A NEW VOYAGE TO ITALY  
Printed for R. Bentley, M. Wootton, T. Goodwin, and S. Manship.    

A New Voyage TO ITALY: With a Description of the Chief Towns, Churches, Tombs, Libraries, Palaces, Statues, and Antiquities of that Country.  
Together with Useful INSTRUCTIONS for those who shall Travel thither.  
By MAXIMILIAN MISSON, Gent.  
Done into English, and adorned with FIGURES.  
In Two Volumes.  
Vol. I.  
LONDON, Printed for R. Bently, at the Posthouse in Russel-street, Covent-Garden; M. Gillyflower, at the Spread-Eagle in Westminster-Hall; T. Goodwin, at the Queen's-Head, and M. Wotton, at the Three Daggers in Fleetstreet; and S. Manship, at the Ship in Cornhill, 1695.   

To the Honourable Charles Butler, Cornet of the First Troop of GUARDS.  
SIR,  
THE only Consideration that engaged me to Publish this Work, was my Desire to please You, and to secure that Interest in Your Goodness, with which You are pleased to Honour me. I confess my Resolution was a little shocked, when I reflected on the Dangers and Discouragements to which an Author exposes himself, by appearing in so Nice and Knowing an Age: But my Reluctancy was quickly overcome by the sense I had of my Obligation to give You this Mark of my Acknowledgement and Respect.  
When His Grace the DUKE of ORMOND, Your Grandfather, did me the Honour to commit the Care of Your Education to me, I laboured with all the Application I was capable of, to discharge that great Trust with suitable Diligence and Fidelity: And, to speak only of Your Travels, I may say without Vanity, that I was very careful to make You receive all that Pleasure and Advantage You might desire or expect from 'em. My present Attempt is but a Continuation of my former Care: My chief Design in the Publication of these Letters being to refresh and preserve the Ideas of what You then observed, and to make that Satisfaction lasting, which, perhaps, Time would have insensibly destroyed.  
I hope, SIR, You will receive favourably this Effect of my Zeal and Affection to Your Service. If You were as severe a Critic, as You are an exact Judge, I might justly despair of pleasing You: But all my Fears vanish when I reflect on that peculiar Sweetness of Temper, and that Natural Inclination You have to consider Things on the most Advantageous side. This Thought inspires me with so much Confidence, that nothing less than Your Modesty, could over-awe me, and restrain the Impetuosity of my Desires. I would give You all the Praises You deserve, and think myself obliged to take this Occasion to proclaim the Generosity, Probity, Courage, Moderation, and all the other Virtues which I have so often admired in You, if I were not sensible that I could not do You Justice without offending You.  
And therefore all that I shall say on so alluring a Subject is, That those admirable Perfections are a part of Your Heritage, as being inseparably united to the Illustrious Blood that fills Your Veins. True Nobility, and Greatness of Mind have been always entailed on Your Family. The Reputation of His Grace the late DUKE of ORMOND is spread over all Europe, in the most Glorious manner imaginable. And the EARL of OSSORY, Your Father, applied himself with equal Care and Success to the Imitation of so Noble a Pattern: That Great Captain was at once the Terror of His Prince's Enemies, the Joy and Love of the People, the Delight of the Court, and Admiration of Strangers. The Honour which I had in Your Company, to approach several Sovereign Princes, gave me the Opportunity to learn from their own Mouths, how highly they esteemed him, and with how sensible an Affliction they received the News of the untimely Period of so bright a Life. His Grace the DUKE of ORMOND Your Brother, is, with You, SIR, the Worthy Successor of those Hero's. You are both unwearied Pursuers of Glory, and You lose no Opportunity to signalise Your Valour and Conduct. I offer up the most ardent Prayers for Your Common Prosperity; and I entreat You to believe that I shall always remain with an unalterable Passion, and profound Respect,  
SIR, Your most Humble, and Obedient Servant, Maximilian Misson. London, Jan. 1. 1691.   

THE AUTHOR's PREFACE.  
WHEN I undertook the Voyage described in the following Letters, I resolved to keep an exact Journal of the most remarkable Things that should fall under my Observation; and some of my Friends having engaged me to communicate my Remarks to 'em, from time to time, my intended Journal was insensibly changed to Letters.  
I will not trouble the Reader with an Account of the Reasons that oblige me to suffer this little Work to appear in Public: But, perhaps, it will not be improper to inform him, why I thought fit to send it abroad in its Native Dress. The Style of the Letters is Concise, Free, and Familiar, and in all respects most suitable to my Design. When an Author undertakes to give a particular Description of the Subject on which he writes, he is obliged to acquaint his Reader with all its Circumstances, and to omit nothing that relates to it. But there is a very wide difference between an exact Description of a Country, and a brief Account of it in a Letter.  
So that if it be Objected, that I have forgot to mention several things that deserved to be taken notice of, I shall content myself with making this short Reply, that, He who Promises nothing, cannot be justly accused of Forgetting any thing. These are familiar Letters, in which I do not in the least oblige myself to insert all that might be said of the Places mentioned in 'em: Only I relate what I have seen, or heard, from Persons of unquestioned Credit; and what, in my Opinion, deserves to be communicated to the Public.  
If it be further pretended, that I treat of some things which were generally known before; I answer, That if all those who repeat the Observations of others must be condemned without Mercy, by the same Sentence most Books that are extant, must be doomed to the Fire: For the new Discoveries of a whole Age would scarce fill a small Volume. Every Man has a different way of expressing his Thoughts, and of representing the Subjects of which he treats; which makes 'em in a manner different from themselves, when described by another, and gives a right to each particular Person to make new Reflections on 'em. But not to insist on that Plea; The Reader of these Letters will find an Account of those Things that happened in my Time, and of some late Alterations, which I cannot be supposed to have borrowed from those who wrote before me: And, in the general, I see no reason why the Book, which I now offer to the Public, may not justly claim the Title of a New Work, and I'm confident, it will be acknowledged as such, by all unprejudiced Persons, who shall consider either that I have added several remarkable Circumstances, or established Ideas that I found to be juster, and more exact than those I had received from the Relations of others; or, to add no other Considerations, that I have given a new Turn of Expression to such things as were already described. And tho' I could not wholly omit some Passages that had been formerly taken notice of by other Authors, without spoiling the Connexion of the Parts of my Work, and depriving the future Traveller of part of the Advantage which I hope he may receive from my Labours; yet, upon a careful Examination, it will be found that many of my Observations are in all respects New and Uncommon.  
I could not leave the Places through which I passed on the Road, without examining and enquiring into the most remarkable Things that were to be found in 'em, and without giving some account of 'em in my Letters. But since the main Design of our Voyage was to see Italy; and since I have chief insisted on the Description of that Country, I thought fit to give that Title to the whole Work, which agrees properly to the principal part of it.  
Of those who travel into Italy, some make it their only business to inquire after its Antiquities; and others apply themselves wholly to the study of Painting and Architecture: There are some who mind nothing but Libraries, and Cabinets of Curiosities; and others spend their time in visiting Churches and Relics. But my Curiosity was more Universal, and would not suffer me to confine my Inquiries to one Subject; which gives my Letters the advantage of Variety, and at least in this respect, I hope they will not seem unpleasant to the generality of Readers.  
When I found myself under an almost indispensable necessity to consent to the Publication of this Work, I thought myself obliged to make it useful to those who shall afterwards undertake the same Voyage: And therefore I have inserted several Passages in those Letters, which I did not think fit to mention, when they were only directed to two or three Friends: And, in pursuance of the same Design, I have subjoined an Appendix at the end of the Book, containing Advice or Instructions to a Traveller.  
To satisfy the importunate desires of those with whom I entertained a Correspondence during my Travels, I was forced to give 'em an account of every thing I observed, without omitting even the smallest and least considerable Remarks. But since the Curiosity of most Readers extends not so far, I was soon persuaded to obey those who advised me to cut off several Passages in my Letters, which perhaps would have been esteemed Impertinent or Trifling. For those who have the Happiness to be Masters of an Universal Wit, and of an equally solid and nice Judgement, are capable of making Advantage of every thing, and are usually sooner pleased than those who are less beholding to Nature for the liberal Distribution of her Favours. If it be still urged, that I have left several Passages which might have been cut off with the rest, I must beg leave to tell those pretended Critics, that They are very much mistaken if they imagine that nothing ought to be admitted into Works of this Nature, but what is great and important. These are neither Sermons, nor Negotiations of Ambassadors; and that which might be justly called a Trifle in a Discourse upon a lofty Subject, deserves another Title in such a Relation as this, and especially in a Letter. Besides, there are some mean and seemingly trifling Things, which, for all their meanness, are yet very pleasant and diverting. The Public has received some Relations very favourably, which take notice of the smallest Circumstances, not forgetting even the Signs of Taverns; neither indeed is it just to oblige a Traveller to relate nothing but Prodigies. 'Tis true, he ought not to fill his Journal with insipid Observations; but there is hardly any thing on which an exact and ingenious Person is not capable of making Reflections.  
I have observed, that those who speak of Italy are usually full of Prejudices, which are extremely to the Advantage of that Country. Most Young Travellers being persuaded that they shall find there an infinite Number of surprising Rarities, go thither with a Resolution to admire every thing they see. And all the Relations we have of it, seem to have been designed for Panegyrics. The Fame of that part of the World has been raised so high, and so strongly established, that 'tis esteemed an unpardonable Crime to lessen its Reputation. The Grandeur, for Example, and the almost infinite Magnificence of the celebrated City of Rome, with the ancient Charms of Bayae and Capua, inspire the generality of Mankind with a Veneration for a few pieces of Marble, which are the only Remainders of their Ruins; tho' 'tis certain that those Places, if we consider 'em in their present Condition, are not at all preferable to a vast Number of others, which are not so much as taken notice of in the World. But there is also another Reason, which doubtless contributes very much to confirm Travellers in their Prejudices; and that is, the usual manner in which the Italians speak of their Country. 'Tis certain, that the People of that Nation have so much Fire in their Imagination, and their Phrases are naturally so strong and significative, that they are oftentimes apt to speak of Things with too much Force. 'Tis true, they have many soft and pleasant, not to say Apish and Childish Expressions; but when they change their Style, they are apt to run to the other extremity, and, on a sudden, lose themselves in wild and unnatural Hyperboles. This Humour of the Italians by degrees infects some of those Strangers who reside among 'em, and in conjunction with their former Prejudices, prompts 'em to make long and lofty Discourses, on the most inconsiderable Subjects. The Observation of those Miscarriages in others, made me very careful to avoid falling into the same Errors: I examined things coolly, and suffered those perpetual Admirers to evaporate in sublime Figures, and Exclamations of Wonder, without regarding their pompous and superlative Expressions. But tho' I had not the Complaisance to admire every thing which they extolled, I hope I shall not have the Misfortune to be accused of being possessed with a Prejudice, opposite to that which I blame in others; for the equitable Reader will easily perceive, that I take Pleasure to do justice to those things which I think deserve Praise.  
I wrote these Letters without consulting the Authors who have treated of the same Subject before me: For besides that the hurry of Travelling made such a Design impracticable, I could not have received much benefit by it, since, as I intimated before, I intended only to relate what I saw, or learned, without engaging in a particular and exact Description of the Country. I thought fit to make this ingenuous Declaration, That if any Passages in this Work be found to be inconsistent with the Relations of others, I may not be accused of taking Pleasure to contradict 'em; for I only give a sincere and natural Account of my own Observations, or of what I heard from Persons of unsuspected Credit, without the least Design to offend any Man whatsoever.  
I hope every candid Reader will make a Distinction between those things which I affirm positively, and those which are ushered in with a 'Tis said; tho' even in these Cases I have related nothing but what is grounded on the general Opinion, and was never contradicted by any with whom I have had occasion to converse: For, after all, I would not be obliged to warrant the Truth of these common Reports, which are oftentimes found to be common Lies.  
To avoid the Confusion occasioned by the various length of Leagues and Miles in Germany; I usually express the distance of Places by the Number of Hours that are commonly spent in travelling between 'em; and if at any time I make use of the Word League, I understand an Hour's Journey. The Italian Miles are generally known, and need no explication; only the Reader may take notice, That Two Miles in Piedmont make almost Three, after the ordinary way of reckoning; and that the Miles of Lombardy are the shortest of all. I shall only add, That when I measure any Distance by a certain number of Paces, I mean the Steps I usually make in Walking,   

ADVERTISEMENT. Some BOOKS newly Published.  

THe Present State of Persia: With a faithful Account of the Manners, Religion, and Government of that People. By Monsieur Sanson, a Missionary from the French King. Adorned with Figures.  
The Present State of the Empire of Morocco: With a faithful Account of the Manners, Religion, and Government of that People. By Monsieur de St. Olon, Ambassador there in the Year 1693. Adorned with Figures.  
Letters written by a French Gentleman: Giving a faithful and particular Account of the Transactions of the Court of France, relating to the Public Interest of Europe. With Historical and Political Reflections on the ancient and present State of that Kingdom. Communicated by the famous Monsieur Vassor.  
The Roman History, from the Building of the City, to the perfect Settlement of the Empire by Augustus Caesar, containing the space of 727 Years. Designed as well for the understanding of the Roman Authors, as the Roman Affairs. By Laurence Echard, A. M. of Christ-College in Cambridge.  
The Life of the Famous Cardinal-Duke de Richlieu, Principal Minister of State to Lewis XIII. King of France and Navarr. In Two Volumes.    

A NEW VOYAGE TO ITALY. A. M. D. W.  

LETTER I.  
SIR,  
HOLLAND is a Country so near and so well known to yours, that I should, perhaps, have said nothing of it, had not your express Commands obliged me to it; in compliance therefore with your desires, I will endeavour to give you an Idea of this rare Country, with a particular Account of the Cities I saw there. As to the rest, Holland hath so many particulars worth your Observation and View, that I think it impossible you should decline making a Voyage thither: The Passage over is but short, and you will have a thousand opportunities to render it convenient. But being persuaded, that you will not fail, one day, to satisfy so reasonable a Curiosity, I shall not entertain you so largely as I might, with an account of those charming Provinces, wherein I have formerly, for a long time, sojourned.  
We observed, from our Vessel, as we approached these Coasts, that the nearer we came, we perceived the tops of the Trees, and the summits of the Steeples, as if they issued out of a Land sunk under Water. In short, Holland is universally flat and low, like one continued Meadow. 'Tis cut into Canals, and large Ditches, to receive and drain the Waters, which otherwise would soak the Lands like drunken Toasts; there are but few Places that can be Cultivated. A Country like this is not naturally Habitable; yet, Industry, constant Labour, and the Love of Profit, have brought it into such a State, that there is not in the World, one so Rich, and so well Peopled, proportionably to its extent 
* Pufendorf. Others pretend that the Seven Provinces together do not contain more than Two Millions of Inhabitants. It is difficult for a private Person to learn the certainty of those kind of things. See Vossius. : Some do not stick to aver, that this little Province alone, includes more than Two Millions and Five Hundred Thousand Souls.  
The Cities are as it were 
† The United Provinces have one City of the first Rank, viz. Amsterdam. Above twenty of the second Rank, which may compare with the great Cities of France, after Paris. More than Thirty of the third, which equal Parma and Modena. Above two hundred great Towns, and more than eight hundred Villages. G. L.  linked together, and we may say that they are all of a sparkling Beauty. The more we consider them, the more agreeable we find them. 
* There is no less curiosity and neatness in their Ships than in their Houses. This Cleanliness extends throughout: You may find it in the Stables, where the Cow's Tales are tied up with a little Cord to the Roof, lest they should defile themselves. They wash all, and scour all the Walls, Movables, and Utensils of Householdstuff.  Great care is taken to keep their Houses neat and fine, both within and without, they Wash them, and Paint the very Bricks over, from time to time; so that they always look new. The Doors and the Cross-bars are commonly revested with hewn Stone or Marble; the inside of the Shops, and lower Rooms, even with the common Tradesmen, are also commonly lined with square Tiles. The Glass-Windows all shine like Crystal; every Window hath its Shutters, which are commonly painted red or green, and make altogether a mixture most pleasant to the sight.  
The Streets are so clean, that the Women walk abroad in Slippers all the Year. The Canals every where are adorned with two rows of Trees, which make a delightful Shade, and a delicate Walk on each side the Streets. You have here almost a general Idea not only of the Cities, but also of the Towns and Villages, for the same Order and Neatness is to be seen throughout.  
The most usual way of Travelling, is by the Canals, and nothing is so convenient. The Boats are drawn by Horses, and they go off at set hours. You are therein conveniently seated, against Storms of Rain or Wind: So that you change the Country, without knowing almost that you are out of the House. When the Canals are Frozen, the Skates and the Sledges— are instead of the Boats; and this new way of Travelling is a second Pleasure. Those who slide skilfully on Skates will outrun the Post-Horses, some will undertake to go a League in ten Minutes. Thus you see how commodious their Canals are, but this is not all the convenience they receive, by the drain of their Waters; they are also useful for Traffic, and transport of Goods as well as Men. The Earth which they take out, raiseth the Banks, and makes the ways more fit for Footmen; they serve both for Enclosure and Ornament. In some Places they have plenty of Fish.  
Abundance of things are naturally wanting in Holland: But Foreign Countries plentifully supply them with Corn, as well as Wines and all other Necessaries for Life. All the World knows how far their Trade extends: And it may well be said, that as it in part gave the original Strength to the State, so it is still its principal or only support. Every Man in Holland is a kind of Amphibious Creature, equally accustomed both to Sea and Land. I remember I have read it in a good Author: That this sole Province hath more 
† The number of Vessels in the common Opinion is esteemed so great, that it is thought to equal all the rest of Europe together. Card. Bentivoglio. Pufendorf saith the same, and others have writ that the United Provinces have as many Ships as Houses. I cannot think any Person hath exactly Calculated them, every one speaks as he imagines, or hath heard, so that little heed is to be given to Discourses of this nature.  Shipping than all the rest of Europe.  
It is true, that if on one side the Sea is the cause of all the Riches of Holland, it must also be confessed, that it hath sometimes caused terrible Damages. It is stopped with Banks of Earth, which we call Dams, and all care imaginable is taken to maintain them. They have Mills to empty the Water, and use all imaginable Industry to prevent Mischief, or to remedy it when it hath happened. Yet some places of these Banks are often broken, and the rolling of the Waves makes most furious Ravages. So that as to the 
* On the 17th of April, 1420. one hundred thousand People were drowned at Dort, or thereabouts. There were fifteen Parishes drowned. Seb. Munster. The Sea carried away 121 Houses of the Villages of Scheveling, and 1574. (S. Parival) at this day the Church is near the Sea, whereas formerly it was in the midst of the Village.  Sea, they may well use the Device of a Torch Reversed. That which feeds me kills me. This, Sir, is the fatal Mischief of Holland, a strange inconveniency, of which all that can be said is, That they labour to help it as much as they can; but can never restore the drowned Cities, nor the lives of many Millions of Men who have, from time to time, perished by these Deluges.  
It is not without some regret that I disturb your former and more pleasing Ideas; but I fancy that to apprehend things well, we must know both what's for, and what's against them. Nor is this the only defect. For the Air is not where very good. Sometimes in the fairest Wether it suddenly becomes Cold, and this inequality admits of no great difference between the Summer and Winter . 
† The Gabel of Salt is the least considerable; Salt costs but two Pence or three Pence the Pound, of sixteen Ounces. The greatest Imports are on Wine, Beer, and Corn.  The Impositions are great, which partly cause the dearness of Victuals: But the People of this Country who are born under the Yoke, and whom their great Trade hath made live at ease, scarce think of it. I confess I should not long admire those continued Meadows of which Holland is composed: They seem very fine for a few hours, but one grows weary of their perpetual uniformity. And I am persuaded the variety of your Province of Kent, must be far more grateful.  
We were at the same time surprised and charmed at the first thing which we observed at our arrival at Rotterdam. This City having this singular Qualification, that many of its Canals are broad and deep enough to receive the greatest Vessels, nothing can compare with the effect produced by the extraordinary mixture of Chimneys, tops of Trees, and Streamers of Vessels. One is astonished at the Port to behold so rare a confusion, as is that of the tops of the Houses and Trees, and Pennons of the Masts, one cannot tell whether it be a Fleet, a City, or a Forest, at least one sees a thing seldom heard of, a Convention of those three things, the Sea, the City, and the Campagne.  

ROTTERDAM.  Rotterdam is not accounted as one of the Principal Cities of the Province, because it hath not been always in such a flourishing condition as we see it at this day; but without doubt it ought to be the second of the first Rank, whereas now it is but the first of the second. It's Port is most commodious and fair, and is always filled and encompassed with Shipping, and its Trade increases daily. It is very large, well Peopled, rich and pleasant, and hath the neatness I have represented; the situation is flat, as you are to suppose of the rest of the Cities.  
The Magazines for the equipping of Ships. The Townhouse, and that of the Bank, are all most stately Structures. When you come into the Glass-house, you see them at work on little enameled Bowls, and I know not how many Child's Baubles, with which they drive a great Trade amongst the Savages. Also near this you have the curious Works in Paper of the Sieur Van Uliet, as Ships, Palaces, and whole Landscapes in Basso relievo, all as they say done and made out with the point of a Penknife.  
There are at present two French Churches at Rotterdam; which the Magistrates take care particularly to see furnished with Ministers of exemplary Merit. It is certain, that this City is become famous for its Learned Men, as well as by its Trade and Beauty. It is this which bestowed on us, the Novels of the Republic of Learning, a work so accepted and esteemed: I might even say, a Work which is ready to be lamented, since the Indisposition of the Author gives us reason to fear; he will be no more able to apply himself to so painful an undertaking; I am informed that Mr. Basnage de Beauval intends the continuation. He is endowed with a great deal of Learning, an extraordinary Wit, and all the sharpness which can be thought necessary for the well-ordering such a Work.  

Erasmus was born in Rotterdam, Octob. 27. 1467. he died at Basil, June 12. 1536. They erected a Statue of Wood, An. 1540 one of Stone, Anno 1557. and at last that of Brass, which is seen this day, Anno 1622.  The brazen Statue of Erasmus is in the Place called the great Bridge. This Statue is on a Pedestal of Marble, encompassed with Rails of Iron. Erasmus is in a Doctor's Habit, with a Book in his Hand. Hard by you may see the House in which he was born, it is a very little one, having this Distich wrote on the door.  Aedibus his Ortus, Mundum decoravit Erasmus Artibus ingenuis, Relligione, Fide. 
Being for some Reasons induced to visit a Village called Leckerkeck, three Leagues distant from hence, upon the River Leck, I will impart to you three or four curious things which I observed there.  
The Lord of the Place told us, That the Salmon Fishing, the fifth part whereof only belongs to him, yielded him formerly twenty thousand Francs per annum, and ofttimes more. And that the Salmon having left it by degrees, that Revenue is so strangely diminished, that it scarcely defrays the Charge of the Fishery in many Years, so that he had given it over, only lying under a necessity to maintain the Right. Formerly also the Salmon spawned before Dordretcht in such multitudes that the Maid-Servants of that City, made their Bargains not to be compelled to eat it above twice in the Week, but at present they are rid of that trouble.  
We went to see a Country Woman there, who last Year was brought to Bed of Six Sons, there were four of them Baptised, the Eldest of which lived four Months.  
A Maid of the same Village carried a Musket Seven Years, without being discovered what she was. She went always by the name de la Bonto, which Name she was Mustered by, and at present she is a Maid-Servant in the House of the Lord of that Place.  
Some Years since died in this place, Gueret Bastiense, a Fisherman, who was eight Foot high, and weighed 500 Weight, though he was very lean. We were in his House, the Doors whereof are very high, where they showed us many of his  and Things.  
The Post hour obliges me here to finish this Letter; be persuaded, Sir, that I will omit nothing which I believe proper for your satisfaction. And if Time shall not permit me to particularise many things, assure yourself my accounts shall be without Partiality, after I have got an exact Information. I am,  
SIR, Yours, etc. At Rotterdam, Octob. 6. 1687. New-Stile.   

LETTER II.  
SIR,  

DELFE.  WE came from Rotterdam to Delfe in less than two hours, by the Rotterdam Boat. Delfe holds the third Rank in the Assembly of the States of Holland. I will give you no other Description than what I have told you of the Cities in general, the Idea whereof you must always call to mind. One of the principal Things which they show to Strangers, is the Tomb of Prince William, who was 
* By Balthasar Gerard, or Serach of the Franc County, Anno 1584. the Prince 52 Years old.  Assassinated in this City 
† You may also see the Palace of the State-holder, the Grand Place, and the great Hospital with the Garden. . The Arsenal and the Townhouse are the principal things whicy they show to Strangers. It is but a good League from Delfe to the Hague, following the course of the Canal. You pass not far from Riswick and the Voorburg, which are very pleasant Villages, all there is full of Houses of Pleasure, Walks, and delightful Gardens.  

HAGUE.  Although the Hague hath the Privileges of a City, yet is it put in the Rank of the Boroughs, because it is Walled: And it sends no Deputies to the State's General. Yet we may say, that its Grandeur and Beauty deserve as much Honour as the best Cities.  

* At present King of Engl.  The Prince of Orange resides there, and his Court is very fine. The State's General are there 
† You may see the place of this Assembly, and the other Hall where the States of Holland meet.  Assembled. The Ambassadors and other Ministers of Foreign Princes have there their Residence. The People are more civil and sociable than in other places. Travellers sojourn here. The Coaches are numerous. The Houses and Walks are very fine. The Air is perfectly good. In a word, 'tis most certain the Hague is an Enchanting place. The Wood is one of its chief Ornaments: For as I told you the other day, it tires one to see nothing but near Objects: To walk in a Wood in Holland affords double refreshment. For you have also the Walk by the Sea side to the Village of Scheveling, 
Between the Hague and Scheveling is a House of Pleasure, belonging to the Earl of Portland.  whither you go in a good half hour, by a straight Pathway cut cross the Downs. There is a good Fishery at Scheveling. There you may see a Chariot with Wheels and Sails, which the Wind drives on the Sand of the Seashore, which is both hard and even.  
The Sieur Resner, a Gentleman of Zealand, who dwells at the Hague, hath a Cabinet, where, amongst other things, you may see a great number of very curious Shells.  
The situation of the Hague highly deserves distinction from all the rest of Holland, because of the variety of its Landscape: For it hath the Wood on the North, the Meadow on the South, some Arable Lands Eastward, and the Sea to the West.  
It's Trade is inconsiderable, in respect of the Cities which have Havens, or great Manufactures yet good store of business is there transacted: Besides, there are many rich and noble Families, which live on their Revenues or Employs in the Army or Court.  
This great concourse of Persons of Quality, is the cause that it is always furnished with Masters, requisite for the Instruction of young Gentlemen in all sorts of Exercises. The Academy beyond all is of great Reputation. There is one of the finest riding Houses I ever beheld, and the Rider is a very skilful and honest Man.  
The Prince of Orange is lodged 
* The Chapel of this Palace now is made use of for the French Church.  in the Palace of the ancient Earls of Holland. To speak truth, this Palace hath nothing in it extraordinary: That which is called the Old Court, where the Princes of Orange formerly dwelled, is the most regular building. 
† In the Neighbourhood of the Hague is the Honflerdyke, the House of the Wood, and the Garden of Mr. De St. Anneland.  The Houses of Pleasure are tightly beautiful.  
We had the Curiosity to go on purpose to the Village of Losdun, to see there two Dishes of Brass, in which were Baptised the three hundred sixty five Children of the Countess of Heneberg, Daughter to Florent, 

This History is to be found in Erasmus, Vives, Guicciardin, Christoval, Guy Dominick Peter, Author of the Annals of Flanders: And in many others, who speak of this Lying-in, as of a thing credible and well Attested, and as they believe true. The Annals relate, that the 365 Children, were Baptised by Don William, the Bishop Suffragan of Treves, and that both they and their Mother died on the same day, which was Good-Friday, in the Year 1276.  
Surius Garon, and divers Chronologers, relate an History of a Lady of Provence, called Irmentrude, and Wife of Isembard, Earl of Altorfe, who being brought to Bed of twelve Sons, would have caused eleven to be Drowned in the River. They add, That Isembard, meeting the Woman which carried them, asked her what she had in her Pannier, the Woman answered, they were some little Whelps, which she went to drown; Isembard was resolved to see them, and having discovered the matter, he took the Children and put them to Nurses, and when they were grown up presented them all alive to his Wife; in memory of which, saith the History, that Family assumed the name of Wolf, which it still retains.  
John Picinino de Mirandole II. hath written that a Woman of his Country, named Dorothy, brought twenty Children into the World at two Births, nine at one, and eleven at the other.  
Albert the Great, speaks of a Germane Woman, who was brought to Bed of one hundred and fifty Children. It would be no hard matter to produce a number of the like Examples.   the Fourth Earl of Holland.  
You have heard what hath been said of this Lady; that having reproached a Beggar-Woman for having too many Children, the poor Creature in answer, wished her as many as there were days in the Year; which that Year accordingly happened, for the Countess was brought to Bed of three hundred sixty five Children, who were all Christened, and the same day buried in the Church of Losdun. This History is to be seen a little more at large, in a great Picture, on the sides whereof the two Basins are fixed. We must not forget, that the Boys were named John, and the Girls Elizabeth. Mark Cremer relates of a Polonian Lady, the Wife of Count Virboslaus, who in sequel of such an Imprecation, was brought to Bed of thirty six Children.  
I am loath so soon to part with the Hague, which, without contradiction, is one of the most pleasant Places in the World, but I must say something of Leyden and Haerlem, before I finish my Letter. But think not, that when you leave the Hague, and come to Leyden, you fall into a desert Country: Every thing hath its value, and that of Leyden is not small; it is true all the Cities of Holland are fair to amazement: And we cannot praise one enough, without saying so much, as must leave us no expressions for the other. Nevertheless, I should be glad to be able to give you some new Idea of the Beauties of Leyden.  

LEYDEN.  This City hath not so great a number of Coaches as are seen at the Hague, nor so much noisy business as Rotterdam. But perhaps its quiet is far more charming. It is a great City, but repose Rules there, and in it you enjoy all the sweets of a Country Life. It's little disturbance allows it an extraordinary Neatness: Nothing comes near that of its Houses, and we may compare the Streets to so many Alleys of a well-adorned Garden. Yet we must freely confess, that the Inhabitants of Leyden would willingly consent that their Pavement should be less clean, and that they endured a little more trouble, on condition they could be Masters of a good Haven: I have heard Projects have been contrived about it. But it's said, that their Land lies so low that they dare not give the Sea a Passage: So that the Woollen-Manufacture makes the greatest Trade of this City.  
You know Leyden is very 
* Some believe that the Town is a work of the Romons: Others attribute it to the Saxons: but Jo. Scaliger pretends it was made by the Earls not above four or five hundred Years ago.  ancient, and there are still found some Marks of her Antiquity. But that which renders it most Famous, is her 
† The number of Scholars is fifteen hundred or thereabouts. The University hath divers Privileges.  University. They commonly lead the Strangers to the Physick-School; and in the Anatomy-Hall you may see a great number of Skeletons of Men and Beasts: Many natural Rareties, and other Curiosities; as of Plants, Fruits, Animals, Arms, strange Habits, Pictures, Mummies, curious Works, Urns, Images, etc. I fear you would incline to be incredulous of the Story of a Prussian Peasant which is there Painted: He had swallowed a very large Knife: So that they were forced to cut open his Stomach to get it out, after which, as is said, he lived eight Years.  
In the midst of the Hall is an unfortunate Thief, whom they derided to extremity, after they had Hanged him. They fixed his Skeleton to a Gibbet, upon that of an Ox, because he had been a Cow-stealer; they made another Shoes of his own Skin, and a Shirt to another of his own Bowels.  
The Physick-Garden is not far from hence. A great number of Rareties are still to be seen in the Gallery of this Garden, and in the Cabinet called the Indian-Cabinet, to which this Gallery leads. I remember I observed amongst other things, an Ape, and a Cat, which were produced with 
* There are many flying Cats in the Province of Malabar. Tassoni.  Wings: The hand of a Mermaid: A Stare with long Ears, a Vegetable Priapus, which is a most curious Plant: A Monster which issued out of a Hens Egg. A Piece of Money of Card or Paper, made at Leyden, when it was Besieged by the Spaniards in 1574. And a Serpent brought from Surinam, on whose Skin are several natural Figures, which much resemble some Arabic Characters. I make you this last Observation, because your Tutor very much admires this little wonder of Nature. But indeed, to speak freely, I find nothing singular in this, no more than in the Greek Letters which form, as some thought the turn and wind of a Maze. There is so universal a diversity in all things in the World, that it is easy to find the like of the first Figure which presents itself, if we would give ourselves the trouble of a search.  
The greatest part of Animals, Infects, and other things, are hanged up in Vials filled with Spirits of Wine, whereby they are preserved from Corruption.  
Going out hence, we were to see the great Church, which is a vast Pile; and afterwards we took Boat for Haerlem. But before we proceed on our Voyage, I must needs give you some account of the unfortunate destiny of the Rhine, of which there are some small remains at Leyden. Other Rivers increase their course and their glory, at the rate they proceed; but this so great and famous River, becomes nothing, and is utterly lost in the Harbour. After it hath been constrained to divide itself at Meeting with the Skenk Fort, where one half of its Waters, take the name of Wahal: the Yssel robs it 
* It is to be observed, that the branch of the Rhine, which takes to the right a little above Arnheim, and carries the name of the Yssel, is not properly the Yssel. It is a Channel which Drusus digged, and brought near to a place now called Doesbourg, to make a communication at this place between the Waters of the Rhine and the Yssel.  of the other half a little above Arnheim. Yet it goes on to that City, though much weakened, and at seven or eight Leagues from thence is again obliged to separate at the little City of Dorstadt: It's principal Branch there takes a new Name, and is called the Leck, and the poor little stripped Rivulet, which escaped, and turns to the Right, retains still its name of Rhine, and passeth on to Utrecht, where it hath a fourth Division: The Vecht breaks off at that place, and takes its course to the North: And the little thread of Water which is yet called the Rhine, passeth quietly to Worden. It comes to bid its last farewell to Leyden, and faintly finisheth its course, by losing the small remainders of its Waters, in two or three Canals, without having the Honour to enter into the Sea. The Scamander, the Simois, and some other renowned Rivers, which are worthy to be compared to the Rhine, have yet found the same reverse of Fortune: The whole surface of the Earth is subject to continual Alterations. These Catastrophes put me in mind of what Ovid hath said, 
Vidi ego quod fuerat quondam solidissima tellus  
Esse fretum, vidi factas ex aequore terras, etc.   
But we are not ignorant of the cause of the Rhine's fate; it was an Earthquake which shook the Downs, and 
* In the Year 860. or as John Gerbrardus at Leyden, in the Year 840. This Author represents the then Storm as most terrible and dreadful.  filled the Mouth of this River, and forced it to return to seek a new Passage. The Leck was then scarce worth notice, but the Waters of the Rhine, which were driven back and overflowed the Country, swelled, enlarged, and deepned the Lecks Canal; and the entrance to Sea hath ever since been shut against the Rhine's ancient course: This poor River, which had run the greatest hazards in the Lake of Constance, and which had thrown itself down the Precipice, near to Schaffhausen, at last loses both its Reputation and Waters, at the Village of Catwick.  
There are still found some Pieces of the Card or Paper-Money, which were Coined during the famous Siege carried on by the Spaniards in 1574. on one side was Inscribed, Haec libertatis ergo, and on the other Pugno pro Patria.  
They likewise told me, that they have still preserved the Board of the famous Tailor 
† John Bucold. , called John of Leyden, (because born there) head of the Anabaptists, King of Munster, etc. You know the Person.  
It is about five Leagues from Leyden to Harlem, but the Villages and pleasant Houses which you see on the right and left, all along the Canal, make the way seem very short. Harlem is large and very agreeable: It is in one respect better than Leyden. Its Waters are quickened by the little River Sparen, which joins itself to its Canals, and which gives to some their course, and to others some Circulation. The Linen and Tape which are made at Harlem, have for a long time been its chief Trade: But I hear that at present they have a great Manufacture of Silk Stuffs. 
* It was dedicated to S. Baron. It is the greatest of all the Province.  The Great Church and the Townhouse are the stateliest Buildings: And its Wood of tall Trees, with its long and straight Walks, is one of its principal Ornaments. It boasts to have given Birth to Laurence Coster, who, if you will believe them, was the 
† With Thomas Pieterson, John Guttenburg, and his two Brothers.  Inventor of Printing. But you know, Sir, that Guttenburg of Strasburgh disputes that Invention with this Coster: And that the pretended Conjurer, John Faustus of Mentz, will give place to neither; and besides this Invention is attributed to Conrade and Arnold, 

There are to be seen in the Town house divers Rareties, amongst which they keep with particular care in a Casket of Silver, and wrapped in Silk, the first Book (according to those of Harlem) that ever was Printed: Its Title is Speculum humanae Salvationis: It hath many Figures. The keeping of this Book, is entrusted to several Magistrates, who have every one a different Key of the place where it is, which renders it not easy to be seen. The Statue of Laurence Coster is likewise to be seen in this place. The Inscription which you have here was put in Letters of Gold on the door of his House, with the following Verses: 
MEMORIAE SACRUM.  
Typographia Ars Artium omnium Conservatrix hic primum inventa circa annum 1440.  
Vana quid Archetypos & prela Moguntia jactas?  
Harlemi Archetypos prelaque nata scias.  
Extulit hic, monstrante Deo, Laurentius artem.  
Dissimulare virum, dissimulare Deum est.    Brothers and Burgesses of the same City of Mentz. 'Tis strange that History is so blinded with Fables, that we cannot extricate the Truth in so novel a matter. If what Trigaultius and other Travellers have said be true, that Printing is of so ancient usage in China it is very probable, 
Tavernier assures us, that the Persians have not yet the use of Printing.  that those who first brought it into Europe, were but Imitators of others. Meyer reports, that in the Year 1403. a Mermaid was brought to Harlem, who, by a furious Tempest, was thrown on the Neighbouring Shore: That they accustomed her to Eat several Meats, but her principal Food was Bread and Milk: That they taught her to Spin; and that she lived many Years. Others writ, that this Mermaid was sent from Embden to Harlem. J. G. of Leyden adds, that she would often pull off her  to return to the Water, and that she had an odd kind of Speech. (
* (They did not understand her Speech, nor she our Language.)  Locutionem ejus non intelligebant, sed nec ipsa nostrum intellexit idioma). And that she was buried in a Churchyard, because she had Learned to salute the Cross. He also said, that he knew Persons that had seen her.  
We would willingly have again taken Boat to come from Harlem hither, but it being a little too late when we came from thence, and we willing to get hither as soon as we could, we thought it better to make use of a Coach. The Carriage was a little uneasy, because the Coach was not hung, but to make amends, it went a great deal swifter than the Boat. I am,  
SIR, Yours, etc. Amsterdam, this 15. Octob. 1687.   

LETTER III.  
SIR,  
I Had some regret to write my last Letter to you from Amsterdam, 
AMSTERDAM.  without giving any account of that famous City, but that I fancied I should do well to refresh my Memory with its Idea, that I might write things more certainly. In the mean time I entreat you to remember, that I have not promised to give you an entire description of any place: It would require a long continuance in this City to learn every thing of it, and a great Volume to write it all.  
Amsterdam is without doubt one of the most beautiful, admirable, and important Cities in the World; and 'tis certain, that it answers in every point the great Reputation it hath in the World: But that one may be more Surprised with its Beauty, it would be best not to have known beforehand, the other Cities of Holland. I confess, that after I had seen the Haven of Rotterdam, and the Beauties of the Hague and Leyden, I was but little surprised when I came first to Amsterdam: I found nothing there which might much distinguish it from those other Cities. Nay, I must freely tell you, that the multitude of Carts and Truckles, 
There are some Streets which are always very clean.  whose number swells daily by the vastness of the Trade, so pester and dirty the Streets, that it is not a very diverting Object to one who is charmed only with such things as appear pleasant to the Eye, especially if he come from another City, which can show more neatness and tranquillity.  
There is no comparison to be made between the greatness of Amsterdam and London, since, according to Calculation, there are near seven hundred thousand Souls in London, and Amsterdam contains not above two hundred thousand, although so great a number of French Refugees are lately settled there. Nevertheless, it must be acknowledged, that Amsterdam yields not to any City in the World for Riches, or extent of Trade. You know the 
* This Company was established in 1594.  East-India Company alone is so renowned and powerful that it hath made head against Princes, without interrupting the course of its Traffic. This famous City is all founded on Piles in the midst of a Marish: It is built on the South of the River Ye, 
Or Tye.  which is, as it were, an Arm of the Zuyder-zee, on which the prodigious number of Ships resembles a vast Forest.  
The 
† Twenty two Bastions. The Ditches are Eighty paces broad, deep and filled with running Water; the ordinary Garrison is eight Companies of 200 Men each: the Captains must be Amsterdamers. Besides, there are 60 Companies of Burghers, of 150 Men each. The Gates are shut at Nine of the Clock. They are partly guarded by the Citizens, and partly by the Garrison. The Keys are put into an Iron Chest in custody of the Citizens, and the chief Burgomaster keeps the Keys. G. L.  Fortifications are not slight, and besides, there are Arsenals, and Sluices to drown all the Country about: So that it may be justly accounted a very strong place. 
* It is said this Building cost three Millions.  The Townhouse is a very large and stately Fabric of hewn Stone, its length is one hundred and ten paces, and its breadth twenty four. The Foundation did certainly cost as much as all the Superstructure. It's Architecture is highly valued, yet I fancy it ought to have had a fairer Portal, instead of those low and narrow Doors, which debase the entrance into this most splendid Palace; it were also to be wished, that the Court-yard before it were more neat and regular.  
As soon as you leave this, you pass into the 
† It is called the New Church. It was formerly dedicated to St. Catharine. The Organs cost one hundred thousand Crowns. The Tomb of de Ruyter, is a piece worth your view in this Church. They designed to erect a very high Steeple to it, but that work remains imperfect.  principal Church, which is not so large as those of Leyden and Harlem. It is to be considered, that Amsterdam, about four hundred and fifty Years ago was only a Village of Fishermen: And this so renowned a City in our Age, was but in a very indifferent condition when the Church, of which I am speaking, was built. In it they show you the Pulpit, and tell you that it, together with its Canopy, cost twenty two thousand Crowns. It is made only of Wood, of Gothick Carving, much loaded with Ornaments. On the Glass-Windows of this Church is Painted the History of the Emperor Maximilian the Second, who honoured the Arms of the City with an Imperial Crown, in acknowledgement of the good Offices he had received from this City. The Portugueze Jews here are extraordinary Rich, and their Synagogue is a 
* It is a square Building, erected Anno 1671. notwithstanding the Inquisition against the Jews in Spain and Portugal. A Portugueze Jew (Don Jerome Nunez de Costa) was Agent of Portugal, at Amsterdam. And another (Don Emanuel de Belmont) Resident of Spain. This last received the Title of Count from the Emperor.  stately Building, whereas that of the High-Dutch is but mean and contemptible.  
As we went along they brought us to one of the 
† Rasp-house.  Houses of Correction for the young Debauchees, where they are constrained to work: There was one in a dark Cellar, where he Pumped incessantly, without which the Cellar would in a quarter of an hour be filled with Water, and he by consequence in danger of Drowning. Every one hath his Occupation and Task, which he must punctually perform under the Penalty of Whipping. Some are there for their lives, others only for a time. There is also the like 
* Spin-house.  House for Whores, but they treat them with less Severity: This House is not very full. It is a double misfortune to about a Score of poor Creatures who are kept in this Prison to do Penance per force, whilst some thousands of their Comrades have their Tails at liberty: For to speak the truth, if these unhappy Recluses have deserved such a Treatment, it is most certain, that there are many others in Amsterdam who deserve it more than they, yet are not thus shut up.  

A modern Author, who lived a long time at Amsterdam, hath written, that there are in that City about 13000 Roman Catholics, and as many Lutherans, 4000 Anabaptists, 80 Families of Arminians, 50 of Quakers, 450 or some more of Portugueze Jews, 100 of High-Dutch Jews, and many private Persons who are of no Religion at all.  The Roman Catholics have here their Liberty, as well as through all the States Dominions: but I assure you that their number is not near so great in this City, as some would persuade us. I had the fortune to discourse with a very intelligent and curious Person, who hath examined this matter; and he affirms, that the Roman Catholics, and the other Sectaries together, do not make a fourth part of the Inhabitants of Amsterdam. I know not whether you have heard of a kind of Convent of Nuns, called 
* There is 130 of them. They are in a large Cloister. Their Church may easily contain 2000 People. Calvisius reports, that the Order of the Beguines was Instituted in the Year 1207. by one called Begues.  Beguines, who are still tolerated here: There are a great many of them in the Spanish Netherlands. But because I believe you are not acquainted with this sort of Society, I will give you the Character of it in few and general terms: It is composed of Maidens or Widows who have no Children. There are amongst them some of all sorts of Qualities, and nothing is required to make them capable of admittance but good Testimonials, and an Estate sufficient to maintain them at their own Charges; every Beguine may have her House and necessary conveniences by herself, or they may join several together, according as Kindred or Friendship may incline them. The place of this Society bears the name of the Beguinage, which is commonly like a little City enclosed within another, and hath about it a Wall and a Ditch. There is one Church in this enclosure, where the Beguines are obliged to be present at the hours appointed for their Devotions. Their Habits are black, and something fantastical. They regulate their Expenses as they please themselves, as well for their Table as Furniture. They receive and pay Visits when they please. They quit the Beguinage when they are minded to Marry, or on any other occasion. And it may be said, that this retreat, far from the vowed constraint of a Convent, is a very sweet and reasonable manner of living.  
The confusion caused by the Coaches, by reason of the perpetual Carriage of Merchandizes, and the danger of shaking the Houses, which, as I told you, are founded on Piles, is the reason that none but Strangers and Physicians are allowed to have any; Sleds indeed are permitted, but that being a slow and uneasy Carriage, there are none but old Women who make use of it.  
We went to see a French Opera, where there was neither Machine's, nor rich , nor good Actors. That which we found most pleasant was a great Lass, 
You ought to see at Amsterdam the Cabinets of Mr. Wiltzen, Vanderhem, Occo and Grill. C. Patin.  who acts the part of a Man, and pronounced what she sung so well, that one would have believed her naturally French, tho' all she said was by rote, for she understood not a word of French. They say she was a Drummer for five or six Years amongst the Dutch Troops.  
It is requisite I should say something of the famous Musick-Houses: They are a kind of Taverns or Halls for Dancing, where the young People, of the meanest sort, Men and Maids, meet every Evening. These are the meeting places, but the Intrigue is carried on in another. Usually Strangers have the curiosity to see them. They must make show as if they had a mind to drink a Glass of Wine when it is offered, and give some gratuity to him or her who presents it. 
The Exchange of London is about 148 foot in length, and 120 in breadth.   
The Burse or Exchange was built in the Year 1608. It is a Building of fine carved Stone, and founded on more than two thousand Piles. The place where the Merchants assemble is 200 foot long, and 124 in breadth. The Galleries are supported by forty six Pillars; they are neither so fine nor so numerous as those on the Exchange at London.  
The Academy, vulgarly called the illustrious School, is a handsome Building: There they teach the Oriental and other Tongues: Divinity, Philosophy, History, etc. The Lawyers and the Physicians have also their Schools.  
There are five Towers in the City, each of them having a great Clock, which are so placed and distributed, that the hours may be easily known in any part of the City. I had an hundred other Curiosities to tell you of Amsterdam, but I once more advise you to visit them yourself.  
We hope to departed to morrow for Utrecht, by the Canal; and tho' I cannot precisely tell the way we shall take thence to Cologne, yet I shall not fail to write to you as soon as I shall have wherewithal to fill a Letter.  
I returned yesterday from Losdun, whither some Friends obliged me to go a second time with them. I am very glad I can inform you, that the Inscription which is seen in the Church of this Village, differs from that in the Annals which I cited to you, in that, it calls the Bishop who Baptised the 365 Children, Guido, Suffragan of Utretcht; and in the Annals he is named William, Suffragan of Treves. This variation calls not in question the truth or probability of the Fact. There are many times alterations in the speaking and writing of things which in themselves are very true; and this might be by the fault of the Transcriber. Above the Inscription are these two Verses: 
En tibi monstrosum nimis, & memorabile factum,  
Quale nec à mundi conditione datum.  And below, Haec lege, mox animo stupefactus, Lector, abibis.  
I am, SIR, Yours, etc. At Amsterdam, this 20th. of October, 1687.   

LETTER IU.  
SIR,  
WE were seven whole hours on the Canal between Amsterdam and Utrecht, but the way was extremely pleasant, as well because of the fair Wether, and the fine Country, as of the good Company we had in the Boat.  
We left on the Right-hand, three Leagues from Amsterdam, the old Castle of Abcow, with the Village of the same name, where are the bounds of the Province of Holland.  
It was late when we came to Utrecht, and our Affairs allowed us to stay there but some part of the next day. This City gins to abate of the extreme neatness of the Province of Holland, though it yet retains enough of it. You know it is great, ancient, and famous for its University. 
UTRECHT.  The happy Union made here in the last Age 
* Anno 1579. , which is the Band and Knot of the Republic, is an eternal Honour to this City. They boast of the extraordinary height of the Steeple of this Cathedral in which Church are kept some pretended Relics, 
This Church was begun by Dagobert I. about the Year 630.  which are in great Veneration with the Romanists.  

M. Kercringius, a famous Physician and Anatomist, dwelling at Utrecht, hath Foetus' of all Ages, by which you may observe the order, proportion, and progress of their Formation, from the Egg to the forming of all the Organs of the Body. C. Patin.  The Walk of the Mall is fine, and those of Utrecht esteem it the more, because it was spared by order of the French King when he came to that City some Years since; and his Troops, as you know, ruined all things thereabouts.  
A Gentleman of Utrecht imparted a curious Observation to me, by which you may judge of the number of Towns throughout this Country; he found forty eight, to each of which one may go easily from Utrecht in a day, and there are thirty three of them to which you may go and come back the same day.  
When you go out of Utrecht, you find a Country altogether different from that we left last. The Canals and Ditches of Holland are changed into Hedges, and the Meadows into high and ploughed Fields. Two hours from Utrecht we crossed the fine Avenues of Zeist in sight of a Castle on the right hand. 
ZEIST.  It is a very fair Building, compassed with large Ditches full of running Water, and adorned with Woods, Gardens, Statues, Fountains, and all other Embellishments you can desire. This House belongs to one of the great Lords of the Country, who built it some Years since, and hath the repute of doing things magnificently.  
Between Rhenen and Arnheim the Fields are almost wholly Planted with Tabaco, and the Stakes by which it is propped, make a show of Vineyards at a distance.  
Approaching the Village of Rhincom, three hours on this side Rhenen, you find a boundary Stone, which separates the Lordship of Utrecht from the Duchy of Gueldres.  
Arnheim is tolerably Fortified, 
ARNHEIM.  otherwise I found nothing worth noting in it. The Beds in the Inns are made like Presses or Cupboards; which you go up a Ladder to, and after plunge yourself into a deep Featherbed, and have another of the same sort for your covering.  
Two good hours and an half from Arnheim we passed the yssel divided into three Branches very near each other: And then having traversed Doesbourg, 
DOESBOURG.  which is a little City on that River in the County of Zutphen, we were forced to Dine with Biscuit and Milk in a paltry Village, and in the Evening we were treated much after the same manner at Ysselbourg, 
YSSELBOURG.  which is a poor little dismantled place, at the entrance into the Country of Cleves.  
There is scarce any thing but Woods and Sandy Grounds between Ysselbourg and Wesel; 
WESEL: formerly a Hans-Town.  and this last place hath no great matter remarkable: Its Fortifications are so so. They are at present at Work on a Citadel between the City and the Fort of Lip on the bank of the Rhine. The Elector of Brandenburg gives liberty for the public exercise of their Religion to the Roman Catholics in his Duchy of Cleves, by a Treaty which that Prince made with the Duke of of Neuburg, now Elector Palatine, on condition that the Duke should grant the same liberty to the Protestants in his Dutchies of Juliers and Berg. There are four Churches at Wesel: The Protestants called Calvinists, have the two principal, the Lutherans the third, and those of the Roman Communion the other. The Jews have a little Synagogue there.  
We passed the Lip half an hour from Wesel, which River throws itself into the Rhine, and we came the same day in good time to Duisbourg. 
DUISBOURG formerly a Hans-Town.  This City is about the bigness of Wesel, without Fortifications, or any thing considerable but its University. The principal Church is fair enough, and belongs to the Protestants. The Scholars walk about the Streets in their Morning-Gowns, like those of Leyden. I was informed that the Roman Catholics might carry the Host about there, according to the plenary liberty which is granted them in all this Country, though they chose rather to refrain from doing it, lest any accidents should happen which might disturb the peaceable manner of living which they and the Protestants enjoy together. A good half League from Duisbourg we entered into the Country of Berg, which, with that of Juliers, belongs to the Duke of Neuburg, Eldest Son to the Elector Palatine. And two hours after we passed through Keyserwaert, 
KEYSERWAERT.  which is a very little City upon the Rhine. It belongs to the Elector of Cologne, to whom, as we were informed, it remains in Mortgage, and by whom it was Fortified.  
We have now been a few hours at Dusseldorp, 
DUSSELDORP.  where we have already walked about a great while to discover something worth our Observation. This City is bigger by half than Duisbourg, and every way better; there are no Suburbs to it, no more than to Keyserwart. The Fortifications are very well kept, and the Electoral Prince, the Duke of Newbourg, there makes his Residence. This is all I can now say.  
I am, SIR, Yours, etc. At Dusseldorp, Octob. 23. 1687.   

LETTER V.  
SIR,  
THis Letter will give you an Account of part of what I could observe at Cologne in three days. 
COLOGNE, an Imperial City and Hans-Town. Otho the Great made it an Imperial City, and gave it the Privileges it now enjoys.  As we wandered in our Walks abroad, you must expect no regular Order in the little Relations which I send you. I am glad to give you this Advertisement by the by, that you may not expect to have things in a better Method than we found them.  
Cologne is to be seen far enough off, and all in plain view in a level Country. The City is very great, 
There are 24 Gates, 13 to the Land, and 11 on the Rhine.  surrounded with a Wall and dry Ditch, with Towers and Bastions which defend its Gates. There is rarely so great a number of Steeples to be any where seen, as appeared to us on the side we approached it.  
Cologne, as you know, is an Imperial City, governed by its Burgo-Masters: But the Archbishop hath there a very great Power. This Prince takes cognizance of all Affairs both Civil and Criminal, and can Pardon those whom the Magistrates condemn. And the Oath which the City takes, seems to be a kind of Homage: It is in these terms; We Free Burgesses of Cologne, do this day, for now, and for ever promise to— Archbishop of Cologne, to be faithful and favourable to him, as long as he shall conserve in our Rights and Honour, and in our ancient Privileges, Us, our Wives, our Children, and our City of Cologne. So God and his Saints help us.  

There is great Jealousy between the City and the Elector. They will not suffer him to stay long there with any great Train. Many Arch-Bishops have attempted their Liberties. Under the Reign of the Emperor Adolphus of Nassaw, the Inhabitants went in Arms to meet their Archbishop, as far as Woringhen in Brabant, where having put the Keys of their City between him and them in the Field of Battle, to be the price of the Victory, they obtained that with their Keys and Franchises. They have ever since celebrated a Festival on this Account, with a great deal of Ceremony. Heiss.  If you please, you may have the Answer which the Bishop returns them; it was a Burgomaster gave me them both.  
We— by the Grace of God, Archbishop of the Holy Church of Cologne, and Arch-Chancellor of the Empire in Italy: To the end that there may be an amicable Confederacy, entire Confidence, and sincere and inviolable Peace between Us and our dear Burgesses of the City of Cologne, do make known to all by these Presents, that we do promise and declare sincerely, and without Fraud, that we do confirm all their Rights and Franchises, written or not written, old or new, within or without the City of Cologne, which have been granted to it by the Popes, Emperors, Kings, and Arch-Bishops, of Cologne, without ever doing any thing to violate the same. In Testimony whereof, etc.  
The Chapter of Cologne is composed of sixty Canons, who ought all to be Princes or Earls. The four and twenty  are the Capitularies.  
It was formerly the Electors of Cologne, who Crowned the Emperor according to the Constitution of the Golden-Bull; but these Electors not having been Priests for a long time, those of Mentz perform that Office in their stead, and the last have 
* They pretend also to this right, in quality of the first Arch-Bishops. The Emperor now reigning was Crowned by the Archbishop of Cologne.  since remained in possession of that Privilege.  
I am informed that there are here many Protestants known to be such: They go into the Lands of the Duke of Newbourg, to exercise their Religion. They are always called by their old name of 
† Those who presented the Petition were Habited all alike. They never take it ill to be called Gueux, and to distinguish themselves by that Name, they hung a Medal at their Necks, upon which, on one side, was the Effigies of the King, (Philip II.) and on the other, two hands joined together, which held two Budgets, with divers little Porringers, and round about was written, Faithful to the King even to Beggary. Gab. Chappuys, Hist. of the Wars of Flanders.  Gueux, or Beggars, which, as you know, was given at Brussels to the Authors of the Agreement, by the Count de Barlemont.  
The Town-House is a great Gothick Building. We saw there, amongst other things, Chambers full of Bows, Arrows, Crossbows, Quivers, Bucklers, and other ancient Arms. I measured one of those great Crossbows which had need of Rests; The Bow was of Whale-Bone, and had twelve Foot of length, eight Inches broad, and four Inches thick. It is very pleasant to behold Cologne, and the delicate Country about it, from the top of the Tower of this House.  
The little part of the City, which is on the other side of the Rhine, is the Propriety of the Elector, and is the Quarter allotted to the Jews.  
The Cathedral Church remains in a very imperfect State; it is great pity so fine a beginning should never attain its end. In the Year 1622. the three pretended Kings, who came to adore our Saviour, were brought from Milan into this Church, 
When Frederick Barbarossa caused Milan to be  where Fame attributes many Miracles to them. They sell for a penny a dozen little Billets, which have touched them, and communicate their Virtue.  
An extraordinary Drought having caused a Famine in Hungary (I know not positively in what time it was) a great number of the People of that Country, came to supplicate the assistance of the three Kings, after they had in vain invoked the Saints of their Country and Neighbourhood; who had no sooner spoke the word, but it reigned in great abundance. From that time a Procession of Hungarians comes every seventh Year to pay Homage to their Benefactors; and these People are treated and waited upon by the Magistrates for fifteen days, in a very fine House built on purpose for them.  
I observed a hole three or four Foot wide, on the top of the Vaulted Roof of the Church, and almost over the Chapel, where are kept these Royal Relics. There are these words written round this Overture, Anno 1404. 30. 
See To. II. Letter xxiii.  Octob. ventus de nocte flat ingens grandem per tectum lapidem pellit. On the 30th. of October, in the Year 1404. a great Wind blew in the Night, and drove a great Stone through the Roof. This Stone lies on the Pavement near the Chapel. Our Guide told us, they called it, the Devil's Stone, because it is believed, the Devil threw it out of Malice to destroy the Chapel. I observed likewise in the same Church, over one of the doors, thirty six gilded Staves, about three foot long each; and this Distich is written underneath: 
Quot pendere vides Baculos tot Episcopus Annos  
Huic Agrippinae praefuit Ecclesiae.  And in effect, the Elector is at this time in the thirty seventh Year of his Archbishopric. But I could not learn neither the Original, nor the Benefit of this Custom.  
We saw, as we passed, the curious Church of the Jesuits, and from thence went to that of St. Ursula. You know, without doubt, the Legend of this Saint, and of her eleven thousand Virgins, who were Massacred with her by the Huns at Cologne, in the Year 238. Those who first wrote this Story, supposed that there was one Etherus, King of England, and Husband of Ursula, and one Pope Cyriack, his Contemporary, Persons of whom no notice is taken in History. In the mean time, every one of the eleven thousand Virgins, have done eleven thousand Miracles, and furnished a great number of Relics. The Body of Ursula lay for a long time confounded amongst the rest; but they say it was at last distinguished by a Pigeon; who, for several days, came regularly at a set hour to her Tomb: And at present the Saint is laid near her Husband Etherus. The Church is filled with the Tombs of many of the Virgins, and you find always a multitude of Old-Women in it, repeating of Pater-nosters from Morning to Night. They say the Earth of this Church will not endure any other dead Corpse; and to prove this, they there show the Tomb of a Daughter of a certain Duke of Brabant, who, after they had forcibly Interred her there, raised up herself, and remained in the Air, so that they were fain to fix her with Iron, as she is now two or three Feet from the Earth, against one of the Pillars of the Church.  
It is pleasant to see in a great Chapel, which is on the side of this same Church, the Bones of the Virgins, with which it is adorned and hung, after the manner which you see the Swords and Pistols ranged at White-Hall, in the Guard-Chamber. These Bones, except the Heads, have no Ornaments, but to the Heads they have done particular Honours; for some of them are put up in cases of Silver, and others have cover of Gold, there is none which have not at least their Caps of Cloth of Gold, or a Bonnet of Crimson-Velvet, wrought with Pearls and Jewels. Behold, Sir, what, together with the pretended three Kings, is the chief Object of the Devotion of Cologne, and from whence it comes to be called Cologne the Holy: and from hence also it is, that the Arms of this City are, Argent, eleven Flames Gules, with a Chief of the Second, charged with three Crowns Or. The eleven Flames are in Memorial of the eleven thousand Virgins, and the three Crowns represent the three Kings.  
In the Church of the Maccabees there is a Crucifix which wears a Peruke, which is very singular; but that which is marvellous and edifying is, that when the Hungarian Pilgrims come to Cologne, they do each of them cut off a lock of Hair from this Peruke, and yet it never diminishes.  
I observed, at the entrance into the Church of the Twelve Apostles, a Picture, which represents a very rare Event; which nevertheless might easily be received for Truth, if the end of the Story did not render it suspicious. The Wife of a Consul of Cologne, being Buried in the Year 1571. with a Ring of great Price, the Sexton, the Night following, opened the Tomb to steal the Ring; I leave you to judge if he were not frighted when he felt his hand caught hold of, and when the good Lady grasped him to get out of the Sepulchre, and yet he loosed himself and fled away, without further Conversation. The Person raised, unwrapped herself as well as she could, and went to knock at the door of her House; She called a Servant by his Name, and in few words told him the sum of her Adventure, that he might not let her Perish with Cold: But the Man thought her a Ghost, and all in a fright run to tell the thing to his Master. (So far may be true, now comes the Fable.) The Master, as incredulous as the Man, called him Fool, and said he would as soon believe his Horses were in the Garret, and instantly a most dreadful noise was heard in the Garret; the Man went up thither, and found six Coach-Horses there, without counting the rest in the Stable. The Consul, amazed at so many Prodigies, was not able to speak; the Man was in an Ecstasy or Swoon in the Garret, and the living deceased, quaking in her Shroud, was expecting to be let in: at last it came to pass that the door was opened, and they chafed and used her so well, that she revived as if nothing had passed; and the next day they made Machine's necessary to let down the Horses. And to make the truth of this appear, there is at this day to be seen in the Garret, some Wooden Horses, which are covered with the others Skins. And they show in the Church of the Twelve Apostles, a great piece of Linen Cloth which this Woman Spun after her return to the World; in which she lived seven Years afterwards.  
I have nothing further to tell you of Cologne, only that this is the Country wherein we first begun to find Vines; tho' Wine here is very dear in the Houses of Entertainment. And that there are yet remaining some 
* Leskirken and Judaes'.  Families, who affirm they are issued from the Roman Race, and who produce their Genealogies, from the first time this City was made a Colony of the Empire.  
I am, SIR, Yours, etc. At Cologne, Octob. 26. 1687.   

LETTER VI.  
SIR,  
THE Ways from Cologne to Mentz are so bad at present, and the Chariot so unpleasant and uneasy, that we chose rather to remount the Rhine, let the Passage be never so slow.  

BONNER.  We quickly arrived at Bonner, which appeared to us a little dirty City; I could not learn that there was any thing in it to deserve our stay there. The Fortifications are neglected, and the Palace of the Elector of Cologne, who there makes his Residence, seems to be but a very indifferent House. We had in the Boat a Burgomaster of Cologne, 
ANDERNACH. and Keyserwaert have a right of Toll on the Rhine.  who told me, as we passed by Andernache that there are some Gentlemen in that little City who have particular Privileges, and are called Free Knights. He also told me many Stories of a great House on the other side the Rhine, which is not Inhabited, and which he said was haunted with Spirits, the ordinary scandal of uninhabited Houses or Castles.  

COBLENTZ. The most ancient Archbishopric in all Germany, and the Residence of the Elector of Treves. The Chapter of Treves admit neither Princes nor Earls easily. The Canons are, as much as is possible, only Gentlemen; they must prove sixteen Descents of Nobility, both on the Father and Mother's side. Heiss.  Coblentz is built upon a nook of Ground, which the Moselle makes when it falls into the Rhine. This City seemed to us very agreeable, and they told us it was very well Fortified on the Land side, but we saw only single Walls on that part which is watered by the Moselle and the Rhine. The Castle, which is on a rising Ground, on the other side of the River, is a very strong place, and wholly commands the City. They call this Castle Ehrenbreisten, 
EHRENBREISTEN.  which signifies the famous Rock, or the Rock of Honour: It is built on the Ruins of the Fort of Hermestein, of which there remains only that corner of the Rock on which the Windmill stands. There is always a good Garrison in this place, with store of Arms and Ammunition. The Palace of the Elector of Treves is at the foot of the Hill, under the Fortress, and on the Bank of the Rhine.  
Over-against the Town of Caub, which belongs to the Elector Palatine, half a League from Baccharach, which appertains to him likewise, there is an old Castle called Pfaltz in the middle of the Rhine, from whence, as some say, the Pfaltzgrauts, or, as we call them, the Palsgraves', or Counts Palatines, derive their Name. 
BACCHARACH.  Baccharach is a very little City built on the side of a Hill, and famous for its excellent Wines. One of the Ministers of the place, with whom we Dined, pretended that Baccharach was derived from Bacchi Ara, or the Altar of Bacchus; and he told us there were four ancient Towns in the Neighbourhood, which were also Consecrated to Bacchus: Steegbach, which is on a Hillock, Scala Bacchi, the Ladder of Bacchus. Diebach, Digitus Bacchi, or the Finger of Bacchus. Handbach, or Mannersbach, Manus Bacchi, or the Hand of Bacchus: And Lorch, Laurea Bacchi, or the Bays of Bacchus.  
As we parted from Baccharach, a furious Storm arose, which cast away a large Boat, and ours was not without some danger. We went ashore a little before we came to Rudisheim, where the bad Wether constrained us to stay a while; and we passed by an old ruinous House, which they said belonged to that wicked Archbishop of Mentz, 
Mentz was made an Archbishopric by Pope Zachary, Anno, 745.  who was eaten by Rats. The Rhine makes there a little Island, in the midst of which is a square Tower, which they call the Tower of Rats: And it is commonly reported, that this Prelate, who was then the most wicked and cruel Man alive, fell sick in that House which I lately mentioned (some say it was in another a little further off, but that is nothing to the Story,) and that, by an extraordinary Judgement of God, he was environed with Rats, which could by no means be driven away. They add, that he caused himself to be carried into the Island, where he hoped he might have been freed from them, but the Rats multiplied, swum over the River and devoured him. An ingenious Man, whom I saw in this place, assured me, that he had read this Story in some old Chronicles of the Country. He said he remembered, that the Archbishop was there named Renald, and that this happened in the Tenth Age. I would willingly give credit to this Story, but I fear however that there is some mistake in it. For I know that about this time there was a certain Priest, named Arnald, who fraudulently dispossessed the Archbishop Henry; and that this Arnald was Massacred by the People, which may have given occasion to some confusion in these Histories. Another Person told me, that the Name of the Archbishop was Hatton II. surnamed Bonosus; and that in a time of Famine, he caused a great number of poor People to be assembled in a Barn, where he caused them to be burnt, saying, These are the unprofitable Vermin, which are good for nothing but to consume the Bread which should serve for the Sustenance of others. However, 
Pliny, upon the Testimony of Varro, relates that the Isle of Gyara, one of the Cycladeses, was abandoned by the Inhabitants because of Rats. He adds, That a City of Spain, was overthrown by Rabbits. One in Thessaly by Moles. One in France by Frogs. And another in afric by Mice.  this Story is generally believed here, though others look upon it as a Fable. Some will lightly and hastily swallow any Prodigy, and others may offend as much by too much incredulity. If the Holy Scripture describes us a Pharaoh, pestered with Lice and Frogs, and an Herod, devoured by Worms; why should we hastily condemn the like event for a Fable? More surprising things have no doubt fallen out: And I remember I have read two such Histories in the Fasciculus temporum. The words of the Author are very like these, Mures infiniti convenerant quemdam, potenter circumvallantes cum in concivio, nec potuerunt abigi donec devoraretur. That is, A multitude of Mice compassed him about, strongly assaulting him in a Banquet, nor could they be driven away till they had devoured him. This happened about the Year 1074. He adds, Idem cuidam Principi Poloniae contigit. The same thing happened to a certain 
* Poppiel II. Surnamed Sardanapalus, he, his Wife and Children, were eaten by Rats, Anno 823. Poppielus Principes Polonorum Patruos suos veneno per fraudem interimit, eósque insepultos projicit, sed ex cadaveribus mures enati sunt qui Poppielum & ambos ejus filios una cum uxore devorant. Chronicon de Pop. Garon places this event in the Year 830. And he adds, That the Rats eat the name of Hatton, which was in many places in the Tower of the Rhine. The History of Hatton is related at large by Trithemius in his Chronicles, and by Camerarius in his Meditations. Calvisius reports, that in 1013. a certain Soldier was eaten by Rats. See 1 Sam. ch. 6. ver. 4, 5.  Prince of Poland.  
From Bonner to Binghen, three Leagues below Mentz, the Rhine is almost always between the Mountains; this Passage which it so happily met with, seems to be a particular work of Providence. You would fancy it to be a Canal made on purpose for this River, cross a Country which naturally was inaccessible to it, for fear, that not being capable to continue its course, it should swell and overflow the Provinces, which now its Stream only waters: At the foot of the Mountains which thus shut it up, the whole Country is full of Vineyards; and there are to be seen, on its Banks, both to the right and left, a great number of little Cities and good Villages. Castles there are also very frequent, most of them built on ascents, and even on the points of the sharpest Rocks. I counted forty since my departure from Cologne.  
I observed also in my way, a strange fantasticalness in the Habits of the Peasants, especially the Women. About Bonner and Rhindorfe they wore only on their Heads a little Cap of coloured Stuff, bordered with Galoon of another colour. Their Hair hangs in Tresses quite down their Backs. They make their Waste extremely short, and have a broad Leather Girdle with which they girt themselves half a Foot below their Waste, which is compassed with a thick folded Rowl, and lifts up their Petticoats so high, that they reach but little below their Knees.  
The Rhine is very broad, all the way from Binghen to Mentz. 
MENTZ.  At Mentz you go over it on a Bridge of Boats which hath no supporters. The first thing you meet with, when you come to this City from Cologne, is the Elector's Palace; it is of reddish Stone, and its Architecture hath a great number of Ornaments, after the Germane, though otherwise regular and magnificent enough.  
The bad Wether hindered us from seeing the Arsenal, as well as the Citadel and other Fortifications. But we were assured our loss was not great, there being nothing at all rare in any of them.  
They told us, that in the middle of the Citadel there is a kind of Tower, commonly called the Tomb of Drusus. Drusus Germanicus, Brother to Tiberius, died in Germany, to the great Grief, as you know, of the People and Army: But he died not on the Rhine. Besides, you may remember that his Body was carried to Rome to be burnt in the Field of Mars. It is true, that after Augustus had caused the Senate to give him the Surname of Germanicus, he also made Statues to be erected for him, with triumphal Arches, and other Monuments on the Banks of the Rhine: And perhaps this Tower or Mausoleum was one of his honorary Tombs, which the Ancients called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉.  
The Ornaments in which the Electors celebrate Mass are extraordinary Rich: And the Canopy under which the Host is carried, on certain occasions, is all covered with Pearls. I remember I have read in the Chronicles of the Abbey of Usberg, that they had formerly in the Treasury of the Vestry, an hollow Emerald of the bigness and shape of half a large Melon. This Author said, that on some days they put Water into that Cup, with two or three little Fishes which swum about in it; and when the Cup was covered they shown it to the People, and the motion of the Fishes produced such an effect, as persuaded the silly People that the Stone was alive.  
Every Elector bears the Arms of his own House, but he Quarters Gules, a Wheel Argent, which are the Arms of the Electorate. It is said, that the Original of these Arms came from the 
* Willigese or Viligese of the Country of Brunswick. This Chapter is wholly composed of Gentlemen. There are 42, of which 24 are Capitularies. Two thirds of their Suffrages are required in the choice of an Elector. Heiss. The University was Founded by the Archbishop Ditherus, Anno 1482. Calvis.  first Elector, who was the Son of a Cart-wright. There are to be seen in this Church many magnificent Tombs of these Princes who commonly are buried there.  
The Protestants may live at Mentz, but not exercise their Religion there. The City is indifferently large, but not much Peopled, and the University in no very good Condition. However, the situation makes amends, which is very pleasant, and the Country about it is excellently good.  
You know that the Elector of Mentz, is the first of the ecclesiastics, and Dean of the Electoral College. I shall say nothing of his Fines or Revenue, nor of those of the other Princes; for in things of that nature, 'tis almost impossible to make a right Judgement.  
I am, SIR, Yours, etc. At Mentz, Nou. 3. 1687.   

LETTER VII.  
SIR,  
AFter we had crossed the Rhine before Mentz, we entered into the Mien, which, by the Figure Parenthesis, is called Moganus, as well as Moenus; and from thence some think Moguntia took its name. We made use of the ordinary Boat of Francfort, and came thither the same day in very good time.  


FRANCFORT, an Imperial City.  
Eleven Royal Bastions.   This City is larger, richer, fairer, and better Peopled than Mentz. Its Fortifications seem tolerable, though they have their defects. It is seated in a flat Country, and hath no Suburbs. The Houses are built of that red kind of Stone, of which I have spoken before, or of Wood or Plaster covered with Slates. The Mien, which is a considerably large River, leaves it on the Right. A Stone Bridge, which is four hundred paces long, makes the Communication between Francfort and Saxenhausen.  
Francfort is an Imperial City, and hath a small Territory under its Government. The Senate are Lutherans, as also the greatest part of the Inhabitants. The Roman Catholics are in possession of the principal Church; in which the Ceremony of anointing the Emperor is performed. But they only carry the Host incognito, and make no Processions in public. The Protestants, whom they call Cavinists, have the exercise of their Religion at Bochenheim, which is a small hours Walk from thence, in the County of Hannau. They are obliged to Marry and christian in the Lutheran Churches.  
We took a view 
* It was burned in the Year 1460. with the Records of the City. Charlemagne granted its freedom with very great Privileges.  in the Townhouse, of the Chamber in which the Election of the Emperor is made, and where is kept one of the Originals of the Golden Bull: This Chamber hath nothing Magnificent; there are only old Tapestry Hang, a great Table with a green Carpet, and great Elbow-Chairs of black Velvet for the Electors. On the side of this Chamber is the Hall, where certain Ceremonies are observed which succeed the Election; and when they are over, the Emperor descends from the Hall, and goes to the Church, where he is Crowned.  
The Golden Bull is a Book of twenty four Leaves of Parchment, in Quarto, which are sewed together, and covered with another piece of Parchment, without any Ornament. The Seal is fastened to it by a silken String of many Colours, and is covered with Gold, so as it resembles a Medal: It is two Inches and a half in breadth, and a large Line in thickness. Upon the Seal is the Emperor Charles iv Seated and Crowned, holding a Sceptre in his Right-hand, and the Globe in his Left. The Shield of the Empire is on his Right, and that of Bohemia on his Left. And about it is written, Carolus quartus divinâ favente clementiâ Romanorum Imperator semper Augustus, and on each side near the two Scutcheons, Et Bohemiae Rex. On the Reverse there is a kind of a Gate of a Castle between two Towers, which apparently denotes Rome, this Verse being written about: Roma Caput mundi regit orbis fraena rotundi. And upon the Gate between the two Towers, Roma aurea.  
This Bull was given at Nuremberg, in the Year 1356. by the Emperor Charles iv with the consent of all the States of the Empire. The design of the Institutors was, that this Edict should be perpetual and irrerevocable, yet 
* Particularly in the Treaties of Westphalia.  many Innovations have been made since. It describes particularly the form of the Election of the Emperor, or 
† The Emperor, and the King of the Romans, in the sense of the Bull, are but one Person. In it he is often called Head of the Faithful, and first Prince of the Christian World. The Bull is written in Latin.  the King of the Romans, whom it frequently styles the Temporal Head of the Christian World. It regulates many things that relate to the Electors, touching their Rank, their Assemblies, their Rights and Immunities, the Right of Succession to the Electorate, and the Manner after which every one of them is to perform his Function in public Ceremonies. It ordains these Princes to assemble once in the Year to settle the Affairs of the Empire. The Elector of Saxony, in conjunction with the Elector Palatine, are declared Regent's, after the Death of the Emperor. But things, as you know, having been changed in favour of the Duke of Bavaria, that Elector pretends to the Regency. 'Tis a question whether the Vicariat be affixed to the Electorate, in which the Duke of Bavaria was invested, or if it remain to the House of the Counts Palatines.  
Now, there is a King of the Romans, he is perpetual Vicar and Heir of the Empire. It was for this reason that Philip II. had only the Kingdom of Spain for his share, and that Ferdinand his Uncle, who in the Life of Charles V was elected King of the Romans, came to be Emperor.  
Francfort is the place appointed by the Bull, for the Election of the Emperor. Nevertheless, Henry II. was chosen at Mentz, and Henry III. at Aix la Chappelle; 
This is no longer observed.  some have been also Elected at Cologne, and others at Ausbourg and Ratishonne. It was also ordained, that the Emperor should be first Crowned at Aix, which for a long time hath not been practised. Every Elector may have 
* On the day of Electing the Emperor, there is a whole Ox served in a Dish, roasted, larded, and stuffed with Wild Fowls and Venison. After the Feast the Ox is left to the People. Borjou Dign. Temp.  two hundred Men, as well for his Guard as his Attendance, during the time of the Election. And the Citizens of Francfort are to take care that no Strangers be found in their City at that time, upon pain of losing their Privileges. This Bull contains many Regulations, which I shall not at present relate.  
The famous Treacle of Francfort is made there by Doctor Peter, who is a skilful Apothecary, and in other respects a very curious Person. There are more than an hundred several Drugs that enter this Composition, which are to be seen ranged in Pyramids, on a long Table. The Doctor hath many Antiquities, and other Rarities, amongst which he highly values a Stone taken out of a humane Body, which is as big as one's head, and cost him 1600 Crowns.  
There are in this place a great number of Jews, but they are as beggarly as those of Amsterdam are rich. They wear their Beards piqued, and have black Cloaks, with puffed Ruffs, they go from Tavern to Tavern, to sell any thing to Strangers: but being reputed Thiefs you must take heed of 'em. Moreover here is a Task imposed on them, to run and fetch Water when any Fire happens in the City.  

Of Francfort, see further, p. 117.  You know, the Fairs of Francfort contribute much to the Fame and Riches of that City. There are Three in a Year, which bring a considerable Trade to it.  
The University was founded in the Year 1506, by Joachim and Albert of Brandenburg.  
I am, SIR, Yours, etc. At Francfort, Nou. 7. 1687.   

LETTER VIII.  
SIR,  
AS we took Coach at Francfort to proceed on our Journey, we observed the Coachman to put a little Salt upon each of his Horses, with certain little Ceremonies, which made part of the Mystery; and this, as he told us, was to bring us good Luck, and to preserve us from Charms and Witchcraft, during our Voyage.  
We passed the Rhine at Gernsheim, and after we had gone through Woods that were drowned, by the overflowing of that River, (which made the ways both dangerous and difficult) we found them very good between the End of this Wood, and the City of Worms, which is but two little Leagues. 
WORMS, an Imperial City.  This City is about three or four hundred Paces, on the left side of the Rhine, in an excellent Country, and most pleasant Situation. It is girt about with a double Wall, without any Garrison, or even Fortification that is worth Observation. 
* Worms was formerly an Arch Bishopric But Pope Zachary removed the See to Mentz, to punish the Archbishop Gervillian, who, contrary to his Faith, killed a Man, whom he invited out of the Camp of the Saxons, his Enemies, to have a familiar conference with him. Heiss. This is a poor Bishopric.  The Bishop hath a great Power there, though it be a free and Imperial City. It is near as large as Francfort, but poor, melancholy and ill peopled. They shown me a House that was lately sold for a thousand Crowns, which had been Let formerly for a thousand Crowns per Annum. There are many void places in this City, in which they have planted so many Vines, that they yield every Year fifteen hundred Foudres of Wine: the Fouder is a Cask which holds about two hundred and fifty English Gallons. They highly prise this Wine, and they have a Proverb, That it is sweeter than the Virgins Milk. The City presents it to Persons of Quality, as they pass by, as also Fish and Oats. The Fish is to show the Right of Fishing, which they have on the Rhine; but what the Oats signify I know not: it cannot be to represent their Territory, because they have none. The Lutherans have here a Church; and, besides that, they preach by turns with the Roman Catholics, in that of the Dominicans; the rest belong to the Roman Catholics, who carry not the Host publicly, nor make any Procession, except the Day after Easter. The Protestants, whom I will still call Calvinists to distinguish them from the Lutherans, have their Church at Newhawsel in the Palatinate, about half a League from the City; the Lutherans are not shy sometimes to christian their Children there, which is directly opposite to the Practice of the Lutherans at Francfort.  
They say, that a Lord of the House of Alberg, having brought a great many Jews from Palestine, sold Thirty of them for a Piece of Silver, at the City of Worms: where they were for a long time treated as Slaves, before they could obtain the Liberty which they at present enjoy in common with the other Inhabitants.  
The Church of St. Paul seems to be an ancient Building, but I believe that of St. John is the older. This last is built with very great square Stones, and its Figure is quite irregular. The Walls are above twelve Foot thick, the Windows are narrow, and there are Galleries all round the outside of the Building just under the Roof. There is but little Appearance that this was built for a Church: the Cathedral is a long Structure of a considerable Height, with a Tower at each of the four Corners; the whole Building is very massive, and embellished with Gothick Ornaments. They shown us a certain Animal, over one of the Doors of this Church, of which the People tell a hundred Stories. This Animal is as big as an Ass, and hath four Heads; one Head of a Man, one of an Ox, one of an Eagle, and one of a Lion: it lifts up the two first, and hangs down the other two. The right Foot before is a Man's, the left an Ox's, the two hinder Feet are of an Eagle and a Lion: and a Woman sits upon the Beast. If I durst penetrate into this Mystery, I think it might be conjectured, that this Hieroglyphic is a Chimaera composed of the four Animals in the Vision of Ezekiel, and that the Woman represents the Gospel.  
I took notice of a Picture, over the Altar of one of the Chapels of this Church, in which the Virgin is represented receiving Christ as he descends from the Cross, while several Angels carry the Instruments of the Crucifixion to Heaven. But either the Painter has forgot, or else the Angels have since brought back all these Relics.  
There is another very curious Picture, at the Entrance of the Church of St. Martin, over a movable Altar. This Picture is about five Foot Square. God the Father is on the Top of one Corner, from whence he seems to speak to the Virgin Mary, who is on her knees in the midst of the Picture: she holds the little Infant Jesus by the Feet, and puts his Head into the Hopper of a Mill: the twelve Apostles turn the Mill by a Wheel, with their Hands, and they are assisted by these four Beasts of Ezekiel, which we just spoke of, who work on the other side. Not far off the Pope knelt to receive the Hosts, which fall from the Mill ready made into a Cup of Gold. He presents one to a Cardinal, the Cardinal gives it to a Bishop, the Bishop to a Priest, and the Priest to the People.  
There are in the City two public Houses; one of which is called the Burgher's House, in which the Senate assembles twice every Week, about the Affairs of the State: the other is for the Magistracy, and is the Place where common Causes are pleaded. It was in the first that Luther made his Appearance on an occasion known to all the World. They tell us, that this Doctor, having spoke with much eagerness, and being besides heated by the fire which was before him, some body brought him a Glass of Wine, which he received; but such was his vehemence, that he forgot to drink, and without thinking of it, set it on a Bench which was by his side: they add, that the Glass immediately after broke without any Person's touching it, and it passed for current that the Wine was poisoned. I will make no Gloss upon this Story. But afterwards the Bench on which he set the Glass was broken, and some Pieces were taken out of it, which some zealous Lutherans keep in memory of their Master.  
We went also to see another House, which they call the Mint; in which, among other things, I observed a 
* These two Verses are written on the Top of the Leaf. 
Mira fides, pedibus Juvenis facit omnia recta,  
Cui pariens mater brachia nulla dedit.   Leaf of Parchment, in a square Frame, upon which there are twelve sorts of Hands written, very fairly, with many Miniatures and Draughts boldly traced with a Pen. It was written by one Thomas Schuveiker, who was born without Arms, and performed this with his Feet. They also show another little round piece of velum, about the bigness of a Guiney, upon which the Lord's-Prayer, without abbreviation, is written. But this is no extraordinary thing. I know a 
* Maximin Mossileni.  Man who wrote the same Prayer six times in the same compass, more distinctly. This House hath a long Portico, between the Arches of which hang great Bones and Horns. They say the Bones are the Bones of Giants, and the Horns the Horns of the Oxen which drew the Stones with which the Cathedral is built. And are not these very curious and venerable Pieces? The outside of the House is full of several Pictures, amongst which there are many of Armed Giants, which in the Inscription below are called Vangiones. We know very well that the People who formerly inhabited this part of the Rhine, were called Vangiones, as we find in Tacitus, and others. But I cannot tell the reason, why they would have these Vangiones to be Giants. Nevertheless, these great Men there make a great noise at Worms, they tell a thousand Stories of them, and when they have done, every one is at liberty to say what he pleases of them.  
We only passed by Frankendal, 
FRANKENDAL.  the Fortifications of which are pretty good, and would be better if they were lined; but they are forced to slope them too much, because the too soft and ill cemented Earth could not otherwise be supported. This defect is yet apparently greater in the Fortifications of Manheim. 
MANHEIM.  These two little places belong to the Elector Palatine. 'Tis but two hours Travel from one to the other. The situation of Manheim is its greatest Strength: For it is not commanded by any rising Ground, and is almost surrounded by the Neckar and the Rhine. There is a good Garrison in the Citadel, but the greatest Rarity that I found in it is the Temple of Concord. The Elector Charles Lovis, Father of Charles the Last, Deceased, caused this Church to be built, to serve in common for the Protestants, both Calvinists and Lutherans. But this Prince being of a pleasant Humour, and not very scrupulous about Religion, the first day they Preached in this Church, permitted a Curate of the Neighbourhood to Preach there also; who made rather an Encomium of the Prince, than a Sermon. But they pretended not then that this was to be continued by course, and after that time the Lutherans, with the other Reformists, solely made use of the Church. But in fine, this present Elector being a Romanists, hath thought fit to join those of his Communion with the others. And besides his Will, which is most strong and prevalent, he pretends this reason, that it is not contrary to the Will of the Founder, which he proves from the Harangue of the Curate. Therefore now the three Ministers of the three Religions, perform each in their turn the Service in the Church of Concord. They begin and end successively, in such manner as in three successive Sundays, each of the three Ministers hath the privilege to begin first, as also to be second or third. The Church is not great, but is very fine. The Pulpit is in common, when the Roman Catholics have ended Mass, they draw the Curtain, and hid the Altar.  
About forty Years ago, Manheim was but a little Village, Frederick, Father of Charles Lovis, caused it to be fortified, and named it Fredericksburg; at the same time this City was built, which resumed the name of Manheim, and was fortified also. All the Streets are in strait Lines, and in some are Trees planted, as in Holland. Manheim is a very pretty place. Every day at five of the Clock in the Morning, at Noon and at six in the Evening, there are hired Musicians, who sing part of a Psalm on the Tower of the Townhouse. They have such loud Instruments that they are heard all over the Town. This is done in most places of the Palatinate.  
When we left Manheim, after we had passed the Neckar, over a Bridge of Boats, we traversed a very fertile Plain, which continued for three hours, to the foot of the Mountains of Heidelberg. These Mountains make a long ridge as if they would hinder one's going further: Yet there we met with an opening, through which the Neckar goes out. This River is passed over on a covered Bridge, and you find the City of Heidelberg on the other side, which lies high and low amongst the Trees and Rocks. It is no very fine City, and I know not by what Spirit of Contradiction, they have built it almost all of Wood, whereas they might have had good Stone in abundance. The Prince's Palace is upon an ascent, it consists of many Pieces begun and not finished. 
* This City was Stormed, and utterly laid waste by the French, May 22. 1693.  The whole is built of hewn Stone, and there are some parts of this Structure of fine Architecture. They have made fine Gardens amongst the Rocks, but for all the care they have taken to adorn the place, it is still Melancholy and Irregular, if we take all together; and I think it would be praise enough, to call this House a magnificent Hermitage. It being not long since the Duchess of Orleans, Sister to the last Elector, and Inheritrix of some part of his Goods, caused the Furniture of this House to be taken away, for we found it very naked. All things were sold even to the Wine of the famous Tun, and apparently they had taken that away, 
The Colossus of Rhodes, saith Mr. Patin, did not hold more Water between its Thighs, than this great Tun Wine in its Entrails. It is, adds he, 31 foot long, and 21 high.  had not the Toy been too troublesome. They go up to it by a pair of Stairs of fifty Steps, and above there is a Platform of twenty Foot long, circled with a Balcony round about. The Arms of the Elector are placed in the finest part of the Tun. Bacchus in the largest Size, with I know not how many Satyrs, and other Drunkards of that kind, are there also. The Vines, the Grapes, the Glasses, and the Leather-Jacks are there to be seen, and make part of its Ornaments in basso releivo. And there are likewise many Jests and Apothegms in High-Dutch, written on this rich Subject.  
The misfortunes of the War, of which this Country hath been so often the Stage, have reduced it to a very poor condition, though it be naturally very good. All Religions are tolerated; but the Magistrates are all Protestants. In the great Church of this City, are to be seen many Magnificent Tombs of the Counts Palatines: That of Robert, King of the Romans, and Founder of the University of Heidelberg, is in the Choir of this same Church.  
You are not ignorant of the Loss which Heidelberg, sustained in the Year 1622. when its famous Library was transported to the Vatican.  
I am, SIR, Yours, etc. At Heidelberg, Nou. 12. 1687.   

LETTER IX.  
SIR,  
TWO good Hours on this side Heidelberg, we passed through whole Forests of Firr-trees, and afterwards met with many more. They set fire to them, cut them down and pluck them up as much as they can; but the Nature of the Soil produces them so fast, that they cannot root them out. All this Country is very poor, and Money is so scarce, that about Wiseloc● and Sintzheim, a Loaf of Wheaten Bread, weighing eight Pounds, cost but Twopences. We were four days coming hither from Heidelberg, and we scarce saw any thing but Firr-trees all the way; I believe there are not more in Carolina: there are I know not how many little Towns, which deserve not to be mentioned.  


WINSHEIM, an Imperial City.  
WIMPHEN, an Imperial City.  
PALEMBERG.   Winsheim is the best of them, and is a Free City as well as Wimphen. All the Inhabitants of both are Lutherans. I fancy, a more pleasant Assembly was never seen than that of the Burgo-Masters of the little City of Palemberg. These Sparks were in the same Tavern where we eat, which is the place where they ordinarily meet, when they have any important Affair, to debate; imagine you see a dozen or fifteen Peasants with pointed high-crowned Hats loaden with green and yellow Ribbon, with red or blue Waistcoats, and Ruffs or Cravats of black Taffata: their Hair cut round close below their Ears, and their Beards after the Mode of the Capochins. The whole Club is tipsy, their Elbows on the Table, every Man with a Glass in his hand, drinking without intermission, splitting of Causes, and every one striving to outbawl his Fellow; their Gestures and Postures are much more diverting, but such as cannot be expressed. In the mean time, it is not at all strange that they should love Drink so much in this Country, since they can have four great Pots of Wine for a Penny; for they know not what a small Measure means. If a Traveller demand a Cup of Wine as he goes by, they bring him a Jack enough to make ten Men drunk.  
The Tobacco and the Hops supply the place of Vines, when you approach this Place, and the mountainous Country gins to grow plain and lower; so that you may see the great and fair City of Nuremberg at a good distance. 
NUREMBERG, an Imperial City.  Before we came at it, we often found ourselves on the Banks of the little River of Pegnitz, which runs from it, but serves only to turn the Mills. It might without any difficulty be made navigable, and the Profit that would result from such an Undertaking would quickly recompense the Charge.  
But this defect doth not hinder Nuremberg from being a City of great Trade, very rich and well peopled. It is said to be twice greater than Francfort; and it hath seven other Cities in its Territory, with four hundred and eighty Boroughs and Villages. Its Fortifications are of little esteem in respect of those that are now in use: but it enjoys a profound Peace: and being in the Heart of Germany, its Neighbours preserve it while they defend themselves. Should the Emperor be Master of Nuremberg, as he is of his hereditary Countries, it would not be very advantageous to him: for at the bottom, as free as these little States are, they are nevertheless Slaves to the Emperor, being, at the same time, Fiefs of the Empire; they are made to contribute Men, Arms, and Money on occasion: and there are a thousand ways found to vex them, if they perform not the things required of them.  

It hath 6 Gates, 228 principal streets public Fountains, and 118 Wells, Gal. Gualdo.  Nuremberg is a very fair City, though the Structure of its Buildings is somewhat Gothic, and not at all agreeable to the true Rule of Architecture. The Houses are generally great, handsome and strongly built. Some are covered with Pictures on the outsides, and almost all the rest are of very fine hewn Stone. There are many Fountains of Brass in sundry places of the City: we saw a very magnificent one, which is yet at the Artificers house, on which there are Brass Statues to the Value of Seventy thousand Crowns, besides other Ornaments. The Streets are broad, clean, and well paved, but it is Pity they are not more straight. The Tradition of the Country will have Nuremberg to be built by Nero, and there is one of the Towers of the Castle which is called the Tower of Nero, but this is but a poor Argument; I rather think that Noriberga, called also in Latin Mons Noricorum, was derived from Noricum, the old Name of the Country, and the word Berg, which in high Dutch signifies a Mountain.  
The Castle is on a high Rock, though the rest of the City be flat enough. The Form of the Castle is wholly irregular, because they have been forced to make it agreeable to the Mass of the misshapen and unequal Rock. They assured us that the Well in it was sixteen hundred Foot deep, but none of us would believe them; they also told us that the Chain of the Bucket weighs three thousand Pounds. We saw in one of the Halls of this Castle, four Corinthian Pillars, about fifteen Foot high; which, they say, the Devil brought from Rome, upon a Challenge which a Monk made him. The Story would be too tedious to relate at length. They tell another of a famous Conjurer of the Country, who leaped on horseback over the Castle Ditches, and show the Print of the Horses Shoes on the Stones of the Parapet.  
The Ornaments which are used, at the Anointing of the Emperor, are kept in the Church of the Hospital.  
The Diadem or the Crown, called also the 
This is the Crown of Charlemagne, it weighs fourteen pounds.  Infula, is of Gold, and covered almost all over with precious Stones. It is not closed as the Imperial Crowns which they ordinarily paint to us. Suppose that instead of the Fleurets on Ducal Coronets, there are the Plates rounded on the top, which are joined by the sides, and make the Compass of the Bonnet. There are seven of them, and that before is the most richly adorned. There is a Cross on the top of all, and a Semicircle supported between the two head Plates behind, which is raised above the Bonnet, and joined to the top of the Cross. The Sceptre and Globe are of Gold, and they say that the Sword was brought by an Angel from Heaven. The Robe of Charlemagne is of Violet Colour, embroidered with Pearls; the Imperial Cloak is edged with Pearls, and strewed with Eagles of Gold, and a great number of Jewels: there are likewise the Cope, the Stole, 
* Embroidered with Stones.  the Breeches, the Stockings and the 
† covered with Plates of Gold.  Buskins. They also keep many Relics in this Church; and amongst others, the Iron Head of blessed St. Longin's Lance. They are not ignorant that the pretended Head of this Lance is to be seen in above ten other places of the World; but, say they, theirs 
‖ Lancea Domini reperta est in Antiochia à quidam rustico cui beatus Andreas & locum ostendit. Quidam cum ea totum exercitum letificavit, W. Roolwink.  came from Antioch; it was St. Andrew who found it; one Man with it discomfited a whole Army: it was the thing of the World which Charlemagne loved most. The other Lances are Counterfeits, and this is the true one: they make much of it as a precious Memorial, if they do not worship it as a Relic.  
Their Lance puts me in mind of their Arsenal, which is one of the most renowned in Germany. 
In the Year 1453, Mahomet II. besieged Constantinople, and battered it with many Pieces of Cannon of Four hundred pound Ball, there was one amongst the rest so heavy, that there were twenty Yoke of Oxen to draw it. Calvisius.  There are two great Halls in it, each of two hundred and fifty paces long, and well replenished with Arms. We counted three hundred Pieces of Cannon; but, to speak truth, the greatest part of the other Arms savour of Antiquity; Muskets and Harquebuses, Casks and Cuirasses in great Number: fine Hang for Arsenals, and this is all. There are many of those great Cannons of a monstrous Boar, which they call Mermaids and Basilisks; and the biggest of these Pieces carries a three hundred pound Ball.  
We also saw the Library; it is in a Cloister which formerly belonged to the Dominicans, and contains, as they tell you, twenty thousand Volumes. This was collected out of the Ruins of many Convents, in the Time of the Reformation. The most ancient Manuscript is of nine hundred Years; it is a Copy of the Gospels with the Prayers and Hymns formerly used in the Greek Church. The Character is very different from that now in use. 
It is a Treatise of Predestination.  I observed a Book which was printed at Spire, in the Year 1446. but there might be an Error in the Ciphers, for they shown us another of the Impression of Faustus at Mentz, in 1459. at the End whereof there is an Advertisement, by which it is said, That this Book was not written by the Hand, but was printed by an admirable Secret newly invented. 'Tis probable that this was the first Impression which was made at Mentz: and if it be so, there is no ground to suppose that another Book was printed at Spire, thirteen Years before: nor had Faustus any reason to boast so much of his new Secret. I have heard that there is another Impression of Durandus' Officiale at Basil, printed by Faustus in the same Year 1549.  
They keep in this Library many Rarities, and curious Antiquities, but they are not comparable to those that are in the Cabinet of Mr. Viati. We saw it in a great Chamber quite filled with divers Arms of all Countries, all Uses, and all Fashions. It is scarce to be conceived how a single Man, and he a private Person, who hath not the Means of a Prince or a very great Lord, could heap together so many things; for the Number is very great, and, I believe, brought from all the four Quarters of the World. He shown us the Experiment of a Windgun, which is a very pretty, but a most destructive Invention, because with this Engine great Mischiefs may be done a far off, and without any Noise. From this Chamber you may go into another, where there are rare Pictures, Medals, curious Works ancient and modern, Idols, Shells, Plants, Minerals, and other natural Productions.  
The Town-House is very great, and has a very beautiful and well-proportioned Front, but it wants a Court before it. When we went from thence, our Friends brought us to the City Cellar, which is two hundred and fifty Paces long, and contains, as they tell us, Twenty thousand Aums of Wine, that is to say, Twenty thousand middlesized Tuns. We must allow it to be a very fair Cellar: but the truth is, such People as we, know not how to enjoy all the Pleasures of it.  
The Germans are, you know, 
Germanorum vivere bibere est.  strange Drinkers; but there are no People in the World more obliging, more civil, or more officious, and yet they have terrible Customs as to the Point of Drinking. Every thing is done there by drinking, and they drink in all they do. There is not time given to speak three Words in a Visit, but presently comes the Collation, or at least some large Jacks of Wine, with a Plate full of Crusts of Bread hash'd with Pepper and Salt, a fatal Preparative for puny Topers. But before we proceed I must give you an account of those sacred and inviolable Laws that are afterwards to be observed. Every Draught must be a Health, and assoon as you have emptied your Glass, you must present it full to him whose Health you drunk. You must never refuse the Glass which is presented, and you must drink it off to the last drop. Do but reflect a little on these Customs, and see how it is possible to leave off drinking: And indeed they never make an end, 
* The Duke of Rohan saith in his Voyage, that the Germans have succeeded better than all the Mathematicians of the World in finding out the perpetual Motion, by the continual Agitation of their Cups.  but carouse in a perpetual Round: to drink in Germany is to drink eternally. Pardon my Digression, and judge of our troublesome Entertainment in the Cellar. You must do penance there for some time, and at last hid yourself behind the Casks, steal away and make your escape.  
You must further know, that the Glasses are as much respected in this Country as the Wine is beloved. They place them all en Parade. The greatest part of the Chambers are wainscotted, even to two thirds of the Walls, and the Glasses are ranged all about, upon the Cornish of the Wainscot, like Pipes of Organs. They begin with the Little, and end with the Great ones; and these Great ones are always used, and must be emptied at a draught, when there is any Health of Importance. At going out of the Cellar we went to Consort, where we hoped we should do nothing but sing, but the Bread, the Pepper, the Salt, and the Wine followed in such abundance, that an Air was no sooner finished, but the whole Company risen up to drink.  
Divers Habits of the Women at Nuremberg  
Vol. 1. P. 73.   depiction of women 
The Husband was in Black , with a Cloak over-laid with Lace, a great Ruff, and a little Crown of Gold Plate-Lace above his Peruke. But the Wife's Dress will be a little more difficult to describe. The best Account I can give you of it, is to tell you, That in framing to yourself an Idea of her Head-Tire, you must fancy a Mixture of Plate-Wire gilded, like a Bob-Peruke, half a Foot higher than her Forehead, and very much frizzed and swelled out on the Sides. This was ordered after such a manner, that in all the Thickness of this Bush there was no more space or distance between the Threads, than was sufficient to fasten to them an infinite Number of little Plates of Gold, round, polished and shining, which hung both within and without, and waved with the least Motion. Her Habit was Black, with long Skirts resembling the Hongrelines which were not very long since used in France. The Body of this little Cassock, which was cut very short, had a Gold Lace over all the Seams. The Skirts were full of little close Knots of black Satin Ribbon, and the straight Cuffs fell just on the Fist. Over this she had a Neck-band of Fine Antique Lace, cut before like a Man's Band, and ending in a Point behind, which reached down to the middle of the Back. She had besides a great Gold Chain on her Shoulders, just like the Collar of some Order, and such another Chain for her Girdle. Her Petticoat was short enough, and adorned below with Gold Fringe and Black Bonelace. We had the Pleasure to see this Fair one dance with a Senator in a great Ruff; and I believe at Japan there could not be found Customs more different from ours, than those which we observed at this Feast. I should never make an End if I should undertake to describe all the other Habits. But, as fantastical as all these Dresses might seem at first view, one might be easily accustomed to them, and every Habit appears handsome and becoming, when the Persons that wear them are of themselves beautiful and agreeable.  
There are not more industrious People in the World than the Artists of Nuremberg; some attribute to them the invention of 
* Some say that a Monk called Berthold Schwartz was the inventor. Others believe that it was one named Bertrand the Black of Chioggia. But Tavernier, and many other Travellers, pretend that this Invention came from China, as well as that of Printing. Luke de la Porta, is of the same Opinion. He adds, that the Augustins brought the use of both of them into Europe.  Fire-Arms, as well as that of Cannon-Powder. Others affirm that this Powder was invented at Chioggia, in the State of Venice; and there are some who pretend that it came from Denmark. All Europe is filled with the little Curiosities of Nuremberg. There are some of Wood, of Ivory, of Alabaster, and even of Paper and Starch. Their Houses are large and neat, and I believe there is not a Ceiling in all the City, which is not accompanied with an undersetting of very fine Joyner's-Work. I cannot express the Particular Kindness they have for Horns; for all their Houses are full of them. They are every where instead of Pictures, and other curious things. You often see in the finest Chamber, a Stag's, or Bull's Head, with a magnificent Pair of Horns hanging on the Ceiling, without any other Design but for Ornament.  
We were but poorly treated on all the Road from Heidelberg, and Straw was commonly our Bed. But we made ourselves amends at Nuremberg, where the Houses of Entertainment have very good Accommodations. They served us every Day with late Fruits, which I never saw any where else. We are here at the end of November, and commonly eat very good Fish.  
St. Sebald is the principal Church where they show a Wooden Crucifix which passeth for a Masterpiece. The Church of St. Laurence, is the biggest of all. These are both Gothick, but the last hath Eight Doors, which is look d upon as a singularity. The great Churchyard is worth the seeing: There are in it above Three Thousand Tombs with Epitaphs, and Coats of Arms wrought in Brass. No Jews are suffered to live in the City, because they formerly Poisoned the Fountains. They reside in a Village not far off, and may, for a small piece of Money, 
The Author of the State of the Empire relates, that the Burghers of Nuremberg have a singular and extraordinary Privilege to drown their Children.  come into the City, provided they departed the same day. The Roman Catholics are but few in number, and they have but half a Church, where they perform their Service after the Lutherans are gone out. Those who are called Calvinists, go a League from the City into the Marquisate of Onspach, and their Children are Baptised by the Lutherans, as at Francfort.  
We are preparing for our departure to morrow Morning, to continue our way to Ausbourg. I will also continue to write to you from thence, and will omit no opportunity to show how much I am,  
SIR, Yours, etc. At Nuremberg, Nou. 22. 1687.   

LETTER X.  
SIR,  

INGOLSTADT.  BEtween Nuremberg and Ingolstadt, the Ways are very bad and full of Forests; but when you come near this City, you find a Champion Country, excellently well tilled. Ingoldstadt is seated on the Danube, in the Duchy of Bavaria, of which it is the strongest place. It is indifferently large. The most part of the Houses are painted or whited without. The Streets are broad, strait, and well paved: And the whole City seemed pleasant enough, though it be poor and ill Peopled. They boast much of the Arsenal, but you must be put to trouble to obtain liberty to see it, so that we would not take the pains. I know very well that these inaccessible Arsenals are commonly the worst provided for; if they were well filled and furnished, they would make a public Show of them, rather than hid them. But they excuse themselves upon some secret Reasons, when they have nothing to show but Crossbows and rusty Firelocks. Nothing is more easily obtained, than the sight of the Arsenals of France, and it is as true, that nothing is finer and in better order.  
I observed at Ingolstadt, as in most of the other Cities of Germany, that every where near the Fountains there are Casks of Wood or Brass, mounted on little Carriages with four Wheels, which serve to carry Water when any Fire happens. And this is very wisely contrived; But they have another Custom throughout all this Country, which we thought much more troublesome than useful. These are certain Singers in the Night, who trot about every hour: They gave notice to beware of Fire, and afterwards exhort us to sleep quietly, without considering that their horrid Music keeps all the City awake.  

NEWBOURG.  We came from Ingolstadt to Newbourg, which is a very little City, and without Fortifications. It stands on the right Bank of the Danube, which is grown broad and rapid, tho' at this place, it be very far distant from its main strength. We passed it over a Bridge to go up into the City, at our entry we had a view of the Castle, which is seated on a Rock. Though the outsides are without Ornaments, yet they make a handsome appearance. Within there are great Apartments, even with the Ground, which are very convenient. But the Elector Palatine, to whom this Duchy of Newbourg belongs, was constrained to send all the Furniture of this Castle to that of Heidelberg, this last being stripped, as I have already told you: There remains only one Cabinet, which is full of rare Pictures and other Curiosities, which we had not time to examine particularly. I remember to have observed a round piece of very hard Stone, which weighs four pound, and was found in the Body of a Horse: I believe we might justly call this Stone a kind of Bezoar, since according to the report of Tavernier, the Bezoar is found in the Paunches of Cows and Apes, as well as in those of Goats.  
The Church of the Jesuits is the fairest in the City, but there is a pleasant thing to be seen in that of St. Peter, Mark d'Aviano, the Capouchin, famous for the Miracles which are attributed to him, was at Newbourg, about five Years since. As he went into St. Peter's Church, he perceived in a corner an old Nostradame of Wood, which was all mangled, and covered over with Dust. The zealous Father could not without Grief behold our Lady in so unbecoming a condition. He prostrated himself before her, and began to thump his Breast, and to break out into Lamentations. As he was in the midst of his Groans, he suddenly cried out. A Miracle! and protested that the good Lady had moved her Eyes, and looked on him. There were then many old Women in the Church, who ran together at the cries of the Capouchin, and with joy embraced the occasion that they were able to say, that they had been witnesses to a Miracle: There was no need of many Arguments to convince them, for they all cried out with the Capouchin, that our Lady had looked upon him: Immediately he went out with them, and filled all the City with the noise of the pretended Miracle. He was supported by the great ones, and after certain Preambles, which 'tis needless to relate, they went to St. Peter's in Procession: They cleaned the Statue, took the Sacrament off the great Altar which was dedicated to it, dressed our Lady in a splendid Habit, and placed her on that Altar, where she works Miracles by Millions. The Princes and the People load her with Presents, and People come from all parts in Pilgrimage to her.  

AUSBOURG, an Imperial City. Galeazzo Gualdo Pr. pretends that it was built presently after the Deluge.  The whole Country is very agreeable and extraordinarily good, between Newbourg and Ausbourg, except when you draw near to this last City, where the Lands are boggy and barren. Those of Ausbourg pretend that their City is the fairest of all Germany; they say also that it is greater than Nuremberg, but confess that it is not so well Peopled. If the Streets be broader and straighter, it is certain, that generally the Houses are not so fine; they are commonly plastered and whited without, or adorned with Pictures, I saw but very few of hewn Stone. All the floors of the Chambers are paved with a certain yellowish Marble which comes from Tirol; and the Ceiling are either of Joyners-work, with Compartments, or of a certain Cement, which polishes very well, and is very durable. But there is one great Irregularity in all their manner of Building. The greatest part of their Chambers are formed into Figures, which have no name, and are also spoiled by the ill placing of the Stairs, which take away great Corners of them.  
Ausbourg is the Capital City of Suabia. You know Augustus sent a Colony thither, after he had much enlarged and embellished it: It was called, Augusta Vindelicorum, to distinguish it from Augusta Treverorum, Augusta Taurinorum, and other Cities which likewise bore the name of Augusta. I observed somewhere among the Paintings of the Houses, the Anagram of Augusta Vindelicorum, which is Orta Deâ vulgum vincis. The People of this Country were called Vindelici, because they Inhabited about the Rivers of 
* 

Pergis ad Augustam quam Vindo, Licús; que fluentat.   

Respicit & latè fluvios Vindónque Licúmque  
Miscentes undas, & nomina littoris, unde  
Antiquam gentem, Populúmque, Urbémque, vocarunt  
Vindelicam. Ricchardus.    Vindo and Licus, which are at this day called Werda and Leck, and between which the City of Ausbourg is seated. It hath been pillaged so often, particularly in the time of Attila, that there are scarcely any remains of its Antiquities to be found. It is I know not how long since, they dug out a Pillar five or six Foot high, over which was the figure of a Pineapple. There were also found some Medals of Augustus, on the Reverse of which the like Pillar is to be seen. As it was the usual Custom, to mark out by some bounds, the increase of the Empire, on the Frontiers of the Conquered Countries, and to join to those limits some representations of the things which were most common in the new Provinces: It is very probable, that this was the use of the Pillar I just now mentioned, and of the Pineapple which is over it; for all this part of Germany is full of Pines and Firr-Trees. There is also a great deal of appearance, that for this reason Ausbourg bears a Pineapple in its Arms.  
Though there be hardly any thing good or regular in the Fortifications of this Town, yet hath it sometimes sustained very rude Assaults with much vigour. It is now Forty three Years, since the Swedes and French besieged it, and reduced it to Famine, without being able to take it. It is an Imperial City, and its Senate are half Lutherans, and half Roman Catholics: But this Senate is not the sole Master of the State; five or six Sovereigns share it among them. A good part belongs to the Bishop: Almost all the Territory is his Demesne; and he hath his Palace in the City, though he resides at Dillengen, where also the University is. You know that all the Bishops of the Empire are Temporal Princes in their Dioceses, except those of the Hereditary Countries of the House of Austria.  
The Roman Catholics here make public Processions, and carry the Host publicly. The Lutherans commonly pull off their Hats when they cannot avoid meeting the Host.  
They do all they can possibly, to avoid giving scandal to either Party. The Poor of both Religions are put into the same Hospitals, and are there assisted by their own Ministers without any opposition.  
The Jews have a separate place in the City; they are obliged to pay, when they resort thither, a Florin per hour, which is a piece of Money worth about three Shillings English.  
The Town-House is a great foursquare Building, of very fair hewn Stone. The Portal is of Marble, and almost all the Rooms are Wainscoted and Ceiled with Ash of Poland, which is very fine. The great Hall is extremely Magnificent. It is one hundred and ten foot long, fifty eight broad, and fifty two foot high; the Pavement is of green Marble. The Walls are covered with Paintings, between which there are many Devices and Emblems, which relate to the Government; but the Roof excels all the rest in Beauty. It consists of Compartments, the Squares and Panels of which are enriched with gilded Sculptures, and filled with Pictures and other Ornaments. And this is all so well ordered and performed, that it deserves a particular Observation.  
The Arsenal is very great: The two Halls below are full of Cannon, of which the greatest part are of Brass. There is a Culverin of Leather twenty six foot long, which is a six Pounder. The upper Stories are filled with good Arms.  
During the Wars of the Neighbouring Princes, in this last Age, the People of Ausbourg were careful to shut the Gates of the City early at Nights, which Custom was troublesome to Strangers, as well as to themselves. Wherefore they invented a kind of secret Gate, by which there was Passage to come in, without fear of surprise or other danger. This Gate remains still with all its Locks and Machine's, and is a thing very singular. I have drawn a design of it, which I could show you, but the description would at present be too difficult and tedious.  
The Trade of Ausbourg decayed, as that of Holland increased. Almost all Merchandizes which come from the Mediterranean, were formerly Landed at Venice, and from thence brought to Ausbourg, from which place they were dispersed through all Germany. But Holland hath taken away all, and distributes all: And Ausbourg suffers as well as Venice, Milan, Antwerp, and an infinite number of other Cities, which are at present as Poor as they were formerly Rich.  
Three Years after Gustavus the Great had made himself Master of Ausbourg, it was retaken by the Duke of Bavaria, who took away all the Churches from the Lutherans; in which case they remained from the Year Thirty five, till Forty eight, at which time all things were restored by the Peace of Munster. During which interval, the Lutherans had no liberty to assemble but in a College, from the Window of which they Preached to the People in the Court-yard. This College is still in their Possession; and I have seen a long Inscription, which is Graved under the Window, and gins thus: Praeclusis omnibus Evangelicorum templis, coelum tamen ipsis patuit, etc. All the Churches of the Professors of the Gospel being shut, Heaven was yet open to them, etc.  
You may see in the Bishop's Palace, the Chamber where the famous Confession of Ausbourg, was 
* In the Year 1540 by Melancthon and Luther; Melancthon drew it up.  presented to the Emperor Charles V From thence we went to the Cathedral, where there is a Gate of Brass, over which many places of the Sacred History are represented in basso relievo, and they made us observe in the History of the Creation, that it was the Virgin Mary who created Eve, and formed her out of one of Adam's Ribs.  
They are no less ingenious at Ausbourg, than at Nuremberg, and even they excel particularly in Clock and Goldsmiths-work, and in works in Ivory. We saw several Clocks which were valued at fifteen or twenty thousand Crowns, they are placed in cases that are very richly wrought. And besides what relates to the motion of the Stars, and the Division of the Times and Seasons, they adorn them with many other things, which would be both pleasant and profitable, were they a little more lasting.  
Their way of turning in Ivory is very curious, and deserves to be taken notice of with admiration. But one of the rarest Works which I saw here, I shall give you an account of: They are Glasses made hollow and well shaped, with a Ring made of the same piece in turning, which plays between the bottom and the bowl of the Glass, without possibility of taking off. There are an hundred with their Rings in a grain of Pepper of an ordinary size. 
These Glasses are in my hands.  I often examined this little Miracle of Art, and observed the stripes and traces of the Tool with which they are turned, so that I found no secret in it, but that it was the pure work of the Eyes and the Hand.  
They have here another very pleasant Bauble, which are Fleas fastened by the Neck with Chains of Steel. This Chain is so fine, that though it be near a Span long, the Flea will lift it up when it leaps. The Animal, Chain and all is sold for Ten Pence.  
The variety of Habits, and difference of their Colours, is yet greater here than at Nuremberg. This is an Affair regulated by the Policy of the Magistrates, and you may know the Quality and Religion of the greatest part of the People, by the difference of their . I will only represent to you the manner after which the Widow of a Roman Catholic Merchant wears Mourning for her Husband. She hath a Christening Kercher, well whited and starched, with Wings and Cornets ordinary for this Dress, a black Petticoat, and a black Cloak, made like that of a Man, which comes to her Knees. A great white Veil behind, which hangs at the tail of the Kercher, down to her Heels, enlarging itself by degrees; a piece of the same Linen with the Kercher, four foot long, and at least two broad, which is very much starched and stretched on a square of Wire-thred, fastened by the middle of one of its ends, just below the Lips, and covers all the fore part of the Body.  
Habits of the Women at Augsburg.  
Vol. 1. P. 86.  
A Country Wife  
A Peasant  
A Tradesman's Wife in mourning  
A Burgher's Daughter  
A Burgher's Wife in mourning  
A Doctor's Wife  
A Woman in mourning   depiction of women 
I am, SIR, Yours, etc. At Ausbourg, Dec. 2. 1687.   

LETTER XI.  
SIR,  
I Observed at my going out of Ausbourg, in many Gardens, that they cover all their Vines and Figtrees, carefully with Straw or Mats, to preserve them from the Frost; the Cold being sharper in this Country than in England, where we are not obliged to make use of these Precautions, though we lie nearer the North. It is certainly true, that the divers degrees of Heat and Cold, are not always proportioned to the diversity of Climates: There are terrible Winters in Canada in the midst of the temperate Zone, whilst every where else, under the same Climate, they enjoy a sweet and pleasant Air.  

MUNICH.  The Country is level enough between Ausbourg and Munich, but it is not very good; it is every where a mixture of Wood and Fields, and Firr-Trees. Munich is not above half so big as Ausbourg. It is a fine City, but ill fortified, and has no Trade; and without doubt little notice would be taken of this place, if the Elector's Residence were not there, and if that Prince's Palace were not extraordinarily Magnificent. Almost all the Houses of the City are painted on the outside, but instead of Painting in Fresco or in Oil, they make use of a kind of bad Plaster, which is liable to all the Injuries of the Wether: It wears off quickly, and rises hollow in many places, which maims all the Figures, and renders them very ugly.  
We had heard some Persons boast so much of the Jesuits Library, that it was the first thing we would see when we came to Munich; but it did not answer our Expectations. For, besides that, it is neither very good, nor well conditioned; they ordered a Brother Cut-Cabbage, who knew better what belonged to the Kitchen than to Books, to show it us. I confess I could not believe such gross Ignorance could lurk under the Habit of one who called himself a Jesuit. It was absolutely impossible for us to make him understand, what those Authors were whom we called the Fathers. He presently named all the Fathers of his Convent, to try if he could find out whom we looked for. And at last, with a scowling look, he prayed us to talk of something else. This is all I can tell you of the Library, and the Library-keeper, or at least of his Deputy: For it is not very probable that all the rest of this Society are of the same Stamp. However, they carry four fair and high Corners in their Caps; and their House may be said to be a stately Palace. Their Church is also extremely fine; it is of but one Body, very high, large, and strongly roofed; the Vestry is full of Riches, and they want no Relics: They shown us a Joint as big as that of an Elephant, or some huge Animal; and this great Bone, as we were informed, is in great veneration with them, as being one of the Joints of great St. Christopher's Backbone.  
Leaving the Church of the Jesuits, we went to that of the Augustine's, where are Pictures of great value.  
We went thence to the Cajetans, who have a great and fair Church. I observed in a Map of Munich, that this City bears a Monk for its Arms, 
This City was built in the Year 962. by Duke Henry. Otho enclosed it with Walls, in 1157.  and that it is called Monacum, or Monachium, because there was a Monastery on the place where it is built. We also went to see in the Church of Nostre Dame, the Tomb of the Emperor Lovis IU. This Sepulchre is adorned with many fine Marble and Brass Figures. Having advanced Ten or Twelve Steps from the entrance of the great Door of this Church, you behold one of the Stones of the Pavement, on which is a double Cross; and it hath been observed, that when you stand upright in this Place, the Pillars of the Church are so placed, that you cannot see one of the Windows, though they are very many. All that come to Worship in those Churches have a lighted Wax-Candle in their Hands; and that Candle is bigger or lesser, according to the Quality of the Saint, or their Devotion.  

There is an ample and exact Description of this Palace written in Italian by the Marquis Ran. Pallavicino. This Royal House contains, saith he, Eleven Courts, Twenty great Halls, Nineteen Galleries, Two Thousand Six Hundred great Glass Windows, Six Chapels, Sixteen great Kitchens, and Twelve large Cellars, Forty vast Apartments, which are even without one lower than the other, and in which you may distinguish Three Hundred great Chambers, richly Painted, Wainscoated, Paved, Furnished, etc.  The outside of the Elector's Palace is not suitable to the Magnificence within; and though the greatest part of its Apartments are well contrived, it may be said that they are all irregular: The reason is, that this great Mass of Building was not erected at the same time, every one wrought according to the Fancy of his Time, or his own private Judgement; and that hath been the cause of the dis-proportionableness of its Parts: But if it be taken altogether, it may certainly pass for a very beautiful Structure. You must not expect that I should give you an ample Description of a Place that is so vast, and so full of Rarities. I tell you in general, that all sorts of Beauties and Riches are found there in abundance. The great Hall of the Emperor's Apartment is One Hundred and Eighteen Foot in length, and Fifty Two Feet in breadth. We may justly say, that it is in every respect Magnificent. All its Pictures are highly esteemed: They are Histories, the Sacred on one side, and the Profane on the other; there are Latin Verses to every History. I will set down the Distich for Susanna, because I think it one of the best: 
Casta Susanna placet, Lucretia cede Susannae;  
Tu post, illa mori maluit ante scelus.   

* The Inscription over the Door runs thus: D. O. M. ad cultum virginum Principis salutatae genetricis genitoris sui, jam geniti, gignendi sacrum dicatum.  The little Chapel which is in the Apartment of the Electress, is full of precious things: There is nothing but Gold, Pearls, and Gems of all Fashions. They keep a a great many Relics there, among which I took notice of a piece of Gold Mohair, which, they say, was part of one of the Virgin's Robes.  
The Parlour of Perspectives is one of the finest things of this Palace: But the Hall of 
† The greatest part of these Antiquities were brought from Rome.  Antiquities is famous all the World over. I counted One Hundred Fourscore and Twelve Busts, and above Four Hundred other Pieces: All these are choice and rare, for the Beauty of their Workmanship, as well as their Antiquity. The greatest part of the Furniture of the Palace is very rich; and they affirm that there are Eight Millions of Crowns-worth of Tapestry in the Wardrobe, 
The Sum perhaps is a little too big.  besides what is in ordinary use. But the Treasury infinitely exceeds all the rest. There are many Services of Vessels of Gold, and many other precious Vessels. A prodigious quantity of great Pearls, Diamonds, Rubies, and other oriental Stones of exquisite Beauties; and an infinite number of excellent Pictures, curious Works, Medals, and other Rarities. I cannot forget the Cherry-stone, upon which you may distinctly perceive the graving of One Hundred and Forty Heads; nor the Boat of Palm-Wood turned into Stone, on which they have inscribed these two Verses: 
Palma fui coepi lapidescere, cymbala nunc sum  
Si non Neptunus navita Bacchus erit.   
Marble is to be found every where in this Palace, yet we must not cheat ourselves; for they have the secret with a certain Composition to make it; which becomes so hard, and polishes so well, that those who are not very skilful, take it for true Marble.  
They have made divers 
* Walks under Ground.  Galleries of Communication, which cross the Streets and Houses, by which they can go privately from the Palace to all the Churches and Convents of the City.  
I will say nothing of the Arsenal, because they have carried the Cannon, and most of the best Arms, into Hungary. We saw there the Tent of the Grand Vizier, which was taken in the last Battle, in which the Elector did so remarkably signalise his Valour. This Tent was vastly great, but no way fine: It is made of Cotton-Cloth printed, with the Strings, as they seem to me, of fine Satin, covered with Silk Brede, and the Lozenges of the same, placed from one place to another, between the Strings.  
I cannot tell you why this Country is not proper for Vines; there are none in it, and their ordinary Drink is Beer.  
They know no other Religion here but that of Rome: And they look upon Men as Wolves, that are not of that Profession. Their principal Devotion is for the Virgin: She is painted on all their Houses; every place is full of her Chapels and Oratories, and they bestow Divine Titles on her.  
I am, SIR, Yours, etc. At Munich, Dec. 4. 1687.   

LETTER XII.  
SIR,  
AFter we had for some time followed the Banks of the Iser, which is the River of Munich, we entered into a Forest; at our coming out of which, we saw distinctly the beginning of the Alps: Their Snowy tops are mingled with the Clouds, and resemble very much the swelling and foaming Waves of a tempestuous and raging Sea. If the Courage of those has been admired, who first exposed themselves to the Fury of that Element, here is matter enough of Astonishment, that any one should venture himself among the Cavities of such frightful Mountains.  
The same Day we departed from Munich, we came to a Village called Lagrem, which is at the Foot of the Mountains, and near to a little Lake of very fresh Water; there they gave us Fish, whose Names we knew not. The first thing our Host treated us with, was a Chafing-Dish full of Incense, with which he perfumed our Chambers; and truly we found more neatness in this little solitary Habitation, than in many great Cities in our Journey. After we had coasted the Mountains about Two Hours, we entered there, and for a long time mounted amongst the Rocks, Firr-Trees, and Snow. Nothing is more wild and dismal than these places. Sometimes you find some Fisher-men's Cottages, on the Banks of two or three Lakes, which are between the Mountains: But there is no sign of any tilled Land; and probably a little Goat's Cheese, with some Fish, is the principal Diet of these poor People. Their Cabins are made of the Roots of Firr-Trees, well joined together, and their Boats are framed of the same Trees hollowed. They gave us Goat's Flesh, and great Salmon-Trouts in the Village of Mittenwald, which is Three Leagues farther. This Village is in the middle of a pleasant Plain, and the Rocks which environ it are extraordinary high. Our Host showed us some Balls, or brown Masses, about the bigness of a Hen's Egg, or less, which are a kind of soft and imperfect Bezoar, and are commonly found in those Parts, in the Stomaches of the Goats. The good Man assured us of their great Virtues, and that he often sold them to Travellers. He valued them at Ten Crowns apiece; and I believe we should have done him a Courtesy, if we had taken Five or Six which he had, at that price.  
A little farther we met a very pleasant Troop of Beggars; when they perceived us at a good distance, one of them, who carried a Tree loaden with Red Fruits, planted it in the middle of the Way, and sat down by the side of it; a little Demidevil in the shape of a Crocodile, fastened himself to the Tree, and a Girl with long and dishevelled Hair, approached to it; an old Fellow clothed in Black, with a Peruke and Beard of Moss, stood at a little distance, with a young Boy clad in White, who held a Sword. When they thought we were near enough, the little Devil opened the Comedy with a Balderdash Song, and we could without difficulty Divine, that all was to represent the History of the Fall. One of us as he passed by the Old Man, asked him, since he kept at a distance from them, whether he was of the Company; the poor Mortal answered coldly, That he was God the Father, and that if we would stay a little, we should see him act his part, with his little Dagger-carrier, which was St. Michael the Archangel. Behold the Product of the representations which they make of the Deity!  
A quarter of an Hour after this fine Rencounter, we passed by the Fort of Chernitz, which is built between two inaccessible Rocks, and which separates the County of Tirol from the Bishopric of Freisinghen. This Bishopric is in Bavaria; and Tirol is one of the Emperor's Hereditary Provinces. We came very late to the Village of Seefeld, after we had made many Turn and Wind among the Mountains. There is a Convent of Augustine's in this Village, and you may see in their Church two or three pretended Miracles, with which they make no small noise.  
They tell of a certain Gentleman, named Milser, who lived at the Castle of Schlosberg, about a quarter of a League from thence; and was very much dreaded in this Village, that he was so vain as to desire to communicate with the great Host, which is only for the use of the Clergy: They endeavoured to persuade him out of this Fancy, but all in vain. When they had put the Host into his Mouth, it cast out, as they say, a Flood of Blood, and at the same time the Legs of the Communicant sunk into the Pavement up to the Knees: He would have supported himself on the Altar, but the Stone gave way, and softened under his Hand, and the poor miserable Man had been swallowed alive, if he had not been retrieved by a speedy Repentance. The Augustine's show this pretended Host, chewed, and bloody, in a Repository of Glass. They show also the print of a Hand on one of the Stones of the Altar, and a Hole in the Pavement of the Church near the same Altar, as of two Legs sunk into soft Ground. They say that this Host worketh Miracles; and they find it not inconvenient to their Convent.  
Two good Leagues on this side Seefeld, we began to descend, and three quarters of an Hour afterwards, we arrived in a deep Valley, which was at least a Mile in breadth. The River Inn glides pleasantly along; and waters many not unhandsome Villages. We turned to the left in this Valley, and followed always the Foot of the Mountain. And a little League farther, they made us observe a strait and cragged Rock, which they said was above an Hundred Fathom high, and was called The Emperor's Rock. About three quarters of the height of this Rock, there was a Nich dug, 
See Stephen Pegius in his Hercules Prodicius.  in which there was a Crucifix, and a Statue on each side of it. They say that Maximilian I. being in chase of a wild Goat, alighted just at this place from the top of the Rock, which joins to the Mountains behind; and that the Emperor not daring to remount his Horse, was feign to have recourse to Machine's to get down.  
Inspruck is but Two short Hours beyond the middle of the Valley, 
INSPRUCK.  upon the River Inn: You pass this River over a Bridge before you enter the City; and it is therefore called Inspruck, that Word having the same signification in High-Dutch, as Aenipons, or Aenipontum in Latin.  
There are very fine Houses at Inspruck, but the manner after which they cover them, seems at first to be troublesome to those who are not acquainted with them; for not only the Roofs are flat, but instead of the Rafters rising to a Point, they are reversed, and the Rain falls into the middle of the Roof.  
After the Duke of Lorraine had the misfortune to lose his Estates, the Emperor gave him the Possession of Tirol; and the Residence of this Prince was at Inspruck, in the Palace which was formerly the Archduke's. This Palace hath many Conveniencies, and is of a sufficient extent, but it was built at several times, and hath neither Beauty nor Regularity.  
They showed us here one thing singular, of which I will endeavour to give you the most certain Account I could any way learn; though all my Industry to that purpose signified but little. The House which they call the Chancery, is on the Place in the midst of the City. The Portrait of this House is like a little Porch without, to a Roof which is supported by the Wall of the House; and they assure us that this Roof is covered with Plates of Gold. This is what they told us of it. A Rebellion, and almost general Sedition being raised against an Archduke called Frederick, whom they particularise no otherwise; that Prince was forced to hid himself, but not being willing to go far off, that he might be ready to Act, in case his Affairs should be in a better Posture; he engaged himself, say they, to serve a Miller in a Village of the neighbouring Mountain. In effect, the Troubles happened to be appeased, and Frederick was recalled. But there was still an Evil Spirit amongst some of them, that jeered him, and gave him the Nickname of Empty Purse; to show therefore that he was not so poor as those People imagined, he affected to be prodigal of Gold, in employing that precious Metal on so vile a thing as that you now heard of.  
This History contains nothing impossible, and it was related to us for a certain Truth, by People who seemed to me Wise and Sensible: nevertheless, to speak freely, I cannot but suspect it. I believe no Author ever writ of it, and so singular a thing could not have been omitted. Perhaps something not unlike to this did really happen, which might give occasion to this Tradition.  
I could not touch the Roof, because it is a little too high, but I have attentively looked upon it, and saw distinctly that the Plates of Brass are placed on the Timber, and serve for Tiles; and I perceived also that each of these Plates is covered with another thin one of other Metal, which seemed to me to be about a Line in thickness. If these last Plates are not of Gold, I am sure they are gilded; but if there be but a simple Gilding, why Metal upon Metal? and why could they not also gild the Brazen Tiles?  
The Roof may be about Fifteen Foot square; and if it be of Gold, I find by calculation that it cost about Two hundred thousand Crowns.  
It was, as they say, the same Frederick, who caused Twenty eight fair Statues of Brass to be made, which are in the Church of the Cordeliers. There are Emperors, Arch-duke's, Dukes of Burgundy, Two Empresses, and Two Princesses, whom they knew not who they were: All are bigger than the Life. There is also to be seen in this Church a magnificent Tomb of the Emperor Maximilian I.  
We went also to see Amras, which is a House of Pleasure of the Archduke's; This House is a good half Hour from Inspruck, at the Foot of the Mountain; it hath no Beauty on any side, that we could observe, and its Situation is the only thing that makes it pleasant. They have taken away all the Furniture of ordinary use, but we found galleries full of fine and very rare things. They led us presently into a large Hall, where truly the Arms were more curious than useful. They made us take notice, amongst other things, of an extraordinary great and heavy Lance, which the Archduke Ferdinand used in Tournaments. They said that Prince 
* The same is related of Lionardo du Vinci, a Painter of Florence.  could stop a Coach and Six Horses, by taking hold of a Spoke of the Wheel; and that he broke with his Hands, two Crown-Pieces joined together: and I know not how many other prodigious things, more difficult to be believed than the History of Frederick.  
We went out of this Hall into a Gallery, where were to be seen many Princes upon their best Horses, with all their Armour, and all the Ornaments they used in Tournaments. They also kept there the Skin of a Serpent, which is Fifteen Foot long, and which was taken near Ulm, on the Bank of the Danube. At the end of the Gallery you go into a Chamber, filled with Spoils and Arms taken from the Turks. A Bassa and an Aga of the Janissaries, are represented on their Horses, with the same Equipage they had when they were taken. Their Habits are very rich; and the Harness of their Horses is yet much richer; they are loaded with Ornaments of Gold and Silver, Precious Stones, Damask-Works, and other Arabian Embellishments.  
From this they brought us into another Gallery, in which was a double Rank of great Cupboards, which were joined by the Backs and Sides, and which filled the middle of the Gallery, even to the top, so that there was but a little room left to walk round. The Three first Cupboards were full of Works of Alabaster, Glass, Coral, and Mother of Pearl. In the Fourth were Medals and Money of Gold and Silver. The Fifth was garnished with Vessels of Porcelain, and Sealed Earth. In the Sixth were many little Cabinets very rich, of curious inlaid Works; the Boxes were filled with Medals, and little Works of Agate and Ambergreese: There are Seven great Volumes covered with Black Velvet, with Plates and Clasps of Silver; and instead of Leaves they contain flat Boxes, which enclose a great number of Medals, so that these seven Volumes contain a complete History. In the seventh Cupboard are ancient or curious Arms: I I observed a Cross-bow which included four and thirty Bows, and discharged thirty four Arrows at a flight. The eighth is full of Animals, Plants, and other Productions of Nature. That which is esteemed the greatest Rarity, is the Horn of an Ox, which is six Inches diameter. There are also Works of Wood, of Ivory, and of the Pen, in the three following Cupboards. The twelfth is filled with Manuscripts, and curious Books. It would grieve one to pass this over slightly, because those who show it know not its worth. In the thirteenth are only works of Steel, and particularly mysterious Padlocks, and other Locks of curious Invention. You see in the fourteenth, Stones which represent Trees, Fruits, Shells, and Animals, all which are the pure product of Nature. The fifteenth and sixteenth are full of all sorts of Clockwork, and Instruments of Music. That which follows is full of precious Stones, but unwrought, and with a great deal of unprepared Metals and Minerals. In the eighteenth are many small Vessels of different Materials, and a very great number of the finest Shells in the World. The nineteenth is the most precious of all, it is full of Vessels of Gold, Crystal, Agat, Chalcedony, Onyx, Cornelian, Lapis Lazuli, and other precious Stones, all of it enriched with Gold and Diamonds, in basso releivo, and other Ornaments of most curious Workmanship. The twentieth and last is filled with Antiquities, Sepulchral Lamps, Urns, Idols, etc. They also keep here a piece of a Rope about the length of your hand, and tell you, that it is a piece of the Rope with which Judas hanged himself.  
There are an infinite number of things fastened to the Ceiling and the Walls. The Bow of Noah, of the Bassan, is the most esteemed amongst the Pictures, and it effectually is an admirable Piece. They say the last great Duke of Tuscany would have given an hundred thousand Crowns for it. Besides the Medals which I have told you of, and whose number is infinitely great, there is above a great Mule's Load, that lie huddled together in a Chest. When we parted from hence they brought us to the Library, which we found in very bad order, and our Guide could tell us nothing at all. From the Library we passed into a Gallery, where there is a great number of Statues, Busts, and other Pieces of Antiquity, and we saw afterwards a great many Chambers hung round with Pictures of great Price.  
This Bill of Parcels is a little long, but I hope it will not be tedious to you. At last I must not forget to tell you of a Servant at our Inn, 
At the Golden-Hart.  who deserves to be ranked with these Rarities. This Fellow stretches his Arm on the Ground, and a Man of good Stature stands upon his Hand; he lifts him up with this Hand only, and carries him from one end of the Room to the other.  
I am, SIR, Yours, etc. At Inspruck, Dec. 7. 1687.   

LETTER XIII.  
SIR,  
A Small League from Inspruck, we re-entered into the Mountains, and for seven hours together did nothing but ascend; this was the most troublesome day's Journey we had all the way. A place seemed to us to be amongst the Clouds, which a little while after we saw below us. At length we came very late to a little Village, which is not yet at the top of the Mountain. It is called Grusse, that is, the Salutation; and it was so named because Charles V and Ferdinand his Brother met in this place: you may find the Story about two hundred Paces from the Village, on a Marble Stone, which was placed exactly where these two illustrious Brothers embraced each other.  
We had for Supper divers sorts of Wildfowl and Venison: almost all the Hares here, as well as the Foxes and Bears, are white; the Patridges are likewise so for the most part: there are a great many Heath-Hens, Pheasants, and other great Fowl, which they call Schenhakn, or Cock of the Snow. All these sort of Wildfowl have their Feet velvetted about the Claws, with a kind of Furr, which I cannot call either Hair or Feathers, but so thick as the Snow cannot pierce it.  
The Mountain is called Brennerberg, which signifies a fiery Hill; and the reason is, that besides the Thunders which are frequent in Summer, there are Winds sometimes which pierce and burn. They force themselves into the Throats or Passages of the Neighbouring Mountains, as into Pipes; and these various Torrents of the Air shock one another so impetuously, that they produce roaring and furious Hurricanes, which tear up both Trees and Rocks by the Roots. They say, that Travellers are sometimes constrained, to wait many days till these Storms are over. As for us, we left this unpleasant Quarter the next day, and about two hours from thence, came to the highest accessible part of this Mountain. There we saw a thing very remarkable: It was a great Spring which falls upon a Rock, and straightway separates itself into two Currents, which in a little time after became two considerable Rivers. The one turns to the South, and disgorges itself into the Inn, near Inspruck. The other runs Northward, and after it hath passed Brixen and Bolsane falls into the Adige, a little above Trent. We dined the same day at Steertzingen, where they gave us Oysters of Venice, and some Flesh of a certain Beast called Steinbokt, which is between a He-Goat and a Do, and is most delicate Food. At this Town we turned out of the direct way to Trent, because it is dangerous, by reason of the Precipices, and took that of Brixen, which is not so rough, and is the most frequented.  
This day we met more than an hundred Wagons which came from the Fair of Bolsane; they were almost all drawn by Oxen. I observed that the Cloven Feet of these Cattle were both parts shod with Iron. The Peasants of these Mountains have little Carts with two Wheels, which they draw themselves, and which they make use of to fetch Salt from Hall, which is a little City in the Valley of Inspruck. There are Salt-Pits there, the Water whereof being boiled, turns to Salt.  
The Habits of these Mountaineers are the most pleasant in the World: Some of them have green, others yellow and blue Hats; and in some places it is difficult to know the Men from the Women. But as we change Countries, we may in all things observe the variety which reigns in the World. We find not only new Languages and new Customs, but also new Plants, new Fruits, new Cattle, and a new Face of the Earth. Almost quite throughout Tirol, the Sheep are black, in some places they are of a red tawny, and in others altogether white. There are some Provinces in which they have Horns; and others, where a horned Sheep would be looked upon as a Monster. We observed also many differences in Beasts of the same kind: Nor are the Humours of Men without their Varieties. Not to leave the example of the Sheep; I know some Provinces, as that of Poitou, where the Milk of these Creatures is preferred before that of the Cows. 
Montague saith, the Tartars prefer Mares-Milk to all other Milk.  In most others they will not trouble themselves to Milk them, so little do they value their Milk. I once lived a considerable while in a Country, where, when a Sow Pigs, if there be any white ones they drown them, because they believe, that all the white Pigs are Meazled. I have been also in another Country, where the black Hogs were in less esteem than others. In Normandy the Milk of a black Cow is looked on as a specific Remedy; the Doctors prescribe it for such, because the black Cows are less common than the red. And in some places of your Country it is quite contrary, they most highly esteem the red Cow's Milk; the cause is plain, because the Cows are almost all black. Some can endure to look on nothing but what they are accustomed to see; and others value nothing but what is rare and unknown. Custom and Prejudice domineer over the World, and fantastical Humour reigns every where with them.  

BRIXEN.  Brixen is yet in Tirol, it is a very little City, notwithstanding it is a Bishopric, and the Bishop resides in it. I cannot tell you the reason why the best Lodgings in this Country are always in the uppermost Story. It is true, that there you have less noise, but the trouble to get up to them is an inconvenience.  
The Lady of Newburgh  
Vol. 2. P. 109   depiction of the Lady of Newburgh 
When we entered into the Valley of Bolsane, we were astonished to find the Air as sweet as could be imagined. The Vineyards were all green, as well as the Willows, the Roses, the Mulberries, and a great number of other Trees. A true Spring in the middle of Winter. This proceeds from its being sheltered from ill Winds, or from some other circumstance of the Country.  
Bolsaner is in the Bishopric of Trent; 
BOLSANE.  it is a very little City, and its Fairs are all it can boast of. There are four in the Year, and each lasts fifteen days; in which the Merchandizes of Germany and Italy are exchanged. We observed in the Roof of the Body of the great Church, a round Hole about three foot diameter; round about which is a kind of Garland, which is tied with Ribbons of several Colours, and on which I know not how many great Wafers hang. They told us, that on Ascension-day, there was a kind of Opera in this Church, and that a Man which represented Jesus Christ, was lifted up to Heaven through this hole.  
All the Valley of Bolsane is full of Vineyards, and the Vines are highly esteemed by the People of the Country; but Strangers are not pleased with them, because of their sweetish Taste. It is but a good days Journey between Bolsane and Trent, through the Valley which is very fruitful and pleasant. From place to place, near the Vines, are little Huts of Straw, which are supported by three high Firr-Poles, placed like a Trevet; there they hid themselves with a Carbine, in one of these little Baracques, and kill the Bears which come down from the Mountain to eat the Grapes.  

TRENT.  Trent is a little City, not much bigger than Bolsane, and is almost situated after the same manner. It is founded on a flat Rock of a kind of white and reddish Marble, of which most of the Houses are solidly built. This City hath many times been laid waste, by the Inundations to which it is subject. The River often overflows, and the Brooks of Levis and Fersena, tumble sometimes from the Mountains with such a terrible impetuosity, that they drive before them great Rocks, and roll them even into the Town. Trent is begirt with a single Wall, and the Adige runs by the side of it. They boast of the Bridge which is built over this River, without having any thing extraordinary to show. They recommended to us the Bishop's Palace, as a great and splendid Edifice; and I remember I have formerly heard the same things said of it: But these Reports created in us false Notions of that House, which is low, and but of a very indifferent size. The Bishop is a Temporal and Spiritual Lord in his Diocese, which is of a large extent. Some place it in Italy, others make it part of Tirol: But these last deceive themselves, if we may believe the People of the Country, for they say Trent is in Italy, though the Bishop be a Prince of the Empire; and the common Language of Trent is Italian.  
They showed us in a Chapel of the Cathedral, the Crucifix under which the Synod was sworn, and promulged: It is as big as the Life, and, they say, it bowed its Head, to testify the Approbation which it gave to the Decrees of that Assembly. They add, That no Man ever knew what it was made of; so that many doubt whether it were made with Hands. They are about to take it from the dark Place in which we saw it, and place it in a magnificent Chapel, which will shortly be finished; where they expect it will do more Miracles than ever: It is called by way of Eminency, The Holy Crucifix. From thence we went to St. Marry Major, which yet is but a little Church. It is built of a kind of base Marble, whose Squares are only cut a little less; and it was in this place the Council sat. The Organs of this Church are extraordinarily great. They played to us many new Airs, and counterfeited the Cries of a great many Animals: They beat a Drum, and did I know not how many other things, which have little relation to this place, or to the gravity of the Council, which is represented in a great Picture hard by. 
Rigord, Physician and Historiographer of Philip Augustus, writes that in 1180, the Jews of Paris tore by Whipping, and Crucified a Boy of 12 Years old, named Richard, the Son of a Citizen; that the Criminals were put to death; that all the Jews were driven out of the Kingdom, and young Richard was canonzied. R. Dumont continuer of of the Chronicle of Sigibert. Rob. Gagum, Library-Keeper of Lovis XII. Duplerick, and many others, report the same Story. Mezeray saith, that Lovis Hattin recalled the Jews, and that Nation being accused for poisoning the Fountains and Wells in 1321, were banished for ever by Philip V the Edict yet remains.  Afterwards they carried us to the Church of St. Peter, to see the little Saint Simonin in his Chapel. They say that in the Year 1276, the Jews stole the Child of a Shoemaker, whose name was Simon, and after they had shed his Blood in a most cruel manner, to serve at the Celebration of one of their Feasts, they threw the Carcase into a Water-Pipe (which passed at present to the House where the thing was done, and where their Synagogue was at that time), and that the Body was carried by the Current into the River, and taken up by Fishermen. In a Word, the whole Villainy was discovered; the Jews were convicted, Thirty nine of them hanged, and the rest banished the City for ever. Sixtus IU. who was then Pope, being informed of the whole matter, thought fit to Canonize the Child, and gave it the name of Simonin, the diminutive of Simon, the Father's Name. The Body was embalmed, and is to be seen openly in a Case which is upon the Altar of the Chapel dedicated to him. They keep also in an adjoining Cupboard, the Knife, Pincers, and Four great Iron Needles, with which his Butchers tormented him; and Two Goblets of Silver, in which they drunk his Blood. Thus the Jews were expelled. But some Years after they obtained permission to abide in the City Three Days to do Business, and they assured me, that these Three Days were reduced to Three Hours, for their obstinate Defence of Buda in the last Siege. They have painted this Story at Francfort, under the Bridge Gate, to load these miserable People who live in that City, with new Reproach; they have added other infamous Figures, where the Devil and Swine are represented mocking and laughing at the Jews. I forgot to tell you that the little Simonin was but Twenty eight Months old when he was thus Martyred. I remember the two last Verses of an Epitaph on the Tomb of a young Lady in the Church of St. Mark; I believe they will not displease you. This young Wife says to her Husband, 
Immatura peri, sed tu diuturnior annos  
Vive meos, conjux optime, vive tuos.   
I am, SIR, Yours, etc. At Trent, Dec. 13. 1687.   

LETTER XIV.  
SIR,  

ROVEREDO.  WE passed through the little City of Roveredo, where there is a great Trade of Silk. Bourguetto is not far off, which is the last Village of the Trentin, and Ossenigo the first of the State of Venice; a little Cross of Wood makes the Separation between these two Sovereignties. A little on this side of Roveredo, we traversed a Country all full of lose Rocks, scattered here and there, as if an Earthquake had thus sowed them from the Ruins of some Mountain: This is called the Wood of Roveredo, though there be not so much as the Branch of a Tree in it. The Passage is sometimes dangerous, by reason of Thiefs, as well as the Forest of Vergnara, which is between Ossenigo, and the Fort of Guardara. Our Messenger advised us to take a Convoy in this last Passage. When you are come into the States of Venice, you find no more of those Stoves, of which Germany is full; and you find a sensible change in every thing.  

CHIUSA.  We were constrained to lodge in a little Village called Seraino, because it was too late to get to Scluse. That is a very considerable Fort, whose Situation is something like that of the Scluse which we met between Geneve and Lions, on the River Rhosne; I fancy I have seen the Description of it in your Closet. The first is at the Foot of a high Rock; the way which leads to it is dug out of the craggy part of the same Rock; and on the other side is a Precipice, at the bottom whereof rowls the Adige. After we had passed this Fort, and had for some time followed the Banks of that River, which glides along among high Rocks, we found the Heaven opened, and entered into a vast Plain; whereas ever since our Departure from Munich, we had been enclosed between the Mountains.  
This Plain is stony and barren in divers Places: There are in it some Olive-Trees, and White Mulberries for the Silkworms; the Vines eaten planted at the foot of Cherry-Trees, and young Elms, and they join themselves in Garlands from Tree to Tree. We passed the Adige in a Ferry-Boat, two good Leagues from Seraino; and a quarter of an Hour after, 
VERONA.  we plainly perceived Verona, where we arrived the same Day. By what we saw at our entrance into it, we judged it to be but thinly Peopled. There are great void places on this side, and Grass growing in the Streets, and the greatest part of them not paved: It's true, the rest of the City is not like this part; but putting all together, Verona looks like a poor place; and indeed there is but little Trade in it, and those which live on their Rents make no great Figure. If there be some fine Buildings, it is certain that the Houses in general are very low and unequal. The greatest part of the Balconies are of Wood, so loaded with little Gardens in Pots and Cases, that it seems dangerous to pass under them: The Streets are dirty, and almost all narrow. In a Word, This City is not at all fit to please the Eyes of a Traveller. Nevertheless it is very great, in a good Air, and its Situation is admirable. As it yields but little satisfaction when you behold it near, and take a particular view of it; so much the more will you admire it, when you look upon it from some eminency. We went up to the Castle of St. Peter, which is on a rising ground, within the Compass of the Walls, and we could not give over viewing it from this Place; where we had a full prospect of it, and were charmed to behold that admirable Garden of Pleasure, in the midst of which it is seated. The Adige crosses it, and Four fair Stone Bridges make the Communication between the two Parts, into which the River divides it. The Castle of St. Felix is behind that of St. Peter, and both together command the City. The other Fortifications of this place are much neglected, and very irregular.  
The Amphitheatre of Verona is a thing so much the more surprising, because we do not frequently meet with such Monuments of antiquity. 
* The outward Wall or Front.  The Enclosure is all destroyed, but they have taken care to repair the Benches, according as they fell to decay; there are Four and forty of them, and I counted Five hundred and thirty Paces in the highest round, and Two hundred and fifty on the lowest. Every Step is near a Foot and a half high, 
See the little Treatise which Justus Lipsius hath writ of Amphitheatres.  and is about Twenty six Inches in breadth: This last Distance could not be less, that so those who sat behind might not be troublesome to the others with their Feet. At every end of the Arena, between the Benches, there is a Portal of Twenty eight Foot high, by which the Entrance is to the Arena out of the Street; and above every Portal a kind of Tribune or Platform of Twenty Foot long, and Ten broad, closed before and on the sides with a Balcony of Marble. 
† Others attribute it to the Emperor Maximin. Euseb.  It is commonly said that this was the work of Augustus, but I find but little Proof of it. You see still remaining a Triumphal 
* The Inscription of this Arch can no more be read. See how it is related by N. Vignier, in his Historical Library. Colonia Augusta Verona Gallieniana. Valeriano. II. Et Lucilio Coss. muri veronensium Fabricari, & die III. Non. April. dedicati. pride. no. Decemb. jubente sanctissimo Gallieno. Aug. N.  Arch, and some Ruins of Ancient Monuments.  
The Cathedral is a little dark Church. Pope Lucius III. is interred there; and they have written for an Epitaph on his Tombstone, Ossa Lucii III Româ pulsus invidiâ. I expected to have found another, which is more ingenious, which I remember I have read somewhere: 
Luca dedit tibi Lucem, Luci; Pontificatum  
Ostia; Papatum, Roma; Verona, mori.  
Immo Verona dedit tibi Lucis gaudia; Roma,  
Exilium; curas, Ostia; Luca, mori.  You know this Pope had great Broils with Frederick Barbarossa, as well as Alexander III. his Predecessor. But these were not the only Cause of his leaving Rome: He was driven out by the Magistrates, and by the 
* 
Lucius est piscis rex, atque Tyrannus aquarum  
A quo discordat Lucius iste parum.  
Devorat ille homines, hic piscibus insidiatur:  
Esurit hic semper, ille aliquando satur.  
Amborum vitam si laus aequata notaret,  
Plus rationis habet, qui ratione caret.   People, because he would be too Imperious.  
It is said that Pepin the Son of Charlemagne, and King of Italy, built the Church of St. Zeno at Verona. It must be confessed the Carvers of that time were miserable Artists. Never were there seen such wretched Figures as these in the Front of this Church. I observed in the Frontispiece of the great Portal, two kind of Birds, which by their Combs somewhat resembled Cocks. They hold an Animal with a long Tail, between them, which we suspected was designed to represent a Fox; this poor Beast had his Feet tied together, and hung over a Pole, the ends of which were supported by the Cocks. I cannot forbear searching into the meaning of this little Mystery; and if you please, I will adventure to tell you my Thoughts of it. The allusion of Gallus a Cock, to Gallus a Frenchman, is a thing so familiar, that I fancy the two Cocks may signify two Frenchmen, and the Animal thus bound, must be some crafty Fellow, cheated nevertheless, and supplanted by the Cocks. The Crane hath formerly been too hard for Renard. But to apply this Emblem to some particular Event: Supposing it to be true, that this Church was built under Pepin, as it seems very probable, it may be conjectured, that his Father Charlemagne and he were the two Cocks, and that the unfortunate Didier, the last King of the Lombard's, was the Fox: You know Charlemagne caused himself to be crowned King of the Lombard's, after he had dispossessed Didier, and Pepin was crowned King of Italy some Years after: Didier then vanquished, stripped, shaved, and put into a Convent; too nearly resembles the Fox: Except you had rather it should be his Son, whose Name, I think, was Adalgise; who in the end was taken and killed, after he had vainly employed all his Wit and Force to regain the Possession of his Father's Dominions. I will not say that Pepin amused himself with such a Trifle, but it was perhaps the Fancy of the Carver. On the side of the same Portal they have put this fine Hieroglyphic. There is a Man on Horseback in basso relievo, over whom these Three Verses are written in Characters, half Roman, half Gothick: 
O Regem stultum, petit infernale tributum.  
Móxque paratur equus quem misit Daemon iniquus.  
Exit aquâ nudus, petit infera not rediturus.   
Tho' I have given you some Conjectures concerning the Fox, I confess I can make nothing of this Devil's Horse; you may think of both as you please.  
Returning from thence, we passed by the little Church of St. Marry the Old, near which are to be seen many magnificent Tombs of the Scaligers, who, as you know, were Princes of Verona, before that City belonged to the Republic of Venice.  
The Rarities which we saw in the Cabinet of the Count Mascardo, deserve that some learned Man should undertake their Description: And it may be cause of Admiration, that those who have had the Curiosity, and the Means to amass so many fine things together, should not have had the care to procure Stamps of them, and to add Explanatory Remarks on such as are most considerable; scarce any thing more remarkable can fall within the Observation of a Traveller, nor any thing that deserves better to be studied and described. There you find a Gallery, and Six Chambers, all filled with the most admirable Productions of Art or Nature. But as it is not possible for me to give you a particular Account of so many things, so will I not engage myself in such a Task, neither at present, nor for the future: You need but call to mind all that you have already seen in my Letters, and particularly that which I writ from Inspruck. Of Pictures, Books, 
Roman Rods or Fasces.  Rings, Animals, Plants, Metals, monstrous or Extravagant Productions, and Works of all Fashions; and, in a Word, all that can be imagined curious, or worth inquiry, whether for Antiquity or Rarity, or for the Delicacy and Excellency of the Workmanship; the Catalogue of them would alone amount to a Volume; only to satisfy you in some measure, I assure you, that  I shall meet with any thing that I have not taken Notice of before, and which shall seem worthy of particular Observation, I shall take care to communicate it to you.  
There are here many 
* The Vessels which they name are, enclabria, paterae, prefericula, ollae sympullae. Many sorts of Knives, dolabra, cultri, seva, secespita. Axes, Mallets, Candlesticks.  Instruments and Utensils, which were used in the Pagan Sacrifices. They also showed us Figures of Brass, that represent all sorts of things, which they hung up in the Temples of their Gods, when they had received any Assistance from them.  
We saw also many pieces of Workmanship, framed out of the Stone Amianthos, which is the 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉, so famous among the Naturalists; this Stone, as hard and weighty as it is, is easily divided into Fibres or Threads, which are so strong and flexible, that they may be spun like Cotton. Before I leave this Head, I must acquaint you with this Remark concerning the Instances of Petrefaction, which I have observed either here or elsewhere; that there is many times a great deal of Error and Uncertainty in them, and that there are several Persons who scruple not to use a little Artifice to multiply and diversity the Rarities with which they design to fill a Cabinet. It cannot be denied that Nature seems to divert herself sometimes, with such fantastical Changes; but it must also be confessed, that they are often counterfeited by Art. I know not whether you ever saw any of those pretended Animals, called Basilisks, which have a little resemblance of a Dragon. The Invention is prettily contrived, and has cheated many; for they take a small Ray, and having turned it after a certain manner, and raised up the Fins in form of Wings, they fit a little Tongue to it, shaped like a Dart, and add Claws and Eyes of Enammel, with other little Knacks, curiously ordered; and this is the whole Secrecy of making Basilisks. I am not ignorant that some Author's mention another sort of Basilisk, without either Feet or Wings, which they represent like a crowned Serpent, and many Naturalists affirm that it kills with its Breath and Looks. Galen takes notice of it as the most Venomous of all Serpents, and tells us that the Wezel only fears not its Poison, but on the contrary, poisons it with its Breath. But I believe this Serpent is found only in the Land of Phoenixes and Unicorns.  

The Curious may learn in Matthiolus how they make the Mandrakes.  I might allege to you many other little Cheats, like that of the first Basilisk; but to return to our Account of Petrefaction, I shall fix only on one of all those Observations that might be brought to Illustrate this Subject. There is a certain natural Production, according to some, a kind of imperfect Plant, or a Coralline Matter, which extremely resembles a Mushroom. I know not whether they do not sometimes cheat themselves, or are willing to cheat others. Be it as it will, this is that which they call Petrified Mushrooms, which indeed were never Mushrooms. The Question depends on the matter of Fact; but one may yet say, that the little solidity, and the little hardness of a Mushroom, makes it a thing the least in the World Petrifiable, the Metamorphosis must be done in a trice.  
We saw a Burial lately, of which I must give you some Account: The Body was dressed in Black, with a White Linen Cloak, a fine Peruke, on the Head a Hat, and above that a Garland of Flowers. The Corpse was laid on a Quilt, with a Counterpane of flowered Silk, Yellow and Red, and supported with a Pillow of the same Stuff. Four Men carried it thus all open, and the Company followed Two and Two, of which only those wore Garlands who were never Married. This was also the Custom of the Ancients, and they called it Corona pudicitiae, The Crown of Chastity. Some Hours before, we had another Rencounter: It was a Woman richly dressed, who walked through the City between two Nuns, and was going to take the Habit. It is ordinary in this Country to go thus in public, whereas in France, and many other places, this Ceremony is performed in the Convent. 
M. Montel.  A French Merchant who dwelled here many Years, has just now given me an Account of a Procession, which he had often seen, and which I have a great mind to relate to you before I finish my Letter. 
Mark 11.7.  They at Verona believe after that Jesus Christ had made his Entrance into Jerusalem, he gave a Key of the Fields to the She or He-Ass, which he made use of to ride on, being willing that the Beast should pass the rest of his days in quiet and liberty. They add, that the Ass, weary with having so long gnawed on the Pastures of Palestine, resolved to visit foreign Countries, and to undertake a Voyage by Sea; he had no need, say they, of a Ship, the Waves became smooth, and the liquid Element as hard as Crystal. After he had visited the Islands of Cyprus, Rhodes, Candie, Malta, and Sicily, he passed over the Gulf of Venice, and stayed some days in the place where that famous City was since built: But the Air seeming to him to be unhealthful, and the Pasturage bad among the Salt and Marish Isles, Martin continued his Voyage, and mounted the River of Adige dryshod, and coming up to Verona, he made choice of that for his last Residence. After he had lived there some Years, like an Ass of Estate and Quality, he died at last, to the great Grief of the Con-fraternity. So lamentable and universal a Braying, made the Echoes resound through the Country, and never was so sad a Melody heard at the Funeral of such an Animal, not even in Arcadia itself. But they quickly found a way to alleviate their Grief, for all the Honours imaginable being rendered to the blessed Deceased, the devoties of Verona carefully preserve the Relics, and have put them into the Belly of an Artificial Ass, made for that purpose, where they are kept to this day, to the great Joy and Edification of Pious Souls. This Holy Statue is kept in the Church of Nostre Dame of the Organs, and Four of the lustiest Monks of the Convent, in Pontifical Habits, carry it solemnly in Procession two or three times in the Year.  
You know Catullus was of Verona.  
Tantum magna suo debet Verona Catullo,  
Quantum parva suo Mantua Virgilio.  
I am, SIR, Yours, etc. At Verona, Dec. 16. 1687.   

LETTER XV.  
SIR,  
THE Country between Verona and Vicenza is fruitful, well manured, and almost every where level: The Trees are planted in Chequers, on which the Vines are raised, and spread themselves among the Branches; and the Ground is carefully tilled. We dined at a little Village called La Torre, where are the Bounds between the Veronese and Vicentin. The Wine of this Country is of so faint a Sweetness, that it is noxious to the Stomach. Yet there are Wines at Verona that are much esteemed, and I think I have read in Suetonius, that Augustus made them his ordinary Drink. The Bread is as if it were Earth, tho' very white and excellent Flower; it is because they know not how to make it: Together with this, they treated us with a Dish of grey Pease, fried in Oil, and this was all our Feast. Is it not very strange that we should be in danger to die of Hunger in a good Country, after we had fed plentifully among the Rocks and Mountains? The Soil is fat, and consequently the Ways bad; insomuch that at this Season, there was need of Seven or Eight Horses to draw the Waggon-Coaches; they put them all together under the Coachman's Whip, that he may drive them without a Postilion.  
Vicenza is less by half than Verona, 
VICENZA.  and is only encompassed with tottering Walls. Three or Four little Rivers meet there, by which divers Commodities are imported, but none of them are Navigable. Our Guide carried us to some of the Churches: The Coronata is well paved and wainscotted: That of the Religious of St. Catharines', hath Three fair Altars. There are some good Pictures in the Cathedral; and they show us, likewise, in the Choir a Work of carved Stones, which the Sexton praised very much, tho' the matter be of little value; the Performance is better than the Design. The Town-House is very indifferent, yet they boast of it as a rare Piece. For to tell you the truth, it is a difficult matter to accommodate one's self to the highflown Discourses of the Italians. It is impossible for them to speak modestly; for when they would praise any thing, they do it with exaggerations; and he who hath the good fortune to please them, is always Wonderful, Marvellous, and Incomparable. We have already seen I know not how many pretended Eighth Wonders of the World. When we complained that we saw at Verona, so few considerable Buildings in so great a City, and which had formerly been so famous; they promised us that we should find Mountains and Miracles at Vicenza. They told us Vicenza was full of stately Palaces, of an extraordinary sumptuous Architecture. These were indeed big Words; but 'tis certain that never any found themselves more disappointed than we were when we came to see these pretended magnificent Palaces of Vicenza; for we must use the Phrases of the Italians, who must be allowed to call whatsoever they please, a Palace. A little Citizen's Hall, which you in England call a Parlour, in Italy hath the Title of The Chamber of Audience, when you may as well give the Title of Embassies to a Footboy's Message. It is all one to me, whether they call the Lackeys Ambassadors, or all their Houses L'Ouvres. This is the best in the World in Italian; but for us, or others, who are no Italians, we cannot suffer ourselves to be surprised with their Palaces, nor their most Sumptuous. I know not very well what the Word Palace signifies in your Tongue; but those who are somewhat versed in our Language, aught to have no regard to the resemblance of the Word Palais, to that of Palazzo, as if they signified the same thing. The Word Palais is not used so prodigally amongst us, as that of Palazzo is amongst the Italians; it imports a great deal more, and excites another Idea in the Hearer. In a Word, I find that they give the Name of Palazzi to an infinite Number of ordinary Houses, to which that of Palais does not at all belong. And to apply all that has been said to the lofty Palaces of Vicenza. I maintain in general, that they may be called handsome Houses, and no more. Perhaps there are Three or Four for which that Name might seem too mean; but I cannot tell how they can be termed very fine; for to speak properly, they are but well-disguised, not fine Houses: That is to say, there is nothing fair but the Frontispiece, and that is no more than indifferent, for they are often built with Plaster instead of hewn Stone. I insist the more on this, because it is hard to root out the old Mistake, with which many People are possessed, about the multitude of Palaces in Italy; and I would endeavour always to represent things as they are.  
Our Guide finding that we were no great Admirers of his Palaces, fancied however, that he knew a way to surprise us; and having insensibly obliged us to follow him, he drew us on through the Dirt, a good half League from the City, to show us a little Countryhouse, which belonged to the Marquis of Capra. It is a square Building, in the midst whereof is a little Hall, under a small Dome, and at each Angle of the square two Chambers and a Closet. There are some good Pictures in it; and the situation being on a little ascent, contributes to render the place very agreeable.  
Coming back from this House, he carried us to our Lady of Montheric. It is famous in this Country, and the Prior told us the whole Story of it very seriously. You are to know only that this Image of our Lady came out of the Earth, in the very place where you see her: And that they have often in vain endeavoured to transport her to Vicenza; Ten thousand Men together, as the Prior told us, were not able to carry her. The Picture by Paul of Verona, which is in their Dining-Room, is the best Piece in the Convent, it represents St. Gregory at Table with some Pilgrims.  
There are some Ruins of an ancient Amphitheatre at Vicenza, but they told us, they were almost all hid under new Buildings. The Theatre which is in the Academy of the Olympics, is of the famous Palladio. The Fabric is none of the largest, and they use it but on certain occasions, which rarely happen. The Triumphal-Arch, which is without the Gates, at the entrance of the Plain, which is called the Field of Mars, is in imitation of the Antic way of Building, by the same Palladio.  
The Garden of the Count of Valmanara, is a thing much boasted of in this City, and the Inscription which we read over the Garden-Gate, put us in great expectations. You have here the Contents of it: Stop, dear Traveller, thou, who searchest for rare things, and enchanted places, for here thou mayst find satisfaction. Enter into this delicious Garden, and taste abundantly of all sorts of Pleasures: The Count of Valmanara gives thee leave, etc. In effect, they once designed to have made this a very agreeable place. There is a Canal, Divisions or Knots, and Closets; besides an Alley of Citrons and Oranges, which is indeed a fine thing.  
This Mounsieur the Count puts me in mind of a pleasant Story, which I have read in several Authors. They say that Charles the Fifth being at Vicenza, a great number of Gentlemen and rich Burgesses of that place, pressed him very much to grant them the Title of Counts: Charles still drew back, but in the end, to be rid of these troublesome People, said aloud, Well, well, I make you all Counts, both the City and Suburbs. From this time, saith the History, nothing is more common than the Counts of Vicenza.  
The way from Vicenza to Milan is not unlike to that between Verona and Vicenza. We passed the Tezenza about three quarters of an hour from Vicenza, and the Brenta an hour from Milan. I know not whether the Antiquaries are agreed concerning this Brenta: Some pretend it was the Timavus, and others, that it is one of the Medoacus': The first opinion seems least probable, because of the River Timavus, 
Bologna la grassa venetia la guasta, ma Padoa la Passa.  which passeth by Friuli, and which is apparently the true one; but let us leave them to end their difference, and come to Milan.  
The Paduan is a level Country, and extremely fruitful, yet Milan is a poor and ill-peopled City. The Circuit of it is great: but there are large places in it that are void of Buildings, and many Houses void of Inhabitants. 
MILAN, called the Learned. This City was subjected to the Venetians, in the Year 1406. In 1519. they pulled down the Suburbs, in which were 10 Monasteries, 6 Churches, 7 Hospitals, and about 3000 Houses. Schrad.  The ancient Milan hath still retained its first Walls; but since it fell into the hands of the Venetians, they have comprised the Suburbs in the City, and compassed it with a Fortification, which was never good, and is at present ready to fall.  
There are Porches or Piazza's, almost throughout the whole City, which are very convenient to shelter People from Rain, but otherwise make the Streets narrow and dark, and give opportunity for those frequent Robberies and Murders, which they call at Milan, the Qui va li? What can be more strange, than that the Scholars of Milan, should be privileged to knock down those whom they meet, and to break Legs and Arms, without any hope of Justice? For, as soon as Night falls, they arm themselves, and going out in Companies, hid themselves between the Pillars of the Porches; and while the poor Passenger is struck with terror at the hearing of the Question, Qui va li? without perceiving who makes it; another at the same time cries, Qui va la? without giving a Man an opportunity to go forward or backward; the unhappy Creature must perish between the Qui va li, and the Qui va la: of which these Sparks make but a Sport. This is what they call the Qui va li of Milan.  
It often happens that these Scholars kill unknown Persons, or some of themselves, to maintain the privilege that they have assumed. 'Tis true, these Indignities are not daily committed, for People keep themselves as close as they can out of harms way. But it may be said, without exaggeration, that not a Month passeth, in which two or three Mischances do not happen. Not but that this unbridled Licence might be easily restrained; but Venice, which insists on the fineness of her Politics, and bushes them to the utmost, would have this Scourge for the Paduans, and this Petrolle which costs nothing. I will tell you the rest another time.  
I had yesterday a long discourse with some Persons, who believe that Milan was formerly a Seaport, both because the Ancients speak of it, as a very rich Place, and because when they dig Wells or Foundations of Houses, they find in divers places Anchors and Masts. I know not if this Opinion may seem reasonable to you; but since History hath given us no account of it, I should rather have recourse to a more easy way, to explain how Vessels come up to Milan, which is, that there was formerly some great Canal.  
They affirm also, that Milan was built by Antenor, and they show there a great repository for Bones, in which they have placed the pretended Bones of this old Trojan, and it is commonly called Antenor's Tomb. But this Tradition is not very certain: it cannot indeed be denied, that 
* See the 1st Book of the Eneids.  Antenor came into this Country: And 'tis no less certain, that he built a City which was called Patavium. But the question is whether our Milan be the Patavium of Antenor, 
Messala Corvinus saith, that the Arms of Troy were placed by Antenor in the Temple of Milan; and that they were a Sow in a Field Or.  for this Opinion is not improbable, yet there are Arguments against it, as well as for it.  
As for the Tomb it is a mere Bauble. It is about four hundred and odd Years, that they were working on the Foundations of an Hospital, and dug up a Leaden-Coffin, near which they found a Sword. The Coffin had no Inscription, and upon the Sword were some Leonin Verses of barbarous Latin. Judge, I pray you, whether this may not as well agree with the Trojan Horse as Antenor. In the mean time the immoderate love which some People have for every thing that bears the Stamp of Antiquity, has made some Persons dream, that they had found the Tomb of Antenor. A certain Man called Lupatus, who was then Magistrate, and a Man of some Learning, had also his Reasons or Prejudices in favour of these Bones: And he it was, who some Years after, put them in that renowned Tomb, which they call at this day the Tomb of Antenor, and which is to be seen at the entrance of St. Laurence's-street. He caused four Verses to be Engraved on it, and which, as you may believe are in Gothick Characters: 
C. Inclytus Antenor patriae nisa quietem  
Transtulit huc Enetum Dardanidúmque fugas  
Expulit Euganeos Patavinam condidit Urbem,  
Quem tenet hic humili marmore caesa domus.  There are some who read, Patriae vox, and others, Patriam. But they are both in the wrong, for the ae of the word Patriae is plain; and if one would join the m, which follows with Patriae, it must be read Patriaem. This m is nearer to vox than Patriae, nor can it be doubted to be an m, because the same Character is found in divers words which follow. I confess that Muox signifies nothing no more thin Patriaem; and turn these Verses which way you please, you will never find any good sense.  
To conclude the account of this Inscription, there are some who have made a false Remark upon the word caesa, as if it were writ with a single e, but they have not observed the 
* ae  eciril, which serves for an ae; besides, there are, you know, old Impressions, which never regard this Dipthong. Enetum is written without an h, and there is no punctuation observed throughout. I know not what to say of the C. which is put to the beginning of the Verse. You must further know, that Doctor Lupetus would have his own Tomb placed near that of his dear Antenor, and they remain at present side by side.  
The Church of St. 
* They call him St. Anthony of Milan, because he died there, and was there buried, but he was a Franciscan of Lisbon, and Cotemporary with St. Francis d'Assise. Spond. Bellarmin, Trithemius, etc.  Anthony of Lisbon, is very great, and full of fine things, as well in Carving as in Painting. There are many magnificent Tombs in it, among which we observed 
† Made in the Year 1555. by Augustin Zotto.  that of Alexander Contarini, Admiral of the Republic, and Procurator of St. Mark, and that of Count Horatio Sicco, who was killed at Vienna, in the last Siege. There cannot be seen a fairer Picture in Fresco, than that of the Chapel of St. Felix, it was done by the famous Giotto, who excelled in that sort of work. But that which is the most considerable in this Church is the 
† Forty foot long, and twenty five broad. Ang. Port.  Chapel of St. Anthony, the great Protector of Milan, whom, by way of eminency they call the Saint. His Body lies under the Altar, which is enriched with a thousand precious things. They say that the Bones of the Saint cast forth a very sweet Odour; those who have the Curiosity to smell them, go behind the Altar to a certain part which is not well joined, and where it were easy to thrust in some Balsam, or such like odoriferous thing. All the Chapel is covered with a Basso relievo Work of white Marble, in which are represented the principal Miracles of St. Anthony. Almost the whole work was done by Tullius Lombardus, and Sansovin. There are also six and thirty great silver Lamps, which burn Night and Day round the Altar: I will not trouble you with that medley of Stories, which those who show this Chapel, are wont to relate concerning their Saint.  
From this Church we went to that of St. Justina, which is very great and beautiful, though it be far from the Perfection to which they design to advance it. It is paved with Marble-squares, of red, black, and white; the Roof of the great Body of the Church hath seven Domes, which give it both Light and Ornament. There are also two on each Arm of the Cross. Besides the great Altar, which is a stately Work, there are twenty four others of fine Marble, and all different in Colour. And whereas the Church of St. Anthony is full of Monuments, they will not suffer any in this: There is only one Inscription, which says, That the Church was built at the only charge of the Convent. The 
* This Work was performed in 22 Years, by a Frenchman called Ricard.  Basso relievo of the Benches of the Choir is admirable, and the design is fine throughout: which represents the Prophecies of the Old Testament, relating to Jesus Christ, with their accomplishment in the New. The Martyrdom of St. Justina, which is over the great Altar, was done by Paul of Verona.  
I will not undertake to give you a particular description of this Church. The Monastery is also vastly great, it hath six Cloisters, and many Courts and Gardens. I will not trouble you with an account of the Image of the Virgin 
† See Baron. an. 726, and 730. , which flew from Constantinople when it was taken by the Turks: Nor will I add any thing concerning the Bodies of the Saints, or the other Relics, of which this Church is full, for so we should never end its Story.  
The great place which is near to it, was formerly called the Field of Mars. I cannot imagine why People, 
256 Foot long, and 86 broad, Angelo Portenari  who love names of Honour so much, have robbed it of its ancient Title, to call it simply, Prato della valle, the Meadow of the Valley.  

This Hall is of the Figure of a Rhomboides, and is not sustained by any Pillars. Peter Aponus who was the Architect, and a famous Necromancer, saith Cardan, wrought the Vault with Constellations and Astronomical Figures, which remain still to be seen.  The Hall of the Town-House is very large and dark; it is one hundred and ten Paces long, and forty broad, and there are to be seen in it many Monuments which have been erected for illustrious Persons. Milan had a happy chance to redeem its Founder out of the obscurity in which he had lain for near three thousand Years: It was but just also, that the first unknown Tomb they met withal in this City, should serve to honour the Memory of Titus Livius, the famous Historian who was born there.  
The discovery of this Tomb, in the Year 1413. was attended with the universal joy and acclamations of the People. There was found in the Gardens of St. Justina, a shrine of Lead, not unlike to that of Antenor; and they presently concluded, that it was the Coffin of Titus Livius, because that Historian was the Priest of Concord; and the Convent of the Benedictines of St. Justina, is built on the Ruins of a Temple, which was of old Consecrated to that Goddess. When the noise of this discovery was spread abroad, all the City run thither, with transports of an inexpressible Joy and Zeal. The People touched their Beads on the Shrine of the supposed Titus Livius, as if he had been some new Saint. Many private Persons offered to be at the Charge of a Mausolaeum, provided they might erect it in their own Houses; and every one rejoiced that he was born in that happy Age, when this precious Treasure was discovered. In fine, Titus Livius, after he had been robbed of his Jaws by a People greedy of Relics, was put into a Coffin of Wood, that he might more easily be carried. They loaded it with Branches of Laurel, and the best of the City carried it in Triumph to the Palace of Justice; in which place, after many Deliberations and Ceremonies, they erected the Monument which is now to be seen, and to which they afterward added this Inscription, which was found in the Neighbourhood of the place where the Temple of Concord formerly stood.  


* Vivens Fecit.  V F.  
Titus Livius  
Liviae. T. F.  
Quartae L.  
Halys  
Concordialis  
Patavi  
Sibi & suis  
Omnibus.   
Over this Inscription, they have placed a Head of Marble, which goes for the Head of Titus Livius, though Men of Learning know the contrary. It is true, the Inscription is ancient, as well as the Head, but there has been a 
† By L' Orsato.  Dissertation lately Published concerning this subject; which, in my Opinion, clearly proves, that the Titus Livius of this Inscription, was only a freed Man of one of the Daughters of Titus Livius the Historian: So that the Bones, the Head, and the Inscription, are only borrowed Pieces.  
To leave the Fables and Incertainties of Antiquity, and come to something that is new and real; I shall give you an account of another Monument, which we saw in this same Hall, and which is worthy of Observation. Some have exalted Susanna beyond Lucretia, but it may be justly said that the Marchioness D' Obizzi, of whom I shall presently speak, hath surpassed Susanna and Lucretia both; since when she saw Death present before her, she resolved to bear it courageously, rather than to suffer her Chastity to be Injured. A Gentleman of Milan, was passionately in love with this Lady, who was young and beautiful, and found an opportunity to get into her Chamber when she was in Bed, in the Absence of the Marquis her Husband. Probably the Gentleman first used all the ways of sweetness and persuasion, before he proceeded to acts of Violence. But however, when he saw he could prevail neither way, his Love turned to Fury, and Rage so transported him, that he stabbed this Virtuous Lady. See the Inscription:  
Venerare pudicitiae simulachrum & victimam, Lucretiam de Dondis ab Horologio Pyaeneae de Obizzonibus, Orciani Marchionis Uxorem. Haec inter noctis tenebras maritales asserens tedas, furiales recentis Tarquinii faces, casto cruore extinxit. Sicque Romanam Lucretiam, intemerati tori gloria vincit. Tantae suae Heroinae generosis manibus hanc dicavit aram Civitas Patavina Decreto. Die 31. Decembris Anni 1661.  
Are you not satisfied, Sir, that Milan hath done a most just Action, by taking care to eternize the Memory of so rare a Virtue, that met with such a barbarous Treatment? But perhaps you would not take it amiss to have the whole Story related to you.  
When the Marchioness was surprised in her Bed, her only Son, about five Years old was with her; but the Murderer having carried him into a Neighbouring Chamber, before he perpetrated his horrid Villainy, the Child could not see all that passed. The thing being brought to light, the Gentleman was taken into Custody, upon suspicion: It was known that he had an Inclination to the Marchioness. The Child gave some Information; some Neighbours affirmed, they had seen the Gentleman in that Quarter: They found a Button of his Sleeve on the Bed, fellow to that which he still wore; and these things were strong Arguments of his Gild. They put him to the Torture, both ordinary and extraordinary, but he still denied the Fact; and after fifteen Years Imprisonment, his Friends wrought so hard, that they saved him, and even, as I suppose, obtained his Liberty; which yet he enjoyed not long, for some Months after his Deliverance, the young Marquis, which was the Child I spoke of, shot him with a Pistol in the Head, and so revenged the Death of his Mother. He is at present in Germany, in the Emperor's Service.  
There are here many Cabinets of Curiosities, and a great number of skilful Antiquaries. But it must be acknowledged, that Mr. Patin, Professor of Physic, excels all the Critics in the World, in explaining the Intricacies of Antiquity. For 'tis certain, that never any Man was Master of a truer and more judicious Taste for these Curiosities, of a more extensive Knowledge in all other respects, or of a more obliging and communicative Temper.  
The Amphitheatre of Milan was greater than that of Verona, but there remains nothing of it but miserable Ruins. I must further tell you, before I end my Letter, that I went lately into the Tennis-Court, and was very much surprised to find the Walls white, and the Balls black, and Rackets as large as Sieves; but it is the Custom of this Country.  
I am, SIR, Yours, etc. At Milan, Dec. 1687.   

LETTER XVI.  
SIR,  
IT was an extraordinary satisfaction to me to meet with your Letters in this place; besides the pleasure I had to learn good news of you; you have done me a singular kindness, in proposing Questions to me, about those things concerning which you desire to be most particularly informed. Assure yourself, Sir, my best endeavours shall not be wanting to answer your Demands exactly: I entreat you to continue the same Method hereafter, that I may be better enabled to send you such Accounts as may be acceptable to yourself, and those of our Friends, to whom you communicate them.  
You desire me to tell you sincerely, whether our present Travels be really pleasant to us, or at least whether the pleasure we take in them be not over-balanced by the trouble which they give us. I am not at all surprised that you should entertain such a doubt of it; for though we are not among Wild Bears, or in the Deserts of Arabia, yet are we not without some difficulties. The Wether is very rough; the way of Travelling ordinarily unpleasant, and the days so short, that we get late in at Night, and rise very early: We oftentimes meet with hard Lodging, and worse Diet; and besides, we are exposed to many dangers. Nevertheless, with a good Stock of Health, Money, Cheerfulness and Patience, we have surmounted these difficulties, even almost without taking notice of them. Custom makes all things easy, and is a sovereign and universal Remedy. We take some days of rest when we think we want it: The variety and perpetual Novelty of Objects recreates the Spirits as well as the Eyes. A little weariness supplies the want of a Bed, and Exercise sharpens our Appetites. Offa & torus herbaceus, famis & laboris dulcissimae medullae sunt. With good Furs we defended ourselves against the Cold, in spite of all the Frosts and Snows of the Alps: In fine, without alleging those general Reasons, which render Travels profitable and pleasant, I will positively tell you, that the tenderest and most delicate Persons of our Company, have easily overcome all those Obstacles, which might hinder the satisfaction which we expected. Our stay at Venice will perfectly recruit us, and when we shall proceed on our Travels, the sweetness of the Spring will insensibly begin to succeed the rigours of the Winter.  
As to the rest, I have let a whole Month pass without writing to you, since we arrived in this City, that I might more certainly inform myself of the things with which I intent to entertain you. I will tell you nothing but what I have seen myself, or of which I have had particular Information. You are in the right to conclude, that I will not undertake to give you a description of Venice; that would be a work too tedious, and foreign to my design. Yet I will not affect to tell you only such new and singular things as were never mentioned by any other. Being willing to be ignorant what others have written; I will speak as an Eye-witness, and represent to you, as naturally as I can, the principal part of such things as I shall judge worthy of observation, without giving any heed to what others have said. You will perceive, that I take care throughout to answer your particular Questions: If you have forgotten any thing, you may acquaint me with it in your next Letters. Venice is so singular a place, look on it which way you please, that I have proposed to myself to consider it with care: I have filled all my Memorials; and I hope I shall be able to give a satisfactory answer to most of your Questions. But I must advertise you of two things, before I put an end to this little Preface. The first is, that I reserve some of the most notable Observations, to be communicated to you on some other occasion. The other is, that I will not oblige myself to any order in my Observations, but relate things as I chanced to meet with them, as I have already intimated to you in another place.  
We parted from Milan on the twentieth of the last Month, and came hither betimes that Evening: There are many good Villages on the way, and a great many Houses of Pleasure, which belong to noble Venetians, and were built by Palladio. The Ausbourg-Post brought us to Mestré, which is a little City on the Bank of the Gulf, Five Miles from Venice. I have read somewhere in Mezeray's History, that the Adriatick-Sea was frozen in the Year 
* Others say in 859.  860, and that they went in a Coach from the main Land to Venice. As for us, we were obliged to take Gondola's at Mestré, and were about an Hour and an half on the Water.  
That I may give you a true Idea of Venice, 
VENICE, called the Rich.  I must in the first place describe those Waters in the midst of which it is seated. The general Opinion of Geographers is, That Venice is built in the Sea, and this in some measure is true; nevertheless it requires Explication: It is certain it is not the Main Sea, but drowned Lands, yet such as were drowned before the Building of Venice; that is, at the least Thirteen or Fourteen Hundred Years ago. The greatest Vessels float in some places on those Waters, and there are Channels by which those that are of no greater Burden than Two Hundred Tuns, can go up to Venice itself. The Sea there hath a free Communication with the Main Sea, by the Ebbing and Flowing Tides. The Oysters and other Shellfish stick to the Foundations of the Houses of Venice and Murano, as they do in other places to the Rocks; so that I think it may be truly said, that Venice is in the Sea. Yet since 'tis plain that this drowned Country was formerly a Marish; these Waters have but very little depth, and after all, this is not the true and ancient Sea: This Extent of Water is at Venice called only the Lake or Marish, and they gave it the Name of Lacuna; I observe that the greatest part of Strangers adopt this Word, every one disguising it according to his own Language, for want of a fit term to express it. Lacune hath another signification in French, which perhaps is the reason that they change here the C into G and call it Lagune. Tho' this be a barbarous Word, and newly invented, yet I am resolved to make use of it, such as it is, rather than give myself the trouble to frame a better.  
They have Mills, and other Machine's, to empty the Mud and Ouse, which gather continually, and discover themselves in several places, when the Sea is at the lowest Ebb: They have turned the Mouth of the Brent, and some other Rivers, to prevent their throwing of Mud and Sand into the Lagunes; and that the Earth may not regain from the Sea, which would be very prejudicial to Venice, whose Strength and Security consists in its Situation. It is true, that if this City is obliged to labour incessantly, to keep the Waters which environ it at a certain depth, to prevent its being reunited to the Continent; so it would not be for its advantage in every respect, that these Waters should have a great and general depth; because while things remain in or near the same Posture they are now in, it, is, in a manner, impossible to approach to Venice, either by Sea or Land. When Pepin, of whom we spoke not long since, undertook to expel the Doge Maurice, and his Son John, who was his Associate. He parted from Ravenna with his Fleet, imagining with full Sails, to pass . But whilst the Doge's Ships steered their Course through the navigable Channels, without meeting with any Misfortunes, Pepin's Vessels stuck, and sunk in the Mud on all sides; so that after a great loss, he was constrained to fly with the Remainders of his wrecked Fleet. It is manifest, that could this Fleet have passed every where with full Sails, this Expedition had succeeded better. It is about Three hundred and odd Years since the Genoeses received the like treatment.  
I believe you do by this time sufficiently comprehend what is meant by these Lagunes of Venice: Represent then also to yourself the City of Venice, which rises out of the midst of these Waters, with Thirty or Forty large Steeples, and is at least a League and an a half distant from the Land. It is certainly a very surprising Object to see this great City without any Walls, or Ramparts, to be beaten on every side with the Waves, and yet to remain on its Piles as firm as on a Rock.  
I know very well that all Geographers have written, that Venice is composed of Seventy two Isles; I will not controvert so generally received an Opinion: But I must confess, that I can by no means conceive what these Isles should be; and I dare assure you, that this Account gives a false Notion of the Platform and Situation of this City. It would seem by this Description, that there were Seventy two little Hills, one near the other, and that these little Eminencies being all inhabited, had at last formed the City of Venice, which is not at all probable. Venice is all flat, and built on Piles in the Water. The Water washes the Foundations of almost all the Houses, to the height of Four or Five Feet, and the Canals are always of equal breadth. 'Tis true, they have made the best use of several spaces, of a reasonable bigness, which may, indeed, give occasion to believe, that there was formerly some Land there, but not Seventy two Isles.  
For the Streets, they are very narrow, and seem to have been filled and raised with Mud and Rubbish; for it is not at all probable that they have natural Foundations; and besides, if all the Divisions which the Canals make, were reckoned for Isles, we should find near Two hundred instead of Seventy two. It might be farther observed, that the number of these Isles might be infinitely increased, and new ones made in any place, by fixing Poles, and building Houses upon them. There are Eighteen, or Twenty such like Islands scattered up and down in the Lagunes, without counting Palestrina, Mamalocco, and Eight or Ten others, which consist of solid Earth, and are truly Isles.  
We are not to take notice of what is commonly said of the greatness of Venice; some give it Eight Miles circuit, others allow but Seven. As for me, I assure you Venice is neither Eight nor Seven Miles in compass. They reckon Five Miles from Mestré to Venice, which way we came in an Hour and an half, with Two Rowers; and we sailed round Venice in the same space of time, with Two other Rowers, who made neither more nor less haste than those of Mestré. Judge then by this, of the Circuit of that City: Consider too, that our Gondola, was many times obliged to fetch a Compass, to avoid the little Capes which the City makes in several places, and by consequence the Line that it made was greater than the true Circuit of the City. Besides, to mark the Circumference of a City, without considering its Figure, is not a competent way to determine the largeness of its Content. 
This is what made Polybius say, That Sparta, which had but Forty eight Stades in compass, was twice as big as Megalopolis, which had Fifty. [A Stade contained 125 Geometrical Paces.]  A very indifferent Mathematician may demonstrate clearly, that a City which is near Eight Miles in compass, for Example, may contain a less number of Houses, than another City which is only Four Miles, or less if you please. This depends upon the regularity or irregularity of the Figure. This Truth, which is undeniable, is the reason that I never will never pretend to represent the bigness of Cities by the measure of their Circuit, for that might betray you into very considerable Errors. I shall ordinarily content myself with telling you, that a City is Great, or very Great; Little, or very Little: And I am persuaded that such Expressions as these, may give you a sufficient Idea of its Greatness.  
The number of Inhabitants is another thing which is hastily determined, but seldom well examined. It is commonly reported at Venice, that there are Two or three hundred thousand Souls in the City, and some have advanced the number to Four hundred thousand; but we must not rely upon these Computations. When the Trade of Venice flourished, 'tis probable that the number of its Inhabitants was much greater than it is at present: But if we may give credit to the Report of a Person who hath been settled here for a long time, and assured me, that his Calculation is very exact; Venice doth not at present contain more than an Hundred and forty thousand Souls, comprehending therein the Isle of Giudeca.  
Those who please themselves to represent Venice as a very populous City, take great care to inculcate, that it hath neither Gardens, nor void Places, nor Churchyards, and that the Streets are very Narrow: But when, on the other hand, they would describe the Beauty of Venice, they magnify its Gardens, its Places, and the breadth and number of its Canals. I read the other Day in a Venetian Author, that he counted in Venice Fifty three Public Places, and Three hundred and thirty five Gardens. Thus you may see how variously things are presented. But to speak the Truth, there is both Truth and Falsehood in either of these Reports; I will not dispute but that there may be Fifty three Spaces, great and small, to which this Author hath thought fit to give the name of Places; and the same may be said of his Gardens. But if we consider these Places and Gardens particularly, we must conclude him too prodigal of his honourable Titles. To speak properly, there is but one Place at Venice, the famous and magnificent Place of St. Mark. But let us allow him the liberty to bestow that Name on Five or Six void Spaces more, which have some small Extent; yet all this comes far short of Fifty three Places. There are also some Gardens here and there, particularly on the side of Santa Maria del' Orto; but if we set aside Fifteen or Twenty, or should allow Thirty, or Thirty five, to deserve to be so called, I can positively aver, that the Three hundred which remain, would not, one with another, be Ten Foot square; and are not these very noble Gardens? Nor is the other Account exactly true; for besides that Venice may have Gardens and void Spaces, there are many parts of it very slenderly inhabited. It is true, indeed, there are no Churchyards: And as for the Argument that is brought from the narrowness of the Streets, it is a petty Sophism, that may be easily refuted, by saying, that it is nothing but a bare Assertion. The Streets are straight and narrow, I confess, and so narrow, that the jostling of Elbows in the most frequented Places, is a great inconvenience; but I am of Opinion, that the Canals ought to be reckoned instead of Streets; and if the Canals were filled and paved, there would be no reason to complain of narrow Streets in Venice.  
But I must tell you, since we are on this Subject, that all the City is so mangled with these Canals and Streets, that there are almost no Houses but what you may go to by Water as well as by Land. Not that every Canal is bordered with a double Quay, as in Holland, for the conveniency of those who go on Foot: There are, indeed, some of these; but very often the Canal occupies all the Space from one Range of Buildings to another. The Streets are in the little Isles that are formed by the Canals; so that there is not any part of the City, to which one may not go either with or without a Gondola. 'Tis true, all these little Passages, and all the Turns that must be made to find the Bridges, do make Venice a true Labyrinth.  
The famous Place of St. Mark was the first Place which our Curiosity prompted us to visit, after our Arrival at Venice; and it is really the Soul and Glory of that City. The Church of St. Mark fronts one of the Ends of this Place, and that of St. Geminian the other; and the Procuraties or Lawyer's Offices and Lodgings, which are built with Marble, and are both very fine and regular, border the two sides of it with great Piazza's; which much enlarge the Place, and at the same time contribute to its convenience. This Place is Two hundred and fourscore Foot long, and One hundred and ten broad. When you come from the Church of St. Geminian towards that of St. Mark, and instead of entering there, turn to the Right-hand; the Place turns also in form of a Square; and this Second Place, whose extremity reaches to the Sea, is Two hundred and fifty Paces long, and Fourscore broad: This is that which they call the Broglio. The Palace of the Doge is on one side of it, and the Procuraties are continued on the other. All this considered together, makes an admirable Show, and may pass for a most magnificent Place.  
The Tower of St. Mark is near the Angle of the Square within, and does in some measure spoil the Symmetry of the place: This Tower is Three hundred and sixty Foot high, comprehending the Angel, which serves for the Weathercock. It was formerly all over gilt, and when the Sun shined upon it, those at Sea might perceive it at Thirty Miles distance; but now the Gold being gone, it scarcely appears. You ascend this Tower by Stairs, without Steps, like these which I have elsewhere described; which is to be seen at Geneva. You may easily judge of the Beauty, Variety, and Rarity of the Landscape, which is discovered from thence.  
The Broglio is the Walk of the Nobles: they take up always one side of the Place; sometimes for the Sun, and sometimes for the Shade, according to the Season. As their Number is great, and they are ordinarily to be seen no where else, the Broglio is the general Rendezvous, where Visits are made, and most Affairs treated of. It is not permitted to mingle amongst them on that that side of the Promenade which they occupy; but the other side is free. This place is so particularly destined, and set apart for them, that when a young Nobleman is come to the Age required for admittance into the Council, and to take the Robe, the first Day he puts it on, Four Noblemen of his Friends do ceremoniously introduce him into the Broglio; and when any of them are banished the Council, the entrance into the Broglio is likewise forbidden to them.  
It was about the beginning of the Ninth Age, that the Merchants of Venice brought the Corpse of St. Mark thither; they had, as is said, by I know not what chance, dug it out of the Earth, in the City of Alexandria in Egypt. And as there is a certain Tradition, which tells us, that this Evangelist being in Prison, Christ appeared to him, and saluted him in these Words; Peace be to thee, Mark, my Evangelist. The Senate of Venice received also the Body of the Saint with the same Words, when it was brought to their City: It is for this that you see them written upon the open Book, held by the Lion of St. Mark, in the Arms of Venice. You may imagine, there was great rejoicing for the possession of the Relics of this Evangelist; which it seems they could give no greater Testimony of, than by preferring him, as they did, to poor St. Theodore, the ancient Patron of the Republic, who had not given them the least cause of Complaint. But they stopped not here; for besides divers other Honours which they paid to the Bones of the New-comer, they built the abovementioned Church to his Honour, where they placed that Sacred Treasure. It is true, they took so little care to distinguish the Shrine or Tomb, that they know not at present precisely where it is; which is no small Affliction to those who bear an extraordinary Devotion to this Saint.  
I will not stop to tell you the History of his Apparition, (which, say they, happened Two Hundred and seventy Years after they had brought him to Venice) when he shown his Arm to the Doge, and gave him a Ring of Gold, which is carried every Year in Procession, on the Twenty fifth Day of June. Nor will I tell you an infinite number of other Stories, which are made on this Occasion.  
The Patriarchal Church is dedicated to St. Peter; and that of St. Mark, as rich as it is, is but a Chapel; it is the Doge's Chapel. The Primicerio, who is the Dean of the Canons of St. Mark, wears a Mitre and Rochet, as Bishops do, and depends not on the Patriarch. I have seen him officiate on Christmas-day in great Ceremony; the Altar being adorned with most rich Pieces of the Treasury: He is always a noble Venetian, and his Yearly Revenue amounts to almost a Thousand Pounds Sterling.  
The Church of St. Mark deserves an exact Description; but that is too great a Work for a Traveller: I shall therefore content myself with giving you some general Account of it. It is a Building Square, or almost Square, of a 
* The Church is a Cross shortened, Greekwise. There are many Gothick Ornaments.  Greek Structure, obscure, and indifferent high, but extraordinarily enriched with Marble, and Mosaic Work. The Roof consists of several Domes, and that in the midst exceeds the rest in greatness. Of all the Statues which are on the outside of the Church, there are but Two good ones; The Adam and Eve by Riccio, which you see when you descend the great Stairs of the Palace. I speak not of the Four Brazen Horses which are over the great Portal, because they are foreign Pieces which came thither accidentally. I learned from one skilled in Antiquity, that these Horses belonged to a Chariot of the Sun, that served for Ornament to a Triumphal-Arch, which the Senate of Rome erected for Nero, after the Victory of that Prince over the Parthians; which may be still seen, saith he, on the Reverse of some of his Medals. Constantine the Great carried them from Rome to Constantinople, where he placed them in the Hippodrome; and at last the Venetians having made themselves Masters of that City, brought hither many of its rich Spoils, of which number were these Horses. One may still perceive in some places that they were gilded.  
One of the things which seems to me most remarkable in the Church of St. Mark, is the vast quantity of Mosaic Work, with which it is adorned. All the Pavement is made of it, and all its arched Roofs are covered with it. Because you have not seen this kind of Work, and would have me to say something of it, I will explain it to you as well as I can. Mosaic Work came from Greece, but they tell us that the use of it hath been in Italy for near Two Thousand Years past. Vitruvius who lived in the time of Augustus, speaks of it under the terms of opus sectile, pavimenta sectilia, opera musaea & musiva: It was likewise called tessellatum & vermiculatum opus.  
All Works composed of little inlaid Pieces, whether they be of Stone, Wood, Ivory, Enamel, or any other Matter; or whether they be Representations of Things Natural, or only Morisk or Japan Figures; all these are comprehended under the name of Mosaic: So that there are many fashions of it. You know what Inlaid Work is; you have also seen the fine Works of Florence Stone; and to speak after a loser manner, all these are Mosaic. And that which makes the greatest Ornament of the Church of St. Mark, is, that almost all the Work is of this nature. For want of Natural Stones, which would be hard to find for a Work so vast, and which would take up an immense time to polish and prepare; They have recourse to Pastes, and compositions of Glass and Enamel, which they make in a Crucible or Melting-Pot; this takes a most lively and shining Colour, which never wears nor stains. Every Piece of the Mosaic of St. Mark is a little Cube, which is not above Three Lines thick, or Four at the most. All the Field is of Mosaic, gilded with most bright Gold, and incorporated in the Fire, upon the Superficies of one of the Faces of the Square: And all these Figures with their Draperies and Ornaments, are coloured according to nature, by the due laying together of all the Pieces of the Work. All these little bits are disposed according to the Design which the Workman, has in view, and are strictly adjusted together in the compound Matter, or Plaster prepared to receive them; which presently after becomes hard. The best of this Work is its solidity. It is more than Eight hundred and fifty Years that it hath lasted, without the least diminution of its Beauty.  
The Pavement of the Church is also exceedingly Curious; and tho' it hath been in many places very much spoiled, and in some places worn, it may be thought a kind of Miracle that such great pieces remain still entire, after they have been trod under Foot for so many Ages. They are little pieces of Jaspar, of Porphyry, spotted green Marble, and Marble of divers Colours, which make also Compartments different from each other.  
I pass by the Relics, the miraculous Images, and the other Holy Rarities which are in this Church; only I shall mentition one of them, which seems to me the most curious, viz. the Rock which Moses struck in the Wilderness; It is in the Chapel of— at the end of the Font; it is a kind of greyish Marble: Nothing is more pleasant than the Three little Holes out of which they affirm the Water issued: They are placed Triangular-wise, about Two Fingers from each other, and the Boar of each hole is no bigger than the hollow of a Goose-Quill. I assure you, it is a double Miracle, that so much Water, in so little Time, should issue out of such narrow Holes, as should suffice to quench the thirst of an Army of Six hundred thousand Men, with all their Wives, Children, and Cattle.  
They made us observe a Piece of Porphyry, enchased in the Pavement, in the middle of the Portico of the Church, over-against the great Door; it is to mark out the Place wherein Pope Alexander III. set his Foot, as they say, on the Neck of the Emperor Frederick Barbarossa, when that Prince came to submit to him for the obtaining of a Peace. I am not ignorant that Baronius and some others, have criticized this History, and rejected it as a Fable: But I must tell you, by the by, since Opportunity presents, that  probability may seem to be in the Reasons, they allege, they cannot pass for more than Suspicions and Conjectures, and can never amount to a convincing Refutation of a Story attested by so great a number of Authors.  
Alexander III was a haughty Man, his Enemies had provoked him, and he at last had the Pleasure to Triumph over an Emperor, and Four Anti-popes'. At the very time of his flight into France, he was so proud as to suffer 
* Lovys the young King of France, and Henry II. King of England.  Two Kings who met him, to alight, and both to take the Reins of his Bridle, and lead his Horse to the Lodging prepared for him. If he did this in his Disgrace, what might he not do in his Prosperity?  
From the Church of St. Mark, we went into the Treasury; Three Procurators of St. Mark are the Administrators of it; and it is never opened, but in the presence of one of them. In the first place, you see there the Relics, Pieces of the true Cross; the Bones of the Dead; the Hair and Milk of the Virgin, etc. From thence you pass into another Chamber, where the real Treasure is kept. The greatest part of the things to be seen there, were brought from Constantinople, at the same time with the Brazen Horses, which I mentioned before. I shall only name some of the most considerable Pieces.  
The two Crowns of the Kingdoms of Candia and Cyprus; many fine Vessels of Agate, the Root of an Emerald, and of Crystal of the Rock: These Vessels, say they, belonged to the Cupboard of Constantine; a kind of Seal Eight Inches deep, and as many diameter, made of one only Granat; a very fair Saphire, which, they say, weighs Ten Ounces; Twelve Crosslets of Gold, garnished with Pearls; Twelve Head-Tires in form of Crowns, which served in certain Ceremonies for the Maids of Honour of the Empress Helena to wear; a Cup of one only Turquoises, with Egyptian Characters; this Cup is Seven Inches in diameter, and Three and a half in depth: a Picture of St. Jerome, in fine Mosaic, consisting of Pieces that are not above one Line square; and many other most rare and rich things: 
Camerarius saith this Coronet is not esteemed worth more than Two hundred Thousand Crowns.  The Duke's Coronet is, in my Opinion, the finest of them all; the Circle is of Gold, the Bonnet of Crimson Velvet, and the whole enriched with Stones and Pearls of great price. Charles Paschal pretends to prove, that this Coronet is nothing but the Phrygian Bonnet, or Trojan Mitre, which Antenor brought into this Country, the form whereof may yet be seen in divers Antic Pieces, as in the Statue of Ganymede, which is in the Porch of the Library of St. Mark; upon some Medals of the God Lunus; in some others where you see Aeneas carrying the good Man anchises; 
You may see the form of this Coronet in the Figure of the Duke.  and in Miniatures of the Ancient Manuscript of Virgil in the Vatican.  
This Manuscript puts me in Mind of that which they call The Gospel of St. Mark, 
Mr. pay hath written that it is of the Bark of a Tree; he hath been misinformed, as well as P. Mesrie, who said they were Leaves.  and is here esteemed one of the most precious things in the Treasury. I had time to consider it by a particular Favour. It consists of old Leaves of Parchment, loosed from each other, worn, torn, defaced, and so rotten with Moisture, and other injuries of Time, to which this Book, without doubt, hath been exposed, that one cannot touch it without some bits sticking to one's Fingers; and it is a hard matter to discern any thing in it: This Manuscript was in 4to, about Two Finger's thickness. The Remainders of it are shut up in a Box of vermilion, gilded, made in form of a Book. There remain still some traces of imperfect Characters, but so little that scarce any thing can be distinguished; but by turning over the Leaves, I found Three or Four Letters well formed: I also met with the Word KATA, written as you see. I was with the Abbot Lith, Library-Keeper of St. Mark, and we searched as much as we could, without being able to discover any thing, only that the Margin was broad, and the Lines at a great distance, and ruled with Two little Parallel Scores, to make the Writing straight and equal: This KATA. with one Δ and one Σ, which I also observed in it, prove that it is a 
* Alfonsus Ciaconi●s positively affirms, that this Manuscript is Latin; and this was one of the Reasons upon which Baronius grounded his Opinion, that St. Mark wrote his Gospel in Latin.  Greek Manuscript. But the bare Tradition is not a sufficient Demonstration that it is the Hand of St. Mark: The manner of Writing which I observed, makes me fancy that it's rather the Work of some professed Transcriber. As to the rest, we must rely on common Fame, to believe it a Gospel rather than any thing else, since it is difficult to decipher any Letters in it 
† This History is reported by Sabellicus, Garon, Larutti, and many others. . The Treasury was robbed in the Year 1427, by a certain Candiot named 
* Stamati having made known his designed Robbery to one Zachary Grio, that Grio discovered the Affair, and received a great Reward; but the Thief was hanged between Two Columns or Marble Pillars which are at the Entrance of the Palace, over-against the Loggietta. Louis Garon affirms the Theft was valued at Two Millions of Gold. They say, that the Well in the Court of this Palace cannot be Poisoned, because Two Vnicorn's Horns were cast into it. See To. II. Let. XXXVI.  Stamati, who broke through the Wall; they recovered every thing, but the Thief was sentenced to be hanged; and, they say, he begged the Favour of the Judges, that he might have a Golden Halter, which Civility they granted him. Against the Wall, over the first Door of the Treasury, are two Figures in Mosaic, which, as they tell you, represent St. Dominick, and St. Francis, and which, they add, were made a long time before either of them was born, according to the Prophecy of the Abbot Joachim.  
The Palace of St. Mark joins to the Church: It is a great Building, after the Gothick manner, yet 'tis very Magnificent: It hath been burned four or five times; and the various Reparations of it have spoiled the Uniformity of the Structure. The side which is on the Canal, is built of a kind of hard Stone, brought from Istria, and the Architecture of it is highly esteemed: Were the rest of the Building suitable, it would be a most excellent Piece. The Duke is lodged in this Palace; and here it is that the Council of State and all the Magistracy do meet. The Apartments are large, lofty, and well wainscotted, but dark in comparison of the Light now a-days required in Buildings. The Hall where the Body of the Nobles assemble, which, as you know, composes the Grand Council, in which the Sovereignty of the State resides, is extraordinary large, and adorned with Pictures; among which are the Portraitures of the Dukes; the History of the Conquest of Constantinople, which was taken in the Year 1192, and lost about Threescore Years after; the Picture of Frederick and Alexander is there also, of the largest size, and they have not forgot the Circumstance of the Foot on the Neck. What I observed on this Picture, gives me opportunity to add something to what I have already told you on the same Subject. I think we ought not to take it in a rigorous and strictly literal Sense, what is commonly said; That the Pope set his 
† His  of Gold being laid down at the Feet of Alexander, he begged Pardon, and the Pope putting his Right Foot on his Neck, said the Words of the Psalm, Super Aspidem & Basiliscum ambulabis, & conculcabis Leonem & Draconem: At which Provocation the Emperor answered, Non tibi, sed Petro. And the Pope treading harder, said, Et mihi, & Petro. Theodor. Valle Lit. di Pip. ch. 10. The same Story is unanimously related by a Thousand other Authors.  Foot on the Emperor's Neck. This Action would become less odious, and easier to be believed, when it shall be compared to what is represented in this ancient Picture. The Pope therein appears to put his Foot lightly on the Shoulder of the Emperor, without showing any Motion of Passion: And tho' the History of the Pope's mentions a great Number of 'em as outrageous in their Pride, Brutishness, and Rage; and tho' this Alexander, Proud as he was, and of a revengeful Spirit, might then be guilty of any thing; nevertheless an act of Violence on such an Occasion, amongst Strangers, in a Public Place, and in the sight of all the People, would have been, if well weighed, contrary to the Policy, as well as the Gravity of God's Vicar; whereas, it was not only a noble Briskness, but also the Duty of him who supplies the Place of the Master of the Universe, and whose Government extends itself over all the Kings of the World, on such an Occasion to maintain the Dignity of his Character. It is true, that the Submission and Repentance of the Vassal, aught to have been received with a Spirit of Meekness; but it was just that he should not be acquitted for a single Reverence. It was requisite, as I have said, that the Lieutenant of Jesus Christ, should maintain the Interest of his Master, and that, at least, he should make his Power be known at the same time that he granted his Pardon. And if it be objected, that all this Discourse is founded only on the Fancy of a Painter, who hath represented this Story as he thought fit; I will answer first, that this is a mere precarious assertion. Painters do not always give themselves a latitude, nor do they ordinarily do it to the prejudice of an important circumstance. And I must tell you in the second place, that it is more reasonable to believe this Picture, than to form chimerical Notions to contradict it.  
Some will perhaps allege, that the Shoulder is not the Neck, but It hink it not worth the while to reply to so frivolous an Objection. I hope you will pardon this little digression, to which I have been insensibly engaged, by reason of the discourse we had on this Subject.  
I have yet two things to relate to you, of the Palace of St. Mark, which, amongst others, seem very remarkable. The Rebellion of Bajamonte, 
Bajamonte Tiepele, in the Year 1210.  the Story of which you know, was the occasion of setting up a little Arsenal in the Palace, to which there is a Passage from the Hall of the Grand Council, by a Gallery of Communication; to the end, that if there should be a Plot of the People against the Nobility, and they should enterprise any thing against them whilst they are sitting, they might readily find Arms to defend themselves. It is also, as I may tell you by the by, to provide for their Security, that they have built the little Judgment-seat called the Loggietta, which is at the foot of the Tower of St. Mark, in sight of the Palace, and of the Chamber of the Grand Council. There are always some of the Procurators of St. Mark there, upon the Watch, whilst the Grand Council is assembled, and at the same time are doing other business. This Arsenal is furnished with a competent number of Fusees and Muskets, which lie always ready charged, and a great many other good Arms. There is a Machine which serves to light five hundred Matches at a time. Besides these, they keep there a quantity of curious ancient Arms, amongst which they preserve with great care, the Sword of the Valiant Scanderbag. I observed also there the Bust of 
* Strangled at Milan with his four Children, by order of the Senate of Venice, in the Year 1405.  Francis Carrara, the last Lord of Milan, so famous for his Cruelties. They show there a little Trunk or Toilette, in which are six little Guns, which were so ordered with Springs adjusted in such a manner, that upon the opening of the Trunk, the Guns fired, and killed the Lady, to whom Carrara had sent it for a Present. They show also with this, some little Pocket Crossbows, and Arrows of Steel, with which he made Sport to kill those he met, without their perceiving the Stroke, or him that gave it. There are also Locks, and sundry kinds of Bolts, with which that beastly Monster locked up his Whores. I must not forget the two little Statues of Adam and Eve, which Albert Durer made in Prison, with the point of a Penknife only, and for which he obtained his Liberty.  
The other particulars which I shall yet observe of the Palace of St. Mark, are the Antic Mouths under the inner Portico; and in several places of the Galleries there are several Heads jutting out, 
The Discoverers are sometimes rewarded. They make themselves known by a bit of Paper torn from the Billet and put into the Box.  into the Throats of which any Body may cast a Letter or Note, as into a Trunk, to give what Advice he thinks fit to the Inquisitors of the State. They have the Keys of these Boxes, and make use of the Notices they find, according to their Judgement and Equity. This is what they call the Secret Accusation.  
The Library is in the Procuraties over-against the Palace, and on the other side of the Broglio; there are several Greek Manuscripts in it, which were given by the Cardinal Bessarion, who you know was a Grecian. I could not learn that there was any thing rare in this Library, only another Manuscript, De consideratione Dei, which they attribute to St. Augustin. I cannot tell what reasons induce them to believe it, but it is very certain, that the Title of this Treatise is not in the Index of Possidius. A Friend of mine, who hath traveled into Spain, told me, that there is in the Escurial, a Manuscript-Treatise of Baptism, which also passes for St. Augustine's, and which is different from that which we have of this ancient: Doctor against the Donatists. They say in that Country, that Charles the Fifth refused fifty thousand Pistols for it. I believe that poor Prince would have gladly taken them, when at his latter End he was forced to sell his Jewels. But to return to the Library; tho' it be none of the most numerous, rarest, and best conditioned Libraries in the World; yet, to make amends, it is adorned with Pictures, by Titian, and some other famous Masters, which are infinitely esteemed. There are also many Greek Statues of admirable Beauty, particularly the abovementioned Ganymede, carried away by Jupiter, transformed into an Eagle; a Venus; an Apollo; and two Gladiators. They give out, that there are as many fine Pictures at Venice, as at Rome, and we have already seen good store of them: But this is a subject I pretend not to enter upon: I will only tell you, that the three most celebrated Pieces that are to be seen in the Churches, or in public Places, are the Wedding of Cana, by Paul Veronese, in the Refectory of St. George Major. The Presentation of the Virgin by Titian, in the School of Charity. And the 
* This St. Peter was a Dominican, and Inquisitor-general in Lombardy. He was knocked on the Head with his Companions by some Sectaries whom he Persecuted. This happened near to Balassina, in the way from Como to Milan.  St. Peter Martyr in St. John and St. Paul's, by the same Titian. Venice is perhaps the only City of Europe, where young Painters may best Study Nature itself. There are two Academies, where there are always naked Persons of both Sexes to be viewed, and which are often on the Stage together, in what posture they please to put them. Every body may come in there, and you cannot believe with what boldness these little Creatures will endure to be gazed on by all the World.  
I shall answer in a few words your Question concerning the Flux and Reflux, by confirming, without doubt, what you have learned elsewhere. The Sea flows six hours, and ebbs as much: It is later every day by three quarters of an hour, or thereabouts, as upon the Coasts of the Sea you are acquainted with; and the Tide rises ordinarily at Venice four foot, or four foot and an half. But it is sometimes more, and sometimes less, as in all other places; and it agrees with the Moon, after the usual manner: I shall take care to impart to you the Observations I made all along the Gulf from Ravenna to Loretto.  
The Shore is extremely pleasant beyond those long and narrow Isles, which make as it were Banks on the East side, and which form a kind of Semicircle from North to South, round about Venice. This is properly called the main Sea: There you find Shellfish, and the Walk is very divertising when the Wether is Calm. They get store of Oysters there, but they want the excellent savour of ours. They are looked upon as hurtful, and Strangers abstain from eating so many as in other places.  
You have reason to say, that Policy and Liberty are two Words, which are in high esteem at Venice. But it must be allowed, that it is not the Venetians only who magnify their own Policy. All the World, in my Opinion, doth acknowledge, that they endeavoured to refine this Study, and have gained the point. This is an Opinion which I neither can nor will contest; I shall only offer two Observations touching this Subject: The first is, that when we speak generally of the Policy of Venice, we run immediately to a consideration which fills our Minds with Prejudices. Before we proceed to take a nearer and more exact view of this boasted Policy, we judge of it by a deceitful appearance of a false and ill-grounded Experience. The Republic of Venice, say they, hath maintained itself for these twelve or thirteen hundred Years. What a wonderful thing is this, add they, and what greater proof can be desired of the Excellency of its Government? I say, that by resting here, without further scrutiny, they draw a false Consequence from an ill-grounded Principle. To reason justly, after this manner of speaking, the Republic of Venice must really have always maintained itself under one and the same Government: One might then admire the wise and happy Conduct of its Counsels, which, by the various results of their Prudence, had preserved their State for so long a succession of Ages. But the business will not go that way. To what purpose is it to dissemble, what is obvious to the sight and knowledge of all the World? The truth is, that the Government of Venice hath often changed its Constitution, without affirming what some maintain, that this Republic hath rendered Homage to the Kings of Italy. It is in vain to deny, that the Dukes were for a long time absolute Sovereigns; whether by Right or Usurpation, it matters not. The Republic of Venice was no more a Republic, when their Dukes commanded there with an Arbitrary Power, than the Commonwealth of Rome was a Commonwealth, under the first Caesar's, or during the Triumvirate. And therefore we must carefully observe the differerence between these two Propositions: The Republic of Venice maintained itself for twelve hundred Years; or, Venice was a State, or the Head of a State for twelve hundred Years. The first of these Propositions, in a strict sense, is really false; for the Reasons I alleged. The second is true; but nothing can be concluded from it. One might as well say, that Rome has been the Head of a State, for above two thousand four hundred Years, but could not from thence conclude, that the State of Rome had maintained itself during all that time; for to change its face and constitution, is not to maintain itself.  
My second Remark upon this Policy, which makes so much noise, is, that the Signiory of Venice being confined within so narrow limits, in comparison of the great States of the World, and all the ambition of this Republic; I speak principally as it stands at present, being only to live quietly and peaceably with all the World; I see no necessity it hath of such great activity of Spirit, or high efforts of Wit, to maintain itself in quiet. When the Republic of Rome aspired to the Empire of the Universe, when it endeavoured to fill the World with its Colonies, and had already made so many Kings its Tributaries, and was to find out the Secret, to make itself both feared and loved by the Provinces it had newly subdued; then it was that Policy was necessarily required. But there is no such occasion for it at Venice. If the little Republic of St. Marin should make Rhodomontades of its Policy on the Broglio, do you not think it would justly be laughed at? And, without derogating from the Glory and Power that Venice hath several times acquired; it is certainly true, that Venice is no more to be compared to old Rome, than St. Marin can come in competition with Venice.  
I might add, for a third Remark, that the wonderful Policy of Venice hath not hindered the many declensions into which that Republic hath fallen.  
The Commonwealth's-men talk of nothing but their Liberty; yet these poor People are Slaves to their Masters, as all other People are, under what Government soever they live: And, in the mean time, they stuff their Heads, with I know not what pretended notions of Liberty, as if every one of them were a little Prince. But it must be confessed, that the Inhabitants of Venice, have more reason than any to boast of theirs. I will tell you in two words, what that Liberty is: You must never in the least meddle with the Affairs of State: You must commit no enormous Crimes punishable by Justice, which may render you, by their notoriety subject to be taken notice of; and for the rest, you may do what you please, without troubling your Head with what People talk of you. This is the sum of the Venetian Liberty. I might tell you many things on this Subject, very particular and scarcely to be believed: But these reflections having already carried me too far, we will defer the further consideration of 'em to another opportunity.  
To answer your Questions about the toleration of Religions, I can tell you, that the Greeks, the Armenians, and the Jews, are allowed the public Exercise of their Religions; all other Sects are suffered or connived at, but they order their Meetings after so secret and prudent a manner, that the Senate hath no reason to complain of the Abuses or Indiscretion of any Person.  
Moreover, though the Worshipping of Images and Relics, and many other Superstitions reign at Venice, it is only amongst the common People, to whom they are willing to grant these amusements. The eminent Wits care neither for this, nor any thing else. Formerly the Venetians were as simple as the rest of the Popish World. The Excommunications of the Pope scared them, and sometimes did them a great deal of Mischief. That of Clement V for example, made a terrible pother among 'em, and spoiled all their Trade: But now they trouble not themselves about 'em, and the Liberties of the Venetian Church are at present as great as those of the Gallican. They take notice of the Pope as a Prince, but do not much regard him as Pope. When the Jesuits, who are the most potent support of that which they call the Holy See, would have submitted themselves to the order of Suspension, which all the Clergy of Venice had from Pope Paul the Fifth, they were drawn out as Enemies and Disturbers of the State. And tho' for some Reasons at the instant solicitations of the Court of Rome, they were afterwards recalled; it was on condition that they should not raise Seditions as they formerly had done. And even tho' they continued still to entertain such designs, the Republic knows how to order them: but considering the Precautions that are used, the toleration of the Jesuits at Venice can produce no ill Consequences: For, as I am told, they suffer none there but such as are born subjects to the State; and they assure me, that the Superior must be a Native of the City. In a word, it is certain that Messieurs of Venice suffer themselves to be Governed neither by the Priests nor the Monks. Those Fathers are permitted to wear Masks during the Carnival, to treat their Concubines, sing on the Stages, and do what they please, but they dare not thrust their Noses into the Affairs of State. The Senate is wise enough to be sensible of the disorders which happen when they are permitted to meddle with the Government: Nor do they consult them when any thing comes under deliberation.  
I have taken particular care to examine the Creed of the Greeks which are here, touching the Articles of which you writ. But to speak freely, though I find them professed Enemies of the Roman Religion, and that they declaim furiously against the Usurpations of the Bishop of Rome, when they speak with freedom: I perceive by their Discourse, that whether by Contagion, or by some other reason they differ very much in many points from the other Greek Churches, which are at present under the Dominion of the Turk; at least if we may believe the relations of those Countries. So that the Opinions of these ought not to make us conclude any thing concerning the belief of the Greeks in general. To deal plainly with you, they declare that they believe Transubstantiation, which is not enough to determine the Question, which has made so much noise, and at the bottom makes nothing against those who will not admit that Doctrine. They make use of common Bread, they mingle Water with the Wine, and communicate under both kinds. There are two Altars in their Church, one which they call the Altar of Preparation, and the other of Consecration. On the first they cut the Bread with a Knife, like the Steel head of a Spear. There also they mingle the Water with the Wine, and the Priest takes it with a Sponge out of the Vessel in which it was first mixed, and afterwards squeezes it out into the Chalice. They embrace one another before they receive the Sacrament: And the Communicants receive the Bread steeped in the Wine, the Priest putting it with a Spoon into their Mouths: All this we saw. The Archbishop who officiated, had a Mitre fashioned like an Imperial Crown, and all his other Ornaments were magnificent; and they were changed from time to time, according to the several parts of the Service.  
There are amongst them an infinite number of Ceremonies and Mysteries. When the Bishop blesses the People, he holdeth in his Right-hand a Candlestick of three branches, with the Tapers lighted, which is as an Emblem of the Persons of the Trinity. The Candlestick which he holds in his Lefthand, hath two Branches, to denote the two Natures of Jesus Christ. I will not engage further into the confused number of these mysterious Representations. Their Churches are divided into four Parts; the Altars are in the place which they call Holy, at one end of the Church. There are none but he who officiates, and those who serve him who commonly enter there. The second place is appointed for the other parts of the Service: The Men are in the third place, which is separated only from the second by little Balisters, and the Women are behind a Lettuce, at the other end of the Church, or in the Galleries. All the Service is performed in vulgar Greek, which is their natural Language, and understood by the People. They highly condemn the use of unknown Languages in the Church: They worship standing, bowing the Head, and putting their Hands on their Breast. Those who are married, may come to Ecclesiastical Preferments without quitting their Wives: But those that are received before Marriage, are not afterwards suffered to marry. They say decency permits not a Person to marry above thrice; so that they forbidden fourth Marriages. They deny Purgatory, and you know by what Principles: They pray for the Dead. There are very few here who believe a Temporary Hell from which the Elect are delivered; but they pray for the Souls which they say are in a separate State, expecting the last Judgement. The use of Confession is much practised amongst them, but not after the Roman manner. The Article of the proceeding of the Holy Ghost, they put in the rank of those which are more curious than edifying; insomuch that it is now passed over with as much silence as formerly it made noise. They keep certain Relics as precious and sacred Memorials, but render no Worship to them. I remember I have read in Thevet, That the Greeks of Athens solemnly excommunicate the Pope on Good-Friday. And the Monk Surras reports, That at Jerusalem they pray to God every day in a certain part of the Public Service, that he would keep them still under the Dominion of the Turk, rather than suffer them to fall under that of Rome.  
I have used all my endeavours to obtain some particular Information, concerning the Creed and Worship of the Armenians, that I might know it from the first hand; but I have not hitherto had an opportunity to get acquaintance with any of them, nor have I yet been present at their Public Worship, because they are at present at Work in the repair of their Church, and so cannot yet assemble there. One of my Friends, among other things, assured me of these four or five Articles. That they Communicate under both kinds: That they give the Sacrament to little Children: That they believe the sequestration of Souls as the Greeks do: That they give a Bill of Divorce: That they believe there will be no difference of Sexes after the Resurrection. And after all, there are so many particular Opinions among all these People, that it is not easy to tell positively what they believe.  
There are yet many particulars in my Journal, with which I might entertain you at present; but I had rather join them to those other Observations which I shall make hereafter, that I may have occasion to add also such new Instructions as I hope to receive.  
I was just now with the Abbot Lith, whom I mentioned before; and it comes into my Mind to inform you, before I finish my Letter, of a thing which he assured me of, and I should have been sorry to have forgotten, though it hath no relation to Venice. We were discoursing of the few numerous Families which are taken notice of here, in comparison to other places; and he told me, on this occasion, that one of his Kindred had twenty four Sons by one Wife, who were all married; and that all the twenty four with their several Wives, had been seen in a Company together: Though there is nothing in this but what is very possible, yet is it a thing extremely rare.  
I hope I shall quickly receive one of your Letters: As for me, I will not fail to write to you before I depart from hence.  
I am, SIR, Yours, etc. At Venice, Jan. 20. 1688.   

LETTER XVII.  
SIR,  
The Bridge of Rialto  
Vol. 2. P. 182.   depiction of the Bridge of Rialto 
The best Houses of Venice are upon the great Canal; and there are some which appear very 
* Above all the Palaces of Pisani, Morosini, Lorodano, Rosini, Vandramino, Grimani.  magnificent: These are great Bulks, which would have no Beauty, were it not for the Mask which I told you of in my Letter from Vicenza; I mean that Frontispiece which commonly consists of Two or Three Orders of Architecture, and which covers the Building on that side which is most in view; and the rest is ill ordered, and no way pleasing to the Eye, I mean the rest of their outsides.  
The Lagunes may cause you to judge, that the Air of Venice is unwholesome; but they assure us of the contrary. However they cannot say the same of the Water, which is almost all very bad. Of more than One hundred and fifty Wells which are here, there are but Two or Three good for any thing; and the best Water is the Rain-Water which some private Persons reserve in Cisterns. The common Wines are also very unpleasant; that which they call (dolce) sweet, is of a palled, disgustful taste; and the (Garbo) or sour, on the contrary is extremely sharp. After they have drawn off the pure Liquor, they mix Water with the Husks, that they may squeeze some sharpness from the Grapes, which give it some piquant briskness, but makes it very harsh; otherwise this mixture palls the Wine very much, and weakens it, which never had much Strength in itself. They have also a very ill way of making their Bread; Let it be as fresh as you will, the Paste is so hard, that you must break it as they do Biscuit, with a Hammer. In other things you are well enough treated.  
Strangers have so little Commerce with the Natives of this Country, that it is difficult to learn their Customs, and Manners of House-keeping: Wherefore I can say very little concerning these things. I read the other day in a Preface of Henry Stephens, that in his time, they had an ill Opinion in France, of a Woman who went Bare-necked; whereas in Italy, and particularly at Venice, every old Hag exposed her withered and swagging Breasts to view. But things are much 
* There are none but professed Whores who show their Necks bare.  changed since his time. At present the Women of Quality are shut up so close, that you can scarcely see their Face; not even in the Churches, which are the only places where they appear in Public. When they go abroad, they are shut up in their Gondola's, and accompanied with Two or Three old Women, who never leave them. The ordinary Women cover themselves with a great Scarf, which opens only a little before their Eyes; and they go abroad but rarely, because the Men make Provision, and take care of all Business without Doors.  
They send the Girls to the Convent in their tenderest Infancy; and when grown up, they conclude their Marriages without their Knowledge; nay often without letting them see their future Husbands. That you may not be surprised at this, you are to know that they make not Marriages here on the same Accounts they do in other places. They never trouble themselves with Love, Affection, or Esteem. If any of those things happen, it is good luck; but they mind nothing but Kindred and Riches, not regarding the Person. The use of Concubines is so generally received, that the greatest part of the Wives live in good Correspondence with their Rivals; and that way the Men remedy the personal Faults of the Women which they marry. There is also another sort of keeping Concubines, very much used by those of tender Consciences; a thing in truth very rare at Venice. It is a kind of clandestine Marriage, the Ceremony whereof is not performed a long time after the Consummation; and commonly some Days, or some Hours perhaps, only before the death of one of the Parties. The Men find this Method convenient, because it keeps the Women in perpetual awe, and constant complaisance, being in daily fear of being turned off. I know a rich Merchant who hath lived thus for above Twenty Years with his Female Companion; when he is in a good Humour, he will promise to marry her before he dies, and make their Children his Heirs. But the most usual practice is, to live on the Common, at so long kept, so much paid, until the first desire of change, without fixing on any certain Person either for Wife or Concubine. Those who have not the Means singly to keep a Whore, join with Two or Three Friends; and this Plurality, which would in other places be insupportable, does here make the Knot of Friendship firmer between Companions of equal Fortunes. Libertinism, in respect of Women, is turned to so common and general a Custom, that, to speak truly, it takes away all sense and remembrance of the Sin. As one of their finest Strokes of Policy here, is to bring up all Persons in Effeminacy, and especially the young Nobility: The Mothers are the first who find out Courtesans for their Sons, that they may be sure to hinder them from falling into Contagious Pits; and when they have agreed with the Father and Mother for some young poor Maiden; all her Kindred come, and in cold Blood, wish her Joy, as if it were for a Marriage lawfully contracted. You would be surprised to see a Mother deliver up her Daughter, for a certain Sum of Money, Monthly or Yearly paid; and swear solemnly by God, and her own Soul, that she cannot afford it for less. We must not say that all Mothers will do the same, but certainly it is a thing commonly practised. I was informed by a good Catholic, that the Confessors will not trouble themselves with little Stories of this Work, they will not hear such Trifles, but ask presently, quatite altra cosa, something else. Besides, there are none but some Fools of Foreign Courtesans, who by a kind of nice Scruple which they bring from their own Country, have accustomed themselves from time to time to hear a Mass. It is true, this costs them but little, because those they employ have reciprocally need of their Assistance; they are not unkind to each other; and it is not difficult so to order Affairs, that they may have no occasion to be out of Pocket. There are whole Streets of Ladies of Pleasure, who entertain all Comers; and whereas the Habits of other Persons are black and melancholy, these are clothed in red and yellow, like Tulips; with their Breasts open, their Faces painted foot deep, and always a Nosegay above their Ears: you may see them by Dozen at the Gates or Windows; and the Passers by seldom 'scape them without a torn Sleeves.  
The Carnival always gins the second Holiday in Christmas; that is to say, from thence they are permitted to wear Masks, and to open the Playhouses and Gaming-Houses: Then they are not satisfied with the ordinary Libertinism, they improve all their Pleasures, and plunge into them up to the Neck. All the City is disguised; Vice and Virtue were never so well counterfeited, and absolutely change both Names and Customs. The place of St. Mark is filled with a Thousand sorts of Jack-Puddings. Strangers and Courtesans come in Shoals from all parts of Europe: There is every where a general Motion and Confusion. You would swear, that all the World were turned Fools in an Instant. It is true, that the fury of these Bacchanals comes not presently to the height; there is some moderation in the beginning. But when they begin to be sensible of the dreaded Approach of the fatal Wednesday, which imposes an universal Silence, than it is that they celebrate their great Feasts, and all without revel on Shrove-Tuesday Masquerade. Since it is true, that every thing must be attributed to the Policy of Venice, you must suppose there are particulr Reasons for the permitting this Licentiousness of the Carnival; and perhaps we need not search for any great Mystery. I shall intimate Two things which come into my Head on this Occasion: The common People always love Sports and other Divertisements. As abominable as that Monster Nero was, he was lamented by the Mobb, because of his Shows. I imagine then, that the Nobility, who otherwise are not well beloved, are very glad to find some cunning ways to please and amuse the People. There is yet another thing which seems to me of some moment. I am credibly informed, that at the last Carnival, there was an account of Seven Sovereign Princes, and Thirty thousand other Foreigners. Consider how much Money all this Multitude must have brought to Venice.  
I must, according to your desire, give you my Sentiment of the Operas and Comedies acted here; tho' in the mean time, I must confess my averseness to meddle with this particular; because I fear I shall in your Opinion be esteemed too singular in mine. You seem to me to be possessed with great Prejudices in favour of these famous Shows; and I fancy you expect something which may exceed the Idea you have already seen of them. I entreat you then, to set aside all your Prejudices, and to believe I will do as much; that I may be able to give you an impartial Account of things as I found them. I will do it in few Words, without criticising on Operas in general, in which I have always been offended at some Passages which seem contrary both to Probability and Reason. But since you will have it so, we will suppose that all the Representation of an Opera, is the best contrived thing in the World; and I will keep myself within the Bounds you have prescribed me, which is to speak to you with relation to Operas which you have seen at Paris: It is undeniable matter of Fact, that the Ornaments of those here fall extremely short of these; the Habits are poor, no Dances, and commonly no Machine's, nor any Illuminations, only some Candles here and there, which deserve not to be mentioned. 'Tis dangerous not to magnify the Italian Music, or to say, at least, any thing against it. Neither will I insist on this Subject, but confess, in the general, that they have most excellent Airs, and that there are some good Voices amongst them. Thus, for Example, the Vicentin Songster of the Hospitalettes is a little charming Creature. But I cannot forbear telling you, that I find I know not what Confusion and Unpleasantness in several Parts of the Songs in their Operas: They dwell many times longer on one Quavering, than in singing Four whole Lines; and often they run so fast, that it is hard to tell whether they Sing or Speak, or whether they do either or both together. Every one has his Humour for me; I confess, amongst other things, the overstrained Shrill agrees not with me, tho' there be much trouble to reach it, and it be wonderfully grateful to the Ears of those People. The Concert is much less than at Paris, but perhaps it is never the worse for that. There is also one thing which charms them, which I believe would not please you; I mean those unhappy Men who basely suffer themselves to be maimed, that they may have the finer Voices. The silly Figure, which in my Opinion, such a mutilated Fellow makes, who one time acts the Bully, and sometimes the Passionate Lover, with his Effeminate Voice, and wrinkled Face, is not to be endured. It is impossible that Fellows of this Make can have Spirits necessary for the Beauty of Action; and indeed there is nothing more cold and feeble than the manner after which they act their Parts.  
There are at present Seven several Operas at Venice; and one cannot choose but be there every Evening, if it were only but to find Company: But since you would have me speak ingenuously, I I must tell you, that we impatiently expect the end of the Piece, before we have heard a quarter of it. You must know there is a Buffoon in every Opera: You may imagine what a Figure this Actor makes with his Fooleries in the most Serious, and even sometimes most Tragical part of the Play. I will say little of their Comedies; all the World knows they are but ridiculous Fustain, and wretched Buffooneries, scurvily performed. Nevertheless, let them be never so silly, there is always some Grimace, with some Posture or Trick of Harlequin, that makes the Spectators laugh; the most luscious Bawdy is pronounced in the most expressive terms, and the little Damsels of those Societies never mince the matter. When they are just ready to begin, they commonly open the Doors for the Messieurs, the Watermen, who make a considerable Body at Venice, and are urey necessary Persons. Their Office on this Occasion is to clap their Hands, and bawl out like Madmen, to give from time to time Applause to the Actors. I cannot either express, or make you conceive what Terms they use when they congratulate the Women; who receive also other Applauses, by Sonnets made for them, and printed, which you shall see fly from all sides of the Theatre. Before I finish this Article, I must tell you, that these Theatres belong to some Noblemen, who get considerably by them, tho' they continue no longer than the Carnival lasts.  
The places which they call Ridettis, are properly the Academies of Basset: They are opened at the same time with the theatres; there are none but Noblemen who cut. They dismiss the Gamesters when they please; and they have so much good Fortune joined to their Privileges, and good Play, that the Bank is almost always Fortunate. There are Ten or Twelve Chambers on a Floor, with Gaming-Tables in all of them. You can scarcely turn yourself in them; but tho' the Throng is so great, yet is there a profound Silence. To come into these places you must necessarily be masked. The Courtesans come thither in Shoals; and the other Ladies also, who under their Masks may enjoy all the public Pleasures of the Carnival; but they still are followed by Spies, or by their Husbands. Besides the Chambers of Play, there are some for Conversation, where they also sell Liquors, Sweetmeats, and such like things. They put not off their Masks; and by the Privilege of this Disguise, provided they be in good , they may speak to the Ladies, even to those whom they may suppose of the highest Quality: But you must injure no Body. Beside that the Mask is Sacred, one will seem to take no notice, who hears all that is said to his Wife, and who hath a great many Bravoes at his Heels, for by that name they call the Hectors and professed Murderers. Not that it is impossible to act a piece of Gallantry 
* In the business of the Ladies, it suffices at Venice to have good Breeding, and Money, and sometimes to give a noble Treat. Anc. Des. of Venice.  with the best guarded of them, when they are not over severe. As the Difficulty augments the Desire, so this Desire invents the Means; and those who understand the Practice of this Country, will do more with the Wink of an Eye, than in other Countries we can perform by the longest Assiduities: But all these things are out of my Sphere, therefore I must beg your leave to go on.  
The greatest Masquerading is in the place of St. Mark; where the Crowd is sometimes so great, that one cannot turn himself: You may put yourself in what Equipage you please, but to do it well, you must be able to maintain the Personage you represent. Thus, for example, when the Harlequins meet, they jeer one another, and act a thousand Fooleries. The Doctor's dispute. The Bullies vapour and swagger; and so of the rest. Those who are not willing to be Actors on this great Theatre, take the Habit of Noblemen. Some Polonian Dress, or the like, which obliges them to nothing. Maskers are not permitted to wear Swords. The Women are Habited as they please, and are to be seen there in most magnificent Dresses. In the mean time the place is filled with Puppet-Plays, Rope-Dancers, and all sorts of such People as you see at Bartholomew-Fair. But those which in my Opinion are the pleasantest of all, are a kind of Almanac-makers and Fortune-tellers, who have their little Stages environed with Spheres, Globes, Astronomical Figures, Characters, and Conjuring-Books of all sorts: these Pronouncers of Oracles have a long Pipe of Tin, with which they speak in the Ear of the Curious, who stand below the Scaffold. They speak more or less according to the Persons, and observe, without any notice taken, the Countenance of the Consulter: when they perceive he Smiles, and by some other gesture denotes his Approbation, they give over speaking a little, and ring a little Bell with wondrous Gravity, to make known, that by virtue of their Art, they have dived into a very secret Affair, or else that they have hit extraordinarily right. When they swear only By God, it signifies nothing; that is only a common Road of speaking, which no body regards. But when they would be believed, they call to witness the Saint of Milan, or the most blessed Lady of Loretto, and then all the standers by look seriously and devoutly, and pull off their Hats, as when a Psalm is sung at the Gallows. It is pleasant to see the Priests and the Monks of all Orders, who take up the Tubes three quarters of the time.  
I will say nothing of the Bull-baitings, 
Consult the Book of the S. Didiers.  Goose-catching, Combats at Fifty-Cuffs, Balls, Races of the Gondola's, or of their Feasting on Shrove-Tuesday, on which day they cut off a Bull's-Head, before all the Senate, in memory of a Victory in Friuli. These Stories are too long to be related; neither am I particularly acquainted with them.  
Moreover, you must know, that the Carnival is not the only time in which they wear Masks at Venice. They use 'em in all Feasts of Pleasure; with the Mask they run to the Audiences of Ambassadors: And on Ascension-day all are masked from the Noblemen in the Bucentaur, to the Mobb in the City. All these are admirable Times for the Gondoliers; not only because of the profit it brings them by their Gondola's, but because it is a time of Intrigues; and a Gondolier will undertake any thing. They know all the turns and byways; they pretend to know the critical Minutes, and the private Stairs, and to hold correspondence with the Waiting-Women: they furnish Ladders of Cords on occasion; they promise in your Ear, to bring you to places esteemed otherwise inaccessible; they are for all uses, and would perform the Trade of Bravoes, if necessity required. Their great business is Pimping: They offer, without ask, to deposit a Sum of Money, and lose it, if their Wares prove unsound.  
A Common Gondola  
Vol. 2. Pag. 198   depiction of a gondola 
The Arsenal of Venice passes for one of the fairest and greatest of Europe; and all the World agree, that it is a most important Piece. But it is to be considered, that it is the only one which the Venetians have in Italy; and all the Ammunition they have is stored up here: And besides, half the Stories that are told of it are not true. 
They show a Piece of Cannon which was made whilst a Duke was at Dinner, it is in the 22 d. Lodge. Henry the Third was Treated in the 23 d. and during the time of the Collation, they built one whole Galley, and cast six Cannon. pay.  Those who show it would have you believe, that there are two thousand five hundred Pieces of Cannon, good Arms for one hundred thousand and Foot, complete Equipages for twenty five thousand Horse: These are words soon spoke, but not so easily made good. You must further observe, that the enclosure of this Arsenal comprehends also the Magazines for the Vessels, Casting-Houses, Rope-Yards, Forges, Lodges for the Galleasses, Galleys, and the Bucentaure, besides the Havens and Docks for building and refitting of Vessels. This is what makes the extraordinary greatness of the Arsenal, they have some Ships of War, of which the greatest, which is called the Redeemer, hath, as they say, fourscoure Pieces of Cannon mounted, and fourteen Pateraro's; it is at present at Sea. The Galleasses have three Batteries in the Prow, and two in the Poop; the Crew ought to be one hundred ninety two Galleyslaves, at six on a Bench. The Bucentaure is a kind of very great Galleass, very much adorned with Sculptures and Gild. The Duke, accompanied with the Senate, and a great number of the Nobility, every Year, on Ascension-day, goes on Board this Vessel with great Pomp 
† As if they became the Husbands of Thetis, or the Wives of Neptune, they marry the Sea every Year. Lewis Helian. Henry III went from Venice to Murano, in the Bucentaure. Mezeray.  to marry the Sea. That which they made use of when Alexander III instituted this Ceremony, in confirmation to the Venetians of that Empire, which they said they already had over the Gulf, was called the Bucentaure; and since that they have kept this name, and consecrated it to all the Vessels destined to that Ceremony. The Captain of the Bucentaure makes Oath the day when he is received, and engages his Life that he will bring her back safe and sound, in spite of all Winds and Tempests whatsoever.  

It was burned before in 1507.  The Arsenal was in great part burnt, in the Year, 1565. and they say, that the cracks of the burning were heard at forty Miles distance. There are three Noblemen who govern it; and the Galleasses are also commanded by Noblemen: All considerable Employments passing through their hands.  
A Bucentaure  
Vol. 1. Pag. 200   depiction of a Bucentaure 
The Nobles never appear publicly at Venice, but in their Robes of black Cloth; these they wear at all times, and they ought to be lined with greyish Cloth in the Winter, and Ermines in the Summer. The Stole is of the same Cloth. The Girdle is black also, four Fingers broad, and garnished with Plates and Buckles of Silver; and their Bonnet is only a kind of Cap of black Worsted, with a little Fringe of the same: But they wear great Perukes, and commonly carry their Cap in their hands. The Procurators of St. Mark, the Savii grandi, and the others, who are possessed of the highest Offices, have Habits to distinguish them. Those amongst the Nobles, who have been Ambassadors may wear a Stole of Cloth of Gold, and put Buckles of Gold to their Girdles: But ordinarily they only adorn their black Stoles with a little Gold Galloom. The Physicians, Advocates, Notaries, and all those which are called Cittadini, are habited like the Nobles, without any distinction. It would not always be pleasing to these to be known by their Habits; for such a distinction might expose them to great dangers, should any disorder happen. They cause themselves to be treated with Excellency, and the manner to salute them with great submission is to kiss their Sleeve. The Elbow of this Sleeve is like a great Sack, and into that, those who go to Market put their Provision. They are not followed by any Servant, and no Person salutes them, but he who knows them, except those who wear the same Robe. The People fear them and love them but little; but I will not say that this proceeds from any ill Treatment they receive from them. Friendship grows commonly from Converse; we may then suppose it is because the Nobles make themselves familiar with no body. They dare not make themselves popular, for fear lest they should be accused of Caballing against the State. This same reason hinders them to visit each other; and renders them inaccessible to Foreigners. You must confess, that this savage and sour Policy is very troublesome. It is hard that a Government cannot be happy without destroying the bands and communications of Society, which are the chief Pleasures of this Life! I must further tell you, on this Article, that the Nobility is not entailed to the Elder Sons only, as in England. They are not permitted to Trade, nor to marry with Foreigners.  
I am not surprised at the trouble those Titles of Marquesses and Counts give you, which you hear spoken of in the Country's depending on Venice. I will explain the matter to you. The Noble Venetians pretend to be equal to Princes, but never qualify themselves by any particular Title: And the Marquesses and Counts which you tell me of, are no Noblemen of Venice. These Gentlemen are of three sorts; Some of them really enjoyed these Dignities, before they became Subjects to this State, but they have lost the Privileges of their Titles, and keep only the Name. They have always taken care at Venice to humble them, and to take from them all means of thinking to shake off the Yoke, or return under the Dominion of their ancient Masters; and one of the ways which they have observed for this, hath been to create Counts of a new Stamp, who make head against the others, and so take away the distinction by a confusion of Titles, which have the same sound. The other advantages which Venice draws from this Invention, would make here too long a digression; only I have informed you what are the Marquesses and Counts of the second Order. Those of the third are founded on some Pretensions of their Ancestors. If they were not altogether Counts, in the time of the ancient Government, they had at least a great desire to be so. And when the face of Affairs was changed, they made themselves Counts, I know not how, without any endeavours used to hinder them, because they got no real advantage by it.  
Th' ᵉ Doge of Venise  
Vanitas Vanitatum   depiction of the Doge of Venice 
To return to the Duke: You must know, that notwithstanding all his Slavery, and his little Authority, his Quality of Duke allows him two or Three small Privileges. He hath two Voices in the great Council: He bestows the little Offices of the Palace; and he hath the Nomination of the Primicerio, and Canons of St. Mark. As for his other Honours, they are given to the Republic, in the Person of the Duke. In this sense he is called Prince, and treated with Serenity, which is a term of Honour above that of Highness, according to their Interpretation. There are some Marks of Royalty in his Apparel. When he marches in State, they carry a Torch before him, 
* This Chair hath two Arms, and no Back.  a Folding Chair, the Cushion which belongs to it, and Eight Silver Trumpets, some Oboes, and Eight Standards, on which are the Arms of Venice: There are Two White, Two Red, Two Violet, and Two Blue, which, 'tis said, signify Peace, War, Truce, and the League. They made us take notice, that the Two Red ones marched first; because the Republic was at present in War. When it was at Peace, the White ones have the precedency; and so the rest in order. They carry also near the Duke, a kind of Cloth of State, made like an Umbrello. The Duke is ordinarily accompanied with the Nuncio, and the other Ambassadors which are at Venice, except the Ambassador of Spain, who never assists at any public Ceremony, since this State gave the Precedency to the Ambassador of France. These Ministers have their Hats on their Heads. As for the Duke, he never pulls off his Coronet but on one of these two Occasions; either at the moment when the Host is elevated, or when he receives a Visit from a Prince of Royal Blood, or from a Cardinal. I must tell you, that the Cardinal sits in the same great Chair with the Duke; this Chair having a Spring and Machine made on purpose to let it out so as Two may sit together: The Duke gives the Right-hand to the Cardinal. But to return to the Procession: The Principal Senators march after, and the Sword of State is carried before them, to denote that the Authority resides in the Council, not in the Duke. I am not well enough informed of the particulars of the rest of this Procession, to give you an exact Description of it; but it is not very material. I must farther acquaint you, that the Money bears the Name of the Duke: That the Letters of the Confederate Princes and States are addressed to him: That he gives Audience to Ambassadors, and that Declarations are published in his Name. These last Particulars need some Explanation: The Name of the Duke is, in truth, on the Money, but his Arms are not; and his Image is there only Historically. This Money is properly the Coin of Venice. On the Reverse is the Duke on his Knees, at the Foot of the Primicerio, who sits and represents St. Mark. The Duke takes an Oath of Fidelity to him, having one Hand on the Mass-Book, and with the other receiving the Banner of the State. By this you may perceive that this is no Honour to the Duke; and that his Image has no more Marks of Authority than that of the Primicerio. As for the Letters of Princes, the truth is, they are directed and presented to the Duke; but it belongs not to him to open them, without first communicating them to the Council; that is to say, the Council receives them by his Hands. And it is much the same thing with respect to Ambassadors; For the Affair is consulted before, and the Answer is so well put, Word for Word, into the Mouth of the Duke, that if any of them happen to forget, or perhaps to make a willing Mistake, they are astonished to find themselves corrected on the Spot. As to what concerns Acts of State, he is but  Herald; the Senate enacts, and the Duke publishes.  
It must then be confessed, that if in any case Gold and Purple are but glaring Pageants; and if the Grandeurs of the World are but Chimeras and stately Yokes; the Duke of Venice is an Eminent Instance of these Truths.  
I have, in obedience to your Desire, insisted the longer on this Particular: Do not think that I have revealed to you any Mystery, in the things which I have said of the Duke: Though they are not conformable to the Ideas you had conceived, nor, perhaps, to those of the greatest part of the World; they are all generally known here. 
See what Mr. Amelot hath written of it.  I will not meddle with the Article of Government, that would be too tedious and difficult a Subject for me to undertake; who neither have Time, nor Intelligence sufficient to be fully instructed in so many things.  
I will briefly answer your Questions concerning the Patriarch. He is elected by the Senate, and confirmed by the Pope; and his Quality gives him, as you may believe, a very eminent Rank; but his Authority is extremely bounded. The Curates are chosen by the People; 
The Curates are elected by the People of each Parish. The Day of Election, the Competitors present themselves, exalting their own Merits, and defaming their Antagonists. G. Burnet. If the Election be not made in Three Days, the State nominates.  the Patriarch can nominate only to Two or Three Benefices: And the Clergy in general, to speak properly, acknowledges no Superiority but that of the State. This Prelate is clothed in Violet Colour; he is always chosen out of the Nobility: I am assured that he only styles himself at the beginning of his Orders; N— divina miseratione Venetiarum Patriarcha. N— by the Mercy of God, Patriarch of Venice: And adds not, as others do, & sanctae sedis Apostolicae gratia; And by the Grace of the holy Apostolic See. The Venetians desire nothing more, than wholly to free themselves from the Authority of that which they call the Holy See. As to the rest, there needs no more Knowledge, nor Personal Merit, to be Patriarch, than to be Pope: these are things not required in this Case; it is Interest and Intrigue by which this Dignity is obtained, as it is the Habit which makes the Monk. It is also incredible how much Ignorance and Disorder reigns in this Country, among all those who call themselves Clergymen. The Cardinal Barberigo, Bishop of Milan, who is a venerable Old Man, and a wise Person, sometimes take the Pains, as they say at Milan, to preach himself against these Abuses. He introduces as much as he can, the Custom to make the Priests understand a little Latin. And his Zeal hath extended so far as to double the Grates of some Nunneries in his Diocese, in hopes they will follow his Example at Venice, where the Parlours, or Speaking-places are of too easy Communication: But all this produces but little; they do not willingly give Ear to such Spoilers of good Company.  
I must in the mean time tell you, that I remember a very pleasant Secret which was found out here, in behalf of some Priests that are Musicians. You know it is a Law without Exception, that a Priest must be a Complete Man; nevertheless, it hath been observed, that this Perfection of the Body is sometimes a cause of the Unpleasantness of the Voice; and, on the other side, the Sweetness of the Voice is of great use to insinuate things the better into the Minds of People, both in the Church, and at the Opera: They have found a Mean to accommodate the Affair, and have concluded that a Priest fitted for Music, may exercise the Priesthood as well as another; provided he hath his Necessities, or, if you will, his Superfluities in his Pocket. I will not be bound to produce the Act for this Regulation, which certainly was only given viuâ voce. But let that be as it will, I can positively assure you from my own certain Knowledge, that what I have told you is Truth.  
Father Mark Aviano, 
Mr. Scheibler a Lutheran Minister, in the County of Juliers, hath writ a Book concerning the Miracles of this Capuchin. And you may see some Stories of him in the Treatise of J. Zwingerus Prof. in Divin. at Basil, de festo Corporis Christi.  whom I mentioned in my Letter from Ausbourg, is at present here: I went twice or thrice to hear him preach, but could not get admittance. One must go three or four Hours before, if one intends to get a Place. The Devotion of the People is so great for this pretended Miracle-monger, that at first they tore his Cassock, and pulled off the Hairs of his Beard, and had certainly pulled him to Pieces, that they might get some Relics of him, if his Friends had not bethought themselves to make a Hole in the Church-Wall; by which he enters in a Chair through a Gallery, which leads directly thither from a neighbouring House, and so preserved him from these foolish Devotees.  
It is just I should add something of the famous Friar Paolo: All that I could learn concerning him among the Friars Servites, was, that they hold his Memory in great veneration. But to tell the Truth, those who spoke of him to me, knew but little of him, as I might judge by their Discourse; they telling me, that they knew not where his Body was, but God would discover it in due time. They have preserved the Dagger, which this great Man called the Roman Style, on so just and true an Occasion. This Dagger is to be seen at the Feet of the Crucifix which is upon the Altar of St. Magdalen.  
I should never make an end, should I undertake to speak of the Churches, the Cabinets of Curiosities, 
See divers other Remarks upon Venice, at the beginning of the Second Tome. Among the Cabinets, you may particularly see those of the Palace of Rosini; of the Procurator Justiniani; of the Family of Capello; of M. G. Barbaro; of Messeur Morosini Grimani, Justiniani Garzoni, and Zany; of the Baron de Tassis; of Dr. Bon; and of Francisco Rota. Spon.  and an hundred other things; but I shall content myself with what I have said at present. We are resolved to lie to morrow Night at Milan, where we have secured a Coach to carry us to Loretto. The Frost, which hath continued for two whole Months, hath so dried the Ways, that we hope to jog on easily. I expect at Rome to hear News from you: Pray let me not be disappointed of my Hope; believe that I am sincerely,  
SIR, Yours, etc. At Venice, Feb. 14. 1688.   

LETTER XVIII.  
SIR,  
THere is not any thing worth Observation between Milan and Rovigo, only that the Country is Plain and Fruitful, watered with many Rivers, and well cultivated. It is every where full of Meadows, Groves, Vineyards, and well-tilled Spots of Ground. The Venetians have there some Houses of Pleasure; but the common Habitations, when you draw near to Rovigo, are but Huts made of Reeds, which a Fire would reduce to Ashes in less than an Hour; yet are they as merry there as in a Palace. We saw often come out of these Cabins, whole Troops of Maskers, dancing Gambols to the Tunes of the Violin and Bagpipe. These Country Crews perhaps are to be preferred before the Rabble of Venice.  

ROVIGO.  Rovigo is a poor little City, begirt with a Wall just falling to ruin: Yet it is the Residence of the Bishop of Adria. That ancient and famous City, which gave name to the Gulf, being now but a pitiful half-drowned Village.  

FERRARA.  Ferrara is very great, and pretty handsome, tho' ill peopled. Some say it was called Ferrara, as if ferè aurens, half Golden, because of its rich Trade: But at present it is so poor and desolate, that it cannot be viewed without Compassion. 
In the Year 1570, in Forty Hours time Ferrara suffered One hundred and sixty ●olts of an Earthquake, and was almost all destroyed. Schrad.  In a place where Four great Streets meet, we made a short stop, without perceiving any one Person in any of them. It is generally acknowledged, that this City hath more Houses than Inhabitants. In the mean time, the Ferrarese is one of the best Parts of Lombardy; it is a plain and fat Country, which wants nothing but Tillage. You know this Desolation is an effect of the Severity of the Government. 
* 
Servierent tibi, Roma, prius Domini Dominorum.  
Servorum Servi tibi sunt, jam Roma Tyranni.   All that falls into the Hands of the Popes, presently becomes Miserable. Commonly these old Princes are constrained to do a great deal of Work in a little time, to enrich their Families; they care little what becomes of the Estate after their Death. When Ferrara was united to their Demesnes, under the Pontificat of Clement VIII. that Pope built a very strong 
Du Val writes, that this Citadel cost Two Millions of Crowns of Gold.  Citadel, which is still in good Order. As for the other Fortifications, they are wholly slighted. The ancient University of Ferrara is at present reduced to a paltry College of the Jesuits.  
Near the Cathedral, there are some Statues on Horseback, of Brass, of which one, they say, represents a Duke of Bozzolo. Over-against the Palace of the Nobility, you see also the Statue of Duke Hercules II. on Horseback; on the Pedestal of which, there is a Decree engraved, which grants a Refuge or Sanctuary to Criminals for Twenty Paces round about.  
They carried us to the Ducal Palace, to the Marquis de Villas House, to the Cathedral, and many other Churches and Convents. But tho' all these places have their own Beauties, I believe the Description of 'em would not be very pleasant to you; yet will I not forget to send you the Epitaph of poor Ariosto: They have lately repaired his Tomb in the Church of the Benedictines.  
Notus & Hesperiis jacet hic Ariostus & Indis,  
Cui musa aeternum nomen Hetrusca dedit.  
Seu Satyram in vitio exacuit, seu Comica lufit,  
Seu cecinit grandi bella Ducesque tubâ.  
Ter summus vates cui summi in vertice Pindi,  
Tergaminâ licuit cingere fronde comas.  
They carried us also to the Opera, where we saw nothing extraordinary. The principal Actress was a little pretty Songstress, of Twelve or Thirteen Years old; who that day was to make the first Essay on the Theatre; and according to common Report, was that Evening to enter into the Service of one of the principal Gentlemen of the City. All the chief Boxes were filled with Jesuits, and such like People.  

RAVENNA.  It is fifty Miles from Ferrara to Ravenna; the Way continues good for the first Day's Journey, but afterwards becomes low, and full of Water, between the several Branches of the Adige and the Po. The Towns and Villages which we saw on the Road, deserve not to be mentioned. Ravenna is but half as big as Ferrara, yet it appears at a great distance, being situated in a flat and open Champion Country. You are not ignorant that the ancient Geographers represent its Situation like to that of Venice, upon Piles in the midst of Waters. And all the World knows that it was formerly 
* Classem Myseni alterum Ravennae ad tutelam superi & inferi maris. Suet. in Octau. c. 49.  the Principal Haven which the Romans had on the Adriatic Gulf: But this Place hath suffered great Alterations since those times; for not only the Lagunes are dried up, but the Sea is also retired Three Miles from it; and these Plains, formerly drowned and barren, are at present the most fruitful Fields in Italy. It is not to be doubted but that the present Ravenna is in the place of the ancient Ravenna; as it appears evidently from several ancient Monuments. There are in the Walls towards the Seaside, many great Rings of Iron, which formerly served to fasten the Vessels: And you may yet see the remainders of the Beacon. This City hath been so often ruined by the Wars, that there are but few Marks left of its first Antiquity: It is at present poorly built, and very thinly peopled, as well as Ferrara; nevertheless I found it in many things worthy of Observation. It's Situation alone, in respect of the wonderful Change which hath happened in its Territory, I think deserves a Man's travelling this way.  
Without the Walls, near the ancient Haven, there is a Mausolaeum, which Amulasuntha erected for her Father Theodoric, King of the Ostrogoths; who, as you know, made his Residence at Ravenna. They have turned this Building into a little Church, which they call the Rotonda. The most remarkable thing about it is, the hewn Stone with which this Church is covered: I measured this Stone, and found it to be thirty eight Foot in Diameter, and fifteen in Thickness. The Tomb of Theodoric was on the top, in the midst of this little Dome, between the Statues of the Twelve Apostles, which were placed on the sides round about. These Statues were broken during the last Wars of Lovis XII. and the Tomb which is of Porphyry, was also overthrown: They have since set it in the Wall of an Ancient Palace in the City, where we saw it.  
The Cathedral is an old Church, the Body of which is supported by fifty six Pillars of Marble, of the Archipelago, which make a double Range on each side. The Choir is vaulted with fine Mosaic; and they keep there in great Veneration, one of the Stones with which St. Stephen was stoned. But the greatest Curiosity in this Church is the great Door: It is made of Planks of Vines, some whereof are twelve Foot high, and fourteen or fifteen Inches broad. The Ground hereabouts is so agreeable to the Vines, in that very place which the Sea formerly covered, that it makes them grow prodigiously big. I have read, as I remember, in the Voyage of Olearius, that he found near the Caspian Sea, the Bodies of Vines of the thickness of a Man.  
They show in the Church of the Theatines, a little Window over the great Altar, in the midst of which is the Figure of a White Pigeon, which is placed there for a Memorial; that after the death of St. Apollinarius, first Bishop of Ravenna, the Priests being assembled to choose his Successor, the Holy Ghost, as they say, came in at that Window in the Shape of a Dove, and perched upon him who was to be Elected: They add, that the same thing happened Eleven times after, successively; but since that time, they have done their Business without supernatural assistance. Platina after Eusebius, tells the like Story of the Election of Pope Fabian.  
There are very fine Pieces of Marble and Porphyry in the Churches of St. Vital, St. Apollinarius, St. Romualdus, and St. Andrew; all these were brought from Greece, and probably during the time of the exarchy.  
The Tomb of Galla Placidia 
* and Daughter to Theodosius the Great. There is another Tomb of this Princess in the Church of St. Aquilin at Milan. She it was who founded this Church. G. Tor. , Sister to the Emperor's Arcadius and Honorius, is in the Church of St. Celsus, between those of Valentinian and Honorius. They assured us, that this is a very fine Monument; but we could not see it, he who had the Key being absent. We saw the Tomb of the Poet 
† Dante Dalighieri, a Florentin, a Man of Quality and great Merit, died in Exile at Ravenna, in the Year 1321, and the 56 Year of his Age.  Dantes, in the Cloister of the Conventual Franciscans. I transcribed the Epitaph, principally for the Curiosity of the Rhimes, which is as follows: 
Jura Monarchiae, superos, Phlegetonta, lacusque  
Lustranda cecini, voluerunt fata quousque  
Sed quia pars cessit melioribus hospita castris,  
Factoremque suum petiit felicior astris:  
Hic claudor Dantes, patriis extorris ab oris,  
Quem genuit parvi Florentia mater amoris.   
Another: 
Exiguâ Tumuli Danthes hic sorte jacebas,  
Squallenti nulli cognite pene situ.  
At nunc marmoreo subnixus conderis arcu,  
Omnibus & cultu splendidiore nites.  
Nimirum Bembus musis incensus Hetruscis,  
Hoc tibi, quem imprimis hae coluere, dedit.   
There is in the grand Place a very fair Brazen Statue of Pope Alexander VII. And you may see at the other end of the same Place, Two Columns, upon which were the ancient Patron, and the Arms of Venice, whilst Ravenna belonged to that State; it being their Custom to erect the like Columns in all the Cities of their Demesnes: But the Pope hath put on the same Pillars, the Statues of St. Victor, and that of Apollinarius, which are the Patrons of Ravenna. They made us observe near this, under a Portico, the Gates of Brass, and some other Spoils which those of Ravenna took from Pavia; and which they preserve for a Memorial of the happy Success they had there.  
A good Hour from Ravenna we entered into a Forest of Pines, which is Four Miles long, and whose Pine-Apples, they told us, are distributed all over Italy. The Sea is not far off, on the Lefthand; and on the Right are those Marshes, which reach out of sight towards the Apennine. After we had passed the River Savio in a Ferry-Boat, we traversed the little City of Cervia, 
CERVIA.  which is in the midst of a miserable Boggy Country, where they make nothing but Salt. We stopped to Dine at Cesenate, 
Cesenate.  on the Seaside; and Three Miles from thence we found ourselves on the Banks of the Rubicon, which they also call 
* Others say this is the Frumicino, about Two hundred Paces from the Pisatello.  Pisatello. I confess I was not a little surprised when I saw our Coach pass that famous Brook without any stop; tho' I had learned also from Lucan, that it was no great River.  Fonte cadit modico, parvisque impellitur undis. 
An Hour after we took our way by the Seaside. The Sand is firm and even, without any Rocks or Shells: We pursued this Way till within a Mile of Rimini; where we were obliged to go within Land, that we might pass the River formerly called Ariminum, of the same Name with the City whose Walls it washes: But at present it bears the name of Marechia.  
Rimini is a little poor City; 
RIMINI.  yet the Country is rich, and well tilled. Sigismond Pandolphus Malatesta formerly fortified it; but its Wall is at present in great disorder. You know the Malatesti's were formerly Lords of many places in this Province. The Bridge of Marble, on which there are two very entire Inscriptions, by which it appears that it was built by Augustus and Tiberius, and the Triumphal-Arch erected by Augustus, are the two principal Monuments of this City. There are also to be seen the Ruives of an Amphitheatre, behind the Gardens of the Capuchins. And Five hundred Paces farther, without the City, there is a Tower of Brick, which was the Pharos of the ancient Haven; but the Sea is fallen back half a Mile from this Place, and the Pharos is at present encompassed with Gardens. P. Malatesta finished the Destruction of the Harbour, which was once accounted one of the best in Italy, to build the Church of St. Francis, with the Pieces of Marble which he took from thence. This Church, were it finished, might pass for a fine Structure. They keep there a Notre dame, which serves for nothing but to bring Rain, or stop it, when there is either too much or too little. She never is asked any thing but on one of these two Occasions.  
The Library of the Count de Gambalonga is very numerous, but there are no Rarities in it, if we may give credit to him who showed it to us. They made us observe in the midst of the Market, a kind of Marble Pedestal, on which these words are engraved: Caius Caesar Dict. Rubicone superato civili bell. Commilit. suos hic in foro Ar. adlocutus. The Statue of Paul V in Brass, is in another Place; and near to that a Fountain of Marble of excellent Workmanship.  
Departing from Rimini, we marched on the Downs for Fifteen Miles, between the Sea and the Fields. I observed as we passed through the Village Catholica, 
Catholica.  over the Portal of the great Church, an Inscription, which says, That a Council of Bishops, almost all Arrians, being assembled at Rimini, in the Year 359, the Orthodox performed their Devotions in this Village, which hath ever since born the Name of Catholica. You know the History of this Council, if it may be properly so called. We perceived Ten or Twelve Miles from thence, towards the Apennine, the City and Republic of Marin; on the top of a Mountain, at the Foot of which are the Limits of that State. This little Swarm of Bees hath maintained itself very happily for many Ages; not being exposed to the Envy or Jealousy of any of its Neighbours. It is about Six or Seven Miles from Catholica to Pesaro: All this Country is strewed with fine Houses, and is very pleasantly cultivated.  
Pesaro is greater, better built, 
PESARO.  neater and pleasanter than Rimini: Its Situation is upon a small Ascent, which gives it a purer Air, and better Light: Nothing can be more pleasant than the little Hills which surround it: It is a delicate Mixture of Pastures, Vineyards, and Orchards: The Olives are admirable; but the Figs in goodness and esteem surpass all other Fruits: The Figs of Pesaro are famous over all Italy. The best Meat costs not above three Bayoques the Pound, which is Eighteen Ounces; that is to say, somewhat less than two Farthings. The Bread and the Wine are proportionably cheaper; and so of the rest. The Sea and the Rivers furnish it also with all sorts of excellent Fish; so that in all respects this City is excellently provided with all things necessary for Life. It is tolerably well fortified, tho' something after the old fashion; and the Houses are generally handsome. We found no old Monuments in it. There is a very fair Fountain in the great Place; and a Statue of Pope Urban VIII. under whose Pontificat, this City, and all the Duchy of Urbino, were reunited to the Ecclesiastical State.  
At our departure from Pesaro, we coasted along the Shore for Seven Miles, as far as Fano: 
FANO.  It continues, still as I represented it on the other side of Rimini, excepting that the Sea brings thither great Heaps of Walnuts, Chestnuts, Rushes, Leaves, and divers other things which probably come from the Rivers, and are driven back from time to time by the Wind. One of our Company found on the Strand one of those little Fishes which they call in this Country Cavaletto; some call it in France, Cheval Marin, or the Sea-Horse; and others the Little Dragon. I have often seen it in the Cabinets of Curiosities; and I believe you also know it. It becomes dry in a little time, by which means it is easily preserved, without farther trouble. It is certain this little Creature hath something of the Head and Neck of a Horse. They attribute many Properties to it; and they assured us, amongst other things, that it cures Madness from biting by a Mad-Dog, being eaten roasted, and applied to the bitten place, skinned and beaten with Honey and Vinegar.  
Fano is a pretty little City: We found nothing remarkable in it but one Triumphal-Arch; the Inscriptions of which are almost quite defaced. This Arch hath Three Gates, whereas that of Rimini is only a single Arch. They boast of the Pig-nuts of Fano; and pretend that the Women there are the handsomest of all the Country; but I fancy this pretended difference may be a little suspected.  
A Mile from hence, we passed on a Wooden Bridge, about Five or Six hundred Paces long, over the several Branches of the Pongio, which drowns all this Extent, when the Snow on the Apennine gins to melt: And afterwards we took the Way on the Sea side, for Fifteen Miles, to Senegallia. Tho' this be an old City, 
SENEGALLIA.  yet could we find no Marks of its Antiquity; it is enclosed with good Walls, which are defended by some Bastions, but all very irregular.  
By good fortune, and rather because of our weariness than any thing else, we refused to go to see a Play, which was acted at the governor's House. The next Morning, which was the Day before Yesterday, they came to tell us, that a little before the end of the Play, the Arch which supported the Theatre, with part of the Stage, and the first Seats, fell under the weight with which it was overloaded: That thirty Persons were killed on the spot, and a great many others wounded; and all that little City was in a great disorder, and unspeakable affliction on this occasion: There scarcely being any considerable Family which had not its share of this misfortune.  
Departing from Senegallia, we entered again on the Shore, and traveled seventeen Miles, without finding any Houses but an old Castle, and some Taverns about an hundred paces from the Sea. Near the little Village called the Turret, we fell back into the Land-way for three Miles to Ancona, 
ANCONA.  where we now are. This City is seated on a double Hillock, at the point of the Promontory. It is bigger than any one of the four or five Towns last mentioned, but not much richer; though its Haven be very good, 
Traders of all Religions may dwell at Ancona, provided they make no public Exercise of any, besides the Religion of the Country. They whiten Wax very well at Ancona. Du Val.  and the Country about it very fruitful. It is a wonderful thing that the Trade is quite ruined, in a place which was formerly so famous for it.  
'Tis true, that after the like example of Antwerp, we ought not to be surprised at any accidents of this nature. The Streets of Ancona are narrow, and consequently dark: There are neither fair Houses, fine Churches, nor considerable Places in it; and its situation, up Hill and down Hill, renders it very inconvenient. The Citadel, which is on the first ascent you come to, commands both the City and the Haven. And on the other Hill which makes the point of the Cape, is the Church of St. Cyriack, to which we ascended with a great deal of trouble and little satisfaction. It is a low and dark Edifice, of which the Front is covered indeed with fine Marble, but without any order or ornament of Architecture. That which is principally esteemed in this Church by the People of the Country, are the Bodies of the pretended Saints, and the number of Relics. They boast they have St. Ursula, as well as those of Cologne. As for us, what pleased us best, was the prospect which we had of the Sea, of the City, and of a pleasant Country. At the entrance of the Mote there is a Triumphal-Arch of very fine white Marble. This Arch was erected for Trajan, by order of the Senate. The Inscription, which is still very entire, let us know, that it was in acknowledgement of this, that that Prince repaired the Harbour at his own charge. They told us, whilst we were considering this Monument, that, I know not what Monks had oftentimes earnestly requested, that they might employ the Materials for some use in their Convent: And that at last they were fain to drive them away with Threats, to be rid of their Importunity.  
The Exchange where the Merchants meet, resembles a Portico of a reasonable bigness. There were at the four Corners of the Arch, four Statues, which represented Faith, Hope, Charity, and Religion. But there happened an Earthquake some Years since, which shook all these Statues, and threw down that of Religion.  
I cannot forbear giving you some account of the Habits, which, thanks to the Holiday, we saw here to day. The principal Burgesses usually wear a black Cloak, lined with green; blue or fillamott Stockings, Shoes whited with Chalk, and tied with coloured Ribbon; the Doublets unbuttoned, adorned with Embroidery of several Colours, and great Sleeves to their Shirts, which hang down to their Finger's ends. The ordinary Citizens Wives and Daughters wear a kind of Coif on their Heads, with a long Fringe which covers their Faces, and drives away the Flies like Horse-trappings. The body of their Gown is red or yellow, fastened on four sides with Laces, and all overlaid with coloured Galoon: The Waistcoat short, their Petticoats of the same size, and all of fifty Colours: The great Madams are decked and trimmed up as much as they can after the French Mode: But to say truth, their Apishness is more ridiculous than the others natural Dressing. All this does neither good nor hurt; but there is another Custom which, as we were informed, runs from Ferrara almost all over Italy, and is very inconvenient, especially at this time of the Year. They know not what Glass is, and their Chamber-Windows are made of Linen or Paper, always torn; so that they are fain ro invent Machine's every Evening, to shelter themselves from the Wether. This made us sometimes bewail the loss of our Straw in Germany, where, if we wanted Beds, we had at least a good Stove, well heated and closed. To complete our Misfortunes, they commonly brought us a Fricacy of three Eggs, or as many Pilchards, for the Supper of five or six Persons. You must Fight for your Victuals, and yet pay as much as for the best Cheer. The set Price was at so much a Head, three Julio's for Dinner, and four for Supper, which comes to about 
* About fifty Sols, French Money. Polybius relates, that in his Time (about the Year 550.) they had a good Meal in Italy for a Denier. Hospites, viatoribus honestè acceptis, & omnibus ad victum necessariis abunde subministratis non amplius quam siliquem capiunt; haec oboli tertia pars est.  four Shillings a day.  
I am informed the Post is just going, which makes me finish my Letter, that I may not miss the opportunity of sending it to you. I will add only one word, touching the flux and reflux of the Sea. You must know, that it is more or less observable, according to the distance from the bottom, or extremity of the Gulf. At Venice the Tide rises four foot and an half, or thereabouts, near to Ravenna three, at Pesara two, and one almost at Ancona; so that at last it decreaseth to nothing.  
I hope we shall arrive at Loretto to morrow about Noon. You may assure yourself, I shall use all means necessary to give you an exact account of the Santa Casa.  
I am, SIR, Yours, etc. At Ancona, Feb. 24. 1688.   

LETTER XIX.  
SIR,  
I Believe there is not in Italy a better Country, and worse ways, than between Ancona and Loretto; we got thither yesterday like poor Pilgrims, weary and dirty, having been forced many times to alight to ease the Coach.  
All the World hath heard of our Lady of Loretto: But since discourses concerning her are various, and the matter of itself very curious; I intent to give you an abridgement of all that I saw or learned on this occasion.  
The House which they here call, Sacratissimo Sacello Gloriosa Cella. Domus aurea. Domus sapientiae. Vas insigne Devotionis. Sanctuarium Dei. Propitiatorium Altissimi. Civitas refugii. Puteus aquarum viventium. Terror Daemonum. Spes desperantium. Gloria Jerusalem. Tabernaculum foederis. Solium gloriae Dei. Sacrarium Divinitatis, etc. Sacrosanta Casa, is, say they, the same in which the Virgin Mary was born, where she was betrothed and married to Joseph, where the Angel saluted her, and where the Son of God was Incarnate. 
John Cartageno, in the Book, Entitled, Arcana di Maria.  E tanta è la dignità di questo luogho, cosi sublime lafoy Maestà, ch'a a tutti i sacri luoghi, che sono sotto il Cielo, e preferito, il sacello di Loretto. That is, And so great is the Dignity of this place, so sublime is its Majesty, that before all the Holy Places under Heaven, the Chapel of Loretto is to be preferred. This House being at Nazareth, was transported by the Angels, as they say, into Dalmatia, 
Terribile é questo luogho quali altro non e che casa di Dio & porta del Paradiso. Jacobin, l. 1. c. 1.  and there placed on a little Mountain called Tersatto, the 10th. of May, in the Year 1291. It had remained there but three Years and seven Months, when the Angels took it away again, and brought it to the middle of a Forest, in the Territory of Recanati, which is in the Marquisate of Ancona. The celestial Melody awakened the Inhabitants of the Neighbourhood, who run from every side, and saw the Miracle, by the favour of a great Light, with which the little House was surrounded. Nature herself leapt for Joy, and the very Oaks of the Forest, bowed themselves to pay Homage to it; they wanted only Tongues like those of Dedona. After this House had been there Eight Months entire, it was displeased with the Thieveries and Murders committed thereabouts continually; so that it was carried the third time a Mile further to the same Hill, on which it now stands: but it was no sooner come thither, than a Controversy arose between two Brothers to whom the Land belonged, each being willing to have it in his Lot. This was the cause, that four Months afterwards the Angels lifted it up the fourth time, and placed it some paces from thence, in the very midst of the Roadway; from whence it hath never stirred since. It is true, to prevent the inconveniencies to which this place, as well as the others, exposed it, and perhaps also to prevent the misfortune of a new change: They built in this very place a magnificent Church, in the midst whereof it remains free from all manner of Insults or Injury. And for its better preservation, they have since erected four Walls, which encompass it, and close it up as in a Box, without touching it at all, for fear, lest the two Walls being united, they should one day be confounded together. Some allege another reason of this Separation; and say, That the Stones recoiled with violence, and wounded the Workmen, when they would have joined it to this Holy Building; so that they were constrained to leave some space between them. All the beauties of Paintings, Sculpture, and Architecture, were displayed on that occasion; or at least all the most curious Workmen in the beginning of the last Age, were employed in this Work. It is of Corinthian Order, and of white Marble of Carrara, with extraordinary fine Basso relievoes, in which all the History of the Virgin is represented: There are also two Niches, the one above the other, between the double Columns. In the ten Niches below, are the Statues of the ten Prophets, and in the Niches above, the ten Sibyls.  
It is within this that the Santa Casa is enclosed, which consists of one only Chamber, or rather one single Hall. It is forty four Palms long within, eighteen broad, and thirteen high; a Palm and an half making just thirteen Inches, English measure.  
They would have those very People who live on the place, believe, that this House is built of some unknown Stones, to make its Voyages seem more probable; but this is an absurdity that can only be swallowed by such as are willing to be deceived. I examined the thing twice very nearly, and at leisure. 'Tis true, they have purposely made choice of Bricks of different shapes and unequal bigness, yet I perceived very distinctly, that these Walls are made of Brick, and true Brick; together with some flat and greyish or reddish Stones, which are all common. The whole is built with Lime and Sand, as our ordinary Houses, but the Pieces are ill joined, and ill ranged, which seems to evince, that this work was done in haste.  
I will here make a little digression, to acquaint you with a thought which comes in my Head concerning it. It was under the Popedom of Boniface VIII. that this pretended Miracle happened 
* 
It is he who, they say, raised himself to the Papal Dignity like a Fox, lived like a Lion, and died like a Dog.  
It was he who invented, and first wore the Triple Crown. Intravit ut vulpes, regnavit ut lo, mortuus ut canis.  . And if you make any reflection on the Life of that famous Fox, which all Histories represent to us as the most Cunning, the most Ambitious, and most Covetous of all the Men in the World, and add to these Considerations, that of his Power and Authority, you will grant, without difficulty, that he was a Man fit to undertake such a Cheat as this: After he had feigned Angels who frighted the good Man Celestin, his Predecessor, and obliged him to return to his Hermitage, after his Abdication of the Popedom: And it is not at all improbable, that he made use of the same Angels for the Expedition of Loretto. But let us return to the Santa Casa.  
The Lady of Loretto.  
Vol. 1. Pag▪ ●●●   depiction of the Lady of Loretto 
Tu Caput ante meum cinxisti, virgo, Coronâ,  
Nunc Caput ecce teget nostra Corona tuum.  
On each side of the Niche, there are Presses full of ancient Ornaments of the Statue; and in the other little Window, which is made in the Wall on the South side, they preserve some earthen Dishes, which served for the use of the Holy Family. There are many of these Vessels which have been since covered with Plates of Gold; but we could see but one of 'em, which is covered underneath with Silver. They would make us believe, that this Porringer, which might have been discovered by the bottom, is made of strange Earth, but it is Potter's-Ware, the Enamel of which is not so carefully pared off, but that it appears still in some parts. Over against our Lady, at the end which looks Westward, is the Window at which they say the Angel entered. This Window seemed to me about three foot in height, and a little less in breadth.  
They could not tell me what was become of the old Roof, nor the little Bell, which hath been observed in the ancient Pictures which represent this House: For the present Arch is of a later Fabric. As for Bells they have some, and their proper use should be to appease Storms immediately with their sound; but they never use them for fear of wearing them.  
I must not forget two considerable things, which, they say, were transported at the same time with the House: the Altar made by the hands of the Apostles themselves, and the Stone on which St. Peter celebrated his first Mass. This is covered with Silver, and hath place among the Relics, under the Altar where they usually officiate. The Pavement is of squares of white and red Marble. This is not the old Floor, for, they say, the Angels left that at Nazareth, with the Foundations of the House. To prove this History of the Translation, they insist on this Argument, that, as they affirm, it appears, that it really hath no Foundation, but was fixed on the Earth, just as it fell from Heaven.  

None are permitted to come in with offensive Arms, B. Bartoli. It is pemitted to lick the Walls, but they assure you, that terrible things happened to those who have been so bold, as to take away the least Particle.  You enter this sacred place at three doors, two of which are at the end, which looks to the East, and give passage to cross from North to South: And through this door the Pilgrims are let in. The other is also on the South side, but towards the East, and leads to the place called the Sanctuary; that is to say, the space made between the Altar and the end of our Lady's Chamber.  
I will not undertake to represent to you the Riches which are in this place: For that would be a thing too tedious and difficult. I will only tell you, that it is an amazing sight to behold the infinite number of precious Stones, with which the Mantle of the Statue is adorned; there is nothing all about but Lamps, Statues, Busts, and other Figures of Gold and Silver: without mentioning the Candlesticks of Silver and vermilion, which are eight and twenty in number, there are twelve of massy Gold, of seven and thirty pound weight each. The last rich Offering is always left for some time in a place framed on purpose, before the Eyes of our Lady: That which at present occupies that honourable place, is an Angel of Gold, holding a Heart bigger than an Egg, all covered over with Diamonds of great value. The English Jesuit who conducted us, told us, it was a Present from the Queen of England. This Reverend Father also told us a great piece of News, concerning which, you ought, in my Opinion, to have given us some account. He assured us, that Princess was big with Child, and added, that undoubtedly it was by Miracle; since they had calculated, that the very moment in which the Present entered, was the happy Minute in which she Conceived.  
See the Verses which he made upon this Subject, and of which he would needs give me a Copy. He introduces the Angel speaking to the Lady, and the Lady answering.  


(Ang.)  Salve, virgo potens: En supplex Angelus adsum,  
Reginae Anglorum munera, vota, fero.  
Perpetuos edit gemitus moestissima Princeps,  
Sis pia, & afflictae quam getit affer opem  
Casta maria petit sobolem; petit Anglia; summi  
Pontificis 
* To wit, in Great-Britain.  titubans Relligióque petit.  
Inculti miserere uteri: Sitientia tandem  
Viscera, foecundo fonte rigare velis.   


(Virg.)  Nuncie Caelestis, Reginae vota secundo:  
Accipiet socii pignora chara tori.  
Immo, Jacobus, dumb tales fundo loquelas  
Dat, petit amplexus; concipit illa. Vale.   


(Ang.)  Sed Natum, O REGINA, marem Regina peroptat,  
Nam spem jam Regni 
† The Princesses of Orange and Denmark.  filia bina foret.  
Dona, VIRGO, marem. (Virg.) I am condunt ilia natum.  
Fulcrum erit Imperii Relligionis honos.   


(Ang.)  Reginam exaudit REGINA MARIA mariam  
Alleluja! O foelix, ter, quater, Alleluja!   
Never were Verses repeated with a more luscious Tune, or pleasant Air. The Jesuits Companion thought them so well pronounced, that he humbly begged a Repition, though he knew them already by Heart: And this favour was presently granted him. My smiling Countenance seemed also to applaud them, but my silence did not please the Reverend Father. He suspected there was something which I disliked, and entreated me so earnestly to tell him my Thoughts, that I could not possibly refuse him. At first, I praised several Passages of them, as the foecundo fonte, fruitful Spring, which the Angel begged, and the Dat, petit amplexus, which appeared to me very significant. Yes, said he, the manner of expressing the thing, is not less sweet and fine, than emphatical and demonstrative; for it denotes a mutual fervency. I added, that since he permitted me to speak freely, I could not forbear telling him, that the beginning of the seventh Verse offended me as much as that of the twelfth seemed excellent; that the Uterus (Womb) of which he spoke, needed no culture, according to all outward Appearances; that such an Epithet was injurious to her Royal Spouse; and, in a word, that I could by no means endure the Word Inculti, Untilled, which besides did not well express his thought. At first he would have defended himself, but he submitted at last; and it was concluded, that instead of Inculti miserere uteri, it should henceforth be, O humilem spectes uterum, or something to that purpose. I would have passed over the Vale, but he confessed, of his own accord, that he put it there only to fill a Gap. He admired the Alleluja beyond measure, and imagined, he could never have made a more happy conclusion. It is true, said I, Alleluja is an angelical Word, it is an exclamation of Praise and Joy, which comes very seasonably where you have placed it: But you must remember, added I, that the three first Syllables of Alleluja are long, whereas you have made it a Dactyle, and this Hebrew Word is written in Greek, 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉: He excused himself for the Antepenultima, by citing 
* Amen reddidit; Alleluïa dixit, which is a Phaeleucian Verse.  Prudentius, who had made it short, notwithstanding the Greek η, which signified little, the Word being Hebrew, and confessed the Penultima was naturally long. But he concluded, that the beauty of a thought might excuse the neglect of such niceties of quantity; and he resolved at any rate to keep his Alleluja. We had already altered our Discourse, when the young Brother desired permission to criticise on the Natum of the fifteenth Verse. He said, the Son was not yet born, and therefore ought not be called Natum: And that he could not think it possible, the Name Natus or Filius should be given to an Embryo of half a Minute, or at least to the informed matter of a Foetus. But the Father-Poet laughed at him for this, and told him, that the Word of the most Holy Lady was a sure Word; that Born or to be Born, signified the same thing on this occasion; that it was properly a Question of the Gender, and that we may speak of things that will infallibly happen, as of those that are already in Being. The Friar had yet another Objection to make against Natum marem, but he only muttered a little, saying, there never was Natus foemina, for he was afraid of giving Offence: And thus ended our Conference.  
There are a great number of Candlesticks, with Branches and other Luminaries, all round the House without, that is, round the Walls which enclose it. But one of the greatest Rarities we observed, was the Processions of those who surround this House on their Knees, some compass it five times, others seven, and some twelve, according to the Mystery they search for in the number. Represent to yourself forty or fifty Persons, Men, Women, and little Children, all creeping on their Knees, as they turn from one side, and a like number meeting them, as they go to the other; every one is furnished with Beads, and mumbles Pater-nosters: in the mean time they all strive to creep next the Wall, both to shorten their way, and to be nearest to the Holy Place; which makes them jostle each other, and causes no small confusion. This is never done, but when there is but a little Company there. The great resort of Pilgrims is at Easter, and about the Festival of the Virgin's Nativity, which they solemnize in the Month of September; at which times they are obliged to take other Measures. I cannot, without reluctancy, mention a thing, which may seem incredible, yet is affirmed by them for a certain Truth; which is, That in the Years of the greatest Concourse, they have several times counted two hundred thousand Pilgrims and upwards, during these two Feasts.  
One can scarcely imagine a pleasanter sight, than the Caravans of He and She Pilgrims, when these Caravans come together, as bodies of Confraternities: Many Societies of Bologna, for Example, join together to go on Pilgrimage in Company. Each Society have their 
* Saccola.  Frocks of ordinary Linen-Cloth, with a Cowl of the same Linen, made like a Strainer for Hippocras, which quite covers their Heads, and leaves only three Holes for their Eyes and Mouth. There are Fraternities of all Colours: They forget not their Beads, Girdles, Pilgrims Staves, and the Arms of the Society, which are painted, or embroidered, before and behind, on the Back and Breast of every Brother. These Pilgrims thus equipped, ride upon Asses, which are reputed to have some smack of Sanctity, by often going on Pilgrimage. They seldom fall; and if they happen to do so, they say 'tis without danger to the Pilgrim. So much for the Men. The women's Habits are as rich as possibly they can procure: And they fix to the Body of their Gowns, a little Pilgrim's Staff, of the length of a Hand 
† Some are of Gold, Silver, Ebony, Ivory, Artificial Flowers, and many are enriched with Pearls, and Precious Stones, etc.  A Staff, which gives occasion for many pleasant Thoughts, and serves for Diversion to all the Company on the Way. These Societies of Ladies ride in Calashes, surrounded with whole Squadrons of Ass-Troopers. Is it not pretty to see these Morris-dancers thus mounted and dressed, make an hundred Rounds, and Antic Postures, accompanied with foolish Songs to divert the Lady Pilgrims? Let not this Liberty of the Women surprise you. The Pretence of Devotion to our most holy Lady, is a Reason sufficient to release them from their usual Prisons: And besides, I doubt not but every one hath a Brother, or some other Spy near her.  
I might tell you a great many things of the Church, but I fear you are cloyed with such Stories: Only you must know, that all that is rich in the House is but of small value, in comparison of what we saw in the Treasury-Chamber. This Chamber is a spacious place: Ten great Presses, with folding-Doors, serve as Wainscot to the Walls; the vaulted Roof is of a fine sort of Plaster, with gilded Compartments, adorned with fine Pictures. The Silverwork is not thought worthy of admittance into the Presses; it was allowed at the first, but at present it is confusedly heaped up in private places, till they have occasion to use it. These Presses are therefore filled only with pure Gold, remarkable Jewels, or Vessels and Ornaments more precious than Gold 
* Among these Jewels, they set the highest esteem on a Pearl wrought after the fashion of a Gondola; which they say was naturally marked with the Figure of our Lady. B. Bartoli. : I will not attempt a Relation of the Particulars, for they exceed Imagination itself. To comprehend how these vast Riches were thus accumulated, you need only remember, that all the People, Princes and States, who acknowledge the Supremacy of the Pope, have continually for these four hundred Years brought them thither, and vied to outdo each other: You must also consider, that this Treasure is but a small part of the Presents they have received. They have built a Church, and a most magnificent Palace. They have settled Revenues, and purchased Lands beyond all view; and it is not to be doubted but they have Chests full of Money. This is not all; the Boxes furnish them with prodigious Sums, and one of the Secrets they make use of, to stir up the devoties to fill them, I think very well deserves a Relation. They distribute a Printed Paper, by which they endeavour to persuade the People, that the Holy House hath no more than twenty seven thousand Crowns in Revenue; 
The Crown is worth near Five Shillings Six Pence English Money.  and by another Computation which they annex to the former, they show, that they are obliged to disburse thirty eight thousand six hundred and thirty four Crowns, to pay the Officers Salaries, and other Annual Expenses. See then above eleven thousand Crowns, which according to this pretended Account, they fall short every Year. This is a ready way to take Opportunity to make pathetic Representations of their Poverty, and to move the Compassion of devout Pilgrims, in favour of our good Lady, who, say they, loves nothing more than the Virtue of Liberality.  
As we left the Treasury, they carried us to the Arsenal, which is not considerable: There they shown us some Arms taken from the Turks, and relate, that these Barbarians having made a Descent to plunder the Treasury, 
Mahomet II. and after him Selim his Nephew.  about fifty Years ago, our Lady struck them all blind just at the very Entrance; at which time they seized on part of their Arms. From the Windows of this Arsenal, you behold the part of the Sea, over which, as they say, the House was brought: They add, that ever since, there is a certain White Way on the Water; and our Jesuit made use of the highest Asseverations, to protest to us, that he had often seen it. Yesterday when we came hither, the Rabble flocked about us, and told us, That we must make haste to confess and communicate; without which, those who should dare to enter into the Holy House, would be shaken even to the Marrow in their Bones, and be in danger of sudden death. There must be as well Impudence on one side, on such Occasions, as there is a great deal of Prejudice and Stupidity on the other.  
After we had seen some Apartments of the Palace, they led us into the Cellar, where we found one hundred and forty great Tuns, full of good Wine. From thence we went to the place where the Drugs were kept; where they showed us three hundred and forty five Vessels of Earthenware, which they said were painted by Raphael, and are infinitely esteemed. On five of the largest, are St. Paul, and the four Evangelists; and on the others, the History of the Saints, the Metamorphoses of Ovid, and Plays of Children.  
Loretto is a very little Place, though it be well fortified, and hath the Title of a City and Bishopric. There is in the great Place, an admirably Beautiful Fountain of Marble, enriched with Statues of Brass. There is also one to be seen of Sixtus V in the same Place: The Inhabitants of Loretto erected it for him, in acknowledgement of the Privileges they received from him. The principal Trade of this little City, consists in Medals, Rosaries, sanctified Beads, Images, Agnas Dei's, Measures of the Height of our Lady, and such like Wares.  

Chaplets of Beads were invented by Urban II.  We saw Chaplets whose Beads were like Goose-Eggs; these are for the great Days of Devotion. You must know, moreover, that there is no Person there, who affirms not himself to be descended from the Race of one who saw the arrival of the Holy House. All of them have heard their Grandfathers relate, that their Ancestors heard it from their Great-Great-Grandfathers; as those who live now fail not to tell it to their Children, and their children's Children. After this Traditition, can you still be incredulous?  
I am, SIR, Yours, etc. At Loretto, Feb. 26. 1688.   

LETTER XX.  
SIR,  
AS we passed through Recanati, 
RECANATI.  which is a little City on the top of a Hill, three Miles from Loretto, I alighted for a while to see the great Church: I discovered nothing there worthy of Observation, but the Tomb of poor Gregory XII. Pope of Rome; who, as you know, was deposed from the Pontificate by the Council of Pisa; together with Peter de Luna, who assumed the Name of Benedict XIII. and was Pope of Avignon.  
Ten Miles from thence, in a most fruitful Country, on the Bank of the Potenza, we passed through the Ruins of the City formerly called Helvia Ricina, 
HELVIA RICINA.  where there are yet to be seen great Fragments of an Amphitheatre, which was built of Stone and Brick mingled together, like that of Rimini. On this side the River, we were enclosed among Hills for two Miles, after which we arrived at Macerata, 
MACERATA  where we lay. They told us this City was indifferently large, and very pleasant; but it was late, and besides foul Wether, so that we walked not abroad. Between Macerata and Tolentino, there is a fat, and well cultivated Plain, though the Country be slenderly inhabited: They plant great Reeds, to prop up the Vines, 
The Buffalo's were brought to Italy, An. 595. Ciacon.  and make use of Buffalo's to draw their Ploughs: These Animals are far stronger than Oxen, and eat much less.  

TOLENTINO.  Tolentino is seated on a Rising Ground; I could not learn there was any thing remarkable there, but some Relics, which are things that we take little notice of. From thence we came to the Town of Belfort, which I may tell you, by the buy, is the first place built with Stone which we had seen in Italy. A good Mile on this side, we came into the Province of Umbria, where we began to enter into the Confines of the Apennine.  
A Gentleman of the Neighbourhood, who was going to Foligno, our way, accosted us near to Macerata. I was glad of his Company, hoping to get information of several things relating to the Country; we presently discoursed of our famous Lady, of whom he related a hundred Stories. The Discourse being turned to Religion, he told me, amongst other things, that there was great rejoicing in Italy, that our King was become a Christian: when I desired him to explain his meaning; I found he had so many strange Notions, as I thought it impossible for any Person to conceive. The Extravagancies he accused us of, were no less than those which the Pagans laid to the charge of the Primitive Christians. He would sometimes look upon me with some satisfaction, when I said any thing which pleased him: but he still suspected that I dissembled; and all my Rhetoric could not persuade him we were christened.  
You must know that this is the general Opinion of this Country. They know no more of our Religion than they who live among the Tobinambouz. But those Gentlemen of the Frock, who are best acquainted with News, think it meritorious to scandalise us, and render us odious, by the Follies and Impieties they impute to us.  
Between Tolentino and Foligno, for near forty Miles, we were almost always amongst the Rocks, which made the ways often difficult. The principal Villages which we saw in our Passage, are Valcimara, Ponte di trava, Mutia, Dignano, Colfiorito, and Casa Nuova. At our leaving the Mountains, near to a little Village called Pala, we discovered from a height, the Plain of Foligno, which from thence makes one of the finest Prospects in the World. 
Hic ver Assiduum. Virg.  This great Bottom is encompassed with rich Hillocks, watered with many Rivers, strewed with many pleasant Houses, and extraordinarily improved. We had scarcely escaped from the Snows, the Rocks, and the cold and piercing Winds, but on a sudden we found ourselves fanned by the Air of a sweet Climate. The Almond-Trees were already blossomed, which in a moment succeeded to the Frosts of the Mountains: This, added to the Beauty of a fair and calm Day, gave us the delicious Prospect of a fine Summer. We could not give over contemplating this delicate Garden, whose extraordinary Charms deserved the highest Praises.  
After we had insensibly jogged on three or four Miles in a continual descent, we came into a straight and level Way, on the side whereof runs a small River exceedingly clear; 
FOLIGNO.  and we arrived at Foligno, which is but a Mile farther, at the end of this way. Though this City be seated in a Terrestrial Paradise, it has nothing else considerable: Yet they say, that Trade flows thither more abundantly than to most of the other Cities of the Ecclesiastical State which we have seen. Their Trade consists in Draperies, Gold and Silver Lace, some Silks, and Spicery. The Goths plundered it several times; and there are no old Monuments remaining.  
A little while after we left Foligno, we saw on the other side of the Plain, upon an Eminence, the Town of Montefalco, where the miraculous S. Clara lies interred. They show there, as they told us, three Stones about the bigness of small Nuts, which were found in the 
* They show all the Instruments of the Passion, which are found there with the Stones.  Heart of that Saint, and upon which the History of the Passion is engraved. But that which is most admirable, is, that all the three Stones together, weigh no more than one of 'em singly; and consequently one weighs as much as all the three:  
Not far from thence is the City of Assisa, where they keep the Bones of that Saint, who preached to the Swallows, and made himself a Wife and whole Family of Snow; and whose Legend is stored with Fables. You know the Man. 
‖ They pretend that his Body, and that of St. Dominick, are side by side standing on their Feet. At Porciuncula, five Miles from hence, they boast to have the first of these Saints, (St. Francis); and at the great Convent of Bologna they affirm also they have the Body of St. Dominick.  His Relics are under the great Altar of the Cathedral; but no living Soul is permitted to see them. It is said, that a certain Bishop of the Isle of Corsica, who believed himself to have a greater Privilege than others, about sixty Years ago, obstinately resolved to see them, and that by Divine Permission, he was presently struck with sudden Death. It is true, so much intercession was made to this Saint, that a little after the Prelate came to life again.  
Near the Village of Pesignano, between Foligno and Spoletto, and at the Foot of the Hill which surrounds the Plain, a plentiful Spring runs out of four Outlets under a Rock, and instantly makes a little Lake. There the four Rivulets being united, make from thence a pleasant River, which afterwards forms an infinity of Meanders; which, without doubt, contribute very much to the fruitfulness as well as Ornament of the Country it waters. About two hundred Paces from this Spring, there is on the wayside, a very little Temple of Corinthian Order. One who seemed to have some skill in Antiquity, told me at Spoletto, that this little River is the Clitumnus, spoken of by some ancient Authors, and among others, by Virgil in the Second Book of his Georgics: and the Reasons alleged for this Opinion seem very probable. But that which the vulgar Opinion adds, that the little Temple, consecrated to Clitumnus, was made a Deity, is a Story without any appearance of Truth. For besides that this Temple is built , and Eastward, as the most part of the Christian Churches are; and that there are Crosses carved in divers places of the Impediments, which agrees not with the fashions of Paganism: The three following Inscriptions are engraved on the Frises of the Front, and on both sides. (1) ✚ S C S Deus Profetarum qui fecit Redimptionem. (2) Deus Angelorum qui fecit Resurrectionem. (3) ✚ S C S Deus Aposto ****, the rest is broken off. The Characters are not in the least Gothick, nor any other part of the Architecture. Perhaps this Temple was built out of the Ruins of that of Clitumnus. It is now called S. Salvatore; and the Bishop of Spoletto says Mass there once a year.  
From Pesignano to Spoletto, 
SPOLETTO.  which is but seven Miles, you coast the plain Country at the foot of the Hills; there are in all these Parts a considerable number of Villages and Houses, scattered here and there. Spoletto lies within the Mountain, over the rich Plain which I described before. It is a poor City, thinly peopled, ill built, and in a very uneven Situation. They carried us to the Cathedral, after they had boasted much of the height of the Body of the Church; but after all, we found nothing extraordinary in its height. The Pavement is made of little Pieces of Marble, inlaid, like the Church of St. Mark at Venice; and all the Pediment of the great Portal, is fine Mosaic, on a Golden Ground. From thence we went to the Castle, which is in the highest place of the City. It is only strong by its Situation; but we found nothing in it to recompense the trouble we had in going up to it. They shown us from this height, about five hundred Paces from the City, a Church which had been consecrated to Concord, and is now called The Chapel of the Crucifix. There are at Spoletto some other old Fragments, a Triumphal-Arch half ruined, some Remainders of an Amphitheatre, and divers lose Marble Stones, but without any Inscriptions, except the Arch, on which we may yet distinguish some Characters. The Aqueduct which joins the Mountain of St. Francis to that of Spoletto, is the more considerable, in that it is entire, and hath always been in use since it was first made: But this is a Gothick Work; it is three hundred and fifty Paces in length, and two hundred and thirty Foot high, measuring from the top of it to the bottom of the Valley.  
Three Miles on this side Spoletto, we passed the Somma, which is the highest Mountain on this Road. And after we had been for five or six Miles amongst the dry and desert Rocks; those Rocks were on a sudden changed into Embellishments. During the space of four Miles, we found Nature had employed all its endeavours to cover these Mountains entirely with Laurels, wild Olive-Trees, Tamarinds, Junipers, Ever-green Oaks, and a wonderful variety of other Trees or Shrubs, which preserve their Verdure all the Winter. If you pass that way in January, or July, you find it still almost the same. 'Tis true, that as the Plain of Foligno looks cheerful and pleasant, this seems to have a sad and melancholy Beauty. At our approach to Terni, those Mountains which had always confined us in a straight Passage, on the Brink of the Torrent, which runs at the bottom of the Valley, left us by degrees, and we found ourselves in a great Forest of Olive-Trees. These Trees were loaden with Fruits, it being the Custom to let them ripen till they fall off themselves, or with the least shaking. The green Olives which they preserve in Pickle, are gathered before they are ripe, and they take away their bitterness by Art. Those which are ripe have no less bitterness than the green ones. And it is very strange that the bitterest of Fruits should produce the sweetest Liquor. As we left this Wood of Olives, we traveled about a Mile in a Plain, whose agreeable Air, and Fruitfulness, was little inferior to that of Foligno; and then came to Terni, which is on the River Nera, in the midst of this excellent Country.  
Terni is less than Spoletto, 
TERNI.  but appeared to us somewhat better peopled. It's whole Trade consists in Oil. They told us, that during six Months of the Year, 
Pliny praises the Cabbages and Turnips of Interamnia. (It has been called Interamnia, Interamnia, and Interamnium.)  they make there an hundred Charges of Oil every Day. The Charge weighs six hundred Pounds, and is worth near twelve English Crowns. This City is very 
* Interamnia anno ante Christum 671 condita, vivente Numâ Pompilio.  ancient. It appears by an Inscription which we observed in the Porch of the Seminary, near the Cathedral, that its Foundation is not of much later date than that of Rome. This Inscription was made for Tiberius, and the date is, Post Interramnam conditam DC C FOUR Terni was called Interamna, or Interamnium, by reason of its situation inter amnes, between the two Arms of the River which Waters it. There is also another Inscription which was put on the Bridge in the time of Urban VIII. in which, it is said, that this Bridge was built by Pompey the Great.  
We went- to see the famous Water-fall of Mount del Marmore, which is three Miles from Terni. The Way is rough and pleasant both together. You must ascend very difficult Rocks, and sometimes light from your Horse for fear of Precipices: But, in recompense, we had the pleasure in these Mountains to meet with some Nooks to the Southward, which never felt the Winter. We found amongst the Bushes, Jasmins, Laurels, Myrtles, Rosemary, and Nature smiling in February, (though it had been a very hard Winter) as much as you find it in April in your Island. At the third part of the Way, ascending the Hill Papinio, I observed below on the River side, a great space of Ground, planted with Orange-Trees. I counted at least seven hundred; and this was the first time we saw them in them in the plain Field without any Shelter. But let us proceed to the Water-fall.  
The River called Velerio, hath its source in the Mountains, twelve or thirteen Miles from the place where it falls down. It passes into the Lake of 
* Or pied Luco. The Trout of this Lake have no Back-Bones. Du Val. Peter Tolentin a Sieneze, having rid into the River on Horseback above the Fall, was hurried away by the Current, and took leap with his Horse; but having time to call on our Lady of Loretto, he escaped, being only sound we●. Balt. Bartoli descript. of Loretto.  Luco, at the distance of nine Miles from its Head, and goes out bigger by half than it entered into it. When it comes to the place of its Fall, the Valley which it quits, proves to be on a high Mountain, considering the depth which attends it; there than this River which already marched with a swift Current, all in an instant throws itself down from a craggy Rock, three hundred Paces high, and falls into the hollow of another Rock, against which its Waters break themselves with such Violence, that it rises like a Cloud of Dust, double the height of the Fall, which makes a perpetual Rain in all the adjacent parts. This pulverised Water forms in the Sun an infinite number of Rain-bows, which are always diminishing and increasing; which cross themselves, and flutter about, according to the various rebounding and spurting up of the Surges, and as this Watery Smoke is thicker or thinner. I can assure you, the sight of this Object fills the Spectator with an Astonishment that I cannot express. The River seems to hasten its Course, before its Precipitation, because of the sloping of its Channel: These Surges press on as if they strove for precedency. 
Du Val hath written, that there is a certain Land near the Nera, which in dry Wether turns to Dirt; and when it Rains, moulders into Dust.  Whilst they are still in the Air, they foam, dash against, encounter and shock each other, and seem to be entangled together: At last they fall into an Abyss, which they themselves have made; from which they break forth impetuously, some through the Crevices of one Rock, others through the Jaws of another; after which they run on, grumbling and murmuring, a little farther; and at last mingle themselves with the Waters of the little River Nera, which they enlarge by at least three quarters. And so ends the poor Velino.  

NARNI.  From Terni to Narni, is a plain Way, and a good Country; it is but seven Miles. This last City promises something at a distance, because of the pleasant little Hills which we see about it, when we come from the side of Terni: But when we entered it, we were surprised to find it in a manner desolate: Its Streets are dirty and narrow, and the situation so rough and uneven, that one cannot go scarce three Steps without mounting or descending. According to the sordid custom of the Country, you can see nothing in the Windows but torn pieces of Paper, which is a sign of beggary, and makes the Houses appear as if they were uninhabited. I observed, as we passed, two pretty handsome Fountains of Brass. The Emperor Nerva was a Native of Narni.  
We turned aside, a little before we went into the City, to see the Ruins of a Bridge, which, as they say, was built under the Empire of Augustus, and which they look upon as a thing worthy of Admiration. The great pieces of Marble with which it is built, are joined dry without any Cement, and without Hold-fasts of Iron. It's height is extraordinary; it joins the Mountain of Spoletto to a neighbouring Mountain, and ends in the Way that leads to Perusa. Of four or five Arches, there remains but one entire; the top of the Mould of the greatest is broken. Many Persons, who I believe are well informed, have told me, that this Arch is one hundred and seventy foot in breadth; and one may by the Eye guess it near so much; which far exceeds the famous Bridge of the Rialto.  
Departing from Narni, we found ourselves again between the Mountains, which continue for eight Miles, to the Town of Otricoli: Near that on a Plain, 
OTRICOLI.  are the Ruins of the ancient Ocriculum. We went a little aside to take a nearer view of these dismal Remains, but we could find nothing which might afford us any Instruction. A while after we passed the Tiber, over a fair Stone Bridge, which was begun under Sixtus V and finished under Urban VIII. as appears by an Inscription engraven on it.  
It was late before we arrived at Citta-Castellana; 
CITTA-CASTELLANA.  and our intention being to part thence early the next Morning, we willingly gave credit to the Report of those, who told us we should find nothing remarkable in it.  
Near to Regnano, we found the old Via Flaminia, with its Pavement of nine hundred Years continuance, which remains entire in this place to Admiration; we not having perceived any Footsteps of it since we left Rimini, to which this Way extended itself. I shall give you a more particular Account of it on some other Occasion.  
We dined at castle Nuovo, which is but a Paltry Town, as well as Regnano. Almost all the rest of the Country hitherto, is untilled, and without Inhabitants: The Soil is bad and the Land generally flat, but uneven. We saw every where an infinite Number of ancient Ruins. After we had repassed the Tiber upon the Bridge, which by Tacitus, and other ancient Authors, is called Pons Milvius, and at present by corruption, Ponte-Molle; we met with a paved Way for two Miles, which lead us between Gardens and Houses of Pleasure, to the famous City of Rome.  
I am, SIR, Yours, etc. At Rome, Mar. 4. 1688.   

LETTER XXI.  
SIR,  
IT is so pleasant to travel in good Company, that for this reason we readily engaged in a Journey to Naples, somewhat sooner than we had designed. There are many surprising Rarities in this excellent Country, which may be observed by those who have the Patience to wait till the Spring is a little advanced. Besides, in this Season the Fields begin to put on a more smiling Countenance; and all the Journey is extremely pleasant. 'Tis true, it hath been so hard a Winter, that we could not expect a forward Spring; and we now find, that tho' we had taken their Counsel, who advised us to put off our Journey till April, we could not have expected any considerable Advantage by so long a delay, by reason of the continuance of the Cold. And besides, this would have spoiled all our Measures at Rome, where we intent to remain without interruption, since we design not to make any long stay there.  
They commonly account it five Days Journey from Rome to Naples: The Road is bad, and we met with but few things worthy of Observation in it: But we find what may make us amends at Naples, at the Mountain of Vesuvius, and amongst the Rareties of Bayae, Puzzolo, and other neighbouring places.  
Wherefore after we had rambled about Rome for two or three Days, and run over the principal things which our Curiosity thirsted after, we left it in order to our Journey for Naples. Twelve Miles from Rome, we came to Marino, a great Town belonging to the Prince Colonna, formerly known by the Name of the Villa Mariana. Here we left the level Country, 
Marino, or Villa Marii.  and departing from Marino, ascended a stony Mountain, where are nothing to be found but Wood and Buffalo's. I shall say nothing at present of the Lake of Castle-Gandolfo, which we coasted for near an Hour, it being our intention to visit it at our return, when we shall have more leisure for Observation.  
As we descended the Mountain four or five Miles on this side the Lake, we discovered the Sea, and saw on a little Hillock on the Right-hand, the City called Citta de la Vigna, which is the ancient Lanuvium; a Municipal City, and the place where Antoninus Pius was born; and not the Lavinium of Aeneas, as the vulgar Opinion is. Lavina Litora are ten or twelve Miles from thence, towards that part where Prattica is now seated.  

VELITRI.  In the Evening we reached Velitri, a little City enclosed with a Wall, and seated on a little well-cultivated Hill. It was formerly an important place, and troublesome to the Romans, but at present it is inconsiderable.  
'Tis the general Opinion here, and even the Servants at the Inn informed us at our Arrival, that the City of Velitri was honoured with the birth of Augustus. Some one of our Company asked who that Augustus was, and were answered, that he was the first Christian Emperor. I expected to have heard him call him St. Augustus; for I observe here, that the People easily canonize all the Illustrious Men of old, Pagans as well as others. Finally, Augustus was born at 
* Narus est Augustus M. Tullio Cicerone & Antonio Coss. regione Palatii ad capita bubula.  Rome, as Suetonius positively affirms. It is true that his 
* Gentem Octaviam Velitris praecipuam olim fuisse multa declarant.  Family was originally of Velitri, and that he was put to nurse in the neighbourhood of that City. The same Author relates, that in his time, they spoke of the Chamber where that Prince was nursed, as they are wont to do at present of the Holy House of Loretto: Huc introire nisi necessariò & casté religio est. Temere adeuntibus, metus & horror objiciebatur.  
In the midst of the great Place of Velitri, there is a very fine Statue of Brass of Pope Urban VIII. I observed that the Statues of the Popes always represent them sitting. This is done, without doubt, to denote the Empire which they have over all other Princes in the World. They carried us to the Marquis Ginetti's House; the situation of which is very agreeable, and the Apartments adorned with a great number of Antiquities.  
Coming down the Hill of Velitri, we observed a great number of Caves, and Cellars dug, under the Rocks, to preserve the Wines cool. After which we entered into a Country poorly inhabited, and all open, for about fifteen Miles, unto the very foot of the Mountain, on the top whereof we saw the little City of 
‖ Built upon the Ruins of the old; Sora. Sermoneta, quasi Sorella della Citta di Sora, saith Th. Valla.  Sermonetta.  
About four Miles on this side, they made us observe, on the Lefthand about fifty Paces from the Highway, some old Ruins, which, as they say, are the Remains of the place called by St. Paul, the three Shops, in the twenty eighth Chapter of the Acts. This place is commonly called, the three Taverns; the reason whereof is, without doubt, because the Words 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 in Greek, 
The Word 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 is a Latin Word adopted by the Greeks.  and tabernae in Latin, have more relation to the Word Taberna, than to that of Bottega. It is something after this manner that they derive S. Longinus from 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉, and St. Tiphines' from 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉,  
On the Right-hand we saw the Promontory, at present called 
* Mons Circaeus, antiquis famosissimus, in quo Circes habitasse fertur, & herbis efficacissimis ibi natis homines in bestias commutasse. Ant. Magin.  Monte Circello, which by the Report of some Naturalists, was formerly an Island. It was there, say the Poets, that the jealous Circe changed poor Scylla the Mistress of Glaucus into a Sea-Monster, and the Companions of Ulysses into Hogs.  
Credibile est Circen mutâsse potentibus herbis,  
In Monachósque sues, inque sues Monachos.  

SETIA.  The little City of Setia is on a Mountain a little on this side the Three Taverns. It was formerly famous for its Wines. Setinum ardebat in auro, saith Juvenal. But at this Day the Mountain is become of another Nature; it produces scarce any thing at all. I observed amongst the Woods with which these Mountains at present are covered, many of the Plants called Ficus Indica. Some of them grow up to the height of thirty or forty Foot, with Trunks as thick as a Man. The Laurels and the Myrtles are common in the Hedges; and here we begin to find Orange-Trees frequently in the open Fields. Near to Setia, at the Village Casa-Nuova, is a great Marish, on which you may take Boat, and go straight to Terracina. But we turned to the Left, into a Valley which led us to the Mountain, and City of Piperno, where we lay. 
PIPERNO.  I observed in our Way, a pretty large Churchyard, all planted with Orange-Trees, which is doubly contrary to the usual Custom. For first, there are no Churchyards in Italy; every Family hath its Chapel or Vault in some Church or Convent; and if there be any public place where they bury those who are very poor, which I have not yet seen; It is only some Corner of Land, in a private place without the City. And besides, it is the Custom where there are any Churchyards, to plant Pines, Yew-Trees, or Cypresses; but no Orange-Trees.  
Piperno is a new City, built near the old Privernum, the Metropolis of the Volsci, and Residence of their King Metabus, Father to the famous Camilla, (Virg. lib. 11.) Some say that Privernum was called Piperno, because (when they built it out of the Ruins of the other) they found in the place where Piperno now stands, a Tree which bore Pepper: From whence it comes, say they, that this City hath a Tree in the Scutcheon of their Arms, with the Head of Camilla born by a Lyon. Others are not of this Opinion: They believe that Piperno is so called by corruption for Priverno, or Privernum; and that the Tree now discoursed of, is no Pepper-Tree, but a Laurel: from whence they draw great Consequences of the Bravery of the old Privernates.  
The Bishopric of Piperno was reunited to that of Terracina (by Honorius III) because of its Poverty; ob indecentem paupertatem, saith Favonius Leo. The Bishop's Chair is still kept in the Choir of the old Cathedral.  
They have in the Church of St. Benedict, a famous Image of our Lady by St. Luke, which would not be burned at the Saccage of Privernum, and which is the grand Object of the Devotion of Piperno; together with St. Sebastian, St. Thomas Aquinas, and the Illustrious Camilla.  
Lilies and Daffodils grow naturally, as they say, on the Hillock of Piperno, called Colle Rosso. There is a certain fine Earth found there, named Buccaro, excellent for making Potter's Ware. From the top of this Hill, you discover the little City of Mayença; near which is a Lake, the Waters of which, by the Report of P. Paolo Benvenuti, rise considerably on a sudden two Days before Rain.  
Leaving Piperno, we passed over some sandy Hillocks, full of those various sorts of Shrubs which are Green in all Seasons. In the Wood which we go into afterwards, are a great Number of Cork-Trees. This Tree extremely resembles an Ever-green Oak; and I believe we may very well call it a kind of Oak, since it bears Acorns. When you strip other Trees of their Bark, you at the same time take away their Sap and Life, whereas far otherwise, when you take away the Bark from this Tree, it grows stronger, and presently produces a new Coat, as Sheep after shearing bear a new Fleece.  
Departing from the Wood of Piperno, we went out of the Way two or three hundred Paces, 
FOSSA NUOVA. This Abbey is on the Ruins of the Forum Appii, of which Benvenuti assure us, some Footsteps remain.  to see the Abbey of Fossa Nuova. The Monks who led us into the Church, told us, That Thomas Aquinas going from Fondi to the Council of Lions, and finding himself ill, alighted from his Mule, stuck his Stick in the Ground, and fastened his Mule to it, and afterwards fell asleep in a Corner of the Wood, near the Church. It is said, that the Mule getting lose, run furiously into the Church, those who were there not being able to hinder it: They add, that the Beast was so insolent, as to set his Feet in the Choir; but immediately he sunk into the Pavement, 
* Others say, that the Mule wandered some days in the Wood, and that running to the Tomb of his Master, he died there for Grief.  and was presently punished with sudden death. They show the pretended print of his Feet, and have put little Iron Grates over them, to preserve them. Moreover, as they searched for the Master of the Mule to punish his negligence in not tying him better, they were surprised to see that it was 
‖ Villani, and others, write, that he was poisoned by order of Charles I. King of Naples.  St. Thomas, who was ready to expire, for want of his Mule to carry him to seek for Relief. They brought him to the Convent, where he died some Days after, and his Body was laid for some time in this Church; from whence it was afterwards removed to Fondi, and from Fondi to Tholouse.  
About ten Miles on this side Fossa Nuova, we found the old Way called Via Appia, 

Appius Claudius' Censor, Aquam Claudiam induxit. & viam Appiam stravit. Entrop.  
Appia Longarum teritur Regina viarum. Statius.   which was made by Appius Claudius, when he was Censor. The Alterations which time makes on the Surface of the Earth, is the Cause that the Ways are many times changed also, as 'tis plain from daily Experience; but nothing more evidently demonstrates this truth than this part of the Via Appia which we met with. You see it come out of a deep Marish; and at present wholly inaccessible, whereas formerly it was the direct Road from Capua to Rome. You are obliged to make a great turning, when you leave this Way to go into that of Piperno. I observed the same thing between Citta-Castellana and Rome, on occasion of the Via Flaminia, of which we find great pieces preserved on this side Regnano; and in some places, and particularly towards castle Nuovo, fifteen Miles from Rome, this ancient Pavement may be observed, which sometimes mounts on Ascents now inaccessible, and in other places loses itself in deep Valleys, which cannot be descended into, and afterwards appears again some Miles farther. 'Tis certain, that by Winds, Rains, great Floods, Earthquakes, and other Accidents, Plains are raised up, and Hills fall down; Valleys are filled up; the Earth gains upon the Sea, and the Sea on the Earth; the Sea makes the Earth Lakes, and the Earth turns the Sea to Islands; Rivers are dried up, and change their Course; Mountains swell, and become level; and the Figure of the Globe is in perpetual variation. I could produce Examples of all this. It is true, these Changes are not universal. The length of the Pavement, for Example, which continues for two Miles or thereabouts, to Terracina, is exactly level with the circumjacent Lands.  
Of all the Antique Monuments I have seen hitherto, there is nothing in my mind deserves so much to be admired, as these famous Roads. The Buildings which are preserved, have been exposed to few Accidents; and all things being well considered, it is rather matter of Astonishment, that Edifices so exceedingly solid, were so soon ruined, than to see them still remaining. But that an innumerable Number of Passengers, Horses, and Chariots, should incessantly tread on a Pavement for so many Ages, and yet so considerable Fragments of it should still be found entire, is a thing which seems incredible. The 
* Procopius saith they were all Square, but he was mistaken.  Stones of this Pavement are of unequal bigness; their Colour Greyish and Reddish, almost like rusty Iron, extremely hard, and ten or twelve Inches thick. To speak generally, the greatest, in their largest Dimensions are little more than two Feet, and the least not less than one. Though the shape of these Stones be irregular, they are all so exactly joined, and closely united, that it is impossible to thrust a Sword's Point between them, in those places which have still kept their old situation. I have measured the breadth of these two Ways, Via Appia, and Via Flaminia, and I found them throughout twenty Roman Palms broad, with very little difference; which makes fourteen Foot, less by four Inches, English Measure: This is not too much for the meeting of two Chariots. These Ways which they call Viae Consulares, had on each side Borders of the same Stone with the Pavement; and these Borders stood up two Foot, or thereabouts: I have seen them in some places very well preserved. These were called the 
* Cippi. 'Tis true, they were sometime called Marginationes. But Lipsius pretends that these Marginationes, were Pavements on the sides, which were made bigger than the other. I remarked that in this sense the Cippus and Marginatio are sometimes of the same piece.  Margins, or Marginationes Viarum; it is between these Borders the Ways are to be measured at a certainty. The Chariot Wheels have in some places made deep Ruts, at the most three or four Inches; and the manner after which the Canal of this Rutilio is followed from one Pavement to another, is one of the Proofs of its ancient situation. The rest of the Pavement is even and whole, without any appearance that the Horseshoes have worn it in the least. They told me, that there is another very thick Lay of Stone, placed on a Bed of Sand, which serves for the Foundation of this Pavement, and hinders it from sinking. When we approached to Terracina, we saw on both sides, the Ruins of many ancient Monuments, which, according to Custom, were erected near these great Roads, both for Ornament, and to give Travellers some Idea of the Roman Magnificence. After all if on the one side these Ways were beautiful and advantageous; on the other so hard and slippery a Pavement, was not without its inconveniencies: and we took care to avoid it, at the same time we admired it.  
The ancient Anxur, 
Scopulosi verticis Anxur. Sil. Ital.  which was afterwards called Trachina, because it is upon a Rock of difficult access, is at present by corruption called Terracina. It is little, 
TERRACINA.  poor, and ill peopled; and all the Country about almost uninhabited. A little on this side Terracina, they were forced to cut the Rocks, to continue the Pavement of Appius, between the Sea and the Mountains; this is in many places to be seen within the space of one Mile. The Rock is called Pisca Marina: 
Terracina was besieged by the Turks. The Inhabitants made a Vow to give twenty thousand Eels yearly to St. Bennet, if by his intercession they should be freed from this danger. The Turks raised the Siege a few days after. Their Vow was accomplished, and the Eels are carried every Year to the Benedictines. Theod. Valla, and Ostiensis  It is near twenty six Foot high; and the ancient Ciphers are marked from ten to ten, in a Capital Roman Character, on the Face of this Rock, which is cut perpendicular; so that the cipher on the top is CXX. But an Antiquary no less exact than curious and learned, told me at Rome, that ●he had measured these Distances, and that he found them almost all unequal. Some conjecture, that the principal end of the Undertaker, was to measure his Work, and that he marked the Divisions only slightly, it being no advantage to him. Others believe that every Distance is the Work of ten Days; and that the inequality of the distances was caused by the more or less ease the Workmen found in cutting the Rock. And that which gave occasion for this Thought is, that the distances above are greater than those below, the Rock still growing narrower towards the top. But I find one main Objection against this Sentiment; for probably they began to work at the top of the Rock; so that the first Tenth should have been marked above, and the Number CXX. found below; all this seems to me not easy to be understood.  
After we had traversed Hills covered with Cork-Trees, having on the Right-hand the Marish and the Sea, and always following the old Pavement, we came in the Evening to Fondi. And an old Wall which is three Miles on this side Terracina, makes the Separation between the Ecclesiastical State, and the Kingdom of Naples.  

FONDI.  Fondi is in a flat Country, near a Lake which bears the Name of the City, and which takes great Circuits in a Moorish Bottom, between the Hills and the Sea. They say this Lake produceth Eels of an extraordinary bigness. 
* Others say Chairadin, Caratin, and Cheireddin.  Hariaden Barbarossa, King of Algiers, and Admiral to the Grand Signior, finished the desolation of this poor little City of Fondi, in the Year 1534. They have painted the History of its Destruction, in the Church of the Annonciata. Barbarossa had a particular design on 
‖ Julia de Gonzaga, Wife to Vespasian Colonna. Barbarossa would have made a present of her to the Grand Signior. She was very beautiful. He destroyed the City out of spite, because he miss his aim. Schrad.  a Princess of the House of Gonzaga, who was then at Fondi: But that Princess, being advertised by a Gentleman of the City, of the Design the Pirate intended to execute, got immediately out of her Bed, and saved herself, naked to her Smock, by that Gentleman's assistance. The History adds, that not enduring to remember without indignation, that a Man had seen her in that Posture, she caused him to be stabbed some time after.  
Fondi is all paved with Stones of the Via Appia, but we do not find that they are joined so well as heretofore. Near the Castle, there is a great Garden, which, according to Tradition, belonged to Cicero. I believe there are no other Proofs of it. The Dominicans have a great veneration for the Chamber of Thomas Aquinas, and for the Auditory where he taught. They also keep with extraordinary care, an old Orange-Tree, which, they say, this Doctor planted. He died anno 1273, or according to the old Legend, 1274; by which you may judge of the Age of this Tree. There is a Story of a certain Tree of Cochin-China, which lived two thousand Years; and we have a Relation of China, which tells us of a Tree so old and so big, that twenty Men could scarcely embrace it: But Orange-Trees are not of so long continuance. It is an incredible thing, for every body assures me here, that never any of these Trees attained to the Age of four hundred Years. It was necessary the Dominicans should have some miraculous memorial of the Angelical St. Thomas, as well as of their great Patriarch St. Dominick, of whom they have another Orange-Tree, at St. Sabina, on Mount Aventin: But what may not a Man believe on this Subject, after what Surius relates of the old Olive-Trees of Nazareth, and of the accursed Figtree, which was to be seen within these two and thirty Years? That this Trunk hath lasted so long, after the Curse it received, is a thing not easy to be understood, without taking notice of the nature of the Tree, which allows it not so long a Life.  
They would persuade us at Terracina, that we should find the Leaves of the Orange-Tree of St. Thomas, of another shape than those of other Orange-Trees; as they talk of the Almond-Tree of St. Francis, which is yet to be seen on Mount Luco, and of which the Leaves grow, as they say, with Crosses well shaped. But we could not perceive this pretended difference; nor could we find that the Winter had been more favourable to the Oranges of this venerable Tree; for they were all frozen, as well as those of the Garden of Cicero, who, I may tell you by the buy, passes at Fondi for a kind of Saint, as well as Augustus at Velitri: When this Tree shall die, if at least it ever must, they propose to themselves to make a Shrine of it, to contain some Relics of the Saint who planted it. This is no ill Thought. It is thus that they keep somewhere in a Village of Tirol, one of the biggest Nails of St. Christopher, in a Case which is made of the Palmtree which grew from his Pole, after he had planted it in the Earth, when he carried over the Child Jesus from one side of the River to the other. Leaving Fondi, we were oftentimes forced to pursue our Way on the old Pavement, for ten Miles, to Mola. One is almost always amongst the Mountains; and this unevenness of the Soil joined to the hardness and smoothness of the Stones, renders the Way very troublesome. The Horses shiver as they go, as if they were upon Ice; and must be every Foot new shod. At our approach to Itru, which is a little City on a Rock, six Miles from Fondi, I observed in divers places of these Mountains, large Trees, called in this Country Soucellés, which bear Cod of half a Foot long, or thereabouts, and thick as Bean-Cods. These Fruits are dried, and taste of Honey, somewhat like Manna; I learned here that their true name is Carobba.  

MOLA.  We arrived about ten a Clock in the Morning, at the little City of Mola, on the Seashore. There are to be seen store of Marble-Stones, and other Ruins of 
* Hormiae antedictum, Plin.  Formiae, that famous City which was built in this very place by Antiphinanes, King of the Lestrygons. It was a sad thing, that one of the most 
‖ O temperatae dulce Formiae Littus, etc. Martial.  delightful places of the World should be inhabited by Man-Eaters. The Air there is extremely sweet, the Fruits are admirable upon all the sides of the Hills watered by the Gulf, between Cajeta and Mola; there are most excellent Wines; 
Sugarcanes are also planted here. Schrad.  all things are plentiful, and the Sea very full of Fish. We took a Walk amongst the Ruins of an old Palace, which, they said, belonged to Cicero. It was the Sea partly which destroyed it. We found on the Shore many little pieces of Mosaic, which sufficiently demonstrate it had been formerly a remarkable House. It goes for truth, that they have taken away some Inscriptions that made it appear to be Cicero's. I could not without Grief remember the sad destiny of that Great Man, who being drawn from this House where he believed he might have been sheltered, during the last fury of Anthony against him, was at last 
* by the Centurion Popilius Lenas', whose Life Cicero had saved by his care and eloquent Orations. Cicero died sixty four Years old. The Murderer, (saith Calvis.) received of Anthony the Sum of 44000 Crowns of Gold, for his Reward. Appian Alexandr. makes the Reward far greater.  murdered in his Litter, endeavouring to find some other Refuge. I'm persuaded that the sight of a Place where a Disaster happened, does very much heighten our Sorrow for it.  
After we had considered a little whether we should go to Cajeta, which is on the Point of the Promontory, over-against and in sight of Mola, the Sea being a little too brisk for the little Barks which waited for us: We at last concluded on the Passage. But to tell the truth, the Voyage was made with a great deal of dancing, though some of the Company had little mind to the Sport. The Rain that over-took us, and a great deal of bad Wether, obliged us to stay but a little time at Cajeta; besides, we were to travel that Day, and to lodge about fifteen Miles from Mola. The Passage over the Gulf is about four Miles.  
Cajeta appeared to us of a reasonable largeness, and very well 
‖ 
Tu quoque littoribus nostris, Aeneia nutrix,  
Aeternam moriens famam Cajeta dedisti. Aeneid. 7.   fortified: 
CAJETA.  Its Haven is good, and the Situation of the City on a high Rock, renders the Approach difficult. There is to be seen the Tomb of 
* 
His Epitaph is thus related by Arnold Ferron:  
Aucto Imperio, superatâ Italiâ, devicto Gallo, pontifice obsesso, Româ captâ: Borbonii hoc marmor cineres continet.  
Another: 
Francia mi dio la leech,  
Espanna suerte y ventura,  
Roma mi dio la muerte,  
Y Gaeta la sepultura.    Charles of Bourbon, Constable of France, who was killed at the sacking of Rome, and the ancient Mausolaeum of Munatius Plancus, by whose advice, (as Suetonius reports) Octavius Caesar preferred the Name of Augustus to that of Romulus; which some would have given him, as to the Restorer of the City of Rome. This Mausolaeum is commonly called The Tower of Orlando.  
Our Guide carried us in the first place, to a cloven Mountain, which hath no other Name than that of La Spaccata. That great Rock is separated both above and below, from the Top, to the Sea. The distance of this Separation is four or five Foot at the Entrance, but enlargeth itself a little towards the Height. It is manifest from the meeting of the Concavities and Convexities on each side of the Rock, that it was really divided. They say this was one of the Prodigies which happened when our Saviour gave up the Ghost. And they show against one side of the opening of the Mountain, the print of a Hand on the Rock which softened under it: They affirm it softened on the Challenge which an Unbeliever made; and they have graved this Distich below it: 
Improba mens, verum renuit quod fama fatetur  
Credere; at hoc digitis saxa liquata probant.  They have made steps to go down into this double Rock, 
All the Barks, Galleys, and other Vessels, which pass that way, never fail paying their respects to the Holy Mountain. It is a famo us Pilgrimage.  and have contrived a small Chapel, which is dedicated to the Trinity. The Curate of the Chapel took the pains to find out a Hammer to break off some pieces of the Rock, to bestow on us as Relics; but we told him we were already troubled with too much Baggage; and the poor Man was highly offended at our refusal.  
Returning from thence, we visited the Cathedral, where they showed us, amongst other things, a pretended Pillar of the Temple of Solomon. There are four of the like at the great Altar of the Chapel of St. Mark at Venice. 
* P. Rosetto writes, that this Vessel was found at Mola. It is supported by four Lions, made of the same pieces of Marble.  The ancient Vessel of White Marble, which serves for a Font, in the Baptistery of this Church, is a curious Piece of Work, and most entirely preserved: It is made in the form of a Bell, and is four Foot high, or thereabouts. The Basso relievoes, with which it is adorned, are admired by skilful Men. The little Bacchus fresh come out of the Thigh of Jupiter, is by Mercury put into the Hands of Ino; and all round the Vessel are represented Satyrs and Bacchanals. There is a Faun which plays on two Pipes at once. I have seen a Shepherd of Tirol do the same. 
They have observed the same thing of Herodotus of Megara.  The Workman hath put his Name on the Vessel, 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉.  
Near the Garden of the Franciscans Zoccolanti, there is a Bush of Thorns, which are most without Pricks, which, they say, hath grown so ever since the Seraphic St. Francis rolled himself there, to extinguish his Concupiscence. Towards the Place named Della Foglia, they also show us the place whence he 
* Uscissero el capo dell' acqua, saith Rosetto, and they heard him.  preached to the Fishes.  
Going up by the little Door of the Bishop's Palace, over-against the Altar of the Holy Sacrament, there is a Marble Statue of an old Man, who sets his Feet on a little Dog; under the Dog is a Death's Head; a Serpent, whose Tail is placed on the Dog, wraps itself about the Legs of the old Man, rests on his Head, and hath an Eagle on his. There are an hundred different Opinions concerning this Piece. That which is most generally received is, That the old Man represents Aesculapius, with his Serpent: That the Dog signifies the Vigilance and Attention required in Physicians; and that the Eagle represents the Empire of GOD over Men, perhaps the God of Physic particularly.: And the Death's Head is an Emblem of Humane Nature, sadly subjected to that Deity. The Sculpture is four Palms in height.  
When we landed at Cajeta, the Officers of the Garrison made strict inquisition whether there were any Frenchmen amongst us; and after they had assured themselves that we were all English, they told us, that since the quarrel of France with the Pope, they were always apprehensive of those Men-devouring French. This puts me in mind of what happened two Years since, at our coming to Mons, another Spanish City. There was a Report that an Army of French was coming, under pretence of guarding the Post of Namur, to make an irruption into the King of Spain's Territories: Upon this, the People of Mons opened their Sluices, drowned all the Meadows, and spoiled all the Ways: The French knew nothing of all this; the poor Travellers were the only sufferers: We were fain to undergo a Thousand Fatigues, to get out of their drowned Ways.  
Departing from Mola, we coasted the Sea for some Hours, always following the Appian Way, for eight Miles together, to the Ruins of the City of Minturna. 
MINTURNA.  We saw in our Passage the Remains of an Amphitheatre, 
Marius' pursued by Sylla, hid himself among the Reeds, in the Marish which is between the Sea and Minturna. A Soldier who was sent to kill him, not daring to undertake it, Marius put himself into a Bark, which cast him on afric, where he stayed till he was recalled.  and a considerable length of an Aqueduct, which came from the little City of Tajetto, two Miles farther, on the Lefthand. The River which was formerly known by the Name of Liris, and which at present is called Garigliano, washes the Walls of Minturna. We passed this River in a Ferry-Boat, and took a new way over the Meadows, leaving and quitting altogether the old and troublesome Pavement, which loseth it-self in those places, which are no more frequented. We came the same Day to the Village of St. Agatha, and there we lay.  

CAPUA.  From St. Agatha to Capua is sixteen Miles. The Country is level enough, particularly when we come near to Capua, and the Fields are fair and fruitful. Leaving St. Agatha, they showed us some Hills a few Miles to the Left, where grew, as they say, the famous Falernian Wines. The Volturnus, which is the principal River of the Kingdom of Naples, though of but indifferent bigness, washes the Ramparts of Capua, on that side we entered into it. This City is small and inconsiderable in all respects. There you may see several Inscriptions, 
Ipsa caput urbium, quondam inter tres maximas, Romam, Carthaginemque numerata. L. Florus. Omnium felicissima Civitas. Polyb.  and many Marble Stones, which were brought thither from the ancient Capua, and we turned aside to visit some Ruins of that. It is two Miles from the other near the Mountains to the Eastward. And the Town which is called St. Mary's, is almost wholly built of the deformed Ruins of that delicious and proud City. We saw there many little Temples, an old Castle, the Remains of two Amphitheatres, one of the Gates of the City, with a great number of broken Pillars, and other Fragments of Architecture.  
Urbs Capys hoc campo? ambitiosa hic aemula Romae,  
Parvula quam magni corporis ossa jacent!  
The Country People brought us many Medals, which we took without looking on them, because we were in haste, and they asked but little for them: But we found afterward nothing rare amongst them. They dig them often up here, and in divers other places which they shown us, as well as towards Mola. But being informed of the search that is made for such things, they are not so simple to give all to the first Comer, at the same price; they know the curious Persons of the neighbouring Cities, from whom they receive Rewards, when they bring them Pieces, which are not common: So that these Peasants bring nothing to Travellers but what is ordinary, or the Refuse of others.  
From Capua to Naples is sixteen Miles; and this Campaign, as you know, makes a part of the Provence called Terra di Lavoro. It is really an admirable Soil. Dives arat Capua— said Virgil. They pretend it is the most fruitful Soil in the World; and they also called it Campagna Stellata, to signify, that it is highly favoured with the benign influences of the Stars, and let you know that the Air which they breathe hath a constant sweetness. We passed through the little City of Aversa, 
AVERSA.  which was, as they tell you, 
* Of the Ruins of Atella.  built by the Normans, when they drove out the Saracens and the Greeks, and seized on the Kingdom of Naples.  

NAPLES, called the Gentile.  I will not spend much time in giving you the Etymology of Naples. It was destroyed, saith the History, and afterwards rebuilt by the Cumani, who called it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉, to distinguish it from the Remains of the high City; which they named, or became so at the same time, 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉; you know both of them formerly bore the Name of Parthenope, because, some say, that Ulysses and his Companions, having escaped the enchanting Songs of the Mermaid Parthenope, that Sea-Nymph in despair, threw herself down headlong, 
The Council of Lateran, under Innocent III. in the Year 1215, took away the Greek Bishop, who was Colleague to the Latin Bishop.  and was interred at Palaeopolis. Others pretend that one Parthenope, Daughter of Eumelus King of Thessaly, and Granddaughter of Admetus and Alcesta, brought a Colony thither from her Father's Estates, and gave her own Name of Parthenope to this City, which had then another Appellation, now unknown. Let it be as it will, it appears by these Greek Names, that Naples was built by the Grecians. It is very large, and well peopled, but I cannot tell you exactly the Number of its Inhabitants, nor any thing satisfactory of its Circuit, the Figure of it being most irregular. The Curious, who have walked round the Walls, reckon that it is nine Miles in compass, and that it is eighteen if you include its seven Suburbs. Although it hath endured terrible Assaults, 
One of their Poets pleasantly said, That Naples seems to have fallen from Heaven.  it is still one of the most noble, and perhaps finest Cities in the World. It is paved throughout with great square Stones, cut to a Pattern. The Streets are straight, and most of them broad. The Houses are high, with flat Roofs, and uniform Building. London, Paris, Rome, Venice, and a great number of other Cities, have, in truth, fine Nobleman's Houses; but these Houses are mixed with great a number of ordinary ones, whereas Naples is generally all very fair. The Sea makes a little Bay, which washes it to the South. To the North it hath rich Hills, whereby you rise insensibly into Campagna Felice. Eastward is a Plain which leads to Vesuvius; and in the West is the high Town, where are the Chartreux, and the Castle of St. Erasmus. The Prospect which we have of this Ascent is very charming: I will give you an Account of it in the sequel.  
Besides, that the Houses of Naples are commonly great, and well built, there is a considerable number which deserve the Name of Palaces. For Example: Those of the Dukes of Matalone, Gravina, Airola, and de la Tour; of the Princes of St. Agatha, Mont-milet, Botera, and Cellamara. The Palace of the Viceroy is in a great Place; the Front is regular, and adorned with three Orders of Architecture. It is near four hundred Feet in length, of English Measure, and is the Work of the famous Montana. The three Castles which defend Naples; the Academy, which they call Studii Nuovi; the Academy for riding the Great Horse; the Convents; the Hospitals; the Arsenal, and the Magazines for the Galleys, are so many Edifices of very great Note. There are many Fountains, which contribute as well to the great Conveniency, as Embellishment of the City: And three of these Fountains are of an incomparable grandeur and beauty. But that which seemed to us most extraordinary at Naples was the Number and Magnificence of the Churches. It may be justly said, that in this respect it surpasses Imagination. If one would take a view of the fine Pieces of Architecture, the Churches must be visited, you must behold the Frontispiece, the Portals, the Chapels, the Altars, and the Tombs. If you would look upon rare Pictures, Sculptures, and the rarety of Vessels of Gold and Silver, you need but go to the Churches; the Arches, the Wainscots', the Walls are all covered with pieces of precious Marble, most artificially laid together, or with Compartments of Basso Relievo, or of Joyners-work gilded, and enriched with the Works of the most famous Painters. There is nothing to be seen but Jasper, Porphyry, Mosaic of all fashions, and the Quintessence of Art. I visited five and twenty, or thirty of these stately Edifices, where one still finds himself surprised afresh. If it were possible to unite eight or ten together, and make a regular Composition out of 'em all, I believe it would be the most magnificent Structure in the World.  
I dare not venture on an exact Description of so many Particulars, yet cannot forbear to mention at least some of these Churches, which we found most remarkable, since perhaps it may be of use to you hereafter. The Church of the Jesuits is an admirable Piece: The Dome was painted by the Chevalier Lanfranc; and which way soever you turn in this stately Temple, all parts are enriched with most costly Ornaments, from the Pavement to the Roof. It is the same in St. Mary's of the Annonciata, which we may justly say, is of most splendid beauty. 
The Religious may purchase from right to left, all the neighbouring Houses, till they come to be bounded by some Street; so that there being no Street without a Convent, they may purchase the whole City. G. Burnet.  There you may see also that famous Hospital, whose Revenue amounts to above two hundred thousand Ducats of Gold. All is very rich and surprising; St. Philip of Neri, Santa Maria la Nuovo, St. Severin's, St. Paul's, St. Dominicks, the Church and Monastery of Mount Olivet; at the Church of the Holy Apostles, St. John Carbonare, the Cathedral, the little Hospital, and St. Mary's of Health. I omit above three hundred others to avoid a tedious prolixity: Nor will I take notice of their Treasures and Vestries, which are replenished with prodigious Riches. Two of the Theatines having led us into their Church of the Holy Apostles, those good Fathers declared to us by the manner of their Discourse, the poor condition of their Order, who have, say they, more reason than any others to complain: For if the Mendicants, for Example, have no proper Goods, yet, at least, they have liberty to beg: Whereas, the poor and unhappy Theatines live only on God's Providence, possessing nothing, and not daring to ask any thing. Arguing after this manner, after they had made us observe the various Magnificencies of their Church, they brought us into the Vestry; where we found fourteen great Cupboards, with double Doors, all filled with Vessels of Gold and Silver, and other precious Ornaments: A Treasure of poor People, sufficient to satisfy the most inordinate Ambition.  
The great Convent of the Chartreux at St. Martin's, is extraordinary full of rare and magnificent things: The Monks who conducted us thither, affirmed to us, that under one Priorate, there were laid out amongst them five hundred thousand Ducats in Silver Plate, Pictures, and Sculptures only. Their Church is none of the greatest; but every part of it deserves Admiration: Nothing can be added either to the value of the Matter, or excellence of the Workmanship; all is complete, and tightly beautiful. The Nativity of Christ, by Guido, is an excellent Piece: The four Pictures of the last Supper, which are to be seen in the same place, were done by Espagnolet, Ann. Carache, Paul Veronese, and Cavalier Massimno.—— has thought fit to represent Jesus Christ standing, giving the Sacrament to his Apostles, and putting the Bread into their Mouths, they being on their Knees. There are a great many other Pieces highly valued, too many to be here recited.  
The Cloister is one hundred Paces square: All the Pavement is of Marble, inlaid, representing Boughs, and other Ornaments of the like nature; and the four Galleries are supported by sixty Pillars each, of one entire piece, of fine White Marble of Carrara. The Monks are pleasantly lodged; every one hath his Chamber, his Closet, his Library, and his little Garden. The Prior's Apartment might well befit a Prince: There, amongst other things, you may see the famous Crucifix of Michael Angelo, drawn, as is said, from Nature to the Life, by a certain Peasant, whom that Painter crucified for that purpose: This smells like a Fable; but here it goes current for a great Truth. This Picture is of Wood, and is not above half a Foot high. I observed that the Crucifix holds his Head exactly straight, which agrees not very well with the Posture of a Man expiring on a Cross. They have also a Saint Laurence by Titian, and some Designs of Ruben's and Albert Durer, which they prise very highly.  
The various Prospects which are discovered from this Ascent, strike the Beholder with Admiration. You behold the Sea, and many Islands, amongst which is that of Capri, the famous Seraglio of Tiberius. From thence you may distinctly view the Greatness, and Ground-Plot of Naples, with its 
* The Castle of the Egg, the new Castle, and the Castle of St. Elmo. In the Castle of the Egg, there is a Brass Cannon, called the Magdalen, which carries a Ball of  Pound weight; and weighs twenty one thousand Pounds. Bulif.  Castles, Haven, Mole, and Lantern. It is a pleasure to look on the Gardens which surround it, and the Fruitful Hills which ascend to Campania the Happy. If you cast your Eyes on the other side, along the Seashore, the small Bays or Inlets which reciprocally mix with the little Capes, washed by that peaceful Sea, and the pretty Villages, with which the Coast is strewed, render a perfectly agreeable Object. A little farther the Air is thickened by the horrible Smoke of Vesuvius, and you may take a full view of this terrible Mountain.  
I shall not spend much time in describing either the Relics, Statues, or miraculous Images, as they call 'em: But it is reasonable you should have some Account of 'em, according to my wont Method, of saying somewhat of every thing. They keep at St. Lovis of the Palace, a reasonable quantity of the Virgin's Milk, which becomes liquid on all our Lady's Festivals. At St. John Carbonnara, the Blood of St. Januarius boils up, when any one comes near the Shrine in which his Body is kept; and the Blood of St. John Baptist, which is at St. Maria Donna Romita, doth the same thing whilst they say the Mass for the beheading of that Saint. I will say nothing of the Pieces of the true Cross, the Nails, the Branches of the Crown of Thorns, the Images of the Virgin, made by St. Luke, nor an infinity of suchlike Rarities, whose Number would tyre you. At St. Dominick the Greater, you may see the Crucifix, which said one Day to St. Thomas Aquinas, Thou hast written well of me, Thomas; What Reward wilt thou have? To which St. Thomas answered, None but thyself. The Legend adds, That this Holy Man being then in a Rapture, the fervour of his Zeal lifted him three Foot from the Earth, and so sustained him. They say, another Crucifix, which is in the Church of the Benedictines, had twice a long conversation with his Vicegerent, Pope Pius V That of St. Mary of the Carmelites, bowed his Head at the sight of a Cannon-Bullet which was shot at him; this was in the Year 1439, when D. Pedro of Arragon, besieged Naples. The Bullet only beat off the Crown of the Crucifix; they show it every Year on the first Friday in March, and the second Holiday in Christmas. At the Church of St. Agnello, in the Chapel belonging to the Family of the Monaci, another Crucifix which spoke, is to be seen; the Story of which you have in the following Inscription:  
Anno Domini, M CCC. in the Reign of King Charles II. this Holy Image of the Crucifix, whilst the Comperes wrangled about Money lent, shining with Divine splendour, declared the Truth of the Matter by Speech; which the Person guilty, being angry at, denied himself to be the Debtor, and presently struck the Image with a very hard Stone, on the Face, which instantly becoming Black and Blue, was a notable Miracle to all; and the Sacrilegious Person after so great a Crime, becoming , by the Prayers of the Creditor put up to God for him, was brought again to himself, and as long as he lived, did Penance for it.  
In the same Church, the Image of St. Mary of Intercession, hath often held long Discourses with the blessed Jane, Mother of St. Agnello, 
A Crow which ●●●uted Tiberi●s, Drusus, 〈◊〉 Germani●us Caesar's, was killed by a certain Tailor, and was ordered to be buried with a solemn funeral ●o●p Plin. 10. c. 44.  and with St. Agnello himself. Furthermore, it is not now a-days only, that such things have happened. Do you not remember you have read, that amongst the Prodigies which appeared at Rome, sometime before the Triumvirate, many Statues of the Gods sweat Blood and Water, and that there was an Ox which spoke? without doubt they were not less astonished under the Empire of Caligula, when the Statue of Jupiter, which was at Olympus, burst forth into such loud fits of Laughter, that those who were taking it down to carry it to Rome, fled away affrighted, and left their Work. You know the History of the Crow, which prognosticated Misfortune to Domitian, by its 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉.  
The great Number of Churches which we visited, and the Multitude of Tombs I observed there, gave me opportunity to transcribe many Epitaphs; if you will, to vary our Subject a little, I will communicate to you some part of my Collection: 'Tis true, they are written in a mournful Style, but, in my Opinion, agreeable, because so pathetical.  
In the Church of St. John the Evangelist, there are six or seven Epitaphs, made by the famous Poet Johannes Jovianus Pontanus. I fancy you can find nothing more tenderly, nor more happily expressed: Take Four only:  

On the Tomb of his Daughter Lucia.  
Liquisti Patrem in tenebris, mea Lucia, postquam  
E luce in tenebras, filia rapta mihi es.  
Sed neque tu in tenebras rapta es, quin ipsa tenebras  
Liquisti, & medio lucida sole micas.  
Coelo te natam aspicio, num nata Parentem  
Aspicis? an fingit haec sibi vana Pater?  
Solamen mortis miserae, te nata Sepulchrum  
Hoc tegit, haud Cineri sensus inesse potest.  
Si qua tamen de te superat pars, nata, fatere  
Felicem, quod te prima juventa rapit.  
At nos in tenebris vitam luctuque trahemus,  
Hoc pretium Patri, filia, quod genui.  
Musae, Filia, luxerunt te in obitu, at lapide in hoc luget te Pater tuus, quem liquisti in Squallore, cruciatu, gemitu, heu, heu! Filia, quod nec morienti Pater adfui, qui mortis cordolium tibi demerem; nec sorores ingemiscenti Collachrymarentur misellae; nec Frater singultiens, qui sitienti ministraret aquulam; nec mater ipsa, quae collo implicita, ore animulam acciperet, infelicissima; hoc tamen felix quod haud multos post annos revisit, tecumque nunc cubat. Ast ego felicior, qui brevi cum utraque edormiscam eodem in Conditorio. Vale Filia. Matri frigescenti cineres, interdum caleface, ut post etiam refocilles meos.  
Joannes Jovianus Pontanus L. Martiae, filiae dulciss. P. quae vixit. Ann. XIIII. Mens. VII. D.XII.  
Pont. Pater. L. Franc. Fil. infelic.  
Lucili, tibi lux nomen dedit, & dedit ipsa  
Mater stella tibi, stellaque luxque simul.  
Eripuit nox atra, nigrae eripuere tenebrae:  
Vixisti vix quot litera prima notat.  
Hosne dies? breve tumne tibi lux fulsit, & aurae  
Maternum in nimbis sic tenuere jubar?  
Infelix fatum, puer heu malè felix, heu! quod  
Nec puer es, nec lux, nec nisi inane quid es.  
Floreat ad pueri tumulum, ver halet, & urnae  
Lucili, & cineri spiret inustus odor.  
Dies L. non implesti, Filiole, breve naturae specimen, aeternus parentum moeror, ac desiderium.   

For his Wife.  
Illa thori bene fida Comes, custosque pudici,  
Cuique & acus placuit, cui placuere coli.  
Quaeque focum castosque Lares servavit, & arae  
Et Thura, & lachrymas, & pia serta dedit.  
In prolem studiosa parens, & amabilis uni  
Quae studuit caro casta placere viro,  
Hic posita est Ariadna; rosae, violaeque nitescant,  
Quo posita est syrio, spiret odore locus:  
Urna crocum Dominae fundat, distillet amomum,  
Ad tumulum, & cineri sparsa cilissa fluat.  
Quinquennio postquam uxor abiisti, dedicata prius aedicula monumentum hoc tibi statui, tecum quotidianus ut loquerer, nec si mihi non respondes, nec respondebit desiderium tui, per quod ipsa mecum semper es: aut obmutescit memoria, per quam tecum non loquor. Ave igitur, mea Hadriana, ubi enim ossa mea tuis miscuero, uterque simul bene valebimus. Vivens tecum vixi. Ann. XXIX. D.XXIX. Victurus post mortuus aeternitatem aeternam. Joannes Jovianus Pontanus, Hadrianae Saxonae, Uxori opt. ac benemerentiss. P. quae vixit Ann. XLVI. mens. VI obiit Kalend. Mart. Ann. M. CCCC.LXXXX.   

For Himself.  
Vivus domum hanc mihi paravi, in qua quiescerem mortuus. Noli obsecro injuriam mortuo facere, vivens quam feceram nemini. Sum etenim Joannes Jovianus Pontanus, quem amaverunt bonae Musae, suspexerunt viri probi, honestaverunt Reges Domini, scis jam qui sum, aut qui potius fuerim: Ego vero te, hospes, noscere in tenebris nequeo, sed te ipsum ut noscas Rogo. Vale.   

At Sancta Clara, for a Maid who died at the time of her Espousals:  
Nata, eheu miserum! misero mihi nata parenti,  
Unicus ut fieres, unica nata dolor.  
Dum tibi namque virum, taedas, thalamumque parabam,  
Funera, & inferias, anxius ecce paro.  
Debuimus tecum poni materque, paterque,  
Ut tribus haec miseris urna parata foret.   
In the same Church, for King Robert, who was the Founder, and was Surnamed the Good, and the Wise: Cernite Robertum regem virtute refertum.  
This Panegyric is a little brief, for a Prince of such Wisdom and Knowledge, and so great a Captain: But the longest Eulogies are not always the best: There are two others of the same Style, at St. Pietro d' Ara.  
D. O. M. Fabritio Francipano, ovi nec viventi Romani virtus, nec morienti vera pietas defuit. Haeredd. ex testa. B. M. etc.  
At St. Domin. Maj. for a Lord of the House of Caraffa: 
Huic  
Virtus Gloriam,  
Gloria immortalitatem  
comparavit  
M. CCCC.LXX.   
In the same Church, for a Person who is not named: Terra tegit terram.  
In the same Church, for the Cardinal d' Ariano, of the Family of Caraffa: 
Vivat adhuc quamvis defunctum ostendat imago,  
Discat quisque suum vivere post tumulum.   
In the Vestry of the same Church, are many Tombs of the Kings and Queens of Naples. They have there represented Death, under whose Effigies these Words are written: 
Sceptra ligonibus aequat.  
Memoriae Regum Neopolitanorum Arragonensium, etc.   
For King Ferdinand II.  
Ferrandum mors saeva diu fugis arma gerentem,  
Mox, illum positis, impia, falce necas.  
Obiit anno Domini 1496.  
For Isabel of Arragon, Daughter of Alphonsus I. and Wife of John Galeas, Duke of Milan; 
Hic Isabella jacet, centum sata sanguine Regum,  
Quâcum majestas Itala prisca jacet.  
Sol qui lustrabat radiis fulgentibus orbem  
Occidit, inque alio nunc agit orbe diem.  
Obiit die 11. Febr. 1524.   
In the same place, for the Marquis of Pescara, by Ariosto: 
Quis jacet hoc gelido sub marmore? Maximus ille  
Piscator, belli gloria, pacis honos.  
Numquid & hic pisces coepit? Non. Ergo quid? Urbes,  
Magnanimos Reges, oppida, Regna, Deuces.  
Dic quibus haec coepit Piscator retibus? Alto  
Consilio, intrepido cord, alacrique manu.  
Qui tantum rapuere ducem? Duo numina, Mars, Mors.  
Ut raperent quisnam compulit? Invidia.  
At nocuere nihil; vivit nam fama superstes,  
Quae martem, & mortem vincit, & invidiam.   
For John Alefelt, a Danish Gentleman, who died at Naples, in his Travels: His Sepulchre is at Mount Olivet: 
Ut flos mane viret, tepida productus ab aura,  
Languescit flaccus vespere, nocte cadit.  
Sic nos mortales orimur, morimurque miselli,  
Certaque vivendi, non datur ulla dies.  
Praesentis vitae est cursus labyrinthus, in illum,  
Ex utero intravi, morte vocante abii.  
Erravi hic quantum Deus, & mea fata volebant:  
Lustraque transmisi quinque diesque decem.  
Nobilibus tribui stadiis haec tempora vitae,  
Ut sic nobilior, nobilis ipse forem.  
Horum & Liligeri me visere Regna Monarchae,  
Fecit, & in Latium bis pius egit amor,  
Nunc jaceo, Patriae longè tumulatus ab oris;  
Judicis expectans acta suprema Dei.  
Cimbrica me genuit Tellus Arctoa, sub Austro,  
Parthenope rapuit, Parthenopeque tenet.  
Obiit XVI. Kal. Jul. an. M.D.LXXXI.   
In the same Church:  
Constantia Davila, & Beatrix Picolominea filia, redditis quae sunt Coeli Coelo, & quae sunt Terrae Terrae, ut semper uno vixere animo, sic uno condi tumulo voluere. O beatam & mutui amoris constantiam!  
I forgot the Epitaph of Joan the First, Queen of Jerusalem, and both the Sicily's. Charles de Duras, whom she had first adopted, and who afterwards rebelled against her, caused her to be strangled in Prison, accusing her that she had strangled Andrew of Hungary, her first Husband; concerning which Historians vary. The Intrigues of a Landress and a Cordelier, were the cause of all her Misfortunes. The Tomb of Andrew is in the Cathedral. This is the Epitaph of Queen Joan: 
Inclyta Parthenopes jacet hic Regina Joanna  
Prima: prius felix, mox miseranda nimis:  
Quam Carolo genitam, mulctavit Carolus alter,  
Quâ morte illa virum sustulit ante suum.  
M.CCC.LXXXII. 22. Maii.  She was the Daughter of Charles of Sicily, Duke of Calabria. I remember I have read somewhere, of a certain Fortune-teller, who looking in her Hand, told her, when she was very young, Maritaberis cum ALIO; and that it was observed afterwards, that the Word ALIO, was composed of the first Letters of her four Husbands Names, 
* Andrew of Hungary; Lovis, Prince of Tarentum; James, Prince of Majorca; and Otho of Brunswick.  Andrew, Lovys, James, and Otho.  
At St. Mary of the Concord, for a King of Fez, who embraced the Roman Religion, and died one Hundred Years old.  
D. O. M. B. M. V.  
Gaspar ex serenissima Benemerina familia, vigesimus secundus in Africa Rex, dum contra Tyrannos à Catholico Rege arma rogat auxiliaria, liber effectus a Tyrannide Machometi, cujus impiam cum lacte hauserat legem, in Catholicam adscribitur; Numidiam proinde exosus, pro Philippo III. Hispaniarum Monarcha, pro Rodulpho Caesare quibus carus, preclarè in haereticos apud Belgas, Pannonosque saevit armatus. Sub Urbano VIII. Eques commendator, Immaculatae conceptions, Deiparae creature, & Christianis, Heroicis, Regiis virtutibus ad immortalitatem anhelans, centenarius hic mortale reliquit, & perpetuum censum cum penso quater in hebdomade, incruentum missae sacrificium ad suam offerendi mentem. Anno Dom. M.DC.XLI.  
Pope Innocent iv died at Naples, in the Year 1254. His Tomb is to be seen at the Cathedral, with two Epitaphs, too long to be here recited: The first is in Leonine Verses, and hath no great Spirit in it: The other is in Prose, and therein it is observed, that this Pope, Purpureo primos pileo Cardinals exornavit; First adorned the Cardinals with a purple Cap: He thought fit to make them this Compliment, the more to engage their Friendship, during his Broils with Fr. Barbarossa. About fifty Years after, Boniface VIII. bestowed the Purple Robe on them. Paul II. the Red Cap, and some other marks of distinction: And Urban VIII. the quality of honour to be styled, Their Eminencies. I observed in the same Church, on the Tombs of many Canons, that they have not had the Titles of Cardinals for above two hundred Years. Raymundus Barrilius, Neapo. Presbyter, Canonicus Cardinalis, etc. Do. Petrus Nicolaus de Marchesiis Neap. Sacerdos, almae Ecclesiae Canonicus, Diaconus, Cardinalis, etc. anno 1472. You know that this formerly signified, Presbyter Cardinalis, or Presbyter Principalis. There is some appearance that the Canons of this Church had the privilege to make use of this Term, according to old Custom, for a considerable time after it was altered.  
In the Chapel of the Family Alesia, at St. Agnello: 
Quae miser imposui lugubria saxa Sepulchro,  
Mî pater innumeris accipe pro meritis.  
Quod si marmoream licuisset sumere formam  
Te natus tegeret non alio lapide.  
Incisaeque notae legerentur; Gratus ALEXIS,  
Reddidit ossa Patri, fitque Patri Tumulus.   
It is so rare a thing for a Bishop to prefer his Condition to that of a Cardinal, that I must not forget the following Epitaph.  
Sigismundo Pappacudae Franc. F. Tropejensium Praesuli; viro oped. & Jurisconsulto, qui cum in coetum Cardinalium fuisset à Clement VII. adscitus, maluit in Patriâ Episcopus vivere. Haeredes pos. Vixit. An. 80. M. VI.D.X. obiit 1536.  
Doth not this Man put you in mind of John Angelico de Fiesola, that good Brother Dominican, who was skilful in painting, and chose rather to work in his Cell, than to be promoted to the Arcbishoprick of Florence? The Church which hath the Tomb of Sigismond, is called St. John of Pappacodi's, because it was built by one of his Ancestors. They tell us, That that Gentleman, being buried for dead after a Fit of the Apoplexy, one of his Kindred, who was in the Country, hearing of it, came Post immediately, and caused the Tomb to be opened. The Body was found dead; but it appeared that he had shifted his Posture.  
At S. Severin of the Benedictus, for J. Baptist. Cicaro.  
Liquisti Gemitum miserae lachrymasque Parenti,  
Pro quibus infelix hunc tibi dat tumulum.  
For Andrew Banifacia, a young Infant in the same Place. The Verses were made by Sannazarius.  
Nate Patris Matrisque amor, & suprema voluptas,  
En tibi quae nobis te dare sors vetuit.  
Busta, eheu! tristesque natas damus, invida quando  
Mors immaturo funere te rapuit.  
Both Tombs are Magnificent. The Chapel that belongs to the Family of Sanseverino in the same Church, is an tightly beautiful Structure. There you may see the Tombs of the Three young Lords, Brothers, who were poisoned by their Uncle, and all three died in the same Hour. There is something so tightly feeling in this, that I cannot forbear to send you their Epitaphs, together with that of the Countess their Mother.  
1. Hic ossa quiescunt Jacobi Sanseverini, Comitis Saponariae, veneno misere ob avaritiam necati, cum duobus miseris Fratribus eodem fato, eadem hora commorientibus.  
2. Jacet hic Sigismundus Sanseverinus, veneno impiè absumptus, qui eodem fato, eodem tempore, pereuntes Germanos fratres nec alloqui nec cernere potuit.  
3. Hic Situs est Ascanius Sanseverinus, cui obeunti eodem veneno, iniquè atque impiè, commoririentes fratres nec alloqui nec videre quidem licuit.  
4. Hospes, miserrimae miserrimam defleas orbitatem. En Hippolita Montia, post natas foeminas infelicissima, quae Ugo Sanseverino conjugi, tres maximae expectationis filios peperi: qui venenatis poculis (vicit in familia, pro Scelus! pietatem cupiditas, timorem audacia, & rationem amentia) unà in miserorum complexibus parentum, miserabiliter illicò expirarunt. Vir; aegritudine sensim obrepente, paucis post annis in his etiam manibus expiravit. Ego tot superstes funeribus, cujus requies in tenebris, solamen in lachrymis, & cura omnis in morte collocatur. Quos vides separatim tumulos ob aeterni doloris argumentum, & in memoriam illorum sempiternam. Anno M.D.XLVII.  
Here is an instance of another afflicted Mother in the Chapel of the Family of Coppola, in the Church of St. Aug.  
O Fata prepostera! o miserrimam pietatem! Clarix Rynalda Tiberii Coppulae Jures-Consi & camerae Regiae Praesidis Uxor amantissima, sepultis turbato Ordine VII. dulcissimis infantibus filiis, post habito paterno tumulo, simul cum iis sepeliri voluit. Et materni Amoris officium, quod viventibus maluisset, saltem in communi sede cineribus paranda, exiguum doloris ingentis solatium praestaret, M. D.LXXXXI.  
Over-against the great Church of the Carmelites, in a place of the People, there is a kind of Chapel, which was built by order of Charles I. King of Naples, in the same place where that Prince caused the Head of the unfortunate 
* He was not sent to the Holy Land, because he was excommunicated.  Conradin to be cut off, 
† And five or six Lords more.  and at the same time his Cousin Frederick's, Marquis of Baden, and Duke of Austria. This Tragedy is painted in Fresco, on the Walls within the Chapel, They have there also the Pillar of Porphyry, which was erected in the middle; and round about this Distich is written; 
Asturis ungue Leo, pullum rapiens Aquilinum  
Hic deplumavit, acephalumque dedit.  The Body was presently put into the little Chapel, and afterwards removed into the Church of the Carmelites.  
They showed us in the Convent of the Carmelites, the place where the famous Rebel Thomas Aniello was killed, 
Vulgarly called Massaniello.  eighteen Days after the Establishment of his Commonwealth. I have a piece of the Money that was coined at Naples in the time of those Disorders, with this Inscription, S. P. Q. N. Senatus Pop. Queen Neap. A just Comparison might be made between Massaniello and Cromwell: there is only this difference, that Cromwell was a Gentleman, and Massaniello but a Fisherman.  
Our Guide told us, as we passed before the Church of St. Marry Major, That the Devil appeared formerly in the shape of a Hog, in the place where that Church was since built; whicy so affrighted, and drove away the Inhabitants of Naples, that the City almost became desolate: But that the Virgin answering the Vows of Pomponius, than Bishop of Naples, ordered him to build a Church for her, in the place where they most frequently saw the infernal Hog; which being done, it never appeared afterwards. They add, That in memorial of this Event, the Bishop caused a Hog of Brass to be made which is now kept in a part of the said Church.  
You have not here all I intent to tell you concerning Naples. But because we now write to London, I thought fit to join this Letter to the Packet. Do me the Honour to love me still, and believe that I am,  
SIR, Yours, etc. At Naples, Mar. 14. 1688.   

LETTER XXII.  
SIR,  
THE City of Naples hath been so many times ransacked, and hath gone through the Hands of so many Masters, that the greatest part of its Antiquities have been buried in their own Ruins. The Front of St. Paul Major is the Frontispiece of the old Temple of Apollo, was afterwards dedicated to Castor and Pollux, by one Tiberius Julius Tarsus, a Freedman of Augustus: His Name is distinctly to be read on one of the Frieses of this Frontispiece, 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉. The Portico is supported by eight channelled Pillars, of the Corinthian Order; and on the Pediment are some Basso Relievoes, which represent the Deities.  
They say that the Columns of St. Restituta were taken from a Temple of Neptune. There also remain some Ruins of an Amphitheatre. We often took notice, as we passed, of an ancient Statue of the Nile, supported by a Crocodile. The House of D. Diomodes Caraffa is exceedingly full of Sculptures and ancient Inscriptions. You may see in the Court, the Head, and all the Crest of a Horse of Brass, which had no Bridle, and which was sometimes in one of the Places of Naples, as an Emblem of the Liberty of that City, when it was governed as a Commonwealth. But King Conrade caused a Bit to be put on this Horse, as now appears, and wrote, as they say, these two Verses, on the Pedestal which supported it.  
Hactenus effraenis, Domini nunc paret habenis;  
Rex Domat hunc aequus Parthenopensis equum.  
There are also a great many old Ruins found on the Hill; where, as the Antiquaries say, was 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉, towards St. Cosmus and St. Damian. And besides that, several curious Persons, as amongst others, M. Richetti hath picked up divers Antiquities, and particularly made Collections of Medals; from some whereof, great Light hath been drawn for the History of Naples. I refer the speaking of the Catacombs to another time.  
You know with what exactness and success Pope Sixtus V extirpated the Banditti out of Rome, and all the Ecclesiastical State. But you also know that the other Princes of Italy had not the same good Fortune, though all with common consent undertook the Work. These Bands of Thiefs were more numerous than ever in the Kingdom of Naples; and some Years ago, to travel securely, they were forced to go in Caravans. At present there is nothing to be feared, the Marquis del Carpio, last Viceroy of Naples, hath at last freed that Country from the Robberies and Murders of that wicked Gang: Many of them have been put to the Sword, and others executed. There is a great number of them yet in Prison; we saw five hundred of them in the Arsenal, who surrendered themselves some Months since, on condition their Lives should be saved, and they not sent to the Galleys.  
furthermore, if they have exterminated all the Banditti by Profession, there are still remaining a great number of others who are little better. To speak in general, the People of Naples are a very wicked People; the Prisons swarm with Malefactors; and they affirmed to us, that there are at present, in two Prisons only, about four thousand who deserve death. They did not hit amiss, who said, That Naples is a Paradise inhabited with Devils.  
The City is extremely fine, as I have already told you; but there are many things which are not suitable to its Beauty, and which cloud the pleasant Countenance it would otherwise have. First, you can see no Women in it; it hath this fault in common, with all the other Cities of Italy. You must not think I am become too much a Gallant, when I say, this is to hid ridiculously the fairest half of the World. Secondly, the Habits and Equipages of Naples are of black and dark Colours, which are apt to inspire Melancholy. You are forbidden to wear Gold or Silver, or Silk upon Silk. The greatest Lord can have but two 
* Staffieri.  Footmen: And the greatest part of the Coaches being drawn slowly by Mules, are both uneasy and unpleasant. The Spanish Dress is generally used. The Viceroy is seldom seen; and his Court looks dull and melancholy like the rest. The Trade of Naples is much decayed: They make there a great deal of Soap, Snuff of Tobacco, Stockings, Waistcoats, and other worsted Commodities.  
We yesterday made a Voyage to Vesuvius; 
Mount Vesuvius. See Letter XXXIII.  the Journey was somewhat troublesome, and the sight of it dreadful. I will endeavour to give a more distinct account of it than you can receive from the Descriptions already made.  
They reckon it eight Miles from Naples to the top of Vesuvius. During the first four Miles, we passed through many good Villages, following the Sea-Coast: These places are well tilled, and seem to have received no damages from the Eruptions of the Mountain, notwithstanding they have happened so frequently. There are only from place to place great Stones, which have been rolled thither.  
Going out of this last Village, called Resina, we turned to the Left, and began to ascend; and you may still travel on Horseback two large Miles, or two Miles and an half further, amongst lose Stones, and heaps of baked Earth, which the Vomitings of the Mountain have spread all about. The more you advance, the more you find the Soil cracked, dry, burned, and covered with several sorts of calcined Stones, which are so many Monuments of those furious Eruptions. You may also observe in several places, the Channels of the Torrents of Sulphur and Bitumen, which have run down from the Mountain. In fine, the Ascent becomes so rough and difficult, that you must be forced to go on Foot; you may believe there are neither Taverns, nor other Houses, nor Boys to hold the Horses.  
I assure you there is a great deal of Pains and Trouble, which must be endured before you can mount to this prodigious Furnace. You are for the most part plunged amongst the Ashes, if one may properly give that the name of Ashes, which rather resembles Brickdust. Sometimes you fall back instead of advancing, because the Ashes give way under your Feet; and at last, after divers little restings, you come to the brim of the ancient Gulf; I say the ancient Gulf, because you will perceive by and by that things have some time since suffered great Alterations.  
This first height on which we now are, makes a Circle round the Gulf: The top of the Mountain having been worn, you may easily conceive what kind of Horns and rugged Elevations have been made in the circuit of its height. As near as we could guests, this vast melting Pot hath near a Mile Diameter; you may go down into it several ways, about an hundred Paces below the steep Circle of the brim of the Mountain, which is all the depth of this old Mouth.  
By an extraordinary Eruption, this vast Abyss was almost quite filled, in one of its last break out, with a mixture of Sulphur, of Bitumen, of Minerals, of Allom, of Nitre, of Salt-petre, and of Earth melted, or vitrified; all these matters giving over boiling, have formed a kind of thick Crust, or hardened Scum, which made a level in the Gulf, an Hundred Paces below its Brims. A furious shaking of the Mountain did afterward break this Crust, or thickness of hardened Matter, and tumbled the pieces one upon another, as when after you have broken the Ice of a Pond, a sudden Frost presently cements all the pieces together. This rugged Superficies is every where equally uneven; and there are here and there burning Funnels; from whence the Fumes continually exhale: In some places you feel the Heat through your Shoes, only walking over it.  
This is not all: Just in the middle of this Extent of the Mountain, which, you must know, is almost round; a furious Eruption hath forced its Passage, and formed a new Mountain. This Mountain is also round, and is about a quarter of a Mile in height. I could not count the Paces, because it was impossible to make them equal, by reason the Ashes hinder it; which, as I have already told you, make one sometimes slide back.  
After we had traversed that rough space, which is like a low Trench, about Three hundred Paces broad between the Bounds of the greater and lesser Mountains, as I have already described them. You mount the last with as much pains as you did the first. It is all full of smoking Chinks. In many places you see Sulphur almost pure, with a kind of Sal Armoniac, which is almost of a Citron Colour. In others, there is a reddish and porous Matter, like the Scum of Iron, which comes from Smith's Forges: There are pieces of all Colours, Fashions, and Weights: All this having been baked and re-baked by so vehement a Fire, and this Composition of so many different Matters, having been melted and incorporated together, you may easily imagine what it is.  
The top of the little Mountain hath its opening as well as the great one, which at present is the Throat of this vast Abyss; we guessed it to be about an hundred Paces in breadth. There issues out a flood of Smoke, which almost fills its Capacity; but there come sometimes Gusts of Wind from above, which drive away this Smoke, sometimes one way, and sometimes another, which permitted us to view clearly the height of the Mouth, though at several times.  
The Brink is perpendicular within, except in one place, where it is sloping enough to descend into it. Our Guide going first down, three or fourscore Paces before, we followed him; which (I must tell you by the buy) was unnecessarily done, and which I would not advise any body to do. We were then on the Brink of this dreadful Precipice, and we rolled down many Stones, or hard Masses, which we loosened about us: Sometimes they stopped at the first or second falling; at other times they made a long continuation of boundings with a great noise. It had been to no purpose to have computed the time these Stones took up in their leaps or descents, because there is no bottom can be guessed at where they must stop at last; the noise ceasing sometimes, only in respect of those who heard it, the distance alone rendering it insensible.  
We could not perceive that what we tumbled into this Gulf did any way increase its Smoke. It is true, greater Masses were necessary for such an Experiment; and yet it would have been very uncertain whether they would have produced any effect; there being nothing to oblige us to believe that there is a Lake of of boiling matters, which perpendicularly answers to the Mouth of the Mountain.  
Some bring with them Gunpowder, and make Mines, to have the pleasure to blow up great Rocks: But to speak freely, I think it a great folly to carry their Curiosity so far, in so dangerous a place; and I think it wisely done not to stay there too long. The sudden disgorging of the Flames, is not what is to be most feared: But the quaking of the Mountain always precedes the great Claps, and always comes very suddenly. Many have been surprised there; and you know how poor Pliny was surprised by it, though he was at a considerable distance.  
The following Inscription is to be seen about three Miles from Naples, in a Village on the Way to the Mountain.  
Posteri, posteri, vestra res agitur. Dies facem praefert Diei; nudius perendino. Advortite vicies ab satu solis, ni fabulatur historia, arsit Vesuvius immani semper clade haesitantium: Ne posthac incertos occupet, moneo. Uterum gerit mons hic bitumine, alumine, ferro, auro, argento, nitro, aquarum fontibus gravem. Serius ocius ignescet, pelagoque influente pariet; sed ante parturit, concutitur, concutitque solum: fumigat, coruscat, flammigerat, quatit aerem, horrendum immugit, boat, tonat, arcet finibus accolas. Emigra dum licet. Jamjam enititur, crumpit, mixtum igne lacum evomit, praecipiti ruit ille lapsu, seramque fugam praevertit. Si corripit, actum est, periisti. Anno salutis 1631, etc.— Tu si sapis, audi clamantem lapidem, sperne larem, sperne sarcinulas; mora nulla, fuge.  
Every body knows what Baronius, and many other Authors have reported, of the burn of this Mountain, whose Roar have been heard to Rome, and and its Lightnings even to Egypt; the thickness of whose Smoke hath, as it were, eclipsed the Sun, and made dark Nights at Noonday; whose Streams of Brimstone have run into the Sea, so that the very Sea hath swelled and boiled with heat. But without having recourse to old Stories, we need but ask the present Inhabitants of Naples, in the Year 1682, from the fifteenth of August, to the twenty seventh of the same Month, in the Year 1685, at the end of Semptember, and the last Year in the Month of April: They have been Witnesses of the same Tragedies.  
Though I might mix my small Philosophy with that of the learned, who have written on this Subject, yet would I not undertake it for the present: My Design is only to represent the Matter of Fact to you as it is.  
I find myself in a manner overladen with the number of Curiosities which we saw about Puzzoli; the little time we had to view them axactly would not suffer me to take particular Notice of them all. I know these things have been many times described; but I am well assured that you never read in any Relation, such a Description of Vesuvius, as that which I have now made you. I am also persuaded that you will find something new, in what I have to say of the Journey we lately made. Going out of the Suburbs of Naples, in the way to Puzzoli, you meet with the Hill, which bears the Name of Pausilypus, 
Pausilypus.  〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉, say some Etymologists.  
Pausilypus noster qui nunc dat nomina monti,  
Sic dicta à magno Caesare villa fuit.  
Quod foret insanis requies fidissima curis,  
Et portum fessa redderet illa rati.  
In effect, this delicious Hill hath a charming Situation: It is well cultivated, sprinkled with Houses of Pleasure, and abundance of excellent Vines.  
It is daily found, that Travellers are obliged to march up more difficult Ascents than this; which naturally was only an easy sloping Ascent, and might have been made almost insensible, by filling up the Ways with Earth, supported by Walls: But out of an extravagant Humour, they pierced the Mountain, and through this Hole, made indeed a shorter Way, and of a more extraordinary Structure, but an hundred times more troublesome than the Ascent of the Hill: This Cave is commonly called, 
The Grotta of Puzzoli, or Pausilypus.  The Grotta of Puzzoli: It is cut in some places through the Rock, and in other places through the Sand. It is near a Mile in length, thirty or forty Foot in height, and about eighteen in breadth; so that two Coaches may easily pass by each other: There is no Light but at the two ends, and a little Hole in the middle, over an Oratory, which is made in the Rock, by enlarging that part of the Way a little. This Light is very small; and the Mists of fine Dust, which are raised by every Step we make, almost blind the Passengers: You must wrap up your Head, or cover your Face very well with a Handcherchief, if you will avoid breathing Earth instead of Air. You can see so little in this obscure Cave, that when you hear Company coming at a distance, you must cry out to them, To the Right, or, To the Left, that they may take the opposite side, and nor fall foul on each other as you meet.  
This is an ancient Work: Seneca makes mention of it, and complained, as well as we, of its Dust and Darkness. 
* P. Razzani; P. Jovius; L. Alberti; F. Lombardo; and many other Authors.  'Tis attributed to one Cocceius, without mentioning who he was; and some affirm that he was only the Undertaker; others speak of him as of a Prince or Governor of the Country; and they allege some ancient Annals, wherein it is said, 
† Schraderus hath also written the same thing.  that an hundred thousand Men, finished this Cavern in fifteen Days, by the Orders of Cocceius.  
The Lake of Agnano is between two Hills, a little beyond Pausilypus: 
The Lake of Agnano.  This Lake is almost round, and is about a Mile in circuit: The Water is very clear, and hath no ill taste; you may observe it boil every where, without perceiving any heat. Tench and Eels are there in great abundance. On the sides of the Lake are two things considerable; the Caves which are called, The Baths of St. Germane; and The Grotta di Cane. 
The Baths of St. German.  They tell us a long and fabulous Story, which occasioned the Denomination of these Baths, which, in my Opinion, is not worth the relating: You must know, after the third or fourth step which you make to descend into them, you are seized with a heat, which smells of brimstone, and which puts you into a sudden sweat. Gouty Persons, and those that are troubled with some other Distempers, which are brought thither from all parts, receive, as they say, great benefit from them.  

Grotta di Cani: See the Instructions to a Traveller.  The Grotta of the Dog, is, as it were, the beginning of a Cave, at the Foot of a Hill: It is nine Foot long or deep, four and an half broad, and five high: It is not an effect of Art. The bottom is nothing but pure Earth, or Stone covered with Dust, as the middle of a Highway; and the sides have nothing that is polished or wrought, or any way remarkable: I considered the whole very carefully. They cause you to observe some Drops which fall from above, and which, they say, are caused by the condensation of the Steams raised from below, of which I will speak presently. The thing deserves a particular examination; but it is more natural to say, that this Water distils from the Mountain, and pierces the top of the Grotto; you may see the like in all such places. There arises out of the Earth in this Grotto, a thin and piercing Exhalation, without any Smoke; this seizes on the Breath, and chokes one in a Minute. This Vapour is vulgarly accounted to be deadly Poison, though in appearance it is only a Sulphurous Steam. We need not dispute about Words; we may call all that kills, deadly; and in this sense, there is not a more deadly Poison than a Musket Bullet; we shall therefore give this Vapour what Name you please, and proceed to give you an account of what happened, and what we saw.  
He who hath the Key of the Baths of St. Germane, hath also that of this Grotto; for I must tell you by the way, that they do not leave it open. This Man enters standing as upright as he can, to the middle of the Grotto. He bows, and knelt down by degrees, holding his Head always upright; he sits down on his Heels, so that his Hands may touch the Earth: Then he holds the Dog by all his four Feet, and lays him down suddenly on his Side on the Ground; in an instant, the poor Creature falls into Convulsions, turns his Eyes, lolls out his Tongue, stretches himself out without crying, and becomes stiff, and he that holds him, throws him for dead out of the Cave: He is presently put into t●e Lake, which is not above twenty Paces distant, where, in less than a Minute, he reassumes his Spirits, and swims out of the Water; he runs about crying, as it were to express the Joy for his deliverance. 

Charles VIII. King of France, made trial with an Ass; and the Viceroy D. Pedro de Toledo, with two Slaves, who died.  
The Sieur Villemont speaks in his Travels, of a Gentleman, named Tournon, who stooping in the Grotto, to take up a Stone, was seized by the Vapour, and presently carried to the Lake, and in a short time recovered his Spirits: But the Author adds, that Tournon died a few Moment's after. Samelli.   They have made this Experiment upon Men, and all sorts of Animals, with the same effect. Two Foot from the Earth, and even nearer, there is nothing to be feared, for the Spirits grow thin, and are dispersed; but the lower you stoop, the greater is the danger: These Spirits are subtle and violent; they sparkle, and break forth impetuously, and in abundance. We cannot light a Match, without perceiving some appearances of the like Nature.  
The Keeper of the Grotto made also another Experiment: He went in with two great lighted Torches, and when he bowed one near the Ground, it not only ceased to flame, but was quite extinguished, without any Fire or Smoak: He lighted it again with the other, and thus put them out, and kindled them by turns.  
They tell us of the like Vapours in a Cave at Zoli in Hungary; and Pliny making mention of this, concerning which I am speaking, calls it Spiraculum Puteolanum, and ranks it with those which he calls Scrobes Charoneae. All the adjacent Country is nothing but Brimstone. We passed by Monte Secco, and Solfatara, which are all full of Brimstone, Allom, and Holes underground, whence Flame and Smoke exhale, with Noise and Stink, at least as much as we see at present in Vesuvius: They prepare Roch-Allom on the 
† Solfatara. See, at the end of the Second Volume, the Instructions to a Traveller.  Solfatara; which is a dry, Yellow and White Mountain, all baked and worn by its own Fire. They erect little Cabins there, in which they labour at that Work, and the sole heat of the Vents makes the Caldrons boil.  
This Hill, the highest part whereof is worn out by the Fire, is in form of a kind of Oval Basin, about twelve hundred and fifty Foot long, and a Mile in breadth. The Fumes which continually issue out, are often smelled at Naples. They assure me, that by them the Marble is blackened, and the Ornaments of their Churches sullied, as well as the Goods in their Houses. All these Spirits of Sulphur, Allom, Vitriol, etc. with which the Earth is filled, do also corrupt the Waters. The Capuchins of St. Januarius, who are near to it, have been constrained to lift up their Cisterns into the Air, upon a Pillar, to hinder its having such Communication with them, as might spoil their Water.  
The greatest part of the People in and about Naples, no way doubt, but that the fuming Holes of the Solfatara, are, in a literal sense, the real Chimneys of Hell. Capaccio, who hath very nicely examined the whole matter, is of the same Opinion: He assures us, that the  Capuchins, from time to time, hear most frightful Howl, and are often plagued with Hobgoblins (Spesso sono stati travagliati da il Diavoli, e spesso sentono ullulati, & terrori di grandissimo spa vento.) He adds many Stories on this Occasion, which he gives out for certain Truths, and says further, that many People believe that this Country is full of Treasures, which would be easily discovered, but for the wicked Spirits, which domineer there, and keep them.  
Going down from thence we came to Puzzoli: 
PUZZOLI.  This City, formerly so famous, is now very inconsiderable. I will say nothing of its ancient Names, nor of its Antiquity, or Etymology, which may be found amongst Geographers; Wars, Earthquakes, Insults of the Sea, and Time which devours every thing, have almost totally destroyed it: But a great quantity of stately Ruins, demonstrate its ancient Magnificence. Almost adjoining to St. James' Church, you see the Ruins of an 
* The Arena or Bottom was 172 Feet long, and 88 broad. Capaccio.  Amphitheatre, which was built of hewn Stone. Tradition will have it, that St. Januarius, and 
† Sosius, Proculus, Euticetes, Acutius, Festus, Desiderius, in the Year 299. Others say 305.  six other Christians, were here given for a Prey to wild Beasts, but the Beasts adored, instead of devouring them. Some time after, these seven Champions had their Heads cut off near the Solfatara, in that place where now a Church is built, and dedicated to St. Januarius. These Words are written on the Altar: Locus decollationis S. Januarii, & sociorum ejus.  
Close to the Amphitheatre, 
Those of Puzzoli give to this Amphitheatre the Name of Colliseum, though they have not the same reason for it, as that of Rome. Sarnelli hath written, that it remained entire not long ago, and that the Earthquakes at last destroyed it. It was in the midst of the old City.  are great Ruins, almost wholly buried, which they believe are the Remainders of a Labyrinth; but there is more reason to believe it hath been a Fishpond, like the Piscina Mirabilis.  
The Cathedral is built on the Ruins of a Temple of Jupiter; and of part of the Materials of that Temple, particularly the Frontispiece, where it appears by an ancient Inscription, that it was built by Calphurnius Luc. Fil.  
Between the City and the Amphitheatre, you may observe the Ruins of a Temple of Diana. Towards the Dominicans of Jesus Maria, when the Sea is extremely turbulent, it throws on Shore some new Marks of the old Magnificence of the Palaces of Puzzoli; amongst which are many times found divers sorts of fine Stones, Cornelians, agates, Jaspars', Amethysts, etc. The Antiquaries pretend, that about this place, there were formerly a great Number of Jewellers and Goldsmith's Shops. The Sea also brings up other sorts of Stones, upon which, as well as the others, are several sorts of Figures graved; as Cocks, Eagles, Swans, Hares, Serpents, Grasshoppers, Aunts, Vine-Branches, Grapes, Ears of Corn, Heads of Men, and others, Mottoes of Greek and Latin, etc. Some People fancy, that Nature hath form all these Figures on them; and Superstition attributes several Virtues to them.  
The Sand which they use for Building at Puzzoli, deserves to be taken notice of. Vitruvius commends it extremely; and Pliny also boasts much of it: It enters the Composition of a certain sort of Mortar, which grows as hard as Marble, even in the Sea it-self.  
Taking Boat to go to the Lake Lucrin, which is two Miles from Puzzoli, we had time to consider the famous Arches, which, according to the vulgar Opinion, are some Remains of the Bridge which Caligula caused to be built from Bayae to Puzzoli: This is the common Opinion; and those Arches are usually called Caligula's Bridge, 
The Bridge of Caligula.  by the People of the Country: They admire this Miracle, and treat Strangers with it, as the rarest, and most surprising thing in the World: And, without doubt, there would be reason for it, considering so bold a piece of Work, as well deserves to be placed amongst the greatest Prodigies. But by misfortune, this pretended Bridge is a mere Chimaera. Suetonius hath so positively related the History of Caligula's Bride, which was a Bridge of Boats, and not of Brick or Stones, that I cannot but wonder, how so many People, have run into such false Notions. The History relates the Matter of Fact clearly: Bajaram, 
In the Life of Caligula, § 19  saith he, medium intervallum, & Puteolanas' moles trium millium, & sexcentorum fere passuum ponte conjunxit, contractis undique onerariis navibus, 
Per hunc pontem ultro citro commeavit, biduo Continenti.  & ordine duplici ad anchoras collocatis; superjectoque aggere terreno, ac directo in Appiae viae formam. Primo die phalerato equo— Postridie quadrgiario habitu, etc.  
The reasons which the Author adds, for this Humorous Prince's undertaking such a Work, signify nothing to the present purpose. Observe, I pray, the term of Puteolanas' Moles, he doth not say Puteolos, but Puteolanas' Moles. This clearly explains what those Arches were, which we see at present. This was properly what we call a Mole in our Language, 
There are 1 Arches.  a Rampart against the violence of the Waves, that Vessels might ride in safety in the Harbour. It is a thing commonly practised in Seaports. It is true, that this Mole was made in the form of Arches, which is not agreeable to the fashion of modern Times: But this ought not to raise any Scruple; for besides that it is in vain to contest against a thing so well confirmed; we ought to consider, that things are not always done after the same manner. And moreover, one might, in my Judgement, allege many substantial reasons to prove, that a Mole with Arches might be more durable than another; and that it may be sufficient to break the Waves, and abate the great Shocks of the Sea.  
The Lake of Lucrin, à Lucro dictus, 
The Lake Lucrino.  saith Charles Stephens, because of the great number of Fish found in it, is now but a little Pond, of a quarter of a Mile long, and about one hundred Paces broad. The new Mountain, which I shall presently speak of, hath almost filled it up. This little Lake is not above three or fourscore Paces from the Sea: It was formerly joined to it; and Pliny reports, that they were fain to make use of a great many Machine's, to separate them; Mare Tyrrhenum à Lucrino molibus seclusum. Suetonius tells us, that Augustus employed twenty thousand Men, to make a Communication between the Lucrino, and the Averno, and the Sea. He adds, that they made it a Haven.  
The Water of this Lake is always Salt: It was renowned for its Oysters, as well as Mount Gaurus. Nuptiae videbant ostreas Lucrinas, saith Varro.  Concha Lucrini delicatior stagni. Martial. 
One can hardly mention the Lake Lucrino, without calling to mind the Dolphin, which Pliny, and other Author's mention. The Story is thus: A Dolphin became familiarly acquainted with a young Boy, who went every Day to School from Bayae to Puzzoli, and used sometimes to give him Bread: One Day the Dolphin offered his Back to the Schoolboy, and carried him into the Bay, and at last accustomed himself to carry him over to and from School, as often as he desired. Appian affirms, he was an Eye-witness; and adds, that People came from all parts to Puzzoli to see it. 
* Maecenas and Egesydimus, Authors contemporary, ●●d cited by Th. Garzoni, with Flavianus and F. Alphius relate the same thing.  Solinus averrs, that this continued for so long time, that at last it was not looked upon as an extraordinary thing. Aristotle tells us so like a Story, that, had he not lived above four Ages before these Authors, one might have concluded it the same. If we should take notice of all that the Naturalists, both Ancient and Modern, have said of the Dolphin, we should have enough to allege, perhaps, to make the Story credible. All Animals are capable of being taught; and some amongst them may have a more than ordinary inclination to a Man. That which implies no Contradiction, ought not rashly to be 
† There is a difference between believing a thing, and not denying it.  denied. I have seen a Sea-Calf so very tame, that it would show most of the Tricks which they teach a Spaniel. Camerarius relates a great number of such Examples, in his Historical Meditations, of Dolphins, and other Fishes, taught to a Miracle. I will not contend about the Word Dolphin, or inquire into the modern appellation of the Fish, formerly known by that Name.  
In the Night, between the 19th and 20th of September, in the Year 1538. the Earth was brought to Bed of a Mountain, which hath ever since been called the New Mountain: Those who have measured it affirm, 
Monte Nuovo, or di Cencre.  That it is Four hundred Toises high perpendicularly, and three Miles and something more in Circuit. Naturalists have observed many ways by which Mountains are form; sometimes by Earthquakes; sometimes by Winds; other times by subterraneous Eruptions; as when a Mole heaves up the Earth, and makes those little Hillocks which we call Molehills. It was after this last manner this new Mountain was form, as well as the other new one which I have represented to you in the midst of the ancient Gulf of Vesuvius. The new Mountain hath a Gulf of fifty Paces diameter in the middle of its top; which sufficiently proves it was produced by Eruption: But it hath never cast out either Fire or Smoak since those, which were the Causes of so prodigious and dolorous a Birth. The Earth quaked; the Sea recoiled; the Lucrin Lake was almost filled up; Churches and Houses were set on fire, and swallowed up; great numbers of Men and Beasts perished; and there was a general and dreadful Consternation through all the neighbouring Country.  

In the County of Hereford.  Your Mountain of Markle Hill came into the World after a more calm and pleasant manner; about three and thirty Years after Monte Nuovo. I remember I have read with a great deal of Pleasure, what your Naturalists have written of it. A space of Earth, containing about thirty six Acres, on a sudden broke lose from the neighbouring Fields, and softly walked on for about four hundred Paces from thence: 

Pliny reports, that under the Emperor, Nero in the Kingdom of Naples, a Meadow, and a place planted with Olive Trees, loosened themselves from their places and removed.  
In Thuringia Cespes longitudine 50. pedum, latitudine 14. sine manibus Sublatus, à suo loco 20. pedum spatio trajectus, in Saxonia terra in aggeris modum intumuit. Aimon, Ann. 822.   These loosened Fields lifted up with them the Trees and Houses: On both sides the Earth opened itself, and withdrew, to give it passage: It marched a slow and regular pace for three Days and Nights, with little noise or disorder. At last, having chosen a new Mansion, it was pleased to swell and become a Mountain, now called Markle Hill. This must be allowed to be more pleasant than the thundering noise of Monte Nuovo.  
On the other side of the Lucrin Lake you may behold the Mountain of Christ, 
Monte di Christo.  another famous Hill, whose Adventure was briefly thus; The Earth formerly being seized by an extraordinary quaking and trembling, was shaken to its deepest Entrails, and cracked from the Superficies to the very Limbo Patrum; and the entrance into this Cavern, or rather the Mouth of this opening, remains to be seen to this very Day. Jesus Christ entering into this dark and sorrowful Abode, where he had been so long waited for, by those Souls which were destined to Heavenly Felicity, he led them in Triumph through this Subterranean Passage, and from the top of the Mountain lifted them up to Heaven. I know not what modern 
* Alcadino.  Poet hath expressed this pretended Story in these two Verses.  
Est locus effregit quo portas Christus Averni,  
Et sanctos traxit lucidus inde Patres.  
The Lake of Averno, that other Gulf of Hell, is but a good Mile from the Lake of Lucrino; it is near about the same bigness as that of Agnano. It is certain that now Birds fly and swim there; though Virgil, Lucretius, 
Lucian saith the same thing of Acheron.  Silius Italicus, Pliny, and several other Authors, have written, that it exhaled formerly a deadly Vapour which killed those Animals.  


Aneid. Gr. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉, avibus carens.  Quem super haud ullae poterant impune volantes,  
Tentere Iter pennis   


Cum venêre volantes, Remigii oblita pennarum velae remittunt, Precipitesque cadunt, Lucretius, lib. 6.  Unde locum Graii diverunt nomine Aumon.   
The difference between what we now see of this place, and the Description which the Ancients make of it to us, causes some to tax them commonly for Cheats, without any deliberation; particularly Pliny, whose Credit being cracked on a great many other occasions, is on this, looked upon as a great Lyar. Without undertaking here to make an absolute Apology for him, I must defend him in this particular, and boldly affirm, That he is no Liar in what he saith of the Lake of Averno. He quotes Varro, as relating a thing which formerly was, but saith of himself nothing positively. Pliny, a most curious Man, without doubt had many times visited this place. I think he was at Cumae, not far from thence, when Vesuvius burned so terribly under the Empire of Titus; and that going towards that raging Mountain, he was so unfortunate as to lose his Life. It is then probable enough that Pliny would have spoken positively, and as an Eye-witness of the Birds of Averno, if in his time the Air of the Lake had been so fatal to them: But he saith nothing like it. In his Discourses of the Lakes which have extraordinary Qualities, he citys Clesias the Greek Historian, who speaks of a Lake of the Indies, on which nothing swims; and afterwards produces the Testiomony of Varro touching the Averno. Strabo relates, that the Stench of this Lake was partly caused by the Trees that hung over its Sides, which covered and compassed it round about; and he adds, that these Woods being cut down by Augustus' Order, the Air became pure, and left off producing its usual effects.  
If this matter be true, as it cannot justly be doubted, since this Author was Contemporary to Augustus, and spoke without question, as a knowing Witness, we are not to admire at the positive testimony of Varro, or the Quotation of him by Pliny, since the one lived both before, and in the same time with Augustus, and others came not till some time afterwards. Without being too ready to believe these Writers, we may easily conceive, that things may have received Alterations since their times. Boccace, who lived three hundred years since, relates in his Treatise of Lakes, That some subterraneous stream of Sulphur, mixing with the Averno, the Waters of that Lake became stinking, and killed a great many of the Fish; which, he saith, he saw with his own Eyes. This makes it plainly appear, that this Lake hath not been always in the the same Condition: And the thing may be easily explained, if we will but a little reflect on the bituminous and sulphureous Matters, of which the adjacent Country is full. Some Earthquake may have obstructed the Canals of Communication, by which they spread themselves into the Lake Averno, which formerly poisoned its Waters, and caused it to exhale a subtle Matter, and the more dangerous because the Source was shut up under the shelter of those great Trees which environed it. To imagine that the Birds which fly in the middle Region of the Air over the Lake, should be offended with its Exhalations, would be to frame a Chimaera to ones self, and make the Historians say what they never intended. There is a great deal of Appearance, or rather 'tis plain and certain, that if the Grotto of the Dog were but four or five times bigger than it is, a Swallow which should fly there, sweeping the Earth, could never rise again: And why must it be reckoned impossible, that some such thing might formerly happen on the Lake of Averno? One of those places is greater than the other; but that altars not the Matter of Fact. If you would have another somewhat like this, and not so easy to be believed, I will quote your Natural History of England, where it is related, that the Wild Geese fall dead, when they fly directly over a certain place of the Plain of Withay in Yorkshire.  
Furthermore, I will here repeat what I have often said, that let things appear to be never so improbable, provided they imply no Contradiction, they ought not hastily to be condemned for false, without due examination. It must be acknowledged, that the Ignorance of Men conceals more things than their Knowledge could ever discover. We may please ourselves with acting the Philosophers, and laugh at occult Qualities, but the Phaenomena of Nature, to speak sincerely, are almost all incomprehensible. We pretend to understand, and to be able to explain the Abstrusest Appearances that happen before our own Eyes, and would be ashamed to own our Ignorance: But if we are told of any thing which surpasses our Understanding, or we have not before heard of, we immediately conclude it to be either a Miracle or a Lye.  
Though the Word Avernus comes from 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉, as Virgil said; there are so many Lakes which bear this Name, that we may look upon it as a general Appellation for those Sulphurous Gulfs, which the Ancients call the Gates or Throats of Hell; Ostia Ditis; Orci Janua; Inferni Janua Regis, as Virgil calls them. I fancy one might say the same thing of another Lake not far from this, which is one of the Acheron's. And it is apparent that this made Lucretius call these kinds of Pools Averna Loca. Silius confounds our Averno with Styx and Cocytus, and the other Rivers of Hell; which may contribute to our believing, that these Names became common to many Lakes or Rivers of the like Nature.  
The Ruins which appear in many places on the side of the Hills about the Averno, show that this place was extremely well cultivated, after they had cut down the Wood of tall Trees which surrounded it.  
It is uncertain whether the Ruins which are next to the Lake, are of a Temple of Mercury, or of Neptune; but Antiquaries agree, that it was not of a Temple of Apollo, as the Vulgar suppose.  
I must not forget to tell you, that when one comes near the Averno, he is suddenly assaulted by a noisome Smell; but am not sure that it proceeds from the Lake; for its Waters are fresh, and clear enough, though they incline something to a dark Blue. I tasted them in severa places, and found they had a little sharp tang of the Mineral; notwithstanding which, the Lake abounds with Fish.  
That which they commonly call the Grotto of the Sibyl is hard by. 
The Grotto of the Sibyl.  The chief entrance, as they say, was near to Cumae, about four Miles from Averno, but it is all filled up on that side: We went into the great Grotto by a narrow Passage, pestered with Briars and Thorns, every one with a lighted Torch in his Hand. The Cavern is dug under the Hillocks, without Ornaments, or any thing remarkable, except the place I will presently describe to you. It is about ten Foot broad, and twelve high. After you have gone about two hundred and fifty Paces, without turning, the Grotto hath a square place on the Right, and seventy or eighty Paces farther you find a little Cell of fifteen Foot in length, and eight or nine in breadth: The Roof was formerly painted, and the Walls covered with Mosaic; of which there are still some Remainders: The Earth being fallen some paces beyond the Chamber, the Passage is dammed up, and you can go no further.  
I remember that after I had read the learned Treatise of Mr. Blondel, concerning the pretended Sibyls, and their supposed Sibylline Writings, I easily freed myself from the power of vulgar Prejudices, and was fully persuaded that all was chimerical and supposititious: Whatsoever a considerable number of learned Men had formerly said, or some of those honest Doctors of Antiquity, whom we usually call Fathers. I was afterwards confirmed in this Opinion, by studying this Matter with a competent degree of Application; and therefore you may easily think, 
Some pretend that the Cave of the Sibyl was at Cumae, and they cite the description Justin Martyr makes of it. What he said has some relation to what Virgil speaks. But at the bottom, the opinion of Justin Martyr is no proof; he tells you what he heard said, which signifies nothing.  that I give little credit to what they talk here of this Sibyl's Grotto. Many ancient Authors have spoken of a Sibylla Cumaea, and of a Den to which she retired; and People have imagined that this may agree with it, and have consecrated it to her without any other reason than bare imagination, and without alleging any tolerable Arguments. The Passage of Virgil, Excisum Euboicae, etc. signifies nothing at all: For besides, that in Virgil's time, the Fable of the Sibyl was accounted an old Error; of which that Author spoke only by Tradition: I cannot see that what he said hath any relation to this Cavern.  
Quo lati ducunt aditus centum, ostia centum,  
Unde ruunt totidem voces, etc.  
There is no appearance that this Cave ever had centum aditus, or centum ostia; but why, I pray, must there be a Cave above a League in length, for the lodging a Sibyl? And what Workmen had she to employ in so prodigious a Task? It is also ridiculous to think that she had her Chamber wainscotted with Mosaic; a deep and dark Den, hanged with Bats and Cobwebs, is what more properly belonged to this pretended mad Woman, than Chambers adorned with Painting and Mosaic,  
If you will know what is my Opinion of this Den, I must answer you, That perhaps it was a Passage like the Grotto of Pausilypus, and perhaps also the Painted 
* One may also suppose that there were Baths there for some great Lord.  Chamber was for some Deity, as the Chapel of the same Grotto of Pausilypus is for a certain Image of our Lady. Strabo relates upon the Testimony of Ephorus, an ancient Historian and Geographer of Cumae, That the Cimmerians of Italy (I call them so, that I may not confound them with those of the Bosphorus) did inhabit between Bayae and the Lake of Averno; that they had no other Dwellings than subterraneous Dens, where they hide themselves all Day, and at Night issued out to perpetrate their Robberies and Murders. We will, if you please, attribute the digging of this Cave to them; only the Mosaic agrees little better with them than with the Sibyl. To conclude, though I should tell you, that I neither know the use of this Grotto, nor when it was made, nor who were the Workmen, it would by no means follow that it was the Sibyl's Grotto. Without going further than 
* near to Miremont in Perigort, there is a great and famous Cave, called the Clouseau; of which the Country People tell divers Stories: They say, that there are great Halls, Pictures, and Altars, and are persuaded, that the Pagans there sacrificed to Venus, and the infernal Gods. Moreri.  France or England, I might name you a great many such like Caverns, where a Sibyl never was.  
Departing from this Cave we took a turn to Bayae; this was formerly, 
BAYAE.  as you know the most pleasant and magnificent place in the World. Horace and Martial give it that Character; and Josephus exceeds them both. Martial has some Expressions on this occasion, that are very soft, and yet very strong.  
Littus Beatae Veneris aureum Baiae,  
Baiae superbae donum naturae.  
Ut mille laudem, Flacce, versibus Baias,  
Laudabo digne non satis Baias.  
He calls Venus blessed, because she ruled and triumphed in this delicious Rendezvous of the Roman Nobilty.  Littora quae fuerant castis inimica Puellis, 
said the Poet Propertius. If you would know any thing more particularly touching the Pleasures of Baiae, you need but read the 51st Epistle of Seneca, and what Albinus hath written.  

Tu qui Baianas' venisti liber ad undas  
Aligeri fies praeda cruenta Dei:  
Miscuit his arden's Circe lethale venenum, etc.   

Omne nefas atque omne malum his emersit ab undis, etc.   
The Bay of Bayae is extremely pleasant; the Air admirably sweet; and nothing more charming than the little Hills, which insensibly rise about it. You may there behold the Ruins of many Temples, 
* That which the people call Fruglio, and which many Men take for a Temple, are but the remains of the Baths.  Baths, and Palaces, and some of these Remainders of Antiquity appear even in the Sea it-self. All the neighbourhood of the City was in those times replenished with Houses of Pleasure. At present there are heaps of dismal Ruins, which have changed these formerly charming places, into a mere frightful Solitude.  
Between Bayae and Miseno, in the little Precinct called Bauli, near the Tomb of Agrippina, are to be seen the Remains of the Fishpond of 
‖ Qu. Ort.  Hortensius, Colleague of 
† Q. Cecil.  Metellus. That Senator took extreme delight in keeping Fishes, and used some of them to take their Food from his Hands. I have read somewhere, that one of his Friends, desiring him to give him two Mullets out of his Pond, he told him, he would sooner part with two Mules out of his Litter.  
Near to this, are very great Ruins, commonly called Mercato di Sabbato. 
Mercato di Sabbato.  Some pretend them to be the Remains of a Circus; and those who deny it, know not what to determine.  
On the Sea side are great Remainders of the Countryhouse of Hortensius.  
Near the Fishpond, are the Ruins of a Temple, which, they say, belonged to Diana.  
In the Neighbourhood, they dug up some years ago, a very fine Statue of Venus, twice as big as the Life: It holds a Globe in its Right-hand, and three Oranges in its Left. I have read in Capaccio, who hath given a Description of it, that this Statue was found in the place where formerly was the Temple of Venus Genitrix.  

The Elysian Fields.  From Bayae 'tis but a large Mile to the Elysian Fields: This is a little, but extraordinary delightful Plain, between the Sea and Acheron, 
Lago della Colluccia.  that stinking Marish, which Virgil calls tenebrosa palus. Epirus and Calabria have also their Acheron's; and I am not ingorant, that the Elysian Fields of Boeotia, as well as those of the two Atlantic Isles, or Gorgades Islands, which we place between those of Cape Verd, cannot come in competition with the Elysian Fields, in the Neighbourhood of Bayae.  

The Academy of Cicero.  I might farther speak of the Academy of Cicero, which serves at present for a Stall for Oxen; 
The Baths of Tritoli.  of the various Baths of Tritoli, which the Physicians of Salernum, endeavoured to render useless, because they were grown so themselves, by reason of the Virtues of these Baths; of the Tomb of Agrippina, 
The Tomb of Agrippina.  Mother of Nero, who was stabbed by Anicetus, between Bayae and Miseno; of the Fishpond of 
* Some pretend it was the Work of Lucullus. Piscina mirabi●is. Cento Camerelle.  Agrippa, called Piscina Mirabilis, whose inside is as hard as Marble; of the other Fishpond called Cento Camerelle; and of a great number of Temples, ruinous Palaces, and other Remains of Antiquity: But to say Truth, I had not time to observe all these things, with sufficient attention to make an exact Description of 'em.  
Virgil's Tomb  
Vol ● P ●41   depiction of Virgil's tomb 
I have but one Word more to tell you, of the Tomb of Virgil, 
Tomb of Virgil.  and that of Sannazarius, before I end this long Letter. On the Pausilypus, just at the Entrance of the Grotto which leads to Puzzoli, is to be seen an ancient Monument, made in form of a Pyramid, and half destroyed; this, they say, is the Tomb of Virgil. 
* Alfonso di● Heredia, G. C. Cappaccio, P. Sarnelli, etc.  Some Historians of the latter Ages, have written, that in their Time, there was nine small Columns of Marble in the little Chamber of this Mausolaeum, which supported an 
† John Villani, a Neapolitan Chronologer, saith, this Urn was carried to Mantua. Heredia saith, it was at Genova: Others have written, that the Lombard's took it away: But all this is without Proof or Appearance of Truth. If the Urn were at Mantua, or at Genova, or any where else, they would not fail to show it.  Urn of the same Substance, upon which this Distich was engraven: 
Mantua me genuit; Calabri rapuere; tenet nunc  
Parthenope; cecini, pascua, rura, deuces.   
At present there are neiter Urn nor Columns. Though this Mausolaeum be built of great squares of Stone, yet is it almost totally covered with Bushes and Shrubs, which have taken Root amongst them. There is amongst others, to be observed, a Laurel on the top of it, and the common Opinion is, that tho' they have often cropped, and plucked it up, yet it still grows again; but nothing hath been yet determined of the occult Virtue, which causes this surprising Effect. Virgil passes among these People of Naples, sometimes for a 
* M. Spon observes, that Nostredamus is buried in the Cordeliers at Marseilles, half in the Church, and half without; perhaps because they could not tell whether he was a Wizard or a Prophet.  Conjurer, and sometimes for a Saint. Some Paces from the Tomb, there is a little old Building, which the Gardener, who is Master of the place, told us was the Chapel where Virgil every Day heard Mass. Others pretend that he was a Sorcerer, and affirm, that he pierced the Mountain Pausilypus by Art Magic. And besides, they relate that by the same Art he made the Brazen Horse, of which I have spoken, whose Head is still to be seen at D. Diomedes Caraffa's. They were so much infatuated with this Fancy, that they attributed a Power to this Horse, of curing Horses of all Diseases, and of preserving 'em from all manner of Accidents, which should go about it a certain number of times. In effect; There were formerly a vast number of Pilgrim Horses, which came from the farthest parts of the Kingdom to Naples, and which they led in Procession round this House of Virgil. But at last, a certain Archbishop being displeased with this Extravagance, obtained permission to take away the Horse; out of which he cast the great Bell, which is now in the Cathedral.  
The House which Sannazarius had on the Seaside, at the foot of Pausilypus, being destroyed by the War, he built a Church in the same place; which he dedicated to the most Holy Birth of the Great Mother of God; and his Tomb is now to be seen in one of the Chapels of that Church. It is of White Marble, 
The Tomb of Sannazarius.  and of exquisite Workmanship, by the Hand of 
* And partly by Friar Gianangelo Poggibonzo of Montursolo, a Friar Servite.  Santa-Croce. On it you see the Bust of Sannazarius, crowned with Laurel: The two great Statues which are placed on each side, are Apollo and Minerva; but they choose rather to call 'em David and Judith, that scrupulous Persons may not be offended, to find the Representations of false Gods, in a Christian Church.  
Sannazarius made this Epitaph for himself: 
Actius hic situs est, cineres gaudete sepulti,  
Jam vaga post obitus Umbra dolore vacat.   
His Friends say that he spoke as a Poet: But they assure us, that on other Occasions, he shown, that he had a sense of Religion. Bembus made the Distich which they have put on his Tomb:  
D. O. M.  
Da Sacro Cineri Flores; hic ille Maroni,  
Sincerus Musa, proximus ut Tumulo.  
Vixit Ann. LXII. A. D. M D. XXX.  
James Sannazarius took the Name of Actius Sincerus. at the request of his Friend Joannes Jovianus Pontanus, who had also changed his own Name.  
I know not whether you have read the Epigram which Sannazarius made for the City of Venice. It is said, the Senate of that Republic presented him with a thousand Sequins for every Verse 
† Others writ that he had but Six hundred Crowns of Gold for all. . 
A Sequin is worth about Ten Shillings.  Ariosto would have been contented with less for his whole Orlando: Take the Epigram; 
Viderat Adriacis Venetam Neptunus in undis,  
Stare Urbem, & toti ponere jura Mari.  
Nunc mihi Tarpeias', quantumvis Jupiter arces  
Objice, & illa tui Moenia Martis, ait.  
Si Pelago Tiberim praefers, Urbem aspice utramque  
Illam homines dices, hanc posuisse Deos.   
I must at last conclude my Letter. Please to give my Service to all our good Friends, and believe I shall always remain,  
SIR, Yours, etc. At Naples, Mar. 17. 1688.   
The End of the First Volume.   

A TABLE OF THE PRINCIPAL MATTERS OF THE First Volume.  

A.  
ACademies of Painting at Venice, 171  
Academy of M. de la Vallée at the Hague, 12  
Academy of Cicero, a Stall for Oxen, 340  
Adriatick-Sea married by the Venetians, 200  
Agnano Lake, 317  
Agrippina murdered, 340  
Alexander III. sets his Foot on the Neck of the Emperor Frederick Barbarossa, 161, 166  
Alexander III. instituted the Ceremony of Marrying the Sea at Venice, 200  
Alps, 93  
Almond-Tree of St. Francis, 274  
Altar on which St. Peter celebrated his first Mass, 236  
Ambassadors make their Entries in Gondola's at Venice, 199  
Amphitheatre of Verona, 116  
Amras, 100  
Amsterdam, 21 

Number of Catholics, Lutherans, Anabaptists, and other Sectaries which are at Amsterdam, 24  
Its Burse, or Exchange, 27  
Its Illustrious School, Ibid.    
Ancona, 226  
Andernach, 42  
Andrew King of Hungary, 299  
Angel Gabriel passes through the Window of the Holy House, 235  
Aniello, Thomas, Rebel of Naples, 305  
Antenor's Tomb, 134  
— Bonnet, 163  
Antic Pieces, 91  
Antiquities of Naples, 307  
Ape with Wings, 16  
Apparition of St. Mark, 157  
Apartments principal at the tops of Houses, 108  
Applauses of the Gondoliers of Venice, 193  
Arch of Trajan at Ancona, 227  
Archbishop eaten by Rats, 44  
Ariosto's Epitaph, 215  
Armenians, their Religion, 180  
Arms of Cologn, 39  
Arms of the Electorate of Mentz, 48  
Arms of Ausbourg, 81  
Arms of Venice, 156  
Arms of Naples, 307  
Arnheim, 31  
Arsenal of Nuremberg, 69  
— Of Ingolstadt, 77  
— Of Ausbourg, 83  
— Of Munich, 92  
— Of Venice, 168  
— Another, 199  
— Of Loretto, 245  
Arsenals of France, 77  
Artillery, 74  
〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉, 121  
Ash-Tree of Poland, 131  
Averno Lake, 330  
Aversa, 284  
Augustus, 262  
Ausbourg, 80  
— The Confession, 84   

B.  
Baccharach. 43  
Baiae, 337  
Banditti of Naples, 308  
Barbarossa, Frederick I. 161, 166  
Barbarossa Hariaden, 273  
Basilisks, 122  
Baths of St. German, 318  
Baths of Tritoli, 340  
Chaplets of Beads, 246  
Bears which devour Grapes, 110  
White Bears, 105  
Featherbeds, 31  
Beer ordinary Drink in Bavaria, 93  
Beguines, 25  
Bell makes a Tempest cease, 236  
Bezoar, 78, 95  
Bishops in Germany Sovereign Princes, 82  
A Bishop raised from the Dead, 251  
A Bishop refuses to be made a Cardinal, 302  
Blasphemies, 85  
Boats of Trunks of Trees made hollow, 94  
Boccace, 332  
Boccoldus, or John of Leyden, Head of the Anabaptists, 18  
St. Mark's Body, 156  
Bolsane, 109  
Boniface VIII. 234  
Bonner, 42  
A Book of the first Impression that ever was made, 69  
Bourgomaster of Palemberg, 64  
Bravoes of Venice, 195  
Brennerberg Mountain, 105  
Bread at Venice bad, 185  
An ancient Bridge, 221  
Bridge of Caligula, 324  
Bridge Milvius, 260  
Bridge of Ponte-Molle, 260  
Bridge of Rialto, 182  
Bridges of Venice, 184  
Brixen, 108  
Broglio at Venice, 155  
24 Brothers with their 24 Wives at one Table, 181  
Three Brothers poisoned, 303  
Buffalo's, 248  
Buffoons in the Operas, 193  
Bull Golden, 51  
Burial, 124  
A Man Buried alive, 302   

C.  
Cabins of Trunks of Willows, 94  
Cabinet of Curiosities at Leyden, 15  
— Of M. Viati at Nuremburg, 70  
— Of the Elector Palatine at Newberg, 78  
— Of the Emperor at Amras, 101  
— Of Count Mascardo at Verona, 120  
Cajeta, 277  
Caligula, 324  
Cento Camerelle, 340  
Campania the Happy, 283  
Canals of Holland, 3  
— Of Venice, 154  
Grotta di Cane, 318  
Cannon very great, 69  
Cannon Powder, 74  
Cannon, the Invention, Ibid.  
Cannon, a Piece made whilst a Duke dined, 199  
Canons called Cardinals, 301  
Capua, 282  
Cardinal Barberigo preacheth himself, 210  
Cardinals, their Privileges, 301  
Carnival of Venice, 189  
— The same, 197  
Carob-Tree, 276  
Carrara Franc. a cruel Man, 169  
Santa Casa, 231, 236, 263  
Cascade of Terni, 257  
Castle of Zeist, 30  
Castles on the Rhine, 42  
A Wing'd Cat, 16  
Cathedral of Ravenna, 218  
Catholica, 223  
Cavaletto, a little Fish, 224  
Caves great, 71, 245  
Cellars to keep Wine fresh, 263  
Cavern which leads to the Limbus Patrum, 329  
Celestin, Pope, driven out by Boniface VIII. 234  
Ceremonies of the Greeks, 177  
Cervia, 221  
Cesenate, ibid.  
Chairadin Barbarossa, 273  
Chamber where the Election of the Emperor is made, 50  
— Where Augustus was nursed, 263  
Chamber of Thomas Aquinas, 273  
Changes happened to the Surface of the Earth, 268, 269  
Chapel, a fair one, 137  
— Of the Virgin, 342  
Chariot with Wheels and Sails, 11  
Charles IV. Emperor, 51  
Charles I. King of Naples, caused Conradin's Head to be cut off, 304  
Curious Cherry-Stone, 308  
Church Common to the Lutherans and Papists, 55  
Church common for three Religions, 60  
Church with eight Doors, 75  
St. Justin's Church, 137  
Churches of Naples very fine, 286  
St. Christopher's Pole and Palmtree, 275  
— His Nail, 275  
Chiusa a Fort, 114  
A large Churchyard, 75  
Churchyards rare in Italy, 265  
Cicero's Palace, 276  
Circello, Mountain, 264  
Circumcisions different, 123  
Citta Castellana, 259  
Cities frequent in Holland, 2, 30  
Cities ruined by Beasts, 45  
Citta di la Vigna, 262  
Civenchu, a Bridge in Japan, 183  
St. Clara, 250  
Climates, 87  
Clitumnus, 252  
Clousea, a Cavern in Perigort, 337  
Coaches drawn by Mules at Naples, 309  
Coblentz, 42  
Cocceius, 317  
Coffer, little one furnished with Pistols, 169  
Cologn, 33  
Columns brought by the Devil, 67  
Columns in the State of Venice, 220  
— Of the Temple of Solomon, 279  
Comedies of Venice, 193  
Comedians crushed to pieces, 226  
Companions of Ulysses, 264  
Concord Church of the Palatinate, where there are Three Religions exercised, 60  
Concubines, 188  
Confession of Ausbourg, 84  
Cord or Rope of Judas, 103  
Golden Cord or Halter, 165  
Coronet of the Duke of Venice, 163  
Corona Pudicitiae, 124  
Cork-Trees, 266  
Corselets of Gold, 163  
Coster, Inventor of Printing; first Book which he printed; his Statue, and Inscription at Harlem, 19  
Council of Trent, 112  
— Of Rimini, 223  
Counts Palatine, 43  
Countess of Henneberg brought to Bed of 365 Children, 13  
A large Cross-Bow, 36  
Cross-Bow which discharged 34 Arrows at once, 102  
Pocket Cross-Bow, 169  
Crown of Charles the Great, 67  
Crown which spoke, 292  
Crowns of Cyprus and Candie, 163  
Crown of our Lady of Loretto, 235  
Cruelty, 141, 169, 273  
Crucifix with a Peruke, 39  
— Which approved of the Council of Trent, by bowing its Head, 111  
— Made of an unknown Matter, Ibid.  
Crucifix drawn from a Man crucified, by Michael Angelo, 289  
— Which spoke to Thomas Aquinas, 291  
— Which spoke to Pius V Ibid.  
— Which bowed its Head, seeing a Cannon-Bullet coming, Ibid.  
— Which spoke to a sacrilegious Person, 294  
A long Culverin, 83  
A large Cup of a single Torquoise, 163  
Courtesans at Venice, 87, 88, 89   

D.  
Dantes, 219  
Delf, 10  
Description of Holland, 1, 2, etc.  
— Of the Holy House, 230, etc.  
Devil appears in the shape of a Hog, 305  
Doesberg, 31  
Doge of Venice, 204  
Door of the Wood of a Vine, 218  
Dove: See Pigeon.  
Drunkards, 71  
Drusus, 47  
Duisberg, 32  
Dukes of Aquitain and Normandy, 205  
Duras, Charles de, 299  
Dusseldorp, 33   

E.  
Ehrenbreistein, 43  
Election of the Emperor, 50, 51  
Election Miraculous, 218  
Electorate of Mentz, 48, 49  
Elysian Fields, 340  
Cardinals when first called their Eminencies, 301  
Emperors, how Elected, 50, 51  
Epigram for the City of Venice, 344  
Epitaph of Pope Lucius III. 117  
— Of Titus Livius, 140  
— Of Conradin, 305  
— Of Ariosto, 215  
— Of Sannazarius, 343  
— Of Dante, 219  
— Of a Maid who died just before Marriage, 295  
— Of Robert, King of Naples, 296  
— Of the Marquis of Pescara, 297  
— Of Three Brothers poisoned by their Uncle, 303  
— Several Epitaphs at Naples, 293, etc.  
— Of Joan I. Queen of Naples, 299  
— Of a King of Fez, 300  
— Of Innocent IU. Ibid.  
— Of a Bishop who refused the Cardinal's Hat, 302  
Equites Liberi, 42  
Statues erected in honour of Erasmus, 8  
Etymology of St. Longin, 264  
— Of St. Tiphines', 264  
Eve created by the Virgin Mary, 85   

F.  
Fabian Pope, how elected, 219  
Fano, 224  
Fancies of Men, 107  
Ferrara, 214  
Feasts of the Carnival at Venice, 197  
Feast of the Ascension, 200  
Ficus Indica, 264  
Fisherman makes himself Head of a Commonwealth at Naples, 305  
Way Flaminia, 259, 268.  
Flux and Reflux, 171, 229  
Foetus' of all Ages, 30  
Foligno, 250  
Fondi, 272  
Fountains fine, 66, 67, 246  
Fountains salt, 106  
Fountains of Brass, 258  
Forest of Olive-Trees, 255  
Fossa Nuova, 267  
Foxes White, 105  
Friar Paulo, 212  
Francfort, 50  
Frenchmen feared, 281  
Francis of Assisa called St. Francis, 251  
Frankendal, 59  
Frederick I. called Barbarossa, at the Feet of Pope Alexander III. 161, 166  
Frederick Archduke, 98  
Funeral Pomp, 124   

G.  
Galleasses, 200  
Garigliario, a River, 282  
Gates of Brass at Ravenna, 220  
Geese fall dead flying over a Plain in Yorkshire, 333  
Gelt Persons, 211  
Germans great drinkers, 71  
Holy Ghost in form of a Dove, 218  
Giant, 9  
Giants Bones, 59  
Girls sent to the Convent in their Infancy, 186  
Glass as big as a Bell, 72  
Glasses honoured in Germany, Ibid.  
100 Glasses in a Pepper-Corn, 85  
Glass-Windows rare in Italy, 229  
Glaucus, 264  
Globe used at the Emperor's Coronation, 68  
Goldsmiths Work, 85  
Golf Adriatic frozen, 146  
— Belongs to the Venetians, 200  
— Its Shores, 224  
Gondola of the Wood of a Palmtree turned into Stone, 92  
Gondola's of Venice, 197  
Gondolier's of Venice, Jacks of all Trades, Ibid.  
Gospel of St. Mark, 164  
Government of Venice often changed, 174  
Grates of the Venetian Nuns, 210  
Greeks of Venice, their Ceremonies, Religion, etc. 178  
Greeks excommunicate the Pope, 180  
Grotto of Pausilypus, 316  
— Of the Dog, 318  
— Of Sibylla Cumaea, 335  
Grottoes cool, 263  
Grusse, 104  
Gueret Bastiense, a Giant, 9  
Gueux, 36   

H.  
Habits extraordinary, 86, 101  
Habits of the noble Venetians, 202  
Great Halls, 82, 90, 138, 166  
White Hares, 104  
Hariaden, or Chairaden Barbarossa, King of Algiers, and Admiral to the Turk, 273  
Harlem, 18  
— PRINTING first invented there, 19  
Red Hats, when given to Cardinals, 301  
Hatton II. Archbishop of Mentz, eaten by the Rats, 44, 45  
Hague, 10  
Heidelberg, 62  
Helvia Racina, 247  
Hermeistein, 43  
Herod, 45  
Hieroglyphics, 56, 118  
History of the Rhine, 17  
— Of Milser, 96  
— Of a Lady stabbed, 141  
— Of the Holy House, 230, etc.  
— Of the Bishop of Corsica, 251  
— Of Three Brothers poisoned by their Uncle, 303  
— Of a Brazen Horse, 342  
Holland, 1, 2, 3, etc.  
— Of the Number of its Inhabitants, of its Cities and Towns. Its Cities are of Three different Ranks: Neatness of its Houses, Ships, Stables: Number of Ships in Holland: Inundations, Imposts, 1, 2, 3, etc.  
Honours given to the Duke of Venice, 206  
Horns used for Ornaments in Germany, 75  
Horn of an Ox very large, 102  
Horses in a Garret, 40  
Turkish Horses richly harnessed, 101  
Four fine Horses of Brass, 158  
Sea-Horse, 224  
A Story of a Brazen Horse, 342  
Pilgrim Horses, Ibid.  
Hospital of Four hundred thousand Crowns Yearly Rend at Naples, 287  
Hungarians come to Cologn, 37   

I.  
John Angelicus of Fiesola, a Dominican, refuseth the Archbishopric of Florence, 302  
Joan I. Queen of Naples, 299  
Jesuits slighted and humbled, 177  
Jesuits go to Operas, 216  
Ignorance most gross, 245  
Image of the Republic of Venice, 204  
Image of Jesus Christ which spoke, 291  
— Of the Virgin Mary, which spoke, 292  
Impression first, 69  
Informers rewarded, 170  
Infula, or Crown for the Coronation of the Emperor, 67  
Ingoldstadt, 76  
Innocent IV, 300  
Inquisition of State at Venice, 206  
Inquisition concerning Religion, Ibid.  
Inscription touching Vesuvius, 314  
Inspruck, 97  
Interamna, or Interamnium, 255  
Invention of PRINTING, 19  
— Of Cannon Powder, 74  
Isselburg, 31  
Itru, 275  
Jews of Amsterdam, 23  
— Of Francfort, 53, 113  
— Of Worms, 56  
— Of Nuremberg, 75  
— Of Ausbourg, 82  
— Of Trent, 112  
Jews, why driven out of France, Ibid.  
St. Justina, a fine Church, 137   

K.  
Keiserswaert, 32  
M. Ker kringius, 30  
King of the Romans, 52  
The Three Kings, 36  
Knife of Stone, 123  
Knife taken out of a Man's Stomach, 15   

L.  
Lagunes of Venice, 147  
Lake of Agnano, 317  
— Of Lucrin, 325  
— Of Averno, 329, etc.  
Launce of St. Longin, 68  
Lanuvium, 262  
Lavinium, Ibid.  
Laurel-Tree of Virgil, 341  
Laurel-Trees in the Hedges, 265  
Lent makes Venice desolate, 198  
Leyden: Number of its Scholars; Anatomy-Hall; Cabinet of the Indies, 14, 15  
Liberty of Venice true Licentiousness, 175  
Library at Heidelberg, 63  
— At Nuremberg, 69  
— Of St. Mark, 170  
— Of Count Gambalonga, 222  
Limbo Patrum, 329  
Lirts, a River, 282  
Loggietta, what it is, 168  
London, 22  
St. Longin, 264  
Loretto, 230, 246  
Losdun, 12  
Lucius III. Pope, 117  
Lucrin Lake, 325  
Lucullus' Fishpond, 340  
Luther, 58   

M.  
Macerata, 248  
Machine to light Five hundred Matches all at once, 169  
Maid a Soldier, 9  
— A Drummer, 26  
Maids hired and sold, 188  
A Maid sold, 216  
Marquis de Capra's House of Pleasure, 130  
Malateste's, a Family, 221, 222  
Manheim, 60  
Marbles false, 92  
Mark d' Aviano, a Capuchin, 78, 211  
St. Mark's Body, 156  
— Gospel, 164  
— Apparition, 157  
Markle-Hill, a new Mountain sprung up in England, 328  
Marino, 261  
Marquesses of the State of Venice, 203  
Marchioness of Obizzi, Story of her, 141  
Masquerades at Venice, 195  
Masks or Visors worn at Venice at other times beside the Carnival, 197  
Mausolaeum of Theodoricus, 217 

See Tomb.    
Maximilian I. 97  
Mazaniello, 307  
Maze, 16  
Medals, 91, 101, 103, 283  
Mein River, 49  
Mentz, 47  
Mentz, Archbishop, 48  
Mothers who let to Hire, and sell their Daughters, 188  
Metamorphosis of Scylla, 264  
Milser, his History, 96  
Minturna, a ruin'd City, 281  
Mitre, Trojan, 163  
Maenus, 49  
Monks curious People, 196  
— Ignorant, 212, 249  
Monk, refused the Archbishopric of Florence, 302  
Mola, 276  
Mole of Puzzoli, 325  
Monastery, a great one, 138  
Money of Venice, 208  
Mount Berick, its Notre dame, 130  
Mount Vesuvius, 309  
Fiery Mountain, 105  
Mountain cleft on the Day of the Passion, 278  
Mountain of Markle-Hill, 328  
Monte Circello, 264  
Monte Nuovo arose in a Night, 327  
Monte di Christo, Ibid.  
Mosaic, what it is, 159  
Moses's Rock, 161  
Mule of Thomas Aquinas, 267  
Mules draw Coaches at Naples, 309  
Munich, 88  
— Description of its Palaces, 90  
Mushrooms turned to Stone, 123  
Musick-Houses, 26  
Musicians of Manheim, 61  
— Gelt, 211  
Music Italian, 192  
Myrtles, 265   

N.  
Nail of St. Christopher, 275  
Naples, 284  
Narni, 258  
Neckar River, 62  
Nero lamented, 190  
Newburg, 78  
Noble Venetians, 155, 201, 203  
Nobility, according to the Vulgar Expression, consists only in Opinion, 201  
Notre dame of Newburg, 79, 109  
— Of Mount Berick, 130  
— Of Rain, 222  
— Of Loretto, 231 

See the Word Image,    
Nuremberg, 65  
Sea-Nymph, 20   

O.  
Obizzi, Marchioness, a Lady of extraordinary Virtue, 141  
Olives, 255  
Olive-Trees, 254  
Olive-Trees of Nazareth, 274  
Opera of the Ascension, 110  
Operas of Venice, 193  
Orange-Trees of St. Thomas Aquinas, 274  
Orange-Tree of St. Dominick, Ibid.  
Oratories of the Virgin in the Alps, 108  
Organs very fine, 112  
Ornaments at the Coronation of the Emperor, 67  
Otricoli, 259  
Oxen shod, 106  
Ox which spoke, 292  
Oysters at Venice, not very good, 172   

P.  
P's four of Venice, 184  
Padlocks for Women, 169  
Paduan a good Country, 132  
Milan, Ibid.  
Peasants, Burgomasters, 64  
— Which sell Medals, 283  
Palace of the Elector of Cologn, 42  
— Of the Elector of Mentz, 44  
— Of the Elector of Palatine, 90  
— Of the Elector of Triers, 43  
— Of the Duke of Venice, 165  
— Of Cicero, 276  
Palaces of Italy criticised, 128, 129  
Palatine Counts, 43  
Palemberg, 64  
Palmtree of St. Christopher, 275  
Fra. Paolo, 212  
Paper-Works, 7  
Parthenope, 284  
Passage dangerous, 108  
Mr. Patin, 143  
Pattens of Holland, 3  
Patriarch of Venice, 210  
Partridges White, 105  
Limbo Patrum,  
Pavement rough, 275  
Pausilypus, 316  
Pearl, a singular one, 244  
Peruke miraculous, 39  
Pesaro, 223  
Peter de Luna, 247  
Dr. Peter, 53  
People of Naples very wicked, 308  
Phantom, 240  
Pharaoh, 45  
Philosophy vain, 333  
Physicians of Salerno, 340  
Pictures, 78, 130, 143  
— By Giotto, Titian, and others, 171  
— At Naples, 288, 289 

See the Instructions to a Traveller.    
Pictures criticised, 57  
Pigeon miraculous at Cologn, 38  
— At Ravenna, 218  
200000 Pilgrims at Loretto in one Year, 242  
Pine-Apples of Italy, 220  
Piperno, 265  
Pisca Marina, a Rock, 271  
Piscina Marabilis, 154  
Place of St. Mark, 195  
Plain of Withay in England, 333  
Poignard of Friar Paulo, 212  
Politics of Venice, 172, 190  
Poppiel King of Poland eaten by the Rats, 46  
Poor Noblemen at Venice, 202  
Potenza, a River, 247  
Powder for Cannon, 74  
Present of the Queen of England to the Lady of Loretto, 237  
Priests, and other Ecclesiastical Persons are excluded the Counsel of Venice, 177  
Priests who have Concubines, 189  
— Ignorants, 210  
— Gelded, 211  
Priapus, vegetable, 16  
Primicerio of Venice, 157  
Print of the Feet of a Horse, 67  
Print of the Feet if a Mule, 267  
Procession of the Hungarians, 37  
Fine Prospects, 34, 93, 155, 249, 286, 290  
A fine Prospect, 23  
Psalftz, 43  
Puteolanum Spiraculum, 320  
Puzzoli, 322   

Q.  
Qui va li of Milan, 133   

R.  
Rarities Natural, 15 

See Cabinets of Curiosities.    
Rats which eat a King, and an Archbishop, 45  
Ravenna, 216  
Recanatis, 247  
Religious Women, or Nuns of Venice, 211  
Religion of the Greeks, 177, etc.  
— Of the Armenians, 176, 180  
Relics curious, 290  
Republic of St. Marin, 175, 223  
Rhine River, 16, 46  
Rialto Bridge, 182  
Riches of the Holy House, 243  
Ridottis of Venice, 194  
Rimini, 221  
Ring of St. Mark, 157  
Robert of Naples, 296  
Rock of the Emperor Maximilian I. 97  
Rock of Moses, 161  
Another Rock, 97  
Rock softened, 279  
Rodomontades, 128  
Roof covered with Gold, 98  
Rovigo, 214  
Rotterdam, 6  
Roveredo, 114  
Rubicon, 221   

S.  
Sacrificing Utensils, 121  
Salernum, Physicians of, 340  
Salmon, 8  
Sannazarius, 342, etc.  
Savii grandi, 202  
Sceptre of the Emperor, 68  
Scholars of Milan, 133  
Scrobes Charoneae, 320  
Scylla Metamorphosed, 264  
Sea retreated from Ravenna, 216  
— From Rimini, 222  
Senegallia, 225  
Serpents Skin with Arabic Characters naturally figured, 16  
Serpent fifteen Foot long, taken near Ulm, 101  
Setia, 264  
Shirt made of Guts, 15  
Miraculous Shivering, 245  
Sibyls, 335  
St. Simonin, a Child martyred by the Jews, 112  
Sixtus V undertook to extirpate the Banditti out of St. Peter's Patrimony, 307  
Sleeves of the Noble Venetians, 202  
Solfatara Mountain, 320  
Somma Mountain, 254  
Sorcerer, 67  
Soucelle, a Tree, 275  
Spaccata, a Mountain cloven in two on the Day of our Saviour's Passion, 282  
A Spring from whence two Rivers flow, 15  
Spring in the Winter, 109, 250, 254  
Spiraculum Puteolanum, 320  
Spoils of Pavia, 220  
Spoletta, 253  
Starling with great Ears, 16  
Statue of Erasmus, 8  
Statues, many of Brass at Inspruck, 100  
— Of Adam and Eve, 158  
— Greek one's, 171  
— Animated, 204  
— Of Alexander VII. 220  
— Of Paul V. 222  
— Of Urban VIII. 224, 263  
— Of Pope's represented sitting, Ibid  
— Of God's sweeting, 292  
— Of Jupiter, who thundered with Laughter, Ibid.  
Steinbokt, an Animal in the Alps, 105  
Bezoar-Stone, 95  
Miraculous Stones, 251  
Stone Knife, 123  
The Devil's Stone, 37  
Stoves of Germany, 114  
Prodigious Strength, 100, 103  
Superstition Popular, 263  
Susanna, 91  
Sweetness out of Bitterness, 255  
Sword used at the Emperor's Coronation, 68   

T.  
Tobacco, 30, 65  
Tent of the Grand Visier, 92  
Terracina, 271  
Terni, 255  
Theatines, 288  
St. Theodore neglected at Venice, 157  
Thief hanged with a Golden Halter, 165  
Treacle, 53  
Thomas Aniello, 305  
St. Thomas Aquinas, 267, 274  
Thomas Schuweiker wrote with his Foot, 59  
Thorns without Pricks, 280  
Treasury of Munich, 91  
— Of St. Mark, 162  
— Of Loretto, 243  
Tiber, 259  
Titus Livius, 139  
Tolentino, 248  
Tomb of St. Ursula, 38  
— Of a Daughter of a Duke of Brabant, Ibid.  
— Of the Electors of Mentz, 49  
— Of Drusus, 47  
— Of the Counts Palatines, 63  
— Of the Emperor Lovis IU. 89  
— Of Maximilian I. 100  
— Of the Scaligers, 120  
— Of Antenor, 134  
— Of Lupatus, 136  
— Of Titus Livius, 139  
— Of Ariosto, 215  
— Of Theodoricus, 217  
— Of Placidia Galla, 219  
— Of Valentinian and Honorius, Ibid.  
— Of the Poet Dante, Ibid.  
— Of Gregory XII. 247  
— Of Charles of Bourbon, Constable of France, 278  
— Of Munatius Plancus, Ibid.  
Tombs, many at Naples, 293, etc.  
Tomb of Agrippina, 340  
— Of Virgil, 341  
— Of Sannazarius, 343  
Torrents of Sulphur kill the Birds that fly over Averno, 332  
Tower gilded, 155  
Tower of Orlando, 278  
Trachyna, 271  
Treaty between the Elector of Brandenburg, and the Duke of Newburg, concerning the free exercise of the Protestant and Roman Religions, 31  
A Tree Two thousand Years old, 274  
Trent, 110  
Three Taverns, or the ThreeShops, 264  
Cunning Trick of the Priests of Loretto, 244  
Trunks of Vines very great, 218  
Troop of Beggars, 95  
A monstrous Tun, 62   

V.  
Valmanara, Garden of the Count of that Name, 131  
Vanity of Vanities, 209  
Velino, a River which throws it-self down near Terni, 256  
Velitri, 262  
Venice, 147  
— Often fallen from its Constitution, 173  
Vessels of the Virgin Mary, 235  
Verdure perpetual, 254  
Verona, 115  
— Original of a Procession made there every Year, 124  
Verses on the Conception of the Prince of Wales, 238  
Virtue sacrificed, 141  
Vesuvius, 309  
Via Flaminia, 259, 268  
Via Appia, 268  
Viae Consulares, 270  
Vicenza, 127  
Vines, 115, 218  
Villa Marii, 261  
Virgil of the Vatican, 163  
Virgil's Tomb, 341  
Virgil sometimes a Saint, sometimes a Witch, 342  
Virgin Mary created Eve, 85  
11000 Virgins, 38  
Union of Utrecht, 29  
University of Utrecht, Ibid.  
— Of Duisbourg, 32  
— Of Mentz, 49  
— Of Heidelberg, 63  
— Of Dillingen, 82  
— Of Ferrara, 215  
Voyages pleasant, 144  
Volturno River, 282  
St. Ursula, 38, 227  
Utensils of Sacrifices, 121  
Utrecht, 29   

W.  
Prince of Wales' Conception, and Verses on that Occasion, 237, 238, 239  
Deep Wells, 67  
Wesel, 31  
Wiligise Elector of Mentz, and Son of a Cart-Wright, 48  
Wimpsen, 64  
Windgun, 70  
Wine of Venice, 185  
Wine cheap, 65  
Winsheim, 64  
Withay Plain in Yorkshire, 333  
A Woman raised from the Dead, 38  
A Woman brought to Bed of Six Boys, 9  
— Of 365 Children, 12, 13  
— Of 36 Children, 14  
A Woman in Mourning, 86  
A Virtuous Woman, 141  
Women common, 188  
— Enslaved, 186  
— Oddly clothed, 47  
— Padlocked, 169  
Curious Works in Paper, 7  
— In Ivory, 85  
Worms, 55  
Woorburg, 10  
Curious Writing, 59   

Z.  
Zeist, a fine House of the Count Nassaw Odyck, 30   
The End of the Table of the First Volume.   

A New Voyage TO ITALY, With a Description of the Chief Towns, Churches, Tombs, Libraries, Palaces, Statues, and Antiquities of that Country.  
Together with Useful INSTRUCTIONS for those who shall Travel thither.  
By MAXIMILIAN MISSON, Gent.  
Done into English, and adorned with FIGURES.  
Vol. II.  
LONDON: Printed for R. Bentley, at the Posthouse in Russel street, Covent-Garden; T. Goodwin, at the Queen's Head; and M. Wotton, at the Three Daggers in Fleetstreet; and S. Manship, at the Ship in Cornhill, 1695.   

A NEW VOYAGE TO ITALY. To D. W.  
VOL. II.  

LETTER XXIII.  
I Cannot express the Pleasure with which I read your long Letter, that part of it especially which assures me that my Letters have given you some Satisfaction.  
I do not intent to trouble you with Reflections on the present Occurrences in your Country, of which you have given me an Account: For besides, that such a Design would engage me into long and useless Digressions, I am persuaded, that an Answer to those new Questions which you propose concerning Venice, will be more acceptable to you. I will endeavour then to answer them succinctly, and in the same order in which you have ranked them; and afterwards proceed to entertain you with my Observations concerning Rome.  
I. Your Venetian Gentleman may affirm as positively as he pleases, That Venice contains Two hundred and fifty thousand Souls; but you must not imagine, that because he is a Citizen of Venice, he must be a competent Judge of the number of its Inhabitants; that is a thing which neither his Eyes nor mine can ever be able to determine, nor can it be known without a very diligent and nice Enquiry: And therefore I am still of the opinion, that this Controversy ought to be decided by the Authority of those who have grounded their Calculations on a careful and particular Examination. I told you, that the Computation which I follow, comprehends the Inhabitants of la Giudeca, for I look upon that Island as a part of the City of Venice; but I do not include the Isle of Murana. In the mean time you must give me leave to tell you, that you carry the point too far, when you pretend, that 'tis impossible to make a judgement of the number of the Inhabitants of a great City; for, if you consider what has been done by Sir William Petty, you will be convinced, that there are rational methods to make such a computation, without any considerable Error.  
II. The two great Columns of Granite, which are near the Sea, at the end of the place called the Broglio, were brought from 
* 
They might have been brought from Egypt to Constantinople, and from thence to Venice.  
It was one Nic. Baratier who undertook to fix them in the place where they still remain. He asked no other Recompense, but that he might have leave to set up a Privileged Gaming-house between the two Columns; which was granted him.   Egypt, or, as some say, from Constantinople. The Lion of St. Mark holding an open Book, with the Inscription of Pax tibi, Marce, etc. is upon one of these Columns; and those are the Arms of Venice. The Statue of S. Theodore is on the other Pillar. I think I told you, that 'tis the Custom of the Signiory to erect such Columns in all the Cities under its Dominion.  
Your Friend has misinformed you, who told you, that the three great Banners, which on Festival days are set up on the Brazen Pedestals over against S. Mark's Church, represent the State of Venice and the two Kingdoms of Cyprus and Candia. This, I confess, is the generally-received Opinion, but 'tis as false as common; for the Republic's Arms are to be seen, without the least difference, on all the three Banners; nor is there any Design to represent either Cyprus or Candia, which are not so much as named. I cannot comprehend the meaning of those who have assured you, that the Republic has no Coat of Arms, and that the abovementioned Lion is too highly respected at Venice to be put in a Scutcheon. That same Lion is to be seen in all those places where the Arms of the State ought to be: And it is no less ridiculous to say, that it serves instead of Arms, but really is no such thing, than it would be to pretend that the Venetians wear no Shirts, but that they make use of certain pieces of Linen, that are cut and sewed exactly like our Shirts, which only serve them instead of Shirts. It cannot be reasonably supposed, that the Respect they have for their Lion should hinder them from using it for their Arms, since we commonly see Saints and Crucifixes applied to the same use. And you know the story of a Venetian Ambassador, who told an Emperor that asked him, in what part of the World the Republic had found those winged Lions which are to be seen in its Coat of Arms, That he believed they found them in a certain Country where all the 
* Alluding to the Arms of the Empire.  Eagles have two Heads. Moreover, the Lion of St. Mark derives its original from Ezekiel's Vision 
† See Vol. 1. , which I have already mentioned in another place, and not, as you have been informed, from a pretended Metamorphosis of St. Mark, who was turned to a Lion, to extinguish the incestuous Love of his Sister.  
III. I remember I told you, that the Air of Venice is good; but I must confess that 'tis very bad in the Lagunas. And even I am credibly informed, that the Inhabitants of the little Isles are forced to leave their Habitations during the great Heats.  
IU. 'Tis so universally known, that the Doge of Venice continues for Life, whereas the Doge of Genova is changed every two years, that I thought it needless to inform you of a thing which I presumed you knew as well as I.  
The Revenue of the Doge of Venice amounts to near 
* Near Forty thousand Livres Tournois.  Three thousand Pounds Sterl. according to my best information. The present Doge is not married. The Dogesses are excluded from having any share in those shadows of Honour which are paid to their Husbands, which is an Effect of the Frugality of the Government; and indeed, the Republic has no need of two Mock-soveraigns'.  
V In my former Letters I said nothing, or very little, concerning the Libertinism and Debauchery that reigns in the Monasteries, because I am not particularly acquainted with the Fashions of those places. I can only tell you what is generally known and acknowledged, That the Nuns receive Persons in Masquerade at the Grate; that they put themselves into all manner of Disguises, that they go incognito to see Plays, and elsewhere; that they join in public Feasts, and have Tables made for that purpose, of which one half is within and the other without the Grate; that they are concerned in a thousand Intrigues, and are often the Principal Actors in them. I leave you to judge of their private Employments, for I am resolved not to pry into them. As for the bouncing Brothers of the Cowle, they are such horrible Debauchees, that 'tis impossible to fancy any Excess of which they are not guilty.  
VI I am not at all surprised at your Friend's Exclamations against the Account that I gave you of the Venetian Government, and particularly against the Sovereignty of the ancient Doges; but let him strut and swagger as he pleases, 'tis folly either to deny or strive to conceal a thing which is known to all the World.  
VII. According to the Estimate which some judicious and well informed Persons have made of the Revenues of this Republic, it has been computed, that reckoning one year with another, the total sum of all their Revenues, comprehending also the sale of Offices, and of Nobility, Confiscation of Estates, and all other casual Profits, amounts to no more than Six millions of Crowns. I will not undertake to warrant the exactness of this Calculation, but when you propose a Question, you must content yourself with such an Answer as I am able to return.  
VIII. There are some Jews as Venice who drive a great Trade, especially the Portugese, who are very rich here, as well as at Amsterdam and elsewhere. That part of the City which is allotted to them is called i'll Ghetto, or the Jewry. They wear Hats covered with Scarlet, doubled and edged with Black; but the poorer sort use waxed Linen instead of Cloth.  
IX. The number of those Noblemen who are capacitated by their Age to be Members of the Great Council, may, as I am informed, amount to about One thousand and Three hundred; but almost one half of them reside in other places, being employed either in Civil and Military Offices, or on Embassies to foreign States; so that the Great Council is usually composed of Six or Seven hundred Persons at most: Yet even these are too many, and 'tis partly the numerousness of this Assembly that has given occasion to this Proverb concerning Venice, Troppo Teste, troppo Feste, troppo Tempeste; Too many Heads, too many Festivals, and too many Tempests. Nor are the two last parts of this Apophthegm less true than the first; for the number of Festivals in Venice exceeds those that are observed in France by above a third part; and I am assured that Storms happen very frequently here in the Summer.  
X. 
The Great Council was established in the Year 1289. and all the Noblemen were registered in that List.  The Golden Book which you mention is a bare Catalogue of Names, in which all the Sons of the Noblemen are enroled as soon as they are born. All the Brothers have an equal Title to Nobility, and enjoy the same Privileges.  
Before I leave this Head, I must answer the Objection that was proposed to you against the account that I gave you of the Venetian Noblemen, in which I represented them as very haughty and almost inaccessible persons. Justice obliges us to give a reasonable Interpretation to every thing, and 'tis a ridiculous Victory that is obtained over imaginary Foes. 'Tis certain, that the Noblemen of Venice are extremely conceited of their Nobility; nor will the Politics of that Country permit them to be very affable. 'Tis not an easy matter for a Stranger, whose Quality distinguishes him from the Vulgar, to get access to them at their Houses, for they are only willing to be seen at the Broglio: Besides, tho' they cannot be accused of sparingness in their Salutations, yet they usually treat the Citizens with a great deal of coldness, and appear always very reserved in their company: Neither are they wont to give and receive Visits, even among themselves. Thus you see that the Character that I gave of them was not so injurious to them as some persons would have persuaded you; for all these are shrewd signs that they do not abound in Courtesy: Nevertheless it must be acknowledged, that in private, when their Conveniency permits them, or at least when their Interest obliges them, they can be as kind and civil as any Men whatsoever. Neither is it altogether impossible for a Stranger to obtain the Favour of a familiar Conversation with them, especially when both the Nobleman and the Foreigner are persons of no great note. Moreover, I would not have you imagine that I designed only to break a Jest when I told you that the great Sleeve does sometimes serve instead of a Basket, when a Nobleman goes to the Market; for I once saw a large Salad, and at another time a delicate Tail of a Cod thus honourably lodged. I know not whether I did not forget to tell you, that there are Two or Three hundred poor 
* They are called Barnabotes from the name of the place where they live, which is in a remote corner of the City, where the Houses are to be let at low rates.  Barnabotes, who beg about the Streets, and instead of being at the charge of a Penny for the carriage of their small Provisions, would willingly turn Porters themselves, and earn a Penny by carrying the Provisions of others. These poor Gentlemen serve for a Foil to the rich Noblemen.  
It is true, that in the Summer the Noblemen take away the Furs from that which you call the Vest, and we in French lafoy Robe; but the Edges, and that part which is turned up, remain still furred.  
XI. It was not Ignorance of your Inclination, or rather Love to Painting, that made me guilty of that Negligence with which you upbraid me, in giving you so imperfect an account of those curious Pieces that are to be seen at Venice; however, in obedience to your desire, I shall endeavour in some measure to supply that Defect, by adding some new Observations, tho' I'm afraid my Memory will not furnish me with many.  
There were formerly in the Hall of the Great Council some Pictures, done by Gentilis Bellini, and John his Brother, which excelled the best Pieces of that 
* Gentilis Bellini died in the Year 1501, being 80 years old. And John died 1512, aged 9● Years.  Age; but they were all lost in the Fire, which consumed almost the whole Palace in the year 1577. The same 
† They represent the Wars of Alexander III. with Frederick Barbarossa.  Histories were copied five years after, by Frederick Zucchero, and set up again in the same order in which they still remain.  
Pordenone's Pictures in Fresco, in the Cloister of St. Stephen, are very much esteemed; as are likewise his S. Sebastian, and S. Roch, at S. John de Rialto. Pordenone was an excellent Painter; his Designs are esteemed very judicious, and his Colours admirably well laid. He emulated Titian.  
The St. Peter Martyr of Titian is reputed to be one of the finest Pictures that ever was made, but it gins to be much defaced. The best Judges are charmed with this Piece, tho' it has lost almost all that lustre which is wont to ravish an unskilful Eye. They think they can never enough admire the Beauty and Richness of the Colours, the judicious Disposition of the Lights, the Roundness of the Figures, the Passion and Life that is observed in the Face, and that strength of Expression which reigns through the whole piece. There are several other Pictures by the same hand in the Churches, St. Mark's Palace, the Library, Convents, and Fraternities.  
There are also some Pieces by Schiavoni, in the Library, which have been frequently taken for Titian's: Horace Vecelli his Son has almost equalled him on some occasions; and the Picture in the Hall of the Great Council, which represents the Battle fought by the Romans against the Troops of Frederick, is the Work of Horace, tho' it be commonly ascribed to his Father.  
The Picture of the Marriage at Cana, by Paul Veronese, in the Refectory of the Benedictine Monks in the Isle of S. George, is esteemed to be the Masterpiece of that Painter, who, you know, is famous for the same Excellencies that we admire in Titian: His Works are particularly remarkable for the beautiful disposition of the Figures, judicious Choice of Colours, a great Genius, vast Ideas, the greatest Easiness imaginable, and the most charming Variety. The Piece that I mentioned is Two and thirty Foot broad, and contains a Hundred and twenty five Figures.  
In the Church of S. Sebastian, the Feast of Simon the Leper is one of the most celebrated Pieces of the same Artist. There are also three other Pictures, by the same Hand, in the Arch of S. Mark's Library, which, if my Memory do not deceive me, represent Geometry, Arithmetic, and Glory acquired by Learning.  
The Paradise, by Tintoret, in the Hall of the Great Council, is a famous Piece. It was said of Tintoret, That he united the Designs of Michael Angelo with the Colours of Titian; which certainly was a very noble Character. Besides, he had the most fruitful Invention, and the quickest Hand of all the Artists of that Age. A Painter who was with me in the Fraternity, or (as they call it at Venice) the School of S. Roch, made me observe with admiration that rare Picture which Tintoret finished almost in a moment, while Paul Veronese, Salviati, and Frederick Zucchero his Competitors in the same Work, were still busy on the rough Draught, which was to be presented to those who designed to employ them. I have seen several other Pieces by the same Hand in the abovementioned School, S. Maria dell' Orto, S. Mark's School, and other places.  
There are some of Bassani's Works at S. Marry major: Schiavoni's Pictures in the Library are, I think, Emblems of Valour, Sovereignty, and Sanctity.  
XII. I told you, That the Gondola's are covered with black; and I think I also informed you, That none here are allowed to give Liveries to their Servants, which may be reckoned among the Doge's peculiar Privileges. 'Tis true, the Nobleman's Wives, during the first, and, I suppose, also the second year of their Marriage, are permitted to please their own Fancy in the choice of Colours for the Habits of their Gondeliers: This little Favour is granted them at the same time that they are suffered to adorn themselves with their Jewels; but as soon as the limited time is expired, this Mark of distinction ceases, and they are never suffered to resume their Jewels, unless on some high Festivals, and during the Carnaval. The rich Courtesans choose rather to pay the Fine, than submit to so rigorous a Law.  
No Man that is not in love with Contradiction will dare to affirm, That the Venetian Ladies enjoy greater Liberty than those of England or France; and 'tis impossible to allege the least shadow of a Reason in confirmation of such a ridiculous Assertion. The Ladies of Venice are sometimes permitted, during the Carnaval, to walk abroad in disguise, to go to see a Play or an Opera, or perhaps to visit the Fairs or Gaming-houses: But, what does all this Liberty signify? Their Vizards and Disguises are more prejudicial than advantageous to them, which serve only to hid what they would willingly show, and to confound them with the worthless and ignoble Crowd. Besides, this time of Diversion is very short lived: And after. all, how can they be capable of enjoying Pleasure, while they remember a thing that they ought never to forget, that 'tis impossible for them to stir a Foot without the attendance of those cursed Spies which are more insupportable to them than the heaviest Chains; not to mention their Husbands? What is all this pretended Liberty, but a continuation of that Confinement which they are forced to undergo for ten or eleven months in the year? And is not their Condition more tolerable, when they are suffered to walk without disturbance from one end of their Chamber to the other? I will not aggravate their Slavery by the opposition of that entire Liberty which is enjoyed by our English and French Ladies, their Walks, Visits, Meetings, and all the other Divertisements which are allowed to them without the least constraint or limitation of Time; for it would be altogether needless to insist on this Parallel.  
XIII. The young Noblemen are suffered to gratify their own Fancies in the splendour of their Equipages; nor do they usually spare any cost in Gold or Silver Stuffs, Laces, Plumes of Feathers, Purfling, and Embroideries of all colours. At fifteen years of age they put on the Gown, tho' they are not permitted to enter the Council before five and twenty. On the Continent they wear what Habits they please, and enjoy a full and uncontrolled liberty; for the Jurisdiction of the Tribunal that regulates the Habits reaches not beyond the Lagunas.  
XIV. When we visited the Treasury, we heard no mention of St. Mark's Thumb, neither did our Guides acquaint us, that this Saint was dismembered to prevent his being chosen Priest. The truth is, we never asked them about it, and perhaps they forgot to speak of it. They have a Tradition, that his Ring was unfortunately lost, not long after he gave it, but they assured me that it was since recovered. The Story will perhaps divert you, which is briefly thus:  
In the year 1339. the Sea being furiously agitated, three Men accosted a Gondolier, who was endeavourieg to preserve his Boat from the extraordinary Violence of the Waves; they constrained him to carry them two miles from thence, near to a place called The Lido: when they arrived there, they found a Shipful of Devils, who were raising a Tempest by their Hellish sorceries; but as soon as these three Men had chid the Fiends the Storm ceased. The first of the three made the Gondolier carry him to the Church of S. Nicholas, the second to that of S. George, and the third to that of S. Mark. This last, instead of paying the Boat-man, gave him a Ring, with orders to carry it to the Senate, who, he assured him, would not fail to satisfy him for his pains. And at the same time he informed the Gondolier, that he that went ashore at St. Nicholas' was Mr. St. Nicholas himself, that the second was St. George, and that he himself was St. Mark, in proper Person. The Gondolier, full of astonishment at so many Wonders, related the whole story to the Senate, who not only believed him, but gave him a bountiful Reward.  
XV. Protestants are suffered to be interred in the Churches, if the Parents of the deceased desire that Privilege: The reason is, because it is not known that there are any Protestants at Venice; for all those that are neither Jews, Greeks, nor Armenians are reputed to be roman-catholics.  
XVI. Your Admirer of the Venetian Palaces mistakes the state of the Question. I do not deny that there are stately Buildings in that City, which deserve to be called Palaces; and you may remember that I mentioned some of 'em; but every ti●● 〈…〉 what I told you in general concerning the Palaces of Italy is most certainly true; and all his Objections against it amount to no more than a bare wrangling about Words: besides, you ought not to depend on his Opinion, since you tell me, that he has no skill in Architecture. Neither ought you to rely on the account he gives you of the Machines' of the Venetian Operas, since he never saw any others. And I can assure you, that he errs prodigiously, when he compares the Neatness of Venice to that of Holland.  
XVII. You do well not to take that part of the account which I gave you of this City, according to the utmost rigour of the literal sense of the Words, in which I assured you that there is a passage by Water to all the Houses in Venice: There may perhaps be five or six in a thousand that cannot be approached but by Land; tho' I would not be obliged to make good that number: But your young Traveller speaks at random, when he affirms so positively, that there is not a Canal within five hundred paces of the House where he lodged; and, that there are twenty such places in the City: for, by his leave, this is a monstrous Absurdity. How many spaces, at this rate, would there be in Venice, of a mile in diameter? You may easily judge, by the Platform of that City which I send to you, of the truth of my Assertion, in which I still persist, and which is grounded on undoubted Evidence.  

ROME called The Holy.  The City of Rome has been often described by Persons who had all the Opportunities and Qualifications that were necessary to fit them for so vast an Undertaking. I will not pretend to give you a particular account of all that I observed in it, but only endeavour to represent to you a general Idea of that famous City, and afterwards proceed to communicate to you some particular Observations: I will entertain you with nothing but what is either new or little known, unless when I am obliged to resolve your Doubts, or answer your Questions. We see every day an infinite number of things which have no coherence, nor any other relation than that of the Neighbourhood of the Places where we find them; so that you must not expect any methodical connexion or conformity of Matter in those Observations which I promised to impart to you.  
You are not ignorant that Rome was known by the name of Septicollis, or the City on Seven Hills: Before the Reign of Servius Tullius it had no more; but since that time it has been much enlarged, and at present contains 
* Monte Capitolino, Palatino, Aventino, Celio, Esquilino, Viminale, Quirinale or Monte Cavallo, Janiculo Pincio, Vaticano, Citorio, and Giordano.  Twelve: You must not imagine that these Hills are so many considerable Mountains, they are only small Hillocks, the ascent to which is scarce sensible.  
Vopiseus, who lived under the Reign of Dioclesian, asserts positively, That the Walls with which Rome was enclosed by Aurelian were fifty miles in compass. But this is either not well expressed, or misunderstood, or 'tis absolutely false; for it has been clearly demonstrated, that the present Walls are in a great measure the same which Aurelian caused to be erected, and yet they are not above thirteen little miles about, which is the largest compass that ever Rome had. 'Tis true indeed, the Suburbs extended very far on all sides, and made the City in a manner infinite.  
There is not above a third part of that extent which is comprehended within the Walls, inhabited at present; for the other two thirds on the East and South side are nothing but Gardens and Ruins: so that if, during the splendour of ancient Rome, Propertius had reason to say, 
Hoc quodcunq, vides, Hospes, quam maxima Roma est  
Ante Phrygem Aeneam, Collis & Herba fuit.  
Atque ubi navali stant Sacra Palatia Phoebo;  
Evand●i profugae procubuere Boves.  We may now use the words of another Poet concerning the present condition of that City, 
Haec, dum viva, sibi septem circumdedit Arces;  
Mortua nunc, septem contegitur Tumulis.   
The Houses are for the most part built of Brick, plastered and whited over on the outside. The Roofs are ridged, but the Angle at the top is very obtuse, and many of them are also fashioned, as we say in France, à la Mansarde. Neither the Houses nor Streets are equally beautiful, and the Pavements are neither large nor neat. I shall have occasion hereafter to speak of some of the most remarkable Buildings.  
Which way soever you come to Rome, you still perceive St. Peter's Dome, which appears above all the Spires and the tops of the highest Structures in the City.  
The Tiber makes a little 
* Insula Tiberina olim excrevisse dicitur ex segetibus Tarquinii superbi, in alv●um fluvii conjectis. J.J. Boiss. See Tit. Livius.  Island here, and the course of that River is from North to South. That part of the City which stands on its right Bank, is not above a fifth or sixth part of the other; it is called Trastevera.  
The first and general Prospect of Rome does not present any surprising Beauties to the Eye of the Beholder, especially if he has already seen several other famous Cities; but the longer he stays in it 
† Grata Roma tam sapientibus quam insipientibus: sine amore esse nullo modo potest. Bern. Sacca. , he will still make new discoveries of things, that deserve to be considered with attention. 'Tis impossible to walk fifty paces in or about that City without observing some Remainders of its ancient Grandeur. You know that haughty Mistress of the Universe was wont to enrich herself with the best Spoils of her conquered Provinces. Porphyries, Granites, and the finest Oriental Marble, were more common there than Bricks, or the Stones that were dug out of the neighbouring Quarries. 
* Statuas primum Thusci invenisse referuntur, quas amplexa posteritas paene parem populum Urbi dedit, quam Natura procreavit. Cassiodor.  The Statues of Rome have been called a Great Nation; and we may add not unfitly, that the Colossuses were the Giants. This proud City was adorned with Temples, Palaces, Theatres, Representations of Sea fights, Triumphal Arches, Baths, Cirques, Columns, Fountains, Aqueducts, Obelisks, Mausoleums, and other magnificent Structures; but now all these things may be truly said to be buried in their own Ruins, tho' these Ruins, as dismal as they are, seem still to retain a great deal of their ancient splendour.  
The Country about Rome, for ten or twelve miles, ill peopled, extremely unhealthful, and even altogether barren in some places: It is generally flat, but very uneven.  
I could not make an exact estimate of the number of the Inhabitants of this famous City; 
Lampridius tells us, that Heliogabalus made a collection of the Cobwebs in Rome, which weighed Ten thousand pound. From which passage some would draw Inferences to confirm the Computations of the prodigious number of the Inhabitants of that City; but this is a very lame way of reasoning.  'Tis generally believed, that it contains Two hundred thousand Souls, but in such cases there are always various Opinions; it is even very difficult to reconcile the passages of ancient Authors concerning the numbering of the People of Rome under the Reign of Augustus; some tell us of Three millions One thousand and Thirty seven, and others have raised the number to Four or Five millions; but these Calculations do not at all agree with the account of Suetonius, who computes only One million and Six hundred thousand, or a few more, under Tiberius, who was the immediate Successor of Augustus; and, how can it be supposed with the least shadow of Reason, that such a prodigious alteration could happen within the narrow space of a few years? Some Critics will perhaps endeavour to elude the force of so pressing an Argument, by botching the Text of Suetonius, or, at least, by starting new Difficulties concerning it; but all their studied subtleties will never amount to a certain decision of the Controversy. This brings to my mind a passage in 
* Wernerus Roolwinck.  Fasciculus temporum, where the Author, speaking of the Reign of Augustus, has these words; Roma in flore, & numerati sunt ejus cives & descripti nonagesies Tricentena millia, & Octoginta millia. The number of the Citizens of Rome amounted to Seven and twenty millions and Eighty Thousand: A jolly company indeed! but perhaps he meant all those who had a right to the Privileges of Roman Citizens, throughout the whole extent of the Empire.  
Two days after our return from Naples, we had the fortune to see a pleasant Ceremony, which I cannot forbear relating to you: You must know that a Club of sixty Gentlemen did voluntarily agree to raise a sufficient Fund to make either Wives or Nuns of Three hundred and fifty Maidens every year. Now the Ceremony is performed thus: On the Festival of the Annunciation, the Pope and the sacred College meet at the Minerva, where the Pope says a high Mass, or at least some Cardinal is appointed to officiate in his absence, and all the Girls confess, and receive the Sacrament, being clothed in white Serge, and muffled up, like Ghosts, in a great piece of Cloth which covers their Head, leaving only a small passage for their sight, and oftentimes only a little peephole for one Eye; then they enter by two and two into the Choir where all the Cardinals are assembled, and prostrate themselves at the Feet of the Pope, or of the Cardinal who officiates for him, at whose side stands a certain Officer appointed for that purpose, with a Basin full of little white Bags in his Hand, each of which contains either a Bill of Fifty Crowns for those Maidens who choose Marriage, 
Pope Clement iv gave a Hundred Crowns in Marriage with his eldest Daughter, and only Ten Crowns to her that went into a Nunnery. Plat.  or a Bill of a Hundred Crowns for such of them as are willing to enter into a Nunnery. Each Maiden having humbly declared her Choice, receives her Bag hanging by a little String, and having kissed it, makes a low Courtesy, and files off, to make room for the rest. The future Nuns are distinguished by a Garland of Flowers, which crowns their Virginity, and they are ranked in the most honourable place at the Procession. Of all the Three hundred and fifty, there were but Two and thirty who chose St. Paul's better part, and the rest contented themselves with doing well.  
Give me leave to trip from the Minerva to the Borghese Palace, 
You must see at the Minerva that famous Statue of Christ embracing the Cross, by Michael Angelo.  without obliging me to give you any other reason why I do so, than that I must follow my Journal thither. This Palace is very beautiful, and contains many Rarities. The Porticoes are supported by fourscore and sixteen Antique Pillars of Egyptian Granite. Among the Pictures in the lower Apartments, there are seventeen hundred Originals by the most celebrated Masters: The Venus blindfolding Cupid, while the Graces bring him his Arms, is Titian's, and is esteemed the best. Paul the Fifth, who was of this Family, is painted in such fine Mosaic Work, that his Picture is said to contain above a million of Pieces: My Calculation assures me, that this cannot be true, but, without Criticising upon a Trifle, it must be acknowledged that 'tis an excellent Picture. Here they showed us a Crucifix of the same bigness with that of the Carthusians at Naples, and assured us, that this is that famous Original of Michael Angelo, which I mentioned before. To reconcile this Difference, I think I may affirm, without any scruple, that the whole story is a mere Fable.  
It was the common People that gave the name of Rotonda to the Pantheon, because of the roundness of its Figure. When Boniface the Fourth dedicated this ancient Temple to the Virgin and all the Martyrs, he named it S. Maria ad Martyrs. Afterwards some other Pope would have all the Saints in general comprehended with the Martyrs. I must ingenuously acknowledge, that I cannot give you the satisfaction you desire concerning the true reason why this Temple was of old called the Pantheon. Some say, that it had that name from the resemblance between its Figure and that of the Heavens, Quod forma ejus convexa fastigiatam Coeli similitudinem ostenderet. Others think that it was consecrated by Agrippa to Jupiter and all the Gods; or, perhaps to Jupiter only, and to Cybele the Mother of the Gods: but after all, my opinion is, that this Controversy is not well decided.  
'Tis true, there are Niches all round the inside of the Temple, and I think we may reasonably conjecture, that these Niches were formerly full of Idols, but this is the only Inference that we can draw from them. Varro tells us of Thirty thousand Deities that were worshipped at Rome; and the Philosopher Bruxillus, in his dying Speech to the Senate, assured them, that he had left Two hundred and Eighty thousand; so that there must have been a great number of Niches indeed to accommodate all those Deities. Your Niches then will not furnish you with one Argument to prove that the Pantheon was consecrated to all that multitude of Gods that were adored at Rome. Tho' this Temple hath lost its fairest Ornaments, it is still one of the most beautiful and entire antique Edifices in Italy. There is to be seen at Castle St. Angelo, of which I shall quickly give you some account, a Cannon which is a seventy pounder, that was made, as well as the four Columns of the great Altar, only of the brazen Nails with which the Roof of the Portico was fastened. 
The two Lions of Porphyry which are under the Portico of the Pantheon, did heretofore serve to adorn the Front of the Temple of Isis. F. Nardin.  The Columns of this Portico are of Granite, of the Corinthian Order, and all of one piece. I measured them with as much exactness as you could desire: they are not all equally big, but I found that they were fifteen foot in compass, within a few inches more or less: I give you the measure of them in English feet, and you may judge of the rest by the proportion that is between each part. That piece of Granite, in which the opening of the great Gate is cut, is also of a very considerable bigness; for it is forty foot high, and very near twenty broad.  
The illustrious Raphael lies interred in this Church: Bembus made this beautiful Distich to serve for his Epitaph; 
Ille hic est Raphael timuit quo sospite vinci  
Rerum magna parens, & moriente mori.   
La Guillitiere says, that the Pantheon at Athens seemed to him to be a far more magnificent Structure than that of Rome. But Spon has censured this Author for fancying the Temple of Minerva to be a Pantheon. Meursius had fallen into the same Error, and their common Mistake is grounded upon the faulty description which Theodosius Zygomala, whose words they only transcribe, gives of that famous Temple, in his Letter to Martin Crusius, or perhaps on the name of Parthenion, which Pausanias gives it. I will not exercise your patience with tedious descriptions of Churches, but shall content myself to communicate to you some particular Observations concerning them, as occasion shall offer. That of St. Peter is generally esteemed to be the largest and most magnificent Temple in the World: He that would make a right judgement of it, must go thither often; he must even walk on the top of the Arches, and into the very Ball which is over the Dome, and must also view the Church which is under Ground. At your first entrance you see no surprising Objects; the harmony and proportions of Architecture are so judiciously observed, and every thing is placed so exactly where it ought to be, that this unparallelled Order does rather compose the Mind than disturb its tranquillity; but the longer you consider this vast Structure, the more indispensably you will find yourself obliged to admire it. Since you are willing to rely on my Fidelity and Diligence, rather than on those who have already given you some dimensions of this Edifice, I will send you the principal of them, as I measured 'em myself more than once, with the assistance of skilful and experienced persons. You will very much oblige me, by giving me an Account of what resemblance or difference you shall find between these Dimensions and those of your St. Paul's.  
St Peter's Church  
Vol. 2 d. Pag. 24   depiction of St. Peter's Church 
 Engl. feet. inch 1. The length of the Church, measured on the outside, comprehending the wideness of the Portico, and the thickness of the Walls, 722  2. The length of the Church, measured within, without comprehending either the Portico, or the thickness of the Walls, 594  3. The length of the Cross of the Church, on the outside, 490  4. The length of the Cross within, 438  5. The breadth of the Body of the Church, 86 8 6. The perpendicular height of the Body of the Church, 144  7. The bigness or outward circumference of the Dome, 620  8. The diameter of the Dome within 143  9 The breadth of the Front of the Church, 400  10. The entire height of the Church, from the Floor to the top of the Cross which is over the Ball, 432  11. The diameter of the Ball, 8 4 12. The height of the Statues which are on the Cornish of the Second Order of the Front, 18   
Bramanti, under Julius TWO, and Michael Angelo, under Paul III, were the two principal Architects of this Building: And indeed, there is no part of it which is not noble and majestical.  
The Chair of St. Peter, supported by the four Doctors of the Church, whose Statues are of Brass gilt; the Tombs of Vrban VIII, Paul III, Alexander VII, and the Countess Maud, who, you know, was Gregory the VIIth's 
* 
Poene comes individua.  
Lamb. Abbot of Hirtzaw.  
By the Tomb of Paul III. there are two Marble Statues, which they were forced to cover with a Drapery of Brass, to remove the occasion of Scandal that was given by two Spaniards, who were enamoured of these Figures.   dear Friend, are Works of a finished beauty and magnificence.  
There is nothing to be seen in this admirable Structure but gilt Work, rare Pictures, embossed Work, Statues of Brass and Marble, and all these things are disposed in their proper places by so wise and happy a Contrivance, that the abundance of them does not cause the least Confusion. The inside of the Cupola is of Mosaic Work, the Arch of the Nave is of a certain fine Clay, with Compartments of raised work gilded; and all the Pilasters will be shortly overcast with the same matter, as well as the remaining part of the inside of the Church.  
The great Altar is directly under the Dome, in the middle of the Cross; it is a kind of a Pavilion, supported by four wreathed Pillars of Brass, that are adorned with Foliages, and strewed with Bees, which were the Arms of P. Vrban VIII. Over every Column there is an Angel of Brass gilt, seventeen foot high; and there are Figures of Children playing and walking on the Cornish. This Piece is extremely valued; and the height of the whole amounts to ninety feet. Under this Altar there is a pair of Stairs, which leads to the Chapel where St. Peter's Body is pretended to be kept, and to the other holy places in the Vaults of this Church.  
At the entry of these Grottoes I observed a Bull engraved in Marble, 
Huc mulieribus ingredi non licet, nisi unico die Lunae post Pentecosten: quo vicissim viri ingredi prohibentur. Qui secus faxint, Anathema sunto.  by which Women are forbidden to enter into that place, save only on Whitsun-Monday, on which day it is declared unlawful for any Man to come there; and whosoever shall act contrary to either of these Prohibitions, are anathematised. These places are dark, and the Sexton told us, That this Order was occasioned by a certain amorous Adventure. There is an Indulgence of seven years for every Step of the Stairs that lead to St. Peter's Chapel, granted to such as descend them with Devotion.  
The double Range of Pillars which encloses the great Place that is before the Church, 
286 Pillars.  and leads to the same Church, by a double Portico on each side, is an unusual sort of Ornament, which surprises the Beholder. There are in the Place two magnificent Fountains, which cast forth very large Streams. The Obelisk which stands in the middle is of one entire piece of Granate, it is 
* Saxum mirae magnitudinis. Petrar. lib. Ep. 2.  seventy eight foot high, without reckoning either the Pedestal or the Cross, which Sixtus V caused to be placed on the top of the Obelisk, when he set up that ancient Monument. 'Tis commonly, but falsely, reported, 
It was set up in the year 1586. It weighs without reckoning the Base 956148 pounds. See J. J. Boissard.  That the brazen Globe which was there formerly contained the Ashes of Augustus. Dominicus Fontana the Architect, that was employed by Sixtus V, having examined that Ball, found that it could not have served for that use; and it was nothing else but a simple Ornament. 'Tis true, the Obelisk was consecrated to Augustus and Tiberius; as it appears plainly by this Inscription, which is still very conspicuous, and may be read distinctly, 
Divo Caesari, Divi Julii F. Augusto:  
Tiberio Caesari, D. Aug. F. Augusto, Sacrum.   
The Palace of the 
* It was believed that the God Vaticanus gave his Oracles or Vaticinia in this place.  Vatican is adjacent to St. Peter's Church: This is certainly a conveniency to the Pope; but it must be acknowledged, that the too near Neighbourhood of that Palace is by no means advantageous to the Church, but rather occasions a very unpleasnat confusion; for, the prospect of that Church would be infinitely more glorious and delightful, if a great part of it were not hid by other Edifices, and if it were on all sides exposed to the unobstructed view of the Beholder. The Vatican is not a regular Building, but rather a heap of beautiful Pieces ill tacked together: It is said to contain Twelve thousand and Five hundred Chambers, Halls, and Closets; and this computation may be easily examined on the Model which is showed of it in Wood The Belvedere is a part of the Vatican; you know, without doubt, that it derives its name from the lovely prospect which is discovered from this place.  
The excellent Pieces of Raphael, Michael Angelo, Julius Romanus, Pinturicchio, Polidorus, John de Vdina, Daniel Volterra, and several other famous Masters, found us more Employment than all the other Beauties of the Palace: The History of Attila, by the incomparable Raphael, is always surrounded with Admirers. 
Raphael was born on Good-Friday, 1483. and died on another Good-Friday 37 years after.  I have several times observed with pleasure the earnestness and attention with which the most competent Judges are wont to examine all its Beauties. Look, says one, what a graceful mixture of Strength and Sweetness there is in that Figure: Would you not swear that this other were alive? Does it not seem to breath? Is it possible to express a more lively Passion, or to imagine a more charming posture? Admire, cries another, that prodigious variety of Faces, and that admirable disposition of Light and Shades. Did ever Michael Angelo design better, or Titian lay his Colours more happily? Never was there any Piece more noble and tightly beautiful throughout. But 'tis time to leave them to their Raptures; neither would a whole day suffice to relate all that I have heard on this occasion. The Merit of Raphael, and his glorious Reputation, sets the Wits on work every day to invent new Expressions to praise his Works. But, after all, even the greatest Examples of Perfection are not 
* See pag.  faultless, and Raphael himself is guilty of a considerable Error in the same Picture, where Pope Leo the First, and two Cardinals that attend him, are represented in the same 
† Platina writes, That Pope Constantine, and the other Popes of that Age, (250 years after Leo I) wore only a plain Chamlet Garment. Concerning the Cardinals, see Vol. 2. It has been observed, that Albert Durer seldom made a Face without Whiskers. At Soest in the County of Mark, in Westphalia, there is a Picture of our Saviour's last Supper, on a Glass Window in a Church, in which a Gammon of Bacon is put for the Paschal Lamb. Since Images are the Books of the Ignorant, it is to be wished that they were made agreeable to the Truth.  Habits that are now usually worn by persons of their Rank; which is somewhat too bold a violation of the Truth of History. This puts me in mind of Titian, who forgot himself so far as to hang Rosaries at the Girdles of those two Disciples, whom Christ met in their way to Emaus; and of another famous Painter, I mean Rosso, who introduces Monks in their Frocks, as Guests at the Virgin's Wedding. But leaving the Vatican, was there ever any Painter guilty of a more ridiculous design and fantastical disposition of the Parts in a Picture, than Michael, in that of the Last Judgement? There you may see Angels without Wings, and the old Ferryman Charon transporting a Boatful of Souls; there you may behold the Resurrection of Persons of all Ages, with brawny Muscles like so many Herculeses, shoals of naked Persons huddled confusedly together, and Bodies exposed in unseemly postures. Michael Angelo designed boldly, and painted whatsoever his heated Fancy suggested to him.  
Since I am upon this subject, I cannot forbear taking notice of the Murder of Admiral 
* The Parliament of Paris had promised Fifty thousand Crowns of Gold to any person that should exhibit him alive or dead. The word in the French is representer.  Coligny, the History of which is described in three large Pictures, which are to be seen in the Hall where the Pope gives Audience to Ambassadors. In the first Coligny is represented as he was carried to his House, after he was wounded by the Ruffian Morevel, and at the bottom of the Picture is this Motto, Gasper Colignius Amirallius accepto vulnere domum refertur. Greg. XIII, Pontif. Max. 1572; that is, Gasper Coligny the Admiral is carried home wounded: In the Pontificate of Greg. XIII, 1572. The second exhibits him murdered in his own House, together with his Son-in-law Teligny, and others, with these words, Caedes Colignii & Sociorum ejus; i. e. The Slaughter of Coligny and his Companions. And in the third, the News of the Execution is brought to the King, who seems pleased with it, as it appears by the Inscription, Rex Colignii necem probat; The King approves of the Slaughter of Coligny.  
The Pope did not content himself with setting up the History of this Massacre as a Trophy in his Palace; but the better to eternise the memory of so remarkable an Action, he caused Medals to be coined, with this Inscription about his Image, Gregorius XIII, Pont. Max. An. 1. and on the reverse a destroying Angel, holding in one Hand a Cross, and in the other a Sword, with which he seems to thrust, with these words, Vgonottorum Strages, 1572; i e. The Slaughter of the Hugonots, 1572. These Medals are become very scarce, yet I obtained some of them by the assistance of my Friends.  
I shall say nothing of the Gardens of Belvedere, nor of the Statues with which they are adorned: You have heard that the 
* See the History of Laocoon, in the second Book of the Aeneids. The Laocoon is of one piece of Marble; 'tis the Work of Agesander, Pylodorus, and Athenodorus, three Grecian Sculptors.  Laocoon is infinitely valued; and the 
† 'Tis a Body without Head, Arms, or Legs: the Sculptor's Name is engraven on the Pedestal, 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉, Apollonius the Son of Nestor, a Athenian.  Trunk, the Antinous, the Apollo, and the Cleopatra are also particularly admired.  

* There are very different Opinions about the number of Books contained in this Library. And I am so little able to decide the ● Question, that I choose rather to say nothing of it.  The Vatican Library has been increased not only by the addition of that of Heydelberg, but also of the Duke of Vrbin's. The Pictures with which it is replenished represent the Sciences, Councils, most celebrated Libraries, Inventors of Letters, and some passages in the Life of Sixtus the Fifth. The old Manuscript 
* 
The Virgil and Terence of the Vatican were written a thousand years ago; Spon.  
They showed us here a Volume of Letters of Henry VIII. to Ann of Bolen, which is in quarto, about the thickness of a Finger.   Virgil is in quarto, of greater breadth than length, in capital Letters, without distinction of Words, or the use of Points. The Character is somewhat Gothic, which does not at all agree with the first▪ Ages of Antiquity, in which some pretend it was written, no more than the Miniature which is the product of an ignorant Age.  
I observed among the Manuscripts of the last Ages some Letters written by, and to Cardinals; in which they style one-another Master Peter, or Master Julius, without further Ceremony.  
I saw the Germane Bible which you mention; they pretend that it was translated by Luther, and written by his own Hand; but the credit of that Story is destroyed by the extravagant Prayer at the end of it, which is apparently of the same hand with the rest. Thus it is in the Original: 

O Gott, durch deine gute,  
Bescher uns kleider und hute,  
Auch mentel und rock,  
Felle kalber und bocke,  
Ochsen, Schafe, und rinder,  
Viele weiber, wenig kinder.   

Schlechte speis und trank  
Machem einen das jahr lang.    
That is, O God, be graciously pleased to grant us Clothes and Hats, Cloaks and Gowns, fat Calves and Goats, Oxen, Sheep, and Bulls, many Wives, and few Children▪ Bad Meat and all D●●●k make Life uneasy. It must be acknowledged, that they who would persuade us that Luther was the Author of this Prayer, must have a very earnest desire to make him pass for a Debauchee.  
From the Library we went to the Arsenal, where, if you will believe them, there is a sufficient number of Arms for Twenty thousand Horse and Forty thousand Foot. But I can assure you, that there are not half so many; and besides, the Arms that they have are in a bad condition. And 'tis no wonder, for these are not the principal Thunders of the Vatican.  
If on one side the Pope may descend from this Palace to S. Peter's Church, on the other he may escape unseen to the Castle of St. Angelo. Alexander the Sixth built a Gallery of Communication for this very purpose: and indeed, such a wicked man as that Pope was, had reason to provide for his security. Vrban VIII. fortified the Castle with four Bastions, and gave 'em the Names of the four Evangelists. There is a Picture in the Chapel, which represents Gregory the First with his triple Crown prostrating himself before an Angel that appears to him on the top of Adrian's Mausoleum, and puts up his Sword into its Sheath. This was done, says the Story, to advertise the Pope of the approaching Deliverance of Rome from a raging Plague that had wasted the City for a long time: and from hence that Mausoleum had the name of the Castle of St. Angelo.  
In the little Arsenal that belongs to this Castle we saw an Armoury full of prohibited Arms, and were informed, 
The Pope's triple Crown is kept in this Castle.  that almost all those in whose possession they were seized had been put to death. Among the rest, they showed us Ranuccio Farnese's Pistols; I believe the Story of 'em will not be unwelcome to you, of which you may take the following brief Account, as I have heard it related by several persons here.  
Sixtus the Fifth having by repeated Orders expressly prohibited the carrying of secret Arms, was informed; that the young Prince Ranuccio, Son and Heir of Alexander Farnese Duke of Parma and Governor of the Netherlands, went usually armed with Pocket-pistols. 
Asperius nihil est humili qui surgit in altum.  The Pope, who was naturally the most rigid and severe man in the World, joyfully embraced all occasions to display the greatness of his Power, without regarding who might be sufferers by it. Besides, the Duchy of Parma being a Fief of his Demeans, he looked on that Prince as his Vassal: He commanded Ranuccio to be arrested, and to aggravate his Gild, ordered his Pistols to be taken from him in one of the Chambers of the Pope's Palace, as that Prince was going to desire an Audience of his Holiness. Ranuccio was immediately carried to the Castle of S. Angelo, and the Cardinal Farnese his Uncle left no means  to procure his Liberty, but all in vain. Whether the Pope had resolved on the Death of that poor Prince, or only intended to terrify him, is a Question which I cannot determine. However, about Ten o'th' clock at night, at the same time that the Cardinal was returned to renew his solicitations, Sixtus sent an express Command to the Governor of the Castle to cause Ranuccio to be beheaded; and not doubting but that his Orders had been instantly executed, he rid himself of the Cardinal, by granting him a new Order to the Governor, by which he commanded him to set Ranuccio (whom he concluded to be already dead) at liberty at Eleven o'th' clock. The Cardinal, who was ignorant of the first Order, ran to the Castle without losing a moment, and was extremely surprised to find his Nephew all in Tears, in the Arms of a Confessor, and to hear that his Death had been only delayed, because he had begged a little time to prepare himself for it. The Governor seeing this new Order, and concluding that the Pope had at last yielded to the importunate solicitations of the Cardinal, delivered up his Prisoner, who, by his Uncle's Command, immediately took post, and so escaped from the very Jaws of Death.  
The Cavalier Borri, a Milanese Gentleman, who is a great Chemist, and expert Physician, is at present a Prisoner in the Castle of St. Angelo; he is accused of some Heretical Opinions, but at the same time 'tis believed, that he is not perfectly Master of his Reason, which is the cause that he is not kept under a very close confinement, and even is sometimes permitted to visit persons of Quality in the City, who desire his assistance for the cure of their Distempers. We were informed, that he pretends to revive the Errors of the Collyridians' in the Fourth Age, who paid a sort of Adoration to the Virgin; and 'tis even reported, that he makes her a fourth person in the Godhead.  
This man puts me in mind of Dr. Molinos, of whom you desire me to send you some certain News, which 'tis impossible for me to do. 'Tis true, I have seen those Propositions that are either heretical, or pretended to be so, of which he is said to be the Author; nor would it be very difficult to obtain a Copy of his Accusation; but all this signifies nothing. I must hear Molinos himself, before I can judge of the merit of his cause: for, 'tis certain, that all the accounts that we have of him are guilty either of Aggravation or Alleviation. Of these Propositions, which I mentioned, some are dangerous, several are ambiguous, many indifferent, and others very reasonable and orthodox. However, I can assure you, that his Reputation is generally very bad in this place: He is esteemed a Villain, a lewd Fellow, and a Seducer, who has so cunningly insinuated himself into Nunneries by his Cant of Insensibility, Ecstasy, etc. that a great number of these poor Creatures have been deluded by him. They relate a thousand Stories to confirm the Opinion they have of him, but I must tell you once more that they are of doubtful Credit. We may easily perceive that 'tis their Interest to blacken the Character of that unhappy Man, and to load him with Reproaches, since they have condemned him in so ignominious a manner to pass the rest of his days in a Cell. Besides, I observed, that even his bitterest Enemies are wont to make a distinction between him and his Followers. Molinos, they say, is void of all Religion and Virtue; he is a man of no Principles, and believes nothing at all, but there are some well-meaning Molinists, who are unacquainted with their Master's Heart, and are sincere Professors of that Quietism, and those other Opinions, which you have heard so often mentioned▪  
I am, Sir, Your &c. Rome, March 30, 1688.   

LETTER XXIV.  
SIR,  
THAT I may observe some Order in that variety of Matter which is the Subject of my Letters, I follow sometimes my own Journal, and sometimes yours. Some days ago M. B. made his Court to the Heroine, whom you mention, and was received with a great deal of Civility and Respect. The Company began immediately to talk of England, of its Court, the Excellency of the Country, the various Customs of the Inhabitants, and particularly the Liberty that is allowed to the Women; the opposition of their easy and pleasant manner of living in that Country to the perpetual confinement of the poor Italian Ladies, made the condition of these last seem doubly miserable. It was however alleged, That this Custom which appears to be so injurious to the beautiful Sex, is a necessary piece of Caution in Italy, where three quarters of the Men living under the insupportable restraint of a forced Celibacy, would make a dreadful havoc of their Neighbor's Property, if some means were not used to prevent such Disorders. Why do we not then take St. Paul's Advice, replied one of the company, who exhorts every Man to have his own Wife, and every Woman her own Husband? But lest we should have been insensibly engaged in Controversy, by continuing to talk on that Subject, the Discourse was dexterously charged: And the Queen being informed, that there was a French Gentleman in the company, asked News concerning the late Mission of Dragoons; and after she had attentively heard his Answer 
* You may see the Letter which that Princess wrote on this Subject to the Chevalier de Terlon. It is inserted in the Nouvelles de la Republique des Lettres, May 1686. , I knew all that you have told me, said she, and have learned much more from the Mouths of Eye-witnesses; and even Jesuits themselves have given me an account of 
† Not many months ago some Germane Jesuits told me, said the Queen, that they had seen Dragoons, Priapos suos immanes in os faeminarum intromittentes, ibique urinam fundentes. I chid 'em severely, added she, for suffering such horrible Insolency, but they only laughed at it.  infamous Villainies; They have added Scoffing and Insolency to Treachery and Barbarity. After these words, and some particular Stories relating to the same Subject, we discoursed of the Pope, of his Health, and of his famous Difference with the Court of France about the Immunities, and at length the Queen withdrew.  
You are not ignorant of the Learning and Merit of this Princess, but since you desire me to give you some account of her Person, I will make her Picture in few words. She is above sixty years of age, of a very low stature, extreme fat and thick: her Complexion, Voice, and Countenance are masculine, her Nose is great, her Eyes are large and blue, and her Kickshaws yellow; she has a double Chin strewed with some long Hairs of a Beard, and her under Lip sticks out a little. Her Hair is of a bright Chesnut colour, about a hand-breadth long, powdered and bristled up, without any Head-dress; she has a smiling Air, and is very obliging. As for her Habit, imagine a Man's Justaucor of black Satin, reaching to the Knee, and buttoned quite down; a very short black Coat, which discovers a Man's Shoe; a great knot of black Ribbon instead of a Cravat, and a Girdle above the Justaucor, which keeps up her Belly, and makes its roundness fully appear.  
After the Queen had left us, we visited the principal Apartments of her 
* She lives in the Palace Riari.  Palace, where we found a great number of Pictures and other Antique Pieces of rare and exquisite beauty; I shall only name some part of 'em to you at present; as, the Augustus, of Oriental Alabaster, transparent as Amber; the Head and Feet are additional Pieces, of Brass gilt, but the rest is very entire. The sixteen ancient Columns of Giallo, with two Pillars of Oriental Alabaster seven foot high, the finest Agate cannot look fairer. The Venus, which might contend for the Golden Apple with that at Florence, if her Legs had not been mangled by that general Devourer, Time. 'Tis true, they have supplied these Defects by the addition of new pieces, which are so admirably well fitted to the rest, that 'tis almost impossible to perceive that they have been added. The Castor and Pollux on each side of their Mother Leda, all of one piece of Marble; the Sons are bigger than the Mother, and she has but one of her Eggs. The Altar of Bacchus of fine white Marble, and adorned with excellent Sculptures in Basso relievo. I took notice of the old Silenus, who has caroused so briskly at the Festival of his Foster-child, that he is not able to walk without Supporters. I observed also the Bacchants in the posture of mad Women, some of which are playing on Pipes, like the Fawn on the Vessel at Cajeta. In another corner there is a 
* Baccho Caper omnibus aris Coeditur. All Bacchus' Altars reek with Blood of Goats. Of old humane Victims were offered to him; but after his Voyage to India, that Custom was abolished, and instead of Men, they sacrificed only Asses and Goats.  Goat flayed alive for brousing on Father Liber's Vines; and a Boar, who is washed in order to be sacrificed.  
Among the Pictures, I shall only take notice of the Amours of Jupiter in the shape of a Swan, with Leda, which is one of the finest pieces of Correge. The Virgin, with the Infant Jesus, and the little St. John by Raphael, and Danae by Carachio. There are also many other Pictures by the same Hands, and some by Titian, Paul Veronese, Guido, and several other famous Masters.  
It would be an endless Labour to describe all the rare Medals that we saw in this Palace, but since I promised to leave no subject wholly untouched, I shall only name the Otho of Brass an Egyptian Medal, which has on the reverse the Image of Serapis; the Pertinax, a little Latin Medal, on the reverse of which that Emperor is represented offering a Sacrifice; the Antoninus Pius, having on the reverse Hercules sitting and Diana standing; another Antoninus Pius, being a little Latin Medal, which has on the reverse the same Emperor crowned by Victory and Abundance, bringing him Fruit: this Medal has been well kept, and is in very good condition, in which its value principally consists: a third little Latin Medal of the same Antonin, which M. Bellori calls l' Anno nuovo, or the New Year, by reason of the four Letters on the reverse, A. N. F. F. which he interprets Annum novum, faustum, faelicem: and the Nero, a Latin Medal, with Hercules on the reverse.  
The Cicero a Brooch of Onyx being a white Head on a brown Ground, is one of the most valuable pieces in this Cabinet.  
I shall pass from these Rarities to others of a different sort. In St. Sabina's Church on Mount Aventine they show a great Stone, which the Devil of Colen hurled from the top of the arched Roof, with a design to knock out poor St. Dominic's Brains: which he did out of spite, if our Informers do not belly the Devil, because he had failed in his attempt to beat down the Chapel of the Three Kings.  

Regum Reliquias quas sancta Colonia servat,  
Cum torvus Satanas laedere non valuit:  
Orantem voluit Sanctum trucidare; sed ecce,  
Declinat rupes, & Patriarcha valet.   

Beelzebub spied a holy Bone,  
Which set his Guts a grumbling;  
He leered, but durst not filch, for one  
Who o'er his Beads lay mumbling,  
Pox take the Rogue, cried Pug,  I  
Be starved, I'll spoil his Whoring:  
But Satan hurled the Stone awry,  
And Dominic 'scap'd a scouring.   
You have heard of the 
* It was made in the year 1360.  Crucifix at St. Paul's which spoke to St. Bridget; and therefore I shall only tell you, that it was made by P. Cavallini, and that this is not the only Image in Rome that has learned to prattle. Another Crucifix at St. Mary Transpontin's has discoursed several times with St. Peter and St. Paul: And our Lady 
† This Church was formerly the Temple of Remus, or of Remus and Romulus.  of S. Cosme and Damian chid S. Gregory very sharply for passing by without saluting her: Besides, I know two others at St. Mary's the Empress, and St. Gregory's on Mount Celio, whose Tongues upon occasion have wagged very briskly: and how many more, d' ye think, there are whom I do not know? There are others also who have wept and bled, at St. Mary's of Peace, St. Mary's in Vallicella, and another St. Mary's called del Pianto; besides that in the Church of the Holy Ghost, which shed whole Floods of Tears a little before the last sacking of Rome, insomuch that all the Monks in the Convent could hardly dry its Eyes.  
If you desire a more particular account of St. Gregory's Adventure with the Image that found fault with his clownishness, you will find the Story in the following Verses, which some ascribe to the Abbot Joachim, and others to the Venerable Bede; however, 'tis certain that the Author of 'em was very little acquainted with St. Gregory, yet I hope they may serve to divert you.  
Heus tu! quo properas, temerary Claviger! heus tu!  
Siste gradum. Quae reddita vox mihi percutit Aures?  
Quis Coeli Regis me sceptra vicesque gerentem  
Impius haud dubitat petulanti laedere lingua?  
Siste gradum; converte oculos, venerare vocantem.  
O mirum! O portentum! effundit imago loquelas!  
(At fort illudunt sopitos somnia sensus)  
Mene vocas? O Effigies! hanc labra moventem,  
Flectentemque caput video. Quid quaeris, Imago!  
Nomen, Imago, tuum liceat cognoscere. Mater  
Sancta tui Domini, libidine est ignota Gregori?  
Virgo parens, ignara tori, taclusque virilis;  
Regia Progenies; Rosa mystica; Faederis Arca;  
Excelsi Regina Poli; Domus aurea; sponsa Tonantis,  
Justitiae speculum & Clypaeus; Davidica Turris;  
Janua Coelorum, tibi ne est ignota Gregori?  
Ignaro veniam concede, insignis Imago.  
Virgo Maria priùs nunquàm mihi visa: loquentem  
Nunquam te prius audivi: quis talia vidit?  
Parco lubens: posthac sed reddere verba salutis  
Debita, ment tene. Quò te nunc semita ducit?  
Supra Altare tuum, Missam celebravit odoram  
Presbyter Andreas; animam liberavit, & ecce,  
Impatiens Semicocta jacet prope limina clausa  
Gurgitis, ille viam petit à me. Perge Gregori.  Image. 
Hark ye, Mr. Turnkey, whither so fast, you boldface you?  Pope. 
What profane noise invades my sacred Ears?  
Who dares revile with his unhallowed tongue  
The great Vicegerent of the King of Heaven?  Image. 
Stop, turn thy Eyes, and worship her that calls thee.  Pope. 
O Miracle! O Prodigy! a speaking Image!  
Some Dream perhaps my drowsy Senses cheats:  
No, 'tis no Dream; but didst thou call me, Image?  
What art thou? or, what wouldst? speak, I  
conjure thee.  Image. 
Dost thou not know the Mother of thy Lord;  
The Virgin-Mother never touched by Man;  
Offspring of sacred Princes; Mystic Rose;  
Ark of the Covenant; Queen o'th' Starry Sky;  
Temple of Gold; the thunderers much-loved Spouse;  
Mirror and Shield of Justice; David 's Tower;  
The Gate of Heaven; dost thou not know her Gregory?  Pope. 
Pardon, illustrious, sacred, much-wronged Image;  
Forgive an Injury ignorantly done  
My Ignorance caused; let it excuse my Crime.  
I never saw thy glorious Face before,  
Nor ever heard thy Heavenly Voice till now:  
What Mortal ever saw or heard such Wonders?  Image. 
I do forgive thee, willingly forgive thee;  
But ask not pardon for a second Error:  
Still with a decent Salutation greet  
Me, in thy passage.— Whither was thy Journey?  Pope. 
My Brother Julio lately on thy Altars  
Atoned heavens Anger, saved a Soul; and lo,  
The half-boiled Ghost, impatient of delay,  
Lies at the close-shut Gates of Paradise,  
And, longing, waits my coming for admittance.  Image. 
Go thy ways, Gregory.  
The rarest Picture in Rome is at S. Sylvester's, in the Field of Mars, which is an 
* They affirm, That this is the Image mentioned by J. Damascen, which Christ sent to K. Abgarus. Eusebius recites the Letters that past between Christ and Abgarus but says nothing of an Image. See Reiskii Exercitationes de imaginibus Christi.  Image of Christ, done, as they say, by himself.  
If you desire Relics, I can furnish you with some that are very curious. The Ark of the Covenant, Moses and Aaron's Rods, and the Foreskin of Christ, are kept at S. John de Lateran. One of the pieces of Money that Judas received, the same person's Lantern, by the good leave of another Pretender at S. Denis in France, and the Cross of the St. Good Thief are at the Church of the Holy Cross of Jerusalem, with the Tail of Balaam's Ass, and St. Paul's Thorn. And S. Roch's Bowl may be seen at S. Marcel's. They tell us also, that some Beams of the Star that conducted the Wise Men were formerly preserved, with the Horns of Moses; but 'tis long since these Rays were eclipsed or evaporated, as well as the sound of the Jerusalem Bells; and Moses' Horns were transported to Genova, where (if we may believe the common report) they are still safely preserved.  
The Navel of Christ is at S. Maria del Popolo: The story of that Church's Foundation is very pleasant. In the very place, say they, where it now stands, there was formerly a large Walnut-tree, on the Branches of which a great many Devils did constantly perch, to guard the Ashes of Nero, that were enclosed in an Urn near that place. Now, the People, as you must needs suppose, were extremely plagued by such troublesome Neighbours. Pope Paschal TWO, moved with compassion at their Miseries, endeavoured by Fasting and Prayer to drive away this Hellish Fry; and it was revealed to him, That he must pull up the Tree by the Roots, and in the very same place erect a Church to the Honour of Mary. This Advice was put in execution with a great deal of solemnity; all the People contributed to the work, which gave occasion to the Name of St, Marry of the People.  
I must also say something of 
* S. Giacomo Scossacavalli.  S. James Shakehorse, where they show the Stone 
† On the Altar of the Presentation,  on which Christ was circumcised, with the impression made by one of his Heels upon the Marble; and also 
‖ On St. Ann's Altar.  another Marble Table, on which Abraham designed to have sacrificed his Son. The Empress Helena, says the Story, sent these bulky Relics to be placed in St. Peter's Church; but as soon as the Wagon came over-against St. James', the Horses stopped suddenly, and could not be made to go one step further: This unexpected Freak of theirs, you must needs think, surprised the Drivers, but they perceived at last that the Stones were really grown heavier, which made 'em imagine that these Relics had a secret inclination to lodge at St. James', rather than at St. Peter's. At first indeed this Fancy did not appear very reasonable; but there being by chance one in the company who remembered that St. Paul calls St. James as well as St. Peter, The Pillar of the Church, they were all confirmed in the Belief, that this Accident was not brought to pass without some mysterious design: However, tho' all the Buffalo's in Italy had been there, the Wagon would have sooner pulled them backwards than they could have drawn it forwards; and therefore they were even forced to leave 'em at St. James'; and to preserve the memory of so great a Miracle, they gave that Saint the surname of Shakehorse.  
You have reason to believe that I have had the Curiosity to hear some of their Preachers; neither are you deceived when you suspect, that I am no Admirer of their way of 
* Their finest Discourses are those which give the Hearers most diversion. 'Tis true, every Order has a particular Way of Preaching: The Jesuits are esteemed very good Declaimers, and their Gesture is not so extravagant as that of other Monks; but their Style is the most fantastical. The Capuchins are everlasting Thunderers, and preach nothing but Death and Destruction, if it be not a day set apart for Buffonery. Hell, Purgatory, and the Last Judgement are the Subjects of almost all their Discourses. They pull their Beards, clap their Hands, and roar out hideously. I found t'other day a very pleasant Remark, in a Book that treats on this Subject; the Author of which assures us, that always when a Capuchin preaches the Dogs run out of the Church.  Preaching, and, you might have added also, of their Sermons. The Preachers here, generally speaking, are mere makers of wry Mouths and ugly Faces. They have indeed some natural Endowments that have a tendency to some parts of Oratory, but they are perfectly ignorant of sublime Eloquence. All their Motions are extravagant Agitations of the Body, or apish Tricks; the variation of the Tone of their Voice throws 'em from the loudest Treble to the lowest Base twenty times in a quarter of an hour; and their Discourses have neither Strength nor Gravity. They bawl, they torment themselves, their Pulpits are for the most part like so many Balconies, where they run about with a great deal of Noise and Hear, but there is neither Senee nor Reason in all this. They are perfect strangers to that admirable way of pronunciation, which by an agreeable and well-ordered mixture of softness and vehemency does at once charm, and move, and ravish the Souls of the Hearers: And besides, their whole Discourses do usually consist of a ridiculous Medley of insipid Jests and childish Tales. I heard a Carmelite the other day, who in a Sermon that he preached before the penitent Whores of the Holy Cross, concerning Mary Magdalen, set his Fancy on a furious gallop. In order to display the Merit of that Sacrifice which his Penitent made of the Pleasures of the World, he spent at least a quarter of an hour in painting her forth as the most charming Creature under Heaven. He forgot not the least Feature of the compleatest Beauty, and spoke rather like a skilful Painter than a Preacher. Perhaps also he imitated Perrin del Vague, who was wont almost always to make the Picture of his Mistress, when he had a mind to describe any beautiful Lady in a History.  
You must address yourself to some other person for a satisfactory Answer to that Question which you propose, Whether there are more Courtesans at Rome or at Venice. I must acknowledge I do not see so many of 'em here as at Venice: but that is no Argument of their scarcity, especially since I am assured by several persons that their 
* Urbs est jam tota Lupanar. Rome now is one vast Brothel. Bapt. Mantuan.  number is almost infinite. As bold an Undertaker as Sixtus V was, and how eagerly soever he strove to purge Rome of that kind of , you know he was never able to compass his Design; and even after he had banished the lewdest of 'em, he was forced to recall 'em, and settle 'em again, with as much solemnity as they had been by his Namesake Sixtus IU. This was done, they say, to prevent greater 
† Roma quid est? quod te docuit praeposterus ordo. Quid docuit? Jungas versa elementa, scies: Roma Amor est. Amor est qualis? Praeposterus. Unde hoc? Roma mares— Noli dicere plura, Scio. These Verses cannot be englished without losing the Pun.  Disorders. St. Paul says, That 'tis better to marry than to burn; the Romans indeed are not willing to burn, but they find the best Extinguishers at the Bawdy-house.  
This puts me in mind of the ancient Picture of a Wedding at the Aldobrandin Palace: 'Tis a piece of a 
* Or the broad Band under the Cornish.  Freeze, which has been brought hither with that part of the Wall on which it is painted. It is a famous and much valued piece, both for its Antiquity, and the excellency of the Workmanship. You know that the Ceremonies of Marriage were very different, and subject to many alterations among the Romans: here the Bride is seated on the side of the Bed, whereas she was sometimes wont to sit on a Sheep's Fleece, or on a Figure of the God Priapus; she bows down her Head, and counterfeits a certain Grief and Coyness, whilst a 
† Pronula,  Matron with a smiling countenance comforts, instructs, and persuades her, and labours to make her sensible of her Duty. The Bridegroom, crowned with Ivy, and undressed, sits near the Bed, with a brisk Air, waiting with a great deal of impatience, I warrant ye, till his whining Spouse has made an end of all her simpering. In the mean time four or five Maids are busied in several places, in preparing Baths and odoriferous Ointments; and a She-Musician plays on a Harp, whilst another seems to sing some Hymen io, O Hymenaee, some Epithalamium or luscious Song to dispel the Charms.  
The Pictures on the Pyramid of Cestius, and the abovementioned Freeze, are the only Remains of the Ancient Painting which I have yet seen in Rome. I doubt not but this Mausoleum of Caius Cestius has been already described; yet since 'tis a very rare and beautiful Monument, I cannot forbear giving you some account of it. The Pyramid is square, and ends in a very sharp point; it is a hundred and twenty foot high, and ninety four foot broad at the Base. The Body of the Monument is of Brick, but covered over with square pieces of white Marble. It was repaired by Alexander the Seventh, in the year 1673, and almost entirely restored to its primitive Beauty. It appears, by the fair 
* C. Cestius. L. F. Pob. Epulo, Pr. Tr. Pl. VII. Vir Epulonum.  Inscriptions that are still to be seen upon it, that it was erected in memory of 
† Blondus pretends that this Sepulchre was common to the whole Society of the Septemviri Epulones. But he is the only person that I know who is of this Opinion.  C. Cestius, one of the seven Officers who were appointed to take care of Religious Feasts. We entered this Mausoleum by a low and narrow passage, which pierces through the thickness of the Building to the middle of it, where we found a little arched Room nineteen foot long, thirteen broad, and fourteen foot high. This Chamber is plastered over with a certain white and polished Mortar, on which there are still seen several Figures of Women, Vessels, and other Ornaments. I will not undertake to describe all these things particularly; much less will I attempt to write a Dissertation on so difficult a subject; I will only tell you, that having had the fortune to discourse several times with learned Antiquaries concerning these Pictures, I found their Opinions very different: some pretend, that in respect to the Monument they represent the Preparatives for a Funeral Show; and others think, that they contain a representation of a Banquet, as a Memorial alluding to the Office of the Deceased. One of the Figures holds a Vessel, in which some pour Lustral Water, and others Wine Another Figure bears great Pipes, which, according to the first Opinion, were designed for Mirth, and according to the last, for Mourning; and both the disagreeing Parties pretend, with equal probability, to confirm their Suppositions by this Distich in Ovid's Fasts: 

Cantabat Fanis, cantabat Tibia Ludio,  
Cantabat moestis Tibia funeribus.   

The Pipe, with sovereign and resistless Art,  
In Temples, fans Devotion's sacred Fire;  
With Songs it warms, with Dirges chills the Heart,  
While those expel the Grief which these inspire.    
But one thing especially seems to confirm the latter Opinion, if I may be permitted to declare my Thoughts on this subject, namely, That the Habits of the Figures are of several colours, which does not at all agree with the Funeral Ceremonies that were used in those times. It appears by the Inscription of a Pedestal that was dug up near the Pyramid, and on which a Statue of Cestius seems to have been placed, that this Roman died in the beginning of Augustus' Reign; and those who have enquired into the Customs of that Age, assure us, that the Women who assisted at Burials were clothed in white, and that the Fashion of Mourning in black was abolished about the beginning of Caesar's Dictatorship. Besides, I know not what should hinder me from adventuring to maintain that these Pictures were only designed for an Ornament of the Tomb, without regard either to Feast or Funeral. The Sepulchre of the Nase's, so exactly described by Mr. Bellori, is also full of Histories and other Ornaments, which are the mere product of the Painter's Fancy. And the same Observation may be made concerning several other Tombs, and especially Urns, which are adorned with Sculptures in basso relievo, that represent an infinite number of indifferent things.  
The durableness of these Pictures, and the lasting beauty of their Colours, deserve to be considered. You know that 
* It was inven●●● by John de ●●●ge, a Native 〈◊〉 Guelderland, in the year 1450  Painting in Oil is a late Invention; and it appears that the Colours on this Monument have been only moistened with Water, and even do not penetrate the Plaster; tho' there are some places in which they seem to have lost nothing of their first liveliness.  
This Pyramid is Two hundred paces distant from the little Hill commonly called il Doliolo, or Monte Testacio, that is, The Hill of Potsherds. This Hillock is about half a mile in compass, and a hundred and fifty foot in perpendicular height. Those who treat of such Curiosities differ much in their suppositions concerning this great heap of broken Pots, but the most general Opinion is this: The Hillock being near the Tiber, 'tis supposed that all the Potters wrought in this place, both for the nearness of the Water, which is of necessary use in their Employment, and for the conveniency of transporting their Ware. 'Tis also believed that they threw all the broken pieces of their Vessels into one place; and this supposition is confirmed by another Conjecture, That they might have an express Order for so doing, to prevent the inundation of the River on that side. And they conclude, that if we consider the vast number of Idols, Ornaments of Temples, Bathing-tubs, Statues, Fats, Tiles, and all sorts of Vessels that were made in the great City of Rome, it will not appear strange, that the abovementioned Hillock was raised out of their Fragments. This supposition seems reasonable at the first view, but, in my opinion, it is not well grounded, because the Authors of it have not examined the matter with due attention.  
Some Wine-Merchants have thought fit to dig Cellars under this Hill, to preserve their Wines cool: and I have been present several times, and in several places, when they were at work in digging these Caves, so that I had both Time and Opportunity to consider all that they drew out of them, yet I could never find any Fragments of Images, Tiles, or Ornaments, nor any Remainder, or the least appearance of those things that I mentioned. And in more than twenty Cartloads of these broken pieces, I observed only Fragments of Urns, or at the least of Vessels that seemed to have been Urns; which being supposed, we must proceed to establish more probable Conjectures.  
'Tis well known, that in ancient times only the poorest sort of People were buried without the City, in certain Pits called Puticuli. The Custom of burning dead Bodies continued very long, during which time there was made a prodigious quantity of Earthen Urns for the ordinary sort of people; and 'tis impossible to conceive that all the care that was taken to preserve 'em could prevent their being frequently broken. May it not then be supposed, that out of reverence to those Vessels, which had been employed to so sacred an use, and might still contain some part of the Ashes of the Dead, that superstitious people esteemed it a Duty of Religion to gather all these Fragments, and lay 'em in heaps together? Neither should such a Custom appear strange to us, since 'tis so little different from the common practice of Christians at this very day: for, instead of suffering the Bones of deceased persons, that are dug up when a new Grave is made, to be scattered about, do we not endeavour to preserve 'em with some sort of Honour and Respect, by piling them up in heaps?  
Pasquin  
Vol. 2. P. 54.  
Pazzia Sapienza  
●o dico Altrifanno  
●e Diis quidem parco  
●on dir mai mal Sevoi viver ●n Corte  
〈◊〉 comio sto 〈◊〉 cantar unpoco il vero  
Vivere qui sancte cupitis,  
discedite Româ:  
Omnia cum liceant,  
non licet esse bonus.   depiction of Pasquino 
Marforio  
Vol. 2. P. 55   depiction of Marforio 
Marforio is another maimed Figure, by some said to have been a Statue of Jupiter, or, according to others, of the Rhine, or of the Nera, which passes by Terni; but all this is uncertain, as well as the Etymology of the Names of our two Censurers. 'Tis very probable that it was formerly the Mode to affix the Pasquinades on the Statue of Pasquin, but that Custom is laid aside, and all the Satirical Invectives are still fathered on Pasquin, tho' they never come near him. 'Tis usual to make him answer the Questions that are proposed to him by Martorio, which stands in one of the Courts of the Capitol.  
The Apophthegms of this sincere and impartial Statue put me in mind of those which I read at the Villa Benedettis; all the Walls of that House are lined with Proverbs and Sentences on all subjects, some of which I transcribed, and have here subjoined.  

Chi non s'awentura, non ha ventura.  
He that nothing ventures, nothing wins.   

Regia, crede mihi, res est succurrere lapsis.  
To secure the distressed, is sovereign Virtue.   

Inter cuncta, leges, & percunctabere Doctos,  
Qua ratione potes traducere leniter aevum.  
Consult the Dead and Living wise,  
And square your Life by their Advice.   

Per mangiar assai, convien mangiar puoco.  
He that would eat much, must eat little.   

Cum fata sinunt  
Vivite laeti,—  
Stygias ultro quaerimus undas.  
Let's live while we may,  
And husband to day,  
 we have passed its Noon;  
For we may prodigally waste,  
But never can enjoy too fast  
A Life that ends so soon.   

Splendida magnificis Paupertas regnat in Aulis.  
Courtiers are but gaudy Beggars.   

Chi paga debito, fà capitale.  
He that pays his Debts gets an Estate.   

Qui procul à curis, ille laetus:  
Si vis esse talis,  
Esto ruralis.  
Mirth and Care can ne'er agree  
Where this is absent, that appears;  
The Country only boasts to be  
The Seat of Mirth, and void of Cares.   

Donna virtuosa, non sà star otiosa.  
A virtuous Lady can never be lazy.   

Si qua voles aptè nubere, nube pari,  
Elige cui dicas, Tu mihi sola places?  
How happy's the Man, and how happy is she  
Who are equally yoked, and would never be free?   

Vive tibi, & long Nomina magna fuge.  
Let not Ambition rob thee of thyself.   

Donna che duona, difficiliment è buona.  
A Woman that gives is easily gotten.   

Si Fortuna juvat, caveto tolli.  
Si Fortuna tonat, caveto mergi.  
When Fortune shines, let not its Beams  
Raise Vapours in thy Breast;  
Nor let its thundering Hurricanes  
Disturb thy peaceful Rest.   

Fortiter ille facit, qui miser esse potest.  
That man is brave who dares be miserable.   

Vn nemico è troppo, & cento amici non bastano.  
One Enemy is too much, and an hundred  
Friends are not enough.   

Decet timeri Caesarem, at plus diligi.  
A Prince displays the Glory of the Sovereign Power  
Much in his People's Fear, in their Affection more.   

Sequitur superbos, à tergo Deus.  
The Wrath of Heaven pursues the proud.   

Grand pazzia il viver povero, per morir ricco.  
He's a Fool that lives poor, that he may die rich.   

Quis Dives? qui nil cupiat: Quis pauper? Avarus.  
What Man is happy, great and rich?  
He that nothing doth desire:  
And who's a miserable Wretch?  
He who still does more require.   

Qui nihil potest sperare, desperet nihil.  
He that can hope for nothing, should despair  
of nothing.   

Pax optima rerum:  
Pax Materia Gaudii,  
Dulce Paeis nomen,  
Candidas pax homines, trux decet Ira feras.  
Lasting Bliss and true Delight  
Peace, and only Peace imparts:  
While jarring Brutes contend and fight,  
Let humane Minds seek humane Arts.   

Nobilitas sola est atque unica Virtus.  
Virtue alone is true Nobility.   

Omnes una manet Nox  
Et calcanda semel via Leti.  
'Tis appointed for all Men once to die.   
I'm sorry that I cannot relate to you so many Wonders of Tivoli and Frescati as you seem to expect. They are indeed very pleasant places, and rather than give offence, I will even adventure to call 'em fine places. But, if once this Maxim be established, That when we consider things which are reputed beautiful, we ought to proportion the Esteem that we have for 'em, by comparing 'em one with another; as, the beauty of Roses and Gillyflowers does so darken the fainter lustre of a Field-Daisie, that we pass by it without reflection. If, I say, this Principle be laid down, I must sincerely acknowledge, that if we compare Frescati to Versailles, or even to several other pleasant Seats in France, that are not Royal Houses, I am persuaded, and dare positively affirm, that the celebrated Wonders not only of Frescati, but also of Tivoli, and all the most beautiful places about Rome, I mean as to Gardens and Water-works, deserve no higher Title than that of Pretty Toys.  
Frescati is a very small Town, 
FRESCATI, anciently called Tusculum.  seated on the Brow of a Hill, twelve miles from Rome. There are several Houses of Pleasure in it, of which the three principal are Monte-dracone, belonging to the Prince Borghese, Belvedere to the Prince Pamphilio, and the Villa Ludovisia to the Duchess of Guadagnola the Constable Colonna's Sister; and all deserve no more to be compared to Versailles, than Frescati to Rome, or two or three Trees to a fine Landscape.  
Monte-dracone is a large Structure, situated on a rising Ground, from which you may discover Rome and the whole extent of the interjacent Plain; but that City is at too great a distance to be seen from hence with pleasure, and the Verdure of the Plain is too uniform and unadorned with that variety of Beauties with which a Landscape ought to be embellished. The view of Paris from S. Clou is infinitely more charming. 'Tis true, the Prospect is more diversified on the side of Monte-Porcio, but 'tis also much more limited. The Avenues of this House are very difficult; and, to speak plainly, there are at present neither Fountains nor Gardens about it, that merit a particular description.  
The situation of Belvedere is not unlike to that of Monte-dracone. There is a pretty Cascade in it, and a Grotto, where you may see Apollo with the Nine Muses on Mount Parnassus. We were informed, that all these Statues played on Pipes, when the Machines' were in order.  
The Cascade at the Villa Ludovisia is also the principal Ornament of its Garden. The Furniture of all these three Houses is mean; and every thing about 'em appears neglected.  

TIVOLI, of old Tibur. That which by the ignorant People is called Tivoli Vecchio, is the Villa Hadriani of the Ancients.  Tivoli is another little Town, seated on a Hillock, eighteen miles from Rome; the Duke of Modena has a House of Pleasure in it, which is commonly called the Cardinal d' Este's Palace, because it is set apart for the use of the Cardinals of that Family, when there are any. This Palace is large, and makes a handsome show, but has neither fine Apartments nor Furniture. The greatest Rarities that it can boast of, are three Chambers painted in Fresco, by Raphael, with some ancient Statues. The Garden is not very large, but it is embellished with pleasant Terras-walks and Water-works, which far exceed those at Frescati, and are even thought to excel all the Works of that nature in Italy: but the greatest part of the Canals are unfortunately stopped, the Machines' out of order, and the whole House appears 
* April 8. 1688.  at present in so forlorn and neglected a condition, that 'tis impossible to behold the remainders of its Beauty without a Pleasure mixed with Grief. 'Twould be certainly very unjust to refuse the Praises that are due to a place, which if it be considered singly and by its self, must be acknowledged to have a great many Charms, and to contain a great number of Curiosities: Neither do I pretend in the least to derogate from its true value: My design is only to give a just Idea of it, and to remove those Prejudices with which many persons are possessed concerning it. I will not strive to refute the Opinion of those who believe that the Gardens and Water-works of Italy did formerly surpass those of France; but since the Face of Affairs is altered, we ought also to change our Language. I must confess I was strangely surprised at the sight of the trifling Curiosities of this Country, after I had heard the Water-works of Italy so extravagantly commended, as if there had been nothing in the Universe that could with Justice be compared to 'em. They tell us, that the Palace and Gardens of Este cost Three millions, and I will not pretend to contradict 'em, but I must beg leave to assure them, that Versailles has incomparable Beauties; that the Water-works of that place exceed a million of such as those that are at Tivoli; and that the very Lead of the Canals at Versailles cost ten times more than all Tivoli.  
The Cascade of the 
† In this River are found little white and smooth Flints, which are called the Hail-shot of Tivoli. Du Val.  Treverona is the most remarkable thing in this little Town. This River forms a very large and pleasant Pool, but the Fall is not very high. Not far off are the Ruins of an ancient Building, said to have been the Sibyl's 
* Others pretend that it was a Temple of Hercules.  House; but that is a fabulous Story, which might be refuted by good Arguments. There are in the Court two ancient Statues of a reddish Granite speckled with black, which, in M. Spon's Opinion, do both represent the Goddess Isis. The same Author supposes that Adrian caused 'em to be brought from Egypt to adorn his Pleasure-house at Tivoli.  
The Hill of Tivoli has furnished, Time out of Mind, the greatest part of the Stones that are used at Rome. This Stone is usually called Travertin, by corruption of the word Tyburtin. The Collisea was covered all over with it, and the Front of S. Peter's Church is built with the same. 'Tis plain, that this Stone is excellent for some uses, but it is yellowish and porous, and your Portland Quarry, as well as those at Paris and Caen, are better for service.  
These Quarries put me in mind of a memorable Accident related by Alexander Tassoni, in his Various Thoughts, an account of which will not be unpleasant to you. Not many days 
† He wrote about Fifty years ago.  ago, says that Author, the Workmen that were employed to dig Stone at Tivoli, having cleft a great Mass, observed in the middle of it an empty space, in which they found a living Crayfish that weighed four pounds, which they boiled and eat. I have read in another 
‖ Alexander, Alexandr. Bapt. Fulgosus mentions a living Worm that was found in the middle of a Flint.  Alexander, That he found a wrought Diamond in the heart of a great piece of Marble, and a considerable quantity of sweet and odoriferous Oil in another piece of like Marble. Tassoni also relates, That the same year a Cat suckled a Rat in Tivoli. If these Stories were well attested, I believe you would not be less pleased with 'em than with the Cascades in the Gardens of Este.  
Three miles from Tivoli, 
Lacus Albuneus.  in our way homewards, we passed by a little Lake called Lago de Bagni, or Solfatara, and by the People named the Sixteen Barges, because of a like number of floating Islands that are upon it. It resembles a Pond, being almost round, and Two hundred paces in diameter: its Water is extreme clear, and seems to be of a very blue colour. It sends forth a pretty large Brook, which, after a short and rapid course, loses itself in the Anieno. Both the Lake and Rivulet exhale a sulphureous odour, which is very strong, 
They pretend that the Water of the Anieno is endowed with a singular Virtue to whiten the Teeth, and Ivory. Schrad.  and is smelled at a great distance. The late Cardinal d' Este having in vain attempted to sound the depth of this Lake, persuaded two Divers to enter into it, one of whom was never afterwards seen, and the other related, that he found the Water so hot, tho' at the surface it is cold, that he was not able to descend to any considerable depth. The Land is dry and hollow underneath about the Banks of the Lake, as it appears by the deaf sound made by the treading of Horses upon it. 'Tis probable that the visible part of the Lake is only a narrow Mouth of a vast Abyss, which widens and extends itself under Ground very far on both sides. And I think it may be conjectured concerning the first Diver, that either he ventured too deep, and was surprised by the heat of the Water, or that having wandered into some subterraneous Gulf, he struck his Head against the impending Arch, instead of rising at the Mouth of the Lake. But not to insist upon the first conjecture, we must necessarily conclude, that the Body was carried into some subterraneal Vault, since it never afterwards appeared on the surface of the Water.  
On the Bank of this Lake we saw certain old Ruins, which Antiquaries call the Baths of Agrippa. The largest of the floating Islands makes a perfect Oval, and is about fifteen foot long; they are still crowded together on that side whither the Wind drives 'em; and the least touch puts 'em in motion. Two of our Company went into one of the smallest of 'em, and pushed it from the Land only by thrusting against the Bank with the points of their Swords.  
I have several other Observations to communicate to you concerning the principal Houses of Pleasure in Rome, tho' I do not design to describe 'em particularly, as I intimated to you before.  
The Villa Borghese is, in my Opinion, kept in better order than any that I have hitherto seen. 'Tis certainly a very pleasant place, and fit for a great Prince. The House is almost covered over on the outside with Antique Basso relievoes, which are disposed in so natural an order, and with so much Symmetry, that you would be tempted to think they had been purposely made to fill those places where they are now set. Of all that multitude of Statues with which the Apartments of this Palace are replenished, I shall only take notice of the 
* On the Base 'tis written, 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉. Made by Agasias Son of Dositheus, the Ephesian.  Gladiator, of which you have a Copy in Brass at the end of the Canal in St. James' Park, the Juno of Porphyry, Romulus' Wolf of fine red Marble of Egypt, the Busts of Hannibal, Seneca, and Pertinax, the Hermaphrodite, and the old Silenus holding Bacchus in his Arms.  
The David throwing a Stone out of a Sling at Goliath, the Aeneas carrying his Father, and the Transformation of Daphne, are three modern Pieces made by Bernin, which deserve to be ranked among the first. It would be an endless Labour to enumerate all the fine Pictures. The St. Anthony, by Caracchio, and the Dead Christ, by Raphael, are esteemed the two principal.  
I cannot forbear repeating once more, That the Villa Borghese is a delicious place. If all the Royal Magnificency which adorns some other places does not appear in this with so much Splendour, yet it must be acknowledged, that its Beauties are more soft and charming, such tender and natural Beauties as touch our Hearts more sensibly, if they do not inspire us with so much awe. And even I will add, That Rome being the Source of Antique Statues and Sculptures, some of which are inimitable, all the rest of the World must yield the precedency in this point to the House of a Roman Gentleman.  
As we were walking in the little Flower-Garden, the Gardner made us take notice of a double white Hyacinth, the Root of which, he assured us, cost Five hundred Crowns a year before. I know that Tulips have been sold in Flanders for Four or Five hundred Pistols, so great was the Fondness that some Persons had for these Flowers. We need not longer wonder at the great price of Jewels, since the least durable Beauties in the World are valued at so high a rate.  
The Villa Ludovisia is very much out of repair, by reason of the absence of the Prince of Piombino, who is Lord of it. There is a prodigious multitude of ancient Statues to be seen in this place. The Faustina in love with a Gladiator, whom she embraces before he goes to fight; the two Gladiators, one 
* He is usually called the Dying Mirmillo. There were three principal sorts of Gladiators; Andabates, Retiarii and Myrmillones. Galtruch.  expiring, and the other resting himself; the Statues of Bacchus, Mercury, and Concord, are all admirable Pieces. The best Pictures have been carried to other places, with the richest Furniture; yet they showed us a Bedstead enchased with several sorts of precious Stones, to the value, as we were informed, of Twenty thousand Pistols, but at present 'tis out of order. In the same Chamber we saw a heap of Bones which, they assured us, was the Skeleton of a petrefyed Man; but they are mistaken, for the Bones are not turned to Stone, only they are covered over with a candied Film, or stony Crust, which has given occasion to their Error: Not that I imagine Bones uncapable of Petrefaction, as well as other things, for I believe there is nothing in the World that may not be subject to such an alteration. In the several Cabinets of Curiosities that I have seen in my Travels, I have observed a prodigious Variety of petrefyed Bodies, Fruits, Flowers, Trees, Wood, Plants, Bones, Fishes, Bread, pieces of Flesh, and Animals of all sorts. Pareus relates an Instance of a Child that was turned to a Stone in the Mother's Belly: And which is far more surprising, we are informed by the Histories of our Age, that an entire 
* 
The Town of Biedoblo. See Kircher's Mundus Subterraneus.  
Aventinus in his Bavarian Annals speaks of several Persons in that Country, who as they were milking their Cows were suddenly transformed into Statues of Salt, by the force of certain spirituous Steams, that broke forth in the place where they were, during a great Earthquake in the year 1348.   City in Afric was petrefyed in one night, with Men, Beasts, Trees, Household Furniture, Tools, and every thing that was in the Town, without exception.  
The Villa Chigi abounds with little Water-spouts, which never fail to besprinkle the Curious, if they do not take care to prevent those Showers, by seeing the Gardener when they enter. There is also a Cabinet of Curiosities, of which the little Adrian of Oriental Jasper is the most celebrated Piece.  
The great Alleys of the Villa Montalto or Savelli, with its Statues and Pictures, make it vie with the finest Country-houses about Rome. Here is still to be seen Sixtus the Fifth's little grey Chamber, while he was yet only Cardinal Montalto, and, as you know, a Franciscan. The Germanicus, the Pescennius Niger, the Scipio, the Goddess Naenia, the Adonis, and the Gladiator, are reckoned among the principal Antiquities: And among the Pictures, the Dead Christ by Raphael, the S. Francis by Caracchio, the Virgin and the Bacchus by Guido, with the S. John by Pomarancia.  
The Gardens of the Villa Pamphili, would be in my Opinion the fairest that I have seen, if they were kept in better order: for here I observed a more judicious design, more Symmetry, and a more regular disposition of all the Parts than any where else. The House is adorned on the outside with fine Antique Basso relievoes, like that of the Villa Borghese, and it is no less replenished within; but the best Statues were very much disordered by an Accident which I shall relate to you. The Prince Pamphilio, while he was yet very young, was importunately solicited by the Jesuits to enter into their Society. He was not altogether averse to this motion, and those designing Fathers employed all their Cunning to gain him under a Pretext of Devotion, to which they knew he was very much inclined. Among other Stratagems which they used, they exclaimed loudly against the Indecency of those naked Marble Figures which he kept in this Palace; and the tender Consciences of these rigid Casuists obliged him at length to order several parts of these Statues to be covered. This poor young Prince, to humour his ghostly Fathers, caused Shirts of Plaster to be put on all his Marble Subjects, Men, Women, and Children. This Reformation was very grievous to some persons, especially to Painters, Sculptors, and Antiquaries, but no humane Consideration could prevail with the Priestridden Prince to desist from his pious design to hid so many tempting and dangerous Objects. They were all daubed and plastered over without mercy, save one little Bacchus, who had the good fortune to escape this holy Fury as the young 
* He was afterwards made a Duke.  Lord of Force was preserved from that of the Parisian Massacre. A poor Venus, one of the Masterpieces of the famous Caracchio was smutted all over from head to foot, and transformed into I know not how many Figures, which fill at present the corner of a Picture of which she was formerly the fairest Ornament.  
But the Prince having at last changed his Mind, and being resolved to prefer the Company of his Princess to that of the Society, was desirous to redress all these Disorders, and to restore his good People to their ancient Privileges. In pursuance of this design, he ordered the nasty Clay with which they were covered to be taken off; but the clumsy-fisted Masons had unfortunately mangled several parts of the Marble to make their Plaster stick the better; so that the greatest part of these curious Pieces were very much damaged.  
I must not forget to tell you, that I observed at the Villa Savelli, an unusual Figure of Abraham's Sacrifice by l'Espagnolet; for, whereas Isaac is commonly painted on his Knees, and blindfolded, and his Father with a short two-handed Sword, like a Switzer's, or with a Turkish Scimitar, ready to cut off his Son's Head like a Frenchman; L'Espagnolet has only given him a plain sacrificing Knife, as if he were going to cut Isaac's Throat; which certainly agrees better with the Truth of the History.  
Julius Romanus was the Architect of the Duke of Parma's House of Pleasure, commonly called Vigne Madam. This Building is neither great nor magnificent, but its beauty is regular and unaffected, and its situation extremely delightful. On one side it enjoys a prospect of Rome, with several Gardens, and many pleasant Seats; and on the other the Eye is ravished with a beautiful Landscape of little and well cultivated Hills: over-against it the Tiber creeps through the Fields and Meadows; and at a distance the Snowy tops of the Appennin do insensibly mingle with the Clouds: behind it is a shady Wood of tall Trees, adorned with cool and solitary Walks, which are incomparably charming. The Gardens rise into Terras-walks, and want neither Fountains nor Statues.  
I might add several other Observations concerning the Pleasure-houses of Medicis, Matthei, Lanti, Caesarini, Justiniani, and some others; but I ought to pity you, for I'm confident you could not much longer have Patience to hear of nothing but Statues and Pictures. And besides, 'tis time to put an end to this long Scroll. I am,  
SIR, Your &c, Rome, April 11. 1688.   

LETTER XXV.  
SIR,  
I shall begin this Letter by answering the Questions you Propose concerning the Tiber. 
The Tiber was formerly called Rumon, Terentus, and Albula. It receives forty Rivers before its arrival at Rome, Martian.  'Tis certain that this River has nothing in its self that could have rendered it so famous as it has been; and without doubt it owes the Honour it has to be so generally known, to the Reputation of that Noble City which it waters, unless perhaps some part of its Fame may be ascribed to the noise which its frequent Inundations have made in the World: Nevertheless it must be acknowledged that it has been often treated with too much contempt; the great Rivers are jealous of its Glory, and would have it pass for a muddy Brook, such as I perceive it has been represented to you. But you may reckon that, 
The Bridge of S. Angelo is 330 foot long; and that of Sixtus 300. Some Antiquaries affirm that it was not lawful to build Houses on the Banks of the Tiber, out of respect to that sacred River. But this is an Error, which might be easily refuted. Clandian and several other Authors have left positive accounts of the great number of noble Structures that were erected on the Banks of this River. The greatest Inundation happened under Clement VIII. in the Month of December 1598.  by a general Computation, the breadth of the Tiber at Rome amounts to about three hundred Feet; and besides it is rapid and of a great depth. Suetonius relates, that Augustus caused it to be cleansed, and somewhat enlarged its Channel to facilitate its Course. Other Princes have also endeavoured to prevent the Disorders that attend its Inundations, but with little or no Success. The Sirocco Levant, which is the Southeast of the Mediterranean, and is here called the Sea Wind, does sometimes blow with so terrible an Impetuosity, that it drives back, or at least stops, the Waters of the Tiber at its Mouth. And when it happens at the same time, that the melted Snow of the Apennins swells the Torrents, which fall into that River, or the same effect is produced by continual Rains; the Conjunction of these various Accidents must necessarily increase its Waters, and cause those Inundations, which may be termed the Scourge of Rome, as the fiery Eruptions of Vesuvius are called the Scourge of Naples. There are Inscriptions fastened in several Places against the Walls to denote the Year and Height of the Inundations.  
The Water of this River is always thick and yellowish; but if it be suffered to stand a whole night it grows clear and limpid, and they assured us also that 'tis very good. Nevertheless I perceive that some Persons in all Ages have been at prodigious charge to bring other Waters to Rome, in order to which they have diverted the course of Rivers, pierced Mountains, and built great Aqueducts. And they continue still to make new Attempts to compass the same design. The Aqua Felice was twenty Miles distant from Rome, and cost Pope Sixtus the V near four hundred thousand Crowns to bring it thither. And 'tis probable that 
* Paulus V Pont. Max. aquam in agro Braccinensi saluberrimis ● fontibus collectam, Veteribus aquae Alseatinae ductibus restitutis, novisque additis, XXXV. ab Urbe Milliario duxit. An. Dom. 1612. Pontificatus sui septimo.  Fountain of Montorio cost a great deal more; since its Waters are brought from a much greater distance.  
Since I have mentioned the Montorio, I will add some other Remarks concerning it. There is to be seen on the high Altar of the Franciscan Church, that admirable Picture of the Transfiguration which is the last Work and Masterpiece of Raphael. And not far from hence they visit with great devotion, the Chapel which is built on the very same place where they believe St. Peter was crucified. In the middle of this Chapel they have made a deep hole where they affirm the Cross was fixed. You know what Platina and others have related that St. Peter desired to be crucified with his Head downward, not esteeming himself worthy to suffer in the same manner with Christ. The Picture of this Crucifixion is to be seen at St. Paul's at the three Fountains, by the hand of Guido: And in the same Church they show the Pillar, on which they pretend St. Paul was beheaded. This may serve to exercise the Wits of those Critics, who are lovers of such Curiosities, to show how a Man could be beheaded on a Pillar.  
This Column puts me in mind of another, which we saw some days ago in the Cloister of St. John de Lateran: 'Tis that on which St. Peter's Cock crew. In the same place there is another, which was cleft asunder from top to bottom on the day of the Passion. They show also the Measure of Christ's Height, to which they pretend that never any Person was yet found exactly equal. And here they also keep the 
* It is of Porphyry, four foot long, and three bread.  Stone on which Pilat's Soldiers cast lots for Christ's Garments; the Dice, they say, are at Vnbriatico in Calabria. I will not trouble you with a description of the Altar, that was pierced by a Host which flew out of the Hands of an Incredulous Person, nor of the other Curiosities that are to be seen under the Porticoes of this Cloister. But I cannot forbear telling you that I have seen the bored Chair, about which you desire to be imformed, that was formerly made use of in the Ceremony instituted to prevent all doubts concerning 
† After the Examination of the Witnesses, they cried with a loud voice, 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Mas nobis Dominus est. We have a Male Lord or Pope, Leo Calchond.— alta voice exclamabant Testiculos habet, dignus est Papali corona.— at nemo jam ad Pontificatum promovetur, qui suae Virilitatis, non dederit antea satis efficax testimonium. I. I. Boissard. They proclaimed aloud, says that Author, He has Stones, and is worthy of the Papal Crown. But, adds he, none are now advanced to the Pontifical dignity, who have not already given sufficient Proofs of their Virility.  the Pope's Sex. 'Tis a kind of armed Chair of one single Piece of Porphyry.  
Whether the Reason and End of that search gave occasion to the ancient use of this Chair; or it was made only to put the Popes in mind that they were not Gods, but Men, and subject to all human infirmities; or whether that Ceremony was ordained for both these ends together, as Platina seems to think, who speaks very obscurely on this occasion, is a Controversy which I am as willing as you, to leave undecided. But as for the She-Pope I am resolved to take another Course, and since you have given me a fair occasion to add some Reflections to all that has been said, by so many different Persons on this subject, I must tell you freely, that I find not the least solidity either in your Objections, or any of those that have been raised by others against the Truth of this History.  
'Tis true, some Protestant Authors have rejected it as a Fable, as well as the Roman Catholic Doctors of these last Ages: Whether the Former did really esteem it to be such, or were acted by a Spirit of Singularity, or a certain sort of Complaisance which might have been very well spared, I will not pretend to determine; but every Man will have his humour: And you must not blame me, if I am resolved to believe my own Eyes. Let us consider the matter of Fact then, and examine the Arguments on both sides, with all possible Brevity.  
I cannot perceive the least shadow of a Reason, that should hinder us from ranking this Adventure among an infinite number of other extraordinary Events recorded in History, to which we cannot without Injustice refuse to give credit. We find 
* Blondel acknowledges Seventy one Greek and Latin, Canonised Writers and others.  Seventy or Eighty Authors, who have at several times related the same thing. These Authors are Men of Sense, whom no consideration, either of Profit or Honour, could have prompted to make such a Declaration: Quite the contrary, the Interest of their Religion, and Fear of Punishment might have deterred 'em from publishing that Adventure. What Folly then, or rather Madness must we suppose so many grave Authors to have been seized with, which could entice 'em to invent a Fable of this nature, with all the Circumstances that attend it: And what Evidence or Authority can henceforth persuade us to believe that which we never saw.  
I must acknowledge it to be my Opinion, that the airy and humorous Wit of Incredulity never made a worse Figure than on this occasion. But you will perhaps tell me that they do not insist upon a bare Negation of the matter of Fact, but that they allege several weighty Arguments to confirm their Opinion, which deserve to be considered, and that after a careful and serious Examination of the whole Controversy, they find reason to conclude that the History of the pretended She-Pope is an ill-contrived Fable.  
Very well, Sir, I will hear these boasted Arguments, immediately, and perhaps confute 'em too; but first give me leave to tell you, that when a matter of Fact which does not imply a Contradiction, is positively attested by sufficient Authority; we must not pretend to call the Truth of the History in question, merely on the Score of certain Criticisms, on some intricate and not common Passages in it. In the present case we produce a multitude of Authors of undoubted Credit, who confirm the Truth of our Assertion; and all your halfdifficulties can never invalidate the Testimony of so many credible Witnesses. The controversy must he decided by the force of Authorities; and whatever reluctancy you may have to confess yourself foiled, you must either quit the Cudgels or defend yourself better.  
The Question is not whether it would be an easy matter at this time of the 
* We must also consider the difference of Times. That was an Age of Ignorance, Stupidity and Confusion. But the Times are altered; and men are not now so easily bubbled as formerly. We live in an Age that is wonderfully improved in Craftiness and Subtlety; how little reason soever we have to boast of our Improvements in Probity and Goodness.  Day, to set the triple Crown on the Head of a disguised Wench. Without doubt such an Attempt would be ridiculous; and the Non-impossibility of the success, would be an ill Argument to justify the Prudence of the Undertaker: But we must not reason concerning what is already past, as we do of that which is still to come. We daily see long Series' of extraordinary and unexpected Adventures, the truth of which we do not at all question, tho' none but a Madman would fancy himself able to achieve such Enterprises.  
'Tis certain than that the word Difficulty is equivocal; and that the Arguments that are grounded upon it, are for the most part mere Sophisms. There may be a great deal of Difficulty in the performance of a thing, and yet the very same thing may be sometimes easily done, and as easily believed after it is done. 
* See afterwards page.  The Swisser William Tell had reason to say it was a very difficult Task to shoot down with an Arrow, the Apple that was placed on the Head of his Child. Yet if we consider attentively the nature of the thing, we must acknowledge there was no reason to suppose that the motion of the Arrow should be guided to any other particular part, than to the Apple. Should I desire you to find out some simple Shepherdess, and to persuade her to take a Helmet and Sword, to ask of the King the supreme Command of an Army, and afterwards to fight and rout his Enemies, you would be apt to imagine that I were either mad or had a design to abuse you. But if you call to mind the Story of the 
‡ Joan of Arc, a poor Shepherdess of the Village of Damremy on the  at the Age of 18. or 20. years, she was entrusted by Charles the VII. with the Command of part of his Forces. She relieved Orleans, beat the English, reconquered Champaign, and caused the King to be solemnly inaugurated. See Mezeray in the Life of Charles the VII. Ann. 1429.  Maid of Orleans, who was both a Shepherdess and a great General; you must change your Opinion, and own that the Possibility of the thing is a sufficient Reason why you should not contradict the Truth of it.  
All that has been said may be easily applied to our Popes; but without insisting longer on the Comparison, I challenge you to renounce all those shadows of Arguments which you ground on some pretended difficulties, if I can make it appear that these difficulties are not unanswerable▪ and that the controverted Story is probable or 〈◊〉 least possible.  
Rid yourself I beseech you of your unjust Prejudices against the Capacity of the Female Sex. A thousand Examples of lllustrious Women might suffice to convince us that it is only the want of that Education which we enjoy, that makes 'em seem incapable of the Management of Affairs; though there were not other Reasons to force our Assent to so evident a Truth.  

* See afterwards page  Let not the Beardless Chin of Her Holiness perplex you: For a Beard has not always bee● thought a necessary Qualification for a Pope▪ And even the Papal Throne has been sometimes filled by 
† Benedict the IX. was made Pope at the Age of ten years; some say eleven; and others twelve; but however 'tis certain that he was a Child; all agree that he was one of the most monstrous and abominable Creatures that ever lived in the World. John the XII (alias XIII) was also chosen Pope before he was eighteen years old.  Youths that could not have been distinguished from Women by their Chins. Besides, you know 
* I might easily make a long Catalogue of Women who have discharged all sorts of Offices, and have passed for Men.  Semiramis performed the Office of a King, in the Quality and Habit of a Man▪ and why might not our Germane Lady act the Pope under a like disguise. And what do you▪ or I know, whether they were not both of the number of those Viragoes who have a Masculine mien, and are not destitute of Beards. S● long as your mind is full of the Idea of a Maid Young, Soft, Pleasant, Innocent, Fearful, without Knowledge and Experience, and Clothed as other Women are, you will never be able to lay aside your Prejudices. But if instead of that young Idiot, you represent to yourself some bold Virage, some CHRISTINA with a Masculine Voice and hairy Chin; some learned, witty and daring Creature disguis'dlike a Man, all your Prejudices will vanish, and you will quickly acquiesce in the Truth and Evidence of our History. 
‡ Aristotle tells us that the Prophetess of Caria in Asia minor, were bearded Women.  And after you have made these Suppositions which are certainly very reasonable, you will find it as easy to advance a Woman so qualified to the Papal Chair, as a begging Vagabond, such as Adrian the iv or a Swineherd like Sixtus the V And several other Popes who have been raised to that Dignity from the lowest degree of Meanness.  
But, you proceed, how can it seem probable that a Woman could so long hid her great Belly, and at last be so much a Fool as to expose herself to the Danger of being delivered of a Child in the midst of a solemn Procession.  
I answer, in the first place, that probable, or not probable 'tis all one to me, so long as the thing is Possible. But secondly, as to the first part of your Objection, I say, that a Woman may contrive several ways to prevent the Discovery of such a Secret, especially when she is generally believed to be a Man: And if any of your Friends should be troubled with a swelling in his Belly, would you presently imagine him to be with Child. In the third place, I shall offer two considerations in answer to what you allege concerning the Imprudence of our Female Pope. The first is, that we sometimes meet with unavoidable Difficulties, through which we must force a passage over all the dangers that attend 'em. And the other is, that we have no reason to believe that she was come to the end of her ninth Month, when this Misfortune happened. 'Tis not improbable that she was delivered before her due time, or at least the thing is possible; which being allowed, she can neither be accused of Imprudence, nor we have any reason to wonder that she was able to conceal her great Belly.  

If Chronological Difficulties amount to a sufficient Argument against the Existence of Pope Joan: By the same reason we may conclude that several other Popes are mere imaginary Names.  But you tell me, that Chronologers do not agree in their calculations about the Time of this accident. 'Tis true they do not, and the reason of their difference is obvious. They who expunge our Popess' Name out of the Catalogue of Popes, are obliged dexterously to lengthen the Lives of her Predecessors to fill up the Breach which they have made. But as you have Chronological Supputations that are accommodated to your Opinion, so I have others that are agreeable to mine: And therefore our Controversy must be decided by other Arguments.  
The Objection which is grounded on her Voyage to Athens, under pretence that the Studies that were prosecuted there at that time, were not suitable to a young Scholar, is a mere frivolous Cavil. For in the first place you suppose without the least proof, that she was a young Scholar at the time of her Voyage; and what reason can you allege, why I may not suppose that she was old enough to be admitted among the Hearers of the Athenian Philosophers, or other Professors in that Academy? But secondly, I observe that some of those Authors who relate this History, carry her strait to Rome without mentioning Athens.  
You will perhaps look upon this Concession as very advantageous to your Party, and reproach me with the Contradictions of my Authors; but I can easily ward this Blow. Consider, I beseech you, that the same Action as to the Main is not always related with the same Circumstances; and even Sacred History might furnish me with several Instances of such Variations. I acknowledge indeed, that we ought not to rely upon the Testimony of a Historian who contradicts himself: but though we should observe some circumstantial differences between two Authors who relate the same thing, but live perhaps in different Countries; we could not in Justice give these Variations the ignominious name of Contradictions, but only conclude that they were occasioned either by forgetfulness, want of necessary Intelligence, or some Ambiguity in the Expression. Besides, if there had been a Combination of false Witnesses to cheat the World, and if they had deliberately invented the pretended Fable of Pope Joan; they would certainly have taken better measures, and agreed upon the Circumstances of the story. 'Tis plain then, that such petty Variations do not destroy, nor so much as weaken the Credit of a Relation. A remarkable Event makes a great noise in the World, and Men both talk and write variously concerning it.  
Your last and (in your opinion) strongest Argument is grounded on the silence of those Authors, who were Joan's Cotemporaries: This seems to make a great Impression upon you; but you must give me leave to tell you, that it is as weak and trifling as the rest. 
* A Scottish Monk who died in the Abbey of Fuld in Germany, about the 58. year of his Age, 1086. Bellarmin gives him the Character of a diligent Writer.  Marianus Scotus 
† A very learned Monk of the Abbey of Gemblours, who died about the beginning of the Twelfth Age.  Sigebert, and some other more 
‡ Several Authors related this History before Marianus Scotus.  ancient Authors who relate this History, five or six hundred years ago, did probably take it from those who wrote before 'em; 
* Anastasius, called the Bibliothecary, was a Roman Abbot, a Man of learning and great Merit: And Pope Joan's Cotemporary.  for it is not at all credible that they invented it, for the Reasons that I alleged before. But besides, your Argument is grounded upon a false supposition; for the Editions of Anastasius that have escaped Gelding give an exact account of the whole story. And I must likewise add, that though we could not find the least mention of a Female Pope in any Author of the Ninth Age, you could not from thence infer, that they were all silent in this case. For before the Invention of Printing, the Monks left no means  to suppress all that seemed contrary to their Interest; and several other Accidents have occasioned the loss of a great number of good Books.  
Besides, we have no reason to wonder that a History of this Nature was kept very secret: since Fear and Shame were Motives strong enough to impose silence on the Writers of that Age. There are some things which are never divulged till after a certain time; Some Princes that are detested by all the World, have been flattered during the Age in which they lived, whom Posterity, not awed by Fear, has 
* See the Beginning of the next Letter.  painted forth in the most hideous colours.  
After all, I cannot conceive what should make the Church of Rome so unwilling to own her She Pope, as if Monstruous Popes were Rarities. I am sure Cardinal Baronius makes no scruple to bestow that Title on a great number of 'em. And as for Vacancies, there have been some that have lasted longer than the whole time of her Pontificate: You know there was an Interregnum of almost nine Years between Nicholas the I. and Adrian the II. Nor can they want a remedy for the Nullity of Administration; for the Ministers of the Court of Rome have Salves for all Sores.  
But, all things being duly considered, I would willingly know, what it is in this Adventure that appears so strange and surprising. Is there any Contradiction or Prodigy in it, or even any thing that is rare and wonderful? As for me, I assure you, I can perceive nothing but what is very natural and easy. If, as I intimated before, instead of an innocent Agnes, you suppose a Creature, whose Manners, Capacity, Humour and outward Behaviour represent a Man; I cannot imagine upon what grounds you can raise the least shadow of an Objection.  
If I thought it necessary to imitate Henry Stephen in the Introduction to his Apology for Herodotus, I could quickly find a sufficient number of stranger Events, than that for which I contend, to fill a whole Volume. But without wand'ring from the Subject of our Controversy, or leaving the Holy See, tell me, I pray you, whether any Person that were a perfect stranger to the History of the Popes, would suffer himself to be persuaded, that these Gentlemen retaining still the quality of Priests, have notwithstanding raised themselves to the Empire of the Christian World, and to the Power, and even the Practice, 
These are all Historical Instances of unquestioned Truth.  of distributing Sceptres, treading Crowned Heads under their Feet, inflicting ignominious Punishments upon 'em, as on guilty Slaves, and 
* 
LEWIS, the Great Subverter of the World,  
Who spared no Crime to please his frantic Humour;  
A wicked Son, and an unnatural Father,  
An unjust Brother, and a Faithless Husband,  
A thankless Master, and a dangerous Friend;  
Reigned without Counsel, Piety, or Justice,  
Fraud was his Sport, his Virtue was a Cheat, etc.  
Mezeray, concerning Lewis XI.   driving 'em out of their Kingdoms by the Terror of their anathemas? Or could our supposed Stranger, d'ye think, be made to believe that some extravagant Flatterers have presumed to ascribe to those Priests a Power to turn Virtue into Vice, and Vice into Virtue; to excommunicate Angels, and to dispense with the Apostolical and Evangelical Laws? I would also desire you to employ some hours in perusing the old Legends, for the new ones are not so curious; and there you will find a numerous Medley of Stories related as sacred Truths, that will not only appear incredible to you, but such monstrous Fables, as Posterity will hardly be induced to believe that ever any persons in the World were capable of inventing and writing 'em.  
I shall add but one word more: When People in after-Ages shall read the History of what has lately happened to the Protestants of France, written by a Maimbourg, a Varillas, a Bishop of Meaux, and others of that Gang, who strive to out do one-another, in exalting the sweetness and extreme Moderation with which those unfortunate Creatures were used in that Execution; can it be supposed that these future Readers will believe, or even imagine that there are no Cruelties so barbarous which these poor Protestants did not suffer?  

Prostat Liber palam ac publice hic (scilicet P●risiis) impressus, & hodie ut olim venalis: Taxa Camerae seu Cancellariae Apostolicae, quibus plus scelerum discas licet, quam in omnibus vitiorum Symmystis & Summariis. Claud. Esp. Ep. ●d Tit. c. 1.  I cannot forbear mentioning another incredible Prodigy, which just now comes into my Mind. I mean the Book entitled, The Rates of the Apostolical Chamber. Who could have believed that the Vicar of Christ would compose a List of enormous Crimes and unheard of Impieties, with the Price of 
* Gaude Mater nostra Roma, quoniam aperiuntur Cataractae Thesaurorum in terra, ut ad te confluant rivi & aggeres nummorum in magna copia. Laetare super iniquitate filiorum hominum, quoniam in recompensationem tantorum malorum, datur tibi pretium. Jocundare super adjutrice tua discordia, quia erupit de puteo infernalis abyssi, ut accumulentur tibi multa pecuniarum praemia. Habes quod semper sitisti, decanta canticum, quia per malitiam hominum▪ non per tuam Religionem orbem vicisti, Ad te trahit, non ipsorum devotio aut pura conscientia, sed scelerum multiplicium perpetratio, & litium decisio pretio comparata. Cour. Abbas Ursp. 
— Venalia nobis  
Templa, Sacerdotes, Altaria, Sacra, Coronae,  
Ignis, Thura, Preces, Coelum est venale, Deusque, B. Mant.   Absolutions to be granted for 'em? I bought this Book three days ago in Rome. 'Tis true, they are ashamed of it, they have endeavoured by all means to suppress it, and it is inserted in the Index Expurgatorius of the Council of Trent; but the Blot will never be wiped off; and after all these Grimaces, Dispensations are sold here daily.  
Before I bid adieu to Pope Joan, I must not forget to put you in mind of what 
† Mezeray in the Life of Charles the Bald.  Mezeray writes concerning the Story that is the subject of our Controversy, That this Opinion was generally received as an undoubted Truth, for the space of Five hundred years.  
If you desire to know the reason why the Use of this Chair is laid aside, the following Epigram by 
‖ John, Bishop of the Five Churches in Pannonia, or Hungary.  Pannonius will satisfy your Curiosity.  
Non poterat quisquam reserantes Aetherae Claves  
Non exploratis sumere Testiculis.  
Cur igitur nostro mos hic nunc tempore cessat?  
Ante probat quod se quilibet esse Marem.  
Or this: 
Les petits Enfans qu'ils font,  
Sont preuves assez r●é●es,  
Que les Saints Peres ne sont  
Ni Coquatres, ni Femelles.  The Sense of both which may be thus expressed; 

Of old,  Popes had learned to kiss,  
None were (than sure they kept no Miss)  
Made Porters of the Bower of Bliss,  
Till Reverend Fist had groped 'em:   

But now, thank Heaven, 've surer Signs;  
For th' Offspring of their Sacred Loins  
Displays the Vigour of their Groins  
Before they claim the Popedom.    
Pasquin's Verses on Paul TWO, and Innocent VIII, are much to the same purpose: 
Pontificis 
* Paul II.  Pauli Testes ne Roma requiras;  
Filia quam genuit sat docet esset marem.  
Octo 
† Innocent VIII.  Nocens Pueros genuit, totidemque Puellas  
Hunc merito poteris dtcere, Roma Patrem.   
The Church of 
‖ So called from Plan. Lateranus, a Roman Lord, who had Gardens in this place. He was killed by Nero's Order, after he had been nominated to the Consulship.  St. John de Lateran is very large and magnificent; She assumes also the lofty Title of the 
‡ 
These two Verses are engraved on the Portico;  
Dogmate Papali, datur simul Imperiali,  
Ut sim Cunctarum Mater, Caput Ecclesiarum.   Head and Mother of all Churches. Sixtus V built a vast Palace near this Church 
* I hear that it was since made a Hospital. , which was never inhabited.  
Near adjoining to that Building is the Lodge called Sancta Scala, from the 28 Steps that were transported thither. They are of white Marble, very much worn; and they pretend that these are the Steps by which Christ ascended to Pilat's House. At present none are permitted to ascend 'em but 
‡ There are two little Stairs, one on each side, by which those that please are permitted to walk up to the Sancta Sanctorum.  kneeling, which cannot be done without trouble; but to make amends for that, they obtain at every Step Indulgences for Three years and as many times Forty days. The Chapel at the top of the Stairs is called Sancta Sanctorum, or the Holy of Holies, from an Image of Christ, which, they believe, was made by Angels, and is religiously preserved there. I have seen this Piece, and can assure you, it is very ugly and ill shaped. Women never enter into this most Holy place.  
In our return from the Sancta Scala, we passed by St. Marry major, which is a vast and magnificent Structure A certain Roman Lord full of Devotion to the Virgin, being one night warned in a Dream to go next morning to Mount Esquilin, and there to build a Church to the honour of the Mother of God, in the place where he should find Snow; and Pope Liberius having also had the same Vision, they walked together to the place appointed. It was on the Fifth of 
† Ann. 355.  August, yet they found Snow, which they removed with their own Hands, and immediately laid the Foundations of this Temple.  
You never saw any thing more rich or finely built than the Chapels of 
‖ Dominick Fontana was the Architect of this Chapel We were informed, that it cost Seven hundred thousand Roman Crowns  Sixtus V and Paul V in the last of which they preserve the Manger of Bethlehem, and an Image of the Virgin made by St. Luke, about which they have several times found Angels singing Litanies.  
Not far from thence is the little Church of St. Anthony, whither all the Horses of the City are brought on that Saints Festival, to receive a Benediction at the Door of the Church.  

Castel-Gandolfo is 16 miles distant from Rome.  But to change the Subject of my Observations, that their Variety at least may please you, I shall in the next place give you some account of our Voyage to Castel-Gandolfo. This House has nothing remarkable in it, tho' it belongs to the Pope. Cardinal H— has an Apartment in it; and sometimes goes to pass a few days there, where he may be free from the Encumbrances of the Ceremonies of Rome, than which nothing can be more troublesome to a Cardinal.  
During our short stay at this place, we took several turns into the adjacent Country: About a mile from the Castle we visited the little Town of Albano, 
ALBANO.  where the famous City of Alba was formerly seated, extending, according to the common Belief, from the brink of the Lake of Castle Gandolfo to the new Town of Albano; but this Opinion is controverted, and I will not undertake to decide the Question.  
We saw at Albano a kind of Tower or ruin'd Mausoleum, commonly called the Tomb of Ascanius; but this Opinion seems only to be grounded on a very uncertain Tradition.  
But I may speak more positively of another ancient Tomb near Albano, which is generally believed to be the Sepulchre of the Two Horatij, and the Three Curiatij. 'Tis plain, that the Five Pyramids which are on the Tomb have given occasion to this Opinion; but this Reason is of no force, for Titus Livius expressly affirms, That the Sepulchers of these Heroes were erected in the same places where each of 'em expired; those of the Horatij towards Alba, and those of the Curiatij nearer Rome.  
The Lake of castle Gandolfo is, as we were informed, six or seven miles in compass; and the rising Grounds which environ it form an exact Amphitheatre. There are two parts where the depth of the Lake cannot be sounded; but, which is more wonderful, its Waters do from time to time suddenly swell, and rise to the very top of the Banks, which doubtless proceeds from its communication with subterraneous Gulfs, that disgorge themselves into it.  
Half a mile from thence, near Gensana, we saw another little Lake, called by the Moderns Lago di Nemi, and by the Ancients Speculum Dianae, from a Grove and Temple consecrated to that Goddess, which were formerly on the Bank of this Lake.  
Between Albano and Castel-Gandolfo, we observed the Ruins of an Amphitheatre, and were surprised to behold certain great Trees among 'em, that had formerly taken root, and, in a wonderful manner, wrought a passage for themselves between the best cemented Stones and Bricks, which they have cleft asunder, and pierced the Walls, where they are grown great in spite of all opposition.  

Mittit praecipuos nernoralis Aricia Porros. Mart.  The whole Country about Albano and Gensana is fruitful; the Wine especially and Fruits which it produces are much esteemed. The Inhabitants do still observe their ancient Custom of cultivating Leeks and Onions with a great deal of care.  
Since I have already entertained you with an account of the Houses of Pleasure in the Neighbourhood of Rome, I will also add some Observations concerning the chief Palaces in the City. But I will not insist long upon 'em, that I may avoid telling you what you know already.  
The Catalogue of the Antiquities which we saw at the Palace Justiniani, amounts to 1867, and that of the rare Pictures to 638. Nero's Head, the Minerva, Venus coming out of a Bath, and the three little Cupids sleeping and leaning upon one another, are the most esteemed Pieces.  
Cardinal Chigi's Palace is one of the finest Houses in Rome. All the Gates are overlaid with Antique green Marble. Among the Statues, the two Venus', Marsias flayed, and the dying Gladiator, are chief remarkable.  

Ant. de St. Gallo begun it.  You have heard, without doubt, that Michael Angelo was the principal Architect of the 
* 
Tertius has Paulus struxit Farnesius aedes,  
Quarum forma oculos ponitur ante tuos.  
Aspicis immensos, Hospes, qui frontis honores,  
His similes dices, Roma nec Orbis habet.   Farnesian Palace. The Front of this beautiful Structure is 180 foot broad, and 90 foot high. The Gates, Cornerpieces, Cross-bars of the Windows, Cornish, and all the principal Stones were taken from the Colliseum. I shall take this occasion to tell you, that a great part of this admirable Monument has by such means been destroyed. The great Palace of the Chancery, as well as 
* St. Laurence in Damaso.  St. Lawrence's Church, is almost wholly built with its spoils: and even some parts of the City-walls have been repaired with the same. Instead of repairing and preserving those precious Remainders of Antiquity after the Example of Sixtus V, to whom Rome owes the greatest part of its beauty, some brutish persons endeavour to complete the destruction of its Ornaments. Innocent VIII. broke the Arch of Gordian to build a Church. Alexander VI demolished the beautiful Pyramid of Scipio, to pave the Streets with its Stones. The Marble Steps which serve for an Ascent to the Church of Ara Coeli, were taken from a Temple of Romulus. St. Blaise's Church was erected out of the spoils of a Temple of Neptune; St. Nicholas' of the Soul is built out of the Ruins of the Circus agonalis; and I might easily add several other Instances.  
All the World knows, that the Farnesian 
* It is the Work of Glycon a Grecian Sculptor. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉.  Hercules and Bull are two famous Pieces. The Gallery by Caracchio, the Hall by Salviati, the Venus and the Adonis by Titian, are also universally known.  
The Library in the Palace Altieri is numerous and in good order. The Staircase is very fine: 
At the foot of the Stair there is a Statue of a Captive King, which was found four or five hundred years ago in the Place called Navona. Spon.  The Apartments are great, and adorned with rare Pictures and magnificent Furniture. Here I observed a Looking glass of Crystal of the Rock ten inches long, and six broad, in a golden Frame, covered all over with Jewels of great value.  
They also magnified extremely a little Earthen Dish, which is carefully preserved in a very rich Frame, as being painted by Raphael. It is of the same kind of work with those Vessels at Loretto, which I mentioned before. And I saw some more of 'em here that are preserved with equal Esteem, or rather Veneration.  
Perhaps I should not have had the Courage singly to attack that common Prejudice that puts the Reputation of Raphael in a Threepenny Dish, which he never saw or touched; tho' I am pretty well acquainted with the History of that Artist, and had several good Arguments to confute that Opinion. But having had the Fortune to discourse with the famous Carlo Marotti on the same subject, I dare confidently assure you, that Raphael never drew a stroke on any of these Dishes, notwithstanding the great value that is set upon 'em, and the commonness of the contrary Opinion. I acknowledge indeed, that these Pictures have some resemblance to Raphael's way of working, from which we may probably infer, that either they were made by some of his Scholars, or in imitation of some of his Designs.  

The Palace contaons Four thousand Chambers.  The Palace Barberini, called the Palaestrin, is reputed to be the greatest in Rome next to the Vatican. Among its Antiquities, which are very numerous, the little Diana of Oriental Alabaster is particularly esteemed. The Tullia, Daughter of Servius Tullius, and Wife of Tarquin the proud, is a very rare Piece, and said to be the only one of the kind in Rome. I observed also the God Osiris, with his Hawk's Head on a Human Body, which was found with the Obelisk of Minerva, under the Ruins of Isis' Temple.  
In this Palace also I took notice of a Marble Bust of Pope Vrban VIII, which was made by a blind man, and yet is the best Representation we have of that Pope.  
The other Palace Barberini towards the four Fountains, is a heap of Rarities, Antiquities, and all sorts of Curiosities. They assured us, that its Library contains Forty thousand Volumes.  
The first Halls of the Palace Colonna are adorned with the Pictures of 
* Adrian I. and Martin V, two of the honestest Popes that ever filled the Chair.  two Popes, nineteen Cardinals, and fifty four Generals of Armies, all descended from the noble and ancient House of the Colonna's. There are in the same Palace nine great Apartments, Eight thousand original Pictures, a little Arsenal, Busts, antique Basso-relievo's, Statues, and a great deal of rich Furniture.  
I will not insist upon the Architecture of these Palaces, for I'm persuaded I cannot inform you of any thing of that nature, with which you are not already acquainted. I think I told you before, that 'tis much more usual in this place to cover the Houses with ridged than flat Roofs, tho' people generally differ much in their Opinions concerning these two ways of building. Those sharppointed Roofs that are almost equal in height to the Body of the Edifice, are in some measure contrary to Reason, by destroying the symmetry and decent proportion that ought to be between the whole, or at least the main body, and the other less remarkable parts of a Building. But, since you are desirous to know my Opinion, I must tell you, that I prefer the middle way found out by our famous Mansard before your flat Roofs.  
Besides, you must give me leave to entreat you to lay aside that partial Opinion you seem to have of the Roman Architecture in general. It must be acknowledged, that there are in this place very beautiful Structures, both ancient and modern, but you must not imagine that every thing is in perfection; for here, as well as in other places, there are certain modes of Building peculiar to the Age and Country, and not at all conformable either to the Regularity or Magnificence of Architecture.  
I thank you for your excellent Remarks on those admirable Egyptian Obelisks, which are at present to be seen in this City, and aught, in my Opinion, to be reckoned among its noblest Ornaments. I have learned many curious things from what you have written on this subject, and therefore am obliged in Justice to answer the Questions you propose, and at the same time to give the best solution I can of some of your Doubts concerning those rare Monuments.  
All the Obelisks in Rome are quadrangular, and end in a sharp point. They resembled the Rays of the Sun, that great Divinity adored by the Egyptians under the name of Osiris, and esteemed by 'em to be the Habitation of Being's, Genius's, and the Souls of the Universe. Their Angles respected the four Corners of the World, and denoted the four Elements.  
The Hieroglyphic Characters on these Obelisks have been supposed by some to contain the Eulogies of some Princes, or Histories of certain memorable Transactions; and they believe that these Monuments were erected by the Egyptians, both to serve for Ornaments, and to honour the Heroes of their Nation: but those who have penetrated furthest into these Mysteries, have, in my opinion, demonstrated clearly, that these were open Books, which exposed to the Eyes of the public the Secrets of their Divinity, Astrology, Metaphysics, Magic, and all the other Sciences that were cultivated by the Egyptians. 'Tis certain, that the Vulgar was not capable of unriddling the Mysteries of these Oracles; but then, as well as now, the unthinking part of Mankind amused themselves with Shadows and Obscurities.  
All these Obelisks are of Granite, which is a kind of very hard and lasting Marble, and able, as they assured us, to resist the Fire for a considerable time. 
There is not one of 'em that was made at Rome.  Without doubt the solidity of the Matter was one of the Reasons that recommended it to their choice. The Obelisk of St. John de Lateran has subsisted Three thousand years; and that of 
* We were informed, that it weighs 956148 pounds.  St. Peter is Nine hundred years older. The first is the greatest of 'em all, being 108 foot high, without reckoning either the Pedestal or the Cross. There are also some Granites of Corsica in this place, but they have not so fine a Grain as those of Egypt. I am,  
SIR, Your &c. Rome, April 24. 1688.   

LETTER XXVI.  
SIR,  
YEsterday, upon a second perusal of your Letter, I observed a marginal Note that I had not taken notice of before, in which you desire me to consider what Mr. Cheureau has written concerning Pope Joan, in the second part of his History of the World, and to give you an account of my Thoughts of his Arguments against that Story, which makes me conclude that you have a good opinion of 'em. However, Sir, I am ready to obey you; for I have read Mr, Chevreau's Book, and have made some Reflections on that passage in it.  
In the first place he acknowledges, that a considerable number of famous Authors have mentioned that Story, and positively asserted the Truth of it. Now, according to the known Rules of Justice and Reason, this concession alone is sufficient to decide the Controversy; for when several Witnesses of unquestioned credit do unanimously attest a Matter of Fact, we are obliged to believe their Testimony, if the thing be possible, and we have no Evidence to the contrary, more especially if these Witnesses speak against their own Interest.  
These Authorities, says Mr. Cheureau, have made a strong impression on credulous Minds▪ but the more judicious and cautious part of Mankind, relying on the Silence of several other Authors, have examined and rejected this Fable. This is certainly a very strange and surprising Maxim, Seventy or Eighty Men, who cannot with the least appearance of Justice be suspected of a Design to cheat the World, who were all of the Roman Religion, almost all Clergy men, and even some of 'em Canonised Saints; all these Authors, I say, 
* This is acknowledged by the Roman Catholics.  do positively affirm, That there was a Female Pope. Other Authors make no mention of her; and the Silence of these must invalidate the Testimony of the former. May we not probably suppose, that 
† That Pope was made a Cardinal at the age of fourteen years. It is agreed by all Historians, that he was an impious Person.  Leo X. reasoned after the same manner, when he called the Gospel The Fable of Christ. Some Authors bear witness to the History of our Saviour; others who lived at the same time do not mention it, and that judicious and cautious Pope relying on the Silence of so many Writers, examined and rejected the Story. I will not lose time to demonstrate the weakness of this way of reasoning, it destroys itself, and does not merit a serious confutation.  
Mr. Cheureau assures us, that Anastasius the Bibliothecary makes no mention of our Popess; which is also the great and boasted Argument of Onuphrius, but they are both mistaken; you may consult Mr. le Sueur's Ecclesiastical History, and Colomesius' Historical Miscellanies, where you will find an Anastasius of the French King's Library, containing an exact account of the Female Pope; besides two other Copies of 
* Mar. Freher and Salmasius saw these Copies: nor does Blondel disown 'em.  the same Author at Augsburg, and one at Milan, which relate the same Story. These Books will also inform you how the Jesuits of Mentz having suffered only two Copies to be wrought off, conform to the Original, had the Impudence to 
* This they themselves confess to be true.  suppress all that displeased 'em in the rest of this Edition.  

Anastasius wrote the Lives of the Popes to Nicholas ●, who succeeded Benedict the Third.  Before I take leave of Anastasius, I must entreat you seriously to weigh the Authority of his Testimony. He was a man of Learning, he lived at Rome, and was co-temporary with our Popess: He speaks as an Eye-witness, and two words of such an Author are sufficient to destroy all the frivolous Objections and little Shifts of those who contradict the Truth of this Relation.  
In the next place I shall proceed to consider Mr. Chevreau's Reflections on 
† M. Polonus flourished in the middle of the Thirteenth Age.  Martinus Polonus, or the Polander, Archbishop of Cosenza, and Penitentiary to 
‖ Some Authors write, That he discharged the same Office under Nicholas III.  Innocent IU. M. Cheureau calls him a silly Monk, and alleges three or four poor Reasons to prove his Simplicity. Since that Monk, says he, in his Treatise of the Wonders of Rome, mistakes the Gate of Ostia, or of St. Paul, and of Capena, and St. Sebastian, for another which he calls Collina, instead (as we may probably suppose) of Collatina or Pinciana, the Pantheon for a Temple of Cybele, and the Amphitheatre for a Temple of the Sun, we may the more easily forgive that Blunder in his History, where he mistakes a Pope for a Popess. In answer to these Reflections, I say in the general, That tho' M. Polonus were really guilty of some Errors in giving an account of things of little importance, or in explaining some hard and obscure Questions, we could not from thence infer, that he had given us a false Relation of the Female Pontiff. He took one Gate for another, and therefore he took a Pope for a Popess, is rather a Jest than an Argument; or, if it must pass for an Argument, it may be easily retorted upon its Author; for, I may with equal reason affirm, that if Mr. Chevreau's Reflections on M. Polonus be false and groundless, therefore all his Arguments against the Story that is the subject of our Controversy are mere Sophisms, and he mistakes a Popess for a Pope. That the Antecedent is certainly true, will appear from the following Considerations.  
(1.) 'Tis plain, that Mr. Cheureau knew not that there was a Gate called Collina, when he wrote, That Polonus takes the Gate of Ostia, and the Gate Capena for another which he called Collina▪ instead of Collatina or Pinciana. But 'tis certain that Collina was the name of a Gate as well as Collatina; it took its name à Colle Quirinali, and is mentioned by Ovid; 
Templa frequentari Collinae proxima portae  
Nunc decet;—  
Fast. 4.  This Gate is now called Salara.  
(2.) The Gate Collatina, so called from the Town of Collatium, is different from the Pinciana, as F. Nardin has clearly demonstrated.  
(3. Mr. Cheureau had no reason to find fault with Martinus Polonus, for calling the Pantheon a Temple of Cybele, since several learned Antiquaries are of the same opinion. 'Tis true indeed, and I think I have already told you, that Authors are not agreed in their Conjectures concerning the Denomination of the Pantheon: But there are many who believe that it was so called because it was consecrated by Agrippa to Jupiter 
* Jupiter the Avenger. , and to 
† 'Tis not altogether improbable that Cybele herself was a multiplied Deity: for she was worshipped under the several Names of Ops, Rhea, Vesta, Berecynthia, Dindymena, Tellus, Magna Pales, and Magna Mater. She was also called Natura rorum Parens.  Cybele the Mother of all the Gods. However, since Opinions are divided, and the Question is at the best problematical, Polonus cannot without Injustice be accused of an Error, for what he has written on this subject.  
(4) Mr. Cheureau is not easily to be understood, when he talks of the Roman Amphitheatre, for there were several Amphitheatres in that City, and the Ruins of some of 'em are still remaining. I suppose he meant the great Amphitheatre called Colliseum, which was built by Vespasian, and dedicated by Titus.  
(5.) I confess I have not read Polonus' Treatise concerning Rome, but 'tis very improbable that he took the Colliseum for a Temple. This is certainly too great an Absurdity to be believed, and I vehemently suspect that some of his Expressions are misunderstood. He might indeed speak of a Temple of the Sun near that Amphitheatre, but he could not possibly imagine, that the Colliseum was its self a Temple.  
I must further tell you, that what you relate concerning a Manuscript Polonus which you have seen, where this Story is written on the margin, and by another Hand, does not at all reach the bottom of our Controversy. You may easily conceive that some interested Person having gelded our Author, that Defect was afterwards supplied by a more equitable Hand: And thus your Manuscript is only a particular Instance, from which nothing can be concluded against the Credit of other Copies. If some person should think fit to restore the History of our Popess, by way of a marginal Note, in the mutilated Copies of Anastasius, this could not destroy the Authority of those Originals where the same Relation is to be found in the Text. Thus we may reasonably suppose, that the Story of Pope Joan was left out in your Manuscript, and afterwards restored by another Hand: And even Bellarmin confesses, that Martinus Polonus wrote the History of our Popess.  
But to return to Mr. Cheureau. You may observe how much he was puzzled to give some probable account of the first occasion of that Controversy, since he is forced to have recourse to the Opinion, or rather Evasion, of Onuphrius, tho' he conceals the Name of the Author. He pretends that Pope John the Twelfth had a Concubine called Joan, who was his Favourite, and governed him so absolutely, that he was usually nicknamed Joan. Besides, he goes further than Onuphrius; for whereas that Author speaks only conjecturally, Mr. Cheureau asserts positively, That John the Twelfth was called Pope Joan, because of the blind Complaisance that he had for his Concubine. Onuphrius' Conjectures are mere airy Notions and groundless Suspicions: and Mr. Chevreau's Assertion is rash and precarious; he can produce no other Argument to prove, that John the Twelfth was called Pope Joan, but his own bare Authority; and neither Onuphrius nor he can make it appear, that 
* Platina calls him the most pernicious and infamous of all the Popes that preceded him. Some Writers relate, adds that Author, That he was slain in the act of Adultery.  ever Pope John had such a Concubine. 'Tis true, they both cite Luitprand to confirm their Hypothesis, but they cite him falsely. The Name of the Widow mentioned by Mr. Cheureau was Ann, not Joan; and without doubt he was ignorant that our illustrious 
† M du Plessis Mornay.  Duke Plessis had already discovered the Forgery which Onuphrius made use of to strengthen his Conjecture. Besides, it may be observed, that this Pope John was advanced to the Papal Chair a hundred years after Pope Joan, which is another Absurdity that attends Mr. Chevreau's Opinion.  
He adds, That the Story of the pretended bored Chair is not better grounded, and that the Chair is not bored. But, by his leave, I have seen it more than once, and if I may believe my own Eyes, it is bored, and that after the usual manner of Close stools. I have already told you that it is of Porphyry; but there are two of 'em, one broken and the other entire, and they are both made of the same matter, and after the same fashion.  
The Groping Chair  
Vol. 2. Pag. 102   depiction of chair 
To proceed to Mr. Chevreau's last Argument, he tells us, That the Fathers of the Council of Soissons having written to Pope Leo the Fourth, to desire his Approbation, their Deputies found that he was deceased before their arrival, and returned the same year from Rome to France, with the Subscription of his Successor Benedict III You have seen with how little certainty this Author has proceeded hitherto; and his End is suitable to his Beginning, He mentions a 
* It was the second Council or Conventicle held at that place, which Nicholas the First would never be persuaded to approve.  Council of Soissons, without any other Mark of Distinction: He tells us a Story without the least proof, and, which is worse, he cannot prove it; for we must not rely upon the Testimonies of Sirmond and Binius, or on the Authority of the late Editions of the Councils. To prove his Assertion, especially in such a doubtful Case as this, he ought to produce Manuscripts of uncontroverted Antiquity and Credit; but we must excuse him, since his Story is not to be found in such authentic Originals. If he could certainly fix the time of the departure of that Council's Envoys to Pope Leo, and of their return after his death, the duration of his Pontificate might be also determined, which none of all those who deny the Story of Pope Joan have hitherto been able to do. This is an important Remark, and deserves to be considered with attention. Onuphrius, and the rest of his Party, are forced to lengthen the Lives of the Popes that preceded and followed our Popess, and by confounding the order of their succession, have thrown themselves into inextricable Labyrinths. Bellarmin, one of the most subtle and dextrous of all these Chronologers, in his Treatise of Ecclesiastical Writers, extends the time of Nicholas the First's Pontificate to 
† Platina computes Seven years, Nine months, and Thirteen days.  Ten years, which in his Chronology he reduces to Nine years and a half. Examine all these Authors, and you shall not find one who does not contradict himself, so difficult a Task it is to counterfeit the Truth. Bellarmin has not forgot to calculate the time of the Pontificate of any one Pope, but only of Leo IV, which is a shrewd sign that he was strangely puzzled how to dispose of the Two years during which the Papal Throne was filled by Joan, alias John VIII. But this is not the only Inconvenience with which his Opinion is clogged; for he and his Companions, by expunging that Woman out of the Catalogue of Popes, have entangled themselves in new Difficulties. And whereas they who make Truth the Standard of their Relations reckon four and twenty Popes that bore the Name of John, the rest count only twenty three, and by so doing confound the whole History. Thus their John the Twelfth, whom we mentioned before, is John the Thirteenth, according to Platina, 
* Or Bartholomew Caranza, called also Miranda, Archbishop of Toledo, in his Abridgement of the Councils.  Garenza, and all faithful and unbyass'd Historians.  
I have nothing more to add concerning Mr. Cheureau, for I will not trouble you with an account of all the Faults that I have observed in his History. And indeed, it is no great wonder that he was not able to carry on so vast and general a Work without falling into some Errors.  
I shall only subjoin three or four short Remarks for a further illustration of our present Controversy.  
You must not be surprised to find our Popess called both Anglicus and Moguntinus, as if that were a plain Contradiction; the 
* Werner Roolwinck a Westphalian.  Author of Fasciculus Temporum has unriddled the whole Mystery in these words, Joannes Anglicus cognomine, sed natione Moguntinus. Her Name was Joan English, and she was born at Mentz.  
The Variations that are observed in Manuscripts ought not to trouble you. I acknowledge, that this Story is to be found in some of 'em, and not in others; but you are not ignorant of the Forgeries of Transcribers, or how they were wont to mangle the Books with which they were entrusted. I might easily fill a large Volume with Instances of their Impostures.  
I see no reason why it should appear strange that some of those who relate this History seem to speak doubtfully of it; for, besides that it seems at first view to be encumbered with some odd and intricate circumstances; 'tis certain that they could not express much Zeal in defending the Truth of such a Relation, without exposing themselves to visible Dangers. The Force of Truth prompted and compelled 'em to speak; and the Fear of giving Offence to the Court of Rome was a Bridle to restrain 'em. All this may be easily conceived; however, we see several Authors have broken through all these Difficulties, and have given us such clear and exact accounts of that Event, that we could not have deserved a more positive confirmation of it.  
Two or three such Testimonies as these would be sufficient to convince any reasonable Person of the truth of our Assertion. And, what tho' they are contradicted by Hundreds, and by Millions? Truth can never be overpowered by the numbers of its Enemies▪ The History of the Popess does not imply the least contradiction; it is attested by several Men of Honour, who were constrained by the Evidence of Truth to speak against the Interest of their own Party; our Adversaries themselves cannot pretend that it was foisted into the Writings of these Authors by the Enemies of Popery; and it was received without contradiction during the space of Five hundred years, by the confession of those very persons who call it a Fable. 'Tis plain then, that all the Negative Authorities in the World are not capable of invalidating the Credit of so many Authentic Witnesses, and of a Relation so solidly and generally attested.  
I have already given you an account of my Thoughts, in answer to that part of your Letter where you mention some of our Doctors, who deny the Story of Pope Joan; but since I perceive you insist on this Argument, I must tell you plainly, that it is a very unwarrantable piece of Partiality, not to give it a worse name, blindly to embrace the Opinions of any Man not divinely inspired, whatever figure he may make in the World. A Man of Sense will never suffer his Judgement to be biased either by the Voice of the Public, or by the Numbers or pretended Authority of Writers that are dignified by great Titles. Three quarters of the Christian World are mere Slaves to those ancient Writers whom they call The Fathers; tho', 'tis certain, the good Instructions they have left us are mixed with a great number of dangerous, false, insipid, and ridiculous Opinions.  
I thought to have ended our Controversy here, but I believe it will not be improper to remove another Difficulty before I leave this Subject. I must confess, I was somewhat surprised to find that, instead of Mr. Cheureau, you had conjured up against me so terrible an Adversary as the famous 
* David Blondel.  Blondel, who is the Pillar and Bulwark of Antipopessism, and whose bare Name has gained abundance of Proselytes to his Opinions. He was a man of Learning and Wit; besides, he was a Protestant, and consequently was believed to have no other Interest than that of Truth in the Success of the Quarrel which he had espoused. 'Tis certain, his Authority has been always a Stone of Stumbling to those who are wont to make Prejudice their Rule of Faith. The Name of the Author is the strongest Argument in his Book, and it is that alone which has given the greatest Blow to his Enemies.  
I have read this Piece over and over with attention, and can assure you it is written after a manner very proper to blind the Eyes and confound the Judgements of the generality of Readers. But those who will not suffer themselves to be imposed upon, and still look for something that is solid and material, will not find any thing in the whole Book worthy of that Character.  
I could fill a Volume with Observations and Criticisms on this Work, for I have made some Reflections on every Page, and perhaps every Period in it. This is not a proper place for 'em; but I may find an opportunity hereafter to communicate 'em to you; in the mean time I shall content myself with giving you a general Idea of it, accompanied with a few particular Remarks, according to the method by which I have anatomised it.  
Mr. Blondel gins with a Declaration that gives a wound to his Cause, which all his Artifices can never palliate. The Force of Truth and of authentic Testimonies, which he received from 
* He means Salmasius.  those to whom he neither would nor durst refuse to give credit, extorted this ingenuous Confession from him, That the History of the Female Pope is contained in the Augsburg Copies of Anastasius; which I mentioned before. You see what Advantage he has given to his Enemies; and, what Stratagem d' ye think he uses to recover his Ground? Can you imagine that a man of his parts would have recourse to the poorest Evasion that ever baffled Author was guilty of? or, that he would start an imaginary Difficulty, that he might afterwards the more easily grapple with this Windmill in his own Brain? He is sensible there is nothing but dry Blows to be got by meddling with these original Manuscripts, and that they would be too hard for all his Rhetoric, and therefore he even very fairly leaves 'em as he found 'em, without ever mentioning 'em afterwards, and finds out another Anastasius at Paris, written about Two hundred years ago, which contains also the same History, but accompanied with some circumstances which, he assures us, imply several Contradictions. And, It seems, adds he, that the Parisian Anastasius should give light to those of Augsburg. At first he dares not advance such a Paradox, but with an it seems, and without considering whether that which seems to him does also seem so to others; he builds his Discourse on this uncertain Foundation, and at the same time, tho' tacitly, establishes his Supposition for a certain Truth. Thus, with his Anastasius of Two hundred years, he has found the Secret to confute all the other Copies of that Author, without citing one of 'em.  
But, what is still worse, his Anastasius is a private Piece, which he shows only by Shreds, and dares not produce. If I were not restrained by fear of injuring Mr. Blondel's Sincerity, I should be strongly tempted to suspect that his Manuscript was never seen by any Man but himself: and at least I think I may be allowed to suppose that he durst not quote the whole passage, lest it might furnish his Adversaries with Weapons against himself.  
In the first place then, we must believe Mr. Blondel upon his own single Testimony, that there was really such an Anastasius, and such a Passage in it, as he citys; but his Manuscript might have been supposititious, or at least a modern and even, by his own confession, an uncertain Copy, since he tells us it had been often taken for a Platina. 'Tis strange, that any man that can read should not be able to distinguish Anastasius from Platina.  
Secondly, After we have blindly believed all that this Author is pleased to tell us concerning his pretended Anastasius, we must extend our Complaisance further, and, upon the credit of his bare it seems, either believe or suppose his  Inference, that this Manuscript not only may serve to illustrate the Anastasius' of Augsburg, as he pretends at first, but is a true Copy of these, and even of the most ancient and exact Anastasius'; for, if this supposition be false, all his Arguments must fall to the Ground.  
I may venture to affirm, that this Consideration alone is sufficient to discredit Mr. Blondel's famous Book, the main design of which should have been to destroy and confute, by clear and solid Reasons, the positive Testimony of such a learned and uninteress'd Eye-witness as Anastasius.  
Before I proceed to communicate to you some other Remarks on Mr. Blondel's Treatise, I must desire you not to expect to find 'em all accompanied with Demonstrations; I may perhaps, for brevity's sake, omit the Proofs of some of my Assertions, but I shall be ready to supply that Defect when you please.  
In the general 'tis certain, that this Book may be entirely and unanswerably confuted out of itself; and that far from destroying the History of the Popess, the Truth of that Event may be solidly demonstrated by Reasons drawn from this very Treatise. These are two Positions which I dare confidently assert, and undertake to maintain.  
Among all the Contradictions with which this Discourse is stuffed, I shall only desire you to observe, that two thirds of it are spent in litigious Chronological Cavils, and vain Rhodomontadoes against the Authors of our History. After which he forgets himself so far, 
Above all, the Chronology of the Bishops or Popes of Rome is a dreadful Labyrinth.  as to make a long Harangue to demonstrate the uncertainty of Chronology, and the weakness of those Arguments that are drawn from it, either to confirm or invalidate the Truth of a Relation. When he finds that Chronology may be accommodated to his Hypothesis, he flies at it greedily, and triumphs as in the Testimony of an Oracle; but every thing that looks a skew upon his Calculation, is a Trifle or Mistake.  
There is a certain Air of Ostentation spread over all his Book, which makes him on all occasions leave the subject of his Discourse, that he may at any rate make a vain Show of his Reading. And even, not unfrequently, this itching Desire to show his Learning makes him utter things extremely disadvantageous to the Interest of his Opinion; but he must display all that he knows, whatsoever it may cost him.  
He heaps up a multitude of needless and impertinent Quotations, not only to satisfy his Vanity, but also to confound his Readers, and to stun 'em with a multitude of noisy Authorities? 'Tis plain, that he endeavours to weary People, and to bar the access to his Book with heaps of useless Digressions and empty Cavils, which serve only to increase the Obscurity and Intricacy of the controverted Question. He very seldom pursues his Design closely, and oftentimes picks up some trivial Story which Chance throws in his way, and makes as great a noise with it, as if it were tne main Point for which he contends. He triumphs out of season, and confutes petty Circumstances with a great deal of Solemnity, to amuse his Readers. He exaggerates Difficulties, and when he meets with one that pleases him, splits it perhaps into half a score. He fills his Refutations with scurrilous and injurious Reflections. He commonly gives the Lie to his Adversaries, and upbraids 'em with Impostures and Blunders, that he may insensibly accustom those that will suffer themselves to be influenced by so bad an Example, to rail perpetually against the Asserters of the opposite Opinion. His Jests are also too spiteful and biting, and he lays about him on all hands without Mercy. This Peevishness and ill Humour is an evident sign that he was non-plussed; and sometimes he visibly bewrays a great deal of Fear and Hesitancy in the management of his Attacks: Neither is he very solicitous to be understood, if he can but hoodwink his Readers, and draw 'em after him into the Labyrinth in which he has engaged himself.  
'Tis certainly very pleasant to observe how these doughty Critics, after they have exhausted their Wit in Reflections on the History of our Popess, are puzzled to divine the original occasion of that pretended Fable. Some, with Baronius, run as far as Constantinople, to find out an Imaginary Patriarchess of that See, without considering that by so doing they confirm the probability of Pope Joan's Adventure. Others, as Onuphrius and Mr. Cheureau, transform an Ann to a Joan, as I intimated before, and by a second Metamorphosis turn this Joan into a Maud, or an Olympia, who governed Pope John the Twelfth; and at last they squeeze a sort of a Popess out of this Concubine, whom, after all, they are forced to bury a hundred years before she was born, that they may bring her again upon the Stage in time and place convenient. Allatius has also forged a certain Thiota, a pretended Prophetess of Mentz, whom he transfigures as dexterously as he can into a Female Pontife. Mr. Blondel relates several other Conjectures, and confutes 'em all; he is wonderfully modest on this occasion, and acknowledges that this is a Mystery which he is not able to unriddle. But this is not the only place where he displays his Candour; for he employs fourteen or fifteen Pages of his Pamphlet in a Panegyric on Truth and Justice; and while the Fit of Generosity is upon him, he cannot suffer those unjust Calumniators of the Papal See to escape unpunished; which, he assures us, was the only Motive that obliged him to draw his Pen. Let us only make two short Reflections on this Pretence, and then, if you please, we will proceed to some other subject.  
Whether there ever was a Woman-Pope, or not, 'tis certain things are otherwise in such a posture, that this Circumstance singly considered can neither be advantageous nor prejudicial to the Interest of the Church of Rome. I never could endure to insult over 'em upon this account, as some among us are wont to do, for I'm persuaded that 'tis impossible to draw any Inferences from this Adventure more to the disadvantage of that Party, than those that may easily be deduced from the Stories of several Popes who were far worse than our Popess. If, excepting only this Creature, all the rest of the Popes had been Men of Probity, good Christians, and vigilant and faithful Pastors; had their Lives and Morals been unblemished, and their Doctrine pure and uncorrupted, I should not be surprised that those of that Profession could not bear so scandalous a Reproach. But since the most bigoted Authors of the Roman Communion acknowledge that there has been a prodigious number of abominable Popes, why should our She-Pontife be esteemed a more hideous Monster than the rest, merely because she was of another Sex? The Church of Rome then ought not to make such a terrible pother about an affair of so little consequence: and certainly Mr. Blondel had much less reason to take Pepper in the Nose on the same occasion: his Zeal is at best but impertinent, and his Charity unprofitable. Such an insignificant Remedy as that which he administers can never purify the whole Mass of the Papal Blood, which, by the unanimous confession of Historians of all Religions, is extremely foul and corrupted. And it must be acknowledged, that Mr. Blondel's Harangue on those Principles of Generosity that prompted him to undertake this Work, is too tedious and full of Affectation, to persuade a judicious and unbyass'd Reader of the Author's Sincerity.  
But I must at last conclude this Subject, by telling you all I think, and even all that I know of my Adversary. And, to speak freely on this occasion, I may venture to assure you, he was acted by Interest as well as by Ostentation. A Man of Honour who lived at Paris, and knew that Writer particularly, informed me, that he learned from the first hand that he was hired to write a Treatise against the Story of Pope Joan. My Author is in all respects worthy of Credit; nor is Mr. Blondel the only Man in the World who has been persuaded by Silver Arguments to act such a part.  
'Tis not without Reluctancy I mention any thing that may be made use of to blacken the Character of a Man, who, to take him in the general, was certainly a Person of Merit; and you must give me leave to say in his justification, that perhaps he really believed the Story to be doubtful: Besides that, all things considered, he did a Favour to the Church of Rome, by writing against the Popess, without doing the least Injury to Ours. Our Religious Differences do not at all depend on the Truth or Falsehood of that Story; and therefore Mr. Blondel might look upon it as a matter of Indifference.  
I can say little or nothing in answer to your Questions concerning the Greeks and Armenians that are in this City. They have each of 'em their particular Ceremonies, and officiate according to their peculiar Rites; but they are forced to subscribe to the Pope's Supremacy, before they can obtain leave to settle at Rome. Antiquaries believe, that the little Armenian Church was heretofore one of the Temples of the Sun and Jupiter.  
The Jews at Rome enjoyed some measure of Liberty, and lived somewhat easily before the Pontificate of Paul the Fourth; but that Pope was a terrible Enemy to 'em: For whereas before they were permitted to live in any part of the City, he confined 'em to one corner of it, whither he ordered 'em to retire at the close of the Evening. He forced 'em to sell their Possessions, and suffered 'em only to trade in old Clothes. He commanded 'em, for a mark of distinction, to wear yellow Hats, and issued out an express prohibition, That no Christians should either eat or converse with 'em. I am informed, that by a Decree of Gregory XIII, they were obliged, or at least a certain number of 'em, to hear a Christian Sermon every Saturday in the Afternoon, but I have not yet had an opportunity to see that Assembly. The Italian Jews, and particularly those of Rome, as some of themselves assured me, do scrupulously observe the Law that enjoins 'em to marry at Twenty years of age at farthest, under the pain of Ignominy, and being treated as persons living in Sin. The number of the Jews at Rome may at present amount to between Six and Seven thousand.  
When any Jew, or other Infidel, is willing to embrace the Christian Religion, the Solemnity of his Baptism is put off to Saturday in the Holy Week, unless some urgent Consideration require greater haste. This Ceremony is performed in the Church of S. John de Lateran, where, they believe, Constantine the Great was baptised. We saw six Turks baptised in this Church; they wore a Cloak of white Damask, and a Lawnband, with a Silver Cross hanging at their Neck. The Cardinal that was to officiate being come with the Canons of that Church, the Ceremony was begun with blessing the Water; after which the Proselytes, presented by their Godfathers, advanced, every one in his turn, and declared their desire to be baptised; then they leaned over the Font, and the Cardinal baptised 'em, and gave 'em their Names, by pouring Water on their Heads out of a large Silver Spoon; afterwards taking Wax Tapers in their Hands, they were confirmed in the Chapel of the Baptistery, and from thence went to hear Mass in the same Church.  
We were present also, the Thursday before, at the Ceremony of washing the Feet of Thirteen Pilgrims, in one of the Chapels of the Vatican; they were likewise clothed in white, and besides had a kind of Hood, with a square Cap. Being set all in a row upon a Bench, they pulled off their Shoes and Stockings, and a Priest came to see whether they were ready; afterwards a great Basin was brought in, and Ewers of Vermilion, one for every Pilgrim: Then the Cardinal that officiated in the Pope's absence washed their Feet in the Basin, rubbing 'em with his own Hands, and then wiped and kissed 'em. After which every Pilgrim received two Gold Medals, and all in a body went to one of the Chambers in the Palace, where a magnificent Entertainment was prepared for 'em: all the Thirteen Pilgrims were placed on one side of a Table, and the Cardinals sat at another in the same Room.  
I will not trouble you with a particular Account of the rest of the Ceremonies that we saw during the Holy Week, since they have been exactly described by others.  
The 
* Innocent XI.  Pope is really old and infirm; but, 'tis plain, that he makes his want of Health serve for a Pretext to excuse his absence at all those numerous Ceremonies. I am very credibly informed, that he did by no means approve of the French Dragooning; and I learned from a good hand, that he could not be brought to take notice of those Steps that were lately made by that Crown towards a Reconciliation. The Minister that was entrusted with the management of that Affair could never obtain a positive Answer to his Proposals, nor so much as a free Audience.  
The extreme Privacy of that Retirement in which this Pontife spends his days, not only hides him from the Eyes of Strangers, but they are even hardly able to perceive that he is in Town; for they never meet with any Lackeys, Coaches, or Retinue that belong to him: when he goes abroad, which he does very rarely, he is carried in a Litter. These Litters are very large, lined with crimson Velvet without and within, with Gold Galoons and Fringes; and the Harness of the Mules are adorned after the same manner. The Pope is always alone in his Litter, in the forepart of which there is a little Table instead of a Seat. All Popes have the same Livery, which is scarlet, with a double Velvet-Galoon of the same colour. Almost all the Apartments of the Vatican and Monte-Cavallo are likewise hung with red Damask, adorned with Bands of Gold-Galoon, and above with Gold-Fringes.  
The situation of the Gardens of Monte-Cavallo is very pleasant, but the contrivance of 'em is irregular, and they appeared to us to be very much neglected.  
The two Marble Horses that stand before the Palace were by Sixtus the Fifth's Order brought from Constantine's Baths. It is, and has always been, the general Opinion, That one of 'em is the Work of Phidias, and the other of Praxiteles, the Names of those two famous Sculptors being engraven upon 'em. 'Tis also said, 
Opus Phidiae, Opus Praxitelis.  and many Authors have written, That these Horses are the Statues of Alexander's Bucephalus, which these Artists made in Emulation of one-another, but there must certainly be some Mistake in this Tradition. Phidias flourished a whole Age before Praxiteles, and Alexander the Great lived Fifty years after Praxiteles. 'Tis plain then, either that these Statues are not the Work of the abovementioned Sculptors, or that they were not made for Bucephalus.  
The two other Horses of Marble, that are to be seen in the Court of the Capitol, were taken from Pompey's Theatre; and the Statue on Horseback of Brass which stands in the same place, was erected there by Paul III. 'tis thought to be the Statue of Marcus Aurelius.  
The Capitol is a modern Structure, raised upon the Ruins, and even on part of the 
* The old Foundations appear.  Foundations of the ancient Edifice: it would require a whole Volume to describe all the remarkable Antiquities in this place; I shall only name some of the principal. The She-Wolf of Brass, giving suck to the Illustrious Twins, on which may be seen the mark of the Thunderbolt mentioned by 
* Orat. 3. contra Cat.  Cicero; the four great Basso-relievo's, which represent several Passages of the History of Marcus Aurelius; the Columna rostrata of the General, or Admiral and Consul Duillius, the first that was honoured with a Naval Triumph in Rome; the Courier pulling a Thorn out of his Foot after he had delivered his acceptable Message to the Senate, who chose rather to endure that pain during his Journey, than to retard the public Joy; the Bust of Cicero, with his Vetches; the 
† One for Oil, two for Wine, and the fourth for Grain.  four ancient Measures; the Bust of Virgil; Nero's Nurse holding that little Monster by the Hand; the Goddess of Silence; the God Pan; the three Furies; a Statue of Caesar with his Cuirass; another of Augustus; those of Castor and Pollux; the Fragments of the Colossuses of Apollo, Domitian, and Commodus; the Lion devouring a Horse; and the Trophies which some think are Trajan's, tho' others ascribe 'em to Marius.  
The Pictures in Fresco in the great Hall are by the Hand of Cavalier Joseph; I am of opinion that they represent the first Battle between the Romans and Sabins.  
I know not well what account to give you of the Pillar called the Milliarium, for I'm persuaded that it would not be an easy Task to explain the true meaning of it; It is of white Marble, 
Primus, Secundus, Tertius ab Urbe Lapis.  eight foot and a half high; the cipher I is marked on the top of it, and on the Chapter a Brass Globe about two foot in diameter: The common Opinion is, That this Column is in the Centre of Rome, and that from hence they began to compute the distances from that City, which were divided into Miles by other Pillars that were erected on all the great Roads in Italy; but there are two or three Difficulties that destroy the probability of this supposition. The Column in the Forum Romanum mentioned by Suetonius, Tacitus, and some other ancient Authors, was, according to their Representation of it, of Brass, or Brass gilt, and the Names of the great Roads were engraved upon it, with the computed distances of the principal Cities; but no such thing appears on the Milliarium in the Capitol. You will perhaps tell me, that the brazen Column might be lost, and the Milliarium set up in its place; but you do not consider that this last was found adjoining to the Appian Road, as it appears by the 
† Columnam Milliariam primi ab urbe Lapidis Indicem, ab Imperatore Vespasiano & Nerva restitutam, de Ruinis suburbanis Viae Appiae in Capitolium transtulit.  modern Inscription engraved on one of the Faces of its Pedestal: nor is it at all probable that this Pillar was transported from the middle of the City to a mile's distance from the Walls. Besides, how is it possible to explain the meaning of these Expressions Primus, or Secundus ab Vrbe Lapis, if these Stones or Columns were not without the City, since the word ab urbe does evidently imply that they were not in it? If I had never heard or read of the gilt Milliarium in the heart of the City, where some Authors pretend that all the Consulary Roads met, I should have certainly concluded from the words Ab Vrbe, from the City, that Primus Lapis, the first Column, or Milliarium, such as that in the Capitol, had been erected at the distance of one Mile from the Walls of Rome. Since this Milliarium was found in one of the Suburbs of the City, and near to one of the Highways, I should have believed that its proper place was there, and that the number of those First Columns equalled that of the great Roads. Whether we suppose that the gilt Milliarium was the only first Pillar, and that the second Columns were placed at the distance of one mile from it, which nevertheless seems to imply a contradiction; or that the gilt Column in the centre of the City was only a Mark from which all the Distances were computed, and that the nearest Columns were called first Milliariums, and distinguished by an Inscription like that in the Capitol: 'tis obvious from either of these Suppositions, that, considering the Greatness of Rome, none of all these first or second Columns could be within the City, and consequently that this Expression Primo ab Vrbe Lapide was very improper, and even false; for the primus Lapis must have been in Vrbe, and not ab Vrbe.  
I am confirmed in this Opinion by another Circumstance. There is an ancient Inscription in the Palace called Palaestrinum, which contains the Statues of a College of Aesculapius, and of Health, to which one Salvia Marcellina bequeathed a Temple, a Place or Court, and a Walk, the whole being situated on the Appian Way, near the Temple of Mars, Intra Miliarium primum & secundum ab Vrbe euntibus; that is, Between the first and second mile as you go from the City.  
'Tis the common Opinion of Antiquaries, that there was a Temple of Mars without the City, and on the Via Appia; and all these Considerations put together, do almost fully convince me, that 
* Since the first Edition of this Book, I find that Holstenius is of the same Opinion.  the gilt Milliarium was erected only to mark the place where all the great Roads begun, and to compute the Distances of the chief Cities; but that all the First Columns were each One Mile distant from the Walls of Rome.  
The Information I received from those whom I consulted on this occasion, was not very material to confirm either of the opposite Opinions; however, I will think of some other way to clear my Doubts, and in the mean time you will oblige me, by sending me an account of your Thoughts on this subject.  
To complete the Description of the Milliarium in the Capitol, I shall subjoin two Inscriptions that are engraved on the Body of the Pillar.  
IMP. CAESAR VESPASIANUS PONTIF. MAXIM. TRIB. POTESTAT. XVII. IMP. XVII. P. P. CENSOR COS. VII. DESIGN. VIII.  
IMP. NERVA CAESAR AUGUSTUS PONTIFEX MAXIMUS TRIBUNITIA POTESTATE COS. III. PATER PATRIAE REFECIT.  
Adjoining to the Right Wing of the Capitol, there is a Church called Ara Coeli; 'tis said, that Augustus having consulted the Oracle at Delphos, to know who should succeed him in the Empire, could not for a long time obtain an Answer to his redoubled Solicitations; and, that at last the Oracle desired the Emperor to retire, declaring, that it was not able to satisfy him, because its Mouth was stopped by the Hebrew Child, who was the Son of God, and true God himself. The Story adds, that Augustus finding this Declaration to agree with the Sibyllin Prophecies, immediately ordered an Altar to be built in the Capitol, to the honour of the Hebrew Child mentioned by the Oracle, calling it Ara Primogeniti Dei, The Altar of the Firstborn of God. The Church called Ara Coeli is built in the same place, so that Augustus' Altar remains still near the Quire.  
The Prison to which, they believe, St. Peter and St. Paul were sent, after they had received the Sentence of Death, is very near this place: It is at present a Chapel, by the name of S. Pietro in carcere. 'Tis the general Opinion of Antiquaries, that this is the Tullianum which was finished by Servius Tullius, or Tullus Hostilius, where only condemned Malefactors were imprisoned. Here they show a little 
* They pretend that the Water of this Spring has a milky taste.  Spring, which, they say, gushed out of the Rock at the Prayer of St. Peter, that he might baptise certain Proselytes. They made us also take notice of the Impression of that Apostle's Face on the Wall, which they told was made by the yielding of the Stone, when he was thrust against it by a Blow which he received from a Soldier.  
There is a prodigious multitude of ancient Ruins scattered about behind the Capitol, but I dare not engage in these Labyrinths; I shall only touch upon some short Remarks by the by.  

So called from Tarpeia a Roman Damsel slain in this place by the Sabines.  The famous Rupes Tarpeia, that Precipice formerly so dreadful, is at present an inconsiderable Rock about twenty foot high.  
The Triumphal Arcb erected for Titus, after he had taken Jerusalem, is remarkable, among other things, for the Basso relievoes which represent the Candlestick, Table, Trumpets of the Great Jubilee, and some Vessels that were taken out of the Temple.  
Constantin's Arch is almost entire, only some of its Statues have lost their Heads, which they say Laurence de Medicis stole, and carried to Florence. It has been observed by curious Inspecters, that the Basso relievoes on this Monument are not equally beautiful, which makes 'em suspect that the best Pieces were taken away when it was erected.  
The Lake of Curtius was in the middle of the Forum Romanum. Ovid tells us, that even in his time there were no marks of it to be seen.  
Curtius' ille Lacus siccas qui sustinet arras,  
Nunc solida est Tellus: sed fuit ante Lacus.  Fast. 6. 
The prodigious Amphitheatre 
‡ 
Because of a Colossus that was near it.  
Hic ubi conspicui venerabilis Amphitheatri  
Erigitur Moles, Stagna Neronis erant.  Mart.  called Colliseum is round on the outside, tho' the Arena or Place of Combat is oval. It contained 
† Without reckoning the Excuneati, who stood in the Passages, to the number of Twenty thousand.  Eighty and Five thousand Spectators, four times more than the Amphitheatre at Verona. I observed, that the Pillars of the Third Order, and the Pilasters of the Fourth have Corinthian Chapiters'.  
You must excuse me for not satisfying your Curiosity by answering the Questions you propose concerning the Senate of Women established by Heliogabulus. The little Building at Monte-Cavallo, by some thought to have been a Temple of the Sun, and by others a Temple of Health, is suspected to have been the meeting place of that Sage Assembly; but this Conceit is grounded only on some uncertain Conjectures.  
The Columns of Trajan and Antonin are so famous and magnificent, that I cannot forbear mentioning 'em, tho' doubtless they have been sufficiently described by others. Both these admirable Monuments are adorned with Basso relievoes, ascending in a spiral line from the Base to the Chapter, which represent the Wars and memorable Actions of those Princes.  

It consists of 24 Stones, each of which contains eight Steps. Boiss.  The first was erected by the Senate to the honour of Trajan, and also served him for a Mausoleum, his Ashes having been placed in a golden Urn on the top of it. This Urn was succeeded by a Statue of St. Peter, of Brass gilt, which Sixtus the Fifth caused to be put in its place. The height of the Body of the Pillar amounts to 128 Roman, or almost 124 English Feet, and is ascended by One hundred and Twenty three Steps.  

This Column consists of Eight and twenty Stones. Idem.  The second was also built by the Senate to the honour of Antoninus Pius. The Statue of that Emperor was placed on the top of it, where that of St. Paul stands at present, which is of Brass, and gilt like St. Peter's. The Stairs consist of Two hundred and six Steps, and the Trunk of the Pillar is One hundred and sixty Roman Foot high, which are equivalent to One hundred and Fifty five Feet of your measure.  
I have several times enjoyed the learned and delightful Converse of the Abbot F. We visited together some of the Caves called Catacombs, and several Ruins of the old Edifices, besides other Antiquities. I shall take this occasion to acquaint you, that we entered one day into the 
* Capo di Bovi.  Mausoleum of Cecilia Daughter of Metellus, surnamed Creticus. At the entrance of this Monument he showed us a hole, into which, some weeks ago, a 
† D. Malatesta Strinati, of Cesena.  Gentleman dropped, unperceived by those who accompanied him. His Friends were seized with astonishment when they missed him, and could not imagine what was become of him. The Pit was deep, and either he was so stunned by his Fall, that he could not cry out, or if he did call none of 'em heard him, and at last they returned without him. About sixty hours after, the poor Gentleman having fortunately scratched open a passage, clambered out of the Pit, and, tho' not without difficulty, got to the next House, his Legs being scarce able to sustain his pale, weak, starved, and spent Body, The People of the House where he entered, moved with Compassion, prepared some comfortable Broths for him, and assisted him so effectually, that he quickly recovered his Strength.  
Never were there so many subterraneous places seen, as there are in and about Rome; the Earth is fallen down in some parts, and has stopped the Entries of many of those famous Caves so universally known by the name of Catacombs, but there is still a prodigious number of 'em remaining. You must not fancy those Vaults, I mean every Catacomb, if I may be allowed to use that Expression, to be one single Room; for the Catacombs of St. Agnes, for example, or those of St. Sebastian are Labyrinths of subterraneous Lanes, which turn, wind, and cross one another like the Streets of a City, Such of these Caverns as seem never to have been made use of for Sepulchers, as those of the Gate Pinciana, and those others near St. John and St. Paul's, are only named Grottoes, and the rest are called Catacombs, which is a modern Name without any signification, for all the various Etymologies that are given of it are mere uncertain Conjectures.  
The Roman Catacombs spread themselves under all the Suburbs, but at Naples they are found only under one part of the City. These Caves are dug out of the Rocks, and extend very far on every side; each Vault is commonly about fifteen or eighteen foot wide, and the height of the Arch amounts to twelve or fifteen feet: on each side there are hollow Niches in the Walls, framed like Chests of all sizes, placed in rows above one another, without any regular Symmetry, where the Bodies were laid without Coffins, and covered with flat Stones or large Tiles, cemented with Chalk and Sand, as it appears distinctly in some places to this very day. Besides the Niches in the Catacombs of Naples, there are some Tombs of a reasonable bigness, adorned with divers Pictures, among which there are many Figures of Heads and half-Bodies, with the Names of the Persons, Paulus, Nicolaus, Proculus, etc. and sometimes a hic jacet, or hic requiescit, is added to the Names.  
Of all the Catacombs we viewed at Rome, those of St. Sebastian are the greatest; the Arches are commonly as high as those of Naples, but the Vaults are but about two foot and a half broad. In several places we saw a great number of covered Niches in the higher rows. A Priest, whom we happened one day to meet there, had the Curiosity to open one of 'em, in which we found a Skeleton almost mouldered away into whitish Ashes, yet we might perceive that the Body had been laid on its Back. The reason why these Catacombs were not made wider, is because the Ground is sandy, and could not be underpropped, whereas those of Naples are hewn out of the solid Rock.  
They pretend here, that these Vaults were dug by the Christians; that during the First Ages of Christianity, Divine Service was performed in 'em; that these burying-places were peculiar to the Christians, and never used by the Heathens; that a great number of Saints and Martyrs were interred in 'em; and consequently, which is the Cream of the Story, that they are inexhaustible Storehouses of Relics.  
Tho' these Suppositions were true, they could not justify the Practice of those who pick up every Bone they meet with in a Catacomb, and merely because they found it there, conclude that it ought to be ranked among those things called Relics. But this Consideration would lead me into a Controversy which I am not willing to examine at this time; neither will I undertake to write a long Dissertation concerning the first part of the abovementioned Hypothesis, which would require more time and Books than I am Master of at present; only in obedienee to your desire, I shall make a few short Remarks on these Propositions.  
Since we are not obliged to give credit to the single Testimony of any man in his own Cause, 'Tis a general Rule that admits of no Exceptions, that every Man that expects to be believed must prove what he affirms. 'Tis plain then, that they who maintain so positively, That the Catacombs were made by Christians for their own peculiar use, aught to demonstrate the Truth of their Assertion. This they have not done, and therefore I might justly reject their Opinion without being at the charge of an Argument to confute it. Yet, by way of supererogation, and out of complaisance to you, I shall subjoin some Considerations which will very much weaken, if not entirely destroy, their Hypothesis.  
(1.) The first thing that comes into my mind on this occasion, is a Passage which I observed not long ago in Horace, where that Author speaking of the Puteculi, or public Burying-places, where the poorer sort of People in Rome were usually interred, makes a description of 'em which agrees exactly with the account I have given you of the Catacombs.  
Huc priùs angustis ejecta Cadavera Cellis  
Conservus vili portanda locabat in arcâ:  
Hoc miserae plebi stabat common Sepulchrum.  
Thomas Goodwin an English Author has represented 'em after the same manner in his Anthology of the Roman History; see the Chapter that treats Of Funeral Ceremonies.  
(2.) I am not ignorant that the Christians were wont to imitate the Heathens on many occasions, but the words Fata, diis Manibus, Domus aeternae, and several other such like Expressions, that are often found in the Epitaphs on these Tombs, were so peculiar to the Heathens, that it is not conceivable they were ever used by Christians. I might, if it were necessary, confirm my Opinion by the Authority of no less famous an Antiquary than Mr. Spon; for you may observe in the Collection of ancient Inscriptions with which he has enriched the account of his Voyage to Greece, that he could not be persuaded to believe that the Epitaph on a Tomb at Thebes, which they assured him was St. Luke's Sepulchre, was made by a Christian, merely because of the word MOIPHC, which he found in it, tho' it also mentioned the Immortality of the Soul. The same Author speaks more positively to this purpose, when he refutes the common Opinion concerning the pretended Tomb of a Saint near Valentia. He says expressly, that the words Aethera and Superis mentioned in the Inscription are, in his opinion, sufficient Arguments to prove that it is the Tomb of a Heathen, and subjoins this Maxim, That the Style of Epitaphs ought to be distinguished from that of Poesy, by reason of the liberty claimed by Poets of all Religions; whereas he assures us that he has always discovered evident marks of the Piety and Simplicity of the Primitive Church in the Inscriptions on ancient Tombs. What opinion then do you think this learned Antiquary would have had of the God's Manes, and Eternal Houses of the Catacombs?  
(3.) The Glass Vials and little Metallic Vessels that have been frequently found in those Sepulchers are also marks of Paganism. The Assertors of the common Opinion concerning the Catacombs pretend that these Vessels served to contain the Blood of the Martyrs; but this is a bare Conjecture, without the least Proof or Illustration. And besides, we have reason to conclude, that these are true Lachrymatories, such as the Heathens were wont to put both into their Urns and Tombs. You know that they were not only desirous to be lamented, which made 'em hire Women to weep at their Funerals, but also took care to gather these Tears, and to preserve 'em with their Ashes or Bones.  
I confess, this Reason alone could not have convinced me, since 'tis certain, as I intimated before, that the Christians borrowed several less innocent Customs from the Heathens. But this Observation may serve to illustrate and confirm the first.  
(4.) There is a Passage in Tertullian's Apologetic that does not at all agree with the Opinion of those who believe that the ancient Christians were usually buried in the Catacombs. That Author complains of the Fury of the Heathens who took the Bodies of the Christians out of their Tombs, and dragged 'em about the Streets; and 'tis probable, that if once those Persecutors had discovered these Caves, they would have for ever deprived the Christians of 'em.  
(5.) If I should inquire how the Christians were able to dig and empty these Caves without alarming their Neighbours, and how they disposed of all the Rubbish, my Adversaries would doubtless tell me, That this Work was not done in secret; and, that the Peuzzolane or Sand of the Catacombs was sold by the poor Christians, who, for this reason, were nicknamed Arenarii; that in the mean time they performed the Duties of Religious Worship in these holes, under pretext of burying their Dead. But this Answer is by no means applicable to the Catacombs of Naples, that are hewn out of a Rock.  
And as for the Nickname of Arenarii, it may be observed, that this Derision of the Misery and Poverty of the Christians does not prove that they were the only Persons in Rome who were reduced to trade in Sand, which is the thing that ought to have been demonstrated, to remove the Difficulty which may arise from our supposing that other persons besides the Christians were employed in digging these Holes. Tho' the Jews of Frankfort, for example, are obliged to run to any part of the City where a Fire happens to break forth, and to carry Water to quench it; it does not follow, that the Christian Inhabitants of that City remain idle Spectators of their Labours.  
'Tis the common Opinion here, That these Ciphers represented in the Margin are composed of a Latin P, for Pro or For, and a Cross, which signifies Christ; so that these Characters are called Pro Christo's. They conclude from hence, that such Figures are the sure Marks of the Tomb of a Martyr, or of one that suffered Pro Christo, for the Name of Christ, and accordingly raise the price of the Relics. But 'tis plain, that these Ciphers consist of a X, Chi, and a P. Rho, which are the two first Letters of ΧΡΙΣΤΟΣ; as ΜΑ and ΘΥ signify ΜΑΡΙΑ ΘΥΓΑΤΗΡ, as I observed in the Mosaic Work on the Front of St. Marry major, and in several other places.  
The Christian Epitaphs that are found here serve as little to confirm the adverse Opinion as the above mentioned Symbols; for the Question is not, whether the Bodies of some Christians were buried in the Catacombs, which is a certain and undoubted Truth. Not only Eusebius and Miltiades Bishops of Rome under the Empire of Constantine, but cain's and Marcellus their Predecessors, who suffered Martyrdom with some other Christians, by the express Order of Dioclesian, were all interred in these Vaults, if we may believe Platina. Besides, it appears by the dates of a great number of Epitaphs, that several Christians were buried here during the First Ages: And I have sufficient ground to believe they appropriated these Sepulchers entirely to themselves in the succeeding times of Peace and Liberty.  
Thus we may easily comprehend how those Christian Epitaphs are to be found in these Cells, but after all the Controversy remains untouched; for the burying of Christians here, is not a Reason to exclude others from being interred in those Holes that were set apart for the Dregs of the People.  
The Pictures of divers sorts and ages in the Catacombs at Naples, the Fashions of the Altars both there and at Rome, and several other Circumstances from which some pretend to draw Inferences, give no light to the Controversy, and deserve not to be considered. The reason of which is, because the Popes of these last Ages having always looked upon their Catacombs as a profitable Source and Magazine of Relics, have repaired 'em in several places, and made such alterations as they thought most proper to strengthen the Opinion of the People, and especially of the Pilgrims, who come from all parts to visit these Holy Places. Panciroli makes a long description of these Reparations, by the help of which we may easily resolve the Difficulties that might arise from several things that are observed in these Catacombs.  
I must not forget to tell you, that during the time of the Plague which raged at Naples, about forty years ago, the Catacombs were the most usual places of burial; and all the Bodies that are to be seen there at present, are such as were interred on that occasion.  
Near the Church and Catacombs of St. Agnes there is an old round Temple, which some think was a Temple of Bacchus. This Conceit is grounded only on certain ancient Representations of Vines and Vintages which are on the Roof, and on the Figures of Grapes, Vine-branches, little Cupid's gathering and pressing the Grapes, Vessels, Tuns, Panniers, and such other Appurtenances of Bacchus that are to be seen on a Tomb of Porphyry in the same Temple. But all these Circumstances are not sufficient to prove, that this Temple was consecrated to him, or that the abovementioned Tomb is his Sepulchre, especially if we call to mind that Bacchus died not at Rome.  
Since this Temple is but a hundred or sixscore paces distant from St. Agnes Church, which was undoubtedly built by Constantine, it may with much greater probability be conjectured, that the former was built at the same time to serve for a Baptistery to the latter, according to the general Custom of those times; and there is also another like Building, which was erected by the same Emperor for a Baptistery to S. John de Lateran. Neither the Ornaments of the Roof, nor those of the Tomb, are inconsistent with this Opinion, since they are also Symbols of Christianity.  
But I need not insist longer on these Conjectures, since the Controversy was decided long ago by Pope Alexander the Fourth, who taking it for granted, that the Bones of Constantia Daughter to Constantin, were enclosed here, 
Ann. 1255.  took 'em out, and having placed 'em as Relics under the Altar which he built in this little Temple, dedicated both to St. Constantia.  
The Tabernacle of the high Altar of St. Agnes is supported by four pretty large and extreamly-well polished Pillars of Porphyry. We were informed, that the little Statue we saw there, was formerly the Statue of a Pagan Deity, but has since been adopted, and consecrated to be for the future the Statue of St. Agnes. It's Mantle deserves to be attentively considered.  
I might entertain you with an account of many other Antiquities which I observed in the Cabinets we have visited, and particularly in that of the Cavalier Pietro Paulo Manini, but my Letters are already so stuffed with such Descriptions, that I shall content myself with mentioning some of those that I had time to consider in the Cabinet of Mr. Bellori. The Curiosities it contains are not extraordinarily numerous, but they are all well chosen, and every thing in it is absolutely rare and perfect. His Fortuna Panthea is a little Signum of Brass half a foot high, and extremely well preserved. How odd were the Imaginations of the Heathens! The Gods governed the World, while they themselves were subject to the fantastical Humours of Fortune! This little Goddess is surrounded with, or to speak more properly, composed of all the Marks and Characters of Divinity that were proper to other Deities; She has the Beauty of Venus, Juno's Crown, Diana's Crescent, the Mitre of Isis, Ceres' Horn of Abundance, Minerva's Robe, the Wings of Fame or of Victory, Cupid's Quiver, the Goats-skin of Bacchus, Esculapius' Serpent, Fortune's Rudder, and several other marks of Gods and Goddesses.  
I observed also the Deified Faustina, with her blown-up Veil strewed with Stars; the Magna Mater, or Natura rerum parens, who suckles different Animals at all her Breasts; the Goddess Fortune, holding in one Hand the Horn of Abundance, and in the other the Nail of Necessity; the Bust of a young Roman Nobleman, with his Bulla aurea hanging at his Neck; the Cistrum, an Instrument which the Egyptians used, before the Romans, to assemble the People to the Sacrifices. This is a rare Piece, resembling a little Racket, the Wood pierced with four pieces of Brass like Cords or Rods, which play and make a noise: This Instrument denoted the four Elements and the Hurry of the World.  
The ancient Vessel of brown Earth, but fine, and sounding like Porcelain, is another of the Rarities in this Cabinet. The Pictures about the Vessel contain Representations of their Customs in bathing; and among others there is a Woman holding in one hand a Strigil or Instrument for rubbing off sweat, and in the other a Vessel called Guttum, which contained odoriferous Waters. Besides, there are Urns, Sepulchral Lamps, Lachrymatories, rare Pictures, and a hundred other things, which I have not time to describe.  
Father Kircher's Cabinet in the Roman College was formerly one of the most curious in Europe, but it has been very much mangled and dismembered: yet there remains still a considerable collection of natural Rarities, with several mechanical Engines.  
It may be justly said, That the Roman College, which is the great College, and principal House of the Jesuits at Rome, is one of the finest Palaces in the City; the Library is good and numerous, but there are no ancient Manuscripts, nor other considerable Rarities in it.  
In a great Hall, which is adorned with the Pictures of the Jesuits that have suffered Martyrdom, we took notice of the famous Garnet, that bold Servant of the Society, who was drawn, hanged, and quartered for the Gunpowder Treason. At his side there is the Figure of an Angel, who encourages him, and shows him the Heavens opened.  
During the three last days of the Holy Week, we met with almost nothing else in the Streets of Rome but Processions of Penitents of all sorts, and in all shapes, who were seeking after Paradise by another way than that of Garnet. They had tapering Hoods which covered their Heads, leaving only two holes directly opposite to their Eyes: some of these Penitents were clothed in white, others in Violet colour, blue, yellow, and several other colours; some 
* 'Tis well known that several of 'em are hired to play these Tricks.  lashed their own naked Backs with Whips of small twisted Cords, which made more noise than they did execution: these are only the puny Scholars of the Druids and Brachman's, or, if you will, of the Indian Faquirs; but they come very far short of the Scotopitae or Circumcelliones of the Fourth Age, who were wont to burn themselves, to cut their own Throats, or to break their Necks for the love of God. There are, and always have been, Fools of all Professions; This puts me in mind of an Accident that I cannot forbear relating to you, and of which I was an Eye-witness. In June 1683. there was an unhappy Creature hanged at 
† The second City in Poictou.  Niori, for murdering her own Child; immediately after the Execution was over, a certain comical Fellow started out of the Crowd. He was about Thirty years old, and wore the Habit of a Franciscan Hermit; he lodged in holes under ground, where he lived on Roots and Wild-Fruit, and was the Son of a 
‖ Called Lafoy Vallee.  poor man in the Town. He went strait up to the top of the Ladder, which was not yet taken away, and untying the Rope that served him for a Girdle, he put it about his Neck with a running Knot, and fastened it to the Gibbet: after which he began very gravely to harangue the Spectators, alleging several Reasons to excuse the dead Wench, for whose Ransom he said he had offered his Life. He added, That his Crimes exceeded hers, and that he was resolved to expiate 'em by a sudden and voluntary Death: in the mean time the People laughed at him, not imagining that he was Fool enough to hang himself; for he was generally known, and the Bigots had a good opinion of him. However, he ventured on the fatal leap, and his Tongue hung out of his Mouth a large minute before any person came to his assistance; but at last 
* Bourdin a Turner, and Keeper of a Billiard Table on the Castle-ditch.  one of the Company, more charitable than the red, cut the Cord, and, tho' not without some difficulty, saved the extravagant Wretch. I had almost forgot one material circumstance; his Mother was present, and would not suffer those about her to balk her son's Humour; she entreated 'em to let him alone, For, said she, I'm sure the Rope was blessed, and no harm can come on't.  
There was not so numerous a concourse of Pilgrims this year as has been formerly. I have read in a Description of Trinity Hospital, that in the year 1600, which was the last of the great Jubilee, that House received, according to the usual Custom, or took care to provide for Four hundred and Forty thousand and Five hundred Men, besides Five and twenty thousand and Five hundred Women. The Italian Pilgrims are lodged and entertained here three days, but those who come from beyond Sea, or from the other side of the Mountains, are allowed one day longer. Princes, Princesses, Cardinals, and the Pope himself, wash their Feet, and serve 'em at Table.  
I must not forget to tell you, that we never yet met the Sacrament in Rome, nor in any other Town in Italy, save only at Venice, where we saw it twice, under a magnificent Canopy not unlike to the Doge's Ombrella, and surrounded with a great number of Torches. The People of this Country are not at all possessed with a spirit of Hatred or Persecution against Strangers of what Religion soever; and I must do 'em the Justice to acknowledge, that in our Travels through Italy, and even at Rome and Loretto, we were never in the least molested by those Adorers of Relics and Images; for they are accustomed to see Strangers enjoy a great deal of Freedom, and the roughest treatment we ever received from 'em was, to be greeted now and then with a Non sono Christiani.  
'Tis impossible for a Traveller to leave Rome without reluctancy, but he must not stay there for ever; we are resolved to departed to morrow, early in the morning, and I have still some little Affairs to dispatch; I must beg leave therefore to conclude my Letter, and to assure you that I am,  
SIR, Your &c, Rome, May 4. 1688.   

LETTER XXVII.  
SIR,  
WE found little or nothing worth our Observation between Rome and Viterbo, only there are some 
* Towards the Wood of Baccano.  Pieces of the Via Emilia still remaining, which I measured and found to be of equal breadth with other Consulary ways. The ancient Lake Cyminus, now called the Lake de Vico, is at the foot of a Hill of the same name, from the top of which we discovered the Sea. This Mountain is very high, but the ascent to it is easy. It is almost all covered with Sycomores and Chestnut-trees, and we observed a great number of Primroses, Narcissus', Hyacinths, and other Flowers now in season growing upon it.  
Viterbo is a City of indifferent bigness, almost wholly built of Stone, and enclosed with a Wall. 
VITERBO.  Beside the Steeples of the Churches, there are eight or ten square Towers which are seen at a distance, and make an odd kind of prospect: These were Forts or Retiring places, built by the richest Inhabitants, adjoining to their Houses, during the Fury of the Guelph and Gibelin Factions.  

Schrader relates, That he saw in this City an ancient Inscription, which deserves to be inserted here: Marcum Tullium Ciceronem ob egregias ejus virtutes, singularesque animi dotes, per totum Orbem nostris Armis virtuteque perdomitum, Salvum & incolumem esse jubemus.  You may find an Account of the Restauration of the ancient Tuscan Name Viterbo, in the following Inscription, of which I took a Copy at the Townhouse. Desiderius ultimus Insubrium Rex, Longulam, Vetuloniam, atque Volturnam, moenibus cingit, & Etruriae priore nomine inducto, Viterbium mulctâ capitis indictâ appellari jubet. Sal. An. DCC. LXXIII.  
There is another Inscription in the same place, which confirms the Donation made by the Countess Maud, of her Estate to the Papal See; Aeternae memoriae inclytae Mathildis, quae ob praestabile Religionis studium ac pietatem sedi Pontificiae suum hoc Patrimonium Divi Petri in Thusciâ dein nuncupatum elargitur; & in veteran Vrbis ejus splendorem intuens Paschalis II. Bledem Pontifex Maximus, ejus Metropolim ut ante Viterbium constituit. An. S. 1113. It would be a hard task to produce such an authentic Testimony for the 
* You may find a Latin Version of it in Barth. Picerna and Aug. Steuchus, which is said to be a Translation of the pretended Greek Original at the Vatican. It is also inserted in Gratian's Decretals; but St. Antonin of Florence proves, that it is not mentioned in the old Decretals. And besides, N. Everard, L. Valla, R. Volaterranus, A. Alciat, J. Aventin, F. Vasquius, Cardinal Cusa, and Pope Pius II. himself, have solidly refuted this Fable. See also the Figmentum Donationis Constantini, by the Jesuit Jos. Cantelius, in his Treatise of Metropolitan Cities.  Donation of the first Patrimony by Constantine. I remember I have somewhere read a pleasant Repartee of a Venetian 
† Hieronymo Donato.  Ambassador concerning this pretended Donation: The 
‖ Alexander VI.  Pope being one day in a merry humour, asked him, in what part of the Venetian Annals their Title to the Adriatic Gulf was recorded: If your Holiness, replied the Ambassador, will give yourself the trouble to look upon the Contract of the Donation made to the Holy See by Constantine the Great, you will find our Title written on the back of it.  
Tho' Desiderius' Inscription mentions only three Cities that were united under the Name of Viterbo, I have observed that this City is sometimes called Tetrapolis, and its Inhabitants Quaterni Populi. And you will find the Names of all the four Cities in the following Distich, which is on the top of the Staircase of the Townhouse.  
Hanc Fanum, Arbanum, Vetuloni, Longula quondam  
Oppida dant Vrbem: prima Elementa F.A.U.L.  
Thus they pretend that the ancient Etrurian Viterbium was built by Isis and Osiris; and to confirm this Opinion, they produce some Greek and Latin Inscriptions, which mention the Antiquity of their City. But having been informed at Rome, that these Inscriptions are Suppositious, and that 'tis generally believed they were made by John Annius the Dominican, commonly called Annius Viterbiensis, who made a Trade of such 
* Joannes Annius dum Gloriam quandam aucupari conatur, cudit novum Metasthenem (pro Megastenem) Berosum, Manethonem & Philonem, quos commentariis auctos in publicum emisit, & pretiosis hisce veterum Autorum titulis, toti Mundo fere imposuit.— Megasteni historias attribuit, de quibus nunquam cogitavit. Calvis Isag. Chron. c. 28.  Forgeries, I would not lose time in transcribing 'em: and besides, they are very long, and written in a small and difficult Character.  
In one of the Halls of this House there is a Picture that was made to preserve the memory of a very extraordinary Accident. It represents innumerable swarms of Grasshoppers; the Sun is darkened, and the Earth covered with thick Clouds of these Infects, which 
* Ann. 1576.  gnaw and devour every thing about Viterbium. All the People are in the Fields, endeavouring by several means to deliver themselves from that Egyptian Plague. And the Cross and Banner are carried in procession, with the Holy Water, to conjure and curse these destroying Animals.  

You may find an account an Orosius, of an Accident of the same nature that happened in Afric, in the year of the World 3825. He adds, That this Judgement was succeeded by so terrible a Plague that in Numidia alone there died Eight hundred thousand Men, and Thirty thousand Roman Soldiers. Surius, Baronius, and all other Writers of Chronicles, have stuffed their Works with such Relations.  I remember Mezeray relates an Instance of the same kind: In the Year 873, says he, about the Month of August, a prodigious number of flying Locusts made an incredible havoc in France. They were an inch in thickness, and their Teeth were harder than Flints. They laid waste the blooming Fields in an instant, and devoured even the Barks of the Trees. They were driven by a strong Wind into the Britannic Sea, where they were drowned; but the Waves throwing 'em upon the Shore in great heaps, their Corruption raised a Plague in the neighbouring Provinces. This Story is related at length in the Life of Charles the Bald.  

MONTEFIASCONE.  As we drew near to Montefiascone, a little Town seated on a Hillock, eight miles from Viterbium, the Children came out to meet us, ask whether we would see the Est, Est, Est. Perhaps you have already heard the Story; but 'tis so singular, that I'm resolved at all Adventures to give you an account of it. A certain Gentleman, or perhaps an Abbot or Bishop, as you will afterwards perceive, travelling from Germany to Italy, used to send his Servant before him, says the Tradition, to taste the Wine in all the Taverns on the Road, with Orders to write the word Est over the Door, where he found the best Liquor. Now, it happened that the Moscatello of Montefiascone pleased Mr. Taster's Palate to such a degree, that he thought it deserved a triple Encomium, and therefore wrote three Ests over the Door. And, it seems, the Master was no less pleased with it than the Man, for he drank so much of it, that he fell sick and died on the spot. We went to see his Monument in St. Flavian's Church, about Two hundred paces from the Town, where he is represented with a Mitre on his Head, and on each side of him there are two 
* Quarterly in the first— a Lion,— in the second— two Fesses.— The Shield is not blazoned.  Scutcheons, with as many Drinking-glasses. At his Feet are these words in worn and half- Gothic Characters; Est, Est, Est, propped. nimium Est, Jo. de Fuc. D. meus mortuus est; that is, Est, Est, Est, for taking too much Est, my Master 
† His Name, according to the Tradition, was John de Fucris. This is the Name of one of the greatest Families in Augsburg.  Jo. de Fuc. lost his Life. 'Tis plain that this Epitaph was made by his Servant; I remember I have seen it quoted in three or four places, but never without some Error.  
In our Journey from this Town to Bolsena, we coasted, tho' at some distance, the Lake that bears its Name. This Lake is almost of an oval figure, and, as we were informed, forty miles in compass. There are two Islands in it called Martana and Passentina, to the first of which the unfortunate Amalasuntha Daughter of Theodoric King of the Goths was banished: she was afterwards 
* Or poinarded.  strangled there by the order of her ingrateful Cousin Theodat, whom she had associated with her in the Government.  

BOLSENA.  Bolsena is a little inconsiderable Town; it was formerly an Episcopal See, but the Bishopric was afterwards translated to Orvieto. On a rising ground behind it are the Ruins of the ancient 
† Or Vulsinium.  Volsinium, which, as Pliny relates, was reduced to Ashes by a Thunderbolt.  
There cannot be a worse Country seen than all the way between Bolsena and Aquapendente. 
AQUAPENDENTE.  The last-named Town is very poor, and ill Peopled; yet it has enjoyed the Title of a Bishopric ever since the destruction of Castro.  
The utmost limit of the Pope's Dominions on this side is at the little Village Centino, at the foot of the Hill Radicofani. 
Radicofani.  The Town and 
‡ It was first built by Desiderius the last King of the Lombard's.  Citadel which bear that Name, if you take the whole year round, are half the time wrapped in Clouds on the top of that high Mountain. A furious Storm forced us to lie there; and we heard the Thunder as it were rumbling under our Feet during the whole night. Leaving Radicofani to proceed on our Journey towards Sienna, we saw nothing but bare and almost wholly barren Mountains; but about eight or ten miles further the Land gins to grow better, towards the Burrow of St. Quirico: 'Tis true, this lasts not long, for about Torrinieri the Land is worse than ever, and we observed the same variety in all the Country through which we passed, till we approached Sienna, which stands on a little and very rich Hill.  
Sienna is an Archbishopric, 
SIENNA.  the third City in Tuscany, and one of the most pleasant places in it. It's situation being high and low, makes it somewhat incommodious; but it enjoys a good Air, and its Streets are near, and almost all paved with Bricks laid sidewise: besides, the Houses are handsome, and the Waters excellent. Here the Tuscan Language is spoken in perfection, without the roughness of the Florentines; and Strangers oftentimes choose to reside here, when they apply themselves to the Study of the Italian Tongue.  
The Cathedral is a Gothic Structure, 
There is a Corridor that runs about the Body of the Church on the inside, adorned with the Statues of the Popes. Among the rest, there is one smooth-chinned young Creature, said to be placed in the room of Pope Joan. I remember I saw these Statues, but I must confess I did not examine 'em carefully. They are somewhat too high to be viewed without difficulty; and besides, I had not time to observe 'em. All the Authors I have yet seen, who deny the Story of the Popess, and mention this Statue, affirm unanimously, either that it is still remaining, or did really subsist heretofore. Baronius says, that it was taken away, and broken to pieces. Launoy, who wrote in the year 1634, assures us, that it was to be seen at that time. Blondel acknowledges the same as to the main, neither does he deny the Story of the other Statue at Rome, mentioned by Theodore de Niem, which was erected in the place where Pope Joan was delivered, and afterwards thrown into the Tiber by Sixtus the Fifth's Order; but he forgets to tell us what became of the first. Father Mabillon, who is the latest of all these Authors, not only confesses that there was such a Statue, but informs us that the Name of the Popess was expressed (Adpositum Statuae nomen fuit; Johannes VIII. Foemina de Anglia). But he adds, That under the Pontificat of Clement VIII, it was disfigured and transformed into a Prophet Zachary, whose Name was written at the side of it.  yet its beauty is so much the more remarkable that it is complete in all its parts; for very few great Churches are ever perfectly finished. This is all covered over with Marble without and with in; and the Ornaments of its Architecture are not inferior to any of their kind. The Pavement is of white and black Marble, the pieces of which are joined together in the Choir after the manner of Inlaid or Mosaic Work. This Building was begun by Duccio, and finished by Dominic Beccafumi. The part next the Choir is the least damaged, and is adorned with the Pictures of Abraham's Sacrifice, and the Passage through the Red Sea. The Arched Roof is azur'd, and strewed with Stars of Gold.  
From the Church we entered, without ascending, into the place where the Library was formerly kept, to see those fine Pictures in Fresco, which represent the whole Story of Pope Pius the Second. They were designed by Raphael after his first way of Drawing, but the Painting was performed by Pietro Perugin his Master, 
Most of these Faces represent Persons who were then alive.  with Bernardin and Pinturicchio; they are finished Pictures, and inferior to none of that nature in the World. 
* Peter Damian says, That Souls fly every Sunday out of the Lake of Purgatory, in the shape of Birds, to take the fresh Air.  The Pope's Soul flying up under the figure of a Bird of Paradise, and the honest Hermit gazing on it, is a much esteemed Piece.  
If you are a stranger to the History of St. Katherine of Sienna, you must first learn the Etymology of her Name, which, according to the Legend, is derived from Katha; that is, says my Author, All, and Ruin, which signifies a falling down; because all the Devil's Edifice fell down in her: so that St. Katherine was formed by a corruption of the word from St. Katharuine. I hope this will please you who are a Lover of Etymologies.  
You must know, in the second place, that this Saint, while she lived at her House in Sienna, was frequently visited by Christ, in propria persona, who after he had for some years entertained a holy and intimate correspondence with her, at last married her according to the usual form of Matrimony, and would have his Wedding solemnised with a great deal of Ceremony. He made a Present to his Bride of a Gold Ring set with a Diamond between four Pearls. He invited his Mother to the Feast, with St. Peter, St. John, and St. Dominic, and ordered King David to entertain 'em with some Tunes on his Harp. I read this Story at Rome in a Description of the Church of St. Katherine in Strada Giulia, and I have seen the Picture of it in several places. At Sienna they showed me the Saints Chamber, and the very Window through which Christ was wont to enter, when he designed to visit her incognito.  
A Painter coming by chance into St. Dominio's Church, where she lay entranced, made bold to draw her Picture, without leave asked or given. They showed me this Image, and assured me, that it wrought abundance of Miracles, and that it has a singular Virtue to drive away Devil's, when 'tis presented to such as are possessed with 'em.  
You know, without doubt, that it was this Saint who gave the fatal Blow to the Scotists, in their Controversy against the Thomists, concerning the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin. For, besides several Arguments which they alleged to confirm their Opinion, they produced a Revelation of St. Bridget's, which had almost put their Adversaries to silence; but as ill luck would have it, up starts St. Katherine in the very nick, with a contrary Revelation, declaring positively, That the Virgin was conceived in Sin as well as other Women; and therefore she has been ever since as much slighted by the Scotists as she is honoured by the Thomists.  
There is a good Citadel at Sienna, and fifteen or twenty square Towers like those at Viterbo. The Tower called Mangiana is particularly taken notice of by some for its extraordinary height, but they are only such who never saw any other that make this Observation.  
The City of Sienna bears for Arms the famous She Wolf giving suck to the Royal Twins; and the same Animal is represented in several places on a Column. This proceeds from the fabulous Relations of some Authors, who pretend that Sienna was built by the Children of Remus. The great Place is hollow like a Boat or Scollop-shell, and may upon occasion be filled with Water when any Fire happens in the City.  
In our Journey from Sienna towards the River Arno, we observed that the farther we proceeded, the Country grew still more level and fruitful. About Camiano, Granayola, Ponte d'Era, and between Pontgibon and Pisa, we found a second Campagna felice, where there is abundance of every thing, and the Ways are extremely pleasant. 
* Pongibon.  Poggibonzi is only famous for its Tobacco.  

The Palace of the Signiory, and that of the Piccolomini built by Aeneas Silvius, deserve a Traveller's Observation.  The present season of the Year inspires all the World with Joy and Good-humour; and this Month is every where particularly remarkable for Sports and holidays; but I never saw a more diverting Object than the Troops of young Girls, who regaled us with Dances and Songs on all this Road, tho' perhaps the Rarity of the Sex might in some measure contribute to heighten the Pleasure we took in seeing 'em. Five or six of the prettiest and best attired Girls of the Village meet together, and go from House to House singing, and wishing every where a Merry May. All their Songs consist of a great number of Wishes, which are commonly very pleasant; for they wish you may at once enjoy all the Pleasures of Youth, and of the blooming season; that you may be still possessed with an equal Love, Morning and Evening; that you may live a hundred and two years; that every thing you eat may be turned to Sugar and Oil; that your Clothes and Lace may never wear old; that Nature may smile eternally, and that the goodness of its Fruits may surpass the beauty of its Flowers, etc. And then come their spiritual Wishes; That the Lady of Loretto may pour down her Favours upon you; that St. Anthony of Milan may be your Guardian Angel; that St. Katherine of Sienna may intercede for you. And for the Burden of the Song, after every Stanza, A merry, merry May.  
I observed near Certaldo, according to the Advertisement you gave me, several Hills of Sand stuffed with divers sorts of Shells. Monte-mario, a mile from Rome, is also full of 'em; besides, I have found some of 'em on the Alps, in France, and elsewhere. Olearius, Steno, Camden, Speed, and many other Authors, both ancient and modern, have taken notice of this Phaenomenon; and I read with a great deal of Pleasure the Dissertation you sent me on this subject: yet, since you desire me to deal plainly with you, I must tell you, that I am not of your Opinion as to the main.  
If these Shells were the Remainders and an Effect of the Deluge, I would willingly be informed why it did not rather leave 'em in deep Bottoms and Valleys, than throw up whole Mountains of 'em; and also, why they are so rarely found: for, it seems more agreeable to Reason, that they should have been scattered more universally upon the Face of the Earth, and not gathered into heaps, as the few that are left are always found. I confess, 'tis not impossible that these Shells might be preserved ever since the Deluge, and therefore I will not insist on that Difficulty; only give me leave to tell you, that you seem to have a false notion of the Waters of the Deluge: for, to give a reason why those Shells, which you imagine to be Sea-shells, are found in the middle of the Land, you suppose that the Deluge was a Sea. But as for me, I conceive that the Water of that Inundation which fell from Heaven, and was consequently sweeter and lighter than Salt-water, was not so thoroughly mixed and confounded with the Waters of the Sea, but that the one still preserved its freshness, and the other its saltness or bitterness, and each of 'em their particular Qualities. Which being granted, this Consideration alone will furnish us with Inferences (which I leave you to deduce) that are sufficient to destroy all your Conjectures.  
Nor is it less in vain to have recourse to Winds, Storms, and Inundations for a solution of this Mystery. The way of Eruption, by which the new Vesuvius or Monte-nuovo was formed, is not, I confess, to be altogether rejected; for such Hills as are composed of Mud or Slime, and of sandy Earth mixed with Shells, and other Marine Bodies, especially in Country's subject to Earthquakes, may well admit of such an Explication. But after all, I see no reason that should oblige us to take so wide a compass for a satisfactory solution of this Phaenomenon; for, to give you my thoughts of it in few words, I think it may be easily comprehended, that the same Virtue and Properties by which Shells are generated in the Sea may also form 'em in the Land, since there are Substances equally fit for their production in both, and all the circumstances and means required for their formation may be found in the latter as well as in the former. I will not enter into a nice enquiry, whether they are formed by Vegetation, or to use the Phrase of some Authors, by Intro susception, almost after the same manner as Plants are supposed to be nourished; or by Juxta position and Incrustation, as Bezoar (whether Fossile or otherwise generated) is produced, or Stones grow in the Kidneys. But choose which Hypothesis you will, and after you have diligently examined the Formation of Shells in those places which you call their natural Beds, it will appear, that the same account may be given of the Shells on the Hills of Certaldo as of those that are found on the shore at Leghorn, excepting only those that are said to be generated with the Animals by the Seed in the Eggs.  
I foresee one Objection which you will infallibly urge against me, if you be not prevented by a timely Answer. You will tell me, that Shells are inseparable from Fishes, Snails, or other such like Animals, for whose use alone Nature produces 'em, according to the common Axiom, That Nature does nothing in vain.  
To dispatch this pretended Difficulty without wandering from the subject of our present Controversy, I shall only put you in mind of those Shells that are sometimes found in the Kidneys, Imposthumes, and Stomach, of which we have such 
* See the Nouvelles de la Republique des Lettres for December 1686. See also Pareus, and other Anatomical Writers.  exact and late accounts, that the Matter of Fact is undoubtedly certain: for if I should ask you for what Creatures these Shells are generated, you must be forced to have recourse to some Distinctions of your Aphorism, which may be easily accommodated to my Hypothesis.  
If you think to elude the force of these Instances, by saying, That a Shell in an Imposthume is a sort of Monster, from which we must not draw a general Conclusion; I answer, That I will neither dispute about Words, nor make too general Conclusions. If Shells in the Kidneys, or in Imposthumes, be called Monsters in your Dictionary, you may, if you please, bestow the same Title on those of Certaldo. Neither must you start new Difficulties, by comparing the multitude of these with the small number of those others; for if the Kidney were as big as a Mountain, and contained as great a quantity of Matter fit for the formation of Shells, as the Hill of Certaldo, we should doubtless find Ten thousand Shells instead of one in that part of the Body; and Ten thousand Monsters of the same nature, formed at the same time, in the same place, and by the same Accident, ought not to be reckoned more than One.  
I could easily answer all your Objections after the same manner, but, for a further illustration of my Hypothesis, I shall consider more particularly the word in vain, Nature does nothing in vain, 'tis true; but that Shells without Fishes are useless Productions of Nature, I deny. The variety of the Works of God in all his Creatures is universally acknowledged, and the reason of it is plain. Thus those Fossil Shells that are found in the Heart of Stones and Marble, were not made in vain; tho' they never enclosed a Fish, nor any other living Creature. The Stones called Ammon's Horns, were not formed in vain; tho' they never graced the Forehead of a Ram. The Tongue-like Stones, or 
* Or Calchariae. The Germane Journal for the year 1661. makes mention of a Turnip that exactly resembled a Hand; and of a Mushroom from which six half-bodyed Human Figures issued out.  Glossopetra's of Malta, were not produced in vain; tho' they never wagged in the Mouth of an Animal. The same may be also said of the Stones called Astroites, Belemnites, Dactyli Judaei, and an infinite number of other variously shaped Fossils' resembling Plants, Fruits, Flowers, Animals, and Human Faces. And why then should Nature be confined from sporting herself in the production of Shells, and at the same time suffered to act on all other occasions with an uncontrolled Liberty, or, to speak more properly, with a perpetual and admirable Variety.  
Pisa, the second City of Tuscany, 
PISA.  Seat of an Archbishopric and University, and formerly a potent Republic, is situated on the River Arno, in an even and exactly levelly Plain. It is a great City, and once deserved the Name of a very lovely place. The Streets are large, straight, and paved with great Stones; and, generally speaking, the Houses are still well built. The Arno is navigable, twice as broad as the Tiber at Rome, and divides the City into two almost equal parts: 'tis pity that so fine a place should be so poor and ill inhabited; for the Grass is pretty high in several parts of it. This desolate condition of Pisa is doubtless an Effect of the Miseries it suffered during its last War with the Florentines, for it was pillaged and almost wholly ruined by those pitiless Conquerors. And 'tis plain, that the City of Leghorn lately built at the Haven of Pisa, has robbed it of a great number of its Inhabitants▪  
The structure of the Cathedral is not much unlike to that of the Church of Sienna, but the former is greater than the latter, and much more advantageously situated in the middle of a fine Court or Yard. The Baptistery and famous leaning Tower are two considerable Buildings, in the same Court, about thirty or forty paces from the Church, on each side of it, and in the same line. It is overlaid with fine Marble, and of an uniform Architecture.  

By an Inscription engraved on a Pillar in the Baptistery, it appears, that the Church was finished Anno 1153. The Baptistery is 180 foot round. There was formerly a Pillar in the Baptistery, in which all the private Machinations against the State were discovered, as in a Mirror.  The Baptistery is round and arched, ending in a Cupola like St. Peter's Dome, or the Domes you have seen at Paris. There is an Echo here that magnifies a Noise extremely; and the sound of a Blow or Cry lasts as long in it as the tingling of a great Bell.  
As for the Tower, some Authors are of opinion, that it was the Mason's Fancy to build it thus leaning; others say, That it does not really lean; but that the Eye is cheated by a secret and artificial contrivance of the Architect: And there are some who pretend, that it seems to lean to all sides, according to the different position of the Spectator. But they are all equally mistaken, and in vain strive to find out a Mystery where there is none; for any reasonable and attentive Considerer will be easily convinced by his own Observation, without further Proof, that the Tower does really lean, and that its inclination was accidentally occasioned by the sinking of part of its Foundation. The height of this Tower amounts to One hundred eighty and eight feet, 
The Stairs that lead to the top of the Tower consist of 193 Steps.  and it has the Figure of a perfect Cylinder: The Platform or Balcony on the top is surrounded with Rails, from whence having let fall a Plummet on the side that inclines most, after several Trials to the right and left hand, I found that my Lead touched the Ground exactly at the distance of fifteen feet from the Foundation.  
The Buryingplace called Campo Santo, because of the Earth which the Pisans 
* When they assisted Frederic the First, called Barbarossa, who took Jerusalem.  brought from the Holy Land in the year 1228, is a kind of Cloister, 190 paces long and 66 broad, comprehending the breadth of the Porticoes. It contains a great number of Tombs: Here I observed an ancient Inscription fixed against the Wall under one of the Porticoes, which is a Decree of the City of Pisa, occasioned by the death of Caesar, ordaining the People to wear Mourning a whole year, and in the mean time to abstain from all public Divertisements.  
I will not trouble you with a description of the Garden of Simples, or of the Collection of Natural Curiosities in the School of Physic; for I could not find any Rarities in 'em which I had not already seen in other places.  
The 
* They wear a red Cross on a black Cloak, and a flamecoloured Collar.  Knights of St. Stephen have their resisidence at Pisa. You are not ignorant that this is the Great Duke's Order, and that it was instituted by Cosmo I, in the year 
† On the 6th of August, after he had gained the Battle of Marciano. The Knights must be of Noble Blood, and born in lawful Wedlock. They vow Conjugal Chastity. Their Cross is like to that of Malta. Every one of 'em is obliged to say a hundred Pater Nosters, and as many Ave Maria's daily, and on certain occasions they double the Dose.  1561. The Church of the Order is very full of Standards, Ship-Lanthorns, and other Spoils taken from the Turks; and over against it, in the Place, is the Statue of the Founder.  

LEGHORN.  Pisa is fourteen miles distant from Leghorn: The interjacent Country is flat, and the Way lies for the most part through Woods of ever green Oaks, Cork-Trees, and Wild Myrtles. 'Tis said, that all these Forests were formerly covered by the Sea, which reached within three miles of Pisa, to a place where there is now a great Church, at the entry of the Woods. They tell us, That one day, as St. Peter was fishing, there arose a Tempest, which drove him to this very place, where he was shipwrecked. And they add, That he erected an Altar there, about which the Church was built by a certain Pope some Ages afterward. It would be needless to relate the rest of the Story.  
I have already told you, that Leghorn is a modern City; it is situated on a flat Ground, and surrounded with handsome Fortifications covered over with Brick: the Streets are large, straight as a Line, and parallel; the Houses are generally of equal height, and almost all painted on the outside. 
Most of the Painting was done by Aug. Tasso, a Native of Bologna.  The Harbour is not so well stored with Ships as several others, but the Trade of the Bank is very considerable. This is the only Seaport in the Dukedom of Tuscany, and the station of the Great Duke's Galleys. There is a House built on purpose for the Slaves, or a kind of Hospital, in which they lie, contrary to the Custom of all other places.  
In our Journey from Leghorn to Lucca we were forced to pass a second time through Pisa, three miles on this side of which we saw the rugged Mountain of St. Julian, which divides Tuscany from the Signiory of Lucca.  
Lucca is situated in the midst of a fertile Plain, which extends fifteen or twenty miles, 
LUCCA.  according to its various dimensions, and is surrounded with very rich and well-inhabited Hillocks. The Fortifications of the City are pretty regular, and well lined, but their Foundations are level with the Plain. We walked round the Ramparts in one hour, which is an Argument of the smallness of the Town; but to make amends, it contains many great Houses, and exceeds Pisa in the number of its Inhabitants by almost one half.  
Here they carried us to see the Palace of the Republic, where the 
* Vexillifer, or Standard-bearer.  Gonfalonnier lodges with his nine Counsellors called Anziani. We were informed, that these Magistrates do also usually eat together in this Palace, while their Wives and Families in the mean time live at home. The State of Lucca is a Fief of the Empire, and under its protection: The Government is purely Aristocratical, for the Sovereignty is lodged in the Council of Two hundred and forty Nobles, who are divided into two Bodies, which succeed one another every six months, with the gonfallonier at their Head. The Office of this Chief Magistrate of the Republic is not unlike to that of the Doges of Venice and Genova, save only in this respect, that he continues but two months in the possession of the supreme Dignity, by which he receives no other Advantage than the maintaining of his Table at the public Charge, during that time. He wears a Bonnet and Stole, with a Robe of Crimson Velvet, and has the Title of a Prince, tho' he is only styled His Excellency. He may be chosen again to the same Dignity, after an interval of six years; and his ordinary Guard consists of threescore Swissers.  
From the Palace we entered into the Arsenal, where there is a considerable quantity of Arms for so small a State, and besides, they are kept in good order.  
From thence we went to the Cathedral, to see the Chapel of the Volto Santo. 'Tis said, That Nicodemus having often attempted in vain to paint a Crucifix, the Angels that beheld his fruitless Labours took his Pencil from him, and finished this Piece. They cannot give a positive account how this Picture was first brought to the Church of St. Fredian, but they assured us, that it removed from thence to the Cathedral, and remained hanging in the Air in the same place where we saw it, till they had built an Altar under it, on which it rested, and about which they afterwards built a magnificent Chapel. This Image does not work so many Miracles as several others; but every thing that it does is wonderful in the highest degree. 'Tis the principal Object of the Devotion of these People, and they stamp it on their Coin with the Arms of the Republic.  
You may easily imagine that this Crucifix met with a very kind reception at the Cathedral; 
The Cathedral is dedicated to St. Martin.  yet 'tis hard to divine the Reason why it preferred St. Martin to St. Fredian, since 'tis certain that this City was much more obliged to the latter than to the former. The number of the Favours and good Offices it received from him is almost infinite; but his saving it from the Inundation of the Cerchio deserves to be particularly remembered. One day, when St. Fredian was at Lucca, 
The River is at present two or three miles distant from Lucca.  the River began to swell prodigiously, and threatened the City with a dreadful Inundation; but the holy Man commanded it immediately to change its course, and to follow him without murmuring whithersoever he should conduct it; and his Orders were instantly obeyed, to the great Joy and Astonishment of all the People.  
In the same Saint's Church there is a Marble Table seventeen foot long, about six and a half broad, and fourteen inches thick, the Story of which is contained in the following Inscription. O quisquis legis, lapis es, ni lapis hic te moveat in admirationem & culium D. Frediani, qui templo huic construendo, molem hanc in montibus ad quartum lapidem nactus, viribus impar, sed spiritu fervens, mirâ facilitate manibus humerisque suis & Canonicorum in plaustrum binis indomitis vacculis trahendum impositum, sexto salutis saeculo, hac in Aede statuit sacrum Monumentum.  
In the middle of the same Church we took notice of a Tombstone with these words inscribed upon it, Hic jacet corpus Sancti Riccardi Regis Angliae: Here lies the Body of St. Richard King of England. I cannot imagine who this Royal Saint should be, 
* Surnamed Coeur de Lion.  Richard I. if my Memory does not deceive me, died in France of a Wound, after his return from his Voyage beyond Sea, and was interred in the Abbey of Fonteuraut. Richard II. was dethroned by the Parliament and the Duke of Lancaster, and afterwards stabbed at Pomfret, from whence his Body was carried first to St. Paul's, then to Langley, and at last to Westminster, where his Tomb still remains. And Richard III, who was no more a Saint than his two Predecessors of the same Name, but rather a very wicked man, was slain at Bosworth in Leicestershire, and buried in the City of Leicester. Besides, I do not remember that ever there was a King Richard in England before the reunion of the Heptarchy. So that this Epitaph puzzled us all: However, I will not at present entertain you with our Conjectures concerning it, but you will do us a singular pleasure by communicating yours to us.  
I cannot forbear relating to you the Story of our Lady of St. Austin's, for perhaps you never heard of a more pleasant Trick played by an Image. A certain Soldier having lost considerably at Dice, fell into a rage, and at last laid the blame of his ill Fortune on our Lady, who was then placed against the Wall of the Court of Guard, and after he had called her a thousand hard Names, to crown his Insolency, he threw a Stone at her, which was levelled directly against the Head of the little Jesus. But our Lady, says the Story, perceiving the danger, prevented the blow, by tossing her Child so nimbly from her right Arm to her left, that he received not the least hurt.  
To preserve the Memory of this Event, the little Jesus stuck so close to his Mother's left Arm, that she could not with all her strength bring him to his former place; so that she was even forced to let him have his Humour, and he remains upon her left Arm to this very day, which is looked upon as an undeniable Argument of the Truth of the Story, by the devout Pilgrims who come to visit this Image. To make an end of the Story, the Earth opened on a sudden, and swallowed up the impious Soldier. The Hole is still there, and these charitable devoties are very careful to admonish the curious Stranger not to come near it, because it is, in their Opinion, the very Mouth of Hell: but certainly such a dangerous place ought to be railed in.  
You are not ignorant that several noble 
* Calendrini, Burlamachi, Turretini, Micheli, and some others.  Families of Lucca retired to Geneva, about the time of the Reformation.  
The Country between Lucca and Florence is fertile and well cultivated. 
PISTOYA.  Pistoya is in the middle, twenty miles distant from each of 'em. This is a very poor and desolate City, especially since it lost its liberty; for tho' it can make a shift to live on the fat of the Land, it can never grow rich without Trade, of which it is wholly destitute. It is bigger than Lucca; its Streets are large and straight, and the Remainders of its ancient Beauty are sufficient to convince us that it was formerly a fine City.  
The Inhabitants of Pistoya have a particular veneration for St. James, because they were formerly assisted by him, and have still a great number of his Relics. He has a Chapel in the Cathedral, 
The Altar is covered with Plates of Silver, and surrounded with Lamps of great value. Citta Pistoyese, chiare case, obscure Chiese. The City of Pistoya has light Houses and dark Churches.  where I observed a Prayer directed to him, in which he is called the First or Chief of the Apostles; Tu qui primatum tenes inter Apostolos, imo qui eorum primus, etc.  
Some think the Factions of the Guelphs and Gibelins were so called from Guelph and Gibel, two Brothers and Gentlemen of Pistoya, of whom the elder espoused the Quarrel of Pope Gregory the Ninth, while the second asserted the Interest of the Emperor Barbarossa. But I should rather embrace the Opinion of those who derive the Names of those Factions from the illustrious and potent 
† About the Confines of Italy and Germany, on the Upper Rhine. See Maimb. of the Decadence of the Empire, l. 5.  Families of the Guelphs and Gibellins, who were at enmity with one another, long before their Jealousies and Animosity were raised to the utmost height, by their declaring, one for the Emperor, and t'other for the Pope.  
The abovementioned Etymology of St. Katherine will, I'm afraid, appear so ridiculous to you, that you will perhaps be tempted to suspect I invented it; but I assure you I took it from the famous Golden Legend: and both to clear myself of such a suspicion, and to divert you after so long a Letter, I shall subjoin some other Etymologies of the same stamp, which I read not long ago, and remember pretty exactly.  
To begin with St. Christina, my Author tells you, That her Name signifies anointed with Cream, because she had the Balm of Sweet Odour, and the Oil of Devotion. Would you not have discovered this rare Etymology at the first glance?  
Damian, he proceeds, had his Name from the Hand of God, Main de Dieu, because he wrought divinely. Beatrix is an Abridgement of two Words, Blessed and Sad, Benoiste and Triste. Martin was so called, because he kept the Field of Battle against Vices; or as one should say, Ung des Martyrs, des Martyrs ung, d' Martyrs in, Martyrin, Martin. And is not this as plain as the derivation of Equus from Alfana, or of the word Lackey from Verna? George comes from Goe or Earth, and Orge, Barley, that is a Cultivater of Barley. Siphorian is derived from Symphony, for he chanted the sweet Tunes of Virtue. Maurice comes in a straight line from Amen and Cis, that is Vomiting hard, and Us, which signifies Counsellor, or Hasty. Vomiting, by reason of his throwing off Superfluities; Hard, because be endured Torments; Counsellor, because he admonished the Knights his Companions; and Hasty, from the ardour of his Zeal. This is as clear as a Sunbeam. S. Gorgonian is originally derived from Gorgos, which signifies Subject, or from Gonos, that is, an Angel, and Denan, which is interpreted Fruit, for he was Subject to God without an Angel, and was afterwards made new Fruit by Martyrdom. Alexis is as one should say issant de Loy, issuing out of the Law, for he issued from the Law of Marriage to preserve his Virginity. Jerome comes from Norma, a Rule; Cecilia from Lis du Ciel, the lily of Heaven; Cyprian from Cypris; Saturnian from Saturace nuce, because the Pagans and Heathens glutted themselves with his Torments, as the Crow gluts herself with devouring Nuts. When you have a mind to a second Service, my venerable Legend will furnish you with a plentiful one; but I believe you have enough at present. I am,  
SIR, Your &c. Florence, May 17. 1688.   

LETTER XXVIII.  
SIR,  
I Would not neglect the occasion of writing to you the day after our arrival at Florence, tho' I could not then give you any account of this lovely City. We have seen so many things in it since, that my Journal would furnish me with sufficient matter for a Volume. But, in pursuance of my wont method, I shall in the first place give you a brief description of it, and afterwards proceed to communicate some particular Observations, which perhaps will be new to you.  
Florence, the chief City of Tuscany, Seat of an Archbishop, and Residence of the Great Duke, 
FLORENCE the Fair.  is situated on the River Arno, as it were in the middle of the Arena or bottom of an Amphitheatre. At the distance of four or five miles, excepting only the side that looks towards Pistoya, it is surrounded with very fertile Hillocks, which rise insensibly, and by degrees unite themselves to the high Mountains. The vast number of Houses which cover both the little Hills, and the interjacent Plain, make a very delightful and admirable Prospect. If from one of the Towers of Florence you took a view of this large Bottom, so full of Villages and Houses of Pleasure, you would think it were an almost infinite continuation of the Suburbs of the Town; and it may be justly said, that this rich and delicious Valley is the best inhabited place in the World.  
I was informed by a curious and exact Person, that the Walls of this City are just Fifteen thousand Two hundred and forty Brasses or Fathoms in compass; and that the River Arno, which runs through it, is Five hundred Fathoms broad; so that reckoning the double breadth of the River, with the circumference of the Walls, the Circuit of Florence amounts in all to Sixteen thousand Two hundred and forty fathoms. Three of these Fathoms make exactly five Feet and eight Inches English measure; and consequently 16240 Fathoms amount to Thirty thousand six hundred and seventy five Feet, which you may reduce as you think fit. The City is pretty round.  
The same Person assured me, that Florence contains within its Walls Eight thousand and eight hundred Houses, Sixty thousand Souls, Two and twenty Hospitals, Eighty and nine Convents, Fourscore and four Fraternities, a Hundred fifty and two Churches, Eighteen Halls or Galleries belonging to Merchants, Seventy and two Courts of Justice, six Columns, two Pyramids, four Bridges, seven Fountains, seventeen Places or Courts, and a Hundred and sixty public Statues. The Streets are paved with large pieces of a greyish Stone, called Pietra fort, which is brought from the neighbouring Quarries. A good number of the Houses are built with the same Stone, and many of 'em are extraordinarily large and beautiful. And even there are some who pretend that the Florentine Palaces, to speak after the Italian manner are the handsomest Structures in Italy.  
The 
* Near the great Gate of this Palace there is a large Magnet, which was spoiled by the Fire. Spon says, that it weighs 5000 pounds.  Palace Pitti, where the Great Duke lodges, is a magnificent Building, and extolled beyond measure by the People of the Country. Yet I observed one fault in it, which is the littleness of the Court with respect to the Building: you will be of the same opinion after I have told you, that the height of the Palace to the Cornish of the third Order amounts to a hundred and twenty two feet, and yet the Court is but a hundred and sixty foot long, and a hundred and forty broad: so that you cannot choose a place in all the Court to view the Palace, without lifting up your Head in a very troublesome manner.  
Before we entered into the old Ducal Palace, 
The four Statues of white Marble on the Bridge of the Trinity represent the four Seasons. They were made by Michael Angelo.  where all those rare and precious things are to be seen that make so great a noise in the World, we took a view of the Statues in the Place or Court. I shall only name these following; the David, by Michael Angelo; the Judith, by Donatelli; the fair Sabin Woman violently carried away, by John of Bologna; the Perseus of Brass, by Cellini; the Hercules and Cacus, by Bandinelli; and the Brass Statue on Horseback of Cosmo I, by John of Bologna. These are all admirable Pieces. The three Basso-relievo's on the Pedestal of the last-named Statue represent Cosmo I. kneeling before the Pope to 
† Obzelum Religionis, praecipuumque Justitiae Studium.  receive from him the Title of Great Duke; the same Prince making his public entry into Florence in a kind of triumphal Chariot; and the Ceremony that was solemnised when the Senate of Florence resigned the Sovereign Authority to him, by investing him with the Ducal Dignity.  
The great Gallery of the Palace is almost Four hundred foot long; the underfretting of the Roof is painted; and we walked between two Ranks of Statues and Busts, which are almost all Antique Pieces. On the top, against the Wall, are the Portraitures of the ancient Philosophers on one side, and those of famous Captains on the other.  

The Characters on the Him of his Gown are thought to be of the ancient Hetruscan Language. It is a very fine Statue.  Among the most beautiful and rare Statues they made us observe in the first place that of Brass which is clothed and thought to be Scipio's; the Leda receiving Jupiter's Embraces with a pleasure mixed with shame; the antique Bacchus, accompanied with a Copy by Michael Angelo not inferior to the Original; the Julia Daughter of Augustus, the Pomona, the Venus, the Diana, the Apollo, another Bacchus, the Peasant striking a Boar, the Busts of all the Emperors to Galienus, and especially those of Adrian, Pertinax, and Severus.  
From this Gallery we passed through several Chambers full of Rarities. I observed in the first a branched Candlestick of great pieces of Amber, a fair Column of Oriental Alabaster, a Rhinoceros' Horn of an unusual bigness, many Basso-relievo's, and other antique Sculptures; Medals, Idols, and Sepulchral Lamps; Stones, Minerals, and other natural Curiosities.  
In the second there is nothing but Pictures. 
Here they used formerly to show an Iron Nail, one half of which, they pretended, was changed to Gold; but they have left off exposing it, since 'twas discovered that the Miracle consisted wholly in the Sodering.  The third is called the Chamber of Mathematics, where among other things there are Globes and a Sphere, which contain seven feet in diameter. The fourth is hung with Pictures, which exceed those of the second; besides which, I took notice particularly of a Cabinet of Ebony, with its Ornaments of Amber, Ivory, and precious Stones; the great rough Emerald rooted in its Rock; and the Platform of Leghorn described on a Table of Lapis Lazuli. The Pictures of illustrious Persons of the present Age are the principal Ornaments of the fifth Chamber. Among the Generals of Armies and great Captains, I observed three Englishmen, Cromwell, General Monk, and the late Earl of Ossory, Son to the present Duke of Ormond. In the sixth there are a Hundred thirty and seven Pictures of the most famous Painters, done by themselves. The seventh is adorned with Vessels of Porcelain. And the five following are full of an amazing number and variety of Curiosities. They contain also great store of Arms of all Fashions and of all Countries, among which we took notice of a Musket with a Golden Barrel. Here is also the great Magnet, which used formerly to lift up fifty pounds of Iron, but at present its Vigour is much diminished. And the 
* This Horse was presented to the last Great Duke by the late Duke Charles of Lorraine.  Horse-Tail, which is twenty foot long, may be justly reckoned among these Curiosities.  
The most precious and valuable Rarities are kept in the Octogonal Room, called the 
† Built by Buontalenti.  Tribune, which is twenty foot in diameter, and is covered with an arched Dome. The Floor is paved with several sorts of Marble artificially laid together; the Walls are hung with Crimson Velvet, beautified with an infinite number of rare Ornaments; the Windows are of Crystal; and the inside of the Dome is overlaid with Mother of Pearl. Nothing is admitted into this place but what is of great value and exquisite Beauty. You have doubtless read, in Tavernier's Travels, the description of that lovely 
* This Diamond weighs a hundred thirty and nine Carats and a half. 'Tis pity says Tavernier, that the Water or Lustre of it approaches to a Citron-colour.  Diamond which justly claims the first rank among the Jewels of this Cabinet. Among other Rarities these deserve to be mentioned: an antique Head of Julius Caesar of one entire Turquoises as big as an Egg; a Cupboard full of Vessels of Agate, Lapis Lazuli, Cornelian, and Crystal of the Rock, the whole garnished with Gold and fine Jewels; a large Table and Cabinet of inlaid Work, wholly composed of oriental Jasper, Calcedony, Rubies, Topazes, and other Precious stones admirably well wrought; a Collection of very rare Medals; a prodigious number of antique Pieces of carved and engraved Work, very entire, and extremely well kept; select Pictures, or, to speak more properly, Masterpieces of the most excellent Painters; six Grecian Statues unconceivably beautiful; two Men wrestling; the Peasant whetting his Bill, and at the same time listening to Catiline's Conspiracy; a Fawn; a sleeping Cupid; a Venus six foot high, and another smaller by a foot, both of white Marble.  
You will quickly know the last, when I have told you, that it is the famous Venus of Medicis. It must be acknowledged that this is the most charming Body, and the finest piece of Workmanship in the World. The Head of this incomparable Statue is turned a little towards her left Shoulder; 
On the Base, which is of the same piece of Marble with the Statue, these are written, 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Made by Cleomenes Son of Apollodorus the Athenian.  she holds her right Hand before her Bosom, but at some distance; and with the other Hand she covers the part which Ladies blush to discover, which she does also without touching it. She bows down gently, and advances her right Knee, as it were to hid herself better if she could. That decent bashfulness which is so becoming an Ornament of the Fair Sex, with a spotless Modesty and Chastity are painted on her Face, and accompanied with a Sweetness, Beauty, Delicacy, and Air of Youth, that are altogether inexpressible. She wants nothing but Voice and Colour. Her round and tender Arm cleaves insensibly to her lovely Hand; her Neck is admirable; and, to conclude, this rare Masterpiece is a perfect imitation of the fairest Nature.  
From this Palace we passed through a little Gallery of Communication to the ancient Palace of the Republic, where we saw the Furniture of the Wardrobe, and the rich Coach that was made for the solemnity of the Great Duke's Marriage. The great Hall of this Palace is a hundred seventy and two foot long, and seventy four in breadth.  
The Cathedral is a very large and stately Building, tho' several parts of it are of a Gothic Architecture. It is all covered over, within and without, and paved throughout with polished Marble of several Colours. It's length amounts to Four hundred and ninety feet, and its height to the top of the Cross on the Globe to Three hundred and eighty. 'Tis impossible to be weary of viewing this noble Structure; but 'tis pity that it has not a Frontispiece.  
The finest Statues in this Church are, the St. James, by Sansovin, against one of the Pillars which support the Dome; the Adam and Eve behind the great Altar, by Bandinello; the Statue of God the Father, the Dead Christ, and the Angel supporting him, on the same Altar, and by the same Hand. Critics find fault with Eve, because she is of greater stature than her Husband.  
The Painting in the Dome represents the Resurrection, and is the Work of Fred. Zucchero. It is highly esteemed, tho' the Painter is blamed for representing his Rising Bodies clothed and of different ages.  

See before Letter XXIII, & XXV.  But we observed a more considerable Fault, or rather an intolerable Blunder, in a Picture in the same Church, which nevertheless was made by Paul Vccello, a very skilful and celebrated Artist. He has painted a 
* G. Acutius an Englishman, General of the Pisan Forces.  General of an Army on Horseback, and has made the Horse rest on the two Legs on the same side, while the other two are in motion: such a Mistake might perhaps be excused in a Venetian, who was never out of that City, where Horses are as great Rarities as Elephants.  
The Pieces of Moses' and Aaron's Rods are two of the most curious Relics in the Cathedral, tho' they seem to be of doubtful credit, since both the entire Rods are said to be at St. John de Lateran.  
The Steeple is very near the Church, which is a square Tower a hundred and eighty foot high, overlaid with square pieces of red, white, and black Marble, and adorned with several Statues. The old bald Man, by Donatelli is an excellent Piece. 'Tis said that Sculptor preferred his Zuccon before all his other Works, for that Figure represented one of his Friends, and really merited a particular Esteem.  
The Baptistery is lined in the same manner as the Church, and its Structure is almost like to that of the Baptistery at Pisa; 'tis believed that it was formerly a Temple of Mars. After the Alterations that were made in it, when the Cathedral was built, it was appointed to serve for a Baptistery, and dedicated to St. John Baptist. The Mosaic Work on the arched Roof is much valued; and among the Statues contained in this Temple, the Magdalen of Wood, by Donatelli, is particularly esteemed. But the most admired Pieces are, the three brazen Gates, adorned with Basso-relievo's representing some sacred Histories. That on the Backside, with this Inscription, Andreas Vgolini de Pisis me fecit 1330. is the least considerable, the other two are singularly beautiful. They never forget to tell Strangers, that Michael Angelo thought he could not admire 'em sufficiently, and esteemed 'em worthy to be the Gates of Heaven.  
Dum cernit valvas aurato ex aere nitentes  
In Templo Michael Angelus, obstupuit.  
Attonitusque diu, sic alta silentia rupit, 
Near the Church of the Trinity there is a fair Column of Porphyry, which supports a Statue of Justice greater than the Life. 'Tis said, that this Column was formerly in the Pantheon, and that it was given by the Pope to Cosmo I, Gal. Guald. Prior. There is a Proverb at Florence, which says, That Justice stands so high that none can reach it.   
O Divinum Opus! O Janua digna Polo!  
In the Court opposite to the middle Gate of this Baptistery, there are two Columns of Porphyry chained together, tho' they stand at some distance from each other. The Story says, That the Florentines having assisted the Pisans to conquer some part of the Isle of Majorca, asked two Pillars, which they found among the Spoils of the Enemies. Some add, That the Pisans being loath to part with these Monuments, but not daring to refuse 'em to their Allies, spitefully tarnished their Lustre in the Fire, and sent 'em in that condition covered with Velvet. But this Circumstance is denied by others.  
I had almost forgot to mention the other Column which stands not far from the former: it was set up for a Memorial of a pretended Miracle which happened in that place, when the Body of St. Zenobius was removed from St. Lawrence's to the Cathedral. His Shrine, says the Tradition, touched by chance the Trunk of a dry Tree which lay there, and immediately the Tree blossomed, and put forth both Flowers and Fruit; I have forgot the rest of the Story.  
St. Lawrence's Church is very large and rich; and I may venture to say, without being guilty of a Hyperbole, that the famous Chapel, on which they have wrought so long, and with so much assiduity, will, when finished, be the finest Edifice of that nature in the World. I dare not undertake to describe it, but I cannot forbear to give you some Idea of it.  
This magnificent Chapel is very large and high. In the middle of each Face of the Hexagon there rises a double Pilaster of Jasper, with a double Chapter of Brass gilt, the Base being also of the same matter. On the Pedestal of each Pilaster there are several Emblematical Figures composed of Precious Stones joined together with all the Art imaginable. In the six Angles there are six stately Tombs of Porphyry, Oriental Granate, and some other of the most precious kinds of Marble. On each Tomb there is a great 
* 'Tis said, that each Pillow cost Sixty thousand Crowns.  Pillow of Jasper enriched with divers sorts of Jewels, and on each Pillow a Crown, which is yet a great deal richer. The Pedestal or Base that supports the Tombs is overlaid with Porphyry and Calcedony, on which will be engraved the Epitaphs of the Princes for whom these Tombs are designed. Their Statues of Brass gilt, twice as big as the Life, will be placed in the Niches of black Marble that are already prepared in the Wall over the Tombs. The inner Roof of the Dome will be of pure Lapis Lazuli, with Roses and other Ornaments gilded. All the rest of the Walls is lined in Compartments with fine agates, rare Granates, Onyxes, and all sorts of Stones that are esteemed precious; each Panel being divided into squares, and embellished with other Ornaments of Copper gilt. The Altar will surpass all the other parts of this admirable Structure; and to comprehend the Beauties of 'em all, your Imagination must rise higher than my imperfect Description is able to carry it.  
The Library of St. Laurence is particularly famous for its Manuscripts. 
It is Fourscore Brasses or Fathom in length; and Twenty in breadth. The Fathom of Florence is equal to two Roman Feet; and the Roman Foot is shorter by six Lines than the English. See the Instructions to a Traveller at the end of this Volume. In this Library there is a Manuscript Virgil, of the Age of Theodosius. There is also a large Greek Manuscript, containing the Chirurgery of the Ancients, of Hypocrates, Galen, Asclepiades, Bithynus, Apollonius, Archigenes, Nymphodorus, Heliodorus, Diocles, Rufus Ephesius, and Apollodorus Citiensis; with the manner of curing Dislocations described in Figures painted on velum. This is a great Treasure, being the only Work of this nature now known to be extant. Spon.  I shall take this occasion to tell you, that M. Magliabecchi could not favour me with a sight of St. Chrysostom's Letter to Caesarius, having received express Orders from the Great Duke not to communicate it to any person whatsoever. But you may inform our Friend, that M. Magliabecchi positively assured me, that the Passage cited by Martyr is contained word for word in that Manuscript.  
We went also to the Church of the Holy Cross, principally to see the Tomb of Michael Angelo; which is certainly a very considerable Monument; tho', in my opinion, not altogether suitable to the Merit of so great a person. In the Chapel belonging to the Family of the Zanchini, in the same Church, we observed on the Altar a Picture by Angelo Bronzini, in which Christ is represented delivering the Souls of the Fathers; among whom there are many Female Spirits that appear too gay and airy for an Altar-piece. And even some say, That she who bears the Name of Eve is the true Resemblance of the Painter's Mistress. They add also, that the Figure of a Man at the right corner of the Picture below, looking steadfastly on the pretended Eve, is Bronzini's own Phiz. This puts me in mind of Pinturicchio, who, in the Vatican, painted Pope Alexander the Sixth prostrate at the Feet of Julia Farnese, under pretext of making him adore the Virgin.  
Among the holy Rarities we observed in the Churches, besides the Rods of Moses and Aaron, which I mentioned before, I shall only name the Hood St. Francis wore when he was stigmatised, which is to be seen in the Church of All-Saints. Two of Judas' thirty pieces of Silver which are preserved in the Annunei●●●, and the Crucifix that spoke to St. Andrew●●Vrsina, which is in the Church of the Carmelites.  
The Monks of St. Mark make excellent Balsams, and prepare all manner of Perfumes: we bought some of 'em, and had sometimes the pleasure to walk in their Cloisters and odoriferous Gardens, where we breathed nothing but Oranges and Jesmins: But the truth is, there is not any part about Florence that is not altogether charming. The Great Duke has several fine Houses, of which we only saw Poggio Imperiale, and Pratinola. These are very pleasant places; and I may even venture to say they have Beauties that are not common. But the magnificency of Gardens and Waterworks is advanced to such a height in France, that the best way to save the Credit of Frescati and Pratinola, is to pass over in silence all their petty Wonders that were formerly so highly extolled.  
We visited also the Arsenal, and the Citadel of St. John Baptist, which is a strong place, and kept in good order. But the two Forts of Belvedere and St. Miniato are in a manner wholly neglected.  
The Great Duke has divers Nurseries for several sorts of Animals. Villani relates, 
In the Hospital ad Scalas there is the Tomb and Epitaph of a human Monster who had two Heads and four Hands on one Body. This double man (named Peter and Paul) had different Affections. One of the Heads wept, while the other laughed; and slept while his Companion was awake. This Monster lived Twenty years and Twenty days. Schrader.  That in the year 1331, two young Lions were cubbed at Florence, who lived to grow great: The same Author writes, That at another time a Lion made his escape out of his Hole, and terrified the whole City; that having met a young Child, whom he lifted up between his Paws without hurting it, the astonished Mother ran with Cries and Tears to the ravenous Animal, who looking steadfastly upon her, restored the Child, without offering the least Violence to either of 'em.  
I must not conclude this Letter without mentioning those Stones found on the Mountains near Florence, which being sawed through the middle, and afterwards polished, some of 'em represent several sorts of Trees, and others are marked with the Figures of Towns and ruin'd Castles. Kircher calls the former Dendrites, from the Images of Trees that appear on 'em; and the same Author makes several curious Remarks on this occasion, which I will not insist upon in this place, since doubtless you remember 'em as well as I.  
There is one thing more which I must not forget to tell you; for tho' Florence is certainly one of the finest Cities in the World, and has the advantage of a most delicious situation, yet it must appear a very sad and melancholy place to those who are accustomed to enjoy the Pleasures of Society. Sir— D. who, you know, has resided here for several years, is not able to express his uneasiness under the intolerable Constraint and eternal Ceremonies of this place, and particularly exclaims against the Invisibility of the beautiful Sex; and indeed, these Customs can never be endured by any but such as are accustomed to 'em from their Infancy. I am,  
SIR, Your &c. Florence, May 23, 16●●.   

LETTER XXVIII.  
SIR,  
WE could not find one Litter at Florence, to carry us to Bologna; I know not by what Accident the whole Country was covered with a Deluge of Monks, who took up all the easy Carriages: We had two days Journey to make through a very rough and mountainous Country; 'tis true, 'tis not impassable in a Calash, but we should have been oftentimes forced to alight and walk afoot, and therefore we resolved to make use of Horses.  
The Way between Florence and Bologna is a perpetual Chain of the Apennin Mountains; the highest we met with in our passage is called Monte Juovo. The Country, generally speaking, is barren and desert, only the Valleys of 
* On the third of July 1642, this little Town was destroyed by an Earthquake. Schrad.  Scarperia, and 
† Fiorenzola was built by the Florentines, An. 1332. Villani writes, That they laid the Foundations of it under the Ascendant of the Sign Leo, that it might become a potent and durable City: But he adds, That these Precautions were very unsuccessful. Some think this is the Fidentia of the Ancients.  Fiorenzola deserve a somewhat better character: the first of these places is famous for Cutler's Work, where for five or six pence you may buy a Knife, with a dozen of Blades to one Handle; and you may have some of all prices.  
'Tis observed, that towards the Village of Pietra-mala the Air sparkles sometimes during the night.  
A little on this side, between Pietra-mala and Loyano, at the Village of Scari calassino, are the limits of Tuscany; the Great Duke of Tuscany's Arms are on one side of a Post, and the Pope's on the other.  
From the top of the last Hills which end at Bologna, we discovered the Sea on our right hand, and directly opposite to us we had a full view of the vast and admirable Plain of Lombardy, which spreads its self along the Po, between the Alps and Apennine Hills: the surface of the Sea is every where spherical, and therefore we can see but a little part of it at once; but Lombardy being exactly level, discovers a prodigious extent of Land, especially if it be viewed from a rising Ground.  
The Apennin sinks by degrees into little fertile Hills, 
BOLOGNA the Fat.  as it approaches Bologna, which is 
* On the Via Aemilia.  seated at the foot of the Hills and opening of the plain Country: to take a full prospect of it, you must go up to the Convent of St. Michael in Bosco, where at the same you will have the pleasure to see one of the most magnificent Monasteries in Italy. 'Tis certain, there are few sovereign Princes whose Palaces are near so beautiful. I know not whether the Monastery of the Dominicans, and that of St. Saviour, are inferior to this; but in the general I can assure you, the Convents in Bologna are extremely large and very magnificent.  
Bologna is the Seat of an Archbishop, 
The Archbishop has the Title of a Prince of the Empire.  and the second City in the Ecclesiastical State; 'tis reckoned to be somewhat greater and even richer than Florence, and to contain more Inhabitants by a third part: 'tis enclosed only with a single Wall, and has no Citadel. After it had been cruelly harassed by Foreign Wars and Intestine Broils, it was forced at last to throw its self into the Arms of the 
* Pope Nicholas Ann. 1278.  Pope. But tho' the People of Bologna surrendered up their Liberties, and became a part of his Holiness' Dominions, yet they made a kind of honourable composition with their new Master, and submitted only on these terms, 
† Bolognesi sensa Fisco & Citadella.  That he should never put 'em under the Lash of a Citadel; that the Estates of the Citizens should never be subject to confiscation under any pretext whatsoever; and that they should still have an Auditor of the Rota, and an Ambassador at Rome. All which Conditions have been faithfully observed hitherto.  
The University was founded in the year 425, 
In one of the Halls of the University there is a Monument erected to the honour of Gabriel Tagliacozzo, an expert Surgeon, who made artificial Noses, Ears, and Lips, of live Flesh. Huguetan.  by Theodosius the younger, but it owes its chief splendour to Charlemagne: It is with respect to this University that the City stamps upon its Coin Bononia docet; and the word Libertas is also added in the Coat of Arms.  
The little River Arno that passes by the City could not make it a fit place for Traffic, but for the Canal of Communication by which it is joined to the Po. There are in this City Four hundred Silk-mills; and besides, the Inhabitants trade in Wax, Hemp, Flax, Hams, Sauciges, Soap, Tobacco, and Perfumes: They sold their little Dogs very dear when they were more in fashion than they are at present. They tell a pleasant Story of a certain honest Traveller, a Native of Lymoges in France, who in his passage through this Town observing what vast sums were paid for these little Creatures, went immediately home to his own Country, and returned with a whole Kennel of Mastiffs, hoping to sell 'em at much dearer rates, proportionably to their weight and bulk.  
The Houses are generally built of Stone or Brick, plastered over; and there are also some of hewn Stone. Almost all the Streets have double Porticoes, as at Milan, but here they are both larger and higher, not unlike to those in Covent-Garden. The Streets are also pretty straight, and, all things considered, it may be said, that Bologna is both a good and a fine Town. The Women are not so much confined as at Florence; we saw a considerable number, and some of 'em are very handsome. The richer sort endeavour as much as they can to imitate the French Fashions, as they do almost every where else.  
General Caprara's Palace is one of the finest in the City. Here we saw many rich Spoils which he took from the Turks.  

Bonifacio VIII. P. M. ob eximia erga se merita S. P. Q. B. A. M. CCC. I.  The Cardinal-Legate, and the Gonfalonier with his Counsellor's Lodge in the public Palace, above the Portal of which there is a Statue in Brass of Gregory XIII, and on one side of it that of Boniface VIII. In the same Palace we saw the Cabinet of Curiosities of 
* Ulysses.  Aldroandus. That of the Marquis of Cospi is united to it, and the whole belongs to the City. Every Piece in these Cabinets has its Name written upon it. 
M. Lotier a Banker has an excellent Cabinet of Medals. He has two Otho's of Brass, of uncontroverted Antiquity. They are only ignorant Persons, who pretend that there are no ancient Otho's. Spon.  We observed the Picture of a Woman, whom Aldroandus says he saw, who had a long and thick Beard like a Capuchin Friar.  
But there is nothing in both these Cabinets so rare and surprising as what I am going to relate to you. In a Chamber at the side of this we saw a hundred and eighty seven Volumes in folio, all written by Aldroandus' own Hand, with more than two hundred Bags full of lose Papers: 'Tis true, the Margins are large, and the Lines at a considerable distance.  
I forgot to tell you, that between the Statues of the Popes, on the Front of this Palace, there is a Latin Inscription, which says, That the Emperor Charles V, and Pope Clement VII. meeting together at Bologna, in November 1529, gave Peace to all Italy; after which the Pope 
* Charles' V had been crowned before at Aix la Chapelle, on the 22d of October 1520. He was crowned King of Lombardy at Bologna.  crowned the Emperor in the Church of St. Petronius; that afterwards they made a triumphant procession through the whole City, and remained all the succeeding Winter together in it.  
Another Inscription relates the Miracle wrought by an Image of our Lady, who delivered Bologna from the Plague. It gins thus: Adeste O Sol & Luna Testes, etc.  
In another place, one named 
† Perhaps this was Count Ugolin of Pisa, one of the Heads of the Guelphs, whose Story and miserable End is related by J. Villani, l. 7. c. 120, 127.  Vgolino is painted on the Wall, hanging by a Foot, with these words, Vgolino traditore filatugliero alla Patria.  
The great and beautiful Fountain over-against the Palace is the Work of the famous John of Bologna, a Flemish Architect and Sculptor.  
St. Petronius' is the greatest Church in the City. Here we observed Cassini's Meridian Line, which is drawn on a Copper Plate set in the Pavement, and is Two hundred and twenty two foot long. The situation of the Church is almost East and West; so that the Line beginning at the entrance of the great Body on the left hand, passes between the Pillars without any Obstacle, almost to the end of the little Nave. Directly over the Noon-point of this Line there is a little hole in the arched Roof of the last Nave, through which a Ray of the Sun enters, and marks the Solstices and Equinoxes upon the Line. This is an unerring Sign, and the Operation may be easily performed in a convenient place; 
The Neptune and other Figures in Brass were made by John of Bologna. Antonio Lupi was the Architect, and Laureci the Designer of this Structure. L'Ascoso writes, That the Fountain cost Seventy thousand Crowns of Gold.  for the whole Secret consists in measuring the degrees on the Line, proportionably to the height of the hole through which the Ray enters.  
At the Church of Corpus Domini they show an embalmed Body, which is black and dry, like a Mummy, and pretend that 'tis the Body of a 
* Katherine Vigri.  Saint that works many Miracles. She is seated on a Stool, and muffled up in a hundred sorts of Hoods, with many Rings on her Fingers. Her Nails and Hair, if you will believe our Informers, grow as much now as when she was alive; which was the first and principal Mark of Holiness that laid the Foundation of her Fame. 'Tis impossible to behold such a ghastly Spectacle without Horror.  
They have also an extraordinary veneration for an Image of our Lady, made by St. Luke, and are persuaded that she would infallibly come once every year to visit 'em, if they did not go to her: But they are too complaisant not to take a Journey of five miles to wait upon her at the place of her residence; 
At Mount la Guardia. They are making a covered way to go in procession from the City to that Mountain; and the Work is already far advanced.  and for three days afterwards they carry her about the City with more Pomp and Ceremony than was used in the Reception of Charles the Fifth, and Clement the Seventh. The Companies of Artificers, the Fraternities, Convents, Parishes, Magistrates, Gonfalonier, and Legate, assist all together at the solemnity of this Procession. The Image is carried under a rich Canopy, and when she passes by, the Spectators throw themselves upon their Knees with Sighs and Groans that put us in mind of your Quakers in England.  
We saw also the magnificent Chapel and Tomb of St. Dominic in the Church of the Dominicans. The Benches in the Choir are adorned with inlaid Work of several colours, done by Friar Damian of Bergamo. The same Praises are given to this Work now, that were wont to be bestowed on it formerly; for commonly one half of our Actions proceeds merely from Custom: Nevertheless, that Art has been very much improved since those times; they have found out the Secret of imprinting natural Colours on Wood; and in the general such Works are now performed with quite another turn, a great deal more delicacy and exactness.  
In the same Church we saw the Tomb of 
* Called also Enzelin.  Hentius King of Sardinia and Corsica, Bastard Son of the Emperor Frederic II. That young Prince was taken Prisoner by the Bolognians, as he was coming to assist their Enemies the People of Modena. His Father left no means  to procure his Liberty; he strove in vain to move the Bolonians, both with Prayers and Threaten, and at last promised to 
†— Cum tantum Auri pro redimendo Filio polliceretur, quantum ad moenia Bononiae circulo aureo cingenda sufficeret.  surround their City with a Circle of Gold; but they would never be persuaded to deliver their Prisoner. 'Tis true, they maintained him at the public charge, and treated him as a King, but as a captive King. He lived Two and twenty years, nine months, and sixteen days in confinement, and died in March 1272. There is an Epitaph on his Tomb that gives a particular account of the whole Story.  
When I reflect on the Emperor's Offer, and the Obstinacy of that little Republic, I cannot forbear suspecting that there was some Mystery in the Golden Circle: If Frederic had intended to make his promised Chain heavy, 'tis probable he would have offered some particular Sum, without using the ambiguous Expressions of Circles and Surrounding. And the Bononians would not have been so inexorable, if they had not feared to be deceived, and perhaps imagined that the Circle would at last dwindle into a Thread.  
Near the great Tower 
‖ This Tower was erected by Gerard Asinelli, An. 1109, it is 376 foot high. The Garisenda was built by Otho, and Philip Garisendi, Ann. 1110. It's height amounts to 130, and its inclination to 9 feet. Gal. Guald.  Asinelli there is another, called Garisenda, which leans like the Tower of Pisa. The general Opinion is, that its Inclination is an effect of the singular Art of the Builder, whose Wit is no less admired here than the Timorousness of certain Monks is derided, who were so terrified by the leaning of the Tower, that they resolved to leave their Convent, which lay under it.  
The Opinion of those who pretend that this Monument was purposely erected in a leaning posture, does certainly proceed from their Ignorance. It is a square and even Tower built of Brick, like that of Sienna and Viterbo, mentioned in one of my preceding Letters; it was not designed for an Ornament, nor erected to display the Wit of the Architect; and, without doubt, it was more for the Interest of those that built it to secure the stability of its Foundations, than to affect an useless singularity in its Structure. And, after all, it would not be a very difficult task to build an inclining Tower; you are not ignorant of the Reasons on which such an Operation might be grounded, and you may try the Experiment when you please, by making a pile of the Men on your Tables. This Tower puts me in mind of a Story related by Childrey, one of your English Naturalists, that there is a Steeple in Bristol which is variously agitated, according to the motion of the Bells.  
Before I came hither I had seen the Epitaph of that Proculus who lies interred in St. Proculus' Church in this City; 
Si procul à Proculo, Proculi campana fuisset;  
Jam procul à Proculo, Proculus ipse foret.  But I always fancied, according to the common Opinion, that St. Proculus' Bell had knocked out his Namesake's Brains; whereas I'm informed here, that this Proculus being a very studious person, accustomed himself for several years to rise every Morning at the sound of that Bell; which was at last the occasion of his death.  
The shining Stones so generally known under the name of the Bononian Stones, are found on the Hill of Paderno, three miles from the City. Barthol. Zunicheli is the only person that knows how to prepare 'em.  
We find the Heats no less troublesome here than among the sandy Mountains of the Apennins; but to make amends, we have Ice and all sorts of cooling Liquors: through all the Country the Men use Fans as well as the Women; there are some made of Paper, not unlike to a Fane or Weatherflag, and sold for a penny. In our Inn we had a Machine that played on the Table to drive away the Flies.  
We were frequently entertained with Lake-Tortoises, about the bigness of Trenchers; their Flesh is firm, and of a pretty good savour.  
Last night about Sunsetting we left Bologna, and travelled ten miles to San●ogia, a little Village equally distant from that City and Modena. We are assured, that henceforward the whole Country, as far as the Alps, is as smooth and even as a Bowling green, and that all the ways are bordered with tilled Grounds, and Vines supported by Trees planted Chequerwise: we have been already accustomed to such Objects in several parts of Lombardy, and must expect to meet with almost nothing else: such a Disposition of the Country is certainly good in its own nature, and very pleasant, but at last it grows offensive to the Eye of a Traveller; for the Sight is perpetually bounded with rows of Trees, and wants the necessary diversion of Variety.  
Yesterday in the Evening, 
I have read in an English Relation of the American Islands, that there are great shining Flies in Barbadoes, which might serve for Candles: and that the Indians usually tie 'em to their Arms and Legs, when they travel in the night.  as we drew near to the abovementioned Village, we saw a thing that appeared very unusual, and not unpleasant to us, tho' 'tis not at all heeded by the People of the Country, by reason of its commonness. All the Hedges were covered with prodigious Swarms of Shining Flies, and every Bush seemed to be on fire. The Fields and Trees were no less full of 'em, and the whole Air was brightened by their lustre. You would have sworn, that either it reigned Stars, or that these Luminaries flew through the Skies; at least Philo would have been of that Opinion, who imagined all the Stars to be living Creatures.  
These little 
* They are called Lucciole.  Infects are almost of the shape of Locusts, but they are not above two Lines and a half long, and one Line in breadth. The shining part is a little pale yellow Hair under their Belly, which is stretched at every motion of their Wings, and at the same time darts forth a very bright glance of Fire.  
We set forwards this morning very early, and in two hours arrived at Modena. By the way we saw the Fort of 
† This Fort has four Bastions, which bear the names of St. Mary, St. Peter, St. Paul, and St. Petronius.  Vrban VIII, and a little on this side of it we crossed the River Panaro, which separates the Territory of Bologna from the Duchy of Modena.  
Modena is situated in a good Country, 
MODENA▪  but it is destitute of Trade, and consequently poor. Its Fortifications are in a decaying condition, and its Streets are little and dirty. The Porticoes with which almost all the Streets are bordered, as at Bologna, are low and narrow; neither are any of its Churches very remarkable. Fine Houses are Rarities in this place; and, all things considered, I may venture to assure you, that it would be hardly taken notice of, but for its ancient Reputation, and the residence of its Duke in i● at present. The old Palace is an inconsiderable Building, but the new one, which is partly founded on the Ruins of the former, has very promising Beginnings: The Stables are handsome, and well stored. These are all the Beauties of Modena, with its Street appointed for Races, and the Walks on the Ramparts. I am,  
SIR, Your &c. Modena, May 28. 1688.   

LETTER XXX.  
SIR,  
OUR Calashes brought us in four hours from Modena to Regio. 
REGIO.  There is nothing particularly remarkable in this City; but in the general 'tis better built, and more pleasant than Modena. They boast much of their 
* Huguetan says there are two famous Pictures in it, one by Corregio, and the other by Guido: but he forgets to tell us what they are.  Church of St. Prosper, but they who have seen Rome and Naples will hardly be persuaded to admire the Churches of Regio. They strive also to gain some Reputation by their Works in Bone, and Spurs; as those of Modena do by their Masks; but these are poor Exploits to acquire Fame. Their finest Works in Bone are paltry little Rings, sold for  a dozen, Death-heads, Shrines for Relics, Agnus Dei's, and Crosses, all which are made with Tools like Hedging Bills. They have store of 
† Or Images of our Lady.  Madones, and Relics. I am informed, that some ancient Inscriptions have been found at Regio, in which that City is called Regium Lepidi, without mentioning who that Lepidus was. The other Regio in Calabria ulterior bore the name of Regium Julium; and 'tis observed, that the Inhabitants of the first were by the Latin Authors called Regienses, whereas those of the latter were named Rhegini. And the last Regium or Rhegium is also thought to be derived from the Greek word 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉, because Italy is divided, and as it were broken from Sicily at that place.  
The Inhabitants of our Regio style their Prince Duke of Regio and Modena; as, you know, the Scots put the name of their Country before that of England, in the Title of the King.  
Eight miles from Regio we passed over the River Ensa on a Bridge, and entered, on the other side, into the Duchy of Parma. The Country is still plain, but we meet with many Pastures; whereas about Bologna and Modena almost all the Grounds are tilled.  
Parma is seventeen miles from the Bridge of Ensa; we perceived the City at a considerable distance, because of the breadth and straightness of the Road that leads to it, which discovers its highest Spires. The entry into it is very pleasant, and the City itself deserves the same Character. Over the Gate through which we entered we saw the Arms of Pope Paul III You know that Pontife created his Bastard Son Lewis, Duke of Parma and Placenza, these Territories having been before united to the Ecclesiastical State. The Citadel of Parma was built on the Model of that of Antwerp; and the Fortifications of the City are also very good. It is divided by the River of Parma, which runs through the middle of it; but this River is not navigable.  
There is nothing extraordinary in the Ducal Palace, but they are building another which will be larger and more regular. The Stables are handsome, the Coaches very rich, and the Wardrobe well furnished. The great Theatre is a very rare Structure, and neither Paris nor Venice can boast of the like. It is extremely large, and yet the softest Whisper may be heard through all the parts of it. Instead of Boxes, the Floor is surrounded with Benches, raised after the manner of an Amphitheatre: It is also much larger than the Floors of theatres are usually made, and may be filled with Water to the height of above three feet. This little Lake is covered with gilt Boats, which make a very charming Spectacle, by the help of a fine illumination.  
Besides the ordinary Schools of the University, there is a large and fair College, called the College of the Nobility. They receive Scholars of all Nations, who are capable of being admitted Knights of Malta. Not only the Sciences, but all manner of Exercises are taught here; and the Pensions are different, according to the variety of the Studies. The Scholars eat together in a Refectory, and their number at present amounts to Two hundred and thirty.  
The Dome of the Cathedral was painted by Corregio; and there are several good Pictures in the 
* At St. John's and St. Anthony's.  Principal Churches.  
We saw a great deal of good Company at the Race, especially fair and handsome Women, but they observe the ridiculous Customs of Rome: for Persons of different Sexes never go into the same Coach; you may see a heap of Men in one Coach, and a troop of Women in another; and they would be as much ashamed to be seen together, as to walk stark naked about the Streets. Is there not a strange Medley of Humours and Prejudices in the World?  
Parma is 35 miles distant from Placenza. In our Journey thither we passed by a little dismantled Town called St. Donino; we saw neither Villages nor Rivers on all this Road, that deserve to be mentioned.  

PLACENZA.  Placenza is seated in a Plain, five or six hundred paces from the Po. It is a pleasant Town, bigger than Parma; the Houses are low, but very prettily built. The Race-street, which they call the Stradone, is straight as a Line, and of an equal breadth throughout. Next the Houses, on each side of it, there is a Footpath fenced in by a row of Three hundred Posts, as at London; these Posts are just ten foot distant from each other; whence 'tis plain, that the whole Street is 3000 foot long.  
The Statues of Alexander Farnese Governor of the Spanish Netherlands, and of his Son Rainuccio the First, are in the great Place.  
We went up to the top of the highest Steeple, according to our usual custom, from whence we discovered an admirable Landscape, extremely embellished by the course of the Po; and even saw Cremona distinctly, which is twenty miles distant from this place.  

There are some Pictures by Carache in the Cathedral; and an Image of our Lady by Raphael, at St. Sixtus'. Hug.  I have not thought fit to mention the Churches of this City, and am resolved hereafter to trouble you very rarely with Descriptions of that nature; for, as I intimated to you before, when one's Head is full of the Ideas of such magnificent Churches as we have seen, 'tis almost a pain to him to look upon any others.  
I shall only add concerning Placenza, that it is thinly inhabited; that the Houses are generally built of Brick; and that its Weights, Measures, and Coins are different from those of Parma. Its Fortifications are not very considerable, tho' they are commonly much extolled. The Pomaerium is surrounded with Posts, without any Buildings; I know not whether I made the same Observation concerning Leghorn, in one of my former Letters.  
We followed the course of the Po, at some distance, till we came over against Cremona, where we crossed over the River in a Ferry-boat. There are no Bridges on the Po below Turin.  
Cremona is seated on the left Bank of that River, in the Duchy of Milan. 
CREMONA.  'Tis a pretty large City, but even poorer and less populous than Placenza. There is nothing at all to be seen in it, tho' its Tower and Castle are very much extolled. One of their Authors has the confidence to tell the World, That the Tower is reckoned to exceed all others in height, and for that reason esteemed one of the Wonders of Europe; and That the Castle is the strongest and most formidable Citadel in Italy. If I had not been accustomed to the lofty and hyperbolical Expressions of the Italians, I should have been strangely surprised, after all these Rhodomontades, to find nothing at Cremona worth observation. The Castle is an old, shapeless, and half-ruined Mass, which in its best state deserved not to be compared to a well contrived Fort, but perhaps might have been reputed tolerable in the days of Crossbows. And the Tower is neither handsome nor very high, but inferior to a thousand that are not so much as mentioned. It was built by Frederic Barbarossa, An. 1184. There is a Tradition, that the Emperor Sigismond and Pope John XXIII, went up to this Tower, with a certain 
* Gabrino Fondulio Tyrant of Cremona. C. Tor.  Lord of Cremona, who repent afterwards, as he several times declared, That he did not throw 'em down from top to bottom, merely for the rarity of the thing. And perhaps it was this Story that gave the first occasion to the Reflections that have been made on the height of this Tower.  
The Inhabitants of Cremona boast much of the Antiquity of their City, but they produce not any Monuments to confirm it. The Antiquity of Cremona has a very near resemblance to that of the Po  
In the distance of Forty miles from Cremona to Mantua, we saw nothing but Hamlets that deserve not to be named. 
BOZZOLO.  Only Bozzolo is a sort of a little City, enclosed with certain Works which pass for Fortifications. It gives Title to a Duke, who, besides this place, is Sovereign of a Territory that ex●ends four or five miles. We passed the Oglio in a Ferry boat, a great and rapid River, that falls from the Lake of Isseo into the Po  
I soon perceived, that neither the Geographical Charts, nor the other Descriptions I had seen of Mantua had given me a just Idea of its situation; 
MANTUA.  for it is usually but falsely represented in the midst of a Lake, with which it is almost equally surrounded. To rectify this Mistake, it must be observed, that the 
* Which comes from the Lake of Guarda.  River Mincio meeting with a flat Country, makes a kind of Marish about twelve or fifteen times longer than broad: and that the City is built on a spot of firm Land, within the Marish, but towards one side of it. Before we entered the City, we passed over a Causey, 
The Marquisat of Mantua was advanced to the Title of a Duchy by Charles V, An. 1530.  which is not above two or three hundred paces long; but on the other side which looks towards Verona, the Marish, or Lake (if it must be so called) is much wider. In some parts of it the Water is always in motion, but in others it stagnates and infects the Air to such a degree, that during the great Heats, the City is only inhabited by such who cannot conveniently leave it.  
The situation of Mantua is not unlike to that of Peronne, but with this difference, that the last, besides its Marish, is well fortified; whereas Mantua is enclosed only with a Wall, tho' 'tis also defended by a strong Citadel.  
This City is of an indifferent largeness, about the bigness of Cremona, but much superior to it both in Riches and in the number of Inhabitants. Some of the Streets are broad and straight, but the Houses are generally unequal, and almost all very indifferent. I have seen a printed description of the Ducal Palace, in which that Building is extolled as the most magnificent Structure in Italy. 'Tis plain, that the Author wracks his Fancy to invent new Terms, as if those that are now in use were not strong enough to express the Grandeur of his Subject; but such a groundless Zeal must either be an Effect of an excessive and unwarrantable Complaisance, or proceed from an unjust Prejudice. The outside of this Structure is neither beautiful nor regular; and I can assure you from my own Experience, that a Stranger may pass by it, and even look upon it and touch it, without imagining it to be a Palace. 'Tis true, there are many Galleries and Apartments in it, and therefore it may be called large and commodious, which are the highest Epithets that can be bestowed on it, as well as on White hall.  
Our Guides assured us, that this Palace was very richly and magnificently furnished before it was 
* The 18th of July, 1630.  pillaged by the Imperial Army. It seems succeeding Princes have been discouraged by the greatness of that loss from endeavouring afterwards to repair it; for many of the Rooms remain still empty. Nevertheless, it must be acknowledged, that there is not the least defect in the Duke's Apartment: the Hall of Antiquities is full of rare and fine Pieces, and the Cabinet of Curiosities is extremely well furnished.  
Of seven or eight Pleasure-houses that belong to the Duke of Mantua, we saw only Marmirol and la Favourite, which are very lovely Seats. Marmirol especially is a charming place, admirably well furnished, adorned with Pictures and Antiquities, and embellished with several Gardens, Orange-walks, Bird-houses, and Fountains; besides which it enjoys the advantageous Neighbourhood of a Wood, and of a delicious and limpid Brook.  

See Mezeray in the Life of Charlemagne.  The Reverend Mr. St. Longin is the most precious Relic in Mantua, together with some Drops of that miraculous Blood which was found in this City in the time of Leo III, and 
* This Order was instituted An. 1608, by Vincent Gonzaga, at the marriage of his Son with Margaret of Savoy. He created Twenty Companions of the Order, and put this Devise about the Collar, Nihil isto Triste recepto.  afterwards gave occasion to the Institution of the Duke of Mantua's Order. Both these venerable Rarities are kept in St. Andrew's Church, at the entry of which I observed another extraordinary Piece; 'tis a Bell almost six foot in diameter, with eight openings like Windows, three foot high, and one broad in its circumference. They told us some Stories concerning the oddness of its Fabric, but without the least appearance of Truth.  
'Tis impossible to leave Mantua without remembering Virgil, who was born in the Village of Andes near this City.  
Mantua Musarum domus, atque ad Sidera cantu  
Evecta Andino. Sil. Ital. l. 8.  
Besides the Cathedral, Strangers usually visit the Churches of the Jesuits, of St. Barnabas, St. Maurice, St. Sebastian, St. Ursula, and St. Barbara; the Townhouse, Theatre, Manufactories, Mill of the Twelve Apostles, Synagogue, and Shambles.  
Two and twenty miles from Mantua we passed over a River which separates that Duchy from the Signiory of Venice; and eighteen miles further we arrived the same Evening at Bressa, 
BRESSA.  where we lodged. The first Object that struck our Eyes as we entered into this City, was the sight of Women in the Streets and Shops, as 'tis usual in France and England; for we had seen none of that Sex since our arrival at Verona. Bressa seems to be pretty well stored with Inhabitants, and a place of Traffic; People stir about here after quite another manner than in most Towns of an indifferent largeness, we have hitherto seen in Italy.  
The Fortifications of this City are inconsiderable, but it is defended by a very strong Citadel, which stands on a little Hill adjoining to the City, and as it were on the first step of the Alps.  
The Palace of Justice is a great and fair Building of a certain hard Stone resembling Marble. On the Pediment of the Front are these words written, 
Justiciae with a c.  Fidelis Brixia Fidei & Justiciae consecravit. Opposite to this Palace there is a Portico five hundred paces long, and almost quite filled with Armourers Shops. The Fire-Arms that are made here are famous through all Italy.  
The Neighbourhood of the Alps furnishes this City with a great number of fine Springs, and a very commodious Rivulet.  
In the Cathedral they preserve with a great deal of Veneration that which they call Constantine's Oriflame, but we could meet with none that were able to give us an exact description of it, because it is never fully shown. The Sexton, who entertained us with a Relation of its Virtues, told us only that it is a blue Cross, of unknown matter, and that it is the same that appeared to Constantine with this Motto, In hoc Signo vinces, in the Battle which that Emperor fought against Maxentius; but we must not give Credit to this account of it. The Cross or Figure of a Cross mentioned in that Story, was only a sign that appeared in the Air, and not a palpable Cross; nor can it be properly called an 
* Some derive the word Oriflame from Flammula, a Banner or Standard, and Aurea, Golden, because it was fastened to the end of a gilt Lance. Others think it was so called because it was made of a sort of Gold and Flame-coloured Stuff. It was adorned with green Tassels. Du Cange.  Oriflame, which signifies a sort of gilt Banner or Standard. Mezeray tells us, That under the second Race of Kings, St. Martin's Cope was born at the Head of the French Armies. But he adds, That the Race of the Capets having a particular Veneration for St. Denis, made use of the Banner called Oriflame, which belonged to that Saints Church. Perhaps than the Oriflame at Bressa may be the 
† The Labarum was a purple Banner, which was never made use of, but when the Emperor commanded the Army in person. It was enriched with Fringes of Gold, and Jewels. Constantine ordered this cipher to be written on it, which consists of the first Letters of the Name of Christ,  Labarum, to which Constantine added the Name of Christ, after his Victory over Maxentius. But to speak more reasonably, give me leave to say, that this Vision seems to be the Product of some Enthusiastical Brain, as well as that shining Image of the Virgin, holding the little Jesus in her Arms, which the Tyburtin Sibyl showed to Augustus in the Air.  
All the way from Bressa to Bergamo we coasted the Ridge of the Alps on our right hand, at the distance of two or three miles. We passed over the River Oglio a second time at Palazzuolo, which is seated exactly in the middle between the two abovementioned Cities, being Fifteen Miles distant from each of 'em.  

BERGAMO.  Bergamo is a strong Town, and a place of Traffic, seated on a little Hill at the foot of the Alps. Besides its Fortifications, which are well lined, and in good repair, it has a Citadel with some Forts and advanced Works, which defend the rising Grounds that command it. It has also five Suburbs, which are singly worth a little Town.  

Ambrose Calepin lies interred at the Austin's He was born at Calepio a Village near Bergamo.  When Travellers visit the Cathedral, they show 'em the Tomb of the brave Barth. Coglione Commander of the Venetian Forces against Milan, and the first General who brought 
* Angli in oppugnatione Cenomanorum primum Aeneis Tormentis utuntur, & Urbe potiuntur, An. 1425. Pol. Virg.  Canons into the Field. They make 'em also take notice of the inlaid Work of the Benches in the Choir of the same Church. It is of the same nature, and done by the same Hand as that we observed in the Church of the Dominicans at Bologna.  
The Bergamese Jargon is reckoned so ridiculous, that all the Italian Buffoons affect to imitate it. But there is another thing that makes the People of this City far more unpleasant and disagreeable; one▪ half of 'em have Wens or lumps on their Throats, which disfigure their Countenances, and in my Opinion are very unseemly Blemishes. These Swell are in a manner natural to 'em; and, if we may give credit to the common Report, they doubt whether it be a greater Imperfection to have or to want these Tumours. 
Henry VIII. King of England used to bless Gold Rings, which, he pretended, cured the Cramp. But his Son Edward slighted this kind of Talisman. William III, now reigning, has also rejected and abolished the superstitious Custom observed by the Kings his Predecessors since Edward the Confessor, to touch those who were troubled with Scrofulous Tumours, or the King's Evil.  You know, without doubt, that the Princes of the House of Austria pretend to cure this Distemper, by giving a Glass of Water to drink; and to untie the Tongues of Stammerers by kissing 'em.  
The Territories of Bergamo and Milan are watered throughout with Rivulets which fall from the Alps, and are upon occasion divided by the Inhabitants into an infinite number of Canals, which by moistening the Fields prevent the ill consequences of Droughts, and make the Lands extremely fertile.  
The Inundation of the River Adda, which comes from the Lake of Como, obliged us to leave our Calashes at a Village called Canonica, twelve miles from Bergamo, where we passed over the River in a Boat, tho' not without a great deal of difficulty, by reason of its extraordinary rapidity. We embarked on the other side, on the Canal called 
* Navilio della Marresana.  Navilio, which gins at Trezzo two miles above Canonica, and reaches in a straight line within half a mile of Milan, its whole length amounting to twenty miles. It derives Water from the Adda, the course of which River is in many places very steep, and meets with several Falls before it reaches the level of the flat Country, so that it is lower than the Canal by five and twenty or thirty feet over against Canonica.  
'Tis said, that many Engineers had in vain attempted to bring the Waters of the Adda to Milan by way of a Canal, till at last Leonard de Vinci, the most accomplished man of his Age, undertook and finished the work.  
I read t'other day with equal Admiration and Pleasure, the Account Mr. Felibien gives of that great Man, who, I'm apt to think, had a larger stock of Merit than ever any Man before him could boast of. I cannot forbear making a short digression on this occasion, which I hope will not offend you. That illustrious Florentine was a man of great stature, of a good aspect, and sweet temper: he was prudent, courteous, full of Wit, Courage, and Generosity. He was so prodigiously strong, that he was able with one Hand to twist the Clapper of a Bell. He was an excellent Horseman, danced admirably well, was brave and dextrous in managing all sorts of Weapons, and a perfect Master in all genteel Exercises. All the World knows, that he was one of the best Painters of the Age▪ and that he and Michael Angelo made Raphael leave his first way of Drawing. Besides all these excellent Endowments, our Leonard was a skilful Architect, a good Sculptor, a great Master in Mechanics, a learned Mathematician, Musician, Anatomist, Philosopher, Poet and Historian. Providence could not in Justice put an end to so rare a Life without a distinguishing Event. At the age of Seventy and Five years he fell sick at Paris, and Francis the First honoured him with a Visit; he endeavoured to express his acknowledgement of so great a Favour, by raising himself up, and expired in the King's Arms, who advanced to hinder him from rising.  
The Merit of this great Person was the Subject of our Discourse in our passage along his lovely Canal, which gave us the prospect of a delicious Country on both sides, and is in many places bordered with pleasant Houses, Orchards and Gardens, like that which leads from Delft to Leyden, or from Amsterdam to Vtrecht.  
I did not intent to have written to you before our departure from Milan; but I could not forbear adding this to the other Letters I am obliged to write on this occasion. I am,  
SIR, Your &c. Milan, June 7th. 1688.   

LETTER XXXI.  
SIR,  
THO' the City of Milan has been often wasted, 
MILAN the Great.  and even 
* An. 1162. Frederic I, called Barbarossa, razed it, and sowed it with Salt, sparing only some Churches.  utterly destroyed by the terrible Scourges of War and Pestilence, it is so well recovered at present, that it may be justly reckoned among the best and finest Cities in Europe. It's Figure is pretty round, its Walls are ten miles in compass, and I'm positively assured, that it contains no less than Three hundred thousand Inhabitants. There are not many Instances of so great a City built in the middle of the Land, without the conveniency of the Sea, or of a 
† The Country abounds with good Springs and Rivulets. Besides, the Canal brought from the Adda fills the Ditch of she inward Enclosure of the City with running Water. The Fortifications, or outward Enclosure, were erected since the destruction of the City by Barbarossa. Galeazzo Visconti, Father of Azzo, attempted to make a navigable Canal between Milan and Pavia, but the execution of that Design was prevented by the death of the Undertaker. The beginning of that Canal is still to be seen near the Gate of Pavia.  River.  
I remember a certain Latin Author informs us, That Mediolanum or Mediolana took its name 
* Circa annum Mundi 4809. Mediolana Civitas conditur, sic dicta quod ibi apparuit Sus, quae pro media parte portabat Lanam pro pilis, Wern. Roolwinck. Et quae lanigera de Sue nomen habet. Sidon. Apoll.  à Sue dimidiâ lanatâ, from a Sow half covered with Wool, that was found in the place where the City was founded.  
The first thing that our Guide carried us to see was the famous 
† There are two descriptions of this Cabinet, one in Latin, by Paulus Maria Tarzago; and the other in Italian, by Pi. Fran. Scarabelli.  Cabinet of the late Canon Manfredi Settala, a Person equally noble and rich, and no less dextrous in working with his own Hands than ingenious and skilful in all the various parts of Learning. Such a man could not but make a good choice; neither is there any thing in this Cabinet that deserves not to be considered with attention.  
Here we observed several sorts of very ingenious Machines', contrived for finding out the perpetual Motion, Looking-glasses of all sorts, Dial's, Musical Instruments both ancient and modern, some of which were invented by Settala himself; Books, Medals, curious Keys and Locks, Seals, Rings, Pictures, Indian Works, Mummies, Arms, Strange Habits, Lamps, Urns, Idols, with an infinite number of other sorts of Antiquities; Fruits, Stones, Minerals, Animals; a prodigious variety of Shells; Works in Steel, Wood, Amber, and Ivory; a great piece of Cloth made of the Stone Amianthos; and, without engaging further in those tedious Enumerations I promised to avoid, all the most rare and curious Productions of Art and Nature, not forgetting Monsters.  
The Dish of yellow Amber, two foot in diameter, is a Piece that deserves to be particularly mentioned.  
There are also several rough Pieces of the same sort of Amber, enclosing Grasshoppers, Spiders, Aunts, Flies▪ and several other sorts of Infects, which appear distinctly in the middle of 'em. This, in my Opinion, is an evident Argument, tho' there are many different Opinions concerning the Nature of Amber, that it is nothing else but a kind of Gum or Bituminous Matter, hardened in the Air or Sea, or perhaps by some other cause, which I will not examine at present. When an Ant, for example, happens to pass over a raw and clammy piece of this Bitumen, she is entangled by it, and the mass of that soft and unctuous matter growing harder and bigger by degrees, the Insect is for ever entombed in it. And this is exactly the Opinion of Martial.  
Dum Phaëtontaeâ formica vagatur in umbrâ,  
Implicuit tenuem succina Gutta Feram,  
Sic modò quae fuerat vitâ contempta manente,  
Funeribus facta est tunc pretiosa suis.  
'Tis certain that unicorns are mere Chimeras, and that the Horns usually ascribed to 'em are the Horns or Pricks of a certain Fish found in the Northern Seas. Yet there are three or four of these Horns in this Cabinet, which, they pretend, grew on that imaginary Animal. The Venetians have the same Opinion of the Horns in their Treasury; and many others are possessed with like Prejudices. Never any man saw an Unicorn, and yet the whole World is full of its Horns; I'm sure, for my part, I have seen above a hundred. 'Tis to be observed, that there are also Fossil Horns exactly like to those that grow on Fishes, tho' of a different matter.  

Montaign pretends that the Remora is a Shellfish.  The Remora that stopped the Galley of the Unfortunate Anthony, is another fabulous Animal▪ which, for all its Fame, may be placed in the rank of unicorns. Yet this also must increase the number of the Curiosities of well-furnished Cabinets, lest any thing should seem to be wanting. They choose for this purpose certain small and rarely-observed Fishes, about the bigness of Herrings. I have seen at least a dozen of 'em and am sure that of the whole number there were not two of the same kind.  

The Foundations of it were laid on the 13th of June, 1386, by John Galeas Visconti, first Duke of Milan. There was formerly in the same place a Church called St. Marry major, it stands in the Centre of the City.  The Cathedral Church is a prodigious Work. 'Tis, according to my observation, less than St. Peter's at Rome by almost a sixth part, but infinitely superior to it in the laboriousness of its Structure. 'Tis covered all over, without and within, with Sculptures and Ornaments in Marble; so that you cannot perceive the Ground, nor lay your Hand on any even or unwrought part. You are not a stranger to the Gothic way of Building; and to form a just Idea of this Edifice, you must imagine a Medley of Roses, Boughs of Trees, Animals, Grotesque Figures, Pyramids, Niches, Statues, and Representations of a Thousand different things, which dazzle the Eye of the Spectator by their Variety and Confusion.  
There are only some parts of this Church perfectly finished; for 'tis the Interest, and very probably the design of the Chapter, to leave it still imperfect. The Legacies and other Donations that are bestowed upon 'em for the building of the Church, bring vast Sums into their Coffers, which they apply to other uses. Here I observed an Inscription in Gold Letters engraved on Marble, which says, 
Templi hujus frontierigendae, atque ornandae, CCXXX. Aureorum millia legavit, Jo. Petrus Carcanus Mediol. etc.  That one John Carconus a Milanese left at his death the sum of Two hundred and Thirty thousand Crowns of Gold, to be employed in building and adorning the Front of this Church. They have perhaps received a thousand times as much for the same use from other Testators; nevertheless the Front remains still almost naked: but this is a sure Device to drain the Purses of superstitious Persons.  
Besides, to speak ingenuously, I believe there was another reason that retarded the building of this Front. If they considered the Rules of Uniformity, they found that it ought to be made Gothic, as well as the rest of the Church; but a nicer and more refined Judgement required it to be more regularly built. I observed both sorts of Architecture in that part of it which is already begun; from whence 'tis plain, that the Contrivers of it were very much puzzled, and uncertain what methods to follow. But their best course is to be still taking, and not trouble their Heads with other matters.  
Martin the Fifth having 
* October 16. 1648, above an hundred thousand Strangers came to Milan, to see the Ceremony: and many Persons were stified in the Crowd. Morigi.  blessed the Altar, before St. Charles Borromeo consecrated the Church, the 
† 
This Statue was made by one Jacobinus, who, in the Inscription under it is said to exceed Praxiteles.  
Praestantis Imaginis Author,  
De Tradate fuit Jacobinus in arte profundus,  
Non Praxitele minor sed major farier ausim.  
The last Verse limps. Near this Statue is that of Pius IU.   Statue of that Pope was erected in the Quire. He is represented without a Beard, and with the Face of a young Man, tho' he was Fifty years old when he was advanced to the Papal Chair. Behind the Choir the Catalogue of the Relics in this Church is engraved on two Tables of Marble, among which I observed a piece of 
‖ This Rod or Wand is said to be entire at St. John de Lateran. Besides this Piece, there is another at Florence, as I intimated before; and Baronius relates, after Glaber, that there was a third found at Sens, Anno 1008. Rabbi Abarbinel, after a long dissertation, and many trifling Conjectures concerning this Wand, concludes, that Moses carried it to the Mountain where he died, and that it was afterwards placed in his Tomb. But, after all, it was never known what became either of this or of the Ark.  Moses' Rod. The 
‡ 'Tis the Opinion of some Authors, That Theodosius the Great gave this Nail to St. Ambrose; others say, that Saint went to look for it in the Shop of a certain Ironmonger at Rome, called Paolino, where he was warned in a Dream that he should find it.  Nail of the Crucifixion of which they say Constantine made a Bit for a Bridle, is the most respected Relic in Milan. 'Tis kept on the great Altar, surrounded with five Lights which burn night and day. In the year 1576. Cardinal Borromeo, called St. Charles, carried it in a solemn procession to stop the Plague; he walked barefoot, with a great Rope about his Neck, tho' he was also clothed with the usual Ornaments of a Cardinal.  
The 
* This Pavement is not yet finished. The Charge of it will amount to Threescore and six thousand Two hundred and ninety Crowns, without reckoning that of the Choir, which has already cost Five thousand Two hundred and fifty. Morigi.  Pavement of this Church is finer, and more solid, than that of St. Peter's at Rome, where the Floor is laid with thin Leaves of Marble, which begin already to cleave, and will in a short time be quite raised up, whereas here the pieces are very thick.  
There are always Masons hewing Stone, and Women spinning, sewing, and selling Fruit in the middle of the Church: besides, 'tis dark, and many parts of it imperfect. All which Considerations laid together, will easily convince you, that the inside of it can neither charm nor surprise the Eye of a curious Beholder.  
We went up to the Steeple, from whence we had a view not only of Milan, but of four or five other Cities in the vast Plain of Lombardy. We discovered also the Alps, which are united to the Apennine Mountains towards Genova. The great Bell bears the name of St. Ambrose; it contains seven feet in diameter, and weighs Thirty thousand pounds.  
Over against the Church there is a pretty large Place, where, in the Evening, I usually observed about thirty Coaches, which moved and stopped from time to time, that the People within 'em might see those who passed along. The place for taking the Air in Coaches is a great unpaved Street, in the Suburbs, which is sprinkled every day with water 
* And therefore called Strada Marina. , as the Voorhout is at the Hague.  
The Ambrosian Library was so named by Cardinal Frederic Borromeo, 
Ph. Vannemachero, and Ch. Torre, affirm, That this Library contains Fourteen thousand Manuscripts; but mention not the number of the printed Books. It was much augmented by the addition of Vincent Pinelli's Library, R. Lassels. Rufinus' Version of Josephus is one of the oldest Manuscripts in this Library. G. Burnet. Fabio Mangoni built it. It contains several Apartments. The great Hall is 75 foot long, and 30 broad. It could not be made larger, because of the Churches and Houses that surround it. Besides the Books and Pictures, 'tis enriched with several Collections of very fair Medals, and with rare and curious Pieces of antique Sculpture and Architecture, with others moulded on the Originals. Boschi wrote a Treatise De Origine & Statu Bibliothecae Ambrosianae C. Torre.  Archbishop of Milan, who founded it, and dedicated it to St. Ambrose. I read in a little Description of this Library printed at Tortona, That it contains twelve thousand Manuscripts, and seventy two thousand printed Volumes; but we must not depend on that Author's Testimony, for it appears plainly to the Eye, that there are not so many: and besides, the Library-keeper told us, that there were not above Forty thousand in all. This Library is kept open two hours every Morning and Afternoon; there is a Fire in it during the Winter, and there are also Seats and Desks, with all the other Conveniencies that are to be found in the Library of St. Victor at Paris.  
They showed us a great Book of Mechanical Draughts, which they told us Leonard de Vinci wrote with his own hand. The Writing is extremely awry, and can hardly be read without a Perspective-glass. There is an Inscription on the Wall, which says, That a certain King of England, whose Name is not mentioned, offered Three thousand Pistols for this Volume.  
Adjoining to this Library there is an Academy for Painting, where we saw many good Pictures. Among the rest, I remember one of Clement the Tenth, which resembles a Print so exactly, that we were all deceived by it.  
The Citadel is a regular Hexagon, well lined, furnished with store of Cannon, and surrounded with a good Ditch and Counterscarps; but the old Walls should be pulled down, with all those Towers, Forts, and other antique Works which are contained in the Citadel, besides a considerable number of Houses; for, if all this useless Rubbish were taken away, the place would be infinitely better. After we had walked round the Ramparts, we entered into a Hall in the Governor's Lodgings, to see a score of Soldiers who were exercising their Postures, and practising Spanish Sarabands against the Solemnity of Corpus-Christi-day, when they were to dance before the Procession.  
The principal Buildings in Milan, without mentioning the Churches and Convents, are, the Palaces of the Governor and Archbishop; the Houses of the Marquis Homodeo, Count Barth. Arese, and Signior T. Marini; the 
* This Structure was founded by Charles Borromeo, and built by Joseph Mela. A double Portico 176 foot and 3 inches long, and 16 foot 10 inches and a half broad, goes round the great square Court on the inside. The first Order is Doric, and the second jonic. Over the great Portal stands Piety, having on her Breast the Sun, who is the Father of Light; and on the other side Wisdom, with swelling Breasts full of Provision for her Children. C. Torre.  Seminary; the Colleges of the Swissers, of Breva, and of the Jesuits; the Townhouse, and the chief Hospital; the great Court of the last-named Structure is a Hundred and twenty paces square, with two rows or stories of Porticoes about the inside, both which are supported on every side by Two and forty Pillars of a kind of Marble found in the neighbouring Alps, every Pillar consisting of a single Piece. The Body of the Edifice is of Brick, moulded and fashioned into several Ornaments of Architecture. The old Hospital is joined to this, and both together make but one.  
The 
† Begun 1489, by Duke Lewis Sforza, called the Moor, and finished by Lewis XII, 1507. Bramante was the Architect of this Structure.  Lazaret or place appointed for the entertainment of those that are sick of Pestilential Distempers, depends on the great Hospital, and is situated about two or three hundred paces from the City. It consists of four Galleries joined in a square, each containing Ninety two Chambers, and surrounded on the inside with a Portico supported by Marble Pillars, every Chamber being twenty foot broad, or somewhat less; 'tis plain, that the length of each Gallery comprehending the thickness of the Walls must amount to about Eighteen hundred Feet. The great Place within is a Meadow washed by several Brooks of running Water; and in the middle of the square is an Altar under a Dome supported by Columns. The Doors of the Chambers are so contrived, that all the sick Persons may see Mass said from their several Beds.  
The Church, which at present bears the name of St. Ambrose, is the same into which that ancient Doctor refused to admit Theodosius. There are Pictures and Sculptures in it, which are the Productions of the most ignorant Ages. They made us also take notice of a Dragon of Brass, that stands on a Marble Column. Donato Bossi thinks it is a Figure of Aesculapius' Serpent: 
Tristan Caleo suspects that it is a Memorial of some extraordinary Event, like the Goose in the Capitol. See the Exercitationes Sacrae of Georg. Maebius, de Aeneo Serpent.  Morigi, Besozo, and some others, say, That this is a Representation of the Serpent that Moses erected in the Wilderness, and produce some Passages of Chronicles that seem to favour their Opinion. Others pretend that it was cast out of the Fragmenta of that Serpent: and the People are firmly persuaded that this is the Serpent of the Wilderness in proper Person, 
TWO Kings 18.4.  and in that belief have recourse to it on certain occasions, as to one of the most effectual Relics. Bossi and Charles Torre declare, That they have been several times Eye-witnesses of the Adoration paid to this Image.  
In the Church of St. Eustorgia they preserve the Tomb that contained the Bodies of the Three Kings, before they were removed to Colen. They pretend that the Odour of Sanctity which remains in this Sepulchre completes the Cure of Diseases, tho' it never undertakes any that are difficult. But you must not imagine that they are destitute of Remedies in such cases, for they have as good madonna's and as powerful Relics at Milan as any are in Italy. At St. Alexander's alone there are a hundred and forty four thousand Martyrs of the Catacombs of St. Sebastian.  
The other Curiosities of this place are Works in Steel, and in Rock-Crystal, which is found not far off in the Alps; they make Looking-glasses of the largest pieces, which rarely amount to a foot square.  
The Proverb says, that He that would do a Kindness to Italy must destroy Milan; which some think alludes to the Trade of Milan, that would be dispersed through the rest of the Country: but others believe this Apophthegm was occasioned by reason that the most 
* This City has been 40 times besieged, and 22 times taken. Du Val.  fatal Wars to Italy have always had their Original in this City.  
We had the Curiosity to go two miles from Milan to the Marquis of Simonetta's House, to hear an Echo that repeats the last Syllable above 
‡ 
Lucretius extols an Echo that answered seven times: 
Sex etiam septem loca vidi reddere voces  
Unam cum jaceres— l. 4.    forty times. We made the experiment in a covered Gallery in one of the wings of this Building, and the Echo answered from the other Wing. The Sound decreases gradually, like the reboundings of an Ivory Bullet.  
In our Journey from Milan to Pavia, which is but fifteen miles distant, we went a little out of the way to see the famous 
† In the Plain of Barco.  Monastery founded by 
‖ The same who founded the Cathedral of Milan. All the Pictures in the Chapel of St. Michael were done by P. Perugini, Raphael's Master. In the Vestry there is a Christ crowned with Thorns, by Passignani, which is much esteemed. The Pictures in the Choir were made by Daniel Crespi.  John Galeas Visconti, first Duke of Milan. The Body of the Church is of a Gothick Architecture, but the Chapels and Altars are not inferior to the richest and finest Pieces in the Churches of Naples. The Cloister is also very fair, and the Parks, Gardens, Rivers, Avenues, and other Ornaments of this House, make it a very charming Solitude. There are at present Fifty eight Monks in it.  

PAVIA.  The poor little City of Pavia has lost its ancient lustre. 'Tis impossible to divine by what remains of it at present that it was once the Metropolis of a Kingdom, and the Residence of twenty Monarches. The Castle is an old neglected Heap, and the Fortifications are in a very mean condition. A Traveller may satisfy his Curiosity by passing through the great Street, the rest of the City being almost desolate.  

Founded by Charlemagne, and re-established by Charles iv Boetius was a Native of Pavia.  As far as we could judge, the University is much decayed as well as the Town. It consists of Five Colleges, among which that of Borromeo is chief remarkable for the beauty of its Building. The Scholars walk through the City in their Gowns, and those of every College have different Robes.  
Over-against the Cathedral, which is an old, low, and dark Structure, and built awry, there is a Figure on Horseback of Brass, which is is thought to be a Statue of Antoninus Pius; 'tis commonly called the Regisol, 
In the Life of Pope Gregory the Second. There is a kind of Mast of a Ship to be seen in the Cathedral, which is thought by the People to be Orlando furiosoes Spear.  tho' for what reason I know not. I find it had the same Name in the time of Platina, who thinks it was brought from Ravenna, when that City was taken and sacked by King Luitprand.  
It was the same King Luitprand who, according to the Tradition, brought the Body of St. Austin from Sardinia to Pavia, and buried i● in St. Peter's Church, which at present belongs to the Augustin Friars; but the place where the Body lies could never be discovered, and the magnificent Tomb of Marble in the Chapel, at the side of the Church, is only an honorary Monument erected by the Monks.  
In a Bookseller's Shop at Pavia, I found by chance the History of that City written by Bernard Saccus, one of its Inhabitants, who, among other things, gives an account of the Translation of St. Augustine's Body; the Story is thus, as I transcribed it out of the Author: In Templo D. Petri à Luitprando edificato, conditum Augustini corpus fuit; & ne facilè resciri posset, ferunt Luitprandum tribus locis effossis, structisque sepulchris, alibi deinde nocte, paucis operi adhibitis, jussisse corpus condi, omnibus sepulchris eâdem nocte, occlusis, ut certâ corporis sede ignoratâ, difficilior in aevum fieret occasio, ejus perquirendi rapiendique. Constructum deinde alio seculo Sacellum Divo Augustino fuit, juxta Templum divi Petri, in quo Sacello, Arca marmorea ac celebris, composita est, Augustini, Sepulchrum repraesentans. 
B. Sac▪ l. 10. c. 3.   
The same Author says, That the Land about Pavia produces naturally very good Asparagus twice every year; and, that the Country People for the most part eat the Roots raw.  
He relates also, That the Po, which at present is five or six miles distant from Pavia, did formerly change its course; and that its ancient Channel is still to be seen about Five hundred paces from the City. This gives light to certain Passages in old Geographers, who place Pavia near that River. Padus, adds that Author, saepe totus ab alveo prosiliens, alium sibi extemplo alveum sine fossoribus eruit. Si ab Apennino aquarum copia irruat, fluctus in adversam ripam torquet; contra verò, si ab Alpium latere, aquarum impetus fiat. Si ex utrâque parte, effertur supra modum.  

The Tesin is so rapid, that in less than three hours, with one Rower, we sailed above Thirty miles, says D. Burnet.  Coming out of Pavia we passed the Tesin on a covered Bridge. This is a very rapid River, and the greatest of all those that fall into the Po. Its Inundations are dreaded by the People of the Country, because its Waters are fatal to the Fields which they overflow. When these Inundations last eight days, which happens but seldom, the coldness of the Water kills the Herbs, and the Land hardly recovers its fertility for some years after. How different are the Waters of this River from those of the Nile.  
Pavia was formerly called Ticinum, from the name of the River that washes its Walls. Saccus relates, That its name was changed when Odoacer, 
In the year 472.  after he had destroyed it, granted an Immunity of five years to the Inhabitants, with permission to rebuild their City: they called it Papia quasi piorum Patria, from the Piety of its Citizens; not, as some vainly imagine, because they received the Christian Religion at that time, for they were Christians long before, but to denote the Love, or (as the word is sometimes used) Piety, which those Patriots expressed for their Country, who went to Ravenna to beg the King's Mercy and Pardon. Me si audieritis, said one of those Deputies after their return, nomen inveniemus quod nostrae pietatis officia in Patriam restituendam, paucis Syllabis posteritati attestabitur; & Ticini nomen aquis restituetur. Papia piorum Patria, etc.  
I shall add only one Observation concerning this City; That two Kings had the Misfortune to be taken Prisoners here: Desiderius by Charlemagne, and Francis the First by Charles the Fifth. I am,  
SIR, Your &c. Pavia, June 12. 1688.   

LETTER XXXII.  
SIR,  
FIfteen Miles from Pavia, we dined at the Town of Voghera, 
Voghera.  and the same day arrived at the little City of Novi, 
Novi.  which is seated at the foot of the Apennine, thirty miles from Genoa, and under the Dominion of that Republic. The way between Novi and Genoa is very mountainous, and we met with nothing worth our Observation on all this Road.  

GENOA the Proud.  You know the City of Genoa is situated at the end of a Gulf, partly on the brow of a Hill which forms a Crescent round the Gulf, 
From the Year 1494 to 1528, the State of Genoa was subject to above twelve kinds of Government.  and partly on a little Plain between the foot of the Hill and the Seashore. The Streets in the general are extremely narrow, and the Houses consist of six or seven Stories in the lower part of the Town; but by degrees, as the ascent rises, the Houses are lower, and built at a greater distance. This situation is certainly very pleasant to the Eye, but in other respects very troublesome and inconvenient, especially for Coaches, which are not much used here: the Ladies are carried in Litters, and the Men of Quality have either Chairs or Calashes, which they guide themselves.  
The Town is surrounded with a double Fortification, which covers it behind, and reaches on both sides to the Shore. The nearest and best of these Fortifications properly encompasses the City, and the second encloses all the rising Grounds that command it.  
My Eyes have often convinced me of the Falsehood of what I had formerly heard, but I never observed a wider or more remarkable difference between the Accounts I received from others, and my own Observation, than with respect to this City. 'Tis confidently reported and generally believed, that Genoa is built of Marble. 
Rubens composed a Treatise of the Palaces, of Genoa.  They who live at a distance from it scarce ever mention it without adding this Observation concerning it, which is grown so common, that 'tis almost turned to a Proverb. But, which is still more surprising, several Persons that have seen it, are so accustomed to that way of speaking, that they cannot forbear relating the same Story, either because they have seen it without considering it attentively, or because they choose rather to leave the World in an Error than to disturb so pleasant a Dream. And perhaps some are willing to take advantage of this general Prejudice, which gives 'em so fair an opportunity to embellish that part of the History of their Voyages.  
But, after all, I can assure you 'tis absolutely false, that Genoa is built of Marble; Brick and Stone, or both mixed together, are the ordinary Materials of its Houses, and they are almost all covered with Plaster.  
'Tis true, there are some Houses in the Strada nu●va that are richly adorned with Marble, and even the Fronts of four or five of 'em are almost wholly built of it, but these are all the Marble Houses in Genoa; and I leave you to judge whether this be a sufficient Reason to pretend that the whole City is built of Marble, or whether it might not be affirmed on better grounds, That London is wholly built of Stone, or Paris of Brick.  
But tho' Genoa is not wholly built of Marble it may justly boast of some very beautiful Structures; for the Houses are extremely large and fair in the five or six Streets that are of a considerable breadth, and in the magnificent Suburb of S. Pietro d'Arena. And besides, Slate and Glass are as common here, as they are rare in most other parts of Italy.  
I have heard so often of the Gardens in the Air, that are to be seen in this City, that I think myself obliged to give you some account of 'em. If the Relations of Travellers were exactly true, and things were called by their own proper Names, those who never saw Genoa would not form such lofty Ideas of these pretended Gardens in the Air, as if they were Machines' of an Opera, or Imitations of the famous Gardens of Semiramis. There is so little even Ground in this City, that, as I intimated before, they are obliged to make the Streets narrow, and the Houses very high, from whence you may reasonably conclude, that there is not much spare room for Gardens. To supply that Defect, several Persons adorn the Balconies of their Houses with Flower-pots, and some perhaps cover 'em with Earth, when the Buildings are all to bear the weight of it; these are the Gardens in the Air that make so great a noise in the World, tho' there are many other things that are not so much as heeded, which in this sense may be said to be in the Air.  
The most beautiful Edifices received no hurt by the French Bombs, which were levelled directly at the Heart of the City, where the Houses were thickest; and 'tis but too apparent they were not thrown there in vain; for notwithstanding all the Reparations that have been made since, there are at present above Five hundred ruinous Houses in one part of the City. And most of the private Sufferers in that general Calamity had the double misfortune to lose all that they had, by losing their Habitations; so that they were not only incapacitated to rebuild 'em, but even were not able to pay the charge of removing the Rubbish. 'Tis plain then, that they who have a mind to see Genoa the Proud, must not look for it here.  
In the Church of Our Lady of the Vineyards they showed us a Bomb which fell there without doing the least execution, and I believe would gladly have told us, that this was an Effect of its Reverence to so sacred a place, if some less respectful Bombs had not thrown down four or five other Churches, and as many Convents.  
During that fatal shower of Fire and Brimstone, the Doge, with thirty Persons more, took shelter in the great Hospital called the Albergo, which being very high and large, not only afforded a safe retreat to a great number of the Inhabitants, but preserved a considerable part of their Goods, for they brought thither all that could be carried. They are at present working on a Third Mole, which will stretch further into the Sea than the other two, and (they hope) secure 'em against the danger of a second Assault.  
The Haven of Genoa is large, and of a convenient depth, but it lies open to the Lubeccio or African Wind, which is almost South West, and is the most dangerous Wind that reigns in in this part of the Mediterranean. So that they were forced to make a little secure Harbour within the Port for their Galleys, of which at present they have only six; to so small a number are the once formidable Navies of Genoa now reduced.  
The Pharos or Watch-Tower is very high, which here, as at Rochel, is called the Lantern Tower. To see the whole City distinctly, it must be viewed from three several places; from the top of this Tower, from the Sea about the distance of a mile, and from the top of its Hill. These three different Prospects are sufficient to give a complete Idea of the Town.  
The Doge of Genoa  
Vol. 2. P. 229.   portrait of the Doge of Genoa 
The Ladies usually appear in Gowns after the French manner; and the ordinary Women wear little Farthingales.  
The Noblemen never wear Swords. They are not tied to any particular sort of Habit, but they are usually clothed in black, and in Cloaks. They style themselves Dukes, Marquesses, Counts, etc. whereas the Noble Venetians, as I told you before, assume none of these Titles.  
We saw all the Members of the Senate assembled in a body, and in their Formalities, at the Procession on Corpus-Christi-Day. The Doge was in a Crimson Gown, with a sort of square Bonnet. Two Battleaxes and a Sword in the Scabbard were carried before him, and a Senator marched on each side of him, in black Gowns of the same fashion with his own.  
The Doge is styled, His Serenity; the Senators, 
The Doge ought to be Fifty years old complete.  Their Excellencies; and the Noblemen, Most Illustrious. 'Tis true, this last Title is not very honourable in Italy, where 'tis usually given to any man that wears a Ribbon in his Cravat, yet the Genoese Noblemen, as well as those of Venice, compose the Great and Sovereign Council, both these States being purely Aristocratical.  
The Doge of Genoa has no more Authority than the Doge of Venice; yet the first is crowned with a Royal Crown of Gold, and a Sceptre is put into his Hand, because of the Kingdom of Corsica, which is actually under the Dominion of that Republic.  
When the two years of the Doge's Administration are come to an end, Deputies are sent to the Palace to tell him, that His Serenity's time is expired, and that His Excellency may retire to his own House.  
To return to our Procession; the Streets were hung with Tapestry, and spread with green Herbs; all the Windows were full of Ladies dressed to the best advantage, and decked with the richest Ornaments they could procure; they had Baskets full of Flowers, which they strewed on the Procession, according to the different Inclinations of their Hearts, sometimes out of Devotion to 
* So they call the Sacrament  the Most Holy, and sometimes out of Civility or Affection to the young Gentlemen of their acquaintance, who followed the Procession: all their Peruques were powdered with 'em, and for every handful of Favours they received, they made low Reverences to their fair Benefactresses.  
The Church of the Annunciata is the finest in Genoa, but notwithstanding all its Beauty and Magnificency, 'tis far inferior to many that I have already described; and therefore I will not trouble you with a particular account of it, I shall only observe that it was built at the charge of one 
† Of the Family Lomellino.  Citizen of Genoa, which is the most remarkable thing that can be said of it.  
I will not lose time in relating the Story of the Crucifix at St. Jerome's, which spoke to St. Bridget; tho' the rare Discourse that passed between 'em might perhaps divert you for some Moment's.  
At St. Mary's of the Castle there is another, 
In the Cathedral there is a great Dish made of one single Emerald, in which, if you will believe the common Tradition, the Paschal Lamb was served up when Christ eat the Passover with his Disciples. Venerable Beda says, the Lamb was brought in a Silver Dish; but Madam St. Bridget thought fit to substitute one of Ivory; and why might not you or I with as much reason venture to say, that it was an Earthen Dish. Du Val thinks this Emerald Dish was one of the Presents which the Queen of Sheba made to Solomon.  which is particularly honoured by Maids, for the following reason. A Gentleman who had for a long time courted a young Lady with a design to deceive her, resolved at last to have recourse to the usual Stratagem of gaining his Mistress by a Promise of Marriage, which he did, says the Story, in a place of the City where this Crucifix stood at that time: I will not undertake to describe all that passed between 'em on this occasion; but the Gentleman refused to fulfil his Promise. The abused Lady entered an Action against him, but could produce no Witnesses to prove her Accusation. The Case was just going to be decided against her, when she remembered that the Promise was made in the presence of a Crucifix, to which she appealed, and begged the Judge with Cries and Tears to go to receive the Testimony of her new Witness. Her Request was granted, and some Persons were deputed to interrogate the Crucifix, which answered only with a Nod; but considering the manner in which the Questions were proposed, that Sign could not be otherwise interpreted than as a confirmation of the poor afflicted Lady's Pretensions: and therefore the Court ordained, that the Marriage should be solemnised the same day. Thus the injured Lady obtained her desire, and to crown her good Fortune, the Gentleman's Heart was touched, he obeyed the Sentence with Joy, and the happy Pair became a memorable Instance of Conjugal Affection.  

* The Ashes of this Saint are kept in the Cathedral, in a Shrine supported by four fine Columns of Porphyry, which were brought from Smyrna Ann. 1098. Gal. Guald. Prior.  St. John Baptist and the Emperor are the two Protectors of this Republic. The Image of the former is stamped on its Coin, which is the fairest in Italy, and besides, of the richest Alloy.  
The Trade of Genoa is very much decayed; it consists particularly in Velvet, Point, Gloves, dry Confections, Anchoveys, and several sorts of Fruits. There are some private Persons very rich, but the Republic is poor. Neither Corn nor Wine are sold in the Markets, for the Government reserves that Trade for its self: There is not a Pint of Wine sold by the Innkeepers, but what is brought from the Cellar of the State; and since they gain nothing by the sale of Liquors, they make the most of their other Commodities. The Bakers are also obliged to fetch their Corn from the public Granaries.  
These are the most material Observations I have made during my short stay in this City. The Canon Ferro has a Cabinet of Curiosities. I am,  
SIR, Your &c. Genoa, June 20, 1688.   

LETTER XXXIII.  
SIR,  
IN our Journey from Genoa to Cazal we were obliged to return by the way we came, to Novi, where we hired a Coach to Turin, and the next day dined at the little City of Alexandria.  
The Art of besieging Towns was hardly known when Frederic Barbarossa's Army lay six months before Alexandria, 
ALEXANDRIA.  without being able to take it. The Fortifications of this place are very mean.  
That Emperor called it Caesarea, but Pope Alexander III. would have it named Alexandria. 'Tis false that ever any Emperors were crowned in this City with a Crown of Straw: and I believe 'tis hard to prove the Truth of another Story, which says, that Frederic in derision called it Alexandria of Straw. However, it retains that name to this very day.  
Cazal is a well fortified City, 
CAZAL  seated on the right Bank of the Po. The old Castle is not useless, but the new Citadel is a very important place. It has six great Royal Bastions, Halfmoons before the Curtains, a broad and deep Ditch full of Water, and an Arsenal furnished with Arms for Ten thousand Men. There were formerly some Irregularities in the Fortifications, but the French have put all things in order. I must not forget to tell you, that they have doubled all the Bastions; for the old Bastions were so large, that there was room enough within 'em to make a second Rampart, which without the least confusion forms a new Bastion in the middle of the former. The Town belongs still to the Duke of Mantua, who receives some inconsiderable Duties from it, and the French Garrison keeps it for him.  
Leaving Cazal, we passed a fourth time over the famous 
* The Po.  Eridanus, and our Coach for a long time after followed the Banks of that River. We passed by the Gate of Trin, a little fortified Town, in that part of Montferrat which belongs to the Duke of Savoy. Verrua is a much stronger place, on a rising Ground, on the right side of the Po  
Eight miles from Cazal we entered into Piedmont, the Land being still level. As we advanced further, we found ourselves engaged among the Mountains, in a large and flat Valley almost entirely surrounded with the highest Alps. Where this Plain is good, nothing can be better, but there are some places in it that do not at all merit that Character.  
Hail is the Scourge of Piedmont. As we passed along we took notice of two or three large spots of Ground, where but two days before it had made a prodigious havoc on the finest Cornfields in the World. The Straw was chopped and driven into the Ground; and even the Walnut-trees, Vines, and other Trees were half broken.  
They reckon but Five and forty miles from Cazal to Turin, but the miles in Piedmont and Montferrat are much larger than the common miles of Lombardy.  
Turin is situated in a Plain, 
TURIN.  on the River Doire, Three hundred paces from the Po. 'Tis a very pleasant Town, all its Avenues are cheerful and delicious; and that which makes us more sensibly charmed with the free and agreeable Humour of the Inhabitants, is our Abhorrence and late Experience of that intolerable Sourness and Unsociableness that reigns over all the rest of Italy, where we conversed more with Statues than Men. With respect to the manner of living, Turin is not inferior to the politest Cities in France: the Language of that Kingdom is as commonly spoken here as the Italian; the People are generally well bred and handsome, and there is not a Court in Europe more sprightly and gay than that of the Duke of Savoy.  
The old part of Turin cannot boast of much Beauty, but the new half is built after a quite different manner. The Streets are broad, and straight as a Line, the Houses large, high, and almost all uniform. There cannot be a finer Street than that which passes through the two open Places, and reaches from the Castle to the new Gate. Both these Places are large, and of a regular Figure; but the new one is encompassed with Houses in exact Symmetry, and a large Portico runs all about it.  

There is the old and new Palace.  The Duke's Palace makes not so fine an appearance on the outside as the Apartments within it are beautiful. The Palace of the Jesuits, and that of the Prince of Carignan, are but just finished, and seem to be very magnificent: I name that of the Jesuits first, because it excels the other.  
Tho' this City was almost doubled under the late Duke, 'tis still of a very indifferent largeness: the same Prince enclosed it with a regular and well-lined Fortification, The Citadel is very strong and handsome, tho' not yet quite finished; 'tis countermined throughout, and has the conveniency of a good Well, where Horses go down and come up without meeting, by a sort of double Stairs without Steps, which wind about so often, that the Descent is very easy.  
The Rows of Oaks on the Ramparts of the Town make a very pleasant Walk, which has also the advantage of a very fine Prospect, especially towards the Rivers; but the greatest Concourse of People is usually about Valentin, a House of Pleasure on the Banks of the Po, about a mile from Turin. The Duke has seven or eight others, all well furnished, and kept in good order.  
I must not forget to give you some account of the 
* Of Guarini's Architecture.  Chapel that is almost finished at the Cathedral, to the honour of the Holy Handkerchief. 'Tis certainly very magnificent; but, instead of telling you as some have done, that it excels the Chapel of St. Laurence at Florence, I can assure you 'tis not at all comparable to that noble Structure. If you have not forgot the Description of that Florentin Chapel in one of my former Letters, you may easily make the parallel between that and this of Turin: after I have told you that they are both of almost the same figure, but that the last is less than the former, and will be only embellished with black Marble.  
The 
* Mr. Reiskius has written a Dissertation de Imaginibus Christi, where you may find many curious Remarks on this Relic: He demonstrates, that neither this nor several others were ever heard of, till Venerable Beda published his vain Imaginations in his Treatise de locis Sanctis. This Reverend English Priest died about the middle of the Eighth Age.  pretended Holy Handkerchief is the most important and valued Relic in Turin, as you may judge by the honour that is shown to it. Tho' this Relic ought to be the only one of its kind in the World, 'tis reproduced or multiplied in five or six several places at the least, to mention only such as I know. There are, I think, two of 'em at Rome, at St. Peter's and St. John de Lateran, one at Cadoin in Perigort, one at Besancon, one at Compeigne, one at Milan, and another at Aix la Chapelle. I can't imagine how the Controversy between these Competitors can be decided, since they all produce Papal Bulls to confirm their Titles; but the Handkerchief of Cadoin seems to have the advantage over the rest, as being authorised by fourteen Bulls, whereas that of Turin can only show four.  
Since we are just going to take leave of Italy, I shall take this occasion to entertain you with some Observations which I either forgot or had not opportunity to insert in my former Letters. Our short stay in the places through which we passed would not suffer us to spend much time in making acquaintance with the People of the Country, and consequently we could not be very particularly informed of their Customs: neither do I intent to enter on that Subject, but only to communicate some Remarks to you without any other order, than as they shall offer themselves to my Memory.  
I said nothing of the Princes or Courts either in Germany or Italy, because I thought it not convenient to describe 'em with all that Sincerity and Freedom which I must necessarily have used to acquaint you with their true Characters. When a Prince is the Subject of a Discourse, 'tis almost impossible to avoid Flattery and Lies, and therefore I chose rather to be silent, than to hazard the being guilty of either. I shall only tell you, that Mr. B. was every where received with all the Honour and Respect that are due to his Personal Merit and High Birth; and these Civilities were sometimes redoubled, by reason of the Acquaintance and Friendship between some of those Sovereigns and his Grandfather the Duke of Ormond, and the Knowledge they had of his Father the late Earl of Ossory, and several other Persons of that illustrious Family.  
The Duke of Modena is of great stature, handsome, and resembles the Queen his Sister considerably, tho' he is of a brown Complexion. He is Master of several Qualifications that are able at once to inspire both Love and Respect. He discoursed with me almost an hour concerning some particular Observations we had made in our Travels, and especially concerning England.  
I could not give you an account of those Academies of the Curious, that are established in almost all the Towns of Italy, because I had not time to inquire particularly about 'em; but if I may give credit to the Information I received from several Persons, they are certainly very inconsiderable Societies. The affected oddness of their Titles is very singular, for they are not much unlike to the Names which the Grooms in France give to their managed Horses; I shall only mention a dozen of 'em: Thus the Academists of Genoa call themselves 
(a) Addormentati.  Drowsy; those of Naples, 
(b) Ardenti.  Burning; those of Alexandria 
(c) Immobili.  ; those of Rome 
(d) Fantastici & Humoristi.  Fantastical or Humorous; those of Viterbo 
(e) Ostinati.  Obstinate; those of Sienna 
(f) Intronatis.  Benumbed or Sottish. At Perusa they style themselves 
(g) Insensati.  Mad; at Parma 
(h) Innominati.  Nameless; at Bologna 
(i) Otiosi.  Idle; at Milan 
(k) Nascosti.  Concealed; at Ancona 
(l) Caliginati.  Obscure or Confused; at Mantua 
(m) Invaghiti.  Amorous; at Rimini 
(n) Adagiati.  Easie or Pliable; and at Macerata 
(o) Catenati.  Chained. I perceive I have skip'd from place to place, without observing any order, but that is not material.  
We were treated with a great deal of Civility and Kindness by the Italians, as far as we could judge by outward appearances: but, to deal plainly, their Complaisance is a mixture of Flattery and Design. We found also by experience, that the People of this Nation are very sober. The Inns in the little Towns, especially on certain Roads, are very ill furnished with Provisions. The first Course, which by way of excellence they call the Antipasto, is a Plate of Gizerns, Ends of Wings, and Birds Feet boiled with Salt and Pepper, and mixed with Whites of Eggs; after which course, come two or three small Dishes one after another of different Ragou's. Between Rome and Naples the Traveller is sometimes regaled with Buffalo's and Crows, and he's a happy man that can meet with such Dainties: the Buffalo's Flesh is black, stinking, and hard; there are none but the most beggarly Jews at Rome who eat it, and the Beast must be hunted, otherwise 'tis impossible to chew its Flesh.  
They have all the various kinds of Wine in Italy, but the best sorts are least abundant: about Rome there is the Wine of Gensana, Albano, and castle Gandolfo, in all which places the Soil is the same. The Greek Wine of Naples, and the Lacryma Christi are strong, but the small Asprino bianco, and the Chiarello piccante seemed more agreeable to our taste, tho' they are much less esteemed. At Florence and Montefiascone the richest Wines are pleasant, and have no more Fire than what is convenient for ordinary Drink, but there is no great quantity of 'em; the Great Duke's delicate Moscadello grows in a little Vineyard, and is consecrated to his own use, or to be sent as Presents, but never dispersed through the Country: there are also some good sorts of Wine near Verona, and in the State of Genoa.  
About Loretto the Casks are made short and broad like a Dutch Cheese; but towards Pavia their length amounts to seven times their diameter.  
Towards Parma and Placenza, 
Leand. Alberti says, he saw at Parma four Cheeses which weighed Five hundred pounds each.  where there are excellent Pastures, they make Cheese of all their Milk. Butter is scarce in Italy, instead of which they use Oil in all their Ragou's and Fricasies; but tho' they draw it from their own Olive Trees, 'tis oftentimes worse than in those Countries where none of these Trees grow; for the Fruit that will yield the best price and keep longest is always transported.  
We have not seen the chief Season for Fruit in this Country. At Venice, where we stayed two months in the Winter, we had white Grapes of Bologna very firm, and of a most delicious taste. At Naples we eat Winter-Melons; and at Genoa we were entertained with all sorts of small red Fruits, and I never saw so good and large Cherries as there. The Country about the River of Genoa is peculiarly excellent for Fruit.  
It may be truly said of Genoa, that its Hills are without Wood; but all the rest of the Proverb is false, Men without Faith, Ladies without Shame, and a Sea without Fishes. There are both Rogues and Honest men every where, and we found by Experience that there are very good Fishes in the Sea of Genoa. I took pleasure two or three times to go in the morning to see the Fishing at Naples, where I observed several sorts of Fishes that I had never seen in other places. The Gulf of Cajeta abounds with Sturgeon, some of which are also found in the Tiber.  
In all our Travels through Italy we never saw either a Hare or Partridge in the Fields; and I might also add, that we saw as few in the Inns. 'Tis very strange, in my opinion, that these Animals are not more plentiful, since the Country is not wholly destitute of 'em. My Reasons are these: In the first place, there are large extents of Ground in Italy, which are almost uninhabited, and consequently aught to abound with Game, proportionably to the like places in the New World. And, secondly, it might be reasonably supposed that the Game should be more plentiful here than in other places, because the Lords of those Grounds are never wont to reside on 'em, and yet are no less jealous of their Rights than the Gentlemen of other Countries.  
In England and France there are many Persons of Quality who pass their time in the Country; but that is not the Custom in Italy, where all Persons of Note live in the Cities, out of which there are neither Castles nor great Houses to be seen, which belong to private Persons, or at least they are very rare, especially if we compare this Country with France, for I am not so well acquainted with England,  
To return to our Game; it must be acknowledged, that Quails are not so great Rarities here as Partridges, for when the Spring approaches they come in Flocks from Afric, and cover the whole Country. These poor little Creatures are so tired with their long Voyage, that they throw themselves into Ships, and wheresoever they can find a place to repose themselves. They may be caught in heaps without the least trouble, but since they are extremely lean, those who take 'em usually feed 'em for some time before they eat 'em. I believe 'tis uncertain whether these Birds fly over the Sea, or whether they do not sometimes swim to take breath: 'tis indeed hard to conceive that the Quail which has not a strong Wing, and flies heavily, should be able to continue its flight so long. But, on the other side, I'm inclined to believe that the Water would so moisten and drench its Feathers, that it could never spread its Wings again. And, besides its leanness and weariness, the Dangers to which it exposes its self, and its eagerness to find a resting place, are, in my opinion, convincing Arguments that it flies all the way without intermission.  
I saw but one Scorpion in Italy, and I could not learn that these Animals are very mischievous in this Country. There are several ways to guard against 'em; but I never saw any of those hanging Beds that are usually talked of. The People about Verona make use of Iron Bedsteads, which they place at some distance from the Walls, that those Infects may neither breed in 'em nor be able to come up on the Beds; and the Feet of the Bedsteads are filled and polished, partly for the same reason. If the Animal its self can be caught, and bruised on the part which it stung, 'tis a certain Remedy; and there are also Salts and Oils extracted out of it, which produce the same effect. But after all, the stinging of Scorpions is not mortal in Italy; and besides, such Instances happen so very rarely, that they who are desirous to travel into Italy ought not to be discouraged by 'em.  

The Tarantula had its Name from the Territory of Tarentum, where there is abundance of those Animals. See the Treatise which Sanguerdius wrote concerning 'em.  There are two sorts of Animals to whom the Italians give the name of Tarantula; one is a sort of Lizard, whose Biting is reputed mortal, 'tis found especially about Fondi, Cajeta, and Capoa; but this is not that which other Nations call the Tarantula: the true Tarantula is a Spider, and lives in the Fields. 'Tis said, there are many of 'em in Abruzzo and Calabria, and they are also found in some parts of Tuscany. They that are stung by this Creature make a thousand different Gestures in a moment: they weep, dance, vomit, tremble, laugh, grow pale, cry, swoon away, and after few days of torment, expire, if they be not assisted in time: they find some Relief from Sweeting and Antidotes, but Music is the great and only Remedy. A learned Gentleman of unquestioned credit told me at Rome, that he had been twice a Witness both of the Disease and of the Cure: they are both attended with circumstances that seem very strange, 
Alex. ab Alexandr. assures us, that he was an Eye-witness of the same; and relates several curious Instances on this occasion. Dier. Geneal. l. 2. c 17.  but the Matter of Fact is well attested and undeniable. I think I could produce natural and easy Reasons to explain this Effect of Music, but, without engaging myself in a Dissertation that would carry me too far, I shall content myself with relating some other Instances of the same kind, which may satisfy any ingenious person. Every one knows the infallible efficacy of David's Harp to restore Saul to the use of his Reason. 
1 Sam. 16.23.  I remember Lewis Goyon, in his Lessons, has a Story of a Lady of his acquaintance, 
Albert. Krantsius writes, that Henry IV King of Denmark hearing that a certain Musician boasted that he could either vex or please those who heard his Music, and even lay 'em asleep, or put 'em into a fury, was desirous to try the Experiment in his own Person; which succeeded so effectually, that the King in the height of his Fury killed several of his Courtiers with his Fists. Theophrastus and A. Gellius affirm, That Music charms and assuages the Pains of the Gout.  who lived a hundred and six years without ever using any other Remedy than Music, for which purpose she allowed a Salary to a certain Player on Instruments, whom she called her Physician. And I might add, that I was particularly acquainted with a Gentleman very much subject to the Gout, who infallibly received Ease, and even sometimes was wholly freed from his Pains by a loud noise. He used to make all his Servants come into his Chamber, and beat with all their force upon the Table and Floor, and the noise they made, in conjunction with the sound of a Base-Viol, was his sovereign Remedy.  
Highway Robbers are no more dangerous in this Country than Scorpions or Tarantula's; for there have not been any Banditi at Rome since the Pontificat of Sixtus V, and I think I told you, that the Marquis del Carpio has extirpated 'em out of Naples. I do not remember that ever any person was put to death in all the places through which we travelled, during the time we stayed in 'em. There is not a City perhaps in the whole World where Executions are so rare as at Venice; the Hangman has a very poor Trade on't. They who are under the Patronage of a Nobleman, which is a thing very easily obtained, may rob and cut Throats as often as they please, only they must take care never to commit a Villainy in a public place, or that may make too great a noise.  
At our Entry into most Cities our Pistols were taken from us, but we always found 'em at the other Gate at our departure. This is a considerable Circumstance, for at the end of the Voyage the Charge amounts to as much as the Pistols are worth. 'Tis not lawful to wear Swords either at Genoa or Lucca, but that Privilege is readily granted to Strangers when they desire it. The Bayonet is prohibited in Cities; but in the Country every one may wear what Arms he pleases, and even they who travel on Horseback oftentimes carry Fusees. The Stilettoes of Milan are famous for the genteel Stab, and they do their Work effectually.  
Love and Jealousy are the two Furies that shed most Blood in Italy. The Italians are said to be Jealous without any reason, and the least suspicion puts 'em into a Fit of Rage.  
Not only at Venice, as I intimated before, but every where else, the Girls are sent to Nunneries in their Infancy, and they are usually married without seeing their future Husbands; only the Girls of the lowest rank are suffered to remain with their Parents; and 'tis not without much difficulty that they are able to find Yoke-fellows. I am not so well acquainted with the Customs of other places, but at Rome there are several Funds established, either to marry poor Maids, or to confine 'em for ever to a Convent. These Charities are distributed with almost the same Ceremonies that are observed in the Minerva, which I described in one of my former Letters.  
I observed in the Churches at Rome, that in Lent the Women are shut up in a place under the Pulpit, enclosed with Rails six foot high.  
There are several Trees and Plants in Italy, which grow neither in England nor (for the most part) in France, unless perhaps in the Southern parts of it. 
The greatest Palmtree in Rome is in the Cloister of St. Peter ad Vincula.  The Palmtree is a Stranger in Italy, and rarely bears Fruit there. In the Garden of Simples at Pisa there is a male and female Palmtree planted together, agreeably to the ancient Error of those who thought such a Marriage was necessary to make those Trees fruitful. But this is a mere Fable; for I observed a Palm tree alone full of Dates, at the Villa Mellena, on Monte-Mario.  
We went to the Pope's Chapel on Palm Sunday, where all the Cardinals were assembled, and he who officiated for the Pope presented a Palm-branch to every one of the rest; these Branches were almost five foot long, and the Leaves were woven together into Knots of several Figures. We saw that which was sent to the Pope: all the Prelates and other ecclesiastics had also Branches, which were either greater or smaller, according to the Dignity of those who bore 'em. The Laics use only Olive-branches.  
I have already told you, 
In M. Badoueri's Garden at Verona there are Cypress-trees a hundred foot high, and two hundred years old. The Citrons of Florence, called Cedrats, are the most excellent of all these kinds of Fruit. Silkworms were brought to Europe from Japan and China.  that we saw several Trees growing in this Country which I had not observed so commonly any where else; I shall now proceed to name some of 'em besides the Palmtree, such as the great Maple, the Cork tree, the Jujub tree, Carob tree, Olive-tree, Myrtle, Pomegranate tree, the Caper shrub, Scarlet-Oak, Cypress, Sena, Lentisk or Mastic-tree, the great Indian Figtree, the Oak that bears Galls, the Shrubs that bear Cotton and Fistic-nuts, and several sorts of Orange and Citron-trees. The Ways are almost every where bordered with White Mulberry-trees, for the nourishment of Silkworms.  
Those who love Simples will find enough to gratify their Curiosity on the Appennin Mountains between Loretto and Rome, and every where in the Alps; but they must have more leisure than we had.  
I gathered some Sponges on the Seaside towards Terracina, of which two were in a manner rooted on very hard Flints, the rest lay lose on the Shore.  
These Sponges put me in mind of Pumice-Stones; and I must not forget to tell you, that I spent some time to no purpose in searching for these Stones on Mount Vesuvius, tho' 'tis generally said to be full of 'em. This must certainly be a Mistake: there are indeed many porous and calcined Stones on that Mountain, which resemble Pumice-stones, but after I had considered 'em attentively, I soon perceived the difference. I have not any certain knowledge of the formation of Pumice-stones, or of the places where they are found, but I believe they are natural Productions.  
The Mountains of Italy, and particularly the Appennin Hills, are well stored with Metals, Mineral Waters, Crystal, Alabaster, a kind of Agat, and several sorts of Marble, but the Marble of the Archipelago has brighter colours. The White Marble of Carrara is one of the finest sorts in Italy, and a great deal of it is transported to France.  
The Winter has been very sharp and long, almost all the Oranges and Citrons were frozen, and the Ground under the Trees was covered with 'em in the abovementioned places, where those Fruits are most common.  
I observed that they take a great deal of care at Rome to preserve themselves from the Inconveniences occasioned by the Heats, which are usually very troublesome in that place. The great Lords have low Apartments, where the Sun never appears, which are paved with Marble, and furnished with Fountains and Water-spouts; and besides, the Doors and Windows are so contrived, that they are never without a cool Brize. The Beds are encompassed at some distance with a Circlet of Gawze or Tiffany, which is joined close to the Board's of the Floor and Ceiling above and below, and hinders 'em from being tormented with Gnats.  
'Tis also the Custom to sleep two hours immediately after Dinner, but they never lie down; for they have a sort of folding Chairs which are usually garnished with Leather, and have Backs that rise and fall with a Spring.  
The use of Vmbrello's is common every where.  
The Serain or Evening Dew in Campagna di Roma is esteemed mortal, during three or four months in the Summer, and great care is taken to avoid it. Travellers double their pace to arrive at Rome in time, or stay at the distance of eighteen or twenty miles from it.  
I found the following Verses over the Gate of a House at Rome; they contain the Rules that ought to be observed for the preservation of Health in that City.  
Enecat insolitos residentes pessimus Aer  
Romanus; solitos non bene gratus habet.  
Sospes ut hic vivas, lux septima det 
* Mark 2.17.  Medicinam;  
Absit odor foedus; sit modicusque labour.  
Pelle Famem & Frigus; fructus femurque relinque;  
Nec placeat gelido fonte levare sitim.  
That is, The Roman Air is fatal to Strangers, and troublesome even to the Natives. If you would live securely here, observe the following Rules; Take Physic every seventh day, avoid stinking Smells, use moderate Exercise, Fence yourself against Cold and Heat, abstain from Fruit and Women, and quench not your Thirst with cold Water.  
You may observe by the buy, that the Author chose rather to run the hazard of a false quantity, than to lose the Jingle of his four Fs. He might have said Venerem instead of Femur, the first Syllable of which is short, Et corpus quaerens femorum, etc. Mart.  
I have not given you an account of the Antiquity of several Cities. I confess, Inquiries of that nature are very curious, but besides that they require a great deal of time and labour, and have been prosecuted already by very able Pens: I find that these Controversies are usually mere Questions concerning Names of Places, for in many of these Cities there are not the least Remainders or visible Marks of their ancient Foundations; and they have been subject to the same Alterations which the Vessel of the Argonauts underwent of old. To conclude, the sight of the Places might perhaps raise a Traveller's Curiosity; but that wears off by degrees when they are only the Objects of his Imagination.  
I must tell you, now I think on't, that in all Italy we observed but one Windmill, or rather the Ruins of one at Leghorn.  
They use no Tin-Vessels in this Country, because of the scarcity of that Metal. All their Vessels are made of Earth leaded, or of _____. We have seen _____ made in several places, but there is none that resembles Porcelain so exactly as that of Delft.  
Whereas we place the beginning of the natural Day immediately after Midnight, 
The Babylonians, began their natural Day at Sunrising, and the Jews at Sunsetting, as the Italians do at present. The Inhabitants of the Province of Umbria, with Ptolemy, and some others in former times, reckoned the beginning of the Day at Noon, and the Egyptians at Midnight, as we do. The ancient Romans did also begin the Day at Midnight, but their Hours were unequal.  the Italians make it begin after Sunsetting, and their Clocks strike always Four and twenty hours from one Sunsetting to another: you may easily perceive that according to this computation, the Hour of Noon varies daily; for when the Sun sets at Four a-clock according to our calculation, they reckon One when we count Five, and consequently the next day 'tis Noon at Twenty hours. And in like manner, when the Sun sets at Eight on our Dial's, 'tis One a-clock with them, when we reckon Nine, and 'tis just Noon at sixteen hours. Nevertheless, with respect to the artificial Day between Sunrising and Sunsetting, they use the words Yesterday and To morrow, as we do.  
I cannot forbear acquainting you that we left Rome without having seen the Pope; there were doubtless some Reasons that would not permit him to appear in public, and there were others that hindered us from paying him a Visit.  
I shall conclude this Letter with telling you, that we bought some modern Medals at Rome, from the famous Hameranus, who is reputed to excel in that sort of Workmanship. Of all the Medals we saw of Queen Christina, this, in my opinion, is one of the most Heroical and most worthy of that great Princess: Her Dominions are on the Reverse with the whole Hemisphere, and this Motto, Ne mi bisogna, ne mi basta; I want nothing, and yet I have not enough. Alexander the Great could use the last part of this Motto, but instead of reigning over himself, his Ambition made him desire more Worlds.  
I shall only add an Inscription, which one of my Friends transcribed just now from the Pedestal of a Statue of Justice in the Convent of the Jesuits.  
Quae Dea? Sacra Themis. Quae Patria? Regna Tonantis.  
Qualis Origo? Fuit Sanctus uterque Parens.  
Cur Frontem Facies aperit formosa severam?  
Nescio corrumpi, non amo Blanditias.  
Aurium aperta tibi cur altera, & altera clausa est?  
Una patet justis, altera surda malis.  
Cur Gladium tua Dextra gerit? cur laeva Bilancem?  
Ponderat haec causas, percutit illa Reos.  
Cur sola incedis? Quia copia rara Bonorum:  
Haec referunt paucos saecula Fabricios.  
Paupere cur cultu? Semper Justissimus esse  
Qui cupit, hic magnas vix cumulabit opes.  
What Goddess art thou? I am Sacred Justice.  
What happy Region boasts thy presence? Heaven.  
Whose Offspring art thou? I'm of holy Race.  
What sullen Glooms hang o'er thy lovely Face?  
I cannot fawn nor bribe, nor will be bribed.  
Why hast thou one Ear shut, and t'other open?  
This to the Good, that to th' Unjust I turn.  
What mean thy brandished Sword and well-poised Balance?  
That strikes the Guilty, this gives Righteous Judgement.  
Why standest thou thus alone? All Men avoid me.  
Why in so Poor a Garb? Few Just are Rich.  
I am, SIR, Your &c. Turin, June 29. 1688.   

LETTER XXXIV.  
SIR,  

Veillana.  WE lay at Veillana the first night after our departure from Turin, next morning we passed by the Gate of Susa, 
SUSA.  a little City, seated among the Mountains, by which 'tis commanded almost on every side, and dined at Novalesa, 
Novalesa. Mount Cenis.  at the foot of Mount Cenis.  
This is the highest Mountain of the Alps, over which there is a Passage; but you must not conclude from thence that it is another Caucasus or Tenerif; neither must you fancy it to be a single Hill, or that the Way lies over the top of it. For when a Traveller comes to the highest part of the Passage, he finds himself in a Plain, or a new Valley, with respect to the lofty Mountains that surround it.  
At Novalesa we took Mules to ascend the Hill. The Way is pretty broad, and free from Precipices, but uneven and full of Stones. On the highest accessible part of it there is a Cross that divides Piedmont from Savoy, and consequently is one of the Boundaries of Italy. In the middle of the Plain there is a Lake of so great a depth, that, if we may believe the common Report, its Bottom could never be reached by sounding; it is a large mile in compass, and sends forth a great Brook, which falls into the little Doire near Susa.  
The Snow was almost all melted on the Hill; 'tis true, the highest tops of the Mountain on both sides were covered with it, but there were only some Heaps left here and there in the passage. The tumbling of the Snow makes the passage dangerous in some places, and in some Seasons of the Year, otherwise there is no danger at all in it.  
The side of the Hill towards Savoy is much rougher than the other, and Travellers are usually carried this part of the way by Men, tho' they might pass it on Horseback, as Charlemain's Army did heretofore. They made us sit down in ordinary Chairs, to which they had fastened Arms like the Shafts of a Litter. We were each of us attended by four Men, two who bore the Chair, and two more to relieve their Fellows.  
At the foot of the Hill we passed the little River Arch, on a Bridge of Wood, to the Village of Lasneburg.  
I have almost nothing to relate concerning Savoy. The Country is generally mountainous, and we found hardly any thing remarkable in that part of it through which we passed.  
Chambery, the Metropolis of the Duchy, 
CHAMBERY.  formerly the Residence of the Dukes, and now the Seat of a Parliament, is a very small and unfortified City, seated at the foot of the Mountains near the Confluence of the Lessa and Orbana, neither of which is navigable. We were told, that its Inhabitants are very civil and the Ladies handsome.  

S. JOHN DE MAURIENNE.  St. John de Maurienne is situated in a pleasant Valley of the same name. We passed by within two hundred paces of the City, without entering into it, being credibly informed that it was not worth the while to go so far out of our way to see it.  

MONTMELIAN.  Neither did we stop at Montmelian, which is a little City on the right Bank of the Isera, defended by a Citadel indifferently strong.  

AIX.  Aix is much frequented by reason of its Baths. I know not whether you have observed that the French Name of those Towns that are called Aix is derived sometimes from Aqua, and sometimes from Augusta: Aqua Sextiae, Aix in Provence; Aquisgranum, Aix la Chapelle; Augusta Alorum, Ais or Auches in Annagnac.  
About Annecy we found the whole Country in a general Consternation for fear of the Vaudois; there was a Report, That above Two thousand of these poor Exiles were entered into Savoy, towards Evian, and had already burnt five or six Villages: but there was not the least Ground for such an Alarm.  
The Duchy of Savoy is separated from the Territory of Geneva by the River Arve, over which there is a Bridge of Wood that leads almost to the Gates of Geneva. The Arve is a great Torrent, which falls from the Mountains, and always brings some Gold-dust along with it, but it happens very rarely that a Man is able to refine so much of it in a day, as he might earn at some other Work; and therefore this Gold is almost wholly neglected.  
I will not undertake to give you an account of the Antiquity, Government, 
GENEVA.  or History of Geneva, of which we have had so many Descriptions. I shall content myself with giving you a general Idea of this City, to which (since I had occasion formerly to be pretty well acquainted with it) I shall add some particular Observations.  
The Rhone, at its coming out of the Lake, forms a little Island. On the right Bank of the River, or rather toward its right Channel, the Land is low and even, but on the other side there is a Hillock that rises insensibly. The principal part of the City is seated on this Hillock, the rest of it is in the Island, and beyond the Rhone; and the whole is encompassed with a Fortification.  
The Republic of Geneva is in League with the Swissers, 
The Republic of Geneva entered into a perpetual League with that of Bern, An. 1536, which has been frequently renewed since. J. Simler.  particularly with the Cantons of Zurich and Bern, and in this their great Strength consists. Their Ramparts may preserve 'em from a sudden Surprisal, and might perhaps protect 'em against all the Force of Savoy. But tho' these Fortifications are not contemptible, they could not long resist a more potent Enemy, if the State had nothing else to depend on.  
They have good store of Cannon, and a well-furnished Arsenal, where they preserve the famous Ladders that were made use of by the Savoyards 
* In the year 1602.  in the Scalado of which you have doubtless read an account. In the same place they keep the Petard that was designed to burst open the new Gate. These are two lasting Monuments of their Deliverance, in memory of which they still continue to solemnize a 
* Decemb. 12/22.  Festival, with Thanksgiving, and extraordinary Sermons suitable to the occasion, and also with little Feasts, or rather with joining the Meals of several Families, according to the various Ties of Relation and Friendship, by which they are united: They never part without singing a Song that was made about the time of that Action, of which it comprehends the principal Circumstances, and is now become an essential part of the public rejoicing.  
The Republic keeps some Galleys on its Lake, and there are also others belonging to the Duke of Savoy and the Swissers. I say its Lake, for the Lake was given to the City by its Masters when it was a Roman Colony, and the common way of Expression at present seems to confirm that Donation.  
The Duke of Savoy keeps a 
† Belle-rive.  Fort on the Bank of the Lake, at the distance of a large league from Geneva, contrary to the Treaty of St. Julian, in which, among several other Articles, it was concluded and ratified, That the Duke of Savoy should neither draw any Forces together, nor make Fortifications, nor keep a Garrison within four leagues of Geneva.  
The Opinion of some ancient Authors, that the Rhone passes through the Lake without mingling with its Water, is not only fabulous, but absurd and impossible, considering the length and crooked figure of the Lake. C. Frey 
* After Polybus. Tarcagno is guilty of the same Mistake; and a thousand other Authors besides, who borrowed it from that ancient Historian.  maintains the same Error in his Admiranda Galliarum Rhodanus in Lacum Lemanum influit, & impermixtis aquis & aquarum colore, ex eo effluit. But my Eyes have often convinced me of the Falsehood of this Assertion.  
The Water of this Lake is extremely pure and limpid; it affords several kinds of excellent Fishes, but its Trout are most famous: 

The pound of Geneva contains Eighteen Ounces.  
The Lake is well stocked with excellent Fish, but their numbers do sensibly decrease, and one sort is quite lost, it is not only to be ascribed to the ravenousness of the Pikes that abound in it, but to another sort of Fish, that they call Moutails, which were never taken in the Lake till within these six years last passed; they are in the Lake of Neufchastel, and some other Lakes of Switzerland, and 'tis likely that by some conucyance under ground they may have come into Channels that fall into this Lake. G. Burnet.   I have seen several of 'em that weighed Fifty pounds each, and I know there have been some found bigger than these by a third part. These Fishes are seldom found so big in other places; but this is not a thing without Example, as some imagine. In one of the Halls of the Arsenal at Munick I saw a Figure of a Trout that was taken out of a little Lake in that Country, and weighed Seventy three pounds.  
Perhaps an account of the usual way of catching Trout at Geneva will not be unpleasant to you. You must know, that at a certain time of the year that Fish descends from the Lake to the Rhone, and at other times returns back to the Lake: now, to take advantage of these Comings and Go, which constantly happen at the usual times, they have planted Piles cross the River, where it comes out of the Lake, at such a distance, that the great Fishes, whether ascending or descending, cannot pass through 'em, unless at certain open places which are the Mouths of great Weels of Wire, where they remain till they are taken out. This Fishery is let out to Farmers by the State, and makes a part of its Revenue. The Piles are thus disposed:  
They kill great store of Fowls on the Lake in the Winter. It was frozen in the year 1572. and sometimes it rages like a little Sea.  
Geneva is neither large nor very fine; yet it may be justly called a very lovely Town. 'Tis impossible for a Stranger that has stayed some time in it to leave it without reluctancy. It has the advantage of pleasant Walks; and the Conversation of the Inhabitants is very familiar and easy. The common People are clownish, but honest; and the Persons of note are extremely kind, civil and ingenious.  
Their Academy is furnished with able Professors, and they have also several learned Ministers. I know not whether you have heard that Mr. Chouët is advanced from his Profession of Philosophy to the Office of a Counsellor; the public Advantage makes amends for the loss of others by his removal. Mr. Mestrézat is so old and infirm, that the Theological Auditory is in a manner already deprived of that excellent Person; but Mr. Tronchin is still one of its great Luminaries; and Mr. Picctet supplies with a great deal of Success the place of his Uncle the famous Mr. Tu●retin.  
I cannot forbear finding fault with the People of Geneva, for allowing their Ministers inconsiderable Pensions, and yet making 'em work too hard. There are in each Church two Ministers called Semainiers, who both preach six or seven times following, from week to week, relieving one another. Suppose a Preacher to be one of the ablest and most diligent men in the World, yet it must be acknowledged, that Leisure is always a great Help for making a good Sermon. However, these Ministers preach in a very edifying manner. Mr. du Four, and Mr. 
* Since the first Edition of this Book Mr. Calendrin is made Professor of Divinity, in Mr. Mestrezat's place.  Calendrin, the two indefatigable Ministers of the 
† St. Peter's Church.  principal Church, have long undergone the toil of so rigorous a Task, and continue still to perform the Duties or their Office with a general Approbation.  
The late Revolution in France has lessened the number of Students of Divinity; but to make amends, since all those Exercises are taught here that young Gentlemen are wont to learn, there are many Protestants in Germany and elsewhere, who, for the sake of Religion, choose rather to go to Geneva than France.  
The poor Vaudois, who were brought hither in a manner half dead, were received by the Inhabitants with all imaginable marks of Compassion and Charity; and the French Refugiés were also very kindly treated by 'em.  
'Tis very remarkable, that before the Reformation the Citizens of Geneva, as if they had foreseen the Day of Grace that was reserved for 'em, accompanied their Arms with this Devise, Post tenebras spero lucem; 
Ephes 5.8. Rom. 11.13.  I expect or hope for Light after Darkness. But after the pure Light of the Gospel shone upon 'em with unclouded lustre, they made some alteration in their Motto, instead of Post tenebras spero lucem substituting Post tenebras Lux, Light succeeded Darkness.  
Tho' the Purity of their Manners is not perhaps perfectly agreeable to that of their Doctrine, yet if we compare Geneva, not to some abominable Towns in Italy, but to many others that are not reputed worse than the rest of the World, 
Anagram. Respublica Genevensis. Gens sub Coelis vere pia.  this City will appear to be the Seat of Sobriety and Moderation. There are vicious Persons here as well as in other places; but Debauchery is not upon the Throne. The Pastors and Consistories labour earnestly to suppress it, and the Magistrates assist their pious Endeavours, by publishing Laws against Luxury in Clothes, and severe Orders against Licentiousness. Formerly they punished Adultery with Hanging and Drowning, as they still do in some parts of Switzerland.  
There are several rare Books and Manuscripts in the public Library, and among others, a very old Manuscript Bible of St. Jerom's Translation.  
In St. Peter's Church they show the Tomb of Henry TWO, Duke of Rohan. I observed also the Sepulchre of the Great d'Aubigne, Grandfather of the Marchioness of Maintenon, in the Cloister at the side of the Church. Calvin was buried in the Churchyard of Plainpalais, without either Tomb or Epitaph.  
I must not forget to tell you, that there is a Church for Germans, and another for Italians in this City; and there was also an English Church formerly. The most considerable Italian Families I know, besides those mentioned in my Letter from Lucca, are those called Gallatin, Sartoris, Puerari, Leger, Minutoli, Stoppa, Diodati, Offredi, Cerduini, and 
* Rubbati, Franconi, Malcontent, Butini, Bartolone, Carnelli, Servini, Mirollio, Lambercier, Pelissari, Martini, etc.  I think there are eight or ten more.  
The 
† If there is any credit to be given to the little Book called Scaligerana; the Savoyard Tongue was used in the Council in Jos. Scaliger's time; and all Men were prohibited, under pain of being fined, to speak any other.  Savoyard Language is commonly spoken here, but all that are raised above the Dregs of the People speak also French. 'Tis true, their Dialect is none of the purest, but 'tis at the least as good as any that are used in most Provinces of France.  
About four small leagues from Geneva, between the Fort of Sluys and Mount Credo, the Rhone tumbles down a Precipice among the Rocks, and disappears entirely for some space: and therefore they who intent to go from Geneva to Lions by Water, are forced to embark at Seissel, below the Fall and Rising again of the River. I am,  
SIR, Your &c. Geneva, July 12, 1688.   

LETTER XXXV.  
SIR,  
THERE cannot be a more pleasant way than the Road between Geneva and Lausanne; for, the whole way seems to be one continued Hillock, very populous, and well tilled. We rarely lost sight of the Lake; and sometimes on the other side we saw Piles of lofty and forked Mountains glittering with Snow.  
The first night after our departure from Geneva we lay at the little Town of Morges, 
Morges.  on the Bank of the Lake; from thence we discovered the Smoke of a Fire that did a great deal of mischief at Vevay, towards the end of the Lake, as we were informed next morning.  

LAUSANNE.  The situation of Lausanns is extremely rough and uneven. We stopped not there, nor in any of the little Towns we met with afterwards, there being nothing in 'em worth observation.  

Morat.  On the Bank of the Lake Morat we took notice of a kind of Chapel, which is quite filled with the Bones of those Burgundians that were defeated in that place, 
* On the 20th of July 1476, we observed the following Inscription: D. O. M. Caroli inclyti & fortissimi Ducis Burgundiae Exercitus Muratrum obsidens ab Helvetiis caesus hoc sui monumentum reliquit. A. 1476.  to the number of Eighteen Thousand, by the joint Forces of Lorraine and Switzerland.  
Bern is not a large City, 
BERN.  tho' 'tis the Metropolis of the most potent Canton in Switzerland; 
Only married Persons are admitted into the Council. G. Burnet.  it is almost wholly built of hewn Stone, but the Buildings are more solid than beautiful; the Streets are clean, parted by a Rivulet that runs in the middle, on each side of which there are covered Walks under Porticoes, but they are too narrow. This City was built in the year 
* 
Others say, 1191.  
On the 6th of March 1352, this City entered into the Swiss Confederacy. J. Simler.   1175, by Berthold IV, Duke of Zeringhen; and the common Opinion is, that it had its name from a Bear that was taken there, when its Foundations were laid, the word Bern signifying a Bear in the Germane Language, for which reason also it bears that Animal in its Coat of Arms; and there are Bears kept and fed here, as those of Geneva breed Eagles.  
In this City we only visited the Arsenal and the great Church, the first of which is very well furnished, and in good condition. In one of the Halls there is a Statue of that 
† William Tell.  Citizen of Switz, who with an Arrow shot down an Apple that was placed on the Head of his own Child, fifty paces from him; and they are both represented in that posture. You know that cruel and extravagant Humour of the Governor Grisler, joined to several other Grievances of the same nature, 
‖ An. 1307, under the Empire of Albert I.  gave birth to the Swiss Republic. Childrey relates, among other English Prodigies, That one Robert Bone of Cornwall shot a little Bird on the Back of a Cow: but this last Archer did not run so great a hazard as the other.  
The following Inscription was lately placed over the Gate of the House appointed for Manufactories:  

* I'm informed this Inscription was removed in October 1692, at the desire of the French Ambassador.  Tempore quo crassa Clericorum Ignorantia, cum gratia & Privilegio Regis, in verum Dei cultum fureret; atque DRACONUM operâ eos quos Huguenotes vocant, ferro, flammâ, & omnis generis cruse, è Regno pelleret: Supremus Magistratus è ruderibus Coenobii olim Praedicatorum has Aedes extruxit, ut Pietatem simul & Artem Galliâ exulantes, hospitalibus tectis exciperet. Faxit Deus T. O. M. ut Charitatis hoc opificium, sit incremento Patriae. When the blind Ignorance of the Clergy, supported by the King 's Favor and Authority, raged against the true Worshippers of GOD; and by a Mission of Dragoons with fire and Sword, and all manner of Torments, drove those whom they call Huguenots out of the Kingdom: This House was erected by order of the Supreme Magistracy, out of the Ruins of an old Monastery of Praedicant Friars; that Religion and Art, banished together out of France. might here find a Hospitable Entertainment. May it please the most Great and Good GOD, that this Work of Charity may turn to the Advantage of our Country.  
In the Church that belonged to the Dominicans they preserve some Monuments of that memorable piece of Roguery acted by the Jacobin Friars, of which you may have read an account in Lavater's Treatise of Spectres. Henry Stephen relates it at length; and Nicholas Manuel, who translated it into the Germane Tongue, says, That it has been published in all Languages. The Story, in short, is thus: After several violent Debates between the Jacobins and Cordeliers concerning the Conception of the Virgin, whom these last maintained to be exempted from Original Sin; 
* John Vetter, Stephen Boltzhorst, Francis Ulchi, and Hen. Steniker.  four Jacobins of Bern, at the earnest solicitation of several others of the same Order, undertook to prove their Assertion by a Miracle; to carry on which design, they resolved to counterfeit Apparitions, and under borrowed shapes to speak in the night to a simple 
† John Jetzer.  Novice; and after many subtle Contrivances, they proceeded to make the Virgin herself tell him, that she was conceived in Sin, hoping to persuade the People by the noise of these Apparitions. The Plot succeeded for some time according to their desire, the Novice was deceived, he related his Visions, the People repaired to him as to a Saint or Prophet, and the Opinion of the Virgin's immaculate Conception began to be publicly discredited: But the Monks pushed the matter too far, Jetzer at last perceived the Cheat, and they finding themselves discovered, at the first endeavoured to gain him by Promises and Prayers, but afterwards proceeded to Threaten, and attempted several times to poison him; which he observing, made his escape out of the Convent, and declared the whole matter to the Magistrate, who asked and obtained 
‖ Two Bishops and the Provincial of the Jacobins.  extraordinary Judges of the Pope to decide so intricate a Case. The four Monks, whom the management of their Intrigue had engaged in a complication of the most enormous Crimes, were put to the Torture, and confessed all the Villainy; after which they were delivered over to the Secular Power, degraded and 
* An. 1509.  burnt in the public place. The Novice also underwent the Torture, but was at last acquitted.  

SOLOTURN. The People of Soloturn are very superstitious; they had formerly an Image of Christ on the Cross, habited like a Swisser.  Soloturn is seated in a fertile Valley on the River Aar, which passes also by Bern; it 
‡ 
In Celtis nihil est Soloduro antiquius, unis  
Exceptis Treviris, quarum Ego dicta soror.  Simler pretends that Soloturn was built by Ninus.  boasts much of its Antiquity, and in that respect assumes the Title of the Sister of Triers. It's Latin Name is written several ways by modern Authors, but in the Itinerary of Antonin 'tis called Solothurum, from a Tower, as some think, that was erected here in honour to the Sun. 'Tis encompassed with regular Fortifications, which are lined with great pieces of a sort of white Marble. The French Ambassador always resides here, and 'tis the Opinion of the People, that he fortified the Town.  
The People of Guastalla in the Duchy of Milan are of the same opinion concerning their 
† Dr. Burnet assures us, that in Sept. 1685 the Fortifications of this place had already cost the Inhabitants above Two millions.  Fortifications, on which Five hundred Men are constantly at work. 'Tis impossible to persuade 'em that the Fund of that Expense is in their Duke's Coffers: they acknowledge indeed that he might defray the Charge himself, but they have their own Reasons to believe the contrary.  
Basil is the largest, fairest, 
BASIL. This City was united to the Cantons 1327. J. Simler.  and richest City in Switzerland, tho' 'tis surrounded only with a Wall defended by some Towers; and 'tis also famous for its University. The Rhine is already very broad and rapid at this place; it runs through the City, dividing it into two parts, which are joined by a lovely Stone Bridge. That part of it next Germany is much less than the other, which is seated on a rising Ground.  
The Bishop that takes his Title from this City has his Residence at Poirentru, as the titular Bishop of Geneva resides at Annecy; but neither of those Prelates have any Power or Jurisdiction over these Cities.  
There are several considerable Libraries in this City, with some 
* In that which belongs to Mr. Sebastian Fesch there are many rare Pictures, and several very singular Medals, that are not to be met with any where else. Ch. Patin. The Cabinet of Erasmus and Amersback belongs to the University, where there are also Twenty Original Pieces by Holben, among which the dead Christ is particularly esteemed, and might have been sold for a Thousand Ducats. There are four excellent Series' of Medals, Greek, Consulary, and Gold and Brass Imperials; the Gold Medal of Photina, Trajan's Wife, is one of the most rare. The following Epigram is under a Picture of Erasmus, that represents half the Body: 
Ingens ingentem quem personat Orbis Erasmum,  
Hic tibi dimidium picta Tabella refert.  
At cur non totum? Mirari desine Lector;  
Integra nam totum Terra nec ipsa capit.  Among the Manuscripts in the Library there is a very rare Virgil, and an Alcoran written on China Paper. Ch Patin.  Cabinets of Curiosities. The Body of the Senators assembled in Council with their venerable Beards and Accoutrements, is looked upon as one of the most remarkable Rarities in this City, by those who are not accustomed to such Sights.  
Those who love Painting usually go to see the fine Pictures at the Town house, and especially the Dance of Death, by the famous Holben, who was born in this City, and learned his Art without the help of an Instructor: and 'tis observed, that there is a certain peculiar turn in his Works. He was called to England by Henry VIII, and 'tis said he embraced that occasion with Joy, to get rid of his peevish Importance at home. His Dance is to be seen in a public place, on the Wall of the French Churchyard; it represents a Train of all sorts of Persons, holding one another by the Hand, and carried to the Grave by Death, who leads the Dance: 'tis a Medley of Persons of both Sexes, and all Ages and Conditions.  
'Tis a general Custom over all Switzerland, and even in the little Towns, to send a Present of Wine to Travellers of great Quality. They who bring it have a set form of Speech which serves indifferently for all sorts of Persons, only they must take care to insert the word Excellency and other Titles of Honour in their proper places, according to the Dignity of their Guest, which is sometimes as difficult a Task for 'em to perform, as for the Person to whom their Compliment is addressed to forbear laughing at their fine Harangue. But, after all, they expect to be answered in Money.  

HUNNINGHEN.  An easy Descent leads from Basil to Hunninghen, along the left Bank of the Rhine. The Cavalier erected in this place, on the Bastion that looks towards Basil, with the Battery of great Guns levelled against that City, are sufficient Indications that 'tis not far from the Village of Hunninghen to the City of Basil.  
I will not undertake a particular description of the Fortifications of Hunninghen, but content myself with telling you in the general, that no Cost was spared to make 'em very good: the Rhine fills the Ditches, and forms a little Island over against the place, so that they were obliged to build a double Bridge over the two Arms of the River; and these Bridges are admirably well fortified, both in the Island and on the side next Germany.  
From Hunninghen we came to Friburg, 
FRIBURG in Brisgaw.  another important place four leagues from the Rhine; 'tis seated in a Plain at the Foot of the Hills, and tho' it encloses a large extent of Ground, the Fortifications that surround it are very good and regular. The Marshal de Crequi took this place, after a Siege of nine days, in the year 1677. It has oftentimes changed its Lords, but never changed its condition so much as since the last Conquest. It's present Masters have in a manner filled the neighbouring Hill with heaps of Forts and Trenches piled upon each other, and by so doing have not only possessed themselves of the high Grounds that command the City, but covered it with the Cannon of Forts.  
They make several little Knacks in this City of a sort of Agat found in the Neighbourhood.  
'Tis four hours Journey from Friburg to Brisack. 
BRISACK.  I am not at all surprised that this City was formerly called the Pillow of the Empire, for both its Figure and Strength deserve that Title. Imagine you see a Hillock, which seems to have been artificially raised of Beds of Earth laid on purpose, in the middle of a Country smooth as Ice. On one end of this little Hill or Pillow stands the Town; the Citadel is on the other; and both are encompassed with an excellent Fortification at the Foot of the Hillock. There is a Stone Bridge over the Rhine, extremely well fortified on the side next France.  

SCHELESTAT formerly an Imperial City.  Schelestat is in the lower Alsatia, four leagues from Brisack, and three from the Rhine. It is situated in a flat Country, not commanded by any Enemy, and enclosed with Fortifications that are of the same nature with those of the last-mentioned Cities. These places cannot be described without repeating the word Fortification a hundred times in a quarter of an hour. 
STRASBURG, formerly an Imperial City.  Strasburg is a Prodigy which in that respect surpasses all the other fortified places on the Rhine. The Platform I have sent you will give you a clearer Idea of it than the exactest description I could make. It was formerly an Imperial City, and followed the Doctrine of Luther.  
You may remember that this Great, Fair and Potent City fell into the French King's Hands Sept. 30. 1682.  
The 
* It's Height amounts to Five hundred seventy and four feet. It was finished in the year 1449. Mirabile opus caput inter nubila conduit. Aen. Sylu. The Basso relievoes on the tops of the great Pillars of the Church are not so visible, but they are surprising, for this being a Fabric of Three or Four hundred years old, it is very strange to see such representations as are there. There is a Procession represented, in which a Hog carrieth the Pot with the Holy Water, and Asses and Hogs in Priestly Vestments follow to make up the Procession; there is also an Ass standing before an Altar as if he were going to consecrate, and one carrieth a Case with Relics, in which one seethe a Fox, and the Trains of all that go in this Procession are carried up by Monkeys. Dr. Burnet, from Mr. Ablancourt.  Steeple of the Cathedral is the highest Pyramid in Europe, and the Church is at present in the possession of the Roman Catholics. The Bishop said Mass there, and harangued the King, a few days after the Conquest of the City.  
I can assure you (as one that has seen 'em both) that the great Clock of Strasburg does much exceed that of St. John's at Lions, both in the variety and curiosity of its motions. They say at Strasburg, that the last-named Clock is the best in France, but that theirs cannot be paralleled in the whole World. There is a printed Description of it, with a very exact Figure.  
The little River Ill runs through this City, and afterwards is branched out into several Channels. The Rhine is about a mile distant, towards the right hand.  
The Arsenal, which not long ago was celebrated over all Europe, is now almost quite disfurnished.  
The women's Habit is very odd and fantastical.  
I must tell you, before I conclude my Letter, that all the Towns and Villages we have hitherto seen in Alsatia are either wholly ruined, or half burnt, this lovely and unfortunate Country having been several times laid waste during the Wars. I am,  
SIR, Your &c. Strasburg, Jul. 22 1688.   

LETTER XXXVI.  
SIR,  
SOME particular Reasons having obliged us to leave Strasburg, and make all the haste we could to Brussels, we resolved to embark on the Rhine, tho' not without some reluctancy, because we had already travelled the same way between Mentz and Colen.  
Between Strasburg and the little City of Germensheim we stopped at Fort-Lewis, 
Fort-Lewis.  which is another French Fort, and not inferior to the rest in Strength. Here the Rhine makes an Island, which is covered with a Fort of four Bastions, and the two Bridges are fortified on each side, on the Banks of the two Arms of the River.  
Night coming on somewhat sooner than our Boatmen expected, we were obliged to land at a miserable Village, where we could neither find Beds nor Victuals: but that was not our greatest Misfortune, for an innumerable multitude of Gnats tormented us the whole night on our Straw in a Barn, and would not suffer us to rest a moment.  

PHILIPSBURG  We went ashore afterwards to see Philipsburg, which is a small Canonshot distant from the Rhine, on the Germane side. It was formerly a 
* Ca●●● Udenb●●●.  Village, fortified by Christopher Sotteren Elector of Triers, by reason of the conveniency of its situation, being naturally of difficult access, in the middle of a Marish, and not commanded by any rising Ground. 'Tis a regular Heptagon with Halfmoons before each Curtain. This Town is a Fief, and under the jurisdiction of the Bishopric of Spire; 
* Since the first Edition of this Book, this place is fallen again into the hands of the French.  it was taken from the French after a long Siege, in the year 1676, by the Germans, who relying on the Faith of the Truce, have not a very strong Garrison in it.  
Spire is a pretty little City, 
SPIRE, an Imperial City.  weak and without Trade, tho' it was famous heretofore: that which makes it considerable at present is the Imperial Chamber, which, after it had moved from place to place for above Two hundred years, was fixed here by Charles V This Chamber is a Sovereign Court, where all the Affairs of the Empire that are brought before it, are judged without appeal, unless in some few Cases. The Chief 
† This Judge must always be a Roman Catholic, and has 4000 Crowns Salary. Of the two Precedents, one is a Roman Catholic, and the other a Protestant; and of the Fifteen Assistants there are only Seven Protestants, the rest being roman-catholics. The Precedents have 2000 Crowns each, and every Assistant 1000 The Chamber never meddles with the Business of the War. 'Tis remarkable that the contending Parties can never discover the Names of those who state the Case, either before or after it is decided. They who appeal to the Emperor are obliged to consign a certain Sum, which, if they receive a favourable Sentence, is restored to 'em; if otherwise, they lose it. Heiss.  Judge represents the Emperor's Person, and has the Imperial Sceptre laid before him, as a mark of the Dignity with which he is clothed.  
There is also another great Tribunal in Germany called The Council of the Court, because 'tis held at Vienna, or follows the Imperial Court. This 
‖ This Council is al●o composed of Members of both Religions.  Council is not perpetual, nor, in all respects, of equal Dignity with the Imperial Chamber; yet Cases of the same nature are also debated, and sovereignly determined here. No Suits can be removed from one of these Chambers to the other; only in some cases a review of the Judgement may be obtained before the Emperor himself.  
The express Orders which the Marshal de Turenne received during the last Wars, not to disturb or interrupt the ordinary course of Justice in the Chamber of Spire, makes the Members of that Court believe that they shall be still treated with the same Respect. And they are so firmly persuaded of the 
* A little after the first Edition of this Book Spire and Worms were plundered by the French Troops, without the least regard to the Imperial Chamber.  French Civility, that tho' they lie open to an Invasion, in case of a Rupture, they never think of removing either the Court or Original Records.  
I shall pass from Spire to Colen, having nothing to add to the account I have already given you of the Cities that lie between 'em.  

JULIERS.  At our departure from Colen we took the Road to Juliers, the Motropolis of the Duchy of the same Name. As far as we could judge by the slight view we had of it, 'tis pretty well fortified. Here the Protestants enjoy the free exercise of their Religion, by virtue of the Treaty which I mentioned before.  

AIX LA CHAPELLE, an Imperial City; 'tis also called Royal, being perhaps honoured with that Title, because according to the Tenor of the Golden Bull, the King of the Romans ought to receive his first Crown here. Heiss.  Leaving Juliers, we passed through a good and pleasant Country, and in four or five hours came to Aix la Chapelle. That famous City is still large and beautiful, tho' it has lost much of its ancient lustre. It has also preserved its Liberty entire; only the Duke of Newburg, as Duke of Juliers, within whose Lands it lies, has a Right to name the Burgomaster. 'Tis under the Protection of the King of Spain, as Duke of Brabant.  
This 
* This City is double: the inward City called Carolina is enclosed with its ancient Walls, Blond.  City was almost wholly rebuilt by Charles the Great, having lain desolate for almost four Ages, after it was sacked by Attila. The same Emperor endowed it with several Privileges, made it the capital City of Gaul beyond the Alps, and honoured it with his usual Residence. He built also the great Church, from which the Town took the Name of Aix la Chapelle, whereas before it was called Aquisgranum, from a 
† The old Tower joined to the Townhouse on the East side, does still retain the name of Granus or Granius. Idem.  Roman Prince named Granus, a Brother or Kinsman of Nero, who having discovered Mineral Waters in this place, built a Castle, and laid the first Foundations of the City. Charles the Great 
‖ At the age of 72 years, in the Fourteenth year of his Empire, the Forty eighth of his Reign, and of Christ 814.  died here, and his Tomb remains to this day.  
For the space of above Five hundred years, several Emperors that succeeded Charles the Great were desirous to be Crowned at Aix; and I think I told you that Charles iv made a positive regulation of this Ceremony, by one of the Constitutions of the Golden Bull, which ordained that the Emperors should afterwards receive their first Crown here; but that Custom has been laid aside for some time, and there remain only two Marks of the ancient Privileges of this City; first, there are Deputies sent both to Aix and Nuremburg, to acquaint 'em with the Election of a new Emperor, that they may send the Imperial * Ornaments and other things necessary for the Solemnity of the Inauguration, 
Aix sends some Relics, a book of the Gospels written in Letters of Gold and one of Charles the Great's Swords, with the Brit I have already given an account of the Ornament that are kept at Nuremburg.  that are deposited in their hands. And secondly, wheresoever the Ceremony is performed, the Emperor declares solemnly, That tho' for some particular Reasons he could not receive his first Crown at Aix, that Omission shall not be interpreted to the prejudice or diminution of the Privileges of that City. The Emperor is always a Canon of Aix, and takes an Oath for that purpose, on the day of his Coronation.  
Some Persons here assure me, that both Religions enjoy equal Privileges at Aix; but I must confess I forgot to inquire, when I passed by that City, and therefore I will affirm nothing positively.  
I read t'other day, in a short description of the Country of Juliers, 
〈◊〉 Monulsus. and St. Godulrus' Bishops of Liege.  that two Canonised Prelates gave themselves the trouble of rising from the Dead on purpose to be present at the Dedication of the Chapel of Aix, after which they marched back to their Tombs. Does not this Story put you in mind of L. Q. Cincinnatus, who after he had been Dictator, and gained a Battle, returned peaceably to his Plough.  

MASTREICHT.  We stayed but two or three hours at Mastreicht, a City of an indifferent largeness, pretty well built, and strongly fortified; the Garrison consists of between Nine and Ten thousand Men, and we saw the 
† The present King of England.  Prince of Orange take a review of 'em. Some Battalions performed several Martial Exercises, and they are all extremely well disciplined. The little part of the City on the right Bank of the  is called Wyek▪ I know not whether you have observed that the Names of Mastreicht and Vtrecht are both derived from the word Trajectum, which is their common Name in Latin. Vtrecht was called inferius or ulterius Trajectum, and was the passage of the Rhine. And Mastreicht was named Mosae Trajectum, the passage of the , and Trajectum superius, or the upper Passage.  
About Three a-clock in the Afternoon we left Mastreicht, 
LIEGE.  and arrived the same Evening at Liege, which we found so full of People, 
The Bishop's Seat was formerly at Tongres, from whence it was transferred to Mastreicht, and from thence to Liege. Heiss.  by reason of the Ceremony of the Bishop's Election, that we could not be accommodated with Beds.  
Liege is a pretty large City, populous, and adorned with some fine Structures, of which the Cathedral Church and the Bishop's Palace are the two principal. Formerly there was not a Chapter in the whole Empire so honourable as that of Liege. The Annals of this City relate, that in the year 1131, when the Emperor Lotharius II. was crowned in this place by Pope Innocent TWO, the Chapter that assisted at the Ceremony was composed of nine Sons of Kings, fourteen Sons of Dukes who were Sovereign Princes, nine and twenty Counts of the Sacred Empire, and eight Barons. But now any Licentiate Doctor in the University of Louvain may be a Canon of Liege.  
This City is divided by the  into two parts, of which that on the left side of the River is the principal. They are joined by a fair Stone-bridge, which gives a passage under its Arches to great Barks, which bring all sorts of Merchandise, and are very convenient for Trade.  

Coal is also found in France, in some parts of Auvergne, and in Forests.  There are many Armourers in this place, who are drawn hither, without doubt, for the conveniency of Coal, which is found here, and burnt as commonly as at London. 'Tis called Hoville, from a certain Smith named Goodman le Hovilloux, by whom, they pretend, it was first discovered. They add, that a Ghost, under the shape of an old Man clothed in white, showed him the Mine.  
The Vineyards with which the little Hills of Liege are almost wholly covered, deserve to be taken notice of, because of the Climate, tho' the Wine is not strong. The same Hills contain Quarries of very fine black Marble.  
Departing from Liege we passed in sight of Tongres and Saintron, and lay at the little City of Tilmont. 
Tilmont, or Tirlemont.  The next day we dined at Louvain, and arrived in the Evening at Brussels, where we still remain.  

LOUVAIN, the Metropolitan See of Brabant. One of the Laws of the University ordains, that Whoremongers should be Beheaded with a Wooden Saw, and Pimps, or those that are accessary to the committing of Whoredom, banished. It was formerly the Privilege of the Dean of the Canons to receive the Oath from the Duke of Brabant, at his accession to the Sovereignty. The Well in the Castle is remarkable for its depth, and an Echo that resounds in it. There is a Tower in the City called Verloren Kost, or Charge Lost, because the People of Louvain intended to have built Seven other Towers like to this, but were prevented by some Accidents, so that they erected only one. Voyage to Flanders by a nameless Author. There are some Vineyards about Louvain.  Louvain, the second City of Brabant, is very large, and pleasantly built; 'tis said there are some Monuments in it of the age of Caesar. We visited several fair Churches, the Townhouse, the School of Medicine, and some other considerable Structures; but, in my Opinion, the University is its greatest Ornament, which was founded by John IV, Duke of Brabant, in the year 1425. It contains Five and forty endowed Colleges, with Schools of Divinity, Law and Physic.  
An Inhabitant of Louvain, who happened to be in an Inn where we were, offered to carry us to a Convent a quarter of a league from the City, where he promised to procure us a sight of several Curiosities, but we had not time to accept of his Kindness. He told us, that among other things there was in that Monastery a Genealogical Stem of the House of Croüy, by which it appeared, that the Head of that Family now living was descended in a right line from Adam. An English Gentleman, to whom I related the Story t'other day, assured me, that he knew several Families in Wales, who produce like Catalogues of their Ancestors. But don't ye think they might content themselves with deriving their Pedigree from Noah? If these Gentlemen had read 
* See E. Pasquier, Part 2, Book 19, Letter 6.  Le Feron's Heraldry, who informs us, that Adam bore Three Fig-leaves in his Coat of Arms, 'tis probable they would not make use of any other Scutcheon. I hope we shall meet with some noble Preadamites some time or other.  
At Mr. Gutschoven's House, who is a Physician and great Anatomist, we saw several embalmed Bodies, dissected after divers methods, and very well preserved, in which the Veins, Arteries, Muscles, Nerves, etc. are separated and distinguished from each other, so that almost the entire Contexture of the Parts of a Human Body may be perfectly discerned. The Veins, Arteries, and even the least Fibres, are filled with a certain red matter, which makes 'em appear like so many Branches of Coral. This is esteemed a rare Curiosity.  
I must not forget to mention another Rarity which we saw at Milan. Some Dutch Mariners showed for Twopences a Sea-Calf, which they had taken on the Coast of Greenland, and was grown so tame, that he who had the chief care of it could make it play a hundred apish Tricks. 'Tis about the bigness of a Lamb fifteen days old; its Hair is smooth, soft, and almost of an Olive colour; it has a short Head, with two Whiskers like a Cat, 
Pinnace quibus in mari utuntur, humi quoque vice pedum Serpunt. Plin.  and its four Feet end in Toes or Claws joined like those of a Goose; it walks and stands on its fore-feets, and draws the other two after it, which are always stretched backwards. This Amphibious Creature is at present nourished with Milk. I remember, as we passed by the Hague, almost a year ago, a Lady of Zealand told me she had seen a tame Sea Dog at Tergoutz, who eat all sorts of Victuals, and barked like other Dogs, but made a duller noise.  
I have been long expecting, with impatience, to hear from you; I entreat you to do me the favour to write to me as soon as you can. I am very sincerely,  
SIR, Your &c. Brussels, Aug. 12. 1688.   

LETTER XXXVII.  
SIR,  
YOUR Reflections on my last Letters, and several other Passages in that which I received from you, might furnish me with sufficient matter for a very long Answer; but since I hope to have the honour to see you very speedily, I shall defer the further consideration of these points till our meeting, and at present only communicate to you some of those Observations I have made during our stay at Brussels,  
I need not tell you, 
BRUSSELS.  that this is the capital City of the Duchy of Brabant, and the ordinary Residence of the Governors of the Spanish Netherlands.  
This City is of an oval Figure, large, populous, enclosed 
* On one side there are some neglected Fortifications, which were never lined.  only with a Wall and Ditches, and situated partly in a Plain, and partly on the Brow of a little Hill. The low Town is divided by great Canals, which are filled by the little River Senne, and communicate with that of the Scheld. These Canals are navigable by Barks of a considerable burden, and are very convenient for Trade. The Air of Brussels is very good; the public places are adorned with Fountains, the Streets are of a convenient breadth and well paved, the Houses large and commodious, and the whole neighbouring Country is extremely fertile.  
The People of Brussels, and generally of all Brabant, are free, kind, civil, and perhaps a little too easy; but notwithstanding all their Simplicity, they change their Humour when they are provoked, and have on some occasions given sufficient Proofs of their Bravery.  
The Palace, usually called the Court, where the 
* The Marquis of Castanaga, 1688. Since the first Edition of this Book the Elector of Bavaria was made perpetual Governor, 1691.  Governor resides, is neither regular nor magnificent, and at most can be called moderately beautiful; but the prospect of the Park from its principal Apartments is extremely pleasant.  
Descending from the Palace to the Park, on the end of a Wall near the little Garden, I observed a great Gun, the Story of which deserves to be related; but that I may not detain you too long, I shall only subjoin the 
† The sum of which is, that one of the Enemy's Ships being blown up by a Shot, that Cannon, together with a young Maid, were carried through the Air, and fell in the Palace, and that the Governess of the Netherlands ordered the Maid to be educated.  Inscription which is engraved on a piece of Marble beneath the Cannon:  
Dederit ne viam Casúsve Deúsve?  
Mirabili certe casu  
Hostilis navis tormentis Regiis perforata  
Cum accenso pulvere crepuisset;  
Hoc tormentum, & unà Juvenculam  
Altè sublatam in Regis Praetorio deposuit.  
Adeo tutum in Rege non solum Innocentia  
Sed etiam supplex hostilitas perfugium habet  
ISABEL CLARA EUGENIA  
BELGII PRINCEPS  
in rei monumentum  
Tormentum hîc deponi, Juvenculam ali jussit.  
From the Garden or Flower-plot you ascend to the Park, which is planted with Oaks, Beech-trees, and Walnut-trees, and contains a great number of Deer. It's lovely Alleys make one of the pleasantest Walks about the City; and you may also walk quite round the Ramparts, almost always between two rows of Trees.  
On the other side of the Park there is a little House of Pleasure, which was 
* After he had resigned his Power he retired to this House, and stayed there five or six months.  built by Charles the Fifth, and where among other things the Cradle of that Emperor is still preserved. In the great Hall of the other Palace he resigned the Kingdom of Spain to his Son Philip.  
Not far from thence they showed us a large Gallery full of several sorts of Arms and Furniture for Tournaments, besides ancient Suits of Harness or Armour of several Emperors, Kings, Archdukes, and other Princes or great Captains.  
In the same place they have also taken care to preserve the Memory of three illustrious Horses, whose Skins are glued on artificial Horses of the same stature with the Originals. They told us, That one of these Horses was sold for 12000 Crowns to Philip TWO, who made a Present of him to Lewis de Requesens, great Commander of Castil, and 
† After the Duke of Alva.  Governor of the Netherlands. The second had the Honour to bear the Infanta Isabel, when she made her Entry into Brussels. And the third saved the Life of Archduke Albert, at the Siege of Ostend.  
One of my Friends gave me the Epitaph of the last of these Animals, whose Name was Noble; you will find in it a Reflection worthy of a Horse of Merit.  
Siste gradum, Spectator; ego de nomine dicor  
Nobilis; at Virtus nomine major erat.  
Archiduci Alberto prostravi terga, tenacem  
Cum circa Ostendam Martia Erinnys erat.  
Hunc ipsum eripui pugnantem hostilibus armis,  
Cum Mors sanguineum falce parabat opus.  
Me magis ardebat Miles, quia Virginis instar,  
Cernebat niveâ crescere fronte jubam.  
Hinc, ut me raperet, crebrò sua spicula & enses  
In caput ignoti struxerat Archiducis.  
Evasi, eduxique Virum, meque ipse reduxit  
Incolumem. Nostrae non erat hora necis.  
Ast anno vertente, die quo evasimus ambo,  
Nobilis interii. Cernite qualis eram.  
There is a very odd Custom in this City, that Coaches are drawn by Dogs as usually as by Horses. 
These Dogs are not extraordinarily big.  They Harness three or four Mastiffs, whom they place at one another's side, and make 'em draw prodigious weights. I am certainly informed, that, on a Wager, two of those Animals drew five Men in a Coach from one end of the City to the other. Besides, which is the main conveniency in this way of carriage, Dogs may be kept at a much easier rate than Horses, and here there are Eating houses or Halfpenny Ordinaries for 'em, where they may fill their Bellies with Flesh taken from the Dunghills, and such other Victuals.  

† I believe M. is guilty of a Mistake, which doubtless proceeded from his misunderstanding the following Passage in Dionys. Halic. Mihi sane tria magnificentissima videntur, ex quibus maxime apparet magnitudo Romani Imperii; Aquaeductus, viae Stratae & Cloacae, reputanti non solum utilitatem operum, verum etiam impensarum magnitudinem, quam vel hinc licet conjicere, quod ut affirmat C. Aquilius, neglectas aliquando Cloacas, & non transmittentes aquas, Censores mille talentis purgandas locaverint. According to F. Nardin 's Calculation, a Thousand Talents are equivalent to Six hundred thousand Crowns of Gold.  Since it has been observed by some Authors that the Roman Censors caused the * Filth that was taken ex latrinis, or out of the Common-shores, to be 
* M. confines the meaning of the Phrase to hominum stercora, or Human Excrements; but this is a second Error, for the Cloaca maxima was the Common-shore or Sink of all manner of Filth and Nastiness, according to Livy, Receptaculum omnium purgamentorum Urbis.  sold, and that the price of it in one year amounted to Six hundred thousand Crowns, I may venture to acquaint you, that they drive the same Trade at Brussels. They gather all the Filth of the City very carefully into one place, and after it is duly fermented, it is bought and sold like other Commodities. I had the fortune one day to pass by that place just as three or four Dutch Barks were taking in their sweet Lading; this put me in mind of Juvenal's Reflection, which I think could never be more fitly applied; 
— lucri bonus ex re  
Qualibet.—  You know Vespasian's Answer to Titus concerning the Imposition on Urine. As they are great Lovers of Flowers in Holland and Flanders, they take particular care to preserve this sort of Dung to make Beds for 'em; and I fancy the odoriferous Smell of those Flowers might furnish matter for a Riddle, not unlike to that of Sampson's Honey.  
To change the Subject of our Discourse, I can assure you that there are few Cities in this Country so well furnished with good Company as Brussels. Almost all the Inhabitants speak French; there is a great number of Persons of Quality; the Ladies are handsome, and a Stranger may be easily introduced into the best company.  
Four or five great Streets of the low Town form an Island, and at the same time a kind of Circle, where they usually take the Air in Coaches every Evening, and even in Winter as well as in Summer; for they choose rather to take their Pleasure in Coaches than to walk a foot, whereas at Paris the Tuilleries are more frequented than the Walks for Coaches.  
I told you before, that at Rome, and in some other Towns of Italy, the Men never enter into the same Coach with Women; and the same custom is also generally observed here when they go to take the Air. But whereas at Rome they are possessed with an opinion, that Decency will not admit the Women to be seen in company with Men, here they separate out of pure Gallantry. Perhaps you will imagine this to be a Paradox, but you must consider that the Men go on one side and the Women on the other, and that they meet, and talk, and ogle as they please. Thus their division occasions a more general Society, which would be very diverting, if every one were not obliged to salute all that pass by, and to repeat his Salutations as often as he meets another Coach.  
There is a pleasant Ceremony observed by the Citizens on the 19th of January. The Women undress their Husbands and carry 'em to Bed, and on the morrow the Husbands treat their Friends. I cannot give you a positive account of the Original of this Custom, but I had the fortune to be in a company where there were two different Reasons given for it, and both the opposite Parties persisted obstinately in their several Opinions.  
Some alleged, that on a certain time (which they did not think fit to mention more particularly) the City being reduced to Extremity after a long Siege, at last surrendered on Condition, that the Women should be suffered to departed unmolested with their little Children, and all that they could carry with 'em besides; and that instead of packing up their Toilettes, every one marched out with her Best-beloved between her Shoulders, and so cheated their Enemies.  
Others, who laughed at this Story and called it a Fable, assured us, that a considerable number of the Inhabitants of Brussels followed St. Lewis in his first Croisado, and had the good fortune to suffer less than most other Troops which composed that numerous Army when it was totally routed: For, continued our Informers, the greatest part of 'em either escaped or were redeemed, and afterwards they joined in a Body to return home. Now their Wives hearing of their approach, ran to meet 'em, and in a Transport of Joy caught 'em up, and carried 'em home in their Arms. But, if I durst presume to mend the Story, instead of overloading the Women with so unreasonable a Burden, I would content myself with making 'em undress their Husbands the first night after their return, by reason of the good Humour of the former, and the Weariness of the latter.  
These Warriors put me in mind of a sort of Monument that is to be seen over the Gate of Flanders, where there are Figures of Men armed with Spits. An honest old Man, who made me take notice of 'em, told me, that they were placed there for a Memorial of the Valour of his Countrymen, on the following occasion. When the People of Ghent revolted under the Government of the Queen Dowager of Hungary, Charles the Fifth's Sister, and came to surprise and plunder this City, the Rabble of the Town sallied out of the abovementioned Gate, armed with Spits and Pitchforks, and bravely repulsed the Enemy.  
The finest Churches in Brussels are those of St. Gudula and of the Jesuits. These Fathers have great Bells, such as are used in Parish Churches, contrary to the usual Custom. They made use of the Pretext of certain extraordinary Catechizing, to obtain leave to ring a small Bell; but by degrees they left off that troublesome Exercise, and in the mean time augmented their * Bell. This piece of boldness stirs up the Jealousy of the other Monks, who were not overfond of the Jesuits before.  
The Chapel of the Holy Sacrament of Miracles is particularly taken notice of at St. Gudula's, because of the Relics that are kept in it. There is a Tradition, that certain Jews having bought several consecrated Hosts of a Priest, stabbed 'em with a Knife, and that a great deal of Blood flowed out of the Wounds. The Jews were burnt on the highest Tower of the City-walls, so that the Fire was seen at the distance of Ten miles, and the Hosties were found and placed on the Altar of the Chapel, in a Shrine of Gold. This Story is painted on the Wall near the Quire.  
The Church of the Capuchins is one of the finest Temples that those Friars have in any part of the World.  
There are several Rarities in the Library of the Jesuits, and among other things the Chair of Leather gilt, in which Charles V performed the Ceremony of his Resignation.  
The Chapel of the Family of Tassis, in the Church Des Sablons, deserves to be particularly considered.  
I'm informed, that of Five and thirty thousand Acres which the Province of Brabant contains, Nine and twenty thousand are possessed by Ecclesiastical Societies.  
There are some few Protestants at Brussels, but they are not allowed the least degrees of Liberty, neither do they own their Religion openly; yet this Country is not under the Power of the Inquisition, for the States would never suffer that Tyrannical Court to be established among 'em.  
I designed to have given you some account of the Academy, the Theatre, the public Place, the Town house, with its Pictures and fine-Tower, the Duke de Bournonville's Gardens, the Count of Egmont's Hall, the Carmelites Garden, and the Glass-house; but I am forced to conclude my Letter. You know that Lace and Tapestry make a part of the Trade of this City.  
We are just going to take a turn to Antwerp, from whence we design to return hither, and after two or three days to proceed on our Journey homeward, by the way of Ghent, Bruges, Ostend, and Newport, where we expect to find the Yacht. I am,  
SIR, Your &c. Brussels, Sept. 23. 1688.   

LETTER XXXVI.  
SIR,  
FROM Brussels we made use of the ordinary Passage by the Canal, and in five hours came to the Village called little Villebroeck, where we embarked on the Ruppel, and by the help of a favourable Wind and Tide, in less than two hours, arrived at Antwerp.  
At our departure from Antwerp we hired a Coach, which carried us by the way of Mechlin to the little City of Vilvorden, where we took Boat for Brussels, which is but two leagues distant.  

MECHLIN.  Mechlin is famous for its neatness, in which nevertheless, if I may judge by what appeared to us, it exceeds not other places. There is a great deal of Lace made here, and the River Dyle, on which the Town is situated, fills the Canals, which open a communication between this and most of the neighbouring Cities. The Women of the Lordship of Mechlin go frequently to Brabant to be brought to Bed, that their Children may enjoy the Privileges of the Natives of that Province. I have subjoined an Abstract of these so much talked of Privileges:  
I. The Duke (who at present is the King of Spain) shall not call a Meeting of the Prelates or inferior Clergy, without the Knowledge, Consent, and particular Approbation of the Two other States, the Nobility and Common People.  
II. The Duke shall not prosecute any of his Subjects or Inhabitants of the Country, but by the usual methods of Justice, that the accused Person may defend himself by his Counsel, and plead his own Cause publicly.  
III. The Duke shall not be impower'd to impose Taxes, or any other Exactions, on his Subjects, without the Consent of the States of the Country.  
IU. No honourable Office shall be bestowed on Foreigners, excepting only some inconsiderable Employments.  
V When the Duke calls a Meeting of the States-General, to require any thing to be granted to him, those of Brabant shall not be obliged to go out of their own Province, or to come to any conclusion, but in the same,  
VI If the Duke shall by Force, Fraud, or any other way infringe or violate any of the said Privileges, the People of Brabant, after they have duly and civilly protested against him, shall be held to be absolved from their Oath of Fidelity, and may freely do as they shall think fit.  
The Province of Brabant, and Lordship of Mechlin, by an ancient Custom, never receive any particular Governor. The great Council Royal, which was instituted by Charles Duke of Burgundy, in the year 1473, and formerly followed the Court, was fixed at Mechlin An. 1503. It judges Sovereignly, and without Appeal, the Knights of the Golden Fleece, nor can its Judgements be reviewed. I could not hear of any Rarities worth observation in this City.  

ANTWERP, formerly a Hans Town.  The famous City of Antwerp deserves to be more particularly described. 'Tis seated on a smooth and level spot of Ground, on the right Bank of the Scheld; its Figure approaches to a Semicircle, the diameter of which is washed by the River, and I'm credibly informed that it contains Five thousand six hundred and thirty five Geometrical paces in compass. The Houses are built partly of Wood, and partly of Brick, after an unusual manner, with Battlements on the Pinnacles on the tops of 'em, and very high Roofs, according to the common Fashion of the Country, yet they are generally handsome. The Streets, for the most part, are large, straight, and well paved.  
The Fortifications are indifferent; the Ramparts are adorned almost throughout with double Alleys bordered with great Trees, which make very pleasant Walks; the Citadel is strong, but somewhat neglected; 'tis a regular Pentagon.  
It was built in the year 1567., and I'm told it cost Five hundred thousand Ducats: the Duke of Alva's Statue in Brass was erected in the middle of the Place of Arms; he was represented in complete Armour, but without a Headpiece, his right Arm was extended toward the City, and his Hand open. Under his Feet was a monstrous Figure with two Heads and six Arms; it had two Dishes hanging at its Ears, and at its Neck a Wallet or Satchel, out of which issued two Serpents. The six Hands held a Torch, a Leaf of Paper, a Purse, a torn Cloak, a Club, and an Axe, and at the Feet of the Monster there was a Visor: On the Face of the Pedestal that looked toward the City were these Letters: 
* Ferdinando Alvarez a Toledo, Albae Duci, Phillip II. Hisp. Regis apud Belgas praefecto, quod extincta seditione, Rebellibus pulsis, Religione procurata, Justitia culta, Provinciis Pabem firmaverit. Regis Optimi Ministro fidelissimo positum.  F. A. A. T. A. D. P. S. H. R. A. B. P. Q. E. S. R. P. R. P. I. C. P. P. F. R. O. M. F. P. This Statue was not long after broken by the People.  
I find a pleasant Story in Chappuys, which I cannot forbear relating to you. When the Spaniards made the Duke of Arschot Governor of this Citadel, the Duke putting his Hands between the Person's Hands who was to receive his Oath, pronounced these words; I swear by the Name of God, and of the Holy Mary, that I will faithfully keep and preserve this Citadel, etc. After which the following Answer was returned to him as part of the Ceremony: If you do so, God assist you; if not, the Devil take you, Soul and Body: And the whole Assembly answered Amen.  
The Scheld is large and deep over against Antwerp, and two leagues on each side of it; this was formerly the richest and most frequented Port in Europe. I read not long ago in some Fragments of the Annals of this City, that the Trade of it, in the year 1550, amounted to a hundred and thirty three millions of Gold, without reckoning the Bank. In the same Memoirs 

Omnimodae Merces, Artes priscaeque, novaeque.  
Et quae sunt aliis singula cuncta mihi. Scal.   I found the following Story, which may serve for a Specimen of the ancient Riches of Antwerp.  
One John Daens, a Merchant, lent a million of Gold to Charles V, (I think) toward the prosecution of the War of Hungary: the Emperor, at his return from that Expedition, came to Antwerp, and was invited to Dinner by his Creditor; he accepted the Invitation, and was splendidly entertained; and the Merchant, after he had burnt a Fire of Cinnamon all the while, at last, to crown the Treat, threw the Emperor's Obligation into the midst of it.  
I need not tell you, that there have happened great Alterations since that time. The Port of Antwerp is destitute of Ships; the Exchange is desolate and unfrequented, and the City, tho' still beautiful, enjoys a sad Tranquillity, yet there are many rich Families in it.  
London and Antwerp were the two principal Cities of the Germane Hanse or League. That great Society had a 
* 'tis called the Osterlings House.  large and fair public House in the last of those Cities, which is still to be seen: the Bourse or Exchange is Ninety Foot long, and Seventy broad, comprehending the wideness of the Porticoes that surround it on the inside. It was built in the year 1531, and took its Name from a House that stood formerly in the same place, on which there was a Scutcheon charged with three 
† Bourses in French.  Purses, and from that time the public places appointed for the meeting of Merchants have almost every where retained the Name of Bourse. The Town house is also a very fine Structure.  
The first time I saw the Churches of Antwerp I confess I was surprised with their Magnificence, and especially I admired that which belonged to the Jesuits, where there is nothing to be seen but Marble and rare Pictures; but since that time I have seen a hundred Churches in Italy which surpass those of this City. Nevertheless that Country cannot boast of such a Pyramid as the Steeple of the Cathedral of Antwerp, which is almost as 
* 420 foot high. There are Three and thirty Bells in the Tower.  high as that of Strasburg, and more finely wrought: 'Tis true, the Italians have Domes and Towers separated from the Body of the Church, but they are perfect Strangers to such Steeples as that of this Cathedral.  
Thirty paces from the same Church there is a Well, where we observed that the Iron branches on which the Poultry hangs are adorned with Foliages, and were told that they were wrought by a famous Smith called Quintin Mathys. This Anvil-beater became enamoured of a Painter's Daughter, and had the good Fortune to touch her Heart; he was handsome, witty, and ingenious, and besides was Master of a considerable Fortune for a man of his Profession; but the Painter would by no means be persuaded to give his Daughter to a Blacksmith. The old man's Obstinacy did not dishearten Quintin; his Love animated him, and taught him to overcome that difficulty: he exchanged his Hammer for a Pencil, and in a little time equalled and even surpassed the best Painters in Antwerp; after which he received the dear Reward of his Labours. This generous Lover died Anno 1529, and was buried at the Foot of the Cathedral, near the great Portal; the following Verse is engraved on the Wall over his Tomb.  
CONNUBIALIS AMOR DE MULCIBRE FECIT APELLEM;  
Love metamorphosed Vulcan to Apelles.  
Plantin's Printing-house remains in some measure to this very day; 'tis now in the possession of Moretus, who is also a very skilful Printer.  
The Water of the Scheld being always brackish before Antwerp, and the Fountains of the City not sufficient to serve the Brewhouses, they were forced to be at the charge of bringing a new supply of Water by a Canal, which empties its self into a great Cistern, out of which the Water is raised by Engines to a large Basin, from whence 'tis distributed by forty Pipes to as many Brewhouses. The Brewers are fixed to that number by reason of the great scarcity of Water, which they have only at certain hours, and every one knows when to open the Cock of his Pipe.  
Some Authors relate, That Charles the Fifth passing through Paris, to show his contempt of that City, said he would put it in his 
* In French 'Gan signifies a Glove, and Ghent is also called Gant. In the year 1427 the Count of Nassaw Baron de Diestein, the Marquis of Bergopzom, and the Baron of Wesemale, caused the Circuit of several great Cities to be measured for a Wager: and they found (as it appears by an authentic Record still extant) that the Circumference of Louvain exceeds that of Ghent, by three Rods or sixty Feet. Voyage to Flanders.  Glove, meaning, That it might be contained in Ghent. The Jests of great Princes are commonly received as Oracles; and this little Story, whether true or false, has doubtless occasioned the ridiculous mistake of several Authors, who speak of Ghent as of the greatest City in Europe. I know not whether it might not be contained in the Suburb of St. Germane; but I'm sure it will appear very inconsiderable if it be compared to Paris. 'Tis true, Ghent is a City, but Paris is a little World.  
After all, it must be acknowledged, that Ghent is a very pleasant place; 'tis a fine City, neat, prettily built, in a good Air, and convenient situation: whereas at Paris the Houses hid the City; here they are not so thick, but that the Town may be easily viewed. The French King took it in six days, notwithstanding the Inundations of its Sluices, Ann. 1678.  
It receives great Advantages from the neighbourhood of the Scheld and Lys; there is a Bridge over the latter, on which there are two Statues of Brass representing one Man ready to cut off fewer Head. The same Figures are to be seen in a large Picture in the Townhouse, with this Inscription written below;  
A Gandt le en Fandt fraepe sae Pere se taete desuu  
maeis se heppe rompe si graece de Dieu, 1371.  
I know not whether you can understand this Gaulish or rather old Walloon Tongue without the help of an Interpreter. A Gand, says the Inscription, l'Enfant frappe son Pere dessus la teste, mais son épée romp, par la grace de Dieu. To explain the meaning of it, they told us the following Story: A Father and his Son being convicted of a certain Crime, received Sentence of Death, but afterwards a Pardon was offered to either of 'em that would be the other's Executioner. This rigorous Mercy inspired both the unhappy Wretches with a desire of dying, and they contended obstinately for that which they esteemed the more advantageous part of so cruel a Choice; but at last the Father prevailed, he had a greater Strength of Mind, and the length of his Life had weakened the desire of it. After the Son had resolved to take away the Life of him to whom he owed his own, and had already put himself in a posture to give the fatal blow, the Sword either broke in the Air, or the Blade flew out of the Handle; which Accident being interpreted as a particular Effect of Providence, both the Malefactors were set at liberty.  
The ancient Building, called the Prince's Court, was heretofore the Palace of the Counts of Flanders. We went thither to see the Chamber where Charles the Fifth was 
* The Prelates of Ghent presented him with a Bible as soon as he was born, with these words written on it, Study this Book. Act. Her. de Ch. V.  born, which is so little a Room, that 'tis impossible there could ever be a Bed in it; and yet there is an ancient Inscription which proves evidently, that this is the place where that Prince came into the World. However, Ghent has no reason to boast of giving birth to so great a Prince, 
In the Church of the Nuns, called Beguines, there is a miraculous Crucifix, with an open Mouth. It happened one day, during the time of the Carnaval, that all the Sisterhood went abroad to take their Pleasure, leaving only one of their Companions at home, who was perhaps as great a lover of the Sport as any of the rest, and unable to bear so great an Affront, went to make her Complaint to the Crucifix, from which she received the following Answer; Grieve not, my Daughter, to morrow thou shalt rejoice with me at my eternal Wedding. This Prophecy was entirely accomplished; for the Beguin died the next day, and the Crucifix remained ever afterwards with its Mouth open.  for he used it so roughly afterwards, that it had been better for that City he had never been born. 'Tis observed that his birth happened on St. Matthias' day, and that afterwards on the same day he was proclaimed Emperor, and took King Francis I. Prisoner.  
The Cathedral is a vast Structure, dedicated to St. Bavon. Here I observed an Epitaph on a certain Prelate, which (tho' plain and short) is perhaps more expressive than the most studied Eulogies.  
Ecclesia Antistitem amisit,  
Respublica Virum.  
The Church has lost a Bishop,  
And the Commonwealth a Man.  
From Ghent we embarked on the Canal that leads to Bruges, which, without controversy, 
BRUGES, formerly a Hans Town.  is a very large and fair City. It does not comprehend so large an extent of Ground as Ghent, 
In this City a Traveller ought to visit the Townhouse, the Water-house, Episcopal Palace, Cathedral, great Marketplace, the Colleges of the four Nations of Flanders, the Church of the Jesuits, and several magnificent Tombs in the Collegiate Church of Our Lady. In the Cathedral, at the side of the Choir, they show the place where Charles the Good, Count of Flanders, was assassinated by some Persons, whom he had compelled to open their Magazines in a time of Famine. Voyage to Flanders.  but 'tis much better inhabited, and its Buildings are more uniform. Ships of Five hundred Tun may come up to it by the great Canal, but Holland has drawn the Trade from hence as well as from Antwerp.  
The Order of the Golden Fleece was instituted at Bruges, by 
* At first he created only 25 Knights, three years after he added 6 more; Charles V augmented the number to 51; but Philip TWO, & III. created as many as they pleased, without observing any certain number.  Philip the Good Duke of Burgundy, in the year 
† Some say 1429.  430. I shall give you a brief account of three or four different Opinions I have observed concerning the institution of that Order. Some think it was occasioned by that Prince's 
‡ He was thrice married, first, with Michelle of France, Fifth Daughter of Charles VI; secondly, with Bonne of Artois, Sister of the Count d'Eu; and thirdly, with Isabel of Portugal.  falling in love with a Maid of mean Parentage 
* Others writ, That the Girl was red-haird, and that one day when the Duke went to visit her he found a Lock of her Hair on her Toilette, which he gathered up very carefully, and preserved as a precious Treasure. They add, That his Courtiers having taken the liberty to break some Jests on this occasion, the fond Prince took a Resolution to institute an Order of Knighthood by the Title of the Golden Fleece, in honour to the Lock of red Hair. Davity says, That several Authors are of Opinion, that this Order took its original from the Religious Society called the Thebean Order. , whose Gown was furred with Lambskin. Others relate, that esteeming the extraordinary Plenty and Abundance of the year of his Marriage with Elizabeth or Isabel of Portugal to be a presage of Future Happiness; and observing that the initial Letters of the five Months of Harvest, July, August, September, October, and November, make the word JASON, he instituted this Order with allusion to the celebrated Fleece of Colchis. There are others, who pretend that it was instituted upon occasion of a certain extraordinary Adventure that happened to that Prince; which had some relation to the Story of Gideon's Fleece. 
Judges 6. 37, etc.  And in the last place, some are of Opinion, that the great Increase of his Revenue, by the importation of the English Wool, gave occasion to the institution of this Order.  
I observed at Brussels, either in St. Gudula's Church or the Townhouse, an ancient piece of Tapestry adorned with the Arms of Burgundy, 
St. Andrew's Cross.  and with a representation of the Story of Gideon's Fleece, which probably may have some relation to the Badge of this Order. I remember also that 
† Oliver de la March had the honour to serve Philip the Good, and during the space of Fifty years, had several considerable Employments in the House of Burgundy.  la March relates, in his Memoirs, That at the magnificent Entertainment called The Feast of Vows, which Philip the Good 
‖ Febr. 17. 1453.  made in the City of Lisle, among several other Divertisements, Sports and Comedies, with which the Solemnity was accompanied, the whole History of Jason, and the Conquest of the Golden Fleece, was represented. And the same Author makes frequent mention of the Mystery of the Fleece of Burgundy, both which Observations laid together, seem to confirm the second Opinion; and after all, who knows whether Duke Philip had not all the four abovementioned Considerations in his view when he instituted this Order?  
You know that the King of Spain, as Duke of Burgundy, is Sovereign of the Order of the Golden Fleece.  
Departing from Bruges, we embarked again on the Canal, and in three hours arrived at the little City of Ostend. 
OSTEND  The Fortifications are prettily contrived, but the great Sluices by which it receives Water from the Sea, and communicates the same to Bruges, is the most remarkable thing about it.  
'Tis almost impossible to speak of Ostend without calling to mind the most famous 
* The Siege was begun by Archduke Albert, July 5. 1601, and Ambrose Spinola entered the place Sept. 20. 1604.  Siege that the World perhaps ever saw. This little Fisher-town, meanly fortified, sustained the shock of a potent Enemy for almost three years and three months, during which time it received above Three hundred thousand Canonshot, oftentimes under the covert of heaps of dead Bodies, with which the besieged repaired the Breaches, lost above 
† Seventy thousand One hundred and twenty four.  Seventy thousand Men, and killed a 
‖ Seventy two thousand and Nine hundred.  greater number of its Enemies; and after all, this little mass of Ruins, overpowered by the numbers of the Besiegers, and unable to hold out longer against so unequal a Force, extorted Articles of Capitulation from its Enemies.  
There is a Canal between Ostend and Newport, but for the conveniency of a quicker passage, we chose rather to hire a Coach.  

NEWPORT.  I have nothing to add concerning the little City of Newport, but that it puts an end to our Peregrination, on this side of your British Seas.  
By the good Providence of God, our little Voyage has been in all respects happy, and the Pleasure that attended it was never interrupted by Sickness or any Accident. And in particular I must own myself extremely obliged to our common Friend M. S. Waring, whose good Company we enjoyed all the way. He is Master of many excellent Qualifications, which charm all those that converse with him.  
To conclude, whatever Satisfaction may be found in Travelling, I can assure you, that 'tis always a very sensible Pleasure to return home. I am,  
SIR, Your &c. Newport, Ostob. 3. 1688.   
The End of the Second Volume.   

INSTRUCTIONS TO A Traveller.  
IT must be acknowledged, 
See Letter XXXIII.  that Travelling is attended with Pleasure and Profit, but 'tis no less certain that these Advantages cannot be obtained without Pain. The design of these Memoirs is, to instruct those who shall afterwards undertake the Voyage described in the preceding Letters, to improve the two first, and lessen the other. I do not intent to discourse of Travels in general, but only to run over the several Steps that we made in our Voyage, and to give those who shall follow the same Road, or any part of it, such Instructions as I know to be most useful for 'em.  
The Rate of Places in the Stage-Coaches and Boats in Holland is fixed, so that there is no occasion for contending about the Price, and therefore it would be needless to give a particular account of the Rates, which are various, according to the difference of Places and Distances.  
The Carriage of Baggage must be paid apart when a Passenger has more than a single Portmantle. 'Tis in vain to contend with the Dutch Boat-men, and you must either agree on a price for the carriage of your Goods before you put 'em in the Boat, or resolve to give 'em whatever they please to ask.  
In some places, as at Rotterdam, Delft, and the Hague, the Boats go off every half-hour; in other parts they observe different times of setting out, but none of 'em ever stay a moment after the Clock strikes the appointed time of their departure. Those whose Affairs require greater haste, may gain a day by travelling in the night; and they who embark in the Evening at the Hague, arrive next Morning at Amsterdam.  
At the usual places of changing the Boats, you always find Men with Wheelbarrows to carry your Baggage; their Rates are so small that they deserve not to be mentioned.  
Our first design being to visit Germany in our return, and afterwards to repass through Holland, we resolved at the same time to see North Holland, but we came another way, and had not time to put that design in execution. While one is at Amsterdam, he ought by no means to neglect that little Voyage, 'tis but a Walk of four days, and the Habits, extraordinary neatness, and other Customs of the Inhabitants of that Province, are very singular.  
In Germany you seldom meet with the conveniency of regulated Passages; we hired a Coach entirely for ourselves from Vtrecht to Arnheim for 
* About 1 l. 5 s. and 4 d.  twelve Francs and sixteen Sous. I will not undertake to reduce the Money to our way of reckoning, the Traveller will find what the value of it is, when he comes to the places where 'tis current.  
Those who travel alone may take notice, that the Places in the same Coach are of different prices; but, as I intimated before, all the Rates are fixed.  
It cost us nothing for the carriage of our Trunks, because we were Masters of the whole Coach, but otherwise we must have paid for 'em by weight.  
We hired another Coach from Arnheim to Wesel for 
* Eighteen Shillings.  nine Francs; the Rates vary according to the Season of the year.  
From Wesel to Cologn we paid 
† Nine Shillings.  four Francs and a half each; for thirty Livres we might have had a Coach, which would have carried us straight from Arnheim to Cologn, but we were desirous to see Wesel.  
At Colen there are all sorts of Passages to go from thence to Mentz (for I speak only of our Road) but all the Land-Carriages are extremely dear; for since they have no constant times of setting out, the Passenger must also pay for the Return, and besides, the Ways are hilly and uneasy: So that having no urgent Affairs to hasten us, we resolved, for several Reasons, to go by Water. In the great Boats, which are drawn by Horses, the common Rate is a crown a piece, a little over or under; and if the Passengers please, they may land at any Village by the way to dine or sup. But not to retard the passage, which seems tedious enough otherwise to those who are not furnished with a good stock of Patience, the best way is, to order the provisions for dinner to be brought in the morning.  
From Mentz 'tis but one easy day's passage on the Mein to Frankfort, by the ordinary Boat, which is large and commodious, and sets out every day. The Rates of the places are fixed, and the Traveller needs not desire a more convenient passage.  
We meet so often with different sorts of Money in Germany, that 'tis impossible to avoid losing by 'em. The best way is to make sufficient provision in Holland, of Gold Ducats, and Silver Money of the Emperor's Coin, which are current every where, without any abatement, but something must be allowed for the exchange of those pieces. At Amsterdam, for example, you must give two or three pence more than the real value of a Ducat, and proportionably as much for the Pistoles. But the Exchange of Money rises or falls, according to the various Junctures of Trade and of the Times.  
When Travellers meet together they may exchange the Money they have about 'em; but we must not depend on such accidental Rencounters, which happen seldom.  
The Spanish Pistols of full weight are the best Pieces that can be carried to Italy.  
The Bankers of Amsterdam directed us to the Neuville's their Correspondents at Frankfort, who are very honest persons, and used us very kindly.  
Traveller's ought always to procure Letters of Recommendations for some Persons of note in those Towns where they intent to stay any considerable time, not only from their own Country, but also from the places where they stop on the Road; for, if any Accident should happen, they will be glad to know where they may find Assistance; and besides, the Persons to whom they are recommended may be of use to show 'em the Rarities of the Country, to introduce 'em into Acquaintance, and to give 'em necessary Instructions. The Recommendations of Bankers are none of the least effectual.  
Neither must a Traveller forget to take a Passport from the Prince or State whose Subject he is: 'Tis true, these Passports are not necessary, but they may be useful, and we were asked for ours in some parts of Italy; besides, such a Pass, on some occasions, procures Respect to a Stranger, and an Accident may happen which may make a man repent his neglect of this piece of Caution.  
'Tis better to undergo the Loss that is a necessary consequence of Bills of Exchange, than to be troubled with carrying about a Load of Money. And besides, one ought not to take more Money along with him, than will be just sufficient to defray his Charge from one place to another; for there are a hundred Accidents which may make it very inconvenient for a Stranger to have his Pockets full of superfluous Cash.  
'Tis a general Rule, 
— Cantabit vacuus coram latrone viator.  That a Traveller ought never to make a discovery of his Jewels or Money, especially in the Inns; for almost all the Robberies and Murders that are committed on Passengers are occasioned by their Imprudence in betraying themselves.  
At Francfort we bought some Boxes of Treacle from Dr. Peter's, and besides, we had furnished ourselves with some such Provisions at London. Health is so necessary a Companion to a Traveller, that he cannot be too careful of its preservation.  
If we had resolved to go straight from Frankfort to Heidelberg, we might have been accommodated, as we were informed by our Friends, with the choice of two or three sorts of passage; but since we travelled only to see the Country, we hired a Coach with six Horses, to carry us and our Baggage whithersoever we pleased, for three Crowns a day, paying the same rate for the return: So that if we had gone directly from Francfort, the charge of our Coach would have amounted to six Crowns a day; but after we had spent four days in traversing the Country, we left the Coach at Heydelberg, reckoning only two days for its return to Francfort.  
We were forced to make another bargain from Heydelberg to Nuremberg, which, in that Season of the year, is six days Journey: We gave, as I remember, thirty Crowns for the carriage of our Persons and Goods, and twenty Crowns for a whole Coach from Nuremberg to Augspurg, on condition that we should take Ingolstat and Newburg in our way. They who go by Dunavert make a whole day's Journey less; but we were resolved to see Ingolstat, which is the strongest place in Bavaria.  
There are Stage Coaches that go from Augspurg to Venice, or at least to Mestré near Venice, and the Rates of the Places are regulated, but they do not pass by Munick, which we were desirous to see for several Reasons; and besides, the Country is extremely rough for Coaches, they are very apt to overturn, and the Passengers are often constrained to alight, by reason of the continual ascending and descending among the Mountains.  
And therefore we agreed to be carried on Horseback, and our Charges born from Augspurg to Venice, by the way of Munick, Inspruck, Bolsana, Trent, Verona, Vincenza, and Milan, at the rate of twenty Ducats of Gold a head. We made this Bargain by the Advice of an interested person, but we were informed afterwards that we paid too dear by a fifth or sixth part. I thought fit to acquaint the Reader with this passage, not that he may imitate our Example, but that he may draw some Advantage even from our Blunders.  
We were desirous to arrive at Venice before the Carnaval, which was not necessary, for 'tis sufficient to see the three last weeks of it, especially for those who intent not to spend more time in travelling than we determined to do.  
I advise those who may happen to be at Augspurg at the same season when we were there, and design also to be at Venice during the Carnaval, to make a particular Bargain for Munick; and from thence to go to Ratisbon, where they may embark on the Danube for Vienna, and return to Venice by Saltzburg and Palma nuova; and even they may make a little excursion from Vienna to Presburg, that they may be able to say they have seen some part of Hungary, and after all, come in time enough to Venice. They may afterwards take occasion to see Milan, Verona, and Vincenza.  
Those who are of a tender Constitution will do well to provide good Furs at Munick, before they engage in the Alps, if they are to pass 'em in the Winter; for besides, that they will be in a manner overwhelmed with Snow; the Cold is very piercing among those Mountains.  
When one is at Inspruck, he ought by all means to visit the Cabinet of Curiosities and other Rarities in the Castle of Amras, for which little Journey he may hire a Coach of the Innkeepers. And that he may have time to satisfy his Curiosity, he ought so to contrive his Journey, that he may have half a day to spend in this place.  
At Stertzlinghen, between Inspruck and Trent, 'tis convenient to leave the direct Road which leads to Trent, by the Castle of Tirol, and to take that of Brixen. 'Tis true, the first way is shorter, but 'tis dangerous by reason of its Precipices: and for this Reason the Guide ought to have timely warning to take the Road of Brixen.  
There are some good Inns at Venice, such as the Lovure, the White Lion, and the French Arms; but when one intends to spend some months in that City, the best way is, to hire a furnished House. There are always some Apartments to be let in the Procuraties, which, as it is the dearest, is also the finest part of the Town. At the Lovure you are entertained for eight Livres a day, and the White Lion and French Arms are somewhat cheaper, but you must always remember to make your Bargain for every thing before you go into the House, to avoid after-Debates.  
For seven or eight Livres a day, you may hire one of the prettiest Gondola's with two Rowers, whom you may put into Livery, and employ in what service you please. The ordinary Gondola's cost fifteen pence an hour. Twenty pence make a Livre, and a Spanish Pistol contains nine and twenty Livres.  
I have already spoken of the Ridotti at Venice, which are Gaming-houses or Academies of Basset, where the Noblemen cut, and Fools lose their Money.  
Here we received the first Letters we had from England. A Traveller ought always to acquaint his Correspondents where he intends to stay for some time, that they may send their Letters thither, which for the greater Security may be directed to some Banker. 'Tis true, a Man may make a shift to live without News, but Bills of Exchange are absolutely necessary in a strange Country, and great care must be taken to prevent their miscarrying; the surest way is, to get a Letter of Credit, which is current every where.  
Travellers are not stopped on the account of Customs or Imports, either in Holland or Germany, and rarely in the State of Venice. The Toll-gatherers saw us enter into the Laguna's without speaking one word to us, tho' we had a considerable quantity of Baggage, but in other parts of Italy the Tolls are very frequent and troublesome. Nevertheless you may usually buy your peace at the rate of a few 
* A Piece of Money about the value of 6 d.  Julio's; and we never met with any of those Officers so obstinate as to open our Portmantles, save only at our arrival at Rome, at Pisa, as we came from Leghorn, and at our departure from Naples and Bergamo.  
It froze, without intermission all the while we stayed at Venice; and, generally speaking, we found the Winter very sharp all over Italy. Most People are persuaded that there is hardly any Winter at all in this Country, and therefore they usually choose that Season to travel thither: But I can produce several Reasons against the Winter, and I know no more than one against the Summer.  
In Winter the Ways are uneasy and dangerous, especially in the Mountains, by reason of the Snow and Ice. The Days are short; a Traveller comes late to his Lodging, and is often forced to prevent the Sun in the Morning; besides, the Country looks dismally, Nature is in a manner half dead, and neither Fruits nor Flowers are any where to be seen.  
The Summer corrects all those Inconveniencies; 'tis hot, I confess, but that trouble may be easily avoided, by reposing during the heat of the Day: and besides, the coldness of the Winter does sufficiently counterbalance the heat of the Summer.  
At Venice we hired a Boat to Milan for Four and twenty Livres; but we might have taken places in the common Boat for two Livres apiece.  
At Milan we found by chance a Coach which had brought some Passengers from Loretto, and stayed for Company to return thither. We hired the whole Coach for Fourteen Spanish Pistols, on condition that we should also have the use of a Saddle-horse, that we might stay three days at such places on the Road as we should think fit to choose, that the Master of the Coach should pay for our passage over Bridges and Rivers, etc. and carry us by the way of Ravenna.  
The Charge of the passage over Rivers, etc. is not very considerable, but we found it very convenient to ease ourselves of the trouble of it.  
'Tis always worth the while to make enquiry whether there are any Coaches, or what other sort of passage the Traveller intends to make use of, returning to the place whither he designs to go, for by so doing he may save Money considerably.  
Some embark for Ancona at Rimini, and even at Venice, coasting along the Shore of the Gulf. But when the passage by Land is easy, a curious and judicious Traveller will never choose to go by Sea.  
In many parts of Italy you may have Stage-Horses or Calashes, the Rates of which are fixed. The greatest conveniency of this way of travelling is, that you may stop where you please, and change your Horses or Calash at every Stage, without being obliged to pay for their return; and besides, you may take what time you please to satisfy your Curiosity.  
There is conveniency for two Persons in a Calash, which I prefer before Horses for several Reasons; in Summer you have the advantage of the Shade; they are warmer in Winter, and more commodious in all respects; besides, the Passengers may have their Portmantles tied behind, tho' they should amount to 200 weight for each Calash; but 'tis convenient to look to 'em from time to time, or to make a Servant follow the Calash on Horseback, to take care of the Baggage.  
The tying and untying of the Portmantles at every Stage is a necessary piece of trouble that attends this way of travelling; and therefore the best way for those who have a long Journey to make, and intent not to stop on the Road, or only to make a short stay, is, to agree with one Person for the whole Passage; and they may easily calculate whether the Charge will amount to more than if they should change their Horses or Calashes at every Stage.  
Ferrara was the first place where they took our Pistols from us; they restored 'em at the Gate by which we went out, but we were forced to give 'em a little Money.  
When you come over against Catholica, between Rimini and Pesaro, it will not be improper to leave the direct way to see the little Town and Republic of St. Marin, which is ten or twelve miles further, on the right hand; for which Reason, instead of agreeing with one man for the whole Passage between Milan and Loretto, you may make your Bargain to be carried only to Rimini, where you may take Horses for St. Marin, and return the same way back to Rimini, to continue your Journey. But if you are not sure to find a new passage at Rimini for Loretto, you may oblige the Person with whom you agree for your passage to carry you by the way of St. Marin.  
At Loretto, being eight Persons in company, we gave twelve Italian Pistols for three Calashes and two Horses, on condition that we should arrive at Rome on the sixth day. The Hurry of Loretto will not give a Traveller time to take exact measures for the rest of his Journey, and therefore he must depend almost wholly on his Guide, for the choice of the Way.  
You ought not to forget, when you are at Terni, to visit the Cascade or Waterfal del Marmore, which is but three miles distant from the Town, tho' those who let Horses thither will tell you 'tis five miles, that they may cheat you of a little Money. You must not give above two Julio's and a half, or three at most, for each Horse, and you may satisfy the Man who brought you from Loretto for the half-day you make him wait at Terni, if you did not agree to the contrary at Loretto.  
But, to avoid all this trouble, you may comprehend that little Journey in the Bargain you make at Loretto; and, I advise you also to oblige your Guide to carry you to Mount-Aeolus, near the little Town of Cesis, eight miles from Terni. Here you may have the pleasure of viewing a very singular Rarity; for the Holes and Crevices in this Mountain send forth perpetually, but especially in Summer, certain cool Briezes, which the Inhabitants of Cesis bring in Pipes to their Cellars and Houses, to cool their Wines and themselves also during the great Heats 
* See Kircher's Mundus Subterraneus. ; and besides, they have this Advantage, that they may open the Pipes more or less, and let out what quantity of Coolness they please.  
As you draw near to Narni, you may turn aside to the right hand, to see the old Bridge mentioned in one of my Letters, it will not cost you above half an hour to satisfy your Curiosity.  
At our first arrival at Rome we lodged in an Inn, but after our return from Naples we took a Palazzo, which in English is no more than a furnished House, where we were very honourably accommodated for 
* About 6 l. Sterling.  twenty Piastres by the month,  
When a Stranger arrives at Rome, he is immediately pestered with a multitude of Lackeys who come to offer their Service to him, but they are generally a company of treacherous Rogues, who are by no means to be trusted.  
There are two things which a Traveller ought principally to observe, with respect to Servants, when he resolves to increase his Train. In the first place, he ought to take such as are of the Country, and even of the place where he resides at present, for they are acquainted with the Inhabitants and their Customs, speak the Language, and are under an Obligation to perform their Duty better than if they were Strangers. Secondly, he ought to receive 'em on the Recommendation of a Friend who knows 'em particularly, and can assure him of their Fidelity; and besides, he may carry some spare Coats along with him, that he may put his whole Retinue in the same Livery.  
The usual Wages for Footmen or Staffieri, as they are called at Rome, is two and a half or three Julio's by the day; and Servants for the Kitchen may be hired at the same rate.  
We gave fourteen Pistols by the month for a handsome Coach with two good Horses, tho' in another Season we might have had one for twelve, and even sometimes for ten; but the greatest concourse of Strangers at Rome is in the time of Lent, and at Easter, which enhances the price of many Conveniencies.  
They who are at Rome in Lent may easily obtain a permission to eat Flesh; and even the Innkeepers on the Roads will accommodate you with it, but you must not ask it too openly, lest you expose 'em to Censure. I have seen some Passengers quickly satisfy the Scruples of their Landlords, by threatening to go to another Lodging. But generally the lean days deserve that name with a witness almost every where in Italy, and 'tis hardly possible for a Stranger to accustom himself to those Severities.  
A Traveller who intends not to stay above two or three months at Rome should immediately after his arrival agree with a skilful Antiquary, and fix certain times to visit with him the principal Rarities of that famous City; for tho' several Authors have attempted to describe 'em, a curious and inquisitive Person, who examines things upon the spot, and with his own Eyes, will always be able to make some new Observations: and therefore, without consulting Books, unless as Helps and Guides, he ought to take a particular view of every thing that is remarkable, and set down all that he sees in his Journal; for it happens not unfrequently, that a Traveller finds a very considerable difference between his own Observations and the Descriptions of others, when he compares 'em together. And to make his Industry the more successful, he ought always to carry a Note book about him, and every Evening to examine and transcribe the Observations of the Day; nor will it be improper to use this method every where else, as well as at Rome.  
To ease my Memory, and that I might be able on all occasions to gratify my Curiosity by an exact enquiry into what was most remarkable in every City and Country through which we passed, I drew up the following Catalogue, which always furnished me with a sufficient number of useful Questions.  

Climate.  
Government.  
Forces.  
Arsenals.  
Garrisons.  
Fortifications.  
Castles.  
Citadels.  
Largeness of Towns.  
Religion.  
Language.  
Coins.  
Trade.  
Manufactures.  
Riches.  
Academies.  
Universities.  
Bishoprics.  
Antiquities.  
Monuments.  
Libraries.  
Cabinets of Rarities.  
Learned Men.  
Skilful Artificers.  
Painting.  
Sculptures.  
Architecture.  
Palaces.  
Houses of Pleasure.  
Confines.  
Prospects.  
Passes.  
Entries.  
Bridges:  
Rivers.  
Woods.  
Hills.  
Towns and Villages.  
Customs.  
Fashions of Clothes.  
Privileges.  
Adventures.  
Late Accidents.  
Natural or artificial Rarities.  
Soil.  
Plants.  
Fruits.  
Animals, etc.   
D. Pietro Rosini was our Antiquary at Rome; he is well acquainted with Medals, and trades in 'em. I think we gave him three Pistols a month.  
'Tis convenient for a Traveller to view the Curiosities of Rome in the company of other Strangers; for so his Pleasure is increased by the converse of his Companions, and many Eyes see better than one.  
No man ought to undertake a Voyage without making Provision of several sorts of Measures, Geographical Charts, a Watch, Prospective-Glasses, a Mariner's Compass, and Quadrant. And as far as he is able he ought to take the dimensions of every thing; in order to which he may easily carry along with him a Cane divided into several Measures. And besides, I took care to furnish myself with a piece of Packthread well twined and waxed, fifty fathom long, and divided into feet by Knots, by the help of which I could in a moment measure long Distances, the height of Towers, bigness of Pillars, and what else I thought fit to observe.  
A Roman Palm, or Span and a half, make just thirteen Inches English measure; the Roman Foot is shorter by six lines than that of England. Eight Roman Feet make a Roman Can; and a 
* Brass or Fathom of Milan makes 22 inches and a half, English measure.  Brass or Fathom of Florence is equal to two Roman Feet.  
A Traveller finds so much Pleasure in consulting the Maps of the Countries through which he passes, that he can hardly forbear wishing he had complete Sets of all that are extant; there are three things which ought to be observed on this occasion by those who design to travel; first, they ought not to content themselves with resolving to buy Maps in the Countries whither they intent to go, but make sufficient provision of 'em before their departure, and even take some of all Authors, for we enquired for 'em in vain in several great Cities; and it happens not unfrequently that the least esteemed are upon trial found to be the most exact. Secondly, their Maps ought to be pasted on Linen or Canvas, and rolled up on Sticks. And in the last place, every judicious and curious Traveller ought to note down all the Errors he perceives in 'em, and communicate his Observations to those who make 'em; for, if every ingenious Person would endeavour to promote so useful a Design, in a little time we should have no reason to complain of the Uncorrectness of Maps.  
The Prospective-Glasses ought to be of several sorts, and adapted both to great and small Distances; they are useful for those who are desirous to take a distinct view of Inscriptions, Pictures, Statues, Ornaments of Architecture, etc.  
To return to Rome; the Curious may furnish themselves with Prints of all its Antiquities, and other remarkable things that are to be seen in and about the City, of almost all which they may have complete Sets for a hundred Pistols.  
Not only in that City, but every where else, 'tis convenient for a Traveller to make a Collection of such Prints, which will be of use to refresh and rectify his Ideas of the places he has seen; and they who are most curious may carry a skilful Designer along with 'em.  
I thought to have subjoined a Catalogue of about Three hundred of the finest Pictures we saw at Rome, but I'm informed there is an entire Collection of all those Pieces already communicated to the Public.  
The Roman Calashes are very pretty, and fit for taking the Air in a level Country, but not at all convenient for travelling; in the mean time, since several persons are very fond of 'em, I advise those who design to make use of 'em for a Journey, to take care that they be bound more securely with Iron than usually they are; to choose such as are covered with Waxed Cloth rather than with Leather, which grows hard, cracks, and is too heavy; and to place the Body of the Calash immediately upon the Shafts, instead of hanging it, for so it will be less apt to overturn.  
But the best way is, not to meddle with these Calashes, which occasion so much trouble to those who use 'em; for they must buy Horses, and hire new Servants, both which are subject to a thousand Accidents, and so many different Cares spoil the pleasure of Travelling. And even sometimes the Grooms prick the Horse's Feet in shoeing 'em, when Gentlemen travel on their own Horses, to oblige 'em either to buy others, or stay till their own are recovered.  
After all, Money makes every thing easy, and there is no difficulty so great that may not be easily surmounted by those whose Pockets are well lined with Gold.  
They who happen to be at Rome at the time of the arrival of the Quails, will do well to leave the City for two or three days, and take a Journey towards Ostia or Prattica on the Sea-coast.  
The Journey from Rome to Naples is usually performed thus: The Travellers hire either Horses or Calashes, or both together, that they may have the advantage of easing themselves by change. And the Person with whom they agree at Rome, every Passenger paying Fifteen Piastres, obliges himself to give 'em eight Meals in their Journey outwards, and as many in their return, to stay five whole days at Naples, to pay the Boat at Cajeta, to lend his Horses one day to Vesuvius, and another to Puzzolo, both which are comprehended in the five to be spent at Naples. Thus the whole Journey is performed in fifteen days, on the last of which they return to Rome.  
This way of Travelling is not altogether inconvenient for those who are obliged to make haste, but they who are Masters of their own time ought to take other measures; for a curious Person may find Employment enough at Naples for twelve or fifteen days at least, and 'tis almost impossible in the narrow space of one day to take a view of all the Antiquities and other Rarities that are to be seen about Puzzolo,  
And therefore they who have leisure to satisfy their Curiosity, may make use of the Procaccio or ordinary Post from Rome to Naples, where they may stay as long as they please, and return by the same way. I could not hear of any Stage-Passages, or such as may be changed from time to time, in this part of the Country.  
They who choose the first method of performing this Journey are forced to return by the same way they came, which cannot but be extremely unpleasant to an inquisitive Traveller; but when one is at Naples, without any Obligation to make use of a particular kind of Passage, he may in his return leave the direct Road, and travel further within the Land on the right side of it, hiring Horses from Town to Town. I know some Persons who took this way, but 'tis not frequented, and therefore I only give this Advice to those who are willing to purchase the Satisfaction of their Curiosity, and the Pleasure of Novelty, at the expense of a little Trouble.  
At Naples we lodged at the Golden Dove, where we paid ten Carlins each. The Dove and Three Kings are the only good Inns in this City. Our Coach cost us no more than twelve Carlins a day. At Rome you pay but seven Julio's in the best Inns, and if you make a Bargain for a considerable time, they will content themselves with six.  
They trade much here in Silk Stockings, Vests, and other Worsted Clothes, which are not comparable to those that are made at London. The Merchants of this place over-rate their Commodities extremely.  
I never heard that there was any Catalogue made of the chief Pictures that are to be seen at Naples; and therefore, besides those mentioned in my Letters, I shall name some others for the conveniency of young Painters, who travel into Italy. I speak only of such as are in Churches, Convents, or other places, where a Traveller may be easily admitted to take a view of 'em.  
The Virgin, by Raphael; in the Chapel of the Family of Dolce, at the Church of St. Dominic major.  
The Annunciation, by Michael Angelo; at St. Mary's of Health.  
Another Annunciation, by Titian; in the Duke of Acerenza's Chapel at St. Dominic major.  
Queen Joan I, by Giotto; at the Incoronata.  
The Refectory of Mount Olivet, by George Vasari.  
The Nativity, and St. Agnes, by Pomarancio; at St. Philip de Neri's.  
St. Thomas, at the Cathedral; and St. Michael, on the great Altar of S. Angelica nido, by Mark of Sienna.  
Several Pieces, by Hannibal Carache; at St. Ann's of the Lombard's.  
St. Peter, by Caravagio; at St. Mary's of the Graces.  
The Four Angels, in the Chapel of Treasure, at the Cathedral; and several Pieces at St. Ann's of the Lombard's, by Dominichini.  
St. Francis, at St. Philip de Neri's; an Annunciation, and the Cardinal Virtues, at the Church of the Holy Apostles; by Guido.  
Several Pieces at St. Ann's of the Lombard's, and the Roof of the Holy Apostles; by Cavaliero Lanfranco.  
St. Alexis, at St. Philip de Neri's; by Pietro da Cortona.  
The Trinity, at the Church of the Trinity; St. Bennet and other Pieces, at St. Severin's of the Benedictins; another St. Bennet, and St. Thomas Aquinas at Mount-Olivet, and several Pictures at St. Ann's of the Lombard's; by S. Feed.  
The Virtues and Sciences, at St. Thomas Aquinas', in the Cloister; by N. Vaccaro.  
The Pictures in fresco, at St. Severin's; by Zingaro.  
The Magis, at Mount-Olivet; by Cottignuola:  
The Assumption of the Virgin, at the Cathedral; by Andrew of Salerno.  
The Roof of St. Paul's; by Cavalier Massimo.  
St. John, in the middle of the fretting at the Church of St. John Carbonara; by Rosso.  
St. Michael, at St. Dominic major; and the Ascension at St. Ligerio's; by Beru Lama.  
St. John, and St. Luke, at St. Clara's; by Sylvestro Buono.  
Christ's Marriage with St. Katherine of Sienna, at S. Pietro à Majella; by Criscuolo.  
A Picture of St. Lewis, at St. Lawrence's of the minor Friars of St. Francis; by Simon Cremonese.  
St. Jerom, at St. Philip de Neri's; by Gessi.  
The Mosaic Work, at the Holy Apostles; by J. Bapt. Calandra.  
The Adoration of the Magis, at St. Philip de Neri's; and several Pictures in fresco, at St. Severin's of the Benedictins; by Bellissario.  
The inside of the Dome of the Church of the Holy Apostles; by Cavalier Benacschi.  
Several Pieces in the Viceroy's Palace, and at St. Philip de Neri's; by Jordan a famous Painter, now living.  
They who love Architecture and Sculpture may observe  
The great Altar at the Annunciata; the Tabernacle and Altar at St. Mary's of the Graces.  
The magnificent Tombs of Andrew Bonifacia, and J. Battista Cicaro, at St. Severin's of the Benedictins; the finest Organs in Naples are in this Church.  
The great Altar and Tabernacle at the Barefoot Carmelites.  
The Tomb of Ladislaus (tho' Gothic), the Chapel of the Marquesses of Vico, the Statues of St. James and St. George the Martyr, and the Crucifix in the Chapel of the Seripando's at St. John à Carbonara.  
The Altars of St. Ignatius and St. Francis Xavier, at St. Mary's of Constantinople.  
The Statue of St. Sebastian, at S. Pietro à Majella; by John de Nola.  
The Cardinal Filamarino's Chapel, that of the Annunciation, and the Tabernacle, at the Church of the Holy Apostles.  
The Baptismal Fonts, the Gate, and the Chapel of the Treasure, at the Cathedral.  
The great Altar, and the Chapel of J. Camill. Cacace, at St. Lawrence's:  
The great Altar, and the Altar of St. Teresa's Chapel, at St: Mary's the Mother of God.  
The great Chapel of St. Mary's of the Carmelites.  
The magnificent Chapel of St. James, at S. Maria nuova.  
The Tomb of Don Pedro de Toledo, at St. James' of the Spaniards.  
The Chapel of the Princes, of St. Agatha, and a Statue of the Virgin at St. Paul's.  
All these Pieces are extremely beautiful and magnificent; and a Traveller ought also to visit the Treasuries and Vestries.  
They who stay some time at Naples may also take a Journey to Salerno.  
And since they will have occasion to make several Experiments at Grotta di Cane, they ought to take exact notice of the space of time in which the Animal dies; for the Origin of the Nerves being seized and stuffed by the Vapour, there may happen a sort of Apoplexy, which may last longer than the spectators commonly imagine, and produce only a seeming Death.  
The common Opinion is, that the Water of the neighbouring Lake is endowed with a peculiar Virtue to reanimate the Dog, and one might easily cause some other Water to be brought, to try whether it would not produce the same effect. And besides, the Dog, or other Animal, might be laid on the Ground without the Grotto, to see whether he would not recover without the help of Water. To try all these Experiments, several Dogs must be brought thither from Naples.  
Pliny citys an Author, who relates, That those Animals whose Genitals are cut off, receive no Injury by being put into the Grotto. This might be easily examined, and many other Experiments made by those who are upon the spot.  
Going from Rome to Naples you are troubled with no Toll-gatherers, but in your return you are perpetually plagued with 'em, during the first half-day's Journey; for they imagine that all Travellers are laded with Silk-stockings, or some other Commodities of Naples. 'Tis true, they searched none of our Company, but in two or three several places they opened some of our Portmantles. The best way to make this Journey pleasant, is to travel with a small Equipage.  
The usual Road passes through new Capua, but you ought to agree with the Guide to carry you to the old City, either in going or returning.  
You may also make it a part of your Bargain, That if the Sea be so rough that you cannot without danger pass the Gulf between Mola and Cajeta, you may be furnished with Horses to take a compass about the Gulf, which you may do in a little time. The Essence of Oranges made at Cajeta is said to be the best in Italy, 'tis only to be had in the Convents.  
At the Gate of Terracina 'tis usual to pass by the foot of the Mountain towards the Sea, where the way is easy; but those who have a mind to see the Town, may ascend straight to it.  
Between Piperno and Terracina you may see the Abbey of Fossa-nuova, about two or three hundred paces from the Road, at the Entry into the Wood of Piperno. Those who are desirous to see the footsteps of the Mule mentioned in one of my Letters, may quickly satisfy their Curiosity.  
We agreed at Rome to be carried in Calashes, and to have all our Charges born, during the space of eleven days, from Rome to Florence, by the way of Viterbo, Sienna, Leghorn, Pisa, Lucca, and Pistoya, for six Italian Pistols a piece, which was somewhat too dear a Rate, tho', 'tis true, Calashes were very scarce at Rome when we left it, and sometimes there is hardly one to be found, especially when the Brothers of the Frock come abroad in whole Troops to relieve their Garrisons. 'Tis six days Journey from Rome to Leghorn, from thence to Florence two days and a half, and as much more we spent in several places by the way.  
They who design to stay somewhere in Italy, to learn the Language, aught to make choice of Sienna for their place of residence; the Florentin Pronunciation is accompanied with a harshness that both offends the Ear, and is troublesome to the Throat; and at Rome they are confounded by the multitudes of Strangers, with whom they are daily obliged to converse; but at Sienna you may find what the Proverb requires, The Tuscan Language, and a Roman Mouth. Or you may apply yourself to a Master of the Languages in those Cities, where you intent to stay some months.  
At Florence they sell all sorts of excellent Perfumes, Essences, Balsams, Pomades, etc. but the best are to be had of the Monks of St. Mark.  
The Litters usually cost three Pistols and a half from Florence to Bologna, and the Horses eighteen, twenty, or two and twenty Julio's, according to the Season. The Way is too rough for Calashes, tho' 'tis not altogether impassable by 'em.  
A Traveller ought never to defer enquiring about a Passage till he is just ready to departed, if he would not be forced to submit to the most unreasonable Terms.  
At Florence and Bologna you may have the use of a Gentleman's Coach for six Julio's a day, and any Boy at the Inn will easily find one for you.  
We crossed the whole Country of Lombardy in Calashes, which are changed at every Stage. From Bergamo to Milan we made a particular bargain, but the Inundation of the River Adda forced us to send back our Calashes. 'Tis probable the Postilions knew well enough before they set out, that they could not pass further, for this is one of their ordinary Tricks. They seem to be surprised when the Waters stop 'em, and, when they can, make the Passengers pay the full price that was agreed on for the whole Journey, under pretext that they cannot be justly blamed for such an unforeseen Accident. 'Tis true, we might have obliged our Calashes to take a compass and carry us to Milan, but then we ourselves must have had the deepest share in the trouble; and therefore we chose rather to embark on the Canal at Canonica, and divide the loss with the Postilions.  
I know some persons, who having agreed for Calashes from Turin to Florence, were obliged to take Horses at Bologna, by reason of the falling of the Snow on the Appennins, and after much wrangling were forced to pay for the whole Journey.  
These Tricks ought to teach Traveller's Circumspection in concluding of Bargains, and among other things, to make an express Proviso that if any unexpected Accident shall hinder the continuation of their Journey, they shall not be obliged to pay, but in proportion to the distance of the place where they shall happen to be stopped. And in the general, they ought to put all their Agreements in Writing, that are of any importance.  
Between Pavia and Milan you must turn a little out of the way, and spend an hour in visiting the Monastery of the Chartreux Friars.  
You must pass the Mountains between Novi and Genoa on Horseback; the Rates vary according to the Seasons.  
We gathered a great deal of Baggage during our Voyage, and the number of our Trunks was increased by one half; but to rid ourselves of that Encumbrance, we embarked the greatest part of 'em at Genoa. They who buy a great number of Curiosities will do well to follow our Example: they will find at all the Seaports Consuls of their own Nations, who will help 'em to make a sure Bargain with the Masters of Ships, and give 'em all manner of assistance.  
At our return from Genoa to Novi we hired a Coach with four Horses for Turin, to go by the way of Casal. At Turin we took Horses for Geneva, where we hired others for Basil, and from thence took fresh Horses for Strasburg, agreeing to pass by Hunninghen, Friburg, Brisack, and Schelestat. 'Tis to be observed that a Traveller saves himself a great deal of trouble, by making it a part of his Bargain, that his Charge shall be defrayed on the Road. 'Twould be needless to mention what our passage through these places cost us, since the Rates vary perpetually; the length or shortness of the Days, easiness or badness of the Roads, and greater or less concourse of Traveller's occasion these variations.  
While you are at Geneva, you may hire Horses, to see the fall of the Rhone, and at the same time take a view of the Fort l'Ecluse.  
From Strasburg we embarked on the Rhine to Cologn, the charge of the passage is inconsiderable. There are some large and well-covered Boats, which a Traveller ought to choose rather than those little Wherries, that consist only of four or five Board's nailed together. You may embark on the Rhine at Basil.  
We hired a whole Coach from Cologn to Brussels, where we took another for Ghent, and from thence continued our Journey to Ostend by several Canals; the price of places in the Boats is fixed, and at Ostend we hired a Coach, that we might arrive the sooner at Newport, tho' there is also a Canal between these two Cities.  
The Boat that passes between Brussels and Villebroeck is extremely commodious: The Passengers may be accommodated with Meat and Drink; and in the best Chamber, called the Roufle, there is a Chimney, and a little complete Set of Furniture: You must pay somewhat extraordinary to be in this Chamber.  
Besides, the things which I either described or mentioned in the account of Antwerp, Travellers may visit the Abbey of St. Michael, and especially the Refectory, and the Pictures in the Abbot's Apartment, the Churches of the Carmelites, St. James, and the Dominicans, and the Magazines of Tapestry.  
At Antwerp you may be well accommodated at Laboreurs; and in Brussels, at Sieur Drouïn's at the Sign of the Golden Fountain.  
They who have not the conveniency of a Yacht for their passage to England, need not scruple to go by the Pacquet-boat, which, tho' not so honourable, is both as safe and as good a Sailer as the other.  
D. Antonio de Guevara Bishop of Mondonedo, and Preacher to Charles the Fifth, relates, That the application of a Bag of Saffron to the Region of the Heart, is an effectua l Remedy against the Sickness and Vomiting with which those that are not 
* I'm informed by some Persons that they have received great Benefit on such occasions, by applying a Bag stuffed with grey Salt heaten small, to the Stomach. And others assure me, That the best Remedy is, to keep always, night and day, a piece of Earth under the Nose; for which purpose they provide a sufficient quantity of Earth, and preserve it fresh in a Pot of Clay; and when they have used a piece so long till it gins to grow dry, they put it in again into the Pot, and take out some fresh Earth.  accustomed to the Sea are usually troubled. And he adds, That he tried the Experiment with very good success, when he followed his Master to Afric, in his Expedition against Tunis.  
'Tis almost impossible to give Directions concerning the Road that ought to be taken by those who design to travel to Italy, since the choice of that depends on the place where they intent to enter the Country, and the time they resolve to spend in it. Only, in the general, they ought to consult the Map, and so to take their Measures, that they may see the last days of the Carnaval at Venice, the Holy Week at Rome, and the Octave of the Sacrament at Bologna; to avoid being at Rome during the great Heats; to traverse the Country, to see as much of it as they can; and to endeavour not to pass twice by the same way. If they cannot be at Venice during the Carnaval, they ought at least to be there on Ascension-day.  
It may perhaps be convenient for two or three Strangers to travel in company together; their Fellowship sometimes makes 'em pass their hours more cheerfully, and employ the time they bestow in making Observations with better Success and greater Pleasure, especially when they are all Men of Probity, and of one Humour.  
But these Societies are obnoxious to the same Inconveniencies with which Marriage is attended; for when their Humours do not agree, it had been better for 'em they had never come together. Some are curious, desirous to see and examine every thing with care, and never scruple to expose themselves to a shower of Rain, or to find their Dinner cold at the Inn, if they can but make some new Discovery or important Observation: whereas there are others who travel like Post-horses, and neither mind Inscriptions nor Libraries, provided they can find a good Bed at night, and good Victuals when they are hungry. And therefore a prudent Person ought never to enter into a Society, till he has first throughly studied the Humours of his intended Companions.  
Besides, 'tis by no means convenient to travel in Companies in Italy; the Inns are so miserable that oftentimes they can neither accommodate their Guests with Meat nor Beds, when they are too numerous.  
A Stranger ought always to be furnished with some Iron Machin, to shut his Door on the inside, which may be easily contrived, and made of several sorts; for it happens not unfrequently, that the Doors of the Lodging-rooms have neither Lock nor Bolt; and 'tis commonly observed, that Opportunity makes a Thief.  
The Curiosity of a Traveller, especially of a young man, who goes to see the World that he may learn to live in it, should not be confined barely to Inquiries after inanimate Curiosities. They whose Quality can procure 'em admittance in the Courts of Princes, ought never to pass by such places without visiting 'em. They ought also to see good Company, to inquire after those Persons that are famous for their Skill in Arts and Sciences, and to discourse with 'em, for 'tis impossible to receive certain Information of any thing, but from Persons of that Character, and their Converse is in all respects useful.  
To prevent the Inconveniencies of a bad Lodging, they who do not carry a complete Bed about with 'em aught at least to make provision of Bed-cloaths and Coverlets. I do not propose this piece of Caution to comply with the over-niceness of some Persons, but to guard against the ill consequences of an incommodious Bed, that may be very prejudicial to Health, which is so necessary a Blessing, that if it were only for the preservation of that, a Traveller ought to avoid all manner of Excess.  
To conclude, if we call to mind that a Traveller is more obnoxious than other Persons to Accidents that may disturb the Repose of his Life, this Reflection ought to be a new and powerful Motive to engage him not to forget the principal Duties of it.  
The END.   

THE TABLE.  

ABgarus Page 44  
Academy for Painting at Milan 216  
Academies of Ingenious Persons in Italy 239  
Academy at Geneva 260  
Adda, a River 207  
Admiral Coligni massacred, 30  
Adrian 's Mausoleum 33  
An extraordinary Adventure 299  
agates at Friburg 271  
Air sparkling in the night 184  
Aix in Savoy 256  
Aix la Chapelle 276  
— its Privileges 277  
Alba 88  
Albana ibid.  
Albergo, the great Hospital in Genoa 227  
Albert Durer draws all his Figures with Whiskers 29  
Aldobrandin Wedding 49  
Aldroandus 's Cabinet 186  
Alexander VI. fortifies Castle St. Angelo 33  
— his Repartee concerning Pasquin 54  
— prostrate at his Master's Feet 180  
Alexander the Great, 119, 252  
Alexandria 233  
Alsatia burned 273  
Altar pierced by a Host 73  
Amalasuntha strangled 148  
Amber, what it is 211  
A great Dish of one piece of Amber ibid.  
Ambition 252  
Anagram on the Republic of Geneva 262  
Anastasius the Bibliothecary, 97  
Andes, Virgil 's Birth-place, 203  
Ann, Pope John the Twelfth's Mistress 102  
Annius of Viterbo 145  
Antipasto 240  
Antique Pieces 171  
Antiquities of the Cities of Italy 250  
Antwerp 294  
Apparition of three Saints to a Boatman 13  
Aqua felice 72  
Aquapendente 148  
Ara Coeli, a Church 123  
Arch of Titus, at Rome 125  
Arch of Constantin ibid.  
Good Archers 265  
Architecture of Rome 94  
Architecture; see Instructions to a Traveller.  
Christian's nicknamed Arenarii, 133  
Ark of the Covenant 45  
Armenians at Rome 115  
Arms of Adam 281  
— of Bern and Geneva, 265  
— of Sienna 152  
— of Venice 3  
Arno, a River 158  
Arscot, its Duke; a pleasant Story 295  
Arsenal of Bern 265  
— of Brussels 285  
— of Casal 234  
— of Castle St. Angelo 33  
— of Florence 181  
— of Geneva 257  
— of Lucca 162  
— of Strasburg 273  
— of the Vatican 33  
Arve, a River 256  
Ascanius 's Tomb 88  
Asinelli, a Tower 190  
Asparagus grows in the Fields near Pavia 222  
Balaam 's Ass 45  
Astroites 157  
St. Augustin 's Body brought from Sardinia to Pavia 221  
Augustus 123  
The House of Austria cures Wens and Stammerers 207   

B  
Balaam 's Ass 45  
Balsams excellent 181  
Banners in St. Mark 's Place 3  
Baptism of Infidels at Rome, 116  
Baptistery at Florence 177  
— at Pisa 158  
Palace Barberin Palestrina, 92  
— at the four Fountains 93  
St. Peter 's Bark 160  
The Sixteen Barks 63  
Barnabots 8  
Barth. Coglione 206  
Barth. Zanicheli 192  
Basil 269  
Bastions double 234  
Baths of Agrippa 64  
Bayonets prohibited in the Cities of Italy 246  
Beauty of Rome 18, 19, etc.  
— of the Country about Florence 169  
Bed enriched with Jewels 66  
Hanging Beds 253  
Jesuits Bell at Brussels 290  
Sound of the Bells of Jerusalem, 45  
Extraordinary Bell at Mantua, 203  
Great Bell of Milan 215  
Bellarmin 104  
Gentilis and John Bellini 9  
M. Bellori 52, 138  
Belvedere 31, 59  
Villa Benedettis 55  
Bennet IX. made Pope at ten years of age 78  
Bergamask, a good Country, 207  
Bergamo 206  
Bern 265  
Bezoar 155  
Germane Bible 32  
Biedoblo, a City in Afric, turned to Stone 67  
Bishops of Basil and Geneva 269  
Two Bishops rise from the Dead, 278  
A Blind Man a good Engraver, 93  
Blondel 's Treatise against Pope Joan refuted 107, etc. 

See Popes, Joan.    
Boëtius a Native of Pavia, 220  
Bologna 184  
Bolsena 148  
Bombarding of Genoa, 227  
Robert Bone 265  
Works in Bone 195  
An abominable Book 85  
Golden Book at Venice 7  
Palace Borghese 21  
Villa Borghese 64  
Cavalier Borri 35  
Bozzolo 200  
Brabant 293  
Brabantins 284  
Brescia 203  
The pretended Coyness of a young Bride 49  
Bridge St. Angelo 71  
Bridge Sixtus ibid.  
Brisack 271  
Angelo Bronzini a Painter, 180  
A very rare Brooch 41  
Bruges 301  
Brussels 283  
Bruxillus reckons Two hundred and eighty thousand Gods at Rome 22  
Bucephalus 119  
Buffalo's 240  
Burgundians defeated at the Battle of Morat 264  
Butter scarce in Italy 241   

C  
Several Cabinets at Rome, 65  
Cabinet of Aldroandus at Bologna 186  
— of M. Bellori 138  
— of the Marquis de Cospi, 186  
— of M. Fesch and Erasmus 269  
— of Kircher 140  
— of the Duke of Mantua, 202  
— of M. Settala at Milan 210  
— of the Great Duke of Tuscany 172, 173  
Calendrin Professor of Divinity at Geneva 261  
Calepin, where buried 206  
Sea Calf 282  
Calvin 262  
Campagna di Roma 249  
Campo Santo, at Pisa 159  
Canal Navilio 207  
Candlestick of Amber 172  
Cannon made of the Nails of the Door of the Pantheon, 23  
Cannon, when first brought into the Field 206  
Caper- shrub 248  
Capirol 119  
Cardinals their ancient Titles, 32  
Carobe- Tree 248  
Casal 233  
Cascade of Tivoli 61  
Castle St. Angelo 33  
Castle of Cremona 199  
Castles very rare in the Country of I●aly 242  
Castor and Pollux 39  
Catacombs 127, etc.  
Cathedral of Florence 175  
— of Milan 212  
— of Pisa 158  
— of Sienna 149  
Celibacy the cause of Disorders, 37  
Ceremonies used in the Baptism of the Jews 116  
— of washing the Feet of Pilgrims 117  
— of Rome 20, 28  
— troublesome at Florence 182  
Certaldo, a Hill full of Shells, 153  
Cestius 's Pyramid 49  
Bored Chair for the Popes, 74, 102  
Sleeping Chairs 249  
Chalcondylas 102  
Imperial Chamber 275  
Chamber where Charles V was born 300  
Twelve thousand and Five hundred Chambers in the Vatican Palace 28  
Four thousand Chambers in the Palace Palestrina 92  
Chambery 255  
Palace of the Chancery 91  
Fine Chapels 87  
Chapel of St. Laurence in Florence 178  
— of the Holy Handkerchief in Turin 236  
— of the Holy Sacrament of Miracles 290  
Chapter of Liege 279  
Hetruscan Characters 172  
Charleses V crowned at Aix and Bologna 187  
— splendidly entertained by John Daens a Merchant of Antwerp 296  
— was born, proclaimed Emperor, and took K. Francis I. on St. Mathias 's Day, 300  
Cheeses at Parma weighing 500 pounds each 241  
Villa Chigi 241  
Palace Chigi 90  
Church of Annunciata at Genoa 230  
— of St. Anthony 88  
— of St. Constance 137  
— of S. John de Lateran, 87  
— of St. Laurence at Florence 178  
— of St. Marry major 87  
— of St. Peter at Rome 18, 24, 25  
Cathedral of Sienna 149 

See Cathedral.    
Churchyard of Pisa 159  
Cicero 120  
L. Q. Cincinnatus 278  
cyphers of Christ's Name, 134  
A Circle of Gold round Bologna offered for the Ransom of King Hentius 190  
Circuit of Rome 16  
Citadel of Bergamo 206  
— of Brescia 204  
— of Casal 233  
— of Florence 181  
— of Mantua 201  
— of Milan 216  
— of Parma and Antwerp, 196, 294  
— of Sienna 152  
— of Turin 236  
Clement IV. and his two Daughters 20  
Clement VII. crowns Charles V. at Bologna 187  
Coal 280  
Barth. Coglion 206  
Coligni massacred 30  
Coliseum 125  
The Gates Collatina and Collina 99  
Roman College 139  
College of the Nobility at Parma 197  
Collyridian Heretics 35  
M. Colomies' 97  
Family of Colonna 's very noble, 93  
Palace Colonna 93  
Columns in the State of Venice 3  
Fine Columns 23, 39  
Column on which St. Paul was beheaded 73  
— on which the Cock crew when St. Peter denied Christ, 73  
— which was cleft on the day of the Passion 73  
— called Milliarium 121  
The Columns of Trajan and Antonin 126  
Columns of Porphyry 178  
A wonderful Column 159  
Commerce of Geneva 232  
Comparison of Frescati and Versailles, 59  
Fine Convents 184  
St. Martin 's Cope 205  
Cork- trees 247  
Corpus-christi Day 217  
Cotton 248  
Council of the Court 275  
— of Soissons 103  
Courtesans of Rome 48  
— of Venice ibid.  
Cramp cured with a Ring 206  
Cremona 199  
Cross of the penitent Thief, 45  
Genealogy of the Family of Crovy 281  
Crucifix drawn by Mich. Angelo from a crucified Man, 21  
— which spoke to St. Bridget, 42  
— which spoke to St. Peter, ibid.  
— which spoke to St. Andrew des Ursins 181  
— which bowed its Head, 231  
— clothed like a Swisser, 268  
Crucifixion of St. Peter 73  
Crystal of the Rock 219  
Cuirasses made for Women 229  
Curtius 's Lake 125  
Cybele 100  
Cypress- tree two hundred years old 247   

D  
Dactyli Judaei 157  
J. Daens treated Charles V. 296  
Dance of Death by Holben, 270  
David descends from Heaven to play on his Harp at St. Katherine 's Wedding 151  
Day, when begun by the Italians, 251  
Deluge 154  
Dendrites 157  
Description of the Chapel of St. Laurence 178  
— of the Venus of Medicis 175  
— of certain shining Flies, 193  
Device of the Republic of Geneva 261  
A Ship full of Devils 14  
Devils perch on a Walnut-tree, 45  
Diamond of the Great Duke of Tuscany 174  
A wrought Diamond found in a piece of Marble 62  
Dianae Speculum 89  
Dice of Pilate 's Soldiers 73  
Disciples of Emaus painted with Chaplets. 30  
Dish in which the Paschal Lamb was eaten 231  
Dish made of one Emerald 231  
A large Dish of one piece of Amber 211  
A Diver drowned 63  
Doctor Molinos 35  
Doge of Venice 4  
— his Revenue ibid.  
Doge of Genoa 4, 229  
— must be Fifty years old, ib.  
Dogesses or Dogresses of Venice 5  
Bolonia Dogs 186  
Sea-Dog 282  
Dogs draw Coaches at Brussels, 286  
Doliolo 52  
Donation of Maud to the Pope's 144  
Pretended Donation of Constantin the Great to the Popes, ibid.  
Doves of Peace 134  
Duillius a Roman Consul, the first who was honoured with a Naval Triumph 120  
Creation of the Dukes of Parma 196   

E  
Eagles of Geneva 265  
Earl of Ossory 173  
The Earth swallows up a Soldier, 165  
Easterlings their House 295  
A rare Echo 219  
Another Echo which repeats a syllable forty times 219  
Elegy of Rome by the Abbot of Vrsperg, in the margin 85  
— of Leonard de Vinci, 207  
Enzelin 's Tomb 190  
Epigrams on the Bored Chair, 85, 86  
Style of Christian Epitaphs, 132  
Epitaph of a Bishop 301  
— of a Horse 286  
— of Jo. de Fuc. 147  
— of Proculus 191  
— of Quintin Mathys 297  
— of Raphael Urbino 23  
— of Richard TWO, King of England 164  
Eridanus 234  
Est, Est, Est 147  
Etymology of Alexandria, 233  
— of Alexis 168  
— of Beatrix 167  
— of St. Cecilia 168  
— of St. Christina 167  
— of Cyprian 168  
— of Damian 167  
— of George ibid.  
— of Gorgonian 168  
— of Jerome ibid.  
— of St. Katherine 150  
— her History ibid.  
— of Martin 167  
— of St. Maurice ibid.  
— of Pavia 223  
— of Saturnian 168  
— of St. Siphorian 167  
Exchange of Antwerp 296  
— why called Bourse ibid.   

F  
Fans used by Men 192  
Farthingales worn at Genoa, 229  
Palace Farnese 90  
The Fathers 107  
La Favourite, a House of Pleasure 202  
Faustina deified 138  
Faustina in love with a Gladiator 66  
Festival kept at Geneva in memory of the Scalado 258  
Festival observed at Brussels, 288  
Indian Fig- trees 248  
Fistic- Nuts ibid.  
Order of the Golden Fleece, 301  
Flies shining in the Night, 193  
Florence 169  
Flowers 287  
A rare Flower 65  
Fort- Lewis 274  
Fort of Urban VIII. 193  
Fortune a Goddess 138  
Fortune Panthea ibid.  
Divers Fossils' 157  
A Fountain tastes of Milk, 124  
A pleasant Fountain 188  
St. Francis 's Hood 180  
St. Fredian changes the course of a River 163  
Frescati 59  
Friburg in Brisgaw 271  
Good Fruit at Genoa 241  
Roman Funerals 51, 133  
Fury of the Heathens against the Sepulchers of the Christians 133   

G  
Gabel on Corn and Wine at Genoa 232  
Gabrino Fondulio 200  
Gallery of the Great Duke of Tuscany 172  
Galley- Slaves at Leghorn, 161  
Game scarce in Italy 242  
Castle Gandolfo 88  
Gardens of Genoa 226  
Garisenda, a Tower in Bologna 190  
Garnet a Jesuit 139  
Fine brazen Gates 177  
Gates Collatina and Collina, 99  
Genealogy in a straight Line from Adam 281  
Geneva 257  
Genoa 224  
The several Governments of Genoa ibid.  
Ghent 298  
— less than Louvain ibid.  
Gibelins' 143, 166  
The Gladiator in St. James 's Park at Whitehall 64  
Glass Windows are rare in Italy 226  
Looking-Glass 91  
Large Globes 173  
Gods of Rome, how many, 22  
Gondola's at Venice 11  
St. Gondulfus 278  
Gonfalonier of Lucca 162  
Government of Lucca ibid.  
Granite a sort of Marble 95  
Grasshoppers 146  
Greeks at Rome 115  
St. Gregory 's Dialogue with an Image 42  
Grisler a Governor in Switzerland 265  
Cool Grotto 's 53  
Grotta di Cane 329  
Guastalla 268  
St. Gudula 's Church 290  
Guelphs & Gibelins, 143, 166  
Guttum, what it is 139  
Gutschoven 281   

H  
Ridiculous Habits 269  
Habit of young Noblemen at Venice 73  
— of the Counsellors of Basil, 269  
Hail the scourge of Piedmont, 234  
Great Hall 175  
Hameranus 252  
Holy Handkerchief in seven different places 237  
Heats at Rome 249  
Hentius 's Tomb 190  
Henry IV. King of Denmark, 245  
Hercules Farnese 91  
History of the Church of Ara Coeli 123  
— of a Cannon at Brussels, 284  
— of two Columns of Porphyry 178  
— of another Column ibid.  
— of a Crucifix at Genoa. 

See Crucifix.    
— of two Divers 63  
— of a Father and his Son, 399  
— of a Festival at Brussels, 288  
— of a Gentleman's falling into a Ditch 127  
— of Hentius and the People of Bologna 190  
— of a Hermit who hanged himself publicly, 140  
— of St. James Shakehorse, 46  
— of St. Katherine of Sienna 150  
— of the Ring and Thumb of St. Mark 13  
— of the Foundation of the Church of St. Marry major 87  
— of the Foundation of the Church of St. Mary of the People 45  
— of a rich Merchant at Antwerp 296  
— of a Notre dame or Image of our Lady 165  
— of Quintin Mathys, 297  
— of the Emperor Sigismond and Pope John XXIII, 200  
— of Sixtus V, and the Prince of Parma 34  
— of the Statues at Villa Pamphili 68  
A Hog half covered with Wool, 210  
Holben, a famous Painter, 270  
St. Francis 's Hood 180  
Horatij and Curiatij 88  
Horns of Ammon 157  
— Fossil 212  
— of Moses 45  
— of the Rhinoceros 172  
— of unicorns 211  
Horses in the Capitol 119  
— of Marble ibid.  
— at Monte cavallo ibid.  
— at Rome blest at St. Anthony 's Church, 88  
Three famous Horses 285  
Twelve thousand Crowns given for a Horse ibid.  
A Horse 's Tail twenty foot long, 173  
Great Hospital of Genoa, 227  
— of Milan, 217  
Hospital of the Trinity at Rome 141  
Host, how carried at Venice, 142  
Houïlle 280  
Goodman Houïlleux ibid.  
Hours, how reckoned in Italy, 251  
House of Sibylla Tiburtina, 62  
Houses of the Easterlings, 296  
— at Rome 17, 90  
Houses of Pleasure of the Duke of Mantua 202  
— about Rome; see Tivoli and Frescati.  
— of the Duke of Savoy, 236  
— of the Great Duke of Tuscany, 181  
Hunninghen 270  
Double white Hyacinth a very rare Flower 65   

I  
Jacobins of Bern 266  
St. James Shake horse 46  
St. James devoutly adored at Pistoya 166  
Jargon of Bergamo 206  
Jealousy of the Italians 246  
The Jesuit Garnet 139  
Jews of Brussels 290  
— of Rome 116  
— marry before they are twenty years old ibid.  
— of Venice 6  
Image of the Virgin chides St. Gregory 42  
Other speaking Images, ibid.  
Three Images weep and bleed, ib.  
Image of Christ, made by Christ himself 44  
— of Christ, made by Angels 87  
— of Christ, begun by Nicodemus, and finished by Angels 162  
— of the Virgin, about which Angels sing Litanies, 88  
— of our Lady, which tossed the little Jesus from one Arm to another, 165 

See Crucifix.    
Infant turned to Stone 66  
Ingratitude 148  
Inhabitants of Venice 2  
Fine Inlaid Work 189, 206  
Innocent XI. Pope 118  
Inns meanly furnished 239  
Inscription against Women, 27  
— on the Pedestal of a Statue of Justice, 252  
— on the Gate of the Manufactory of Bern, 266  
— at Viterbo 144  
A curious Inscription 159  
Forged Inscriptions 145  
Institution of the Order of the Golden Fleece 301  
Invention of Painting in Oil, 52  
Inundations of the Tiber 71  
Joan the She Pope 74  
— Mistress of Pope John XII. 101  
John Annius of Viterbo, 145  
— of Bruges, Inventor of Painting in Oil, 52  
— Daens 296  
— XII. made Pope before he was 18 years old, 78  
St. John de Morienne 256  
Floating Islands 63  
Italians 239  
— their Rhodomontades, 199  
Jujube- trees 248  
Treaty of St. Julian 258  
Juliers 276  
Palace Justiniani 90   

K  
St. Katherine of Sienna 150  
— of Vigri 188  
Two Kings taken Prisoners, 223  
Tomb of the Three Kings, 219  
Kings-Evil. William III. rejects the superstitious Custom of his Predecessors, with respect to this Disease, 206  
Knives with Twelve Blades, 183   

L  
Labarum 205  
Lachrymatories 132  
Ladies of Venice 12  
Lagunes of Venice 4  
Lake of Bolsena 147  
— of Castel-Gandolfo 89  
— of Curtius 125  
— of Geneva 257, 258  
— of Mount Cenis 254  
— of Nemi 89  
— of Solfatara 63  
— of Vico or Cyminus, 143  
Sepulchral Lamps 139  
Language of Bergamo, 206  
Lantern of Judas 45  
St. John de Lateran 86  
St. Laurence 's Chapel 178  
Lausanne 264  
Lazaret, an Hospital in Milan, 217  
Leda 39  
Leghorn 160  
Lentisk- trees, 248  
Leo IV. 104  
Leo X. 97  
Leonard de Vinci, the most accomplished man of his Age, 207  
Letter of St. Chrysostom to Caesarius 180  
Liberty of Venice, true Libertinism 5  
Library of the Palace Altieri, 91  
— Ambrosian 215  
— of the Palace Barberini, 92  
— of Heidelberg 31  
— of St. Laurence 179  
— of the Roman College, 139  
— of the Vatican 31  
— of Duke of Urbin ibid.  
Liege 279  
Cassini 's Meridian Line 188  
Lion escapes out of his Den without doing any hurt 181  
Litanies of the Virgin sung by Angels 88  
The Pope's Litters 118  
The Pope's Livery ibid.  
A live Lobster found in a Rock, 62  
Lombardy a plain Country, 184, 192  
St. Longin 202  
Lorier 187  
Love, the cause of Disorders, 246  
Fort Lovis 275  
Louvain 280  
— one of the Laws of its College ibid.  
— the Well of its Castle, ibid.  
— number of its Colleges, 281  
Lubeccio, a dangerous Wind, 228  
Lucciole, or shining Flies, 193  
Lucca 161  
Villa Ludovisia 59, 66  
Several Families of Lucca retire to Geneva 165  
Luther 32   

M  
Machine to drive away Flies, 192  
M. Magliabecchi 180  
Magna Mater 138  
A Maid General of an Army, 77  
A Maid made Pope 74  
Maid of Orleans 77  
Poor Maids, how married, 246  
Maids put into Monasteries or married 20  
Young Maids dance and sing, 152  
A Man with one Body, two Heads and four Hands 181  
Manner of reckoning the Hours in Italy 251  
Mantua 200  
Manuscripts written by Aldroandus 187  
Manuscripts, 179, 216, 262, 269  
Maple- tree 247  
Marble and Minerals in Italy, 248  
Marforio 55  
St. Mark is Thumb 13  
Marriage of St. Katherine of Sienna with Christ 150  
Marriage of Palm-trees 247  
Marmirol 202  
Carlo Marotti a famous Painter 92  
Martana an Island 147  
Martin V. 214  
St. Marry major 87  
St. Marry del popolo 45  
Massacre of Coligni 30  
Massacre of Paris approved by the Pope ibid.  
A Medal on that Massacre, 31  
Masterpiece of Raphael 73  
Mastreicht 278  
Quintin Mathys 297  
Countess Maud Pope Gregory the seventh's Mistress, 26, 144  
Mausoleum of Adrian 33  
— of Cecilia 127  
— of Cestius 49 

See Tombs.—    
Merry May 153  
Measure of Christ 73  
Mechlin 292  
Rare Medals 40  
— on Q. Christian of Sweden 252  
Winter Melons 241  
Meridian Line by Cassini, 188  
Mezeray 's Opinion of Pope Joan 85  
S. Michael in Bosco a fine Convent, 184  
Milan 209  
Milanese, a fertile Country, 207  
Four hundred Silk-Mills in Bologna 185  
No Windmills in Italy, 251  
Milliarium a Pillar 120  
Miracles of St. Fredian 163  
Modena 193  
Dr. Molinos 35  
Money of Bologna 185  
— of Genoa 232  
— of Judas 45  
— of Lucca 163  
Monks love ease 183  
Monks at the Virgin's Wedding 30  
Mons testaceus 52  
Villa Montalte 67  
Monte Cavallo 119  
Monte Dracone 59  
Monte Fiascone 146  
Monte Juovo 183  
Monte nuovo, a Hill that grew up in one night 154  
Montorio 73  
S. Monulfus 278  
Morat 264  
Morges ibid.  
S. John de Morienne 256  
Moses 's Rod 214  
Essays to find the perpetual Motion 210  
Mount-Cenis 254  
Mountain of St. Julian, 167  
— of Radicofani 148  
— in Tuscany full of shells 153  
— of Viterbo 143  
Mountains of Italy 248  
— of Rome 16  
Mourners hired 133  
Mourning for the Death of Caesar 159  
White Mulberry- trees 248  
Muscatello Wine of Tuscany, 240  
Effects of Music 245  
Mushroomns bearing three half-bodyed human Bodies 157  
Musket- barrel of Massive Gold 173  
Myrtle- trees 248   

N  
Nail of the Crucifixion 214  
Natura rerum parens 138  
Nature does nothing in vain, 156, 157  
Christ's Navel- string 45  
Navilio, a Canal 207  
Newport 304  
Noblemen of Genoa 229  
— of Italy live in the Cities, 242  
— of Lucca 165  
— of Venice, 6, 7, 8, 13, 245  
Notre dame, or the Image of our Lady at Bologna; see Image  
Nuns of Venice 5  
Nurseries 181   

O  
Ever-green Oaks 248  
Obelisk of St. Peter 95  
Obelisks of Rome 94, 95  
Sweet Odours 181  
Oglio, a River 205  
Oil used instead of Butter, 241  
Sweet Oil found in a piece of Marble 62  
Olive- trees 248  
Ombrellas 149  
Onuphrius 97  
Swisser Orators 270  
Order of the Precious Blood, 202  
— of the Golden Fleece 301  
Oriflam of Constantin 204  
— of St. Denis 205  
Maid of Orleans 77  
Ornaments used at the Emperor's Coronation 278  
Osiris 92  
Earl of Ossory 173  
Ostend 303  
Ancient Medals of Otho 187   

P  
Antique Painting 49, 138  
Painting resembling a Print, 216  
Painting in Oil, when invented, 52  
Palace Altieri 91  
— Barberini at the four Fountains 93  
— Barberini Palestrina 92  
— at Bologna 186  
— Borghese 21  
— Caprara 186  
— of the Chancery 91  
— Chigi 90  
— of Queen Christian of Sweden 39  
— Colonna 93  
— Farnese 90  
— Royal at Genoa 228  
— Justiniani 90  
— of the Duke of Mantua, 201  
— of Monte Cavallo 119  
— of the Duke of Parma, 196  
— of the Duke of Savoy, 236  
— of the Vatican 28  
— of Whitehall 202  
Palaces of Rome 90  
Palm- branches 247  
Palm- Sunday ibid.  
Palm- trees ibid.  
Villa Pamphili 67  
Panthea 138  
Pantheon 21  
— of Athens 23  
Parma 196  
— its Duchy a Fief of the Ecclesiastic State, 34  
Paschal II. 45  
Pasquin 54  
Curious Pavement of the Cathedral of Sienna 149  
Pavement of Florence 170  
Pavia 220  
St. Paul 's Splinter 45  
Penitents of Rome 140  
Perfumes 181  
Persecution of the French Protestants 38  
St. Peter 's Church at Rome, 18, 24  
Petrification 66  
A Phantom 280  
Phidias a Sculptor 119  
Philip the Good Duke of Burgundy institutes the Order of the Golden Fleece 301  
Philipsburg 274  
Pictures criticised, 29, 30, 69, 176  
Divers Pictures, 9, 10, 11, 21, 28, 29, 30, 40, 60, 65, 66, 67, 73, 90, 93, 120, 136, 150, 151, 173, 197, 218, 269, 270  
Eight thousand Original Pictures at the Palace Colonna 93  
Piedmont 234  
Pietro-mala, a City in Tuscany, where the Air shines in the Night 184  
S. Pietro in carcere 124  
Pilgrims at Rome 117  
Pipes, their Use among the Romans 51  
Pisa 157  
Pistoya 166  
Pl●cenza 198  
M. de Plessis Mornay 102  
Po, a River 199, 222  
Poggi bonzi 152  
Poggio Imperiale 181  
Castor and Pollux 39  
Martinus Polonus 98, 99  
Pomegranate- trees 248  
Pomaerium 199  
Popes chosen young 78  
Female Pope 74  
Ancient Habits of Pope's 29  
Monstrous Popes no Rarities, 85  
Verses on certain Popes, 85, 86  
Pope Joan 74, 75, etc. 96, etc. 149  
Port of Antwerp 295  
Portraiture of Christ made by himself 44  
— another begun by Nicodemus, and finished by Angels, 162  
— of Cromwell 173  
— of General Monk ibid.  
— of the Earl of Ossory, ibid.  
— of Paul V, 21  
— of the Queen of Sweden, 38  
Pouzzolane, asort of Sand, 133  
Prattinola 181  
Praxiteles a Sculptor 119  
Luther 's Prayer 32  
Italian Preachers 47  
Christ's Prepuce 45  
Pressentina, an Island 147  
Printing house of Plantin, 298  
Privileges of Aix la Chapelle, 277  
— of the People of Bologna, 185  
— of the Province of Brabant 292  
— of the Noblemen of Venice 13  
Procession on Corpus-Christi-day 217, 229, 230  
Pro Christi, what it is 135  
Proculus 191  
Fine Prospects, 28, 59, 69, 198  
Protectors of Genoa 232  
Protestants, where buried at Venice 14  
— persecuted in France 38  
Proverbs 55, 56, etc.  
— on Justice 177  
— concerning Milan, 219  
Pyramid of Cestius 49, 52   

Q  
Quails passing from Afric to Italy 242  
Quintin Mathys 297   

R  
Radicofani 148  
Raisins of Bologna 241  
Ramparts of Antwerp 294  
— of Turin 236  
Ranuccio Prince of Parma, 34  
Raphael of Urbino 23, 28  
— his Masterpiece, 73  
Rarities natural 173 

See Cabinets of Curiosities.    
Rates of the Apostolical Chamber, 84  
Reggio 195  
Regisole, a Statue 221  
Curious Relics, 41, 42, 45, 46, 73, 74, 180, 214, 219  
Remora 212  
Repartee of Alexander VI, concerning Pasquin 54  
— of a Venetian Ambassador concerning the Donation of St. Peter 's Patrimony, 144  
Republic of Lucca 161  
Contradictory Revelations of St. Katherine of Sienna, and St. Bridget 151  
Revenue of the Doge of Venice 4  
— of the Republic 6  
Rhine, a River 269  
Riches of Antwerp 295  
Ring of St. Mark 13  
A River miraculously changes its course 163  
Robert Bone, an Archer, 265  
Rocks softened 124  
Rhodomontades 298  
Rods of Moses and Aaron, 45, 176, 180, 214  
Rome 16  
— its Antiquities, 64, 65, 66  
Rostrum 228  
Rotonda; see Pantheon  
Rupes Tarpeia 124   

S  
Sacking of Mantua 202  
Sanctum Sanctorum 87  
Golden Sand 256  
Sauciges of Bologna 185  
Villa Savelli 67  
Saxum mirae magnitudinis, 27  
S. Scala 87  
Scalado of Geneva 257  
Scarperia, a Town 183  
Scheld, a River 294, 295  
Schelestat 272  
Scorpions 243  
Scotists 151  
Rare Sculptures 39 

See Instruct. to a Traveller.    
Sea has lost ground at Leghorn, 160  
Senate of Women 126  
Sena 248  
Sentences and Proverbs, 55, 56, 57  
Serein, or Evening Dew very dangerous about Rome 249  
Sermons 47  
Sermon of an amorous Monk 48  
The brazen Serpent of the Wilderness to be seen at Milan, 218  
Fossil Shells 157  
Shells on the Mountains of Tuscany 153  
— found in the Kidneys, 155  
Ship full of Devils 14  
Sibyls 124  
Siege of Ostend 303  
Sienna 149  
Silk of Bologna 185  
Sixtus IV. settled Whores at Rome 48  
Sixtus V. very severe 34  
— banishes and afterwards recalls the Whores, 48  
Skeleton petrefyed 66  
Snow at Rome in August, 87  
Soloturn 268  
Songs of young Girls in Tuscany 152  
Spaniards in love with Statues, 26  
Orlando Furioso 's Spear 221  
Speculum Dianae 89  
Spiders  
Spire 275  
M. Spon 132  
Sponges 248  
Spurs of Reggio 195  
Stammerers; see Austria.  
Star of the three Kings 45  
Statue of Alexander Farnese and his Son Rannuccio, 198  
— of the Duke of Alva, 294  
— of Boniface VIII. 186  
— of Cosmo I. Great Duke of Tuscany 160, 171  
— of a Father and his Son, 290  
— of God the Father, 176  
— of Grego●y XIII. 186  
— of Martin the Fifth without a Beard 214  
— of a Peasant who discovered Catiline 's Conspiracy, 174  
— of Tullia, the only one of its kind in Rome 92  
— of Urban VIII, made by a blind man 93  
Ancient and very rare Statues, 65, 66, 67, 68  
Fine Statues, 31, 39, 65, 66, 90, 91, 92, 93, 119, 120, 172, 174  
Fine Statues made by Bernin, 65 One thousand eight hundred and sixty seven ancient Statues in the Palace Justiniani at Rome 90  
Steeple of Antwerp 297  
The highest Steeple in Europe, 272  
Style of Christian Epitaphs, 132  
Stilettoes of Milan 246  
Stone of Abraham 's Sacrifice, 46  
— on which Christ was circumcised ibid.  
— Dendrites 182  
— on which the Soldiers cast Lots for Christ's Garments 73  
— Travertin 62  
The Devil's Stone 41  
A very great Stone 27  
Pumice Stones 248  
Shining Stones of Bologna, 192  
Strasburg 272  
Fine Street 198  
Prodigious Strength 208  
S●rigil, what it is 139  
Sturgeon 241  
M. le Suêur 97  
A vast Sum of Money given by a private Person for the building and adorning the Front of the Cathedral Church of Milan 213  
A Picture of the last Supper, in which there is a Gammon of Bacon instead of the Paschal Lamb 29  
Susa 254  
Christina Queen of Sweden, 38  
Swelling of the Throat; see Austria  
The wearing of Swords prohibited at Genoa and Lucca. 246   

T  
A fine Table 173  
Tagliacozzo 185  
Tail of Balaam 's Ass 45  
— of a Horse twenty foot long, 173  
Tarantula 's 244  
Tarpeia rupes 124  
Tears preserved 133  
William Tell a Swisser 77  
Temple of Bacchus 136  
Tesin, a River 222  
Tetrapolis, or Viterbo 145  
Fine Theatre 196  
Thomists 151  
Tiber 71  
Tilmont 280  
Tin scarce in Italy 251  
Tivoli 60  
Tomb of Adrian the Emper. 33  
— of Ascanius 88  
— of Aubigné 262  
— of St. Augustin 221  
— of Bacchus 137  
— of Cecilia 127  
— of Cestius 49  
— of Charles the Great, 277  
— of Barth. Coglione, 206  
— of St. Dominic 189  
— of Hentius or Enzelin, 190  
— of Jo. de Fuc. 147  
— of St. Luke 132  
— of Michael Angelo, 180  
— of St. Peter 27  
— of Raphael Urbino 23  
— of Richard King of England 164  
— of a Duke of Rohan 262  
Tombs of the Horatij and Curatii 88  
— of the three Kings 219  
— of the Naso's 52  
— of the Great Dukes of Tuscany 179  
Ancient Tombs of the Christians 133  
Tongue of Stammerers; see Austria  
Tortoises 192  
Town turned to Stone 67  
Tower of Bristol 191  
— of Cremona 199  
— of Florence 176 

See Steeple.    
Towers of Bologna 190  
— of Pisa 158  
— of Sienna 152  
— of Viterbo 143  
The Transfiguration the best and last Work of Raphael, 73  
Treaty of St. Julian 258  
Trees in Italy 247  
Naval Triumph 120  
Ancient Trophies ibid.  
Trout 259  
Trunk of Belvedere 31  
A dry Trunk of a Tree blossoms, 178  
Tulips dear 65  
Tullia, a rare Statue 92  
Tullianum, an ancient Prison, 124  
Divers Tuns 240  
Turin 235  
Turnip exactly resembling a Hand 157  
A fine Turquoise 174   

V  
Valentin, a House of Pleasure belonging to the Duke of Savoy 236  
Vatican Palace 28  
Vaticanus ibid.  
Venus' roughly handled, 39, 68  
The famous Venus of Medicis, 174  
Verrua, a fortified Town in Piedmont 234  
Versailles 59, 61  
Verses on the preservation of Health 258  
— on the Pope's 85, 86  
Fine Antique Vessels, 40, 139, 173, 174  
Vessels of the Temple of Solomon 125  
Ugolino, at Bologna 187  
Ugonottorum Strages 31  
Via Aemilia 143  
Katherine de Vigri 188  
Villa Benedettis 55  
— Borghese 64  
— Chigi 67  
— Ludovisia 66  
— Montalta or Savelli 67  
— Pamphili ibid.  
Virgil in Manuscript 32  
— born at Andes 203  
Conception of the Virgin 151  
Viterbo 143  
Unicorns 211  
University of Bologna 185  
— of Louvain 281  
— of Parma 197  
— of Pavia 220  
Volto Santo 162  
Utrecht 279   

W  
Wardrobe of the Great Duke of Tuscany 175  
Washing of the Feet of Pilgrims at Rome 117  
Water at Antwerp 298  
— of the Nile 222  
— of the Tesin very cold, ibid.  
Aldobrandin Wedding 49  
Wedding of St. Katherine of Sienna 150  
— of the Virgin Mary, 30  
An extraordinary Well 236  
Whores settled at Rome by Pope's 48  
William III. See King's Evil.  
William Tell a Swisser, 77, 265  
Italian Wine 240  
Compliment of Wine in Switzerland 270  
She-Wolf of Romulus, 65, 120  
Women of Brussels 288  
— enslaved 37  
— enter but once a year into St. Peter 's Chapel, 27  
— invisible at Florence, 182  
— separated from Men at Church 247  
Women and Men ride in different Coaches 197  
Apology for Women 78  
A Woman with a Beard like a Capuchin Friar 187  
A Woman in love with a Gladiator 66  
English Women happy 37  
Odd Habits of Women. See Habits.  
Senate of Women 126  
Warlike Women 229  
A Worm found in a Flint, 62  
Writing awry 216  
Sibyllin Writings 124   

Z  
Barth. Zanicheli 192  
Fred. Zucchero a Painter, 176  
Zuccone, the Work of Donatelli 177   
FINIS.