A LATE VOYAGE TO HOLLAND, WITH Brief Relations OF THE TRANSACTIONS AT THE HAGUE, ALSO Remarks on the Manners and Customs, Nature, and Commical Humours of the People; their Religion, Government, Habitations, way of Living, and Manner of Treating Strangers, Especially the ENGLISH. Written by an English Gentleman, Attending the Court of the King of Great Britain. Printed for John Humphreys, 1691. THE CONTENTS OR Table of General Matters Sect. I. THe Accidents that fell out in our Voyage, with a more particular respect to His Majesty, also of the Treatment, and Reception at the Hague, etc. Sect. II. Containing a Description of the HAGUE, and the King's Palaces, with the Nature, Humours, and Treatment of the Inhabitants. Sect. III. Some Further Relations on the late Affairs and Transactions at the Hague, with respect to His Majesty, and the several Princes. Sect. IV. Containing Particular Observations on the Manners and Customs, Nature and Commical Humours of the Dutch Boars, or Peasants; the Nature of their Habitations, way of Living, and manner of Treating Strangers, Especially the English. Sect. V. Of the Nature of the Country in General, it's Situation, the way of Travelling, Expenses, etc. Sect. VI Of the People of Holland in General, their several Ranks and Degrees, with their Manners, Humours and Dispositions. Sect. VII. Of their Religion, the different and Incredible Number of Sects among the People, Particularly in Amsterdam. Sect. VIII. Of their Way of Trade, Intrigues in overreaching, and Manner of Increase in Wealth, etc. Sect. IX. Of their Military Forces by Sea and Land, with their State Revenues, etc. A LATE VOYAGE TO Holland, etc. Sect. I. The Accidents that fell out in our Voyage, etc. WE departed from London Thursday January 16th. 1690. about Nine in the Morning, and came that Night to Cittingbourn; the next Day, about Noon, we came to Margaret, in the Isle of Thanet; and the same Evening we went on Board the Frigate that carried His Majesty's Music, which lay then in the Road, with the rest of the Fleet, Commanded by Admiral Rook: Early the next morning, being Saturday the 17th. the King Arrived from Gravesend, attended by the Dukes of Norfolk and Ormond, the Earls of Devonshire, Dorset and Portland, and other Grandees of the Court: About Noon, the Signal being given from the Admiral, the whole Fleet consisting of Twelve Men of War, Seven Yatchs, and many Tenders, set Sail, with a fair Gale. On Tuesday the 20th, We came in sight of the Coast of Holland, near the Island of Goree, but the weather being darkened with Fogs, and the Shore choked up with heaps of Ice, piled up one upon another, it was not for us to come near: However the King put himself into a Shallop to get to the Land, notwithstanding the danger that threatened him; and when all the rest were terrified with the Perils wherein His Majesty ventured his Person; and the Seamen themselves were not in a little Terror, it was observed; that He himself, was the only Person, nothing at all dismayed. In the mean time the Fogs grew thicker and thicker, insomuch, that we who were in the Man of War, soon lost sight of the Shallop, where the King was; and Night coming on, His Majesty was for Ten hours exposed to all the Injuries of the Air, and the Waves of the Sea, which fometimes came into the Shallop; so that the Lords who were with him, had their clothes all covered with Ice: However the next morning His Majesty Landed in the Island Goree, and went into a Country Man's house, which had no more room to receive Him, and all the Lords of his Train, than one miserable Chamber and a Kitchen; But it was a welcome Retreat after so great a Hazard. After the King had shifted his Linen and his clothes, and had been Complemented by the Magistrate of the Island, who offered him his House, which His Majesty refused, He took Coach again in the same Coach that brought him to the Country Man's House, and went aboard the Shallop again, to Land upon the firm Continent; But than he met with new difficulties, for the small Vessel could not get near the Shore for the Ice; so that two Seamen were forced to take the King in their Arms, and carry him to the Shallop: At last His Majesty, with our whole Fleet of Tenders, (the Men of War returning for England) Arrived at a place called Orangie Poldar; here His Majesty was Complemented by the Prince of Nassau Sarbrach, Camp-Marshall, the Count of Berka, the Emperor's extraordinary Envoy, Monsieur Catonna, the Spanish Ambassador, the Deputies of the States of Holland, the Prince of Frizeland, Count Horn; and several other Persons of the Highest Quality, who attended him to Houslaerdike, where he reposed himself for some hours. 'Twas thought His Majesty would have continued here for some Days, till all things were ready for the Magnificent Entry they were resolved to make for Him. But he told them, he desired none of those Honours, well knowing that the Glory of a Prince does not consist in Appearing, but in Acting. The King therefore went the same day to the Hague, and Arrived there about Six in the Evening, Accompanied with the Lords already mentioned, and surrounded with the Guards of the Body. And in regard the Kings coming was in a manner a kind of surprise, his Entrance was also without any Ceremony. So that all that could be done in Testimony of the public Joy, was only by some Peals of Cannon, and Ringing the Bells. Nevertheless, the Burgesses of the Hague had prepared along time before for His Majesty's Public Entry, and had been at considerable Charges to make a Glorious Appearance; and all the Towns adjoining, had prepared to be present at the Solemnity. In a Word, all the Hollanders were willing to see the King in Public, and to assure themselves, with their own Eye, that a Prince, whom they love so infinitely, and of whom the common Enemy had spread so many false Reports, was still alive, and returned into their Provinces, which obliged the States to entreat his Majesty to make a Public Entry; which he refused a long time, that such Ceremonies were but the loss of that time which he had resolved to spend altogether in Action. At length all that they could obtain from the King was, that he would dine about a quarter of a League from the Hague, at a House of the Earl of Portlands, and return in his Coach through the midst of the Burgesses, ranged in Files, from the Court to the end of the City, which was done on Thursday, February 22d, about four of the Clock in the Afternoon, to the unexpressible Satisfaction of the People, all the Inhabitants of the Towns round about being got together, and perhaps there never was seen at the Hague such a vast concourse of People. I shall not spend time in describing all the particulars of this Entry, which had nothing of extraordinary Magnificence, except the three Triumphant Arches, which surpassed in Beauty and Magnificence, all that was ever made in France, under the Reign of Lewis XIV upon the like Occasions. There you might see represented the Principal Actions of the King, in Honour of whom they were Erected, Accompanied with several Inscriptions and Devices perfectly corresponding with the Subjects to which they were applied, and which appeared to be done by the hand of a Master. There you might particularly see Europe delivered from the gripes of her Ravisher; the Liberty of Holland defended and preserved; that of England restored; Ireland subdued; and the Protestant Religion maintained. The whole Ceremony ended in the Evening with Fire-Works in several places of the City, several Peals of Cannon and Valleys of small Shot discharged, as well by the Burgesses, as by the Regiment of Trison which was in Arms, with Bonfires and Fireworks, before the Court: After all was over, they still continued giving several Testimonies of their Satisfaction to see once more a Prince so highly beloved by the Hollanders; and in regard the whole proceeded from a sincere Affection, there is a great Probability that these Rejoyceing will long endure. On the other side the King manifested an extraordinary Goodness and Affability to all Societies, and private Persons that came to kiss his Hands. Admiral Tromp was one of this Number, and his Majesty honoured him with the command of the Holland Fleet for this Summer's Expedition; which was no sooner spread about the Country, but you might sensibly perceive an Augmentation of Joy among the Hollanders for the Kings coming: His Coach was environed with crowds of People that followed him where e'er he went; and by a Thousand Acclamations Testified their Satisfaction that WILLIAM the Conqueror would command their Army by Land; and Trump, who justly may be called a second Neptune, was to command their Fleet by Sea: and here, for the present, I shall break off my Relations of the transactions at the Hague, and divert the Reader with my observations on the Place. Sect. II. Containing a description of the HAGUE. THis curious Village and most delightful Place, the Residence of that August Senate, which has been, as it were, the Arbiter of Peace, and War to all Europe, whose charms are so great, its Buildings so Stately and Magnificent, and its streets so large, its shades so sweet, its Inhabitants so civil, and so good Natured, that one may call it the Delight of the World; it hath three very pretty and delightful Meadows on the side of Delft, and Mountains of Sand on the other side, to cover it from the Rage of the Ocean, which is not above half a League distant from it; at the end of which is the small Village called Scheveling, which is Inhabited chiefly with Fishermen, where is a curious hard sandy shore, admirably contrived by Nature, for the Divertisement of Persons of Quality; and here in the Summer time the States, foreign Ambasadors, and their Ladies, etc. in their Coaches and six Horses, Ride on the Sands for several Leagues; the road from the Hague to this Village is a late made way, cut through vast deep Mountains of Sand, paved through with curious stone, a work fit for the Ancient Romans. That side which looks to Leiden, hath a very pretty and large Wood, with curious Walks and Groves, of Oak, Elm, and Lyme-Trees, where there is a Park stored with variety of Deer. The Inhabitants take the Air there in the Summer Season, with a Divertisement capable to render them envied even among the Gods, moved by this, that the pretty Ladies, take their pleasure without fear of the Fabulous plunder, so much celebrated by the Greeks, whereby possibly they sometimes make them real and veritable. The Counts of Holland frequently kept their Courts in this palace, chiefly moved thereunto by the pleasantness of the place, and its commodious Situation for Hunting; Our King (when Prince of Orange,) kept his Court at this place, where he has a most stately Palace, the back part of which, with the great Hall, sufficiently testify its Antiquity. There is on the side of it, a great square, in which place, on the side of the Levant are three Magnificent Lodgments, built a few years since; the Doeles make the Corner, whereof His Present Majesty, they say, laid the first stone: Over against the other corner is another Palace built by Prince Maurice of Nassau, in which are to be seen the Portraitures of all the Kings in Europe, with many curiosities brought from America. The Voorhant Frontispiece as well as the Houses that face the Court on the side of the Vivier, make by far the pleasantest Quarter of the Hague, by reason of the large and spaciousness of the Streets, and the number of Trees that are planted there; you may see great numbers of Persons of Quality of both Sex's resort thither in the Evening, some in their Coaches, and some on Foot. The Cloister of the Jacobines which was built on the said Voorhant, at this day still retains the name of the Church of the Cloister. There is another Church, built much after the form of the Theatre in Oxon, and is of so Admirable a piece of Architecture without, that none within the seven Provinces (or scarce in the World) is comparable to it; there's no pillars within▪ so that the Minister may be seen in every place of the Church, by thousands of People without any Impediment. The Counts of Holland's Chapel which is in the Court, is at this day a Church for the French Refugees; there are two pretty places like squares, the one before, and the other behind the Court, where all the Houses resemble those of Princes. The States of Holland reside here, as well the Councillors of the Provincial Court, as of the Grand Council. The Cities of Holland have built here very Magnificent Houses for their Deputies, of which in my Opinion that of Leyden, is one of the best Scituate and next the Court. The Ambassadors of princes, the State's Allies, have their Residence here. The Groote Kirck, or great Church is very fine, in the midst of which is to be seen the Arms of the Famous Knights, the Order of Toyson D'ore, which plainly shows that they there Celebrated the Feast of the said Toyson: The Tower is very high, and its Form is Quadrangular, built with bricks, which may be seen at a vast distance: In fine, this place is, at all times, so well Inhabited by Gentry, and Persons of the greatest Quality; that if we consider its Splendour, the Magnificence of its Buildings and Streets, the affluence of the Nobles, and the pleasure of Converse; The Hague is one of the prettiest Courts, and the most agreeable in the Universe. Sect. III. Some further Relations on the Affairs & Transactions at the HAGUE. AFter the King came to the Hague, few days passed without the Arrival of some Princes, or other considerable Persons, as well to have the Honour to wait upon his Majesty, as to confer with him about the present Affairs. 'Tis true that most of the Princes came Incognito, as well to avoid the disputes of Precedency, as to confer more Familiarly together, and without the Pesterment of Formalities. The Elector of Brandenburg, who lay at Cleves for some time, in expectation of the Kings coming, no sooner heard of his Arrival by the Courriers that were forthwith dispatched to give him notice thereof, but he hastened to the Hague, where he Arrived in Cognito, the 24th of January, The Duke of Wirtenbergh, Prince Regent, during the Minority of the Heir, and the Prince his Brother arrived the 29th, and were admitted to the King a little time after. The Count of Windisgrats, from the Emperor, Arrived February 4th, and was immediately admitted to the King. The Duke of Bavaria Arrived the 6th, about ten of the Clock at Night, and went to wait upon the King the next day about four a Clock in the Afternoon, with whom he had a Conference of two hours long. The Marquis of Castanaga, Governor of the Spanish Netherlands, arrived the next day with a jolly Train, of which however but one part appeared, because the Princes were Incognito. The Landgrave of Hesse Cassel arrived the 11th, accompanied by the Count of Lip, the Baron of Gars, and several other Lords. The Prince of Commerci, General of the Imperial Forces, arrived the 15th. The Duke, and one Prince of Courland, arrived the next day. The King regalioed the greatest part of these Princes, and was also pleased to accept of Entertainments at some of their Houses. It would be too long to make a Recital of all these Feasts. I shall only therefore mention two; to show what are the principal Ceremonies observed upon such Occasions. His Majesty gave an entertainment to the Elector of Brandenburg the 3d. of February, at his House in the Wood; the King had an hours Conference with the Elector, which being ended, they entered into a spacious Dining Room, where was a Table and Cloth laid, with one only single Vermilion Furniture, (consisting of the Gold Plate, fine Napkins, Knife, Fork, and Spoon,) and an Elbow Chair, where the King sat down; After that a Chair was brought for the Elector, with a white Satin Cushion, and a Vermilion Furniture laid him, like the Kings. Then the King Commanded Seats and Furnitures to be brought for all the rest of the Lords that were present, who were placed in this Order: The Elector on the King's Right Hand; next to whom sat the Duke of Ormond, the Earl of Scarborough, Monsieur Colbar, and Monsieur Dankelman, the Earl of Portland sat at the lower end of the Table, just opposite to the King; The Duke of Norfolk on the King's Left Hand; next to whom sat the Count of Denhoff, and then the General Spaen closed that side of the Table, next to the Earl of Portland: The first Health was begun by the King, who whispered it softly to the Elector, and the Elector to the rest without Naming it; after that the King began several other Healths, which he carried to the Elector, and the Elector to the rest without Naming: The King and the Elector were served each of them by a Page, all People being put out of the Room, with Orders given to the Guards, to let no Body enter. The Drums beat and the Trumpets sounded when the King and the Elector drank; but not for any of the rest. The 5th of the same Month the King Dined with the Elector of Brandenburg, who went out into the very street to receive him, and carried him into a spacious Dining Room, where the Table was covered with Eleven Furnitures; and in a short time after the meat was served up. The King sat in an Elbow Chair; on the King's Right hand sat the Lord Chamberlain, and then the Earl of Portland: On the left hand of the Elector sat the Duke of Ormond, and then the other Lords of the Court, without any distinction of Precedence; and Monsieur Colber, performed the Office of Esq Carver, the King's Butler was also present to pour out the Wine. The King was served by one of his Pages, and two of his Gentlemen stood behind his Chair. When the King returned, the Elector accompanied him, to the very Boot of his Coach. All these Divertisements of Entertainment, and pleasure, were intermixed with serious Conferences, his Majesty being unwilling to lose a moment of Consultation for the general good of the Confederate Affairs: But all these Conferences are kept so secret, that it is impossible to penetrate the knowledge of them; nor shall we understand the Conclusions but by the Effects that will follow. The King has sat in the Assembly of the State's General, in that of the States of Holland, and in the Council of State, to all which Bodies he expressed himself in most Affectionate Terms, which makes it appear, that his new Dignity has no way lessened the Love and Affection which he had for those Provinces. On the 1st. of March, the Duke of Zell arrived at the Hague; and the Duke of Wolfenbuttel, his Brother, the Tuesday following. The Elector of Bavaria went the same day to Amsterdam. On the 6th, the King set out for Loo, the Duke of Zell going in the Coach with him, and the Elector of Bavaria followed the next day; the day before the Elector of Brandenburg and the Langrave of Hess● went straight home; and the rest of the Princes parted with Mutual Satisfaction, and my Noble Lord returning for England, I Attended on him. Sect. IV. Containing Particular Observations on the manners, Nature, and Humours, of the Dutch Boars or Peasants; the Nature of their Habitations, and way of living. THeir Soil (where they Inhabit) is all Fat, though wanting the colour to show it so; for indeed it is the buttock of the World, full of Veins and Blood, but no bones in't. 'tis a singular place to fat Monkeys in. There are Spiders almost as big as small Shrimps, their Gardens being moist, abound with them, and were they but venomous, to gather herbs, were to hazard Martyrdom. You may travel among them though you have not a guide: For you cannot balk your Road without the hazard of drowning. There is not there any use of an Harbinger. Wheresoever Men go, the way is made before them, where (if your Foreman be sober,) you may ●ravel in safety, otherwise you must have stronger Faith than Peter had, else you sink immediately. A starting horse endangers you to two Deaths at once, breaking of your Neck, and Drowning. Some things the Boars do here that seem wonders. 'Tis ordinary to see them fish for Fire in Water, which they catch in Nets, and transport to Land in their Boots, where they spraed it more smoothly, than a Mercer doth his Velvet, when he would hook in an Heir upon his coming to Age. Thus lying in a Field, you would think you saw a Cantle of green Cheese spread over with black butter. Their ordinary Packhorses are all of Wood, carrying their Bridles in their tails, and their Burdens in their Bellies. When they travel they touch no ground, and when they stand still they ride; and are never in danger but when they drink up too much of their way. The Elements are here at variance, the Subtle overswaying the Grosser. The Pire consumes Earth, and the Air the Water. They burn turffs, and drain their Grounds with Wind-mills, as if the Colic were a Remedy for the Stone; and they would prove against Philosophy the World's Conflagration to be Natural, even showing thereby that the very Elements of Earth is combustible. The Land that they have, they keep as neatly as a Courtier does his Beard: They have a method in Mowing. 'Tis so intervened with Water and Rivers, that it is impossible to make a Common among them. Though their Country be part of a main land, yet every house almost, that's Inhabited by the Boars, stands in an Island. And that though the Boar dwell in it, looks as smug as a Lady that hath newly locked up her Colours, and laid by her Irons. A Gallant Masking suit sits not more complete, than a coat of thatch though many years wearing. If it stand dry 'tis embraced by Vines; But if you find it lower seated, 'tis only a close Arbour in a plump of Willows and Alders, pleasant enough while the Dog-days last. The Bridge to this is a Fir-plank with a Box of stones to poiz it withal, which with the least help turns round like the Executioner when he whips off a Head: That when the Master is over, stands drawn, and then he is in his Castle: 'Tis sure his fear that renders him suspicious; That he may therefore certainly see who enters, you shall ever find his window made over his Door. When you are entered the house, the first thing you encounter is a Looking-Glass; no question but a true Emblem of Politic Hospitality; for though it reflect yourself in your own Figure, 'tis yet no longer than while you are there before it: When you are gone once, it Flatters the next Comer, without the least remembrance that you e'er were there. The next are the Vessels of the House Marshaled about the Room like Watchmen; All as neat as if you were in a Citizen's Wives Cabinet; for unless it be themselves, they let none of God's Creatures lose any thing of their Native Beauty. The Linings of their Houses is more Rich than the Outside, not in Hangings, but Pictures, which even the poorest of the Boars, are there furnished with: Not a Cobbler but has his Toys for Ornament. Were the Knacks of all their Houses set together, there would not be such another Bartholomew Fair in Europe. Their Beds are no other than Land-Cabins, high enough to need a Ladder, or Stairs: Up once, you are walled in with Wainscot, and that is good discretion to avoid the trouble of making your Will every Night; for once falling out, else would break your Neck perfectly. But if you die in it, this Comfort you shall leave your Friends, that you died in clean Linen. You may sooner Convert a Jew, than to make an ordinary Dutchman yield to Arguments that cross him. A Old Bawd is easiler turned Saint, than a Waggoner persuaded not to bait thrice in nine Miles. And when he doth, his Horses must not stir, but have their Manger brought them into the way, where in a top sweat they eat their Grass, and drink their Water, and presently after hurry away: For they ever drive as if they were all the Sons of Nimshi, and were furiously either pursuing an Enemy, or flying him. They are seldom deceived, for they trust no Body; so by Consequence are better to hold a Fort, than win it; yet they can do both. Trust them you must if you Travel; For to ask a Bill of Particulars, is to purr in a Wasps Nest, you must pay what they ask, as sure as if it were the Assessment of a Subsidy. Compliments is an Idleness they were never trained up in, and 'tis their happiness, that Court Vanities have not stole away their minds from Business. Sailors among them are as common as Beggars with us. They can drink, rail, swear, etc. but examining their use, a mess of their Knaves are worth a Million of outs, for they, in a Boisterous Rudeness, can work, and live, and Toil, whereas ours will rather Laize themselves to Poverty, and like Cabbages left out in Winter, rot away in the Loathsomeness of a Nauseous Sloth. Most of them are Seamen born, and like Frogs can live both on Land and Water. Not a Country-Uriester but can handle an Oar, Steer a Boat, raise a Mast, and beat you out in the roughest Straits you come in. The Ship she avouches much better for Sleep than a bed. In their Families they all are equals, and you have no way to know the Master and Mistress but by taking them in Bed together. It may be those are they; Otherwise Malky can prate as much, laugh as loud, be as bold, and sit as well as her Mistress. Their Women would have good Faces if they did not mar them with making. Their Ear-Wyers have so nipped in their Cheeks, that you would think some Fairy, to do them a Mischief, had pinched them behind with tongs. These they dress, as if they would show you all their wit lay behind, and they needs would cover it. And thus ordered, they have much more for Head than Face. They love the English Gentry well; and when Soldiers come over to be billeted among them, they are emulous in choosing of their guest; who fares much the better for being liked by his Hostess. The habit of the Men is much after the Tarpaullian Fashion; their Breeches yawning at the Knees, as if they were about to swallow his Legs unmercifully. The Women are far from going naked, for of a whole Woman you can see but half a Face: As for her hand, that shows her a sore Labourer; which you shall ever find (as it were in Recompense) loaden with Rings to the cracking of her Fingers. Where the Woman lies in, the Ringle of the door does penance, and is lapped about with Linen, either to show you that loud knocking may wake the child, or else that for a month the Ring is not to be run at. But if the child be dead, there is thrust out a Nosegay tied to a sticks end; perhaps for an Emblem of the Life of Man, which may wither as soon as born; or else to let you know, that though these fade upon their gathering, yet from the same stock the next year a new shoot may spring. In short, they are a race of People diligent rather than Laborious; dull and slow of understanding, and so not dealt with by hasty words, but managed easily by soft and fair; and yielding to plain Reason, if you give them time to understand it. They know no other good, but the supply of what Nature requires, and the common increase of Wealth. They feed most upon Herbs, Roots, and Milks; and by that means, I suppose, neither their strength, nor Vigour, seems answerable to the size, Bulk, of their Bodies. Sect. V. Of the Nature of the Country in General, its Situation, etc. FOur of these Provinces. Viz. that of Holland, Zealand, Friezeland, and Gromingven, are seated upon the Sea, and make the strength and greatness of this State: The other three, with the Conquered Towns in Brabant, Flanders, and Cleve, make only the Outworks or Frontiers, serving chiefly for safety and Defence of these. The Soil of the whole Province of Holland is generally Flat, like the Sea in a calm, and looks as if, after a long contention, between Land and Water, which it should belong to: It had at length been divided between them: For to consider the great Rivers, and the strange number of Canals that are found in this Province, and do not only lead to every great Town, but almost to every Village; and the infinity of Sails that are seen every where coursing up and down upon them; One would imagine the Water to have shared with the Land; and the People that live in Boats, to hold some proportion with those that live in Houses. And this is one great advantage towards Trade, which is Natural to the Situation, and not to be attained in any Country, where there is not the same level and softness of Soil, which makes the cutting of Canals so easy work, as to be attempted almost by every private Man; and one Horse shall draw in a Boat, more than Fifty can do by Cart, whereas Carriage make a great part of the price in all heavy Commodities: And by this easy way of Travelling, an industrious Man loses no time from his Business, for he Writes, or Eats, or Sleeps, while he goes; whereas the time of Labouring or Industrious Men, is the greatest Native Commodity of any Country. There is, besides, one very great lake of Freshwater still remaining in this Province, by the Name of Harlem Maer, which might as they say, be easily drained; but the City of Leyden having no other way of refreshing their Town, or renewing the Water of their Canals, but from this Maer, will never consent to it. Another Advantage of their Situation of Trade, is made by those two great Rivers of the Rhine, and Mase, reaching up, and Navigable, so mighty a length, into so Rich and Populus Countries of the higher and lower Germany; which as it brings down all the Commodities from those parts to the Magazines in Holland, that vent them by their Shipping into all parts of the World, where the Market calls for them; so, with something more labour and time, it returns all the Merchandise of other Parts, into those Countries, that are seated upon these Streams, The Flatness of their Land exposes it to the danger of the Sea, and forces them to infinite charge, in the continual Fences and Repairs of their Banks to oppose it; which employ yearly more Men, than all the Corn of the Province of Holland could maintain. They have found the common Seaweed to be the best Material for these Digues, which fastens with a thin Mixture of Earth, yields a little to the force of the Sea, and returns when the Waves give back. The extreme moisture of the Air, I take to be the Occasion of the great Neatness in their Towns; for without the help of those Customs, their Country would not be habitable by such Crowds of People, but the Air would corrupt upon every hot season, and expose the Inhabitants to general and infectious Diseases, which they hardly escape three Summers together, especially about Leyden, where the Waters are not so easily renewed; and for this reason, I suppose, it is, that Leyden is found to be the neatest and cleanest kept of all their Towns. The same moisture of Air makes all Metals apt to rust, and Wood to mould; which forces them, by continual pains of rubbing and scouring, to seek a prevention or cure: This makes the brightness and cleanness that seems affected in their Houses, and is called Natural to them, by People who think no further. So the deepness of their Soil, and wetness of Seasons, which would render it unpassible, forces them not only to exactness of paving in their Streets, but to the expense of so long Cawsies between many of their Towns, and in their Highways; As indeed, most National Customs are the Effects of some unseen, or un-observed, Natural Causes or Necessities. The lowness and flatness of their Lands, make it in a great measure the Richness of their Soil, that is easily over-flowed every Winter, so as the whole Country, at that Season, seems to lie under Water, which in Spring, is driven out again by Mills. Sect. VI Of the People of Holland, their Manners, Humours and dispositions, etc. THe People of Holland may be divided into these several Classes: The Peasants or Boars, who cultivate the Land. The Mariners or Schippers, who supply their Ships. The Merchants, or Traders, who fill their Towns. The Renteeners, or Men that live in all their chief Cities upon the Rents, or Interests of Estates formerly acquired in their Families: And the Gentlemen, and Officers of their Armies. The First we have already treated off in a Sect by themselves, in regard of the giving a more particular Character of their Manners and Humours. The Second, The Mariners, are a plain People, but of a very rough Hue; whether from the Element they live in, or from their Food, which is generally Fish and Corn, and heartier than that of the Boars: They are Surly, and Ill-mannered, which is mistaken for Pride; but, I believe, is learned, as all manners are, by the conversation we use. Now theirs lying only among one another, or with Winds and Waves, which are not moved nor wrought upon by any Language, or Observance; or to be dealt with, but by Pains and by Patience; these are all the Qualities, their Mariners have learned; their Language is little more, than what is of necessary use to their Business; their Valour is of a size extraordinary even beyond comparison, except with that of the English Tarpaulin. The Merchants and Tradesmen, both the Greater and Mechanic, living in Towns that are of great resort, both by Strangers and Passengers of their own, are more Mercurial, (Wit being sharpened by Commerce and Conversation of Cities, though they are not very inventive, which is the gift of warmer Heads; yet are they great in imitation, and so far, many times, as goes beyond the Originals: Of mighty Industry, and constant Application to the ends they propose and pursue. They make use of their Skill, and their Wit, to take advantage of other men's Ignorance and Folly, they deal with: Are great Exacters, where the Law is in their own hands. In other points where they deal with Men that understand like themselves, and are under the reach of Justice and Laws, they are the plainest and best dealers in the World; which seems not to grow so much from a principle of Conscience, or Morality, as from a Custom or Habit introduced by the necessity of Trade among them, which depends as much upon common honesty, as War does upon Discipline; and without which, all would break; Merchants would turn Pedlars, and Soldiers Thiefs. Those Families which live upon their Patrimonial Estates in all the great Cities, are a people differently bred and mannered from the Traders, though like them in the modesty of Garb and Habit, and the parsimony of living. Their Youth are generally bred up at Schools, and at the Universities of Leyden, or Utretcht, in the common studies of Humane Learning, but chiefly of the civil law, which is that of their Country. Where these Families are Rich, their Youths, after a course of their Studies at home, travel for some years, as the sons of our Gentry use to do; but their Journeys are chiefly into England and France, not much into Italy, seldomer into Spain, nor often into the more Northern-Countries, unless in Company or train of their public Ministers. The chief end of their Breeding, is, to make them fit for the Service of their Country in the Magistracy of their Towns, their Provinces and their State. And of these kind of Men are the civil Officers of this Government generally composed, being descended of Families, who have many times been constantly in the Magistracy of their Native Towns for many years, and some for several Ages, and not Men of mean or Mechanic Trades, as it is commonly received among Foreigners, and makes the Subject of commical Jests upon their Government. This does not exclude many Merchants or Traders engross from being seen in the Offices of their Cities, and sometimes deputed to their Estates; nor several of their States from turning their Stocks in the management of some very beneficial Trade by Servants, and houses maintained to that purpose. The next Rank among them, is that of their Gentlemen or Nobles, who, in this Province of Holland are very few, most of the Families having been extinguished in the long Wars with Spain. But those that remain, are in a manner all employed in the Military or Civil Charges of the Province or State. These are, in their Customs and Manners, much different from the rest of the people; and having been bred much abroad, rather effect the Garb of of their Neighbour Courts, than the popular Air of their own Country. They strive to imitate the French in their Mien, their clothes, their way of Talk, of Eating, of Gallantry, or Debauchery. They are otherwise an Honest, Well-natured, Friendly, and Gentlemanly sort of Men, and acquit themselves generally with Honour and Merit, where their Country employs them. The Officers of their Armies live after the Custom, and Fashions of the Gentlemen. These are some Customs, or Dispositions, that seem to run generally through all degrees of Men among them; as great Frugality, and Order, in their Expenses. Their common Riches lie in every man's spending less than he has coming in, be that what it will: Nor does it enter into men's heads among them, that the common part or course of Expense should equal the Revenue; and when this happens, they think at least they have lived that year to no purpose; and the train of it discredits a man among them, as much as any Vicious or Prodigal Extravagance does in other Countries. This enables every man to bear their extreme Taxes, and makes them less sensible than they would be in other places, especially in England: For he that lives upon two parts in five of what he has coming in; if he pays two more to the State, he does but part with what he should have laid up, and had no present use for; whereas, he that spends yearly what he receives, if he pays but the fiftieth part to the Public, it goes from him like that which was necessary to buy bread or Clothes for himself or his Family. This makes the Beauty and strength of their Towns, the commodiousness of travelling in their Country by their Canals, Bridges, and Cawseys; the pleasantness of their Walks, and their Grafts in and near all their Cities; and in short, the Beauty, Convenience, and sometimes Magnificence of their public Works, to which every Man pays as willingly, and takes as much pleasure, and vanity in them, as those of other Countries do in the same circumstances, among the possessions of their Families or private Inheritance. To conclude this Section: Holland is a Country, where the Earth is better than the Air, and profit more in Request than Honour; where there is more sense than wit; more good nature than good humour; and more wealth than pleasure; where a man would choose rather to Travel, than to live; shall find more things to observe than desire; and more Persons to esteem than to love. But the same Qualities and Dispositions do not Value a private Man and a State, nor make a conversation agreeable, and a Government great: Nor is it unlikely, that some very great King might make but a very ordinary private-Gentleman, and some very extraordinary Gentlemen, might be capable of making but a very mean Prince. Sect. VII. Of their Religion, the Number of Sects among the People, Particularly in Amsterdam. THe great care of this State has ever been to Favour no particular or curious Inquisition into the Faith or Religious Principles of any peaceable Man, who came to live under the protection of their Laws, and to suffer no Violence or Oppression upon any Man's conscience, whose Opinions broke not out into Expressions or Actions of ill consequence to the State. A free form of Government, either making way for more freedom in Religion; or else, having contended so far themselves for Liberty in this point, they thought it the more unreasonable for them to oppress others. The Roman Catholic Religion was alone excepted from the common protection of their Laws, making men (as the Lawmakers believed) worse Subjects than the rest, by the acknowledgement of a Foreign, and Superior Jurisdiction: Yet such has been the care of this State, to give all men ease in this point, who ask no more than to serve God, and save their own Souls, in their own Way and Forms; that what was not provided for by the constitutions of their Government, was so, in a very great degree, by the connivance of their Officers, who, upon certain constant payments from every Family, suffer the exercise of the Roman Catholic Religion in their several Jurisdictions, as free and easy, tho' not so cheap, and so avowed, as the rest. This, I suppose, has been the reason, that tho' those of this profession are very numerous in the Country, among the Peasants, and considerable in the Cities; and not admitted to any public charges; yet they seem to be a sound piece of the State, and fast jointed in with the rest; and have neither given any disturbance to the Government nor expressed any Inclinations to a change, or to any Foreign Power. Of all other Religions, every Man enjoys the free exercise in his own Chamber, or his own House, unquestioned, and unspyed: And if the Followers of any Sect grow so numerous in any place, that they affect a public Congregation, and are content to purchase a place of Assembly, to bear the charge of a Pastor, or Teacher, and to pay for this Liberty to the Public; they go and propose their desire to the Magistrate of the place where they reside, who inform themselves of their Opinions, and Manners of Worship; and if they find nothing in either, destructive to civil Society, or prejudicial to the Constitutions of their State, and content themselves with the price that is offered for the purchase of this Liberty, they easily allow it; but with the condition, that one or more Commissioners shall be appointed, who shall have free Admission at all their Meetings, shall be both the Observers and Witnesses of all that is Acted or Preached among them, and whose Testimony shall be received concerning any thing that passes there, to the prejudice of the State; in which case, the Laws and Executions are as severe as against any civil Crimes. Thus the Jews have their allowed Synagogues in Amsterdam, and Rotterdam; and in the first, I think all Sects, that are known among Christians, have there public Meeting-places: and some, whose Names are almost worn out in other parts, as the Brownists, Familists, and others. The Arminians, though they make a great Name among them, by being rather the distinction of a Party in the State, than a Sect in the Church; yet are, in comparison of others, but few in Number, tho' considerable by the Persons, who are of the better quality, the more learned and intelligent Men; and many of them in the Government. The Anabaptists are just the contrary, very numerous, but in the Lower Ranks of People, Mechanics and Seamen, and abound chiefly in North Holland. The Calvinists make the Body of the People, and are possessed of all the public Churches in the Dominions of the State, as well as of the only Ministers or Pastors, who are maintained by the Public. It's hardly to be imagined, how all the Violence and Sharpness, which Accompanies the differences of Religion in other Countries, seems to be appeased or softened here, by the general freedom which all men enjoy, either by Allowance or Connivance. I believe the force of Commerce, Alliances, and Acquaintance, spreading so far as they do in small circuits (such as the Province of Holland) may contribute much to make conversation, and all the Offices of common life, so easy, among so different Opinions, of which so many several persons are often in every Man's eye; and no man checks or takes offence at Faces, or Customs, or Ceremonies, he sees every day, as at those he hears of in places far distant, and perhaps by partial relations, and comes to see late in his life, and after he has long been possessed by passion or prejudice against them. However it is, Religion may possibly do more good in other places, but it does less hurt here; and wherever the invisible effects of it are the greatest and most advantageous, I am sure, the visible are so in this Country, by the continual and undisturbed civil Peace of their Government, for so long a course of years; And by so mighty an increase of their People, wherein will appear to consist chiefly the vast growth of their Trade and Riches, and consequently the strength and greatness of their State. Sect. VIII. Of their Way of Trade, and Manner of Increase in Wealth. 'TIs evident to those, who have read the most, and travelled farthest, that no Country can be found either in this present Age, or upon Record of any Story, where so vast a Trade has been managed, as in the narrow compass of the four Maritine Provinces of this Commonwealth: Nay it is generally esteemed, that they have more Shipping belongs to them, than there does to the far greater part of Europe besides. Yet they have no Native Commodities towards the Building, or Rigging of the smallest Vessel; their Flax, Hemp, Pitch, Wood, and Iron, coming all from a broad, as Wool does for clothing their Men, and Corn for feeding them. Nor do I know any thing properly of their own growth, that is considerable, either for their own necessary use, or for Traffic with their Neighbours, besides Butter, Cheese, and Earthen Wares. For Havens, they have not any good upon their whole Coast: The best are Helversluys, which has no Trade at all; and Flushingue, which has little, in comparison of other Towns in Holland: But Amsterdam that Triumphs in the spoils of Lisbon and Antwerp, (which before Engrossed the greatest Trade of Europe and the India's) seems to be the most incommodious Haven they have, being seated upon so shallow Waters, that ordinary Ships cannot come up to it without the advantage of Tides; nor great ones without unlading. The entrance of the Tessel, and passages over the Zudder-Sea, is more dangerous, than a Voyage from thence to Spain, lying all in blind and narrow channels; so that it easily appears, that 'tis not an Haven that draws Trade, but Trade that fills an Haven, and brings it in Vogue. Nor has Holland grown rich by any Native Commodities, but by force of Industry; by Improvement and Manufacture of all Foreign Growths; by being the general Magazine of Europe, and furnishing all parts with whatever the Market wants or invites; and by their Seamen, being, as they have properly been called, the common Garriers of the World. It appears to every Man's eye who hath Travelled Holland, and observed the Number and Vicinity of their great and populus Towns and Villages, with the prodigious improvement of almost every Spot of ground in the Country, and the great multitudes constantly employed in their Shipping abroad, and their Boats at home, that no other known Country in the World, of the same extent, hold any proportion with this in the Numbers of People; and if that be the great Foundation of Trade, the best account that can be given of theirs, will be, by considering the causes and accidents, that have served to force and invite so vast a confluence of People into their Country; the civil Wars, Calamities, Persecutions, Oppressions or Discontents, that have been so fatal to most of their Neighbours for some time before, as well as since their State began. Sect. IX. Of their Military Forces by Sea and Land, with their State Revenues. THe Force of these Provinces is to be measured, not by the Number or Dispositions of their Subjects, but by the strength of their Shipping, and standing Troops, which they constantly maintain, even in time of peace; and by the Numbers of both, which they have been able to draw into the Field, and to Sea for support of a War: By their constant Revenue to maintain the first; and by the temporary charge, they have been able to furnish for supply of the other. The ordinary Revenue of this State, consists, either in what is levied in the conquered Towns, and Country of Brabant, Flanders, or the Rhine; which is wholly administered by the Council of State: Or else the ordinary Funds, which the seven Provinces provide every Year, according to their several proportions, upon the petition of the Council of State, and the computation of the charge of the ensuing year, given in by them to the State's General. And this Revenue, in times of Peace, commonly amounts to about One and Twenty Millions of Gilders a Year. Their standing Land Forces in time of Peace, consist of Thirty Thousand Horse and Foot. Their Admiralities, in time of Peace, maintain between Thirty and Forty Men of War, employed in the several Convoys of their Merchant's Fleets, in a squadron of Eight or Ten Ships, to attend the Algerines, and other Corsaires in the Mediterranean; and some always lying ready in their Havens for any sudden accidents or occasions of the State. FINIS. Licenced March 28th. 1691.