THE DELIGHTS OF Holland: OR, A Three months' Travel about that and the other PROVINCES.  
WITH Observations and Reflections on their Trade, Wealth, Strength, Beauty, Policy, etc.  
Together with A Catalogue of the Rarities in the Anatomical School at LEYDEN.  
By William Montague, Esq  
LONDON, Printed for John Sturton, near Serjeant's-Inn Gate, in Chancery-Lane; and A. Bosvile, at the Dial over-against St. Dunstan's Church, in Fleetstreet, 1696.   

THE PREFACE.  
I Here present You (Reader) with a more Exact and Particular Account of Holland, and the other Provinces about which We Travelled, than was ever yet in Print.  
Nothing of Moment escaped our Remark, the most Minute (if worthy our Sight and Observation) was collected, and digested.  
We were Three English Gentlemen, all of a Piece, when We set out, We spared no Cost of Time, or Money; We were not Sneaking, or Extravagant, but thriftily Liberal, rather than Profuse; We stood in the best and clearest Light; that is, We kept the best Company, dined at the principal Ordinaries, (where the greatest Men of those Countries think it no Diminution to be present,) avoided (as much as with Decency We could) the Conversation of our own Countrymen, Tippling, and Gaming; being wholly Intent upon the Business We came about, viz. the Viewing and nicely Prying into the Wealth, Strength, Beauty, and Policy of these Provinces; never throughly known, or narrowly examined into by any of their Neighbour-Nations; at least by what has appeared in Public of them.  
I have not observed any great Order or Method, in the Marshalling our Remarks; nor do I pretend to Style, or Flourish, having contented myself with setting down our Observations as We made them; I have been Faithful and Just in the Account and Description of Places and Things, and have omitted nothing Material; I rather chose a Plain, Intelligent, Familiar, and Manly way of Expressing myself than otherwise; and, discoursing of a Country that boasts much of her Liberty, I have even taken a pretty deal myself.  
I have made some few Reflections, (and those only to open the Eyes of my Countrymen, to see and pursue their own true Interest,) matter of Fact being what chief I aimed at, and what most obliges the Sensible and Ingenious.  
The Consideration of Obliging my Native Country, has prevailed upon me to let these Papers peep abroad; there needs no Apology for them, they will speak for themselves: They are New, Choice, and very Curious Observations; if they please, so; if not, 'tis all one to the Collector, for he values neither Frowns or Smiles, Censures or Praises of this ill-natured and ingrateful Age.   

THE DELIGHTS OF Holland, etc.  
THE fourteenth of August we took Post for Harwich, 
Anno 1695.  where we arrived in the Evening; it reigned from seven till two next Morning, so that we could not get on board the Pacquet-Boat that Night, but at four the next Morning we embarked, and were immediately under Sail, the Wind very fair, being West-Nor-West, it blew a fresh Gale, and continued with little variation till the next Day when we arrived at Helovet slyice about eight in the Morning, having had a very good Passage, being but twenty eight hours on the Water. We stayed here that whole day, which we spent in walking up and down and viewing the Fortifications of that Place, which are pretty strong, towards the River, tho' there's a very small Guard kept here; the Water is deep here, and hither they bring their biggest Men of War, which are built at Rotterdam, and lay them up, having a very good Harbour, amongst others was a Ship of 112 Guns, called the Prince of Orange which was never at Sea, being Crank-sided, as the Tarpaulins call it; that is, would not bear Sail well. This is a lousy, sorry Village, and a very cutthroat Place, for they make us pay what they please; but, indeed, 'tis no other than all the Seaports ever did and will do, as well in England and France, as Holland, tho' here all Places are alike; 'tis a pretty, neat, well-built Place, Houses of Brick, and uniform; here they have Magazines of Naval Stores. Our Pacquet-Boats formerly went to the Briel, but now being bigger, of greater force, because of the War, and drawing more Water, they come to this Place, as do the Men of War that convoy his Majesty to and from Holland. We had little to remark here More than what is mentioned, only a pleasant Adventure, of a parcel of English Gentlemen that had never been abroad before, when they first came on shore here, they went to the best House for Accommodation, and immediately fell to kissing and feeling the Maids, which is not so customary here, as at home, the Servants would not come near 'em, but sputtered in Dutch, which they understood not, the Mistress did so too, the mad English Sparks they swore, and huft, they'd be gone out of the House, which they did, but they would not receive them at any other, so they came back again, and gave us opportunity to laugh at 'em; we told them their Frolicks would not go down in this Country. Hence we went by Land to the Briel in a Wagon, which is very uneasy, and noisy too, for our Heads were hardly settled after the tossing we had at Sea, where most of us cleaned our Stomaches very well, but these Wagons rattle and make such a noise, that almost made our Heads ache; they drive with a pair of Horse's abreast, without Harness, but in ordinary Jeers, and travel constantly three mile an hour, not more, nor less, which makes them reckon the Distances of Places by the Hour, and not by the League, or Mile. This Town lies about half a League from the mouth of the Maese, (a famous River, like our Thames) 'tis well fortified, pretty well peopled, about three thousand Families, Houses indifferently well built, Streets well paved, cleanly and broad; Canals run through part of it, with rows of Trees on each side, pleasant Meadows lie about it, but the Air is not healthful, being thick and foggy, and too near the Sea. Here was the Foundation of this famous Commonwealth laid, for this was the first Place that revolted against Spain, her ancient Lord, in the Year 1572. It is of great Consequence, having the command of all Ships and Vessels, in their Passage to Rotterdam, etc. It was one of the Cautionary Towns put in the Possession of Queen Elizabeth, and restored to the Hollanders by King James the First, her Successor. We stayed two Days here, walking about and viewing the Fortifications, and the whole City, which is but small; the Walls are part Brick, part Earth, two English Miles in Circumference; there are several Pieces of Brass Cannon mounted upon Carriages upon all the Points; four Gates, with two Draw-Bridges to each, and Bulwarks to plant Cannon upon; there has been four Ravelins, and some Outworks, but we could see but one standing, which by the Form we guessed to be so, for 'tis out of repair, and so is the whole Wall, which, in a War with England, is put into a better Condition, with a good Garrison, but they apprehend no Danger from the French; the Land about it produces good Corn, but not much: The People here are less Courteous than those that live in the great Trading-Towns, (tho' you are not to expect great Civility from the Dutch, who pretend not to much breeding,) some say, the grossness of the Air influences them in their Manners, and that the Moon, who governs them, (Cancer being their Ascendent) makes them Clownish; but of this there is no certainty; tho' the Seamen of all Nations are observed to be as rough, surly, and ill-natured as the Element they live upon: And if the Water has Influence, why not the Air? Here is a pretty little Stadt-House, or Guild-Hall, as we call it in London, and a good Church founded Anno 1372, by the Countess Matilda for them, and another Church for the English, an Hospital for Orphans, a good Marketplace, and an old and new Haven. Rotterdam has got away all the Trade from the Briel. About ten in the Forenoon we took Scout (which is a little Boat with a Sail, and goes every hour, the Bell ringing to give Notice to Passengers, as it does in other Places,) for Maezlandsluyce, a little Fisher-Town, a League from the Briel, half an Hours sail with the Wind, an hour and half against it; 'tis a pleasant Place; they have within these few Years built a very good Church there; before this Place lie a great many Busses, or Fishing-Vessels, which is their chief Trade, and by which they done't only live, but grow rich, as we in England might do, if we were not infatuated; most of their Busses were gone out to Sea, to catch Herrings on the English Coast, because the English are so lazy they won't catch 'em themselves. About half Seas over we were met by some Friends of ours, Dutch Merchants, who came from Amsterdam on purpose to receive us, which they did with all the demonstrations of Love and Joy; we went ashore together, and got to the best House, and fell aboard the pickled Herring, which was extraordinary good; we made 'em swim in Rhenish Wine, of which we let down a good quantity. Here we hired a Wagon to carry us to Rotterdam, which in our way we passed through.  
VLAERDINGEN, 
Ulaerdingen.  a League off, a small Village, a Fisher-Place, 'twas anciently a City, and well fortified, but ruined by lying so near the River Maese, which broke in upon it. A League further lies Schedam, a small City, which has a Vote amongst the States, and is called the Oldest, Boldest, Wisest, and was the Richest in ancient Times, wonderfully Courageous were the Inhabitants against the Spaniards; now famous for the Fishery, and making of Nets to catch Fish. Three or four English Miles further along the same River lies Delphs-howen, a small Town, nothing but Fishermen and Mariners live here: This Place, with small Charge, might be made impregnable, (as may many others in this Country) by reason of its situation near so much Water.  
Half a League from hence is Rotterdam, a great, strong, fine, 
Rotterdam.  and very rich City, one of the most celebrated Ports of Europe, the Second for Trade in this Province, lying very commodiously upon the River Maese, has great Commerce with England, Scotland, France, (when in Peace) and Ireland, and is much concerned in great and small Fishery, a very flourishing Place: Here are divers Canals cut, which are so well contrived and kept, that the greatest Ships can enter, and there lie securely; and some Ships of two and three hundred Tuns are brought up into the middle of the Town, where the Goods are delivered at the Merchant's Doors, which is a very great conveniency. Erasmus, the greatest Restorer of Learning, was born in this City Anno Dom. 1467, he died in Friburg in Alsatia: Remarkable was the Gratitude of this People, who to preserve his Name and Memory, have at their Charge set up his Effigies in Brass, well done, with a great Book in his Hand (the Leaves of which he turns over as oft as he hears the Clock strike, which forsooth is a Piece of Dutch Wit.) This Statue was erected, as they told us, in 1564, and roughly handled by the Spaniards in 1572. 'tis now railed in with Iron. This City is now wholly at the Devotion of the Prince of Orange, (now our King) the People being passionate and zealous Lovers of his Person and Interest, which they express to the highest upon all Occasions. Here they brew good Beer, which is sent to the Cities and Villages all round about; they also serve the State's Armies and Navies with it. Turf and Wood is their firing, the first is cheap, the second dear, and is burnt by the better sort only. As we came near any of their Towns we distinguished an odd smell, which comes from the Turf, and is unpleasant, and we believe unwholesome; 'tis stronger than that of Newcastle Coal in London. These People are generally more obliging to the English than in any other Place, which is to be wholly attributed to their frequent Conversation, and Dealing with them. Here they build very great Ships of War, of a hundred Guns, and downward. We went on board some of the biggest, and viewed them well within, and without; they are not so cleaverly and neatly built as the English, nor so fit for Accommodation, but more clumsy, but then very strong, and sit for Service, plain Paint, and without any Guilding, and very little Carving, which is a superfluous and unnecessary Expense; and which the English and French were once very vain in, tho' 'tis now almost worn out of Practice, especially the Guilding, which may be proper for Yachts and Pleasure-Boats, but not for Men of War. We saw their Stadt-House or Guild-Hall, which is a very good Building, and Saint Lawrence's Church, which is a great one, in it a very large old Organ, the Dutch Presbyterians being not so nice and squeemish as the English, who inveigh against the Use of that Music in Churches: In this Church are the Monuments of several great Sea-Commanders. The English, Scotch, and French, have also each a Church here. Here is an open Place for the Merchants to meet in, which they call the Exchange, but no noble Piazza's to secure 'em from the Wether, as at London. We stayed here several Days, and sometimes dined at the English, sometimes at the Dutch, and French Houses. The Ordinaries are the best and cheapest Places to eat at, for than you know your Expense, which otherwise is at the Will and Pleasure of your Landlord, who Arbitrarily imposes upon you; and this without redress, for if you complain to the Magistrate, he will give it against you, and you must pay it; they know you are led by Curiosity to pass through, to view their Country, not to live in it, and you must contribute to the Support of it. The Dutch are ill Cooks, and verify the Proverb, That God sends Meat, and the Devil the Dresser. They have abundance of Soups and Slops, very insipid, they roast and boil all to Rags, so that you don't know what sort of Flesh 'tis when it comes to the Table. The French err a little on that side, but then they make some amends with their Sauces, which are toothsome, tho' hardly wholesome; that being the best Diet, which is the simplest and most agreeable to Nature; so that we all agreed in this, That the English way of Boiling, Roasting, and Broiling, with preserving the Gravy, (which is the best Sauce) is the best in the World.  
To DELFT we went next, 
Delft.  betwixt which Place and Rotterdam is a great Magazine of Gunpowder for the State's Service, 'tis a well-built Brick House with a Drawbridge, and a Moat all round it, which is wisely contrived, that if it should by any Accident (which sometimes happens) blow up, it cannot do any other Damage; for 'tis dangerous to lodge great Magazines (as in the Tower of London) near great and populous Cities. This very City of Delft was grievously shattered by the blowing up of the great Magazine of Powder kept there Anno 1654., which occasioned the building the aforesaid House.  
Delft is a fair and populous City, very clean, well built, and very pleasant; well seated in a Plain of Meadows, which may be laid all round under Water, if they open their Sluices, when the Wind is East-North-East. At the Entrance of it stands a general Magazine of Warlike Stores (but no Powder) for the Public Service. This City was burnt to Ashes Anno 1536, but soon rebuilt, and now in greater Glory than ever. The East-India Company of this Place have here a very good House and large Warehouses; as also an eighth part of the Great or General Stock, this being the Third Town of Holland, having the Third Voice in the States, whither it sends Deputies, as also to all the other Colleges. Here are very fine Buildings, and amongst them the Town-House, with these two Verses on the Front.  
Haec domus odit, amat, punit, conservat, honorat,  
Nequitiam, Pacem, Crimina, Jura, Probos.  
Here is a spacious Marketplace between this House and the great Church, in which stands William the First Prince of Orange (Great Grandfather to his Sacred Majesty King William) at full length, in Armour, in Copper Effigy; at each corner of this Monument stands Justice, Prudence, Temperance, and Valour, all in Copper, and very large; and besides this, the Prince lies at length in Marble, with a Dog (having had his Life once saved by a Dog) at his Feet, all under Marble Pyramids: 'Tis the most Magnificent Tomb in all the Seventeen Provinces. Here that Prince kept his Court, and here was that brave Prince assassinated in the 51st Year of his Age, being shot by a Pistol with three Bullets, as he risen from the Table, by one Balthasar Gerrard, a Burgundian, so that he died without having time to say any more than, Lord have Mercy on my Soul and this poor People. The Murderer pretended to be a Protestant, and Son of one who had suffered for his Religion; by which he insinuated himself into the Prince's Favour, who employed and entrusted him in Business of Importance: The Villain never offered to get off, but was taken and pinched to death with hot Irons, his Flesh being first slashed with a Knife, and so Piece by Piece torn off with hot Pincers; he died obstinate, and said, If it were to do again, he would do it.  
In the t'other Church is a Monument of Admiral Trump's, enriched with Miniature, and a fine Inscription: 'Tis a stately one, with the Arms of his Family hanging in Frames over it: 'Twas erected at the States Charge, in acknowledgement, for the good Service he did his Country.  
In the same Church is Mine Here Pithin's Tomb, a very handsome one: He was a Dutch Admiral, and took the Plate-Fleet from the Spaniards. The Churches here, and in all the Seven united-provinces, are generally bigger than ours in England, but fewer in Number.  
Here is a large and neat Market, or Flesh-Hall (as they call it) for all sorts of Butcher's Meat, which they have very good, and in great plenty, and not dear truly; which I the rather mention, because they who have not travelled, upbraid the Dutch with living upon Onions, Roots, Herb, Milk, and pickled Herrings, and say, they have no Flesh, and rarely eat any; 'tis true, they aae sparing, and I believe 'tis the better for their Health; for the devouring abundance of Flesh must needs fill our Bodies with many hot and gross Humours, and consequently impair our Health. They have also a good Fishmarket here, and another of Fruits, Roots, and Herbs.  
The People in this City are rich, trade much to Sea, and make much Porcelain, or fine Earthen Wares, to a great Perfection, tho' far short of China, which they pretend to resemble, and brew good Beer here; but the Remark we made in general of their Beer (of which they have many sorts, as Rotterdam Beer, Dort, English Beer, white Beer, sweet Beer, Breda Beer, etc.) is, That tho' they have an Art of refining it, so that it looks (some of it) very clear, yet it tastes insipid, and indeed is but weak, compared to the English, having little or no relish of the Malt.  
From hence we went to the Hague, which is three Miles, or an Hour farther, a Village, as 'tis generally called, but a very beautiful one, the finest in the World, agreed by all Travellers: The very Italians themselves confess it, who may justly boast of the best Buildings in the World, tho' there are some of that Nation that choose to live here rather than at home, saying, this is the pleasantest Place in the World; tho' we must own we are not altogether of their Opinion. It is certainly the finest Village in Europe, and much exceeding many Cities in Bigness, and Beauty. In this Place it was that the States by their Edict Anno 1586, abrogated the Authority of Philip the Second King of Spain, and held a Conference upon the Five Articles of the Remonstrants, An. 1610, which brought about the calling of the Synod of Dort, so famed in Story. The Princes of Orange used to keep their Courts here, till the present Prince William ascended the English Throne. The Earls of Holland had their Residence here, and founded the Prince's House, which is a good old Brick-Building, with a Court before it, for the Foot-Guards to draw up in, and lodge or ground their Arms in. Here the State's General, the States Provincial, the Court of Holland, the High-Council Court of Brabrant, and the Council of State assemble; but that Chamber which deserves most Notice, and a particular Description, is where the States of Holland meet, which is indeed a very fine, spacious, lofty Room, with very fine Hang round, which touch the very Ceiling, with their Arms curiously wove in them, made on purpose for them; some People of most Nations are also wove in these Hang, as if looking over Galleries; which, when the Room is a little darkened, which is done by the Servant that shows it, the better to represent it, appears as if they were all alive, nodding of their Heads and talking to one another. The Ceiling itself is painted very finely, by an Italian Master; as also the Two Chimney-Pieces, in which are represented Peace and War, very curiously; the first is Venus, a very beautiful Woman, with a pure white Dove on her Lap, with other Emblems of Peace about her; the second is Mars, or a Soldier completely armed, with a Plume of Feathers on his Head-piece, trampling on a great open Book, all bloody, on which is writ in large Letter, PRIVELEGIA. The Seats are all railed in; that of the Princes, is an Elbow-chair at the upper-end of the Table; about which (on Chairs with Backs) sits the Knighthood of Holland, who have but one Vote, which each City that sends Deputies has; and at the lower-end sits the Pensioner, who is Keeper of the Great Seal and Secretary, as they told us, before whom lies a small wooden Hammer, which when he knocks with, is that their Debates cease, and they be silent. The Seats of the Deputies of the several Cities are on Benches, or Forms; every Seat has a Cushion of green Cloth, (with which the Seats and Table is covered) with the Arms of that City or Town on it, for which they serve, or which they represent: At the upper-end of this noble Room, on each side of that Chimney, is a distinct Place for the two Secretaries, on which lie great Books, to take the Minutes.  
The united-provinces are so called, from their Union at Vtrecht, Anno 1579. They are commonly (but confusedly and improperly) all called Holland, that being the richest and most populous Province of them all, and indeed worth them all, and therefore for its Excellency it swallows up in its Name the t'other six; and, indeed, it contributes to the charge of the War, and the support of the State, and the preservation of their Lands from the Sea, by vast and expensive Dykes, or Banks, far beyond what all the other do, put together; of a Hundred Livers, it pays Fifty nine and a half, which is very considerable; but than it is the great Trading Province. These Provinces, which before owned Subjection to the King of Spain, and were wonderfully Loyal to their Prince, Lovers of his Person, and Zealous for his Interest, till he fell in upon their Establishments, their Religious and Civil Rights, have since been Independent of one another, or to speak strictly and more properly, are Seven Commonwealths, which altogether now make but one, under the Name of, The State's General of the United-Provinces of the Low-Countries: The Dignity of this Republic residing in the State's General, but the absolute Authority in and over all Things reserved, by reason of the Alliance, has remained in the States of each Province; and this is that which they call the Sovereignty. The Seal of this formidable Commonwealth is a Lion, holding a bundle of seven bound Arrows, alluding to as many confederated Provinces. There is no State in being, of so small an extent, which has so great a Number of Fortresses, and which seems better defended by the Nature of the Places than this. It has the Sea, and several Rivers to secure it: The Rhine, the Maese, the Waal, and the Issell. Of these seven united-provinces there are four towards the West, Holland, Zealand, Vtrecht, and Guelderland; three towards the East, Overyssel, Friesland, and Groninghen. In their Assemblies, the Provinces thus give their Votes, Guelderland first of all, then Holland, Zealand, Vtrecht, Friesland, Overyssel, last Groninghen. Each of 'em sends its Deputies to this Place, (viz. the Hague) where are formed three Colleges, or Assemblies of them; the State's General, the Council of State, and the Chamber of Accounts. In the Assemblies of the State's General, all the Provinces abovementioned must consent, in general, and in particular, to the Resolutions that are taken therein, and do not follow the Plurality of Voices. Each Province may send thither one, two, three, four, or five Deputies, but all these Deputies have together but one Voice, and have right to preside therein but one Week: That of Guelderland gins, because it is the most ancient, and its Plenipotentiaries were the first who proposed the Union. This Province, Anno 1674, offered the Sovereignty to the Prince of Orange (now King of England,) it being the time the French King invaded them with mighty Armies, which like a Torrent overrun all, and made such surprising Conquests, that in a very short time they reduced three Provinces, and between fifty and sixty considerable Towns; but their Progress was stopped, and they repelled by the Bravery and Conduct of the Prince of Orange, who new modelled the State's Armies, and from raw, inexpert, and undisciplined Soldiers, and bad Officers, (raised by the Favour and Interest of the Burgo-Masters and Principal Magistrates) made them very formidable to their Enemies, and snatched the Laurels from the greatest Generals of the Age, at the Head of the best Troops, and recovered part of their Losses, and had the rest resigned by the Peace Anno 1678.  
The Admiralty has five Sessions, (and as many Magazines,) which are those of Rotterdam, Amsterdam, Enkuysen, Midleburg, and Harlingen: The three first in Holland, the fourth in Zealand, and the fifth in Friesland. The whole Care and Management of these several Admiralties is committed to Men of great Ability and Integrity, conversant in Maritime Affairs, and of great Experience in Matters relating to their Office, viz. building of Ships, buying of Stores and Naval Provisions, equipping single Ships, Squadrons, or Fleets appointing Convoys, etc. These Officers, as indeed all others, throughout their whole Government, have but small Pensions or Salaries, the States being very sparing of the Public moneys; but however, the Servants and Ministers of this Commonwealth live accordingly, that is, are prudent and thrifty in the Management of their private Fortune, modest and plain in their Habit, without the Pomp of Coaches, or great Trains, or large Houses, or costly feeding, or high drinking, complying with the custom of their Country, and contenting themselves with simple Diet; no Fricassee's, Ragou's, or Grilliades, but a good Dish of Cabilliau, Codfish, of which the Dutch in general are great Admirers. There seems to be a natural and habitual Probity amongst the Officers of this State.  
Here are some Remains of their ancient Nobility, some Branches of the Bredreodes, the Wassenaers, and the Egmont's; this Nobility has ever voted there the first, tho' (as I said before) it has but one Voice together, whereas the Eighteen Cities of the same Provinces, have there each one, with the Sovereignty bound by Alliance.  
Most of the Towns in this Province are beautiful and pleasant, having been built in the last Age.  
Fronting the Prince's House stands a great Hall, resembling (tho' not so big as) Westminster-Hall, full (like that) of Booksellers, and Toy-Shops. Here is kept (in a Chamber at the further end) the High Court of Justice, from which no Appeals are granted, and to which all are made. The Civil or Roman Law is in practice all over these Countries. This Village has no Vote among the States, not because 'tis a Village, for there are several Cities have no Votes, but because they did not send Deputies to Vtrecht, when the Union was upon the Anvil.  
The Hague pays more Excise for Wine and other Liquors, than Amsterdam, Rotterdam, and Dort, three great Cities, put together, as they told us; and it has the face of Truth, for here is the great concourse of Travellers, Nobility, Gentry, Foreign Ambassadors, Envoys, Residents, etc. And now, (and for some Years past) of the Congress, these are the Winebibbers, for the common Dutch are satisfied with a soapy of Brandywine, a Dram of that Liquor does their Business better, it keeps out the Cold and the Fogs, quickens them, and makes them fit for Action; and, indeed, they seem to have some occasion for it, for they are naturally slow and heavy, but then very diligent and constant, else 'twould have been impossible to have finished such great Works as they to their Honour, and the Safety of their Country have happily achieved. And indeed strong and spirituous Liquors seem to me to be more necessary for, as well as natural to this Nation, conducing mightily to the conservation of their Health, which must needs be fluctuating, where the Air is so foul: Their Country is a Bog, a Marsh, full of Vapours and Fogs, which are Earthy, and Sulphureous, and send forth unpleasant and unwholesome Scents; and therefore their frequent Tippling aught not to be charged on them as a Crime, especially by a Neighbour-Nation (the English) who have a better Country, and a better Air, and are in their own Natures more lively, brisk, and pert, having more Heat, more Fire within, are as Choleric as the t'other Phlegmatic, drudge not like them, therefore want not the like Supports, being lazy and idle People, choosing rather (some of 'em) to starve than work. Besides, they Bumper it but seldom, and at set, and upon solemn Occasions, and then forbear a good while, or at least some time, but my Countrymen, to their shame, are always Sotting and Drunkening, toiling at it, and valuing themselves upon making one another Drunk; indeed, 'tis a noble Achievement to Fuddle the whole Company: 'Tis a glorious Conquest to leave 'em all slain upon the Floor, (as they call it.) Now the bearing of much strong Liquor is an argument of a thick Skull rather than otherwise, which I find few very fond of, at lest none would have it if they could help it.  
In the Afternoon we hired a Coach, a very genteel one, and the Coachman in a good Habit, of grey, resembling a Livery, with a pair of handsome, fat, well-kept Horses; we agreed with him to wait upon us the whole Afternoon, which he did, for about Eight Shillings Sterling; and first carried us to the Prince's House in the Bosch or Wood, about two Miles from the Hague; 'tis a very pretty well-built (tho' old) Box, (as we call small Seats in England) with good Gardens, tho' not now very well kept; at the Entrance of this House stand Four whole Marble Effigies of William the First, Maurice his Brother, Henry, and William the Second, (the present King of Great Britain's Father,) all Princes of Orange, very curiously done. Directly forwards is a lofty, well-painted, well-guilt, well-floored small Hall, with a Gallery for Music all round the top of it, and three or four small lodging Rooms below, and several very good ones above, one Closet of all true Indian Japan, made of Cabinets or Chests taken in pieces; 'tis three Yards long, and one and a half broad. The Wall and Ceilings all round beautified with curious Paintings, representing the Actions of Frederick Henry, Prince of Orange. The Wood in which this little House (fit only for Banqueting, or a Supper in the cool of a Summer's Evening, or, indeed, a retreat with a Mistress) stands is very pleasant, and with cost might be made much more delightful. There is a pretty deal of Ground about it, and well wooded, but has no Deer, or any other Game.  
As we came back we rid by the Mall or Mell, much like that in St. James' Park, but not so neat, or well kept, being not so much frequented. Then we were driven back through part of the Hague to Schevelin, (upon a fine smooth way, paved all with Bricks, and planted on each side with Trees, to make it pleasant, which was done at vast Expense, being before all sandy Hills,) a little Village about two Miles from thence, famed in Story for the Embarkation of Charles the Second King of England, when he went to take Possession of his Three Crowns, from which he had been long kept by the Usurper Oliver Cromwell. 'Tis a little Fisher-Place; we rid along the shore two or three Hours, in view of the Ocean or Main-Sea, where we observed some Wrecks on that Coast.  
Between Schevelin and the Hague is a House of Mine Here Bentink's, (now Earl of Portland) it is but an ordinary old Piece of Building, tho' his Lordship has lately added some new Lodgings to it, but the Gardens are new and very extraordinary; there is a very fine Orangerie, and a new well-built Room or Green-house to preserve them in Winter, and in the middle and at each end a great Stove, in which great Fires are kept during the extreme cold Wether. In the middle of the new Garden is a fine Oval Fountain. The Garden is made up like a Half-Moon, full of fine Flower-Pots: In the old Garden is a neat Aviary, and a small Moat with Fowl in it, fine Walks and Figures, and a Summer-House built upon an Artificial Rock.  
Amongst the Principal Buildings in the Hague, the House built by Prince Maurice claims the first Rank, for 'tis a stately One, of Modern Structure. Here Charles the Second, King of Great Britain, was lodged and treated by the States when his Majesty came from Breda to embark for England, Anno 1660. The Dukes of Brandenburg, Saxony, and others of the Illustrious Germane Princes, when they come to the Hague on Visit, or Business, are conducted hither, and remain here during their stay. In this House are the Pictures of most of the European Kings, and a great many American Rarities. In the Years 1672 and 1673, the Inhabitants were in great Pain lest the French, who were then very near them, should have made 'em a Visit, because there's no Fortifications, only a Ditch of Water: The Trees round about it were ordered to be cut down, to impede the French in their march, who, like very civil Gentlemen, came not to give them the least Disturbance; young Trees are since planted in the room of the old. The Confusion than was such, that they sent several Wagons laden with Money, and the Public Accounts, to be secured in the Stadt-House of Amsterdam.  
And much about this time was the fatal and sudden Tragedy acted on the two unhappy Brothers, John and Cornelis de Wit; the one said to be the greatest Statesman in the World; the other an Admiral, who had also served in an eminent Post in the Civil Government. The Populace rose and cut them both in Pieces, without suffering them to speak one Word for themselves; they always opposed the Interest of the House of Orange, which was the true Interest of their State, to which they were believed to be Enemies: And thus fell John de Wit, who was allowed by all to have been a very extraordinary Man, after a long Administration of the great and principal Affairs of this Republic.  
Here are a great many English, French, Scots, Germans, and some of most Nations in Europe, but more Germane and French than any.  
Near the Town stands an Iron Cage (seldom used) in which are put notorious Criminals, to be exposed to the Scorn and Contempt of the Rabble.  
We went to the new Church, built not many Years since upon the very Spot where the common Bawdy-Houses stood, which were pulled down to make way for this noble Structure: A happy Conversion! Houses of Filth and Uncleanness turned into a House of Prayer! 'Tis adorned with Officers Arms, and Escutcheons of the Nobility and Gentry. They call it an Oval Building, but I think it almost round; it has no Pillars within, so that all the People may see as well as hear the Minister: 'Tis a large Church, and as they told us, there is not so fine a one in all the Seventeen Pronvinces; behind it is the Rag-street, where there is kept a great Rag-Market; abundance of Money is got by buying and selling that sort of mean Merchandise.  
We went hence to view the great Church, which is a good old Piece of Building, with a very high square Brick Steeple, seen afar off; here is Admiral Opdam's Monument, 'tis very Magnificent; he commanded the Dutch Fleet in an Engagement with the English, he was blown up, Ship and all; he had the Folly and Vanity to carry a Broom in his Maintop; as much as to say, he would sweep the Sea of the English, but they made a shift to send him and his Broom to take the Air; he was a bold fight Fellow, but a Man of no great Conduct.  
Then we were showed the Cloister-Church, which is a large Pile, built Anno 1399. And so to the French Church, which was formerly the Chapel of the Earls of Holland; they say, 'tis bigger than the French Church in London, but we thought not so.  
Here is an English Church, or Chapel rather, for 'tis a small one, very plain and ordinary. The Germans preach there early in the Morning, than the English, who have the English Liturgy read to 'em; the Auditors are but few, we counted about Seventy. Here are a great many fine Buildings, fit for Petty Princes, they are filled with Ambassadors, Envoys, Residents, etc.  
We hired a Coach to carry us to Honslayerdyke, one of King William's Houses; in our way thither we passed through Ryswick, a little Village, with a good Church, a Mile from the Hague; and a little farther another Village, called Watering; as also the Seats of many Country Gentlemen, pleasantly situated, with long Rows of Trees on each side the Walk which leads to the House.  
Honslaerdyke is about eight or nine Miles from the Hague, almost the same Distance as Hampton-Court from London; it is a very neat Piece of Building, Founded by Henry Prince of Orange, the King's Grandfather, about sixty or seventy Years ago; 'tis a pretty Square, with a Bass-Court, and very handsome Moat all round it: King William has lately added some new Lodgings to it. Here was always a Guard of Horse and Foot Soldiers without, and Swissers within Doors, who are lusty swinging Fellows, with black frizzing Hair and great Whiskers, they wear flat Caps and Cloaks, and look big and handsomely for a Guard, when the King was here.  
The Gardens that belong to this House are not extraordinary, they are well made up and neatly kept; in the middle stands a Fountain, eight Leaden gilt Statues, and three or four Stone Images about it. Here are many and long Walks, adorned with Trees, which front the House, and make it very pleasant: Two small Parks with low Pails, and shallow Ditches about them; a few Deer; we observed no difference between them and the English; here are above ten or twelve Couple of Hounds, and a very large Aviary with great variety of Birds.  
It was our fortune to converse but seldom with the Dutch, tho' many of themspeak prompt French, however we engaged in Discourse with three or four Gentlemen, led by Curiosity to see this House, who amongst other things, told us, as their Observation, That we had in England (where they said they had been) three sorts of Vermin; (we were glad to hear we had no more,) but demanding what they were, they answered, Parsons, Physicians, and Lawyers, who devour all the good Things of this World; they told us, they kept their Ministers in due Bounds, and upon the Level, there were none rich, but none poor, they had no Archbishoprics, Bishoprics, Deaneries, Prebendaries, and fat Live; the States paid their Parsons their Stipend, usually about One hundred and fifty, or two hundred Pounds Sterling per Annum; they kept to their Texts, and never meddled with their Affairs of State, or any Secular Matters, but contented themselves with Admonishing the People from their Pulpits to lead good Lives, which they themselves were good Examples of; no saucy Priests there, to thrust their Noses into, and intermeddle with other men's Business; if any of their Preachers happened at any time to make any Sallies of Zeal, and touch the States never so tenderly, they had a Staff and a clean pair of Shoes sent, and were told they must troop off.  
These Gentlemen also gave us their Sentiments of the English and Scotch Soldiers, they owned they were both Brave; that the Scots would, and the English would not work; that the first could far hard, but not the tother; the English Man must be well fed, good powdered Beef and Pudding, and good Ale was his fare, and if he had that nothing could wrong him.  
We went to the Place where they cast Cannon and Mortars; 'tis a handsome well-built House; there were several Pieces in the Mould, and a great many newly cast; as also Mortars, all fit for the Field: thence to the Magazine, where they lay up their Cannon, Mortars, etc. with the Harness and other Tackle belonging to Carriages and Wagons.  
The Streets of the Hague are very broad and clean, Houses large, and spruce without, and very neat within, even to a nicety, which is often troublesome; which chief arises from the Pride of being thought to be, and admired for a good Housewife: This Place is populous, abounding with Gentry and rich Citizens, many of which keep Coaches; in a word, the Hague is really a very pleasant and delightful Place.  
Here are a great many Markets, some of all sorts of fine Flowers, Fruits, Herbs, and Roots, in great Quantity; all which are generally larger than ours, except Colliflowers, and Artichokes, in which we really excel them; and tho' our common Cherries, red and white Currans are not so large and beautiful as theirs, yet they are much pleasanter in their taste, sweeter, to be eat without Sugar, and theirs not; they have abundance of black Currans (which we have not, here and there only in a noble Man's Garden that is curious) they have an unpleasant, Physical taste, and therefore they put them into Brandy, as we do black Cherries, and, they say, 'tis a great Cordial.  
Their Fish-Markets is well provided, and abounds with live and dead, but most of the first, for even the common People will hardly purchase the last; here is great store of Salmon, which they slice alive, for than it shrivels up, which they esteem the best; tho' we did not agree with them, for we chose a great entire Piece, and had it boiled, and with English Sauce brought up to the Table: Perch, Sols, and Flounder in great abundance, which they fell by the Pound, four Pence, five Pence, six Pence, seven Pence, and eight Pence, which is a high Price, and rarely happens, but after very hard and long Winters, and a succeeding cold Spring, and wet Summer, which destroys the Spawn, and hinders the growth and increase of Fish in general. Here are also Markets of Cheese, Butter, Baskets, Stockings, Silk, Thread, Lace, and a great many Baubles.  
Nor is the Flesh-Market here to be passed by, for there is choice of all sorts of Butcher's Meat, and very good in the Kind's; their Veal is altogether as white, and rather larger than ours; the Mutton short and tender, (seeding much upon Turnips) is sweet, but not so much in esteem (nor indeed so good) as our Bansted and Tunbridge Mutton; their Beef good, but small and thin, brought from Denmark, and not very fat, not stalled as ours; in that they fall short of us; for 'tis agreed by all Travellers, that the English is the best Beef in the World, far exceeding all, even the Irish, who have good Land, and breed good ; but the difference appears in the salting more than the sight, for no Beef endures that like ours, and that for the longest Voyages; however, to this Market at the Hague is the best in all these Provinces brought, because 'twill yield the best Price here. These People are very neat and cleanly about their Flesh, Butter, Cheese, and other Things; nay, the meanest among 'em have not only good but clean Linen. Here are two Butter-Markets, one Wholesale, t'other Retail, a great deal in each; the Dutch are not called Butter-Boxes in jest, for they eat abundance, and carry it in Pewter-Boxes, and keep it in such on board their Ships, which might give occasion to the English to call them so; in return of which, they nickname the English Starts; that is, Tails; tho', as we told them, they had little reason, for we used to see theirs oftener than they ours, having oftener beat them in Sea-Engagements than they us.  
To divert ourselves we went to see their Spin-Houses, or Bridewell, where old Women are confined for Drunkenness, and young ones for Whoredom; here's not an idle Body in this Place, some Spinning, others making Lace, others Plain-work; they come to the Barrs and hold out a Plate to beg our Charity, and there entertain us with some Liquorish Discourse. They are kept here for Weeks, Months, and Years; all according to the greatness, or smallness of their Crimes. 'Tis also a Prison for Debtors, which are not exposed to view. Here we were told a pleasant Story, the Fact thus; A young Gentleman of Amsterdam, coming by Water hither in one of their common Passage-Boats, drawn by Horses, was extremely Amorous upon a young Lady that was among the Company, and was so Importunate in his Addresses, that he was very troublesome, which obliged that Lady to give him some hopes of obtaining his desire when they came ashore, which made him quiet and easy; as soon as ever they landed, he attacked her afresh by himself; she told him, that she had business to do for her Mother, which would employ two or three Hours of her time, but that she would meet him exactly at Four at such a House, telling him the Master's Name, (which he took care not to forget) so they parted, he about his, she about her Affairs; she goes directly to this Place, and tells the Master that her Brother would be there by and by and ask for her, that he was a very Debauchee, and so very lewd, and extravagant, that her Father could not tell what to do with him, but sent her to desire him to receive him into his Care, and give him the Discipline of the House, (this was a private Bridewell, or House of Correction,) which he thought might reduce him. The amorous Youth arrived at the limited Minute, and ask for such a Lady, he was admitted, but presently confined to a Chamber, and (according to the laudable Custom) disciplined, and told that was all the Sport he must expect here; they kept him a Fortnight or three Weeks, and cooled him, and so let him out.  
In the Hague is a very good Alms-House, given by a private Gentleman; 'tis a handsome well-built Square, pretty Apartments, and Gardens to each, with all manner of Conveniencies; here are Threescore Women, half Protestants, half Papists: The reason of this mixture is, The Founder, who was of the Reformed Religion, died before they were finished, and left the Perfecting of the Work, and Management of the Revenues, to a Roman Catholic, who put in half of his own Religion.  
The old Buildings here are all of Brick; of which they have three sorts, whitish, palish red, and deep red, better worked up and burnt than ours. Their new Buildings are of Stone, and Stone and Brick; magnificent, noble, and great, lofty Ceilings, large Windows, very good French Glass, but they have not Sashes yet, being not so great Apes of Imitation as their Neighbours the French and English. One would think Marble grew here; that is, that there were great and vast Quarries of it in this Country, for rich and poor, old and new Houses, have all their first Floors paved with black and white Marble; not course and ordinary, but very good of the Kind, with great Variety in the manner of laying it: Nay, tho' Italy, whence it comes, be nearer France, yet the present French King bought most of his Marble, for the famed Building at Versailles, at Amsterdam. Much Guilding, and Carving; the first, upon Leather, with which they hang many of their Rooms, both above and below Stairs, and cover Chairs; and also gild their Window-Shutters: Their Carving is in Stone at the Front of their Houses. And so much for the Hague, where we stayed a great while, and where we could hardly ever be tired or cloyed with abiding.  
I have been the more Particular in giving an Account of this Place, and of every Thing that is remarkable in it, because 'tis so very much talked of by all Travellers in general. I had like to have omitted a House (belonging to the Illustrious House of Nassaw, built by Prince Frederick, Henry, King William's Grandfather,) called Ryswick, not far from the Hague, which we were so curious to take a view of; 'tis a very good Piece of Building, all Front, with a spacious Court before it, the Ceiling richly Gild, and the Chimney-Pieces, except two or three, which are Marble, with Pillars of the same; Floors of black and white Marble; good Gardens, but neglected.  
And now having resolved to take our leave of the Hague, we went on board the Trecht Schuyt, or Passage-Boat, which is very large, and will contain between thirty and forty People, covered with a Tarpaulin, (a Piece of Canvas dipped in Tar, or Oil,) which in wet Wether keeps out the Rain, and in hot the Sun; which is to be thrown up, to let in the Air when they please; a single Horse draws this Vessel, rid by a Boy, who has a long slender Rope fastened to his Jeers, and runs, or rather trots along upon the Dykes or Banks, three Miles, or a League an Hour constantly, stays for no Body, but puts off every Hour, just as the Clock has done striking; the Fare is very reasonable; this way of Travelling from Town to Town is very convenient, and tends mightily to the advancement of Commerce, and dispatch of Business, or Visits. When you are upon these Canals on which these Boats float, you cast your Eyes from the Water as from a Precipiece down to the Land, for so much higher is the Water in these Countries than the Land, which chief consists of Marshes, full of Mills, of several sorts, the most that we ever saw flying in our lives; the Prospect is pleasant: The Dutch are great Improvers of Land, and Planters of Trees, of Ornament as well as Profit.  
In our Way to Leyden we past Voorbroock, and Woorsconack, two small Villages; and several Country-Houses, belonging to Gentlemen, or rich Citizens, made pleasant with Rows of Trees, and fine Walks before them.  
About seven in the Afternoon we came to LEYDEN, 
Leyden.  about nine Miles from the Hague, 'tis a very fair, large and rich City, in the Province of Holland; it stands on the River Rhine, (which divides it into thirty one Islands, joined by one hundred and forty five Bridges, whereof one hundred and four are of Stone,) and loses itself in the Sand, where endeavours have been, to no purpose, used to make a Seaport; 'tis but seven Miles from Rotterdam, and twenty one from Amsterdam; Leyden is said, by some, to be the Eye, by others, the Garden of Holland, by reason of the cleanness of its Streets, and the beauty of its Buildings; 'tis celebrated for its Antiquity, for its fine Impressions, and famed University, which was founded Anno 1575., adorned with a very good Library, a Physick-Garden, abounding with great variety of choice and excellent Simples, brought with great care, and much trouble, from Foreign Parts, very remote: Here is also an Anatomical Gallery, which contains a great many Rarities, the Gifts of several Princes, and eminent Men; the Particulars of which are as follow, viz. 

The Head of an Elephant; the Gift of Dr. Sopii.  
The Head of an Elk; the Gift of Dr. Job Paludarii.  
The Skin and Horn of the Head of a Rhinoceros.  
The Skin and Horns of a White-Heart.  
A Crocodile, the four Feet of an Elephant; the Gift of Justus Heurnius.  
Some Indian Darts.  
A Trumpet made of the Rinds of Trees in Moscovy.  
A Muscovian Bow.  
The Skin of an Animal inhabiting Brazil, called Tamandua Popo; the Gift of Prince Maurice.  
The Snout of an unknown Fish from Brazil; the Gift of Dr. George Pison.  
A Pair of Polonian Boots.  
A Leopard's Skin.  
A Pair of Laplander's Breeches.  
The bristly Skin of a Brazilian Beast; the Gift of Prince Maurice.  
The Skin of a Piger; a very slow Animal, mentioned by Pliny.  
The Horn of an Ondland Ox.  
A Muscovian Monk's Hood.  
A Cithern, which the Cossacks, lightly armed, make use of.  
A Pair of Moscovian Breeches, and a Coat.  
A Pair of Stilts or Skates, with which the Norwegians, Laplanders, and Frieslanders run down high snowy Mountains, with almost an incredible switness; the Gift of Arnold Williams.  
The Head of an Elephant; the Gift of Adrian Pauwe.  
The Sceleton of a Dog.  
An Heron, a Bird whose Dung burns what it touches.  
A Leathern Boot, brought from the straits, of St. David's.  
The Sceleton of a Bird, called a Shoveler.  
The Bone of the hinder part of a large old Whale; the Gift of Adrian Pauwe.  
The Bone of a Whale's Snout.  
The Sceleton of a young Whale, taken out of the old One's belly.  
The Hide of a Sea-Horse.  
The Skin of an Alce, a wild Beast like a Deer.  
The Teeth of a Whale.  
The Snout of a Fish, having Teeth in the form of a Saw, and is therefore called a Saw-Fish.  
The Sceleton of a Bear.  
The Sceleton of a Cow.  
The Sceleton of a Wolf.  
The Sceleton of a Baboon.  
The Sceleton of an Ass; upon which sits a Woman that killed her Daughter.  
The Sceleton of an Ape.  
The Sceleton of a Cat.  
The Sceleton of a Buck Goat.  
The Sceleton of a Woman of seventeen Years of Age, who murdered her Son.  
The Sceleton of a large Bear.  
The Sceleton of a Hog; the Gift of Dr. Bills.  
The Sceleton of a Hart.  
The Sceleton of a Horse.  
The Sceleton of a large Piger; the Gift of Piso.  
The Lepor Marinus, a Fish inhabiting the mddiest part of the Sea, and casteth Snot out of his Mouth.  
The Sceleton of a Sheep-stealer of Haerlem, hanged.  
The Sceleton of a Pirate.  
The Sceleton of a Ferret.  
The Sceleton of a Sheep; the Gift of Dr. Bills.  
The Sceleton of a gelded Buck Goat.  
The Sceleton of a Woman, called Catherine of Hamburg, strangled for Theft.  
The Sceleton of an Ape.  
The Sceleton of a Man (sitting upon an Ox) executed for stealing of Cattle; the Gift of Dr. Bills.  
The Sceleton of a Greyhound.  
The Sceleton of a Dog.  
The Sceleton of a Man that hanged himself.  
The Sceleton of an Otter, and of a large Greyhound.  
The Covering of a great Mumie, upon which is engraven the Effigies of Ceres.  
A young Elephant's Head.  
A Ferret; an unknown Sea-Fish.  
A Sea Hedgehog.  
The Head of a Wild Boar.  
The Sceleton of a Lapwing.  
A Beast called Tatou; the Gift of Prince Maurice.  
The Sceleton of a Squirrel.  
The Head of a Sea-Calf.  
The Snout of a large Saw-Fish.  
A Whale's Yard.  
The Skin of a Man tanned.  
The Entrails of a Man.  
An East-Indian Tiger; the Gift of Prince Carpenter, Governor in the East-Indies, a Surgeon.  
The Effigies of a Prussian Peasant, who swallowed a Knife of ten Inches in length, which was cut out of his Stomach, and he lived eight Years afterwards; the Gift of Dan. Becker.  
A Piger; the Gift of Prince Maurice.  
Two Bones grown to the Backbone.  
A Norway House, built of Balcks, or Beams, without Mortar, Brick, or Stone.  
The Sceleton of an Eagle.  
The Beard of a young Whale.  
A Panther.  
The Snout of a Fish called Piscis Serratus.  
A Chair of a Root of a Tree naturally grown so, from Amboyna; the Gift of Peter de Carpentier.  
The Skin of a Ray, or Skate, from Angola, a Kingdom of Ethiopia.  
The Sceleton of a Badger.  
The Bladder of a Man containing four stoop, (which is something above two English Gallons) of Water.  
A Formica Vorans, or Pismire Eater; the Gift of Pr. Maurice.  
A Crocodile; the Gift of Prince Maurice.  
The Entrails of a Man, of which is made a shirt; the Gift of Mr. John Leeuven.  
A Sea Dog.  
Some Tyger's Skins; the Gift of Prince Maurice.  
The Skin of a Man dressed as Parchment.  
A Surgeon's Instrument, called Glosso Comion; that is, an Instrument in which broken Pieces are set, and bound up.  
A large Indian Crab. A Sea Calf.  
A Civet Cat; the Gift of Dr. Theod. Gool.  
The Skin of an East-Indian Dog.  
A Sea Starling.  
The skin of a large Serpent.  
The skin of a Woman.  
The Intestines and stomach of a Man.  
A Tiger from the East-Indies.  
A Beast called Tatou.  
A huge Serpent, upon which hang a Man's and a Hog's stomach; the Gift of Prince Maurice.  
Warlike Arms used in China.  
A Whale's Operator.  
A great Falchion, or hooked Sword of the Chinese.  
Certain human Bones grown together.  
The Head of a Swordfish, a known Enemy to the Whale; the Gift of Dr. Sam. Bloemaert.  
The Sceleton of a Coney.  
A Sea Hedgehog.  
A Fish, called Orbis Piscis, which is Libra Can. with a great Belly of a Chesnut-colour, and is unsavoury Meat.  
The Sceleton of a large Coney.  
The Head of a wild Boar.  
The Sceleton of a Swan.  
The Sceleton of a Cock.  
The Sceleton of a Pigeon.  
A Shield made of a large Sea Tortoise-shell; the Gift of John ab Ilpendam.  
A kind of Baboon, called by the Dutch a Bosh Manneken.  
Four or five Chinese Songs; the Gift of P. de Carpentier.  
Two Horses Hides of the same Nation.  
The Bone of a Whale's Tail.  
A strange Sea-Fish.  
The Skin of a Child, when first born.  
A Bear; the Gift of Daniel Beckher.  
Galcus' Levis, a hurtful sort of Fish, we call it a Hound-Fish.  
The Skin of a huge Serpent.  
The Intestines and Stomach of a large Man.  
A City of China, printed by the same Nation; the Gift of Peter de Carpentier.  
The Sceleton of a Man on Horseback; the Gift of Dr. the Bills.  
The Head of a Sea-Horse.  
A French Nobleman, who ravished his Sister, and also murdered her, was beheaded at Paris, and bestowed on the Anatomy by Dr. Bills.  
The Bill of a strange Bird.  
The Mummy of an Egyptian Prince, above eighteen hundred Years old; the Gift of David de Willem.  
The Beak of the Bird Rhinoceros, or Topau; the Gift of Adrian de Paevis.  
An Indian Sable.  
Unbleached Egyptian Linen.  
The Head of a Rhinoceros.  
A Roll of white China Paper; the Gift of Dr. Mic. Pauwe.  
A Stone of a considerable bigness, taken out of a Maid's Kidney; the Gift of Don. Otto. Heurnius.  
A Coral-Tree, taken out of the East-Indian Sea; the Gift of Dr. John de Laet.  
Six Stones taken out of the Bladder of an old Professor, John Heurnius.  
A Pot in which is China Beer.  
Two Vertebrae out of the Neck of a Rhinoceros.  
A great Jasper-Stone, or Bloodstone from Arabia.  
A Roman Lamp which burns always under ground.  
Some Roman Arms a thousand Years old; the Gift of Dan. Gisius.  
The Wings of a flying Fish.  
An Indian Crabfish; the gift of Dr. Jo. Dam. Bossu.  
An Hand of a Mermaid; the Gift of Prince Maurice.  
A Toad-stool, above a hundred and ten Years old, which grew in the Haerlem Mere; the gift of Pet. Scriverius,  
A Foot of a Sea-Monster; the Gift of Prince Maurice.  
A Lizard's Skin from Brazil; the gift of Prince Maurice.  
A Gold-Ring from China; the gift of Dr. John Hoogkamer.  
The Skin of an Indian Squerril.  
The Sceleton of a Mole.  
The Claw of an East-Indian Crabfish.  
A Glass containg the Substance with which they are wont to preserve Mummies.  
All the Arteries of the Liver.  
A Tyger's Head; the Gift of Prince Maurice.  
The Head of a Beast from the East-Indies, called Barbirousa, is half Hart, half Hog, and is bred in the Island Celebes.  
A petrified Toad-stool.  
The Head of a Sea-Hog from Brazil; the gift of W. Piso.  
The Hand and Foot of a Mummy; the gift of Fred. Westphalinek.  
A precious Stone in Ethiopia, called Heliotropium.  
Three Claws, with the Horn of a young Rhinoceros.  
An Egyptian Bean.  
A dried black Arm.  
A Book printed with China Characters; the gift of Francis Porsiin.  
The Sceleton of a Mouse.  
A Thunderbolt; given by Melchier de Moucheron.  
The Arm of an Egyptian Hero.  
An Egyptian Fly.  
The Sceleton of a newborn Child.  
A Flying-Hart; given by Francis Schurmans.  
An Egyptian Urn, in which is an Abortus embalmed, above a Thousand Years old.  
A Viper, or Flying-Adder.  
The Cheekbone of a Mummy.  
The Arteries of a Man's Liver.  
A Sea-Spider from New-York; given by Dr. Herman Bloen.  
Capricus Rondeletii.  
An Egytian Night-Owl.  
The Blood of a Crocodile.  
The Bladder of a Dog.  
A Piece of Bread of new and unhnown Meal.  
A Mallet, or Hammer, that the Savages in New-York kill with; the gift of Herman Bloen.  
The Arm of an Egyptian Mummy; given by David de Willem.  
A little Bone taken out of the Pizzle of a Wolf.  
A little Stone found in Eagles Nests, called Lapillus Aetites.  
A Stone taken out of the Stomach of a Goose, brought from the straits of Magellan.  
The Bladder of a Man.  
Lapis Nephriticus, or the Gravel-Stone.  
A Stone found in the Head of a Sea-Calf.  
A Bone of the Hearing Organ of a Whale; the gift of Dr. Jacob.  
Cuculo, commonly called a Sea-Cock.  
The Sceleton of a Fitcher.  
A small Bone taken out of the Penis of a Beaver.  
The double Bladder of a Fish.  
The Sceleton of a Frog.  
The Arteries of the Liver.  
The Sceleton of a Hedgehog.  
A Drinking-Cup of the Scull of a Moor, killed in the beleaguring of Haerlem.  
The Sceleton of a Water-Rat.  
A young Crocodile from Egypt; given by Prince Maurice.  
A Shepherd's Pipe from the Island of Maltha; given by Dr. John Van Horn.  
The Sceleton of a Chaffinch.  
A wooden Effigies of Osiris, whom the Egyptians worshipped as a God, now almost consumed with Age.  
An Image of Isis, giving suck to her Son Orus.  
An Egyptian Coffer, in which are Aromatical Spices, for preserving of Bodies for Mummies.  
Three Egyptian Idols, made of Stone.  
A Drinking-Cup, made of a Tortoise-Shell.  
An Indian Serpent's Eggs.  
The Sceleton of a Mole.  
The Arteries of the Lungs.  
A Water-Serpent.  
A brazen Effigies of Osiris, the Egyptian God.  
The Arm of an Egyptian Hero, embalmed.  
A Bone embalmed.  
A Fish called Schincus.  
A little Egyptian Coffer, upon which is engraven the Effigies of Isis, and in which is the Heart of an Egyptian Prince embalmed; given by D. de Willem.  
The Hipbone of a Giant; given by Sam. Mussenbrook.  
The Arteries of the Lungs of a Pig.  
Two strong Idols; given by David de Willem.  
A Cruse wrought in polished Marble.  
A Triangular Fish; given by Mr. Husenbrook.  
The Mummy of an Egyptian Prince, above thirteen hundred Years old; given by Dr. Jo. Baptist. Bartoliti.  
A Pair of Sandals or Slippers from the Kingdom of Siam in the East-Indies.  
The Skin of an Indian Lizard.  
A Pair of Russian Shoes.  
The Skin of a Molucca Woman, above one hundred and fifty Years old; by Richard Snock.  
A Lion's Head.  
Two Images of the Japanese; given by Adrian Pauwe.  
A Cheeck-bone of a Dogfish.  
A Flying Dragon.  
An Urn, called Vrna Ferulis Romana, wherein the Romans preserved the Ashes of  Bodies; the gift of Dr. Daniel Gyffus.  
A Woman's Pudenda, with Hair of a great length.  
An Indian Lamprey.  
A Roman Earthen Vessel; given by Dr. Dan. Gyfius.  
A gilded Copper Idol from Siam.  
A Roman Bean.  
A China Pot; the Gift of Dr. Ja. Speck.  
A Box of white Powder, with which the Indians and Italians use to make the Hair fall off.  
The Bough of a Tree fenced with Stone; given by Dr. Harrewiin.  
A Pair of Shoes made of Man's Leather.  
A Pair of Egyptian Sandals; the Gift of Dr. Ja. Leuven.  
A Sea-Horse out of the East-Indies.  
Some strange Indian Fish, and a flying Fish.  
A Roman Lamp which burns eternally; given by Dr. Dan. Ghisis.  
An Indian Sea-Spider.  
A piece of Rhubarb grown in the shape of a Dog's Head.  
A Basket wherein are Crocadile's Eggs; the Gift of Pr. Maurice.  
A Lizard.  
The Liver of a Man, in which is grown a Stone like a Ball.  
The Rib of a Sheep, with three Branches sprouting out.  
The Hearing-Organ of a Man.  
China Figgs.  
A Basket in which is Moscovian and other Country Money.  
The Arteria Magna of a Man.  
Some Egyptian Glassing, or Cupping Vessels.  
The Sceleton of a Serpent; the Gift of Adam Bornius.  
A Dish of Lapis Ossifragus, or fine Bone-stone; the Gift of John Boumanno.  
An Indian Knife.  
A Stone which was found in the Os Sacrum, or the great Bone upon which the Ridge-bone resteth.  
A Ball called Mansa, found in a Cow's Stomach.  
A great Cassia Fistula from Brazil; given by Prince Maurice.  
A great deal of very large Amber; the Gift of Daniel Beckler.  
An American Bean.  
An Indian guilded Wooden Cup; the Gift of Dr. Jam. Stellingworf.  
A black Fly, called a Beetle, brought from the Cape of good Hope.  
Some grown Coral.  
A Cup made of a double Brainpan; given by Dr. the Bills.  
The Brainpan of an Ostrich.  
A Puff, or Mushroom, of a vast greatness.  
A Sceleton of a Child newly born.  
A Sceleton of a Child, but four Months old in the Womb.  
The Image of the Goddess Fortune; the Gift of D. Gyfius.  
A great Bone found in the Body of a Woman of Vlarding, being ninety Years old.  
A Swordfish.  
All the Muscles of a Man, very curiously done, by Professor Stulpent Ʋander Wiel.  
All the Muscles of a Child.  
A young Hangman, married under the Gallows.  
Two newborn Children, very curiously anatomised.    
The Physic Garden is a square but small piece of ground, very well stocked with almost all sorts of Medicinal Herbs, Roots, Plants, etc. and other Curiosities; the choicest Things are kept in Glass-Cases; on the lefthand is a Room full of Foreign Rarities, both of Sea and Land, very neatly kept.  
Then we saw the Printing-Press in the University Yard, famous for the fine Characters of Monsieur Jean Elseviers; then the University, which is a neat oldish Building; it has three Halls for Public Lectures, several Chambers, where they take their Degrees; upon the Table of one of 'em we saw Aristotle's Works, and some Civil Law-Books; the Professor's Closets are full of extraordinrry Curiosities. The Students have no Colleges or Halls to lodge and diet in, (as in Oxford and Cambridge,) but board in the Citizen's Houses; their Tutors are very careful of them, and diligent in keeping them close to their Exercises, both at Public Lectures, and in their Private Examinations, for which they have appointed Hours, and at which they are very punctual: 'Tis a celebrated Academy, having continually in it about two Thousand, half Natives, and the rest Hungarians, Grecians, Germans, Polanders, French, English, Scots, and Irish; of which three last are computed about one hundred. Here they take their Degrees easier, and cheaper, and without that Pomp and extravagant Expense in practice in England.  
Here are but two Colleges, and those very small, not to be mentioned at the same time with the meanest in Oxford, or Cambridge; nor are they endowed, they receive their Maintenance from the Charity-Collections of the Dutch Ministers; nor can any Students remain longer here than till they attain the Degree of Bachelors of Art.  
Here is a high very Tower, where they keep their Astronomical Instruments, and whence they make their Observations, and Calculations of the Motions of the Celestial Bodies: This Place was built for the Use and Service of the Astronomers an Astrologers; of the first they have some pretty Eminent, tho' of the latter none, that we could hear of, that Learning is not in much esteem with them; tho' if it were divided into proper Parts, viz. into Mundane, or General Affairs of the World; Genitures, or Particular Nativities, with their Revolutions, Directions, Profections, Transits, etc. Horary Questions with their Solutions; and, lastly, into the Wether, with its great variety and sudden alterations: I say, if these four Parts, or Divisions, were to be studied, and improved by as many several Professors, with a College, and Endowment, for that very Purpose set apart, it might prove of vast benefit and advantage to Mankind, there being many excellent Things in Astrology, and very great Truths to be found out by a due application. But Priestcraft is every where so prevalent, that 'tis opposed by those Gentlemen, who think their Interest would hereby be lessened.  
Here is an old Burgh, built by the Romans, or Saxons, formerly a Castle belonging to the Prince of Liege, some Years since repaired, and made a good Fortification, of great Use and Service against the Spaniards in the renowned Defence the City of Leyden made against them who besieged it Anno 1544, or rather Anno 1573, presently after Easter; which by a Stratagem was raised the third of October following, by the Prince of Orange, who letting lose the Waters, which were before restrained by great Dykes, relieved the City, and ruin'd the Spanish Army, who by this means suffered an entire Defeat; but now this Burgh is converted into a Garden, with a very pretty Labyrinth in it, newly made up, and neatly kept: It belongs to a Tavern, and has drinking Arbours in it; we went up by a very steep ascent of near a hundred Steps, whence we took a view of the Country round about.  
The English have part of a Church here.  
Their Stadthouse is a good old Building, and stands in a handsome broad Street.  
This City is very Populous, abounding with Strangers, led by Curiosity to see this Place, and its Rarities; as also by the residence of many to study, (as I said before) having had the Fame of breeding up many excellent and learned Men in all Faculties.  
Here are also great Manufactures of Woollen, and Linnen-Cloth, Perpetuana's, Says, Serges, Stuffs, and Camlets; of the first they send abundance to Turkey, whence they bring Mohair to make their Camlets; also they import fine Wool from Spain, and course from England and Poland: Abundance of Walloons live here, as also of many other Nations, concerned in their Woollen and Linen Trades.  
This City has under its Jurisdiction seventy two Towns in the Country of Rhinelandt, and has very great Privileges, because it appeared very Courageous against the Spaniards upon all Occasions. Anno 1616 it was burnt by Misfortune, but soon rebuilt, more stately than ever; 'tis a very pretty, neat, and pleasant Place, fine Houses, large and clean Streets, many Canals, adorned with Rows of Trees on each side; situated upon the Rhine, the Centre of Holland. Here are several great Libraries, as indeed there are in many Towns in this Province, several belonging to private Men. Here was Heinsius the famous Poet born; and here lies buried the great Scaliger in our Lady's Church, built Anno 1370, which now belongs to the French and Walloons.  
In this Place are famous Masters of the French, Italian, and Spanish Tongues, for Arms, Dancing, Music, Mathematics, in the Whole, or Parts, and Astrology. We went to St. Peter's Church, built Anno 1121, indeed their Churches are generally good ones: The Walks round this City are pleasant, and the Fortifications very agreeable to behold. A Native of this Town, was the Tailor, who, to his ruin, made himself King of the Anabaptists in Munster.  
From hence we went by Water to HAERLEM, 
Haerlem.  twelve Miles farther, a large and fine City in this Province; 'tis seated near a Lake of that Name, a League off the Sea, and four from Leyden, with which it has Communication by a Canal made Anno 1656. There are near it delicate Meadows, a delightful Forest, and a great number of fair and wealthy Villages, which make it very pleasant. Within it is beautified with fine Piazza's, a good (tho' old) Town-House, (the worst in all this Province) and many other Public Edifices. Pope Paul the Fifth, at the Request of Philip the Second King of Spain, made it a Bishop's See, suffragan to the Archbishop of Vtrecht. Anno 1347 it was almost reduced to Ashes, but soon after rebuilt much more stately than ever. In the Year 1572 the Inhabitants shaken off the Spanish Yoke and Religion together, and embraced the Reformed. They were besieged not long after by Frederick Toledo, the Duke of Alva's Son, and after a stout and bloody resistance, for the space of eight Months, were forced to surrender themselves at Discretion, whereby they became a Prey to the Spaniard's Cruelty; but this Town was since retaken by the United States. This Place glories in the Invention of Printing, said to be found out here first, Anno 1420, by one Laurence Coster, one of the Burghers, whose Stock of Letters was stolen away by a Servant of his, and carried into Germany, whither he went himself, and recovered them at Cologn, and soon after perfected his Invention at that Place, having in Haerlem only found out the way of printing on one side of the Paper; the first Book he ever printed is kept in the Stadthouse, for those that are Curious to see it, and is Tully's Offices. Germany would fain rob Haerlem of the Honour of this Useful Invention; and Mayence, a considerable and ancient City in the Circle of the Lower Rhine, puts in her Claim first: Printing was long before this in Use amongst the Chinese.  
Here they brew good Beer, which is sent to Friesland by Sea, which puts it into a new ferment, and by that means makes it much better, and more palatable; as our Hull Ale is when brought to London by Shipping. 'Tis a neat, well-built, pleasant Place, having Rows of Trees on each side of their Burgh-wall, or Canal, of which they have not so many here as in other Cities: Their Gates are removed, and their City enlarged, for their Inhabitants increase, and grow rich, being renowned for making the finest Linen Cloth, Tiffanies, Damask, and flowered Silks, Stuffs, Ribbons, and Tapes; they have Mills by which they can wove forty or fifty Pieces at a time; they make the finest Thread and Tapes for Lace in the whole World; their Bleacheries surpass all other whatsoever; their Water whitening Cloth better than any other in the Seventeen Provinces; they use Buttermilk frequently to make their Linen look so delicately; they are very Skilful and Curious in Washing, for hither is sent from Amsterdam, Leyden, and all round about, the fine Linen, and choice Laces to be washed, which the principal People of those Places wear the whole Year about, but usually have enough washed in the Summer to last them all the Winter, having by them always a great Stock of wearing Linen. The French Court, some Years since, sent for some of the chief Laundresses, and were mightily pleased with their Skill and Neatness; rewarded them well, and sent them back big bellied.  
Here they have a most pleasant Grove, like a little Wood, divided into Walks, where on Sundays and holidays, the Citizens of Amsterdam, and other Places, resort to divert themselves.  
Here is one of the fairest and largest Churches in all these Provinces; in the Walls whereof remain to this day Cannon Bullets sticking, which were shot by the Spaniards during the Siege thereof, beforementioned; in this Church are three Organs, two old, one new, all kept very neatly; as also the Models of the three Ships that sailed from Haerlem to Damiater, seizing the Castle in which the Earl of Holland was kept Prisoner, and brought him away home. In the Tower of this Church hang two Silver Bells, which they also brought from thence, and now ring them every Night at Nine a Clock.  
Haerlem is the Second City of Holland, and sends its Deputies unto all the Colleges of the Government.  
After having seen all that was Rare and Curious, and diverted ourselves as long as we thought fit, to which End we spared neither Money nor Time, we resolved to leave this Place, and advance towards Amsterdam, which we did, and so for six Stivers apiece we took the Passage Boat, and when we were come half way, we stepped out of that, to go into another, and then we saw a stately House, where the Lords, called Dykgraves, meet, and sit, to take Care of, and Repair the Sea and Land Dykes, or Banks; each has his Apartment provided for him. Here are two very large Sluices, having Gates to let Water in or out from the Haerlem mere. Near this Place, about the Year 1672, a part of the Sea-bank was broken by a strong North-West Wind, overflowing all the Land betwixt Haerlem and Amsterdam, which cost a vast and prodigious Sum to repair. They sunk in this Breach four hundred small Vessels, filled with Earth and Stones, for a Foundation to rebuild the Wall upon, and by unspeakable Industry, and immense Charges, at last completed the Work. Here we met with a very pleasant and remarkable Story, from an elderly Dutch Man, who entertained us with it, till we almost got to our Journey's end for that Night. 'Twas thus; An eminent Farrier that lived near this Place, having an Apprentice that was so very dull and stupid, that he could not, after some Years teaching, do any manner of Thing relating to his Profession; the Master being uneasy, and unwilling to keep a Servant, that eat up his Bread, but did him no Service, one day brought him before the Burgo-Masters, or chief Magistrates of Haerlem, and desired that he might be discharged from him, urging that he was so great a Blockhead, that he could not make a Horse-shoe Nail, much less a Horse-shoe, or set it on either: The Magistrates asked the Fellow what he could say for himself against what his Master alleged; he replied, That he was above that Trade; upon which, his Master being asked by the Magistrates concerning the Youth's Birth and Parentage, declared, that he was a mere Scoundrel, and that he took him in pure Charity, his Father and Mother were Labouring People, and but a little better than Beggars: Then the Magistrates asked the Fellow what he meant; he answered, That he could drain Haerlem-meer easier than make a Horse-shoe; at which the Burgo-Masters (thinking it next to Impossible) laughed; however, they discharged his Master, and took the Youngster in private, and examined him closely, and finding he had a Mathematical Head, they told him, they would advance a good Sum of Money, and set him at work; which they did, and when he had completed his Engines, he fixed them, and in a short time recovered a great deal of dry Land; the Fame of which brought great Numbers of People of all Qualities, and Professions, to see this mighty Engineer; and being told the former part of the Story, they were surprised: The Money being expended, the Operator attended the Magistrates, and gave them an Account of it, and told them, he could not go on, except they would advance him more Money; which they (being mere Mamonists) refused to do; upon which he cunningly drew off the Workmen, and in the Night destroyed the best Engine, (in which the great Secret lay, and which was made in Private by his Hand alone) and pulled out some Pins out of others, and in a very short space of Time laid the whole Land under Water as it was before; away he fled to Antwerp, getting far enough out of the reach of his Employers, who now (tho' too late) began to be sensible of their Stinginess, and would have given double the Sum to have had their Engineer again; however, to obtain their End, having heard where he was (by a Letter he sent to a Friend at Haerlem,) they made fresh Application to him, and new Offers, which he slighted; then they made use of Stratagems and Slights to get him away privately and by force; which failing, they addressed the Governor (a Spaniard, then in open War against the States) to send him back; who, calling him before him, examined the Lad about the Affair, and finding how basely the Magistrates had dealt with him, and what an ingenious Fellow he was, refused to gratify them; then they attempted by new, large, and more generous Offers, to gain him to come voluntarily to them; to which at last he consented, and being upon his Journey to Haerlem, fell sick of a Fever, and so died by the way, and with him died also that mighty and matchless Project; since which they have not been able to do any thing in that Matter, the Water of that Mere being vast in its extent, and very deep, even to be Navigable, for we saw several Vessels of Burden then upon it under sail.  
About half an Hour past seven that Evening we arrived at AMSTERDAM, 
Amsterdam.  a vast, rich, populous, and beautiful City, equal to most in Christendom, the Metropolis of all the Low-Countries, in North Holland, in the Territory of Amsterdam; once Imperial, now subject to the Sates-General of the united-provinces: It stands on the River Amstel, by an excellent Haven, (tho' the Coasts of Holland abound with Sands, which render their Harbours more difficult and dangerous to enter,) nigh the Zuider-Zee, 80 Miles North of Antwerp, 210 almost East of London, 250 almost North of Paris, 380 South-West of Copenbagen, and 560 almost West of Vienna. Longitude 24 deg. 00 min. Latitude 52 deg. 29 min.  
This vast City was at first but a small Castle, and called Amstel, taking its Name from the River upon which it was built, and gave Title to the Lords the Founders. Soon after the Inhabitants increased, and applied themselves to Fishing, and were contented to live in thatched Cottages; this Employment begat a Trade amongst their Nighbours, and mightily enriched themselves; so that the Happiness and Commodiousness of their Situation invited a greater Number of People to come thither, to reside there; which, from a small and contemptible Village, soon made it a very considerable Town. Anno 1235 they had certain Immunities granted them by Florentius the Fourth; after this they began to build 'em Bridges and Towers; the Inhabitants also built new Houses in the Neighbourhood, and then the Borough began to take upon it the Name of the City of Amsterdam, which was then united to the Country of Holland, and having received new and greater Privileges, which were confirmed by succeeding Princes, they by their Trade and Industry became very Potent; tho' as yet this City had no Walls but only a Palisado until Anno 1482. It surrendered to William of Nassaw, after a tedious and obstinate Siege. Thus in length of Time, is this inconsiderable Place become the most celebrated Emporium of the Universe, vying with the greatest Cities in the World, in the great number of its Ships, and the conveniency it has of fitting them out; it now drives the greatest part of the Commerce which was formerly carried on by those ancient and renowned Cities, Antwerp, Sevil, and Lisbon: 'Tis the Second City in the World for Trade, and the First, we are of Opinion, for Wealth. 'Tis not so large (by much) as Paris, or London, tho' it has swelled prodigiously of late Years in Bigness, Beauty, and Magnitude; these noble Streets, called by them Grafts or Canals, distinguished by the Names of Carsars', Lords, and Cingel, etc. are wondrous fine; the Fronts great, and lofty; good French Glass, tho' no Sashes; the Rooms large, and stately; Pavements of fine Black and White Marble; good Painting, but not much extraordinary Carving; Silvered and gilded Leather of great variety, much in Vogue to hang their Chambers with; every Thing and Place very neat and nicely kept, (sometimes even to excess) and pretty well contrived, tho' (we speak without partiality) not so well as the new Houses building in and about London. The late Wars with England put a check to the Buildings in, and Enlargements of this Place, but as soon as they were over, they went on, and even now, during this present War, (the worst they ever were engaged in) they are building in several Places, at the ends of the great Streets; but then the Houses are but small, and ordinary, compared to those abovementioned, being only fit for the middling People, whereas the tother are for the wealthiest Merchants, and greatest Men among them.  
The first thing we took notice of in this mighty and vast City, that was remarkable, was the manner of their laying their Foundations, on which they build all their Houses, both great and small, private and public, which is thus; Above fifty or sixty lusty Fellows, with a ponderous Engine of Brass or Iron, force into the Ground a great many Masts, (which occasions a Saying among them, That their City stands upon Masts, and lives by Masts, meaning their Shipping,) upon which they build; the Earth is Boggy, Muddy at top, and a pretty way, but Sandy lower, and their Houses are firm, and secure, and stand as long as any other, tho' reckoned better founded. This we saw in our way to the Stadthouse or Guild-Hall, which is so renowned all over the World, and which called for our Curiosity first, and with which we entertained and diverted ourselves a great while, as we hope we shall do the Reader, who (if he never saw it) will passionately desire to go thither for the sake of this noble Pile, and many other great Rarities, and Curiosities, no where else to be found.  
This Stadthouse, or Guild-Hall, is a most noble and magnificent Pile of Building, all after the modern Italian Architecture; 'tis the stateliest Piece we ever saw, 'tis the Wonder and Discourse of all the World, the Pride of Amsterdam, and the Glory of the Seven Provinces: The Entrance is mean, and contemptible, under seven small Piazza's, or Arches, which wondefully abate its Beauty, which we told the Dutch, and which they owned, for there is nothing gives a great and noble Piece of Building more Advantage, than a large Portico, or Entrance, which makes the approach Magnificent; and a large Cupolo to diffuse the Light; which last this has, tho' in many places 'tis too dark, which is a great defect in Architecture; 'tis all of Freestone of the Corinthian Order, beautified with Brass-Statues, and Marble Carving, done by the greatest Masters of the Age. it is 282 Feet wide, 232 Feet deep, and 116 Feet high, besides the Cupolo 50 Feet high, which is a very handsome one, and a great Ornament; in it is a good set of Bells, which ring not out like ours, but are made to chime.  
This Foundation is laid as those I mentioned before, and accounted to stand on 13657 Piles of Masts driven (after the manner I spoke of, Page 122.) into the Ground; the front is adorned with a fine Piece of Carving in Marble, 82 Feet long, and 18 Feet high, representing this City in the Person of a Woman with Neptune, Lord high Admiral of the Seas, and two Salt-Water Goddesses, his Mistresses, laden with the Fruits of the Earth, all on the Right-hand, bringing them as Presents to this mighty Lady: And on her Left are two Naides, offering her Laurels and Palms; and before her two Triton's dance, and sound their Horns. On the top stands a Statue of Brass, representing Peace; and on each side one showing Providence and Justice, each Figure twelve Feet in length. And on the Back of this noble Pile is such another Piece of Carving, representing the Trade and Greatness of the City. In the Centre sits a Woman with the Hat and Wings of Mercury, with the Masts and Sails, and other Rigging of a Ship behind her, and all sorts of Navigating Instruments around her; at her Feet lie the two Rivers of Vk and Amstel, the Inhabitants of Europe, Asia, Africa, and America, presenting her their Products. Here are three Brazen Statues, as large as those in the Front beforementioned; one is an Atlas, with a very large Copper Plate; on his right-hand Temperance, and on his left Justice. On the four Corners of this Great House stand four Brazen Eagles, but Gild very neatly, supporting an Imperial Crown.  
Upon our right-hand as we entered this stately Fabric, is their Hall of Justice, finely adorned with Carved Works in Marble, with Solomon on the Judgment-Seat, deciding the Controversy between the shame and real Mother of the Child; and several other such Fancies, too many to be particular in: In this Place is the famous Bank of the World kept, supported more by Credit than Cash, tho' they want not the last, yet are not Masters of so much as they vapour, of Millions of Tuns of Gold, each Tun valued at ten thousand Pounds Sterling, (as we were informed by one who knew the Secret;) but thus much may be said for it, That it is a mighty Establishment, the Support as well as the Glory of their State; they writ off more Money here in one Day than at the Banks of Venice, Genoa, Paris, or Hamburgh, all together in two, and have more real Coin and Bullion than those Three. They are very jealous of the new established Bank in England, and oppose its Interests as much as they can, for it draws abundance of their Profits away from thence; they have visibly declined, since that was set up, the Great Interest, viz. Eight per Cent. the English give, encouraged the Foreigners to send Commissions for Subscriptions; and it being a Parliamentary Security, they esteem it Sacred, Sound, and Secure; no People in the World pay such a Veneration to that August Assembly as these, for they are in Pain when ever there is the least Convulsion in the Senate, upon whose Conduct, the Good of the Kingdom, and almost all Europe, especially of the Reformed Religion, they know, so much depends.  
The States and Magistrates of Amsterdam are the Security for this Bank; the Integrity of the Commissioners and other Officers, the Safety of the Money here deposited, the Promptness of the Payment, the Goodness of the Species, the Easiness of Transferring it, the Reputation of the State, are the great Inducements of the People of all Nations in Europe, as well as their own, to lodge their Cash here.  
In this House is the City Prisons for Debtors and Criminals. Here is the City Guard kept, by the Citizens only, where the Keys of the greatest Gates are locked up every Night.  
Up a pair of good Stairs, tho' not large, but darkish, is the Common-Hall for the Citizens to meet, 'tis 120 Feet long, 57 broad, and 98 high. Here is the famous Mosaique or Brass inlaid Globes, both Celestial and Terrestrial, in the Floor, wherein may be found all the known World, and all the Zodiacal Signs, Constellations, and Planets in the Heavens; the fixed Stars are most curiously done, plain and very easy to be found; we often came hither in wet Wether to divert ourselves with running over these Globes, each 22 Feet Diameter; this is a noble Piece. At the End of this Hall the Judges sit, in a particular Chamber, to try all Civil Causes. Here are abundance of other Offices, or Chambers, as the Council-Chamber, where the Common-Council meet to make Laws, elect Burgo-Masters, or Lord-Mayors, Sheriffs, Judges, Deputies to serve in the great Assemblies at the Hague. Here are Treasury-Chambers, Chambers of Accounts, an Office for the Commissioners for Bankrupts, who meet not to destroy (as in England) but to preserve the Estates of those infortunate Men, who are commiserated by their Laws, and Constitutions, and not ruined with their Families for ever. These Commissioners compound for the Debtors, and oblige their Creditors to be satisfied with what can be done, and suffer them not to hurry them away to Prison, to lie and rot, (as some Barbarians let their Debtors in other places,) but receive part of their Debts, and remain contented till the Man be able to pay the rest, who has a part of his Estate left to begin the World again, that is, to go to Trade again, who often by his Industry, and good Fortune, gets a great Estate, and pays every Body to a Farthing. This is Conduct, this is Management, this is Prudence to be praised: But when will the English Nation be so happy to imitate them in this? Truly, I fear, never. There need be no Mint, White-friar's, Savoy, or other Sanctuaries, if they were put in practice; there need not, I say, be so many starving in all the Holes and Corners of the Town, who are capable of employing their Time well, and getting of Money, and have as good Heads, and as able Bodies, and are as fit for all sorts of Business, as any People in the World: The English are more Mercurial than the Dutch, but their National Constitutions are not so adapted for the Good of each Individual.  
Here the chief Officers for Government of the Hospitals meet, and manage all Affairs relating to them very prudently. Here are Chambers belonging to the Secretaries, and others, too many and too long to describe; with a proper Motto or Devise over each; as particularly that over the Chamber of the Commissions of Bankrupts, is cut in Marble, Fortune flying away with Wings, Money-Chests turned up-side down, Mice and Rats eating Bags, Pens, and Paper-Books.  
Here is a great Magizine of Arms kept for the City's Safety and Service, all neatly kept, and preserved in Presses; they told us they could arm, in four Hours time, twenty thousand Men completely for Action At the top of this great House are eight great Cisterns, always kept full of Water, to be ready on all Occasions, with Pipes of Leather to communicate them to all Parts of this Building, if any Fire should happen; and the Chimneys we saw were all secured by Copper within, to prevent even the Sut taking fire; and these great Precautions are used, not only because of the vast Treasure, and Accounts lodged here, but because their old Stadthouse, which was but an ordinary Piece to this, was by accident suddenly reduced to Ashes.  
This is one of the most populous and beautiful Cities in the World; their Buildings are noble, large, and magnificent; their Streets broad, (not crowding there for the Wall, as at London,) clean, (even to the wearing of Slippers in Winter,) and neatly paved with French Pebble, in Sand, which drinks up, and laid high, which throws off the Water into their Canals, which are very large, and numerous here, cleansed by the daily ebbing and flowing of the Tide, and deep enough to bear Lighters of Burden, which unlade their Ships, and bring up the Merchandise to their very Doors; between their Houses are most pleasant Rows of Trees, and Lamps between them, and very thick, (one to two Dwellings,) which in Night give a delightful Prospect, and burn late, to answer the Ends of Business, or Conversation: These, as well as the Trees, are preserved with great Care, and he's a hardy Fellow that dares break the Glass of one, or the Boughs of t'other, and is sure of severe Punishment, which they never fail to admister; and, to terrify the Youth, and the Mob, they have in several Places set up on a Board painted neatly; The Executioner whipping some, and cutting off the Hands of others for those Crimes; which, by this means, are rarely heard of.  
Here is neither Court, nor University, yet wonderfully abounds with People, of most Nations; a great many Travellers always, passing and repassing; 'tis a mighty Thorow-fair.  
We walked round the Walls of this City, which are strong with Bastions, of modern Fortification of Earth, faced with Brick, built Anno 1660, forty or fifty Whole and Half-Cannon mounted on Carriages; the Points flank one another, with a very large deep Ditch or Canal round three parts of it; the fourth being secured by an Arm of the Sea, seven strong beautiful Gates, and several Guard-Houses, sixteen hundred Soldiers in constant pay, clothed and maintained by the City, whose Livery they wear, which is Grey Cloth lined, and faced with Green; four hundred do Duty every Night. 'Tis rare to hear of any Disorders committed here in the Nitht-time, notwithstanding the great number and variety of Inhabitants and Strangers, and their continual Fiddling, all Night long, and Gaming, which they do very much here; no Quarrels, no Heads broke, no Watchmen scoured, or Assailants knocked down; no Swords drawn, no sending to the Counter, to lodge there all Night; no breaking of Windows, pulling down of Signs, and Barber's Poles, (manly Acts indeed!) no, not the least Mischief done (at least seldom;) if Drunk, they reel quietly home, and hasten to Bed to sleep it away; Robberies Nocturnal are rare, the Clapper-Men (as they call them) go about every half Hour, and make a Noise with their Rattles, and tell the Time of the Night, and trouble no Body with a Whither go ye? or, a Come before the Constable, and be asked twenty silly impertinent Questions. Indeed the Houses here are made very strong, abundance of Ironwork for Ornament and Safety, Shutters within and without, very thick, and with strong Bolts, all neatly painted, to the very Garrets, with Green, Red and White, which look very pretty.  
We went into the new great Church, built by the Reformed; here is the biggest Organ we ever saw, and plays so very fine, that you would almost swear there were human Voices; nor did we ever see such a Pulpit in the World as there is in another great Church, built broad at the lower part, and so up like a Pyramid, all very curiously carved; then the Brass Skreen of mighty Bars, and de Rutter's (their Renowned Admirals) Monument, erected at the States Charge, which cost two thousand Pounds Sterling; never was the Life of so great a Man so tamely and weakly thrown away, for he was sent to assist the Spaniards against the French, who (upon the Revolt of the Messinese) made themselves Masters of that noble Island; a little before the Engagement, in which he was slain, an English Gentleman went on board his Ship, and welcomed him into those Parts, and told him the French Squadron of Men of War was very strong, and that he was troubled to see his so weak, and wondered the States would so expose Him, his Life, and Honour; to which he answered, That where e'er his Master thought fit to venture their Flag, he would venture his Life; which he did, and lost it, to his Master's shame, to send him at the Head of a poor Squadron, ill manned and provided, that had commanded their whole Navy.  
Here are but thirteen Churches in this vast City, but then they are very large ones, much bigger than ours in England, but no where so numerous; these all belong to the Calvinists, or Reformed Dutch Presbyterians; some of which we were in Company with, and found them very honest, moderate, good Men, not so hot and fiery as our own; they laughed at us for being so very zealous for, and speaking so high of the Church of England; but we told them they had no reason, for we understood they were as zealous for the Church of Holland, and would suffer none but the Members of that to come into the Civil Government, which was a good way to preserve it; which they owned: And we added, that if the English were as wise in that very Particular, they would be a happy Nation; but, as the Interests and Factions swayed at Court, so were the Churchmen either valued or slighted, taken into, or thrown out of Place, and that this shifting and changing of Persons, and fluctuating of Councils, was very pernicious to the true Interest of the Nation, and that the only means to keep the Government steady, and unshaken, was to fill all the Civil Employments of Trust, Profit, and Honour, with sound Members of the established Church of England, who were the only Men that could and would support Monarchy and Episcopacy, the best Church and Government in the World.  
Here are two French Churches, one of 'em has been lately enlarged above a third part, 'tis well Wainscoted, and has a small plain Wainscot Organ.  
Here is one English Church, to which we went the first Sunday after our arrival, it was formerly a Popish Chapel; it has yet a Nunnery adjoining to it, we saw some of the neat Nuns: Here is sorry Preaching, a long, dull, tedious Sermon, an hour and three quarters, about two hundred Auditors, and sometimes four or five hundred, all Presbyterians.  
The King of England has a Consul here, who makes some small Figure, and sits in an eminent Pew in the Church, and has some Respect paid him.  
Here is also one High-Dutch Church, or Germane; these are all allowed the Use of Bells, and their Ministers are paid by the Magistrates, as are their own, about 200 Pounds Sterling per Annum; some more, some less, besides Presents of Spices, and other Things, they receive once a Year, viz. at Christmas.  
The Roman Catholics are very numerous here, as also in the Towns and Villages in this and other Provinces; they have in this City alone fourscore and five Chapels or Mass-Rooms, have no Bells allowed 'em, are obliged to have their Doors always open, and are tolerated, as all others are here; they have a large Square of Houses for their Religious to live, but not to be cloistered up in, who have a Liberty to go, or stay at Pleasure; and to live singly, or to be married, which they like best.  
Great Numbers of Lutherans are here, and have a very fine Church; and Jews in abundance, who have many Streets here, and two Synagogues; one a very fine one, and the largest in Europe (if not in the World) being much Superior to those we ourselves saw in many other Parts, where the Jews are most numerous; in the Yards they have large Schools to educate their Children, and instruct them in the Principles of their Religion, and to learn the Holy Language, as the Hebrew is called.  
Here are Armenians, Brownists, or English Independents, Anabaptists, and Quakers, but not very many of the last: We were at all their Conventicles, and heard 'em mouth out their Noise and Nonsense, much against our Humour, but when we were once in, we thought 'twould be indecent to go out till all was over; they are very Zealous and Furious, and thunder out strange sort of rattling incoherent Stuff; we pitied their Ignorance, but found they retain the same Heat abroad as at home. All these Dissenters from the established Church of Holland, must be first married by the Magistrates, and afterwards, if they will, among themselves after their own Mode: But, as I said before, they take care to exclude all these Puritan Pretenders out of their Civil Government, but they may go into their Military, by Sea, or by Land, and be knocked on the Head, if they please.  
Here are three great Sluices, and Bridges almost without number, which were formerly of Wood, but are now of good Stone, with very strong, and neat Ironwork, not only of great Conveniency for Communication betwixt Street and Street, but also of great Beauty and Ornament. They are apt in Laziness (which is not common) to throw their Filth into their Burghals, or Canals, which causes ill Scents and Fumes, and which is a nasty thing, but 'tis prohibited, and punished when discovered.  
Amsterdam is the World's Warehouse, for here are vast Magazines of all sorts of Merchandise; hither are brought Goods from all Parts of the discovered Globe, and here they are laid up for a Market, and when ever they are in demand, hence they are sent forth: Here is the great and general Store-House for Corn, of which, tho' they have but little grows in their own Country, yet they serve their Neighbours with it, and are great Dealers, some of their Merchants trading only in this Commodity are said to be worth above a hundred thousand Pounds Sterling; they supply the Armies when in Campaign, and make great Advantage thereby, as also by the Exchange of Monies: Here are also always vast Stores of Provisions of War, for the Sea and Land Service, Arms, Powder, Ball, Buff-Coats, Belts, Match, Ship-Timber, Iron-Works, Masts, Pitch, Tar, Hemp, Canvas, etc.  
Then for Spices, with which they serve all Europe, and part of Asia, which formerly was done by the Venetians, but now by the Dutch East-India Company; surely 'tis not the Fate of Commonwealths only to be Masters of such mighty Commerce!  
We hired a Yacht, and sailed up and down the River before the City, to view that and their Shipping, which lie before it in the Form of a Half-Moon, and look like a Wood; they have abundance of small Vessels continually sailing to and fro; we went to Sardam, a great Village about a League off, where we saw on the Stocks almost a hundred Sail of Ships, all for the Merchant's Service; they underwork and under-sell all their Neighbour-Nations, who used to come hither to buy Ships, which they could considerably cheaper than at home; they are very slight, ill-built Ships, like other things for sale.  
Here are Mills of many sorts, almost without number, chief to saw Timber for Ships; some to make Paper; the People are subtle and very rich, live sparingly on Buttermilk, Whey, with Herbs and pickled Herrings, and Rye-Bread; some great Merchants live here; others Insurers, but most Ship-Builders and Ship-Carpenters: Their Houses are very ordinary, and built of Wood; two or three Churches, one ordinary, one new built of Brick; t'other lately enlarged, for the Inhabitants increase. Here they build Ships of War upon occasion, having abundance of Hands, and can run 'em up presently: Here we saw some few Beggars, and except some Foreigners (most French) at Amsterdam, we met with no Beggars in all our Travels in these Provinces: The Natives choose to be Out-liers, rather than come to Amsterdam, where they shall have Bread, but they must work for it. In our return we took notice of the vast number of their Shipping, their Greenland Fleet makes a great show, being about six or seven hundred Sail, which breeds abundance of Seamen, and employs abundance of Shipping, but is not very gainful to the Adventurer, for they often make bad Voyages, killing but a few Whales; the very Ships stinks of their Oil, so we easily found them out. When we came ashore, we walked along their Keys or Wharves, and viewed the Shipping that way, they were numerous indeed, that part of their Fleet which lies here consists of about fifty Sail, great and small, several new ones on the Stocks; they are now hard at work to get them ready, and to rig the rest, to be early at Sea next Spring: The States have here a great Magazine for the Navy, and all things in great order, and well preserved.  
We saw the East-India Companies Magazine, consisting of Warehouses, and Cellars, where are vast Quantities of Spices of all sorts, (the worst and oldest of which they sell first, and send to their Neighbours, calico's, Silks, etc. 'Tis a large, new, well-built House, with a Moat round about it, and Draw-Bridges; before it, on the River, is their Ship-Yard, a very large one, several new Ships on the Stocks, some of a thousand Tuns, all their own; whereas the English East-India Company hire Ships for their Service: The Dutch Company is vastly rich here, and strong in the Indies, where, they say, they are not only Lords of Land of great extent, and of many considerable Islands, but are able to bring to Sea in those Parts a Fleet of forty good Ships of War; and on Land, an Army of as many thousand Men: They are really very great and formidable in those Parts, having got all to themselves; they have rooked and wormed out the Portuguese (the ancient Discoverers of, and Traders to these Parts) and the English, who have little or nothing now to do in the East-Indies, and are like to have less, as they manage Matters. The Dutch East-India Company has a Sovereign Power and great Privileges granted them by the States-General, are very Politic in their Conduct, and Diligent in their Application, and aim not at the making themselves and Families, but the Company Great; look to Futurity, and consider the Consequences of Things; they have translated the Bible and Testament in the Indian Language, and pretend to be good Christians, by endeavouring to plant and cultivate the Gospel among the Indians, (their conquered Vassals,) but prove themselves very indifferent (indeed not good Moralists) in their Negotiations with the English East-India Company, and in their Treatises with the Indian Princes, which they keep, or break, (French-King like,) (complained of, tho' copied after) as suits most with their Interest and Advantage.  
They have a mighty Country in extent in India, and have built a great and beautiful City, and called it Batavia, have fortified it like Amsterdam. At that Place resides the General of the Indies, their chief Officer, who has Guards of Horse and Foot, Court and State-Officers, Privy-Councellors, etc. Power to conclude Peace, or denounce War, and looks much like (tho' he be not) a Sovereign Prince. They are possessed of Bantam, and other Parts of the Island of Java, are considerable in the Molucca Islands, and those of Banda, Sumatra, and have Factories on the Coasts of Bengal, Malabar, and Cormandel, and in the Dominions of the Mogul, and Galcanda, have great Commerce in Persia, China, and Japan, and have routed the King from the Island of Zeylan, and are absolute Masters of that rich Country, while he, poor Gentleman, grazes it on the Mountains: Thus they usually treat the Indian Princes, who first permit them to Trade with them (which indeed is their own Interest) than they establish Factories, build Forts, (which is weakly done of those Princes to let them,) and then bring Ships of War, and a good Army, and drive away the right Owners, and take Possession for themselves, tho' they would be loath the most Christian King should serve them (not much better Christians than his Majesty) so here in Europe, tho' he might and would have done it, if the English had not stuck close to them; for which surely they'll be very Civil to them in the Indies, tho' I don't know when, yet I hope no more Amboyna Businesses, which, I know, the Dutch don't love to hear of; tho' 'tis an old Story, yet 'tis a very true one, and, I think, one of the Cruelest that was ever heard of.  
We took a view of both the Houses belonging to the Dutch East-India Company in Amsterdam; one is the old, t'other the new Part of the City: Here they keep their General Courts of Sales, and Committees meet to dispatch their Affairs; there are abundance of Chambers and Offices, in one are the Trophies which they have gained from the Indian Princes whom they have vanquished. We were led into a Room, and gratified with the sight of abundance of Amber grease, Musk, Tea, and other rich Drugs; and into another where were great quantities of Cinnamon, Mace, Cloves, and Nutmegs, brought from their Magazines, and making here fit for Sale, by sorting, as also mincing of them: Abundance of other Rooms and Apartments we saw, too many and too long to particularise. It shall suffice that we present you with a very fine and remarkable Story, told us just as we were taking leave, and standing under the Gate. A Private Centinel that carried a Musket, and went hence in the Companies Service to Battavia, having signalised himself by his Bravery in many Actions, was advanced to the Second Command in those Parts, had Guards, a large Retinue, and lived wondrous Great, flourished for a time, but in the space of a few Years was reduced to extreme Poverty, and became a very Sot; being uneasy in India, he returned to Amsterdam, and having spun out some time, and could get no Employment, once more took a Musket on his Shoulder, and went away for Battavia to try his Fortune a second time, (which seldom favours the Aged, but usually is lavish of her Graces to the Youthful and the Gay;) but what became of this Gentleman in this Second Adventure, we were not informed; but by this Story we took notice of the great Incertainty and Mutability of all Sublunary Things.  
We were several times on the Amsterdam Exchange, which is much crowded, and which abounds with Business, and great Merchants, (many of which, by great Losses, have gone off this War,) who correspond to and with all Parts of the discovered World: This Building is oblong, of Brick and Stone, far short in Beauty and Magnificence of the Royal-Exchange at London, (tho' as capacious,) being an old Pile; has no Shops round about it above, as ours, nor about it below, only some few inconsiderable Toy-shops at one end above Stairs. The Merchants here take great freedom of talking of and censuring all the Actions of all the Sovereign Princes in the World, and observe no decorum in their Expressions, for which they are much to blame, as we told some of our Acquaintance, who thereupon furnished us with an agreeable and remarkable Story of a Dutch Merchant, who on this Exchange talked very freely of one of the lesser (tho' Sovereign) Princes of Germany, and speaking meanly and contemptible of him, (his Envoy incognito being present, took notice of it, asked his Name privately, and set it down in his Pocket-Book,) it happened not long after, this very Negotiator had Business in that very Prince's Country, and being curious to see the Court, was met there by the Envoy who heard his foul Language against his Master on the Amsterdam-Exchange, and who knew him again, who demanding his Name, found 'twas the same Man, and asked him if he remembered such Words; which he endeavoured to evade, but the Time, Place and Company being told, he was mute; the Envoy told him 'twas now in his Power to ruin him, but he would not do it, but dismissed him with this Advice; Henceforth Commonwealths Man (said he) have a Care how you treat Sovereign Princes, for the unmannerly Freedom you take at home, might have cost you your Life abroad. Nay, to our knowledge, upon that Exchange, a saucy Rascal (a Broker) had the Impudence to wish all the Princes in the World in their Rasphouse, or Bridewell; such Liberty of Speech do these wanton Republicans take, and are fond of their Chains, viz. their heavy Taxes and Impositions, their Servitude being prodigious, having nothing but the name of Freedom. The same irreverent and indecent Discourse they have in their Coffeehouses, which is for want of good Sense and good Manners; for in all the Conversation which we had (and which was a great deal, and with the principal Magistrates and States, and Top Traders, who are mere Merchants) both in Private and Public Houses, and in our Passages from Place to Place, we met with very few refined Heads, (except amongst the States, who are for the most part very prudent, sober, and civil Men, of staunch Reputation and great Integrity, of good Families, and not raised from Pickled Herrings and Butter-Boxes, as reported by some untravelled Sparks,) but two at Amsterdam, viz. a Poet and a Civilian, who were indeed very witty Men and extraordinary Company, we were often with them, they spoke French fluently, which is very common here, and, we think, more universal than Latin. Milk-Coffee with Nutmeg, and Coffee with Liquorish infused, are much drank by the Dutch in those Houses.  
The Government of this Renowned City is excellent, the Magistrates wholly attend their Office, and look carefully after the due execution of their Laws, which are the Life and Soul of the Commonwealth: The Excise, which is here general, would be an insupportable Grievance, and cause daily Complaints, but that it is fairly established, and faithfully collected. Here is a Senate of thirty six States men, who continue in that Employment during life, by a Privilege the Citizens have quitted, who in former Times elected them annually; but when their City grew vast, the number of Electors increased and often fell into Tumult; which to prevent they have established that great Council, who fill up their own Vacancies themselves, and choose the Burgo-Masters, and Eschevins, (Lord-Mayors and Aldermen) who are the Chief Magistrates; of the first there are four, one presides, and serves two Years, the other three are annually elected: These great Officers represent the Sovereignty of the City, and dispose of all the Offices in the Civil Government, keep the Bank, and the Keys of that and the City Gates, make all Issues and Payments, have the whole Power, and are the sole Judges of what is for the Honour, Safety, and Interest of this Body Politic; they receive and entertain Foreign Princes and Ambassadors, and perform all the Public Ceremonies.  
There are nine Eschevins; of which seven are annually elected, the Senate chooses fourteen, and the Stadtholder (King William) approves of and confirms seven. They are Judges in all Causes Civil and Criminal, and are Men of great Integrity, of a clear and unspotted Reputation; their Pensions are small, and their Port, Equipage and Retinue accordingly; they think it a sufficient Honour (as well as their Duty) to serve their Country: The Burgo-Masters and Eschevins have it in their Power to make their Families, by getting their Sons, Nephews and Friends into Honourable and Profitable Employments. The Schout is a great Officer, like our Sheriff, seizeth Criminals, and secures them, and preserves the Peace of the City. The Pensioner is like our Recorder, being Learned in the Civil Law, who informs the Senate, Burgo-Masters, and Eschevins what are the Laws and Customs of the Country, and makes all the Publich Speeches. Treasurers and Under-Officers there are in great number, too tedious to mention. The Government of the several Cities of the Seven Provinces is (in a manner) the same.  
Then we went to Visit their Almshouses, which are numerous, and well filled, giving Lodging and Diet to above twenty thousand Poor: Thus much may be said, in pure justice, That the Dutch Charity is very great and extensive, they are very liberal, they give often, tho' it be but a little at a time; their Collections in their Churches are frequent, and handsomely managed to prevent Reflections, so gathering the Alms, that one knows not what the tother gives; the Velvet Purse or Bag which is handed about being deep and not wide; and to put them in mind to prepare their Coin, a little Bell is fixed to the Stick, to which the Purse is fastened, and which they send from one to another, through every Pew; Children and Servants always give something. These Charity-Houses are spacious, noble, large, and well contrived; we praised their Building and Conveniences, and told them, it was our Opinion, Houses of that kind should be rather Commodious (as theirs) than Magnificent, which was fittest for the Palaces of Princes, and not the Hospitals of the Poor. They have made Provision for the old Men and Women together, and separately and for Widows by themselves, then for Children of both Sexes, who are numerous, and neatly dressed, in particoloured Cloth, their upper Garment half red, half sad-colour; more especial Care is taken of Citizen's Children; tho' Foundlings, or the Issue of Strangers, are not excluded this Benefit of their Charity.  
We saw their Bedlam, a very neat old Building, tho' far short of that in moorfield's, but rich in Stock, and indeed not so full of mad Folks, as the English.  
Here they have a Fool-House, no where else to be found in the World, not but that there may be as many of that sort of tame Creatures in other Countries; and this may be said, That how many soever there are without, there are very few within these Doors: 'Tis a small old Building, where there is good Lodging and Diet provided for these unhappy People; amongst them there was a Woman that had the least Head we ever saw, being much less than the natural Proportion.  
Hence we went to the Hospital for Boies and Girls, whose Fathers were Members of the Established or National Church: 'tis a good well-built square Piece, where the Children (while little) are kept close to School, than put out Apprentices to Handicraft-Trades: Here is an Apothecaries, and Shoemakers Shop, wholly for the Service of this House.  
Hence to the Spin-House, the Prison for Whores and Thiefs, all were at work, some making Lace, others Plain-work, some Spinning, others mending Linen; some in for Weeks, others Months, and Years, according to their Demerits.  
Then to the Rasp-House, which is a Bridewell, where are secured those who have been near hanging, and have escaped with burning between the Shoulders with three Crosses, the Arms of Amsterdam; sometimes with a red-hot Sword on their Back, to show how narrowly they said their Heads, and to caution 'em to beware of the next Punishment; here, after a severe Whipping, they are doomed to a temporary Imprisonment, from three to five, seven, nine, eleven, and thirty Years, some to perpetual; all to bodily Labour, to Rasp (which is to cut with a double-teethed Saw) fifty Pounds of Brazil (a hard Wood for the Dyers use) every Day, or be drubbed lustily with a Bulls Pissel, and if that won't do, they are put into a Dungeon, and fed with Bread and Water; or else into a close dark Vault, into which Water is let, which if they don't empty by pumping, will soon drown 'em, which soon brings 'em to work. The Profits of their Labour are for their Maintenance, and the Overplus to the Stock of the House, or to be disposed of by the States for the Public Good.  
Here are also Houses for Vagabonds, or wandering Beggars, common Gamesters, Sharpers, Sots and idle Folks, who are kept in this Place at hard work.  
Then to the Gaasthouse, where Entertainment is given (at the Public Charge) to all needy Foreigners, of any Nation, four Days, and as many Nights; in which time they must find out their Friends, or get Work to maintain themselves, or else they shall have Work provided for them by the Officers, which few like, but had rather choose their own.  
Upon the Justice-day (as they call the Execution here, which is usually Saturday) we saw a Man strangled, which differs but little, and that in the Word only, from Hanging; it is upon a Scaffold fixed against the Stadthouse; the Criminal is brought through Solomon's Hall, where his Sentence is read, as also on the Stage, than the Parson prays with him, and he by himself, then mounts a little Cricket, and claps his Back to a Post set up on purpose, through which there's a Hole, into which the latter is put, and so twisted hard about his Neck, the Stool kicked down, and the Hangman all the while holding his Nose, and stopping his Breath, the sooner to put him out of Pain.  
Another was beheaded with a broad Sword, which the Executioner keeps under his Cloak till the Criminal is ready on his Knees, and the Cap over his Eyes, than off goes the Cloak, the Headsman approaches, pretending to pull the Cap a little more over his Eyes, in half a Minute whips off his Head, and very cleaverly. Haerlem furnishes Amsterdam with the Executioner; which tho' the biggest and richest City in all the Seven (as well as this) Provinces, yet has not the Privilege to have a Hangman of her own. He is a spruce Fellow, and goes well in Habit, and has Servants to attend him, and is usually by Profession a Surgeon, and Bonesetter, as well as Bone-Cutter, has a good Salary from the Towns where he serves, and lives comfortably, tho' very few are found of his Company, it being thought the worst in the World, especially if he has a Parson with him.  
At the same time was a lusty sturdy Fellow whipped for some lesser Roguery, or Cheating, which was done while the t'other Fellow was hanging; and after this manner, he was brought on the Scaffold with his Crime on his Breast in Capital Letters, and led about, then stripped to the Waist, his Hands tied, and drawn up tied with a Cord to a Post, than the Hangman took up a good handful of large Birch (like that of Ostlers Brooms) from a great Bundle which lay close by, and slashed him as fast as he could, backwards and forwards, than took up a fresh handful, and so on for six or seven Minutes; at which time the Magistrates (who look on out of the Stadthouse Windows) nodded to him to give over. Vast was the number of Spectators, (as always is both there and every where else at such unpleasant Sights) beyond what we ever saw, and most Mob; or Jean Hagel, as they call 'em; or John Hail, or Canalia, or Canals, Sinks of Filth, etc.  
Here are also proper Houses to receive, detain, and chastise Extravagants, Deboshees, and reprobate, wicked, and lewd Children; of which having spoken pretty largely in the Account of the Hague, we shall say no more here, but refer our Reader thither for full Satisfaction.  
All these Charity Houses, as also those of Correction and Reformation, are neat and spruce, furnished with Pictures (which are so common in this Country, that Butchers, Cobblers, and the meanest People, have a great many, and of the sort pretty good) and well set out.  
In some of these Almshouses there are fourteen or fifteen hundred, in others eight or nine hundred, and in the rest four or five hundred Boys and Girls: Here also may any Body, Man or Woman, Native or Stranger, have a handsome Maintenance for their Lives, in a House provided on purpose, called the Brother's House, paying only a small Sum of Money at first. The Charity of this renowned City is very great, even beyond Example, and above Comparison, they are continually giving to the Poor, hardly a Bargain made here, but they come in for a Snack, the God's Penny is theirs.  
We took a walk in the Afternoon out of the City-Gates, to observe the Situation and the Country round about. We saw Mills innumerable, all in motion, some Water, some Wind, some Thatch, some Wood, (few Brick) to grind Colours for the Pot-Houses, Corn for this City, sawing Timber, draining Marsh-Grounds, etc. Here the Land lies low, and the Water high, damned up for the Public Service, and conveniency of Travel. The Air is thick, foul, and unwholesome; we fortified ourselves with a good Dose of old Hock every Day we lived, as the better sort of Dutch do, and the common with a Cup of Nantz.  
We arrived to the Dooly-House, a noted Tavern, where many of the Train'd-Band Officers are very well drawn in good Paint, in a great drinking Rome, the Wine is generally good at their Public Houses, but the best was at the Heer-Logiment, but then the Price is higher: This is a noble House, fit to receive and lodge a Prince, as it often does the lesser Potentates of Germany, who frequently travel thither, especially in their Minority, when they never fail to make the Tour of these Provinces; which well merit their Time and Expense, informing their Judgements, as well as gratifying their Curiosities: The Accounts and Descriptions of Places and Things, well made, being indeed very delightful to read, but much more to view; the Eye being in matters of that kind, much to be preferred to the Ear: The mighty Figure this Republic has, and still does make in the World, her Wealth, Power, and Reputation, both at home and abroad; her Numerous Armies, Formidable Navies, and Foreign Alliances, are all well worth seeing and knowing.  
'Tis very observable here, more Women are found in the Shops and Business in general than Men; they have the Conduct of the Purse and Commerce, and manage it rarely well, they are Careful and Diligent, capable of Affairs, (besides Domestic) having an Education suitable, and a Genius wholly adapted to it. The Men take all the Pleasure, they go to Coffeehouses, Taverns and Treats, walk or ride in Chases abroad, play much at Cards, sit up Gaming and Fuddling greatest part of Night; and all is well, the good Wife gets and the Husband spends the Money; but this Compensation the Woman has for all her Toil and Care, That at her Death (if she drops before her Husband) she can give away half the Estate. The Women of these Parts are all for making their Daughters and Nieces, or grandchildren great Fortunes; they let the Boys shift for themselves, they say they can best do it.  
We met abundance of French in this Place, both Ministers and others, (most of the Reformed Religion) the Dutch are very generous to them in their Alms for their Support; here are many Thousands, ten for one in England or Ireland. This Remark we made (not once but often,) when we or any others, occasionally spoke against the French King, they seemed concerned, tho' he has so bitterly persecuted them; and, as we were informed by those who knew it well, they used to rejoice at his former Successes in Flanders, Piedmont, and Catalina, and say upon all Occasions, Nôtre Grand Monarque est invincible, which Note now is changed; the Dutch were offended at their Vanity and Weakness, because from them they received their Bread.  
We went to the Butter, Cheese, Poultry, and Dog-Market; the three first were well-stored, but the last (which is every Monday Morning) had but about twenty Curs in it, and those very ugly, but every Woman must have one, the ordinary as well as extraordinary, and good round Prizes they, for these hairy Companions.  
Thence to the Market for green and dried Herbs, Seeds of all sorts, and Roots for Apothecaries; another of very fine Flowers in Pots, in great quantities. Here is a Rag-market, and another for Tobacco, Pipes, of which they have very fine ones, curiously glazed and wrought, and great variety of Sorts and Prizes, for Sea and Land, short ones with large Bowls for the Skippers and Tarpaulins, who keep them on board their Vessels, and sell them to the Passengers. Markets of Baskets, Chairs, Tubs, and Pails, all very pretty; Grain, Biscuit, Cakes, Eggs, etc. Two large Flesh-Markets or Halls, being in handsome Houses, great store of Flesh in both, and very good, indifferently cheap, and would be very reasonable but for the great and lasting Excise; the Butchers and their Wives are neatly dressed, and cleanlier than ours: Here is also a Sawcidge, Hogsface and Tripe-Market; they sell in their Cheesemongers Shops Bologna Sawcidges, and dried Salmon, both which they dress well, boiling in part, than frying the first, and eating it with spinach, over which they scrape Nutmeg.  
We hired a Yacht again, and sailed for several Hours up and down the River to divert ourselves: Upon a small Island overagainst the City is their standing Gallows, (the Scaffold I mentioned before being set up only at particular times,) all of Freestone, Triangular Pillars, with Iron cross them, with carved Work (a Lion) at the top of each; they first hang or strangle the Criminals on the foresaid Scaffold erected close to the Stadthouse, and those sentenced to hang in Iron are brought hither. The Wheel, or Cross is seldom used here, (tho' often in France.) The Scotch Man that many Years ago attempted to burn their Fleet of Men of War, is here laid upon a Wheel set upon a high Post. Also a French Man that killed a Whore, who being bid by the Parson to pray for the City and Magistrates, said, The Devil take 'em all; and one or two more hanging in Chains, (as we in England call it.)  
We had the Curiosity to go to see the Navy or Admiralty Office, which is a well-built House, with good large Rooms, well painted, and fitly accommodated to the Business; they have a Court of Justice within themselves, from which is no Appeal; they hang or shoot their Sea-Officers, or Men for Cowardice, or neglect of Duty, and reward them roundly if they burn, sink, or take a Flag-Ship, or any Ship of War, great, or small, or do any considerable Service; they give them ready Money and Pensions when disabled; great Care is taken of their Seamen, their Wages punctually and justly paid, and their Widows and Children considered, and themselves largely provided for in Hospitals, etc. In this House are several Trophies hung up, taken from the several Enemies of this State.  
We hired each a Chaise (which is a small Chariot on two Wheels drawn by one Horse, which runs very swift, the Roads being sandy and generally good, can travel sixty Miles a day,) and each got a Companion, and went to NAERDEN, 
Naerden.  the Frontier of the Province of Holland, about ten Miles from Amsterdam; in our way we passed through Muyden, a small City, which has no Vote among the States, because neither they, nor Wesep, another small City, nor Naerden sent any Deputies to the Hague, when the Foundation of the Union was laid. This Town of Naerden was almost destroyed by Fire in the Fourteenth Century, and the remainder of it drowned by the Sea soon after; but Anno 1455 it was rebuilt by William the Third of Bavaia, than Earl of Holland. The Citizens of Vtrecht made themselves Masters of it in the Year 1481, by a pretty Stratagem, putting their Soldiers in the Habit of Country Women; who entering the Place on the Market-Day, easily took it; but the Inhabitants soon recovered it, and put them all to the Sword. Anno 1486 this Place was reduced to Ashes, and soon rebuilt; but it met with a severer Fate (at least in the Persons of the Burghers) from Frederick de Toledo, Duke D'Alva, who came before it with a Body of an Army; upon which some of the Citizens opened their Gates to let him in; notwithstanding which, he fell upon the Inhabitants and barbarously murdered them.  
It is now a modern Regular Fortification, and made prodigiously strong, capable of receiving a Garrison of eight or ten thousand Men; it was begun Anno 1677, and perfected since the beginning of this War; it cost above three (or rather six) hundred thousand Pounds Sterling. Here are six Bulwarks, four Ravelins, two Halfmoons, two Gates, and double Ditches, deep, with strong Counterscarps.  
The Town is but small and ordinary; but this is the Frontier and principal Security of the whole Province, which is not the richest only of the Seven, but of the Seventeen. In the Year 1672 the French with Ease and by Treachery took it; but the Prince of Orange (now King of England) retook it in eight Days time, there being then no Fortification, but what the French had thrown up while they possessed it. The States depending upon their Armies in the Field, took the less Care of this Place, now they have made it very formidable.  
Here is a small Woollen Manufacture; good Beer brewed, fine, and but little inferior to the English in pleasantness of taste.  
We rid round about the Country, which is Downy, almost like Epsom, the Air pretty wholesome, and pleasant: We were at a Countryhouse of the late Admiral Trump's, a pretty Box, fine Gardens, Walks, and Rows of Trees, with a good Moat about it. We passed by another of his Houses, which the French burnt in the former War, Anno 1673 or 1674, much bigger than tother.  
In our return we passed through Wesep, a small and inconsiderable City, where they brew good Beer.  
The Wether being pleasant we made another Sally from Amsterdam, and visited Vtrecht, twenty seven Miles off; we passed by Overkirk, a small Village, which gives Title to a Lord, a Favourite, and possessed of the Revenues hereof. We went through Opcow, another small Village, four Miles further; near which Place are the Ruins of an old Castle. Then we came to Liona, a great Town, seven Miles off: Thence to New Sluice, where we dined upon roasted Eels, which is very good Victuals, and well dressed here, and is always ready at set times for Travellers. A Mile and half further is Brutil, a small Village, where young De Rutter has a House. We past Maersem and Soulandt, two small Places; and about three in the Afternoon we arrived at Vtrecht, a great, populous, but weak City, Capital of the Province of that Name, one of the Seven United, formerly and Archbishopric, in the Circle of Westphalia, and Imperial, but now subject to the States: It is seated on a Branch of the Rhine, in a very convenient and fruitful Place.  
We walked about the Walls, which are pretty high, and of Brick, but weak, and out of repair, surrounded with a deep, and broad Ditch; we passed one of the Gates, and were ferried over to see the Pall-Mall, which is kept very neatly, shaded with several Rows of Trees on each side, preserved by the present French King's immediate Command, who was there with his Army An. 1673, when he took this City without any Resistance. Here is an University (erected by the States, Anno 1636,) but not so full as that at Leyden; tho' this, in our Opinion, is a pleasanter Place, having better Air, and a finer Country about it, for we almost fancied ourselves in England, this being like some of our old Cities: Here many of the Nobility and Gentry live, because of the pleasantness of the Place, being as it were a Retirement from the noise and hurry of Business and Bustle, constant in great, trading, populous Places. The better sort of People here affect the French Mode, and, in some measure, their way of living; whereas the Dutch, in most other Parts, are fixed to their Fashion, as the Spaniards, never changing it.  
We had the Curiosity to turn over the Manuscripts lately found out, and now deposited in the Clerk's House, (adjoining to the English Church) where, besides many very ancient Bibles, and other curious Books fairly written, flourished, and adorned with Golden Letters, we saw five Unicorn's Horns, (as they called 'em,) three long and thick, two small and slender, like those we have elsewhere seen (said to be such too.) Here are two small brazen Images, supposed to be Heathen Gods, and by them worshipped.  
On Sunday (in most decent manner) we went to the English Church, which is a good old Piece of Building; the Chancel is let for a Joiner's Shop, so little do they value what was once consecrated (because after the Popish manner) to God; the Congregation was small, between one and two hundred, zealous Parson and People, no English Liturgy read here, all Presbyterians; we viewed the Dutch Cathedral Church, it was once so, tho' not now; 'tis very capacious, built Abby manner, and after the old Fashion, half of it fell in some years since, is not repaired, because the People are poor; here is a very lofty old Steeple, which we ascended, and whence we took a view of this good, great, old City, and of several Churches and old Buildings, formerly Monasteries and Nunneries. In the chief is Van Ghent's Monument, not so splendid as elsewhere; he was De Rutter's Vice-Admiral, and slain by the English in the Naval Engagement Anno 1672; he was of a noble Family of the Province of Guelderland (which is contiguous to this,) and Colonel of a Marine Regiment, trained up to the Sea Service, and ready at all times for that, as also the Land Service, and in a scarcity of Seamen, of great Use to supply that Defect, being Amphibious.  
The Streets are broad and clean, and the Stadthouse a small neat old Building, with a fair Piazza, or Marketplace. They take great Liberty here on Sundays, playing at Tables, Dice, and other Games with Cowries (or Blackmoors Teeth, as the Children call 'em) at the Coffeehouses and Taverns, and have Music in the Publick-Houses; the same is indeed practised at the Hague and Amsterdam; tho' in other Places they are a little more strict, particularly in Zealand; but they live very loosely in the Provinces of Holland and Vtrecht, buy and sell frequently on this Day, and especially Provisions; which is the more reasonable, because of Travellers passing and repassing, and they must not starve on this, tho' the Lord's-Day.  
The next Day we hired a Wagon to carry us to Soestdike, nine Miles from Vtrecht; 'tis one of King William's Hunting-Houses, formerly much frequented by him, there being abundance of Game about it, especially Pheasant and Partridge; it is a very pretty Box, and lately (that is some Years since) built, excellent Painting of Game, of all kinds, on the Walls and Ceilings; the Lodgings are small, but neat; good Gardens, curiously planted and made up; a Park of six English Miles about, five hundred Head of Deer; a pretty Engine or Mill, about three hundred Yards from the House, which conveys Water through leaden Pipes under Ground to serve all the Offices in the House; very fine Walks, and rows of Trees about it, which renders it indeed very pleasant. Having sufficiently diverted ourselves here with the Pleasures suitable to the Season, we went back to Amsterdam, whence the next day we took a Boat with Sails and crossed the Riyer Y to Buyck sloot, a village about a League off, and went thence by Water in another Boat drawn with a Horse, to Promerent, a small old City, two Leagues further, which has a Vote amongst the States, and is very rich in her Finances. Here we hired two Chaises for two Days, and gave two Rixdollers for each; we passed through the Beemster, Land so called, which the Sea formerly broke into, but was soon milled out: 'Tis very fat Pasture, feeding yearly abundance of  of several sorts, which are brought from Friesland, Norway, Denmark, and other Places lean, and here fattened. Many Country Gentlemen have fine Country Houses, all round about, adorned with pleasant rows of Trees, and beautified with Paintings. We dined at Schermerhoorn (a small Village) on Fish, because we could have nothing else, nor indeed can we in any of the small Towns through which we travelled; but this amends they make us, they are very new, because always alive; nay, the common People (love their Bellies so well) they'ell not buy any Fish if they but only languish, much less be dead: At this Place we had a mind to have a little Butter melted thick for Sauce, after the English manner, which with much entreaty, and many good words, (the only way to work upon those rough, clownish People) we were promised, and in part had, for it was thick enough indeed, almost like hasty Pudding, for they had put abundance of Flower in, without which they can't (that is, they won't) melt but boil Butter to Oil; they say, 'tis then best, being thinnest, and goes farthest; they are, as I said before, generally choice Cooks, but then 'tis only for their own Country Foulkes.  
Five or six Miles from this Place lies ALKMAER, 
Alkmaer.  which is one of the neatest, and pleasantest, (tho') oldest Cities in all the Low-Countries, being built in the Year 1550; 'tis very clean, and handsomely paved; we rid through part of it, without stopping longer than to take a Glass of old Hock, and away we went to Egmont aside Hoef, three Miles off, a sweet little Village; there stands an old ruin'd Castle: Thence to Egmont by the Seaside, about a Mile further, a small Village of Fishermen, whose Wives and Children were making Nets for their Husband's Service, who were then at the Salt Water getting Bread for them; so nothing is idle here: Thence through another Village called by the same Name, a Mile distant, it lies along the Sand Downs; here's a pretty Church, two Steeples, and the Ruins of an old Fort or Castle; the Counts of Egmont (famed in Story) are Lords of the Lands and Revenues all round about; we diverted ourselves with driving to and fro, and viewing the main Sea, and then returned, and supped, and lay that Night at Alkmaer, and the next Day took an exact and particular view of this flourishing City. It was formerly burnt and plundered by the Frieslanders, and Guelderlanders, but soon re built by the Inhabitants, and fortified after the manner of that Age, but better by William the First, Prince of Orange, who commanded some new and strong Works to be added to it, which proved of manifest Advantage to them in the Sige which the Spaniards laid to it, Anno 1573, under the Duke D'Alva, after he had taken Haerlem, but they were forced to rise from before Alkmaer with Shame and Loss. It is the Capital City of the North Parts of Holland, and sends Deputies to the Hague, and has a Session in the Admiralty, and a Stock in the East-India Company, and a great Manufactory in Linnen-Cloth; the Country round about is very Fruitful, and yields abundance of good Corn, Butter, and Cheese; of which last they have here a very fine Market, and the greatest variety of sorts we ever saw, some made with Anniseeds, some of Commin-Seeds, other of Sheeps-Milk discoloured with green, all very indifferently tasted; and (in our Opinion) the very best was far short of our Chedder, or Cheshire; we had also Parmesan-Cheese about fourteen Pence English Money per Pound, which indeed is firm and well tasted, but not so mellow and delicious as ours, (at least in our Thoughts, nor are we partial.)  
We viewed their great Church, which is of curious Architecture, and one of the finest in these Provinces; 'tis neatly Wainscotted, and well kept; has a very fine, large, well-painted Organ, which plays every Day from eleven till twelve, and makes excellent Music. And we saw their Stadthouse, which is a neat old plain Building, and stands in a fine, broad, cleanly, and well-paved Street. Their Fishmarket is well stored with great plenty of Perch, Carp, Eeels, Popes, Bleaks very large, and Jacks, (but a few) all alive, and very cheap.  
So having seen all that was Rare and Curious, we mounted, and returned to Amsterdam, where we spent two or three Days in finishing our Observations, and in buying some Toys, and fine Things (of which they have abundance) to present our Friends at our Return, we left this renowned City, and passed through Haerlem and the Hague once more, and so to Rotterdam, where we stayed two or three Days more; and thence went by Water to Dort, a beautiful, strong and rich City in this Province, famed for the Synod held here about Religious Matters, Anno 1618. to determine the Controversies between the Gomarists or Contra-Remonstrants, and the Remonstrants or Arminians, about Predestination, which then made a mighty Noise in the World. It stands on an Island, at the Mouth of the River Maese, and between three others, viz. Merwe, Rhine, and Linghe, ten Miles Southeast of Rotterdam; is the first that Votes in the States of Holland; 'tis well built, and very neat; had once the sole Right of Coinage, but now other Places in these Provinces have got the like Privilege; the Sea frequently breaks in upon it, but more formerly, and drowned above ten thousand Persons, and laid twelve Villages under Water, and once seventy Villages and one hundred thousand People.  
The Earls of Holland in ancient Times kept their Courts there; it was also formerly the Staple Town for Merchandises Exported, but has now only the Staple of Rhenish Wines, with which they drive a great Trade, and brew abominably, mixing French White Wine, and other cheap, and ordinary, thin, lean, and hungry Wines with that noble Juice, that it has in a manner lost the very natural taste, and is indeed poor insipid stuff; however, we met with good old Hock here, because we were willing to pay the highest Price. Formerly the English bought abundance of this sorry Wine, but they are grown wiser, they now buy but little; the English Ladies for the most part now drinking Red Wines, whereas formerly they fancied that brewed Dort Rhenish Wine most; however, there is yet à pretty good Trade with England for those Wines, which the Wine-coopers' put into rich Canary, which makes it pleasanter, and to them the cheaper, so they get the more Money by brewing it.  
And here we embarked for Zealand, being resolved to make the Tour of that Province, more particularly for the sake of those two Renowned Cities, Midleburg and Flushing: But before we leave the Province of Holland (where we yet are) it will be fit to recollect something (and very material) which we omitted, and had like to have forgot. Before we left Amsterdam we went to their Theatre or Playhouse, which is but ordinary, the Stage Music, Actors and Actresses, in their Persons, and Habits so, and indeed there was but one Thing well personated, and that was admirably well done, and was this; An old Fellow, who often appeared on the Stage in the Person and Habit of a Servingman, and who was well known by both, and also by his Voice, for he answered to many Questions, was by ill Fate, or bad Conduct (call it which you please) led into a Capital Crime, and having forfeited his Life to the State; he was brought out to die, (a Gallows of the Country form, with a small Brickwork almost Breast-high, to receive the dead Body when cut down, was set upon the Stage) and being told, that he should have his Life, if he would marry one of the Three Women (no contemprible ones) present on the Stage, he viewed 'em well, and said, he was obliged to them for their Love, and to the States for their Kindness; but Marriage being (in his Opinion) worse than Hanging, he would rather undergo that Sentence. He made a short Prayer, went up the Ladder, and was turned off; the young Women all the while on the Stage, seeing what past, and finding themselves neglected, were moved with Pity rather than Revenge, approached the hanging Man, and said, Tho' he was a sour, ill-natured Fellow, and would not ease us, of what has been troublesome to us many Years, (our Maidenheads,) yet we will put him out of Pain, as soon as we can; upon which they plucked his Legs hard, which dropped down, and his Hands and Arms which did so, as also did all the rest of the Man, his very Head and all falling through the Rope; which in less than a Minute was all put together again without a touch, and he appeared on the Stage, and spoke to us all; nor could any Body discover how this Thing was done, which was the Rarity. The Comedy was called, Crispin the Physician, (which we always reckoned rather a Cobbler, but any thing will make a Doctor there, their Prices are accordingly, for we have seen a top Doctor take from an eminent Merchant a Half-Crown Fee,) with a silly Farce, of Hatred and Envy, which pleased them better than the Play, (because they knew no better.) The Pit is about two Shillings English Money; the Gallery sixteen Pence; behind the Pit ; but there the Mob will stand, breaking in by force sometimes.  
The Players are kept poor by the States, to whom they (and all the Rope-Dancers, Puppet-Players, Lotteries, and all other Shows and Games whatever) pay, (towards the Maintenance of indigent old People) a great part of their Profit; some said, these do pay Two thousand Pound per Annum; then no wonder they are so indifferently clothed themselves.  
We were carried to their nasty common Bawdy-House, called the Long-Cellar, (we bid 'em put Sodom to it) presently appeared half a Dozen of plump Punks, ready to be employed, desirous to go into a Box by themselves; but we did not like this Kitchen-stuff, so we called for a Pint of White Wine, and gave it them, (not drinking a Drop ourselves; for the Wine, and other Liquors in those filthy Houses, is always (like their Women) good for nothing. We had a little Liquorish Chat; they knew us to be English, and said they liked our Countrymen best of any in the World; but we paid six Stivers for our Wine, and so took our Leaves of these Ladies.  
We were immediately conducted by a Friend to a House of Pleasure, something like; the Sign is, the Hoff van Holland, or the Court of Holland, and there were, in a Front-Room below stairs, a Knot of a dozen Women, to be hired, but all employed, some working, some playing at Cards, etc. We called for some Ale, which being brought in Bottles, was something like (tho' not so good as) our Cock-Ale; we paid six Stivers, (which is about a Penny more than an English ,) and treated the Ladies, who were handsomer, and better dressed than t'other; however we had nothing more to say to 'em, than a little merry Tattle, so we paid, and moved off: These Women attend the Service of the Public, and, when agreed with, will go where you please, and do with you what you please. These Things are connived at by the Magistrates, who say, 'tis avoidable necessary, to prevent worse Things, Violations, Rapes, etc. they abounding with Strangers, Travellers, and Mariners, long absent from Women. They have many of these Houses (as we were informed) between forty and fifty, they generally go under the Name and Shadow of Musick-Houses, but we were content with seeing but two, taking their Words for the rest; nor did we hear any Music there. This State makes an Advantage of these light Ladies, for each for her Admission must pay three Pence; by laying out of which she hopes to get more.  
In Summer the principal Diversion here is, to keep (as some) or to hire (as most do) a Chaise, and take their Mistresses (often) or Wives (sometimes) abroad into the Country, and give them the Air, and a handsome Treat, returning home for the most part in the Evening. We have seen three or fourscore of these Chaises, or small Chariots abroad at one time, and together, tho' almost all of different Company.  
In Winter the Ladies or better sort of Women are, when the Frost is hard, and the Streets slippery with hardened Snow, (which is often) taken abroad by their Gallants (often) or Husbands, (seldom except when first married) in Polish Sleads or Sledges, richly Gild and Carved, covered with Embroidery of Gold, or Silver, or rich Silk, or Tapestry, drawn by a fine Horse, richly Harnessed, with which they are very swiftly driven from Street to Street, from one Burgal to another, for about two Hours, and then brought home; whence after a little Rest, and a dish of Tea, they are attended to the Playhouse, and so home, and to Tea (not cold) again, and then to Cards, which they use much, and hold long, both before and after Supper, which they rarely fail of loving their Bellies as well as any People in the World, tho' they would be thought to do the contrary.  
The ordinary sort of People divert themselves but little in the Summer, except in Walking, (chief out of the City in Sunday's Afternoon,) and in Winter in Skating, which they do very much, and promiscuously, Boys and Girls, young Men and Maidens, and some few of the better Sort are sometimes seen on the Ice at that Sport.  
The Merchandise in this City, even the heaviest, viz. huge Fats of Rhenish Wine, is drawn on Sledges, very low, and consisting of two Pieces of Wood in length about ten ot twelve Feet, held together by two Pieces across, and covered with Iron at top; and on this they lay the Goods, having no great heavy lumbring Cars, like ours; the Brewers also carry their Drink abroad thus; all having a little Tub of Water upon the Sledge, which they often spill on the Ground, to make it go the glibber: The Drivers of these, as also of their travelling Wagons, are (like our Carmen and Coachmen) often rude, and affront Folks; but then upon Complaint to the Burgo-Masters, they shall be punished by Suspension, or otherwise, very severely.  
They have no Coaches like our Hackneys, that ply in the Streets, but you may hire a Sledge, which is the Body of a Coach upon a Sledge without Wheels, and drawn by a Horse, the Coach is a handsome one, and the Horse a good one, and the Fellow in very good Habit; and thus the better Sort are carried to Church, and to the Playhouse, and to Visits; the Price reasonable: But then at the Hague, Amsterdam, and other Places, you may hire (as we did often) a handsome Coach on Wheels, and a Pair of good Horses, to carry you any where out of Town.  
The Dutch every where observe a great Decency in their Funerals, all the Men following the Corpse (two by two, in handsome black Cloaks,) which are brought to the Church (upon a forfeit of twenty-five Guilders the first, and fifty the second half Hour, to be given to the Poor) at two, or thereabouts, the Doors being locked up at three. The dead Body must lie three Days in open view, to satisfy the Relations that it was a natural Death; and in some Places (in these Provinces) when any Body dies, there is a Truss, or Bundle of Straw laid at the Door, where it continues till the Day of the Burial, and is great or small according to the Age, and Sex, there being a very large Bundle for a Man, less for a Woman, and much less for a Child.  
The Dutch are the worst Nurses in the World, they can't make a little good common Broth, Gruel, or Caudle, are hardhearted too, and careless of the Sick; if you can recover by strength of Nature, and a small help from your Doctor, so; if not, you may die, they are very indifferent in the matter.  
In the Public Houses we pay for Pipes, Candles, and every thing; the Excise is very high, and heavy, so that it can't be avoided; but than you are served with very fine Pipes (which you may break if you please) and large, white, tall Candles, made of pure Tallow, but bad Wick, and so don't bourn extraordinarily.  
Amsterdam is in no fear of Foreign or External Force, they can, when they please, cut their Dykes, their Banks, and lay the Country under Water, and so prevent the Enemy's approach.  
And now for the Province of ZEALAD, 
Zealand.  to which we are under sail, and very near; landing about eight in the Morning at Middleburg, the Capital Town in the Island of Walcheren; it was formerly a very sorry Village, but now a noble, well-built, rich, and very strong City; 'tis but twenty five Miles North-East of Bruges in Flanders; it has a very great Trade in Times of Peace, especially with France for Wines, (chief White, of which here is the Staple) but now fits out almost a hundred Sail of Privaties, (by them called Capers) which extremely annoy the French Coast-Trade, having done them more Harm than all their Enemies besides; they have some of forty and thirty Guns, which are sent into the West-Indies, and where they meet with rich Booty, having abundance of French Ships (some of their Cargoes very valuable, especially those from Martinico) in their Harbour, taken this War: While we were there, they brought in several good Prizes.  
This Town has a good share in the East-India Company's Stock, and have a Chamber here, and Sales of Goods that come from thence; the Merchants coming from other Provinces to buy them. Here were formerly some considerable English Merchants, but now none, there being but little Trade between them and us: There is an English Church, about an hundred Auditors, all Presbyterians, and Dutch, from English and Scotch Parents.  
Here is an Exchange, and but an indifferent one, and thin of Merchants. The Churches here are large, and handsomely built, the Houses also, but not so new and modish as at Amsterdam; the Place is moderately populous, Markets well stored with Fish, and Flesh, both reasonable: The People, both at Land and Sea, are not at all like the Hollanders, who are fat, swinging, swag-bellied Fellows, but these small, neat, tied, smart Lads, and the best Seamen for Fight and Privateering of all the Seven Provinces; they are indeed true bred Sea-Rats; the Hollanders sail more in the Merchant Service, these in the States, and in Capers.  
Here is a good handsome Stadthouse, an old Piece; the People here are more reserved, or rather more melancholic than in other Provinces; and the Magistrates are very severe in punishing lewd Women, and Men, especially the first, which makes them very close and private in their Amorous Affairs: They are more lose, and greater Libertines in the Places whence we came, and drink more to excess, as well as dally with Women.  
We hired a Yacht and went on board some of their East-India Ships, a League below the Town, where we were very civilly received and entertained, (tho' Strangers) for all the Dutch are not such very Boors as reported; but they are a slow, heavy People (in Understanding, but not in Industry) and must not be hectored and thundered at, but mildly and gently handled; we won upon 'em wonderfully, giving them obliging Words, and using civil Actions, we melted them into Complaisance (which is not very natural to them) and by some happy and engaging Healths which we invented, and began, (viz. Prosperity to the State, to the Province, to the Company Trading to India, Union to the Allies, Victory to the Confederates, Downfall of France, Continuation of Friendship in our own Private Society, etc.) together with the Wine, (of which they were liberal, even to an excess) we were soon all of a Piece, the best Friends in the World, nothing like us, happy mixture of English and Dutch. We took leave in time, and had Light enough just to observe the Ramekins, so famed in Annals, and so much and so frequently talked of, being put into the Possession of our Renowned and Glorious Queen Elizabeth, as a Mortgage for Money lent the States, (when Poor and Distressed:) 'Tis an old fashioned Fort, and guards the Mouth or Entrance of the River which leads to Middleburgh, and is but a sorry feeble Thing.  
But thence we went to FLUSHING, 
Flushing.  where we lay all Night, and next Morning early walked round all their Fortifications, which are modern, strong, in good repair, and command the River, and a pretty way to Sea.  
Here is a large old, and a very great new Dock to build in, and to lay up their biggest Ships of War, which this Province furnishes to their Quota; there were several new Frigates, and Ships of great Force on the Stocks, which will be ready early the next Spring: Here they build, and hence they send out a great many Capers, that Plague the French, and return rich, (as they used to do from Us when in War with England,) they have always forty or fifty abroad; they chief live by that Trade, and by re-taking their own Countrymen, and Allies Ships, having Savage for the same, if within the Benefit of the Law Marine, or else all to themselves.  
Flushing is a fine City and noble Port, one of the Cautionary Places delivered to the English. It stands at the Mouth of the River Scheld, where is a very convenient Haven, but a League from Middleburg, which is bigger than this, but not so populous: Here are a great many Fisherboats and small Craft belong to both Places, but most to this: Hence is the Passage to Flanders, whose Banks are in sight, and Bruges is but twenty-two Miles off.  
This is the Key of the Sea of the Low-Countries, and is a handsome, cleanly, well-built Place, but not very modern: It was (in vain) attempted by the Dukes of Alva and Palma, but now thought almost impregnable: This poor Province has been mightily exposed to Inundations, and been almost ruined by those prodigious ones, An. 1304, and 1509.  
TERVEER is the next considerable Town, 
Yerveer.  to which we went, and where we made but a short stay, it being far inferior to the t'other two, tho' this is the Third in the Province, the rest being but inconsiderable, and rather Villages.  
Here is a good Stadthouse, and and a good Church or two; the Houses are older, and nothing near so Magnificent as in the t'other two Towns; nor is their Commerce to be compared, tho' they have a Snack in the East-India Company's Stock, and have some other small Trade, and some Fishermen.  
King William, as Prince of Orange, possesses most of the Lordships and Baronies in this Province, and my Lord Odyke some of the rest, who keeps a kind of a Court, and makes some small Figure when at Middleburg; we visited his Palace, which stands pleasantly, but affords no extraordinary Remarks. The Wether began to be cold, some Snow fell, and Ice was feared, which would have penned us in this famous Island, (which has fifteen or sixteen little ones within it) so we resolved to take our Leaves of it; and accordingly took Boat for Hevoet sluice, where we arrived in a lucky Minute, the English Packet-Boat being within two Hours after to sail, and had a very fair Gail presented; so we went ashore, refreshed ourselves, bought Provisions good store, (there being no Halfway-House at Sea,) and laid in some good old Hock and Brandy, and so embarked about nine that Morning, and next Morning early landed at Harwich, (being glad we were once more got on English Ground, in our Opinion, the best in the World,) where we rested a few Hours, took Coach, and came to Colchester, where we lay that Night, and furnished ourselves with Eringo, or Sea Holy-Root candied, (and the best done in England,) at four Shillings the Pound, and filled our Bellies with large, fat, white, firm Oysters, and bought some to bring home; and next Day in the Evening, being the 19th of November 1695, arrived safe and sound in London, whence we had been absent three Months and five Days.  
FINIS.   

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THE Reports of divers Special Cases in the Courts of Common-Pleas and King's-Bench, in the Reign of King Charles the Second. By Sir Thomas Jones, Knight, late Lord Chief Justice of the Common-Pleas.  
Printed for Sam. Keble, and Sold by A. Bosvile, at the Dial over-against St. Dunstan 's Church in Fleetstreet.  
AN Help and Exhortation to Worthy Communicating: Or, a Treatise describing the Meaning, Worthy Reception, Duty, and Benefits of the Holy Sacrament. And Answering the Doubts of Conscience, and other Reasons, which most generally detain Men from it. Together with suitable Devotions added. By John Kettlewell, late Vicar of Coles-Hill in Warwickshire.  
Sold by Alexander Bosvile, at the Dial, over-against St. Dunstan 's Church in Fleetstreet.