THE SEAMAN'S Grammar and Dictionary, Explaining all the difficult TERMS in NAVIGATION: AND THE PRACTICAL Navigator and Gunner: In Two Parts. Containing, I. Most plain and easy Directions, to Build, Rigg, Yard, and Mast any SHIP whatsoever. With the manner of Working of a SHIP in all Wethers:— And how to manage a Fight at Sea:— Also the Charge and Duty of every Officer in a Ship, and their Shares— And the use of the PETTY TALLY. II. An Abstract of the Art of GUNNERY, (or Shooting in great ORDNANCE and MORTER-PIECES:) Wherein the Principles of that Art are plainly Taught both by Arithmetical Calculation, and by TABLES ready Calculated— With the Compositions for the making of several FIREWORKS useful in War both at SEA and LAND.— And an Appendix how by several Geometrical ways to take Heights, Depths, and Distances, Accessible or Inaccessible. By Captain JOHN SMITH, Sometimes Governor of Virgnia, and Admiral of New England: Now much Amplified and Enlarged, with variety of Experiments, since his Time, made by several Experienced NAVIGATORS and GUNNERS. LONDON; Printed, and are to be Sold by Randal Tailor near Stationer's Hall, MDCXCI. THE PRINTER TO THE READER, And all worthy Adventurers by Sea, and wellwishers to NAVIGATION. THere hath been much already written concerning the Art of War by Land, but nothing concerning the same at Sea; yet perceiving the present occasion to require something of that kind, I have adventured to bring again to remembrance, those excellent Precepts and Directions, long since published by Captain John Smith, which were almost worn out by time, and herein, if my desire to do good hath transported me beyond myself, I entreat your excuse, and take for requital this bundle of many Ages Observations: which although they be not so punctually compiled as the Author could have wished, and it may be you expect, yet at present they cannot be much amended; If any will bestow that pains, I shall think him my friend, and honour his endeavours. And now (since it was the desire of the Experienced Author, to have this his Treatise amplified and made more useful,) I have, in this Edition, caused to be added, An Alphabetical Table of the Names of all the Parts or Members of a Ship, and its Apurtenances; with the number of the Page wherein they are at large Explained: And also, another Alphabetical Table, wherein the principal Sea-Terms used in working of a Ship in all Winds and Weathers, and also in a Fight at Sea, are largely discoursed and explained. And to make this Treatise, yet more useful for Sea-service (especially in time of War) I have caused to be added also, an Abstract of the Art of Practical Gunnery; Wherein the Principles of that Art are plainly Taught both by Arithmetical Calculation, and by new Tables ready Calculated. Together with the manner of Shooting in Morter-Pieces; The making of Granados, Petards and other Fireworks useful in War, both at Sea and Land: And by way of Appendix, several Geometrical ways, to take Heights, Depths, and Distances, accessible or inaccessible. All which are freely communicated for the benefit of his Country, and the good of Navigators and Gunners: And as I shall find these Essays of mine accepted, I shall be encouraged farther to accommodate them with the Mathematical part of Navigation. B. N. THE CONTENTS Of the Grammar. OF Docks and their definitions, and what belongs to them, Chap. 1. Folio 1 How to build a Ship, with the definition of all the principal names of every part of her, and her principal timbers, also how they are fixed one to another, and the reasons of their use, Chap. 2. 2 How to proportion the Masts and Yards for a Ship, by her Beam and Keel Ch. 3. 15 The names of all the Masts, Tops and Yards belonging to a Ship. Chap. 4. 17 How all the Tackling and Rigging of a Ship is made fast one to another, with the Names and Reasons of their use. Chap. 5. 18 What doth belong to the Boats and Skiff, with the definition of all those thirteen Ropes, which are only properly called Ropes belonging to a Ship or a Boat, and their use. Chap. 6. 26 The names of all sorts of Anchors, Cables and Sails, and how they bear their proportions, with their use. Also how the Ordnance should be placed, and the Goods stowed in a Ship. Chap. 7. 29 The charge and duty of the Captain of a Ship, and every Office and Officer in a man of War. Chap. 8. 34 Proper Sea-terms for dividing the Company at Sea, and steering, failing and moaring a Ship in fair weather or in a storm. Chap. 9 37 Proper Sea terms for the Winds, Ebbs, Floods, and Eddies, with their definitions, and an estimate of the depth of the Sea, by the height of the Hills and largeness of the Earth. Chap. 10. 46 Proper Sea-terms belonging to the good or bad condition of Ships, how to find them and amend them. Chap. 11. 52 Considerations for a Sea-Captain in the choice of his Ship, and in placing his Ordnance: In giving Chase, Boarding, and entering a man of War like himself, or defending a Merchantman. Chap. 12. 54 How to manage a Fight at Sea, with the proper terms in a Fight largely expressed, and the ordering a Navy at Sea. Chap. 13. 59 How they divide their shares in a man of War, what Books and Instruments are fit for a Seaman, with divers advertisements for young Gentlemen that intent to follow the Sea, and the use of the Petty Tally. Chap. 14. 63 An Alphabetical Table of the Names of all the Parts or Members of a Ship, and its Appurtenances, with the Number of the Page in which the Term, (or Word) there formed, is Explained at Large. Chap. 15 67 Another Alphabetical Table, Explaining all the Principal Sea Terms used in work of a Ship, in all Winds and Weathers. Chap. 16. 74 THE CONTENTS Of Gunnery. WHerein is declared the Names of all sorts of Ordnance, and their Appurtenances, with an Explanation of their proper Terms; and divers Observations concerning Shooting in them. Chap. 1. Folio 85 How a Gunner ought to be Qualified. Chap. 2. 90 Of such Necessary Implements and Instruments as a Gunner that hath charge of Guns or Artillery ought to be furnished with. Chap. 3. 91 Cautions that a Gunner ought to observe before he fire his Gun. Chap. 4. 92 Of Gunpowder, and how it hath been made from time to time, and how it is made at this present. Chap. 5. 93 Of the Names of the several parts or members of a Piece of Ordnance Chap. 6. 93 Of the several Pieces of Ordnance now in use. Chap. 7. 95 How to find the Diameter of any Round Shot or Bullet, by knowing the Circumference: Or, By having the Circumference of a Shot, to find the Diameter. Chap. 8. 97 A Table showing how to find the Diameter of any Circle or Ring of a Gun not exceeding 54 Inches: Of excellent use for the easy and exact finding of the length of the Dispart of any Gun: As also of the Diameter of any Shot or Bullet: without Callopers, and also of Granado-Shells. Chap. 9 100 Concerning the Disparting of any Piece of Ordnance, and how to find the length of the Dispart. Chap. 10. 103 How to know whether a Piece of Ordnance be truly bored or not, when it is in its Carriage: and lying Horizontally. Chap. 11. 106 Concerning Guns that are not truly bored; How to know what quantity of Powder must be allowed for their Loading. Chap. 12. 108 How to discover what Cracks, Flaws, or Honeycombs are in any Piece of Ordnance. Chap. 13. 109 Concerning the Weight of Iron-shot, and Granado-shels. Chap. 14. 110 Concerning the following Table of Cube-Roots. Chap. 15. 114 Concerning the Proportion of the Weights of Iron, Led, Stone, etc. And how by knowing the Weight of one Shot of Lead, to find the Weight of another of the like Diameter of Iron or Stone. Chap. 16. 124 Concerning Gunpowder, and to find what quantity will fill any Granado-Shell or Cartridge. Chap. 17. 126 Concerning the Allowance of Powder for the Charge of any well Fortified Gun either Brass or Iron, according to the Weight thereof, from one hundred to ninety hundred Weight of Metal. Chap. 18. 128 Concerning Cartridges, how to make them, and fit them, fitting for the Boar, or Chamber of any Piece of Ordnance. Chap. 19 130 Concerning Carriages for Pieces of Ordnance, and how they should be made. Chap. 20. 133 Concerning Shooting in great Ordnance, and how to Load your Gun Artificially, either with Powder or Cartredge. Chap. 21. 134 How to give Level with a Piece of Ordnance to make a Shot at any mark within Point blank. Chap. 22. Showing how to amend a Shot, which (by some accident) doth carry over, under, or wide of the Mark intended. Chap. 23. 135 Concerning a Gunner's Ruler, for the Elevating of any Piece of Ordnance to any degree of Mounture, supplying the use of the Gunner's Quadrant. Chap. 24 129 A Table, and the Use thereof, whereby you may give Level to a Piece of Ordnance, without the Gunners Rule or Quadrant, to any degree of Mounture under eleven degrees. Chap. 25 133 Concerning Shooting at Randon. Chap. 26. 135 How you may make a good at your Enemy's Light in a dark night. Chap. 27. 139 How to make a perfect Shot in a dark night, at any mark (within the reach of the Piece) that you can see in the day time. Chap 28. 139 How to make a good Shot at a Company of Soldiers passing by; or at a Ship sailing up a River. Chap. 29. 140 Some Reasons, Why one and the same Piece of Ordnance at the same Elevation, charged with the same quantity of Powder, and directed to the self same Mark, and discharged several times, shall have different Rainges. Chap. 30. 140 Concerning Shooting in a Morter-Piece, and of several Fire-Works, both for Sea and Land Service. Chap. 31. 142 The Measuring of Heights, Depths, and Distances, etc. 152 THE SEAMAN'S GRAMMAR and DICTIONARY; OR THE PRACTICAL NAVIGATOR and GUNNER. In Two Books CHAP. I. Of Docks, and their definitions. A DOCK is a great pit or pond, or Creek by a Harbour side, made convenient A dry-Dock. to work in, with two great flood gates built so strong and close, that the Dock may be dry till the ship be built or repaired, and then being opened, let in the water to float and launch her, and this is called a dry-Dock. A wet-Dock A wet-Dock. is any place where you may hale in a ship into the oze out of the tides way, where she may dock herself. A Cradle is A Cradle. a frame of timber, made along a ship, or the side of a Galley by her billidge, for the more ease and safety in launching, much used in Turkey, Spain, and Italy. And the Stocks are The Stocks. certain framed posts, much of the same nature upon the shore to build a Pinnace, a Catch, a Frigate, or Boat, etc. To those Docks for building belongs their Wood-yards, with Saw-pits and all sorts of timber; but the Masts and Yards are chained together in some greater water to keep them from notting, and in season: Also a Crab is necessary, Crab. which is an Engine of wood of three claws placed on the ground in the nature of a Capstern, for the launching of ships or heaving them into the Dock. CHAP. II. How to build a Ship, with the definitions of the names of every part of her Principal Timbers, and how they are fixed one to another, with the reasons of their use. THe first and lowest Timber in a ship is the Keel, to The Keel. which is fastened all the rest; this is a great tree or more, hewn to the proportion of her burden, laid by a right line in the bottom of the Dock, or Stocks. At the one end is Skarfed into it the Stem, which is a great timber wrought compassing, and all the butt-ends of the The Stem. planks forwards are fixed to it. The Stern post is another The Stern. great Timber, which is let into the Keel at the other end somewhat sloping, and from it doth rise the two fashion-pieces The fashion-pieces. like a pair of great horns, to those are fastened all the planks that reach to the after end of the Ship, but before you use any planks, they lay the Rungs, called floor The Rungs. timbers, or ground timbers, thwart the keel: through those you cut your Limberholes to bring the water to the well for The Limber-holes. the pump, the use of them is when the Ship is built to draw in them a long hair rope, by pulling it from Stern to Stern, to scour them, and keep them clean from choking. Those ground timbers do give the Floor of the Ship, being The Floor. strait, saving at the ends they begin to compass, and there they are called the Rungheads, and doth direct the Rungheads. Sweep. Mould. Skarfing. Sweep or Mould of the Foot-hooks and Navel timbers, for there doth begin the compass and bearing of the Ship, those are Skarfed into the ground Timbers, which is one piece of wood let into another, or so much wood cut away from the one as from the other, for when any of those Timbers are not long enough of themselves, they are skarfed in this manner, to make two or three as one: Those next the Keel are called the ground Foot-hooks, the other the upper Foot-hooks; but first lay your Keeleson. over your floor Timbers, which is another long tree like the Keel, and this lying Foot-hooks. Keeleson. within as the other without, must be fast bound together with strong iron bolts thorough the Timbers and all, and on those are all the upper works raised, when the Foot-hooks are skarfed as is said, and well bolted, when they are planked up to the Orlop they make the Ship Howle, and those Timbers Howle: Ribs. Sleepers. in general are called the Ships Ribs, because they represent the carcase of any thing that hath Ribs. The Sleepers run before and after one each side the Keeleson, on the floor well bolted to the Foot-hooks, which being thus bound do strengthen Spurkits. each other. The Spurkits are the spaces betwixt the Timbers alongst the Ship side in all parts, but them in Howle below the Sleepers, are broad boards which they take up to clear the Spurkits, if any thing get betwixt the Timbers. The Garbord is the first plank next the Keel on the outside, The Garbord Garbord-strak-Rising-timbers. the Garbord-Strake is the first seam next the Keel, your Rising timbers are the hooks, or ground timbers and foot-hooks placed on the Keel, and as they rise by little and little, so doth the Run of the Ship from the floor, which The Run. is that part of the Ship under water, which comes narrower by degrees from the floor timbers along the stern post, called the Ships way aftward, for according to her run she will steer well or ill, by reason of the quickness or slowness of the water coming to the Rudder: Now all those planks under water, as they rise and are joined one end to Planks. another, the fore end is called the Butt-end in all Ships: but in great Ships they are commonly most carefully bolted, for But-ends. if one of those ends should spring, or give way, it would be a great troublesome danger to stop such a leak, the other parts of those planks are made fast with good Tree nails and Trunnions of well seasoned Timber, thorough the Timbers Tree-nails. Trunnions. or Ribs, but those planks that are fastened into the Ship stern are called Whoodings. The gathering of those works upon the Ships quarter under Whoodings. water is called the Tuck, if it lie too low it makes her The Tuck. have a fat quarter, and hinders the quick passage of the water to the Rudder; if too high, she must be laid out in that part, else she will want bearing for her after-works. The Transome Transome. is a Timber lies thwart the stern, betwixt the two fashion pieces, and doth lay out the breadth of the Ship at the Buttocks, which is her breadth from the Tuck upwards, Buttocks. and according thereto her breadth or narrowness, we say she hath a narrow or broad Buttock: The fashion-pieces before spoken of, are the two outmost timbers on either side the stern, excepting the Counters. The Ships Rake is so much of her Hull as hangs over both ends of the Keell, so much Rake. The Hull. as is forward is said, she rakes so much forward, and so in like manner aftward; by the Hull is meant, the full bulk or body of a Ship without masts or any rigging from the Stem to the Stern: The Rake forward is near half the length of the Keell, and for the Rake aftward about the forepart of her Rake forward, but the fore Rake is that which gives the Ship good way, and makes her keep a good wind, but if she have not a full Bow, it will make her pitch her head much into the Sea; if but a small Rake forward, the Sea will meet her so fast upon the Lowes, she will make small way, and if her Stern be upright as it were, she is called Bluffe, or Bluff-headed. A Ship Billage is the breadth of the Bluffe. Bluffe-headed Billage. floor when she doth lie aground, and Billage-water is that which cannot come to the pump, we say also she is bilged when she strikes on a Rock, an Anchors Floor, or any thing that breaks her Planks or Timbers to spring a Leak. When you have berthed or brought her up to the Planks, Planks. which are those thick Timbers which goeth fore and aft on each side, whereon doth lie the beams of the first Orlop, Orlop-Beams. which is the first floor to support the Planks, doth cover the Howle, those are great cross-timbers, that keeps the Ships-sides asunder, the main beam is ever next the main Mast, where is the Ships greatest breadth, the rest from this is called the first, second, third, fourth, etc. forward or aftward Beams. Great Ships have a tire of Beams under the Orlop, whereon lies no Deck, and great posts and binder's called Riders Riders. from them to the Keel in Howle only to strengthen all. But the beams of the Orlop is to be bound at each end with sufficient Knees, which is a crooked piece of wood bowed like Knees. a Knee, that binds the Beams and Foot-hooks, being bolted together, some stand right up and down, some along the Ship, and are used about all the Decks, some sawed or hewed to that proportion, but them which grow naturally to that fashion are the best. Lay the Orlop with good Plank, according to her proportion, so level as may be, is the best in a Man of War, because all the Ports may be of such equal height, so that Ports. Beds. every Piece may serve any Port, without making any Beds or Platforms to raise them, but first bring up your work as before to the second Deck or Orlop, and by the way you may cut your number of Portholes according to the greatness of your Ship; by them fasten your King-bolts, for the Ring-bolts. Tackles of your Ordnance you use Ringbolts also for bringing the Planks and Walls to the Ship side, and Setbolts for Setbolts. forcing the Works and Planks together: Clinch-bolts are Clinch-bolts. clinched with a riveting hammer for drawing out. But Rag-bolts are so jaggered that they cannot be drawn out. Rag-bolts. Forelock-bolts Fore-lock-bolts hath an eye at the end, whereinto a Forelock of Iron is driven to keep it from starting back. Fendbolds are beat into the outside of a Ship, with the long head Fend-bolts. to save her sides from galling against other Ships. Drive-bolts Drive-bolts. is a long piece of Iron to drive out a Tree-nail, or any such things, besides divers other so useful that without them and long Iron-spikes and Nails nothing can be well done; yet I have known a Ship built, hath sailed to and again over She was built of Cedar. the main Ocean, which had not so much as a Nail of Iron in her, but only one Bolt in her Keel. Now your risings are above the first Orlop as the Clamps Clamps. are under it, which is long thick Planks like them, fore and aft on both sides, under the ends of the Beams and Timbers of the second Deck or Orlop, or the third Deck or Orlop, or the third Deck which is never called by the name of Orlop, and yet they are all but Decks; also the half-Deck and Decks. A half Deck. A Quarter-Deck. A flush Deck. Quarter Deck, whereon the Beams and Timbers bear, are called risings. A flush Deck is when from Stem to Stern, it lies upon a right line fore and aft, which is the best for a Man of War, both for the men to help and succour one another as for the using of their arms, or remounting any dismounted Piece, because all the Ports on that Deck are on equal height, which cannot be without Beds and much trouble, where the A Cambered Deck. To sink a Deck To raise a Deck. Deck doth camber or lie compassing. To sink a Deck is a to lay it lower, to raise a Deck to put it higher, but have a care you so cut your Portholes, that one piece lie not right over another for the better bringing them to your mark. The half Deck is from the main Mast to the Steerage, and the Quarter-Deck from that to the Master's Cabin called the Round House, which is the utmost of all, but you must understand all those Works are brought up together, as near equally as may be from bend to bend, or wail to Bend, or wail. wail, which are the outmost Timbers on the Ship-sides, and are the chief strength of her sides, to which the Foot-hooks, Beams and Knees, are bolted, and are called the first, second, and third Bend; but the Chain-waile is a broad timber set out amongst them, a little above where the Chains and Chain-waile. Shrouds are fastened together, to spread the Shrouds the wider, the better to succour the Masts. Thus the Sides and Decks are wrought till you come at the Gunwaile, which Gun wail. is the upmost wail, goeth about the upmost strake or seam of the upmost Deck about the Ships waste, and the Ships The Ships Quarters. Quarter is from the main Mast aftward. Culber-tailed is letting one Timber into another, in such Culver-tailed, Carlings. sort that they cannot slip out, as the Carling ends are fixed in the Beams, and Carlings are certain Timbers lieth along the Ship from beam to beam, on those the ledges do rest, whereunto the Planks of the Decks are fastened. The Carling-Knees Carling-knees. are also timbers comes thwart the Ship from the sides of the Hatches way, betwixt the two Masts, and bears up the Deck on both sides, and on their ends lieth the comings Commings. of the Hatches, which are those Timbers and Planks which bears them up higher than the Decks, to keep the water from running down at the Hatches; also they fit Loopholes Loopholes. in them for the close fights, and they are likewise a great ease for men to stand upright if the Decks below. The Hatches way is when they are open where the Goods are Hatches way. lowered that way right down into the howl, and the Hatches are like Trap doors in the midst of the Decks, before the Mainmast, by certain Rings, to take up or lay down at your pleasure. A Scuttle hatch is a little Hatch doth cover a little A Scuttle. Square-hole we call the Scuttle, where but one man alone can go down into the Ship, they are in divers places of the Ship whereby men pass from Deck to Deck, and there is also small Scuttles Grated, to give light to them betwixt Decks, and for the smoke of the Ordnance to pass away by. The Ramshead is a great Block wherein is three shivers, into Ramshead. which are passed the Halyards, and at the end of it in a hole is reved the ties, and this is only belonging to the fore-end Main Halyard; to this belong the fore-Knight, and The fore-Knight, The main-Knight. the main-Knight, upon the second Deck fast bolted to the Beams. They are two short thick pieces of wood, commonly carved with the head of a man upon them, in those are four shivers apiece, three for the Halyards, and one for the toprope to run in: and Knevels are small pieces of Knevels. Wood nailed to the inside of the Ship, to belay the Sheats and Racks unto. The Capstaine is a great piece of Wood, stands upright Capstaine. upon the Deck, abaft the main Mast, the foot standing in a step upon the lower Deck, and is in the nature of a Windis, to wind or weigh up the Anchors, Sails, Tap-masts, Ordnance, or any thing; it is framed in divers Squares, with holes thorough them, thorough which you put your Capstain Bars, for as many men as can stand at them to thrust it about, Capstain-Bars. and is called manning the Capstain. The main body of it is called the Spindle. The Whelps are short pieces The Spindle. Whelps. of wood made fast to it; to keep the Cable from coming too high in the turning about. The Paul is a short piece of Iron made fast to the Deck, resting upon the Whelps to keep Paul. the Capstain from recoiling, which is dangerous, but in great Ships they have two, the other standing in the same manner betwixt the foremast and the main, to heave upon the Jeare-rope, and is called the jeare-capstain, to strain any Rope, Jeer Capstain or hold off by, when we weigh Anchor, to heave a head, or upon the Viol, which is when an Anchor is in stiff ground we cannot weigh it, or the Sea goeth so high the main Capstain cannot purchase in the Cable, than we take a Hawser opening one end, and so puts into it Nippers some seven or eight fathom distant from each other, wherewith we bind the Hawser to the Cable, and so brings it to the Jeer Capstain to heave upon it, and this will purchase more than the main Capstain can. The Viol is fastened together at both The Viol. ends with an eye or two, with a Wall-knot, and seized together. A Windas is a Square-piece of Timber like a A Windas. Role before the fore Castle in small Ships, and forced about with handspikes, for the same use as is the Capstain. What are the parts of a Pump you may see in every The Pump. The Brake. The Can. place, the handle we call the Brake, the Pumps Can is a great Can we pour water into Pumps to make it pump. The Daile is a Trough wherein the water doth run over The Daile. Chained. Pumps. the Docks: But in great Ships they use chained Pumps which will go with more ease, and deliver more water. The Dutch men use a Burr Pump by the Shipside, wherein is A Bur-Pump. only a long staff with a Burr at the end, like a Gunner's Sponge, to pump up the Billage water, that by reason of the breadth of the Ships floor cannot come to the Well: In pumping they use to take spells, that is, fresh men to relieve them, and count how many strokes they pump each watch, whereby they know if the Ship be staunch, or tied, or how her Leaks increase. The Pump sucks is when the water being The Pumpsuck. out, it draws up nothing but froth and wind. They have also a little Pump made of a Cane, a little piece of hollow wood or Latin like an Elder-gun, called a Bare Pump, A Bare-Pump. to Pump the Beer or Water out of the Cask, for at Sea we use no Taps, and then stave the Cask to make more room, and packeth the Pipe staves or boards up as close as may be in other Cask till they use them. The Skuppers are little holes close to all the Decks thorough The Skupper. the Ships sides, whereat the water doth run out when you pump or wash the Decks: the Skupper-leathers Skupper-leathers. are nailed over those holes upon the lower Deck to keep out the Sea from coming in, yet give they way for it to run out: Skupper-nails are little short ones with broad Skupper-nails. heads, made purposely to nail the Skupper-leathers, and the coats of Masts and Pumps. The Waist is that part of The Waist. the Ship betwixt the main Mast and the Forecastle, and the Waist-boards are set up in the Ships Waist, betwixt the Waist-boards. Waist-trees. Gunwaile and the Waist-trees, but they are most used in Boats, set up alongst their sides to keep the Sea from breaking in. There are usually three Ladders in a Ship: the entering The entering-Ladder. Ladder is in the Waist, made formally of wood, and another out of the Gallery made of Ropes to go into the Boat Gallery-Ladder. Boultspret-Ladder. by in foul weather, and the third at the Beak-head, made fast over the Boultspret to get upon it, only used in great Ships. It were not amiss now to remember the Forecastle, The Forecastle. being as useful a place as the rest, this is the forepart of the Ship above the Decks over the Bow, there is a broad Bow Bow. and a narrow Bow, so called according to the broadness or the thinness: the Bow is the broadest part of the Ship before, compassing the Stem to the Loufe, which reacheth so far Louse. as the Bulk head of the Fore castle extendeth. Against the Bow is the first breach of the Sea, if the Bow be too broad, she will seldom carry a bone in her mouth, or cut a feather, Cut a Feather. that is, to make a some before her: where a well bowed Ship so swiftly presseth the water, as that it foameth, and in the dark night sparkleth like fire. If the Bow be too narrow, as before is said, she pitcheth her head into the Sea, so that the mean is the best if her after-way be answerable. The Houses are those great round holes before, under the Beak-head, Hauses. where commonly is used the Castles when you come to an Anchor, the bold or high Hause is the best, for when they lie low in any great Sea, they will take in very much water, the which to keep out, they build a circle of Plank either abaft or before the main Mast called the Manger: and a Hause-plug at Sea, now the Forecastle doth cover Manger. all those being built up like a half Deck, to which is fixed the Beak-head, and the Prów is the Deck abaft the forecastle, Prow. whereon lieth the Prow pieces. The Beak head is without the Ship before the forecastle, supported by the main knee, fastened into the Stem, The Beak-head. all painted and carved as the Stern, and of great use, as well for the grace and countenance of the Ship, as a place for men to ease themselves in. To it is fastened the Choler of the main stay, and the fore tacks there brought aboard: also the standing for rigging and trimming the Sprete-sailgeare, under the midst of it is the Comb, which is a little Combe. piece of wood with two holes in it to bring the fore tacks aboard. The Bits are two great pieces of Timber, and the Bits. Crospiece. Crospiece goeth through them, they are ordinarily-placed abaft the Manger in the Ships loose, to belay the Cable thereto when you ride at Anchor: Their lower parts are fastened to the Riders, but the middle part in great Ships are bolted to two great Beams cross to the Bows, and yet in extraordinary storms we are glad to make fast the Cable to the main Mast for strengthening of the Bits and fafeip of the Bows, which have in great storms been torn from the Ships. The David is a short piece of Timber, at the end David. whereof in a notch they hang a block in a strap called the Fish-block, by which they hale up the flock of the Anchor Fish block. to the Ships Bow, it is put out betwixt the Cat and the Loof, and to be removed when you please. The Cat is also Cat. a short piece of timber aloft, right over the Hause; in the end it hath two shivers in a block, wherein is reaved a Rope, to which is fastened a great hook of Iron, to trice up the Anchor from the Hause to the top of the Forecastle. A Bulks-head is like a ceiling or a wall of boards thwart A Bulks-head. the Ship, as the Gun-room, the great Cabin, the bread room, the quarter-Deck, or any other such division; but them which doth make close the Forecastle, and the half-Deck, the Mariners call the Cubbridge-heads, wherein are placed Cubbridge-head. murderers, and abaft Falcons, Falconets, or Robinits to clear the Decks fore and aft so well as upon the Ships sides, to defend the Ship and offend an enemy. Sockets are the Sockets. holes wherein the Pintels of the Murderers or Fowlers go into. The hollow Arching betwixt the lower part of the Gallery and the Transome, is called the lower Counter; Low Counter. Upper Counter the upper Counter is from the Gallery to the Arch of the round House, and the Brackets are little carved Knees to Brackets. support the Galleries. The Stearage room, is before the great Cabin, where he The Stearage. Great Cabin. that steereth the Ship doth always stand, before him is a square Box nailed together with Wooden Pins, called a Bittacle, because Iron-nails would attract the Compass, Bittacle. this is built so close, that the Lamp or Candle only showeth light to the Stearage, and in it always stands the Compass; The Compass. which every one knows is a round Box, and in the midst of the bottom a sharp Pin called a Centre whereon the Fly doth play, which is a round piece of Pasteboard, with a small wire under it touched with the Loadstone, in the midst of it is a little brass Cap that doth keep it levelly upon the Centre. On the upper part is painted 32 points of the Compass covered with Glass to keep it from dust, breaking, or the wind; this Box doth hang in two or three brass Circles, so fixed they give such way to the moving of the Ship that still the Box will stand steady; there is also a dark Compass, and a Compass for the variation, yet they are but as A dark Compass. A Compass for Variation. The Travas. the other, only the dark Compass hath the Points black and white, and the other only touched for the true North and South. Upon the Bittacle is also the Travas, which is a little round board full of holes upon Lines like the Compass, upon which by the removing of a little stick they keep an account, how many Glasses (which are but half-hours) they steer upon every point. The Whip-staffe is that piece The Whip-staffe. of wood like a strong staff the Steersman or Helmsmen hath always in his hand going through the Rowl, and then The Roll. made fast to the tiler with a Ring. The tiler is a strong piece of wood made fast to the Rudder, which is a great timber somewhat like a Plank, The tiler. Rudder. made according to the burden of the Ship, and hung at the Stern upon Hooks and Hinges, they call Pintels and Pintels. Gudgeons, or Rudder-Irons. The Gun-room. Cat-holes. Gudgeons, or Rudder-irons. The tiler playeth in the Gun-room over the Ordnances by the Whip staff; whereby the Rudder is so turned to and fro as the Helmesman pleaseth, and the Cat-holes are over the Ports, right with the Capstain as they can, to heave the Ship a stern by a Cable or a Hauser called a Stern-fast. On each side the Steerage-room are divers Cabins, as also in the great Cabin, the quarter Deck, and the Round-house, with many convenient Seats or Lockers to put any thing in, as in little Cupboards. Lockers. The Bread-room is commonly under the Gun-room, The Bread-room. Cook-room. well dried or plated. The Cook room where they dress their Victuals may be placed in divers places of the Ship, as sometimes in the Hold, but that oft spoileth the victuals by reason of the heat, but commonly in Merchantmen it is the Forecastle, especially being contrived in Furnaces; besides in chase their Stern is that part of the Ship Stern. they most use in fight, but in a Man of War they fight most with their Prow, and it is very troublesome to the use of his Ordnance, and very dangerous lying over the Powder room, some do place it over the Hatches way, but that as the Steward's room are ever to be contrived according to the Ships employment, etc. Calking is beating Okum Calking. Okum. into every seam or betwixt Plank, and Plank, and Okum is old Ropes torn in pieces like Towze Match, or Hurds of Flax, which being close beat into every seam with a Calking-Iron and a Mallet, which is a hammer of wood Calking-Iron. Paying. and an Iron chissel, being well Paid over with hot pitch, doth make her more tied than it is possible by joining Plank to Plank. Graving is only under water, a white Graving. mixture of Tallow, Soap and Brimstone; or Train-oil, Rosin, and Brimstone boiled together, is the best to preserve her calking, and make her glib or slippery to pass the water; and when it is decayed by weeds, or Barnacles, Barnacles, or Worms. which is a kind of fish like a long red worm, will eat thorough all the Planks if she be not sheathed, which is as casing the Hull under water with Tar, and Hair, close covered over with thin boards fast nailed to the Hull, which though the Worm pierce, she cannot endure the Tar; Breaming her, is but washing or burning of all the filth Broming or Breaming. Carcene. with reeds or broom, either in a dry-dock or upon her Careene; which is, to make her so light as you may bring her to lie on the one side so much as may be in the calmest water you can, but take heed you overset her not; and this is the best way to breame Ships of great Burden, or those have but foursharp Flores for fear of bruising or oversetting Parsling Parsling. is most used upon the Decks and half Decks; which is, to take a list of Canvas so long as the seam is you would parsle, being first well calked, then pour hot pitch upon it, and it will keep out the water from passing the seams. There remains nothing now as I can remember to the building the Hull of the Ship, nor the definition of her most proper terms, but only feeling the Cabins and such other parts as you please, and to bind an end with all things fitting for the Sea, as you may read in the Covenants betwixt the Carpenter and the Owner, which are thus; If you would have a Ship built of 400 Tuns, she requires a plank of 4 inches: if 300 Tuns, 3 inches: small Ships 2 inches, but none less. For clamps, middle bands, and sleepers, they be all of six inch plank for binding within. The rest for the sparring up of the works of square thre● inch plank. Lay the beams of the Orlope, if she be 400 Tuns at ten foot deep in howl, and all the beams to be bound with two knees at each end, and a stardard knee at every beams end upon the Orlope, all the Orlope to be laid with square three inch plank, and all the planks to be tree-nailed to the beams. Six foot should be between the beams of the Deck and Orlope, and ten po●ts on each side upon the lower Orlope, all the binding between them should be with three inch or two inch-plank, and the upper Deck should be laid with so many beams as are fitting, with knees to bind them, laying that Deck with spruce Deal of thirty foot long; the sap cut of, and two inches thick, for it is better then, any other. Then for the Captain's Cabin or great Cabin, the Steerage, the half Deck, the Round-house, the Forecastle, and to bind an end with the Capstern and all things fitting for the Sea, the Smith's work, the carving, joining, and painting excepted, are the principal things I remembered to be observed: for a Charter-party betwixt the Merchant, the Master, and the Owner, you have Precedents of all sorts in most Scriveners shops. CHAP. III. How to proportion the Masts and Yards, for a Ship, by her Beam and Keel. WHen a Ship is built, she should be masted, wherein A Ship over-masted. is a great deal of experience to be used so well as art; for if you Over mast her, either in length or bigness, she will lie too much down by a wind, and labour too much a hull, and that is called a Taunt-mast, Tauntmasted. Under-masted. but if either too small or too short, she is Under-masted or low-masted, and cannot bear so great a sail as should give her her true way. For a man of war, a well ordered Taunt-mast is best, but for a long voyage, a short-mast will bear more Canvas, and is less subject to bear by the board: Their Rules are divers, because no Artist can build a Ship so truly to proportion, neither set her Masts, but by the trial of her condition, they may be impaired or amended: An example. suppose a Ship of 300 Tuns be 29 foot at the Beam, if her main mast be 24 inches diameter, the length of it must be 24 yards, for every inch in thickness is allowed a yard in length, and the foremast 22 inches in thickness, must be 22 yards in length; your Bowle-spret both in length and thickness must be equal to the foremast, the Mizzen 17 yards in length, and 17 inches diameter. But the Rule most used is to take the ⅘ parts of the The rule most used. breadth of the Ship, and multiply that by three, it will give you so many foot as your Mainmast should be in length, the bigness or thickness will bear it also, allowing an inch for a yard; but if it be A made-mast, or arme-mast, that is A made Mast, or an arm Mast. greater than one Tree, it must be more; for example, suppose the Ships breadth 30 foot, four fifths of 30 foot are 24 foot, so you find the main Mast must be 24 yards long, for every yard is 3 foot 24 inches thorough, allowing an inch to every yard. The foremast is to be in length ⅘ of the main Mast, which will be 20 yards wanting one ⅘ part of a yard, and 20 inches thorough. The Boultspret must ever be equal with the foremast. The Misen-Mast half the length of the Mainmast, which will be 12 yards long, and 12 inches diameter. Now as you take the proportion of the Mast from the Beam or breadth of the Ship, so do you the length of the yards from the Keel. These Masts have each their Steps in the Ship, and their The Steps. Partners. Partners at every Dock where thorough they pass to the Keel, being strong Timbers bolted to the Beams in circling the Masts, to keep them steady in their steps fast wedged for rowing; yet some Ships will not sail so well as when it doth play a little, but that is very dangerous in foul weather. Their Coats are pieces of tarred Canvas, or a Tarpawling Cotes. Tarpawling. put about them and the Rudder to keep the water out. At the top of the fore Mast and mainmast are spliced Cheeks, Cheeks. or thick clamps of wood, thorough which are in each two holes called the Hounds, wherein the Ties do run to hoist The Hounds. the yards, but the Topmast hath but one hole or Hound, and one tye. Every Mast also hath a Cap if a top; which The Cap. is a piece of square Timber with a round hole in it to receive, the top Masts or Flag staff, to keep them steady and strong, lest they be born by the board in a stiffe-gale. The Crosse-trees Crosse-trees. are also at the head of the Masts, one let into another cross, and strongly bolted with the Tressel-trees to keep Tressel trees. up the top-Masts which are fastened in them, and those are at the tops of each Masts; all the Masts stand upright but the Boultspret which lieth along over the Beak-head, and that Timber it resteth on is called the Pillow. Now Pillow. An example of the Yards by the Keel. for the yards, suppose the Ship be 76 foot at the Keel, her main yard must be 21 yards in length, and in thickness but 17 inches. The fore-yard 19 yards long, and 15 inches diameter or thick. The spretsail yard 16 yards long, and but 9 inches thick, and your Misen-yard so long as the Mast, the Top-yards bears half proportion to the main, and Fore-yard, and the Top-gallants, the half to them, but this rule is not absolute, for if your Masts be taunt, your Yards must be the shorter; if a low Mast, the longer: but this is supposed the best, to have the main Yard ⅚ parts of her Keel in length: the top-Yard ⅘ of the main-Yard; and the main-Yard for bigness ¼ parts of an inch, for a yard in length. The length of the fore-Yard ⅘ of the main Yard: the crossjack-Yard and Spretsail Yard to be of a length, but you must allow the Missen-Yard and Spretsail Yard ½ inch of thickness to a yard in length. But to give a true Arithmetical and Geometrical proportion for the building of all sorts of Ships, were they all built after one mould, as also of their Masts, Yards, Cables, Gordage, and Sails, were all the stuff of like goodness, a methodical rule as you see might be projected; but their lengths, breadths, depths, rakes and burdens are so variable and different, that nothing but experience can possibly teach it. CHAP. IU. The names of all the Masts, Tops, and Yards belonging to a Ship. THe Boul-spret, the Spretsail-Yard, the Spretsail-Top-mast, the Spret-sail-Top sailyard, the foremast, the fore-Yard, the fore-Top-mast, the fore-Top-sail-Yard, the fore-Top-gallant-Mast, the foretop gallant-sail-Yard, Cotes, Wouldings, Gromits, and Staples for all Yards. The mainmast, the main-Yard, the maintop. The main-Top-Mast, the main Topsail-Yard. The Top-gallant Mast. The main-Top-gallant-sail Yard. The Truck is a square piece of wood at the top, wherein you put the Flag-staff. The Mizzen, the Misen-Yard, the Mizzen Topmast, the Misen-Top-sail Yard: The Cross Jack. In great Ships they have two Misens', the latter is called the Bonaventure Missen. A Jury Mast, that is, when a Mast is born by the board, with Yards, Roofs, Trees, or what they can, spliced or fished together they make a Jury Mast, woulding or binding them with Ropes fast triced together with hand-spikes, as they use to would or bind any Mast or Yard. CHAP. V. How all the Tackling and Rigging of a Ship is made fast one to another, with their names, and the reasons of their use. THe Rigging a Ship, is all the Ropes or Cordage belonging Rigging or Cordage. A Mast well rigged. A Yard well rigged. Over-rigged. to the Masts and Yards; and it is proper to say, The Mast is well rigged, or the Yard is well rigged, that is, when all the Ropes are well sised to a true proportion of her burden. We say also, when they are too many or too great, she is over-rigged; and doth much wrong a Ship in her sailing; for a small weight aloft, is much more in that nature than a much greater below, and the more upright any Ship goeth, the better she saileth. All the Masts, Top-Masts, and Flagstaffs have Stays, All Masts have Stays except one. A Choler. A Lannier. excepting the Spretsail Topmast; the mainmast Stay is made fast by a Lannier to a Choler, which is a great Rope that comes about the Head and Boultspret, the other end to the head of the mainmast. The main Topmast Stay is fastened to the head of the Fore mast by a strop and a dead Dead men's eyes. man's eye. The main Top-gallant-Masts Stay in like manner to the head of the Fore-Top-Mast. The fore Masts and stays belonging to them in like manner are fastened to the Boultspret, and Spretsail Topmast, and those Stays do help to stay the Boultspret. The Mizzen stays do come to the main Mast, and the Mizzen Topmast Stays to the Shrowds with Crows feet: The use of those Stays are to keep the Masts Crowes-feets. from falling aftwards, or too much forwards. Those Lanniers are many small Ropes reeved into the dead men's eyes of all A Description of a Ship with all her Tackling. Mizan Mast: And running Rigging. MIzan Mast & Topmast. 2. Mizan Yard and Sail. The Cross tree yard. Mizan Topsail yard and Sail Mizan Top and Cap. Mizan Topsail Lifts. Mizan Topsail Sheets. Mizan Shrowds. Mizan Topmast Shrowds. Mizan Chains. The Gallery. Tafferail. The Cap Ensign-staff and Ensign. The Quarter Deck. The half Deck. The Mizan Sheet. Mizan Topsail Braces. Mizan Topsail Bolins. Mizan Topsail Clewlins. Mizan Brailes. Mizan Topmasts Stay. Mizan Stay, Mizan Sheet. Yards & Oars for the Boat The Ships Boat. A hoistingline for Pennant. Mizan Bowlin. A Mizan Crowfoot. Cross tree Braces. Mizan Tack. The Laniards. The Mizan Topmast Crowfoot. Main Mast and running Rigging. 1 Mainmast & main Topmast 2 Main yard and Main Sail. 3 Main Topsail yard and Sail. 4 Top-gallant yard and Sail. 5 Top-gallant Cross-trees & Cap 6 Main Lifts. 7 Main Topsail Lifts. 8 Top-gallant Lifts. 9 Main Braces. 10 Main Sheets. 11 Main Bowling. 12 Main Clewgarnets'. 13 Main Stay. 14 Main Shrowds. 15 Main Chains and Chain-Plaits. 16 Backstays for the main Top: Mast. 17 Main Topmast Stay. 18 Main Topsail Braces. 19 Main Topsail Clewlines. 20 Main Topsail Bolins 21 Main Topmast Shrowds. 22 Main Top-gallant Shrowds. 23 Top-gallant Clewlines. 24 Top-gallant Braces. 25 Top-gallant Bolins. 26 The horse for the main Topsail yard. 27 Main Topsail Leathlines. 28 Main Topsail Buntlines'. 29 A Crowfoot from the Top to the Stay. 30 Main Tacks. 31 Main Sheets. 32 The main Tie and fall of the Garnet. 33 The Main Horse & Tackle. 34 The Tie of the main Topsail Jeers. 35 The main Top-gallant Sails Tie and Jeers. Foremast & rigging▪ 1 Foremast and Topmast. 2 Fore yard and Sail. 3 Fore Topsail yard and Sail. 4 Top-gallant yard and Sail. 5 Fore Lists. 6 Fore Topsail Lists. 7 Fore Top-gallant Lifts. 8 Cross-trees and Cap. 9 Fore Braces. 10 Fore Topsail Braces. 11 Fore Top-gallant Braces. 12 Fore Sheets and Tacks. 13 Fore Bolins. 14 Fore Topsail Bolins. 15 Fore Top-gallant Bolins. 16 Fore Clewgarnets'. 17 Fore Topsail Clewlines. 18 Fore Shrowds. 19 Fore Topmast Shrowds. 20 Fore Top-gallant Shrowds. 21 Fore Stay. 22 Fore Topmast Stay. 23 Fore Top-gallant Stay. 24 Horse for the fore Topsail yard 25 Fore Top-gallant Clewlines. 26 Fore Topmast Backstaies. 27 Fore Chains and Plaits. 28 Fore Topsail Leathlines. 29 Fore Topsail Buntlines'. 30 Fore Leathlines. 31 Fore Buntlines'. 32 The Fore Topsails Tie and Jeer. 33 The Yard of the fore Topsail. 34 The Fore Horse and Tackle. 35 The foretop Gallantsails Tye and Jeer. 36 The Fore Tacks. The Bowsprit and Rigging. 1 Bowsprit. 2 Spritsail yard and Sail. 3 Spritsail Top and Cross-trees. 4 Spritsail Topsail yard & sail, 5 Spritsail Topmast. 6 Spritsail Sheets. 7 Standing Lists for the Spritsail yard. 8 Spritsail Braces. 9 Spritsail Sheets. 10 Spritsail Clewlines. 11 Spritsail Topsail Braces. 12 Spritsail Topsail Lifts. 13 Spritsail Topmast Shrowds. 14 Jack Staff and Jack. 15 The Ships Head. 16 The Cat Head. 17 The Harsses. 18 The fore Castle. 19 The Crain line. 20 The Horse on the Bowsprit. 21 Steps on the side. 22 The main Spritsail. 23 The main Spretsail Tye & Jeers. 24 The Spritsail Topsail Clew-lines. 25 The Spritsail Topsails Jeer. 26 The Spritsail Topsail Crowfoot. 27 The Trens' Bowsprit. Shrowds, either to slacken them or set them taut; also all the Stays have their blocks, and Dead men's eyes have Larniers. Dead men's eyes are blocks, some small, some great, with many holes but no shivers; the Crows-feets reeved through them are a many of small lines, sometimes 6, 8, or 10, but of small use more than for fashion to make the Ship show full Blocks or Pulleys. Shivers. A Cock. Running ropes of small Ropes. Blocks or Pulleys are thick pieces of wood having shivers in them, which is a little wheel fixed in the midst with a Cock or Pin, some are brass, but the most of wood, whereon all the running Ropes do run, some are little, some great, with 3, 4, or 5 shivers in them, and are called by the names of the Ropes whereto they serve. There are also double Blocks, that where there is use of much strength will purchase with much ease, but not so fast Double Blocks. as the other, and when we hale any Tackle or Haleyard to which two blocks do belong, when they meet, we call that Block and Block. block and block. The Shrowds are great Ropes which go up either sides of all Masts. The Misen-main-Mast and foremast Shrowds All Masts have Shrouds, etc. have at their lower ends Dead men's eyes seized into them, and are set up taut by Lanniers to the chains; at the other end, over the heads of those Masts are Pendants, for Tackles and Swifters under them. The Top-Mast-Shrowds in like manner are fastened with Lanniers and Dead-mens-eyes to the Puttocks or Plaits of iron belonging to them, aloft over the head of the Mast as the other: And the Chains are Chains. strong Plates of iron fast bolted into the Ships side by the Chain-waile. When the Shrowds are too stiff, we say, ease them, when too slack, we say, set Taut the Shrouds, To ease. Taught. Ratlings. Puttock's. but the Boultspret hath no Shrowds, and all those small Ropes that cross the Shrowds like steps are called Ratlings. The Puttocks go from the Shrowds of the foremast, mainmast or Mizzen, to go off from the Shrowds into the Top, Cap., or Bowl, which is a round thing at the head of either Mast for men to stand in, for when the Shrowds come near the top of the Mast, they fall in so much, that without the Puttocks you could not get into the Top, and in a manner they are a kind of a shroud. A Pendant is a short Rope made fast at one end to the head of the Mast or the Yards-arm, having at the other end a block with a shiver to reeve some running rope in, as the Pendants of the backstays and Tackles hang a little down on the inside of the Shrowds: all Yards-arms have them but the Mizzen, into which the braces are reeved, and also there are Pendants or Streamers hang from the Yard-arms, made of Taffeta, or coloured Flanel-cloth to beautify the Ship only: Barrels are little Parrels. round Balls called Trucks, and little pieces of wood called Ribs, and ropes which do encircle the Masts, and so made Ribs. fast to the Yards, that the Yards may slip up and down easily upon the Masts, and with the help of the Breast rope doth Brest-ropes. Standing. ropes. keep the Yard close to the Mast. The Standing-ropes are the Shrowds and stays, because they are not removed, except it be to be eased or set tauter. The Tackles or ropes run in three parts, having a The Tackles, are of divers sorts, etc. Pendant with a block at the one end, and a block with a hook at the other, to heave any thing in or out of the Ship; they are of divers sorts, as the Bores-tackles made fast, the one to the fore Shrowds, the other to the main, to hoist the Boat in or out: Also the tackles that keep firm the Masts from straying. The Gunner's tackles for haling in or out the Ordnance: but the Winding tackle is the greatest, which is a great double block with three shivers to the end of a small Cable about the head of the Mast, and serveth as a Pendant; to which is made fast a Guy, which is a rope brought to it Guy. from the fore Mast, to keep the weight upon it steady, or from swinging to and again: Into the block is reeved a Hawser, which is also reeved thorough another doublock, having a Hawser. strop at the end of it, which put thorough the eye of the slings is locked into it with a fid, and so hoist the goods in or out by the help of the Snap block. Snap-block. Catharpings. Cat harpings are small ropes run in little blocks from one side of the Ship to the other, near the upper deck to keep the Shrowds tied for the more safety of the Masts from rolling. The Halyards belong to all Masts, for by them we Halyards. hoist the Yards to their height, and the Ties are the ropes The Ties. by which the Yards do hang, and do carry up the Yards when we strain the Halyards; the main-Yard and fore-Yard Ties are first reeved thorough the Ram's head, then thorough the Hounds, with a turn in the eye of the slings which are made fast to the Yard; the misen-Yard and top. Yard have but single Ties, that is, one doth but run in one part, but the Spretsail Yard hath none, for it is made fast with a pair of slings to the boltspret. A Horse is a rope made fast to the A Horse. foremast Shrowds, and the Spretsail sheats, to keep these sheats clear of the anchor-flookes. To Sling is to make fast any Cask, Yard, Ordnance, or To Sling. Slings. the like in a pair of Slings, and Slings are made of a rope spliced at either end into itself with one eye at either end, so long as to be sufficient to receive the Cask, the middle part of the rope also they seize together, and so maketh another eye to hitch the hook of the tackle, another sort are made much longer for the hoisting of Ordnance, another is a chain of iron to sling or bind the Yards fast aloft to the cross trees in a fight, lest the Tie should be cut, and so the Mast must fall. The Canhooks are two hooks fastened to the Canhookes. end of a rope with a noose, like that the Brewer's use to sling or carry their barrels on, and those serve also to take in or out Hogsheads, or any other commodities. A Parbunkel A Parbunkel. is two ropes that have at each end a noose or lump that being crossed, you may set any vessel that hath but one head upon them, bringing but the loops over the upper end of the Cask, fix but the tackle to them, and then the Vessel will stand strait in the midst to heave out, or take in without spilling. Puddings are ropes nailed round to the Yards arms close Puddings. to the end, a pretty distance one form another, to save the Robbins from galling upon the Yards, or to serve the anchors ring to save the clinch of the Cable from galling. And the Robbins are little lines reeved into the eylot holes of Robbins. the Sail under the Headropes, to make fast the Sail to the Yard, for in stead of tying, Seamen always say, make Head lines. fast. Head lines, are the ropes that make all the Sails fast to the Yard. Furling-lines are small lines made fast to the Topsail, Furling-lines. Top-gallant-sail, and the Missen-yards arms. The Missen hath but one called the Smiting line, the other on each A smiting-line. side one, and by these we farthel or bind up the Sails. The Brales are small ropes reeved through blocks seized on Brales. each side the ties, and come down before the Sail, and at the very skirt are fastened to the Creengles, with them we furl or farthel our Sails a cross, and they belong only to the two Courses and the Missen: to hale up the Brales, or brale up the Sail, is all one: Creengles are little ropes Creengles. spliced into the Boltropes of all Sails belonging to the Main and Foremast, to which the Bolings-bridles are made fast, and to hold by when we shake off a Bonnet. Boltropes is that rope is sewed about every Sail, soft Bolt-ropes. and gently twisted, for the better sewing and handling the Sails. Bunt lines is but a small rope made fast to the midst Buntlines. of the Boltrope to a Creengle reeved through a small Block which is seized to the Yard, to trice or draw up the bunt of the Sail, when you farthel or make it up. The Clew-garnet Clew-Garnet. is a rope made fast to the Clew of the Sail, and from thence runs in a block seized to the middle of the Yard, which in Furling doth hale up the Clew of the Sail close to the middle of the Yard, and the Clew-line is the same to the Topsails, Clew-line. top-gallant, and Spret-sails, as the Clew-garnet is to the Main and Foresails. The Clew of a Sail is the lower corner next the Sheet and Tacks▪ and stretcheth somewhat A Clew. goring or sloping from the square of the Sail, and according to the Goaring she is said to spread a great or a little Goaring. Tacks. Clew. Tacks are great ropes which having a wall-knot at one end seized into the Clew of the Sail and so reeved first through the Chestres, and then cometh in at a hole in the Ships sides, this doth carry forward the clew of the Sail to make it stand close by a wind. The Sheats are bend to Sheats. the Clews of all Sails, in the low-sails they hale aft the Clew of the Sails, but in Topsails they serve to hale them home, that is, to bring the Clew close to the Yards-arm. The Braces belong to all yards but the Missen, every yard Braces. hath two reeved at their ends through two pendants; and those are to square the yards, or traverse them as you please. The Boling is made fast to the leech of the Sail about the Boling. midst to make it stand the sharper or closer by a wind, it is fastened by two, three, or four Ropes like a Crow's foot to as many parts of the Sail which is called the Boling-bridles, Boling-bridles. only the Missen-boling is fastened to the lower end of the Yard; this Rope belongs to all Sails except the Spretsail, and Spretsail Topsail, which not having any place to Sharp the Boling. Hale the Boling. Check the Boling. Lee fanngs. hale it forward by, they cannot use those Sails by a wind: Sharp the main Boling, is to hale it taut; Hale up the Boling, is to pull it harder forward on: check or ease the Boling is to let it be more slack. Leefanngs is a Rope reeved into the Creengles of the courses, when we would hale in the bottom of the Sail, to lash on a bonnet, or take in the Sail; and Reeving is but drawing Reeving. Leech-lines. a Rope through a block or eyelet to run up and down. Leech-lines are small Ropes made fast to the Leech of the topsails, for they belong to no other; and are reeved into a block at the Yard close by the Topsail ties, to hale in the Leech of the Sail when you take them in. The Leech of a Sail is the Leech of a sail. outward side of a skirt of a Sail, from the ear-ring to the clew; and the Ear-ring is that part of the Bunt-rope which at all Earring: the four corners of the Sail is left open as it were a ring. The two upmost parts are put over the ends of the Yards-arms, and so made fast to the Yards, and the lowermost are seized or bend to the Sheats, and tacks into the clew. The Lists Bent. Lifts. are two Ropes which belong to all Yards-arms, to top the Yards; that is, to make them hang higher or lower at your pleasure. But the topsail Lifts do serve for Sheats to Topping the Lifts. the Top gallant-Yards, the haling them is called the topping the Lists, as Top-a-starboard, or Top-a-port. Legs are small Ropes put through the Bolt-ropes of the Legs. main and foresail, near to a foot in length, spliced each end into the other in the Leech of the Sail, having a little eye whereunto the Martnets are fastened by two hitches, and the end seized into the standing parts of the Martnets, which Martnet. are also small lines like Crowfeets reeved through a block at the Top mast-head, and so comes down by the Mast to the Deck; but the Topsail Martnets are made fast to the head of the Top gallant mast, and cometh but to the top, where it is haled and called the Top-martnets, they serve to bring that part of the Leech next the Yards-arm up close to the Yard. Latchets are small lines sowed in the Bonnets and Drabblers Latchets. like loops to lash or make fast the Bonnet to the course, or the course to the Drabler, which we call lashing the Bonnet to Lashing. the course, or the Drabler to the Bonnet. The Loofe-hook is a tackle with two hooks, one to hitch into a chingle of the The Loofe-hook. main, or foresail, in the Bolt-rope in the Leech of the Sail by the clew, and the other to strap spliced to the Chestres to chester's. Bouse. bouse or pull down the Sail to succour the tacks in a stiff-gale of wind, or take off or put on a Bonnet or a Drabler. which are two short sails to take off or put to the fore - Course A Bonner. A Drabler. A Course. or the main, which is the fore Sail, or mainsail. The Knaveline is a Rope hath one end fastened to the cross-trees, and so comes down by the ties to the Ramshead, A Knaveline. to which is seized a small piece of wood some two foot long with a hole in the end, whereunto the line is reeved, and brought to the Ships side, and haled taut to the Rails to keep the ties and Halyards from turning about one another when they are new. Knettels are two Rope-yarnes twisted Knettels. together, and a knot at each end, whereunto to seize a block, a rope, or the like. Rope-yarns are the Yarnes of Rope-yarnes. any rope untwisted, they serve to serve small ropes, or make Sinnet, Mats, Plaits, or Caburns, and make up the Sails at the Yards-arms. Sinnet is a string made of Rope-yarn commonly of two, Sinnet. four, six, eight or nine strings plaited in three parts, which being beat flat they use it to serve ropes or Mats. That Mats or Panch. which we call a Panch, are broad clouts, woven of Thrums and Sinnet together, to save things from galling about the main and fore-Yards at the Ties, and also from the Masts, and upon the Boltspret, Loufe, Beak head or Gunwaile, to save the clewes of the Sails from galling or fretting. Caburne is a small line made of Spun-yarn to make a bend Caburne. of two Cables, or to seize the Tackles, or the like. Seizing Seizing. is to bind fast any ropes together, with some small rope-yarne. Marline is any line, to a block, or any Tackle, Pendant, Garnet, or the like. There is also a rope by which the Boat doth ride by the Ships side, which we call a Seasen. To serve any rope with Plaits or Sinnet, is but to Seasen. Serve or Sirvis. lay Sinnet, Spun-yarn, Rope-yarn, or a piece of Canvas upon the rope, and then roll it fast to keep the rope from galling about the Shrowds at the head of the Masts, the Cable in the Hawse, the flock of the Anchor, the Boat-rope or any thing. Spunyarn is nothing but rope-yarn made small at Spunyarn. the ends, and so spun one to another so long as you will with a winch. Also Caskets are but small ropes of Sinnet made Caskets. fast to the gromits or rings upon the Yards, the longest are in the midst of the Yards betwixt the Ties, and are called the breast Caskets, hanging on each side the Yard in small lengths only to bind up the Sail when it is furled. Marling is a small line of untwisted hemp, very pliant Marling. and well tarred, to seize the ends of Ropes from ravelin out, or the sides of the blocks at their arses, or if the Sail rend out of the Boltrope, they will make it fast with Marlin till they have leisure to mend it. The Marling spike, is but a Marling-spike. small piece of Iron to splice ropes together, or open the Bolt-rope when you sew the sail. Splicing is so to let one ropes Splicing. end into another, they shall be as firm as if they were but one rope, and this is called a round Splice; but the cut Splice A round splice. A cut Splice. is to let one into another with as much distance as you will, and yet be strong, and undo when you will. Now to make an end of this discourse with a Knot, you are to know, Seamen A Knot. A Wall-Knot. use three, the first is called the Wall-knot, which is a round knob, so made with the strouds or lays of a rope, it cannot slip; the Sheets, Tacks, and Stoppers use this knot. The Boling knot is also so firmly made and fastened A Boling-knot. by the bridles into the creengles of the Sails, they will break, or the Sail split before it will slip. The last is the Sheepshank Sheepshanks-Knot. which is a knot they cast them upon a runner or Tackle when it is too long to take in the goods, and by this knot they can shorten a Rope without cutting it, as much as they list, and presently undo it again, and yet never the worse. CHAP. VI What doth belong to the Boats and Skiffe, with the definition of all those Thirteen Ropes which are only properly called Ropes belonging to a Ship and the Boat, and their use. OF Boats there are divers sorts, but those belonging to Ships, are called either the Longboat, or Ships A Longboat. Boat, which should be able to weigh her Sheet-Anchor, those will live in any reasonable Sea, especially the Longboat: Great Ships have also other small Boats called Shallops and Skiffs, which are with more ease and less A Shallop. A Skiff. trouble rowed to and again upon any small occasion. To a Boat belongs a Mast and Sail, a Stay-sheet and Halyard, Rudder, and Rudder-Irons, as to a Ship, also in any Discovery they use a Tarpawling, which is a good piece of Tarpawling. Bails. Canvas washed over with Tar, to cover the Bails or Hoops over the Stern of their Boat, where they lodge in an Harbour, which is that you calla Tilt covered with Wadmall in your Wherries; or else an Awning; which is but the Awning. Boats-sail, or some piece of an old Sail brought over the Yard and Stay, and boomed out with the Boat-hook, so spread over their heads, which is also much used, as well a shore as in a Ship, especially in hot Countries to keep men from the extremity of heat or wet, which is very oft infectious. Thoughts are the Seats whereon the Rowers sit; and Thoughts. Thowles. Thowles small Pines put into little holes in the Gunwails or upon the Boats-side, against which they bear the Oars when they row, they have also a David; and also in Long-boats a windless to weigh the Anchor by, which is with more ease than the Ship can. The two arching-timbers against the boat head are called Carlings. Man the boat is to put a Gang of men, which is a company into her, they are A Gang. commonly called the Coxswains Gang, who hath the charge of her. Free the Boat is to bail or cast out the water. Trim Free or Bail. Trim Boat. Wind Boat. Hold water. Forbear. A Spell. the Boat is to keep her strait. Wind the Boat is to bring her head the other way. Hold water is to stay her. Forbear is to hold still any Oar you are commanded, either on the broad, or whole side. A fresh Spell is to relieve the Rowers with another Gang. Give the Boat more way for a dram of the Bottle, who says Amends, one and all, Vea, Vea, vea, vea. vea, vea, vea, vea, that is, they pull all strongly together. The Entering rope is tied by the Ships side, to hold by The Entering-rope. as you go up the entering Ladder, cleats, or wails. The Bucket-rope that is tied to the Bucket by which Bucket-rope. you hale and draw water up by the Ships side. The Bolt-ropes are those wherein the Sails are sowed. Bolt-ropes. Port-ropes. The Port-ropes hale up the Ports of the Ordnance. The jeare-rope is a piece of a Hawser made fast to the Main-yard, another to the Fore-yard close to the Ties, keeved Jeare-rope. through a Block which is seized close to the top, and so comes down by the Mast, and is reeved through another Block at the bottom of the Mast close by the Deck; great Ships have on each side the Ties one, but small Ships none: the use is to help to hoist up the Yard to succour the Ties, which though they break yet they would hold up the Master The Preventer-rope is a little one seized cross over the Preventer-rope. Ties, that if one part of them should break, yet the other should not run through the Ram's head to endanger the Yard. The Top-ropes are those wherewith we set or strike the Toprope. main or fore top masts, it is reeved through a great Block seized under the Cap, reeved through the heel of the Topmast thwart Ships, and then made fast to a ring with a clinch on the other side the Cap, the other part comes down by the Ties, reeved into the Knights, and so brought to, the Capstain when they set the Top masts. The Keel rope, you have read in the building, is of hair Keel-ropes. in the Keel to scour the Limber-holes. The Rudder-rope is reeved through the Stem post, and Rudder-rope. goeth through the head of the Rudder, and then both ends Spliced together, serves to save the Rudder if it should be struck off the Irons. The Cat-rope is to hale up the Cat. The Boy rope is that which is tied to the Boy by the Cat-rope. Boyrope. one end, and the Anchors flock by the other. The Boat-rope is that which the Ship doth tow her Boat-rope. Boat by, at her Stern. The Chest rope is added to the Boat-rope when she is Chest-rope. Shearing. towed at the Ships stern, to keep her from shearing, that is, from swinging to and again; for in a stiff gale she will make such yaws, and have such girds, it would endanger her to be torn in pieces, but that they use to swift her, that is, to encircle the Gunwaile with a good rope, and to that make Swifting. fast the Chest rope. CHAP. VII. The Names of all sorts of Anchors, Cables, and Sails; and how they bear their proportions, with their use: Also how the Ordnance should be placed, and the Goods stowed in a Ship. THE proper terms belonging to Anchors are many: the least are called Kedgers, to use in calm weather in a slow stream, or to kedge up and down a narrow A Kedger. River, which is when they fear the wind or tide may drive them on shore; they row by her with an Anchor in a Boat, and in the midst of the stream, or where they find most fit if the Ship come too near the shore, and so by a Hawser wind her head about, then weigh it again till the like occasion, and this is Kedging. There is also a Stream-Anchor Stream-Anchor. The first, Second, Third Anchor. Sheet-Anchor. not much bigger, to stem an easy stream or tide. Then there is the first, second, and third Anchor, yet all such as a Ship in fair weather may ride by, and are called Bow-Anchors. The greatest is the Sheet Anchor, and never used but in great necessity. They are commonly made according to the Burden of the Ship by proportion, for that the Sheet-Anchor of a small Ship will not serve for a Kedger An Anchors Shank. Flock. Shoulder. Beam or Nut. Eye. Ring. Stock. to a great Ship. Also it beareth a proportion in itself, as the one flock, which is that doth stick in the ground, is but the third part of the Shank in length; at the head of the shank there is a hole called an Eye, and in it a Ring, wherein is the Nut to which there is fast fixed a Stock of wood crossing the Flooks, and the length is taken from the length of the Shank. These differ not in shape but in weight, from two hundred, to three or four thousand weight. Grapels Grappels. or grapplings, are the least of all, and have four Flooks, but no stock; for a Boat to ride by, or to throw into a Ship in a fight, to pull down the gratings or hold fast. The Cables also carry a proportion to the Anchors, but if it be not three strand, it is accounted but a Hawser, yet a A Cable, the first, second, and third. great Ships Hawser may be a Cable to the Sheet-anchor for a small Ship: and there is the first, second, and third Cable, besides the Sheet-Anchor Cable. If the Cable be well Sheet-Anchor-Cable. Keckell. made, we say it is well laid. To Keckell or serve the Cable, as is said, is but to bind some old clouts to keep it from galling in the Hawse or Ring. Splice a Cable, is to fasten Splice. two ends together, that it may be double in length, to make the Ship ride with more ease, and is called a shot of Cable. A shot of Cable. Quoil. A Fake. Pay more Cable. Pay-cheape. Veer more Cable. End for end. A Bite. Quoil a Cable, is to lay it up in a round Ring, or fake one above another. Pay more Cable, is when you carry an Anchor out in the Boat to turn over. Pay cheap, is when you over set it, or turns it over board faster. Veer more Cable, is when you ride at Anchor. And end for end is when the Cable runneth clear out of the Hawse, or any rope out of his shiver. A Bite is to hold by any part of a coil, that is, the upmost fake. A Bitter is but the turn of a Cable about the Bits, and veer it out by little and little. And the Bitters end is that part of the Cable doth stay within A Bitter. A Bitters end. Gert. board. Gert, is when the Cable is so taut that upon the turning of a tide, a Ship cannot go over it. To bend the Cable to the Anchor, is to make it fast to To bend Unbend. the Ring; unbend the Cable, is but to take it away, which we usually do when we are at Sea, and to tie two ropes or Cables together is called bending. Hitch, is to catch hold Bending Hitch. of any thing with a rope to hold it fast, or with a hook, as hitch the Fish-hook to the Anchors flock, or the Tackles into the Garnets' of the Slings. Fenders are pieces of old Fenders. Junkes. Hawsers called junkes hung over the Ship-sides to keep them from bruising. In Boats they use Poles or Boat-hooks to fend off the Boat from bruising. A Breast fast is a Brest-fast. rope which is fastened to some part of the Ship forward on, to hold her head to a Wharff or any thing, and a Stern fast Stern-fast. is the same in the Stern. The use for the Hawser is to warp the Ship by, which is laying out an Anchor, and wind her up to it by a Capstern. Rousing is but pulling the flackness Rousing. of any Cables with men's hands into the Ship. The Shank-panter is a short chain fastened under the Fore-masts Shank-panter. shrowds with a bolt to the Ships sides, and at the other end a rope to make fast the Anchor to the Bow. To Stop Stop. is when you come to an Anchor, and veeres out your Cable, but by degrees till the Ship ride well, than they say stop the Ship. To those Cables and Anchors belong short pieces of wood called Boys, or close hooped Barrels like Tankards Boys. as is said, but much shorter, to show you the Anchor and help to weigh it, there is another sort of Cans called Can Boys Can-Boyes. much greater, moored upon shoules to give Martiners warning of the dangers. The Main sail and the Fore sail is called the Fore-course, and the main course, or a pair of Courses. Bonit's and Drabblers Sailes. Mainsail. Foresail. Main-course. Fore course. Bonnets. Drabblers. are commonly one third part a piece to the Sail they belong unto in depth, but their proportion is uncertain; for some will make the mainsail so deep, that with a shallow Bonit they will clothe all the Mast without a Drabler, but without Bonnets we call them but Courses; we say, lash on the Bonnet to the Course, because it is made fast with Latchets into the Eylot-holes of the Sail, as the Drabler is to it, and used as the wind permits. There is also your Maintop sail, Main-top-sail. Fore-top-sail. To-gallant-Sails. Studding-sails. and Fore-top-sail, with their Top-gallant-sails, and in a fair Gale your Studding-sails, which are Bolts of Canvas, or any cloth that will hold wind, we extend alongst the side of the Main sail, and Booms it out with a Boom or long Pole, which we use also sometimes to the Clown of the Mainsail, Foresail, and Spret sail, when you go before the Mizzen. Misen-top-sail. Spretsail. Spret-sail-top. Sail. Drift-sail. Wind or Quartering, else not. Your Mizzen, and Misen-top-sail, your Spret and Spret-top-sail, as the rest, take all their names of their Yards. A Drift-sail is only used under water, veered outright a head by Sheets, to keep the Ships-head right upon the Sea in a storm, or when a Ship drives too fast in a current. A Netting sail is only a Sail Netting sail. laid over the Netting, which is small Ropes from the top of Nettings. the Fore castle to the Poop, stretched upon the Ledges from the Waist-trees to the Roof trees, which are only small Waist-trees. Roufe-trees. Timbers to bear up the Grating from the half-Deck to the Forecastle, supported by Stantions that rest upon the half-Deck; and this Netting or Grating, which is but Stantions. Gratings. the like made of Wood, you may set up or take down when you please, and is called the close Fights fore and aft. Now the use of those Sails is thus, all Head-sails, which are Head-Sails. those belonging to the Fore mast and Bolt spret, do keep the Ship from the Wind or to fall off: All After-sails, that After-Sails. is, all the Sails belonging to the Mainmast and Mizzen, keeps her to Wind-ward, therefore few Ships will steer upon Quarter-winds with one Sail, but must have one after Sail, and one Head-sail. The Sails are cut in proportion as the Masts and Yards are in breadth and length, but the Spretsail is ¾ parts the depth of the Fore sail, and the Mizzen by the Leech twice so deep as the Mast is long from the Deck to the Hounds. The Leech of a Sail is the outward Leech. side or skirt of the Sail from the Ear-ring to the Clew, the middle betwixt which we account the Leech. The Clew, The Clew. is the lower corner of a Sail, to which you make fast your Sheets and Tacks, or that which comes goring out from the square of the Sail, for a Square-sail hath no Clew, but the Main sail must be cut Goring, because the Tacks will Goring. come closer aboard, and so cause the Sail to hold more-wind; now when the Sail is large and hath a good Clew, we say she spreads a large Clew, or spreads much Canvas. In making those Sails they use two sorts of Seams down the Sails, which doth sew the breadth of the Canvas together, the one we call a Monk seam, which is flat, the other a Round seam, which is so called because it is round. A Monk-seam. A Round-seam. The Ship being thus provided, there wants yet her Ordnance, which should be in greatness according to her building in strength and burden, but the greatest commonly lieth lowest, which we call the lower Tier, if she be A Tier. furnished fore and aft. Likewise the second Tier, and the Third. Second. third, which are the smallest. The Fore castle and the half Deck being also furnished, we account half a Half a Tier. Tier. Stowage or to Stow, is to put the goods in Howl in Stowage. To Stow. Ballast. order. The most ponderous next the Ballast, which is next the Keelson to keep her stiff in the Sea. Ballast is either Gravel, Stones, or Led, but that which is driest, heaviest, and lies closest is best. To find a leak, they Trench Trench the Ballast. Shoot. the Ballast, that is, to divide it. The Ballast will sometimes Shoot, that is, run from one side to another, and so will Corn and Salt, if you make not Pouches or Bulk-heads, which when the Ship doth heeled is very dangerous to over-set or turn the Keel upwards. For Cask that is so stowed, Tier above Tier with Ballast, and Canting-Coines, Canting-Coins. which are little short pieces of wood or Billets cut with a sharp ridge or edge to lie betwixt the Cask; and Standing-Coines Standing-Coins. To bear. are Billets or Pipe-staves, to make them they cannot give way nor stir. The Ship will bear much, that is, carry much Ordnance or goods, or bear much Sail; and when you let any thing down into the Howl, lowering it Amain. Strike. by degrees, they say, Amain; and being down, Strike. CHAP. VIII. The Charge and Duty of the Captain of a Ship, and every Office and Officer in a Man of War. THE Captain's Charge is to command all, and tell The Captain's Charge. the Master to what Port he will go, or to what Height. In a Fight, he is to give Direction for the managing thereof, and the Master is to see the cunning of the Ship, and Trimming of the Sails. The Master and his Mates are to direct the course, command The Master and his Mates. all the Sailors, for Steering, Trimming, and Sailing the Ship; his Mates are only hid Seconds, allowed sometimes for the two Mid-Ships-Men, that aught to take charge of the first prize. The Pilot when they make Land doth take the charge The Pilot. of the Ship till he bring her to Harbour. The Chirurgeon is to be exempted from all duty, but to attend the Sick, and cure the wounded: and good care The Chirurgeon and his Mate. would be had he have a Certificate from Barber-Chirurgions Hall of his sufficiency, and also that his Chest be well furnished both for Physic and Chirurgery, and so near as may be, proper for that clime you go for, which neglect hath been the loss of many a man's Life. The Cap-Merchant or Purser hath the charge of all The Cap-Merchant or Purser. the Carragasoun or Merchandise, and doth keep an account of all that is received, or delivered, but a Man of War hath only a Purser. The Master Gunner hath the Charge of the Ordnance, and Shot, Powder, Match, Ladles, Sprunges, Worms, Cartrages, The Gunner with his Mate, and quarter Gunners. Arms and Fire-Works; and the rest of the Gunners, or Quarter Gunners to receive their Charge from him according to directions, and to give an account of their stores. The Carpenter and his Mate, is to have the Nails, Clinches, Roove and Clinch-nailes, Pikes, Splates, Rudder-Irons, The Carpenter and his Mate. Pump nails, Skupper nails, and Leather, Saws, files, Hatchets, and such like, and ever ready for calking, Breaming, Stopping leaks, Fishing, or splicing the Masts or Yards as occasion requireth, and to give account of his Store. The Boatswain is to have the Charge of all the Cordage, The Boatswain and his Mate. Tackling, Sails, Fids and Marling-spikes, Needles, Twine, Sail-cloth, and Rigging the Ship, his Mate the Command of the Longboat, for the setting forth of Anchors, weighing or fetching home an Anchor, Warping, Towing, or Moring, and to give an account of his Store. The Trumpeter is always to attend the Captains Command, The Trumpeter. and to sound either at his going a Shore, or coming aboard, at the entertainment of Strangers, also when you hale a Ship, when you charge, board, or enter; and the Poop is his place to stand or sit upon, if there be a noise, they are to attend him, if there be not, every one he doth teach to bear a part, the Captain is to encourage him, by increasing his Shares, or pay, and give the Master Trumpeter a reward. The Marshal is to punish Offenders, and to see Justice The Marshal. executed according to Directions; As Ducking at the Yards Arm, haling under the Keel, bound to the Capstern, or mainmast with a Basket of Shot about his Neck, setting in the Bilbowes, and to pay the Cobty or the Morjoune; but the Boys the Boatswain is to see every Monday at the Chest, to say their compass, and receive their punishment for all their Weeks offences, which done, they are to have a quarter Can of Beer, and a Biscuit of Bread, but if the Boatswain Eat or Drink before he catch them, they are free. The Corporal is to see the Setting and Relieving the Watch, The Corporal. and see all the Soldiers and Sailors keep their arms clean, Neat, and You're, and teach them their use. The Steward is to deliver out the Victuals according to The Steward. and his Mate. the Captain's directions, and Mess them four, five, or six, as there is occasion. The Quarter-Masters have the Charge of the Howle, The Quartermaster. for Stowing, Rummaging and Trimming the Ship in the hold, and of their Squadrons for the Watch, and for Fishing to have a Sayne, a Fisgig, a Harpin-yron, and Fishbooks, for Porgos, Bonetoes, Dolphins, or Dorados, and Rayling-lines for Mackerel. The Cooper is to look to the Cask, Hoops and Twigs, to The Cooper and his Mate. stave or repair the Buckets, Baricos, Cans, Steep-tubs, Runlets, Hogsheads, Pipes, Butts, etc. For Wine, Bear, Cider, Beverage, Freshwater, or any Liquor. The Coxswain is to have a choice Gang to attend the The Coxswain and his Mate. Skiffe, to go to and again as occasion commandeth. The Cook is to dress and deliver out the Victual, he The Cook and his Mate. hath his Store of Quarter Cans, small Cans, Platters, Spoons, Lanterns, etc. And is to give his Account of the remainder. The Swabber is to wash and keep clean the Ship and The Swabber. Maps. The Liar is to hold his place but for a week, and he that The Liar: is first taken with a lie, every Monday is so proclaimed at the mainmast by a general cry, a Liar, a Liar, a Liar, he is under the Swabber, and only to keep clean the Beak-head, and Chains. The Sailors are the ancient men for hoising the Sails, The Sailors. getting the tacks aboard, haling the Bowling, and Steering the Ship. The Younkers are the young men called fore Mast-men to take in the top sails, or Top and Yard, for furling the. The Younkers Sails, or Slinging the Yards, Bousing or Trising, and take their turns at Helm. The Lieutenant is to associate the Captain, and in his absence to execute his place, he is to see the Marshal and The Lieutenant his place. Corporal do their duties, and assist them in instructing the Soldiers, and in a fight the forecastle is his place to make good, as the Captain doth the Half-deck, and the Quarter-Masters, or Masters-Mate, the Mid-ships, and in a Statesman of War, he is allowed as necessary as a Lieutenant on Shore. CHAP. IX. Proper Sea-terms for dividing the Company at Sea, and steering, sailing, or moving a Ship in fair weather, or in a storm. IT is to be supposed by this the Ship is victualled and manned, the Voyage determined, the steep-Tubs in Steep-Tubs. the Chains to shift their Beef, Pork, or Fish in salt water, till the salt be out, though not the saltness, and all things else ready to set sail; but before we go any further, for the better understanding the rest, a few words for steering and Steering. Cunning. Starboard. Larboard. cunning. the Ship would not be amiss. Then know, Starboard is the right hand, Larboard the left; Starboard the Helm, is to put the Helm a Starboard, than the Ship will go to the Larboard. Right your Helm, that is, to keep it in the Mid ships. Port. mid Ships, or right up. Port, that is, to put the Helm to Larboard, and the Ship will go to the Starboard, for the Ship will ever go contrary to the Helm. Now by a quarter wind, they will say aloof, or keep your Loof, keep her to A loof. Keep your loof. War no more. No near. Ease. Steady. You're. it, have a care of your Lee-latch. Touch the wind, and war no more, is no more but to bid him at the Helm to keep her so near the wind as may be; no near, ease the Helm, or bear up, is to let her fall to Lee ward. Steady. that is, to keep her right upon that point you steer by; be you're at the Helm, or a fresh man to the Helm. But he that keeps the Ship most from yawing, doth commonly use the least motion with the Helm, and those steer the best. The Master and Company being aboard, he commands them to get the Sails to the Yards, and about your gear, or Gear. work on all hands, stretch forward your main Hallyards, hoist your Sails half Mast high. Prithee, or make ready to Prithee. set sail, cross your Yards, bring your Cable to the Capstern; Boatswain fetch an Anchor aboard, break ground or weigh Anchor. Heave a head, men into the Tops, men upon the Yards; come, is the Anchor, a pike; that is, to heave the A Pike. Hawse of the ship right over the Anchor: what is the Anchor away? Yea, yea. Let fall your Foresail. Tally, that is, Tally. hale off the Sheats; who is at the Helm there? coil your Cables in small fakes, hale the Cat, a Bitter, belay, lose fast your Anchor with your Shankpainter, stow the Boat, set the land, how it bears by the Compass, that we may the better know thereby to keep our account, and direct our course, let fall your Main sail, every man say his private Prayer for a boon Voyage, out with your spretsail, on with your Bonnits and Drabblers, steer steady and keep your course, so, you go well. How they divide the Company at Sea, and set, and rule the Watch. WHen this is done, the Captain or Master commands the Boatswain to call up the Company; the Master being chief of the Starboard watch, doth call one, and his right hand Mate on the Larboard doth call another, and so forward till they be divided into two parts, than each man is to choose his Mate, Consort, or Comrade, and then divide them into squadrons according to your number and burden of your Ship, as you see occasion; these are to take their turns at the Helm, trim sails, pump, and do all duties each half, or each squadron for eight Glasses, or four hours, which is a Watch; but care would be had, that there be not two Comrades upon one Watch, because they may have the more room in their Cabins to rest. And as the Captain and Master's Mates, Gunners, Carpenters, Quartermasters, Trumpeters, etc. are to be abaft the Mast, so the Boatswain, and all the Yonkers or common Sailors under his command is to be before the Mast. The next is, to mess them four to a Mess, and then give every Mess a quarter Can of Beer, and a Biscuit of Bread to stay their stomaches till the Kettle be boiled, that they may first go to Prayer, then to supper, and at six a Clock sing a Psalm, say a Prayer, and the Master with his side begins the Watch, than all the rest may do what they will till midnight; and then his Mate with his Larboard men, with a Psalm and a Prayer, relieves them till four in the Morning, and so from eight to twelve each other, except some flaw of wind come, some storm, or gust, or some accident that requires the help of all hands which commonly after such good Cheer in most Voyages doth happen. For now the wind veers, that is, it doth shift from point The wind veers. Tally. to point, get your Starboard-tackes aboard, and tally or hale off your Lee sheets. The Ship will not wayer, settle your main Topsail, veer a fathom of your sheet. The wind comes fair again and a fresh gale, hale up the Slatch of the Lee-boling. By Slatch is meant the middle part of any Rope hangs overboard. Veer more sheet, or a flown Flown. sheet, that is, when they are not haled home to the Block. But when we say, let fly the sheets, than they let go amain, Fly. which commonly is in some gust, lest they spend their Topsails, or if her quick side lie in the water, over-set the Ship. A Flown-sheet is when she goes before the wind, or betwixt a pair of sheets, or all Sails drawing. But the wind A pair of courses. shrinks, that is, when you must take in the Spretsail, and get the Tacks aboard, hale close the main Boling, that is, when your Tacks are close aboard. If you would sail against the wind, or keep your own, that is, not to fall to Lee-ward, or go back again, by haling off close your Bolings, you set your Sails so sharp as you can to lie close by a wind, thwarting it a League or two, or more or less, as you see cause, first on the one board, then on the other; this we call boarding or beating it up upon a Tack in the winds eye, or bolting to and again; but the longer your Board's are, the more you work or gather into the wind. If a sudden flaw of wind should surprise you, when you would lower a Yard so fast as you can, they call Amain; but a cross sail cannot come nearer the wind than six points, but a Carvel, whose Sails stands like a pair of Tallers shears, will go much nearer. How to handle a Ship in a Storm. IT overcasts, we shall have wind, foul weather, settle your Topsails, take in the Spretsail, in with your Topsails, lower the Foresail, tallow under the Parrels, brade up close all them Sails, lash sure the Ordnance, strike your Top-masts to the Cap, make it sure with your Sheeps-feets. A storm, let us lie at Try with our main-Course, that is, to Try. hale the Tack aboard, the Sheet close aft, the Boling set up, and the Helm tied close aboard. When that will not serve, then try the Mizzen, if that split, or the storm grow so great that she cannot bear it, then hull, which is to bear no Hull. sail, but to strike a hull is when they would lie obscurely in the Sea, or stay for some Consort, lash sure the Helm a lee, and so a good Ship will lie at ease under the Sea, as we Under the Sea. Weather coil. term it. If she will weather coil, and lay her head the other way without losing a sail, that must be done by bearing up the Helm, and then she will drive nothing so far to Lee-ward. They call it hulling also in a calm swelling Sea, which is commonly before a storm, when they strike their Sails lest she should beat them in pieces against the Mast by Rolling. Rolling. Labour. We say a Ship doth Labour much when she doth roll much any way; but if she will neither Try nor Hull, than spoon, that is, put her right before the wind, this way Spoon. although she will roll more than the other, yet if she be weak, it will not strain her any thing so much in the Trough Trough. of the Sea, which is the distance betwixt two Waves or Billows. If none of this will do well, than she is in danger to founder, if not sink. Foundering is, she will neither veer Founder. nor steer, the Sea will so over-rake her, except you free out the water, she will lie like a Log, and so consequently sink. To spend a Mast or Yard is when they are broke To spend a Mast. Spring a Master by foul weather, and to spring a Mast is when it is cracked in any place. In this extremity he that doth cun the Ship, cannot have too much judgement, nor experience to try her drift, or how she Caps, which are two terms also used in the Trials of the running or setting of currants. A yoke is when the Sea A Yoke. is so rough as that men cannot govern the Helm with their hands, and then they seize a block to the Helm on each side the end, and reeving two sals thorough them like Gunner's Tackles, brings them to the Ship side, and so some being at the one side of the Tackle, some at the other, they steer her with much more ease than they can with a single rope with a double turn about the Helm. When the Storm is past, though the wind may alter three or four points of the Compass, or more, yet the Sea for a good time will go the same way; then if your courle be right against it, you shall meet it right a head, so we call it a Head Sea. Sometimes when there is but little wind, A head Sea. there will come a contrary Sea, and presently the wind after it, whereby we may Judge that from whence it came was much wind, for commonly before any great Storm the Sea will come that way. Now if the Ship may run on shore in ose or mud she may escape, or Billage on a rock, or Anchors flock, repair her leak, but if she split or sink, she is a wrack. But seeing the Storm decreaseth, let us try if she will endure the Hullock of a Sail, which sometimes is a piece of Hullock. the Misen-Sail or some other little Sail, part opened to keep her head to the Sea, but if yet she would weather coil, we will lose a Hullock of her foresail, and put the Helm a weather, and it will bring her head where her stern is; courage my hearts. It clears up, set your fore Sail; Now it is fair weather out with all your Sails, go Larg or Lask, that is, when Large. Laskes. we have a fresh gale, or fair wind, and all Sails drawing. But for more haste unparrel the Misen-Yard and launch it, and the Sail over her Lee-quarrter, and fit Gives at the further end to keep the Yard steady, and with a Boom, Goosewing. Boom it out; this we call a Goose wing. Who is at Helm there? Sirrah, you must be amongst the Points; Well Master the Channel is broad enough; yet you cannot steer betwixt a pair of sheats; Those are words of mockery betwixt the Gunner and the Steersman. But to proceed. Get your Larboard Tacks aboard, hale off your Starboard sheats, keep your course upon the Point you are directed. Port, he will lay her by the Lee; the stays, or backstays, that is, when all the Sails flutter in the wind, and are not kept full, that is full of wind, they fall upon the Mast and Shrowds, so that the Ship goes a drift upon her broad side, fill the Sails, keep full, full and by. Make ready to Tack about, is for every man to stand to handle the Sails and ropes they must hale. Tack about is to bear up the Helm and that brings her to stay all her Sails lying flat against the Shrowds, then as she turns we say she is paid, then let rise your Lee tacks, and hale off your Sheats, and trim all your Sails as they were before, which is cast off that Boling which was the weather-Boling, and hale up tave the other. So, all your Sheats, Braces, and Tacks are trimmed by a wind as before. To belay, is to make fast the ropes in their proper places. Round in. is when the wind largesse, Round in. let rise the main-tack and foretack, and hale aft the fore Sheet to the Cats-head, and the main Sheet to the cubbridge head, this is Rounding in, or Rounding aft the Sail; the Sheets being there they hale them down to keep Rounding aft. them firm from flying up with a Pasarado, which is any rope wherewith we hale down the Sheats, blocks of the Pasarado. main or foresail, when they are haled aft the clew of the main Sail to the Cubbridge head of the main Mast, and the clew of the foresail to the Cat-head; Do this when the Ships goes large. Observe the height; that is, at twelve a clock to take the height of the Sun, or in the night the North Star, or in the Observe. forenoon and afternoon, if you miss these by finding the Azimuth and Almicanter. Dead-water is the Eddy Dead-water. water follows the stern of the Ship, not passing away so quickly as that slides by her sides. The Wake of a Ship is the smooth water a stern, showing the way she hath gone in The Wake. the Sea, by this we judge what way she doth make, for if the wake be right a stern, we know she makes good her way forwards; but if to Lee-ward a point or two, we then think to the Lee-ward of her course, but she is a nimble Ship, that in turning or tacking-about will not fall to the Lee ward of her wake when she hath weathered it. Disimbogue is Disimbogue. to pass some narrow strait or currant into the main Ocean out of some great Gulf or Bay. A Drift is any thing A drift. floating in the Sea that is of wood. Rock-weed doth grow Rockweed. by the shore, and is a sign of Land, yet it is oft found far in the Sea. Lay the Ship by the Lee to try the Dipsea Dipsea-line. line, which is a small line, some hundred and fifty fathom long, with a long plummet at the end, made hollow, wherein is put tallow, that will bring up any gravel; which is first marked at twenty fathom, and after increased by ten to the end; and those distinguished by so many small knots upon each little string that is fixed at the mark thorough the Strouds or midst of the line, showing it is so many times ten fathom deep, where the Plummet doth Plummet. rest from drawing the line out of your hand; this is only used in deep waters when we think we approach the shore, for in the Main Sea at 300. fathoms we find no bottom. Bring the Ship to rights, that is, again under Sail as she was; some use a Log-line, and a minute glass to know what way Log-line. she makes, but that is so uncertain, it is not worth the labour to try it. One to the Top to look out for Land, the man cries out Land to, Kenning. To lay a land. Land to; which is just so far as a Kenning, or a man may discover, descry, or see the Land. And to Lay a Land is to Sail from it, just so far as you can see it. A good Land fall Good land. fall. Bad land fall. A head land. A Point. Land mark. To raise a land. To make land. A Reach. is when we fall just with our reckoning, if otherwise a Bad Land fall; but however how it bears, set it by the Compass, and bend your Cables to the Anchors, A Head-Land, or a Poiut of Land doth lie further out at Sea than the rest. A Land mark, is any Mountain, Rock, Church, Windmill or the like, that the Pilot can know by comparing one by another how they bear by the Compass. A Reach is the distance of two Points so far as you can see them in a right line, as White-Hall and London-bridg, or White-Hall and the end of Lambeth towards Chelsey. Fetch the Sounding-line, this is bigger than the Dipsie-line, and is sounding-line. marked of two fathom next the lead with a piece of black leather, at three fathom the like, but slit; at 5 fathom with a piece of white cloth; at 7 fathom with a piece of red in a piece of white leather; at 15 with a white cloth, etc. The sounding lead is six or seven pound weight, and near a foot The Lead. long, he that doth heave this lead stands by the horse, or in the chains, and doth sing fathom by the mark 5. 0. and a shaftment less, 4. 0. this is to find where the Ship may sail by the depth of the water. Foul-water is when she Foul water. comes into shallow water where she raises the sand or ose with her way, yet not touch the ground, but she cannot feel her helm so well as in deep water. When a Ship sails with a large wind towards the land, or a fair wind into a harbour, we say she Bears in with Bear in. the land or harbour. And when she would not come near the land, but goeth more Room-way than her course, we say she bears off; but a Shipboard, Bear off is used to every Bear off Bear up. Hold off. thing you would thrust from you. Bear up is to bring the Ship to go large or before the wind. To Hold off is when we heave the Cable at the Capstern, if it be great and stiff, or slimy with ose, it surges or slips back unless they keep it Surges close to the whelps, and then they either hold it fast with nippers, or brings it to the Jeers Capstern, and this is called Holding off. As you approach the shore, shorten your Sails, when you are in Harbour take in your Sails, and come to an anchor, wherein much judgement is required. To know well the soundings, if it be Nealed to, that is, deep water close aboard the shore, shallow, or if the Lee Neale to. under the weather shore, or the Lee shore be sandy, clay, osie, or fowl and rocky ground, but the Lee shore all men would shun that can avoid it. Or a Road which is an open place near A Road: Offing. the shore. Or the Offing which is the open Sea from the shore, or the midst of any great stream is called the offing. Land-lock, is when the land is round about you. Land locked. To Ride. Now the Ship is said to Ride, so long as the Anchors do hold and comes not home. To Ride a great Road is when Ride a great Road, the wind hath much power. They will strike their Top-Masts, and the Yards alongst Ships, and the deeper the water is, it requires more Cable; when we have rid in any distress we say we have rid Hawse full, because the water Ride a stress. Ride betwixt. wind and tide. broke into the Hawses, To Ride betwixt wind and tide, is when the wind and tide are contrary and of equal power, which will make her roll extremely, yet not strain much the Cable. To ride thwart is to ride with her side to the tide, Ride thwart tide. Ride a pike. Ride cross. and then she never strains it. To ride apike is to pike your Yards when you ride amongst many Ships. To ride cross is to hoist the Main and fore-Yards to the hounds, and topped alike. When the water is gone and the Ship lies dry, we say she is Sewed; if her head but lie dry, she is Sewed a head Sewed. Sew. Water born. Water line. but if she cannot all lie dry, she cannot Sew there. Water horn is when there is no more water than will just bear her from the ground. The water line is to that Bend or place she should swim in when she is loaded. Lastly, to Moar a Ship is to lay out her anchors as is most To Moare. sit for her to ride by, and the ways are divers; as first, to Moar a fair Birth from any annoyance. To Moar a cross Moar cross. is to lay one anchor to one side of the stream, and the other to the other right against one another, and so they bear equally Ebb and Flood. To Moar alongst is to lay an anchor Moar alongst. amidst the stream ahead, and another a stern, when you fear driving a shore. Water shot is to moar quartering betwixt Water shot. both nether cross, nor alongst the tide. In an open road they will moar that way they think the wind will come the most to hurt them. To Moar a Proviso, is to have one Moar Proviso. anchor in the river and a hawser a shore, which is moared with her head a shore; otherwise two Cables is the least and four Cables the best to moar by. CHAP. X. Proper terms for the Winds, Ebbs, Floods, and Eddies with their definitions, and an estimate of the Depth of the Sea, by the Height of the Hills and the largeness of the Earth. WHen there is not a breath of wind stirring, it is A Calm or a stark Calm. A Breeze is a wind blows out of the Sea, and commonly in fair weather beginning about A Calm. A Breeze. nine in the morning, and lasteth till near night; so likewise all the night it is from the shore, which is called a Turnado, or a Sea turn, but this is but upon such coasts where Turnado. it bloweth thus most certainly, except it be a storm, or very foul weather, as in Barbary, Egypt, and the most of the Levant. We have such Breezes in most hot countries in Summer, but they are very uncertain. A fresh Gale is that doth presently A fresh Gale. blow after a calm, when the wind beginneth to quicken or blow. A fair Loom Gale is the best to Sail in because the A Loom. gale. Sea goeth not high, and we bear out all our Sails. A stiff gale is so much wind as our Topsails can endure to bear. An Eddy-wind is checked by the Sail, a Mountain, turning, Eddy-wind. It over blows. or any such thing that makes it return back again. It over blows when we can bear no Topsails. A flaw of wind is A Gust which is very violent upon a sudden, but quickly A Gust. A Spout. endeth. A Spout in the West Indies commonly falleth in those Gusts, which is, as it were, a small river falling entirely from the clouds, like out of our water Spouts, which make the Sea where it falleth rebound in flashes, exceeding high. Whirlwinds running round, and bloweth divers A whirlwind A Storm. ways at once. A Storm is known to every one not to be much less than a tempest, that will blow down Houses, and A Tempest. A Mounsoune. Trees up by the roots. A Mounsoune is a constant wind in the East Indies, that bloweth always three Months together one way, and the next three Months the contrary way. A Hurricane A Hurricane. is so violent in the West-Indies, it will continue three, four, or five weeks, but they have it not passed once in five, six, or seven years; but than it is with such extremity, that the Sea flies like rain, and the waves so high, they overflow the low Grounds by the Sea, insomuch, that Ships have been driven over tops of high Trees there growing, many Leagues into the Land, and there left, as was Captain Francis Nelson an Englishman, and an excellent Seaman for one. We say a calm-Sea, or Becalmed, when is so smooth the Becalmed. Ship moves very little, and the men leap over board to swim. A Rough Sea is when the waves grow high. An overgrown A Rough Sea. An overgrown Sea. Surges. The Rutilio of the Sea. The roaring of the Sea. Floods and Ebbs. Sea when the Surges and Billows go highest. The Rutilio of the Sea, where it doth dash against any thing. And the Roaring of the Sea is most commonly observed a shore, a little before a storm or after a storm. Flood is when the water beginneth to rise, which is young Flood as we call it, than Quarter-flood, Half-flood, Full-Sea, Still water, or High-water. So when it Ebbs, Quarter-ebb; Half-ebb, three Quarter-ebb, Low-water, or Dead Low water, every one doth know; and also that as at a Spring tie the Sea or water is at the highest, so at a Neape tied it is at the lowest. This word Tide, is common both to Flood and Ebb; for you say as well Tide of Ebb, as Tide of Flood, or a A Tide of Ebb A Tide of Flood. A windward Tide. A Leeward Tide. To Tide over. A Tide-gate. Tide and half-Tide. windward Tide, when the Tide runs against the Stream, as a Leeward Tide, that is, when the wind and the Tide goeth both one way, which makes the water as smooth as the other rough. To Tide over to a place, is to go over with the Tide of Ebb or Flood, and stop the contrary by Anchoring till the next Tide, thus you may work against the wind if it over-blow not. A Tide-gate is where the Tide runneth strongest. It flows Tide and half-Tide, that is, it will be half-Flood by the shore; before it begin to slow in the Channel; for although the Tide of Flood run aloft, yet the Tide of Ebb runs close by the ground. An Eddie-Tide Eddie Tide. is where the water doth run back contrary to the Tide, that is, when some Headland or great Point in a River hindereth the free passage of the stream, that causeth the water on the other side the Point to turn round by the shore as in a Cirle, till it fall into the Tide again. As touching the reasons of Ebbs and Floods, and to know how far it is to the bottom of the deepest place of the Sea, I will not take upon me to discourse of; as knowing the same to be the secrets of God unrevealed to man: only I will set down a Philosophical speculation of divers men's opinions touching the depth of the Sea; which I hope will not be thought much impertinent to the subject of this Book by the Judicious Reader. Fabianus in Pliny, and Cleomides conceived the depth of The height of Mountains perpendicular. the Sea to be fifteen Furlongs, that is, a Mile and ⅞ parts. Plutarch compared it equal to the highest Mountains; Scaliger and others conceited the Hills far surpassed the deepness of the Sea, and that in few places it is more than a hundred paces in depth, it may be he meant in some narrow Seas, but in the main Ocean experience hath taught us it is much more than twice so much, for I have sounded 300 fathom, yet sound no ground. Eratosthenes in Theon that great Mathematician writeth the highest Mountain perpendicular is but ten Furlongs, that is, one Mile and a quarter. Also Dicaearcus affirmeth this to be the height of the Hill Pelius in Thessalia, but Xenagoras in Plutarch observed the height of Olympius in the same region to be twenty paces more, which is 1270. paces, but surely all those mean only those Mountains in or about Greece, where they lived and were best acquainted; but how these may compare with the Alps, in Asia, Atlas in Africa, Caucasus in India, the The height of the Hills compared with the, Superficies of the Earth and depth of the Sea. Andes in Peru, and divers others hath not yet been examined. But whatsoever the Hills may be above the Superficies of the Earth, many hold opinion the Sea is much deeper, who suppose that the Earth at the first framing was in the superficies regular and Spherical, as the Holy Scripture directs us to believe; because the water covered and compassed all the face of the Earth, also that the face of the Earth was equal to that of the Sea. Damascene noteth, that the unevenness and irregularity, which now is seen in the Earth's Superficies, was caused by taking some parts out of the upper face of the Earth in sundry places to make it more hollow, and lay them in other places to make it more convex, or by raising up some part, and depressing others to make room and receipt for the Sea, that mutation being wrought by the power of the word of the Lord, Let the waters be gathered into one place, that the dry land may appear. As for Aquinas, Dionysius, Catharianus, and some Divines that conceited there was no mutation, but a violent accumulation of the waters, or heaping them up on high is unreasonable; because it is against nature, that water being a flexible and a ponderous body, so to consist and stay it solf, and not fall to the lower parts about it; where in nature there is nothing to hinder it; or, if it be restrained supernaturally by the hand and bridle of Almighty God, lest it should overwhelm and drown all the Land, it must follow, that God even in the very institution of Nature imposed a perpetual violence upon Nature. And this withal, that at the Deluge there was no necessity to break up the Springs of the Deep, and to open the Cataracts of Heaven, and pour down water continually so many days and nights together, seeing the only withdrawing of that hand, or letting go of that bridle which restraineth the water, would presently have overwhelmed How all the Hills and dry land above the Superficies of the Sea hath made room for the Sea, therefore they are in equal height and depth. all. But both by Scriptures, the experience of Navigators, and reason, in making estimation of the depth of the Sea, reckon not only the height of the Hills above the common Superficies of the Earth, but the height of all the dry Land above the Superficies of the Sea, because the whole mass of Earth that now appeareth above the waters, being taken as it were out of the places which the waters now possess, must be equal to the place out of which it was taken; so consequently it seemeth, that the height or elevation of the one should answer the descending or depth of the other; and therefore in estimating the depth of the Sea, we consider not only the erection of the Hills above the ordinary land, but the advantage of the dry land above the Sea; which latter, I mean the height of the ordinary main-land, excluding the Hills, which properly answer the extraordinary Deeps and Whirlpools in the Sea. The rest is held more in large Continents above the Sea, than that of the Hills is above the land. For that the plain face of the dry land is not level, or equally That there is small difference betwixt the springs first rising out of the Earth, and their falling into the Sea. distant from the Centre, but hath a great descent towards the Sea, and a rising towards the midland parts, although it appear not plainly to the eye, yet to reason it is most manifest; because we find that part of the Earth the Sea covereth descendeth lower and lower towards the Sea. For the Sea, which touching the upper face of it, is known by nature to be level, and evenly distant from the Centre, is observed to wax deeper and deeper, the further one saileth from the shore towards the main Ocean: even so in that part which is uncovered, the streamings of Rivers on all sides from the Midland parts towards the Sea, sliding from the higher to the lower, declareth so much; whose courses are some 1000 or 2000 miles, in which declination, Pliny in his derivation of water requireth one cubit of declining in 240 foot of proceeding. But Columella, Vitruvius, Paladius, and others, in their conduction of waters require somewhat less; namely, that in the proceeding of 200, foot forward, there should be allowed one foot of descending downward, which yet in the course of 1000 miles, as Danubius, Volgha, or Indus, etc. have so much or more, which will make five miles of descent in perpendicular account, and in the course of 2000 or more, as Nilus, Niger, and the River of the Amazons, have ten miles or more of the like descent. These are not taken as rules of necessity, as though water The determination of these questions. could not run without that advantage, for that respect the conveyors of waters in these times content themselves with one Inch in 600. foot, as Philander and Vitruvius observed, but is rather under a rule of commodity for expedition and wholsomeness of water so conveyed, lest resting too long in Pipes it should contract some unwholesome condition, or else through the slackness of motion, or long closeness, or banishment from the air, gather some aptness and disposition to putrify. Although I say, such excess of advantage as in the Artificial conveyance of Waters the forenamed Authors require, be not of necessity exacted in the natural derivation of them, yet certain it is, that the descent of Rivers being continually, and their course long, and in many places swift, and in some places headlong and furious; the differences of height Note, the difference betwixt the springs of the Rivers, and their falling into the Sea is not great. or advantage cannot be great betwixt the springs of the Rivers, and their outlets, betwixt the first rising out of the Earth, and their falling into the Sea: unto which declivity of land, seeing the deepness of the Sea in proportion answer, as I before declared, and not only to the height of the Hills: it is concluded, that the deepness to be much more than the Philosophers commonly reputed: and although the deepness of the Sardinian Sea, which Aristotle saith, was the deepest of the Mediterranean, recorded by Posidonius in Strabo, to have been found but 1000 fathom, which is but a mile and a fifth part, and the greatest breadth not past 600. miles: then seeing if in so narrow a Sea it be so deep, what may we esteem the main Ocean to be, that in many places is five times so broad, seeing the broader the Seas are, if they be entire and free from Islands, they are answerably observed to be the deeper. If you desire any further satisfaction, read the first part of Purchas his Pilgrimage, where you may read how to find all those Authors at large. Now because he hath taken near 100 times as much from me, I have made bold to borrow this from him, seeing he hath sounded such deep Waters for this our Ship to sail in, being a Gentleman whose person I loved, and whose memory and virtues I will ever honour. CHAP. XI. Proper Sea terms belonging to the good or bad condition of Ships, how to find them and amend them. A Ship that will try, hull, and ride well at Anchor, we A wholesome Ship. call a wholesome Ship. A long Ship that draws much water will do all this, but if she draw much water, and be short, she may Hull well, but neither try nor ride well; if she draw little water and be long, she may try and ride well, but never Hull well, which is called an unwholesome Ship. The Howsing in of a Ship is when she An unwholesome Ship. Howsing a Ship. is past the breadth of her bearing she is brought in narrow to her upper works: it is certain this makes her wholesome in the Sea without rolling, because the weight of her Ordnance doth counterpoise her breadth under water, but it is not so good in a Man of War, because it taketh away a great deal of her room, nor will her Tacks ever so well come aboard as if she were laid out aloft, and not Flaring, which Flaring. is when she is a little Howsing in, near the water, and then the upper work doth hang over again, and is laid out broader aloft, this makes a Ship more roomy aloft for men to use their arms in, but Sir Walter Raleighs proportion, which is to be proportionably wrought to her other work is the best, because the counterpoise on each side doth make her swim perpendicular or strait, and consequently steady, which is the best. If a Ship be narrow, and her bearing either not laid out enough or too low, than you must make her broader and her bearing the higher by ripping off the Planks two or three strikes under water, and as much above, and put other Timbers upon the first, and then put on the Planks upon those Timbers, this will make her bear a better Sail, but it is an hindrance to her Sailing, this is to be done when a Ship is Crank-sided, and will bear no Sail, and is called Crank side. Furring. Furring. Note also, that when a Ship hath a deep Keel it doth keep her from rolling. If she be floaty and her Keel shallow, put on another Keel under the first to make it deeper, for it will make her hold more in the water, this we call a false Keel. Likewise if her Stem be too flat to make A false Keel. Gripe. her cut water the better, and not gripe, which is when she will not keep a wind well; fix another Stem before it, and that is called a false Stem, which will make her rid more A false Stem. The Run. way, and bear a better Sail. Also the Run of a Ship is as much to be regarded, for if it be too short and too full below, the water comes but slowly to the Rudder, because the force of it is broken by her breadth, and then to put a false Stem post to lengthen her is the next remedy, but to lengthen her is better; for when a Ship comes off handsomely by degrees, and her Tuck doth not lie too low, which will hinder the water from coming swiftly to the Rudder, makes her she cannot steer well, and they are called as they are, a good run or a bad. When a Ship hath lost a piece of her A good Run. A bad Run. A Stirrup. Keel, and that we cannot come well to mend it, you must patch a new piece unto it, and bind it with a Stirrup, which is an Iron comes round about it, and the Keel up to the other side, of the Ship, whereto it is strongly nailed with Spikes. Her Rake also may be a defect, which is so much of the Hull, Her Rake. as by a perpendicular line the end of the Keel is from the setting on of the Stem, so much as is without that forward on, and in like manner the setting in of her Stem-Post. Your Frenchmen gives great Rakes forwards on, which makes her give good way, and keep a good wind, but if she have not a full Bow, she will pitch her Head extremely in the Sea. If she have but a small Rake, she is so bluff that the Seas meets her so suddenly upon the Pows she cannot cut the water much, but the longer a Ship is, the fuller should be her Bow, but the mean is the best. The Looming of a Ship Loom. is her prospective, that is, as she doth show great or little: Her water-draught is so many foot as she goes in the water, but the Ships that draw most water are commonly the most wholesome, but the least draught goes best but rolls most, and we say a Ship doth Heeled on Starboard or Larboard, that is, to that side she doth lean most. Heeled. To Overset or overthrow a Ship, is by bearing too much Sail you bring her Keel upwards, or on shore overthrow her Overset. Overthrow. by grounding her, so that she falls upon one side; and we say a Ship is walt when she is not stiff, and hath not Ballast enough in her to keep her stiff. And Wall-reared when she Walt. Wall reared. is right built up, after she comes to her bearing it makes her ill shapen and unseemly, but it gives her within much room, and she is very wholesome, if her bearing be well laid out. The Masting of a Ship is much to be considered, and will much cause her to sail well or ill, as I have related in the Masting a Ship. Iron-sick, is when the Bolts, Spikes, or Nails are so oaten with rust they stand hollow in the Planks, and so Iron sick. makes her Leak, the which to prevent, they use to put Lead over all the Bolt-heads under water. Lastly, the trimming of a Ship doth much amend or impair her sailing, and so alter her condition. To find her Trim, that is, how she will sail best; is by trying her sailing with another Ship, so many Trim. Glasses trimmed a head, and so many a stern, and so many upon an even Keel; also the easing of her Masts and Shrowds, for some Ships will sail much better when they are slack than when they are taut. CHAP. XII. Considerations for a Sea Captain in the choice of his Ship, and in placing his Ordnance. In giving Chase, Boarding, and entering a Man of War like himself, or a defending Merchantman. IN Land-service we call a Man of War a Soldier, either How to choose a Ship fit to make a Man of War. on Foot or Horse, and at Sea a Ship, which if she be not, as well built, conditioned, and provided, as near fitting such an Employment, as may be, she may prove (either) as a Horseman that knoweth not how to hold his Reins, keep his seat in his saddle and stirrups, carry his Body, nor how to help his Horse with leg and spur in a curvet, gallop, or stop; or as an excellent Horseman that knoweth all, this, mounted upon a Jade that will do nothing, which were he mounted according to his Experience, he would do more with that one, than half a dozen of the other, though as well provided as himself. But I confess, every Horseman cannot mount himself alike, neither every Seaman ship himself as he would. I mean not for outward Ornament, which the better they are, the less to be disliked; for there cannot be a braver sight than a Ship in her Bravery, but of a competent sufficiency, as the business requireth. But were I to choose a Ship for myself, I would have her sail well, yet strongly built, her Decks flush and flat, and so roomy that men might pass with ease; her Bow and Chase so Galley like contrived, should bear as many Ordnance as with conveniency she could, for that always cometh most to fight, and so stiff, she should bear a stiff Sail, and bear out her lower Tier in any reasonable weather; neither should her Gun room be unprovided; not manned like a Merchantman, which if they be double manned, that is, to have twice so many men as would fail her, they think it is too many, in regard of the charge, yet to speak true, there are few Merchant Ships in the World do any way exceed ours. And those men they entertain in good Voyages, have such good Pay, and such acquaintance one with another in shipping themselves, that thirty or forty of them would trouble a Man of War with three or four times their number manned with Prest Men, being half of them scarce hale-Boulings. Yea, and many times a Pirate, who are commonly the best manned, but they fight only for Wealth, not for Honour nor Revenge, except they be extremely constrained. But such a Ship as I have spoken of, well manned with rather too many than too few, with all sufficient Officers, Shot, Powder, Victual, and all their apurtenances, in my opinion, might well pass muster for a time of War. Now being at Sea, the Tops are seldom without one or His Reward that first descries a Ship, or enters a Prize. other to look out for Purchase, because he that first descries a sal, if she prove Prize, is to have a good Suit of Apparel, or so much Money as it set down by order, for his Reward; as also he that doth first enter a Ship, there is a certain Reward allowed him: When we see a Ship alter her course, and useth all the means she can to fetch you up, you are the Chase, and he the Chaser. In giving chase, or chase, or to escape How to give chase, and escape the Chaser. being chased, there is required an infinite Judgement and Experience, for there is no Rule for it; but the shortest way to fetch up your Chase, is the best. If you be too Lee ward, get all your Tacks aboard, and shape your Course as he doth, to meet him at the nearest Angle you can, than he must either alter his Course, and Tack as you Tack as near the wind as he can lie, to keep his own till night, and then strike a Hull, that you may not descry him by his Sails, or do his best to lose you in the dark; for look how much he falls to Lee ward, he falls so much in your way. If he be right a-head of you, that is called a Stern-chase, if you weather him, for every man in chase doth seek to get tlie Wether, because you cannot board him, except you weather him, he will las●, or go large, if you gather on him that way, he will try you before the Wind; then if your Ordnance cannot reach him, if he can outstrip you, he is gone. But suppose you are to Windward, if he clap close by a wind, and there goes a-head-Sea, and yours a Lee-ward Ship, if you do the like your Ship will so bear against the Sea, she will make no way; therefore you must go a little more large, though you chase under his Lee till you can run a head. Board and Board, is when two Ships lie together side by Board and board. side, but he that knoweth how to defend himself, and work well, will so cun his Ship, as force you to enter upon his quarter, which is the highest part of the Ship, and but the Mizzen Shrowds to enter by, from whence he may do you much hurt with little danger, except you fire him, which a Pirate will never do, neither sink you, if he can choose, except you be able to force him to defend himself. But in a Sea-fight we call Boarding, in Boarding where we can; the greatest advantage for your Ordnance, is to board him thwart the Hawse, because you may use all the Ordnance you have on one side, and she only them in her Prow; but the best and safest boarding for entering, is on the Bow, but you Boarding and entering a Ship must be careful to clear the Decks with burning Granades, Fire-pots, Pouches of Powder, to which give fire by a Gunpowder Match, to prevent Trains to the Powder-chest; which Powder-chests are long Board's joined like a Triangle, with divers broad ledges on either side, wherein lieth as many Pibble stones or Beatch as can there lie; those being fired, will make all clear before them. Besides, in an extremity a man would rather blow up the quarter-Deck, half-Deck, Forecastle, or any thing, than be taken by him he knows a mortal Enemy; and commonly there are more men lost in entering, if the Chase stand to her defence, in an instant, than in a long Fight, board and board, if she be provided of her close Fights. I confess, the charging upon Trenches, and the entrances of a Breach in a Rampire, are Attempts as desperate as a man would think could be performed, but he that hath tried himself as oft in the entering a resting Ship as I have done both them and the other, he would surely confess there is no such dangerous Service ashore, as a resolved resolute Fight at Sea. A Ships close Fights, are small ledges of Wood laid cross one another like the Grates of Iron in a Prisons-window, betwixt the main Mast, and the Foremast, and are called Gratings, or Netting, as is said, which are made of small Ropes, much in like manner, covered with a Sail; the which to undo, is to heave a Kedger, or fix a Grappling into them, tied in a Rope, but a Chain of Iron is better, and shearing off will tear it in pieces, if the Rope and Anchor hold; some have used Sheer-hooks, which are Hooks like Sickles fixed in the ends of the Yards-arms, that if a Ship under sail come to board her, those Shears will cut her Shrowds, and spoil her Tackling; but they are so subject to break their own Yards, and cut all the Ropes comes from the Topsails, they are out of request. To conclude, if a Ship be open, presently to board her, is the best way to take her. But if you see your Chase strip himself into fight Evident signs that a Chase will fight. Sails, that is, to put out his Colours in the Poop, his Flag in the Maintop, his Streamers or Pendants at the ends of his Yards-arms, furl his Spretsail, pike his Mizzen, and sling his Main yard, provide yourself to fight. Now because I would not be tedious in describing a Fight at Sea, I have troubled you with this short Preamble, that you may the plainlier understand it. CHAP. XIII. How to Manage a Fight at Sea, with the proper Terms in a Fight largely expressed, and the ordering of a Navy at Sea. FOR this Masterpiece of this Work, I confess I might do better to leave it to every particular man's conceit as it is, or those of longer practice or more experience, yet because I have seen many Books of the Art of War by Land, and never any for the Sea, seeing all men so silent in this Many Books of the Art of War for the Land, none for the Sea. most difficult service, and there are so many young Captains, and others that desire to be Captains, who know very little, or nothing at all to any purpose, for their better understanding I have proceeded thus far; now for this that follows, what I have seen, done, and conceived by my small experience, I refer me to their friendly constructions, and well advised considerations. A Sail, how bears she or stands she, to Windward or Lee-ward; set him by the Compass; he stands right a head, or on the Weather-Bow, or Lee Bow, let fly your colours if you have a comfort, else not. Out with all your Sails, a steady man to the helm, sit close to keep her steady, give him chase To give chase. or fetch him up; he holds his own, no, we gather on him. Captain, outgoes his Flag and Pendants, also his Waste Waste Clothes. Top-armings. Clothes and Top-armings, which is a long red Cloth about three quarters of a yardbroad, edged on each side with Calico or white Linen Cloth, that goeth round about the Ship on the outsides of all her upper works fore and aft, and before the Cubbridge heads, also about the fore and main Tops, as well for the countenance and grace of the Ship, as to cover the men from being seen, he furles and slings his Main-yard, in goes his Spret-sall. Thus they use to strip themselves into their short Sails, or Fight Sails, which is Fight Sails. To hale a Ship. only the Fore sail, the Main and Fore top Sails, because the rest should not be fired nor spoiled; besides they would be troublesome to handle, hinder our sights and the using our Arms; he makes ready his close Fights fore and aft. Master, how stands the Chase? Right on head I say; Well How to begin a Fight. we shall reach him by and by; What's all ready? Yea, yea, every man to his Charge, dowse your Topsail to salute him for the Sea, hale him with a noise of Trumpets: Whence is your Ship? Of Spain: Whence is yours? Of England: Are you a Merchant, or a Man of War? We are of the Sea. He waves us to Leeward with his drawn Sword, calls amain for the King of Spain, and springs his Loufe, give him a Chase-piece with your Broadside, and run a good birth a head of him; Done, done. We have the wind of him, and he tacks about, Tack you about also, and keep your Loufe, be you're at the helm, edge in with him, give him a volley of small shot, also your Prow and Broadside as before, and keep your Loufe; He pays us shot for shot; Well, we shall requite him; What are you ready again? Yea, yea. Try him once more, as before: Done, done: Keep your Loufe, and load your Ordnance again: Is all ready? Yea, yea; edge in with him again, begin with your Bow pieces, proceed with your Broadside, and let her fall off with the wind, to give her also your full Chase, your Weather-Broadside, and bring her round that the Stern may also discharge, and your Tacks close aboard again: Done, done, the wind veers, the Sea goes too high to board her, and we are shot through and through, and between wind and water. Try the Pump, bear up the Helm; Master, let us breath and refresh a little, and How to sling a man over Board. sling a man overboard to stop the Leaks; that is, to trufs him up about the middle in a piece of Canvas, and a rope to keep him from sinking, and his arms at liberty, with a Malet in the one hand, and a Plug lapped in Okum, and well Tarred in a Tarpawling-clout in the other, which he will quickly beat into the hole or holes the Bullets made; What cheer Mates? is all well? All well, all well, all well; Then make ready to bear up with him again, and withal your great and small shot charge him, and in the smoke board him thwart the Hawse, on the Bow, mid-Ships, or rather than fail, on his Quarter, or make fast your grapplings if you can to his close Fights and shear off. Captain, we are fowl on each other, and the Ship is on fire, cut any thing to get clear, and smother the fire with wet Clothes. In such a case they will presently be such friends, as to help one the other all they can to get clear, lest they both should burn together and sink; and if they be generous, the fire quenched, drink kindly one to another; heave their Cans overboard, and then begin again as before. Well, Master, the day is spent, the night draws on, let A consultation and direction. in a Sea-fight, and how they, bury their dead. us consult. Chirurgeon, look to the wounded, and wind up the slain, with each a weight or Bullet at their Heads and Feet to make them sink, and give them three Guns for their Funerals. Swabber, make clean the Ship; Purser record their Names: Watch, be vigilant to keep your birth to windward that we lose him not in the night: Gunners, sponge your Ordnance; Soldiers, scour your Pieces: Carpenters, about your Leaks; Boatswain and the rest, repair the Sails and Shrowds; and Cook, you observe your directions against the Morning watch: Boy, Holla Master, Holla, is the Kettle boiled? Yea, yea: Boatswain, call up the men to Prayer and Breakfast. Boy, fetch my Cellar of Bottles, a Health to you all fore and A preparation for a fresh Charge. aft, courage my hearts for a fresh Charge; Gunners, beat open the Ports, and out with your lower Tire, and bring me from the Wether side to the Lee, so many Pieces as we have Ports to bear upon him. Master, lay him aboard Loufe for Loufe; Mid-ships men, see the Tops and Yards well Manned, with Stones, Fire pots, and Brass-bails, to throw amongst them, before we enter, or if we be put off, charge them with all your great and small shot, in the smoke let us enter them in the Shrowds, and every Squadron at his best advantage; so sound Drums and Trumpets, and St. George for England. They hang out a Flag of Truce, hale him a main, a base, or How a prize doth yield, and how to 〈◊〉 him Seaman like take in his Flag, strike their Sails and come aboard with their Captain, Purser and Gunner, with their Commission, Coaker, or Bills of Loading. Out goes the Boat, they are launched from the Shipside, entertain them with a general cry, God save the Captain and all the Company, with the Trumpets sounding, examine them in particular, and then conclude your conditions, with feasting, freedom, or punishment, as you find occasion; but always have as much care to their Wounded as your own, and if there be either young Women or Aged-men, use them nobly, which is ever the nature of a generous disposition. To conclude, if you surprise him, or enter perforce, you may stow the men, rifle, pillage, or sack, and cry a Prize. To call a Council of War in a Fleet: There is your Council How to call a Counsel of War, and order a Navy at Sea. of War to manage all businesses of import, and the Common Council for matters of small moment, when they would have a meeting, where the Admiral doth appoint it; if in the Admiral, they hang but a Flag in the main Shrowds; if in the Vice Admiral, in the Fore-shrowds; if in the Rear-Admiral, in the Mizzen: If there be many Squadrons, the Admiral of each Squadron upon sundry occasions doth carry in their main-Tops, Flags of sundry Colours, or else they are distinguished by several Pendants from the Yard-arms; every night or morning they are to come under the Lee of the Admiral to salute him and know his pleasure, but no Admiral of any Squadron is to bear his Flag in the main Top, in the presence of the Admiral-General, except the Admiral come aboard of him to Council; to Dinner, or Collation, and so any Ship else where he so resideth during that time, is to wear his Flag in the main Top. They use to martial or order those Squadrons in ranks like Manaples, which is four square, if the Wind and Sea permits, a good birth of distance from each other, that they becalm not one another, nor come not foul of each other; the General commonly in the midst, his Vice Admiral in the front, and his Rear Admiral in the Rear; or otherwise like a half Moon, which is two Squadrons like two Triangles for the two Horns, and so the rest of the Squadrons behind each other a good distance, and the General in the midst of the half Circle, from whence he seeth all his Fleet, and sendeth his directions, as he finds occasion to whom he pleaseth. Now between two Navies they use often, especially in a Harbour or Road where they are at Anchor, to fill old Barks with Pitch, Tarr, train-oil, Lynseed-oyl, Brimstone, Rozin, Reeds, with dry Wood, and such Combustible things, sometimes they link three or four together in the night, and put them adrift as they find occasion. To pass a Fort some will make both Ships and Sails all black, but if the Fort keep but a fire on the other side, and all the pieces point blank with the fire, if they discharge what is betwixt them and the fire, the shot will hit, if the Rule be truly observed; for when a Ship is betwixt the fire and you she doth keep you from seeing it till she be past it. To conclude there is as many stratagems, advantages, and inventions to be used as you find occasions, and therefore experience must be the best Tutor. CHAP. XIV. How they divide their shares in a man of War, what Books and Instruments are fit for a Seaman, with divers advertisements for Sea men, and the use of the Petty Tally. THe Ship hath one third part. The Victualler the other third. The other third part is for the Company, and this is subdivided thus in shares. Shares. The Captain hath 10 In some but 9 Shares. The Lieutenant 9 or as he agreeth with the Captain. The Master 8 In some but 7 Shares. The Mates 7 5 Shares. The Chirurgeon 6 3 Shares. The Gunner 6 5 Shares. The Boatswain 6 5 Shares. The Carpenter 6 5 Shares. The Trumpeter 6 5 Shares. The 4 quarter Masters 5— a piece, or 4 Shares. The Cooper 5 4 Shares. The Chirurgeons Mate 5 4 Shares. The Gunner's Mate 5 4 Shares. The Carpenter's Mate 5 4 Shares. The Corporal 4 3 Shares. The quarter Gunners 4 3 Shares. The Trumpeters Mate 3 3— ½ Shares. The Steward 4 3 Shares. The Cook 4 3 Shares. The Coxswain 4 3 Shares. The Swabber 4 3 Shares. In English Ships they seldom use any Marshal, whose shares amongst the French is equal with the Boatswains, all the rest of the Younkers, or Fore-mast-men according to their deserts, some three, some two and a half, some one and a half, and the Boys one, which is a single share, or one and a half, or as they do deserve. Now the Master, or his right hand Mate, the Gunner, Boatswain, and four Quarter Masters do make the shares, not the Captain who hath only this privilege, to take away half a share, or a whole share at most, to give from one to another as he best pleaseth. For to learn to observe the Altitude, Latitude, Longitude, Amplitude, the Variation of the Compass, the Suns-Azimuth and Almicanter, to shift the Sun and Moon, and know the Tides, your Rombs, prick your Card, say your Compass, get some of these Books, but practice is the best. Master wright's Errors of Navigation. Master Taps Seaman's Calendar. The Art of Navigation. The Sea Regiment. The Seaman's Secret. Master Gunter's Works. The Seaman's Glass for the Seal. The New Attractive for Variation. Master Wright for use of the Globe. Master Hewes for the same. Instruments fitting for a Seaman, Compasses so many Pair and Sorts as you will, an Astrolabe Quadrant, a Crossstaff, a Back staff, an Astrolabe, a Nocturnal. A young Gentleman that desires command at Sea, ought well Advertisements for young Commanders, Captains, and other Officers. to consider the condition of his Ship, Victuals, and Company, nor must there be more Learners than Sailors, how slightly soever many esteem Sailors, for all the work to save Ship, Goods and lives must lie upon them, especially in foul weather, than their labour, hazard, wet and cold is so incredible I cannot express it. It is not then the number of them that here can say at home, what I cannot do I can quickly learn, and what a great matter it is to Sail a Ship, or go to Sea; surely those for some time will do more trouble than good, I confess it is most necessary such should go, but not too many in one Ship, for if the labour of threescore should lie upon thirty, (as many times it doth) they are so overcharged with labour, bruises, and over-straining themselves they fall Sick of one disease or other, for there is no dallying nor excuses with Storms, Gusts, overgrown Seas, and Lee-shores, and when their victuals is putrified it endangers all: Men of all other professions in Lightning, Thunder, Storms and Tempests, with Rain and Snow, may shelter themselves in dry houses by good fires, but those are the chief times Seamen must stand to their Tackling, and attend with all diligence their greatest labour upon the Decks. Many suppose any thing is good enough to serve men at Sea, and yet nothing sufficient for them ashore, either for their healths, for their ease, or estate; A Commander at Sea should do well to think the contrary, and provide for himself and company in like manner; also seriously to consider what will be his charge to furnish himself at Sea with Bedding, Linen, Arms, and Apparel, how to keep his Table aboard, and his expenses on shore, and provide his Petty-Tally, The Petty-Tally. which is a competent proportion (according to your number) of these particulars following. Fine wheat flower close and well packed, Rice, Currant, Sugar, Prunes, Gynamon, Ginger, Pepper, Cloves, greenginger, Oil, Butter, Holland-Cheese, or old Cheese, Wine, vinegar, Canary Sack, Brandy, the best Wines, the best Water, the juice of Limmons for the 〈◊〉, white Biscuit, Oatmeal, Gammons of Bacon, dried Neat's tongues, Beef packed up in Vinegar, Legs of Mutton, minced and flewed, and close packed up, with tried Suet or Butter in earthen pots. To entertain Strangers, Marmalade, Suckets, Almonds, Comfits and such like. Some it may be will say I would have men rather to feast than sight; But I say the want of those necessaries occasion the loss of more men than in any English Fleet hath been slain since 88 For when a man is ill, or at the point of death, I would know whether a dish of buttered Rice with a little Cinnamon, Ginger, and Sugar, a little minced meet, or roast Beef, a few stewed Prunes, a race of green Ginger, a Flapjack, a Can of fresh water brewed with a little Cinnamon, and Sugar, be not better than a little Poor John, or Salt Fish with Oil and Mustard, or Biscuit, Butter, Cheese, or Oatmeal-pottage on Fish-days, or on Flesh days Salt Beef, Pork and Pease with six shillings beer, this is your ordinary Ships allowance, and good for them that are well if well conditioned which is not always, as Seamen can (too well) witness. And after a storm, when poor men are all wet, and some have not so much as a cloth to shift them, shaking with cold, few of those but will tell you, a little Sack or Brandy is much better to keep them in health, than a little small Beer or cold water although it be sweet. Now that every one should provide things for himself, few of them have either that providence or means, and there is neither Alehouse Tavern, nor Inn to burn a Faggot in, neither Grocer, Poulterer, Apothecary, nor Butcher's Shop, and therefore the use of this Petty Tally is necessary, and thus to be employed as there is occasion. To entertain Strangers, as they are in quality every Commander should show himself as like himself as he can, as well for the credit of the Ship, and his Setters forth as himself; but in that herein every one may moderate themselves according to their own pleasures, therefore I leave it to their own discretions, and this brief Discourse, and myself to their friendly construction, and good opinion. CHAP. XV. An Alphabetical Table of the Names of all the Parts or Members of a Ship, and its Appurtenances, with the Number of the Page in which the Term (or Word) here formed, is Explained at Large. A AWning Page. 26 An Anchors. Shank Flock Shoulder Beam Eye Ring Socket — 29 Anchor, Sheat Anchor, stream Anchors, 1, 2, 3 Bow Anchor 29 A loof, keep your loof 37 B BUttocks 4 Billage 4 Beds 5 But-ends 4 Bluffe 4 Beams 5 Bend vide Wale 6 Bolts, viz — Ring — Set — Clinch — Rag — Forelock — Fend — Drive — 5 Bow, broad-Bowe narrow-Bowe 9 Beak, Beakhead 10 Bits 10 Block; Fish-block 11 Bulk, Bulks head 11 Brackets 11 Bittacle 11, 12 Barnacles 13 Broming, or Breaming 13 Blocks, double-Blocks, vide Pulleys 19 Block-snap 20 Brales 22 Braces 22 Bolings, Boling-bridles, the Bolins, check the Bowling, 23 Bent 23 Bouse 24 Bonnet 24 Boat, a Longboat 26 Bails 26 Bail or Free 27 Boat, Trim-Boat, Wind Boat, Hold water, Forbear 27 Bite, Bitter, Bitters End 30 Brestfast 30 Foye, or Boys, Can-Boyes 31 Bonnet 31 Ballast, to trench Ballast 32 Boatswain and his Mate 35 Bear, Bear in, Bear off, Bear up. 44 Breeze 46 Boarding 57 C CRadle 1 Carling, Carling Knees 7 Commings 7 Capstain, Bars 7 Jeer Capstain 8 Crab 2 Clamps 6 Culvertail 7 Comb 10 Crospiece 10 Cat 11 Cubbridge head 11 Counter, upper and lower 11 Cabin, great Cabin 11 Compass, Dark Compass 11 Variation Compass 12 Cat-holes 12 Calking, Calking-Irons 13 Careene 13 Cotes 16 Cheeks 16 Cap 16 Cordage, vide Rigging 18 Choler 18 Crows-feets 18 Cock 19 Chains 19 Can-hooks 21 Creengles 22 Clew 22 Caburn 24 Caskets 25 Cable, 1, 2, 3 Splice a Cable, a Shot of Cable, Quolle 〈◊〉 Cable, Fake a Cable, Pay more Cable, Pay cheap a Cable, End for End, Bend Unbend a Cable 30 Course, main-Course, Fore-Course 31 Clew of a Sail 32 Coins, Canting-Coines, standing Coins 33 Captain 34 Chirurgeon, and his Mate 34 Cap-Merchant 34 Carpenter and his Mate 34 Corporal 35 Cooper and his Mate 36 Coxswain and his Mate 36 Cook and his Mate 36 Cunning 37 Calm, 46 be Calmed 47 Chase, to give Chase 59 D DOck 1 — Wet 1 — Dry 1 Deck, half-Deck, quarter-Deck, flash Deck, cambered Deck 6 Daile 8 David 10 Deadman's Eye 18 Drabler 24 Drabblers 31 Disimbogue 43 Drift, a Drift 43 E Earing 23 Ease 37 Eddy wind 46 Ebbs 47 Entering 57 F FIsh-Block Fashion 2 Floor 3 Forecastle 9 Feather, Cut a Feather 10 Free or Bail 27 Fenders 30 Flown 39 Fly 39 Founder, Foundering 40 Floods 47 G GArbord 3 Gallery 9 Gudgeons 12 Gun, Gun-Room 12 Graveing 13 Guy 20 Garnet, Clew Garnet 22 Goaring 22 Gang 27 Gert 30 Grateings 32 Goring of a Sail 32 Gear 37 Gunner and his Mate 34 Goose-wing 41 Gust 46 Gale, a fresh Gale, a Loom-Gale 46 H HOoks — Foot 3 Howle 3 Hull 4 Hatches, Scuttle Hatch 7 Hanses 10 Hounds 16 Hawser 20 Harpings, Catharpings 20 Halyares 20 Horse 21 Head-lines 21 Hooke-loof-Hook 24 Hitch 30 Hull 40 Hullocks 41 Hold off 44 Hurricane 47 I JUnkes 30 K KEel 2 Keelson 3 Knees 5 Knight, fore-Knight, main-Knight 7 Knevels 7 Knettels 24 Knot, a Wall Knot, a boling Knot, a sheep shank Knot 25 Kedgers, and Kedging 29 Keckle 30 L LImber 2 Loop, Loopholes 7 Ladder, Entering-Ladder, Gallery-Ladder, Boltsprit-Ladder 9 Loof 9 Lockers 12 Lannier 18 Lines, head-Lines 21 Furling Lines, Smiteing Line Bunt Lines, Clew Limbs, 22 Leech Line 23 Knave Line 24 Lee-Fangs 23 Leech of a Sail 23, 32 Lifts, Top the Lifts 23 Legs 23 Latchets 24 Lashing 24 Liar 36 Lieutenant 36 Larboard 37 Labour 40 Large 41 Laske 41 Line, Dipsea-line, Log-line, 43 Sounding-line 44 Land, Land to kenning, to lay a Land, Good Land fall, Bad Land fall, a head Land, a Point of Land, a Land mark, to raise a Land, to make a Land 43 Land locked 44 Lead 44 M MOuld 3 Manger 10 Masted, over Masted, Taunt Masted, under-Masted, a made-Mast, or Arm-Mast, Mast steps; spend a Mast, spring a Mast 40 Martnets 23 Mats 24 Marling, Marling-spike 25 Master and his Mate 34 Marshal 35 Moar, Moar cross, Moar alongst, Moar Proviso 45 Moonsoune 47 N NAils, Tree-nails 4 Skupper-nails 9 No near 37 Nealed to 44 O ORlop 5 Okum 13 Observe 42 Offing 44 Overblows 46 P PLanks five 4 Ports 5 Paul 8 Pump, brak-Pump, Can-Pump Chain-Pump, Bar Pump, 3 Suck Pump, Bare Pump 9 Prow 10 Pàying 13 Parsling 13 Partners 16 Pillow 16 Puttocks 19 Barrels 20 Parbunkle 21 Puddings 21 Panch 24 Pilot 34 Purser 34 Port 37 Prithee 37 Pike 37 Pasarado 42 Powder-Chest 57 Q Quarter's 6 Quartermaster 35 Quoynes 64 R RUngs 2 Rung-heads 3 Ribs 3, 20 Run 3 Rake 4 Riders 5 Ramshead 7 Roll 12 Rudder, Rudder-Irons 12 Room, Bread-Room, Cook-Room 12 Rigging, well Rigged, over Rigged 18 Run 19 Ratlings 19 Ropes, Brest-Rope, standing Rope 20 Bolt-Ropes 22 Entering Rope, Bucket-Rope, Bolt-Ropes, Port Ropes, Jear-Ropes, Preventer-Rope, Toprope 27 Keel-Ropes, Rudder Rope, Cat-Rope, Boyrope Boat-Rope, Chest-Rope 28 Robins 21 Reeve, and Reeveing 23 Rousing 31 Rolling 40 Round in, Round aft 42 Reach 43 Road 44 Ride, Ride a great Road, Ride a stress, Ride between Wind and Tide, Ride thwart Tide, Ride a Pike, Ride Cross 44, 45 Rutilio of the Sea 47 Roaring of the Sea 37 Rough Sea 47 S STocks 1 Stem 2 Stern 2, 12 Sweep 3 Skarfing, or Skarfed 3 Sleepers 3 Spurkits 3 Spindle 8 Skupper, Skupper Leathers 9 Sockets 11 Stearage 11 Shiver 19 Shrowds, Taut the Shrouds, Ease the Shrouds 19 Sling or Slings 21 Sheats 22 Sinnet 24 Seizing 24 Seasen 25 Serve, or Service 25 Spunyarn 25 Splice, Spliceing, Room-Splice, Cut Splice 25, 30 Shallop 26 Skiffe 26 Spell 27 Shearing 28 Swifting 28 Stern Fast 30 Shankpainter 31 Stop 31 Sails; Mainsail, Foresail, Main-Top-Sail, fore-Top-Sail, Top gallant Sail, studding-Sails, Mizzen and Mizzen Topsail, Spret, and Spritsail, Topsail, Drift-Sail, Netting-Sail 31 Head Sails, after-Sails 32 Stantions 32 Seam, Monk-Seam, Round-Seam 32 Stowage 33 Shoot 33 Steward 35 Swabber 36 Sailors 36 Steep Tubs 37 Steering 37 Starboard 37 Steady 37 Sheet or Course 39 Spoon 40 Sea, a head Sea 41 Surges 44 Sew, Sewed 45 Spout 46 Storm 46 Sea, a Rough Sea, an overgrown Sea 47 Surges 47 Ship: A wholesome Ship, an unwholesome Ship, Howsing a Ship, Flaring, Crank-sided, Furring, false Keel, Gripe, false Stern, the Run, a good Run, a bad Run, a Stirup, her Rake, her Loom, Heeled, overset, Overthrow, Walt, Wall reared, Iron sick, Trim 52, 53, 54 T TImber, Rising Timber 3 Trunnions 4 Tuck 4 Transome 4 Travas 12 tiler 12 Tarpawling 16, 26 Trees, Cross Trees, Tressel Trees 16 Waist Trees, Rouse Trees 32 Truck 17 Tackle 20 Ties 21 Tacks 22 Thoughts 26 Thowles 26 Tire of Ordnance, as the 1, 2 and 3 Tyre 32 a half Tire 33 Trumpeter 35 Tally 38 Try 40 Trough 40 Tempest 46 Tide, Tide of Ebb, Tide of Flood, a Windward Tide a Leeward Tide, Tide over, Tide gate, Tide, and half Tide 47 Eddy Tide 48 Top Arming 59 V VIol 8 Vea, Vea, Vea, Vea 27 Veer, or the wind Veers Under the Sea 40 W WOoding 4 Wale, Chain-Wale, Gun-Wale 6 Whelps 8 Windas' 8 Waste, Wast boars, Waste Trees 9 Whipstaffe 12 War no more 37 Wether coile 40 Water, dead-Water, Eddy Water, 42 Foul Water 44 Water born, Water Line, Water shot 45 Wirlwind 46 Wast-cloaths 59 Y YArns, Rope-Yarns 24 Younkers 36 You're 37 CHAP. XVI. Another Alphabetical Table, Explaining all the Principal Sea Terms used in work of a Ship in all Winds and Weathers A AFT or Abaft, fromward the Forepart of the Ship, or toward the Stern, as The Mast hangs aft, that is towards the Stern. How cheer ye fore and aft, that is, how fares all your Ships Company. Amain, a Word used by a Man of War to his Enemy, and signifies, Yield. Strike Amain, that is, Lower your Topsails. The Anchor is a peek, that signifies the Anchor is right under the Hawse (or hole) through which the Cable belonging to the Anchor runs out. The Anchor is a Cock-belt, that is, hangs up and down by the Ships side. The Anchor is foul, that is, the Cable is got about the Fluke. An Awning, A Sail or the like, supported like a Canopy over the Deck, to prevent the scorching heat of the Sun in hot Climates. B To bale, to lad Water out of the Ships Hold with Buckets, or the like. Trench the Ballast, divide or separate it. The Ballast shoots, that is, runs over from one side to the other. To bear with the Land, etc. To sail towards it. To bear in, that is, to sail before or with a Wind into a Harbour or Channel. A Piece of Ordnance doth come to bear, that is, lies right with the Mark. Bear up, a term used in conding the Ship, when they would have her sail more before the Wind. Bear up round, put her right before the Wind. To Belage, to make fast any running Rope. To Bend a Cable, is to make it fast. A Birth, a convenient space to moor a Ship in. A Bite, any part of a Rope between the ends. The Bilge, the breadth of the place the Ship rests on when she is a ground. The Ship is bilged, that is, has struck off some of her Timber on a Rock or Anchor, and springs a Leak. A Bittake, that whereon the Compass stands. A Bitter, a turn of a Cable about the Bits. The Bits, two Main-square pieces of Timber, to which the Cables are fastened when the Ship rides at Anchor. A Bonnet, an Addition to another sail, when they fasten it on, they say, Lace on the Bonnet; and when they take it off, Shake of the Bonnet; it is very rarely fastened to any other than the Mizon, Main, Foresail, and Spritsail, and those Sails are called Courses, as Main-course and Bonnet, not Mainsail and Bonnet. A Room, a long Pole used to spread out the Clew of the Studding-sail, etc. Board and Board, a term used when two Ships come so near as to touch one another. To go aboard, to go into a Ship. To make a board, or board it up, is to turn to Windward. To break Bulk, to open the Hold, and take out goods thence. C Careening, is bringing a Ship to lie down on one side while they trim and caulk the other. Caulking, is driving of Ockham, Span-hair, and the like into all the seams of the Ship, to keep out Water. To Chase, is to pursue another Ship, and the Ship so pursued is called the Chase. To Conned or Cun, is to direct or guide, and to cun a Ship is to direct the Person at Helm how to steer her: If the Ship go before the Wind, than he who cuns the Ship uses these terms to him at Helm, Starboard, Larboard, Port, Helm a Mid-ships. Starboard, is to put the Helm to the Starboard, (or right) side, to make the Ship go to the Larboard (or left;) for the Ship always sails contrary to the Helm. In keeping the Ship near the Wind, these terms are used, Loof, Keep your Loof, Fall not off, Veer no more, keep her to, touch the Wind, have a care of the Lee-latch. To make her go more large, they say, Ease the Helm, no near, bear up. To keep her upon the same Point, they use, Steady, or as you go, and the like. The Ship goes Lasking, Quartering, Veering, or Large; are terms of the same signification, viz. that she neither goes by a Wind nor before the wind, but betwixt both. The Course, is that Point of the Compass on which the Ship sails: Also the Sails are called Courses. Cut the Sail, that is, unfurl it, and let it fall down. A sail is well cut, that is, well fashioned. D Dead-water, the Eddy-water at the Stern of the Ship. To Disembogue, is to go out of the Mouth or Straight of a Gulf. To dispart, is to find out the Difference of Diameters of Metals betwixt the breech and mouth of a Piece of Ordnance. The Deck is flush fore and aft, that is, is laid from stem to stern without any falls or risings. E End for End, a Term used when a Rope runs all out of the block, so that it is unreeved; as when a Cable (or Hawser) runs all out at the Hawse, we say, the Cable at the Hawse is run out End for End. F A Fathom, a Measure containing six Feet. A Fack, is one Circle of any Rope or Cable quoiled up round. To farthel (or furl) a Sail, is to wrap it up close together, and bind it with little strings called Caskets, fast to the Yard. To fish a Mast, or Yard, is to fasten a piece of Timber or Plank to the Mast or Yard to strengthen it, which Plank is called a Fish. To lower or strike the Flag, is to pull it down upon the Cap. and in Fight is a token of yielding; but otherwise of great respect. To heave out the Flag, is to wrap it about the Staff. Free the Boat, or Ship, is to bale or pump the water out. G The Ships Gage, is so many Foot as she sinks in the Water; or (to speak now like a Seaman) so many Foot of Water as she draws. Wether Gage, is when one Ship has the Wind (or is to weather) of another. A loom Gale, a little Wind. One Ship gales away from another. In fair weather when there is but little Wind that Ship which hath most Wind and sails fastest is said, to gale away from the other. To greave a Ship, is to bring her to lie dry a ground, to burn off her old filth. The Ship gripes, that is, turns her Head to the Wind more than she should. H To Hale, is the same as to pull To over Hale, is when a Rope is haled too stiff, to hale it the contrary way, thereby to make it more slack. To hail a Ship, is to call to her Company to know whither they are bound, etc. and is done after this manner, Hâa the Ship! or only Hôa! To which they answer Hâe. Also to salute another Ship with Trumpets or the like, is called Hailing. Fresh the Hawse, a term used when that part of the Cable that lies in the Hawse is fretted or chafed, and they would have more Cable veered out, that another part of it may rest in the Hawse. When two Cables that come through two several Hawses are twisted, the untwisting them is called clearing the Hawse. Thwart the Hawse, and rides upon the Hawse, are terms used when a Ship lies thwart or cross, or with her Stern just before, another Ships Hawse. Note, That the Hawses are the great Holes under the Head of the Ship, through which the Cables run when she lies at Anchor. The Ship heels, that is, inclines more to one side than the other, as she heels to Starboard, that is, turns up her Larboard-side to lie down on the Starboard. To Hitch, is to catch hold. The Hold of a Ship, is that part betwixt the Keelson and the lower Deck, where all Goods, Stores, and Victuals do lie. Rummidge the Hold, is used for removing or clearing the Goods and things in the Hole. Stowing the Hold, is when they take goods into the Hold. To Hoist, is to hale or lift up, as Hoist the water in, Hoist up the Yards. Hulling, when a Ship is at Sea, and takes in all her Sails, she is said to Hull. L The Ship Labours, that is, rowls and tumbles much. Land fall, is a term used, when we expect to see Land; as we had a good Land fall, that is made Land (or saw Land,) according to our Reckoning. Land-locked, is when the Land lies round about us, so that no point is open to the Sea. Land-to, A Ship is said to lie Land-to, when she is at so great a distance as only just to discern the Land. To Lash, is to bind, as Lash the Fish on to the Mast, that is bind it to the Master Launch, is to put out, as to Launch a Ship, is to put her forth of the Dock into the water, but it is sometimes likewise used in a Negative sense, as when a Yard is hoist high enough, they usually call aloud Launch-hôe, that is hoist no more. To lay the Land, is to lose sight of it. The Lee shore, is that shore against which the Wind blows. Have a care of the Lee latch, that is take heed the Ship go not too much to Lee-wards. A Ship lies by the Lee, that is, has all her fails lying flat against the Masts and Shrouds. M Mizon Sail, hath several words peculiar to it, as Set the Mizon, that is, fit the Mizon sail; Change the Mizon, that is, bring the Yard to the other side of the Mast; Speak the Mizon, that is, put the Yard right up and down by the Mast; Spell the Mizon, that is, let go the Sheet and peek it up. To moor a Ship, is to lay out her Anchors in such a manner as is most convenient for her to ride by safely. N Neap tides, are the Tides when the Moon is in the second and last Quarter, and they are neither so high, nor so low, nor so swift as the Springtides. A Ship is beneaped, a term used, when the water does not slow high enough to bring a ship from off the ground, or out of a Dock, or over a Bar. O The Offing, that is, fromward the shore, or out into the Sea; as The Ship stands for the Offing, that is, sails from the shore into the Sea. When a Ship keeps the middle of the Channel, and comes not near the shore, she is said to keep in the Offing. Off-ward, is contrary to the shore; as the stern of a Ship lies to the Offward, and her head to the shore-Ward, that is, her stern lies toward the Sea, and her head to the shore. Overset, is turning over, but if a Ship turn over on a side, when she is trimming a ground, it is called overthrown. P To Parcel a seam, is (after the Seam is caulked) to lay over it a narrow piece of Canvas, and pour thereon hot Pitch and Tar. To Pay a seam, is to lay hot Pitch and Tar on (after Caulking) without Canvas. To Ride a Peek, is when the Yards are so ordered, that they seem to make the Figure of St. Andrews Cross. To Purchase, in a Ship bears the same sense as draw many times, as the Capstain purchases apace, that is, draws in the Cable apace. Q Quarter Winds, are when the Wind comes in abast the main-mast-shrouds even with the Quarter. A Quoil, is a Rope or Cable laid up round one Fack over another, and the laying the Fack, is called quoiling. R A Reach, is the Distance between any two points of Land, that lie in a Right-line one from another. To Reeve, is to put a Rope through a Block; and to pull a Rope out of a Block is called unreeving the Rope. To Ride, When a ship's Anchor holds her fast, so that she does not drive with Wind or Tide, she is said to ride at Anchor. To Ride athwart, is to ride with the Ships side to the Tide. To Ride betwixt Wind and Tide, is when the Wind and Title are contrary and have equal strength. To Ride Hawse-fall, is when in a rough Sea the Water breaks into, the Hawses. A Road, is any place near the Land where Ships may ride at Anchor, and a Ship riding there is called a Roader. Rowse-in, (that is, Hale-in) proper only to the Cable or Hawser, and is used when the Cable or Hawser is slack to make it taut or strait. S A Sail. Besides its proper signification (as belonging to the several Yards, from which it takes its various Names, as Mainsail, etc.) it signifies also a Ship, as when at Sea we descry a Ship, we cry out, A sail! A sail! Likewise if we speak of a Fleet (or a number of Ships together) we say the Fleet consisted of 40 or 50 sail, and not 40 or 50 Ships. To Serve a Rope, is to wind something about it, to keep it from fretting out. To Seize, is to make fast, or bind. The Ship seels, that is, when on a sudden she lies down on her side, and tumbles from one side to the other. The Ship sends, that is, her head or stern falls deep in thr trough or hollow of the Sea. To Settle a Deck, is to lay it lower. The Ship is sewed, that is, the Water is gone from her. The Ship shears, that is, goes in and out, and not right forward. To Sound, is to try with a line or other thing how deep the Water is. The Ship hath spent her Masts, that is, her Masts have been broke by foul Wether; but if a Ship lose her Masts in Fight, we say, her Masts were shot by the Board. To Splice Ropes, is to untwist two ends of Ropes, and then twist them both together, and fasten them with binding a string about them. The Sail is split, that is, blown to pieces. The Ship spooms, that is, goes right before the wind without any sail. Spring tides, are the Tides at New and Full-moon, which flow highest and ebb lowest, and run strongest. The Bow-sprit Steeves, that is, stands too upright. Steeving is likewise used by Merchants when they stow Cotton or Wool, which being forced in with screws, they call Steeving their Cotton or Wool. T Tack about, that is, bring the Ships head about to lie the other way. Tallee aft the sheats, a term used for haling aft the sheats of the Main or Foresail. A windward Tide, when the Tide runs against Wind. A Leeward Tide, when the Wind and Tide go both one way. A Tide gate, where the Tide run strong. To Tide it up, is to go with Tide against the Wind, and when the Tide altars to lie at Anchor till it serve again. It flows Tide and half Tide, that is, it will be High-water sooner by three hours at the shore than in the Offing. To Tow, is to drag any thing after the Ship. The Traverse, is the Ships way. V To Veer, is to let out; as veer more Rope, veer more sheet. W The Ship is Walt, that is, wants ballast. To Wether a Ship, is to go to Windward of her. To Wind a Ship, is to bring her head about. How Winds the Ship, that is, upon what point of the Compass does she lie with her head. To Would, is to bind Ropes about a Mast or the like, to keep on a Fish to strengthen it. Y The Ship Yaws, that is, goes in and out, and does not steer steady. OF GUNNERY. BOOK II. Being an Abstract of the Art of Gunnery, (or Shooting in Great Ordnance and Mortar Pieces:) Wherein the Principles of that Art are plainly Taught, both by Arithmetical Calculation, and by Tables ready Calculated. With the Compositions for the making of several Fire Works, useful in War both at Sea and Land. CHAP. I. Wherein is declared the Names of all sorts of Ordnance, and their Appurtenances, with an Explanation of their proper Terms; and divers Observations concerning Shooting in them. A Cannon Royal, a Cannon, a Demi-Cannon, a Culverin, The Names of Ordnance. Demi Culverin, a Saker, a Minion, and divers others: A Table of all which, with their Lengths, Weights, Charges, etc. you have in the Chapter following. To all these belong Carriages, whereon Pieces do lie, Carriages. supported by an Axletree betwixt two Wheels, whereon doth lie the Piece upon her Trunnions, which are two Trunnions. knobs cast with the Piece on each of her sides, which doth lie in two half-holes upon the two Cheeks of the Carriages, to raise her up or down as you will; over them are the Capsquares, Capsquares. which are two broad Pieces of Iron, doth cover them, made fast by a Pin with a fore lock to keep the Piece from falling out. That the Piece and Carriages is drawn along upon Wheels every one doth know, if she be for Land-service, they have Wheels made with Spokes like Coach-wheels, Wheels. and according to their proportions strongly shod with Iron, and the Pins at the ends of the Axletree are called Linchpins. Linchpins. If for Sea she have Trucks, which are round entire Pieces Trucks. To mount a Piece. To dismount a Piece. Beds. Quoines. of wood like Wheels. To mount a Piece is to lay her upon her Carriages; to dismount her, to take her down. Her Bed is a Plank doth lie next the Piece, or the Piece upon it upon the Carriage, and betwixt the Piece and it they put their Quoines, which are great wedges of wood with a little handle at the end to put them forward or backward for levelling the Piece as you please. To Travas a Piece is to turn her which Travas, Dispart. Mouth. Britch. Carnouse. Muzzle. way you will upon her Platform. To dispart a Piece is to find a difference betwixt the thickness of the metal at her mouth and britch, or carnouse, which is the greatest circle about her Britch, and her muzzle Ring is the greatest circle about her mouth, thereby to make a just shot, there are divers ways to dispart her, but the most easiest is as good as the best, and that is but by putting a little stick or a straw that is straight into the Touchhole to the lower part of the Cylinder or Concave, Cylinder. Concave. Boar. which is the Boar of the Piece, and cut it off close by the metal, and then apply it in the same manner to the mouth, and it will exactly show you the difference, which being set upon the muzzle of the Piece with a little Clay, Pitch, or Wax, it How to dispart a Piece. will be as the Pin of any Piece is to the sight, levelly to the Carnouse or Britch of the Piece, otherwise you may give her allowance according to your judgement. Taper bored, is when a Piece is wider at the mouth than Taper bore. towards the britch, which is dangerous (if the Bullet go not home) to burst her. Honycombed, is when she is ill cast, or Honycomb. over much worn, she will be rugged within, which is dangerous for a Cross-bar Shot to catch hold by, or any rag of he wadding being a fire, and sticking there may fire the next Charge you put in her; and you may find it, if she be Taper-bored, How to find it. either with a crooked wire at the end of a long-staff, by scratching up and down to see where you can catch any hold, or a light Candle at the end of a staff thrust up and down to see if you can see any fault. Britchings are the Britchings. Ropes by which you lash your Ordnance fast to the Ships-side in foul weather. Chambers is a Charge made of Brass or Iron, Chambers. which we use to put in at the britch of a Sling or Murderer, containing just so much powder as will drive away the case of stones or shot, or any thing in her. In a great Piece we call that her Chamber, so far as the Powder doth reach when she is loaded. A Cartrage is a Bag of Canvas made upon a frame or Cartrage, a round piece of wood somewhat less than the Boar of the Piece, they make them also of Paper, they have also Cartrages or rather Cases for Cartrages made of Latin to keep the Cartrages in, which is to have no more Powder in them than just the Charge of your Piece, and they are closely covered Cases. in those Cases of Latin, to keep them dry, and from any mischances by fire, and are far more ready and safer A Budg-barrel. than your Ladles or Budgebarrels. A Budgebarrel is a little Barrel made of Latin, filled with Powder to carry from place to place for fear of fire; in the cover it hath a long A Ladle. neck to fill the Ladles withal without opening. A Ladle is a long-staff, with a piece of thin Copper at the end like half a Cartrage, in breadth and length so much as will hold no more Powder than the due Charge for the Piece it belongs to. A Sponge is such another staff, with a Piece of a A Sponge. Lamb's skin at the end about it to thrust up and down the Piece, to take off the dust, moisture, or sparks of fire if A Rammer. any remain in her. And a Rammer is a bob of wood at the other end to ram home the Powder and the Wadding. Wadding Wadding: is Okum, old Clouts, or Straw, put after the Powder and the Bullet. A Case is made of two Pieces of hollow Wood-cases. wood joined together like two half Cartrages fit to put into the Boar of a Piece, and a Case-shot is any kind of small Bullets, Nails, old Iron, or the like to put into the Case to shoot out of the Ordnance or Murderers, these will do much mischief when we lie board and board: but for Sponges and Rammers they use now a stiff Rope a little more than the length of the Piece, which you may turn and wind within board as you will, with much more ease and safety than the other. Round-shot is a round Bullet for any Piece: Cross-bar-shot is also a Round-shot, but it hath a long spike of Iron cast Round-shot. Cross-bar-shot. To arm a shot. with it, as if it did go through the midst of it, the ends whereof are commonly armed for fear of bursting the Piece, which is to bind a little Okum in a little Canvas at the end of each Pike. Trundle-shot is only a bolt of Iron sixteen or eighteen Inches in length; at both ends sharp pointed, Trundle-shot. and about a handful from each end a round broad bowl of lead according to the Boar of the Piece cast upon it. Langrel-shot runs loose with a Shackel, to be shortened when you Langrel-shot. put it into the Piece, and when it flies out it doth spread itself, it hath at the end of either Bar a half Bullet either of Lead or Iron. Chain shot is two Bullets with a Chain betwixt them, and some are contrived round as in a Ball, yet Chain-shot. will spread in flying their full length in breadth; all these are used when you are near a Ship to shoot down Masts, Yards, Shrouds, tear the Sails, spoil the men, or any thing that is above the Decks. Fireworks are divers, and of Fireworks. Arrows of Wildfire. Pikes of Wilp fire. Granades of divers sorts. Brass-Balls. many Compositions, as Arrows trimmed with Wildfire to stick in the Sails or Ships-side, shot, burning. Pikes of Wildfire to strike burning into a Shipe side to fire her. There is also divers sorts of Granades, some to break and fly in abundance of pieces every way, as will your Brass-balls, and Earthen-pots, which when they are covered with Quartered Bullets stuck in Pitch, and the Pots filled with good Powder, in a crowd of people will make an incredible slaughter; some will burn under water, and never extinguish till the stuff be consumed; some only will burn and fume out a most stinking poison smoke; some, being but only an Oil, being anointed on any thing made of dry wood, will take fire by the heat of the Sun when the Sun shines hot. There is also a Powder, which being laid in like manner upon any thing subject to burn, will take fire if either any rain or water light upon it; but those inventions are bad on shore, but much worse at Sea, and are naught because so dangerous, and not easy to be quenched, and their practice worse, because they may do as much mischief to a friend as to an enemy, therefore I will leave them as they are. There are also divers sorts of Powder, the Serpentine is Powder. Serpentine-powder. Gross corned. Powder. Fine corned Powder. like dust and weak, and will not keep at Sea but be moist. The common sort is great corned Powder but gross, and only used in great Ordnance. Your fine corned Powder for hand Guns is in goodness as your Saltpetre is often refined, and from ten pence a pound to eighteen pence a Pound. A Tomkin is a round piece of wood put into the Pieces A Tomkin. A Fid. mouth and covered with Tallow, and a Fid, or Fuse, a little Okum made like a Nail put in at the Touch hole, and covered with a thin Lead bound above it to keep the Powder dry in the Piece. Shackles are a kind of Rings but not round, made Shackles: like them at the Hatches corners (by which we take them up and lay them down) but bigger, fixed to the midst of the Ports within board, through which we put a Billet to keep fast the Port from flying open in foul weather, which may easily endanger, if not sink the Ship. To cloy or poison a Piece, is To cloy a Piece or poison her. To uncloy. to drive a Nail into her Touchhole, than you cannot give fire. And to uncloy her, is to put as much oil as you can about the Nail to make it glib, and by a train give fire to her by her mouth, and so blow it out. Compass Callipers belongs to the Gunner, and is like Compass-Callipers. two half Circles that hath a handle and joint like a pair of Compasses, but they are blunt at the points to open as you please for to dispart a Piece. A Horn is his Touchbox, Horn. Priming Iron. Lintstock. his Primer is a small long piece of Iron, sharp at the small end to pierce the Cartrage through the Touchhole. His Lint stock is a handsome carved stick, more than half a yard long, with a Cock at the one end to hold fast his Match, and a sharp Pike in the other to stick it fast upon the Deck or Gunner's Quadrant. Dark Lantern. Mortars. The names of small Pieces. and their Implements. Bandillers. Bullet-bags. Worms. Scowrers. Melting-Ladles. Lead-Molds. Quartered shot. Platform upright. The Gunner's Quadrant is to levelly a Piece, or mount her to any random. A dark Lantern is as well to be used by any body as he. For Mortars, or such Chambers as are only used for Triumphs, there is no use for them in the service: but for Curriours, Harquebuses, Muskets, Bastard muskets, Colivers, Crabuts, Carbins', long Pistols, or short Pistols, there belong to them Bandiliers, Bullet-bags, Worms, Scowrers, melting-Ladles, Led, Moulds of all sorts to cast their shot. Quarter Bullets is but any Bullet quartered in four or eight parts, and all those are as useful a Shipboard as on shore. For the Soul, Trunk, Boar, Fortification, the diversity of their Metals, and divers other curious Theorems or terms used about great Ordnance, there are so many uncertainties as well in her Mounting, Levelling upon her Platform, as also the accidents that may happen in the Powder, the ground, the air, and differences in proportion, I will not undertake to prescribe any certain Artificial Rule. These proportions following are near the matter, but for your better satisfaction read Master Digs' Pantometria, Master Smith, or Master Bourn's Art of Gunnery, or Master Robert Norton's Exposition upon Master Digs' Stratiaticoes, Nicholas Tartalia, any of those will show the Theory at large. But to be a good Gunner you must learn it by practice. CHAP. II. How a Gunner ought to be Qualified. SUpposing him to be a Christian fearing and serving the true God; and living in good repute and esteem among men. He ought (besides this) to be competently experienced in several Arts and Sciences; and especially in these following. 1. In Arithmetic both Vulgar and Decimal; whereby he may be able to work the Rule of Three (or Golden Rule) both Direct and Reverse, to Extract the Square and Cube-Roots, etc. 2. In Geometry, whereby he may be able to take Heights, Depths, and Distances; To take the true Flat of any Piece of Ground; and thereby to Mine or Countermine under the same, or any part thereof. 3. He ought to be Experienced in making of Ramparts, Cannon, Baskets of Earth, and Fireworks, both for Service and Recreation. 4. He ought to be acquainted with the Names of every member of which a Piece of Ordnance is composed, and to what use every member is appropriated. 5. He ought to know how to search and pry into the conditions of any Gun or Guns committed to his charge: As to know whether truly bored, or taper bored; whether with or without a Chamber; whether free from flaws (or Honey-combs.) To know what quantity of Powder will serve for a due Charge for each Piece, what Shot will fit; how many Matrosses to attend; how many Horses or Oxen will serve to draw any Piece, or (in case they cannot be had) how many men may serve. CHAP. III. Of such Necessary Implements and Instruments as a Gunner that hath charge of Guns or Artillery ought to be furnished with. CArriages, Wheels, Axletrees, Ladles, Rammers, Sheepskins to make Sponges; Gun Powder, Shot, (Plain and Cross Bar, and also Chain-shot), Canvas and Strong Paper to make Cartrages, Fire works, Hand-Spikes, to mount and dismount Pieces; a Dark Lantern, and Budg-Barrels to carry Powder, Stocks, Match, Wedges, Tomkings, Priming-Irons, etc. Also he ought to be furnished with these necessary Instruments: (1) A Gunner's Height-Rule of Wood, or Brass, or Brass-circles, and a Pair or two of Compasses, one Pair with three Points to draw with Black Lead and Ink; and one plain Pair; and also a Pair of Callopirs, to take the Diameter of any Ring or Bullet. (2) A Gunner's Quadrant to levelly, elevate, or depress his Gun; and Engines to try the strength of Powder, etc. CHAP. IU. Cautions that a Gunner ought to observe before he fire his Gun. 1. THAT in breaking up the Head of his Powder-Barrels, he use a Wooden Mallet with his Iron Tool, and not a Hammer, for fear of firing. 2. That he give his Gun its due Charge of Powder, and 〈◊〉 more. And if by trial (before he put in his Charge) he find that his Piece is not truly bored, he must then proportion his Charge according to the thinest side of the Metal, as shall be showed in due place. 3. He is to consider that a long Wad of Hay or untwisted Ropes, will make the Shot shoot wide of the mark. 4. He ought to see the Trunnions are truly seated in the Carriage; whether one Wheel be higher, or reverse faster than the other; whether the Platform be level or not, and also free from Stones or other impediments to hinder the motion of the Wheels. 5. If the Gun he is to discharge, I'll point-blank, or under-Metal, he ought to put in a sufficient Wad after the Shot, to keep it close to the Powder; for if the shot lie not close, the Piece will be subject to break in that vacancy. But if his Piece be mounted to any Elevation, he need not put a Wad after the shot. CHAP. V. Of Gunpowder, and how it hath been made from time to time, and how it is made at this present. ANno 1380 Gunpowder was made of Saltpetre, Brimstone, and Charcoal, of each a like quantity. Anno 1410 it was made of three parts Saltpetre, and two parts of Brimstone and Charcoal. Anno 1480 it was made of Saltpetre eight parts, and of Brimstone and Charcoal each three parts. Anno 1520 it was made of Saltpetre four parts, and of Brimstone and Charcoal each one part. Gunpowder, as it is made in this Age, is compounded of Saltpetre six parts, and of Brimstone and Charcoal of each one part. Musket-powder is now made of Saltpetre five parts, one part of Brimstone, and one of Coal. And Cannon powder of four times as much Saltpetre, as of Coal and Brimstone, agreeable to that was made Anno 1520. A pound of Powder as it is now made, (as it was experimented in five several sorts of Powder here, little differing from each other, but the large corned Powder was the heaviest) one pound will fill thirty one Cubical Inches, and six hundred parts of an Inch. CHAP. VI Of the Names of the several parts or members of a Piece of Ordnance. LEt this Figure represent the Ichnography of any Great Gun or Piece of Ordnance: In which, A B is the Diameter of the Muzzle, the Concave Cylinder, or Bore of the Piece; and the Moulding above that, noted with R S is the Muzzle Ring, or Cornice. C is the Frieze. C D the Neck. E F the Astragal, or Cornice Ring. G H the Reinforced Ring. I K the two Trunnions. L M the Chamber. N the Base Ring, and the Touchhole, marked out to fall just with the end of the Boar. O the Cascabel, or Pummel. P L the Vacant Cylinder from the Charge or Chamber, for the guide of the Shot. M O the Breech. M N the thickness of Metal at the Breech. R is the Dispart, which is a piece of a small stick or Wire, set perpendicularly upon the Muzzle-Ring of any Gun, of such length that the top of it may be equal (in height) to the upper part of the Base Ring. CHAP. VII. Of the several Pieces of Ordnance now in Use. BEfore I proceed to the practice of this Art of Gunnery, I shall give you a brief View of the Names of the several Pieces of Ordnance now in Use in this Nation, as also of four other Pieces used in Holland, and other parts of the Low-Countries; all which the following Table will express at one view. The Table Explained. The Table consisteth of nine Rows or Columes: In the First, Is the Names of all Ordinance now in use. Second, Is the Diameter at the Boar, in Inches and 100 parts of an Inch. Third, Is the Weight of the Piece in Pounds. Fourth, Is the Length of the Piece in Feet, and 100 parts of a Foot. Fifth, Is the Quantity of Powder which will Load the Piece, in Pounds and 100 parts of a Pound. Sixth, Is the Diameter of the Shot for the Piece, in Inches and hundred part of an Inch. Seventh, Is the Shot-weights, in Pounds and hundred parts of a Pound. Eight, Is the Length of the Spoon of the Ladle in Inches and 100 parts. Ninth, Is the breadth of the Plate of the Ladle. First, And here note, That in this Table, the Ladle is but 3 Diameters of the Shot in length, and three fifth parts of the Circumference. Secondly, The Charge of Powder from the Cannon to the A Table wherein is described the Names of all sorts of Ordnance, from the Cannon to the Base; Also the Lengths, Breadths, Weights, Diameters, etc. of Powder, Shot, Ladle, etc. belonging to each Piece. The Names of the several Pieces of Ordnance now in Use. Diameter at the Boar Weight Long The Load Shots Diameter Weight of Shot Length of Ladle Breadth of Ladle Jucl 100 parts Pound wight F c 100 parts pound 100 parts Inch 100 parts pound 100 parts Inch 100 parts Inch 100 parts Cannon. 8.00 8000 12.00 32.50 7.50 58.00 24.00 14.75 Demi Cannon, Extra. 6.75 6000 12.00 18.00 6.62 36.00 22.75 12.0 Demi Cannon, Ordr. 6.50 5600 10.00 11.00 17.50 6.16 32.00 22.00 12.00 Culverin, Extraordinary 5.50 4800 10.00 12.00 13.00 12.50 5.25 20.00 16.00 10.00 Culverin, Ordinary 5.25 4500 12.00 11.37 5.00 17.31 15.00 9.50 Culverin of the least size 5.00 4000 12.00 10.00 4.75 14.90 14.25 9.00 Demi Culverin, Extraordinary 4.75 3000 10.00 12.00 13.00 8.50 4.50 12.69 13.50 8.50 Demi-Culvering Ordinary 4.50 2700 10.00 7.25 4.25 10.26 12.75 8.00 Demi-Culvering of the lesser size 4.25 2000 9.00 10.00 6.25 4.00 9.00 12.00 8.00 Saker, Extraordina. 4.00 1800 9.00 10.00 5.00 3.75 7.31 11.00 7.25 Saker, Ordinary 3.75 1500 9.00 4.00 3.50 6.00 10.50 6.75 Saker of the least size 3.50 1400 8.00 ●: 27 3.25 4.75 9.75 6.50 Minion, Large 3.25 1000 8.00 3.25 3.00 3.75 9.00 5.00 Minion, Ordinary 3.00 750 7.00 2.50 2.92 3.25 8.50 5.00 Falcon 2.75 750 7.00 2.25 2.58 2.50 8.25 4.50 Fauconet 2.25 400 6.00 1.25 2.01 1.31 7.50 4.00 Rabonet 1.50 200 5.50 0.75 1.28 0.50 4.25 2.50 Bale 1.25 200 ●. 50 0.50 1.13 0.50 4.00 2.00 whole Culverin is allowed to be about two Diameters of the Boar of the Piece. The Charge from the Culverin to the Minion, two Diameters and a half. And from the Minion to the Base, three Diameters. CHAP. VIII. How to find the Diameter of any Round Shot or Bullet, by knowing the Circumference: Or, By having the Circumference of a Shot, to find the Diameter. I. Mechanically. Gird the Shot about with a Tape, or piece of narrow Ribbon; then divide the length of that Line or Girt into 22 equal parts, and 7 of those parts shall be the Diameter: So, if a Shot be 37 Inches about, the Diameter will be found to be 11 Inches 3 quarters, and somewhat more. But if the Diameter were given, and the Circumference were required: Then divide the Diameter into 7 equal parts, and three times the Diameter, and one of the seven parts added to it, shall be equal to the Circumference: These ways are troublesome, wherefore another way to find the Diameter of any Round Shot, or the Ring of a Gun, is by a pair of Calloper Compasses, which are Compasses bowed at the Points, I need not describe them, they are known well enough; but this work may be performed by the following Table for finding the length of a Dispart, and the Diameter or Circumference of any Ring of a Gun or Shot, etc. I. The Circumference of any Ring or Bullet, given to find the Diameter. Find the Circumference of the Ring or Bullet in Inches and tenths of Inches in the first Column and head of the Table, and against the Inches in the first Column, and under the tenths of an Inch at the head of the Table, you hand the Diameter in Inches, and 100 parts of an Inch. Exam. Let the Circumference of a Ring or Shot be 23 Inches and 4 tenth parts of an Inch. Look for 23 in the first Column, and against it, under 4 in the head of the Table is 7. 45 which is 7 Inches, and 45 hundred parts of an Inch, for the Diameter. II. The Diameter given, to find the Circumference. Look for the length of the Diameter given, among the Figures in the Table, and what number stands against it in the first Column, for they are the whole Inches in the Circumference; also see what Figure stands over them, at the head of the Table, for those are the tenths of Inches of the Circumference. Example. Let the Diameter of a Shot be 7 Inches, and 7 tenths, or 70 hundreds, of an Inch. Look for this number 7. 70 in the Table, and against it in the first-Column you have 24 Inches, and 2 at the head of the Table; so that the Circumference is 24 Inches and 2 tenth parts of an Inch. Again, if the Diameter given were 13 Inches 62 hundred parts of an Inch, I look in the Table for 13. 62 and I find that 42 stands against it, in the first Column, and 8 over head; wherefore I conclude the Circumference to be 42 Inches, and 8 tenth parts of an Inch. And this is either the Circumference or Diameter exactly and easily found by the following Table, for all Rings or Shot whose Circumference do not exceed 54 Inches. III. By Arithmetic. This being a thing so necessary for a Gunner to know, I will show how it may be done Arithmetically. The Proportion of the Diameter of any Circle, is to the Circumference thereof (according to Archimedes) as 7 is to 22, and that was the reason that in the former ways you divided the Circumference into 22 equal parts, and took 7 of them for the Diameter. But since Archimedes, other numbers have been found nearer the truth, viz. 113 and 355. Wherefore, 1. By the Diameter to find the Circumference. As 113 is to 355:: so is the length of any Diameter (suppose 23 Inches 31 hundred parts) to 73. 53, that is, 73 Inches, and 53 hundred parts of an Inch, for the Circumference. The Arithmetical Work. 2. To find the Diameter: 2. By the Circumference to find the Diameter. As 355 is to 113:: So is any Circumference, (suppose 1625 Inches 25 hundred parts) to 516. 77 ferè. The Arithmetical Work. That is 516 Inches, and 77 hundred parts of an Inch (which is a small matter above 3 quarters of an Inch) for the Diameter; and according to this Rule is the following Table Calculated. CHAP. IX. A TABLE showing how to find the Diameter of any Circle or Ring of a Gun not exceeding 54 Inches: Of excellent use for the easy and exact finding of the length of the Dispart of any Gun: As also of the Diameter of any Shot or Bullet: without Callopers, and also of Granada-Shells. Tenth Parts of Inches. Inches. 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 The Circumference of the Ring or Bullet in the Inches. 0 0. 00 0. 03 0. 06 0. 09 0. 13 0. 16 0. 19 0. 22 0. 25 0. 29 1 0. 32 0. 35 0. 38 0. 41 0. 44 0. 48 0. 51 0. 54 0. 57 0. 60 2 0. 64 0. 67 0. 70 0. 73 0. 76 0. 80 0. 83 0. 85 0. 89 0. 92 3 ●. 95 0. 98 0. 91 1. 05 1. 08 1. 11 1. 15 1. 18 1. 21 1. 24 4 1. 27 1. 30 1. 34 1. 37 1. 40 1. 43 1. 46 1. 50 1. 53 1. 56 5 1. 59 1. 62 1. 65 1. 68 1. 72 1. 75 1. 78 1. 81 1. 85 1. 88 6 1. 91 1. 94 1. 97 2. 00 2. 03 2. 07 2. 10 2. 13 2. 16 2. 19 7 2. 23 2. 26 2. 29 2. 32 2. 36 2. 39 2. 42 2. 45 2. 48 2. 51 8 2. 55 2. 58 2. 61 2. 64 2. 67 2. 71 2. 74 2. 77 2. 80 2. 83 9 2. 86 2. 90 2. 93 2. 96 3. 00 3. 02 3. 06 3. 09 3. 12 3. 15 10 3. 18 3. 21 3. 25 3. 28 3. 31 3. 34 3. 37 3. 41 3. 44 3. 47 11 3. 50 3. 53 3. 56 3. 60 3. 63 3. 66 3. 69 3. 72 3. 75 3. 79 12 3. 82 3. 85 3. 88 3. 91 3. 95 3. 98 4. 01 4. 04 4. 07 4. 11 13 4. 14 4. 17 4. 20 4. 23 4. 26 4. 30 4. 33 4. 36 4. 39 4. 42 14 4. 46 4. 49 4. 52 4. 55 4. 58 4. 62 4. 65 4. 68 4. 71 4. 74 15 4. 77 4. 80 4. 83 4. 87 4. 90 4. 93 4. 97 5. 00 5. 03 5. 06 16 5. 09 5. 12 5. 16 5. 19 5. 22 5. 25 5. 28 5. 31 5. 34 5. 37 17 5. 41 5. 44 5. 47 5. 51 5. 64 5. 67 5. 60 5. 63 5. 67 5. 70 18 5. 73 5. 76 5. 79 5. 82 5. 86 5. 89 5. 92 5. 95 5. 98 6. 01 19 6. 05 6. 08 6. 11 6. 14 6. 17 6. 21 6. 24 6. 27 6. 30 6. 33 20 6. 37 6. 39 6. 43 6. 46 6. 49 6. 52 6. 56 6. 59 6. 62 6. 65 21 6. 6● 6. 72 6. 75 6. 78 6. 81 6. 84 6. 88 6. 91 6. 94 6. 97 22 7. 00 7. 03 7. 07 7. 10 7. 13 7. 16 7. 19 7. 22 7. 26 7. 29 23 7. 37 7. 35 7. 38 7. 42 7. 45 7. 48 7. 51 7. 54 7. 58 7. 61 24 7. 64 7. 67 7. 70 7. 73 7. 77 7. 80 7. 83 7. 86 7. 89 7. 93 25 7. 96 7. 99 8. 02 8. 05 8. 08 8. 12 8. 15 8. 18 8. 21 8. 24 26 8. 28 8. 31 8. 24 8. 37 8. 40 8. 44 8. 47 8. 50 8. 53 8. 56 27 8. 59 8. 63 8. 66 8. 69 8. 72 8. 75 8. 79 8. 81 8. 85 8. 88 28 8. 91 8. 94 8. 98 9 00 9 04 9 07 9 10 9 13 9 17 9 20 29 9 23 9 26 9 29 9 33 9 36 9 39 9 42 9 45 9 49 9 52 30 9 55 9 58 9 61 9 65 9 68 9 71 9 74 9 77 9 80 9 84 31 9 87 9 90 9 93 9 96 10. 00 10. 03 10. 06 10. 09 10. 12 10. 15 32 10. 18 10. 22 10. 25 10. 29 10. 31 10. 34 10. 38 10. 41 10. 44 10. 47 33 10. 51 10. 54 10. 57 10. 60 10. 63 10. 66 10. 70 10. 73 10. 76 10. 79 34 10. 82 10. 85 10. 89 10. 92 10. 95 11. 98 11. 01 11. 04 11. 08 11. 11 35 11. 14 11. 17 11. 20 11. 24 11. 27 11. 30 11. 33 11. 36 11. 39 11. 43 36 11. 46 11. 49 11. 52 11. 55 11. 59 11. 62 11. 65 11. 68 11. 71 11. 75 37 11. 78 11. 81 11. 84 11. 87 11. 90 11. 94 11. 97 12. 00 12. 03 12. 06 38 12. 10 12. 12 12. 16 12. 19 12. 22 12. 25 12. 28 12. 32 12. 35 12. 38 39 12. 41 12. 45 12. 48 12. 51 12. 54 12. 57 12. 60 12. 64 12. 67 12. 70 40 12. 73 12. 76 12. 79 12. 83 12. 90 12. 89 12. 92 12. 95 12. 98 13. 02 41 13. 05 13. 08 13. 15 13. 18 13. 21 13. 24 13. 27 13. 30 13. 30 13. 34 42 13. 37 13. 40 13. 43 13. 46 13. 50 13. 53 13. 56 13. 59 13. 62 13. 65 43 13. 69 13. 72 13. 75 13. 78 13. 81 13. 85 13. 88 13. 91 13. 94 13. 97 44 14. 00 14. 04 14. 07 14. 10 14. 13 14. 16 14. 20 14. 23 14. 26 14. 29 45 14. 33 14. 36 14. 39 14. 42 14 45 14. 48 14. 51 14. 55 14. 58 14. 61 46 14. 64 14. 67 14. 70 14. 74 14. 76 14. 80 14. 83 14. 86 14. 90 14. 93 47 14. 96 14. 99 15. 02 15. 06 15. 09 15. 12 15. 15 15. 18 15. 21 15. 25 48 15. 28 15. 31 15. 34 15. 37 15. 40 15. 44 15. 47 15. 50 15. 53 15. 56 49 15. 60 15. 62 15. 66 15. 69 15. 72 15. 76 15. 79 15. 82 15. 85 15. 88 50 15. 92 15. 95 15. 98 16. 01 16. 04 16. 07 16. 11 16. 14 16. 17 16. 20 51 16. 24 16. 27 16. 30 16. 33 16. 36 16. 40 16. 43 16. 46 16. 49 16. 52 52 16. 55 16. 58 16. 62 16. 65 16. 68 16. 71 16. 74 16. 77 16. 81 16. 8● 53 16. 87 16. 90 16. 93 16. 97 16. 99 17. 03 17. 06 17. 09 17. 12 17. 1● The Description of the Table. The Table is Calculated from one tenth part of an Inch Circumference, to 54 Inches Circumference, which is large enough for the Gird of the Base Ring of any Gun: Or for the Circumference of any Bullet or Granado Shell; for which purposes this Table will be serviceable, as shall be showed hereafter. The Table consisting of Eleven Columns, the first Column of the Table (beginning at 0 Inches, and ending at 53 Inches) shows the number of whole Inches that any Ring of a Piece, or Girt of a Bullet is in Circumference. The nine Figures at the Heads of the Table, which are 0. 1. 2. 3, etc. (and are larger than the rest) signify tenth parts of Inches of the Circumference of any Ring or Bullet. And the Figures in the other Columns are the Diameters of Circles, the Gird of whose Circumference are found in the Side and Head thereof. The Use of the Table. The Uses of this Table are principally two, First, by having the Circumference of any Circle given, to find the Diameter; or, Secondly, having the Diameter, to find the Circumference. Example 1. If the Circumference of a Circle be 18 Inches, and three tenth parts of an Inch, how much is the Diameter of that Circle? Find 18 Inches in the first Column of the Table, and three tenths at the top of the Table; and right against 18, and under 3, you shall find 5. 82, that is 5 Inches, and 82 hundred parts of an Inch, for the length of the Diameter of that Circle. Example 2. If the Diameter of a Circle be 13 Inches and 75 hundred parts of an Inch, how much is the Circumference of that Circle? Look for 13. 75 among the Figures in some of the Columns of the Table, which number you will find to stand under the figure a in the head of the Table, and against 43 in the first Column of the Table, which shows the Circumference of that Circle to be 43 Inches, and two tenth parts of an Inch. CHAP. X. Concerning the Disparting of any Piece of Ordnance, and how to find the length of the Dispart. THE Dispart of a Piece, is the difference between the thickness of the Metal at the Muzzle and Breech of the Piece: And to find it there are several ways. I. Mechanically. Take your Priming Iron, and put it down right in the Touchhole, till it touch the Metal at the bottom of the Boar, and upon the Iron make a mark level with the top of the Base Ring of the Piece: Then apply the Priming-Iron to the bottom of the Metal at the Mouth of the Piece; and upon it make another mark, equal with the top of the Muzzle Ring of the Piece; so shall the distance between these two Marks, be the true length of the Dispart proper for that Gun. Another way not much differing from the former may be thus: Take a small Stick or Straw that is straight, and put it into the Touch hole to the lower part of the Cylinder (or Concave) of the Gun, and cut it off close to the Metal at the top of the Base Ring of the Piece; then apply it in the same manner to the Mouth of the Piece, and cut it off level with the top of the Muzzle Ring, so shall the little piece cut off be the Dispart; which being set upright upon the top of the Muzzle Ring of the Piece with Clay, Pitch or Wax, it shall be the true Dispart. There are other Mechanic ways to perform this Work, but the best of them are uncertain; wherefore I shall show how it may be performed other ways. II. By the foregoing Table. Let the Girt of the Base Ring of a Piece be 42 Inches, and the Gird of the Muzzle Ring 31 Inches; and let the length of the Dispart for such a Piece be required. Look in the first Column of the Table for 42 (the Gird of the Base Ring) and against it (in the next Column) is 13. 37. that is 13 Inches and 37 hundred parts of an Inch; for the Diameter of the Base Ring. Again, look in the first Column of the Table for 31. (the Gird of the Muzzle Ring, and against it (in the next Column) is 9 87. that is, 9 Inches and 87 hundred parts of an Inch, for the Diameter of the Muzzle Ring as before; the difference between these is, 3. 50. which is 3 Inches and a half; the half whereof is, 1. 75 (or 1 Inch and 3 quarters) for the length of the Dispart of such a Gun. Another Example: Let the Gird or Circumference of the Base Ring of a Gun be 37 Inches, and 4 tenth parts of an Inch: And let the Girt of the Muzzle Ring of the same Piece be 26 Inches and 6 tenths of an Inch: I would know the length of the Dispart for such a Gun. Look in the first Column of this Table for 37 Inches, and among the great figures at the head, for 4 (which is the 4 tenths of an Inch) And then against 37 in the first Colum, and under 4 at the top, you shall find 11. 90, which is 11 Inches, and 90 hundred parts of an Inch (or 9 tenths of an Inch) for the Diameter of the Base Ring of the Piece: Again, look in the Table for 26 Inches in the first Column, and for 6 at the head of the Table, and right against 26 in the first Column, and under 6 at the head, you shall find this number 8. 47, which is 8 Inches 47 hundred parts of an Inch: Subtract 8. 47 from 11. 90, the remainder will be 2. 57, the half whereof is 1. 28, that is 1 Inch, and 28 hundred parts of an Inch, for the true length of the Dispart of that Gun. A Third Example: Diameter. Gird of the Base Ring, 47 Inch. 3 tenths 15. 06 Girt of the Muzzle Ring 32 Inch. 5 tenths 10. 34 Their Difference 4. 72 The half 2 In. 36 hund. parts of an Inch, the Dispart 2. 36 And let this suffice for the use of this Table in this place. All these ways here prescribed for Disparting of a Piece, do suppose the Piece to be truly bored; but if it be Chamber bored, observe what followeth. How to know whether a Piece be Chamber bored, or not. First, find the Dispart of the Piece, by the Priming-Iron or a Stick, also find it by the Table; and if you find them two ways to agree, take that for the true Dispart. Take the Dispart by the third way, but if the Dispart taken by the several ways differ, than that difference is the just difference of the Chamber from the true Boar of the Piece. As for Example: Suppose the Dispart found by the Priming Iron to be two Inches, and by the Table 3 Inches; it shows that the Chamber differs from the true Boar, on each side one Inch; so that if the Boar of the Piece be six Inches high, the Chamber is but 4 Inches high. This the Gunner ought to examine and inquire into, that he may make his Cartridges to load his Piece withal accordingly. CHAP. XI. How to know whether a Piece of Ordnance be truly bored or not, when it is in its Carriage: and lying Horizontally. PRovide a Pikestaff, which let be about one foot longer than the Boar of the Piece from the Touch. hole; and at the end thereof, fasten a Rammer head, that will justly fill all the Boar under the Touchhole; and at the other end of the Staff, bore a hole big enough to put through a Rod of Iron about 16 or 18 Inches long, and at the end of the Rod hang a Bullet or Weight of about 7 or 8 pound; for this Weight thus disposed will cause the same part of the Rammer-head to lie always with the same part uppermost. Put this Instrument thus prepared into the Piece, letting the Iron Rod and Bullet hang perpendicularly; then putting your Priming-Iron in at the Touchhole, make a mark upon the Rammer-head: This done, draw your Instrument out of the Gun, and lay it upon a long Form or Table, letting the Rod and Bullet hang over the end of the Table as it did before out of the mouth of the Piece. Then observe, whether the mark you made upon the head of the Rammer when it was in the Piece, be just on the uppermost part of the same when it lieth upon the Table; and if it be, the Boar of the Piece lieth neither to the right or left hand: But if you find it to lie half or a quarter of an Inch either to the right or left hand, so much lieth the Boar either to the right or left, and the Piece in shooting must be ordered and charged accordingly. By what is here said, may be found whether the Piece incline towards the Right or Left hand, but to know whether it lie also upwards or downwards, and not in the middle: Then, to find which way; Take the Diameter of the Piece at the Touchhole, as is before taught: Then take a piece of Wyre, and bend it a little at the end that it may catch at the Metal when it is drawing out at the Touch hole. This Wire thus prepared, put it in at the Touchhole, till it touch the bottom of the Metal in the Chamber, and holding it there, make a mark upon it, just even with the Touch hole; then pull up the Wire till it catch at the Metal on the top of the Chamber, and make another mark upon it, the distance between these two marks, is the just Diameter of the Chamber: And the distance between the first mark, and the end of the Wire (half the Diameter of the Chamber of the Piece being substracted) will leave half the Diameter of the Piece, if the Piece be truly Bored: But if this number be more than half the Diameter of the Piece, before found, at the Touch hole; than the Boar lieth too far from the Touchhole, and the upper part of the Metal is the thickest: but if lesser, than the under part of the Piece hath the most Metal. Example: Suppose I find the Diameter of my Gun to be at the Touchhole 12 Inches; then with my Wire, I find the Diameter of the Boar to be 4 Inches; and to the bottom of the Metal it is 7 Inches and an half; now half the Diameter of the Boar being 2 Inches, that added to the second mark upon the Wire, or substracted from 7 Inches and a half, the first Mark, leaves 5 Inches and a half, which is less than half the Diameter of the Gun at the Touchhole first found, by half an Inch; and therefore the greatest part of the Metal is under the Boar of the Piece, and the Gun likeliest to break above. And here note: If you were to make a Dispart for such a Gun as this, you are to make it half an Inch shorter than it will be found to be by taking the Circumference, and finding the Diameters of the Rings at the Base and Muzzle: And the like is to be observed if the difference were greater, or the upper part of the Metal had been greater. CHAP. XII. Concerning Guns that are not truly bored; How to know what quantity of Powder must be allowed for their Loading. SUppose the Diameter of the Metal of a Piece at the Touchhole, be 16 Inches, and the Diameter at the Boar 5 Inches and a quarter, the Weight of the Piece 4850 pound: Now such a Piece will require 11 pound of Powder for its Loading: But I find the Boar to be an Inch out of its place, thence I conclude the thinest part of the Metal is 4 Inches and half a quarter, and the thickest side 6 Inches and half a quarter, by which it appears, that one side is two Inches thicker than the other. Now to find what quantity of Powder will be a sufficient Load for such a Piece, it must be computed from the thinest part of the Metal, which is here 4. 375 Inches, which doubled is 8. 75 Inches, to which add the Diameter at the Boar 5. 25 Inches, the sum is 14. 00 Inches, which call the lessor Diameter, and 16 the greater Diameter: And to find the quantity of Powder by Arithmetic, this is the Proportion: As the Cube of 16 (the greater Diameter) 4096, Is to the Cube of 14 (the lesser Diameter) 2744; So is 11 pound (the Powder to be allowed if the Piece had been truly Bored) To 7. 36 pound (the Powder to be allowed to the false Bored Piece.) For, multiply 16 by 16, it produceth 256, and that again by 16, and it produceth 4096, which is the Cube of 16 the Greater Diameter. Also, multiply 14 by 14, it produceth 196, and that again by 14, produceth 2744, which is the Cube of 14, the Lesser Diameter. Then Multiply 2744 (the Cube of the Lesser Diameter) by 11 (the Powder to be allowed, if the Piece had been truly bored) the product will be 30184: which number divided by 4096 (the Cube of the Greater Diameter) gives in the Quotient 7. 36 pounds of Powder, which will be a sufficient Charge for such a false bored Gun. CHAP. XIII. How to discover what Cracks, Flaws, or Honeycombs are in any Piece of Ordnance. AS soon as ever you have discharged any Piece of Ordnance, let one be ready to cover the Mouth of the Piece close, and stop the Touchhole at the same time; by which means you may know if any Cracks or Flaws do go through the Metal, for if any such be, a visible smoke will come through those Flaws or Cracks. Otherwise: In a clear Sun shine day, with a piece of polished Steel (or plain Looking-Glass) reflect the Beams of the Sun into the hollow Cylinder of the Piece, so shall you have a clear shining light within the concave of the Piece, by which you may see all Flaws, Cracks, or Honeycombs. And in case the Sun do not shine, get a Stick somewhat longer than the hollow of the Piece, and cut a notch at one end thereof, wherein to put a piece of a Candle; put this Stick with the Candle lighted into the Piece, by whose light observe (as well as you can) whether from one end to the other you can discover any Flaws, etc. in the Piece. Lastly, If upon the outside of the Metal of any Piece of Ordnance, you strike a smart blow with an Iron Hammer; If you then hear a hoarse sound, doubtless there are Honey-combs, or such like Flaws: But if at any stroke you hear a clear sound, you may conclude that Piece to be sound, and free from Cracks, etc. CHAP. XIV. Concerning the Weight of Iron-shot, and Granado-shels. Having the Diameter of any Cast Iron shot, you may find the Weight thereof. FOR, it hath been generally agreed upon, that a Cast Iron-Bullet of 4 Inches Diameter will weigh 9 Pound, and so make that a proportion for all other Diameters: If so, then As the Cube of 4 Inches, which is 64. Is to 9 pound weight: So is the Cube of any other Diameter, suppose 5 Inches (viz. 125.) To 17. 58 pound for the weight, Which is 17 pound and a half and somewhat more. Another way to perform the same somewhat easier. This way is done by Multiplication only, and so somewhat easier than the former, and it is a way which was discovered by Mr. Valentine Pyne, late Fire-Master of England; and for the effecting of it, this is the RULE: Cube the Diameter of the Bullet given, then Multiply that Cube number by 14, and cut off two Figures to the right hand, the Figures to the left hand are pounds weight, and the other two hundred parts of a Pound. Example I. Let it be required to find the Weight of a Cast Iron Bullet, whose Diameter is five Inches, the same as in the other Example. The Cube of 5 Inches is 125, which multiplied by 14, produceth 1750, from which cut off the two figures towards the right hand, and it will be 17. 50, that is 17 pound, and 50 hundred parts of a pound, which is just 17 pound and a half; and that is the weight required. And this way (as he found it by often experience) comes nearer to the truth than the former, of 9 Pound to 4 Inches Diameter. Example 2. Let the Diameter of a Shot be 6 Inches and seven Tenths of an Inch; and let the Weight thereof be required. Multiply 6. 7 by 6. 7, the Product will be 44. 89 for the Square, and that multiplied again by 6. 7 produceth 300. 863 for the Cube of the Diameter of the Shot. Which 300. 863 multiplied by 14, produceth 4212082, from which five figures to the right hand being cut off (that is three for the Decimal parts in the Multiplicand 300. 863, and two, according as the Rule directs) the Remainder will be 42. 12082, that is 42 Pound, and 12 hundred parts of a Pound for the Weight of the Shot whose Diameter is 6 Inches and 7 tenths of an Inch. According to this Rule is the following Table made, which showeth the weight of any Iron Shot, whose Diameter is given in Inches and Tenth parts of Inches; from one Inch to 20 Inches Diameter: in Pounds and 100 parts of a Pound weight. The Use of the following Table. Example 1. Let the Diameter of an Iron-shot be 13 Inches, what is its weight? Look for 13 in the first Column of the Table towards the left hand, and against it in the next Column stands 307. 58, which shows that such a Shot of Iron will weigh 307 Pound, and 58 hundred parts of a Pound, which is above half a Pound. Exam. 2. If a Cast-Bullet of Iron be in Diameter 11 Inches and 3 Tenths of an Inch, How much doth that Bullet weigh? The Tenths of Inches. Whole Inches in Diameter. 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0.14 0.19 0.27 0.31 0.38 0.47 0.57 0.69 0.82 0.96 2 1.12 1.30 1.49 1.70 1.93 1.18 2.46 2.76 3.07 3.41 3 3.78 4.17 4.59 5.27 5.50 6.00 6.53 7.09 7.68 8.39 4 8.96 9.65 10.37 11.11 11.93 12.76 13.63 14.54 15.48 16.47 5 17.50 18.58 19.69 20.84 22.05 23.30 24.59 25.93 27.32 28.75 6 30.27 31.78 32.37 35.01 36.70 38.45 40.25 4●. 11 44.02 45.99 7 48.02 50.11 52.26 54.46 56.73 59.07 61.46 63.92 66.45 69.03 8 71.68 74.40 77.19 80.04 82.97 85.98 89.05 92.18 95.01 98.69 9 102.06 105.50 109.01 112.61 116.39 120.03 123.90 127.78 131.77 135.84 10 140.00 144.24 148.56 152.98 157.48 162.06 166.74 171.51 176.36 181.30 11 186.34 191.47 196.69 202.51 207.43 212.92 218.52 224.22 230.02 235.92 12 241.92 248.02 254.22 260.52 266.93 273.43 280.04 286.78 293.58 201.2 13 307.58 314.73 322.00 320.37 336.86 344.46 351.80 259.99 367.93 375.99 14 384.16 392.45 400.86 409.39 418.04 426.81 436.70 444.72 453.85 463.11 15 472.50 482.01 491.56 501.42 511.32 521.34 531.50 541.78 552.20 562.36 16 573.43 584.26 595.21 606.29 617.54 628.91 6●0. 40 652.04 663.82 67●. 74 17 687.82 700.02 712.37 724.71 737.02 750.31 763.24 ●76. 27 789.56 8●2. 9● 18 816.48 830.16 843.50 857.99 872.13 886.43 900.38 915.40 930.26 945.18 19 960.25 975.50 990.91 1000.31 1002.22 1039.00 1054.12 1075.32 1080.71 1103.33 20 1120.00 1136.19 1153.90 1170.92 1188.51 1202.41 122●. 81 1241.81 1259.82 1278. 1● Look for 11 Inches in the first Column of the Table, and for 3 Tenths at the top of the Table, and right against 11, and under 3, you shall find 202. 51, which is 202 Pound and an half: Inch. Pound. And so a Bullet being in Diameter 3.0 The Weight thereof will be found to be 03.78 9.6 123.96 13.4 336.86 17.2 712.37 Some other Uses of this Table. THE Table is Calculated for 20 Inches Diameter of a Shot, or Bullet, but we have no Guns that carries a Bullet above 8 Inches, notwithstanding which, it was Calculated to 20 Inches, for finding the weight of Granado-Shells, which are also made of Cast-Iron; and the Diameter of those may from Out to Out be near 20 Inches, and therefore I shall instance in one of them. Exam. 3. Let there be a Granado-Shell whose Diameter from Out to Out, let be 19 Inches 6 Tenths; and the Diameter within 15 Inches and 4 Tenths: What is the Weight of that Shell? Look for 19 Inches in the first Column, and for 6 in the head of the Table, so against 19, and under 6 you shall find 1054. 1, Pound, which is the weight if it were a solid Shot; which number set down. Then look in the first Column of the Table for 15 Inches in the first Column, and 4 in the head of the Table, and against 15 and under 4, you shall find 511. 32 Pound, which is the weight of a Shot of 15 Inches and 4 Tenths Diameter. Now if you subtract 511. 32 (the weight found by the Inner Diameter) from 1054. 40 (the Weight found by the Outer Diameter) the Remainder will be 543. 08 which is 543 Pound, for the Weight of the Shell. The Diameter of the Shell without, may be found by its Circumference, as is before taught; or by a pair of Calloper Compasses: And for the Diameter within that may be found by putting in a Stick at the Fuse-hole, and measuring it by a Rule of Inches and Tenths: Or, (if the Shell be of equal thickness) by the thickness of the Metal at the Fuse-hole, which suppose to be 2 Inches and 1 Tenth; the double whereof is 4 Inches and 2 Tenths, and that taken from 19 6, the Outer Diameter, leaves 15. 4 for the Inner Diameter. CHAP. XV. Concerning the following Table of Cube-Roots. THE following Table consisteth of two Columns, in the first of which towards the left hand is contained the Roots of all Numbers from 1 to 100, and of their Halves and Quarters. So in the beginning of the Table, in the first Column you have 1.0, that is, one Inch, one Fathom, one Pound, etc. and under 1. 0, you have 1, 2, 3, standing one under another, which is 1, 2, 3 Quarters of Inches, Fathoms, etc. and so on, from one Inch to 100 In the second Column is the Cubes of all those Numbers which stand in the first Column: As against 2 in the first Column you shall find 8 in the second, which is the Cube of 2; for 2 multiplied by 2, produceth 4, and 4 multiplied again by 2 produceth 8, which is the Cube of 2. Also against 2 and 1 quarter, you shall find 11. 39 which is the Cube of 2 and a quarter: And thus may you find that: Inch. Quar. Cube. The Cube of 4 0 is 64 5 1 144. 90 6 2 274. 62 7 3 465. 48 In like manner, if the Cube of any Number be given, the Root thereof may be found. So if 32768 were a Cube-number given, and the Root thereof were required: Look in the second Column of the Table (which hath the word Cube at the head thereof) for this Number 32768, against which you shall find (under the word Root) 32, which is the Root thereof, for 32 multiplied by 32 produceth 1024, and that again multiplied by 32 produceth 32768, which is the Cube of 32. And thus may you find that, Inch. Quar. 103823 Is the Cube of 47 30275. 25 14 2 926. 49 9 3 34. 33 3 1 The Use of the following Table of Cube-Roots, in the solution of several Questions, useful in the Art of Gunnery. Quest. I. If a Bullet of Iron of six Inches Diameter weigh thirty Pound, what shall a Bullet of the same Metal weigh, whose Diameter is seven Inches. Look in the Table for 6 in the first Column, against which you shall find 216, the Cube of 6: Also against 7 is 343 the Cube of 7. Then say by the Rule of Three: As 16 (the Cube of 6 Inches.) Is to 30 Pound, (the Weight of that Bullet): So is 343 (the Cube of 7 Inches): To 47. 64 (that is 47 Pound, and 64 hundred parts of a Pound) for the Weight of the Bullet of Iron, which is 7 Inches Diameter. Multiply 343 by 30, the Product will be 10290, which divide by 216, the Quotient will be 47. 64 the Weight of the Shot required. Quest. II. If the Diameter of a Shot be 3 Inches and 3 Quarters, and it do weigh 7 Pound 5 Ounces, (or in Decimals 7. 31) what will the Diameter of a Shot (of the same Metal) be whose Weight is 16 Pound? The Cube of 3 Inches 3 Quarters is 52. 73, then by Proportion say, The Table of Cubes, and Cube-Roots to whole Inches, Halves and Quarters; or of any other Measure. Root. Cube 1 0 1 1 1. 95 2 3. 37 3 5. 36 2 0 8 1 11. 39 2 15. 62 3 20. 80 3 0 27. 1 34. 35 2 42. 87 3 52. 73 4 0 64. 1 76. 76 2 91. 12 3 107. 17 5 0 125. 1 144. 70 2 167. 37 3 190. 11 6. 0 216. 1 244. 14 2 274. 62 3 307. 55 7 0 343. 1 381. 07 2 411. 87 3 465. 48 8 0 512. 1 561. 52 2 614. 12 3 669. 92 9 0 729. 1 791. 45 2 857. 37 3 926. 86 10 0 1000 1 1076. 89 2 1157. 62 3 1242. 30 11 0 1331. 1 1423. 83 2 1520. 87 3 1622. 23 12 0 1728. 1 1838. 26 2 1953. 12 3 2072. 67 13 0 2197. 1 2326. 20 2 2460. 37 3 2599. 60 14 0 2744. 1 2893. 64 2 3027. 52 3 3290. 46 15 0 3375. 1. 3546. 58 2 3723. 87 3 3906. 98 16 0 4096. 1 4291. 02 2 4492. 12 3 4699. 42 17 0 4913. 1 5132. 95 2 5359. 37 3 5592. 36 18 0 5832. 1 6078. 39 2 6331. 62 3 6591. 80 19 0 6859. 1 7133. 43 2 7414. 87 3 7703. 73 20 0 8000. 1 8303. 76 2 8615. 12 3 8934. 17 21 0 9261. 1 9595. 70 2 9938. 37 3 10289. 11 22 0 10648. 1 11015. 14 2 11390. 62 3 11774. 52 23 0 12167. 1 12568. 08 2 12977. 87 3 13396. 48 24 0 13824. 1 14260. 51 2 14705. 12 3 15160. 92 25 0 15625. 1 16098. 45 2 16581. 37 3 17073. 86 26 0 17576. 1 18087. 89 2 18609. 62 3 19141. 30 27 0 19683. 1 20234. 83 2 20796. 87 3 21369. 23 28 0 21972. 1 21545. 26 2 23149. 12 3 23763. 67 29 0 24389. 1 25025. 20 2 25672. 37 3 26330. 61 30 0 27000. 1 27680. 64 2 28372. 62 3 29076. 05 31 0 29791. 1 30517. 58 2 31255. 87 3 32005. 98 32 0 32768. 1 33542. 01 2 34328. 12 3 35126. 42 33 0 35937. 1 36759. 95 2 37595. 37 3 38443. 36 34 0 39304. 1 40177. 39 2 41063. 63 3 41962. 80 35 0 42825. 1 43800. 33 2 44738. 87 3 45690. 73 36 0 48656. 1 47634. 76 2 48627. 12 3 49633. 17 37 0 50653. 1 51686. 70 2 52734. 37 3 53796. 11 38 0 54872. 1 55962. 14 2 57066. 62 3 58185. 55 39 0 55419. 1 60467. 08 2 61629. 88 3 62807. 48 40 0 64000. 1 65207. 51 2 66430. 12 3 67667. 93 41 0 68921. 1 70189. 45 2 71473. 37 3 72772. 86 42 0 74088. 1 75418. 90 2 76765. 62 3 78128. 30 43 0 79507. 1 80901. 83 2 82881. 86 3 83740. 23 44 0 85185. 1 86644. 26 2 88121. 12 3 89614. 67 44 0 91125. 1 92652. 20 2 94196. 37 3 95757. 61 45 0 9733●. 1 98931. 64 2 100544. 46 3 102175. 05 46 0 103823. 1 105488. 58 2 107171. 87 3 108872. 98 47 0 11059●. 1 112329. 01 2 114084. 12 3 115857. 42 49 0 117649. 119458. 95 121287. 37 123134. 35 50 0 125000. 126884. 39 128787. 62 130709. 80 51 0 132691. 134611. 33 136590. 87 138589. 73 52 0 140608. 142645. 65 144703. 12 146780. 17 53 0 148877. 150993. 70 153130. 37 155287. 11 54 0 157464. 159661. 14 161878. 62 164116. 54 55 0 167375. 168654. 08 170953. 88 173274. 48 56 0 175616. 177978. 51 180362. 12 182766. 92 57 0 185193. 187640. 45 190109. 37 192599. 85 58 0 195112. 197645. 89 200201. 62 202779. 29 59 0 205379. 208008. 28 210644. 87 213311. 23 60 0 216000. 218711. 26 22144●. 13 224201. 67 61 0 216981. 229783. 20 232608. 37 235456. 61 62 0 238328. 241222. 64 244140. 62 247082. 04 63 0 250047. 253035. 57 256047. 87 259083. 98 64 0 262244. 265228. 01 268336. 12 271468. 42 65 0 274625. 277805. 95 281011. 37 284241. 35 66 0 287496. 290775. 39 294079. 63 297408. 79 67 0 300753. 304142. 33 307546. 87 310976. 73 68 0 314432. 317912. 76 321419. 12 324951. 17 69 0 329199. 332092. 70 335702. 37 339338. 11 70 0 343000. 346688. 14 350402. 62 354143. 54 71 0 357911. 361705. 08 365525. 87 369373. 48 72 0 373348. 377149. 51 381078. 12 385033. 92 73 0 389017. 393027. 45 397065. 37 401130. 86 74 0 405224. 409344. 89 413493. 62 417670. 30 75 0 411875. 426107. 83 430368. 87 ●●4658. 23 76 0 438976. 443322. 26 447697. 12 452100. 67 77 0 456533. 460994. 20 465484. 37 470003. 61 78 0 474522. 479129. 64 483736. 62 488373. 04 79 0 493039. 497734. 58 502459. 87 507214. 98 80 0 512000. 516815. 01 521660. 12 526535. 95 81 0 531441. 536376. 95 541343. 37 546340. 36 82 0 550408. 556426. 39 561515. 62 568357. 97 83 0 571787. 576969. 33 582182. 87 587427. 73 84 0 592604. 598011. 76 603351. 12 608722. 17 85 0 614125. 619559. 70 625026. 17 630525. 11 86 0 636056. 641619. 14 647214. 62 652842. 54 87 0 658503. 664196. 07 669921. 87 675680. 48 88 0 681472. 687296. 51 693154. 12 699044. 92 89 0 705669. 710926. 45 716917. 37 722941. 86 90 0 729000. 735091. 89 741217. 62 747377. 29 91 0 753571. 759798. 82 766060. 87 772357. 23 92 0 778688. 785053. 26 791453. 12 797887. 67 93 0 804357. 810861. 20 817400. 37 823974. 61 94 0 830584. 837228. 64 843908. 62 850624. 04 95 0 857375. 864161. 58 870983. 87 877841. 98 96 0 884736. 891666. 01 898632. 12 9●5634. 42 97 0 915672. 919747. 95 926859. 37 934007. 36 98 0 941192. 948413. 39 955671. 62 962966. 79 99 0 970299. 977668. 33 985074. 87 992518. 73 100 1000000. As 7. 31 Pound (the weight of the Shot of 3 Inch. 3 Quar.) Is to 52. 73 (the Cube of 3 Inch. 3 Quarters: So is 16 Pound (the Weight of the Shot whose Diameter is sought.) To 115, Which Number being found in the second Column of the Table (or the nearest to it, which is 107. 17) the Root answering to this Number is 4 Inches 3 Quarters, for the Diameter of the Shot, whose Weight is 16 Pound. Quest. III. If a Saker whose greatest thickness is 11 Inches and a half, do weigh 1900 Pound: What will the Weight of another Saker be, whose greatest thickness is eight Inches and three Quarters. By the Table I find the Cube of 8 Inches 3 Quarters to be 669. 92, and the Cube of 11 Inches and a half to be 1520. 85: Then say by Proportion: As 1520. 85 (the Cube of the Diameter of the Piece whose Weight is known) Is to 1900, (the Weight of the Piece:) So is 669. 92 (the Cube of the Diameter of the Piece whose Weight you would know), To 837 Pound almost. Multiply 669. 92 (the Cube of 8 Inch. 3 Q.) by 1900 (the Weight) the Product will be 1272848. 00) which divided by 1520. 85, the Cube of 11 Inch. 3 Qu.) the Quotient will be 837 Pound almost, for the Weight of the Piece (or Saker) whose greatest thickness is 8 Inch. 3 Quar. This is, if the two Pieces were of the same Metal, (as both Brass:) But if the Piece whose Weight you seek had been Iron: then having performed all the former work, as if they had been both Brass; you must then work another Proportion: For, the Proportion of the Weight between Brass and Iron being as 16 to 18 (as I have showed in the following Chapter XVI. of this Book) Brass being the heavier: Then say, As 18 (the Weight of Brass) Is to 16 (the Weight of Iron), So is 837 (the Weight of the Piece if it had been Brass), To 744 (the Weight thereof, it being of Irou. Quest. IU. If a Saker of 3 Inch. 3 Quar. Diameter at the Boar, require 4 Pound of Powder for her Charge, What will a Demi-Cannon of 6 Inches and a half Diameter at the Boar require for her Charge? The Cube of 3 Inch. 3 Qu. is 52. 73: And the Cube of 6 Inch. and a half is 274. 62; Then say, As 52. 73 (the Cube of 3 Inch. 3 Quart.) Is to 274. 62 (the Cube of 6 Inch. and a half), So is 4 Pound (the Load for 3 Inches 3 Quarters), To 20. 81 Pound (the Load for 6 Inches and a half.) You are here to Note, That the Demi-Cannon should be fortified so well as the Saker: The Cube of the Diameter of the Demi-Cannon is. 274, of the Saker 52; the Weight of the Saker 1600: What should the Weight of the Demi-Cannon be? Say, As 52 (the Cube of the Boar of the Saker), Is to 274 (the Cube of the Boar of the Demi-Cannon), So 1600 (the Weight of the Saker), To 8431 (the Weight that such a Demi Cannon should be of, to bear such a Charge proportionably to the Saker.) But suppose the Demi Cannon to be no more than 6000 Weight; then Multiply 6000 by 20. 81 (the Charge already Calculated), the Product will be 12486000, which if you divide by 8431 (the Weight the Demi-Cannon should be of) the Quotient will be 14. 8, that is 14 Pound and 8 Tenths of a Pound, which will be a sufficient Charge for such a Piece. Quest. V. A Granado-shell being 14 Inches Diameter, and two Inches and a half substance in Metal, what is the weight of the Metal, and the content of the Concavity of the Shell in Cubical Inches. 1. The Cube of 14 the Diameter of the Shell, is 2747; which multiplied by 11, the Product is 30184, and that divided by 21, the Quotient is 1473⅓, which is the solid Inches in the whole, Metal and Concave both, as if it were a a solid Buller of 14 Inches Diameter. 2. For the Concavity, the thickness of the Metal being 2½ Inches, the double thereof is 5 Inches, which substracted from 14 Inches, there remains 9 Inches; for the Diameter of the Concave of the Shell; then the Cube of 9 is 729; which multiplied by 11 produceth 8019; and that divided by 21, the Quotient will be 381⅞ for the solid Inches contained in the Concavity of the Shell: the 381 being Substracted from 1437, (omitting the Fractions in both Numbers) the remainder is 1056 Inches, the Cubical Inches of the Metal. 3. And because one Cubical Inch of Cast-Iron is by experience found to weigh 4 Ounces, multiply 1056 by 16, (the number of Ounces in one Pound), the Product will be 16896 Ounces, which divided by 4, the Quotient will be 4224, and that Number divided by 16, (the Number of Ounces in one Pound), the Quotient will be 264 Pounds, for the Weight of the Granado Shell. Quest. VI By the Mould and Burden one Ship being known, how to build another Ship of the same Mould, of any assigned Burden, greater or lesser. Suppose a Ship of 100 Tun, is found to be 44 foot long in the Keel, 20 foot broad upon the Midship beam, 9 foot deep in the Hold, and did Rack it with the Stem forwards 13 foot, and offward 7. If (according to these Dimensions) you would build a Ship whose Burden should be 200 Tun, the several Dimensions of the Members may be found as followeth. 1. For the Keel, it being 44 foot, the Cube thereof is 85184, double this Number (because the Ship you are to build is double the Burden of the other, viz. 200 Tun), and it makes 170368, the Cube-Root whereof is 55, 441 foot; which is 55 foot, 4 Inches▪ of an Inch, for the length of the Keel. 2. For the breadth upon the Midship-beam 20 foot; the Cube of 20 is 8000, the double whereof is 16000, whose Cube-Root is 25. 20 foot, that is 25 foot, 2 Inches and ½ of an Inch, for the breadth upon the Midship-beam. 3. For the depth in Hold 9 foot, the Cube of 9 is 729, the double whereof is 1458, whose Cube-Root is 11. 34 foot; that is 11 foot, 4 Inches for the depth in Hold. 4. For the Rack forward 13 foot; the Cube of 13 is 2197, the double whereof is 4394, whose Cube is 16. 38 foot; that is 16 foot, 4 Inches and a half for the Rack forward. 5. For the Rack offwards 7 foot; the Cube of 7 is 343 the double whereof is 686, whose Cube-Root is 8. 82 foot; which is 8 foot, 9 Inches, and ¼ of an Inch, for the Rack offwards. This is the natural way of working of these and the like Proportions, but when you have many Lengths to find, you may ease yourself of extracting so many Cube Roots, for having found out one of them by the Cube-Root, you may find out all the rest-by the Golden Rule of Proportion: Thus, having found the Length by the Keel to be 55. 44, and you would find the length of the Midship-beam proportionable to this, which in the Ship of 100 Tun was 20 foot: Say, As 44 the length by the Keel of the Ship of 100 Tuns, Is to 55. 44 the length by the Keel of the Ship of 200 Tuns, So is 9 foot, the depth in the Hold of the Ship of 100 Tuns, To 11. 34, the depth in the Hold of the Ship of 200 Tuns. And so of all the Members, as in this Synopsis, 1. For the Midship beam: As 44 is to 55. 44, so is 20 to 25. 20: 2. For the Depth in Hold: As 44 is to 55. 44, so is 9 to 11. 34: 3. For the Rack forward: As 44 is to 55. 44, so is 13 to 16. 38: 4. For the Rack offward: As 44 is to 55. 44, so is 7 to 8. 82: Or thus, having the proportion of one Cube to another Cube, you may work by that in this manner. The Cube of 1 Being 1. 000 thereof is 2 The Double 1. 260 3 The Triple 1. 442 4 The Quadruple 1. 557 5 The Quintuple 1. 710 6 The Sextuple 1. 817 7 The Septuple 1: 913 8 The Octuple 2. 000 And thus, by the foresaid Supposition a Ship of 100 Tuns being 44 Foot by the Keel, the Length of the Keel for a Ship of 200, 300, 400 Tun, may be found by these Proportions: For a Ship of 200 Tuns. Say, as 1. 000 is to 44, so is 1. 260 to 55. 440 Feet. the length by the Keel: 300 Tuns. 1. 442 63. 448 Feet. 400 Tuns. 1. 557 69. 828 Feet. 500 Tuns. 1. 710 75. 240 Feet. 600 Tuns. 1. 817 79. 94 Feet. 700 Tuns. 1. 913 84. 172 Feet. 800 Tuns. 2. 000 88 000 Feet. And from these few Proportions may be deduced many more, but these shall suffice to show the use of the Cube-Root in this particular. CHAP. XVI. Concerning the Proportion of the Weights of Iron, Led, Stone, etc. And how by knowing the Weight of one Shot of Lead, to find the Weight of another of the like Diameter of Iron or Stone. THE Proportion between Lead and Iron is as 2 is to 3; So that a Shot of 3 pounds' Weight of Lead, will be of equal Diameter to one of Iron of two Pound Weight. The Proportion between Lead and Brass is as 24 to 19 Stone 4 1 Iron Brass 16 18 Iron Stone 3 8 By these Proportions, may be easily Calculated (in case Iron-Shot be wanting, and Led or Stone may be had), what Diameter and Weight, Shot either of Lead, Brass or Stone ought to be of, to fit any Piece of Ordnance: And from these Proportions the following Table is Calculated, for all Shots of Lead, Iron, and Stone, from two Inches Diameter to 8 Inches Diameter, by Inches, Halves and Quarters. A Table showing the Weight of any Shot of Iron, Led, or Stone, from 2 to 8 Inches Diameter. Quar. Inches Led, Po. Ou. Iron, Po. Ou. Stone, Po. Ou. 2 0 1 10½ 1 1 6 7 1 2 6 1 9 0 9 2 3 3 2 2 0 12 3 4 5 2 14 1 1 3 0 5 10 3 12 1 7 1 7 2 4 12 1 13 2 8 15 6 0 2 4 3 11 0 7 5 2 12 4 0 13 7 8 15 3 6 1 16 0 10 10½ 4 0 2 18 15 12 10¼ 4 12 3 22 5 14 14 5 9 5 0 26 2 17 5 6 8 1 30 2 20 1 7 8 2 34 11 23 2 8 11 3 39 3 26 6 9 14 6 0 45 0 30 0 11 4 1 51 0 34 0 12 12 2 57 0 38 0 14 4 3 62 0 42 0 15 12 7 0 72 0 48 0 18 0 1 79 8 53 0 20 0 2 87 0 58 0 22 12 3 96 0 43 0 24 0 8 0 106 0 71 0 26 10 By this Table you may see, That if a Gun carry a Shot of 5 Inches and a half Diameter, that Shot, if of Lead, will weigh 34 Pound 11 Ounces.— If of Iron 23 Pound 2 Ounces: If of Stone but 8 Po. 11 Ounces, and so of any other, as in the Table. Note, The Stone here meant is Marble, Pibble, and such like, other Stone being more soft and porous; and consequently lighter. Also Note, That in loading your Gun for a Stone-shot you are not to give her the same Charge of Powder as for one of Lead or Iron, but abate according as the Proportions of the Metals are. If you compare this Table with the former Table of Cube Roots, you shall find the Cube of each Number bear the like proportion one to another, as the Weight of each Bullet is one to another of the same Metal. Example. The Cube of 3 and 3 Quarters is 52. 73: The Weight of an Iron-Shot, which is 3 Inch. 3 Quart. is 7 Pound 5 Ounces, (or Decimally) 7. 31: The Cube of 4 Inch. 3 Qu. is 107. 17: The Weight of an Iron Shot of that Diameter is 14 Pound 14 Ounces (or Decimally 14. 87) which is 4 Ounces more than double 7. 31, for 7. 31 doubled is 14. 62. So likewise 52. 73 doubled is 105. 46, which does not exceed 107. 17 (the Cube of 3 Inch. 3 Quart.) being so doubled. CHAP. XVII. Concerning Gunpowder, and to find what quantity will fill any Granado Shell or Cartridge. IT hath been often Experimented in the Tower of London, that one Pound of Powder will fill 31 Cubical Inches, and 600 parts, which is, a little above half one tenth part of an Inch: This being allowed, it will be no hard matter to know what quantity of Powder will fill any Granado shell, or Cartridge. For the Proportion will be, As 33. 06 Cubical Inches, Is to One Pound of Powder; So is any other Number of Cubical Inches, To the Number of Pounds of Powder that will fill those Inches. Whether it be Granado shell or Gartridge. But this work being something troublesome, I shall here exhibit a Table, which by inspection only, will tell you what quantity of Powder will fill any Granado-shell, whose true Diameter is known, provided the Shell be perfectly Round. A Table showing what Quantity of Powder (in Pounds and hundred parts of a Pound) will fill any Granado Shell whose Diameter is known: Tenths of Inches. 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Whole Inches in Diameter: 1 00. 01 00. 02 00. 03 00. 04 00. 05 00. 06 00. 07 00. 08 00. 10 00. 12 2 00. 14 00. 16 00. 18 00. 20 00. 28 00. 26 00. 28 00. 32 00. 37 00. 41 3 00. 45 00. 50 00. 55 00. 61 00. 66 00. 72 00. 79 00. 86 00. 92 01. 00 4 01. 08 01. 16 01. 25 01. 34 01. 44 01. 54 01. 64 01. 75 01. 86 01. 98 5 02. 11 02. 22 02. 37 02. 51 02. 65 02. 80 02. 96 03. 12 03. 29 03. 46 6 03. 64 03. 83 04. 02 04. 17 04. 42 04. 63 04. 84 05. 07 05. 30 05. 54 7 05. 78 06. 03 06. 29 06. 56 06. 83 07. 11 07. 40 07. 70 08. 00 08. 31 8 08. 65 08. 96 09. 30 09. 64 09. 97 10. 25 10. 73 11. 10 11. 3● 11. 89 9 12. 29 12. 70 13. 13 13. 56 14. 00 14. 45 24. 92 15. 39 15. 87 16. 36 10 16. 86 17. 35 17. 89 18. 42 18. 97 19 52 10. 08 20. 66 21. 24 21. 83 11 22. 44 23. 06 23. 69 24. 32 24. 98 25. 64 26. 32 27. 00 27. 70 28. 41 12 29. 14 29. 87 30. 57 31. 37 32. 15 32. 93 33. 72 34. 53 35. 35 36. 19 13 37. 04 37. 91 38. 77 39 67 47. 56 41. 48 42. 41 43. 36 44. ●● 45. 28 14 46. 26 47. 26 48. 27 49. 30 50. 34 51. 40 52. 47 53. 56 54. 66 55. 77 15 59 90 58. 04 59 21 60. 39 61. 58 62. 78 64. 0● 65. 24 66. 50 67. 73 16 69. 06 70. 36 71. 68 73. 02 74. 37 75. 74 77. 12 78. 53 79. 94 81. 38 The Use of this Table. Exam. 1. If the Diameter of a Granado-Shell, be 7 Inches, how many Pounds of Powder will fill the same? Look for 7 in the first Column of the Table towards the left hand, and right against it you shall find 5. 78, which is 5 Pound, and 78 hundred parts of a Pound, which is somewhat above 3 Quarters of a Pound: And so much will fill such a Shell. Exam. 2. Suppose the Diameter of a Granado-Shell to be 15 Inches and 4 Tenths of an Inch: How much Powder will fill that Shell? This is such a Shell as was mentioned in the Third Example of Chap. XIV. Look for 15 Inches in the first Column of the Table towards the left hand, and for 4 Tenths of an Inch in the head of the Table; and against 15, and under 4, you shall find 61. 58, which is 61 Pounds, and 58 hundred parts of a Pound, which is somewhat above half a Pound. CHAP. XVIII. Concerning the Allowance of Powder for the Charge of any well Fortified Gun either Brass or Iron, according to the Weight thereof, from one hundred to ninety hundred Weight of Metal. A well Fortified Gun, hath her Metal at the Vent or Touchhole as thick as her Diameter at the Boar: Now Gunners do allow three Ounces of Powder for every hundred Weight of Metal in Iron Guns: and Four Ounees for every hundred Weight of Metal in Brass Guns: According to this Allowance. How much Powder must be allowed for the Charge of an Iron Gun, whose Weight is 22 hundred. The Allowance for Iron Guns being 3 Ounces, Multiply 22 (the hundred Weights) by 3 (the allowance for Iron Guns) the Product will be 66, which divide by 16 (the Ounces in one Pound) the Quotient will be 4 and 2 remaining, which is 4 Pound and 2 Ounces; So that 4 Pound and 2 Ounces of Powder, will load such an Iron Gun. But for a Brass Gun of the same Weight you must Multiply 22 by 4, and the Product will be 88, which divided by 16, the Quotient will be 5 Pound and 8 Ounces remaining, and so much must be allowed for a Brass Gun of 22 hundred Weight. And according to this Rule the following Table was made both for Brass and Iron Guns, from one hundred weight to 90 hundred Weight. A Table showing what Quantity of Powder is to be allowed for the Charge of any Brass or Iron Piece of Ordnance. C. W Brass. Po. Ou Iron. Po. Ou 1 00 04 00 03 2 00 08 00 6 3 00 12 00 9 4 01 00 00 12 5 01 04 00 15 6 01 08 01 2 7 01 12 01 5 8 02 00 01 8 9 02 04 01 11 10 02 08 01 14 11 02 12 02 1 12 03 00 02 4 13 03 04 02 7 14 03 08 02 10 15 03 12 02 12 16 04 00 03 0 17 04 04 03 3 18 04 08 03 6 19 04 12 03 9 20 0● 00 03 12 21 05 04 03 15 22 05 08 04 2 23 05 12 04 5 24 06 00 04 8 25 06 04 04 11 26 06 08 04 14 27 06 12 05 1 28 07 00 05 4 29 07 04 05 7 30 07 08 05 10 31 07 12 05 13 32 08 00 06 ●● 33 08 04 06 3 34 08 08 06 6 35 08 12 06 9 36 09 00 06 12 37 09 04 06 15 38 09 08 07 2 39 09 12 07 5 40 10 00 07 8 41 10 4 07 11 42 10 8 07 14 43 10 12 08 1 44 11 9 08 4 45 11 04 08 7 46 11 8 08 10 47 11 12 08 13 48 12 0 09 ●● 49 12 4 09 3 50 12 8 09 6 51 12 12 09 9 52 13 0 09 12 53 13 4 09 15 54 13 8 10 2 55 13 12 10 5 56 14 0 10 8 57 14 4 10 11 58 14 8 10 14 59 14 12 11 1 60 15 0 11 4 61 15 4 11 7 62 15 8 11 10 63 15 12 11 13 64 16 0 12 0 65 16 4 12 3 66 16 8 12 6 67 16 12 12 9 68 17 0 12 12 69 17 4 12 15 70 17 8 13 2 71 17 12 13 5 72 18 0 13 8 73 18 4 13 11 74 18 8 13 14 75 18 12 14 1 76 19 0 14 4 77 19 4 14 7 78 19 8 14 10 79 19 12 14 13 80 20 0 15 0 81 20 4 15 3 82 20 8 15 6 83 20 12 15 9 84 21 0 15 12 85 21 4 15 15 86 21 8 16 2 87 21 12 16 5 88 22 0 16 8 89 22 4 16 11 90 22 8 16 14 The Use of the TABLE. If an Iron or Brass Gun do weigh 57 hundred Weight, what Quantity of Powder must be allowed for her Charge. Look for 57 in the Column of the Table that hath C W at the top of it, signifying hundred Weight; and against 57 (towards the right hand) you shall find 14 Pound 4 Ounces for to Load a Brass Gun; and 10 Pound 11 Ounces to Load an Iron Gun of 57 hundred Weight. CHAP. XIX. Concerning Cartredges, how to make them, and fit them, fitting for the Boar, or Chamber of any Piece of Ordnance. I. How Cartredges are made: CArtredges are made of Stiff Paper, or Canvas, the breadth of which must be three Diameters of the Boar of the Chamber of the Gun for which it is made, and about four Diameters for the length: These pieces (if Canvas) must be sewed about a Former, which is a round piece of Wood, which must be a very little less than the Diameter of the Boar (or Chamber) of the Gun; unto which a Bottom of Canvas must also be sewed: But if you make your Cartredge of Paper, then must you roll the Paper about the Former, and payest the Edges together, and also fit a Bottom thereto. II. How to fill Cartredges. The Diameter of the Cartredge, and the Pounds of Powder that will Load the Piece, being known to find the length of the Cartredge when filled. Let the Diameter given be 6. 3 (that is 6 Inches and 3 tenth parts of an Inch) and let the quantity of Powder be 14. 5 (that is 14 Pound and a half:) And let it be required, to find how high the Cartredge must be filled, that it may hold just so much Powder.— To effect this it will be requisite to find the Area of the Circle of the Cartredge in Inches and Decimal parts of Inches: to find which this is the Proportion: As 28, Is to 22; So is the Square of the Diameter 39 69 Inches, To the Area, 31. 18 Inches. Multiply 6. 3. the Diameter in itself, and the Product will be 39 69 Inches, which is the Square of the Diameter; this (always) Multiply by 22, and it produceth 873. 18, which divide (always) by 28; and the Quotient will be 31. 18 Inches, and so many Square Inches are contained in the Area of the Circle of the Cartredge. Exam. The Area thus found, the Weight of Powder for Loading 14. 5 Pound, and the number of Cubical Inches in one Pound of Powder, viz. 31. 06 known: To find how high the Cartredge must be filled. This is the Proportion: As the Inches in the Area of the Circle 31. 18, Is to the Powder allowed for Loading; 14. 5 Pound, So is the Cubical Inches in one Pound of Powder, 31. 06, To the depth of the Cartredge to be filled 14. 4 Inches: Wherefore, Multiply 31. 06 (the Inches in one Pound of Powder) by 14. 5 Pound (the allowance for Loading), the Product will be 450. 370; which divided by 31. 18 (the Inches in the Circle of the Cartredge) the Quotient will be 14. 44 Inches, which is 14 Inches, and 44 hundred parts of an Inch, and so high must the Cartredge be filled. This is the Arithmetical way to perform this Work, but it may be much abreviated by help of this little Table following, which will require but one single Multiplication. Inches in the Diana. of the Cartr. or Sh. Tenths of Inches in the Diameter of the Cartredge or Shot. 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 In. 1000 parts. In. 1000 parts. In. 1000 parts. In. 1000 parts. In. 1000 parts. In. 1000 parts. In. 1000 parts. In. 1000 parts. In. 1000 parts. In. 1000 parts. 2 9 889 8. 970 8. 173 7. 471 6. 868 6. 330 5. 852 5. 427 5. 046 4. 704 3 4. 395 4. 117 3. 863 3. 641 3. 432 3. 229 3. 053 2. 890 2. 740 2. 601 4 2. 473 2. 353 2. 243 2. 141 2. 044 1. 954 1. 879 1. 791 1. 717 1. 648 5 1. 582 1. 522 1. 463 1. 408 1. 357 1. 308 1. 258 1: 218 1: 175 1: 127 6 1. 099 1. 063 1. 6●9 0. 996 0. 966 0. 930 0. 908 0. 881 0. 855 0. 831 7 0. 806 0. 785 0. 763 0. 742 0. 722 0. 703 0: 685 0. 667 0. 650 0. 634 The Quantity of Depth of the Cartredge, that one Pound of Powder will fill. The Use of this Table. I. The Diameter of a Cartredge being given to find how much of that Cartredge one Pound of Powder will fill. Exam. 1. If the Diameter of a Cartredge (or the hollow Chamber or Cylinder of a Gun) be 5 Inches, how much thereof will one Pound of Powder fill? Look for 5 Inches in the first Column towards the Left hand, against which stands 1. 582, which is one Inch, and 582 thousand parts of an Inch, and so much will one Pound of Powder fill of that Cartredge or Cylinder. Exam. 2. If the Diameter of a Cartredge, or Cylinder of a Gun be 4 Inches and 3 Tenths, how much thereof will one Pound of Powder fill? Look for 4 Inches in the first Column, and for 3 tenths in the head of the Table, and against 4 and under 3, you shall find 2. 141, that is, 2 Inches, and 141 thousand parts of an Inch, and so much will one Pound of Powder fill. II. The Diameter of the Cartredge, 6. 3 Inches, and the quantity of Powder that will Load the Gun, 14. 5 Pound, being known, to find how much of the Cartredge must be filled to hold so much Powder. Look for 6 Inches in the first Column, and for 3 in the head of the Table; and against 6, and under 3, you shall find 0. 996, that is, no Inches, but 996 thousand parts of an Inch; and so much will one Pound of Powder fill: Now if you multiply 0. 996 by 14. 5 (the quantity of Powder to Load the Gun) the Product will be 14. 44, that is 14 Inches, and 44 hundred parts of an Inch, and so high must the Cartredge be filled: agreeable to the former Example. CHAP. XX. Concerning Carriages for Pieces of Ordnance, and how they should be made. 1. MEasure the length of the Cylinder of the Gun; once and a half that length should the Carriage be. 2. Measure the Diameter of the Boar of the Piece, four of those Diameters is the depth of the Planks at the fore-end: In the middle three and a half: At the end next the Ground two and a half: And in thickness one Diameter. 3. The Wheels should be one half the Length of the Piece in height: The Saker and Minion Wheels must exceed the former by one twelfth part: The Falcon and Fauconet by one sixth part. CAUTION: If you find that the Ground is not levelly on which your Carriage stands, and that one Wheel is higher than the other: The Trunnions out of due place: The Piece not lying truly in the Carriage: The Carriage not truly made: you must get these things amended before you shoot. Otherwise never expect to make a true Shot. CHAP. XXI. Concerning Shooting in Great Ordnance, and how to Load your Gun Artificially, either with Powder or Cartredge. WHen you come to Charge your Piece, set your Bondge-Barrel on the Wind-side thereof; and causing one of your Matrosses to hold the same aslope, thrust your Ladle into the same, filling it full of Powder, and then strick it with a Ruler: Then fixing your Thumb just under the Staff of the Ladle, thrust the same home to the Chamber of the Piece, where the Powder is to lie, turning the Ladle so, as your Thumb be directly above the Staff, so will the Powder empty itself cleanly out of the Ladle: Then draw out the Ladle, and with the Tampion at the other end of the Staff, thrust home the Powder, causing one of your Assistants to hold his Finger or Thumb close on the Touchhole: then take a round close wad of Hay, (or untwisted Rope) thrust in the same with the Rammer head which is at the end of the Sponge Staff, and with it give three or four good strokes; this done, put in your Bullet with a Wad after it, if the Piece be not elevated; but without any Wad after it, the Gun being elevated, for then there is no fear of its rolling out. If you Load your Gun with a Cartredge (which is the best way) put the Cartredge home, with the Rammer, and after it a sufficient Wad. CHAP. XXII. How to give Level with a Piece of Ordnance to make a Shot at any mark within Point blank. FIrst, set your Dispart upright upon the Muzzle-Ring just over the Centre of the Mouth of the Piece: Then go to the Base Ring, and make a mark upon the highest part thereof, which is just over the Cylinder (if the Piece be true Bored) and take that for your true line. This done, go to the Breech of the Piece, and hold your head about two Foot there from, bringing your Eye, the mark upon the top of the Base Ring, the top of the Dispart, and the Mark you are to shoot at, all into one right line: which may be done by causing a Matross to raise or fall the Gun with an Hank-spike, as you shall direct him; and then stop the Motion of the Piece with a Coin; then Prime the Piece, and give Fire. CHAP. XXIII. Showing how to amend a Shot, which (by some accident) doth carry over, under, or wide of the Mark intended. WHEN you have made one Shot, which doth not answer your expectation, it must be either Higher, Lower, or Wide of the Mark, or both: To remedy any of which observe these following Rules: First, If at the first Shot you find the Piece to shoot directly over the Mark; Then so much make your Dispart longer, that the top of it may be just seen from the top of the Base Ring to the stroke of the Shot; and with this new Dispart levelly your Piece and give Fire. Secondly, If the first Shot had struck just under the Mark, then bring the Piece to its former position, and mark how much the Dispart is over the stroke of the Shot, and cut off of it just so much as being at the Breech of the Piece, you may discern the top of it, the Mark on the Base Ring, and the stroke of the Shot, in a right Line; and when you have brought it to such a length, levelly the Piece as before; Prime and give Fire. Thirdly, If the first Shot had struck on the right hand of the Mark; to mend it, you must levelly the Piece as before; then standing at the Breech of the Piece, observe the stroke of the Shot over the Dispart, and on that part of the Base Ring which you then look over in a right line towards the Dispart and stroke of the Shot, set up a Pin with a little soft Wax: Then levelly your Piece to the Mark by this Pin and the Dispart, and then doubtless you will make a good Shot.— For when you levelly by the Metal of the Base Ring, where the Pin is placed, and the Mark, the Piece standing at that direction, look over the top of the Dispart, from the mark in the Base Ring, and you shall find the Piece to lie so much to the Left, as the former Shot struck to the Right of the Mark; and should now in all probability hit the Mark. Fourthly, If the first shot be both wide, and too high, or too low; then use both the foregoing Directions:— First, Regulate the Dispart by making it longer, or cutting of it shorter, by the First and Second Directions hereof, the Shot being Lower or Higher, and then make Use of this Third Direction, for Shooting Wide: Which things being done with care and diligence, will doubtless mend a bad Shot. CHAP. XXIV. Concerning a Gunner's Ruler, for the Elevating of any Piece of Ordnance to any degree of Mounture, supplying the Use of the Gunner's Quadrant. FOrasmuch as a Quadrant cannot at all times be conveniently used; as when the Wind is high: Also in taking the depth or profundity of a Valley, or altitude of a Hill, etc. For the removing of all which inconveniencies this Gunner's Rule was invented, the Description and Figure whereof follow: The. Gunners. Ruler. Standing. upon the Breech of a Piece The Description of the RULER. The Ruler may be of any length, with a large Slit in the middle for a Slider to move in, and in the Slider a Hole to look through: The Ruler must be slit quite through at the bottom, and a piece of Brass fastened over it; but at the top it may be left whole for half an Inch or more; in which whole part, a Nut may be fastened, through which a Screw must pass, to raise or depress the Slider as occasion requires: On both sides of the Slit, the Ruler must be divided into Feet and tenth parts of a Foot; and every one of those parts into 10 more, so then every Foot will be divided into 100 parts.— Through the Centre of the little Hole, a small Line must be drawn quite through the Slider, which will show at what height the Sight-hole standeth from the Base Ring of the Gun.— Also there must be an Index to hang on the edge of the Ruler, and under it a small Pin, perpendicular to the Pin on which the Index hangeth; which is to set the Ruler perpendicular or upright. The Use of the RULER. THe principal Use of the Ruler is (as I said before) to Elevate any Gun to any degree of Mounture. To perform which, there is to be used with the Ruler, this brief Table of Natural Sins following. The use of the Table. EXample 1. Suppose a Gun, which is 8 Foot, and 7 Tenths of a Foot Long, between the Base and Muzzle Rings, the which Gun being Mounted and Disparted, is to be Elevated to 2 Degrees and 6 Tenths of a Degree of Mounture. A Table to be used with the Gunner's Rule. Tenth Parts of a Degree of Mounture. 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Whole Degrees of Mounture. 0 00000 00174 00349 00524 00698 00873 01047 01222 01396 01571 1 01745 01920 02094 02269 02443 02618 02792 02967 03141 03316 2 03490 03664 03839 04013 04188 04362 04536 04711 04885 05059 3 05833 05402 05582 05756 05931 06105 06279 06453 06627 06801 4 06975 07150 07324 07498 07672 07846 08020 08194 08368 08542 5 08715 08889 09063 09237 09411 09585 09758 09932 10106 10270 6 10452 10626 10780 10973 11147 11320 11494 11667 11840 12014 7 12187 12360 12533 12706 12880 13053 13226 13399 13572 13744 8 13917 14090 14263 14436 14608 14781 14954 15126 15299 15471 9 15643 15816 15988 16160 16333 16505 16677 16849 17021 17103 10 17365 17537 17708 17880 18052 18224 18395 18567 18738 18910 11 19081 19252 19423 19595 19766 19937 20108 20279 20450 20620 12 20791 20962 21132 21303 21474 21644 21814 21985 22155 22375 13 22495 22665 22835 23005 23175 23245 23514 23684 23853 24028 14 24192 24362 24531 24700 24869 25038 5207 25376 25545 25713 15 25882 26050 26219 26387 26556 26724 26892 27060 27228 27396 16 27564 27731 27899 28067 282●4 28401 2856● 28736 28903 29070 17 29237 29404 29571 29737 29904 30071 30237 30403 30570 30736 18 30902 31060 31233 31399 31565 31730 31896 32061 32227 32392 19 32557 32722 32887 33051 33216 33381 33545 33710 33874 ●●●●8 20 34202 34366 34530 34694 34857 35021 35184 35375 35511 35674 21 35837 36000 36162 36325 36488 36650 36812 37002 37110 37295 Forasmuch as the Gun is to be elevated 2 degrees and 6 Tenth parts of a degree; Look for 2 degrees in the first Colum of the Table, and for 6 parts of a degree in the head thereof; And against 2, and under 6, you shall find this Number, 04536, which multiply by 8. 7 (the length of the Gun in Feet and decimal parts of a Foot) the Product will be, 0394632. from which cut off (towards the right hand) five Figures for the Number taken out of the Table, and one for the 7 Tenths in length of the Gun, in all six Figures, then will the Product stand thus 0. 394632, which 0 to the left hand is no Feet, but the 3 following is 3 Tenth parts of a Foot, and the 9 following is 9 Tenths of a Tenth part of a Foot, which is near 4 Tenth parts of a Foot, and to that Number on the sides of the Ruler, must the stroke (and hole) in the Slider be brought, and then the Ruler is rectified for that Elevation Exam. 2. Suppose a Cannon, whose Length is 11 Foot and 3 Tenths of a Foot, were to be Mounted to 14 deg. and 4 Tenths of a degree, to what divisions on the sides of the Ruler must the Slider be set? Look in the first Columb of the Table for 14 deg. and for 3 Tenths in the head of the Table, so against 14, and under 4, you shall find this number 24869, which being multiplied by 11. 3 Foot, the length of the Gun, the Product will be 2810197; from which cut of 5 Figures for the number in the Table, and 1 for the 4 Tenths in the length of the Gun, it will stand thus 2. 810197, which is 2 Foot, and 8 Tenth parts of a Foot, and to that number on the Sides of the Ruler, must the Slider be set, to mount the Cannon to 14. 4 deg. of Elevation. CHAP. XXV. A Table, and the Use thereof, whereby you may give Level to a Piece of Ordnance, without the Gunners Rule or Quadrant, to any degree of Mounture under 11 degrees. The Length of the Gun. Degrees of Elevation. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Five Foot 1 3 2 6 3 8 4 11 5 14 6 16 7 19 8 21 9 25 10 28 Five and a half 1 14 2 28 3 42 4 56 5 70 6 84 7 98 9 12 10 26 11 40 Six Foot 1 22 2 44 3 66 4 88 6 10 7 38 8 58 9 78 11 8 12 29 Six and a half 1 36 2 72 4 8 5 44 6 80 8 17 9 53 10 89 12 25 13 63 Seven Foot 1 47 2 94 4 41 5 88 7 35 8 82 10 30 11 77 13 24 14 73 Seven and a half 1 58 3 14 4 71 6 28 7 85 9 42 10 99 12 57 14 14 15 71 Eight Foot 1 68 3 36 5 4 6 72 8 40 10 8 11 76 13 34 15 12 16 82 Eight and a half 1 79 3 58 5 37 7 16 8 95 10 74 12 53 14 32 16 12 17 92 Nine Foot 1 89 3 79 5 68 7 58 9 47 11 37 13 27 15 18 17 8 18 98 Nine and a half 2 0 4 0 6 0 8 0 10 0 12 10 14 2 16 3 18 4 20 4 Ten Foot 2 10 4 20 6 30 8 40 10 30 12 61 14 73 16 84 18 96 21 8 Ten and a half 2 21 4 41 6 69 8 88 10 81 13 28 15 48 17 68 19 89 22 10 Eleven Foot 2 31 4 62 6 93 9 24 11 56 13 88 16 20 18 51 20 82 23 14 Eleven and a half 2 42 4 84 7 26 9 68 12 10 14 53 16 95 19 37 21 80 24 21 Twelve Foot 2 53 5 06 7 59 10 17 12 65 15 18 17 71 20 25 22 78 25 33 Twelve and a half 2 63 5 20 7 89 10 52 13 15 15 78 18 41 21 4 23 67 26 33 Thirteen Foot 2 74 5 48 8 22 10 96 13 70 16 44 19 48 21 92 24 68 27 40 Thirteen and a half 2 84 5 68 8 52 11 36 14 20 17 4 19 88 22 72 25 56 28 42 Fourteen Foot 2 95 5 90 8 85 11 80 14 75 17 70 20 65 23 60 26 56 29 53 The Use of this Table. If you are destitute both of a Quadrant or a Gunner's Ruler, yet may you Levelly a Gun to any degree of Mounture under eleven deg. Exam. 1. Suppose you have a Gun whose length is 9 Foot and half, and you would elevate it to 5 degrees of Mounture. Look in the Table for the length of the Gun, 9 Foot and a half, in the first Columb of the Table, and in that Line under 5 deg. you shall find 10. 0, which is just 10 Inches, wherefore take any straight stick, and cut it off at that length, which set perpendicularly upon the top of the Base Ring, and levelly over the top of the Stick, as if it were the hole in the Slider of the Ruler, and the top of the dispart upon the Muzzle Ring, and you will make a good Shot. Exam. 2. Suppose your Gun were 12 Foot long, and you would Mount her to 7 degrees of Elevation. Look for 12 Foot long in the first Columb, and for 7 deg. in the head of the Table, and against 12 Foot, and under 7 deg. you shall find 17. 71, which is 17 Inches and 71 hundred parts of an Inch (which is almost 3 quarters of an Inch) a Stick of that length set perpendicularly upon the Base Ring, you may levelly over it by the top of the Dispart on the Muzzle Ring, as if it were through the hole in the Slider. But if you would Level without a Dispart, then take the Dispart off, and lay it to the foresaid Stick, cutting so much of it off, as was the length of the Dispart; then set the remainder of the Stick upon the Base Ring, and bring the top of the Stick, the Metal of the Muzzle Ring, and the Mark in one Right line, then Prime and give Fire, and doubtless you will make a good Shot. CHAP. XXVI. Concerning Shooting at Randon: HE that would learn perfectly to Shoot at Randon, aught, to draw his Piece into a level ground; Where, First, Shooting level, let him observe the distance in Feet or Paces, from the Gun to the Graze of the Bullet: Then mount his Pieee to one degree, and mark where that doth graze, noting the distance as before; Then, to 2, 3, 4, etc. degrees, to Ten degrees, and by these Elevations and Distances make a Table, by which Table, you may, by the Rule of Proportion, find how far another Piece will carry her Shot from degree to degree of Elevation:— But, because, it is probable, that every ordinary Gunner cannot have leave or opportunity (the charge being great) to make such Experiment, I shall here exhibit to your View, a short Table of Mr. N. N. by him made out of a Saker 8 Foot long, Loaded with 3 Pound of Powder; At the first Shot (at one deg. of Mounture) she conveyed her Shot 1125 Feet, or 225 Paces: The second Shot, at 5 deg. of Mounture she conveyed her Shot 2180 Feet or 416 Paces: At the third Shot, at 7 deg. of Mounture, 505 Paces: And the last at 10 deg. 630 Paces: In which Experiment, he loaded his Piece with loose Powder exactly Weighed, also he weighed the Wad, and beat down the same with the like (or equal) strength; and let the Piece cool half an hour between each Shot: Degrees of Elevation Randons' in Paces, 5 f. to a Pace. 1 225 2 274 3 323 4 370 5 416 6 461 7 505 8 548 9 589 10 630 Now by this Table and the Rule of Propotion may be found to what elevation another Gun must be mounted to reach any distance required: Exam. Suppose I find by my first Shot, that the Bullet grazed from my Gun 704 Paces, the Mounture of the Piece being 4 deg: How much must I Monnt her, so that she may convey her Shot 900 Paces? These distances of Randons' are to be proportioned to those in the Table, by this Anology. Saying As 704 Paces, (the Graze of the Bullet at 4 deg. of Mounture,) Is to 370 (the Paces against 4 deg. of Mounture) So is 900, (the number of Paces to be Shot) To 473, the Number to be found in the Table answerable to the Degrees of Mounture required. Therefore, multiply 370 (the number against 4 deg.) by 900, (the number of Paces to be Shot,) the Product will be 333000, which divided by 704 (the Graze of the Bullet at the first Shot) and the Quotient will be 473; which number I should seek in the Table, but finding it not there, I take 461 the next less, against which stands 6 degrees, and 505 the next greater, against which stands 7 deg. the difference between these two numbers is 44, which shows the Piece must be Mounted to 6 deg. and on third part of a degree for to reach the distance of 900 Paces: For 461 is less by 12 then 473, which is near one third part of 44 the difference. This Table beforegoing was deduced from an experiment made by Mr. Nat Nye the Master Gunner of Wortester in Anno 1647. But this Table being very short, and the use of it so absolutely necessary for Gunners (especially in Land Service) I shall exhibit to their view Two other Tables tending to the same purpose, long since calculated by an able Mathematician, viz. Mr. Henry Bond, which with their Uses take as followeth. The First Table of RANGES. D. 1 8758 2 7813 3 7077 4 6482 5 5991 6 5581 7 5234 8 4932 9 4669 10 4440 11 4237 12 4055 13 3889 14 3741 15 3606 16 3483 17 3370 18 3266 19 3279 20 3080 21 2996 22 2978 23 2845 24 2776 25 2712 26 2651 27 2593 28 2538 29 2486 30 2437 31 2391 32 2344 33 2300 34 2260 35 2221 36 2183 37 2146 38 2111 39 2077 40 2044 41 2012 42 1981 43 1952 44 2007 45 2041 46 2076 47 2113 48 2150 49 2189 50 2230 51 2272 52 2317 53 2363 54 2412 55 2463 56 2516 57 2572 58 2633 59 2695 60 2762 61 2832 62 2908 63 2989 64 3075 65 3168 66 3268 67 3376 68 3493 69 3621 70 3762 71 3916 72 4086 73 4276 74 4489 75 4732 76 5006 77 5303 78 5690 79 6263 80 6641 81 7274 82 8059 83 9061 84 10430 85 12330 86 15140 87 19850 88 29250 89 37480 90 00000 The Second Table of RANGES. D. 1 1. 142 2 1. 280 3 1. 413 4 1. 543 5 1. 669 6 1. 792 7 1. 911 8 2. 028 9 2. 142 10 2. 253 11 2. 361 12 2. 467 13 2. 572 14 2. 674 15 2. 774 16 2. 872 17 2. 968 18 3. 063 19 3. 156 20 3. 248 21 3. 339 22 3. 428 23 3. 516 24 3. 603 25 3. 689 26 3. 774 27 3. 858 28 3. 941 29 4. 024 30 4. 105 31 4. 186 32 4. 267 33 4. 347 34 4. 426 35 4. 505 36 4. 584 37 4. 662 38 4. 740 39 4. 818 40 4. 895 41 4. 972 42 5. 050 43 5. 127 44 4. 985 45 4. 902 46 4. 819 47 4. 736 48 4. 653 49 4. 570 50 4. 487 51 4. 403 52 4. 318 53 4. 234 54 4. 148 55 3. 062 56 3. 976 57 3. 889 58 3. 800 59 3. 712 60 3. 622 61 3. 532 62 3. 440 63 3. 347 64 3. 253 65 3. 158 66 3. 062 67 2. 963 68 2. 864 69 2. 762 70 2. 659 71 2. 554 72 2. 448 73 2. 339 74 2. 228 75 2. 114 76 1. 998 77 1. 880 78 1. 758 79 1. 634 80 1. 506 81 1. 375 82 1. 241 83 1. 102 84 0. 960 85 0. 812 86 0 661 87 0. 504 88 0. 242 89 0. 174 90 0. 000 The Use of the Two Tables. Question 1. If a Gun does carry a Shot, at 13 deg. of Mounture 763 Paces: What is the Horizontal Range of that Gun? Look in the first Columb of the first Table, for 13 the degrees of Mounture, against which you shall find 3889, Multiply this number by 763, the Paces that the Gun carried at 13 deg. of Mounture, the Product will be 2967307, from which cut off four Figures towards the right hand and it will be 296. 7307: So that the Gun will carry at the Horizontal Range 296 Paces, and 7 Tenths of a Pace. Also, If a Piece carries her Shot, at 16 deg. of Mounture 1074 Paces, the Horizontal Range of that Piece will be found to be 374 Paces: Question 2. If a Gun carries a Shot 296 Paces and 7 Tenths of a Pace at the Horizontal Range, how many Paces will she carry at 13 deg. of Mounture: Look in the first Columb of the Second Table for 13 (the degrees of Mounture) against which stands 2. 572, this number multiplied by 296. 7 (the Horizontal Range of the Piece) the Product will be 7631124, from which cut off 4 Figures, and it will be 763. 1124, that is 763 Paces, and so far will that Gun carry its Shot at 13 deg. of Mounture, which is answerable, and proves the foregoing Question. In like manner you may find, That if a Gun at its Horizontal Range carry her Shot 374 Paces, at 16 deg. of Mounture it will convey her Shot 174 Paces. Question 3. If a Piece carry her Shot 543 Paces at 11 degrees of Mounture, how far will she convey her Shot at 19 deg. of Mounture? Multiply the number standing against 11 in the first Table, which is 4237, by 543 (the Range at 11 deg. of Mounture) the product will be 2300691. Then multiply this product by 3: 156 (the number standing against 19 in the second Table) and this second product will be 726. 0980796, from, which seven figures being cut off towards the right hand, the remainder will be 726, and so many Paceswill she Range at 19 deg. of Mounture. And thus, If a Piece at 6 deg: of Mounture convey her Bullet 132 Paces, you shall find that at 12 deg. of Mounture she will convey it 181: 75 Paces: CHAP. XXVII. How you may make a good Shot at your Enemy's Light in a dark night. TO perform this, dispart your Piece, with a piece of lighted Match, then bring your Gun, so that you may see the top of the Metal at the Breech of the Piece, the coal of the Match, and the Light you are to Shoot at, all in one Right Line; Which done, give Fire. CHAP. XXVIII: How to make a perfect Shot in a dark night, at any mark (within the reach of the Piece) that you can see in the day time. MOunt your Piece to the Mark in the day time (as is before directed) and set down at what degree of Mounture is elevated, then cut a straight stick which shall reach from the middle of the Mouth of the Piece, perpendicularly down to the Platform, where make a Mark: Also, cut another stick which shall reach from the middle of the Breech of the Piece to the Platform, and there make another Mark, through which two Marks draw a right Line, extending it 4 or 5 Foot beyond the Marks, which call, The Line of direction. Then in the night Season, Load your Gun with such quantity of Powder and Weight of Shot, as you know your Gun will carry to the Mark, then bring your Gun just over the Line of Direction, and by help of your two Sticks, you may bring it to the like elevation it was in the day time. All this being done, Prime and give Fire. CHAP. XXIX. How to make a good Shot at a Company of Soldiers passing by; or at a Ship sailing up a River. THe Gun being Charged with its due quantity of Powder and Shot, and upon a Level Range, right against some Mark (as a bush Tree, etc.) between which, and the Gun, the Soldiers are to March, then when the Soldiers begin to hinder your Sight from the March you before observed, give Fire; and doubtless you will do good Execution. Also, to levelly at a Ship Sailing up a River, the Gunner must elevate his Piece by some Cloud (if he have not some eminent Mark on the other Side of the River) and when the fore part of the Ship shall come to be against the Mark, immediately give Fire. CHAP. XXX. Some Reasons, Why one and the same Piece of Ordnance at the same Elevation, charged with the same quantity of Powder, and directed to the self same Mark, and discharged several times, shall have different Rainges. FOr farther satisfaction in this particular. I must refer my Reader (as I said at the beginning hereof) to such Authors as have particularly discoursed of the Philosophical reasons hereof; As to Mr. Digs in his Pantometria and Stratiaticos; Mr. Smith, Mr. Bourne, Mr. Norton, Nicholaus Tortalia, and of late experimented by a painful man, in finding out the reasons of these Experiments, my loving Friend Mr. Robert Anderson; But shall here insert an Experiment made by Mr. Nat Nye sometime Mr. Gunner of the City of Worcester, which take as followeth, viz. I have (saith he) discharged a Piece seven times in the space of 50 minutes with the like Weight of Powder, Shot, and Elevation, and have found their Rainges as followeth, viz. The First Shot was Conveyed 416 Paces. Second 436 Third 440 Fourth 432 Fifth 425 six 410 Seventh 394 So that the greatest difference from the first Shot was about 24 Paces. The Reason of these things is this. At the First Shot, the Bullet found the Air quiet.— And at the Second Shot, it did not only find the Air stirred with the first Shot, but also tending towards the place at which it Shot, and because it is more easy to move and penetrate that which is already moved and open, then that which is close and quiet, it followeth that the Second Shot, finding in its Range a lesser resistance than the first did, it did out Shoot the first. A Second Reason is, At the first Shot the Powder being put into the Piece, doth oftentimes find the same somewhat moist, by which means the Powder will not fire quickly, as when the Piece is dry, and temperately warm, for this warmth, will somewhat dry up the moisture which is in the Powder, and cause it to fire sooner, wherefore the Powder doth not work so forcibly in the first Shot, as it doth in the second.— The Third and Fourth Shots will be much like the Second. And now I will give you the reason, why as the Piece grows hotter, one Shot will not exceed the last before it, but every time come shorter and shorter. The Piece waxing hotter, and by how much the hotter, by so much the more attractive is the concavity of the Piece made; and because the Shot is driven forth, or expelled, with no other thing then by the airy exhalation, or wind caused through the Salt-Peter; therefore, by making such a Piece the more attractive with the more heat, which suppeth and retaineth continually more and more of that Wind which should serve to expel the Bullet; the virtue expulsive in that Piece, doth continually, more and more decrease, and the Shot flieth not with that swiftness as it did before, although the two first things; that is, the breaking of the Air, and the drying of the Powder every time more and more doth help much the Range of the Shot; which aid and help, as it is to be believed, that sometimes it supplieth, and, perchance, gives advantage to that expulsive virtue which continually the Piece doth diminish or sup in, according as it heateth: So that the Third and Fourth Shots, will not be much differing from the Second Shot; nevertheless, in continuance of time, the said two accidents (that is, the opening of the Air, and drying of the Powder by the heat of the Piece,) cannot supply the Third accident; that is, the virtue attractive, by reason, the attraction is augmented as the Piece heateth. And this caused my Sixth and Seventh Shots to convey the Bullet 22 Paces shorter than the First. CHAP. XXXI. Concerning Shooting in a Morter-Piece, and of several Fire-Works, both for Sea and Land Service. Mortar Pieces are made of the same Metal (Brass or Iron) as Ordnance are made of; in the making (or Casting) whereof these proportions are to observed. Suppose the Diameter at the Boar to be Nine Inches. Then The Length of the Mortar must be 18 Inches. The Chamber in which you load with Powder 3 Inches Diameter, and 4 Inches and a half deep. The Thickness of the Metal about the Touch hole, 3 Inches. And The Thickness of Metal at the Mouth of the Mortar one Inch and a half To Prepare Granades for a Mortar. The Diameter from out to out of the Metal of a Granado Shell, aught to be one tenth part of an Inch lesser than the Diameter of the bore of the Mortar, because of cording them to sling into the Mouth of the Mortar, and also for fear of secret Cracks, Flaws or Honey Combs, which cannot easily be discerned; let them thus prepared, justly fit the bore of the Mortar. A Granado. To make Fuses for Granado Shells. In every Granado Shell, there is a hole left to put in a Fuse, or piece of wood in form of a Fawset for a Spigot, which hole is to be one quarter the Diameter of the wooden Fuse; and the length of the Fuse must be about three quarters of the Diameter of the Granado Shell, and made taper, and when filled with the Composition Following; it must be gently driven in amongst the Powder that is in the Shell, leaving a little of it without. The Composition for the Fuse. Take one Pound of Powder, four Ounces of Salt-Peeter, one Ounce of Brimstone, all beaten to Powder, and sifted severally through a fine Searse. These ingredients well mixed together, making your Composition fit for use. How Granades are to be Charged in the Mortar. Great care ought to be taken in the Loading and Charging of the Mortar, and for the safe and effectual performance thereof, observe these following Directions. First, Weigh the Powder which you put into the Chamber very exactly, and after it put in a close wad of Hay; which done, cut up a Turf of the ground, that may fill the bottom of the Bowl or Boar of the Mortar, next to the Wad, which is better than a Tampion of wood. Secondly, Your Grannado being prepared, sling it into the Mouth of the Mortar; observing to have the Fuse of the Granado just in the Centre of the Mouth of the Mortar. Thirdly, Go to the Breech of the Mortar, and there thrust up a Wire into the Touchhole, to make all sure, and then prime it with good dry Powder, such as you may be sure will take Fire, for upon this, both your own Life, and the safety of the Mortar (besides the disgrace) do depend. Directions for Firing, Provide small Fuses, of about one quarter of an Inch bore, three quarters of an Inch in thickness; and eight Inches long. Fill these with good Powder dust, moistened with Oil of Salt-Peter, moisten it but a little, and put it in with an Iron Rammer. Then try whether you like the time that they continue burning, and if you find they burn too slow, lessen your quantity of Oil of Peter; but if too last, add more Oil thereto. All things being thus ready, Thrust the Pike of your Linstock in at one end of the Fuse, you intent to give fire at; and bid one of your Assistants come on one side of the Mouth of the Mortar, and give fire to your Fuse, wherewith fire the Fuse in the Mortar, and then with speed give fire to the Touchhole. It is far more certain to fire a Mortar piece with Fuses then with Match, which doth often fail. How to Level the Mortar Piece that it may make an effectual Shot at any Mark assigned. You ought (as in finding the Rainges of other Pieces of Ordnance) to get leave to try One, Two or Three Shots for practice, without breaking of the Shell, which you may thus effect. First, Fill the Shell with powder, than put it out again, and Weigh it exactly, and fill the Shell again with the like weight of Earth. Secondly, Take a Fuse, and at the end of it tie 3 or 4 ounces of powder, which put down with the Fuse amongst the earth first making way for it by thrusting in a Staff, Thirdly, Levelly your Mortar by help of a Square or Quadrant to (always) above 45 degrees, and what degrees you mount it to note down carefully. Fourthly, All things being ready, and the Shell in and primed; cause One or Two to go and observe whether the Fuse burn all the while the Granado is flying, and when the 3 or 4 Ounces of powder takes fire, for hereby you may mend your Fuse, and try whether it will keep fire. Fifthly, These things observed, Measure that distance, and note it down under the degrees of mounture, as also the Weight of the powder the Mortar used to convey the Shell that distance. And when you have thus done two or three times, you may gain experience both of your Fuse, and of the true Range of the Piece: which obtained, if you are to storm a Fort or Castle Sixthly, Take the distance to the Town, Fort, or other thing you are to shoot at, by which (and your former experiment) you may find at what degree of Mounture your Mortar is to be elevated to reach such a Town, or the like; and that by the Reverse Rule of Proportion: Thus: As the distance when you made your trial, Is to the degrees of the then Mounture; So is the distance to your designed Place, To the degrees to which the Mortar must be elevated to reach that designed Place: EXAMPLE. Imagine that you made your Experimental Shot at 46 deg of Mounture, and the Shell flew 320 Paces; how many degrees must the Mortar be elevated, to cast its Shell 280 Paces, the distance that the place you are to shoot at, is distant from the Mortar? Multiply 320, by 46, the Product will be 14720, which divide by 280, the Quotient will be 52 Paces, and almost a half, and to so many degrees of Mounture must the Mortar be mounted to convey its Shell 280 Paces. Some Cautions relating to the foregoing Section, concerning the Mortar Piece. 1. Let your Powder (when you are to shoot often to the same place) be all of the same strength and goodness. 2. Use not Tampions of Wood, but a Wad of Hay and a Turf of Earth, both rammed in with the like strength. 3. Try your Shells before you fill them, by putting in a little Powder, and firing it, immediately stopping the Fuse-hole with Clay, for if any Smoke come out, the Shell is defective. 4. Weigh every Shell before you fill it, and make them all of one Weight, by putting in thereto so many Musket Bullets as will make their Weight even. 5. Fill your heaviest Shell with Powder (for that will contain least Powder) which done, pour it cut again, and weigh it very exactly; for such a quantity (and no more) will serve all your Shells. To make Granado's to be cast out of men's Hands. These small Granades are of no less esteem than the greater, either for Offence or Defence: To make them, First fill those small Shells with fine Gunpowder, then make Fuses of one Pound of Gunpowder, six Ounces of Salt peter, and one Ounce of Charcoal: Of if you would have them of less durance, you may make them of the Composition for Great Granades: Knock the Fuse up to the head within one quarter of an Inch, which is only to find it out by in the Night: Stop well the rest of the hole in the Granado, (and other flaws if any be) with soft Wax, then Coat it with Pitch and Hurds lest it should break with the fall; and be sure, that as soon as you have fired the Fuse, you cast the Granado out of your hand. Of the PETARD. A Petard. These Petards are made of Copper and Brass mixed; and their dimensions are sitted according to the use for which they are prepared; there being three chief uses of them, and so many sorts there are, viz. some for blowing up and breaking of Bridges; others for Gates that have Percullisies belonging to them; and the third sort for ordinary Gates 1. Those for Bridges are commonly 11 Inches long, and at the breech seven Inches and a half about, and 5 Inches wide within; the Metal at the breech must be one Inch and a Quarter thick, and at the neck half an Inch thick, besides the Muzzel-ring; the mouth must be 10 Inches wide, and to the Touch hole must be added a Pipe, as is in the Figure. 2. The second sort for Gates with Percullisises, must be 9 Inches long, almost half an Inch thick at the neck, and an Inch thick at the breech, the mouth must be about 7 Inches wide, and the outside of the breech must be six Inches wide, and the inside four Inches. 3. The third sort, which is for Gates and Palisadoes, must be seven Inches long, one fifth part of an Inch thick at the neck, and three quarters of an Inch at the breech, the mouth must be 4 Inches wide, at the outside of the breech it must be 3 Inches and a half, and at the inside thereof 3 Inches. The Charges for these Petards are to be of the finest powder that can be got, beaten hard in the Petard, yet not to break the Gun, then must it be stopped close in with a Board of about an Inch thick, justly fitted thereunto with Wax melted to stop the Crivesses about to keep out water, you must not charge it up to the top, but leave the breadth almost of two Inches empty, which must be filled up with Two close stopped in, and a linen Cloth bound about the Petards neck to keep it close in. The Touch hole must be stopped with a Cork, and over that a Cerecloth to keep it from the Wet. The Charge for this sort of Petard, is 5 or 6 pound of powder. Those of the second sort from 3 to 4 pounds. And for the smallest, from one pound and a half, to one pound. To make Darts or Fire-Arrows. A. Fire. Dart. or. Arrow. Provide a long Staff, and join unto it an Iron head, and about the middle of that head of Iron, having first made a Bag of strong Canvas, in form of an Egg, leaving open at the end a hole to fill the Bag with the Composition following, Take one Pound of Saltpetre, half a Pound of Gunpowder, and as much Brimstone in Powder, mix all these together with Oil of Petriol; with this Composition fill the Bag, round about the Arrow-head, and bind all about with nealed Wire. For the Priming of these Darts or Arrows, Dip Cotton-Week into Gun powder wet with water, and let the Cotton be well dried before you use it. For the joining of the Staff to the Arrow head, let it be done very slightly, that the Arrow-head being fastened into any thing, those may be deceived that intent to pull out the Head, for they will pull out the Staff only. How to make Fire-Wheels to be cast out of men's Hands. For the making of these, you are to use these Ingredients: Take four pound of Powder in Dust, one pound of Charcoal-dust, two pound of Tar; two pound of Saltpetre; and one pound of resin: All these Ingredients being well incorporated, A Fire Wheel. and heat over a gentle fire; steep Toe or Flax in the same, and then wrap the Toe or Flax about a Hoop, and then cover all this again with Powder-dust; and when you use them, givefire to them, and cast them among your Enemies; the Hoops ought not to be too big; but if you will, you may bind two of them a cross, like a Tavern-Bush, and then fire and fling them as afore. To make a Composition to fill Pikes, Darts, Javelines, Trunks, Balls, and other Fireworks; to defend a Ship or Breach, or to enter the same: Or to stick into the side of a Ship, or other Place. Take of Powder bruised eight Pound; Peter in Roach one pound; Peter in Meal one pound; Sulphur in Meal two pound; resin three pound; Turpentine one pound; Vert-degreace half a pound; Bolearmonick 5 Ounces; Bay Salt six Ounces; Colofonia 3 Ounces; Arsenic 2 Ounces. Mix these very well together: This Composition when fired will burn very furiously with a Blue and Greenish colour. The Cases, Bags or Balls, which you fill with this Composition, must (when filled) be Armed about with strong Twine or Cord, and then covered over with this mixture, melted in a Pot. Pitch 4 pound; Lin-seed Oil one pound; Turpentine 5 Ounces; Sulphur one pound; Tar 5 Ounces; Tallow one pound. Your Fireworks thus prepared are fit for service at any time; but when this outer Coating is cold, bore two holes with an Iron Bodkin, filling the same with fine Mealed Powder, putting in a small stick at each hole, which take out when you prime them for firing. Fireworks made of the Composition, and Arming as aforesaid, may be ordered so as to be thrown out of men's hands, shot out of a Musket, or out of a Cross or Long Bow; which may be of good use to fire Sails, Thatched Houses, Stacks of Corn or Hay, etc. To make a Composition that will burn and feed upon the water. Take of Mastic half a pound; White Frankincense, Gum Sandrake, Quick Lime, Brimstone, Camphire, Gun powder, of each one pound and a half; resin one pound; Salt-Peter four pounds and a half: All these mixed together when fired will burn violently and feed upon the water. To make a Composition that will burn under the Water. Take of Brimstone one pound; Gunpowder ten Ounces; Salt-Peter one pound and a half; Camphire beaten with Sulphur and Quicksilver: Mix these well together with Oil of Peter, or Lin-seed Oil boiled; fill a Ball or other Case of Wood, or Tin, with this Composition; Arm it as before, and ballast it with Lead at the bottom; make a small hole at the top, and fire it well and throw it into the Water. FINIS. OF THE MEASURING OF Heights, Depths, and Distances. I. How to take the Height of a Tree, Tower, Steeple, or other upright Building, by the Length of the Shadow thereof. Fig. I. LEt BASILIUS be a Castlewall, or the like, and the Sun shining casts the Shadow thereof upon plain ground to C, now having a walking-staff in my hand, I set that upright at the end of the shadow of the Wall at C, and I find; that my Staff casts its shadow to E, where I make a Mark, as also another at C, then measuring my Staff, I find it to be 38 Inches long, and measuring the length of the shadow thereof CE, I find that to be 46 Inches. Then Imeasure the length of the Shadow of the Castle Wall AC, and I find that to be 30 foot, which is 360 Inches: Now for the height of the Castle Wall, you must work by the Rule of Proportion thus: Saying, As CE, the Length of the Shadow of my Staff 46 Inches, Is in proportion to the Length of Staff CD, 38 Inches! So is AC, the Length of the Shadow of the Wall 360 Inches! To 435 30/●8 Inches, for the height of the Castle Wall; which you may call 436 Inches. For, If you multiply 46, the Length of the Shadow of the Staff, by 360, the Length of the Shadow of the Wall, the Product will be 16560, which being divided by 38, Inches the length of the Staff, the Quotient will be 435 10/18 Inches, which reduced into Feet is 36 foot 3 Inches and 30/38 of an Inch which you may call 4 Inches, and so high is the Castle Wall: II. How to take the height of a Watch-Tower, by the Shadow, when you cannot come to the bottom of it, to measure the length of the Shadow. Fig. II. LEt AB, be a Watch Tower, whose height I would know, by the Shadow thereof, but there is a Moat about it, as BC, so that I cannot come to measure the Shadow thereof; However, I come near to the Moat side, and there I find the Shadow of the top of the Tower to cast at C, where I erect my Staff CG, and that casts its Shadow to H; I measure the Length of my Staff, and I find it 4 foot, or 48 Inches; and the Length of the Shadow thereof CH, I find to be 32 Inches, these two I note down. Then, some time after, (when the Sun is lower) I come again to the place, and find the Shadow of the top of the Tower to cast at D, where again I erect the same Staff of 4 foot long, and find that it casts its Shadow to E, and that the length of the Shadow thereof, DE, is 4 foot 5 inches, or 53 inches and somewhat better, this I also set down, and then I measure the distance between the two places where the Tower casts its Shadow, at the First and Second time of my Observation, namely, the distance CE, and find it to be 10 foot, or 120 inches. And now having all these numbers set down, I come to find the Height of the Tower AB, by help of the Rule of Proportion, as followeth. (1) As DE, the length of the Shadow of the Staff DF at the Second Observation, 53 Inches: Is to 48 Inches, the length of the Staff; So is 10 foot (or 120 Inches) the Length of the Shadow between the two places of Observation C and D, To 108 Inches, or 9 foot. Which number 9 foot, or 108 Inches, set down And say again by Proportion, (2) As 48 Inches the Length of the Staff GC, Is to 10 foot (or 120 Inches) the distance between the two places of Observation C and D; So is 108 Inches (the Number before found) To 270 Inches, the Height of the Tower, which reduced into Feet is 22 foot 6 Inches. III. How to take the Altitude of any upright building, or the like, by a Bowl of Water. Fig. III. TRavelleing a long the Road I see a Maypole, as KL, the height whereof I would gladly know, but having no Geometrical Instrument, I procure a Bowl of fair Water, which I set down upon the ground, at M. And then, when the Water is still in the Bowl, I go backward, in a right line from the Maypole, till I see the Shadow of the top of the Maypole in the middle of the Water; which I do when I come at N, and at N, I make a Mark upon the Ground: Then do I measure the distance from the foot of the Maypole at L, to the Bowl of Water at M, and find it to be 175 Inches: Also, I measure the distance from the Bowl of Water at M, to the place of my standing at N, and find that to be 72 Inches: Then I measure the Height of my eye from the Ground ON, and find that to be 60 Inches; These things known, I say by the Rule of Proportion. If 72 Inches distance MN, give 60 Inches Altitude NO; What Altitude shall 175 Inches the distance LM give? Answer 145 60/72 Inches. For, if you multiply 175 by 60, the Product will be 10500, which divide by 72, the quotient will be 145 60/●2, that is almost 146 Inches, which is, 12 foot 2 Inches for the height of the Maypole K L, required. IU. How to take the height of any upright Building, that is approachable, by two Sticks or Rulers joined together, Square-wise. Fig. IU. LEt P Q be some Structure, standing upright upon plain Ground, whose height you require. Go unto some convenient Court, Yard, Garden, or other piece of level Ground adjoining to the building to be measured, then take your Square in both your hands, holding it perpendicular, which you may do, by having a Thread and Plummet as T V, hung upon a pin near the top of the Square at T, Then keeping it in this posture, go backwards, or forwards, (as occasion requires) till your Eye being at X, you can see the other end of your Square at T, and the Top of the Building at P, all in one Right-Line, which when you do, make a stand, as at S Then measure the height of your Eye from the Ground X S, with a string, and set that length upon the Ground from the place of your standing at S, to R: Then measure the distance from R, to Q, for that shall be equal to the height of the building P Q, and is here 210 foot. V. How by help of this Square, standing upon a Platform of a known height, to find the distance from the Platform, to any Tree, River, or other Object that is remote from you, Fig V: LEt A B be a Platform, whose Perpendicular height is 100 foot; being upon the top thereof at A, I would know how far the Oak at C, is distance from the bottom of the Platform at B. Upon the top of the Platform at A, I erect a Pike or Javeline 12 foot long, more or less, upon which, I hang the Angle of my Square: And I look with my Eye at D, along the side of my Square, till I see the bottom of the Oak at C, and in this position I fix my Square, with a Screw or the like, to the head of the Javeline: Then from D, I extend a thread or Line by the side of my square, till it touch the Platform at E, and then I measure the distance upon the Platform from A to E, and find it to be 24 foot, 6 Inches, then by proportion I say As 12 foot, the Length of the Javelin D A, Is to 24 foot and a half, the distance measured upon the Plaform A E, So is 112, the height of the Platform and Javelin together B D. To 228 foot 8 Inches, for the distance B C. VI How to take the distance from the place of your standing upon level Ground, to any Tree, Tower, or other thing, remote from you, though you cannot come near the same, by your Square. Fig. VI STanding at F, I see a Coundit-head at G, whose distance from F where I stand, I would know, but I cannot come near it for a River between F and G; However, At F, I erect a Staff of 4 foot high, (or 48 Inches) as F H, upon the end whereof I hang the Angle of my Square, and I look by the side thereof, till I see the foot of the Coundit-head at G, and fixing my Square there, I extend a line from H, by the side of the Square, till it touch the Ground at K: Then measuring the distance between F and K, I find it to be 3 foot or 36 Inches: Then by the Rule of Proportion I say, As 36, the distance K F, Is to F H, the Length of the Staff 48 Inches: So is 48 inches, the length of the Staff F H. To 64 inches; for the Distance F G, For as often, as K F, is contained in F H, So often is F H, contained in F G. VII. How to take the Breadth of a River by the Square. Fig. VII. THere is a River M P O, whose breadth I desire to know: Upon the brow of the River at M, I set up my Staff M L, which is 60 inches (or 5 foot) long, and hanging my Square upon the end thereof at L, I look by the Side thereof, till I see the Brow of the River on the other side at O, and there fixing my Square, I extend a third by the Side thereof, from L to N, then measuring the distance L N, I find it to be 15 inches (or 1 foot 3 inches) than I say by Proportion, As N M, the distance measured; 15 inches Is to L M, the length of the Staff 6 inches. So is L M 60 inches. To M O, 240 inches, (or 20 foot, for the breadth of the Ri-River M O. VIII. How to take the Distance between Two (or more) Places, without coming near any of them, by a Two Foot Joint Rule. Fig. VIII. Fig. IX. LEt the two remote Places given, be A and B, whose distance I would know, but I cannot approach, or come near either of them, and I have no other Instrument but my Two Foot Joint Rule; however, I make choice of a Place at C, from whence I can see both the Places A and B, and there I set up a Staff whereon to rest my Rule, and opening it to a Square Angle, I look by one side of it, till I espy my first place, at A, and there keeping it fast, and levelly, I look by the other side of the Ruler, and cause a Mark to be set up in a right Line from C, at a competent distance from C, as at D, 150 foot, then close in your Rule, till by the side thereof you see your second place at B, keep your Rule at that Angle: Then having a sheet of Paper, or upon a Board, as Figure IX. draw two Right Lines thereon, as K L, and L M, making a Right (or Square Angle) at L. Then bring your Ruler, (it being still kept at the Angle it was when you looked to B,) and lay the Centre of your Ruler upon L, and by the side of it draw a Line L M, and, because your measured distance between C and D was 150 foot, take 150 quarters of Inches (150 of any equal parts that you have upon your Ruler) and set them down upon your Paper or Board, from L to M. Then take your Rule and go to D, and set the Centre of it upon the Staff, look by one side thereof to C, and by the other to A, then bring the Rule to the Board, and lay the Centre thereof on M, and one side upon the line M L, and by the other side, draw a Line at length as the Line M O, crossing the Line L K in O, so shall O, upon your Board, represent the Place A in the Field: Again, Take your Rule, and go to D, and there resting it upon the Staff, look by one edge to A, and by the other to B, and keeping it at that Angle, bring it to the Board, and lay one Side upon the Line M O, and by the other draw the Line M P, crossing the Line L N in the Point P, so shall P represent upon the Paper the Second Place B in the Field, and being measured upon the same Scale whereof L M was measured, it will be found to be 250 foot, and that is the distance from A to B. And by this means you may find the distances of all the Places in the Figure, if you measure them upon the same Scale as L M, or O P were measured, and so shall you find The Distance L O to Contain 128 Foot L P 317 M O 200 M P 220 X. How to take the Distance between One or more Places, by a Ten Foot Rod (divided into Inches) only. Fig. X. Fig. XI. STanding at A, I would know how far it is to the Tree at B, though I cannot come near it. Standing at A, I measure in a right Line from thence 30 foot, from A to a: And then looking towards D, I measure out 30 foot more, and from A to C; and measuring the distance a C, I find it to be 25 foot, which laid down upon Paper do make the Triangle A C a, of which draw the Line A a out at Length, Then standing at C, I measure in a right Line towards B, 25 foot, from C to b, and the distance between a and b, I measure to be 20 foot, which makes the Triangle C a b, Draw the Side C b at Length, till it cross the former Line A a, extended in B; So shall the Line A B, (being measured by the same Scale that the other Lines were laid down by) be found to contain 82 foot, and such is the distance between A and B. And according to this Method, may the distances from several Places be measured, As in Figure XI. Where standing at G and H, you may find the distance between E and F; and also, all the other intermediate distances, as from G or H, to E or F, as also the distances G E, G F, H E, H F, etc. as by the Figure is evident. FINIS.