THE PRESENT STATE OF THE MOREA, Called Anciently Peloponnesus: Which hath been near Two Hundred Years under the Dominion of the Turks; and is now very much Depopulated. Together with a Description of the City of ATHENS, Islands of ZANT, STRAFADES, and SERIGO. Faithfully Described by BERNARD RANDOLPH, who resided in those parts from 1671 to 1679. By His Majesty's Special Licence. LONDON, Printed for the Author, and are to be sold by Tho. Basset in Fleetstreet, John Penn under the Arch in the Temple, and John Hill in Exchange-alley. 1686. MOREA, sometime called PELOPONNESUS, and by the Turks MORA. THE Isthmus or Hexamile is a Neck of Land which joineth it to the Continent of Greece, and makes it a Peninsula. The Length is about ten Miles, and the Breadth at the narrowest place not above Six. There are the Ruins of Three Castles, and a Wall which reached from the City of Canchrea on the Egean Sea, to Lechaeum on the Gulf of Lepanto. There is also a Valley where they endeavoured to have both Seas joined. CORINTH, by the Turks GOURDESE, Is an Ancient City which stands on a Rising Ground, about Two Miles from the Sea of the Gulf of Lepanto. The Houses are much scattered, having many Fields amongst them, together with which they take up above three Miles in compass. There are many pleasant Gardens with all sorts of Fruits. The Houses here are more for Trade and Pleasure than Security, most having other Houses up in the Castle, which stands upon a Hill. To this they retreat when any Pirates come to annoy them, which is often in the Summer time; they coming with their Briganteens, to the Isthmus, which is not above six Miles off. The Hill on which the Castle stands is very high, it was formerly called the Acro Corinthus, and is very steep round about; the part towards the West, North and North East being almost Perpendicular. It is above two Miles from the Town to the Castle. The way up is much winding, and also steep. The Hill is all Stone. The Fortifications are very Ancient. There are two Walls before you pass into the chiefest part of the Castle. The Hill is Walled round at the Top, which is above three Miles. There are some Guns which are of no other use than to Salute any Great Person, or to fire on their Festivals. From the Northermost part is one of the most pleasant Prospects the World affords, looking into the Gulf of Lepanto, Aegean Sea, and several Mountains at great distance, together with those most pleasant Plains of Corinth, and Basilico, which abound with Olive-trees, Vine-yards, and many small Villages. In the Castle the Land is good, where are many Pasture Fields, and plenty of Water, so as it may endure a long Siege; to the West there is a Spring which gusheth out from the Top of the Hill, and falleth down above Fifty Fathom. In the Plains of Corinth were the first Currant Vines Planted. VOSTIZA, Is about twenty Miles within the Mouth of the Gulf of Lepanto, Seated on a Rising Ground about a Quarter of a Mile from the Seaside. It is but a small Town without any Fortifications. The Plain about it affords Corn, Currant, and Wine, Olive-trees there are not many, it lying too open to the Northerly Winds, which bring very cold Blasts from the Mountains on the other side the Gulf. The Mountains to the South, are not above Five Miles from the Town, which are very high, and continue to the Plains of Basilico, betwixt which and the Sea is the Road to Corinth, which is very bad way to pass in the Winter, there being no cut Rivers, and the Floods overflowing make several Waters, some above a Mile broad. There are no Inhabitants between the Plain of Basilico and this Place, nor is the Soil good, being most Stony, and having many Woods, nor is it above two Miles from the Sea to the Mountains in most places. There is no Port at Vostiza, nor any Shelter for Boats on all this side of the Gulf. PARTRASS, formerly called PATRA, Is an Ancient City. It stands about Nine Miles without the Castles, at the Mouth of the Gulf of Lepanto, on a Hill about a Quarter of a Mile from the Sea. The greatest part of the Town runs down towards the South East, overlooking the Plain. The Houses are thick, and are above two Miles about, including the Castle, which stands to the North above the Town. The Castle is well built, having very high Walls, to the Eastward is a dry Ditch with a low Wall; towards the Sea is a round Tower well built, high and strong, which has Six very long Guns to command the Road, but they lie too high to do any harm to Ships, except a Shot should chance to hit any of the Masts. There are many Ruins about the City. To the Eastward is a very great Mountain, the Foot of which is about ten Miles from the Town. The Plain is very delightsome, having many pleasant Gardens with all sorts of Fruits. The largest, and best Lemons are here of any place in the Morea: At the Sea side there are only a few Storehouses. About a Quarter of a Mile from them to the South, are the Ruins of a Great Church which was Dedicated to St. Andrew. There are no Fortifications by the Seaside nearer than the Castles at the Gulf. In the Summer time there is a continual Watch by the Seaside, of both Horse and Foot; the Town dividing into several Parties, one Party goes down every night scouting along the Marine, not suffering any Boats to come a shore till it be Day. Before this place was the great fight betwixt the Christians and the Turks, in October 1571. when the Christians were Victorious. GASTON, formerly called ELIS, Stands in a very large Plain about Eight Miles from the Bay of Chiarenza. The Houses are very much scattered; without Walls or any Fortification. The greatest part of the Inhabitants are Husbandmen. The Country about it is very pleasant. There are several large Woods about it. The Land is most Ploughed, and Pasture Land, having very few Olive or Fruit trees. In the time of War with the Venetians, here is usually a basha with a Number of Horse. who guard the Coast. There is no Fortification by the Seaside from the Gulf of Lepanto to Navareene, except the Castle of Arcadia a Mile from the Sea. From Partrass to Gaston the way is plain, and so continues to Navardene a long the Sea side. The Black Mountains, and Castle Tornese are left on the Lest hand. Castle TORNESE, by the Turks called CLOMUTCH, Stands on a high Hill on a Promontory, the most West of all the Morea. It is about Six Miles from the Ruins of Chiarenza, and not above Eighteen Miles from the Island of Zante. At Sea it seems to be an Island. The Castle is well built, having the Walls very high, but much out of repair. It has no Ditch about it, nor has it any other Strength than from the Situation, not having above twenty Guns. Under the Walls is a small Town where Sir Henry Hid (who was sometime Consul for the English Nation in the Morea) lived in great State, built a small Church, and a fair House with many Gardens and Vine-yards about it. The Church remains entire. The Situation is very pleasant, and was by the Venetians called Bel videre. ARCADIA, formerly called CYPARISSA, Stands in a Great Bay about a Mile from the Sea. The Castle and Town stand on scragged Rocks, under high Mountains. The Castle is much out of repair, nor can it be made strong to resist any Enemy, the Mountains so overlooking it. Before it is a pleasant Plain along the Sea side. It has no Harbour for Shipping, so that they carry their Oil and other Merchandise to Navareene. In time of Peace with the Venetians, they carry them to Zante. The Town is small and not much inhabited. NAVAREENE, formerly called PYLUS, Has the best Harbour in all the Morea. It is about five Miles long, and three broad, having an Island lying before it called Spactoria. Formerly there where two Entrances into the Harbour, but in the Year 1571, when the Christians obtained the great Victory over the Turks before the Gulf of Lepanto; the Turks having several Ships, and Galleys in the Harbour, and fearing the Christians would come in and destroy them, stopped up the Entrance to the West of the Island (so as only small Boats can now pass;) and built a very strong Castle to the Eastward called New Navareene, which is very well built, and commands the Entrance. It has about Forty Guns, which are most towards the Sea. The Land to the South East lies high. To the west end of the Harbour stands Old Navareene (formerly called Pylus) on a high Hill very steep; the Walls are very much out of repair, great part being fallen down, there are very few Inhabitants in it. It might be made impregnable, no hills being near it. I cannot say whether they have any Guns in it. This place in other Maps is put down above 20 Miles from the Sea, and the Island of Spactoria (which makes the Harbour) left out. MODON, Is a very strong Castle which stands on a low Point of Land. The Sea washeth the Foundations of the Walls above three Quarters round: the Walls are very high. The Port is to the Eastward, it hath a small Mole to contain two or three Galleys; the Port is not secure for Ships, South West Winds having too great Power here. To the South lies the Island of Sapienza about two Miles from the Point of the Castle. To command the Passage a round Tower is built, which hath several great Guns, that lie equal with the Water. Towards the Land by the Port is a dry Ditch five Yards deep, and about twenty Yards broad, between which and the main Castle is a very strong Battery of about ten Guns. There is a dry Ditch, and Draw-bridges to pass into the Body of the Castle. To the North West is another Battery to secure that Mount, where are very good Guns. On the Walls towards the Port are three Towers, in each of which are small Guns: in all, they say, here are about One hundred Guns. The Town stands about half a Mile from the Castle, being inhabited by Greeks. In the Port is a small Island on which a Battery might be raised and do much harm to the Castle, it being as high as the Walls. The Castle is above a Mile about. CORON, Is situated on a Point of Land which runs out about half a Mile. It is much higher towards the Land then at the Point. The Sea goes two Thirds about it. The Walls are high, and their Foundations on scraggy Rocks. The Fortification is in much better repair than at Modon. Towards the Land the Walls are above Forty Foot high, and here is a round Tower above Sixty Foot high, in which are several very good Guns to answer the Land, which runs higher than the Walls. At the Southward part of the Castle the Land goes sloping down towards the Sea side, from the Walls of the Castle, the ground is not Rocky in that part. There are about seventy good Guns about the Wall, and several of the Works are Arched over. To the North is a round Tower which stands low to command the Road. Here is no Harbour for Galleys, nor is the Road very secure. It had formerly a good Mole which is now sunk; which, with other Ruins has so choked up the harbour, that most buoy up their Cables with Cask to keep them from ground. CALAMATA, formerly called THURIUM, Is at the bottom of the Bay of Coron, about a Mile from the Sea. The Castle is but small. The Town is near a Mile in Circumference, well Peopled, standing on a rising Ground. To the West is a very large and fertile Plain, in which are many Greek Villages, and two small Towns, the one called Cochiuk Magna, the other Niscia. The latter is most small Islands, which little Rivers make. (Niscia signifying Islands in the Vulgar Greek.) The Plain about Calamata towards the Sea is all planted with Vineyards, Olive, Figg and Mulberry-trees. On the West part of the Bay by the Sea side, are the Ruins of Old Messina, which the Lacedæmonians besieged with a powerful Army. The Messineses seeing they were not able to withstand their Enemy's Power, fired their City, embarked themselves, and went to Sicilia, where they built the present City of Messina. MESITHA, formerly called LACEDAEMON, Is situated at the side of a large Plain on a rising Ground, about twenty five Miles from the Sea side, having very high Mountains all to the West of the Plain. The Castle stands to the West on a very high Hill, steep on the West, and South part, where it is inaccessible, but sloping to the North, having two old Walls which cross the Hill from the North to the South, dividing the Hill almost into three Parts. The way into the Castle is very difficult. The Walls of the Castle are well built, but very old. It is near half a Mile about, having two Gates to be passed. The Town is large, and is esteemed the second for bigness in all the Morea, yet Patrass hath more houses. The Ruins about it are very great, and towards the South they reach above four Miles, having in some places the Foundation of a thick Wall, which they say was the Walls of Sparta. To the North about a Quarter of a Mile from the Town, is a great and high Building, which they say was an Arch of an Aquaeduct. The Plain is very pleasant, full of small Villages, Olive, and Mulberry trees. This Place and Calamata make more Silk than all the other parts of the Morea. The River which runs through the Plain is now called Vasili Pottamo. In Winter it spreads very large, but in Summer towards the City is almost dry. Tho' the City stands remote from the Sea, and free from dangers that ensue from thence; yet the Manjotts are a People apt to prey upon them. MAINA, which some writ BRAZZO di MAINA, Is that Country where the Manjotts inhabit. It lies West of the Plain of Misitha, and so runs down to the Sea, being Mountainous and full of Woods, and very difficult to come at, either by Sea, or Land. In the Year 1667, they rebelled and sent to the Venetians and Malteses who came to their assistance, bringing with them Powder, and other Ammunition. Many Parties of them would often make Incursions into the Turks Dominions, and did much harm. But the Captain Bassha, who went with Forty Galleys, to relieve a Castle called Zarnata, reduced them to their former Obedience. Articles were drawn up, in which the Manjotts consented to pay a small Tribute. Yet do they continue to cruise about with their Briganteens. If they take any Turks, they sell them to the Malteses, and Legorneses', as they do the Christians to the Turks. If any Ship come to Anchor on their Coast, many arm themselves and go to the place, over against where the Ship doth ride; some of them will be in Priests Habits, walking by the Sea side, with their Wallets, in which they will have some Wine and Bread. Their Companions lie hid behind the Bushes at some convenient Post. When any strangers come ashore, who do not understand their Language, the feigned Priests make signs to them, showing them their Bread and Wine, which they offer to them for money, by which the strangers being enticed from the Sea fide (and it may be to sit down and taste their Wine) the hidden Manjotts come and make their Prey. The Priests will seem to be sorry, and endeavour to make the strangers believe they were altogether ignorant of any such design. So a white Flagg is put out, and a Treaty held with the Ship for their Ransom. The Priests endeavour to moderate the Price, showing a great deal of respect to their Companions, who are clothed in Turkish Habits. Many Ships have been thus served. Such a business happened to some English Ships, who (having the Winds contrary) came to Anchor near the Island Cervi, (in one of which Sir Paul Rycaut was a Passenger going for Constantinople;) several Young Men were taken, and they paid dear for visiting the Manjotts, and though the Earl of Winchilsea, (than Ambassador (from his Majesty) at Constantinople) made complaint of it, no redress could be had. In the Plains are many Olive Trees, and Vine-yards: In the Woods there are many wild Vines. There are great quantities of Quails, so as they Salt them up, and send them to several other parts. Powder and Shot is here scarce, but they do so well manage the Sling, as is to admiration, with which they kill Birds on the Wing. The Sea Ports in Maina, are, Chetri, Vitulo, Porto Quaglio, Yaracaria, Pagana, Rapana, with several other small Ports and Creeks, where they shelter themselves when they are pursued. The Garrisons which the Turks have in Maine are Zarnata, Vitulo, Kifala, and Passava. Here are two Famous Pirates, the one called Manetta, the other Giracare, being the chief for Family and Power amongst them. MALVASIA, formerly called EPIDAURES, Is a strong Castle standing on a Rock about twenty Miles to the North of the Cape St. Anzolo in the Archipelago. It has a narrow and difficult Passage to the Continent. It is very well Fortified with good Works, having about 100 good Guns; notwithstanding it stands in the Sea, and seems to be all Rock, yet it hath on the top a fine Plain with Gardens and several Springs, with good Water. This place stands very convenient for transporting Men and Provision for Candy, not being above thirty League's distance from Canea: Hence the Visier Kupri-Ogle sailed when he went for Candy, and more Soldiers were Shipped from hence for Candy (in the late War) than from any other Port of Turkey. It is very populous, and the Seamen are esteemed the best of any in these parts. Here are the choicest Wines, esteemed at Venice to be the best of all in Greece. NAPOLI, Is a large City, now the chief in all the Morea, being above two Miles in Compass, the Sea going almost round it. The houses stand thick, and very full of People. It is the Seat of the basha. The Castle is well seated to the North, standing above any part of the Town. There is but one way into the City by Land, which is at the side of high Mountains, very difficult. The Harbour is very secure, having a narrow entrance, passing Rocks so as but one Galley can come in at a time. Before which Entrance is a Fort built on low Rocks, where are several very good Guns. It stands about 300 Paces from the Haven, have shoal Water round about it. No Ships can come to hurt the City with their Shot, it being covered to Seaward from any danger, by high and strong Walls, on which and in the Castles are above 200 Guns. ARGOS, Is about twenty four Miles from the Sea. It stands in a very fine Plain, having more Houses and Inhabitants than Corinth, but not so much scattered. The Castle is seated on a Hill very pleasantly. The Walls are much gone to ruin, having but few Guns, and those without Carriages. The Ruins are above three miles about the Castle. The Plain is very delightsome, abounding with Wine, Oil, and all sorts of Grain. TRAPOLIZZA, formerly called MEGALOPOLIS, Hath the Name of a City, tho' it be not so big as some Towns. It is now the chief place of all the (once Famous) Province of Arcadia. The Turks call it Mora Orta, that is, the Centre or Middle of the Morea. Here are very rich Turks, who have their Wealth in Land and Cattle; most being Graziers and Husbandmen. This is the only place which deserves the Name of a Town in the whole Province. The Great Mask was formerly a Heathen Temple. The Houses are very mean: The Turks live most in their Farms, which they call Cheftlicks, not being in danger of Pirates. The Province of Arcadia is all surrounded with Mountains, most of which are covered with Woods. Yearly they burn the Grass and Briers to clear the ground against the Spring, than very good Pasture grows up in its stead. There hath been many Villages, some have been Cities, but now the Albanese, (who are the Shepherds, and three times the Number, as the Turks, and Greeks which are in these parts) live most in Tents, removing their Tents and Herds according to the season of the Year. In the Summer time they are up in the Mountains, and in the Winter they are in the Woods by the Sea side, being more or less Tents together. There are a sort of these Albanese which have a great Village called Syleman, as the Mountains have the same Name. These Albaneses have often Rebelled and kept themselves up in the Mountains, doing much mischief by Robbery. They were so strong in the Year 1679, as the basha went with 500 Men to reduce them by granting a General Pardon. LEPANTO, formerly called NAUPACTUS, And now by the Turks Einabackti, stands on the Rumili shore about three Miles within the Castles at the Entrance of that Gulf. It is situated on the side of a high and steep Hill, having six Walls from the Waterside to the Castle, which cross the Hill, all which and the Castle are furrounded with a high Wall, which runs up at each side of the City. The Houses stand scattering between these several Walls, but the greatest part are by the Seaside. The Castle stands on the top of the Hill. It is kept in very good repair. There are about twenty very good Guns. The Port is almost Oval, having a very narrow Entrance. There is a Chain which passes from one side to the other. At each side of the Entrance are places for many Guns, tho' now they have not above three or four. The City is well Peopled being a Nest of Pirates. It yielded to the Turk in the Year 1499, after a long Siege before. The Turks having the Castles at the Entrance into the Gulf, the Christians had no hopes of Relief, so were forced to yield themselves up to their Mercy, who gave them free leave to departed. In the time of War with the Venetians the Briganteens of this place were a continual Plague to the People of Zant, and Ceffalonia. A Famous Corsare of this place called Durach Beigh, went with Eleven Briganteens and in the Night time Landed at Cherri, on the South part of the Island of Zant, taking away above 200 Slaves, and at Day break appeared before the Port of Zant with Colours flying, and firing his Guns, gave them notice of his Prize, almost as soon as they had the News by Land; so got safe to his Port with this great Success. The day before was a solemn Feast kept at Cherri, and many People came from the City of Zant to pay their Devotions to the Panaija there. Since the Peace with the Venetians, they go upon the Coast of Apuglia, and take poor Countrymen, bringing them to miserable Slavery. The City of Lepanto hath the whole trade of the Gulf, here being the Customer who takes his Duties on all Boats that go in or out. The plains are very pleasant, at each side of the City, with many Olive-trees, and Vine-yards. To the Eastward of the City about a quarter of a Mile out of Town, there is a great Spring which gusheth out of a Rock at the Foot of a high Mountain; it divides into several Streams which makes some Islands, these Islands are most cut square, which are covered by vast high Plane-trees, that stand very thick, and so, as at Noonday it is shady all about the Spring. In the Summer time here are continually many Turks, bringing their Victuals with them, and tarry most part of the day. About Fifteen Miles from hence, upon the same side of the Gulf, stands a small Village called Vitrenizza, near unto which Sir Giles Eastcourt was Buried, travelling in Company with Mr. Francis Vernon; and in his way towards Mount Parnassus, Sir Giles complained in the Morning, but would not be persuaded to tarry at Lepanto, hoping it would pass: he called to his man to help him down, and in less than half an hour he Died, and was Buried with the assistance of Greek Priests, who live in Vitrenizza. There are two Castle at the Entrance of the Gulf of Lepanto: One is on the Morea shore, the other on Rumili; the Entrance between them is not above a Mile and a half, nor can any Ship pass without danger of being sunk, there being several Guns in each Castle which lie level with the Water. The Castles also sland very low. NATALICO, Is a large Town standing in a Bay, which hath lying before it, two Islands that keep off the main force of the Sea. From the Eastern part at the Entrance of the Bay up to the Town, is a Pescaria or Fishery, it being very shallow, and the bottom muddy, with Weeds; but that part to the Northward of the Town is very deep. No Boats of any Burden can come within a Mile of the Town, nor into that part above it. They have abundance of Monoxylos, or Cannows, which pass through narrow Channels; with these they carry all their Goods to, and from the Town. The Inhabitants are Greeks, no Turks living with them, except some of the Customers Officers, the Customer himself living at Mezzalnnzi, a place about ten Miles distant, upon the side of this Bay. Both these Towns are well Peopled: Neither of them have any Fortification; no Enemy can come by Water to annoy them. On the Eastermost Island is a small Chapel called St. Sosti, against which Ships do Anchor when they come to load. Their Loading is brought from the Town to this Island with Monoxylos, from whence it is carried aboard in the Ships Boats. THE Inhabitants of the Morea, are Turks, Greeks, Albanese and T'Zackonians. The Turks for the most part live in, or under the Command of Castles, and at their Farms in the Country (where they sometimes are;) they have Towers built about Thirty Foot high, the Door of which is about ten Foot from the ground; against which a Wall with Stairs is built, about five Foot from the Tower, to which Wall a Draw-bridge is let down from before the Door where they enter: 'tis every Night drawn up to secure them from Pirates; some have only a Ladder, which they take up into the Tower. There is a continual Watch in the Summer time, all along the Sea Coasts. Of Turks ' there are not above 30000 Inhabitants; the Christians are three times as many. The Greeks have free Exercise of their Religion. Their Priests are very ignorant; scarce any understanding the old Greek; nor are they so Superstitious in their worship to Pictures, as those who live under the Venetians. They have several Monasteries. Near unto Vostiza is one, which is called, La Madonna di Spiglia, it being at the side of a Mountain in a large Cave, where there is a Church, in which is the Picture of the Virgin MARY, which (they say) was brought hither from Constantinople, by Angels at the time when the Turks took that City. There was another Madonna near Misithra, which did many Miracles; and every Year great numbers of Greeks flocked from all parts to pay their Devotions to it. The basha of the Morea having notice, went to see the Ceremony, telling the Priests he was desirous to see some Miracle; they telling him it had done many, he ordered one of his Men to bring him another Picture out of any House, which being brought, he asked the Priests what difference there was betwixt those two Pictures, they answered, that, that Picture which was in the Church was a most Sacred thing. But the basha caused a Fire to be made, and both Pictures to be put into it, saying, he would Worship that which escaped the Fire; but both were burnt, and the basha laughing at their Superstition, went his way. The Christians live much better here than in Asia. The vulgar Greek is the general Language, and there are few Turks but can speak it. Every Town hath Greek Elders which they call Yerondo's.: These appear upon all Public Matters, and levy Taxes on the Towns-People, proportionably to their Abilities. The Albaneses are of the Greek Church. They generally live not in Towns, yet have several Villages; one of which is very large, called Sylemen. It stands in the Mountains near the City of Arcadia, which Mountains have the same Name. They live most in Tents, being for the most part Shepherds. The T'Zackonians are most in Towns, they are a very poor People, serving as Porters, both Men and Women carrying very great Burdens. There are also a great many Jews, who for the most part are Merchants and Shopkeepers, living but poorly; the Athenian Merchants supplying most of the Country with all sorts of Merchandizes, and chief from Venice. The Turks are very rich in their Clothing here, their Vests being most made with fine Venice Cloth. The Merchandizes of the Morea, or Product of the Land, are olive-oil, Raw-Silk, Wax, Honey, Soap, Cordovan-skins, Sheepskins, Butter, Cheese, Raisins, Currants, Figgs, Wines, Wheat, Barley, Rye, Oates, dried Acorns (which the Venetians call Valania, and which are used in Italy for Tanning of Leather, as we use the Bark of the Tree,) Fustick Wood, and Pernicoke Seed, which Seed is for Dying of Scarlet. It grows on a Shurb-Oak-tree, rising at the stem of the Leaf, like a Blister, something bigger than a Pea, out of which comes Dust (or Powder) which being dry turns to small Worms, which when quickened they kill with Wine. The Soil of the Land is very good. They Blow with two Oxen, and without Wheels, nor are they at the pains to dung the Ground. They have many Weeds, and the Liquorice Root is very troublesome being deep. They reap their Corn much in the manner as we do, but have no Barns, only Threshing-floors, (which the Turks call Chirman.) They are on high ground, and open to the Winds. Here they tread it out with Horses, which are made fast to a Post, round which the Corn is put; the Horses trampling upon it make great dispatch: with the Wind they cleanse it, and send it home to their Houses; that which they intent to keep they put into great Earthen Jars, and Baskets made with slit Canes, which Baskets are daubed over with wet Cowdung, which being well dried, not only keeps in the Corn, but also preserves it cool. The Turks are usually at these places with a Watch, well Armed (if near the Sea) all the time of the Corn treading. They have great quantity of Grass, but make no Hay, feeding their Horses with chopped Straw and Barley; they Litter them with Horse-dung, which being dried in the Sun, and shaken, falls asunder, and is very soft. In the Spring they feed them with green Barley, tying one of their hinder-leggs to a Stake, which they remove twice a day, keeping them to an allowance. Besides the Common Grass, they have a sort of Clover Grass, which they give them Green, after their feeding on Barley, bringing it home to their Stables. In August the common Grass is usually parched and dry, which therefore they burn, and new soon springs up in its place. The Trees in the Woods are several sorts of Oaks, Pine, Fir, wild Chesnut and wild Pear. In their Gardens they have Orange, Lemon, Citron, Pomegranate, Apricock, Peach, Plum, and Cherry-Trees; Apples and Pears they have not many, nor are they so good as usually they be with us; Cypress-trees and walnuts they are plenty. In the Plains near any Springs, are most stately Plane-trees, which are very shady. They have all sorts of Garden Herbs as we have, and great quantity of Musk-melons, Water Melons, and several sorts of Gourds. In the Month of December, they begin to make Oil, continuing it till the beginning of March, or according as the quantity of Olives is. February, March, and April, are for making Butter and Cheese, also for shearing their Sheep. May and June is the time for cutting their Corn. In June and July they are employed in gathering Mulberry Leaves to feed their Silkworms. August, September, and October, are for gathering and drying their Currants, Figgs, Raisins, Valania, Pernicoke Seed, and Tobacco; also for making their Wine and taking up their Honey and Wax. Their Oil they put into great Earthen Jars, which are made of hard Clay, well baked in Furnaces, but not glazed, which therefore will not keep Water from soaking through them. These Jars are sent to Candy, and other places for Merchandise. To preserve their Cheese they sift Earth, mix it with Salt and Water, then with it Coat over the Cheese, which keeps it cool, but makes it very Salt. A great quantity of this Cheese is yearly carried to Venice: It serves the ordinary People, who sometimes grate it upon their boiled Macaroons, and Rice, instead of Parmesan. Though the Turks drink no Wine, yet they take New Wine and boil it up to a Syrup (which they call Becmez, and we call Cute,) putting it into small Jars, they drink it mingled with Water, for this they account to be no Wine. They call new Wine Shira, and old Wine Shirab. Their Buildings are most of Bricks made of Clay, and chopped Straw, and dried in the Sun. The Foundations of the Walls are of Stone, and Lime. Few Houses are above two Story high; they are covered over with Pan Tiles. There are not many great Houses in all the Morea, the best being at Napoli, Misitha, and Corinth: Not above three deserve the Name of Seraglios (as they call Palaces.) Flesh and Fowl is plentiful, but Fish is scarce. The Air is very temperate; there is seldom any Rain from April to August. The Winter is also very moderate, and lasteth not above two Months any thing Cold: There is seldom any Snow in the Plains A Description of the CITY of ATHENS. IT is the Head City in the Province of Attica, and was once the greatest Mistress of Learning in all Europe. The Plain is about Sixteen Miles Long, and Five Broad, being surrounded with Mountains, all but towards the South, where it is washed by the Egean Sea. The Olive-trees stand so thick to the West of the City that they seem to be a Wood, reaching Six Miles in Length, and Two in Breadth. Whilst I was there, a Tahrirge (or Surveyor) came down from Constantinople to Survey the Place; he found above Fifty Thousand Olive-trees in this Plain, and other places about the City. There are several small Villages, where are very pleasant Gardens, which afford all sort of Fruit and Saleting, having Walks round them covered with Vines, of which there are two sorts; the one is in the Turkish Language called Barmak Vzumi, a long White Grape; the other Hevengh Vzumi, a round Red Grape, both which growing in very large Bunches. Of the latter Mr. Vernon weighed one Bunch which was near Four Oaks (about Ten Pound English.) These Red Grapes are not ripe till September, than they cut them off, and hang them up in their Houses for Winter store. Neither of these Two sorts grow in Vineyards. The Vine-yards are planted most betwixt the City, and the Sea. The City is now not above Three Miles about: Being Four Miles from Porto Lion, (which formerly was call Pirea) having a Castle to the South. The Houses are better built here than in any part of the Morea, most having little Courts, with high Walls, in which are Arches with Marble Pillars; few Houses above Two Story high: They also patched up with the Ruins of old Palaces, and in most Walls are abundance of old Inscriptions. The Governors are in the same manner as they be in other Cities under the Turks. The Greeks live much better here than in any other part of Turkey, (Scio excepted) being a small Commonwealth amongst themselves. They choose eight Magistrates, who adjust all differences, and appear in all Public Matters. Their Protector (at the Port) is the Grand Signors Chief Eunuch, who hath the disposing of that Government. The City is not Walled about, but has Gates at the Streets end, which every Night are shut, to keep out Privateers, who often Land and do much mischief. Here is an Archbishop whose House stands to the South West of the Town, near unto the Mount Ariopagus: He lives in great esteem amongst them. Below his Palace towards the North, stands entire the Temple of Theseus, which is a fair and large Building, all of White Marble, having a Portico about it with Pillars. The Temple is Seventy Three Foot long, and Twenty Six in Breadth: The Length of the Portico (which goes round it,) is One Hundred Twenty Three Foot: It is now a Greek Church, and Dedicated to St. George. To the South East part of the Castle are Seventeen Marble Pillars, being the remainder of One Hundred and Twenty, on which the Emperor Adrian had his Palace: And upon some of the Pillars which stand towards the East, is to be seen part of the Foundation. These Pillars are of a pure White Marble, with bluish Waves, Schollop-work, being Fifty Foot in height, and Nineteen and a half round. The Ground is very even about them, which they say was formerly Paved with Marble. Close to these Pillars Eastward, is a square Piece of Ground, which is Walled in with a low Wall, being Green: It is kept very smooth and free of Stones; at the South End close to the Wall, is a place (raised with Two Steps) about Two Foot high, almost in Form of a Throne. In the time of their Byram, the Turks come to this place, where their Emam or Priest (sitting on the raised place) Preacheth to them, showing them the Vanity of the World, the Greatness of their Emperor, and the Valour of the Ottoman Forces, concluding with a Prayer for the Grand Signior, which is answered with Three Shouts from the Auditors, with a loud Voice crying, Amen. The Castle stands on a Rock, which is high and steep, having but one way up, and three Gates to pass through into the Body of it: The Walls are much out of repair. The Situation makes it strong. This Castle stood almost in the middle of Old Athens: The Place most worth Observation in it, is the Temple of Minerva, which remains entire, being esteemed (by all who have seen it) to be one of the Most Glorious Buildings in Europe. It is all pure White Marble: The Length of the Body of the Temple is One Hundred Sixty Eight English Feet, and the Breadth Seventy One: There are Seventeen Pillars at each Side, and Eight at the Front: The Circuit of the Pillars are Nineteen Foot and a Half: The Length of the whole Temple Two Hundred and Thirty Feet. The Temple is very dark, having only some Lights to the Eastward. The Greeks did Consecrate, and Dedicated it to the Blessed Virgin. Since that, the Turks have perverted it with their Worship. The Turks have White-washed the Inside, notwithstanding it is all of pure Marble. In and about Athens, are Two Hundred Greek Churches, (most of which have been Temples) but not one quarter of them are now used. In the Plain and on most of the Hills, there are many small Chapels. The Ruins are above Six Miles about, of which the Reader may have full satisfaction by reading the Travels of Sir George Wheeler, who hath given a large and true Account of this City. Some Geographers call it Settines, which name was never known to the Inhabitants; the Turks call it Atinna, and the Greeks Athine. The Air is very good. The Soil rich. It hath a River to the South, close by the Ruins of Adrian's Palace, called Illisus or Calleroy; which is almost choked up, and in Summer is dry. The Harbour of Porto Lione is very secure from the danger of any Wind, but there is no Fortification, so that it is frequented by Pirates. In all the Villages and Country about Athens, the Inhabitants are most Albaneses; and they are here more populous than in the Morea. It affords the same Commodities: and all Provision is as reasonable, but their Wines in general are not so good. The Island of ZANT, formerly called ZACYNTHUS, Is under the Venetians, lying about 15 miles from the South West point of the Morea. The West part is all Mountains, and to the North East is another Mountain (called Scopo) between which it is very low land, so as from the Southward at Sea it appears to be two Islands. The chief Road hath the name of the Island. The Town stretcheth itself above a mile along that Bay; it is well built, with Freestone, but the Houses are low, by reason of the Earthquakes, which are very frequent. To the West, over the Town, stands the Castle, on a high and steep Hill, and is a small City in itself: The Wall is above a mile about. The Governor is a Nobleman of Venice: There is an Italian Bishop, and three Italian Churches: But the Greeks (who are the chief Inhabitants (have a Proto Papa, and all Festivals are observed according to the old stile. In the Island is above 30 Villages, and more than 60000 Souls. The Corn which grows here will not suffice above three months; but in time of Peace with the Turks, they are well supplied from the Morea, and in time of War Corn is brought from Apuglia, and other parts in the Gulf of Venice. One year with another it produceth near 10000 Tun of Wine, 200 Tun of Oil, and 2000 Tun of Currants; and may be compared, for pleasantness and richness, with any Island (of its bigness) in the World. The Currants grow on Vines, and spread themselves on the ground like other Grapes: In July they gather them, and spread them on a very smooth part of ground, where they lie until they are well dried, than they fall off from the Stalks; so are carried and put into Warehouses, where they are kept till the Merchants buy them. STRAFADA Islands. They are two small Islands which lie about 20 miles from Zant, and 30 from the Morea. On the bigger is a Monastery well built, which hath a high Tower: There is about 40 Priests of the Order of St. Basil. They work the ground, and have all sorts of Fruits and Sallating; but their supply of Bread, Oil and Wine, is brought them from Zant, where they have possessions. They never eat Flesh. When any Pirates come to molest them, they shut themselves up in the Tower of the Monastery. There is no Harbour for Ships, so as seldom any come to trouble them. PRODINO and SAPIENZA Islands Are not Inhabited, but afford secure Harbours for Shipping, especially the latter, where the Venetians often lie, to look out for Pirates of Barbary, who use to cruise about Navareene, and Modon. SERIGO, formerly called CYTHERA, Is under the Venetians, and withstood the Turks Forces which Landed there several times; the Inhabitants (who are Greeks) retired to the Castle, which is strong, yet the Turks might have taken it, but thought it not worth the loss of his men, there being no good Harbour for Shipping; nor is the Land fruitful, being most Stony. The Governor is a Nobleman of Venice. FINIS.