical Authors, Sometimes Basilica Constantiniana, because Constantin built it: sometimes Basilica Saluatoris, because it was dedicated to our Saviour. Sometimes Basilica S. joannis, because it was near to the two Chapels dedicated to the two S. john's, in the Baptistery of Constantin: sometimes it was called, Basilica S. joannis in Laterano, or S. john Lateran's Church, because it was built upon the place where Plautius Lateranus the designed Consul, had a fair house and a garden, which Nero the Tyrant made bold withal, having first made bold with their master, by killing him. Now this, Tacitus, and Iwenal. sat. 10. and the other great Churches of Rome are called Basilicae, either because they are built after a Royal and stately manner, or else because they are built to the King of Kings. As for this Church of S. john Lateran, It is here that the Pope taketh possession of his Papal charge, after he hath been chosen, and consecrated Bishop (if he were none before) in S. Peter's Church. For this reason all the chief Episcopal functions of the particular Diocese of Rome, are performed here; as the consecrating of Bishops and Priests, the conferring of the Sacrament of Confirmation: the Baptizeing of converted jews and Infidels. For this reason its looked upon by the Popes with great respect, and hath been not only beautified by them with costly decorations, such as those, that Clement the VIII, and Innocent the X made; but also favoured by them with great prerogatives; one declareing by his Papal Decree, that this is the Mother Church of all Churches; another fixeing her the every altar itself (of wood) on which S. Peter and the primitive Popes had offered Sacrifice; another allowing the Clergy if this Church the precedency over the Clergy of all other Churches in public processions, and to carry before them two Crucifixes; another fixeing here the Heads of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. As for the things most to betaken notice of here, they are these. 1. The Soffita or roof of this Church most richly guilt. 2. The body of the Church all made new almost by Pope Innocent the X, as to the inside of it. 3. The rare painting that runs cross the Church from the stately Organs to the Altar of the B. Sacrament, containing the chief actions of Constantin the Great, and other histories. That of the Ascension of our Saviour, with the Apostles looking up after him, is of the hand of Cavalier Gioseppe. The Histories and figures about the Chariot of Constantin, are of the hand of Bellardino. That of the apparition of our Saviour, that of Mount Soracte, that overagainst Constantins' Baptism, are all of the hand of Paris Romano. That of the Baptism of Constantin is of the hand of Cavalier Ricelli. In the Choir of the Canons the picture of the S. John is of the hand of Cavallier Gioseppe. In fine, the picture of our Saviour in the very Tribuno, or Abside, was the first picture that appeared publicly in Rome, and which was miraculously conserved in the burning of this church There are divers in others pictures in that Vaulted Tribun in Masaick work; and some simbolical figures relating to our Saviour's life and passion, which were much used anciently in Churches, as you may see in many other Churches, and in the rare book called, Roma Soterranea. 4. The High Altar here, within which is shut up the Wooden Altar which S. Peter and the primitive Popes made use of in saying Mass upon it during the persecutions, and before they had any settled Churches. S. Sylvester in the dedication of this Church, fixed it here, and none can say Mass at this Altar, but the Pope, or dureing the Pope's indisposition some Cardinal, with a particular dispensation, or Apostolical Brief which must be fastened to one of the four pillars of the Altar, during the Cardinals saying Mass there. Over this Altar stands a great Tabernacle of Marble borne up by four pillars, not only serving for a Canopy to the Altar, The Heads of S. Peter and S. Paul. but also for an Arca to the Heads of S. Peter and S. Paul which are kept within it, and shown there to the people upon great days through an iron grate which environs them. 5. The Altar of the B. Sacrament adorned by the cost of Clement the VIII, With a curious and precious Tabernacle of rich polished stones, and with four pillars of brass guilt, about fifteen foot high. Over this Altar is the Table itself upon which our Saviour eat the Paschal Lamb before his Passion, and then presently instituted the Holy Sacrament, of which the Paschal Lamb was but a figure. 6. The brazen Tomb of Martin the V, of the house of Colonna, who was chosen Pope in the Council of Constance. 7. The Tomb of Alexander the III, of the house of Bandinelli in Sienna, neatly adorned by Pope Alexander the VII, who took his name of Alexander from him. 8. The Tomb of Laurentius Valla a learned Roman, and canon of this Church; of whom, as the restorer of pure Latin language after Gotick Barbarousness, Latonius sung thus: Apud ●um in Elog. doctor. viror. Romulus est Vrbis, Valla est idiomatis author: Hic reparat primus, primus ut ille str●it. 9 In old Gotick Letters upon the Architrave of the porch of this Church you read these Leonine verses, Dogmate Papali datur ac simul Jmperiali. Quòd sim Cunctarum Mater & Caput Ecclesiarum. 10. In the Cloister of this Church, I saw the Chair of Porphiry, which useth to be placed near to the Great door of the Church on that day the Pope taketh possession of his charge in this Church; in which Chair the Pope is placed a while, and at his rising from it again, the Choir sings this verse of the 112 Psalm, Suscitat de puluere egenum & de stercore eregit pauperem: and this Ceremony and pierced Chair are only to put the Pope in mind of his humane infirmities, Caeremia le Roma num l. 1 sect. 2. c. 3. amidst His glorious exaltations, and the people's applauses. For so also the Greek Emperors on the day of their coronation, had a great many marble stones, of several colours, presented to them, to choose which of them they would, to make their Tomb of. This was, Zenar. and Cedrens. to put them in mind of their mortality amidst those great honours. But it's strange to see how the enemies of the Popes, give out maliciously, that this Chair (whose use we see so plainly in the vety Ceremonial of Rome) was only intended, ad explorandum sexum, and to hinder the inconueniency of another Pope joanne. For this reason I think it not amiss to examine a little this fable of a she Pope, or of a Pope joanne. I am not afraid at all to call this a fable, The Fable of Pope joanne. both for the unlikeliness of it in general; as also for the suspected authority of its first broachers; the contrarietyes in the story; and the little credit given unto it by the learnedest adversary's of the Roman Church. First, what can be more unlikely than that a woman should surprise such a wise nation as the Italians are, Vnlikeliness of this fable. and so grossly? what more unlikely, then that a woman should pass her youth in those severe studies, which are required in Popes, without being known to have wronged, or discovered her sex; and that she must just do it, when she was in a declineing age, at which age Popes ordinarily are chosen? What more unlikely, then that a woman finding herself great with child, should venture to go so far a foot in a procession? What more unlikely, then that, if there had been such a she Pope, the Greek Church (which then was at odds with the Roman Church) should have passed it over in silence, and not have obraided her with such a disgraceful Pastor, especially seeing the Roman Church had obraided the Greek Church with having an Eunuch for her chief Patriarch? What in fine more unlikely than that there should have been such a she Pope so publicly convinced to have been a woman, & that Anastasius Bibliothecarius who wort the lives of the Popes some thirty years after that pretended time, and who must have lived in her time, speaks nothing of any such woman, Enemies charge no proof. or any such strange accident? Secondly, the first broachers of this story make it Very much suspected, seeing Martinus Polonus, and some others of the Emperor's faction (than at Variance with the Popes) are the first that mentioned this fable: and Platina, Hearsay no conviction who quotes no higher authors for it, grounds a story of this consequence upon no better authority than a weak, si dice, us fay. Thirdly, the apparent contradictions in the Tale, Contradiction in the tale, a sign of falsity. convince it of falsity: as that this joanne was an English woman borne in Mentz, which all men know to be a Rhenish town in Germany: and that she had studied at Athenes in Greece, which long before this time had been destroyed. Fourthly, the little credit given to it by the learnedest adversary's of the Roman Church, Adversaries confess it to be a fable. to wit, four prime Ministers of France (who take this history for a mere fable) proves sufficiently that its worse than an old wife's tale. For M. Blondel a French Minister (whom I knew in Paris above twenty years ago) and a man of that account there, that he was chosen to answer the learned book of Cardinal Peron: this Blondel, I say, made a book in French (printed at Amsterdam by Bleau Anno 1647 in octavo) On purpose to show, that this story of a she Pope called Joanne, was a mere fable. And that we may not think that Blondel alone of all Protestant Ministers, held this for a Fable, Monsieur Serravius a great Caluinist and counsellor of the Parliament of Paris, in a letter of his to Salmasius, having mentioned to him this book of Blondel, addeth these words: Epist. Serravii Noli autem credere primum aut solum è nostris Blondellum ita sensisse: quamuis Fortassis nemo unquam fortius & pressius istud solum conclaveait. Fuere enim in eadem sententia non incelebres inter Reformatos Theologi: & adhuc vigent in hac Vrbe insignes fide & pietate viri, Chamier. qui audierunt ex ore Camerii, se istam historiam Vulgo creditam, fabulosis deputare. Vidi nuper scriptas literas docti & vegeti senis, tibique & mihi amicissimi, Petri Molinaei, Du Moulin. quibus idem semper sibi esse visum affirmabat. Penes me sunt literae Samuelis Bocharti, Bochart. quibus testatur sibi esse pro comperto vanum & fictitium, quicquid hactenus de ea sit proditum. Thus Monsieur Serravius in a private letter (though his son after his death printed his litters) to a friend of the same religion: And thus you see, how this fable maintained highly a long time by the Adversaries of the Roman Church, expired at last (as all lies do) and was carried to its grave upon the shoulders of four French Ministers, Blondel, Chamier, du Moulin, and Bochart. If I have been a little too long in this digression you will pardon me: We are all debtors to Truth; and all men ought to be glad to see themselves disabused. The Bapistery of Constantine. Going out of the little back door of this Church, I went to see the Baptistery of Constantin the Great, Our most Noble Countryman, and the first Emperor that publicly professed Christianity. This Baptistery is built round, and in the centre of it, in a descent of four steps, stands the very Font, in which the said Emperor was baptised by Pope Sylvester. It's environed with low rails of marble, and adorned with ten, or twelve great pillars of Porphyry (the fairest in Rome) which bear up the painted Vault over the Font: so that people standin about these rails, may see conveniently the baptizeing of Jews and Infidels in the pit below. Upon the Walls of the round Chapel, are painted in Fresco, the most memorable actions of Constantin the Great: as his Vision of the Cross in the air, with these words above it, In hoc signo Vinces: his overcomeing the Tyrant Maxentius; his baptism here by S. Silvester: his burning the Libels against Catholic Bishops, preferred to him by the Arrians: his kissing the wounds of those good Bishop in the Council of Nice, who had either their fingers cut off, or one eye put out by the Tyrants. On the other side of S. john Lateran's Church, stands the Scala Santa, The Scala Santa. and the Sancta Sanctorum. The Scala Santa is called from the stairs, twenty eight in all, up which our Saviour was led in this passion to Pilat's house. Upon some of them you see the places where the precious blood of our Saviour had fallen: and for that reason they are covered with little grates of brass, which let in eyes, but keep of knees: I say knees; for none go up these holy stairs otherwise then kneeling, and this out of reverence to him who often fell upon his knees, as he was draggd up and down these stairs. It's painful enough to go up these stairs upon your knees; yet I saw it done hourly in the jubily year, by continual flocks of devout people both men and women; of great condition as well as of great deuotion▪ these holy stairs were Sent from Jerusalem to Constantin the Great, by his Moter Queen Helen, together with many other Relics kept in S. john Lateran's Church. They are of whit marble, and above six foot long. The sancta Sanctorum. At the head of these stairs stands the Chapel called Sancta Sanctorum, because of the Holy things kept in it. Hence over the Altar in this Chapel, are written these words. Non est in toto Sanctior Orbe Locus. Upon the Altar is kept the miraculous picture of our Saviour, it represents him about thirteen years old, See Pancirola. and only his half body. It's about a foot & a half long: and it's said to have been begun by S. Luke, but ended miraculously by an Angel. Others say, Lib. Della Nottia de Vocaboli Ecclesiastici, in verbo Achyropoeta. that S. Luke having only prepared the ground, and before he had drawn one stroke, fell to his prayers to beg of God that he might draw his Son right, and rising up again he found his picture already finished. Hence Domenico Magri (a learned Antiquary) is of opinion, that this pisture of our Saviour is that very picture which Anastasius B●bliothecarius in the life of Steven the TWO, calls Achyropaeta, that is, made without hands. Round about this picture goes a set of great jewels enriching the frame of it. Under the Altar reposeth the body of S. Anastasius, of whose head and picture I spoke above in the description of the Church of this Saint at the Tre Fontane. Here are also kept the Heads of S. Agnes and S. Praxedes, with many other precious Relics. Anciently, (as the Records here mention) the Holy Prepuce, or Foreshin of our Saviour was kept here too: but being taken away in the sack of Rome, by one of Bourbons soldiers, it was left in a a country town called Calcata, Calcata. some fifteen wiles distant from Rome by the same soldier, Menochio Centuria 1. c. 10. who could not rest day nor night, as long as he had that relic about him. I once passed by that town (Calcata) by chance, and by the civilityes of the Lord of the town, Count of Anguillara, at whose house we were nobly entertained all night, had the happiness the next morning, to see this precious Relic through the crystal case: This Count keeps one key of it, and the Parish Priest the other, without both which it cannot be seen. Triclinium Leonis Near to the Scala Santa is seen a famous piece of Antiquity of Christian Rome, called Triclinium Leonis: where is seen a Mosaic picture of our Saviour resuscitated, and holding out a book to his Disciples, in which are written these words: Pax vobis: Peace be to you: Which picture Leo caused to be made eight hundred years ago, as an emblem of his peaceable return again to his seat, after he had been chased out by his enemies. Upon a pillar on the right hand, is painted our Saviour sitting upon a Throne, and giving with one hand, the Keys of the Church to S. Peter, and with the other, the Imperial standard to Constantin the Great. Upon the other pillar on the left hand, is represented in Mosaic work also, S. Peter sitting in a Chair, and with one hand giving unto Pope Leo the III the Papal stole; and with the other, the Imperial standard unto Charlemain, who had restored this Pope Leo to his seat again. From hence passing again by S. john Lateran● Church, I saw first, the palace of the Pope here, built by Sixtus Quintus: then the great Guglia (with Egyptian Hyeroglyphes figured upon it) which had stood anciently in the Circus Maximus: it's above 100 foot high, & was brought from Alexandria to Rome by Constantin the Great▪ last in a low room joining to the Church, I saw the Statue in Bronze of Henry the IV of France, set up here by the Canons of S. john Lateran's, for having caused ten thousand crowns a year to be restorest to this Church, which was due to it in France. I looked also into the fair Hospital which stands hard by the foresaid Church, The Hospital of S. john Lateran's. and so well served and tended, that many person of quality in their sickness desire to be transferred hither, that they may be better looked to, than they can be at home. S. Stefano Rotondo. Takeing the wall of the old Aquiduct of Claudius along with me I went to San Stefano Rotondo, standing upon the Mount Caelius too. This Church now belongs to the Seminarists of the Germane College. Upon the round walls are painted curiously the martyrdoms of ancient martyrs, with the divers instruments of the Heathens, wherewith they tormented the poor Christians. S. Maria in Navicella. Over against this Church stands the Church of Santa Maria della Navicella, so called from a little stone ship which stands before it, being a vow of certain boatmen. This Church in ancient authors, is called in Dominica, or in Ciriaca because of a holy woman called Ciriaca, in whose house here, S. Laurence distributed all the Church goods, he as Deacon had in his hands, unto the poor. Villa Mathei. Hard by stands the Villa of the Duke Matthei, where I saw the neat house full of curious statues, and crusted on the outside with rare anticaglie. Among the rest I took particular notice of the Heads of Brutus and Porcia, man & wife in one stone: the statues of Cleopatra: of Hercules: of three little boys sleeping and hugging one another: the head of Cicero rarely well cut: the statue of Marcus Aurelius. A rare table of precious stones. In an other house here (looking towards San Sisto) I saw the incomparable Statue of Andromeda exposed to the Sea Monster, it's of pure white marble, and of the hand of Oliviero. That other there of Apollo flaying Marsias, is an excellent piece too, and in white marble: so is also that of the Satire pluking a thorn out of his foot. The curious alley, water-works, grotts, walks, wetting places, and the intricate labyrinth, are all very delightsome. Descending from hence I went to the old Amphitheatre, The Amphiteat●r. called now the Coliseo, because of a Colossean statue that stood in it. This is one of the rarest pieces of antiquity in Rome; and though Rome be grown again, by her new palaces, one of the finest Cities of Europe, yet her very ruins are finer than her new buildings. And though I am not ignorant how Rome, since her Ladyship governed the world, and was at her greatness, hath been six several times ruined, Rome sacked six times. and sacked, by the envy and avarice of barbarous nations (Visegoths, Wandals, Erules, Ostrogoths, Totila who set fire on Rome 18 days together, and the Germans under Bourbon) whose malice was so great against Rome, Vesari in prefa that of thirty six Triumphal Arches once in Rome, there remain but four now visibly appearing; that often Thermae anciently, but two remain any way visible; that of seven Circos, but one now appears▪ yet as of fair Ladies, there remain even in their old age, fair rests of comeliness: so the very ruins of Rome which malice could not reach to, nor avarice carry away, are yet so comely, that they ravish still the beholder's eye with their beauties, Pliny. and make good the saying of an ancient author, that Roma iacens quoque miraculo est: Rome is a miracle even in its ruins. But to return to the Coliseo; it's an other wonder of the world: and I wonder indeed, how such prodigious stones could either be laid together in a building, Omnis Caesareo cedat Labor Amphitheatro; unum pro cunctis fama loquatur opus. or being laid together, could fall. Vespasian began it; but Domitian finished it; and Martial flattered it as a wonder which outstripped all the wonders of Egypt, and its Pyramids. It was of a prodigious height, as that part of it yet standing showeth. The form of it was round without, & oval within, and the out side of it was adorned with tho three orders of pillars; great Arches below, open galleries above, both to walk in, and to let people into the Amphitheatre, and out again without crowding: so that two hundred thousand people could go in, or out, in half an hour's time, with out crowding. Within, it went up from below by steps of stone unto the top: and afforded room enough to all that world of people, to sit conveniently, and see the combats and sports that were exhibited in the Arena. Anciently the top of it was set round with Statues; and in time of great heats or reins, it was all endeavoured with great sails. From its roundish form it got the name of Amphitheatre, from seeing on all sides. Underneath were the caves for the wild beasts, out of which they turned them loose to fight, sometimes against condemned men; sometimes against innocent Christians. Nero made the Christians be clad in the skins of beasts; and so to be exposed to Lions and Bears. Sometimes also gladiators fought against gladiators; and one gladiator against twenty others: nay the very noble Romans themselves would now and then fight here publicly, either to show sport. or valour. And all this was done by the politic Romans, to teach men not to be afraid of bloodshed and death in time of wars, with which they had been so acquainted in time of peace. The old round rubbage of brick which is here near the Anphitheater, was anciently a fine Fountain called Meta Sudans, Meta S serving for the use of those that came to the sports here. It was all faced with marble, and had a Statue of Jupiter of brass upon it. Hard by stands the Triumphal Arch of Constantin the Great. The Thriumphal Arch of Constantin the great. It's all of marble, with a world of curious statues anciently, but now headless, and with histories in bassi rilievi. It was erected to him in memory of his victory over the Tyrant Maxentius, as to the Freer of the City, and Founder of public Quiet. As the words here import, Liberatori Vrbis, Fundatori Quietis. From hence I went to the Church of S. John and Paul; and thene to S. Gregory's Church, S. Gregory's Church. which anciently had been his house. They show us yet the place, and the table, where this holy man, in recompense of his charitable hospitality to the poor, deserved to have an Angel, and the Lord of Angels for his guests. He treated daily here 12 poor men, in honour of the 12 Apostles. In one of the Chapels you see a fine statue of white marble of S. Gregory, in his Pontifical robes; it was erected to his honour by Cardinal Baronius, who was a devout admirer of him. In the garden belonging to the monastery of S. Gregory, there is to be seen a Cave in which I saw upon the wall some old painting of the highest times of Pagan Rome: pitiful stuff, yet considerable for its ancientness. From hence I went to the Baths or Thermae, Antoninus' his Baths. of the Emperor Antoninus, looking more like a town, than a bathing place. Indeed Ammianus Marcellinus out throws me, and calls these, and the other Thermae in Rome, Lavacra in modum Provinciarum exstructa: Bathing places built like provinces. And judge whether of us hath more reason, by that which we read in the Exceptis Olymp●odori, where it's said, that these baths of Antoninus had a thousand six hundred seats of polished marble; for as many persons to sit and bathe in a part: nay, some of those bathing places were paved with silver, and were adorned so curiously with silver pipes for the water, with statues, pictures, and precious stones, that Seneca cries out: Eo deliciarum Venimus, ut nisi gemmas cal●●re nolimus; we are come to that delicacy that we scorn to trend upon any thing but jewels: Now these baths serve only for the Roman Seminarists to recreate in. Returning from hence between the Mount Auentin and the Mount Palatin, Circus Maximus. I saw the place where the Circus Maximus stood. This was the greatest of all the Circos in Rome, as its name shows. It was begun by Tarqvinius Priscus, but afterwards much augmented by julius Caesar, and Augustus. It was three stades long, and four acres wide (The Roman stade was 625 foot, or 125 paces) At last it was adorned with statues, and pillars by Traian and Heliogabulus. A hundred and fifty thousand men could sit conveniently in the three open galleryes. One of which was for the Senators, the second for the gentlemen, and the third for the common people. The two great Obelicks, to wit, that before Porta del Populo, and that before S. john Lateran's stood in it. Under this building were many Vaulted Caves called in Latin, Fornices, where lewd women prostituted themselves for money, and so from these Fornices came the word Fornication. Going from hence to S. George's Church, I saw on my right hand, the goodly ruins of the Emperor's palace, The Emperor's Palace. called Palazzo Maggiore. It possessed almost all the Palatin hill, as the ruins show. Stately ruins I confess: but ruins, and Imperial ruins. And here I could not but wonder to see, the palace of the persecuting Emperors ruined quite, and the Church of the poor Fisherman standing still, more glorious than ever. Before I came to S. George's Church I stepped into S. Anastasias' Church, which was anciently the Temple of Neptune: and from thence to the old square Temple, commonly held to be the Temple of janus Quadrifrons: Templum jani. and with some reason, because it hath four doors in it, and twelve Niches upon every side of the squar out side. The four doors represented the four Seasons of the year: the twelve niches, the twelve months of the year: yet others will have it to have been only an Arch, or Portick▪ or a Lodge: S. and while they dispute it ●lego on to S. George's Church. George's Church hard by to which Church is joined on old Arch curiously carved in marble, which was erected here, by the merchants, or goldsmiths, to the Emperor's Severus, and M. Aurelius. Near unto this Church of S. George came anciently the water of Tiber: and this water or creek of the river, was called Velabrum, The Velabrum. because men passed over the river here by boat, and sometime with a little sail, when the wind stood fair. From hence I went to the round Church of S. Theodoro standing in the Foro Boario. Forum Boarium. This was anciently the Temble of Romulus and Remus, because it was here that those two brothers where exposed, and nourished by a she wolf which found them here. Not far from hence I stepped into the Hospital of our Lady of Consolation. This was once the Temple of Vesta. The Tomple of Vesta. And here it was that the Vestal Virgins (instituted by Numa) kept the Eternal fire; the extinguishing of which was held by the superstitious Heathnes, fatal to the state; and therefore they commited the keeping of this fire to Virgins of great repute and honour. The Vestal Virgins. These Virgins were to be ten years in learning their profession, ten years more in exerciseing it, and other ten years more in teaching it to others. See Plutark in Numa. And for this reason, they had great privileges given them. For if in going up and down the City, they met by chance, a criminel man going to be executed, they had power to free him. If any of these Vestals forgetting herself had wronged her Virginity, they would not, out of reverence to her profession, lay Violent hands on her by the common executioner, but they buried her alive in a low vault made for the nonce. From hence I entered into the Campo Vaccino, The Campo Vaccino. The Temple of jupiter Stator. and presently fell upon three pillars of admirable structure: They helondg to the Temple of jupiter Stator built by Romulus: The occasion was this. Romulus in a battle against the Sabins, seeing his men give back, made a vow presently to jupiter that if he would stop their flight and make them stand to it, he would build him a Temble: Siste foedam fugam, said he to Jupiter: The men stood, and the Temple was built to jupiter stator who made men stand. But this jupiter Stator could not make his own Temple stand; for it's now so ruined, that antiquaries are scarce sure where it stood. Close to these three pillars stands the Church of Santa Maria Liberatrice at the fott of the Pallatin hill. Why this Church is so called, both a long writing in the Church, Ad an 324▪ and Baronius in his Annals, tell at length. Near to this Church stood the Lacus C●rtii, Lacus Curtij. a stinking puddle which annoyed the Romans much, and which the Oracle assured was not to be stopped up but by casting into it the most precious thing in Rome. Hereupon the Ladies threw in their best jewels; and the noblemen every one what he had the most precious, but all in Vain. At last Curtius a brave young nobleman, thinking that there was nothing more precious than a gallant man; mounting on horseback in a brave equipage, in sight of all the people, jumped into this Lake alive, as a victim devoted to his country's service; See Tit. Livius and others and the hole hereupon closed. I confess, a brave Cavalier is a precious jewel indeed: and I remember that a Roman Lady having showed her jewels to Cornelia the mother of the Grachi, and having desired her to show also her jewels, she called for her two young sons (brave youths) and said; here Madam, are my jewels: The finest Jewels. and in my opinion, Curtius was somewhat vainglorious, to think himself to be the bravest man in the City: if the Votes and judgement of all the people had declared him to be so (as they did afterwards declare Scipio Nasita to be the best man of all the Romans; and the matrons declared sulpitia to be the chastest matron of her time) than he might have devoted himself more freely for his countries' safety. Going on from hence on the right hand still, I came to the door of Farneses' garden. Farneses' garden. This garden stands upon the Mount Palatin where anciently the Emperors had their Palace; which took up all the upper part of this hill, but not all the skirts of it: for I find, that the Goddess Fever, and the Goddess Viriplaca had their Temples here, and Catalin and Cicero their houses. Entering into this Garden I found some pretty water-works and grottes at the entrance, and fine high walks above, overlooking the place where the Circus Maximus stood anciently. The scholars of the English College in Rome have a piece of this Hill for their Vinia and recreation place, The English Vineyard. to breathe on upon days of Vacancy. The Arch of Titus. Following still my right hand, I came to the Arch of Titus: a Triumphal Arch erected to him upon his victory over the jews. Hence you see here engraven in mezzo rilievo the said Emperor in a Triumphant Chariot: and on the other side, the Holy Candlestick of the Temple of Jerusalem, the Ark of the Alliance, and the Tables of the Law, which this Emperor brought with him after his taking of Jerusalem, to grace his Triumph. This is the most ancient Triumphal Arch in Rome, and it stood in the Via Sacra which went under it. Wheeling about the Campo Vaccino, still on the right hand, I came to the Church of Sancta Francesca Romana, The Church of S. Francesca Romana. otherwise called Santa Maria Nuova. Here I saw the neat Tomb of that Sa●nt in brass guilt, made at the cost of Pope Innocent the X. Heres also cut in white marble, and standing upon an Altar the history of the Pope's returning again to Rome from Auignon. I saw also here a rare suit of hangings belonging to this Church, and given by the Sister of Pope Innocent the X. Hard by, stands the Temple of Peace, The Temple of peace. that is, some remnants of that Temple. It was once the most noble of all the Temples (as the pillar before S. Marie Mayor Great door, which belonged to this Temple, showeth) It was 200 foot large, and 300 long: but now little signs of its beauty remain: wars and time defacing the monuments of Peace. It was built by Vespasian who placed in it the spoils of the Temple of Jerusalem brought to Rome by Titus. Behind this Temple stands a neat garden belonging once to Cardinal Pio, where I saw neat water works. It's now sold to another master. Going on still in the Campo Vaccino on the right hand, I came to the round Church of S. Cosmo and S. Damiano, The Church of S. Cosmo & Damiano. anciently the Temple of Castor and Pollux: because the Romans having seen two men upon sweeting horses, that told them news of a battle won by their Consul, and so vanished, they imagined them to be Castor and Pollux, and thereupon decreed them this Temple. The Masaick work in the roof of the Tribune deserves your particular attention, for the Symbolical figures sake. Going on still, I came to the Church of S. Lorenzo in Miranda. S. Lorenzo in Miranda. It was once a Temple dedicated to Faustina the Empress by her husband Antoninus Poor man! he could not make an honest woman in her life-time, Messia in vita M. Aurelij: and Sabellic lib. 4. c. 11. and yet he would needs make her a Goddess after her death. The Portch of this Church is stately still, by reason of its great marble pillars. A little further stands the Church of S. Adriano, S. Adriano. anciently dedicated to Saturn who first taught the Italians to make Money, & therefore the Romans placed their Aerarium publicum, The Public Treasury in this Temple, and had their Mint hard by it. S. Martinas Church follows the next; and in a low Chapel, neatly adorned, I saw her Tomb; Here stood anciently the Temple of Mars the Revenger. Before this Church stands the Triumphal Arch of Septimius Severus rarely cut with figures in marble in mezzo rilievo. The Triumphal Arch of Severus. Half of it is buried under ground, the other half is sore battered with the air. Who would think the air and the Earth to be devouring elements, as well as the fire and the water? But why do I accuse the Air, when its only Time (which taketh a pride to triumph our Triumphs) that hath bettered this Triumphal Arch, and moultered even marble? A little higher on the hill side stands the little Church of S. Joseph, S. Joseph's where I saw in the low grotte underneth, the prison called anciently Tullianum, The Tullianum. into which prison S. Peter and S. Paul where shut up. I descended into the low dungeon where S. Peter baptised Processus and Martinianus, his two keepers, with divers others. The Fountain of water that sprung up miraculously for that holy function, is still seen there in the bottom of that dungeon. Many other brave buildings stood anciently in this Foro Romano, worth remembering, as the Comitium, The Comitium. or public place of assembly; so called a coeundo: it being the Great Hall of justice, in which was erected a large Tribunal, were the Praetor (our Lord Chief Justice) sat in an ivory chair, called Cella Curulis, and ministered justice to the people. In this Comitium stood the Statue of Horatius Cocles; and in the corners of it, those of Pythagoras and Alcibiades. In this Foro also, stood the Rostra (a great Pulpit made of the Rostra or brazen snouts of the ships won from the Antiates) where Orators used to plead, and were Tully thundered. Behind the Rostra stood Romulus his Tomb, and before the Rostra, the Tomb of Faustulus the Foster Father of Romulus. Mounting up from hence to the Capitol by the Coach way, I saw, upon the side of the Hill, the pillars that belonged once to the Temple of Concord, built by Camilus, and not far from hence, three other pillars of neat Fabric which belonged to the Temple of jupiter Tonans, Thundering jupiter, built there by Augustus Cesar, after he had escaped a thunderclap which killed his Litterman close by him. Arriving at the Capitol, The Capitol. I was glad to see that place, so famous in the Roman story. It's name of Capitol came from the Head of a man (caput in Latin) found underground when they first laid the foundation here of the Temple of jupiter Capitolinus. justus Lypsius, as if he had been the Godfather of that man whose head was found here, saith, that his name was Tolus, and that from Caput Toli came Capitolium. This head found here portended, that Rome should one day be the head of the world. And this title is so universally known to belong to Rome, that all authors affirm it, and every petty artisan in Rome, will tell you so, though in false Latin, as one did me, when hearing me praise Rome, and thinking that I did it not enough, cried out to me, half in Italian, and half in Latin; Caspitra, Signore, Roma est capus mundi▪ which saying made me both smile, and say to myself, that such a Head as this fellows, found now underground, would portend the ruin of the Latin tongue. Rupes Tarpeia. I went first to the highest part of that Hill, called anciently Rupes Tarpeia. It looks down upon the Theatre of Marcellus; and is nothing so high a hill as I conceived when I first read Livy. For I expected to have found here a hill at least like that in India called Dorin, which Curtius describes, Munster paints out, and Hercules could not take; but coming to it, I found it to be a hill of that easy ascent, that I had ridden up far higher in Savoy and Switzerland. The Equestris statue of Marcus Aurelius. 2. Then returning the same way again to the piazza of the Capitol, I saw there the famous Equestris Statue of Marcus Aurelius, once guilt over, but now appearing to be plain brass. This is the noblest statue in the world; and I was going to say, the noblest statue living; for it seems almost to live and breath by the workman's art: it is noble also because it represents a man so noble as Marcus Aurelius, who was a double Emperor, being both a great Emperor and a great Philosopher. Hard by this Equestris statue are seen two Colossean statues, pouring out two rivers, the one representing Nilus, the other Tigris. Over them stands a statue of Rome something like Pallas, her face is of white marble, her garments of Porphiry. 3. The trophies of Marius. I saw the Trophies of Marius cut anciently in stone in honour of that great General, who from a common soldier came by his warlike virtue, to be seven times Consul. 4. I viewed the two great statues of Constantin the Great in white marble, with the Horses. 5. I saw the Milliarum, The Milliarium, that is, a little pillar of stone with a great round brazen ball upon it. This pillar stood anciently in the Fore Romano before S. Adrian's Church and it was erected by Augustus Caesar. It was called Milliarium because from it the Romans counted the miles, that were from Rome to every great City of Italy, or of the Empire, and the first mile distant from this pillar, was called primus ab Vrbe Lapis; and so of the rest. The Conseruatorio. 6. Then entering into the Conseruatorio, that is the palace of the Conseruatori or Senators, I saw there the Statues of julius Caesar & Augustus Caesar. Then in the little court I saw marked up upon the out wall in a marble stone, the Roman measures, as their Canna, Palmo &c. (as we have all measured by the Elle, and yard.) that all merchants may know where to find whether his measures be lawful and just, or no. Then the foot, hand, thighs, and head, in marble scattered here and there in this court, yet all looking as if they had belonged to the great Colossus of Apollo, made by the command, of Lucullus. Then the rare statue of a Lion tearing a horse. The Tomb of Mammea, and Alexander Severus her son, with the rape of the Sabines upon it in a basso rilievo. The little Egyptian Idol set high up over this tomb. The head of the Emperor Commodus in brass, with a hand of the same. 7. Hard by the stairfoot as you mount up to the Chambers, stands the Colonna Rostrata, Colonna Rostrata. a marble pillar some twelve foot high, decked with stems of ships cut in marble, and sticking out of the pillar, with an Inscription in the bassis below in scurvy old Latin. I found it spoke of a Sea Victory won over he Carthaginians, and of Duilius; and I cared for no more, because Livy, in better Latin, tells me the rest: to wit, that it was Dulius that of all the Romans got the first Naval Victory; and then I easily concluded, that this pillar was erected to him for that service. It's almost as hard a thing to construe this old Latin, as to have won that Victory; and therefore I'll leave the words to Petrus Ciaconius a phlegmatic spaniard, to comment upon. Yet I learned out of this left handed Latin, this observation, that the brave Romans of the highest times, cared more to do well, then to speak well; and that the Roman commonwealth was turning towards her decline, when fine language was in vogue. 8. Hard by this pillar stand mounted two little quarter Cannons: a poor Arsenal for the Roman Senators now a days. M. Aurelius his Triumph 9 Then mounting up some ten steps, I came into a little Court whose walls are all encrusted over with four excellent pieces of Marcus Aurelius his Triumph cut in marble. In one of them he triumpheth in his open chariot: in another he sacrificeth: in another he giveth largesses to the People. In the forth he receiveth the presents of the Romans. They are all so well cut that you doubt whether it be the Emperor, or the Sculptor that triumphs here. Indeed the Emperor's Chariot hath got new wheels, of late, and his horses new shoes and feet, else all is old. 10. Then going up the stairs higher, I saw an old plate of brass, Leges Decem Tabularum. nayed up, in which the Roman Laws of the ten tables, were written: good Laws, but few. And I was glad to see them yet kept: if that be to keep laws, to keep them nailed fast to the Wall. 11. Then entering into the Chambers and great Hall, I saw the statues of Alexander Farnese Duke of Parma: of M. Antonius Colonna the Pope's General in the battle of Lepanto: and of Don john of Austria Generalissimo. I saw upon the walls painted in fresco, the rapt of the Sabins, the duel of the tergimini Fratres, three brothers against three brothers, Horatij against Curiatij: Scevola holding his hand over the burning coals: Cocles defending the bridge alone against an army of men: Scipio, and Hannibal with their several armies, so rarely painted by Pietro Perugino that the Romans now are in love with Hannibal. Then the picture of the first Consul Brutus commanding the death of his own Son: that of the Tarquinii: that of the conquering of the Sabins &c. all pieces as bold as the very actions they represent. Here also in the other Chambers, I saw some fine statues, as that of Caius Marius; that of Hercules in brass being but yet a lad; That of junius Brutus in brass; the heads in marble of Diogenes, Plato, Socrates: the Statues of Cicero, Virgil, and Plato; the brazen statue of the Wolf that gave suck to Romulus and Remus. But the best statue here, is that of the young man picking a thorn out of his foot. It's only of brass, but worth its weight in gold. The story of it is this. A young foot post bringing letters of singular importance unto the Senate, and pricking his foot as he ran, would not stay to pick out the thorn; but hastening to Rome with all speed, delivered his letters in full Senate prodigiously soon, as it appeared by their dates. But then clapping himself down upon the ground before them all, he began to pick out the thorn, in the posture you see him here. The Senate seeing the haste he had made, and the pain he had endured, decreed presently that his statue in that posture, should be erected in the Capitol. Thus the old Romans not having then recompenses enough for well deserving men, or else not willing to recompense them otherwise, persuaded men, that no recompense was like to that of a statue in the Capitol, or to walk up and down the streets with a crown of Laurel, or Oak leaves upon their heads. Poor fools! Was a crown of leaves such an honour, when even bawdy houses and privyes, Saith Tertullian, Tertul. de Corona Milit. Were crowned too? Or was it such a solid honour to have a statue in the Capitol, when geese, and wolf's were honoured so too? But quod rarum, charum est. Seneca l. 1. de Benefi. c. 13. And as Alexander the Great hearing that the Corinthians would make him a Citizen of their town, scorned it at first: but after he had been assured that they never offered that honour to any man but to Hercules and him, he was well pleased with that offer: so the rarity of having a statue in the Capitol being an honour granted to few, and those well deserving men, made men think it the highest of recompenses. Among those few, where Scipio, for having overcomne Antiochus: Aemilius Lepidus for having, while he was but yet a boy, freed a Roman citizen in a battle: Metellus for saving the Palladium out of the burning Temple of Vestae: Cornelia for having furnished corn to the people in a dearth, out of her own moneys, and some few others. Having thus seen the Capitol, I went into the Noble Church of Ara Caeli which is joining to the Capitol upon the same hill, Ara Caeli. and built in the same place where anciently stood the Temple of jupiter Capitolinus, or Jupiter Feretrius. Here it was the Sibylle showed unto Augustus Caesar, at the birth of our Saviour, that a greater Lord than he was borne; where upon Augustus forbade, that any man should call him Lord from that time forward. In this Church is the Tomb of S. Helen Mother of Constantin the Great. Descending from hence by the marble stairs, The jesuits Church. which are a hundred in all, and all so large, that twelve men in a breast may go up at once, I came to the Jesuits Church and house called the Casa Professa. The Church is neat and capacious, the Chapels well painted, and the ornaments in the Vestery Very rich. Under the Altar where S. Ignatius his picture is, lies the body of that Saint, Founder of the Order of the jesuits. Near the high Altar on the Gospel side is the Tomb of Cardinal Bellarmin. In the house of these Fathers I saw the Chamber of S. Ignatius, now turned into a Chapel: and a fair Library. Passing from hence, I stepped into the Palace of S. Mark, S. Marks Palace. belonging to the state of Venice, and the lodging place always of the Venetian Ambassadors resideing in the Court of Rome. This palace, as also that of the Cancellaria, and that of Farnese, are said to have been built of the stones that were taken from the great Amphitheatre; and yet a great part of it remanes still; and I I believe, as much as would make three more such palaces. From S. Marks Palace I went towards the Mount Quirinal now called Monte Cavallo, and as I went, passed through that part of the town which anciently was called Forum Traiani, and there saw that which Traian himself never saw, to wit, the wonderful pillar of white marble erected there to Traian, and therefore called Colonna Traiana, Colonna Traiana but never seen by him: for he died in foreign expeditions returning from Persia without ever seeing it. This pillar is made of four and twenty great stones of marble, in which are carved the exploits of Traian, especially in his wars against the Dacians. It's a hundred twenty eight foot high, without its basis which is twelve foot high. Within it there are a hundred fourscore and five stairs, which deliver you up to the top of it, and there are forty little windows which let in light enough for you to go up. On the top of all this pillar where anciently buried the ashes of Traian the Emperor: but Sixtus Quintus caused, in place of them, the statue in brass guilt of S. Peter to be set up here. Here to fore all the basis of it was buried under ground in the ruins, but now they have diggd about it and cleared it; yet by this we may see how much the streets of Rome are higher than they were; Rome now being built upon the ruins of Rome. From hence going up the hill I came to the Palace and garden of Aldobrandini. The Palace of Aldobrandini. The house is but little yet neatly furnished with statues and pictures. Some whereof are these: An old picture made in the time of the Pagans representing a marriage after the old Romans fashion. I take this to be the ancientest picture in Rome, and the rarity of it is so great, that Cavalier Pozzo (a brave Gentleman and a great Virtuoso,) got leave to copy it out, and this copy is to be seen in the house of his brother, among other rare curiosities, near S. Andrea della Valle. Next after this, I was shown in the foresaid palace, the true picture of Martin Luther: a rare S. Sebastian in the Chapel, of Raphael's hand: Upon the stairs a statue of a man hanging by the hands, with great stones at his feet weighing him down: a torment much used by the Heathens, and practised by them upon Christians: with a world of other pictures and statues in the Chambers. The palace of Mazzarini. From hence I went to Cardinal Mazzarinis Palace; and there saw in the garden, the famous picture of the Aurora made by Guido Rhent famous over all Rome. In the court of this Palace I saw the best riding Masters of Rome teach young Gentleman to ride the Great horse: but I found them here far short of the masters in France, both for good horses, and good scholars, and graceful riding. In the same Court in the summer evenings, they play at ballon, a manly exercise much used in Italy, and far more gentile than our rude football sport. Near to this palace stand the Pope's stables where I saw all the Genets that had been presented to the Pope, The Pope's stables. since his creation, by the king of Spain for the kingdom of Naples; every year one, with a purse of gold. The other horses here were only coach horses; for when the Pope goes any whither abroad upon public ceremony, the Cardinals, and Prelates upon Mules, and the noble men of Rome upon their own horses, wait upon him: and when he goes out of town his own horse guards attend him. From hence I was presently in the piazza of Montecavallo, Monte Cavallo. where I saw the two famous horses in marble, with each one a man holding him, they were sent to Nero for a present by Tiridates king of Armenia. In the Pedestal of the these statues are written, under The one of them Opus Phidiae: under the other, Opus Praxitelis. It's said that these two horses and men were made by these two ancient Sculptors of Greece to represent Bucephalus and Alexander the Great. However these horses give name to this hill, and whereas it was formerly called Mons Quirinalis; it's now called Montecavallo. Upon this hill stood anciently the Thermae Constantinianae, or Baths of Constantin the Great, of which there are seen some remnants in the Garden of Colonna which lies behind the wall of this piazza. The Pope's Summer Palace. Oueragainst the foresaid horses stands the Pope's Palace, where he ordinarily lives in Summer. The house is of a noble structure, and the rooms stately: but I saw nothing rare in them but themselves. The Garden of this house is curious for fine walks, store of fountains, and the cool Grotta under great shady trees, where there are fine water-works, and an organ playing without any fingers to touch it. Over against the backdore of this garden stands the nouitiate of the jesuits, with the ne a new Church, & fine gardens. Returning from hence, S. Syluesters Church. I stepped into the Church of S. Sylvester over against the Palace of Mazzarini belonging to the Theatins; and there saw the tomb of Cardinal Bentivoglio the modern Livy of Italy. The garden here standing in a fair prospect, is very pleasant and delightsome. Descending from hence by a private street, S. Agathas Church. I went to S. Agathas Church in the Saburra near the foot of the Quirinal Hill. The body of S. Agatha lies under the Altar. Before the door of this Church, are some ancient statues of little boys in the habit of the Praetexta, a habit belonging to nobleman's children. From hence passing by the Church of Madonna del Monte (a Church of great devotion) I went up the Hill to S. Peter's ad Vincola; S. Peter's ad Vincola. where I saw the famous statue of Moses sitting. It's of white marble and adorning the Tomb of julius Secundus. It's enough to tell you, that it was made by Michael Angelo, and admired by all Sculptors. Heres near unto the door of the Church, an Altar with the statue of S. Sebastian, at the erecting of which, the plague ceased in Rome, saith Baronius. Baron. an. 680. In the Sacristy of this Church I saw the chains in which S. Peter was fettered in prison; and which make this Church be called S. Peter ad Vincula. S. Martino in Monte. S. Martino in Monte fellows the next, and is a neat Church now. In a cave below there were two Councils held by S. Sylvester in the primitive times of persecution, as the words upon the wall, as you descend into the Cave, and Baronius, testify. It's said that in this place was exercised the first public profession of Christian Religion. S. Praxedes. Then the Church of S. Praxedes, were I saw the pillar at which our Saviour was whipped. The pillar at which our Saviour was whipped. It's a low round pillar of speckled marble. It stands within a little grate of iron. The old writing over the door of that Chapel tells you that it was brought to Rome from Jerusalem four hundred years ago by a Cardinal Colonna. In the mistd of the Church is a Well (now covered) where S. Praxedes hid the Relics and bodies of Martyrs. In an other Chapel I saw the Picture of the Descent of our Saviour from the Cross, made by Guido. In the Balcones above in the pillars, I saw, by special favour, many curious Relics. From hence I went to S. Mary Mayor Church, Santa Maria Maggiore so called because it is the greatest of all the Churches of our Lady in Rome. It's built upon the Monte Esquilino, and upon the place which was covered miraculously with snow on the V of August. The history of it is known by the solemn Feast in the Calendar, called Sancta Maria ad Nives, and it is expressed in the old Mosaik pictures which are set here in the wall over the pillars that bear up the roof. The most remarkable things I saw here, were these. 1. The Tomb of the founder of this Church, Patritius, whose body lies in a tomb of Porphyry near the great door. 2. The noble guilt roof, or soffita, which was guilt with the first gold that came out of the Indies in Alexander the VI time, whose arms are set up in this roof. 3. The Mosaic pictures which run along this Church containing the history of the old and new Testament, and the history of the building of this Church. 4. The High Altar under which reposeth the body of S. Mathias the Apostle, whose head is exposed upon the Altar in a crystal upon his day. 5. The Tomb of an Ambassador of Congo to Paulus V. It's over against the statue in brass of Paulus V. near the Sacristy. 6. The little back Court there with the Echo in the well, which answers you indeed, but like a sharp scold, too quick, and short. The Chapel of Sixtus V. 7. The Rare Chapel of Sixtus V. made by Domenico Fontana, which cost seven hundred thousand crowns. The most famous actions of Sixtus Quintus, and of Pius Quintus, who made Sixtus Cardinal, are carved in white marble round about the Chapel. S. Hieromes ashes are buried here in a side Altar on the left hand: S. Hieromes tomb and where should we look for S. Jerome, but near our Saviour's Crib? The holy Crib of our Saviour. which is here enchased in crystal in a low Chapel under the high Altar of this Chapel. It's shown publicly upon Christmas day. The Tabernacle of brass borne up by four Angels of brass with one hand, and holding each one a torch in the other hand, is most stately. 8. Oueragainst this Chapel, stands the Chapel of Paulus V. much like the other in all things, The Chapel of Paulus V. except that the chief Altar stands not in the middle, but at the end of it. This Altar is of a Very neat contrivance, and of as rich materials. Four great Pillars of jasper polished, adorned with Capitels and bases of brass guilt, hold up the back of this Altar which is all of Lapis Luzuli, or Oriental blew azule stone; in the midst of which is a little Nichio in the Wall, where the picture of our Blessed Lady with our Saviour in her arms, made by S. Luke, A Picture of our B. Lady made by S. Luke. is conserved and seen. This Nichio is surrounded with a row of rich precious stones of great value set thick about it; and shut up with two little half doors, of two whole Agates, each of them two foot long, and a foot large. Theodorus Lector an ancient Author, makes mention of this picture, and saith, Pulcherioe, Eudocia Imaginem Matris Christi, quam Lucas Apostolus Pinxerat, Theodor. Lector in initio Collectaneorum. Hierosolymis misit: That is: Eudocia sent unto Pulcheria from Jerusalem the picture of the mother of Christ which Luke the Apostle had painted. The picture itself is so old, and placed so high, that its hard to perceive the lineaments of the faces, unless you see it with a wax taper at the end of a long pole, as I did. In fine, this was the picture which S. Gregory the Great a thousand years ago, carried in procession upon Easier day, when he saw over the Moles Adriani, an Angel sheathing his sword in sign of the ceasing of the plague. The roof or little cupola of this Chapel is painted by the hand of Guido Rheni of Bologna. The side walls of this Chapel are of white marble cut in mezzo relievo, and containing the chief actions of Clement the VIII, and Paulus V, whose statues are also here in white marble. 9 Without the Church stand two great pillars at each end of it: the one an Egyptian Guglias cut with Hieroglyphs; the other a Roman Pillar taken out of the ruins of the Temple of Peace; which is of a prodigious height, with the statue of our Saviour & our Lady upon it in brass guilt. From S. Marie Mayor I went to the Church of S. Vito and Modesto. SS. Vito & Modesto. The Arch of Galienus. It's built near the ruins of the Triumphal Arch of Galienus the Emperor. The great Keys that are nailed to the top of that foresaid Arch, were the Keys of the City Tusculum (now called Frescate) and hung up here in memory of a Victory won over that town, under Honorius the V. almost five hundred years ago. From hence I went to the Church of S. Eusebio S. Eusebio▪ built upon the ruins of the Termae of the Emperor Gordiano, and his Palace, whose court had fifty pillars on every side. Near unto this Church were found the Trophies of Marius, which I spoke of above in the Capitol. Santa Croce in Jerusalem. Continuing on my way, I came at last to Santa Croce in Jerusalem. It's one of the seven Churches of Rome, and built by the Emperor Constantin the Great. It stands near the walls of the town in the end of the Mount Caelius. See Baronius in his Annals. Hard by it appear some prints of the Temple of Venus and Cupid, which the said Emperor ruined, to build a Church in the place of them, in honour of the holy Cross, and so repair the injury which the Jnfidels had done to the Holy Cross in Jerusalem, by placing the Statue of Venus upon Mount Caluary, and striving to blot out the name of Mont Caluarie, and bring in that of Mont Venery. This Church is called Santa Croce in Jerusalem, because of the earth of Mount Caluarie, which was brought from Jerusalem and laid here. The things I observed here, were these. 1. The painting in the Tribune or roof of the choir, containing the history of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross. It looks like the painting of Pietro Perugino, or some of his scholars; and it was thought fine work before Raphael raised painting to a greater height. 2. The Chapel below where the Holy Earth sent by S. Helen from Jerusalem, to her son Constantin the Emperor, was put. 3. The Relics in the Sacristy above, to wit, three pieces of the Holy Cross; one of the nails of the Cross of our Saviour; two thorns of the holy Crown of thorns; a great piece of the title of the Holy Cross, a finger of S. Thomas the Apostle; and one of the thirty pieces of money for which our Saviour was sold. Not far from hence stands the Church of Santa Bibiana. S. Bibiana. This Church stands in the place called anciently Vrsa Pileata, because of the statue of a Bear with a hat on, which stood there. This place is also famous for the Church yards sake, or Caemeterium, called, inter duas lauros. Here is some good painting in this Church, of Campelli, and Pietro Cortonese. The statue of the Saint is of Berninis hand. From hence I found away that led me to the Gate of S. Laurence, S. Laurence his Church. through which, I went to the Church of that Saint called San Lorenzo fuori delle mura by reason of divers others built in honour of that Saint within the Walls. This Church was built by Constantin too, and enriched by him with many presents and ornaments. It was built upon the Caemeterium Sanctae Ciriacae, where that holy woman used to bury the bodies of the holy Martyrs. It stands in the Via Tiburtina, and is one of the seven Churches of Rome; and one of the five Patriarchal Churches, and therefore is not titular of any Cardinal. The things that I saw here, were these. 1. The Tomb of S. Laurence, under the High Altar. 2. Behind the high Altar the stone upon which the gridiron stood upon which S. Laurence was broiled. It's covered with a great glass through which you see it. 3. In the roof of this Church I found these words cut in great Letters of wood; Quam clarificata est Hierosolyma Stephano, tam illustris facta est Roma Laurentio, taken out of S. Leo in his sermon upon the feast of S. Laurence. 4. The Catacombes under this Church, where many Saints bodies were buried anciently. Returning again into the town I stepped into S. Antony's Church and Hospital, S. Antonio. near to S. Mary Mayor; before which Church stands a Pillar with a Cross upon it, erected here upon the conversion of Henry the IV of France. Passing behind S. Mary Mayor, I went to Santa Pudentianas' Church standing in the ancient street called Vicus Patritius. S. Pudentiana. This Church was built upon the place where the house of Pudens a Senator and Father of S. Pudentiana, lived. And here it was, that S. Peter at his first coming to Rome lodged, Baronius ad an: 44. having converted this Pudens and his two daughters Pudentiana and Praxedes. Here I saw these things. 1. The dry Well into which S. Pudentiana put many Relics of Martyrs, to conserve them. I looked into it with a lighted taper let down in a string, and saw many curious relics desked up in the side of the wall. 2. The wooden Altar upon which S. Peter said Mass at his being here. 3. The two marble statues of our Saviour and S. Peter. They are both excellently well cut, and perchance by rare Olivieri. 4. The neat Chapel of the Caetani, with the back of the Altar in white marble curiously cut by Olivieri in a bass● rilievo, representing the adoration of the Magi. Near the high Altar, is the picture of the forementioned Senator Pudens, in his Senators robes. From hence I went to S. Lorenzo in Panisperna. S. Laurenzo in Panisperna. Here it was that S. Laurence was broiled upon the gridiron by the command of the Emperor Decius whose palace stood where this Church now stands. Upon the wall of this Church is painted the martyrdom of S. Laurence in Fresco. Here lie buried the bodies of S. Bridgit a Holy Virgin of Scotland; and of Cardinal Sirletus. Going from hence by a little unfrequented street running under the foot of Mo●tecauallo, I came to the Church of S. Vitalis which stands joined to the garden of the jesuits Novitiat. S. Vitalis It's said that the Temple of Quirinus, or Romulus stood here; and that it was here that Proculus swore he saw Romulus after his death, who bid him go tell the Romans, that he would be adored by them under the name of Quirinus: when indeed it was thought, that the Senators had torn him in pieces in the Senate house, See Plutarch. and carried away under their gowns every one a piece of him; and finding the people to mutter much at his not appearing; had got this Proculus to depose as above; and so quieted the people, who are as easily pacified again with a vain tale, as stired up with a found rumour. Quatro Fontane. From hence I went to the Quatro Fontane, which stand at the head of four streets which meet here. These fountains issue out from four statues which lie here in cumbent postures; and they were made here by Lepidus. Then following that fair street, I went to Sancta Maria della Vittoria so called from the victory won in the battle of Prague. Santa Maria della Vittoria. The flags and cornets taken in this battle are set round about the Church▪ in one of the flags, over the door, I found Cross Keys, Cardinals Caps, Mitres and Priests corned caps all turned topsy turuy, with this single motto, Extirpentor. Here are very neat Chapels especially that on the left hand, where is seen the representation of S. Teresa wounded by a Seraphin. It's an admiraole piece of Beruinis. In the Convent you see painted in a Sala, the battle of Prague, and in the Sacristy a sepulchre of our Saviour all of ivory extraordinarily well wrought. Before the door of the forsayd Church, stands the great Fountain, called Fontana Felice, where the Aqueduct of Sixtus Quintus (who before his assumption to Ecclesiastical dignities, was called in his Monastery ●ra Felice) disburdeneth itself into a great stone basin, and from thene is carried into divers parts of the town. From hence I went to the garden of Montalto, The Garden of Montalto which is hard by. This is one of the best gardens in Rome, and therefore deserves well to be seen. At your entrance into it, you see a round table of a bluish stone, upon which the arms of the house of Montalto are engraven; at which while you gaze curiously and near at hand, the gardener, by pressing his foot upon a low iron pump under the table, presseth out water on all sides of that round table, and well-cometh the strangers that come to see his garden. Then mounting into the little Palace near that door, I saw divers good pictures and statues, of the house of Montalto, and others. There also I saw a wooden organ, pipes and all, and yet of no ungreatfull sound. There also I saw the picture of David killing Goliath: It turns upon a frame, and shows you both the foreside of those combatans, and their backsides two, which other pictures do not. Here are curious Urns; the true busto of sixtus V. a tabernacle of richstones. There is a pictures in stones of several colours, which held one way, represents nothing but a bunch of herbs; but held up an other way, it represents a man's head and face. in fine here is in this little palace, a neat Library in a cool room, over the door of which, on the in side, are written these words: Medicina animi; as if Libraries were nothing but physic gardens for the mind. Descending again into the garden I saw store of wetting sports, and water works, most curiously contriveed: & most stately walks. From hence we went to the Carthusians Church which is hard by. This Church and Monastery are built upon the ruins of the Baths of Diocletian. The Baths of Diocletian. For this cruel Emperor with his associate Maximian, condemned forty thousand Christians to work in this building for the space of fifteen years together, and afterwards condemned many thousands of them to death for their religion. Thus men work for Tyrants. But such is the wonderful providence of God: Churches of Christians now stand where Christians were condemned to death and torments. The blood of these martyrs was but the seed of Christians; and when Diocletian condemned Christians to work here, me thinks he did but bid them go lay the foundation of a Monastery for Carthusians, and of a Church for the worship of that God he so much persecuted. Having seen this Church and Monastery, I went to see the Pope's Graneries, The Pope's Graneries vast buildings two stories high, and always full of wheat for the present use of the whole city. A world of officers and overseers belong to these Graneries, and are always turning over, and keeping the vast heaps of wheat from spoiling and corrupting. By sticking up canes in the heaps of wheat, they can tell, smelling at the ends of these canes, whether the wheat begin to moisten and corrupt, or no, and accordingly give order either to turn it, and air it, or presently to give it out to the bakers. These Graneries were also built upon the ruins of Diocletians Baths. The Church of S. Agnes. From these Graneries I went to the town Gate, not far off, called Porta Pia, and from thence straight along for a good mile, to S. Agneses' Church. Under the high Altar reposeth the body of that tender Virgin, who being as innocent as her name, suffered martyrdom at thirteen, and triumphed over the world before she could know it. Close by stands the Church of S. Constantia an other holy primitive Virgin. Here I saw the famous Tomb, commonly called Bacchus his Tomb, but falsely, seeing it was the Tomb of S. Constantia. It's a vast arca, or Chest of one Porphyry stone, above half a foot thick, and six foot long. It's all cut on the outside with a basso rilievo in a most admirable manner. From hence crossing over the fields, I went to Borghesis Villa and garden, Burghesis' Villa. which are a little half mile from the town. This is the greatest Villa that's about Rome. For here you have store of walks, both open and close, fish ponds, vast cages for birds, thickets of trees, store of fontaines, a park of dear; a world of fruit trees. statues of all sizes, banqueting places Grottas, wetting sports, and a stately palace adorned with so many rare statues and pictures, that their names make a book in octavo, which I refer you to. As for the palace itself its compassed on both sides by a fair demicircle of statues, which stand before the two doors, like old Penates and Lares. The wall of the house is overcrusted with a world of Anticallie, or old marble pieces of antiquity: as that of Curtius spurring into the Vorago: that of Europa hurried away by jupiter becomne a Bull, with a world of such like fables. Entering into the house I saw divers rooms full of curiosities. In the great hall stands the statue of Diana in Oriental Alabaster, which was once à Deity adored by Augustus Caesar. Here also hang two great pictures, the one representing a Cavalcata when the Pope goeth abroad in ceremony; the other a Cavalcata when the Great Turk goeth abroad in pomp. 2. In an other room stands the statue of one of the famous gladiators anciently, who fought alone against twenty others, and being wounded to death seems to threaten with his looks all his beholders. It's terribly well made. 3. In one of the chambers above, is the head in profile of Alexander the Great cut in marble. 4. In an other room below I saw the Statue of Seneca bleeding to death. It's of a black stone like jet, than which nothing can be blacker but the crimes of Nero the Magistricide, who put this rare man his master to death. 5. The statue also of Daphne and Apollo in alabaster; Apollo running after Daphne, and she stiffening into a tree being over taken: her fingers shooting into branches, and her toes into roots, are admirably well done. It must be Berninis work. 6. The statue also of Aeneas carryeing his old Father Anchises upon his back out of burning Troy. The young man is brawny and strong; the old man is made lean and weak: as also the young man shows a great deal of tender affection towards his Father; and the Father as much fear in his looks. 7. The Statue also of David slinging at Goliath. He frowns so terribly as he slings, that you would swear he intends to fright him with his looks, and then kill him with his sling. These two last statues are also of the hand of Cavalier Bernini. 8. In an other chamber above I saw the Great Chair which locketh fast any man that sitteth down in it. It's said to be a chair of revenge, or a trap-chaire for an enemy: but me thinks it would be a fine chair for a restless student, or a gossipping wife. I saw here also Some toys for young men; as the clock which being wound up playeth a tuneable dance, and little men and women of iron painted handsomely, dance in a ring to that tune by virtue of the wheels. The fool's paradise, representing first a fine green garden of flowers, than a palace, and lastly a neat Library, is made also to recreate children. Returning from this villa by the back door which leadeth to the Porta del Populo, I stepped into the Church of Madonna del Populo. Madonna del Populo. This Church hath been much beautified of late by Pope Alexander the VII, because of some of his ancestors buried here. Here I saw the famous statue of jonas made by the command of Raphael Urbin, who showed the Sculptors of his time how perfectly he possessed the theory of Sculpture, if he would but have durtyed his fingers with that dirty art. In a chapel near the Ghospelside of the High Altar I saw a good picture of the hand of Guido Rhevi. Where now the High Altar stands, stood anciently the Tomb of Nero. Going on from hence on the left hand, towards the Piazza di Spagna, I first passed by the great Guglia, or Egyptian pyramid carved all over with Hieroglyphs. It's looked upon by three streets, and seen a far off. Then passing a little further, I came to the Greek Church and College, The Greek College. where upon certain days, I saw their Ceremonies, and heard the Mass sung in Greek after the Greek Manner. These Grecians are in union with the Roman Church, and have a Seminary of young students of their country maintained by the Pope to reurne to their country in Mission. Mounting from hence on the left hand, The Villa of the great Duke. to the top of the hill by the coach way, I went into the Villa of the Great Duke, where I saw the neat garden, with fountains, two or three huge vessels of marble, and store of statues both in the palace, and in the long gallery. That of the two gladiators wrestling; that of the clown, whetting his sith and hearing the conspirators of Catiline speaking of their conspiracy, which he discovered, is one of the best pieces of sculpture in Rome. That of Cupid and Venus are admirable. From the chamber window of this palace you have a perfect sight of Rome under you. In the garden there is a little Guglia, with many other curiosities. Going out from this garden by the back door, I crossed over the street, and was presently at the backdore also of the Villa Ludovisia, Villa Ludovisia. belonging to the Prince Ludovisio. This Villa stands in excellent air being seated high. There are two houses in this garden, and both furnished with exquisite rarities. The first house That which stands near this backdore afforded me these curiosities. A rare picture of the B. Vjrgin Mary made by Guido Rheni. It's the best picture of her that ever I saw. A rich cabinet with the picture of Pope Gregory the XV. in a Cameo, and other rich stones adorneing it. A neat little closet full of divers rarities; as a true hydras skinn with seven necks: a petrifyed fungus: the true picture of Francis the First of France with that also of his Physician, both made by Laurenzo Vinci, and esteemed rare pieces; with many other little curiosities. In an other room, the heads in white marble, of Gregory the XV, and his nephew Cardinal Ludovisio. A chamber full of curious glasses. Upon the stairs a little Cupid so loaden with a quiver of arrows, that an other little Cupid is forced to hold them up behind him. But that which is the most rare thing in this Villa, or perchance in any in Rome, is the incomparable Bedstead which is seen in one of the Chambers of this palace. It's all of precious stones, and valued at a hundred thousand crowns. The four bedposts are all of Oriental polished jasper. The rest of it is of other rich stones: but the head of it exceeds far the rest for riches and art, especially the midst of it, where the arms of the family of Ludovisio are curiously set in rich stones of several colours according to the colours of the coat of arms. Here you have bunches of grapes, some red, some white, but all of rich stones. Here vast Amithysts, one square, an other round in pyramidal form. Here Phaethon in his Chariot in a Cameo, with the wheels of his Chariot of precious stones; and a world of such rich work, which makes this Bedstead the non plus of art and magnificence, I do not know for all that, why beds should be made of stones though precious ones. If it be for the Princess of this house to be brought to bed in, it portends unto her a hard labour: if to lodge in it the everlasting Fame of the greatness of this Family, it's a vain labour; seeing precious stones will moulter ●way in time, as other stones do ●mnia mortalia mortalitati damnata. for my part, the best use I know for it, is, to lay the petrifyed man in, whom we shall find presently in the other palace of this Villa: beds of stone are fittest for men of stone. Hard by this house stand the fountains and Waterworks, which with their shady trees, correct the hottest beams of the Italian Sun, and afford unto the owner of this Villa, rain and clouds of his own at will, even in June and july. From hence crossing through the garden, The second house. I went to the other house that stands in it, where I was shown in the several chambers many curious things: as, two brave old gladiators in stone sitting down: four rare pieces of Guido Rhem, to wit a S. Francis, a Lucretia, a judith, and a Conversion of S. Paul: divers curious pictures of the hand of Titian, Raphael, Michael Angelo, Carraccio and others: a rare head in marble of Scipio Affricanus: the head of Seneca in busto of great value. Cicero's head also in busto: some rich tables of inlaid stones: the little boys in ivory greater than I thought it possible for ivory to have furnished: two rare Apollo's in white marble: the oracle of Porphyry which spoke once: the statue of an old gladiator dying of his wounds in a great squar box lined with velvet, I saw the body of a petrifyed man, A petrifyed man. that is, a man turned into stone. One piece of the leg (broken to assure an ambassador doubting of the verity of the thing) showed me plainly both the bone and the stone crusted over it. The head and the other parts lie jumbled up together in the box. If you ask me, why they do not put this body into some tomb, to bury it, I answer you, that it needs no other Tomb than this crust of stone. Indeed I never saw a body so neatly entombed as this: you would swear that this Tomb is a pure justaucorps rather than a Tomb: it sits as close as if a Tailor had made it. And that you may not think it an impossible thing. that men should be thus petrifyed, Ortelius in Tab. Geograph Russiae. I must mind you what Ortelius saith, that upon the mountains situated in the Werstern parts of Tartary are seen figures of men, camels, sheep and other beasts, which by an admirable metamorphosis, Aristot lib. de An. c. 50. were changed into stones about three hundred years ago. And Aristotle himself speaks of men petrifyed in the hollow cave of a mountain near Pergamus. In an other chamber stands a great clock of brass guilt, as tall as a man; and it stands indeed; for I think it hath not gone since it went out of Germany to Rome. They tell us pretty things that this clock did, when it was young: but now it cannot so much as stir its hand: thus Time cashers at last, it's own Heralds; and breaketh the cloks by which we know her. In an other chamber of this house I saw a new statue in pure white marble, of the rapt of Proserpina: it's of the hand of Berninj. In an other room I saw the rare statue of Cestius Marius killing himself with his dagger, upon sight of his dead daughter who had killed herself for fear of falling into the hands of a lustful Emperor. Descending from hence into a long low Gallery of statues I found here some very good ones, as that of junius Brutus, of Nero, of Domitian etc. But the best thing I saw there was the head of Olympias, (mother of Alexander the Great) in a basso rilievo, and in a frame. The Capucins Going out of this Villa by the great door behind the Capucins, I stepped into the Church of the said Capucins, and saw there in the second Chapel on the left hand, the Tomb of Santo Felice, a Lay brother of this Order, famous all Rome over for his known sanctity. Here lies also buried Cardinal Antonio Barberino brother to Pope Vrban the VIII, otherwise called Cardinal Sant' Onofrio, who having been long a Capucin, was made Cardinal by his brothers express command; and being Cardinal lived still a Capucin in the esteem of all that knew him. His humility would not so much as let his name be set upon his tombstone; but instead of it, and his other titles, I found only these words, hic iacet umbra, cinis, nihil. This Cardinal, and Cardinal Mazat made by Clement the VIII, are all the Cardinals that the Capucins Order hath had. Over against the Capucins stands the Palace of the family of Barberini possessed now by the Prince of Palestrina of that family. Palazzo Barberino This is one of the noblest Palaces in Rome, for its stately situation upon a hills side; for the two neat staircases; the noble painting in the roof of the great hall by Pietro di Cartona; the world of statues and pictures in the Gallery; the rare sequens of chambers one going into an other; the double appartimenti, each Capable to lodge any king in, and each rarely furnished; in fine, for the rare Library of Cardinal Francisco Barberino. Descending from hence towards the Minims of Trinità di Monte, I stepped into à little Church of Spanish Augustins called santo Ildefonso, S. Jldefonso. which I cannot pass by without taking notice of; because I think no body else doth, it is so little: yet having described the greatest Church of Rome (S. peter's) so exactly; The least Church in Rome. I cannot but say something of the least Church in Rome: dwarves are men as well as Giants; and though this Church may seem rather to be a map, or model of a Church, than a true Church, yet seeing it hath not only all the lineaments, features, and mien of a Church, but also all the noble parts of a Church, as High Altar, side Chapels, Cupola, Choir etc. I fear not to call it a Church, though for bigness, it would not make the little finger of S. Peter's. The Church of Trinità di Monte From hence I went straight on to the Minims of Trinità di Monte belonging to France and S. Francis of Paula● Order. This Convent is the best seated of any in Rome, and one of the noblest, being founded by king Lewis the XI. of France, overlooking all Rome, and looked upon reciprocally by the best places in Rome. In the Church I saw divers good pieces: as the Assumption of our Lady by Zuccarj: the picture of the taking down of our Saviour from the Cross, by Raphael: the picture of our Saviour's appearing to S. Mary Magdalen, by Julio Romano Raphael's Scholar, and imitating very much in this picture, Raphael's colours. See in the dormitory of this Convent the curious perspective of S. Francis of Paula, and a rare sun's dyal ingeniously contrived. Descending from hence into the Piazza di Spagna, Piazza di Spagna I saw the fountain of the ship, which in summer nights they let over flow, to cool the Piazza and the neighbouring streets. In this Piazza stands the Palace of the Spanish Ambassador, belonging always to him who is Ambassador here. In the end of the Piazza stands the College de Propaganda Feed, Collegiode Propaganda fede. of propagating the Faith, founded by Vrban the VIII to maintain divers students of the Eastern country's, and even of India and Ethiopia too, who having finished their studies in this College, are sent back again to their several countries with great profit and advantage to those poor Infidels who would sit still in the darkness of infidelity, were it not for the Pope's care and Charity. Fontana de Trevi. From hence I steered to the Piazza of the Fontana de Trevi, and in my way, saw divers stately palaces inhabited by Cardinals, because they stand near the Foot of Montecavallo where the Pope resides. This Fontain of Trevi is not yet finished as to the structure that was intended; but only the water is brought hither, and in that quantity, that it seems to make three little rivers, at the three mouths out of which it gusheth. The Maronites College. From hence I went nearer unto the foot of the hill of Montecavallo, and stepped into the College of the Maronites, in whose Church, I heard them singing Mass in their own language, and after their own rites, as the Christians of Mount Libanus have immemorably used to do. Their language is Arabic, and they have always kept themselves free from heresies; and in Union with the Roman Church these 500 years. From hence I went to the Church of the SS. Apostoli built in honour of the twelve Apostles by Constantin the Great, SS. Apostoli. who in honour of those holy Apostles, carried out of the foundation twelve baskets of earth upon his own shoulders. In this Church lie buried S. Philip and jacob two Apostles. In the Piazza before this Church, stand four fine palaces; that of the Prince Colonna, that of Cardinal Ghisi, that of Cardinal Sforza, and that of the Signori Muti. Crossing from hence into the Corso I took an exact observation of this street, The Corso which is the fairest in Rome. It's called the Corso, because here it is that they make horses run against horses, jews against jews, boys against boys, and the like, in Carneval time. Here also it is, that the Mascarades march in Carneval time, and make themselves and others merry: and and all this is allowed the Italians that they may give a little vent to their spirits which have been stifled in for a whole year, and are ready else to choke with gravity and melancholy; most men here living alone in their houses and chambers. If our Statesmen in England had gone on in the course their wise ancestors had showed, and had suffered, as they did, some honest recreations to the people, as bowling, shooting, raceing &c, to give vent to their active spirits, we had all been happier: but while both the Tribunals, and the Pulpits thundered out against moderate recreations and assemblies, out of fear and faction, they made the humour of the Englishmen grow so sour and bitter, that nothing would please them, but flat rebellion, and fanatic heresies. Now here in Rome, once a year, In Carneval time every one vents his humour according to his fancy, and (as it seems) according to his need. One plays the Doctor of the Law, and goes up and down the streets with his book in his hand disputing with every man he meets and uttering pure raillery: and if by chance two such Doctors meet, they make sport enough for half an hour by their abuseing one another. Four of these pretended Doctors, with their gowns and caps on, and their books of the Codex before them, got an Ass into their coach who had also an open book before him; and thus they went along the streets studyeing, and turning over their books. Another takes himself to be a Grand Cyrus, and goes a horseback with a rich Persian habit and Plumes highly mounted. One went a foot gravely with a cloak on, & cried a secret against mice, and opening his cloak, showed a cat that he had under his arm? Another went up and down the street combeing his hair like a spaniard saluting the Ladies and twirling up his moustaches with a stayed gravity. Some go in coaches and there play on instruments: others go on great carts, with little stages of boards thrown upon them, and there act little plays as they go along, and abuse tradesmen. One rides like a physician upon a mule with a world of urinals hung round about him. Others ride gravely through the streets with great clackbags behind them as if they came from Polonia. Some Princes here make glorious Carro's, with four horses on a breast drawing them, and with rare pageants upon them, and a great train of horsemen and trumpeters, clad exotically, accompanying the Carro in a most glorious manner. Some noblemen of highest quality, as Dukes, and Princes, I have seen going a foot pelting with sugar plums those that were in coaches and windows; and angering them with their sugar affronts. But never did any Mascarade please like that speculative Italian who mocked both the French and the Spaniards at once, by walking up and down the street clad half like a Don, and half like a Monsieur. Oneside of his hair hung down in a long curled lock powdered white: the other side was black and sweaty Half of his beard was turned downwards: the other half was turned up with irons and twirled in like the hilt of an old dragger. One eye was bare: and the other had a glass, or half spectacle before it held on by a small wyar from under his hat. Half his hat was a narrow three-fingered-brimd hat, with a little half feather upon the brim: the other half of it was a broad brim with out so much as a hat band. One half of his band about his neck was of a broad bonlace startched white: the other half was made of course lawn startched blue and standing out upon a picky illy of wyar. Half of his face looked white with meal and powder: the other half looked black and tawny. Half of his doublet was white satin with an open sleeve and a world of shirt huffing about his wrist and half of his waste: the other half was of black freeze with a black taffetty sleeve close and straight to the arm, and a hanging sleeve of freeze. One half of his breeches was of scarlat and vastly wide at the knee, with a confusio of rubans of six colours: the other half was of black taffata close at th● knee. Upon one leg he had a linenen stocking with a great laced canon turned down to his half leg: on the other he had a black silk stocking drawn up close. In fine, on one foot he had a white spanish-leather shoe, with a stiff knot of six coloured ruband a quarter of an ele long: on the other a little black flat sole shoe tied with a short narrow ruband. Thus this moral Hermaphrodite and walking Emblem of peace between the two nations, walked up and down the Corso gravely; yet laughing within himself, to see how he carried about him two such antipathetical nations in one suit of clothes. By this you may guess at their other fooleries in Carneval time, and see how innocently they divert themselves: for you must know, that none are suffered to carry swords or arms while they go masked thus; nor to enter into any house; nor to be abroad masked after it grows dark; nor to do, or speak any thing scandalously that may shok civility or public view: for which reason here are always guards set, and sergeants riding up and down the street of the Corso, to keep all in order, and to make even mirth observe decency. In this street also of the Corso it is that noblemen and Ladies take the air every fair evening in their coaches. For this reason there are many fine palaces built in this street; as the Palace of Signior Vitelleschi, Some Palaces in the Corso. where I saw ten chambers on a floor, and all of them filled with a rare collection of pictures and statues. Among the statues I was pleased exceedingly with that of Cincinnatus, and with that of Brutus defaced by the command of the Senate, where the very marks of the punches of the Halberds wherewith they defaced it, are yet seen. Not far from it stands the palace of Prencipe Pamfilio, The Palace of Pamfilio. in which I saw more riches and rare furniture then in any house in Rome or almost in Italy. For here they showed me excellent plate of gold and silver: an Agate Cross fixed upon a foot of the root of Saphir-stone, and under it a basis beset round with Cameos cut into pictures: a great silver Crucifix upon an ebeny frame, the whole worth 12000 crowns: a rare cabinet with the picture of our blessed Lady in it, the whole valued at 6000 crowns: a sword whose hilt is of three great Turkey stones of great Value: a basin of gold set thick with Turkey stones: three or four great Besoars stones as big as pearmanes, which had been presented to Clement the VIII from all parts because he stood in need of them: a rich mitre set with precious stones of great Value: a world of curious originals of the best painters hands: curious saddles, harness, liveryes of show embroidered with gold and silver, with many other rich curiosities. The other palaces in the Corso are these; that of Prencipe Carboniano; that of Cardinal Franciotti; that of Don Augustino Chisi, that of Prencipe L●douisio, that of the Duke Caetano. There are also in this street some Church's worth takeing notice of; as that of S. Maria in Via Lata. Santa Maria in Via Lata. which stands near the Palace of the Prince Pamfilio. It's an ancient Church, and a Cardinal's title. Baronius saith, that it's built there where S. Paul lodged at his first coming to Rome. It's said also that in the Oratory here S. Luke wrote the Acts of the Apostles. There is also in the Corso the Church of S. Marcello, S. Marcello. a title of a Cardinal. It was built in the place where anciently stood the Temple of the infamous Egyptian Goddess Isis, which Tiberius himself caused to be pulled down, the Idol thrown into Tiber, and all the Priests of it to be crucified, for having favoured a great crime commited by a Roman Lady. Behind this Church stands the Oratory of S. Marcello, called the Oratory of the holy Crucifix, where there is a famous Confraternity in which many noble men of Rome are enroled. Every friday in Lent there is excellent music, and one of the best preachers in Rome. From hence also in the Holy year I saw march a procession of 15000 men, all in black buckram coats to the heels, with a white torch in their hands; and they went from hence on the night of Manday Thursday unto S. Peter's Church. S. Carlo in Corso. Then the Church of S. Carlo in Corso, where I saw the heart of S. Charles Borromeo in a Crystal case. This Church belongs to the Milanesi. S. Jacomo de gl'Incurabili. Then the Church of S. jacomo de gl'Incurabili, a neat round Church belonging to the Hospital here where they that are afflicted with incurable diseases, are entertained and well tended. The Convent of the repent whores. Lastly the Church of the penitent whores with their Convent; where all those poor souls that repent themselves of their bad life, are received, and kept all their life time, at the cost of this Convent. And here I found a great difference between this Convent, and the house in Amsterdam, where whores are clapped up. For here these poor souls are locked up with their own consent and desire: there they are locked up by force and violence. Here the poor women do great acts of austerityes and penance, as the bloody walls of their Cells laid open by a conflagration showed unto all the City: there the young women laugh, and are merry. Here no man is permitted to speak alone with them, except their Confessor, & physician: there many men go to prattle and pass their time with those wanton girls, at a separation of rails. Here a Veil hides these poor women's faces: there I saw divers with black patches on their faces. Here all signs of true repentance are seen: there none. Here the love of virtue and penance locks up these: there the Vice of Love locks in those, and not true repentance. For really all the repentance I saw there: was, that it repented me, that I had suffered mine host (who would needs show me all the rarities of Amsterdam) to lead me thither. Objection. O but, said a Holander to me, the Pope allows whores in Rome. Answer. To whom I answered: no more Sir, than your states do drunkenness, which is a greater sin of the two, because it rides double, and carrieth luxury behind it. Do not drink wine in which is luxury. Ephes. 5. Object. But saith an English writer; I am told, that the Pope both permits them, and taketh money of them too for that permission. Answ. Fenton in his treatis of usury l. 2. c. 9 You have been told many other false tales by those who think it lawful to tell untruths, so they speak but against the Pope: in the mean time, I that have been five times in Rome, can tell you the contrary, if by permitting you mean allowing and aproveing of them in that course. There's a great difference between allowing, and permitting a thing. Moses' allowed not, but yet permitted the libel of divorce to the jews for the hardness of their hearts. So usury is permitted, Matth. 19.8. but not allowed in divers countries, for trade's sake. But why takes he money of them? This money is taken up by you upon credit not, the Pope. Object. Answ. For the Pope is so far from receiving any money of these drabs that he goes to great cost, to hinder their trading. No man perhaps hath told you this, and therefore, I'll tell it you, know then that the Pope to hinder all young women from being naught, hath founded Hospitals for poor girls, where they are carefully brought up till they become either married wives, or Nuns. Nay, he gives them dowries also to execute this their choice, distributeing yearly upon the Feast of our Lady's day in Lent, in the Church of the Domicans supra Mineruam, a purse of money a piece, to three hundred young maids who are presented to him by the overseers of the foresaid Hospitals. Nor is this all: for he causeth young girls of tender years, to be taken from their poor suspected mothers, lest poverty, quae cogit ad turpia, should make them sacrifice those tender virgins to rich men's lusts. In fine, he hath caused a Monastery to be built in Rome to receive those poor unfortunate women in, Petrus a S. Romualdo in his Cronologicall Treasur. who would leave that infamous course, if they had but means to live on. Nay, he granteth Indulgences to any that will marry any of those women, to free them from that lewd course, and make them mend. All this the Pope doth; and much more; which would be a destroying of his own trade and gain, if it were true, that he countenanceth and alloweth of whores for his gain. No miller ever deturned the current of water from his own mill. But why doth not the Pope discountenance and punish whores that are known to be such? Object. Answ. He doth so. For is it not a discountenanceing of them, to forbid them to come to public meetings, and assemblies, where women of honour meet? as, at the Corso, in the evenings; at public marriages; at their sung operas; and the like? is it not a discountenanceing of them to forbid them to go in coaches in the day time; or to stir out of doors in the night? Is it not a punishment to them; to forbid them to live together, where they might encourage one an other, and pass their time more cheerfully? But for the most part they live alone, condemned to the melancholy horror of their crimes, and the solitude of seven whole weeks in Lent, when upon pain of rigorous punishments and imprisonment, they dare not admit of any customers. The like rigour is used against them also in advent, that dureing the space of those holy times, these unholy women may have time to think of themselves, and admit of God's holy inspirations for their amendment. Is it not a punishment to them to be obliged to enter their names publicly in the list of whores? For, Tacit. annal. 2. if Tacitus observes that the old Romans, satis paenarum adversum impudicas in ipsa professione flagitij apud Aediles credebant, thought it punishment enough against unchaste women, in their very profesing themselves to be such before the Aediles; I cannot but think it a great punishment to Christian whores (who are at least as sensible as the heathens, of the horrible disgrace of having their name listed) to be thus defamed for ever, by remaining whores upon Record. Is it not a punishing of them, to deprive them all their life time (as long as they live whores) of the holy Sacraments; and after their death, of Christian Burial? Is it not a punishment, and a deterring of them from vice, to throw their bodies when they die, into an obscure place out of the walls of the town, as if they deserved no other Burial place than that of Asses? Is it not, in fine, a punishment to them, not to be allowed to make any Will, or Testament, but to leave all their goods confiscated either to the Hospitals of poor honest girls, or to the maintaining of those guards, that are to watch over their deportments? If these punishments both of body, soul, and honour, be inflicted upon whores in Rome, as they are, do not urge any more, that whores are not punished in Rome, nor discountenanced. But why doth not the Pope punish them home, Object. and root them quite out by banishment? This hath been attempted by divers Popes, Answ. and namely by Pius Quintus of happy memory (as Thuanus in his history writes) but seeing greater inconveniences, and greater sins arose upon it, prudence, which is the salt that must season all moral actions, thought it not fit to carry on that rigour; nor yet allow of fornication neither. So that all the permission of whores in Rome that can colourably be imagined; is only a not punishing of them in all rigour; and even that too, for a good end; and to hinder greater evils. But the Pope being both a Temporal, and an Ecclesiastical Superior, Object. is bound, in my mind, to break through all respects, and settle innocency in the world. Answ. It's zealously spoken; and I wish he could do it: but difficilem rem optas, generis humani innocentiam: he wisheth a hard thing who wisheth for the innocency of mankind, Seneca. saith a wiseman. And if Princes sometimes do not punish factious subjects; when they see, that the punishing of them would pull the whole State in pieces over their heads, and put the whole kingdom in danger, as it did in Henry the Thirds time in France upon his causeing of the Duke of Guise to be killed in Blois: If Generals of armies take no notice of some treacherous commander, who is universally beloved by the soldiers; lest the punishing of one man, lose them the affection of the whole army, as we saw latey in the case of Lubemirsky (how truly guilty I know not) and some years ago I remember in the case of Walstein, whose punishment had almost undone the Emperor: why may not the Pope without approveing the sin of whores, prudently wave the punishing of it with all rigour, when he sees that such rigour would cause greater disorders in that hot nation, and in that city where all nations seem to club vices, as well as virtues? Hence learned Abulensis, In c. 8. l. 1. Reg. a great Divine saith; Licet leges humanae aliqua mala permittant non puniendo, nullum tamen malum permittunt statuendo. But the Pope should not govern according either to human policy, Object. or human Laws and Examples. You pretend zeal, Answ. but you would do well to take her sister Prudence with her, as our Saviour did, who when he heard his disciples desiring him to let them call down fire from heaven upon the criminal Samaritans, answered them calmly, Luke 9 you know not of what spirit you are. Nay, doth not God himself, who being able to punish all criminal persons, and root them quite out of the world, suffer both his Sun to rise and shine upon sinners, and sinners to offend in this sunshine, and often by it? S. Tho. 2.2. q. 10. art. 11. in corpore. Hence S. Thomas saith much to my purpose: Humanum regimen derivatur a divino regimine, & ipsum debet imitari. Deus autem quamuis sit omnipotens, ac summ● bonus, permittit tamen aliqua mala fieri in universo, quae prohibere posset; ne iis sublatis, maiora bona tollerentur, vel maiora mala sequerentur. Humane government is derived from divine government, and aught to imitate it. Now God, although he be almighty and highly good, yet he permits evils to be done in the world, which he could hinder, least by taking away them, greater goods should be taken, away or greater evils should follow. But I wade too far into this puddle: yet remember who thrust me into it, and you'll pardon me. S. Syluestro in Capite. Behind the Church and Convent of the foresaid Penitents, stands the Church of San Syluestro in Capite, so called from the picture of our Saviour's head and face, which our Saviour himself made by miracle, and sent to Abagarus King of Edessa, as you may read at length in Baronius, and in Bosius in his rare book called Roma Sotterranea. Now this picture is kept here in this monastery; and with great probability, seeing it was here that divers Greek Monks driven out of their country by Constantin Copronimus for the defence of sacred Jmages, were entertained by the Pope Paul the First; and it's very likely that these good men brought with them this famous picture of our Saviour to save it from the fury of the Iconoclasts. Returning from hence into the Corso again I went to see there the Colonna d'Antonino, Colonna Antonina. the Great Pillar of Antoninus the Emperor. It's built just like that of Traian described above. It was built by Marcus Aurelius Antoninus the Emperor in honour of his Father Antoninus Pius. It's all of white marble engraven without with a basso rilievo from top to bottom, containing the memorable actions of Marcus Aurilius. It's 175 foot high, & hath in it 206 stairs which lead up to the top of it, and 56 little windows giving light to those stairs: and yet this high Pillar was made of 28 stones of marble. The carving that is upon it, contains the brave actions of Marcus Aurelius over che Armenians, Parthians, Germans, Wandals and Sarmats, or Polonians: but age hath so defaced these bassi rilievi that its hard to decipher them. He that's curious to know them, may buy them in the printed cuts sold in Rome. Upon the top of this pillar stands mounted the statue in brass guilt of S. Paul set up here by Sixtus Quintus. From the top of this pillar I had a perfect view of Rome, and of almost all the Seven hills upon which it is built, The Seven hills of Rome. Mons Capitolinus and are within the walls: which are these. 1. The Capitolin hill where now Ara Coeli stands and the Conseruatorio. 2. The Palatin hill I could not see because it stands behind the former. It was so called from the Emperor's Palace that stood upon it. Palatinus 3. Auentinus The Auentin hill so called from Auentinus king of Alba buried here where now S. Sabinas' is. 4. Coelius. The Coelian hill beginning at S. Gregory's and running to S. john Lateran's. 5. Esquilinus. The Esquilin hill, exquilinus' quasi excubinus, because of the nightly watch and guard upon it. Here stands S. Mary Magiors. 6. The Viminal hill, Viminalis so called from Vimina, that is, Osiers, where with it was anciently covered. Here stand the Thermae Diocletiani and the Villa of Montalto. 7. Quirinalia. The Quirinal hill so called from the temple of Quirinus, or Romulus which stood upon it. Here now stands Montecavallo. These were the Seven ancient Hills of Rome, to which were added three more, to wit; The janicule Hill, janiculus. so called, from janus' buried here. Here stands S. Pietro Montorio. The Vatican Hill, Vaticanus so called from the Vaticinations and southsaying made here. S. Peter's Church stands now upon it. Pincius or Hortuorun. The Pincian Hill, now called Montrinita. Descending from hence I went to the Pazzorello, where they keep madmen and fools; and saw there strange variety of humours in folly: yet I was pleased to see with what charity and care those poor men were tended there. The Pazzorello. From hence I stepped to consider, in the piazza di Pietra, the row of curious pillars which adorned the Basilica of the Emperor Autoninus who had his palace here, and his Forum. The Roman College. Then turning by little unfrequented streets, I came to the Roman College belonging to the jesuits. It's a fair building, and stands conveniently for concourse of scholars from all parts. Here I saw the schools, & Gallery of famous Athanasius Kerkerius, Kerkerius his gallery. full of pretty curiosities and experiences both mecanical, mathematical, and hydraulical: yet in my opinion, it's far short of Canonico Settalas gallery in Milan, or Monsieur Seruiers in Lions. Here's also a fair Library having no fault in it but the common fault of most Libraries, to-wit, Locks and keys to it. Good books should be as common as the sun, seeing they are the lights of our minds and made public by the press: and I camot but pity a book that's imprisoned and locked up in a Library, by saying unto it: Odisti claves & grata sigilla pudicae, Paucis ostendi gemis, & communia laudas. In fine, I saw here the Apothecary's shop where a Lay brother maKes excellent Roman Treacle, and other odoriferous distillations of sovereign Virtue. The Church belonging to this College is designed to be a noble thing, but it's but half built for want of a whole founder. From hence I went to the Dominicans Convent, called la Minerva, La Minerva. because it's built upon the Place where anciently stood the Temple of Minerva. Hence also the Church is called Sancta Maria supra Mineruam. In this Church I saw many neat Tombs, as those of Leo the X, and Clement the VII, both Popes of the house of Medici's: they stand in the Choir, and are neatly wrought by that great artist Baccio Bandinelli. Then the Tomb of Cardinal Pimentelli a modern Cardinal. The tomb of great Cardinal Morone, Legate for the Pope in the Council of Trent, and a man who had been thirteen times Legatus a Latere. Here also lie buried the ashes of Egidio Foscarari Bishop of Modena called in the Council of Trent, Luminare Maius. The tomb of a Lady of the family of the Raggi, is very neat for the new manner of spreading (as I may say, and as you would think) of black marble upon an other coloured marble; and both of them upon a round pillar. Here on the gospel side of the high Altar standeth a statue of our Saviour made by Michael Angelo, of white marble, a rare piece. At the entrance of the great door of this Church, lies buried under a plain flat stone, Thomas a Ʋio Caetanus S. Thomas of Aquins' Second, his Brother in Religion, his Namesake, his learned Commentator, and only not he. Out of humility he would not be buried within the Church, but out of it. In the Sacristy of this Church, I saw the Chapel of S. Katherine of Sienna, and this Chapel was once her very chamber in Sienna: Cardinal Antonio Barberino Protector of this order, caused it to be transferred hither from Sienna. Her body lieth under the Altar of the Rosary in this Church. From the Minerva I went to Saint Andrea de la Valle, Saint Andrea della Valle. a fine Church belonging to the Theatins. It's built upon the place where the Theatre of Pompey stood anciently; and where in latter times stood the Palace of the family of the Picolomini; and perchant this was the reason why two Popes of that family, to-wit, Pius Secundus, and Pius Tertius are now buried in this Church. The Cupola was painted by Cavalier Lanfranco; the three corners under the Cupola and the tribune are of the hand of Domenichini. The neat Chapel of the Barberini made by Pope Vrban the VIII while he was but yet Cardinal, is built upon the very place where S. Sebastian was beaten, and thrown into a sink after he had been shot. There had been formerly a little Church built upon this place, and over this sink, but Sixtus Quintus gave leave it should be pulled down, upon condition a chapel of the new designed Church should be built in place of it. In fine, take all this Church together, and it is one of the neatest Churches (except the Basilicae) that are in Rome, being of the Architecture of Maderna. In the piazza, or rather, the street which goes before this Church, lived not long ago, Pietro della Valle that ingenious Roman gentleman, Pietro della Valle. who having spent great means in travelling, hath left us three volumes in quarto of his curious relations of Voyages. In his house here he had three whole Mummies with their coffins or cases painted anciently, and adorned with divers hyeroglyphs. He spent much money in buying many other rarities, which he kept also here. Behind this Church lived, when I first was acquainted with Rome, an other great Virtuoso and Gentleman of Rome, I mean the ingenious Cavalier Pozzo with whom I was brought acquainted, Cavalier. Pozzo. and saw all his rarities, his curious pictures, medals, bassi rilievi, his excellent books of the rarest things in the world, which he caused to be painted, copied, and designed out with great cost. From hence I went to the Palace of the Duke Matthei, The Palace of Matthei. where I saw many good pictures and statues, especially that long picture representing fully the manner of Clement the VIII his going from Rome to take possession of Ferrara. Thence falling in at S. Carlo in Catenari, a neat round Church, I went to the Cancellaria. The Cancellaria. This palace was built of the stones of the Coliseo by Cardinal Riarij. The chief thing I saw in it was the gallery of pictures of Cardinal Barberin, who being Vicechancelour, liveth always in this palace to exercise his charge the better. San Lorenzo in Damaso. This palace looks into the Church of San Lorenzo in Damaso, a Collegiate Church. Under the high Altar reposeth the body of S. Damasus Pope. The walls of the body of the Church are rarely painted with the history of S. Laurence. Not far from hence stands the Palace of Farnesi belonging to the Duke of Parma. The Palace of Farnese. Before it stands a noble piazza with two rare fountains in it. The Palace itself is one of the best in Rome, or elsewhere. It makes an I'll, that is, it hath no houses joining to it. The form of it is square, and it hath in the midst of every square, a great door letting you into the court. This Courtis built upon pillars and arches, with a fair open gallery above letting you into several appartiments. In this Court I saw the famous statue of Hercules leaning upon his club, which was found in the Thermae of Antoninus Car●calla: one of the legs is modern, the rest old, and made by Glyco an Athenian, as the Greek words upon it told me. There is an other statue of Hercules opposite to it, and just like it, but not so good, being but a copy of the former. The other statues here of the two Flora's, the two Gladiators, and others, are excellent pieces. Mounting up the great stairs to go into the chambers and open Gallery, I saw the curious Statue of the boy and the Dolphin: and at the door of the great Hall, the statues of two Parthian captive Kings. Entering into that hall I met presently with the rare statue of Alexander Farnesi, The statue of Alexander Farnesi. Duke of Parma, trampling upon two prostrate statues representing Heresy and Rebellion; while Fame crownes him. All these four several persons are of white marble, and of one entire stone. It's pity that such a statue stands not in some more public place, to teach men to beware of the mother and the daughter, Heresy and Rebellion; and show them, what long hands Kings have. In the same Hall I saw the two excellent statues of Charity, and Plenty, in cumbent postures; and they are the fellows to those two statues which adorn the Tomb of Paulus Tertius, the raiser of this Family, in S. Peter's Church. Round about this room also stand a world of statues of gladiators, standing with their swords in their hands, and in several postures, upon their guard. In the next chamber I saw rare pictures containing some actions of Paulus Tertius; and they are of the hand of Salviati and Federico Zuccari. There is also the picture of Luther disputing with Caietan: and a picture of the four Latin Doctors of the Church, S. Jerome, S. Ambrose, S. Augustin, & S. Gregory, of the hand of Perdonini. In an other chamber, a world of ancient statues of Philosophers and Poets: as Euripides, Plato, Possidonjus, Zeno, Seneca, Diogenes, Bacchus, Meleager, and others. An other room full of pictures of choice hands, and a curious table of pietre commesse about 12 foot long & 5 wide. Then the rare Gallery of statues, with the roof of it painted most admirably by the ravishing hand of great Hannibal Caraccio, and containing the representation of the loves of the Heathen Gods and Goddesses. This painting may be compared, if not preferred, before all the Galleryes of Rome, or Europe; and the very cuts of it in paper pictures, sold at the stationer's shops, are most admirable, and worth buying. In the same gallery also stands the incomparable statue of Apollo in a flint stone. Here is also a curious Library in which besides the curious books, are many rare pieces of miniature, and rare pictures of Raphael, & Titian, and divers excellent designs of the same Raphael, and of Michael Angelo; that especially of his judgement. Returning again through the same rooms, I could not but gaze again at the statue of my favourite. Heros, Alexander Farnesi, and began at last to think that I was mistaken even now when I said, that Hercules his Statue stood in the Court below; for upon better reflection, I find no statue in the palace to resemble Hercules so much, as this of Alexander of Parma; of whom I may say, as Silvius said of Caesar, In uno Caesare, multi sunt Marii: in one Alexander of Parma, there are many Herculese. Then mounting up into an appartiment over the former, I saw divers chambers exquisitely furnished with pictures, and lesser statues. In the long gallery there are divers rare pieces of the hand of Caraccio. In the other rooms many ancient curious things, as an ancient piece of painting found in Adrian's Villa and made fifteen hundred years ago; an other ancient picture of Eugenius the IV studyeing, and S. Bernard standing by him. A rare design of Vassari representing a town in Flanders taken by Alexander Farnesi. Michael Angelo's true picture. The Venus of Michael Angelo. The little old picture of our Lady and S. john Baptist in a small mosaic work. A Crucifix in ivory of Michael Angelos making. The design, or rather the perfect model of the bridge thrown over the Sceld, by which Alexander Farnesi took Antwerp. A great cabinet of Medals; with a world of other rarities too long to be related, but never enough to be seen. Then descending into a little back court, I saw there the famous Toro. The famous Bull. It is a statue of a great Bull, to whose horns a rope being tied at one end and at the other end of it a woman's hair, two lusty fellows are striveing to push this bull from a promontory into the sea below, and the woman together with him, to make her away. The story is known, and it is of Amphion and Zetus, who to revenge their mother Antiope, for the wrong done her by Dirce (who had got Licus King of Thebes to repudiate Antiope for to marry her) took this Dirce, and tyeing her to a bulls horns threw them both, the Bull and the woman, into the Sea. The Bull, the two brothers, the woman, a little boy, and a dog, are all cut out of one marble stone. The snaffling fellow that keeps this Bull, or rather, whom this Bull keeps, will tell you another story of this statue through the nose: but seeing he sells his story, as well as tells it, you had better give him à julio betimes to be rid of him, then hear another long and new fable. Going from hence into the great Piazza again, I stepped into the house of the signori Pighini, which stands over against the Palace of Farnesi, to see two statues, the one of Venus, the other of Adonis; both ancient ones, and so rarely made, that the Earl of Arondel, late Lord Marshal of England, offered twelve thousand crowns for them, but was refused. Passing from hence towards the palace of Cardinal Spada, I entered into it, and there saw many exquisite pictures. Ponte Sisto. The Hospital of the holy Trinity. Thence I went to Ponte Sisto, and from thence to the Hospital of the Trinity, which receives all Pilgrims coming to Rome, for three days, and treateth them plentifully. I confess, I went often hither, and as often admired the wonderful charity which is done here daily; but especially in the holy week in lent, by the Confraternity of this Hospital, of which, most are gentlemen. Here Noblemen, Bishops, and Cardinals wash the Pilgrim's feet, and then serve them at supper in the long Refectory, where there are frequently in the holy week, four hundred pilgrims at once, at table. Returning from hence I went to S. Girolamo della Charita, S. Girolamo della Charita. a Church, and house of good Priests, and most of them Gentlemen, living of their own expenses, yet all in community. S. Philip Neri instituted them, and lived among them thirty years. In the Church I saw upon the High Altar, an excellent picture of S. Jerome. Hard by stands the English College, The English College. once an Hospital for the English, and built by the English merchants in Rome, to receive English pilgrims in; because a poor English woman had been found worryed by dogs in the night, for want of a lodging. In the Church of this College, lies buried Cardinal Alan, the last English Cardinal of our Nation. From hence I went to the Chiesa Nuona The Chiesa Nuona. belonging to the good Priests of the Oratory. This is one of the neatest Churches in Rome, and the best served. It's all painted in the roof by the rare hand of Pietro di Cartona, and richly guilt. Here I saw the neat Chapel of S. Philip Neri, a primitive Saint in all things but time. He was the Institutor of this holy Company of Priest, who are Religious men in all things but in vows, and name. The Chapel and Altar of this great Saint is on the Gospel side the of High Altar, his true picture there, was made by Guido Rheni. Under this Altar, in a lower Chapel, or Vault, lieth the body of this Saint in an iron chest: if you desire to know his merits and life, ask all Rome which lately saw them, and daily feels them. On the other side of the High Altar within the rails, lies buried Caesar Baronius, once a Priest of this house, and forced, after much reluctancy, to be made Cardinal by Clement the VIII. Cardinal Caesar Baronius. He deserved this honour in the opinion of all men, for having written his incomparable Ecclesiastical history; and if Hercules, for helping Atlas to bear up heaven one day only, was feigned by Poets to have deserved to be taken up to heaven; I may justly say, that Baronius deserved well the purple of the Church, for having alone borne up the cause of the Church of God, against a whole troop of Centuriators. For my part, I reckon it among my felicities, to have lived after Baronius, and to have spent a good part, of three years' study in reading his Sacred Annals, which cost him ten times three years' study in writing. And here I could enter into a fair field of his praises; and like the Eagle in the story, having nothing else to give him, give him a feather, that is, one cast of my pen; but that I write of counties now, and not of men; and that his full praises may be included in those three short encomiums; Ecclesiae Cocles; Caesar Christianus; Orbis Locupletator. The house of these good Priests deserves also to be seen for the Libraries sake, which is one of the best in Rome: The Oratory. and for the great Oratoryes sake, where there is every Sunday and Holiday in winter at night, the best Music in the world. La Pace. From hence I went to the Church de la Pace, a neat Church and adorned with excellent painting and statues. Here many famous painters have signalised their memories, as Peruzza of Sienna, Vasari, Lavinia a Lady of Bolognia, Fontana, Gentileschi, Cavalier Gioseppe, Rossi, and Raphael Urbin himself, who painted the Prophets and Sibylls in the Chapel of Augustin● Chigi: and some think that he made the little boys that are so well done. The statues of S. Peter & S. Paul, are of the hand of Michael Angelo. Going from hence through the street of the Stationers, I came to the Piazza di Pasquino, which is thought to be the very centre of Rome. And here I cannot forget Pasquin himself, Pasquin. who forgets no man. This Pasquin is an old broken statue, something like that of Hercules in the Beluedere described above, and of some rare hand. And because it stands near three, of four streets, whereby to escape when they have fixed their Libells ●eering wits set up here, and father upon poor Messer Pasquino, their Satirical jests, called from him, Pasquinades; which Morforius, another statue near the Capitol, useth to answer. From hence passing on to the Church of S. Pantaleon belonging to the Fathers of the Scholae Piae, S. Pantaeleon. I was willing to enter into it, and see it, because four hundred years ago, it was a Collegiate Church, and possessed by English Priests, as may appear by the Inscription upon a Bell which was cast then. From hence I stepped into Piazza Navona, Piazza Navona. called so by corruption from Piazza d'Agona, because this piazza was anciently a Circus for sports, and it was called Circus Agonalis. In the midst of it anciently stood a great Egyptian pillar with hieroglyphs upon it; and now of late it hath gotten an other such pillar set up here by Pope Innocent the X, with a rare fountain yssuing forth at the foot of it, and adorned with four great statues of white marble representing the four parts of the world. In this place also stands the new Church of S. Agnes built upon the place where she was condemned to the stews. The Church of S. Agnes, This Church is built at the cost of Prencipe Pamphilio, whose Palace joins upon it. This Palace over looking the Piazza Navona deserve not only a glance of an eye, but also an hour's inspection within. The Palazzo Pamphilio. The chambers are many and fair, and the great Hall a most lonely room, if painting, and variety of pictures in frames can make a house handsome. In this Piazza also I saw the palace of the Duke of Bracciano, of the house of Orsini: and that of the family of Torres. The Spanish Church here, called S. jacomos', S. jacomo is not to be forgotten: Here lies buried in it Petrus Ciaconius a learned Critic for a Spaniard. The picture here in oil of San Diego is of Annibal Caracio. Oueragainst the back door of this Church stands the Sapienza, The Sapienza. a fair College, where the public Lectures are read. This College was begun by Eugenius the IIII, but much beautified of late with handsome schools and a neat Church, by Vrban the VIII. and a public Library by Alexander the VII. We have had, in my time, two Englishmen that were Readers here; Doctor Hart; and Doctor Gibbs a Noble Caesarean Laureate Poet, & the Horace of this age. From hence passing through the Piazza Madama, and before the Palace of the Grand Duca, I went to S. Lewis his Church belonging to the French Nation. S. Lewis. It's a handsome Church, and well served with French Priests. There's also an Hospital belonging to that Church and Nation. In the Church I found upon a pillar on the left hand, the picture of great Cardinal Dossat a French man, whom I may justly call Great, because he was both a great Statesman, and yet a very good man; that is, he was a great servant to his King; and yet a great servant of God. His rare Letters show the one; and his life written by Du Verdier, shows the other. Here lies also buried in the middle almost of this Church, an English Priest of great virtue, by name, More, of the family of great Sir Thomas More, and heir of that family, if I mistake not. His younger brother and he striving whether of them should be Priest, it was his prerogative of age, which making him to be four and twenty before his brother, made him enter into Orders before him and become Priest; leaving the Estate to his brother. It was he, that set us out the life of Sir Thomas More in English: at last, retireing to Rome to be Agent for his brethren the Clergy, having ended his business there happily (which was the procureing of a Catholic Bishop) he ended his life so too, and was buried here by his own choice. From hence I went to the Palace of justiniani, The Palace of justiniani which is hard by. Here I saw so many statues of the old Heathen Gods, and such rooms full of old marble feet of them, that you would almost swear the Heathen Gods, when they were banished out of the Pantheon, had been committed hither as to a prison: or that some of the ancestors of this house, had been shoemakers to the old Gods, and therefore was obliged to have their lasts and measures. For they had Gods of all sizes, seeing (as Varro saith) they had 30000 Gods▪ a world of these statues are yet seen in the Gallery above, and in every room in the house, which they clog rather than adorn. And yet scarce one of them, but is a Palladium to this Family; and would portend its sudden ruin if alienated. For, as I remember, the old Prince justiniani dying without heirs male, left this man his heir, with this proviso, that he should not so much as alienate one statue upon pain of forfeiting the whole house and goods. judge then, whether he had not need to keep these statues chained up, as the Tyrians did their Gods in a Siege: or whether the throwing of one of these statues out of the window, would not be properly a throwing the house out of the windows. Upon which occasion, I cannot omit to tell you how the ancient statues of Rome were grown at last to be so many in number, Cassiod. l. 7. that (as Cassiodore saith wittily of them) posteritas pene parem populum urbi dedit, quam natura procreavit, posterity had made almost as many men by art in the City, as were made by nature. And these statues grew to that excess too, that marble ones were thought too Vulgar, and gold and silver ones were erected by riotous men, who scorned to be like others in any thing but in being mortal. But to return again to this house, I cannot leave it without minding you of some rare pictures, of Titian and other prime masters, which are shown in the Gallery above; especially the rare picture of S. john the Evangelist of the hand of Raphael Urbin; and that of our Lady and S. Joseph in an other room, which is a rare copy of that famous picture in the cloister of the Annunciata in Florence, of Andrea del Sarto. From hence I went to the Church of S. Eustachio, S. Eustachio. having seen in the way, the goodly ruins of the Therm of Alexander Severus. In the Porch of this Church I saw an Inscription in a stone, which told me that Alexander of Parma was Christened here with his brother, being twins. This Church stands in the place where S. Eustachius with his wife Theopista, and his sons Agapitus and Theopistus, were put into a brazen bull & martyred by the brazen heart of Trajan, whom Eustachius had served twice as General of his Armies, and gained him as many Victories. From hence I went to the Rotonda, otherwise called anciently, the Pantheon, The Rotonda or Pantheo● because it was dedicated to all the Gods. This is a bolder piece of Architecture than men think. For whereas other Vaults are strengthened and made good by being shut up close at the top, and in the centre of the Vault, which hinders the Vault from shrinking; here this great massive vault is left wide open at the top, with a hole above three yards wide in diamenter. Indeed Sebastianus Serlius, an experience● man in Frabriks', thinks this Church to be the unick example of perfect Architecture; and Pliny in his time, placed it among the rarest works that were then extant. It hath no windows in it, nor any other light, but what comes in at the wide hole mentioned obove. Anciently it was covered with brazen tiles, and those guilt too, as Lipsius thinks; but now it's covered with great flat stones. It's a hundred and forty foot high, and as many broad: and yet it hath no pillars to bear up that great roof. Indeed it hath thrust all the Pillars out of doors, and makes them wait in the Porch; where there are thirteen great pillars all of one piece, each one 53 foot high, and six in diameter, all of a garnite, or spackled marble. The Capitelli of these Pillars are the best in Rome of Corinthian order. Here is the Tomb of the incomperable Painter Raphael Urbin. Ille hic est Raphael, timuit quo sospite Vinci Rerum magna parens, & moriente mori. In this Temple stood anciently the famous Minerva made by Phidias of which histories ring. Here also was placed the Statue of Venu●, in whose ear that incomparable pearl of Cleopatra hung, which upon a riotous wager with M. Antony (whether of them should make the most costly supper) she was going to throw into a glass of vieger to macerate it (as she had done another before) and drink it up: But M. Antony stopping her hand, and confessing himself overcomne, the Pearl, saith Pliny, was put in the Ear of Venus in the Pantheon. In the round holes over the Altars, where set those heads of the Gods of the Heathens, which are now seen in the Beluedere of the Maschere. This Temple and its Porch, were so lined anciently with brass, that there was enough of it to make divers great Cannons, by Pope Urbans command, and the great Canopy with the four pillars which adorn S. Peter's High Altar. And though the People and Pasquin, two equally senseless things, murmured much at the taking away of this brass, yet seeing the Pantheon received no damage thereby, and seeing it was improved to that height, that it became Ecclesiae Ornamentum & Vrbi Munimentum, the wiser sort of men thought it well employed, and let the people and malice talk. I had almost forgot to tell you, that this Temple was made by Agrippa, who had been thrice Consul, as the words in the Architrave of the porch yet show. From hence I went through the Campo Marzo, unto the Church of S. Lorenzo in Lucina, S. Lorenzo in Lucina. which is served by Cherici Regolari Minori. It's an ancient Church neatly repaired of late, and the greatest Parish Church in Rome. The Palace of Burghesi. From hence I went to see the Palace of Burghesi which is hard by. This is one of the noblest Palaces in Rome. It gives you a fair broadside of windows, three stories one over another; and its length is prodigious. Mounting up to the Chambers I found a fair open Gallery built upon arches and pillars round about the Court. This Gallery lets you into several appartiments; and on that side which overlooks the Piazza, I saw a row often or twelve great Chambers through which I looked at once. In these chambers and the other rooms, I observed these things. 1. Rich hangings, and over them rare painting made by a Capucin Lay-brother. The history of the Queen of Sabas coming to visit Salomon's Court, and the rapt of the Sabines, which make this Fregi● over the hangings, are so rarely well done, that Raphael and Michael Angelo would not have mended them for colours. 2. A great Cabinet of Ebeny, set with histories cast in gold, and set with rich precious stones; it's valued at threescore thousand crowns. 3. A rare picture of Hercules and Anteus. 4. Raphael's own picture. 5. The last supper by Titian. 6. The Terrasse and garden with box kotts and fountains of water, all at the very top of the house and over looking the street, river, meadows, and S. Peter's. 7. The little back gallery of pictures, where among others, I was shown the pictures of Martin Luther, Nicolas Macchiavel, and Caesar Borgia; There great Corruptors; of Religion, Polioy, and Manners 8. The low cool gallery full of statues and pictures, especially of the Borghesian Family. That of Paulus Quintus in a small Mosaic work is scarce to be discovered from painting: as also the Assumption of our Lady in the same work. There I saw also Titians own picture, and the rare Crucifix made by Michael Angelo, so to life, that some men have fabulously given out that he drew it after a crucified man. Mausoleum Augusti. From hence I went to see the Mausoleum Augusti, or the Tomb of Augustus Caesar, standing near S. Rocks Church in a private place hard to be found out. It was once one of the neatest structures in Rome. And it was but fitting that the first of the Emperors should have an honourable tomb; and that he who having found Rome built of brick only, had left it all of marble, should have a marble monument erected to him after his death. Vrbem Lateritiam inveni, marmoriam relinquo: said Augustus. Sueton. The Mausoleum was a round building of white marble, going up with four stories set round with pillars, and each story growing lesser and lesser, with green trees set ab●●t every story; having at the top of ●ll, the brazen statue of Augustus, It was two hundred and fifty cubits high. But how it's much defaced, and we see something of the greatness of it, but little of its beauty. Going from hence to the Church of S. Antony of Milan belonging to the Portughesi, S. Ant. di Milan. I saw the Tomb of the Great Canonist and Casuist Navarre or Martin Aspelcuita, with his statue in busto over it. This good man hearing how his great friend Caranza was called to Rome to answer for himself in points of doctrine, which he was falsely accused of; followed him thither of his own accord, to deffend his cause and clear his innocency, and having done it, died here. Near to this Church stands the Church and Convent of the Austîn Friars. S. Augustino. In the Church I saw the Tomb of S. Monica mother to S. Augustin. Here also lies buried Onufrius Panuinus, a Friar of this Convent, learned in sacred antiquityes, and in the Hebrew tongue. In the Convent I often saw the neat Library, called Bibliotheca Angelica, Bibliotheca Angelica. bec●se Angelus Rocca, a Bishop and Master of the Pope's Sacristy, gave it at his death to his Convent; with an obligation of letting it be open in the mornings. Among many curious books, I remember to have seen there the Prophecies of Joachim, joachims' Prophecy of the Turks. where among other things, he saith, that the Turks shall be overcomne and ruined by three nations: by the French, propter bonos equos: by the English, propter bonos marinarios: and by the Venetians, propter bonum consilium. These are his very words. S. Apollinaris. The Germane College. The Pallozzo d'Altemps. Near to the forsayd Church stands the Church of S. Apollinaris, and the Germane College. Here the best singers of Rome meet constantly. Over against this Church stands the Palace of the Duke of Altemps▪ In which I saw the great Hall, and in it, the Triumph of Bacchus in a basso rilievo cut in marble with exquisite art. I saw also here the representation of a Town cut in wood, an ancient and curious piece. The picture of our B. Lady with her son in her arms, valued at five thousand pistols; it is of Raphael's hand. The neat Library full of divers good manuscripts and other books. In fine the noble Chapel with the Tomb of S. Anaclet Pope under the Altar with the head of this Saint in the Sacristy, enchased in silver and set thick with rich stones. The rich ornaments here for the Church service, cost the Duke a hundred and twenty thousand crowns. From hence, in fine, I went to S. john florentin's a neat Church belonging to the Florentines, S. John florentin's Church. at whose cost it was built. Here is in one of the Chapels the picture of our Saviour's Resurrection made by Lanfranc a rare piece. And being lodged near this Church, I found that I had wandered over all Rome, and was now come again to the Bridge of S. Angelo, were I began my first day's journey through Rome. But seeing that in such towns as this, there is always something to be seen after all, I made many irregular excursions up and down Rome, to view many things, which I had not taken in my direct way before: as some palaces, some rare fountains, divers antiquities, studies of virtuosos, and the like, which I have been forced, for methods sake, to pass over: yet because there are whole books of all the palaces, fountains, statues, and antiquityes, set forth in cuts and pictures, I remit my Reader to them, while I ask one question. Where are now those rare pieces of antiquity which histories rather mention, than we find now in Rome? as the Cymboum Marij; the Gregostasis; the Curia Hostilia; the Golden House of Nero; the Theatre of Pompey, Tertull. Lib. de Spectac. c. 10. of which Tertullian saith, Pompeius Magnus solo suo theatro minor; the Forum Neruae; the Theatre of Statilius Taurus; the Septizonium Severi; the Tower of Maecenas; the Hippodromus; the House of Gordianus; the Circus Flaminius; the Circus Maximus; the Atrium Libertatis; Scipios house; the Triumphal Arch of Augustus Caesar, of Domitian; and a world of other such rare buildings, whereby the Romans thought to have eternised their memories; if you ask for these things in books, you shall find their names only; if you look for them now in Rome, you shall find no marks at all of them: which makes me cry out with petrarch; Crede mihi aliis quam lapideis fundamentis eget gloria, Petrarc. In Remed. utriusq. Fort. ut sit mansura: believe me true permanent glory stands in need of other foundations than those of stone. Hence janus Vitalis an ingenious Italian Poet, having observed, that all the old massive buildings of Rome are moultered away, and that Fluid Tiber only remains still, cries out with this sweet moral. Disce hinc quid possit fortuna; immota labascunt, Et quae perpetuo sunt fluitura, manent. But I cannot leave Rome without taking notice of the Devotion, Music, Ceremonies, shows, Government, and the inhabitants of this place: of each of which I will give a touch, both for my Travellers' sake, and my Readers. Devotion in Rome. And first, for the Devotion of Rome I found it to be very great and real in those places where the Quarante Hore and Stations are kept. For all the year long the Quarante Hore go from one Church to an other, through all the Churches of Rome▪ and there you shall always see a world of devout people praying and meditating, and hearing the sermons, and giving of alms, and all this with that profund respect and silence, with that assiduity and concourse, with that fervour and zeal, that you need not ask where the station is, but only observe where you see the people flocking so fast in the morneing, and where the poor make the greatest hedge and lane. In other Churches of Rome upon their festival days (which happen almost every day, in one place or other) they have the best music can begot and though this seems to draw men's ears to the Church, rather than their hearts; yet when I remember what elevated thoughts it breeds in the mind; and how innocently it detains men from doing worse, I cannot but place Church music among the acts of devotion. Now, as for this music, The music of Rome. it is the best in the world, and in the best kind, which is voices. For my part, having read in a learned Author, that the hating of music is a sign of a soul quite out of tune, and not right strung for predestination; and that the Scythian king, who held the neighing of his horse, to be far better music, than the pipe of famous Thimotheus, was held for an ass himself; I thought it both comely and lawful to love music: & being in a place where the best music was, I frequented it often with singular satisfaction. Now the best music I heard, was the music of the Pope's Chapel consisting of pure voices, without any organ, or other instruments: every singer here kowing his part so well, that they seem all to be masters of music. Then the music of the Chies● Nova; of S. Apollinaris; upon S. Cecilyes day in the Church of that Saint the Patroness of singers; of the Oratory of S. Marcello every Friday in Lent; of the jesuits dureing the Quaerante hore in shrovetide; of every good Church of Nuns upon their patron's day; especially that of the Nuns of Campo Marzo, where I heard often Fonseca sing sorarely well, that she seemed to me, to cheer up much the Church in its combats; & to make the Church Militant either look like the Church Triumphant, or long for it. In a word, whosoever loves music and hears but once this of Rome▪ thinks he hath made a saveing journey to Rome, and is well paid for all his pains of coming so far. Having given my ears many a breakfast upon the music, I gave my eyes many a Collation upon the Ceremonies of Rome, The Ceremonies. which were chiefly these. The Ceremony of the Pope's opening of the Porta Santa, of S. Peter's Church in the jubily year. The Ceremonies of the Pope's Chapel, when he assists there, especially upon Candlemas day, Palmesunday, Mandy Thursday &c The Ceremony of the Pope's washing of thirteen pilgrims feet; of his singing mass publicly in S. Peter's Church upon S. Peter's day and other great days; the Ceremony of Beatifyeing and of Canonizeing of Saints; the Ceremony of his creating new Cardinals, and giving them their cap in public Consistory, the Ceremony of the Mass sung in Greek and according to the Greek rites, in the Church of the Greek Seminary, upon the Feast of the Epiphany, and S. Athanasius his day; the Ceremony of baptizeing the jews; with a world of others. One ceremony I was not unwilling to miss in my five several voyages, because it always implies the death of a Spiritual Father, I mean, the Ceremony of a Seed Vacant: and of all the bad compliments that ever I heard made, I like none so ill as that of a noble man of Germany, who being asked by Pope Innocent the X, whether he had seen all the Ceremonies of Rome, answered, that he had seen all, but a Sed● Vacant, as if he had said; Holy Father, I have seen all the fine sights of Rome, but your death. A horrible Tramontane compliment, which put even the Pope himself to a smile. As for the Shows, I saw divers, both Sacred and Profane. As the wipping Processions in the Holy week. The great Procession from S. Marcellos Oratory to S. Peter's Church upon Mandy Thursday in the Holy year. The Shows of Rome. Sacred. The Spanish Procession in Piazza Navona upon Easter day in the morning in the Holy year. The Procession of the Zitelle upon our Lady's day in Lent. The Procession of the Priests of the Oratory upon shrof-tuesday to the seven Churches▪ with five or six thousands persons following of them, all whom they treat in an open field, giving every one a couple of hard eggs, and a slice of salsigia, with bread and wine. The several Cavalcatas of the Pope and Cardinals. The Spanish Cavalcata upon S. Peter's Eve, when the Spanish Ambassador presents the purse of gold, and the Jennet. The Girandola and fire works upon S. Peter's Eve, and divers such like sacred triumphs. For the Profane Shows, Profane I saw the solemn Entryes of Ambassadors, especially those of Obedience, wh●ere each Prince's Ambassador strive to out vie the other, and by excessive expenses make their master's greatness appear above that of others. Their Cavalcatas to Court upon their public audience: their reception in a public Consistory: their audience of Leave, are all stately. Then the curious Opere, or musical Drammata recited with such admirable art, and set forth with such wonderful changes of Scenes, that nothing can be more surprising. Here I have seen upon their stages, rivers swelling, and boats rowing upon them, water's overflowing their banks and stage, men flyeing in the air, serpents crawling upon the stage, houses falling on the sudden, Temples and Boscos' appearing, whole towns, known Towns, starting up on the sudden with men walking in the streets; the sun's appearing and chaseing away darkeness, sugar plumms fall upon the spectators heads like hail, rubans flash in the ladies faces like lightning with a thousand such like representations. In fine, the Carneval pomps in the streets exhibited by noblemen with great cost and glory. The Government of Rome. As for the Government of Rome, I found it divided into two parts: the Government of the City; and the Government of the Church. That of the City is exactly performed by a Governor (some Prelate of great parts) constituted by the Pope to watch over the City carefully, That of the City. and to render him an acount weekly of all that passeth. This Governor liveth always in the heart of the City, and hath besides his own guards, a Barigello or Captain of the Sbirri or Sergeants, to keep all in order and awe, both day, and night. This Barigello hath, Argus' like, a hundred eyes to spy into the deportments of all that live in Rome, and, Briareus like, as many hands, to carry to prison those that infringe the Laws. Hence justice here is as exactly performed, as orders are discreetly given out. The prices of all things are printed and affixed in public places and shops; Inns and Taverns are bound to have them set up in their entrance, that strangers may know the rates of all provisions, and blame none but themselves, if they be cozened. So that it's as hard a thing to be cozened here, as its hard not to bo cozened in other places. And for those that cannot read, or speak the language well, Sbirri will ask of them, what they paid a meal, how much for a pound of meat, how much for a pint of such and such wine, etc. and if they find them to have been cozened either in the quantity, weight, or price, they'll right the stranger beyond his expectation, and punish the delinquent beyond his desire. The last jubily year I was shown some of the Sbirri in Pilgrim's habits on purpose, to mingle themselves with the other pilgrims, the better to observe how they were used or abused by their Hosts in Inns and Taverns, and accordingly punish them. In fine, justice is so well administered here, and imprisoning cases so many, that the last Prince of Conde being in Rome, said he wondered much at one thing there, which was to see so many men go out of their houses in the morneing, and return home again to dinner without being imprisoned. A kinfe in a man's pocket, a dark Lantern, a sword worn without leave, etc. will suffice to make a man be sent to prison: and a pocks pistol found about you, or in your cloak-bag, is enough to make you be sent to the Galleys with tre tratti di corda, that is, the strappada thrice: yet they mitigate the rigour of these laws to strangers who offend out of ignorance. That of the Church. As for the government of the Church, that's done partly by the Pope himself in several Congregations held before him: partly by his Vicar General, a Cardinal who hath under him a Vicegerent (a Bishop) to help him. There's scarce a day in the week but the Pope holds one Congregation or other, about Church affairs, in which Congregations not only Cardinals intervene, but also Bishops and Doctors; and where all businesses are headed, as well as handled with great deliberation. Every three weeks the Pope holds a Concistory, where all the Cardinals that are in Rome, meet his Holiness, as at a Grand Counsel, to advise with him concerning the necessary affairs of the Church. And its pretty to see how like the motions of a well ordered watch, all businesses here move at once, and yet never interfere or clash with one another. As for the Inhabitants of Rome, The Inhabitants of Rome. they follow the fortune of their City; and as when Rome was but yet a new town, the inhabitants where but three thousand in all, saith Dionysius, and when it was come to its full growth, it had three or four millions of people, in so much that in a great plague the Bills of mortality came to ten thousand men a day, Euseb. in Chronico. and this for many days together: so now Rome having been six times s●ckt and ruined (as I said above) is not the tenth part so populous as heretofore it was; and even those inhabitants that are now in Rome, are for the most part originary from other parts of Italy and Europe; and have been drawn to take up here either by preferments or business. The Nobility itself is for the mayor part foreign and sprung out of such families of Popes, Princes, and Cardinals as have been foreign before their promotions and preferments. The true ancient and illustrious Roman families I found to be these few, Ursini, Colonna, Savelli, Frangepani and some few others. Having thus, as Painters do, taken Rome in all her postures, I confess it happened to me, as it did to Apelles takeing the picture of Compaspe; that is, by looking so often and so attentively upon Rome I began to be so far in love with it, as not only to subscribe to Cassiodorus his opinion, Cassiod. Epist. who affirms it to be akind of crime not to live in Rome, when you can do it. Piaculi genus est absentem sibi Romam dintius facere, qui in ea constitutis possit laribus habitare; but also to subscribe to our old Britain Kings, Cadwallader, Cedwalla, Coenred, offa, Ina and Burrhed, who thought Rome also to best place to die in. For if those places be thought by all men, the best places to live in, Rome a fine place to live in. where a man may learn the most experimental knowledge, & how to menage great affairs; where can a man learn more knowledge then in Rome? where all languages are spoken, all sciences are taught, the ablest men of Europe meet, all the best records are found, all wits appear as upon their true theatre, all foreign Ambassadors render themselves, all Nuncios at their return to Rome unload themselves of the observations they have made abroad; and where every stone almost is a book; every statue a master; every inscription a lesson, every Antichamber an Academy? And again, if those places be the best to die in, And a fine place to die in. where all comforts of the soul are best had; what place can be better to die in then Rome? the very centre and bosom itself of Catholic Communion; and where there is so much Devotion, and so much Virtue partised; and where you have this comfort also in you grave; that you lie in a ground which hath been bathed in the blood of so many thousand martyrs. And thus much of Rome, in the describing of which, if I have been too Frolixe, remember that great Ladies are long in dressing: if too short, remember that I only relate what I saw there, not all that is to be seen there. My journey from Rome to Naples. Having thus seen Rome, I agreed with the Procaccio, to carry me to Naples. Others take with them a Vetturino, that lets them have horses, and diets them to; I mean, defrays a man for meat and drink and horsed hire both going, and coming, and your horse five days at Naples (but not your diet there) and lets you have his horses two days, to go see Veswius and Pozzolo; and all this for fourteen, or fifteen corwnes a man. It's true, a man is ill lodged, and bad by treated in that journey, but it doth a gentle man good to be acquainted with hardship. Parting then from Rome by the Gate of S. john Lateran we passed through these places. Marino, Marino. a neat little town belonging to Cardinal Colonna. It looks like a painted town. Veletri, Veletri. famous for the birth of the ancestors of Augustus Caesar. Here's a brazen Statue of urban the VIII, and a neat palace and garden of Cardinal Ginetti. It's an Episcopal town. The Tre Tavern where S. Paul was met, Tre Tavern. at his first coming to Rome, by the Christians of Rome. Act. 28. v. ●5. Peperno where Camilla the Amazon was borne. Peperno. Fossa N●oua where S. Thomas of Aquin going to the Council of Lions, Fossa N●ona▪ fell sick and died. Taracina (old Anxur) the head town of the Vols●ians, Taracina but now bare and bald; showing nothing but some old ruins of the haven which Antoninus Pius here adorned; and of an old Temple. It's an Episcopal town. Not far from hence stood anciently the town Amyclae, Amiclae. that Pythagorical, or Puritanical town, which was ruined by Serpents, because none would kill them; Pythagoras his doctrine forbidding men to to kill any living creature. Seru. in lib. 10. Aeneid. An other time it was ruined by silence; no man daring to speak of the enemies coming; too many false alarms having made the magistrates forbid under pain of death, that no man should speak any more of the enemies coming: so that when they came indeed, no man durst speak of it. Amyclas silentium perdidit. Proverb. apud S. Hieron. Thus not only Philosophy, but even Silence itself and Obedience, two noble Virtues, are hurtful to men, if they be not accompanied with discretion. From Taracina we went to Fundi to supper, having passed through a forest of bay trees, and through an open gate called Portello, which lets men into the kingdom of Naples. Fundi is so called because it's built in a low flat. It's ancient if you believe you ears, not your eyes. For it looks younger, Fundi. than the other towns I had passed through before. The reason is, because this town was burned some 130 years ago by Caradin Barbarozza, admiral of the Great Turk Solyman. Leo Afer▪ It was this Caradin, who of á famous Pirate, became King of Algiers, having persuaded those of Algiers to shake off the Spanish yoke. This Caradin being upon the Mediterranean Sea, and hea●ing by his spies, that Julia Gonsaga (widow of Vespasian Colonna, and the handsomest woman in the world) lived here in Fundi, landed his men in the night, and sent them to catch her napping; resolueing to make a fine present of her to his lewd master Solyman. But she leaping out of her bed, rid a way in her very linen, escaped so narrowly, that had she stayed to put on any clothes, she had for ever, put off all liberty. The Pirates missing of this fair Helena, failed not to make a burning Troy of Fundi; ransacking it and carryeing away the best of its inhabitants: such dangerous things are great beauties to weak towns. From Fundi we went to Mola, upon the Via Appia, The Via Appia. so called because Appius Claudius a noble Roman made it at his own cost dureing his Consulat. This Causeway is one of the greatest proofs of the Romans greatness and riches. For it was five day's journey long, beginning at Rome, and reaching through the kingdom of Naples, to Brundisium. It was as broad as two carts might easily meet upon it and pass: it was all of great black flint stones, each one as big as two men can carry, See Plutarch in Graccho. and laid so close together, that they have held together these 1800 years, and Seem, as Procopius saith ingeniously, to be rather congeniti, then congesti, borne together, Procop. l. 1. d● bell. Goth then laid together. The frequent passing of horses and mule● (for so many years) upon this cawssey, have made it both so smooth and shyneing, that when the Sun shine● upon it, you may see it glitter two miles of, like a silver highway. Mola. Formiaes. Arriveing at Mola, called anciently Formiae, I went to see Cicero's Tomb which stands in a garden not far off. And I the more willingly believe it to be his Tomb, because its certain, that Tully had a Villa in Formiis (which was this place) and thither he was going in his litter, when he was overtaken by the executioners of the Triumuiri and beheaded. Val. Max. l. 1. c. 4. There are no words upon his Tomb; of which if you ask me the reason, I can only tell you, that either words in prose could not speak, their Tully being dead; or verses would not, out of envy, praise him, who had made prose so famous. Having seen this, some of our Company and I, took a boat and four lusty watermen, to row us to Caëta and back again, Caëta. while the rest stayed at Mola to provide dinner. Arriveing in little more than half an hour at Caëta, we went up to the Castle, where we saw the skelleton of Charles Bourbon, once Constable of France, but afterwards takeing against his own King upon a disgust, he served the Emperor Charles the V, and was made one of his Generals, and Governor of Milan. Where having borrowed money of the Milanesi, and having laid a deep curse upon Himself (wishing the might die in the first enterprise he under took) if he paid not back the money by such a time, The Bp. of Belie in his histories. he failed in his word, but his curse did not. For his next enterprise was to go sack Rome: and there his curse met him as he scaled the walls; & being shot with a musket bullet he was forced to pay his debt to nature. His body was carried to Caëta, Bourbons Body. where it stands with its clothes, boots and spurs on, in a long box straight up, with this Spanish Epitaph over his head. Francia mi dio la lecche, Fspagna los y Ventura, Roma mi dio la muerte, Gaëta la Sepoltura. France gave me milk, Spain great employments gave, Rome gave me death, and here Gaët a grave. This Castle standing upon a Promontory over looketh the town, and thirty miles of Sea. In the end of the town, towards land side (for this town is a pure Peninsula) I saw the Cloven Rock, The Cloven Rock. which Tradition here holds to have been thus cloven at our Saviour's death: The long stairs going down between the two mountains in the very open gash, and rendering you to a neat chapel below, strike you all the way long with a sacred reverence, and are able almost to rend also a stony heart in two, with the thought of our Saviour's passion. Upon the top of all this Promontory there is an ancient monument of Manutius Plancus an old Roman, with a great deal of old Latin upon it; but my riding boots put me out of all reading humour, and I was very willing to let Plancus lie quietly in his monument above, so I could but recover again our boat & there sit still. Of this town was the famous Cardinal Caëtanus, of S. Thomas Aquinas his name, order, and almost learning. This town was built by Aeneas in honour of his Nurse Caëta who died here. Returning again to Mola we went after dinner to see Cicero's Grotte, Cicero's Grotte. and so away. We had not ridden three houred but we came to the Ferry of Carigliano, The Ferry of Carigliano. near to which I saw the fair rests of an old amphitheatre standing alone in the fields, with the rests also of an Aqueduct. I wondered at first to see an Amphitheatre standing alone, and far from any great town: but upon enquiry, I found that here had stood once a noble town called Minturna, Minturna. but now so ruined, that not one stone of it appeareth. Indeed we are often at this fault in Italy, and look for towns in corn fields. Luna, Populonia, Cuma, Baiae, and Minturna cheat thus our expectations, and leave us no monument of themselves, but a poor Fuit Jlium: which though it be Travellers' loss▪ yet its man's comfort, that towns to die as well as he: Hence Rutilius: Non indignemur mortalia corpora solui; Carnimus exemplis oppida posse mori. Having passed over the river in a Ferry boat, we entered upon the meadows, in whose fens called (the Fens of Minturna) Caius Marius lay hid a while, and there with his stern looks and manly voice, saying, Darest thou kill Caius Marius? so terrified the slave that was sent thither to kill him, that he let him escape to his ship, and so into afric. Plutark. He may speak big that speaks for his life; and any looks become a man, when he looks to himself well in dangers. While we rod along these meadows we saw before us the mountain of Garo, anciently called Mons Massicus, famous for excellent wines; as well as the country there about, which was called Ager Falernus, so famed by Poets for its Vinum Falernum. Passing thus along we came at night to S. Agathas, and the next morneing betimes we entered into Campania Foelix, Campania Foelix so surnamed because of its admirable air, wonderful plenty of corn and wine, and pleasants prospects on all sides, which makes an Ancient call it, C●rtamen Cereris & Bacchi, the Strife of Ceres and Bacchus. It was this country which with its delights, broke Hannibal's army; which neither snow could cool, nor Alps stop, nor Romans Vanquish, saith Seneca. Indeed the pleasantness of this country made us a full mends for all the ill way we had had before: nature having set that scurvy way there a purpose, that men might like her Favourite Campania the better after it. I call this country Nature's Favourite, in imitation of Pliny, who calls it, Opus gaudentis naturae, that is, a country made by nature when she was in a good humour. It's a Heathen that speaks, and you must pardon him. We intended that day to have gone to Capua to dinner, Capua. but when we came thither, we did not find it at home. For this town now called Capua is two miles distant from the place where old Capua stood. Indeed the old Capua was a town of importance: for it was either the second, or third in the world; and stood in competition, as Carthage did, with Rome: Nay, it demanded of Rome to be used like a Sister, not like a Subject; and stood high upon it, that one of the annual Consuls should always reside here. But that Capua is vanished with its vanity; and this Capua hath no reason to be so proud, being famous for nothing but that action of many noble women here, See S. Aug. c. 2. de morib. Eccles. And S. Thom. 2.2. qu. 64. art. 5. who to avoid the insolences of the French soldiers (received into the town friendly) leapt into the river Vulturno to save their Virginity & honour, from their lewdness: an action rather wonderful, then warrantable. There is a Castle here of pretty strength, a good river, and an Archbishops Seat. From Capua we passed through Auersa, Auersa. a sweat Seat of a town, and once great, till Charles' the I, King of Naples, almost ruined it. It's a Bishop's Seat still. Here it was that Queen joanne of Naples strangled her husband Andreasso; and was herself not long after, served so too in the same place. Travelling some eight miles further we came to Naples before we could see it. Naples. This town was anciently called Parthenop● from one of the Sirens. It's now called Neapolis, Petr. a S. Roma aldo in his Cronolog. treasure. a new City; because the inhabitants of Cumae having, out of jealousy, ruined Parthenope, were sore vexed with a plague, till they had built it up again better than before. This happened about the year of the world 1449. As for Naples, it's now the head of a great kingdom so called. This kingdom belonged once to the Emperor: The Kingdom of Naples. but after that it had been overun by Saracens, and freed by Pope john the Tenth united with Alberic● Marquis of Toscany, it acknowledged the Church for its mistrésse, and the first man that was invested by the Pope (Innocent the Second, an. 1130) was Roger the Second, a Normand. Since that time, the French and the Spaniard have struggled hugely for this kingdom: sometimes the one plucking it to him, than the other. But now it's under the Spaniard, who holds it of the Pope, and for it payeth every year the purse of gold and the Jennet spoken of above. This kingdom is of great importance to Spain. It's importance to Spain. It makes his party too strong for France in Italy. It corresponds conveniently with Sicily, and Milan, and strengthens them both. In fine, it beareth up notably the interest of spain in the Court of Rome: and it squeizeth itself now and then, into huge sums, four millions of crowns, to send tribute into Spain's coffers. For this kingdom is a thousand five hundred miles in compass, four hundred and fifty wide. It hath in it twenty Archbishops Seats; It's Greatness. a hundred and twenty five Bishops Seats; a thousand five hundred Bourgs; two millions of souls: It's strength ten principalityes; twenty three Dutchies; thirty Marquisats; fifty four Counties; and about a Thousand Baronies, whereof four hundred are ancient. It can raise a hundred and fifty thousand foot, and a hundred thousand horse. It's ordinary squadron of galleys are but 20. As for the town itself of Naples, The town of Naples. if it be the third of Italy for greatness, it is the first for strength & neatness; and therefore deservedly surnamed, Lafoy Gentile, the Gentile. It hath Compania on one side of it, and the Mediterranean Sea on the other: so that its fed by Nature's best duggs, Sea and Land. Its air was always esteemed so pure, that the great men of Rome had either their Villas in Naples, or hard by. It's well built, well paved, well furnished with excellent provisions, well filled with nobility, and the nobility well mounted. The chief street is strada di Toledo, paved with freestone, and flanked with noble Palaces and houses. We entered into some of them, and others we saw which had not recovered their embonpoint since they had been sick of Mazaniellos disease. Their very looks showed us that their sickness had been Conuultion-Fitts. The chief Palaces are these: The stately Palace of the Viceroy, that of Gravina, Caraffa, Vrsino, Sulmone, Toledo, etc. Most of the houses of Naples are made flat at top, to walk upon: a most convenient thing to breath upon in the fresh Evenings, and easy to be imitated by other countries. I saw here also the several public places of Assemblies of the nobility, according to their several ranks. These places are like open walking places, railed about with high iron rails, and painted within. Then the Molo running a quarter of a mile into the Sea, 〈…〉 and affording great refreshment to the town's men, who walk here in the evenings in summer, where they are sure to cool their lungs with a sweet fresco. At the end of the Molo stands mounted the high Lantern to direct ships home safe in the night; and a fine fountain of fresh water. As for the Churches here they yield to none in Italy. The Churches of Naples The Domo is ancient, and therefore out of the mode a little: yet it hath a modern Chapel, which is very beautiful: and is one of the finest in Europe, both for brazen statues & rich painting. The Cupola was painted by the rare hand of Domenichino. In this Chapel, is the tomb of S. januarius Bishop of benevent, and now Patron of this town; whose blood being conserved in a little glass and concrete, melts and grows liquid when it's placed near to his Head, and even bubbles in the glass. Baronius. & Breviarium Rom. A French nobleman Count of la Val, was converted from Caluinisme to the Catholic Religion upon sight of this wonder. On the left hand of this Chapel without, lies buried Pope Innocent the IV, Petrus a S. Romualdo in his treasure Cronolog. ad an. 1604. who ordered first, that Cardinals should wear red hats. The Verses upon his Tomb● told me this. In the Sacristy are kept many precious gifts of Princes, and divers Relics of Saints enchased in gold and silver. The Annunciata. The Annunciata is both neat and devout: the Cupola and roof are well painted & guilt. The two Infants of Bethleem with their several wounds, one in the head, the other in the body, are shown here. The Hospital is joineing to it, and is of great reception. It maintains two thousand sick and decrepit in it; besides above 800 orphans & poor children. Near the great Hospital stands S. Peter's Church, and before it th● Altar, upon which (as the Inscription saith) S. Peter said mass at his first coming to Naples. The Theatins Church called S. Paul's, S. Paul●. is very neat: and if you saw it with its best hangings on, you would think it one of the neatest Churches in Italy. The roof is curiously painted and guilt. Here I saw the rich Tomb of Beato Caëtano a holy man of this Order; and the Tabernacle of the High Altar, both▪ very rich. In the Sacristy they ha●● as rich ornaments as in any Church of Italy. The jesuits Church here is the best they have in Italy, The jesuits Church. if it be not a little too wide for its length. In the Sacristy I saw the richest ornaments for the Altars, and the best silver candlesticks, that I have seen any where else. It's rich in painting, sculptures, & marble. The High Altar was not yet finished, but promiseth wonders. S. Maria No● The Franciscans Church, called S. Maria Nova, is very trim with its neat Chapels, and Tombs, and guilt roof. Here I saw the Tomb of Lotrech, who commanded so long the French forces in this kingdom. His virtue in military affairs, was so great, that his very enemies, admireing his worth, have caused his body to be translated out of an obscure place, where it lay before, into this Church, and Tomb. I wonder they did not cause those words of Virgil to be put upon it. Si Pergamon dextr● defendi possent, etiam hâc defensa fuissent. The Dominicans Church. The Church of the Dominicans is very handsome too, if you do not surprise it, and take it before it be dressed. I saw it once in its best attire, hung with a rare suit of embroidered hangings, which set it out with great advantage. I saw also here the Crucifix, which spoke to S. Thomas of Aquin, the Doctor of this Order and Country, and said: Benè de me scripsisti Thoma. In the Sacristy of this Church are kept in several coffins (some covered with white, some with black velvet) the bodies of several great persons, depositated here till their Tombs should be made: as of Alphonso the first, King of Naples and Arragon: of Queen joanne the unfortunate: that of an Emperor of Constantinople: that of Durazzo: that of the Marquis of Vasti: with divers others. The Church of the Olivetan Fathers is stately: The Olivetan here lies buried Alexander ab Alexandro a great antiquary, whose ingenious book Genialium dierum, gives light to many books by the unshelling of a world of ancient customs of the Romans. In this Church also is the Tomb of brave Marchese di Piscara, surnamed the Thunderbolt of war. The words upon this Tomb are so ingenious, that (though I profess not to set down many Epitaphs in this my voyage) I cannot but strive to carry them into other counties. They are these. Quis iacet hoc gelido sub marmore? Maximus ille Piscator, belli gloria, pacis hon●s. Nunquid & hic pisces cepit? Non, Ergo quid? Vrbes, Magnanimos Reges, oppida, regna, deuces. Dic quibus haec cepit Piscator retibus? Alto Consilio, intrepido cord, alacrique manu. Qui tantum rapuere ducem? Duo Numina, Mars, Mors. Vt raperent quidnam compulit? Jnuidia. Nil nocuere ipsi; vivit nam Fama superstes, Quae Martem & Mortem vincit, & Inuidiam. The Church of S. john Carbonare is considerable for itself, but much more for the stately Tomb in it, of King Robert. In the Church of the Nunnery which stands at the foot of the hill as you go up to the Carthusians; I saw a most curious Tabernacle upon the Altar, of precious polished stones. It's one of the richest I have seen any where, but that of Florence described above, Then we mounted up that windeing hill, The stately Monastery of the Carthusians. to the Carthusians Church and Monastery called S. Martin's. It's the most sumptuous thing in all Europe for a Monastery, whether you regard its situation, or its fabric. It's situated upon a high hill, lunder the wing of the Castle S. Elmo; to put Castles in mind, that they ought to defend and protect Religion. The whole quandrangle, or cloister, of this Monastery, is of pure polished white marble, paved with marble squars, and adorned round with a baluster, and white marble pillars. Then entering into an open gallery we had as fine a prospect as Europe can afford, not excepting that of Greenwich, thought by Barclay, Barclay. Icon Animorum. the best prospect in Europe. For here I saw all Naples under me, with the perfect sight of the two other Castles, with the haven, the Molo, the Arsenal, the Ships, the country round about Naples, Mount Veswius, Pausilipus, the Ships at Sea, the Promontoryes of Misenum and Minerva, the I'll of Caprea, with a world of other delightful sights. Then I was led into the apartment of the Padre Visitatore, where I saw most neat rooms, and some good pictures. Then going to the Church I found it to exceed the cloister, which before I thought to have exceeded all other things. It's all of marble, guilding, and painting. The pavement is all of curious red and white marble squars, as is also the Sacristy. The Chapels and pictures match the roof, and the pillars, with their particular graces. The Sacristy is absolutely the richest I ever saw. The great cupboards are of such a rare mosaic woodworke inlaid into pictures, that it disputes hard with the Choir of the Dominicans in Bologna. Here they showed me a great Crucifix of silver, which had been fifteen years in making. The Remonstrance to expose the B. Sacrament in, is made like a sun, whose beams are mingled with silver and coral. The great Candlesticks of massive silver, and the great flower pots, are curiously wrought. Then I went to see the three Castles; That of S. Elmo, Castle S. Elmo. which is hard by the Carthusians, was built by Charles the V. It stands well upon its own guard by reason of its high situation: but I doubt whether it can offend any enemy, except Naples itself which is under it. The Castle Vovo, castle Vovo. was built by William the third of Normandy, upon a rock in the Sea; and from its oval form, it's called castle Vovo. There is a digue leading unto it from the Land. The Castle Nuovo, castle Novo. was built by Charles of Anjou, designed King of Naples. It stands near the Molo, and levelly with the town and Sea, as if it could defend and offend both. These there Castles are guarded by natural Spaniards; and well furnished with great Cannons, by whose language (which is ultima Ratio R●gum, King's last arguments) the Neapolitans are either catechised into duty, or threatened into obedience. Indeed such a people and town, are not easily bridled: such a wanton Courser as Naples, is not to be ridden with snaffles, it hath often plunged under the King of Spain, but could never fling him quite out of the saddle, merce a gli tre Castelli. The Markets. Then I went to see the markets here, and found them most admirable, especially those of fruit, which Campania sends hither: and where but the taxes taken off, or reasonably moderated, Naples would be the cheapest and richest place in the world. But the King's officers if they suck in Milan, and Fleece in Sicily, they Flea in Naples: which usage drove the people some years past, into such a desperate humour, an. 1647 that they took up arms under the command of Mazaniello: his true name was Thomas Angelus Maia, a poor fisherman without stokings or shoes, who for ten days together, swaggered here so powerfully in the head of two hundred thousand mutinous people, that when he commanded them to burn a house, they did it: when he commanded them to cast into the fire all the goods, papers, plate, beds, hangings &c. of the Gabelliers, they did it without reserueing the least precious piece to themselves: when he commanded them to cry out: Down with the Gabells, they did it: when he put his finger to his mouth, they were all silent again; as if this poor fisherman had been the soul that animated that great body of people. It was prodigious indeed that such a poor young man (not past 23) in waistcoat and drawers, and his fisher's cap on, should find such obedience, from such rich and witty citizens. But as tumultuous people make arms of every thing their fury meets with, so they make Captains of every man that will but head them; and as the Proverb goes, In seditione vel Androclides belli ducem agit. They showed me the house of this fisherman: but the other houses showed me his fury. Thousands have not yet recovered those ten day's tumults. Thus we see, that when men are ripe for rebellion, Cromwell's and Mazaniells are cried up for great men: or rather when God hath a mind to punish, flies and gnats are powerful things even against Princes. The Academies of wits. Here are two Academies of w●ts the one called the Ardenti, to show their ardour in studyeing: the other the Otiosi, wisely instituted as an allay to the others heat. Learned men. Some of the famous men for learning of this town were, old Statius, rare Sannazarius, Alexander ab Alexandro, and john Baptist Marini: three excellent Poets, and one Antiquary. Naples hath furnished the Church with 18 Popes. Having thus seen the town itself of Naples, I was most willing to see the wonders of nature which are near unto it. Horseing therefore betimes one morneing, we went with a guide to see Veswius the burning mountain, The Mountain Veswius. some seven miles distant from Naples. Our honest guide had studied the history of this hill, and could tell, how often it had broken forth into flames since the beginning of the world, that is, twenty times. Xiphilinus the Epitomist of Dio, relates at length one that happened under the Emperor Titus. But the last which happened in the year 1631, he remembered very well, and related it to me as we went along, with a sad preface, of Infandum Peregrine iubes renovare dolorem, because he could also say; Et quorum pars magna fui, having been an Actor in that disorder. For he was sonn to a rich husbandman here, and with much a do, Aeneas like, he had rescued his old Father from the ashes of Veswius, which overwhelmed and buried whole Villages. Here said he, pointing to the place, stood a great vineyard one of the best of the Country; but now three fathom deep in ashes. Here stood a Village full of rich husbandmen and goodly houses; but now ruined by the stones shot at it from Veswius. Here stood once a pleasant Villa beautified with curious walks, orange trees, fountains, and arbours, but I am cinis est ubi Villa fuit. In a word, above two thousand people were burnt, lamed, or stifled in this eruption. Then he showed me the vast stones which overchargeing the stomach of Veswius, he had vomited up, with such a boaking, that Naples thought the day of judgement had been at hand. Then he showed me a channel, where a River of fiery green matter mingled with brimstone, alum, iron water, and saltpetre, had run from that spewing hill. The manner of this breaking out was thus. The hill began first to smoke more vehemently than before. Then it flamed and cast out a cloud of ashes, which, had the wind stood toward the City, had covered all Naples, and buried it in those ashes. Then it began to roar as if Madam Nature herself had been in labour. Thunder was but pistolcrack to this noise: and the mouth of a Cannon a full mile wide, must needs give a great report. It bellowed and thundered again: Naples trembled: the ground swollen: The Sea itself shivered for fear; when the hill tearing its entrails with huge violence, was brought to bed of a world of vast stones, and a fludd of Sulphurous matter which ran from the top of the mountain into the Sea for the space of three miles. All this he told me, and this he showed me afterward, in a public inscription upon a fair marble stone erected hard by. And all this made me but the more desirous of seeing this mountain. Wherefore spurring on, we came soon after, to the foot of the hill; where leaving our horses, we began to crawl up that step hill for a good mile together, to the midlegg in ashes. At last, with much a do, we got to the top of the hill; and peeping fearfully (remembering Plinyes accident) into the great hellow from the brinck of it, found it to be like a Vast Kettle, See Bakers Cronicle in Henric. ● far greater than those Hell Kettles near Deslington in the Bishopric of Durham, made by earthquakes. For the orifice of this Kettle is a mile or two wide, and very nigh as deep. In the bottom of it is a new little hill rising out of the hollow of the old, and fumeing perpetually with a thick smoke, as if it also would play tricks too in its turn. Having gazed a while at this Chimney of Hell (for Tertullian calls Aetna and Veswius, Hell's Chimneys Fumariola inferni) we came faster down than we went up. He that is not content with this my short description of the burning of this Hill, let him read julius Caesar Recupitus, who hath made a little book alone of it, called, De Vesuniano incendio Nuntius. Having recovered our horses again, we came back to Naples; and the next morning takeing a new guide, we went to see the wonders of Nature about Baiae and Puzzu●lo. Our journey to Puzzuolo. Horseing then again betimes in the morneing, we passed by the Castle Vovo, and soon after to Margelino, to see the Tomb of Sannazarîus the Poet, who lies buried in the Church of Santa Maria del Parto, which was once Sannazarius his own house, Sannazarius his tomb. which dying he left to be made a Church of, under that title: so that in his Testament he wrote the Virgins partu, as well as in his book: and he might as well have written upon the Frontispiece of this Church, as upon the Frontispiece of his Book, opera Sannazarij de Virginis par●u. His Tomb here is adorned with marble figures and with this ingenious Epitaph made of him by Cardinal Bembo. Da sacro cineri flores. Hic ille Maroni Sincerus Musâ proximus, ut tumulo. His name was jacobus Sannazarius, but he changed his name for that of Sincerus, at the request of Pontanus, who also changed his name too, and caused himself to be called jovianus, as jovius in Elogiis virorum Doctorum saith. Not far of this place, nor far from the entrance of the Grotte of Pausilipus, in the Gardens of S. Severino, stands Virgil's tomb, Virgil's tomb. covered almost over with Laurel, or Ba●-trees: as if that Poet's Laurel were grown into a Shadybower, to make a whole tomb of Laurel for the Prince of Poets. From thence we returned again into our way, and presently came to the entrance of the Grotte of Pausilipus. this Mountain lying at the very back of Naples, and rendering the passage to Naples extremely inconvenient for carriages, it was thought fit to cut a cart way under ground, quite through the mountain: some say it was Lucullus, that caused it to be thus boared: others say, it was Cocceius Nerua. Certain it is, that it is ancient, seeing Seneca makes mention of it. The Grotte of Pausilipo. Entering into the Grotte of Paulisipus, we found it to be about forty foot high, and broad enough for two carts laden to meet with ease. They say here, that it is a full mile long; but I thought it scarce so much. We rid some forty paces by the light of the wide entrance; but that Vanishing, we were left in the dark a good while, till we came to the halfway, where there hangs a burning Lamp before the picture of our Saviour in the B. Virgin's arms. The light of this Lamp was very grateful unto us; and I am confident, a Puritan himself, were he here, would be glad to see this Lamp and Picture, and love them better for it ever after. All the way of this Grotta is very even and Level, but hugely dusty; as a room must be, that hath not been swept these sixteen hundred years. The people of the country meeting here in the dark, know how to avoid one another, by going from Naples on the right hand; and returning on the left; that is, by keeping on the moutain side going, and returning on the Sea side: and this they express by cryeing out often; A la Montagna, or, a lafoy Marina; To the mountain side, or to the Sea side, to give notice whether they come, or go. Our guide understood the word, and he giving it unto me, and I to my next man, it ran through our whole Brigade, which consisted of a dozen horsemen in all. Almost all the way we rid in it, we shut our eyes, having little use of them; and our mouths and noses too, for fear of being choked with the dust: so that our exterior senses being thus shut up, our interior begun to work more freely, and to think of this odd place. My thoughts, coming newly from Sannazarius and Virgil's tombs, fell presently upon Poetry (for all this country is a Poetical country) and I began to think whether this were not Polyphemus his den, because Homer makes it to have been near the Seaside, as this is; and capable of holding great herds of sheep as this also is. Sometimes I thought that it might have been here, that jupiter was hidden from his devouring Father Saturn, who came into Italy for certain; as also because Sophocles makes mention of jupiter Pausilipus. But at last I concluded that this was the place where the merry Gods and Goddesses, after their jovial suppers, played at hide and seek, without being hoodwinked. By this time we began to see the other end of the Grotte a far off, by a little light which grew greater and greater till at last we came to the issue of it. Being got out of this Cymmeran road, we began to open our eyes again to see if we could find one an other; and our mouths too to discourse upon this exotic place. Thus we rid discourseing upon this wonder, till we came to the Grotta del Cane a new wonder. Grotta deal Cane. Arriveing there we presently had a dog ready (though for the most part the dogs here run whining away when they see a troop of strangers arrive) and saw the experiment of that famous Grotta, which being but three yards within the side of the hill, may be seen without entering into it. The experiment is this. A man takes a dog alive, and holding down his head with a wooden fork to the ground, the dog begins first to cry, and then to turn up the white of the eyes, as if he would die. Then letting him hold up his head again, he recovers. And having thus, twice, or thrice, showed us the experience of this infectious place, he puts down the dog's head again, and holds it down so long, till the dog seems to be dead indeed. Then takeing him by the stiff leg, and running with him to the Lake Agnano, some forty paces off, the throws him into the shallow water of this Lake, and presently he begins to recover, and to wade out. They would make us believe, that as it is the nature of this Grotta to kill: so it is the nature of this Lake to revive dead things again. But if the dog were dead indeed, all the water of Agnano, though it were Aqua Vitae, would not recover him: he is only astonished with the infectious vapour which breatheth out of this Sulphurous ground below. The pestilent nature of this Grotte was showed us plainly by a lighted torch, which as long as it was held high from the ground, burnt clearly: but as it was approached by little & little, near to the ground, it grew dimmer and dimmer, till at last it burned blue, and being held close to the ground, it went quite out. The stones of S. Gennaro. Then we were shown hard by, the stones of S. Gennaro, which by a natural sulphurous vapour yssueing strongly from low causes, put a man presently into a sweat, and are excellent remedies for the Neapolitan disease, called by some authors, Campanus Morbus: Nature, an indulgent mother, thinking herself bound to afford a remedy to the discorders which she herself hath inclined the Neapolitans unto. Then fetching about the hills by a norrow unfrequented way, we came to the Convent of Capucins standing there where S. januarius was beheaded. The Capucins. In a little Chapel on the right hand as you enter into the Church, they showed us the stone upon which he was beheaded; the blood is still upon it. From hence we descended down into the Sulphatara, The Sulphatara. where the burning Sulphur smokes out perpetually from under ground. This Sulphatara is a kind of pit environed on all sides with banks, and it is about 1500 foot long and 1000 broad. We rid down into it on horseback, and it sounded hollow under our horses feet, as if we had been riding over a wooden bridge. There are divers spiracula, or Vents round about it, out of which the thick smoke presseth furiously, as out of a furnace; and makes Poets and Potters find matter enough; those for their Fables calling it, Forum Vulcani: These for their Medicinal pots, which they make of this brinstony earth. Near to Sulphatara stands a round pool of black thick water, which always boileth; and what soever you throw into it, it comes out boiled indeed, but not entire; something or other of it being always diminished, saith Leandro Alberti. One putting in four eggs in a long ladle, pulled out but three again: I wonder Poets feigned not this Lake, to be that part of hell allotted to punish usurers, seeing it takes use for every thing that's put into it. Descending from Sulphatara to Puzzolo, we wondered to see the very high way smoke under our horses feet, when yet we found not them so fiery under us: but I found the smoke to come out of little chinks of the dried ground: which showed us that the whole country was on fire under us. Before we came to the town, we saw the remnants of a fair Amphitheatre, and Cicero's Academy. Immediately after this we came to Puzzuolo, Puzzuolo. so called, either from the multitude of springs about it; or else a putore, from the smell which this brinstony country affords. The town is but little, yet anciently a Bishops Seat. taking boat here presently, we passed over the creek of the Sea to Baiae, which is three miles from hence; and as we rowed along, I admired the wild design of Caligula who built a bridge from Puzzuolo to Baiae: some of the Arches yet standing on both sides, show us that his folly was real: and I believe Suetonius meant this work, when he taxeth the insanas substructiones, the mad buildings of this Emperor. That which contributed much to the bold attempt; was the nature of the sand of this country, which made into mortar and let down into the water, Pliny, and Vitrunius grows hard and solid, even to petrify there at last. Puteolanus puluis, si aquam attigit, Baiae. saxum est. Reaching the other side of the bay, and leaving our boat to attend us, we rambled for an hour and a half among the Antiquityes of this ruined Paradise of Baiae: for you know, Nullus in orbe locus Baiis praeluxit amaenis. Mercato di Sabato. First we were led to the Mercato di Sabato, looking still like a street with ruins of houses on both sides. Thence we went to the Elysian Fields, The Elysian Fields. which are much beholding to Poets for their fame: otherwise they are but a very common plot of ground without any gracefulness at all, except only that if Baiae were a town still, a man might make a fine Bowling ground here. But Poets who have power and Licence to ●rect Ithacum into a kingdom, have out-poëted it here, by erecting this little spot of ground into a Paradise. Thence we came presently to the Piscina Mirabili, Piscina Mirabili. a vast building under ground, borne up by forty or fifty great squar pillars, long 150 paces, 40 wide, & 30 high. We descened into it by many steps, & it's so well walled with stone and lime on all sides, that water cannot sink through. and all this was only to keep fresh water in, either for the Roman Galleys that used to lie hereabouts in these harbours; or else for the Romans gusto; who having their curious Villas here abouts, had no mind to drink of the springs of this bituminous country. At the top of this Piscina Mirabili, I espied some spouts of stone yet remaining, by which they used to let the water from above into this Vast Reseruer. Returning again, we were shown the Promontory of Misenum a far off; and the Mare Mortuum hard by. Promont: Miseni. Mare mortuum. Cento Camerelle. Then we went into the Cento Camerelle, so called from a hundred little rooms that were built together like chambers within one an other, to keep slaves in, who served the Galleys. Going again towards our boat, we were shown the place where Agrippina should have been drowned by a false bottomed boat: but that failing, her son Nero caused her to be stabed here. Indeed breasts that had turned their blood into milk to give suck to such a monster, could expect nothing else but to be emptied of all their blood; but she was designed to this ill usage long before. For being foretold, when she was with child of Nero, that she had in her womb a son who should be Emperor, but withal, who should kill her, she cried out: Occidat modò imperet: Let him kill me, so he be but Emperor; and she had her wish. It's said also that this Parricide (for, Nero nunquam sine publici paricidii praefatione nominandus est, saith Valerius Maximus) after his mother was killed, would needs have her ripped up, that he might see where he had lodged nine months together: and I believe that nothing hastened more the conspiracy of the Romans against him, than rhat they could now no longer endure him, who could not endure his own mother. Hard by the Shore stands yet the Tomb of that unfortunate Princess. Agrippina's Tomb Then taking boat again we rowed by the ruins of Marius, and Caesar's Villas, and divers others scraps of antiquity, and all along in the water (in a clear day) you may see the foundations of Baiae, and some Arches, and the pavement of the very streets; all now in the Sea. Omnia fert aetas; and Tim●, which in all other places, is called Edax rerum, may here be called Bibax rerum, having sipped up here a whole town. Rowing on still by the Shore, we came to the foot of Nero's Palace near to the ruins of which, stands mounted a strong Castle, built a la moderna, upon a high Hill. Leaving here our boat again, we were wished to put our hands into the sand of the very sea, which we found to burn under the cold water. Then we went hard by to Cicero's baths, Cicero's baths. a great squar place, where anciently were written over head in old letters, the names of the diseases which these waters cured: which letters some Physicians caused to be defaced, pretending that they where superstitious characters; when indeed they where unwilling men should be cured by anything, but the strange characters in their recipes. Near these foresaid Baths, are those of Tritola, The Baths of Tritola. where we were led into the long Grotte, and presently put into a sweat by a stifling heat which met us violently in that long entry. I followed my guide, and finding the esteem to be choking, I stooped down low behind the guide, to let him break the hot air before me. As I thus stooped, I found out by experience, what others find by hearsay, that the nearer the ground a man stoops here, the cooler he finds himself. Thus, Antëus like, fetching now and then succour from my mother earth, I found humility to be a safe remedy. In the middle of this long narrow Entry there's a place, for those that stand in need of sweeting, to stand on, straddling wide, and so sweat abundantly. They told me that at the end of this Grotta, there are baths of sovereign Virtue; but I being well without them, had no mind to be choked in seeking out health. Returning from hence we had a huge walk of it to the Lacus Avernus, Lacus Avernus. made by the River Acheron, idest, sine gaudio: a fit name for the river of Hell. This Lake is famous for its stinking air, which was observed to kill birds as they flew over here. On the further side of it, was the Temple of Apollo. Leaving this Lake on our right hand, we made towards the Grotte of Sibylla Cumaea, The Grotte of Sibylla Cumaea. so called from the City Cumae, which stood not far off▪ this long Grotta was once a subterranean passage to the City of Cumae, (as that of Pausilipus is yet to Naples) and the Sibylles Grotte is that little dark Entry which styxes out of the long Grotta. This leads you to the Chamber of the said Sibylle and her baths. It's a fine retireing place for a chaste maid, that fears as well to see, as to be seen: Tertull. Tam timet Videre, quam videri and such the Sibyls were; who for their Virginyties sake, had the gift of Prophecy given them, saith S. Jerome. This Sibylla Cumaea prophesied very particularly of our Saviour's birth, and for that reason julian the Apostata burned her prophecies, saith Ammianus Marcellinus, a Heathen Historian of those times. As we returned again from hence to our boat, we gazed upon a great Mountain called Monte Nuovo, Monte Nuovo. because it was cast up in one night (on Michelmasse night anno 1536) by an earthquake, which the Philosophers call Brasmarichus, that is, when the earth is thrown up, and mountains are form. Some hold this mountain to be three miles high but I think it enough to give it a full mile. It covered (at its rising up) a great part of the old Lacus Lucrinus which was quite sucked up by this great sop. Then takeing our boat again we returned to Puzzuolo, and at night to Naples; where we stayed but one day more, as well to rest our horses, as to see the silk shops, where they make curious silk waistcoats, stoking, scarves etc. The History of Naples. He that desires to know the History of Naples, let him read the book called, Il Compëndio dell' Historia di Napoli, di Collenuccio. Having thus seen Naples, we returned again towards Rome the same way we came, without any danger of Banditi, but not with out some trouble caused us by the officers of the Gabella at Fundi, Take heed of the Gabellers of Fundi. who met us a quarter of a mile out of the town, and stopped us upon the road to search us, and see whether we had any thing liable to the Gabella; or more money of the country than the Law allows men to carry out. For my part, I had taken care of all this a forehand, and had nothing liable to the greatest rigour. But some of our company that did not believe the rigour to be so great, found it. For to some they pulled of their boots, searched their pockets, breeches, doublets; nay, even their saddles, horses tails, and the very horses feet. From one gentleman they took four pistols of gold, because he carried so much more than was allowed: though with much ado we got the gentleman his money again; I have know divers that have not escaped so well, having been stripped in the open fields even to their shirts etc. their watches taken from them, though they had brought them with them to Naples, and not bought them there. This is to learn my traveller to be inquisitive in all his journeys, of the Laws of the country where he traveleth, especially such obvious ones as concern public passages, bridges, ferryes, bearing of arms, and the like; the knowledge of which customs will make t'him avoid many inconveniences, which I have known others fall into. In an other voyage to Naples, in our return to Rome we made little excursions, to take in some places about Rome, which we had not seen before, as Albano, castle Gandulfo, Frescati, and Tivoli, which lay almost in our way. Rising therefore betimes at Veletri, we crossed over the hills, and came to Albano, Albano. (anciently called Longa Alba) and now one of the seven Bishops Seats, about Rome which are given to the Eldest Bishop Cardinals, that they may be at hand always, and ready to assist the Pope in his affairs of importance. The others are Porto, Ostia, Frescati, Tivoli, Preneste, Veletri. In Albano, I saw nothing of moment, but an old Church, and some old houses: yet seeing it stands in so good an air, I wonder the great men of Rome have not built houses here, where the wine is so exquisitely good. Indeed this wine makes this town be much taken notice of by all strangers, as being the best wine that's constantly drunk in Rome. Hard by Albano stands castle Gandulfo, castle Gandulfo. the Pope's country house in summer. It stands very pleasantly having on one side of it a Lake and woods, and on the other the Campania of Rome and the City itself in view. I stepped into this castle, but found nothing but bare walls, it being then unfurnished. From hence We went to Frescati called anciently Tusculum. Frescati. This is absolutely one of the sweetest places in Europe. The town is but little; but round about it, especially on the hill side, there are so many curious Villas, Palaces, Gardens, Fountains, Shady walks, and Summer delights, that I wonder not if Princes, Cardinals, and other great persons retire hither in summer. In a word, here Cato was borne, here Lucullus delighted himself, and Cicero studied and wrote his Tusculans Questions. The first place we went to see here, was the Villa Aldobrandina. The Villa Aldobrandina. Beluedere This Villa is also called, the Beluedere of Frescati, because it stands so pleasantly; having the Campania of Rome, and Rome itself in sight on one side; and on the other, the hill side all covered with Laurel trees, curious fountains, cascatas, and other delightsome water works, which afford here a cool season even in the months of july and August. The variety of these water works are so many and so curious, that I cannot but describe them. The Cascata. First then, the rare Cascata presents itself: and it's made thus. At the turning of a vast Cock, the water (which is brought through a great Hill, from a source five miles off) spouts out of the top of two high windeing pillars of stone, which stand mounted upon the head of a high pair of open stairs, and then falling down upon the same pillars again, it follows the winding bent of them cut into channels and little gutters, and so warbles about these pillars visibly till it arrive at the foot of them. There finding issue, it falls upon the foresaid stairs, and covers them all with a thin glideing stream, which mikes an open staircase of water. Besides, this water sets a number of little fountaeins on work, which stand on either side of these stairs, and descends by degrees with them: so that in a moment the whole hill side is spouting out water, and filling the air with a sweet murmur. 2. Then the Gardener turneing an other cock above, gives at once, such store of wind and water to the great Girandola below the stairs in the Grotte of Atlas, The Girandola. that it imitateth perfectly Thunder, Hale, rain and Mist. 3. By this time, the great Statue of the Centaur with a hunter's horn at his mouth, The Centaur. windeth it duly, and in perfect measure. Pan. 4. Pan also plays on his mouth-organ tuneably The Lion and the Leopard. 5. Whilst the Lion and the Leopard fighting together spit angrily in one another's faces, though all pass in cold blood, because in cold water. 6. These waters also afford innumerable & inavoidable wetting places; as the false stepped in the stairs: the wetting place behind Pan: the other wetting place behind the Centaur; and the little underground spouts on all sides. The Hall of Apollo. 7. Then the Hall of Apollo is opened, were he sitting upon Mount Parnassus, and the nine Muses under him in a circle, with several wind instruments in their hands, strike up all together melodiously; whilst an untouched organ underneath the hill, plays à soft ground to the Muse's instruments. 8. During this melody, a little round hole in the midst of the room bloweth out from below such a cool and stiff wind, that it bears up a little hollow ball of copper, a yard from the ground. Over the door is this distich. Huc ego migravi Musis comitatus Apollo. Hic Delphi, hîc Helicon, hîc mihi Delos erit. Then being led to see this hydraulick organ, The water Organ. and to view what fingers art had lent unto water; I found the Organ to be made thus. First, the Pipes are like other organ pipes of lead, and set in a close frame as the manner is, with stops and touches to them. Close to these stops the force of water turns a we'll, made like a great drum, and as long as the organ. This wheel hath in it, here and there, divers pieces of brass, about the thickness of a half crown piece, and just as broad as the stops of the organ. These brass pieces sticking out just so far, as to reach the stops, in their turning about, and to press them down as the organists fingers do, and being placed here, and there, in that musical distance, as to strike their note in tune as they turn about leisurely, they all together compose a perfect and sweet harmony; the wind pipe of this room (mentioned even now) serveth sufficiently for bellows to his organ, as well as to the wind instruments of the Muse●: & all is caused by force of water. But as we were taken with these water works, which make this organ play in tune, A terrible wetting place. we were suddenly overtaken with another water work, which playing terribly upon us put us quite out of tune: so seldom doth wind come without water. Having seen this garden and Palace, we went to the Villa of Prince Ludovisio which is hard by. Villa Ludovisia. The house is but little, but the garden is both large and adorned with store of water-works: so that if the gardener befriend you not, you cannot escape without being sound we●. One thing I observed in this Palace here, that the curtains of the beds are so wrought with little holes by needle work, that the air may enter by them, but not the gnatts. From hence we went to the Villa of Prince Burghese called Montedragone, Montedragone. from the Dragon in his arms. It stands a mile and a half from the Beluedere, and the way to it is through curious walks of laurel trees. The house is stately, and capable of lodging a King with his whole court. The Chambers are neat and fit for both seasons, winter and Summer. I saw divers good pictures in them. The last Supper is of Alberto Dureos' hand, and hugely esteemed. The story of Polyphemus is of the hand of Lanfranco. But that which pleased me best, was the hall below, full of the true pictures of famous men, both for learning and arms. It's an excellent school where a man may learn much true skill in physiognomy, and see how Worthies looked. This Hall lets you out into the little neat garden where you find water works, wetting sports, and a pretty girandola. Having thus seen Frescati, we went to Tivoli Tivoli. some fifteen miles off. This is an ancient town, standing upon a hill some fifteen miles distant from Rome, and in sight of it. It was anciently called Tybur, Old Tybur and held by the Romans for a delicious place. We saw here the old Temple and the house of Sibylla Tyburtina. Then we saw the Cascata, The Cascata. much admired here by those that never were in Switzerland, or at Terni. This here is made by the River Anio, which falls suddenly down a stony rock, and foams for anger to see its bed grown too short for it. Indeed it makes such a murmuring complaint against nature to the stones below, that it almost deafs, like the Catadoups of Nilus, all its neighbours. Villa d'Esté. Thence we went to the Villa of Cardinal D'Esté. It stands high and overlooks the Campania of Rome. But the gardens of this Villa, is that which is here most looked after. They lie upon the side of a hill, and are placed in four, rows of gardens, with four degrees in in the descent, all furnished with Cascatas, Grottas, and other admirable water-works▪ the water is let in hi●her from the River Anio, which runs behind this Hill. For they have tappt the very Hill, and bored the rock quite through to the river; so that the gardener here by turning a great cook, can let in as much water as fills the Fountains, the Cascatas, the Grottas, the G●randola, and the other rare water-works. Hence is made the great Fountain of Leda; the stairs of water; the long walk of two hundred paces, set all along with little stone fountains and bassins', purling in your ears, and casting out little jets of water as you walk along them. And here you shall see as rare things for sight and deligth, as the world can afford in this kind. Here a perfect representation of old Rome in a perspective: where you see the Capitol, the Pantheon, the chief triumphal Arches, the Circos, theatres, Obelisques, Mausoleas, & even Tiber itself: here curious groves of trees making a green spring in the midst of winter: here cool grottas and fountains, making a cold winter in the midst of Summer: Here false birds chirping upon true trees, every one according to his true nature; and all of them chattering at once at the sight of a false owl appearing and howling in a tree. Here curious Grottas, especially the Grotte of Nature, adorned with Nymphs, shells, statues, and unavoidable wetting places, and organs playing without any man touching them: there a fearful Girandola of the Dragons, thundering as if they would set heaven on fire with cold water, and pelt jupiter from thence with hails stones. But I wrong these things which are rather to be seen, then described: and my traveller will wrong himself much, if he stay not here three or four days, to view munitament these wonders of art. Having seen these famous places, we returned to Rome again; where we saw its chief rarities over, and over again: for Romam jwat usque videre & all men that have seen Rome only once desire to see it again: Hence the Romans takeing leave of a stranger departing from Rome, after his first Voyage, say jestingly to him, a Rivederci; that is, Farewell till I see you again; knowing that every man who hath seen Rome but once, will desire to return again. For my part, I confess I was of this sentiment in my first journey; but now having seen it five several times, I took a long leave of it, and began to think of returning homeward by the way of Loreto, and Venice. And that we might be sure to be at Venice at the great solemnity of the Ascension, we left Rome the first week after Easter. We set out of Rome by the Porta del Populo, all along the via Flaminia, Via Flaminia. which rearched as far almost on this side of Rome, as the Via Appia did on the other; that is from Rome to Rimini. It's called Flaminia, because the Consul Flaminius made it by his soldiers in time of peace, lest they should grow idle, and have their strength to seek when the war should break out. The rest of the way from Rimini to Bologna, was paved by Aemilius Lepidus the Colleague of Flaminius, and from him called Via Aemilia. This Via Flaminia led us first to Ponte Molo (Pons Miluius) a good mile distant from the Gates of Rome, Ponte Molo. where Constantin the Great overcame Maxentius the Tyrant, and drove him and his men, into the river. Here it was, I saw Tiber first; Tiber. and I wondered to find it such a small river, which Poets with their hyperbolical ink had made swell into a river of the first rate. Following on the way, we passed by castle Nuovo, Civita Castellana, Vtricol●, & so to Narni: Narni. so called from the river Nar. It was anciently called Nequinum (wicked town) because of the inhabitants, who being pressed with hunger in a Siege resolved to kill one another rather than fall alive into the hands of their enemies. They began with their children, sisters, mothers, wives; and at last fell upon one another; leaving the enemies nothing to triumph over but bare walls and ashes. This town is an ancient Bishop's Seat, and S. Iwenalis' (whose body lieth in a neat low Chapel in the Domo) was the first Bishop of it. A little out of the town are seen high Arches belonging anciently to an Aqueduct. From hence we went to Terni a Bishops Seat too. Terni. It was called anciently Interamna, because of a world of little brooks here. This town stands in a most pleasant soil, and is famous for being the birth place of Cornelius Tacitus the great Historian. Arriveing here betimes we went four miles off to see the fomous Cascata, in the Mountains, which far excels that of Tivoli. From Terni we went to Spoleto. Spoleto. This is a neat town, which giveth denomination to the Duchy of Spoleto. Anciently the country hereabout was called Vmbria, but in aftertimes it was called, the Duchy of Spoleto, upon this occasion. The Emperor justin having called Narses (the Great General) out of Italy, he sent Longinus with the power and title of Exarch, in his place. This Longinus settled himself in Ravenna, and governed the rest of Italy by his Captains and Officers called Deuces, or Dukes. Hence Rome lost her Consuls, Narses and Basilius being the two last Consuls) and was governed by a Duke too, as well as Spoleto. This town hath been famous anciently for holding out against Hannibal, even then, when he had newly overcomne the Romans at the Lake Thrasimene hear Perugia; in which Siege of Spoleto, happened that famous prodigy (which I may call in a manner, a Metaphysical transmutation, rather than a metamorphosis) mentioned by Leandro Alberti, who coats Livy for it; of a man in Spoleto changed into a woman in the time of the Siege. Surely it was some notable Coward whom Nature disavowing, degraded him of his breeches. Hence I remember that Plato saith, abiectori armorum maximè conveniret, ut in mulierem ex Viro translatus, sic puniatur: Plato l. 12 de Legib. a man that casts away his arms in a battle, aught to the punished, by being changed from a man into a woman. This town of Spoleto gives the name to the pleasant Valley of Spoleto, The Valley of Spoleto. which lies near it. It's above thirty miles in compass, surrounded on all sides with Hills, and those Hills, are clad with many fine towns: people willingly dwelling here were the air and the earth, our chiefest nurses, are so purely good. From Spoleto we went to Foligni (Fulignum in Latin) famous for Confectioners. Foligni. Not far from hence stands Assisium famous for S. Francis, Assisium. Founder of the Franciscan Order; The Convent here is stately, and much visited by devout Pilgrims: And Montefalco famous for the miraculous Heart of B. Clara. Montefalco. From Poligni, climbeing up the Apennins, we came to Tolentino, Tolentino. famous for the Tomb and Reliks' of S. Nicolas Tolentinas▪ of this town was Philelphus a learned and noble Knight, who desirous of possessing the Greek Tongue in perfection, was not only content to go into Greece in person, and there visit the ruins of Athens, and the tombs of the ancient Philosophers; but brought thence with him a Grecian Lady, whom he had married at Constantinople, by whose daily conversation he might learn the pure accent of the Greek tongue. And this he did in such perfection, that he triumphed over the Grecians themselves in their own language. Witness that dispute which he had with Timotheus a Grecian, about the force and accent of a Greek word, where both of them growing hot, and betting at last their beards, which they both wore then long, Philelphus won the others beard; and caused it to be shaved off immediately, and kept it in his family as a Trophy: though the poor Grecian, would have redeemed it with a considerable Sum of Money. Indeed they deserved both to lose their beards, that could be so hot about such a hairs matter, as the accent of a word. The statue of this notable shaver, victorious Philelphus I saw here in the town house. Macerata. From Tolentino we went to Macerata a neat town of la Marca; and passing through Recanata, Recanata another handsome town of the same country, we came betime to Loreto. Loreto. Resolving but to stay here one day, we put out all our time to use presently, and spent that afternoon, and the next day, in viewing exactly this sacred place which is so much frequented by the devout Pilgrims of all Christendom. This place at first was nothing but a plain highway, till the Chamber of our blessed Lady (in which the Angel announced unto her the mystery of the Incarnation of our Saviour in her womb) was translated thither miraculously by the hands of Angels, about the year 1294, when Infidels and Turks overspreading the Holy Land, would otherwise have profaned that holy place, which even from the Apostles time had been turned into a Chapel. For my part, though this be no article of faith, yet when I remember what was said in this Chamber by the Angel to our Lady, to wit, non est impossibile apud Deum omne Verbum, nothing is impossible to God, I easily believe that he, who placed this great world itself in a place where there was nothing before, can easily place a house there where there was no house before; and that he who makes an Angel wheel the primum mobile, and the vast machines of the heavenly orbs, quite round in four and twenty hours, may easily make Angels translate this little chamber of our Lady from one part of the world to another. Now that it was so translated de facto, both ancient records, solid depositions, See Turselinus his history of the House of Loreto. constant tradition, and the belief of all, almost, the Catholic of Princes of Europe (who have sent rich presents hither▪ do testify. Besides, I can say this, that the walls are of such a stone as is not used in any house in all the country round about: a great presumption, that this wall is exotic. Again, the Holy House here having no foundation in the ground (as we see plainly) it is not credible that it was built here by men, who would have given some little foundation at least to walls of that thickness, and to a house of that bigness, especially standing alone in the fields, as it did at first, and exposed to all weather. Add further, that the very old painting which is seen upon part of the wall on the inside, showeth the high antiquity of this house. In fine, the whole country would have given the lie to this Tradition at First, or as soon as men had begun, to cry it up for a house brought thither miraculously. Now, as for the Holy House itself, The Holy House of Loreto. it stands in the midst of a great Church, which hath been built over it in Later times, for the better conveniency of the people's devotion, and the Church service: and round about it more immediately, there hath been built a decoration of white marble, which stands half a foot distant from the Holy House, that men may see it was not intended so much for a prop, as for a decoration to it, as also to keep is from the hands of devout pilgrims who otherwise would have made no scruple to have been nibbling at the stones of the walls here, and so in time, have much defaced the Holy House, with their Pious thefts. This decoration is set round with two rows of statues of white marble cut by the rarest workmen of Italy in those times, to wit, Sansovino, Bandinelli, San Gallo, Monte Lupo, and others. The lower row of these statues expresseth the figures of the ancient Prophets: and the other row above expresseth the Statues of the Sibyls, who prophesied among the Gentiles and Heathens of our Saviour's birth of a Virgin; and his Passion; as you may read at large in Lactantius. As for the matter and form of this house; I found it to be of a hard red stone, like brick, but far harder and bigger than our brick: the form somewhat square about the bigness of a reasonable lodging chamber. There's but one window in it; and anciently there was but one door: but now there are three; one at either side, and one behind the Altar, for the Chaplains that have care of the lights and lamps which are always burning here. Towards the upper end of the house, there is an Altar, where the Holy sacrifice of Mass is offered from four in the morneing until one in the afternoon. This Altar is of silver, & was given by Cosmus II. Great Duke of Florence. Before it hangs a Lamp of gold as great as two men could carry. It was the gift and Vow of the Senate of Venice in a plague time. On either side of the walls, are fastened two great Clandlestiks of pure gold, made like Cornucopias and neatly wrought: they were the guife of the great Duchess of Florence Magdalena d' Austria, as her arms upon them told me. On the Gospel side of the Altar, there's an old cupboard within the wall, in which are yet kept some little earthen dishes, which were brought hither with the house, and therefore tradition holds them to have been our Saviour's plate, and our Lady's Vessels. now this cupboard is adorned with a door of silver given (if I remember well) by a Duke of Parma. In the end of the Holy House, there is a window, where it is imagined the Angel entered when he came Ambassador to the Virgin Mary concerning the great business of the Incarnation of his Lord and Master. This window is now cheeked and enriched with silver. Round about above hang silver Lamps; and on the sides of the walls there remains yet some very old painting wherewith this Chamber was painted when it was first consecrated in to a Chapel in the primitive times. In the very bottom of this Chamber, they showed me, by a lighted candle, how that it hath no foundation in the ground; but stands here just as if it had been let down from the air, and set upon the plain ground. Close behind the Altar runs quite cross the Chapel, a great iron grate, through which you see the Statue of Cedar of our blessed Lady, with her son in her arms. It's said to have been made by S. Luke, and was brought hither together with the Chapel, or Holy House. It stands up high in the Very farther end of the Chapel. It's about four foot high, and adorned with a particular kind of Veil hung before it, looking something like a woman's garment. They call these Veils here, Vesti, and there are of divers colours and stuffs; but all rich and glittering; witness that which I saw in the Treasury, which was given by the Infanta Isabel of Flanders, which is valued at forty thousand crowns. It's set thick with six rows of diamands down before, to the number of three thousand; and it's all wrought over with a kind of embroidery of little pearl set thick every where within the flowers with great round pearl, to the number, of twenty thousand pearls in all. Upon the Heads of our Saviour and our Lady in that Statue, are set two rich crowns (close royal crowns) of diamands, given by the Queen of France Anne d' ostrich. Before the breast of this Statue hangs a Royal Tosone, or Fleece, of rich jewels, given by a Prince of Transylvania: a Collar of Rubies, pearls, and diamonds, and a rich cross hanging at it, all given by Cardinal Sfondrati. Round about the Niche, in which this Statue stands, there goes a close row of precious stones of several sorts and Lustures, but all great, both in bulk, in Value, and in number; being seventy one in all, and all together composeing a rich Iris of several colours. Between this Statue of our Lady and the Iron Grate, hang a row of Lamps, (about twelve in all) of pure gold, and all as big as a man's head; one were of exceeds the rest in curious workmanship; and it was the gift of Sigismond King of Polonia. All the rest of the Chapel, where those Lamps hang, is loaden with the rich Vows and Presents of great Princes. These I yet remember: to wit, The image in silver of the eldest Son of Ferdinand the III Emperor with a chain of diamands about it. An Angel of sylver holding out, and as it were, presenting to our Lady a child of gold in swathing bands upon a silver cusben. It was the gift of the foresaid Queen of France being brought to bed of the Dolphin, now Lewis the XIIII. The picture of this Prince of Condé in silver kneeling, a vow of his mother when he went first to war. The Busto of S. Barbara in sylver, set with jewels; the gift of an Archduke of Austria. An other Busto of S. Girione, set with jewels also; a gift of a Queen of Bohemia. The Statue of S. Ladislaus in silver; the gift of Ladislaus the IV. King of Polonia. A fine kneeling stool, or pew, of silver given by Cardinal Colonna, with a world of other silver presents wherewith this place is filled. In fine I saw there the very chimney which was anciently in this chamber; it's under the statue of our Lady and now adorned with silver. Having seen the Holy House, or Chapel, we were led the next morneing into the Treasury, The Treasury. where many other rich presents are kept. This Treasury is a large room 40 paces long & about 15 wide, like a long Chapel vaulted and painted over head. On the left hand of this room, stand great cupboards, which opening above, have little nets of strong wyar before them, which let in eyes to behold, but keep of hands from touching the inestimable treasure contained within them. Some of these presents were given by Popes, some by Kings, Queens, Princes, Cardinals, Generals, Ladies, and noblemen of several Nations. In one cupboard they showed us a whole service for the Altar, that is, Crucifix, candlesticks, Cruets, Basin & Bure, and the foot of the Chalice, all of Amber. In an other, such a whole service, of Agate. An other such a service all of lapis Lazuli, given by Count Olivares. An other all of coral given by the Archduke Leopold. In an other, such a service in Crystal. In an other such a service of silver with flower pots neatly wrought, given by Don Thadeo Barberino Perfect of Rome. In an other, a stately Crucifix of Ebeny adorned with many curious pictures in miniature, given by Pope Clement the VII●I. In an other, the Spread Eagle of diamands, the gift of marry Queen of Hungary. Two crowns of gold enriched with pearl: the gift of a Queen of Polognia. A crown of gold set with great Rubies of extraordinary size; the gift of a Duchess of Nevers. In an other, the Crown and Sceptre of gold enameled, given by Christina Queen of Swede at her first coming into Italy. In an other the enameled Pigeon with a rich jewel in its breast, the gift of the Prince Ludovisio. The heart enriched with Diamands, with a great Emeraud in the middle of it, of an excessive bigness the gift of Henry III. of France at his return out of Polognia. In an other, the rich enameled three cornered jewel, with the picture of the Blessed Virgin in the middle of it; the present of two Bohemian Counts and a Gentleman, who being thrown out of a high window in Prague by the Calumnists, and recommending themselves to God's protection and our Lady's intercession, fell down all three gently without the least hurt. Their names were Count Martinitz, Count Slavata, and a Gentleman that was Secretary to Count Slavata, who being thrown out the last, and falling upon the Count his master, cried him mercey for his rudeness in falling upon him; a great argument that they were little hurt, when they could compliment with one an other. There are now three pillars before that house in Prague, out of which these three men were thrown. In an other cupboard I saw several great chains of gold, given by great men; and some of these by great Generals. In an other, A great Heart of gold, as big as both a man's hands, enamelled with blue, and set on the outside of it with these words in pretty big Diamands, JESUS, MARIA, and within it are the pictures of the blessed Virgin on one side; and of the Queen of England Henrietta Maria on the other; the Heart opening itself into two leaves. In an other, a neat little heart also of gold enamelled, and set with jewels; the present of Madam Christina Duchess of Savoye, and sister to the Foresaid Queen of England, with her own and her son's picture in it. In an other, the picture of our blessed Lady with her son JESUS in her arms, cut in a great pearl, and set in gold. In an other cupboard, I saw a picture of our B. Lady wrought curiously in Indian Feathers of several colours, and cut short as plush, which picture changeth colours as often as you change its situation, or your own posture. In an other, a great custodia of crystal given by Christina of Toscany. In an other, a custodia of Lapis Lazuli. In an other a Diamand valued at twelve thousand crowns, the gift of the Prince d'Oria in Genua. An other of almost equal price given by a Germane Prince. In an other a curious book of gold covered with Diamands with the leaves of gold, but rarely painted in miniature, the gift of a Duke of Bavaria. In an other, the Samaritan▪ Well of gold, with the pictures of our Saviour, and the Samaritan woman in gold also; the present of Cardinal Brancaccio. In divers other cupboards I saw a world of jewels of all sorts, which confounded my memory as well as dazzled my eyes. In other great cupboards, they showed me excellent Church ornaments of most rich stuffs embroidered with silver and gold, but one there was (to wit a whole complete suit for the Altar, Priest, Deacon, and Subdeacon) so thick covered with an embroidery of pearl, and those no little ones, that I could not preceiue the ground of the stuff for pearl: all these were the present of Catherine Zamoisky wife of the Chancellor of Polonia; and they are valued at a hundred and thirty thousand crowns. I know not whether this suit of Church ornaments, or that described above in the Pope's Sacristy, be the richer. On the other side of this room, are great windows, betwixt every one of which, are set upon long tables, divers great towns so precisely expressed in silver, with their walls, ramparts, Churches, steeples, houses, streets, windmills, etc. that whosoever had once seen these towns, would easily know them again in their pictures here: they were all Vows and gifts, and all ingenious Germane work, as well as Germane towns. This is all I can remember, though not half I saw in this Treasury: and having thanked the civil Priest that showed us this fine place, we went out again into the great Church; where I observed upon the great Pillars that make the Isles of this Church, the history of the Holy House engraven in stone, or written in patchment in a fair text-hand, in twelve or thirthen several languages, for the use of the Pilgrims who flock hither from all countries. Going out of the Church I saw before the Church door the statue in brass of sixtus Quintus: and a stately Fountain. From hence we went to see the Cellar of the Holy House which furniseth with wine, not only the Governor's house, the Canons and the Church men, the College of the penitentiaries, the Convent of the Capucins, the Seminarists, the Hospital and all those that belong to the Church any way; but also furnisheth all Pilgrims, yea even all Princes, Cardinals, Bishops, Ambassadors, and great-men of known quality, with wine as long as they stay here upon devotion. For this reason there belong large revenues to this Church, and this Cellar is absolutely the best I saw in Italy. The Vessels are hugely great, and not to be removed from hence. They have away to take out a peéce of their broad sides, and so make them clean. They are all hooped with iron, and some of them are so contrived, that they can draw three several sorts of wine, out of one Vessel, and by the same tap. The experience is pretty, but the wine is better. Now whether these Vessels be too many, or the revenues of the Holy House too great, you may easily conjecture, when so many persons are fed daily, as I mentioned above, and so many thousand pilgrims pass so frequently that way. Turselinus' * In his hist. of Loreto l. 3. c. 25. writs, that between Easter and Whitsuntide, there have flocked thither; sometimes five, sometimes Six hundred thousand communicants; and in two day's space in September (about the Feast of the Nativity of our Lady) there have appeared two hundred thousand communicants, most of which were pilgrims. Having refreshed ourselves in this Cellar, we went to the Apothecary's shop▪ The Apothecary's shop. belonging to the Holy House also, and furnishing physic to sick pilgrims for nothing. There we saw those famours pots which make even physic itself look sweetly, and draw all curious strangers to Visit them. For round about a great inner shop, stand pots of a great size painted by Raphael Urbin's own hand, and therefore judged by Virtuosos to be of great Value, Witness those four only, on which are painted the four Evangelists for the which were offered by a French Ambassador in his King's name, four pots of gold of the same bigness, and were refused. Brave Raphael, whose only touch of a finger could, Midas like, turn galley pots into gold. But as Phidias his statues of clay were as much adored anciently, as his golden ones: so Raphael's hand is as much admired in the Apothecaries shop of Loreto, as in the Vatican Palace of Rome. These pots were given to the Holy House by a Duke of Urbin whose subject Raphael was, and fo● whom he had made them with more than ordinary art. He that desires to know more of Loreto, let him read Turselinus his history of Loreto. For my part, my time being out, I must be gone. Takeing therefore horse again, we made towards Venice, and saw these places in ou● way: Ancona. Ancona the Capital town of the Marca, and one of the best Havens in the Gulf: corresponding with Slavonia, Greece, Dalmatia, and many other countries. It's built upon a Promontory, and backed up land-way, with a good Castle. The Haven was built by the Emperor Traian, whose triumphal Arch is yet seen here, and is the chief monument of this town. Here is a M●lo striking 200. paces into the sea. Pius II. whilst he stayed here to animate in person, the great expidition against the Turks which he had zealously given beginning to, died. In the vaults of the Great Church are kept many saints bodies, & precious Relics. It's called S. Ciriacoes, Church & it is the Cathedral. From Ancona we went to Senegallia all along the Sea side. Senegallia. This town is so called from the Senones Galliae. It's a very neat and pleasant town standing in a sweet air. It's a Bishop's seat. Here began anciently Gallia Cisalpina. From hence we went to Fano Fano. (Fanum fortunae) because of the Temple of Fortune built here in memory of a battle won by the Romans near the River Metaurus hard by were Asdrubal Hannibal's brother was slain. Here's an ancient Triumphal Arch yet standing. Not far from this town also Narsetes overcame Totila. It's an Episcopal town. Pesaro. From hence we went to Pesaro standing also most pleasantly by the Seaside. It's called Pesaro, and Pesaurum in Latin, from the weighing here of the gold which the Romans, besieged in the Capitol, sent hither to be paid to the Gauls, saith Servius. It once belonged to the Dukes of Urbin, but for want of heirs male, fell to the Church by right. From the bridge of stone, which is here, begins the Marca d'Ancona. The air here is thought by Vranoscopists, to be the best in Italy; as are also the figs here. Catholica. From hence we passed by Catholica a poor Village, adorned with nothing but a stately Name, and an Inscription upon the wall of the Chapel, rendering you the reason why this town is called Catholica, which was this. When the Emperor Constantius a fierce Arrian used violence to the Fathers that had been assembled in the Council of Arimini [a town not far off) and would not suffer them to depart (their business being done, which they came for, to wit; the Catholic Faith of the Council of Nice being here asserted and confirmed) till they had complied with the Emperor's faction consisting of Arrians; Many of them too weakly (being weary of so long a stay from their Seats) fell to an unworthy compliance with the Arrian party. Which the zealous orthodox Fathers seeing, left Rimini, and came into this little Village, because they would not communicate with the Arrians: Whereupon this Village got the name of Catholica, because the true Catholic and orthodox Fathers retired hither. If you ask me then, whether this Council of Rimini were good or no; I answer you, that the Council was good and orthodox, and confirmed the Faith of the Nicen Council against the Arrians; which was the business it was called about. And what happened afterwards when the Council was ended by the oppression of the Emperor, is not to be imputed to the Council; but to some weak Fathers as an error of conversation, and a too unworthy complance. Rimini. From Catholica we went to Rimini, called Arriminum in Latin, this is a pretty town, in which the foresaid Council was kept. In the market place I saw the stone (set now upon a pedestal) upon which Caesar stood when he made a speech to his soldiers to make them resolve to march up to Rome. Hard by in the same market place, stands a little round Chapel famous for a miracle wrought there by S. Ant●ny of Milan in confirmation of the ●eall Presence. The History is too long, but seen here painted round the Chapel, with a cast of an eye. From hence we went through Cesena an Episcopal town; Cesena. and Forli, Forli. Forum Livij an other BPs. seat; in the way before we came to Cesena we saw an old inscription in stone set up by a little river's side, which I found to be the very Decree of the old Senate of Rome, forbidding in general, any Officer, or soldier whatsoever to pass over the Rubicon upon pain of being judged an enemy to his country and guilty of High Treason. By which words I gathered that this little river here now called Pistatello, was Rubicon, Rubicon. mentioned in the Decree of the Senate; and that this Decree pointed at julius Caesar and his army. Yet Caesar being resolved to march up to Rome with his army, made aspeech to his soldiers; and finding a compliance in their resolutions, passed over Rubicon, cryeing out: jacta est alea: ●e must now either sink or Swim, and so passed on to Rome, which he soon possessed himself of & then of the world. When once powerful men draw their swords, they throw away their scabbards: and when once they have offended beyong pardon, they strike at the very throat of authority; running upon that horrid maxim, that scelera sceleribus sunt tuenda. From Forli we passed on the right hand to Faenza, Faventia in Latin▪ (leaving the way on the left hand, which leads to Imola & Bolognia.) Faenza is a neat town as all the others we had passed by before: Faenza. but having no considerable thing in it but white earthen pots, called Vessel of Faenza, we stayed not long in it, but made towards Ferrara. In the way I found little worth observation, except only that as we travelled one night somewhat late, for cooleness, I saw millions of little flies in the air, carrying a bright light about them like glowwormes, They continued all the way to our Inn for two hours after sunset, especially upon the corn fields and high grass. It was huge pretty me thought, to see heaven upon earth all most, and flyeing stars conduct us to our lodging. A Po●t would have sworn by all the cords of Apollo's harp, that jupiter then was making Vulcan pave the Vault of heaven with a Mosaic work of Diamands, and that these were only the sparks that fell from him: or that he was repareing the old caussey of the Via Lactea with fresh stars, and that these were the old ones which he had thrown away. I catched some of these fiery flies, to see where it was that they carried their little Lanterns and candles, and I found it was in their tails. The country people call them Lucciole. And I believe, Plin. l. 18. c. 26. Arist. l. 1. de partib. animal. c. 3. these are those flies which Pliny calls Cicindelas, and Aristotle calls 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉. Passing thus along we came late to a little Village, and the next morning betimes to Ferrara. Ferrara. This town of Ferrara was once the Seat of a Sovereign Prince of the house of Esté, but for want of heirs male after the death of Alf●nso the II. it fell to the Church, and Clement the VIIII took possession of it in person by an Entry and Ceremony worthy of the pen of Cardinal Bentivoglio who was there. The town stands in a plain, carrying above four miles' compass; it hath a good Citadel, strong walls, ramparts, bulworks: and a good garrison of soldiers. Here are fair streets, and very handsome Palaces; but people are somewhat thin: The things which I saw here where these▪ The Rarities. 1. The D●mo, ancient rather than beautiful. 2. Oueragainst it, two Statues in brass of the Princes of the house of Esté; the one Duke; the other Marquis: the one Sitting, the other on Horseback. 3. Behind these Statues is the House of Justice, or Town house. 4. The strong palace of the Dukes anciently, is in the middle of the town, with a great mote about it, the court within is painted with the pictures of all the Dukes of Ferrara▪ ●ere the Pope's Legate lieth. 5. The Diamand Palace, The Diamant Palace. as they call it, is of white marble without, whose stones are all cut diamant wise into sharp points. Having seen it without, I longed to see it within hoping that a diamant palace without, would be all carbuncle and Pearl within. But I was deceived; for entering in, I found nothing worth the pains of going up the ugly stairs: and the poor woman that kept the house told me as much, as well as the cold kitchen. I wonder the master of this house doth not keep it always locked up, that strangers might value it by its outside only, which is admirable indeed. 6. The Monastery of the Benedictins is stately, in whose church I found the Tomb of Ariosto author of the long Poëme called Orlando Furioso. Ariosto Tomb. He was esteemed in his life time a great Poet, and as such was crowned Laureate Poet by the Emperor Charles the V. but he was oftentimes seen, even in the streets, to be too much transported with Poëtick fury, and to become Ariosto furioso, while he was penning his Orlando He had a rich Vain, but a poor purse; and while his head was crowned with Laurel, his breeches were often out behind, as well as those of Torquato Tasso, of whom Balzac saith, that though he were a good Poet, yet he had des fort mawaises chauses. 7. The Carthusians church is neat & full of good Pictures. 8. The Church and Convent of the Carmelits is also neat, in whose Library I saw a Manuscript of john Bacon, and an other of learned Thomas Waldensis, both Englishmen, and both Learnedmen. The Acadimy of wits. Here's an Academy of Wits called Gli Elevati. of this town was Hieronymus Sau●narola author of the Triumphus Crucis; The Learned men. and Baptista Guarini author of the Pastor Fido. He that desires to know the history of Ferrara, let him read Giogiovanni Baptista Pigna, The history. who hath written of it ex profess. From Ferrara we went to Milan in two days, the season being good and dry; otherwise in winter, it's too deep a way to go by Land▪ therefore most men embark at Ferrara, and go by boat to Venice. The first day, Passing over the Po in boat at Francalino, We reached Ruigo the first town of the Venetian State. Ruigo. This town is built near where Adria (from whence the Adriatic Sea is called) once stood, Adria. and almost upon its ruins. It's governed by a Podesta and a Capitano Grande, as the other towns of S. Mark are. Of this town was Coelius Rodiginus a man of Various learning, as his books show; and Bonifacius Bonifacij an other learned humanist. From Ruigo we arrived at Milan betimes, but the desire of seeing Venice made us hasten away the next day; deferring to see Milan till our return from Venice. Embarking then betimes in the morning at Milan in a Pi●tta, a neat little barge, taken to ourselves, and much more honourable then to go in the great tiltboate, where all sorts of loosy ruffians and idle people throng you up; we saw a world of stately Palaces and gardens standing upon the banks of the river Brenta, and sewing us that we were approaching to a great town indeed. Some five miles short of Venice, we left the river and the horses that drew us, and ●owed through the Shallow Sea which environeth Venice on all sides for above five miles' space. This low Sea is called here La Laguna; La Laguna. and the water is so shallow, that no great ships can come to Venice: little vessels come by certain channels which are well fortified with castles, forts, & chains: so that no man can come to Venice but with Leave, or knocks. We arrived there betimes; and all the way we admired to see such a stately City lying as it were at anchor, in the midst of the Sea; and standing fixed where every thing else floats. Venice at first▪ was nothing but a company of little dry spots of ground, The origin of Venice. which held up their heads in a Shallow Sea furnished by Saeven rivers, Piava, Sila, Livenza, Po, Adige, Brenta, and Tagliamento, Which run into it. To these little dry spots of ground fisher men repaired anciently for their fishing, and built little cottages upon them. But afterwards Italy being one run by Goths, Huns, and Vicegoths, divers rich men from several parts of Italy, as well as from Milan, fled hither with the best of their goods, to save them and themselves in these poor cottages unknown to those Barbarous nations: and finding by experience this to be a safer place than any else, they began to provide against those frequent disasters of barbarous incursions, by building good houses here. This many men did: & made at last a fine town here, and greater than her mother Milan. This happened twelve hundred years ago, which makes Venice glory, that she is the ancientest Republic in Europe. To which purpose I cannot omit to tell here a pretty story which was told me in Paris of à Venetian Ambassador, who resideing in the Court of France, and finding himself in a visit where there were many Ladies, was seriously asked by a grave old Lady (who heard him speak much of the signory of Venice). Est-elle belle? Whether the signory of Venice were fair or no? yes Madame, said he; one of the fairest in Europe. Est elle grande? Is she great? said the Lady again: yes, Madam, said the Ambassador, she is great enough. Is she rich? Est elle rich? said the Lady 〈◊〉 worth millions, replied the Ambassador. Me thinks then, said the Lady, she would be a good match for Monsieur the King's Brother: yes, Madam, replied he again, but that she is a little too old. Quelle age a elle? Why how old is she I pray you? said the Lady. Madame, answered the Ambassador, she is about twelve hundred years old. At which the company smiling, the good Lady perceived her error with blushing, and Monsieur was unmarried for that present. Indeed Cosmography, and Topography are hard words; and as the old saying is, aliud sceptrum, aliud plectrum, a looking glass is not the same thing with a Map. As for Venice now, Venice now. it's one of the fairest Cities in Europe, and called by the Proverbial Epithet, Venetia la Ricca, Venice the Rich. It's well nigh eight miles in compass, and in form something like a Lute. It hath no walls about it to defend it: but a mote of water that is five miles broad which surrounds it. It hath no suburbs, but a world of little Lands close by it. The Streets of Venice are all full of water; and for this reason they use no c●aches here, but visit in boats. These boats they call here Gondolas, The Gondolas. and there are above twenty thousand of them. For besides that every noble Venetian or rich man hath two or there of his own, there are always a world of them standing together at several public wharves; so that you need but cry out, Gondola, and you have them launch out presently to you▪ these Gondolas are pretty neat black boats like ou● oars, holding six persons conveniently upon the Seats, which are covered over head with a thick black cloth, with windows at either side, which in winter defends you from the wind, and in summer from the Sun. The multitude of these Gondolas help to employ a great many poor men, and to make a world of mariners for public service in time of need. Ordinary people here may go up and down the town by little back allies, which they call here Calle; these by winding up and down, and delivering them over several bridges, hugely puzzle strangers at first. Of these bridges there are above 1500 in Venice, Bridges in Venice. all of stone and of one arch reaching from one side of a street to the other, while the Gondolas run under the Arch. The greatest of these bridges is called the Rialto, The Rialto. built over the Canal Grande, all of white marble. This is one of the finest bridges in Europe, because of the one arch only, & of the vast wideness and height of that arch; the Channel here being as wide as any man can throw a stone. This bridge bears upon its back two rows of shops, and little houses covered with lead; and lest this great weight should make the foundation sink, they built it upon piloties, that is, great trees ramed into the ground, to the number of six thousand in all. In fine, this bridge cost two hundred and fifty thousand crowns. It were a fine sight, to see in a hard frost, the streets of Venice all frozen, and people walkeing up and down upon diamant streets, or a crystal pavement. In the mean time it's no unpleasing sight to see the streets full of water, and such stately palaces on either side, especially the Canal Grande, which runs quite through the middle of the City, and is hedged in on either side with stately houses, among which are counted two hundred palaces fit to lodge any King. The whole City hath in it 32 Monasteryes of Religious men, 28 of Religious women, 70 Parish Churches; and about a hundred and fourscore thousand inhabitants. Having said thus much of the situation of Venice, I will now speak of the Government, Strength, Riches, Religion, and Interest of this Republic, and then fall to the particulars I saw in it. The Gourement. The Great Counsel. For the Government here, it's purely Aristocratical, by the Doge, and the Nobles. The great Counsel consists of two thousand Gentlemen. This is the basis of the state Government: because that out of these are chosen all the other Magistrates, Podestas, Generals, Capitani G●andi, Providetori Generali, Embassadori, etc. This great Counsel assembles frequently in one great Room of the Dogs' palace, where their are seats for them all, and where businesses are voted by Baloting; that is by putting into a close double box of two colours, a little ball, about the bigness of a button, which is made so soft, that no man can hear into whether part of the double box the ball falls. Every Gentleman in this great Counsel hath two of these balls given him, one white, and the other red: the one signifyeing, the affirmative vote, the other the negative: so that they give their votes secretly, and without being known afterwards for what party they stood; or without giving example to others to follow them in their votes, as leading men would do; and so draw all into faction and cabals; To run through all the Maegistrats and Officers of this Republic, the Pregiadi, the savi Grandi, the savi di Terra ferma, the savi de gli Ordini, the consiglio de dieci, etc. would be a-work too long for a traveler, and too tedious for my reader. I will only speak of the supreme Magistrate here, the Doge, The Dogè. or Prince, as they call him, who represents the head of this Republic. He is now chosen by the whole Senate, and is for life: heretofore he was hereditary till the year 1032. the manner of baloting in choosing the Dogé is such a puzzle, that I had rather you should read it in Sabellicus, than I give myself the trouble of describing it. For the most part, they choose a man well strucken in years, and one who hath made his circle of Embassyes: that is, hath been fifteen years' Ambassador in all the chief courts of Europe, three years a piece in every one: and so acquired unto himself a perfect knowledge of all states and state affairs. Being chosen once, he cannot stir out of the Laguna without leave. Nor at home can he do all things of his own head, but with the advice of his Counselours, who are six, chosen out of the most honourable gentlemen of the City. These six sit with him in Counsel, & execute with him all businesses, as to give audience, read letters, grant privileges, and the like: which cannot be executed by the Dogè, if there be not four Counselours with him; and yet they can execute and act without the Dogè: and it's they that have authority to propose in the Great Counsel, things of concern. In giving suffrages, his suffrage is no more than an ordinary Senators, in the Sanate; but he hath two voices in the Great Counsel. The Dogè and these Counselours are called Il C●llegio, but then in main public affairs there enters into this Counsel, six Savi Grandi, five Savi di Terra Ferma, five Savi de gli Ordini, and tre Capi de Quaranta Criminali. This full College distributs businesses to the other Magistrates to be handed, having been headed here. The Habit of the Dogè is ancient, and hath something of the Pontifical habit in it. His Pomp, Train, and Lodging, are all Princely; and in public functions he hath, carried before him the eight silver trumpets, the great Umbrella of cloth of tissue, the cusshen, the Chair, the guilt sword, and a w●ite wax candle carried by a child. All letters of State are written in his name, and money is coined in his name, but the impronto, or stamp of it, is always the figure of S. Mark, or S. Marks lion. For the most part the Dogè is chosen out of those, whom they call here, Procuratori di S. Marco. Procuratori di San Marco. These Procuratori are of high rank and esteem in this Republic. Heretofore there was but one Procuratore di San Marco, whose office was, to have a care of all things belonging to S. Marks Church and the treasure. But now there are twentyfive, most of which have made their circle of Embassyes in foreign Courts, and are fit wood to make Dogès of: though some of them of late have been assumed to that dignity for money; the State now making money of all men, as well as of all things. Their Strength. As for the Strength and Power of Venice, it's very Great; their possessions in Italy, being full as great as the Popes; and out of Italy, far greater. In Italy they hold fourteen Provinces under them. They are Lords of the Gulf, or Adriatic Sea. They possess the coast of Dalmatia beyond the Gulf. They hold the Isles of Corfu, Cephalonia and Zante. Candia, or the I'll of Creta, belongs to them by due. The kingdom of Cyprus also is pretended to by them; and by it, and Candy, whose two crowns they show us in the treasure, Venice is styled Serenissima. The kingdom of Cyprus came to the Venetians by Katherine Cornaro▪ who was made heir of it by her son the King thereof, who died young and with out issue about the year 1438. The stoty is this. Loschi in Compendi● Histor. Katherine was daughter of Marco Cornaro, and niece of Andrew Cornaro two noblemen of Venice. Andrew was sent Auditore Generale into the Kingdom of Cyprus, in the time of james King of that Island, and helped him to many thousand crowns, where by he settled his tottering crown. One day as the King was talkeing familiarly with him, he let fall (whether by chance, or design) a little picture in miniature, of a Very handsome Lady. The King curious to see it, called for it civilly, and viewing it well, fell hugely in love with the Original of it, which Andrew assured him to be far handsomer than the copy▪ and withal added, that if his Majesty liked her, she was his Niece, and that therefore he offered her freely to him, for his wife, with all the money he had already lent him, and a hundred thousand crowns more. The King bit willingly at these two baits, beauty and Money, and was not quiet till he had married her. Of her he had but one son, whom (dying) he left under his mother's protection: but he dying also not long after, left his mother heir of the kingdom; and she at her death, left this crown and kingdom to the Venetians by Will and Gift. This whole history I saw painted in the Palace of Cornaro by the hand of Paulo Veronese. As fo● the strong holds which the Venetians possess in Italy, they are these: Crema, Bergamo, Brescia, Pesch●●ra, Chiosa, and Palma Nuova in Fruth. Palma Nova. This last is one of the best places in Europe Is hath nine royal bastions; eighteen cavaliers, which command all the neighbouring campagnia; it hath di●ches of water about it thirty paces broad, and twelve deep; Its ramparts behind the wall are high and covering, and they are always fringed with a hundred peéces of Cannon, and ready to receive six hundred more, which are always in its magazine ready upon all occasions. And for men and armour, as the great Arsenal in Venice hath always arms in readiness for a hundred thousand men; so this State being peopled with three millions of men, would easily find three or four hundred thousand men of service, and a hundred Galleys: yet their ordinary militia is but of fourscore thousand foot, and some 6000 Horse; and about thirty Galleys. As for their Riches; Their Riches. though their ordinary revenues (before these late wars with the Turk) exceeded not four millions, yet now they spur themselves, and the country●, up to excessive sums. Few dye but they bequeath something to such a Christian service as this war is. Besides this, the taxes are much augmented, and seizures & forfeitures more narrowly looked into, to help public expenses. In fine, besides the great trading which Venice drives, (Aleppo alone bringing in some years, four millions of gold) the Venetiant have found out a Very compendious way to raise, in one quarter of an hour, and by one deash of a pen, fifty hundred thousand crowns, to help themselves withal at a dead lift, and incommodate no man. This they did An 1646, when fifty rich families in Venice gave to the State a hundred thousand crowns a peéce to be made noble Venetians. The like course they took to raise money, about a hundred years ago, when they were set upon by most of the Princes of Europe at once. Their Religion. As for their Religion, its Roman Catholic, and they have never changed it since the beginning of their Republic. Hence Mr. Raymond in his Mercurio Italico page 188. saith truly, that Venite hath this property above all other States; that she is a Virgin, and more, from her first infancy, Christian: having never yet fell, from her Principles either in Government, or Religion. It began to be built the Very same year, that S. Augustin died, (as Baronius observes.) As for the Interest of this Republic, Their Interest. they are now well with the Emperor; not out with Spain, no● too secure of his Friendship; kind with the French, as long as they keep out of Italy; well affected to England; and just friends with the Pope. Now for the particulars which I saw in Venice, they were these. 1. The men Themselves here, The noble men of Venice. who looked like men indeed: and as a Philosopher anciently said, that when he came from Corinth to Sparta, he seemed to come from horses to men: so me thought, when I came from France to Venice I came from boys to men. For here I saw the handsomest, the most sightly, the most proper and grave men that ever I saw any where else. They wear always in the town (I speak of the noblemen) a long black gown a black cap knit, with an edgeing of black wool about it, like a fringe; an ancient and manly wear, which makes them look like Senators. Their hair is generally the best▪ I eversaw any where; these little caps not presing it down as our hats do; & Perywigs are here forbid. Under their long gowns (which fly open before) they have handsome black suits of rich stuffs with stockings and garters, and spanith leather shoes neatly made. In a word, I never saw so many proper men together, nor so wise, as I saw daily there walking upon the Piazza of S. Mark. I may boldly say, that I saw there five hundred gentlemen walking together every day, every one of which was able to play the Ambassador in any Prince's Court of Europe. But the misery is, that we strangers cannot walk there with them, and talk with them, but must keep out of their way, and stand a loof off. The reason is this: This state (as all Republics are) being hugely jealous of her liberty and preservation, forbids her Noble men and Senators to converse with Foreign Ambassadors, or any man that either is an actual servant or follower of an Ambassador, or hath any the least relation to any Prince's Agent, with out express leave; and this upon pain of being suspected as a Traitor, and condignly punished. This makes them shy to all strangers, not Knowing what relation they may have to some foreign state's man of Agent. For the same reason they will not let their wife's visit the wifes of foreign Ambassadors resideing in Venice, for fear of being suspected to commit treason by proxy. They have in the wall of the Palace, in divers places, certain wide mouths of marble stone, over which I found written these words: Denuncie secret, Private informations, into which they cast secretly papers of accusations, by which they accuse secretly any officer, or nobleman, whom they durst not accuse publicly. This maKes men stand hugely upon their guard, and be wary with whom they converse, and what they say. The noble women of Venice● 2. As for the women here, they would gladly get the same reputation That their husbands have, of being tall and handsome; but they over do it with their horrible cioppini, or high Shoes, which I have often seen to be a full half yard high. I confess, I wondered at first, to see women go upon stilts, and appear taller by the head then any man; and not to be able to go any whither without resting their hands upon the shoulders of two grave matrons that usher them: but at last, I perceived that it was good policy, and a pretty ingenious way either to clog women at home by such heavy shoes (as the Egyptians Kept their Wives at home by allowing them no shoes at all); or at least to make them not able to go either far, or alone, or invisibly. As for the young ladies of this town that are not married, they are never seen abroad, but masked like Moscarades in a strange disguise, at the Fair time, and other public solemnities or Shows, Being at other times brought up in Monasteries of Nuns, till they be married. 3. S. Marks Church. Then I went to the Church of S. Mark the Evangelist, whose body lieth here, having been translated hither from Alexandria, 820 & odd years ago; having ever since been one of the chief Patrons of this state, as his Lion hath ever-since been the Arms of the Republic, and its seal in all public writings. This church is built a la Thedesca, as they call it, and as the best Churches built about those times, were. It's neither great nor high; but so rich for the materials, that nothing but Mosaic work and marble appear in it. The roof and the walls a good way down, are curioutly painted with Mosaic histories and pictures; and the rest of the Wall is rare marble. Among those Mosaïck pictures, there are to be seen in the vault of the Arch, over the door of the Treasury, two old Pictures, the one of S. Dominick, the other of S. Francis; both made before they instituted their several Orders, and yet both in the religious Habits which those of their Orders wear; and all this out of the predictions of joachim (Abbot of Curacium, Baronius, an. 1190. and not of S. Fleur, as some wrongly call him) who lived before these Orders were instituted. The picture also of the Pope, near to the Pictures of the foresaid Saints, is said to be a Prophetical picture of the said Abbats describing; representing the last Pope that shall govern the flock of Christ, when all the world shall be of one Religion. The pavement of this Church is suitable to the rest, being in some places composed of vast marble stones naturaly representing the waves of the Sea; in other places its curiously inlaid with stones of several colours expressing Flowers, stars, birds, beasts and the like: among which stones I perceived here and there some Turkey stones of great value among us, but here not scorning to be trod upon. Thirty six marble pillars of a round form, and two foot thick in diameter, hold up the roof of this Church. The High Altar is a rare peéce, especially when you see the back of it open as I did upon the Ascension Eue. This back of the Altar is richly adorned with divers rows of little enameled pictures, a la Greca, set in gold, and enriched with brave pearl and precious stones intermingled every where between the pictures. This most rich ornament, or back of the Altar, was given by a Dogè of Venice, and brought from Constantinople● Behind the High Altar stands the Altar of the B. Sacrament, where there are two transparent round pillars four yards high. In the Sacristy which is hard by, I saw neat Mosaic work in the roof; and an admirable picture of S. Jerome of the same work also. Round about the inside of the Church, over the pillars, hang the Scutcheons of Several Doges, in a large size. For the Dogès at their creation, cause three things to be made. First their picture which is set up in the Sala of the Great Counsel: Secondly their Arms or Scutcheon, which are sometimes of silver & of a huge si●e; & are set up after the Dogs' death in the Church for ever. Thirdly they must make their Picture in the Collegio, or Pregiadi. The Treasury of S. Mark. 4. From the Church we were let in to see the Treasury of S. Mark, which joins to the Church. It was shown us by special leave from above, and by two Noble Venetians who are always present when it is shown. We were first shown the Spiritual treasure, The Spiritual treasure. and then-the Temporal; that is, first the Relics, and then the jewels. The Reliks' were these principally. A great authentical peéce of the Holy Cross, above a span long. It is the greatest peéce I have seen any where, except that in the Holy Chapel in Paris: and though some enemies of the Very Cross of Christ, as well as of other Relics, do jeeringly say, that there are so many peéces of the Holy Cross shown in the world, that if they were all put together, they would make a cart Load of wood: yet I dare maintain more probably, that all the peéces any one man can say are shown in Europe (and I have seen a good part of it) would not make so much of the Cross, as one of those parts on which our Saviour's hands were nailed: seeing the greatest part that we find of it, is no thicker than an ordinary man's finger, & little longer than a span; and that very part of it which I saw in the Pope's own Sacristy in the Vatican, is no longer than a man's little finger: and if the King of France (S. Lewis) in his two expeditions into the Holy Land, could get only so little a peéce of it as that which is shown in Paris in the Saint Chappelle, and if the Pope himself could get no greater a peéce of it, then that mentioned above, I do not wonder if in other places, they show such little shreds of it, as all together would not make two foot of timber, much less a Cart load. We saw also here a finger of S. Mark. His Ring with a stone in it, which our Lapidaries cannot tell how to name. Some of our Saviour's blood gathered up in his Passion, with the earth it was spilt upon. A thorn of the Holy crown of thorns. A nail which nailed the two peéces of the Cross together. A finger of S. Mary Magdalen. A peéce of S. john Baptists Cranium. A tooth of S. Mark. A peéce of S. john Baptists habit. Some of our B. Lady's hair. An anciet picture of S. john Baptist, enameled in gold. A peéce of our Saviour's white robe when he was scorned. A Very ancient picture of our B. Lady carried about anciently by Constantin the Great, who had it always with him. One of the Stones of the Torrent, wherewith S. Steven was stoned. And in fine, the sword of S. Peter. The Temporal Treasure. Then leading us to the Temporal Treasure in an other room, they showed us (by candle light, as they did also the Spiritual Treasure) these things. First, the twelve crowns of gold, and the twelve breast and backpeéces (like women's close Bodies) of beaten gold also, set thick, as well as the Crowns, with exquisite pearl, both round, and big: Twelve young Virgins used to wear them anciently upon a Feast day. Then three great Carbuncles, one whereof weigheth six ounces, and is bigger than an ordinary hens' egg: They Value it at two hundred thousand crowns. Then the two Crowns of gold set thick with precious stones; one being the Crown of the kingdom of Cyprus; the other of the kingdom of Candie. After this they showed us the Dogs' Crown, called here il Corno, because it's made somewhat sharp and turning in at the top, like a horn. It's set round with a close row of excellent pearl, each one as big as a hazel nut, with a Vast Ruby in the front, of it, worth a hundred thousand crowns, say they, and one of the fairest diamonds in Europe in the top of it. Then they showed us many other rich things, as the Flower de Luce of gold with a rich Diamant in it, given by Henry the Third of France at his passing by Venice when he came out of Poland. The two unicorns horns, far less than that at S. Denys in France; but no less true. The two Crucifixes set with pearl and rich jewels, and in great number. The Great Candlesticks and Thurible of beaten gold, and curiously wrought; each one being almost as heavy as a man can carry in both hands. The Great Chalice of gold, as great as a man can lift with both hands. A Saphir weighing ten ounces. A cup, or dish, as broad and deep as an ordinary caslotte (or cap which we wear under our hats) and all of one Turkey stone entire, and of huge value; It was sent unto this Republic by a King of Persia. A Vessel like a tankard, of a rich Cameo; its handle being curiously engraven with a diamant. A little Vase of the roots of Emmeraud. An other of Sardonick. A great cup of Agate. An other of Roman Agate far finer than the former, and more transparent. A rich Pax of Mother of Pearl. A Spanish Ambassador, once viewing this Treasure, took a candle and looked curiously under the long tables upon which these rich things are exposed; and being asked what he looked for, answered: that he looked whether this Treasure had roots or no, as his master's Treasure had, and therefore groweth yearly: meaning the India Fleet of Spain which bringeth home yearly to the King of Spain's coffers and Treasure, twelve millions. 5. The Dogès Palace. Having seen this Treasure & thanked the two noble Venetians that stood by; and requited the under officers that showed it; we went into the Dogès Palace, which joins to S. Marks Church; and mounting up the open stairs into the open Gallery, we saw the two great marble Statues of Mars and Neptune, which stand at the head of these stairs, and signify the strength of the Venetians both by Sea and Land. They are excellent peéces, otherwise great Sansovinus would never have owned them by writing under them: Opus Sansovini. This open Gallery led us into a world of Chambers of justice, and Clercks' offices, all thronged with business and busy men. Going up from hence into a higher story, we saw the Dogès Chamber of audience, his Antichambers, his dineing room, and the like. From thence we were led into Several great Chambers of Counsel, all rarely well painted. After that we saw the Great Chamber, or Sala of the Senate house, where the Nobles meet upon affairs as great as the Chamber. For here they meet about the chuseing of public Officers, either for the governing of the City, or Army: and sometimes they have been forced to stay there eight days (saith Sabellicus) not being able to agree about the Elections; they not being permitted to depart thence till they agree. This Senate house, or Great Chamber, is above threescore paces long, and thirty wide. It's full of Seats for the Noble Venetians, to the number of two thousand men, who have right to enter in here. It's painted on all sides by the rarest painters that were in Italy when this room was made. Over the Dogès Throne, is a rare peéce of painting covering the whole end of the room above, and representing heaven in a glorious manner. It's of the hand of Tintoret. The great pictures upon that side of the room which looks towards the court of the Palace, contain the history of Pope A●exander the III, and the Emperor Federick Barbarossa. I saw also in this great room, and in the next joining to it, the true pictures of all the Dogès of Venice. In the other Chambers of this Palace, in the Churches, and other Palaces of this town, I saw so many, and so rare peéces of painting, of Titian, Tintoret, Bellino, Gentile, castle Franco, Bassano, Paolo Veronese, Perdonone and others, that with Madame Rome's leave, I dare bodily say, that no place of Italy hath so many rare pictures in it, as Venice hath: and perchance, you will be of my opinion, if you read the curious book of Rodolfi, who hath written the lives of the Painters of Venice, and the Venetean State; and sets down where their prime peéces are to be seen. The little Arsenal. 6. Having seen these Chambers of judicature, we were led about to the Sala of the Consiglio de Dieci, (otherwise called, the little Arsenal) in the Palace still. It's a curious sight, and therefore not to be omitted by my traveller. There are arms in it for a thousand men, ready upon all occasions of sedition or reason. The muskets are always charged and primed; and every six months they discharge them, to charge them a fresh. Pikes, and swords, are also so ordered here, that by plucking a string, they fall into the hands of those that should use them: so that in less than half an hour, a thousand men may sally our armed. In the end of the great room where the muskets hang, stands a great iron ball pierced through like a basket hilt, and four times as big as a soldiers helmet; within which there is a spring, which being uncockt by the pulling of a cord, strikes fire into gunpowder which lieth round about within this Ball in a train, and there are so many several ends of match as there are muskets here; half of the match hanging out of the holes of the Ball, the other half being within, and reaching into the train of powder: so that the first man that should come in, and pluck the foresaid cord would presently strike fire, and light the matches all at once; and then every man catching a musket, and one of these matches lighted, they are armed in a moment. This armoury is to secure the Dogè and the Senators (while they are assembled in counsel) from such like treasons as have been plotted against them whilst they were sitting in counsel. And for this purpose, there's a door which openeth out of the Senate house into this Armoury; and the Keys of it are always laid near the Dogè when he sits here in consultation: Nor is this so much an Italian jealousy, as a prudent caution caused by past dangers. For they show us in the great Arsenal, the armour (with one arm only, to be worn under a Venetian gown, while the other arm was showed bare, to take off all suspicion) of Bajamante Theopoli and his complices, to the number of eight hundred men, who intended to kill the whole Senate while it was assembled; and make Baiamante master of Venice. But the plot was dashed in the execution; because Bajamantes brains were dashed out by a poor woman, who seeing him march under her window in the head of his rebellious crew, Sabellicus ●ec. 2 l. 1. threw down from her window a great earthen flower pot upon his head, and killed him dead. His party seeing this, retired, and were soon subded: and his house was turned into a Shambles for Butchers; a fit disgrace for him who would have been the Butcher of his Prince and countrymen. here also in this Arsenal we saw the sword and arms of brave Scanderbag Prince of Albania, who won seven battles over seven the most illustrious Bassas the Great Turk had, and died after all, peaceably in his Estates, in spite of Amurath. It's said, that the great Turk hearing how Scanderbag with his Sword, had cloven men in two, sent to him; and desired him, to send him his sword, his cutting sword: which he did; the Turck tried it upon his slaves, and finding that he could not cleave men as Scanderbag had done, sent him word, that he had not sent him his true sword: to whom scanderbeg replied, that he had sent him indeed his sword, but not his arm. As for this sword, which they call here Scanderbegs sword, it's a broad thin blade, of a reasonable length, but light, and of as good metal almost, as its master. We saw here many other curiosities: as the standard of the Dogè Zany, who restored Pope Alexander the III unto his Seat again; with his sword, Buckler, & Helmet. The standard of the great Turk. The standard of horses hair belonging also to the great Turk, and which he hung out always before battle, as a signal of combat: it was taken by a Franchman called Ciotar. The Statues of Ludovico Sforza Duke of Milan, and of his wife Visconti. The statue or head of Carara, whom they call the Tyrant, but how truly I know not. The Statue or head in brass of brave Venerio, General of the Venetians in the battle of Lepanto. The head in brass also of brave Bragadine, flayed alive by the Turks for his country's service. The picture of santa justina in a great case set with rich stones. This case was made for a great Looking glass which the Venetians sent unto the sultaness of the great Turk; but the ship that carried it, meeting in the way a Fregat which brought the news of a great Victory gotten over the Turks by the Venetians upon Sancta justinas day, it returned back again with the present, and the Senate caused the glass to be taken out, and Santa justinas picture to be set in place of it. Then we saw a rare Carpet, or rather a curious piece of stuff with figures in it, sent to the Republic of Venice by a King of Persia. The habits of two noble Chinesi who were baptised at Venice. The amour, of brave Gatta Mela, with the picture of a cat in his headpiece. The armour of some of the ancient Dogès of Venice, who to the number of forty or fifty, went to war in person, and did such things there, as to make their very armour to be honourable. The habit, buckler, and sword of a King of Persia; the arms are set with rich stones. The armour of Henry the FOUR of France with his pocket pistol. The armour of the Duke of Rohan. The complete armour of a little boy about ten years old, who was found dead in a battle fighting for the Venetians and his country; and not known who he was. Poor brave child! who being worthy never to have died, dost not so much as live in history▪ Indeed I did not think till then, that Mars had his abortives too, dying before their time, and before they were named. Then they showed me Attilas' Helmet, with the head piece of his horse. A Cannon shooting seven shoots at once, as if death with his single dart went too slowly to work. An other Cannon shooting threescore thotts in ten barrels. A halberd with a barrel within it, shooting fourteen shotts. An other halberd shooting seven shotts. A Cannon of iron carryeing two miles, and curiously wrought into flowers with the points of chisels. The collar of iron of the Paduan Tyrant (as they call him here) Carara. The little iron Crossbow of the same Tyrant, with which he is said to have shot needles a spann long, and killed many men privately, who knew not how, or by whom they were hurt. Then the devil's Organs, or a trunk of leather with ten pistol barrels in it of a foot and a half long, and so disposed in oder like organ pipes, that upon the opening of the lock of this trunk, all these barrels being charged with several bullets, should let fly at once, and so scattering wide, kill all those that should be in the room. This trunk was contrived by a revengeful man, who having a mind to be revenged both of his enemy, and of his enemy's friends at once, sent him this trunk by an unknown bearer (as a present from a friend) while he treated his friends at a dinner. The holes through the sides of it, made by the bullets, show the devilish effect of this Trunk; and how well it deserves the name of the Devil's organ. The box of botargoes here is just such another invention. A pistol in a pocket book here, is as bad as the others, which being charged and let off, would presently read your doom. Swords and daggers, with pistol and little gun barrels running along their blades, which being held drawn with the broad side to a man, appear to be only plain swords and daggers, and yet they discharge thrusts not to be parried by any fenceing guard. I saw also here a fine Tabernacle of Crystal: a burneing Lamp found in Antenor's tomb in Milan, a burning glass, which burneth half a mile off: a rare Adam and Eve with the Serpent and the Tree, all cut out of one piece of wood by the rare hand of Alberto Dureo: and in fine, the picture of King james of England, the only picture of any foreign Prince that I saw there. The Piazza of S. Mark. Having thus seen this Cabinet of Mars, we went out of the Palace into the Piazza of S. Mark, upon which both the foresaid Church of S. Mark, and the Dogès Palace look. This is one of the noblest Piazzas that a man can see in any town. It runs from the Sea side up along the Palace to the Church of S. Mark, and from thence turning on the left hand, it spreads itself into a more large, and longer open place, most beautiful to behold: for the whole piazza, even from the Sea side, to the further end, is all built upon arches and marble pillars; and raised up with beautiful lodgings, fit to lodge all the Procuratori of S. Mark; all the rich foreign merchants; a world of persons of condition; the Mint, and the famous Library. In that part of the piazza which lies under the Palace, the Nobili Venetiani walk altogether, twice a day, to confer about business of State. This meeting here of the Noblemen is called the Broglio. And in the end of it, close by the Sea side, stand two great pillars of rich marble, the one bearing upon it the Image of S. Theodorus; the other, the Lion of S. Mark, these two Saints, S. Mark and S. Theodore, being the two Patrons of this City. These two pillars were erected here by a Lombard, who required no other recompense for his pains, then that it might be lawful for dice-players to play at dice between these two pillars without being punished or molested, nay though they played false play. Here also between these two pillars, they execute malefactors, to show that they deserve not the protection of those two patrons, who break the orders of that town which is under their protection. It's pity that the Lombard himself was not whiped here at least, for making himself the Protector of idle rogues there, where the Saints are Patrons of honestmen. Over against the Palace stands the Mint, in a place called La Zeccha, and from hence the gold coined here is called Zecchino, a peéce of gold worth some seven shillings fixpences of our money. Hard by it, stands the Library famous both for the quantity and quality of the books that are in it. petrarch (once Canon of the Church of Milan) gave his Library to it: and Bessarion a Greek Cardinal of great Learning and worth, gave as many Greek Manuscripts unto it, as cost him thirty thousand crowns: and yet by this Legacy, Bessarion was but even with the Venetians, who honoured him in such a particular manner, as to send out the Bucentauro itself to bring him into Venice, being sent thither Legate by the Pope. 8. Going from hence into the other part of the Piazza which stands before the Church, I espied upon the very out corner of the wall of the Church (as you come out of the Palace) four Porphiry Statues of four merchants embracing one another. Having enquired what those Statues were set for there, I was told by a grave old gentleman of Venice, that those, whom these Statues represent, were four merchants and strangers, who brought hither most of the jewels mentioned above in the Treasury; and that afterwards poisoning one another, out of covetousness, left this State heir of all. Just before the Church stand three tall masts of ships upon curiously wrought Piedestals of Brass, and each mast bearing, upon great days, a stately flag and streamers. These three mast● signify the three noblest parts of the Venetians dominions, to wit the kingdoms of Cyprus, and of Candy, and the State of Venice. In this Piazza I found always a world of strangers perpetually walking and talking of bargains and traffic, as Greeks, Armenians, Albanians, Slavonians, Polonians, jews, and even Turks themselves; all in their several habits, but all conspireing in this one thing, to sell dear; and buy cheap. Here also they have every night in summer, a world of Montibancks, ciarlatani, and such stuff, who together with their drudges and remedies, strive to please the people with their little comedies, puppet plays, songs, music, stories, and such like buffonnerie. It's strange to see how they find daily either new fooling, or new fools, not only to hear them but even the throw them money too for such poor contentments. In this Piazza also stands the Campanile, or High steeple of Venice, distant some fifty paces from the Church of S. Mark. It's built forty foot squar on all sides, and two hundred and thirty six high. The top of it is covered with guilt tiles, which in a sunshine day, The High steeple. appear gloriously a far off. The foundation of it is almost as deep underground, as the top of it is high above ground; a wonder, if you consider rhat it stands in Venice. From the top of this Campanile we had a perfect view of Venice under us, and of all its neighbouring Lands, Forts, Sea, and Towns about it; as also of the outside of S. Marks Church, its Frontispiece, its Cupolas and the four horses of brass guilt which stand over the Frontispiece. These horses came out of the shop, not out of the stable, of Lisippus a famous statuary in Greece, and were given to Nero by Tiridates King of Armenia. They were carried by Constantin the Great from Rome to Constantinople; and from thence they were transported hither. In fine, from the top of this steeple, we saw the compass of the great Arsenal of Venice, which looked like a little town in our sight. Indeed some make it three miles about; but I cannot allow it so much. The sight of this Magazine of war a far off, made us hasten down from the steeple to go see it nearer hand. The Arsenal. 9 Takeing therefore a Gondola, we went to the Arsenal, Where after the ordinary formalityes of leaving our swords at the door, and paying the Porter's fees, we were admitted, and led through this great Shop of Mars. It's so well seated near the Sea side, and so well built, that it might serve the Venetian Senators for a Castle in time of danger: and in it there is a Well of fresh water, not to be poisoned, because of two peéces of Unicorn's horn set fast in the bottom of it. I confess, I never saw any where such Oeconomie as is here observed. Fifteen hundred men are daily employed here, and duly paid at the week's end, according to their several employments and works. The expenses of these workmen amount to a thousand Ducats every day in the year: so that they make account that they spend in this Arsenal four hundred & thirty thousand crowns a year: Enough almost to maintain a pretty army constantly. Every workman here hath wine twice a day, and that very good too, but that it is a little mingled with water. We were led through all the vast rooms of this Magazine, rooms like vast Churches. In one of them I saw nothing but great ●ares for Galleys, seven men going to one oar. In another, nothing but vast sternes. In another, nothing but vast nails for Galleys and ships. In another they were making nothing but Salpeeter for gunpowder. In another they were casting great Cannons, Mortar peéces, and Chambers. In an other they had nothing but a pair of vast Scales to weigh Cannons with. In another, Masts for Galleys and ships of a prodigious greatness and length; and yet of such a rare timber, that one filipping upon one end of them, you hear it easily at the other end, by applying your care to it. Some of these masts are worth fourscore pounds. In other vast rooms I saw store of Cannons of all sizes both for ships and Galleys: where also I saw some Turkish Cannons with words upon them in the Turkish Language. There I saw also one Cannon shooting three shotts at once: another five: one great Cannon found buried in Candy-full of gold medals: the great Cannons cast here while Henry the III. of France dined in this Arsenal. They had heretofore a prodigious quantity of Cannons here, but now these rooms are much emptied by reason of this war with the Turks. In other great rooms I saw huge heaps of Cannon bullets of all sizes, with some Ensigns won over the Turks. Then mounting up into the Chambers above, I saw in two vast rooms, arms for fifty Thousand men. in another, arms for twelve Galleys: in another, arms for Fifty Galleys. Here also I saw the suit of armour of Scanderbag: that of the Dogè zany, the Lantern of Don john of Austria's ship in the battle of Lepanto: the Lantern of a Turkish Galley: the armour of Baiamante Theopoli and his complices, with one arm only: some arms taken from the Turks in the battle of Lepanto, other arms taken from the Genuesi; a great Crossbow, shooting Vast arrows of iron above five quarters long: an invention of great use before Gun were found out. A cannon bullet with four long irons, like the tops of halberds, which shut up close into it when you put it into the Cannon, but open again of themselves, as soon as the bullet is out of the Cannon's mouth; and so spreading into four parts, cut all they meet, with strange fury: a dangerous invention in Sea battles, to to spoil cordage and tackling. Here also they show us the description of the town and Fort of Clissa, and how it was taken by the Venetians some 20 years ago. Then descending from thence, we went to see the places where they make new Galleys, and mend old ones. There I found a vast square court three hundred paces broad in every square, and full of vast penthouses capable of holding in them, Galleys of fifty paces long a peéce. In the midst of this Court is a vast square Pond of water, let in from the Sea, where the new Galleys are tried; and the old ones are let into the Arsenal to be mended and rigged a new. Here I saw a world of Galleys, and a world of men working about them most busily. There were heretofore divers of these great Courts full of Galleys, but now they are much exhausted; the Galleys being abroad in war. Hence it is observed that This Arsenal, before these wars, could arm 200 galleys, and two hundred thousand men. Here it was that they made a Gallye, and set her out at Sea while Henry the III dyved here in the Arsenal; which made that King say then, that he would give three of his best towns in France (except his Parliament towns) for such an Arsenal. Indeed the Arsenals of Paris, Genua, Zurick, Naples, and Geneva, seemed to me to be little gunnsmiths' shops in comparison of this. They were then making here two new Galleasses (when I was last there) of vast bulk and expenses. In fine I saw here the old Bucentoro; and presently after the new Bucentoro. This last is the Galley of State, of the Dogè, when he goeth forth upon the Ascension day accompanied with the Senate, to espouse the Sea, as they call it here. This is a noble Gallie all guilt without, and wainscotted round about the Deck, with guilt seats. There runs a partition of wood quite along the Deck of the Galley, with seats on both sides and with a low open roof of wood, to let in air, and yet keep off the sun; and all this is guilt and painted, and capable of five hundred Senators, who in their scarlat robes, wait upon the Dogè that day. The Dogè fits in the Puppe, in a Chair of State, with the Pope's Nuncio on one hand of him, and the Patriarch of Venice on the other, and a place for music behind them. The slaves are all under hatches, and not seen at all: but their oars, (twenty on each side) move all at once like great wings which make the Bucentoro move most maiesticaly. And this is all that I can remember in this Arsenal, except the Cellar of Wine, and the great rooms, (as I came out) where women only are employed in mending old sails; and men (a part) in making great cables: and indeed those waste Anchors which lie near the wooden bridge here at the entrance, stand in need of cables of the greatest size. The Assensa. 10. I happened to be at Venice thrice, at the great Sea Triumph, or feast of the Ascension, which was performed thus. About our eight in the morneing, the Senators in their scarlat robes, meet at the Dogs' Palace, and there taking him up, they walk with him processionaly unto the shore, weet the Bucentoro lies waiting them; the Pope's Nuncio being upon his right hand, and the Patriarch of Venice, on his left hand. Then ascending into the Bucentoro, by a handsome bridge thrown out to the shore, the Dogè takes his place, and the Senators sit round about the Galley as they can, to the number of two, or three hundred. The Senate being placed, the anchor is weighed, and the slaves being warned by the Capitains' whistle and the sound of trumpets, begin to strike all at once with their oars, and to make the Bucentoro march as gravely upon the water, as if she also went upon cioppini. Thus they steer for two miles upon the Laguna, while the music plays, and sings Epithalamiums all the way long, and makes Neptune jealous to hear Hymen called upon in his dominions. Round about the Bucentoro flock a world of Piottas and Gondolas, richly covered overhead with somptuous Canopies of silks and rich stuffs, and rowed by watermen in rich liveryes, as well as the Trumpeters. Thus foreign Ambassadors, divers noblemen of the country, and strangers of condition wait upon the Dogès galley all the way long, both coming and going. At last the Dogè being arrived at the appointed place, throws a Ring into the Sea, without any other ceremony, then by saying: Desponsamus te, Mare; in signum perpetui dominij: we espouse thee, ò Sea, in testimony of our perpetual dominion over thee: and so returns to the Church of S. Nicolas in Lio (an Island hard by) where he assists at high Mass with the Senate. This done, he returns home again in the same state; and invites those that accompanied him in his Galley, to dinner in his palace: the prepatives of which dinner we saw before the Dogè was got home. This ceremony of marrying the Sea, as they call it, is ancient, and performed yearly in memory of the grant of Pope Alexander the III, who being restored by the Venetians unto his Seat again, granted them power over the Andriatick Sea, as a man hath power over his wife; and the Venetians to keep this possession, make every year this watery Cavalcata. I confess, this sight is stately, and a Poent would presently conceive, that Neptune himself were going to be married to some Nereide. 11. Having seen this Ceremony in the morneing, we went after dinner to see the Evening Corso at Murano, The Corso at Murano. where we saw those fine Gondolas and Piottas, which we had seen waiting upon the Dogè in the morneing, now rowing in state up and down the great Canale of Murano to the sound of Trumpets; and with all the force of the brawny watermen that row them. Sometimes meeting too thick in the arches of the wooden bridge here, they crack one an others Gondalas, breack one an others oars, overturn their boatmen, and are stoppt for an hour together without being able to untangle. Ambassadors themselves of Foreign Princes appear in Corso this evening with all their bravery (five or six Gondolas all in one livery) as well as all the gallants and gentry of Venice, who appear here this evening at Corso. 12. The next morneing no sooner appeared, The Fair but new sights appeared too, and now upon land, and the Scene was S. Marks place, where the Fair opening this day, and lasting for ten days, drew all the gallants of Venice to come and behold all the gallantry and riches that either domestic, or foreign marchands could set forth to sale. But the most part of the young Ladies that came to see the Fair, came in an odd dress, with a false nose, and a little beard of black wool, disguiseing their mouth and nose: so that they could see all the Fair, and be known to no body. Thus they go often to marriages, and other assemblies when they have no mind to be known. S. George's. 13. Having thus seen these foresaid sights, we went on with visiting the other things in the town. and one day we went to the Island of S. George Major, where we saw a stately Monastery, Church, Cloister and Garden, which take up this whole Island. The Church is one of the best in Venice, and built by Palladio the famours Architect. In the Church I was shown the great silver Lampe, as great as two men could carry. In a pillar of marble standing over a side Altar I was shown the picture of a Crucifix, which was discovered, at the polishing of this stone, to have been naturally in the Vain of the marble. In the Refectory, I saw an admirable picture of the supper of Cana in Galilaea, made by Guido Rheni. I visited it often, and could never satiate my eyes with such a rare piece. It takes up the whole end of the great Refectory. 14. The Palace of Signore Nani. From thence we rowed to the Palace of Procuratore Nani which stands in an Island beyond S. George's. The Palace is richly furnished with the true pictures of many modern Princes and Ladies of France, England, and Germany. This Palace, hath one strange thing belonging to it, beyond the Palaces of Venice: to wit, a neat garden, for Gardens in Venice, are as wonderful things, as Coaches: and I cannor remember, that looking upon the whole city from the top of the high Steeple, I saw two places where there were any green trees. But the best thing that I saw here, was the Procuratore Nani himself, the greatest Ornament of the Venetian Senate, whose learned pen hath already given us an excellent history of Venice. 15. The Capucins. From hence we walked to the Capucins Convent which is in the same Island, and Church neatly built, and far above the rate of Capucins; but it was a Vow of the Senate in time of the plague; and they regarded more, in building it, their own honour, than the Capucins simplicity. Madonna di Salute. 16. From hence returning again towards the town, we steered our Gondola to the Church of Madonna di Salute, a new round Church, vowed by the State in another plague time, and likely to be one of the finest Churches in Venice when it shall be ended. In the Sacristy I saw a rare picture of a feast by Tintoret; and others in the roof by Titian. La Carita. 17. From hence We went to the Church of the Canon Regulars, called La Carita, in whose Monastery Pope Alexander the III, lay hid privately like a poor Chaplain of this Church, unknown to the Very Fathers of this Place, till at last he was discovered by a Devout Pilgrim, who having seen him often in Rome, and hearing him say Mass here, discovered him to the Senate; and so, he was both acknowledged by the Senate, and defended by them, as we said above. Over the entrance of the Choir, is seen the picture of Alexander the III receiving the Emperor Federick to the kissing of his feet, by the means of the Dogè of Venice, who stands by. Here's also a good picture of our Saviour's raising up Lazarus again to life: it's of the hand of Bassan. 28. An other time I went to the Dominicans Church, called S. Givanne & Paulo, Ss. Giovanne & Paulo. where I found among the Tombestones, that of the Lord Henry Aubigni (second brother to the Duke of Lenox and Richemond) who died here in his travels. Before the door of this Church stands the Equestris statue in brass guilt of Bart●lomeo Coleone Bargamense a great Commander, to whom (as the words bear, ob militare imperium optimè gestum) the Senate decreed this statue to be erected. The Tabernacle and Altar are very stately. The Chapel of S. Hyacinth, & the miracles of this Saint are of the hand Bassan & Palmarino. the martyrdom of S. john & Paul is a Masterpiece of the hand of Titian. The Convent also of S. john and Paul is one of the most stately ones in Italy. The Refectory is famous for painting. S. Saluatore. 19 The Church of S. Saluatore is a fair Church, and well adorned with neat Tombs of divers Dogès and great persons. Upon the back of the High Altar is seen a picture of the Transfiguration, of the hand of Titian: Upon an Altar on the right hand of the Wall, is a picture of the Annunciation, under which Titian wrote these words, Titianus fecit, fecit, to assure men by this double affirmative, that it was a good peéce, worth his twice owneing. There's an other picture of the Last Supper, made by Titians' master. Upon the Epistle side of the High Altar stands a little Chapel, over whose Altar is the Tomb of S. Theodorus with his body in it. He is one of the Patrons of this town. S. chrysostom. 20. In the Church of S. chrysostom I saw upon a side Altar on the left hand, the statues in stone of our Saviour and his twelve Apostles, neatly cut by Tullius Lombardus, whose rare statues adorn also S. Antony's Tomb at Milan. His statues are easily known by the neat hands. 21. In the Church of the Apostoli I saw a rare picture of S. Lucy, but now somewhat old. 22. In the Church of the jesuits I saw the Tomb of S. Barbara Virgin and Martyr. 23. In the Domo (the Cathedral of Venice, The Domo. but standing much out of the way) I saw little considerable but the Tomb of S. Laurentius justinianus, a holy man, a great Preacher, and the first Patriarch of Venise; the Patriarchal seat of Grado, being removed hither in his time. 24. I saw also the Church of S. jacomo, S. jacomo. the first Church that was built in Venice, and built twelve hundred years ago in the infancy of Venice, as an old inscription here told me. Here are some good pictures of Lanfrancus, and Marcus Titianus, old Titians' nephew and scholar. The Greeks Church. 25. And being in Venice upon S. George's day (the 23. of April) we went to the Greek Church, I mean to the Greek schismatics Church, which is dedicated to God in honour of S. George, and therefore this day was one of their greatest solemnities. Their ceremonies & Service differed little from the Catholics Greeks: & if any one desire to know their tenants, and how near they come to the Roman catholics, let him read a book in a thin folio printed at Wittenberg an: 1584. under this title, Acta & scripta Theologorum Wittembergensium & Hieremiae Patriarchae. The jews Synagogue 26. We went after dinner one Saturday, to see the jews Synagogue. Among other things I heard here a Rabbin make a Homily to his flock. He looked like a French Minister, or Puritanical Lecturer, in short cloak and hat. The snaffling through the nose made all the edification that I saw in it: It was in Italian, but the coldest discourse that I ever heard in any language. Indeed it was their Sabbath day, and they eat no other meat that day, but cold meat. 27. The Glass houses at murano. An other day we went to Murano again, to see the glass houses which furnish amost all Europe with drinking glasses, and all our Lady's cabinets with Looking glasses. They utter here for two hundred thousand crowns worth a year of this brickle ware; and they seem to have taken measure of every nations belly and humour, to sit them with drinking glasses accordingly▪ For the High Dutch, they have high glasses, called Flutes, a full yard long, which a men cannot drink up alone, except his man, or some other, hold up the foot of this more than two handed glass. For the English that love toasts with their drink, they have curious tankards of thick crystal glass, just like our silver tankards. For the Italians that love to drink leisurely, they have glasses that are almost as large and flat as silver plaits, and almost as un easy to drink out of. And so for other nations. In one shop they were making a set of glasses for the Emperor, of five crowns every glass: They were drinking glasses with high covers made like spread eagles, and finely guilt. Sometimes to show their art, they make here pretty things. One made a ship in glass, with all her tackle, guns, masts, sails, & streamers. An other made an Organ in glass three cubits high, so justly contrived, that by blowing into it, and touching the stopps it sounded musically. A third made a perfect Castle, with all its Fortifications, ramparts, Cannons, Sentry houses, and gates. Here also I saw them make those vast Looking glasses, whose brickleness showeth Ladies themselves, more than their reflection doth. In fine, in Murano you see the Palace of signior Camillo Trevisano with the rare garden and fountains à la Romana. The shops. 28. After this, we went up and down the town of Venice, sometimes a foot, to see better the Shops, as those of silks, clothes of gold; of Books, and the Apothecaryes' shops, where I saw them make their famous Treacle: sometimes in gondola, to View over and over again, the Canale grande, and the brave Palaces which hem it in on bothsides: sometimes entering into the best of those palaces, The Palaces. to see their rich furniture and contrivances. The best are, of justiniani, Mocenigo, Grimant, Priuli, Contarini, Foscoli, Loredano, Gussoni, and Cornaro. 29. Then I enquired what learned men had adorned Venice, The Learned Men. and I found these to have been the chief, Laurentius justinianus, Hermolaus Barbarus, Petrus Bembus, Aloysius Lippomanus, Paulus Paruta, Baptista Egnatius, Ludovicus Dolce, Paulus Manutius, with divers others. I saw some years ago the noble and ingenious Loredano, whose witty books make him famous over all the Academyes of Italy and Europe. As also the Procuratore Nani, whose excellent History hath got him immortal fame. The Academy of wits. 30. Here's an Academy of wits called Incogniti, and for their arms, they have the river Nilus, with this motto; Incognito, e pur noto: unknown, and yet famous. The Historians. He that desires to know the history of Venice, let him read Andrea Morasini, Paolo Paruta, Sabellico, Bernardino Tomasino, Corid●, and Nani. Having thus seen all Venice, over and over again, in a months stay there, I was most willing to leave it; having found it true of Venice, what Socrates said of Athens, that is was melior meretrix, quam uxor; a fine town for a fortnight; but not to dwell in always; The Defects of Venice. and this, by reason of some stinking channels; bad cellars for wine; worse water; and the moist air of the Sea not the most wholesome; scarcity of earth even to bury their dead in; and little fuel for firing. So that finding the four elements wanting here in their purity, I was willing to leave these polished hollanders, and return to Milan. Milan▪ Milan is the second town of the Venetian State, though once the Mother of Venice. It's old enough to be mother of Rome itself; having been built by Antenor, whose Tomb is yet seen here. The town is very great, and fuller of good houses, then of men of condition: taranny, and too frequent murders having much depopulated it, in point of nobility. It stands in the Marca Trevigiana. The walls about it are strong, and backed up with fine ramparts. It lies near the Euga●ian hills, in a fertile soil, and plain, which makes the Proverb say: Bologna la grassa, ma Padua la passa. It's famous for the study of Physic, as many of our thrice worthy Physicians in England can testify. The chief things I observed in it are these. 1. Antenor's Tomb. Antenor's Tomb, with Gotick letters upon it: which makes me doubt whether this Tomb be so ancient as they make it. 2. The public Schools, called here Il Bue, or Ox; what if the first Readers here came from Oxford, as they did to the University of Pavia? 3. The Physic garden, to acquaint the Students in Physic, with the nature of simples. S. Antony's Church. 4. The Church of S. Antony of Milan, whose body lies in the open Chapel on the left hand; and this Chapel is adorned with curious figures of white marble representing the chief actions of this Saint's life. Under the Altar reposeth his body▪ and before it, hang some 27 great Lamps of silver, or silver guilt. Oueragainst this Chapel, stands just such another open Chapel, called, the Chapel of San Felice, which is rarely painted by famous Giotto, who made the Campanile of Florence. In a side Chappel on the right hand, is the tomb of brave Gatta Mela, whose true name was Erasmo di Narni, of whom more by & by. The Tomb of Alexander Contareno General of the Venetians, and it is one of the best cut tombs I have seen: It's fastened to a side pillar. The Choir of this Church is all of inlaid wood▪ In the Cloister of the Convent are seen many tombs of learned men: and in that quarter of the cloister, which lies upon the Church, I found written upon a black marble stone, these words: Interiora Thomae Howardi Comitis Arondeliae: The bowels of the Earl of Arondel, late Lord Marschal of England. No wonder if his bowels be enchased in marble after his death, who in his life time, loved marbles con todas sus entranias, with his whole bowels. His Marmora Arondeliana, commented upon by learned Mr. Selden, show this sufficiently. This great man died here in Milan, and yet in a manner at home; because he had made Italy familiar to him while he lived at home. 5. Going out of this Church I saw the Equestris Statue of Gatta Mela, the Venetians General, whose tomb I saw even now in the Church. He was nicknamed Gatta, because of his watchfulness in carryeing business. 6. The Church of S. justina is one of the finest Churches of Italy; S. justinas Church & Monastery. and no wonder, seeing its architect was Palladio. Under the High Altar of this Church, lies buried the body of S. justina. The fine Cupolas; the curious Pavement of red and black marble; the rich High Altar all of pietre commesse; the curious seats in the Choir, with the histories of the old and new Testament cut in wood in them; the fine picture at the end of the Choir, over the Abbot's Seat, containing the martyrdom of S. justina, by the hand of Paolo Veronese; the Tomb of S. Luke the Evangelist; and that of S. Mathias; the Well, full of Relics; and the Tomb of S. Prosdochimus S. Peter's disciple, and first Bishop of Milan, do all make this Church very considerable. Before this Church and Monastery, lies the Campo Santo, and a fair field where they keep monthly a mercato franco, and where the evening Corso is kept, by Ladies & noblemen in their coaches in summer. 7. The Monastery here is also one of the fairest in Italy, and the second of that Order. The painted cloister, the neat Library, and the picture of S. justina in the Abbats chamber, made by Paolo Veronese, are all worth your curiosity. The Domo is not so well built, as it is endowed with rich prebendaries. A hundred thousand cownes a year go to the maintenance of a hundred Cleigy men, and officers belonging to it. The prebend's are 27, and ordinarily gentlemen. 28. The Palace of the Capitano Grandè is stately without: here stands the curious Library. 9 The great Hall called here, The great Hall. Il Palagio di Ragione, is a vast room 180 paces long, & 40 broad, without pillars. It hath four great doors to it, and over every door the Statue of a learned Paduan. This Hall is also painted in the roof with astronomical figures, representing the influences of the superior bodies over the inferior. At one end of it you see a round stone, with these words written about it, Lapis opprobrij, The stone of disgrace, upon which whosoever will sit publicly, and declare himself not to be soluendo, cannot be clapped up in prison for debt. At the other end of this Hall stands Livys Head in white marble, and out of a little back door there, joining to the wall of this Hall, stands Livyes busto in stone, with this epitaph under it in old Gothick letters; Ossa Titi Livij Patavini unius omnium mortalium iudicio digni, cujus prope invicto calamo invicti Populi Romani res gestae conscriberentur. S. Augustino. 10. The picture of the High Altar in the Augustins' Church, made by Guido Rheni; and that of S. john Baptist in the Sacristy, of the same hand, are both exquisitely well done. 11. The ruins of an old amphitheatre are seen hard by the Augustins' Church. L'Arena. There's now a house built upon the place, yet the Court is oval still, and carries the name of Arene. Here they tilt, and use other sports of Cavalry. S. Dominico. 12. In the Dominicans Church there is a very stately High Altar of pietre commesse. Behind the Altar (in the Choir) are the neat Tombs of the Carari, once Signors and Princes of Milan, till they were put out by the Venetians. 13. S. Francisco. In the Church of San Francisco Grande I saw a curious Altar of white polished marble, which pleased me vety much, and the tombs of Cavalcante & Longolio. 14. In the little neat Church of the Oratorians, called the Church of S. Thomas of Canterbury, S. Thomaso di Cantuaria. lies buried the Lady Katherine Whitenhall, in a vault made for the nonce, and covered with a white marble stone. She was daughter to the late Earl of Shrewsbury, and wife to the Noble and Virtuous Thomas Whitenhall Esquire. If you would know more of her, read here the ingenious epitaph written upon her tomb, and made by her sad husband. For my part, having had the honour to see her often in her Travels, I cannot but make honourable mention of her here in mine; She having so much honoured my profession of Travelling by her generous humour of Travelling. She was as nobly borne as the house of Shrewbury could make her: as comely, as if Poets had made her. Her behaviour was such, that if she had not bien noble by birth, she would have passed for such by her carriage. Her good qualities were so many, that if they had been taken in peéces, they would have made several women Noble, and Noble women happy. She was wise beyond her years; stout above her sex; and worthy to have found in the world all things better than she did, except her Parents and Husband. Her only fault was that, which would have made up other Lady's praises, too much courage; which befell her with the name of Talbo●. But whilst her only courage haled her on to journeys above her sex and force (having seen Flanders, France, and Italy, accompanied by her noble Husband, and a handsome train) In her return back; like a tall ship, coming laden home and fraughted with precious acquisitions of mind, she sunk almost in the haven, and, alas! Dyed. 15. Here are two Academies of wits; The Academies of wits. The learned Men. the one called Gli Ricoverati: the other, Gli Infiammati. The most famous men of Milan for learning, were these, Livy, Apponius, Paulus the jurisconsult, Sperone Speroni, Antonius Querenchus, jacobus Zabarella: and Titian the famous Painter. He that desires to know the History of Milan, The Historians. let him read Angelo Portinari delle felicitade di Milan: Antonio Riccobono, de Gymnasio Patavino, & de eius praeclaris doctoribus: as also the book called Gl'Origini di Milan. Having thus seen Milan, we steered towards Milan again, to make the complete gyr● of Italy. The first day's journey was to Vicenza, Vicenza. a fine town belonging to the Venetians, and standing upon the two rivers of Bachilione, and Rerone. Here we saw, the neat Townehouse and large piazza: the house and fine garden of Count Valmerana, with the curious Labyrinth in the garden: the Arcus Triumphalis made by Palladio at the town's end, letting you into a fair field called the Champo Marzo, where Ladies and Cavaliers, in great store, meet at the Corso in their coaches every summer Evening: the admirable Theatre The Theatre. for plays and Operas; it was made also by rare Palladio, & is capable of three thousand people, who may all sit, and see with conveniency. The fine palaces here, and those full of people of condition. The Academy of ●its. The Histo●ians. Here's an Academy of wits called Gl'Olympici, He that desires to know the History of Vicenza, let him read jacomo Marzari, and Alfonso Loschi. From Vicenza we went to Verona, called Verona la Nobile, belonging to the Venetians also. It standt in excellent air, Verona. and no man ever saw it but liked it. It's watered with the river Addeses, which coming out of Germani, runs by Trent and so to Verona. Hence this town abounds with good provisions, wines, and rich merchants: Which makes me of opinion, that Verona would be a bettet summer town for strangers to live in, than Milan. The things that I saw here, were these: The three Castles, which with the new bulworks make this town able to defend itself against any enemy. 2. The Cathedral, or Domo, ancient rather than stately. In it is buried Pope Lucius the III, with this ingenious epitaph upon his tomb: Luca dedit lucem tibi, Luci, Pontificatum Ostia, Papatum Roma, Verona mori. Imo Verona dedit tibi Lucis gaudia, Roma Exilium, curas Ostia, Luca mori. 3. The famous tomb of the Signori della Scala, who once were Masters here, and from whom joseph and julius Scaliger pretend to have come. This tomb is seen from the Street, and is much esteemed for its height and structure. 4. In the Monastery of S. George, the rate picture of S. George made by Paolo Veronese, for which the late Lord Marschal of England offered two thousand pistols. 5. The Amphitheatre▪ The rare Amphitheatre, built at first by the Consul Flaminius, and repaired since by the townsmen; and now the most entire amphitheatre in Europe. Here's also an Academy of wits called Gli Philarmonici. The Academy of wits. The famousest men for learning here, The learnmened. were these: Zeno Veronensis, an ancient Father and great Preacher. Cornelius Nepos, Pliny the sec●nd, Catullus According to that, Mantua Virgilio gaudet, Verona Ca●ullo. Fracastorius, Onuphrius Panuinus, Paulus Aemilius the historian: Francisco Pona; Al●ysius Novarinus; and Paolo Veronese, the ingenious Painter. Near Verona, upon the Plains before you come to the town, was fought a famous battle, where C. Marius defeated the Cimbers. Near this town also was fought a famous battle between Theoderick and Odeacer, where the latter was defeated. He that desires to know the history of Verona, let him read Torello Saraina, The Historians. Girolamo di Corte Compendio dell Istoria di Verona; and the Antiquitates Veronenses of Onuphrius Panvinus. From Verona we went to Brescia by the way of Peschiera and Disensan●. Peschiera is a strong Fort belonging to the Venetians, Peschiera. and guarded by a constant garrison. It stands upon the Lago di Garda, Lago di Garda. Lacus Benacus anciently, and is almost surrounded by its Crystalin waters. It's a most Regular Fortification, with five Bastions, and high Ramparts, which cover the whole town. Disenzano is a little town upon the Lake of Garda also. Disenzano Here they have excellent fish, and Vine; that is, rare Carpioni, and muscatello, which they call Vino Santo. From hence after dinner, we arrived betimes at Brescia, Brescia. another strong town of the Venetians. We saw here the Castle; the Town house; neat Churches; the ramparts and walls of the town; the crystalin Brooks running through the streets; and the shops of the gunnsmiths, especially that of famous Lazarino Comminazzo. The best Historians of the Brescian affairs, is Ottavio Rossi, The History. in his book called Memoria Br●scianae. From Brescia I went once to Crema and Bergamo, Crema. two strong towns of the Venetians, and both frontiers to the State of Milan. The first is very strong and famous for fine linen made here. Bergamo. The latter is strong too, both by its Castle, good walls, and its high situation upon a hill, which gives you a fair prospect into the Milanese for twenty or thirty miles. In the Church of the Augustins lies buried Ambrose Calepinus author of the excellent Latin Dictionary, which learned Passeratius hath set out since with great additions. It's in six languages. From Bergamo I went to Milan, one days journey. An other time I went from Brescia to Milan by the way of Mantua, and Mirandola. Mantua. Mantua belongs to a Sovereign Duke, or Prince, of the house of Gonsague. Its stands in the midst of Marshes which are nourished by the river Mincius: so that there's no coming to it but by two long bridges over the Lake. And yet this town was taken some forty years ago: no town being impregnable where an Ass laden with gold can enter; or where faction keeps one gate. For about that time, the Emperor's Army, by secret intelligence, presenting itself before it, was let in; and sacked the town. At the entrance of the town gates, they observe the fashion of many other towns in Italy, to make Travellers leave their pistols and carabins at the gate where they enter, and not see them again till they meet them at the other gate where they go out; giving them, for all that, a contrasegno or little talley, where of you keep one peéce, and the other is tied to your pistols, where by you may claim and challenge them. This is an ancient custom in the Romans times, as I find in Valerius Maximus, who saith, it was the practice of those of Marseilles (than a Roman Colony) ut hospitia sua, Valeria. Maxim. l. 2. c. 1. quemadmodum advenientibus humana sunt, ita ipsis tuta sint. As for Mantua itself, it's well built, and full of good houses. The Duke's Palace was heretofore one of the richest of Italy. I was told that it had seven changes of hangings for every room in the house; besides a world of rare pictures, Statues, plate, ornaments, cabinets, an unicorns horn, an Organ of Alabaster; six tables, each one three foot long, the first all of emerauds, the second of Turkey stones, the third of hyacinths, the fourth of Saphires, the fifth of Amber, the sixth of jasper stone. But the Imperialists swept all away. The origin of the house of Gonsague is from Germany. The Duke's Family. For a long time they were only Marquises of Mantua, till Charles the V. made them Dukes. The Revenues of this Prince are about five hundred thousand crowns. His Revenues. His Interest. His Interest (as that of the other lesser Princes of Italy) is to join with the stronger of the two Nations France, or Spain. And he hath been often forced to put now and then a French garrison, now and then a Spanish garrison into his strong town of Casal, Casal. one of the strongest places I saw in all Italy: His strength. having an excellent Citadel at one end of it; a strong Castle at the other, and strong ditches, walls, and ramparts every where. In fine, this Duke can raise, about fifteen thousand foot, and two thousand horse. Of Mantua were these two excellent Latin Poets; old Virgil, it's Learned Mem. and modern Baptista Mantuanus a Carmelit. He that desires to know the history of Mantua, It's History. let him read Mario Aquicola. From Mantua we went to Mirandola, Mirandola being invited thither by its wonderful name. It is a principality far more ancient than great; and it is so called, from Three children borne here of a great Lady, Franciscus Pius. Leander Albatus. at one birth. The story as it is pretty, so it is related by good authors, and therefore I will give it you here, in the end of this my Italian journey, as a fair well. And 'tis this. Constantius the Emperor, Sonn of Constantin the great, had à daughter called Euridis; who being grown up in years, fell in love with Manfred a courtier of her Uncle Constantin, à handsome well bred young gentleman. Manfred was both courtier enough, and wise enough, to understand this to be no small honour; and therefore embraced her affection with a corresponding flame. In a word, they meet often; talk of it; give mutual promises; make all the money they can, and jewels, and fly away secretly. They come into Italy, land at Naples, from thence to Ravenna; and at last pitch upon this country where now Mirandula stands. It was then a place endeavoured with thickets and underwoods', and furnishing some pasturage for sheep, and cottages for shepherds. Here than they choose to live privately and converse with none but country swains, and shepherds. Blind love whither dost thou hurry, Princesses, to make them prefer cottages before Courts? At last with their money they buy land, and Manfred grows Soon to that authority among his neighbours, that they choose him for their Head; and recurre unto him, upon all occasions for his advice and protection: In the mean time (having solemnly married Euridis at his arrival in Italy) she brings him forth three sons at once, Picus, Pius, and Papazzo; and Manfred grows far more considerable daily in these parts. At last the Emperor Constantius coming into Italy upon his accasions, and being complimented by all the several provinces thereof, this Province among the rest, chose Manfred as their Ambassador to the said Emperor, to carry to him the tender of their respects and homage. Manfred accepted of the employment, and carried himself so gallantly in the Embassy, that the Emperor knighted him, and upon further trial of his worth, raised him to high favour. Manfred seeing the realityes of the Emperor, thought it now high time to discover himself unto him. Whereforecasting himself one day at the Emperor's feet, and begging his pardon, he discovered himself unto him, and told him his whole story, and adventures. At fitst the Emperor was a little troubled; but finding such freedom and gallantry in his carriage, mingled with such humble ingenuity in the Confession of his fault; he not only pardoned what was past, but presently sent for Euridis and her children to come to him, and live at court with him. This done he makes Manfred Count and Marquis, of a great part of these countries, and gives him leave to build towns and Castles there: and for his arms gives him the black Eagle. In fine, in memory of the three children borne so wonderfully at one birth, he commands that the chief town thould be called Miranda. After the death of Constantius, Manfred and his Lady returned with great riches unto their old dwellind place, and there began to build Miranda, which in process of time was called Mirandola. This true story if it look like a Romance, you must not wonder; seeing Romances now a days, look like true stories. The Prince of Mirandola receives yearly fourscore thousand crowns. The greatest ornament of this country, was that famours joannes Picus Mirandulanus; Io Picus Miranduilanus. whose life S. Thomas Moor wrote, and having written it, lived it. From Mirandula I struck to Parma, and so to Piacenza, Lodi, and Marigno, described all above; and at last to Milan again, where I had been before, and where my giro of Italy ended, as now my journey and description doth. I takeing here a new rise from Milan, and crossing through Switzerland by the Lake of Como, and over mount S. Godart, came to Basil. Where embarking upon the Rhine, I saw Strasbourg, Brisac, Spire, Philipsbourg, Openhem, Coblentz, Hamerstede, Worms, Francfurt, Mayence, Colen, Dusseldorp, Skinksconce, Raise, Wesel, Arnehem and divers such fine Rhenish towns. Then having Viewed Holland and Flanders, I came at last to Calais, and so home to my own Dear Country England, by the way of Dover. FINIS. A TABLE OF THE NAMES OF THE CHIEF TOWNS Contained in this second part. A. ADria. 361 Albano. 306 Amiclae. 259 Ancona. 350 Assisium. 321 Auersa. 269 B. Baiae. 297 Bergamo. 440 Brecia. 439 C. Caëta. 263 Capua. 268 Campania. 267 Carigliano, River. 266 Casal. 442 Catholica. 352 Ceravalle. Cesena. 355 Crema. 339 Cuma. 303 D. Disensano. 439 E. Elysian fields▪ 298 F. Faenza. 356 Fano. 351 Ferrara. 357 Foligni. 321 Forli. 355 Formiae. 262 Fossa Nova. 259 Firscati. 307 Fundi. 260 G. Gandulfo. 307 Grotta dell Cane. 292 Grotta di Posilipo▪ 290 K. Kingdom of Naples. 207 Kingdom of Cyprus: 373 L. La Laguna. 362 Lacus Avernus. 302 Lago di garda. 439 Loreto. 322 M. Macerata. 322 Mantua. 44● Marino. 259 Minturna. 266 Mirandola. 443 Mola. 262 Mons Massicus. 267 Monte Falco. 321 Monte Garo. 267 Murano. 423 N. Naples. 269 Narni. 318 P. Milan. 426 Palma nova. 575 Pansilipus Mt. 290 Peperno. 259 Pesaro. 352 Peschiera. 438 Puzzolo. 296 R. Recanatà. 322 Rimini. 354 Rome. 3 etc. Ruigo. 361 Rubicon, Riv▪ 355 S. Senegallia. 351 Spoleto. 319 Sulphatara. 295 T. Taracina. 259 Terni. 319 Tiber, Riu. 318 Tivoli. 313 Tolentino▪ 321 Tres Tabernae. 259 V. Veletri. 259 Venice. 363 etc. Verona. 436 Veswius, Mt. 284 Via Appia. 261 Via Flaminia. 317 Vicenza. 435