The Perilous and most Unhappy VOYAGES Of JOHN STRUYS, Through Italy, Greece, Lifeland, Moscovia, Tartary, Media, Persia, East-India, Japan, and other Places in EUROPE, AFRICA and ASIA.  
Containing, 

I. Most accurate Remarks and Observations of the distinct Qualities, Religion, Polity, Customs, Laws and Properties of the Inhabitants:  
II. A due Description of the several Cities, Towns, Forts and Places of Trust, as to their Site and Strength, Fortifications by Nature, or Art, etc. with other things worthy of Note: and,  
III. An exact Memorial of the most disastrous Calamities which befell the Author in those Parts (viz) by Shipwreck, Robberies, Slavery, Hunger, Tortures, with other Incommodities and Hardships.    
To which are added 2 Narratius sent from Capt. D. Butler, relating to the Taking in of Astrachan by the Cosacs'.  
Illustrated with divers curious Plates, first designed and taken from the Life by the Author himself.  
Rendered out of Nether-dutch by JOHN MORRISON.  
LONDON, Printed for Samuel Smith, at the Prince's Arms in S. Paul's Churchyard MDCLXXXIII.   

The TRANSLATOR to the READER.  
Ingenuous Reader,  
HISTORY, which is the Light of Truth and Life of Memory, hath two Eyes, viz, Chronology and Topography: That, giving Evidence of Things and Actions as to the Time, This, as to the Place. Among Histories (saith an incomparable Doctor) Itineraries have the pre-eminence, in which we have the most memorable Things and Events faithfully related ex 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉, (as he phrases it) or, from Eie-wittness: The Utility and Certainty whereof may be mesured from the Reputation and Conscience of the Relater.  
AND these, as they are more delectable to read, because ever interspersed with Actions as well as Things, so they are more to be valued in respect of their Credit. Thucydides that most excellent Historian was highly accounted of by Dionysius Halicarnasseus, Cicero, Fabius, and others famous in the World; but abov all by Demosthenes the noble Orator of Athens, who to make his works the more familiar to himself, is affirmed by Lucian to have copied them 8 times over; and all this for his Faithfulness and Credit, being himself a chief Captain in the Peleponesian Wars, and an Eie-wittness from the Beginning to the End. Even so is Strabo justly preferred before Pomponius M●la, Ptolemy and other Geographers, for that he is said to have written about no Place but what himself had seen, as partly may be gathered out of those words of Blancan 
* Blancan. in Chronol. Mathem.  Strabo eruditissimè ac fusè orbis situm, cujus magnam partem peragraverat, descripsit. And what a veneration has the World for that of R. Benjamin, the famous jewish Geographer? not only for his elegant manner of describing Things memorable and worthy of Remark (in which, saith Neander, he was second to none) but that he took little or nothing upon Credit, having himself travailed through the most considerable part of the World, and consequently (with the help of his great Judgement and Experience) able to correct the Mistakes of others, who had made too bold Conjectures. Experience every Age makes a new Discovery of old Errors, and Mercator often givs Ptolemy the Lie.  
— Aetes' semper aliquid adportet novi.  
— Seris venit usus ab annis.  
SUCH Observations as pertain to various Regions and Diversity of Countries may also seem to giv a more general Satisfaction, and to be of greater Utility than Descriptions peculiar to one place; Semper laudata fuit historia quae non unius regionis cancellis constringitur; sed quam latè terrarum termini extenduntur, expatiatur. They are L'Empereur's Words.  
BUT as it is not needful that I should make many instances of such Observations in general, as to their usefulness, so I shall not weary my Readers Patience further than what I shall say to these in particular, which is the only reason I have to use the formality of a Preface, that might as well have been left out, if some few reasons had not urged me to the contrary, but chiefly to anticipate what I presage some will object against them, aswell as in consideration of what a Great Man in the last Age said, 
* Erasm. de Utilit. Colloqu.  Non tutum est ullum emittere Librum nisi satellitio munitum: as if he would say, 'Tis not safe to put forth any Book unless guarded with a File of Musquetiers.  
OUR Traveller without doubt will frustrate the expectation of some, in not giving a more ample account of every Country he has seen, by an accurate noting down of the Religion, Polity, particular Rites and Customs of the Inhabitants, nor making a further scrutiny as to the Antiquity and Original Descent and Offspring of the People as some have done. 'Tis undeniably so, for I find him more busy in recording the circumstances of his own personal condition, and what befell him in remote Places, than remarking the State and Quality of the Land and People, nor do I hold it consistent with the Duty of him that would be a faithful Interpreter to do that Office for him; notwithstanding the Freedom some has assumed in another Language (or shall I say, Another Work) to leave out more than 70 entire Paragraphs, in several places through the Book, and supplied the vacancy by transcribing out of other Journals, which I am confident is not to be found either in the Authors Autograph, or Printed Copy.  
THE Gentleman's reason, I conceiv, was because the Matter of what he thought good to ommit was not so solid, containing some homely Passages not to be taken notice of, and consequently would not endure such soaring Language, as things more sublime and important would, for, Ex quovis ligno non fit Mercurius. Nor had it been less warrantable for me to have done the like, and tacitly to have passed over such humble Matter as would rather challenge an expression of homely Sentences than festivity of Style, which the friendly Reader will find I'm no where guilty of.  
THIS Journal, I am bound to say (notwithstanding the main Advantages our Author wanted, both in Estate and Parts, which you'll readily infer no Traveller ought to be without, that would bring his Observations upon the public Theatre of the World) have nevertheless found a gremious entertainment amongst all sorts of Men, being already published in several Languages: nor can I find any reason to fear, but, as it is for a more universal Perusal taught to speak English, 'twill be as acceptable to our own Nation, as it has been abroad in other Country's, where they are in general more inclined to read Fictions and Fables, than true Philology, and such as may justly be convinced by that of an obscene, but witty 
* Martial. in his 10th Book of Epigrams.  Poet: 
Qui legis Oedipodem calligantèmque Thyestem,  
Colchidas & Scylla's, quid nisi monstra legis?  
Quid te vana juvant miserae ludibria chartae?  
Hoc lege, quod possis dicere jure, Meum est.   
OBSCENE indeed inclusiuly, but justifiable enough in this, for, as the great Casaubon in his modest Answer to the Epistle of Cardinal Du Perron saith, E felle mero mel merum interdum existit, so there is nothing so corrupt or putrid, but that something sound may be extracted from it.  
CERTAINLY the Discrepance of men's Fancies must be notedly great, if the Price and Perusal of this small Volume should seem too great and laborious to the Buyer and Reader, which has cost the Author so much Time and Pains in Travail, for the greatest part of Six and Twenty years, during which time he has been attended with continual Perils on the one hand and unspeakable Sufferings on the other: by Land in perpetual Jeopardy of his Person for Robbers, Cannibals, Ravenous and venomous Animals; by Sea for Pirates, Shipwrecks, etc. and by both, subject to Hunger, Thirst, Scorching Heats, Colds, Sickness, and other unavoidable Extremities and gravaminous Solitudes; besides the lamentable Condition of Slavery, in which I found him both among Turks, Tartars and Persians, yet after all returned home in safety, and at this present here in London.  
IT is a thing no less customary than unmannerly among some, who will hold all things for forged and false, except what themselves see, and would have all themselves say to be received for Oracles. 'Tis not long ago that a young Sycophant (and one perhaps, who thought himself something prejudiced) affirmed that the Pourfiles of those Persian City and others, were but imaginary Fictions, and that, I believe, because the Etcher had set the Letter [In.] for [Invenit] after his Name as who should say, but that every Engraver and Etcher understood s● much Latin, as rightly to distinguish between Pinxit, Invenit, Sculpsit, Fecit and Excudit, which they often use promiscuously for each other: but besides my knowledge of our Travellers ability in Drawing, I have other reasons to give credit to him, as to his faithful Delineation of those Places, which, for this time being so narrowly circumscribed, I am forced to ommit.  
THE first Voyage perhaps may not afford such satisfaction as some will expect, and by consequence give the Reader no Appetite to go forward; but he whose leisure will permit him to go forward, will in the 2d and 3d Voyages find amends for what is defectiv in the first.  
IT was intended also to publish his 4 th'. Voyage with this, which has not as yet been printed in any Language, but finding the Author's leisure not answerable to those Intentions, we shall defer it for the next Edition, if this prove but so acceptable, as to give occasion for another: which we know is not usual with Books of this nature, that serve no more than for once reading, and not for a daily recourse.  
IN the first Voyage we find him embarked for Genoa in a new Ship, which, with another, was built for that State at Amsterdam in the year 1647. From Genoa he went to the East-Indies, where by the way he gives a very exact Description of the Salt-Islands, Sierra Liones, Madagascar, Syam, (with the most horrible Massacre committed upon the greatest Personages in that Kingdom) then proceeds on his Voyage for japan, where he gives you an account of that Island and Formosa.  
IN the second the most remarkable is the Engagement between the Venetians and the Turks, by Sea, in which the former fought a signal Victory. In this Voyage I also find a very accurate Description of the Greek Islands, as they are now peopled, with several Footsteps of Antiquity.  
IN the third, and last as yet extant, he goes to Moscovia to serve the Czar aboard a new Ship which was built on the Wolga, whereby the way he gives you a Description of Lifeland and its Inhabitants, as also Moscovia and the Imperial City Moscou; then proceeding forward he comes at last to the Wolga, where setting sail for Astrachan, notes punctually what every day occurred. Arriving there he gives you an account of the Insurrection and Proceeding of the Cosac-Rebels, and the occasion why he and his Company fled over the Caspian Sea; with the great hardship they suffered till they got ashore, where besides many cruel Torments were made Slaves by the Tartars, in which condition he continued till he was redeemed by order of the Governor and Council for the Dutch East-India Company at Batavia, whither he travailed through Persia, and being by order of the said Company sent home aboard the Ship Europa, which was taken by the English in the last Dutch Wars; he himself was sent for Ireland with about 300 more of his Countrymen. Where arriving imbarques himself for England, and so home.  
St. Alban july 30, 1683. I.M.   

A TABLE, Or Summary Comprehension Of every Paragraph in the Three VOYAGES Of JOHN STRUYS.  


The FIRST VOYAGE.  
CHAP. I. THe first Occasion of the Authors going to Travel. A Sea-Storm. Arrival at Gibraltar, at Genua, with its Description, at Velez Malaga. Rescontre with 9 Corfairs of Algiers. Arrival at Boam Vista. A Description of the Salt Islands, Ilha Mayo, Ilha del Fuogo, St. Jago and Ilha del Braeva. Proper Climate of those Ilses. Arrival at Sierra Liones; The great Incivility of the King, alured to come aboard, fettered, and afterward thrown over board, A Description of Sierra Liones. Pag. 1.  
CHAP. II. Arrival at Madagascar. The remarkable Chance of the Commander, meeting with the King. The Death of the Vice-Commander Benning; and the disorders thence arising. Both the Ships put in a Fight Posture, and ready to give each other Battle. Voogt yields, and is fettered. The description of Madagascar; it's Fertility, Store of cattle; Goodness of their Sheep; Many kinds of Monkeys. Nature of the Inhabitants, Form, Habit, House-keeping, Marriages and Funerals. Their impious cruelty ever their Children. Their Religion, Policy and Wars. Pag. 12.  
CHAP. III. The Author's departure from Madagascar, Arrival at Sumatra. Four Prizes belonging to Atchin taken. The beastly Sensuality of some of the Ships-company upon a Woman. The Ship whereon the Author was, taken as Prize, and brought up to Batavia. The men plundered, and their Chests broken up. The Author admits himself into the Service of the East India Company, his Voyage to Siam. An accurate description of that Kingdom. Pag. 24.  
CHAP. IU. The nature and way of Living of the Siamers. Their several Trades and Profession. Travail of their Merchants. Government and Polity. The great State of the Emperor, and Magnificency of his Throne: his Cavalcade, and manner of showing himself to his People. The Riches of his Vessels, & the Elephants served in Gold and Silver. The Wars about the white Elephant, against Ava and Pegu. Pag. 29.  
CHAP. V. The Revenues and Treasury of the King of Siam. The Religious zeal of those Kings in building of Temples, and Houses for pious uses. Soldiers without pay. The great Slavery and Charges of the Citizens and Plebeians, their Obedience, and Liberality in Devotion. Ample Revenues of the Spiritual. Habit and Function of their Priests. The Multitude and monstrous bigness of some of their Idols. Their Ceremonies in Worship; wherein congruous to those of the Romish Religion. Pag. 34.  
CHAP. VI Good materials for building in Siam. Their manner of House-keeping, and entertainment of Friends. Neatness and cleanliness in their Houses and Bodies. Their way of dressing themselves, both men and Women. Strange Contracts of Matrimony. Early marriage. Education of their Children. Learning and learned Men had in great veneration. Rites about their deceased. Urbanity in their Conversation. The great Affection of the Emperor towards Strangers etc. Pag. 37.  
CHAP. VIII. The Sieur van Muyden invited to the Exequys of the Princess. A stately Scaffold erected for the Solemnity of the day. A magnificent and sumptuous Altar. Ornaments of the Corpse. The Train attending the Ceremony: Order of the same. Money thrown among the people. Stages erected for the Almosners. Artificial Fireworks. The vast Charges of this Preparation. Pag. 41.  
CHAP. IX. The Body of the Princess burnt. A remarkable token, whereby, it was concluded that she was poisoned. The King's fury against all the Domestics of the Princess, who are committed to custody. The cruel Punishment of the suspected Parties. A strange way to find out the guilty. Elephants used as Executioners. Fifty men and Women executed in one day, some by Elephants, others buried in the Earth, to the Head, where they are suffered to starve. A Young Lady with her Brother taken and dispatched. Their Candour, and free resolvedness to die. Pag. 44.  
CHAP. X. The proud, and blasphemous Titles of the King of Siam. The great Preparations used to assuage the Waters of the Ganges. Pag. 50.  
CHAP. XI. Departure from Siam. They take a Junk. The Cambodiers put in a Ship without Rudder or Sails. Arrival at Formosa. The Junk and all the Men cast away. A Description of Formosa, with an account of its Products, and the Nature of its Inhabitants, as also their Houses, Habit and Customs. Pag. 54.  
CHAP. XII. The Author departs from Formosa. His arrival at Japon. The Description of Nanguesaque. The Condition of the Town. A dreadful fire at Nanguesaque. The Stature, Nature, Habits, and Customs of the Japoneezes. Departure from Japon. Arrival at Formosa the second time. Their return to Siam, where they take in Elephants. The Author beat with a ropes-end at the Mainmast, and why. His return for Holland, and End of the first Voyage. Pag. 59    


The SECOND VOYAGE.  
CHAP. I. AN account of the Authors undertaking his Second Voyage. A great Sea Storm. His arrival at Yarmouth, and at Leghorn, with a Description of that Town; as also of Pica and Florence, and lastly of Bologne. Pag. 65.  
CHAP. II. The Author departs from Bologne, and arrives at Ferrara. Assailed by a Robber: His Arrival at Venice, where he lists himself in the Armade. He arrives at Sante. A great storm between Milo and Argentero. The Ship called The Golden Cock split upon Rocks. A sad Shipwreck. A Woman wonderfully saved. The Author's arrival at Candia: Departs with a Tartan to the Venetian Armade. Their Appearance before Mytilene, where they obtain much Spoil and Provision; at last assaulted by 200 of the Turkish Chivalry. Their Encounter, and return aboard the Fleet. Pag. 73.  
CHAP. III. The Author's Arrival at Sante Monte; and at Troy. The Galleys of Bay come with the Turkish Armade. An English Ship engaged with the Turks; defends herself manfully, and at last burned. The Author made Slave, and put in a Galley, with an old Russ: Consult to escape: Betake themselves to Water, and are discovered. The Russ shot with an arrow. They come both to the Venetian Armade. Pag. 78.  
CHAP. IU. The fugitiv Slaves brought before the General. The manner of their Encouraging their Men. Number of the Venetian Ships and Galleys. Names of the Commanders and Chieftains. The Malteezes join with the Armade. The Turkish Fleet sail up, endeavour to break through, and are hindered by the Malteezes. The Turks throw up two Batteries. A dreadful Engagement, and playing off the Cannon for three days together. The Turks begin to settle. The Stability and valour of the Venetians. The Turks lose their Courage. Pag. 82.  
CHAP. V. The Wind turns in favour of the Venetians. The Turks flee and are obstructed. The brave Courage of the Galleys of Bey. General Marcello killed. The manly Behaviour of Lazaro Mocenigo, who loses one eye. Two Dutch Ships, to wit, Het Wapen van Nassan, and Den David en Goliath, blown up with their own Powder. The Turkish Capitana yields. The General and disorderly Flight of the Turks. Their total overthrow, and loss on both sides. Pag. 87.  
CHAP. VI The Siege of Tenedos. The two Castles surrendered. A description of Tenedos. Lemnos, it's Situation, and taking in. The present state of Greece. I. Struyl's arrival at Pathmos and Samos. Taken by the Turks with 6 of his Companions, and soon after ransomed. Pag. 90.  
CHAP. VII. The Author admits himself again into the Service of the Venetians. Arrival at Corfu with an account of its Strength, Bulwarks, Sconces and other Fortifications, near, and about the City. Fertility of the Island. Arrival at Cephalonia, it's Fertility, Situation and Strength. Arrival at Sante, an account of its Strength, its Villages, Scarcity of fresh Water. Arrival at Cerigo: Situation of that Island, Relics, or Ruins of the Temple of Venus. Pag. 96.  
CHAP. VIII. The Author's arrival at Sante, or Xante, It's admirable Strength, Villages, and great Scarcity of fresh Water. Their Dough for bread kneaded with Wine in stead of Water. Arrival at Cerigo; Situation of that Island. Relics of the Temple of Venus. Arrival at Candia, with its Situation. A Description of the City, as to its Strength, Inhabitants, the most eminent Buildings and Churches, Climate, Soil, Vintage, Fruits, Vegetables, cattle, Fowl, Plenty of Silk and other Commodities, as also the modern Habit and Attire of the Candians. A Description of Standia. The famous Fight between Lazaro Mocenigo and the Tributary Auxiliaries of Algiers, Tripoli, Theunis and Zoëli. The Fort of Zovaschi taken in by the Proveditor Mocenigo. The Turks attack Tenedos, but in vain. The Turkish Armada come out of the Dardanelli. The Beginning of the Engagement. The Turkish Emperor comes with an Army of 20000 Horse, and 80000 Foot down to the shore, where from a high Tent he sees the Engagement. The Turks lose their Posts, and Sail off. The incomparable valour of Mocenigo and Bembo, who are unluckily killed by the fall of a Sailyard. Their Galley blown up with 400 Men. The Loss and Gains both on sides. Pag. 98.  
CHAP. IX. The Venetian Armade appear before Napoli di Malvazia, where they attack a Redoubt, which is surrendered. The City treats with the Gouèrnour. The Fleet appears before Santorini; 2 terrible Earthquakes: Wine good and cheap. The Author sent ashore to buy Provision. The Fleet under Sail. The Turks come upon the Island, & the Author in danger of being made Slave; hidden by the Greeks, and brought to Embro with a Bark. Arrival before Nicsia, The Ruins of Apollo's Temple. Arrival at Metelino, it's Situation and Strength; plenty of Marble, Cypress wood, Wine, and cattle. Nicsia the Winter-haven for the Turkish Galleys. S. Georgia de Scyro. Delos: Relics and Ruins of Heathenish Temples and Images of Apollo, Minerva and Diana. The Castle of Tenos blown up with its own Powder. The Island Milo, it's Situation, Strength, Harbours, Inhabitants, Religion, store of Provision and Victuals. The Dutch Ship De Princes, springs a leak. The Author goes aboard a Privateer, leavs her and goes for Holland. Pag. 106.    


The THIRD VOYAGE.  
CHAP. I. THe Author undertakes his Third Voyage for Moscovia. The Names of the Officers and others employed with him on that Journey and Voyage. Their Difficulties in going out. Arrival at Riga, with a Description of the Town, and their Departure from thence. The Nature of the Lifelanders their Houses, Customs, Condition, Religion, and acquaint form of an Oath. Arrival at Wolmar, with a Description thereof. Their difficult Travels through Lifeland. Pag. 113.  
CHAP. II. Arrival at Pitsiora, and at Pletskow, A strange Passage of a hungry Bear. The Spindle-bone or Shank of a Giant. The Pleasant Prospects and delightsom Landships of Moscovia. Arrival at Novogorod. The Antiquity and former Glory of that City; how taken by the Moscovian, and Fortified by the Swede. Their Departure from Novogorod, Rescounter with a Company of Robbers, and Arrival at Colomna. Great abundance of Wolus. Coldness of the Climate. Pag. 120.  
CHAP. III. A Quarrel with the Russians, Eight Dutch Merchants murdered in a Wood Arrival at Tweer, Another Rescountre with a Party of Robbers. Money sent from Moscou. Pursuit of their Journey. They enter Moscou. Their good Reception. The great Bear-Garden. Wolf and Bear-baiting. Death of the Empress, and the pompous Exequys. Pag. 125.  
CHAP. IV. Situation of Moscou. It's Divisions and Wards. Kitay-Gorod the first City. The great number of Churches and Cloisters. High Towers. Noted Humility and Obedience of a Russian Gentleman. The greatest Bell in the World at Moscou. The Church of jerusalem, Zaar-gorod the second, Skoredous the third, and Strelitza Slowoda the fourth Town. Great number of Houses within the City Moscou. A great Fire, whereby many Houses within the City Moscou. A great Fire, whereby many Houses were consumed. The coldness of the Climate. Diseases proper to the Country. Fertility and Products of the Land. Pag. 130.  
CHAP. V. The Form, Nature and Property of the Russes. Their ordinary Diet. Their great esteem of Brandy. Their ordinary Habit. Women use painting of their Faces. The manner of their Marriages, and nuptial Solemnities. Pag. 137.  
CHAP. VI Divorcement among the Russes and the sundry occasions thereof. Their Superstition about Cleanness and Uncleanness. Baths, and the use of the same. The Hardiness and patience of the Russes in suffering the Extremities of Heat, or Coldness. Some strange customs among the Russes. Solemnities at the Burial of their Dead. Pag. 146.  
CHAP. VII. The Religion and Church-Government of the Russians. The Patriarch and his Office. Of their Sacraments, etc. Pag. 151.  
CHAP. VIII. The Jurisdiction of the Czaar, his Titles, Revenues and strict Justice. Pag. 155.  
CHAP. IX. Celebration and Solemnity of Palm-Sunday. The Departure of the Author out of Moscou to Astrachan. Heads and Officers. They set Sail. A heavy storm. Arrival at Nisen-Novogorod; Plenty of Provision at Nisen. A description of the famous River Wolga. Beginning of the Cerem-or Crim-Tartars Their Customs and Nature. Their Idolatry. Ceremonies about the Dead. Their Habit, Polygamy, etc. Pag. 175.  
CHAP. X. The Ship set fast upon a Ford. The great Utility of the Lindentree. Some of the Company drowned. Fertility and excellent Soil of the Banks of the Wolga. Arrival at Casan. Casan taken in by the Russes. The Casan-Tartars fight the Russes. The Russian Army flee. Moscou taken in. The Czar becomes Tributary to the Tartars. The good Conduct and valour of the Governor of Resan, who restores the Czar and the Empire to it's former Freedom. Pag. 165.  
CHAP. XI. Departure from Casan. The strange manner of taking Fish. City's demolished by Tamerlan. The Ship run fast aground. The Salt-pans', and manner of making Salt. Difficult Sailing in the Wolga. A New City built for defence against Robbers and Pirates. The great abundance of Liquirice about Astrachan, The Land of the Calmuc-Tartars. Pag. 173.  
CHAP. XII. Situation of Astrachan, he Inhabitants. How Astrachan became subject to the Czaar. Strange manner of Tents, or Cottages. Provision very cheap and Brandy dear. A Desert affoarding good Salt; and a strange kind of Fruit. The Form and Nature of the Nagayan Tartars. Their Habit, manner of Life and House-keeping. Their Trades and way of earning money, Horseflesh, Mares-milk and Blood in great esteem by them. Pag. 177.  
CHAP. XIII. Divisions and Limits of the Cosacks. Offspring of Radzin. The Reason of his Revolting. The first beginning of his Insolency. His treacherous Cruelty: The Governor of Astrachan makes preparation against him. He betakes himself to flight and reconciles himself with the Czar. The Incredible Riches and costly Attire of the Cosacks, The Person of Stenko Radsin described. The meeting and discourse of the Author with Stenko Radzin. He keeps a Persian Princess for his Concubine, which he throws with his own hand into the Wolga. His Punishment for Adultery. Pag. 183.  
CHAP. XIV. Stenko returns back and is followed by many Russes, but opposed by an Order from Psoforoski, which Stenko disobeys. He returns again with a greater Power. The Waywode of Astrachan sends out a Fleet against him, which shamefully yields. The Officers murdered. A great Perplexity at Astrachan. Power and Aw of Stenko. His cruelty and Pride. His Legates are devoured of Dogs in Persia. Kumuskinka surrendered by Treachery Pag. 189.  
CHAP. XV. The Animosities and Tumults in Astrachan. Stariza taken in by the Cosacks. A Fleet sent out against them. The Cosacks win Tzarnojar. The Russian Fleet yields to the Cosaks. The great Insolency and boldness of the Mobile of Astrachan. The valour of the Waywod or Governour. Advised to abscond or absent himself, which i● put in practice. Pag. 193.  
CHAP. XVI. They fall down the Wolga, and miss their Course. They touch a● Oetzjoege. The strange manner o● fishing of the Bieloege. The great plenty of Caviar. They meet with great difficulty to gain the Caspian Sea which at last they get. A description of the Island Satyry Boggere, Ta● Reeds grow all along the Coast. A dreadful Tempest. The Golden Bay heir meeting with a Tartarian Bark A description of Terki. The Beginning of the Circas-Tartars; Their Persons and Complexions described. Their Habit and way of Living. Of their Women, their Habit, Humours and Inclinations. Their Idolatry. Pag. 198.  
CHAP. XVII. The Author and his Company err in their Course. They meet with a Cosak-Bark. A great Tempest. The Beginning and Limits of the Dagestan-Tartars; Their Posture or Frame of Body, Habit and Way of Living. They are great Plagiaries. The Barrenness of the Dagestan Mountains. Another great Tempest. The Shallop run astrand and is spied by the Tartars, who plunder them. The strange way of electing the Dagestan Kings. They are assailed by another Company who ravish the Woman in presence of her Husband, and convert them all to Slaves. The Author tortured to detect his Companions, which he manfully endures. They are brought before the Osmyn, and chained. Pag. 206.  
CHAP. XVIII. The Captius take their leavs of each other. The great Orchard near Tzurbag. Their Arrival at Urwan. Situation of Mount Ararat. An accidental meeting with some Carmelite Friars. The Author insisted upon to undertake a Cure of a Rupture, which with much persuasion, he promises to do. His ascent up the Mountain Ararat to the Hermit's Cell, who was his Patient, which he performs in 5 days time. He undertakes and cures the Rupture. The Copy of an Attestation given him by the said Hermit in barbarous Latin. His return down. Pag. 212.  
CHAP. XIX. The Author put in Chains again: He is insisted upon to renounce the Christian Faith and become Mahometan; Divers means to that end put in practice by way of Trial. The great gain of warm Baths. The Author taken out of Chains. He is sold to a Persian. The Situation of the Caspian Sea. Great Whirlpools in the Bay of Gilan. A discourse about the Silk-trade. A further Description of the Caspian Sea, etc. Pag. 218.  
CHAP. XX. A Description of Derbent: its Walls. The Sultan's Court. Very old Ruins. Divers Watchtowers. Multiplicity of Sepulchrets without Derbent. Their Slave-market. The Author sold again. His Patron married with a Polish Woman and runs into Danger of his Life. The Intention of his Patroness in running away from her Husband and taking the Author with her. Two of Mr. Struys Companions come to Derbent. How they made their escape from the Tartars. The great Inclination of the Sultan of Derbent to the Hollanders. A Device put in practice to set one of the Author's Companions at Liberty. The Prince takes the Wife of Brak for his own. Brak makes his escape. Pag. 225.  
CHAP. XXI. The great difficulty of getting Wood without Derbent. The Author and his company assailed by Robbers two several times. The kind nature of his Patron. They travel to Scamachy. The Hill Barmach, The Pit of Naphta. Arrival at Scamachy. A Description of that City. A great Earthquake at Scamachy. Abundance of men misfortunatly killed. The Author meets with 2 Franciscan Friars: A rehearsal of some part of their Discourse: their Zeal to get him out of the Service of a Mahometan. Advice given him by his Patron. He comes first into the Service of the Polish Ambassador. Pag. 235.  
CHAP. XXII. The Hatred and Churlishness of the Ambassador against the Polish Gentry. A Polish Gentleman murdered in his bed. The pitiful case and condition of the Polanders, who were in the Retinue of the Legate. The Ambassador's Greediness. He endeavours to turn Mahometan, The Author's intention to make his escape. Captain Butler and others of his old acquaintance come to Scamachi, where they do what they can for the Captius. The Ambassadors Brother goes for Ispahan, where he desires to be admitted as a Mahometan, but is not received, William the Master's Mate of the Ship Eagle comes to Scamachi. A great Earthquake. Consecration of Water among the Armenian Christians. A great concourse of People, and remarkable Ceremonies.  
CHAP. XXIII. The Ambassador's Sister goes to Tafflis, and with her the Polish Chirurgeon. The Corpse of an Indian burned with a Christian she-slave. The Woman having taken in a Potion to provoke sleep, is also cast into the furnace. Two Men murdered at Scamachi, and a tumult thereupon. Strange Geremonies about the Dead. The Chans' son is presented with a Kolotan, or Robe of Favour, and one of the King's Wives. A man struck dead with staves. A fearful Earthquake. The Chan also receives a Robe of Favour, and a Wife. Pompous Solemnities at the delivery of the same. He receives the Princess. New Tidings from Russia. The Ambassador commanded by the King of Persia to return for Poland; but makes his excuse. The miserable Estate of the Polish Gentry. Theft committed in the Ambassadors Palace. A man tortured that was innocent. The Polish Chirurgeon fortunatly married at Tafflis. Another Corpse of an Indian burned with a living Woman. The great kindness of Hadsy Biram to the Author. His bad entertainment with the Ambassador. Pag. 249.  
CHAP. XXIV. The manner of Celebrating New years day among the Persians. Advice from Boynak: from Derbent. Fire-balls fall from the Sky. Five Hundred beautiful Damosels sought up for the Scach, or Sophy of Persia. A acquaint mean by which a Merchant saves his Daughter. The Author writes to Smarna. A Chieftain of the Cosaks brought into Scamachy; and is compelled to carry 3 of his Companions Heads in a Bag to Ispahan, where he is upon promise of detecting something of weight set at Liberty. A Persian murdered by a drunken Georgian. The murderer executed by the Brother of the murdered Party. A horrible Self-murder committed by several Persons at a Wedding. A great Feast celebrated in memory of Hosseyn the 3 d Son of Ali. A terrible Earthquake. The Chans' Son dies and is interred. Pag. 257.  
CHAP. XXV. News from Astrachan. A Woman and Adulteress taken in the Fact. A Young Gentleman caned to death by Order of the Prince and Complaint of his Father. Another put to the same death. One of the Author's Companions goes for Ispahan, Hailstones as big as Eggs. The Author and a Venetian entertained in an Armenian Monastery. A Woman taken in Adultery, for which she is surrendered up to the Will and Power of her Husband, who fleas her alive, nails up her Skin upon the Wall, and throws her Carcase out into the street. The great Jealousy of the Persians. The male Children about the Court gelded. The great Slave-market at Scamachy. The unnatural custom of the Georgians, The Ambassador receives a Charge to depart. Pag. 267.  
CHAP. XXVI. A dreadful Tempest. Great Balls of Fire fall upon the Earth. A most fearful Deluge, whereby Houses, Men and abundance of cattle are carried away. The Chan receivs another Robe of Favour. The Offerings of the Banjans, for the Fowl and Fish. The Religious Exercise of the Persian Women. The Author's Discourse with the Chan. The Author meets with one of the Tartars who had made him Slave. He gets out of the service of the Polish Ambassador. The great Bounty and kindness of his Patron Hadzi Biram, and of Altine his Patroness. One of his Company, made free. Pag. 273.  
CHAP. XXVII. Their departure out of Scamachi. The Country about Kasily described and the manner of living of the Inhabitants. A Description of the River Araxex. The Heath of Mokan, whither all the Banditti and Mutinous Persons have recourse. Abundance of Tortoises near Balharu. The Poverty, yet contented Life of the People and Inhabitants there about. The Author set upon by Robbers. The Carravan Assailed and Plundered. A famous stone Bridge. The sepulchre of Zeyde Tzeybrail. Arrival at Ardebil. The Situation of that Town. The bitter Cold. Great and raging Whirlwinds. Extraordinary good Wheat. The great Toll and Duty paid for Sheep. Seven and Fifty Towns within the Jurisdiction of Ardebil. A Description of the City, of its Streets, and of the Street of Strumpets, who are Poëtesses and ordained to compose Hymns of Praise to the name of the Great Aly, Free Places within the City. The Markets and Shops. Sumptuous Mezids and Chapels. Pag. 281.  
CHAP. XXVIII. Hadzi Byram goes to perform his Religious Duties at the Sepulchre of Zeyde Tzebrail. The Author begs of his Lord that he may be Spectator of the Ceremonies, which at last after many entreaties is granted. A Description of that noble Mausoleum. Famous Baths in Ardebil. The sulphurous Baths whither the Author accompanies his Patron. The manner of using those Baths. The stupendious and sumptuous Sepulchre of Scach Sephy described. The great Zeal and Devotion of Hadzi Byram. The Oratory, or House of Prayer, where (as they say) Schach Sephy prayed and fasted for 40 Days togeher without Intermission, using only a Cup of Water every day. Doors covered with Plates of Gold by Schach Abas. The Library, and Repository of the Utensils for the King's Table. The Garden or Yard where the Persian Kings lie interred. The names of the 12 Kings that lie there buried. The Revenues belonging to this Mesar, or Sepulchre. Some fast Revenues. Ardebil a famous Mart. Pag. 290.  
CHAP. XXIX. The Author taken for a Persian, which gave him occasion to see all that was worthy of remark. The Caravan leavs Ardebil, and goes over the famous Mountain Taurus. The Head of the River Kisiloseyn. Bad and uneasy Travelling by reason of steep Rocks. Peril of Robbers. Arrival at Sultanie. Keydar Peyamber, a wonderful high Mountain it's Situation, and by whom built. Emarath, the Noble Palace of King Choddabende. The Temple of Schach Ismaël. The present decaying State of Sultany. The Author shorn and habituated after the Persian Manner. Pleasant Dales and Valleys. Arrival at Caswin. The Situation of that Place. The Court of Schach Tames. The Place of Convention, or Exchange of Whores. The Common Place of Sepulture and Metzid of of Scach Bessade, the Son of Hosseyn, by which the Persians swear. The Offering of a Camel. Pag. 298.  
CHAP. XXX. Departure from Caswin. Arrival at Saba, and an account of the Condition of that Town. The Earth red and barren by the Curse of Mahomet. They arrive at Kom, with a Description of that Place. Melons of a very fragrant and lovely smell. A strange kind of Cucumbers. Khom the Staple for Weapons. The People addicted to Thievery. The Author's combat with a Greek Renegado Departure out of Khom. Arrival at Kaschan. It's Situation. The People, and their way of Living and Negotiation. Noble Carawanseras; or Houses of Entertainment. Many Gold-and Silk-Cloth Weevers. A sort of great and venomous Scorpion and a kind of fell Spiders, which are a powerful venom, with the strange manner of Cure for the same. Their Arrival at Natens. A Falcon fights and conquers an Eagle. Pag. 307.  
CHAP. XXXI. Arrival at Ispahan. Their Reception with the Dutch Resident. A Relation of the Stability of Anthony Munster, who was urged to embrace Mahometanism: his Death and Burial. The Manner and Situation of the Dutch Lodge. The Situation of Ispahan, it's Greatness: Rivers running through the same. The Aque-duct, a mighty work of Schach Abas. The Streets of Ispahan. Maydan and Basar. Fair Arches and Galleries. The Sumptuous Mestzid of Schach Abas. Dowlet- or Schach-Chane, the Royal Palace. The Divan-Chane, or Court of Justice. The Hieram Chane, or Palace of the King's Concubines. Allycarpi a Sanctuary, or place of Refuge. Carawanseras, Taverns. Cahwae Chane, Coffeehouses. Persian Saints and Philosophers. Remal and Falkil, two sorts of soothsayers. Their strange and ridiculous way of presaging. The Kaysery or Gallery of Shops. Pag. 313.  
CHAP. XXXII. Taberik Kale the Treasury of the Kingdom. The Suburbs of Ispahan. Tziulfa, a place where the Armenian Christians have their Residence. Tabrisabath. Hassenabath. Kebrabath, so called from Kebber, Persians that are still Pagans. Tzarbag. The Nature of the Persians. Property of the Land. Celebration of the Epiphany by the Armenian Christians. Pag. 321.  
CHAP. XXXIII. The great Civility of Hadsi Biram. The Author's Departure out of Ispahan. Their incommodous Travelling through the Snow. Wells and Pits of Water abounding with Fish. They are much incommodated in their Travailing. The Caravan assailed by Robbers. Their Superstitious horror of Swine's Flesh. Sepulchre of Schach Solyman's Mother. The Sepulchre of Noah, his Wife, Children, and children's Children. Tzilminar. The Pompous Relics and Ruins of the famous Persepolis, and the noble Fort thereof. The Statue of Rustan, a Persian Champion. Pag. 327.  
CHAP. XXXIV. Arrival at Scyras. They meet with some Carmelites. The base dealings of those of the Caravan. The Author meets with the Thief that had pillaged him. Mr. Struys well entertained by a French Chirurgeon. A Description of Scyras. Divers Mestzids, or Sepulchers. The Palace of the Chan. Excellent Wine about Scyras. Noble Orchards. Departure from Scyras. The Special Bounty of the Carmelites. and the French Chirurgeon. Dates plentiful and cheap. How the Date-trees are propagated. Arrival at Scharim. They meet a Caravan. Assailed by night of 30 Robbers, who kill 5 Men of the Company, and at last by a unanimous continuance of the Caravan force them to yield. The Robbers beg Quarter which is refused. They suffer themselves to be bound; are diversely tortured and dispatched Great plenty of Partridges. Pag. 336.  
CHAP. XXXV. The incommodous Travelling over Mountains. They come into an Inn (or Carawansera) where they are well entertained. Arrival at Lar. A Description of that Town. The Unwholsomness of the Air and wate● there. The Inhabitants given to Hospitality and Lovers of all kinds of Discipline and Science. Mummay Kobas, a precious Balsam. Remarkable Monuments of Robbers executed Departure from Lar. They meet with another Troop of Robbers▪ whereof 7 are killed. They are overtaken by Monsr. Kasenbroot, Their Arrival a● Gamron. Pag. 344  
CHAP. XXXVI. A Description of Gamron, or Bendar, and the Etamology. The grea● Traffic with all Nations. Unwholsomness of the Air, and Heat at Gamron. Palepunshen, an unwholesome Drink how made. The Earth dry and barren. Fertility of Kismisch. Of the Inhabitants of Gamron. A wondered Tree growing without the City. A● Indian (reputed) Saint. The best season for strangers to come and Traffic a● Gamron. Merchandise brought thither by the English. The English receiv To with the Schach. The Hollanders trad● without paying Toll. The Author falls very sick and in despair of Recovery. The kindness and bounty of L. van Akersloot to him. He recovers. Set sail from Gamron. Arrival at Maschate and a Description of that Town. The violent Heat about Maschate which renders the Air very unwholesome. Their Departure from Maskate. Arrival at Batavia. The Author hires himself for Sailmaker. Comes with 7 Ships before Bantham. Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope. Pag. 349.  
CHAP. XXXVII. Their Departure from the Cape of Good Hope. The Ship Europa taken by the English. The English take the Island of St. Helena, and 2 Dutch Ships more. The Author warns the rest of the Ships. Three Dutch Ships scape a scouring. Arrival at Ascension. Abundance of Tortoises on that Island. A Description of the said Island. It's unfruitfulness and want of fresh water. A Debate held among the English to leave the Dutch upon the Island. Departure from Ascension. Arrival at Kingsale in Ireland. Their Departure from thence, Arrival at Bristol and finally at Home. Pag. 354.     

DIRECTIONS For the BOOK HINDER, How to place the PLATES.  

The City Judia. Pag. 27  
The Massacring of the Mandorins and great Personages in Syam. Pag. 45  
Tenedos. Pag. 91  
Pathmos. Pag. 93  
Delos, or Delphos. Pag. 110  
Astrachan. Pag. 177  
Radzin throwing the Persian Lady into the Wolga, Pag. 187  
Sturgeon-taking. Pag. 199  
The Tartars on Horseback. Pag. 204  
Mount Ararat. Pag. 214  
The Card of the Caspian Sea. Pag. 222  
The City Scamachy in Persia. Pag. 239  
The manner of bringing the King's Concubines in Persia to Court. Pag. 260  
A Woman flayed alive. Pag. 270  
Ispahan. Pag. 316  
Persepolis. Pag. 332  
Scyras, or Sieras. Pag. 338  
Gammeron. Pag. 35●  
Moschate. Pag. 352  
The Massacre in Astrachan. Pag. 360    

THE Perilous and most Unhappy TRAVELS of JOHN STRUYS, Through Italy, Turkey, Persia, Tartary, East-India, Moscovia, etc.  

CHAP. I. The first Occasion of the Authors going to Travel. A Sea-Storm. Arrival at Gibraltar, at Genua, with its Description, at Velez Malaga. Rescontre with 9 Corsairs of Algiers. Arrival at Boam Vista. A Description of the Salt Islands, Ilha Mayo, Ilha del Fuogo, St. Jago and Ilha del Brava. Proper Climate of those Isles. Arrival at Sierra Liones; The great Incivility of the King, alured to come aboard, fettered, and afterward thrown over board, A Description of Sierra Liones.  
WEll worthy of remark is that Observation of a modern Sage, Despair drives a man either to the Camp, or a Convent: With no less reason may we add, That the insubid Resolutions and Praecipitance of youth, lead either to illicit Arts, or Travel: which last was a Misfortune fatal to myself. My Father's sole Care was to see me trained up, in some laudable Vocation, or other; whereby I might for the future be in a capacity to acquire my necessary sustenance, without being burdensome to my Relations, or the use of any dishonourable Mean, or Practise: And to that end put me out to a Sail-maker. 
DEC. 1647.  He now perceiving some hopeful Prospect of Good in my Undertake, was ever studious to give me all the Encouragement he could on his part; and to show the Affection incumbent on a Parent, restrained me, as far as in him lay, from going abroad, or associating myself with such Company, as might be obnoxious, or destructive to those good Maxims he had given me: But various are the Tempers and Dispositions of Youth; and sometimes their frame of spirit so occult, that the piercing Judgements of riper Years cannot sound it, although it were with the Eyes of Eagles.  

Set sail from Texel.  My Father, whose Rigour was somewhat more than tolerable, was never remiss in reprehending me for any noted Vice; so that for some bad deportment he once took occasion to Chastise me, and that with such severity, that I resolved to take my leave both of him, and my native Land. At that time there were two Ships fitted out, and bound for Genua: the one was called, The St. John Baptist, Henry Christansz. of Amsterdam Master, the other, The St. Bernard, john Benning of Wesep Vice-Commander, and Herman Voogd of Schiedam Master; Over both these Ships was Mr. john Maas of Dunkirk, as Upper-Commander. The former was mounted with 28 Guns, the latter carried 26. I hired myself aboard the St. I. Baptist for Under-Sailmaker, being then about 17 years old, never troubling myself either whither we were bound, or how long we were to be out.  
On the 26 of December 1647. By God's good Conduct, we set Sail, from the Texel, but were hardly got without the Gaats, ere we found that our Ships were not duly poised, and thereupon were fain to Tack about, and put in at the Texel again, where we unloaded part of the Ships-burthen, and took in a considerable quantity of Pewter, some Boxes of Quicksilver, and other ponderous Materials, to Ballast us well at the Keel; which when we had done and all ready, we set out the second time, that was upon the 4 day of january, 
January, 1648.  1648, and with a brave Wind, we passed the Spaniards Got, driven with some Shoals of Ice (it being then Frosty weather) Seawards.  
On the 10 of january we were forced by a contrary wind to put in at the Downs; where after two days abode, we weighed anchor, having both Wind and Wether favourable. But soon after by a heavy Storm and rough Sea, 
FEBR. 1648. Storm at Sea.  we were forced again to put into some other Harbour; which we did at the Isle of Wight, & there we stayed till the 25th when the Wether began to grow more moderate, and the high Winds abated.  
Under hopes that this good Wether would continue we fet sail, but were no sooner out of the Bay, before the Wether changed, and we now the third time forced to look out for a Harbour.  
On the 6 of February we came to Anchor at Portland, where we road three days, and then set sail directly for the Bay of Gibraltar, where we arrived on the 10th of that month. The next day with a brisk gale we entered the Straits, and with a constant and favourable wind, made Genua in 15 days, where arriving we dropped Anchor behind the Mould.  
On the 32th we got Prattica, 
Arrival de Genua.  and Licence to unload both the Ships; which done the Men were paid off, and dismissed. The Ships, as we said before, were sold to the Duke of Genua, which he furnished with Provision of Victuals, Powder, Shot and other Ammunition, for 2 years. Aboard each Ship were a Hundred Dutch taken into service, the rest for the most part Italians, amongst which were a few of the Banditti. Here I hired myself for Upper-Sailmaker, and had 18 Livers per Month; although neither I, nor any else that went before the Mast, knew whither, or upon what Design.  
Having now regained my liberty, I longed to satisfy my curiosity in taking a view of the Town, with what else was worthy of remark. Genua is seated on the Sea side, 
Description of Genua.  having a very commodious and complete Haven, on the South facing the Co●st of Africa. The City is built partly on montanous and hilly ground, and partly on a Level, seated between two velleys; and is computed to be about 6 Italian Miles in circumference, being very well and close built, munited with strong Walls, sufficient enough to resist a small Attacque; but would not secure the Town in a long and durable Siege; or violent Storms, without the Militia. Their Militia consists of some Dutch and Corsican Companies, together with a few small Troops of Horse, which are constantly in motion, either on the Seaside, or thro' the City, to prevent, if need require, any silent Attacque, and suppress Mutinies; as also to secure the Coasts from Turkish and other Pirates, which sometimes come ashore in their Shalops, to get Slaves and Spoil. They have always four Galleys ready upon all Occasions, for Defence of the Havens; besides a considerable number more, which they have in their Arsenal, in good equippage; these are often employed as Auxiliaries for the Venetians, against the Turks. On the Seaside stands a Watch-Tower, on which by night they set a Beacon; and just at the Entrance of the Haven, stands a huge piece of Ordnance, mounted upon a Carriage, continually guarded with a Sentinel. The Duke's Person is guarded with a Body of 500 Soldiers, who with their Colonel have a place allotted them in the Palace. The City is generally well built with stately Houses and magnificent Structures, more especially on that side which is seated near the Sea: having besides the more eminent Hostels and Public Buildings, 30 fair Parish Churches, of which that dedicated to St. Laurence claims the priority, as Cathedral. In the Church dedicated to the H. Eucharist, 
Genua.  they showed us a Key made of an Emerald, being of the unusual bigness that ●t's worth may not be computed. Coming to the Church of St. Bartholomew, we saw a handkerchief, with which they told us our Saviour wiped the sweat from his face, and (as they say) has done abundance of Miracles. The City is very populous, their Merchants rich and numerous; and their Manufacture also very considerable, especially in Velvets, there being according to the relation given us; above 8000 Looms in the Town so that considering the Magnificency of Building, the Riches of her Merchants, Commodiousness of Situation, and Splendour of her Court and Palace, may be reckoned as a Town of the first Magnitude.  

Velez Malaga.  On the 12 of April we set sail, directing our course for Velez Malaga, where on the 15 we arrived. On the 18 we hoist sail, and made for Malaga, and on the 24 came to cast anchor in the Bay; where almost all the Banditti were set ashore. Here we took in a hundred Pipes of Wine, with candied Fruits and other Refreshments for the sick.  
On the 29 of May we weighed Anchor, and with a brisk gale of Wind reached the Straits mouth on the 2 of june. When we were past Gibraltar, we steered our Course towards the Salt Islands, which was designed for another place of Refreshment, from whence we gathered that, our Voyage must needs be longer than at first we thought; for till then none aboard the ship (unless the Officers) knew whither we were bound, 
JUNE, 164●.  or upon what account we were sent out.  
On the fourth of june, we met with 9 Turkish Men of War, about the 3d. Watch in the night, who Hailed us, ask, from whence our ship, we answered, From Genua, and asked them, From whence they were: they made answer, From Algiers. Our Commander hearing that unwelcome Echo, was not a little alarmed, and could have wished himself at a further distance; however he resolves to exchange a ball or two with them by break of day; and in order thereto gets all in a readiness; commands every man to his Post, and gave us all the courage he could by his own Example. The Corsairs who although better man'd and mounted than we, 
Arrival at Boam Vista.  had no great stomach to go so early to breakfast, for observing such marks of Courage in our Officers, and that they were absolutely resolved to fight'um, made all the sail they could, and left us.  
On the 14 we passed the Flemish Islands, and on the 6 of July, we arrived at Boam Vista, where we came to Anchor in the Bay. On this Island were several of the Banditti, who brought us such Provision as they had aboard: we took in also ten boats of salt. About this Island is such plenty of Fish that at one draught we got 1500 Corcoads and Salmon-Fry.  
Boam Vista is one of those Islands, which are called Cabo Verdo Islands, 
Description of the Sale Islands.  having obtained that appellation, from its delectable prospect from the Seaward, and lies 7 leagues to the northward of Ilha del Sal: and is reckoned to be about 20 leagues in circumference, stretched out in length Southeast and Northwest. That part which lies near the sea is all sandy and hilly ground, but within altogether montanous and high land. On the north end is a long Bank near half a league in length, which repelleth the billows of the sea with great violence. There are yet besides this several other Fords, which are often the occasion of Shipwreck. On the South is also another, where the Rocks sometimes appear above water, 
The Island Majo.  and points out towards the East, and E. and by North. The best and safest place to come to Anchor in, is at the South-west Point, where is a very commodious Road for Ships of the greatest burden, having at least 16 or 17 fathom Water, and a fine sandy ground.  
In this Road we lay at anchor 6 days, and then set sail for Majo, St. jago, 
JULY 1648.  Fuogo and Brava; which are the nearest Islands to Boam Vista.  

The Island Majo.  The Island Majo lies about nine leagues S. S. W. or rather mo● Westerly, from Boam Vista, and is the smallest of all the rest, being about 7 leagues round. Within land are several steep hills, and on the North a Plain, about a league in breadth from whence reaches out a long Bank towards the North-east, and another towards the West, which cause impetuous Breaches of the Sea, and consequently great danger for Ships that sail that way. The Island is almost round in circumference, having its breadth and length almost equal, and is full of small Capes or Promontories, which make so many Inlets. The common Road belonging to this Island, is on the South-west Coast, where you have 15 and 16 fathom Water, and a sandy ground; having the Western point of the Island at N. and by W. and another Point at E. S. E. and the South end of St. jago S. W. On the North side of the Island, behind a little black Cape, lies a small Bay, or Road for Anchorage, at 5 or 6 fathom water, and upon the lowest point, on the East, is a Village of 10 or 12 houses. This Island is very rocky, high and dry, having little grass upon it but what grows in the clefts of the Rocks. It is also very barren of Fruit, neither Lemons nor Oranges will like there; nor no other fruit whatsoever, unless sigs, and those, by reason of the drought of the Season and Ground, seldom ever come to maturity, or return to profit. There are in this Island some Cotton-trees, and good plenty of Goats, so that there are many thousands of those Hides transported yearly from hence. There are also some wild Horses, Kine and Asses; good plenty of Fowl, as Partridge, Heath-hens, Bustards, Wild-geese, and other Fowl, not known with us in Europe.  
There are also many Saltpans on this Island, where the Salt by the Ground Water, and the Ingress of the Sea, with the help of the Sun, is well concreted, yet is somewhat too yellow in colour. The Inhabitants are a mixed folk, of Negroes, and others, who follow Goat hunting, using Wolves in stead of Dogs. Some also follow the Fishing trade, and find great plenty of 
* A kind of Sea-bream.  Cyprins, Dorades, and other Fish.  

St. Jago.  St. jago is the greatest and chief of the Cabo Verdo Islands, being about 12 leagues in length, lying Southeast and Northwest: The Southeast Cape thereof hath the Road of the Island Majo on the West, and W. and by N. about 5 leagues distant. The high Land of St. jago lies from the Road of Majo directly West, but the middle thereof South-west from Boam Vista, or rather more Westerly; and from the Salt Island S. W. and by S. about 25 Leagues. From the South-west Angle, the coast stretches itself forth 2 leagues South-west, where there is a small Hamlet, called Pray, situated in a commodious place, between two Hills, and environed with 2 Rivers; which running into the Sea, do make two handsome Bays, one whereof is called Porto de Pray, and has room enough to contain an hundred Ships, which may safely ride at Anchor, without damnifying each other, having 14 fathom water, and shot-free from Land, as also the benefit of a small Island, which breaks off the wind. Sailing past Porto de Pray, before you come at the Town, is a Cape, or small Promontory, which the Portugeezes call Capo de Tubarao: On the West whereof is another Bay, called Porto de Ribeirra Corea, which also is very fitly seated between two Hills, and a River that runs through the middle, rising from a fountain, about 2 leagues from thence, and disgorging itself into the Sea, by a mouth about a Bow-shot in breadth. In the North is also another Haven called St. Mary. On the Island St. jago are yet two Towns of note, whereof the one is called St. Thomas, very well seated; the other St. jago, or St. james, which is built upon a rising Ground: This is the Metropolis of all the Towns of these Islands, where is also the Residence and Palace of their Bishop. Towards the West, on an Angle of the Island is a Fortress, two leagues from Porto de Pray, where Ships come to anchor; and Northwest from this Angle another Haven; known by the name of Porto de Canisos.  
This Island is very fertile, and abounds with fruit of several kinds, as on each side the Rio de Corea grow great plenty of Cocos, Oranges, Citrons, & other Fruit-trees, as also some Cedars. Besides this, it affords good store of Rice, Maïs', and other grain, as also cattle both for work and slaughter.  
Ilha del Fuogo, or, The Isle of Fire, probably has that name from one of its Mountains, which continually sends forthflames, 
Ilha del Fuogo.  by some intestine Fire. It lies in 14 degr. 20 min. Northerly Latitude, and 12 leagues from the South-west point of St. jago. Northwest, on the Westside, 
JULY, 1670.  is a Bay, and a small castle seated at the foot of a hill: but the violent course of the stream, renders the haven unapt to receive any Shipping. Those that would enter the Bay must steer their course to the North of this Island, and so about.  
About 4 leagues South-west of Ilha del Fuogo, lies Ilha del Brava, that is, Wild, or Desert Island, with two or three small Islands, on the North thereof. On the Westside is a Creek, very convenient for such as have occasion to take in water: but the best haven is on the Southeast side where it is 15 fathom deep, and a Ship of the greatest burden may come to anchor close to the Key. Above this Harbour is a Hermitage, and a Village very well peopled. This Island is also fruitful enough, having good store of figs, Mulberrys, Water-Melons, and Indian wheat, but far inferior to Mayo and St jago for cattle.  
The Air of these Islands is generally unwholesome, so that the inhabitants are very subject to Fevers, Aches and Fluxes. These Islands lying between the Aequator and the Tropic of Cancer, afford the People two Summers every year, the Sun passing twice directly over their heads. When the sun enters into Cancer, which is in the end of june, the season is very intemperate, with Storms, Winds, Thunder and Lightning, continuing so till the middle of October; the● the Portugueezes call the Rain months. They have certain tokens, whereby they know when this Season approaches, as, high Southerly Winds which blow along the Coast, and the Salt, which begin to dissolve, with the Billows rolling out of the Sea.  
On the 14 we left the Salt Islands, and set sail, for Sierra Liones and made land, on the 2d of August, hearing at a great distance the Wind roaring from the Mountains, which by the reason of their Concavity, do make a great buzzing when it blows hard, that perhaps has given them the name of Sierra Liones, or Lioness Mountai● A little before the evening we came with our Boat close to the shore where we heard a most terrible Noise, occasioned by an impetuous and continual beating of the billows through the cleft of a Rock which was so loud that we could hardly hear one another spea● Sierra Liones takes its beginning from Cabo de Virgin, and stretches● self so far out as Cabo Tagrin, or lead, which is also by some call● Cabo de Sierra Liones, 
JULY 1648.  lying in 8 Degr. and 13 Min. Northerly Latitude; and by reason of its height, is easily distinguished from that Continent, which lies to the Northward of this Promontory; the more because it reaches further Seaward. The South, and South and by E. part of this Land lies toward the Sea, and is high and hilly, but the land of the Cape towards the North, for the most part levelly and marshy. There are 13 Rivulets which coming from the Land, run through these Mountains, and so empty themselves in the Ocean, and have on their banks plenty of Fruit-trees, as Oranges, Pomecitrons, and the like.  
On the 3 of August we arrived in the Bay of Sierra Liones. Immediately upon our arriving there, the Commander sent the Shallop ashore, and such persons as he did think fit, with Presents for the King, which were 5 Barrs of Iron, a Barrel of Brandy, and another of Spanish Wine.  
Those men that were nominated to deliver the Presents, were courteously received by the King and his Court. We could not perceive any Mark of Superiority, or Grandour in the Prince, which might distinguish him from his Subjects, no more than in Mr. Mayor of Stratford, from his Worshipful Brethren, the Aldermen. Yet found him much to vary from some other Sovereign Potentates who every themselves at the Cost and Penury of their Vassals. The King and his Folk were equally insatiable and covetous; for so soon as the King had received the Present, he desired as much more, which the Commander was content to send him, that he might have the freedom to take in Water, and Wood for Fuel, as also to provide ourselves with Oranges, Lemons, and other Refreshments. The Inhabitants, which are called Caffers, showed us no small Friendship; for, so long as our Penny lasted, they never failed of a Pater noster, bringing us every day good store of Fruit. When the King had received the double Present, he insisted upon twice as much more, before he would admit of our coming ashore. This great incivility so enraged the Commander, that he resolved to be revenged upon him; and pursuant thereto sent the Longboat ashore to entreat him to come aboard, where he should receive what his King ship desired. The credulous Barbarian, made no long pause in the matter; 
JUNE, 1648.  but presently, with a certain number of his Gentry, stepped into the Boat, and so were brought aboard. But his Retinue being too numerous, the Commander having regard to our safety, would not permit above 5 or 6 to come aboard. The King was no sooner got aboard, but he ran in all haste to the Great Cabin, in hopes of some ample Gift; but much mistaken, 
The King of Sierra Liones fettered, and threatened to be hanged.  for the Commander gave order that he should be fettered, which was accordingly done, and 4 men appointed to attend him. The King was hereat mainly altered, but afterward much more, when he saw the Commander intended to hang him at the Yards arm, which had certainly been had not the Master of the Ship undertaken the Office of a Mediator upon him, and made intercession for his Life. The Commander's wrath thus pacified, he gave order to throw him over board, which was immediately obeyed and executed, by 4 of the Ships Company, who threw him out at the Forecastle Port; But he was so well disciplined in swimming, that he presently got ashore. His Retinue seeing that, with all the hast they could, betook themselves immediately to their Canoes, 
The houses of the Caffers pillaged; and their Orchards Spoiled.  and made as if they would do some prodigious Feat, or other; or at lest obstruct our coming ashore, to take in what was necessary. The Commander, whose temper was too courageous, to be daunted for a swarm of Flies, sent two Boats ashore to fetch Water and Wood, both well Man'd and Armed, and in spite of all their Force, hewed as much Wood, and brought as much Water, as they thought might serve our turn, The Commander notwithstanding all this, was not yet content, but remanded the men and Shallops to pillage their Houses and Orchards, and set the King's Neger-house on fire; all which they did in a moment. The King seeing this, thought it high time to put himself in a posture of Defence; and in order to that, musters up all the Forces he could on a sudden, the whole Country being Alarmed, and appeared with a number of a Thousand Canoes, or more, half of each being loaden with Faggots, whether to set our Ships on fire, or to use them for Shields, we could not determine: however having obtained our ends, we held it best to weigh Anchor, and proceed on our Voyage, rather than to incur a needless & unprofitable Engagement, with a Company of such contemptible Schoundrels. In which Resolution we set sail, directing our Course for Madagascar.  
Before we were got out of sight of Sierra Liones, we met with a small Flyboat which Traded along that Coast, whereof one john Backer of Durgerdam was Master. The Master came and proffered his Ship and service to our Commander and Vice-Admiral, to conduct us over the Fords and shallow Places of the Red sea, and to make use of his Vessel as an advice Yacht. But our Shipmaster dissuaded them to accept of his Tender, whereupon he declared that he was unwilling, and so declined his Favour. This Master had the like Rescontre with that King's Majesty, and for his Churlishness gave him a toss (as he told us) out of the Cabin-port so that it seemed a Paradox to us, that he would be so void of Prudence as to hazard himself a second time, being once before in jeopardy of his Life.  
Sierra Liones both in regard of its ' Copiousness of Fruit, 
Description of Sierra Liones.  and Plenty of Good Water is a very proper place to put in at, for Refreshment. It abounds with 
* A kind of plant, called also Milium, and Hyrsi bearing a multitude of small grains, from whence it hath that name.  Millets, Oranges, Lemons, Banans, Cocos, Wild Grapes, and abundance of many other sorts of Fruits; as also Sugar canes and a kind of Long pepper. It affords, besides Fruit-trees, good Timber, and Ingredients very useful in Dying; but by reason of our short abode, and want of opportunity to make inspection into the Country, we could not inform ourselves what Product the Land afforded, as peculiar to itself; nor to make any advantage of our Landing there, except our Refreshment. There is good store of Fish, and Oysters, which lie very thick in the clefts of the Rocks, and are extraordinary large and good. 'Tis true if any be necessitated to put in there for fresh Water, they need not be at a loss, for there are all along the Coast many choice Rivers, which are pure Rain-water, that comes from the Mountains, but in the Month of May, (the beginning of the Rain season) it is very unwholesome and unapt for use, as our Master's Mate told me who was well acquainted with those Parts, and is frequently the Occasion of Fevers, Fluxes, and other perilous distempers; and not only so, but is so venomous, that where it falls upon the skin of one, who is not used to that Climate, will cause Tumours and Ulcers, and breeds a kind of worm or moth in clothes which may serve for a Caveat to such as shall be forced to make use of it, 
SEPT. 164●.  about that time of the year, although it be approved good, when it is some days old, as if the venomous property were vanished with keeping. The Inhabitants are not altogether black, but tawny; and their bodies cauterised in many places with hot Irons. The tips of their Ears, and their noses, are bored through, and hung with Jewels, which they hold for passing rare Ornaments. Both Men and Women go naked, and use no manner of Vesture save only a furcingle, or towel; made of the barks of Trees, which (it seems) for modesty sake, they wear about their Middle. Those that inhabit those parts which lie further within Land, are Cannibals (or Men-eaters) but such as dwell near the Sea, more civilised, and flexible to commerce with Europeans, and other Strangers. The King with whom we were concerned, was an old, ill visaged and homely Man, in a Garb tolerably handsome, after the Moorish fashion; having also a kind of a hat of a grayish colour; but neither he, nor any of his Retinue, had either shoes or stockings, but such as they came into the World with.   

CHAP. II. Arrival at Madagascar. The remarkable Chance of the Commander, meeting with the King. The Death of the Vice Commander Benning; and the disorders thence arising. Both the Ships put in a Fight Posture, and ready to give each other Battle. Voogt yields, and is fettered. The description of Madagascar; it's Fertility, Store of cattle; Goodness of their Sheep; Many kinds of Monkeys. Nature of the Inhabitants, Form, Habit, House-keeping, Marriages and Funerals. Their impious cruelty over their Children. Their Religion, Policy and Wars.  

Arrival at Madagascar (or sas it is by some called) S. Laurence  ON the 13 of October we arrived at Madagascar, and came to Anchor in the Bay of Anton Gill. So soon as we had cast Anchor we sent forth our Boat, and put out a white Flag in token of Friendship; which they observing, did the like. But we were greatly dismayed, when we saw a great number of men running down the Hills toward us, with Bows, Arrows and Darts: so that we not daring to trust ourselves to them, concluded our safest way was to return, and row back again to our Ships; but they perceiving that, one of them cried out, Be not afraid, but come boldly to land; we will do you no harm, we give you liberty to come ashore. 
OCTO● 1648.  Capt. Maas told us that he had been there in that Island before, and that a Slave of his, whom he had taught to read and write, had run away from him there, having taken his opportunity when the Ship was ready to set Sail; and that he had heard how the Slave was come to great Advancement, and by the Natives elected King.  
So soon as we were got to land, we were introducted by the King himself, and his Attendants into his Palace, which was in the midst of a Sconce, reasonably strong, and environed with Palizadoes. The House was hung with neat Mat-work, and the Floors covered with the same. The King presently began to inquire, What for People that we were? and, to what place our Ship belonged? for he could see by her Colours that we did not come out of Holland. The Commander made answer that we were Hollanders; but were then in the service of the Duke of Genua, to whom the Ships belonged. After they had exchanged a few Words together, the Commander assumed the liberty to ask him, Where he had learned to speak Dutch? I have been, quoth he, formerly in East India, and was at that time a Slave to one john Maas, a Mariner, and intending for Holland, we were surprised with a dismal Hurricane, which disabled us of our Masts, and made us in such a Condition, that we were forced to put in here to Calk, and fit us out again; but I having no great appetite ● proceed on our Voyage, deserted my Master, when I saw the Ship was ready to sail. Well (quoth the Captain) was not your name Diembro. Yes, replies the King, do you know me? Why, said the Captain, do you not know john Maas? The King was hereupon in a great stupor, but viewing him thoroughly began to remember his Countenance, and with that embraced and kissed him. While they stood mute a while and staring one another earnestly on the face, both stupifyed at this strange meeting, the King began thankfully to acknowledge, how good a Master our Commander had been to him, and presented him all necessary Provision gratis: but the Commander courteously declined it, saying, He esteemed it a sufficient Favour to exchange Wares for Wares. The King (according to the custom of that Country) presented our men the use of his Wives and Concubines; who coming forth made choice of such as they would have, and went aside with them. This kind Tender was as freel● accepted as offered, by the greatest part of our Ships-folk, wh● were not very shy to enter into Conjunctions with that tawny Brood but what monstrous Complexions they afterward brought into th● world, 
The Death of Mr. John Benning, Captain of the St. Bernard.  I only guests, since our abode there could not be long. I may not ommit the fatal Difference, and Misunderstanding of our Offi●cers among themselves, occasioned upon the Decease of Capt. Joh● Benning, who commanded the S. Bernard. The Chief Commande● Maas, together with the rest of the Officers thought fit to p● Henry Christians, Master of the St john Baptist in his place, and Ho●man Voogt in the placc of H. Christians; 
Tumults thereupon.  but Voogt did not approve● this Transposition, and let the Chief Commander know that ● would not abandon his Board and Right, unless he would fet● him away by force; thereupon he brought up all the Guns out ● the Hold, and put himself in a Posture of defence. The next mo●ning by break of Day, 
Both the Ships rea-ady to sight.  our Commander, with some of the O●cers descrying that the Red Flag was put out, aboard the St. B●nard, were not a little alarmed: immediately gave order that we sho● also (with all possible expedition) put ourselves in a Fight posture, which was done in a moment. Our Commander understanding that Vooght had sent off a boat (with intent to fetch wate● sent out the Shallop, as full of men as could well stand, all w● armed, who rowed as hard as they could till they overtook the oth● boat, which they brought back. The men being come aboard, t● Commander gave order to put them in Fetters, till he could ha● better information about their intention: with that the Command made as if he would lay the St. Bernard aboard, closing up w● her Bow. Harman Voogt seeing himself in a great Strait, and for w● of men hardly in a capacity to maintain his Pretences, was mu● disheartened, and after he had advised the matter more fully w● himself, 
Voogt yields and goes aboard, is clapped into Fetters.  thought good to let out the Shallop, and go aboard ● Commander, the men incessantly crying out, Let our Captain and M● return without any molestation, or, by Heaven and Earth, we will either sink be sunk: we are resolved either to lose our own lives in his Vindication, or, yours an Expiation, without either giving or taking Quarter. Yet notwithstandi● all this, their Schipper was no sooner come aboard but the Command gave order to bring him upon the Quarter Deck where he was made ● hand and foot; and after him the first and second Mate, together with the rest of the Officers were brought up, and immediately clapped into shakles. The foremast men seeing themselves outwitted by the Commander's Polity, began to lose their Courage, and after a mature deliberation among themselves, concluded it the safest way to surrender themselves and Ship to the Commander. This done, a Council of War was held, and the Captive Officers (Voogt himself only excluded) were brought into the great Cabin, where the Council, for the time being, was assembled, and asked which they would rather choose, To burn with their Ship? or, To serve the Commander faithfully without murmuring? They conceiving that there was no hopes of avoiding some severe Penalty, or other, which the Council, perhaps, had designed in case of their continuing refractory, choosed the latter: and with one humbly begged pardon for their misdemeanours, promising for the future not to be factious in any Uproar, or the Occasion of Tumult. Upon these Supplications the Council sat again, and came to this Result, 
Result of the Council of War concerning the Officers, and Ships-folk.  That their former misbehaviour should be connived at; but, Voogt the Master to continue in Irons, till we came again to Genua, where he should be banished upon the Galleys, during the term of life, as a condign Punishment for his obstinate Rebellion. However to prevent any mutinous consultations which might otherwise find opportunity, and detard our Voyage, the Ships companies were mixed and counterchanged; some of our men sent aboard the St. Bernard, and others from the St. Bernard in lieu of them, brought over to us. In the mean while we recreated ourselves with the Divertisements of Hunting, Fishing and Fowling; as also ranging the woods, which we found stored with many sorts of Fruit.  
Madagascar is distant from the Coast of Cefale about 110 Leagues, and 44 from Mosambique. It lies in length Northeast and Southwest; reaching from about 12 degr. to 26, Southerly Latitude; being about 220 Dutch leagues in length and 70 in breadth, and consequently reputed the largest Island in the whole World. It is also divided into several Provinces and Dominions, which are mostly bounded and severed from each other, by Rivers.  
This Island is very fertile, and affords great plenty of Grain, as Wheat (or Mais) and Barley, as also Pulse, as Lentils Pease & Beans of several kinds. They have also abundance of Water Melons, Ananas, Bananas, and other unknown Plants and Roots. The Trees are loaden with Oranges, Lemons, Pomecitrons, and two kinds o● Pomegranates, to wit, a sweet and a sour, as also delicate Pears, Figs Almonds, etc. Besides these Fruits, they have several strange Roots that may be used for Diet, which they call Ouviharen, Schambri, Ca●bares, Ouvifoutty, Offehe, Mavondre, Damborn, and others, which cannot call to mind, at present. It affords also very rich Honey, variety of Gums, Medicinal Balsams, Oils, Roots and Herbs, nor ma● we ommit the commemoration of its ' rich Mines, and variety o● Metals, though the best it affords beyond other Places, is Steel. Th● Gold which is digged here, is much base than that of Peru, the Oun● not valuing above ten Crowns. Neither is this Island without Precious stones, as Topaz, Amethyst, Emerald, Sapphire, Jacynth, Jaspar, Agath, with Blood Stones and others. It abound with Beasts, as Kine, tame and wild, Goats which have young times a year; the Sheep are very fat, their tails weighing some ● pound a piece; Swine they have also, both tame and wild, who● flesh whether hung, or pickled, is far better than that which ● have in Europe. There is also a kind of wild Swine that th● Inhabitants call 
* Perhaps Porcupines, which are of late grown common in Europe.  Tendrak, which they hold for a great delicacy: The same beast sleeps six months in the year, in which time she casts her Prickles, as Hedgehogs do, which are also the in great abundance. The Dogs of this Island are for the most pa● little, shore-snouted and stump-eared. Apes and Monkeys run ● great troops, some times 50, 60 or 100 together, of which the● are several kinds. Those that are white are the most cruel, an● hardest to catch, or tame. Another sort there are which are grey, an● not so big as the white which are more tame and flexible; these the often take by wiles, and teach them several practical and artific● exercises. 
Why an Apt Commit a Rape.  There are besides these another kind of white Ape● that go almost right over end, and are so lecherous that even th● Women in that place, cannot be secure for them, which they ravi● if they find an opportunity, one holding her, till another has performed his Task; whom, when they have had their will, the sometimes rend in pieces. But there is a kind of Grey Apes, which are held in most esteem; having eyes like fire, and are very wi● and unapt to be tamed, and some so savage that they will rather starve than be fed out of hand. There are also many Squirrels Wesels and Civet Cats. They are likewise annoyed with many sorts of venomous Creatures and Vermin, as Scorpions, Spiders, Wasps and millipeds, which are here so horribly fell, that the party stung falls immediately into a swound.  
This Island is inhabited both by Whites and Negro, 
The Inhabitants, their Nature, Garb, and Posture.  the former having long and lank hair, the latter a little curled, and handsome bodied. There are also a sort of tawny People that are not so well civilised as the rest, letting their hair and beards grow, which the other for the most part shave.  
They are in general a treacherous and fraudulent people, prone to Thievery, and greedy of Revenge, which they esteem a laudable virtue, and deem him a man of merit, who knows how to quit himself handsomely in vindication of a Quarrel; but on the contrary he that puts up an affront or injury done him, is held in great contempt, and stigmatised for a Coward. They are by nature very sluggish, and inclined to Sloth, much given to Dancing and Singging. These that are willing to take upon them any hard Employment or laborious exercise, are such as follow Husbandry, Smiths, Carpenters, Fuller's, Spinners, Weevers, Fishers and Fowlers. Their Smiths have a good way to temper Iron and Steel, and are very active in making Knives, Javelins, Pile-heads and Plyers to pull up hair by the roots. They have also Silversmiths, but such as hardly deserve the naming.  
Their Houses are but little wooden Tabernacles, 
Their Houses  of one story high and a firm Ceiling; yet at the Inauguration of those Cottages they make sumptuous Banquets: So soon as the House is completed the Owner invites all his Relations and Allies, with other acquaintance to the said House, where they are entertained in splendid manner: Yet this Treat is not at all chargeable to him, but rather an advantageous mean; for there is not any of these Guests who dare make his appearance without some Present, which he is to bring with him (as if it were at a Westmoreland wedding) Some bring Gold, Silver, or Steel; some great Bowls with Corn, or perhaps Movables and Furniture for the House; others Oxen, Sheep or other Belly-timber. So that in brief, none ever comes emptyhanded; by which means the Builder has not only the Expenses of his Feast reimbursed, but sometimes more than what he has laid out in such a stupendious Fabric. These Encaenia, or Feasts Dedicatory, do usually hold for some days together, during which time they live an Epicuraean life, in Luxury and Riot, Dancing, Singing and Playing. Most of their House furniture is what properly belongs to the Kitchen: but as for Table, Stools, Benches, Tablecloth, Napkins, Beds and Cushions they never use any, and when they eat sit down humbly upon a Mat.  

Their Habit and Attire  The Common People go almost naked, but these of the best rank are aparreled in different vestures, to distinguish the sexes; the men wearing Breaches which reach from the middle to the Calf of the leg, and from the middle upward a Cotton cloth, (almost like a Scotch Plad) thrown carelessly about their shoulders, girded about the middle with a Surcingle. The Women wear a Garb, with, and without, sleeves, demitted to the knees, having also a kind of Drawers with a Girdle about the body, and sometimes a little mantle thrown about their Shoulders. Their clothes are mostly of Cotton, Bombast, and Silk of various Colours, garnished with loops of Silk, which is of another colour than the Garment itself. Both men and women go bareheaded, and barefoot, except one sort, whereof the Man wears a Cap, something resembling that of a Jesuit, and the Woman a Hood made after the form of a Pyramid, which comes down to the shoulders.  

Their Marriages.  Their Marriages are generally performed without many Ceremonies; and Polygamy allowed, every man taking to himself so many Wives as he thinks fit, or is capable to maintain. They are also easily divorced, Their men will not stick to delight themselves with the Wives of others, and the Women as inclinable to that way, as any in the World, and are careful to make use of every Opportunity they meet with: This they esteem no sin, but account it (if they can do it cunningly without being catched in the Fact) but a kind of Filching or clandestine Theft, which may be expiated, with some inconsiderable Present, or Gift. Their Young women are also great Trade● that Way; and without shamefacedness will render themselves prostitute, to any that will but give good wages, and those generally most opplauded, which come off with most Gain: and if they inten● to marry will not give their Consent to their Party, till they have mad● proof of his Manhood. The Parents are delighted to see their Children active in imitation, and yet notwithstanding this licentious sensuality be tolerated in the Action, yet they will be offended at their Daughters, if they utter any word without the limits of modesty.  
When any Person comes to die, the nearest Friends and Allies, 
Their Funerals  do bathe the Corpse; and then adorned with Bracelets and Earrings, and wrapped in fine clothes, is carried in a Mat to the place of burial. But the Funeral Rites of Persons of the highest rank are performed with greater pomp; for when one of such Quality dies, he is also bathed after that manner as we have already said; which done they shave him, and if it be a Woman put a hood upon her head, and adorn her with precious ornaments. Then come in the nearest Kindred, as Father, Mother and others of the Consanguinity, with Women, Children and Slaves, to bewail the Dead, making a lamentable howling and yelling, the tears trickling down the Cheeks. Others begin by way of Elegy to recite the Praises of the deceased Party, and others to beat Drums, the rest fall a dancing. These Ceremonies ended, one of them addresses himself to the Corpse, as if it were alive, Ask these, or the like Questions. Oh my dear Friend! how camest thou to die? Or, didst thou want for any thing? Hadst not thou cattle, Gold, Silver, Steel, and other Goods enough? etc. When they have deplored the Departure of their Friend, and danced the whole day, they kill a Fatling or two, which is distributed among his Relations in the Evening. So long as the Corpse is above ground they burn light by it; and when they are ready to inter him, they close him in a Coffin made of the Trunk of a Tree which is fitly shut up, and carried to a little Cottage made on purpose, in the middle whereof is a Grave about 6 foot deep, here they lay him, and set by his side a Basket of Rice, a Tobacco-box, an Earthen Pan, a Chaffin-dish; a suit of Apparel, a Girdle, with what other things they conceive he shall have occasion for, in such a long and tedious Journey. So soon as they have done that, they roll a great stone to the door of his sepulchre, and sacrifice some beast or other to the Devil, that they may not annoy or molest him on his way to Paradise. 
Impious cruelty over their Children.   
Of all the Idolatrous Customs that I could observe among them, there is some Nation or other that hath parity with them; But one Barbarous and inhuman Practice they have, as peculiar and proper to themselves, that is, making away of their own Children. True it is that in most places in India and Tartary, they make merchandise of their Children, and that by reason of their not being in a capacity of bringing them up, but never (like those of Madagascar) take away their lives. This they are induced to by an implicit Faith, being persuaded by their Priests, that they are born upon unhappy days, and shall be subject to great misery and afflictions so long as they live; or that the Planet under which the Child is born, has some bad influence upon it; and having viewed the Palms of his hands, and his Face, make conclusion that he will be either Thief, or Parricide, etc. Upon these and the like Occasions, they deliver the Child over to a Slave, which he is to carry out of the way, and throw it into a Ditch or under a Thorn-hedge, where the poor Infant must either die of hunger, or be devoured up of Dogs, or other Beasts of Prey. Others there are among those Women, who when they are with Child if they find themselves never so little out of order, immediamediately ascribe the cause to the ill Nature of the unborn Babe, and either kill it before it come into the World, or so soon as it is born bury it alive, and sometimes throw it into the Water. If a Woman slave chance to prove with Child by her Patron, and be turned away; so that she be not able to bring it up, she either strangles, or dispatches it before it come into the World: and sometimes a white Woman having a Child by a Negro, if she see it resemble the Father, or have curled hair: as also their Young-women, who make themselves prostitute for Gain, follow the like Course, but commonly murder the Infant before it be born, deeming it but a burden to them, and a hindrance of their Profession. But besides all these inhuman Customs they have another no whit inferior to those already said, that when the woman dies in Childbed, the Child is thrown alive with the Mother into the Grave, saying. Better it is that the Child dies, than to be brought up by strangers. And because so many days are by them held infortunate, almost half of the Children are dispatched, which with other occasions already mentioned, is undoubtedly the reason that this great, happy and most fruitful Island is not very populous, where not only Polygamy is allowed, but also such freedom given to the unmarried to satisfy their lust, and libidinous ends. Yet certain it is that there is a Stock of people among them, who are more compassionate with their Young, and when they presume that the Child is so possessed, do only cause a Slave to carry it away and hide it a while, and soon after fetch it home again: assoon as they have got it home again, they Sacrifice some beast, or Fowl, or perhaps shut it up in a Hen-roost, thinking thereby to assuage and moderate the ill temper of the child's spirit, which otherwise would lead him to some unhappy end.  
The Religion of the Madagascars, is hardly worth recounting, 
Their Religion  they being wholly Strangers both to Houses of Worship, and also to Prayer. They believe that there is a God who hath made both Heaven and Earth, but neither adore nor serve him, yet growing old or sick, they make a kind of Confession to him. They also believe that there is a Devil, who is the Occasion of all evil, having the power of Life and Death in his hand, and that they must conserve a perpetual Peace with him, by Worship and Sacrifice. Besides their Opinion that there is a God and an evil Spirit, they have a third Power, which they call Diana Manans, or Lord of Wealth, at whose disposing will, they think that they are made rich and prosper in their affairs. They seem also to have some light of invisible Angels, and of the first peopling of the World, after the Creation by Adam & Eve, and the repeopling thereof, after the great Deluge by Noah; as also some glance of a Saviour, who was made a Piaculum, for some great offence committed by all mankind in general. They have also their Fasts and holidays.  
Circumcision is also a rite in use with them, 
Their Circumcision.  which they do at one certain time of the year, with great solemnity. The day before all the Friends and Acquaintance meet together, and drink Metheglin till they grow raging mad: and then draw up upon the beating of a Drum, exercising with their Darts and 
* An Assagay, as themselves call it, is a kind of dart, about 5 or 6 foot long.  Assagays; the young men and Women all the time dancing in Masquerado, and in the Evening conclude with a luxurious Banquet, and open table for all that please to come. At night the mother takes the child to bed with her, in a little House made for that purpose, about a month before the day of Circumcision, by the Father and Uncles of the Child. The next morning by break of day, the Woman riseth, and baths herself, afterwards her child: which done she dresses it with Coral and Precious stones, and thereupon they fall a drumming again, after which a great silence is made, and all the Guests which are there, must withdraw, as also all such as have any thing about their body that is red; thinking that if such were present, the blood would not stench. Assoon as all are withdrawn, except these that are nominated to assist, the Priest takes his knife, and ties a white towel about his left leg; that done the Father and Uncles of the Child, take each of them a Child under the Arm, enter in at the West-door, and out again at the East; and so sitting down, the Priest performs the work. If it be the Son of a Slave or Bondwoman, the Prepuce is thrown away, but if otherwise, it is preserved by the Uncle of the child, who lays it up in the Yelk of an Egg, for some Enchantment, or other; these people being reputed very active Exorcists, and much inclined to Necromancy: and lastly the● apply a mixture of Cocks-blood and the juice of some Herbs, t● the wound; which done they march home, with great Exultation and joy, and so ends the Ceremony.  

Their Government and Policy.  This Island is divided into many Kingdoms and Dominions, which are the Occasion of perpetual discord and wars among the● Their Arms are Bows and Arrows, Javelins, and Targets, which they can use expertly well. They are for matter of courage an● valour second to none; but fight without any Discipline or Order breaking in with the main Battalion upon the Enemy, till the● grow so confused, that they cannot distinguish their own, fro● the contrary Party. During the time of War. They run out ● small Companies to plunder and pillage the Towns and Cottage of their Enemies, and afterward set them on fire. When the Ma● is in Battle or under March, the Wife continually dances an● sings, and will not sleep, or eat in her own House, nor admit of the Use of any other Man, unless she be desirous to be rid o● her own; for they entertain this Opinion among them, That if they suffer themselves to be overcome with an intestine War at home▪ their Husbands must suffer for it, being engaged in a foreign Expedition; but on the contrary, if they behave themselves chastely, and dance lustily, that then their Husbands by some certain Sympathetical operation, will be able to vanquish all their Con-combatants.  
During the time of our abode there, we saw the King Diembr● several times engaged with his Enemy, who had a more powerful Army than he, his own not exceeding 7000 men. So soon as th● Enemy gave battle, Diembro with his Battalion ran upon him (after they had done with the Javelins) in a promiscuous order, every one pitching upon his man, and after a short Engagement gave over, with the loss of some of the best on each side; although Diembro, considering the great imparity of men, had the better Success, and honour of the Camp. When the Battle was done, our party returned, with great Joy for the Day, and every one that could bring the Heads of the Champions, with whom they were particularly engaged, laid them at the feet of the King, who either gave them a noble recompense, or honoured them with some Dignity.  
They have a very acquaint manner of making Peace. 
The manner of their Treating about Peace.  The Parties inclined to adjoust their Quarrels, send first a Herald, with Presents, who desire to have communication with the Hostility, which when it is granted them, they nominate Time and Place where they may have conference, in order to bring their Discord to some amicable composure. The Messenger having performed his charge, returns to the King his Master, who gives the General order to put himself in a Posture of marching; the General in obedience thereto musters up all his Forces and sits down before some River, where the Enemy faces him on the Bank, on the other side. When both parties have made their appearance, they kill each of them a Bullock, take out the Liver, and roast it, and send each other a piece, which is interchangeably received and eaten in presence of the Heralds or Legates which are sent on purpose to see that the Ceremony be effectually performed, binding themselves with a solemn Oath, and under a Curse, never to break the Truce which is agreed upon, between them: and at the same time repeat some mutual Articles, as, 
Not to kill one another's Men.  
Not to steal one another's cattle.  
Not to burn Villages.  
Not to poison one another's Rivers and Fountains. etc.  And afterwards utter many bitter Execrations, as, That the Liver they eat, may be their poison if they do not faithfully hold all the Articles specified both sacred and inviolable.   

CHAP. III. The Author's departure from Madagascar, Arrival at Sumatra. Four Prizes belonging to Atchin taken. The beastly Sensuality of some of the Ships-company, upon a Woman. The Ship whereon the Author was, taken as Prize, and brought up to Batavia. The men plundered and their Chests broken up. The Author admits himself into the Service of the East India Company, his Voyage to Siam. An accurate description of that Kingdom.  

MAR. 1649.  HAving stayed fully 5 months at Madagascar, we set sail for Sumatra on the 16 of March 1649, where we arrived on the 12 of june then following. We came to anchor in the Bay of Sillaba where we exchanged some Commodities for Pepper and other Spices. On this Coast we took two junks belonging to Atchin, but all the people jumped over board, and saved themselves, except one Woman, whom the Italians, ravished, the Officers not able to restrain them. The Woman after she had been thus treated by these sensual bruits (that rather than to deny their beastly appetite, made a Bawdy house of our Ship) was after much entreaties put ashore, and delivered to her Husband, who inhumanly mangled he● till she died.  
On the 28 we weighed anchor, and set sail for Indraepoura, taking by the way, two junks more, loaden with Pepper, Camphi● and other Drugs and Spices. On the 29 we arrived at Indrapoura where we took in some necessary Provision and Refreshments, thinking by the way to meet with more small Prizes, but had no● our expectation.  
On the 2 of July, we left Indrapoura, and so set sail for th● Straits of Sunda. When we had got the height of Toppers hook, w● met 14 Sail of Ships, belonging to the Dutch East-India company which were sent out by express order of the General, and the Council, to bring us up, whether willing, or unwilling. So soo● as our commander had received the Message, he returned answer That he was not under the command of the General, and tha● if they should assail him, he was resolved, to fight in his ow● defence. The Dutch commander was hereat in a doubt, and sent ● Batavia for new Instructions. It was not long before he got an Order from the General, 
JAN. 1650.  with a Ship of War to assist him in case of Opposition: and thereupon imperiously commanded him to strike, threatening to fire a whole tear of Guns in case of refusal. Capt. Maas, who seeing himself now in a great Strait, and the uneasiness of his Ships-folk, called together all the Officers, to consult the matter, when after mature deliberation they concluded it more safe to surrender themselves, and give their Masters a true account of the business, seeing they were not able to defend themselves against such a number of Ships. This Resolution was very acceptable to the Ships-company, who since that division and uproar at Madagascar, were still at odds, 
The Ships surrendered to the Dutch.  continually jarring among themselves, and longed for this, or the like opportunity. The Company now made Masters of our Ships, brought them up to Batavia, where we arrived the 12 of july. Our Ships outsailed the rest by far, we arriving at the Haven 6 or 8 hours before them; so that if we had been willing, might have left them, and made our escape by night.  
On the 15 came Captain vander Meulen aboard, with an Order from the Heer vander Liin, than General, to take possession of the Ship. Assoon as he was aboard, went into the great Cabin, where he examined us one by one. All the Dutch were brought abaft; and afterwards committed to the Javans Corpse du Garde. The Italians and other Strangers remained aboard, and in the mean while pillaged our Chests, and took all the money they could come at. They being now at liberty and dismissed, went every man where he best liked, the Italians mostly to Goa, or Banthem, but the Hamburgers and others embarked themselves for Europe. Shortly after the Commander died, and by several tokens he had on his body, was supposed to be poisoned; and as some conjecture was done by those which were left aboard the Ship, when we were carried ashore. After we had now lain about 14 days in prison, we delivered a Petition, desiring Enlargement; which was not only granted, but by Order of the General, all our Arrearages paid us to the utmost penny, and a Choice preferred us, Whether we would return home, or, List ourselves in the Companies service: some rather choosed to go home, but I, with the most part of the men, accepted of the latter. I hired myself as Sailmaker, for the Term of three years, at 18 Gild. per month.  

Arrival at Siam. The Kingdom of Siam described.  On the 15 january, I was put aboard the Black Bear, bound for Siam, where we safely arrived, and cast anchor in the Bay.  
The Kingdom of Siam lies in the most Easterly part of East India, from 7 to 8 degr. Northerly Latitude. There are many Cities, and Towns of note in it, and those very populous, among which India is the chief, being the Metropolis of India extra Gangem, and the city where the King has his Court and Residence. The land is very fertile, affoarding all that may serve for the delight and sustenance of human Bodies, the Fields stored with many sorts of cattle, the Rivers with Fish, and the Towns with Magazines of rich Merchandizes. The Inhabitants are of a tawny and yellowish complexion, and superstitious Pagans in Religion, as appears by their great Zeal, in adorning of their Temples, and strict Reverence for their Priests which are here too great and numerous for the Laity. Their Government is Monarchical, and the King for many ages has been absolute Sovereign, over this and the neighbouring Territories and Dominions, and that with as much Power, Grandour, and Reverence from the Subject, as any Potentate or King, under the canopy of Heaven. In short, Siam in regard of its Fertility, Wealth, Number of Inhabitants, and subordinat Principalities, may parallel any other Empire i● the Universe.  

Judia.  judia, which (as we have already said) is the Imperial Tow● of Siam, lies about 16 degrees Northerly Latitude from the Aequ●tor, and is seated on one of the fairest Rivers (without doubt) in all the Eastern World, where a Ship of the greatest burden may come up close to the Key, to load or unload, without fear o● sustaining damage.  
The Land is for the most part levelly, of a clay and sandy earth; ●ew Hills appear, or any thing else seems to surmount the Horizon, ●ve the high Towers and Pyramids, whereof we found an incredible number.  
About 8 leagues up the River is a small City, of a triangular Platform, and environed with a wall, called Bankok. In the same City 〈◊〉 the King's first Tollor Customhouse, 
Custome-Houses.  which they call the Canon ●ankok, and every Ship and Junk to whomsoever they belong are obliged to come to anchor there, and give in their information, upon ●hat account they come, and from whence; as also what Men and ●oods they have aboard. Having performed that Duty, they pay ●eir Toll, and receive their Billet, with Letters of Conduct, to ●o so far up as they list, till they come within a League of judia, ●here the second Toll-house is, called, the Canon Bantenau; and ●ere they are a second time bound to anchor, and exhibit their Coc●ets, which having shown, they have their liberty to go further. This scond Canon, is erected only to see that the Prince have his due, ●nd to examine whether that the Stranger be not defrauded by the commissioners of the first; and to give Licences to enter the Town, ●nd traffic. It is also to be understood, that when any Ship is outward bound, they are to pay their Toll at the Canon Bantenau. ●hich at coming up was the second, now the first Customhouse; and are to pass an Examen at the Canon Bankok, as they did ●efore at the other, without paying any thing, if they can manifest 〈◊〉 their Cocket, that they have already paid: and this every Vessel ●w mean soever it be, is bound to do, or in case of refusal to ●rfeit Ship and Carga.  
Siam although it have abundance of Towns, yet there are but 5 ●at are walled, in all the Kingdom, whereof judia is the strong, being about 3 
* Fifteen making a degree, it follows that 3 Dutch miles must, be 12 English land miles. or four Leagues at Sea.  Dutch miles in circuit: The walls are considerably strong, with round Bulwarks after the old way, but ●ter its manner very Stately and magnificent. Within the To● are some Thousands of Temples, Cloisters; and gilded Turre● which together do make a pompous show. The streets of t● City are very long and spacious, the Town itself surrounded w● a River about 2 Musquet-shot in breadth, and divides itself into streams, at that place where the King has his Court and R●dence. The Royal Palace is very magnificent and Costly, stron● walled about, and fortified, within also are very stately and no● Apartments, a Fabric which for Workmanship and Riches s● passes all that ever I have seen in India, and certainly, for ● Power and Grandour of the Prince, Splendour of the Pala● immense Wealth of the Inhabitants, Fertility of the Countr● and Temperateness of the Climate, it is second to no place in ●dia, if China may be excluded.  

Soil and Fertility of Siam.  The Soil is very good, and the Land fertile, producing yea● a vast increase of Rice and other Corn; It is also rich of Ca● as Kine, Hogs, Buffels, Elks, Hares and Coneys, incredi● Flocks of Deer, which are more hunted for their Hides than O● cases, they reckoning That one of the Staple commodities, ● export many Thousands yearly to japon, and other places of T●fic, so that the main Trading of the Company there to Ia● consists in that Merchandise. Wild-beasts are also here in g● abundance, as, Elephants, Rhinocerots, Leopards, Tigers, the like; as also all kinds of Fowl, both great and small, th● have seen in Europe, Swans and Nightingales only excepted, wh● I dare not be positive whether there be any or not. Nor are Rivers, 
Fish.  as also the Sea without good store of Fish, and that many kinds: The Seashore lies thick with Oysters, and Lobs● which are as delicate as they are plentiful. They use the Fish Trade also as in other places, and make great profit, especially a kind of Scate, that they take chiefly for the Skin, which th● of japon hold in great esteem, 
The great value of Scate Skins.  paying sometimes at the rate 50, or 60 Ducats for one Skin, if it be choice and good; yet suc● the difference, that I have seen a hundred Pieces of Eight paid ● single Skin, whilst it has been known, that a whole hundred wo● not yield 4. Rixdollars. These Skins they first dry, and ● ●eat care pack them up, and so export them. There are also in ●●is River many Crocodiles, which the Siamers call Cayman, and ●e them for Physic. 
Crocodiles used for Medicine.  There are also many venomous Creatures as serpent's, Adders, Scorpions and Snakes. It exuberates, besides ●e several Products already mentioned, in Sugar, Oil, Kitchin●d Medicinal herbs, and various kinds of Fruit: and in a word ●am is so well provided by nature of itself that the Inhabitants may apply themselves with what is necessary for human Life, and Re●eation, without the means of exotic Commerce, and importa●on of foreign Commodities.   

CHAP. IV. ●he Nature and Way of living of the Siamers. Their several Trades and Profession. Travail of their Merchants. Government and Polity. The great State of the Emperor, and Magnificency of his Throne: his Cavalcade, and manner of showing himself to his People. The Riches of his Vessels, the Elephants served in Gold and Silver. The Wars about the white Elephant, against Ava and Pegu.  
SIam, as I said before, is very populous, and the Inhabitants generally of a good and free disposition. They Negotiate strongly in every kind of Merchandise, whereof they can make a pro●t, and that more especially within Land.  
They are great incouragers of Art and Artists, especially the Mechanics, and such as they cannot well want, as House-and Ship-Carpenters, Masons, smith's, Braziers, Founders; Turner's, Plumbers, Pewterers, Painters, Carvers, Goldsmith's, Fuller's, lawyers, Joiner's, Weevers, and an infinite number of Jeweller's ●nd Lapidaries; Nor are they without their Physicians, Chirurgeons, and Lawyers, after their own manner. Here are also Ped●rs by Thousands, that travail from Town to Town, like such ●s follow the Fairs in Europe; these have no fast dwelling, but ●re in motion the whole year round, and sleep always in the booths which they erect wheresoever they come. Fishing and Husbandry ●re well promoted, for every man, be he never so mean, if he have a fast Residence, has his Lands, either less or more, which are cultivated with all imaginable diligence, as appears by the yearly Product of Grain, which not only supplies themselves, but is also exported into other Country's, as well on the main Continent, as the adjacent Islands. And so cheap is all manner of necessary Provision and sustenance, that Labourers and common Slave's wi● work any servile work for 3d d a Day.  
Every City has a Praetor, or Deputy, who derives his power from the King, and with a Council of Assistance is to determine of all Matters and Affairs, as well Civil as Criminal. The same Praetor, or Viceroy has also charge over the Imperial Revenues Tolls, and Customs, to see that they be paid without defrauding of the King, and that the Sub-commissioners of the said Dutie● do not exact upon Foreigners, that are not acquainted with th● Rates imposed upon their Goods. This Officer, as also ever● Officer of State, is only to continue three years in one place, an● at the expiration of that term, is either removed to a place of gre●ter Trust and Eminency, or has his Discharge sent him. The Suits at Law are presently brought to an end, and Sentence pass● according to equity, without regard to the Degree and Quality the Parties; the Client first going to a Notary, and has his ca● fairly stated, which then is brought to an Advocate, who is ● discuss and comment it before the Praetor, as in most places ● Europe: with this difference only, that the Advocate or Attorney has the power to continue or give over the Suit, as he thinks f● which is ordained to prevent tedious Appeals, and perpetual clamours at Court. Criminal Affairs are punished severely enough especially, 
Malefactors severely punished.  Treason and Murder, nor do they dispense with an● places of Refuge, or Sanctuary, for the Perpetratours of suc● enormous Crimes.  
There is no Potentate in the East may parallel this Emperor fo● Magnificence and Pomp. He never sets his foot upon the Earth, bu● is carried on a Throne of Gold, from place to place; and usually appears once a day before his Peers and Grandees, which always attend the Court: these show him all imaginable Reverence, an● ascribe him such honour as accrues to no Mortal. When any desire to speak with him, so soon as he gets admission, presents himself upon his knees, his hands folded, and his countenance cast to the Ground; then bowing of his body and kissing the Earth, he begins his Harangue, which is always done with a submissive voice, and at the end of every Sentence, rehearses his Title, JAOVA TJAUW PERRE BOEDE TJAUW JAOVA, which by an Idiotism of our own, is King of Kings, and Lord of Lords. 
Stately Throne of the King.  His supreme Throne is of massive Gold, made after the form of a Pyramid, and so contrived that none can see him ascend. On each side of the Throne stand several Statues, and Creatures of monstrous shapes; as is recorded of the Judgment-seat of Solomon, which was guarded with Lions. His Person is secured with a very noble Guard, and well armed; several Elephants always ready in the inner court of the Palace also, for his Pleasure and Service upon occasion; these are mounted with Trappings of rich Silk, fimbriated and embossed with Gold, and precious Stones.  
When he goes abroad to visit his Pagods and Religious Houses, or to take his Divertisement (which is ordinarily twice or thrice every year) he is attended with an infinite Retinue of Grandees, and Officers at Court, as also all his Wives and Concubines, which are very numerous, all mounted upon Elephants. When this Setting forth is not performed with a Cavalcade, but by Water; there are a certain number of Praws, brought up close to the Palace. These are almost like a Barge, but far greater, having 20 or 30 Oars a piece, with 5 men to an Oar; without they are richly gilded and charged with Festons and Foliages on a diapered ground. Others there are less noble and rich, which serve only to transport the Soldatesque, and aboard every Praw are several that play upon Wind Instruments and Drums, which make a confused noise; Upon the hearing of this, every one, whether Citizen or Peasant, Freeman or Slave, Young or Old, is enjoined to come forth and fall prostrate, with all imaginable Reverence, upon very severe Penalties, according to the Quality and Discretion of the Party. This Injunction is observed very strictly, and certain Officers ordained ●o take notice of the Delinquents, whose Rule is Arbitrary, and Mesures sudden; they are so correct in punishing such that few escape; I myself having seen, while I was there, some two or three beheaded with a Scimitar, only for being too remiss, in doing Worship; although in such as want Discretion, or otherwise unable to perform the Ceremony, through invalidity of Body or Mind, the Offence is either dispensed with, or expiated with some inconsiderable Forfeiture. This Solemn Appearance happening so rarely and that with such Majesty, creates great Loyalty and veneration in the heart of the Subjects for their Prince: and surely the conclusion and effect of every Maxim in Politic Affairs is the securest Index; o● Distinction from a Contrary, which almost all the Kingdoms an● Dominions of the East afford an Example of, and more notedly th● Sophy of Persia, who when with a huge Retinue he makes a Cav●cade (which might seem to be for no other end than to be seen) no● dare presume to appear in the street, upon pain of Death; of whi● more hereafter.  

Great plenty of Gold.  Gold is here in such plenty that not only Plates, Chargers, Goblet's, Bowls, Basins, Lavers, and whatsoever else is useful 〈◊〉 the King's Table, is all of solid Gold, but also greater vessels in t● Kitchen; which had I not seen them myself, should have held incredible, 
The Elephants served in Gold and Silver.  if the weight and greatness had truly been reports But what is yet more, the white Elephant, with the rest (wh● are about 6 or 8 in Number) kept within the Palace, are served Gold and Silver. The Gallantry of the Court, and the gorge● attire of the Courtiers, is unspeakeably rich. And to be brief I should repeat the Majesty of that Prince in Power and Comm● The profuse Emulation of the Courtiers in Embroidery, Je● and other costly Ornaments, and the Magnificent Structure of Palace and other stately Fabrics; I should either prove too weak the performance of such a Province, or, hazard my reputation giving a Narrative of the Pomp which I have in reality beheld, such as have not seen it, who would in all probability be too torous to take things of that nature upon Credit. This I shall o● add, that rather than to be undeservedly taxed with hyperbeliz● Froth, I'll content myself with a recommendation thereo● other modest Gentlemen that have been there, and published t● Journals for the public perusal of the Curious in general.  

Of their Wars.  The present King of Siam, has lived in great peace and ●●quillity, ever since he first swayed the Sceptre: But in the tim● the late King, that nation has been deeply engaged in foam troubles: Specially with Pegu, Ava and Langjander, partly out of the ambitious minds of those Princes, and partly out of a sordid covetousness; as of the king of Pegu, who endeavoured to make himself Master of the white Elephant, which he of Siam had: 
Quicquid delirant reges, plectuntur Achivi.  but after the depopulation of the countries, and loss of many thousand Souls, they made Peace upon strict Articles.  
In the year 1648, the King of Ava with the assistance of a neighbouring Potentate, invaded part of Siam, and took in some open Villages, and Towns of smaller note; but the king of Siam coming to have notice of this sudden Expedition, levies an Army of 200000 men, or upwards, marching himself at the head in Person; and encamped about 2 English Miles from the Enemy, where without either Battle or Skirmish they lay for 3 Months, when the Enemy not finding himself able to continue longer in camp, for want of Provision, and Recruits of men, was fain to break up; and march homewards. Those of Patany had sent Ten Thousand men, all well disciplined and armed, for Auxiliaries in the Service of the king of Siam; but those arrived too late, the King being just upon his March for judia; where about 20 days after, he was Solemnly fetched in by his Nobles with great Triumph and Joy, as if he had obtained some notable Victory: and certainly it was the most prudent course he could have taken, to spare his own people, by shunning the Bloodshed of so many innocent souls, vanquishing the Hostility by the restraint of his Arms; and in making himself formidable with the greatness of his Battalions. There was also a Navy of Twenty Thousand Praws, pressed for the behoof of the Army, to transport the Baggage and Provision; and besides the standing Militia and Voluntairs, 52000 Citizens pressed for this Expedition, whom the King allowed Rice for Victualling, the rest they were to take care for themselves. The Mandate was no sooner out, but this Body was completed, which gave occasion of wonder, to some, when they observed the readiness and obedience of those Pagans to their lawful Sovereign. The weapons used then for that Dispatch, were mostly fire-arms, and about 20 Pieces of Ordnance, which were committed to the charge of 2 expert Gunners; besides 5 Thousand Elephants, and 2 Thousand Horse; those that were mounted on Elephants were armed with Bows, Arrows and Darts, and the Cavalry with Firelocks, Scimatars and Bucklers, which Armoury is always ready for use in the King's Repository. As for Powder they are never at a loss thro' want of it, having such plenty of Saltpetre, which is the main Ingredient thereof: so that it is most certain, the Siammers are never destitute of any necessary Ammunition for War, either upon offensiv or defensiv Occasions. Nor yet second to any for true valour and courage, which is checked by a prudent Conduct, and politic Direction of their Power; and thereby the Prince, and the leading Officers of the Army, become dreadful to the Neighbouring Potentates abroad, and awful to the Subject at home.   

CHAP. V. The Revenues and Treasury of the King of Siam. The Religious zeal of those Kings in building of Temples, and Houses for pious uses. Soldiers without pay. The great Slavery and Charges of the Citizens and Plebeians, their Obedience, and Liberality in devotion. Ample Revenues of the Spiritual. Habit and Function of their Priests. The Multitude and monstrous bigness of some of their Idols. Their Ceremonies in Worship; wherein congruous to those of the Romis● Religion.  

Revenues of the King of Siam.  THE Revenues of the King of Siam, as we have elsewhere said consist mostly in Customs, Tolls and Excise, for all exported Wares and Commodities, besides the Fishing, and Growth● the Land, as Corn, Fruit, Trees, etc. There are also in the Country several subterrannean and fossible things, Mines of Gold an● Silver, Lead-and-Pewter, besides great store of Sappan-wood, 〈◊〉 good as that of Brasilia, which is reputed a very rich Commodity and sent abroad both to Coromandel, Dabul, China, japon, and oth● Islands in the East. 
The devour zeal of the Kings of Siam in erecting of Pagods, Religious Houses-and Temples.  When Any that is employed in the King's servi● dies, 2 Thirds of his Estate fall to the King, and the residue to th● Wife and Children of the deceased; or else in lieu thereof such Salary as they are contented with. The like when any Merchan● Stranger comes to die within the Kingdom, two Thirds of h● Estate are brought into the Chamber of Finances.  
The King having that special mean of making the Army suppo● its self, is at very little Charges else, save what his zeal moves hi● to, in Building of Temples, Religious Houses and Towers, to the Honour of his Gods, which indeed are infinitely numerous and costly in this Country; the enobling of his court, with some unnecessary things tending to his own Honour, about which much money is consumed; and lastly providing of Annunition and Shipping upon occasion of War: but as we have already mentioned, 
Soldiers without Pay, and used as Slaves.  the Soldatesque have no Pay from the King, except a certain allowance of Rice, and what Spoil they can take from the Enemy; and these, although they go under the Denomination of Soldiers, yet are but Slaves at best, being employed in all servile uses, as Labourers, when, and where, the King commands.  
The Citizens (which may be called Freemen or Proprietaries) are but half a remove from Soldiers, 
The Condition of the Citizens.  they being obliged to maintain and repair all the Fortifications at their own cost, and defend them in time of need. Yet notwithstanding those heavy burdens imposed on the Commonalty, in the performance whereof they are not found remiss, or tardy, they bring up above twenty 
* Dutch Tuns, without dispute.  Tun of Gold yearly, for Offerings to their Pagods, and the behoof of the Spiritual; insomuch that the Priests, with the large Offerings of the King, and Liberality of the People, grow rich and in great esteem, notwithstanding their being so numerous in this Kingdom.  
The King and People embrace no other Religion than barely Gentilism, which, as appears by the ruins of Monasteries and Cells every where, has been anciently professed among them. Their Ceremonies they seem to have borrowed from the Roman, or Greek Church, which they ape, as near as may be, with reservation of Paganism. They are incessantly building, repairing and adorning the Temples of their Pagods, founding Cloisters, and erecting of Pyramids; wherein they spare not for money: for though they spend their whole Estates, about them, they must be gilded without, and richly hung within. Their Bonzi, or Priests, are distinguished from the Laïty by a yellow Vesture, and those again differing among themselves by certain Badges, or tokens, denoting their degrees: Their Beards, Head and Eiebrows are always shaved. According to their Order, they may not handle Money, Marry, nor make use of Women, upon severe Penalties; for if any be taken, in company with a Female, he is burned alive, or at best banished the Kingdom during the Term of Life; and certainly if their Codpiece were not fastened with such a heavy Padlock; the Laymens' Wives and Daughters could never be secure, from that pestiferous rout? 'tis true by their Rule they are not to handle money, yet like the Jesuits, have accumulated to themselves vast Treasures, which are accompanied with a great reverence and honour from the Commonalty, who whether they have sustenance for their Family and Children at home, will not see the Bonzi destitute of what he has a mind to, whether it be in Victuals or Apparel. Their Function is to exhort and teach the People, for which end they have certain Lectures, four times every moon, and at tha● time set open the Temples, where all the people resort, and meet in due order. So soon as they have buzzed over a few formal words, they begin a kind of Admonition, insisting upon several good works and moral virtues, but especially to be liberal to the Bonzi, or Priests, and the Pagods: How far this prevails upon them appears truly in their freewill offerings, which are indeed very considerable, in Gold, Silver, Garments and Meat, which the Bonzi then receive at the Offertory, promising to make some new Gods therewith, or adorn the Old.  
At morning and at night they go to prayers, which they rehearse with a loud voice, that any stranger thereto induced b● curiosity, may be permitted to see and hear. They go also t● visit the Sick, and pray for the Deceased, with great sobbings, and tokens of sorrow. When they have done Prayer they sing all together in a Chorus, in the 
* Which are their Ghostly Languages, as Arabic in the Al●oran, and Latin at Mass.  Pegu or Borneo Tongue, and that with a tolerable good Harmony; that done, they walk leisurely towards the head of the Temple, and kiss the Pagods. The Pagods are images of divers sorts of Metals, as some of Gold, Silver and Brass others of Woodor Stone. In the Cathedral of India are twelve Pagods of a vast Bigness, sitting all cross legged, like Tailors upon a Table: the chief whereof was 13 fathom high, as he sat, being of a due Symmetry and Analogy, through all his members. This is usually called by the Dutch, Den grooten Afgodt van SOES, that is, The great Idol of SOES. The rest were somewhat less than this and were placed directly one before another. The Ceremonies which we have already said to have affinity with the Church of Rome, are, Burning of Lamps, Consecrated, or Holywater, Auricular Confession, Indulgences, and Pilgrimages, under taken for themselves and others, whereby they are of opinion that they merit much, One of them would (if I had given my Consent) have gone on a long and tedious Pilgrimage for me. They have some special kindness for the Hollanders, in that they allow Liberty of Conscience, and revile not their 
* For that were not consistent with Money catching in those Country's, where they could never yet finger it by Violence and Tyranny.  Gods, as do the mahometans, for which reason the Opinion of that grand Impostor, could never get footing in this Kingdom.   

CHAP. VI Good materials for building in Siam. Their manner of House-keeping, and entertainment of Friends. Neatness and cleanliness in their Houses and Bodies. Their way of dressing themselves, both men and Women. Strange Contracts of matrimony. Early marriage. Education of their Children. Learning and learned men had in great veneration. Rites about their deceased. Urbanity in their Conversation. The great Affection of the Emperor towards Strangers etc.  
SIam has of itself whatsoever is requisite in building either for Houses or Shipping: they neither want Lime, Stone, Led, Iron, 
Good Materials for building in Siam.  nor Wood, or whatsoever else is necessary. Yet notwithstanding Stone be here in plenty enough, yet they build their Dwelling-houses mostly of Wood, and reserve Stone for the use of their Pagods, Temples, Pyramids, Fortifications and other Public Edifices. Their Houses they cover with Tiles, and within have several Apartments, 
House-keeping and entertainment of Friends.  as we have in Europe. They use not many moveables in their Houses neither use they Benches, Stools, or Tables. Their Floors are all spread with Mats which they use for cleanliness, and upon these they sit down. But if a person of Eminency comes to visit them they honour him with another Matt, or else an Arabian Carpet, which is of excellently well wrought Tapestry. When he is set, they give him Fair-water in Gold or Silver Goblets, and a 
* As Coffee in the Lev●nt, or Chocolate in Spain.  Fiery Pinang, which is the chief thing wherewith they caress their Friends. They are very nice and curious about their Vessels in the Kitchen and Dishes, which for the most part are of brass, and of a neat fashion, but generally cha● They are also very cleanly in their Chamber, and surpass any oth● people that I have seen, 
Cleanly in their Chambers and about their Bodies.  either before or since. They keep their b●dies cleaner than the Turks themselves, and bathe themselves of● than they eat, which is not only their Head, Hands and Feet, ● was the Custom of the Talmudists, and those under the Levit● Law, but all over: which being done, they anoint themselves w● perfumed Confectures, made of fragrant Spices, and Herbs. Some them I have known use an Ointment made of Xylaloës, or, wood Aloës, Sandal, Musk, and Ambergris, tempered with R● water, which besides the delectable odour it renders, is a g● Preservative against epidemical and pestilential Airs.  

Men how attired when a broad.  Whensoever their Devotion moves them to go and visit t● Friends, or the Pagods, which they frequently adore, they b● and anoint themselves after this wise, and afterwards, attire th●selves in a Garb peculiar to such Solemnities: the Men have all t● fingers loaden with gold Rings, as many as they can well pu● without hindering the due use of their Joints, and a long Co● Robe, or Cassock, of divers colours either so woven, or ●ted; which appears very gorgeously: this is their Habit from middle downward; under that they wear a Shirt of very fine Lin● or Cotton, of red, white, or other colours: above the middle a kin● Surplice, with wide sleeves (like the Gown of a Batchlour of in our Universities) Head, Hands and Feet are all bare.  

womans how attired.  The Women have their hair tied up in a round ball, on the c● of the head, fastened with a golden Bodkin, 5 or 6 inches long their Ears they hang Pendants of Gold about a finger long, w● are fastened to the Tips of their Ears, by great wide holes, b● when they are Young, the head where they fasten the Penda● set with Precious stones, as Ruby, Diamond, Amethyst, Emerald Pearls. Besides the Rings, which are also set with Diamonds other Stones, and sometimes plain, they wear others about t● arms, which are massy and ponderous. They wear also a long Ve● of 7 or 8 foot long, and 6 or 7 broad, painted of divers colo● being fastened with a Surcingle about 16 foot long, wound ro● their body, which is neatly embroidered with Gold; From middle upward they have nothing but a Cotton-cloth, or a Sca● coloured Silk which they throw about their shoulders to cover their breasts. To be brief the Habit of Men and Women, as well as Children, is as costly as gaudy, and their Persons of a very handsome stature, but rather with the shortest; so that with the stateliness of attire, and comeliness of body, they present better than those of China or japon. When they walk the streets, they are attended with a retinue of Slaves conformable to their Rank and Ability, which are also in gentile habit.  
The Siammers, although Pagans, have a sacred veneration for Matrimony, and are generally very chaste; 
Marriages the Siammers.  Yet they do not esteem it a dishonour or shame to be Adulterers. Whoredom is in some regard dispensed with (or at least connived at) nevertheless they are not much inclined to Venery, but content themselves with such as they are engaged to by Wedlock: and in their honest demeanour towards their lawful Consorts (of whether sex it be meant) may convince most of us, that profess the Faith of Christ: The conjugal Love of Man and Wife is so mutually observed on both sides, and the ●ilial Duty of Children towards their Parents, so reciprocally ●d, that some who pretend to a more than natural Light, need not to reckon those too mean a praecedent for Morality. The parents are very careful to educate their children, when they are young, and the children diligent in nourishing and providing for their parents, when they are grown aged, and unable to help themselves.  
A Batchlour desirous to marry, and consequently having settled his thoughts upon a Maid, must address himself (or send some friend) to the Father of the party, or having none, to her Guardian, and not the Maid herself, with whom they may not converse; and these are to treat together upon the matter. But it is more usual, that the Parents of both the parties make the Overture, among themselves. They have no respect to Consanguinity or Affinity, but marry sometimes with the nearest relations they have, Brother and Sister only excluded, unless they have different Mothers. But to strangers they rarely marry, although it were to a Family of a better rank or Fortune. They look much after Wealth and Beauty, but not so much after virtuous Inclinations, as we do; neither are they prone to be led aside with affability, or flattery, as sometimes happens among us, which tends frequently to a future discontent and irrevocable calamity. Now as the Parents always make up the Marriage, s● the young couple may not of themselves dissolve it; and the better to avoid any dissatisfaction, which may arise from the dislike that the one may have of the other, they are generally marrie● before they come to maturity, when they are not capable of judging, as at 10 years of age. I have seen a Couple married, th● man at 12 and the Woman not fully 9 Another couple I hav● known, who had 2 Children, and both their ages could not mak● up 25 years. 
Polygamy.  Polygamy is here allowed, for every man may marr● so many Wives, as he lists, unless he be under some particus● obligation to the contrary. They are sometimes divorced for sleder reasons, but always when they cannot procreate Children and being separate they may severally marry again. Their Marriages are not confirmed by the Spiritual, but Temporal Magistral yet always the Priest, must be present to do Sacrifice on beha● both the Parties, They are very punctual in observing all the Articles specified in the Covenant of Matrimony, without the c●stringency of the Law. They regulate themselves in Hous-ke●ing, Education of their Children and the like, mostly after Law of Nature, without restraint or compulsion. Their Child● are very flexible and obedient, without beating or other sev● chastisement. When they are young their Parents commit the to the Bonzi, who instruct them in all Sciences and good manne● as also mechanical Professions and Trades, whereby they afterwards get their living: 
Learning and Learned men in great esteem.  Although most of them desire rathert stick to their studies, and so embrace the Function of Priesthood such being among them esteemed honourable, that have any tinct● of Learning.  

The dead burned to Ashes.  Their Dead they bury not, but, after the manner of the o● Romans, burn them; which is celebrated with great pomp, and expenses, proportionable to the merits or ability of the Party. T● Ashes they conserve in an Urn, which they enclose in a Pyram● erected to the Memory of the Deceased: others out of Zeal ca● Churches and Monasteries to be built; or bequeath large Re●nues to the Pagods and Bonzi: nay, there is hardly a Slave amo● them but gives something for Religious uses, or perhaps all t● he was master of; and upon these occasions they are burned at 〈◊〉 charges of the Convent. Those that die of any disease which they repute unclean as Smallpox, Fevers, etc. are not burned, but either thrown into a River with a stone about their neck, or given to the Beasts of prey. The same they do with Children, if they come to die before a certain age, for that they say, That for want of discretion they could not rightly Worship their Deïty, and consequently do not deserve an Urn.  
They are of a very liberal nature, and civil to converse withal, 
Urbanty in their conversation.  but especially to Strangers. English, Portugueezes, Hollanders, and Moors, without respect to their Profession, have liberal access to enter, inhabit and traffic in the Land, by order of the King; and enjoy as much Liberty, and benefit of the Law, as his own natural subjects; which draws abundance of Foreigners, from all Countries, who come thither, either upon the account of Commerce, or to seek Protection. This concurrency of so many several sorts of People doth not only daily teach new Polity, but renders the Prince formidable to his neighbouring Potentates, who know his Kingdom to be so populous and the people so deeply engaged to their Sovereign.  
The Crown is successiv, 
The Crown hereditary.  yet during the minority of the Heir (which is at 15 years) the Uncle, or some Guardian nominated by the King, taketh place as Administrator: By this Praecedent also are all the Officers in the Kingdom regulated, that are successiv.   

CHAP. VIII. The Sieur van Muyden invited to the Exequys of the Princess. A stately Scaffold erected for the Solemnity of the day. A magnificent and sumptuous Altar Ornaments of the Corpse. The Train attending the Ceremony: Order of the same. Money thrown among the People. Stages erected for the Almosners. Artificial Fireworks. The vast Charges of this Preparation.  
ON the 23 of February, the Sieur van Muyden, Consul for the Company, was sent for, by two Interpreters, 
February 1650.  to wait upon the King; who invited him to attend the Ceremony of burning the Corpse of his sole legitimat Daughter. I went myself also to see the Exequys performed, 
FEBR. 1650.  but by the remissness of the Messengers, came too late to see the Train; for the Corpse was brought to the place, before we got thither; but yet came in time enough to get to the stage, which was erected for us. On the middle of the Parade before the palace, were erected 5 Towers; upon each Tower a poll, that which stood in the midst was 30 fathom high, the other 4 that stood in a quadrangular form, each 20 fathom. The Fabric of those Towers was very artificial: Round about under the Architraves, they were neatly painted with Foliage, raised with Gold, and depressed with Umber and burned Ivory. On the Stylobat were carved Heads of Leopards, Tigers and Panthers. Under the Projecture, Supporters in antic-work, and emblematical to that occasion; the Scima, or Cornish with close Leaves suitable to the Phris● and Architrave, but could not at the distance I was at, perceive whether it was carved or painted. Within the great Tower which stood in the middle, was a very costly Altar, covered with Gold, and set with Sapphirs and other stones, being about 6 foot high from the Ground. Upon this Altar was the Corpse of the Young Lady laid, after it had lay imbalmed about 6 Months within the Palace The Body was attired in a Royal Garb, with Gold chains, Bracelet and Collars of Gold, and fastened with Diamonds. She was set in a Co●fin of solid Gold, in which she sat upright, with her Hands conjoined, and her face looking upwards: upon her head was a Crow● of Gold, very richly set with stones. Then came all the Mandori● or, Grandees of the Nation, with their Ladies, attired in White, without any ornament, for White is their Mourning colour; they feigne● themselves sorrowful for the Dead, and passing by strowed th● Corpse, with Flowers and odorous Waters. When these Ceremonies were done, the Corpse was brought out of the Tower, and set upo● a Chariot of Triumph, richly gilded, and shown to the Grandees● the Empire, whereupon all the Ladies began to weep aloud, whic● was not altogether real, but feigned; every one emulating to sho● a greater appearance of Sorrow than the rest; which was with suc● earnestness, that it might have been heard all through the Tow● After the Chariot had stood there about 2 short hours, it was removed to another place, where the Body was to be burned; and w● followed by the Mandorins, and their Ladies, who went softly after In the first rank went the King's eldest son, aged about twenty Years, who was only brother to the Deceased, and was mounted upon a Young Elephant all in White: next him were two brethren of his, by another Queen, mounted also upon Elephants, on each side one: each of these had a long silk Scarf fastened to the Hearse, in their hand. On each side the Hearse were 14 of the King's Sons, with green twigs of palm in their Hands, who all the time went in a heavy posture, their eyes dejected to the Ground, framing a sad Countenance, and uttering many sighs and expressions of Sorrow. On each side of the way, by which the Hearse must pass (that was about 6 foot broad) were erected several stages, for the Mandorins of a meaner rank. These at the passing by of the Hearse, threw Oranges among the common people; in some of which were 
* Which is a piece of Money Valuing about 2s 8ds Sterling.  Ficols, and 
† Which is half a Ficol.  Mases. this occasioned such a throng of People, that several lay under foot, and 7 Persons trodden to death. When they were come to the Altar, the Corpse was taken down by the Mandorins, with Waits and Wind-Music, which made a melancholic noise; and was carried with great Solemnity to the Altar; where it was set down, and laid round with aromatic Woods, and Drugs, amongst which was poured many sorts of perfumes and odorous balsams. When this was done the Princes of the blood, and the Mandorins returned to the King's Palace; but the Ladies were enjoined by the Emperor to remain at the Altar and bewail the Dead, for two days longer; at which time the Body was to be burned: and accordingly they stayed there till the time was expired, striving, who could manifest the most sorrow; hoping so to obtain the greater favour from the Emperor. But the greatest folly I could observe among them was, that when any of them could not dissemble, or let down tears, they were whipped with thongs, by some persons, thereto appointed, till they wept indeed; and this was duly executed without having regard to their Persons. Near those Towers, was erected a stage, 
Presenic sent the Bonzi, for their good Service in praying for the Soul of the deceased.  covered with thick gilded paper, whereupon sat the Chief of the Bonzi, and a little lower sat the Priests of a lower degree and rank, of which there was a great number; these (like those under the Hierarchy of Rome) were employed to pour forth prayers for the Soul of the Deceased. Which when they had done by order of the King, there were several Gifts sent them which for the most part, consisted in Apparel, House-furniture and mechanical Implements, of every sort. At the going down of the Sun there were several Fireworks played off, which issued out of Twenty Turrets, covered with gilded paper. All these preparations, besides what was that day given to the Bonzi, and distributed among the poor, according to the relation given to the Heer van Muyden, by the King's Agent, amounted to 5000 Cattis of Siam Silver, which is about 66000 pound Sterl. besides the Images that were bestowed on the chief Temple, whereof two were of Gold, about 4 foot high, which also amounted to a great sum: for what Gold, Jewels, or other Gifts were in her life time presented her, by the King, or Mandorins, were expended upon these exequial Rites.   

CHAP. IX. The Body of the Princess burnt. A remarkable token, whereby, it was concluded that she was poisoned. The King's fury against all the Domestics of the Princess, who are committed to custody. The cruel Punishment of the suspected Parties. A strange wa● to find out the guilty. Elephants used as Executioners. Fifty men and Women executed in one day, some by Elephants, others buried in the Earth, to the Head, where they are suffered to starve. A Young Lady with her Brother taken and dispatched. Their Candour, and free resolvedness to die.  
TWo days after the Corpse were brought forth, the King went himself in person, and gave fire to the wood with a Torch, which was done with great Solemnity, and Music of all sorts, that all the time played very doleful Airs. The Chest of Gold, together with all the Costly Ornaments, wherewith she was attired, when she lay in state, were burned with the Corpse, and reduced to dust.  

An odd Passage.  We may not ommit to relate a very remarkable passage which happened about these Exequys; for when the King went to gather up the Ashes, which were to be put in a golden Urn, he found a piece of Flesh, about the bulk of a Young child's head, fresh and unconsumed. This seeing, he was mainly altered, and turning about to one of the Magis who stood at his left hand, Asked him; What his opinion was? and, What might be the reason that this gobbet of flesh remained unburned. The Sage judging it to be done by some Enchantment, durst not declare his opinion about it; but to satisfy the King, replied, That his Majesty could not but be sensible of the Cause, since nothing could lie occult from his searching Wisdom: the more in regard it was a thing so palpable and open. The King by the Saying of this Parasite, concluded with himself that she had been poisoned, cries out with great raging, At length I have discovered the certainty of what I ever had in suspicion: My Daughter is without doubt poisoned. Upon that in great discontent he went into his Mourning apartment whence he issued an Order for the sudden Apprehension of all the Ladies, that attended the Princess in her Life time, who were in obedience to his Royal Will immediately secured.  
On the day following divers others of the greatest rank were siezed and committed to Custody, who were wont to converse with the Princess, although they had not been in her presence for the space of a whole year.  
Shortly after it was my fortune to be Spectator to such a cruel Tragedy as ever I have seen elsewhere. The King being now possessed wthi Jealousy, and suspecting several to be factious in the matter, yet could not find out any certainty in the thing; he therefore to sift it out, who ●hose should be that were concerned in the deed, practised this cruel Stratagem and impious way of Trial. The king sent a Messenger to summon up some of the chief Nobility in the land to Court, where being come to give attendance, were shut up in Prison, till the Prison would not hold any more, so that he was fain to find a new place, where to commit those unhappy Gentlemen. When the principal Officers and Courtiers were taken into Security. The king not contented so, ●ent also for their Wives, and several Young Ladies, who were known ●o be familiar with the Princess some time before her death: these were part, that they might not have the benefit of Communication. also secured in a place When the Emperor had as many Persons in Custody, as he, or others that advised him suspected, he gave order to ●ake several Pitts in the ground about 20 foot square, one near another; which the Soldiers were commanded to fill with Charcoal, kindle and ●low it up with long Fans, such as the Slaves in Siam do fan their Lords ●nd Ladies with. When all was performed according to the Commandment of the king, they brought forth some of those Personages that were impeached with their hands tied behind their backs b● all the time guarded with a Body of Soldiers: and being come to● place, they stripped them naked and put their feet in warm Water, make them tender; after that, the Soldiers paired of the skin v●razours. Afterwards they were brought before certain Officers, ●minated by the King as Examinators for that day, and were assist● by the chief of the Bonzi, who insisted upon them to confess the Fa● but upon their steadfast denial, had the 
* Which is a kind of Curse like that in the Levitical Law, when the Womanis to drink the water of Jealousy  Rigoloza pronounced again them, and so transmitted to the Torments, who were forced ● run over the hot coals without their natural Shoes. So soon as th● were come through the fire their feet were visited; and if they v● blistered, it was concluded by the Bonzi, that they were guilty, 〈◊〉 so led away to the place appointed for them to be kept in, till all 〈◊〉 supposed Criminals were turned through the Furnace: but when t● Officers had done their visits as they were enjoined, they found ● but what were blistered, and consequently condemned as g● some there were on whom this impious Test was imposed, t● indeed with a strong resolution ran through, without receiving m● damage: yet many there were who fell down flat in the middle of ● Fire, where they expired their last, for (as we were afterwards formed) there was a strict charge given, as well to the Spectator's Officers, not to reach forth their hand to pull any person out, up● pain of Death. A Scene (I must confess) so sad as I have never see● yet, and hope I never shall. That Perillus was thrown into the bra● Bull, which he had presented to the Tyrant Phalaris, to punish s● as he was offended with, had good colour of Justice; but tha● many in innocency should be massacred upon bare suspicion, 〈◊〉 that with such unheard-of Cruelty, is in no wise justifiable. It● spectacle dismal enough, none can deny, to see a Ship rend up● the Rocks; and the distressed mariners Swimming upon masts● planks, to save their lives; but yet harder to see so many rare P●nages burned alive, and fried in their own blood: for that is fro● Divine hand, to which we owe our very Lives and Being: but t● the effects of a wretched Tyranny from our fellow-creatures, w● Justice itself had nothing to demand.  
't Verbranden en ombrengen van v●● voornaame Edelen in SLAM.  
This may seem to be a mean reason, for so great a piece of Ty●nny, but it was well known afterwards that the King had formerly a design to cut of the chief of the Mandarins, of whom he ●mself began to stand in awe, and therefore took an opportunity ●o do it under this specious pretence: and the better to effect it without mutiny or rebellion, he had newly levied an Army of 250000 ●en, and made as if he would denounce war against China.  
On the 28 of Febr. were 300 of the Domestics of the late Princess brought to the place of Execution, who were also led through the fire; but having passed through, were (I know not for wh● reason) set at liberty. Shortly after was the Youngest daughter o● the late King with all her Household, committed to Custody: and th● king as it appeared had a great suspicion of her, the more when ● was informed that whilst other Ladies at Court, were be wailing the Dead, she could hardly all the time restrain herself from laughing: but what made the Matter have a better hue, was, her complaining to the king how that her daughter (who was also the king Child) was had in contempt; and his eldest Daughter, in her● time promoted to great honour.  

MAR. 1650  On the first of March, was the said Princess brought fo● and a great number of Ladies; who were all led through the F● but (according to common fame) none but the Princess ● blistered on the feet. Hereupon she was secured with Silver Fe● and brought into a Dungeon, where none was permitted to ● Communication with her.  
The next day the said Princess was brought forth again into Palace, where the Mandorins were assembled in the Auditory soon as they began to make inquisition, upon threatening to pu● to torment, if she would not make an ample discovery of the Tr● she, whether out of Fear, or Glory, is uncertain, uttered these Wo● or to the same effect, If the King will promise upon his Royal word; ● so soon as I have exhibited the Cause of his Daughter's death, he will sp● execute me, without making, me a mocking-stock to the World, I w● promise upon the Honour of a dying Princess, to manifest the whole without further trouble. Upon that liberal saying, several of the Mandarins then present, who had a great honour for her R● Father, were moved to pity; and 'twas thought, that they w● have interceded to the King for pardon for her, if the present of the King had not kept them in stricter awe. However after fairest manner they could made report to the King; who promis● grant her request, and sent the Mandorins back, to take her into fu● examination. Being returned, they brought her the result o● Petition, and willed her to confess the Cause and Circumstant whereupon she declared in presence of them all, That she with Help of her Nurse were both guilty of the Fact, and that they had used ce● exorcisms therein, which was the reason, that that flesh was not combust as the rest. She added further, That her ignominious death did not concern her so much, as that her just Design should have no better issue; whereby the small remainder of her Stock should be reduced to their pristin state, and freed from the Slavery of so fierce a Tyrant. When she was further examined in some circumstantial things, She protested that it was not provided for the innocent Princess, but for the King himself. So soon as Report was made to the King how she had made a liberal Confession, and what it was, he commanded instantly that an Executioner should be sent for; who being come, he gave him order to cut a gobbet of flesh out of her Body, and force her to eat it. When the Executioner went to fulfil the King's command; the Lady suffered the flesh to be tore out with wonderful patience; but when he tendered it her to eat, she refused, crying out, O wretched Tyrant, thou mayst be my Executioner, but thou canst not conquer my noble mind. Know, that I defy thy Cruelty; and that the end of thy Shame- poison will speedily come, when the remaining Virtue of my Royal Race shall avenge themselves of thee, and thy Tygre-brood. With these and the like words she reviled the King, till by a second Charge sent to the Executioner from the Palace, she was hacked in pieces, and thrown into the River.  
The same day her only brother, aged 20 years, was brought to the place of Execution, who during all these showers of Cruelty, had feigned himself distraught, by which means, they told us he was excused.  
But whether he was guilty or not, it appeared so soon as he was mounted the stage, that he had his Wits about him: for he behaved himself with such candour and modesty, that some of the Mandarins could not forbear tears; and with a bitter Harangue so reviled the ●ing, and vindicated himself for what he suffered, that the Plebeïans were almost moved to an Insurrection; declaring himself more sorrowful for the fruitless attempt of his sister, than his own Death. So soon as he saw the Executioner come to him, he cried out, Innocent indeed I am, as was my Sister, but now Thou inhuman Tyrant, it is thy will it should be so, I scorn, although I were sure of enjoyment, to desire thy pardon; that thou shouldst not hope for the lest pity from the Hands of them that shall revenge my Blood in after times. With these and the like words he seemed to declare his Innocency, yet uttered some expressions which contradicted those Protestations, that probably were to only in spite of the King. 
MAR. 1650  Thus was the last of the former King's race extirpated, except one Daughter, which was not capable of doing any thing against the Interest of the present King.   

CHAP. X. The proud, and blasphemous Titles of the King of Siam. The great Preparations used to assuage the Waters of the Ganges.  
YOu have heard by what we have related in the former Chapter, with how much power and awe, the king of Siam rules. It will further appear how well he knows it, by the proud, swelling Title he assumes to himself; two of which were presented me by a Mandar●n and I hope will not seem impertinent to insert here; although the Reader may be pleased to take notice, that the Idiom of their Tongue is so barbarous, that it will hardly bear sense, when rendered; however we shall give it Word for Word.  THE Alliance written with letters of fine Gold being full of Godlike glory. The most Excellent, containi● all wise Sciences. The most happy, which is not in the Wo● among men. The Best and most Certain that is in Heave● Earth and Hell. The greatest Sweet, and friendly Ro● word. Whose powerfull-sounding Properties, and glorious Fame range through the World, as if the Dead we●● raised by a Godlike power, and wonderfully purged from Ghostly and Corporal Corruption. At this both Spiritu●● and Secular men admire with a special Joy, whereas ● Dignity may be herewith Compared. Proceeding from friendly, illustrious, inconquerable, most mighty and m● high Lord; and a Royal Crown of Gold, adorned with nine sorts of Precious Stones. The Greatest, Clearest and most Godlike Lord of unblameable Souls, The most Holy, seeing every where, and Protecting Sovereign of the City Judia, whose many Streets, and open Gates are thronged by Troops of Men. Which is the chief Metropolis of the whole World. The Royal Throne of the Earth that is adorned with nine sorts of Stones, and most pleasant Valleys. He who Guides the Rains of the World, and has a house more than the Gods, of fine Gold and of Precious Stones; they the Godlike Lords of Thrones of fine Gold, the White, Red and Round-tayled Elephant; which Excellent Creatures are the Chiefest of the nine sorts of Gods. To none hath the Divine Lord given, in whose hand is the victorious sword; who is like the fiery-Armed God of Battles, to the most Illustrious. 
The second is as as blasphemous as the first, though hardly swells so far out of Sense.  THE highest Paducco Syry Sultan, Nelmonam, welgaca, Nelmochadin Magiviitha, Jouken der eauten lillaula fylan, King of the whole world, who makes the Water rise and flow. A King that is like a God, and shines like the Sun at noon day. A King that gives a glance like the Moon when it is at full. Elected of God to be worthy as the North-star; being of the Race and offspring of the great Alexander; with a great Understanding, as a round Orb, that tumbles hither and thither, able to guests at the Depth of the great Sea. A King that hath amended all the Funerals of the departed Saints, and is as righteous as God, and of such power that all the World may come and shelter under his Wings. A King that doth right in all things, as the Kings of old have done. A King more liberal the all Kings. A King that hath many Mines of Gold that God hath lent him; who hath built Temples half Gold and half Brass, sitting upon a Throne of pure Gold, and of all sorts o● Precious stones. A King of the white Elephant, which Elephant is the king of all Elephants, efore whom many Thousands of other Elephants must bow, and fall upon the● knees. 
Lucifer  He whose eyes shine like the Morningstar A kin● that hath Elephants with four Teeth; Red, Purple and Pi● Elephants, ay, and a Buytenaques Elephant; for whic● God has given him many and divers sorts of Appart wrought with most fine Gold, 
Trappings  ennobled with many Precio● stones: and besides these, so many Elephants used in Battle, h●ving Harnesses of Iron, their teeth tipped with teel and the Harnesses laid o'er with shining Brass. A King that has ma● Hundred Horses, whose Trappings are wrought with fi● Gold, and adorned with Precious stones of every sort, that a● found in the Universal World, where the Sun shines, an● those shod with fine Gold. Besides so many Hundred Horses that are used in War, of every kind. 
Has the man got any Scotch Pownies?  A King who has all Emperors, Kings, Princes and Sovereigns in the whole World from the Rising to the Going down of the Sun, under Subjection; and such as can obtain his Favour are by him promoted to great Honour, but on the Contrary, such as revolt, he burns with fire. A King who can show the Power of God, and what ever God has made. 
And so by this time I hope you have heard enough of a King of Elephants and Horses (though not a Word of his Asses) in this Instrument called a Title: and thereby perceive the Pride and Folly of this unpolished Potentate, where we shall leave him and take a walk towards the Ganges,  
The River of Siam is a branch of the famous Ganges, 
The Ceremony used to assuage the River Ganges.  and ebbs and owes at the same time with that noble River. When it is at highest and ●ady to fall of itself, according to it's natural Recourse at a certain time of the Year, as doth also the Nile, the King imbarks himself in a Galley which is within and without so richly Gilded, that it seems to be all of massy Gold. Within the same is a Throne of solid Gold, upon which the King sits, having a Canopy richly set with Pearls, ●monds and other Precious Stones. About him sit the greatest of 〈◊〉 Mandorins, on Chairs suitable to their Quality; and on his left hand ●he Chief of the Bonzi, in his Hierarchical Garb. On the Galleries of this Galley, sit several Musicians; which are answered by the inferior Mandorins and Plebeïans, who are placed all along the Banks with Musical Instruments, and Flags of an infinite number. The Imperial Galley is followed with a Retinue of some Thousands of smaller Shipping and Yachts. When the King is come to the place where the Ceremony is usually performed, he steps out into a Prawe, where the High Priest delivers him a golden sword upon his knees. After the repetition of some formal words, he beats the Water three times, and commands it with a Godlike Authority to fall down, and so returns into the Galley: upon which all they that are on the Banks fa● down flat upon the ground and shout. And thus the blind People who have not the Benefit of Chronicle or Antiquity, and ignorant 〈◊〉 the course of Nature, the handmaid of God; do really take it for miracle, effected by their Pagan Sovereign.   

CHAP. XI. Departure from Siam. They take a Junk. The Cambodiers put in a Ship with rudder or sails. Arrival at Formosa. The Junk and all the men cast awa●▪ Description of Formosa, with an account of its Products, and the Nature of ● Inhabitants, as also their Houses, Habit and Customs.  
OUr Ship having now taken in her whole Carga, we had all o● to come aboard. Our Loading was most Bucks-hides, San●wood, and Amrack, which is a kind of Colour, used by the Iapone● in their Cabinet-work for Vernishing: and on the 12 of April we set S● directing our Course for Tojovan or Formosa.  

APRIL. 1650  About the Pracel banks we descried a junk, making toward us full Sail, having Dutch Colours aloft, which made us suspect to be a Pirate: and thereupon our master resolved to throw s● Goods overboard, and put himself in a Fighting-Posture. But ● we came nearer to the said Junk we saw that it was a Merchant-● and not so well man'd and mounted as we. 
A Junk taken, and made Prize.  Coming to hail him Commander bade him come aboard and show his Pass; but he 〈◊〉 answer that his Champan was in pieces and unfit to put out: whereup the Commander put forth the Shallop well man'd and armed, to aboard him and demand his Pass, but found that he had none, b● a Cambodier, and loaden with contrabanded Goods, we there took him as Prize. His Loading did also mostly consist in H● Hides, 
The tender mercies of the wicked are cruel.  Sanders and Amrak, as ours did: The men aboard her ● mostly Cambodiers and Chineeses, which Capt. Fair (for that was Commanders name) put all into the Champan, that notwithstand● their evasion was not leaky, allowing them neither Sail nor R●der; so that without all controversy they were lost, it being then leagues from any coast; nor could we ever hear what became of the●  
On the 10 th'. of May we arrived safely at the Island of Formosa, 
MAY 1650  and anchored before the Fort Zelandia, where Peter over't Water was then Governor. As we sailed in at the Bay, we were surprised with a great Wind; insomuch that the Prize we had taken ran upon a seat of Rocks, which almost conjoin, or as it were, embrace the Bay, like that at Rhodes, in the Levant, made by Art, on which was erected the Image of Apollo: so that these are with a gale of Wind, somewhat stiffer than ordinary almost unavoidable. The Junk broke all in pieces, and the men were all lost, save 3 Hollanders, who saved themselves upon Planks; amongst those that were lost were 7 Hollanders, the rest Chineezes, being about 20 in number.  
The Island Formosa lies almost directly under the Tropic of Cancer; ●its nombril or Centre being exactly 23 degr. Northern latitude, ●eaching in a stretch from its southern Cape, which is in 21 degr. to the ●weel or Northern Promontory, in 25; and is computed to be about 130 Dutch Leagues in circumference, facing the coast of Fokien and ●ana Round about this Island are taken abundance of Fish, especially Harders, which are somewhat bigger than a Haddock. This ●ish they salt like Cod, and send it for China, where it is had in great ●eem. The Row of this fish is also held for a great delicacy among ● Chineezes when pickled, being red, and lies close and round in thin skin, which naturally grows about it. The Chineezes used heretofore to give the Tenth Fish to the Company, for their Liberty to ●sh on the Coasts of this Island.  
Formosa is a very fruitful Island, but lies untilled; 
Fruitfulness of Formosa  the Inhabitants ●ng for the most part a lazy People, not much unlike the Spaniards, ●er willing to starve than work. The most fruitful part is at present ●der the Jurisdiction of the King of Midag. It abounds with Rice, ●heat, Barley, Kaylang, Masquinades, as also Ginger and Sugar. ●ere are many sorts of Trees, and Fruit in great abundance, as, O●anges, Lemmons, Citrons, Pomegranates, Guigavas, Perang, and ●ther Fruits, not known in Europe; and some only Proper to this Isle, which I could never see either in Europe, Asia, or Africa, as Moupelloes and Crambrods'. Melons, or Muskmelons, are here so plentiful and delicious; that I have been cloyed barely with looking at them when they were cut up; besides Water-milions and Pompions which are also of a very good taste and juicy. They have besides many kinds of Plants and Herbs, as CABBAGE, Hartichoaks, etc. Sever● rich and medicinal Roots and Seeds, as Ananasses, China-Rock Potatoes (not much unlike ours) Ubes, Kadiang and Fakkafocas. Kadj● is a little green seed almost like that of Coriander, which they boil an● pickle for a Sauce for fresh Fish; and gives it an admirable good reli● Fokkafokas has the Shape of a Pear, or Quince, but 3 times as big, an● grows near the ground like a Pompion: above it is smooth like gl● and below of a purple and whitish colour: this they boil with Be● and Pork, as we do Turnips in Holland. There are some sheep in ● Island, 
Great store of cattle.  but not very many. Hearts and Roes there are abundance sometimes 2 or 3 Thousand in a Flock together, Wild-goats ● Swine which are very terrible and noxious to Travellers that go a● or unarmed, some they have also tame. Beasts of Prey do much an● the Inhabitants that they dare not adventure themselves far with Land, as, Tigers, Leopards, Bears, etc. Apes and Monkeys t● have, which are generally little. There is a certain Creature on ● Island which the Hollanders call, Den Duyvel van TAJO● that is, The Devil of Formosa. Being about 2 foot long, and 5 in broad upon the back, with scales all over the body; it has four with sharp claws, a sharp long head, and a tail thick at the r● and smaller towards the end, like a Crocodil. This little beast feeds ● upon Pismires, which he catches by laying his Tongue upon a ● where they come to feed upon a slimy matter, that runs out o● mouth, and that holds them so fast that they cannot get off ag● When he thinks that he has enough, he draws in his tongue and vours them. It cannot do any harm unless to the Ants, which a● natural food, but if he see a man come towards him, either runs the Earth, or rolls himself in, like a Hedgehog: so that to call Devil seems a great improperty. This Great Description of a ● Creature, we thought not altogether impertinent, because it Creature proper only to this Island. Formosa affords all kinds of F● which other Islands in the East have, 
Venomous Creatures a great annoyance.  except Parrots. And were it● for the great annoyance of Serpents, Scorpions, Millipedes, Lizza● and other vermin, it were a very delightsom Land, being in a t●rable good Climate, and blessed with a most wholesome Air.  
As to the Frame and Stature of the Natives, we cannot give any general Description, since those vary according to the pl● they inhabit. Their men are mostly well bodied and lusty, especially those in the Valleys, and Champaign Country; but those that keep themselves in the Hilly part of the Island, not so big of stature. Their Women are but short in Comparison of the Men, yet are staring beauties; having a Full face, great Eyes, a flat Nose, 
Formosa Beauties.  long Ears with breasts hanging down like a flitch of Bacon, and would have handsome beards too, if they did not pull up the hair by the roots. The ●ps of their ears they bore through, and screw them flat with a horn, made for the purpose, which they think stands wondrous neat. Finally, I hold it uncertain whether this Island has had the name Formosa, seriously from the Land it's self, or Ironically from the monstrous People that Inhabit it.  
During the time that I was at Formosa, I heard often of Men with Tails: to which I never gave much heed, looking upon it as fabulous. Yet I will assure the Reader by all lawful asseverations, that I found ● truth. For it happened that a Formosan of the South-Countrey was apprehended for an inhuman Murder, committed upon a Clergy ●an. After the matter was examined and the Party pronounced guilty, he received Sentence to be burned. The day of Execution being ●ome; the Murderer was brought forth, and tied to a pale; As soon as his clothes were stripped off, we saw his Tail, which was about a foot long, and all grown over with Hair; some of my acquaintance out of their curiosity, went to see him, before he was executed, having heard that he had a Tail, and learned from him, that all, or most, of the South Inhabitants had Tails. But as to the certainty of ●hat, I can not say much, for that, not understanding his Dialect, ●ey might be mistaken; only of this I solemnly aver that I am an ●e-wittness to it, and would be loath, to impose it upon any man's belief if it were not truly so.  
Upon Festival days when the Formosans go to present themselves before their Idols they hang great round boards almost like Trenchers to their ears, which are artificially painted: others hang Shells full of Small holes, which loll over their breasts: but upon other days they let their ears be naked, and without any ornament at all.  
Their Hair is jet-black and long: some of them wear it as we do in Europe; others tie it up above the crown of the head, after the old China fashion, or plated. Their complexion is of a Swarthy yellow, or between a yellow and black; but those of Kabelang look more white and pale. The Women of Midag, Soeten Now, and Lamea are of ● brown-yellow complexion. They are generally of a subtle and acute wit, endued with a good memory, and tractable enough to learn any Science; but beyond all other Indians flexible to Christianity.  

The Habit of the Formosans.  In the Summertime they are attired only with a cotton cloth, wide about the shoulders like a sheet, and tied by two Corners athwart the breast: It is also girded about the middle, and so hangs down to the calf of the leg. Their shoes, which are rarely worn among them, are made of Goatskins, fastened above the foot with thongs. But in the Winter, they wear Garments of Furs, as Skins of Tigers Leopards, Bears and Apes. Those of Soulang were formerly apparelled as Europeans; but all the rest as Chineezes. Before the first coming of the Spaniards into that Island, the Natives were all naked like as now, those that inhabit the Hill-countrey, which wear only cloth about their middle.  
The Habit of the Women doth not vary much from that of the Men, only with this distinction, that their Robes are wrapped abou● their legs and made fast; and sometimes an upper coat which come only to the knees: About their head they wear a black Towel knott● before, which looks like two Horns. Every woman has a Pig which follows her like a dog.  
The Men have sometimes their back, breast, and arms painted with a kind of colour which never goes out so long as they live. Abou● their necks they wear Glass-beads, and Bracelets about their arm● Others have great iron hoops, which reach from the wrist of t● hand to the elbow, having such small crevices where they ope● that it seems a wonder how they get them put upon their arm● About their legs they wear a string of white shells, neatly hung a● set in order, that at a small distance it would be taken for Lace.  
The Men of Tokkadekol wear a long Reed, which is made fast ● their Girdle behind, and comes bending over their head; to which they hang a Silk Pendent (or streamer) about 2 palms broad, an● 20 long. Upon Festival days they adorn their Heads with the feather of a Cock, and hang Bears-tails at their Legs and arms.  
They have no Trades nor Mechanics among them, but ever● man among them makes what he has occasion for himself. When they he down to sleep, they only take two Hearts hides, the one serving for a Bed, and the other for a Coverlet. They are excellent at swimming, and use the Bow well. But above all other faculties surpass any that ever I have seen at running; no horse being able to hold with them for a stretch of 6 or 8 leagues together: and when they run, have in each hand a tinkling instrument, with which they ever now and then hit the iron hoop about their arm, to encourage them forward.  
They are wholly unskilled in Navigation, having no other Shipping than a sort of Canoe, that is made out of a hollow tree, with which they go a fishing. This with Hunting is all the employ they follow to sustain themselves. But Agriculture, as I said before, is but little exercised, partly out of their slothful inclinations, and partly out of fear of the Enemy, they being continually at Wars amongst themselves, and hate nothing worse than Peace.   

CHAP. XII. The Author departs from Formosa. His arrival at Japon. The Description of Nanguesaque. The Condition of the Town. A dreadful fire at Nanguesaque. The Stature, Nature, Habits, and Customs of the Japoneezes. Departure from Japon. Arrival at Formosa the second time. Their return to Siam, where they take in Elephants. The Author beat with a ropes end at the Mainmast, and why. His return for Holland, and End of the first Voyage.  
WHen we had taken in our loading at Formosa, I left the Black-Bear, and was put aboard a Flyboat called, The Lady, which was bound for japon, and set sail on the 15 of july following.  
On the 10 th'. of August we arrived at japon, where according to the manner, we signified our Arrival. Immediately upon notice given came several Officers aboard, who took away our Rudder, Sails and Ammonition. That done they unloaded our Ship themselves, not suffering us to put to our hand to help them.  
The name of the Haven was Nanguesaque, 
Nanguesaque (or Nanguesaky as some call it) described.  a Town which the Portugueezes had built out of the Water, but upon their being rooted out of this Island was granted to the Dutch, who till their coming hither, had their Residence and Magazine at Firando. The Dutch Lodge is upon a small Island, severed from the City by a wate● about 40 foot broad, having a Drawbridge, which only is let dow● from Sun to Sun. The Island is fortified with Pallizadoes, and that ● strong, that they think themselves secure enough from any unwarrantable violence. The Magazine of the Company is just within th● Gates, and about the middle stands the house of the Precedent which is a very large and sumptuous Building. Besides that there are several other Houses and Shops which make so many Streets and Courts. On that side next to the Sea stands another Gate, which goe● down with great and broad steps, built for the receiving in of Goo● which come by water. This is a very famous Place for Merchandise of all kinds, but the chief Commodities they deal in here, are Am● Steel Buck and Kaymans' Hides, Silk both raw and wrought, Velvet, Damask, Satins, Cotton, Mercury, Quicksilver, Verdi-gree● Camphir, Wax, Allome, Pepper, Ivory, and Furs.  
After we had been three days at Nanguesaque, and all our Carg● unloaded by the japoneezes: they shut our Hold up, and sealed ● with the Emperor's Signet. Which done the Officers went a shoa● and sent us 6 Balis of Sakky, a Drink they make of Rice, which is ve● pleasant, yet heady and strong. After our Ships-folk had got a little i● their heads, they put out our Colours; but while they were in th● height of their mirth, 
An Orcane.  there rose a blustering wind, after whic● followed a mighty Hurricane. Upon that our Courage was sufficiently allayed, for both our Cables broke, and the Ship was tossed mountains high, we looking for no other all the time than death. The Shi● De Vreede was like a little Boat upon the top of every surge, and ● last thrown upon the Strand where she lay dry: but all her Bow w● bilged, her Head broke, and her Hold full of Sand and Water. Our u● perworks were sadly battered, and the masts brought by the board. Th● Black Bear and another great Ship lying both with out the head, we● so shattered, that they were brought up by the japoneezes as Wracks Besides this great loss which the Company sustained in the Shipping were also most of the Wares in the Magazine damnified by the Sea which beat over the Walls. The Town also suffered much by the high wind, they not expecting such a Tempest, at that time of th● year. When it had continued about half an hour or more, the Heaven ● began to clear, and we to get courage, but durst not fall to ● king again, for fear of another bout.  
Nanguesaque lies in 33 degr. 15 min. northerly latitude in a very pleasant Landship and is both very great and populous; 
Situation of Nanguesaq.  but like most of the Towns of japon lies without walls. It is seated upon a very commodious Bay, or Road, fit to receive Ships of the greatest burden. It has a very magnificent prospect from Seaward, having an ●n infinite number of Towers, Temples and Spacious Palaces. 
● Their Houses.  The Houses are mostly built of Wood, for the Ground is weak and frequently subject to Earthquakes, so that they cannot use ● one. But the poorer sort have little Cottages made of Twigs and plastered over with Clay, as in Brabant, Germany and other Country's. They are Covered with Planks which shoot far out over the walls like Penthouse, to shelter them from Sun and Rain. They have upon ●uch house several Tubs with water, which is kept in case of fire, to ●hich such buildings are liable. And certainly were it not for the great ●fit of the water running through the Town in Ditches, as it does almost Towns in Holland: it would be suddenly reduced to ashes and ●r this reason have they built several Houses of Stone where to secure ●eir Goods upon such occasions. The Houses of this City are uni●m, and the streets regular, there being 88 Streets, each 400 foot ●g, which are are all fenced off with Palizadoes at the end, and Lanterns set up. Here they have also their watch-houses, and none are suffered to pass by night; no not to fetch either Doctor or Midwife, without a Pass from the Governor. This Watch is set all ways at 10 a ●ck, after which hour few people are seen upon the streets. This ● good means to prevent Mutiny and Theft, but is a great incon●ence if Fire do happen to break out; for no street or Ward can ●ave the Assistance of another in such case: besides the great danger ●hat the People themselves are in, being sometimes so narrowly penned ●p. An Instance of this happened in the year 1646, when a dreadful fire happened in a house where several Dutch had their lodging, which on a sudden had consumed a great part of the Street and several Houses on both sides, burnt down to the Ground. The Dutch then ●eing themselves in such peril, choosed rather to hazard the effects ●f the Governors' displeasure for that time, than to be roasted alive, ●roke up the Fence and saved themselves.  
The japoneezes are reasonable fair of complexion, but a little me● swarthy than the Europeans. 
The Form Nature, Habit and customs of the Japoneezes.  The ordinary Habit of the Man is ● much distinguishad from that of the Woman. They go all w● long Robes thrown carelessly about their body, and tied round t● middle with a Surcingle. The Ladies of the best Quality, wear garment of cloth of Gold and Silver, and that very richly embroidered: Their Hair is neatly adorned with gems and preci● stones. The men are robust and very personable; their Heads so●thing bigger than is duly analogical with their Bodies. T● Women are but slender, yet let their Body grow as it will, wearing always a loose Garment, only their feet they screw ● pinch as much as they can to make them little, which they th● handsome: So that when they are come to their full growth, have like Children of 5 or 6 years old. The japoneezes are in gener● very hardy people, and can endure any extremity of Heat or ● Hunger or Thirst to a miracle. This they seem to come to a hardy usage when they are young; for they always bathe ● Infant's in cold weather in Rivers, and sometimes plunge ● over head and ears in Snow. They are excellent Warrious, are well acquainted with Fire-arms; as also with the Longbow Javelin. They are grown famous in all the East, for expert A●rers, and temper Steel better than the Chineezes, which far excee● Europeans. Their Swords are so well tempered that I have struck one through an Iron pin, of half an inch thick, without the lest ● of damage to the edge. They follow Hunting much, which ● principal Trade and Pastime there in use, and prefer Ve● before any other dainty whatever. In their entertainments, are very open and liberal, 
Jannuary 1651  and use Ten for a Caress, whi● far better than that which is exported abroad, and prepared a different manner: but they refuse to impart it to Christians, w● I held somewhat strange, in regard, that the more it is use other Country's the greater is their advantage, seeing that have better in this Island than any where else in the World.  
When we had done our Negotiation at japon, we set Sail for Barnes directing our Course first for Formosa, and set Sail the 30 th'. of Deces with a hard Wind, and a Northerly 
* That is, a Wind which blows from one point for certain months together, called also Monson.  Mousson; so that we 〈◊〉 Formosa in 10 days Sailing; and on the 9 th'. of january following a● ●at night cast anchor before the Fort Zeelandia. Upon our arrival ●e I was put aboard the Post horse, which was bound for Siam, where arrived on the 22 th'. of january, and there took in the Sieur Van der ●yden, Consul for the Company at India; who was to go for Batavia. Here we took in 8 young Elephants, with Provender, which was ●mit and Sugar-cane, as also a certain quantity of Rice. Here I may 〈◊〉 ommit a certain passage, which (though unadvisedly done) 〈◊〉 almost cost me my neck. About noon when the dinner was ●dy, I went to the Cook for a bowl of hot broth, which having ●t I came to bring it to 2 of my Comrades, and passing by the Hold, ●e of the Elephants wound me about the legs with his Trunk (or ●nout) that I came tumbling down, Plater and all, which being ●lding hot, fell upon the Elephants back, and made him to roar out ●d stamp, that the Ship tumbled and shaked again, this so amazed 〈◊〉 Commander that he came running out of his Cabin to know what 〈◊〉 the matter. Here I was in a great straight fearing to cry out, being ●sible that he was a choleric man, and yet durst not stay below for ● Elephant, who if he could have come at me would have trodden me as flat as a Flounder: but considering with myself that the ●●tain would assuredly come to hear of it, one time or another, and 〈◊〉 stayed long I was sure this beast of vengeance would send me to ● Grandsire. I cried out and the Commander in all hast sent one ●o pull me up. So soon as they had got me upon the Deck, he gave ●der to tie me to the mast, and commanded a fellow to lick me ●ily with a ropes end.  
On the 15 of February we set Sail for Batavia, 
February 1651 The Author dismissed. His return for Holland.  where I was discharged ●y Service, and permitted to go for Holland: and in order thereto ●nt aboard the Ship Zelandia, which was then almost ready to set ●. On the 26 we set out, having a good Wind, and a fine serene ●t. Within a few days we sailed through the Straits of Sunda; and ●ence set our course for S. Helena.  
On the 21 of April we got sight of Saint Helena, where we came safe ●to the Harbour, being 7 Sail in all. As soon as we were arrived, 
Arrival at St. Helena.  ●e went up into the Island to Hunt, fish and range the Woods for oranges, Lemons and other Fruits.  
Having now refreshed ourselves sufficiently, 
May.  and all things in a readiness we set sail in order to the pursuit of our Voyage, 
The end of the first Voyage.  and ma● Land on the 10 th'. of August, where we bartered with such Goods ● we had aboard, for Oxen, Sheep, and other necessaries: and ● forwards for Holland, where by God's gracious Conduct we arrived o● the first of September 1651, and put in at Goeree.    

THE SECOND VOYAGE of JOHN STRUYS.  

CHAP. I. An account of the Authors undertaking his Second Voyage. A great Sea Storm. His arrival at Yarmouth, and at Leghorn, with a Description of that Town; as also of Pica and Florence, and lastly of Bologne.  
BEing now safely arrived in my Country, after a long and tedious Voyage, which nevertheless by the Goodness of Almighty GOD, was not without some satisfaction for what was passed; yet finding myself in a State little better than before, and at a loss for Employment, I was brought into a melancholic passion. After I had spent some time at Amsterdam, in waiting for an opportunity to make another Voyage, and not hearing of any, suitable to my mind and capacity, I resolved to go for Durgerdam, to see what entertainment I should find at home; and pursuant to that my intention went to the Boat, where I casually met with one Capt. Ketel of Durgerdam, a person with whom I was formerly acquainted. After he had congratulated my happy return, asked me, What course I was bound to take? I told him, that I had a desire to undertake a new Voyage, but I could not meet with an opportunity to Ship myself upon any considerable Terms. Well (said he) upon what Terms would you go? I replied, For Sailmaker. That occurs very well, quoth he, for I have been enquiring for one, and we had already determined to go this Voyage without one: And if you like to go with us, 
DEC. 1655  I will be as civil to you as I may. This answer of his was no small matter of comfort to me, being then, as I have already said, destitute of Service. The Captain brought me ashore, and in a Victualling-House agreed with me, when he had almost made me tipsy with Strongwaters, and so got me aboard the Passage-boat, where I lay and slept that whole night and the next day, till we arrived at the Texel, where the Ship lay at anchor. When I awaked I began to look about me, not knowing where I was, at first I thought I was in my Lodging at Amsterdam, but perceiving the Vessel tumble and toss too and again, I concluded that I was still aboard the East-India man. Whilst I was in this quandary the Captain comes down to me which unriddled the doubt. When I bethought myself what I had done, I grew very uneasy and displeased at myself, for my inconsiderate and unadvised Actions: however the Captain gave me fair words, and assopiated the Quarrel between Me and Myself.  
On the 20 of December 1655 I Shipped myself aboard the Flyboat, called Haet Huys te Gennip, which was bound first for Yarmouth, where she was to take in Red-herring.  
On the 14 of Decemb. we left the Texel, and on the 20 th'. got Yarmouth Roads, where we met with a contrary Wind, which blew so hard that we could carry no Sail, but were fain to let all drive, and trust to the mercy of GOD. This dured for the space of 12 Watches, at which time we made the Texel; and to our great happiness had a Pilot aboard, that was intended for. Yarmouth who brought us safe in at the Spaniards got: for it was impossible for us to keep off at Sea, the Ship being so full of Sand, that we could not stir the Pump: and before we made land, found that we had 7 foot Water in the Hold, so that had we not luckily put in there then, the Ship had not held out one Watch longer. When by the Grace of God, and Diligence of the Pilot we had got in there, we unloaded the Ship, stopped the leaks, and supplied the defects of our equippage. and,  

January 1656  On the 28 of Decemb. we set Sail, having a brave Wind, and clear weather; and on New-year's day arrived safe at Yarmouth.  
On the 15 of January we weighed anchor, and left Yarmouth, having taken in our intended Loading, and directed our course for the Straits of Gibraltar.  
On the 2 of February we entered the Straits, 
FEB. 1656.  and on the 10 th'. got Leghorn. When we lay at anchor here, there happened a misunderstanding between Mr. Ketel and myself, about a trifling business, which brought us both without the bounds of Moderation; for proceeding from Words to Blows, we were at last so deeply engaged that we both tumbled over board. Our Master was so kind as to let me climb up but when I came upon Deck put me in Irons, that seeing our courage was not yet cooled in the Sea, he had that one mean to keep us asunder. In the mean while some had taken opportunity to pillage my chest, and borrow 116 Ducatoons: but I could never be so happy as to learn who was my Creditor: so that I had but a small portion left me, with which I purposed to go by land to Venice.  
Leghorn is so well known of all Gentlemen and Mariners that have seen Italy, that it may seem needless to describe it. Nevertheless since it is a part of my Province, to take notice of such Towns as are in any regard eminent and famous, I shall not ommit to say something briefly of it.  
This City which is one of the chief Havens in renowned Italy, was by Francis and Ferdinand, great Dukes of Tuscany upon consideration of its commodious site raised from a mean village to a great Emporium. The said Dukes fortified it with a stone wall, since which time it was gradually advanced by the encouragement of Trade; and is at present strengthened with 5 Bulwarks and 2 Citadels, or Forts the one whereof commands the Haven, and the other secures the Town on the Land side, towards Pisa, which is furnished with 60 great Guns. About 6 English miles from the City is a Beacon for direction of Mariners by night, there being many Rocks toward the South that are often the occasion of Shipwreck, and is therefore called Malhora. These Rocks do cause impetuous break of the Sea, which yet render the entrance of the Haven more free and secure. So that Ships and Galleys may ride safely at anchor in this Road. The City on the outside appears more magnificent than it is indeed inwardly: The Frontispieces, as well of Private as Public Buildings being plastered, upon which are painted Sea-fights, Histories and Landschap. In the middle of the Town is a stately Market place and an Exchange, where (as at other Places) Merchants meet and negotiate their Affairs. Corn, Flesh, Fish and other necessaries are here very good and cheap, which occasions almost all that are bound farther up to put in there for Refreshment. On a Corner Stand four statues in brass, representing the Father and 3 Sons, who attempted to row away a Galley, belonging to the Duke of Tuscany; and plied so strongly that the rest of the Galleys, had enough to do to overtake them, and were ready to yield it for lost. These 4 men were Moors, and for that notable Essay, are recorded with their Images in metal which are set one against another, with their Hands behind their back.  
Leaving Leghorn I set forward for Pisa: but before I was got half way, was assailed with 4 Highway men, who were well mounted and armed: two whereof alighted, and clapped their Pistols to my breast, bidding me deliver my money. In the mean while they fell a searching of my pockets and breeches, but not finding my money, which I had stitched up in the lining of my Coat, they gave me 2 bunches of Grapes, and road away.  

Arrival at Pisa.  On the 22 of February I came into Pisa, where I took up my lodging for that night, and the next day went to take a view of the Town. It is seated at the foot of a great Hill, about 8 leagues from the Sea, between two Rivers Ausere and Arno: and seems to be of 
* Pisa, vel ut apud Ptolomae 'em Pissa, teste Strabone lib. 5. Tusciae oppidum, inter Arnum & Auserem amnes, à Pisaeis, conditum, Elidis populis, qui Nestorem ad Ilium seculi in reditu tempestate disjecti, alii quidem Metap ontum, alii littus Tyrrhenum ●enuerunt, ubi a nomine relictae patriae Pisas condiderunt.  ancient Standing. It was made an University (as some write) about the year 1339 but begins to grow out of Esteem till restored by Cosmo di Medicis Duke of Florence, and afterward by Laurence his Nephew; to wh●m Vollaterran and Machiavelli ascribe the Founding. There are here several fair Churches; that dedicate to Saint john is a very stately building, and renowned beyond any other Church in Italy, for it's costly Tower which is of admirable rare Workmanship. The Churchyard, otherwise called Campo Sancto, is visited by many strangers, which was made at that time, when Frederic Barbarossa went to Wars against the Infidels in the Holy Land: to which Expedition those of Pisa assisted him with 50 Galleys. But the said Frederic Barbarossa being casually drowned, the Galleys returned back again, all freighted with Earth, of which they say the Churchyard is made.  
On the 23 towards night I left Pisa, and went to Florence; Between which two Towns is the most delectable Fields and Valleys, that ever I have seen, either before or since, insomuch that I thought my Journey neither long nor irksome, though on foot.  
On the 26 I entered Florence, which is seated in a pleasant Valley' and divided by the River Arno into two parts, which is the same River that runs by Pisa. On the West it hath the Champaign land which is admirably delightful: on the East the Country is Hilly, and stored with abundance of Fruit-trees, and on some part it is fortified with the Appenin Hills. This City is reckoned about 7 miles in compass, and enjoys a subtle and wholesome Air, which renders the Natives and Inhabitants more acute and of a sharper Genius than those that Inhabit, or are born in places of a grosser: The City which is divided by the River, is again united by four stately Bridges. which so beautify the Town that perhaps gave Charles the Archduke occasion to say, that this was a City only to be seen on holidays. The fertile Hills and rich Valleys wherewith it is environed, afford the Inhabitants plenty of all necessaries. Here is the Court and Residence of the Duke: The Palace being one of the most magnificent in all Italy, yet far more spacious and splendid within than without: but to recount the spacious Halls, Pompous Antichambre, Marble Statues and Pictures in the Galleries, with all its Appendencies, were an endless labour. Right over against the Palace is a Lifeguard, consisting of a hundred Germans. Before the Palace is also a very stately Fountain, adorned with huge Statues both of Marble and Brass, out of which springs Water, being all in emblematical representations. Upon the Mercato Novo is a very sumptuous Building in which the Citizens, meet and treat about the affairs of Merchandise. The Palace of the Medici is a stupendious Fabric, and for artificial carved works, aswell in Wood as Stone, and Pictures of the most eminent Italian Masters, seems to emulate the famous Vatican. Besides these are many other inferior Palaces, Bublic Puildings, Churches, Chapels and very spacious Cloisters, all which would take up some months to make an exact survey of. In many streets are Galleries or Piazzas, (as in Covent Garden,) where one may walk to avoid either Sun or Rain. Here are also many Houses built for Charitable uses, where the Sick are relieved with what they stand in need of; and every one of those Houses kept very neat and clean, especially the Hospital adjoining to the Church Alla Nunciata. Yet above the many famous Structures which grace Florence, the House of Prattelino outbraves them all, which was built by Francis de Medicis. The first you come at is the Palace, which is raised upon a square Fund, or Platform, which entering, you have at first view four Chambers that are opposite to one another, and stand also in quadrangular form, so that the 4 quarters are again subdivided each into 4 less, which make 16 Apartments. In one of these stand 2 costly Beds, one for the Duke, and the other for the Duchess. The rest of the Chambers are hanged with Tapestry, and some with Cloth of Gold, unspeakably rich; and illustrated with artificial and costly Statues, which are set in convenient Places thereto ordained. In like manner when we went up another story, we found 16 Chambers more, parallel with the Platform of the former. In every one of these was a stately bed, the meanest whereof is computed to have cost more than a Thousand Crowns. Coming out of the Palace you come alla Grotta, which is a fair Arch having therein a Fountain, that seems rather to be Natural than performed by Art. Round about the Fountain are Snakes, Adders, Lizzards and other Serpents, so artificially made in Brass that they might be taken for Living. On each Pillar stand Organs, which are moved by the force of Water, in such manner, that they make a most lovely and sweet Harmony. The Walls are in several places so thick set with Gems, Coral and other things of value, that they cannot be perceived. The rest is set with Marble. About the middle stand fair Alabaster Tables, to which if you draw near, the Water rises from under your feet, and flies all over your head and body, but indeavoring to shun it, you are again saluted after the same manner from another place. On the other side is another called Grotta Sibylla, which is also very costly, and set out with many fair Statues of Marble and Alabastre, richly adorned with Coral, where are also curious Water-works, none ever coming there but is wet with those subterranean Showers. On your right hand is the Bath of the Prince, which is under full of holes, through which the warmth can come to cause Sweat. Besides these there is a third Arch, which is for the Heat in Summer, whither the Duke and his Household retire to refrigerate themselves. In this Arch, is a fair large Table of Alabaster, and at each end several Holes, in which they set their wine to cool. There is belonging to this House a pleasant Garden, wherein are many Springs and Ponds: and every rare and choice Tree that will like in that Clime. Behind this Garden is a Park, full of strange Birds and Beasts, and therein a stately and delightsom Arbour where the Duke frequently dines in the Summer season, and from whence he can view both his Palaces, the one within the City and the other without. Right over this aforesaid Garden is yet another, in the middle whereof is a Chapel, where the Duke for the most part goes to Mass, and Vespers. This Chapel is built round, after the manner of the Heathenish Temples of old, planted round with Cypress trees, and has all its inner works of that Wood Near to that stands an Image of 24 foot high, which will represent Neptune, or Thetis, made of White marble, from whence all the Waters in the Fountains have their Rise: upon which if a man stands he hears a wonderful murmuring and buzzing of Water from below.  
This City is a place of great Traffic and Commerce, especially in Silks and Velvets, of which I saw many rich shops upon the Ponte Pecchio, or Old Bridge. The Florentines themselves are very able and skilful in the Affairs of Merchandise, and very little Traffic done in Italy wherein they have not an interest; so that Pope Clement VI called them the fifth Element. Besides their domestic and exotic Trade, they have given encouragement to, and bred up many, ingenious and famous Masters in Architecture, Painting, Carving and other Practical Sciences and Arts, and have for a perpetual memory and Gratitude so many stately Palaces, Churches, Pictures and Statues left them to Posterity. This City is also very Courtly in respect of its Situation, through which all Ambassadors and Ministers of State from foreign Potentates must pass, intending for the Court of Rome, or signory of Venice. It is much frequented, visited and likewise inhabited by many Private Gentlemen, who spend their Estates here, and is a choice place to live in as well for Artificial as natural Delights, for such as have an Estate to bear it out with. However, I had little reason to complain of bad measure during the few days I stayed there. For meeting accidentally with a Monk, 
A Christian Monk.  who seeing me to be a Hollander, did not only caress me all the time in such manner that I needed not pay any thing either for Lodging or Diet, but also showed me all what was remarkable about the City. This Monk understanding that I was short of Moneys, and intended for Venice, procured me 4 Rixdollars, which was as much as I had occasion for, to bear my Charges thither. 
Departure from Florence   
On the 1st. of March I left Florence, and took my leave of the Monk, 
JAN. 1656.  whom I thanked for his great Favour and Civility, which he had so signally manifested to me a stranger, on such an extreme and emergent occasion: and tending towards Bologne, I was fain to climb over a high steep Mountain, and in the valley found the City.  
Bologne lies about 44 degr. being a Town of small circumference, yet wealthy and full of Inhabitants. The form of the City seems to resemble a Ship whereof the Tower d' Asinelli is the Mast. It has ever been a Maxim among them not to suffer either Citadel or Fort to be built, under the specious name of Fortification, being jealous that under such a colour they might check the Citizens at their pleasure; So that the Bologneezes have nothing to rely upon, than only the Walls, and valour of their men. The City is founded on the Banks of the famous Savona, which River incorporates with the Rhem a little above Ferrara, by which way all Goods are conveyed. The Air is here for the most part moist, which renders the circumjacient Country very fertile, there being the best Meadows and Arable ground in all Italy. There is also very good Wine, Olives and Oil: although Fish they have none except what is brought from a far; but Venison in great abundance. In this place are made such Sausages, as are sent abroad for great rarities, which some would persuade us at home are made of Ass' flesh: but my curiosity induced me to make such examination of that matter, that I found it otherwise; for they are made of 
* Yet nothing is more covered and eaten by the Jews.  Pork and Mutton. Besides the Traffic in the natural Products of the Land, they are great Encouragers of Manufactories, and especially in Silks. The Streets are very fair and spacious, and at each corner is erected a Conduit, or Fountain. The Houses on the outside seem as if they were quite gone to decay, yet within are very sumptuous and costly, quite contrary to those in most places in Spain, that I have seen, where every House by the Frontispiece seems rather a Palace than a private Dwelling, yet within nasty, full of spiders-webs, and void of Utensils, pure Emblems of Hypocrisy. During my abode there I found not any thing extraordinary, as worthy of Remark, unless the Tower of Garisenda, which is built crooked on purpose, for a proof of Art: although some hold the Churches of this City (if taken in general) to surpass all others in any particular Town in Italy, more especially in regard of the many and rich Images, both of Gold and Silver, but their ground for such an opinion is so deep, 
MAR. 1656.  that I have not line enough to sound it.   

CHAP. II. The Author departs from Bologne, and arrives at Ferrara. Assailed by a Robber: His Arrival at Venice, where he lists himself in the Armade. He arrives at Sante. A great storm between Milo and Argenter. The Ship called The Golden Cock split upon Rocks. A sad Shipwreck. A woman wonderfully saved. The Author's arrival at Candia: Departs with a Tartan to the Venetian Armade. Their Appearance before Mytilene, where they obtain much Spoil and Provision; at last assaulted by 200 of the Turkish Chivalry. Their Encounter, and return aboard the Fleet.  
AFter I had stayed 2 days at Bologne, I set forward for Ferrara, where being arrived I found it a dead Town, having nothing of Trade; but on the contrary many places void and unbuilt, a sure and evident token of the declining condition of that City. Notwithstanding all that, there are many curious Structures in Ferrara, especially on the River Po, which runs that way, and expatiates itself in Trenches or Ditches through the Town. It is strengthened with many strong Bulwarks and Ramparts, and has many spacious and airy streets, with Piazzas on each side along the Houses. Besides this, I could not find any thing worthy of remark, and certainly it was no time for me to consume my small Estate upon such unprofitable Pleasures.  
On the 6 ditto I left Ferrara, tending my journey for Chioggio, but by the way met a Foot-padder, who pillaged me, 
The Author rifled.  and took away 2 Rixdollars, which were given me by the Monk at Florenza, and left me about 20d d to help me to Venice.  
On the 8 th'. I arrived at Chioggio, which is a small City on the Seaside, 
Arrival at Chioggio.  from whence I could view the long-wished-for Venice, being but 3 miles distant. Here is a very convenient Haven, most haunted by Fishers, yet has little other Trading to depend upon, except Gardening, and that only to supply Venice with Plants and Herbs. The prime thing I saw here, was an Image of the Virgin, with a weeping Child in her arm, held by them in great Veneration. As for Churches and Cloisters I had neither leisure nor money to gaze at'em, 
MAY. 1656.  for my Noble was brought to Ninepences, and only as much left me as would pay my Passage to Venice: where being arrived, and paid my naulum, I had not a Farthing left. Nevertheless I knew that I could list myself when I would, and receive advance-money: and after a little Inquiry, met with Monsr. Theodore de Haan, Commander of the Golden Cock, who took me on as Sail-maker. It was not long before the Ship was in her due equippage, and set forth in order to join with the Armade of Venice, which was upon an Expedition against the Turks in the Dardanelli. But de Haan having received letters from Holland, about some urgent affairs of his own, resigned the Command to his Son, and went home by Land.  
On the 10th of April we set Sail from Venice, in company with the Grand St. George, which was then commanded by the Sieur Court Adelaar afterwards Admiral of Denmark, and lately deceased.  
On the 20 ditto we arrived at Xante, where we supplied ourselves with fresh Water, and took in some Pipes of Wine, which is here exceeding good, and tolerably cheap: for the Barillo, a measure of about 5 Gallon, or rather more, costs but a Scudo, that I suppose is equivalent with 5 ● 8 d Sterl. which again is vended in the Armade for 6 Crowns.  
On the 22 we departed from Xante directing our course for Milo; and on the 5 th'. of May got the height of that Island, but did not touch there, steering directly between Milo and Argentero; and here we came to anchor, but too near the coast of Argentero, for we were annoyed with mud. Upon this arose a great Storm of Wind, which rocked us to and again, and at last broke our Cables. We endeavoured all we could to get Sea room, but the Wind being towards the Land, drove us flat against the Coast, where the Sieur Adelaar seeing us in such danger, sent off his Long Boat with 5 or 6 men to fetch a Person of Quality from aboard us, who was a Superintendant of some eminent Place, under the Jurisdiction of the Commonwealth: but all the rest of the Gentry, with about an Hundred Soldiers and Mariners stayed aboard. Soon after, the Ship was cast upon a Rock with the violence of the Sea, where she split all in pieces: in such manner as no tongue can express, nor pen decipher, that a Ship of such Burden, like a Plank was thrown so high above Water, and in the twinkling of an eye dashed into a Thousand shivers. Lamentable it was to hear the pitiful moan of so many that were Parents for their Children, Men for their Wives, Wives for their Husbands, Children for their Parents, and every particular for their Friends and Alliance, The Master of the Ship and myself got a Mast, which, what by the boisterous Wind, and what by the violence of the Floods, did so tumble and roll, that we could not keep it in a due balance, so that we thought best to look out for something else, and by Heavenly Providence met with the great Hatch, which came driving with such force against the Mast, that it had almost sent us both to sound the Deep. However endeavouring to save our Lives, we got fast hold of the Hatch, and won the Shoar. All the rest were drowned to 19 Men, and 2 Women; the one whereof was a Venetian Lady, 
A Gentlewoman wonderfully preserved.  whose Husband was a Captain in that Expedition. This Gentlewoman, after a long and wearisome beating thro' the Surges, and Foaming of the Sea, was thrown mother-naked upon Land, but most miserably torn and rend with Nails and Splinters; having according to the report made by the Chirurgeon, above Fifty Wounds and Holes in her Body: yet notwithstanding all this, was more grieved to hear of the loss of her Husband, than sensible of her own calamity: However considering the extreme cold season, and her weak condition, we covered her Warm with clothes and Bedding. The other Woman that was saved, was the wife of a Private Soldier, who was great with child, had driven Six and Thirty Hours upon a piece of the Hulk, and to our great admiration was taken up alive. It was certain that she could not have endured any longer being already stiff and benumbed, and us pale as a Corpse. So soon as she was brought aboard the Saint George and warmed, was delivered of an Abortiv Child: but herself revived, being cherished by the help of other Women aboard that Ship. Shortly after the Shipwreck came all the Movables and Goods ashore. Being now come aboard the Saint George, and a little refreshed, we steered away for Candy, where we arrived in safety; but what by our unhappy lingering at Argentero, and increase of Folk, the Victualling grew very low; upon which we desired the Governor to supply us with what we had occasion for, but Answer was returned us, That Candia was of itself but very meanly provided, and that they were not in a capacity to assist us. We than desired, that we might have a Tartan to transport us to the Armade, in order to admit ourselves again into the service of the Commonwealth. To this the Governor gave his assent, and with a Ship and 15 men, and some Ammonition dispatched us for the Armade.  
On the 3 of May we set Sail from Candy, but were put to our allowance at the rate of 2 lib. of Bread each man a day, upon a Calculation of 10 days, and so consequently 20 lib. the Voyage.  
On the 8 ditto, we came close under Mytilene, and found that our Provision was already spent, so that it was resolved by the major part of the Company, that we should go ashore and see out for something to supply our Wants, although we knew that the Island was under the Jurisdiction of the Turkish Emperor. However seeing there was as much Danger on the other hand, we choosed rather to adventure ourselves on land, than to starv aboard: and accordingly 12 Hollanders and 15 Greeks stepped ashore, and seeing a drove of cattle we took 6 fat Kine, which we led to the Boat and so got them hoist aboard, one by one. This fair beginning encouraged us to go further within land and about a mile from the Creek where the Tartan lay, found a small village of about 10 or 12 Houses, but ●ot any appearance of either man, woman or child, who we concluded had hid themselves for fear. In the mean while finding no scarcity of Bread, Meal, Butter, Cheese, Honey, Wine and Oil, we picked and chus'd each what he had a mind to, and having packed up more than we could carry, we thought it a sin to leave any thing behind us: we therefore went a little out of the Village, where we found about 20 Asses, these we took and loaded with our Spoil, and in our return to the Shallop espied a Castle which before we had not seen, and thither we supposed that the Peasantry of that Hamlet were fled to secure themselves. But in coming forwards, we found that there was but one high way to the Boat from the Village, and that close by the Castle; for every man had fenced in his Ground with a high Flint-wall: nevertheless coming past the Castle we met with no obstruction or annoyance in the World, till being got about halfway I looked about, and spied 200 Troopers following us as hard as they could drive, whereupon I cried out, Gentlemen, Here comes a Command of Horse, see what you have to do, and resolve without much loss of time, for if you do not behave yourselves courageously we are all dead men. Be valorous and keep together, let us be faithful, and if, we must submit to death at this time, 
MAY 1655  let it be in a honourable manner▪ The Turks in the mean while drew nearer and nearer: and we loath to part with our Plunder, made a faint-hearted fellow (that was good for nothing else) drive the Asses before, whilst we drew up into a Body and put ourselves into a Posture of defence. Our men unanimously gave me (for the time being) the honour of a Chieftain, in lieu of a better. As for the Greeks, they were greater Strangers to martial Discipline than we, and ran confusedly up and down without any order. When the Turks were just come upon us, I gave charge that they should not fire all at once, but by 5 at a time, and that not till they had taken good aim, and the Enemy within shot. With that the Turkish Commander (being a Moor) advanced upon a stately Horse, was bound to levelly his Carbine, but to anticipate him I gave the Word to the first Rank, who brought him down to the Ground and three more besides him. This falling out luckily the second Rank gave fire, and so following the third, till we saw above 20 of the Enemy's Party dead, that gave us no small encouragement; but on the contrary so disheartened the Enemy that they began to retreat; for besides the great advantage we had of the High walls of Flint, which served us for a Rampart; our Arms were large Muskets, and theirs but small Carbines, which at that distance could not do much Execution. When they were gone a good way back, we climbed over the Wall, marched along the high way with four in a Rank, and kept ourselves together. The Turks seeing that faced about on a sudden, clapped spurs to their Horses, and came driving upon us with a most horrid shouting; thinking so to bring us out of our Ranks, and to put us into a disorder: which if they could have effected, had served their turn. But our men the second time faced about and leveled their Muskets, till we had them at a due distance and so we fired for a good while together, without either gaining or losing ground; till at last the Enemy seeing themselves considerably weakened by the loss of their Leaders, were forced to retreat again till they were out of shot: but so soon as we began again to march, they followed us, but in a very easy pace, intending (as we had colour to believe) to surprise us at taking our ●es aboard, but they seeing us too near the Boat were content to let us alone for that time: for had they come we had four small brass Pieces in the Shallop which would have done more service than the Muskets. 
MAY. 1656.  So after this small Bickering, we got our Spoil aboard, with the loss of 2 dead, and 3 wounded in the Conflict.   

CHAP. III. The Author's Arrival at Sante Monte; and at Troy. The Galleys of Bay come with the Turkish Armade. An English Ship engaged with the Turks; defends herself manfully, and at last burned. The Author made Slave, and put in a Galley, with an old Russ: Consult to escape: Betake themselves to Water, and are discovered. The Russ shot with an arrow. They come both to the Venetian Armade.  
ON the 9 th'. dito we left Mytilene, and with a brave Wind got Monte Sante, or Holy Mount in 2 days: This being the Hill (as the devout Romanists believe) whereon our Saviour was tempted by Satan, and from whence he showed him all the Riches of the Earth.  
On the 12 dito we Sailed into the River of Constantinople, where we found the Sea-Armade of Venice at Troy, which is the place and remnant of the famous Troy, so much read of in the Poets of old, although it is hard to judge where the Town has verily stood. All that is to be seen, is a Gate which is built of white Marble, and seems to be exceeding ancient, and a small Village with the Foundations of a wall, that encompass the Town 7 times, not in circular form, but as it were involved like a Snake, or the spring of a Watch. Towards the Sea are some Trenches and a Redout of Earth, which have been lately made by the Turks to check the Passage of the Propontis, or Channel of Constantinople.  
On the 14 we were taken into service, and I put aboard the Little Princess.  
On the 15 we saw the Galleys of Bey, who seeing that we had stopped the Channel, rowed away toward the Greek shore, where they stayed together, being 22 in number.  
On the 16 came an English Ship from Sante called the Midleton to bring Bread, Oars, and Ammonition for the Armade, w●ch the Turkish Galleys assailed, when she came near the Dardanelli. We hearing that, did all we could to sail off and assist them; but it was so calm, that our Sails clinged about the mast. 
MAY. 1656.  The Turks in the mean while lay battering the English Ship, and the English on the other hand defended themselves courageously. After they had fought some hours, the Turks boarded her abaft and got the Poop, which the English seeing blew up the Decks, and so set the Ship on Fire, which nevertheless when they saw her on Fire to the Main Mast, ceased not to fire valourously out at the Prow till she began to sink, which they marking betook themselves to swimming, rather willing to burn or sink than surrender themselves or Ship upon dishonourable Terms. However the Turks took up as many as they could, and made slaves of them. Aboard this Ship was an English Woman who kept a House of Entertainment at Venice, notedly known by the name of Mrs. Penters, and one that was very kind to the English and Dutch when in any straight or trouble, and many of our Nation were sorry when they heard of her Death. The Ship Midleton was mounted with 36 Guns, and 60 Men, whereof about 40 were drowned and burned, as we found by the Bodies we took up an hour and a half after the Battle. And afterward understood by the Slaves we took in the Engagement at the Dardanelli, that the Galleys were so disabled that they repented the Assault, besides more than 500 Men outright killed, and a far greater number wounded.  
While we lay at Anchor at the entrance of the Channel, and loating to and again before the Dardanelli, the most part of our men were quelled with a Scorbutic distemper, for want of fresh Water. For all the Water we could have, we must fetch out of the River of Troy, which we could not do without great peril, and jeopardy of our lives; the Turks having several hidden Trenches, in which they lay skulking till they saw opportunity, and then surprised us. To my great misfortune, I was sent out with 7 more to fetch Water with a Boat; and coming to Troy, we saw very rich Vineyards, at a distance, and mightily longing for some such refreshments, we cast lots who should make the attempt to go and fetch some Grapes, and the ●ot fell upon me: wherefore without much loss of time I betook myself thither, viewing warily if the coast were clear, but seeing no stir or appearance of men; I went up undauntedly, where I made both Hands and Chaps move. But whilst I was thus busy, heard a great ●oise, and turning me about, descried several Turks that had lay in ambush running towards me, from several places between me and the River. Our men were newly come ashore and filling their Casks with Water, who made all the hast they could, gained the Boat, loosed off from the shore, and eyeing the Enemy too earnestly ran the Shallop upon a Sand, where they were set fast; but having some Fire-arms aboard, they kept the Turks off, till they got the Boat adrift, and so made their escape. In the mean while I sat biting my nails, and scratching my head in the Vineyard. Seeing my way forelaid, and no hopes of coming to the Seaside. I began to consult with myself what shift to make, and concluded it the greatest folly in the world to oppose myself against so many men, for which (being once in their clutches) I might expect severer usage. It was not long before they came to see what kind of a Fool, they had got in their Gin, where they found Peel-garlick ready to yield up the Ghost for fear. They brought me first to the Hamlet, where Troy was said to stand in times of yore, and afterwards to those Castles which are built opposite to each other, 
The Author made a Slave.  and command the entrance of the Dardanelli. Here they put me in a Galley, stripped off my Robes, shaved my head, and set me to an Oar, which was work enough for six of us to tug at, allowing me only a pair of linen Breeches to cover my nakedness. I was chained to a Russian, who had been 24 years in the Galleys: for all strangers that they take in the Venetian Sea-Armade, are to stay in the Galleys during life, without the benefit of Redemption. Which when I came to understand, began in all haste to repent my temerity, and foolhardiness, and had thought myself more happy if I had been pilling of Turnips or Cucumbers at Durgerdam, than plucking of such sour Grapes, in a Trojan Vineyard.  
How inhuman and barbarous our Usage was, no Tongue can duly utter nor Pen decipher. For the Guardian of that Galley was reputed the most severe of any other in the Fleet, and although we plied never so sedulously, were sure to be threshed on the naked ribs with a Buls-pizle, when the fit took him; and one man's hide must unjustly be made a piaculum, for another's Remissness, or Sloth, nor was the Tiger ever well, but when he heard some a roaring, or yelling out The Russ was ever now and then counselling to betake our selus to flight, which I had a great mind to essay (for the Venetian Armade lay but two leagues from us) but could never see an opportunity, meeting perpetually with one obstruction or other; and the Coast narrowly watched by the Turks. The Russ had several times attempted to run away, but was ever taken, and had neither Nose nor Ears left him. This woeful Praecedent daunted me so, that I had no great stomach to try, but one day above the rest he gave me good encouragement, saying, Prithee Brother, Which is best, To live in perpetual Slavery, or, Do what you can, to make your Escape? Put the case it should be fruitless and we should be taken, I shall be sure to have the hardest measure, but you, only a hundred strokes on the foot, at worst. 'Tis true, they have threatened to burn me, if ever I run away again, and am caught; but I will rather die so, than to live all my days under the lash of those unreasonable Hellhounds, and to be tormented with a Thousand Plagues, after the manner you see. Come, come, resolve. Faint heart never won fair Lady, and Nothing venture, nothing have; What is there in the World, that may be praeferred before a Golden Freedom? By these and many other reasons he moved me to hazard to matter. The Moscovian or Russ, who was a subtle Impostor, and had an excellent hand at any kind of Roguery, had been some time before at Constantinople, where he had bought a File; this he had stitched up in his Coat, and carried always a little Tinderbox and a Watch-light about him, to use in time of occasion.  
Having now for the space of 6 Weeks endured this woeful state, 
The Author makes his Escape.  we found an Opportunity to rid our selus of that miserable Slavery: for being now left to our Liberty to fetch Water for ourselves, my Comrade and I that were chained together went farther within Land than we needed, and so returned honestly back to the Galley, and that for 2 or 3 times together, the better to prevent suspicion, till at last, we ran so far out of sight that we thought our Enterprise half won. The night coming on, it began to rain, and we to shelter our selus, crept into a cave, where my Mate struck fire and lighted his Wax-candle, that we might see to file: and after a little labour got ourselves loose. The night in regard it was dark favoured us mainly, so that we came to the strand an hour before break of Day, which we saw full of Tents. But being a very rainy night and stormy weather, the Sentinels did not attend their Posts, so that we passed through the midst of them without any examination, and betook ourselves to swimming before it was observed. But it was not long before they began to suspect something, or other, for that Water is very salt and has this property, that with the least motion, or troubling, it burns like fire. Hereupon they shot at us by guess and random, with the Longbow (for by reason of the Rain they could not use their Fire-arms,) so that the Arrows came pelting about our ears, and sometimes grazing upon the Water, till at last one hit the Russ directly upon the buttock. However he swom so long with it, till we were out of shot, 
The Russ shot with an Arrow.  but when I would have pulled it out; the poor caitiff began to yell out most miserably, crying, Let alone, let alone, 'tis an Arrow with a wicker. And thus he was fain to swim for two Leagues together, before we came to the Venetian Armade: and had the stream heavy on our side. When we came to the Armade we were taken into the Ship Abraham's Offering, where the Russ had the Arrow drawn out of his buttock, which had pierced him to the very bone, and put him to a miserable torture before it was drawn out, being a Harpoon with 8 wickers. However he was by the diligence of an able Chirurgeon in a short time cured of his Wound; and we thanked God for his delivery of us from the hands of those merciless Tyrants, preserving us through the dangerous floods, and bringing us to a Christian People.   

CHAP. IU. The fugitive Slaves brought before the General. The manner of their Encouraging their Men. Number of the Venetian Ships and Galleys. Names of the Commanders and Chieftains The Malteezes join with the Armade. The Turkish Fleet sail up, endeavour to break through, are hindered by the Malteezes. The Turks throw up two Batteries. A dreadful Engagement, and playing off the Cannon for three days together. The Turks begin to settle. The Stability and valour of the Venetians. The Turks lose their Courage.  

June 1656  ON the 24 of june by break of day we got the Armade (in manner as aforesaid) and about 8 a clock, I was brought before the General, to whom I signified what had passed as to my particular concernment, and gave him what Intelligence I could from the Turkish Fleet, who intended that day to fall down, had already reckoned the day their own, and made a Dividend among themselves, of the Ships, Spoil, and Slaves, for which reason the Officers were very eager, and endeavoured to hasten the Expedition. The General received me kindly, thanked me for the Information, ordered us each 50 Crowns, and so dismissed us. So soon as we were come out of the General's presence, he ordered a Proclamation to be proclaimed and affixed to the Mast of every Ship and Galley, That every private person should freely enjoy what they could get by plundering; and a strict Interdiction was sent to the respective Officers not to deprive or molest them upon pain of Death: which was no small encouragement to the Mariners and private Soldiery, At first the Venetians were very weak, but afterward, by the joining of the Maltheezes and some Dutch, they were increased to 28 Ships of War, 24 Galleys, and 7 Galleasses. Their Officers were as follow.  

A LIST Of the Head-Officers and Commanders in the Venetian Armade, as they were engaged against the Turks Anno 1656  
Lorenzo Marcello, GENERAL.  
Barbaro Badoer PROVEDITOR of the ARMADE.  
Joseppo Morosini, ADMIRAL of the GALLEASSES.  
Antonio Barbaro, Captain of the Gulf.  
Zuanni Marcello, LIEUTENANT GENERAL, and Captain of a Galeass.   

The Heads, or Prime Officers of the Galleasses were,  
Alvise Foscari.  
Anthonio Priuli.  
Marco Riva  
Alvise Bataglia  
and Giacomo Loredan.   

Captains of Galleys  
Pietro Contarini, ADMIRAL.  
M. Antonio Pasquaglio.  
Pietro Quirini.  
Giacomo Semiticolo.  
Nicholo Muazzo.  
Dionisio Disani.  
Zorzi di Mezo  
Zuanni Venier  
Francisco Vizzaemano.  

MAY. 1656  Nicholo Colergi.  
Aurelio Longo.  
Alviso Basso.  
Giacomo Polani.  
Francisco di Mezo.  
Pietro Barozzi.  
Zorzi Mengano.  
Angelo Muazzo.  
Alessandro Dondolo.  
Thomaso Fradello.  
Z. Giacomo Quirini.  
Herolamo Pesaro.  
Alvize Soscarini.  
Guglielmo Avogrado.   

Of the Ships of War the Head-Officers were,  
Marco Bembo, ADMIRAL  
Zuanni Contarini, VICE-ADMIRAL  
Gerolamo Malepiero, RERE-ADMIRAL.   

Captains of Men of War.  
Z. Andora Bragadina.  
Bernardo Bragadino.  
Nicolo Dona.  
Agostino Marcello.  
Vincenzo Quirini.  
Gerolamo Loredano.  
Marco Barberigo.  
Nicolo Zane.  
Zuanni Corner.  
Faustino Riva.  
Zorzi Zancarat.  
Francisco Basadono.  
Francisco Pisani  
Bernardin Vizzamano Volunteers without Pay.  
Francisco Quirini Volunteers without Pay.  
Alessandro Zane.   

Great Personages and Volunteers.  
The Prince of Parma.  
Zuanni Anthonio Muazzo, a youth of 13 Years.  
Andrea Muazzo, aged 12 Years.  
Dominico Anthonio Semiticolo.  
Marco Zorzi. Pietro Gritti. Lazaro Mocenigo.   
For the space of one whole month we crused upon the Turkish Armade, which we waited for daily from Constantinople. In the mean while those of Maltha came up with their Galleys to the Venetian Armada, under the Flag of the Prior of Rochel. The Turks on the contrary had 28 Men of War. 9 Galleasses, and 60 Galleys, those of the Bey reckoned with them. The said Fleet was also full of men, and well provided with Ammunition.  
On the 23 the whole Armade came down with full Sail before the Dardanelli, as if they would direct their course for the Islands of Greece, or some place in the Archipelago, aiming to make a breach sometimes at one place, and sometimes at another; But the Venetians were too vigilant to suffer it; for they composed their Fleet in such order, that the Turks could not find a Passage. Nevertheless the Maltheezes disowned themselves to be under the Standard of Saint Mark, but reserved the Command of their own Galleys, as themselves listed and thought good.  
On the 24 the Turks held themselves close to the Banks near the two Castles, mentioned before (in Pag. 80) which tended mainly to their advantage. Besides this they had thrown up two Batteries, one upon the Corner of Barbaria, on the Anatolian Side, and another, on the Greek, or Western Coast, from whence they played off their great Guns against the Christian Navy, to work a passage through for their Fleet. Three days long continued they on both sides firing with their Canon, the Admiral of the Venetians, as bearing the chief Standard; riding nearest to the Enemy, and consequenly suffered more damage than the rest of the Navy: for the Turks threw out great Stones with their Bombs, that they killed three men on a breast, who stood very near the General. In these Castles are Guns of an incredible mussin, and as some say, those in the outmost Redoubts 30 inches diameter. And although there was not any hope of doing the Enemy much harm, yet the Christian Fleet kept still in good Order; waiting greedily for the Turkish Navy, which we thought would come out, when ours was a little more disabled. On the 26 they came out with full Sail, and in good Order, with such a hideous roaring and shouting, that we could not understand the words of Command, nor hear one another speak. Their Ships as well as their Galleys were so stowed with men, that they were a great encumbrance to themselves.  
The Wind was now at North, and favoured the Turks so, 
The Turks have the benefit of the Wind.  that the Christians were almost blind and stifled with smoke: yet the whole Fleet kept their Posts without giving way to the Enemy. The General to give a good example and encouragement to the whole Navy, put the Fleet in the form of a Crescent and himself in the Nombril; and so expected the Infidels Armade: but they kept off at a considerable distance, still playing off their Cannon. The Wind and stream which favoured them against us, 
JUNE. 1656.  was also advantageous for us against the Galleys of the Bey, that were to the Rearward of us; who also fought courageously, and held their Post all the while. The Venetians did all they could to close up with the Turks, but could not move forward and keep their due Order, thro' reason of the Wind, and violent Breaking's of the Stream, occasioned on purpose by the Turks in opening of their Fleet, that beat Strongly against the Christian Navy. The Enemy in the mean while battered the Squadron of Marco Bembo with an incessant shooting of whole Tears and Broadsides, that all cracked again; nor had Lazaro Mocenigo, and Gerolino Malipiero the Vice-Admiral, assisted by the Prince of Parma, the lest share in this hot Engagement. But beyond all others, memorable was the magnanimous and resolved Valour of Bernardo Bragadino Chieftain of the Contarina, a small, but a well-built Friggat: who notwithstanding the Enemy poured out great shot, like Hail upon her, yet dured all the brunt of the battle thundering with her Cannon against the Turkish Galleasses, that they were forced to remove their Post 5 several times. An admirable rare Courage! which if it either could, or had been seconded, by all the Naval Forces of the Christians then present, would have given such an Overthrow to the Infidels as no Age might parallel. Nor may we forget to commemorate the good service of the Dutch, who served as Auxiliaries in this Naval Expedition, and behaved themselves very well. The Turks now seeing the prudent Conduct of the General, and undaunted Courage of the whole Fleet did all they could to draw off, fell down to the Seaward and retired into the Bay of Barbary, where they dropped Anchor, hoping that now they were in Sanctuary.   

CHAP. V. The Wind turns in favour of the Venetians. The Turks flee and are obstructed. The brave Courage of the Galleys of Bey. General Marcello killed. The manly Behaviour of Lazaro Mocenigo, who loses one eye. Two Dutch Ships, to wit, Yet Wapen van Nassau, and Den David en Goliath, blown up with their own Powder. The Turkish Capitana yields. The General and disorderly Flight of the Turks. Their total overthrow, and loss on both sides.  
AFter the Christians had long laboured to close up with the Turks, 
JUNE. 1656.  but could not effect their Intentions, for the Wind blew hard at North, and North and by East, and the stream still falling with great Force upon their Ships and Galleys, rendered their Endeavours fruitless, so that they could not do any enterprise, than barely what was done with their Ordnance, they had resolved to rest a little: 
The Wind turns in favour of the Christians.  till on a sudden by Heavenly providence the Wind came about, and GOD, out of his unspeakable Goodness, granted the Christians a helping Hand, almost after the same manner, as about a Hundred Years agone in the famous Sea-fight against the Turks, under the Conduct of Don juan d' Austria, when the Turks had the Wind fair and favourable, till they came to engage with the Christians, and then by the Divine Bounty of the Everlasting GOD, the Wind turned to the advantage of the Christian Fleet; in such sort that the Christians gave them the greatest and most fatal Overthrow, that ever yet was either known, or heard of, in the world. The General Marcello had no sooner observed that the Wind blew a little Southerly, but he gave Command to set sail, and stretch the Oars, in order to give the Turks a sudden Assault, which was in obedience to his Will immediately put in practice. The Turks being thus surprised by our silent Attacque, and finding the Wind directly against them, were dreadfully dismayed: insomuch that upon our entering the Bay we saw them by whole flocks jump over board. Some ran with their Ships and Galleys bluntly against the Wall, others that lay at Anchor nearest the Sea, strove to drive through the Fleet and gain the Rear; and those that saw themselves not able to retreat, left the Ships, and betook themselves to swimming; few of which escaped (for there runs a stung Tide) and most of them were carried to the Seaward, that we met whole Shoals of them driving in the stream, 
MAY. 1656.  and amongst them many Christian Slaves, which we took up with our Shallops. In the mean time the Turks continued their Flight, endeavouring with their Galleys to tow away some of the ablest Ships, but the Venetians fell so furiously upon them that they were anticipated, and only made their escape with 14 which got the Castle for their Refuge: Lazaro Mocenigo, who was Volunteer and commanded the Sultan (formerly taken by the Turks) made in with great Courage, and cut off their Passage, where he lay thundering and firing his Cannon till the General Marcello broke through the midst of the Enemies Armade, put them into disorder, and kept his own Fleet in good Condition holding still in the Nombril or Centre of the Crescent, jointly with the Proveditor Barbaro Ba●oer, the Squadron of Maltha, with the Ships and Galleasses of joseppo Morosini. The Right Wing (or Horn) was commanded by Anthonio Barbers, a Captain of the Gulf, the left by Pietro Contarini. The Turks seeing themselves environed on every side with the Christians, and their Passage obstructed, began to fight with better courage than before, and defended themselves very bravely, as sometimes desperate Soldiers do. 
The notable valour of the Galleys of Bey.  But above all the Galleys of Bey appeared signally stout, and for their laudable behaviour and singular valour merited as much the Honour, as the Turkish Mustapha the Dishonour of the Day. But with a Lion-like Courage, and as wise a Conduct, did a certain Bassi manifest his generous spirit, who was the same that had promised the Grand Signior, to present him with Marcello's head, or to forfeit his own in lieu thereof (being a Greek Renegado) and assuredly he gave none reason to tax him with Remissness on his own behalf, yet failed in the Atchieument of his well-intended Enterprise; for when he was bound to board him, the General got assistance, and offered to enter the Bassas Galley, 
The General Marcello killed.  but was unfortunately killed with a Cannon ball, and four Gentlemen that stood next him. Zuanni Marcello seeing this, held all in silence, for fear of discouraging the Christian Armada; took the Command upon himself, and pursued the Battle hotly after the same Order, till he had privately signified the General's death to Barbaro Badoer, Proveditor of the Navy, who without loss of time stepped over, and succeeded him, still holding the same Order which the General had designed. Lazaro Mocenigo in the mean while busy to obstruct the Passage of the Turks with the Sultan, ran her unluckily upon a Sand, near the shore, 
JUNE. 1656.  and at last too eager in shooting set the ●hip on fire, having a little before lost his Eye with a splinter.  
The Sultan had aboard her divers Persons of Quality and Volunteers, who maximis ad minimos quitted themselves well and honourably: amongst which was, Capt. Zorzi Dadick, The Sieur Ebert, Capt. Lieutenant Gremonville, and Bernardino Canal a Reformado Captain, whereof the two last were irrecuperably wounded. During the Fight, was the Dutch Ship, called 't Wapen van Nassauw under the Command of Capt. Faustino Riva blown up with her own Powder, as also another Dutch Ship called Den David en Goliath by an unfortunate shot in her Powder Chamber, when she was engaged with the Galleys of the Bey, and lay so close to the said Galleys that 5 of them were blown up with her. Aboard the same Ship were 44 Hollanders, and 22 left, being just the half lost. The Prince of Parma was so forward that his Companions were fain to restrain him by force, running himself oftentimes into a needless jeopardy of his Person. Remarkable was that of the General Borri being aboard the galleass of Marco Riva, who having his young Son by him, carried him up and down to see what was worthy of note. When the Night came on, they unanimously left off on both sides, and all was still; but the next Morning by break of day, they fell on amain, and seemed for some hours to be equally matched as that the Day was thought dubious, but at last the Turks were fain to give over, 
Courage of the Turkish Capitana  only the Capitana held out very manfully, till the Admiral Marco Bembo came to close up with his Lar-board where he saluted him so with Broadsides, that he was forced to yield as well as the rest.  
The Venetians seeing the Capitana yield gave a great shout that the Castle and Banks rang again, and so well encouraged they were that, they fell furiously in one entire Body upon the Saracens, that they forthwith betook themselves to flight, and retired to the Fort, but the Christians had so hindered their passage, that few of them got clear. The Sieur Barbaro Badoer who succeeded the General concealed his death so long until that the Fight was over, and he able for to give the Fleet an account of the Enemy's Overthrow, which was in the second Evening, pretty late.  
The Venetians having now made themselves Masters of so many Ships and Galleys, were at a loss for Men enough to manage them, 
The loss on both sides.  that they were fain to set the most part on fire, reserving only such as were left disabled, as a token of this notable Victory, which had cost the Commonwealth above 400 Souls, and amongst those their most faithful and valiant General Marcello, whose (unhappy Death can never be enough lamented. The number of those that were wounded was great, but uncertain. The Sultan, and the 2 Dutch, men of War, which as we have already said were unfortunately destroyed with their own powder, was all their loss of Shipping. They took 18 Galleys, and the Maltheezes 11 Ships, besides 54 Ships that were burned: so that of 97 Galleasses, Ships and Galleys, only 14 were saved on the Enemy's side. By this laudable Enterprise and Victory of the Venetians, above 5000 Christian Slaves were restored to Freedom. But how many of the Infidels lost their lives was uncertain, only by a rude conjecture, and a modest Calculation were computed between ● and 6000 Men. When we went to ruminate for Spoil among their Dead we found the Fretum, or Mouth of the Dardanelli floating so thick with Bodies, that we could not force our Boat through; but with our Oars and Boat-hook were fain to drag and draw them behind the Shallop, which again with the force of the stream were thrown on heaps one above another, like Shoals of Ice, and so came tumbling into the Boat, in spite of all the means we could use.   

CHAP. VI The Siege of Tenedos. The two Castles surrendered. A description of Tenedos, Lemnos, it's Situation, and taking in. The present state of Greece. J. Struys arrival at Pathmos and Samos. Taken by the Turks with 6 of his Companions, and soon after ransomed.  
The said Articles were mutually counter-changed and ratified by the Heads of both Parties, and all the Turks and Moors drawn out, even the Greeks too, who were suffered to stay upon the Island but not within the Castle. The Heads of the other Castle seeing the Venetians in possession of this, put out the White Flag and desired Articles of Peace, which after a short Treaty of Commissioners on both sides were signed, existing mostly of the same Tenure with the former.  
Tenedos lies near the coast of Anatolia and is called Bouchadde by the Turks. It is of a fertile Soil, and produces plenty of Fruit, 
Tenedos described  but especially Grapes, and has good store of Melons and other delicacies, which they have also in the Winter-season. And according to its small extent (not exceeding 28 English miles in circuit) has abundance of cattle. It is beset with Hills towards the Sea on every side, but within arable, and fit for tillage. The General committed it to the Trust of Signior Loredano, a Gentleman of Venice, with a Garrison of 700 Italians, and others.  
Tenedos being now in possession of the Venetians, 
Lemnos or Scalimene where situated.  we set Sail for Scalimene, or Lemnos, which we found about 6 Leagues distant from the other, being Seated directly before the mouth of the Channel, and therefore a Place in which the Turks had reposed great Confidence. This Island has several small Towns upon it, as Condea, 
* Which was of old the chief Town, and called Ephestias. Bellon.  Cochino, Palso Castro, and others, beside 75 Villages and Hamlets. When we came before the Place in order to lay Siege to it, we found a Fort having 700 men in Garrison; 
Lemnos Surrendered upon dishonourable Terms.  but the Sou-bassa hearing that Tenedos was already taken in by the Christian Armade, and finding himself incapable to defend the Place by reason that all communication was cut off, he desired to treat by Deputies, and without ever a shot surrendered the Fort and Island upon dishonourable Conditions.  

described.  Lemnos, or Scalimene as it is now called, has Thracia on the North, and the Hill Athon towards the West, and as we have said, lies not far from Lemnos. It is no whit inferior to any Island in the Aegean-Sea, for a wholesome Air, and a good Soil: it affords all kind of Grain and Pulls, as also Almonds, Oil, Lactuaries, and plenty of Sheep, which for their Wool is no small profit to the Inhabitants: and from hence comes that excellent and useful 
* Georg. Agricola in his Dialogue of Metals entitled Bermannus givs this relation of that Earth, Pastilloes praeterea ibidem vidi ex eadem urbe portatoes, coloris fere fulvi, & literis Turcicis signatos quos ob id Terram Sigillatam appellant: quinetiam Lemnia illa terra olim imagine caprae signabatur. And a little afterward he adds this. Turcae eam un● pestis remedium esse asserentes, ita magni aestimant, ut alter alteri muneris loco ipsam donet. See more ab● this excellent mineral in Dioscorides, and in Gallen 9 th' Book of Simples.  Earth, called Terra Lemnia, or Terra Sigillata, which is so highly prized by those that profess Physic. The Inhabitants and Peasantry are Greeks, which may not live in any fortified Place. In this Island has been a famous Labrynth, whereof the Ruins yet appear in some places. The chief City thereof is called also Scalimene, and is indifferent strong. When the General left the Island he constituted a Governor and sent some Ships to cruse through the Archipelago, and urge the payment of the Arrearages in the Tributary Places, of which the Venetians were now Masters, and light also upon such as were free, for so unhappy are the Islands of Greece that they must pay Tribute both to the Turks and Venetians, which is a great oppression to so poor a People.  
Greece is at this day as fertile as ever, but is greatly deficient of its former Power and Wealth, by the Dominion of the Turks and perpetual Wars. As for the People they are very urban and good ● converse with. The Customary Habit of the Merchants and Citizen is as follows. They wear on their Heads a long red Cap, with a fold hanging down before, and affect long hair, although some I have seen shorn, and with a Turban like Mahometans. Their Breeches long and narrow demitted to the calf of the leg, and little red boots above their stockings. Above all a Coat like the Persians but without a Girdle. In stead of a Cloak they wear a Coat with long narrow sleeus hanging down to the middle of the Thighs, which they seldom or never put their arms into. The Peasants also wear long red Caps as the Merchants and Citizens, but wide linen or Cotton Breeches like Trouzers. Their Gentlewomen wear a white Silk or Cotton Sharf about their Head, hanging over their back and shoulders like Nuns. Their Stockings are mostly scarlet and neatly embroyded, their shoes with little handsome heels, and sometimes for their more easy going with slaps. Those that are of ability wear a kind of Boddice or waistcoat of cloth of Gold, and above that an upper-Coat with long Silk sleeves, this is girded about the middle with Ribbons. Some there are also which wear a short silk Jacket or Justicore coming down to the calf of the legs, their shifts hanging down 2 palms below that.  
Being now as we already told you, sent to collect Tribute, the first Island we came at was Pathmos, 
Arrival at Pathmos.  the place where the H. Apostle john, and the beloved Disciple of our Lord, was confined, or banished to, and where he wrote his Revelations. When we went shore, they showed us a little Chapel in the cleft of a Rock, which (as the Greeks ascertained to us) was the very place where he saw those Heavenly Visions; as also a stone which lay above his Bed. This ●tone the Greeks sell, and make great profit of it, being stamped into powder is reputed the best Remedy that ever was known, for a Quartan Ague. The City Pathmos is founded upon a Hill about the middle of the Island, and has within it a very fair Monastery with the Tomb of Chrysolodos the Founder thereof. The Island is both Fruitful, populous and well built, on the Seaside is a little strong Sconce to defend the place against Piracy, but when they heard of the Over●row of the Turks, did not in the lest oppose themselves against us, ●ing overawed by the Cadis.  
When we had dispatched at Pathmos, we steered away for Samos, which is an Island right over against the Gulf of Smirna, to see if we could meet with any Saiks, or other Turkish Shipping, and according ● our expectation met with two rich Prizes, laden with raw Silk, and other precious Commodities. 
Samos.  After we had Sailed to and again for 5 or 6 days, we came to Samos to demand the Contributions as at other places. When we were arrived in this Road our Commander thought good to supply us with Water and other necessaries, 
The Boat sent ashore.  upon which I and 19 other of our Ships-folk were sent ashore. Ten of our Company were sent up to the Village to buy Provision and Refreshments, and the rest, amongst whom I myself was one, were to take in Water, and manage the Boat. But hardly had we taken in two Boat-fulls but we saw a Brigandine making toward us, stowed full of Men: whereupon we concluded it was no time to dally, and therefore threw our Things aboard, 
The Boat intercepted by the Turks.  and betook our selus to rowing as hard as we could drive towards the Ship. But the Turks having far more hands than we, and consequently swifter at rowing, came in between us and the Ship, which lay half a Dutch League from Land. We then seeing little hopes of getting aboard, wheeled about and made towards Land; but were as hotly pursued by the Turks, and seeing the Brigantine within pistol-shot of us astern, we jumped over board and betook ourselves to running. But when I saw that I could not run any longer, I was forced to seek a lurching place, for my feet were sore in running through Thorns and Thistles. Our Commander and Folk aboard seeing how cases stood, came nearer the shore and shot at the Infidels with their Guns from aboard, though they held not up to pursue us. When I had lay a little there, I began to peep out, to see if the coast was clear, but was spied by 4 Turks, who were hunting after us, and seeing no mean to make my escape was forced to submit. When they had tied my hands behind my back, 
The Author and 6 more of the Company taken.  as they had done with 6 more of the Company, they dragged us away to the Brigadine, where coming aboard we met with more civility from the Captain than we could indeed expect. They were also so civil to us when they took us that they did not so much as take a rag of clothes from us, for I had then 25 Ducats about me which I still kept. The Captain, who was a person of a generous Spirit, and with one compassionate, seeing us in such distress and consternation, said, Be not grieved for the lo● of your Liberty, for I will not use you unkindly, neither shall you suffer want for any thing, that is needful if we ourselves are able to supply you. However he brought us to Rhodes where the Plague raged with great violence and consequently the Slave-market very low, for we could not yield him above 100 Pieces of Eight. But the Captain not willing to part with us at so low a price brought us to Great Scio, where the Turkish Armada than lay, thinking so to get a better Sum, but found it quite to the contrary: whereupon we prayed him to sell us to our own Ship. Well, said he, if your Commander, or your Countrymen will buy you, I am content, their money is as good as another's. With this Resolution we were brought back again to Samos, where when we were arrived, sent a Letter to the Commander, humbly praying him that he would have the goodness to redeem us: upon which he made answer, That he was well inclined to do it, but that the Ship was at that time very scarce of Money, and that he could not make up above 1800 Pieces of eight, which if that would redeem us 7, we might strike a bargain with the Captain. Upon this answer we were very glad, and under good hopes of coming out of the Hands of the Turks. The Captain of the Brigantine observing that we had got an answer from aboard, asked us, What news? will your Commander redeem you or not? Yes, said one of us, if you will be reasonable with us, we shall find means to be redeemed, but otherwise not. Hereupon he demanded 2000 Pieces of eight, whereat we seemed to be astonished, and bade him 800 withal declaring that our Proffer seemed more to the matter than his Demands; but he would not seem to hearken to that. We than raised it to 1000 but he told us, That it was but Labour lost unless we bade something more to the purpose, and at last declared, That for 1300 we should be redeemed, provided we would pay him that day, but if not, that the next day he would go out of Town, and sell us to those that would bid most, be who they will. We seeing it now brought to a good end, and sensible of our ability, of performance, took him at the word, lest some other resolution should take him in the head: and presently put out a white Flag. The Commander thereupon sent out a Shallop, 
The Author and his Companions ransomed  which came rowing towards us, till they came within speech of us, and understanding the Conditions of Redemption rowed back again to the Ship, to bring us the Money for which we had covenanted with our Patron; upon this we were again Freemen and thanked GOD for his divine bounty towards us. The other men had stayed at Samos so long in quiet, till they were fetched away by the Ships Company when the Brigantine was gone.  
When we had done, and dispatched our affairs in the Archipelago, we set Sail towards Venice, though our Ship was so leaky, that we were fain to pump continually, however by the help of GOD we arrived Safe. But by the way were forced to put in at a certain Island right over the City Maddonna, not daring to trust ourselves any longer at Sea, till we had (as well as we then and there were able) stopped some of her leaks, which were principally at the Bow. But our Carpenter notwithstanding all he did, could not stop the main leak being in the worst place it might be in, for no great Nails would hold, insomuch that the Commander set me at work to stop it which I did with Sail-cloth 2 or three times folded, and fastened artificially and firm, for which he gave me a good reward.   

CHAP. VII. The Author admits himself again into the Service of the Venetians. Arrival at Corfu with an account of its Strength, Bulwarks, Sconces and other Fortifications, near, and about the City. Fertility of the Island. Arrival at Cephalonia, it's Fertility, Situation and Strength. Arrival at Sante, an account of its Strength, its Villages, Scarcity of fresh Water. Arrival at Cerigo: Situation of that Island, Relics, or Ruins of the Temple of Venus.  
SO soon as I had received the Arrears of my Wages at Venice, I hired myself again into the Venetian Armade for chief-or upper-Sail-maker, the Armade then lying before the Dardanelli. We had a Proveditor aboard us, so that we put in at all the Tributary Islands under the Seignory of Venice, to urge the payment of the Arrearages. And in the first place Corfu, 
Corfu.  an Island lying in the latitude of 34 degr. 45 min. The City may well be reputed one of the best fortified Sea-towns in Europe, being encompassed with a strong Wall and higher than ordinary, built altogether after the modern Fortification, and well furnished with great Ordnance. It is moreover secured with two Castles, or rather Sconces, one towards the Sea barely named, The Castle, the other on the Landside called, Castello nuovo, or New Castle, That Fort which lies towards the Sea is built upon a high Rock, and munited with 3 Walls and 5 Bulwarks, whereof one is built against the Sea, and beats off the Floods and Billows. This Sconce, or Fort, has 3 Gates, that on the West is called, Porta di Castrado, that toward the Sea, Porta di Mandrahico, and the third Porta Real which is very narrow, and has a Draw-bridge. This Port also serves for a private Sally in time of need, and is the place where they go out at to the other Fort, for they can have communication and assist each other if attacked, 
JUNE. 1657.  by certain cavernal or subterranean passages, wrought through the Rocks. They lie about 1000 paces from each other and do not only serve for their own Defence, but also command the whole Island, and that next the Sea of such power that it might over awe the Town, being well provided with all kinds of Ammonition, and Cannon which they cast themselves. There are besides these Sconces several other Fortifications, and inferior Forts, Seated on high Rocks, and Walls proportionable to the other, encompassed also with very deep Ditches which receive their Water from the Sea. Corfu is also of itself very strong and divided into 3 several Wards as Spileo, Urio nuovo, and Spianato. The high Fortifications have no Fountain Water that is good, and are therefore fain to make use of Rain Water which they receive and keep in cisterns and pits like those of Amsterdam: but without the Walls of Corfu, is a certain fountain or Well which they call Cardacchio, that affords good Water and very clear. Upon this Island stand 68 Villages and Hamlets, all reasonably well peopled. The Venetian Garrison as it then appeared by their Musterroll consisted of 400 light Horse and 900 Infantry. The Haven is very fair and convenient, and comes to the middle of the Island on that side which faces the main Continent. On the other side lies Butriato a noted place for Fishing. On this Island is much 
* Which I presume is either the same, or much at one with Caviar, or Ichary prepared by the Moscovians. Arrival at Cephalonia.  Bottarge made, which is a Dish prepared of the Roes of Sturgeon, salted, dried, and for the longer and better preservation thereof dipped in Wax. Here is also much Oil of Olives, or Oleum omphacinum made, and the Vine well cultivated. It is also very fruitful, affoarding plenty of Oranges, Lemons, Citrons etc. besides Honey, Wax and Salt for which Commodities this Island is very famous abroad.  
From Corfu we set sail for Cephalonia, where there is only one small City, raised on a high ground at the South-end of the Island, and well fortified; but the Haven thereto belonging is large and convenient. There appear the Ruins of three other Cities, which are said to be dismantled upon the continual Jars of the Inhabitants amongst themselves and at length reduced to such a poor remnant. Besides this City is a little Fort, in which they repose no small trust. It is situated in the latitude of 38 degr. and 29 min. and is almost of a triangular form. The East-end faces the Cape of Ciarenzo, 
Situation and Form  a Promontory of Morea or Peleponessus. The North-point, Capo Guiscardo, confronts with Staumara, and the west-angle or Capo Sidro looks toward the main Continent of Africa: Between this angle and Ciarenza which lies to the South-west is a large Bay, making a fit Harbour not far from the City Cephalonia, called Argoftoli, where a great number of Ships may very commodiously ride at anchor. At the entrance of this Gulf is a small Island called Guardiana, which is fortified with a little Moot or Castelet, which they call Nasso. They have great scarcity of fresh or spring Water in this Island, which is nevertheless of a rich and fat Soil, and good pasturage for Sheep which there abound. It produceth also vast quantities of Grain, Wine, Oil, Manna, Wax, Honey, Flax and Silk, besides the great plenty of Currans, which is the Staple-Commoditie of the Land.   

CHAP. VIII. The Author's arrival at Sante, or Xante, It's admirable Strength, Villages, and great Scarcity of fresh Water. Their Dough for bread kneaded with Wine in stead of Water. Arrival at Cerigo; Situation of that Island. Relics of the Temple of Venus. Arrival at Candia, with its Situation, A Description of the City, as to its Strength, Inhabitants, the most eminent Buildings and Churches, Climate, Soil, Vintage, Fruits, Vegetables, cattle, Fowl, Plenty of Silk and other Commodities, as also the modern Habit and Attire of the Candians. A Description of Standia. The famous Fight between Lazaro Mocenigo and the Tributary Auxiliaries of Algiers, Tripoli, Theunis and Zoëli. The Fort of Zovaschi taken in by the Proveditor Mocenigo. The Turks attack Tenedos, but in vain. The Turkish Armada come out of the Dardanelli. The Beginning of the Engagement. The Turkish Emperor comes with an Army of 20000 Horse, and 80000 Foot down to the shore, where from a high Tent he sees sees the Engagement. The Turks lose their Posts, and Sail off. The incomparable valour of Mocenigo and Bembo, who are unluckily killed by the fall of a Sail yard. Their Galley blown up with 400 Men. The Loss and Gains on both sides.  
THe Proveditor which we had aboard not willing to lose much time, made but short delay at Cephalonia, for he had not much time to spend according to his Order and Instructions to go to the Armade, wherefore after a short abode we set Sail, and steered away for Xante.  
Xante is an Island lying in the latitude of 38 degr. about 13 [English] leagues from Cephalonia. On this Island is a City containing about 4000 Houses, or rather Cottages, without chimneys, that they say, is by reason of frequent Earthquakes, of which they are in daily jeopardy: but the Muniments as well in respect of Site, as Strength are very considerable; for the Citadel is built upon a high Hill, and what by Nature and what by Art, 
Strength of Xante.  seems to be almost inaccessible, well provided also with Ordnance and Ammunition of War suitable. On this Island are several Capes, the most eminent whereof are Capo del Guardo on the South, and Capo de Tiri on the East: between which two Capes lies a Commodious Harbour, called Porto de Chietto, which has a good Road for Anchorage at 8 fathom Water. Xante has 45 Villages and Hamlets whereof the most principal lie toward the Sea, to wit, St. Chietto, Littachia, Pigalachia, 
Villages  Sculicado, Saint Nicholo and Natte. The last of these has a Harbour fit to receive 100 Galleys. In the hilly part of the Island are several Convents, Cloisters and Religious Houses of the Greek Church, who have also a Bishop here as well as the Romanists, but the Greeks exceed the Italians in number, and consequently have their Religion in greater splendour. You are no sooner come ashore but you are met by a parcel of jews, who shall ask you if you have any money to change. These deal in any contemptible Traffic, but especially in Slaves, when any Turkish Saiks, or other Shipping is brought up by English, French or Hollanders.  
Xante is of a very fertile Soil and fruitful, in nothing inferior to Cephalonia, yet exceeds it in Quality and Plenty of Wine, 
Fertility of Soil. Scarcity of Water. Doughty moistened with Wine.  but yet scarcer of Water, insomuch that the Inhabitants are sometimes constrained to knead their Dough with Wine, whereof they make their Bread. Here is also prepared the delicate Botarges, especially in july and August, when the Sturgeon comes from the Archipelago. The Land is very populous, and all go armed; so that when the Turkish Corsairs send some men ashore to take Slaves, do frequently change Fates with them: and for that end the Venetians maintain 70 or 80 Horse, day and night to ride about the Coast. We also brought hither some new Infantry to relieve the old.  
From Xante we sailed to Cerigo which lies in 36 degr. and 45 min. directly over against Capo Saint Angelo, before the Gulf of Colochino; 
Arrival at Cerigo  on the other side it has Candia about 13 Leagues distant, insomuch that the Italians say, 
It's Situation.  Congo is a good Corpse du guard and a Lantern for the Christians to enter the Archipelago. On the southeast side is a strong Fort built upon a proclive Rock, and has but one way to enter it. The nether-City is populous enough; and the Inhabitants very diligent in their respective callings. Here they showed us the Foundations and Ruins of a famous Temple dedicated to the Goddess Venus, 
Ruins of the Temple of Venus.  in the times of Gentilism. The Land is very hilly, but the Valleys rich and fertile, having one Well of very good Water. The Inhabitants are chief Greeks, except the Garrisons, and the Governor, who is always a Venetian Nobleman.  

Candia.  From Cerigo we set sail for Candia the renowned City of Crete, which now is also called Candia. The Island lies about 47 degr. Northerly latitude, and is about 200 English land-miles in length, lying almost East and West. It has many Creeks, and abundance of fair Cities, of which the most noted are Candia, Canea, Retimo, Sitio, Apicormo, Chysamo, Melipotamo, Garahuse, besides a great number of unwalled Towns, which they say amount to 650, all the inferior Villages and smaller Granges excluded out of the number. The whole Island has been heretofore under subjection of the Venetians, but at that time when I was there, the Turks were Masters of all except the City Candia itself, which was then under the Venetians and a few strong Holds as appendences on the Town, which they held (as is universally known) for a considerable time together against the Ottoman Forces. The Fortifications have been and are frequently altered, according to the Discretion of the respective Governors: and is from the very first Foundation famous for its admirable rare Site, and natural strength. It lies in a fair flat Country: the East and North Angles fronting the Sea. 
Strength of Candia  Upon that Angle which lies to the northward was an impregnable Fort or Castle, which had not only all the Fortifications that could be thought useful, or any way advantageous for the Town, but also the Sea for a further strength, which encompassed it as a Mote. The same Castle has not only the Command of the Haven, but also the Sea on both the right and left side. Between this Castle and the City was a Wall of 20 foot broad, on which the Soldiers marched, from the one to the other. Besides this the Town was munited with divers Ramparts, Bulwarks and other Fortifications without; that it seemed to me at that time, and since, the greatest folly in the World, for the Turks to spend so much Treasure and lose so many of their best Soldiery in such a long Siege, and so little hopes or encouragement of taking it in; although at last they are become Masters of it. The Citizens are Greeks, as are most of the Inhabitants throughout the whole Island; but the Garrisons and Gentry, Venetians; besides a great Concurrency of Strangers from all parts of the Levant, which make the City very populous. The most eminent Buildings, are the Palace of the General, that of the Bishop, which for its Antiquity and magnificent work is well worth seeing, the Palaces of several Noblemen, and the Churches, which are 8 in number, to wit, St Mark, St Francis, St Paul, St George, St Marry, St Catharine, St Rochus and St Titus amongst which the first is the Cathedral. The Greeks have also their Churches, but those so mean, that the best which is allowed them is much inferior to the poorest of those which the Romans reserve for their own use. Besides these there is not much in the City worth Observation. As to the long Siege and Storming of this City 't were needless for me to give you any account, since it has been from the very beginning traced along, and fully written by others.  
The Air of Candia is temperate enough, 
Climate,  but on that side facing Africa is something hot, and rendered unwholesome by southerly Winds: for which reason most of the Towns are built on that side of the Island which lies next to the Archipelago. 
Soil,  The Soil is exceeding good, and all kinds of Grain and Pulse take kindly well, insomuch that sometimes, one piece of ground affords two Crops in one year. Yet the Inhabitants are more inclinable to the planting and cherishing of the Vine, which they cultivate with all imaginable diligence, that being far more profitable than the propagation of Grain and other Husbandry, their Malmsey, 
Vintage.  Red and white Wines being exported every where, and reputed the best that Earth can produce. But they have two sorts of Malevaise or Malmsey, differing greatly both in taste and quality: the better sort is that which grows about Retimo, that they boil so soon as the Grape is ripe, and are very curious in the preparation and ordering of it; but that about Candia and Canea, but ordinary, for there they let the Grapes be rath ripe before they pluck 'em, and therefore boil them not: but the Wine that comes from them has a kind of slimy matter in it of which it, is not to be purified. Here I have seen the Wine-stocks grow thicker, than any where else, which is a great Argument of the excellent Soil, with which this Island is blessed; and besides that the vast bigness of the Bunches, 
Huge and delicate Grapes.  weighing mostly 8 or 10 pound a piece, and those so delicate that after I had once tasted of these could not for some years after so much as taste the Spanish. And not only Grapes, but also every other fruit the Land affords is passing good and delicate, insomuch that not only the Turkish Emperor but all the Princes and Potentates near this Island have their Fruits from hence for Table use and Banquet. Whole Groves and Woods I have seen several Leagues in compass, having little or nothing but Trees bearing the best kinds of Fruit, as Citrons, 
Vast plenty of Fruit. And of Cypress Wood  Pomegranates, Oranges, Apricocks, Figs, Almonds, Olives and many sorts of Apples, Pears, and Nuts. Cypress wood is in this noble Island in greater plenty than in Cypress itself, which they do not only use for Timber, which gives a very amiable smell, but also for Fuel. The Common pasturage which the Inhabitants neither use for Grain nor the Vine, is all grown over with Rosemary, Thyme, Camomile, Abroton, or Southern Wood, and other Herbs which the Apothecary's use. Nay, the very Weeds which with us have no sent, afford here a most amiable flavour, for which Candia is often called an Earthly Paradise. 
cattle and Fowl Wild and Tame.  All kind of cattle like well, especially Sheep and Goats which run together in incredible Flocks. Hares, Coneys, Heath-hens and Partridges abound here. The Woods and Hills are stored with 3 or 4 sorts of Deer, and the Rivers with Fish. 
Fish.  The Honey which Candy affords is preferred before all other in the World, and that by reason of the abundance of Thyme and other choice Herbs; as also the various Blossoms of Pomgranats, Citrons, Oranges, etc. and consequently Wax is a great Commodity amongst them. The Land 'tis true affoards not only Salt and Lactuaries for the Inhabitants themselves, but also for the neighbouring Islands in the Archipelago, whence they draw considerable profit. But far greater profit they have from their Silk, for Mulberries grow here in vast plenty, of which every School-lad knows the Silkworm is fed and nourished. Cotton, Wool, Honey, Wine, Vinegar and Fruits are exported hence to every Maritime Country in Europe. As for the Candians (or 
* Which St Paul seemed to take notice of in his Epistle to Titus' Bishop of Crete, citing that of Epimenides. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉. Sec. Tit. 1.12. Standia a small Island not inhabited.  Cretians) they are naturally inclined to Laziness, and more addicted to vouluptuous lives than their neighbours; They are also great affecters of a glass of Wine, yet not so easily subdued, as the Phlegmatic Hollanders. As for their Habit, those that are of the best quality ape the Venetians, the vulgar sort and Pesantry retain still the old Greekish mode, only their heads are for the most part shaved, which to supply they wear a thin Silk vail, about the breadth of an ordinary handkerchief, and above that a great, heavy hat.  
Our Proveditor having finished his Charge at Candy, we set sail and steered away for Standia an Island, lying about 2 or 3 Leagues from the North-coast, but not inhabited; However the Venetians in their ordinary Course and Traverse through the Archipelago put in here, because of its commodious Road or Bay; and therefore used as a Rendezvouz for the benefit of Communication. After we had lay at anchor a few days we weighed and sailed with the whole Fleet for the Dardanelli to give the Turks battle: But I must mind you, how that by the way we met with a Squadron of Ships, which were sent by those of Algiers, Tripoli, Thunis and Zoile, for the Assistance of the Turkish Armada. So soon as we had got sight of them, we put out Turkish Colours and hovered a little, that they might come up to us; which they seeing made all the Sail they possibly could, till they came near us, at what time they began to suspect that they had got a wrong Sow by the tail, and so endeavoured to go off: but Lazaro Mocenigo, the General seeing them steer to the starboard, made towards them, and coming within Cannon shot fired a Gun, which did so disorder them, that they thought better to stay together in one entire Fleet and try their valour, than to break their Squadron, and accordingly put themselves in a convenient Posture, in order to receive Battle. 
Lazaro Mocenigo ●ights the Argierines' Tripolezes, etc.  Upon this fell a very hot Engagement: which lasted more than a full Watch; by which time the Venetians had taken and sunk 4 Ships, 3 whereof were of their first Rate, and the remainder being 12 in all, were fain to betake themselves to the Turkish Havens, but were so disabled that they were not in a long time fit either for Sailing or Service. After this fortunate Enterprise, the General sailed directly for Zovaschi, being a strong and well fortified Sea-Town, 
Takes in Zovasch  and a Nest of Turkish Pirates, lying on the coast of Anatolia: which after a short attack we took in and plundered. From hence we departed for Tenedos where to our great Joy we had the report, which we heard before our departure from Venice confirmed; which was, That the Turks were sadly foiled in in their attacking of that Island, which we had taken in not long before (as was said Pag 91) The Sum of the Attacque was after this manner. When the Turks had got notice that Tenedos was surrendered to the Venetians, they sent a Fleet consisting of 33 Galleys, 3 Galleasses and several Brigantines to retake it, where so soon as the said Fleet was arrived they lay Siege to the Castles both by Water and by Land, 
Tenedos besieged by the Turks.  but were at last fain to remove the Siege, leaving some Hundreds of Dead behind them upon the Island, besides all the damage which the Fleet received, who also according to the relation given us must necessarily have many Dead and Wounded. When they ha● drawn off the Siege and embarked their Land-forces, the Weather grew very tempestuous, and the Sea boisterous high, insomuch that 3 Galleys and 4 Saiks were cast away and few of the men saved.  

July. The Turkish Armada comes out of the Dardanelli. The Engagement  Four months long we tarried at Tenedos before the Infidel Armade came out, which happened on the 27 of July. Their Fleet consisted of 33 Galleys (amongst which was one of an unwonted greatness called the Royalio) 9 Maons', 22 Ships and 150 Saiks, with a huge number of Soldiers and Mariners. At the Approachment the Turks weathered us and kept to the Windward, and endeavoured to break our Order, but the Venetians to get the Advantage of the Wind, tacked and turned so long that they brought the Turks to the Lee-ward, which having gained they fell upon the Enemy very hot, and with the dawning of the day made the Turks yield their Posts and betake themselves to the Cape of Troy, upon which the Fight ceased till the next morning, when the Engagement held on sharper and heavier than the day before. The Turks for a while had the advantage of the Wind, which nevertheless turned against them, as it did the year before, about the same place (mentioned Pag. 75) Meanwhile 
* Who was afterward strangled by a Sicilian. Gentlemen.  Oron then Primo Vizier of the Turkish Empire, came down to secure the Strand, with an Army of 20000 Cavalry and 80 Thousand Foot, and set down near Troy, where he had caused two Sconces to be made, as well as the shortness of this Warning would allow. The Maltheezes were the first that drew on to give battle, and so seconded by the Venetians. The Ottoman Armada knowing that the Emperor was himself a Spectator (who together with the Primo Vizier, 
JULY. 1657.  stood upon a high Tent made on purpose) behaved themselves admirably well. 
The Grand Scignior comes to See the Fight.  However the Venetians (without respect to the Land Forces which battered them heavily with their Cannon) came so close to the Enemy's Fleet, and withal plied their Guns so rank that they stranded several of their Galleys, upon which the Men stepped ashore and joined themselves to the Land Army. The Primo Vizier seeing the Fleet continually loose men, partly by their forsaking the Navy, and partly by the great Slaughter aboard the Shipping, used his utmost diligence to stop the Deserters, and recruit the Naval Army, but all to little advantage; for the Christians pursued their Enterprise with such an ardency and vigour, that they prevented them: and not to be slack when such an apt occasion presented, fired and sunk a considerable number of the Galleys and Saiks, the Turks still retiring further and further towards the Coast. And such was the Zeal of the renowned Mocenigo, when he saw them close to the Coast, he made an intercourse with 3 Ships and 5 Galleys, to fetch them off, that he made himself an unavoidable scope for the Enemy's Cannon at Land, which was so tended against his Galley that she took Fire, and himself with the valorous Marco Bembo Admiral of the Ships, 
The bold attempt of Mocenigo and Bembo in which they are both killed.  both killed with the fall of a Yard, upon which of an instant the Galley was blown up with 400 Souls aboard. This fatal mischance was seconded by another, which was a Galley that sank outright. This was all the loss that the Venetians suffered, as to Shipping in general. The Turks lost 6 Galleys, 4 Ships, 4 Mahons and 50 Saiks. The rest drew off endeavouring to conjoin with the Land-forces where the Proveditor Badoer, who by due course and reversion carried the Standard of S. Mark, gave them an egregious blow, and sunk, burned and and took several Galleys and Saiks; which ended, the Venetians set sail for Tenedos, where they repaired their damages. The Turks according to their own confession lost between 8 and 9 Thousand Men beside 600 and odd Captives, amongst whom was an eminent Bashaw, and delivered 567 Christian Slaves.   

CHAP. IX. The Venetian Armade appear before Napoli di Malvazia, where they attack a Redoubt, which is surrendered. The City treats with the Governor. The Fleet appears before Santorini; 2 terrible Earthquakes: Wine good and cheap. The Author sent ashore to buy Provision. The Fleet under Sail. The Turks come upon the Island, & the Author in danger of being made Slave; hidden by the Greeks, and brought Embro to with a Bark. Arrival before Nicsia, The Ruins of Apollo's Temple. Arrival at Metelino, it's Situation and Strength; plenty of Marble, Cypress wood, Wine, and cattle. Nicsia the Winter-haven for the Turkish Galleys. S. Georgia de Scyro. Delos: Relics and Ruins of Heathenish Temples and Images of Apollo, Minerva and Diana. The Castle of Tenos blown up with its own Powder. The Island Milo, it's Situation, Strength, Harbours, Inhabitants, Religion, store of Provision and Victuals. The Ship De Princes, springs a leak. The Author goes aboard a Privateer, leaves her and goes for Holland.  

JULY. 1668.  AFter we had repaired our Damages, caulked and trimmed our Ships and Galleys, refreshed and supplied ourselves with necessaries, 
Arrival of the Fleet before Napoli di Malva●ia.  we left Tenedos, and came before Napoli di Malvazia with our whole Fleet, consisting of 36 Ships of War, 6 great Galleasses, and 40 Galleys; some of which last belonged to Rome, and others to Maltha.  
Napoli di Malvazia is a City situate in the Bay of Morea, right over against Canea, on a barren Rock, close to the main Continent, to which it is annexed with a stone-bridge, upon that was a strong Redoubt, fortified with 12 large Brass Guns, which stood very well for the safeguard of the Town, and served in place of a Citadel. Our General immediately gave order to approach the said Redoubt with our Galleasses, 
The Redoubt battered,  and break it with our Cannon; which was accordingly done. The whole day we lay battering it on both sides, with a strenuous resolution, till towards night the Soldiery within saw that they could not hold out any longer to defend themselves, left the Fortlet, and retreated into the Town; which we perceiving scaled the Walls and took away the Ordnance. The rest of the Ships and Galleys drew up close to the Key, 
and scaled.  where the Ordnance (from the Top of a Rock where they were placed, and in which they repose their main Trust) could do us no mischief, for they ever shot beyond us. When we had made a great Breach through the Wall, the General gave Charge that the Soldiers, with the help of some of the Mariners should storm the Town that night. Upon this mandate all the best and most resolute Seamen jointly with the Soldiery, went ashore and entered the City, but the Governor sensible, that the Redoubt was disabled, the Bridge broken down, Communication hindered on the Land side, the whole Fleet before the Town on the Waterside, our Men in the City, the Garrison scarce of Men, and summarily not in a capacity to defend himself, at last puts out a white Flag, and so treated with the General: but what the sum or purport of that Treaty was, we could not learn, for the matter was held privy; and whether the General had betrayed his Trust, in making of a disadvantageous Covenant for lucre's sake, or some other strange affair occurred at that time, I cannot resolve my Reader; certain I am that a Truce was made between them, for we fired not a Gun after the Deputy left the Ship. It seemed to us no small wonder, that so brave an Enterprise should be abandoned at such a rate, without so much as repairing the loss, that the Commonwealth suffered in this short Attacque, especially, that being one of the most eminent and absolutely the most convenient Place for an Asylum, or refuge, upon occasion: and not only commands all the maritime Towns of Canea, but is likewise the only Magazine of the whole Land, through which all Wares and Merchandises are transmitted, coming from Sea; and is in short the Key of that Gulf. But this is a Chapter too hard for me to read, and the mysteries of such Politicians are sometimes so abstruse, as every head cannot penetrate or unriddle.  
When we had removed the Siege of Napoli di Malvazia, 
Zantorini.  we set sail for Zantorini, which is a fertile Island, but subject to Earthquakes and influence of Meteors. In the year of Grace 1507 happened a dreadful Earthquake, which destroyed one Moiety of the Place, and subverted all the Strand-countrey: and afterwards in the year 1653 happened another, which destroyed another Mediety, or half of what was left, at what time not only Men and Beasts, but also whole Mountains and Villages were washed away with the inundation of the Sea. There are at this day many of the Inhabitants which are strucken blind with Lightning. It is bad coming to anchor about this Island, by reason of the steepness near the Coast, having within a Pistol-shot from the shore upwards of 70 or 80 fathom Water. Here is the Staple for Cotton-stockings, which are fine and very well woven, and so cheap that you may buy them at 6d d a pair single. Wine is here likewise incredibly cheap and good, being sold at half a Piece of eight the Bariglias, and all kinds of Provision proportionably. 
* Which is a measure containing about 6 quarts less than half a Hogshead.  This moved our Commander to send me ashore to buy some Sheep and Wine, and accordingly I went to a Village that was about two miles from the Fleet, where I was no sooner arrived but I heard the Admiral fire a Gun, at which I was mainly perplexed, for I knew by that, that the Fleet was ready to depart, and ran as fast as ever I could towards the shore: but before I could come there, they were under sail. When I saw that there was no hopes to get to the Fleet, I turned back, but not without fear of being taken, knowing that this Island was but 3 or 4 leagues from Scio, and that it was often visited by the Turks. After I had been here 4 days and as many nights, came 2 Turkish Brigantines to receive Contribution-money, which I understanding ran into the Woods to hide myself, but it seems one Pickthank or other had told them that a Venetian was left ashore (perhaps to excuse them of their Quota) they began to make inquiry after me; and would needs insist upon the Greeks to be responsible for me; they told them that I had made my escape by night in a Bark; which nevertheless would not pacify them till they had daubed the Captain in the Fist, which closed his Eyes and shut his Mouth effectually. So soon as the Brigantines were out of sight, the Greeks fearing some trouble might ensue, brought me with a Bark to Embro, where the Venetian Fleet lay, and gave me my Provision aboard with me which I had bought for 32 Rixdollars. Upon my arrival the Commander gave them 2 Pieces of eight for their pains, and glad he was to receive me so, and they no less joyful to be rid of me; for the Turks had already taken a Civil Magistrate of the Greeks into custody, with his Son being but a child, who might upon my being found there, after they had denied me, have had hard measure; and they nevertheless forced to deliver me up at last; which if they had, the Admiral of the Venetians would have plundered the Town, and taken them all for Slaves; so that these poor People are in a worse and a more pitiful state under both, than they would be, if they were entirely under one.  
While we lay before Embro, the Fleet was divided into two parts, and sent for the respective Islands to get in the Contributions: the one part went for Stampalia, or Astypalaea, which is one of the Cycladeses, and from thence to Nicsia, an Island about 7 Dutch leagues in length, 
Arrival at Nicsia.  and as many in breadth, for it is almost four Square: the North-side is montanous, but towards the South flat and arable. On this Island are several Relics of Gentilism and Idolatry; and amongst those a famous Temple, in times past sacred to Apollo, now dedicate to S. Salvador. On the South we saw the Ruins of another Temple, built also to the Honour of Apollo. The Inhabitants are Greeks, 
Ruins of Apollo's Temple.  jews and Turks, who are sedulous Planters and Cultivaters of the Vine, the land answering their Industry with a fertile Soil. The City which is called also by the name of Nicsia, lies on the East-side of the Island, having a very fair and commodious Haven, presenting for all Winds, and fit to contain Ships of the greatest burden. Here is found a kind of black stone which is held in great esteem, not much unlike the vulgar Touchstone, called by the Italians, Smeriglio.  
In our Course through the Aegean Sea we touched at Parus, Lero, 
Arrival at Metellino, or Mytilene  Embroa, Psyra, and visited Metellino, where I had been the year before, and was transported thence to the Venetian Armada, in a Candian Tartan, making by the way a good booty, as you will find more amply related in Pag. 76 & seqq. but now I found better opportunity and leisure to take notice of the Island than before. Metellino lies in 48 degr. near the main Continent of Greece, and from the nearest point hardly 3 English leagues distant. The City which also bears the same name, is situated on the Northwest side of the Island, fortified with a Castle that commands 2 Havens, and is called Moliva.  
There are besides this several strong Holds and fortified Places throughout the whole Island. The South-and North-sides are Champain Land; but the East and West for the most part hilly and montanous, affoarding rich Quarries of white and black Marble; and about the Centre of the Land it is woody, and mostly grown over with Cypress Trees. The arable part of the Land which is tilled, is of a good Soil, and affords plenty of Corn, of which they make two Sorts of bread, the one they call Trachana and the other Bouchourt, either of which is more durable than our Ship Biscake. They make an excellent sort of red Wine, which the Turks, notwithstanding the voice of their Koran, greatly covet and swallow when they can have it. The Pastures swarm with all kinds of cattle both great and small; in which, 
Good store of cattle.  by reason of their very great abundance, they hold commerce with the Islands of the Aegean Sea; but especially in a breed of small Horse they have, which are in good esteem abroad.  
After we had done our affairs at Mytilene we went for great Scio but being by the way warned of some Fishermen, that the Turks had landed a great number of Soldiery there, we sailed past the Island, and put in at S. Giorgio di Scyro which is a small Island lying in 47 degr. 23 min. being almost of a triangular form, 
Scyro.  where the Inhabitants follow the Vineyard. 
Delos.  Leaving Scyro, we sailed directly for Delos, which now for the most part goes by the name of Sdilly and lies in the latitude of 47 degr. The Island is at present of no great note: only that it is visited by the curious in Antiquities. Here we found many Ruins of Temples, and Altars, sacred to Heathenish Deities, and the Image of Apollo, which is in two pieces, whereof (as the Greeks told us) the English sawed off the Head, and carried it away. But so much as remains of it I have drawn, as may be seen in the Print. There appear yet the Ruins of 3 Temples more, to wit, of Apollo, Minerva and Diana, besides several pieces of Marble and Alabastre, in various figures of Animals, as Lions, Leopards, and the like. Here are also many Quarries of a rich sort of Marble, and various kinds of Alabastre. Provision may be had at very easy rates, Hares and Coneys are for their plenty held in disesteem by the Inhabitants. Agriculture is a thing quite out of use, but the greatest profit it yields the Venetians is the conveniency of the Haven, which serves them for a Rendezvouz.  

The Castle of Tenos blown up with its own Powder.  Between Delos and Andros lies the Island Tenos, where there is a Castle built upon a high Hill, that seems of itself sufficient enough to defend the whole Island. In the year 1656 was the greatest part of this Castle blown up with its own Powder by Lightning, at what time, I was in the Fleet not far from Delos, and saw it. I believe also that a great part of this Island is overflown with the Inundation of the Sea, as Zantorini, or rather sunk: for when we came to anchor at 26 fathom Water, we wrought all we could to weigh, but thought verily that the Cable would break before any anchor would lose; at last it was resolved to try once more for the last, and if it would not then come, to cut the Cable, but at last the anchor came, bringing a great piece of a Wall with it. In the Gentile age was a Bath at Tenos, 
JULY. 1668.  where every one of what rank or quality soever he was, must wash himself, or otherwise, it was not lawful for him to enter the Temples of Apollo, Minerva, or Diana. Tenos is of itself fruitful enough and would produce more grain than indeed it does, if the Inhabitants were inclined to that Tillage, but they find more profit in Silk, having large Woods of Mulbeery Trees, so that this Island is the chief place for Silk Stockings in the Levant.  
After we had stayed a few days at Tenos, we set sail further up, 
Milo, it's Situation  and by the way put in at Milo. Which lies in 37 degr. and 21 min. It is in length about 7 Leagues, tending North and South. Amongst the many convenient Havens it hath, there is one on the Western coast, 
Havens.  where Ships may ride in the hardest weather that is, 
Villages,  without either Anchor or Horser. The Villages on this Island are very neat and close built; and is also fortified with two strong Holds which command the Sea on each side the Island. 
Strength.  The Inhabitants are some of the Greek church, but speak most Italian, 
And Religion of the Inhabitants.  for that it is much frequented by the Venetians, and other Italians of whom the Women of this Island (as they say) learn the Language between Sheets, which their wanton deportment seems to verify Common fame gives Milo the bell for able Seamen and Fishers, who for both those faculties do the Venetians no small service. And here is the prime place for the Armada to Water at, where they also generally provide themselves with Bread, Oil, Salt, Wine and Vinegar. There is also much Honey found in this Island, but wild, in the Rocks and Hollow-Trees.  
Thus Traversing to and again, to and from the Islands, our Ship, The Princes, grew very leaky, so that we were afraid, that if we should be taken in a Tempest she would not hold out, which our Mate observing, willed the Commander to acquaint the Admiral with her Condition, which he did; and thereupon we were dismissed, and the Venetians aboard us received order to go aboard other Ships. Having taken our leave of the Fleet with a Gun or 2, we sped us for Venice, where not without much difficulty we arrived. Here I took my leave of the Ships-folk, and went into a Privateer called the St. john, which was first intended for Legorn: but by the way understanding that our Captain, whose name was Herman Been had 3 Commissions and went for a General Caper, I took my leave of the Gentleman, 
JULY 1657.  so soon as we arrived at Leghorn; the more because he had already made a beginning, and converted the Goods entrusted him by some Merchants into a Prize and Booty, thought it therefore best to leave him betimes, lest I should be brought with him to pay the shot. The Captain seeing that others, with me, were resolved to leave the Friggat, and so consequently, he in danger of being betrayed, and to be called to an account for his Villainy, begins to set sail, but by an Order from the Duke, the Ship was arrested at the instance of Captain W. van der Saar, and Capt. de wild who then lay at anchor in that Haven. The Ship was brought up and chained, the Ships-folk set free, and the Captain himself committed to Custody, where for some time h● remained: till afterward coming for Holland was taken Prisoner; but what became of his Friggat I could never come to hear. After I had been at Leghorn 2 or 3 days, I hired myself aboard Mr, Peter Veldmuys; with whom, after many perilous adventures, I returned home to my native Country.    

THE THIRD VOYAGE of JOHN STRUYS.  

CHAP. I. The Author undertakes his Third Voyage for Moscovia. The Names of the Officers and others employed with him on that Journey and Voyage. Their Difficulties in going out. Arrival at Riga, with a Description of the Town, and their Departure from thence. The Nature of the Lifelanders their Houses, Customs, Condition, Religion, and acquaint form of an Oath. Arrival at Wolmar, with a Description thereof. Their difficult Travels through Lifeland.  
THus by Divine Preservation I arrived in my own Country, 
SEPT. 1668.  after the exposal of my Body to so many Jeopardies and Perils, and now began to weigh the great Felicity of a settled life, and the many Dangers which attend such a manner of Living as I had unadvisedly made choice of, to the great discontent of my Friends and Alliance: I therefore purposed with a new Resolution to follow my honest Vocation at home, and enjoy that Tranquillity of Body and Mind, which I then preferred in my Thoughts beyond a restless and disquiet Wand'ring abroad. Pursuant to this my Intention I married after I had been about 6 Months at home, and so continued in that state, for the term of 10 years during which time I found but poor advancement in my Fortune, and mean Products of so many years hard labour and toil; so that I resolved to take the very first opportunity I met with to see what was reserved for me in the Cabinet of Chance abroad. and,  
In the year 1668, I came to understand that some Gentlemen were sent from the Czar of Moscovy to Amsterdam, to take on men into the service of the Emperor, for equipping some Ships in the Caspian Sea, and so to promote the Trade between Moscovia and Persia, by Shipping of his own, which otherwise till then was done by Persians, Tartars and other Nations, and that mostly by Land, from whence arose many Difficulties by Robberies and the like. The Conditions upon which they were taken on liked me very well, upon which I applied myself to Mr. David Butler who was to be our Leader, and to conduct us to Moscovia. After I had treated with him a little upon what Terms I did desire to go; we made an Agreement for 75 gilders per Month, for which I was to serve as Sail-maker, and to make up all the Sail-work for a new Ship and a Yacht, which was newly built in Russia. The Foremast Men had 50 gilders per Month allowed them, their Boardwages included, which was 15 gilders.  

The Names of those that went, were  
David Butler of Amsterdam, Captain.  
Lambert Helt, Master.  
William Klopper, First-Mate and Carpenter.  
john Albert's, Second-Mate.  
Peter Bartelsz, Boatswain.  
Cornelius de Vries, Gunner.  
Theodore Petersz, Carpenter's Mate.  
William Williamsz, Block-maker.  
Anthony Munster, Diamond-cutter.  
— Schack, Chirurgeon.  
Wiggert Poppes.  
Meyndert Meyndertsz.  
Cornelius' Brack.  
Else Petersz.  
jacob Trappen.  
jacob Tolk.  
Peter Arentsz, and  
john Fassely, Servant to Captain Butter.   
The Master together with the Carpenter, Carpenter's Mate, Anthony Munster, jacob Trappen and Tolk had been the year before in Moscovia. Having furnished ourselves with Provision and things necessary for the Journey, we embarked ourselves in the Ship Abraham's Offerhande, which then lay at Amsterdam and was bound for Riga, being 15 in company.  
On the 2 of September 1668 we sailed through the Pampuys, and on the 3 towards the Evening came before Enchuysen, where we put in and Shipped 50 Tun of Herring.  
On the 4 we set sail again and got the Texel, where we tarried 8 days for a good Wind: and on the 13 the Wind blowing fair all the Ships outward bound which were about 50 sail; began to weigh, and we respectiuly to take our leave of Wives and Family, for 5 years: but before we got clear of the Land, the Wind turned, so that we were fain to traverse and wind all we could to get out, in the mean time came a Ship belonging to Ter Schelling with a full drift against us, and ran her Bow-spreet through our main Sail, which was with such force that he rend our sail, and broke his Spreet-sail yard, insomuch that we were both fain to put into Ter Schelling, to repair and fit ourselves out again.  
On the 20 being clear we set sail the second time, and had a fresh gale at South and by West, which held favourably, so long till we arrived at Riga: but when we entered the Baltic Sea, it blew so hard that our Mizzen sail was all rent and unfit for use; whereupon the Master set me to work to repair the defects.  
On the 1st of October we got the Boldera, 
Arrival at Boldera.  which is the Haven or River of Riga, where we dropped Anchor. Immediately upon our arrival came the Searchers to visit the Ship, and amongst other Goods found a Parcel of contra-band Wares, and took it ashore with them, but the Master told them that it was thrown in by chance, and prayed them to be so kind as to leave it aboard, which, after he had daubed them a little in the fist, they did. The next day being under sail, we were becalmed, and fain to cast anchor half way up the River.  
On the 3 ditto we came up to the Key of Riga, where being arrived, 
Arrival at Riga.  the Master refused to pay me the moneys, he agreed with me for, to make up his sail, which was 10 Rixdollars; but on the contrary, gave me very ill Language, and told me if I had any pretence upon him the Law was open, and Judges appointed for the decision of such controversies. This great ingratitude, made me to take a course I never intended, which was to send him summons to appear in the Town hall; where upon a second citation, he made his appearance, and was condemned to pay the money, in presence of the Court.  

Riga described  Riga is an eminent Emporium lying within the Prinsdom of Lithvania, and seated in a Champain land, on the north-east side of the great River Duna. It is fortified with Walls, Bulwarks, and Ditches or Motes, populous and full of Trade, being as it were the Magazine to supply the whole Country above, with all kinds of Wares and Commodities, and is also a great Thoroughfare. By Winter they receive Goods over Land in Sledges and Wagons from Moscovia which is transmitted abroad; 
It's Commerce both by Sea and Land.  and by Summer from England, Germany, Holland, and other Places, by Shipping, which are sent that way again with the Moscovian Wagons and Sledges. The Country about Riga affords good plenty of all kinds of Provision, as Kine, Sheep, Goats, besides 3 sorts of Deer, the Sea and Rivers afford good store of Fish, and the Boors, besides their diligence in breeding up of cattle, supply other Countries with Corn, of all sorts, and Lactuaries: so that it is cheap living at or near Riga. This City was formerly within the Jurisdiction of the Kings of Poland; but was taken in by Gustavus Adolphus, King of Sweden, upon the 16 of September 1621., after a long and hard Siege, and is at this day in subjection to that Crown.  

Departure from Riga.  On the 10 ditto, we left Riga, and with our complete Company and Baggage employed 30 Wagons to bring us to Pletsko: and took up our first night's Lodging at Niew-meulen, being a Village where all the Wagons and Horses are set over a River with great Logs of Timber fastened together, 
Nieu-Meulen.  that float above the Water.  
On the 11 we proceeded again on our Journey and broke two of our Waggon-wheels, which the Waggoners repaired, and so we proceeded on our Journey. At night we came into an Inn which was so meanly provided for Bedding that we were fain to lay all night in the Wagons. The next day we traveled through a great Wood, in the midst whereof was a broad Marsh, that cost us some Hours to go over. When we were through the Wood, we passed through several little Villages, the Inhabitants whereof were a miserable silly People, hardly able to draw one leg after the other. The Women have only an old Rag, like a Plad, thrown about their bodies, 
The Lifelanders their Properties, Habit and Customs.  hardly sufficient to hide their nakedness, except a little below their ears, to let the World know, they have hair as well as other People; so that they look like so many Gypsies newly come from the famous Peak of Derby. As for their Houses they are but one degree beneath a Hog-sty and those as full of Utensils, as a Knave is full of Honesty. All that ever I could see was an earthen Pan or two, and those so clean, that I had rather fast a week than eat any thing, that has come out of them. Great plenty of cattle they have, and such as have three times as many feet as they themselves. As for Beds they have none but such as their Oxen lie upon, for when they have stuffed their Guts, they lie down upon the floor one after another, as the Nap takes them. Their Diet is suitable to all things else they have, for although they might have Venison for knocking on the Head, the Creature may live till Doomsday before they will take the pains to lift a hand to kill it, unless it be a louse, which sometimes they crush to death for change of Diet. As for their Bread it is not much unlike our Newcastle Coal for colour, but how it is of Taste I know no more than the Man in the Moon, for neither my Appetite nor Curiosity could move me to it, Cabbage they have in great abundance, which is of a Taste like Sorrel, but close and white like ours, That and Cucumbers are the main ingredients whereof these People seem to be compounded, but more especially the latter, for Cucumber attends them from the Womb to the Tomb, being held in perpetual Slavery by their Lords. They are conformable to no Laws, unless what they are forced to observe by a strict awe, which their Lords impose upon them, and enjoin them to. They are by nature obtuse and dull, inclined to Necromancy and Sorcery, but in the performance of an Exorcism, so palpably ridiculous, that I wonder how they have obtained that repute they have in the World among those, who ought to be wiser than to believe such groundless Fictions. They have no manner of Schools wherein to educate their Children, that ever I could see or hear of: neither Churches or other Houses for Religious use; so that they are brought up in the greatest Blindness and obscurity that may be. Some of them, 'tis true, will needs be called Christians, but those are they that have traveled as far as Riga, which they think is the Head of the World, yet are those so stupid, 
OCTOB. 1668.  as a Lifeland Gentleman told me, that they have learned Catechism enough, if they can but know the Church from a Dwelling house, or to pull of their Caps when they see a man with a shoulder knot pass by. Yet they are flexible enough to Idolatry by Nature, and withal superstitious. In our going through the Woods we saw a great Troop of them busy about Conjuring of a Tree, which they had tied with a Garland of twigs, creeping round about it and making a great Howling; but so soon as they saw us, took them to their Heels and away. By the Forms and Tenors of the Curses and Conjuration they seem to be sensible of a Future state and sometimes (by I know not what Tokens) presage Death; and the Soul of any that has been a disturber of the Public Quiet they deliver up to the Devil. They have a formal Oath, that they take upon divers Occasions which is thus, The Party cuts up a Turf or Sod of Earth, this he sets upon his Head and takes his stick into his Hand, Wishing if such, or such a Matter, be not so, and so, that They with their cattle may be consumed with Fire. They have besides this, other superstitious Customs, to which they are so strongly inclined by nature that they will not be better civilised, or if they happen to show themselves willing, and learn a little Urbanity it must be only for lucre's sake, and they promised something to boot to remember it, which if you forget to perform, they will forget to observe your Document. In short they are but one remove from Bruits, and so ignorant, that the most part of them thinks there is no other Land in the World besides their own.  
Two days long we went through the Woods and found it so soft and Marshy that we could hardly bring our Wagons through in safety.  

Arrival at Wolmar.  On the 14 we arrived at Wolmar where we met many Horses, Wagons, and Boors going to market with Corn and other Things. One of our Company growing weary of his Journey thought to go away in this Throng, but the Captain being informed of his Design, watched him so narrowly, that he could not meet with an Opportunity to march off.  
Wolmar, is a little, but a well-fortified Town, munited with a stone-Wall and a deep Ditch, but without Water. The Market in regard of the Poverty of the Country is very considerable, and is held twice a week. This City as appears yet by the Ruins of it, has been formerly much greater than it is at this day, but with all the Country round about has been often depopulated by the Polish and Russian Armies. It is about 18 leagues from Riga.  
On the 15 by break of Day, we set forward on our Journey, passing through a Champaign Country, and many small Towns and Hamlets. By the way we observed that the Boors had burnt up great Woods, and converted them into Pasturage and arable Ground. Afterwards we went through a large Wilderness, where we could not see the Sun, by reason of the density of the Trees, yet the way was full of Mires, and plashy. About 7 in the Evening we came to our stage, where we were to stay over night. The next morning we broke our fast, yoked the Horses, and set forward; passing over a huge River which had only a Bridge there where we were to pass over, and no where else within 20 leagues above or below: but the Bridge being old and seemingly rotten, we durst not go over all together, but one by one. When we were got over, Evening came on, and the Sky began to grow gloomy, after which followed a very great Tempest that the River swelled over the Banks and overflowed all the flat Lands, which we seeing so suddenly happen, left the common Road; for that our Land Pilot told us, that the High way was subject to such Floods with an extraordinary Inundation. After two Hours Storming, the Wether began to clear and the Pilot assured us we were not far from the Town where we were to take our night's rest, and so it happened, for just as he was speaking of it we saw Light, through the Trees, which mightily revived us for we were extreme cold and weary. The next morning we set forward for Pitsiora, and had very good Wether, but came short of the Town that night, insomuch that we were fain to lie all night in the Woods, where we gathered all the Windfalls we could find and laid them on a heap, and with dry Sticks made a huge Fire, which served not only to warm ourselves at, but likewise to affright the Bears and Wolves away, which are very bold and cruel in these Parts, as also the Muskettos, which swarm here by Millions, and annoy both Man and Beast, after an incredible rate.   

CHAP. II. Arrival at Pitsiora, and at Pletskow, A strange Passage of a hungry Bear. The spindle-bone or shank of a Giant. The Pleasant Prospects and delightsome Landships of Moscovia. Arrival at Novogorod. The Antiquity and former Glory of that City; how taken by the Moscovian, and Fortified by the Swede. Their Departure from Novogorod, Rescounter with a Company of Robbers, and Arrival at Colomna. Great abundance of Wolves. Coldness of the Climate.  

OCTOB. 1668.  ON the 30 th'. of October 1678 we arrived at Pitsiora, which lies on the Confines of Russia, and under the Protection of that Emperor. It is seated in a fair and pleasant Country, affoarding all things necessary to the sustenance of human Bodies. 'Tis true Pitsiora is no more than a Village, yet for wealthy Inhabitants, Commerce abroad and Advancement of Manufacture, surpasses any City in all that part of the Country. In passing through the Town we saw many rich Mercers and Draper's Shops; the Markets stored with all sorts of Provision, as Corn, Butter, Cheese and Fruits, with a very noble Butchery or Flesh-shambles, and the streets crowding with People from all Parts. So soon as we were arrived, there came several jewellers, who asked if we had any Pearls, or other Jewels to sell or barter.  
Having refreshed ourselves at Pitsiora; we left the Town the next day about 10 in the Morning, and about noon entered a large Wood where we found great store of Hurtless or Bilberies, that were far greater and better tasted then any I have known else where; which moved me to fall a plucking of them; but going a little way into the Wood, and making a rushing through the Thickets, up starts a huge Bear, which so affrighted me that I had hardly power to run from him; however it seemed that he was as fearful of me as I of him, for when I ran East he ran West, and glad I was to see his Bear-ship turn tails with me. This was the only Bear that ever I had seen in Lifeland, or all the way from Riga hither, but the Boors often warned us to take care of ourselves, saying that, sometimes both Men and cattle are devoured with those cruel and ravenous Beasts.  
On that Evening we arrived at Pletskou where we had Lodgings and all necessaries provided us; and on the 22 paid our Waggoners who returned for Riga.  
Pletskou, is a large City, 
OCTOB. 1678.  a great part thereof is surrounded with a wall, the rest with huge Balks like Pallizadoes, and computed about 8 [English] miles in compass. Their Houses are made slightly of Trees and pieces of Timber, let in with joints, without any Gentility or ornament. The Town itself gives a noble Prospect if you view it from without, by reason of the many Parish-Churches and Towers it has, but when you come within, it appears very ugly, the streets are irregular without Uniformity, and the Houses built after multifarious manners, so that the poorest Village, in the Low-countrieses, is a Paradise in comparison of Pletskou. 'Tis true they have some Houses of stone, but the most eminent and wealthy Citizens choose rather to live in Wooden-Houses than in those, for that they say, The latter are more wholesome. Here I happened to meet with a Hamburger, and after we had exchanged a few words together, concerning our journey from Riga, I told him of my rousing the Bear. He replied that I was happy to make my escape so, since not only men are sometimes devoured by them, but also Horses and Kine, and withal told me, how that they dig up the Graves for the Bodies of the Dead, when they are hungry. But more lamentable was a story he told me, of a She-Bear, that in the year 1656. broke by night into a House in the Country not far from thence, where she had found the Woman of the house with a sucking, Infant in the bed with her. The woman she devoured, leaving only a part of her left leg and a little of the Scalp, but the Infant was altogether missed, whence it was concluded that the Bear had eaten it up, as being young and consequently more delicate. Not long after this dismal hap, the Peasant took his Musket with him into the Woods not far from his House, with intent to shoot an Otter which haunted his Fishpond, and by the way espies a Bear, at which he levels his Musket, and hits him directly on the skull. The Bear (as the custom is when shot) rolls himself in a heap, the Peasant runs to her and finding it a Female, and her Duggs full of Milk, resolves the next day to make search for her Seat, for than he thought that her Whelps would be hungry and yell out. The day following he went out to seek the Cave, taking 2 or 3 other Peasants with him, who being about the Middle of the Wood, on the side of a hill, heard a young child cry, and following the direction of the sound, found his own Infant in the cleft of a great Rock, which he took and brought to Pletskou, to be nursed up by his Wives Sister, where out of curiosity I went to see it.  
In the Suburbs of Pletskou, was to be seen a shankbone of a Giant, 5 foot long, 
OCTOB. 1668.  which together with the whole Skeleton, was found in a Tomb of stone, by the Boors, when they were digging up the roots of Trees that they had burned up.  
On the 26th it began to freeze hard, and afterwards to snow, which made us uneasy for our delay, being constrained to wait here so long, till we received the Poddowodda, which is an Order given by his Imperial Majesty, that every Town we came at should furnish us with Horses, Wagons, Bedding, and defray our other Charges. On the 28 towards night came an Express from Moscou, and the next day we set forward, intending first for Novogorod. This part of our Journey was much more easy and delightful than that through Lifeland, which was altogether desert and Marshy, this on the contrary, inhabited and tilled.  
On the 31th we came at a great Lake before Novogorod, where we left the Sledges and were fetched over in a kind of a Cymb, or Boat which is made of a hollow tree, and by them called Knoos; of these they had two sorts, the one for Passengers, who may sit 4 or 5 at a time, the other broader, and every way larger, fit to transport Goods. This Lake is very broad but shallow, not having above 5 foot Water in most places. When we were set over, our Goods were put into Sledges, and brought after us into the Town.  
In passing through the Town we found the Suburbs far greater than the City itself, which as appears by the Ruins of the Walls, has been formerly a well fortified Place. In times past it was neither subject to the Russian, Swede, nor Polander, but had a Prince, who coined Money and ruled as absolute Sovereign, with an independent and arbitrary Power; Yea, to so high a state was it once advanced, that it was grown to a Proverb, GOD and Novogorod, who is able to withstand. Their Puissance I need not dispute, since it is well known to those that are acquainted with Geography what Sway the Princes of Novogorod have born, and what a name this City has had abroad for her Wealthy Merchants and great commerce with other Places. About the year 1477 it was besieged and stormed by Ivan Vasilowitz, Great Duke of Moscovia, who took away all the Privileges and Immunities of the Citizens: since which time their Wealth and Traffic began to decline and decay. However by reason of its commodious Situation, it retains the footsteps of its former Trade, and is especially frequented by Swedes, Danes, Hamburgers and Lubeckers, who come up the River Nerva, with their small Shipping. The chief Commodities they deal in, are Wheat, Ry, Lin-and Rapeseed, Furs, Hemp and Flax. The Country is blessed with a good Soil, and produces sufficiently enough of what is requisite to human sustenance, which is here very cheap. This is reckoned the best place in all Moscovia for River-fish, especially Pikes and Perch, Salmon they have in great abundance, as also Carp, Bream, and Sturgeon, with other kinds not commonly found in the Low-countrieses.  
Novogorod (which is as much as to say, New-town, or Newton, being compounded of the Latin word Novus, and the substantive Gorod, in the Moscovian Tongue, a City) is at this present strengthened only with a Wall of Timber, but well provided with Ammunition, and Brass Ordnance. On the one side is a strong Castle with a high stone-wall, which as then was the Residing place of the Primate or Archbishop of the West-Province, and some other Temporal Lords. The greatest Decorum and Ornament of this City is the Pomp and stateliness of the Churches and some Public Edifices, as at Pletskou, but the Houses and Private Dwellings of the Inhabitants without any Order or neatness of Structure. Between the Castle and the Town is a long wooden Bridge where the beforenamcd Ivan Basilowitz, a great Tyrant, threw in some Thousands of the Inhabitants. When you enter the Town, by that way you come within view of a famous Cloister, dedicate to Saint Anthony: which Saint they believe and will persuade you came driving on from Rome, out at the Tiber, through the Aegean Sea, the Propontis, the Negropont, the 
* Which is a Lake and has no communion with any other Sea.  Mare Caspium, and so up the Wolga to Novogorod upon a Millstone: where he met with a company of Fishers, with whom he covenanted for a certain some of Money, that the first thing they took should be his. The Fishers drew their Net, and brought up a Chest, which was full of Money, besides a Ghostly Attire, and some Books, With the money he built there a Chapel where he lies interred, and (as they tell us) his Body is yet to be seen, fresh and undecayed, by which many miracles have been done, but none can see him, or them, but such as are of their own Faith. And so much of a floating Millstone.  
In the year 1611 this City was besieged and taken in by I. de la Gardie, 
Novogorod taken in by the Swede.  the Swedish General, and in the year 1613 redelivered to the Czar of Moscovy upon Articles of Peace.  

NOV. 1668.  Upon the 8 of November we left Novogorod, having had time enough to view every Remarkable that was worthy of sight, 
Departure from Novogorod.  and about 2 a clock in the afternoon arrived at a village called Bruynitz where we stayed, and took up our Lodging for that night. The next Morning we took fresh Horses, but the snow was so melted with the Sun that we were fain to take Wagons, and leave the Sledges: but the way was so miry, that we had much ado to get the Horses through, for the Earth there is of a tough clay. About 8 in the Evening we came to Miedna, which is a poor Village, and could hardly afford us Hous-room for that night.  
On the 10 th'. we had bad travailing way, being for the most part marshy and full of Bogs, with Planks and trees laid over to make them passable, which totered and shaked so that our Wagons were often out of order, but were as often mended by the Peasants who by continual use are very expert at it. By the way we saw abundance of Squirrels and Foxes which run together in Troops, yet so shy that we could not come within musquet-shot of them. That night we got Gankrezza, a handsome little Village, where we refreshed and supplied ourselves with necessaries for our Journey.  

Rescounter with a company of Robbers.  The next day being the 11th of Novemb. we set forward on our Journey, and travelling thro' the Woods, we were surprised with a Party of Highway men, well mounted and masked, who demanded, what we were? We replied, that we were Dutch and servants to the Emperor. They hearing that, were in a doubt whether they should plunder us, or not; but at last road off and bade us adieu. It was our opinion that they were afraid that our Company was stronger, and that the rest followed us, for they were better armed and mounted than we, besides the Wagons we had to take care of, or otherwise in all probability they would not have neglected such a fair booty, that being, as we were told by the Waggoners, one of the most dangerous places in all the Country. That night we took our rest at jazel-bitza, being very bad and snowy weather.  
On the 12 ditto, we took in fresh Horses, and put our Baggage and Movables into Sledges because of the snow, passing through thick Woods, and a vast Wilderness, before we came at Gamzymnagoru where we were to take up our Lodging.  
On the thirteenth we changed Horses and set forward on our Journey, passing first through a thick Wood, and afterwards, came into champain Land, which was dry, level, and tilled as far as we could see. By the way we saw many small Villages, but at night came into Colomna, which was the fairest and best Village I had hitherto seen in Moscovia: the Inhabitants are reputed wealthy, and live in very good fashion. We came pretty early to our Stage, having had very good way, and reasonable fair weather, so that we had time enough to take a view of the Town, Our Pristaf, or Guide, who spoke good Nether Dutch went with us to show what was worthy of remark, and very courteously resolved us in any thing we desired to be satisfied about.  
On the 14th we went through a great Wood where we saw abundance of Wolves playing together, which, when we would have taken aim to shoot with our Long Guns, they ran inward and took the Wood Our Pristaf told me that they knew us to have Firelocks about us, that being the only safeguard to travel with, without which they will not fear to assail Horse and Man, and sometime lay skulking in the way side, where of a sudden they run out and prey upon Passengers. Towards the Evening it began to freeze hard, that we were fain to step out of the Hurdles, and walk afoot.  
On the 16th we got Waizna, and from thence departed for Gam-woldoka, where we tarried 4 days to rest ourselves. In the mean while it froze very hard, and I with another of our Company went out to ride upon Scates, upon which an infinite number of Men, Women and Children, yea the Priests themselves, came running out to see us.   

CHAP. III. A Quarrel with the Russians, Eight Dutch Merchants murdered in a Wood Arrival at Tweer, Another Rescountre with a Party of Robbers. Money sent from Moskow. Pursuit of their Journey. They enter Moscou. Their good Reception. The great Bear-Garden. Wolf and Bear-baiting. Death of the Empress, and the pompous Exequys.  
ON the 22th after we had sufficiently taken breath, we set forth, having fresh Horses provided us, and so entered a great Wood, where we saw great swarms of Squirrels fly from Tree to Tree; 
SEPT. 1668.  as also abundance of Pheasants and Partridges, which the Peasants take and sell for a mean price. About the Evening we came to Wuidra Pusk, where we remained that night, but could not get any Lodging fit to entertain us either for Hous-room or Victuals, this being yet a poorer Village than that of Miedna. At this place happened a Quarrel between one of our Company and a Russ, the first having taken the others Axe, for that the Russ had stole some Tobacco from him: which being made known to the Company, they struck and misused the poor Russ, after an unsufferable manner, which Capt. Butler resented very ill, not willing to give the Russians any disgust. But above all the people in the World there are none that covet Tobacco so much as they do, and will be sure to steal it, if they cannot otherwise come by it, although they were sure to lose their Heads for it.  
On the 23 by break of Day, we set out and entered another thick Wood Here they showed us some Graves where they told us, 8 Dutch Merchants were buried, who had been murdered by Robbers. When we were got thro' the Wood we went over a fair Pasture-ground, and saw divers Boors Houses by the wayside. In the Evening we arrived at Torstock, which we found to be but a small, yet well-built City, although it appeared greater, from the Number of Towers which we saw, when at a distance, having above 30 Churches and Chapels within the Walls. Here we unloaded our Sledges and left them, putting our Goods aboard some small Shipping that was provided for us, and sailed down the River to Troetzka Miedna where we took in some necessary Provisions. That night pretty late we came to Tweer which is Seated upon the River Wolga, which River with many windings and turnings runs to seek the Caspian Sea, into which its disgorges its self. Tweer is something greater than Torstock and is built on the side of a Hill from whence it has its name. Here is also the Place where the River of Torstock incorporates with the Wolga making a great and loud noise where the Floods are hurried in together. This City like Torstock makes a greater Show abroad than it does within; being neither well built nor at all fortified, save only with a Wall of Wood and 2 or 3 Brass Cannon on the Land side. Here we took out our Baggage and laid it again upon Sledges, taking our way through the Woods where we were assailed by two Russians a foot, but upon what account I know not. 
DECEM 1668.  First they began to make a quarrel, and so boldly offered to strike with their Axes, saying, that they were upon their own Ground, and that we were a parcel of Rogues and Vagabonds etc. To which some of our Company who could speak the Language, prayed them not to molest us, as they tendered their Welfare, and that we had no time to stand disputing, and answering their impertinent Objections. This not availing, or persuading them to be quiet, but rather made them worse, for they came closer and closer to us: which Capt. Butler observing fell a caning them, whereupon they retired a little, as if they would go away, but all on a sudden came running in upon us full drive with their Axes, upon which three of our Company leveled their Muskets, but the Captain forbade to fire, and let the Mastive loose upon them. The Mastive flies directly at one of them, and had him so fast by the Throat, that we had much ado to get him off: the other seeing his Mate so hard put to it, ran away as fast as he could, but the Dog being loose flew after him, and tore off his left ear; and had we not done our endeavour to take him off, had rend him all to pieces. So soon as we had got rid of them we proceeded on our way, and at night came to Gorodna, where we stayed till morning.  
On the 24 ditto we went forward, passing over 2 Rivers, where we came to a Village called Sawidowa, 
Saulka Spaz.  and at night came to Saulka Spaz which was our Stage. Here we provided ourselves again with fresh Horses, but not without much difficulty, for in the mean time we were very uncivilly treated by the Inhabitants, whom we found mightily inclined to quarrel with us, although without occasion.  
On the 25 we took our leaves of Saulka Spaz going over a large plain, and at night came to a village called Klien, 
Klien.  where for want of Moneys we were forced to stay, till we had an Express from Moscou which came not before the 4 of December following, at which time came also one of the Domestics of the Heer van Sweden, Kinsman to Captain Butler bringing the unwelcome news of his Master's Sickness whom the Physicians judged to be past recovery. The Captain upon the opening of the Letter was sadly dejected, and immediately took Horse and road post for Moscou, leaving us Order the next day to follow with the Baggage. In the mean time it began to snow hard, insomuch that we were forced to tarry 6 days at Klien. On the 11 we set forward having fair Wether, which at our setting out seemed to be durable. On this days Journey we met with, Rivers which we were to pass over that hindered us not a little; by reason that the Floats were so little, not able to carry above 3 or 4 Horses at a time with Sledges and Wagons, At night we arrived at Serkisowo, where we took up our Night-lodging. In the mean time it froze so hard, that we were all benumbed, and fain to run after the Wagons to keep ourselves Warm.  
On the eleventh ditto, we went through several thick Woods of Juniper, where we saw abundance of Foxes playing together in the Sun. About 3 in the afternoon we arrived at Nicholo Direverno, from whence we could see the long-wished-for Moscou. About Evening we entered the Suburbs, where by one of our own Nation we understood that the Here van Sweden was deceased, and that the Ship was fit for Launching.  
On the 12 th'. we had order to come into the City, and had Apartments provided us near the House of the Heer van Sweden. Our Landlady had so little satisfaction in the Guests that were appointed to have quarters with her, that she addressed herself to Court, to desire that we might be brought some where else, but instead of obtaining her Request, was sent home with a hundred strokes on the Ribs for her pains. When she came in, she ran into a back-room, where was the Image of St. Nicholas painted upon a Plank, and falling down prostrate before it, shed a shower of Tears. However she was forced to content herself for 14 days longer, during which time we made good cheer, and spared not for Fuel in the Stoves. And albeit the Woman was so dissatisfied at our being there, yet her Husband could have wished us there the whole year round, for our Brandy and Tabacco sake.  
On the 27 we had order to go into the House of the late deceased Gentleman, even now remembered, which was a very commodious House and provided with a great 
* Or Cackel.  Stove, which was by reason of the bitter Wether, very welcome to us; the more because the said House was well furnished with Wood, and other fuel for the Winter. We stayed here three weeks, during which time there was care taken for what we had need of; when that time was expired we received sudden Orders, forthwith to depart for our wharf at Astrachan.  
On the 19 of january we brought our Baggage aboard a small Ship, 
JAN. 1669.  that lay about 3 Miles without Moscou. At this Place was the Court of the Emperor's Sister, being a fair Palace, but of Wood, built after a acquaint and artificial manner. Here was also the Emperor's Bear-Garden, being accidentally when we were there a great Concourse of Gentry, from Moscou, and other places to see the Pastime, and the Evening before, came the Emperor with the whole Court and Retinue. The Theatre was only environed with Stakes and Pales, that the People might also see, that were without. Before they began were brought out about 200 Wolves and Bears, and almost twice the number of Dogs; all which were drawn in their Kennels set upon Sledges. The Emperor, and the prime of his Nobles sat in a Gallery made on purpose in a very convenient place, to see on every side. So soon as the Emperor was set, a sign was given, upon which a little Wolf and an old Bear were turned out loose together, that after they had encountered about half a quarter of an Hour, were parted, which notwithstanding their being in the heat of the Fight, were easily brought asunder and led to their Kennel. The Wolves were afterwards engaged with Dogs of which many lay dead upon the place, and others so wounded that they were no more fit for use.  
On the 23 of February, one of our company married with a Tartarian maid, who had been taken Captive when she was a Child and brought up in the Christian Religion, by the Heer van Sweden, who taught her to write and speak Netherdutch, both which she did expertly well. And a day or two after was another of our Company married with a Lubekker, both these two went with their Husbands to Astrachan.  
On the 13 of March died the Empress in Childbed who by reason of her great Charity, Piety, and the best of Virtues, 
Death of the Empress.  was much lamented by the Common People, who oftentimes in distress were accustomed to address themselves to her, as a Mediatrix. The next day she was interred with great Pomp and magnificency, for it is not their Custom as in other Country's to embalm the Corpse, or to let it lie in State. On each side the way stood the Guards, 
The Funeral.  but none followed or went before; except some of the chief Personages about Court who walked a soft pace. The Hearse was cowered with a rich Canopy of cloth of Gold, having Tassels and Fringe suitable, born up by 8 young Lords. After the Hearse followed a Train of Noblemen, led by the first Ministers of State who bore a Bag of money which the said Empress on her Deathbed had bequeathed to the Poor. 
MAR. 1669.  These followed next to the Emperor and his two Sons; who were apparelled in a Garment, lined with Black Fox skins, which is a Fur of very high esteem. The Emperor and his two Sons were supported each by two Gentlemen. There were also the several Ministers of Foreign Courts present, who were attired after the manner of their own Country, these went on each side the Hearse at a distance, and after all followed an innumerable Train of Citizens and Foreign Merchants, but those without any Order. On this manner the Corpse was brought into a Cloister which she herself had founded, and there committed to the Earth.   

CHAP. IV. Situation of Moscou. It's Divisions and Wards. Kitay-Gorod the first City. The great number of Churches and Cloisters. High Towers. Noted Humility and Obedience of a Russian Gentleman. The greatest Bell in the World at Moscou. The Church of Jerusalem, Zaar-gorod the second, Skorodom the third, and Strelitza Slowoda the fourth Town. Great number of Houses within the City Moscou. A great Fire, whereby many Houses were consumed. The coldness of the Climate. Diseases proper to the Country. Fertility and Products of the Land.  
BEing constrained to tarry some time at Moscou against our will, it gave me opportunity to take a view of the Town, and to make what observations I could during the time of my abode there, which I shall according to my best knowledge impart to the Reader.  

Moscou its Situation and state  Moscou is the Metropolitan, or Capital City of Moscovia and the Imperial City of Russia, and all that is within the Jurisdiction of the Emperor, whose Empire is bounded on the North with the white Sea, on the East severed from the Samoieds, and other Tartarian Countries, on the South it has the Mare Caspium, and on the West, part of Poland, Lifeland, and Sweden. So that the large and wide Dominions of the Czar, are extended as well into the Asian as the European Continent.  
The City of Moscou (which seems to have its name from the noble River Moscqua) lies in 50 degr. 37 min. Northerly Latitude. It is a very large City, and computed to be about 30 or 35 English miles in compass, yet was almost twice as great, before it was taken in and depopulated by the Tartars. It gives a very fair prospect from without by reason of its many Towers and high Buildings. This City is divided into 4 wikes or Wards, to wit, Kitay-gorod, or middle City, Zaar-or Czar-gorod, the Emperor's City, Skorodom and Strelitza Slowoda. These several Divisions seem rather so many distinct Towns or Cities whereof 
* Perhaps from Cathaia.  Kitay-gorod stands in the midst, and is environed with a high wall, which they call Crasna Stenna, that is, Red Wall. It is seated between 2 Rivers, to wit Moscqua on the South, and the Neglina on the North, which are united behind the Palace. The Palace together with its Appendences, to wit, the Wall, Horn-works, Crescents and other Fortifications is the larger part of the Kitay-gorod, called also Crim-gorod; being well provided with Men and Ammunition. In the midst of this Palace is a very stately Church, in which we saw a Silver branched Candlestick, formerly presented to the Czar by the Ambassador of our States. Besides this Church is another dedicated to the Archangel, where are to be seen the Tombs of those of Imperial blood, as also Triotzis Maria and that of St. Nicholas which are both very sumptuous. Those which are in Kitay-gorod without the Palace are also reputed the best and fairest in all Moscou, being reckoned 56. Besides the Churches which are within the Walls of the Palace are 2 very beautiful Cloisters, the one for Young Gentlemen, and the other for Ladies, who have resolved to live a monastichal Life; although the former may rather go under the denomination of an illustrious School, because it is appointed for the Education of the Young nobility in all kinds of Literature and good Manners, who at 16 Years have a choice preferred them, whether they will lead a Ghostly or a Secular Life: but that for the Ladies, dispenses not with such a Freedom, but all that are admitted must continue durante vitâ. In the middle of this Palace, or rather Fort, is a high Tower, which the Russians call Ivan Velike, that is Great john being covered with Copper and double guilt. This is that Tower, 
This Story has been recorded of another Potentate, but 'tis no great matter.  on whose Top the Emperor Boris Gudenow (as is to be seen in their Chronicles) brought a Persian Ambassador to view the City Moscou, and amongst other discourse began to speak of the great Loyalty and Obedience of some subjects to their Sovereigns in past ages: Whence the Emperor took occasion to say) So faithful are my subjects from the highest Bojar, to the meanest Vassal, that there is not one of them who would refuse to throw himself praecipitantly from the Top of this Tower, if I thought good to command: and thereupon calls a Bojar, or Lord, whom he instantly commanded to throw himself headlong down, which after he had taken his Leave of his Imperial Majesty and those that were with him, jumped off from the highest pinnacle, where he was taken up dead, buried with greated Solemnity, and his Children promoted to the greatest Places of Trust, in which they and their Descent continue till this day.  

The great Bell  Besides this there is yet another Tower and one of the widest that ever I have seen in my life, in which is the greatest Bell without doubt in the World, weighing 394000 lb. and the Clapper 10000 lb. I measured it and found it 23 foot Diameter, and 2 foot solid metal. It is as much as 50 strong men can move, and that only so as may just be perceived. It is seldom rung, and that only upon Festival days, or when any Foreign Prince or Minister of State desires it. When they intent to do it at any extraordinary time, they make proclamation through the Town, by which warning the Citizens take down all the Glasses and Earthen Ware, for it makes all tremble and shake.  
There are besides the Imperial Court several other spacious Palaces for the Bojars, or Nobility, as also for the Spiritual Lords, amongst which that of the Patriarch is the most magnificent. Without Kitay-gorod, directly before the Palace of the Czar, is one of the fairest Churches (I must ned's say) that I have seen in all my Travels, 
Jerusalem Church.  which is built after the model of the Temple of jerusalem, from whence it has that Name. Near unto this church is the great Market having Shops of all Wares and Merchandises that may be imagined, but every Shopkeeper has his own Row or Street, so that people of one Dealing have all their Shops together, and by themselves. In this part of the City dwell likewise the ablest Merchants [Kneesen] and other Persons of note, who dwell in stone houses to preserve their Goods, if a Fire should happen.  
Zaar-gorod which is the second part of Moscou encompasseth Kitay-gorod almost in the form of a Crescent, which is also environed with a huge Wall, which they call Biela Stenna, that is, The white Wall. Zaar-gorod is divided into two parts by the River Neglina, which runs thro' the midst of it. Here is also a famous Founding-House for casting great Bells and Ordnance, as also the Emperor's stable. Near the River is a Beast-market, and a famous Butchery or Flesh-shambles, where you find not only Beef, Veal, Mutton, Pork, Lamb, Venison, etc. but also Horseflesh to sell. Corn, Meal, Butter, Cheese and other Provision is here good, cheap, and very plentiful.  
The Third City which is Skorodom, embraces Czar-gorod on the East, North and West-sides likewise in the form of a Crescent. In this City, or Ward, is the House-market, where at a low price you may buy a House, of what greatness you please. These Houses are made of Square pieces of Timber notched and let into each other, which when you have bought you can disjoint and bring it where you list upon Sledges, that amongst many inconveniencies has this one Conveniency, that if a Citizen has his House burned he may be every day supplied with a new, which (considering the old is brought to Ashes) may without much cost, be placed where the other stood; whereas on the contrary, we are often forced to stay sometimes a year or more before the Rubbish be taken away and a convenient House built in lieu of the old. Besides that conveniency, they have another, which is, that at what time any House happens to take fire, and any probable danger of breaking out, the Neighbours upon timely notice have their Houses taken in pieces and removed as if they were but Tents.  
The fourth and last Wike is Strelitza Slowoda, 
Strelitza Slowoda  which reaches out toward the South, over the River Moscqua, and towards the Tartarian Country. Here is the placc where the Soldatesque are inquartered, which they call Strelitzen, from whence this Part of Moscou has its name. It is very well fortified with Bulwarks, and other Fortifications.  
The number of the Houses within the four Divisions and the Suburbs, according to their computation are said to be about 95000, the Palace and all its appendencies excluded. The Churches, and Cloisters, wherein they preach are 1700. Amongst this great number of Dwelling-houses you find few or none, but what are altogether of Wood, except some Merchant's Houses in Kitay-gorod, who as we have already said, build mostly of Stone for the better security of their Goods. They use no Chimneys as we do for fires, but great Cackels, or rather Ovens; made altogether of stone, which sometimes being over heated, or by the negligence of the People, who are great affecters of Brandy, is the occasion of setting their Houses on fire, as it happened about 6 Weeks before our arrival there, at what time, by the negligence of a poor Woman, happened a most dreadful Conflagration, 
A great Fire in Moscou.  that reduced about 35 Thousand Houses to ashes, and that in the best part of the City, which besides an incredible loss of House-furniture, Merchandise and the like, there were many children and impotent People killed. The Dutch Merchants, who had mostly their Residence near the place where the Fire first broke out, sustained an incredible loss. 'tis true the Houses are upon such occasions removed with as much ease as ours are blown up, but if the Timber be knotty the Sparks and Cinders fly abroad and kindle other Houses at an incredible distance, which being covered with dry Planks are not so easily extinguished, The Czar upon consideration of the frequent Fires has appointed a party of the Strelitzers, to be quartered in several places, at a due and convenient distance from each other throughout the 4 Wards; who are continually to be at hand upon such occasions. Now by reason of the great scarcity of Water in Moscou, the first thing they lay their hands to, is to disjoint the Houses, and therefore for the most part are trained up in that kind of Architecture, to be assistant again in the rebuilding of the same, when all danger is supposed to be over.  

Great but miry Streets.  The streets of Moscou are very spacious and wide, but in rainy weather so miry, that in walking you are up to the very knees in mud; for which reason both Men and Women are fain to wear Boots. Although 'tis certain that inconvenience might be remedied, by paving it with stone, as they do in the Low-countrieses and else where. During the time we were there, it was not possible to thwart the streets if they had not thrown great beams and planks across the way.  

The Air.  Moscou, and all the whole Country towards the North is capable of a very unwholesome Air, for those that are not brought up in it, being in the Winter exceeding sharp and cold, and in the Summer hot and moist. In Winter they muffle up their Nose and Ears in Furs, especially when they go upon a Journey. And in Moscou it is well seen that many of the Inhabitants have neither Nose nor Ear, which they say is by coming out of the bitter cold Air into a hot Stove: for although it may seem strange, yet cannot that be avoided in some places, unless they rub their Noses and Ears, which are frozen, in Snow till they grow hot, which done they may come into a House without danger, and this you shall see them continually a doing in such Seasons. It is also observable how that after a hard Winter the very Earth chinks and opens when it once begins to thaw. But on the contrary, it is there so hot in the Summer that a stranger cannot endure it, at what time also the Marshes and standing Pools do so stink that one is ready to faint away: besides the great annoyance of Gnats, Muskettos and other Vermin, against which there is no way to defend one's Face. The Pestilence is seldom ever known there, 
The Country Sickness.  but in lieu there of another Epidemy, which so torments them in their Bowels that those that are taken with it rarely recover, or live above 3 days. Some I have heard say that in times past it was far more frequent and rigorous than at this day, for before, they had not the use of Physic nor would admit of any that professed it to practise, as of late, finding the great benefit thereof, they have done.  
Moscovia is a Country of a fat and fertile Soil, far beyond that of Lifeland. Their Wheat, Ry, Barley and Oats, they sow about St. john's day at Midsummer, which within 7 or 8 Weeks is fit for the Sickle, or scythe (for they use both) and that by reason of the constant heat. They have besides the beforementioned fruments, good store of Pulse, as Pease, Beans and Lentils. Cucumbers, Pompions and Melons are more common there than with us, of which last I have seen some weighing above 40 pound. The Fruits they have are Pears, Apples, Quinces, Medlars, Cherries Plumbs, and of these several kinds. There grows in the Country lying upon the River Mosequa a kind of an Apple so transparent that you may discern the Seeds, as Grapes: The Shell or Rind thereof is very thin and subtle and the Fruit itself very delicate, but too juicy, and after a long Rain so waterish that they grow insipid. 'Tis generally known abroad that Moscovia affords Flax and Hemp to that exuperancy, that they supply almost all Europe with Rope-work. The next Staple-Commoditie of Moscovia is Wax and Honey, which the Russians take wild and make a vast profit thereof. In short there is no Vegetable of general use with us, but what likes there, save only the Vine, which the Extremity of the Winter will not suffer to like or come to perfection: but that defect is sufficiently supplied from abroad, by the English, Dutch and others, who bring the Products of every Vintage from France and else where. They have no Mines save only of Steel and Iron.  

Of their cattle.  Russia if taken in general is better stored with tame cattle and Wild-beasts than any Country in Europe, or as some believe, in the whole World. Kine is without doubt in greater abundance there than in Tartary, agreeable to the opinion of all Travellers and Geographers, who have given an account of either. The rich Furs which are yearly exported hence to most places of the World sufficiently testify the superabundancy of Foxes, Sables, Martens, etc. But most dangerous it is to travel alone for the many Beasts of prey which run together in vast and innumerable Troops; and those, when the Earth is covered with Snow, very bold and daring, insomuch that the Inhabitants are in continual danger, and are fain to keep their gates barricadoed from those cruel Animals, to secure themselves and their cattle; nay, it has been often known that they have undermined Houses in some parts, 
Fowl.  and devoured whole Families at a time. Wildfowl I have seen of several kinds, as chiefly Heath-hens, Herns, Wild-geese, and Cranes by Millions in a flock together. As for smallbirds, by which I mean Larks, Finches and the like, which we hold for great delicacies, they have them in little, or no esteem, and that by reason of the vast swarms, for they fly together as thick as Gnats or Infects over a Pond. These are havocked by the Hawks, Falcons and Merlin's, which are there in a proportionable plenty to the prey. The Rivers and standing Lakes are stored with Fish of all kinds, 
and Fish.  which are throughout the whole Land incredibly cheap; in sum Moscovia has whatsoever is necessary for Food and Raiment, as good and at as easy rates, as any other Land in the World, none excluded: although I do not say but that one Province differs much from another, and that every particular Province and Region has something or other, as proper or peculiar to its self.  

Woldomir.  Wolodomir is reputed to be of so good a Soil, that from one Bushel of pure Grain sown is sometimes 20 or 25 produced in Harvest and yet Rhesan is reckoned far more fertile than the other, for from every single Seed ariseth 3 stalks, 
Rhesan.  and sometimes more, which is not commonly found in any other Province in all Russia. This Province affords likewise the best and most Beavers.  
The Duchy of Syberia is the most woody of all other Provinces within the Empire of the great Czaar, especially towards the North-east where at Braquin there is a Wood which takes its beginning, 
Syberia.  the end whereof none ever yet was known to find out. This Wood is the main place whence the Moscovians fetch their richest Pelure and Furs, as Ermines, Sables and Black Fox, which is one of the richest Pelts in the World. Volske, 
Volske, Smolens ko and Beleosor. Ustioga. Rostof.  Smolensko and Beleasor deliver vast quantities of Skins and Furs, which the Inhabitants bring up yearly to Moscou and other eminent Marts. Ustioga is a Province that yields great store of cattle, and many sorts of Fish, yet very Barren as to grain. Rostof is the only Province for Salt. Dwino is a barren and dry land, but the Inhabitants obtain great Riches of the Furs, which is the Principal Trading of that Province. These they barter with what Commodities and Necessaries they find themselves destitute of. In this Province are many white Bears, which seem to live as well by Sea as Land. 
Viatke.  Viatke has great want of Grain, yet store of Fish, Honey, Wax, and also Pelts. Petzora, is very montanous, 
Petzora.  in which Principality I have heard it averred, That there are some mountains that require 10 days work to ascend. The Valleys of this Province are fertile enough, 
High Mountains.  and very good pasturage, yet Corn will not take kindly there. What may be further said of Astrachan, and the Tartarian Regions, now in subjection to the Great Duke, I shall wave till I come to make mention of things, as I found them upon our Arrival there.   

CHAP. V. The Form, Nature and Property of the Russes. Their ordinary Diet. Their great esteem of Brandy. Their litigious humours and inclinations to Quarrelling. Their ordinary Habit. Women use painting of their Faces. Their manner of their Marriages, and nuptial Solemnities.  
THe right Moscovians, or Russians (for the Tartars now under Protection of the Czar we shall speak of in their due place) are mostly able, corpulent and big, especially of Head, Arms and Legs. The Common sort are very hard by Nature and patient in extremity, seldom pamper their Bodies with soft lying, when they rest, or delicate Diet when they eat. In summer they lie upon boards, or at best upon straw, and in Winter on the tops of their Ovens, or Cackels, where Man and Wife, Children and Servants lie all down together, without any distinction at all. Utensils they have not many, but so many as themselves judge needful, which are Earthen or Iron Pots, Wooden Dishes, Brandy-and Metheglin-Cups, which they rarely rinse. As for rubbing and scouring they are mere strangers to it, as also to ornaments and Toys, unless it be a Figure which they call St. Nicholas, or perhaps some other Saint for whom they have some particular or extraordinary veneration. Slaves they are by nature, and born to servitude and Bondage, seldom ever aspiring so high, as to endeavour to make themselves franc, and yet will be excited to nothing by fair means, or use diligence about any affair, save what they are driven to by constraint and blows: and yet so sweet this Slavery seems to be to them, that rather than to become free upon the Decease of their Lords to whom they owe allegiance by nature or otherwise, that they will immediately sell themselves durante vitâ to some other Patron. They are very prone to Theft, yea and to Murder when they think that they can do it clandestinly, or to any advantage, how poor soever it be, which seems to be primordially occasioned from the Penury of their Lords, who hardly allow them what is requisite to support and sustain human Bodies: as for Brandy and Tobacco they hold it but a venial Transgression to filch when they can come at it, notwithstanding the strict and severe Laws against Theft, in the lowest nature and lest importance.  
This only is to be applied to the Vulgar sort, as for those of greater Ability and Rank, they spare not for what tends to a voluptuous Life, and indulge their senses, as much or more than is tolerable. Free they are, and indeed generous enough at their Table, especially when they treat or welcome Strangers, who are very welcome and received with all imaginable Urbanity, on Condition, that they observe the Country fashion, which is to bring a Present with them, that may countervail more than thrice the value of what is set before them: and this if you forget to bring, you may take my word, they'll forget to make you welcome. The Slaves in Moscou are very hardly dealt withal and poorly fed, but much harder those that are in the open Country, where their Lords are sparing of their Allowance, and therefore connive at their Filching; thinking it falls out at last to their own profit, especially if it be any thing of Food.  
The Russes feed most of Roots, Pulse and Fish, 
Their Diet.  use much Onions and Garlic in their Pottage and also for sauces. Their Bread is mostly of Course Ry. As for Fish they eat it rather pickled than fresh, which is plentiful in their Markets, and by reason that washing and making clean the shambles is a kind of an Abomination to those people, you cannot come within a hundred paces of the Market, unless you stop your nose, so nauseous and hateful is the smell. Those of the greatest Rank and ability do in general hold good Tables, but eat most Spoon-meat although it were but bread out of Water that Fish has been boiled in. Caviar is a great Dainty amongst them, but not so high in esteem, there as abroad. When they have drunk more than well agrees with them, so that their stomach be surcharged, they prepare a certain Dish which they call Pochmelie made up of cold Beef or Mutton sliced very thin, and Quas: Quas is a Liquor which they use as Beer of which it is made, with a Composition of Water, Beer-Vinegar, Garlic and Pepper: this Quas being so prepared they put their meat into it, and seeth it a little, which afterwards they eat with Spoons. The poorer sort have a certain Liquor much in use among them, which they also call Quas, this is made of Water with a little Bran and Barley-meal, which according to their ability they temper thicker or thinner. The Gentry drink Beer, that there is very strong and heady, but more commonly Metheglin, which they make of the best Honey, adding Cloves, Cinnamon, Pepper, Galangal, Cardamom and other Spices: This is a very strong and stealing Liquor of itself; yet they think good to mix it with Brandy to make it more effectual. Brandy which they call Wina they covet above all other Liquors, which without any discretion or noted difference is drunk both by Spiritual and Temporal, Nobles and Plebeïans, Men and Women, Young and Old, and that at all times of the Day, before and after Meals; Sometimes to add a medicinal virtue they put a little Pepper amongst it. Nay, so besotted are the Vulgar with Brandy, that in the sharpest Wether, they will not only part with their Caps or Coats for the Reckoning, but likewise with their Boots, Shirts and Stockings, so that I have seen some of them come mother-naked out of the Kaback or Tippling-house. The Common people were formerly so irregular and void of Order that they would drink themselves full, and afterwards the men and Women, setting aside all Reputation and Modesty commit sensual and beastly Actions together: This great Disorder was lately remedied by the care of the Czar, who, by the advice of the Patriarch, put down all the small Tap-houses throughout the whole Empire, appointing in every Town and Village one public House, or Kaback, which they are to farm of the Emperor himself. They are very covetous of Tobacco, as has been elsewhere said, notwithstanding the Tenure of a Decree or Mandate promulgated about the year 1634, which strictly forbids every person of what degree or quality he may be, to smoke it: which nevertheless is done privately.  
The Russians are generally gross of Body yet subtle enough in affairs of Merchandise which they can manage very well. Their Women are much inclined to Gossipping, and busy Tatlers, often beat by their Husbands, who sometimes use them unkindly: upon which they sometimes address themselves to Court, where the men once convicted over such Crimes are sent to Syberia. The Emperor considering the multitude of Complaints of this nature, has ordained that if any Woman makes complaint without sufficient Evidence, that the Man is to be tortured on the Rack, which if he stands out, the Wife is condemned to exile, herself, before which Law the Court was daily troubled with such like Differences.  

Backbiting and Jarring a property of the Russians.  Few people, there are in the World that are more accustomed to scolding, railing and calumny than these, although 'tis very rare to see them come to blows, yet much more rarely do they make use of their Weapons. This evil custom of abusing one another oftentimes is the occasion of Quarrels with Strangers to whom it seems a Novelty.  

Their Habit.  The ordinary Habit of the Citizens, is first an upper Coat of a dark green, red, brown or violet-coloured Silk, open before and on the sides, and garnished with loops, having behind great Capes, almost like old-fashioned Cloaks in the Low-countrieses: Under that they wear another coat of Say or Silk, with a high and stiff Collar, these have long sleeves which are tied up round with loops and stand Cooks in good stead to remove hot Pots and Cauldrons from the fire: Those that have, an intent or design to steel or murder, usually have an iron Bullet, or some other hard and ponderous thing wherewith they knock their party down at unawares. Under this they wear yet another Coat which nevertheless is not very close, for they affect looseness as well in their Habit as in their life. Their shirts they tuft with Silk on the back, as also the Necks, which the Gentry adorn with Pearls, Gold, Silver, or Precious stones. In Summer the Citizens wear white Felts, in Winter Caps turned with Beaver or some other Furs, and the Kneeses, Bojars and other Persons of the greatest quality Black Fox and Sables. The Habit of the Women is not so much different from that of their Men, as they differ from each other, agreeable to the Quality of the Person. They wear generally Caps turned with Sables or other Furs but greater than the men's, set with Pearls and Rubies upon the Crown, under which they let their Hair hang in its full length, these are those of higher Rank and Quality; those of meaner Condition have them only turned with red Fox. The Young-women when they grow Marriageable, have their hair knotted up above the crown of the Head in a round ball, but under the age of 10 or 12 years have their Heads all shaved, except only two Tufts that hang down on each side so that they can hardly be distinguished from Boys in their Habit, only the Girls are known by the great rings which hang at their Ears. On this manner the Gentry and Citizens are attired, but the Peasantry as poorly as those of Lifeland, and much after the same manner. Their Upper-garment is ordinarily of sheepskins, with a Cap of the same stuff; their Boots and Shoes are made of the Barks of Trees cunningly plated.  
The Women are by nature well proportioned, 
Painting of faces in use among the Russian Women.  and fair enough to boot if they did not paint, which they do so botchingly that every one may discern it. Spanish Wool and Tincture of Brazil-wood it seems they do not yet know the use of, but instead of that use Vermilion and Minium, and for Flake, a dull White-Lead, or Ceruse at best.  
The Reader may observe that their manner of Marriages is far different from that in the Low-countrieses, 
Of their Marriages.  and all Europe elsewhere a Youngman having fixed his eye upon some Maid with whom he could be content to enter into a nuptial state, he Courts her and Solicits by Friends to make an Overture. A Russian Youth inclinable to admit himself into the conjugal number detects his purpose and desire to his Parents, or nearest in Consanguinity, who thereupon go about and seek out a Virgin suiting his Degree and Condition, whom having found, they apply themselves to her Parents or Guardians, to treat about the subject; where neither the Young man nor any near Relation of his are to see the Bride, in sum the Purchase is like a Pig in a Poke, for all people of fashion keep their Daughters chambered, setting always an old Woman to look to her, who is as vigilant in her Office, as a Turn-key at Wood-street Counter. And hence it comes that they live in perpetual Jars, and contention, when sometimes in hopes of a sweet, well-shaped, and comely Darling, they are chained to a stinking, crooked and deformed Hag. This induces me to a Tale of a young Squire, who thinking himself old enough to be a man, intimated his Inclinations to a common Broker, or Matchmaker, withal conditioning beforehand that he would not come to any conclusion with the Parents of his Party, till he had by some means or other got a sight of her Face, which the man promised to do; and accordingly goes to an old Couple who had long entreated him to procure a Husband for their Daughter: this said Couple he acquaints with the business who no less joyful to understand it prayed him to hasten the Match: now you are to understand by the way that their daughter had but one eye, which made some difficulty in the carrying on the matter, by reason that the Young man would not venture upon the purchase, unless he saw what kind of a Bargain he had: However the Broker gives her instructions, how to behave herself in passing by the House where this Youngman was to be, and bade her look always on one side, which she did. The young man peeping through a crevise, saw her have a good half face, assents to the Articles and Propositions whatsoever they should be, but coming before the Altar, was so concerned that he took an Axe and clove his own head.  
They have many acquaint Ceremonies about Marriage: those of the highest Rank use these following Rites. The Bridegroom and Bride have each of them one to attend them, to prepare and provide all necessaries; these they call Swachas. The day before the Wedding the Brides Swacha goes to the Bridegroom's House to provide and furnish the Bride's Chamber and Bed with what else is requisite, being attended with 60, 80, or perhaps 100 Persons according to the degree and ability of the Parties. These all go in their under-cloaths, bearing each something upon their Heads which will be requisite at the Marriage. Having once entered the Chamber she takes the Bed and spreads it upon 40 small Garbs of Ry, which is first brought thither by her Husband, together with a great number of little Barrels, containing several sorts of Grain, set up and down the Room, which perhaps will signify fruitfulness in procreation. The next morning the Bridegroom goes to the House of the Bride accompanied with the Priest who is to marry them, where they are kindly received by the Friends of the Bride, and invited to sit down, and here they have 3 sorts of Dishes brought before them, which they nevertheless touch not. Here the Bridegroom is to tarry so long discoursing with the Friends of the Bride, till she sends a Servant to introduct him into her Chamber, where being come she is brought in, stately apparelled, and set by his side, but he not suffered to look her in the Face, nor she him, and when they cannot withhold their curiosity but offer to look aside, as longing to see that dear Visage, which ever after they may mutually do with more freedom than any other in the World, there is a Flag or Tablet of red Silk set between them, to hinder it. When they are set the Brides Swacha plates the Hair of the Bride, and sets a Gold or Silver Coronet upon her Head, richly set with Precious stones and Gems, to which are fixed two long Pendants of Diamonds, or (if it be Persons of a lower Calibre) of base stones, these hang down to their Breasts. So soon as the Bride is dressed, the Bridegrooms Swacha likewise combs his head; upon which all the Women fall a dancing. After they have danced a little, there come in two young men with a Basket of White bread and a great Cheese upon a Barrow, covered with Sables, which is consecrated by the Priest and sent to the Church. When this Ceremony is ended, they bring a great Silver Charger, and set it upon the Table, in which are laid some pieces of Atlas, and Taf, with several Square plates of Silver, as also a handful of Hops, Barley and Oats, mixed together: upon that that the Swacha arises and covers the Face of the Bride, and strews the mentioned things out of the Charger amongst the Guests, when as those that are minded may take up the pieces of Silver. When that is done the Parents of the Parties interchange the Rings of the young people.  
When these Ceremonies are ended, the Swacha sets the Bride in a Riding-sledge which is richly accoutred and set out with Cloth of Gold, and Fringes suitable: The Horse is also covered with costly Trappings and rich Furs. Then follows the Bridegroom, accompanied with the Priest both on Horseback; and after them the Friends on both sides. When they enter the Church the Bridegroom takes his Place which is covered with Taffataf, whither also the Bride is brought. When they are set together there are several Images of Saints set up before them, upon which the Priest pronounces a Blessing: and afterward taking the Bridegroom by the right hand, and the Bride by the left, asks, Are you content to enter the state of Matrimony together? The Parties then answering, Yea, the Priest sings the 128 Psalms, which they likewise mutter out after him. This done the Priest sets a Garland upon their Head, uttering these Words, Increase and multiply, what GOD joins together let no man separate. Then all the Friends light their Torches, and the Priest takes a Glass of Red Wine into his Hand, which he delivers over to the Bridegroom and Bride to drink off, then taking the empty Glass from them delivers it to the Bridegroom who throws it down and the Bride stamps it with her foot to powder, saying, So may they fall before our feet, and be crushed to powder, who go about to set us at enmity together. Upon that the Married Women strew them with Hemp, wishing them Prosperity and a happy union. These Ceremonies being ended they return home again after the same manner that they went to Church. So soon as they have entered the House, the Bridegroom goes and takes his seat at the Table where he receives, and bids all his Guests welcome but the Bride is brought directly into her Chamber where the Swacha undresses her to the Shift and lays her down upon the bed, The Bride being thus laid sends to call her Bridegroom by two of her Servants with Torches in their Hands. Immediately upon his entering the Chamber▪ she jumps out of the Bed and puts on a Gown fur'd with Sables, and giving him the hand goes out with him, but her Servants in the mean time put out their Torches by running them into one of the little Barrels [mentioned in Pag. 142] Thus hand in hand they go to the Table where all the Guests sit. The first Dish which is brought up is a roasted Pullet, this the Bridegroom himself is to carve and throws some part thereof over his Shoulder which the Brides Swacha catches in a Napkin, and keeps for a Monument. When the Meal is done the Bridegroom takes his Bride by the hand and so leading her to her chamber they go to bed, upon which all are to go out of the Chamber, and the Music which sits before the Window expecting Notice of it immediately fall a playing, and upon that a noise of Trumpeters begin to sound, and sometimes the Kettledrums to beat. After they have been about an hour in Bed the Swachas come and conduct them to the Bath, where they are both bathed and washed with Wine, Water and Metheglin, dulcified with odorous flowers and spices, and, as the custom is at Moscou, the Bride presents her Bridegroom with a Bathing shirt. After they have bathed they come and accompany their Guests, who all the time were merry at Table, in which Humours they continue sometimes a Week, or 10 days, before they depart to their respective Lodgings.  
The foregoing Ceremonies are such as those of the best rank use, by which you may perceive more vanity than Reason in this Folk: However I think we have no great cause to hiss at them for their folly, since we have as many insignificant Rites amongst ourselves, which are with them equally senseless and as plain puerility, as theirs may be esteemed by us.  
But as for the Plebeïans and Pesantry theirs is after a different manner. The day before the Marriage is to be solemnised, the Bridegroom sends a Kinsman of his own to the Bride's House with new apparel, a Cap, a pair of boots, a Comb and a Box of painting and other materials for Rigging. The day following comes the Priest and gives the benediction: which done, he brings them a Looking-glass requiring them to look into it both at once. In the mean while the Swachas strew the Guests with Hops wishing that the Bride may be as fruitful and increase her stock, as that hopeful Weed. After that comes another who presents the Bride with a Sable or Beaver-skin, withal wishing her so many Children as there are Hairs upon the Hide. These Ceremonies ended at home they go to Church, and are married. in manners as before.  
After the Wedding is past, the Women keep at home for sometime together, not daring to stir out.   

CHAP. VI Divorcement among the Russes and the sundry occasions thereof. Their Superstition about Cleanness and Uncleanness. Baths, and the use of the same. The Hardiness and Patience of the Russes in suffering the Extremities of Heat, or Coldness. Some strange customs among the Russes. Solemnities at the Burial of their Dead.  
SO much, kind Reader, may serve by way of account about their Marriages, as to what I have observed myself, although I am sensible some have written otherwise and described these Solemnities much different to what I have found them, yet rather willing to fee with my own eyes than with another's, so I thought fit likewise, rather to give you these few Memorials with my own pen than (as some Plagiaries of late have done) transcribe out of others.  

Divorcement among the Russes.  If we regard the forementioned Manner of their procuring Wives, without any former sight or conversation, Reason will inform us, that they must needs live discontented Lives, which oftentimes turn to Divorcement at last. Divorcements are with them very frequent and those obtained upon very easy terms; for when either party finds themselves too weak at blows, and not able to repugn the other, 'tis only to shave and betake themselves to a Cloister, whence they may never be brought out by any legal mean. The Man so going into a Cloister is capable of Holy Orders, after a certain Term of years, if he be accordingly qualified. They are also divorced when either Party is convict of Fornication, and the Offender confined to a Monastery. Barrenness is also the Occasion of Divorcement, upon which the Wife becomes a Nun, and the Husband may marry again within six Weeks.  
But those who marry again after once Divorced are for ever after excluded the Church, yet may enter the Porch or Gallery, but if they be divorced a second time and married a third, they are totally Excluded the Church and Congregation.  
They have several superstitious Ceremonies concerning purity, as to the outward, and carry themselves very strictly according to the Traditions of the Church. They hold it not for so heinous a Sin to perform the Works of Unchastity with a Woman, as to do it in presence of an Image, or having their Cross about them, for that they lay off upon such Occasions, and if it be in the Room where an Image hangs, they draw a Curtain before it, as if they were sure that that Image was an Informer, and one that got Bread and Butter for telling School-tales.  
They are very observing of their Duty in the great Fast at which time if any man among them chance to sleep, he is forbidden to communicate, during the Term of a year and 9 days. If it be a Priest he is suspended from Office and Benefice for a whole year; but if a Proponent, he is rendered incapable of taking any sacred Function upon him so long as he lives.  
They hold it for a Crime unpardonable for a Russian to marry with a Stranger, but to commit Adultery with a Heretic-Woman only Venial and pardonable in its own nature, but if a Woman of that nation become Prostitute to another of a different Opinion to their own, it is not accounted so heinous, by reason that the Offspring may be educated in their Religion, and consequently tends to the Increase of the Church, for they have a Maxim contrary to that of S. Paul, Ne faciamus mala ut eveniant bona, Let us not do Evil that Good may come of it.  
These external superstitions of purification are the main reason that every person that is of any Considerable Ability, has a Bathing-tub in his House, which in Turkey and Persia are equally made use of for Purification and Health. They have also Common Baths in every Town and Village, whither both Men and Women, without any distinction have recourse; running in and out naked, only some of the Women for Modesty sake have a few Bur-dock leaves about their middle, which are first dried and afterward laid to steep in Oil of Olives, which afterwards they rub their Bodies with, in the Sweating-tub. They can endure extremity of Heat and Cold to a Miracle, for I have seen them run out of the Water, which I could not suffer my finger in, and of a sudden over Head and Ears in Snow, where they would lay a quarter or half an Hour and then into the Bath again, that remained scalding hot, which if one should do who is not hardened to it from the very Cradle, he were sure to leave his skin behind him. Besides the several Instances I have already given you, I have seen the Children walking over the Ice, without either Boots, Shoes or Stockings, and that in such piercing cold Wether that we could not go out of Doors.  
The Dutch Merchants that have their Residence at Moscou, have also (conformable to the manner of the Country) their Baths, which they strew with odoriferous Spices and Flowers, and make frequent use thereof. When they have bathed so long as they think good, they have a Retiring-room in which is a Sweating-tub or Stove, whither they go and rub themselves.  
The Russians as they differ from all other Nations as well in Religion as in Habit, so they have several Customs, Gestures and Actions proper solely to themselves. Their Shirt they wear above their Breeches and tie it above the Wast with a Girdle, like their upper Garments; When they Whistle they do it through their Teeth, not with their lips, saying, that in so doing they abuse their true shape in which GOD has form them: When they are surprised either with Wonder, or a sudden Danger, they do not throw back their Head, like the Hollanders, nor shrink up their Shoulders, as do the Spaniards, but throw their Head first upon one Shoulder, and then upon another, or perhaps turn it round, as a Fencer flourishes his Rapier, or an Ensign his Colours in token of Victory.  
When they pray they do it not upon their knees as we do, thinking that GOD is displeased with such an irregular posture: and when they write they never make use of a Table, although they have one at their elbow, but always upon their knees; and what they write is altogether in Rolls, pasting one sheet to another as they write them. Fatness they hold for a prime token of Beauty, as also long fore head and eyes for which they pull and draw as much as they can to correct nature, which in things of smaller moment they seem to abhor and detest, if a property of other People.  

Ceremonies in Visitation of their Sick.  About the Sick and Burial of their Dead the Russes have these following Customs. When any lies Sick, and by his Friends thought in danger of long Continuance or Death, they send for a Priest who administers the Communion to him, he first confessing the most noted Sins he can remember that he has done in his life time, to the Priest alone, adding a Promise and Resolution to live a pious and devout Life, if GOD grant him recovery. When he has communicated, they shave, anoint and put him in a Monks-hood, which they call the Seraphic Weed: After which they administer no more Physic to him, but commend him to the Grace of GOD. Now if it happen that he recover, he is obliged to abandon Wife, Children and Estate for ever, and betake himself to a Monastery, where he is to spend the remainder of his days.  
But if our Patient die, 
Ceremonies and Questions propounded to the dead.  than all the Neighbours and Friends come together to bewail the deceased ask the Corpse, how he came to die, and for what reason, for what defect or want, like those of Madagascar, remembered in my first Voyage. I remember that having occasion to visit a Countryman of mine upon a Monday morning I entered the House, where the Master was dead and the Corpse laid out, above a score of old Women, were set round about him, and speaking to him as if they expected some answer from him; but above all, his Wife began to howl and yell aloud, who in his life time wished him a thousand times in Hell, for he behaved himself very severely towards her. Oh, quoth she, Timminni Do Shinca [for that was his name] my Dearest, how hast thou left me thus? What failing didst thou discover in me? Did I ever neglect to paint myself? Have I not brought forth a fair Issue? Hadst not thou all things at Command? Metheglin I am sure we had always in plenty, nay, and Brandy too. What then persuaded thee to leave me desolate and forlorn, Oh remember the disconsolate state of Widowhood and return to the merry World, etc. These, and many other foolish expressions by way of Interrogation, she accosted him with, which made me at first to think that he was not fully dead. So soon as the Party is departed they open the Windows, and set Basins of Holywater, together with several Dishes of meat beside the Body, to relieve his Wants on so long and tedious a Journey, as do the Circas Tartars; which seems to be the Relics of Heathenism, not long since professed in many parts of Russia. immediately upon his departure they send Brandy, and Beer, with other Liquors and Presents to the Priest, who is to pray for his Soul. The Body they wash from Head to foot, as do the Jews, then winding it in a sheet, put it into a Coffin which is hollowed out of a Tree, and so carried to Church, where they besprinkle it with holy Water, and perfume it with Incense; which done they say Mass, and with several Hymns commit it to the Ground.  
But if a Person die without administration of the Extreme Unction, be Murdered, or Frozen to death, or die by any unnatural or violent means, whether casual, or thereto condemned to satisfy Justice, the Corpse is not permitted to enter the Sanctuary, but carried to a place to that end appointed, which they call Zemski Precaus, where it is exposed to public view, and if it be a person unknown, is to remain there 3 or 4 days to see if any will own the Body, which if none come to claim it is immediately carried to another Place without Town, which they call Boghze Dome, that is God's House, and there thrown into a great Pit, where sometimes a Hundred or more Bodies lie on a Heap uncovered, till about Midsummer, at what time, the Priests go and cover them, with a few Rites and Ceremonies.  
The Ceremonies which are used in some places in Russia differ from others. About Moscou the Corpse is followed by a Train of Gentlewomen who are nearest in Consanguinity or Affinity, who with a great Noise and Howling bewail the early departure of their Friend, then presently all are silent, that not one is so much as heard to whisper, or give a Sigh, and then on a sudden elevate their Voice and yell out like some of the more brutish and savage Irish.  
On each side the Hearse go the Priests, Chaplains and Monks, bearing Images, Torches, and a Thurible, or Incense-pan, which is all the while waved to and again, to expel Evil Ghosts which they believe still haunt the Body of the Deceased. After the Corpse follow the Friends and Acquaintance, without any order, each carrying a Wax-tapour in the Hand. When they come to the Grave, the Coffin is opened and the Incense pan swinged 3 times over the Corpse in remembrance of the H. Trinity, and then the Image of that Saint which he in his Life time made choice of for his Patron, is thrown into the Coffin with him, upon which all his Relations come near and take their last view of him, kiss the Coffin and go backward. When the Friends have so taken their leave the Priest delivers him a Letter superscribed to Saint Nicholas, containing a hearty recommendation of the Deceased. A copy of one of these came once to my hand which before I had Transcribed it out, was taken from me by a Priest being the Brother of the Gentleman who lent it me, for it is not lawful for a Russian himself to know the Contents, much less for a Heretic. The Paraphrase of the Fragment was after this Manner,  
Great and Powerful Saint, Beloved of Men and Angels.  
Our immaculate Brother, and Partaker of Mortality, who leaves us in this World, more worthy than to dwell amongst men below, desires to be commended to thy Tuition, whom we heartily commit to thy Protection and Care. Receive him we entreat thee, Oh Wonderfully Great, and Powerful Saint, and let him rest with immortal and glorious Angels. Piety was his joy, Shrift his Delight. Earth what he hated, and Heaven the Object of his love; prayers were his Exercise and—  
This fragment is all I can give you of the Letter, which as I told you was taken from me. The body being interred they return home, where they junket and drink till they forget their Sorrow. This feast dures sometimes a Month or 40 days, according to the ability of the Person: among others it is not customary to make one long Feast at the Funeral, but an anniversary Meal, and celebrate that same day every year in remembrance of the Deceased.   

CHAP. VII. The Religion and Church-Government of the Russians. The Patriarch and his Office. Of their Sacraments, etc.  
THe Moscovians are professedly Christians, 
The Religion and Church-Government of the Russians.  but tainted with many superstitious Ceremonies about Imagery and other Relics of Gentilism; which the good Emperor Basilius about the year 989. rooted out of his Empire, baptising himself, and causing all his Subjects to do the like. They boast mainly of their Continuance and Conformity with the Primitive Church, which they say is still the same in purity without the stains of Innovation, as indeed in many things it seems to be nearer than the Church of Rome, aswell in matter of Faith as Government of the Church.  
The Church of Moscovia has like that of Rome, one supreme Head, who is the Patriarch. Under the Patriarch are 4 Metropolitans, 4 Arch-Bishops, besides many other Bishops, Abbots and the Inferior Clergy. The Patriarch is almost Sovereign in Spiritual Affairs, having an absolute and immediate power without any appendency on the Temporal Government unless it be in case of inducing Heresy, upon which he must Submit to a Synod, as in the year 1662., a General Council was called, and the Patriarch summoned to make his appearance; at what time he was impeached for Innovations, and endeavouring to alienate the present condition of the Church and reform its Government by diminishing Image-worship, which he held for little better than Idolatry. After many days sitting that Council thought fit to confine him to his Mansion-House, and ordain the First Metropolitan in his room, who was then living when I was at Moscou. The Revenues of the Patriarch, as also of the Metropolitans, are very great, out of which they are obliged to levy and Maintain an Army of 15000 men, during the time of War.  
The Habit of the Patriarch, and the Metropolitans differ but little. The Patriarch has always a great Crosier born before him, or a little one in his hand and sometimes both, this they call a Posok. Mitres they wear only upon Convocations or high Assemblies, and upon solemn Occasions. Abroad they are distinguished by a high Cap, flat at top like the Swissers, or Yeomen of the Guard. Next their Body they wear a Cassoc, and above that a long Gown or rather a Pall, which is born up by two Gentlemen. The Inferior Clergy and Priests wear a Cap but not so high as that of the Superiors. This Cap is given them when they are ordained by the Bishops, at what time they shave their Heads, and suffer it to grow no more, save in two little tufts just above their ears.  
There is a Law among them that whosoever beats one of those Clerks so, that his cap fall to the ground, he is liable to a very severe penalty (if I well remember to lose his hand) which nevertheless happens frequently in the Cabac: but to prevent the worst when a Layman is minded to beat one of those Mushrooms, he first takes off his Cap and then trounces him off so long as he will, which done he sets the Cap upon the right Block again.  
The Clergy are not forbidden Marriage, nor none that serve at the Altar, but on the contrary are obliged to marry, and that only once, 
Of the Marriage of the Clergy.  gathering that from the Saying of S. Paul. A Bishop ought to be the Husband of one Wife. Nor is it lawful for him to marry a Widow. If a Priest's wife come to die before him, he is not only enjoined by the Church to remain a Widower, but also to leave the Altar, yet not wholly to lay down the Priestly Function, for he may sit in the Chore or Chantry and assist at Matins and Vespers, as also at Administration of the Sacraments, as far as it is done without the Verge of the Altar. For this reason the Priests are best matched, as usually making much of their Wives, and treating them more gently than the Laïty generally do, lest by hard usage they should drive them into melancholy, and consequently send them too early out of the World, which sends them as suddenly from the Altar.  
Baptism they hold forth as a Sacrament very necessary, 
Of Baptism.  for which reason they make as little delay as may be between the Womb and the Font. If they fear the Child be weak they have it Baptised at home, but never in the same Room where it is born, for that they hold unclean. The Consponsors or Godfathers being come to the Church Porch, the Priest meets them and repeats the Benediction. The Godfathers deliver 9 Wax-candles to the Priest, which he places round about the Font afterwards turning about toward the East mutters out a Versicle or two, then taking the Incens-pan goes round about the Font, which done he sings a Psalm or Hymn, making a brief Oraizon, and after that demands the name of the Infant which is delivered him in writing. So soon as he has read the Billet, asks, whether the Child believes in the Sacred Trinity? and, Whether he utterly Forsake the Devil, etc. To which they confidently reply in the Affirmative. Then the Priest pronounces this Adjuration, Get thee hence, than unclean Spirit, and make way for the Holy Ghost, Then he takes the child into his Arms, blowing three times in his Face, and making a cross upon his Head, dips it three times in Water, Saying, I baptise thee in the Name of the FATHER, and of the SON, and of the HOLY GHOST. Having thus plunged the Infant, he puts some Salt into its mouth, anointing the Fore head, Breast and Hands with consecrated Oil, and then draws a clean white shirt over its Body, which done he saith, Now thou art cleansed from thy Sins. Last of all he hangs a Cross about its neck of Gold, Silver, Tin, or Ivory, with the Image of some Saint, to whose Patronage he is specially committed and commended, and so the Sum of this Sacrament is performed. The Water is thrown away into a Cave of the Earth, because it is impure. If any Person be so far besotted, as to become a Proselyte and embrace their Religion, he must renounce his former Baptism, and be rebaptised after their manner, first spitting 3 times over his shoulder in token of Abhorrency of his former Errors.  

Their Communion,  The Sacrament which we call Coena Domini, or the L. Supper they hold forth likewise as necessary to Salvation, receiving it in both kinds, yet not as is usual among those of the Reformation, for they break the Bread into the Wine, which the Communicant takes with a spoon. This Sacrament is also administered to Children, and all under the Notion of Transubstantiation, although not in so full a Sense as the Romanists. The Sick do likewise partake of this Sacrament, which is given them upon their Deathbed, as the Host in the Church of Rome.  

Auricular Confession,  Confession is also a Sacrament held forth by them, and is much after the manner of the Church of Rome, and are enjoined to Penance according to the Nature and Degree of the Sin, which they obey wondrous well, and if the Crime be very Heinous, they wash themselves at the Epiphany.  

and Fasts.  They have also their weekly and annual Fasts; Four times in the year happens the latter, in which they show themselves outwardly zealous, agreeable to the literal Injunction of the Church; but are at no time so loose and wanton as then, passing away the time in Drinking, Dancing, Gaming Whoreing, and what not? No time, nay all the time in the year round affords not more news of Murder: and since the Main Fast happens in the Winter, there are many so far besotted that they are not able to find the way home, but dropping asleep by the way are so frozen to death; whence (if they escape the Wolf and Bear) they are carried to the Zemski Precaus, and from thence to the Bogzi Dome, of which we have already made mention.   

CHAP. VIII. The Jurisdiction of the Czaar, his Titles, Revenues and strict Justice.  
ALl Russia together with the several Kingdoms and Principalities is subject to one Sovereign Monarch, 
MARC. 1669. Jurisdiction of the Czar.  whom they call 
* From the Greek Word 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Caesar.  Czaar. The name of the Emperor when I was there, was Alexie Michailowitz Romanou, that is, Alexius, Son of Michael, Roman; for so they use that Patronymic Roman, from Ivan Basilowitz, or Joannes Basilides, who was a Roman by descent, and of Imperial Lineage. The Arms of the Emperor are as follows. Sol, an Eagle displayed with 2 necks, Saturn, in chief a Mitre Imperial Mars, On the Nombril, on an Escutcheon Jupiter, the Chevalier Saint George, armed proper, and mounted on a Horse Luna, under his feet a Dragon Venus.  
The Czaar is absolute Sovereign and Lord, conferring Dignities and Honours, Subordaining Ministers of State and Officers whether Civil or Military, Coining Money, raising and lessening the Value of the same. Making Peace and Proclaiming War at his own discretion, and in short whatsoever any King in the World can claim as Praeroguative. His Title is as follows.  
ALEXIUS Michaïlowitz Romanow, by the grace of GOD Emperor of the Greater, Less and White Russia, Lord of Moscou, Kief, Wolodimera and Novogorod, Czaar of Casan, Czar of Astrachan, Czar of Syberia, Lord of Pletskow, Great Duke of Smolensko, Tweer, Jugoria, Permia, Weatka, Bulgaria, etc. Lord and Great Duke of Novagarada within the Low-countrieses of Zernigou, Rhesan, Rostof, Jerislaw, Belooseria Udoria, Obdoria, Condinia, and absolute Sovereign of the Northern parts as also of Iveria, Cartalinia, Grasinia, Carbadinia, Kirkassia and Georgia, and of many other Provinces and Dominions in the East, West and North, Haereditary Lord and Sovereign,  
As the Titles of the Prince are great, so his Revenues are conformable. 
Imperial Revenues  The Kabacks or Taverns are altogether farmed through the Empire of the Emperor himself, whereof there are 3 at Novogorod which bring up yearly Ten Thousand Gilders, and so all others according to proportion. The Imposition upon Iron, Corn, Salt, Tar, Furs and other Commodities are very considerable. If so the Revenues of this Prince be Great, so likewise his Court is as sumptuous, and House-keeping very Royal, besides the vast Charges in maintenance of the Strelitzers, who are exactly and duly paid.  

Of their justice.  Their Laws, as we have elsewhere said, are very rigorous against Malefactors, and quite different from other Nations. The first and lightest is the Battoki, which is when the Patient is to lie upon his belly, then come two men, one sitting down upon his Neck and the other upon his Legs, who beat him till the Judge or Officer commands them to hold up. The Knutten is a Punishment of a higher degree, and such as usually those that sell Brandy, Metheglin or Tobacco without a special Licence from the Czar, are punished with, and is after this manner: The Executioners Servant takes the patient and strips him from the middle downwards, and takes him upon his back, which done the Executioner with a scourge of Thongs made of a raw Elks-hide dried gives him a certain number of stripes, according to a Ticket which is delivered him immediately before he takes the scourge in his hand. This punishment is exceeding severe, and yet not sufficient to suppress continual smuckling, and selling by stealth, which the more they are punished and threatened, the more eager they are to do it. The Executioner and his Office are not there so contemptible as with us, for it is sometimes purchased by the most wealthy Merchants in the Land. Other Crimes are punished with Chapping off a Hand or a Foot, and sometimes only a Finger according to the enormity of the crime. False Coiners have liquid metal poured down their Throats: and Ravishment of Virgins [or as our Laws call it a Rape] is expiated by gelding of the Delinquant, of which if he recover well and good, but it is very rare that any does.   

CHAP. IX. Celebration and Solemnity of Palm-Sunday. The Departure of the Author out of Moscou to Astrachan. Heads and Officers. They set Sail. A heavy storm. Arrival at Nisen-Novogorod; Plenty of Provision at Nisen. A description of the famous River Wolga. Beginning of the Cerem Tartars. Their Customs and Nature, Their Idolatry. Ceremonies about the Dead. Their Habit, Polygamy, etc.  
ON the 18th of April being Palm-Sunday was celebrated a great Feast, wherein was much Triumph and Joy manifested with Arches and Pageants, amongst which was our Saviour his manner of riding to jerusalem. This Solemnity was performed with an infinite number of People, and led by the Emperor himself in Person, attended with all the Bojars and the greatest personages about Court. The Patriarch sat upon a Horse apparelled all in white, representing the L. Jesus Christ. The Czar being supported by two Bojars, led the Horse by the Bridle, being richly apparelled, with an Imperial Diadem upon his Head. The Patriarch, as was said before, was arrayed with a long white Stole, with a Hierarchichal Infula or Mitre upon his Head, richly set with Pearls. In his right Hand was a Cross of Gold set with Diamonds and precious stones, with which he signed the Multitude that came thronging to him with great Reverence and Devotion. He sat cross over the Horse, which Horse was set out with splendid Trappings and richly Capparisoned, after the manner of an Ass. On each side the Patriarch went several Bishops; and the Superior Clergy, with white Surplices, Having Thuribles. The Host, the Chalice, the Pax, Books, Bells, Tapours and other things used at Mass, besides a great number of Flags. The Way from the palace to the Crescent was all laid with Red-cloath. Here it was where the Patriarch first took Horse: the Horse being there tied to a pale. After the Patriarch follow the Bojars, bearing a huge Tree, woven and wound with Silk and Ribbons, as also many sorts of Fruits thereto annexed. Herein sat several little Children, with Apples, green Twigs and Branches. After all came the Mobile, strowing the way with Branches which they had in their Hands, crying out, Hosanna Son of David, blessed is he that cometh in the name of the Lord, Hosanna in the Highest, etc. When they were returned to the Crescent, the Patriarch gave the Benediction to the Multitude and so the Procession ended. In the Evening the Patriarch sent the Czar 200 
* A piece of Money valuing about 9s. 6d. Their Celebration of Easter  Roebels, for his good service in leading the Horse. I also saw their Paschal Solemnities, at what time they continually kiss one another at meeting, saying, Christ is risen, with one delivering a died Egg, and therefore at this time they have many Booths all over the Town where they have Eggs of all colours to sell. These Ceremonies are so universally observed, that none passes the street without giving and receiving of Eggs of what Condition or Degree soever they be. Towards the Evening, they entertain one another, every one in the best manner he can, as well Clergy as Laïty, and now are all the Taphouses, or Kabacks crowded with men, where they toss off whole Bowls of Metheglin, Brandy and strong Beer, till they fall together by the Ears.  

Departure from Moscou to Astrachan.  On the 4 of May, we departed with a 
* A small Vessel almost like a Hue, about 30 Tuns burden. Arrival at Colomna.  Strough from Moscou, which was laden with Ammunition and provision. We were 15 men in all who were sent down with this Vessel. We made quick passage down the River, for the next day we arrived at Colomna, which is 134 English Land-miles by Water, but thwart the Land about 50. This City is well fortified with a strong Wall, and many Turrets. It is seated upon the Mosqua, having a long Wooden Bridge over that River.  
On the 6 dito we came into the River Oka, making a deep and broad stream where it unites with the Mosqua. Here we saw a very fair Village called Dydenof, by some Gedino, and about the Evening we arrived at the Wharf where the Ship Eagle lay, having the Imperial Paludiments on her Stern. We were very kindly received by the Heer Cornelius Roeckhoven Coll: and Mr. Lambert the Master, who expressed great joy for our arrival. Besides those were other Officers preferred aboard the Ship, to wit Monsr. Stark Lieut. Coll. 2 Captains, a Chirurgeon a Jeweller, an Interpreter, and a Purser. Their Pay was as follows, The Colonel 100 Rixdollars per Month. The Lieutenant Colonel 30 The Captains 40 The Chirurgeon 20 The Interpreter 10 The Purser 10 Captain Butler 160 Gilders The Master of the Ship 100 The Mate 60 The Carpenter 80 Carpenters Mate 36 Foremast-men, each 50 Myself 57  
Our whole Company consisted in 20 Dutch.  
On the 12 we set Sail from Dydenof which was the Wharf where the Ship Eagle was built, 
MARC. 1669.  conducted by the Col. Boekhoven about 2 leagues downward. The same day in the Afternoon we came to a Town called Nicholo, where we found provision incredibly cheap. Here I bought some Wildfowl in the Market about as big as Wild-gees, for a 
* A coin about the value of a Penny.  Kopeke the Couple, and satisfied my Chapman to the full.  
On the 13 we came to Omula, which is a Village about 40 [English] Leagues from Dydenof. After two days Sailing we came to Pereslaf, which is a small City, rebuilt, as I have been told out of the Ruins of Resanski, which formerly was a famous Town, surprised by the Tartars, demolished, and the Inhabitants, removed to Pereslaf.  
On the 17 we came close to Resanski where we viewed the Ruins of the City, which testified the former Greatness and Strength of the Town. From hence we sailed to the Eastern side of the River, where we saw many famous Houses and stately Buildings, with Fair Orchards and Groves.  
On the 18 we saw many goodly Towns and Religious Houses, and at night arrived at Novosolki, a Place solely belonging to the Archbishop. Here we bought provision, and all kinds of Refreshments that the place afforded, finding all things very cheap and good: and from hence we sailed away passing by Schilko, Tericho, Tinersho Slavada, Koponaw and other fair Towns.  
On the 22 we came to Kassienie-gorod, a beautiful little City, and the Residence of Prince Reskitski. Our Captain and Master intended to visit the said Prince, and for that end came here to Anchor, but coming a shore understood that he was departed for Moscou, with the old Princess his Mother. However they went to view the Palace, and were magnificently entertained by the steward, of whom after the Exchange of some Rarities on both sides, by way of Presents, they took their leaves. Kassieme-gorod has been formerly a Hold of the Tartars, but the present Prince at the age of 12 years surrendered it up to the great Duke of Moscovy, whom he as then obtained to be his Protector.  
On the 23 we sailed past many fair Villages, Churches, Monasteries and other Houses built for Religious uses, coming the next morning to anchor before Leshi, which is a very great Town, but not walled.  
On the 24 we came before Moruma, a Town inhabited partly by Russes and partly by Mordwin-Tartars whose Country begins here, although both the City Moruma and the Circumjacient Landship is at present under subjection of his Majesty of Russia.  
On the 27 we sailed by Prewas Palo and some other lesser Towns. Near this Place are two Rivers which vent themselves into the Wolga, the one called Morsna Reka on the starboard-, and the other Klesna on the larboard-side in sailing downward, which last comes from the City Wolodomur. The Bank on the one side is very high Land, and steep, yet above level and fair Land; but to the Northward the Bank is level with the Water, and the Land woody and desert, nether inhabited nor tilled to any purpose.  
On the 28 we sailed past Isbuilets', and Troitska, dropping anchor before Slowoda.  

A great Storm.  On the 24 we set Sail and came that day before Dudwina, where we were forced to remain 4 days and 4 nights, by reason of the tempestuous weather.  
The boisterous Winds and Rain somewhat abated we set sail, and on the 3 of june came before Nofunki, and the 8 before the great City Nisen Novogorod, situate on an angle of the great River Wolga, 
JUNE. 1669.  which is there conjoined with the Oka.  
Nisen-gorod lies in the Latitude of 36 degr. and 28 min. under a wholesome climate, and in a fertile Country. 
Nisen-gorod.  It is well fortified with Walls, Bulwarks, Towers, Men and Ammunition of War. About 2 [English] miles without the City live more Inhabitants than within, being Russes and Tartars, but in subjection to the great Duke. The Germans had formerly built two Churches here, one for the Lutherans and another for the Calvinists, both which went to decay upon their leaving the Town. It is here very cheap living, and all things necessary for the sustenance of Human Bodies may be procured at easy Rates. The Pastures abound with cattle the Villages with Poultry, the Woods with Venison, the Rivers with Fish, and the Land with Corn, Fruit, Roots and Plants. Butter we bought there for 10 gl. the 100 lb. [which is after the rate of 2d per pound] and yet we esteemed that the dearest Purchase we bought there. We bought there a good sort of Linen for 2 stivers the Ell, which served us well for shirting and other uses aboard the Ship. And by reason of the Cheapness of Provision and all necessaries, we received here 6 Month's pay: and because that they had here an excellent Ropeyard, the Heads of our Company thought good to leave the Lieutenant Schack with our chief Boatswain, to look after some Ropes which we had given order to be made, as also to fit us with new Anchors.  
On the 21 dito we put off from Nisen and left the Wolga. 
Description of the River Wolga.  This is reputed one of the greatest and longest Rivers in the whole World, taking its beginning in the highest Mountains of Nova-Zembla, running past jerislaf, or jerislaw, Tweer and other eminent Cities, whence with many Windings and Turnings it runs through the Land till it come at Astrachan, where it divides itself into several Heads like the Nile, and so loses itself into the Caspian Sea, receiving by the way many great and navigable Rivers, and those mostly on the North-east side: from whence by reason that the River receives its Water, it is subject to rising and falling, as at june it is at highest, and in july begins again suddenly to decrease, insomuch that it is in all places full of Banks and Sand-beds, as hereafter, in the pursuit of my Journal shall more particular and ample mention be made; whereas when it is increased to its height, one may sail over several Islands. This said River is in some places more than 3 [English] miles' broad, and proving in other places very narrow making at each side of the River a Whirl-pool, which cannot be avoided without great difficulty. The course of this River from Nisen to Casan is mostly East and Southeast; but from Casan to Astrachan and so to the Mare Hyrcanum, or Caspian Sea altogether South. On each side the River you have for the most part very good Land and many fair Towns, as I have already noted, whose Inhabitants are sedulous in their Husbandry, and are well supplied with the particular Products of all the several Landships adjacent on this noble River, as also with many sorts of excellent Fish. In times past the Wolga was much incommodated by the Cosaks of Don, who being very strong in small shipping, would sometimes, surprise, assail and take the Russian Fishermen and Strougs.  
On the 22 we passed by the Island Tlerinski and Subsinski, but towards the Evening were fain to drop anchor, by reason of the many Sands and Banks.  
On the 23 we weighed but found our Anchor fast among the Roots of the Trees, which cost us some pains to get clear. About midday we got the Island Dioploy, about 3 in the afternoon Musa, and about the Evening Kremonsky, where we anchored.  
On the 24 we proceeded forward and got Parmino, where we took in Provision, which we found very good and of a low Price. From hence we loosed, and sailed by many pleasant Islands, Towns, and an Excellent prospect from Land, which was stored with cattle, fruitful Dales, Woods, Meadows, Currents and whatsoever natural Delights that may content the heart of Man.  
On the 29 dito we came to Wasili-gorod a little Town on the West side of the Wolga, and because it was here a level Country we took the height of the Arctic Pole, which we found 55 degr. and 50 min. above the Horizon. This said Town was then without Gates or Walls, and is built mostly of wood, save only Public Edifices, and Religious Houses, which are there but few, since it has not been long in possession and subject to the Czar, or great Duke of Moscovy. On the Southside of Wasiligorod, is a little River called the Soura, which here gushes out with a violent rushing and buzzing into the Wolga.  
Above Wasiligorod begins the Land of the Ceremish Tartars which extends itself out as far as Casan. Those again are divided into two sorts of People; The one sort is called Nagorni, which are those that inhabit the hilly Country, and the other Lugowy who dwell mostly in the Valleys. The former follow altogether Pasturage, the latter Agriculture, for which they have a happy Land, blessed with a fertile Soil. The Inhabitants are a rude and barbarous People, utter strangers to good Manners and Learning. They speak for the most part the Russian Language, but some places there are where they speak Tartarian, and in other places they have a peculiar Tongue of their own. They are the most stupid Heathens that I have yet seen in all my 3 Voyages, have neither Sense nor light of a Divine Power. Houses of Worship, and Priests, Resurrection, Heaven and Hell are things they never heard of, nor nor will ever learn to know what they are. However I may not be so general but that I may except some, who have some light and knowledge of an immortal God, and such an one as has the direction of all, but only rules them as a King upon Earth does his Subjects. They are further of Opinion that there are Devils or evil Spirits, whose power is limited and circumscribed, and that they cannot do any mischief save only in this Life, for these doubt much about the Resurrection, and for this end they do Sacrifices to them as do the Madagascars that they should do them no harm. They tell you of a strange Water by the means whereof the Prince of the Devils comes in horrible and most ugly shapes, for which they dread, as Children do Bugbears they never saw. To that Immortal Deity and divine Essence they offer up all manner of Beasts as Oxen, Horses, and Sheep, which when they do, they take the Hide and stretch it out upon a Rack made on purpose, making thereby a Fire, over which they hang the Flesh to boil, When it has seethed long enough, they take out a Bowl of the Pottage in the one hand, and a Bowl of Metheglin in the other, and throw them both upon the Hide, upon which it falls into the Fire, saying, Accept, O God, this Offering at my Hands, and be pleased to hear my Prayers; which Prayers do commonly import their own Health, or the increase of their cattle. So that their main Opinion about that God, is only that he is a good-natured and benevolent-Lord, and the Devil malevolent, which is all that may be gathered from them. Others I have seen who worship the Sun, Fire, and Water. Ceremonies about the Dead I could never perceive any, save only that when any eminent Man among them comes to die they make a Feast of Horseflesh, at which all the nearest Relations are present, and the Corpse given to a ravenous Beast called Briggachol, which I have not elsewhere seen: That done they hang up his Vestments upon a Tree in memory of him, as we do Escutcheons, and this was all I could learn of myself, or from the Observations of others that had been longer and further within Land. Their Habit is as course as their Breeding, mostly of Skins or a kind of Canvas. Their Upper-coat comes down only to the Thighs, and their Breeches and Stockings all one. Those that are married shave their Heads, but whilst single they let their hair grow, but all in one Tuft, which they commonly tie up in a ball above their head, or plate it, as our Jockeys do their Horse-tails. The Women wear also course Garments having their faces muffled up to the eyes: but more acquaint is the Habit of a Young-woman ready to marry, who besides other odd accoutrements wears a piece of Wood, shaped like a horn directly upon her Forehead, about an Ell in length, and at the small end a little Bell. Circumcision they have not yet learned from the Turks or jews, nor yet Baptism from the Christians; but have some few Ceremonies about the naming of their Children, which is done when they are about half a year old. Polygamy is in use among them, and that without any order or regard to nearness in Blood, for it has been well known that the Father takes the Daughter and so procreates Issue, and the Son the Mother, after the manner of the Cingaleezes in Ceylon, where the Father about marrying his daughter out, bereaves her of her Virginity, saying, Should I plant a Tree and not enjoy the First-fruits myself?   

CHAP. X. The Ship set fast upon a Ford. The great Utility of the Lindentree. Some of the Company drowned. Fertility and excellent Soil of the Banks of the Wolga. Arrival at Casan. Casan taken in by the Russes. The Casan-Tartars fight the Russes. The Russian Army flee. Moscou taken in. The Czar becomes Tributary to the Tartars. The good Conduct and valour of the Governor of Resan, who restores the Czar and the Empire to it's former Freedom.  
ON the 30 dito we set out again, 
JUNE. 1669.  and suddenly were run aground upon a Shallow place, where we were very hardly put to it to get off, and besides our great Labour we lost an Anchor and a Drag. We were no sooner got clear but we ran immediately upon another Bank, and so from one to another that we were almost out of hopes of ever coming through, for we saw danger on every side, and our Pilot very unskilful of the River, which detarded our Voyage very much.  
The next day we gained the Deeps, and came before Cusmademianski where we cast anchor and provided ourselves with Victualling and Refreshment. This City is founded upon a rising ground having on the one side high and steep Mountains, and on the other side a level Country. The Land round about as well the montanous as the flat afford many Woods and Groves of 
* The same, as I take it, which Pliny and other Naturalists call Tilia or 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉, the inner Rind whereof they made Parchment ●r Paper of, as of the Shrub Papyrus. Of this more amply see Pliny lib. 16. cap. 14.  Linden, on Teile-tree. The Bark of this tree is good for many uses, and therefore peeled and sold by the Inhabitants, the Body they hollow, and make Tubs, Troughs, Pales and other Vessels thereof: which is the only Traffic and Work I know of in use amongst them.  
On the first of july we sailed by two Islands, to wit, Turig and Mastof, and ran the ship aground, where we lost another Anchor, Towards the Evening we came before Makrity.  
On the 2d we set Sail, and came before Sabaksar, where some of our Ships-company went ashore, and took our Passport and Credentials to show the Waywode, or Governor, who gave us a supply of Men and necessaries to help us forward to Astrachan. Sabaksar is one of the neatest Towns I had hitherto seen since we left Moscou, 
JULY. 1669.  being well built, fortified and since the uproar of the Casaks, the Garrison better supplied with men than before. Having dispatched here we weighed anchor, and on the 3 of ditto, gained the Island Cousin where we were fast again, but without much difficulty got clear. We sailed that day past Sundir, a handsome little Town, and dropped anchor before Cokschaga: losing thence we were fain to cast out our Fore-anchor to hale over a Ford, which was 10 Dutch leagues long, and found work enough to bring the Vessel over, however after much pains taken we gained the Deep, without any damage to the Ship.  
On the 4 we came past the Shallow places, and before Wolofka were fast again, where we were fain to cast anchor and wind ourselves off. At night we lay before Swiatkhi, which is a fortified Town, having many fair Churches and Monasteries within walls.  
On the 5 we weighed anchor and set Sail, having a brisk Gale, which in 3 hours' time, or less brought us before the River Casanka, from which River the City and Kingdom of Casan have their name, here we came to anchor where some small Shipping belonging to that place, aiming to enter the River, ran against our Bow and some fell overboard.  
Here about is a very fair Country and as fertile as any that ever I have seen in all my Life. It is mostly low arable and meadow ground overflown once a year upon the swelling of the River Wolga. On the Banks of this said River are variety of Fruit trees of many kinds, which grow in whole Groves together and wild, for a hundred Dutch Leagues, as Haslenuts, Cherries 3 or 4 several sorts, Black; White and Red Currans, etc. That part of Casan which lies most within Land formerly belonged to the Tartars, but the Inhabitants speak the Russian Language, which was first brought in when the Country was conquered by the Russes, as shall be hereafter said. They do not convert any man to slavery, nor make that their Traffic, as do the Nagay the Crim-Calmuc-and Dagestan-Tartars, for if they had they might have sold me when with other two of our Ships-company I was under their Hands, and that above 3 leagues within Land, where on the contrary we found them civil after their Manner, for they gave us Bread and Milk to eat.  
On the 6th our Shallop was sent up to Casan, to acquaint the Deputy with our Arrival.  
On the 8th the Deputy of Casan, together with the Metropolitan came aboard, where they seemed to receive great satisfaction, having never seen the like before. The Common people came likewise flocking in great multitudes to see a floating Castle, and notwithstanding all the awe of the Deputy and Provincial, we had much ado to keep them off, for they strove to come aboard.  
Casan is a great City, and reasonably strong, 
Description of Casan.  but its Walls and Towers of Wood, as almost all the Russian Towns are. The Citadel is walled with stone, and well provided of Ammunition and Men. The Town is situated upon a Hill, but in a Champan Country. The Citadel is encompassed with the Casanka, which renders the Water within inexhaustible in time of Siege. The Traffic of this Place is very considerable, regarding the Country it lies in. It is frequented by the Crim-Tartars, who bring thither all manner of Merchandise their Land affords, and not only the vendible Products of the Earth and Cattle, but as orderly their own Children, which they sell at a low rate, a Boy or a Girl of 16 years of age, for the value of 20 Crowns a piece. The City Casan is equally inhabited by Russians and Tartars and governed by a Deputy, as we have already said, but the Citadel kept solely by Russes, where no Tartar is to come upon pain of Death. There is besides the Deputy (who is only as Precedent and supreme in Civil Matters) an extraordinary Waywode, who is always as Superintendant in time of War, having the sole Direction of Martial Affairs.  
The Country of Casan, which has been formerly a Kingdom, is of a very wide extent; bounded on the North with Syberia, on the East with Nagaya, and on the South with the River Wolga. This Country was formerly very populous and able to bring a great Army to field, as in recorded of their famous Expeditions against the Russes; but since depopulated, made waste and subdued, by Basilius Ivanowitz, who overcame these Casan-Tartars in a very bloody Battle, and after that so notable a Conquest set a Viceroy. This Viceroy, although a Casan-Tartar, was always more loyal to the Czar, than favourable to his own Countrymen; which occasioned great murmurings and jealousy, among the Casaneers, that at last they called in the Crim-Tartars for their assistance, who were Mahometans. These made not much delay, but on a sudden raised a mighty Army, which incorporating with the Rebels gave the Viceroy battle, and gained the Field, and pursuing the success of the day invaded the Emperor's Territories. The Czaar in the mean while being informed by Express that the Hostility kept the Field, had put the Forces under Conduct of the Viceroy to flight, and that they approached with a great Body, he levied as great an Army as he could do with so short warning, and engaged with the Tartars in open Field. But the Hostility increasing more and more, what with their own Nation, and what with the Malcontents within the Russian Jurisdiction, were almost 15 to 3, and after a short but very hot Battle the Emperor was fain to flee and betake himself to Novogorod. The Tartars seeing themselves Masters of the Field, marched forward to Moscou which they attacked, took in and plundered. However the Citadel Cremelena held stoutly forth all the time, without making Proposals or Articles upon which they would seem willing to surrender it, till at last finding themselves not in a capacity to hold forth they gave it over, upon very honourable Conditions as to themselves, but disadvantageous Terms for the great Duke himself, and the City of Moscou. Shameful was this Loss to the Emperor, and no less ground of Honour for the Victory to the Hostility, who now as it were in a moment had regained all their Freedoms which from time to time before they had lost. Right loath was the Czar to give his assent to the Conclusions of the Treaty, but was at last compelled to sign it with his own hand, partly for that his Bojars and Council pressed him to it, and partly upon his own considerations, how that his Country in all probability would in case he continued refractory be overrun, and he himself with all his Race be secluded from the Monarchy. The Tartarians had 2 Generals, Brethren and equal in command, whereof the elder called Mendligeritz, erected a Statue in Moscou, to which he obliged and enjoined the Moscovians to pay certain Homages. The younger called Sapgeri marched on for Casan where he had his Residence, thinking, that because it had formerly been a Sovereignty, and that the Footssteps and Relics of a wasted Kingdom were still apparent, he might the better erect and rear a new Monarchy upon the Foundations of an old. Mendligeritz the elder marched with his Army towards Rhesan, well knowing that the great Power of that Province might check him, upon opportunity. So soon as he was set down before the Town, he signified the occasion of his coming, sent the Governor a Copy of the Articles signed by the Czar, demands the Town, and willed him to surrender. But the Governor (who was a Gentleman both of known Fame and Worth, in regard of his rare Conduct in several Battles at the Head of an Army) let him know, That all the Infidels and Barbarians in the world should not deter him so far as to transgress his Duty, and Oath, since he himself had no such Intelligence from his Lord, the Great Duke, and till he had Assurance of what the Tartarian General had advised him about concerning such Articles, he would defend the Town and Citadel. The General upon this Answer sent him the Original of the prementioned Articles, and so willed him to avoid Bloodshed: but the Governor detained the Messengers and kept the Schaedule, resolving to stand out the Siege. Upon this the Tartars raised the Siege, and attempted to storm the City; but those within courageously defended themselves, and played of their Canon; together with an incessant shooting of Arrows, at the Enemy, that they were forced to retreat and remove the Siege to another side of the Town, where some disloyal Russians had acquainted them that the place was weakest and consequently the most easy to be stormed: however finding no hopes of gaining the Town, the Tartarian General sent a Herald to urge the Governor to resign the Papers, declaring himself thereupon willing to draw off his Forces, which the Governor refusing the General left the Town. Several Narratives were sent off to Moscou, which occasioned a general Joy, and encouraged the Townsmen to revolt, and unanimously fall upon the Garrison, who being incapable to make resistance were fain to submit and beg Quarter. The Statue of Mendligeritz was also pulled down and broke to pieces in detestation of his Tyranny. The Czaar immediately upon these news gathered all the Forces he could, which when drawn to field amounted to 25000 Men, and marched forward to Casan, where he gave the Tartarians Battle; and after a hot fight gained the Camp, the Enemy retiring into the Western Provinces of Tartary, shortly after the Czar died, without the performance of any honourable atchieument, save that during the time of his Reign. But Ivan Basilowitz, 
MAR. 1669.  son to the deceased Emperor, seeing the good footsteps of his Father, and perceiving a sure foundation, Levies a new Army and recruits the Old with well experienced Germans; but having no trusty Person to whom he durst commit the new Army as Commander in chief, he joins the Forces, himself leading marches so in the Head to Casan, which City when he had besieged 8 weeks and lost many men, fearing likewise that Mendligeritz might come to assist them he gave them Offers of Peace, which nevertheless the Tartars would not accept, expecting succour from the Field-Army. Ivan Basilowitz thought it high time either to take up the Siege or to storm it on a sudden; which last he resolved upon and accordingly, set 70 Germane Pioners at work, who did the work so effectually and without discovery of the Enemy within, that they had under-mined the North-east Gate in the space of 24 Hours or less, and thereupon blew it up which done the Moscovians surprised them within and made themselves Masters both of the Town and Citadel. The Townsmen obtained Quarter although the Great Duke had threatened the Contrary, for that they had twice rebelled against the Imperial Crown and of their own accord sent succour to the Enemy, when it was not in the lest urged from them. The Czar being now Master of Casan fortified it with a strong Wall, Towers and Bulwarks. But now to our present Journal.  
After the Deputy of Casan had throughly visited our Ship, and well entertained by our Officers aboard, he departed with the Metropolitan ashore, and entreated us all to come up to Casan, which we did, and received a reciprocal kindness from him there. When we returned aboard the Mobile followed us with Music and Dancing a good part of the way.  
On the 10th we received a good Quantity of Lead aboard, which we were to unload at Astrachan.  
On the 13th I got permission of the Officers to go up to Casan to buy some Biscake for my own use, which I had for a mean price, and having much more than I could use, I sold it and got a considerable profit, as well of the Officers as the Foremast men, for we were to take care for our own Victualling.   

CHAP. XI. Departure from Casan. The strange manner of taking Fish. Cities demolished by Tamerlan. The Ship run fast aground. The Salt-pans', and manner of making Salt. Difficult Sailing in the Wolga. A New City built for defence against Robbers and Pirates. The great abundance of Liquirice about Astrachan, The Land of the Calmuc-Tartars.  
ON the 17 ditto leaving Casan, we set Sail and that morning were aground 2 several times, 
Departure from Casan.  but without much difficulty got clear again.  
On the 18 we came close to an Island called Staritzo, where we anchored, our Pilot went ashore to view the said Island and coming about 3 furlongs within land found stones, of the shape and bigness of Lemons which being broken had within the similitude of a star, but those not all alike in Colour, for some were like Gold, others like Silver, and others of a Yellow and Tawny colour. This Island is situated in 45 degr. 31 min. being of itself about 3 Dutch Leagues in length and 2 broad.  
On the 19 we got the Island Potenski where we came to anchor expecting that a great storm would come on.  
Upon the 22 we sailed past the Buytma which is a branch of the famous River Lanca being about 12 Dutch Leagues from Casan. This same River has its Rise or Fountain about Chambretoky which lies to the North-east of Casan.  
Here we met with a company of Fishermen of whom we bought some Bream, which they take in great Abundance, and after an odd way, which if time had permitted us we would have learned.  
On the 23 we came to a very pleasant Coast where we went to ashore, and found there the Ruins of a great City which had been made waist by Tamarlan. While we lay here it began to blow very hard, and the next day we were fain to keep at anchor. In the mean time I went with some of our Ships Company to the Hill Arbuchin, where we found the Ruins of another City, bearing one name with the said Hill. In ascending the Hill we found a great stone with this Inscription in old Russian Words and Letters, IF THOU WILT REMOVE, THOU SHALT NOT LOSE THY PAINS. Some Russians had a mind to see what would come of it, 
JULY. 1669.  and after long digging and much struggling at last got it turned over, but, instead of finding a Treasure, met with another Motto, which was, THOU ASS GO SHAKE THY EARS. This vexed them so that they rather willed to let it stand in that posture, than take the pains to set it as it was before, to deceive others.  
The Land round about is very fair and withal of a fat Soil, yet not cultivated, for there are no Inhabitants, but the Relics of several Towns and Villages, formerly depopulated by the famous Tamerlan.  
On the 17 we sailed past the River and City of Adrobe, lying in the height of 54 degr. and 48 min. At the mouth of this River we were again set fast, and after much labour, and all the means we could imagine to be any way helpful, we gave the Ship and Yacht both over for lost, but in the Evening it began to Thunder, and abundance of Rain fell, that the River began to swell, and so set us adrift again.  
On the 29 we came before Calmaka, where were many Salt-pits and two new Towns. We found there several Pans where the Russes made their Salt, which they fetch out of great hollows and cavernal Rocks; this being boiled is sent up the Wolga in Stroughs, and so dispersed over the whole Country of Moscovia. These Salt-pits keep abundance of Men in employment, and is no small profit to the Overseers.  
On the 30th we set sail again, and after half an hours sailing ran aground upon a sand, where after much ado we got off, but with the Loss of an Anchor and 80 fathom of our Cable.  
The next day it began to storm very hard, wherefore we thought good to come to anchor, for the River was here about very perilous, and so we were fain to continue till the 4 of August.  
On the 5th of August we came to Morrakzy where we saw abundance of Fishers, of whom we bought some Caviar, and Sturgeon, having as much of that Fish as 20 Men could eat for the value of 11 stivers [or one shilling sterl. 
A great Storm. ] Here we were forced to tarry for the space of 24 Hours by reason of the hard Wind, lying near the Island Kistowato, where is a very shoaring or slanting strand on both sides, which makes the stream of the Wolga at that place very narrow and deep. Here we saw the River Ussa which encompassing Samara almost round, empties itself into the Wolga. On each side this River is a fair and pleasant Country so far as one can view: 
AUG. 1669.  but we were informed by the Russes that it was there very dangerous to travail by reason of Robbers, and the vagabond Cosaks, who kept themselves in the Woods, whence they sometimes sally out in whole bands, and surprise Passengers. The Cosaks also haunt the River, having Boats which are made long and small, with which they row admirably swift. On one side of the Ussa are some Mountains and amongst those one of an incredible height called Sariol Kurgan, where they say an Emperor of the Tartars with 70 Kings lie buried, when they came up the Wolga with intent to invade Russia; which Mountain being bare and rocky, they say that the Soldiers carried up so much Earth and Mold as was sufficient. Some of those Mountains are woody and other some bare stone and cliffs.  
On the 8th we sailed forward and came to Samara, which is so called from a certain River that runs through it; where it runs into the Wolga. The City is built four Square, and mostly of Wood; only the Churches and Cloisters are built of stone.  
The day following we saw the Mountain Cosak-krim, so called from the Cosaks which were there beat by the Moscovian Army; having sadly molested all the Country, under the subjection of the Czaar, by a continual Plundering: but having at that time received such an overthrow could never since complete so great a Body, as might be any way obnoxious to the Russians. Behind Samara the Mountains are very high, but Cosak-krim surpasses all the rest for height. About the going down of the Sun we sailed past the Island Pantzina and the next morning found ourselves, as far as Sagenisko.  
On the 11 we sailed past the Island Zagra, where we met divers. Fishers-boats and supplied ourselves with fresh Fish. Here we had news that a great number of Cosac-Rebells were entered the Island Satyry-Boggere, at the mouth of the Wolga, on the Caspian Sea, and annoyed the River.  
On the 12 we sailed by several Islands, namely Sasnow, Ossino, Schipnamago Koltof, and other not inhabited.  
The next day we saw the Mountain Smiowa, which in their Language is as much as to say, a Snake, or Dragon, having its name as I conjecture from its similitude of a Snake, rising up into hillocks and falling down again into gaps like a serpent when he creeps. Although the Russes as also the Inhabitants tell us a Fable of a famous Cavalier who went out to kill a monstrous Animal like a Snake, that wasted all the Country round about, and devoured every day 50 Men for a Breakfast. The Knight having killed the serpent it was metamorphosed into a Rock which is now this Mountain.  
The day following we came before Saratof, where we cast anchor, This City lies in 52 degr. 12 min. in a valley upon a Branch of the Wolga, on the larboard side in sailing down, and is only inhabited by a Military Officer and a Garrison of Soldiers to free the River and Country of the Cosacks and Calmuc-Tartars, whose Country is bounded here. These Calmucks are the most ugly and misshapen People in the World, worse favoured by far than the Hotentots or Moors, which are Angels in Comparison of those. Their Faces are broad and almost four square, their noses flat, their mouths reaching almost from one ear, to the other, their Eyes long and small, upon their Heads they wear a Quoif; the rest of their Habit is sufficiently denoted in the following Plate. They seldom go afoot but mostly on Horseback, as if they were Centaurs, for some of them do not only eat and drink but also sleep upon their Horses. Their only weapons is the Longbow which they use with an admirable Dexterity. There is a continual enmity between those and the Nagayans, for they perpetually steal one another's Children and cattle, which they bring to Astrachan to Market, for there they have 3 several market days, one for the Russians themselves, another for the Nagayans, and another for the Calmuc-Tartars, which 2 last-named may not come together, although they be both Mahometans, and under the Jurisdiction of the great Duke. The Calmuks dwell not in Towns as other People do; but travail all over the Country, pitching their Tents where they find a fertile fat Soil, which when their Horses, Camels, Cows and small cattle have eaten bare, they break up and march forward to find out some other place, as History records of the Scythians, who without dispute were the same People. Their chief and choice Diet is Horseflesh, which they eat raw after they have rode a little upon it, thrusting it between the Saddle and the Horse.  
Upon the 15 of August we sailed past 2 Islands, to wit, Criusna and Saponoufka, as also by the Hill Solottogory, which is as much as to say Goldhill, so called from a rich booty of Gold the Tartarians had once taken in a Caravan, which they divided among themselves by cap-fulls.  
On the 16 ditto we came before the River Ruslan on the left hand, right over against a round Hill called Vrakofskarul, from one Vrak, a Tartarian Prince who lies there buried. This Beck comes from the famous River 
* Which is also called Tanais and divides Europe from Asia, its course is from North to South, See Strabo lib. 2.  Don, upon which River those that are called the Don-Cosaks have their being, which also is the Country and Residence of Stenko Radzin. In the year 1668 the Russes had build a new City at the Mouth of the River Ruslan, to give a check to the Don-Cosacks, who much annoyed the Wolga with their small Boats, coming down the said River daily in great Troops, and committed many insolences: However it seems not much available; for they have devised a new mean to shun the Fort and come into the Wolga by drawing their Boats over land upon Wheels, which they do for 7 Dutch Leagues together, for the Country there is flat and even.  
The next day it began to blow very hard for which reason we were fain to remain that day at anchor, and on the 18th to set sail having a gentle Gale which brought us before the City Czaritza, which is as much to say Caesarea, or rather Empress, lying on the Right hand at the foot of a Hill. The City is in itself not great, but very strong munited with 6 Ramparts, or Bulwarks, besides other Fortifications. The Garrison is well maintained with Recruits of Strelitzers, being a Place of great Trust and Importance, especially for that it lies upon the Tartarian Continent.  
On the 19 we came before the Place where Czares-gorod of old had stood, by the Ruins thereof we could observe that City had been built of Brick. It was demolished besides many others by Tamerlan the Great. The stones have been of good use to those of Astrachan, wherewith they built their Walls. Towers, Churches and Monasteries.  
On the 20 we haled over several Riffs and shallow Fords, and at last ran ourselves aground upon a sand, where we stuck 3 hours before we could yet clear. From this place where we were fast all along the Banks to Astrachan, grows great plenty of Liquirice, but all the Land to the Caspian Sea waste, and not fit for Tillage.  
On the 21 we got the Island Wesaway, which we left on the Starboard-side, and that Evening came before Tzornogar, or Tzornojar, being in regard of any requisite occasion in such a place considerably strong: 
AUG. 1669.  it is environed with Palizados, and about an [English] mile without the Town. On each side are several Watch-houses, with Towers from whence they can see the Enemy at a distance, the Country being level and not Woody. The first occasion of the building of this City was said to be from a party of 400 Cosacks which had spoiled a Russian Caravan, intercepting it between the Land and the Boats, where the Strelitzers were, that were appointed to Convoy it, and by reason that the stream was so strong that the Boats could not row against it, the said Robbers made their escape with a very rich Booty. At that same time there was at Tzornogar a Persian Ambassador arrived with all his Movables and a great Retinue, intending for Moscou. The said Ambassador came aboard our Ship and received Presents from our Officers, which although he willingly accepted, yet remunerated them with things of greater value and worth.  
On the 22 we set sail and saw the Mountain Polowna where the Russian Fablers say the Moon goes every night to bed, because that over that Hill is always a great mist. About 2 in the afternoon we got the Island Kitzier in sight and sped our course so that we gained the sight of Astrachan before the Sun set.  
The 24 before noon by the grace of the Everlasting GOD we arrived at the long-wished-for Astrachan, where we for Joy fired all our Guns to the Astonishment of the Inhabitants, who had never seen a Ship of that Burden and Force before. From the day of our Arrival here, we lay off in the stream till the first of September and then came up close to the Key with our Ship and Yacht, thanking the Almighty for his special Bounty, in delivering us through so many perils, and bringing us at last to our desired Port.   

CHAP. XII. Situation of Astrachan. The Inhabitants. How Astrachan became subject to the Czaar. Strange manner of Tents, or Cottages. Provision very cheap and Brandy dear. A Desert affoarding good Salt, and a strange kind of Fruit. The Form and Nature of the Nagayan Tartars. Their Habit, manner of Life and House-keeping. Their Trades and way of earning money, Horseflesh, Mares-milk and Blood in great esteem by them.  
A Strachan lies upon the Dividing of Europe from Asia, 
AUG. 1669.  upon the Island Delgoy, in the Country of the Nagayan Tartars, 
Situation of Astrachan.  where the Northern Pole is elevated 46 degr. and 22 min. above the Horizon, and is about 50 Dutch Leagues from the Caspian or Hyrcan Sea. It is environed with a thick stone wall, and that time I was there furnished with 500 great Brass Cannon, besides a very strong Garrison, with Ammunition proportionable to defend it against the Tartars and Cosaks, who have often had a design to retake it. It gives a very noble prospect from abroad, with it's many Towers and Lofty Piles of Buildings, as well what appertain to the Fortifications as to the Churches and Religious Houses. It is a famous Town for Traffic, frequented not only by all the Regions of Tartary adjoining to the Caspian Sea, but also by Persians, Armenians and Indians, who bring their Goods and Merchandises in a certain sort of Shipping which they call Boeses, being about 80 Tun burden a piece. But these Vessels cannot Sail by traverse, but always before the Wind. Of all the several kinds of Merchandise which those of Astrachan deal in, Silk is the chief, so that this seems to be the sole Magazine of that Commodity, whence it is re-exported up the Wolga, and consequently through the whole Russian Empire.  
Astrachan has been formerly the Royal Seat of the Nagayan Tartars but making a League with the Crim-and Casan-Tartars was a means to detrude the King, and bring the People under the Subjection of the Grand Czaar of Moscovia, for according to the Tenure of their Alliance, each was obliged to assist other, whether upon offensiv or defensiv Occasions: so that Ivan Basilowitz, declaring war against those of Casan, they were assisted by the Nagayans, who were beat in open field, and after both Armies defeated, several Holds belonging to the Casans were taken and demolished. Astrachan at last itself was besieged and taken by storm by the said Great Duke, the Tartarians driven out, and peopled with Russians and a strong Garrison of that Nation. Astrachan, when in possession of the Tartars, was but a small town in comparison of what it now is, for the Father of the then Emperor when I was there had enlarged it by a 3d d part, and called the Addition Strelitza gorod, that is the Soldier-Town, for it is mostly inhabited by military persons: and since that time it has been continually augmented with new buildings. The Customs and Duties besides the Bartering of Commodities in this City is a considerable profit for the Czaar. 
Air and Soil of Astrachan.  The Air about Astrachan is very indifferent and tolerable as to it's Temperature, neither rendered unwholesome by the scorching heat of the Summer Solstice, nor in any case insufferable for the penetrating Frosts in the Winter, as if this place had the benefit of two Climates. Hence is the Soil also very fertile and the Country fructiferous beyond (I had almost said) any other Country in either of the temperate Zones, if the People and Inhabitants had but two Advantages in cultivating it, which tend mainly to the Improvement and maintenance of Agriculture, that is, an assured constant Peace, and the Mysteries of Husbandry which we have in the Westermost Countries of Europe. They have many and various kinds of select Fruits, as Water-Lemmons, Oranges, Apples, Pears, Cherrys, Damzons, etc. The Vineyards are in a short time very much improved, for before the year 1613 that Plantation was not known among them, till certain Persian Merchants bestowed a Vine upon a German, but a Proselyt and Monk of the Russian Church, which he planted in a Garden belonging to the Monastery: the same Vine thriving so well, caused divers great Merchants to do the like whose endeavours had in the space of 3 years that success, that they presented the Emperor with 200 Pipes of Wine, and 50 Pipes of Brandy, upon which the said Emperor gave them all the Encouragement he could to propagate that laudable beginning.  


1 D' voorstadt:  
2 Stadts Magesyn.  
3 Haet Slodt:  
4 Tooren Staende Int slodt:  
5 Bvee Niewe Cercke.  
6 E'en Cerck.  
7 D' Poort Vande Hoáte voorstadt:  
8 D' Vismardt.  
9 D' Sout Bergen.  
10 D' Revier De Wollega.  
11 Haet Tartarise Leaguer Onder. D' Beschermingh van D' Stadt.  
12 the Schip d' Adelaer.  
13 d' Calmicke Mard●:  
14 d' Boogaert:    
Astrachan being almost on every side surrounded with such a fruitful Country, has good plenty of all sorts of Fruit brought every day to Market; and those very cheap. Melons I have bought 10 or 12 for the value of a penny and other fruits after a conformable Price. Fish and Flesh they have in better plenty than any where else I know in the World. For the value of 3d d I bought a huge Sturgeon, a Carp weighing 30 pounds, and 25 Herrings, greater and fatter than ever I have seen in Holland. Perch, Pike, Bream and Sandaks are there so plentifully taken, that only poor people eat them, of which a family of 8 Persons may have as much as will suffice them, for the value of 3 farthings. The fish Sandach is a great Rarity, and proper only to the Wolga, and such Rivers as run into it: being about the bigness of a Haddock, and something like it in taste, but much more delicate and faster, if taken about November and the 3 following Months. Their Beef and Mutton is exceeding good, sold usually for a Farthing the pound. All kinds of Waterfowl are very plentiful and cheap, especially a sort of Wild-gees and those we call Moscovy-Ducks which the Tartars take with Hawks, and bring them in such plenty to Market, that they may be had for a penny the dozen. The Tartars who live chiefly by Fishing and Fowling use also Hunting, and in several woody Islands about Astrachan take many Wild-swine which are fed with Accorns, that being known for the best mast that is, for Hogs. These they also bring to Astrachan which by reason that that Flesh will take Salt well, they buy and use it aboard the shipping, that trade to and again in the Caspian Sea, the more because of its cheapness for none but the Moscovians and Armenians buy it, the Persians and Tartars themselves being mostly Mahometans, and therefore not permitted to eat it. To be brief, there is not that thing which may delight the palate, but may be had for a very mean and inconsiderable price, and at a far easier rate than the coursest Diet which necessitated people must be content with in the West of Europe; and if any man of a mean Estate could deny himself that Society of his Relations and Acquaintance in which every one has more or less solace, and retire thither, he may live as contentedly there as the greatest Lord, or richest Merchant in the World, who, as it were in taking Honey are frequently stung with the Bee, and in receiving Prosperity and Benefits from the right hand of Fortune, are as often buffeted with her left. However by way of exception I must mind you of one thing, that the Russians are here at a great Loss for Brandy, since the promulgation of a Late Edict, the tenure and purport whereof was, That no Brandy should be distilled there for a certain term of Years: but upon what insight it was that moved his Majesty to order such an Interdiction I know not; unless to prevent the Strelitzers, or Soldatesque, to forget themselves so far as to let the Tartars, which lie on every side the City, to surprise them with a sudden Invasion: for Brandy is not only under a special Interdiction of being made there, but also the Importation prohibited to a certain Quantity, every year, which makes the Russians the more to covet it, insomuch that sometimes they have drunk all the Kabacks and Brandy-cellars in Astrachan dry before 3 Months of 12 be about. At Nisen-Novogorod we bought a measure, holding about a Gallon for about 3 sh. 2 d. Sterl. which here when at cheapest is sold for 50 sh.  

Salt how gotten.  On the West side of the Wolga is a great dry and waste Heath called the Step, where they find abundance of good Salt, which is concreted in the Sun, and thrown up on Heaps like Ice. This Salt is digged out of the Hollows and Caves of Rocks, and proves a very rich Commodity, being exported aswell up the Wolga into all parts of Moscovia and Russia, as Persia, Armenia, Tartary and other Country's bordering upon the Hyrcan Sea. Every man is licenced to fetch it that lists, only allowing. Two pence halfpenny for 80 Pound, for duty to the Emperor.  

A strange kind of Fruit.  In this Heath, or Wilderness, called the Step is a strange kind of Fruit found, named Baronez, or Barnitsch, from the Word Boran, which is a Lamb in the Russian Tongue because of its form and similitude, much resembling a sheep having Head, Feet and Tail, and what is more worthy of Note, a skin of white shining Hair and soft as Silk. This Skin is held in great esteem by the Tartars and Russes, and sold for a good price, as I have paid myself sometimes 5 or 6 Roebels and doubled my money when I sold it again. One of those Skins is to be seen at the House of Mr. John Swammerdam, in Amsterdam, a Gentleman famous for collection of the Rarities of Nature from every place of the World: but that of his he had from a Seaman that had been formerly a Slave in China, where coming into a Wood, found of this Fruit, and brought away as many Skins as made him a Coat. The Description he gave of them, did very much agree with what the Inhabitants of Astrachan informed me of them. It grows upon a low Stalk about 2 foot and a half high, some higher, and is supported just at the Navel: the Head always hangs down as if it pastured, or fed, of the Grass, and when the Grass decays it perishes, but this I ever looked upon as ridiculous, although the Inhabitants asseverated to me by many Oaths, that they have often out of curiosity made experience of that, by cutting away the Grass, upon which it instantly fades away. However what I might further add as to what they say of this Fruit, and what I myself believe in the wonderful Operations of a secret Sympathy in nature, I shall rather keep to myself, than aver, or impose upon the Reader, what, I am sensible will be universally exploded for a Fable. Certain it is there is nothing which is more coveted by Wolves, than this, and the Inward parts of it are more congruous with the Anatomy of that Animal, than Mandrakes are with Men.  
The Nagayan and Crim-Tartars are thick and corpulent, broad-faced, and litle-eied. The Eyes of the Men are wrinkled like old Wives. Their Beard grows very slovenly, here and there a hair, and shave their Heads bare on the Crown; yet these are not altogether so ugly as the Calmucs. Their Habit is altogether as gentile as their Persons are comely, their upper vestment either of a very course stuff with every thread as fine as a Tobacco-pipe, or else of Sheepskins with the Wool-side outward, their Caps and Hose of the same colour, where they wear any, for they use as little Rigging as they can. The Women like the Calmuccers wear a course linen Coat and round Caps, bulging out like a Helmet. Their Firstborn Children are generally dedicated to some Saint, or other, in token whereof if it be a male, he wears a Ring in his right Ear, but if a Girl in her right Nostril.  
In the Summer season they have no fast place, but pasture over all the face of the Country as we have said of the Calmucs. When they march they carry their Tents upon high Wagons made on purpose, and so take their Wives and Children with them, and drive their cattle before them, their Movables they set upon Camels, Horses and sometimes upon Kine. Thus they go up and down all the Summer; and when the Winter approaches pitch together about Astrachan, appearing like a great Army; where they can assist each other in time of need against the Calmucks their perpetual Enemies, who when the Wolga freezes sometimes assail them: and to the end that they may the better oppose their said Enemies in such case, the Waywode, or Governor of Astrachan provides them Arms, which at the breaking up of the Camp they are to redeliver, and for security send some of their chief Princes as a Pledge to Astrachan, where they are committed to the Citadel; and upon their restoring of their Ammunition are surrendered into their hands again.  
The Nagayans follow the Fishing-trade, as also Fowling, Hunting and Pasturing of cattle, and are reputed the best Herdsmen in the world. Their Kine are generally great, their Sheep very fair and fat, having great Tails like the Rams in Palestine, some weighing 20 or 30 pound a piece, their noses bending upwards, and their Ears hanging like a Spanial. Their Horses are but ugly shaped, but very durable in running. They have also some Camels but not many. Their chief Diet is dried Fish which they use in stead of Bread. They have also a way of making bread of Rice, which they knead in Oil and Honey, and so bake it in Cakes. All kinds of Flesh they eat, except Swine, holding Horseflesh for the best. Their Drink is Water and Milk, esteeming Mares-milk above all other. They profess the Mahometan Religion, and are of the Persian sect. The Czaar allows them Laws and Judges of their own. They are also Tribute-free, but in stead of Tribute are to bring several Thousand men to field upon occasion.   

CHAP. XIII. Divisions and Limits of the Cosacks. The Offspring of Stenko. The Reason of his Revolting. The first beginning of his Insolency. His treacherous Cruelty: The Governor of Astrachan makes preparation against him. He betakes himself to flight and reconciles himself with the Czar. The Incredible Riches and costly Attire of the Cosacks. The Person of Stenko Radzin described. The meeting and discourse of the Author with Stenko Radzin. He keeps a Persian Princess for his Concubine, which he throws with his own hand into the Wolga. His Punishment for Adultery.  
ON the 3 of September came several Dutch Officers aboard, 
SEP●. 1669.  who bade us welcome and invited us respectiuly to their Houses, where we went, and were kindly received and entertained. Just upon our Arrival here the Russian Fleet was set out against the Cosaks. But before I treat any thing about that Expedition I shall give you a praevious Narrative of an Uproar raised and headed by Stenko Radzin, and then the rest in order.  
There are two Nations of the Cosacks, the Saporoksky, and the Donsky. 
Two sorts of Cosacks.  The former of these were sometime subjects to the Polish Crown, and keep themselves about the Boristhenes and Kiof, upon 50 Islands which are environed with that famous River. They call those Islands in their own proper Tongue Porog, which is as much as to fay Stairs, and therefore are called Saporogsky. Their work is to watch the Irruption of the Tartars or other Enemies upon the Polish Territories. They are called Cosacks from the Slavonian word Cosa, which is as much as to say a Spirit, by reason of their admirable celerity of Motion, being always ready at hand upon occasion. The Donski or Don-Cosaks are those who live upon the famous River Tanats, by the Natives called Don, and are properly under the Jurisdiction of the Czar, although more out of their free and voluntary disposition; for they have been endowed with many Privileges, as to have their own Princes, Judges and Laws, as also a General of their Army whom they themselves Elect. As also this Immunity that when a Moscovian Slave runs away from his Lord, and betakes himself within their Territories, they are not obliged to deliver him up unless themselves list. Of this People last mentioned was Stenko Radzin the famous Rebel born, who, as we have said, so stoutly opposed the Emperor Alexius Michailowitz.  
The first occasion of this Revolt (as himself confessed) was to revenge his Brother's death, who was killed by an Eminent Personage, whose name was jury Alexowitz Dolgeroeky in the year 1665. The Brother of Radzin was at that time in the service of the great Duke in the Polish Wars, under the command of the before mentioned Bojar, jury Alexowitz Dolgeroeky, who commanded in chief: and when the Camp broke up to go into their Garrisons, the young Radzin desired to be discharged with his Men, having done the Emperor very good service in that last Expedition, and that then there was no more occasion for their Aid: but the General refused to let them go, as not having any certain Intelligence that the Hostility were sent to their Winter-quarters. The Cosaks were hereat greatly discontented, being Volunteers, and had deserved yet greater Civilities than their Request, or than ever they had received from the Russians: they therefore marched off silently, led by their Colonel, brother to this said Stenko Radzin, which was so badly resented by the General, that he took the Colonel, and hanged him. This was the sum and ground of his revolting, which prompted him not only to employ his Weapons against the Russians, but aswell against the Persians.  
In the year 1667 he began to commit many Insolences and himself and all his crew betaking themselves to the Wolga, where they took all the small Shipping they met with, and plundered them, killed and threw over board all the Men, unless they would admit themselves into their Company: They entered also all the Towns seated near the River, where they pillaged the Churches and Monasteries. From hence he took his way directly for jaik, which he took in and set a strong Garrison. From hence he marched toward the Caspian Sea gathering vast multitudes of discontented Persons, who came upon the noise of Rebellion from all parts. From the Caspian Sea he went for the Wolga by the way committing many Insolences, plundering and sinking all the small Shipping, wasting and depopulating of Cities and Villages, and using the People very inhumanly if they would not resolve to join in that Rebellion. From hence he went to the City Terku, and so onwards to the Bounds of Persia, where he also sadly molested the Subjects of that King, as well as those of the Czar. 
AUG. 1669.  The Inhabitants of a small Persian City hearing of his approaching deserted the Town and betook themselves to the Hills and Mountains without the Town, where they though themselves secure from his violent and tyrannical Actions. Stenko Radzin perceiving that, sent out Emmissaries to see where they kept themselves, with Instructions, to tell them that his End was not to do any harm to their Persons or Estates; but only to buy Provision for his Money, and therefore willed them to return into the City. The Persons who were sent did their message, and the credulous Citizens came down entered their Houses, and set open their shops, of whom Radzin and his followers bought several Commodities and Necessaries paying them to the utmost farthing: but had given a token to his Men by setting of his Cap after an unusual Manner, upon which they were all on a sudden to fall upon the Townsmen and massacre them, which after a most barbarous Manner they did, sparing neither Man, Woman, nor Child.  
The Waywode of Astrachan, whose name was Ivan Simonowitz Prosorofski, hearing how many places they had despoliated in the Country of the Medes and upon the Borders of Persia, thought it high time to put himself in a Posture of Defence, and suppress the growing Army of the Malcontents; he in order thereto caused all the Shipping as well Merchantmen as others to be put into an equippage, and dispatches Simeum Ivanowits' Geboof, who had then the third suffrage of Astrachan, to find out the Cosacks-Rebells, and give them battle. This Navy consisted of 36 Stroegs, and about 40000 Men. The Rebels had already 22 Stroegs with a proportionable number of Men, keeping themselves about the Island Satyry Boggere, which lies about the Entrance of the Wolga into the Caspian Sea, where they had set up a Watch-House upon the Top of a high Hill, from whence they could view the whole Country round about, as also the Caspian Sea and the Wolga. This Island lay very commodiously for their Ends being all along the Coast of a high solid Rock, and had only one way to enter it.  
So soon as the Cosacks saw the Astrachan Fleet approach, they put off their Shipping, and betook themselves to flight, so that that Expedition was in vain. Seeing now that the Cosaks kept themselves together and would not come to open battle, their were new Measures deliberated upon either by fair or foul means to suppress the Rebels. 
JUNE. 1669.  It was not long before the Waywod Prosorofski received Letters from the Czaar, with a Pardon for Stenko Radzin on condition he would submit to the Emperor, and for the future demean himself as a loyal subject. The subtle Cosack not expecting so gracious a tender, accepted of the Emperor's Grace, being already by Hunger and other extremities brought to such a state, that he would of his own accord have requested it, for they were then put to a short allowance, and had taken a Persian Boes having some Horses aboard that were sent to the Czaar, from the King of Persia for a present; these they took, killed and used very sparingly, whence it may be gathered in what a mean condition they were. Having thus obtained an assurance of Pardon from the Emperor, they marched forward for Astrachan, where they were very kindly received, and congratulated by those of the Townsmen, every one of them appearing in the most splendid manner he could, for they had rifled many gentlemen's Houses where they found always Apparel, Jewels and other Plunder for habit and Ornament. Stenko Radzi the Ringleader of that Rout, could not be distinguished from the rest, but by the Honour which was done him, being saluted by the name of Batske, Father; and certainly he was a father of many impious Sons. I have seen him several times upon the Stroegs and in the City; he is a brave man as to his person, and well proportioned in his limbs, tall and straight of Body, pock-pitted, but only so as did rather become than disfigure him, of a good conduct, but withal severe and cruel, as has been already instanced. The Cosacks who were his Followers came daily into Astrachan where they sold their Booty which was very rich and costly. The Silk they sold for a 3d of the currant value, which was bought up of the Persian and Armenian Merchants. I bought a Gold-chain of one of them which was almost a fathom long, and in joints like a Bracelet, between each piece were precious stones: the price I gave for it was not fully 7 pound sterl. Shortly after their Arrival Captain Butler went to visit him, taking 2 bottles of Brandy along with him, which he thought might be an acceptable present, since they had been so long at Sea, and presented them to him and his Minion, whom the Russians called Devils-whisker by a Nickname. When we came to his Tent; and desired admittance, he sent to know who we were; Answer was returned him that we were Dutch, 
JULY. 1669.  and employed in the service of the Czaar, upon a Ship in the Caspian Sea. He forthwith gave order to a Gentleman to conduct us into his Tent where himself and some of his Council sat, and caused us to sit down, took our present in good part, and drank the Emperor's health. Another time we went through the Camp where we saw him going aboard a Yacht to divertise himself upon the Water, with some of his Officers: he had with him a Persian Princes which he had taken, together with her Brother. The Brother he presented to the Waywod of Astrachan, but the Sister he kept for his Concubine. Being now in the height of his Cups, and full of Frolicks, bragged of the many presents he had given and received since his being restored to the Emperor's favour, and on a sudden brake out into those Extravagant terms, speaking to the Wolga: Well, said he, thou art a noble River, and out of thee have I had so much Gold, Silver and many things of Value. Thou art the sole Father and Mother of Fortune and advancement: but, unthankful man that I am? I have never offered thee any thing: well now, I am resolved to manifest my gratitude. With those words he took her into his Arms and threw her into the Wolga, with all her rich Habit and Ornaments; her attire was of rich Cloth of Gold, richly set out with Pearls, Diamonds and other precious Stones. The Lady was of an angelical Countenance and amiable, of a stately carriage of Body, and withal excellently well qualified as to her Parts, being of a singular wit, and always pleasing in her demeanour towards him, when he was in the heat of fury, and yet at last became the instance of his Cruelty. However there is no man so addicted to any one Vice but there are ever more some sparks of virtue. His own outrages as to the sin of Adultery he would allow himself, but would not indulge or dispense with it in others. It happened that a certain Soldier of the Cosacks had been taken in the action with another's wife: this being made known to Stenko, he caused them both to be instantly apprehended, and the man to be thrown into the River with great stones made fast to his neck and heels: but for the Adulteress he provided another punishment which was to erect a Pale on the Water side, and tying her by the feet caused her to be so dragged along the Earth, and from the Tent to the Pale which was almost 2 [English] miles', and there hoist up, where she hung 48 Hours before she died, and yet nevertheless the great torment of which she must needs be sensible, all that time she never was heard to shriek or cry out.  
Besides the many Robberies and great insolences they had committed, as well within Land as in Sea-Towns in Persia, as at Nisabath, Scabaran, Mardore and Tackusi situated near the famous Hill Barmach, from hence they went to Astrabath and Bachu which they surprised took in, and plundered, committing many barbarous actions in massacring of the Inhabitants and setting the Houses on fire. Here they found a great Quantity of Wine, which they divided among themselves, and caroused so long, till they were all besotted and drunk, being about 6000 Men in all. In the mean while the Persians had drawn down several Companies, and all on a sudden fell on this Rout, and made such a slaughter that the twelfth part, or little more were left alive and Stenko himself 5 times in danger of being taken. The Remainder betook themselves to the Stroegs. This so much weakened them that they were not in a capacity to do any considerable damage by land, the more by reason the Persians watched their Coast with very great vigilancy; as did also the Cosacks and Dagestan Tartars, so that they were constrained for some time together to keep off at Sea, and keep close to Piracy, where every one was well warned of them and consequently so cautious that they got but very little Booty. But finding that they could not long subsist they were forced to land at Satyry Boggere an Island (of which before) where they waited for what Providence would allot them.   

CHAP. XIV. 
JUNE. 1669.  Stenko returns back and is followed by many Russes, but opposed by an Order from Psoforoski, which Stenko disobeys. He returns again with a greater Power. The Waywode of Astrachan sends out a Fleet against him, which shamefully yields. The Officers murdered. A great Perplexity at Astrachan, Power and Aw of Stenko. His cruelty and Pride. His Legates are devoured of Dogs in Persia. Kumuskinka surrendered by Treachery.  
STenko Radzin whose implacable fury against some that had interposed themselves to incite the Emperor against him, and to deprive him of his favour, would not suffer him to remain still; but their bodies being now somewhat assuaged which before were swollen with drinking of salt Water, and their Vitals again revived with fresh Diet, which were almost spent with long fasting during the time of their extravagancies, they resolved to go for Don, and to visit their respective homes. Radzin gives them a short warning to prepare for a March, and in order thereto gets all things in a readiness himself.  
Some discontented Russians seeing the Cosacks ready to depart, they came and desired to list themselves under his Conduct, to which he readily assented, and by fair Promises drew abundance after him.  
It happened sometime before he designed to leave the Town that meeting with about 20 or more Russians whom he could see by their countenance to be inclinable to follow him; these he fell in discourse with, and liberally distributed a Bag of Gold among them, promising them that if they would follow him they should far no worse than he. This was encouragement enough for them who did not only list themselves, but persuaded also many of their Friends to take the like Course, and join their Fortunes, amongst whom were divers that were in the Emperor's Service.  
The Governor of Astrachan coming to understand that several Persons in the service of the great Duke, his Master, had withdrawn and listed themselves among the Rebels, he sent one Wederos a Captain of the Strelitzers to Radzin, with Instructions to demand the Russians, and to will him to send them back upon pain of the Emperor's Disfavour, which should not be so easily accommodated as before, when perhaps he should be compelled to make satisfaction for the former Crimes with the new. 
AUG. 1669.  The Captain goes to fulful his Order, and declares to Radzin the Reason of his coming, and his Message, who would not so much as allow him Audience; but when the Captain began to insist hard upon the remitting of the Men, Radzin was so enraged that he drew his sword and threatened Death, if he persisted any longer, and with that made towards him, but the Captain being a discreet Gentleman demeaned himself very fairly, when he saw him in such a Rage, so that he escaped that Danger, and all the vent of Radzin's fury melted away in these words, How dare you, said he. make such an impudent Demand? shall I then betray my Friends who have out of a pure inclination to me ward deserted their nearest Allies and Fortunes? and shall I be threatened with loss of Favour to boot? Prithee, go tell thy Master, that I equally value him and the Emperor, and let him know that I shall be with him ere he be aware, and reward him for this Protervity. The Captain was fain to smother his thoughts, and contented himself with this Answer which he related to the Governor. The Governor hereupon assembles a Council, and consulted what to do; learning from the answer of Radzin that he intended to come down again, and so it happened, for within 3 days he began to march toward the Wolga, where he had 80 Stroegs and other Shipping provided, filled with Ammunition and Men, but did not at first any hostile feat. The Waywod of Astrachan called a Counsel the second time, where it was concluded that so long as Radzin did not do any attempt or violence upon any Town belonging to the Emperor, he should not oppose him till the whole Navy were come together.  
About fourteen days after the whole Fleedarrived, consisting in a great Number of Stroegs with about 6000 Strelitzers, or Soldiers besides Powder, shot and Provision. No sooner was the Fleet arrived but Radzin by his Emmissaries had Intelligence of their whole aim employing such persons therein as he thought lest suspected. He therefore intimates his mind to some of those in whom he could repose best confidence, to run away and oyn them to the Governors' Forces under name and colour of Deserters. These sped them away to the Astrachan Fleet and feigned themselves discontented with the abuses which they pretended to have suffered by Radzin, and were accepted in frienldy manner by the adverse Party, who the rather did it for that they had hopes of a discovery and detection of Radzins' Councils. But so soon as they were under Sail and almost close with the Enemy, the Villains on a sudden and unanimously fell upon the Officers, 

The Officers of the Astrachan Fleet murdered.  
The great perplexity at Astrachan.   and dispatched them surrendering the rest with the whole Fleet into the Hands of the Cosacks, Radzin having got so rich a prey without any difficulty or dispute, instantly ordered his men two Months Pay in hand, with promise of free enjoyment of what they should take by Plunder, besides other Means of Encouragement.  
The Governor was not a little dismayed at these tidings, the more when he understood how the Commonalty murmured against him, and that Radzin was in general laudably spoke of, and that not only in Astrachan but aswell in all the Towns round about that were under the subjection of the Emperor. The Strelitzers who had not in a long time received Pay, and hearing how Radzin had given his men 2 Months pay in hand found now occasion to grow mutinous, and that so unanimously that the Government and Officers durst not oppose them by any rigorous course or violent mean, but did all they could to persuade them by fair words and promises.  
Radzin finding himself grow stronger and stronger, 
Radzins' Power and Aw.  and that with the Russes now under his command, he had about 16000 Men, he unshiped a part of the Men, and sent some to Czaritza, and others to Txarnojar but he himself remained upon the Fleet, where he was as much respected as a King, and had a sovereign awe over the People. 
His kruelty when drunk.  When he was drunk few of the Officers durst appear in presence, for it was very customary with him, for a small offence to behead a Man, although the greatest Minion or Favourite he had: The meaner sort were in no danger, for those were wont to flatter him, and upon a Wink would dispatch their Officers, when he had taken any dislike against them, and therefore willing to have them removed, and others in their place. Thus by giving ear to the Commons more than to the Officers he became more dreadful and formidable for the sole command and direction of the whole Army lay in himself. This besides that gave the Rabble such encouragement that in the space of 5 days after he had got the Astrachan Fleet, his Army was raised from 16000 to 27000 Men, being a mixed multitude of Peasants, Slaves Tartars and Cosacks, and men of restless minds from all Parts, being tickled with the thoughts of free enjoyment of Plunder. These running to and again over the face of the Country, committed many inhuman acts, 
SEPT. 1669.  and murdered the Gentry, who were fain to belake themselves to Astrachan disguised in Slave's Apparel. The Pesantry who indeed are very tyrannically dealt with throughout all the Emperor's Dominions, here found an occasion to be revenged of their Liege-Lords, and to show their Manhood brought the Heads of their Lords and threw them at the feet of a Provost or Executioner there to ordained, who gave them a reward for their Pains.  
Radzin being arrived to this Pitch of Greatness was so puffed up as is he had conquered all the Empire; 'tis true he refused the Title of Emperor, saying, that hes purpuse was not to rule as Lord and Sovereign but to live with them as a Brother to revenge that Tyranny and Oppressions which they had for so many gears, and their Progenitors for so many ages passed suffered against all Reason and the Law of Nature. But on the other side, he mainly opposed the King of Persia, and assumed the confidence to Dispalck Ambassadors to that Court to whom he delivered Instructions, full of lofty-proud swelling Titles, and in his Compellation styled the Sophy, Brothen. The Main and Sum of his Memorials and Instructions was. To urge the Sophy to enter into an Alliance with him, and to supply him with Ammunition of war for his Money and what else he might have occasion for. The said Legates were ordered at first to insist upon this by soft means, but in case of refusal te menace the Sophy, and to let him understand that he, (the said Radzin) had 200000 Men ready to invade his Territories, and that he would lake occasion to visit him when he least dreamt on it, etc. So Soon as the King had understood their Instructions were to threaten him in case he refused to comply with Readzins' Proposals, he sent for them and having an Executioner at hand made him forthwith chop off their hiads with a Scimmatar, 
The Legates of Radzin beheaded am their Bodies thrown to the Dogs.  and commanded that their Rodies should be throw to the Dogs which were kept in the Kennel on purpose, reserving only one to acquaint their Master how kind a Receptian they had m●t with at the Persian Court, and gave him a short but sharp Memorial for Radzin, threatening to come ere long and chaw those Boars which had so depopulated the utmost Borders of his Dominions, at what time he would not throw him living but dear to the hungry Mastirs. This Cosack Envoye glad to come of so well with Soul and Body inseparate came only to deliver Radzin the Result of his unsuccesful Ambassage; 
APRIL. 1670.  upon which the Rebel was so nettled that he commanded an Executioner to hew him into morsels for Raven's meat.  
Radzins' Passion being over he did all he could to increase his Fleet and Army, for which end he dispatched several Emmissaries to allure the Russian Soldatesque to desert their service, in divers Towns upon the Wolga, judging those the fittest for his Turn, for that they were the best acquainted with the Intrigues of the Russian Militia, and consequently the more serviceable upon occasion of attacking any Town or Fort he designed upon. Thus having accomplished his Ends with very good success, he Musters up his Forces, and sends some of the Strelitzers to Kamuschinka, who were to go under the Notion of Imperial command (for as yet they had no further Intelligence from Moscou, since the Rebels left Astrachan) these then pretending to come from the Czaar, to advise the Governor how he should behave himself, in case they attacked the Town, were caressed by the Military Officers, and consequently so much confided in, that they found an opportunity to dispatch the Governor and almost all the Officers of the Garrison, having before hand created the Remaining party Members of Rebellion, and immediately fired a Gun, which was a Token to Radzin that he should Approach and surprise the Town, which he did with expetible success, and planted a Garrison of Cosacks, removing the Russian Strelitzers into the Navy.   

CHAP. XV. The Animosities and Tumults in Astrachan. Stariza taken in by the Cosacks. A Fleet sent out against them. The Cosacks win Tzarnojar. The Russian Fleet yields to the Cosaks. The great Insolency and boldness of the Mobile of Astrachan. The valour of the Waywod or Governour. Advised to abscond or absent himself, which is put in practice.  
THese Tidings coming to Astrachan, was the occasion of no small murmurings and Jealousies among the Townsmen, none knowing who was friend and who was Enemy, or in whom they might rely on, or repose any trust; insomuch that many discontented persons began to make Factions and breath Rebellion, though not so openly as that the Government could take advantage to suppress it. The Waywod Prosorofski considering that the Commonalty were very much incensed, and that some mutinous Enterprise was a hatching, he assembles the Lords and Council of Astrachan, to consult with their Judgements what was best to be done in those imminent Dangers and Juncture of Affairs, and what course they should take to sedate those Animosities and Heats, which illaffected persons endeavoured to raise and foment among the Townsmen and Plebeïans; as also what manner of Defence to use against the approaching Enemy. As to the former they concluded, that there was no better way to remedy it, than to conduct themselves warily in the latter, and first obstruct the growing Power of the Rebels, which Perils being removed it might not then be doubted but that the Commons would be the better and sooner pacified. Upon this Resolution several worthy Gentlemen presented their Service to go as private Soldiers upon that sudden and urging Expedition, not daring any more to put the least Confidence in the Strelitzers.  
On the 10 of April 1670 the Bojar Petrofski dispatched 800 Horse under the Conduct of Col. Levonti Bogdanof, whereof 400 were Russians, the rest Nagayans, to furnish the City Stariza, (lying about 80 Germane miles from Astrachan) with Ammunition and necessary Provision, and to strengthen that Place with those Men, which lies upon the River Don or Tanais, where the Cosacks have their Residence. This River was of old supposed to run into the Wolga, as some Geographers have been pleased to write, but later experience has fairly contradicted that opinion, for their Boats which are no more than trunks of trees hollowed, they are fain to drag and trail a days Journey over Land before they find the Wolga, at the nearest distance those Rivers lie to each other, where when they are come they tie heavy Balks on each side to keep them above Water, and to give them a due balance and poise in their floating.  

Stariza taken in by the Cosacks.  On the 28 came an Express to Astrachan from Col. Bogdanof, with news that the Cosacks had already taken in Stariza, and had killed 1200 Moscovian Strelitzers, who were but newly come thither before the Siege, this Relation was given the Colonel by a Captive Cosack. The Waywod also got intelligence how that the Field-Tartars were in great discord among themselves, and that their Factions were so far advanced, that they were become open Hostility, and their Power wasted by intestine strife; upon which Colonel Bogdanof was marched on to Czornojar, which is an Imperial Town, about 50 Germane miles from Astrachan. The said Captive Cosack was so tortured on the Rack, that the most hardhearted Russians then present had compassion of him, yet nothing could be forced from him but what he made voluntary confession of, before he came to the Rack.  
By this time the Emperor had got full intelligence of the Tumult of the Cosacks, and of Radzins' purpose, together with his barbarous massacres already committed upon his Subjects, and that he continually depopulated his Country, he gave order to levy new Forces, in place of the Old, which were to be sent upon this Expedition, as also as many Stroegs as could on a sudden be put in Equippage, for which end the Deputies of the Towns upon the Wolga did their utmost to complete a Fleet of 40 Sail. Upon each Stroeg was only one great Gun, but other Ammunition as much as was necessary for so many men as the Stroegh was capable or fit to carry. Aboard the said Fleet were 2600 Russian Strelitzers, and 500 volunteers of Astratay under the Conduct of Simeum Ivanowitz Elbof a Kneezes, who was for the time being made Commander in chief. These men were of the Regiment of Ivan Rusinski a Polander, but baptised a Russian Proselyte, whose Lieutenant was one James Wonderham, a Scottish Gentleman. The other Commanders were Capt. Paul Rudolph a German. Capt. Robert Heut an Englishman, and Nicholas Schaack who was our Lieutenant, being made a Captain by the Russians. Besides two other Germane Lieutenants and two Ensigns of that Nation, who were also Russian Proselytes. The rest were Moscovians and Polonians.  
On the 25 of May being Whitsunday, the Fleet left Astrachan, and the Cosack who was tortured almost to death hanged up in their sight. In the mean while the Citizens and Commons began to buzz and murmur against the Deputy and the Officers, and grew so bold that they reviled him when he road through the Town, he not daring to suppress them for fear of a greater irruption of that rebellious Fire, which lay still unsmothered, till he understood the success of Simeum Ivanowitz, 
MAY. 1670.  whose happy arrival the Deputy and all peaceably minded persons earnestly longed for: the City being now in a very weak condition and low, since the Levying of those that were sent out with Simeum Ivanowitz, and consequently the Mobile the bolder. But on the 4 of june, by a Gentleman who had made his Escape, they had notice of the Affairs of Tzornojar, that on the same day that the Knees Elboof made his appearance the Town was taken in, and that the Governor and Officers were all massacred and their Bodies thrown into the River: and further, what was more deplorable, the Private Soldatesque of Knees Elboof had murdered all their Officers in the Fleet, declared themselves for the Cosacks, and surrendered all the Shipping into the Hands of Stenko Radzin the grand Bell-wether, or Ringleader of the Rebels; although immediately before their coming at Tzornojar they had unanimously sworn, to live and die with their Leaders. The Report of these things, although the Governor endeavoured to smother as much as was possible, gave the Rabble greater Occasion to mutiny than they had before; yea, so far they were induced, that they publicly reproached the Superiority that they durst not look out of their doors, or windows, much less walk the streets to consult together of means to remedy the distemper of affairs, to defend themselves against the Hostility abroad, and to suppress intestine Jars at home, for it was no rare thing now to see the Rabble assemble togethers in heaps, and before the Doors of the Magistrates to cry out with infamous and bitter Rail, Now, now, the times begin to alter, it will be our turn next to Lord it, you villains come out and show yourselves to the World, etc.  
The Governor in the mean while lost no courage on his part, and the Gentry and Officers still continued under hopes of Assistance from the Field Army, and new succour and Recruits from Moscou. The Deputy therefore caused all the Ordnance to be visited and laden by the Germane Gunners, and gave orders to furnish themselves with necessary Ammunition. However we could very well remark, that were the Officers never so sedulous, they were never able both to defend themselves from such a Power without, and be secure for Mutiny within, of which many Reasons were given to the Waywode, and he as often forewarned by divers prudent Persons. The Waywod Prosorofski would willingly have had us in the Town-service, but being we were taken on for the Ships use, 
JUNE. 1670.  we judged it best to stay where we were, the more for that we knew the Cosacks were more severe against Foreign Auxiliaries, than the Moscovians if once made Captives.  
In the mean while we heard continual News of the approaching of the Cosacks, to attack Astrachan, which had its inward state been in all things conformable to the Muniments of that Town, they needed not fear 100000 undisciplined men as are the Cosacks, for to say nothing of the Ramparts and Fortifications of the Walls, there lay about four hundred and sixty great brass Guns in the Battlements, besides, those of the Citadel. Every day we expected new troubles, and commotions, insomuch that we thought it not fit to stay there any longer, lest we should be massacred in the Uproar, but no one of us durst speak their minds, or be the first mover of such means to save our lives, for that it might seem to stink too much of Rebellion, nor could we know how it might be resented. However it came so far that Captain Butler began also to dread some ill might befall us if we did not consult our Safety betimes; he therefore upon a time called us all together, and uttered his mind in these, or the like words. Gentlemen, I doubt not but that you a●e all sensible of the present danger which hangs over our Heads, and that there is not much hope left to hazard our Persons any longer here, the Sum of what I have to say is briefly to advise and request of you all to pack up what you have into the Shallop, and that we forthwith betake ourselves to the Persian Coast, and take what GOD in in his bountiful Providence is pleased to allot us. He ordered us further to get all in a readiness to be aboard before the Gates were shut, for that he was not resolved to wait one quarter of an hour for any Person: in the mean while we made a quick dispatch, and in a moment had got our best Goods aboard, and all what we thought worth our while to bring along. Our Captain advised us not to take 2 of our Company with us, Brak and Trappen, because they had wives and children, and consequently would both be a cumber for us, and uneasiness for themselves on so dangerous a Voyage: but I having compassion with my neighbour Brak, I made him come aboard with his Wife and Child; but Trappen was not willing to leave Astrachan, unless he had been better furnished with Money than he was, or something else in lieu thereof. We were 15 Men, besides a Woman and a Child in the Shallop where we still waited for the Captain and two other Persons whose Goods we had with us in the Boat. After a long expectation we saw no Captain come, it growing late in the Evening, and our Men impatient of delay would needs thrust off from the Wall, but Lambert Helt the Master restrained us all he could, saying, That it was what we could not answer, etc. Thus we stayed waiting till the Gates were to, still expecting their coming, but midnight already come and no tidings of them we began to be in a hundred Fears: some were of Opinion that the Captain was gone in a Knote or some other small Vessel with the other two Gentlemen that were with him, or that he was taken and secured: others were jealous that the Wife of Trappe● had betrayed us. Thus in great fear we lay all the time, not knowing what course to take, well knowing that if the Russes had understood our Purpose, it would have cost us our lives, nor had we dared to stay so long had not our Shallop lay on the other side of the Ship from the Town-ward, and therefore out of sight: Nor could we be easily induced to believe that they would mistrust our venturing our lives in the Sea with such a Boat. Thus we resolved by the grace of GOD to thwart the Caspian Mere and so for the Persian Coast, and rather trust to the divine Providence of Heaven, than confide in the uncertain Mercies of unreasonable Men.   

CHAP. XVI. They fall down the Wolga, and miss their Course. Then touch at Oetzjoege. The strange manner of fishing of the Bieloege. The great plenty of Caviar. They meet with great difficulty to gain the Caspian Sea; which at last they get. A description of the Island Satyry Boggere, Tall Reeds grow all along the Coast. A dreadful Tempest. The Golden Bay. Their meeting with a Tartarian Bark. A description of Terki. The Beginning of the Circas-Tartars; Their Persons and Complexions described. Their Habit and Way of Living. Of their Women, their Habit, Humours and Inclinations. Their Idolatry.  
Steur vangst inde Rivier de WOSGA 

A. Waght ●raysen aen weder sydts des Wolga.  
B. Haet Pael-were●.  
C. De Caspische Zee.    
When we were come to this Place, The Tartars would not convoys any further, saying, If you were but sensible of the difficult passage 〈◊〉 get the Sea, you would keep you where you are; but, added they, if you 〈◊〉 resolve to go, when you are at Oetsjoege you may set your course directly forward till you come at the Sea. This we were forced to take in good part, an● pay them for their pains. The money we conditioned for satisfie● them very well, but at parting they told us, that they were afraid 〈◊〉 would not easily get through, whereas they knew no better but there was a stri● watch held on each side the Wolga. This last startled us not a little however we resolved unanimously hap hazard to venture through let what would follow, adjudging it equally safe to run that peri● or to suffer the Calamities we were liable to, and had in some regard deserved: and in that resolution continued sailing till we found th● Stakes or Pale-work so close in the Mouth of the River, that the● was only a narrow Passage to go through. About the end of the sai● passage we saw a Redoubt, which at a distance seemed to be ver● strongly fortified, which mainly increased our fears, but greatly t● our good luck we found no Watch but only a few Fishers, who ha● no Authority, or warrant to examine, us, insomuch that we steere● boldly through; but considering our Bread was almost brought to a● end, for we were brought to an Allowance of an ounce per diem, w● therefore turned back and prayed the Fishermen to supply us for our Moneys; but they told us they had hardly enough to suffice themselves, which very much disheartened us, however they supplied us with Fish as much as we had need of to serve us over the Caspian Mere.  
On the 14 we set out and left the Wolga, which there leaves it sel● divided into several streams or Heads like the Nile (as before) making so many several Islands, which are low and full of Reeds, except only the Island Satyri Boggore, which is surrounded on every side with high Cliffs. Upon this Island we saw some Watch-houses which Stenko Radzin (even now remembered) had caused to be built, to view the approachment of his Enemies. However it was not intent his intent or design (in building of these Watch-houses) only to be forewarned of any danger, but to pray upon the Persian Merchant men, who were bound for Astrachan. From hence to the Circas-Mountains we often sounded and found it never more, or seldom less than 12 foot Water. All along the Coast we saw abundance of Wild-geese Pelicans and other Fowl which now and then we bestowed a little powder upon. The strand was all grown over with Reeds, which grow to an incredible height, and the Water there we found deeper than off at Sea, in somuch that it were very commodious, in a storm for any small vessel to shelter themselves, dropping anchor a little without, for the Reeds break of the Winds and the impetuous beat of the Water. In the afternoon towards the Evening it began to thunder and rain very hard, the Wind was very high at South and by East, and our Course lay South and by West. The Water all the time beat over the Gunhil, and two men forced to heave out with their Backlers, though hardly to any purpose, for notwithstanding all the pains they took the Shallop was still full, the Tempest continuing so till 5 in the next morning, at what time it began to grow very calm and moderate, yet not so but that we were driven with a fine fresh Gale. The Water here is fresh and potable, and affords all manner of Fish, that usually breed in fresh Rivers, Pike, Carp, Bream, etc. Besides Sturgeons, Seals and other creatures that will endure both.  
On the 15 we lost the sight of Land, and came about midday into the Bay Kieselarke, which is otherwise called the Golden Bay the sand whereof shines as fire, and is therefore by some called Kiselarsche Kolthoeh, which is no other than Golden Bay. My curiosity was often to taste the Water; sometimes I found it last of Sulphur, sometimes of Saltpetre, and sometimes of an odd bitter taste, whence I collected that this came from the property of the Ground and bottom. The River Kiselar is a Branch, or an Arm of the Bustro, rising about 8 Dutch Leagues above Terki, and runs parallel with the Wolga about 65 leagues, so disbanding its floods into the Caspian Sea. But now we were in a more desperate Condition than ever, partly for that our Shallop was so loaden that we were not a foot above Water, and on the other hand wanted bread, for we had not above 6 or 7 pound among all the Company. The Wind began to grow high and boisterous, and towards the Evening we had a very rough Sea, every billow rising Mountains high, insomuch that with continual pumping and laving we had much ado to keep the Shallop above Water, working some times 4 or 5 together, and by taking turns relieved those that were weary every hour with fresh men. The next morning we could see no land, but let all be left to the mercy of GOD.  
On the 16 we had a stiff gale, and sailed before the Wind, which furthered us so, that by noon we descried Land: and soon after got sight of a Dagestan-Tartar's Bark, which we made up to, but when we came near it, it was run upon a Bank, and deserted of the Men, which upon our approaching them, jumped over board. We perceiving that it was only for us that they left their Vessel; called out to them, and willed them freely to return and that we meant no harm; upon which they came back, and we prayed them to furnish us with some bread for our Money, but they told us that they had not enough for their own Voyage however they gave us 6 little Loaves, for which they would have no money, as also dried Pears and Plumbs which we thank fully received. This said Bark was laden with Bales of Silk and bound for Astrachan, which when we understood we gave them a Caution, and told them that we verily believed that by that time Astrachan was in hand of the Cosacks, and consequently we could not judge it safe for them to proceed on their Journey thither. They thanked us for our Advice, and directed their Course for Terky, that being also a good Market. We agreed among ourselves to follow the like course, with intent, at least, to supply our want of Provision, not knowing whether the Town was taken in by the Cosacks, or that it was still under the Emperor. About 9 in the Evening we anchored before the Town, and immediately upon our anchorage saw 10 or 12 Soldiers come rowing towards us, but when they came nigh saw that we were well armed, offered not to do any violent Act, but only asked us, Who we were? and, From whence we came? We answered, That we were Hollanders, belonging to his Majesty's great Ship at Astrachan, and were come thither to sound the Bay and Haven. Ho! Ho! said they, are you those men? You must come before the Lord Deputy: hereupon we made answer, That it was then too late, but the next Morning betimes we would wait upon his Excellency. With this answer they seemed to be satisfied but we thought it not safe for us to tarry there long, but before creek of day we loosed, and set our course S. and by W.  
Terky is situate in 43 degr. and 27 min. about an [English] league from the strand. It has been 3 times surveyed and laid out. 
A Description of Terky.  The first time by the Russes themselves; the second time by one Cornelius Claasz a Dutch Ingenieur, about the year 1636, who also strengthened the said Town with Walls and Bulwarks after the modern way of Fortification: and in the year 1670 it was surveyed and fortified anew by Colonel Baily, an English Gentleman, with huge strong Bulwarks, and and a wide and deep Mote, encompassing it quite round. The City is seated in a Champan Country without either Wood or Hill so far as one can view. The River is also called Terky by the Moscovians, but by the Inhabitants Timenky. The Banks lying upon the Sea are all grown over with Canes, and rough. Terky is a place of great Trust, being the Key or Barricado of the Czars' Dominions, for it lies on the Frontiers of the Russian Territories, and for that end has always a Garrison of 2000 Strelitzers.  
All the night it blew very hard, and in the morning we saw land on each side. The Island which lay on the Larboard side we called Meynders Island, because he was the first that discovered it. We steered directly through the Islands, and when we were about 20 leagues within the Bay, we discovered high land, which we afterward knew to be the famous Caucasus and Ararat, which also border and extend to the Circas Hills, and sailing a little further we found that we were near the Quicksands, so that we were fain to tack about, and bear up to the Channel, where coming we sounded and found it 2 fathom, and a good sandy ground. Being just got thorough the straits or narrow Channel, we looked about and discovered a great Bark making up toward us with all the Sail they could; which afterwards we understood was sent by order of the Governor of Terki, to pursue us, having 62 Soldiers, and all well armed aboard, with a charge from the Governor to give us no quarter, but to hack us in pieces, and to bring back the Shallop and Goods to Terky. We seeing them in a full pursuit thought it no time to dally, but laboured as hard as we could, till we got the Island Sierlan where we came to Anchor, and the Bark seemed to give over their chase.  
On the 18 ditto, betimes in the morning we set Sail, and endeavoured to gain the High land, which before the Evening came, on we did putting in at a River, and were assured that we were not within the Jurisdiction of the Czar, which is bounded by the Timenki.  

Bounds of the Circas Tartars. Their Persons,  The Circas Dominion begins at the Timenki, and is bounded from Nagaya by the Step; and from the Dagestan-Tartars by the River Bustro. The Country is very fertile, producing good store both of Fruit and Grain, and is also good Pasture-ground. The men are very corpulent and withal robust, have broad-faces but not square like the Calmucs, 
Complexions.  or Crims; they are of a swarthy yellow complexion, and shave their Heads and Beards after a strange manner: Cross over the head they make a bare stroke, and yet let a tuft grow in the Crown, and on each side it hangs down in two great bushes, which sometimes they let hang loose, and sometimes plate. They wear grey Felt-coats with a mantle of the same, 
and Habits.  which is rough without; this they hang slovenly about the neck made fast with a great button, that they can turn it which way they list, and make it serve for a Buckler against the Wind. They sometimes wear Bonnets, made of cloth, which they fold into a square figure, that they look like Jesuits Caps when they wear them. They are a surly illnatured people and blockish, not fit to converse with, but yet more friendly than the Calmucs. They seldom appear abroad without their Horses, upon which they seem as if they were planted. Their Arms are a kind of Musket, but the Longbow is with them more in use, which they can handle with great dexterity.   

CHAP. XVII. They Author and his Company err in their Course. They meet with a Cosac-Bark. A great Tempest. The Beginning and Limits of the Dagestan-Tartars; Their Posture or Frame of Body, Habit and Way of Living. They are great Plagiaries. The Barrenness of the Dagestan Mountains. Another great Tempest. The Shallop run astrand and is spied by the Tartars, who plunder them. The strange way of electing the Dagestan Kings. They are assailed by another Company who ravish the Woman in presence of her Husband, and convert them all to Slaves. The Author tortured to detect his Companions, which he manfully endures. They are brought before the Osmyn, and chained.  
ON the 19 ditto, we set sail and directed our course towards the Island Tzetzien, which we sailed passed, and had Tzierlan to the leeward; having very misty weather all the while, which dured 24 hours or more.  
The next morning it cleared up, and we got sight of the high Circas Mountains, which we aimed at, if possible to come nearer the shore, & so to coast it all along, after we had laboured and lay beating in the Wind about 3 or 4 hours we saw a long neck of Land, which we took for an Island, and endeavouring to sail through a narrow passage we found ourselves in a Quicksand, so that we were fain to tack about, having sailed the whole day in vain, and at the dawning of the day we came into the Channel which was a good sandy ground and fit for Anchorage. Here we met with a Bark having about 60 or 70 Men on board, who called to us and prayed us to help them afloat, pretending they were aground, and fast among the sands, which some of our Company would have done, but the major part were for the Negative, and so overswayed the rest that were willing; for we saw the Vessel jog too and again very lightly, that we easily suspected some bad design, as afterward it appeared, for when they saw us wind about, they made all the Sail they could and pursued us, till finding that we were very well armed they gave over their chase. The men aboard were Cosacks, and as we believed of Radzins' Folk.  
Finding that they left us we consulted which way to steer, and resolved to let drive before the Wind. We sounded and found 4 fathom, and came in a short time close by Zierlan, which we found to lie in 43 degr. 7 min. From hence we saw the famous Ararat, mounting his head far above the Caucasus, which was nearer us. The Land of the Island Zierlan is all covered with shells, which seem to be washed over, with high Floods and Inundations, whence I presume none will Inhabit it. About evening we put off, and after an hours failing sounded and found we had 6 fathom and a sandy ground. When night came we were surprised with a great Tempest, and the Sea rose mountains high, insomuch that we expected every moment to go to bottom, and so we were thrown to and again on the tops of the billows. In the morning it began to clear up and the Winds abated something, so that we made a little sail, and endeavoured to steer towards the Highlands on the Circas coast. After much labour in beating through the Waves, and danger of our lives we got that height. We sailed by a Tartarian City Seated near the Water between two Hills, and by the way met with a Moscovian Boes where the Men aboard had acquaintance with us, having lay with their Vessel aboard our Ship at Astrachan. The said Men invited us all to dinner, of Fresh Mutton and Rice, which they first parboiled, and afterward stewed with Butter, of which we made a hearty meal. After we had taken our leaves of them, we steered away by the Coast, and saw many pleasant Valleys and a fruitful Country. When the Evening came on, and we seeing it good weather resolved that night to take our rest, which we had not done for 3 nights together, and to that end dropped anchor.  
On the 20 we came within 15 Leagues of Derbent, 
The Dagestan-Tartars. Their Form, Habit and Way of living.  which is the land of the Dagestan Tartars, who are so called for that they inhabit the hilly Country, the word Dag in their tongue signifying a Mountain. That part of the Country which lies toward the Sea is dry and heathy, but within land very fruitful, as afterward to our sorrow we found it. The men are very robust and able of Body, of a deep swarthy complexion, and terrible to look at. Their Habit is much at one with the Circas-Tartars. Their shoes are only made of an Horses hide undressed and of one piece, drawn together above the foot with Thongs. Their Arms are only Bow Arrows and a Scimmatar, although some have also Spears and Lances: when they ride out, or go upon any expedition, they put themselves in Harnass, to wit, a Helmet and a Target. They are great Menstealers, not sticking if they find opportunity to sell their own Relations, or Children of their nearest Friends, which they bring to the Turks and Persians. They are very bold, and not easily daunted at any foreign Power, trusting to the steep craggy and Mountains which are to others inaccessible. They are Mahometans by profession, but sorry Zealots for their Religion. The Wome● feed and keep cattle, but their men go out a Robbing. These Mountains are very barren and sandy except where it is chalky.  
The next day we weighed anchor and came before the Tartaric town Boynak, which when we had just passed by, it began to blow very hard, from the Sea ward, we having then about 16 fathom Water In the mean time the Sea began to grow very rough and hollow that we were forced to run the Shallop immediately a strand for fear of overturning; being then but 5 leagues from Derbent, which was the nearest Land. Directly before the coast lay a long Rif or Bank and round about us was rocks, which we by the grace of GOD escaped, though very narrowly; for indeavoring to get ourselves afloat again we ran into a Circle of Rocks about 3 or 4 foot under Water, and had much labour to get clear. Having now wrought ourselves out we gave ourselves over to the mercy of Heaven, letting the Boat drive what way it would, till at last by a great Sea we were thrown upon the strand, without either loss of men or Goods, every man packing up what they thought fit to carry along with them. The Goods which belonged to Capt. Butler and Mr. Termund we buried in the Sand, thinking to send for them upon occasion by the Persians. But most unhappy proved this our landing here, for no sooner were we come ashore but we were espied by the Tartars, who came and delved up the Goods we had so hidden, and carried it away upon their Horses to a little Village hard by, and brought the news of such an accidental Booty to Aly Sultan, their Prince, who came on Horse back with a guard of Troopers to seek us. Although by day we hid ourselves in the Woods, and by night went forward on our Journey.  
Having remained one night in the Woods where we took our rest, Our Company consulted what was best to do, whether to march forward on our journey or to tarry; It was advised by the major part to go, but I was rather desirous to tarry 3 or 4 days longer, till the heat of the pursuit was over, that so thinking when the Tartars should have sought for us a while in vain, they would give us over for lost. However they were very forward to be going, and rejected my Council. In the mean while C. Brak slept with his wife and child at a little distance from us, and the rest of the Company would that we should leave them there, because that the Woman and Child were but a cumber to us. So soon as I understood their intent was to leave them so, I insisted on the contrary, with words to this effect. Pray Gentlemen remember yourselves; to what end should you do such an unworthy act, and leave those poor souls behind us who have neither Money nor means to subsist, and must in all apparency perish in a strange place? and than what guilt must we have upon our Consciences? But know this if you indeed resolve, to go and leav'em it is also my resolution to cry out and make our Fates equal. When they saw me so zealous and in a hot passion, they were contented to take them with us. I was the more concerned at it, for his Father's sake, who when we left our Native Country showed us all imaginable Friendship, and therefore endeared him the more to me. About half a day we marched with Muskets and other heavy Armour upon our shoulders, besides our baggage, along the sides of the Mountains, till at last we came into a Valley where we were espied by a Company of Troopers, being about 15 or 16. These made up towards us, and drove harder and harder, till coming near at hand, we began to consult about the point of Safety, yet could not come to an unanimous Resolution till it was too late: some were for Defence, others for yielding, which Advice was thought best, and approved on by the major part; for that we thought if the kind Heavens had given us the Field for that time, yet we were sure that some must lose their lives, and that they might in the mean time be seconded by another fresh Party, who when all was done would take the remainder and use us the more unkindly for our obstinacy. 
They surrender themselves,  We therefore upon their approachment freely surrendered ourselves into their hands and implored their Mercy after the best manner, and with all the signs we could. When they had got us into their Power, they drove us into the Jurisdiction of the Scemkals, for we were then within the Confines of the Osmin. When they had brought us within their own limits, they alighted from their horses and plundered us, yet not with that rigorous usage we feared, for having stripped us of our upper Garment they let us go, taking only what we had with us that was thought to be of any value. They took from me a Parcel of rich Silk, which I had bought of the Rebels at Astrachan, but my gold Chain which I had fastened in the inside of my Garter they did not find. When they had thus pillaged us, they directed us which way to go for our Safety.  
Dagestan is a Country subject to divers Princes and Lords who are independently Sovereign, but the most principal Provinces are Scemkal and Osmin, already mentioned: and of those two, the former is the more eminent, the Government whereof is not hereditary, 
A strange manner of electing a Prince.  but by lot, which is after this manner. The High Priest first appoints a day of Election, to which several of the Princes, or Myrses (as they term them) are assembled, these being set all in order round about him, he throws up a little Apple, but whether of Gold, or Gilded, I cannot be positiv: upon this they all grabble to catch it, and he that gets it is chosen for their Prince, although, he can favour any he has a mind to, by casting it that way. Which may also serve for an Emblem to represent Elections in other places, where Policy seems to be more refined.  

They are assailed and plundered a second time.  By that time we had traveled an hour, we were aware of another Troop of Horse; greater than the former, who fell suddenly upon us, stripped us to the shirts, and ravished the wife of my Countryman Brak, before our Eyes, and left her naked. My shirt and Drawers which were left me I gave to the Woman, on whom I had more compassion than on myself. 
They take their leaves of each other and depart.  Upon this deplorable accident we took our leaves of each other and departed, being naked and unfit to assist each other any more, going two or three in a company together. Else Pieterson and Mr. Tolk choosed to go with me, and by that time we had travailled 2 or 3 hours further we were set upon by another Company of Horse, 
The Author and two more taken and made Slaves.  belonging to the Osmin. These took us, tied our hands behind our back, made us fast to their Horse's Tails, and so to troth after them through Thistles and Thorns backwards, so that the Horse men driving on apace sometimes dragged us forward, for it was not possible that we should keep pace with them. After they had brought us a good way, they untied me and binding me fast to a Tree, shot me with their Arrows, which they had broken off and made stumped on purpose to urge me to discover the rest of our Company. But when they could not move me to detect them they continued shooting, that I often wished that they would have dispatched me, and rid me of that misery. The marks and pits remain still in my Body, as I have shown them to many hundreds since my arrival at home. These Torments I endured with incredible patience, not willing to detect my Countrymen, Torments, I say, that none without experience could be able to imagine how great. When they insisted hard that I should tell them which way they went, I told them that they went toward the Hilly Country, although I was certain on the contrary for they had determined to go along the River, that they might have their shelter in the Woods. After they had used us so inhumanly and out of hopes of getting any thing from us, they took me and Else Pletersz, tied us leg to leg with a small Iron Chain, and so brought us up to the Prince Osmin, often threatening that they would tear us limb from limb, sustaining that Opinion of us that we were of Stephen Radzin's Company, and sent out as Emmissaries on his behalf, and therefore were resolved that his Insolences should be lay to our charge. When I understood that their Opinion and Intentions were such, I was in a great consternation, not that I was afraid of Death (for that was what I chiefly longed for, at that time) but that we were liable to such a bad Censure, and could not explain ourselves so well, as to satisfy them to the contrary: and besides all that to be kept alive and suffer so many Tortures as they threatened us, to detect what we were utterly ignorant of, and unable to satisfy them in.  
When we came to the Prince's Palace, they led us thro' the Guards that stood on each side with naked Scimmatars in their hands; these we expected to be our Executioners, to hew us in pieces, although afterwards we understood it was the manner there, when captives are brought before the Prince. So soon as my Companion saw this woeful sight he turned his head about, and stared upon me with a very frightful look, which I believe was the first time, and the occasion of a Frenzy, which he has been often since possessed with, and I believe (if he be alive) continues with him till this day. Being come before the Prince we threw ourselves down at his feet; he thereupon asked us, Whence we came, and to what end we were come thither? We answered, Dutch, and fled from Astrachan, to avoid the Cosacks, who upon our departure were about to lay siege to that City, and now come to implore your Highness' gracious Protection. All this I hear very well (quoth the Prince) but I am certain that you are yourselves Cosacs', and of that Rout which not long ago depopulated my Country and made Havoc of my Subjects, and now the Villain, your Master having taken in Astrachan has sent you as Spies and Explorators to visit my Towns. Our reply was, Sir, we know nothing of the Designs of the Cosacs', but served as Mariners in a Ship, which some of our Countrymen have built for the Emperor of Moscovia. When the Prince heard that, he was some what appeased, hearing us with more attention, and that we might the better be understood, he called for some Russian Slaves, who assured him that we were no Cosaks but real Dutch, for that we had nothing of the Cosac-Dialect. Upon this the Prince turned about, and told us our Life was granted us. This news was very welcome to us, but had been more welcome if we had with one been set at liberty for we were chained severally and sent away to Mahemet Sultan, the Prince's Son, whose Residing place was near mount Ararath.   

CHAP. XVIII. The Captives take their leavs of each other. The great Orchard near Tzurbag. Their Arrival at Urwan. Situation of Mount Ararat. An accidental meeting with some Carmelito Friars. The Author insisted upon to undertake a Cure of a Rupture, which with much persuasion, he promises to do. His ascent up the Mountain Ararat, to the Hermit's Cell who was his Patient, which he performs in 5 days time. He undertakes and Cures the Rupture. The Copy of an Attestation given him by the said Hermit in barbarous Latin. His return down.  
ON the 21 dito, my Companion and I took our leaves of each other, but not without great sadness, for so soon as we were brought out, and understood that we were to go two several ways, I observed Tears run down his cheeks, which also moved me to weep, for that we were out of hopes ever to see one another's face again in this World, neither that our Wives or Friends should ever hear from us or that we ever were like to be redeemed by our Friends or Country men being in a remote Land. Having thus taken our last Farewell of each other, I was set upon a Mule, and committed to the Charge of some Slaves and Renegadoes, who were to bring me to the Court of Prince Mahomet, being about 3 [Dutch] miles from Urwan.  
About Evening we came to a Village called Tzurbag seated upon a high Mountain, where we took up our lodging for that night. While we stayed here there came abundance of Women to see me, who wondered that I wore such long hair, for the Inhabitants of these Countries (being Mahometans) always shave their Heads bare.  
On the 22 betimes in the morning we set forward, and went through a great Grove of Fruit-trees, where we saw abundance of wild Swine masting of the shaken Fruit. These Fruit trees do not grow naturally of themselves here, for they have an Ordinance among them in that Country, That none, of whether Sex it be, shall marry, till they can prove that they have planted a Hundred Trees with their own Hands, so that they begin when they are Children to plant; which having been observed for some Ages, is the reason that this Wood is grown so wide. There are divers sorts of Fruits, as Apples, Pears, Cherries, Figgs, Almonds, walnuts and others, and that in such abundance that the hundreth part is not consumed or used, for none are prohibited to pluck and carry away. There is also very fair Meadow and Arable Ground, the Fields full of Corn, affoarding many delicate and rich Plants, both for Kitchen use, and Medicinal. cattle is there both good and plentiful, far surpassing ours in Europe for fatness, especially Kine & Sheep; Goats and Swine, both wild and tame, run together in innumerable Flocks, but incredible is the Plenty of Hens and Pigeons which are brought in and sold for trifles.  
On the 30th we arrived at Urwan, or Ervan, a City situated under Mount Ararat, in the Country of the Medes, about 65 Leagues from the Caspian Sea. The Town is not very wide, but sufficiently munited with strong walls of stone, being about the greatness of Alcmaar in North-Holland. There are in it some Persian Mosques, and Churches, as also a Cloister of Carmelite Friars. They use no kind of Commerce, or Merchandise, save that of Slaves, which the Dagestan Tartars come to buy there, and are there so cheap that a lusty well-bodied youngman is ordinarily sold for ten Crowns, as some of our Company were sold for the same price. The City Urwan is mostly inhabited by the poorer sort of Armenians; but Mount Ararat, by those of the Romish Faith, and other Christians.  
Mount Ararat is seated just in the parting of Armenia from Media, and is reckoned under the rank of the Dagestan and Caspian Mountains. The Armenians call it Messina, and the Persians Agri: It is much higher than either Caucasus, or the famous Taurus, or any other Mountain in all Media, Armenia or Persia, so far as one can view. It is a blue, and dark-coloured Rock. I have found there a kind of a dark yellow Mineral, very ponderous, and sparkling; but could never learn what metal it would have produced if melted, nor that of a sparkling Sand and Dust, which I also found here, although I brought a proof of each, which I lost, when we were taken at Sea by the English and plundered, as hereafter shall be said at large. This Mountain is for the most part barren, and without Earth, and what may be further said by way of Description, the Reader will find in the Relation of my Ascent towards the Top of it.  
Going into the Hermit's Cell, I took a view of the Rupture, which I saw was shut forth about the bulk of a henns-egg; and with one asked him, How long he had had it? he answered, A Month: which gave me good encouragement, since I was sure that the Fissure was fresh, and therefore the Cure with greater facility to be effected.  
Thus I undertook the work, and taking 200 fresh Hen-eggs I boiled them hard, and made thereof an Unguent. I made also a Truss, and anointed him 4 times a day with the Ointment causing him to lie still for a fortnight together, which done I let him rise up to see how he was, and found that it was sufficiently bettered: for the Rupture which he with his own hands had endeavoured to stop, by thrusting it in, and as often broke out, was now stayed, and he told me that he could every day perceiv that it grew better. I gave him advice to keep himself a whole year in the Truss, and continue anointing himself after the manner I did myself, which he also promised to observ. When I took my leave of him, he gave me a piece of hard wood, of a dark-red colour, with a Cross, and a silver Chain which he wore about his neck, as also a Stone, which he told me he had taken from under the Ark; These Relics he adjured me to be very careful of, saying the real value and esteem thereof would be such, that if ever I came to Rome, and bestowed them on St. Peter's Church that they would reward me with a Gift which should serve me for a maintenance so long as I lived. The Wood and the Cross I brought with me, but the stone, with some sparkling Oar were taken from me when the English took our Ship. The Hermit was born at Rome, and of very good Parentage, his Father being one of the most eminent Citizens there, who upon his Deathbed charged his Son, To retire himself from the Society of Men and betake himself to the Mountain Ararat, there to spend his days in a Heremitical Life. The Son in obedience to this his Father's Will, took upon him this Journey and manner of Life, where he had then been 25 years, living there in great Tranquillity and with more contentment than he could do in the World of Rome. Besides those Relics already mentioned he gave me a Testimonial in Writing, to evidence to the Curious my being there, which [after a Monkish Elegancy] runs thus:  

The Heremites' Attestation given to J. Struys.  POstquam non potui intermittere ad petitionem Johannis Jansonii, precabatur, ut Testimonium ipsi darem scriptum, quod super-nominatus Joannes Jansonius fuerit apud me in monte Sancto Ararath, circiter triginta quinque miliarium sursum eundo; ubi praenominatus Joannes me sanavit ab una magna ruptura; propterea ipsi maximas gratias ago, propter magnam diligentiam suam quam mihi praestitit: & ipsi pro hâc benevolentia donavi unam Crucem quod fuit frustum ligni de vera Archa No, ubi in persona intus fui, & illud de quo ista crux est facta, propriis meis manibus ab una camera scidi. Ubi ego Joanni Janson. perfectius veritatem narravi quommodo illa Archa est facta: Super hoc ipsi lapidem etiam dedi, quem ipsemet manibus meis decerp● si infra Archam, ubi Archa quiescit. Hoc omne fateor esse verum, tam verum, quam vere ego in ista mea sancta eremitica habitatione de facto vivo.  
Datum in monte Ararat, die 22 julii 1670. DOMINICUS ALEXANDER, Romanus.  
True it is the Autograph is but barbarous stuff, void of the true Latin Idiotisms, yet we thought good to give it you as it is, rather than to put it in a style more proper, or give it a better elegancy. It may be thus verbally paraphrased:  
Inasmuch as john johnson [Struys] desired me, I could not refuse to give him a Testimonial, how that he the said l. l. was with me upon the Holy mount Ararat, about 35 miles high, where the said john cured me of a grievous Rupture, and acknowledge myself greatly obliged to him, for his Care and Diligence in the same. And further to manifest my thankfulness towards him, I have given him a Cross, being of the wood of the ●eal Ark of Noah, which I have cut out of a Chamber of the the said Ark with my own hands, having been there personally myself: as I have verbally demonstrated to the said john I. after what manner the said Ark is made. Besides this I have given him a Stone, which with my own hand I have pulled from under the Ark, being a part of the Rock, whereon it is supported. All this I testify to be true, and so true as I live in this my holy Hermitage.  
Dated at mount Ararat July 22 1670 DOMINICUS ALEXANDER, Roman.  
The same day I took my leave of the Eremite, and set forward on my Journey to Urwan in the Valley, accompanied as before in my going up with an Ass and his Driver: 
He takes his leave of the Eremite.  but the way I found more uneasy to travail in coming down, especially when we came in the cold clouds, where it was so slippery that I expected every moment to tumble headlong down. Coming still lower we found it worse, for it reigned hard, which with the unevenness of the Rocks made our way very dangerous. At last after much labour I got down, and can well assure the Reader that their Opinion is not true, who suppose this Mount to be innaccessible.   

CHAP. XIX. The Author put in Chains again: He is insisted upon to renounce the Christian Faith and become Mahometan; Divers means to that end put in practice by way of Trial. The great gain of warm Baths. The Author taken out of Chains. He is sold to a Persian. The Situation of the Caspian Sea. Great Whirlpools in the Bay of Gilan. A discourse about the Silk-trade. A further Description of the Caspian Sea, etc.  
SO soon as I was arrived at Urwan and entered the House of my Patron Mehemet, he gave order to secure me with 2 Chains, for he feared that I would make my escape, by running into the Turkish Jurisdiction. One of these Chains was light and tolerable, but the other very massy and ponderous, insomuch that to bear the Chain alone, might seem to be Slavery enough. This Condition brought me into a deep Melancholy, even to death, not only that I should become a Slave, but that my Patron's Incredulity should be the occasion of such Affliction to me, as also that he should so much violate his Word, when having promised to let me go free again, on condition he received that money upon my effecting the Cure, which the Eremite caused to be honestly paid; for had I not trusted to that his promise, I should have prevailed with the Eremite so far as to purchase my liberty, since the Slave-market is there very low. Besides all this he continually wrought upon me to renounce Christianity, with many fair Promises, as, that if I would be Circumcised he would give me, two of the fairest Damosels in the Country for Wives; but this his proffer I refused without making much study in framing of an Answer, desiring him rather to severe my head from my body, than to urge me to what my Conscience would not dispense with: yet not satisfied with this Reply, he persisted on, and told me that he would give me so many Acres of Ground, besides Orchards and Slaves: yet all he could imagine to persuade me to embrace the Turkish Faith, would not move me so much as to give him the lest hopes: insomuch that for that time he broke off without giving me any sharp Language. Shortly after he sent 2 fair Girls, who at first entrance saluted me very friendly, and beginning with a trifling discourse, they proceeded on to more serious matters, and consequently proffered themselves to me as Wives, making use of a Russian Slave to be their Interpreter: and to make their request prove the more effectual, they began to stroke me, and play a hundred wanton tricks to allure me, which when I perceived, prayed them to desist and not to trouble me any longer, for it was against my Conscience to violate the Laws of Christianity, which forbid Polygamy, having already a Wife by whom I had two Children, and although I were in the most remote parts of the World, I should not alienate my Love and Troth, by marrying of another so long as she was alive. To this they made answer, That I should never see either my own Country or Relations again, and that many thousands would be glad of what was proffered me, and therefore willed me to accept of it, lest I should afterwards repent when it could not be revoked, etc. After they had used a few such like Arguments they left me. Hardly were they got out but my Patron came in, who fell to work again with greater, and more specious promises than before, as. That if I would become a Musulman [or True Believer] he would advance me to the Dignity of a Commander in the Guards. This perplexed me very much when I saw him so earnest, thinking that if he could not get his will by fair means, he would proceed to rigour, and being absolute Lord and Sovereign, as well of the Country, as of my Person, would force me to embrace the Mahometan Religion, however I had already stood out so much Torture, that being a little hardened to it I feared it so much the less: but gave him a short Answer; to this Effect, Sir, All the fair promises you have already, and that you may hereafter make shall not have that efficacy with me, as to make me renounce my Faith, for I had rather dispatch myself, than to embrace Mahometanism. He hearing me say so did not for that time press me much more.  
On the 9 th'. dito I continued still in Chains, at what time the young Damosels that had been with me before, were sent again, who, as they did the last time, endeavoured to persuade me to turn Mahometan; neither did they desist to use all manner of Allurements they could devise, to entice me to lie with them, for so they thought that if I had done that, I must either become Turk, or die a miserable Death; They further did what they could to put me in mind of my present misery, and told me that I must never expect to enjoy any better than what I saw before my eyes; and in the conclusion of all, told me that they wondered at the Folly and Vanity of the Christians who were so strictly tied to Monogamy, or only to marry one Wife, when as the Mahometans might have as many as they listed, or thought themselves capable to maintain.  
My Master although he was a Prince yet thought it no dishonour to trade in Commerce: but the chief thing he had which brought him up the most Revenues, were the Baths which he kept; having some almost in every City, as well in his own Jurisdiction as in Persia and other Countries, whereof those were the most considerable, at Derbent, at Scamachy, and at Ispahan, which brought him in a vast sum of Money yearly.  
The reason why the Baths are there in such esteem, and so much frequented by persons of all Ranks and Degrees, is not only their affected Cleanliness, in which they surpass all others: but as well thro' Superstition: for that after the use of their Wives, they are to bathe, being till then reputed unclean, and may not enter the Mosques: and this both sexes are enjoined to upon such Cases by the Alcoran. A man among them may not lie with his wife from Conception to her Delivery: which is probably instituted as a Precept in the Koran to make those Countries more populous; for so one Man is capable of generating many Children in one year. The Baths are frequented from Break of day to the Setting of the Sun. From morning till noon the Men bath, and from noon till night the Women, so taking it by Turns.  
On the 10 th'. came my Patron to visit me and asked me how I did, and if I had taken good Courage: I answered him that I had no great occasion to thank him for my Welfare, since he did all he could to make me miserable, and contrary to that Honesty and Truth, which the Turks boasted of, he had shown me an odd example: Withal telling him that he had little reason to chain me so fast, and make my Slavery the greater when as he had promised me my Freedom, upon the receipt of the Money which was paid him. Upon this he seemed to be a little moved to compassion and commanded that the greater Chain should be taken off: Now when I observed that my reasoning had a little prevalency with him I pursued on in my Argument, with these, or the like Words, Sir, Is it not sufficient that I am your Slave? why then must I be kept in Chains, when as others have their liberty? If it be so that you fear I should go from you, Know this, That you can not keep me longer than I list: for I can at once part with my Life and take leave of this miserable Bondage, which if you persist to use me so inhumanly I am resolved to do. This I could perceiv wrought in him no small change, for he was naturally very covetous, and would have lost the price of a Slave. Besides that, it is a Maxim of their Law, that if any person do any way murder himself, the House is to be accursed and pulled down to the Ground. My Patron considering what the Issue of this might be, although I had not the least thoughts to lay violent hands upon myself. he therefore to prevent the worst sold me to one Hadsy Mahomet Sala, 
Mr I. Struys sold to a Persian.  a Persian for 25 Abbas, that was about 30 Shillings sterl. which is but a small sum in comparison to the ordinary Market price of Algiers, and other places in Barbary. My new Patron spoke the Russian Tongue very well, by which means we came to understand one another the better: for he used me more kindly than the other, and would often bid me have courage, saying, he would go with me to Ispahan where there were many English, Dutch and other Europeans, and probably those that would buy me off his hands, and so set me at Liberty again, which gave me no small encouragement to do my utmost to please him.  
On the 12 dito, I went with my new Master to Derbent, and sailed with him several times over the Caspian Sea: his principal dealing being in Crap, which with several other Roots used in Dying, grow there in great abundance. He had also a small Bark of his own, wherein he transported his own Commodities: This said Vessel always lay in a Bay about half a League from the City, and thither his Slaves always brought the Wares; for about Derbent it is very rocky and unsafe for Vessels to lie at Anchor, in case of Storm or tempestuous Wether. But in the said Bay is very good anchorage, at 6, 7 and 8 Fathom Water, and a clay ground with Shells. The Coast from Baynak to Masanderan is altogether sandy, and here and there low land, where appear the Tops of the Dagestan Hills: between those two Coasts it is all a long very good anchorage, there being many fair Roads able to receive Ships of a greater burden than are usually built for this Sea; there are also many fair Towns, built for the most part at the mouths of Rivers, and have many Vessels and Shipping belonging to them, as well for Traffic and Transportation of Merchandizes, as for the Fishing trade: for this Sea is very plentiful of Fish, and brings up the King of Persia an incredible sum of Money yearly, receiving from some as Toll, and from others as Contribution. In the Bay of Gilan are 2 great Whirlpools, 
Great Whirlpools- in the Bay of Gilan.  for which the Persians are very fearful in sailing from their own Coasts to Gilan. The Water in these Whirpools is hurried about with an incredible violence and makes such a noise, that if the Wether be still, they may be heard at 5 or 6 leagues distant. It is my opinion that these are the Passages whereby this great Lake has a subterranean communication with the Euxin, or some other Sea, for it is well known that it receivs 84 huge Rivers, besides the Wolga, which is reputed the 3d d River of the World for greatness, and hither do all the Floods of the Persian and Tartarian Rivers hasten, as it were to their Centre, with an admirable celerity, so that when we sailed we always made a calculation how far we would be carried off in thwarting the stream, and so bore up towards the Coast, as well for shortening our Course, as to avoid the Whirpools, where if any Vessel be brought she must inevitably perish. The best and most commodious Shipping for this Sea, is a Flatbottom, from 80 to a hundred Tuns.  
Upon a time it happened that my Master and I fell into a discourse about Trading and Commerce, making a parallel between their way of merchandizing and ours, where among other Words, I told him That If I were once again at Liberty, I could make a good Advantage, and did not doubt but that in a short time I should return with a Ship full of Holland's Commodities: upon which he asked me, If I was so rich then? I answered No; But if I came safe into my own country some or other would intrust me with a Cargo for those parts, being now well acquainted with the Conveniency of the Caspian Sea. My Patron hearing, that thought that I might probably be some way instrumental to do him service and that night discoursed some Armenians about me who dealt in Silk: upon which they desired to see me. My Master having appointed them a day, I went along with him, where one of the most eminent asked me if I could speak Italian, and if I was of Amsterdam, or if I knew such a Merchant there? I answered him in Italian, That I was of Amsterdam, but did not know the Gentleman he named, yet was acquainted with several there who dealt in Silk. He then entered into a discourse which was much after this manner: That the only way to Trade with Holland, was to bring over, Led, Quicksilver, Cloth, Serges, Sesse and all kinds of Low-country Commodities and Manufactures, which would be very marketable at Derbent, Scamachy and Ardobil and might produce good profit, so that all the Staple of Silk might be brought to Holland. and, That all Goods whatever might be more conveniently transported over the Caspian Sea, and so up the Wolga, bringing it down to Archangel, and so for Holland: which would not prove so tedious by far, as to bring it over Land to Smyrna, where by the way so much Danger and so many Duties were met withal; and then from Smyrna to run the Hazard of the Barbary Corsairs thro' the Mediterranean and the Spanish Sea: besides unreasonable Duties that are imposed by the Turks, which probably the Czar of Moscovia would not set so high, to draw a Traffic of such importance thro' his Jurisdiction, etc. That Gilan, Scirwan and other adjacent Provinces bordering upon the Caspian Sea, could deliver upwards of 50000 Bales of Silk every year. Bocharen also affords precious Furs and the East Country good plenty of Segrine-Leather, Saffron, Rhubarb and other precious Drugs. This was the sum of all the Discourse we had for that time, but not much hopes were then given me of gaining my Freedom, by assisting them in a Trade to Europe.  

A further Description of the Caspian Sea.  The Caspian Sea may more properly be termed a Lake, were it not that its Greatness and Saltness gave it the name of the latter, for it is environed on every side with the Main Continent, and receives 85 great Rivers (as has been said before) which nevertheless do not make it swell any higher upon extraordinary Rains and Tempest, which the more confirms what I have already mentioned about the two famous Whirlpools. What concerns the Breadth and Greatness of the Caspian Sea, as also its ' Situation, Bays, Rivers, Creeks, Islands, Towns and their distance of Bearing, they are sufficiently noted in the Card hereto annexed, which I have with great diligence composed, partly by my own experience and partly by the help of some Armenian Mariners, who were well acquainted herewith. It's length which is reckoned from Wolga to Astrabath, North and South is computed to be 129 Leagues, and from Tarku to the River Jemla which is accounted the Breadth, being East and West, is about 60 Leagues For 6, 7, 8 and 9 Leagues from the Coast, the Water is sometime fresh and sometime brakkish, and from 12 to 50 fathom Anchor ground, but the Sea is within fresh and out of sounding. It is also called the Hyrcan and the Salt Sea. It has many Boughts, Inlets, Creeks and Angles: the Bay of Gilan tends above 38 Leagues inwards, taking its beginning at the Cape of Scabaran and reaches to Sengar Hasam. This Sea is environed mostly on the East and North with a sandy and barren ground, having also many Quarries of Marble and Alabastre. On the East side of this Sea is a Noble River, not much inferior to the Wolga, which river parts the Calmuc-from the Gwin-Tartars but the Country on each side being inhabited with a wild People, using among themselves no kind of Traffic, and therefore unsafe for others to adventure themselves. My Master Mahomet Sala once sailing past the mouth of this River, I pressed him hard to sail up to view the Conveniency and take an account of the Quality of the Country. But he told me, he had a greater esteem for his Life, Ship and Goods, than to satisfy my curiosity about a business of so mean importance.  
This Sea affords great plenty of all kinds of Fish, and is farmed of the King of Persia from April to September, for a vast sum of Money and that for a certain Distance from the Coast which is set off with Stakes, within which bounds none are to fish upon pain of Death, but without every one has the permission to fish; yet without Fish is very rare except in some little Shoals here, and there, and those only at some Seasons, which are uncertain. After the Farm is expired it is also free within the Stakes for every one to fish. Here is an incredible plenty of Salmon, as also Carp, Bream, Sturgeon and other Fish, held with us in great esteem, and those in general both larger and fatter than those taken on the Coast of Holland, or any other Sea or Water in Europe that I know. Carp when come to their full growth are sometimes above 4 foot long, but those are not so delicate as when they are less: Here also many strange Fishes by us unknown, and I believe most of them proper only to this Sea. Amongst those strange kinds is one, which by reason of the disproportion of his Head with his Body our Countreyment at Astrachan call, Dickkop [Thickpate] But by the Persians, Nachay, that is, Devourer. This Fish is of a more than ordinary strength and sometimes will overturn a small Boat with a stroke of his Tail.   

CHAP. XX. A Description of Derbent: its Walls. The Sultan's Court. Very old Ruins. Divers Watchtowers. Multiplicity of Sepulchrets without Derbent. Their Slave-Market. The Author sold again. His Patron married with a Polish Woman and runs into Danger of his Life. The Intention of his Patroness in running away from her Husband and taking the Author with her. Two of Mr. Struys Companions come to Derbent. How they made their escape from the Tartars. The great Inclination of the Sultan of Derbent to the Hollanders. A Device put in practice to set one of the Author's Companions at Liberty The Prince takes the Wife of Brak for his own. Brak makes his escape.  
DErbent the first City under the Jurisdiction of the King of Persia on the Caspian Sea, 
Description of Derbent.  lies in 41 degr. 50 min. northerly Latitude. This City lies longwise East and West from the Sea side to the Land, and is according to computation about 2 [English] miles' long. One side thereof lies so near to the Sea that the Waves beat against the Walls, and in a Storm or tempestuous Wether the Surges rise over the Walls. This is also reckoned as a Barrier against the Irruption of the Tartars and other Savages, being the only place on all that Coast for many miles together, where they can come ashore, for the Shoar is there naturally secured with a steep Bank and wholly inaccessible. Wherefore this City is not improperly called Derbent, which in their Language imports as much as The Kingdom's Key, Der signifying a Key, and Bend a Kingdom, or Country: and so the City Gammeron on the Indian Coast is called Bender, which is the same Word with transposition of the Syllables, and a little variation of the Dialect.  
This Town is very strongly munited with a Stone-Wall, and as some say, was built by Alexander the Great, who had here his Residence for some time, althô there doth not any Building remain of his, save only the Wall on the South side, and the Fortress: but all the Fortifications on the North were built by the famous Nauschirwan, King of the Medes; having no other Foundation than a solid Rock. The Walls both on the North and the South side are so broad that Horses and Wagons may ride all along, and the Stones are of a hard rock, brought hither from a Hill not far distant from the Town, being all equally 6 foot Square. On the Wall of Alexander [for it still bears his name] is an oblong Stone having an ancient Inscription in old Syriac and Arabic Characters, which none now a days can read.  

Derbent how divided.  The City Derbent is divided into 3 parts, The uppermost Ward or Quarter, stands on a rising Ground and has a Fortress furnished with Brass-Cannon; and at that time when I was there and since the Uproar of the Cosacs' it has been Strengthened with a Garrison of 1000, or 1200 Soldiers, and in this Quarter is the Sultan's Court. The Middle Ward is inhabited by Persians, but the Buildings go mostly to decay. The Lowest Ward is about 2000 paces long, but this part is only tilled and used for Gardens; and as they say has been heretofore inhabited by Greeks, bearing still the name of Schaher junan or, City of the Greeks.  

Old Ruins about Derbent.  Above Derbent appear the Ruins of a Wall which reached from thence to the Necropont, or Euxin Sea: which has been a work of an incredible Charge and Labour. In some places the said Wall appears very plain, and is about four Foot thick. Round about this City are also divers stone Redoubts, whereof Four are furnished with Ammunition and a Garrison of Soldiers suitable to the Occasion of the Times. In the Country round about are also the Ruins of many strong Castles, insomuch that it plainly appears in what esteem this Place has been with the Median and Persian Monarches in times past. 
Walck Towers about Derbent.  Not far from this City are also some Watchtowers of Wood, which are raised exceeding high so that they can with ease descry the approachment of an Enemy in time of War. On that side of the Town which faces the Country are many Sepulchrets, or Tombs, some of an oblong form, and others semicircular, being in breadth about a man's length and hollowed, so that a Man may easily lie in them. In this great Sepulchre was in times past a famous Battle fought, between Cassan King of the Medes, and the Dagestan Tartars, where the former had a notable overthrow, with the loss of several Thousand men, and the principal Heros and Leaders were buried in those Tombs. Between this place and the Sea is also another Plate of Ground, environed with a high wall, wherein are 40 Tombs, under which are so many Persian and Median Princes interred and made sacred to Memory. Upon the Walls are several Flags pitched, and by each an old Man to beg an Alms of such as out of Devotion and a Religious Zeal come to visit this place, as it is throughout all Persia held very meritorious to visit the Sepulchers and Graves of the Deceased. This Superstition besides that of Bathing is all the Ceremonies and Rules which their Religion prescribes the Women, who receiv their Directions and are enjoined by their Parents and Husbands what to do, being secluded out of the Mosques.  
Within Derbent live no Christians but altogether Mahometans, except a few jews who boast themselves to be descended from the house of Benjamin: these commonly follow base and dishonourable Traffic, as buying of prize-good and Booty taken at Sea, which the Dagestan Tartars bring thither to market: 
Great market for Slaves.  The rest of the Inhabitants likewise trade in buying and selling of Slaves that being the main and almost only Merchandise they deal in, which they buy of the Dagestan Plagiaries and send all over Persia, making an incredible gain thereof. Those that are brought hither for Slaves are very unhappy, for they are no more looked upon than an unreasonable Animal or Bruit: and when they are about buying, they pull of their clothes and grope them all over as if it were a Swine or a Calf. Besides their low esteem they have for Slaves as to their Persons they are very unkind and void of Mercy, so that were it not for the Loss of so much money very few of those wretched caitiffs would die a natural Death; Those people being by nature very prone to Anger, and besides that too jealous to live upon Earth, thinking that if a Slave do but smile or cast a friendly look toward one of their Wives that something extraordinary must be in the case; althô I had never reason to complain of my Patron for any such thing: but one that lived in the neighbourhood was much addicted to that inquietude and restless humour. The bed where I lay was upon the Top of the house for coolness sake, and could very well see into my neighbour's Court, or Garden, where his Wives walked and played together being undressed. The man saw me several times and I him; but he not knowing how to prevent it, went and told my Master that I hurled Stones among his Wives, which was not true, for considering what circumstances I was under and sensible of the Condition of a Slave in those Places, it had been a Token of the greatest imprudence in the World to hazard myself so far as to offend such men who were both void of Reason and had my Life in their hands. My Master told him he did not believe that I would do any such thing, Well, replies the other, take your Slave away, or, I shall bring him down for you. Upon this my Patron warned me to take heed of looking down any more, not knowing what might come of it. I was very curious to know what course the Infidel would take in hand, to fetch me down, and accordingly went down to the old Place, where I saw several long Hand-guns ready leveled and cocked, laying out at the Window, which made me in all haste to turn about and out of the way, but was no sooner turned before I heard him fire, althô it did not the mischief he hoped and expected. The Inhabitants, as was said before, are in this place something currish-natured, but the Persians in general do not use their Slaves so unkindly, as the Turks, which I could well observe the time I was on the Galleys, nor yet so inhumanly as they do at Algiers, Tripoli, Tunis, Salee, and other maritime Towns in Barbary, according to the universal report given by those that fall into the hand of these cruel Men; for here when they do use them so hard, it is more to make them renounce their Faith and become Mahometans, than innate Cruelty. Most proud they are and lofty, boasting in their honourable descent and Pedigrees from their ancient Nobility, famous in History, and renowned from the Monarchy of the Medes. The Soldiery, which they call Kissil-basschen, are very unruly, and take the lest word that one can speak for an affront, yea, such is the awe they have gained of the People, that they dare not speak without great reverence; sure I am they have taught me silence, since they are accustomed to be the Interpreters of other men's Words, and are as apt to misconstrue what is said, whence consequently they fall to blows.  
On the 30 th'. of july my Patron brought me again to Market, 
The Author sold again.  where he sold me to one Hadzi Biram Ali, A very rich Merchant in Jewels. The same Hadzi Biram had 9 Wives, 5 at Derbent, and 4 at Scamachy. The Chief of these 9 was a Polish Gentlewoman by birth, and a Christian, but her Father was an Amsterdammer, by name john Flusius, who had a Command of Horse under Casimire K. of Poland, and married there a Gentlewoman of that Country by whom he had 4 Children. Upon a time, when these People lived in the Country, it happened that the Tartars made an irruption into Poland, and among many others carried away my said Patroness, being then a Damosel of 12 years old, and sold her for a Slave. She was a Gentlewoman of a very fair complexion, and a well proportioned Body at that time, for which reason alone (I suppose) my Patron bought her and made her his Wife, promoting her shortly after above the rest.  
It was my Master's custom to bathe himself once a day in the Sea, 
His Patron in danger of his Life.  which the Inhabitants of those Parts do account very wholesome, and his custom was always to take me with him to hold his Horse till he had done. It happened that one time he went a little farther in than was usual, and lighting accidentally in a Whirl-pool he was forcibly overturned and not able to recover himself. I seeing him then immerge made all the hast I could to get him out: and coming to the Place could not get a sight of him for it was as I supposed in a Quicksand: but at last, by accident I felt his head with my Foot, which I endeavoured to take hold of with my hand, and at last got him out, brought him to the Land and lay him over a Stone, till abundance of water came gushing out of his Mouth, but no appearance of Life was left in him, when I thought he was rid of the most part of the Water, I set him upon the Horse and got up myself behind him, in the mean while he continued bleeding at the Nose and Ears, and so weak that I had much ado to hold him upright upon the Horse After he came home he was put to bed, which he kept for 14 days together before he recovered his Strength. It was no small cause of Joy to me that things fell so well out, as that he lived to declare the true cause of this dismal accident: whereas if he had died, 't would certainly have cost me my Life, among those brutish, furious and unreasonable People, especially in consideration of of the Condition I was in, not only a Stranger both to their Religion and Manners as well as their Country and Persons, but likewise a Slave, for whose Death and Slaughter a man is no more accountable than for the slender Value and Market price; whilst on the contrary it fell out that I got the Credit of saving his Life, and his Benevolence ever after for an act of such merit, having run the jeopardy of my own Person. So much kindness he professed for me, that he promised to take me with him to Ispahan, where he said he would bestow me upon some of my own Nation.  
This Motion liked me exceeding well, but my chief Patroness who spoke very good Low-dutch advised me to the Contrary, saying, My Husband, your Lord, 'tis true goes for Ispahan, but from thence he intends to go on a Pilgrimage to Meccha, and bestow 200000 Gil. on the Sepulchre of Mahomet, for which Gift he and his Son Hadzy Can, will be canonised and registered among the Saints, for a perpetual memory of themselves and Honour of their Posterity, and now you are not sensible what Danger hangs over your head in regard of your Religion. This said; she told me if I would vow Silence she would impart me a Secret, which perhaps would be of more importance than that, and without doubt I should judge it more worthy of Acceptance. I promised her I would not detect her Council, be what it would; but for accepting it desired her not to enjoin me till I had heard and well considered of it. To this she replies. See if you can prevail with your Patron to excuse you on this Journey, or if you can counterfeit with Dexterity, feign yourself sick: To which if he gives his assent, we will trip off together, after he has been a few weeks upon his Journey, and being you are well acquainted with the Caspian Sea we, will take our Bark with us. I have means enough to Maintain us in any part of the World so long as we live, I have at present in my Custody a Casket of Jewels worth 300000 gilled at lest, besides a sum of 10000 Ducats in Gold. I prithee then let's not lose this opportunity but away with our own Bark; and I hope that we shall in 8 or 10 days be in Russia, from whence we can go forward to Holland, and if your wife be not alive we shall marry, if not I shall seek up my Relations at Amsterdam, supposing my Father's Brother may be still alive. To this I replied, Most gracious and worthy Madam, what you propose is very well, and what I could freely embrace and would willingly undertake to manage, But Madam, are you not sensible that Astrachan is at present under hands of the Cosacs', and the Caspian Sea full of Pirates, how then may we promise our selus a safe Arrival in Russia? Well, quoth she, Do you think that Astrachan will be still in tenure of the Rebels? no, without doubt, we shall speedily hear that the Czar will come down with a great Army and destroy that Vermin. &c, Hereupon she showed me an incredible Treasure of Diamonds, Emeralds, Rubies and other Precious Stones.  
These Proposals I must confess gave me work enough to study upon day night, and certainly had not Astrachan then been in the hand of the Cosacs' I had taken it upon me, not doubting, but to have good success, being able enough to pilot a Vessel from thence to the Wolga, for I was very well acquainted with the Coasts, but because of the before mentioned difficuly was fain to refuse her offer. I could observe that the Lady was some way disaffected to her husband, which I presumed was some certain Jealousy; for my Patron had bought not long before 2 Georgian Girls for Slaves, the one of 11, and the other of 12 years old, with whom he lay by Turns, which was no small trouble to his Wife, who was herself not above 26 years of Age, and therefore very unwilling to be a Widow with a living husband.  
On the 22 came two of our Ships-company to Derbent, to wit, Cornelius de Vries, the Gunner, and Peter Arentsz of Schevelingen. These had been taken in Boynak, near the Scemkal, and had betaken themselves to flight, being followed by some Tartars to the Gate of Derbent; where they were rescued by a Soldier, who spoke the Russian Tongue very well, which Soldier seeing them so hotly pursued, and the Tartars close at their heels, interposed himself between them, and asked ours, Who they were? who repled, They were Dutch, and had Letters for the Sultan. Whereupon the Soldier turning to the Tartars bade them see what they did, for that those men had Letters for the Sultan: and so they got free from the Tartars, but were suddenly carried before the Sultan, who so soon as they were admitted asked them, What Countrymen they were? They answered Hollanders. Then he asked for the Letters which he was informed they had for him, upon which they fell down upon their knees humbly begging Forgiveness, saying, That we have said, how that we had Letters for the Sultan, Great and Mighty Prince, we cannot deny, for most true it is; but that was only an Invention to secure and release our Persons from the Tartars, that pursued us to within the Persian Jurisdiction: Wherefore, Great Sir, vouchsafe to have Compassion upon us, for we are those very people that fled from Astrachan upon the approaching of the Cosacs', and have been unfortunately Stranded on the Dagestan Coast, where we were plundered, beat and made Slaves by the Inhabitants, and since continued in miserable Servitude under the Scemkal, and therefore have made bold to seek Protection under your Highness. They told him moreover how that they had been 3 days and 2 nights by the Way; Travelling only by night and hiding themselves by day, lest they should be detected, and retaken, as they had surely been at the Gate, if the Soldier had not shown them such a a Favour. The Sultan freely pardoned them and sent them to a House where he had ordered they should have abode and maintenance, till they were otherwise provided; for this Prince, has ever been favourable to our Nation. But these two fearing that their Living so would cost them too dear, and that one time or another they must pay for all, they removed into a Carwansera, for so they call an Inn or Tavern, where they took no care for Diet, being well supplied by the continual concourse of people that came thither, as well Indians as Persians. The Sultan also promised to write to the King about the Redemption of the rest of the Captiv Slaves, and as much as in him lay to further the same. Certain it is he did as kindly for our Country men as might be expected from him, when as the Brother of the Scemkal came to demand them as Fugitius, and he refused to let them go, for that they were now in Derbent, and that the King had understood how unkindly they had dealt with those that were his Allies, and with those with whom his Subjects had a great correspondence, as to matter of Commerce: Insomuch that Aly, the Tartar, returned without obtaining what he came for, and the Slaves they had still were for this reason more severely used than before, and kept with more strictness, since by that they were sensible, that if they could but make their escape to Derbent they were protected.  
So soon as I understood that P. Arents and De Vries were arrived at Derbent I prayed my Patron to let me go to visit them, which he granted. So soon as I came to them, I begun to inquire of their manner of Escaping, and of their present Condidition, which they related from the beginning to the end of all. My Patron was also curious to see them and came himself in person: Upon which I did bethink myself of a Stratagem to redeem my Companion Else Pietersz, who was still at Boynak. I told my Master then that I had still a Son in the Hands of Prince Osmin, and looking towards the Gunner I gave him a wink with the Eye, that he should assert it, which when my Patron asked him he did: he therefore sent to redeem him with intention to keep us both, but the Party sent, who was a Russian and a Renegado, brought us news that he was gone within Land, which sadly troubled me: For, had I got him to Derbent I could have brought him to Ispahan where there was more apparency and likelihood of obtaining Liberty than among the obscure Tartars.  
Meanwhile I went daily to visit the Gunner and Peter Arentsz, and once finding them very heartless and Melancholic I did all I could to comfort them. How, said I, can you be so sad being free, and I who am a Slave still keep a good heart? Be not so dejected, for the Persians will some time or other take you with their Caravans to Ispahan, and so you may get to Gameron, and thence be transported for the Indies, by which means you will be brought home, etc. They told me also that the rest of the Company were at liberty and without Chains, that they had also resolved to flee together, but judged themselves aswell unsafe at Derbent, which they had intended for their Asylum, saying, That they should come thither soon enough, when they should be sold at the Slave-Market; and certainly they were not much overburdened, for the greatest Task they had was only to hew wood for Fuel and other uses in the Prince's House: and if my companion and I had but had the same opportunity they had to be unchained we should not have dallied long about a Resolution, whether to stay or betake our selus to flight, for it was not above 12 [English [miles' from Derbent. We often contrived to break or file the Chain in sunder, but the Links were so massy that we durst not attempt lest we should not perform it at one time. They were also taken by the Dagestan-Tartars, which are reputed the more merciful, but we by the Calmucs, the one being under the Osmin and the other under the Scemkal. C. Brak was sold by the Scemkal for three years, after the expiration of which time his Patron was to have him again: His Wife whom the Prince had ravished, was also taken from him and made use by the said Prince for a Concubine, being attired in Princely Habit, and had much favour shown her. Brak therefore intending to make his escape, intimated his Design to his Wife; who would by no means assent to the matter, because of her Child, and told him further that if he did offer to go that she would detect the matter to the Prince. To this he replied, that inasmuch as she was taken from him they were never like to come together again, and that he probably for that reason should be carried farther within Land, where he should be out of all hopes of ever being redeemed; whereas on the contrary if ever he came to Derbent that there he should not only himself be free, but also seek a mean to get her redeemed, yet all this was but in vain, for she would not hear of it; insomuch that he was fain to run away without her knowledge; but what then became of him, and whether he was retaken by some others, or is dead, I could never yet be so happy as to know. As to his Flight, we were well assured, for his Patron sent to us at Derbent to inquire after him, but had a very unwelcome Answer: and the Sultan, to hearing that such a Person was come to seek for them, gave order to apprehend him, and so continued him Captiv till he proved that he only came to seek one that he had bought for ready Money, and was not of Intention to meddle with any body else; upon which the Sultan, ordered him enlargement.   

CHAP. XXI. The great difficulty of getting Wood without Derbent. The Author and his company assailed by Robbers two several times. The kind nature of his Patron. They travel to Scamachy. The Hill Barmach. The Pit of Naphtha. Arrival at Scamachy. A Description of that City. A great Earthquake at Scamachy. Abundance of men misfortunatly killed. The Author meets with 2 Franciscan Friars: A rehearsal of some part of their Discourse: their Zeal to get him out of the Service of a Mahometan. Advice given him by his Patron. He comes first into the Service of the Polish Ambassador.  
ON the 29 were sent out about 50 Slaves together with some other free persons to hew Wood in the Country, amongst which my Patron sent me also. We took our way over the Mountains, having with us two Carts, with 5 Oxen, 2 Asses and a Horse, we had also several Renegadoes with us. All the Company went into the Wood, and fell to work leaving me alone to look to the Carts and Provision. After they had been about 3 hours at work, I espied a Troop of about 300 Men coming towards us, and thinking by the hast they made towards us, that they were Robbers, I therefore called out to them in the Wood, to give them Notice that they might keep together. When I saw them come within Bow-shot of me I ran away as fast as I could drive, which they seeing me, sent a Shaft or two, but they did not hit me. Having entered the Wood I met our Company coming out who at first stoutly resisted, but finding that the Robbers fell on with a greater violence, and exceeded us both for Arms and Number of Men, they thought good to retreat with as much haste as they could. We left here 12 dead, amongst which was a Polish Renegado; besides these that were killed we had 20 wounded, and lost all our Baggage, with Carts, Oxen, Asses, etc. and were fain to return so home. For this reason is it very perilous to hew wood or to pass those mountains upon any other Occasion, being the Rendezvouz of the Banditti and Tartars, who notwithstanding all the Endeavours which the King doth, by sending of Troops down to expel them, cannot be driven out, for when they perceiv that any Forces are sent out against them, they run into Caves and holes in the Hills and Woods: They are also very well disciplined and as well armed, the greatest part thereof consisting in deserting Soldiers. And by reason those of Derbent must have all their Fuel and Timber from this Place, and the work put upon the Slaves, it happens that every year a great number of those miserable sort of men are either dispatched or wounded.  
The next day I was sent up into the Country to a place where my Patron kept his Cattle, which I was to look after and drive them up and down where I found the best Pasturage. 
The Author taken and carried away by Robbers.  When the Sun was gone down and I driving the Cattle to their House, I met 3 Robbers, who took three Cows away with them, and tied my hands behind my back, so drawing me along; yet it was not long before we met with 8 Gentlemen of Derbent, some whereof knew me, being frequently at my Master's house. These therefore released me and retook the Beasts, so that I came safe home: for which kindness my Master gave them a Present, I suppose, of more value than what I was sold for to him. Unspeakable was the kindness of my Patron that he had for me, for althô my Work was a little servile and Slavish, yet my Bed and Table was Lordly; and whatsoever I did whether well or ill, he always took it in good part, and would after that time, never suffer me to go abroad to do any work, saying, that he believed that I was born under some malevolent Planet. To be brief I found my daily Task so easy, and my usage so comfortable, that were it not for the name of a Slave and that to a Mahometan, I could not have lived better abroad in any Place of the World, having little or no care upon my head.  

Their journey to Scamachy.  About this time my Patron made preparation to take a Journey for Scamachy, there to repair his Houses which were thrown down with an Earthquake in the year 1667. On the first of September we were ready and set forward with a Caravan of 1800 Horses, and a great number of Camels, Dromedaries, Asses and other Beasts of Carriage, having in Company several Thousands of Men. The first day we passed over three Rivers, to wit Kurgani, Kostar, and Sambur; whereof the second is the greatest, running through the Mountains of Elbur. This River divides itself into 5 branches, or arms, broad but shallow, and runs over a stony Ground. The next day we travailed 8 [Dutch] miles' further and came to Koctep a large village, where we took our rest for that night. 
SEPT. 1670.  By the way we saw a goodly Tomb erected to the memory of a Persian Saint, The Inhabitants of this Town and the Country about it are called Padar in their Language. They are much addicted to stealth and Robbery, so that we were fain to keep a narrow watch over them the time we lay in the Town, which was not above 8 hours. Their Houses are but little, built square and covered on the Top with Earth, not exceeding 6 or 7 foot high above ground, but are as deep below, as they are high.  
On the 3 of the same month we set forward and travailed through many great villages, amongst which was a very fair one called Nisabath, or Naysabath, which I guess lies about 41 degr. and a quart. It is seated in a very pleasant Country of Old Media, now called Surwan, or Schirwan. This is the Place where some time agone the Holsteyn Ambassadors suffered Shipwreck. At night we set down at Muskar, being a Town without Walls, or any other Fortification but seems to have been in times past a place of trust, as well from its Situation, as the Ruins of the Walls and Bulwarks which yet appear. By the way we saw abundance of Robbers in the Woods, but they knowing us to be too strong would not adventure the Attempt.  
On the 4 we broke up, and that day came to Scabaran a little City, where the whitest and best Rice in all Persia is brought to market, and grows in the Country round about. It is also in such plenty that the Hundred weight is sold for 13 Ochbas, [being about 4 Shil. 2 Pence Sterl. or a halfpenny per Pound.] The Walls of this City are now demolished so that it is no more than an open village. The only Remarkable I found here was the Ruins of the Ovens, wherein they aver Alexander the Great had Bread baked for his Army.  
On the 5 th'. we came to the mountain Par— or Barmach, which lies close to the Sea, and is very famous for its many veins of 
* Which is also called Median Oil & Babilonish Bitumen, of the nature of Marle, which when once set on fire, will burn more vigorously if water be poured upon it, but is quenched with Earth, Dust, or any other thing that is dry. This oil is very good to preserv any metal from Rust; and as Ammianus saith, the Persians were went to anoint their shafts therewith.  Naphte. The word Barmach is an Appellativ word and betokens in their Language a Finger, so called from its similitude to a Finger pointing out. Above at Top it is very cold, and has snow on the North side all the year long: at top there grows some grass but not much, and that all hung with Iceicles. On this Hill appear the Ruins of some Watch-Towers, and below have been several Fortlets to check the Tartars, and secure the Medians from the Invasion of the Scythian Robbers. Amidst those Ruins, is a huge deep Pit digged and laid in with stone. Naphta, otherwise called Petroleum or 
* Perhaps from the Greek words 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Oil, & 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 a Rock.  Petrelaeum is an Oil coming naturally out of the veins of the Rock, which veins do run thro' the whole stones, as in Marble. There are 40 Pits digged as Receptacles to hold the said Oil, being conveyed thither by several Pipes, or Conduits; But there are three of those whence it naturally flows or springs, where you may see it bubble up like boiling pitch. Of this Oil there be two sorts; the one tending to a brown or black, which has a very strong smell, but the other which is white is of a lovely smell when fresh, and held in far more esteem than the other.  
On the 6 dito we set forward again, and went over very high Hills, coming at night to Bachal a village seated in a low but fruitful Valley. Here grows much Rice, and that very good, it being a marshy Ground, where that Grain likes best; Barley also grows there in good plenty. The Inhabitants have an excellent way of making Cakes, the main stuff thereof being Honey and Oil: whereof for the rareness and novelties sake my Master bought certain to use on our Journey.  
On the 7 dito we left Bachal, and after a good Days Journey came into Cothany, which is a very pleasant Place: and here we took up our Lodging. This Village lies in a low Valley which is full of Woods of Hasles and other small Trees, in which Woods are the greatest plenty of Hares that ever I have seen in all my Life.  
On the 8 dito we arrived at the famous Scamachy, called also Sumahi, and Samachy. It is a very famous Mart, and lies in 40 degr. 30 min. In the Province of Schirwan, or Media. It is handsomely seated in a Valley, so that one cannot see it till he be within Cannon Shot of the Town. The distance between Derbent and Scamachy is computed a Weeks Journey, excluding Sunday, to wit, following the Highway which is crooked and Winding, for by reason of Hills and Rivers they are fain to travel far about, or otherwise one might go it in 2 days: there is also another way which Passengers take when they go not with the Caravan; the Caravan would also go that way, but the Tolls about the Mountains of Lahatz are very great, and oftentimes long a clearing, so that they rather choose to go the other way. In former times this was a Town of some consideration as to matter of strength; but in the Wars of Abas, the Scach, or King of Persia against the Turks, it was by him dismantled and made an open village, which was ever by him a Maxim of Military Policy, by reason the Turks were wont to retire into fortified Places under pretext of Refuge, and after a few Months proving strong and numerous would surrender up the Town to their own Nation in time of War, or upon an Uproar: 
Scamachy described.  so that all the Walls toward the South were demolished and only those on the North-side left standing, which will not much avail upon such sudden Occasions.  
And now was none more happy than myself in imagination, not thinking otherwise than suddenly to have my Freedom. On the 1 of November I was sent for by the Ambassador, where being introduced into the Parlour, he speedily bade me sit down, and fell to ask many Questions about my Nation, and my coming to be a Slave. I told him all from the Beginning to the End. He then called for a Bowl of Wine, and bade me drink. Whilst I sat there, were two young Georgian Girls brought to the Door, who being stole by the Dagestan Tartars, of handsome Bodies, and tolerable Beauties as also the Ambassadors own Country Women he had compassion of them and bought them for the value of 100 Crowns. These he kept for Warming Pans, and would upon Occasion, when he made any Feast, cause them to dance: nor did they much seem to be concerned at the loss of those heavy burdens called Maidenheads, althô the Art is to know where they first got rid of'em.   

CHAP. XXII. The Hatred and Churlishness of the Ambassador against the Polish Gentry. A Polish Gentleman murdered in his bed. The pitiful case and condition of the Polanders, who were in the Retinue of the Legate. The Ambassador's Greediness. He endeavours to turn Mahometan, The Author's intention to make his escape. Captain Butler and others of his old acquaintance come to Scamachi, where they do what they can for the Captius. The Ambassadors Brother goes for Ispahan, where he desires to be admitted as a Mahometan; but is not received, William the Master's Mate of the Ship Eagle comes to Scamachi. A great Earthquake. Consecration of Water among the Armenian Christians. A great concourse of People, and remarkable Ceremonies.  
ON the 2 of November came the Sister of the Ambassador, and his Brother with a great Retinue and Pomp: their Reception was with an Extravagant Banquet, which dured several days. So long as this Junketting lasted, was such Gluttony, Drunkness and Prodigality, yea such beastliness shown, that I almost abhorred the name of a Christian, when on the other side I saw the Mahometans point at them, who are themselves very abstemious and temperate. Yet this only was to gratify the Georgians and Persians, for he demeaned himself very churlishly towards the Polish Gentry who were sent to grace his Person as a Retinue. Scarce were they ever admitted into his presence, and besides that pinched in their allowance as well in Diet as Habit, 
NOV. 1670.  and at last having spent the Money they brought with them out of Poland, were reduced to such poverty, that they went up and down like Beggars, being ashamed to come into honest Company? for besides their costly Attire which he always kept locked up, he would not allow them a sufficiency of Linen to keep them clean. If any offered to complain he threatened to sell them for Slaves, which tended to the great detriment of those his Domestics, and Dishonour of the King and Crown of Poland. This bred in the Polish Gentry such dissaffection that they resolved oftentimes to have revenge; but as those who know themselves conscious of such ill demeanour are ever in fear of their Persons, so he who knew himself guilty of such wicked doings, had always a certain number of his own Nation to secure and guard him. However they once finding opportunity, and being already come to the very Catastroph of Patience, began to hew him with their Scymiters and Axes, as he should go out of his Dining-Room, 
The Ambassador hacked almost to death.  where they chopped and mangled him so that he lay for dead upon the Floor, in the Portic, having received 17 grievous Wounds, and lost three Fingers of his Right hand: yet by the great diligence and skill of his Chirurgeon who was then at hand, he was restored to his former Health and Sanity. This outrage as it could not but engender bad blood, so it rendered the Ambassador much more despiteful than before, and that very night to be revenged, sent a Georgian Soldier to Paniegros, a Polish Gentleman, who was as Assistant in this Ambassage, and equally impowered to treat with the Ministers of State at the Persian Court, and therefore reckoned by the other as an obstruction in the Promotion of his Interest, as well as his being ready to represent the Occasion of these Tumults to the King, in such manner as might tend to his disadvantage: yet it ought to be understood of this Gentleman, that he neither gave encouragement, nor knew any thing of that extravagant Action. 
Panicgroes, ● Polish Gentleman murdered on his bed.  The Georgian having obtained entrance, ran to his Bedside and there most inhumanly murdered him whilst asleep. This Paniegroes was a Gentleman of a brave conduct, and withal of a meek temper, having purchased the Love even of those that seemed to be his Lot-enemies for his prudent and civil deportment, He had lived for some years together at Amsterdam, and spoke very good Nether-dutch. The rest of the Polish Nation, were taken and secured, some whereof were fast in Chains. Nor with this did the Ambassador hold up, but daily revenged himself of the Poles, 
The Prince of Scamachi makes peace.  which he used as Slaves; and the more to over awe them listed several Georgians-Soldiers to guard his Body. The Prince of Scamachy now sensible of the Differences and sad disorder of affairs, took upon himself the Office of a Mediator and adjusted the matter so well, that the imprisoned Parties were set again at liberty: yet were no better used than before as to their Sus-and Maintenance, whereas one Man might easily eat the Allowance he gave for 8. He on the Contrary continued a Junketting with those of his own Nation, that an Ox a day would not have been too much, if it were not for variety and change of Diet. He bought 13 Kine which he sent out into the Field, and set me to look after them, but finding myself at a loss for Victuals, I assumed the liberty to tell his Excellency that he must please to send me something to eat in the Field. His answer was: If you will have any thing, steal a cow from the Persians, and help yourself so. But that Commission I took occasion to let alone, being sensible that my master's Order would not excuse me. Thus I suffered more hunger than in all my life, and sore against my will intimated the matter to my former Patron Hadsi Biram, who gave me this reply, I told you of it beforehand, what a villain that Georgian is, That he was but a Christian in show, and far too base to be a Musulman. And certainly the Gentleman had good reason on his side: for this Ambassador well knowing what Beer was brewed for him at the Court in Warsaw, dispatches his Brother to the King at Ispahan, to supplicate that they might both be circumcised, pretending that now knowing better things than he had hitherto done, therefore could not have Peace or Rest in Conscience, but continual Horror and Inquietude, if he were not admitted as a member in Mahometanism. But they had such ample and clear Information at Court of his Life and Behaviour; that they easily perceived upon what account he did it, and consequently declined his Request. Shortly after he also received a Mandate from Ispahan to depart immediately for Poland, which was acceptable news for the Polish Gentry, hoping at once to be rid of that Slavery and Misery they suffered. After my old Patron had discoursed me a little about this affair, took his leave of me, saying, John, I am very sorry for your condition, prithee therefore come twice a day to my house and eat, or at what time you are hungry. I shall give my wife order, upon my Absence to give you Victuals. The sweetest music, I must confess, I heard in Persia; and certainly he who was a Mahometan, surpassed my Georgian Master far in Charity, who had rather feed Dogs he kept for his pleasure, than Christian-strangers, althô his own Domestics.  
'Tis true this Offer was very acceptable, but all my fear was, that Hadsi would not tarry long at Scamachy, so that I should again be at a loss, and therefore I determined with myself to run away; as than I met with an opportunity to go for Smyrna with a great Caravan, which was a preparing and almost ready to set forward. I had already bespoke myself to go with an Armenian who was to set forward 6 days before the general Departure with the great Caravan, but what reason I met with to the contrary shall be shortly told.  
Novemb. 4. I went out of the Town to see if I could speak with an Ambassador who was dispatched from Ispahan to Moscou, and to request of him to represent our Condition to the Czar, but I could not get to speech of him. He had with him 4 Tigers and Leopards for a present to the Great Duke.  
On the 11 to my great Astonishment and Joy I saw our Captain Butler, together with Cornelius the Gunner, J. van Termund, Christian Brand, Lewis Fabritius and Peter Arentsz coming into Scamachy; upon which in all hast I ran to bid them welcome and salute them, althô the Captain showed himself much displeased at us, for that we (as he alleged) went away without his leave and order, and not waiting for him: to which I replied, Captain you cannot forget what your Order was, That we should not stay so much as a quarter of an hour for any one, after the Gates were shut, but if any transgression of your Order must be imputed to us, it must be this that we stayed till midnight for you, and not hearing any thing of you, we concluded that you were either killed in the Tumult, or had made your escape some other way; we then not holding it safe for us to make any longer delay, thought it more prudence to put off than to stay till it was day light, etc. With these and other reasons I gave him he seemed to be satisfied, and promised to do all that lay in his power to procure our Redemption, as from that time forward he laboured very much to do. And this was the reason, that my intended Journey for Smyrna, was not undertaken thinking this to be a more hopeful and a more secure way to get free: for this happened just the same day I had purposed to set forward with the Armenian, and so after 2 or 3 days Journey to wait for the great Caravan. Our Captain applies himself to the Chan of Scamachy to intercede for the Captius, but all he could do might not avail, for there was no Audience lent him, It seemed as if the Sultan of Derbent had hardened his temper, for in presence of the Dutch and others that had taken the Mediation upon them; whereas on the contrary they had ever been good Friends with the Calmuc & Osmin, frequently sending and receiving mutual Presents from each other.  
When the Captain saw there was no hopes to procure our Redemption at Scamachy, he purposes to go for Ispahan, and address himself to the King; the more for that the Commissioners of the East India Company might assist him. He therefore took up several Abas of an Armenian, for which he must have paid 25 per Cent more at Ispahan: he left I. van Termund at Scamachy for security.  
On the 18 Christian Brand by the intercession of I. van Termund, was taken to board in the Polish Ambassadors House, giving good security for the same at Scamachy.  
Mean while the Brother of the said Ambassador went a second time to Court, for to get the consent of the Scach in changing of his Religion, but the result was as unwelcome to him as the former, with an express order to depart immediately for Poland, and to give a reason of his delay. This news as it was very unacceptable to him, for that he was sensible how affairs would be represented at Warsaw, there being a Courier dispatched off from the Scach to the K. of Poland; so was it also very welcome and acceptable news for the oppressed Gentlemen in his Retinue. Nor did this outwardly appear at the Persian Court, for upon such occasions they never acquaint any Foreign Minister with any dislike, but intimate it by their own at the Court from whence they are sent in such Quality, whence they expect Satisfaction. This when Bochdan understood he studied all means to avoid going back to Warsaw, and asked me if I thought that the East India Company, or their Directors there, would consent to let him embark there for Holland? My reply was that I did not believe it would be granted, and told him several Praecedents for it, as also the improbability of the thing since their Interest was so great in Commerce with Persia; as that they would not do any thing to quit it: However if he would go clandestinly and occasion a Rumour as if he were gone for Moscou, or some where in Tartary, he might embark himself as a private Person. This I said in hopes to come that way home myself. Yet he was various in his Intentions, sometimes taking a resolution to go for Smyrna, and sometimes for Constantinople, or elsewhere. However during the time he was at Scamachy, he Lorded it so bravely, that the Chan durst not check him in any extravagancy he committed: for it seems that the said Chan had taken up a considerable Sum of the Ambassador upon Interest and not being able to pay was fain to rest contented. But the Ambassador willing to get in his Money and the Chan not in a Capacity to pay it upon demand, the Ambassador sent his Brother to Ispahan to make complaint to the Schach, which when the Chan had understood, sent a Post after him, who entreated him to return back, upon promise of Payment, and full Solution both of Stock and Interest.  
On the 21 came a Persian to Scamachy with William Barentsz Klopper our Chief-Mate, who had been taken by the Tartars and severely used all the time. The said Persian offered him to the Polish Ambassador who on the 30 th'. bought him. The Scemkal had first sold him to a Persian of Bachu for 150 Abas. This new Patron set him to keep Cattle, in a Pasture, between Derbent and Scamachy, where upon our Journey to Scamachy I saw, but knew him not. He had a very churlish fellow to his Patron, and therefore attempting several times to run away was still caught again, and beat most severely: and now being redeemed came unexpectedly out of the Frying Pan into the Fire.  
Upon the first day of January 1671, on which day we usually in our own Country wish one another Happiness: we were aware of a mighty and most dreadful Earthquake, which had in a moment laid some hundreds of Houses in Rubbish; most terrible was it to see so many Souls swallowed up in the Earth alive and as lamentable to see some crushed to pieces and others half dead, some so fast closed up between Walls that they could not be got out. And others wanting their Legs; Arms and other Members, nor was there any but sustained some loss one way or other. When it ceased every one hoped that all was done, but the next day at night the Earth began again to tremble and shake, insomuch that all was in a consternation, but none sustained any considerable loss that I could hear of.  

Ceremonies used by the Christians in Consecration of Water.  Upon the 6 dito, it froze very hard insomuch that the River was to. Upon this were the Ceremonies of the Consecration of Water solemnised by the Armenian Christians, in presence of the Chan, his Son, our Ambassador, the Poslanick, or an Armenian Courier, who was dispatched for Moscou, and then at Scamachy, all the Persian Nobility and Armenian Christians from all Villages round about, and from afar in the Country, who came with Crosses, Flags and Bells, singing Hymns all the way till they came over the Puley Ambery (a Bridge so called) where they sat down. On the morning very early the Bishop came out with great Pomp and sung Mass, after which an Oration was made suiting the Day, being Epiphany, which he performed with great Zeal and Pains. After that was a Feast which they call Chalse Schuran, or Dipping of the Cross.  
These Ceremonies were performed as follows: On each side the River were placed the Chans' Guards, and all the Soldiery, to prevent any Tumult or abuse of the Armenians, who pay dear enough for the same. After the Chan had taken his place in a Tent expressly provided for that Prince, and the Watch set in good order, the Bishop went to beg permission, before which obtained he dare not begin. So soon as the Token was given, some of the Armenians ran naked into the Water, and cut up the Ice with Bills; the Bishop all the while continues reading and the Common people sing. After this they begin to play upon Bells and Cymbals, than the Bishop stepping softly to the River side, pours in Oil and Water. Then he took a little Silver Cross, set with Diamonds and other precious Stones, which he dipped 3 times in the Water. This done he took a staff [or Crosier] and stretched it several ways over the River, pronouncing several Benedictions. Immediately upon this all the People ran together, and strove who should be first at the River to drink and wash their Faces. This was observantly done of all sorts of People, young and old, Men and Women. Last of all several youths unclothed themselves, jumped into the River and swum to and again, diving several times together, as if it had been in the midst of Summer. The Bishop departing homewards, was accompanied with several Damosels playing upon Instruments and singing all the way before him. 
JAN. 1671.  On the other part there were several Persian Whores and Prostitutes who came to seek their Game, singing and dancing after a very lascivious fashion. In short it concluded as the Orgia or Bacchanalia in the time of Gentilism, which were celebrated by the Thyades, or Priests of Bacchus, with the Persians, who made use of this season as a Fair, whither repaired many Jugglers, Pedlars, Stage-players, & other Vagabonds; but the Armenians, did not either in Eating or Drinking exceed the Limits of Moderation.   

CHAP. XXIII. The Ambassador's Sister goes to Tafflis, and with her the Polish Chirurgeon. The Corpse of an Indian burned with a Christian she-slave. The Woman having taken in a Potion to provoke sleep, is also cast into the furnace. Two Men murdered at Scamachi, and a tumult thereupon. Strange Ceremonies about the Dead. The Chans' son is presented with a Kolotan, or Robe of Favour, and one of the King's Wives. A man struck dead with staves. A fearful Earthquake. The Chan also receives a Robe of Favour, and a Wife. Pompous Solemnities at the delivery of the same. He receives the Princess. New Tidings from Russia. The Ambassador commanded by the King of Persia to return for Poland; who makes his excuse, The miserable Estate of the Polish Gentry. Theft committed in the Ambassadors Palace. A man tortured that was innocent. The Polish Chirurgeon fortunatly married at Tafflis. Another Corpse of an Indian burned with a living Woman. The great kindness of Hadsy Biram to the Author. His bad entertainment with the Ambassador.  
ON the 9 th'. departed the Sister of Bochdan the Polish Ambassador for Tafflis with 7 Camels and conducted with some Georgian Soldiers. The City Tafflis is distant from Scamachy, about 8 Leagues. The next day her Brother, with the Ambassadors Chirurgeon called Adam departed also. This Chirurgeon was a Polonian by Birth, and had been sent for by the Prince of Tafflis, who entreated the Ambassador to let him come; promising him a sufficient Salary, besides, his Diet, Apartments at Court, 4 Slaves of whether sex he liked, and to provide him a Wife of his own choosing and Religion, the Prince being himself a Roman Catholic. The Chirurgeon with whom I was very intimate would often consult the Matter with me, and ask what advice I could give him. I always counciled him, Not to neglect such a golden Opportunity, telling him further what he had to expect if he should continue with such a Varlet as Bochdan was, who was both greedy and ingrateful for the best service any one could do him, althô it were supererogatory. That if the Ambassador should return for Poland, as 'twas a matter very dubious, he would still be in statu quo, and must if he stayed here never hope for any advancement by him who was become loathsome to the worst of men. He thanked me for my advice, and resolved to do as I had counciled him; and soon after departed, as is said. Right sorry I was when he left us, being ever kind to me and other Slaves, althô I was by duty enjoined to wish and rejoice at his Welfare, for his extraordinary Civilities. The Prince of Tafflis began first to be taken with him upon his noble cure performed on the Ambassador, when he was struck down by the Poles, as was said before.  

The Corpse of a rich Indian burned with a Woman Slave.  On the 15 died at Scamachy, one Tzouke a very rich Indian, whose Corpse his Brother after their manner desired to burn, which by a very long and importunate intercession of the Prince was granted, he paying for the same about .1300 Crowns. The Indian having obtained this Grant the next day bought a Christian Woman, which he burned with the Corpse. The Body and the Woman were carried together without into the Field where they had made up a great Staple of Wood and a place within for the Corpse. 
The Priests give the Woman a Potion and with an Engine throw her into the Fire.  The Indian Priests gave the Woman a Potion to provoke sleep and then set her upon an Engine like a Crane or Whip, made on purpose letting her so fall into the Fire. In the mean time the Bonzi poured a great Vessel of Turpentine Oil upon the Wood and so set it on fire, and then gave the Engine a turn, upon which the Woman fell into the fire. 'Tis true the Woman seemed by virtue of that Potion to be fallen into a Cataphor, or Dead-sleep, yet I heard her shriek out several times till the Drums, Pipes, Trumpets and other Wind-Music began to play, which was so loud and altisonant, that I could not hear any longer, althô I got a place near the Pile which was erected for these Ceremonies. Such practice was also in use among the Idolaters of Palaestina, who offered their Children to Moloch. When the Fire had consumed all, the Ashes were thrown into the River.  
On the 21 was a great noise in Town about 2 Men that were murdered, and the Homicides unknown. The Widows, 
JAN. 1670.  Children and Friends of the Parties murdered brought the Dead Bodies to the Gates of the Prince's Palace as demanding Justice, 
Two Men murdered.  and Punishment for the Delinquency. About two hours they sat by the Bodies with their Heads, and Right Arms bare, as a token that those were their Allies and Friends, and kissed the Corpses several times for they repute those that are so murdered indisputably Saints in Heaven. Hither flocked also Women from all parts and Countries round about, esteeming it a work of merit. The Persons murdered were but ordinary People, and Citizens of the meanest sort, so that the Chan, did not use much diligence in hunting out the Malefactors, for without Money Justice is rarely done. After the Corpse had laid here about 2 hours, as was said, they were by Order of the Chan carried away upon Barrows and interred in the Field, with some few Ceremonies. Every night were set up several Torches, and by day went Hundreds of Women to perform the usual Solemnities and superstitious Rites at their Tombs. The Ceremonies are as vain as foolish which they do about the Dead; at their first coming there they bow down three times at the Grave, and as often kiss it, adorning the Place round about with Flags of several Colours which they make fast to sticks.  
On the 27 was a general Exultation expressed at Scamachy, with Beating of Drums, Sounding of Trumpets and variety of Wind-Music, for that the Chans' Son had a Robe of Favour bestowed upon him, and one of the King's Wives; which were sent him for a Present as a Mark of Loyalty: and indeed the latter is never done but upon the score of an exceeding high Favour; and althô they have the names of the King's Wives, yet it mostly happens that they are pure Virgins, it being a thing impossible that he should make use of so many as are daily brought to him from all parts of his wide Dominions, which are always the most select Beauties; however the Grandees of Persia, are less contented when they find them Maids, than otherwise, and for that reason do as duly conceal it, as others who find the contrary on private Occasions; For, say they, 'tis a Greater Honour to fish in the King's Pond, than in one of their own: Nor are the Women altogether sad at such disposals, since they live, as it were, 
FEB. 1671.  in the State of Widowhood for some years together, the number of them being so great.  

A fellow Caved to Death.  On the 1 of Febr. was a Man beat to death with Canes by order of the Chan, none understanding the reason why. The Execution was done by the Domestics of the Palace, for they have no Ordinary Executioner: These tied him Hand & Foot, which done, they fell a caning him with Sticks, or Ciplins, having a great knot at the End: no member was spared in his whole, for having threshed him a while on his Back, they began with his Sides, and afterward his Belly, Thighs, Legs, Arms, etc. which kind of Death must needs be a greater Torment than Breaking upon the Wheel, which we hold too cruel and inhuman, althô in use in most Countries in Europe.  

Another great Earthquake at Scamachy.  The same day towards night we had another formidable Earthquake, and out of the Caves was heard a most hideous roaring and yelling before it began, so that none durst sleep or come near any house; however it lasted not very long, but ceased with the destruction of a few Houses, which were buried in their Rubbish.  

The Chan sent for to receive some noble Presents.  The next day came an Express to Scamachi from the Court at Ispahan, with Instructions for the Chan to come to Court, and as he and many more believed to suffer the direful effects of the King's displeasure; yet the Courier privately assured him on the contrary, as that it was to receiv some Royal Present. Betimes in the morning on the next day the Chan set out for Kallikklefthan, which is a Pleasant Dwelling belonging to the King, and about half a [Dutch] league distant from Scamachy, being accompanied with his own Son, the Calenter, all the Nobility and Courtiers, as also our Lord, the Polish Ambassador, and the Poslanic of Armenia. The Chan himself was mounted on a stately Arabian Horse, richly Capparisoned, the Mounchet or Saddle-Cloth richly embroidered and set with Pearls and Precious Stones; the Chaplets, Bits, and Buckles were of pure and solid Gold, and all the rest of the Accoutrements suitably rich and splendid. The young Prince was equally well mounted with his Father, on a Horse bespread with very rich Trappings, and a noble Harnass. The rest of the Retinue likewise appeared with as much Pomp and Stateliness, every one agreeable to his Quality. After this Cavalcade follow a great Train of Citizens, every one in his best Garb. When he came near the place he sent out an Usher to acquaint the Envoyé with his coming, who then went out to meet him, sending a Gentleman before him with the Robe, himself following after leading a stately Horse, on which the Lady was mounted which the King had sent him, guarded with a Circle of Noblemen all mounted on horseback, and a gallant Troop of Cavalry, armed with long Carbines, Bows and Arrows. So soon as the Chan saw them approach, he alighted from his Horse, as did also the young Prince his Son, and all the Retinue, walking softly on foot till they came close together, at what time the Envoye [or Wakenutz] reached forth his hand and delivered the Chan a Box of Gold, which he received with demonstration of respect and in humble manner after the Persian fashion. This don, he delivered him the Robe, which the Chan received with some Ceremonies customary among the Grandees, and forthwith drew it on. Last of all the Envoyé brought up the Bride as she sat on Horseback and delivered her to the Chan, who very reverently bowed, laying one hand on his breast and the other on the Bridle, close by the Bits: upon which the Lady held forth her Hand, which the Chan kissed, and so mounting on his Horse closed up with her, and taking leave of the Envoyé road away, presenting the Envoye with some Gifts, which he sent back to Kaliklefthan. By the way they were met with innumerable companies of People from all parts, who came as nigh as they well durst or were permitted to see the Bride, who was as richly attired as could be expected of a Princess; but after the Persian custom her Face covered, so that one could not see whether she was fair, or otherwise. Before they came at Scamachy, the Chan alighted, as also the Lady, who was set in a Chair of State and so carried by certain Persons thereto appointed into the Town, the Chan going on the one side and his Son on the other, In the mean while the Kettledrums beat, & the Trumpets sounded that the Mountains echoed, and all the People shouted with continual exclamations for Joy; for it is always the manner with the Kings of Persia, to conceal the message, to all, save him who has the Instructions, who either remunerates them with such Gifts as the King is pleased to send, or else to bring their Head along with him; so that a Prince so sent for takes his leave of all his Friends and Relations, before he sets forward to know the King's Pleasure at the Hands of his Legate: for the Errand is dispatched with such speed that they have not time to dispose or consult affairs. These extreme Mesures create great Loyalty and Obedience in the Greatest Officiated Personages; who are careful to please and fearful to displease their Sovereign Lord: neither is it one of the lest Machine's to bring vast Sums and an inexhaustible Treasure into the King's Coffers, for they emulate who should bring the greatest and most acceptable Presents: as also to such as they understand to be the chief Minions and Favourites in Court.  
The Chan having entered the City apparelled in his Robe, which was of Cloth of Gold, he was saluted with the Ordnance, and several Volleys of small Shot; The People also of all degrees and ranks continued playing and junketting the greatest part of the night.  

New Intelligence from Russia.  On the 3 dito, Lewis Fabritius road post to Derbent in order to his Journey for Moscou, upon the first good and certain news he could have from Russia: for there was a strong report that the Czar had a great Army in Camp and having beat the Rebels in open Field was ready to lay siege to Astrachan; as also that one of a high Command and next to Radzin, was taken and put to a shameful and ignominihus Death.  

A Conflict between a Polish Gentleman and a Renegado.  On the 10 dito one Slabitsky a Polish Gentleman, went to Court, where he casually met with the Chans' Trumpeter, who was a Polander, and a Renegado, where reprehending the Trumpeter for renouncing the Christian Faith, and becoming a Proselyte in Persia, he grated a little too hard upon the Renegado's Conscience, so that he after a few hot words drew his Scymiter and ran upon the Gentleman, who was not remiss in doing the like; yet having bad success in his aim, the Renegado hacked and wounded him so, that his Life was despaired of.  

The Ambassador receives a Mandate to depart.  On the 18 came an Express to my Patron, the Polish Envoyé, from the Court at Ispahan, with the same Mandate, that he should forthwith go for Poland: But he excused himself, alleging that the Caspian Sea, was full of Cosac Pirates, and that the Tartar Countries were also very unsafe, since he must go through the Osmins' Territories, who had more than once badly entreated the Polish Ministers, who were to pass that way: These were indeed likely, but not the real reasons why he deferred his Repatriation, but, as was said before, the danger he was in, of losing his Head when called in question about his ill deportment in Persia. The Gentlemen in his Retinue finding this Procrastination of his Journey to Warsaw did but increase their Misery, were almost in despair, willing rather to beg all the way home, or get into service with the Caravans. amongst the rest one Pable Witsky, a youth of 19 years of Age, departs for Smyrna with the Caravan. This young Gentleman having shown us more than ordinary favour, I thought myself obliged to do what lay in my Power to retaliate his kindness, and therefore gave him Letters to the Dutch Consul at Smyrna and to some eminent Merchants of our Nation, desiring if he should chance to be necessitated or at a loss for Money they would please to assist him, he having upon his departure no more than 20 Crowns. I gave them also a full Demonstration of what he had done for the Dutch Slaves, as also an account of his Worth in respect of his Race and Descent, he being of one of the noblest Families in the Country, and was able to remit what they thought good to disburse for him.  
On the 19 dito were 6 Silver Plates stolen out of our Master's House which put all into a disorder, he being so passionate that nought could appease him; and suspecting one Man for the Theft, he caused him to be tortured in the presence of all the Family, althô he was innocent as to the Fact. First he was beat with sticks on the soles of his Feet which he nevertheless manfully stood out: when this was done they held his Feet close to the Fire, which made him yell and roar out, that the Hair of my Head stood on end; and in as much as he could not any longer endure the Torment, he confessed what he was not guilty of, as afterwards appeared; althô when he was taken away he denied all: and thus the poor man merely because he was a Pole so used that he could neither stand nor go, nor was allowed a sufficient care to restore him to his former Sanity, nor had any thing by way of satisfaction, as an acknowledgement of a wrong.  
About this time came news from Tefflis about the Chirurgeon who had done that operation on the Ambassador, how that the Prince having understood that he was arrived sent for him, and after many Caresses and in order to his Promise, sent for one of the most eminent Merchants in the City, who had one only Daughter. The Prince than makes the Overture, telling him that young Gentleman was one with whom he had entrusted his Life, and asked if he would give him his Daughter in Marriage. The Merchant was at first surprised, hardly ready enough to give consent that a stranger he had never heard of in his Life should have his only Daughter; and yet durst not well deny him, for those Prince's rule with an Arbitrary Power; and althô out of some show of Courtesy they seem to request a thing of their Subjects, yet when occasion servs they command at their discretion: nor dare the Subject either murmur or oppose them in the least, for fear of parting with their sweet Lives, and loss of Estate which is taken from their Posterity. The Father gives consent but thought her too young for the nuptial Bed, she not exceeding 12 years of Age, and therefore prayed the Marriage might be put off till she was 2 years elder; however the Contract was signed in presence of the Prince, with Condition that she came to die without Issue that her Estate should devolve upon him. In fine he was there in very great reputation and gave the Merchant reason to be well satisfied with his Person; who showed him all Possible Favour and Friendship.  
On the 26 dito our Patron, the Ambassador, got intelligence of the Party that had stole his Plate, being discovered by a Goldsmith that had bought it; for Notice was given to all the Goldsmiths in Scamachy, that if any one bought it, he should have his Money again, and a Reward to boot. Yet this Delinquent had more favour shown him than the Party who was put to the torment before, though innocent of the Fact; for this received only a few blows on the Foot, and was declared free. He was a Polander, not in service of the Ambassador, but only a Parasite who frequented the House.  
On the first of March was another Indian Corpse burned with a Live-Woman, after the same manner as was said before; only the Wood was poured over with Naphte, in place of Turpentine Oil.  
On the 2 dito, Hadsy Biram my former Master sent for me to come to him, where he intimated how that he intended so soon as he possibly could to go for Ispahan, and asked me if I would go with him. I answered, Sir, I would be glad that I might be so happy, but the greatest difficulty will be to escape out of the Hands of my Patron: for at first he would hardly trust me over the Threshold without one to watch me, but in time gave me my Liberty to go where I would: 
MAR. 1671.  yet finding me for his bad usage desirous to be out of his hands, watches me more narrowly than he did at first. Upon this he expressed how sorry he was that he had sold me to the Ambassador, as indeed for my own part I had great reason to be: whereas by the first I had plenty of all that was necessary and was without any Oversight, but with the last suffered perpetually Hunger, Railing & Blows, and forced to lie all Winter on the hard and cold Floor without any Coverlet to keep me from cold, so that it was an evident token of GOD'S Goodness that I came off with health and soundness of Body. All the Winter long I was not permitted to come in the Kitchen, much less at the Stove, so that I had no way to warm myself, unless when I found some pieces of wood among the Rubbish which I lay together and made a Fire of; but what was worst I durst not for my life complain, however with the approachment of the acceptable Summer season I was eased of that one hardship.   

CHAP. XXIV. The manner of Celebrating New-year's day among the Persians. Advice from Boynak: from Derbent. Fire-balls fall from the Sky. Five Hundred beautiful Damosels sought up for the Scach, or Sophy of Persia. A acquaint mean by which a Merchant saves his Daughter. The Author writes to Smyrna. A Chieftain of the Cosaks brought into Scamachy; and is compelled to carry 3 of his Companions Heads in a Bag to Ispahan, where he is upon promise of detecting something of weïght set at Liberty. A Persian murdered by a drunken Georgian. The murderer executed by the Brother of the murdered Party. A Horrible Self murder committed by several Persons at a Wedding. A great Feast celebrated in memory of Hosseyn, the 3d Son of Ali. A terrible Earthquake. The Chans' Son dies and is interred.  
ON the 10 of March being the Vernal Aequinoctial begins their Year. This day is celebrated with Shooting, Playing, 
Celebration of New-year's day.  Feasting and Music. The Solemnity began with the Firing of two great Guns, and several Volleys of Muskets and lesser Fire-arms. All the night they played upon Trumpets, Cornets, Flutes and other Wind-music, besides 15 Kettledrums. This day the Persians call Naurus, and wish one another a happy New year, as is customary among us on the 1 of january. The Chan as also all the Nobles and Citizens kept open Table for several days together, whilst nothing was talked of but Visits and Banquets. My Patron professing Christianity was excused from these Expenses, holding out, that he being a Christian could not safely maintain Mahometan Superstition. This was a happy time for our Gentlemen, who now with Authority went a mumping among the Persians, nor did I think it good to dine with Duke Humphrey, so long as I had such an honest Hadsi Biram to address myself to, whither I went and was very kindly entertained.  
On the 21 we received a Letter from one of our Company, who was a Slave in Scemkal, althô there was no name set to it, at which we wondered; yet did believe it was Anthony Munster the Diamond-cutter. The Contents was, That he understood how that there were 2 Dutch Surgeons at Scamachy, whom he entreated to redeem him, and he would order the Money to be paid at Moscou. The Letter was delivered to us by order of the Chan, but we had not the Power to do any thing for him; yet understood not long after, that the said Munster was carried to Ispahan as Captiv, or Slave.  
On the 25 we got a Letter from Meyndert Meyndertsz one of our Company, which was directed to my Patron Bochdan: the Contents thereof being much at one with the former; yet he gave no other account of his fast Residence, than that he was a Slave and lived not far from Derbent, where being a Smith by his Trade he made Weapons for his Master. He was afterwards bought by a Persian of Bacchu, and since redeemed by I. van Termund.  
The next day happened a Fray between 2 Georgians, the Ambassadors Countrymen, who hacked and hewed so long with their Scymiters till they had hardly a free hand-breadth in their Bodies that was not wounded, nor could our Ambassador part them, notwithstanding all the means he could use, whereas every one has the Freedom to right himself in such cases.  
On the 31 at night we had another great Earthquake, accompanied with fearful Flashes of Lightning and Thunder: On this day was also seen at Scamachy and other places in Persia huge Balls of Fire, which seemed to be hurled down from Heaven, with such Force as if the Bands of the World would be dissolved: this being the most dreadful sight that ever I have seen in my life. The Flame thereof was bluish like Sulphur when it burns.  
The next day we got Tidings by way of Terky, that Astrachan was retaken by the Great Duke's Forces, and, that several Thousands of the Rebels were executed; 
News from Astrachan.  but hearing those news so often related and afterwards found them to be but false Rumours, supposed to be dispersed by some Persons whose Interest had dependence thereon, we could not so easily be induced to take this upon Credit, and therefore, acquiesced in the Indifferency of the matter till we had a Confirmation.  
On the 2 of April came an Order from Ispahan, 
An Order to levy 500 Wenfor the Scach.  to make a General Muster of Girls, from 2 years of Age upward, out of which the Beauties select were to be chosen out for the King of Persia. This Muster passed throughout the whole Kingdom, not respecting either Nation or Religion. The Commissioners had Order from the King, to complete the number of 500 of the best featured, complexioned and shaped Virgins that were to be found in all the whole Muster. The manner of it is thus; Some time before, the King issues a Mandate, which is published through every Province of his Realm and Dominions, That all the young Maids from 2 to 17 years' [if there be any of that age] shall be drawn up to their respectiv Metropolitans, or Chief Towns (as these in Media, were brought to Scamachy) where the King's Commissioners shall make choice on the King's behalf. This Mandate is duly and with all reverence obeyed by the Parents of such Children, who, if they have but one Child are obliged upon pain of Death to bring her to the Place appointed, where the said Commissioners are to view and censure them if they be worthy to be culled out for the King's use. Deplorable it was to see the dejected Countenance of the Parents, who brought their Children where they must take their last leavs of them, never thinking to see them again; and as remarkable it was to consider the various tempers. and differing humours of the People, whereas some who having a great love and esteem for their Children, would attire them in the ugliest Garb, and use what Arts they could to make them seem deformed and misshapen; whilst on the contrary others thinking it a Honour, and being either overburdened with their Children, or void of that tenderness, which by nature all are enjoined to have over their Issue, would use every mean they could conceiv to render them hand●m, and spend their utmost mite for Ornaments to add a Grace to their corporal qualifications, 
APRIL. 1671.  that so they might be rendered as an Emphasis among the rest.  

A Merchant loses his Daughter to find her.  When this Muster was certified and published, which is but a short warning, I knew a very rich Merchant whose greatest solace and imaginary happiness was in one only Daughter, who was already marriageable, and courted by a young Gentleman of no slender Fortune; but the Father whether he thought her a Match, in regard of her Dowry, Beauty, Wit and other Accomplishments, fitter for a greater Personage, or that the youth had some Property which he the said Merchant took dislike at, I cannot determine; yet certainly he courted her long before he could gain the will and consent of the old Man, which till these Summons came he quite despaired of. But no sooner did the old Gentleman hear of the Mandate but he sent for the Youth, and not only gave him his Daughter for his Bride but made him in Posthaste to bed with her, that so he might juramentally declare she was no Virgin. The Youngman did not desire many Months to deliberate the business, but suddenly accepted of his Offer, and so anticipated the King. Yet this did not altogether excuse them, for it was not so universally known but that some Pickthank Neighbour thinking that the Gentleman concealed his Daughter to escape the Censure, went and informed the Commissioners, that such a Virgin was not brought to the Test, being a great Beauty and well bodied. The Commissioners immediately send out a Private Summons to the Old Gentleman to bring his Daughter into the Chans' Antichambre where they held the Rendez-vous; the Old Gentleman makes his Appearance with his Son in Law and Daughter, together with some Persons of Quality to make use of in case Evidence were required where being come, he presents his Daughter, and prayed them to take his Son too, for he was the Person that had her Maidenhead, which was the only thing the King desired; In fine he declared the matter so circumstantially that she was dismissd.  
All this while I saw little hopes of ever enjoying my Freedom, so that I began to despair of Redemption. After I had consulted all means, I concluded it my best way to dispatch Letters to some of my own Nation, and accordingly sent one to the Dutch Consul at Smyrna, and another to the Sieur Molives at Leghorn, humbly entreating them to send them forward for Holland, with one acquainting them that I was in Slavery at Scamachy, and could not send any Letter with safety and conveniency through Moscovia, which was the reason of my being so importunate, as to direct them that way.  
On the 9 th'. we had very tempestuous Wether, high and impetuous Winds, mixed with Thunder and Lightning, so that all shaked again. On this day went all the Woman to the Sepulchers of their deceased Friends, to perform the customary Rites.  
The next day was a great Festival, or Holy day among them, which was solemnised with Beating of Kettledrums, sound of Trumpets, and Playing on all sorts of loud Wind-Music.  
On the 11 th'. was one of Radzins' chief Officers brought into Scamachy, being with 3 more of the Cosac Commanders sent upon an Ambassage to Boulat a Prince of the Circas-Tartars, to desire his Assistance of some Auxiliaries, promising not only to spare his Subjects, but also to give him a considerable Reward. The Prince having understood the sum of their Instructions, caused immediately Three of those to be beheaded, and their Bodies to be thrown to the Eagles and Ravens. The Heads he caused to be embalmed and put in a Bag, which he compelled the Fourth to carry to Ispahan and present the King. His one Hand and his Neck was nailed to a Wooden Collar made like a [Y] with 2 Branches, between which his Head was supported, so that he continually looked upwards. This Cosac, or rathér Renegado, for he was a Russ born, I knew very well at Astrachan. He was mounted on a bay Horse, and attired in a Garment of yellow Silk, and notwithstanding the unexpected severe Usage he met with did not seem by his Countenance to be at all concerned. 
The Cosac gets his Enlargement.   
When he was brought into Ispahan, was put into close Prison and loaden with massy Fetters and Manacles, but shortly after got his enlargement promising to impart some weighty and important affair to the King. 
MAY. 1671.   
I have already made mention, how that about 2 years before, Radzin had dispatched 7 Ambassadors to the Court at Ispahan, desiring a Supply of Men and Ammunition, as also to enter into a League with the King: but by reason the Cosacs' had plundered Astrabath, Ferrebath and Lenkeran, and committed many insolent Outrages within his Majesty's Territories, and that Radzin was not by any acknowledged as a Sovereign Prince, his Ambassadors found a very unkind Reception at Court, and meeting with some menacing Sentences in their Instructions, the King caused their Heads to be severed from their Bodies, reserving only one to bring back the Tidings, who was upon his delivery of the Message ordered by Radzin himself to be chopped into Gobbets, as may be read more at large in Pag. 192, 193. So that I held it strange that Stephen Radzin would assume the freedom to send any more Legates, without other Ground of Hope, that they should have better success than the former had.  

A Persian Saint murdered.  On the 25 was a Persian of reputed Sanctity murdered by a Georgian after a very base degenerate manner. The Murderer was forthwith apprehended and brought before the Prince, where he was accused of the Fact, and consequently delivered to the nearest Allies of the Patient to use at their discretion, as is customary in Persia; for rarely it happens that either the King, Prince, deputy or the Civil Magistracy take notice of such delinquencies, but turn over the Malefactor to the aggrieved Parties, who if they be Poor oftentimes sell their Vengeance for Money, after which the Law is silent: but here the Delinquent had not that Fortune, for, the Brother of the Murdered Party had neither Poverty nor Mercy, but so soon as permission was granted him, he caused two Men to hold him down till he had stabbed him with the same Weapon, saying, Get thee hence, thou drunken Dog, to the Devil to whom thou belongest; for the Georgian was a drunken Fellow, and executed in the same fit of Drunkness wherein he had so far mistaken himself, so that the Murder, Complaint and Execution were all done in the space of three Hours.  

A Tragical Passage at a wedding.  On the 3 of May fell out a doleful Tragedy at a Wedding, where when all the Company were in the midst of their mirth, and the Bridegroom in a gay and jolly humour was suddenly struck at the Heart, as if he had taken in something that was a vigorous and speedy poison, and immediately fell down and died in the arms of his Bride. Immediately upon this all was in a lamentable case: The Bridegroom's Mother was so impatient and concerned that she took a Knife and ripped up her own Belly, that all her Bowels gushed out, and she fell to the Ground. The Sister seeing this, ran out of Doors as one distracted, tearing her Hair and rending her Flesh, that many wondered to think how a young Woman of that tenderness could so mangle and abuse her Body, and at last ran up to the top of a steep Rock, whence she threw herself praecipitantly: so that this fair Morning had a foul Evening, and these Nuptial Solemnities which began with a Comedy, concluded with a deep Tragedy.  
On the 9 th'. was a solemn Procession made at Scamachy which is yearly celebrated in Memory of St. Hosseyn the second Son of Aly, and the Grand Expounder of the Alcoran, who was stoned to death, or, as some ascertain shot with Darts or Arrows. This Feast they call Asschur, which in their Language signifies Ten, for that Hosseyn when he went from Medina to Kufu was 10 days pursued by his Enemies, so that this Feast continues 10 days. This Hosseyn as I said before was the youngest Son of the great Aly, for whose death they seem very sorrowful. About the Beginning of this Feast those that are able apparel themselves in Blue, which is their Mourning, as Black is with us. During these 10 days they never shave their Hair, nor take any Razor in their Hands, whereas at other times they make use of it every day. They hold also a very strict Fast drinking nothing but Water, and all the time howl and make a very mournful noise, breathing out many fearful curses against the Murderer, beating themselves continually and with that earnestness till they grow black and blue. The Boys and Men run continually about the streets with Flags and Dassels, raging and bawling as if they were either drunk, or besides themselves, ever crying out O Hosseyn, Hosseyn! Others sit at the Thresholds and in the Galleries of the Mesquits, or Churches, incessantly crying, O Hosseyn, Hosseyn! O Hosseyn, Hosseyn! Before every door, and at every Window were planted many Torches, and not a House how poor soever it was in all Scamachy, without a great Number of Torches and wax candles set all in Rows, which gave a wonderful show. No less worthy of sight was the Procession, which was performed with many Ceremonies; and such was my curiosity that notwithstanding all the Thumps I got, I still crowded in among them to see all I could. First of all appeared the Chatib, or Highpriest, accompanied with a long rout of Inferior Clergy; The Chatib, or Mufti, himself was attired in a long blue Robe, with a white Torse, or Wreath about his Head, and so were all the rest of the Clergy attired after the same manner, yet different in Pomp and statelyness according to their several degrees and advancement. The Chatib had in his hand an Arabian Book, out of which he read the Memorials of the Saint with an exceeding loud voice; which ended he was silent for a little while, and then again began all the Priests to sing with a strange melody or rather howling, for it was but a confused Harmony, ever crying out O Hosseyn! O Hosseyn! Hosseyn! In short a third part of what I heard was Hosseyn. After these followed all the Great Personages; and next to them 2 Great Pageants of form, square, each with a pompous Canopy, these were supported and born by a certain number of Men, on the one was the Representation of the Prophet being signified by a Person who had taken in a Potion which made him to sleep for 48 hours together, lying upon a Bier. Round about the [supposed] Corpses sat 6 little Boys, who had the Art of weeping ad unguem. Above the Canopy stood two Towers very pompous and costly, and out of the one a Youth put forth his Head weeping aloud and dolefully cried out Hosseyn, Hosseyn! O Hosseyn, Hosseyn! On each side the Pageant ran several young Men all naked, save only about the Middle, having anointed themselves with Flower and black Naphtha, that they looked more like Satyrs than Men: in their Hands they had Truncheons, wherewith they threatened (quasi verò) to bastonado the Murderer: Others there were who carried in each hand a Flint or some hard stone, which they smote together, still howling and weeping aloud, that had it not appeared otherwise by their wanton Actions when any She-slave came near them I should have taken all for real and unfeigned sorrow. All this while they jumped and twisted themselves into many postures; the Air still Echoing with Hosseyn, Hosseyn. Besides these were 6 lusty Men of robust Bodies having each a naked Scymiter in the hand, and bareheaded: these danced after a very odd manner making various Figures, and always at turning made an effectual Exercise of their Weapons, in such manner that the Blood which came gushing out of the Wounds on their Heads ran down their Shoulders with such streams, that no part of their Bodies was free of Blood; and to those Champions was imputed a great measure of Sanctity, for that they had voluntarily shed their Blood for the sake of the great Hosseyn. In one of their Heads (as I afterwards could descry) were more than 20 Wounds.  
After this followed the second Pageant which was carried by the like number of Men. Above it had a Coffin, upon which was a green Turban, and round about it were also 6 young Men, each one with an Koran in his Hand, wherein they continually read. After this Pageant there followed another small one, on which was carried a Vessel, not much unlike a Bathing-Tub, full of Blood, wherein sat two Children, nothing appearing save only their Heads [perhaps to represent the 2 Sons of that reputed Martyr] This was carried with a strange noise of vocal Music, but to me seemingly void of Rule and Judgement. Last of all came another small Pageant, with a fair blue Silk Covering, and thereon sat a Youngman who read all the way in a great Book. After these Pageants, or Brancards, followed 4 Noblemen, each leading a horse of State, richly capparisoned: The Saddles being of Gold, and beset with Precious Stones. On the far-side had each Horse a Damaskin Scymiter, and on the near-side a Shield. On each Saddle was a Turban, adorned with variety of Gems and unspeakably rich. This Solemnity was concluded with a grand Retinu of Citizens, who seemingly surpassed all the rest in Devotion. When the Pageants were come before the Door of the Deputy they stood still: and the Deputy accompanied with all the Nobles about the Court, road out to hear the Chatyb [or Sermon] that the Priest before mentioned, according to the custom, was to preach, which he did with such Zeal, as that the Chan [or Deputy] with all that heard him could not refrain from weeping. Most of the Sermon was a collaudatory Rehearsal of the Sanctity and Noble Acts of Hosseyn, together with a Historical recitation of his Martyrdom. When the Chatyb was concluded there came an Image of Straw mounted upon an Ass, armed with Bow and Arrows: this Figure was to represent the Murderer, who as he road through the Preas, every one contemptuously spit upon him, and cursed him with the most bitter Cursings of Hell, Misery, and what else they could imagine, for the violent Hands he had laid upon so holy a man.  

Another Earthquake.  On the 16 was another Earthquake which for some time raged so, that the Ambassadors palace was shaken, and all the Dishes and what else was loose fell; besides several Houses that were near us were hurled down.  

A man beat to Death.  On the 17 another Man was Caned to Death by 6 of the Chans' Domestics: and on the same day died the Chans' Son, being a Child of 6 months old, and buried the next day after, with great pomp and station. 
Death and Funeral of one of the Chans' Children.  The Body was not put in a Coffin, but carried open (after the Persian manner) upon a Bier, by some of the greatest Personages, some of them going on each side, supporting a Caerulean Canopy: for Blue with them, as Black with us, is the Mourning Colour. The Chan himself followed the Bier, and next to him his Son, being about 15 years of Age: after those the Noble Personages and Courtiers, according to their rank and degree. When they were come to the Sepulchre, the Body was set down before the Door of the Chapel, or Oratory, where the Nobility distributed Alms to the Poor, bestowing also very liberally certain pieces of Gold upon the Priests thereby enjoining them to pour out their Prayers for the Soul of the Departed, and to have him in perpetual Remembrance. This don the Body was carried inward, and laid in a new Grave, upon which was a fair Tomb or Monument of white Marble, with admirable curious Foliage, and other Ornaments of Sculpture. The Priests received the Body to inter it with many Ceremonies and Bowing. When all was closed the Chan drew near to kiss the Tomb, as also his Son, and the rest of the Nobility, and so after their former rank and order returned back to the Palace.   

CHAP. XXV. News from Astrachan. A Persian Woman and Adulteress taken in the Fact. A Young Gentleman caned to death by Order of the Prince and complaint of his Father. Another put to the same death. One of the Author's Companions goes for Ispahan, Hailstones as big as Eggs. The Author and a Venetian entertained in an Armenian Monastery. A Woman taken in Adultery, for which she is surrendered up to the Will and Power of her Husband, who fleas her alive, nails up her Skin upon the Wall, and throws out her Carcase into the street. The great Jealousy of the Persians. The male Children about the Court gelded. The great Slave market at Scamachy. The unnatural custom of the Geor-Georgians, The Ambassador receives a Charge to depart.  
ON the 19 dito we had very tempestuous Wether, 
Tempestuous Wether.  with fearful Flashes of Lightning and Thunder, that I thought the World would be dissolved, for it was more dreadful than either my Tongue or Pen is sufficient to express, nor did I ever see the like in all my Life. And the same day we got Tidings from Astrachan, 
News from Astrachan.  that the City was of a certainty taken in by the Great Duke, that the Army of the Cosacs' was beat in open Field, and Stephen Radzin, the grand Belwether taken alive. The Success of the Day next to the Power of the Almighty was ascribed to the Germane and Dutch Forces, for which good service they received considerable Favours from the Czar, and were beyond the Russians themselves remunerated with several Tokens of Gratitude.  
On the 20 was a great Wrestling Match, of 6 expert Wrestlers being strangers, who quitted themselves in the Game with an admirable Dexterity, doing many noble Exercises in presence of several Hundred Spectators, who could not behold them but with great Wonder. When they had performed all, they went about with a Porceline Dish to desire Money by way of reward.  
On the 21 were two of the Ambassadors Gentlemen taken into Custody, and put into fetters by the Persians, for that they had lay with a Mahometan Woman. The Woman herself was shortly after brought and delivered to the Ambassador, to deal with her according to his Discretion; and if he liked to hew her into Gobbets, such bein the Desire of her Husband, who declared himself willing to acquiesce in what was done. But the Ambassador who had been so long at the Academy of Venus, was such an expert Proficient that he could say his Lesson with out book as w●ll as his Domestics, take'em one for one: and in short had such compassion on her that he sent her away a free Remissionary, but not without reconciling her to her Husband. Soon after the Gentlemen also got enlargement.  
On the 22 a Youngman (according to Sentence passed upon him) was beat to death with Sticks, being to pass through the Town and at the Corner of every Street to receiv a certain number of Blows, till at last he dropped down dead. This was mainly occasioned upon the request of his unnatural and merciless Father, who was an eminent Gentleman, and Inhabitant of Scamachy. The Crime for which he was accused was a kind of satire, or a Pasquil, which he had written and sent to the Governor: the main purport whereof was in these Words. How comes it that your Lordsh, grows such a great Saint all on a sudden? Who has possessed your mind to alter those long continued Customs of the Persians? And do you not know what Dishonour it is to all the Musulmans and the whole Kingdom in general? Or are you indeed become a Christian? etc. This Innovation he meant, was an Interdiction which the Chan or Governor, had issued 3 days after the Procession, That none should hew and cut (as was their Custom) with Swords in the Streets, like as we have spoke more amply in the Feast of Aly. The Father, some said, durst not but make complaint, lest it should have been imputed to himself as Misprision, it being well known by others that it was his Son who sent the Libel. But it may be observed that those who would put the affair in that Posture, were either prejudiced or biased Persons. But others who were indifferent looked upon it as an Example of Unmercifulness and Ambition, where he only did it for Hopes of Favour from the Chan, which be esteemed a Purchase equivalent to his son's Life. The next day was another Man beat to Death, by 7 of the Chans' Domestics before the Gates of the Palace, but for what I could not learn.  

A Narrativ from Russia.  Upon the 26 we got another Narrativ, which confirmed the former News from Astrachan; as also, how that Radzin was carried to Moscou. In the mean while Mr. van Termund makes preparation to go for Ispahan, and with all diligence makes up a Company, to the end that he might travel more secure, there being then a great rumour of many Insolences perpetrated by the Wood-rangers: 
JUNE. 1671.  and on the 29 set forward, taking with him Peter Arentsz of Schevelingen, one of our Ships-Company, and a Polish Jew, who had been taken by the Scemkal-Tartars and made his Escape.  
On the 30 arose a most hideous Tempest of Wind, Thunder, 
Great Storms and Hail.  Hail and Lightning; which continued for two days together after which all was very calm and still and the air very serene. The Hail did much damage to the Fruit, every Hailstone being of an unusual bigness, some as large as the Egg of a Hen or Turkey.  
On the 6 of June I went with a Venetian (who had been a Slave in Turkey and run away) about 15 Miles within Land, where we found an Armenian Friary. The Monastics received and treated us very kindly, when they understood that we were Christians, and in Slavery to the Mahometans. They entreated us to tell them all the passages we had met with abroad, which the Venetian first did, and afterwards desiring me to do the like, I related all in brief, which they took great delight to hear, especially about the taking in of Astrachan. They desired us further to tarry with them for some time, which we promised to do, and accordingly stayed there two nights. All the time they caressed us with all kindness imaginable, neither sparing for Victuals nor good Drink: professing themselves sorry that our condition would not allow them the happiness of a longer enjoyment of our Company. Their manner of Life was very single, without any Encumbrance of the Mahometans, their Housholding regular and gentile, and the Men among themselves mutually loving one another, and sociable with strangers, very charitable to all that were in necessity, of what Opinion or Faith soever they were. Right loath we were to leave them, but not daring to stay any longer, we took our leavs of them, thanking them for their kindness and civility they had shown us. In taking our way to Scamachy, we were fain to climb over some Hills, and one great Mountain flat at Top, upon which was a Lake, according to our guessing, 3 miles in Circuit. Going along the shore to our great amazement we found four Bodies of Men that had but newly been murdered, having their throats cut, we supposed them to be Anglers, seeing Fishing Canes and other Implements about them. However, we thinking it for two reasons unsafe for us to stay there any longer, made all the hast we could to get out of the way. This Lake as we afterwards understood was very plentiful of many kinds of delicate Fish, which are sold very dear and highly esteemed of abroad throughout all that part of the Country, and indeed it was once our thoughts to make a Trial if we could take any thing, till meeting with these new murdered Persons, we choosed rather to let the Fish remain in their Element, than by the probable consequence to pay too great a price for our sport.  
It happened once that my Patron received a sudden Message from the Prince to come to Court; upon which he gave me Order to saddle his best Horse: now the Saddle which he ordered me to set on being richly set with Pearls and Precious stones, he kept it always, in the Chamber where his Plate was, so that I must pass through three Chambers to fetch it, but opening the Door of the second Room I found my Patroness standing naked in the Bath, upon which being in a great amazement, and fearful that this rash Action might be represented to my Master, who might make me pay for my Peeping, in all hast I retreated and offered to run out again, which she seeing, cried out, Ho! ho! done't run away, go through and fulfil your Lords Commands. This she said with a smiling Countenance, which cured me of the Palsy, that the sight of her had already struck me into.  

The Ambassadors Brother goes to Ispahan.  On the 10 th'. the Ambassadors Brother departed for Ispahan, to make complaint against the Chan, about the Money that the Ambassador had upon Interest and disbursed for him, which he could not get in.  

The great Slave-Fair.  On the 11 th'. of july is a great Fair at Scamachy, upon which day above 500 Slaves were brought to Market, that being their main Traff●ic. Of these Slaves are of all sorts of People, Men, Women, Children, Christians and Pagans, Polonians, Russians, Georgians and Circas-Tartars. The Poles & Russes are commonly stole by the Dagestan-Tartars, as also the Circasses which are Heathens, for according to the Voice of the Koran no Mahometan [or Musulman] may be made a Slave, which mainly tends to the Propagation of Turcism. On the contrary the Circas-Tartars in revenge do steal the Dagestans and sell them to the Russians. And so the Tartars, althô seemingly many Nations, yet doubtless of old one People, live in constant jars and private Hostility, who if they had but Discretion and Conduct answerable to their Power, were in a capacity to subdue both Russ— and Persia. But as for the Georgians they are generally such as are sold by their own inhuman Parents, and in that out do both Turk and Pagan who will not make sale, of such as are of their own Opinion or Nation, much less their own Children, which is a thing so besides Nature, that the most savage Beasts do abhor it, and will as soon part with their Life as with their Young. This Fair, which, as I have said, consists most in the Sale of stolen Booty is a great advantage to Derbent and Scamachy, which of late years seem to flourish mainly, and for this reason is frequented by many Merchants, where they ordinarily find all things at an available price. The Slaves being brought to Market, the Buyer goes about and seeing one he likes, the first thing he does is to look him in the mouth, as we do Horses, 
Slaves how bought and tried.  causes him to be stripped, and feels him all over, but especially his Wrists and Muscles, thence collecting what strength he is of, and what service he is able to do him. If the Buyer intent to employ him about Messages, he causes him to run out 10 or 12 Paces, others make them to stand in all Postures, and so value them according to their Age, soundness of Body and strength. If the Buyer chance to find any reasonable fault, failing, or blemish in his Slave within the space of 3 days, he may return him to the seller and receive the value again; and this advantage has the Buyer also in most other things, or if I am not mistaken in all save damageable Commodities.  
On the 12 the Calenter who is next to the Chan in Power and Office came to our Ambassador with an Order from the Scach, 
The Polish Ambassador receivs another Order to depart.  to bid him make preparation for his Journey, and in all haste to depart. But the Ambassador returned him his wont reply: That he was at present destitute of Money, and not able to undertake the Journey, unless the Chan would pay him what he was owing him, upon the receipt of which he would immediately go, without more or further delay.   

CHAP. XXVI. A dreadful Tempest. Great Balls of Fire fall upon the Earth. A most fearful Deluge whereby Houses, Men and abundance of cattle are carried away. The Chan receivs another Robe of Favour. The Offerings of the Banjans, for the Fowl and Fish. The Religious Exercise of the Persian Women. The Author's Discourse with the Chan. The Author meets with one of the Tartars who had made him Slave. He gets out of the service of the Polish Ambassador. The great Bounty and Kindness of his Patron Hadzi Biram, and of Altine his Patroness. One of his Company, made free.  
ON the 13 was a violent storm, 
A great Storm.  with Thunder and Lightning which very much endamaged the Ambassador's House, and took away the Roof of many other Houses round about. The Air was as if it had been all Fire, and a Sulphury flame, and sometime were seen great balls like burning Brimstone falling down. About 8 in the Evening I saw a great massy lump of Fire, which made the Earth shake again when it fell, and so burst all to pieces. Formidable, I thought, were the great Ordnance in the Dardanelli when they were discharged, being reputed the greatest in the World: But there was as much difference between this and them, as there is between a Mountain and a Molehill. About 2 hours after fell down 6 more, which were as big as Hogsheads, these consumed and wasted a great part of the ground where they light. This Tempest continued about 48 hours; after which followed a very calm season.  
On the 15 we had news from Ardebil, how that Monsr. Termund with P. Arentsz his servant were arrived there safe and well, althô not without some difficulty by the way, meeting with some Robbers, but the Konjack telling them that he was sent to the Schach on an Express, they let him go without further trouble.  

A great Deluge.  The next day fell abundance of Rain, that all the whole Face of the Country round about Scamachy lay under Water, and the streams coming from the Mountains brought down huge Pieces of Rocks and Stones which came down into the Town and carried away several Houses with them, as also many People who were on every side environed with the Floods that they could not help themselves. This Tempest concluded with fearful Thunderclaps and Lightning, as if the last day were come.  

Many people drowned.  On the 17 the Chan had a Robe of Favour sent him from the King. The Envoyé who brought it being arrived at the King's House without the City sent notice and acquainted the Chan with his coming, who according to the Custom set his House in order and took leave of his Friends, fearing that this was upon a sharper Errand than the last, the more I suppose, because my Patron's Brother had been at Ispahan to acquaint the King, that his Brother, the Polish Ambassador had such a sum of Money due to him from the Chan, and could not for the want thereof undertake his Journey for Warsaw. The Chan makes preparation to go and know the King's Pleasure, being mounted on a stately Arabian Horse, and followed with a great Retinu of Nobility and Courtiers, all well mounted, as before So soon as he was come there the Envoyé fulfils his Commission and delivers the Robe, after the same manner & with the same Ceremonies as were before mentioned: 
AUG. 1671.  and having taken his leave of the Courier returned into the City with variety of Wind-Music, Kettledrums and Trumpets.  
On the 18 of August we had a great Earthquake which raged a long time together, in which many Dwelling Houses, Stables and Barns without the Walls on the East-side of the Town were thrown down, and abundance of Men crushed to pieces. When the Earthquake was past, it began to rain very hard, and blew extremely. 
Superstition of the Banjans.  The same day I had occasion to go without the Walls where walking a little towards the Fields I saw about 100 Benians performing Sacrifices to the Fowls and Fish. They lay upon their knees and strewed Rice and Beans upon the Land and in the River. These Indians will never kill any living Creature, not so much as Lice, which althô they take yet set them down in some place or other to pasture, and let them shift for themselves. When they see any Person go out a Birding with a Fowling-piece, 'Gins, or other Implements they will give him Money to go home again; or, if they perceiv any one about to shoot they will be sure to spoil his Game, by chasing away the Fowl, insomuch, that if the Party be a Choleric man, they are in danger of their Lives. The like they do with the Fish, when they see any come to Angle, and trouble the water. When they are about to make water, or ease themselves they always look about them if there be no Vermin or any thing that hath life upon the Ground, which if there be, they remove it away very carefully, lest they should do it harm. During the time of these Festival Days, which happens 8 times a year, they will burn no Candle, Taper, or Torch; lest Muskettos, and other Infects that fly about the Flame should sing their Wings. They have also offered the Chan a considerable sum of Money that no Beast should be slain during the time of these Feasts, but the Chan would not listen to any such thing. These people are also very superstitious in many other things, and withal strict and zealous. They will not use either Dish or any other Vessel belonging to such as are not of their own Sect, yet will suffer others to make use of theirs. They abstain from Flesh, and Fish, and whatsoever had, or may have life, insomuch that they are as shy of an Egg as of the Bird that lays it. They are very subtle in Traffic, and in that are said to surpass not only the other Indians, but all other Nations.  
On the 26 was a great Holiday among the Persians, when as all the Women went to perform their Solemnities at the Graves of their deceased Friends and Allies upon the Mountains, where they frequently beat their Heads, Kissed the Tombs and other Ceremonies more, which are all the Religious Duties their Women are enjoined to, that I could observe: for they never go to the Mosques, or Churches, nor ever do they pray at home, but leave all to the Piety of the Men, who go to prayer 3 times a day, and there appear very devout, to wit at Morning, at Noon and at Night, invoking the Assistance of the Angels. At their first Entrance into the Mosquite, they utter these words, This I do in the Name of the Almighty GOD: which said they utter some short Prayer, that they have by form prescribed, directing it to certain Angels, that they would vouchsafe to chase away the Devil, that he may not incommodate them in their Prayer. When they have made their Address to the Angels, they then apply themselves to GOD, in these words: Praised be GOD, the Lord of the Last Judgement. Thou O Heavenly GOD hast power to help us, wherefore we adore thee. Help us to find and continue on the right Way, not on the Way where sinners commit sins, but on that Way where no Error is. Amen.  
The next day being the 27 I presented Hadzi Biram my former Patron with the Model of a Ship and a Galley which cost me about 3 Month's Labour. On the Ship were 40 Guns, and 10 on the Galley, with 42 Oars, both being complete, as to Masts, Sails Rigging, Anchors, etc. Hadzi accepted of it kindly, and forthwith presented it to the Prince as a great Rarity. The Prince was greatly taken with it, and asked Hadzi Biram, whether I was at Scamachi, which understanding desired to see me; upon which my Patron sent a Slave to fetch me. I had hopes that this might work out my Redemption and bring me into Favour, went without much delay to give Attendance, where being admitted and come within presence I bowed after the Persian manner, with my Hand upon my Breast. The Prince, seeing me stand at a distance, bade me come near, which I did. Then he fell to ask me some Questions as to my Country, and the Occasion of my coming thither, which I answered. Then he asked me if such Ships ever engaged in Battle, one against another? To which I replied, That 2 Fleets being between 2 and 300 Sail of the English and Hollanders, encountered each other, continually firing their Guns, and then proceeded to Boarding, Sinking, Burning, or Blowing up. He then asked me, why those two Nations professing one Faith and Religion made War upon each other. I answered him, that it was for no other reason than the Mahometans made War against each other, and those two mighty Potentates the Schach of Persia, and the Ottoman Emperor, professing one and the same Faith in substance. The Prince turning about to Hadzi Biram, told him that what I said was justly true. Upon this came in some Great Personage, and giving me the Beck, a Token that I must withdraw, I went away as much a Slave as I came in.  
On the 28 was a great Silver Goblet stole out of our House, but there was such a narrow scrutiny that the Thief was immediately found out, and after several blows on the Foot with a Staff, was put in Fetters. He was a Georgian, and the Ambassadors Townsman.  
On the 31 I took a melancholic Walk through the Town, and immediately had a Rescontre with one of the Tartars that took us and made us Slaves, he being the very Man that tied me to his Horse's Tail, dragging me backwards through Thorns and Brambles stone-naked. I had no sooner seen him but my Blood began to boil in my Veins, and my heart beat, still studying what way to be avenged of the Villain. I dogged him so far till I found a convenient place, and having a good Truncheon in my Hand, with a knot at the end, as the Persians commonly carry about with them, with which I lent him such a Dandy-flute on the Forehead, that he tumbled down like an Ox, upon which not willing to lose my Labour I pumme'ld so about the Chaps, that Blood came gushing out at his Nose and Ears; and well it was that I had not my Knife about me, for if I had, I should surely have sent him to salute his Grandfather: yet my fear was that I had already sent him on that Errand, for he lay as dead upon the Ground, which I observing, and dreading the consequence, made all the hast I could to get away: However being seen by some Persians, who it seems had been Spectators all this while at a distance, one of them caught me by the Arm and with a surly look, asked me, saying, What is your meaning, Friend? d'ye intent to murder a Man at noonday upon the Street? Hold, hold, you are not to go so, you must be answerable to the Governor for this Insolency. But to satisfy them, I made answer, That he was a Dagestan Flagiary or, Manst●aler, and took me being a Free Person to sell me as a Slave; and with one told them, how inhumanly and with what cruelty he had used me: I told them also that was a Domestic of the Polish Ambassador: Hearing this they let m● go: but coming at the Corner of the Street I met with 10 or 12 o● his Company, all Tartars, who no sooner understood what was do● but they ran all over the Town to seek me, and perceiving my sel● environed on every side I ran into a Tobacco house under pretext o● smoking a Pipe, paying my usual Penny: and here I lurked till 〈◊〉 thought the Coast was clear, and so ran home. But it was not long before I heard a whole Troop of Tartars at the Gate, who were the same that followed me, bringing the silly Miscreant along with them, al● bloody and plastered with Kennel-dirt, to show him to my Lord. The Ambassador understanding what was the Matter, called me to him, and hearing all the whole Passage, said to me, Get you gone, yo● Loggerhead, why did you not strike home? then we had not had this clutter at the Door. Hence, hence, I say, and do your business better the next tim● when it comes to your turn, go turn me this Rabble from the Door. A hard Task upon my Word, yet coming below, all the Gentlemen and Servant waited there, longing to hear what result I had, and understanding, what the Ambassador's Pleasure was, they resolved unanimously to furnish themselves with Truncheons and Clubs, and fa● upon them on a sudden, which we did and threshed them manful back and sides, for we were 2 to one: The poor Dagestan that wante● full Satisfaction got a handsome share in the Fray, and was so throughly basted with Oil of Canes that he who at the first coming to th● Door, pretended that he could not go, or stand, was so well anointed that he knew how to cut a Caper as well as his Companions Which I also said to a Gentleman that told it to my Lord. He laughe● heartily, saying, I protest this Hollander is an excellent Surgeon.  
The Time drew on when all the Caravans fitted and made preparation for Ispahan, which I greatly longed for. And to lose no Opportunity that would make for it, I addressed myself to my Patron humbly begging that I might have my Liberty, which at last h● assented to, on Condition I would be accountable to him for th● 150 Abas, which he told me he paid for me, refusing to give it m● without. However he let me know privately by a third Person, tha● if I was desirous to be free that I should give him a certain Present, 
OCTOB. 1671.  which was named. Finding now that I had such means of gaining my sweet Freedom, I applied myself to Monsr. L. Fabritius, of whom I got so much Money as I thought would serve my Turn. With this Money I bought a good Persian Horse; but coming to present it, he had no liking to it, so that I was fain to buy another, which I thought might please him better; yet this he fancied no better than the former, so that I was fain to look out for another. The Persian [Jockey] showed me another, and a stately Arabian Gelding, 
The Author obtains his Freedom.  for which I was fain to give a greater Sum. As for the other two the Seller took them again for the same Money, for that is an Established Rule in Persia, that when ever a Man buys any such Merchandise, to wit, Slaves, or cattle, he may return it in 3 days, if it be not for his Turn. This satisfied my Patron very well and upon my delivering it, told me I might go when I saw conveniency.  
On the 29 th'. of October I went about to take my leave of all my Friends and Benefactors. The many great Favours that were shown me from Hadzi Biram my former Patron, and the great Civility of his Lady obliged me above the rest to perform that piece of Duty and manifest my thankfulness to them for their Bounty. When I came there I found my Patroness Altina at home, the rest being all gone to bathe as they do every day. My Patron himself was also abroad about his Affairs. My Patroness upon my coming in bad me welcome, having understood the reason of the Visit: and seeing me stand at a distance, bade me sit down, saying, her Husband would come home at Noon. Entering into some earnest discourse, she asked me what my Master, the Ambass. had given me for the service I had done him, Nothing at all, Madam, said I, but my liberty to famish, which I must certainly have done, if I had not been supplied by your bountiful Goodness, to whom I have made bold to have recourse, so often that I was ashamed. Well, replies the good Gentlewoman, has he given you nothing, as a Corrolary for your Faithfulness? I shall do it myself, upon condition you tell it to no person whatsoever; and with that fetched me a costly Jewel, and several pieces of Money, which far outvalued the Price I was sold for. After a little discourse she desired me to stay at Scamachy, and so renewed what she had propounded to me at Derbent, to wit; that we should go together for Moscovia, and so for Holland; but I weighing the danger of the Cosacs', who still molested the Caspian Sea, durst not resolve thereupon, but desired her to put that out of her mind. She perceiving me not at all flexible to embrace her Proposals, grew on a sudden very Heartless and dejected, and with a deep sigh said, Well, I find myself in despair of ever coming into Christendom, yet the Will of GOD be done: and seeing you are resolved to go for Ispahan you would do well to take your Journey with my Husband, who intends if the season prove good to set forward to morrow, very early. Incredible was my Joy to hear the news, that my Patron was to take the Journey so suddenly, who had an entire and unfeigned Love for me, as I have already shown. About 2 hours after my coming thither came my Patron himself, who understanding by my Patroness that I was come to take my last leave of him, bade me sit down, and after a friendly welcome told me if I would go along with him to Ispahan, he would bear my Charges. I accepted of his kind Offer, with all telling him, how that I was ashamed of the freedom I had assumed to myself in being a continual burden and Charge to him: but since it was an intention of his to heap yet greater favours upon me, I prayed him to admit 2 more of my Countrymen into our Company, to wit, L. Fabritius and Christian Brandt, who were redeemed by the East-India Company, upon the Intercession of Monsr. Termund, they bearing their own Charges: He made answer, John, for your sake it shall be done althô there were Twenty of'em. When all was in a readiness I went to give my Patroness the last Adieu, and observed that Tears stood in her Eyes. William B. Klopper I would fain have had along with us, but he judged it better to stay with the Polish Legate, thinking to come that way, and through Moscovia sooner home, than by the Indies, the more because he found himself unsound of Body, and very unfit to undertake so great a Journey, and after that so long a Voyage, and pass the Line twice; thus with Tears we took our Leavs of each other, with order that who soever did first arrive at home should give an account of the last Condition he left the rest in. The same day that we left Scamachi I met with Meynder● Meyndertsz, who, as was said in Pag. 258, being a Smith by his Trade, made Knives and Swords for his Patron at Bachu, and had continued so long in Slavery, this Place being the most noted in all the Country for Steel and Iron work, as Neurenburg in Germany, or Sheffield in England. His Master had tried all means possible both by Promises and Threats, 
OCT. 1671.  to make him renounce Christianity and embrace Mahometanism. He was also redeemed at the Charges of the East India Company, and designed for Gammeron by way of Ispahan, but he being not altogether provided for the Journey we could not get him along with us in the same Caravan.   

CHAP. XXVII. Their departure out of Scamachi. The Country about Kasily described and the manner of living of the Inhabitants. A Description of the River Araxes. The Heath of Mokan, whither all the Banditti and Mutinous Persons have recourse. Abundance of Tortvises near Balharu. The Poverty, yet contented Life of the People and Inhabitants there about. The Author set upon by Robbers. The Carravan Assailed and Plundered. A famous stone Bridge. The sepulchre of Zeyde Tzeybrail. Arrival at Ardebil. The Situation of that Town. The bitter Cold. Great and raging Whirlwinds. Extraordinary good Wheat. The great Toll and Duty paid for Sheep. Seven and Fifty Towns within the Jurisdiction of Ardebil. A Description of the City, of its Streets, and of the Street of Strumpets, who are Poëtesses and ordained to compose Hymns of Praise to the name of the Great Aly. Free Places within the City. The Markets and Shops. Sumptuous Mezids and Chapels.  
ON the 30 dito, by God's good Conduct we set forward, with the whole Caravan, which consisted of 2000 Men, or upwards, and about 1000 Camels and Horses of Carriage. My Master also had 20 Horses of his own in particular loaden with Chestnuts, for a Present to the King of Persia, for one having any Matter, or Affair at Court never appears before either the Scach, or any subordinat Prince, empty handed. Our way was over very high and steep hills: amongst which we found the Sepulchre of a great Persian Saint called Pyr Mardechan, being at the foot of the Mountains of Faherlu. The Country here about lies waste and desert, there being neither Inhabitant, nor Provision to be had by the way, so that we made all the hast we could to get the Carawansera. This hard travailing was not very unwelcome to us, because that the weather was cold, althô some of the Horses being heavy loaden and tired were left behind. About the Evening we came to Kasily where we took up our night's lodging. The Country round about easily is altogether barren and dry, except here and there some good pasturage, so that the manner of Living with the Inhabitants is like that of the Tartars, moving to and again over the face of the Country with their Wives, Children, Utensils, cattle, and what else they have, and when they set down pitch their Tents all in Rows, which they call Ostak. During our travailing through this Country we could get little else but Milk to refresh ourselves: however my Patron out of his Bounty would not suffer me to want for any thing, but imparted to me what he had as well Victuals to eat, as Wine to drink, which served me for a good Breastplate against the Cold.  
Having stayed one night at Kasily, we set forward and about 8 a clock the next evening came to a fair Village called Tzawaar, or Tzawat, as some call it, which is so much as to say, a Thoroughfare; because that here is the Passage which brings over the grand River Araxes, and here every one is to show his Passport, out of fear that some Turks should slip over with the Caravan, of whom the Persian is always jealous, and are constrained to take sharp notice of every particular Person. At this place is a long Bridge made of Keels, and thwarted with massy Planks, that are fastened together with great Bolt and Chains, which for better security is guarded with a good number of Soldiery. When we were transported over the said River, we took our Nights-rest in the Open-fields.  

A Description of the River Araxes.  The River Araxes takes its head about the high Mountains between Schirwan and Mokan behind Mount Ararat, running North-east till it finds the River Kur, or Cyrus, where it disgorgeth itself, about 39 degr. 54 min. Northerly latitude, where these two Rivers are incorporated. Kur, as it is vulgarly called, rises in the Mountains of Georgia or Gurgistan. Araxes is reckoned to be one of the swiftest Rivers in all Asia, very deep and good Water. Araxes also receives several other noble Rivers, to wit, Carasu, Senki, and Kerni Arpa; About the Mouth of Carasu it is at the deepest, but about a league from Ordabath it makes a horrisonant roaring and a most hideous murmur, where it receives the floods of the famous Mochan, which River, as well as the Araxes, abounds with various kinds of Fish. The Banks which in most Places mount very high, are all grown o'er with the shrub Gli●yrrhiza, a kind of Liquirice, as also Liquirice of the common kind, but far thicker than either the Spanish, Germane, 
NOV. 1671.  or that which is brought from Moscovia, for I have seen some of it that was thicker than my Arm.  
On the 3 of November we travailed 5 leagues over the Heath of Mochan, and saw by the way many Hurdles and Boors Cottages, but durst not call at any to provide our selus with Refreshments, being sensible of the perils, for hither are all those sent to Exile whom the Scach thinks good to banish, and hither resort all the Mutineers; so that these like the Banditti in the Alps, render the way very unsafe and incommodous to travel, sometimes surprising and assailing the Caravans, when they find themselves of Force enough, or the Caravan too weak to withstand'em.  
On the 4 th'. dito, we set forward, 
Multitudes of Tortoises about Baltharu.  and in the way found the River Baltharu, which for Greatness gives place to all the before named; but, for the Multitudes of Tortoises that are taken here about, no less famous nor inferior to any other in all the surface of the Country. All along the Banks we saw holes and caves which those Animals had made in the Sand, the shore appearing like a Coney-borrough. These Caves have their mouth or entrance always to the Southward, where they lay their Eggs. On the Country through which this River softly glides we saw several Cottages or Tents, as we did the day before, but found the Inhabitants harmless and very poor, yet merry and jocund, the Children were stark naked, and the Men and Woman had hardly clothes enough to cover their middle. They received us in very friendly manner according to their ability, bringing us Milk for our selus, and Provender for the Camels and Horses, which they sold at a very mean and inconsiderable Price, considering under what necessity we were then. This day we travailed 6 [Dutch] League's.  
On the 5 we travailed about as far as we did the day before, but were fain to take up our Lodging under the great Canopy of Heaven, setting down with the whole Caravan, near some Water-pitts, where we found good pasturage for the Beasts, considering the season of the year.  
The next day we found an end of the Heath Mokan, and had High-land to travail over, as the Mountains of Bethzyrvan, or Bethzyrum. This day we crossed a small River (if I well remember) 12 times, having a crooked or serpentine Course, which the Merchants of Scamachy for their Conveniency, had promised a considerable Sum of Money to some Ingenieurs to to make straight, yet by reason of many intervening Hills, and those mostly of a hard rock could not be effected. At night we got the Village Schechmurat, where my Patron sent me out to fetch some Spring-Water: but being about half an [English] mile without the Town was assailed by 3 Robbers, who suddenly came running out upon me, having their Eyes fixed my Armour; so that in all probability, that which I had for my Defence would have been my Death, if some belonging to the Caravan and sent upon the same Errand, had not come in time to assist me; for I was almost out of breath with defending myself, having my Back against the Ruins of an old Wall, which seemed to be the Relics of some Watch-Tower. One of the 3 I had wounded very sore on the Arm, but the other two breaking in proved too strong for me: yet when they say the rest come in and close up with them, thought it better to make use of their Heels than their Hands.  
On the 7 th'. we travailed over very hilly and montanous Ground, encamping that night in a Valley, which was waste, and destitute of Inhabitants.  
On the 8 th'. we came to a very fair and commodious Caerawansera, built at the Charges of the Indian Traders, for the conveniency of their Caraevans: Here we intended to remain over night, but beginning to take our Rest, were alarmed upon a sudden assault of a great Troop of Robbers, who fell upon the Caravan on every side, and plundered all they came at, that was of any value and portable; and althô we had timely notice to defend our selus, yet they had got a considerable Booty, and made their escape without the loss of any Person or the lest damage. We therefore fearing that the encouragement and success they had met with might embolden them to make up a stronger Troop, and consequently our tarrying there might be very unsafe, it was unanimously concluded that we should break up, and being fair Wether, pursue our Journey by travailing the night, as we did, and about 12 a clock came to Tzanle, which is a beautiful Town, but not fortified, where it was thought fit that we should stay till the next morning: Tzanle is a Paradise in regard of its pleasant Situation; round about which is nothing to be seen, but Orchards, Gardens and Houses of Recreation. Here we supplied our selus with all necessaries & refreshments, which we had for a very mean price.  
On the 9th we found very bad travailing way and with great Difficulty, went over the Mountains of Trizetlu, out of which Mountains ariseth the River Carasu, and after it has encompassed many Mountains glides with a soft and gentle stream through the Valleys, till it finds the great Araxes, into which it disgorgeth its self with an incredible noise. Near the Village Samian is a very famous Bridge, 
A famous stone Bridge.  all of Stone, computed to be 450 Foot long, and withal very broad. This Bridge we passed over, and towards night came to Trabedar a Village seated in a pleasant Landship, where we took up our Nights-lodging, but not our Nights-rest, for we were horribly tormented with Fleas and Lice, that being (as in Scotland) the Countrey-Plague, 
Lice and Fleas.  which I presume comes from the Heat of the Cows-dung, that the Inhabitants dry and stow up in their Houses, to use for Fuel.  
The next day we broke up, and went through the Town Kelchera, which is about half an hours walking from Ardebil, where is the noble Mausoleum, or Sepulchre of Zide Tzaybrail, the Father of Scech Sephy. This Tzaybrail was in his life time a man of a mean and slender Fortune, as well in Substance as Parts, but Sedredin his Grandchild willing to make him coëqual with his Father in the Calendar, caused all his Bones to be gathered together and brought to this Shrine, which was erected to his perpetual Memory. The same Sedredin, also built that most sumptuous Meschaich, or Sepulchre within Ardebil, for Scech Sephy his Father. Certainly those Bones of his Grandfather must have been very emphatical and notedly eminent above all the Boors and Peasants Bones that had lay there a hundred years, that could now, almost reduced to Dust, be distinguished from the rest: otherwise, thrice happy were his Neighbours who had kept him company so long a time, for it was hard if some Joint or other was not canonised with the Anatomy of this Holy Tzerbail. However the Persians very devoutly pay their Devotions at this sacred Tomb, without much respect to the Matter. But in what manner those Bones appear I could not see, althô I was shorn after the Persian fashion, and in my conversation with Hadsi Byram my quondam Master, used more like a Companion than a Servant, much less as a Slave, and was in general looked upon as an upright Musulman. After we had rested a little at Kelcheran, we marched forward, and about 2 in the Afternoon came to Ardebil, 
Arrival at Ardebil.  where my Master Hadsi Byram took up his Lodging in a Street called Kumbalum, being a very fair and well-provided Inn.  
Ardebil, called also Ardevil, lies in 38 degr, and 50 min. in the Country of Adrilegizan, being seated in a round Plain, or Valley, environed on each side with very high Mountains, the greatest where of is called Zebelahu, and much talked of in Persia for its height. Those Mountains, as they told me, which lie to the Westward, are all the Summer covered with Snow; but on the other side, those that lie toward the Country of Kielan, the Air is more moderate and not altogether so cold. And by reason that these cold seasons do not come gradually a● when the Winter Solstice approaches, but casually, and all on a sudden so that there is no ordinal Vicissitude, nor can be any fast Calculation made, it renders the Place very unhealthy, especially to Strangers, who are not used to such sudden Changes. However, I would not be so far misconstred, as to signify that there is no sensible difference between the Summer and Winter, for the Course of the Sun makes a noted alteration, and yet the Summer Colds seemingly more penetrating than those in the Winter, for Now the Body is shut, and The● it is open, at what time they hold it more dangerous, but in the Approachment of the Winter more tolerable and better to be endured My Patron told me that some years before he took this Journey abou● April, taking with him 4 Slaves, whereof 3 were Strangers and unnacustomed to the aforesaid Changes, died in this Place, but the other which had been brought up there abouts, ailed nothing at all.  

Strange Whirlwinds.  But above all this are the Whirlwinds which come every day about noon very remarkable, being as constant as the Suns coming to South▪ or as the Tides that are regulated according to the Course of the Moon This said Wind always rises at 12 a clock, and continues somewhat more than an hour, during which time it is not safe to hold either Eyes or Mouth open, by reason of the Sand, which is hurried about with that Violence and Thickness that the Air is darkened; that very much annoy the Inhabitants, who are not only fain to keep within Doors all the while it continues, but must take care to cover all that may be damnifyed, and make every thing fast, which is light or apt to be carried away, and besides that 3 or four times a year bea● away all the sand and dust which lies about the Houses. By reason of this Cold, no Oranges, Lemons, nor the Useful Vine will take or like there, only Apples and Pears they have, which were but just ripe when we were there, and as they say have no Blossoms till May or June: but without the Mountains it is very warm; and affords good Plenty of the abovesaid Fruits. 
Good Wheat and Bread.  The arable Ground here is very fertile, except where it is suffocated with the Sand that the Whirlwinds bring about, and Wheat is both good and cheap, for having order from my Patron to buy some Bread, I had 12 Loaus, weighing each 4 ponds, for the Value of an [English] Shilling, and that very white and good Bread. 
A great Toll imposed upon Sheep.  In this part of the Country is also very good Pasturage, which is no small Profit to the Schach, or King, who has imposed a Toll of Four pence half penny for every Sheep, great and small, that passes the Bridge which by reason of the vast Flocks and great Inclination of the People to bring up cattle brings up yearly an incredible sum of Money. At that time when I was there, were Commissioners appointed by the King himself, althô 2 years before it was farmed out, and the King coming to understand what large Profits superabounded to the Farmers, thought good to bring that Remnant into his own Coffers, as a corollary. One of those said Commissioners, being an old Acquaintance of my Patron, told him that when they turned over the Accounts they had found Toll taken for above 700000 Sheep, between March and September, which amounts to more than 26000 lb. Sterl. which is considerable for the bare passage only; but far greater is the Toll which is imposed on every Sheep that is sold. Within the Jurisdiction of Ardebil lie 57 Villages and Hamlets, and those so close together, that the Town is easily supplied with plenty of Lactuaries, or what else the Land affords.  
Ardebil is a very great Town, but not close built, for every eminent House has a Garden or Orchard behind it. At this day it lies without Walls, Trenches and other Muniments. It is watered with one small Rivulet, which they call Baluchlu, taking its first spring from the Mountains of Scamaschu, about 6 miles to the Southward of Ardebil. Before the Town it divides its self into two Channels, the one running into the Town, and so forward till it finds the Carasu. This River is sometimes very small, especially in the Summer, but about March and April when it ordinarily reins very hard, with the Snow and concurrency of the Water that settles off from the Mountains, swells to an● incredible bigness. and overruns the Banks, so that against this time they usually make a Catarract, or Dam, which diverts it from the Town, and upon negligence, or want of due Repair of the same, the Town is in danger of being lost, as in the time of Schach Abas the great● the Dam being not sufficient, the Waters came with that suddenness from the Mountains, that it made an irruption and washed away a great part of the Town, the Houses being mostly built of Clay and a sort o● Brick. In this unexpected Innundation they record many Men and Cattle to have been carried away with the violence of the Floods. I● Ardebil are 5 Capital Streets, to wit, Derwansche, Tabar, Niardouve● Kumbolan and Keserkuste: all these were very stately and broad, being pla●ted with rows of Ash, Teil-or Linden-Trees which is very pleasant and cool in hot weather. Besides these 5 great Streets, are also many fai● ones, but narrower and not beplanted with Trees, whereof the chie● are, Bander chan, Kamankar, Degme Daglir, and Ursumi Mahele, famous (or to say more properly, infamous) for Whores, who have here their Residence, and ply all over the Town, and in the Carawanseras, and are reckoned as a Corporation or Gild. These are all Poetesses by Occupation, some Composing Eulogies and Hymns in the Praise of A● and Hosseyn, others do make Encomiums, setting out the Noble Deeds of the Scach, and others dance naked before the Chan. etc. These of all that ever I have seen in my Life are the most impudent, and sensual, for they perceiving me to be a Stranger, pestered me as I wen● along the Streets, and gave me work enough to keep their Hands ou● of my Codpiece. Moreover so sensual and beastly have I observed then to be by their Conversation with youngmen, who are not shy, or it the lest ashamed althô at noon day in the middle of the Street, that should not willingly use that immodesty to relate all I have seen. Ther● are also several Squares and Plains with Piazzas and Galleries round about, in and under which are very rich shops.  

The Place of Refuge.  They have also a Place of Refuge whither Malefactors betake themselves, at the Entrance whereof is an Oratory or Chapel, in which lie interred the Body of a reputed Saint. But the Delinquent fearing himself unsafe can easily gain the great Sanctuary of Scech Sephys Mescaich or Sepulchre whence the King himself should want the Heart to fetch him out by force. Coming from this Maydan or Sanctuary, you come to the Basar, or great Market-plain. 
The Market and Maydan.  On this Plain is reared a very magnificent and sumptuous Building, four square, in which, as in our Exchanges, are sold all manner of costly Wares and rich Merchandizes, as Cloth of Gold and Silver, Jewels, Precious Stones, Tapestry, Silks, etc. This Place they call the Kaysery. Behind this you find three Streets, almost arched over, in which there are many Shops stored with Wares of less value. The Carawanseras, or Inns, of Ardebil are very numerous, and those frequented each with a distinct sort of People, as Turks, Tartarians and Indians, who sojourn to and again, upon the account of Merchandise. In Ardebil are many fair Metzids, or Temples, whereof one they call Adine surpasses all the rest, being founded upon the Top of a Hill in the middle of the Town, and besides that graced with a pompous Tower, which outbraves all the rest in the City, rearing its Top aloft to an exceeding great Height. This Temple is thought worthy only to be visited on Fridays, which according to the Institution of Mahomet is their Sabbath; and from hence it has its name. Before this Temple is a Fountain brought by an Aqueduct from a Place about 5 [English] miles without the City, at the Charges of Muhamed Risa the Rochtaf, or Chancellor of Persia. The design thereof is that every one willing to visit the Holy Sepulchre must first wash himself there.   

CHAP. XXVIII. Hadzi Byram goes to perform his Religious Duties at the Sepulchre of Zeyde Tzebrail. The Author begs of his Lord, that he may be Spectator of the Ceremonies, which at last after many entreaties is granted. A Description of that noble Mausoleum. Famous Baths in Ardebil. The Sulphurous Baths whither the Author accompanies his Patron. The manner of using those Baths. The stupendious and sumptuous Sepulchre of Scach Sephy described. The great Zeal and Devotion of Hadzi Byram. The Oratory, or House of Prayer, where (as they say) Schach Sephy prayed and fasted for 40 Days together without Intermission, using only a Cup of Water every day. Doors covered with Plates of Gold by Schach Abas. The Library and Repository of the Utensils for the King's Table. The Garden or Yard where the Persian Kings lie interred. The names of the 12 Kings that lie there buried. The Revenues belonging to this Mesar, or sepulchre. Some fast Revenues. Ardebil a famous Mart.  
UPon the 13 my Patron Hadzi Byram, who was a very zealous devout Mahometan, went to perform his Devotion at the H. Sepulchre of Zide Tzaybrail, in Kelcheran, having first well provided himself with Fasting and the Bath. I prayed him also that he would please to take me with him, but he positiuly refused, save of this Answer he gave me, John, if you will indeed become a Musulman I am freer you should go, than stay behind, but it is not lawful to bring a Christian thither to pollute that most Holy spot of Ground. O Sir, replied I, why cannot I wash myself as clean as a Musulman? and why should it be thought that I pollute the Place, since I leave nothing at all behind me but what I find there? All this would not prevail with him, but rather seemed to incite him to anger, so that being unwilling to purchase his displeasure to pamper myself with such an unprofitable curiosity, I thought fit for that time to desist. But the next morning finding him in a pleasant humour I renewed my request and he assented, though conditionally, as, First, to keep silence all the time, since I was not perfect in the Dialect, and so might come to be discovered; Secondly, not to stare any Person fully in the Face; and Thirdly, to act for Changeling in case any Body came to question me, Fools and Madmen being with them reputed Holies, for they are of Opinion that all men have an equal understanding, and that those, who are either Mad or Foolish employ the rest of their Senses in a Divine and Celestial Contemplation, or Converse with Angels.  

A Description of the Sepulchre of Zide Tzaybril.  The Grave or Tomb stood in the midst of a spacious Court, and built round; above all was a round Tower, which was covered with Blue and Green Stone glazed, which made a most gorgeous show. It was razed high, so that we must ascend 10 steps before we enter. Being come to the Threshold my Patron made there certain Prayers, that done he gave the Sign that he would be in, upon which one of the Hafisans, or Waiters came out, who demanded of him his Sable and Boots, and of me my Truncheon, which he shut up in a little Chamber: my Patron then having given him a piece of money in the Hand, and so we both went in barefoot. The Floor was all laid with Tapestry, the Roof and Walls were painted Blue, illustrated here and there with Flowers of Gold, which made it look with a great splendour; the Glass in the Windows was of divers colours like as in old Christian Churches, and I presume done by the same Art, which some will needs say is lost. On the sides were several little Chambers and Apartments, which always stand open. Here sit several Doctors, who are to instruct Youth in the Koran, as also to read and to sing, that so they may be fit to serve in that holy Function, and administer at the sacred Tomb. Here and there were several Chairs whereon lay some pieces of the Koran. In the Middle of all stood the said Tomb, being about a Man's height raised above ground, 6 Foot long, and proportionably broad. It was of pure Gold and laid in with Flowers and Foliage of Silver, which was very artificially done. Above the Tomb under a Canopy of Blue Silk hung 4 Lamps, 2 of Gold, and 2 of Silver, which every night are lighted by certain Attendants which they call Tzirachtschikan. When my Patron approached to the Grave the Waiters took off the Covering, which was of green Velvet, upon which after he had mumpled over certain Prayers bowed himself, pushed with his head against the Tomb, kissed it, and so stepping backwards, was met at the door by one of the Hafisans who gave him the Benediction, and so dismissed him. When he was come to the Carawansera, concluded this Devotion with a sumptuous and an Epicurean Banquet, with Drinking, Dancing and Whoring, so that it may easily be perceived that the extreme and furthest Hope they have, who are the greatest Zelots in Turcism is only for libidinous Enjoyments, and to obtain their fill of voluptuous Pleasures and sensual Delights in the World to come, as by an implicit Faith they are induced to believe.  
In Ardebil are many excellent Hotbaths, which bring in no small profit to the Owners; my Master also made frequent use of the same, as well out of a superstitious Zeal, as for conservation of Health. But about 3 [Dutch] miles without Ardebil are certain Hot wells, proceeding from a sulphurous quality of the Earth; These are exceeding hot, and may not be touched; so that round about are several Baths and Fountains which are tempered with the hot water being conveyed thither in Pipes and Conduits. These Baths so tempered are reputed very good against the Itch, Biles, and other external Grievances and Sores, and as some have found useful against internal Distempers, as was advised my Patron by a Doctor at Scamachy to make use of it for a weakness in his joints.  
On the 16 my Master set out to go to these Baths and asked me to go with him, bidding me take a Horse, so that I was as well mounted as he himself: he took with him 3 Slaves with an Ass to carry clean Linen, Meat, and Wine, with other Refreshments. A little before we came at those Wells, we smelled a strong smell of Brimstone, and heard the Water bubble up and boil. We saw also smoke and vapours that rose in many places from the Water, which made me very faint. The chiefest of those Wells is called Grandausch, but this my Master thought not fit for him to use, but went to another called Serdebe, which nevertheless is reputed the best Water, and was therefore roofed over with a stately Arch, at the Charges of the Grand Chancellor Tzulpharachan. Among the Slaves that my Patron had was an old Greek, for whom he had a great kindness, and used him more like a Brother than a Servant. So soon as he was unclothed this Greek rubbed his Body with a Towel, till he was all over red, than he stepped into the Bath, where for some time he sat to the neck in Water, and then coming out dried himself, took a draught of very strong Wine, and away again into the Bath, which having done 2 or 3 times together he clothed himself and road away to a Carawansera, where the Day before he had bespoke a warm Bed, in which he lay him down and stayed over night. The next day betimes in the Morning we road back to Ardebil, where he kept his Bed for some days following.  

Description of the famous sepulchre of Scach Sephy at Ardebil.  On the 20 th'. I went with my Patron to see the most noble Sepulchre of Schach Sephy. My said Patron also prepared himself for this, as he did to visit the other at Kelcheran, by Fasting and Prayer. This famous Mausoleum erected to the memory of Scach Sephy, and now the Burying Place of other Persian Kings lies near the Maydan. Before this pompous Sepulchre stands a fair Gate of rich Marble, in which is shown an Admirable Skill in Architecture. Within this Port or Gate hang two Massy Silver Chains athwart each other like Festons: those they say were bestowed on this Place by the Chan of Meggura, for a Monument of his Zeal. Having entered this Gate we came into a fair and spacious Court all paved with square Stones and polished Porphyr; round about on each side were Arches, as Piazzas, under which were shops of all sorts of Haberdashery Wares and Toys. After this we went through another Gate far more beautiful than the former, and within this was a fair Garden, and indeed one of the fairest I had hitherto seen; It was planted with all manner of Flowers and Herbs that might delight the Eye and Nose, and all kinds of delicious Fruits to serve the Palat. Every Man has his freedom to walk and recreate himself, but upon a very strict penalty not to pluck either Flower or Fruit. I was told how that 5 years before my being there, a drunken Persian had hewn down a great bough with his Scymiter, but being taken was immediately beheaded with the same Weapon. In this Gate hung also another great Silver Chain, which was given by the Chan of Kentzay. Here they demanded our Weapons, which being delivered, my Patron went forward to another Gate, which entering he fell down and kissed the Threshold, withal charging me not to touch it with my Feet, lest I should pollute that which many thought worthy a long Pilgrimage to come and kiss: he told me also that it was a favour greater than ordinary, that I being a blind ignorant Christian and an Infidel should be admitted to pry into so glorious a Sanctuary. I was heartily content to obey his Will, rather than to deny my Curiosity, and followed him close at the Heels, lest coming into some Labrynth I should lose my Life by the Loss of my Master. The next Place we came into was a stately Gallery, or rather an Antichamber, arched cross wise, and neatly plastered. On the right hand as I went in was a great Silver Cock which ran with Water that was conveyed thither by leaden Pipes from a fair Fountain about 4 [English] miles without Town. Right over against this is another Apartment paved with green and blue glazed stones: and on the Floor was spread a very rich Carpet: in the middle stood two huge Silver Candlesticks about 8 or 9 Foot high; round about were Seats as in our Chores, wherein sat several Priests all in white Stoles, who sung all the time, keeping good Harmony, and at the End of every Versicle bowed all alike, one to another. This Place is called Tzichillachane, the Chapel or Oratory of the King; so called by reason of the 40 days, which the Persians affirm that Scach Sephy spent here at one time, in Fasting and Prayer, not using any thing all that time, save only a Cup of Water once a day. Leaving this place we went into another Gate where a Silver Chain hung, that was presented by Aly Chan. The Parlour, or Hall into which we now came was all paved and laid in with a splecked Stone; The Building its self was round, like a Theatre; the Doors were laid over with Silver Plates and had two great Silver Rings like Wreaths▪ or Torses. At the Entrance lay a costly and large Carpet, where we were to pull off our Boots, without which, none is admitted to go in, no not the King himself, who sometimes to be a Praecedent and Example of Zeal, pulls off his Boots at the first Gate, but that, 〈◊〉 seems, is held to be a Work of Supererogation. From hence we wen● to another Magnificent Hall, through a Gallery, the Pavement where of was covered with rich Tapestry. The Doors of this said Hall we● covered with Plates of Gold, which was done at the Charges of the Schach Abas, who had made a vow to do it, in case he returned hom● with Triumph, when he went on an Expedition against the Vsbequ● in Chorasan, as he did, and vanquished the Rebels. This Hall is n● so spacious as beautiful by far, the Roof being no more than 48 Foo● long, and 30 broad. In the middle hung several Gold and Silver Lamp● and on each side sat 12 Priests, each having a low Stool before him on which lay so many Parchment Books, containing several Legend of the Koran, which they read and sung by Turns. Leavin● this Place we went into another which was separated and environe● with Silver Rails, and had 3 Ascents or Steps to go up of solid Silve● This is the last and chief Oratory, or House of Prayer, where o● Patron prayed with very great Zeal. From hence we ascended into another Place, which was one Step higher, and separated with mas● Grate-work all of pure Gold and wreathed, behind this was t● Tomb of Schach Sephy, which was of fair Marble, being about 3 Fo● high, 9 Foot long and 4 broad. It was covered with a Carpet 〈◊〉 Crimson Velvet, richly embroidered and laid in with precio● Stones. Above hung several Lamps, and on each side 2 huge Candle sticks, all of solid Gold: these are lighted every Evening and bu● all the Night long. The Door of this Place is opened for no Secule or Temporal Person or Personage, nor for the King himself. Ne● this Tomb we saw also the Tombs of Schach Ismaël, of Sephys, an● of some Queens, all which were only supplied with Curtains, an● void of curious Work and Ornament. Leaving the Sepulchre w● went out at a door on the Right Hand, that led into the Libra● which was very spacious, yet without any Pillar. Here are kept all the Ancient Records of Persia, with abundance of Manuscripts in the Chaldean, Persian, Arabic and Syrian Tongues, the Books were piled up one above another and most of them adorned with Gold and Silver; whence I concluded that they were more for show, than for daily use and recourse. In this said Library were several less Apartments, where were many Porceline Dishes, Cups and other Utensils, for the Kitchen and Table, which are used when the King or any other great Personage comes to Eat there, whereas they say it is not consistent with the Humility they profess, to be served in Gold or Silver: the more because that the great Schach Sephy himself did eat altogether out of Wooden Dishes. From hence we went out and came into the Kitchen, the Doors whereof were covered with Silver Leavs by the aforesaid Schach Abas, and the Room within very neat and handsome. The Cooks were all the time very still and quiet, as if it were some Religious Duty they were about, and each one according to his Office had a place allotted him, to wit, those that roasted and those that boiled, baked, fried, stewed, etc. each by themselves. The Cauldrons were set fast in the Walls, and the Water they used was brought some Miles by an Aqueduct, and let in by Silver Cocks. In this Kitchen is provided Victuals for more than a Thousand People, one day with another, to wit, Priests, Pilgrims, and other Poor People which have here their Maintenance. They eat three times a day, at 6 in the Morning, at 10 before, and 3 in the afternoon. The two first Meals were given by Schach Sephy, and the last at the Charges of the present King. Before the Meals do begin, they beat 2 Kettledrums, which they say their great Prophet Mahomet made use of when he was in the Camp, and were brought from Medina by Schach Sedredin. They have not much variety in their Diet, and use mostly Rice and Mutton, which is distributed very liberally to all the Appendents, who seldom come short but leave of their Commons.  
Coming out of this famous Kitchen, we went into a large Court where were interred 12 Persian Kings, to wit, 

1 Schach Sephy, the Son of Tzaybraïl.  
2— Sedredin the Son of Sephy.  
3— Tzinid the Son of Sedredin.  
4 Sultan Aider the Son of Tzinid. Whose Skin the Turks dre● over his Head, whilst alive.  
5 Schach Aider, the Second.  
6— Ismaël, the Son of Aider.  
7— Tamas, the Son of Ismaël.  
8— Ismaël the Second, Son of Tamas.  
9— Muhamed Choddabende, Brother of Ismaël.  
10— Ismaël Myrsa, Sons of Choddabende.  
11— Hemse Myrsa, Sons of Choddabende.  
12— Abas. Sons of Choddabende.   This noble Mausoleum or Place of Sepulture was erected by a ver● famous Architect of Medina, with whom Schach Sedredin covenate● to build it. The Persians say that he had the Model out of Heave● Above the Door stand these words in their manner of Rhyming which jingles better than in English: Whosoever is of a pure Heart 〈◊〉 him enter in and pray to GOD, so shall his Sins undoubtedly be pardoned. The fir● Part which the said Sedredin had built was very magnificent a● stately, but that which was added to it by Tzinid appears far mo● splendid, both in regard of the curious Architecture, in which A● seems to sport, and in the Conveniency, and Prospect from afar.  

Revenues of the Sepulchre.  The Revenues of this Sepulchre are very great, what with t● large Gifts which were given by the famous Sedredin at the Inauguration thereof, and what by the Ample Donations that have be● liberally bestowed by other Kings and Princes from time to time sin● its first Foundation, not only of the Persians themselves, but al● of Indians, Tartars and others that are of the Sect of Aly: which commonly done upon Sickness, Expedition of War, Dangero● Journeys, and the like, upon which they make Vows to beauty this Holy Structure with some signal Ornament, or put somthi● into the treasury. There are also other Revenues accrueing to th● Place, bequeathed by Testament, as if it were Remitted by Bills 〈◊〉 Exchange to the Souls of the Departed, for they reckon, that su● Gifts will redound to the welfar of their Souls. Nor do such Don●tions solely consist in Money, but in Cattle, Utensils, Movables an● Merchandise. The Cattle so bestowed is committed to Herdsm● for that end employed, and improved, except such as is fit for Slaughter, other Things are sold and the Money thrown into the Tresu● The Pilgrims that Offer any thing here, be it more or less have a Maniple of Consecrated anise given them, together with a Certificate, that they have visited and offered at this Holy Place. This Ticket or Schedule they call Syaretname, which is kept and shown by the Party, upon Occasion, who is thereby capable to serve the King in certain Offices suitable to the Value of what he offered: althô the Commissioners sometimes willing to favour any indigent Person, have the Opportunity to raise their Fortunes by granting them such a Billet, or setting a greater Value upon upon the Offering; so that there is Cheating as well in those Sacred Functions, as in Temporal Negotiations.  
The fast Revenues of this Meschair that are settled in the Town of Ardevil, is the Rent of 200 Dwelling Houses, 9 haman's, 
The fast Revenues of the Sepulchre.  or Hotbaths, 8 Carawanseras, the Maydan, with all the Buildings and Shops round about; as also the Kaysery, or Exchange, 100 Shops in the Basar. The Toll and Impositions of all Merchandises whatever. Of the 57 Villages that are within the Jurisdiction of Ardebil. 33 accrue to this Sanctuary, and 5 in the Province of Serab. In the City Tabris it hath 100 Dwelling-Houses, and the like number of the most eminent Shops in all the Town, and 2 Villages within the Jurisdiction of the same. In Caswin are several Carawanseras and Baths, as also in Kilan, Astrarath, and Mokan, besides many other Revenues that are settled upon it in divers Provinces, which could I have given an account of, would fall too tedious, and tyre the Patience of my Reader; so that it's probable that this incredible Treasure, which from time to time is accumulated, upon this (reputed) Sanctuary must needs exceed the Royal treasury itself, and has always more ready Money gathered so from a superstitious Zeal, than the King is able to levy and parallel with all the Impositions within his Realm and Dominions.  
Besides this famous and most pompous Royal Sepulchre; Ardebil flourishes mainly in Traffic and Merchandise, for hither throng all the Traders of Gistan, Georgia, Kurdistan and other Country's; Besides the Profit that the Citizens do receive from the continual concourse of strangers and Pilgrims from Places both near and remote. It is also a great Thoroughfare from the Northern Regions to ●spaban and receivs a considerable Benefit of Caravans and Passengers, who commonly stay here some time. Twice a week is their Market, at what time abundance of Peasants come to Town; using Oxen and Kine instead of Sumpter-horses to carry their Goods. Lastly this City is very famous in regard of its Antiquity, being in times past the Royal Seat of Persia, as it was before the Wars of Alexander of Macedonia, who had here his Residence, as they aver and prove by many undeniable Tokens, besides the Language of their Records, which if we may take upon Credit [as why not] do sufficiently testify it.   

CHAP. XXIX. The Author taken for a Persian, which gave him occasion to see all that was worthy of remark. The Caravan leavs Ardebil, and goes over the famous Mountain Taurus. The Head of the River Kisiloseyn. Bad and uneasy Travelling by reason of steep Rocks. Peril of Robbers. Arrival at Sultanie. Keydar Peyamber, a wonderful high Mountain. Sultanie it's Situation and by whom built. Emarath, the Noble Palace of King Choddahende. The Temple of Schach Ismaël. The present decaying State of sultany. The Author shorn and habituated after the Persian Manner. Pleasant Dales and Valleys. Arrival at Cas●in. The Situation of that Place. The Court of Schach Tamas. The Place of Convention or Exchange of Whores. The Common Place of Sepulture and Metzid of Scach Beslade, the Son of Hosseyn, by which the Persians swear. The Offering of a Camel.  
FOurteen Days we stayed in Ardebil, during which time I had leisure to see what was worthy of Remark, and Opportunity besides, being apparelled like a Persian so that none disinherited me to be a Musulman, but allowed me access over all. When these 14 days were expired, the Caravan made preparation to break up, and pursue the Journey for Ispahan, for which end many fresh Camels and Horses were taken in. When the Caravan was ready, we observed that the Company was considerably increased with new Passengers and Merchants.  
On the 25 by sound of Trumpet all was warned to join themselves with the Caravan, that intended for ispahan; and accordingly left Ardebil and came to Busun which lies about 14 Miles from Ardebil, where we stayed that night.  
The day following we broke up, and had that day a very rocky and uneasy Way, insomuch that most, or all, alighted from their Horses and Camels and went a foot. By the way we met several Troops of Robbers, who probably had understood what a Prey and Purchase we had, yet finding the Caravan so very numerous durst not assail us. At night we came to Sengoa a beautiful Village, where we had very good Wine, and made our selus merry, but not to excess, for that is in general odious to the Persians. Here I saw the best Beauties and most comely Faces that I have seen in all Persia: their Women seem to have a greater Liberty than in most places, where they do not only go covered abroad, but are also denied the converse with Men; for here they go bare with their Face, and are very familiar with those of the Masculine Gender, and if I be not mistaken were too familiar with some, who within a few days after began to scratch their Heads, and this is the first time I knew that the Persian Women understood French. In sum, our Company enjoyed themselves here so contentedly and well, that some of'em thought the Sun had mistaken himself and was risen an hour too soon.  
The day following leaving Sengoa, we had high and rocky way, but towards the Evening came into a most sweet and pleasant Dale or Plain, through which a River glided very swiftly. This Valley was very pleasant, and notwithstanding the season, appeared as if it were in May. This River is called Kis●loseyn, having a very fair Stone Bridge over it, over which we passed and pitched on the South side, in the open Field, for there were no Houses to be seen.  
On the 28 th'. we broke up and went over the famous Taurus, being a very rough and dangerous way, insomuch that all the Company were fain to alight and lead their Camels and Horses, till we came into a Valley where we took our Rest for an Hour, or two. This Valley is very deep and a Nest of Robbers and Vagabonds, who find many lurking Places to hide themselves in, out of which they assail and surprise Travellers, if they think themselves strong enough: but we, as was said before, being increased to a considerable Number knew our selus sufficiently out of peril. Out of this Valley ariseth the River Kisiloseyn, which running very swiftly and beating thorough the Rocks makes a very hideous Murmur, so that one cannot hear another speak: thus receiving as it were enlargement runs through the Champain Country of K●lan, and thence is hurried with an admirable celerity into the Caspian Lake, into which it empties itself. On the Banks of this River is a Village bearing the same name, where is a fair Stone Bridge of 9 Arches, or Bows. All along the Way side grow great plenty of Almond, Cypress and other Trees, which served us all the way in stead of Parasols: but when we were come over the River found the Way very bad, being forced to clamber over Rocks, the Path being so narrow that only one Camel at once could go on it. On each side were many great Clefts and deep Caves, which with the rattling of the Horses feet made a dreadful and horrid Echo; and being come to a place which was the fullest of those Caverns, all the Company gave a Shout, which with an Echo resounded from one Place to another, that it seemed as if there had been 10 or 12 Troops of Men in so many several Places calling to one another. On this way it happened that a Camel broke the Leathers wherewith his Pack was fastened to the Crutchet or Saddle, being just at the Brink of a wide and deep Pit, where no Bottom could be seen. It cost the Slaves who attended him much labour to save him, and were in struggling once in great hazard themselves of tumbling down, Camel and all, yet at last, with loss of the Pack which in spite of all they could do fallen down, they got clear. The Pack was very rich, and the loss thereof so concerning to the Merchant, that if others had not hindered him he had thrown the Slaves after it, for their Negligence. This ill way much detarded us on this Days Journey, for we were more than 5 Hours in travailing one Mile. Being got over this bad way we found a Village where it was designed that we should take our night's rest; The name of the Town was Keyntze, being very poor and not in a Condition to supply us with such Necessaries as we desired for our Money.  
On the 29 we broke up, and had that day very good way, coming at night to the village Hortzimur, where we were very ill at ease being cold Wether and the Place not able to supply us with Houseroom.  
The next day leaving Hortzimur we travailed through a very dry and barren Heath, meeting by the way with some Robbers, who being but few in number durst not make any attempt upon us: However night coming upon us here, we were fain to set down on the Heath, and for fear of Robbers forced to watch all night, but were so benumbed with cold that we many times wished for break of day.  
On the first of the next Month we came into a little City called Senkan, which is reputed the best Refreshing place between Derbent and Ispahan, there being plenty of Oranges, Lemons, Pomegranates, Melons, divers sorts of huge Grapes and many other Fruits then out of season. Veal and Mutton was here very cheap, as also Bread. Thus finding Provision here very cheap, we bought what we thought necessary. As for the City itself there is not much worthy of Remark about it, save only a very fair and beautiful Metzid. It is situated in a Plain, and a flat Ground, but near the Town very barren and dry. It has been formerly a great Emporium, and flourished more than 4 Centuries of years in Traffic and Commerce with the circumjacent Countries, but since it was demolished by the great Tamerlan, is so run to decay, that it is out of Hopes, ever to arrive to its pristin State.  
On the 2 of Decemb. we set forward and came in good time to Sultanie, a City lying in 36 degr. and 30 min. Northerly Latitude. It is situated between two rows of very steep Mountains, and toward the West we saw the Mountain Keydar Peyamber, whose lofty top seems to support the Heavens, this being, next to Ararat, the highest Mountain I have ever seen. The City Sultany affords a most noble Prospect from abroad, by reason of her many lofty Piles, magnificent Churches, high Towers, Pyramids, Obelisks and Cylinders which still remain, notwithstanding the furious Irruption of the savage Tartars under conduct of the valiant Tamerlan, who with many other Towns, laid this level with the Ground, save the great and stupendious Fabrics, even now remembered, which when one is within Town, look like a set of Ninepins, or the Stones on Salisbury Plain: so that this which was reputed one of the Royal Cities is meaner than most villages. It was built by Sultan Choddabende a very rich and potent Prince, who besides many famous Conquests in Persia and Usbec, subdued the greatest part of Turkey, and many Indian Kingdoms and Provinces, some of which still remain under the subjection of the Schach of Persia. This City he called Sultanie from the 
* As Caesarea from Caesar.  Honorary Title of Sultan, for so the Kings of Persia who are now called Schach were of old entitled, as also at present the Ottoman Emperor. Notwithstanding the abovesaid devastation of this City appear yet many signal Monuments of its former Glory; amongst which is the splendid Court and Palace of the great Choddabende, 
DEC. 1671.  called, The Emarath This was fortified on each side with strong Walls and several grea● Bulwarks, altogether built of huge square Stones of 3 Foot Diameter it had also 4 high Towers, but strong and of neat Workmanship Within is a very noble Sepulchre built by Sultan Choddabende himself who lay here interred, but the too great Piety of his Successor woul● not suffer his Bones to rest, but removed them to the Meschaich● Ardebil. In entering this Sepulchre one must pass through three very hig● Gates all made of Indian Steel, very neatly polished, and as smoot● as Glass, this being the same Metal of which the Damaskin, or Ard●bil Scymiters are made, and is praeferred before any other St● that is used. That Gate which leads out to the Maydan (as the Persian would persuade themselves and us) cannot be opened by any Force, bu● when one prays to GOD, for the sake of his Servant Aly, that may open, it opens of its self. The Building is very high, contracting its self at top into the manner of a Tower, and within is set wit● white and blue Tiles of Porceline. Above, where it begins to dra● its self into the form of a Tower, is a Partition of Steel Barrs, whic● makes a handsome Chore. In this Partition or Choir I saw many Books, written in Arabic Characters, some whereof were above 30 Inches long, I opened one of them and found an interlineary change o● Gold and Black lines, like the Rubrics in the Roman Breviaries, Liturgies and Mass books. Behind the Altar is the Tomb where Sultry Muhamed Choddabende lay interred but parted from the Body of th● Chore with great and massy Barrs of Indian Steel, which the Persian say was all of one piece, no place appearing where it might seem t● be welled, or set together, and that it was seven years a making i● India. In this said Emarath are 20 pieces of Brass Ordnance, every Carridge having 4 wheels a piece, and the Balls lying by them o● white Marble, these are made (forsooth) for defence of the H. Sepulchre. The Tower above is 8 square, and on each side a Gallery, an● upon each Gallery a small Turret going up with Winding-stairs Before this Temple is a Fountain, the curious Work whereof show● the great skill and dexterity of the Workman that ordained it: it receives its Water by an Aqueduct from the Keydar: and behind the Emarath is a very pleasant Garden, with Walks and Rows of dive● sorts of Trees.  
Besides this illustrious Pile of Sultan Choddabende is another built by Schach Ishmael the first. This is also to be ascended by stairs. Within are seen many fair Pillars and Arches upon which the Roof leans, 
The Temple of ismael Sultan.  and the inside of the Walls is all laid with white and blue Tiles of Porceline. Right before the Door within the first Court stands a fair Pyramid of a reasonable Height. There is also a very fair Plesure-garden adjoining to this Palace. Not far from thence is also a fair Arch, but something dilapidated resting upon 2 Columns, or Obelisks, 162 Foot 
* 
Which is just 13 Foot lower than the Monunument lately erected near London Bridge, in memory of the sad Conflagration in the year 1666.  
The Author shorn after the Persian manner.   high. About an [English] Mile and a half without Town are to be seen the Relics of a Gate, which they say was built by Sultan Choddabende, whence it appears that the Extent of this City has been very great, althô, as was said is now not very great, nor much frequented by Trading People, subsisting mostly by the Caravans, after which they long as greedily as a Landlord for Quarter day.  
Five days we tarried in Sultante to rest, having almost tired our Camels and Horses, which by that time were again in a travailing Condition: During our abode here I was shorn after the Persian fashion, and could pass Muster for a Musulman, and with more freedom visit what was worthy of remark and by them reputed sacred; being thereto persuaded by my Companion who was a Russ, called Ferrath, and that I might not be bewrayed by my speech, he bade me counterfeit myself dumb, and when occasion served to make signs, he taking upon him to interpret for me, which at once both secured me from Affronts, and gave me the occasion to see their Sanctuaries, which was refused many Georgians, notwithstanding considerable Sums they had proffered to see the Sepulchers.  
On the 7 th'. we set out and came at night to Syllebek where we took up our Nights-lodging, having this day very good way and with all pleasant, for on each side were fair Meadows, Pasture and Cornfields, and by the way many neat villages with Orchards, Gardens and Summer-Houses: which made the Time seem short and the Journey no way tedious.  
Leaving Syllebek we came the next day at night to Choramdeky which for its many Gardens seems to be a Paradise. 
Charamdeki●  It is also watered with a good River which glides through the Town, and by a Serpentine course through the Fields round about the City renders the Earth more fertile and of a very good soil, insomuch that this is one of the most delightful places we had hitherto seen. The People conformable to the place they inhabit gave us great Satisfaction, and we● very sociable and friendly to converse withal.  

Caswin described.  On the Ninth we set forward again, and came at night to th● City Caswin, which is a Town of no small repute. It is situated in 3 degr. 15 min. Northerly Latitude, lying in the Country of Er● upon a level, but dry and sandy ground, having on the West th● Mountains of Elwind which reach as far as Babylon, or Bagdet, as is now called. This City is about 6 English Miles in circuit, and h● been formerly the Residence of the King and Court of Persia: b● since the same was translated to Ispahan, it has continually run to decay, and daily loses its glory. The Walls and Fortifications whic● seem to have been very strong, lie buried in their Rubbish and unrepaired, for that this City lies far within the Persian Dominions an● dreads not any sudden Irruption as those that lie on the Confines a● ever fearful of, and therefore either without any Fortifications at al● to the end they may not prove a Check, if once invested and take in by the Enemy, or else so strongly munited that they may res● a durable Siege: and another reason why the City Caswin fears n● Foreign Invasion is the Strength of the Inhabitants, who are ● numerous that upon occasion they can make up a mighty Army. Th● Houses are, as most other Towns in Persia, mostly built of Bri● which is only hardened in the Sun: so that without they appear wit● no Statelyness or Magnificency, but within neatly painted with Compartments and Foliage. The Streets are not paved as in other Places so that when it is windy they are not passable, for the Dust that fli● about, which besides the aptness it has to hurt one's Eyes, is no sma● annoyance to those who are apparelled in a gay Garb.  

The Palace of Schach Tamas.  In this City Schach Tamas kept his Court as also his Son Ismaël who built that Magnificent Palace before the Maydan, which stil● remains as a lasting monument of that puissant Monarch, and th● Footsteps of a glorious Court, which, had not the Unthankfullnes● of the Inhabitants been so great, might have been there till this Da● The Gates are very high and stately, the Roof and Walls within an● all laid with Tiles of Porceline, and some of them embellished wit● Flowers of Gold, which are annealed or burned in, as the Chineezes do from whom I presume they have that Art. Within the Chamber and the several Apartments are divers curious carved works altogether Foliage, Flowers and the like. Right over against this Palace is a fair Garden or Paradise, almost 2 [English] Miles in circuit, planted with many Fruit-trees as Citrons, Pomegranates, Apples, Pears, Peaches, Apricocks, etc. And on the outside round about pleasant Walks of Cedars and Cypress trees. In this City are 2 Maydans. On the one stands a Magnificent Hall, full of Shops, wherein are to be sold Jewels and many other things of value. 
The Exchange of Whores.  Near this Exchange is a place where they deal altogether in Living Jewels, which are there to be had at as mean a Price as a Lurcher or Shock upon the Dog-market at Amsterdam; these being such Jewels as we commonly call Girls of the Game, Misses, or Cracks, and I know not what canting names they have now a days for such unnatural and sensual Prostitutes: The Persians call them Cabbaha. About Sunset these are all brought out and set in a row by an old Woman they call Delal who officiates as a Broker. Behind these young Females stand a parcel of old Women who have by them a Bolster, a Quilt, a Coverlet, and a little Lantern in the Hand, all Implements for the purpose. Now so soon as any one comes to view the Merchandise, these old Punks light the Candle, unveil the Face, and so going from one to another till he finds one he likes and then strikes a Bargain; which done one of the old Women follows him with the Movables on her Shoulder whithersoever he pleases, and all with as little shamefacedness as if it were the most honourable Merchandise in the World.  
On the East side of the City is the Common place of Sepulture: where also lies interred the Body of Schach Besade, the Son of Hosseyn. By whose Tomb the Persians swear, holding it for a most sacred Oath, and consequently very heinous to violate: and when one desires another to asseverate a matter will ask him, If he dare swear by the Holy Grave. In Caswin are 50 Churches which stand open every day, and are frequented by those that go to pray, but the great Metzid, or Temple, which they call Tzame, is open one day in Four, when there is always a great Convent. They have also many Baths in Caswin, which are frequented from morning to night.  
On the 9 th'. dito was their Easter at Caswin, which they call Bairam, 
The Feast of Bairam.  or Biram deal Carban, which is only a commemoration of Abraham's Offering, who as they say would have offered up his Son Ishmaël, from whom they say Mahomet is descended by a direct line: alleging that it was not Isaac, as the Christians and Jews believe; and further that it was not a Ram that was offered in his stead, but a She-camel. Wherefore they always lead a Camel through the streets for 3 days together before this Feast, adorning it with Garlands of Leavs and Flowers, if there be any to be had, and on the Festival slay it, with many Ceremonies. First comes the Mulla, who is one skilled in the Law, and reads certain Passages out of the Koran, when he is silent they play upon Trumpets, Flutes and Drums. In the mean while the Common-People run and crowd in to the Camel, to get some of the Hair, every one pulling as much as he can, which is kept for Relics, and reputed good for Women in Childbed who cannot easily be delivered; insomuch that the Beast is almost bare before he come to be Offered. When they have led him 3 days about Town he is brought out of the City to a place thereto appointed, where all the greatest Personages are present and immediately make a Ring. The Beast being brought in, one of the most eminent Persons runs him through with a Spear, upon which all the People run with Hatchets, Bills, and Knives striving every one to get a piece, which they carry home, some boiling it, and other preserving it till the year after, reckoning it a certain and sure token of Happiness to that House, where there is but a small Morsel of this Camel. Those who are slow or impotent must be content with the Entrails, Skin, and Blood, which they gather up so clean, that nothing of it appears upon the Place where the Sacrifice is done. The whole night continues this Feast with Music, Drinking and Banqueting.   

CHAP. XXX. Departure from Caswin. Arrival at Saba, and an account of the Condition of that Town. The Earth red and barren by the Curse of Mahomet. They arrive at Kom, with a Description of that Place. Melons of a very fragrant and lovely smell. A strange kind of Cucumbers. Khom the Staple for Weapons. The People addicted to Thievery. The Author's combat with a Greek Renegado. Departure out of Khom. Arrival at Kaschan. It's Situation. The People, and their way of Living and Negotiation. Noble Carawanseras, or Houses of Entertainment. Many Gold-and Silk-Cloth Weevers. A sort of great and venomous Scorpion and a kind of fell Spiders, which are a powerful Poison, with the strange manner of Cure for the same. Their Arrival at Natens. A Falcon fights and conquers an Eagle.  
EIght days long stayed we in Caswin and departed thence on the 17 of December coming at night to the Village Membere, 
DEC. 1671.  where all the Houses are built round, so that at a distance they appeared like so many Pigeon-Cotes. The Town its self is well stored with Necessaries, and afforded us what we had occasion for.  
On the 18 we came to the Village Areseng, which is situated in a very pleasant Country and withal fertile, affoarding good store of Fruit, as Pomegranates, Oranges, Lemons and other Summer Fruits then out of season. Here we thought good to take up our Night's Lodging.  
On the 19 we betook our selus to our Journey, and that day travailed about 24 [English] Miles, over a high, but level way, coming towards night to the great Carawansera called Choskeru. This is a very commodious and large Inn, built altogether of square stones, within is a spacious Court where was a Fountain of very good Water: the Rooms and Apartments were no less commodious. On the Walls I found several Dutch, Polish and Russian Names, and also wrote my own.  
On the 20 we had a very pleasant days Journey through a delightful Landship; very close inhabited and full of Villages and Hamlets coming at night to a Carawansera, where we took up our Lodging for that night, and the next day set forward for Saba, 
Arrival at Saba.  which is a City lying in 34 degr. and 56 min. in a plain Field having on the West the Mountains of Elivend, which for their exceeding height may be seen many Miles distant. Saba is far less than Caswin, but is munited with a Brick Wall, which Bricks are not burned, as ours, but only hardened with the Sun. Within the City is nothing worthy of remark, but all lies waste and foul.  
They drive no Trade here than what is usually done in Villages and mean Market Towns, to wit, Wheat and Barley, which is both plentiful, and to be had at a low price, Fruits, as Pomegranates, Oranges, Lemons, Grapes and other sorts which grow aswell within as without the Town. There is a place not far from Saba, where the Ground is red and barren, which, the Persians say, was by reason that Omarzaad within whose Jurisdiction this Place was, had murdered their Holy Hosseyn, and for this reason it was cursed by Mahomet for his Posterities sake, that it should never bring forth either Herb, or Tree, nor that any Vegetable should like or thrive being transplanted. On the Southeast side of the Town grows abundance of Tobacco, but not cultivated or planted, which is no small profit to the Inhabitants.  
On the 24 we departed from Saba, and at night set down at the Carawansera Schach Ferabath. It was now good travailing by reason of the Cold which in this hot Climate is very acceptable, being not far from the Torrid Zone; where in the Summer time besides the scorching heat of the Sun, the Ground is so hot that it brings all the Skin off ones Feet; the ways being altogether dry and sandy, which also casts a reflection of the Sun upon ones Face, as if it came out of a Furnace, whence many are stifled with the Heat.  

Arrival at Khom.  On the 25 we came to the City Khom, and took up our Lodging in a Carawansera near to the great Maydan. This seems to be a City of an ancient standing, and is at present very large, but by the Ruins of a Wall a considerable distance from the Town it appears that it has been anciently much larger than now it is. It lies in 34 degr. 17 min. Northerly Latitude, and is situate on a level flat Ground having on the right hand the Mountains of Elivend whence issue two Rivers which run through this City, first uniting themselves a little above the Town. In the Winter they lay a Bridge over it, but in the Summer it is some times dry. Near this Bridge stands a little Chapel, wherein they say the Sister of one Iman Risa, who was one of the most eminent Successors of Mahomet lies interred. The Persians have also a special veneration for this Female Saint, and make long Pilgrimages to kiss her Tomb. However the City Khom has many fair and spacious Streets, with many Piazzas and Galleries, to defend from Sun and Rain. They have also great plenty of Fruit, as at Saba, as also Cotton and Tobacco, which grows here in no less plenty than at Saba aforesaid. Besides the many rare Fruits and Plants they have, there is an excellent sort of Melons, having the outward form and colour of an Orange, and is oftentimes taken for one, but being cut up appears within as another Melon. These they commonly carry in the Hand for the delicate flavour, but have no very acceptable or delicious Taste. They have also an odd kind of Cucumber about 18 or 20 Inches long but small, which they pickle much after the manner we do ours, and use'em for Sauce. They have also the common sort of Melons which we commonly call Muskmelons, that far surpass ours for Delicacy. Khom is a place very considerable in regard of Traffic this being eminent for Swords, Knives, Armourers and Cutlers Works. Some of our Company bought here Scymiter Blades, for which they paid to the value of 20 Crowns a piece, yet were not those of the best sort. The Steel they have from Niris near Ispahan where are several Mines. Besides the Smith's work their chief Manufactory is Potts, there being many Fuller's, who are esteemed the best in Persia and their work praeferred before Porceline, which is transmitted all over the Country. The Inhabitants are sociable and friendly enough to converse withal when you have not much to lose, but we were warned to look well about us, for they say that they are brought into the World with their Fist doubled. My Patron lost here 2 new Scymiters he had lately bought, and I a Tobacco box. Six days long stayed the Caravan here, during which time there was much Merchandise negotiated. Here I was cruelly pestered with a Greek Renegado, who continually railed upon me, crying, You faithless Dog, you Infidel, etc. The Fellow had so often affronted me with these and the like Words that I was no longer able to endure him, but finding an opportunity I grasped him by the Collar, and trounced him lustily off with my Fist, and at last getting him down I pummeld him back and sides, saying, You varlet, now you shall find the Fist of a Man, and not the Paw of a Dog. He seeing himself unable to get up again, drew out his Knife which he endeavoured to run into my Belly, but I observing got it wrested out of his Hands, althô not without a little slash, or two, on the Palm of my Hand: with which I gave him an Excellent Cross in the Cheek that he looked like St. Agnes of Monte Sante, withal telling him that althô he was a Musulman I would give him a Christian Token. With this he began to howl out, and I seeing the Coast clear thought good to get out of the way betimes, being fain to abscond till such times as the Caravan was to set forward, which was 24 Hours after.  
On the 1 of january we left Khom, and came that night to Carawansera Kosmabath where we set down. 
JAN. 1672.  That night it began to freeze harder than is usual in those Country's, but was by day very fair and louly weather.  
The next day we got the Village Sensen, lying about 5 Dutch Miles distant from Kaschan where on the 3 day of january we arrived towards the Evening, taking up our Quarters at a very noble and commodious Carawansera, seeming rather a Palace than an Inn.  

Situation of Kaschan, etc.  Kaschan lies in 33 degr. 51 min. It is built long wise and points East and West, being munited with strong Walls and round Redoubts after the old manner of Fortification, on the South side of the Tow● is a place where they exercise the Spear in Tilt and Tournament where are also several Pillars set up for Butts, or Marks to shoot at. O● the other side of the Town are several Royal Gardens and Summe● Houses, and amongst the rest one of a stately Fabric, having a Thousand Windows. Kaschan is at this day the most populous and emine● Marts in all Persia; having also a very famous Basar and Maydan wit● Piazzas and stately Galleries, wherein are many rich Shops. It i● the staple for the most part of the Silk stuffs that are made in Persi● They have also many that work in Velvets and Satins but not altogether so good as those in Europe; so that the King has sent often to Venice expressly for Workmen to come and reside there, which nevertheless he cannot accomplish. The Carawanseras which are here very numerous do surpass all others that ever I have seen elsewhere: tha● where we took up our Quarters being more like a Palace than an In● as I have said before, having 65 spacious Rooms, besides many Conveniences which others want. Below it was all Arched and mad● into stable use, and above with Galleries to entertain the common so● of People. Hither resort many Indian and other Merchants, coming very far and bringing with them many rich Wares and precious Commodities. There are abundance of Looms for Cloth of Gold and Silver, as also many that make Tapestry, and no less is the number of Idle Persons, who swarm hither from all Parts, and like Drone● are maintained by the sedulous Labours of those that take Pains, and here have I seen more Beggars than ever I have seen in any Town in all my Travels. As for the Country of Kaschan, it is very fertile and of an excellent Soil, producing vast Quantities of Wine, Fruit, Corn and is very rich of cattle, insomuch that it is very cheap living there. But this is also concomitated with other Annoyances, to wit, the Extreme Heat of the Climate, and the Multitudes of Scorpions which haunt the Town, those being both great and dangerous, yet both in shape and colour differing from those in Italy. The Inhabitants for fear of that venomous Animal dare not lie upon the Floor, as in other Places, where they only throw a Quilt upon the Tapestry, but have high Couches hanging from the Roofs of the Rooms, like Hammocks: and althô this Creature be very venomous and many are stung by it, yet few die, they having found out a ready Medicine against it, which is made of the Filings of Copper tempered with Vinegar and Honey, which is a very speedy remedy, yet if neglected the Party stung is in danger of his Life. This I presume has been first found out by an Antipathetical quality which seems to be between those Scorpions and Copper, for not far from the City is the Copper-mint, where if one of these be brought it dies immediately.  
Besides these Scorpions, they are pestered with another venomous Creature which they call Enkurekan, being very much like a Spider, 
A great and venomous sort of Spider.  but bigger than a Mouse, some of these are speckled, and some have long streaks over the Back. These keep most in stony Places, and haunt the Herb Tremne, almost like our Wormwood. The venomous Matter which they have in them they spit out, as some say Toads do, which wheresoever it lights, whether on man or Beast it immediately penetrates and incorporates with the Blood, 
An Antidote for their venom.  and so proceeds to the Head and Heart. So soon as the Patient is touched he falls immediately into a deep sleep, in such sort that all the calling and beating him, will not avail or awake him; or if by chance it do he remains still senseless. The best and speediest Remedy for this, is the Enkurekan its self, pounded into a Cataplasm and applied: but when these are not to be had, they use another mean, which is thus. The Patient is laid upon his Back and his Mouth set open, into which they pour much Milk as they can make him digest; which done, they put him in a square Chest, having on each side a Ring, through which are four Cords put and made fast at one Ring on the Ceiling. This Chest thus hanging, they whirl it about for a quarter of an Hour together, till the Patient breaks up and vomits all he has within him. This commonly luck's, if the Patient can be brought to swallow the Potion▪ yet they feel the vigorous force of the Poison for a long time after. These nevertheless do not much annoy the Town, unless when they are brought in with the Faggots, which they use for Fuel. But wha● is most worthy of Remark, is, that Sheep covet them more than an● thing else, and if they chance to spy one run in at a hole will not lea● throwing up Earth till she gets it, and so snapp it up, yet ail nothing at all.  
After we had lay Eight days in Kaschan and bought Wares and Pr●vision, we broke up, and on the 13 at night came to Carawanser● Chotza Cassim, which stands in the middle of a Grove of Cypress and other Trees, which Winter and Summer grow always green In the said Carawansera we found very good Accommodation. Her● my Patron was taken with a sudden Fit of the Cholic, which hel● him so hard, that, we very much doubted of his Recovery, althô at last to my unfeigned Joy it went over.  
On the 14 th'. we had very bad travailing way through dry and sand Ground, and found no Villages nor Towns to refresh our selus a● till we came at Natens which is a very pleasant little City. Here w● set down and took up our Carawansera for that night. The Countre● close by Natens is very fertile and affords great plenty of good Wine The Inhabitants being diligent Propagaters of the Vineyards. Nea● this City is a Hill upon which is erected a very high Tower of square and polished stone which was built by Schach Abas as a Monument of a Battle between an Eagle and a Hawk, where the last after a long Encounter came off with Victory. It began now to freeze harder and harder, as also to snow so that we were fain to stay 3 Day at Natens, during which time we made good Cheer, and spared not our Proviands which we had taken up by the way, having now got sight of the Royal City Ispahan.  
On the 17 th'. we left Natens and that Day had very rocky ground to drive over, and by the way stopped at a famous Carawansera called Dombi, where we rested and refreshed our selus, and at night were fain to set down at Ruk a Village not far from Ispahan, by reason of the snow, remaining there also the most part of the next day.   

CHAP. XXXI. Arrival at Ispahan. Their Reception with the Dutch Resident. A Rélation of the Stability of Anthony Munster, who was urged to embrace Mahometanism: his Death and Burial. The Manner and Situation of the Dutch Lodge. The Situation of Ispahan, it's Greatness: Rivers running through the same. The Aqueduct, a mighty work of Schach Abas. The Streets of Ispahan. Maydan and Basar. Fair Arches and Galleries. The Sumptuous Mestzid of Schach Abas. Dowlet- or Schach-Chane, the Royal Palace. The Divan-Chane, or Court of Justice. The Hiram-Chane, or Palace of the King's Concubines. Allycarpi a Sanctuary, or place of Refuge. Carawanseras, Taverns. Cahwae-Chane, Coffeehouses. Persian Saints and Philosophers. Remal and Falkil, two sorts of soothsayers. Their strange and ridiculous way of presaging. The Kaysery or Gallery of Shops.  
HAving stayed the most part of 2 Days at Ruk, 
Arrival at Ispahan.  we set forward again, and on the 19 we came to the long-wishd-for Ispahan. Where being arrived I longed greedily to see my Countrymen, and went to my good Master Hadsi Byram to take my leave of him, with a Thousand Thanks for his many Favours: I desired him also to let some go with me to show me the Dutch Lodge, which he with great willingness assented to, and sent one of his Slaves with me.  
Thus I went with Monsr. Lewis Fabritius and Christian Brandt to the Lodge, where for that time the Heer Frederic Bend of Enkhuysen was Chief Factor for the East India Company, Monsr. Kasenbroot of Rheenen, Second, or Under-Factor, and Mr. Hubert Balde of Amsterdam Assistant. When we came at the Gate we found a Black, who was the Porter, and spoke very good Nether-Dutch whom we desired to make our coming known; which when he had done, we were admitted in, and very friendly received by the said Gentlemen, who invited us to stay there, which without much refusal we accepted with many Thanks. They brought us forthwith into a very stately Room hung with Tapestry, and furnished with Beds, where we lay; and had also Victuals and Firing provided us, with what else was necessary. Besides that they showed us all imaginable Friendship and Divertisements, taking great delight to hear our many Evasions and Deliverances from such hard Adventures. I have elsewhere advised how that being at Scamachi, we had a Letter from one of our Company, to which was set no name; yet praesumed that it was from Anthony Munster the Jeweller. The certainty thereof I understood here, as also how he was brought to Ispahan. Being come to Ispahan, his Patron wrought very hard upon him to renounce Christianity, and embrace the Mahometan Faith, promising him upon his so doing to esteem him for his Son, to giv him one of his Daughters in Marriage, and a considerable Dowry, beyond what was customary in those Lands. All these the young Man declined, saying, that neither Promises nor Threats should ever praevail with him and therefore begged of him to rest contented. His Patron finally marking, that he was not flexible to espouse that Religion, he began to pester and oppress him with all manner of Cruelty that he could invent, insomuch that he became very Melancholic, and at last lost his Senses, in which condition he made his Escape into the Dutch Lodge, whic● he took up for his Sanctuary, and was kindly received by the Hee● Bent, who held him so long in private till he had obtained his Freedom from the King. Yet still continued this Frenzy with him, till he died, only some say that by certain Expressions he made, about the Eternity of the Soul, he was sensible of himself a little before his Death. He was buried with a more than ordinary Pomp, considering the meanness of his Person, as to outward Estate; but was highly set by for his perseverance and constancy in the Christian Faith. His outward Qualities were very commendable being of a handsome stature, fair Complexion and in every Way and Gesture very taking: nor was he less to be praised for the internal Faculties of the Mind and Soul, being very conscientious and just in all his dealings, and withal pious. His sweet Manners and Conversation was such that those who had the left converse with him were very sorry for his untimely, or to speak more properly, his early Death, he not being fully 26 years of Age.  
The Dutch Lodge is a very fair Building, not far from the King's Palace, having many fair Apartments, Warehouses, and other Conveniences for reposing Merchandizes. The many fair Rooms it has, are furnished with all necessary Movables, beyond those of the Persians, and far more costly. Behind the House is a fair and spacious Garden, having all sorts of Fruit-trees proper to that and other Climates, as also a great Vineyard and an Arboret, or Nursery for young Trees. In the middle is to be seen a very noble Fountain, dispersing its water in various Figures in the Air, to an admirable height, surpassing most Water-works that I have seen in Europe. The Hollanders live there very splendidly, to uphold the Honour of the East India Company, and go in the Persian Habit, as also their Waiters and Attendants, who are mostly Turks and Moors: and because I was to go for Gameron they gave me a new Persian Suit: which I was to take with me. In the mean while I had work enough to satisfy their curiosity with frequent rehearsals of what had befallen me in my foregoing Voyages to the Indies, and the Levant.  
Ispahan, called also Isphahan, lies in 32 degr. and 26 min. in the Country of 
* Or, Arak as Mercator calls it, others call it Chorasan, and others Lexa.  Erak, formerly called Parthia. It is situated in a level and plain Landship, environed on every side with Mountains at a considerable distance, as the Mountains of Demawend on the South and South-west, Masanderan and Jeylak Persan on the North-east. This is the greatest City that I have seen in all Persia, being, with its Suburbs and all 16 hours going in circuit [about 48 English Miles] It is but very weakly fortified, the Walls being only of Earth and sloping inward, so that at Top they are not above 6 Foot thick; the Trench or Ditch is also very narrow, and in the Summer so shallow that the Children wade through it, and sometimes it is wholly dry: so that this City seems to ●ear no Enemy or foreign Invasion, trusting to the potency and number of Inhabitants.  
On the South and South-west side it is watered with the Senderut, a reasonable great River rising from the Demawend Mountains, which coming here is led through the Town by Pipes and Subterranean Aqueducts, for Kitchen and other uses, althô in Gardens and gentlemen's Houses they have Fountains apart. There is also a Branch of this River that runs through the Park wherein are Harts, and other Beasts of chase: this Park or Warrant they call Hozartzieris. Another arm of the River is brought under Ground through the Tzarbag, or Royal Garden. Not far from hence is a fair Stone Bridge which lies over the River, wherein is great variety of rare Workmanship. Besides the Senderut, there is another River, or rather Aqueduct, called Abkuren, begun by Schach Abas and not yet finished, which is fetched from beyond the Mountains of Demawende. About the making of this Aquaeduct were more than a 1000 Men continually at Work, each Man having about 7d d sterl. a day wages, yet what with the Violence of unusual Floods, and what with the Foreign Wars in which this Prince was involved, the work was totally laid aside after a 3 Month's labour. But the Chans, and Deputies who were more at leisure, seeing the work so detarded jointly lent their Assistance to carry on this laudable Design, in which they saw the King took so much delight, maintaining so many Men at their proper Expenses. The Difficulty they met with was unspeakably great, having hard Rocks of Flint and Marble to cut through, besides much rising and falling Ground, which they had to make equal. But the work being brought within 600 Paces of the Town the King died, and his Successor, whose inclinations were quite of another strain, had no mind to finish it insomuch that it remains still as it was when Schach Abas died.  
The Streets of Ispahan were formerly very wide, but when the abovementioned Abas, King of Persia, removed the Imperial Throne from Caswin hither, he was followed by so many Gentry and others that had their Appendency from the Court, that whole Rows of Houses were built in the middle of every Street, making by that one Street into 2. It is exceeding populous, insomuch that many times when one would pass through the Maydan or Basar he must be fain to stay a long time, before he gets passage. The Maydan, which is a place serving as our Exchanges, is very large, being 700 Paces long, and 250 broad, and yet too little by far to contain the vast Multitudes which daily have recourse hither about different Businesses. On th● West side towards the King's Palace are many fair Galleries, Piazzas and Arches, where all the Goldsmiths and Jewellers have their Shops: and before the said Piazzas are planted many Palm-Trees to secure them from the vigorous heat of the Sun. On the East side is another Gallery with many fair Arches, where all sorts of Mechanics work in the open sight of all. Right over against this said Gallery is a Triumphal Arch erected, where the Kettle-drummers, Trumpeters and Fifers sit, and play when the King goes out, or in, as also upon the Introduction of any foreign Prince, Chan, or Ambassador.  


●●ngelse Logye  
2. Metzid of Tempel.  
3. Hollantse Logie.  
4. Doodts Hoofden Icoren.  
5. Maydan of marked  
6 Vrouwen Tempel  
7. ●t Hof van. Persien.    
On the 23 of January was a great Match which I had the Fortune to see. It was appointed at the Intercession of the Usbec Ambassador by the King who was himself present, and was mounted on a stately Arabian Horse richly capparisoned, for the Saddle and Saddle-cloth were very richly embroidered and so thick beset with Rubies and other Precious Stones that one could hardly view it. The Court and Royal Retinue were also well mounted and appeared very splendid. When they were ready to try their Dexterity one went up to the Top, and set up a Cup of Gold, which who could hit and bring it down, should not only have it for his Pains, but also be preferred to great Honour, and take place among the Princess of Persia, The King gave the Tartars the Advantage of shooting first who after they had shot more than an hour, were fain to give over: for it was to be done on Horse back, and the Horse in a full carrier, and furthermore not to shoot till they came to a certain Place where they had the mast directly on the left side. The Ambassador seeing that none of his men were so dexterous gave over, and desired the King that he would vouchsafe to try the skill of the Persians. Upon which the King ordered certain Persons, who, without doubt, were very expert Marks-men, to ride in a circle, one for one, where the third that shot had the Fortune to bring it down, upon which the Persians gave a shout that the Palace rang again. Upon this he was sent for by the King and brought into the Palace with as much Triumph as if he had won some signal Victory; the Cup, Bow, and Quivers were like Trophys carried before him, by certain Heralds thereto appointed, and he himself althô but a poor Man's Son of Keylan, promoted to great honour and reckoned in the Degree of a Chan. Besides this the King gave him a considerable Pension out of the treasury to maintain his Grandour.  
On the South side of the Maydan is a very stately Mestzid which was founded and begun by Schach Abas, 
The Metzid of Schach Abas described.  but finished by Sephy his Nephew, who dedicated it to Twelve Saints, which are all included under the name of Mehedi, and, as their Historians affirm, were all buried in one Grave. The way from the Maydan to this Mes●zid is all paved with huge marble Stones, in the middle whereof is a great Stone Bath where every one that will enter the said Temple is first obliged to wash. Leaving this Passage you go up two Steps which leads you into a broad Plain, and about 8 hundred Foot directly forward another step which brings you into the Church. The Gate which enters the Mesquite is of fair Marble and about as high as that of the Meschaich of Choddabende in Sultanie. The Doors of this Temple are laid o'er with Silver Plates, and set in with Flowers of Gold. Entering within the Gate, you come into a pompous Antichamber, the Floor whereof is bespread with very fine Mats, upon which they fall down on their Knees, and make a short prayer. From hence on each hand is a stately Gallery, each leading into another spacious Court, having in the middle a great Fountain, with a Bath. Above these great Galleries are some less, which are supported by marble Pillars, the Chapters and Foliage whereof are neatly gilded. When you are passed these Galleries and the Courts, you come into the Temple i● self, entering in at a splendid Port, within and under the Ceiling, all laid in with blue Tiles of true Porceline, and intermixed with Flowers of Gold. The Temple its self is very large and sumptuous, supported with huge marble Pillars. On the right hand at going out of this Church, you enter through an Arch into a magnificent Hall, where stands a Pulpit and an Altar, which said place, for sumptuousness and uniformity of structure, is reputed the most costly Building and most glorious Fabric in the whole Emarath. All the Marble whereof it is built, seeming to outvie the Snow its self for whiteness, is brought hither, not without vast trouble and Charges, from the Mountains of Elivend.  

The Palace.  The King's Palace, called Dowlet, or Schach Chane is also a very stately House. Before you enter the outer Gate is a large Plain, on which are many Pieces of old Brass Ordnance, unfit for use, and are only thrown together on heaps, and out of order: a true Emblem of such Persons as have in the Flower of their Youth been serviceable to their Prince and Commonwealth, but growing old and impotent become Abjects; and are laid aside. The Palace, 'tis true, is munited on every side with a Wall, but so meanly, that it would not resist a Cannon ball, much less secure the Person of the King, if attacked with any sudden Force, which is the least thing they dread. By day the utmost Gate is only guarded with 4 Sentinels but at night, by 15 Halberdiers: and in the Bedchamber of the King 30 young Gentlemen, being mostly the Sons of great Personages; in whom the King reposes most Confidence. Every night the Kischiktzchi, or Captain of the Guards, brings the King a List of their Names; who are to stand upon the Ward the night following. Within the Palace are several great Halls or Apartments, amongst which the Tabchane and the Diwan-Chane are the chiefest: The former being the Banqueting House, and the latter the Court of Justice. In the Diwan-Chane Ambassadors are always received and thence introducted into the Chamber of Audience, the more because the Glory of the Cavalcade and other Solemnities can be here the better seen. Another Apartment which is not much inferior to those already made mention of, is the Haram-Chane, where the King diverts himself with his Wives and Concubines. The Dekay is the Place where the King retires, and has his Residence, when not engaged in any important Affair, holding here his Table with his legitimat Wives. In short there are many other Apartments within the Palace for inferior Concerns. Behind the Palace is a Garden which they call the Chobbadar; in the middle whereof is a beautiful little Chapel. Here is also the great Sanctuary, or Place of Refuge, which they call Allycarpi, which is as much as to say, God's Gate; in which Place a Malefactor is free from Justice. There is also another such Place of Refuge, on the other side of the Maydan, called Tzechil Sutun, so called from 40 huge massy Beams that rest upon one Pillar standing in the middle, and so support the Roof. Hither it was whither the Persians fled when the Town was taken in by the great Tamerlan, and opposed him again, but he breaking in with violence put all to the sword, save those that had got into the interior Temple, or Metzid, for which he had such a veneration that he would not violate the Institutions of Mahomet, or pollute the Sanctuary with Blood.  
On the North side of the Maydan, are many Taverns and Tap-houses, and among those a House greatly frequented by Traders, called the Tzaychatti-Chane or Thee-house, which they prepare quite after another manner than the Indians, of whom the Europeans first had it; for here they put in so many aromatical Ingredients, that one can neither perceiv any Taste or Smell of Tee in it. In drinking Tee they also accustom themselves to Play, and especially at Chess, at which they are very quick and expert. The Coffeehouses they call Cahwa-Chane, where they only go to drink Coffee and smoke Tobacco, with which they are so deeply affected that they sometimes smoke in the Church. When they are within doors they have a great Glass, full of water, through which they put their Pipes and smoke, much after the manner of an Alembric Still, which renders it very cool. When they draw, the water bubbles up as if it boiled, yet by reason of a stinking vapour that rises from it, is very annoysom. But when they smoke along the street have only such a Pipe as those which are now grown common in the Low-countrieses, being of several joints, and the Head of Earth. Their Coffee they drink very hot, and are 〈◊〉 opinion that it sedates and assuages their Lust to Women, whic● make their Wives ready to protest against it, rather willing tha● their Husbands should transgress against the Koran and use th● Juice of the Grape than that Arabian Berry. The chief Custome● which those Public Houses have, are the Barbers, who frequent haunt them to be employed in shaving their Heads: but every ma● that is able to buy a Razor always carries one about with him, bein● very fearful of the Venereal Murrain, which they call Keschi, and w● the French Pox, or some such thing.  
But acquaint is the Habit, and more strange the Customs of the● Clergy, and such as are under any Spiritual Order, who notwithstanding their vain and palpable Fooleries, have drawn themselves into a great esteem of the Laïty of all degrees. These abstain fro● Wine, live an austere life, and never marry till they grow very old Some go in a long course Robe, others half naked, and a third f● only with a Skin girded about their middle. They go about the Streets and when they come to any large Place as the Maydan, Basar, or th● like, sit down, and with a most hideous yelling convoke an Auditory which being assembled they make a kind of a hortatory Oration which notwithstanding the Scope or End, contains little else tha● a commemoration of the great and worthy Acts of Aly, and alwai● at Peroration vilify and curse the Turkish Saints Omar, Osman an● Abubeker. but more eagerly against the dogmatical Decrees of th● Ubec-Tartars: But those of that nation being of late years grown ver● numerous at Ispahan, assumed the boldness to oppose them, for whic● end the King has allowed those Worthies to go armed with Hatchets as at present they do, and have free Toleration to knock any man down that shall offer to interrupt them. They have one only Monastery, or Coenobium, where they all live together, which was built them at the Charges of the present King: and have also a considerable Sum allowed them for their maintenance, besides what they gather from the People by mumping, or rather Mountebanking.  
On the West side about Dowlet-Chane are all the soothsayers, of which there be two sorts, to wit, Remal and Falkir, both which are in their practice more ridiculous than our circumventing Gypsies, and consequently not worth my Pains to recount, nor the Readers Patience to hear of 'em.  
In going from the Maydan to the Northward you find a way which leads you to the Basan, where is a very stately Kayserie, full of Shops and those stored with very rich commodities. This Market consists in a certain number of Streets, that are mostly arched over. Hither repair Merchants of all Nations, except Persians alone, as Indians, Tartars, Turks, Armenians, Georgians, as also English, French, Italians, Hollanders and other Europeans. Their way of Dealing is altogether for Money, nothing by Barter. Abas is the most plentiful coin in use among them, valuing something less than an [English] Shilling, and the Schach Abas which is half the value of the other; the latter is also mostly called Choddabende. They do not use much Gold, but abundance of Copper which they call Pull, 40 of which Pieces make an Abas. The Europeans who come thither bring commonly Rixdollars, which the Persians once getting into their Hands will by no means part with them, for they are diligently sought up by the Money-changers, who bring them to the Serab-Chane, or Mint, and make a considerable profit of them.   

CHAP. XXXII. Taberik Kale the Treasury of the Kingdom. The Suburbs of Ispahan. Tziulfa, a place where the Armenian Christians have their Residence. Tabrisabath. Hassenabath. Kebrabath, so called from Kebber, Persians that are still Pagans. Tzarbag. The Nature of the Persians. Property of the Land. Celebration of the Epiphany by the Armenian Christians.  
ISpahan, as it is a Royal City of so considerable a Monarchy, and one of the first magnitude, so it has a great concourse of Strangers from all Countries in the World, so that above all other Vocations the Innkeepers generally thrive the best, and by their great doings accommodate all Persons to their full Content: The Carawanseras here are more sumptuous by far than either those of Caswin, or any other City in Persia. They are for the most part square, some of them having 4 or 5 Galleries abov one another, and those furnished with very commodious Apartments, and for their better Security for Thiefs are surrounded with high Stone Walls.  
In Ispahan are also many fair Buildings, besides what are already remembered, amongst which the Taberik Kale, or Fort Royal where the King's treasury is, is one of the most eminent, situated between the Palace and the Mestzid Mehedi, which is both munited with strong Walls, guarded continually with a sufficient Body of Soldiery, and has plenty of Brass Cannon. The same also serves for a Magazine or Repository of Armoury. There are also two fair Christian Monasteries, the one for the Carmelites and the other for Augustin Monks.  
These with many other fair Buildings, too tedious to recount, are within the Walls. There are also many splendid Piles of Buildings without in the Suburbs, which they call the Rhabath. In the Suburbs are two eminent Wards, to wit, Tzulfa and Ciulfa, mostly, or altogether inhabited by the Armenian Christians, who are reputed the ablest Merchants in Ispahan, being transported hither by Schach Abas from their own Country, and have since enjoyed sundry Immunities, and have a Governor of their own, which they call Daruga who must bring up 200 Tumain yearly contribution to the King, which is taken out of their Public Stock. The private Dwelling-Houses of those Armenians do equal, or rather surpass those within Walls for splendid structure. On the one side of the River Senderut is another Place, called Tabri- or Abas-Sabath for that Schach Abas had allotted the People of Tabris this Part of the Town to dwell in▪ Another Ward, or Quarter of the Suburbs is called Hassenabath, which is mostly inhabited by the Georgian Christians, commonly called Trurtzi, These as well as the Armenians are great Merchants, being also highly in favour with the King, not only for the vast Tribute which they pay, but aswel for their Loyalty and good deportment: and these are the only Christians who are tolerated to live within the Walls, and have a Quarter of the Town allotted them near the Mestzid Mehedi, althô they rather choose to dwell in the Suburbs, that they may be retire from the Calumny of the Mahometans, and the better enjoy the Benefits of a Christian Society. The Kebrabath is a District of the Suburbs lying on the West side of the City, so called from the Kebbers, which are a sort of ancient Persian Pagans, who following the old opinion of the Persians, when they were yet Heathens, will not embrace Mahometanism. These differ from the rest in Habit, as well as in Customs and Religion, wearing loose Drawers, with a long Coat only fastened at the Collar, open at the shoulders: Their Hair they let grow, all over their Head and Face. The Women are attired as the Men only with this difference, that they wear a long Silk or Cotton Scarf which trails on the Ground. The Language they speak is still the ancient Lingua Persica, for they are very curious in preserving their ancient Tongue without any Innovation, insomuch that the Persians who speak the modern Language cannot understand them [as the English cannot understand the old British, or Welsh] yet these can both understand and speak the present Persian Tongue. They retain also the Ancient Characters, and adore the Sun and the Elements for Deïties performing Monthly Sacrifices. Besides the veneration they have for the Sun, they do worship to the Stars, but have little or no Judgement in the course of the same. Snakes and all other venomous Animals they hold for unclean, so that whosoever touches any of those, whether voluntarily, or by accident, must not enter into their Temples till he be purified. Their Dead they do not burn as most Pagans do, but when any Person dies, whether it be an Infant, or one come to full growth and Maturity, they wash the Body very clean, and carry it to a Place far distant from any Houses, and there set it upright against a Post, where they wait till the Ravens come and pick out the one Eye, which if it be the right Eye, they are of opinion that the Soul of the Departed is in Paradise, and therefore inter him very decently; but if the Bird pull out his left Eye first, than they hold it for a sure Token, that he is damned, and for his wicked Life to suffer perpetual Torments, and therefore esteem him not worthy of such solemn Exequys, but cast him headlong into a deep Pit.  
Without the City of Ispahan are many fair Gardens and Summer-houses, belonging to the King and divers great Personages. The most eminent of all these is the Tzarbag, not far from the great Bridge, being 4 square, and about 2 [English] Miles in circuit. This (as was said before) is watered with an Aquaeduct that is conveyed under Ground by several small leaden Pipes from the Main, and here and there vented by Fountains, which force the Water sometimes 36 or 40 foot high. On each corner stands a noble Summer House, of an admirable rare Fabric. The Garden its self has the most and greatest varieties of Fruit-Trees and Vegetables that ever I have seen, althô it was then Winter when I was there. And indeed the Persians are great Lovers of Planting, Gardening, and all manner of Tillage; so that there is hardly a House in all Ispahan, but has something of a Garden behind it, more or less, whence it comes that this City is so great in compass.  
As to the manner of their Housekeeping and other peculiar Customs, I hold it needless to treat any thing about, since it may be collected out of what I have already said in the foregoing Chapters. They are in general very sociable, and for their Urbanity towards strangers, draw many Foreigners thither. They are also Lovers of all kinds of Discipline, and the Gentry very ambitious in Arts and Sciences. The Land about Ispahan is very fertile, and affords all that is necessary for human sustenance in good plenty. But the Town being very populous through the great concourse of Strangers from all parts of the World makes all things very dear, but especially Fuel, insomuch that Wood and Charcoal are sold by the Pound, and notwithstanding it may seem to be in a warm climate, yet in the Winter it is very cold, or at lest so seeming to them, who are used to the great heat of the Summer Solstice. During the time of my being there they were very busy about gathering their Ice, which is got and preserved after this manner: First they dig a great Pit in the Earth, about 40 Foot deep, which they encompass with a Wall, about 10 Fathom high which is commonly made of Clay, but that side next to the North is lower than the rest, that the cool North Winds may allay the violent Heat of the Sun: then they dig or plow certain furrows in the Plains round about, which when it freezes, they set all over with Water, and so gather the Ice, and when they have enough cover it with straw. This Ice is very common in use among the richer sort in the Summer time, not only for cooling the Wines, but aswell for lying upon their Dishes of Fruit, 
FEB. 1672.  when they are brought up to the Table, which is only laid on a heap in the middle of the Dish, and so dissolves itself, through all the Fruit. This is reckoned for a good commodity if it be a hot Summer, and is sold as well along the Streets, as in Houses.  
On the 16 of February, was the Epiphany celebrated by the Armenian and Georgian Christians. So soon as I heard what was the matter, I rose pretty early in the morning with intent to see the Solemnity of the Day. The first I met was the Jesaulcor, or Great Marshal with all his subordinat Officers, who were ordered to prevent Tumults, and not to suffer Horses and Camels with any Burdens to pass over the Bridges and through the Streets that lead to Tzulfa and Tzarbag; which was not only done for the sake of the Christians, but upon the account of one of the Kings legitimat Wives, whom he entirely loved, being a Georgian by birth and educated in the Christian Religion, and had a desire to go and see the Solemnities performed, which the King would not deny her, for that she was great with Child. About 8 in the morning were all the Christian Ladies in Balconies, which were all hung with Tapestry, and those of the greatest rank with Canopies over head. Those of meaner degree sat on each side the River Senderus, and had a Guard of Soldiers under the Command of an Officer, to secure them from being abused by the Mahometans, and to suffer no Men to crowd in upon them. About 9 assembled all those under Spiritual Orders and the Clergy belonging to the 10 Churches of Tzulpha, and the 2 Churches of Ispahan. Those were all attired in white Stoles and Caps of Cloth of Gold upon their Heads, with long Labels hanging down to their middle, but more gorgeous was the Attire of the Patriarch, being all over richly embroidered with Gold and adorned with costly Gems. Every Priest carried a Silver Cross hung with little Silver Bells and Basins. The Crosses which were carried by those of higher degrees and in the foremost Ranks were supported, each by 3 Men. The Inferior Clergy followed after with lighted Tapours in their Hands, accompanied with the most eminent of the Laïty. The Superior Monks of Ispahan adjoined themselves to the Patriarch, 5 of them bearing up his Pontifical Robes, 2 on each side and one behind. About one a clock came the King mounted on a stately Arabian Horse, without any considerable Retinu save only the Chancellor and Grand Marshal, the the Guards and the rest of the Court having order to keep behind the Procession. The Begum, or Queen before mentioned was carried before as a private Gentlewoman in a Sedan to a great Merchant's house, accompanied only with one Gentlewoman, the Master of the Eunuches and 4 of his Company: for the King ever reposes great Confidence in the Christians, and esteems them as the most loyal of all his Subjects, as appears by his adventuring his person among them, without any Guards. But before the Procession was ended it began to snow very hard, which did not only cause the King to leave them but put a stop to the further Celebration of this great Festival, which, by the preparations, seemed to be intended to be solemnised with very great Pomp: for besides the Contribution of all the Christians, who, as I have elsewhere noted, are very rich, the King sends the Patriarch a considerable Sum of Money some time before, in order to the carrying on and maintaining this anniversary Custom. The Patriarch and Superior Clergy seeing there was no hopes of the Wether growing better, they departed without performing the ritual Ceremonies: but the Laïty continued Dancing and Singing all the Night long.  
In the mean while the Caravan was in a readiness to depart for Gammeron, and the Heer Bent gave order for Horses and Camels to be bought up for us, to carry our Provision and Baggage. He also took care to buy us all Necessaries we had occasion for on our Journey and was pleased to appoint me as Caffil Abassi, or Overseer of the Provision. About this time it froze very hard, and as I not without wondering saw Ice 3 Foot thick, which was averred never to be known in that Country in any man's Age. How hard a season it was for poor People may be gathered from what I have already said how scarce all kind of Fuel is is Ispahan.   

CHAP. XXXIII. The great Civility of Hadsi Biram. The Author's Departure out of Ispahan. Their incommodous Travelling through the Snow. Wells and Pits of Water abounding with Fish. They are much incommodated in their Travailing. The Caravan assailed by Robbers. Their Superstitious horror of Swine's Flesh. Sepulchre of Schach Solyman's Mother. The Sepulchre of Noah, his Wife, Children, and children's Children. Tzilminar. The Pompous Relics and Ruins of the famous Persepolis, and the noble Fort thereof. The Statue of Rustan, a Persian Champion.  
ON the 17 of February we had order to make ready for our Journey, 
FEB. 1672.  wherefore that morning I went to return my hearty Thanks to my good Master, Hadzi Byram, where coming and finding him at home I saluted him after the Persian manner, withal manifesting my gratefullness to him for his many Favours, which he had shown me, althô without the lest deserts; but he interpelling me in my discourse, forbade me to talk any more of that, saying, I have not yet him so worthy as to give you the Reward I promised you: which was to set you free when you came to Ispahan, and now I understand you have redeemed yourself with your own Money: however I shall make it good to you by an Equivalent. With that he opened a Chest and gave me 100 Dollars, saying, This I give you as part of Reward, for your care to save my life when I was in danger of losing it at the Caspian Sea. This extraordinary great Bounty coming so besides my expectation, put me to a stand what reply to make at first, but considering how he might look upon it as an Ingratitude to be silent, I expressed myself after this manner, Sir, I am not able ever to do you such service as may recompense your Goodness, but I hope that GOD will remember your Bounty done in secret, which is the truest Charity, notwithstanding the unworthiness of myself on whom it is shown. Great reason it is that I should record the worthy Deeds of this Turkish Christian or Christian Turk: not only as don to me, but as don to one of another Faith, and that without vain Glory, a thing he ever hated: his calling me aside and forbidding me to make it known, manifest the Absoluteness and Integrity of Charity, well knowing that I was just upon my departure, and consequently not likely to be his Trumpeter: but the more he charged me to conceal it the more I reckon it my Office to publish it, that Christians whose first and chief Duty towards their Neighbour is Charity, and that the remissness of that Duty may be convinced by those who hold it as a voluntary and not an enjoined Act. In sum his fair Carriage towards me, unfortunately thrown from a Condition of Freedom to a State of Slavery, had so far engaged me to love and honour him, that (had it not been for the Restriction and Care of a Wife and Children who lived all this time as Widow and Orphans) I could have been more content to serve him all my Life as a Slave, than to have the Liberty which I have before and since enjoyed, with such Anxiety. When, with a faint Heart and Eyes full of Tears, I took my last leave of him he embraced me, and told me he had yet hopes to see me once again, and when I was at a distance, cried out, GOD in the highest Heavens conduct you: GOD Almighty bring you in safety home: which were the last words I heard him speak.  

Departure of the Author from Ispahan.  My two Companions, to wit, C. Brand, and L. Fabritius were returned back again to Derbent, with intent to go by way of Russia, and I departed with the Caravan of the Honourable the East India Company, from the Royal City Ispahan, having a sufficient number of Camels and Mules to carry our Provision and Baggage to Gammeron.  

Mayar.  The same day we travailed 8 Leagues and about 10 a Clock came to a village called Majar, where we took up our night's Lodging. We had also in our Company some of those Persians, of whom I have already made mention that live still in Heathenism, whom I found very civil and faithful in all their Doings.  
On the 18 it was very cold weather and snowy, that we could hardly keep a Horseback. The snow was here thicker than ever I have seen it (to my knowledge) in the Low-countrieses, being between 4 and 5 Foot deep upon the Ground, and the Path so narrow, that the Horses oftentimes going out of the Way, tumbled down in the snow with the Packs, which happening so often mainly detarded that days Journey. Before night we got the hilly Country and set down in the village Canischa, where, by reason of bad Wether, we rested 3 days with the Caravan.  
Upon the 22 we set forward again and had very hilly way, which proved so incommodous that we travailed that day no more than 6 Dutch Miles, and took our Night's rest at a Carawansera, where we met another Caravan coming from Gammeron richly loaden with all sorts of Indian Commodities, and bound for several Markets in Persia.  
On the 23 we broke up and the same day had bad and slippery way insomuch that some of our Camels and Horses fell, whereby the Chests and Goods were much endamaged. The Heer Bend, as I said before, having appointed me as Caffil Abassi, or Overseer, it was my duty to look to the reparation of this Damage, and to see the Chests effectually mended, and therefore I went to see if I could meet with any Person who could help me in the Village, letting the Caravan remain so long in a Carawansera. At last after much enquiry I found one, but coming back understood that my Portmantle and my Money was stole, which put me in a great straight for I had not above the value of 25 gilled. [or 55 sh. sterling.] left I suspected that some of our Company was the Party that had committed the Theft, and had also a private hint given me of it. The matter concerned me so far, that I forthwith began to tax the Party with it that I had in suspicion, but he stoutly denied it, and was so displeased at me for blemishing his Reputation, that he intimated the matter to some of his Companions, who unanimously swore to be revenged on me and taking their opportunity fell all together upon me, and used me in most cruel manner. It was the Brother of the Party that told me, averring that he had seen it, but when he came to confront him; denied every word he spoke to me, insomuch that I was fain for the time being to be patient, yet fully resolved to have it out of his Hide the first opportunity. That day we travailed 7 Dutch Miles and came at night to a Village formerly called Jurgestan, now jesegas.  
On the 24 we broke up again, and that morning met a Post coming from Gameron, and intending for Ispahan, of whom I understood that the Director van der Dussen, who had remitted the Money for my Redemption was gone for Batavia. These Tidings I must confess, were very unwelcome to me, because I knew it would be 4 Months before any Ships would go for Batavia, the more because I was to endure the hot season at Gameron. This day we travailed 6 Dutch Miles and at night came to a fair new-built Carawansera.  
The next day we broke up and passed through a fair Town called Surina. About 12 a clock it began to snow very hard, so continuing till the Evening when we met with a good Carawansera, which was no small comfort to us, having no stomach to lie such weather without a Roof in the open Field. The same day we travailed 7 Dutch Miles.  
On the 25 we had very good weather, and the Way also reasonable good so that in good time we got to a Carawansera, which lay about 8 Dutch Miles, or something more from the other. Near this place are divers Ponds of sweet Water affoarding also great plenty of Fish: wherefore we went to Angle, and took about 40 Carp, which because of the Novelty were very acceptable, having eaten nothing all the way but salt Meat. These Ponds as well as the Carawansera were made, as we understood from an Inscription over the Door, at the Charges of the Dutch East India Company.  
On the 26 we had very high Hills to clamber over, so that the hollow places in the way being filled with snow, put us (notwithstanding all the care and vigilance we could use) to a great deal of trouble, for the way being very slippery, the Camels, Mules and Horses often stumbled and fell, which greatly endamaged the Chests which were but newly and very loosely repaired. Besides that it snew very thick all the Forenoon, which made us long for a Carawansera, that we could not reach till late at night coming to the Village Gufti, where we rested for that night, having made no more than 5 Dutch Miles the whole day. That night and the next day it continued snowing, so that we resolved to continue under roof till the weather grew better. About noon came a Caravan from S●yras, but we having taken up the place, they were fain to go forward till they found another.  

The Caravan surprised by Robbers.  On the 27 the weather grew better and the Sun shone, so that we proceeded on our Journey, but having travailed an hour or two, we were surprised by some Robbers, who all on a sudden assailed us and beset the Caravan round, and fell a tearing all they could come at. Our Company, being afraid of their lives deserted the Camels and left me alone to stand out the brunt of all. One of the Robbers thrust his hand into a Bag in which were 3 or 4 Flitches of Bacon and some Hams, who, when he came to know what it was, fell a cursing and menacing me, that I did not warn him, for he was thereby unclean, and according to the Mahometan Superstition not to come into the Society of others, or enter the Temple. That Gnat, it seems he strained at, yet stuck not to swallow a Camel. Having taken what they could carry they left me, but not without a Token to remember them, giving me so many Rebounders about the Head with their Truncheons, that I was taken up for Dead by my faithful Fellow-Travellers, who came again when they saw there was none to molest'em. That day we travailed 24 [English] Miles, and at night came to a very commodious and stately Carawansera, such as I had not met with all the way unless in some great City, being all round with Galleries.  
On the 28 we set forward on our Journey and came to a fair Village called Mestzid, where we had a very commodious Carawansera, and stayed there that night. The said Carawansera was nothing inferior to that we had the night before, aswell in respect of Conveniency as ornament, having much variety of Carved work, as Foliage, Fructurage, etc. after the Persian manner: the Walls also were covered with a neat sort of white glazed Tiles. Near to this Place is the Sepulchre and Tomb of the Mother of Schach Solyman, 
The Sepulchre of Schach Soliman's Mother.  being a fair Monument of white Marble: hither repair many devout Women to visit the Tomb and pour out their Prayers and Supplications for themselves and Friends, which I remarked was very brief, for they only (according to the general Injunction) pushed the Tomb with their Head 3 times, and as often stooped to kiss it, than muttered out a short prayer, which doubtless they have by form, and so departed. Having stayed there that night we went in the Morning to buy up some fresh Provisions and Fruits, that place being very famous for Winter-growth of Fruits, both as to plenty and Cheapness.  
On the 
* For it was Leap year.  Nine and Twentieth of Febr. we came to a little village called Siwa, having that day travailed 5 Dutch Miles.  
The next day we set forward on our Journey and travailing a good pace, came pretty early into the village Mardasch, where we resolved to rest a little being almost wearied out with the badness of the Way and Weather. The next morning I took a turn without Town on Horseback, with one of our Company; where having rode about 2 Miles to the Eastward from the Town, we descried a huge fair Pile of Building, which afterwards by some Pilgrims that we met, we understood was a Sepulchre. The general Structure was a very fair Temple altogether built of Marble, standing on a rising ground and supported with 10 high and massy Pillars. When we entered we ascended several steps, 
MAR. 1672.  and went through a very stately Gate of fair white and speckled Marble; but understood very well that 〈◊〉 Christian was permitted to enter, lest they should pollute it: however being shorn after their manner, and having no discrepance of Habit whereby they might suspect me to be any other than a very Musulman, I went boldly in to view all that was to be seen, which a private Person and a Layman was permitted to view, for the innermost Vault is not to be seen unless of Princes and the Spiritualists. Above the said Vault hung several golden Lamps, which burn continually, and as the Watchmen told us the Coffins that stood below were of massy Gold. In this Sepulchre they told us were preserved the Bones of Noah and his Wife, of Shem, Ham and Japhet, together with the 5 Sons of Shem, viz, Ashur, Arphaxad, Lud, Aram and Elam, by whom the City 
* See Josephus.  Persepolis is said to be first founded of old called Elamus. This was told me by an old Persian, with whom I had some Discourse, who also said that he had the keeping of some old Registers and Antiquities. Here they also show several Skeletons and Pieces of Bones to Pilgrims in Golden Dishes, which they say are the Bones of Noah and of his Grandchild Elam [but believe it that list]  
About 2 Leagues from Chehilminar are the Ruins of some Statues, 
The Image of Rustan a Persian Champion.  and amongst others one which they say was the Image of Rustan, a persian Champion of great fame; for which reason every great Hero among them that has performed any valorous Atchieument is called ●stan, and glories as much in that, as the Greeks of old by the usurped ●me of Achilles, or the Roman Stage-players in the name of Roscius. ●his Image as also all the rest are about 3 times as great as the Life, ●●d armed with Clubbs and other ancient Armour. But to rehearse 〈◊〉 the Fables that the Persians told me of those Heros, would rather ●pair the Credit of what is already said in conformity with Truth than giv Satisfaction to the Curious; wherefore here as in many other places where I might have interspersed such Dreams, I thought good to spare the pains of relating them.   

CHAP. XXXIV. Arrival at Scyras. They meet with some Carmelites. The base dealings of those of the Caravan. The Author meets with the Thief that had pillaged him. Mr. Stru● well entertained by a French Chirurgeon. A Description of Scyras. Dive● Mestzids, or Sepulchers. The Palace of the Chan. Excellent Wine abo● Scyras. Noble Orchards. Departure from Scyras. The Special Bounty o● the Carmelites and the French Chirurgeon. Dates plentiful and cheap. How the Date-trees are propagated. Arrival at Scharim. They meet a Caravan. Assailed by night of 30 Robbers, who kill 5 Men of the Company, and at 〈◊〉 by a unanimous continuance of the Caravan force them to yield. The Robbers b● Quarter which is refused. They suffer themselves to be bound, are diversely tortured and dispatched. Great plenty of Partridges.  
AFter we had refreshed our selus and rested the Caravan, we go● all in a readiness, and the first day towards the Evening came● the Village Alikon, which we found well plenished with all necessaries and Refreshments for our selus, and good Provender for o● Horses and Camels. Thus having spent the fore part of the nig● in mirth and divertisement, we took our rest, and the next d● pursued our Journey coming on the 8 of March to Scyras, where brought the Goods of the East India Company into their Ware-hou● there.  
So soon as I was arrived at Scyras I came to understand that the● was a Monastery of Carmelites in the Town who had been always friendly to Christian Passengers and Travellers in assisting them with th● advice, etc. Whereupon I went to find out the Convent, and bei● come got speech with 2 of them who received me very kindly, a● desired me to lodge in the Convent so long as I stayed at Scy● and treated me all the while with all the Delicacies they cou● get, and the Wine that the Country afforded. The one was a● Italian of the City of Naples by name Felicello; the other a Pole fro● Warsaw and called Jadistau.  
During my abode here our Caravans Company had made unanimous resolution among themselves not to proceed on their Journey with me, and that upon very slender and weak pretences: they had already received half their Moneys at Ispahan, and we were not half way by much: but whether it was because my Money was stolen, or because (perhaps) that they feared to be examined about the Theft when we came to Gameron and so condignly punished, I cannot determine: But whatsoever their Reason was, they left me there at a great loss, so that I was fain to seek out a new Conduct, and supply myself with fresh Camels and Horses, which without the help of the 2 Monks had been impossible for me to accomplish.  
The third day after my arrival at Scyras I went without the Town to walk, and accidentally found the Thief who had stole my Moneys, and with the help of his Brother had so misused me, as was said before, bathing himself in the River, so that seeing so fair an opportunity to revenge the Villainy, I ran towards him and with a Damaskin Scymiter I always wore, gave him an excellent Cross on the Cheek, and besides that lent him a few slashes about his back and shoulders, which don I took his clothes and cut them all to patches, ●o that the poor Caitiff was fain to go mother naked into the Town. I threatened him also to write to Ispahan, and make complaint at Court, and in order thereto to address myself to the Chan of Scyras to dispatch the Letters. This it seems put him into such Consternation as well as his Companions, that he durst not appear abroad to challenge me for any injury done him, fearing, perhaps, upon my address to the Deputy that they would be secured till further Information: nor did I ever see him since.  
Besides the gentle Reception and the great kindness these Friars showed me, I was kindly treated by one Doctor Robin, a Frenchman, which the Persians called Hakim Robin, for Hakim in their Tongue is as much as to say Doctor: but his first name I cannot remember. This same Gentleman, I must confess, showed me great friendship, and sent a Letter for me to Holland enclosed in his own. So that in the hardest and greatest extremities I ever found some Friends, and when I was almost in despair of ever returning to my pristin State, and plunged in the most grievous Miseries, obtained nevertheless by the Providence of Almighty GOD, some unexpected Sublevation; that I should know what it is to be miserable, and what it is to be thankful.  
The Land round about Scyras is very fertile, produces great plenty of Corn and Fruit, but abov all is eminent for the rich Vineyards; insomuch that this Place and Country has got the name beyond all the Provinces in Persia for delicate Wine, surpassing not only the Candian and Canary-Wines but all the Wines in the World for a delicate taste, relish, and flavour. From hence the King of Persia and all the great Personages at Ispahan have their Wine, and hither repair the English and Dutch to market: nay, such is the esteem thereof, that notwithstanding the great abundance of the yearly product, it is as dear here as Canary Sack in the Low-countrieses. This Trade in Wines which they of Scyras have is at present so considerable that there is not so much as half an Acre together of waste ground, or hardly employed in any other use, for the Vineyards come so close to the Town that one may throw a stone from the Walls into them. Such ground as is not proper to nourish the vine they convert to Orchard use, and have many fair Arborets or Nurseries for young Fruit-Trees of all sorts, which are transported hence to other Places, the Fruit of this Country being nothing inferior to their Wines. They have abundance of Oranges, Citrons, Pomegranates, Almonds, Dates, Apples, Pears and almost all Fruits that I have seen elsewhere, insomuch that the Town of Scyras, as one beholds the Country from some high building or Tower seems to stand in the Centre of an Earthy Paradise. Without the City is a Ward inhabited by a People that came from Babylon, when that City was taken in by the Turks. Without stands a fair House built for charitable use, where all the Poor of the City that are destitute of a Meals meat may have their needs supplied at the King's charges, if they have the humility to fetch it: this House is called Aly Kapin where there are several persons in service to dress Victuals for the said use, and have as good custom as all the Inns in Scyras.  
Having stayed here a considerable time, and so nobly entertained by the said Carmelites all the while I was in Scyras, I went to take my leave of them, giving them many Thanks (the only Treasure I had by me) for their many Civilities, and setting forward on our Journey came at night to a good and very commodious Carawansera, where we took our Rest. Near this Place was a Fishpond in which some of our company got great store of Fish on a sudden, with a Hook and Line, for they were always provided therewith to use when occasion and opportunity concurred.  
The next day it blew hard and was intermixed with showers of Rain, so that we had very bad travailing and almost wearied out. Towards the Evening I happened to espy some persons driving on very hard after us, and coming nearer, to my great joy and happiness I descried that it was Father Felisello the Carmelite, and Doctor Robine, who were going for Gameron to direct some affairs they had there.  
Besides my good Fortune to enjoy the Company of such Friends I was further obliged by fresh kindnesses, they offering me always to eat with them, till we came to our Journeys end, which was no small happiness for me, considering my mean Condition, and great strait, being very short of Moneys and almost in despair of coming to Gameron with the Charge I had upon me. I cannot but tell you how much I was ashamed to be so caressed by Strangers, who had nothing to expect from me, and loath I was to be so burdensome to them of whose hands I had not deserved the smallest friendship and kindness that they manifested towards me, yet being so cruelly straitened on every hand I was forced to accept of their Offer. They held a very noble Table, and had taken along with them a great Case of Bottles full of Scyras Wine, which they spared not so long as it lasted. The Doctor had with him 3 Men to attend him and was every where highly respected, being a Gentleman of a sweet Temper, discreet and and sociable, so that my Journey seemed much shorter for his Company. This day, being as I said very bad weather, we hardly travailed 6 Dutch Miles.  
The next day setting forward we came at night to a Village called D●bba, where we set our Caravan down. This Village appeared like a Camp or Army with their Tents, the Cottages being so mean, and the highest house hardly sufficient for a tall man to stand upright, being built only of Reeds and Twigs plated like Basket-work and daubed over with clay. The Inhabitants like the Cottages they lived ●n were very poor and despicable People, insomuch that we had not much Divertisement or accommodation there. This day we hardly ●vanced 5 Dutch Miles.  
On the 4 we set forward and went over very Rocky and hilly way, ●ssing through several villages. 
Great store of Dates.  Upon those Hills grow great ●ore of Dates, and are so cheap that one may buy 100 lb. weight for the ●lue of 2 Shillings Sterl. and are both of an excellent taste and lovely ●lour. 
The strange manner of procreation of those Trees.  The Date-tree seems to have some harmony with living Animals, in their Procreation, and have also their Sexes. The Female will ●ot bear any Fruit if planted alone, so that they are always planted ●y Pairs together all along, and indeed do naturally grow so. But ●he Female growing old will not bear Fruit, unless they take a piece of the Top-branch of the Male and engraft it in the Female, which they also do to some young Trees to make them bring forth good Fruit, which would otherwise be of a bitter and odious Taste. I have ●●rther remarked that when the Male and Female are planted a small distance asunder they will lean towards each other, as if there were some mutual sympathy between them. The Inhabitants who have been, from one Generation to another, used to plant and propagate these Trees told me many remarkable things about them, which because I will not be prolix, I shall ommit. This day we travailed 7 Dutch Miles, and at night got a fair Carawansera to take our rest in.  
The next day we had very dry ground and a barren Country to pass through, and in some places rocky, so that we travailed that day no more than 5 Miles. On our way and near the Carawansera which we took up for that night, we saw great Flocks of wild Goats which some of our Company had a great mind to taste, and went out in th● Evening upon the Chase, but the Creatures were too cunning to b● catched, so that our Hunters were fain to return to the Carawanse● hungry and weary. The season being sharp and cold we laid on great pile of wood, and warmed our selus throughly.  
The day following in the Afternoon we came to a Town call● Scharim, which I presume had been anciently a City and walled i● it stood in the middle of a grove altogether of Date-Trees. It is all a Town of considerable Traffic in consideration of their Manufact●rie in Cottons, there being very many Weevers. There is also a ve● fair Marketplace, where besides the many Shops of their own M●nufactories, are several rich Warehouses of Silks and Persi● Stuffs, in which they also drive a great Trade and have correspondence with the greatest Marts in all the Country round. Besides t● great Concourse of Trading-people, they have a Market twice a we● for the Boors, which is no small advantage to the Town. Findi● this a very commodious place to rest in, we tarried here 3 days refresh our selus, and ease our Camels, Horses and Mules, having f● 3 or 4 days had very bad way and weather.  
Having sufficiently taken our rest at Scharim, we set forward a● had very good weather, travailing all the day long through a flat Cou●trey, and by the way saw many Nobleman's houses, and here a● there a Grove of Date trees, and many fair Orchards, so that th● was the most pleasant days Journey we had from Ispahan. Here 〈◊〉 met a huge Caravan consisting of a great Troop of Men, Camels Mules, and Sumpter-Horses loaden with rich Indian Wares. T● said Caravan came from Gammeron, and intended to go by the same Po● we came, being bound for Scamachy and Surwan. In this company met accidentally with a Persian who had been our Neighbour at S●machy, and delivered him two Letters, the one for my Master H● Byram which was written in Turkish, and the other for my Wife, whi● he promised to send for me by way of Smyrna. At night we ca● to have very rocky and ill way, 
The Caravan assaulted by Robbers in the Carawansera.  but found a Carawansera where we to● our rest, having travailed that day about 24 English Miles.  
When we were lay down to sleep we were surprised with abo● 30 Robbers, that came boldly into the Carawansera, with intent, as 〈◊〉 had reason to believe, to murder us all whilst we were asleep. 'T● true they did not at first make any assault but deferred their purpose till midnight, thinking perhaps, that we not suspecting them might grow supine, and judging our selus secure, grow so negligent as to fall asleep; but we thought good to set a narrow Watch and kept our selus in a readiness all the Night, with Weapons in our hand, for fear of a sudden assault. About midnight they fell in and fought outright, so that 5 of our Men lay presently under Feet, being in all 37. We fought jointly together with good Courage so that we speedily allayed their Fury. Our Party as we could observe were much stronger than theirs, yet if we had not been unanimous and faithful to one another we had not come so well of, for there was not one Man from the greatest to the least, but fought manfully and with a good ●ill, till the very last, when they ran into another Room and shut ●e Door after them, which was no small advantage to us: for, when ●e had them so penned up we knew our selus secure, there being no ●ther Passage for them to come out at. The Door we barricadoed in ●ith huge Stones, and with all our Carbines and Blunderbusses ●oured in shot upon them, so long, till they began to beg for Quarter, 
The Robbers beg Quarter.  ●hich we resolved not to giv them, but promised them the liberty 〈◊〉 come forth and to stand to our mercy. In the mean while we had observed that several of them lay dead and wounded. After they had consulted a while among themselves they resolved to comforth, but we refused to let them come all together, but one by one: keeping a narrow watch at the Door that they should not rush out altogether. Having got them out they were very patient and suffered us to ty them back to back. Those that were wounded we killed outright; and and when it began to be light we set forward on our Journey, taking the rest being abov 20 along with us, and coming to a Grove of Date-Trees, there hung them up by the heels, and stripping off their clothes ●ashed off their Noses, Ears and Hands, 
Their Punishment.  which we nailed to a Tree as Monuments and Relics of Roguery, and left the Bodies hanging. How we came to be so happy as to conquer those Villains was no small wonder to me, since there was never a man among the Company that fought with any other Order than as his Courage led him, so that we see what some will do and can achieve, when Life and Goods lie at the stake. Their Punishment 'tis true, was severe enough to let them die a lingering Death, but the Loss of our Companions was so precious to us that could we but have bethought a harder, they had been sure t● have gone that way to pot: and not have had the opportunity to pre● upon Passengers again.  
Having performed the Hangman's Office we went to our Came● and Caravan, leaving the Bodies there for an Example to their Companions. The way proved very hilly and uneven, waist and rocky being of a hard Flintstone, and indeed so uneasy that we had mu● ado to get all the Camels and Horses forward, some weary and read● to lay down, others stumbling and others straying, for the way was no beat. However in the Evening after 4 Dutch miles Travail we got Carawansera, and there resolved to take our rest. Here about we sa● great Flocks of Partridges, 
Great plenty of Partridges.  which Father Felisello who was passi● dextrous with a Birding-piece, went out to shoot, and brought 〈◊〉 many as served us for supper, which we illustrated with a Glass of delicate Scyras Wine.   

CHAP. XXXV. The incommodous Travelling over Mountains. They come into an Inn (or Carawanse● where they are well entertained. Arrival at Lar. A Description of that Tow● The Vnwholsomness of the Air and water there. The Inhabitants given 〈◊〉 Hospitality and Lovers of all kinds of Discipline and Science. Mummay Kob● a precious Balsam. Remarkable Monuments of Robbers executed. Depart● from Lar. They meet with another Troop of Robbers, whereof 7 are killed They are overtaken by Monsr. Kasenbroot. Their Arrival at Gamron.  
THe next morning being the 12 of March, we got all in a re●diness in order to our Journey, and had very steep and dangerous rocky hills to clamber over, insomuch that we durst not ke● a Horseback but were fain to alight and lead the greatest part of t● way, being in danger if the Horses should happen to stumble to 〈◊〉 dashed in pieces upon the sharp Flints which were terrible to look at in respect of their acuity and sharpness. These are a part of that Circ● of hills which encompass the famous Taurus. This day we advance● 5 Dutch Miles and got a good Carawansera.  
On the 13 we betook our selus to our Journey, and about 3 in the Afternoon got to a Carawansera. Father Felisello finding her● some sheep to be sold bought a Lamb, which althô it was in the Fast he was resolved to Feast of, saying that all Meats was dispensed with a Traveller who must eat what he can and not what he will. But this being the Birthday of the good Father he was resolved to celebrate it with a good supper, which indeed we had, and drunk good store of Wine to boot, in which we remembered the Catholic King and his Royal Highness the Prince of Orange in several healths, and that to such a Measure that we were in as good as mood a those Potentates themselves could be; in short we were so moistened within, that we slept that night without much care.  
On the 14 in the morning betimes we set forward and passed by several Pitts which were digged through from one to another under ground, so that the water ran through them all. The same Pits were well stored with Carp and other Fish which our Company angled for and took several, which served us for a Novelty at night, these Pitts or rather Ponds were conveyed by a channel or narrow Conduit to a great Stone Cistern which was near to a Carawansera, where we took our Night's rest, having that day traveled 5 Dutch Miles.  
On the 15 th'. about Noon we came into the Village Barry where we ●et down and stayed there 2 Days, finding our selus unable to go any further without a Pause, and the Camels and other Beasts almost wearied out; understanding moreover that we had very hilly and rocky way to pass over. This day we had only advanced 4 Miles [Dutch]  
On the 18 th'. betimes in the morn we left Barry, and clambered up a very steep Hill, meeting by the way some Gentlemen that were diverting themselves with the Hawk, which there, as well as in Europe, is held for a noble Game, and not a Gentleman but has his Falcon. In the Afternoon we got the height of the Hill where we found a very old Man, who neither combed nor shaved his Hair but let it grow negligently, so that it looked like a Mop. This Man as we understood afterwards was one, that lived a Heremitical and austere Life, being reputed for a Saint among the Inhabitants. The said Hermit came to me and begged that I would give him a pipe of Tobacco which I did, and got his Prayers for it. Having that day traveled 6 Leagues we came pretty late in the Evening to a Carawansera.  
On the 19 we travailed through a most pleasant Valley, where we saw many Boor's Cottages and great groves of Date-trees, on the right hand and on the left. We called at a Boor's house and would have bought of them some Milk, but the People would take no Money for it. They asked me from whence I came, I told them from Surwan Scamachy; but that being a place they had never heard of in their lives, asked me further if that were as far as Ispahan, I told them it was more than twice as far, at which they greatly wondered thinking that I must needs come from the utmost bounds of the World, these being a poor ignorant People and never travail farther than their Market Town, which is a little Grange in the Valley, and never heard tell of any Country than their own; in short they would have had me to stay longer with them, but my Time was too precious to spend in answering all they would have asked me. At night we came to the City Laar, where we took up our Resting place in the Dutch Lodge, where we found very good Convenience, and only an old Man and a Woman to look to the House and assist the Caravans, who were set there by the Company. Here I got the Chests and Cases repaired that were broken and endamaged, by the often falling of the Camels through the rocky way.  
Laar or Lar is a pretty big Town; but has no Walls to resist or endure a strong siege, save only such as are made of Bricks that are dried in the Sun, but is reasonably strong in respect of its Situation, as well as for the Fort or Castle, which is built upon a Hill on the North-side, the Walls thereof are of solid stone, and the Fort itself so seated that it can command the whole Town, having one narrow Passage to enter it, which is very steep: it is supplied with several pieces of great Ordnance, which the King sent hither from Ormus, when by the help of the English he took that City in. About Laar grow abundance of Date-trees, but no Wine, and by reason that they have no Commerce or Traffic abroad but poor, must supply themselves with Water, which, as well as the Air here about, is very unwholesome, insomuch that many times Strangers who are to make use of it for want of Wine fall sick, and are tormented with a small Worm, but long, which breeds between the Skin and the Flesh, and cannot be taken out without great pain. They showed me one that was above 5 Foot long, and not so thick as an ordinary Goos-quill. The Inhabitants of Laar are very free and sociable to converse withal, and great Lovers of Sciences and Learning. Not far from the Castle is a certain Rock out of which issues a very precious Balsem, called by the Persians, Mummay Kobas. This Balsem, or Oil, 
A most precious Balsem proceeding a Rock.  is gathered only in the Month of June about which time it runs stillatim, or drop by drop, out at a Vein. The said Rock from whence it comes is continually guarded with a strict Watch, by Order of the King, and none is suffered to touch it upon pain of Death. This Oil is reckoned and well known by experience to be the greatest Antidote against Poison in the World, althô never so strong; and is therefore held by the King as an inestimable Treasure, and never suffered to be exported out of his Dominions. The King also willing to show any of his Subordinat Princes and Deputies an extraordinary and high Favour, always sends them a few drops thereof, to make it the greater in esteem and value, and with one enjoins them, not to send it out of the Kingdom, upon pain of his displeasure. Without Laar are erected several Pillars for Monuments of the Execution of several Robbers, who had made the high Ways unfree to Travel: Half of their Bodies are set up on these Pillars, and the other half buried in the Ground, being cut asunder whilst they are still alive.  
Having tarried here 3 Nights and 2 Days, we set forward on the 22 and had very bad and rocky way. 
Abundance of Wild Swine,  We saw here great Flocks of wild Swine whereof our Company shot 2 with their Hand-guns, but durst not fetch them for fear of the Persians, that threatened to leave us if we did, for they loathe them more than Toads. We also shot several Eagles which notwithstanding they prey upon the Pigs the Persians fed heartily upon them. This day we travailed 7 Dutch Miles, 
and Eagles.  which we thought more than a diëta rationabilis, or an ordinary Stage, in regard of the badness of Way and Wether: and at night had a good Carawansera.  
On the 23 we broke up and passed by a fair Town called Pharate, which we left on the right hand. The said Town was pleasantly seated in the midst of a Grove of Date-Orange-and Lemmon Trees. 
The Caravan assaulted by Robbers.  By the way we met with a Party of Robbers who furiously set upon us, but finding themselves too weak betook themselves to flight leaving 7 Dead behind them. We also lost 2 Men of our Company that were outright killed in this Bickering, and had six wounded. The Dead we buried near the Way and bound up the wounded. At night we came to a small Village called Sarap, where we took up our night's rest, having that day advanced 6 Miles.  
On the 24 we set forward again, and at night came to a great Village which we took up for our Stage, having a fair and spacious Carawansera in it. We had no sooner disburdened the Camels, but had 50 or 60 Women who came and proffered us Milk to sell, and were so importunate and troublesome, that we could not get rid of 'em, till we set the Dogs upon them. These went all with their Face uncovered, which I had not seen any Honest Women in all Persia do, except in one Village between Scamachy and Ispahan. This day we had furthered our Journey by 7 Miles.  
On the 25 we had a great and wearisome Mountain to travail over at the Foot whereof was a River which we were forced to wade through, by reason that the stone-bridge which had formerly lain over it was broken down. After we had travailed 5 Dutch Miles we took up ou● night's rest in a Carawansera. But we could here get no manner of Refreshment, the Country round about being dry and barren, producing nothing but Date-trees, that we could see.  
On the 26 towards night we came to a Grange of Fishermen of whom we bought a few for our use. We were no sooner set down but came Monsr. Kasenbroot with his Slaves riding into the Town, being sent for from Ispahan to Suratte. The night being very still we could easily hear the rushing of the main Ocean. That day we had travailed 7 Miles.  
On the 27 we went onwards, and about Noon came to a Carawansera which lay close to the shore, and could see Ships a sailing, which filled me with a more than ordinary Joy, not having seen such a comfortable sight in a long time. Hence we saw Gammeron and could distinctly discern the English and Dutch Flags fly abroad that were planted upon the Lodges. However we thought good to tarry there that night having only advanced 4 Dutch Miles, that we might enter Gammeron the fore part of the Day.  
On the 28 for the last time we made ready for the pursuit of our Journey, and in the Forenoon came into Gammeron, where we were friendly received and, I by permission of the Heer Françoys de Ha●s, than Director brought into the Companies Lodge. At my first coming every one took me for a Persian, being shorn after that manner, but hearing me speak Dutch, they asked me if I was one of those who were in the service of the Czar of Moscovia, I answered, Yes, and also gave them a full Relation of what had passed and of the great hardship I had suffered since in Slavery and otherwise, about which they were very curious and asked me divers Questions. The Director himself was also pleased to send for me into the great Hall where he welcomed me out of my Slavery, and promised to send me by the first Shipping for Batavia.   

CHAP. XXXVI. A Description of Gamron, or Bendar, and the Etymology. The great Traffic with all Nations. Vnwholsomness of the Air, and Heat at Gamron. Palepunschen an unwholesome Drink how made. The Earth dry and barren. Fertility of Kismisch. Of the Inhabitants of Gamron. A wonderful Tree growing without the City. An Indian (reputed) Saint. The best season for strangers to come and Traffic at Gamron. Merchandise brought thither by the English. The English receiv Toll with the Scach. The Hollanders trade without paying Toll. The Author falls very sick and in despair of Recovery. The kindness and bounty of L. van Akersloot to him. He recovers. Set sail from Gamron. Arrival at Maschate and a Description of that Town. The violent Heat about Maschate which renders the Air very unwholesome. Their Departure from Maskate. Arrival at Batavia. The Author hires himself for Sailmaker. Comes with 7 Ships before Bantham. Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope.  
GAmeron is also by the Persians called Bendar, 
Description of Gammeron▪  which is as much as to say, The Key of the Kingdom, like the Name Derbent, already mentioned. It lies in 27 degr. Northerly Latitude upon the Gulf of Persia: on each side stand 2 Castles built after the old manner of Fortification, but very strong and able to command the Haven from side to side: they are also well supplied with Men and ●ave good store of Ammunition. That part of the Town which lies toward the Country is munited with a reasonable strong Wall; and has without at a convenient Distance several Redoubts, to defend the Upper Quarter of the City; There is also a considerable strong Redoubt. on the Coast. Gammeron is in respect of its commodious site become a very famous Emporium and that on a sudden, being lately a poor small Town, inhabited by Fishers It is frequented by Indians, 
The Strong Trade at Gammeron.  Moors, English, French and Hollanders, who drive here a mighty Trade which three last have their Houses of Residence next to the shore, and stand very Convenient for loading and unloading of Goods. Gammeron is a place subject to a very unwholesome Air being a hot Climate: the Heats continuing violent from May till September which is the reason that so many Strangers either die or dwindle away with a lingering Disease, which if they once get, it will hardly leave them, althô they should change the climate. Besides the Unwholesome Airs and Damps, there are many Strangers who destroy themselves with drinking of a Liquor much in use there called Palepunshen, being compounded of Arak, Sugar, and Raisins, which i● so bewitching that they cannot refrain from drinking it, if they on● come to taste it, being very delicious and tempting. It occasion a Giddiness in the Head, Fevers, and Fluxes, and is so corros● that some who have drunk immoderately of it and died, being op●ned, their Bowels were gnawed through and through. The scorching Heat of that Clime also renders the Earth very dry and barren so that there is little or nothing that grows about it, save only Dates, which like best in sandy and dry ground, but as for Garden● they are very rare to be seen except here and there a little one whic● with great trouble and continual Watering bring forth a few Potherbs, and Roots. However they are very well supplied with many sorts of Refreshments, as Citrons Oranges, Pomegranates, Peaches, Apricocks, Grapes, Almonds, Apples, Pears and other Fruits as well as Plants, which grow upon the Island Kumish, about thre● Leagues from Gammeron; but their most usual Diet is Fish. The Inhabitants go almost quite naked by reason of the great Heat, 
Of the Inhabitants of Gammeron.  and a● of a tawny yellowish Colour. The Women adorn their Arms, Noses, and Ears with Rings and Plates of Gold, Silver, Copper, and Iron every one according to their ability.  


〈…〉  
〈…〉 Hillang●e Logic.  
〈…〉 〈◊〉.  
〈…〉.  
5. 〈◊〉  
〈…〉.  
〈…〉.  
8 E●n 〈◊〉.  
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10 D' 〈…〉.    

JUL. 1672.  On the 18 of July I was visited with a most violent burning Feave● which raged so cruelty that I grew desperate, for I felt myself eve● day weaker and weaker, 
The Author taken very sick of a burning Fever.  wherefore supposing, notwithstanding t● contrary opinion of many, that if I should change the Air, tha● should change the Air, that I should recover, and therefore g● one to address himself to the H●er Director de Haas and in my na● intercede that I might go for Batavia with the Ship N●ytsenbur● which lay ready for sail. The Director was pleased to give order th● I should go aboard which was matter of Joy for me, fearing if I ha● stayed much longer that I should have taken my leave of the Worl● Thus I was brought aboard, and met there with one Laurence 〈◊〉 Akersloot, who asked me from whence I was? I told him, From Wa●mer; he told me that he was also born near Wormer, and for o● Country's sake gave me his Cabin, charging his Servant th● when I called for either Spanish, or other Wine that he should dra● it for me, and serve me with what I had occasion for; this kindness I have great reason to remember and be thankful for, being an unspeakable Trouble to him, who lay so long in a place where he w● ill at ease, nor did he ever fail or decline to the very last. Mean wh● I lay very disconsolate and so ill that the Doctor had given me ove● I was so swollen that the Cabin where I lay was too narrow for m● I therefore prayed the Doctor to let me blood, but he refused, saying that if I came to die, it would be said that he was the occasion 〈◊〉 it, however I still persisted, till at last he was fain to condesce● So soon as I was let blood I found myself abundantly eased, 
He recovers.  and fr● time to time grew better, althô 'twas very long before I was restore to my former strength. The Carpenter of the Ship was also at t● same time struck with a violent Fever and died by the Way.  


1. d' Vimarckt.  
2. d' Strant versié met veel Coopmans' waren.  
3. Tw●● Hollantse Sche●pen.    
In the Months of August and September it is here so incredible hot and scorching, that I am not able to express the condition that Strangers are in, being as if they were in boiling Cauldrons, or in sweating Tubs, so that I have known many who not able to endure the Heat would jump into the Sea, and remain there till the Heat of the day be over. During the time of my abode there the Heer Padberg came as Envoyé from the Lord General, to establish the Commerce and Trade of the Company on a better foot at Moschate: but he had not made an end of that Affair when we left the Place.  
On the Third of August we set sail, 
AUG.  and on the 22 got sight of the fast Land, and Cape Comorine, which is a fair Promontory on the Malabar Coast. We directed our course thence for Ceylon, and so for Batavia.  
On the 28 we got the Straits of Sunda, where we met several Javaners that came aboard us, and bartered Fish, Coconuts, Piesang, Ananasses, and other Fruits for Iron Hoops. The Day following we got the height of Toppers Angle, 
Arrival at Batavia.  and on the 30 came into the Road of Batavia.  
On the first of September, 
SEPT.  I went ashore and so directly to the General and Council to return them my humble Thanks for their unspeakable Favour and Goodness in redeeming me from the woeful Estate of Slavery, with promise of returning the Moneys disbursed upon my return home, which in the year 1673 I faithfully performed.  
On the 27 I went to list myself in the Companies service for Sail-maker for 18 gilled per Month aboard the Ship called De Hollandtsche Tuyn.  
On the 15 of October we received Order with 6 other Ships to cruse upon the English and French Ships before Bantham. 
OCT.  Mean while I longed so to see my Wife and Children that I had no more enjoyment myself, 
OCT. 1672.  so long as we made such delay: wherefore I assumed 〈◊〉 boldness to send 2 Letters, one to the Heer Spelman then Ordin● Council for the Indies, and another to the Heer Piete● van Hoorn, humbly begging that I might be dismissed my present service and be se● home; which they were graciously pleased to assent to, and gave ord● that I should embark myself aboard the Flyboat Nieuw poorte ● return to Batavia and so to go aboard the Ship Europa: wherewith set sail on the 4 of February 1673, 
FEB. 1673.  in Company with the Ship Te●veer, as Admiral; The Alphen, Vice-Admiral, and Pynaker, Rear Admiral, besides the Ships Starmeer, and Papenburg. We directed our Course W. and by S. through the Straits of Sunda.  
On the 5 we came before Bantham and found there the 7 Ships which were crusing before that place for the English and French.  
On the 6 we found our selus without the Straits of Sunda, and se● our Course directly South-South-West till we came in the height of ● degr. then altered, and bore up W. S. W. till we came at 28 degr. a● than set our course directly South till we came at 32 degr. which is the height of C. de Bona Esperanza where on the 15 of April we arrive● in the Bay, 
Arrival at Cabo de Bona Esperance.  and found theresom Ships that were bound for the Indi● coming from Holland. Here we first heard the doleful news that the French had already made themselves Masters of 3 of the 7 Province, that the 2 De Wits, the Pensionary and Ruart of Putten were sadly massacred in the Hague; as also that his Royal Highness the Prince of Ora● was made Erf-Stadt-houder, or Lord Deputy Haereditary.   

CHAP. XXXVII. Their Departure from the Cape of Good Hope. The Ship Europa taken by th● English. The English take the Island of St. Helena, and 2 Dutch Ships more Th● Author warns the rest of the Ships. Three Dutch Ships scape a scouring. Arrival at Ascension. Abundance of Tortoises on that Island. A Description of the said Island. It's Vnfruitfullness and want of fresh water. A Debate ●e● among the English to leave the Dutch upon the Island. Departure from Ascension. Arrival at Kingsale in Ireland. Their Departure from thence, Arrival at Bri● and finally at Home.  
WE tarried here till the 17 of May, on which day we received an Order from the Governor to depart with the Ship Europ● for the Island St. Helena, 
MAY. 1673.  which Island he had taken from the English about 14 Weeks before. The rest of the Ships were to follow us in 7 or 8 days time, and so to sail together for Holland.  
Thus having a brisk Gale of wind we hoist sail, and had aboard us one Captain Br●denbach who was to be Governor of St. Helena, We set our course North-West and on the 21 of May being Whitsuntide came before Saint Helena, but coming just in at the Bay we found we had got a wrong Sow by the Tail, finding instead of our own, 7 great English Men of War, with a Fireship and 3 Merchant Men. The English finding us within Shot did so welcome us with their upper and lower Tires, that we were presently quit of Hopes, Ship and Goods. They gave us Nutmegs enough, but those were so cruel hard that we could not grate (much less digest) them with our wills: In short they shot so hotly upon us that we had several Men on a sudden killed and many wounded. We had aboard us about 50 Men and had not above 5 or 6 Guns that we could use. Being thus in a great Strait and not knowing what to do having no leisure to consult, it was resolved that we should board the Assistance an English Friggat of 48 Guns, which followed us with the Fireship. Hereupon our Captain gave order that the Hatches should be shut and nailed up, that none might creep out of the way, 
The Ship Europa taken by the English and plundered.  but unanimously to fall upon our Enterprise: yet when all was done we came short of Ammunition, and were at last fain to surrender our selus, Ship and Goods to the Mercy of the English, who never left firing upon us with 12 and 18 Pounders.  
The English were no sooner come aboard but they fell a plundering us, searching so narrowly that I knew no longer how to conceal the Jewels which my Patroness Altine had given me, being Ten Bruto, or rough Diamonds, for I had sold one at Batavia, which was the meanest, for about 1000 gl. And now that good Treasure, which I had so long hid, and secured from Thievish hands, lay at Stake for an Offering to impious Mars, and finding that they began to make a new Search, I called an Englishman aside, and told him that I had so many rough Diamonds, which if he would please to take and hide for me, I would give him 5, upon further Condition that he would be faithful to me and redeliver me the other back again when we arrived in England: but abov all to keep the matter secret. He promised me with many Protestations that he would. In the mea● while the English continued plundering and breaking up the Chests, throwing the rich Silks and Cottons so on Heaps, that we coul● hardly yet a passage through. My Treasurer was a while very faithful and still, but coming accidentally to get drunk, revealed our Secrets to another of his Mess-Mates, hoping that it would go no further; but it was not long before it came to the Captain's Ear who without the least warning came and commanded the Chest to be broken up, where he found the Stones: and gave the Ass half a Hundred Blows on the Ribs for his pains: and so was I bereft of the last and best Treasure I had. The only thing they left me was my Papers and Journal, which was not without much Entreaty: a poor Abstract for so many years' Misery, having inclusiuly no more to thank (nay much less) the Christians than the Mahometans and Pagans, save for my Slavery; for which I may not blame any in particular, it being a general Rule among them to convert such as they hold for Heteredox to Slaves.  
Thus being newly delivered out of one misery I was immediately involved in another; and so far might this despair have wrought wit● me, that had it not been the Goodness of GOD to endue me with● more laudable and a more pious Principle, I could have willingly thrown myself praecipitantly out of the World; being weary of Life, and as unwilling to embrace the greatest Solace that can be expected, yea, or enjoyed in this wearisome Pilgrimage to the Grave, which puts an end to all corporal Afflictions, and the Haven whither we are all a failing, howsoever we be provided for that Spiritual Mart. Nor do I doubt but that those who shall have the Patience to read these Memorials, will imagine my Misery to have been great. B● I farther praesume that they in the most earnest contemplation of thi● Schaeme of anxiferous and calamitous Events that from time to time have befallen me, will never be such real Compatients as to surve the amaritude of my Sufferings by the Scale of their Thoughts and Censures. Yet welcome, most welcome, be the Decrees of the most glorious LORD of Life; and HE out of his immense Bounty grant me patience to suffer what he is pleased to inflict upon me, how severe so ever it be.  
Eight days before our Arrival there had the English taken in the Island, being forced to put in there for want of Water: not knowing any thing to the contrary, 
JUN. 1673.  but that it was still in possession of their own Nation, and were sent out to convoy their East-India Ships howeward: but coming into the Bay were not a little surprised, that they were saluted with Balls in stead of loose Powder. However the English were resolved to come ashore some way or other, for they were destitute of Water, all the 7 Ships of War and the Merchantmen with the Fire Ship hardly able to make out 15 Hogsheads of Water, and were besides that at a great loss for Refreshments, having been long off at Sea to and again. The Admiral therefore gave command to attempt an entrance at the South side of the Island, where it was so narrow that they could not go abov 4 in a rank, insomuch that if the Hollanders could have miss so many men out of the Fort, might have knocked them all down with Stones, with 50 or 60 Men, so that the English invaded the Island unmolested. The Governor seeing that they were surprised, and he unable to defend himself against so great a Power, surrendered upon Articles and Composition. This was the Relation of the English.  
On the 4 of June the English got two Ships more of the 5 that followed us with another coming from Ceylon, who, not knowing any thing to the contrary but that the Hollanders were still Masters of the Island, came sailing without any dread directly thither from the Cape. For the English had planted the Prince's Flag aloft, and a Red Flag on the High way, which was a private Token that the Hollanders had among themselves. When I remarked what the meaning of all this was, and how easily our Ships would be deceived, I went to the Shore, where I espied the Ships not abov half a Dutch league distant, and immediately pulled of my Shirt and set it upon a Stick, that at lest they might begin, if they should have the Fortune to see it, to consider well with themselves, what such might import; but it seemed that they took no notice of it, or else did not see it, otherwise it had been time enough for them to have scaped the Scouring. 'Twas not long before I was spied by two English Sentinels, who came in all haste, and beat me after a most lamentable manner: which when they had done brought me before the Governor, who asked me, what I meant by that Token, I told him with great liberty, That I thought it my duty to warn my Nation from the Peril which they were ready to run in, and that I supposed that if, I had been an Englishman and had known them under the like Circumstances I should have done no more than what I was bound to do. To which the Governor smiling replied; That I did honestly and deserved to be commended, but withal charged me not to transgress any more, and so let me go without any further Trouble. Whence we may learn what difference there is, between drinking at the Fountain, and drinking at the Current.  
Mean while the Ships came on undauntedly; and were hardly sailed within the Bay, but descried a Lion in an Ass' Skin, in stead of an Ass in a Lion's Skin, and discerned a Wolf's Body with a Sheep's Voice, the Colours they saw spoke good Dutch, but the Ships danced an English Jig, wherefore they thought it best to tack about and make all the sail they could: which the English perceiving, out after them all in a Body, and took the Admiral and Vice-Admiral, but the Rere-Admiral and the other 2 made their Escape, and could not be overtaken. The Admiral behaved himself with good courage, and had probably not been taken if his Mizzin Peek had not been brought by the board. The Ship that engaged and took him was the West-Freezlandt, being formerly a Dutch Ship and taken by the English in the year .1665, and was now mounted with 54 Guns. Our Admiral would fain have boarded her but could not, for the English poured incessantly upon them with small shot, insomuch that he was fain to yield, the Commander himself being wounded in the Leg.  
The next day we were ordered to go aboard directing our Course for Ascension Island, which serve the English for a Rendezvous, where we arrived on the 19 of june. Here the Men went to take Tortoises, which are there in very great abundance, some of 200 and some 300 lb. weight. These Creatures are Amphibious, that is to say, living as well by water as by land; but by night come upon the Strand where they lay their Eggs, which are by the heat of the Sun engendered in the sand.  
The Island Ascension lies in 8 degr. and 30 min. Southerly Latitude about 40 Leagues from Saint Helena. It is altogether rocky and produces nothing of growth, having in it high Hills, yet not so high as those in Saint Helena. The whole Island is white with the Dung of Mews, Cormorants, and a sort of Wild-geese that come thither to build and breed, as also to pray upon the dead Fish which lies in heaps upon the shore, and in the small Inlets, and Creeks.  
There is no fresh Water upon the Island, which if there had we had been very unhappy, for the English had intended to leave us there with a little Provision, till our own Ships should come to fetch us off: but seeing there was none, they were so kind as to carry us for England. The reason of their design to do so, was because they had very many sick aboard, and grew every day weaker and weaker by the Death of their Men: fearing therefore that we should rise and make our selus Masters of the Ship when we found an Opportunity, being about 300 Dutch in all.  
On the 23 of June we left Ascension Island, and set our Course N.W. till we came under the Aequinoctial, and then North till we came in 13 degr. which is the height of the Barbados, then steered N. and by E. till we came in 43 degr. where we altered our Course N. E. till we found that we were in 48 degr. then changed our Point N. E. and by E. till we came at 51 degr. 11 min. than steered East till we had 51 degr. 20 min. and the next day got sight of Ireland, and the day following arrived safe at Baltamore, which is a very fair Haven and good Anchor-ground, as also a safe Harbour for Shipping against all Winds. Being arrived here the Captains gave us liberty to go where we liked, so that some of our Men went over Land for Kingsale.  
On the 26 we had news of the Engagement between the English and Dutch. The day following I set forward with some of our Company afoot over land, passing through many fair Towns, as Balthamore, Top, Ross and others.  
On the 28 we came at the Castle Till Britton, where we stayed all night, and the next morning betimes set forward on our Journey, and about noon came to Kingsale, being one of the most commodious Havens and strongest Place that I had seen in all Ireland. The Haven is sufficient to contain a considerable number of Shipping, as at our being there were 80 or 100 sail laying at Anchor, all Ships of a great Burden. The City its self is also strongly Walled and has an impraegnable Fort. We tarried here 10 days, and set forward again for Cork, where we happily found a Ship ready to sail for Bristol. Cork is a fair City and the Metropolitan of the Province of that name, being also a Bishops Seat. The Master received us aboard, and in the Afternoon set sail, and that night came to Anchor before Cow, which lies about 5 Leagues from Cork.  

AUG. 1673.  On the 10 betimes in the Morning we weighed, and had a brav● Gale of Wind. About Noon we descried a small Vessel which w● praesumed was a Dutch Privateer, but ours being a good sailer outstrips her far. The next day we found ourselus in St. George's Channel, and about the Evening came before Bristol. On the 12 I went ashore and pursued my Journey afoot to London, where on the 15 I arrived, and stayed 3 Days, viewing to my great astonishment the City all rebuilt after a magnificent manner, being not long before in Rubbish and Ashes by a dreadful Fire, that happened in the year 1666, but now appearing with a far greater lustre than before. From London I travailed to Harwich passing through many fair Villages and a most delightful Country. And from hence embarked for Holland, where after many Miseries and Perils, by the Goodness of Almighty GOD, I embraced my Wife and Children on the 7 of October, in the year 1673.  Anchora de prora jacitur, stat littore puppis.  
THE END.   

The Copy of a NARRATIV, Written from aboard the Ship EAGLE, belonging to his Imperial Majesty the Czar of Moscovia, riding at Anchor before ASTRACHAN upon the River Wolga, bearing date September, XXIV, M DC LXIX, O. S.  
ON the 28 of May we left Moscou and with a small Boat fell down the River Occa, till we came at Dedenof, being the Wharf where the Ship and Yacht were built which we found ready for a Launch.  
ON the 6 of june we set sail with our Ship, and Yacht coming the day following before Nisen Novogorod, where the River Occa incorporates with the Wolga. In the mean while we had run our selus a ground three or 4 Times, but that was more through the unskilfulness of the Pilot than the Badness of the River, which is deep and navigable: as also on each side inhabited and grown with Woods. The name of the Gentleman who resided at Nisen as Waywood, or Governor, was Maxim Ivanowitz Nachokkin, who made us very welcome and according to their custom sent us several Dishes of Meat, also during the time we lay there at Anchor came several times aboard us; and at our departure convoyed us down some part of the River, and supplied the Officers with Necessaries and Refreshments.  
HAVING the advantage both of Wind and stream we arrived the First of July, before the mouth of the River Casanka, which is about a mile from Casan. Here we broke our Cables, and with much ado made fast to the shore with a single Rope: We had also lost our Bowspriet among the Trees in falling down the Occa. The Waywods' name of Casan was jurien Petrovitz Trobieskay, a liberal Gentleman and not at all incomitable; he treated us several Times at his own House, and upon our Departure gave us some Provision aboard us. After 15 days abode here we loosed and passed by several fair Towns, as Camuschinka, Dosoroska and others too long to relate. This said Camuschinka is lately built by Order of the Czaar, being fortified Diamond wise by Colonel Thomas Bailey, an English Gentleman: It's end is to prevent the Irruption of the Cosacs', the River Camuschinka running into the Don.  
ON the 13 of August we got sight of Astrachan, and on the 14 came before the Town where we gave the Salvo with all our Cannon and 60 Muskets, and in the Evening dropped Anchor in the Road, near the Town. We had before got Intelligence how that the Cosacs' had appeared upon the Wolga, but coming to Astrachan were further informed how that the Russes were gone out against them, in which Expedition were 50 Stroegs and about 3000 Men, under the Command of Knees Simeun Ivanowitz Geboof, who was the third Voice, or suffrage of Astrachan. It is now 3 years since the first rising of the Cosacks in which time they have depopulated many fair Towns upon the Caspian Sea, and about a year agone had taken in jaick, a City belonging to the Czar, where they had besides many Insolences committed killed and dispatched abov 8000 Men by cruel and unheard- of Torments, amongst whom was one Dutch Officier, of known fame for his good Conduct.  
IN Persia they had taken in and demolished 3 Cities, and most barbarously massacred the Inhabitants, and growing both in number and power were become very formidable, both to the King of Persia and the Great Duke. They were headed by one Stenko (or Stephen) Radzin, a discontented Person and one of great Power, as to his proper Abilities, bearing a Sovereign Aw among them. About 14 days before our Arrival at Astrachan, he had taken a costly Persian Boes, valued at several Tuns of Gold, in which were Horses and several other Presents sent from the King of Persia to the Great Duke of Moscovy.  
ON the 17 as the Waywod of Astrachan was aboard our Ship came an Express, bringing news that Radzin and the Cosacs' had submitted themselves to the Great Duke, upon which the Waywod gave order that we should fire our Guns, which we did. The said Letters further mentioned how that they had delivered the Horses belonging to the Great Duke to the Russian General.  
ON the 19 came 3 Cosacs' into Astrachan in very costly Attire and with great pomp, whereof the youngest was the Orator. The Waywood after a long Treaty assured them of being established in the Great Duke's Favour. But it seemed that they had some disgust, because they were not formally introduced, as is customary with all Ambassadors and Legates. The Waywod excused it, saying That he himself was a Bojar, and resided there in quality of Waywod, yet at his first taking that Dignity upon him was not introducted by his Predecessor, nor the Nobility of Astrachan, which was Argument and Token that he was not to do the like to others. When the Conference was over, the Waywod invited them to his House and gave them a splendid Treat.  
ON the 21 early in the Morning came the Russian Fleet before the Town consisting of 53 Stroegs, or Rowing-Barks: upon each Stroeg was only one Piece of Ordnance, but those in the Rear had 2, to wit, one before and another aba●t Aboard each were so many Strelitzers (which are the Soldiery) that they could not mov if there had been occasion, to do any execution. The said Fleet by order of the Waywod came to Anchor on the other side of the River. About 3 in the Afternoon came the Cosacs', consisting in 23 Sail and a considerable number of Men. Upon their Arrival we had an order from the Waywod to receiv 200 Strelitzers aboard under our Standard, who placed themselves in order round about the Ship. The Russian Army then loosed and came before the City, giving the Salvo with all their great Guns at once, with abov 3000 Muskets: which the Cosacs' answered with their Cannons and Muskets; upon which they in the City put out a white Flag, which was a Token for us to Fire, which we did with all our great Guns, and about 200 Muskets. Mean while the Master of our Ship fell over board, but was taken up again, though with much ado, for the weather was a little tempestuous. Soon after the Russians gave fire a second time and came close up to our Ship; upon which we gave fire for the last time with 13 Guns and 200 Muskets. The Cosacs' rowed off, and came to Anchor where the Russian Fleet road at first.  
ON the 22 in the Morning betimes, the Cosacs' rowed up the River, and were on a sudden out of sight: and that morning issued a Proclamation that none should have any Commerce or Converse with them. On the 23 came Radzin himself in Person into Astrachan and was saluted by all the Gentry: the Waywod was also counciled to bring the Ammunition and Standard of the Rebels into the City, which he resolved upon. Mean while came news to the Waywod that Radzin was drunk, whereupon he gave order that they should endeavour by good and gentle words to get him out of Town: he being very unruly when overtaken with Liquor, in which mood he had destroyed many Men, both of his own Rout and others. But the Insolences he had committed during this Uproar cannot be recounted, althô 'tis said that besides the many Thousands of the Great Duke's Subjects he had caused to be massacred, whereof himself boasted to have dispatched 8000 at one time, he had from time to time massacred above 40000 Persians.   

The Copy of a NARRATIV, Sent from Capt. D. Butler, dated at ISPAHAN, March 6 th' 1671..  
Worthy Sir,  
AFTER a tedious delay we finally received an Order from the Great Duke to embark our selus with the Ships Company, and come to Moscou. Which being shown us I insisted continually that according to the said Order I might go up, but it was thought good that the Ship should be first put in Equippage, and supplied with Ammunition, and in case of necessity be used against the Cosacks, who under the Conduct of one Stenko Radzin as chief, had already depopulated many fair Countries upon the Caspian Sea, and then reconciled to the Great Duke. But in the Month of March came news how that the Cosacs' were again revolted, upon which Colonel Levonti Bogdonof was dispatched by the Great Duke with a Band of 800 Men, to wit, 400 Russian Cavalry and 400 Nagaian Tartars, to march to Zarit a, a City lying about 80 Dutch Miles above Astrachan; that being a City which abutts upon the Frontiers of the Cosacks, and commands the passage of the River Don, or Tanais; which River nevertheless doth not fall into the Wolga, as some have been of opinion, and as most Maps do make it, for the Cosacks do come almost a days Journey with their Boats from the Don to the Wolga, which they balance with pieces of Timber, the better to endure the violence of the stream, for they are but of one entire piece, or Trunks of Trees hollowed out. These people have the Russian Speech and the same Religion. They have also their Asyla, or Places of Refuge, granted them by the Great Duke, whither they have recourse when they have perpetrated any villainous Fact, or Enormity.  
ABOUT the 27, or 28 of April came a Narrativ by a Courier from the abovesaid Bogdanof, importing how that the Cosacks had taken in Tzaritza, and that about 1200 Moscovians were killed and drowned: but to give a full account of the Stratagems they had used to gain the Town, would make me more prolix and tedious than my present design is to be. These 1200 Strelitzers or Soldiers, were a part of those that were sent from Moscou to enforce the respectiv Garrisons upon the Wolga, but especially this City, in which the Great Duke reposed great Trust, being able to check (as I have said before) the main Passage of the Rebels, in their March for the Southeast Country.  
THE same day came news how that the Field- Tartar's were at discord and factious among themselves, and being drawn into 2 Head-parties used all manner of hostile Acts against each other, so that Bogdanof thought good to draw up and march forward to Chornojar, a City about 50 Dutch Miles from Astrachan. He had also sent down a Captiv Cosac to Astrachan who was put upon the Rack, and in such manner tormented that all had compassion of him.  
MEANWHILE all things are made ready at Astrachan, and the Shipping designed for service in this Expedition put in equippage. The Waywood also sends a Person of Quality with a Body of Soldiery to join with those under Boogdanof: these were then to be commanded by a Pole, whose name was Ivan Russinski and a Proselyte in the Russian Church, and next to him one James Wondrong, a Scotch Gentleman, born in Edenburg, aged about 33 years, and universally well spoken of, for his Piety and faithful deportment. The Dutch Officers, were Paul Dolf Captain and Engineer, with his Son in Law Lewis Fabritius, besides Captain Robert Hind an Englishman, Nicholas Schaak my Lieutenant was also made Captain. There were also 2 Dutch Lieutenants sent upon this affair who were baptised into the Russian Church. As also 2 or 3 Ensigns. The rest of the Officers were mostly Poles and Russes.  
UPON the 25 of May being Monday in Whitsun-week the Captains departed from Astrachan in about 40 Stroegs, all under the command of Knees Simeun Ivanowitz Elboof. Each Stroeg had one Piece of Canon and all necessary Ammunition, the whole number of the Men that were aboard this Fleet (as appeared by the Musterroll) did not exceed 2600 Men, whereof 2100 were of the Strelitzers of Astrachan who have some manner of Distinction among themselves.  
THE same day the Cosac who had been so cruelly tortured was hanged up in sight of the whole Army. In the mean time the Inhabitants of Astrachan began to murmur and breath Rebellion, inciting one another against the Governor and Magistracy, which seemed to be a very bad Omen of some ill Consequence, for from that time forward they continued bolder and bolder till at length it burst out into palpable Rebellion. About this time arrived a Dutch Chirurgeon at Astrachan, who had been in the Retinue of the Moscovian Ambassador at Ispahan, of whom I bought some Silk stuffs and 480 Hides of Turkey leather, for which I immediately tendered the Money.  
ABOUT the beginning (I think the 4th day) of June came a Gentleman from Chornojar with very unwelcome News. His Message was that the same day that Knees Simeun Ivanowitz with the Russian Army was arrived before that City, the Cosacks appearing far more numerous and strong, those in the City revolted, declared themselves Cosacks, and surrendered up the Town to Radzin and the Rebels. He added further, That all the loyal Officers who endeavoured to dissuade them there from, were most inhumanly massacred. This sad Express, although smothered as much as was possible by the Waywod and Council of Astrachan, was nevertheless come to the knowledge of the Townsmen, who were very impatient to bear the yoke of Obedience any longer. Upon this news I was sent for by the Waywood, who asked me if my Men were able to manage the Cannon, and gave order that in the first place all the Cannon should be visited that lay upon the Walls, and to repair those that were defectiv which was forthwith done.  
ON Thursday the 5th of June, we left the Ship, and brought all the Goods in the Fort, by order of the Governor, our Gunner also loaded a great part of the Ordnance. Still continued whispering and murmuring against the Governor, so th● neither He, nor the Council, durst appear without doors for fear of an Uproar. T● Chirurgeon of whom I have already made mention, having been conversant abo● 14 years with the Russes, and not unacquainted with their tumultuous spirits, to● me, he could easily foresee that the City would be betrayed ere long, if the Commo● sort did not see better marks and clearer evidence of Security; and without dou● we that were Strangers and in service of the Great Duke must expect some woft Catastroph: and therefore since our Pay was retracted, and our service only abode the Ship, and not in the Land Army, it was more advisable to betake ourselves ov● the Caspian Sea to the Persian Coast. I had already ordered our Men to buy up ● Month's Provision of Necessaries, fearing a Siege.  
UPON this Motion of the Chirurgeon I summoned up my Officers and to● Council together with them, what was best to be done in this case: they unanimous resolved that it was more secure to betake ourselves to flight, since we had no Pay, and therefore not under any obligation to serve the Duke by Sea, much less by Land. They were willing to leave all they had at Astrachan except only their clothes, b●cause it would be an encumbrance: yet because I had many costly clothes and other Goods, they resolved to take as much as they could with them, and packed all ● in a great Portmantle and a Trunk which I had, besides two little Chests, which assented to. Every one took as much Provision of Bread in his own Portmantle ● he thought might serve him; and it was resolved that we should leave none behind save only 2 Seamen, who had each a Wife and a young Child. On Friday in the Afternoon my best Things were brought aboard, it being intended that we sho● depart that night, which the two Seamens Wives coming to perceive would by a means go with us. But I weighing well the Enterprise with myself, and considering the danger of adventuring with 22 Persons more, in a Shallop of 26 Foot long I thought it not good to essay the matter. I had with me one Christian Brand ● Gunners Mate, with whom I resolved to stay and see what the event would be ● Astrachan, and (if our fate was such) to die on the Bed of Honour, rather th● to flee we knew not whither. This I intimated to the Master and the Doctor who also were content to venture their Lot. Immediately I sent a Seaman to the Maste● Mate aboard the Shallop to acquaint them with the Alteration of my Resolution; but that night the Gates were shut sooner than the customary hour; so that he could not get speech to them. This put me into some doubt, fearing that they might p● off without me: but the Master and two Seamen persuaded me to the contrary saying they would never have the boldness to go without me which for that time ma● me rest contented. That Evening I went the Rounds with the Viceroy upon the Walls of the Castle, which was laid o'er with Heaps of Stones, to use in case of Storm.  
ON the seventh of June, being Saturday early in the morning, I sent a Seaman to the Ship again with some private Instructions; but he making some delay, and I not have the patience to wait any longer went myself, with the Chirurgeon, and found that they were gone off with the Shallop. The Master and the rest were (or seemed to be) surprised at the matter, as not believing they would have had the boldness ● go without further order. 'Tis true it seemed not so strange to me being only that I expected from them. However we concluded it the safest way for our own security to acquaint the Waywod with the matter, before he should come to hear ●t from others, and with one to let him know the reason. But he who was my Interpreter was also fled with them, so that I was fain to make use of the Chirurgeon before mentioned. Having acquainted the Governor with what had passed, he ●ow'd himself outwardly not to be much concerned, especially when I told him that they were not gone over to the Cosacks.  
THE same day came a Courier with an Express from Moscou, being the same Gentleman who had brought the news how that the Russes about Zaritsa were revolted. This Gentleman's name was Danile Tourlekojof, and had been formerly with me aboard our Ship upon the Wolga, between Casan and Astrachan, and intimated me with privacy how that the Revolting Party had used the Lieutenant General and other Russian Officers after a most barbarous manner, and that Astrachan itself, as well as all the Country round about, was already betrayed: but further said he not.  
THE day following, being the 9th of June, I received an order from the Governor ● visit the Fortifications of the City. The like orders had an English Colonel, ●ho was come hither from Terki which City was was also fortified anew by the said Coll, being situated in the Land of the Circas-Tartars, about 2 Leagues from the Caspian Sea: The old City, or Castle, as Adam Olearius writes, was first built and fortified by one Cornelius Claasz, a Hollander. This Gentleman had the charge of one Quarter committed to him, and myself the other, to repair it so, that the Men might be secure. Soon after came the Waywod himself in person and desired our Advice what to do for Security of the Town. The English Gentleman's advice was to make some Outworks without the Walls: but I advised him to make Proclamation that all such as had any way revolted or engaged themselves to the Cosac Party should be pardoned, and declared free Remmissionaries, in case they would come and submit themselves to the Governor, and that the Townsmen should have some money distributed among them, and the most popular to be drawn in by promise of Advancement and the like; so that those being leading Men might appease the rest: However my advice in that was rejected.  
MEAN while a narrow Watch was held, and the Soldiery lay all night upon the Walls, and 2 Men at every Porthole, to be ready in case of a silent Attacque.  
THE Persians, Calmuc-and Circas-Tartars, under conduct of a Persian Gentleman, who was there upon his way to the Court at Moscou, upon an Ambassage from the King of Persia, did also their utmost endeavours to assist us, and passed away the night with Music, Dancing and other Mirth. The Post assigned them was the Poet Nietze Basna, being the Bulwark where they usually torture their Malefactors.  
ON Sunday, being the 15 th'. of June I was invited to dinner with the Waywod. When the Table was done he gave me a Present, to wit, a yellow Silk Coat, 2 pair of Breeches and 2 shirts, that being the Custom of the Russians upon extraordinary Occasions [forsooth] He also made me many fair promises, besides the freedom of his House and Table for my Good service, having about 100 Men un● my Conduct: nor did I appear too remiss in my duty, for I went the Rounds eve● night ofter than my Order and Injunction was.  
THE Thursday following, being the 19 th'. we had Intelligence how that the Cos● Forces were greatly increased and that they were a Marching towards us; which ne● continued and was confirmed by a continual recourse of Land- Tartar's and Fishe● into Astrachan. There was also a false rumour spread about the Town, as if o● Men that were fled had loaden the Cannon that lay upon the Walls with loose Po●der, others that it was with Balls and no Powder, and a third, that it was first w● Balls and then with Powder, all which coming to the Governors' Ear he sent h● me, but coming to worm the Guns in his presence found it was but a false and malicious report raised by some prejudiced Persons to cast an odium upon them and 〈◊〉 turn me out of Favour.  
ON Friday the 20 th'. of June, the Waywod made me Lieutenant Coll. in place of James Wondram, which by provision I took upon me, but being not well pleased with my Charge, the Coll. who observed it, seemed a little discontented, and said in presence of the Governor. That it was not now a fit time to solicit in for s●d things, whence I collected that be thought that I had made it my business to be advanced, but was soon after better informed, when he would himself have confirms me in the Regiment and I with great earnestness declined it. The Post which wa● assigned me was in the same Quarter with the Coll. on the Tartarian side, whe● the Fort was the weakest.  
ON Sunday, June 22 came the Cosacks within sight of Astrachan, and sent Cosac Trumpeter with a Russian Priest to demand the Town. The said Cosac had also a Letter for me in Dutch, wherein I was advised not to fight with my Men, if I hoped for Quarter, or Mercy at their hands. The said Letter was taken from me by the Waywod, before I had read it quite out, and torn in Pieces. The Trumpeter and Priest had Gaggs put in their Mouths, that they should cause no commotion or alteration among the Commons; and were soon after beheaded.  
ON Monday came the Cosac-Army with about 300 Keels, great and small close to the City, putting in at a River near the Vineyards that lie about half a Leag● from the Walls of the Town. Upon this we set the Tartarian Tents on fire. Meanwhile I stood upon the top of the Governors' house, with the Governor himself, and casually espied several Boats in the River before the Town: I therefore advised the Governor not to let them tarry there for althô they were but Fisher's Boats yet they might give intelligence to the Enemy; wherefore he gave order immediately to sink them, which was forthwith put in execution. That afternoon the Persian and Circas-Tartars had taken 4 Cosacks, who were put to the Rack and after confession, two were hanged up, and other two beheaded in presence of the Governor.  
THE day following the Colonel would have confirmed me in the Office I the● supplied, to wit, as Lieutenant Colonel which I nevertheless declined as before. This same day about noon the Great Duke's Factor presented us with a Pipe of strong Beer, and a Quantity of Tobacco, which we distributed among the Soldiers to give 'em Courage and keep them content. In the forepart of the night I went with the Chirurgeon to do the Rounds, which don I lay me down to sleep a little in my Tent but was quickly awaked with the Alarm, which gave notice how that the Cosacks approached to begin their first storm, which happened about 3 a clock at the Wosnasinske Gate, where our Shipmaster and the Waywods' Brother had the watch. The first I espied was a square Body of the Enemy who approached very near, upon which I gave fire with our 12 Pounders, and was seconded by those of the next Post, who shot very fast. Interim came the English Colonel Baily to me in great haste with most of the Dutch and Germane Officers, bringing news how that the City was already betrayed. The Colonel was himself wounded on the cheek with a Pike, as also in two or three places on his Leg, for being all in Armour they could not hurt him elsewhere: and this he said was done by our own Soldiery. He told me further that he had done his utmost endeavour to pacify them and if it were possible to cast an odium upon the Cosacks, as Rebels; but was fain to smother all his reason sore against his will and at last glad to come off with his Life. After a small conference together I advised the Colonel to go again to his Post, and see if the persuasion of other Officers had wrought any thing upon the Strelitzers: but the next news I heard was that the Strelitzers had massacred all the Officers, which grieved me most highly, because that they had adventured their persons by my advice. Neither did this bloody Action hold up with that, for it came forward so far that Captain Wederos who had the next Post to me was taken by his own servant, pinioned fast and afterward in most cruel manner murdered by his Soldiers. The Chirurgeon of whom I have already made mention seeing this, would have thrown himself off the wall to avoid the danger of those bloody Traitors; but I did all I could to withhold him, and at last called to mind a certain Porthole just under the Tower which might serve us for an Exitus out of all those imminent dangers, in which we had certainly suffered if we had not taken care betimes. Through this we took our way and I charged the Chirurgeon with his Servant (being a Pole) to follow me, as also two of our Ships-Folk, to wit, James Trappen, and Christian Brandt. Coming below we found there two Russes who stood Sentinel, whom I charged to let us through. These not knowing any thing of the Tumult let us through without much difficulty or Interrogations. The Chirurgeon went out before, and I followed, but knew not what became then of the two Seamen and the Pole. We were forced to wade through the Ditch to the neck, aiming at the Tartarian Field Quarters, which, as I have said, was burned up that it might not be an advantage to the Enemy, which place we held for the most safe and secure. They shot at us mainly from the Walls, but all to little purpose for we were got pretty far without Cannon reach, at lest for single Bodies: But marching a little forward we met two men, whom we supposed to be Cosacks', the Chirurgeon having a Firelock resolved to discharge as he also did, and so far surprised he was that he grew desperate and throwing himself into the River fell a swimming. When I came up with them I understood that they were also fled for fear of being massacred by the Commonalty; upon▪ which I called out to the Chirurgeon that they were honest Men and under the same Circumstances we were ourselves, etc. but could have no answer fro● him. However not willing to leave him so, I went to look out for him, and foun● him among the Reeds half spent, whence I drew him out, and perceiving him to b● in a way of Recovery marched forward along the River; and at last found a Fellow sleeping in a Boat, whom we awakened and compelled to bring us over to the other side: but finding no place of shelter or security we fell down the River, and about ●0 in the forenoon came to a Fishing place called Trosilzen Outzjouge, where we related all what had passed at Astrachan to the Fishers. We would have gone further, but the Russians would not go with us. However I prevailed so far with the Chirurgeon that he was willing rather to go to Sea, than to trust himself to the mercy of the Cosacks. But he was very loath to trust himself in such a small Boat, being well acquainted with the danger by untemperate Winds, inconstant Seasons, and uncertain Tides. I had no more money by me than 7 Rubbels [about 3 lb. Sterl.] and bought a Mug-tent or Pavilion with a loaf of Bread weighing about 10 lb. and with that put off, trusting to the Providence of Almighty GOD, having the advantage of the Tide. After two hours rowing we met 2 Fishers Boats, to whom we related how affairs stood at Astrachan. The Fishers gave us very good words and comfortable Language, promising to assist us in what they might. We rowed as hard as we could, and bore them company to their Fishing place, called Ivanow● Outzjoug, where we met with a Russian Colonel, 2 Captains and 46 Strelitzen, The Colonel's name was Maxim Lopatim, and lay in Garrison at Terky intending for Astrachan, but had not as then heard of the horrid Treason and Rebellion of the Commonalty there, nor so much as of the Attacque and Siege of the Cosacks. He understanding how affairs stood there, resolved to row back with us in the Boat to Terky, and advising the two Captains to do the like who put their Goods aboard, and tacitly left the Strelitzers at Ivanowa Outzoug. Thus we rowed with all ou● might, till we got the Caspian Sea, still keeping near the Bank. After a little rowing we espied a Boat which rowed very hard after us: we also did all we could to outrow them, but they being more expert than we in general, gained room of us, and coming near our boat, one of the Russian Captains jumped over board, and was afterwards taken up by them. All the Arms we had was my Pistol, for the Chirurgeon had thrown his into the Water, when he swum to save himself without Astrachan, as I have already, mentioned. In the Keel or Vessel that followed us were several Fishers, together with the Strelitzers, which were formerly under the Command of those Officers that were with us add left at Ivanowa Outzoug, who it seems so resented the matter that they had declared themselves Cosacks, through disgust that the Officers had not given them warning of the affairs of Astrachan, who probably would have been faithful if they had been so kind as to acquaint them with the matter. In short they closed up with us, took, plundered, bound and brought us back again to the Fishing place, where the Colonel alone had the Liberty to exercise his Devotion in the Church, but we were secured with a strong Guard all the night long.  
ON Thursday the 25 of July they made preparation to bring us up to Astrachan, and about noon we got sight of the Town: and coming to a very convenient place to land at, they went a shore and divided the spoil, which they had taken from us. Being now alone I consulted with the Chirurgeon how that we might easily make out escape being unbound and the Boat only made fast to a half-pike which I could very easily manage. The Chirurgeon intimated the matter to the Colonel, desiring that he would join endeavours with us to get free: but (whether out of fear, or in hopes of better usage at the hands of the Rebels I cannot tell) he forthwith discovers the design, and gave the Rebel's warning to have a care: upon which they set a watch and guarded us so strictly that we could not make our escape. Seeing that our Enterprise proved abortiv and ineffectual, I told the Chirurgeon that I would run a little up the Island and swim over the Water to the Tartars, which I essayed to do, but was followed and taken; yet had that attempt not been in vain if I had not chanced to fall which was no small disadvantage to me: however I betook me to the Water which I found there very shallow, so that they with a little wading fetched me out. But having got me, I cannot express with what cruelty they used me, beating me black and blue, which done, they bound me fast and threw me into the Boat, so rowing up to the Town. By the way the Chirurgeon made a proposal to them that if they would save us alive, they should have 100 Rubbels for my Ransom and 70 for his own. They promised to do their Endeavour for us. In the Evening we arrived at Astrachan where we were brought up before the General of the Cosacs'. I had no clothes about me save only a pair of leathern Breeches, which were full of holes. The General sat at the Gates of the Bishop's Palace erosslegged after the Turkish manner drinking Brandy, and was so drunk that his Eyes rolled in his Read. He asked the Chirurgeon who he was? and what his Function was? which when he knew, gave him his Life, and ordered him to take care of the Cosacs' that were wounded. Afterward he asked, who I was? the Chirurgeon made answer that I was his Companion: he further asked me what I could do; but the Chirurgeon leaving me, I could not return him any answer. The Russian Colonel being examined, was immediately carried up to the top of a Tower called Rooscat, and hurled headlong down. From the same Tower also was the Viceroy, or Waywod, whose name was Ivan Simeunowitz Prosorofski, after many Tortures thrown also praecipitantly from Top to Bottom▪ as also the Vice-Chancelor with all the Officers, of what degree soever they were, either thrown down, or cast into the Water.  
MOST dreadful was this massacre which continued for some time together; but GOD Almighty gave me an undaunted spirit. The Cosac General looking earnestly upon me commanded his Men to give me Brandy, and made me drink off 2 cups one after another, and then gave order to bring me into the Camp: But what became of the 2 Russian Captains I cannot tell. As I passed by to the Camp being put in a Boat that lay next to the Generals, I was espied of a Russian Strelitzer who brought news of my being still alive to Madam Wonderham, the Lieutenant Colonel's Widow. I have already made mention how that among the Dutch Officers that went out with the said Lieutenant Colonel, was one Paul Rudolph his Son in Law who was the only Person that remained alive: feigning himself in such extremity to be a Cosac, for he was well acquainted with their speech and manners. This young Gentleman hearing that I was still alive came to find me out in the Boat; and during this while were whole Boat loads of Men brought into the stream, and throw into the Water, being tied together so that they could not help themselves with swimming. In this posture I lay myself till Friday June 27, expecting every moment my last Catastroph. That day they brought me into a Tower, and tied me so hard, that my blood for want of a natural reflux began to corrupt within my Body. My Arms were pinioned, and my hands made fast behind my Back: my feet also were ●o hard bound that I never expected to have the use of them again. Lying in this Posture and most lamentable state I spent my Time in sighing and groaning. The Chirurgeon of whom we have already spoke came to visit me: I desired them to solicit for my Death, but they ever dissuaded me from it. Yet still I insisted very hard that they would make intercession for me to the General that I might be dispatched, giving them a private reason for that my earnestness. Now. there was a Rule among the Cosacks, that if any came to interceded for a Captiv that he should die himself for him, which the Chirurgeon told me also, yet promised he would adventure himself to the General, and for that time took his leave.  
THIS night I was most barbarously used by the Cosacks, and Gogelats, a People of ukrain so called. And in the mean time was most fearfully vexed with Toads and other vermin that continually ran over my Body and about my head in whole swarms. However I spent my time in prayer as one condemned to die and assured of a speedy Death, of which (I may truly declare) I was not in the lest afraid, only feared that they would hang me up by the Heels, or put me to some such lingering death, with which they continually threatened me.  
ON Saturday the 28 of June came the aforesaid Chirurgeon, and told me that the General had sent for me: and being untied I could hardly stand upright, yet made a shift to hupple after him. Being come in to the presence of the General after a few idle impertinent Questions he asked me bad me go home with the Chirurgeon. From Sunday to Thursday I continued there in house with him, in which time I saw much cruelty committed, some hanging up by the Feet, others with their Feet and hands chopped off left in the open street to shift for themselves, none daring so much as put forth a finger to help them.  
ON Thursday July 3d d I was again taken and carried to the Brink of the River where I expected to part with my Life. But the Cosacks told me, if I would pay the 100 Rubbles, which the Chirurgeon had promised them on my behalf, I might go free: which the Chirurgeon, who against his will feigned himself to be a Cosack, was content to disburse for me, which afterwards I was obliged to repay upon demand, when able.  
ON Sunday I was sent for by the General, who was then a Drinking at the Emperor's Cellar, but nothing of moment passed at that time he being drunk, and forced me to drink off several Bowls of Brandy and Wine after one another, so that I was afraid to displease him, being (as I have elsewhere remembered) very outrageous when drunk; wherefore I took occasion to steal out of his presence.  
Schrickelycke Moordt in't Slod● van ASTRACAN  


A. Haet Slot van Astracan.  
B. Tooren shae●de art Slot.  
C. D. Stade Astracan  
D. D. Basschen overste ●ande T●ora gesmete.  
E. D'Gouvernour Ivan Simennowitz en order Cansetier vande to ren gesmeten  
G. Offeciers van Proseroski ●lendich omgebrackt  
H. Alexe Alexewitz secretaris by de rib●e● op went de soon van c●n Cham u●t Cilan  
I. ●ee Soonen vande Gouvern●ur side Boris 〈◊〉 by de 〈◊〉 op●hangen.  
K. Ge●ngen● does a●le omgebracht sya.  
L. Vluc●ende does Ach●r●alt en god●ot wor●en.  
M. Plaets daer sy de Doode● op malander 〈◊〉  
N. Wrn parsery  
O. De Kerck  
P. Net Gerecht Huys  
Q. Muur vaned Slodt    
On the Wednesday following was the Secretary Alexo Alexowits hung up upon a Fleshhook by the Ribs, and suffered much despightful usage and Torments before he died. The same was done to a Noble man's Son of Gilan. Also two Sons of the Viceroy, Deputy, or Waywod were hung up by the heels, the one being a very hopeful youth of about 16 years of Age, and the other a Child of about 7 or 8 at the most.  
The Day following they were both found alive, and the youngest at the intercession and Mediator of some of Radzins' Minions was taken down, and saved alive, but the eldest was thrown down from the Top of the Tower, whilst still alive, which was the Death his Father suffered.  
The same day I had News how that Christian Brand one of my Men was still alive, and was constrained to feign himself as Cosac.  
On the 20th of July the Cosac General Radzin departed with an infinite number of small Shipping and several Thousands of Men, drawing 20 Men out of each Company to serve for the Garrison at Astrachan and left there 2 Governors of equal Command and Power, the one being a Cosac, and the other a Russ.  
ON the 2 of August began a New Massacre continuing for several days together, where takeing one day with another, were 150 Persons killed, sparing neither sex nor Age. For which reason I began to hunt out for a Cave in the Earth where I might save myself in time of need, hearing of nothing but a perpetual and incessant massacre; and a general Lamentation of Parents for their Children, Widows and Orphans for their Husbands and Fathers, and that as well among those who had been instrumental and most forward to let in the Rebels, as others that opposed it; a just reward for their Treachery who had been assistant in the Bloodshed of those who under GOD should have protected them from such dismal Calamities.  
ABOUT this time I dispatched three Letter for Ispahan and had notice how that Christian Brandt was set free. It seems that he was taken for a Persian, having a brown, swarthy complexion, and by such means was spared in the massacre; for all the Dutch were hewn down, or otherwise dispatched, save only L. Fabritius Son in Law to Captain Rudolph.  
ABOUT the same time I had news by the Chirurgeon, how that my Ships-company that betook themselves to flight with the Shallop were run astrand on the Scemkal or Dagestan Coast, a Country butting out against the Caspian Sea.  
ON the 22 of August was much Tyranny committed in the City, and people of all ages massacred. The Chirurgeon after a long soliciting procured a Passport to depart with a Servant to attend him, although not without giving Security for his Return. This gave me likewise opportunity to leave the place under pretext of being his Servant.  
ON Monday in the afternoon being Aug. 25 we left Astrachan and embarked ourselves aboard a Vessel belonging to some Banjan Merchants, who were also pillaged and robbed of all they had.  
ON Tuseday we came to Sea, sailing close by the Coast and to the Southward. We also saw 3 small Vessels, or Barks which endeavoured to keep Company with us. Having passed Settinabo Gora the Wind was flat North, and about the Evening all was calm.  
THE Day following one of the above mentioned Shipping hailed us, and said that they were bound for Terki and came from Astrachan being laden with Salt. We kept them Company along the Coast near the broken Land which is all grown over with huge tall Reeds: we had 11 and 12 Foot Water. At night one of those Vessels strayed about a Cannon shot from us: and the next morning 2 Barks made up towards us and gave Fire, without doing any Execution: But when they came near us the cowardly Banians fell upon their knees and begged their Lives. In each Boat were 9 Persons and aboard of us were 46, some Persians, Tartars and Bouchars, but most Banians. Coming to board us they plundered all to our very Provision. I had about 8 Rubbles in Money and my Seal-ring which had been once already redeemed from the Cosacs'. This Ring with the Money I gave to the Chirurgeon; but they threatening to put him to the Torture when it came to his turn to be pillaged; he confessed all and delivered up the Money and Ring, besides 4 double Ducats of his own: but found an opportunity to hide 52 Ducats more after an especial manner about his Body.  
WHEN the Cosacks had taken all and pillaged us of what they could find, they held a certain sort of a Council among themselves what they should do with us. At last it was resolved after a long debate, that we should be saved alive but turned off to Sea, with charge not to come anigh the Coast any more, upon pain of being thrown over board if they came to take us again.  
UPON this they left us, and gave us opportunity to make use of the Wind, which was Westerly, and about the Evening with a brisk Gale, and a dark moon we set sail and bore up to the Sea.  
BUT after we had sailed about 2 Leagues the Wether began to be somewhat boisterous, so that we were fain to put in at a small Creek of an Island, where we lay at Anchor till Saturday following; at what time the Wether growing more calm and temperate we weighed and bore up again to the Coast, where we immediately descried 2 Barks that made up to us, and at last came close by the board. The Chirurgeon and I had taken our last Farewell of each other, expecting nothing more than Death. In short, they fell a plundering us, and I to pass for a Banjan had anointed myself with Black tempered with Grease, and tied a Handhercheif about my Head, but it was so botchingly done that they found occasion to ask the Chirurgeon, what for a Black Devil that I was? In the mean while they searched very close for Bread and Provision which I seeing pointed to my mouth, whereupon they were so merciful as to return me a part of the Provision back again. Two Degestan Merchants were thrown over board and the Chirurgeon who passed for a Pole was most severely beat. They threatened that if they met us again near the Coa● that we should have no Mercy at their hands. Meanwhile I had lost my little Compass, so that we had no other help in directing our Course, than only the Sun and North-star. Towards the Evening it began to blow hard again and the Pirates left us, bearing up close to the Coast. The Surgeon had again hid his Gold in a place where they did not once make search for it.  
THE Wind continued hard till Thursday following, blowing mostly from Northw. and by N. and now changed again into W. N. W. which was good and favourable for us; but the Banians would in no wise give their consent that we should weigh Anchor, for that they thought it too high and boisterous.  
BUT on Saturday the Wind continuing still in the same point, we weighed, and with a fresh Gale steered away South and by West; and soon after descried a small Vessel riding at Anchor, being one of those that left Astrachan with us: those aboard were Persians and had the luck to escape the Cosacks, keeping off at Sea. When they saw who we were, they weighed and kept us company. Towards the Evening the Wind blue North-East, and I found that we had sailed too much Westerly, I pressed hard that we should alter our course, but could not praevail with them to steer another way: so that in the Morning we found ourselves close to the Coast, and had the Wind at East and by N. With this sort of Shipping it is very difficult to steer without 12 points of the Compass Wind to their advantage.  
HOWEVER we thought good to keep close to the Coast, but towards the Evening it growing calm we rowed off to the Seaward and lost the other Vessel. Meanwhile we began to be distressed for want of Provision, and fed of the crumbs of moldy Bread: and the greatest part of the Company had no more to eat. But the Banjans were best provided, and imparted to us such as they had.  
INTERIM, the Wind came about East, and E. and by S. so that we were constrained to drop Anchor, and so to ride three days at half a fathom Water. Yet growing calmer we ever now and then rowed a little. But having spent all our ●ood were at a great loss for Fuel to bake bread, of that little quantity of Meal which the Banians had left: and were fain at last to cut up some parts of the Ship ●r Chips, which stood us in very good stead. The Wind than continued Easterly and we steered as far Southerly as we could, till on the 10 th'. of September towards the Evening we came to a good place of Anchorage, near the Coast, of 5 Foot water, where I stepped ashore to seek up some Wood and Herbs, or what else I thought might be serviceable to us on our Voyage.  
ON Thursday being the 11 th'. of September we sailed close by the Coast which we kept in sight till Saturday following, when as the Banians, a poor and helpless People not able to endure such hardship, pressed very hard that we should put ashore, which out of mere pity we were willing to do, being all wet and very cold.  
MEANWHILE we were set upon by a party of Cosacks, who now the third time plundered us: but the Chirurgeon not having time nor the conveniency to hide his Ducats as before, digged a hole and hid them in the Sand, and threw down his Musket about the same place for a token to find them again. I also being afraid, ●an and hid myself among the Reeds; but they making a very narrow scrutiny ●ound me out: and having by me a Psalmbook found that passage or Title of a Psalm, where David is said to have feigned himself mad before the Philistines to escape them, I resolved to do the like, by which means I escaped. When they had me they disputed what Countryman I was, and some of them said I was a Dutchman: but others said I was a Georgian, and to my Happiness the latter swayed it. However (not without wounding and killing of some of our Company they let us go, and themselves departed from us: which the Chirurgeon seeing went and after much seeking found his Gold.  
ON the 20 of September it was very good Wether; we therefore made ready to set sail. About noon being under sail we saw about 30 Tartars on the Strand who called out to us that we should come ashore: This unwelcome summons mainly added to our fear; insomuch that one of the Banians ran ashore and fell down upon his Knees. The Boat was drawn ashore, and after they had consulted a little together what they should do with us they demanded Ransom, which was agreed upon for 3 Rubbles each Man. They were Circas and Nagayan Tartars, and accepted of one of the Banians for a Pledge till the Ransom was paid. We went about two Miles with them and left our Vessel behind us. I had with me a little Coffer of Books which I carried along with me; and was fain to trudge a foot without either Shoes or Stockings through Thistles and Brambles, insomuch that my Feet were all blistered and bloody. Towards the Evening we came in a Bay where their Shipping lay. Here I met with an Armenian whom I had formerly known at Astrachan who treated me very kindly, as also my Companion the Chirurgeon: but we having in so long a time not eaten any thing which was fitting for human food, did Anatomize what was set before us at such that the Armenian observing it, thought good to take away before we had half satisfied ourappetite for fear we should surfeit ourselves.  
HERE we tarried three Days, waiting for a good Wind to go for Tarku, but that not falling out in this time are determined rather to go by land than to stay there Wind-bound, it being not above a Days Journey, yet very perilous for the Tartars who continually lay in wait for distressed, and stranded Passengers, in these unhappy Proceedings of the Cosacks, who made the Caspian Sea very unsafe to sail.  
ON Tuseday being the 30 of September we set forward, and after a very tedious Days Travel through Boggs and Marshes we got to a Village inhabited by Nagaya● Tartars: where we took up our night's rest in the Circas Quarter. Here we met with a Friend of the Surgeons, whom we offered 8 Ducats to conduct us to Derbent, which he undertook to do. Here I spoke also with Ivan Turken Agent to his Imperial Majesty, who was a Turk born, but a Russian Proselyte, and had a Brother at M●scöu who was of the Reformed Religion and an intimate Friend of mine. This said Gentleman entreated me to stay longer at Terku, but I declined their kind offer yet was fain to accept of it for 2 Days having so charged and overloaden my stomach with eating that I fell sick upon it.  
ON the 6th. of October we set forward for Derbent in company with the Banians. Now by the way you are to note that every day we suffered such hunger, a Man's ransom was thrown into the water, which the superstitious Banians hold for a special act of Piety and a Religious Injunction. By the way we met some Thousand of Tartars, for whom we were not a little afraid, they being Nagayans and noted Plagiaries.  
AFTER three days travel we came to a Village called Andre Dereefad which was subject to one Chapelle, a Tartarian Prince. We stayed here till Monday following being the seventh of October. Here I happened to spy a Persian who had my Plush-Coat on, which he said he had bought at Terku. The Fur or Lining cost me thirty five Rubbles at Muscou; and the Persian was willing to sell it me again for five or six Rubbles, but I could not accomplish so much Money as to purchase it. Here we also came to understand that my Ships-folk who fled in a Challop were stranded and taken slaves.  
ON Thursday the tenth ditto, we came into Terku, where we had two Armenians for our Friends; these also brought me to one of their Acquaintance for Protection, where I was advised to keep myself very private, being a free Prize for the Tartars. Here we also found Lewis Faber of whom I have already made mention, as also Christian Brand one of my Ships-folk; who left Astrachan three Weeks after us, and had been eight Days at Terku.  
ON the thirteenth we left Terku, and hired a person for eight Ducats to conduct us to Derbent.  
ON the seventeenth we passed by Boynak, where I understood some of our Men were in slavery, I sent our Conduct up to the Town (not daring appear there my self) with Letters to advise them to persist in the Christian Faith, if they were pressed upon to embrace Mahometanism with promise of doing my best to procure their Redemption. But my Squire the Courier, thought good to give us the Bag, having already got his Money in hand, nor did I ever hear a word from them, althô I gave them directions how to write to me at Derbent. However when I arrived there I found Cornelius de Vries, who had been my Gunner; and one Peter Arentsz of Sceveling, who gave me a perfect account of the Ships-Company, how they were taken Slaves, and whither they were carried, etc.  
WE solicited by the Sultan of Derbent for the Redemption of our Men, who was pleased to dispatch Letters on that behalf to the Prince of the Calmuc-Tartars; but having sent two Posts, and all to no purpose or effect, I went to tender my thanks to the Sultan for his Civility and Endeavours; to which he replied, That he was sorry he could not prevail with the Tartars to answer my. Desire, yet was willing to do us any kindness that lay in his power, if we could imagine any mean whereby they might procure their Liberty, etc. I insisted further to have some Horses for our use on the Journey which he granted; but there was none to be had in all the Town, the Caravan being but newly set forward for Scamachy. Yet finding another ready to depart, the Seamen went afoot in company of the Caravan. I supplied them also with necessary Provisions, and told them that I would stay a day, or two longer, to see if I could get some Horses and then follow them. But it was in vain, for I could not get any, wherefore I followed the Caravan and coming at Scabran. which is reckoned the half way, we were informed that there were several Hackneys in the Town, which we hired.  
ON the twenty ninth we arrived at Scamachi: where we found John Struys our Sail-Maker, who was bought by a Polish Ambassador, whose Assistance I desired in an Address to the Chan; 'tis true he seemed willing to do us such a favour if it could have been done without much Trouble. Here I delivered a Request to the Chan, and had Audience, wherein I made a plain demonstration of the Injury our Men suffered by the Calmucs, etc. He promised me to do his best for them, but all was to no purpose, so that I was fain to take up seventy five Abbess upon security of a Banian Merchant, which was to be paid at Ispahan within seven Weeks time and twenty five Abbess Use, or Interest; but in case of failure of payment in Ispahan, to be paid at Scamachy within three Months with fifty Abbess Interest; the Chirurgeon being my security. Here I also reckoned with the Chirurgeon, and gave him an Obligation under my hand for what I had received of him, as also for what he remained security for me at Scamachy.  
ON the fifteenth I left Scamachy having with me Cornelius the Gunner. P. Arentsz stayed with the Chirurgeon, and J. Struys, L. Fabritius and Christian Brand with the Polish Envoy.  
I had very much difficulty by the way to come to Ispahan, yet by the Providence of Almighty God arrived here the tenth of March, and have Residence for the time, in the Dutch Lodge: where I find Sr. Frederic Bent Precedent for the East-India Company, to whom, as well as the Gentlemen his Assistants, I am infinitely obliged to for many Civilities shown me. Cornelius the Gunner they have sent away for Gameron. I also caused J. Struys and the said Gunner, with another Foremast Man to sign a Declaration how they fled away from Astrachan and left me and the Master ashore.  
SIR, I have not else to write, but fearing by this prolixity to have tired your Patience, I cease to be more tedious, and commit you to the Protection of the Most High GOD, who that he would in Mercy vouchsafe us a happy meeting is the only and hearty Prayer, of  
SIR, Your obedient Servitor, DAVID BUTLER.   

A TABLE Of The Names and most remarkable Things contained in the three Voyages of JOHN STRUYS.  


A.  
A· Mrack, what it is. 54.  
Animosities in Astrachan. 193.  
S. Anthony, how the Russians say he came to Novogorod. 123.  
Ararat, its Situation and description, & seqq. 214,  
Araxes [flu.] described.  
Ardebil a City in Persia described.  
Argentero. 74.  
Argoftoli, a good Harbour. 98.  
Arno [flu.] 68  
Ascension Island. 3●8.  
Asshur, a Festival Day among the Persians celebrated in memory of Hosseyn with a solemn Procession. 263.  
Astrachan, it's Situation and Description. 177, & seqq.  
Astypalaea, see Stampalia.  
An Attestation given the Author by a Hermit upon Mount Ararat. 216.  
Auricular Confession in the Russian Church. 154  
Ausere [flu.] 68    


B.  
BAchal, a Town in Media. 238.  
Bachu, a place famous for Steel and Iron work. 280  
Bairam, or Biram deal Carban, the Paschal Feast of the Persians. 305  
Banjans, their Superstition. 275.  
Baptism among the Russians. 153.  
Baronez, a strange kind of Fruit found near Astrachan. 180.  
Basilius (Imp.) first Establisher of the Christian Religion in Moscovia. 151.  
Baths, why used in Moscovia. 147.  
In Persia. 212.  
The Bath of Tenos, where the Heathens were wont to wash before they entered the Temples. 111.  
Battoki, a form of Punishment in Moscovia. 156.  
Bears and Wolus affrighted with Fire. 119.  
A strange Passage of a hungry Bear. 121.  
Wonderful boldness of Bears ibid.  
Bear-baiting in Moscovia. 129.  
Beleasar. 136.  
The greatest Bell in the World at Moscou, with an account of its weight & Dimensions. 134.  
Bernardo Bragadino his admirable Courage in an Engagement against the Turks 86,  
Bethzyrvan, Mountains in Persia. 283.  
Biloege, the Fish whereof Caviar is made. 199.  
Boam Vista [insul.] Situation and Description. 5.  
Bocharen, a Place affoarding great plenty of Furs. 223.  
Bochdan, the Ambassador for the King of Poland, his ill deportment at Scamachi, desires to become Turk, etc. 244, & seqq. His churlishness to the Author, ibid.  
Asks his advice if he might go for Holland by the consent of the East-India Company their Directors. 246.  
Boghze Dome, a Place appointed for Burial of unsanctified Russes. 150.  
Boldea the Haven of Riga. 115.  
Bologne, a City in Italy resembling a Ship. 72.  
Bonzi of Syam their Office, Habit, etc. 35.  
Bottarge, a delicate Dish prepared at Corfu, made of the Roes of Sturgeon, 97.  
Also at Xante. 99  
Bouchadde, Tenedos so called by the Turks. 91.  
Bouchourt, see Trachana.  
Boynak a Town in Tartary. 108.  
Brak, the Author's Companion sold by the Semkal-Tartars for 3 years, and then by Reversion to return to his first Patron, 234.  
His Wife ravished by the Tartars in presence of the Company, 210.  
She becomes the Prince of Scemkals Concubine, 234.  
She hinders her husband for going away, ibid.  
He goes away privately, and was never heard of since, ibid.  
Butriato, a famous place for Fishing. 97.    


C.  
CAback [vide Kaback]  
Cabo Verdo Islands. 5. & seqq.  
Caffers, th' Inhabitants of Sierra Liones so called. 9  
Calmuc Tartars an ugly People. 174. described. ibid.  
Cambodiers several of them taken in a Junk, freighted with prohibited Goods, and by the Loving Kindness of the Hollanders, turned adrift in a Boat without Rudder, Sail, Oars or Provision, being but 40. Dutch Leagues from Land. 45.  
The same Junk perishes upon the Rocks, before the Fort Zelandia. 55.  
Candia, described. 100 & seqq.  
Caspian Sea described. 122, 224.  
Caswin a famous Town formerly the Royal Seat of the Kings of Persia. 304.  
Caviar, whereof made, 199.  
Used in stead of Butter, during the Fast in Moscovia. ibid.  
Casan, a City and Country in Russia, described. 177, & seqq. 166.  
Cephalonia [Insul.] 98.  
Cerigo, an Island lying about 13 Dutch leagues from Candia. 99, 100  
Chalse Schuran, or Dipping of the Cross, a Ceremony used by the Armenians. 248.  
Children, put to death at Madagascar, and why. 19  
Chioggio, a City in Italy opposite to Venice famous for Fishing and Gardens. 73.  
Chrysolodos, his Tomb in the Isle of Pathmos. 79.  
Churches, in the City Moscou computed to be in number above 1700. 135.  
Circas Tartars the Bounds of their Country, 204.  
Their Persons described, ibid.  
The Women great beauties, ibid.  
Go with naked Breasts, 205.  
Their emulation in Habit, and freedom to converse with Strangers, ibid.  
The Religion of the Circas Tartars and their Idolatry, ibid.  
Their Funerals. 206.  
Circumcision used at Madagascar. 21.  
Cochino, formerly called Ephestias and then the chief Town of Lemnos. 91.  
Colomna, a beautiful Village in Moscovia. 125, 158.  
Communion in the Russian Church, how, 154.  
Condea a Town in Lemnos. 91.  
Congo, a good Corpse du Garde and Lantern for the Christians to enter the Archipelago. 100  
Corfu, an Island of great strength. 96.  
Cosac Krim, an exceeding high Mountain. 173.  
Cosacks, their Division and Limits. 183.  
Cothany, a Town in Media. 238.  
Crap, a Root used in Dying. 222.  
Crim or Cerem Tartars, their Customs, Nature and Idolatry, 163.  
Ceremonies about the Dead, usual Habits and Marriages. 164.  
Crocodiles used for Medicine at Syam. 29.  
Cusmademianski, a City upon the Wolga,  
Czar of Moscovy sends to Amsterdam, for Seamen. 114.  
Whence and Why he is called Czaar, 155.  
His Power and Sovereignty, ibid.  
His Title, ibid.  
His Revenues and strictness of Justice. 156.    


D.  
DAgestan a Country of the Tartars subject to several Princes and Lords. 210.  
Dagestan Tartars why so called, 2●7.  
The nature, form, and way of Living of the Inhabitants, ibid., & seqq.  
More merciful than the Calmucs. 234.  
Date-Trees how procreated. 341.  
Delos, an Island in the Aegean Sea famous for the many Temples and Relics of Heathenish Antiquities. 110.  
Den Duyvel van TAYOVAN, an Animal in Formosa, so called by the Hollanders. 56.  
Derbent, the Key of Persia on the Hyrcan Sea. 225.  
The Ruins and Relics of the Walls thereof built by Alexander the Great. 226.  
Watch Towers and great Slave-market at Derbent. 227.  
Slaves unkindly used at Derbent. 228.  
Diana Manans, an imagined Deity among the Madagascars.  
Dick Kop, A small Fish of a wonderful strength. 225.  
Don a River, formerly Tanais, whence the Don Cosacks, runs not into the Wolga according to the vulgar opinion. 194.  
Dwino, 136.  
Dydenof, a Town and Wharf on the Volga. 158.    


E.  
Earthquakes frequent at Xante, 99  
Zantotini, 107.  
2 great Earthquakes at Zantorini, ibid.  
Several Earthquakes at Scamachi, where by one 80000 Men were destroyed, Mountains and Villages removed, etc. 240.  
Easter, how celebrated by the Moscovians. 158.  
Elephants used for Executioners at Syam, 47.  
Served in Gold, 32.  
Wars about the white Elephant. 33.  
A merry passage about an Elephant. 63.  
Embro [insul.]  
The English take Saint Helena, 355.  
And the Ship Europa, a Dutch East-India Ship, ibid.  
Also the Admiral and Vice-Admiral. 358.  
Enkurekan, a venomous creature like a spider, but bigger than a mouse. 311.  
Epiphany celebrated by the Armenian Christians at Ispahan. 325.  
Ervan or Urwan, a City under Mount Ararat in Armenia. 213.    


F.  
FAsts, four solemn Fasts in the year in Russia, and the great Profaneness therein committed. 154.  
Ferrara, a Town in Italy. 73.  
Firando in Japon. 59  
Flax, a great Commodity in Moscovia. 135.  
Formosa [Insul.] its Situation, Clime and Circumference, 55.  
Fertility and Products, ibid.  
Form and complexion of the Inhabitants, 56.57.  
A Man with a Tail burned at Formosa. ibid.  
Habit of Men and Women there. 58.  
Furs, a great Profit to the Great Duke of Moscovia. 138.    


G.  
GAmeron, or Bendar in Persia described. 349.  
Garlic and Onions much used in Russia 137.  
Garrisenda, a Tower in Bologne built crooked for a Proof of Art. 72.  
Genua described. 3.  
Gilan an eminent place for Silk. 223.  
The Bay of Gilan its compass. 224.  
Greece described. 92.  
Custom and usual Attire of the Inhabitants. 92, 93.  
Grotta Sibylla. 70.    


H.  
HAdzi Biram Aly, a rich Merchant in Persia buys the Author. 229.  
The Author saves him from drowning. ibid.  
His great kindness to the Author. 230.  
Hardiness of the Russians in extremities. 137, 138.  
Hares, in great abundance about Cothany. 238  
St. Helena (Insul) 63.  
Hemp, a main Product and the staple Commodity in Moscovia. 301.  
Haet Hups te Gennip, the Ship on board of which the Author was in great danger. 66.  
Honey, found in great plenty at Milo, 111.  
And in Moscovia. 135.  
Hosleyn, a Persian Saint and Second Son to Aly a Feast celebrated to the memory of him. 263  
Hunting, a main exercise in Formosa. 59    


I.  
St JAge [Insul,] Situation, 6. and Description 7.  
Japoneezes their Form, Nature, Habit and Customs, etc. 62.  
Ilha del Fuego. 7.  
Ilha de Brava. 8.  
Indrapoura Insul.] 24.  
Ispahan described. 315.  
Judia the chief City of Syam described. 27.    


K.  
Kabacks' ', Alehouses or Taverns in Moscovia, farmed of the Emperor. 156.  
Kabelang, a Province in Formosa. 58.  
Kaliklefthan. 252.  
Kamuschincha, a Russian Town taken in by Craft of Radzin. 193.  
Kasschan, its Situation and Description. 310.  
A Key made of an Emerald, shown in a Church at Genua. 4.  
Keydar Peyamber, a very high Mountain in Persia. 301.  
Kieselarsche Kolthre. 201.  
Kissel-bassched; the Soldiery so called at Derbent, their unruly and ill temper. 2●9.  
Kisiloseyn, a swift River in Persia. 299.  
Knutter, a form of Punishment in Russia. 156.  
Kostar, a great River running through the Mountains of Elbur. 236.  
Koctep, a village in Persia. ibid.    


L.  
LAzaro Mocenigo fights the Argerines', Tripoleezes, etc. 103.  
Killed. 105.  
Laar, or Lar, a City in Persia described. 246.  
Leghorn described. 67.  
Lemnos, attacked by the Venetians and surrendered upon Articles, 92.  
Described. ibid.  
Lifelanders, their Properties, Habits and Customs. 127.  
Lindentree its ' manifold use. 165.  
A List of the Head-Officers in the Venetian Navy as they were engaged against the Turks. 83.  
Lorenzo Marcello General of than Venetians killed. 88    


M.  
MAdagascar; Situation of the Island. 15.  
Customs of the Inhabitants, 19  
Their Marriages, 18.  
Funerals. 19  
Religion, Superstitions, 21.  
Government. 22.  
An odd passage, where a Dutch Captain meets with a King of that Country who had formerly been his Slave. 13.  
Fertility of Madagascar. ibid.  
Majo [Insul] Situation and Description. 6.  
Malefactors, how punished in Moscovia 156.  
Malhora, a rock near Leghorn. 67.  
Marco Bembo Admiral of the Ships of war in the Venetian Armade hotly engaged with the Turks; 80.  
Takes the Capitana; 89.  
Killed. 105.  
Mares-milk in great esteem by the Tartars. 182.  
Marriages of the Madagascars, 18  
Of the Syammers, 39  
Of the Moscovians. 131, & seqq.  
Merchants, eight murdered in a Wood of Moscovia 126.  
Metellino, see Mytelene.  
Meynderts' Island. 203.  
Middleton, an English Ship engaged with a Fleet of Turkish Galleys, against which she valiantly defends herself. 79.  
Milo [Insul.] 74 75.  
Eminent for able Seamen and Fishers, 111.  
The prime place to Water at. ibid.  
Mochan, or Mokan, a great Heath in Persia, dangerous for Robbers. 283.  
Moscou described. 130.  
Mulberry Trees in great plenty at Tenos. 111.  
Mummay Kobas, a most costly Balsem proceeding out of a Rock. 262.  
Murderers delivered over to the Friends of the murdered Party in Persia. 262.  
Muskar, a City in Media. 237.  
Muskettos, many of those Flies in Lifeland.  
Mytilene, an Island in possession of the Turks. 76.  
A bold Attempt of the Author and his Company to fetch off cattle from Mytilene. ibid.  
A description of that Island. 109.    


N.  
NAchay, a little Fish of a wonderful strength. 225.  
Nagayan and Crim Tartars described. 181.  
Nanguesaque, or Nanguesaky, a City in Japon, built by the Portugueezes. 60.  
Merchandise and Traffic of that Place, ibid.  
A great Hurricane that happened there, ibid.  
Situation and Description of Nanguesaky. 61.  
Naphtha, an oil running out of Rocks, how got. 237, 238.  
Napoli di Malvazia attacked by the Venetians. 106.  
Natens a City in Persia. 312.  
Naurus, see New years day. 257.  
Naysobath, a fair village in Schirwan, or Old Media, where the Holsteyn Ambassadors suffered Shipwreck. 237.  
Necromancy, much practised in Lifeland. 117.  
New years day celebrated by the Persians. 257.  
Nicsia, an Island famous for the Temple of Apollo, w●ose Ruins still appear. 100LS.  
Nieu meulen [oppid.] 1●6.  
Nisen-Novogored. 161.  
Nisobath, [see Naysobath]  
Noah's Sepulchre. 332.  
Novogorod described. 123.    


O.  
OEtsjoege. 199.  
Onions and Garlic much eaten in Russia. 137.  
The great Orchard near Tzurbag, how planted, 213.  
Variety of fruit therein. ibid.  
Oron, the Primo Vizier comes down to see Engagement between the Venetian and Ottoman Armada. 104.  
Osmin, a Province and Dominion of the Tartars. 210.  
Their manner of choosing a Prince or Protector. ibid.  
The Author and his Company taken, hardly used, made Slaves and brought to the Prince of Osmin. 210, 211.  
Taxed for Cosacs' and Radzinists. 212.    


P.  
PAdar, the Inhabitants of Koctep in Persia so called, much addicted to stealing. 237.  
Pagods of Syam. 35, 36.  
Liberality of the Syamers to the Pagods and Bonzi. ibid.  
Palm-Sunday how celebrated by the Russians. 157.  
Palso Castro a Town in Lemnos. 92.  
Paniegros a Polish Nobleman murdered in his Bed. 243.  
Parmach, or Barmach, a Mountain where they get Naphtha, or Petroleum. 237.  
Patany assists the King of Syam against Ava. 33.  
Pathmos, the City and Island. 93.  
Patriarch of Moscovia, his Office, Power, Habit, etc. 152.  
Peace, how treated upon and ratified by the Kings of Madagascar. 23.  
Pelicans in great abundance about the Caspian Sea. 201.  
Persepolis. 332: & seqq.  
Petroleum, see Naphtha.  
Petzora, a montanous Country in Russia. 136.  
Pitsiora in Lifeland described.  
Pisa described. 68  
Pletskow in Lifeland described. 121:  
A shankbone of a giant to be seen at Pletskow. 122.  
Po [flu.] 73.  
Pochmelie, a Russian Dish. 1●9.  
Poddowodda, what it is. 122.  
Polygamy allowed at Madagascar, 18.  
In Syam, 40.  
By the Crim-Tartars. 164.  
Porto de Canisos. 5.  
de Ribeirra Corea. ibid.  
de Pray. ibid.  
Prattelino, a famous Palace in Florence. 69.    


Q.  
QUas, a Russian Liquor. 139.    


R.  
RAdzin, his Offspring, 183.  
The Reason of his Rebellion, 184.  
The first Insolences he committed, ibid.  
His Treachery and Cruelty on the Confines of Persia, 185.  
He submits and obtains pardon from the Czar, 186.  
Throws a Persian Princess into the Wolga, 187.  
His strictness and Punishment of Adultery, 188.  
Returns back for Don, 189.  
The Russians that follow him are demanded by the Governor of Astrachan, ibid.  
Which he refuses to send back. 190.  
He gains the Astrachan Fleet by Treachery, 191.  
His Power and Aw, ibid.  
His cruelty when drunk ibid.  
The Increase of his Army, ibid.  
He refuses the Title of King, 192.  
Sends Legates to the King of Persia, and their ill success, ibid.  
Sends out Emmissaries into several Towns upon the Volga, 193.  
Increases his Fleet and Army, ibid.  
Takes in Kamuschinka by craft.  
Revenues of the King of Syam, 34.  
Of the Czar of Moscovia. 156.  
Rheno [flu.] 72.  
Rhesan a fertile Province in Moscovia. 136.  
Riga described.  
Rostof, 136.  
Russes, their Form, Nature and Properties, 138.  
Their Diet and usual Drink, 139.  
Their Beastliness when drunk. 140.  
Their great esteem of Brandy and Tobacco, ibid.  
Addicted to Calumny and Jars, ibid.  
Their usual Habit, Painting or staining of the Face in practice among the Female kind, 141.  
The Marriages of the Gentry, ibid., & seqq.  
Of the Pesantry, 145.  
And of the Clergy. 153.  
Their Divorcements and the occasion of the same, 146.  
Their Superstitious opinion about cleanness and uncleanness; 146, 147.  
Of their Baths and Hardiness, ibid.  
Their Peculiar Actions, Gestures and Customs of the Russians from other People, 148.  
Of the Visitation of their sick. ibid.  
Ceremonies about their Dead, 149.  
And the manner of their Funerals, 150.  
Of their Religion and Church Government, 151.    


S.  
SAbaksar. 165.  
Sakky, a Liquor used in Japon. 60.  
Samos, an Island in the Archipelago, 93.  
Two Prizes taken there from the Turks, ibid.  
The Author and 6 more there taken and made Slaves. 94.  
Sariol Kurgan, a Mountain famous for the Sepulchre of an Emperor and 70 Kings. 173.  
Sattiry Boggere, an Island at the Mouth of the Wolga taken in by the Cosac- Rebels. 173.  
The Rebels erect there a Watch-Tower. 185.  
Sauceages of Bologne how made. 72.  
Savona [flu.] 72.  
Scabaran a Cape in the Caspian Sea. 224.  
Item a City in Media, famous for Rice. 237.  
Scalimene, Lemnos so called. 91.  
Scamachi, or Sumahi, a famous Mart in Media its Situation, 238.  
Described, 239.  
Very subject to Earthquakes, ibid.  
Scirwan an eminent Place for great plenty of Silk. 2●3.  
Scorpions very annoysom at Kaschan. 311.  
Scyro [Insul.] 110.  
Sierlan, an Island. 203.  
Sierras, or Scyras described. 331.  
Skorodom, a part of Moscou so called. 135.  
Slave market at Ervan, 213.  
At Derbent. 238.  
Slaves, how unjustly used by the Turks, 80.  
How used at Derbent, 228.  
And in Moscovia. 138.  
Smeriglio, a blackstone of great esteem, found at Nicsia. 109.  
Smiowa, a Mountain, 173.  
Smolensko, 136.  
Spoon meat much used in Russia. 137.  
Stampalia, or Astypalaea one of the Cyclid Islands. 109.  
Standia the Rendezvous of the Venetians. 103.  
Stariza, taken in by the Cosacks, and 1200 Soldiers killed 194.  
Stenko [or Stephen] Radzin, see Radzin.  
Storm at Sea near Xante. 74.  
Sultan of Derbent very favourable to the Hollanders. 233.  
Sultanie, a famous Town in Persia described  
Swiatki. 166.  
Syberia, a woody Country in Moscovia, famous for Furs, 136.  
The Place of exile for Men that beat their Wives too much. 140.    


T.  
TAfflis, a City in Georgia. 249.  
Taurus' [Monte] 299.  
Teil-tree [see Linden tree]  
Temple of Jerusalem at Moscou. 134.  
Of Apollo, its Ruins. 109.  
Tenedos besieged by the Venetian Armade and surrendered upon Articles. 91.  
Described. ibid.  
Besieged again by the Turks but in vain. 104.  
Tenos, the Castle blown up with its own Powder. 110.  
Terky, a Moscoviam City its Situation and present condition. 203.  
Terra Lemnia, or Sigillata, 92.  
Torstok a River and City in Moscovia. 126.  
Tobacco, coveted by the Russians, 126.  
Forbidden by Proclamation to be smoked. 140.  
Tortoises in great abundance at Balharu in Persia. 283.  
At Ascension Island. 358.  
Trachana and Bouchort two sorts of Bread made at Mytilene, very durable. 109.  
Troy, the Remnant of that famous City. 78.  
The Author taken in a Vineyard near Troy and made slave by the Turks.  
Tweer a City in Moscovia. 126.  
Tzanle, a beautiful Town in Persia. 284.  
Tzawaar, a Place in Persia where every one is to show a Passport. 282.  
Tzornoyar, a City in Russ-Tartary. 176.  
Tzurbag. [oppid.] 203.    


V.  
VIathe, its Sterility but abundance of Furs, Honey, and Fish. 136.  
Volske, a Province in Moscovia rich of Furs. 136.  
Ustioga, a Province in Moscovia, famous for plenty of Fish and cattle. 137.    


W.  
WAter, consecrated by the Armenian Christians. 248.  
Wax a great Commodity in Moscovia. 135.  
Whirlpools in the Caspian Sea. 222.  
Whore-market at Caswin in Persia. 305.  
Wild-geese and Pelicans in great abundance about the Caspian Sea. 201.  
Wolf baiting at Moscou. 129.  
Great multitudes of those Beasts near Colomna in Moscovia, 161.  
Wolmar [oppid.] described. 118, 119.  
Wolodomir, a fertile country in Russia. 136.  
Wood: A Wood in Syberia whose end cannot be found out. 137.    


X.  
XAnte, an Island affoarding great plenty of wine. 74.  
Many Earthquakes on that Island. 99  
Great scarcity of Water. ibid.    


Z.  
ZAntorini, an Island subject to Earthquakes and Meteors. 107.  
Wine very cheap on this Island 107.  
The Author left ashore and in great peril of being taken. ibid.  
Zelandia, a Fort in East-India. 63.  
Zemschi Precaus a Place in Russia where any person that is found Dead is brought and exposed to public view. 150.  
Zide Tzaybrail taken up and canonised after he had been dead 100 years. 215.  
His Sepulchre described. 290.  
The Revenues of the same. 296.  
Zierlan, or Tzierlan an Island on the Caspian Sea. 203.  
Zovaschi a Nest of Turkish Pirates, 107.  
Taken by Lazaro Mocenigo. ibid.     

ERRATA.  
PAg. 117. l. 3. read, and shave all their Hair, except p. 52. l. 12. before. ibid. l. 20. steel. p. 3. l. 27. about. ibid. valleys. 45.18. with. p. 71. l. 20. Gratitude left p. 153. l. 30. for than read thou.  
If any thing else occur that may obscure the sense which (by reason of my absence from the Press) happens in some places, the Reader I hope will either be pleased to pardon, or amend with the Pen, as also the Literal Errors which my leisure at this time will not permit me to rectify.  
NB. The Book-binder may also please to take notice that the Print of the Massacre of Astrachan may be more fitly placed at pag. 373. than before the Narratius, according to the Directions given after the Elenchus, in the fore part of the Book.