THE ART OF GUNNERY. Wherein is described the true way to make all sorts of Gunpowder, Gunmatch, the Art of shooting in great and small Ordnance: Excellent ways to take Heights, Depths, Distances, accessible, or inaccessible, either single or divers distances at one operation: to draw the Map or Plot of any City, Town, Castle, or other fortified place. To make divers sorts of Artificial Fireworks, both for War and Recreation, also to cure all such Wounds that are curable, which may chance to happen by Gunpowder or Fireworks. This Treatise is composed for the help of all such Gunners and others, that have charge of Artillery, and are not well versed in Arithmetic and Geometry: all the rules and directions in this Book, being framed both with and without the help of Arithmetic. By Nathanael Nye Mathematician, Master Gunner of the City of WORCESTER. LONDON, Printed for William Leak, at the sign of the Crown in Fleetstreet, between the two Temple Gates. 1647. To the Right Honourable the EARL of LINDSEY, Lord great CHAMBERLAIN of ENGLAND. Right Honourable, THE patronage of Arts being hereditary to your noble Ancestors, especially that of War, wherein so many of the famous VIRTUE'S have been transcendently glorious encouraged these few sheets of mine to crave the protection of your Lordship's favour against the malicious ignorance of this unhappy age. The addresses, I do humbly acknowledge savour of too much boldness: the Treatise short: and the Author not of years Confident to present pieces worthy of your Lordship's favour, or perusal. Yet the matter in itself being Noble and suitable to these times, and the well known propensity in your Lordship's nature, to cherish ingenuous endeavours with the particular service I ever did owe and bear to your Lordship and Noble Family, occasioned these bold addresses Of your Lordships my LORD, most humble Servant, N. NYE. To the READER. LOving Friend, the cause moved me to set Pen to paper to write such a Treatise as this Book of Gunnery, was because that in all the Books of this Art yet Printed, I never saw one that gave ample directions to attein to any knowledge without the Art of Arithmetic; I do also verily believe that when a man hath learned that Art in whole Numbers and Fractions, as also to extract the Square and Cube Roots; that he will be without any of their directions, able to do that which divers of them employ half their Books to teach, in this my Treatise I have added divers Tables for thy help, to resolve those things which are elsewhere taught to be resolved by Arithmetic: and if thou hast knowledge in that excellent Art, here are things worth thy observation; I am sure divers of them were never published before: And whatsoever thou findest in my Fireworks, I do protest to thee, that I have made, and still do make practice of them myself; having by experience found them the best of all others that ever I have read of or that are taught by Bate, Babington, Norton, Tartaglia, or Malthus; if any man shall make the least doubt of what I have said, I am ready to resolve him: And to conclude, according as thou findest the truth of what I have written, so give thy doom, I rest Thy loving Friend, Nathanael Nye. Arts Mathematical (in Worcester) Professed by Nath. Nye Mathematician, these Arts, Sciences, and Faculties here under expressed. Arithmetic In whole Numbers and Fractions, Extraction of Roots Square, Cube, Of Astronomical Fractions. Geometry The Principles, with the Practice and Demonstration. Measuring of Land and reducing of Plots or Maps, to any Proportion Measuring of any superficial or solid content, as Board, Glass, Timber & Stone, Gauging of Vessels the exactest way. Description, Demonstration, and use of Instruments. Quadrant, Theodelite, Plain Table, Circumferenter, Circular Scale, Mathematical Scale or Sector, Rules by Master Gunter, coverted into a Crosse-staff. Astronomy The use and demonstration of the Sphere or Globe, both Celestial and Terrestrial, The Celestial Globe in Plain. Navigation The Principles thereof, with the making of divers Instruments befitting that Art. The use and Projection of Maps and Charts. To find the true longitude at Sea. To calculate the true motion of the heavens, and to find the eclipses for any time, either past, present, or to come. To make Dial's of all sorts, either fixed, or instrumental. The cause why the art of Gunnery is not of that esteem as such a noble Art deserveth, and who are the causers, and disesteemers of it. Chap. 18 The properties, office and duty of a Gunner. Chap. 19 What qualifications every man ought to have, when he first gets commission to be a Gunner. Chap. 20 How to make the dispart of any true bored piece of Ordnance. Chap. 21 To know whether your Piece be Chamber bere. Chap. 22 To know what diameter every shot must be of, to fit any Ordnance. Chap. 23 To find what flaws, cracks, and honycombes, are in every Piece of Ordnance. Chap. 24 To find the diameter of any round shot by its Circumference. Cahp. 25 How by knowing the height and weight of one shot, to know the weight of any other, the height being given, Chap. 26 How by knowing the height and weight of one shot to find the height of any other shot, the weight being given. Chap. 27 To find what proportion there is between bullets of iron, lead, brass, and stone; and by knowing the weight of one foot of one mettle, to find the weight of any other shot, of any of those metals, of that diameter. Chap. 28 A Table to find the weight of any shot of iron, lead, or stone, from two inches diameter, to eight inches, exactly calculated. Chap. 29 How to make a shot of lead and stone, of the like weight, as a shot of iron is of, being of the same height. Chap. 30 How by knowing the weight of one Piece of Ordnance, to know the weight of any other Piece of that same mettle, or of any other mettle, being near of a shape. Chap. 31 How by knowing what quantity of powder will load one Piece of Ordnance, to know how much will load any other Piece. Chap. 32 To find whether a Piece of Ordnance be true bored or no. Chap. 33 A description of all sorts of Ordnance from the Cannon, to the base, of their weight, loding, shot, and all other things apperteining to them. Chap. 34 Of iron Ordnance, what quantity to allow for heir loding. Chap. 35 To know what quantity of powder should be allowed to a Piece not truly bored. Chap. 36 How to make Cartreges for Ordnance, and how to fill them by help of an inch Rule, to so many pounds and ounces as you please. chap. 37 How to give level to a piece of Ordnance, to make a shot at any mark within point blank. Chap. 38 How if the first shot do carry to the right, or left, or under, or over the mark: to amend it in making the next shot. Chap. 39 Of the Gunner's Quadrant, which is to be used in shooting at Randon, and what portion the degree of a Quadrant is. Chap. 40 To make an effectual shot out of a piece of Ordnance at Randon. Chap. 41 To make another sort of Instrument called the Gunner's Rule, which will serve to elevate a Piece of Ordnance with more facility than the Quadrant. Chap. 42 To divide the Gunners Rule into degrees by help of a Table. Chap. 43 To give level to a Piece of Ordnance with the Gunner's Rule, at any degree of Randon. Chap. 44 To make use of the last Table, to give level to a Piece of Ordnance without the Gunners Rule. Chap. 45 How to make a shot at the enemy's lights in the night. Chap. 46 How to make a perfect shot in a dark night, at any mark that may be seen in the day time, within the reach of the Piece. Chap. 47 How to make a perfect shot at a company of horsemen or footmen, passing by your Ordnance; and also to make a good shot at a Ship sailing up a River. Chap. 48 How to cause the same quantity both of powder and shot, discharged out of the same Piece, shall carry close or more scattering. Chap. 49 How a shot which sticketh fast within the concavity of a Piece, that it cannot be driven home unto the powder, may be shot out without danger to the Gunner, or hurt to the Piece. Chap. 50 A merry conceit to charge a Piece without Gunpowder. Chap. 51 A Piece of Ordnance at one selfsame elevation, and towards one selfsame place, with the like quantity of powder and shot, discharged several times, what ranges it will make. chap. 52 How many Horses, Oxen or Men will serve to draw any Piece of Artillery. Chap. 53 A description of the Instrument, wherewith the Reader must learn to take heights, depths, and distances. Chap. 54 The use of this Instrument, to find the height of a Tower or Castle which is accessible. Chap. 55 How to find the height of any Tower that is inaccessible. Chap. 56 How to perform the same operation when the parts cut fall on the right shadow. Chap. 57 How to take an Altitude at a place unapproachable, when the parts cut are of different Shadows. Chap. 58 How to find the Longitude or Distance to any place by the Square. Chap. 59 How to take the distance of divers places at one time, by help of the Circle that is described the Instrument. chap. 60 How by the aforesaid Instrument, to draw the Plot of a City or other Garrison, and to take the distance to every remarkable Object within Cannon shot. chap. 61 A TREATISE of Artificial FIREWORKS for the WARS. CHAP. 1. A description of the Morter-peece, and how to make one of Wood and Pasteboard for a need, those of Brass and Iron being wanting. How to fit and prepare Granades for the Morter-peece. chap. 2 The manner how to make Granades of Canvas for the Mortar. chap. 3 How to make fiery Arrows or Darts. chap. 4 How Granades are to be charged in the Mortar. chap. 5 How to level the Morter-peece, to make an effectual shot at any assigned mark. chap. 6 How to make Granades to be cast with men's hands. chap. 7 How to make fire Wheels, to be cast with men's hands. chap. 8 How to make and prepare a Petard. chap. 9 Of Artificial Fireworks for Recreation and Delight. How to make Rockets for the Air. chap. 10 How to make the Composition for Rockets of any Size. chap. 11 How to give fire to one or more Rockets. ch. 12 Divers Compositions for Stars. chap. 13 The manner of making Stars; and to use them. chap. 14 How to make silver and golden Rain, and how to use them. chap. 15 How to make Fisgigs, which some call by the name of Serpents, and to use them. chap. 16 How to make Girondels, or (as some call them) Fire Wheels. chap. 17 How to represent divers sorts of Figures in the Air with Rockets. chap. 18 How to make Fire-lances. chap. 19 How to make a Rocket, which firing it out of your hand shall continually be in agitation, either on the earth, or in the air. chap. 20 The manner how to make Balloons for the Morter-peece. chap. 21 A most precious unguent for any burning. c. 22 The Unguent. Otherwise. Another sort most excellent. The ART of GUNNERY: AND First of Gunpowder. CHAP. 1. Who were the first Inventors of Gunpowder, and how it came to be invented. SOme Italians have declared, That Archimedes the Philosopher was the first Inventor of Guns and Gunpowder; for Valturus declareth in the tenth book of Warfare, That Archimedes used a certain kind of Engine made of Iron, out of which he shot against an Army upon the land (with an incredible noise) stones of great weight and bigness; which Relation makes us believe, That it was an Engine like unto a Gun: But whether this be true, or not, is doubted, for learned men are of divers minds: Munster and Gilbert Cognot have written, That Guns were devised first in the year of our Lord 1370 by a Monk, whom Munster calleth Bertholdus Sthwarts: Mr. Dee our Countryman in his Mathematical Preface and Discourse of Menadre, saith, That an Englishman was the first Inventor of Gunpowder, though his said invention in another land, and by other men, was first executed: Also our English Chronicles do report, That in the year 1380, a Monk did unwillingly let fall a spark of fire upon Brimstone and Saltpetre, beaten to powder, in a Mortar, covered with a flat stone; he seeing this mixture blow off the stone from the Mortar, did thereupon devise a kind of Powder, and taught the Venetians to use the same in Iron pipes against the Genuates. CHAP. 2. What sorts of Powder they made (from time to time) from the first Invention, to this present. POwder was always made of Saltpetre, Brimstone and Charcoal; although some Authors have counselled to add to the said materials, Quicksilver, to make it more strong: others advise us to use Aquavitae; some would have us add thereto some Armoniac; some bid us put thereunto Camphir; some make Gunpowder with the coals of Bulrushes, and divers other ways, which I will not set down: But I will here show you the making of Gunpowder from time to time, as it was collected from such Authors as lived either one or two hundred years since; by which you may gather, how that Gunpowder hath still mended, and grown to great perfection since the first invention. The making of Gunpowder after the most ancient manner, Anno 1380. The first way, Saltpetre one part. Brimstone one part. Charcoal one part. The making of Gunpowder, as Authors teach, about the year 1410. The second way, Saltpetre three parts. Brimstone two parts. Charcoal two parts. The making of Gunpowder, as it was made in the year 1480. The third way, Saltpetre eight parts. Brimstone three parts. Charcoal three parts. The making of the best Powder about the year 1520. The fourth way, Saltpetre four parts. Charcoal one part. Brimstone one part. The best sort as is made now at this present. The fifth way, Saltpetre six parts. Brimstone one part. Charcoal one part. The Musket Powder is now commonly made of Saltpetre five parts, one part of Brimstone, and one of Cole; and Canon Powder of Saltpetre four times so much as of Brimstone and as of Cole. CHAP. 3. The reason why Power made of six pounds of Saltpetre, one pound of Brimstone, and one of Charcoal, is stronger than Powder made of seven pounds of Saltpetre, one of Brimstone, and one of Cole; and also stronger than Powder made of five pounds of Peter, one of Sulphur or Brimstone, and one of Cole: Or else why six of Peter, one of Sulphur, and one of Cole, is the strongest Powder that can be made. IT is certain, that the best Powder would be that in which is most Saltpetre, if a smaller quantity of Sulphur and Coal, then but once so much of either of them, as to be one sixth part to the quantity of Peter, might serve; which composition I will call 6— 1— 1, meaning six times so much Peter, as one time Sulphur, and one time Cole. But less Sulphur and Coal, as 7— 1— 1, the Sulphur and Coal are not able to perform and execute the office as they ought to do; that is to say, to be on fire quickly, and set the Saltpetre on fire, and to maintain the same fire, until it be wholly resolved into fire; therefore no more Sulphur and Coal to so much Peter, would be to little purpose: Certainly if Gunpowder were only made of Peter, that would be more strong than Powder made of Peter, Cole and Brimstone; but because the said Peter is not apt to burn in a flame quickly, as Brimstone will do, nor maintain the flame until all is consumed, as Cole will do, therefore it is needful to add Sulphur and Coal thereunto, and only such a quantity as will just serve turn: In Powder 5— 1— 1, by experience is found more Sulphur and Coal then needeth; yet it is good not only to make Powder of 5— 1— 1, which is Musket Powder, but also of 4— 1— 1, which serveth best for great Ordnance. Now the reason why this last sort should serve better for Ordnance, then Pistol Powder of 6— 1— 1, which is the strongest of all, I will show in the next Chapter. CHAP. 4. The reason why Pistol Powder being the strongest, is not so good for the Canon as Powder 4— 1— 1, the weakest; no not although you take but so much of the Pistol Powder as you find by an Engine to be of like strength with another quantity of Canon Powder. THe reason why Canon Powder is best for Ordnance, is because it taketh up a greater room in the Cylinder of the Piece, than Pistol Powder; for in taking up much room, it hath the greater fortification of Metal about it, to keep it from breaking the Piece: Suppose a Saker requireth four pound of great Powder for her loading, and I would know how much Pistol powder is equal in strength to four pound of Canon powder, trying by an Engine made of purpose to try powder, I find three pound to be of like force: you may easily conceive that the three pound hath but three quarters of the Metal of the Piece, to keep it from breaking, when as four pound hath one quarter more Metal than the other three had. To make it more plain, if you look into the second Chapter you shall find, That the first powder of all, was made of just so much Saltpetre, as of Cole, and of Sulphur, called 1— 1— 1; if you had such powder, and also one of the old Pieces made in those days, as some of them may yet be seen in many Cities of England, you could not load them with any other powder but they would break. You shall hear what I have done; I made such kind of powder as 1— 1— 1, and tried how much of that powder was in strength to one pound of Pistol powder, being 6— 1— 1, by an Engine I found three pounds and nine ounces, the Piece was Saker bore of Iron, and the thickness of the Metal about the Chamber, was two inches in thickness; I loaded the Piece with four pound of weak powder, which filled the Cylinder of the bore nine inches just; which nine inches in length, and two in thickness about the Chamber, is Two hundred twenty five inches of Metal about the powder, near Forty seven pounds weight, at this adventure the Piece came off safe; but being loaden with one pound and a quarter of fine powder almost, which filled the bore but two inches and three quarters, and had to its fortification but Sixty eight inches and three quarters, which is in weight fifteen pounds, at the discharge of the Gun, it broke in divers pieces: This was done in Deriton, upon the 17 of March, Anno Dom. 1644. as many people can witness. CHAP. 5. How to make Artificial Saltpetre of the Earth. Saltpetre is a mixture of many substances gotten with fire and water, out of dry and dirty earth, or out of that ground which is found lose within Vaults, Tombs, or desolate Caves, where rain cannot come in, and also Charnel houses; The best of all is made of beasts dung converted into earth, in Stables, or in Dunghills, of a long time not used; and it is requisite, what dung soever it be, that by long continuance of time it be well resolved into earth, and all the moistness dried up: When you have occasion to make of this dung, or earth, a great quantity of Saltpetre, it will be necessary for you to provide many Cauldrons, Furnaces, Barrels and Tubs, and wood for fire; these Barrels must be set on end upon a Form, the top being taken out, and near the bottom a hole bored with an Augre; you must cover the inside of those holes with an earthen Porringer, and stop the outside with Taps; then fill up the Barrel with the said earth within a span of the brim, and remember that the earth about the said vessels should be rammed down, yet that part of the earth that lieth in the midst of the vessel, may lie lose; afterwards pour a Bucket of clean water upon the earth, and after that pour another, not failing to do so till all the earth within the Tub be well moistened, which ought to continue thus one day and night, the water a full hands breadth above the earth; then pull out the Taps or Spiggots out of the holes in the vessel, and let the water drop out of that vessel into another, being set under it: When you see no more water will drop, empty the undermost vessel again into the uppermost, out of which it did drop, and out of the same let it drop again, so long and so much as it can; this water when it hath dropped twice, is called water of Foot, and also the wash of earth, and must be saved by itself: After this pour other clean water upon the very same mould in the Tub, and when the said water hath dropped out of the higher vessel into the Tub that stands under, take all the earth out of the upper vessel, and fill it with more of the said earth, then pour upon this earth in the vessel, the water as you made first, called water of Foot, and wash of earth, suffering it to drop through the same into the undermost Tub, standing under the earth Tub, so often until it be so salt as to by't your tongue, and that an egg will swim on the top of the water: The first water being brought to this perfection, pour the second water upon the said earth, or other earth, that it may by often passing through be of as biting a taste as the former, as also able to bear up an egg: Now this second water being very strong, must be boiled in a Cauldron, and after it hath well boiled, abate the fire under the Cauldron, until you have taken off it all the scum, which must be saved in a Pot; then presently make a good fire, to cause it to boil again with speed, and as the water in the Cauldron diminisheth, scum the said water, and keep the said scum: When the scum shall be thick, hard, and of a French Russet colour, take some water out of the Cauldron, and let it drop upon a piece of Iron, for if the water be boiled enough, the drops of water will congeal upon the same Iron, but if they do not congeal, it is a sign it may abide the fire longer; when it's boiled, as you may perceive by the aforenamed signs, take it from the fire, and preserve it, because it is the Peter-water: Now when you have made an end of boiling the second water, you must boil and scum the first water (named water of Foot, or wash of earth) till it shall cast up a scum of a French Russet colour, unto which if it should happen to cleave to the sides of the Cauldron, you may put in the other Russet scum (that was made and saved by you before) to boil with it, until the drops of this water falling upon Iron will congeal; if this congealed water be very soft, you must boil it longer, but if hard, it is a sign it is burned; to amend this fault, put some clear water thereunto to amend it, then taking the Cauldron from off the fire, and setting it a stoop, so that the lies and drugs (which being congealed are the very salt whereof Saltpetre is made) may not with any water run over the brims of the vessel: You must (if you will make good Peter) suffer the said water to settle in the same vessel, and congeal in a darkish room, and the water which after two or three days will not congeal, hath dropped into some other Tub, take the Saltpetre out, and preserve the water that dropped, because it is Master water, and shall afterwards be used as I shall give you directions. CHAP. 6. To make another excellent sort of Saltpetre of Flower that groweth on walls: How Saltpetre water must be boiled, and how you may know when it is boiled enough. TAke of flower or plaster that groweth on walls four parts, of unslact lime one part; this one part of lime must be well boiled in water over a fire, and after it hath boiled enough, it must be taken from the fire, and suffered to settle, than it must be strained into another vessel; then put the four parts of flower into such a vessel as I in the last Chapter ordered for earth; pour upon the said flower so much of the strained water, which I call lie or lime water, as will dissolve the flower; when the flower is dissolved, let the water drop out of the said vessel, into an under vessel; then boil those said drops of lime water over the fire, till they being put upon Iron will congeal, and be of a temperate hardness; for if they are very hard, the water is burned, but if soft, not enough; when it is well boiled (that is, to have the drops thereof on Iron neither too hard nor too soft) take it from the fire, and scum it with a scummer, and do unto it all that hath been taught in the last Chapter to be done with Peter-water. CHAP. 7. To make a third sort of Saltpetre very excellent, and with more ease, and less cost than the two former ways. TAke Quicklime, and pour warm water upon it, and let it stand six days, stirring it once or twice a day; take the clear of this water, set it in the Sun until it be wasted, and the Saltpetre will remain in the bottom. CHAP. 8. How to refine Saltpetre, to make it fit for use. PUt Saltpetre with well slacked lime into a clean Cauldron, and pour upon it so much lime water, or fair water, as will lie four fingers in height above the Peter and lime, and make a good fire under the Cauldron, that they may quickly boil, and be you ready, as scum shall rise, to take it away with a scummer; when you perceive that no more scum will rise, take the Kettle from the fire, and setting it somewhat aslope, let the boiled water cool, settle and clear in the Sun; if the boiled water will not wax clean by this means, put ashes into it, and boil the same again a little while: This done, take the Cauldron again from the fire, and set it aslope, sprinkle on the boiled water some fair water cold, for by so doing you shall make the said water clear; this water being clear, must by little and little be poured out into some other vessel, so that the dregs or grounds may not go out with the same; for the water which lieth above in the vessel Saltpetre is made, and in the water below at the bottom of the vessel, which are the lies or dregs of Saltpetre; after you have in this sort poured out the said water into other vessels, and have suffered the same for two days (or more if need be) to congeal in the same vessels, you must take the said congealed water (which is Salt-peter) out of the vessels, and dry the same with the heat of the Sun, or by the fire. After you have taken the said Saltpetre out of the vessels, the water which remains boil over a good fire, and when it casts up any scum, take the scum off, then try whether it be enough, by dropping some on Iron, if it congeal in a temperate way, take it from the fire; this being done, as it cooleth you shall see a thin skin to lie upon the water, which also scum off; this water will then congeal into Peter, as did the other, but it is not so good. To refine Saltpetre with fire, do thus, Take an Iron Skellet and fill it with Peter, set it on the fire, and cover it close with some Iron cover on the top, or with a Tile; when the Saltpetre is melted, take Brimstone most finely beaten, and cast some thereon, kindle it, and let it burn till all the upper part be burned; which when effected, will leave the Saltpetre clear like to a piece of Marble, for the Brimstone will burn up the gross victiousness of the Saltpetre. CHAP. 9 How Saltpetre meal is made; and how Peter meal without any beating, will serve to make Gunpowder with his materials. Hung a Kettle over the fire, and put Saltpetre therein; when it shall begin to boil, fry and smoke, stir it about with a wooden Ladle, cease not to mingle the Saltpetre well together, until it wax dry, for by so doing you shall take away the grease and salt that was in it; then pouring so much water into the Kettle as will cover the Peter, you must melt the Peter again over the fire, continually stirring it, until it become dry as before, and be like meal. CHAP. 10. How the makers of Gunpowder do mingle together the materials of which they do make Gunpowder: And also how to corn the Powder. PUt all the Saltpetre together that you will use into a Cauldron, for if it be to make Canon powder, you must take four parts of Peter, one part Brimstone, and one part Cole; if Musket powder 5— 1— 1; if Pistol powder 6— 1— 1: boil the Saltpetre in a Cauldron, with so much water as will serve to dissolve it; which being so dissolved, aught to be washed and laid upon a clean place; this done, beat into dust the quantity of Cole that is to be added to this mixture, and then put this dust or fine beaten Coal unto the dissolved Peter, incorporate them very well together, and as you are blending them, put in by little and little the Sulphur very well beaten; when this mixture of Saltpetre, Brimstone and Cole are well incorporated, lay it forth to dry a little; when the same mixture is somewhat dried, by beating the Coal until it is subtle and in palpable, and is made a very well mixed substance, sift it well through a sieve; then casting water or vinegar upon it, corn it; and when you have so done, dry it against the fire, and Gunpowder is made. There are divers ways to grind Gunpowder, the best way is to stamp it in Mortars, with a Horse-mill or Water-mill, for the powder is thereby most finely beaten, and with least labour; with a knife cut in pieces some of this composition, and if it appear all black, it is well done, but if any of the Brimstone or Peter is seen, it is not incorporated enough: Now I will show you how to corn Gunpowder. First, prepare a sieve, with a bottom of thick parchment, made full of round holes, then moisten the powder, which shall be corned, with water, put the same and also a little bowl into the sieve, when you have so done, sift the powder, so as the bowl rolling up and down in the sive, may break the clods of powder, and make it by running through the little holes, to corn. You may also make Gunpowder by sifting every one of the three materials by itself through a very fine sieve, and then moisten them with strong vinegar, and incorporate them together, for through that moistness the powder will be made more stronger, and beaten more finer, than corn it as before is taught: Note, That if you cannot sift it through the sieve, beat that again into powder which will not through, until it will go through also; when you have sifted these materials two or three times severally, then blend them well together, and sift them also together; when you have done this, then moisten them with vinegar, and proceed as before: Remember also, That Charcoal made of the lightest wood is best. CHAP. 11. To make Powder of divers colours; and first to make White Powder. TAke of Saltpetre twelve parts, of Brimstone two parts, and of Camphir one part, beat, sift and incorporate all these things together, as before you have been taught to mix other materials together; after you have so done, beat these things so again, and so oft, until you are sure they are well incorporated, then mosten it with Aquavitae; when you have thus done, corn the powder. To make Red Powder. Take of Saltpetre twelve parts, of Brimstone two parts, and of Camphir one part, beat, sift and incorporate all these things together, as I taught just now; then beat them again, until they are perfectly incorporated: whereas before you moistened them with good Aquavitae, now you must moisten this with Vinegar (sod with a good quantity of Brasil, until the third part be boiled away) this Vinegar being red as blood, will make the powder likewise so, it being moistened with it, and then corned as before is taught. To make any other coloured Powder. Boil the Vinegar in such transparent colours as you would have the powder to be of; as if green, with a little Verdigreace, if blue, with blue Bice, and the like; always taking care, That the colour be not thick, but very thin, otherwise it will weaken the powder that you do make. CHAP. 12. To renew and make good again any sort of Gunpowder that hath lost its strength by moisture, long lying, or by any other means. HAving moistened the said Gunpowder with Vinegar, or fair water, beat it well in a Mortar, and then sift it through a sieve or fine searse; with every pound of Gunpowder, mingle one ounce of Saltpetre that hath been mealed; and when you have so done, beat and moisten this mixture again, until you see by breaking or cutting with a knife, that there is no sign of Saltpetre or Brimstone in it: Moreover, corn this powder when it is incorporated with the Peter as it ought to be, and you have done. CHAP. 13. Another way to renew Gunpowder, or rather to unmake Gunpowder, to make it good, in the making it again. PUt so much thereof (as you will refine or new make again) into a linen bag, and then tie a string or rather small cord about the mouth of the said bag, than put it into a clean Kettle, and pour so much water therein as will cover the bag; this done, make the water to boil, till a drop of it laid upon iron or stone will congeal; and while the water boileth, remember to scum it, if need require; when it will congeal, take it from the fire, and set the Kettle aslope; when the water is as clear as it will be, pour it out into some vessel where it will congeal into Saltpetre; when you have taken the Saltpetre out of the said vessel, that water as remains, boil again, until it will (by dropping a drop thereof 〈◊〉 iron) congeal, than put it again into the same vessel: and thus do with all such 〈◊〉 as is last, after you have taken out 〈◊〉 Peter. The Saltpetre and Brimstone which were within the said bag, did dissolve and soak into the boiling water; yea, the dissolved Peter turned into water, and the Brimstone sunk down to the bottom of the water, where you may find it; but the Coals (which were formerly compounded with the Peter and Brimstone) they remain in the bag, amongst the lies and dregs of the decayed Gunpowder: therefore when you have gathered together all the Saltpetre by the means above named, and dried the same, weigh it, and also weigh the Brimstone and Cole by themselves, and what you find every thing to want in its quality and due proportion, make up with more, then mingle, beat and incorporate them, as you have been taught to make new Gunpowder. CHAP. 14. How you may by taste, feeling, colour and burning, know good and ill Powder; and how amongst many sorts of Gunpowder you may know the best sort. 1. BY how much Gunpowder is the harder in feeling, by so much the better it is. 2. Gunpowder of a fair Azure or French Russet colour, is very good, and it may be judged to have all its receipts well wrought, and sufficient of the Peter well refined. 3. Lay two or three corns of Gunpowder upon a white piece of paper, the one three fingers distant from the other, and put fire to one of them, if the powder be good and strong, you shall see them all on fire at once, and that there will remain no grossness of Brimstone or of Saltpetre, no not any thing but a white smoky colour in the place where they were burned, neither will the paper be touched. 4. If good Gunpowder be laid upon the palm of your hand, and set on fire, you will not be burned. 5. Gunpowder that hath a very sharp taste, hath abundance of the Peter not well refined, and will moisten again. 6. If white knots, or knots of a french russet colour, shall remain after powder is fired, it is a sign that the Saltpetre was not well refined, but left full of salt, and grease; especially when the same knots shall in burning be dankish, and leave moisture in the place where the Gunpowder was burned. 7. If hard, dry and white knots, or pearls, shall remain after the Gunpowder is set on fire, it is a sign that the Gunpowder is not well wrought, and it becometh every Gunner to beware of such powder, because if it doth lie long in a Piece, it will wax so fine, that if you unload not the Piece, it will in his discharge endanger the Piece of breaking. 8. If small black knots (which will burn downwards in the place where proof is made) remain after firing, they do show that the Gunpowder hath not enough of the Peter, and that it is of little force or strength, and slow in firing. 9 If a little heap of Gunpowder set a fire, doth make a noise, rise up with great speed, and yield little smoke, it is a sign of very good powder. 10. If the flame of fired Gunpowder shall rise up slowly, continue long, make little noise, and yield smoke in great abundance, it is a sign the powder hath much Coal and Brimstone, and too little Peter. 11. If Gunpowder burned upon a board shall black the same, it is a sign that there is overmuch Cole in that powder. 12. When Gunpowder is moist, or full of the earth of Saltpetre, it is naught to be shot out of great Ordnance, for it shameth the Gunner which useth it. 13. If Gunpowder be very black, it is either a sign that there is too much Coal, or that it is moist, and when you rub it upon white paper, it will black it more than other good Gunpowder will do. 14. Amongst many sorts of powder to know the best, make a little heap of every sort, and then setting those heaps one from another, mark well when you put fire unto them, which of the heaps did soon take fire; for that powder which will soon be on fire, smoke least, and leave least sign behind it, is the best sort of Gunpowder. CHAP. 15. How to make excellent good match to give fire to any Ordnance, etc. TAke cords made of hemp that's not very fine, or of toe, which is better, although it will sooner consume, and let every cord be so big as a man's little finger; this done, boil the said cords in strong lie, ashes, and a little Saltpetre till all the lie be wasted. CHAP. 16. How to make an Engine to find what proportion of strength one kind of powder is in comparison of other powder. THe lid of this Engine is made to rise up in a strait line, and is as big as the box, and also hollow; on each side of the lid or cover, is a small hole for a wire to pass through, and on one of the pillars of the Engine are little pieces of brass, or steel, so fitted that they may rise with a touch, and give way to the rising of the lid, and so soon as it is past, will hold it there, and will not suffer it to pass back again; the form whereof is here presented. labeled diagram of engine described in chapter 16 H G G D E F F G E C B A A The foot whereon the Engine standeth. B The powder box, which hath too small wires passing from each side to the top, to keep steady the lid in its motion. D The lid, which hath also two holes on each side for the wires to pass through E the side of the Engine, which is divided, on which is placed at every division, one of those Pieces to slide up and catch the lid. FF The form of these catches, being either of steel or brass. GG The too wires that guide the box lid, and must be put into a little piece of brass, at the top, which may be screwed higher or lower at pleasure, for the better straightening of the same. H The screw which straightneth those wires, placed on the top. The use of this Engine. Take about one dram of such a sort of powder as you esteem to be the best of all others, and put it into the box, after it is covered with the lid, at the touchhole, which is in the bottom of the box, fire it with a red hot wire, being first primed with powder dust; then observe how high and to what division it ascends, which being noted down, take just so much powder of a courser sort, and try that in like manner as you did the former; then by noting up to what degree it ascendeth to, you may perceive the just difference between your best and worst powder; and by the same order of any other sort, as you shall desire to know its strength, and have occasion to use. But in the next Chapter, I shall describe some other ways, because every man cannot come by a good instrument to try the just strength of any powder. CHAP. 17. How to try the strength of Powder some other ways than is before rehearsed. IF you charge a Pistol, and discharge it against a bank of clay; do this with a little powder, always observing to take the like quantity to a grain of one sort of powder, as you do another sort: Then by measuring how far the bullet pierced in the clay, you may have some guess at the strength: also if you can make Rockets, such as fly into the air, and are made of Powder-dust, and Charcole-dust, by the strength or weakness of these you may know the like of powder. If you can get a little Mortar Piece (what a Mortar Piece is you may read anon) cast at the iron furnace where cast the iron is made, to get one made in such a place is no difficult thing: Let it be made about three inches Diana: at the mouth, and let the Chamber of the said Piece be three quarters of an inch Diana: and two inches and one third part of an inch deep, load the Chamber with about half an ounce of powder, but put no wad in after it, the reason is, because one wad may be bigger than another, which will cause error; then put into your Motter a Bullet of Lead or Iron that will just fit the bore: now if it be of Iron, it will weigh three pound and ten ounces, if of Lead, almost five pound: This Morter-piece being erected at a certain and unvariable elevation, and then being discharged, shall (by its several ranges) tell the exact difference of powder above any other instrument that can be invented, for by noting how many paces a shot rangeth, you shall find the true difference, and be able to set down the true and infallible proportion betwixt all sorts of powder whatsoever. Because you may fail in procuring one made at the Furnace where Iron is made, I will show you in the following Treatise, how you may make such a one which may serve your turn. Thus having in the foregoing Treatise set down by whom, at what time, of what strength and violence Gunpowder was at when invented; also how to make any sort of Gunpowder, & lastly to try its strength: I shall hence-following set down such Rules, that an ingenious man may learn to be a perfect Gunner, for I have omitted nothing that is necessary in that Art. CHAP. 18. Henceforward shall be taught the Art of Gunnery: And first, what hath been the cause why this Science is not of the like esteem as such a noble Art deserveth, and who are the causers and disesteemers of it. THe true reason why this so famous an Art is at this present so slighted, is because divers men for lucre of gains and good pay, have made friends, or some of them are friends and kinsmen to such as have authority to place and displace Gunners; and when such men as these should do service against the Enemy with their Guns, they bewray themselves what they are, which maketh some as ignorant Commanders (as they themselves are ignorant Gunners) to say, I could have made a better shot myself; I do not think but I could levelly a piece with the best Gunner in England; it is as easy to shoot in a great Gun as in a Musket; what need is there of maintaining any to be Gunners, considering we may have men at the twinkling of an eye to do as good service, and are as good Gunners as these; such speeches are usual, when tidings of little or no service comes to the knowledge of such Committees and Governors (they never find fault with themselves) that choose those Gunners, because divers of them are their friends and kinsmen, but lay all the blame on the Art saying, It is unprofitable, it spends more powder than does good service; scarce ever considering what a good Gunner may do: I appeal to any reasonable man's judgemen, whether so good Music can be expected from him who never touched Instrument, as from him which hath served and practised above seven years in that profession? if an Instrument be naught, the Music cannot be very good; likewise if a Gun be naught, it cannot work good effects: as in Music, if any strings be wanting it is defective; thus in Guns, if materials be wanting, no reasonable man can expect the like service, as when nothing is wanting, though it be at the hands of a good Gunner. It is an evident thing, that if the shot hit such a mark (where execution may be done) that the effect will be according to every one's desire: It is also as evident, that the Art of Gunnery doth teach how, and with what Piece to hit any mark in its command: And it is also as evident, that such Gunners may be found which are perfect in the whole Art; therefore (I conclude) that it is most of all evident, that the fault is not in this Art, but in such Commanders, Committees and others which the King or Parliament trusts in their Army or Garrisons to make choice of Gunners. CHAP. 19 The Properties, Office and Duty of a Gunner. A Gunner ought to be skilful in Arithmetic and Geometry, to the end he may be able through his knowledge in those Arts, to measure heights, depths, breadths and length, and to draw the plot of any piece of ground, to make Mines, Countermines, Artificial Fireworks, Rampiars, Baskets of earth, and such like things which are used in the time of War, to be made for offensive or defensive service. A Gunner that hath a charge, aught to have in readiness all necessary things for his Artillery, these are Wheels, Axeltrees, Ladles, Rammers, Sheepskins to make Sponges, Gunpowder, Shot, Tampions, Chain shot, Cross bar-shot, Canvas, or strong paper (to make Cartredges) Fireworks, artificial Torches, dark Lanterns, a gin to mount and dismount Guns, Hand-spikes, Coins, Budge-barrels to carry powder, and Baskets to carry shot to your Piece; he is always, when leisure will permit, to choose good Matchcords, to arm his Linstock wherewith he must give fire. A Gunner should never be without a Ruler and Compasses to measure the Diameter or Boar of every Piece; and also the length of the Cylinder within, the better to fit her with a shot, and proportion a charge. A Gunner ought to know the names, length, weight and fortification of every Piece about the Chamber (that is, so far as the Piece is loaden with powder) and be able to tell readily how much Gunpowder is a due charge for every Piece, what shot is fit, how many Matrosses must attend the same upon service, how many Horses or Oxen will draw the said Piece, and in case they cannot be had, how many men will serve: And lastly, he should know how to charge and discharge Gunner like. A Gunner ought not at any time to beat up the head of his powder barrels with an iron tool, but with a wooden mallet, which can never fire the same. Every Gunner before he beginneth to shoot, aught to consider, that a long wad of Hay, or of untwisted Ropes, will make the shot to shoot wide of the mark. Every Gunner before he beginneth to shoot, aught to consider, whether the Trunnions be truly placed in the Carriage, whether the Carriage have a true length, whether one wheel be higher or reverse faster than the other, whether the platform whereon the Piece is to do service, be level, or not; if not, to get the same amended: Lastly, to make clean the platform, that no stone or other thing lie for the wheels to run upon, for all these things not well observed, will cause the Piece to err. Every Gunner before he loadeth his Piece, must try whether it be true bored or not; if not, he is to proportion his charge according to the thinnest side of the metal; he must take his observation at the brich of the Piece, just over where he shall find (by his art) where the middle of the bore within the Piece is; by this means he shall make a good shot, out of a bad Piece. Every Gunner before he makes his shot, aught to consider that if the Piece lie pointblank, or under metal, he ought to put in a sufficient wad after the shot, to keep it close to the powder; for if it should not be close, but some distance between, the Piece would break in the vacant place: but if in case you mount your Piece, than put no wad after the shot. And one chief thing in the last place, to know very well how to dispart his Piece, be it either true bored, or not true bored, which he may try first. CHAP. 20. What qualifications every man ought to have, when he first gets or obtains (from such as are in Authority) Commission to be a Gunner. HE ought to have skill in the Arithmetic, to Add, Subtract, Multiply, Divide, to work any conclusion by the single or double Rule of Three; to abstract both the Square and Cube Roots, and to be perfect in the Art of Decimal Arithmetic: To touch these things I need not, being learnedly treated of by Mr. Record, Mr. Johnson, and best of all by Jurdans' Arithmetic; all which Books are easy to be had, and at a cheap price: Whosoever hath not these qualifications, and no desire to learn them, he shall never be good Gunner; therefore I boldly affirm, That no honest man takes upon him this profession (but such as are thus learned) for it is not the duty of an honest man, to undertake that (for the King or Parliament service) as he is not able to perform. When a fit man is entertained, the Master Gunner whom he serves should bring him to his Piece, and give him the denomination of every particular part, and other necessary things belonging to his Piece; which when he hath perfectly learned (which is the Base-Ring, the Trunnion-Ring, or Rings, the Trunnions, the Mussel-Ring, the Handspikes, the Coins; and also described how far in the Boar is called the Chamber of his Piece) he may, these things understood, proceed as followeth. CHAP. 21. How to make the true Dispart of any (true bored) Piece of Ordnance. Gird the Piece round about the Base-Ring at the britch with a third, and also the Mussel-Ring at the mouth; lay these two strings upon a Table at length, and make two marks for the length of each string; divide the distance between each of these two marks into Twenty two equal parts, with your compasses, and seven of them is the just Diameter; then measure with your compasses how many inches, and parts of an inch, each of these Diameters are; subtract the greater Diameter out of the lesser, and take the just half of the difference, and that is the true Dispart, in inches and parts of an inch. Example. Suppose when I have measured the length of each string, and divided it into Twenty two equal parts, I find that seven parts of the longer string are ten inches, and seven parts of the shorter are Eight inches; I subtract eight out of ten, and there remains two, the just half of this is one, which is the true Dispart. Another way to Dispart any Piece. Take two sticks (each of them must be longer than the Diana: of the Piece) and also make a plummet of lead to hang in a small third, put one of the ends of the stick, which you shall lay across the top of the Base-ring, to and fro, until the plummet descending from the end thereof, may just touch the side of the metal of the said Ring; then keeping fast the stick in that place, hang your plummet by the other side of the stick, until it just touch the metal of the Base-Ring on that side; when you have thus done, cut off the stick just at that place from whence the plummet descended perpendicularly; and this length is the just Diameter of the Base-Ring, upon this manner you must make the length of the Diameter of the Mussel-Ring: Finally, put these sticks together, and find the difference, the just half thereof is the true Dispart: But I could advise the ingenious a cannon Practitioner to try both ways, and in case he finds any difference, to try and try again, otherwise he may be deceived: For the better understanding of this conclusion, I have here prefixed the demonstration. A third way to Dispart a Piece of Ordnance. If the Piece be not Chamber-bored, take the priming iron, and put it down in the touchhole, until it stop at the metal in the bottom of the bore, there make a mark level with the Base-Ring, apply the priming iron to the bottom of the metal at the mouth, and so much higher as the mark is (which you made at the Base-Ring) than the Mussel-Ring, so much is the true Dispart. CHAP. 22. An observation to know whether your Piece be Chamber-bored. FIrst, Dispart the Piece the two first ways, and when those two ways agree in one, take that for the true Dispart; then with your priming iron take the Dispart this last way; which done, compare it with the other Dispart first found, and what it wants is the just difference of the Chamber from the Boar of the Piece: Suppose the Dispart truly found by the two first ways be three inches, and by this last way to be but two inches, it shows that the Chamber differs from the true Boar on each side one inch; so that if the Boar of the Piece be six inches high, the Chamber being one inch on each side lower, is but four inches high: This observation I would always have you to make, that you be not afterwards deceived, in making Cartredges of Paper to load the same withal. CHAP. 23. To know what Diameter every shot must be of, to fit any Piece of Ordnance; or to choose shot for Ordnance. DIvide the Boar of the Piece into Twenty equal parts, and one of these parts is sufficient vent for any Piece; the rest of the nineteen parts must be the height of the shot: But most Gunners now adays allow the shot to be just one quarter of an inch lower than the Boar of the Piece; which rule makes the shot too big for a Canon, and too little for a Falcon; but if the mouth of the Piece be grown wider than the rest of the cylinder within, by often shooting; to choose a shot for such a Piece, you must try with several Rammer heads, until you find the Diameter of the Boar in that place where the shot useth to lie in the Piece; and a shot of one Twentieth part lower than that place, is sufficient. Every Gunner ought to try his Piece, whether it be not wider in the mouth then the rest of the Chase, and then proceed to choose his shot. CHAP. 24. To find what flaws, cracks and honycombs are in Pieces of Ordnance. SO soon as you have discharged a Piece of Ordnance, cover the mouth of the Piece close, and stop the touchhole at that instant; by this you may know if any unknown cracks or flaws do go through the metal, for if they do, a visible smoke will come through those cracks and flaws. Also it is a good way, when the Sun shineth, to take a steel (or other) Looking-glass, and with the same, reflect the beams of the Sun into the mouth or hollow Cylinder of the Piece; for by this means a bright and clear light will be within, and by that splendous light you shall see every flaw, crack or honycomb. But in case the Sun doth not shine, take a stick, somewhat longer than the piece, having cloven one end of the said stick for to hold an end of candle, put the said stick, with the candle lighted, into the Piece; by this light observe, so well as you can, whether from the one end to the other, there be any of the aforesaid in the Piece. Also, if (in striking a Piece of Artillery upon the outside of the metal with an iron hammer) you shall at any stroke hear a hoarse sound, then without doubt there are honycombs, etc. but if you so striking the Piece shall at every stroke hear a clear sound, assuredly the Piece is clear of any dangerous flaws cracks or honycombs. CHAP. 25. How to find the Diameter of any round shot, by the circumference. cannonball and calipers YOu must gird the shot with a line, then divide that line into twenty two equal parts, and Seven of those parts is the Diameter or height of the shot. But the best way to avoid all mistakes is to take the said height or Diana: of the shot with a pair of Callaper compasses, as you may see by this demonstration. Also by such a pair of Callapers you may find the Diana: of the Base-Ring, and of the Mussel-Ring, of any Piece of Ordnance; and by taking half the difference of those two Diameters you may make the dispart. CHAP. 26. How by knowing the height and weight of one bullet, to find the weight of another bullet, the height being given. A Bullet of iron of six inches high, weigheth thirty pounds; what will the like bullet of seven inches in height weigh? Resolution, first, Multiply six cubically, then multiply seven cubically; then as the cube of six, is in proportion to the cube of seven; so thirty pounds (the weight of a shot of six inches high) is to so many pounds as a shot of seven inches high will weigh. Example. First, I multiply six cubically, there ariseth two hundred and sixteen, than I multiply seven cubically, which is three hundred forty nine; then I say, as two hundred and sixteen is to three hundred forty three, so thirty (the weight of six inches high) is to forty seven pounds, ten ounces, and one quarter; the weight of a shot seven inches high. How to help those that cannot abstract the cube root (to resolve this proportion) two several ways. The first way is, to learn the use of a Table of cube roots, which I have annexed for the use and help of such as cannot extract the cube root, because my book should be as profitable an help as any Book ever hath yet been; for by this Table, you may learn to work almost any conclusion, as well as if you could extract the Root, and with more case. An excellent Table to find the Cube root of any number not exceeding 1000000. The root. The cube. 1 ¼ 1.95 1½ 3.37 1 ¾ 5.36 2 8 2 ¼ 11.39 2 ½ 15.62 2 ¾ 20.80 3 27 3 ¼ 34.33 3 ½ 42.82 3 ¾ 52.73 4 64 4 ¼ 76.77 4 ½ 91.12 4 ¾ 107.17 5 125 5 ¼ 144.90 5 ½ 167.37 5 ¾ 190.11 6 216 6 ¼ 244.14 6 ½ 274.62 6 ¾ 307.55 7 343 7 ¼ 381. ●8 7 ½ 421.87 7 ¾ 465.48 8 512 8 ¼ 561.51 8 ½ 614.12 8 ¾ 669.92 9 727 9 ¼ 791.45 9 ½ 857.37 9 ¾ 926.89 10 1000 10 ½ 115.76 11 1331 11 ½ 1520.87 12 1728 12 ½ 1953.12 13 2197 13 ½ 2460. ●7 14 2744 14 ½ 30275 25 15 3375 15 ½ 3724 16 4096 16 ½ 4492 17 4913 17 ½ 5359 18 5832 18 ½ 6332 19 6859 19 ½ 7415 20 8000 20 ½ 8615 21 9261 21 ½ 9938 22 10648 22 ½ 11390 23 12167 23 ½ 127●8 24 13024 24 ½ 14705 25 15625 25 ½ 16581 26 17576 26 ½ 18609 27 19683 27 ½ 20797 28 21972 28 ½ 23149 29 24389 29 ½ 25672 30 27000 30 ½ 28372 31 29792 32 32768 33 35937 34 39304 35 42125 36 48656 37 50653 38 54872 39 55419 40 64000 41 68921 42 74088 43 79507 44 85184 45 91125 46 97336 47 103823 48 110592 49 117649 50 125000 51 135651 52 140608 53 148877 54 157464 55 167375 56 175616 58 195112 59 205379 60 216000 61 216981 62 238328 63 250047 64 262344 65 274635 66 287496 67 300753 68 314432 69 329199 70 333000 71 357911 72 373348 73 389017 74 405224 75 421875 76 438276 77 456533 78 474522 79 493039 80 512000 81 531441 82 550408 83 571787 84 592604 85 614125 86 646056 87 648303 88 68●472 89 701669 90 729000 91 753571 92 778688 93 804357 94 830584 95 857375 96 884736 97 615673 98 941192 99 970299 100 1000000 To work the last proposition by the Table. First, In place of multiplying 6 cubically, find 6 in the Table, and right against it you shall have 216, which is the cube of 6; then find 7 likewise under the title Root, and under the title Cube you shall find 343, the Cube of 7; then consider, that so much as 216 is in proportion to 343, the like proportion 30 is to 47 pounds and ten ounces. There is much about seven cube inches of iron in one pound; by this rule you may find 7 thirty times in 216 and 7; you may find seven to be contained in 343, just forty nine times, but this rule is not so perfect as the former, because in subtracting seven out of 216, you shall find thirty pounds and 6/7 parts, which is too much by the fraction. CHAP. 27. How by knowing the height and weight of one shot, to know the height of any other shot, the weight being given. SUppose the height of the shot be three inches and three quarters, and the weight seven pounds five ounces; I would know what a shot of sixteen pounds would be in height, according to the same proportion? First, find the Cube root of three inches three quarters, which you may do by the Table; then as the seven pounds five ounces is to the Cube of 3 ¾, so sixteen pounds is to such a Cube, whose root is the height of the shot sought for. Example By the Table I find the Cube of three inches three quarters to be 52, and 73 hundred parts of one unit (for all the fractions are so many parts of one unit, the said unit being divided into 100 parts) then as seven pounds five ounces (the weight of a shot of inches 3 ¾ diam:) is in proportion to 52 73 the Cube of inches 3 ¾ the height of the said shot; so 16 (the weight of that shot whose height you seek) to 115 the Cube, whose root being found in the Table, is four inches three quarters, and somewhat more: for in the Table, the nearest number to 115, is 107, the just Cube of four inches three quarters; and this number 115 exceeding the former by eight, this showeth that it is a very small deal higher, scarce one half quarter of an inch: And you may also perceive by the last rule in the 26 Chapter, that seven inches cubical make a pound: now finding this to exceed 107 (the Cube of 4 ¾) eight cubical inches, you may conclude, that it is one pound, and one seventh part of a pound heavier than a shot of just four inches three quarters height. CHAP. 28. To find what proportion is between Bullets of iron, lead and stone; and by knowing the weight of one shot of lead, to find the weight of any other shot of iron, brass or stone of the like Diameter. THe proportion between lead and iron, is as two to three; so that a shot of three pounds of lead is of the like Diameter or height as two pounds of iron. The proportion betwixt lead and brass, is as twenty four to nineteen. The proportion between lead and stone, is as four to one; so that one shot of lead of forty pounds, is of the height as a stone shot of ten pounds. The proportion betwixt iron and brass, is as sixteen to eighteen. The proportion betwixt iron and stone, is as three to eight; so that a shot of thirty pounds of stone, is as big as the like shot of eighty pounds' iron. The Reader taking these proportions into consideration, and having knowledge in the Art of Arithmetic, may with ease calculate (if iron shot be wanting, and the other to be had) what height and weight either shot of lead, brass or stone, aught to be of, to fit any Piece of Ordnance: But for such as are not acquainted with Arithmetic, to calculate these proportions, for their help I framed a Table, that doth show the weight of any shot of lead, iron and stone, from two inches Diameter, to eight inches, dividing every inch into quarters. I do confess that some sort of stone is much heavier than other; but such as you ought to use, should be that which is most compact, as Marble, Pibble stones also may be found which are round, and hard blue stone, such as divers Tombs are made of, it being somewhat courser then Marble; all these to my knowledge are much about that proportion as I have given: But such as is soft, as Freestone, and the like, they are not so ponderous as the other, nor so fit for use: Also lead, the finer and nearer to tin, the less weight it is. You are to note, That in loading your Piece with a shot of stone, you are not to load the Piece with so much powder as you did formerly with iron shot, but abate, according to the proportion as is between stone and iron. CHAP. 29. A Table to find the weight of any shot of Iron, Led or Stone, from two to eight inches Diameter, exactly calculated. Inches and parts of inch Led. Iron. Stone. pound. ounc. pound. ounc. pound. ounc. 2 1 10 half. 1 1 0 7 2 one quart. 2 6 1 9 0 9 2 and a half. 3 3 2 2 0 12 2 three quar. 4 5 2 14 1 1 3 5 10 3 12 1 7 3 one quart. 7 2 4 12 1 13 3 and a half. 8 15 6 0 2 4 3 three quar. 11 0 7 5 2 12 4 13 7 8 15 3 6 4 one quart. 16 0 10 10 half. 4 0 4 and a half. 18 15 12 10 half. 4 12 4 three quar. 22 5 14 14 5 9 5 2 0 17 5 6 8 5 one quart. 30 2 20 1 7 8 5 and a half. 34 11 23 2 8 11 5 three quar. 39 9 26 6 0 14 6 45 0 39 0 11 4 6 one quart. 51 0 34 0 12 12 6 and a half. 57 0 38 0 14 4 6 three quar. 62 0 42 0 15 12 7 72 0 48 0 18 0 7 one quart. 79 8 53 0 20 0 7 and a half. 87 0 58 0 22 12 7 three quar. 96 0 64 0 24 0 8 106 8 71 0 26 10 You may, if you please, look into the former Table of Cube Roots, and compare this with that; for you shall find the Cube of each number bear the like proportion one towards another, as the weight of each Bullet is to another of the same metal. Example. The Cube of 3 ¾ is 52 73. The weight of a shot of three inches three quarters, is seven pounds five ounces. The Cube of 4 ¾ is 107 117. The weight of iron shot of that height, fourteen pounds fourteen ounces; which is four ounces more, then double seven pound five ounces; so likewise twice 52 73 is 105 146, which does not exceed 107 117 in being 10 doubled. The use of this Table is very easy; but to make it more plain by this Example, I would know all the aforesaid by three inches and three quarters Diana: I enter the Table under the Title inches, and parts of an inch, and right against it in the second column, you shall find a shot of lead of that height to contain eleven pounds: In the next you shall find a shot of iron to weigh seven pounds five ounces; and in the last under the title Stone, two pounds twelve ounces, the weight of a stone shot of that height. CHAP. 30. How to make a shot of lead and stone (the stone being put in the mould in which the leaden shot should oftenwards be cast) to be of the like Diameter and weight as an iron shot is of. I Have found by experience, That if you take five parts lead, and one part stone, it will come very near the matter, wanting not much above three ounces, which is nothing respecting the difference you shall find in Pebble-stones: Here I have framed a Table of how much lead, and how much stone must be together, to make the equal weight of iron shot, from one inch to eight every half inch. A Table to find how much Stone must be put in the mould for Leaden Bullets to make them weigh like Iron Bullets of the same Diana: Inches. Lead. Stone. both t'gether pound. ounc. pound. ounc. pound. ounc. 1 inch. 0 1 ⅔ 0 0 ⅓ 0 2 1 and a half. 0 6 ¼ 0 1 ¾ 0 8 2 inches. 3 14 0 4 1 2 2 and a half. 1 12 0 8 2 4 3 inches. 3 2 0 10 3 12 3 and a half. 5 0 1 0 5 0 4 inches. 7 7 1 8 8 15 4 and a half. 10 8 2 2 12 10 5 inches. 14 7 2 14 17 5 5 and a half. 19 4 3 12 23 0 6 inches. 25 0 5 0 30 0 6 and a half. 32 0 6 0 38 0 7 inches. 40 0 8 0 48 0 7 and a half. 48 0 10 0 58 0 8 inches. 59 0 12 0 71 0 CHAP. 31. How by knowing the weight of one Piece of Ordnance, to find the weight of any other Piece, being of that very shape, of the same metal, or of any other metal, by the Table of Cube Roots. IF the Piece be of the same metal that the Piece whose weight you know of, you must do this, first take the greatest thickness of your known Piece with your Callapers, and also of the Piece whose weight you know not; with their Diameters, enter the Table of Cube Roots; then observe, that as the Cube of the Diana: of the Piece (whose weight is known) is to the weight of the said Piece, so the Cube of the Diana: of the Piece (whose weight you seek) is to the weight sought for: But if the Piece be of another metal, first work as before, afterwards as the difference of the metal iron and brass is between themselves, so the weight found by the first rule is to the true weight sought for. Example. A brass Saker of 1900 weight, hath its greatest thickness eleven inches and a half, whose Cube is 1520.85 (as appeareth by the Table of Cube Roots) Now I find the Diana: of the other brass Piece, whose weight I know not, to be eight inches and three quarters; and by the Table I find the Cube to be 669.92, then as 1520.85, (the Cube of 11 ½) is to 669.92 (the Cube of 8 ¾) so 1900 (the weight of the known Piece) to 837 pounds almost; but if the Piece had been iron whose weight you sought, then having done as much as before, first supposing as if it were brass, find the difference of the metals in Chap. 28. and the difference between iron and brass, will appear to be as 16 to 18, brass being the heavier; then say, as 18 (the weight of brass) is to 16 (the weight of a Piece of iron of the same bigness) so 837 (the weight of a brass Piece) is to 744, the weight of an iron Piece of the like shape and magnitude. CHAP. 32. How by knowing what quantity of powder will load one Piece of Ordnance, to know how much will load any other Piece. THis Chapter or Proposition is resolved almost like the former, for first you must find the Cube Root of the diameter of the bore of that Piece, whose allowance of Powder for a charge you know: and also the Diameter of the bore of the Piece, which you would know how much should load, or charge it, then by the Table find their Cubes, and as the cube of that you do know, is to the cube of that you know not, so the quantity of powder known, is to that sought for. Example. A Saker of three inches three quarters diameter of the bore requires four pound what will a Demi-canon of six inches and an half require? the cube of three and three quarters is 52 and 73 hundred parts of an unite, and the cube of six and a half is 274, and 62 hundred parts: Then say evermore, as 52.73 (the cube of three and three quarters) is to 274, and 62 hundred parts, (the Cube of six inches and an half) so four pound of Powder to load a Saker, is in proportion to 20 pound 13 ounces the Powder to load a Demi-canon. You are likewise to understand that the Demi-canon should be fortified so well as the Saker: the cube of the diameter of the Demi-canon is 274, of the Saker 52, the weight of the Saker 1600, what should the weight of the Demi-canon be; then say as before, as 52 (the cube of the bore of the Saker) is to 274 (the cube of the Demi-canon bore) so 1600 (the weight of that Saker) is to 8431, the weight that such a Demi-canon should be of, that can bear such a proportionable charge, according to the Saker: But suppose the Demi-canon to be no more than 6000 weight, than you must multiply 6000 by 20 pound and 13 ounces (the charge already calculated) divide by 8431 the weight, and you shall find 14 pound 13 ounces, which is a sufficient charge for that Piece: thus you are always to take care of over-loading your Piece, which error divers run into, when they call a Piece a Demi-canon, they presently load her, with so much, as is allowed for such a Piece so named, seldom examining, whether the Piece have mettle enough, for such a charge; by which mistake, they stand in danger of their own lives, and others too, which are about them; which may easily be prevented, as is above declared. CHAP. 33. To find whether a Piece of Ordnance be true bored or no. YOu must provide a Pikestaff, about a foot longer than the bore of your Piece; and at the end thereof fasten a Rammer head, that will just fill all the bore under the touchhole, and at the other end of the staff you must boar a hole, big enough to put thorough a rod of iron, which must hang from the same; and at the other end of the rod, must be made a weight about the bigness of a Saker shot, this is done, to make the pike staff and rammer head, to lie with the same part upward, when they are taken out of the Piece, as they did, when the were within the Piece: than you must put your Instrument, thus prepared, into the Piece; letting the iron ball (that is at the end of the rod, which is put thorough the hole, bored across the pike staff) hang perpendicular; then take your priming Iron, or some other Bodkin, and put it down the touchhole, to the rammer head; making a mark therewith, this done, draw out your Instrument; and lay the same on a long table, with the Iron ball hanging off the end, perpendicular: as it did when this Instrument was in the Piece, then observe whether the mark you made upon the rammer head, when it was in the Piece, be just on the upermost part of the same, if it be; the bore at the Piece lieth neither to the right, nor left hand; if you find it a quarter of an inch on the right, or left hand; so much lieth the bore either to the right, or left; and the Piece in shooting must be ordered & charged accordingly. By this aforesaid, you may find whether the bore incline to the right or left: but to know whether it lie also upwards and downwards, and not in the middle, that way: To know this find the diameter of the Piece at the touchhole, as is before taught; then take a wire and bend it a little at the very end, that it may catch at the mettle, when you draw it out of the said touchhole: after this wire is thus prepared, first put it in at the touchhole, till it touch the bottom of the mettle in the Chamber, then holding it in that place, make a mark upon that wire, just even with the said touchhole, afterwards draw up the wire until it catch at the mettle on the top of the Chamber, and holding it there make a mark as before; the difference between the two marks is the just wideness of the Chamber, and the distance between the first mark, and the end of the wire (having half the diameter of the Chamber of the Piece substracted from it) will leave half of the diameter of the Piece, if the Piece be true bored, but if this number be more than half the diameter, than the bore lieth too far from the touchhole, and the upper part of the mettle is thickest; but if less, the under part hath most mettle. Example. First, I find the diameter of the Piece to be 12 inches at the touchhole, then with my wire I find the bore to be in diameter four inches: to the bottom of the mettle it is seven inches and an half; the half of the diameter or bore is two inches: which being added to the distance from the second mark on the wire, or substracted from seven inches and an half the first mark; leaves five inches and an half, which is less than half of the diameter you first took, by half an inch: therefore as I said before, the greatest part of the mettle is under the bore, and the Piece likest to break above, also when you make the dispart for that piece you are to make it half an inch shorter than before, the like observation you must have to make it longer, in case the mettle be thickest in the upper part. Thus I hope I have given reasonable satisfaction concerning this point, and I am sure on that manner as was never taught before: the truth is, there was never any way taught before that could perform this thing, the piece lying in its carriage; and how laborious it is to handle a great piece out of a carriage, let Gunners judge: I made two such Instruments as are taught by Master William Bourne, in his Book, called The Art of shooting in great Ordnance, Chap. 2. but neither I, nor I believe himself, could ever use them, when the piece is in its carriage. CHHP. 34. A description of all sorts of Ordnance from the Cannon, to the base: of their weight, loding, shot, and all other things apperteining to them. Of the Canon. A Cannon is eight inches diameter in the bore, she is also commonly 8000 weight, and about 12 foot long, the load of Cannon powder is two diameters of powder, which is 32 pound eight ounces: the shot seven inches and an half high, weigheth 58 pound: the length of the ladle 24 inches, and the breadth thereof 14 three quarters. Of the Demi-canon. Demicannons of the greatest size are six inches three quarters in diameter of the bore, the shot six inches and five eight parts of an inch in height, weighing 36 pound: the weight of the piece 6000 pound; and in length 12 foot: and requireth for its charge in Cannon powder 18 pound, being near the shilling two diameters of the pieces bore; the length of the ladle 23 inches, lack one quarter, and the breadth 12 inches. The ordinary Demi-canon, the height of the bore is six inches and an half; the height of the shot six inches and one sixth part, the weight of the shot 32 pound, the weight of the piece about 5600 pound; the piece is in length about ten or eleven foot; and her charge in powder is about 17 pound and 8 ounces: the length of the ladle is 22 inches, and the breadth thereof twelve: Another sort of Demi-canon, are in diameter of the bore six inches and a quarter; the height of the shot six inches, the weight 30 pound; the weight of the piece 5400, the length sometimes twelve, sometimes ten, the charge in powder, 14 pound: the ladles length 20 inches, the breadth eleven and an half. Culverings. Culverings of the largest size diameter of the bore five inches and an half, of the shot five inches and one quarter, the weight of the shot twenty pound, of the piece 4800: their length ten, twelve, or thirteen foot, their charge in powder twelve pound eight ounces; which is near two diameters and an half of powder, the length of the ladle near sixteen inches, the breadth ten. Ordinary whole Culverin, the height of the mouth of the piece five inches and one quarter; the height of the shot five inches, the weight seventeen pound five ounces; the weight of the piece 4500: the length of the piece twelve foot, the load in powder eleven pound six ounces, the length of the ladle fifteen inches, the breadth nine and an half; with such a piece as last named, I found at the leaguer before Worcester, that it carrieth 400 yards point blank, & 800 by the mettle. Culverings of the least size, the height of the bore five inches, the height of shot four inches, and three quarters; the weight almost fifteen pound; the weight of the piece 4000: the length twelve foot, the charge of it in powder ten pound, which is much about two diameter and an half, of the bore full: the length of the ladle fourteen inches, and one quarter, the breadth ninth. Demiculverings. The elder sort of Demiculverings, the height of their bore is four inches and three quarters, the height of the shot four and a half; the weight twelve pound and an eleven ounces, the weight of the piece 3000, the length sometimes ten, twelve, or thirteen, the charge forth this piece 8 pound and an half; the length of the ladle thirteen and an half, the breadth eight and a half. The ordinary Demiculvering, the bore four inches and an half, the shot four and one quarter, the weight ten pound and ten ounces and half; the usual weight of the piece 2700: the length ten foot, requireth for her charge in powder seven pound and one quarter; the length of the ladle twelve inches three quarters, the breadth eight inches. Demiculvering lower than ordinary, the height of the bore four inches and one quarter; the height of the shot four inches; the weight nine pound, the piece 2000 weight: the length nine or ten foot, their charge in powder six pound and a quarter: the length of the ladle twelve inches, the breadth eight. Sakers. Some Sakers of the oldest sort, cast in the reign of Henry the eighth, and Edward the sixth, are 4 inches in height at the mouth, the shot 3 inches 3 quarters, the weight of the iron shot 7 pound 5 ounces, the weight of the piece 1800, the lengrh either 9 or 10 foot, and requireth for her charge in Cannon powder 5 pound, it being found by experience to be sufficient, the length of the ladle 11 inches, and the breadth 7 and a quarter. Sakers ordinary, the diameter of their bore three inches three quarters, height of the shot 3 and an half, weight six pound, weight of the piece 1500, length 9 foot, charge of cannon powder 4 pound, length of the ladle 10 inches and an half, the breadth 6 and three quarters. Sakers lower than the former, the diameter of the bore 3 inches and an half, the height of the shot 3 and a quarter, the weight 4 pound 3 quarters, the weight of the piece 1400, the length 8 foot, and burneth in powder 3 pound 6 ounces, the length of the ladle 9 and 3 quarters, the breadth 6 inches and an half. Minions. Minions of the largest size, are three inches and a quarter Diameter in the mouth, the shot 3 inches, the weight 3 pound and three quarters, but it were better if the shot were 4 pound weight, than it would not have too much vent, as one of 3 and 3 quarters hath, the weight of the piece 1000, sometimes 800, the length 8 foot, comporteth in powder, if of 1000 weight, 3 pond and a quarter, if of 800, 2 pound and an half, length of the ladle 9 inches, the breadth 5. The ordinary Minion, the mouth 3 inches high, the shot should be 3 inches wanting half a quarter, the weight 3 pound and a quarter, the weight of the piece 750, the length 7 foot, the charge in powder 2 pound and an half, the length of the ladle 8 and a half, the breadth 5. Faucons. The height of the mouth of the piece 2 inches 3 quarters, the height of the shot 2 inches and 58 the weight, 2 pound and an half, the weight of the piece 750, the length 7 foot, it burneth in powder 2 pound and a quarter, the length of the ladle 8 and a quarter, the breadth of the plate 4 inches and an half. Fauconets. The mouth of the piece is 2 inches and a quarter high, the shot 2 inches and half a quarter high, the weight of the shot one pound 5 ounces, the weight of the piece 400, the length 6 foot, the charge one pound and a quarter, the ladles length 7 and an half, the breadth 4 inches. Rabanet. The Rabanet hath in diameter at the bore one inch and an half, the height of the shot one inch and 38 the weight 8 ounces of Iron, and of Lead 12, the weight of the piece 300, the length 5 foot and an half, the charge in powder three quarters, the length of the plate of the ladle 4 inches and a quarter, the breadth 2 and an half. Base. The diameter of the bore of this small piece is one inch and a quarter, the height of the shot one inch and half a quarter, the weight 5 ounces of iron and 8 of lead, the weight of the piece 200, the length 4 foot and a half, length of the ladle 4 inches, plates breadth 2 inches. In all this Chapter I have made the ladle but three diameters of the shot in length, and three fifth parts of the circumference: From the Cannon to the whole Culverin, I allow the charge of powder to be about two diameters of the piece: From the Culverin to the Minion, the charge to fill two diameters and an half: All from the Minion to the Base, three diameters full of powder. CHAP. 35. Of iron Ordnance, what quantity of powder to allow for their loding. FIrst, you must calculate a charge of powder for the said iron piece, as if it had been a brass piece, and in case you have not the weight of the said iron piece, you must find it as you are taught in Chap. 31 of this book, when you have found as I have taught in Chap. 32, how much powder would load the same if it were of brass, then just three quarters so much is sufficient to load an iron piece. Example. A brass Saker of 1500 weight, requires four pound, what will an iron Demiculvering of 2800 weight require, you shall find that such a Demiculvering of brass would have required 7 pound and an half as in Chap. 32. as thus, the Cube of the bore of a Saker, three inches and three quarters, is 52 73 of the bore of a Demiculvering four inches and a half is 91 12; then if 52 73 require four pound, what will 91 12 require (the cube of the Demiculvering) you shall find six pound 15 ounces, so much shall serve for a brass piece, if so well fortified as the Saker, the which we will likewise examine, as 52 73 (the cube of the Saker bore) is to 91 12, the cube of the Demiculvering bore) so 1500, the weight of the Saker, is to 2592, the weight that such a Demiculvering should be of, that burneth six pound 15 ounces of powder: to find what a Demiculvering of brass of 28 hundred will require say thus, if 2592 require six pound 15 ounces, what will 2800 ask? multiply, and divide, and you shall find 7 pound 8 ounces; of which number you must take three quarters for a charge for the said Iron Demiculvering, being 5 pound ten ounces a sufficient quantity to load such a piece withal. Also what ever you find in the 34 Chapter for Brass pieces, take three quarters thereof for the charge of your Iron piece, if it be near that weight. CHAP. 36. To know what quantity of powder should be allowed to a Piece not truly bored. SUppose the diameter of the mettle of the Piece at the touchhole be 16 inches, and the diameter of the bore five and a quarter, the weight of the Piece 4850; or as you may find by Chap. 31. such a piece you may find by the Rule of Proportion, in the 32 Chap. requires eleven pound for her due charge, being near two diameters of her bore in powder: by my Instrument spoken of before, I try whether she be true bored, and by the mark on the Tampion, at the end of the pike, I find the sole or bore to be one inch out of his place, or one inch from the middle of the mettle, than I conclude, that the thinnest part of the mettle, is inches 4 three eight parts: and the thickest side 6 three eight parts: by which it appears that one side is just two inches thicker than the other side, as you may see plainly by this figure, where the line divided being the diameter; every division signifieth one inch; the outward circle the out side of the mettle of the Piece; the inner circle signifieth the borer which you may see to lie just one inch from his true centre, of the out-most circle; how to calculate a charge for this Piece you shall presently understand; you must suppose as if this Piece were fortified no more, but only so much, as the thin most part of the mettle is: which here will appear to be 4 inches and three eight parts of an inch, and the half of the diameter you shall find by adding half, that of the diagram of barrel with off-center bore bore 2 five eight parts, to the aforesaid number, to be just seven inches from A: the centre of the bore in the figure to C the thinnest part of the mettle the whole diameter being 14: the second diameter being found is the true diameter, which you must proportion your charge by: the former being 16 inches, if the bore had been placed in the true centre: Then as the cube of 16, is to the cube of 14, so eleven pound of powder, (being the charge calculated before for a piece of 6 inches diameter) is to such a charge as shall suffice. Example. The Cube of 16 is 4096, of 14: 2744, then as 4096, is to 11, so 2744, is to 7 pound and almost 6 ounces, a sufficient charge for such a false bored piece. CHAP. 37. How to make Cartredges for Ordnance, and how to fill them by help of an inch Rule, to so many pounds and ounces as you please. TO make your Cartredges, take canvas, such as the powder will not creep thorough, and let it be in breadth (I mean that piece of cloth wherewith you will make one Cartredge) just three diameters of the Chamber of the Piece in breadth: and for the length you will find it by the filling of them, these being sewed together upon a mould; which must be a very little less than the diameter of the bore, and about 4 diameter long, upon this you may make paper Cartredges also: when they are made; yea are to fill them by the help of those two Tables following, the one showing how much powder will fill one diameter of the bore of the Piece, and the other how far in height of an inch Rule you must fill with powder, to make either one pound, two or three pound, as the title on the top will show you: you may use that of these two ways, as stands best with your convenience; and best befits your use: If you are to fill Cartredges for a Demi-canon, and you find that the Demi-canon is able to bear two diameters of powder in her load, by this Table over against 6 inches and an half Demi-canon diameter: you shall find eight pound, eleven ounces and an half; to fill one diameter of the said piece: the double of which is 17 pound and 7 ounces, a fit charge for the piece. If you fill a Cartredge for a Saker with five pound of powder; to know how full 5 pound will make it look in the second Table, and first against three and three quarters Saker bore, you shall find 3 pound will fill 6 inches and 3 quarters, in height of your Cartredge, and two pound more will fill 4 inches, and an half; which being added together, shows that your Cartredge is to be fitted just eleven inches, and one quarter for 5 pound. The Table of Diameter. The Table of Pounds. The first Table showing how much cannon powder will be contained in one diamet of the bore of any proved. The second Table showeth how far either one two or three pound of powder will fill in the bore of any Piece, the Diameter of the bore being given. Inch. parts Pound oū Inch. part 1 Pound. 2 Pound. 3 Pound. Inch. par. Inch part Inch. part 2 0 0 4 2 0 8 1 6 2 4 2 1.4 0 6 2 1.4 6 1.4 12 1.2 18 3.4 2 1.2 0 73.4 2 1.2 5 10 15 2 3.4 0 101.2 2 3.4 4 1.6 8 1.3 12 1.2 3 0 0 131.2 3 0 3 1.2 7 9 1.2 3 1.4 1 11.2 3 1.4 3 6 9 0 3 1.2 1 5 3.4 3 1.2 2 5.8 5 1.4 7 7.8 3 3.4 1 101.2 3 3.4 2 2.4 4 1.2 6 34. 4 0 2 ●1. 2 4 0 2 4 5 7.8 4 1.4 2 7 1.2 4 1.4 1 3.4 3 1.2 5 1.4 4 1.2 2 14 4 1.2 1 1.2 3 4 5.8 4 3 4 2 6 1.4. 4 3.4 1 3.8 2 3.4 4 1.8 5 0 3 15 1.2 5 0 1 1.4 2 1.2 3 3.4 5 1.4 4 9 1.2 5 1.2 5 43 4 5 12 1 1.16 2 1.8 2 3 16 5 3.4 6 03 4 6 0 6 13 3 4 6 0 0 14.16 1 3.4 2 3.8 6 1.4 7 12 6 1.2 8 11 1.2 6 1.2 0 12.16 1 1.2 2 1.4 6 3.4 9 12 3.4 7 0 10 14 1.2 7 0 0 10.16 1 1.4 1 15.16 7 1.4 12 2 Whereas Fractions usually are placed one figure over the other, with a line between them, in this Table they are placed one by the side of the other with a point between the Numerator and Denominator; as thus, 1.2 signifying one half, 5.8 five eight parts, etc. 7 1.2 13 6 1.2 7 3.4 14 12 1.2 8 0 16 4 1.2 To fill Carteredges for Minion, 3 pound; look in the second Table, and in the Collume of 3 pound; you shall have (right against 3 inches and one quarter Minion bore) 9 inches just, to be the height of the powder in the Cartredge, for the loading that Minion 3 pound. To fill for a Demiculvering, which requireth 2 Diameters and an half for his charge; look in the first Table, right against 4 inches and an half, you shall find 2 pound 14 ounces; to fill one Diameter of the said Gun: which being doubled maketh 5 pound and 12 ounces, and one half Diameter also added to that; maketh the Charge to be 7 pound 3 ounces. Now having fully showed how to make powder, to try the strength of powder, to know what shot and powder is meet for every Piece: to find whether the Piece be true bore or not, to load a piece with discretion if not true bored: to make the dispart: and also to know the difference between Iron and Brass pieces: I shall come to touch how to make a good shot, either at point blank, or at random; with as much ease and plainness, as ever was before taught by any whatsoever. CHAP. 38. How to give level with a piece of Ordnance, to make a shot at any mark assigned, within point blank. SEt your dispart on the Mussel ring, just over the centre of the mouth of the piece; which you may best do, by putting a stick across the bore, and dividing it into two equal parts, then with a plumb line hanging over the mouth of the Piece, being guided by the divided stick, you shall have a good aim, where to set your dispart; this being done, go to the Base ring, if the Piece be true bored, then find out which is the highest part, and middle of that ring, but if the Piece be not true bored, then find which part of the Base ring, is just over the Cylinder; and take that for your true line. When you have found out both the Dispart, and placed it, and also found what point in the Base ring is to answer it, then make some very small mark on the Base ring in that place, hold your head about two foot from the Base ring, and there you may best observe, as the Piece is travissing, when you are in a direct line with the Mark, this being done, give one of your Matrosses order, to raise, and fall the Piece with his Hand-spike, as you shall appoint him, until you can (holding your head about two foot from the Breech of the piece) with your eye perceive the mark at the Base ring, and the top of the Dispart in a direct line with the Mark you must shoot at: at that instant stop the motion of the Piece with a Coin, that it may remain as you have directed it: Then prime the Piece and give fire. Before you place on your Dispart, you are to observe whether the ground be level, on which the wheels of the Gun stand, if they are not one higher than the other: If the Trunnions are placed just over the Axtree of the Wheels or not: Whether one Trunnion lie higher on the Carriage than the other: Whether the Gun be truly placed in the carriage or not; I mean not swerving more to one side then the other: Whether the said Carriage be truly made or not: And lastly, whether the Axtree be placed just a cross the Carriage or not. How the Carriage of a Piece should be made. Measure the length of the Cylinder of the bore, and once and an half that length should be the length of the Carriage: Also measure the Diameter of the bore of the Piece, the Planks ought to be four of those Diameters in depth at the fore end, in the middle three and an half, and at the end next the ground two and an half, also they ought to be in thickness one Diameter: The wheels should be one half the length of the Piece in height, the Saker and Minion wheels must exceed the former by one twelfth part; the Falcon and Fauconet, by one sixth part. If you find that the ground is not level, on which your Piece stands, and that one wheel is higher than the other, and the Trunnions out of due place, the Piece not lying truly in the Carriage, and that also not truly made, you must get these things amended, or else never look for good service from such a Gun, being so ill planted. CHAP. 39 How if the first shot (by reason of some fault spoken of in the last Chapter) do carry to the right, or left, or over, or under the Mark, to amend it in the making the next shot. AFter you have made one shot, and find the Piece carry just over the Mark, then do all as hath been before taught again, and when as your Piece lies directly against the Mark, observe how much the last struck of the shot is above, the Mark, so much longer make your Dispart, that the top of it may be just seen from the Britch of the piece in a direct line with the struck of the shot, when it is of this length, then level your Piece with this new Dispart, to the assigned Mark: Give fire, and without doubt it will strike the same. If the first shot had struck under the Mark, then bring the Piece in all points as before to pass, mark how mueh of the Dispart is over the struck of the shot, and cut it just so short, as being at the britch you may discern the top of it, the mark on the Base ring, and the struck of the shot in a right line, when you perceive it is of such a length, level the piece to the assigned mark as at the first, then prime and give fire. If the first shot had struck on the right hand of the Mark, to mend it, you must level the Piece as formerly, you standing behind the britch of the Piece, observe the struck of the shot over the Dispart, that part of the Base ring as you at that instant look over in a right line towards the Dispart, and the struck of the shot, set up in that place a pin with a little soft wax on the Base ring, so this pin will be in a right line with the Dispart and struck of the shot: this being done, level your Piece to the Mark assigned, by this pin and the Dispart, and without question you will make a fair shot. For when you level by the mettle of the base ring where the pin is placed and the mark, the piece standing at that direction, look over the top of the Dispart, from the notch in the Base ring, and you shall find the piece to lie just so much to the left, as the former shot struck to the right from the assigned mark, which should in all likelihood now strike the mark. But if the shot be both wide and too low, than you must use both directions above taught, to make the next shot: First regulate the Dispart by cutting it shorter, according as the shots mark is lower than the assigned Mark; when this is done, then proceed to my directions to mend shooting wide. These things done with care and diligence, cannot choose but mend a bad shot. CHAP. 40. Of the Cunners' Quadrant, which is to be used in shooting at Randon, and what portion the Degree of a Quadrant is. YOU are to understand that every Circle great and small is divided into 60 Degrees, the cause of this division is, because the Sun maketh his motion in little more than 365 days, through the Zodiac or twelve Celestial Signs, which is a Year; now 360 is the next even number that can be divided into quarters and half quarters, fit for use, and the Sun dividing his Circle thus, does give example to all Mathematicians to divide all accordingly, a quarter of which Circle we call a Quadrant, containing 90 Degrees, you must have a ruler fastened to one side of such a quarter of a Circle or Quadrant, that must be put within the concave of the Piece, with a piece of lead at the end, to make the said rule lie close to the bottom of the mettle within, the Quadrant hanging without, by the plumb-line you shall find how many of those Degrees the Piece is elevated unto, and the Quadrant being thus placed, you may mount the Piece to what Degree you shall find fit to shoot by. I will not make any figure of a Quadrant, or give other directions for the making of it, because they which want one may buy it in divers places in London, but will proceed to teach the use thereof in Gunnery. Every one that will learn to shoot at Randon, must draw his Piece into a level ground, where first shooting level, he must observe that distance in feet or paces, then mount his Piece to one Degree, and mark where that shall graze: thus find the distance of every Degree, from the level to the 10th. Degree, and by these distances make a Table, to which annex the Degrees against the distances, by which Table you may (using the Art of proportion) find how far another Piece will convey her shot from Degree, to Degree: But in case you cannot have liberty, nor powder to do all the aforesaid, I will tell you what I have done myself, out of a Saker eight foot long, loaded with three pound of powder, at the first shoot being one degree mounture, it conveyed her shot 375 yards, or 225 paces: the next shot was at five Degrees Randon, at which mounture she conveyed 416 paces, and the next trial was at seven Degrees mounture, the Random produced 505 paces, the last trial was at ten Degrees, which conveyed 630 paces, five foot to a pace. Whilst I made these shots I loaded the Piece myself with lose powder exactly weighed, and weighed the wad, also I beat down the said wad with four strokes, so near as I could with the same strength I did the time before, also I let the Piece cool of itself, staying above half an hour betwixt each shot, I put no wad after the bullet because the Piece was mounted, I am sure if I had not taken all this care, I should not have profited by all these shots: When these were made, I tried the strength of the powder, the which I carefully noted down, also I kept some of it to compare again, when I should have other powder, these things I would advise every one to observe, that meaneth to be cunning in shooting at Randon. It is the duty of a Master Gunner of a Town or Fort, to draw an exact description of the said Garrison, and of every object as lieth near his Works within the reach of his Guns, by which means he shall not be troubled to take the distance, but be ready at all times to know the distance by his Map: then after he hath made one shot, he by the Rule of Proportion may be able to make another shot to any distance he pleaseth, example, suppose I find the distance by my Map where the first shot grazed, to be 704 paces; the mounture of the Piece being four degrees, how much must I mount the piece to convey her shot 900 paces, you must proportion these distances of Random to those in my Table; say, if 407 paces require 370 paces, (as the Table hath it at four Degrees of Randon) what number to be found in the Table, against that Degree which I must mount the Piece unto will 900 require. Multiply and divide, and you shall find 473 which number is not to be found in the Table, but the next less is 461, against six Degrees, and the next greater number is 505, against seven Degrees, the difference between these two numbers is 44, which show that the Piece must be mounted at six Degrees and one third part, for to reach the distance of 900 paces, because 461 is 12 less than 473, it being one third part almost of 44 the difference. Here I present unto your view the Table of Randons' which I made by my own observation, desiring every one if it be possible he can get powder, to make one by his own experience, and always remember to keep some of the same Gunpowder to try its proportion, as I have taught in the 16 Chap. with any other powder that afterwards he shall have occasion to use, for this is one of the excellentest properties that belong to a Gunner, and without this knowledge he shall never be able to make good shot, because at the time of a Leaguer he must often change his powder, at such a time I have had nine pound of one sort, as good as 15 of another sort, as both by shooting, and by my Instrument I have experimented. Degrees. Randons'. 1 225 2 274 3 323 4 370 5 416 6 461 7 505 8 548 9 589 10 630 CHAP. 41. How to make an effectual shot out of a Piece of Ordnance at Randon. EVery one that hath charge of a Gun, must at one time or other obtain leave of his superiors, to make two or three shots at least out of his said Piece, and measuring the distance from the Platform to the first graze of the shot, you must apply it to my Table, and by the Rule of Proportion, as in the last Chapter, find what Degree you shall need to mount the Gun for any other shot at another time when you shall have occasion. First, When you come to your Piece, set your Budge barrel on the wind hand thereof, and causing one of your Matrosses to hold the same aslope, thrust your Ladle into the same, filling it full of powder, and then strick it with a Ruler, (for by so doing, you may know just how many pounds and ounces you load your piece withal) then fixing your thumb just under the staff of the Ladle, thrust the same home to the Chamber of the Piece where the powder lieth, turning the Ladle so, as your thumb be directly above the staff, and in so doing, the powder will empty itself out of the Ladle cleanly, then drawing out your Ladle, with the Tampion at the other end of that staff, thrust home the powder, causing your assistant to hold his finger or thumb close on the touchhole, then taking a close round wad of hey, or untwisted rope, thrust in the same with your Rammer head that is on the Sponge staff, (for if you should do it with that on the Ladle, it would soon loosen the plate of the Ladle) and with it give three or four good strokes, when you have thus done put in the bullet without any wad, because the Piece must be elevated. If you charge your piece with Cartredges, which I count the best way; providing, (that although they hold the like quantity of powder) they be all of one thickness; otherwise you shall find much deceit in shooting: slit it a little in that place, which must be conveyed under the touchhole; then put it home with the end of the Rammer, and afterwards put home to it a good wad, then turn in the shot, the Piece being loaded, as I have taught you, take the distance to the mark, by such means as I teach in the 59 Chapter of this Book: and also observe, how many degrees the platform, is either higher, or lower, than your mark with your Quadrant: after you have done thus; and calculated what degree you must mount the Gun unto, to reach the mark, if the said mark be under the platform; subtract the profundity, out of the degrees of random, but if the said mark be higher than the platform, add the degree of that altitude, to the degrees of Random: and at these corrected degrees, mount your Piece: by putting the Ruler of the Quadrant into the mouth of your piece, marking diligently until the plumb-line, which proceedeth from the centre of your Quadrant, cut those degrees and parts of a degree (unto which you are to mount the Gun) in the Circumference; Make your shot, for without question, you may either strike or come very near the mark. Example. Suppose that when you make trial of your Gun, as is spoken of in the beginning of this Chapter, you find that at seven degrees of Random upon a level ground, the shot is conveyed 700 paces, you being called out upon service against a City, or other Fort, and being appointed to play your Gun towards it; you also finding it to beyond point-blank; the distance being 560 paces; also that the said place is lower than where you must plant your Gun, by one degree, and one sixth part, then to know the degrees of mounture, say, as 700 paces (being the range of seven degrees, out of your Gun formerly) is to 505 (the distance of Randon found in my Table of Ranges for seven degrees) so 560 (the distance to the mark) is to 404; this number is to be found in the Table or the nearest number unto it; and against that the degrees: the parts of the degrees must also be found, by subtracting the nearest less number, out of the nearest great number: thus looking in the Table the nearest less number is 370, the nearest greater 416: one subtracted from the other the difference will be 46: 404 differeth from 416 but 12 parts, which is a little above one quarter; so that your degree of Randon is four and three quarters; or five lack one quarter; because the mark is lower than the platform, subtract one degree and one sixth part or ten minutes out of four degrees, and three quarters, or 45 minutes; and the remain is three degrees and 35 minutes, the true height, to which your piece must be elevated, to reach the mark. If the shot graze either to the right or left, you are to mend it by the directions in Chap. 39, but if over, than you are to consider the distance, how much it is beyond; and the next shot abate so many minutes out of your mountures, as the distance beyond the mark does require; if short, you are to add to your mounture, as if the like number of paces that you shall find short, had been wanting to your distance, then proceed as before. Example. Suppose the shot graze over the mark 20 paces, subtract this 20 out of 560 the distance, and mount the next shot according as if the mark were but 540 paces distant. If 20 paces short, make the next shot at 580 paces, I mean at that degree that will reach so far. CHAP. 42. How to make another sort of Instrument, called the Gunner's Rule: which will serve to elevate a Piece of Ordnance, with more facility than the Gunner's Quadrant. BEcause the Quadrant aforementioned cannot be conveniently used at all times, for if the wind be high, you will have very much ado to make the plummet stand still, besides, it is a great trouble to take the profundity of a valley, and the altitude of a hill, when the mark is not level, also in field service you cannot use it, (but only in a Leaguer or out of a Garrison when it is beleaguered) the plumb-line is overlong before it stands still: to remedy all this, the Gunners Rule was invented, the figure whereof you may see in the following page. This rule must be some 10, 12, or 14, inches long, according as the Gun will require, it must have a long slit down the middle thereof, dividing it almost into two, but only held together by a little piece at the head and the foot, which must be circular according to your Gun, as you may see in the figure, where the Instrument is described, standing upon the britch of a piece of Ordnance: in the middle of the small and narrow slit you must place a lute string, and upon that a bead, which you may move up and down at pleasure, or if you cannot get a lute string, you may use a good third instead thereof; this bead must be set to such an inch, as you find is agreeable to such a degree, that you must mount your Gun unto, in this figure, the bead is at four inches and half a quarter: on one side the slit must be placed a division of Inches and quarters or tenths of Inches, on the other side must be placed the Degrees and Minutes, when you shall find by the length of your Gun, how many Inches and parts goes to make one Degree. If you make this Ruler for See here the Gunner's Ruler standing on the britch of a Piece. one only Gun, than you may place on the Degrees, but if for divers Ordnances, than you must not figure the same, for the degrees once placed on, can serve but for one Gun. CHAP. 43. How to divide the Gunners Rule into Degrees, by help of a Table. IF you make your Ruler for one Gun only, I will here teach you to divide the opposite side (to that divided into Inches and tenth parts of Inches, that is every Inch divided into ten equal parts) into Degrees by the Table following, which Table is divided into 10 Columes for the ten degrees, and right before this division is the length of the Gun set down, which you must enter the Table withal, and just against it you shall have in how many Inches and parts of an Inch do make one degree, two degrees, three degrees, and so to ten degrees. A TABLE by which you may place the Degrees on the Gunner's Rule, fitting it for any Piece from five foot long to fourteen foot long, and by help of which any Piece may be leveled to any degree without the help of a Quadrant, Ruler, or any other Geometrical Instrument whatsoever. The length of the Piece. 1 deg. 2 deg. 3 deg. 4 deg. 5 deg. 6 deg. 7 deg. 8 deg. 9 deg. 10 deg. 5 Foot long. 1 3 3 6 3 8 4 11 5 14 6 16 7 19 8 22 9 25 10 28 5 Foot and an half. 1 14 2 28 3 42 4 56 5 70 6 84 7 98 9 12 10 26 11 40 6 Foot long. 1 22 2 44 3 66 4 88 6 10 7 38 8 58 9 78 11 8 12 29 6 Foot and an half. 1 36 2 72 4 8 5 44 6 80 8 17 9 53 10 89 12 25 13 63 7 Foot long. 1 47 2 94 4 41 5 88 7 35 8 82 10 30 11 77 13 24 14 73 7 Foot and an half. 1 58 3 14 4 71 6 28 7 85 9 42 10 99 12 57 14 14 15 71 8 Foot long. 1 68 3 36 5 4 6 72 8 40 10 8 11 76 13 44 15 12 16 82 8 Foot and an half. 1 79 3 58 5 37 7 16 8 95 10 74 12 53 34 32 16 12 17 92 9 Foot long. 1.89 13 79 5 68 7 58 9 47 11 37 13 27 15 18 17 8 18 98 9 Foot and an half. 2 0 4 0 6 0 6 0 10 0 12 10 14 2 16 3 18 4 20 4 10 Foot long. 2 10 4 20 6 30 8 40 10 30 12 61 14 73 16 84 18 96 21 8 10 Foot and an half. 2 21 4 41 6 69 8 88 11 81 13 28 15 48 17 68 19 89 22 10 11 Foot long. 2 31 4 62 6 93 9 24 11 56 13 88 16 20 18 51 20 82 23 14 11 Foot and an half. 2 42 4 84 7 26 9 68 12 10 14 53 16 95 19 37 21 80 24 21 12 Foot long. 2 53 5 6 7 59 10 12 12 65 15 18 17 71 20 25 22 78 25 33 12 Foot and an half. 2 63 5 20 7 89 10 52 13 15 15 78 18 41 21 4 23 67 26 33 13 Foot long. 2 74 5 48 8 22 10 96 13 70 16 44 19 48 21 92 24 68 27 40 13 Foot and an half. 2 84 5 68 8 52 11 36 14 20 27 4 19 88 22 72 25 56 28 42 14 Foot long. 2 95 5 90 8 85 11 80 14 75 17 70 20 65 23 60 26 56 29 53 Place this Table in folio 20, little b. If your Gun be 12 foot long, two inches, and 53 hundred parts of an inch doth make one degree, five inches, and six parts, (if the inch were divided into 100) maketh two degrees, etc. For I told you before, that you must divide your inch into ten parts, and for more exactness, suppose every one of those 10 parts to be divided into ten more, which maketh 100, all those parts set down in the Table, are such parts. CHAP. 44. How to give level to a piece of Ordnance, with the Gunner's Rule, at any degree of Randon. THe piece being loaded in all points, as is before taught, and you also having brought the piece in a right line with the mark, the Dispart being placed upon the mussle ring, place your Ruler upon the base ring, and having before all this, taken the distance to the mark, and found it to be 461 yards: the first shot you made out of that piece for practice conveyed her shot 274 yards, at two degrees mounture, according to the rules before taught, 461 yards will require six degrees mounture, then to find by this Table how many inches, and hundreth parts of an inch, six degrees will require, look in the last Table, finding on the left hand, in the first column the length of the piece 12 foot just, under six degrees in the common angle you shall find 15 inches, and 18.100 parts of an inch; which known, I set the bead that is on the string in the slit to 15 inches, and 13 parts, if the inch be divided into 100, and cause the piece to be moved either higher or lower, until you see the bead, the top of the dispart, and the mark, all in one line, stop the piece at that position with a coin, prime and give fire. If you would shoot by the mettle of the piece without a dispart, subtract the length of the said dispart, out of the inches found in the Table, and the remainder mount your piece unto: if the dispart had been three inches long, that taken out of the inches found in the Table being 15. 18.100. will leave 12. 18.100. to which height in the Rule without a dispart, you must mount the piece. CHAP. 45. How to make use of the last Table, to give level to a Piece of Ordnance without the Gunners Rule. IF you have not a Ruler nor Quadrant, and would make a shot just at five degrees elevation, look in the Table, and find the length of the piece, which admit to be nine foot and an half, right against this, in the angle under five degrees, you shall have ten inches, to be the length of any straight stick, which you may set upon the base ring, and level over the top of the said stick, as if it had been the bead in the Ruler, thus you may perform as much as with the Ruler, if you will have no dispart upon the piece, take it off, and lay it with the aforesaid stick, from which cut off its just length, the remainder you may use upon the base ring, for when you have the top of it, the mettle of the mussle ring, and the mark in a right line, you cannot fail of making a good shot. If the dispart in this piece were two inches and an half, this cut from the length often inches, the number found in the Table, there will be left seven inches and an half, for the length of the stick, to be set on the base ring, to level the piece without a dispart. CHAP. 46. How to make a shot at the enemy's lights in the dark night. WHen you shall have occasion to shoot at a light seen in the night time, dispart your piece with a lighted and unflaming wax candle, or with a lighted piece of match, that you may see by the light of the fire in the said Gunmatch, to lay the middle and upmost part of the mettle, at the tail of the piece; the top of the match, and the mark in one line, when this is done, give fire. CHAP. 47. How to make a perfect shot in a dark night, at any mark that may be seen in the day time, within the reach of the Piece. IN the day time mount your piece (as you are before directed) to reach the appointed mark, and at that time place the mouth or concavity of the piece right upon the said mark, than put the ruler that is fixed to the Quadrant into the mouth of the piece, note what degree is touched in the Quadrant by the plumb-line, and set it down in writing, or else keep it in memory, after that, let fall a line and plummet down to the ground, from the middle part of the mouth of the piece, in the place where the plummet, toucheth the platform make a mark, then carry your line and plummet to the breech of the piece, and let it hang to the ground, from the middle part of the breech, there also where it toucheth the ground or platform likewise make another mark: between each, of these marks draw a line, and continue that line above two yards beyond each mark, this shall be called the line of direction. Now when you will shoot in a dark night with that piece at the same mark; charge the piece with the same quantity of powder; as you did when you found by experience that such a degree with you now must mount by, did hit the mark, and also with the like weight of shot, then bring your gun upon the line of direction, so that the middle of the mouth of your piece, and middle of the breech may be just over it, which you may bring to pass by help of the plummet, when this is done, elevate the piece so much by the Quadrant, as you did in the day time, and without question she will reach the mark as before. CHAH. 48. How to make a perfect shot at a company of horsemen, or footmen, passing by the place where Ordnance do lie upon a level ground, and also to make a good shot at a ship sailing up a River. WHen any horsemen or footmen shall pass by a place where a great piece of Artillery doth lie, the Gunner must charge the piece beforehand, with good powder, and fit shot, to this end that the piece may go off so soon as fire is put to the same: also the Gunner in this case must lay his Gun truly disparted upon a level ground, right against some mark in their way, as against some tree, bush, or hillock, and best of all if it be upon some turning way, because in such a place they cannot departed very quickly, and when the said horsemen or footmen, shall come near unto that mark, or be in the turning way, the Gunner must discharge his said piece at them: Likewise when a Gunner will shoot at a ship sailing in a river, he ought to plant his piece towards a cloud or some evident mark on the other side the river, and give fire to his piece when the fore part of the Ship shall begin to be between the mouth of the piece and the mark. CHAP. 49. How to cause that the same quantity both of powder and shot, discharged out of the same Piece, shall carry close or more scattering. MAster John Bate in his Book of Extravagants, saith, Take the quantity of a pease of Opium, and charge it amongst the case shot, and it will make the said case shot fly closer together, then otherwise it would, this Master Bate saith, he learned of a Sea man, who had made trial hereof, as he says, and unto whom Master Bate sold some for that purpose; it is very probable, for Opium is of a congealing and fixative nature. CHAP. 50. How a shot which sticketh fast within the concavity of a Piece, that it cannot be driven home unto the powder, may be shot out without danger to the Gunner, or hurt to the Piece. WHen a piece of Artillery is charged with such a Shot, as will not be driven home unto the powder, than the Gunner to save this piece from breaking, must so embase the mouth thereof, that fair water for two or three days, being put in at the touch hole, at several times may run out into a vessel set under the mouth of the Gun, to save all the Salt Peter that was in the powder, when these things are done, the Gunner must prime the piece and put so much in at the touchhole, as will serve to drive out the shot. But when a rusty shot hath for a long time stuck fast within the piece, put strong Vinegar in the mouth of the piece, and with the rammer strike the shot till it do move, then pour the Vinegar out again, if it have soaked through the powder, then prime with a little fresh powder, and give fire, if the Vinegar could not pass by the shot amongst the powder, then moisten the said powder with some water or Vinegar, when it is yet dank and moist, prime the touchhole with good powder, and give fire. CHAP. 51. A merry conceit, how to charge a Peeece of Ordnance without Gunpowder. This may be done with air and water only, having put cold water into the concavity of the piece, filling one quarter of the Cylinder, put in after it a Tampion of wood as long as broad, perfectly made to fit the piece, with an oiled cloth about it, doubled either more or less, that it might be two men's strength to put it home, this done, put in the shot, elevate the piece a little, and make a fire under the hinder part thereof, the touchhole being very close stopped, then put the sponge of the piece in oil, and wet all the Cylinder of the piece with oil, that it may pass out the glibber: for when the fire hath rarified the water, it will burst out suddenly. The experiment which we have in long Trunks shooting out pellats with air only, proveth this also. CHAP. 52. A Piece of Ordnance at oneself same elevation, and towards oneself same place, with the like quantity of powder and shot, discharged several times, what ranges it will make. I Have discharged a piece seven times in the space of 50 minutes, with the like weight of powder, shot, and elevation, and have found their ranges as following, the first shot was conveyed 416 paces, the second 436, the third 440, the fourth 432, the fifth 425, the sixth 410, the seventh 394, so that the greatest difference from the first shot, was 24 paces, these things must be kept in perfect memory, by every one that learneth to shoot at random, or he shall be never good at that practice. The reason of these things is this, at the first shot the bullet found the air quiet, and at the second shoot, it did not only find the air stirred with the first shoot, but also moving or tending towards the place at which it shot, and because it is more easy to move and penetrate that which is already moved and open, then that which is close and quiet, it followeth that the second shot finding in his range a less resistance than the first did, will outfly the first. A second reason is at the first shot the powder being put in the piece, doth often times find the same somewhat moist, especially when it hath not been shot in for certain days before, through which the powder will not fire quickly, as it doth when the piece is dry and temperately warm, for this warmth or heat will somewhat dry up the moisture which is in the powder, and cause it to fire sooner; wherefore the powder doth not work so forcibly in the first shoot as it doth in the second, the third shoot and fourth will be much like the second, now I will give you the reason, why as the piece grows hotter, one shot will not out-shoot the last, before it, but every time come shorter and shorter. The piece waxing hotter, and by how much the more hotter, by so much the more attractive is the concavity of the piece made, and because the shot is driven forth, or expelled with no other thing then by the airy exhalation, or wind caused through the Salt peeter, therefore by making such a piece the more attractive with the more heat, which suppeth and retaineth continually more and more of that wind, which should serve to expel the bullet, the virtue expulsive in that piece, doth continually more and more decrease, and the shot flieth not with that swiftness as it did before; although the two first things, that is, the breaking of the air, and the drying of the powder every time more and more, doth help much the range of the shot, which aid and help, as it is to be believed, that sometimes it supplieth and perchance gives advantage by that expulsive virtue, which continually the piece doth diminish, or sup in according as it heateth, so that the third and fourth shoots will not be much differing from the second shoot, nevertheless in continuance of time, the said two accidents (that is the opening of the air and drying the powder by the heat of the piece) cannot supply the third accident, that is, the virtue attractive, by reason the attraction is augmented as the piece heateth. This caused my sixth and seventh shoots to convey the bullet 22 paces shorter than my first It is reported by Nicholas Tartaglia, that many shoots being made at a battery by a piece, it chanced by some occasion, that the piece risen up in such sort that the mouth touched the ground, a little dog passing by, did smell unto the pieces mouth, and by so doing was fast joined to the pieces mouth, and immediately after drawn into the said piece: which thing, when the standers by had seen, some of them ran to help the said dog, and although they found him to be drawn almost to the further end of the concavity, they pulled him out almost dead: This was done by the virtue attractive. CHAP. 53. How many Horses, Oxen or Men will serve to draw any Piece of Artillery. FOr every hundred weight of mettle, one man: so a Piece of 8000 pound weight, requires 80 men: besides so many more men as the Carriage may weigh several hundreds: for every 500 of mettle use one horse, than 16 horses will draw a Gun of 8000 weight, but in the Winter 24, also 17 yoke of Oxen, is thought sufficient to draw a Piece of 8000 weight, but in the Winter they need to be one third part more. CHHP. 54. A description of the Instrument, wherewith the Reader must learn to take heights, depths, and distances. THis Instrument is four square, with a Circle in the middle, divided into 360 degrees: the divisions on the squares, proceed from one; to ten; or from 10, to 100, the figure you may see before you; you may call this Instrument a Circumferenter, or Geometrical Square. Sometimes you must use an Index, and at other times a Line, and Plummet, according as I shall (in the ensuing Treatise) give directions. diagram of instrument described in chapter 54 Versed Shad Right Shad versed Shadow Right Shadow the line fidutiall Versed Shad Right Shad Versed Shad Right Shad Place the Instrument between 36 and 37, little c. CHAP. 55. The use of this Instrument, to find the height of a Tower or Castle which is accessible. FIrst, holding one side of your Square Parallel to the Horizon, move the Index upward, till thorough the sights thereof, you perceive the top of the Tower, or Castle; then look what part is cut by the Index, upon the Square, if it be of Right Shadow, multiply the distance to the base or foot of the Tower by 100, and divide by the parts cut, adding thereunto the height of your eye from the ground, but if of contrary or versed shadow, multiply the distance from the middle of your foot by the parts cut, and divide by 100, not forgetting as well as before, to add the height of your eye from the ground. If you find it more covenienter to use ●he plumb line then the Index, do thus, fix the line upon the pin on which the Index did move, and make your observation through the sights on the side of your Instrument, marked with the letters A B, to the object you desire to know the aforesaid by, and the plummet line will cut the same division as the Index did formerly. Suppose the Index or plumb-line cut the 35th. division of the Scale of versed shadow, in making my observation towards the Castle or Tower, and the distance thereunto be 135 yards, what will the height amount unto: because it is of Contrary or versed shadow, then as you are taught before, multiply the distance from the middle of your legs to the base 135, by the parts cut 15, divide by 100, and the height will be found to amount to 75 yards and one quarter, above your eye, whose height as it shall be found must be added to the aforesaid number. CHAP. 56. How to find the height of any Tower that is inaccessible. IF you would take the Altitude of any Tower, Wall, Hill, or other Edifice which is unapproachable, either in regard of the enemy lying between, or of some Ditch, River, or other impediment, you shall proceed as followeth: first approach to the nearest and most convenient place for your purpose, where with your Instrument make observation; and note down, or remember what parts are cut in the Scale, you must then go back in a straight line, according to the commodiousness of the place, and make a second observation, noting as before, the parts cut in the Square, which will be either on the Right of Versed Shadow, if they fall both on the Versed Shadow, (which most often doth happen) you shall divide the side of the Square severally by the parts cut; and subtract the lesser Quotient from the greater, and by the remainder, divide the distance between the two stations, to that add the height of your eye from the Horizon, you have your desire. Example. Suppose the parts cut at the first station be 45 (Versed Shadow) and at the second 30, (both Versed Shadow) I divide the whole side of the Square, which is 100, by these two Sums severally, and find the one to be contained 2 10/45 or in decimal parts thus, 2 222) the latter number is contained 3 ⅓ or 3 333, by the difference I divide the distance of the stations, subtract 2 222 out of 3 333, the difference will be 1 111, the Distance 24 yards, being thereby divided, the product will be 21 15, the height of mine eye 5 foot, these added will give the height, 22 yards, 2 foot, and 2 inches almost, of the said object. CHAH. 57 How to perform the same operation when the parts cut fall on the Right Shadow. WHen the parts cut in each station be of Right Shadow (which is very seldom) subtract the lesser number of those from the greater, and put that in the first place: in The Golden Rule, or Rule of Three, the side of the Square in the second place, and the stationary distance in the third. Example. Let the parts cut in the first station be 30, in the second 40, of right shadow, subtract the lesser from the greater, the remainder is 10, the which shall be put in the first place of the golden Rule, the side of the Square being 100, in the second, and the distance between the two stations seven, in the third place, so the Rule standeth thus: As the difference of parts cut, is to the whole side, so is the difference of stations, to the height required, Or, as 10 to 100, so 7 to 70 the height. CHAP. 58. How to take an Altitude at a place unapproachable, when the parts cut are of different Shadows. IF the parts cut in the nearest station be of Right Shadow, and the furthest be of Contrary Shadow, they shall be both reduced to one Shadow, after this manner, square the whole side which is 100, and divide the product by the parts cut of the versed Shadow, and the Quotient will give the right Shadow: that being done, subtract the lesser shadow from the greater, and the remainder will be the first place in the Rule of Three, the distance between the two stations shall be the second, and the side of the Square the third. Example. Let the parts of Right and Versed Shadow be both 30, I desire to bring them to be both Right: First, I square the whole side which here is 100, it maketh 10000, that Product I divide by the parts cut of Versed Shadow, which is 30, the Quotient is 333, and one third part; from whence subtract 30 the right shadow, out of 333 and one third, the remainder is 303 and one third, for my first Term, the distance between my two stations 13, for the second, and the side of the Square 100 for the third, The Rule standeth thus, As 303 and one third, is to 13, so 100 is to 4 yards and 18 Inches. To take the height of a Tower or Castle standing on a hill. To perform this, you must first take the height of the hill at two stations, as of a thing unaccessible, and after the same manner, take the height of the Hill and Tower together, which being done, subtract the height of the said Hill from the whole, the remainder will be the height of the Tower. CHAP. 59 How to find the Longitude or Distance to any place by the Square. I Desire to know the Distance to a Tower in the wall of a City, because of placing my Ordnance to dismount a Gun upon the same, I make choice of a convenient place for my station, where placing mine Instrument, I bring the Index to the point C, to lie just upon the line D C; written in the figure, The Line Fiducial, because from this line proceeds the beginning of the Degrees in the Circle, and it is most used, the Index being on this Line, move the Instrument till you perceive through the Sights the Tower: letting the Instrument rest firm, turn the Index directly upon the other line marked with E G: look through the Sights, and if you can espy any place or thing, that you can remember to find exactly, take that for your second station, if you cannot espy wherewithal to remember, cause one to go towards such a place, that you can see through the Sights, with a handkirchief in his hand, when you espy that, bid him drop it upon the ground, and go to that place, where set up your Instrument, and laying the ruler upon The Fiducial Line, turn the Instrument until you can espy through the Sights your first station, then letting the Instrument stand firm, turn the Index until you can likewise espy the Tower through the Sights, and mark diligently what part it cuts in the Square, then: As the parts cut are to 100 (the Radix) so the distance between the two stations, is as the Distance required. Example. Suppose the parts cut were 5, the distance between the two stations 30 paces, then as 5 is to 100, so is 30 to 600 paces, the true distance to the Tower. CHAP. 60. How to take the distance of divers places at one time, by help of the Circle that is described within the Instrument. FIrst of all, find some convenient place in which set up your Instrument for your first station, and laying the Index upon the fiducial line, turn the Instrument with the Index upon the aforesaid line, until you see such a place as you think most convenient, (for in this you may choose your second station, which by the practice in the last Chapter you could not do,) The Instrument thus fixed, espy through the holes, every one of those places whose distance you would know, and write them down, I mean the degrees cut in the Circle, with the name of the place, always remembering to begin so far on the left hand, as you have any mark that way; when you have noted them all down according as I have taught, go to the second station, and place your Instrument there, lay the Index upon the fiducial line, and look back to the first station, and espy it through the holes, after this, be sure your Instrument be not stirred, then turn the Index to the first mark you took at the first station, and after observation made, note it down, as at the first time, when you have observed all the marks: take your Instrument away, go to a large Table, and with your Ruler draw a straight line, across the Table, parallel to the Tables end, and about two foot one from another, describe two Circles, the former made line being a diameter to each Circle. First, divide the distance between the centres of the two Circles into so many equal parts, as there were paces between your two stations, then divide the Circles. In each centre fix a needle, and tie to each needle so many silk thrids as you had marks, extend each of these at a great length, just cutting the degree in the Circle, that was cut in the Circle of the Instrument, when you made your Instrumental observation, beginning first with the first mark, so proceed, and the end of every third which must be very long, fasten to the Table with a little soft wax, when you have fastened all the thirds thus, that are on the first needle, which signifieth the first station, place those on the second needle as you did the other, with wax at their full extent, just over the Degree in the Circle, made on the Table, as you have noted was made upon your Instrument by observation, beginning with the first as you did before, and so likewise fasten them. Now to know the distance to these marks, look where the first string of one Circle crosseth the first of the other, that place note for the first mark; look where the second crosseth with the second, that note for the second mark; so likewise, for the third, fourth, etc. till you have noted all the marks down, then with a pair of Compasses measure the distance unto any mark in paces or yards, according as the Scale between the Circles is divided, and what distance you find to be, either between one mark and another, or between the stations and the marks, is the true distance between those marks, or between either of your stations and marks, in paces, yards, or feet, according to the division of your Scale, but if the first, second or third third, etc. in one Circle, do not tend to the same marks that you have noted in the observation, as the first, second, and third doth in the other Circle, than you are to make the mark where two thrids cross that do tend to the same marks. An Example to clear and manifest the last Proposition. At such time as the Leaguer was before the City of Worcester, I took the distance by such means as I have afore taught, to every remarkable place therein, by the aforesaid Instrument. First, finding a convenient place for the first station, and placing the Index upon the Fiducial line, I marked where to make a second station: the Instrument standing : The first and farthest mark towards the left, as I observed was Saint Peter's Steeple, the Index cutting 75 degrees, the next observation was made at the College Steeple, the Index cut 84 degrees, than Saint Helen's, the parts cut in that observation 102, my fourth mark was the lofty Spire of Saint Andrews, 104 degrees, the fifth mark was the new built Block-house, where formerly stood the Friar's gate, the degrees cut were 106, the sixth observation was made towards the high Tower Steeple of All Saints, the Index cut 107 degrees in the Circle, the seventh object was the eighth square Tower Steeple of Saint Suthwins, 117, the eighth which was worth observation was the brick Steeple of Saint Nicholas, where the Index cut just 120 degrees, the ninth observation which I made was towards Saint Martin's freestone Steeple, where 122 degrees were cut, the tenth was made towards the Foregate, called of some the North gate, because of its situation North, here the degrees were 124, than I placed my Index upon or towards a rotten Tower in the walls of the City, ignorantly called the old Gaol, upon which a gun was then placed, the degrees cut in this observation were 126, my twelfth and last observation was towards the liberty post standing amongst the desolate ruins of Foregate street, where the Index cut in the Circle 128 degrees. Having noted down all the aforesaid, I went to the second station, placed my instrument right for observation (by looking through the sights of the Index, it lying upon the fiducial line to the first station) I began as before to make my observations, first of all at those places which lay farthest on the left hand, and so proceeded orderly to the right. Saint Peter's cut 40 degrees, the College steeple 48, the Block-house 55, Saint Helen's 61, Saint Andrews 67, All Saints 72, Saint Suthwins 75, Saint Martin's 78, Saint Nicholas 80, the old Gaol, 81, Foregate 86, and the liberty post 95 degrees. The distance between the two stations is 360 paces: upon a Table board I made two Circles, and divided them into 360 parts, or degrees, or only the upper halves into 180 degrees, I placed two needles in each centre one, and upon each 12 thirds, first I extended the thrids in the Circles in the left hand, which signifieth the first station, just over such degrees which were cut at time of observation, proceeding orderly, the first third for Saint Peter, the second for the College, the third for Saint Helen's, &c. When you have placed all the thirds which are on the first Needle, do the like with the thirds upon the second Needle, beginning first towards the left hand with Saint Peter, next the College, the third the Block-house, the fourth Saint Helen's, the fifth Saint Andrews, etc. all the thrids being placed, look where the third of the same mark in both Instruments cross one another, just there make a prick for the mark: as for Example, the third of the Block-house is the fifth in th' first Circle, and the third in the second, where these two cross is the blockhouse, measure with the compasses according to the Scale, between the centre of each Circle, and you shall find the said Block-house to be distant from the firsr station 400 paces, from the second 476 paces, from Saint Peter's 197 paces, from Saint Andrews 203, from the Foregate 304, and from the liberty Post about 400. The distance between All Saint's Steeple and the first Station is 680 paces, between it and Saint Andrews it is 35, from Saint Peter's 273, and from the Foregate 202. Saint Andrews is distant from the first station 610, from Saint Martin's 192, from Saint Swithins 142, and from the College 212: Thus you by the Scale and Compasses may find the distance to and between any of them. CHAP. 61. How by the aforesaid Instrument, to draw the Plot of a City or other Garrison, and to take the distance to every remarkable Object within Cannon shot. IT behoveth every Master Gunner, of a Town, Castle, or other Fort, to draw a description of his said Garrison, and of every notable object within Cannon shot, for he having a Map of all these things, need not be troubled to take the distance every time he hath occasion to shoot at the enemy, for by his Map and the objects without the Garrison therein described, he may be able to estimate how far or near the enemy doth reside. To make a description of the Garrison, he is to do thus, set up his Instrument first upon the shoulder of the Bulwark, and observe the angle thereof, by placing his Index first upon the Fiducial line, and moving the Square until you may perceive the Flanker, then letting the Instrument remain fixed, turn the Index till you can see the Diamond point through the holes, the Degree cut is the angle of that shoulder, with a chain or line, measure the distance to the point of the Bulwark, and measure that Angle as you did the former, by espying through the Sights (the Ruler or Index lying upon the Fiducial line) the place where you stood last on the shoulder, from the Diamond point measure the distance to the second station, and observe the angle of that as before is taught; first, by looking back through the sights, the Index lying upon the Fiducial line to the Diamond point, then turning the Index, look to the angle at the flank, note as before the degrees of the Angle: Then departing from that place, measure to the angle of the Flank, there also set up your Instrument, first looking through the sights at the place you were last at, turn the Index and look strait along the Curtain, to the angle where it joineth with the Flank, then go to that angle, measuring the Curtain as you go, coming thither, set up the Instrument as before, first looking through the holes in the Index at the place you were last at, the other observation make at the first shoulder of this second Bulwark, and so proceed from Bulwark to Bulwark until you come round the Garrison, noting all those observations down with the distance between them, you may be able to make your Map. I have but a short time to write, otherwise I would have given you the figure of the Cities of Worcester and Coventry, and examples how they were drawn, but hoping the ingenious practizer will by what I have already said, be able to do these things, this direction shall suffice. To know the distance to any places without the Garrison, you must take them as I have taught in the two last Chapters, and then annex them to your Map. inscrutable diagram 50 100 150 200 250 Scale of 250 Fathom A TREATISE OF Artificial FIREWORKS for War and Recreation. Containing a description to make sundry kinds of FIREWORKS both for use and pleasure, with less labour and cost then any hath heretofore been published. All of them being experimented and practised by the Author: as also compared to the best, which are taught by any other Author whatsoever. By Nathanael Nye. London, Printed for William Leak, at the sign of the Crown in Fleetstreet, 1647. A TREATISE OF Artificial FIREWORKS for the Wars. CHAP. 1. A description of the Morter-peece, and how to make one of Wood and Pasteboard for a need, those of Brass and Iron being wanting. THe best Mortar-pieces are made of the same mettle that brass Ordnance are made of, and being to be made, let the measures following be observed. If the Diameter or bore be nine inches, let the mortar be one foot and an half in length, and let the chamber in which you load your piece with powder be three inches diameter, and four inches and a half deep, the thickness of the mettle about the touchhole three inches, and the upper part thereof one inch and a quarter. How to make the Morter-peece of Wood and Pasteboard. You must get a wooden rouler of such bigness as you desire to make the diameter of the Mortar, and upon that rouler let pastbords and canvas, with good store of molten glue, be rolled (remembering to anoint the rouler with grease, or otherwise the glue will cause that you cannot take the pastbords off again) which done, let the canvas and pastbords dry a little while on the rouler, another while off from the rouler, and when this kind of trunk is very dry, put it on the rowler, and set it in a lathe, and cut off both ends of the trunk with a Chisell very even, taking this out of the lathe, turn a foot thereunto, with a shoulder to put the trunk upon, and in the middle thereof make the chamber for the powder, if the piece be eight inches in the mouth, let the thickness of the pasteboard trunk be two inches thick, and 18 inches long, the britch or foot be 10, the shoulder two inches long and two inches high, that when the trunk is put on this shoulder, and joined with the wood, it may be just even with the same, the bore into which you put your powder must be two inches high and three deep, plated with copper or latin, if it be possible, as also all the face of the wood that goeth into the trunk, when you have put the trunk upon the britch of wood, nail it round about the shoulder, first making holes with a bodkin through the pastbords, and then driving in the nails upon that wood which you made to receive the pastbords or trunks on, being cut lower than the rest by two inches, the thickness of the trunk, because when it was put on, it might be level with the rest of the britch, these things done, cover both wood and trunk with cord and glue again, which being well dried will last a long time, I have such a one of this making, wherewith I use to shoot Ballouns into the air, for my recreation. There is a very honest man in the Market Town of Bromsgrove, named John Tilt, who can make either Mortar-pieces or Ordnance, with Tin, Wire, Pasteboard, and glue, of excellent durance and service, if not wronged in the charge or loading of them. CHAP. 2. How to fit and prepare Granades for the Morter-peece. MOst commonly the shot for great Mortar-pieces are one tenth part lower than the bore, because of cording them to sling into the mouth of the piece, and for fear of secret cracks, that cannot easily be espied, they are coated with pitch, so that being prepared, they do but just fit the bore. How to make Fuses. Every Ball hath a hole, left to put in a Fuse or piece of wood just like a Faucet for a spigot, this hole must be one quarter the diameter of the wooden Fuse, which Fuse must be in length three quarters the height of the Granade, made taper, and when filled with composition driven gently in amongst the powder that is in the ball, leaving a little of it without: the composition for this Fuse is made thus: take one pound of Powder, four ounces of Saltpetre, and one of Brimstone, first beaten to powder, and sifted in a serce severally; these ingredients being mixed together, your composition is made fit for use. CHAP. 3. The manner how to make Granades of Canvas for the Mortar. THe operation of these Granades made of canvas, is quite contrary to those already set down, these are only fit to fire a Town, they are not of so violent execution as the precedent yet altogether as costly in the making; for the making of them fill a piece of canvas upon a round ball of wood, so big as you would have your Granadoe. Then make this composition following, four pound of Saltpetre, two pound of Gunpowder dust, and two pound of Brimstone: all these incorporated and moistened with oil of Saltpetre, fill your case with this compound, and cover it with cords, which done pierce the sack full of holes with a good bodkin, and in every hole place a little iron barrel, charged like a Pistol: these must be driven into the sack up to the head, the Granadoe being thus prepared, let there be made a hole about one inch deep, which shall serve to prime it with powder-dust, moistened with oil of Petroll; you may make all those barrels of old musket barrels, or of other pieces either little or bigger, only leave wide touch-holes, to the end the rust stop them not, so they may be preserved many years; and ready for service at all occasions. CHAP. 4. How to make fiery Arrows or Darts. GEt a long shaft of wood, and join unto it an iron head, after the manner of the figure, in the margin; and about the middle of that head make first a linen bag, in form of an Egg, leaving open naval combat with arrows and grenadoes at the end before a hole, that it may be fitted with the composition following. Take one pound of Petor, half a pound of Gunpowder, and as much Brimstone in powder; all these ingredients being well mixed, and mingled with oil of Petrioll: with these fill the bag round about the arrow head: then let all be bound about with wire, and for the priming of these, dip Cotton-weeke into Gunpowder wet with water, let the Cotton be well dried again before it be applied. Now for the joining of your wooden shaft to the arrow head, it ought to be done so slightly; that being fastened into any thing, those may be deceived, and pull it only away, & to hinder that one may not pluck out the head with their hands; there may be made a small hole quite thorough backwards, and so a man will be prevented in assaying to pull it off; although it stick in his fellows clothes. CHAH. 5. How Granades are to be charged in the Mortar. THere aught to be great care taken in the loading or charging of the Mortar, which must be done thus; First, weigh the powder to a dram, that you put in the Chamber, and after it put a good close wad of hey (for to my knowledge and deep experience it is very uncertain shooting, you using in stead of hey, a tampion of wood) which done cut up a turf of the ground, that may fill the bottom of the bowl, or bore, of the Mortar, next the wad: your Granadoe being prepared, as is before taught, with a coat of pitch and chord, sling it into the mouth of the Mortar, observing to have the Fuse of the Granadoe in the middle of the bore: then go to the britch, thrust up a wire into the touchhole, to make all sure, then prime with special dry powder, such as you are sure will take fire, this being the whole business in which your life and Motter-peece both stand in jeopardy: I will give you very sure directions to give fire. Provide small Fuses, such as I taught you to make before for the shells, but a great deal less; about one quarter of an inch bore, three quarters in thickness, and eight inches long: fill these with good powder dust, moistened with oil of Saltpetre, you must moisten it but a little, and put it in with an iron rammer, try whether you like the time they continue burning, if too slow, abate oil of Peter, if otherwise, add it thereunto. These being made ready, the use of them is thus: thrust the pike of your Linstock in at one end of the Fuse you mean to give fire withal, bid one of your assistants come on one side of the mouth of the piece, and give fire to your fuse, wherewith fire the Fuse in the Mortar, and then with great speed give fire to the touchhole. These Fuses are very certain to give fire, but Match doth oft times fail. CHAP. 6. How to level the Morter-peece, to make an effectual shot at any assigned mark. firing a grenado from a mortar Suppose, that you made your experimental shot at 46 degrees, and your ball ranged 320 paces, how many more degrees must you mount the Mortar to shoot 280 paces: that being the distance to your assigned mark: multiply 320 by 46, and there ariseth 14720, which divide by 280, you shall have 52 degrees, and above half one, to which you must mount, to reach the appointed place. Note, That if you are to play a Morter-peece along time against a Fort, you are to cease upon a barrel of the best powder in the Magazine, and keep it for your use; also go into some place free from fire and stir this powder, that in case one end be weaker than the other, you may mend that defect: for I do assure you, that if you change your powder, you have lost all your experience, and are as new to begin again, as at the first time: also beware of using tampions, let one man constantly put in the wad, giving him charge to make the like wad, and use the same strength, so near as he can, which he did before; wash every one of your shells before you coat or put the chord upon them, when you have made them clean, put a little powder into one of them, and give fire to it with a match, then suddenly clap a clot of clay upon the hole; then observe diligently whether any smoke come out on the sides, if it do then that must be very carefully coated, or not used, but those that vent no smoke: you may trust to be good ones. Another observation I will tell you of, that is, you must by the help of a great pair of Scales weigh every shot, and make them all even of a weight, by putting there into so many Musket bullets as will make them even, this being done, fill that which is heaviest, (for without doubt that will contain least powder) put the powder out again, and weigh that powder; such a quantity, and no more, fill all your Granades withal. CHAP. 7. How to make Granades to cast with men's hands. HAving taught how to make Granades for the Morter-peece, and that in an easier and plainer way than any ever before me hath done to my knowledge: I will show how to prepare some small Granades for the hand, the effects whereof are no less esteem than the other, chief in assaults; whether it be for the offendants or defendants; First of all fill these small shells with fine Gunpowder, then make a Fuse of two men making grenadoes one pound of Gunpowder, six ounces of Saltpetre, and one of Charcoal, or if you would have them of less durance, you may take of the composition made for the Fuses of great Granades, knock the Fuse up to the head within one quarter of an inch: which is only to find it by in the night, stop well the rest of the hole in the Granadoe, (if any chinks are open) with soft wax: then coat it with pitch and hurds, lest it should break with the fall, and be sure when you have fired the Fuse, suddenly to cast it out of your hand. CHHP. 8. How to make fiery Wheels, to be cast with men's hands. BEcause every soldier will not meddle with hand Granades, the using of them being somewhat dangerous, I will here teach another kind of Fireworks which is little less offensive, for the making thereof, you are to use these ingredients: Take four pound of Gunpowder in dust, one pound of Charcoal dust, two pound of Tar, two of Saltpetre, and one pound of Rosin; all these ingredients being well incorporated, and heat over the fire, steep tow or flax in the same, and then wrap the tow, and flax about a hoop, and then cover all this again with Gunpowder dust; and in time of musketeers firing through a breech in a wall need give fire to them, & cast them amongst your enemies, this is to be observed, that the hoops ought not to be too large, but falling upon a many soldiers they may there stay and stick, and ●o make them more troublesome, and entangling, two of them may be tied across one another; and then falling upon any man he cannot choose but be much astonished, with such a fearful element, and put his company in great disorder. CHAP. 9 How to make and prepare a Petard. WHosoever would make exactly a Petard, aught to cast a Mortar, much like unto an Apothecaries; but a great deal deeper, if you make it to weigh 36 pound, the concavity must contain six pound of powder, if you add or diminish more or less mettle, do so likewise with the Calliber or bore, for the charging of this Petard, fill it only with the best Gunpowder you can, to the brim almost, and then cover it with a round board, made fit for the purpose, and for the priming thereof make a Potfire, or Fuse, of slow composition, of what length you please, this must be put down a hole in the middle of the cover of wood, a good way into the powder, if the Piece have no touchhole, and close waxed about that no spark of fire should get in, and the Petard is prepared, to break open the place you desire if it be accessible, then with the breech of the Petard, upon the ground, or some great stone, or piece placing a petard at a castle gate of wood, and the mouth against the part of the door, or gate, but if the place be unaccessible, then make a little Cart with two, or four wheels, and so support the recoil of the Petard, shooting off: The Petard must be made fast to a long beams end, that must go across the ditch or moat, the rest of the beam and heaviest part thereof resting upon the Wheels, able to counterpoise the other part thereof, together with the Petard: and it is prepared for to make a breach in a slender wall, or door, or gate, unaccessible. CHAP. 10. Of Artificial Fireworks for Recreation and delight. How to make Rockets for the Air. I Will not teach how to make Moulds, Needles, etc. for such men as are curious in these things, let them buy Master Bate, Master Babington, or for a need Master Malthus Fireworks: that which I will only do shall be to teach to make them without Moulds, or any other thing then a rouler to roll the paper upon: for such I use to make, having all other devises that are taught by the aforesaid learned men, but make little use of them; to make Rockets my way do thus, cause a Rowler to be turned in a lathe, what thickness you please: only let the rouler be 8 times the diameter thereof in length, if it be three quarters of an inch in thickness, the length will be three inches, roll your paper hard on the rouler, till it make an inch and one quarter the whole thickness rouler and all, then glue the uppermost paper, and the case is made, only choking or contracting the paper together, (within one diameter of the bore of the end) except one little hole, about one quarter the Diameter of the bore thereof: to contract these cases on this manner, do thus, wet the end about one inch in water, than put the rouler in again, and tie a great packthrid about the wet, within three quarters of an inch of the end, put another thing almost of the same diameter of the rouler in at the wet end about half an inch, hold it there, get some other body to draw the packthrid together, you holding the rouler and rammer, one put down to the end within one inch, and the rammer which must be a little less in diameter, to meet with that end within half an inch, in which place the contract or choking must be, the packthrid having drawn it together, tie it fast on that place, take out the former, let it dry and it is done: when the hole is contracted together, make it so wide, as is before taught, with a round Bodkin, which you must provide for that purpose. a rocket B A A The mouth of the Rocket. B so far must the Bodkin be thrust up the middle. You must have a smaller Bodkin (which when your Rockets are filled with composition, and tied to the rod) you must thrust this Bodkin in at the mouth, strait up to the midst of the Rocket, having a care of thrusting it nearer one side then the other. CHAP. 11. How to make the Composition for Rockets of any Size. THese ways which I will teach you, I take them not upon trust out of Authors to that purpose, but have experimented what I teach, and first for Rockets of one ounce, you must use only Cannon-powder dust, being beaten in a mortar and finely scarsed, which riseth very swift, making a great noise, but carries no tail: those of most beauty in their operation are made, with putting one ounce of charcoal dust, to eight ounces of powder, this composition will hold for Rockets of one, two, and three ounces; but for those of four, take three ounces of charcoal to one pound of Cannon-powder dust, continuing that rule, until you come to Rockets of ten ounces, and from thence to Rockets of a pound, one pound powder dust, and four ounces of charcoal dust: bigger than these I have no experience of. To fill the Rockets with this composition. Place the mouth downwards where it was choked, and with a knife put in so much as you can of the receipts, provided for that size at one time, then put down your rammer, which must be longer and narrower than the former or Rouler upon which you made the cases, and with a hammer of a pound weight, give three or four indifferent knocks, then put in more composition with your knife, until it be full, at every time knocking the like as before, with the rammer, until the composition come within one diameter of the bore of the top, there put down a piece of pasteboard, and knock it in hard, prick three or four little holes therein, then put fine pistol powder in almost to the top, and upon that another cap of paper, upon which put a piece of leather, that it may be tied on the top of the Rocket, and fast glued on, then get a straight twig, and bind it upon the Rocket with strong packthrid, it must be no heavier, then being put upon your finger, two or three fingers breadths from the mouth of the same, it may just ballast the Rocket; than it is prepared for use. CHAP. 12. How to give fire to one or more Rockets. SEt your Rockets mouth upon the edge of a●y piece of timber, battlement of a wall, top of the Gunners carriage wheel, or any dry place whatsoever, where the rod or twig may hang perpendicular from it, then lay a train of powder that may come under the mouth thereof, give fire thereunto and you have done. But if you would fire more Rockets than one, that as one descendeth the other may ascend by degrees, make this composition following, of Roch peeter 8 ounces, Quick Brimstone 4 ounces, and fine Powder dust 2 ounces, which lay in a line from one rocket to another, they being placed ten inches or a foot one from another, give fire to this composition, and it will work your desire, by causing one to mount into the air when the other is spent, but before you place your Rockets, remember to prick them with the bodkin, as I have taught you in the tenth Chapter, at the latter end thereof. CHAP. 13. Divers and sundry Compositions for Stars. A Composition for Stars of a blue colour mixed with red. Take of Powder mealed, 8 ounces. Take of Saltpetre, 4 ounces. Take of Quick Brimstone. 12 ounces. Meal all these very fine, and mix them together with two ounces of Aquavitae, and half an ounce of oil of Spike, which let be very dry before you use it. Another Composition which maketh a white and beautiful fire. Take Powder, 8 Ounces. Take Saltpetre, 24 Ounces. Take Quick Brimstone. 12 Ounces. Take Camphire 1 Ounces. Meal these Ingredients and incorporate them: Now to meal your Camphire, take a brass pestle and mortar, wet the end of the pestle in a little of the oil of Almonds, and it will meal to powder, then keep it close from the air, else it will become of no use. Another white fire which lasteth long. Take Powder, 4 Ounces. Take Saltpetre, 16 Ounces. Take Brimstone, 8 Ounces. Take Camphire, 1 Ounces. Take Oil of Peter. 2 Ounces. Meal those that are to be mealed, and mix. them according to the former directions CHAP. 14. The manner of making Stars; and to use them. TAke little four squar pieces of brown paper, which fill with the composition you approve of best, of the three last taught: so double it down, rolling it until you make it round, about the bigness of a nut, or bigger, according to the size of your Rocket, that you intent them for, prime them, with drawing thorough them Cotton-week, and they are prepared. You may also make them after this manner, you must have a rouler which must be as big as an ordinary arrow, which shall be to roll a length of paper about it, and with a little glue past it round; when it is dry draw out the rouler, and fill it by little and little, with a thimble: still thrusting it down, every filling of a thimble, with the rouler; which being filled cut it in short pieces, about half an inch long, then having in readiness either hot glue, or size, mingled with red lead; dip therein one end of your short pieces, lest they take fire at both ends together; and because that it may not so easily blow out: these being thus finished, set them to dry until you have occasion to use them: and then putting the open end in powder on the top of the Rocket, in that place after the first pasteboard; or cover, is placed in a Rocket; next the composition, where I taught you before to put powder for to make a report: which now you must leave out to place in these Stars; after this manner make two or three holes in that pasteboard, which prime with powder-dust: and thereupon put a little Pistol powder, to blow the Stars out, when the Rocket is spent: after the powder, put as I have said before, the open ends of these Stars, down upon that powder: when you have put them so close as they can stick one by the other, put a little small corned powder on the top of them, to run between them, and put another tire of Stars upon that, and in like manner a third tire upon them, till you come to the top of the Rocket-case, there put a paper over the head of it, and tie it close about the top, that none of the powder come from under or between the Stars. How to prepare the Cotton-week, to prime the first sort of Stars. Take Cotton-week, such as the Chandler's use for Candles, double it six or seven times double; and wet it thoroughly in Saltpetre water, or Aquavitae, wherein some Camphire hath been dissolved, or for want of either in fair water, cut it in divers pieces, roll in mealed powder, dry it in the Sun, and it is done. CHAP. 15. How to make silver and golden Rain, and how to use them. NOw I show you the order of making golden Rain, which is after this manner, you must provide store of Goose-quills, which being provided, you must cut them off so long as they are hollow, the composition to fill these must be made thus; two ounces of coaldust to one pound of powder well mixed; having filled many of these quills, you shall place them in the same place as I taught you to put the powder and Stars, first putting a small quantity of Pistol powder under them, to blow them out when the Rocket is spent: upon this put your quills, as many as will fill the top of the case, with the open end downwards, so soon as the Rocket is spent, you shall see appear a golden shower, which by some is called golden Rain, the like way you may make silver Rain; filling the quills with the Composition for white Stars. CHAP. 16. How to make Fisgigs, which some call by the name of Serpents, and to use them. YOu must provide a small rolling pin, about one quarter of an inch in thickness, upon which roll seven or eight thicknesses of paper: fill them four inches with powder dust, sometimes putting between the filling a little of the Composition for Rockets of 10 ounces: and at the end of four inches choke him, fill two inches more with Pistol powder; then choke the end up: at the other end put in a little of the mixture for Stars, and choke between that & the composition, & you have done: put divers of these with the Starry end downwards, upon the head of a Rocket, as you did the quills, with powder to blow them out, when the Rocket is spent, they will first appear like so many Stars, when the Stars are spent, taking hold of the powder dust; they will run wriggling to and fro like Serpents, and when that Composition is spent, they will end with every one a report, which will give great content. I shall have occasion to speak of these Fisgigs in other Fireworks. CHAP. 17. How to make Girondels, or (as some call them) Fire Wheels. A Fire Wheel, is often required in great Works for pleasure, and therefore I have thought fit and necessary, to set down their description: as well as of all other sorts of Fireworks; First, you must make a Wheel of Wood, so big as you please to make Girondels, and unto these bind Rockets very fast of a mean bigness, with the mouth of one towards the tail of another, thus continuing until you have filled your Wheel quite round, which done, cover them with paper pasted very curiously, that one taking fire, they may not take fire altogether; and daub Soap upon them quite round, leaving the mouth of one of them open to give fire thereto, for the first Rocket having burned, will give fire to the next; keeping the Wheel in continual motion, until they be all spent: there may be bound fire Lances, to these Girondels, either upright, or near, overthwart, which will make to appear diversity of fiery Circles; Your care must be, to place the Girondels at a convenient distance, from other Fire-Works: lest they should cause confusion, and spoil all your Work. CHAP. 18. How to represent divers sorts of Figures in the Air with Rockets. I Have taught you to make a report upon the head of a Rocket, and also to place golden or silver Hair or Rain, or Stars, or Fisgigs, which when you have divers Rockets to make for a great Firework, let one be with a report, the next with Stars, another with Gold Hair, or Rain, one with Silver Hair or Rain, for standing just under the Rocket it appeareth like Rain, but being aside hand like Golden or Silver Hair: and upon the head of another Rocket place the Fisgigs, which when the Rocket is spent will first appear like so many Stars after they are ended, they will show like Serpents wriggling to and fro, and lastly, give every one his report. To represent a Tree in the Air. launching fireworks It is a rare thing to represent a Tree or Fountain, in the air, which made by putting many little Rockets upon one great one, passing all the rods of the little ones thorough wires, made on purpose upon the sides of the great one, or some other way, as your industry will discover, now if the little ones take fire while the great one is mounting up, they will represent a Tree, but if they take fire as the great one is descending or turning down again towards the ground; then they will be like a fountain of fire, if there be two or three little Rockets amongst others, that have no rods, they will make divers motions contrary to the rest, very pleasing. If before you put the Fisgigs upon the head of a great Rocket, you with a small string tie them together, a foot of line between, when they are on fire in the Air you will see very great variety of Figures, because as they wriggle to and fro, they will pull one another after them, to the speculatour a great deal of content: it will be pleasant if you tie them not all together but three or four, which will in the firing of them, be distinguished from the rest, with great variety. CHAH. 19 How to make Fire-lances. THe use of these Lances is much required in all great Fire-Works, and I taught you before to use them in the Fire-Wheels, the manner of their making is thus, you must make Cartouches or cases just like the cases for Rockets: only these for a need may be made of pasteboard, and glued as they are a rolling of them, if for great ones; but it is best to make little ones of paper, the case being provided, let them be filled with the dry composition for Stars; in the thirteenth Chapter of this Book: prime them with wet Gunpowder, the lower end of the case is stopped with a piece of wood, to the end they may be nailed, and stuck, when, and where, they shall be used, the wood being about three fingers breadth long, out of the Cartouch. CHAP. 20. How to make a Rocket, which firing it out of your hand, shall continually be in agitation, either on the earth, or in the air. HAving prepared a rocket with a report in the head, such as I taught you first to make, tie it to a bladder, so that the end of the rocket may come to the mouth of the said bladder, and bind it over very strongly, then firing it out of your hand, cast it away from you, it matters not which way, so it will come to the ground; there by reason of the bladder it cannot stay, but presently rebounds upwards, moving to and fro, until all be spent: there is another sort, and that is a small rocket, put into bladder, and so blown up round about it, and tied about the neck thereof, which will have delightful motions. CHAP. 21. The manner how to make Balloones for the Morter-peece. FIrst, you must provide a wooden rowler, twice so long as in diameter, you must have it of such bigness as you desire to make the inside of your Balloon, upon which rouler let there be rolled so many pastbords as you shall think sufficient for strength, being well glued together: then choke this Cartouch at the one end, leaving a little hole for a port-fire, as shall follow, and glue it in, this por-tfire shall be made just like a Rocket, of the bigness of the hole you leave open for it, and filled with composition for Rockets of that size, not pricking it with a bodkin, as you are taught to prick other Rockets, and to know of what length this port-fire ought to be, it will not be amiss to try one Balloon filled with earth, and your port-fire fastened thereunto: a mortar, along with various types of "balloones" Now to fill the Balloon place all your Serpents within it, together with Stars, Rockets and Crackers, in such a convenient manner that there may be very little void room, within the Cartouch: it being thus filled, put in as much powder dust as you can that it may run every where thorough the chinks, between the Serpents, Rockets, and Stars, that they may all fire; and that the said powder dust may break the Balloon: these things being thus disposed choke up the other end close, and charge it in the mortar as I have taught you to do the canvas Granade; and you may shoot it when you please. Such Balloons I have at this present, and do assure the Reader, that this description is in every part proved, and practised by myself; to the knowledge of divers spectators, who have seen these experimented, I do also signify to the ingenious Reader, that it is not good to use so many ingredients (in Fire works) as the Ancient, nor so few as some Modern. CHAP. 22. A most precious Unguent for any burning. BEcause that divers men in their practising Fireworks, one time or other chance to be burned by them, and also by the blowing up of Gunpowder many are burned in the face, or elsewhere. I will show you such salves which I have cured myself withal, I having them out of Master Malthus his Fireworks, and experimented them upon myself to my great good when I was burned. The Unguent. TAke fresh Hogs-grease or Lard, as much as you please, and boil it taking off the skin until there arise no more skin, than set the Lard three or four nights abroad, after which it must be washed in running water, to take away the saltish nature, and also to cleanse it white, then melt it, and keep it for your use. Otherwise. THe white of an Egg, and fresh butter, being mingled together and well beaten into an ointment, is excellent. Another sort most excellent. TAke a stone of quick Lime, and let it dissolve in clear water, and when the water is settled, pour it gently out from the Lime, thorough a linen cloth, then put as much salad oil (as you take water) together, and beating it all to an oil, you shall have a most excellent Unguent for all manner of burning. FINIS.